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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8b76a76 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #50558 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/50558) diff --git a/old/50558-8.txt b/old/50558-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 55eaf2b..0000000 --- a/old/50558-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2143 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Tramp's Scraps, by H. I. M. Self - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: A Tramp's Scraps - -Author: H. I. M. Self - -Release Date: November 27, 2015 [EBook #50558] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TRAMP'S SCRAPS *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Diane Monico, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - - -A Tramp's Scraps - -_By H. I. M. Self_ - -[Illustration] - -_To_ - -_Anybody_ - -_Anywhere_ - -_Anytime_ - - -C. C. Parker -220 S. Broadway, Los Angeles, California -1913 - - - - -Table of Contents - - - Page - -? 7 - -Fire 9 - -The Ghost 13 - -In a Houseboat 13 - -Animals 15 - -Humatiaá 17 - -At Sea 21 - -A Quarrel 25 - -The Witching Hour 27 - -Perrochino 29 - -Smallpox 29 - -"May Good Digestion" 31 - -Bug-hunting 33 - -Evelina 35 - -Shooting in Illinois 39 - -After Ostrich 41 - -A Whitlow 43 - -Buchaton 45 - -Fever 47 - -"To Sleep, to Sleep" 49 - -"Half the World, Etc." 51 - -Hard Times 53 - -"There was a Ship Quoth He." 55 - -Health and Appetite 59 - -The Knuckle-duster 59 - -Wanderers 61 - -"The Weary Ploughboy" 63 - -Another Quarrel 63 - -Another Fire 65 - -Two Falls and a Cow 69 - -Real Ghosts 71 - -On the San Rafael Ranch 73 - -Express Charges 77 - -Cotton Packing 81 - -Man Overboard 85 - -"The Old Oaken Bucket" 87 - -A Dog Story 89 - -Arden 89 - -Horses 95 - -Sudden Death, Etc. 97 - -A Game at Billiards 98 - -Thieves 101 - -Brief Authority 105 - - -[Illustration] - - - - -? - - -A, an Argentino, comes in to a pulperia and talks loudly to another -native. B objects, laying his hand on A's arm, and asks him to make -less noise. - -A steps back, putting his hand on his knife, and B throws him out of -doors and shuts the door. - -Later A returns and he and B sit down to talk it over. A says that he -is an Estanciero, with thirty thousand head of live stock and would -have treated B well if he had come to his place; why had B thrown him -out? - -B said: "Too much noise and knife." - -B had put on an ulster and had a Derringer in his hand in his pocket; -a man had told him that A was coming back to kill him. - -For two hours or so they sat, A talking a little and then jumping up -in front of B, his knife wandering up and down B who sat perfectly -still watching as if it was a show. Then A would sit again and jump -up again and so on. They use a knife here as an Englishman would his -hand and are so quick that the pistol would never have saved B, though -he might have killed A, killing is not much thought of and this man -was wild to do it. Why did he not? Was it Providence? Or was it that A -being a brave man, he could not kill a thing that made no resistance. - -[Illustration: Buena Noche Toreador.] - -[Illustration: Digging Ye First Corral Ditch.] - -Later it turned out that A was on some government work and had -seventeen soldiers camped outside; they had stayed at an Estancia the -night before where he had lost money at monte probably, probably had a -"wet" night. - -He was not in an amiable frame of mind. When he went to bed, he asked -B if he would come and kill him as he slept; also if B would lock up -his papers and things. - -B told him to go to bed; that (B) was English. But why is B alive? and -perhaps A? - - - - -FIRE! - - -Five small wooden huts originally brought from England and later -hauled forty miles or more across a camp on bullock-wagons to start -a new colony next to Indian territory. Each hut is about eight feet -square and they are a foot apart with the high grass cut off around -about in case of prairie fires. Three men from one end hut have -gone shooting deer or emus or whatever turns up, leaving a heap of -powder-flasks, guns, saddles, and clothes in one corner of their -shanty; blankets, etc., hanging out of the lower bunk, half-cover -and open box on the floor with eight pounds of loose powder in it. -The next hut is empty except when the owner comes to lie down, gasp, -and perspire. It is so hot that you can break a piece of grass, and -he is digging, with scarcely any clothes on, the first big corral -ditch. Once as he lies half stupidly, listening lazily to a crackling, -thinking that if he had sense enough he would wonder what it could -be. Then he gets up to see. Fire had started in some way in the heap -of clothes and was running up the thin boards to the roof. There is -not much room but there is a fork with which he begins to shovel out -the burning heap, and yell for water, which his brother, asleep in a -further hut, brings when he realizes what is wanted. This water was -thrown into the box of powder, but all this time the sparks have been -falling into it and the man wants to know why everything was not blown -to kingdom come before that water came. - -[Illustration: A "Prairie" Fire.] - -When the shooters got home there were remarks. Reminded me of the -story of two roughs in London who were talking over an article in a -paper about the improvement of the lower classes which one read to -the other, who remarked: "Yes, we're a bad lot, Bill, but we 'as our -fun. The other day there was a bloody fire and the bloody fire engine -come down the bloody street to the bloody 'ouse an' there was a bloody -ole fool standin' at the top winder, an' I says, jump, ye bloody fool -and me an' my mate Bill'll ketch yer in our blanket, an' the bloody -fool 'e jumps an' e' breaks 'is bloody neck--we 'adn't got no bloody -blanket." - -[Illustration: "And Said as Plain as Whisper in the Ear, the Place is -Haunted."] - -[Illustration: Sampans on the Yellow River.] - - - - -THE GHOST. - - -A lonely little old hut on the bank of a river in Illinois said to -be haunted. Man went and slept there part of a night, cold, woke up -covered with snow that had drifted in through holes in the roof. Went -home, no ghost. Shooting duck on the way back got stuck in a slough. -Another man turned up and took one end of the gun. Man in the mud's -legs stayed on and he came out. If anyone don't believe this he has -the legs still. Don't go after ghosts though; you may find one. - - - - -IN A HOUSEBOAT. - - -On the Yangtze River, houseboats have a cabin with bunks, table, and -a mast, that should go up and down so that you can get under bridges -made of long blocks of stone; they also have a huge sail made of -matting. You put your cook, coolies, and provisions aboard, get your -passport, and are off through merchant ships, junks, men-of-war, -sampans, etc., up the river, and through the pass where they saw the -fire from Shanghai and got up in time to save the captain of a craft -where the men had been tied to the masts and the ships set on fire -by pirates. Sometimes the coolies pull you with a rope; sometimes -push you with poles; sometimes you sail. When you please you land and -shoot pheasants scared out of Chinese graves (big and little mounds -covered with reeds etc.) by bones thrown in, plenty of bones, remains -of bamboo stockades used in the Taeping rebellion still standing. -There are duck, plover, and snipe; and now and then you pass through a -Chinese village. Natives stare and big dogs get excited. It is as well -to keep a watch, at night particularly when near any soldier junks, as -we were at Foochow. - -[Illustration: On the Yangtze Kiang.] - -[Illustration: A Pulperia.] - - - - -ANIMALS. - - -A pulperia with the usual crowd evenings, Spanish Mayor domo excited -because he says a big Argentino (a stranger in with a tropa of -prairie schooners from Mendoza) drew a knife on his compradre, the -Italian proprietor. Writer was close but saw no knife. Spaniard being -a man in authority has always a lot of human jackals ready to take -his part; he is not any good himself. Argentino run out of pulperia -and beaten, etc., till insensible. Englishman comes up and finding -another Spaniard (said to have been a brigand formerly) burning the -Argentino's fingers with a match, saying that he is shamming, abuses -everybody; stooping over the Argentino, finding his heart is still -beating; slips his hand under him and takes his knife (a poor little -one which he pockets); asks if the crowd think they've done enough? -They go back to the pulperia, Englishman also, but he returns in five -minutes and finds the man has come to and is staggering about. He -lies down when found. Crowd turn up again, but hearing that the first -who meddles will be shot, keep quiet till at last the juez de paz -(Argentino) turns up and takes charge of man. Tried in Rosario later, -he says that the Englishman, who is not called as a witness saved his -life, dare say he was right; men are brutes sometimes. - -[Illustration: A Row.] - -[Illustration: What's Left of San Carlos Cathedral--Humatiaá, -Paraguay.] - - - - -HUMATIAÁ. - - -In a little Paraguayan village where there is no hotel we find a -shanty with a table on which are cold meat and pickles mostly; eat -when you like, sleep when and where you can, and pay is exorbitant. -Two of us slept on a table. We are here after jaguars. One found -a hammock said to belong to the cook--don't know what became of -him--this was slung over the table, all in the same room which opened -on the main street. The old town was smashed in the last fight which -was a plucky one and where the fellows left alive got out of the -town by tying dead soldiers to posts by dummy guns, leaving them on -guard till the other fellows found out. There is nothing left of it -but the ruins of a cathedral (San Carlos), high bare walls with great -timbers sticking out into the sky and holes made by cannon. One of -us tried to sketch it, but it was not easy as the population were -interested and shut one up in a circle. The present village is half a -mile away, a street of wooden shanties with big shutters (no glass) -nearer the river. In the houses they played loto with much noise, and -taught green parrots to whistle. - -[Illustration: Evening in Humatiaá.] - -In one there were two delightful and rather fiedish little jaguar -cubs, in the street people played bowls and talked to anyone they -wished. We all knew each other directly and did the same. Now and -then, to some belle going out in scarlet dress, gold embroideries, and -huge earrings, her dress up to her knees in front and a long train; -nothing much on her shoulders or her feet and at night people wander -into the room where we are trying to sleep, eat, play cards, sing, -fight, and so on. Sometimes a man on the table goes mad and sits up. -I am in the hammock above so I go mad. It doesn't matter, everyone is -mad with an uncivilized madness here. - -So we get up and eat, the language is guarani, two-thirds Spanish, -one-third Indian and a trifle of Portuguese; nice language, with a -click in it like a dissipated watch. - -[Illustration: Adios Humatiaá.] - -[Illustration: Your Stateroom.] - -There was a baby's funeral among other things. The little body -covered with flowers and surrounded by candles, is carried round on a -board, by a crowd and brass band; they come in, put it on a table or -somewhere. The band plays and the crowd fraternize and drink cana till -tired. Then to another house and this goes on till they are all drunk -and till the baby has to be buried. - - - - -AT SEA. - - "_Ye gentlemen of England who stay at home at ease, - How little do ye think upon the dangers of the seas._" - - -Eleven days in the Bay of Biscay off Tencriffe. A nasty sea; seems -to come everyway; knocks the ship one side and the other till she -trembles like a live thing. Engines only strong enough to keep us off -shore and we get out twice only to be driven back again. Life lines -out; fiddles on the table; water washing about saloon and cabins; one -lady, in a top berth, with her door swinging open and shut, wants to -know when we are going to be drowned; and "to have her cabin mopped -out." Another, who has been so ill ever since we left that she is -expected to die and who the captain wants to put ashore but can't -get there, has a husband looking after her. He becomes ill and she -suddenly gets well and stays so! What kind of a cure is this? The -stove breaks loose, but no fire; too much water. Rather an unlucky -ship; crank and cargo badly stowed, overmasted and undermanned; once -a fort'gallant yard came down endways through forecastle deck, lead -water tank, etc., made the splinters fly. Once a marine spike came -from aloft and stuck in the deck close to yours truly. Fog around St. -Paul's island. We took reckoning for three days but did not know where -we were. Expected to make the voyage in seventy-five days; took nearly -four months and when we did anchor ship ahead on fire broke loose and -drifted down on us, "those that go down to the sea in ships". One -night she was rolling horribly; people holding onto saloon rails, -steward came along top side rail and broke a man's hold, man flew -across and avoided crushing a girl in a red garibaldi, red hair, and -a pink ribbon (he should have crushed her) by spreading his arms and -feet as he brought up against the wall. Another steward stooped for a -turkey which was doing something in a big silver dish on the floor. -He loosed the rail as the ship rolled. Away went turkey and man, -getting to the other side. Man's head went whack. By the time he got -his wits, the ship had rolled again and the turkey was half way back. -Comforted oneself, remembering the man who when the ship was going -down, reflected that he had paid £12 to go to New York, and they "had -to take him there." - -[Illustration: "Down in the Saloon Boys"--"Bay of Biscay Oh!"] - - - - -A QUARREL IN CAMP. - - -Sunday afternoons here in camp there are horse races, bone game, -monte, drinking, etc. At the pulperias, at a race today, two brothers -quarrelled. One stands, knife in hand, talking to friends; the other -twenty feet away, is held back by men all around him, who getting -tired of persuasion begin to hammer him with their short whip stocks -made of wood or iron covered with hide or silver, with a long flat -rawhide thong. These rattle on his head like hail but he seems to feel -nothing and see nothing but his brother till suddenly he drops stunned. - -[Illustration: "Children, You Should Never Let Your Angry Passions -Rise."] - -Fighting here, a man wraps his poncho round the left forearm to catch -the other man's knife, holding his own knife below in the right hand -and watching the antagonist's knife instead of his eye. Sometimes they -face each other a long while but are as quick as cats when they move; -there is not much interference usually. Once a man on horseback rode -in and grasping one of the fighters by his long black hair pushed him -away backwards. Unless it is serious they do not fight to kill so much -as to slash faces; but they don't seem to care for their lives much. -A peon of mine was brought home an awful object. Santa (his woman) -wept and said he was killed but he got well, I asked the other fellows -afterward what they wanted to kill my fellow for and they laughed and -said a man did not matter; pity to kill a woman, as they are scarce; -but Santa could soon have got another man. The last is true enough. -One day a big domador started back to G's house, where we sat on the -porch and could see across the slope; he rode over. He had won money -or his silver harness, or for some other reason three fellows followed -him; he had a good little mare and rode till the one following who -had the best mount was ahead of the others. Then Jose jumped off and -waited, getting his knife (it was mine by the by), and the other man -rode up jumped off and ran at him, Jose made one thrust and jumping -on his mare rode in with his hand and knife all blood. Don't know who -the other man was but this time soldiers came after Jose who hid for -three weeks in the maize; his woman took him food. Then he appeared -again with three small black cats which he had found in the corn and -of which made pets. - -[Illustration: The Guanaco Episode.] - - - - -THE WITCHING HOUR. - - -Night in a little house on the pampas edge we got some girls together -and had a dance. The natives have gone home and men are sleeping all -over the floor and on the table over which is a sack of hard biscuits, -etc., slung to the rafters. Through the darkness and open door enters -one of two tame guanacos (something like small fawn-colored camels), -steps on a man who wakes with a shriek. One man on the table wakes -up, tries to sit up in a hurry, and the bag of biscuits meets him and -knocks him flat. Over goes the table and other man and everyone and -everything is mixed up with the guanaco in the dark till the brute -fights his way out of the house. Someone gets a light and saves the -pieces. - -[Illustration: Perrochino Trapped.] - -[Illustration: Fetching the Priest.] - - - - -PERROCHINO. - - -Woman calling for help at the end of hallway. Man wanders over to see -what is wrong. At the other end of the hall is a door and a crowd. -Wanderer jumps in and helps to hold the door, asking next man what is -going on. Perrochino, the strongest Italian in the colony, has got -into trouble and is jammed in the doorway, unable to do anything, -while one Spaniard beats his head with a chairleg. Head looks ugly and -the man is raging. Wanderer gets the door open a bit and Perrochino -slips out, his brother, who sees him from a distance, discreetly -slipping down a side street. Later lightning strikes a wheat stack and -most of the men go off with a tarpaulin to draw over and smother the -fire. Wanderer left to sit on the steps with a gun in case the Italian -should return to the Señora and niñito. He does not. - - - - -SMALLPOX. - - -Smallpox came our way; seemed to take a piece about a quarter of a -mile wide. Many died. Woman very ill and man went for Priest. Rainy -and windy night and the little lamp the man carried in front of the -Priest, who was saying prayers, kept blowing out and having to be lit -again. The atmosphere of the room was awful for the Priest. Antonia -and two men. Antonia was confessed and died. The others cleared and -next day the man got a Spanish carpenter (Tapia) and boards and -sixteen old kerosene cans from the store and they made a coffin and -lined it with the kerosene cans and put Antonia in; her feet were -tied with a ribbon and the smallpox lumps showed through her white -stockings. Some friends came at night and in the morning we soldered -her up and had the funeral. Two wheels and the coffin on boards -covered with a cloth, a cross with her name, etc., painted on it as -well as one could; all the mourners on horseback. We buried her. Hers -was the first death here. Her sister, who came to see her, was well -for two weeks; then she died in twenty minutes; she only had one mark -on her. - -[Illustration: Antonia's Funeral.] - -[Illustration: Near Corientes.] - - - - -"MAY GOOD DIGESTION WAIT ON APPETITE." - - -We had run out of meat and were living on a few hard biscuits and -oranges for two days in our boat on a big river in South America; but -today we ran up a creek to Corientes and found any quantity at fifty -cents the aroba (25 pounds); so we took some to the creek mouth and -Maria cooked it while we sat round with our hunting knives. Don't use -plates and things; when cooked you cut a piece off, lay hold with -your mouth and cut off your mouthful avoiding your nose. Cooking is -done by sticking an iron rod (if you have one) through the meat into -the ground slanting over the fire, turning it when one side is done. -Then we sailed off again and came to Parana after a while. There is -a revolution on (Blancos and Colorados) and the town population is -picknicking with bedding, etc., on an island in the river. In the town -men are on the flat roofs shooting at others scurring about in the -bush shooting back; also maniacs are riding about like drunken demons -cutting at anything that comes in reach. We got away after a bit and -past batteries on the river bluffs which don't notice us (too small, I -suppose), though we pass close to the tops of the funnels of a steamer -that they just sank. - -[Illustration: Cold Water Cure--Java.] - - - - -BUG HUNTING. - - -In Java you are (or were) only allowed to drive around the island. You -get a permit, from the Dutch, but are not to go into the interior far -from the landing place where there is the biggest banyan tree in the -world, it is said; a village could be put away in the arches. There -are also numbers of fighting cocks, a very fine cocoanut grove; and -lots of other fruits, bananas, plantains, etc. The ship doctor, who -was a collector of insects, and I got away seven miles or so over -small hills and through forest meeting only a few blacks and other -insects till we came to the Upas tree valley (the poison from these -trees was mostly used for arrows). It is said that anyone sleeping -under them dies, and it may be true--I don't know how soon death will -take place though. We did not sleep there. There are bones but other -animal's bones perhaps. They say that those that gathered the poison -soon died. Trees look like a palm. The doctor got some beetles and we -came back and eat bananas and things till time to return to the ship -with some little bullocks and vegetables. Our coxwain (quarter-master) -had been in the navy, and, with them I believe he stays by the boat -till all the others are away. Our ship is P. and O. and our cox was -standing at the foot of the gangway holding a stanchion and steadying -the boat with his foot. Captain looked over the side and called him. -Cox (who had had a drink ashore no doubt) did not move, captain spoke -to mate who ran down two or three steps and jumped landing on cox's -chest. Both went into the sea with a crash. Boat picked them up and -cox was put in irons. They spatch-cock chicken very well in Java. - -[Illustration: In Irons.] - -[Illustration: A Tormento.] - - - - -EVELINA. - - -A tormento generally begins with dust; then wind, then rain; the two -last fight furiously till the rain comes down solid, with now and -then blasts of wind through it. One usually sees them coming and -shuts everything that will shut. Huts are sent flying sometimes. I've -seen the roof of a house taken off, and a man get to a house on his -hands and knees. Oh, yes; she blows; and the rain! In one a man, his -peon, and woman, start out to get three favorite horses picketted -two hundred yards away. Man tells the woman to go back; but once -outside one can hardly see or hear, though people are close together. -Lightning all around and thunder that seems to shake the ground. There -is a white glare that feels hot and a crash of thunder and the peon -(Pascassio) called "my woman's dead! my woman's dead." - -[Illustration: "To Die! To Sleep--Perchance to Dream!"] - -Man says: "Is Evelina here?" - -"She's blown into the ditch." But the next minute he steps on her, -picks her up; sounds as if she said something but her head is wrapped -in a poncho, man gets her back to the house and lays her on her bed. -Sends peon, who does not know what he is doing and anyway, they won't -touch anything struck by lightning--to the nearest house where there -is a native woman, cooking. - -Petrona came, and did what was necessary. Evelina was dead when picked -up very heavy to carry. Only one little hole was burned in the poncho -and brown mark as big as one's finger nail on the back of her neck. -They put four candles around her in one corner and left. Man slept -in another corner and kept candles alight for them. They would not -stop and said the devil would come for her and take the man as well. -Man said the devil probably had better places to go to, and they said -he was the wickedest man they ever saw. Came back next afternoon and -spent the night singing, playing cards, praying, and drinking mate. -Two children went to sleep on the floor, man got up, put "kids" in his -bed, and joined the wake. Next day they took Evelina away and left the -man alone again. - -[Illustration: Rats! Musk Rats.] - -[Illustration: On the Calumet.] - - - - -SHOOTING IN ILLINOIS. - -"_The days that are no more._" - - -The way you used to catch the wily muskrat years ago on the Calumet -River was to set a tooth trap in the water, in one of his runs in -summer; in winter you could skate or walk to their houses, built -of reeds, three feet high, and dome shaped, and spear them with a -three-foot spear on a pole. The skins, taken off and dried by being -stretched on willow twigs, were worth seventeen cents a piece. -Big ducks sold for two and a half to three dollars a dozen to the -dealers--canvas back, red-heads, etc.