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diff --git a/44805-0.txt b/44805-0.txt index 606de45..e4897ac 100644 --- a/44805-0.txt +++ b/44805-0.txt @@ -1,38 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Little Tour In Ireland, by S. Reynolds Hole - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: A Little Tour In Ireland - -Author: S. Reynolds Hole - -Illustrator: John Leech - -Release Date: January 30, 2014 [EBook #44805] -Last Updated: February 28, 2018 - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A LITTLE TOUR IN IRELAND *** - - - - -Produced by David Widger from page images generously -provided by Google Books - - - - - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44805 *** A LITTLE TOUR IN IRELAND @@ -4944,360 +4910,4 @@ FINIS. 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Reynolds Hole </title> @@ -38,45 +39,7 @@ A Little Tour in Ireland, by S. Reynolds Hole </style> </head> <body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Little Tour In Ireland, by S. Reynolds Hole - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: A Little Tour In Ireland - -Author: S. Reynolds Hole - -Illustrator: John Leech - -Release Date: January 30, 2014 [EBook #44805] -Last Updated: February 28, 2018 - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A LITTLE TOUR IN IRELAND *** - - - - -Produced by David Widger from page images generously -provided by Google Books - - - - - - -</pre> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44805 ***</div> <div style="height: 8em;"> <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> @@ -5988,380 +5951,6 @@ FINIS. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> </div> - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's A Little Tour In Ireland, by S. 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-A Little Tour in Ireland, by S. Reynolds Hole
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Little Tour In Ireland, by S. Reynolds Hole
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
-
-
-Title: A Little Tour In Ireland
-
-Author: S. Reynolds Hole
-
-Illustrator: John Leech
-
-Release Date: January 30, 2014 [EBook #44805]
-Last Updated: February 28, 2018
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
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-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A LITTLE TOUR IN IRELAND ***
-
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-Produced by David Widger from page images generously
-provided by Google Books
-
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-</pre>
-
-<div style="height: 8em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h1>
-A LITTLE TOUR IN IRELAND
-</h1>
-<h2>
-By S. Reynolds Hole
-</h2>
-<h4>
-An Oxonian
-</h4>
-<h4>
-(Dean Of Rochester)
-</h4>
-<p>
-<br />
-</p>
-<h3>
-With Illustrations By JOHN LEECH
-</h3>
-<h5>
-“By suffering worn and weary,<br /> But beautiful as some fair angel yet.”
- </h5>
-<h4>
-1892
-</h4>
-<p>
-<br /> <br />
-</p>
-<h3>
-TO THE MEMORY OF JOHN LEECH
-</h3>
-<h4>
-A TRUE ARTIST <br /> A TRUE FRIEND AND A TRUE GENTLEMAN <br /> THIS BOOK
-<br /> WHICH HE MADE A SUCCESS <br /> <br /> IS DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR <br />
-<br /> S. REYNOLDS HOLE
-</h4>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-PREFACE.
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">I</span> have been so often and persuasively asked to republish <i>A Little Tour
-in Ireland</i>, which I wrote as “an Oxonian,” many years ago, at the
-request of my beloved friend and companion, John Leech, and of which only
-one edition has been issued, and that long since exhausted; I have been so
-severely upbraided for “keeping his splendid illustrations locked up in a
-box, and raising the price of the few copies which come into the market,
-to thrice the original cost;” I have been so fully certified, not only by
-hearsay but by my own eyes, that there is little or no perceptible change
-in the scenes, which he drew and I described; and my apprehension, that
-the style in which the book is written might be denounced as unbecoming,
-has been so completely expelled by the amused remonstrance of my friends,
-who insist that gaiety becomes an undergraduate as much as gaiters a Dean;—that
-I can make no further resistance, and only ask that the failings of the
-author may be condoned by the talent of the artist.
-</p>
-<p>
-S. Reynolds Hole.
-</p>
-<p>
-The Deanery,
-</p>
-<p>
-Rochester: 1892.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<p>
-<b>CONTENTS</b>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2H_PREF"> PREFACE. </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0001"> CHAPTER I. PREFATORY. </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0002"> CHAPTER II. TO DUBLIN. </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0003"> CHAPTER III. DUBLIN. </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0004"> CHAPTER IV. FROM DUBLIN TO GALWAY. </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0005"> CHAPTER V. THE FAMINE. </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0006"> CHAPTER VI. FROM GALWAY TO OUGHTERARDE. </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0007"> CHAPTER VII. CONNAMARA. </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0008"> CHAPTER VIII. CLIFDEN. </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0009"> CHAPTER IX. KYLEMORE. </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0010"> CHAPTER X. FROM KYLEMORE TO GALWAY. </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0011"> CHAPTER XI. FROM GALLWAY TO LIMERICK </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0012"> CHAPTER XII. LIMERICK </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0013"> CHAPTER XIII. KILLARNEY. </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0014"> CHAPTER XIV. KILLARNEY </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0015"> CHAPTER XV. KILLARNEY. </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0016"> CHAPTER XVI. FROM KILLARNEY TO GLENGARRIFF </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0017"> CHAPTER XVII. GLENGARRIFF. </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0018"> CHAPTER XVIII. GLENGARRIFF TO CORK </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0019"> CHAPTER XIX. CORK </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0020"> CHAPTER XX. BLARNEY </a>
-</p>
-<p class="toc">
-<a href="#link2HCH0021"> CHAPTER XXI. FROM DUBLIN HOMEWARD </a>
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER I. PREFATORY.
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HERE are two species of Undergraduates, the Fast and the Slow. I am now
-of the former persuasion. Originally, having promised my relations that I
-would take a Double First-Class and most of the principal prizes, I was
-associated with the latter brotherhood, but was soon compelled to secede,
-and to sue for a separation, <i>a mensâ et thoro</i>, their tea-table and
-early rising, on the plea of incompatibility of temper. One young
-gentleman, who described himself as being very elect indeed, candidly told
-me that, unless my sentiments with reference to bitter beer and tobacco
-underwent a material change, he could give me no hope of final happiness;
-and another impeccable party, with a black satin stock and the handiest
-legs in Oxford, felt himself solemnly constrained to mention, that he
-could not regard horse-exercise as at all consistent with a saving faith.
-I spoke of St. George (though I dared not say that I had met him at
-Astley's), of St. Denis, and St. Louis, of the Crusaders, and the Red
-Cross Knight; but he only replied that I was far gone in idolatry, and he
-lent me the biography of the Reverend T. P. Snorker, which, after
-describing that gentleman's conversion at a cock-fight, with the sweet
-experiences of his immaculate life, and instituting a comparison between
-his preaching and that of St. Paul (a trifle in favour of Snorker),
-finally declared him to be an angel, and bade all mankind adore, and
-reverence, and buy his sermons at seven-and-six. When I returned the
-publication, and told him that, though I had been highly entertained, I
-liked the Life of George Herbert better, he called me a hagiologist (a
-term which struck me as being all the more offensive, inasmuch as I had no
-idea of its meaning), 1 and murmured something about “the mark of the
-beast,” whereupon, I regret to confess, that I so far lost my temper as to
-address him with the unclassical epithet of “a young Skunk,” suggesting
-the expediency of his immediate presence at Jericho, and warning him,
-that, if he were not civil, “the beast” might leave a “mark” upon <i>him</i>.
-That very day, I wrote to the butler at home, to send up my pink and tops,
-and “went over to roam” in happier pastures.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 “Egan, in addressing a jury, having exhausted every
-ordinary epithet of abuse, stopt for a word, and then added,
-'this <i>naufrageous</i> ruffian.' When afterwards asked the
-meaning of the word, he confessed he did not know, but
-said; 'he thought it sounded well.'”—Sketches of the Irish
-Bar, vol. i. p. 83.
-</pre>
-<p>
-I find them more healthful also. I find that so far from my perception of
-right and wrong being destroyed, as the disciples of Snorker prophesied,
-by a gallop after the Heythrop hounds, and my appreciation of Thucydides
-being expelled by my morning pipe, I have, mentally and bodily, a better
-tone; and though my former condiscipuli groan when they meet me coming in
-from the chase, as though I were the scarlet lady herself, I still venture
-to appear at chapel, and will back myself to construe the funeral oration
-of Pericles against the ugliest of the lot.
-</p>
-<p>
-Oh, that fox-hunting were the worst enemy to me, a student, for I might be
-a class man still! But I have contracted a habit desperately antagonistic
-to literature,—<i>I am allways falling in love</i>.
-</p>
-<p>
-The moment I see a pretty face, I feel that sort of emotion which Sydney
-Smith used to say the late Bishop of London rejoiced to contemplate in his
-clergy, “a kind of drop-down-deadness.” I cannot walk out, or drive out,
-or ride, or row out, but I am sure to have an attack. I have had as many,
-indeed, as two in one day. With the daughters of Deans and Presidents,
-with visitors, with ladies come in from the country to shop, I am
-perpetually and passionately in love. I don't like it, because there is
-not the most remote probability of my ever exchanging six syllables with
-these objects of my devoted affection, not to mention that they are
-equally beloved by some three or four hundred rivals; but I am powerless
-to oppose; I can't help it. My life is an everlasting “dream of fair
-women:” I know it is a dream, but I cannot waken.
-</p>
-<p>
-Others have roused me, though, and most uncomfortably. I heard a
-Devonshire girl, whom I met at a wedding breakfast, and with whom I
-thought I was progressing favourably, whispering to her neighbour, “This
-tipsy child is becoming a nuisance, and I really must ring for nurse,”
- when I was as sober as Father Mathew, and had whiskers of considerable
-beauty, if viewed in an advantageous light. Still more sadly and recently,
-another “daughter of the gods, divinely fair,” dissipated Love's young
-dream, and sent me forth to a foreign land to forget my sorrows, as,
-indeed, I immediately did.
-</p>
-<p>
-The catastrophe, which caused our happy days in Ireland, befel as follows.
-</p>
-<p>
-“'Twas in the prime of summer time, an evening calm and cool,” that I
-found myself wandering among the shrubberies of ————
-Castle with a most lovely girl. A large picnic party had been enlivened by
-archery and aquatics, and I fancy that the glare of some new targets, and
-the sheen of the “shining river,” had not only dazzled my eyes, but
-likewise had bewildered my brain. In spite of the cooling beverages, the
-cobblers and the cups, I was actuated by an extraordinary liveliness. I
-sang songs for the company, not quite reaching the high notes, but with
-intense feeling, doing all in my power to indicate to the lovely girl that
-she was <i>my</i> Annie Laurie, and that for her I should consider it a
-pleasant gymnastic exercise to expire in a recumbent position. I made
-felicitous alterations in the words, such as, “hazel is her e'e” for
-“dark-blue;” and in the song of “<i>Constance</i>,” instead of “I lay it
-as the <i>rose</i> is laid on some immortal shrine,” I contrived, with
-immense difficulty, and by means of a terrific <i>apoggiatura</i>, to
-substitute the word <i>stephanotis</i> of which I had that morning given
-her a bouquet. But “<i>brevis esse laboro</i>;” we were alone, and I
-resolved to propose. I seized her elbow with both hands, a ridiculous
-position, but I was very nervous, and was about to ask the momentous
-question, when she said with such a tone of gentle pity as took away half
-the pain, “Philip, I am engaged to Lord Evelyn. Shall we go back for
-coffee?” I seconded the motion, but oh, what an amazing period of time we
-seemed to occupy in carrying our proposition out! The first idea which
-presented itself to my mind was suicide, but it met with an unfavourable
-reception; the second, to enlist immediately, and to secure the earliest
-<i>coup-de-soleil</i> possible; the third, to insult Lord Evelyn (the
-beast was at Christ Church, and I knew him), and subsequently to shoot him
-in Port-Meadow. “What right had he,” I asked myself, “to anticipate me,
-and win her heart? I hate these accursed aristocrats, who suck the
-life-blood of the people.”
- </p>
-<p>
-This is the accursed aristocrat who sucks the life-blood of the people!
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0001" id="linkimage-0001"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/026m.jpg" alt="026m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/026.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-At last, we rejoined the party, and found them talking the silliest
-rubbish conceivable, and apparently enjoying the nastiest coffee I ever
-remember to have drunk.
-</p>
-<p>
-That night, and at the witching hour, when men and women tell each other
-everything, (in the strictest confidence), they in their dormitories, and
-we in our smoke-rooms, I revealed my misery to my friend Frank C————,
-who happened happily to be staying with me. Frank has Irish blood in his
-veins, and his first impulse was to have “a crack at the Viscount,” but he
-ultimately took a less truculent view of the case, and suggested brandy
-and water. From this source, and “from the cool cisterns of the midnight
-air,” for we were smoking our cigars out of doors, “our spirits drank
-repose,” and we finally resolved “to banish my regret,” and to replenish
-our sketch-books, by a fortnight's tour in Ireland.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER II. TO DUBLIN.
-</h2>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0002" id="linkimage-0002"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/028m.jpg" alt="028m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/028.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">F</span>ORTHWITH, I put myself into active training, and got into splendid
-condition for doing “justice to Ireland.” I read Moore's Melodies; I
-played Nora Creina upon the flute, not perhaps with that rapidity which is
-usual outside the Peepshows, but with much more expression; I discoursed
-with reapers; I tried to pronounce Drogheda, till I was nearly black in
-the face; I drank whiskey-punch (subsequently discovered to be Hollands);
-I ate Irish stew (a dish never heard of in that country) and I bought the
-sweetest thing in portmanteaus, with drawers, trays, pockets,
-compartments, recesses, straps, and buckles, more than enough to drive
-that traveller mad, who should forget where he had placed his razors. Amid
-these preparations, I am ashamed to state, that I became disgracefully
-oblivious of my little disappointment in the shrubberies, and soon
-realised the Chinese maxim, more truthful than genteel,—“the dog
-that is idle barks at his fleas, but he that is hunting feels them not.”
- Indeed, to make my confession complete, and to descend the staircase of
-inconstancy to the lowest depth of humiliation, I must acknowledge that on
-the day of our departure I fell violently in love at Crewe Station, whence
-my heart was borne away, in the direction of Derby, by the loveliest girl,
-that is to say, one of the loveliest girls, that ever beautified an
-express train.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0003" id="linkimage-0003"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/030m.jpg" alt="030m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/030.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-I begin to fear that my unhappy tendencies to this kind of fierce, but
-fugitive attachment, have not been at all improved by communion with Mr.
-Thomas Moore, and I tremble to find myself listening complacently to the
-fickle philosophies of Marmontel,—“<i>Quand on na pas ce que ion
-aime, il faut aimer ce que l'on a.</i>”
- </p>
-<p>
-“The Rows” of Chester are very picturesque and quaint, but do not make a
-favourable impression upon a giant with a new hat, and, being on the upper
-side of six feet, I was glad to leave them for that pleasant, briny,
-breezy, railway, which takes one, <i>via</i> Conway, to Bangor, and
-thence,—thundering through the Britannia Tube, and just allowing a
-glimpse of Telfords triumph, the Bridge of the Menai, grand and graceful,—over
-drear Anglesea, 1 to Holyhead. And, oh, how glad we were, to find old
-Neptune in his mildest mood, only now and then just raising his shoulders,
-as some good-humoured athlete, who should say, “I'm in the jolliest frame
-of mind, my lads, but I could pitch the biggest of you into the middle of
-next week, any moment, with the most perfect ease.”
- </p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 In the time of the Druids it was called “<i>the Shady
-Island</i>,” and, though no longer umbrageous, the name is not
-altogether inappropriate.
-</pre>
-<p>
-Pleasant it was to pace the broad, clear deck, with perfectly obedient
-legs, and to ask what we could have for dinner, with a real curiosity on
-the subject. Frank C————, not distinguished for
-deeds of naval daring, began, in the joy of his heart, to sing songs of an
-ultra-marine description, alluding to the land with severe disparagement,
-and stigmatising that element as “the dull, tame shore.” I must say, that
-when I heard him chanting,—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Give to me the swelling breeze,
-And white waves heaving high,”
- </pre>
-<p>
-I trembled to think what a change would take place in the keynote of that
-cheery vocalist, and what dismal misereres would ensue, should his rash
-petition be conceded. Happily it was not attended to, and we had but one
-invalid, a lady (the captain very properly put a young man in irons, for
-saying something about no Cyc-lades in these seas); and she, I believe,
-only wanted sympathy and sherry from her husband, who was evidently a
-recent capture, and who administered both these cordials in due
-proportions, first a sip and then a kiss, ever and anon, when he thought
-that no one was looking, taking liberal gulps for his own private
-refreshment.
-</p>
-<p>
-It was very beautiful, as the day declined, to watch the vivid
-phosphorescence of the sea, myriads of those marine glow-worms, whose
-proper names I know not, but who cause this brilliant phenomenon, lighting
-up their tiny lamps. Then the light of “Ireland's eye” (bright and clear,
-though there must be a sty <i>there</i>), seemed to welcome us, blinking
-bonnily; and entering the bay of Dublin, with grateful recollections of
-its haddock, we were safely landed upon Kingstown quay. Forty minutes more
-on the rail, and we reach the city, some of our fellow-passengers having
-only left London that morning, and having travelled from one capital to
-the other in little more than twelve hours.
-</p>
-<p>
-We had our first experience of Ireland proper when, emerging from the
-station at Dublin, we called for an “outside car,” and a son of Nimshi,
-responding in the distance, charged down upon us through a phalanx of
-vehicles, and reached us, I know not how, amid the acrimonious
-observations of his brethren. The first feeling, as we sat on the
-low-backed car, “travelling edgeways,” as Sir Francis Head designates this
-style of transit, was one of extreme insecurity, and though we laughed,
-and made believe that we liked it, we were glad enough to hold on by the
-iron-work until we arrived at Morrisson's. Our account with the charioteer
-was as follows:—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-S. D.
-
-To Driver..........................................16
-
-To small boy, seated at drivers feet,
-whipping the horse, and exciting him with cries of
-“Yap”..............................................06
-
-To man, for holding on our luggage, by
-embracing it with extended arms....................10
-
-Total..................................................30
-</pre>
-<p>
-In the next place, we committed the pious fraud of making a hearty supper
-under pretence of tea, instructing Mark the waiter, very willing and
-active, but with no time for works of supererogation, to brew us a large
-vessel of that beverage (which we never touched), as though it gave a
-dignity to the proceeding, and justified, by its respectable appearance,
-our large potations of <i>Guinness</i>. So we drew on to midnight, and to
-(<i>Ay de mi!</i> Won't my friend with the bandy legs denounce “this
-wine-bibbing book”? ) Irish whiskey. Nevertheless, of Irish whiskey this
-must be said, that, when tastefully arranged, it's a drink for dukes; and
-he who skilleth not to brew it, <i>more Hibernico</i>, may thank me,
-perhaps, for thus instructing him,—<i>Imprimis</i>, to take the
-chill off his tumbler (just as he would air his best bed for a beloved
-friend) by holding it for a few seconds over the hot water; <i>secondly</i>,
-to dissolve three lumps of sugar, medium size, in a small quantity of <i>aqua
-calidissima</i>; <i>thirdly</i>, to pour in the whiskey (<i>Kinahans “LL.</i>”)
-from one of those delightful little decanters, which would make such
-charming adjuncts to a doll's dinner party; <i>fourthly</i>, to fill up
-and drink. Frank suggests a <i>soupçon</i> of lemon; and this was the sole
-point upon which, throughout our tour, we were not quite unanimous!
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER III. DUBLIN.
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE next morning found us, with the indomitable pluck of Englishmen, once
-more upon an outside car, as doggedly determined as two old Whigs never to
-resign our seats. First, we drove to Merrion Square, where we had a call
-to make, and where, each side of the square being numbered alike, we spent
-a good deal of time in pulling at the wrong bells, and in unnecessarily
-evoking several servants, whose easy mission it was to take care of
-“number one.” Of this Square and of St. Stephen's Green we thought that,
-though as to extent and pleasant situation they were quite equal to
-anything in London, the houses themselves were by no means so handsome or
-commodious.
-</p>
-<p>
-The University of Dublin, to us who study among the chapels and the
-cloisters of mediaeval Oxford, does not resemble a university at all, but
-is more like a series of Government offices, or any other spacious public
-buildings.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0004" id="linkimage-0004"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/036m.jpg" alt="036m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/036.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-Why do the porters wear velvet hunting caps? Frank would keep inquiring,
-“where the hounds met” (it was a broiling day early in August), “why they
-didn't have top boots?” &c., &c., &c. The museum is a very
-interesting one; and our cicerone in the cap pointed out the harp of Brian
-Boroimhe—that “Bryan the Brave,” who was so devoted to threshing the
-Danes and music; the enormous antlers of an Irish elk, which placed upon
-wheels would make a glorious outside car, the passengers sitting among the
-tines; eagles, and other native birds, galore; and numberless antiquities
-and curiosities. There were some awful instruments, which we gazed upon
-with intense interest, as being the most cruel shillelaghs we had ever
-seen, until the guide happened to mention that they were “weapons of the
-South-Sea Islanders.”
- </p>
-<p>
-The Chapel of Trinity College, like some in our English Universities, is
-more suggestive of sleep than supplication, gloomy without being solemn,
-and the light dim without being religious. There was a sacrifice of two
-inverted hassocks upon the altar, but the idol of the place, a gigantic
-pulpit, indignantly turned his back on them, and I was not slow to follow
-his example, with a sigh for
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“The good old days, when nought of rich or rare.
-Of bright or beautiful, was deem'd a gift
-Too liberal to Him who giveth all.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Indeed, I felt much more impressed, and inclined to take off my hat in the
-Examination and Dining Halls, as I stood in the pictured presence of Irish
-worthies, and thought of them, and of others not there portrayed, in all
-their young power and promise. I thought of Archbishop <i>Ussher</i>, who,
-a boy of eighteen, contended with Jesuit, Fitz-Symonds, and was designated
-by his opponent as “acatholicorum doctissimus.” I thought of <i>Swift</i>,
-as well I might, having recently read, for the third time, that most
-touching essay on his life and genius from the master hand of Thackeray. 1
-I could cry over that lecture any time; there is so much noble sympathy in
-it of one great genius with another—such a tender yearning not to
-condemn, and, all the while, such a grand, honest resolution to take side
-with what is right and true. I thought of Swift, “wild and witty,” in the
-happiest days of his unhappy life, getting his degree, “<i>speciali gratia</i>”
- (as a most particular favour), and going forth into the world to be a
-disappointed, miserable man—to fight against weapons which himself
-had welded, a hopeless, maddening fight. All must pity, as Johnson and
-Thackeray pity, but who can love? He put on the surplice for mere earthly
-views, and it was to him as the shirt of Hercules!
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 The English Humourists of the Eighteenth Century, three of
-whom, Swift, Steele, and Goldsmith, were Irishmen.
-</pre>
-<p>
-And next (could two men differ more?) of <i>Goldsmith</i>. I thought of
-him shy and silent (for he was a dull boy, we read, and never learned the
-art of conversation), chaffed by his fellow-students, and saluted by them,
-doubtless, in the exuberance of their playful wit, as Demosthenes, Cicero,
-&c., &c., until he might have felt himself, like his own “<i>Traveller</i>”
- </p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Remote, unfriended, melancholy, slow,”
- </pre>
-<p>
-had there not been the “eternal sunshine” of genius, and the manifold soft
-chimes of poesy, to make his heart glad. “He was chastised by his tutor,
-for giving a dance in his room.” (was it a prance <i>à la Spurgeon</i>,
-and for gentlemen only, or was there a brighter presence of “sweet
-girl-graduates with their golden hair?”) “and took the box on his ear so
-much to his heart, that he packed up his all, pawned his books and little
-property, and disappeared from college.” 1 Horace Walpole speaks of him as
-“an inspired idiot,” and Garrick describes him as one
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“for shortness call'd <i>Noll</i>,
-Who wrote like an angel, and talk'd like poor Poll:”
- </pre>
-<p>
-but I take leave to think that the “Deserted Village,” a tale told by this
-idiot, will be read when Walpole is forgotten; and I believe the author to
-have been as deep as Garrick.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Thackeray.
-</pre>
-<p>
-Blessed be the art that can immortalise, as Sir Joshua has immortalised,
-features so sublime and beautiful, because so bright with noble power and
-purpose, as those of <i>Edmund Burke</i>. Scholar, statesman, orator,
-author, linguist, lawyer, earnest worshipper of nature and of art, what a
-mine of purest gold thy genius! and how the coin stamped with the impress
-of thine own true self enriches all the world! “The mind of that man,”
- says Dr. Johnson, “was a perennial stream; no one grudges Burke the first
-place,” and Sir Archibald Alison speaks of him, as “the greatest political
-philosopher, and most far-seeing statesman of modern times.”
- </p>
-<p>
-What a troublous, impressive sight that must have been, when he and Fox,
-both of them in tears, gave up the friendship of five-and-twenty years,
-because they loved each other too well to cry “Peace,” where there was no
-peace.
-</p>
-<p>
-Out of all the grand music he wrote and spoke, let me select one air and
-leave him. And are not his words on Marie Antoinette, like music, martial
-music, “like a glorious roll of drums,” and the sound of a trumpet to
-knightly hearts? “I thought,” he says, “ten thousand swords must have
-leaped from their scabbards, to avenge even a look, which threatened her
-with insult. But the age of chivalry is gone.”
- </p>
-<p>
-But no, I cannot leave him, it would not be honest to leave him, without
-the confession that there was a flaw in the statue, one note of this grand
-instrument out of tune, and that this giant had his weakness. It must be
-sorrowfully owned that he had low and unsound views on the subject of the
-pursuit of game; he said it was “a trivial object with severe sanctions;”
- and his most devoted admirers can never emancipate his memory from the
-stern and sad suspicion, that he could not have been a first-rate shot.
-</p>
-<p>
-I thought of <i>Grattan</i>, who distinguished himself within these walls,—the
-brave unswerving patriot, whose fiery eloquence Moore terms “the very
-music of freedom” (music, by the way, which would very summarily be
-stopped in our day by Mr. Speaker <i>Denison</i>); of <i>Moore</i>
-himself, with his head upon his hands, “sapping” at those Latin verses,
-which he hated with all his heart, ever and anon disgusted to find the
-second syllable of some favourite dactyl <i>long</i>, or the first of some
-pet spondee <i>short</i>; finally (as the chroniclers tell), tearing up
-the performance, and sending to the Dons some English verse in lieu, for
-which, to their glory be it written, they gave him praise and a prize.
-Here, too, he commenced his translation of the Odes of Anacreon, (a labour
-of <i>Love</i>, if ever there was one); and here, doubtless, oft in the
-stilly night, he sang some of those touching melodies, which were so soon
-to “witch the world.”
- </p>
-<p>
-Lastly, I thought (for our jockey in undress was getting rather restive)
-of genial, jovial <i>Curran</i>, of whom Dan O'Connell said, “there never
-was so honest an Irishman,” and of whom there is one of the most charming
-biographies extant in the “<i>Curran and his Contemporaries</i>,” by Mr.
-Commissioner Philips.
-</p>
-<p>
-We could not see the very large and valuable Library, as it is closed
-during Vacations; and so having admired the exterior of the New Museum,
-and taken a general survey of the college, we made our bow to the <i>Alma
-Mater</i> of Ireland.
-</p>
-<p>
-It must be exquisitely gratifying to a large majority of the inhabitants
-to contemplate King William III. riding, gilt and bronzed, upon College
-Green, to be kept in constant recollection of the Boyne, and of the
-immunities and privileges which resulted from it. Everybody knows that he
-was a fine horseman, but the sculptor has not given him a hunting seat;
-and I think we could improve him, if we had him at Oxford, by painting him
-in a cutaway and buckskins.
-</p>
-<p>
-There is no fault to be found with the statues of Nelson and of Moore, the
-former being very effective, and the latter (though suggestive in the
-distance of a gentleman hailing an omnibus) being impressive and pleasing
-on a nearer view.
-</p>
-<p>
-The public buildings which we saw, the Bank of Ireland (once the Houses of
-its Lords and Commons), the Four Courts, College of Surgeons, Post Office,
-Barracks, &c., are all handsome, chiefly of Grecian architecture, and
-interesting to those who fancy this style of sight-seeing.
-</p>
-<p>
-We were rather disappointed with Sackville-Street. It wants length; and it
-wants (Heaven send it soon!) the animation of business and opulence, gay
-equipages, and crowded pavements.
-</p>
-<p>
-The Phoenix Park is delightful, <i>rus in urbe</i>—some 1700 acres
-of greensward and trees. We met several regiments, returning from a
-review; (the carman told us there were two reviews weekly, and we, of
-course, said something brilliant about the <i>Dublin Review</i> being <i>monthly</i>);
-and were, consequently, in an admirable frame of mind to appreciate the
-monument, grim and granite, in honour of the Iron Duke. What men this
-Dublin has given to the world—Swift, Steele, Burke, Grattan, Moore,
-<i>Wellington</i>. The names of his great battles are graven on the
-obelisk, <i>Waterloo</i> being, of course, omitted. I say “of course,”
- because there is something so delightfully Irish in this small oversight,
-that it seems quite natural and appropriate; and I should as little dream
-of being surprised or vexed by it, as if in an Irish edition of Milton I
-could find no “Paradise Lost.”
- </p>
-<p>
-In the Phoenix Park are the Constabulary Barracks, and the men were at
-drill as we drove by. There is no exaggeration in stating, that if a
-regiment could be formed from the Irish constables, it would be the finest
-regiment in arms See them wherever you may, they are, almost without
-exception, handsome, erect, heroic. Picked men, and admirably trained,
-they are as smart, and clean, lithe, and soldier-like, as the severest
-sergeant could desire. They do credit to him whose name they bear, for
-they are still called “<i>Peelers</i>” after their godfather Sir Robert,
-who originated the force, when Secretary for Ireland. Fifty of them had
-left Dublin for Kilkenny that morning, to expostulate with the bould
-pisantry on the impropriety of smashing some reaping-machines recently
-introduced among them. The Irishman is not quick to appreciate
-agricultural improvements. It required an Act of Parliament to prevent him
-from attaching the plough to the <i>tails of his horses</i>; he was very
-slow to acknowledge that the plough itself was better, when made of iron
-than of wood; he esteemed a bunch of thorns, with a big stone a-top, as
-the most efficient harrow going; and he denounced the winnowing-machine,
-as a wicked attempt to oppose the decree of a good Providence, which sent
-the wind of heaven “to clane the whate and oats.”
- </p>
-<p>
-A short time afterwards, we were surprised to see in a letter from one of
-these constables to <i>The Galway Express</i>, that their pay, after
-twenty years' service, is only two shillings per diem; and low as the
-remuneration for labour still is in this country, one cannot help but
-sympathise with the complainant.
