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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7c28e0 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #50609 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/50609) diff --git a/old/50609-0.txt b/old/50609-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index ccfa577..0000000 --- a/old/50609-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11543 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Fifteen Years Among the Top-Knots, by L. H. Underwood - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Fifteen Years Among the Top-Knots - Life in Korea - -Author: L. H. Underwood - -Release Date: December 4, 2015 [EBook #50609] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIFTEEN YEARS AMONG THE TOP-KNOTS *** - - - - -Produced by David Edwards, Wayne Hammond, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - -[Illustration: SENTINEL GATE AT PALACE. _Frontispiece_] - - - - - FIFTEEN YEARS - - _AMONG_ - - THE TOP-KNOTS - - _OR_ - - _LIFE IN KOREA_ - - _By_ - - L. H. UNDERWOOD, M.D. - - _With Introduction - - by_ - - FRANK F. ELLINWOOD, D.D., LL.D. - - SECOND EDITION - REVISED AND ENLARGED - - [Illustration] - - YOUNG PEOPLE’S MISSIONARY MOVEMENT - OF THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA - NEW YORK - - - Copyright, 1904, - - BY AMERICAN TRACT SOCIETY. - - * * * * * - - Copyright, 1908, - - BY AMERICAN TRACT SOCIETY. - - - THIS LITTLE VOLUME - IS GRATEFULLY DEDICATED TO - - MY HUSBAND - - IN MEMORY OF - FIFTEEN HAPPIEST YEARS - - - - -INTRODUCTION - - -It may be said at once, that Mrs. Underwood’s narrative of her -experience of “Fifteen Years Among the Top-Knots” constitutes a book of -no ordinary interest. There is no danger that any reader having even -a moderate sympathy with the work of missions in the far East will be -disappointed in the perusal. The writer does not undertake to give a -comprehensive account of missions in Korea, or even of the one mission -which she represents, but only of the things which she has seen and -experienced. - -There is something naive and attractive in the way in which she -takes her readers into her confidence while she tells her story, as -trustfully as if she were only writing to a few relatives and friends. -Necessarily she deals very largely with her own work, and that of -her husband, as of that she is best qualified to speak. Everywhere, -however, there are generous and appreciative references to the heroic -labors of associate missionaries. Nor does she confine these tributes -to members of her own mission. Some of her highest encomiums are given -to members of other missions, who have laboured and died for the Gospel -and the cause of humanity in Korea. - -Mrs. Underwood, then Miss Lillias Horton, of Chicago, went to Korea as -a medical missionary in 1888. As a Secretary of the Presbyterian Board, -accustomed to visit our candidates before appointment, I found her a -bright young girl of slight and graceful figure in one of the Chicago -hospitals, where she was adding to her medical knowledge some practical -experience as a trained nurse. There was nothing of the consciousness -of martyrdom in her appearance, but quite the reverse, as with cheerful -countenance and manner she glided about in her white uniform among the -ward patients. It was evident that she was looking forward with high -satisfaction to the work to which she had consecrated her life. - -The story of her arrival at Chemulpo, of her first impressions of -Korea, is best told in her own words. The first arrival of a missionary -on the field is always a trying experience. The squalid appearance of -the low native huts, whose huddled groupings Mrs. Underwood compares -to low-lying beds of mushrooms, poorly clad and dull-eyed fishermen -and other peasantry, contrasting so strongly with the brighter scenes -of one’s home land, are enough to fill any but the bravest with -discouragement and despair. But our narrator passed this trying ordeal -by reflecting that she was not a tourist in pursuit of entertainment, -but an ambassador of Christ, sent to heal the bodies and enlighten the -souls of the lowly and the suffering. - -As a young unmarried woman and quite alone, she found a welcoming home -with Dr. and Mrs. Heron, and began at once a twofold work of mastering -the language, and of professional service at the hospital. Not long -after her arrival she was called to pay a visit to the queen, who -wished to secure her services as her physician. The relation soon grew -into a mutual friendship, and Mrs. Underwood from that time till the -assassination of the unfortunate queen was her frequent visitor, and in -many respects her personal admirer. She does not hesitate to express -her appreciation of the queen, as a woman of kind-hearted and generous -impulses, high intellectual capacity, and no ordinary diplomatic -ability. Of stronger mind and higher moral character than her royal -husband, she was his wise counsellor and the chief bulwark of his -precarious power. - -Though Mrs. Underwood’s book is of the nature of a narrative, yet its -smoothly running current is laden with all kinds of general information -respecting the character and customs of the people, the condition -of the country, the native beliefs and superstitions, the social -degradation, the poverty and widespread ignorance of the masses. The -account of missionary work is given naturally, its pros and cons set -forth without special laudation on the one hand, or critical misgiving -on the other. It is simply presented, and left to speak for itself, -and it can scarcely fail to carry to all minds a conviction of the -genuineness and marked success of the great work which our missionaries -in Korea are conducting. - -Mrs. Underwood’s marriage to Rev. H. G. Underwood, who had already been -four years in the country, is related with simplicity and good sense, -and the remarkable bridal tour, though given more at length, is really -a story not of honeymoon experiences, but rather of arduous and heroic -missionary itineration. It was contrary to the advice and against the -strong remonstrances of their associates and their friends in the U. -S. legation that the young couple set out in the early spring of 1889 -for a pioneering tour through Northern Korea. - -Fortunately for the whole work of our Protestant missions, the most -favorable impression had been made upon the Korean Court and upon -the people by the striking and most valuable service which had been -rendered by Dr. H. N. Allen, our first medical missionary, and now U. -S. Minister in Korea. He had healed the wounds of some distinguished -Koreans, who had been nearly killed in a midnight conflict between the -Chinese and Japanese garrisons at Seoul. - -Although there were strong prohibitory decrees against the admission -of foreigners in the interior, Mr. and Mrs. Underwood ventured to -presume upon the connivance of the officials at their proposed journey -to the far north. Traveling as missionaries and without disguise, it -was a plucky undertaking for the young bride, since, so far as known, -she was the first foreign woman who had made such a tour. The journey -was a protracted one and involved all kinds of hardship and privation. -Nothing worthy of a name of inn was to be found, but only some larger -huts in which travelers were packed away amid every variety of filth -and vermin. - -The curiosity of the people to see a foreign woman was such that the -mob everywhere scrupled not to punch holes through the paper windows -and doors to get a peep. After having been borne all day in a chair, -not over roads, but through tortuous bridle paths, over rocks and -through sloughs, it was found well-nigh impossible to rest at night. -All sorts of noises early and late added to their discomfort. As to -food, the difficulty of subsisting on such fare as the people could -furnish may be well imagined. They were not wholly free from the fear -of wild animals, for some districts through which they passed were -infested by tigers and leopards. But their greatest danger was that of -falling into the hands of roaming bands of robbers. Mrs. Underwood’s -account of one experience of this kind will be read with thrilling -interest. - -Fortunately, Mr. Underwood had already made one or two shorter tours -through the country alone, and had baptized a few converts here and -there. The passports also which he carried with him secured the favor -of some of the district magistrates, so that the two were not exposed -wholly to hostile influences. - -It is impossible in few words to do justice to the story related in -this interesting book, which was prepared by Mrs. Underwood at the -request of the American Tract Society, or do anything more than commend -in general terms its various presentations. One of these relating to -the experiences of a severe cholera season, during which missionaries, -not only medical but also clerical, remained faithfully at their posts, -unmindful of the personal risks and of the heat, filth and discomfort -of an unsanitary city in the most sickly months, in order to do all in -their power to save the lives and mitigate the sufferings of the poor -and despairing people. The account is given with great simplicity, -and without ostentatious claims of heroism, and may be regarded as a -true representation of the faithful service often rendered by our -missionaries in times of trial and great suffering. - -Mrs. Underwood’s book will be read with peculiar interest at this -time, when all attention is turned to the far East and especially to -Korea, which seems likely to be the battleground in the war between -Russia and Japan. The position of the poor Koreans, government and -people, is calculated to elicit the sympathy of all Christians and all -philanthropists. Every one wonders what will be the outcome for poor -Korea. It is indeed a time for earnest prayer that the God of nations -will overrule all current events for the best good of this beleaguered -people and for the advancement of Christ’s Kingdom. - - F. F. ELLINWOOD. - - NEW YORK, Feb. 20, 1904. - - - - -PREFACE - - -The chapters which are here given to the public are simply reminiscent, -a brief story of a few years of the writer’s life in one of the most -unique and interesting of all the Eastern countries, among a people who -are singularly winning and lovable. - -I beg that in reading these pages it may be remembered that this book -makes no pretense whatever to being a text or reference book on Korea, -or in any respect a history of Korean missions. The writer has simply -strung together a few events which have fallen under her own personal -observation during the last fifteen years. If more frequent reference -is made to the work carried on by my husband and myself than to others, -it is simply because it is only with regard to that which has been -woven into the web of my own experience that I can speak with exactness -and authority. All it is hoped to accomplish is, that sufficient -insight into the customs and character of the people, and their moral -and political atmosphere, with the results, opportunities and possible -limitations of mission work, may be given to induce the reader to study -further, and perchance to question what his relation to it all is. - -I must acknowledge my great indebtedness to Dr. H. N. Allen’s -chronological index, by which I have been able to verify many dates. - -I am also indebted to the “Korean Repository,” and to the “Life of -Dr. James Hall,” for part of the story of the events connected with -his work in Pyeng Yang, both before and after the war, and for the -official report of the trial of the queen’s murderers at Hiroshima. -More than all, I am obliged to my husband, by whose assistance I have -obtained from Koreans the particulars relating to the Emeute of 1884, -the Tonghaks, the Pusaings, the Independents, and the Romanists. He has -also given me many of the anecdotes of native Christian life, and as we -lived it all out ourselves, this volume is as much his as mine. - - LILLIAS H. UNDERWOOD. - - - - -CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER I - - PAGE - - First Arrival--First Impressions--The City of Seoul--Korean - Houses--Mission Homes--Personnel of Mission - in 1888--Beginnings of Work--Difficulties in Attaining the - Language--Korean Religions--Palace Women--First Interview - with Palace Women--Entertainment Given in my - Honor by President of Foreign Office--The Interdict--Confidence - Exhibited by Government in Protestant Missionaries--The - “Baby Riots”--Babies Reported to Have Been Eaten - at Foreign Legations--Restoring Confidence--The Signal--First - Invitation to Palace 1 - - - CHAPTER II - - The Palaces--The Stone Dogs--The Fire God’s Defeat--The - Summer Pleasure House--Royal Reception Hall--Court - Dress of Noblemen--First Impression of the King--Appearance - of the Queen--The Queen’s Troubles--The - Queen’s Coup d’État--The Verb Endings--The Queen’s - Generosity--Stone Fight--Gifts--The Quaga--Poukhan--Its - Impregnability--Picturesque Surroundings of Seoul--Pioneer - Work--Progress of Work--The Queen’s Wedding - Gift--Our Wedding--Opposition to my Going to the Interior--My - Chair--The Chair Coolies 20 - - - CHAPTER III - - We Start on our Wedding Journey--Songdo--Guards at - our Gates--Crossing the Tai-tong--Difficulties in Finding an - Inn--Korean Launderings--An Old Man Seeks to be Rid of - Sin--Mob at an Inn--A Ruffian Bursts Open my Door--Fight - in the Inn Yard--Pat Defies the Crowd--Convenience - of Top-Knots--A Magistrate Refuses to Shelter Us--The - “Captain” to the Rescue--Pack-ponies--We Lay a Deep - Scheme--Torch Bearers--A Mountain Hamlet--Tiger - Traps--Tigers--A Band of Thirty Conspire to Attack us--Guns - Used by Native Hunters--A Tiger Story 38 - - - CHAPTER IV - - Leaving Kangai--We Choose a Short Cut--Much Goitre - in the Mountains--A Deserted Village--The Jericho Road--We - are Attacked by Robbers--A Struggle in the Inn Yard--Odds - too Great--Our Attendants are Seized and Carried - Off--The Kind Inn-Keeper--Inopportune Patients--A Race - for Life--A City of Refuge--A Beautiful Custom--Safe at - Last--The Magistrate Turns Out to be an Old Friend--The - Charge to the Hunters 60 - - - CHAPTER V - - Our Stay in Wewon--We Give a Dinner--Our Guests--Magistrates - Propose that we Travel with a Chain-Gang--Our - Trip Down the Yalu--The Rapids--Contrast Between - Korean and Chinese Shores--We Enter Weju--The Drunken - Magistrate--Presents and Punishments--Unpleasant Experiences - with Insincere People--Rice Christians--The Scheming - Colporter--The Men Baptized in Weju--The Lost Passport--Another - Audience at the Palace--Queen’s Dress and - Ornaments--Korean Summer House--The Pocket Dictionary--Our - Homes 77 - - - CHAPTER VI - - An Audience at the Palace--Dancing Girls--Entertainment - Given after the Audience--Printing the Dictionary and - Grammar--A Korean in Japan--Fasting to Feast--Death of - Mr. Davies--Dr. Heron’s Sickness--Mrs. Heron’s Midnight - Ride--Dr. Heron’s Death--Difficulty in Getting a Cemetery - Concession--Forced Return to America--Compensations--Chemulpo - in Summer--The “Term Question” in China, - Korea and Japan--Difficulties in the Work 93 - - - CHAPTER VII - - The Mission in 1893--“The Shelter”--Opening of Japanese - War--Seoul Populace Panic Stricken--Dr. and Mrs. Hall in - Pyeng Yang--Heroic Conduct of Native Christians--Condition - of Pyeng Yang after the War--Dr. Hall’s Death--Preaching - the Gospel at the Palace--The Queen Seeks to - Strengthen Friendly Relations with Europeans--Her - Majesty’s Generosity--A Little Child at the Palace--The - Slaves of the Ring--A Christmas Tree at the Palace--The - Queen’s Beneficent Plans--The Post-office Emeute of 1884--A - Haunted Palace--The Murder of Kim Oh Kiun 106 - - - CHAPTER VIII - - Mr. McKenzie--The First Church Built by Natives--Mr. - McKenzie’s Sickness--His Death--Warning to New Missionaries--The - Tonghaks--Mr. Underwood’s Trip to Sorai in - Summer--Native Churches--Our Use of Helpers--Christians - in Seoul Build their Own Church--Epidemic of Cholera--Unhygienic - Practices--Unsanitary Condition of City 123 - - - CHAPTER IX - - Difficulty of Enforcing Quarantine Regulations--Greedy - Officials “Eat” Relief Funds--Americans Stand Alone to - Face the Foe--The Emergency Cholera Hospital--The Inspection - Officers--We Decide to Use the “Shelter”--A - Pathetic Case--The Jesus Man--Gratitude of the Koreans--The - New Church--The Murder of the Queen--Testimony of - Foreigners--The Official Report 136 - - - CHAPTER X - - The Palace after the Murder--Panic--Attitude of Foreign - Legations--The King’s Life in Hourly Danger--Noble - Refugees--Americans on Guard--Mistakes of the New Government--Objectionable - Sumptuary Laws--A Plan to Rescue - the King--One Night at the Palace--Forcing an Entrance--Our - Little Drama--Escape of General Yun 153 - - - CHAPTER XI - - Customs Centering around the Top-Knot--Christians - Sacrificing Their Top-Knots--A Cruel Blow--Beginning of - Christian Work in Koksan--A Pathetic Appeal--People Baptize - Themselves--Hard-Hearted Cho--The King’s Escape--People - Rally Round Him--Two Americans in the Interior--In - the Midst of a Mob--Mob Fury--Korea in the Arms of - Russia--Celebrating the King’s Birthday--Patriotic Hymns--Lord’s - Prayer in Korean 167 - - - CHAPTER XII - - A Korean Christian Starts Work in Haing Ju--Changed - Lives of Believers--A Reformed Saloon-Keeper--The Conversion - of a Sorceress--Best of Friends--A Pleasant Night - on the Water--Evidence of Christian Living--Our Visit in - Sorai--A Korean Woman’s Work--How a King Acts at - Times--Applicants for Baptism--Two Tonghaks--In a Strait - betwixt Two--Midnight Alarms--Miss Jacobson’s Death 183 - - - CHAPTER XIII - - Our Mission to Japan--Spies--One Korean Summer--The - Queen’s Funeral--The Procession--The Burial by - Starlight--The Independents--The Pusaings--The Independents - Crushed 201 - - - CHAPTER XIV - - Itineration Incidents--Kaiwha--Christian Evidences--Buying - Christian Books instead of an Office--Seed Sowing--Moxa’s - Boy in the Well--Kugungers Again--Pung Chung--Pyeng - Yang--The Needs of the Women 216 - - - CHAPTER XV - - Another Itineration--Christians in Eul Yul--A Ride in an - Ox-Cart--Keeping the Cow in the Kitchen--Ox-Carts and - Mountain Roads--The Island of White Wing--A Midnight - Meeting--Thanksgiving Day in Sorai--The Circular Orders--New - Testament Finished--All in the Day’s Work--The - Korean Noble--Meetings of the Nobility 237 - - - CHAPTER XVI - - Furloughs--Chong Dong Church--Romanists in Whang - Hai--Missionaries to the Rescue--Romanists Annoy and Hinder - the Judge--Results--Interview between Governor and - Priest--The Inspector’s Report--Women’s Work in Hai Ju--Death - of Mr. and Mrs. Johnson and Mrs. Miller 254 - - - CHAPTER XVII - - Historical Review--Korean Characteristics--Football between - Japan, China and Russia--Ill-advised Movements--Unrest - and Excitement--Korea Allied to Japan--Japanese in - Korea--Po an Whai--Kaiwha--Railroad Extension--Japanese - Protectorate--Petition to President Roosevelt--Removal - of American Legation--Education in Korea--Righteous - Army--True Civilization 272 - - - CHAPTER XVIII - - Present Status of Missions--Wonderful Progress--Education - for Girls--Medical Missions--Denominational Comity--Christianity - Spreading--Individuals at Work--Christian - Heroes--Character of Korean Christians--How the Work - Grows--Christian Influence--Training Classes--Circuit Work--Statistics--Rapid - Extension--Evangelistic Work--Joy and - Triumph--The Nation being Evangelized 300 - - - CHAPTER XIX - - Pentecostal Blessing--Special Meetings--Prayer Answered--Confession - of Sin--Revival in Schools--Great Meetings--Bible - Study--Effects of Blessings--Transforming Power--Holy - Spirit Revival--Comparative Statement of Growth--Features - of the Great Work--Union of Christians in Korea 335 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - SENTINEL GATE AT PALACE _Frontispiece_ - - CITY OF SEOUL Opposite page 1 - - MAIN ENTRANCE TO PALACE “ “ 10 - - KOREAN OFFICIAL IN CHAIR “ “ 16 - - KOREAN STONE DOG IN FRONT OF PALACE GATES “ “ 20 - - THE KING OF KOREA “ “ 24 - - THE GREAT MARKET AT CHEENJU “ “ 32 - - SURROUNDINGS OF SEOUL “ “ 32 - - A STREET CROWD “ “ 36 - - TAI-TONG RIVER “ “ 44 - - FERRY BOAT “ “ 44 - - METHOD OF IRONING “ “ 48 - - PRINCE YU CHAI SOON, COUSIN OF KING “ “ 60 - - HIGH KOREAN OFFICIAL, KIM YAN SIK “ “ 60 - - CARRIER OX “ “ 64 - - THE OX-CART OR TALGOOGY “ “ 64 - - A KOREAN VILLAGE “ “ 68 - - A BUTCHER SHOP “ “ 82 - - BASKET SHOP “ “ 82 - - PLEASURE HOUSE “ “ 90 - - GATE IN THE WALL OF NAMHAN “ “ 98 - - HOUSE USED BY MISSIONARIES ON TOP OF NAMHAN “ “ 104 - - DESERTED ROYAL DINING HALL “ “ 112 - - MR. CHAY CHO SI “ “ 120 - - ELDER YANG AND FAMILY “ “ 120 - - PARTY STARTING OUT IN MORNING FROM THATCHED INN “ “ 124 - - CHURCH AT SORAI “ “ 124 - - THE THREE STAGES OF MAN IN KOREA “ “ 128 - - THE ROUND GATE, SEOUL “ “ 146 - - A KOREAN TOP-KNOT “ “ 166 - - RUSSIAN LEGATION HOUSE “ “ 172 - - INDEPENDENCE ARCH “ “ 172 - - KOREAN WOMEN AT WORK “ “ 188 - - SCHOOL BOYS “ “ 192 - - GIRLS SEWING AND WRITING WITH NATIVE TEACHER “ “ 192 - - KOREAN STREET “ “ 198 - - HORSES IN AN INN YARD “ “ 198 - - CANDY BOY “ “ 218 - - ELDER SAW OF SORAI AND HIS FAMILY “ “ 234 - - MRS. KIM OF SORAI AND HER FAMILY “ “ 242 - - CARRIERS WITH JIKAYS “ “ 258 - - WOMAN WITH BUNDLE OF WASHING ON HER HEAD “ “ 258 - -[Illustration: CITY OF SEOUL. PAGE 3] - - - - -FIFTEEN YEARS AMONG THE TOP-KNOTS - - - - -CHAPTER I - - First Arrival--First Impressions--The City of Seoul--Korean - Houses--Mission Homes--Personnel of Mission in 1888--Beginnings - of Work--Difficulties in Attaining the Language--Korean - Religions--Palace Women--First Interview with Palace - Women--Entertainment Given in my Honor by President of Foreign - Office--The Interdict--Confidence Exhibited by Government in - Protestant Missionaries--The “Baby Riots”--Babies Reported to - have been Eaten at Foreign Legations--Restoring Confidence--The - Signal--First Invitation to Palace. - - -I landed in Korea at the port of Chemulpo on a cloudy, windy March day, -in 1888. My eyes fell on a rocky shore, back of which the bare sharp -outline of low hills, whitened with patches of snow, was relieved by -no trees to break the monotony of the scene. Dreary mud flats, instead -of a sandy beach, lay reeking and slimy along the water’s edge. As our -boat neared the shore, for there was and is no pier, and ships even -at high tide cannot approach very near, wild and strange-looking men, -uttering wild and strange-sounding speech, came hurrying down the hill -to inspect us. - -Their coarse black hair was long and dishevelled, in some instances -braided in a single pigtail, in most cases, however, tied on top of -the head, where a careless attempt at a top-knot had been made, but -elf-locks straying round the neck and face gave a wolfish and unkempt -appearance. They were Mongolians with all the race features, not -differing much from Chinese or Japanese except in dress, and being in -the main rather taller than the latter people. Their garments appeared -to consist of a short loose jacket and long baggy trousers, of a dirty -white native cloth. These garments among the poorer classes are never -changed oftener than twice in a month. - -These were the people among whom I had come to work--this the country -which I had chosen instead of the “groves and templed hills” of my own -dear native land. My heart swelled, and lifted up an earnest prayer -that it might not be in vain. - -In justice to the Koreans, however, I ought to say here, that the -people whom I saw that morning were of the lowest and roughest class, -their dress the poorest sort, and that Chemulpo, especially in March, -is perhaps the most forbidding and unsightly place in Korea. Being -the main port for the capital, it is made up, as ports often are, -very largely of a mixture of various nationalities. Many sailors and -traders, and especially Chinese and Japanese merchants, have built -their poor houses and shops in the main town. - -The trip from Chemulpo to Seoul, about twenty-eight miles, was made -the following day, in a Sedan-chair carried by four coolies. The road, -although a much traveled one, was very bad, but is now replaced by a -railroad which accomplishes the distance in about two hours and a half. -The country I found pleasantly rolling--comparatively few trees were -seen, and the population thereabout seemed quite sparse. Here and there -were squalid mud huts thatched with straw. I found on inquiry that this -little land, lying west of Japan, attached at its northern extremity to -China and Siberia, has an area of about ninety thousand square miles -and a population of over fourteen millions of people, with a climate -varying from that in the north, like northern New York, to that in the -extreme south, like southern Virginia. - -We approached Seoul about four o’clock in the afternoon, and I was -thrilled at the sight of the first walled town I had ever beheld. The -walls are very picturesque--built of great blocks of stone--hung with -ivy, and give an impression of great age. - -At the time of my arrival, and for some few years after, a very -interesting custom was in vogue with regard to the closing of these -gates. Korea had for centuries a signal fire service, by which news of -peace or war was with telegraphic rapidity conveyed to Seoul, and by -number, frequency of repetition and other expedients a tolerably useful -code had been established. On the south mountain, within the walls, -were four beacons, one for each point of the compass, to which these -lines converged. Every evening as soon as the sun had set, when the -bright glow of these four beacon fires published the fact that all was -well in his majesty’s dominions, four officials, whose business it was -to report to the king the message of the fires, presented themselves -at the palace, and with low obeisance, each announced that all was -well in the north--in the south--the east--and the west. On this, the -palace band struck up its gayest airs, and when this music was heard, -the signal was given for the tolling of the great curfew bell in the -center of the city. When the extremely sweet and solemn, low and yet -penetrating tones of this bell were heard, the ponderous gates were -swung to and barred, not to be reopened till the ringing of the same -bell at the first streak of dawn gave the signal to the keepers. - -Entering through these gates, fortunately not yet closed, we saw -narrow, filthy streets, flanked by low mud houses, either thatched with -straw, or tiled. It has been aptly said that the city looks like a vast -bed of mushrooms, since none of the Korean houses are built more than -one story high. - -The common people are very poor and their homes seem to an American -wretchedly poor and comfortless, and yet, compared with the most -destitute of London or New York, there are few who go cold or hungry -in Seoul. Each dwelling is so arranged that the part of the house -occupied by the women, which is called the _anpang_, or inner room, -shall be screened from sight from the street and from those entering -the gate--for every house has at least a tiny courtyard, part of which -is also screened off (either by another wall, or by mats, or trees and -bushes) for the women’s use. - -Many of the homes of the poor consist of but one room, with a sort of -outer shed, which is used as kitchen. Such a place often has no window, -or at most only a tiny one, and both window and door are covered with -white paper instead of glass. These doors are usually very low and -narrow, so that even a small woman must stoop to enter, and within it -is not always possible to stand upright except in the center, where -the roof is highest. These small rooms are easily heated by means -of a system of flues built under the floor, which consists of stone -and mud. A fire of brush and twigs is kindled under one side of the -house, and as the chimney opens at the other side, the draft naturally -carries smoke and heat through the flues, the floor becomes very hot, -and the whole room is quickly warmed. The fireplace is built in with -pots for boiling the rice--so that a great advantage is obtained in -the matter of economy, the one fire booth cooks and warms. Wherever -it can be afforded, a _sarang_, or men’s sitting room, which opens -directly on the street or road, or upon the men’s court, is part of the -establishment. Here any man may enter; male guests are entertained, and -fed, and here they sleep. No men not members of the family or relatives -ever enter the _anpang_. - -It is needless to say that everything in connection with these houses -is fearfully unsanitary, and many of them are filthy and full of -vermin. All sewage flows out into the unspeakable ditches on either -side of the street. Of late years efforts have been made to alter this -state of things, better streets have been laid, and the open sewers, -which have existed for many years, are sluiced out by the summer rains, -which are the salvation of the city. - -It was a great and delightful surprise when suddenly, entering a gate -in a mud wall, we left behind us these dirty streets and saw around us -a lovely lawn, flower beds, bushes and trees, and a pretty picturesque -mission home. It was like magic. I found our mission in possession of -native houses which had been occupied in past years by wealthy but now -ruined or banished noblemen. They had been purchased at a ridiculously -low price in a condition of dilapidation, repaired at little expense -and the interiors more or less Europeanized. The one which I entered -had, with great good taste, been left without other ceiling than its -quaint and massive beams and rafters of blackened wood, the walls were -prettily papered, and rugs and comfortable furniture and a few pictures -and ornaments gave a homelike air. The rooms were spacious, and having -been the dwelling of the rich, they were not so low or dark as those I -have just described. - -Our mission, which at that time had been established about four years, -was high in favor with the government. Dr. Allen first, and later Dr. -Heron, were the official physicians to the king, who had established -a government hospital, over which he had placed them in charge. Miss -Ellers, lately married, had been appointed medical adviser to the -queen and had been placed in charge of the women’s department of the -hospital, both of which positions she had resigned after her marriage, -and to both of which I had been appointed to succeed. The members of -the mission whom I found were Dr. and Mrs. Heron, Rev. H. G. Underwood -and Mrs. Bunker (formerly Miss Ellers). Dr. and Mrs. Allen had returned -to America on an official mission. - -Work had been well started, the hospital was daily crowded with -patients, in addition to which Dr. Heron had a large foreign and native -practice, as well as a hospital school for the instruction of future -drug clerks and medical students. Mr. Underwood had established an -orphan boys’ home and school, had assisted Dr. Allen in his clinics -till the arrival of Dr. Heron, and was at that time, in addition to -the entire care of the orphanage, teaching in the government hospital -school, which it was hoped might be the stepping stone to a medical -school. He was holding regular religious services, and about thirty had -been baptized. He had made a long trip into the interior, up to the -northern borders, selling tracts and preaching everywhere. Language -helps were in preparation, and the Gospel of Mark in a tentative form -had been translated. Miss Ellers was in charge of women’s medical -work up to my arrival, and was high in favor with the queen, who had -bestowed rank upon her, and many costly presents. She had also begun to -work and train the first member of the girls’ school. - -I found that help was much needed on all sides. The day after my -arrival saw me installed at the hospital with an interpreter at my -side. Here work usually lasted about three hours. My home was with Dr. -and Mrs. Heron, who with warmest kindness had fitted up a sunny room -for me. Here Dr. Heron and I had a joint dispensary, and here I was -besieged at all hours by women desiring medical attention. I soon found -that language study was continually interrupted very seriously by these -applicants, who respected not times or seasons. I was of course called -upon to visit patients in their homes, one of whom, the wife of the -Chinese minister of state, Prince Uan (now a very prominent personage -in Chinese matters), must be seen every day with an amount of ceremony -which took not a little of my precious time. However, finding that -others were being overworked, I consented to give two hours each day to -teaching the little orphans arithmetic and English. - -Of course we made slow progress, and floundered not a little when the -teacher knew no Korean, and the pupils no English. This institution -had the unqualified favor of the king, and except the hospital was the -first institution in Korea which illustrated the loving-kindness of the -Lord. We hoped it might become a successful school, where souls might -be saved, ere they had been steeped for years in vice, and the first -steps taken in the preparation of evangelists and preachers. Our duty -and chief desire was of course to acquire the language, but this was -much interrupted by this other work. As we stood there, such a little -company among these dying millions, we could not realize that hours of -preparation then meant doubled usefulness in years to come, and so time -and energy, that should have been spent mainly in study, were poured -out in hospital, dispensary and schools. - -The new missionaries of these later days are put in a language -incubator as soon as they arrive and kept there till they emerge -full-fledged linguists, who have passed three searching examinations -by the language committee of the missions. Then we sat down with an -English-Chinese dictionary (most scholarly Koreans know a little -Chinese), a Korean-French dictionary, a French grammar and a Korean -reader with a small English primer on Korean, the Gospel of Mark and -a Korean catechism for text books. We were