--smaller ones, Teal, blue-bills, -widgeon, butter balls, etc., for two dollars. - -There were fellows there making a good living at hunting and trapping, -and some owned farms on the river bank. - -The duck-shooting was the best I have had in any country. Now I -believe there is still some shooting held by clubs. The Pullman place -is where we used to shoot hundreds of birds beyond where the best -shooting house (Chittendens) used to be, where the river forks. Then -you could shoot forty miles up to the Grand Calumet and there were -lakes and swamps, flight shooting night and morning, and in the day -one could pole through the wild rice; etc., or take a stand now and -then, or land and try the ridges for prairie chicken. There were also -woodcock and snipe. Further away the pineries for deer. Still hunting, -because there were Indians who would shoot dogs; they do spoil still -hunting. You would not see the Indian as the brush was very thick. If -you do see him and shoot at him and miss him, as one of us did, it is -better not to go again. We did, and a bullet came between us and stuck -in a tree. The man I was with did not like Indians and shot at them -when he got a chance. - -[Illustration: L-- and F. W. Shot With the P. of W. When He Was Here -(in Chicago), Missed His "Injin".] - -[Illustration: "I'm a Simple Little Ostrich, But I Know It All,"] - - - - -AFTER OSTRICHES. - - -On the South American pampas you ride one horse and lead your fastest -when you are after ostriches. The birds raise their wings and sail -before the wind at an awful pace and if you do not get up to one soon -after he starts you might as well give up. When you get near you -change horses, and, taking your bolas (three balls as big as pigeon -eggs of lead or brass, on a plaited rawhide thong) from around your -middle, begin to swing them around in your right hand keeping your -finger hooked through the fork of the thong, holding one ball in your -hand. As you close up, you bring them over your head, letting your -finger loose them to their six foot length. You send your gee along -and, bending forward, loose them at your ostrich. If you hit him, -the bolas tangle him up and down he comes. If there are holes and -things, you come down instead. It is a fast thing and as often as not -or oftener you are bareback. Sometimes fellows make a big circle and -close in on the birds; then you have a lively time, particularly if -you play at being an ostrich yourself. - -[Illustration: Ostriches--On the Look-out.] - -[Illustration: Somerset and Yo.] - -[Illustration: Whitlow, From Tree Pruning. South America.] - -[Illustration: Men off H. M. "Rattler".] - - - - -A WHITLOW. - - -Pain! oh yes! Fourteen days in and out of bed alone in a shanty, -forty miles from town. Whitlow they call it; an Indian woman advised -a piece of willow burned and the powder mixed with the yolk of an egg -in the shell; no good. Animals to feed, water to draw, etc., when -one is so scared of one's own finger that one breaks a demijohn up -and cuts a hole in the wicker cover in which to slip one's hand in -bed. Not much to eat and one gets weaker, but has sense enough not to -stay too long in a room with a gun. Got the old horse (Somerset) and -saddle on someway and to town. Lot of English sailors off a gunboat -in the hotel, dancing and singing. Two are interested and want to -know if man will come aboard because they "have a sawbones who will -take it off with a handsaw." Well, surgeon cuts the finger up both -sides and later the other two sides; couldn't tell what it was; never -be a success again. One can see what it was meant for. Another time -diphtheria. Doctor came one hundred and thirty miles and found man -with his head in a blanket on the table, no brush and made one out of -prairie wolf hair; did his throat like cleaning a gun; man got well. - -[Illustration: Diphtheria at Pera.] - -[Illustration: Buchaton's Death in la Candelaria.] - - - - -BUCHATON. - - -Three houses now in this colony, joining Indian Territory. Mine was -first; then a Frenchman came and used my well and corral, etc., till -he got settled half a mile away; and another is being put up for a -store. One foggy night, or morning rather (1 A. M.), some one woke me, -rapping on the door. As I was alone and one did not expect people, or -open the door after dark without knowing what is on the other side, I -asked and a woman's voice answered; opened and there was Buchaton's -wife with two small children. They had found the house luckily after -two hours in the fog. Her man had been doing something with the stove -and had words with an Argentino and friend. The Argentino started -for him with his knife but the wife got it and threw it away (man -was a little drunk). He picked it up again and killed the Frenchman; -then they tied him up with a lasso (the woman had run out with the -children), got their horses, and left. Some of us got horses and went -to the house but the man was dead; there was a trail in the wet grass -in the moonlight but we never caught them as they changed horses and -got over the line into another state. - -[Illustration: Acclimatizing Fever--Shanghai.] - -[Illustration: Oil Springs Typhoid--Canada.] - - - - -FEVER. - - -In China and some other places one has a fever getting acclimated. -One in Shanghai left man pretty weak when the usual plague of boils -broke out. Then there was less rest for the wicked than ever, and he -balanced himself on a boil and thought about Job. The doctor says that -the man is better and that this is a crisis he wanted (man wishes -doctor had it). But man does get well after many dawns, watching the -bats come home to roost in the round tiles used in the roofs here. -Then cats come along the edge and reaching paws over extract the bats -and put them away and go after more. The man thinks he's glad he's not -a bat and goes to sleep and wakes up better and forgets about it till -some day years after he dreams dreams. - -Talking of fevers, when the oil wells started in Canada it was rather -rough living. The water to drink very bad, and so on. At all events -we got a bad mixture of typhoid and smallpox and not much doctor. So -a great many died. One of us had it and another nursed him till he -got to his bed and forgot everything except sticking a favorite pin -in a rafter overhead. The other was better and had sent a line to -friends a hundred miles away; they came, and the two men were put on -their mattresses on the bottom of a wagon and so over eighteen miles -of corduroy road (which is trees laid alongside one another) and -into the baggage car of a railroad train. The war was going on and -sympathetic passengers came in: "Oh, poor fellows! where were they -wounded?" Our friends said: "not wounded at all; typhoid," and the car -was empty. Took us nine weeks to get around. H. McC. carried one along -the railway platform and if you have ever been carried through a lot -of people when you have sense enough to know that you are grown up and -want to hit some one if you had the strength, you know what one felt -like--Wonder who got that pin! - -[Illustration: Baggage.] - -[Illustration: A Night on the "Grimsel" Pass--Switzerland] - - - - -TO SLEEP, TO SLEEP. - - -We did not know this morning if we would stay the night and went out -for a walk. While away twenty-seven geological students arrived and -took everything and more in the shape of beds; so here we are in a big -attic of a little house on top of the Grinsel Pass in Switzerland. The -room is the cheese room surrounded by shelves on which immense gruyere -cheeses are drying--all kinds of makeshift beds on the floor and for -washing little basins and wine bottles on a bench; lovely! Went to bed -midnight and as we leave at 4 a.m. and the interval is filled up by -a number of peasants yodeling--below why "Happy, happy, happy be thy -dreams." - -[Illustration: Death.] - -[Illustration: Katrina.] - - - - -HALF THE WORLD DON'T KNOW HOW THE OTHER HALF LIVES OR DIES. - - -A small hut made of reeds, lost in an immense swamp--the home of a -girl and an old gaucho. Man gone; don't know when or where, leaving -the girl stripped and tied with a piece of a lasso to a post in the -hut, stabbed and dead. She was quite young and rather pretty--poor -thing. - -At another place found the German girl who cooked for the S----s, -stripped and tied down in the prairie just outside the village. Three -natives (horseback of course) caught her and carried her off and -staceared her. (I don't know how they spell it but that is what it's -called in Spanish) means pegging your hands and feet with rawhide to -the ground. Under her was a knife; suppose they meant to kill her but -got scared away. She died; had been there all night. - -[Illustration] - -[Illustration: British Benevolent Society--2 A. M.] - - - - -HARD TIMES--AGAIN. - - -A man (in California) lying in bed dying; wife ill in bed in the next -room watching him through the open door; third and last room divided -by sheets into two, one-half with stove in it, the other used by -anyone including seven children all under nine years old. No money. -The man died; money was collected and he was buried; and family sent -back to Europe. S. P. railway made a reduction on fares; train was to -leave at 10 p.m., telegram to say it would be 11 p.m. - -The woman, children, and man waited till eleven when another message -came to say the cars would not be in till 2 a.m. So they went over -to the hotel and got a sleep till a quarter to two when the man woke -them up and the procession trailed back and got aboard. Trainman -interested: "Where's she goin'?" "Europe," said the man. - -"With all them kids! Never get there alive." - -She did though; man nearly went also as he was inside the car putting -a big roll of mattresses through the door and they jammed, cars were -moving and man crawled over the top of the bundle and slid onto -the platform and off the car saying to an astonished conductor who -appeared from somewhere, "you get those mattresses in old man." - -[Illustration: The "Cisne" at the Old Wharf Rosario--Santa Fé.] - - - - -"THERE WAS A SHIP QUOTH HE." - - -Coming down the Plata River in the "Cisne" steamer a fellow passenger -asked us to help him when we landed. We said we would. Well, it was -very dark and raining; we landed under a wharf, arrangement on the -other side of which was a ten-foot steep and slippery mud-bank on -top of which were one or two wheel carts made with a pole with a -hole in the far end. The carter slips a rawhide fast to his horse's -cinch, through the pole hole and makes fast, he (riding the horse) -can then pull, or if he wants to back, ride his horse around the pole -and push backwards. To return to our mutton, what our man wanted was -help to land a portmanteau and some heavy small boxes and we got them -into a cart after a weary time sliding up and down that mud bank and -much indifferent language. One native rode and two friends kept him -company. We had to go two miles over a wicked road. The tall grass -grows right up to it on both sides and there have been a lot of -unpleasant things happening; so we had our guns in our hands. We had -found out that our friend from Paraguay, one of his prisoners Lopez -left alive, had been trading and the boxes, etc., were full of gold, -and silver dollars. Got to the hotel all right and had a drink. There -was a funny little old man with hair over his shoulders and white -beard to his middle and very old clothes. He looked lonely so we -asked him to drink. No, he did not drink. Smoke? No; he did not smoke -but he put a cigar in his pocket. Felt curious about him and asked -him and the capitalist to my room, also, drink and cigars. They came -and oh, yes! I had struck it rich. The little man was I think doing -penance. He would not say why he had tramped hundreds of leagues -through the wildest parts of the country with some polenta to eat -and no arms except a small pocket knife, or why he had not cut hair -or beard for seven years; but the stories those men told each other, -myself sitting listening till 4 a.m. with hardly a word; and they -could have gone on for weeks. I said that queer things happened on the -road we came here by, in the grass that borders the road back a little -way are adobe huts and very queer people live there. Everyone carries -a knife of course but the police had a very bad character for a time. -At another men riding were lassoed from the grass and you are gone -if a lasso gets you. At another the natives did not like it because -a number of men were killed one by one and there were stories of a -ghost. Soldiers hunted and some of us went out many nights. At last -some one was stabbed but before he died shot a tall man dressed as a -woman. What with the night, tall grass in which to slip out of sight, -and dark dress, the ghost theory is easy. His trick had been to ask -you for the time or for a light, and stab you as you got it. For -some time after if one was asked for a light about there after dark, -one threw a matchbox and said help yourself. - -[Illustration: O'Geary.] - -[Illustration] - - - - -HEALTH AND APPETITE. - - -Sitting in a little park in Los Angeles some one sat down on the other -end of the bench. Seeing a dilapidated pair of boots that did not -match I went on reading. After a while the stillness was broken by: -"Got ten cents pardner?" - -"What do you want ten cents for?" said I. - -"Well, pardner, I'm here from Milwaukee, was in the lumber trade -there and got six dollars a day, my brother has a big place there; -he sent me some money yesterday, I got broke, an' I went on a tear -an' spent it all, an' my mouth's awful dry an' I want a drink." It -sounded straight so we had a talk about the Keeley cure about which -I told him, and about Florida and lumber about which he told me and -compromised on twenty-five cents of which he agreed to spend fifteen -on solid food; hope he did. - -[Illustration: "Tramp, Tramp, Tramp, the Boys Are Marching."] - - - - -KNUCKLE-DUSTING. - - -Coming up from Aspinwall to New York, a second-class passenger came -into the first-class saloon and a big steward objected. Man did not -like it and when the steward swore at him, he struck the steward (much -the biggest man) and knocked him down; the steward said the man used -a knife; no one had seen a knife but over the Steward's heart was a -little tear in his white duck. Captain took a hand, and steward, who -had had a bad record was put in irons. Other man turned out to be an -artist; had been through Borneo--of all places--and come out alive -with a wonderful lot of pictures and photographs (burned later). Came -into my cabin as he wanted to copy a little sketch of Panama. Showed -me how that tear happened; he used a knuckle-duster that was in his -pocket when he (the steward) came at him the second time. An ugly -thing; iron ring with holes that your fingers go through, short spikes -over your knuckles, and a longer one below your clenched hand. - -[Illustration: The Knuckle-duster.] - -[Illustration: Callers!] - - - - -WANDERERS. - - -Making a fire after a long day in the boat and not thinking there was -anyone else for miles; rather there was not, as the nearest place is -the line between two states where a number of "bad men" have settled. -When the soldiers from one state come for any of them (if they ever -do) the men can step over the line. Well, we were getting wood and -one of us came out of the night with a fellow walking behind, knife -in hand (such a foolish thing; why not in front?) A canoe slid out of -the fog with two muffled women astern, and three more men who got out -and stood round the fire. As they had their knives out, one of us left -fishing in the boat and passed guns round to our side. Then we talked -and ate. They were very free and easy villains but went off into the -fog again all right. After keeping watch awhile we went to sleep. - - - - -"THE WEARY PLOUGHBOY." - - -"The weary ploughboy homeward bound," and not knowing one day from -another here we were ploughing with bullocks when a man riding by -said: "Thought you English did not work Sundays." My brother was -wild; he threw the ear ropes down and wanted to know "If he'd lived -all these years and traveled all these miles to plough Sundays with -adjectived bullocks in a condemned country!" Bullocks are trying. The -Reverend--looking out of the train at Frayle Muerto saw an Englishman -swearing wonderfully at his bullocks. The Reverend told him to be -gentle; the man being angry threw his ropes down, telling the Reverend -to take them around himself. The Reverend did so; and it is said -that by the time he got around--well you can guess. We got a little -two-wheeled cart and with a broncho not used to driving. Some one -behind him with his leather belt and buckle; and a peon on a horse -in front to pull him along, and so across camp to a railway and my -brother went back to England. The rest of the outfit got home somehow. - -[Illustration: Nineteen Miles to Go Across Camp and "The Day is -Departing, de-par-ar-ting."] - - - - -A QUARREL--CANDELARIA. - - -Swede playing billiards with an Italian in a cafe full of Italians; -they quarrelled and the Swede used his cue and the Italian a small -knife, as the manager came in the Swede went down and some men bolted. - -[Illustration: Bringing in Ruffinelli.] - -[Illustration: Our Last Night on the "Plata".] - -Manager locked the doors with thirty or forty inside but the man had -gone. Three of us went through houses where men were sleeping and then -a mile into camp to a house where two Italians and a big dog lived; -knocked; man appeared behind dog in doorway. H told him to call off -his dog; would not; so H shot the dog and we went in. Found Ruffinelli -in bed, pretending sleep; shirt covered with blood and head tied up; -not pretty to look at. Put him on a horse and tied his feet together, -brought him to the only brick building in town. Some got on top of it -with guns while the manager did sentry; there are hundreds of Italians -here. A stage starts for town at 8 A. M. and the manager suggested -that if there were no passengers the stage should take the man in -now before the other gentlemen woke up, and we could go to bed. It -was done, and Ruffinelli went off and later got seven years on the -frontier. - - - - -FIRE AGAIN. - - -A cold night on this big river though we are getting south now after -our thousand miles in our little boat; so we got ashore and supped -on grebe which reminded one of red herrings. Found a little grass -hut built by a woodcutter possibly, and three of us snuggled up on -the floor, just big enough, with a candle and part of a book. Heaven -knows where the man got it. Well, we went to sleep and the bookman -knocked the candle over and the fire ran up the hut luckily one of -us woke and put it out and the others never knew and told the fireman -next noon that "he had been dreaming"; is so, why that black streak? -Another morning we found a big jaguar and cub had passed a yard from -A's head. They were grunting all night close to us in the jungle, and -could not have been hungry as there were five of us to choose from. -Got aboard and got lost on the Chaco side of the river. This gran -Chaco is an endless maze of creeks and little islands covered with -trees and jungle, no birds or beasts seemingly and the fish won't bite -often. There are some hostile Indians but the chances are greatly in -favor of starving to death, a desolate place but the wind brought us -to the river again and when the cox wanted to go about, it blew so -fresh that mast and big lateèn sail went. Two of us jumped and held on -to it but it was hard on finger nails and as there was quite a little -sea our small boat was tumbling