-</p>
-<p>
-These lions, from whose manes and tails we have ventured to extract a few
-memorial hairs, were inspected before luncheon; immediately after that
-refection, we set forth per rail, and <i>via</i> Kingston, to Killiney. We
-had ample time, as we went, to contemplate the surrounding objects, which
-were not “rendered invisible from extreme velocity,” the nine miles
-occupying forty-five minutes; but we saw nothing of especial interest
-until we had reached the station, and began to ascend the hill. Then we
-exulted, eye and heart. The hill itself is worthy of a visit, the massive
-blocks of “its cold grey stones” contrasting admirably with the rosy
-heaths (I never saw ericas in greenhouse or garden with such a fresh,
-vivid brightness, 1) and with the glowing, golden furze. Ah, how poor and
-formal are statues, and terraces, and vases, and “ribbon-patterns,” and
-geometrical designs, and “bedding out,” when compared with nature's
-handiwork! And though, perhaps, never since the days of “the grand old
-gardener” has ornate horticulture attained so great a splendour, what true
-lover of flowers is really <i>satisfied</i> with our gorgeous modern
-gardens? We treat them, for the most part, as a child, with a new box of
-paints, his pictures—all the most glaring colours are crowded
-together; and the eye, dazzled and bewildered, yearns for that repose and
-harmony which, in nature, whether in the few flowerets of some hidden
-nook, or in the fiery autumnal grandeur of some mighty forest, diffuse
-perpetual peace.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 This applies throughout Ireland. See “Inglis's Tour,” vol.
-ii., p. 42.
-</pre>
-<p>
-There is an extraordinary structure at the top of Killiney Hill, which
-could only have been devised by an Irish architect. It is not a tower, nor
-a lighthouse, nor a summer-house: nay, the builder himself confesses he
-knows not what it is, in the following inscription:—“Last year being
-hard with the poor, the walls about these hills, and This, &c. &c.,
-erected by John Mapas, Esq., June, 1742.”
- </p>
-<p>
-Hard by, a young Duke of Dorset was thrown and killed, while hunting. It
-must have been a very Irish fox that led hound and horse into such a
-perilous position, and the only wonder is that any of the riders came down
-alive. A monumental pillar perpetuates the sorrowful history, and warns
-enthusiastic sportsmen from galloping over the broken ground and hidden
-fissures of misty mountain tops.
-</p>
-<p>
-Apropos of mountain and of mist, we saw a sight which reminded us of Anne
-of Geierstein, as she appeared to Arthur Philipson, “perched upon the very
-summit of a pyramidical rock.” For among the works executed by the
-benevolent behest of Mapas, there is one, hewn in stone, a four-sided
-staircase, leading to an apex, intended, doubtless, for a statue. But this
-was wanting when we first arrived; for the design, like so many others in
-poor old Ireland, had never been completed, and there were no
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“statues gracing,
-This noble place in.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-But by the goddess Vanus, just as Frank and I were lamenting this sad
-omission, the loveliest—at all events one of the loveliest—girls
-I ever remember to have seen, tripped lightly up the steps, laughing at a
-dear old clerical papa, who pretended to be alarmed, but wasn't; and
-something, beating violently under my left brace, told me that my heart
-had returned from Crewe, as a traveller comes home for a day or so, to
-prepare himself for another tour. It stayed with me four seconds, and then
-'twas hers. “Behold,” I said,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“'Car les beaux yeux Sont les deux sceptres de l'amour,'
-</pre>
-<p>
-the enthronement of the Queen of Beauty.” And the sea-breeze forsook the
-jealous waves to woo her; the sunlight beamed on her with golden smiles;
-and the very swallow, turning from his favourite fly, flew past her,
-twittering admiration. Rough sailors out at sea that day caught sight of
-this fair vision through the glass, and ceased for half an hour to swear.
-There she stood, as
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“jocund day Stands tip-toe on the misty mountain top;”
- </pre>
-<p>
-like Byron's Mary, on the hill of Annesley, awaiting that mighty hunter,
-the gallant, handsome Musters, when
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“on the summit of that hill she stood
-Looking afar, if yet her lover's steed
-Kept pace with her expectancy, and flew.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Or she might have been “The Gardener's Daughter,” when,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Half light, half shade,
-She stood, a sight to make an old man young.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-But never mind what she might have been, there she was.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Talk about Helen,
-<i>That</i> was a fiction, but <i>this</i> is reality.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0005" id="linkimage-0005"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/050m.jpg" alt="050m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/050.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-And never shall I forget how painfully drear that pedestal seemed, when
-the statue, descending, took her Papa's arm (Oh, that her beloved Governor
-were mine also!), and was gone from our gaze, like a beautiful star.
-</p>
-<p>
-The view from the hill of Killiney is one of the loveliest in this land of
-loveliness. Seated among the purple and golden flowers, you look over its
-rocks and trees upon the noble Bay of Dublin with its waters “bickering in
-the noontide blaze,” and the stately ships gliding to and fro. Below is
-Kingstown, opposite the old hill of Howth, and in the centre the
-metropolis of Ireland.
-</p>
-<p>
-I do not think that one ever has such a happy feeling of entire
-contentment, as when gazing upon beautiful scenery; and there we sat, in
-silent admiration, and took no note of time, until the train by which we
-had proposed to return, awoke us from our dreamy bliss, shrieking at us in
-derision from below, and steaming off to Dublin. So that, some two hours
-later, we found our dinners and ourselves a little overdone at
-Morrisson's; and nothing but some very transcendental claret, and the
-resilient spirit of roving Englishmen, could have induced us to sally
-forth once more for the gardens of Porto-Bello.
-</p>
-<p>
-Becoming acclimatised to the Outside Car, we began to enter into
-conversation with the drivers, and found them, like all Irishmen, quant
-and witty, though their humour, perhaps, does not lie so near the surface
-as it did before the Famine and Father Mathew.1 Our charioteer this
-evening was eloquently invective against a London cab which preceded us,
-and which he designated as “a baste of a tub.”
- </p>
-<p>
-“Sure, gintlemen,” said he, “and I'm for th'ould style intirely—it's
-illigant. I tell ye what it is, yer onners,” (and he turned to us in
-impressive confidence, and pointed contemptuously with his whip at the
-offending vehicle) “I'd lep over the likes o' that with this little mare;”
- but we earnestly begged he wouldn't.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0006" id="linkimage-0006"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/054m.jpg" alt="054m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/054.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-We were so fortunate as to reach the Porto-Bello Gardens just in time for
-“<i>The Siege and Capture of Delhi</i>.” We had both of us formed most
-erroneous impressions on the subject, and it was a grand opportunity for
-ascertaining truth. If the representation was correct, and there seems no
-reason to mistrust it, as “no expense had been spared,” it is high time
-for the English people to be told that the accounts which have appeared in
-their newspapers (the graphic, glowing descriptions of Mr. William Russell
-inclusive) are wickedly and superlatively false!
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 The priest can scarcely have been a descendant of his
-namesake, the General, who, to the manifest delight of an
-Irish Parliament, thus spake of <i>potheen</i>:—“The Chancellor
-on the woolsack drinks it, the Judge on the bench drinks
-it, the Peer in his robes drinks it, the Beggar with his
-wallet drinks it, I drink it, every man drinks it.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-The city of Delhi is constructed of painted wood, and does not exceed in
-dimensions a respectable modern residence. Before it, there is a pool of
-water. The siege commenced with a tune on the key-bugle, and with an
-appropriate illumination of <i>Bengal</i> lights, which extended over the
-entire scene of war, and was got up, as we supposed, at the joint expense
-of the combatants. Then the Anglo-Indian army, which had taken up a
-perilous position about four yards from the city, led off with a
-Roman-candle, and the rebels promptly replied with a maroon. The
-exasperated besiegers now went in, or rather went a long way over, with
-rockets,—the Sepoys, with undaunted courage, defying them with blue
-lights and crackers. For a time the battle was waged with extraordinary
-spirit, steel-filings, &c., &c.; but, finally, the “awful
-explosion of the Magazine,” admirably rendered by a “Jack-in-a-box,” threw
-the rebels into sad distress, and they came running (all six of them) from
-the city, trying the old dodge to give an idea of multitude, by rushing in
-at one door and rushing out at another. The British soldiers, conversant
-with this manouvre, which they had so often witnessed at Mr. Batty's
-Hippodrome, immediately charged into the devoted city, lit a red light,
-and all was over. The total silence, which immediately ensued within the
-walls, impressively told the annihilation of the vanquished, and the great
-fatigue (or, alas! it might be the abject intoxication) of the victors,
-reminding one forcibly of the schoolboy's description, in Latin, of the
-termination of a siege,—“<i>Dein victores, urbe capta, si cut pisces
-bibunt, et, parvula, si ulla, itlis culpa, nullum bestiarum finem ex
-seipsis faciunt</i>.”
- </p>
-<p>
-Frank said it was <i>Delhicious!</i> and to this atrocity, as well as to
-His Excellency's absence from Dublin, I attribute the melancholy fact that
-the Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland never called upon us.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER IV. FROM DUBLIN TO GALWAY.
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE next morning at breakfast, a Scotch gentleman, with an amazing accent,
-would read the newspaper in such loud tones to his friend, that, not being
-monks, nor accustomed to be read to, <i>more monastico</i>, at our meals,
-we really could not enjoy our food, and were compelled to toss up which of
-us should recite to the other the list of Bankrupts from <i>The Times</i>.
-I lost, but had not progressed far in my distinct enunciation of the
-unhappy insolvents, when the Caledonian took the hint, and we ate our
-mackerel in peace.
-</p>
-<p>
-Leaving Dublin by the “Midland Great Western Railway,” at 10.30, we
-reached Galway at 3.45. The intermediate country is, for the most part,
-dreary and uninteresting, at times resembling the bleaker parts of
-Derbyshire, and at times Chat Moss. “I am no botanist,” as the
-Undergraduate remarked to the Farmer, who expostulated with him for riding
-over his wheat; but the agriculture appeared to be feeble, and to show
-want of <i>management</i> in its twofold signification. The green crops
-looked well everywhere, but the corn was thin, and the pastures by no
-means of that emerald hue which we had expected to find. With the
-exceptions of peasants, cutting and stacking peat for their winter fuel,
-children at the doors of cottages, the railway passengers and officials,
-there seemed to us, coming from densely populated England, to be really
-“nobody about;” and the contrast between our present route and that which
-we had travelled, two days before, through the “Potteries,” was as marked
-as contrast well could be. This comparative quietude and silence prevailed
-wherever we went, as though we were wandering through the grounds of some
-country place, “the family” being abroad, and most of the servants gone
-out to tea. Ah, when will the family come back to live at home, to take
-delight in this beautiful but neglected garden, weed the walks, turn out
-the pig, and look after these indolent and quarrelsome servants?—indolent
-and quarrelsome, only because there are none to encourage industry and to
-maintain peace.
-</p>
-<p>
-We passed the station of <i>Maynooth</i>, but did not see the “Royal
-College of St. Patrick,” and are therefore unable to vituperate that
-establishment, as otherwise it would be our duty to do.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0007" id="linkimage-0007"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/060m.jpg" alt="060m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/060.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-Missing this fashionable Christian exercise, I amused myself by attiring a
-portly, closeshaven priest—who sat opposite to me, and who had a
-face which would have represented anybody with the aid of a clever <i>costumier</i>—in
-all sorts of imaginary head-dresses, dowagers' turbans, Grenadiers' caps,
-Gampian bonnets, beadles' hats, &c., and endeavoured to fancy the
-feelings of his flock, if they were to see him in reality, as I in
-thought.
-</p>
-<p>
-Passing through county Meath, we were again reminded of Swift, who held
-the rectory of Agher, with the vicarages of Laracor and Rathbeggan
-therein, and of the beautiful Hester, sacrificed to his vanity, and crying
-aloud, in piteous tone, “It is too late! It is too late!”
- </p>
-<p>
-Nigh to <i>Athlone</i> (of which more hereafter) is the village of <i>Auburn</i>,
-formerly called <i>Lissoy</i>, the residence of Parson Goldsmith, and the
-early home of the poet. The scenes of his childhood and his youth were
-doubtless remembered by him, when he wrote “The Deserted Village,” and
-many features of resemblance may still be traced.
-</p>
-<p>
-At <i>Ballinasloe</i> (everybody has heard of its great horse-fair, and
-how the hunters jump over the walls of the “Pound,” in height about eight
-feet, Irish) we entered the county of <i>Galway</i>, and tremblingly
-anticipated, after all we had heard of its wild, reckless sons, that some
-delirious driver would spring upon the engine, with a screech louder than
-its own, put on all steam, run us off the line for fun, and cause us to be
-challenged by our fellow-passengers, should we escape with our lives, for
-not appreciating the sport. But we travelled onwards, demurely and at
-peace; and, indeed, throughout our little tour, so far from being provoked
-or annoyed, we met with nothing but kindness and courtesy, and a
-good-humoured willingness to be pleased and to please.
-</p>
-<p>
-The Railway Hotel at <i>Galway</i> is the largest that we saw in Ireland,
-and contains, as we had been informed, “a power o' beds.” These want
-sleepers sadly, and at present the tourist, as he wanders from coffee-room
-to dormitory, feels very much
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Like one that treads alone
-Some banquet-hall deserted,
-Whose guests are fled,” &c.,
-</pre>
-<p>
-and cheers his loneliness with the thought, that should Galway become (as
-all who care for Ireland must hope) <i>the</i> port for America, this
-solemn stillness shall depress no more. The inn forms one side of the
-principal Square, and, the neighbour buildings being comparatively small
-and dingy, resembles some grand lady, in all her crinoline, teaching the
-third class at a Sunday school. The grass-plat and garden are nicely kept,
-but their chief ornaments struck us as being rather incongruous, to wit,
-<i>hydrangeas</i> and <i>cannon!</i> The guns were pointed at our bedroom
-windows, and it really required some little resolution next morning to
-shave ourselves with placidity “at the cannons' mouth.” Having secured
-places for the morrow on the Car to Clifden, specially stipulating for
-“the Lake side” of the conveyance, we selected a shrewd-looking lad from a
-crowd of candidates (the Roman candidati wore white togas in the
-market-place, but these young gentlemen did not), and went to see the
-sights. We saw a great deal that was very interesting, and a great deal
-that was very dirty; we saw the traces of Spanish architecture, in quaint
-gateways and quadrangular courts, but were not “reminded of Seville,” our
-only association with that city being a passionate love of marmalade; we
-saw Lynch's castle, and its grotesque carving is very curious; we saw the
-house in Deadman's Lane, where lived that Fitz-Stephen, Warden of Galway,
-who, according to the worst authenticated tradition, assisted at the
-hanging of his own son; we saw warehouses sans ware; granaries, some
-without grain, and others with “the meal-sacks on the whitened floor;” we
-saw and greatly admired Queen's College; we saw chapels and nunneries,
-whence the Angelus bell sounded as we passed; above all, we saw the <i>Claddagh</i>.
-Going thither, our little showman told us of the big trade in wines
-between this place and Spain which flourished in the good times of old,
-and I foolishly thought to perplex him by the inquiry, “whether much
-business was done in the Spanish juice line?”
- </p>
-<p>
-“And sure,” said he, “your onner must know, <i>that</i> was the thrade
-intirely. Divil a taste of anything else did they bring us, but the juist
-of their Spanish vines.”
- </p>
-<p>
-The Englishman who desires a new sensation should pay a visit to the <i>Claddagh</i>.
-When we arrived, the men were at sea; but the women, in their bright red
-petticoats, descending half-way down the uncovered leg, their cloaks worn
-like the Spanish mantilla, and of divers colours, their headkerchiefs and
-hoods, were grouped among the old grey ruins where the fish market is
-held, and formed a tableau not to be forgotten. Though their garments are
-torn, and patched, and discoloured, there is a graceful simple dignity
-about them which might teach a lesson to Parisian milliners; and to my
-fancy the most becoming dress in all the world is that of a peasant girl
-of Connamara. Compare it, reader, with our present mode, and judge. Look
-at the two, sculptor, and say which will you carve? Say, when “Santa
-Philomena” is graved in marble, shall it be with flounces and hoops?
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0008" id="linkimage-0008"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/065m.jpg" alt="065m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/065.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-No, whatever may be the wrongs of Ireland no lover of the picturesque and
-beautiful would wish to see her <i>re-dressed</i> (so far as the ladies
-are concerned—the gentlemen might be improved); no one would desire
-to see her peasant girls in the tawdry bonnets and brass-eyed boots, which
-stultify the faces and cripple the feet of the daughters of our English
-labourers.
-</p>
-<p>
-As to the origin of these Claddagh people, I am not sufficiently “up” in
-ethnology, to state with analytical exactness the details of their
-descent; but I should imagine them to be one-third Irish, one-third
-Arabian, and the other Zingaro, or Spanish gypsy. 1 I thought that I
-recognised in one old lady an Ojibbeway chief, who frightened me a good
-deal in my childhood, but she had lost the expression of ferocity, and I
-was, perhaps, mistaken.
-</p>
-<p>
-The men are all fishermen (very clumsy ones, according to Miss Martineau,
-who talks about harpoons as if they were crochet needles, in her
-interesting “Letters from Ireland”); but they give up their cargoes to the
-women on landing, only stipulating that from the proceeds they may be
-supplied with a good store of drink and tobacco, and so get due
-compensation on the shore for their unvarying sobriety at sea.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Wales is also represented by members of the Jones family.
-The original John may have come over with Thomas Joyce, who
-was good enough to appropriate “the Joyce Country” to
-himself and family, in the reign of Edward the First.
-</pre>
-<p>
-They live (some 1500 souls in all) in a village of miserable cabins, the
-walls of mud and stone, and for the most part windowless, the floors damp
-and dirty, and the roofs a mass of rotten straw and weeds. The poultry
-mania—(and if it is not mania to give ten guineas for a bantam, in
-what does insanity consist? l)—must be here at its height, for the
-cocks and hens roost in the parlour. But “the swells” of the Claddagh are
-its pigs. They really have not only a “landed expression,” as though the
-place belonged to them, but a supercilious gait and mien; and with an
-autocratic air, as though repeating to themselves the spirited verses of
-Mr. A. Selkirk, they go in and out, whenever and wherever they please. I
-saw one of them, bold as the beast who upset Giotto, 2 knock over a little
-child with his snout; and I have a sad impression that the juvenine was
-whipped for interfering with the royal progress. Frank solemnly declared
-that he saw one, as portrayed with his back against the lintail of his
-home, and smoking his evening pipe.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 This form of delirium is by no means of modern origin.
-Opvi-ôofiavta, a passionate love of rare birds, was known
-among the ladies of Athens.
-
-2 We read in <i>Lanzi's History of Painting</i>, that as <i>Giotto</i>
-was walking with his friends, one Sunday, in the <i>Via del
-Cocomero</i> at Florence, he was overthrown by a pig running
-between his legs. Whereupon the painter, albeit he was in
-his best clothes, philosophically recognised a just
-retribution, “for,” said he, “although I have earned many
-thousand crowns with the bristles of these animals, I never
-gave to one of them a spoonful of swill in my life!”
- </pre>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0009" id="linkimage-0009"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/068m.jpg" alt="068m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/068.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-I receive this statement <i>cum grano salis</i> (always appropriate to
-bacon), as I do Phil Purcel's, that “there was in Ireland an old breed of
-swine, which is now nearly extinct, except in some remote parts of the
-country, where they are still <i>useful in the hunting season</i>, if dogs
-happen to be scarce;” 1 and (with all deference to the lady).
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Carleton's “Traits and Stories of the Irish Peasantry.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall's, “an acquaintance of ours taught one <i>to point</i>,
-and the animal found game <i>as correctly as a pointer</i>. He <i>gave
-tongue</i>, too, after his own fashion, by grunting in a sonorous tone,
-and understood when he was to take the field as well as any dog.” 1 But,
-however this may be, everything in the Claddagh is done to “please the
-pigs:”
- </p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Pride in their port, defiance in their eye,
-You see them, lords of all around, pass by;”
- </pre>
-<p>
-and Og reigneth once more in Basan. He is precious and he has his
-privileges. “I think” (said Phil from the hob) “that nobody has a better
-right to the run of the house, whedher up stairs or down stairs, than him
-that pays the rint” Such is the great destiny of the Irish pig. He is not
-associated in the prospective contemplations of his owner with low views
-of pork and sausages; for Paddy says, with Launcelot, “if we grow all to
-be pork-eaters, we shall not shortly have a rasher on the coals for
-money,” and
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“As for eating a rasher of what they take pride in,
-They'd as soon think of eating the pan it is fryed in. 1
-</pre>
-<p>
-but he represents the generous friend and benefactor, who is about to
-render an important service at considerable personal discomfort.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 In their pleasant volume, “The West and Connamara.”
- Goldsmith's “Letter to Lord Clare.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-It was washing-day at one of the cabins, and a great variety of wearing
-apparel was hung out to dry. We could not discover a single article which
-at all resembled anything known to us, or which a schoolboy would have
-accepted for any part of his Faux.
-</p>
-<p>
-Nevertheless, one likes the people of the Claddagh; they seem to be
-honest, industrious, and good-tempered, and they have, at least, one great
-virtue—like Lady Godiva, they are “clothed on with chastity.” Sir
-Francis Head, who had the best means of getting information from the
-police, and used them with his exhaustive energy, could not hear that
-there had ever been an illegitimate child born in the Claddagh. They never
-intermarry with strangers, and “<i>their marriages are generally preceded
-by an elopement</i>” (vide the article on “<i>Galway</i>,” in the <i>Encyclopodia
-Britannica</i>, which one is surprised to find discoursing on such festive
-pleasantries), “<i>and followed by a boisterous merry-making</i>.”
- </p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER V. THE FAMINE.
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">A</span>S schoolboys, to whom “next half” begins to-morrow—sailors on the
-eve of a voyage—invalids, expecting a physician, who, they know,
-will prescribe an unwelcome diet—yea, even as criminals before
-execution,—amplify their meals, and, from their dreary expectations,
-educe a keener relish,—so we, awfully anticipating the <i>cuisine</i>
-of Connamara, made a mighty dinner at Galway. It was brought to us,
-moreover, by a dear old waiter, who evidently had a proud delight in
-feeding us, as though he were some affectionate sparrow, and we his callow
-young, taking off the covers with a triumphant air, like a conjuror sure
-of his trick, and pouring out our Drogheda ale, with quite as much respect
-and care as Ganymede could have shown for the Gods.
-</p>
-<p>
-“Was the salmon caught this morning, waiter?”
- </p>
-<p>
-“It was, sir. Faith, it's not two hours since that fish was walking round
-his estates, wid his hands in his pockets, never draming what a pretty
-invitashun he'd have to jine you gintlemen at dinner.”
- </p>
-<p>
-This was followed by a small saddle of “Arran mutton, y'r onner;” and
-“what can mortals wish for more,” except a soupçon of cheese?
-</p>
-<p>
-Ah, but we felt almost ashamed of being so full and comfortable, when our
-conversational attendant began to talk to us about the Great Famine.
-“That's right, good gintlemen,” he said, “niver forget, when ye've had yer
-males, to thank the Lord as sends them. May ye niver know what it is to
-crave for food, and may ye niver see what I have seen, here in the town o'
-Galway. I mind the time when I lived yonder” (and he pointed to Kilroy's
-Hotel), “and the poor craturs come crawling in from the country with their
-faces swollen, and grane, and yaller, along of the arbs they'd been ating.
-We gave them bits and scraps, good gintlemen, and did what we could (the
-Lord be praised!), but they was mostly too far gone out o' life to want
-more than the priest and pity. I've gone out of a morning, gintlemen,”
- (his lip quivered as he spoke), “and seen them lying dead in the square,
-with the green grass in their mouths.” And he turned away, (God bless his
-kind heart!), to hide the tears, which did him so much honour.
-</p>
-<p>
-Can history or imagination suggest a scene more awfully impressive than
-that which Ireland presented in the times of the Great Famine? The sorrows
-of that visitation have been recorded by eloquent, earnest men; but they
-come home to us with a new and startling influence, when we hear of them
-upon Irish ground. Most vividly can we realise the wreck, when he, who
-hardly swam ashore and escaped, points to the scene of peril; and while
-the storm-clouds still drift in the far horizon, and the broken timbers
-float upon the seething wave, describes, with an exactness horrible to
-himself, that last amazement and despair.
-</p>
-<p>
-In the beautiful land of the merry-hearted, “all joy was darkened,—the
-mirth of the land was gone.” In the country of song, and dance, and
-laughter, there was not heard, wherever that Famine came, one note of
-music, nor one cheerful sound,—only the gasp of dying men, and the
-mourners' melancholy wail. The green grass of the Emerald Isle grew over a
-nation's grave. The crowning plague of Egypt was transcended here, for not
-only in some districts, was there in every house “one dead,” but there
-were homes in which there was but one living—homes, in which one
-little child was found, calling upon father, mother, brothers, and
-sisters, to wake from their last, long sleep,—homes, from which the
-last survivor fled away, in wild alarm, from those whom living he had
-loved so well. Fathers were seen vainly endeavouring (such was their
-weakness) to dig a grave for their children, reeling and staggering with
-the useless spade in their hands. The poor widow, who had left her home to
-beg a coffin for her last, lost child, fell beneath her burden upon the
-road and died. 1 The mendicant had now no power to beg The drivers of the
-public cars went into cottages, and found all dead, or Rachel weeping for
-her children, and praying that die she might. By the seaside, men seeking
-shell-fish, fell down upon the sands, and, impotent to rise, were drowned.
-First they began to bury corpses, coffinless, then could not bury them at
-all.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 See a most interesting article on the “Famine in the South
-of Ireland,” in Fraser's Magazine, for April, 1847, p. 499.
-</pre>
-<p>
-Of indignities and mutilations, which then befell, I will not, for I
-cannot, speak.
-</p>
-<p>
-Indeed, it may be asked, wherefore should we repeat at all these sad,
-heart-rending details? Because, the oftener they are had in painful
-remembrance, the less likely they are to recur in terrible reality;
-because—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Never did any public misery
-Rise of itself; God's plagues still grounded are
-On common stains of our humanity;
-And to the flame which ruineth mankind
-Man gives the matter, or at least the wind; 1
-
-1 Fulke Greville, Lord Brooke.
-</pre>
-<p>
-and because, when we know the cause and the symptoms, we can the more
-readily prevent and prescribe.
-</p>
-<p>
-Everyone knows, of course, the origin of the Irish Famine.
-</p>
-<p>
-“The blight which fell upon the potato produced a deadly famine, because
-the people had cultivated it so exclusively, that when it failed, millions
-became as utterly destitute, as if the island were incapable of producing
-any other species of sustenance.” 2
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-2 Report of Census Commissioners for Ireland.
-</pre>
-<p>
-They, “who are habitually and entirely fed on potatoes, live upon the
-extreme verge of human subsistence, and when they are deprived of their
-accustomed food, there is nothing cheaper to which they can resort. They
-have already reached the lowest point in the descending scale, and here is
-nothing beyond but starvation or beggary.” 1
-</p>
-<p>
-The remedy is just as clear,—to induce the peasantry of Ireland no
-longer to <i>depend</i> upon an article of food, which is difficult to
-procure, cumbrous to convey, possesses so little nourishment that it must
-be consumed in large quantities, 2 creates a strange, unhealthy distaste
-for other food, 3 is subject to so many diseases from humidity and frost,
-and which has wrought such grievous desolation through the length and
-breadth of the land. 4
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Edinburgh Review, No. 175, p. 233.
-
-2 The evidence taken before the Poor Law Commissioners,
-previously to the establishment of the New Poor Law in
-Ireland, proves that “ten pounds, twelve pounds, and even
-fourteen pounds of potatoes are usually consumed by an Irish
-peasant each day.”—Letters on the Condition of the People
-of Ireland, by J. Campbell Forster, Esq., the Times'
-Commissioner.
-
-3 “When this famine was at the worst in Connamara, the sea
-off the coast there teemed with turbot, to such an extent
-that the laziest of fishermen could not help catching them
-in thousands; but the common people would not touch them.”—
-Quarterly Review, vol. lxxxi., p. 435.
-
-4 Cobbett called the potato, that “root of poverty.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-<i>How</i> that remedy is to be applied, let legislators and landlords
-tell; meanwhile, my friend, and I, having sorrowfully sipped our pint of
-sherry, shall essay to cheer ourselves with a mild cigar, and a farewell
-walk to the Claddagh.
-</p>
-<p>
-The shades of eve were falling fast, as we set forth, and we were just in
-time to see the last haul of the nets, and the silver salmon lying on the
-bank. Then we revived our spirits by a little conversation with young
-Claddagh, (merry and mischievous urchins), and by a distribution of
-copper, every halfpenny of which raised such a tumulus of rags as would
-have kept a paper mill at work for weeks. Then—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“the sun set,
-And all the land was dark.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER VI. FROM GALWAY TO OUGHTERARDE.
-</h2>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0010" id="linkimage-0010"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/078m.jpg" alt="078m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/078.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>E left Galway for Clifden at 9.30 next morning. The public conveyance is
-a large-paper edition of the outside car, with an elevated seat for the
-driver. There is one place to be avoided on some of these vehicles, that
-nearest to the horses on the off-side, on account of the iron bar of the
-drag, which operates from time to time very disagreeably on the back and
-shoulders of the contiguous traveller. The scenery gradually increases in
-interest. First we have trees, farms, houses, and the quiet aspect of
-country life; then, we have delightful views at intervals, of Lough Corrib
-and its islands, and the landscape becomes diversified, less under
-culture, and more wild in consequence; and, lastly, the sublime and solemn
-beauty of the mountains and lakes of Connamara.
-</p>
-<p>
-Some of the residences amused us greatly. You see a large lodge by the
-wayside, and look out, in the distance, for some princely castle, or
-baronial hall, at any rate; but there is no need for any such optical
-exertion, the mansion being close to you, eighty yards perhaps from the
-entrance, and only a size larger, (a small size larger, as they say at the
-glove-shops), than the lodge itself.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0011" id="linkimage-0011"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/079m.jpg" alt="079m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/079.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-Some of the gateways, too, would have been very imposing, if most of their
-principal ornaments had not been mutilated or missing. Our favourite among
-the more perfect specimens, was adorned with a stone pine-apple on one
-pillar, and a Swede turnip or pumpkin on the other; and had a rich effect.
-Most of the field-gates have massive pillars of stone, and would render
-the inclosures most secure, if there were not, now and then, easy
-apertures through the turf-dykes, which form the fence hard by, suggesting
-the idea of a front door barred and locked against thieves, with one of
-the hall-windows wide open!
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0012" id="linkimage-0012"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/080m.jpg" alt="080m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/080.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-As to the people, there is little difference, so far as appearance is
-concerned, between Paddy in England and Paddy at home; the same flaccidity
-of hat; the same amplitude of shirt-collar, which would cut his ears off
-if it were severely starched; the same dress coat of frieze; drab breeches
-(aisy at the knees), grey-stockings, and brogues. The same in aspect, but
-in action how different! In England, he will rise with the sun, reap under
-its burning heat until it sets, and dance in the barn at midnight. In
-Ireland, he seems to be always either going to his work, or looking at his
-work, or resting from his work, or coming away from his work, in brief, to
-be doing nothing, cordially assisted by his friends and neighbours. The
-potatoes will prevent his famishing from hunger, if the season be
-propitious; the peat-stack will keep him from perishing by cold; and His
-Royal Highness, the Pig, will pay the landlord his rent.