presented to a Korean -gentleman knowing not one syllable of English, or the first principles -of the constructions of any language on earth, or even the parts of -speech, and without the glimmering of an idea as to the best methods -or any method of teaching, who yet was called, probably ironically, -“a teacher,” from whom we were expected to pump with all diligence -such information on the language as he was able to bestow. With -scanty knowledge of French, more than rusty from long disuse, I -labored and floundered, trying now this plan, now that, with continual -interruptions and discouragements. - -Before I could more than stammer a few sentences I was called upon to -begin religious teaching, so undertook a Sunday school service with the -little boys, using a catechism which I could not yet translate, but -(knowing the sounds) could hear the boys recite. Soon after I began -holding a Bible class with a few women, with the aid of a little native -boy who had learned English and a former sorceress who could read the -Chinese Scriptures. This woman would read the chapter, we all united -in the Lord’s prayer and in singing the few hymns then translated, and -I talked to the women through the medium of my little interpreter. I -struggled and stumbled. The women were patient and polite, but to our -Father it must have looked the spoiled tangled patchwork of the child -who wished to help, with ignorant, untaught hands, and made a loving -botch of it all. - -Perhaps right here a few words about the Korean religions may be in -place. Confucianism, Buddhism and Taouism all hold a sort of sway -over the natives, and yet all have lost, to a great extent, the -influence they once had. The majority have very little faith in any -religion. Confucianism, otherwise a mere philosophical system of -morals, has the strongest hold upon the people in the laws it enjoins -for ancestor worship. This custom, enforced by the strongest and most -widespread superstitions in the minds of the Koreans, binds them -with fetters stronger than iron. If ancestors are not worshiped with -most punctilious regard to every smallest detail of the law, dire -calamities will befall, from the wrath of irate and neglected spirits. -The servitude thus compelled is hard and wearisome, but not one jot or -tittle must be omitted, and woe to the wretch who, embracing another -doctrine, fails to perform these rites. He or she is looked upon as -more than a traitor to home and friends, false to the most sacred -obligations. Buddhism has fallen low, until very lately its priests -were forbidden to enter the capital, and they rank next to the slayer -of cattle, the lowest in the land. - -A few Buddhist temples are maintained at government expense or by -endowment, and women and children, and all the more ignorant, still -worship and believe, to some extent. The same classes also worship and -fear an infinite number of all sorts of evil deities--gods or demons, -who infest earth, air and sea, gods of various diseases, and all -trades; these in common with Satan himself must be propitiated with -prayers and sacrifices, beating of drums, ringing of bells and other -ceremonials too numerous to mention. - -Over all other objects of worship, they believe, is the great Heavens, -the personification of the visible heavens, who, as nearly as I can -discover, is identical with the Baal referred to in the Old Testament; -but everywhere their faith waxes more and more feeble in these old -worn-out superstitions. In many cases only respect for ancient customs -and public opinion keeps them even in appearance to the outward -forms of worship. They are as sheep without a shepherd, lost in the -wilderness, “faint and hungry, and ready to die,” and so when the -gospel comes, it finds many weary souls, ready to take Christ’s yoke -upon them and find his rest. - -And yet how hopeless looked the task we had before us in those days, -a little company of scarce a dozen people, including our Methodist -brethren, many of us able to stammer only a few words of the language -as yet, attempting to introduce Christianity into a nation of fourteen -or more millions of people, in the place of their long established -religions; and beginning with a few poor farmers and old women. But the -elements of success, the certainty of victory, lay in the divine nature -of the religion, and in the Almighty God who sent us with it. This -knowledge inspired us and this alone. - -A few days after my arrival in Seoul a messenger came from the queen, -to bid me welcome, and inquire if I had had a pleasant journey, and -shortly after Mrs. Heron asked some of the queen’s attendants to meet -me at luncheon. These women are not, as in other courts, ladies of -high rank, for such could never, under Korean customs, endure the -publicity of the palace, but are taken as children and young girls from -the middle and lower classes, and entirely separated from all others, -to the service of their majesties. They usually hold no rank, and are -treated with respect, only on account of their relations to the royal -family. They wear on all state occasions immense quantities of false -hair, which gives them a peculiarly grotesque appearance; are much -powdered and perfumed, with pencilled and shaven eyebrows; wear long -flowing silken robes, gilded ornaments in their hair and at their -waists; and present the sad spectacle of women whose very decorations -seem only to add to and emphasize their painful uncomeliness. - -[Illustration: MAIN ENTRANCE TO PALACE. PAGE 20] - -Korean women as a rule are not beautiful. I, who love them as much as -any one ever did, who look upon them as my own sisters, must confess -this. Sorrow, hopelessness, hard labor, sickness, lovelessness, -ignorance, often, too often, shame, have dulled their eyes, and -hardened and scarred their faces, so that one looks in vain for a -semblance of beauty among women over twenty-five years of age. Among -the little maids and young wives (saixies), who do not yet show the -effects of the heavy hand of care and toil, one often finds a sweet -bright gentle face that is pretty, winning, and very rarely even -beautiful. But these poor palace women come not under that class; -hardened, coarse and vulgar, their appearance only calls forth -compassion. I found to my surprise that they were all smokers, and -they were equally surprised that I would not accept their invitation -to join them in this indulgence. They examined my dress and belongings -with childish curiosity, and deluged me with questions as to my age, -why I had never married, whether I had children, and why not, and other -things equally impertinent and hard to answer; but were after all good -natured, friendly and well meaning. - -This was my first introduction to Korean officialdom, and following -this within a very short time came another, in the form of a luncheon -and acrobatic entertainment given for me by the President of the -Foreign Office, Kim Yun Sik. This invitation came for the following -Sunday--and troubled me, because I was afraid the official (who -was quite ignorant of our customs and was offering me a flattering -evidence of courtesy and good will) would be hurt by my refusal to -accept an invitation for that day, and would very likely misunderstand -it. However, there was nothing else to be done, and with suitable -explanations, I announced my extreme regret at being obliged to refuse -his kindness. - -With great good feeling, he then changed the day, and I was given -_carte blanche_ to invite my friends, and of course asked the ladies -of the Methodist mission, as well as our own. Several Korean gentlemen -of high rank, including those in connection with the hospital, and -others, had also been invited by my host. The table, for in deference -to our foreign custom, one long table, instead of a number of small -ones, had been arranged--was piled high with Korean dainties. -Chicken, pheasant and other cold meats, fish, eggs, nuts and fruits -prepared in many fanciful ways, Chinese preserved fruits and candies, -a gutta-percha-like delicacy called “dock,” made of rice and oil -pounded well together, an alcoholic native beverage called sül, and -champagne and cigars. It is needless to say that we Americans did not -partake of these latter additions to the _menu_. A vast crowd from -the streets poured into the large courtyard, to see the acrobats, -who were a strolling band hired for the occasion. Their performance -consisted chiefly in tight-rope walking and tumbling, and was in no -way remarkable. It lasted, however, nearly three hours, during all of -which time we listened to the monotonous whining of the Korean band, -more like a Scotch bagpipe (dear cousins, forgive) than anything else -I know of; and learned the Korean verb “anchera” (sit down), which I -heard that day repeated a thousand times, in all its moods, tenses and -case endings, in tones of exasperation to the irrepressible Korean boy, -who _would_ stand up to see, just for all the world like some boys of -whiter skin, nearer home. - -Just before this, Mr. Underwood and Mr. Appenzeller had started on a -long itinerating trip toward the north, the second Mr. Underwood had -undertaken. While they were absent the wrath of the Korean king and -cabinet against the Romanists reached the boiling point, and culminated -in a decree forbidding the further teaching of foreign religions in the -ports. The country was not open to us (as it is not to-day, except by -special passports). The Romanists, with their well-known love of chief -seats and high places, failing to profit by their former experiences -of trouble from similar causes in China, insisted upon choosing as -the site for their future cathedral one of the highest points in the -city, overlooking the palace, and adjoining the temple holding royal -ancestral tablets. The property had been obtained unknown to the king, -through the medium of Korean agents, and though he used his utmost -endeavors, both with the priests and with the French legation, to -induce them to change this for any other site, they remained obdurate, -utterly refused to yield, and proceeded to lay the foundation of -their church. The decree immediately followed, and the American -minister advised, nay ordered, us to recall our missionaries, who most -unwillingly returned. There were, indeed, those who asserted that this -early attempt to carry the Gospel into the interior had been, at least -in part, the cause of the obnoxious decree, which made it look as if -our work was, for a time at least, at an end. That this was not so was -proved by the fact that Mr. Underwood had hardly returned ere he was -waited upon by a committee consisting of high Korean nobles and members -of the cabinet, offering him the entire charge of their government -school, with a generous salary, and with the full understanding that -he would not hesitate to teach Christianity to the pupils. - -This offer, displaying the great confidence, instead of the displeasure -and suspicion which foreigners assured us was the feeling of the -Koreans toward our evangelistic workers, was taken into serious -consideration, but was finally refused on account of its interference -with other work, and for other reasons equally important. - -It remained to us all to decide upon our course of conduct with regard -to the prohibitory decree. Some of our number--the majority--argued, -that as it was the law of the land, nothing remained for Christian -law-abiding people but to obey it, to stop holding even morning prayers -in our schools, to hold no religious services with Koreans, but to -wait and pray, until God should move the king’s heart, and have the -decree rescinded. By this course they believed we should win favor with -the authorities, while defiance or disobedience might cause our whole -mission to be expelled from the country. - -A small minority, however, Mr. Appenzeller, now with the Lord, his -wife, Mr. Underwood and myself, held that the decree had never been -issued against us or our work, and that even if it had, we were under -higher orders than that of a Korean king. Our duty was to preach and -take the consequences, resting for authority on the word of God, spoken -through Peter, in Acts, 4:19, to the rulers who forbade the apostles to -preach, “_Whether it be right in the sight of God, to hearken unto you, -more than unto God, judge ye, for we cannot but speak the things which -we have seen and heard._” Others might stop, as they did, with sorrow, -conscientiously believing that to be the best course; we continued to -teach and preach, in public and private, singing hymns, which could -be heard far and near, in the little meeting-house. No attempt was -ever made in any way to hinder us. Christians and other attendants on -services came and went unmolested. Christianity has grown much since -then, and is acknowledged as a factor in the politics of more than one -province. No one ever thinks now of disguising or in any way concealing -our work, yet _that law has never to this day been rescinded_. This is -exactly in accord with Eastern customs. Laws become a dead letter, and -pass into disuse; they are not often annulled. - -Another event of interest, which occurred during these first months -after my arrival in Korea, was the excitement culminating in what were -called “the baby riots.” Similar troubles in Tientsin, China, had some -years previously resulted in the massacre of a number of foreigners, -including Jesuit priests, nuns and two or three French officials. - -Some person or persons, with malicious intent, started a rumor which -spread like wild-fire, that foreigners were paying wicked Koreans to -steal native children, in order to cut out their hearts and eyes, to -be used for medicine. This crime was imputed chiefly to the Japanese, -and it was supposed the story had been originated by Chinese or others -especially inimical to the large numbers of Japanese residents in -the capital. Mr. Underwood acquainted the Japanese minister with the -rumors, in order that he might protect himself and his people; which he -promptly did by issuing, and causing to be issued by the government, -proclamations entirely clearing his countrymen of all blame in the -matter, which it was left to be understood was an acknowledged fact, -and consequently the work of other “vile foreigners,” namely, ourselves -and the Europeans. The excitement and fury grew hourly. Large crowds of -angry people congregated, scowling, muttering, and threatening. Koreans -carrying their own children were attacked, beaten, and even killed, -on the supposition that they were kidnapping the children of others; -and a high Korean official, who tried to protect one of these men, was -pulled from his chair, and narrowly escaped with his life, although he -was surrounded by a crowd of retainers and servants. It was considered -unsafe for foreigners to be seen in the street. Marines were called up -from Chemulpo to guard the different legations, and some Americans even -packed away their most necessary clothing and valuables, preparatory -to fleeing to the port. The wildest stories were told. Babies, it was -said, had been eaten at the German, English, and American legations, -and the hospital, of course, was considered by all the headquarters of -this bloodthirsty work, for there, where medicine was manufactured and -diseases treated, the babies must certainly be butchered. - -One day, when returning from my clinic, my chair was surrounded by -rough-looking men, who told my bearers that they should all be killed -if they carried me to the hospital again; and such was the terror -inspired, that these men positively refused to take me thither the -following day. So I rode on horseback through the city to the hospital, -Mr. Underwood, who also had duties at the hospital school, acting as -my escort. We went and returned quite unmolested, and it has been -my experience then and later, that a bold front and appearance of -fearlessness and unconcern in moments of danger impress Asiatics, and -act as a great safeguard for the foreigner. - -In the meanwhile, however, the European foreign representatives -had awakened to the fact that a very real danger threatened our -little community, and might ripen at any moment into destruction. -Proclamations from the Foreign Office were posted everywhere, but the -earliest of these were mistakenly worded, leaving the impression -still that possibly some “vile foreigner” had instituted these awful -deeds, and that should he be discovered sore punishment would follow. -At last, however, a notice appeared, written at the dictation of these -same “vile foreigners,” in which it was positively stated that not only -had no such thing been done by any foreigners, but that should any one -be caught uttering these slanders, he would be at once arrested, and -unless able to prove the truth of his tales, be punished with death. -Detectives and police officers were scattered everywhere through the -city, people were forbidden to stand in groups of twos and threes, a -few arrests were made, and the riots were at an end. - -[Illustration: KOREAN OFFICIAL IN CHAIR. PAGE 