about. We all had our trousers rolled -up to our knees except Maria, who was a Paraguayan woman and wife of -Salvador, a Portuguese, who we called Joe. Fortunately there was a -little island on to which we drifted. Maria was frightened and knelt -down a few yards off, with her skirt over her head, for five minutes, -like an image. Then she rose up and said: "It is a bad wind; we shall -not get to Rosario alive," and set to work like a little man. We -fixed our mast up with fish lines and whatever we had. Drifting again -on the Chaco side where the jungle is not as thick as on the other, -with more trees. We ran in to look at what turns out to be boughs bent -over in a half-circle, once a tiny hut four feet high. Now the thatch -is gone and there is two or three inches of water and rotten leaves, -sitting in which and leaning against the boughs is a skeleton and a -worm-eaten flint lock musket alongside, the skull has rolled or been -blown off and lies there. What a death! miles of dark silent forest -behind, in front the immense river, the wash of which is the only -sound. Poor devil, wonder who it was once! We left it sitting there -and I do not suppose anyone will come across it again. - -[Illustration: A Dismal Swamp--Hundreds of Miles of It. Ye Gran Chaco.] - -[Illustration: Shipwrecked.] - -[Illustration: A Lonely Skeleton.] - -[Illustration] - - - - -TWO FALLS AND A COW. - - -Chasing a little cow bareback and riding loosely she made a quick turn -and the mare stuck to her just where we had worn a track bringing the -adobes for houses. Man's head struck the track and a native woman -carried the remains into a house and doctored him. Another time, -sitting on a blanket strapped around a tall black beast with a back -like the roof of a church, and leading a mare, dogs came and scared -the mare, man held but the rope was only around the mare's neck and, -as she was faster than the horse, man was pulled forward over the -horse's head, one hand full of reins, revolver, and mane, the other -of the mare. Strap round the blanket loosened and away went man -onto his back. Mare dragged him fifty yards over burned camp and the -skin came off his arms and the black stuff rubbed in. Took some time -to heal and he could not get up for a while because he thought his -back was broke; also he had to swear at the dog owners when they ran -up. One day, as we stood about among some piles of brick, a cow stood -pawing the dust up near, suddenly she charged and all got on brick -piles except one who thought it was all right because he was behind a -heap; but the cow turned round the corner and came at him head down -and tail up. Now would you think that that man stood perfectly still -and watched the cow's shoulder wondering if he had a sword whether he -could hit the right spot? We had been seeing a good many bull fights -lately. Anyway when he jumped to one side he did it mechanically and -the cow's horn tore his coat. She kept straight on though. - -[Illustration: The Mare Wins Easy.] - -[Illustration: El Hombre ò la Vaca.] - - - - -REAL GHOSTS. - - -Did you ever keep house for friends gone away? If you have not, don't -do it, the place is full of ghosts of live people, this is quite -unfair. No well conducted live person should have a ghost; but there -they are, and their feet go hither and thither making no sound, and -their mouths eat at meals though the food never gets less, and they -talk to you and to each other. You know what they say though there is -no sound, and you get no answer if you speak to them. One does not -really object to it; they are just like the live people in a way; -they have exactly the same ways as the people they seem to be. They -seem to hear your remarks and pass them by; often I fancy you are -like a ghost to them, but one is not sure because if so why do they -listen to you? Still, as I said, one does talk to them--but they don't -answer. Do they expect you to reply to them; mine don't. In the open -air, gardening or filling up time someway, they are not with one so -much; it is at meals mostly. What becomes of them later. When you -come into the place at night the stillness is wonderful either in the -black darkness or with the bright moonlight shadowing everywhere with -wraiths of boughs and plants; but one misses the ghosts; there is only -an open grave; there's nothing in it. - -[Illustration: Real Ghosts.] - - - - -ON THE SAN RAFAEL RANCH. - - -Once on a time there was a ranch with a church on it amongst other -things. There was also a winery, and a man for whom the manager tried -to find work that he could do, having got down to weeding which was -not a success, he gave him the winemaker's shanty in which to sleep -close to the winery which he was to see was safe; and Sundays he was -to sweep the church by 11 o'clock. The manager had been doing this -when he took the flowers down formerly, coming down the first Sunday -that the man was to have done it, it was not done; so after getting -the church ready, the manager drove to the winery and found the door -forced, shouted down a trap door and the man appeared from below, -saying that four men with clubs had broken in; he watched them from -his window being afraid to interfere; but there were four empty wine -bottles in his room, he was told to pack. As he was sulky and wanted -to argue with a club full of nails to help him, he was put on the -floor and his head bumped till he was reasonable; the blacksmith put -his head in and requested that the man should not be killed. Manager -said he was not worth it and sent blacksmith off to put him on the -cars. Had smith fix the winery door again, after which they went to -church just in time to meet the clergyman from town. A very pretty -little church, built in memory of her husband who owned the ranch on -the road to the village (one hundred and ranch, by his widow. There -is a long tunnel on this thirty yards long) made by the last owner -trying for coal. When he did not find coal, he made a road of the -tunnel, and a big reservoir by banking at one end, fifty feet of this -embankment washed out in our big flood year (ground squirrels had -been working in it) and swept a railroad bridge away further down. We -come through nights without a light often and feel our way along the -sides with the whip, as dark a place as I ever was in, and there is -not above eighteen inches to spare, each side your wheels. Coming out -at one end there is a long downhill and once on a wagon with no break -or foot board. Sitting on top of a load of wheat the wagon ran onto -the four horses and away we went, the driver swung the horses off the -road onto the plough to the mountains, the only way to save a smash; -but as he swung, the rope loosened with the jerk and landed the sack -he sat on and him on his back in the road, close to the wheel, luckily -turning from him. He threw up the reins, the plough, etc., stopped the -horses and another man and he having sorted them out, got a better -wagon. That is enough about ranching. - -[Illustration: The Day of Rest.] - -[Illustration: Saionara.] - -[Illustration: - - "Went down the hill without the drag on, - Poor Mary Ann. - Mother she waxed her, petted her and kissed her, - Docter he came and he put on a blister, - If she'd a' died we'd never a' missed her; - Poor Mary Ann." -] - -[Illustration: Man in a Slough.] - - - - -EXPRESS CHARGES. - - -In the pineries (Illinois), where there was shooting, a man got lost, -they are twelve miles through timber, ridges, and sloughs covered with -green moss that closes over you if you don't mind your ways. This man -luckily came across a solitary railroad track and as he had been out -a good while and was seven miles from home he sat down to smoke and -think about things. Then the handcar came along, three men; so the -shootster, who knew many of the men, got on and worked his passage -leaving his spaniel, Dash, to run. We came along, talking and singing, -till we came to the quarter mile long trestle bridge over the Calumet -and swamps. Here an express turned up behind us and we started to -work; oh, yes; we worked with that beast of a train getting closer. We -could not stop to get off the track, but we got to the little station -and a man at the switch had time to let us off while the express -thundered by. Whether they saw us or not we never knew; if they did it -was a cruel game to play and when we got in we sat on a woodpile and -felt queer. My dog turned up half an hour later; the pace was too good -for him at first. The undergrowth is so thick in those woods that you -cannot see any distance. It was here two brothers, shooting forward, -and whistling to know where each other was came to the edge of the -tall trees. A woodcock got up and shot off through the brush down this -edge. One man shot it and, looking beyond as he loaded, saw something -he could not make out. It turned out to be his brother's head. - -"What are you waiting for?" said No. 1. - -"The rest of the charge," said he, "you've shot me." - -[Illustration: Express Charges--Pittsburg & Fort Wayne R. R.] - -[Illustration: F. P. Long Stop.] - -"Oh, shot your grandmother," said No. 1. But all the same there was -one little spot of blood on his left cheekbone and I could feel the -shot which he never would take out though I wanted to; it was my shot -anyway. - - - - -COTTON PACKING. - - -In Shanghai it was against the law to pack cotton at night but it was -done, one night, in a big go-down, a lot of Chinese on a platform -ten feet above the floor were running round a capstan as if getting -up anchor, only their thing works downwards, around, around to their -eternal chant of ha ho, ha, hao o ha. Two fell over the edge. Now -there were pigs of lead piled up below and their skulls cracked like -eggs. The other fellows did not seem to care much and in the morning -carried the bodies off in their ropes and probably threw them in the -weeds a little way outside town. On the Bubbling Well road (so called -because there is a well that always has a bubble coming up from the -bottom), it used to be horrible sometimes in one's early morning ride. -They are rather an awful people, and there are razor-backed hogs that -roam around. - -[Illustration: "Roll Dat Cotton."] - -[Illustration] - -[Illustration] - -Acapulco is a queer little place, mostly heat, blacks, shell work, -sharks, etc. There are immense sharks (about sixteen feet). They won't -look at pork with or without a hook in it. What do they eat. Must be -mostly the stuff thrown from ships. Some say that they run up into the -surf and catch the little darkies by the legs. Anyway they are big and -fat and there are lots of them. - -A war with the French is about to begin and the ships are expected but -have not come; so we can't land some French officers who are here to -join their ships--not good for them ashore just now. - -We were round, look, see business, and there was a fuss, and a fellow -shot and missed; but the bullet got my leg. Curious it did not sting -but was more like a blow; did not break anything though. The native -imitations of flowers (shell work) are very pretty and there is lots -of coral, etc. Only a small place and not much clothing. An old fort -at the entrance with mouldy cannon, harbor to get into which one goes -up a passage that is parallel to the coast. You can't see anyway in -when you are out, or out when you are in, is like a big pond with -a grove of cocoanuts on the far side from the village but no other -trees except a palm or two, the colors of the mountains are fine, and -the young fry dive any distance after money thrown to them, as they -do at all these places, carry it in their mouths, their only pocket. -Principal industries, when there is no ship to coal, lying in (and -out of) the sun and drinking; as some one said: "Customs beastly -manners none." - - - - -MAN OVERBOARD. - - -Aboard a ship where there were a lot of young men passengers, and -jumping back and forth over open hatches, diving from the yardarm, -catching sharks, and revolver practice at men-of-war hawks, molly -hawks, cape pigeons, catching albatross with a hook and line, etc., -were among the amusements, some of us met at about 11 A. M. to -breakfast in a cabin the owner of which had a hamper of cakes and two -boxes of Partaga and Regalia Brittanica cigars, these men amongst whom -were a T-- and two M's--had been brought up on civilized things so the -unfortunate owner's cigars went fast. One of us poor fellows was too -fond of drinks and other things and had no business to have come as -he soon got d.t's. and was shut up in his cabin with a sentry. Some -way he got out, ran the length of the saloon, and dived through the -big stern window, through the glass, bending the guard rods right and -left. A man standing by the wheel on deck above, looking aft, saw the -head and arms of a man rise on the top of a following wave, shouted -"man overboard", and threw a preserver. The captain was very good -and we went astern for an hour or more which was dangerous with the -sea that was running; had a boat out too. Then we picked up the boat -and went ahead and he floated alongside near where he went overboard. -They tried everything, though he had already been a little eaten by -fish. Several of our crowd on this ship could not stand the new life -after landing. H shot himself. W shut himself up with brandy and drank -till he died; and so on. - -[Illustration: Coaling--Rio Janeiro.] - -[Illustration: Man Overboard--Bay of Biscay.] - - - - -"THE OLD OAKEN BUCKET." - - -If you do not know what baldearing is and are short of amusement, tie -the end of a well rope to your cinch and then walk your horse away -eighty feet or so till your bucket comes up full, if you like to and -have a trough along side, arrange it so that bucket catches and tilts -at the top so as to let the water into the trough, or 'troff' as I -suppose it will be spelled later. Then walk your horse back and down -goes your bucket. The first time one man tried, as he turned he let -the rope touch the horse and this horse did not approve. It whirled -around a few times, tied himself up in a knot, and over they went. -Horse up again some way and got to the end of his rope in a hurry. The -two brick pillars of the well (the pride of the man's heart) crumbled -away and off went that animal with eighty foot or so of suga, the -bucket, and the cross beam, into a drove of mares which stampeded -all over the world. Don't know what became of the mares but we got -the horse fifty miles from home next day. He was a good beast but -nervous about ropes apparently. It is better to have a quieter gee for -baldearing. - -[Illustration: Act I.--The Great Baldearing Trick.] - -[Illustration: Act II.] - - - - -A DOG'S TALE. - - -Lx, who was one of the Prince of Wales shooting party around about -Chicago (F. W. was there also), had one of the dogs they shot over -with him. He was a liver colored pointer named Grouse, and one of the -most cantankerous beasts in temper I ever saw. Once he growled at Mark -(A No. 1 bullterrier owned by my brother). Mark was the quietest dog -unless he was bothered. He went for Grouse who jumped away so quickly -that Mark only reached his tail. It healed all right but left a lump -and we thought L-- would be wild when he returned. However, he was -not, but thanked Frank, as he said Grouse bit when he was threshed and -L used to hold him by the tail and when he turned to bite hit him with -one of those short knotted dog whips; then Grouse would try the other -side and get straightened out again. So L was obliged; as he said he -never could hold him before as he could now from behind. This is a -true dog story. L was the man who always shot at an Indian. - -[Illustration] - -[Illustration: The Tale of Grouse.] - - - - -ARDEN. - - -Leaving el Toro after about a ten mile drive over two ranges of small -mountains, through wild flowers, grain, cotton wood, and live oak -trees and by a creek, a fine drive but not for wild horses, you wind -past the home farm and turn sharply to your right over a bridge with -a swing gate, to find yourself suddenly amongst big lawns and live -oaks, great beds of roses and flowers, shrubbery, and a little lake -and glass houses. At the back of this eight acres or more is a natural -terrace one hundred feet high, covered with live oaks, geraniums, -creepers, etc., and up which goes a flight of steps to the orange -orchard at the top. Back of this on the mountains, they are all -round. At the foot of this terrace stands the house, a long rambling -collection of rooms, porches, entrances, open-air dining-room, etc., -very prettily built to harmonize with the scenery. From the inside -one looks out into a green sea of a dozen different shades of green; -inside it is a perfect place, everything one can want from madame down -to cocktails at which Mr. B. is a pastmaster. Pictures, music, books, -and most of them with histories. The rides and walks up the canyon -are beautiful, the one that goes on past the house winds through the -mountains and across and across the creek, ferns and flowers are all -about and one passes two little cabins, in the furthest of which they -lived when they first came out, there are stories of a bear that -comes here but we don't see anything of him--there are live stock, -olives, oranges, etc., and bees, on the ranch. Friends are always -coming and going, carriages meeting the train at el Toro twice a week -for friends, and so many visitors (and uninvited guests) come that -there has been a well sunk and grounds made for picnic parties about -a quarter of a mile from the house. "Arden" is its name and madame -played Rosalind on the lawn once, where the hammocks and tables for -afternoon tea, etc., are, one forgets that there is any world outside -here, why should you remember when there is all you want, and nothing -to remind you? There are papers of course if you can't let them alone. -"The world forgotten, by the world forgot", is something like it but -not nice enough, and we do a little honey business and get stung -enough to see what it is like, and sometimes garden with musical -interludes and play whist and poker, and fight about gardening or -cards, or whether dried currants are currants, and make cigarettes -with crafty little machines, and go walks and get flowers sometimes -drive or ride or shoot or fish, or watch R making a contraption for -pumping water out of the lake, or go up to where a 40-foot high dam is -starting across a road where the rocks nearly meet, this will make a -big lake, more water, fish and boating, you don't know how the days go -till you are away--then you know. - -[Illustration: Arden, 1897.] - - Los Angeles, October 14, 1897. - - Well, beginning on the left is the little house Mr. B and - Madame went to stay, but when she was getting better last - time, they said it was dryer than her own room--next that - is an enclosed yard with a store room at the back and over - it a room where her theatrical dresses are kept, the - little house right off that is the house girls' rooms, in - front of the last is a bed of carnations and where the two - girls are is the open air dining room, next that is the - indoor dining room, kitchen behind, then Nashtia's room - with a rustic well in front, part of dining room behind - and part of kitchen and big pantry behind that--then an - entrance and little hall behind which is my room as they - call it and bathroom beyond--then Mr. Bozentas' study, hall - behind and then the room with the church windows (the odd - window is a seat of Madames) this a very large room and - goes the whole depth of the house and up to the rafters - with a big granite fireplace and no end of pretty things in - it. I suppose you would call it a drawing room--then there - is a spare bedroom, hall and another bedroom at the back, - then an entrance with a bathroom beyond the hall--then Mr. - B's room with Madame's at the back and these open onto - a wide deep porch with Japanese screens and trellis and - creepers which is the end--the kitchen garden is beyond - the shrubbery to the left and that lawn runs to the right - ever such a way to the farmyard entrance--at the back is - a deep hill 50 yards high or more covered with live oak, - geraniums, wild grasses and so on--on top there is an - orange and olive orchard--in front excepting drives it is - all garden and shrubbery to a creek with a swing gate, I - dare say there are 8 or 10 acres, all this and a small - valley are shut in by high mountains and you exist in a - sort of green sea. That is Madame by her porch, the girls - on the right were Misses Langenberger, Yorke and Easton. - I am doing roses on the well, Annie and Maggie are in the - open dining room, Nashtia is by the little house, Mr. B is - talking to Johnny, left front, Sam is watering with his - small and faithful Bobilo dog near him, the other dog is - a big hound named Rock. If you keep this till you get the - sketch perhaps you can make it out. - -[Illustration: Weeding.] - -[Illustration: 1900--Beginning of the D----.] - -[Illustration: Let Go!] - -[Illustration: They're Off!] - - - - -HORSES. - -"A horse, a horse, my kingdom for a horse." - - -One man who was nervous wanted to drive forty miles across camp to -Rosario, Santa Fé, and one of us who was not nervous said he would -drive the pair of greys; one had been in harness twice and the other -not at all; but the trap and harness were strong. So when the driver -went to start and found them loading chains and ironware in case there -was a runaway, he had it out again; there are no fences or ditches and -all there was to do if they did runaway was to head for Rosario, they -did, after trying if they could fly, horses buck here more than they -kick, and when they wanted to stop the driver prevailed on them with a -whip to keep on till one tried to fall down and nearly pulled him over -the dashboard, but they got to town. Talking of bucking; we have some -prize-takers. We all tried one and no one could stay on. Sometimes -a piece of wood is used which you tie in front and push your knees -under, or a blanket rolled up helps. Another, a beautiful labuno, was -brought for me one day, the Señora who knew the horse, asked if I was -a domador which I am not at all, she said "better not get on" and next -day I knew she was right. Our best rider was