-</p>
-<p>
-The women are, for the most part, good-looking, erect, and graceful movers
-(for there are no corns in Connaught); and, from the bright colours of
-their costume, their red petticoats and blue cloaks, are ever a pleasant
-refreshment to the eye, and picturesque addition to the scene. They are
-uniformly and painfully shy. Francis, and I, are both of us what may be
-termed remarkably handsome men, but they wouldn't look at us; and I shall
-never forget the agony of a young housemaid, who, assisting the waiter one
-morning with a tub of water to my room, caught sight of my dressing-gown
-through the open door, and instantly, though the garment is of a pleasing
-pattern, and descends quite to the ground, rushed off, like Dorothea from
-Cardenio and his companions, and, I verily believe, is running now.
-</p>
-<p>
-As regards children,—there are crosses in Ireland, which are saluted
-by wives, who would be mothers also; and these crosses, or something
-equally efficacious, appear to be universally embraced. Every cottage sent
-forth a running accompaniment (<i>allegro</i>) to the car, healthful,
-cheery children, and would be beautiful, in spite of their wretched homes,
-and meagre diet, and rags, if their mothers could be induced to recognise
-the utility of soap and a comb. Their raiment is very scant and curious.
-Ould Larry's coat, with the tails cut off, makes young Larry “an entire
-juvenile suit,” and the inexpressibles of Phelim <i>père</i> form a noble
-panoply for Phelim <i>fils</i>, with his little arms thrust through the
-pocket-holes. These tatterdemalions beg as they run by the car, but seem
-indifferent as to the result, enjoying their “constitutional,” and parting
-from us with a pleasant smile whether we gave to them or not. Some of a
-literary turn of mind asked rather urgently for “penny buy book,” but the
-imposition was a little too patent, so very far from a bookseller's shop,
-and we recommended them to quench their thirst for knowledge in the only
-volumes to be perused (and that gratuitously) in the neighbourhood, the
-“books in the running brooks.”
- </p>
-<p>
-A few professional beggars come round, when there is a change of horses
-(excellent horses they are), but are neither so frequent nor so
-importunate, as we had been led to expect. One old lady had evidently got
-the last new thing in begging, a letter to her “poor darlint boy as was
-gone to Merrikey, and would ye bestow a thrifle, good gintlemen, to pay
-the bit o' postage, God bless yer bewtifle young faces.” Of course, we
-would, every mother's son of us. What an affectionate, exemplary parent!
-When we returned, a few days afterwards, she was again in correspondence
-with her beloved son, far away from her yearning tenderness, beyond the
-broad Atlantic; and, indeed, I have reason to believe from information
-which I gathered from the driver and our fellow-passengers, that this
-disconsolate mother writes to her exile child every day, except Sundays.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0013" id="linkimage-0013"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/084m.jpg" alt="084m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/084.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-The miserable huts of the peasantry, seen by the feeble light which comes
-through the doorway and smoke-hole (to talk about chimneys would be an
-insult to architecture) give one the idea, not so much that the pigs have
-got into the parlour, but that the family have migrated to the sty. An
-unpaved clay floor below, a roof of straw and weeds, dank, soaked, and
-rotting, overhead, a miserable bed in the corner, an iron pot over a peat
-fire, are the principal items of the property. Before the door is a sink,
-black and filthy, for the refuse. And yet the inmates look hale and happy
-beyond what one would hope to see, and the thought at once suggests
-itself, how much might be accomplished by such a people, awaking to assert
-its dignity, and to discharge its duty. Here and there are roofless
-cottages, gravestones, on which is written, as on Albert Dürer's, “<i>Emigravit</i>”
- he has gone to seek over the wide seas the comforts which here he could
-not, or would not, win; or he has gone “to the land, which is very far
-off,” to hunger and thirst no more,—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“There fell upon the house a sudden gloom,
-A shadow on those features fair and thin;
-And softly, from that hushed and darkened room,
-Two angels issued, where but one went in.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-It is sad indeed to see these monuments, “where memory” (as an Irish poet
-1 sings) “sits by the altar she has raised to woe,” monuments of suffering
-and dearth, amid scenes of surpassing beauty, and fields which might stand
-thick with corn, but where, from the shameful indolence of His creatures,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“<i>In vain </i>,with lavish kindness, the gifts of God are strewn.”
-
-1 Curran.
-</pre>
-<p>
-There is no town between <i>Galway</i> and <i>Clifden</i>, unless we
-compliment with that title the large village of <i>Oughterarde</i>,
-pleasantly situated hard by <i>Lough Corrib</i>, with its picturesque
-bridge, marvellously transparent stream, handsome constables, and
-(comparatively speaking) magnificent church. The Roman Catholic churches
-are, for the most part, so very plain and poor, having little but the
-Cross, and a melancholy imitation of Gothic mullions in wood, to denote
-their consecration, that the building of <i>Oughterarde</i> has quite an
-imposing effect, and we went up the hill to see it. The leisure and
-liberty allowed to passengers by car are amusingly refreshing in these
-days of steam; and I thought, as we sauntered towards <i>Sainte Terre</i>,
-how astonished the guard of an express train would be, to behold his
-fellow-travellers quietly strolling off to inspect the cathedral, at <i>Peterborough,
-York, or Lincoln</i>.
-</p>
-<p>
-We found little to admire, as to architecture without, or ornament within;
-but a priest, who went with us from the car, said it was “beautiful,” and
-looked as if to him it was so indeed, as he knelt with others reverently
-praying there. I thought of our grand old churches at home, locked and
-barred, most of them, except for a few hours on Sunday (as though the soul
-should be treated, like a boa-constrictor, with six days sleep, and then a
-rabbit); and I envied that poor pilgrim through a prayerless world his
-privilege and opportunity.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER VII. CONNAMARA.
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">O</span>UGHTERARDE is termed the entrance to Connamara, but the boundaries
-seem somewhat undefined, like the sensations induced by the wildly
-beautiful scenery,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“The vague emotion of delight
-While climbing up some Alpine height.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Measured and mapped <i>Connamara</i> may be, but painted or described it
-never can. Those sublime landscapes of mountain, moor, and mere, are
-photographed on the memory for ever, but cannot be reproduced on canvas;
-and a great master of art, a <i>Michael Angelo (Tilmarsh)</i> throws down
-his brush, with the wise confession, “all that we can do is to cry,
-Beautiful!” Who shall take it up, and paint? Not mine, a prentice hand, to
-daub a caricature (about as like the original, as a pastile to Vesuvius,
-or a “cinder-tip” to the Himalayas) of those glorious Irish Alps, of the
-<i>Maum-Turk</i> mountains, or of <i>Bina Beola</i>, rising, in solemn
-majesty, amid a sea of golden and roseate flowers. It requires a
-confidence which I do not feel, to attempt the Hallelujah Chorus on my
-penny trumpet, or, where Phidias distrusts his chisel, to commence a
-Colossus with my knife and fork. But I shall never forget our silent
-happiness, a happiness like childhood's, so complete and pure, as, mile
-after mile, we watched the sunlight and the shadows, sweeping over hill,
-and lake, and plain, (so swiftly that every minute the whole view seemed
-to change), and saw the snow-white goats among the purple heath, and the
-kine, jet-black and glowing red, knee-deep in the silver waters.
-</p>
-<p>
-But there are minds no scenery can delight or awe. I remember, how,
-travelling by rail, one glorious morning in December, the trees all hoar
-with frost, and glittering against a sky blue as the turquoise, I met a
-Cockney gent, who condescendingly surveyed the scene, and said that “it
-reminded him of <i>Storr and Mortimers!</i> The water was very like those
-plate-glass things, which were used to set off the silver, and the trees a
-good deal resembled the candelabra clustered above.” And he smiled as one
-who was pleased to approve the article which Nature humbly submitted to
-his inspection, and seemed, out of his overflowing goodness, to pat
-Creation's head. And now, seated upon the box, a “party” from Sheffield
-insulted that pure delicious atmosphere with very villainous “shag,” and
-talked as flippantly and without restraint, as though he were in the Chair
-at “The Cutler's Arms,” presiding over a Free-and-Easy. No sooner did he
-ascertain from the driver that the grand Highlands before us were known as
-“<i>The Twelve Pins</i>” than he desired the company to inform him, “what
-degree of relationship existed between them and the <i>Needles</i> off the
-Isle of Wight?” a genealogical problem, which would have been received
-with a due and dignified silence, but for his own unrestrained applause
-and laughter. Then he favoured us with an enigma, “Why have them pins no
-<i>pints?</i> Because they're principally composed of <i>quartz!</i>” His
-geology he had got from a guidebook, out of which he treated us to various
-extracts, appending commentaries of his own. “Miss Martineau says the hair
-'ere” (of course he transplanted every h) “is very like breathing cream.
-Wonder whether the old gal meant cream of the valley, or milk-punch—ha!
-ha! ha!”
- </p>
-<p>
-From this subject he passed very naturally to mountain dew, and the
-illegal manufacture of whiskey, shouting at the top of his voice, “I
-cannot help loving thee, <i>Still</i>;” and then singing, “<i>Still</i>, I
-love thee, <i>Still</i>, I love thee,”—“<i>Fare thee well</i>, and
-if for ever, Still, for ever fare thee well” (the music by Mr. Joseph
-Miller), until, happily for us, his pipe went out, and playfully wondering
-“how he should obtain a light, when all around was <i>matchless</i>,” he
-collapsed into a state of quiet suction, like a gold fish in a vase.
-</p>
-<p>
-Incidents, in a country unreclaimed and almost uninhabited, must
-necessarily be small and infrequent, like the currants on an Irish cake.
-We had a change of horses at the <i>Half-way House</i> (half-way between
-<i>Oughterarde</i> and <i>Ballinahinch</i>), and this rapid flight of
-horsemanship was performed something under the half-hour. I took advantage
-of the interval to recline on the green sward hard by, and commenced, in
-dreamy enjoyment, a silent oration to the scenes around. “<i>O Connamara</i>,”
- I began, “<i>non amarat sed amcena!</i> let me hear and heed thy sermons
-in stones, though thine own sons be deaf to them.”
- </p>
-<p>
-Alas! for the sad contrast, where every prospect pleases, and only man is
-vile! 1 Why should not fields of golden corn, and orchards heavy with
-fruit, bring plenty from thy fertile plains? Why should rank weeds,
-rag-wort, and loose strife, (evil signs and sounds!) usurp thy untilled
-soil, a 'soyle most fertile,' as old Spenser saith, 'fit to yielde all
-kinde of fruit that shall be committed thereunto?'” And the answer which I
-heard, “awaking with a start” from my reverie, was a surly grunt close to
-my ear, and a loud laugh from Frank, who thus perpetuated the <i>tableau
-vivant</i>:
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Lord Chesterfield spoke of Ireland as “that country for
-which God has done so much, and man so little.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0014" id="linkimage-0014"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/092m.jpg" alt="092m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/092.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-We lunched at “<i>The Recess</i>,” a pleasant little inn (with a cheerful
-landlady and civil waitress), but somewhat damp withal; for Ireland is
-“the Niobe of nations,” 1 and, as the beautiful bride of the Atlantic,
-ofttimes weeps in her western home, when her husband is at low water, or
-subject to lunar influence. But there is no time for metaphor or
-meteorology, the cutler having already scooped the interior from the heads
-of both the lobsters, and it being quite necessary to propose some saving
-clause to this sweeping Act of shellfishness. “I am no gastronomer,” as
-the old lady observed, when they asked her to go out and see the comet,
-but I do acknowledge, in unison with the majority of my fellowmen, the
-powerful fascinations of lobster; and I shall not shrink from the
-confession, that our feelings, as we witnessed this gross monopoly, were
-hot and acid as the pepper and the vinegar, which was almost all he left
-us.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 “If,” writes Mr. Young, in his <i>Tour in Ireland</i>, “as much
-rain fell upon the clays of England as upon the rocks of the
-sister country, they could not be cultivated.” I should
-doubt this, taking into account our modern improvements as to
-drainage; but, at all events, it is evident that “the
-humidity of the climate renders Ireland decidedly better
-fitted for a grazing than for an agricultural country.”—
-See M'Culloch's Statistical Account of the British Empire,
-ed. 2, vol. ii., p. 367.
-</pre>
-<p>
-At the same time, it may be said, in mitigation of his ill-taste and our
-ill-temper, that the love of the lobster has ere now troubled the
-equanimity of greater and better men; and I have seen a noble Duke scowl
-malignantly at an unconscious Earl, whose plate preceded his own. But all
-ended well, for our greedy knife-grinder having finished his lobster, two
-bottles of Guinness, one ditto Bass, and a go of whiskey “for luck,” had
-scarcely ascended the box, and favoured us with that assurance of
-plethory, which the Chinese expect as a compliment from all well-bred (and
-well-fed) guests, than his head began slowly to fall and rise, like a
-large float, lazily influenced by some undecided fish; and he only
-intruded himself upon our silent admiration of that magnificent scenery
-with occasional imitations of swine asleep.
-</p>
-<p>
-There was a time when the Martins ruled in <i>Connamara</i>, and <i>Ballinahinch</i>,
-which we now pass, was the palace of Richardus Rex; when Lord Lieutenants
-were told plainly, that the excellent claret they were drinking had <i>done</i>
-its duty, without discharging it; and gaugers, bailiffs, writ-servers, and
-the like, were as rare upon the mountains as the Irish elk. The estate
-extended to <i>Oughterarde</i>, some six and twenty miles away, and “<i>Martins
-Gate-house</i>” is shown there still; but extravagance and neglect brought
-all to the hammer at last, and the very name of Martin will soon only
-survive, in its association with the humane Act for the prevention of
-cruelty to animals, which was originated by the Lord of <i>Ballinahinch</i>.
-The Law Life Insurance Company are now the owners of this property, and
-are making, we were informed, very great improvements. There can scarcely
-be an estate more capable thereof. The immense extent of bog-land presents
-an excellent “fall” for the drainer; and a large quantity of it, lying
-upon limestone, would grow any amount of pasture or of cereal produce.
-(The monosyllable <i>corn</i> would be equally expressive, but it looks
-“mean and poky,” as Martha Penny said of the Protestant religion, when
-compared with “<i>cereal produce</i>”) Then there is abundance of manure
-close by, in the sea-weed and coral-sand; and under the soil lie rich
-veins of marble, rose-colour, and yellow, and, white, and green; and of
-which you may purchase specimens from the little merchants who come round
-the car. But where, it may well be asked, are the hands to ply the mattock
-and pick? For famine, and ejection, and the Exodus, have swept away the
-working men; and though it is evident, from the number of children, that
-great efforts are being made to repopulate the country, there seems to be
-no staff on the spot for any large undertakings. 1 But men are to be found
-when they are wanted by master-minds; and the Irish and English labourers,
-instead of deserting for America and Australia a land so full of promise,
-2 would readily be induced, by leaders of energy and capital, to
-appropriate advantages nearer home. The sale of encumbered estates (one of
-the cleverest, cleanest cuts, that surgeon ever made, to save his patient
-from mortification) amply justifies the healthful hope that English and
-Scotch farmers 3 will soon be numerous upon Irish soil, not to become,
-like the Norman visitors of yore, “<i>ipsis Hibernis Hiberniores</i>,” but
-to inoculate Paddy with their own activity and earnestness, and to
-persuade him, just for once and by way of a change, to work in his own
-land, as he can and will in any other.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 According to the Report of the Registrar-General, the
-population has decreased to the number of half a million
-since the Census of 1851.
-
-2 See Letters from The Times' Commissioner, ed. 2, p. 271,
-and The Saxon in Ireland, chapter x.
-
-3 “Why are there so many more Scotch than English? It
-appears that there are 756 'Britishers' agriculturally
-settled in Ireland, and of these 660 are natives of
-Scotland.”—Agricultural and Social State of Ireland in
-1858, by Thomas Miller.
-</pre>
-<p>
-The Saxon says that the Celt (how one despises those malicious nicknames,
-stereotyping hate, and perpetuating a lie, as if there were a true Celt or
-Saxon extant!) that the Celt will shoot him; and, perhaps, he may if
-nothing is done to conciliate, but everything to offend his prejudices.
-Those prejudices are the growth of ages, and will not vanish before slang
-and compulsion, but only before goodness, teaching by example a better and
-a happier way. If I wish to propitiate a high-spirited unbroken steed, not
-warranted free from vice, and can do so by checking him sharply with the
-curb, and by sticking in both spurs, without ruining the horse, and
-finding myself in a position to take an uninterrupted view of the
-firmament, Mr. Rarey and reason plead in vain. John Bull is a magnificent
-fellow, but his mere repetition of “curse the Pope” will do no more to
-evangelise mankind than Grip the Raven's “I'm a Protestant kettle;” nor
-can we specify any signal blessings as likely to accrue to the human race,
-when “Sawney, with his Calvinistic creed in the one hand, and allaying
-irritation with the other,” denounces smiling on Sunday as a deadly sin,
-or goes
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Bellowing, and breathing fire and smoke,
-At crippled Papistry to butt and poke,
-Exactly as a skittish Scottish bull
-Hunts an old woman in a scarlet cloak.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Were I desirous to impress upon the people of Connaught the advantages of
-protecting their feet with leather, I should scarcely proceed to
-demonstrate my proposition by kicking them with hobnailed boots; and
-although bread as an article of food is vastly superior to potatoes, few
-men would essay to enforce this argument by pelting the peasantry with
-quartern loaves.
-</p>
-<p>
-The Saxon says that the Celt will shoot him; and nothing can be more vile
-and despicable than those cowardly murders which disgrace Ireland. But we
-must not forget, in our righteous horror, that our own capital convictions
-are thrice as numerous, according to population, as those in the
-sister-country; and, though this does not denote the exact proportion of
-crime, because conviction in Ireland is far more difficult than with us,
-it may still suggest a wholesome restraint, when we are minded to sit in
-judgment upon others.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER VIII. CLIFDEN.
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>E arrived at <i>Carrs Hotel</i>, in <i>Clifden</i>, between 5 and 6 p.m.,
-and strolled down the main street before dinner. The whitewashed houses
-are much less miserable than the cottages we had seen in the country, but
-we can give no more than negative praise, the general aspect of the town
-being dreary enough. There are happy associations, nevertheless, connected
-with it, for the whole place arose from a benevolent attempt of Mr.
-D'Arcy, once the owner of <i>Clifden Castle</i>, to improve the condition
-and evoke the energies of his neighbours; and though the estate has passed
-into other hands, a D'Arcy still maintains, as pastor of the people, an
-honoured name for charity and zeal. After dinner we had a most delightful
-ramble on the cliffs, which overlook the bay; for <i>Clifden</i> is built
-at the centre of one of those numerous indentations in the land,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Where weary waves retire to gleam at rest,”
- </pre>
-<p>
-and which give the name <i>Connamara</i>, i.e., “<i>the bays of the sea</i>.”
- It was one of those evenings, sunlit and serene, which whisper gratitude
-and peace. There seemed to be a glad smile on land and sea, as the golden
-light fell in soft splendour on the purple hills, and the pleasant breeze
-awoke upon the waters [Greek passage] 1
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Thus prettily transferred by the Irish poet, Moore:—
-
-“Like any fair lake that the breeze is upon,
-While it breaks into dimples, and laughs in the sun.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-(Yes, good critic, I know it is only a school-boy's quotation, but it is
-too beautiful to be ever quite used-up, and is at all events, excusable in
-an undergraduate, “taking up,” among other books for his Degree, the
-sublime tragedy of <i>Prometheus Bound.</i>) There was no sound except the
-curlew's note, when suddenly we heard, far down from the sea below us, the
-loud splash of water, and voices singing, amid merry laughter, strange
-songs in an unknown tongue.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0015" id="linkimage-0015"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/101m.jpg" alt="101m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/101.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-Gracious Heavens, what were we to see! We were on Irish ground; the
-stillness and the solitude, so wildly broken, encouraged all our
-superstitious fancies; and everything we had read or heard of Bogies,
-Banshees, Kelpies, and Co., came back to our astonised souls. Were we,
-really, to witness something supernatural at last, something, which, when
-we got home, should make the teeth of our neighbours chatter, and cause
-the hair to stand up on our relations' heads?
-</p>
-<p>
-Perhaps, we were to contemplate the merman bold, playing—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“With the mermaids, in and out of the rocks,
-Dressing their hair with the white sea-flower,
-And holding them back by their flowing locks.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-With beating hearts and bated breath, we crawled to the edge of the
-precipice, and there saw, to our intense delight, four of the jolliest
-constables in the world, swimming, diving, floating, spluttering,
-shouting, and singing, until one longed to run back a few yards, plunge
-in, like Cassius, without undressing, and join in their jolly gymnastics.
-Really, they are glorious fellows! Were I to undertake any distant or
-dangerous expedition (and indeed, Frank and I have been so much gratified
-by our sailor-like deportment, between Holyhead and Kingstown, that we
-think seriously of going round the world in a yacht), I should vastly like
-to take half a dozen of them with me; and I should not be the first who
-had so thought and acted.
-</p>
-<p>
-Walking on, we came in sight of <i>Clifden Castle</i>, a good-looking
-modern residence, lying low in the valley, and well screened by timber
-from the rough sea-wind. Here the view is beautiful exceedingly, and we
-sat among the heather, and gazed upon it,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“till the sun
-Grew broader toward his death, and fell; and all
-The rosy heights came out above the lawns.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Then we returned to the hotel, and there found our friend the cutler
-considerably advanced in liquor, making a most disconnected oration to a
-select audience, in which, among many other statements unhappily
-forgotten, he informed us:—“That he was hopen to show pigeons,
-either Turbits, Pouters, or Short-faced Mottles, against any man in
-Hengland, bar two; that Ireland was nothing but a big bog, and he should
-rather expect as ow no party, as wasn't a snipe, would ever come there
-twice; that he would play hany gent, as was agreeable so to do, either at
-quoits or skittles, for the valley of a new 'at;” (being rather a dab with
-the discus, I was about to accept his challenge, when the darkness of the
-night and absence of the implements struck me as being “staggerers” not to
-be surmounted, and therefore I held my peace); “that, has no party seem'd
-hup to nothing, he should beg to propose 'ealth and prosperity to the firm
-of Messrs. Strop and Blades (I'm Blades); and should conclude by
-hexpressing his ope, that the cock-eyed gent in the corner would henliven
-the meeting with a comic song.” The proprietor of the insurbordinate eye
-having very briefly expressed himself to the effect, that he would see the
-company consigned to perdition, rather than indulge it with mirthful
-music, Mr. Blades commenced a concert on his own account; and we ventured
-to go to bed, in spite of the singer's solemn warning that any person
-retiring, in a state of sobriety, to his couch, would “fall as the leaves
-do, fall as the leaves do, fall as the leaves do, that die in October.”
- </p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<p>
-Nemesis was the daughter of Nox; and poor Blades looked miserably ill,
-when he came down next morning to breakfast—no, not to break fast,
-but only to wish he could. At daybreak, we had heard sounds of soda-water,
-but Schweppe had striven in vain. The fact is, that whiskey, like love,
-can “brook no rival near its throne,” and Kinahan, and Bass, and Guinness
-were at war all over Blades. We scarcely knew him again, as he sat in
-rueful contemplation of an egg, which he had accepted, hoping against
-hope, but had now no strength to crack:—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“For his heart was hot and restless,
-And his life was full of care;
-And the burden laid upon him
-Seemed greater than he could bear.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Had he been Tyndarus, and the egg before him one of Leda's, he could not
-have looked at it with a more fixed and mystified expression; or he might
-have been reflecting sorrowfully upon that fatal goose egg, which, long
-before the Norman Conquest, had wrought such woes on Ireland. I will
-venture, at all events, to repeat the legend. Domhnall, the king, having
-invited Congal, his foster-son, together with the principal swells of his
-court, to a grand banquet (though he had been warned by Maelcobba, a
-celebrated monk and fortune-teller, to do nothing of the kind), sent out
-his purveyors to procure a supply of delicacies in general, and of goose
-eggs in particular. Now there lived, in the county of Meath, a Bishop Ere
-of Slaine, who spent his days in the river Boyne, immersed up to his
-arm-pits, and reading his psalter, which lay upon the bank. Whether he
-entertained hopes of being translated to the see of Bath and Wells, and
-was under a course of preparatory training, or whether he had a prescient
-belief in the water-cure, or whatever his motives may have been, thus he
-passed his mornings (to the immense edification of his diocese, and with
-nothing on but his mitre), and then went home to dine. One evening he had
-hurried to his hermitage, a little ruffled in temper, having been very
-disrespectfully accosted during the day by some boatmen, who had hit him
-in the eye with a decayed pear, but consoling himself with the prospect of
-his favourite dinner, namely, “a goose egg and a half, and three sprigs of
-watercresses,” when he was dismayed to find his establishment (which
-consisted of an elderly charwoman) in tears, and to hear that the king's
-purveyors had been, and poached his eggs for him. Then (the chroniclers
-proceed to tell) the Bishop he “cussed, and eke swore hee, verrye
-bewtifulle.” He excommunicated the auxiliary gander and put the goose
-under a perpetual pip, “bekase,” said he, “if they'd niver layed them, and
-she (the charwoman) had only popped them under the bedclothes, he'd bet
-six to four they'd niver been found.” But he was grandest of all, when he
-cursed the eggs, shell, white, and yolk, solemnly imploring complete and
-speedy suffocation upon any party who should stick a spoon in them. And
-his anathemas, we read, were so far fruitful, that on the night of the
-King's banquet, Congal's goose egg changed, as he was gloating over it,
-into a common hen egg, whereupon he was so greatly exasperated, that he
-felt himself under the necessity of slashing at his neighbours
-indiscriminately with a drawn sword; a general battle ensued; and “Ireland
-was not for one night thenceforward in the enjoyment of peace or
-tranquillity.” 1
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 From The Banquet of Dun na-gedh, and the Battle of Magh
-Rath. Translated from the original Irish by John O'Donovan.
-Printed for the Irish Archaeological Society.
-</pre>
-<p>
-Blades, I say, might have been meditating mournfully on this accursed egg,
-but, whether or no, there he sat; and Melancholy marked him for her own.
-<i>Quantum mutatus!</i> The remains of a fire balloon, soaked and rusting
-in some long damp grass, not less resemble the gaudy globe, which went up
-yesternight; and never can I obliviate the agony of his expression, as the
-waiter presented a large dish of bacon in close proximity to his nose.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“A moment o'er his face
-A tablet of unutterable thoughts was traced,
-And then,” with a groan, which won all our sympathy, “<i>abiit,
-excessif, evasit, erupi</i>, Anglicé, poor Blades, he bolted!
-</pre>
-<p>
-We also, having contributed to Mr. Carr's Album autographs, which will, no
-doubt, be ultimately sold at sixty guineas a-piece, (say pounds, if you
-take the pair) proceeded by the car to <i>Kylemore</i>.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0016" id="linkimage-0016"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/109m.jpg" alt="109m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/109.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER IX. KYLEMORE.
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE scenery on leaving <i>Clifden</i> is for a time bleak and monotonous,
-but soon becomes varied and beautiful. You pass, by <i>Streamstown</i> and
-<i>Ballinakill</i>, through the pleasant village with its pretty cottages,
-fuchsia-hedges, and general look of neatness and comfort, which it owes to
-Mr. Ellis, an English resident, and who, (so it was told to me, as our
-friend Herodotus hath it) is much respected, although a Quaker, by the
-Roman Catholics around. Between this place and <i>Kylemore</i>, you enter
-upon one of the grandest scenes, to my taste, to be found in all <i>Connamara</i>,
-a kind of mountain pass, with the rocks rising to a great height, in huge
-blocks and broken masses, piled one above another, and sometimes jutting
-over the road in fearful contiguity, densely timbered from base to summit,
-the gray stone contrasting beautifully with the bright green foliage of
-the trees. Here the eagles build, and had become so numerous, (so our
-driver said), that the owner had had recourse to <i>poison</i>. It sounded
-awfully in our ears, like trapping a fox or shooting an albatross; and,
-surely, if the king of birds must be slain (and I cannot deny that his
-majesty's conduct, in perpetually flying off with lambs, is open to some
-criticism) he might fall more nobly to the rifle of the sportsman.
-</p>
-<p>
-We reached the solitary inn by <i>Kylemore Lake</i> for luncheon; and I
-purposely make these memoranda about meals, and take my time from the
-kitchen clock, because the delightful air of <i>Connamara</i> very
-speedily induces that vacuum, which nature and the tourist yearn to fill.
-So Frank and I danced in triumph around our undisputed lobster, Blades
-languishing at <i>Clifden</i>, and a fellow passenger, who had stopped at
-<i>Kylemore</i>, and whom, being almost hairless, we distinguished as
-“Balder the Beautiful,” having previously lunched, as we came along, upon
-the largest biscuit I ever met with, and which, when he first produced it,
-we both of us mistook for a Fox-and-Goose board. Contemplating the shell
-and other débris, in a state of placid plethora, and reflecting, in a
-spirit of tooth-pick philosophy, what a glorious economy it would be for
-us undergraduates, and what a grim despair for the tailors, if we, like
-the lobster, could annually cast our clothing, and reappear, as he does,
-in customary suit of solemn black, without any pecuniary investment,—I
-was startled by the wild conduct of Francis, who, suddenly springing from
-his chair, and favouring me with a slap upon the back, which immediately
-induced a determination of bitter beer to the head, exclaimed, at the very
-apex of his voice, “<i>And now, old cock, for a salmon!</i>” Forthwith he
-entered into solemn consultation with our worthy host, Mr. Duncan, and
-produced for his inspection a small library of Fly-books. Alas, the
-inspector looked grave and shook his head, as an examiner surveying infirm
-Latin. “One or two <i>might</i> raise a fish;” but this was said in a
-tone, which quite convinced me, that, unless Frank should come across a
-salmon, which happened to be helplessly drunk, his entomological specimens
-would be treated with most profound contempt. What was to be done? Mr.