16] - -Before calm was restored, however, we had some uncertain, not to say -uneasy, hours. On the evening of the day when the excitement had been -at its highest, we received word from the American legation that should -there be evidence that the mob were intending to attack our homes, a -gun would be fired in the legation grounds as a signal, and we were -then to hasten thither for mutual safety and defense. - -It was a calm starlit July night. We sat in the little porch leading -into our compound, enjoying the cool evening air, when suddenly a -terrific illumination of blazing buildings lit up the horizon, and -a fearful hubbub of a shouting, yelling mob assailed our ears. With -beating hearts we watched and listened. Some one said Korean mobs -always began by burning houses, and while we waited, wondering what it -all meant, the air was rent by the sharp, quick report of a gun from -the American legation. - -This seemed to leave no doubt as to the real state of affairs, and Mr. -Underwood and Mr. Hulbert at once repaired to the legation to make sure -that there was no mistake, but soon returned, with the welcome news, -that the firing of the gun had been accidental. The burning buildings -also proved to have been only a coincidence, and the noise nothing more -than common with a Korean crowd round a fire. In a way that still seems -to be miraculous, the raging of the heathen was quieted, God was round -about us, the danger that looked inevitable passed away, and all was -calm. - -Not long after this came the first request from the palace for me to -attend on the queen, to which I responded not without some anxiety, -lest through some unlooked-for occurrence some misstep on my part, -the work of our mission so auspiciously begun should be hindered or -stopped. As yet somewhat uncertain of our foothold, ignorant to a -large extent of the people with whom we had to deal, we trembled lest -some inadvertence might close the door, only so lately and unwillingly -opened. I had been told I must always go in full court dress, but -when I came to open the boxes, which contained the gowns prepared -for this purpose, I found that both had been ruined in crossing the -Pacific and could not be worn. Alas! how inauspicious to be obliged to -appear before royalty in unsuitable attire, which might be attributed -to disrespect! But a far more serious trouble than this weighed upon -my mind as my chair coolies jogged me along the winding streets and -alleys to the palace grounds. I had been strictly warned not to say -anything to the queen on the subject of religion. “We are only here on -sufferance,” it was urged, “and even though our teaching the common -people may be overlooked and winked at, if it is brought before the -authorities so openly and boldly, as it would be to introduce it into -the palace, even our warmest friends might feel obliged to utterly -forbid further access to the royal family, if not to banish us -altogether from the country.” “Wait,” it was said, “until our footing -is more assured; do not risk all through impatience.” - -I saw the logic of these words, though my heart talked hotly in a very -different way; but I went to the palace with my mouth sealed on the one -subject I had come to proclaim. - - - - -CHAPTER II - - The Palaces--The Stone Dogs--The Fire God’s Defeat--The - Summer Pleasure House--Royal Reception Hall--Court Dress of - Noblemen--First Impression of the King--Appearance of the - Queen--The Queen’s Troubles--The Queen’s Coup d’état--The - Verb Endings--The Queen’s Generosity--Stone Fight--Gifts--The - Quaga--Poukhan--Its Impregnability--Picturesque Surroundings - of Seoul--Pioneer Work--Progress of Work--The Queen’s Wedding - Gift--Our Wedding--Opposition to my Going to the Interior--My - Chair--The Chair Coolies. - - -The palaces, of which there were at that time three, and are now four, -within the city walls, consist of several groups of one-story bungalow -buildings, within large grounds or parks, which are surrounded by fine -stone walls, twelve or fifteen feet high, of considerable thickness. -Within these in closures were barracks for soldiers, and quarters for -under-officials and servants. A special group of houses stood separated -from the others for women’s apartments, and here might be seen the -aged and rather infirm dowager queen, who died about a year after my -arrival. The main gates in the walls of the palace I was about to visit -are three, facing on the great main thoroughfare of the city. The -central one, larger than the others, was used only for royalty; even -ministers of foreign states are expected to enter by one of the two -smaller ones on either side. - -The fact that on one occasion the central gate had by special royal -order been thrown open for the American minister is an illustration of -the kindness and favor always shown to our representatives. These -entrances are approached by broad, stone steps and a platform with -handsome, carved stone balustrade, which is surmounted as well as the -lofty gates by crudely chiseled stone images of various mythological -animals. Some ten or more paces in front of these steps, and on either -side, are the great stone dogs, so called for want of a better name, -for they no more resemble dogs than lions. The story of their origin -is as follows: The fire god, it was said, had a special enmity against -this palace, and repeatedly burned it down; various efforts had been -made to propitiate or intimidate him with little success; at length an -expensive dragon was brought from China and placed in a moat in the -grounds. While he lived all was well, but one ill-fated day an enemy -poisoned this faithful guardian, and that night the palace was again -burned. Finally some fertile brain devised these animals, no poison -could affect their stony digestion, no fear or cajoling could impress -their hard hearts; so there they stand on their tall pedestals--fierce -and uncompromising, facing the quarter whence the fire god comes, -always on guard, never sleeping in their faithful watch, and, as -might be expected, he has never been able to burn the buildings thus -protected. - -[Illustration: KOREAN STONE DOG IN FRONT OF PALACE GATES. PAGE 21] - -I was conducted, however, through neither of these three main gates, -but as a very strict rule was then in existence that no chair coolies -should be allowed within the palace walls, my chair was carried to -a small gate, much nearer the royal apartments, so that we should -not be obliged to walk so far. Mrs. Bunker and Dr. Heron accompanied -me, and we were met by gentlemanly Korean officials, and taken to a -little waiting room, furnished with European chairs, and a table, -upon which were little cakes, cigars and champagne, all of which were -offered to us ladies, though after a better acquaintance with us, -tea was substituted in place of the tobacco and wine. It would take -far too long to describe all that engaged my eager interest as we -walked through the palace grounds. A beautiful and interesting summer -pleasure house--perhaps one of the most unique and remarkable in the -world--stands in the center of a large lotus pond. It has an upper -story and roof supported on forty-eight monoliths, the outer row being -about four feet square at the base; the inner columns are rounded, of -about the same diameter, and sixteen or eighteen feet high; the upper -story is of wood, elaborately carved, and brightly decorated; most -of these buildings are covered with a beautiful green glazed tile, -peculiar to royal edifices. - -There were many other interesting buildings, among which the royal -reception hall was probably the finest. We saw a great number of -officials, eunuchs, chusas, noblemen and soldiers, each kind and grade -wearing a different attire from all the others. - -The dress of the common soldiers was intended to be an imitation of -European military costume adapted to the ideas of the Koreans. The -result was a hybrid which had neither the dignity nor the usefulness of -the one or the other. It consisted of a loose blouse jacket, and badly -fitting, baggy trousers, made of thin black cotton cloth, with scarlet -trimmings. The jacket was belted in, and a black felt hat surmounted -the top-knot, and was fastened insecurely beneath the chin by a narrow -band. This unbecoming uniform has now been changed, and the Emperor’s -soldiers are as well dressed as those of any European nation. - -Korean noblemen when in attendance at the palace wear a dark blue coat, -with a belt which is far too large and forms a sort of hoop in front -of the person. An embroidered breastplate is worn over the chest, -representing a stork for civil office and a tiger for military rank. -The head-dress is a kind of hat woven of horsehair, with wings at -either side, curved forward, as it were in order to catch every word -uttered by royalty. Nobles and officials wear on the hat band, just -back of the ears, buttons of various styles made of gold or jade, which -indicate the degree of the wearer’s rank. - -When the royal family were ready to see us, Mrs. Bunker and I were -conducted through the grounds a short distance, passed through several -gateways, and at length stood at the entrance of an anteroom half -filled with nobles, eunuchs and palace women, beyond which, in a very -small inner room, were the king and queen, and their son, a youth about -sixteen years of age. We passed forward to the audience-room, bowing -frequently and very low to the smiling party of three who awaited us. - -Never before had I, an American--a descendant of colonial ancestors who -had cast off the shackles of tyranny--bowed so low. Never had I thought -to feel as I felt when first entering the presence of a real live king -and queen. The royal family had most graciously risen to greet us, -and at once invited us to be seated. At that time, at least, Korean -nobles never entered the royal presence without prostrating themselves -to the ground, and such a piece of presumption as sitting was never -dreamed of; so we refused the offered chairs, having been especially -warned that not to do so might awaken jealousy and make enemies to -the cause of Christianity. The point, however, was insisted upon to -such an extent that we could no longer with politeness refuse, and so -we found ourselves sitting face to face in a chatty sort of way, in a -little eight by ten room, with the king and queen of Korea. The king -impressed me at that and every subsequent meeting as a fine-looking -genial gentleman. He was attired in a long touramachi, or coat of rich -red silk (the royal color), with a cap or head-dress like those worn -by the noblemen, except that the wings turned back rather than forward -like theirs. - -The queen, of course, excited my deepest interest. Slightly pale and -quite thin, with somewhat sharp features and brilliant piercing eyes, -she did not strike me at first sight as being beautiful, but no one -could help reading force, intellect and strength of character in that -face, and as she became engaged in conversation, vivacity, naïveté, -wit, all brightened her countenance, and gave it a wonderful charm, far -greater than mere physical beauty; and I have seen the queen of Korea -when she looked positively beautiful. - -She possessed mental qualities of a high order, as I soon learned, -and although, like all Asiatics, her learning consisted chiefly in -the Chinese classics, she possessed a very intelligent idea of the -great nations of the world and their governments, for she asked many -questions, and remembered what she heard. She was a subtle and able -diplomatist and usually outwitted her keenest opponents; she was, -moreover, a sovereign of broad and progressive policy, patriotic, -and devoted to the best interests of her country and sought the good -of the people to a much larger extent than would be expected of an -Oriental queen. In addition, she possessed a warm heart, a tender love -for little children, a delicacy and consideration in her relations, -at least with us missionaries, which would have done honor to any -European lady of high rank. The queen, though a Korean who had never -seen the society of a foreign court, was a perfect lady. It was with -surprise that I learned that as much difference exists in Korea between -the people of high birth and breeding and the common coolie as is -found between the European gentleman and the day laborer. Their -majesties kindly inquired about my trip to Korea, my present comfort, -and my friends and family in America, showing the kindest interest -in what concerned me most. The conversation was carried on through -an interpreter, who stood behind a tall screen, his body bent nearly -double in reverence, never raising his eyes. - -[Illustration: THE KING OF KOREA. PAGE 23] - -I learned later that Korean doctors, always men, who had treated -the queen, felt (?) her pulse by using a cord, one end of which was -fastened about her wrist, and the other carried into the next room -was held in the doctor’s fingers. The royal tongue, I was told, was -protruded through a slit in a screen for the physician’s observation. -I found the queen’s trouble nothing more serious than a small furuncle -which needed lancing; but as the mere suggestion of approaching her -sacred person with any sort of surgical instrument was looked upon -with unspeakable horror and indignation by all who surrounded her, and -was flatly forbidden by the king, patience and slower measures were -necessarily resorted to. - -It was hardly to be wondered at that all the queen’s friends were so -over-cautious and fearful for her safety. She had suffered long and -malignant persecution at the hands of a cruel father-in-law, whose -wicked ambitious schemes and greed of power she had balked, and nothing -that a fertile brain and hate combined with wealth and influence could -contrive was left undone to bring about the ruin of this unhappy -lady. Slander, assassins, insurrection, fire, conspiracy with hostile -nations--were all resorted to; many and thrilling were her hairbreadth -escapes. Once disguised and carried on the back of a faithful retainer, -she was taken from one end of the city to the other, and once in a -common native woman’s chair she was borne to a place of concealment -and safety. Nearly her whole immediate family were destroyed at one -fell blow, by means of an infernal machine cunningly devised, sent as -a present of great value from a supposed hermit, to be opened only in -the presence of every member of the family. Through some fortunate -circumstance the queen was detained away, but all present were -instantly killed and horribly mutilated. To understand the reason for -this ferocious enmity, one needs to know a little of the royal history. - -The present king was the adopted son of a former childless king. His -widow appointed the present king’s father to act as regent until -the majority of his son. The older man was greedy of power, keen -and crafty, and not inclined to hand over the reins of government; -he therefore selected a wife for his son from a family of his near -friends, choosing a woman he supposed he could easily control; but he -was mistaken in her character and gifts. Years slipped by and time had -long been over-ripe for the king to assume the government, and yet the -“Tai-won-kun” gave no sign of relinquishing his clutch upon the reins -of power; but the king, gentle and submissive to his father, as all -Koreans are taught to be, was unwilling to force a resignation. One -morning, however, through a _coup d’état_ of the queen, the old man -found himself displaced, and a new cabinet and set of advisers selected -from the friends and cousins of the queen. His rage knew no bounds, -and from that time forth he planned her destruction. How he finally -succeeded in carrying out his malicious intentions must be related -later. Thus far, the queen, equally shrewd and fortunate, had escaped -his toils. - -To return to our palace visit, however. After examining into her -majesty’s trouble, and prescribing a course of treatment, we took our -leave, backing and bowing ourselves out of the royal apartments as if -we had been born and bred hangers-on of courts. I soon learned that -all my verbs must wear a long train of “_simnaitas_,” “_simnikas_,” -and “_sipsios_,” the highest honorific endings when visiting the -palace. Each Korean verb has a generous collection of these endings, -from which the confused and unwary stranger must select at his peril, -when addressing natives of different ranks; but there is no doubt, -fortunately, about what must be used at the palace, and one feels quite -safe if every verb is tipped with a “_simnaita_” or “_simnika_.” To be -sure, there are high Chinese-derived words, which natives always use -there, instead of the simpler Anglo-Saxon--I should say, Korean--but -uninitiated foreigners are not expected to know them, and are really -most generously excused for all mistakes. Koreans are in this respect -models of kindness and politeness, and will often hear newcomers make -the most laughable and absurd mistakes without a single spasm of -countenance to show that they have taken