going to try but the -horse went around in circles at the end of a lasso, bucking like an -airy fiend, everything flying till he broke away and no one got near -him for hours, then he was captured with bolas, all this is different -from hunting or riding races, the horse seems to express his opinions -more freely and forcibly here, and one wants a special education. In -Australia I know there is plenty of bucking, but I never was there, -we had some horses from there in China, one of them (F--s) bucked his -saddle over his head and never broke the girths. I did not see this -but it is true. Another fell in a race and would not get up although -fire-crackers were let off among his legs; then they tied a chain to -him and dragged him away. Don't know if he ever got up. One Tartar -pony I knew ran away with a Consul and up forty steps into the grand -stand, another in a race jumped on top on one of these wide mud walls, -and as he had his fore legs one side and hind legs the other he had to -be taken off. I was riding in these races and we had no end of fun; -last a week, but two men were nearly killed and one horse quite. - -[Illustration: Russian Consul Going for the Grand Stand--Shanghai.] - -[Illustration: "Get on Ferguson."] - -[Illustration: One on the Wall.] - -[Illustration: A Bad 'un to Mount.] - -[Illustration: Lloyd's "Crumpler" on Miss Louise. Steeple. Flat.] - - - - -SUDDEN DEATH. - - -In Los Angeles on Main street a hack drove along and one man directed -another's attention to two girls in it. They were very pretty but like -many others, had their faces covered with white powder, these were -Mexicans. They drove across to Rose and Ferguson's stable (Rose shot -himself later) and then down Commercial street and Los Angeles street -to a hotel with a man (I-- F) they picked up at the stables. One of -the first two men was passing as the hack stopped and made a grab for -the girl, who got out first, because as the man put his foot on the -hack step to get out, she shot him in the eye and he fell forward -onto the sidewalk dead. She only said: "He'll never fool another girl" -and was going to shoot again but changed her mind and walked off with -her sister to the police station to give herself up. She was tried; -she was impudent and said she would shoot anyone that said anything -about her. Some fellows took her bouquets; she got no punishment, of -course, and the day she was free went to get the revolver which she -had borrowed she said. B's daughter shot at a man on Spring street -near First three times front of where the P. O. used to be, but only -shot a bit off the top of his head. He ought to have been killed; his -folks had money though and he was let off. I was summoned as a witness -in this. The father knew me but I knew nothing of the affair. I got -mad in court as usual and Mr. S. W. let me go. There used to be a good -deal of shooting in Los Angeles but it is all changed now. At the same -corner of Commercial Street a man sat at an upstairs window and waited -till the man he wanted went along the other side; then he shot him -with a shot gun. - -[Illustration: The End of Don J-- F. Front of White House, Commercial -St., Los Angeles.] - -[Illustration: - -Man coming in suddenly--"Now I've got you." -Man, looking up--"Oh let up, don't interrupt this game." -First man, paralyzed, walks out again without shooting. -The Good Old Days.] - -M and I used to go down Sonora town to Spanish fandangos and things -where there was often trouble. Once they were shooting in the night -around the adobes and a policeman fell down and was carried home but -when they searched they found the ball in his clothes and he was not -hurt a bit. - -I was shot in the Pico house and S-- drove me to his funeral, next -week I was at S's funeral; he was shot in his room. - -[Illustration: One Adobe--Los Angeles.] - -[Illustration: "Empty is the Cradle, Baby's Gone"--San Rafael Ranch.] - - - - -THIEVES. - - -Staying in a house full of things for friends who were away once there -was a burglary. I never knew till a day or two after. Well, the things -were mostly recovered; it was an old servant and his partner who did -it. When we looked around there was an outside adobe store room that -would not open and a locksmith said that the door was not locked. -After some gymnastics we found through an extremely dusty window that -there was something against the door. The crafty George had jammed a -crowbar into the floor and leaned it against the door so that when -shut the other end of the bar dropped under a crosspiece and held the -door like a rock. Wonder where he learned that. - -[Illustration: California--Voices of the Night.] - -[Illustration: Pincher--All That Could be Seen, or Heard.] - -One night, being away from a ranch some one went into my bedroom and -took the cash box (only $225 and $50 was mine and $15 A. C. J's). -There were two men playing chess in the next room who never went to -see what was going on though all the dogs were wild the men say, and -the men's quarters are some distance away. We found the broken box on -the tennis court, house table, all the money, but $19 church money in -an envelope, gone of course. Never knew who did it. Another time, at a -little ranch I had five miles from town, I used to walk out sometimes -at night. Some one broke in one night as I found the door open but -nothing gone. So next Sunday I left everything just the same and came -out after dark but earlier and lay down with my gun just opposite the -door, at twelve whoever it was came (there was no house near) and I -lay trying to hear what they said but could not. They came to the door -and then that little fiend Pincher (my fox terrier) turned up from -some where and "raised Cain"; they left and I followed a little way; -it was a black night; struck one that searching for gentlemen one had -not been introduced to, able to see nothing ahead and with the light -from the open door in one's rear, was not correct; so I went to bed. -Next morning found where they had tied their horses in the willows -down by the creek. Mexicans from the mountains probably. Have not -had many robbery games. Father went down once long ago with a sawed -off shotgun and I went to open the door. I asked him after "what he -thought about?" and he said that he thought he should spoil a new -carpet. - -Another time still further back, when so small that I was sleeping in -his room, I woke him to see the shadow of a ladder on the blind in -London. There were burglars, but in the next house. He caught one and -let him go and the grateful ruffian sent him a paper of written rules -as to how to make his house safe. - -[Illustration: "Marshals Them the Way That They Should Go?"] - -[Illustration: "Oh Lie Down P.---- It's All Right."] - - - - -BRIEF AUTHORITY. - - -Once upon a time a man, call him P.o1, was Marshal at a big picnic -and cavorted around in a gorgeous scarf, riding an ancient but fiery -untamed Mexican bronco, blanco I mean, which had lots of action, -particularly forward. This man had been yarning with another, call him -P.o2, who had also been in the golden South Americas and who, being -in that frivolous state of mind, often found in travelers, insisted -on climbing up behind P.o1 whenever he got a chance, and inciting the -blanco till the action became worse than ever, and the three nearly -got seasick. They did not though, but feasted sumptiously on part of -a whole bullock barbecued, which was so good that they wished they -had known him when alive; might have been better men. Picnic was a -success but P.o2 was not satisfied with one day, and carried on till -a couple of weeks later P.o1 got a message to come to the St. C. -hotel. P.o2 had got D.T.'s and was amusing himself trying to get out -of a three-story window. The St. C. people sent for P.o1 who took the -maniac away and kept him in his bedroom for four abandoned nights. -P.o2 was big and wiry and strong withal, and in the lengua del pais -it was "no circus". P.o2 got better and two years after P.o1 had a -telegram from him saying their ship went down in the Atlantic and took -his twenty thousand draft with her, and he was busted. Now he is in -England with a title and estate and P.o1 has neither, and this is the -reward of virtue--but P.o1 was a Marshal once--and - - "The world goes up, and the world goes down, - And the sunshine follows the rain; - And yesterday's sneer and yesterday's frown - never come over again." - - - - - "La vie est vaine: - Un peu d'amour, - Un peu de haine ... - Et puis--bon-jour! - - La vie est brève: - Un peu d'espoir, - Un peu de rève ... - Et puis--bonsoir." ... - - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber's Notes - -Repositioned illustrations and silently corrected minor punctuation -errors. Retained original spelling except for the following changes: - -Page 21: Tencriffe may be a typo for Teneriffe (now Tenerife). - (Orig: Eleven days in the Bay of Biscay off Tencriffe.) - -Page 27: Changed "quanaco" to "guanaco." - (Orig: everything is mixed up with the quanaco in the dark) - -Page 61: Changed "villians" to "villains." - (Orig: They were very free and easy villians) - -Page 90: Changed "prettyly" to "prettily." - (Orig: very prettyly built to harmonize with the scenery.) - -Page 93: Changed "shruberry" to "shrubbery." - (Orig: all garden and shruberry to a creek) - -Page 105: Changed "mim" to "him." - (Orig: yarning with another, call mim P.o2,) - -Page 106: English Translation: - "Life is in vain: - A little love, - A little bit of hatred ... - And then--good-day! - - Life is short: - A little hope, - A little dream ... - And then goodnight." ... - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Tramp's Scraps, by H. I. M. 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I. M. Self - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: A Tramp's Scraps - -Author: H. I. M. Self - -Release Date: November 27, 2015 [EBook #50558] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TRAMP'S SCRAPS *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Diane Monico, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - - - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 549px;"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="549" height="800" alt="cover" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 319px;"> -<img src="images/i_title.jpg" width="319" height="600" alt="title page" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h1>A Tramp's Scraps</h1> - -<p class="ph2"><i>By H. I. M. Self</i></p> - -<p class="ph3"><i>To</i></p> - -<p class="ph2"><i>Anybody</i></p> - -<p class="ph2"><i>Anywhere</i></p> - -<p class="ph2"><i>Anytime</i></p> - - -<p class="ph4"> -C. C. Parker<br /> -220 S. Broadway, Los Angeles, California<br /> -1913<br /> -</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a id="Table_of_Contents">Table of Contents</a></h2> - - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="toc"> -<tr><th align="right" colspan="2">Page</th></tr> -<tr><td align="left">?</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Fire</td><td align="right"><a href="#FIRE">9</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">The Ghost</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">In a Houseboat</td><td align="right"><a href="#IN_A_HOUSEBOAT">13</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Animals</td><td align="right"><a href="#ANIMALS">15</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Humatiaá</td><td align="right"><a href="#HUMATIAA">17</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">At Sea</td><td align="right"><a href="#AT_SEA">21</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Quarrel</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">The Witching Hour</td><td align="right"><a href="#THE_WITCHING_HOUR">27</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Perrochino</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Smallpox</td><td align="right"><a href="#SMALLPOX">29</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">"May Good Digestion"</td><td align="right"><a href="#MAY_GOOD_DIGESTION_WAIT_ON_APPETITE">31</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Bug-hunting</td><td align="right"><a href="#BUG_HUNTING">33</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Evelina</td><td align="right"><a href="#EVELINA">35</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Shooting in Illinois</td><td align="right"><a href="#SHOOTING_IN_ILLINOIS">39</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">After Ostrich</td><td align="right"><a href="#AFTER_OSTRICHES">41</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Whitlow</td><td align="right"><a href="#A_WHITLOW">43</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Buchaton</td><td align="right"><a href="#BUCHATON">45</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Fever</td><td align="right"><a href="#FEVER">47</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">"To Sleep, to Sleep"</td><td align="right"><a href="#TO_SLEEP_TO_SLEEP">49</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">"Half the World, Etc."</td><td align="right"><a href="#HALF_THE_WORLD_DONT_KNOW_HOW_THE_OTHER_HALF_LIVES_OR_DIES">51</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Hard Times</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">"There was a Ship Quoth He."</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Health and Appetite</td><td align="right"><a href="#HEALTH_AND_APPETITE">59</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">The Knuckle-duster</td><td align="right"><a href="#KNUCKLE-DUSTING">59</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Wanderers</td><td align="right"><a href="#WANDERERS">61</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">"The Weary Ploughboy"</td><td align="right"><a href="#THE_WEARY_PLOUGHBOY">63</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Another Quarrel</td><td align="right"><a href="#A_QUARREL_CANDELARIA">63</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Another Fire</td><td align="right"><a href="#FIRE_AGAIN">65</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Two Falls and a Cow</td><td align="right"><a href="#TWO_FALLS_AND_A_COW">69</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Real Ghosts</td><td align="right"><a href="#REAL_GHOSTS">71</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">On the San Rafael Ranch</td><td align="right"><a href="#ON_THE_SAN_RAFAEL_RANCH">73</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Express Charges</td><td align="right"><a href="#EXPRESS_CHARGES">77</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Cotton Packing</td><td align="right"><a href="#COTTON_PACKING">81</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Man Overboard</td><td align="right"><a href="#MAN_OVERBOARD">85</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">"The Old Oaken Bucket"</td><td align="right"><a href="#THE_OLD_OAKEN_BUCKET">87</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Dog Story</td><td align="right"><a href="#A_DOGS_TALE">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Arden</td><td align="right"><a href="#ARDEN">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Horses</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Sudden Death, Etc.</td><td align="right"><a href="#SUDDEN_DEATH">97</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Game at Billiards</td><td align="right"><a href="#The_Good_Old_Days">98</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Thieves</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Brief Authority</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_105">105</a></td></tr> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/i_006.jpg" width="400" height="426" alt="A and B in bar" /> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> -<h2><a name="questionmark" id="questionmark">?</a></h2> - - -<p>A, an Argentino, comes in to a pulperia and talks loudly to another -native. B objects, laying his hand on A's arm, and asks him to make -less noise.</p> - -<p>A steps back, putting his hand on his knife, and B throws him out of -doors and shuts the door.</p> - -<p>Later A returns and he and B sit down to talk it over. A says that he -is an Estanciero, with thirty thousand head of live stock and would -have treated B well if he had come to his place; why had B thrown him -out?</p> - -<p>B said: "Too much noise and knife."</p> - -<p>B had put on an ulster and had a Derringer in his hand in his pocket; -a man had told him that A was coming back to kill him.</p> - -<p>For two hours or so they sat, A talking a little and then jumping up -in front of B, his knife wandering up and down B who sat perfectly -still watching as if it was a show. Then A would sit again and jump -up again and so on. They use a knife here as an Englishman would his -hand and are so quick that the pistol would never have saved B, though -he might have killed A, killing is not much thought of and this man -was wild to do it. Why did he not? Was it Providence? Or was it that A -being a brave man,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> -he could not kill a thing that made no resistance.</p> -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_008a.jpg" width="600" height="432" alt="Buena Noche Toreador" /> -<div class="caption">Buena Noche Toreador.</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_008b.jpg" width="500" height="504" alt="Digging Ye First Corral Ditch." /> -<div class="caption">Digging Ye First Corral Ditch.</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> -<p>Later it turned out that A was on some government work and had -seventeen soldiers camped outside; they had stayed at an Estancia the -night before where he had lost money at monte probably, probably had a -"wet" night.</p> - -<p>He was not in an amiable frame of mind. When he went to bed, he asked -B if he would come and kill him as he slept; also if B would lock up -his papers and things.</p> - -<p>B told him to go to bed; that (B) was English. But why is B alive? and -perhaps A?</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="FIRE" id="FIRE">FIRE!</a></h2> - - -<p>Five small wooden huts originally brought from England and later -hauled forty miles or more across a camp on bullock-wagons to start -a new colony next to Indian territory. Each hut is about eight feet -square and they are a foot apart with the high grass cut off around -about in case of prairie fires. Three men from one end hut have -gone shooting deer or emus or whatever turns up, leaving a heap of -powder-flasks, guns, saddles, and clothes in one corner of their -shanty;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> blankets, etc., hanging out of the lower bunk, half-cover -and open box on the floor with eight pounds of loose powder in it. -The next hut is empty except when the owner comes to lie down, gasp, -and perspire. It is so hot that you can break a piece of grass, and -he is digging, with scarcely any clothes on, the first big corral -ditch. Once as he lies half stupidly, listening lazily to a crackling, -thinking that if he had sense enough he would wonder what it could -be. Then he gets up to see. Fire had started in some way in the heap -of clothes and was running up the thin boards to the roof. There is -not much room but there is a fork with which he begins to shovel out -the burning heap, and yell for water, which his brother, asleep in a -further hut, brings when he realizes what is wanted. This water was -thrown into the box of powder, but all this time the sparks have been -falling into it and the man wants to know why everything was not blown -to kingdom come before that water came.</p> -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_010.jpg" width="500" height="463" alt="A Prairie Fire." /> -<div class="caption">A "Prairie" Fire.</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>When the shooters got home there were remarks. Reminded me of the -story of two roughs in London who were talking over an article in a -paper about the improvement of the lower classes which one read to -the other, who remarked: "Yes, we're a bad lot, Bill, but we 'as our -fun. The other day there was a bloody fire and the bloody fire engine -come down the bloody street to the bloody 'ouse an' there was a bloody -ole fool standin' at the top winder, an' I says, jump, ye bloody fool -and me an' my mate Bill'll ketch yer in our blanket, an' the bloody -fool 'e jumps an' e' breaks 'is bloody neck—we 'adn't got no bloody -blanket."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p> -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_012a.jpg" width="600" height="278" alt="And Said as Plain as Whisper in the Ear, the Place is -Haunted." /> -<div class="caption">"And Said as Plain as Whisper in the Ear, the Place is -Haunted."</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_012b.jpg" width="600" height="402" alt="Sampans on the Yellow River." /> -<div class="caption">Sampans on the Yellow River.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p> -<h2><a name="THE_GHOST" id="THE_GHOST">THE GHOST.</a></h2> - - -<p>A lonely little old hut on the bank of a river in Illinois said to -be haunted. Man went and slept there part of a night, cold, woke up -covered with snow that had drifted in through holes in the roof. Went -home, no ghost. Shooting duck on the way back got stuck in a slough. -Another man turned up and took one end of the gun. Man in the mud's -legs stayed on and he came out. If anyone don't believe this he has -the legs still. Don't go after ghosts though; you may find one.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="IN_A_HOUSEBOAT" id="IN_A_HOUSEBOAT">IN A HOUSEBOAT.</a></h2> - - -<p>On the Yangtze River, houseboats have a cabin with bunks, table, and -a mast, that should go up and down so that you can get under bridges -made of long blocks of stone; they also have a huge sail made of -matting. You put your cook, coolies, and provisions aboard, get your -passport, and are off through merchant ships, junks, men-of-war, -sampans, etc., up the river, and through the pass where they saw the -fire from Shanghai and got up in time to save the captain of a craft -where the men had been tied to the masts<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> and the ships set on fire -by pirates. Sometimes the coolies pull you with a rope; sometimes -push you with poles; sometimes you sail. When you please you land and -shoot pheasants scared out of Chinese graves (big and little mounds -covered with reeds etc.) by bones thrown in, plenty of bones, remains -of bamboo stockades used in the Taeping rebellion still standing. -There are duck, plover, and snipe; and now and then you pass through a -Chinese village. Natives stare and big dogs get excited. It is as well -to keep a watch, at night particularly when near any soldier junks, as -we were at Foochow.