-D.'s own flies had been stolen, during a recent illness, by his visitors;
-and, indeed, as they were kept, with true Irish liberality, in the hall of
-the inn, one can scarcely wonder at the felonious fact. But he was
-determined, the weather being most propitious, and the lake full of
-“fish,” (not to mention the white trout, of which there is abundance) that
-Frank should not be disappointed, and forthwith commenced the operation,
-most interesting to me who had never seen it, of “tying a fly.” He began
-with a bare hook, a piece of fishing gut, and a few bits of silk and
-feathers; and lo, in about three minutes, there issued from his consummate
-manipulation a gorgeous fly, so beautiful, and, withal, so plump and
-appetising, that for a salmon to see it was to look and die. Then armed
-with a gaff, which would have landed a sturgeon, or made a glorious
-pastoral staff for His Grace the Archbishop of Brobdingnag, and which was
-borne before him, as the crozier of Saint Grellen was carried before the
-tribes of Hy-Many, when, ages ago, they conquered here in Connaught, away
-went Frank to his boat; and I, rodless, to wander, wondering, among the
-great mountains and to cull a bouquet of ferns and flowers. This I had
-just arranged satisfactorily, and was thinking how admirably that little
-wayside rush (<i>epiphorum</i>), with its snow-white silky flag, would
-serve for some Lilliputian clerk of the course to drop before a ruck of
-fairy jocks, and start them for a Queen Mab's Plate, when a ringing shout
-in the distance, which might have been emitted by a triumphant fox-hunter,
-or by an Indian scalping his foe, drew my attention to the lake, and I
-could see dear old Frank standing in the boat, and holding up a glorious
-salmon, with its silver scales glittering in the sun.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0017" id="linkimage-0017"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/114m.jpg" alt="114m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/114.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-Hurrying back, I was just in time to meet the conquering hero as he came
-ashore; and I am quite sure that neither Julius Cæsar, nor any other human
-being, ever landed with greater dignity. Had he been coming to weigh after
-winning “the Liverpool,” or into the Pavilion at Lords' after an innings
-of five hundred, he could not have looked more happy and glorious, and I
-felt it a privilege to strew the path he trod upon with three bits of
-heather and my pocket-handkerchief.
-</p>
-<p>
-There was an amusing little dialogue, as he left his bark:—
-</p>
-<p>
-“Boatman!” quoth the illustrious fisherman, “how much is the boat?”
- </p>
-<p>
-“Sure, your onour, the boat'll be in the bill. Your onour'll give the
-boatman what you please.”
- </p>
-<p>
-“But what is generally given!”
- </p>
-<p>
-“Well, your 'onour, some'll give two shillings, and some eighteen pince.
-<i>A tailor'd be for giving eighteen pince</i>.”
- </p>
-<p>
-How much Frank gave, I know not; but from the expression of satisfaction,
-which brightened the faces of his aquatic friends, I infer that he
-exceeded in munificence a whole street of tailors. And, indeed, he was
-bound so to do, since, in our eyes, “was never salmon yet that shone so
-fair,” as we bore it in triumph to our inn; and I sang, in the joy of my
-heart, to the
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-They may rail at this land, they may slander and slang it,
-But we've found it a land to admire and enjoy;
-And until they convince us <i>au contraire</i>, why, hang it,
-We will speak as we find, won't we, Frank, my dear boy?
-
-<i>Air “They may rail at this Life.”</i>
-
-So long as Kylemore has such lakes and such fishing,
-As from Duncan's Hotel at this moment we see,
-And of salmon for dinner we bring such a dish in,—
-<i>Connamara's</i> the planet for you, Frank, and me!
-</pre>
-<p>
-So we carried it to the kitchen, where it cost my friend no little effort
-to transfer his captive to the cook; and I am quite convinced, that could
-he have escaped ridicule, he would have preferred to take that fish to bed
-with him. I am glad he did not; for a firmer, flakier, curdier salmon
-never gladdened a <i>table d'hôte</i>, and there were “lashings and
-lavings” for our party of eight, when we met at dinner that evening.
-</p>
-<p>
-After the banquet, Frank caused us to be rowed in triumph over the scene
-of his victory, sitting in the stern with an enormous regalia, and
-surveying the waters with a grand complacency, which made me feel myself
-quite contemptible. Very different would my sensations have been, had I
-been then acquainted with the fact, which my friend subsequently revealed
-to me, that he had hooked and <i>lost</i> two much finer fish than that on
-which we dined.
-</p>
-<p>
-The boatmen—one of whom, from his sapient and solemn manner, had the
-sobriquet of Lord Bacon; and the other, a fine, cheery young fellow,
-wearing his rightful appellation of Johnny Joyce—joined us in our
-tobacco and talk, “turning to mirth all things of earth, as only” Irishmen
-can. When two of the visitors came out of the inn, lingered a few seconds
-in conversation at the gate, and then started for their evening walk, in
-opposite directions, as Englishmen are wont,—“Bedad,” said my Lord
-Bacon, “the gentlemen have quarrelled, more's the pity. Sure, one of 'em
-has been ating the biggest dinner, and made the other jealous. <i>That's</i>
-the jealous one,” he continued, pointing to our friend Balder the
-Beautiful, “there's something in <i>the set of his back</i>, which says
-that he is disappointed.” And there really was a misanthropic expression,
-to be observed upon the shoulders in question, which we might not
-otherwise have noticed, but which was immediately patent to an Irishman,
-who detects more quickly, and ridicules more cleverly, though he cannot
-despise more heartily than we do, any exposition of a sulky temperament. I
-remember going to a horse-fair with Paddy O'Hara, of Merton, and that we
-overtook on the road an agriculturist of a staid and sullen deportment. He
-was riding by a rustic groom who led a handsome, but somewhat
-heavy-looking horse, too good for harness, but scarcely good enough for
-hunting, though the farmer evidently regarded him as quite the animal for
-High Leicestershire. Well, we pulled up the tandem, that we might examine
-the tit (thinking ourselves amazingly knowing in horse-flesh, as
-undergraduates do), and O'Hara led off with a “Good morning!”
- </p>
-<p>
-“Good morning,” replied Agricola, but very sternly.
-</p>
-<p>
-“It's lonely your horse is looking this morning, sir,” continued Pat, as
-serious as a mute.
-</p>
-<p>
-“Don't know what you mean,” said the farmer.
-</p>
-<p>
-“Oh, sure,” replied O'Hara, with an expression of intense grief, as though
-his heart bled for the poor quadruped, “it's desolate, and melancholy, and
-beraved he's looking, and very, very lonely—<i>without the plough!</i>”
- </p>
-<p>
-And he blew such a blast upon our long horn, as made the welkin ring; and
-the big horse, he pranced and reared, and the farmer and his man they
-blasphemed in unison, as we sped merrily onwards.
-</p>
-<p>
-As we had some thoughts of spending a day at a place in this neighbourhood
-called <i>Coolna Carton</i>, we asked Johnny Joyce if there was much to
-see there. And the answer which we got was “<i>Divil a taste!</i>”
- </p>
-<p>
-“But surely,” we remonstrated, “there is wild mountain and lake scenery?”
- </p>
-<p>
-“Oh, faith,” said Johnny, “there's mountains and sthrames, <i>if it's the
-likes o' them</i> that ye're wanting;” and he looked at us, as though he
-would have added, “but you, surely, cannot be such fools!”
- </p>
-<p>
-Ah, Johnny Joyce! there's a homily for us all in that “<i>divil a taste!</i>”
- The beautiful, so close to us, over head, under foot, we prize not; the
-great hills are voiceless to the mountaineer; and the lowlander sees no
-loveliness in valleys thick with corn. Ashore, we sigh for the wild
-magnificence of ocean; and, at sea, our unquiet spirit yearns for the
-landscape's rest and peace. Let us ask for eyes to read, and loving hearts
-to understand, the declarations of wisdom and of goodness God-written
-everywhere!
-</p>
-<p>
-We spent a pleasant evening in the common-room of our inn. There was,
-among others, a landscape-painter, who, manfully confessing that he “could
-do nothing with <i>Connamara</i>,” showed us, nevertheless, some very
-interesting sketches; and there was a clever, merry, young graduate, of
-our sister university at Dublin, as full of good sense as good humour. He
-told us, as we sipped our punch, how that whiskey derived its name from
-the Irish <i>uiske</i>, the water; “the only water,” quoth he, “that's
-good for a gentleman to drink;” how that <i>usquebaugh</i> meant “water of
-life,” as <i>aqua vitae</i> in Latin, and <i>eau de vie</i> in French; and
-how this reminded him that the <i>Phoenix Park</i> in Dublin, derived its
-name from <i>Finniske</i>, or <i>Fionuisge, fair-water,</i> and was so
-called from a spring in the neighbourhood, once much resorted to as a
-chalybeate spa.
-</p>
-<p>
-As we became confidential, I asked him what he thought of Ireland's
-prospects?
-</p>
-<p>
-“Well,” he said, after a long, reflective pull at his little, black, <i>dudeen</i>,
-“I am not so sanguine as some with regard to the prosperity of Ireland.
-That which Pope said of man in general, seems to me to be especially true
-with regard to an Irishman in particular, he 'never is, but always to be,
-blessed.' Every history, or book of travels, written no matter when or by
-whom, always has the same moral,—Ireland is emerging from a state of
-misery and degradation—followed by some fine, old-crusted quotations
-with regard to our capabilities, and the wonderful results which might be
-achieved, 'if only the hand of man did join with the hand of nature.'” 1
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Lord Bacon, the original, not the boatman.
-</pre>
-<p>
-“Pity,” I thought, “that the hand of man should be unhappily preoccupied—with
-a blunderbuss!”
- </p>
-<p>
-“No,” he continued, “physicians, Danish, Saxon, and Norman, have
-prescribed for us (generally a course of bleeding and depletion) with so
-little success; the grand panacea, Protestantism, has been administered to
-us,—as gently as a ball to some restive horse, with a twitch upon
-our national nose, and a thrust down our national throat,—with so
-few favourable results, that I begin to fear our malady is chronic, and
-that affliction must be regarded as our normal.
-</p>
-<p>
-“I have heard before,” I remarked, “that Ireland has not been considered
-by her medical advisers to be a very good <i>subject</i>.”
- </p>
-<p>
-“I see,” he answered, “but we are more loyal, perhaps, than you are
-inclined to suppose, and quite as much so as you have a right to expect.
-Some people seem surprised that we Irish do not set up statues of
-Turgesius, the Norwegian gentleman, who favoured us with a tax called <i>Nosestate.
-Money</i>, by which he merely meant, that, if we declined to pay, he
-should remove the facial adjunct alluded to; that we do not paint memorial
-pictures of Prince John and his Normans ridiculing our Irish Chiefs, when
-they came to welcome them at Waterford, and chaffing them about their long
-hair and their short yellow shirts, which, I grant, must have been rather
-funny; that we exhibit no restlessness for the canonisation of Cromwell,
-and make no pious pilgrimages to the tomb of Dutch William. Now, I by no
-means say, with Junius, that 'Ireland has been uniformly plundered and
-oppressed,' but I do say that the bride which Pope Adrian, himself an
-Englishman, gave, with a gay marriage-ring of emeralds, to your second
-Henry, has not been very lovingly dealt with.”
- </p>
-<p>
-“The wedding,” I said, “has not been, as yet, productive of much
-happiness; but you must remember, that if the husband has been harsh at
-times, and disagreeable, the conduct of the lady has been very aggravating
-and suspicious. Hath she not flirted with <i>Monsieur</i> and <i>Jonathan?</i>
-Hath she not decked herself with ribbons of obnoxious hue, and gone after
-strange priests, whom John Bull honoureth not? Could he have foreseen the
-troublous consequences of the union, he might have wished to imitate the
-example of Jupiter, who, having considered the subject in all its
-bearings, devoured Metis, his wife, lest she should produce an offspring
-wiser than himself.”
- </p>
-<p>
-“<i>Pergite Pierides!</i> Go it, Lemprière!” here broke in that boisterous
-Frank, who, I regret to say, has an ubiquitous ear, and a consequent power
-of joining the conversation from any distance, and when you least expect
-him. “What are you two mythological bloaters driving at?”
- </p>
-<p>
-“Francis,” I replied, reprovingly, “your mind, a feeble one at best, is
-unhinged by success and whiskey. Calm yourself, and go to bed.”
- </p>
-<p>
-But he only crowed like a cock.
-</p>
-<p>
-“The fact is,” resumed my Irish friend, “we are too near a great country
-ever to be great ourselves, and are too proud, unhappily, to perform on
-violin No. 2.”
- </p>
-<p>
-“You won't be angry with me,” I said, “if I doubt your ability, under the
-most favourable circumstances, ever to play a first fiddle in the Monster
-Concert of Nations. You may let me say so, for I love the Irish. I should
-be disloyal to friendships, which I value dearly, forgetful of a thousand
-merry-makings enhanced by Irish humour, and of many a sorrow relieved by
-Irish sympathy, if I did not speak well of Irishmen, to say nothing of the
-interesting fact, that, on several delightful occasions, I have been in
-love with your sweet Irish girls. But if I have read your history aright,
-you have never, nationally, shown any ambition or aptitude to hold a
-prominent place.”
- </p>
-<p>
-“Confound your impudence,” he answered, “did you never read in that
-self-same history, that Ireland was once 'the school of Europe,' 'Insula
-Sanctorum,' and I don't know what, before those Danish ruffians destroyed
-the monasteries,—from the purest and most pious motives, doubtless,
-like your own dear Henry VIII.!”
- </p>
-<p>
-“I have read,” I rejoined, “that a Scotch gentleman (for 'Saint Patrick
-was a gentleman,' if ever there was one) preached Druidism out of this
-country, and gave you, in its place, the blessings of a heaven-sent faith;
-and I know, furthermore, that Irishmen, such as Sedulius, your poet, and
-your Saints, Columbkill, and Aidan, and Finian, and Cuthbert, names known
-and beloved through Christendom, have been ever esteemed and honoured
-among the champions of our holy religion; but I am speaking of Ireland
-politically, and maintain, that, even in the brighter epoch, of which you
-treat, say from the fifth to the ninth century, Ireland, socially and
-generally, was in a state of trouble and disquietude. Indeed it would seem
-from your history that until a recent period, which (I say it with all
-reverent earnestness) may God prolong, you have either been repelling
-invaders, or fighting among yourselves, or both, ever since Partholan, the
-sixth in descent from Magog, Noah's second son, took Ireland, with his
-thousand men. Why, even in what you would consider a period of profound
-peace, you have been about as orderly as a lot of schoolboys, when the
-master is absent, or a pack of young hounds, who have got away from their
-huntsman; and suggest in every phase of your existence, the stern remark
-of your greatest Irishman,1 'Ireland is to be governed only by an army.'
-<i>L'Empire, c'est l'Epée!</i>” 2
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Wellington.
-
-2 Punch's version of Louis Napoleon's words, “<i>L'Empire,
-c'est la Paix</i>”
- </pre>
-<p>
-“You seem to think,” he said, “with another illustrious countryman of
-mine, Mr. John Cade, that 'then are we in order, when most out of order,'
-and that Ireland, like the lady in the farce, 1 only 'glories in her
-topsy-turvy-tude;' but when you speak of the schoolmaster being abroad, do
-you not in great measure account for eccentricities, repeating that grand
-enigma, 'What makes treason reason, and Ireland wretched?' and answering,
-'absent T.' Collisions and explosions may be looked for on the Rail, when
-they, who should be its Directors, never come near the line; and in my
-opinion the best thing that could happen to Ireland would be the revival
-of the Act against non-residence which was made in 1379.” 2
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 <i>The King's Gardener</i>.
-
-2 Moore's <i>History of Ireland</i>, vol. iii., p. 113.
-</pre>
-<p>
-“Would it not,” I asked, “be a wiser and more agreeable inducement, if you
-could assure the returning landlord that his plans of improvement would
-not be disturbed by an injection of lead into his brain? At all events, I
-think, we shall see shortly what resident men can do. The estates, which
-absenteeism, as much as anything, has encumbered and finally estranged,
-will be occupied, to a great extent, by their new owners:—will these
-ever make Paddy <i>industrious?</i>”
- </p>
-<p>
-“Sure,” he answered, “we'll be the grandest nation upon earth, the moment
-we get a taste of encouragement. Meanwhile I'll concede, that we're a
-trifle awkward to manage, and, when we're not famished by dearth of food,
-nor depressed by a drought of whiskey, that we're mighty fond of a
-scrimmage. And you'll allow, I take it, that no men fight in a gentaler
-form than we do: your Irish regiments have done you good service on the
-battle-field, to say nothing of our having supplied you with the grandest
-warrior of your history. And long may we fight, side by side, and keep out
-of all hot water, but <i>this</i>,” and he touched my glass with his own,
-and sang with a voice so pliable and mellow, that even the knight of the
-surly shoulders,—whom we also named Thersites, described by Homer as
-“the ugliest chap of all who came to Troy,”—smiled and nodded in
-accompaniment,—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“O quam bonum est!
-O quam jucundum est!
-Poculis fraternis gaudere!”
- </pre>
-<p>
-And so we became, as Dennis O'Shaughnessy 1 bids, the “sextons to
-animosity and care;” and having buried them decently, were going to bed,
-when dulcet notes from a musical instrument, which the performer thereupon
-alluded to as his “feelute,” and which was joyously warbling an Irish jig,
-attracted us to the kitchen. And what mortal man “that hadn't wooden
-legs,” could see blushing Biddy Joyce footing it merrily, and not feel
-himself as irresistibly disposed to dance, as a nigger when he hears a
-fiddle? In thirty seconds Frank and I were involved in a series of such
-swift, untiring saltations, as the world hath not seen, since Mevelava,
-the Dervish, danced for four days to the flute of Hamsa!
-</p>
-<p>
-When we awoke the next morning (Sunday), “the richest cloudland in
-Europe,” as Kohl terms Ireland, was investing such abundance of its
-surplus capital in the lakes and mountains of <i>Connamara</i>, that it
-was impossible to leave our inn; and as difference of creed unhappily
-prevented a common service, every man became his own priest, and every
-bed-room an oratory. My friend, the Irish graduate, played some most
-solemn and impressive music, including the “Cujus Animam,” from the <i>Stabat
-Mater</i>, upon a Concertina, which now breathed forth notes sweet and
-clear, like a flute, and anon was grand and organ-like. At a later period,
-a perfume, which, at first, I supposed to be incense, issued from his
-dormitory; but it ultimately resolved itself into Latakia.
-</p>
-<p>
-At last, the clouds began to break, and the grand old mountains to emerge
-from the mist, like the scenery in a dissolving view; the sunlight seemed
-to reach one's heart; and we sallied forth for a walk, the Irishman,
-Frank, and I, as happy as bees on the first warm day of spring, or as the
-gallant <i>Kane</i>, when, after a long Arctic winter, he saw the sun
-shine once more, and felt “as though he were bathing in perfumed waters.”
- The conversation, as we strolled towards Letter-Frack, was theological and
-brisk. Paddy said that “<i>our</i> Church resembled a branch broken from
-the Vine, withering and moribund from inanition;” and we affirmed that “<i>his</i>
-Church was like a tree unpruned, all leaves, and no fruit.” Then he
-pretended to have heard that Mr. Spurgeon had refused the See of
-Canterbury, and that Lord Shaftesbury was bringing in a Bill to abolish
-the Apostles' Creed. “You miscellaneous Christians,” he said, “will
-shortly have nothing to believe in common, unless it be—<i>Dr.
-Cumming!</i>”
- </p>
-<p>
-“And you, magnificent Christians,” I rejoined, “who, by the way, have had
-your rival Popes, and still have divisions among you, you have already got
-<i>more</i> to believe than Scripture, tradition, or common sense
-acknowledge. As to our being 'miscellaneous,' we churchmen have no
-communion with the sects, though you delight to identify us with them, and
-though some disloyal teachers among us may 'apply the call of dissent to
-their own lost sheep, and tinkle back their old women by sounding the
-brass of the Methodists,' 1 our Church, unswerving, still maintains the
-old, catholic faith, and earnestly entreats deliverance from all false
-doctrine, heresy, and schism.”
- </p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Horace Walpole.
-</pre>
-<p>
-And so we went on, strophe, and antistrophe, with an occasional epode from
-Frank (who kindly applauded both parties, encouraging us, more liberally
-than respectfully, with “<i>Bravo Babylon!” “Now heretic!</i>” and the
-like), and only arrived at unanimity, when it was proposed that we should
-return and dine.
-</p>
-<p>
-Our host, Mr. Duncan, told us this evening, with other very interesting
-details, concerning the Famine of 1847, how that, at a public meeting in
-the neighbourhood, he had said, somewhat incautiously, that rather than
-the people should starve, they might take his sheep from the hills; and
-how that, when want and hunger increased, they kept in remembrance his
-generous words, and, taking advantage, like Macbeth, of “the unguarded
-Duncan,” turned ninety of his sheep into mutton.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0018" id="linkimage-0018"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/133m.jpg" alt="133m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/133.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER X. FROM KYLEMORE TO GALWAY.
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>E left <i>Kyle-more</i> next morning about 8.30,—the Irishman
-calling to us from his window, “to give his love to the Bishop of London,
-and to ask him what he fancied for the Chester Cup,”—travelling on
-an outside car,—the most pleasant mode of conveyance for two
-persons, as you are thus perfectly independent, can stop when and where
-you please, have plenty of room, and can converse agreeably. Frank looked
-wistfully back at the lake, like the pointer sent home at luncheon, or the
-hunter you have ridden as your hack to the “meet,” or (a resemblance much
-more to his taste), a <i>belle</i>, reluctantly leaving the ball-room, on
-the arm of her drowsy but determined Pa.
-</p>
-<p>
-Now we pass through the severe and solemn scenery of <i>the Killeries</i>,
-compared by Inglis, Barrow, and Miss Martineau, to a Norwegian Fiord, with
-its lakes so still, and cold, and black, and its mountains so bleak and
-stern, that even the sea-fowl seemed to have deserted it with the
-exception of a single cormorant, who looked as though he had committed
-himself in some disreputable way, and had been banished here for solitary
-confinement.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0019" id="linkimage-0019"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/135m.jpg" alt="135m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/135.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-But the dreariness of the scene was soon delightfully relieved by numbers
-of the peasantry, on their way to the Fair, or <i>Pattern</i> as it is
-called, being held on the festival of some <i>Patron</i> Saint, at <i>Leenane</i>;
-and the striking colours of their picturesque costume, red, white, and
-blue, came out most effectively against the sombre darkness of the
-back-ground. Boats, too, were crossing the water; and a soldier in
-uniform, coming over in one of them, glowed on the gloomy lake, like a bed
-of scarlet geraniums in the middle of a fallow field. Some were on foot;
-but more on horseback, almost every steed carrying double—husbands
-and wives, mothers and sons, brothers and sisters, and for aught I know,
-“one lovely arm was stretched for,”—nothing in particular, “and one
-was round her lover.” The bare feet hung gracefully down, and the eyelids,
-as we passed, hung gracefully down also, and hid those bright Irish eyes.
-Well, “there is a shame, which is glory and grace,” the most beautiful
-ornament that woman wears, and nowhere worn with a more becoming, but
-unaffected, dignity, than here by the maidens of Connamara.
-</p>
-<p>
-Saddles did not seem to be known, and the bridles, chiefly, were of rope
-or twisted hay. As to the Fair itself, I imagine that the meeting partook
-more of a social than of a commercial character, a few sheep being the
-principal live-stock which we saw exposed for sale. Several stalls
-exhibited, for the refreshment of visitors, large cakes or bannocks, with
-currants at an incredible distance from each other (the white bread, <i>per
-se</i>, being, doubtless, a sufficient novelty and treat to many), and any
-amount of apples. Indeed Paddy seems almost as fond of <i>pommes d'arbre</i>
-as he is of <i>pommes de terre</i>; and in Stations, Steamers, and
-Streets, they have all but a monopoly of the market.
-</p>
-<p>
-The landlord of the neat-looking inn at <i>Leenane</i>, a fine, tall,
-manly fellow, reminding us that we had now entered into the country of
-“big Joyce,” came forth and welcomed us cheerily, as we stopped to change
-our horse, and almost induced us to stay and see the fun of the fair,
-together with “the hundred and fifty couple, which would stand up in the
-afternoon for a jig.” But we had no time to lose, having to meet the <i>Clifden
-Car</i>, at <i>the Cross Roads</i>, en route to <i>Galway</i>; and as we
-saw, shortly afterwards, two waggons loaded with constables, who were
-going to preserve order, we did not regret our departure, nor fail to
-congratulate each other on the unbroken soundness of our Saxon skulls.
-</p>
-<p>
-We took with us a new driver from <i>Leenane</i>, who seemed somewhat
-depressed at leaving the Fair, and was the least sociable Irishman I ever
-met. But one does not desire conversation amid this impressive scenery;
-and as the only information which he volunteered was this, that “<i>Hens
-Castle</i>,” near <i>the Mauwt Hotel</i>, was built in one night by a cock
-and hen grouse,—a statement which he appeared to believe implicitly,—I
-don't suppose that we lost much from his taciturnity. The misfortune was,
-that, though his tongue was tied, his hat was not,—an eccentric,
-light-hearted “wide-awake,” which would keep skimming past us, and
-hurrying back to Leenane, always starting off with a fresh impetus, as the
-owner stooped to secure it. As time was precious, Frank offered to fasten
-the article to his head, with a large, gold breast-pin, by way of nail,
-and a heavy stone, which he picked up by the wayside (during a little walk
-of some two miles up hill), as hammer; but he was repulsed with
-considerable asperity. At last, to our great delectation, the offensive
-head-gear was drawn out of a boggy pool, in such a limp and unpleasant
-condition, that the proprietor, after a brief survey, indignantly sat upon
-it during the remainder of our journey, vesting his cranium in a
-pocket-handkerchief, which was, indeed, a sight to see. With a large bunch
-of heather, which, I regret to confess, we could not refrain from
-inserting in the collar of his coat, and
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“dulce est tomfoolere in loco?
-</pre>
-<p>
-he presented an appearance “well worthy of hob-servation,” (as they say at
-the wax-work), and which would have raised an immediate mob in any street
-of London.
-</p>
-<p>
-We arrived at <i>the cross roads</i>, in spite of the Fabian policy
-pursued by the volatile hat, in good time for the <i>Galway</i> car, and
-soon found ourselves leaning over the pretty bridge at <i>Oughterarde</i>,
-and bidding farewell to <i>Connamara</i>. It has been, indeed, a privilege
-and refreshment to wander amid these glorious scenes, where
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Hills peep o'er hills, and Alps on Alps arise,”
- </pre>
-<p>
-and where nature, with a calm, majestic dignity, which must impress, and
-ought to improve, claims at once our reverence and love, awes us with her
-grandeur, but charms us more with her smile.
-</p>
-<p>
-The tourist readily foregoes and forgets the temporary loss of little
-comforts to which he has been accustomed. There is but one really great
-deprivation to which he is subject,—the want of ladies' society.
-English ladies can go, do go, and will go everywhere; but, generally
-speaking, they are unwilling, wisely unwilling, to encounter a wet day on
-an Irish car, or the carpetless, comfortless rooms of the <i>Connaviara</i>
-inns.
-</p>
-<p>
-Indeed, the fine gentleman, who chiefly loves the tips of his moustaches,
-the sleeve-links of his shirt, and the toes of his gleaming boots,—the
-dandy, [Greek word], who can't live without his still champagne, by Jove,
-his soups and sauces, and golden plovers, his Nesselrode pudding, and <i>petit
-verre en suite</i>,—will find sad discomfiture in <i>Connamara</i>.
-Neither Apicius Coelius nor Lady Clutterbuck have prepared the way for his
-daintyship, and when the bacon, which accompanies the breastless fowls,
-shall display its prismatic hues, his forlorn spirit shall sigh in vain
-for the pleasant hams of Piccadilly, while, in vain, he imprecates on the
-unskilful cook the fate of Mr. Richard Rouse. 1
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 A cook, who, in the year 1530, attempted to poison Fisher,
-Bishop of Rochester, and was boiled to death—out of
-compliment to his profession. See Froude's History of
-England, vol. i., p. 288. A writer in the Athenaum (Jan. 13,
-1844,) remarks, in a very amusing article on the Irish
-Census, “There is no cookery in Ireland, because there is
-nothing to cook. We occasionally, to be sure, throw them a
-bone of contention, and they make a broil of it. Their
-cookery goes no further.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-At morn, moreover, lazily turning in his bed to ring for valet or waiter,
-how shall his superb dignity be perturbed to find, that there exists no <i>belle
-alliance</i> between the upper and lower house, and that his highness must
-go to the stair top, and hallo, for whatever his emergencies require. No
-marble bath awaits him now, with its tepidly congenial joys; but there
-stands at his door a little tub, which he contemplates as ruefully as the
-stork of the fable the shallow dish of the fox, and which just contains a
-sufficiency of water to perplex a rat of irresolute mind, whether he
-should walk or swim. The accommodation is, in fact, so limited, that
-Frank, in attempting some daring flight of ablution, broke his tiny bath
-to pieces, and away streamed the water to announce the fact down stairs.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0020" id="linkimage-0020"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/141m.jpg" alt="141m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/141.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-Up came the astonished waiter, and surveying the wreck with a sorrowful
-countenance, exclaimed, “By the powers, your onner, its Meary's
-looking-glass you've been and ruinated intirely!—and how will she
-kape herself nate and daysint?” subsequently explaining to us, that this
-vessel, filled with clear spring water, had served, prior to its
-dissolution, as the mirror of the pretty housemaid. I had my doubts as to
-the tale of a tub; but Frank, at all events, thought it his duty to have
-an interview with the bereaved Meary, and returned therefrom with one of
-his ears considerably enriched in colouring.
-</p>
-<p>
-I strongly recommend the tourist to make himself a C.B., by procuring a
-portable bath of waterproof material, such as is now made for travellers.
-He will then have no difficulty to contend with beyond a slight
-indisposition on the part of the waiters to supply him liberally with the
-element required. “Bedad,” said one of them to me, “if the rain's to be
-presarved, and carried up stairs, and trated in this fashion, I'm thinking
-it'ill get so mighty fond of our attintions, that it'll never lave us at
-all, at all!”
- </p>
-<p>
-Again, the fine gentleman may be disconcerted to find that windows very
-generally decline to be opened, or, being open, prefer to keep so, except
-in case of his looking out of them, when they are down upon his neck, like
-a guillotine. His looking-glass, too, just as it is brought to a
-convenient focus, may perhaps, dash madly round, as though urged by an
-anxiety, which it could not repress, to assure him, in white chalk, that
-it really cost three and sixpence!
-</p>
-<p>
-But what are these trivial inconveniences, which amuse, more than they
-annoy, to “a man as calls himself a man,” and when he has such active,
-cheerful, untiring servants, ever ready to do all in their power to please
-him? The cuisine is certainly a little queer, but he who, with a <i>Connamara</i>
-appetite, cannot enjoy <i>Connamara</i> fare, salmon, fresh from its
-lakes, eggs newly laid, excellent bread and butter, the maliest of
-potatoes (“laughing at you, and with their coats unbuttoned from the
-heat,” but perhaps a trifle underboiled for our taste, until we learn to
-like them “with a bone in them”), together with the best of whiskey, and
-our Burton beer; he who cannot sleep in a clean <i>Connamara</i> bed,
-after a day among its mountains and lakes, nor say with Bellarius,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Come; our stomach
-Will make what's homely savoury; weariness
-Can snore upon the flint, when resty sloth
-Finds the down pillow hard,—
-</pre>
-<p>
-why he's not the man for <i>Galway</i>, and had better keep away from it.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER XI. FROM GALLWAY TO LIMERICK
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>E witnessed at the railway station, on our arrival at <i>Galway</i>, a
-most painful and touching scene,—the departure of some emigrants,
-and their last separation, here on earth, from dear relations and friends.