note of the blunder. - -Not many days after this visit to the palace, an official appeared -at my home with a number of interesting and beautiful gifts from the -queen, including a fine embroidered screen, embroidered pillow, and bed -cushions, native silks, linens, cotton materials, fans, pockets and -various other articles. - -Her majesty was extremely generous, and it was nothing unusual for her -thus to bestow in most munificent fashion gifts upon the members of our -mission whom she had met, and upon the ladies of the legations. Every -Korean New Year’s day any of us who were in the slightest way connected -with the palace or government institutions received many pheasants, -bags of nuts, pounds of beef, large fish, hundreds of eggs and pounds -of dried persimmons. - -On the royal birthdays, too, dainties were sent to us, and at the -beginning of each summer dozens of fans and jars of honey water were -presented. This open-handed generosity indicated not only the queen’s -kind disposition, but the favor with which all Americans were regarded -by the Korean authorities, due largely to the favorable impression -which Dr. Allen had made, and also perhaps to the fact that we belonged -to a large and powerful nation, which had no object in interfering in -Eastern politics in any way to the detriment of Korea, and which might -become an efficient ally and defender. - -During my first year I had the exciting and doubtful privilege of -being present at a native sectional or stone fight, an experience -which few covet even once--and which the wise and informed, at least -of womankind, invariably forego. Once a year at a certain season, -where two neighborhoods or sections have grievances against each -other, they settle them by one of these fights. They choose captains, -arrange the opposing parties, and begin firing stones and tiles at -each other. As one crowd or the other is by turns victorious, and the -pursued flee before their enemies, and as those who are at one moment -triumphant are often the very next the vanquished, hotly chased, it -is almost impossible to find any safe point of vantage from which to -view the conflict. At any instant the place one has chosen, as well -removed and safe, may become the ground of the hottest battle. Very -large stones are often thrown, and people are fatally injured, though -not as frequently as one would think. It is a wonder that hundreds -are not killed or wounded. In going from my home to visit a friend -one day, a few weeks after my arrival, I was obliged to pass a large -crowd of men, who seemed divided into two parties, and were very noisy -and vociferous. I remarked upon this to my friend, and sending to -inquire, we found it was the preliminaries of a stone fight which I -had witnessed. Her husband said it would not be safe for me to return -alone, and therefore to my lasting gratitude offered to see me through -it. - -We soon found that the stones and missiles were coming our way, and -were forced to run for shelter to a Korean house. For a few moments -the fight was hot around us, and then as it seemed to have passed -on--quite far down the street--we ventured forth, only to find that -the tide had again turned, and the whole mob were tearing in our -direction. Mr. Bunker, for it was he, said there was nothing for it but -to scale a half-broken wall into an adjacent compound, and run for it -to the house of Mr. Gilmore, not far distant. So, reckless of my best -gown, I scaled the wall with great alacrity, and we ran for it quite -shamelessly. Missiles of considerable size were raining around us, -and the possibility, or rather probability, that one would soon light -on our heads, accelerated our speed to no small degree. These affairs -are often funny in retrospect, but smack strongly of the tragic at the -time, while the outcome is so decidedly uncertain. However, by much -dodging and circling, frequently sheltering ourselves under the wall, -we at length reached Mr. Gilmore’s house, when, in a somewhat ruffled -and perturbed condition, I waited till the coast was quite clear and -found my way home, a wiser and deeply thoughtful woman. - -On one occasion not long since an affair of this kind threatened very -serious results for a hot-headed young compatriot of ours, who went to -photograph one of these fights. A cool-headed American recently snapped -his camera on a tiger here before shooting it, and it may have been -in emulation of him, that our young friend made this attempt. He soon -became convinced that he was the object at which all the missiles were -sent, and that the bloodthirsty ruffians were all seeking his life. -Being unfortunately as well as unlawfully armed with a six-shooter, -over-excited and alarmed, he fired into the crowd and fled. His -bullet entered the fleshy part of the leg of one of the natives, who -fell, as most of them supposed, mortally wounded; and now indeed the -wrath of the crowd on both sides was directed at its hottest against -the thoroughly frightened young man. He ran for his life--the crowd -pursuing with yells of fury. Camera and overcoat were flung away--he -had nearly a mile to go to reach shelter in the American legation, -which he at length managed to do, panting and almost exhausted. As his -victim was not seriously hurt, he escaped with the payment of a fine, a -few weeks’ imprisonment, a most severe reprimand, and a polite request -to leave the country. - -The Koreans often evince considerable military skill in the tactics -of these civil battles. Sharpshooters armed with slings will take -possession of some high point, and others are sent to take them by -surprise and dislodge them, suddenly creeping upon them from the rear, -or scaling the rampart in the face of the enemy’s fire. These natives -repeatedly prove themselves good fighters and no cowards, when armed -and facing not too unequal numbers. - -During this my first summer in Korea I was invited to attend a royal -Quaga. This was a very interesting assemblage of Korean scholars, who -met in the palace grounds, and there in little tents or booths wrote -theses in Chinese on some subject given by the king. Those whose -papers passed a successful examination were rewarded with some civil -rank, supposed to be proportioned to the excellence of their standing. -I should think that more than a thousand men from all parts of the -country were gathered in these grounds, busily writing or copying -their papers, some of which were then being handed to the judges. - -I was told, however, that in nearly all the successful cases money was -necessary to aid the judgment and clarify the minds of the judges. We -were treated with great kindness, invited to a fine pavilion, and later -offered refreshments in the royal dining hall. This old-time (shall I -say, dishonored) institution has now fallen into disuse for some years. -No doubt in its honest beginnings a truly competitive examination for -office, it was good and useful, but abuses creeping in, rendered it an -empty form to be finally abolished as a useless and effete remnant of -ancient days. - -Another event of the summer was a little trip made to Poukhan, or the -northern fortress, about ten miles distant from Seoul. It is said by -Koreans that a secret underground road leads from it to the palace in -Seoul, so that in case of any danger, or the investment of the city by -enemies, the royal family could flee hither for safety. It is in truth -an ideal spot for such a purpose. European soldiers have said that -properly fortified it would be for months, perhaps years, impregnable. -Our visit was made in Korea’s loveliest season, the month of May, which -is, if possible, more beautiful than in any other land. Wild flowers of -the most exquisite hue and odor abound everywhere, but at Poukhan they -seemed to be in greater quantities and lovelier colors. The mountain -rises bold and rugged in outline, and its scenery is wild and in places -almost forbidding, but a beautiful brook dashes down its sides, leaping -over huge boulders and turning everything into luxuriant beauty, like -the lovely maids of fairy lore, in whose footsteps the sweetest flowers -sprang and from whose lips dropped fairest gems. - -This brook flows from a spring which bubbles up in the top of the -mountain, so that any garrison stationed there need never surrender for -want of water, nor indeed of food, for after a steep ascent of about a -mile, the path suddenly pierces the rocks, and entering a picturesque -gate in a more picturesque wall, all hung with ivy, dips into a verdant -valley surrounded on all sides by lofty barriers of rock. Here are -fertile fields where food can easily be raised and stored against an -evil time. - -Some of our missionaries often come here, and spend the hot and -unhealthy summer weeks among the cool shades of these lofty rocks--in -some of the Buddhist temples. There are some delightful little -pavilions, near clear, cool pools of water, with scenery on all sides -very wild, beautiful, and picturesque. - -At that time, in the history of our mission nearly every foreigner -possessed a horse, most of them Chinese ponies, very gentle and easy -to ride. Utterly unacquainted with the nature of the people, it was -feared by many that danger might suddenly arise, and that we ought to -have means of escape at hand. We found them very useful and pleasant -accessories, and often when the hot afternoon sun was low we explored -some of the pretty and interesting surroundings of Seoul. - -This city lies encircled by low mountains, whose treeless and bare -outlines cut the blue horizon with a bold abruptness. Among the hills -and mountain passes are pretty woods and groves--and here lies nestled -many a little hamlet, entered through some charming lane, bordered -with blossoming bushes of clematis, eglantine, hawthorn or syringa, -in richest profusion. Mr. Underwood was often my guide on these -excursions; sometimes we walked on the city wall, and saw the distant -mountains and the sleeping villages beneath us, bathed in glorious -moonlight, and thanked God for casting our lives in a land of so -much beauty and among a people so kindly and teachable. - -[Illustration: THE GREAT MARKET AT CHEENJU] - -[Illustration: SURROUNDINGS OF SEOUL. PAGE 32] - -During all these months and the following winter foundations were still -busily laying, language helps and Bible translations were under way, -and through hospital and school, as well as by direct evangelistic -effort, people were being reached. The number of attendants upon the -services in the little chapel was daily increasing, and reports came -from the natives working in the country of inquirers and converts -there, which made it seem necessary to make another extended trip as -soon as possible. A second trip had already been made by Mr. Underwood, -selling books and simple medicines, and gathering in here and there -a little handful of converts. He met with great encouragement, but -baptized few. During his first trip he traveled to the northern border -of Korea, stopping in all the large towns, Songdo, Anju, Pyeng Yang, -Kangai, Haiju, Ouiju. During the entire year less than twenty-five were -baptized, and from the first altogether up to that time hardly fifty, -while Methodists and Presbyterians together up to 1889 numbered only -a little over one hundred. In April of 1888 he baptized seven men at -Sorai, a village in Whang Hai, where the Gospel had been brought in -from China by a Mr. Saw Sang Hyen, a convert of Mr. Ross’. Some of -these men had come to the capital in the spring of 1887 and three had -been baptized after careful examination. - -The seven who were received in their own village had been for more than -a year in preparation, and then were baptized only after Mr. Underwood -had spent ten days in their village, talking with and examining them. -This is mentioned to show that extreme caution was used in making the -first admissions to the native church, in order that its foundations -might be laid securely, if slowly. In the trip made in November, 1888, -certain Koreans had been placed in a few localities to instruct, sell -tracts and pave the way for the work of the foreigner on a succeeding -visit. One of these men was stationed at Pyeng Yang, one at Chang Yun, -and one at Ouiju. Extremely encouraging, but in some cases exaggerated -reports came from all these places as to the increasing number of -hopeful inquirers, and it seemed imperative that a trip should be -taken as soon as spring opened, for the examination, encouragement and -instruction of these new believers, and to oversee the work of the -employed agents, who were necessarily unproved as yet. - -Mr. Underwood and I had been engaged since the early fall, and we had -arranged to be married, and to start for the country on the fourteenth -of March. The whole foreign community seemed to vie with each other in -tokens of kindness and good will towards us on that occasion. - -On the morning of the eventful day, the jingling bells of many -pack-ponies was heard in our courtyard, and I soon discovered that -quite a train of the little animals had arrived with the gift of her -majesty. One million cash! It sounds like “Arabian Nights,” but as at -that time 2,500 to 3,000 cash went to the making of the dollar, it -was not, after all, more than a generous Korean queen might easily -give, or a missionary easily dispose of. Their majesties arranged for -several people from the palace to be present at the ceremony, the army -was represented by General Han Ku Sul, a nobleman of the highest rank, -and the cabinet by Min Yeng Whan, a near relative of the queen, and in -highest favor with their majesties. - -A number of palace women were also present, behind screens, and of -course some of the native Christians. The whole foreign community gave -us their good wishes, and cable messages were put in our hands just -after the ceremony, from each of our respective homes in America. - -Early on the morning of the 14th of March, 1889, we set out on our -wedding trip. - -Everything except force had been resorted to by missionaries and -foreigners residing in Seoul to prevent my taking this journey. No -European woman had, as yet, ever traveled in the interior of Korea, -and not more than four or five men had ever ventured ten miles outside -the walls, except to the port. Tigers and leopards were known to exist -in the mountains; the character of the natives was not well understood -by most people; contagion in the inns, the rudeness of mobs, the -difficulty of obtaining good water, no means of speedy communication -with Seoul, the necessity at times of long marches, were all possible -dangers, but were greatly overestimated. It was freely and frequently -predicted, that if I came back at all, it would be in my coffin, -and my poor husband fell under the heaviest of public censure for -consenting to take me. As he had made two trips and saw no difficulty, -I felt I could trust his judgment, and as country work was exactly -what I had longed to do, and what had been my ideal from the first, -I looked forward with the greatest pleasure to a journey through a -lovely country, to be filled with blessed service; it seemed to me no -honeymoon so rich in delight could ever have been planned before. - -It was arranged that I should go in a native chair, which consisted of -a sort of box frame, high enough for me to sit in Turkish fashion; it -had a roof of bamboo covered with paper oiled and painted, the sides -were closed in with blue muslin, and there were little windows of -stained glass on either side. A curtain in the front could be raised or -buttoned down to keep out the chill or the disagreeable piercing eyes -of the curious sightseers or _kugungers_, as they are called in Korea. -My conveyance was made more comfortable by cushions beneath and behind -my seat, a shawl was draped around the inside to keep out draughts, and -with a hot-water bottle and foot-muff at my feet, I felt positively -steeped in luxury, and quite too much babyfied for a hardy missionary. - -I was carried by a couple of strong chair coolies, the poles on which -the chair was placed resting in straps, which hung from the shoulders -of the carriers, so that its main weight came on them, rather than on -the hands, which grasped the poles. There were four bearers, two who -carried, and two who, by placing a strong rod under the chair, lifted -its weight from the tired shoulders, for half a minute or so, once -every ten minutes. At the end of every three miles these lifting men -and the others changed places, and so we easily made thirty miles or -more every day, without much fatigue on the part of these hardy men, -whose profession this had been for years. - -I’m afraid they were a very rough set of customers, and undoubtedly -got us into trouble on more than one occasion. They were full of fun -and spirits, and told long and fishy yarns, to the country folks, and -occasionally played off practical jokes on these simple swains, to -beguile the tedium of the road. They aroused the awe and admiration of -the natives in the country villages, by telling them what wonderful -things