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_014a.jpg" width="600" height="436" alt="On the Yangtze Kiang." /> -<div class="caption">On the Yangtze Kiang.</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_014b.jpg" width="600" height="439" alt="A Pulperia." /> -<div class="caption">A Pulperia.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="ANIMALS" id="ANIMALS">ANIMALS.</a></h2> - - -<p>A pulperia with the usual crowd evenings, Spanish Mayor domo excited -because he says a big Argentino (a stranger in with a tropa of -prairie schooners from Mendoza) drew a knife on his compradre, the -Italian proprietor. Writer was close but saw no knife. Spaniard being -a man in authority has always a lot of human jackals ready to take -his part; he is not any good himself. Argentino run out of pulperia -and beaten, etc., till insensible. Englishman comes up and finding -another Spaniard (said to have been a brigand formerly) burning the -Argentino's fingers with a match,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> saying that he is shamming, abuses -everybody; stooping over the Argentino, finding his heart is still -beating; slips his hand under him and takes his knife (a poor little -one which he pockets); asks if the crowd think they've done enough? -They go back to the pulperia, Englishman also, but he returns in five -minutes and finds the man has come to and is staggering about. He -lies down when found. Crowd turn up again, but hearing that the first -who meddles will be shot, keep quiet till at last the juez de paz -(Argentino) turns up and takes charge of man. Tried in Rosario later, -he says that the Englishman, who is not called as a witness saved his -life, dare say he was right; men are brutes sometimes.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_016a.jpg" width="600" height="420" alt="A Row." /> -<div class="caption">A Row.</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_016b.jpg" width="600" height="375" alt="What's Left of San Carlos Cathedral—Humatiaá, -Paraguay." /> -<div class="caption">What's Left of San Carlos Cathedral—Humatiaá, -Paraguay.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="HUMATIAA" id="HUMATIAA">HUMATIAÁ.</a></h2> - - -<p>In a little Paraguayan village where there is no hotel we find a -shanty with a table on which are cold meat and pickles mostly; eat -when you like, sleep when and where you can, and pay is exorbitant. -Two of us slept on a table. We are here after jaguars. One found -a hammock said to belong to the cook—don't know what became of -him—this was slung over the table, all in the same room which opened -on the main street. The old town was smashed in the last fight which -was a plucky one and where the fellows left alive<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> got out of the -town by tying dead soldiers to posts by dummy guns, leaving them on -guard till the other fellows found out. There is nothing left of it -but the ruins of a cathedral (San Carlos), high bare walls with great -timbers sticking out into the sky and holes made by cannon. One of -us tried to sketch it, but it was not easy as the population were -interested and shut one up in a circle. The present village is half a -mile away, a street of wooden shanties with big shutters (no glass) -nearer the river. In the houses they played loto with much noise, and -taught green parrots to whistle.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_018.jpg" width="600" height="346" alt="Evening in Humatiaá." /> -<div class="caption">Evening in Humatiaá.</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>In one there were two delightful and rather fiedish little jaguar -cubs, in the street people played bowls and talked to anyone they -wished. We all knew each other directly and did the same. Now and -then, to some belle going out in scarlet dress, gold embroideries, and -huge earrings, her dress up to her knees in front and a long train; -nothing much on her shoulders or her feet and at night people wander -into the room where we are trying to sleep, eat, play cards, sing, -fight, and so on. Sometimes a man on the table goes mad and sits up. -I am in the hammock above so I go mad. It doesn't matter, everyone is -mad with an uncivilized madness here.</p> - -<p>So we get up and eat, the language is guarani, two-thirds Spanish, -one-third Indian and a trifle of Portuguese;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> nice language, with a -click in it like a dissipated watch.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/i_020a.jpg" width="550" height="445" alt="Adios Humatiaá." /> -<div class="caption">Adios Humatiaá.</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_020b.jpg" width="500" height="507" alt="Your Stateroom." /> -<div class="caption">Your Stateroom.</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>There was a baby's funeral among other things. The little body -covered with flowers and surrounded by candles, is carried round on a -board, by a crowd and brass band; they come in, put it on a table or -somewhere. The band plays and the crowd fraternize and drink cana till -tired. Then to another house and this goes on till they are all drunk -and till the baby has to be buried.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="AT_SEA" id="AT_SEA">AT SEA.</a></h2> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"<i>Ye gentlemen of England who stay at home at ease,</i><br /></span> -<span class="i0"><i>How little do ye think upon the dangers of the seas.</i>"<br /></span> -</div></div></div> - - -<p>Eleven days in the Bay of Biscay off Tencriffe. A nasty sea; seems -to come everyway; knocks the ship one side and the other till she -trembles like a live thing. Engines only strong enough to keep us off -shore and we get out twice only to be driven back again. Life lines -out; fiddles on the table; water washing about saloon and cabins; one -lady, in a top berth, with her door swinging open and shut, wants to -know when we are going to be drowned; and "to have her cabin mopped -out." Another, who has been so ill ever since we left that she is -expected to die and who the captain wants to put ashore but can't -get there, has a husband looking after her. He becomes ill and she -suddenly gets well and stays so! What kind of a cure is this? The -stove breaks loose, but no fire; too much water. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>Rather an unlucky -ship; crank and cargo badly stowed, overmasted and undermanned; once -a fort'gallant yard came down endways through forecastle deck, lead -water tank, etc., made the splinters fly. Once a marine spike came -from aloft and stuck in the deck close to yours truly. Fog around St. -Paul's island. We took reckoning for three days but did not know where -we were. Expected to make the voyage in seventy-five days; took nearly -four months and when we did anchor ship ahead on fire broke loose and -drifted down on us, "those that go down to the sea in ships". One -night she was rolling horribly; people holding onto saloon rails, -steward came along top side rail and broke a man's hold, man flew -across and avoided crushing a girl in a red garibaldi, red hair, and -a pink ribbon (he should have crushed her) by spreading his arms and -feet as he brought up against the wall. Another steward stooped for a -turkey which was doing something in a big silver dish on the floor. -He loosed the rail as the ship rolled. Away went turkey and man, -getting to the other side. Man's head went whack. By the time he got -his wits, the ship had rolled again and the turkey was half way back. -Comforted oneself, remembering the man who when the ship was going -down, reflected that he had paid £12 to go to New York, and they "had -to take him there."</p> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 431px;"> -<img src="images/i_022.jpg" width="431" height="600" alt="Down in the Saloon Boys—Bay of Biscay Oh!" /> -<div class="caption">"Down in the Saloon Boys"—"Bay of Biscay Oh!"</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span></p> -<h2><a name="A_QUARREL_IN_CAMP" id="A_QUARREL_IN_CAMP">A QUARREL IN CAMP.</a></h2> - - -<p>Sunday afternoons here in camp there are horse races, bone game, -monte, drinking, etc. At the pulperias, at a race today, two brothers -quarrelled. One stands, knife in hand, talking to friends; the other -twenty feet away, is held back by men all around him, who getting -tired of persuasion begin to hammer him with their short whip stocks -made of wood or iron covered with hide or silver, with a long flat -rawhide thong. These rattle on his head like hail but he seems to feel -nothing and see nothing but his brother till suddenly he drops stunned.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 471px;"> -<img src="images/i_024.jpg" width="471" height="550" alt="Children, You Should Never Let Your Angry Passions -Rise." /> -<div class="caption">"Children, You Should Never Let Your Angry Passions -Rise."</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Fighting here, a man wraps his poncho round the left forearm to catch -the other man's knife, holding his own knife below in the right hand -and watching the antagonist's knife instead of his eye. Sometimes they -face each other a long while but are as quick as cats when they move; -there is not much interference usually. Once a man on horseback rode -in and grasping one of the fighters by his long black hair pushed him -away backwards. Unless it is serious they do not fight to kill so much -as to slash faces; but they don't seem to care for their lives much. -A peon of mine was brought home an awful object. Santa (his woman) -wept and said he was killed but he got well, I asked the other fellows -afterward what they wanted to kill my fellow for and they laughed and -said a man did not matter; pity to kill a woman, as they are scarce; -but Santa could soon have got another man. The last is true enough. -One day a big domador started back to G's house, where we sat on the -porch and could see across<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> the slope; he rode over. He had won money -or his silver harness, or for some other reason three fellows followed -him; he had a good little mare and rode till the one following who -had the best mount was ahead of the others. Then Jose jumped off and -waited, getting his knife (it was mine by the by), and the other man -rode up jumped off and ran at him, Jose made one thrust and jumping -on his mare rode in with his hand and knife all blood. Don't know who -the other man was but this time soldiers came after Jose who hid for -three weeks in the maize; his woman took him food. Then he appeared -again with three small black cats which he had found in the corn and -of which made pets.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 457px;"> -<img src="images/i_026.jpg" width="457" height="550" alt="The Guanaco Episode." /> -<div class="caption">The Guanaco Episode.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="THE_WITCHING_HOUR" id="THE_WITCHING_HOUR">THE WITCHING HOUR.</a></h2> - - -<p>Night in a little house on the pampas edge we got some girls together -and had a dance. The natives have gone home and men are sleeping all -over the floor and on the table over which is a sack of hard biscuits, -etc., slung to the rafters. Through the darkness and open door enters -one of two tame guanacos (something like small fawn-colored camels), -steps on a man who wakes with a shriek. One man on the table wakes -up, tries to sit up in a hurry, and the bag of biscuits meets him and -knocks him flat. Over goes the table and other man and everyone and -everything is mixed up with the guanaco in the dark till the brute -fights his way out of the house. Someone gets a light and saves the -pieces.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 512px;"> -<img src="images/i_028a.jpg" width="512" height="550" alt="Perrochino Trapped." /> -<div class="caption">Perrochino Trapped.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_028b.jpg" width="600" height="301" alt="Fetching the Priest." /> -<div class="caption">Fetching the Priest.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p> -<h2><a name="PERROCHINO" id="PERROCHINO">PERROCHINO.</a></h2> - - -<p>Woman calling for help at the end of hallway. Man wanders over to see -what is wrong. At the other end of the hall is a door and a crowd. -Wanderer jumps in and helps to hold the door, asking next man what is -going on. Perrochino, the strongest Italian in the colony, has got -into trouble and is jammed in the doorway, unable to do anything, -while one Spaniard beats his head with a chairleg. Head looks ugly and -the man is raging. Wanderer gets the door open a bit and Perrochino -slips out, his brother, who sees him from a distance, discreetly -slipping down a side street. Later lightning strikes a wheat stack and -most of the men go off with a tarpaulin to draw over and smother the -fire. Wanderer left to sit on the steps with a gun in case the Italian -should return to the Señora and niñito. He does not.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="SMALLPOX" id="SMALLPOX">SMALLPOX.</a></h2> - - -<p>Smallpox came our way; seemed to take a piece about a quarter of a -mile wide. Many died. Woman very ill and man went for Priest. Rainy -and windy night and the little lamp the man carried in front of the -Priest, who was saying prayers, kept blowing out and having to be lit -again. The atmosphere of the room was awful for the Priest. Antonia -and two men. Antonia was confessed and died. The others cleared and -next day the man got a Spanish carpenter (Tapia) and boards and -sixteen old kerosene cans<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> from the store and they made a coffin and -lined it with the kerosene cans and put Antonia in; her feet were -tied with a ribbon and the smallpox lumps showed through her white -stockings. Some friends came at night and in the morning we soldered -her up and had the funeral. Two wheels and the coffin on boards -covered with a cloth, a cross with her name, etc., painted on it as -well as one could; all the mourners on horseback. We buried her. Hers -was the first death here. Her sister, who came to see her, was well -for two weeks; then she died in twenty minutes; she only had one mark -on her.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_030a.jpg" width="600" height="300" alt="Antonia's Funeral." /> -<div class="caption">Antonia's Funeral.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/i_030b.jpg" width="550" height="430" alt="Near Corientes." /> -<div class="caption">Near Corientes.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="MAY_GOOD_DIGESTION_WAIT_ON_APPETITE" id="MAY_GOOD_DIGESTION_WAIT_ON_APPETITE">"MAY GOOD DIGESTION WAIT ON APPETITE."</a></h2> - - -<p>We had run out of meat and were living on a few hard biscuits and -oranges for two days in our boat on a big river in South America; but -today we ran up a creek to Corientes and found any quantity at fifty -cents the aroba (25 pounds); so we took some to the creek mouth and -Maria cooked it while we sat round with our hunting knives. Don't use -plates and things; when cooked you cut a piece off, lay hold with -your mouth and cut off your mouthful avoiding your nose. Cooking is -done by sticking an iron rod (if you have one) through the meat into -the ground slanting over the fire, turning it when one side is done. -Then we sailed off again and came to Parana after a while. There is -a revolution on (Blancos and Colorados) and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> the town population is -picknicking with bedding, etc., on an island in the river. In the town -men are on the flat roofs shooting at others scurring about in the -bush shooting back; also maniacs are riding about like drunken demons -cutting at anything that comes in reach. We got away after a bit and -past batteries on the river bluffs which don't notice us (too small, I -suppose), though we pass close to the tops of the funnels of a steamer -that they just sank.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 384px;"> -<img src="images/i_032.jpg" width="384" height="600" alt="Cold Water Cure—Java." /> -<div class="caption">Cold Water Cure—Java.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="BUG_HUNTING" id="BUG_HUNTING">BUG HUNTING.</a></h2> - - -<p>In Java you are (or were) only allowed to drive around the island. You -get a permit, from the Dutch, but are not to go into the interior far -from the landing place where there is the biggest banyan tree in the -world, it is said; a village could be put away in the arches. There -are also numbers of fighting cocks, a very fine cocoanut grove; and -lots of other fruits, bananas, plantains, etc. The ship doctor, who -was a collector of insects, and I got away seven miles or so over -small hills and through forest meeting only a few blacks and other -insects till we came to the Upas tree valley (the poison from these -trees was mostly used for arrows). It is said that anyone sleeping -under them dies, and it may be true—I don't know how soon death will -take place though. We did not sleep there. There are bones but other -animal's bones perhaps. They say that those that gathered the poison<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> -soon died. Trees look like a palm. The doctor got some beetles and we -came back and eat bananas and things till time to return to the ship -with some little bullocks and vegetables. Our coxwain (quarter-master) -had been in the navy, and, with them I believe he stays by the boat -till all the others are away. Our ship is P. and O. and our cox was -standing at the foot of the gangway holding a stanchion and steadying -the boat with his foot. Captain looked over the side and called him. -Cox (who had had a drink ashore no doubt) did not move, captain spoke -to mate who ran down two or three steps and jumped landing on cox's -chest. Both went into the sea with a crash. Boat picked them up and -cox was put in irons. They spatch-cock chicken very well in Java.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_034a.jpg" width="500" height="422" alt="In Irons." /> -<div class="caption">In Irons.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_034b.jpg" width="600" height="240" alt="A Tormento." /> -<div class="caption">A Tormento.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="EVELINA" id="EVELINA">EVELINA.</a></h2> - - -<p>A tormento generally begins with dust; then wind, then rain; the two -last fight furiously till the rain comes down solid, with now and -then blasts of wind through it. One usually sees them coming and -shuts everything that will shut. Huts are sent flying sometimes. I've -seen the roof of a house taken off, and a man get to a house on his -hands and knees. Oh, yes; she blows; and the rain! In one a man, his -peon, and woman, start out to get three favorite horses picketted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> -two hundred yards away. Man tells the woman to go back; but once -outside one can hardly see or hear, though people are close together. -Lightning all around and thunder that seems to shake the ground. There -is a white glare that feels hot and a crash of thunder and the peon -(Pascassio) called "my woman's dead! my woman's dead."</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;"> -<img src="images/i_036.jpg" width="422" height="600" alt="To Die! To Sleep—Perchance to Dream!" /> -<div class="caption">"To Die! To Sleep—Perchance to Dream!"</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Man says: "Is Evelina here?"</p> - -<p>"She's blown into the ditch." But the next minute he steps on her, -picks her up; sounds as if she said something but her head is wrapped -in a poncho, man gets her back to the house and lays her on her bed. -Sends peon, who does not know what he is doing and anyway, they won't -touch anything struck by lightning—to the nearest house where there -is a native woman, cooking.</p> - -<p>Petrona came, and did what was necessary. Evelina was dead when picked -up very heavy to carry. Only one little hole was burned in the poncho -and brown mark as big as one's finger nail on the back of her neck. -They put four candles around her in one corner and left. Man slept -in another corner and kept candles alight for them. They would not -stop and said the devil would come for her and take the man as well. -Man said the devil probably had better places to go to, and they said -he was the wickedest man they ever saw. Came back next afternoon and -spent the night<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> singing, playing cards, praying, and drinking mate. -Two children went to sleep on the floor, man got up, put "kids" in his -bed, and joined the wake. Next day they took Evelina away and left the -man alone again.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_038a.jpg" width="600" height="323" alt="Rats! Musk Rats." /> -<div class="caption">Rats! Musk Rats.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_038b.jpg" width="500" height="426" alt="On the Calumet." /> -<div class="caption">On the Calumet.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="SHOOTING_IN_ILLINOIS" id="SHOOTING_IN_ILLINOIS">SHOOTING IN ILLINOIS.</a></h2> - -<p class="center"> -"<i>The days that are no more.</i>"<br /> -</p> - - -<p>The way you used to catch the wily muskrat years ago on the Calumet -River was to set a tooth trap in the water, in one of his runs in -summer; in winter you could skate or walk to their houses, built -of reeds, three feet high, and dome shaped, and spear them with a -three-foot spear on a pole. The skins, taken off and dried by being -stretched on willow twigs, were worth seventeen cents a piece. -Big ducks sold for two and a half to three dollars a dozen to the -dealers—canvas back, red-heads, etc.