-The train was about to start, and the platform was crowded with men,
-women, and children, pressing round to take a last fond look. Ever and anon,
-a mother or a sister would force a way into the carriages, flinging her
-arms around her beloved, only to be separated by a superior strength, and
-parting from them with such looks of misery as disturbed the soul with
-pity. And then, for the first time, we heard the wild Irish “cry,”
- beginning with a low, plaintive wail, and gradually rising in its tone of
-intense sorrow, until
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Lamentis, gemituque et fæmineo ululatu Tecta fremunt.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Nor was this great grief simulated, as by hired <i>keeners</i> at a wake,
-the <i>mulieres proficae</i> of the Irish <i>Feralia</i>, but came gushing
-with its waters of bitterness from the full fountain of those loving
-hearts. There were faces there no actor could assume—faces which
-would have immortalised the painter who could have traced them truly, but
-were beyond the compass of art. Two, especially, I shall never forget. A
-youth of eighteen or nineteen, who had a cheerful word and pleasant smile
-for all, though you could see the while, in his white cheek and quivering
-lip, how grief was gnawing his brave Spartan heart (Ah,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“What a noble thing it is To suffer and be strong!”)
-</pre>
-<p>
-and the other, an elderly man, who stood somewhat aloof from the rest,
-with his arms folded, and his head bent, motionless, speechless, with a
-face on which despair had written, <i>I shall smile no more until I
-welcome death!</i>
-</p>
-<p>
-I thought of those beautiful lines which begin,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Thank God, bless God, all ye who suffer not
-More grief than ye can weep for. That is well;” 1
-
-1 Elizabeth Barrett Browning.
-</pre>
-<p>
-and I thought, also, what great hearts beat under coats of frieze, and how
-bounden we are, with all our might, to avert from them these overwhelming
-sorrows, or, at the least, and if fall they must, to prove our sympathy as
-best we can.
-</p>
-<p>
-Many of the emigrants had bunches of wild flowers and heather, and one of
-them a shamrock in a broken flowerpot, as memorials of dear ould Ireland.
-Nor does this fond love of home and kindred decline in a distant land; no
-less a sum than 7,520,000 L. having been sent from America to Ireland, in
-the years 1848 to 1854, inclusive, according to the statement of the
-Emigration Commissioners.
-</p>
-<p>
-It was a strange recollection during this scene of sorrow, (and how
-strangely our thoughts will sometimes set themselves at variance with what
-is passing before us!) that, all the while, the Great Jig was going on at
-<i>Leenane</i>, and the fiddlers fiddling, and the hundred and fifty
-couple footing it, right merrily! Well,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Let the stricken deer go weep,
-The hart ungalled play;
-For some must laugh,
-And some must weep—
-So runs the world away!”
- </pre>
-<p>
-And I, accordingly, having sorrowed, and that heartily, with the poor
-emigrants and their friends, shall venture to refresh myself, and, I hope,
-my readers, with a small historical incident, suggested to my memory by
-the wild Irish cry. When <i>Richard de Clare</i>, surnamed <i>Strongbow</i>,
-invaded Ireland in 1171, one of his sons was so exceedingly astonished at
-the awful howlings, which the enemy raised, by way of <i>overture</i> to
-the fight, that he became prematurely “tired of war's alarms,” and set
-forth without loss of time in search of more peaceful scenes;—colloquially
-speaking, he cut and run. But hearing, soon afterwards, that the Governor
-had silenced these disagreeable vocalists, and that the conquerors were
-having no end of fun, Master Strongbow returned to the bosom of his family—where
-he must have been inexpressibly surprised and disgusted at the abrupt and
-ungentlemanly behaviour of Papa, who no sooner caught sight of him, than
-he rushed at him, and—<i>cut him in two</i>. 1
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Moore's History of Ireland, vol. ii., p. 290.
-</pre>
-<p>
-We left Galway at four p.m., and reached <i>Athlone</i> in a couple of
-hours. If the Widow Malone, och hone, still lives in the town of Athlone,
-och hone, I do not admire her choice of residence, for its aspect is cold
-and cheerless. So at least it appeared, as we saw it, on a day that was
-dark, and dull, and dreary, with rain. We read in “<i>Wanleys Wonders</i>”(one
-of the most carefully-collated and painstaking books of lies extant) that
-the inhabitants of <i>Catona</i> were wont to make their king swear, at
-his coronation, that it should not rain immoderately, in any part of his
-dominions, so long as he remained on the throne; and one sighs for a
-similar dynasty in Ireland, (if the promise was really fulfilled), where
-that ancient monarch, “<i>King O'Neill, of the Showers</i>,” seems still
-perpetually to reign.
-</p>
-<p>
-So the streets were looking their narrowest and dingiest, and the Castle
-and Barracks their greyest and grimmest, as we saw them from under our
-umbrellas; and we were glad to return to Mr. Rourke's comfortable hotel,
-where papered walls and carpeted floors, and practicable windows, and
-duplicate towels, again welcomed us to the lap of luxury. But I felt
-little disposition to sit down in it, mourning for Connamara, gazing sadly
-through the windows of our coffee-room, and esteeming the Post-office
-opposite but a poor substitute for the great hills of Bina Beola, and the
-lakes to be very feebly represented by Mr. Pym's establishment for the
-diffusion of Dublin ales. Nor did sweet solace come, until we beheld once
-more—a real beef-steak. Frank's eyes, in their normal state of a
-mild, benevolent blue, glowed with a fiery greed; and I do not suppose
-that six Van Amburghs could have taken away our food with hot irons.
-</p>
-<p>
-After dinner we communicated to each other the little we knew with regard
-to the old town of <i>Athlone</i>:—how that—the Shannon, which
-flows through it, being here fordable,—it had always been a place of
-great military importance; how that <i>William III.</i> had, in the first
-instance, failed to take it,—or rather to <i>receive</i> it, 1 as he
-would have said, with the exquisite humour, for which he was remarkable,—and
-lost for a time that amiability of temper, which, according to the
-historian, 2 was so conspicuous in time of war; how that <i>Ginkel</i>,
-his General, (why does not history salute him by his more euphonious
-designation as first <i>Earl of Athlone?</i>) had much better luck next
-time, to wit, on the 1st of July, 1691, when, differing in opinion with
-the supercilious Frenchman, <i>St. Ruth</i>, who declared the thing to be
-impossible, even after it was done, he boldly crossed the river, attacked,
-and took the place.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 His motto was, “<i>Recepi non rapui</i>,” which Swift happily
-translated, “the receiver is as bad as the thief.”
-
-2 Smollett, who says, “His conversation was dry, and his
-manners disgusting, <i>except in battle!</i>”—Hume Continued,
-vol. i., p. 442.
-</pre>
-<p>
-Here, feebly murmuring something about “the new bridge, which spans the
-noble stream, being a handsome structure,” we came to a decided check,
-Frank making a cast by ringing the bell, and requesting the waiter to
-“bring in a large dish of startling incidents, connected with the history
-of <i>Athlone</i>,”—an order, which seemed to amuse three
-good-looking priests, (en route for a Consecration at Ballinasloe, to be
-presided over by Cardinal Wiseman), and who were discussing, (and why not?—I'm
-not the man, at all events, to write and tell the Pope,) a small decanter
-of whiskey.
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>The Shannon</i> is a glorious river, broad and deep, and brimming over,
-extending, from source to sea, a distance of two hundred miles, and
-“making its waves a blessing as they flow” to ten Irish counties. I should
-think that hay for the universe might be grown upon its teeming banks, and
-we saw a goodly quantity studding the fields with those (to us)
-quaint-looking tumuli, which, like the “hobbledehoy, neither man nor boy,”
- are too large for haycocks, and too small for stacks. Six miles from <i>Athlone</i>,
-we pass <i>the Seven Churches of Clonmacnoise</i>, (once, as its name
-signifies, the <i>Eton</i> of Ireland, “the school of the sons of the
-nobles,”) by whom despoiled and desecrated we English need not pause to
-inquire; and close to these a brace of those famous Round Towers, which
-have so perplexed the archaeological world, and which, according to Frank,
-were, “most probably Lighthouses, which had come ashore at night for a
-spree, and had forgotten the way back again.” The scenery, which at first
-is flat and uninteresting, except to an agricultural eye, increases in
-attraction, as you progress towards <i>Limerick</i>, and is exceedingly
-beautiful about <i>Lough Derg</i>. There are delightful residences on
-either side, of which we admired particularly <i>Portumna</i>, my <i>Lord
-Clanricarde's</i> 1 and a place called <i>Derry</i>. The view from the
-upper windows of this latter home must be “a sight to make an old man
-young.” The mountains, inclosed and cultivated, have a tame unnatural
-look, as though they had been brought here from Connamara, and been broken
-to carry corn; and they wear a strange uncomfortable aspect, like some
-Cherokee Chief in the silk stockings and elegant attire of our Court.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Would that his motto were the watchword of every
-Irishmen:—“<i>Un g foy, ung roy, ung loy!</i>”
- </pre>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0021" id="linkimage-0021"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/152m.jpg" alt="152m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/152.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-Here and there, in mid-stream, are beacons of an original pattern. The
-cormorants flew heavily away before us, but the heron moved not from the
-sighing sedge,—still and grey as the stone on which he stood,—nor
-seemed to note the seething waters, which swelled around him as the
-steamer passed.
-</p>
-<p>
-Ay, and how touchingly that silent bird, with his keen gaze, steadfastly
-fixed, and his every thought concentrated, upon <i>one object</i> reminded
-me (if, for a moment, I may assimilate the Queen of my soul to a gudgeon)
-of myself; for alas, I was <i>again in love!</i> As soon as ever I set
-foot on the steamer, I knew it was all over, though she was a long way
-off.
-</p>
-<p>
-“It would have been well,” writes Mr. Froude, “for Henry VIII. if he could
-have lived in a world, in which women could have been dispensed with;” and
-it would be better no doubt for the susceptible tourist, if there were
-fewer pretty girls in Ireland. In vain, I groaned
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“O intermissa, Venus, diu,
-Rursus bella moves!
-Parce, precor, precor!”
- </pre>
-<p>
-for she wouldn't <i>parce</i> at any price; and by the time we arrived at
-Clonmacnoise, I was in a state of most abject infatuation. Frank proposed
-to bleed me with a large fishing-knife, and would keep feeling my pulse,
-with his watch in his hand, in an exceedingly frivolous manner. But I
-suffered severely, in spite of frequent beer, until a late period of the
-evening, when my wounded spirit, in the smoke-room at <i>Limerick</i>, at
-last found relief in song.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0022" id="linkimage-0022"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/155m.jpg" alt="155m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/155.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<h3>
-THE BELLE OF THE SHANNON. 1
-</h3>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 The title and metre are suggested by Mahony's most musical
-verses in praise of <i>The Bells of Shandon</i>.
-</pre>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-I.
-
-With swate sensashuns,
-And palpitashuns,
-And suspirashuns,
-Which thrill me through!
-Here in Limerick, city Of maidens pretty,
-A tender ditty I'll chant to you.
-</pre>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-II.
-
-With maid and man on,
-A stamer ran on,
-Where silver Shannon In glory glames!
-Shure, all big rivers He bates to shivers,
-Rowling majestic,
-This King o' Strames!
-</pre>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-III.
-
-There, blandly baming,
-As we went staming,
-Och, was I draming?
-I first did note,
-Such a swate fairy,
-As <i>super mare</i>,
-No, nor yet <i>in aere</i>,
-Did iver float!
-</pre>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-IV.
-
-Her very bonnet
-Desarves a sonnet,
-And I'd write one on it,
-If I'd the time.
-But something fairer,
-And dear, and rarer,
-In coorse, the wearer,
-Shall have my rhyme.
-</pre>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-V.
-
-With eyes like mayteors,
-And parfect phaytures,
-Which aisy bate yours,
-Great Vanus, fair!
-I'll ne'er forget her,
-As first I met her,
-On (what place betther?)
-The cabin stair!
-</pre>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-VI.
-
-Her darlint face is
-Beyond all praises,
-And thin for graces,
-There's not her like.
-All other lasses
-She just surpasses,
-As wine molasses,
-Or salmon pike!
-</pre>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-VII.
-
-Her hair's the brightest,
-Her hand the whitest,
-Her step the lightest,—
-Ah me, those fate!
-You need not tell a—bout
-Cinderella,
-For hers excel a-
-ny boots you'll mate!
-</pre>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-VIII.
-
-With look the purest,
-That ever tourist,
-From eyes azurest,
-Saw anywhere,
-I met her blushing,
-As I went rushing,
-For bitter beer, down
-The cabin stair.
-</pre>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-IX.
-
-Then she sat and smiled, where,
-On luggage piled there, 1
-She me beguiled,—ne'er
-A smile like that!
-And I began to Compose a canto
-On Frank's portmanteau,
-Whereon she sat.
-</pre>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-X.
-
-I've read in story,
-What dades of glory,
-Knights grand and gory,
-For love have wrought.
-But ne'er was duel,
-Nor torture cruel,
-I'd shun, my jewel,
-If you besought!
-</pre>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-XI.
-
-For her voice is swatest,
-Her shape the natest,
-And she complatest
-Of womankind.
-And while that river,
-In sunlight quiver,
-Oh, sure, he'll niver
-Her aqual find
-</pre>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-XII.
-
-Troth, since we've parted,
-I've felt down-hearted,
-And disconsarted,—
-A cup too low!
-And so I think, boys,
-We'd better drink, boys,
-Her health in whiskey,
-Before we go.
-</pre>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 This luggage included a long narrow box, and, from an
-aperture at the top there emerged from time to time a
-peacock's head, exhibiting (despite the presence of Juno) an
-expression of sublime misery. I doubt whether that bird will
-ever take heart to spread his tail again!
-</pre>
-<p>
-“He'll forget her to-morrow morning,” said Frank to his neighbour, in a
-pretended whisper, which all could hear, “and it's better so, poor fellow,
-for the girl's ridiculously fond of me, and I've got no end of her hair in
-my pocket.”
- </p>
-<p>
-Of course, there were plenty of fools to giggle; but I never could see any
-wit in lies. I am quite positive, that, when we parted, she returned my
-regretful gaze, and
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Phyllida amo ante alias; nam me discedere flevit.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER XII. LIMERICK
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">U</span>NDOUBTEDLY, there is solace for the forlorn in the pleasant city of <i>Limerick</i>.
-Justly celebrated for its Hooks, it is far more to be admired for its
-Eyes, for, although the former are the best in all the world, the latter
-are much more killing! No sooner did we emerge from Mr. Cruise's very
-excellent and extensive hotel, than we were attacked and surrounded by the
-lace-girls, in their blue cloaks, drooping gracefully, with heads
-uncovered, or rather most becomingly covered with thick and glossy hair.
-At first, we recklessly resolved to cut a way through with our umbrellas,
-or perish in the attempt, but the utter hopelessness of such a fearful
-step induced us finally to capitulate, <i>the Siege of Limerick</i> was
-raised, and commercial relations peacefully established between the
-besiegers and besieged. I did just venture to inquire what use I could
-possibly make of four superficial inches of fine linen, surrounded by very
-delicate openwork, not less than a foot in width, and was immediately
-answered, “And shure, yer honner'll be for buying the handkercher, to dry
-up the tares of the swate young lady, as is waping for ye over the says.”
- </p>
-<p>
-We would have it, of course, and the “splendid pair o' slaves,” and a
-miscellaneous assortment, which created an immense sensation on our return
-home, and were declared to be both pretty and cheap; for, “when maidens
-sue, men give like gods,” or geese, as the case may be; and such winning
-looks of tender entreaty came from under those long dark eye-lashes, that
-I really believe their owners could have persuaded us to purchase a
-complete collection of poisonous reptiles, or a copy of “<i>The Converted
-Bargee</i>.” They were not so successful with a morose old gentleman, who
-could see no beauty in their “darlint collars;” and they quite failed in
-an attempt, evidently persisted in for their own amusement, to dispose of
-some beautiful little babies'-caps, to a waspish old girl of sixty-five!
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0023" id="linkimage-0023"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/160m.jpg" alt="160m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/160.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-<i>Limerick</i> is divided into three parts, the <i>Irish</i> town, the <i>English</i>
-town, and <i>Newtown Perry</i> (so called after Mr. <i>Sexton Perry</i>,
-who commenced it); and these are connected by bridges, of which the old
-Thomond, hard by King Johns Castle, and the new Wellesley, said to have
-cost 85,000 L., are interesting. The eccentricities of the workmen must
-have added materially to the costliness of the latter structure, inasmuch
-as they seem to have been Odd Fellows as well as very Free Masons, who,
-instead of cementing stones and friendships, only turned the former into
-stumbling blocks for the latter, by throwing them at each other's heads.
-Every day an animated faction-fight, between the boys of <i>Clare</i> and
-the boys of <i>Limerick</i>, was got up (instead of the bridge), until at
-length it was found necessary to bring out an armed force, to keep order
-on this <i>Pons Asinorum.</i>
-</p>
-<p>
-The main street of Newtown Perry, in which is <i>Cruise's Hotel</i>, is a
-long and handsome one; and what's more, you may buy some good cigars in
-it, a rare refreshment in Ireland.
-</p>
-<p>
-We went to see the Cathedral (partly out of compliment to the memory of
-good Bishop Jebb); but its iron gates were scrupulously locked. Perhaps,
-had they been open, we should not have ventured within, for the building
-had a grim, uninviting look, and seemed as though it despised us
-thoroughly for daring to come when it wasn't service-time. I should not
-have been at all surprised, if “a variety of humbugs in cocked-hats” had
-sallied forth to disperse us.
-</p>
-<p>
-One of the lace-girls, for they had followed us, with reduced prices and a
-fresh supply of their pretty work, told us, as we turned from the gate,
-that “during the grate sage o' Limerick there was a <i>mighty big gun</i>
-on the top of that church, that kept firing away, day and night.”
- Whereupon Frank said, that the interesting fact was highly creditable to
-the Dean and Chapter, who generally deputed any hard work to one of the <i>minor
-canons</i>.
-</p>
-<p>
-In which of the sieges did the great gun thunder? Was it that of 1651,
-when Ireton (whose character one never can identify with that beautiful
-portrait engraved by Houbraken, for how could such a noble presence belong
-to a man “melancholick and reserved,” 1 and so wanting in personal
-courage, as to allow Mr. Holies to pull him by the nose? 2) died before
-the walls from the plague? Or did it some forty years later send forth its
-sulphurous and tormenting flames, against “bould Giniral Ginkil,” and help
-to expedite that <i>Famous Treaty of Limerick</i>, honourable alike to
-all?
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Clarendon's <i>History of the Rebellion</i>, vol. iii., p. 362.
-
-2 Birch's <i>Lives of Illustrious Persons</i>, p. 96.
-</pre>
-<p>
-We did not see nor hear anything of the great Pig-Factory, whereat one
-million porkers are said to be annually slain. A stern Hebrew, of a
-truculent taste, might possibly venture to settle in the vicinity; but the
-music must be too high by several octaves for Christians of the ordinary
-stamp.
-</p>
-<p>
-I wonder whether the lady still lives in <i>Limerick</i>, who had the
-passage of arms, or rather of legs, with General Sir Charles Napier.
-Being, in the complimentary diction of her friends, “a remarkably fine
-woman,” or, in the vulgar verbiage of irreverent youth “a regular
-slogger,” she was wont to despise those of her fellow-creatures, who did
-not weigh sixteen stone; and when the little soldier broke his leg, she
-remarked contemptuously, “that she supposed some fly had kicked his poor
-spindle-shanks!” It so happened that, just as he recovered, the large lady
-met with a similar accident, breaking her leg. Napier was at no loss to <i>improve</i>
-the occasion. “Going to her house,” he says, “I told the servant, how
-sorry I was to hear that a bullock had kicked his mistress, and <i>injured
-its leg very much</i>; and that I had called, in consequence, to inquire
-whether <i>her leg was at all hurt!</i>”
- </p>
-<p>
-We left <i>Limerick</i> for <i>Killarney</i> by the mail train, at 11.30
-a.m., entering the main line of the <i>Great Southern and Western Railway</i>
-after an hour's travelling, progressing thereon as far as <i>Mallow</i>
-(the town upon the banks of <i>the Blackwater</i>, with its church, and
-trees, and picturesque bridge, is a sweet little “study,” and looked as
-though the sun shone there always); and thence by a branch line to <i>Killarney</i>,
-which we reached at 4 p.m. We passed through a country (including part of
-<i>the Golden Vale of Limerick</i> 1) varied, fertile, and
-well-cultivated, although two young officers (who looked at us, when we
-entered their carriage at Mallow, as though I were at the crisis of
-small-pox, and my friend a ticket-of-leave man) declared, as they woke up
-just opposite an embankment, that the scenery was “beastly plain.”
- </p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 “It extends from Charleville to Tipperary by Kilfinnan
-nearly thirty miles, and again across from Ardpatrick to
-within a short distance of Limerick city, sixteen miles.”—
-<i>Saxon in Ireland</i>, p. 101.
-</pre>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER XIII. KILLARNEY.
-</h2>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0024" id="linkimage-0024"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/166m.jpg" alt="166m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/166.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HERE are words which, although unnoticed in the delightful treatises of
-the Dean of Westminster 1 (may his fame increase!) have a strange power
-upon the heart,—words which can ring for us, listening by the
-brookside, and in arbours and meadow-haunts once more, the joy-bells of a
-former mirth, or toll above past sorrows and buried hopes their muffled
-and mournful peal. Breathes there, for instance, a man with soul so dead,
-who can hear of a <i>primrose bank, or a cowslip-ball, or a roly-poly
-pudding, or a sillabub, or a soap bubble, or a pantomime, or of Robinson
-Crusoe</i>, and not feel himself, though it be but for a moment, a happy
-child again? And do we not realise, on the other hand, in all their brief
-intensity, our earliest sorrows, when memory suggests to us those solemn
-sounds of woe, <i>measles, big-brother, ghosts, dentists, castor-oil?</i>
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Dr. Trench, afterwards Archbishop of Dublin.
-</pre>
-<p>
-And who (to pass on to boyhood) can ever hear of <i>foot-ball</i>,
-especially if Tom Brown speak, without longing for a kick to goal? Who can
-be reminded of <i>the river</i>, and not remember those summer days, when,
-nude and jubilant, we took first a preliminary canter among the haycocks,
-and then “a header” into the deep, cold stream? or, again, those merry
-days of winter, when, from our slippery skates we took—well,
-anything but “a <i>header</i>” upon its glibly frozen surface? On the
-other hand, who does not felicitate himself that he has arrived at man's
-estate, when he recalls those awful <i>impositions</i> which he still
-believes have softened his brain, or when his memory (not to
-particularise) is tingling at the idea of <i>birch</i>, and contemplating
-a “<i>Visitation of Arms and Seats</i>” long anterior to Mr. Bernard
-Burke's?
-</p>
-<p>
-Chiefly, perhaps, when we come to shave, or, more wisely, to cherish
-instead of destroying (with many a grimace and groan), those healthful
-adjuncts to manly beauty, “<i>quas Natura sud sponte suggerit</i>” is felt
-this great influence of words. I have seen the cheek of a pallid friend
-suddenly to assume the hues of a peony, the rich crimson tint of
-dining-room curtains, at mention of the name of “<i>Rose</i>;” and I
-remember how a Brasenose man, whose fresh ruddy countenance was much more
-suggestive of Burton-upon-Trent than it was of Burton upon Melancholy, and
-whom we called Chief Mourner, because he was always first after the bier,
-would become colourless, and “pale his ineffectual fire,” at the very
-sound of <i>Blanche</i>. Nor do I see any discredit in confessing my own
-inability to hear certain sweet Christian-Names (sixteen in all, but nine
-in particular), without emotions of a troublous, but delightful,
-character.
-</p>
-<p>
-And as at this era, just as in the two preceding it, there are special
-words which bring joy and animation to man (let me briefly instance <i>gone-away,
-mark-woodcock, sillery, deux-temps)</i>, so there are terms of terror
-(e.g. <i>jilt, tailor, Little-Go, lurit-server, poacher, vulpicide</i>),
-of potent and cruel import.
-</p>
-<p>
-I might amplify for my readers this etymological treat. I might expatiate
-on the different effects produced by. the same word upon different minds,
-<i>videlicet</i>, by the word <i>Tally-ho</i>, as heard at the covert-side
-by sportsman or by muff, by the man who rides with hounds, or the skirting
-path-finder who rides without them; but I have already travelled by a too
-circuitous route to my conclusion,—that it is sweet to hear the mere
-names of those things, which are pleasant and lovable in themselves, and
-that to those who have seen the Irish lakes, the word <i>Killarney</i> is
-“a joy for ever.”
- </p>
-<p>
-Coming so immediately from the wild grandeur of Connamara to these scenes
-of tranquil beauty, I think that our first view of the Lakes, as we left
-the Victoria Hotel, was rather a disappointment. The landscape (or
-waterscape?) was so calm and still, that it had somewhat of a dioramic
-effect, and one almost expected to see it move slowly onwards to an
-accompaniment of organ music. But as the olive lends a zest to generous
-wine, even so this tiny discontentment served but to enhance our
-subsequent and full fruition. For, once upon the waters, you become
-forthwith convinced, not only how impossible it is to exaggerate the
-beauties of <i>Killarney</i> (as well might a painter essay to flatter or
-improve a sunset), but for pen or pencil to do them justice.
-</p>
-<p>
-There is such infinite variety, from the white and golden lilies, (which,
-close to land, look like miniature canoes, from which fairy watermen have
-just sprung lightly ashore), to the towering heights and aeries; such
-diversity of tint and outline in the mountains, tree-clothed from crown to
-base; in those “islets so freshly fair;” and in those dancing waters,
-which raise their smiling waves to kiss the flowers and ferns; such
-contrasts, and yet such a perfect whole, of wood and water, “harmoniously
-confused;” such transformations, wrought by cloud and breeze, yet always
-such complete repose; that the eye can never weary.
-</p>
-<p>
-We hired a boat, and set forth for <i>Innisfallen</i>, just at that
-delightful time between sunset and moonrise,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“When in the crimson cloud of even
-The lingering light decays,
-And Hesper, on the front of Heaven,
-His glittering gem displays.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Presently, the moon came up above those lofty hills, 1 and as bugle music
-from the returning boats was wafted over the shining waters, and lost
-itself among the mountains, we turned to each other, Frank and I, at the
-same moment, with those thrilling lines,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“O hark! O hear! how thin and clear;
-And thinner, clearer, farther going.
-O, sweet and far, from cliff and scar,
-The horns of Elf-land faintly blowing.
-Blow! let us hear the purple glens replying.
-Blow, bugle; answer echoes, dying, dying, dying!”
-
-1 In a <i>Trip to Ireland</i>, by a Cambridge M. A. (1858), there
-is written, gravely written, at page 18, the following most
-original simile: “Just over yon steep acclivity hangs a
-crescent moon, like a silver knocker on the star-studded
-gate of heaven, and one can almost fancy some angel-warder
-will, ere long, break the silence with the gracious
-invitation, 'Come up hither.'”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Indeed, you would suppose that Tennyson must have written this
-heart-stirring song at <i>Killarney</i>, did not the engraving prefixed to
-it, represent so different and dismally inferior a scene. To look and
-listen, as we rowed slowly onwards, seemed to be more happiness than we,
-undeserving, could at once enjoy; and it required a contemplation of
-meaner things, to convince us that the whole scene was not, in the words
-of Ireland's poet, writing at <i>Killarney</i>, and of it,—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“One of those dreams, that by music are brought,
-Like a light summer-haze, o'er the poet's warm thought.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-So we lit our pipes, and then the boatmen, whose colloquial powers we
-generally evoked, as we tendered the calumet, or rather the tobacco-pouch,
-of friendship, began to tell us, how, once upon a time, it was all dry
-land about here; how some indiscreet, but anonymous individual had removed
-the lid from an enchanted well; and how the enchanted well had set to
-work, in consequence, and had flooded the valley in which stood the palace
-of King O'Donoghue, so suddenly, that a facetious sentinel had only just
-time to shout “All's Well!” at the top of his voice, when the waters,
-rising above his chin, and entering his vocal orifice, put a stop to
-further elocution.
-</p>
-<p>
-It does not appear, as ordinary minds might have expected, that the
-prospects or spirits of <i>the Donoghue</i> were at all damped by this
-proceeding; and though his property seemed to be hopelessly “dipped,” and
-his capital to be sunk beyond all recovery, he contrived not only to get
-his head above water, but even to ride the high horse afterwards. For the
-boatmen say, that the royal edifice still remains, with all its inmates,
-unaltered and unalterable, at the bottom of the lake, and there the king
-entertains his court, with fish-dinners and aquatic fêtes on an
-unprecedented scale of magnificence, save when requiring air and exercise,
-he rides over the waters on a snowy steed, and turns the whole locality
-into an Irish “Vale of White Horse.”
- </p>
-<p>
-“And there's plinty as has seen him, your 'onnour,” (so said the bow-oar
-historian), “and will take their swear of it—glowry to God!” Very
-little glowry, thought I, from the perjury of these delectable witnesses,
-who must have seen this quaint display of horsemanship through a “summer
-haze” of whiskey, and been very deliriously drunk. But our boat touches <i>Innisfallen</i>.
-</p>
-<p>
-Everyone falls in love with this sweet little island. It has such grand,
-old, giant trees, such charming glades and undulations, “green and of mild
-declivity,” that here, childhood might play, manhood make love, and old
-age meditate, unwearied, from morn to night. Mr. Grieve would, in spite of
-his name, be joyful, to wander through its vistas and alleys green, and
-find fresh scenes for his canvas. What dear little glens, what “banks and
-braes” for the fairies. Can this be Titania coming towards us over the
-moonlit sward, and leaning upon the arm of Oberon? No; it is a couple of
-nuptial neophytes, looking so happy, that, as they pass, I could take off
-my hat and cheer. Ah, if fair <i>lnnisfallen</i> is so beautiful to us
-poor bachelors by ordinary moonlight, what must it be to Benedict, to the
-man in the moon of honey? What must be the happiness of my Lord
-Castlerosse, the eldest son of the Lord of the Isles of Killarney, who has
-just brought home his bride? 1
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 August, 1858.
-</pre>
-<p>
-Were I ever constrained to be a monk and celibate, I should wish my
-monastery to be at <i>lnnisfallen</i>, and I admire the taste of St.