we carried in our packs. There was nothing, according to them, -that we could not do, or had not got. “Why, even a boat,” said they, -“is in that trunk. It folds up very small, but one blows into it, -and it gradually grows hard and large, and lo! a boat.” Thus was -magnified our rubber bath tub. That we finished our trip with so little -difficulty with such companions speaks well for the gentle good nature -of the natives. - -[Illustration: A STREET CROWD. PAGE 35] - -Of course, I walked as much as possible, but many weary miles must be -endured in the chair, with its tiresome jogging, interrupted regularly -with an upward jolt of several inches. The ordinary road soon came -to be quite tolerable, but when the bearers in the half light of -early dawn (or worse still, the evening, when tired with a long day’s -march) picked their way over the narrow foot-paths, slippery with -clay, between half-submerged rice fields, or jumped across intervening -ditches, the rear man going wholly by faith, I must say it was not easy -or pleasant. - -We had quite a little train. Mr. Underwood was on his horse, with a -_mapoo_ to lead and care for it. These horses are all fed on a hot -food of beans and chopped hay, and very carefully attended to. We had -two or three pack-ponies which carried medicines, tracts, at that -time mostly Chinese, which only scholars could read, our blankets and -bedding, a few cooking utensils, and foreign food and our clothing. -The question of money and changes of horses was a difficult one, but -it had been solved by an order from the Korean Foreign Office, to the -country magistrates, to accept our receipt for any amount of money that -we might need, and also for horses in exchange for ours, all of which -bills we were to pay in Seoul on our return. The money was so extremely -bulky, it was impossible to take more than a couple of days’ supply on -our ponies. On previous trips Mr. Underwood had carried large lumps of -silver, which were exchanged in the towns for cash. - -The little inns along the road never charge for rooms; the number of -tables of rice and the number of horses fed are usually the only items -in the landlord’s bill. In addition to chair coolies and mapoos, we had -a young Christian helper, a cook, and a kesu. The two latter left us at -Pyeng Yang and returned home. - - - - -CHAPTER III - - We Start on our Wedding Journey--Songdo--Guards at our - Gates--Crossing the Tai-tong--Difficulties in Finding an - Inn--Korean Launderings--An Old Man Seeks to be Rid of Sin--Mob - at an Inn--A Ruffian Bursts Open my Door--Fight in the Inn - Yard--Pat Defies the Crowd--Convenience of Top-knots--A - Magistrate Refuses to Shelter Us--The “Captain” to the - Rescue--Pack-ponies--We Lay a Deep Scheme--Torch Bearers--A - Mountain Hamlet--Tiger Traps--Tigers--A Band of Thirty Conspire - to Attack Us--Guns Used by Native Hunters--A Tiger Story. - - -We started on our trip at early dawn, turning directly north, on the -road passing under the arch, which then marked the spot where the -representatives of Korea yearly met the Chinese ambassadors who came to -receive tribute. This custom was maintained until Korea’s independence -was declared; in honor of which the old arch was then taken down and a -finer one erected. Beyond this arch lay the pass, a narrow, muddy and -stony way, leading through the mountain. It was crowded with oxen and -pack-ponies, going to and from Seoul. Shouting mapoos and coolies added -to the confusion, great rocks seemed just ready to fall from above and -crush the unlucky passers, and many which had fallen from time to time -impeded the road. Now a fine road has been made across the hill, and -the old way of danger and discomfort is closed up. From its darkness, -its fiendish noises, gruesome odors and bad going it would not have -been an unfit image of Bunyan’s Valley of the Shadow of Death. The -snow still remained in sheltered places, for it was only March, and the -morning air was sharp and chill, but we found a very fine road all the -way to Songdo. - -We made our first halt at noon, at a small village between Seoul and -Songdo, and I had my first experience of a native inn. The Korean inn -is second only in filth, closeness, bad odors and discomfort to those -in the interior of China. There is usually only one room for women, -which has from one to four or five paper-covered doors or windows--they -are nearly always the same size and bear the same name--opening into -the kitchen, the court and the sarang. This room is often not more than -eight by ten or twelve feet large, and very low. The paper which covers -the door is commonly blackened with dirt, so that few indeed are the -rays of light which manage to struggle in a disheartened way into these -gloomy little apartments. They boast little or no furniture, perhaps a -chang or Korean cabinet (most unique and antique-looking chests, much -ornamented with brass or black iron hinges, locks, etc.) stands against -the wall, upon which are piled a great many bright-colored quilts and -pillows, not the wooden ones sometimes described and much used, but -like old-style long sofa pillows, and very much more comfortable. At -the center of the ceiling, just under the roof tree, may be seen a -bunch of dirty rags, feathers and sticks, where the household Lares and -Penates are supposed to roost. A wharrow or charcoal fire-pot with a -smouldering fire probably stands somewhere on the floor. This should -be promptly removed, as its presence often causes severe headache, -and sometimes asphyxia, from which one of the missionaries was only -resuscitated after repeated fainting and hours of effort on the part of -a companion. - -In most of the inns very picturesque tall brass or wooden lamp-stands -are seen. They consist of a rod about two and a half feet high, on -a good solid base with a little bracket at the top for a saucer of -castor oil, and an ox horn hanging below containing the main supply of -oil. The lamp or saucer contains a small wick which yields a very tiny -light, just enough to emphasize and make visible the darkness. Often -these lamps have a special niche, or little cupboard in the wall, where -they are enclosed during the day. Nearly always a stout bar crosses the -room about a foot from the wall, and three or four feet from the floor, -on which garments may be hung, and as commonly there is a wide shelf -running around two or three sides of the apartment, very near the roof, -on which are sundry household utensils, winter vegetables, very likely -piles of yeast cakes for the manufacture of beer, and, in fact, a -heterogeneous collection, too numerous and varied to mention. Here lies -a dusty old book, there a work basket, and further on the wooden block -and clubs used for ironing, a bottle of medicine, a pile of rice bowls, -or a box of matches. - -The mats which are placed over the oiled paper, or more likely directly -on the earth floor, are full of dust and vermin of all descriptions, -which run riot everywhere. It is best not to begin to think how many -people have, in that room and lying on these identical mats, been ill, -and died, of dysentery, small-pox, cholera or typhus fever, since the -room was even swept or the mats once shaken. A “really truly” cleaning -they are ignorant of. Fumigation and disinfection are as far beyond -the flights of their wildest imagination as the private life of the -man in the moon. The miracle over which we never cease to wonder and -admire is that so many people of clean antecedents who travel through -the interior are able to resist the microbes, bacteria, germs and all -similar enemies under whatsoever name which, according to all modern -science, ought to attack and destroy them in short order. - -In most of the inns, tall earthen jars, from two to three, or rarely -four feet high, and two or three feet in diameter, in which Ali Baba’s -cutthroat thieves could easily hide, are ranged along the side of the -wall, but more frequently in the courtyard. They contain various kinds -of grain, pickles, beer, wine, and there are always several holding -_kimchi_ (a sort of sauerkraut), without which they never eat rice. - -Numbers of dogs, cats, chickens, pigs and ducks are under foot in the -courtyard, oxen and ponies are noisily feeding in the stalls, under -the same roof with ourselves, only just outside the paper door, and if -one is to sleep it must be in spite of a combined grunting, squealing, -cackling, blowing and barking, anything but conducive to repose. Most -of the hotels have, as has been said, only one inner room, where it -is proper for a woman to stay. Our helper, chair-coolies, mapoos and -other travelers use the sarang, packed very likely like sardines in a -box, and the host’s family turn out, and go to a neighbor’s for the -night, unless the inn is a large one on the main road. A large and -fashionable inn in Korea would have perhaps five, or even six, sleeping -apartments--though I do not recollect having seen so many. - -Now we travel with cot-beds which roll up and slip into heavy canvas -bags, and take up very little room on the pack. These blessings keep -us off the dirty floors, which are usually much too hot for health, -unless, indeed, one has come in wet, cold, and aching from a long -tramp, when they are a specific preventive of colds and rheumatism. -On that first journey, however, we had nothing of this sort, but we -sent out for some bundles of fresh clean straw used for thatch--one -thing, at least, of which there is plenty in every village--and piled -them at least a foot high. We spread thereon our bed, to the confusion -and defeat of our little enemies, ploughing their weary way uselessly -through the mazes of that straw all night. In this way we slept -peacefully, except when the floor became intolerably hot, and our bed -correspondingly so, then we rose, piled our straw in another place, -remade our couch, and composed ourselves again to slumber. We never did -this more than three times in one night, and it was a mere diversion. - -The situation, however, develops into something quite beyond a joke, -as was hinted in a former chapter, when one is forced to travel in hot -weather. The rice and beans for men and animals must be cooked, which -means--in nine cases out of ten--that a fire must be built under your -room, and you must sleep on the stove, although the thermometer is -already in the seventies before it is kindled. The room, you remember, -is small and low, the windows opening to the court probably few. You -look longingly at the open porch or _maru_, but there are leopards and -tigers that prowl at night, or wanting these, no lack of rats, ferrets, -and snakes; there are foul smells and rank poisonous vapors, pools of -green water and sewage all about, a famous place in the damp night air -to soak a system full of malaria, more deadly than wild beasts; so with -a sigh you turn again to your oven, prepared for the worst. Up, up, -steadily climbs the thermometer, your pulses throb, your head snaps, -you gasp and pant for breath, and at length toward morning, when the -fire is dead, and the hot stones a little cooled, you fall into an -exhausted feverish sleep. But an early start is necessary to make the -next stage, and by four o’clock at least a new fire is built to cook -more rice, and you rush out of doors, to draw a whiff of pure air and -cool your burning temples. - -So even if it were not for the rains, flooded roads, and overflowing, -unbridged rivers, we should not travel except from dire necessity -in the summer. Tents have not been found practicable among the -missionaries in the rainy season, and their use has been followed in -several instances by severe and even fatal illness. One of the chief -annoyances, especially on this our first trip, at the inns were the -_kugungers_ or sightseers. The paper doors are speedily made available -as peep-holes for the foe. From all quarters the word “foreigner,” and -above all “foreign woman,” spreads like wildfire. Never did a lion -or an elephant create such excitement in an American village. The -moment we entered an inn the house was instantly thronged, besieged, -invested. Every door was full of holes made by dampening the finger and -placing it with gentle pressure against the paper. It was dismaying, -when we fancied ourselves quite alone, to see all those holes filled -with hungry eyes. Never since have I cared to visit a show of wild -animals or human freaks. I sympathize with them so fully, that there -is no pleasure in the satisfaction of curiosity at such a cost. We -wished to meet the people, but we could not talk with such a mob, in -any satisfactory way, as their frantic curiosity about us made it -impossible for them to attend to what we had to tell until they were in -some measure satisfied. But to return to our trip. - -Some twenty miles this side of Songdo the road crosses the Imgin river, -where a ferry boat is in readiness to carry the traveler and his -belongings to the other side. A story is told here of the patriotism -of a nobleman who lived in a magnificent summer house on the bluff -overlooking the river, at the time of the Hedioshi rebellion. His -king, fleeing from the Japanese, arrived here at midnight, and to light -him and his escort to the ferry this man set fire to his beautiful -home. As a result of this, the king crossed in safety, and escaped his -enemies. In token of his gratitude, he therefore ordered that a summer -house should be kept perpetually in memory of his loyal friend on the -site of the one which had been sacrificed, and loaded him with honors -and rewards. - -The city of Songdo is one of the largest in Korea, and from a Korean -standpoint probably the most important commercially, as well as the -richest. Here is grown the ginseng, so highly prized by Koreans, -Chinese and Japanese, and sold--the best--at forty-five dollars a -pound; more than its weight in gold. Though Songdo was formerly the -nation’s capital, a successful rebel general, making himself king, -established his seat of government in Seoul. - -We arrived in this ancient city about sundown, and shortly afterwards -met ten Christian inquirers. In a few days we sold all our books, and -medicines, which we expected would last for the entire trip, and had -to send back to Seoul for more. We were besieged by large crowds of -people during our stay, so that we were obliged to ask for a guard at -the gate. We admitted fifty at a time, and when their curiosity had -been sated, their diseases treated, and they had bought as many books -as they wanted, they were dismissed, to make room for another pushing, -struggling, eagerly curious fifty. Mr. Underwood baptized no one, but -met, examined and instructed inquirers, and directed and corrected his -native helper’s work. - -Songdo is about forty-five miles from Seoul, and has about two hundred -thousand inhabitants. Thus far the Southern Methodists are the only -ones who have a station there, though just why we other missionaries -never started work in so important a center it would be hard to say; -except that it did not seem to develop there at first as promisingly, -shall I say, as insistently, as in some other places, where need was so -pressing we never could obtain workers enough to supply the demand, far -less start new centers. - -[Illustration: TAI-TONG RIVER. PAGE 45] - -[Illustration: FERRY BOAT. PAGE 43] - -Songdo has no gates. It is said that they were removed, with the -privileges as well of the Quaga, because the people of that city so -persistently continued to despise and treat with contempt the authority -of Seoul. Whereas it is the custom to speak of going _up_ to Seoul, -they would refer to going _down_ to that city; they would not measure -their grain from right to left, as in Seoul, but from left to right; -and worst of all, from having constantly referred to the king as a pig, -they came to speak of a pig by the king’s name! - -From Songdo, we proceeded north, by short stages to Pyeng Yang, which -was the next place of importance, where Mr. Underwood looked for -inquirers and where there were already a few Christians. We reached -the Tai-tong River, which lay just below the city gates between us and -it, in a driving snow storm. Long and loudly did the various members -of our party try their lungs in the effort to obtain a boat, but at -length, when patience was quite exhausted, the ferryman, or one of -them, arrived with a great flat-bottomed boat, which accommodated us -all--ponies, packs, coolies, chair, helpers and missionaries--and -landed us in mud and safety on the other side for a few cash. I had -almost forgotten, however, to speak of the beautiful road leading up -to this ferry, with its noble overarching trees and its variety of -beautiful bushes and flowers. Even at that bleak and wintry season -it was lovely, and a month later, when we returned, it was charming, -with its green woodland shade and its wealth of sweet-scented -blossoms. Now, alas! it is quite shorn of its beauty, for during the -Japanese-Chinese war, the trees were all cut down. - -We were no sooner within the city gates than a very noisy and -constantly