—smaller ones, Teal, blue-bills, -widgeon, butter balls, etc., for two dollars.</p> - -<p>There were fellows there making a good living at hunting and trapping, -and some owned farms on the river bank.</p> - -<p>The duck-shooting was the best I have had in any country. Now I -believe there is still some shooting held by clubs. The Pullman place -is where we used to shoot hundreds of birds beyond where the best -shooting house (Chittendens) used to be, where the river forks. Then -you could shoot forty miles up to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> Grand Calumet and there were -lakes and swamps, flight shooting night and morning, and in the day -one could pole through the wild rice; etc., or take a stand now and -then, or land and try the ridges for prairie chicken. There were also -woodcock and snipe. Further away the pineries for deer. Still hunting, -because there were Indians who would shoot dogs; they do spoil still -hunting. You would not see the Indian as the brush was very thick. If -you do see him and shoot at him and miss him, as one of us did, it is -better not to go again. We did, and a bullet came between us and stuck -in a tree. The man I was with did not like Indians and shot at them -when he got a chance.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/i_040a.jpg" width="550" height="409" alt="L— and F. W. Shot With the P. of W. When He Was Here -(in Chicago), Missed His Injin." /> -<div class="caption">L— and F. W. Shot With the P. of W. When He Was Here -(in Chicago), Missed His "Injin".</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_040b.jpg" width="600" height="225" alt="I'm a Simple Little Ostrich, But I Know It All" /> -<div class="caption">"I'm a Simple Little Ostrich, But I Know It All,"</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="AFTER_OSTRICHES" id="AFTER_OSTRICHES">AFTER OSTRICHES.</a></h2> - - -<p>On the South American pampas you ride one horse and lead your fastest -when you are after ostriches. The birds raise their wings and sail -before the wind at an awful pace and if you do not get up to one soon -after he starts you might as well give up. When you get near you -change horses, and, taking your bolas (three balls as big as pigeon -eggs of lead or brass, on a plaited rawhide thong) from around your -middle, begin to swing them around in your right hand keeping your -finger hooked through the fork of the thong, holding one ball in your -hand.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> As you close up, you bring them over your head, letting your -finger loose them to their six foot length. You send your gee along -and, bending forward, loose them at your ostrich. If you hit him, -the bolas tangle him up and down he comes. If there are holes and -things, you come down instead. It is a fast thing and as often as not -or oftener you are bareback. Sometimes fellows make a big circle and -close in on the birds; then you have a lively time, particularly if -you play at being an ostrich yourself.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_042a.jpg" width="600" height="290" alt="Ostriches—On the Look-out." /> -<div class="caption">Ostriches—On the Look-out.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_042b.jpg" width="500" height="509" alt="Somerset and Yo." /> -<div class="caption">Somerset and Yo.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_042c.jpg" width="500" height="533" alt="Whitlow, From Tree Pruning. South America." /> -<div class="caption">Whitlow, From Tree Pruning. South America.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 459px;"> -<img src="images/i_042d.jpg" width="459" height="450" alt="Men off H. M. Rattler" /> -<div class="caption">Men off H. M. "Rattler".</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="A_WHITLOW" id="A_WHITLOW">A WHITLOW.</a></h2> - - -<p>Pain! oh yes! Fourteen days in and out of bed alone in a shanty, -forty miles from town. Whitlow they call it; an Indian woman advised -a piece of willow burned and the powder mixed with the yolk of an egg -in the shell; no good. Animals to feed, water to draw, etc., when -one is so scared of one's own finger that one breaks a demijohn up -and cuts a hole in the wicker cover in which to slip one's hand in -bed. Not much to eat and one gets weaker, but has sense enough not to -stay too long in a room with a gun. Got the old horse (Somerset) and -saddle on someway and to town. Lot of English sailors off a gunboat -in the hotel, dancing and singing. Two are interested and want to -know if man will come aboard because they "have a sawbones who will -take it off with a handsaw." Well, surgeon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> cuts the finger up both -sides and later the other two sides; couldn't tell what it was; never -be a success again. One can see what it was meant for. Another time -diphtheria. Doctor came one hundred and thirty miles and found man -with his head in a blanket on the table, no brush and made one out of -prairie wolf hair; did his throat like cleaning a gun; man got well.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_044a.jpg" width="600" height="399" alt="Diphtheria at Pera." /> -<div class="caption">Diphtheria at Pera.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_044b.jpg" width="500" height="485" alt="Buchaton's Death in la Candelaria." /> -<div class="caption">Buchaton's Death in la Candelaria.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="BUCHATON" id="BUCHATON">BUCHATON.</a></h2> - - -<p>Three houses now in this colony, joining Indian Territory. Mine was -first; then a Frenchman came and used my well and corral, etc., till -he got settled half a mile away; and another is being put up for a -store. One foggy night, or morning rather (1 A. M.), some one woke me, -rapping on the door. As I was alone and one did not expect people, or -open the door after dark without knowing what is on the other side, I -asked and a woman's voice answered; opened and there was Buchaton's -wife with two small children. They had found the house luckily after -two hours in the fog. Her man had been doing something with the stove -and had words with an Argentino and friend. The Argentino started -for him with his knife but the wife got it and threw it away (man -was a little drunk). He picked it up again and killed the Frenchman; -then they tied him up with a lasso (the woman had run out<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> with the -children), got their horses, and left. Some of us got horses and went -to the house but the man was dead; there was a trail in the wet grass -in the moonlight but we never caught them as they changed horses and -got over the line into another state.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_046a.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="Acclimatizing Fever—Shanghai." /> -<div class="caption">Acclimatizing Fever—Shanghai.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_046b.jpg" width="600" height="309" alt="Oil Springs Typhoid—Canada." /> -<div class="caption">Oil Springs Typhoid—Canada.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="FEVER" id="FEVER">FEVER.</a></h2> - - -<p>In China and some other places one has a fever getting acclimated. -One in Shanghai left man pretty weak when the usual plague of boils -broke out. Then there was less rest for the wicked than ever, and he -balanced himself on a boil and thought about Job. The doctor says that -the man is better and that this is a crisis he wanted (man wishes -doctor had it). But man does get well after many dawns, watching the -bats come home to roost in the round tiles used in the roofs here. -Then cats come along the edge and reaching paws over extract the bats -and put them away and go after more. The man thinks he's glad he's not -a bat and goes to sleep and wakes up better and forgets about it till -some day years after he dreams dreams.</p> - -<p>Talking of fevers, when the oil wells started in Canada it was rather -rough living. The water to drink very bad, and so on. At all events -we got a bad mixture of typhoid and smallpox and not much doctor. So -a great many died. One of us had it and another nursed him till he -got to his bed and forgot everything except sticking a favorite pin -in a rafter overhead.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> The other was better and had sent a line to -friends a hundred miles away; they came, and the two men were put on -their mattresses on the bottom of a wagon and so over eighteen miles -of corduroy road (which is trees laid alongside one another) and -into the baggage car of a railroad train. The war was going on and -sympathetic passengers came in: "Oh, poor fellows! where were they -wounded?" Our friends said: "not wounded at all; typhoid," and the car -was empty. Took us nine weeks to get around. H. McC. carried one along -the railway platform and if you have ever been carried through a lot -of people when you have sense enough to know that you are grown up and -want to hit some one if you had the strength, you know what one felt -like—Wonder who got that pin!</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_048a.jpg" width="600" height="416" alt="Baggage." /> -<div class="caption">Baggage.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/i_048b.jpg" width="550" height="424" alt="A Night on the Grimsel Pass—Switzerland" /> -<div class="caption">A Night on the "Grimsel" Pass—Switzerland</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="TO_SLEEP_TO_SLEEP" id="TO_SLEEP_TO_SLEEP">TO SLEEP, TO SLEEP.</a></h2> - - -<p>We did not know this morning if we would stay the night and went out -for a walk. While away twenty-seven geological students arrived and -took everything and more in the shape of beds; so here we are in a big -attic of a little house on top of the Grinsel Pass in Switzerland. The -room is the cheese room surrounded by shelves on which immense gruyere -cheeses are drying—all kinds of makeshift beds on the floor and for -washing little basins and wine bottles on a bench; lovely! Went to bed -midnight and as we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> leave at 4 a.m. and the interval is filled up by -a number of peasants yodeling—below why "Happy, happy, happy be thy -dreams."</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_050a.jpg" width="600" height="266" alt="Death." /> -<div class="caption">Death.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_050b.jpg" width="600" height="395" alt="Katrina." /> -<div class="caption">Katrina.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="HALF_THE_WORLD_DONT_KNOW_HOW_THE_OTHER_HALF_LIVES_OR_DIES" id="HALF_THE_WORLD_DONT_KNOW_HOW_THE_OTHER_HALF_LIVES_OR_DIES">HALF THE WORLD DON'T KNOW HOW THE OTHER HALF LIVES OR DIES.</a></h2> - - -<p>A small hut made of reeds, lost in an immense swamp—the home of a -girl and an old gaucho. Man gone; don't know when or where, leaving -the girl stripped and tied with a piece of a lasso to a post in the -hut, stabbed and dead. She was quite young and rather pretty—poor -thing.</p> - -<p>At another place found the German girl who cooked for the S——s, -stripped and tied down in the prairie just outside the village. Three -natives (horseback of course) caught her and carried her off and -staceared her. (I don't know how they spell it but that is what it's -called in Spanish) means pegging your hands and feet with rawhide to -the ground. Under her was a knife; suppose they meant to kill her but -got scared away. She died; had been there all night.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/i_052a.jpg" width="400" height="256" alt="building diagram" /> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/i_052b.jpg" width="550" height="449" alt="British Benevolent Society—2 A. M." /> -<div class="caption">British Benevolent Society—2 A. M.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p> -<h2><a name="HARD_TIMES_AGAIN" id="HARD_TIMES_AGAIN">HARD TIMES—AGAIN.</a></h2> - - -<p>A man (in California) lying in bed dying; wife ill in bed in the next -room watching him through the open door; third and last room divided -by sheets into two, one-half with stove in it, the other used by -anyone including seven children all under nine years old. No money. -The man died; money was collected and he was buried; and family sent -back to Europe. S. P. railway made a reduction on fares; train was to -leave at 10 p.m., telegram to say it would be 11 p.m.</p> - -<p>The woman, children, and man waited till eleven when another message -came to say the cars would not be in till 2 a.m. So they went over -to the hotel and got a sleep till a quarter to two when the man woke -them up and the procession trailed back and got aboard. Trainman -interested: "Where's she goin'?" "Europe," said the man.</p> - -<p>"With all them kids! Never get there alive."</p> - -<p>She did though; man nearly went also as he was inside the car putting -a big roll of mattresses through the door and they jammed, cars were -moving and man crawled over the top of the bundle and slid onto -the platform and off the car saying to an astonished conductor who -appeared from somewhere, "you get those mattresses in old man."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 404px;"> -<img src="images/i_054.jpg" width="404" height="500" alt="The Cisne at the Old Wharf Rosario—Santa Fé." /> -<div class="caption">The "Cisne" at the Old Wharf Rosario—Santa Fé.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p> -<h2><a name="THERE_WAS_A_SHIP_QUOTH_HE" id="THERE_WAS_A_SHIP_QUOTH_HE">"THERE WAS A SHIP QUOTH HE."</a></h2> - - -<p>Coming down the Plata River in the "Cisne" steamer a fellow passenger -asked us to help him when we landed. We said we would. Well, it was -very dark and raining; we landed under a wharf, arrangement on the -other side of which was a ten-foot steep and slippery mud-bank on -top of which were one or two wheel carts made with a pole with a -hole in the far end. The carter slips a rawhide fast to his horse's -cinch, through the pole hole and makes fast, he (riding the horse) -can then pull, or if he wants to back, ride his horse around the pole -and push backwards. To return to our mutton, what our man wanted was -help to land a portmanteau and some heavy small boxes and we got them -into a cart after a weary time sliding up and down that mud bank and -much indifferent language. One native rode and two friends kept him -company. We had to go two miles over a wicked road. The tall grass -grows right up to it on both sides and there have been a lot of -unpleasant things happening; so we had our guns in our hands. We had -found out that our friend from Paraguay, one of his prisoners Lopez -left alive, had been trading and the boxes, etc., were full of gold, -and silver dollars. Got to the hotel all right and had a drink. There -was a funny little old man with hair over his shoulders and white -beard to his middle and very old clothes. He looked lonely<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> so we -asked him to drink. No, he did not drink. Smoke? No; he did not smoke -but he put a cigar in his pocket. Felt curious about him and asked -him and the capitalist to my room, also, drink and cigars. They came -and oh, yes! I had struck it rich. The little man was I think doing -penance. He would not say why he had tramped hundreds of leagues -through the wildest parts of the country with some polenta to eat -and no arms except a small pocket knife, or why he had not cut hair -or beard for seven years; but the stories those men told each other, -myself sitting listening till 4 a.m. with hardly a word; and they -could have gone on for weeks. I said that queer things happened on the -road we came here by, in the grass that borders the road back a little -way are adobe huts and very queer people live there. Everyone carries -a knife of course but the police had a very bad character for a time. -At another men riding were lassoed from the grass and you are gone -if a lasso gets you. At another the natives did not like it because -a number of men were killed one by one and there were stories of a -ghost. Soldiers hunted and some of us went out many nights. At last -some one was stabbed but before he died shot a tall man dressed as a -woman. What with the night, tall grass in which to slip out of sight, -and dark dress, the ghost theory is easy. His trick had been to ask -you for the time or for a light, and stab you as you got it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> For -some time after if one was asked for a light about there after dark, -one threw a matchbox and said help yourself.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_056a.jpg" width="600" height="466" alt="O'Geary." /> -<div class="caption">O'Geary.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_056b.jpg" width="500" height="411" alt="three men drinking, smoking" /> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="HEALTH_AND_APPETITE" id="HEALTH_AND_APPETITE">HEALTH AND APPETITE.</a></h2> - - -<p>Sitting in a little park in Los Angeles some one sat down on the other -end of the bench. Seeing a dilapidated pair of boots that did not -match I went on reading. After a while the stillness was broken by: -"Got ten cents pardner?"</p> - -<p>"What do you want ten cents for?" said I.</p> - -<p>"Well, pardner, I'm here from Milwaukee, was in the lumber trade -there and got six dollars a day, my brother has a big place there; -he sent me some money yesterday, I got broke, an' I went on a tear -an' spent it all, an' my mouth's awful dry an' I want a drink." It -sounded straight so we had a talk about the Keeley cure about which -I told him, and about Florida and lumber about which he told me and -compromised on twenty-five cents of which he agreed to spend fifteen -on solid food; hope he did.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 451px;"> -<img src="images/i_058.jpg" width="451" height="500" alt="Tramp, Tramp, Tramp, the Boys Are Marching." /> -<div class="caption">"Tramp, Tramp, Tramp, the Boys Are Marching."</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="KNUCKLE-DUSTING" id="KNUCKLE-DUSTING">KNUCKLE-DUSTING.</a></h2> - - -<p>Coming up from Aspinwall to New York, a second-class passenger came -into the first-class saloon and a big steward objected. Man did not -like it and when the steward swore at him, he struck the steward (much -the biggest man) and knocked him down; the steward said the man used -a knife; no one had seen a knife<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> but over the Steward's heart was a -little tear in his white duck. Captain took a hand, and steward, who -had had a bad record was put in irons. Other man turned out to be an -artist; had been through Borneo—of all places—and come out alive -with a wonderful lot of pictures and photographs (burned later). Came -into my cabin as he wanted to copy a little sketch of Panama. Showed -me how that tear happened; he used a knuckle-duster that was in his -pocket when he (the steward) came at him the second time. An ugly -thing; iron ring with holes that your fingers go through, short spikes -over your knuckles, and a longer one below your clenched hand.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_060a.jpg" width="600" height="440" alt="The Knuckle-duster." /> -<div class="caption">The Knuckle-duster.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_060b.jpg" width="500" height="463" alt="Callers!" /> -<div class="caption">Callers!</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="WANDERERS" id="WANDERERS">WANDERERS.</a></h2> - - -<p>Making a fire after a long day in the boat and not thinking there was -anyone else for miles; rather there was not, as the nearest place is -the line between two states where a number of "bad men" have settled. -When the soldiers from one state come for any of them (if they ever -do) the men can step over the line. Well, we were getting wood and -one of us came out of the night with a fellow walking behind, knife -in hand (such a foolish thing; why not in front?) A canoe slid out of -the fog with two muffled women astern, and three more men who got out -and stood round the fire. As they had their knives out, one of us left -fishing in the boat and passed guns round to our side. Then we talked -and ate. They were very free and easy villains<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> but went off into the -fog again all right. After keeping watch awhile we went to sleep.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="THE_WEARY_PLOUGHBOY" id="THE_WEARY_PLOUGHBOY">"THE WEARY PLOUGHBOY."</a></h2> - - -<p>"The weary ploughboy homeward bound," and not knowing one day from -another here we were ploughing with bullocks when a man riding by -said: "Thought you English did not work Sundays." My brother was -wild; he threw the ear ropes down and wanted to know "If he'd lived -all these years and traveled all these miles to plough Sundays with -adjectived bullocks in a condemned country!" Bullocks are trying. The -Reverend—looking out of the train at Frayle Muerto saw an Englishman -swearing wonderfully at his bullocks. The Reverend told him to be -gentle; the man being angry threw his ropes down, telling the Reverend -to take them around himself. The Reverend did so; and it is said -that by the time he got around—well you can guess. We got a little -two-wheeled cart and with a broncho not used to driving. Some one -behind him with his leather belt and buckle; and a peon on a horse -in front to pull him along, and so across camp to a railway and my -brother went back to England. The rest of the outfit got home somehow.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_062.jpg" width="600" height="441" alt="Nineteen Miles to Go Across Camp and The Day is -Departing, de-par-ar-ting." /> -<div class="caption">Nineteen Miles to Go Across Camp and "The Day is -Departing, de-par-ar-ting."</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="A_QUARREL_CANDELARIA" id="A_QUARREL_CANDELARIA">A QUARREL—CANDELARIA.</a></h2> - - -<p>Swede playing billiards with an Italian in a cafe full of Italians; -they quarrelled and the Swede used his cue and the Italian a small -knife, as the manager came in the Swede went down and some men bolted.