-Finian (an ancestor, I presume, of Mr. Finn, our estimable host at the
-Victoria Hotel), who, some thirteen hundred years ago, selected this
-island for his retreat. The picturesque ruins of an ancient abbey still
-attest, that long after his time, men sought, in this sylvan solitude,
-that peace which they found not in the world.
-</p>
-<p>
-Sweet <i>Innisfallen!</i> “thy praise is hymned by loftier harps than
-mine,” so lofty indeed, that my obtuse understanding is unable to read
-some of their music, as, for instance, where Moore sings,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“The steadiest light the sun e'er threw
-Is lifeless to one gleam of thine.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-And, therefore, in plain prose, but with a full heart, Good night!
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER XIV. KILLARNEY
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">A</span> car and guide, as per order, were waiting for us, when we had
-breakfasted next morning, and we set forth for the <i>Gap of Dunloe</i>.
-Entering upon the main road, we seemed to be in a drying-ground of immense
-proportions, with its perpetual posts and endless clothes-lines, extending
-along the wayside for miles. But it proved to be a continuation of that
-faithless messenger, the Atlantic telegraph, on its way between <i>Valencia</i>
-and the rail. Passing the ruins of <i>Aghadoe</i>, church, castle, and
-tower, and shortly afterwards those of <i>Killaloe</i>, we cross the river
-<i>Latme</i>, over a charming old bridge, and get views of the great <i>Tomies
-Mountain</i>, and also of <i>Macgillicuddy's Reeks</i>. Miles, our guide,
-a most intelligent and civil one, here told us the story, or rather one of
-the stories, concerning the latter mountains.
-</p>
-<p>
-It seems that Mr. Macgillicuddy, a gentleman of extensive estates in this
-neighbourhood, went to visit some friends in England, and took with him an
-Irish servant, more prone to patriotism than truth. Whatever he saw among
-the Saxons was just nothing at all, at all, to what might be seen in
-Ireland. In short, he would have been a most appropriate attendant upon
-that Hibernian, who, being asked why he wept at sight of Greenwich
-Hospital, replied with sorrowful emotion, “Ah, sure, the buildings there
-remind me of mee dear father's stables!”
- </p>
-<p>
-Now it befel that the English gentleman, possessing a large extent of rich
-meadow land, took especial delight in his hay-stacks, and his valet,
-sympathising with his master's vanity (as all good valets should), soon
-led the Irishman to look at the stack-yard, expecting to see him mightily
-astonished; but Paddy, having gazed around with the most sublime
-indifference, coolly said, “It's a nice bit o' grass you've brought home
-here for present use; now let us have a peep at the ricks.”
- </p>
-<p>
-“Ricks!” exclaimed the Englishman, “why these be they.”
- </p>
-<p>
-“Well, then,” says Paddy, “I'll just tell ye: there's about enough hay in
-this stack-yard to make the bands for thatching my master's ricks. Happen”
- (this he added as though he wished to be liberal, and to pay his companion
-a compliment), “there might be a couple of yards or so to spare.”
- </p>
-<p>
-You may imagine that when, in the following year, the English valet came
-with his master to return the visit at Killarney, he was not long before
-he requested his Irish friend to favour him with a view of the haystacks.
-To be sure he would, with all the pleasure in life, and sorry he was to be
-prevented by circumstances (over which, he might have added, he had every
-control) from making the inspection before evening. Accordingly, in the
-dusk and gloom of twilight, he took the Englishman forth, and showed him,
-dim in the distance, this lofty mountain range. “There are <i>our</i>
-ricks,” said he.
-</p>
-<p>
-In that belief the astonished stranger slept; and ever since that time men
-call these hills <i>Macgillicuddy s Reeks!</i>
-</p>
-<p>
-Mr. Miles, in the next place, made our fingers to itch, eyes to strain,
-and mouths to water, as he told of red deer among the mountains, and of
-woodcocks in their season, twenty couple to be bagged <i>per diem</i>.
-Thus conversing, we drew near to <i>the Gap</i>, and to the cottage of
-Mrs. Moriarty, <i>née</i> Kearney, and grand-daughter of the beautiful
-Kate. But it is by no means a case of
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“O matre pulchrâ Filia pulchrior!”
- </pre>
-<p>
-and we did not hesitate to decline the proffered draught of goat's milk
-and whiskey, although we implicitly believed Mrs. M.'s assertion, that, if
-we drank it, we should want nothing more throughout the remainder of the
-day.
-</p>
-<p>
-Here, too, we overtook a car from <i>Tralee</i>, laden with pretty girls
-and a few young men (how we hated the latter for being in such high
-spirits, thought them vulgar snobs when they laughed, and coarsely
-familiar whenever they spoke!)—not from any rapidity of pace on our
-part, but because the Tralee horses judiciously jibbed at anything like a
-rise in the road; and then off jumped the pretty girls, like doves from
-eave to earth, but being, in their peculiar grace and pleasant coo,
-immeasurably superior to pigeons.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0025" id="linkimage-0025"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/180m.jpg" alt="180m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/180.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-At the entrance to <i>the Gap</i>, the scene was a most lively and
-attractive one. Here the cars are sent back, as the journey through the
-Pass must be made on ponies or afoot, and there was quite a merry little
-congress of visitors, guides, cars, and steeds. At length, the procession
-started, and a very picturesque one,—<i>voici!</i>
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>The Gap of Dunloe</i> is a wild ravine, a defile through the mountains
-(on the right are <i>the Reeks</i>, and on the left the <i>Tomies, Glena,
-and the Purple Mountain</i>), which, rising on either side, dark, stern,
-and sterile, with no great interval between, impart a solemn grandeur to
-the Pass. The river <i>Loe</i> flows beneath the huge blocks of stone
-which have fallen from the rocks above—heard, but not seen, except
-in the small lakes which occur at intervals, and which, still and gloomy,
-add much to this impressive scene. One of these is called <i>the Serpent's
-Lake</i>, because St. Patrick, having caught the last snake in Ireland,
-put it into a big box (for reasons best known to himself), and flung it
-into this pool.
-</p>
-<p>
-The most striking thing we saw as we went through <i>the Gap</i> were some
-snow-white goats on the lofty summit of <i>the Purple Mountain</i>; for
-the latter really is of a distinct purple tint (not from heather, but from
-the colour of the stone); and the contrast in the sunlight was very
-beautiful.
-</p>
-<p>
-Frank insisted upon seeing an eagle, and continually pointed to the
-precipices above, believing that he descried the king of birds. Miles did
-condescend to say that one of the objects to which Frank drew our
-attention was not so very unlike at a distance, but that the resemblance
-was lost as you approached the reality—a piece of rock not less than
-twenty feet high. At last we actually beheld a very large bird soaring
-towards us with considerable dignity. Frank was delighted; and when Miles
-uttered the dissyllable “raven,” I certainly thought he would have hit
-him. There are eagles in this neighbourhood beyond a doubt (though Frank
-surveyed it with an incredulous and sarcastic air); but they are not very
-likely to be much at home when bugles are playing and cannons roaring from
-morn to dewy eve.
-</p>
-<p>
-Emerging from <i>the Gap</i>, we were “to save a mile, and see the best of
-the scenery,” and to effect this, we were taken over a country, which is,
-I dare say, a pleasant one for Mrs. Moriarty's goats, but to bipeds in
-boots (and one must be neat, you know, with so many pretty girls about),
-is by no means of an agreeable character. To derive consolation from the
-calamities of others is humiliating, but natural; “<i>il y a toujours
-quelque chose</i>,” says the French cynic, “<i>qui nous ne déplait point
-dans les malheurs d'autrui</i>;” and I found, I am ashamed to say,
-considerable refreshment in surveying the distress of a portly old
-gentleman, who, impinging a good deal on the craggiest parts, “larded the
-lean earth as he walked along,”
- </p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“and panted hard,
-As one who feels a nightmare in his bed,
-When all the house is mute.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-I saw from the knolls and undulations, which diversified the surface of
-his enormous shoes, that his <i>Pilgrims Progress</i> had a good deal to
-do with <i>Bunyan's</i>, although his adjurations were not of that pious
-kind, which would have issued from the lips of the “preaching tinker,” and
-the deities, to whom he referred in his affliction, were, principally, <i>Zounds
-and Jingo</i>.
-</p>
-<p>
-But we soon found a truer solace in the view of <i>Coom Dhuv</i>, the
-Black Valley, and in listening to the roar of its mountain streams, which,
-rising and falling upon the breeze, sounded as though some monster train
-bore giants over the hills, at express speed, with Gog and Magog for Guard
-and Stoker!
-</p>
-<p>
-Lo! the dark valley darkens, and its foaming waterfalls seem to whiten
-beneath the low black clouds; and we stay not to visit <i>the Logan Stone</i>,
-which a child may move, but nothing under an earthquake could dislodge;
-but hasten, by <i>Lord Brandons Cottage</i>, to <i>the Upper Lake</i>,
-where, a boat awaiting us, we embark for <i>Roknaines Island.</i>
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0026" id="linkimage-0026"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/185m.jpg" alt="185m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/185.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-Here, before a glowing fire, a fresh-caught salmon, cut into steaks, was
-broiling on arbutus skivers; and the founder of the feast, an Irish
-gentleman, whom we brought from the shore in our boat, hospitably invited
-us to postpone our luncheon until his guests arrived. Hungry, and anxious
-to proceed, we declined his courteous offer; but we should not have done
-so, had we been aware that he was awaiting the delightful party from <i>Tralee</i>.
-Alas, just as we had commenced our repast, and the boat so preciously
-freighted was descried in the distance, our pluvial fears were realised,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“And, in the scowl of heaven, each face
-Grew dark as we were speaking.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-It was piteous to see those girls come ashore, with the gentlemen's
-overcoats enveloping their fairy forms, and protecting their best bonnets;
-and I never experienced so strong a desire in my life to be transformed
-into a gig-umbrella.
-</p>
-<p>
-Suddenly the weather brightened, but not so the prospects of the pretty
-pic-nic. There was a brief colloquy between master and men, sounds of
-surprise and disappointment, not loud but deep, and then a general
-laughter, but dismally artificial; for the knives, and the plates, and the
-wine, and the bread, everything, in fact, except the salmon, just ready in
-its hot perfection, had been sent to <i>the wrong Island!</i>
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0027" id="linkimage-0027"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/187m.jpg" alt="187m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/187.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-Thither, to our grim despair, went forth the Belles from Tralee; and, by
-the bones of St. Lumbago of Sciatica, I could have plunged into the flood,
-and followed in their lee, had I not been cognisant of a certain “alacrity
-in sinking,” which prevents the simultaneous removal of both my legs from
-the bottom. What would I not have given, to have changed places with the
-coxswain! I should have felt proud and happy as he who steered the
-immortal Seven at Henley, or as Edgar the Peaceable, when, keeping his
-court at Chester, and having a mind to go by water to the monastery of St.
-John Baptist, he was rowed down the Dee in a barge by eight Kings, himself
-sitting at the helm. 1
-</p>
-<p>
-We mourned awhile, but the spirit of youth endures not to sorrow long. It
-bends low, but it will not break. It rises again in all its freshness
-after a glass of bitter beer, or just a mouthful of whiskey; and we soon
-looked our affliction in the face like men, and played the nightingale
-upon our empty bottles. I have studied somewhat sedulously to imitate,
-with a moistened cork upon glass, “de nightingirl, de lark, de trush” (as
-the ever-to-be-retained Von Joel hath it), and the performance was so
-successful, that two finches perched, attentively, within a yard of our
-heads, while the boatmen listened as admiringly as the Australian Diggers
-to the English lark; 2 and a newly-mar-ried couple, deliciously embowered
-above us, conversed as they sat on the green, and said, that “they had
-never quite believed the assertion that Ireland had no nightingales.” But
-Frank, unhappily, dispelled all these allusions, by trying his unpractised
-hand, and by educing such irregular and feeble chirpings, as would have
-disgraced a superannuated sparrow, or a tom-tit, hopelessly wrestling with
-an aggravated form of diphtheria.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Rapin, vol. i. p. 106.
-
-2 See the exquisite description in <i>It is Never too Lute to
-Mend,</i> p. 359.
-</pre>
-<p>
-The trees, beneath whose melancholy boughs we had our meal and music, had
-been disgracefully hacked! and more foul copies of “<i>the Initials</i>”
- were to be found here (with woodcuts, calf, lettered) than in all Mr.
-Mudie's Library. If I had my will, I would teach those trenchant snobs,
-who, wherever they go, dishonour England, to sing their “<i>Through the
-Wood, Laddie</i>,” to a much more doleful tune, made fast for a few hours
-in the stocks; or I would endeavour so far to revive in their breasts (if
-they have any breasts), that Druidical veneration for Baal, which once
-prevailed in Ireland, and which would induce them to cut <i>themselves</i>
-with their knives, and to worship the trees instead of whittling them. Or,
-in illustration of another Druidical tenet, metempsychosis, it would be
-gratifying to see their transmigration into woodpeckers, condemned for
-ever, like the bird in the fable, to seek their food between bark and
-bole.
-</p>
-<p>
-We would fain have lingered among these pleasant isles, green with their
-abundant foliage, and contrasting admirably with the stern hills, towering
-over them, and so encircling this <i>Upper Lake</i>, that you see no place
-of egress, until you are close upon it. As for comparing it with the other
-lakes, or with Derwent-Water, as the fashion is,1 it ever appears to me
-the most ungrateful folly, to depreciate or to extol one scene of beauty
-by commending or condemning another; and when a man begins with, “Ah, but
-you should see so-and-so,” or “I assure you, my dear fellow, this is
-dreadfully inferior to what-d'ye-call-it,” I always most heartily wish him
-at the locality which he affects to admire. What nasty, niggardly,
-uncomfortable minds there are in this bilious world! How many men, who,
-forgetting that excellent round-hand copy, “Comparisons are odious,” are
-never happy but in detecting infelicities, and only strong when carping at
-weaknesses. Show them a pretty girl,—“she wants animation,” or “she
-wants repose,”—“she is overdressed,” or “her clothes, poor thing,
-must have been made in the village, and put on with a fork.”
- </p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Any one who takes delight in such comparisons may consult
-<i>Forbes's Ireland,</i> vol. i., p. 229, or Mr. Curwen, whose
-conclusion is, “Killarney for a landscape, Windermere for a
-home.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-“You should see the youngest Miss Thingembob.” Tell them of a good day's
-covert-shooting you have had in my Lord's preserves,—out comes a
-note from their friend the Duke, who has beaten you by sixteen woodcocks.
-Trot out your new hunter, and “Oh, yes, he's a nice little horse, but will
-never carry <i>you</i> with those forelegs. You must come over and look at
-an animal I've just got down from Tattersall's, by Snarler out of a Humbug
-mare, and well up to twenty stone, sir.”
- </p>
-<p>
-It would perplex even these censorious gentlemen to find any fault with <i>the
-Long Range</i> (which has nothing to do with Sir William Armstrong's Guns,—except
-that <i>the Cannon Rock</i> at the entrance and <i>the Gun Rock</i> by
-Brickeen Island have some resemblance to artillery)—that beautiful
-river, which leads from the Upper to the Middle and Lower Lakes. To float
-between its banks of dark grey stone, from which the green trees droop
-their glossy foliage, though, like the Alpine tannen,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Rooted in barrenness, where nought below
-Of soil supports them;”
- </pre>
-<p>
-and the purple heath and the Royal Osmund, “half fountain and half tree,”
- lean over the brimming waters, to greet the lily and the pale lobelia, was
-a dream of happiness such as the Laureate dreamed, when—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Anight his shallop, rustling thro'
-The low and bloomed foliage, drove
-The fragrant glistening deeps, and clove
-The citron-shadows in the blue.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-You enter <i>the Long Range</i> at <i>Colmans Eye</i>, and shortly
-afterwards come to <i>Colmans Leap</i>. This Colman, once upon a time, was
-the lord of <i>the Upper Lake</i>, and, instead of following the example
-of his namesake, who, as a saint and peacemaker, assisted St. Patrick in
-converting Ireland to Christianity, spent most of his time in quarrelling
-with the O'Donoghue, and in provoking him to single combat. Being in a
-minority at one of these divisions, it appeared to him a prudential course
-to “hook it,” and, closely pursued by his adversary, he took this
-celebrated jump over the river, which goes by the name of <i>Colmans Leap</i>.
-The guides show you his footprints on the rock, and they narrate,
-moreover, that the O'Donoghue, being a little out of condition (dropsical,
-perhaps, from his long residence under water), came up to the stream a
-good deal blown, and would not have it at any price.
-</p>
-<p>
-Now we pass by the mountain of the <i>Eagles Nest</i>, a glorious throne
-for the royal bird, and listen, at the <i>Station of Audience</i>, to the
-marvellous, manifold echoes of the bugler's music, as he wakes the soul
-and the scene with his “tender strokes of Art,”—now wild and
-spirit-stirring, as though kings hunted in some distant forest, and now
-dying, so sweetly, so softly, that we know not when they cease, but listen
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“pensively,
-As one that from a casement leans his head,
-When midnight bells cease ringing suddenly,
-And the old year is dead.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Then our boat, swiftly as an arrow, shoots the rapids of the Old Weir
-Bridge, and, having lingered awhile, in the pool beyond, to admire and
-sketch, we leave the Middle Lake (reserved for our morrow's excursion) on
-the right, and pass by the Islands of <i>Dinish</i> and <i>Brie keen</i>
-to the entrance of the Lower Lake.
-</p>
-<p>
-I have said nothing, and can say nothing worthily, of the trees, which
-grow by the waters of <i>Killarney</i>,—oak, yew, birch, hazel
-holly, the wild apple, and the mountain-ash, with its berries of vivid
-red, growing confusedly one into the other, but <i>en masse</i> of
-faultless unity. And among them, brightest and greenest of them all, the
-arbutus! Wherever you see it, it gleams amid the duller tints, refreshing
-as a child's laugh on a rainy day, or (as Frank suggested) a view-halloo
-in the coverts of a vulpicide, or the ace of trumps in a bad hand at
-whist. Like Xerxes, we fell in love with the arbutus (Herodotus and Ælian
-say that it was “a plane tree of remarkable beauty,” but this assertion is
-self-contradictory, and, if it were not so, I am not, I hope, so bereft of
-the spirit of the nineteenth century, as to care for historical facts);
-and though we could not pour wine in honour of our idol, as the Romans
-were wont to do, we drank our pale ale admiringly beneath its branches,
-and made a libation (principally of froth) to its roots.
-</p>
-<p>
-And now by the lovely bay of <i>Glena</i>, we enter the Lower Lake. In
-front of Lord Kenmare's Cottage, to which visitors have access, 1 numerous
-boats are moored; and the bright green sward about this pretty rustic
-retreat, contrasts remarkably with the under-robes of brilliant scarlet,
-which are sweeping slowly over it, while, from the walks above, gay little
-bonnets flash among the trees, and the cock-pheasants and other
-ornithological specimens, now worn in the hats of Englishwomen, seem to
-rejoice, reanimate, in their leafy homes.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 The public are greatly indebted to Lord Kenmare and Mr.
-Herbert for their indulgent liberality.
-</pre>
-<p>
-Here again, opposite the sublime mountains of Glena, so fairly dight from
-crown to foot in their summer garb of green, we awake and listen to the
-echoes, until “the big rain comes dancing to the” lake, and we row hastily
-homeward, changing places half way with the boatmen, and astonishing them
-considerably with an Oxford “spirt.”
- </p>
-<p>
-It was pleasant, when we reached the Victoria, and had “cleaned ourselves”
- (as housemaids term a restoration of the toilette), to find letters from
-England, to hear that the good wheat was shorn and stacked, and the mowers
-“in among the bearded barley.” There was still a short interval, when
-these letters were answered, to elapse before dinner, and this I occupied
-in perusing the account of “<i>the Prince of Wales's visit to Killarney</i>”
- in April, 1858.
-</p>
-<p>
-Now Heaven preserve our dear young Prince from that excessive loyalty,
-which loves to “chronicle small beer.” The historian told how “<i>alighting
-from his vehicle, the Prince, who seems passionately fond of walking,
-proceeded on foot for a mile or two, with gun in hand, firing from time to
-time at bird, leaf, or fissure in the rock, in the exuberance of those
-animal spirits, which belong to his time of life</i>,” but which must be
-somewhat perilous to those of his Royal Mother's liege subjects, who may
-be wandering in the immediate vicinity. Then we are informed, how that, “<i>His
-Royal Highness and party drove on to the Victoria Hotel, with rather keen
-appetites</i>;” how he visited “<i>the tomb of O' Sullivan, and inspected
-it with much gravity of demeanour</i>,” as though to ordinary minds there
-was something in sepulchres irresistibly comic; how “<i>having drunk in
-all the glories of this wondrous scene</i>,” (the view from Mangerton) “<i>the
-Prince amused himself for some time in rolling large stones into the
-Devil's Punch Bowl</i>” for the satisfaction, doubtless, of hearing them
-“go flop;” how when he went to Church on Sunday, “<i>the Venerable
-Archdeacon read prayers, and seemed, as it were, reinvigorated by his
-presence</i>,” which suggests the idea of a subsequent jig with the clerk
-in the vestry, or of an Irish chassez down the centre aisle; and how, to
-make a final extract, Mr. Carroll, the tailor, presented His Royal
-Highness with “<i>a whole suit of Irish tweed, admirably calculated for
-mountain excursions, and with the texture of which, as well as the fit,—which
-Mr. Carrolls eye hit off to a nicety</i>”—does this mean that Mr. C.
-“took a shot” at the royal dimensions?—“<i>the Prince was much
-pleased</i>.”
- </p>
-<p>
-I remember nothing of the <i>table d'hôte</i> that evening, except that a
-Cambridge man, who sat next to me, remarked of some miserable carving hard
-by, that “the gentleman seemed well up in <i>Comic</i> Sections;” and that
-a boy of seventeen, with a violent shooting-coat, and a few red bristles
-in the vicinity of his mouth, officiating as “Vice,” and looking it,
-mumbled three hurried words as grace after meat, in the presence of four
-English clergymen, and two Roman Catholic priests.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER XV. KILLARNEY.
-</h2>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0028" id="linkimage-0028"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/198m.jpg" alt="198m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/198.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">H</span>APPY and expectant, as two young cricketers, who, having made no “end of
-a score” in their first innings, go forth a-gain to the wicket, we started
-next morning in the <i>currus militarius</i>, or Car of Miles, for another
-joyous day at <i>Killarney</i>. Stopping at the entrance of the town, we
-went into the Cathedral (R.C.), a very handsome edifice of beautiful
-proportions, in the severe, Early-English style. The carving in stone over
-the high altar, in the Chapel of the Sacrament, and especially in the
-exquisite symmetry of the figures in the arches of the doorways, is
-exceedingly chaste and clear, and some Connamara marble about one of the
-lesser altars has a very pleasing effect. Not so the numerous
-confessionals, which, with their new wood and bright drapery, are somewhat
-suggestive of wardrobes, and detract, as novelties always do, from the
-ecclesiastical aspect of the interior.
-</p>
-<p>
-Hard by, upon the hill, stands the spacious Asylum for the Insane, sadly
-reminding us of poor Pugin, who designed the Cathedral; and, less
-painfully, of Swift's last act of penitent charity, the bequest of
-£12,000, nearly all he had to bequeath, for the erection of a similar
-institution.
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Egans Bog-oak and Arbutus warehouse</i> well deserves a visit. Here you
-learn from a ledger, opening, as ledgers will, at a brilliant galaxy of
-noble names, which makes a commoner's eyes wink, how the Right Honourable
-the Earl of Cash bought an elaborate table for my Lady's boudoir, and how
-Rear-Admiral Sir Bowline Bluff made purchase of a Backgammon board,
-marvellously inlaid, over which I venture to surmise, he has ere this
-discoursed in stormy language, when the gout and the dice have been
-against him. Let us tread, softly and at a distance, in these illustrious
-footprints, and buy our meek memorials of Killarney.
-</p>
-<p>
-Hence onward to the <i>Tore Cascade</i>, descending its silver staircase
-amid green trees and graceful ferns,—the latter including, as we
-were told, the rare <i>Trichomanes speciosum</i>. Here there is a lovely
-landscape of the <i>Middle and Lower Lakes</i>, and there were seats
-wherefrom to enjoy it, until those despicable snobs, who had mutilated the
-trees in <i>Rohnaines Island</i>, threw them (sweet gentlemen!) down the
-waterfall. And it's O for a <i>tête-à-tête</i> with the principal
-performer, in the unbroken seclusion of a twenty-four foot ring!
-</p>
-<p>
-But we must think more wisely, as we approach the solemn ruins of <i>Mucross</i>,
-than of punching our fellow-creatures' heads, though even here upon the
-very tombs, the miscreants have been at work,—disporting themselves,
-like filthy ghouls and vampires—and scrabbling upon the stones, as
-madmen will.
-</p>
-<p>
-So much remains, both of Church and Abbye, that imagination readily
-supplies what is gone. Here in the Choir, where that ill-tempered looking
-tourist is reprimanding his wife for giving a beggar twopence, the
-brothers of St. Francis of Assisi were wont to sing holy psalms; and there
-in the Cloisters, where those two gaily-dressed French girls are admiring
-the gigantic yew-tree, and wondering what has become of “<i>ce cher Jules</i>,”
- (whom I apprehend to be a lover, but who comes round the corner, a poodle,
-dreadful to contemplate!) there
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Ever-musing melancholy dwelt,”
- </pre>
-<p>
-and there paced the pale Franciscan, in the sombre habit of his order, and
-girded with his hempencord.
-</p>
-<p>
-Laugh on, sweet Stephanie, joyous Josephine (I heard their names from
-Mamma in search); but be not cruel with your charms, for Love, unloved,
-can still change men to monks,—forlorn and wretched, though in
-crowded streets, as he, of whom Percy sang:
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Within these holy cloysters long
-He languisht, and he dyed
-Lamenting of a lady's love,
-And 'playning of her pride.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-There are some beautiful ferns among and about these ruins, but being a
-very poor Polypodian, or Scolopendrian (or whatever may be the scientific
-title of a Fernist), I only recognised the Hart's-tongue,—with its
-fructification arranged like a miniature plan of ships in order of battle,—and
-of this I gathered some very fine fronds, and put them in my hat, as will
-appear hereafter.
-</p>
-<p>
-Passing through Mr. Herberts beautiful demesne, by his pleasant home (note
-the St. John's-wort by the wayside), his offices, and yards, wherein the
-newest agricultural implements cause one to sigh more than ever for
-landlords, resident and liberal as he,—by the copper-mine, rich and
-productive until the envious waters interfered, we reach the Middle Lake,
-and our boat, waiting for us, thereupon.
-</p>
-<p>
-Tourists, who have written about the Irish Lakes have made but little
-mention of this <i>Middle, Mucross, or Tore Lake</i>. Like the youngest of
-three fair sisters, she is kept in the background by their proximity and
-prior claims, being, moreover, an unobtrusive, gentle beauty, of a subdued
-and retiring air, not demanding the admiration she deserves. But were
-there such a scene of tranquil loveliness six miles from any of our great
-manufacturing towns, it would be a refreshment, and a blessing evermore,
-to thousands of our weary artisans, just as “the Pool,” by Sutton
-Coldfield, (one of the prettiest spots in England) is the holiday resort
-and resting-place of the working men of Birmingham.
-</p>
-<p>
-Leaving this sweet seclusion, and rowing under the picturesque bridge
-which connects the islands of Dinisk and Brickeen, we come once more into
-the bay of Glena, and the “cottage near a wood.” Here, climbing the hill,
-and choosing a position which commanded a most delightful view, we enjoyed
-the sandwich and scene. Descending, we were horrified to hear that
-“whetstone of the teeth,” the bagpipes, droning away close to our boat,
-and abominable to both of us as a dialogue between connubial cats, or a
-class of schoolboys pointing slate pencils. But “<i>Ars longa</i>,” art is
-long-headed; and so we tossed up which of us, preceding the other, should
-go down, pay the piper, and keep him in conversation until his friend had
-reached the boat. This service of conspicuous gallantry fell to me, and if
-ever man deserved the Victoria Cross, I won it there and then.
-</p>
-<p>
-They say, but I don't believe it, that the red-deer, who inhabit these
-mountains, admire this infernal machine; and, in proof thereof, the Rev.
-Mr. Wright, in his Guide to Killarney, quotes the following anecdote from
-Playford's History of Music:—
-</p>
-<p>
-“As I travelled some years ago near Royston, I met a herd of stags, about
-twenty, on the road, following a bagpipe and violin, which when the music
-played they went forward, when it ceased they all stood still, and in this
-manner they were brought out of Yorkshire to Hampton Court.” Next we rowed
-to <i>O'Sullivans Cascade</i>, foaming down its triple falls; and here
-finding some shamrock, and feeling very Irish, we liberally adorned our
-coats and hats with it. To our surprise and disappointment, upon our
-return, the boatmen appeared to be perfectly indifferent to this
-enthusiastic display of their national emblem; and it subsequently
-transpired, to our very severe discomfort, that we had ornamented our
-persons with some vulgar trefoil, which did not resemble the shamrock at
-all, at all. 1 It vexed one's vanity to have performed unconsciously both
-a Guy and a Jack-in-the-Green; and the effect produced reminded me of the
-answer of a Nottinghamshire labourer, in reply to my inquiries concerning
-his friend, “To tell you the truth, Sir, Bill's been and married his
-mestur, and it's <i>gloppened him a good-ish bit!</i>”
- </p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 “We believe it to be an ascertained fact, that the
-shamrock of the old Irish was not a trefoil at all, but the
-wood-sorrel, <i>Oxalis acetosella</i>”—Gardener? Chronicle, 7th
-August, 1858.
-</pre>
-<p>
-Leaving to our right the numerous islets of the Lower Lake (there are
-thirty-three of them in all), and the ruins of Ross Castle, once the home
-of the O'Donoghues, we pass by fair Innisfallen, and, reaching our
-landing-place, separate awhile; Frank starting afresh to fish, and I
-returning to the inn.
-</p>
-<p>
-In a cozy corner of the coffee-room, I began now to transcribe a little
-poem of a sentimental kind, which had suggested itself to my thoughts
-during our excursion. Looking up from time to time, as Poets (like
-poultry) will, when drinking at the Pierian stream, I was much offended to
-see several persons in different parts of the room, evidently amusing
-themselves at my expense. A joke loses its festive character, when it
-falls upon one's own head, especially when that head is profusely crowned,
-as I soon discovered mine to be, with fronds of the Hart's-tongue Fern,—collected
-at Mucross, but entirely forgotten, until, bending lower than usual, I saw—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“frondes volitare caducas.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-I am afraid that I did not wear my chaplet so gracefully as Dante his, in
-that beautiful picture by Scheffer: on the contrary, I felt quite as ill
-at ease and uncomfortable as an Oxford friend, who, having won a
-steeple-chase last winter in France, was sent for by the Préfêt of the
-place, and <i>crowned with a laurel wreath!</i> What a pleasing harmony
-there must have been between his Bays and his dirty Boots!