increasing crowd followed close at our heels, growing ever -more annoying and demonstrative, till its dimensions and behavior were -altogether too much like a mob. Respectable and frightened inn-keepers -one after another turned us from their doors until the uncomfortable -possibility of being obliged to spend the night in the streets -suggested itself. However, after a time we found a refuge, and with -the aid of a policeman from the magistracy we managed to keep the mob -at bay, seeing only a stated number at a time, as in Songdo. It rained -during most of our stay, and I could with no comfort or safety go out -even in a chair to see the town, for if I so much as peeped out, some -one caught sight of the foreign woman, and at once a crowd gathered -which made it impossible to move or to accomplish anything. Once before -we left I accompanied Mr. Underwood to a pleasant spot outside the -gates, which he thought would be a good site for a sub-station, and we -made a visit to the mother of one of our Christians. She was extremely -sick, and as she recovered not long after we were very happy in having -left a good impression and a grateful family behind us. - -I had a practical illustration of the inconvenience of Korean methods -of laundry in this town, for giving out a number of articles to the -tender mercies of a Korean woman, they were returned minus all the -buttons. They had pounded the garments on a stone in some stream, and -as a precaution had removed all these little conveniences before doing -so. There was no starch, no bluing, and no ironing. Korean clothes -before ironing must be ripped, and are then pounded for hours on a -smooth piece of wood until they obtain a beautiful gloss. Koreans are, -however, not without _iron_ irons. They have quite a large one, which -holds hot charcoal, and two sorts of small ones, not more than half -an inch wide by two or three inches in length, with a long handle, -for pressing the seams of sleeves, and of garments which it is only -desirable to press on the seam. - -After a stay of about a week in Pyeng Yang, during which time we saw -a great many visitors, most of whom came from curiosity, but none of -whom went away without a printed or spoken word about the gospel, we -again started out on our journey north. Oh, if one prophetic vision -might have been granted us of what was to be in such a few years! If -we could have seen those dreary and heart-sickening wastes of humanity -transformed into fields of rich grain waiting in harvest glory for the -sickle, if we could have seen the hundreds now gathered yearly into -the garner, how our hearts would have burned within us! “But the love -of God is broader than the measure of man’s mind,” and though we saw -visions and dreamed dreams, we hardly dared hope they would all be -fulfilled. God kept the future hidden as a sweet surprise. Just after -leaving this city an old man of seventy-six came three miles to inquire -of us “concerning the religion by which a man could be rid of sin,” one -of the first fruits of that later harvest, which God permitted us to -reap. - -Ernsan, one of the small villages at which we spent the night, turned -out to be a very rough sort of place. We were obliged in many of these -towns to use the Foreign Office letter to obtain the shelter of the -magistracies, as often the inns would not receive us or would prove -no defense against the rudeness of the curious mobs, and we had no -Christian constituency to fall back upon. At this particular place the -magistrate was away, and the “_chabin duli_” (roughs) were not under -ordinary restraint. - -In the morning, as the time for leaving drew near, a crowd of about one -hundred men and large boys assembled in the little courtyard waiting -for a _kugung_ (sight) of the two curiosities. My husband, well aware -that a woman who permits herself to be viewed by strange men is not -respected or respectable in Korea, had my chair brought into the house, -and the door closed, so that I might be shut in there and pass out -unseen. On finding themselves thus balked of perhaps the one great -opportunity of their lives to behold these strange, wild animals, -some of the baser fellows could not restrain their curiosity, and one -of them, probably egged on by the others, broke open the door of my -bedroom. Than this, no greater breach of law or propriety is recognized -in the land, and the guilty wretch is amenable to almost any punishment -the injured woman’s friends may choose to inflict. My husband, standing -near the door, lifted his foot as the proper member with which to -express his sentiments--the tongue being incapable of sufficient vigor -and the hand too good--and this, though only a demonstration--the man -was not touched--was sufficient encouragement to my chair coolies, who, -considering their own honor bound up with mine for the time being, -rushed forth to punish the “vile creature” who had insulted us all. - -One of them, a brawny fellow whom we called Pat, from his resemblance -to gentlemen of the nationality which favors that name, at a bound had -singled out his prey from the midst of the crowd and dragged him forth -from his encircling friends and protectors. - -He dragged him forth in the usual approved Korean method, under such -circumstances, by the top-knot, a very convenient and effective handle, -for a man once in the grasp of his enemy in this way is practically -at his mercy. He was soon on the ground being pummelled. But it must -be remarked that we were but a little party, four coolies, one helper, -one missionary, one woman, and they were a hundred or more strong. Our -calling and dearest hopes forbade our using severe measures, nor would -they, even firearms, have availed for long, but would only have served -to make enemies for us on all sides, supposing we had frightened this -crowd into order. So it behooved us to make peace, and speedily, for -there were black looks and angry and threatening murmurings as the -friends of the culprit drew near, preparing to defend him. - -[Illustration: METHOD OF IRONING. PAGE 46] - -So Mr. Underwood rushed down into the crowd, drew off our exasperated -coolie, and quieted the rising storm. But Patrick could not depart -without giving some expression to his indignation, and waving his chair -rod like a shillalah in the air around his head, he stood at the top of -the steps, his back to the crowd (the pure Korean method in quarrels), -vociferously announcing to whom it might concern his opinion of such -actions in general, and this one in particular, and bidding them, in -the spirit of James Fitz James at the ford - - “Come one, come all, this rock shall fly - From its firm base as soon as I.” - -But my husband saw that it would be best to get away while we could -without exasperating them further, and before the temper of the crowd -should change again for the worse. A similar occurrence in either China -or Japan would almost certainly have ended very differently for us. - -The Koreans do not bear malice, nor are they very revengeful or cruel -without great provocation. We merely had to do with a rough crowd, -who gathered thinking we were probably a base sort of people; and -when they saw that we behaved as quiet, decent Koreans would do, they -respected our reserve and curbed their curiosity, though a few boys -threw stones and hooted, and they all followed us a few rods outside -the village, but we soon found ourselves peacefully alone. - -Before passing on I must say a few words on the general effectiveness -of the top-knot method. It is a great pity men do not wear their hair -in this way in America. We women who favor women’s rights would soon -find it a mighty handle by which to manage them, for in the hands of a -discerning woman it is indeed an instrument of unlimited possibilities. -Who would care to wield a scepter abroad, who could wield a top-knot -at home? By one of these well-tied arrangements have I beheld a -justly irate wife dragging home her drunken husband from the saloon; -and firmly grasping this, I have seen more than one indignant female -administering that corporal punishment which her lord and master no -doubt richly deserved. The Korean wife stands and serves her husband -while he eats, she works while he smokes, but when family affairs come -to a certain crisis, she takes the helm (that is to say, the top-knot) -in hand, and puts the ship about. - -At another of our stopping places on this road we found a magistrate -who had been so long in the interior and who was so ignorant and -illiterate that he neither knew the uses of a passport, nor could read -it when presented. This was serious, indeed, for here with a rough and -curious crowd to be refused the shelter of the magistracy might mean -our being subjected to mob violence, and would almost certainly insure -our passing the night on the road. Here we must exchange exhausted -pack-ponies for fresh ones, here we must obtain money for the next -stage, and food and fire for our tired coolies and ourselves. So when -our helper returned with the disquieting news that the magistrate would -none of us, “the captain” donned his harness, and passport in hand, -strode into the presence, gesticulated, I am afraid, stamped, waved the -passport in the air, flung it to the ground, and by dint of noise and -vehemence succeeded in impressing the astonished little official with a -sense of the dignity and importance of the Foreign Office passports in -the hands of strenuous Westerners. - -He promptly and politely gave us rooms, money, ponies, everything we -needed, in order to rid himself of us and our arguments, I suppose, -and no doubt he still recalls us as the most remarkable and alarming -intruders who ever disturbed his quiet and uneventful life. - -But although sheltered by the magisterial walls our annoyances were not -over. Word had been passed far and near of the arrival of foreigners, -and the crowds gathered thicker and thicker. They were only rude -and good-naturedly curious, but curiosity is a strange passion when -really aroused, as only those who have been its victims know. Men will -travel miles, will undergo unheard-of fatigues and surmount great -difficulties, and will pay very little regard to the convenience, -comfort or even safety of those who try to oppose them in their desires -to gratify this passion. - -Aware that we were besieged, we hung shawls and rain coats round -the room, before the doors and windows, hoping to prevent the usual -peep-show made by perforating fingers, and thus fortified, seated -ourselves in front of our trunk, which served for a table, to partake -of our meal during the short respite thus gained. A smothered titter -made us look quickly around. Long slender rods had been pushed through -the peep-holes, the curtains lifted, multitudes of eyes applied to new -holes, and we were well in view. I must honestly confess that in some -of these baffled moments, in the hot fire of the enemy’s ungenerous -triumph, I have thought with glee of the execution which could be done -with a syringe well aimed at those eye-filled holes, if we were just -common travelers and not longing to win all hearts and ready to bear -all such small annoyances with patience for the love of these poor -people, even the most annoying of them. And now that I am more fully -seasoned, I endure these rude intrusions into my privacy with more -_sang froid_, excusing and understanding it. - -About this stage in our journey our provisions ran very low, and among -other things sugar gave out. Natives do not have this article of food, -but we were able to get the Korean buckwheat honey, than which I have -never tasted any more delicious, and we found that it improved the -flavor of the finest tea. - -Here in these far recesses of the interior, where we were uncertain of -the temper of the people, and where many more than doubtful characters -were known to be in hiding, the magistrates thought it necessary to -send at least one, sometimes two, officials with us. - -At the town of Huiju we found the scenery growing quite wild, the hills -rising into mountains (though not very high ones), the road zig-zagging -up and up, while a brawling, hurrying brook ran noisily below. Here -we found the first spring flowers under the lingering snow, and above -the snow were butterflies darting about in the sunshine, quite sure -that they were in the right place, since the Father sent them, even -though it did look a little cold and bleak; and then if one only looked -up, there was the sun. Just here in the steepest, dizziest and most -difficult part of the ascent, two of those poor little pack-ponies -which I had been pitying all along for the terrible way their -relentless mapoos overloaded them, began fighting (loads and all), -and after kicking each other in the liveliest fashion for some time, -squealing like little fiends, while the poor mapoos were dancing and -vociferating around them trying to bring about a truce, they finally -scampered off in different directions, and then and there my heart -hardened, and never since has pity for these animals entered it. They -are, I firmly opine, as self-willed, spoiled, obstinate, quarrelsome, -uncertain, tricky and tough little beasts as ever carried a load. - -Among many other people treated at this little village, a woman came -sixteen miles for medicine, and carried away as well the news of the -Great Physician. Thus the mission to the body proves effective to the -soul, and the seed is scattered far and wide. How that little seed -prospered He only knows who has promised that those who cast it upon -the water shall find it after many days. - -Here, after we had eaten our supper, Mr. Underwood and I conceived a -deep scheme to escape the stuffy little cage-like room and take a walk -by moonlight in the midst of that lovely scenery. It would of course be -futile to go out of the gate, for then the alarm would be given, and we -should be hounded by the entire able-bodied portion of the populace. -But the wall was low, and waiting till we supposed every one had -retired for the night, we stealthily crept like a couple of criminals -out of our quarters, surmounted the wall, and were at last free, and -for once alone, away from staring eyes, to enjoy the sweet air and -each other’s company. But alas! we had hardly gone twenty paces when a -Korean cur (than which only a Korean pig is more detestable) espied or -nosed us, and at once set up a loud and continuous bark. We hurried on, -hoping to escape, but it was not to be; one white form after another -appeared at the doorways, soon a quickly swelling stream of people -were in our wake, and the game was up. We returned and retraced our -steps, attended by a long retinue, entered by the gate, and hid our -discomfiture within the walls of our little dungeon. - -From Huiju our road led up farther, over a still higher mountain, and -here we were provided, according to the conditions of our passport, -with oxen instead of ponies to carry our loads (being stronger and -surer footed), and also, as for all travelers belated and overtaken -by darkness, torches of blazing pine knots or long grass carried by -some of the villagers to a certain distance, where it was the business -of others to meet us with new ones. The men who provide the oxen and -torches are given the use of certain fields by the government in -payment for such services, but often they are unfaithful. The belated -traveler pounds long at their gates in vain. Some neighbor appears to -say the man is sick or away. At length, when a reward has been given, -and when patience has not only ceased to be a virtue, but ceased to -exist at all, he or his wife appears and deliberately prepares the -long-desired torch. - -On the other side of this mountain, as we descended into the valley, we -found a village which presented a very different aspect from any we had -yet seen. The houses were not made of a basket work of twigs filled in -with mud, like the ordinary native dwellings, but of heavy logs. The -little compounds surrounding each house were enclosed with high fences -made of strong timbers, each sharpened to a point at the top and firmly -bound together, instead of the usual hedge of blossoming bushes or -tile-covered mud wall. It all looked as if these farmers and foresters -were prepared for a siege, but from what enemy? - -There were no Indians or wild tribes here. It was a most picturesque -place. The mountains rose grandly above us, all around were woods, -and a beautiful stream rippled along between them and the village. It -was a glorious moonlit night, the atmosphere seemed fairly to sparkle -with brilliancy. Again, after supper, we prepared to take a walk. Few -indeed had been our opportunities for such honeymoon observances as -this, which are supposed to be the peculiar privilege and bounden duty -of all the good newly married. As has been noted already, the large -crowds which watched our every movement, and from whose observation not -the smallest motion was lost, precluded any such folly on our part, but -here, far off in the wild recesses of the woods and mountains, in a -village whose inhabitants