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_064a.jpg" width="600" height="421" alt="Bringing in Ruffinelli." /> -<div class="caption">Bringing in Ruffinelli.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/i_064b.jpg" width="550" height="384" alt="Our Last Night on the Plata" /> -<div class="caption">Our Last Night on the "Plata".</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> - -<p>Manager locked the doors with thirty or forty inside but the man had -gone. Three of us went through houses where men were sleeping and then -a mile into camp to a house where two Italians and a big dog lived; -knocked; man appeared behind dog in doorway. H told him to call off -his dog; would not; so H shot the dog and we went in. Found Ruffinelli -in bed, pretending sleep; shirt covered with blood and head tied up; -not pretty to look at. Put him on a horse and tied his feet together, -brought him to the only brick building in town. Some got on top of it -with guns while the manager did sentry; there are hundreds of Italians -here. A stage starts for town at 8 A. M. and the manager suggested -that if there were no passengers the stage should take the man in -now before the other gentlemen woke up, and we could go to bed. It -was done, and Ruffinelli went off and later got seven years on the -frontier.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="FIRE_AGAIN" id="FIRE_AGAIN">FIRE AGAIN.</a></h2> - - -<p>A cold night on this big river though we are getting south now after -our thousand miles in our little boat; so we got ashore and supped -on grebe which reminded one of red herrings. Found a little grass -hut built by a woodcutter possibly, and three of us snuggled up on -the floor, just big enough, with a candle and part of a book. Heaven -knows where the man got it. Well, we went to sleep and the bookman -knocked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> the candle over and the fire ran up the hut luckily one of -us woke and put it out and the others never knew and told the fireman -next noon that "he had been dreaming"; is so, why that black streak? -Another morning we found a big jaguar and cub had passed a yard from -A's head. They were grunting all night close to us in the jungle, and -could not have been hungry as there were five of us to choose from. -Got aboard and got lost on the Chaco side of the river. This gran -Chaco is an endless maze of creeks and little islands covered with -trees and jungle, no birds or beasts seemingly and the fish won't bite -often. There are some hostile Indians but the chances are greatly in -favor of starving to death, a desolate place but the wind brought us -to the river again and when the cox wanted to go about, it blew so -fresh that mast and big lateèn sail went. Two of us jumped and held on -to it but it was hard on finger nails and as there was quite a little -sea our small boat was tumbling about. We all had our trousers rolled -up to our knees except Maria, who was a Paraguayan woman and wife of -Salvador, a Portuguese, who we called Joe. Fortunately there was a -little island on to which we drifted. Maria was frightened and knelt -down a few yards off, with her skirt over her head, for five minutes, -like an image. Then she rose up and said: "It is a bad wind; we shall -not get to Rosario alive," and set to work like a little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> man. We -fixed our mast up with fish lines and whatever we had. Drifting again -on the Chaco side where the jungle is not as thick as on the other, -with more trees. We ran in to look at what turns out to be boughs bent -over in a half-circle, once a tiny hut four feet high. Now the thatch -is gone and there is two or three inches of water and rotten leaves, -sitting in which and leaning against the boughs is a skeleton and a -worm-eaten flint lock musket alongside, the skull has rolled or been -blown off and lies there. What a death! miles of dark silent forest -behind, in front the immense river, the wash of which is the only -sound. Poor devil, wonder who it was once! We left it sitting there -and I do not suppose anyone will come across it again.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 490px;"> -<img src="images/i_066a.jpg" width="490" height="419" alt="A Dismal Swamp—Hundreds of Miles of It. Ye Gran Chaco." /> -<div class="caption">A Dismal Swamp—Hundreds of Miles of It. Ye Gran Chaco.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_066b.jpg" width="600" height="274" alt="Shipwrecked." /> -<div class="caption">Shipwrecked.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/i_068a.jpg" width="550" height="417" alt="A Lonely Skeleton." /> -<div class="caption">A Lonely Skeleton.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_068b.jpg" width="600" height="435" alt="horseman chasing cow" /> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="TWO_FALLS_AND_A_COW" id="TWO_FALLS_AND_A_COW">TWO FALLS AND A COW.</a></h2> - - -<p>Chasing a little cow bareback and riding loosely she made a quick turn -and the mare stuck to her just where we had worn a track bringing the -adobes for houses. Man's head struck the track and a native woman -carried the remains into a house and doctored him. Another time, -sitting on a blanket strapped around a tall black beast with a back -like the roof of a church, and leading a mare, dogs came and scared -the mare, man held but the rope was only around the mare's neck and, -as she was faster than the horse, man was pulled forward over the -horse's head, one hand full of reins, revolver, and mane, the other -of the mare.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> Strap round the blanket loosened and away went man -onto his back. Mare dragged him fifty yards over burned camp and the -skin came off his arms and the black stuff rubbed in. Took some time -to heal and he could not get up for a while because he thought his -back was broke; also he had to swear at the dog owners when they ran -up. One day, as we stood about among some piles of brick, a cow stood -pawing the dust up near, suddenly she charged and all got on brick -piles except one who thought it was all right because he was behind a -heap; but the cow turned round the corner and came at him head down -and tail up. Now would you think that that man stood perfectly still -and watched the cow's shoulder wondering if he had a sword whether he -could hit the right spot? We had been seeing a good many bull fights -lately. Anyway when he jumped to one side he did it mechanically and -the cow's horn tore his coat. She kept straight on though.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_070a.jpg" width="600" height="273" alt="The Mare Wins Easy." /> -<div class="caption">The Mare Wins Easy.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_070b.jpg" width="600" height="249" alt="El Hombre ò la Vaca." /> -<div class="caption">El Hombre ò la Vaca.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="REAL_GHOSTS" id="REAL_GHOSTS">REAL GHOSTS.</a></h2> - - -<p>Did you ever keep house for friends gone away? If you have not, don't -do it, the place is full of ghosts of live people, this is quite -unfair. No well conducted live person should have a ghost; but there -they are, and their feet go hither and thither making no sound, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> -their mouths eat at meals though the food never gets less, and they -talk to you and to each other. You know what they say though there is -no sound, and you get no answer if you speak to them. One does not -really object to it; they are just like the live people in a way; -they have exactly the same ways as the people they seem to be. They -seem to hear your remarks and pass them by; often I fancy you are -like a ghost to them, but one is not sure because if so why do they -listen to you? Still, as I said, one does talk to them—but they don't -answer. Do they expect you to reply to them; mine don't. In the open -air, gardening or filling up time someway, they are not with one so -much; it is at meals mostly. What becomes of them later. When you -come into the place at night the stillness is wonderful either in the -black darkness or with the bright moonlight shadowing everywhere with -wraiths of boughs and plants; but one misses the ghosts; there is only -an open grave; there's nothing in it.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 515px;"> -<img src="images/i_072.jpg" width="515" height="535" alt="Real Ghosts." /> -<div class="caption">Real Ghosts.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="ON_THE_SAN_RAFAEL_RANCH" id="ON_THE_SAN_RAFAEL_RANCH">ON THE SAN RAFAEL RANCH.</a></h2> - - -<p>Once on a time there was a ranch with a church on it amongst other -things. There was also a winery, and a man for whom the manager tried -to find work that he could do, having got down to weeding which was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> -not a success, he gave him the winemaker's shanty in which to sleep -close to the winery which he was to see was safe; and Sundays he was -to sweep the church by 11 o'clock. The manager had been doing this -when he took the flowers down formerly, coming down the first Sunday -that the man was to have done it, it was not done; so after getting -the church ready, the manager drove to the winery and found the door -forced, shouted down a trap door and the man appeared from below, -saying that four men with clubs had broken in; he watched them from -his window being afraid to interfere; but there were four empty wine -bottles in his room, he was told to pack. As he was sulky and wanted -to argue with a club full of nails to help him, he was put on the -floor and his head bumped till he was reasonable; the blacksmith put -his head in and requested that the man should not be killed. Manager -said he was not worth it and sent blacksmith off to put him on the -cars. Had smith fix the winery door again, after which they went to -church just in time to meet the clergyman from town. A very pretty -little church, built in memory of her husband who owned the ranch on -the road to the village (one hundred and ranch, by his widow. There -is a long tunnel on this thirty yards long) made by the last owner -trying for coal. When he did not find coal, he made a road of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> the -tunnel, and a big reservoir by banking at one end, fifty feet of this -embankment washed out in our big flood year (ground squirrels had -been working in it) and swept a railroad bridge away further down. We -come through nights without a light often and feel our way along the -sides with the whip, as dark a place as I ever was in, and there is -not above eighteen inches to spare, each side your wheels. Coming out -at one end there is a long downhill and once on a wagon with no break -or foot board. Sitting on top of a load of wheat the wagon ran onto -the four horses and away we went, the driver swung the horses off the -road onto the plough to the mountains, the only way to save a smash; -but as he swung, the rope loosened with the jerk and landed the sack -he sat on and him on his back in the road, close to the wheel, luckily -turning from him. He threw up the reins, the plough, etc., stopped the -horses and another man and he having sorted them out, got a better -wagon. That is enough about ranching.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 525px;"> -<img src="images/i_074a.jpg" width="525" height="468" alt="The Day of Rest." /> -<div class="caption">The Day of Rest.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_074b.jpg" width="600" height="399" alt="Saionara." /> -<div class="caption">Saionara.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 480px;"> -<img src="images/i_076a.jpg" width="480" height="443" alt="downhill with no brakes" /> -<div class="caption"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Went down the hill without the drag on,<br /></span> -<span class="i32">Poor Mary Ann.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Mother she waxed her, petted her and kissed her,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Docter he came and he put on a blister,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">If she'd a' died we'd never a' missed her;<br /></span> -<span class="i32">Poor Mary Ann."<br /></span> -</div></div></div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_076b.jpg" width="600" height="247" alt="Man in a Slough." /> -<div class="caption">Man in a Slough.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="EXPRESS_CHARGES" id="EXPRESS_CHARGES">EXPRESS CHARGES.</a></h2> - - -<p>In the pineries (Illinois), where there was shooting, a man got lost, -they are twelve miles through timber, ridges, and sloughs covered with -green moss that closes over you if you don't mind your ways. This man -luckily came across a solitary railroad track and as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> he had been out -a good while and was seven miles from home he sat down to smoke and -think about things. Then the handcar came along, three men; so the -shootster, who knew many of the men, got on and worked his passage -leaving his spaniel, Dash, to run. We came along, talking and singing, -till we came to the quarter mile long trestle bridge over the Calumet -and swamps. Here an express turned up behind us and we started to -work; oh, yes; we worked with that beast of a train getting closer. We -could not stop to get off the track, but we got to the little station -and a man at the switch had time to let us off while the express -thundered by. Whether they saw us or not we never knew; if they did it -was a cruel game to play and when we got in we sat on a woodpile and -felt queer. My dog turned up half an hour later; the pace was too good -for him at first. The undergrowth is so thick in those woods that you -cannot see any distance. It was here two brothers, shooting forward, -and whistling to know where each other was came to the edge of the -tall trees. A woodcock got up and shot off through the brush down this -edge. One man shot it and, looking beyond as he loaded, saw something -he could not make out. It turned out to be his brother's head.</p> - -<p>"What are you waiting for?" said No. 1.</p> - -<p>"The rest of the charge," said he, "you've shot me."</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_078a.jpg" width="500" height="491" alt="Express Charges—Pittsburg & Fort Wayne R. R." /> -<div class="caption">Express Charges—Pittsburg & Fort Wayne R. R.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_078b.jpg" width="600" height="342" alt="F. P. Long Stop." /> -<div class="caption">F. P. Long Stop.</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p> - -<p>"Oh, shot your grandmother," said No. 1. But all the same there was -one little spot of blood on his left cheekbone and I could feel the -shot which he never would take out though I wanted to; it was my shot -anyway.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="COTTON_PACKING" id="COTTON_PACKING">COTTON PACKING.</a></h2> - - -<p>In Shanghai it was against the law to pack cotton at night but it was -done, one night, in a big go-down, a lot of Chinese on a platform -ten feet above the floor were running round a capstan as if getting -up anchor, only their thing works downwards, around, around to their -eternal chant of ha ho, ha, hao o ha. Two fell over the edge. Now -there were pigs of lead piled up below and their skulls cracked like -eggs. The other fellows did not seem to care much and in the morning -carried the bodies off in their ropes and probably threw them in the -weeds a little way outside town. On the Bubbling Well road (so called -because there is a well that always has a bubble coming up from the -bottom), it used to be horrible sometimes in one's early morning ride. -They are rather an awful people, and there are razor-backed hogs that -roam around.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 435px;"> -<img src="images/i_080a.jpg" width="435" height="500" alt="Roll Dat Cotton." /> -<div class="caption">"Roll Dat Cotton."</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/i_080b.jpg" width="550" height="380" alt="carrying away the dead" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 392px;"> -<img src="images/i_082.jpg" width="392" height="600" alt="man underwater" /> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p> - -<p>Acapulco is a queer little place, mostly heat, blacks, shell work, -sharks, etc. There are immense sharks (about sixteen feet). They won't -look at pork with or without a hook in it. What do they eat. Must be -mostly the stuff thrown from ships. Some say that they run up into the -surf and catch the little darkies by the legs. Anyway they are big and -fat and there are lots of them.</p> - -<p>A war with the French is about to begin and the ships are expected but -have not come; so we can't land some French officers who are here to -join their ships—not good for them ashore just now.</p> - -<p>We were round, look, see business, and there was a fuss, and a fellow -shot and missed; but the bullet got my leg. Curious it did not sting -but was more like a blow; did not break anything though. The native -imitations of flowers (shell work) are very pretty and there is lots -of coral, etc. Only a small place and not much clothing. An old fort -at the entrance with mouldy cannon, harbor to get into which one goes -up a passage that is parallel to the coast. You can't see anyway in -when you are out, or out when you are in, is like a big pond with -a grove of cocoanuts on the far side from the village but no other -trees except a palm or two, the colors of the mountains are fine, and -the young fry dive any distance after money thrown to them, as they -do at all these places, carry it in their mouths, their only pocket. -Principal industries, when<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> there is no ship to coal, lying in (and -out of) the sun and drinking; as some one said: "Customs beastly -manners none."</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="MAN_OVERBOARD" id="MAN_OVERBOARD">MAN OVERBOARD.</a></h2> - - -<p>Aboard a ship where there were a lot of young men passengers, and -jumping back and forth over open hatches, diving from the yardarm, -catching sharks, and revolver practice at men-of-war hawks, molly -hawks, cape pigeons, catching albatross with a hook and line, etc., -were among the amusements, some of us met at about 11 A. M. to -breakfast in a cabin the owner of which had a hamper of cakes and two -boxes of Partaga and Regalia Brittanica cigars, these men amongst whom -were a T— and two M's—had been brought up on civilized things so the -unfortunate owner's cigars went fast. One of us poor fellows was too -fond of drinks and other things and had no business to have come as -he soon got d.t's. and was shut up in his cabin with a sentry. Some -way he got out, ran the length of the saloon, and dived through the -big stern window, through the glass, bending the guard rods right and -left. A man standing by the wheel on deck above, looking aft, saw the -head and arms of a man rise on the top of a following wave, shouted -"man overboard",<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> and threw a preserver. The captain was very good -and we went astern for an hour or more which was dangerous with the -sea that was running; had a boat out too. Then we picked up the boat -and went ahead and he floated alongside near where he went overboard. -They tried everything, though he had already been a little eaten by -fish. Several of our crowd on this ship could not stand the new life -after landing. H shot himself. W shut himself up with brandy and drank -till he died; and so on.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_084a.jpg" width="600" height="251" alt="Coaling—Rio Janeiro." /> -<div class="caption">Coaling—Rio Janeiro.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 427px;"> -<img src="images/i_084b.jpg" width="427" height="500" alt="Man Overboard—Bay of Biscay." /> -<div class="caption">Man Overboard—Bay of Biscay.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="THE_OLD_OAKEN_BUCKET" id="THE_OLD_OAKEN_BUCKET">"THE OLD OAKEN BUCKET."</a></h2> - - -<p>If you do not know what baldearing is and are short of amusement, tie -the end of a well rope to your cinch and then walk your horse away -eighty feet or so till your bucket comes up full, if you like to and -have a trough along side, arrange it so that bucket catches and tilts -at the top so as to let the water into the trough, or 'troff' as I -suppose it will be spelled later. Then walk your horse back and down -goes your bucket. The first time one man tried, as he turned he let -the rope touch the horse and this horse did not approve. It whirled -around a few times, tied himself up in a knot, and over they went. -Horse up again some way and got to the end of his rope in a hurry. The -two brick pillars of the well (the pride of the man's heart) crumbled -away and off went that animal with eighty<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> foot or so of suga, the -bucket, and the cross beam, into a drove of mares which stampeded -all over the world. Don't know what became of the mares but we got -the horse fifty miles from home next day. He was a good beast but -nervous about ropes apparently. It is better to have a quieter gee for -baldearing.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_086a.jpg" width="500" height="445" alt="Act I.—The Great Baldearing Trick." /> -<div class="caption">Act I.—The Great Baldearing Trick.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_086b.jpg" width="500" height="428" alt="Act II." /> -<div class="caption">Act II.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="A_DOGS_TALE" id="A_DOGS_TALE">A DOG'S TALE.