-</p>
-<p>
-Completing my manuscript, and leaving it in our joint-stock writing-case,
-I took a walk to the Post-Office at Killarney; and I do not think that it
-was at all gentlemanly in Francis to tamper with my poetry, on his return
-from fishing; erasing the alternate lines, and substituting rubbish of his
-own, as follows:—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-KILLARNEY.
-
-When the pale moon streaks
-<i>My Macgillicuddy's 1 cheeks,</i>
-And the day-god shoots
-<i>Through the shutters, oped by Boots;</i>
-
-1 He persisted in addressing me by this extraordinary
-appellative throughout our sojourn at Killarney.
-
-And from sweet lnnisfallen,—
-<i>Jolly place to walk with gal in!</i>
-Which so lovely, and so lone, is,—
-<i>Why, it ain't, its full of conies</i>, 1
-
-Hark! a voice comes o'er the wave,
-<i>Now, old Buffer, up and shave!</i>
-As I watch the Heron's wing,—
-<i>More fool you, you'll cut your chin!</i>
-
-Sailing stately, slowly flapping,—
-<i>Better work away with Mappin!</i>
-Ah, sweet morning's face is fair,—
-<i>Not so yours, soap'd like that ere!</i>
-
-And she dons her summer garment,—
-<i>Get on yours, you lazy varmint!</i>
-Jubilant in all her graces,
-<i>As if going to Hampton races,</i>
-
-Smiling, proud in all her riches,—
-<i>Where's that fellow put my-?</i>
-This good news to man narrating—
-<i>“Plaze, your 'onour, breakfast's waiting,</i>
-&c. &c. &c.
-
-1 Or if it isn't, “Rabbit Island,” which is close to, ought
-to be. See remarks by the Aurora Borealis in the Christmas
-number of the <i>Edinburgh Review</i>; Mrs. Hemans, <i>Racing
-Calendar</i>, vol. 408; and Bendigo, passim.—Frank C.
-</pre>
-<p>
-But Frank is one of those men with whom it is impossible to be angry; and
-if he were standing in his thickest shooting-boots, on your most
-susceptible corn, he would smile in your face with such exceeding suavity,
-that you would almost consider the proceeding funny. So we sat down to
-discuss, in affectionate unison, the delicious trout which he had caught
-(how could I eat his fish and be sulky?), amplifying our ordinary
-allowance of sherry, in honour of the Naiads and Dryads in general, and of
-the Naiads, who look after the trout, in particular.
-</p>
-<p>
-These libations, assisted by potheen and pipe, make us very cheery in the
-smoke-room. Frank declared that I talked for two hours about Absenteeism
-to a Lincolnshire farmer, who was fast asleep; and I certainly heard him
-discoursing, with a mimetic brogue, upon the state of Ireland, as though
-he had lived in the country all his life. So, desirous to keep ourselves
-“within the limits of becoming mirth,” and not to induce that metaphysical
-state, “<i>quand celui qui parle n'entend rien, et celui qu'écouté
-n'entend plus</i>,” we judiciously retired to roost.
-</p>
-<p>
-“That very night, ere gentle sleep,” with “slumber's chain had bound me,”
- and “as I lay a-thinking,” I composed a little drama, for the benefit of
-Frank; and, rising early next morning, brought out upon the stage, or
-rather upon the passage,—
-</p>
-<h3>
-THE BOOTS AT THE EAGLE.
-</h3>
-<h3>
-AN EXTRAVAGANZA, IN TWO ACTS. DRAMATIS PERSONAL
-</h3>
-<p>
-Frank and the Boots.
-</p>
-<h3>
-ACT I.
-</h3>
-<p>
-<i>The scene, like the hero, is laid in bed. The room is strewed with
-wearing apparel in great disorder. The appearance of the candle suggests
-the probability of its having been extinguished by a blow from a
-clothes-brush. Soft music from the Somnambula which changes to “Who's dat
-Knocking at the Door?”</i>
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Frank, (awaking)</i> Who's there?
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Boots</i>. Sure, your 'onour, it's Boots.
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Frank.</i> Well, what do you want?
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Boots.</i> Plaze, yer 'onour, man's brought yer a hagle.
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Frank.</i> Who sent him? How much does he want for it? <i>Boots</i>.
-Miles, yer 'onour, Miles the guide. The man'll take tin shillings, yer
-'onour; and he's an illigant hagle, with a power o' bake.
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Frank</i>. Tell him I'll have it, and let him wait till I come down.
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Boots</i>. I will, yer 'onour.
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Curtain</i>
-</p>
-<p>
-(Pulled aside by Frank, to facilitate conversation)
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Falls.</i>
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Interval of half an hour, during which I go to bed in high spirits, and
-Frank dreams that the Zoological Society have offered him a hundred for
-his new purchase.</i>
-</p>
-<h3>
-ACT II.
-</h3>
-<p>
-<i>Scene, as before.</i>
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Frank, (aroused by renewed knocking)</i> Now then! what the deuce is
-up?
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Boots</i>. There's another man, yer 'onour, wants to sell you a hagle.
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Frank</i>. Oh, hang it! Tell him I've got one, and ask the gentleman in
-Number Twenty whether he would like to buy it.
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Boots</i>. I will, yer 'onour.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Boots. (Returning after a putative intervieiv with No. 20.)</i> Plaze,
-yer 'onour, the gintleman's bin and bought him, and I was to give his best
-love to yer 'onour, and his hagle's waiting in the passage, to fight yer
-'onour's hagle for a new hat.
-</p>
-<p>
-During this latter sentence, my voice, I regret to say, went back to its
-ordinary tone; Frank was out of bed in an instant; and I had only just
-time to regain No. 20, when a heavy boot went by with great velocity,
-falling, as Frank afterwards told me, at the feet of an astonished elderly
-clergyman, who, coming out of his room at that instant, and seeing my
-friend in his cuttysark, evidently inferred an escape from the asylum, and
-bolted immediately, self and door.
-</p>
-<p>
-But sure enough, when we came down to breakfast, there was a veritable
-eagle at the door of the hotel, wild with anger, in an iron cage, and the
-property of a small tourist, who was starting for Connamara with this
-delectable companion, a large Arbutus table, ditto case of Killarney
-ferns, and a hillock of general luggage. With these <i>impedi-menta</i>,
-his estates appeared to be sufficiently in-cumbered, and I was not
-surprised that he declined to purchase a shillelagh, 1 with a head about
-the size of his own, although solemnly assured that “it had been cut in
-the dark moon”—an inestimable advantage doubtless, though to me the
-meaning of the sentence is as obscure as the luminary in question.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0029" id="linkimage-0029"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/212m.jpg" alt="212m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/212.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-Alas, alas! our own luggage is now brought down, and we are awaiting our
-bill somewhat curiously, after the recent revival in the <i>Times</i> 2 of
-complaints, commenced by Arthur Young in 1776, and repeated by Mr. Wright
-in 1822, on the subject of Killarney <i>charges</i>. But we both spoke in
-favour of the bill, and it was carried through the house (<i>viâ</i> the
-lobby, to the bar) without any division, except that of the sum total
-between Frank and myself. You cannot have guides, and horses, and boats,
-and buglers (especially where the demand is temporary and irregular),
-without paying highly for them; but these expenses are fairly stated
-before they are incurred, and decrease materially if you prolong your stay
-(as we would fain have done), and begin to find your own amusement, afoot,
-or in a boat.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Shillelagh is, or was, a famous wood in Wicklow, from
-which the timber was brought for the roof of Westminster
-Hall.
-
-2 In the autumn of 1858.
-</pre>
-<p>
-Farewell, <i>Killarney!</i>—How often, far away from thy scenes of
-beauty, have I, leaning back with closed eyes, beheld thee, pictured by
-memory, and engraved by fond imagination! How often have I essayed to
-realize thee in the subtle semblances of Art!—How often, in the
-clouds of sunset (and here most happily), have I rejoiced to trace thy
-tranquil waters and thy tree-clad hills!—and still, as some lover,
-clasping with a sigh the likeness of his darling, yearns for her living
-self, so long I for that happy hour when I shall return to thee, gladly,
-as thine eagles soaring homeward, and see thee face to face.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER XVI. FROM KILLARNEY TO GLENGARRIFF
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE omnibus took us to the town of Killarney, and there we mounted the
-Glengarriff Car. People do not look particularly wise when seated, in a
-public street, upon a vehicle to which no horses are attached; but we were
-anxious to secure our places on “the Lake side,” and being surrounded by
-the pretty dealers in arbutus-ware (there were two, who, I am convinced,
-could have persuaded <i>St. Senanus</i> to buy a set of blue-bottle studs
-in bog-oak), we did not feel at all uncomfortable. But even Irish cars
-must fulfil their mission; and we started at last, bristling with paper
-knives.
-</p>
-<p>
-Halting awhile, to take up passengers at the Mucross Hotel, we were again
-besieged by another bevy of these fancy timber merchants; and here a
-little scene occurred, which, however trivial it may appear from my feeble
-account of it, was very touching in reality. A woman, who had been, you
-could see, as pretty in her prime as the prettiest of her younger
-companions, but whose beauty was fast fading away, came and offered her
-basket to a coarse specimen of the genus “<i>Gent</i>,” who was seated on
-our side of the car, and who very abruptly, and thoughtlessly I dare say,—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“But evil is wrought for want of thought,
-As well as want of heart,”—
-</pre>
-<p>
-repulsed her, saying, “that he should buy from the young uns if he bought
-at all.” I saw a look of intense pain pass over her face, as though she
-were hurt at heart; and, although the others made way for her, with sweet
-sisterly kindness, when Frank called her to him, and though he bought her
-most elaborate bracelets, and I a box of cunning workmanship, designed, I
-believe, for gloves, but subsequently used by a small niece of mine as a
-bed for her youngest doll, the sliding lid, drawn up to the sleeper's
-chin, forming a counterpane of unrivalled splendour; although, I say, we
-did all in our power to comfort, the storm-clouds, when we left, hung
-heavily over her, and the first rain-drops glistened in her pale-blue
-eyes.
-</p>
-<p>
-Take heed, ye maidens beautiful (I feel a little saturnine this morning,
-and shall put no more lemon in my punch, whatever Francis may say), be ye
-Belles of the Park or the Pattern, to this extremity ye must come at last!
-You, Lady Constance Plantagenet, who promised to waltz with me at the
-County Ball, and pretended to have forgotten (though it was written upon
-those gem-studded tablets), when Lord Hanwell (he has at least three
-slates off his roof, and always went, when in the Artillery, by the <i>sobriquet</i>
-of “Lincoln and Bennett,” being notoriously as mad as <i>two</i> hatters),
-was pleased to invite you to the dance! And you, Susan Holmes, beauty of
-our village, looking coldly now at Will Strong, the keeper, the hardest
-hitter in “our Eleven,” and the handsomest fellow in the parish, because
-the young squire's friend, with the big moustache (Will wanted to know
-whether he came from <i>Skye</i>), made a fool of you at the Servants'
-Ball! You, Lady Constance, ignoring your engagements, and you, Susan
-Holmes, oblivious of the fact that your papa is only a blacksmith; be
-assured, both of you, that the light will fade from those flashing eyes,
-and the roses will be blanched on those glowing cheeks, and that—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Violets pluckt, the sweetest showers
-Will ne'er make grow again.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-What moral deduction can I draw but this:—Marry, marry, ye damsels
-beautiful, the men whom ye love <i>at heart</i>; and so perpetuate your
-loveliness, and live again in your daughters!
-</p>
-<p>
-The cold salmon, on which we lunched at <i>Kenmare</i>, was so especially
-delicious, that when I turned to Frank, an hour afterwards, on the car,
-and asked him what o'clock it was, not perceiving that he was asleep, he
-murmured something about “a slice of the thin;” and the tourist in Ireland
-finds this fish so good and abundant, that he almost begins to apprehend
-“a favourable eruption” of scales, and feels disposed to snap at the
-larger flies which come within the prehensiveness of his dental powers.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0030" id="linkimage-0030"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/218m.jpg" alt="218m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/218.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-The little town of <i>Kenmare</i> is very pleasantly and healthfully
-placed. Mr. Frazer says that the bay, by which it stands, is the most
-beautiful in all Ireland, but we did not see enough of it to corroborate
-this grand eulogium. With the exception of the handsome Suspension Bridge,
-neat Church, and National Schools, the buildings are mean and miserable.
-To judge from the size of the Post-Office and “Bridewell,” there is very
-little correspondence or crime. At the broken windows of “the Female
-Industrial School,” we saw two young girls, of such industrious habits,
-that they had not had time to wash themselves. “The Dispensary,” I
-presume, had cured everybody, for we saw no signs of surgeon, surgery, or
-patients,—only a dingy old hen in the passage, who, probably, had
-overlayed herself, or had contracted that prevailing malady, “the Gapes,”
- the name whereof makes one yawn in writing it. Undoubtedly, the edifice
-which pleased us the most, was a narrow, tumble-down hut of two small
-stories, and one of these securely shuttered, which announced itself to
-the world as “<i>Michael Brenan's Tea and Coffee Rooms, with Lodging and
-Stabling</i>.
-</p>
-<p>
-Leaving <i>Kenmare</i> (and is not that a sweet little cottage, on the
-right as you rise the hill, with the hydrangea glowing amid the dark
-evergreens, like hope in seasons of sorrow?), we met some scores of the
-peasantry, grave and decorous, on their way, the driver told us, to a
-funeral. Whence did they come? Between Kenmare and Glen-garriff we saw
-very few habitations, yet troops of children came running after the car as
-heretofore, amply demonstrating that the Irish Paterfamilias knows more of
-Addition and Multiplication than of the Frenchman's Rule-of-Three (“two
-boys and a girl are a family for a king”), and ever finds himself in a
-satisfactory position to converse with his enemies in the gate. The stern
-Lycurgus, who, according to Plutarch, was so very severe upon the
-unmarried Spartans, that he made them walk in procession, more scantily'
-draped than their statues, though the promenade took place in winter, and
-compelled them to sing songs derisive of celibacy, chaffing themselves to
-music, as they walked along,—would be gratified indeed, if he could
-revisit the earth, and see what Ireland is doing with a grand fecundity,
-for the Census of 1861.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0031" id="linkimage-0031"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/220m.jpg" alt="220m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/220.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-The vestments of these juveniles again attracted our notice, reminding us—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Of love, that never found its earthly close?”
- </pre>
-<p>
-for some of them must have been about as cool as Cupid, and suggesting
-that impatience, with regard to apparel, which characterised of old even
-the Kings of Ireland.
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Henry Castide</i>, selected on account of his knowledge of the language
-to teach and Anglicise four Irish Kings, who had sworn allegiance to
-Richard, relates in a conversation with <i>Froissart</i>, that these royal
-personages “had another custom, which I knew to be common in this country,
-which was the not wearing breeches. I had, in consequence, plenty of
-breeches made of linen and cloth, which I gave to the Kings and their
-attendants, and accustomed them to wear them. I took away many rude
-articles as well in their dress as other things, and had great difficulty
-at the first to induce them to wear robes of silken-cloth, trimmed with
-squirrel-skin, or minever, for the Kings only wrapped themselves up in an
-Irish cloak.” 1
-</p>
-<p>
-This cloak, no doubt, very much resembled the garment worn by that Irish
-chieftain, of whom <i>Sir Walter Scott</i>, when in Ireland, related an
-anecdote, very highly-seasoned, to the Squireen, and who, during one of
-the rebellions against <i>Queen Elizabeth</i>, was honoured by a visit
-from a French Envoy. “This comforter of the rebels was a Bishop, and his
-union of civil and religious dignity secured for him all possible respect
-and attention. The Chief, receiving him in state, was clad in a yellow
-mantle ('to wit, a dirty blanket,' interposes the Squireen), but this he
-dropt in the interior, and sat upon it, mother-naked, in the midst of his
-family and guests by the fire.” 2 After this aristocratic pattern was
-fashioned, I suppose, the mantle of <i>Thady Quirk</i>, of which he tells
-us (in “<i>Castle Rackrent</i>”), “it holds on by a single button round my
-throat, cloak fashion,” so that <i>Thady</i> could as promptly prepare
-himself for repose, as that heroine of whom the poet sings,—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“One single pin at night let loose
-The robes which veiled her beauty.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-There is magnificent mountain scenery, naked as the chieftain, but much
-more interesting, between Kenmare and Glengarriff, so wild and stern, and
-desolate exceedingly, a solitude so complete and drear, that, were <i>Prometheus</i>
-bound upon these craggy rocks, he would be relieved to see the cruel
-vulture hungrily stooping for his <i>foie-gras.</i> Honour and thanks to
-the genius which designed, and to the patient energy which perfected, a
-way over these rugged Alps. Ireland must acknowledge her obligation to the
-stranger, for a Scotchman, <i>Nimmo</i>, made her most difficult roads,
-and an Italian, <i>Bianconi</i>, carries us over them.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 <i>Froissart's Chronicles</i>, book iv., chap. 64.
-
-2 <i>Lockhart's Life of Scott</i>, vol. iii., chap. xv.
-</pre>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0032" id="linkimage-0032"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/224m.jpg" alt="224m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/224.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-Reaching the summit, we pass through a tunnel, hewn in the <i>solid</i>
-rock (why do we use this adjective always, as though rocks were ordinarily
-in a state of fusion?), and leave county <i>Kerry</i> for <i>Cork</i>.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER XVII. GLENGARRIFF.
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">G</span>RADUATES and undergraduates (O my brothers, how gladly shall I meet you
-once again, when the long vacation is past!), did you ever dine, as I have
-dined, with an elderly Don, severe in deportment and of boundless lore,
-who happened to be at once the author of a great treatise on “<i>the Verbs
-in [Greek]</i>,” and (strange antithesis!) of a pretty daughter? If so,
-you will remember that hour of solemn converse, before the coffee was
-announced, when the grave Professor, broad of brow, took you, as it were,
-by the hand up the solemn heights of <i>Olympus</i>, and showed to you,
-awfully admiring, the grand sublimities of <i>Longinus</i>, the sombre
-valleys of <i>Parnassus</i>, and Philosophy's everlasting hills. And
-memory will suggest to you, more happily, more vividly, how, summoned by
-the butler, you at length came down from those amazing steeps, entered the
-drawing-room, found the pretty daughter; and, while papa chuckled in the
-distance, over a play of <i>Aristophanes</i>, easy to his apprehension as
-<i>Buckstone</i> to ours, discoursed to her of the Commemoration Ball, and
-forgot <i>Minerva</i> in the sunnier presence of <i>Aphrodiet</i>.
-</p>
-<p>
-And you, my general readers, you, who, with that refinement of taste for
-which you are remarkable above all other readers, go to Concerts at the
-Hanover Square Rooms in the season, and, out of it, to dingy County Halls,
-whenever the Italians sing,—you, too, must help me with an analogy,
-and say,—can you not recall how, amid all that severe and stately
-music, some plaintive ballad, quaint madrigal, or hearty glee, refreshed
-your weary spirit, and won the sole encore? It was so, at all events, when
-last I went to an Operatic Meeting in the Halls of Crystal; and Alboni
-sang; and Giuglini sang; and of Inis and Icos good store; and we beat
-time, and “wasn't it delicious?”; but no song went home to our English
-hearts, roused us from our lethargic and drear gentility, and made us clap
-our English hands, save the song of “<i>The Hardy Norsemen</i>.”
- </p>
-<p>
-Some such pleasant refreshment, and cheerful change, it is, coming away
-from those barren rocks of Kerry, those dark, cold lakes (numerous, it is
-said, as days in the year), to gaze upon the sunlit <i>Bay of Bantry</i>,
-and the freshness and the beauty of green <i>Glengarriff! Glengarriff</i>
-is, indeed,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“A miniature of loveliness, all grace
-Summed up, and closed in little.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-A miniature bay, miniature mountains, miniature waterfall, a glen, to
-which, as Moore writes of it, the
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“ocean comes,
-To 'scape the wild wind's rancour.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Yes, to the eye all was peace, but not so to the ear, for, when we went in
-to dinner, the noise made by a couple of waiters was something to exceed
-belief. One of them, it was evident, had been suddenly evoked from the
-stables, and had been garnished with an enormous white neckerchief, under
-the idea apparently that this threw a kind of glory over his costume of
-corduroy, and effectually hid the ostler in the accomplished domestic
-footman. His hair was arranged (with a curry-comb, I fancy) to imitate a
-cockatoo, and we were, naturally, jocose about <i>Peveril of the Peak, and
-Ricquet with the Tuft</i>, &c. To hear him and his superior coming
-down the boarded passage with the dinner, was like “the march of the
-Cameron men;” and they ran against each other, from time to time, with
-such a clattering of plates, and dish-covers, and knives, and jugs, and
-crockery in general, as would have done honour to the Druids on a <i>Walpurgis
-Night</i>.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0033" id="linkimage-0033"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/229m.jpg" alt="229m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/229.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-But the Irish waiter is, notwithstanding, a capital fellow, good-tempered,
-prompt, colloquial, large-hearted. I say “large-hearted” because he will
-undertake to serve any conceivable number of persons, and “colloquial,”
- remembering that, when a neighbour, at a <i>table d'hôte</i>, mildly
-expressed his conviction, that one waiter was insufficient to satisfy the
-emergencies of seventeen persons, the individual referred to immediately
-exclaimed from the other end of the apartment, but with all good humour
-and civility, “<i>Shure, thin, and every gintleman will be having his fair
-turn</i>.”
- </p>
-<p>
-Well, I prefer this scant attendance, with all its good humour and
-elasticity, to the solemn dreariness of our English waiter, who has
-nothing to say but “Yezzur,” and knows not how to smile. If the Irishman
-cannot come to you, he will at all events recognise your summons, and
-favour you with a grin on account, whereas the Englishman hath an
-unpleasant habit of affecting not to hear you, and of rushing off in a
-contrary direction.
-</p>
-<p>
-We remained a Sunday at Glengarriff (there is an air of rest and peace
-about the place, as of a perpetual Sabbath), and went up to the little
-edifice upon the hill, half cottage and half church. Indeed, the inhabited
-part has the more ecclesiastical aspect, and I was surprised on entering
-it, uncovered, and with obeisance, to confront an old woman washing
-potatoes!
-</p>
-<p>
-The clergyman, having duties elsewhere, was somewhat late for matins, and
-it sounded strangely to be speaking of “the beginning of this day,” an
-hour and a half after the meridian. But that sacred service is ever
-seasonable, and we were glad, after an earnest sermon, to drop our
-thankful alms into the Offertory basin, though it was but a cheese plate
-of the willow pattern.
-</p>
-<p>
-In the afternoon, we climbed the high hills which overlook <i>Glengarriff</i>
-and, after losing our way, and meeting with an apparition, which alarmed
-us fearfully, we reached the highest point, and surveyed, with wonder and
-gladness, the glorious view beneath us.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0034" id="linkimage-0034"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/231m.jpg" alt="231m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/231.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER XVIII. GLENGARRIFF TO CORK
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">M</span>OUNTED on the Cork car next morning, we passed the estuaries of <i>Bantry
-Bay</i>, where, the tide being out, the heron stood, lone and
-aristocratic, and the curlew ran nimbly among the dank seaweed. By the
-roadside, the goats, tied in pairs, and cruelly hoppled, tumbled over the
-embankments as we passed. We went by the picturesque old ruins of <i>Carriginass</i>,
-and by various sights and scenes, until we reached the <i>Pass of
-Keimaneigh</i>, a defile through the mountains, the appropriate refuge of
-the <i>Rockites</i>, in 1822, and an elegant situation for a still. <i>Burns</i>,
-that poetical gauger, might have been happy here, so long as, dreamily
-wandering among the heath-clad steeps, he had confined his attentions to
-the beauties of nature, and ignored the paraphernalia of art; but a more
-practical man, intent on business, would have had but an uncomfortable
-home of it, until a bullet put an end to his dreary quest, and
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“The de'il flew away with the exciseman.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-The driver pulled up his horses by a way-side cottage, and inquired
-whether we wished to see <i>Gougane-barra</i>. It was only a mile or so
-out of our route, Patrick there would take us in his car, and he would
-wait for us with all the pleasure in life. So, making this little
-deflection, we reached, as speedily as a good pony could take us over bad
-roads, the gloomy lake and mountains. Here we were received by a troop of
-juvenile guides, led on by an old man, who with a long white beard, and
-staff, intended, I believe, to give us the idea of a venerable and pious
-pilgrim, to remind us probably of <i>St. Fion Bar</i>, the “Saint of the
-Silver Locks,” who founded a monastery here; but roguery so twinkled in
-his eye, and imposition so quavered in his voice, that I have no
-hesitation in speaking with regard to him, as <i>the Edinburgh Review</i>
-spake of <i>Edgar Poe</i>:—“He was a blackguard of undeniable mark.”
- </p>
-<p>
-The Irish poet <i>Callanan</i> sings,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“There is a green island in lone Gougane-barra,
-Where Allua of songs rushes forth as an arrow.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-We visited the “green island,” reaching it by an overland route (a method
-of access which I do not remember to have noticed out of Ireland); and the
-“Allua of Songs” was represented by a discordant din in Anglo-Irish, from
-the illustrious humbug in the beard, and his satellites, which would have
-interested us in a greater degree, had we understood only a twentieth part
-of it.
-</p>
-<p>
-Ultimately, we caught a small boy, intelligent and intelligible, and he
-told us how the great Saint had here made himself deliciously miserable,
-feasting upon the idea of his fasts; contemplating his macerations in the
-lake, as complacently as a cornet his new uniform, or his sister her first
-ball-dress, in the glass; whipping himself as industriously as a schoolboy
-his top; hugging himself in his hair shirt, and nestling cosily as a child
-in its crib, in a bed composed of ashes and broken glass.
-</p>
-<p>
-These and other austerities by which the Reverend Mr. Bar so signally
-extinguished himself, have made Gougane-barra, even to this day, a great
-resort for pilgrims; you see “the Stations,” and you see graven upon a
-stone, which was formerly an altar-stone, the list of prayers to be said
-there; and you hear of many wonderful cures, which have been performed (I
-always like that story of the priest, who was overheard, while telling his
-friend, that he must be so good as to excuse his absence, as he was
-engaged “<i>to rehearse a miracle at two 0 clock!</i>”) at the <i>Holy
-Well</i> hard by,—the very well, it may be, to which Larry O'Toole
-took Sheelah, his wife, and Phelim (as they thought) was “the consekins of
-that manoover.”
- </p>
-<p>
-These pilgrims, some fifty years ago, used to drink diligently as soon as
-they had finished their prayers, laying aside the staff for the
-shillelagh, and kicking off their sandals for a jig on the green. Having
-paid off the old score, they began a new account like gentlemen, just as
-an undergraduate, having advanced ten pounds to his tailor, immediately
-orders clothes to the amount of twenty.
-</p>
-<p>
-Regaining the car and main road, we pass by small silvery lakes from which
-the trout are leaping, “<i>bekase</i>,” says our driver, “<i>the wather's
-so full o' fish that whinever they want to turn round they must jist jump
-out and do it in the air</i>,” through a country prettily diversified with
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Woods and corn-fields, and the abode of men,
-Scatter'd at intervals, and wreathing smoke,
-Arising from <i>such</i> rustic roofs”
- </pre>
-<p>
-as are only to be seen in Ireland, and so come to <i>Inchigeela</i>.
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>À propos</i> of cornfields, I must not forget a striking example of
-scientific ingenuity, which we saw in this neighbourhood. A small
-cornstack had been raised, so grievously out of the perpendicular, that
-the tower of <i>Pisa</i> would have looked severely straight by it. But
-the builder saw his error, before it was too late, and had gloriously
-saved his cereal structure, by erecting another, opposite to and abutting
-towards it, until they supported each other, like the commencement of
-those card houses, which we built in early youth, a chevron in heraldry,
-or two drunken sots “seeing each other home.”
- </p>
-<p>
-At <i>Inchigeela's</i> clean and comfortable inn, we had a capital
-luncheon for ninepence, and then “lionised” the village. The first object
-of interest was a pig, asleep under a tree by the brookside.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0035" id="linkimage-0035"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/238m.jpg" alt="238m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/238.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Pinguem, nitidumque Bene curatâ cute.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-(I may add bene <i>curandâ</i>, as the bacon that is to be cannot possibly
-hear), and so serenely dignified in its complete repose, so “mildly
-majestical,” that one almost expected to see a point-lace nightcap, and
-fair girls fanning away the flies! He looked as happy as <i>Gryllus</i>,
-that companion of <i>Ulysses</i>, who, being transformed into a pig by <i>Circe</i>,
-and, being subsequently offered redintegration, preferred the swinish
-estate; huge and handsome as the famous boar, who ate <i>the Reverend Mr.
-Haydn</i>, after the victory of the rebels at <i>Enniscorihy</i>; 1 obese
-and sleepy, as <i>Silenus</i>, when found by the shepherds, <i>Chromis and
-Mnasylus</i>; 2 refreshed and comfortable, like that great <i>O'Neill</i>,
-who (<i>Camden</i> says so) was wont to plunge himself into the mire, as a
-cooler and restorative, after great excess.
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 Sir Jonah Barrington's Personal Sketches, vol. iii., p. 422.
-
-2 Virgil. Edogue vi. 13.
-</pre>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0036" id="linkimage-0036"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/239m.jpg" alt="239m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/239.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-Progressing, we come to the Constabulary Barracks, where a couple of
-constables, with such moustaches as would make a young Cornet groan, are
-polishing up their carbines. Our London police are well-favoured in
-appearance, but if the Irish constables were to take their place, there
-would not be a single female-servant, to be “warranted heart-whole,” in
-the great Metropolis, and the very name of Meat-safe would become a
-by-word and a laughing-stock.
-</p>
-<p>
-In the river hard by, a girl, standing ankle-deep, from time to time, like
-the young lady in “<i>the Soldiers Tear</i>” held aloft a snowy—never
-mind what; and, having plunged it into the stream, and placed it upon a
-stone, belaboured it (as though it were a drunken husband) with an
-implement of wood, which much resembled a villager's clumsy cricket-bat.
-</p>
-<p>
-<i>Two</i> Schools, and one actually at work! real pupils, making the pace
-too severe to last (when they saw us looking at them), with real
-slate-pencils over real slates! I wonder whether they were doing the “<i>Irish
-Arithmetic</i>,” of which O'Hara declares the following to be a faithful
-specimen:—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Twice 5 is 6;
-The 9s in 4 you can't;
-So dot 3, and carry 1;
-And let the rest walk!”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Returning, after a prolonged and pleasant stroll, we found the horses in
-the car, and the driver seated on his box. Now, an English coachman would
-have yelled at us, and English passengers would have scowled on us, for
-detaining them; but the Irishman gave us a pleasant smile of recognition,
-as though it was very kind of us to come back at all, and did not start
-for full five minutes, to assure us that we had caused no inconvenience.
-Certainly, it was one of those warm, still, delicious summer days on which
-<i>nobody wants to start</i>, satisfied with the calm enjoyment of the
-present, and so absorbed and occupied in doing nothing, that it seems to
-be quite a triumphal effort to rouse one's-self and light a cigar! At
-length, our charioteer speaks to his horses, whose drooping heads
-acknowledge the soporific influence of the day; and, awaking from their
-favourite night-mares, they bear us on our road to <i>Cork</i>.
-</p>
-<p>
-Now we pass the tower, antique and ivy-clad, of <i>Carrigadrohid</i>,
-(nice name for a naughty pointer, requiring frequent reprimands on a
-broiling day in September!); a handsome residence on the hill beyond, with
-the pleasant waters of the river <i>Lee</i>, which accompanies us from its
-source at <i>Gougatie-Barra</i> to <i>Cork</i>, winding below it; and
-change horses at <i>Dripsey</i>. Between this latter place and Cork, the
-signs of civilisation became so painfully prominent, and the scenery so
-excruciatingly English, that, having secured ourselves by our rug-straps,
-to the iron bar behind us, our “custom always of an afternoon,” when we
-felt inclined for a siesta, we closed our eyes in sadness, and tried to
-dream of Connamara and Killarney. But sights, too dreadful for
-description, scared sleep away. Carts, whereupon was gaudily emblazoned
-“Albert Bakery,” and “Collard and Collard” fascinated our unwilling gaze;
-and we shortly found ourselves among the suburbs disgustingly neat, and
-the houses offensively comfortable, of “that beautiful city called Cork.”
- </p>
-<p>
-On the right and left, as you approach, are two very imposing and
-extensive structures, <i>Queen's College</i>, and (“great wit to madness
-nearly is allied”) <i>the Lunatic Asylum</i>,—the latter so large,
-that it might have been erected to accommodate those numerous patients who
-have lost their reason in vain attempts to understand Mr. Bradshaw's
-Railway Guide.
-</p>
-<p>
-Cork is, indeed, a “beautiful city,” delightfully situated, handsomely
-built, and having more the appearance of energy, prosperity, and comfort,
-than any other city we saw in Ireland. To my fancy the old prophecy is
-fulfilled,—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Limerick was, Dublin is, and Cork shall be
-The finest city of the three.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-The river Lee, dividing here, flows round the island on which principally
-the city stands; and upon the wooded hills above, the richer part of the
-community have their pleasant, healthful homes.
-</p>
-<p>
-Now, although I have deplored our transition from the wild scenery of
-Connamara and Kerry to the formalities of cultivation and refinement, I am
-not so bigoted as to deny that civilisation has its advantages; and, among
-them, I would specially include “the Imperial Hotel” in Pembroke Street.
-An excellent dinner, in pleasant society (the exception being a vulgar,
-garrulous old female, who ate with her knife, and told us how, in one of
-the foreign churches, she had “tried very 'ard to convert <i>an aconite</i>,
-quite a genteel young man,”) followed by some irreproachable claret,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“with beaded bubbles, winking at the brim,”
- </pre>
-<p>
-disposed us to criticise very leniently the defects and inferiorities of
-art; and we left our inn to see the fireworks in the Mardyke Gardens, not
-only consoled, but cheery. All Cork appeared to be going in procession up
-that long avenue of fine old trees; and as the subsequent exhibition
-appeared to be quite satisfactory, I can pay “all Cork” the compliment of
-saying, that it is very easily pleased. To us, as we stood in the long,
-damp grass, and the varnish was retiring from our favourite boots,
-intervals of twenty minutes between the pyrotechnic performances soon
-began to be rather tedious; and we longed to repeat an experiment,
-originally introduced at the Henley Regatta, when a dozen of us combining,
-applied our cigars to all the “fixed pieces” at once, and the grand
-design, which was to crown the whole, anticipated its glories by a couple
-of hours, and wished the bewildered spectators “Good Night” (in glittering
-letters two feet long) almost as soon as they had paid for their
-admission!
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER XIX. CORK
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">I</span> was dreaming that I met Lord Evelyn, at sunrise, in the Gap of Dunloe;
-that he put into my hand, with a graceful bow and striking amenity, the
-largest horse-pistol I ever saw, constructed, as he said, upon novel
-principles, by which it loaded itself, and would continue to go off until
-three o'clock, with appropriate airs from a musical box in the handle;
-that, leaving me with a kind of <i>Pas de Basque</i>, which I thought very
-inappropriate at such a crisis, and taking up a position twelve paces from
-me, he produced a weapon, similar to mine, and requested me to “blaze
-away;” that I was making frantic, but futile efforts to get my deadly
-instrument on full cock, and that my Lord, disdaining to take any
-advantage, was pinking the eagles, as they flew overhead; when the loud
-ringing of a contiguous bell recalled me to the realities of life. There
-is ever in these large hotels some unhappy inmate, who is unable to put
-himself into communication with Boots, who rings his bell with an
-ever-increasing energy, until he performs, at last, in his wild fury, such
-a continuous peal, as must bring up somebody, or bring down the rope. It
-is interesting to listen to these bells. First they suggest, then they
-entreat, then they remonstrate, then they insist, and then they curse and
-swear! Like the music of the Overture to <i>Guillaume Tell</i>, they begin
-pleasantly and peacefully, then they grow grand and warlike, <i>crescendo</i>-ing,
-from <i>andante pianissimo</i>, until they arrive at <i>allegro fortissimo</i>;
-and reminding me of a village dame, whom I heard calling from her cottage
-door to a child, playing in the distance, and hearing but not heeding its
-mother:
-</p>
-<p>
-“<i>Lizzie, luv!</i>”
- </p>
-<p>
-“Liz—a—buth!”
- </p>
-<h3>
-“E—LIZ—ER—BUTH!”
- </h3>
-<h3>
-“BESS, YOU YOUNG ———!”
- </h3>
-<p>
-epithet too suggestive of the kennel for readers of polite literature.
-</p>
-<p>
-Of course we went to see the old <i>Cove of Cork</i>, who, in a spirit of
-loyalty, but to the great disappointment of facetious visitors, has
-changed his name to <i>Queenstown</i>. We travelled by rail to <i>Passage</i>,
-and thence by steamer. What shall I say of this glorious haven, “<i>Statio
-bene fida carinis</i>,” twelve miles from city to sea? What a refreshment
-and gladness must it be to the weary sailor, to come from his lone voyage
-on “the sad sea waves,” to this safe home and refuge, to listen to the
-summer breeze, softly sighing in those upland groves, instead of to the
-tempest, as it bends the creaking mast, and to look down upon those calm
-and glittering waters, with the gay craft of Peace and Pleasure gliding
-gracefully to and fro.
-</p>
-<p>
-Should it ever be my happy lot to revisit the city and haven of Cork, I
-shall most certainly decline to land at Queenstown. The gentleman who took
-a Census of the smells at Cologne, and said,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“At Colne, a town of monks and bones,
-And pavements, fanged with murderous stones,
-And rags and jags, and hideous wenches,
-I counted four-and-seventy stenches,
-All well-defined and separate stinks!”
- </pre>
-<p>
-might, perhaps, be interested in this locality, and would find an ample
-field for his nasal arithmetic. The heat was intense, the tide low; and,
-though I have no doubt that, further from the sea, the place is sweet and
-healthy enough, I never remember to have inhaled so offensive an
-atmosphere as that which prevailed, upon St. Bartholomew's Day, in the
-year 1858, and in the front street of the Queenstown. As an Irishman,
-Chief Baron Woulfe, once wrote of Paris, “the air is so loaded with
-stenches of every kind, as to be quite irrespirable;” and turning to my
-friend, I said, “O Francis, it is written, in this 'Handbook to the
-Harbour and City of Cora,' that 'Queenstown is celebrated, and justly so,
-for the equality, mildness, and salubrity of its temperature,' and that
-'many medical men prefer it to the climate of <i>Madeira</i>;' but take
-thy kerchief from thy nose brief while, and answer me, my Francis, terse
-and true, doth not this statement seem to thee, in boyhood's phrase, 'a
-Corker!'”
- </p>
-<p>
-He replied, that “as the stinks were not quite sufficiently defined to
-sketch, he should hire a boat and bathe;” and, having purchased a couple
-of oyster-cloths, the nearest approximation he could find to towels, so
-indeed he did, leaving me (incapable of natation), to contemplate the
-Garrison, an extensive pile with a very military and practical look, Spike
-Island, once the residence of Mr. Mitchell, and now occupied by some 2000
-malefactors of less illustrious name, and Rocky and <i>Hawlbowline</i>
-Islands, which are used as ammunition stores.
-</p>
-<p>
-The heat and the incense (how I envied the white gulls, flying lazily over
-the waters, and ever and anon dipping, as one thought, to cool
-themselves!) were so oppressive and irritating, that when a small boy,
-buying apples, would keep dropping them on the ground, in a vain attempt
-to thrust more into his pocket than the cavity could possibly accommodate,
-I almost thirsted for his blood, and like the stern old Governor in <i>Don
-Juan</i>, I could have seen him
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“thrown
-Into the deep without a tear or groan.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Yea, should have esteemed it to be <i>Hari-kari</i>, which is Japanese,
-you know, for “happy dispatch.” 1
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 “<i>The Hari-kari</i>, or 'Happy Dispatch,' is still practised
-by the Japanese. This consists in ripping open their own
-bowels with two cuts, in the form of a cross.... Princes,
-and the high classes, receive permission to rip themselves
-up, <i>as a special favour</i>, when under sentence of death.”—
-<i>Japan, and her People</i>, by A Steinmitz.
-</pre>
-<p>
-In expiation of these sanguinary thoughts, I subsequently presented a
-fourpenny piece, as conscience money, to a miserable-looking beggar, who
-“had not tasted food,” &c. &c. &c. &c., and who only asked
-for “a halfpenny, to buy a piece of bread.” But he had scarcely left me
-(having previously requested all the saints to pay me particular
-attention), when I heard one of two men, who were leaning against the
-wall, on which I sat smell-bound, say to his neighbour that “the jintleman
-must have more brass than brains, to go and give his money to a drunken
-shoemaker, who'd been out three days on the spree.” Yes, my groat was gone
-to buy alcohol for this impostor, this Cork Leg; and I felt as though I
-very closely resembled that bird which the French call “<i>Le Bruant Fou</i>,”
- and we “<i>The Foolish Bunting</i>,” because it is so easily ensnared.
-</p>
-<p>
-It was, indeed, a joyous departure from humbug, dead fish, and sewers, to
-the waves, that were dancing in a pleasant breeze (which prudently
-declined to venture ashore); and we were as glad to make an escape as our
-great sailor, <i>Sir Francis</i>, when, outnumbered by the Spaniards, he
-came, crowding all sail, into Cork Harbour, and hid himself securely in “<i>Drakes
-Pool</i>.”
- </p>
-<p>
-Lovely as the scene around her, there sat upon the deck, as we returned to
-<i>Passage</i>, a winsome Irish bride, fondly gazed upon by her happy
-husband, and less ostensibly by ourselves, and about a dozen officers, who
-were bound for Cork, from the Garrison and Club house at Queenstown. Was
-it that mysterious talent of beauty, which without words can say, “I
-recognise your homage, and it does not displease me;” or was it only our
-own enormous vanity which caused each of us to imagine, as I feel
-convinced we did, that, could she only have foreknown our peculiar
-fascinations, she would have laughed to scorn the inferior animal, who was
-now grinning by her side?
-</p>
-<p>
-We returned to the Imperial for luncheon (and I am unacquainted with any
-midday refreshment more interesting than prawns, fresh and full-grown,
-with bread and butter <i>à discrétion</i>, and the golden ales of Burton),
-and then took car for <i>Blarney</i>. Our horse was evidently as fond of
-his home as that enthusiastic citizen who, with a charming indifference to
-anachronisms, declared that Athens was called “the Cork of Greece,” and
-would keep perpetually turning round to gaze upon the beautiful city. In
-vain the driver inquired satirically whether he had dropped his umbrella,
-or forgotten to order dinner, or whether there was anything on his mind;
-in vain he addressed him vituperatively, called him an old clothes-horse,
-and threatened to take him to the asylum; in vain, trying the persuasive,
-he assured him that we had come all the way from England to see him,
-having heard so much of his speed and beauty, and that, if he would keep
-up his character, and be a gentleman, he should have such a feed of old
-beans that day, as would cause him to neigh for joy. All in vain! from
-time to time round went this uncomfortable horse, until at last, as some
-fond lover takes one more look at his beloved, and then rushes wildly
-away, where duty calls or glory waits him, our eccentric quadruped
-suddenly started off at full trot, and during the remainder of our journey
-comported himself with great propriety.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER XX. BLARNEY
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE old <i>Castle of Blarney</i>, like the castle of Macbeth, by
-Inverness,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“hath a pleasant seat; the air
-Nimbly and sweetly recommends itself
-Unto our gentler senses;”
- </pre>
-<p>
-and it commands a fine view “over the water and over the Lee” over lake
-and meadow, and over “the Groves of Blarney,” renowned in song. The
-landscape rewards your exertions, when you have ascended the narrow
-staircase of the sole remaining tower, and this somewhat resembles (“<i>magna
-componere</i>”) an excellent “Stilton,” which has gone the way of all good
-cheeses, and is now a hollow ruin—a ruin on which some sentimental
-mouse might sit, like Marins at Carthage, and bitterly recall the past.
-</p>
-<p>
-Looking down this cavity, made gloomier by the dark ivy and wild myrtle,
-which grow from floor to battlement, one feels that fainty thrill and
-chilliness which is equally unpleasant and indescribable, and gladly
-divert our attention, first to the stone displaced by a cannon shot, in
-the days of the incomparable <i>Lady Jeffreys</i>, when
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Oliver Cromwell, he did her pummell,
-And broke a breach all in her battlement,”
- </pre>
-<p>
-and then to another stone lower down in the tower, and bearing the
-inscription, “<i>Cormac Macarthy Fort is Me Fieri Fecit</i>, a.d. 1446,”
- which may be translated liberally,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“Cormac Macarthy, bould as bricks,
-Made me in Fourteen Forty-six.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-This is said to be the original <i>Blarney Stone</i>, but as no man could
-possibly kiss it, unless (as Sir Boyle Roche observed) he happened to be a
-bird, or an acrobat, twelve feet long, and suspending himself by his feet
-from the summit of the Tower, we were content to believe in the
-conventional granite, which now bears the name, and which, being situated
-at the top of one of the turrets, is very accessible for osculation.
-</p>
-<p>
-Of this lapideous phenomenon, the author of “The Groves of Blarney” sings,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“There is a stone there, that whoever kisses,
-Oh, he never misses to grow eloquent;
-'Tis he may clamber to a lady's chamber.
-Or become a member of parliament.
-
-“A clever spouter he'll sure turn out, or
-An out-an-outer, to be let alone:
-Don't hope to hinder him, or to bewilder him,
-Sure he's a pilgrim from the Blarney Stone!”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Now it is my conviction, primarily suggested by my own sensations, and
-subsequently confirmed by what I noticed in others, as I lingered on that
-ancient tower, that the majority of those who kiss the Blarney Stone, do
-wish and try to believe in it. We English have so scanty a stock of
-superstitions, and some of these so wanting in refinement and dignity, as,
-for instance, the “crossing out” of an isolated magpie, the ejection of
-spilt salt over the left shoulder, deviations into the gutter to avoid a
-ladder, the mastication of pancakes upon Shrove Tuesday, and the like,
-that we are glad of any pretext for gratifying that innate love of the
-marvellous, which exists, more or less, in us all,—ay, and will
-exist, until John Bright is Premier of England, and our Fairy Tales and
-Arabian Nights, and all our books of pleasant fiction are solemnly burnt
-at Oxford, before a Synod of costive Quakers.
-</p>
-<p>
-And then it is so gratifying for Mammas to fancy, as they bend to kiss the
-magic stone, that assuredly they “stoop to conquer,” henceforth, by a new
-and dulcet eloquence, those little idiosyncrasies of “dear Papa,” which
-have thwarted their happiest schemes, such as his insuperable apathy on
-the subject of that new Conservatory, although “you know, darling, both
-Mr. Nesfield and Mr. Thomas declared it to be indispensable.”
- </p>
-<p>
-Pleasant, too, for their charming daughter of nineteen, to think that she
-hereafter shall not ask in vain for that tour in Switzerland, that ball at
-home, those boxes, varying in shape and size; small, from the stores of
-Howell and of James; medium, from Messieurs Hill and Piver; and large,
-very large, from “the infallible Mrs. Murray,” and Jane Clark, in the
-Street of the Regent.
-</p>
-<p>
-Enlivening, moreover, for that Eton boy to believe, as he salutes the
-Blarney Stone, that now he has only to give the Governor a hint, and “that
-clipping little horse of young Farmer Smith's” will be purchased
-forthwith, and presented to him, to carry him next season with the Belvoir
-hunt.
-</p>
-<p>
-Miserable Father, how shall he meet this irresistible incursion upon his
-purse and peace. Well may he look coldly on the Blarney Stone! Well may he
-express, from heart and hope, his belief that it's “all humbug.” And yet,
-methinks, remembering that last Election, that distressingly effete
-experiment to nominate Sir John Golumpus, that fearful silence, when he
-came to grief, that vulgar gibe “go 'ome, and tak' a pill,” he too must
-sigh for this gift of Blarney, and long to kiss the Stone.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="linkimage-0037" id="linkimage-0037"> </a>
-</p>
-<div class="fig" style="width:35%;">
-<img src="images/258m.jpg" alt="258m " width="100%" /><br />
-</div>
-<h4>
-<a href="images/258.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
-</h4>
-<p>
-See, they are leaving the battlements,—first the Etonian, then his
-sister, and then Mamma. O, wily Paterfamilias! Suddenly remembering that
-he “has left his stick” (he has, and purposely), he steps briskly back,
-and, stooping for his cane,—salutes the rock! He, at all events,
-won't <i>“kiss, and tell!”</i>
-</p>
-<p>
-But everybody kisses it. The noisy old girl, whom we met yesterday at the
-<i>table d'hôte</i>, and who preferred steel to silver, as a medium for
-the transmission of food, reached the summit of the tower very short of
-wind, but resumed, as soon as ever she could speak, a severe sermon upon
-the errors of “<i>Room</i>,” and its superstitions in particular. And yet,
-ultimately (affecting to do it in ridicule,—let us be charitable,
-and hope that, in her heart of hearts, she had in view the conversion of
-her “genteel Aconite”), she kissed the Stone; and we were glad to have
-already done so.
-</p>
-<p>
-We saw the kitchen, where beeves were cooked in the merry old times, and
-the banquet-hall wherein they were carved. The latter was appropriated to
-a miscellaneous collection of rickety old farming implements,—rust,
-and dust, and decay, where brave knights laughed over the winecup,—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“And tapers shone, and music breath'd,
-And beauty led the ball.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Shall we re-ascend the tower, and preach, from that old stone pulpit, on “<i>pulvis
-et umbra sumus?</i>” Perhaps, as there is no congregation, and a Lunatic
-Asylum mighty convanient, we may as well postpone our sermon, and turn our
-steps to the gardens and groves of Blarney.
-</p>
-<p>
-If the poet had not told us that “they are so charming,” I should scarcely
-have discovered the fact for myself, as they are but feebly ornamented
-with flowers, and—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“The gravel walks there, for speculation,
-And conversation, in sweet solitude,”
- </pre>
-<p>
-are damply suggestive of a cold in the head. At the same time, from their
-pleasant position and varied surface, these grounds have a charm about
-them; and I should much like to wander in them, by moonlight, with—(I
-must decline, like the Standard Bearer, to communicate the young lady's
-name), just to see whether I had derived any benefit from my salutation of
-the Blarney Stone; whether I could say <i>mavourneen</i> with a sweeter
-tenderness, and discourse more fluently those “sugared glosses,” which are
-called by the sentimental “<i>heart music</i>,” and by the unsentimental “<i>bosh</i>.”
- </p>
-<p>
-In these grounds the portly old gardener showed us one of those <i>Cromlechs</i>,
-which were used by the Druids for sacrificial or sepulchral purposes, and
-in which, I am ashamed to say, we professed an all-absorbing interest,
-though, on my asking Frank, as we left the gardens, “what a Cromlech was?”
- he replied that, prior to inspection, his idea had always been that it was
-a species of antediluvian buffalo!
-</p>
-<p>
-Then we saw the lake
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“That is stored with perches,
-And comely eels in the verdant mud;
-Besides the leeches, and groves of beeches,
-All standing in order for to guard the flood.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-They say that, from this lake enchanted cows, snow-white and of wondrous
-beauty, come forth in the summer mornings, and wander among the dewy
-meads, to the intense astonishment and admiration, doubtless, of the
-celebrated Irish Bulls. 1
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 The only lapsus linguar, resembling a bull, which I heard
-during our tour, was from a fellow-passenger, in Connamara,
-who was repeating a conversation, of which he declared
-himself to have been an eye-witness.
-</pre>
-<p>
-And they say, moreover, that beneath these waters (which we ventured to
-designate <i>Cowesharbour</i>, in allusion to the mysterious kine), lies
-the plate-chest of the Macarthys, about the size of a gasometer, and never
-to be raised until once again a Macarthy shall be lord of Blarney. It will
-be a busy day for the butler, and a happy one for those who deal in
-plate-powder, whenever this restoration shall occur.
-</p>
-<p>
-Our driver gave us, as we returned, a taste of his autobiography. I wish
-that I could repeat it <i>verbatim</i>, for Irish humour loses its bloom
-if it is not faithfully rendered; but my memory only retains the
-incidents, and, here and there, a phrase of his story.
-</p>
-<p>
-He was in England several years ago, at the time of harvest, travelling,
-sickle in hand, with a dozen of “the boys,” and looking out for employment
-in the neighbourhood of, or, as he termed it, “contagious to th'ould
-castle of Newark-upon-Trent.” A hot wind blew the dust along the road, for
-“the good people were a-going their journeys;” 1 and they were resting
-awhile, and looking at a fine crop of wheat, by the wayside, when two
-young men on horseback stopped, and asked them “whether they wanted work?”
- </p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 “The Irish have a superstition, that when the dust is
-caught up and blown about by the wind, it is a sign that the
-fairies are travelling.”—<i>Tales and Novels by Maria
-Edgeworth</i>, vol. iv. p. 72.
-</pre>
-<p>
-Now, it seems, that there lived in these parts, at the period of our
-history, one of those unhappy malcontents whose counsel, like Moloch's, is
-for open war with everything and everybody about them; who can believe no
-good of their neighbours, because they find none in themselves; who murmur
-at the rich, and are mean and merciless to the poor; who go to meeting
-house to spite the parson, and to church to vex the preacher; who attend
-parish-meetings to stir up quarrels, and to set one class against another;
-who poison foxes, and put their great ugly boots into partridge-nests; and
-sedulously devote themselves in every way to promote the misery of
-mankind.
-</p>
-<p>
-A bear of this calibre, calling himself a farmer, was tenant of the field
-on which the Irishman gazed; and a plan occurred to the merry young
-gentlemen by which they might amuse themselves, occupy the reapers, and
-annoy “that mangy old hunks.” Accordingly, they at once retained our
-friend the car-driver, and his company, to cut the crop before them,
-giving them particular directions to get it down as quickly as they could,
-and agreeing to pay them liberally by the acre, as “their father was
-anxious to get it stacked, and would not mind their doing the work a bit
-slovenly, if only they lost no time.” And then, having warned them “not to
-take any notice of a poor half-witted fellow, who lived near, and who,
-fancying that all the land about was his own, might possibly try to
-interrupt their proceedings,” the horsemen wished them “good-day.”
- </p>
-<p>
-They had been at work for nearly an hour, and had left behind them, in
-their anxious haste, such an untidy example of sheaf and stubble as would
-have broken Mr. Mechi's heart, when a loud bellowing in the distance
-announced the arrival of the unhappy lunatic! He came on, roaring and
-raving, shaking his fist, and foaming at the mouth. He actually danced
-with rage among the sickles, until the reapers, fearing the excision of
-his legs, forcibly removed him, and with twisted strawbands, secured him
-to his own gate! There, trussed and pinioned, he sent forth such howlings
-through “the alarmed air,” as scared every crow from the parish, and very
-speedily attracted the surprised attention of the British public
-travelling upon the Great North Road.
-</p>
-<p>
-The reapers, eventually, found it expedient to retire with considerable
-agility, much disgusted and discomfited, at being “sich a distance on the
-wrong side of the wage, bedad,” until they were met by their delighted
-employers, who not only presented them with a couple of sovereigns, but
-introduced them, with the anecdote, to a jolly old gentleman, hard by,
-from whom they had employment until the end of harvest.
-</p>
-<p>
-In allusion to the subject of Irishmen in England, I asked the car man,
-when he had concluded his story, whether he was aware that there were as
-many of his countrymen living in London as in the city of Dublin itself? 1
-And his reply, to the effect, that I had “<i>brought away a dale o' vartue
-from th' ouldstone a top o Blarney</i>,” reminded me of an observation
-made, when I was at school, by our French master, to a boy named <i>Drake.
-“Monsieur Canard, I shall not call you a liar but I do not believe von
-vord of vot you say!</i>”
- </p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-1 See an interesting account of the Irish in London, in <i>The
-Million-peopled City</i>, by the Rev. J. Garwood, p. 246.
-</pre>
-<p>
-We had a fine view, as we returned, of the beautiful city and its
-environs, and re-entering by another route, we passed the ornate chapel,
-commenced by Father Mathew, at the date and with the design, so charmingly
-recorded by the poet,
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“The first beginning of this new chapel
-Was in eighteen hundred and thirty-three;
-It will soon be finish'd by the subscribers,
-And then all tyrants away must flee.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Next morning, having purchased, as we were commissioned and as we
-recommend other tourists to do, a good stock of highly finished but
-low-priced gloves from Mollard, in the street of St. Patrick, we started
-by rail for Dublin.
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<a name="link2HCH0021" id="link2HCH0021"> </a>
-</p>
-<div style="height: 4em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-<h2>
-CHAPTER XXI. FROM DUBLIN HOMEWARD
-</h2>
-<p class="pfirst"><span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HERE are objects, I doubt not, in the well-cultivated country which lies
-between Cork and Dublin, well worthy of special notice, but we did not
-pause to observe them, passing once more the pretty town of Mallow, and
-the Limerick Junction, reminded at Thurles of the famous Synod, and
-longing, as we passed the Curragh (Ireland's Newmarket), for a gallop over
-its green, elastic sward.
-</p>
-<p>
-The latest intelligence, which we obtained from Mark, on our arrival at
-Morrisson's was that Cardinal Wiseman had arrived in Dublin, and the Fair
-in Donnybrook. To the latter we went, as soon as we had dined, but did not
-meet with His Eminence, wiser in his maturity than Wolsey in his youth,
-for Wolsey not only went to the fair, but got there so particularly drunk,
-that he was put into the stocks by Sir Amyas Paulett,—if you doubt
-it, ask “<i>Notes and Queries.</i>”
- </p>
-<p>
-The glories of <i>Donnybrook</i> have declined dismally since those more
-happy days, when Paddy
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“'Slipp'd into a tent, just to spend half-a-crown,
-Slipp'd out, met a friend, and for joy knock'd him down,
-With his sprig of shillelagh, and shamrock so green!”
- </pre>
-<p>
-The showmen shouted, and the drums rumbled, and the cymbals clanged, and
-the fiddlers fiddled, but the dancing was limp and feeble, and the general
-effect was dreary. We visited Mr. Batty's Menagerie, and were offered a
-mount upon a young elephant, at the low charge of one penny. And I am glad
-that we declined; because the quadruped in question, having gone round the
-show, until it was tired of doing so, suddenly dropped upon its stern, and
-discharged its jockeys into the sawdust, as though they were a load of
-coals!
-</p>
-<p>
-Then we visited the Theatre of Ferguson, and there a Prima Donna appeared
-to us, from the arrangement of her mouth, to be singing with remarkable
-energy; but we had no further means of verifying the supposition, as the
-whole House, incited by her example, was chanting at the top of its voice.
-And I must say that, although I stood, most uncomfortably and insecurely,
-on a narrow plank at the top of “the Boxes,” I never enjoyed a concert
-more; and I very much doubt whether the Pope himself could have resisted
-joining in the Chorus.
-</p>
-<p>
-We saw nothing at all suggestive of a shindy until (to our great joy) we
-met a couple of our college friends, Hoare, the stroke of our boat, tall
-among the tallest, as Arba among the Anakims, arm in arm with little
-Dibdin, the coxswain (they have been sworn friends, ever since Hoare took
-him by the collar, and dropped him into the Isis, for some mistake in
-steering); and these gentlemen were armed with shillelaghs, and anxious,
-as the old lady in the captured city, to know when the fun would begin.
-“For now I see,” said Hoare,—
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“The true old times are gone,
-When every morning brought a noble chance,
-And every chance brought out a noble knight.”
- “And every knight,” I said, as a supplement,
-“brought home a broken head.”
- </pre>
-<p>
-Let us haste to Kelvin Grove—I mean, let us return to Morrisson's!”
- </p>
-<p>
-We steamed away next morning from Kingston Quay. Looking back upon that
-lovely bay, I thought of the poor Irishman's most touching words, as he
-gazed for the last time on his native land, “Ah, <i>Dublin</i>, sweet <i>Jasus</i>
-be with you!” and from my heart I breathed an earnest prayer for the good
-weal of beautiful Ireland!
-</p>
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<br /><br /> <br /><br />
-</p>
-<hr />
-<p>
-<br /><br />
-</p>
-<p>
-And now our “<i>Little Tour</i>” is over; and its story must go forth,
-like some small boy to a public school, to find its true place and level.
-It may, perhaps, receive more pedal indignities than donations of a
-pecuniary kind; vulgarly speaking, more kicks than halfpence; but as no
-severities can deprive the boy of his pleasant memories of the past, nor
-chase the smile from his tear-stained and inky cheek, as he sleeps to
-dream of home; so no criticism, however caustic, can ever mar my glad
-remembrance of our happy days in <i>Ireland</i>.
-</p>
-<p>
-And in mine adversity, should such befall, I shall have yet another
-solace. Hooted, like some bad actor, from the stage, I can hide myself
-behind scenery, which has a charm for all, and which, like Phyllis the
-fair, “never fails to please.”
- </p>
-<p>
-Cheered or condemned, whether “the Duke shall say, Let him roar again,” or
-the poor player shall hear
-</p>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-“On all sides, from innumerable tongues,
-An universal hiss,”
- the drama is over, and the curtain falls.
-</pre>
-<h3>
-FINIS.
-</h3>
-<div style="height: 6em;">
-<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
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