</a></h2> - - -<p>Lx, who was one of the Prince of Wales shooting party around about -Chicago (F. W. was there also), had one of the dogs they shot over -with him. He was a liver colored pointer named Grouse, and one of the -most cantankerous beasts in temper I ever saw. Once he growled at Mark -(A No. 1 bullterrier owned by my brother). Mark was the quietest dog -unless he was bothered. He went for Grouse who jumped away so quickly -that Mark only reached his tail. It healed all right but left a lump -and we thought L— would be wild when he returned. However, he was -not, but thanked Frank, as he said Grouse bit when he was threshed and -L used to hold him by the tail and when he turned to bite hit him with -one of those short knotted dog whips; then Grouse would try the other -side and get straightened out again. So L was obliged; as he said he -never could hold him before as he could now from behind. This is a -true dog story. L was the man who always shot at an Indian.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_088a.jpg" width="600" height="198" alt="chasing horse" /> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_088b.jpg" width="500" height="455" alt="The Tale of Grouse." /> -<div class="caption">The Tale of Grouse.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="ARDEN" id="ARDEN">ARDEN.</a></h2> - - -<p>Leaving el Toro after about a ten mile drive over two ranges of small -mountains, through wild flowers,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> grain, cotton wood, and live oak -trees and by a creek, a fine drive but not for wild horses, you wind -past the home farm and turn sharply to your right over a bridge with -a swing gate, to find yourself suddenly amongst big lawns and live -oaks, great beds of roses and flowers, shrubbery, and a little lake -and glass houses. At the back of this eight acres or more is a natural -terrace one hundred feet high, covered with live oaks, geraniums, -creepers, etc., and up which goes a flight of steps to the orange -orchard at the top. Back of this on the mountains, they are all -round. At the foot of this terrace stands the house, a long rambling -collection of rooms, porches, entrances, open-air dining-room, etc., -very prettily built to harmonize with the scenery. From the inside -one looks out into a green sea of a dozen different shades of green; -inside it is a perfect place, everything one can want from madame down -to cocktails at which Mr. B. is a pastmaster. Pictures, music, books, -and most of them with histories. The rides and walks up the canyon -are beautiful, the one that goes on past the house winds through the -mountains and across and across the creek, ferns and flowers are all -about and one passes two little cabins, in the furthest of which they -lived when they first came out, there are stories of a bear that -comes here but we don't see anything of him—there are live stock, -olives, oranges, etc., and bees, on the ranch. Friends are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> always -coming and going, carriages meeting the train at el Toro twice a week -for friends, and so many visitors (and uninvited guests) come that -there has been a well sunk and grounds made for picnic parties about -a quarter of a mile from the house. "Arden" is its name and madame -played Rosalind on the lawn once, where the hammocks and tables for -afternoon tea, etc., are, one forgets that there is any world outside -here, why should you remember when there is all you want, and nothing -to remind you? There are papers of course if you can't let them alone. -"The world forgotten, by the world forgot", is something like it but -not nice enough, and we do a little honey business and get stung -enough to see what it is like, and sometimes garden with musical -interludes and play whist and poker, and fight about gardening or -cards, or whether dried currants are currants, and make cigarettes -with crafty little machines, and go walks and get flowers sometimes -drive or ride or shoot or fish, or watch R making a contraption for -pumping water out of the lake, or go up to where a 40-foot high dam is -starting across a road where the rocks nearly meet, this will make a -big lake, more water, fish and boating, you don't know how the days go -till you are away—then you know.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_091.jpg" width="600" height="199" alt="Arden, 1897." /> -<div class="caption">Arden, 1897.</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p class="datesig"> - -Los Angeles, October 14, 1897.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Well, beginning on the left is the little house Mr. B and -Madame went to stay, but when she was getting better last -time, they said it was dryer than her own room—next that -is an enclosed yard with a store room at the back and over -it a room where her theatrical<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> dresses are kept, the -little house right off that is the house girls' rooms, in -front of the last is a bed of carnations and where the two -girls are is the open air dining room, next that is the -indoor dining room, kitchen behind, then Nashtia's room -with a rustic well in front, part of dining room behind -and part of kitchen and big pantry behind that—then an -entrance and little hall behind which is my room as they -call it and bathroom beyond—then Mr. Bozentas' study, hall -behind and then the room with the church windows (the odd -window is a seat of Madames) this a very large room and -goes the whole depth of the house and up to the rafters -with a big granite fireplace and no end of pretty things in -it. I suppose you would call it a drawing room—then there -is a spare bedroom, hall and another bedroom at the back, -then an entrance with a bathroom beyond the hall—then Mr. -B's room with Madame's at the back and these open onto -a wide deep porch with Japanese screens and trellis and -creepers which is the end—the kitchen garden is beyond -the shrubbery to the left and that lawn runs to the right -ever such a way to the farmyard entrance—at the back is -a deep hill 50 yards high or more covered with live oak, -geraniums, wild grasses and so on—on top there is an -orange and olive orchard—in front excepting drives it is -all garden and shrubbery to a creek with a swing gate, I -dare say there are 8 or 10 acres, all this and a small -valley are shut in by high mountains and you exist in a -sort of green sea. That is Madame by her porch, the girls -on the right were Misses Langenberger, Yorke and Easton. -I am doing roses on the well, Annie and Maggie are in the -open dining room, Nashtia is by the little house, Mr. B is -talking to Johnny, left front, Sam is watering with his -small and faithful Bobilo dog near him, the other dog is -a big hound named Rock. If you keep this till you get the -sketch perhaps you can make it out.</p></div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/i_092a.jpg" width="550" height="362" alt="Weeding." /> -<div class="caption">Weeding.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_092b.jpg" width="500" height="446" alt="1900—Beginning of the D——." /> -<div class="caption">1900—Beginning of the D——.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_094a.jpg" width="600" height="348" alt="Let Go!" /> -<div class="caption">Let Go!</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/i_094b.jpg" width="550" height="377" alt="They're Off!" /> -<div class="caption">They're Off!</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p> -<h2><a name="HORSES" id="HORSES">HORSES.</a></h2> - -<p class="center"> -"A horse, a horse, my kingdom for a horse."<br /> -</p> - - -<p>One man who was nervous wanted to drive forty miles across camp to -Rosario, Santa Fé, and one of us who was not nervous said he would -drive the pair of greys; one had been in harness twice and the other -not at all; but the trap and harness were strong. So when the driver -went to start and found them loading chains and ironware in case there -was a runaway, he had it out again; there are no fences or ditches and -all there was to do if they did runaway was to head for Rosario, they -did, after trying if they could fly, horses buck here more than they -kick, and when they wanted to stop the driver prevailed on them with a -whip to keep on till one tried to fall down and nearly pulled him over -the dashboard, but they got to town. Talking of bucking; we have some -prize-takers. We all tried one and no one could stay on. Sometimes -a piece of wood is used which you tie in front and push your knees -under, or a blanket rolled up helps. Another, a beautiful labuno, was -brought for me one day, the Señora who knew the horse, asked if I was -a domador which I am not at all, she said "better not get on" and next -day I knew she was right. Our best rider was going to try but the -horse went around in circles at the end of a lasso, bucking like an -airy fiend, everything flying till he broke away and no one got near -him for hours, then he was captured with bolas, all this is different -from hunting or riding races, the horse seems to express his opinions -more freely and forcibly here, and one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> wants a special education. In -Australia I know there is plenty of bucking, but I never was there, -we had some horses from there in China, one of them (F—s) bucked his -saddle over his head and never broke the girths. I did not see this -but it is true. Another fell in a race and would not get up although -fire-crackers were let off among his legs; then they tied a chain to -him and dragged him away. Don't know if he ever got up. One Tartar -pony I knew ran away with a Consul and up forty steps into the grand -stand, another in a race jumped on top on one of these wide mud walls, -and as he had his fore legs one side and hind legs the other he had to -be taken off. I was riding in these races and we had no end of fun; -last a week, but two men were nearly killed and one horse quite.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_096a.jpg" width="500" height="483" alt="Russian Consul Going for the Grand Stand—Shanghai." /> -<div class="caption">Russian Consul Going for the Grand Stand—Shanghai.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 464px;"> -<img src="images/i_096b.jpg" width="464" height="514" alt="Get on Ferguson." /> -<div class="caption">"Get on Ferguson."</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_096c.jpg" width="600" height="355" alt="One on the Wall." /> -<div class="caption">One on the Wall.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_096d.jpg" width="600" height="371" alt="A Bad 'un to Mount." /> -<div class="caption">A Bad 'un to Mount.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_096e.jpg" width="600" height="441" alt="Lloyd's Crumpler on Miss Louise. Steeple. Flat." /> -<div class="caption">Lloyd's "Crumpler" on Miss Louise. Steeple. Flat.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="SUDDEN_DEATH" id="SUDDEN_DEATH">SUDDEN DEATH.</a></h2> - - -<p>In Los Angeles on Main street a hack drove along and one man directed -another's attention to two girls in it. They were very pretty but like -many others, had their faces covered with white powder, these were -Mexicans. They drove across to Rose and Ferguson's stable (Rose shot -himself later) and then down Commercial street and Los Angeles street -to a hotel with a man (I— F) they picked up at the stables. One of -the first two men was passing as the hack stopped and made a grab for -the girl, who got out first, because as the man put his foot on the -hack step to get out, she<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> shot him in the eye and he fell forward -onto the sidewalk dead. She only said: "He'll never fool another girl" -and was going to shoot again but changed her mind and walked off with -her sister to the police station to give herself up. She was tried; -she was impudent and said she would shoot anyone that said anything -about her. Some fellows took her bouquets; she got no punishment, of -course, and the day she was free went to get the revolver which she -had borrowed she said. B's daughter shot at a man on Spring street -near First three times front of where the P. O. used to be, but only -shot a bit off the top of his head. He ought to have been killed; his -folks had money though and he was let off. I was summoned as a witness -in this. The father knew me but I knew nothing of the affair. I got -mad in court as usual and Mr. S. W. let me go. There used to be a good -deal of shooting in Los Angeles but it is all changed now. At the same -corner of Commercial Street a man sat at an upstairs window and waited -till the man he wanted went along the other side; then he shot him -with a shot gun.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_098a.jpg" width="500" height="453" alt="The End of Don J— F. Front of White House, Commercial -St., Los Angeles." /> -<div class="caption">The End of Don J— F. Front of White House, Commercial -St., Los Angeles.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_098b.jpg" width="600" height="432" alt="shooting pool" /> -<div class="caption"> -Man coming in suddenly—"Now I've got you."<br /> -Man, looking up—"Oh let up, don't interrupt this game."<br /> -First man, paralyzed, walks out again without shooting.<br /> -<a id="The_Good_Old_Days"></a>The Good Old Days.</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>M and I used to go down Sonora town to Spanish fandangos and things -where there was often trouble. Once they were shooting in the night -around the adobes and a policeman fell down and was carried home but -when they searched they found the ball in his clothes and he was not -hurt a bit.</p> - -<p>I was shot in the Pico house and S— drove me to his funeral, next -week I was at S's funeral; he was shot in his room.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_100a.jpg" width="600" height="392" alt="One Adobe—Los Angeles." /> -<div class="caption">One Adobe—Los Angeles.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/i_100b.jpg" width="550" height="399" alt="Empty is the Cradle, Baby's Gone—San Rafael Ranch." /> -<div class="caption">"Empty is the Cradle, Baby's Gone"—San Rafael Ranch.</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span></p> -<h2><a name="THIEVES" id="THIEVES">THIEVES.</a></h2> - - -<p>Staying in a house full of things for friends who were away once there -was a burglary. I never knew till a day or two after. Well, the things -were mostly recovered; it was an old servant and his partner who did -it. When we looked around there was an outside adobe store room that -would not open and a locksmith said that the door was not locked. -After some gymnastics we found through an extremely dusty window that -there was something against the door. The crafty George had jammed a -crowbar into the floor and leaned it against the door so that when -shut the other end of the bar dropped under a crosspiece and held the -door like a rock. Wonder where he learned that.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_102a.jpg" width="600" height="474" alt="California—Voices of the Night." /> -<div class="caption">California—Voices of the Night.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_102b.jpg" width="500" height="477" alt="Pincher—All That Could be Seen, or Heard." /> -<div class="caption">Pincher—All That Could be Seen, or Heard.</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>One night, being away from a ranch some one went into my bedroom and -took the cash box (only $225 and $50 was mine and $15 A. C. J's). -There were two men playing chess in the next room who never went to -see what was going on though all the dogs were wild the men say, and -the men's quarters are some distance away. We found the broken box on -the tennis court, house table, all the money, but $19 church money in -an envelope, gone of course. Never knew who did it. Another time, at a -little ranch I had five miles from town, I used to walk out sometimes -at night. Some one broke in one night as I found the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> door open but -nothing gone. So next Sunday I left everything just the same and came -out after dark but earlier and lay down with my gun just opposite the -door, at twelve whoever it was came (there was no house near) and I -lay trying to hear what they said but could not. They came to the door -and then that little fiend Pincher (my fox terrier) turned up from -some where and "raised Cain"; they left and I followed a little way; -it was a black night; struck one that searching for gentlemen one had -not been introduced to, able to see nothing ahead and with the light -from the open door in one's rear, was not correct; so I went to bed. -Next morning found where they had tied their horses in the willows -down by the creek. Mexicans from the mountains probably. Have not -had many robbery games. Father went down once long ago with a sawed -off shotgun and I went to open the door. I asked him after "what he -thought about?" and he said that he thought he should spoil a new -carpet.</p> - -<p>Another time still further back, when so small that I was sleeping in -his room, I woke him to see the shadow of a ladder on the blind in -London. There were burglars, but in the next house. He caught one and -let him go and the grateful ruffian sent him a paper of written rules -as to how to make his house safe.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 520px;"> -<img src="images/i_104a.jpg" width="520" height="446" alt="Marshals Them the Way That They Should Go?" /> -<div class="caption">Marshals Them the Way That They Should Go?"</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i_104b.jpg" width="600" height="439" alt="Oh Lie Down P.—— It's All Right." /> -<div class="caption">"Oh Lie Down P.—— It's All Right."</div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p> -<h2><a name="BRIEF_AUTHORITY" id="BRIEF_AUTHORITY">BRIEF AUTHORITY.</a></h2> - - -<p>Once upon a time a man, call him P.o1, was Marshal at a big picnic -and cavorted around in a gorgeous scarf, riding an ancient but fiery -untamed Mexican bronco, blanco I mean, which had lots of action, -particularly forward. This man had been yarning with another, call him -P.o2, who had also been in the golden South Americas and who, being -in that frivolous state of mind, often found in travelers, insisted -on climbing up behind P.o1 whenever he got a chance, and inciting the -blanco till the action became worse than ever, and the three nearly -got seasick. They did not though, but feasted sumptiously on part of -a whole bullock barbecued, which was so good that they wished they -had known him when alive; might have been better men. Picnic was a -success but P.o2 was not satisfied with one day, and carried on till -a couple of weeks later P.o1 got a message to come to the St. C. -hotel. P.o2 had got D.T.'s and was amusing himself trying to get out -of a three-story window. The St. C. people sent for P.o1 who took the -maniac away and kept him in his bedroom for four abandoned nights. -P.o2 was big and wiry and strong withal, and in the lengua del pais -it was "no circus". P.o2 got better and two years after P.o1 had a -telegram from him saying their ship went down in the Atlantic and took -his twenty thousand draft with her, and he was busted. Now he is in -England with a title and estate and P.o1 has neither, and this is the -reward of virtue—but P.o1 was a Marshal once—and</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"The world goes up, and the world goes down,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And the sunshine follows the rain;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And yesterday's sneer and yesterday's frown<br /></span> -<span class="i2">never come over again."<br /></span> -</div></div></div> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></p> -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"La vie est vaine:<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Un peu d'amour,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Un peu de haine ...<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Et puis—bon-jour!<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">La vie est brève:<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Un peu d'espoir,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Un peu de rève ...<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Et puis—bonsoir." ...<br /></span> -</div></div></div> - - - -<hr class="full" /> -<p class="transnote"><b>Transcriber's Notes</b><br /><br /> - -Repositioned illustrations and silently corrected minor punctuation -errors. Retained original spelling except for the following changes:<br /> -<br /> -Page <a href="#Page_21">21</a>: Tencriffe may be a typo for Teneriffe (now Tenerife).<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Orig: Eleven days in the Bay of Biscay off Tencriffe.)</span><br /> -<br /> -Page <a href="#Page_27">27</a>: Changed "quanaco" to "guanaco."<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Orig: everything is mixed up with the quanaco in the dark)</span><br /> -<br /> -Page <a href="#Page_61">61</a>: Changed "villians" to "villains."<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Orig: They were very free and easy villians)</span><br /> -<br /> -Page <a href="#Page_90">90</a>: Changed "prettyly" to "prettily."<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Orig: very prettyly built to harmonize with the scenery.)</span><br /> -<br /> -Page <a href="#Page_93">93</a>: Changed "shruberry" to "shrubbery."<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Orig: all garden and shruberry to a creek)</span><br /> -<br /> -Page <a href="#Page_105">105</a>: Changed "mim" to "him."<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Orig: yarning with another, call mim P.o2,)</span><br /> -<br /> -Page <a href="#Page_106">106</a>: English Translation:<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Life is in vain:</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">A little love,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">A little bit of hatred ...</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">And then—good-day!</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Life is short:</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">A little hope,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">A little dream ...</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">And then goodnight." ...</span><br /> -</p> - - - - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Tramp's Scraps, by H. 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