seemed nobly exceptional in the praise-worthy -habit of keeping at home, here we might wander at will, in the -enchanting light, listening anon to the silvery cadences of the stream. -So we sauntered along in the most approved fashion of honeymooners -until a few steps beyond the confines of the village, where woods -closed in on all sides. - -We had observed here and there as we passed along what looked like -a sort of huge pen made of logs, weighted with great stones on top, -strangely constructed, as if for the housing of some large animal. -Now as we stood on the edge of the brook trying to decide whether to -cross into the woods, a sound as of heavy and yet stealthy footsteps -on the dry leaves in the shadow of the trees arrested our attention. -An uncanny mystery seemed to hang over everything. Slightly startled -by the sound, we awakened to the fact that the pens we had seen must -be tiger traps, that this was a famous tiger tramping ground (they -would naturally come to the brook to drink), that the enemy against -whom the village was so strongly fortified were these beasts of prey, -and that it would be in every way profitable to us to postpone our -moonlight rambles for some more propitious time and place. So with a -less lover-like and more business-like pace we returned to the prosaic -but welcome shelter of the huts. - -Korean tiger skins are very fine when the animal has been killed in -the winter, but unfortunately the natives do not understand the proper -method of preserving them, and those which are taken away, as well as -the leopard skins, very soon become denuded of hair. The natives prize -the claws very highly, and often remove them as soon as the beast is -killed. They are found from the Manchurian border through the whole -country, among the mountains; more than once have they been seen in -the capital since my arrival, and only a few months after I landed a -leopard was seen in the Russian legation compound next to our house. -As our homes were all bungalows, and the extreme heat of summer nights -necessitated open windows, I often lay awake after this for hours -at night, certain that I heard the stealthy, heavy tread and deep -breathing of one of these creatures in my room. - -But to return to our experiences in the tiger valley, which were not -yet done. While Mr. Underwood and I were taking a walk together that -evening we heard in the valley below us the sharp report of a gun. The -house in which we were was on the side of a hill, while our servants’ -quarters, and indeed most of the village, was in the valley just below. -Shortly some one came running to tell us that a tiger had just been -shot. This was slightly exciting, but turned out later to have been -a mere excuse to quiet any alarm I might have felt on hearing the -explosion of the gun. - -The real facts were, it seemed, that a band of some thirty men, -probably fugitives from justice, and robbers, had conspired to visit -us that night at midnight and destroy the vile foreigners who had -dared to intrude into the sacred precincts of this mountain land, and -thus warned, no more strangers should trouble their shores. They had -drunk together to the success of their plot, and the leader had rather -overdone this part of it. Far gone in intoxication, he had been too -much fuddled to keep to the plan, had come several hours in advance of -the time, had loudly boasted in the little inn of their intentions, and -fired his gun in a fit of bravado. At the command of the head of the -village he was immediately seized and locked up and his gun taken away. -It was a poor old-fashioned affair, arranged with a long fuse wound -around the bearer’s wrist, lighted when ready to fire, and inserted in -an arm held up by the trigger, the pulling of which raised and removed -a small cap which protected the priming powder and dropped the fuse -upon it, thus firing the gun. It is with these awkward and clumsy -weapons that the cool Korean hunters face and shoot the most formidable -leopards, tigers, wild boars and bears which abound in the mountains of -Korea. The Korean nobles use tiger and leopard skins on their carrying -chairs, and the teeth and claws for ornaments, while the bones, when -ground up, are supposed to be unrivalled as a tonic. - -Many are the tiger stories told by Koreans; their folklore abounds -with them. One very brief one is all I have time to insert. Once -upon a time a fierce tiger crept stealthily into a village in search -of prey. But every one was in bed, the cattle and pigs well guarded -behind palisaded walls, not a child, a dog, or even a chicken lingered -outside. He was about to retire in despair of finding a supper there -when he spied through the small aperture at the bottom of a gate, such -as is found in all gates for the egress of dogs and cats, a small and -trembling dog. His majesty tried in vain to squeeze through this hole, -and finding it hopeless, took a careful survey of the wall. It was -high, it is true, and sharply spiked, but sharply set too was the royal -appetite, and he resolved to try the leap, after carefully reckoning -the height to be surmounted and his own strength. He was a great agile -fellow, and with the exertion of all his might he jumped, barely -escaping the spikes, and landed safely inside the inclosure, quite -ready for his supper, well aware that he must snatch it quickly and be -gone ere the hunter in the cottage should espy and shoot him. But puppy -had gathered his tail between his legs, and with loud and long kiyies -had slipped through the opening to the outer side of the wall. Nothing -remained for our hungry prowler but to try another leap, only to find -that his supper had again given him the slip. Alas, that his brains -were not equal to his perseverance and industry! I grieve to be obliged -to relate that this greedy fellow vaulted back and forth in pursuit of -his meal, his anger and appetite growing with every leap, until he died -of exhaustion and fell an ignominious prey to his small and elusive -foe, illustrating the fact that might does not always win and that the -small and weak need not always despair in the contest with size and -strength. - -In the little hamlet where we met the adventure with the man who meant -to kill us we were treated to fine venison and delicious honey. All -through the woods we found anemones and other spring flowers and saw -specimens of the beautiful pink ibis, belonging to the same family as -the bird so often worshiped in Egypt. On the road hither and all around -us we saw stacked and ready for sale cords of fine dark hard woods, of -which we did not know the names, but much of which looked like black -walnut. No one who has traveled through this part of the country could -possibly say there was a dearth of trees in Korea, or of singing birds, -or sweet-scented flowers, or gorgeous butterflies. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - - Leaving Kangai--We Choose a Short Cut--Much Goitre in the - Mountains--A Deserted Village--The Jericho Road--We are - Attacked by Robbers--A Struggle in the Inn Yard--Odds too - great--Our Attendants are Seized and Carried Off--The Kind - Inn-Keeper--Inopportune Patients--A Race for Life--A City of - Refuge--A Beautiful Custom--Safe at Last--The Magistrate Turns - Out to be an Old Friend--The Charge to the Hunters. - - -Our next stopping place of importance was the town of Kangai. This was -a walled city of between ten and twenty thousand inhabitants in the -northern part of the province of Pyeng An Do. Being in the center of a -rather turbulent and independent community, at least at that time--and -when were mountaineers not so?--and quite near the Chinese border, its -governor was invested with almost provincial authority, had a large -number of soldiers always under arms, and surrounded himself with -the greatest possible show of power and state, having a numerous and -obsequious body-guard, a gun fired whenever he left his office, and a -great retinue of menials and officials who constantly attended him. He -told us that all this was necessary to overawe the people and establish -his prestige and dignity. He was a relative of the queen, and I had met -him at the palace. - -As we approached the city and about three miles outside of it, we -saw in the distance a little company of soldiers with flying banners -and sounding trumpets, awaiting us apparently at the foot of a hill. -What this might portend we were at a loss to guess. It might mean -fetters and warder for intrusive foreigners, it might mean an order to -return, it might mean our immediate extinction, but so kind had been -our reception everywhere, barring sightseers, that we did not entertain -any serious misgivings, although greatly puzzled as to what the -demonstration could possibly signify. However, we marched right up, as -if this martial array concerned us not in the least. As soon as we came -within saluting distance the leader of the little company made us the -most profound obeisance and announced that he had been sent to escort -us to the city. So we proceeded with this rather cumbersome addition -to our modest suite, and not only this, for small boys are the same -all the world over, and a motley throng of them, attracted both by the -soldiers and the circus (or, shall we say, the menagerie?), closed in -around us. A mile farther on a second attachment of military, with its -inevitable corps of small boys, was awaiting us, and on we went, the -hubbub ever increasing, drums beating, trumpets sounding, flags flying, -wooden shoes clattering over the stones, louder, it seemed to me, than -all the rest, as I cowered in the shelter of my closely curtained chair. - -[Illustration: PRINCE YI CHAI SOON, COUSIN OF KING.] - -[Illustration: HIGH KOREAN OFFICIAL, KIM YAN SIK. PAGE 23] - -Momentarily the formidable dimensions of the crowd increased, while -other bands of soldiers joined us at intervals, for which I was -devoutly thankful, for while the crowd seemed good-natured and simply -wildly curious, at the same time we were strangers, to whom Koreans -had the reputation of being inimical. With so large a crowd a small -matter may kindle a blaze of fury, and as we were rather inexperienced -and ignorant of the character of the people, I felt that whatever the -intentions of the magistrate might be, the hand of the responsible -official would be gentle compared with the hands of the mob. And -yet looking back on it all now, in the light of all that has since -occurred, it was not altogether inappropriate but in a way fitting, -that the first heralds of the gospel and the advent of Christianity to -this province should be with banners, trumpets and great acclaim. The -Kingdom had come, if only in its smallest beginnings, and had come to -stay. - -The wonder of it, which will grow, I think, more and more through the -eternal ages, is that God should allow us, his poor creatures, to share -with him in a work far greater than the creation of a universe, even -the founding of an eternal and limitless kingdom of holiness, glory and -peace. - -But to return to our noisy procession. Within the city the noise and -excitement (“yahdan” the Koreans would say, and nothing expresses it -so well) were far greater than ever. Dancing girls and hoodlums of -every description swelled the crowd, laughing, shouting, pushing, -jostling. High points of vantage were occupied to the last inch with -small boydom, booths or screened seats had been rented for the use of -the ladies, and the streets were hardly passable. I shivered. I felt -like a mouse in the power of a playful tiger. It is not a pleasant -thing to feel one’s self the object of desire--even if merely in a -sightseeing way--of thousands of strange people. Many in that crowd had -come more than ten miles to behold us. My husband to protect me from -the unpleasantness, to say the least, of falling into the hands of so -large and eager a mob, hastened to the gates of the magistracy, quickly -dismounted and bade the guards be ready to close them the instant my -chair had entered. This was promptly done, the gates well bolted and -guarded, and proud of our victory over the small boys, we hastily -retired to our rooms. But hark! what noise was that, like thundering of -a waterfall, or of a river dashing away its barriers? Alack! it was -the boys. They had scaled the wall on each other’s shoulders, and were -literally pouring over it into the compound. - -I looked around the little room for some means of escape, like a hunted -animal. Its windows and doors were double, the inner one sliding into -the wall, but both were composed simply of a light frame of slender -sticks covered with stout paper, and already the dancing girls and boys -were tearing away the outer coat preparatory to forcing an entrance. -Suddenly I espied a small door, which I found opened into a long dark -closet, full of the dust and dirt of unclean centuries. Hither I fled, -cowering in its farthest recesses. Those who looked in the windows, and -saw nothing of the strange animal _genus Americanum_, concluded she -must be in some other place, and so a short respite was granted, which -Mr. Underwood and the deputy magistrate made good use of in guarding -our house doors. The deputy himself was obliged to take his station -there, and threatening with awful penalties any soldier who should -permit the “_chabin duli_” (roughs and crowd) to enter uninvited. -Henceforth during my stay in that town I was comparatively untroubled. - -A very epidemic of diseases, however, seemed to have smitten the place. -Every one needed the doctor, and old, almost forgotten complaints were -resurrected and rubbed up, or if none existed new ones were invented -to furnish an excuse for an introduction. People stood in long rows -from morning till night to see this popular doctor, and had I been -medicining for money, I might have charged almost any price and filled -high our coffers; but I was only too glad to be able to tell them of -the great Physician, whose unspeakable gift is without money or price. - -The magistrate treated us very kindly, and one day made a dinner -for Mr. Underwood at a little summer house outside the city. Here, -after partaking of various Korean dainties, he asked him a great many -questions about America and Americans. My husband had thus a fine -opportunity to enlighten the man on our own mission and work. He of -course listened politely, but the Korean noble is very difficult -to reach. He is bound so rigidly by so many social, religious and -political fetters, that he usually will not allow himself to consider -for a moment the possibility of casting them off. - -We were much disappointed at not finding here any of the inquirers -of whom we had been told so much, and to examine and instruct whom -Mr. Underwood had turned so far aside from the main road to his final -destination, Weeju. We could only conclude that they had either been -too shy to approach us in the public quarters in which we were located -or that we had been entirely misinformed, and we were forced very -reluctantly to accept the latter as a fact. - -The magistrate sent a number of presents to us ere we left--a box -of cigars, though we were not smokers, another of candied Chinese -ginger, honey, flour, beef, vinegar and potatoes. These were articles -which they found by diligent inquiry from our attendants that we were -fond of. They scoured the country for potatoes, though except in the -mountains, where rice will not grow, few Koreans cultivate or eat them. - -On leaving Kangai we could either take a long road around the -mountains, well known and much traveled, or a short cut through and -over them, much less frequented, but which the magistrate assured us -was now quite safe, as he had recently passed through there himself -and believed that everything was now quiet and orderly. The locality -had a bad reputation, being off the main lines of travel in the -recesses of the mountains, where escaped criminals were wont to hide, -and where a band of robbers were said to have made their lair. But time -pressed, work was urgent, the magistrate’s statements were reassuring, -and we decided to take the shorter road. We were provided with a police -official and a soldier, who, our host told us, would be respected and -feared, and our entire safety would thus be assured. - -[Illustration: CARRIER OX. PAGE 54] - -[Illustration: THE OX-CART OR TALGOOGY. PAGE 197] - -Our road on leaving Kangai passed directly over the mountains, through -a region more sparsely populated and more wildly beautiful than -anything we had yet seen. There were a few stray farms where sparse -crops of potatoes were raised, but the mountains hemmed us in closely -on all sides. They were covered with magnificent trees; here and there -a woodcutter was seen or heard, but the evidences of human life were -few. We had noticed with interest through the mountain districts a -large number of people for these sparsely settled regions who were -afflicted with goitre. - -At night we reached a small village of scarce a half dozen houses, -established by the government as a place of rest for travelers, since -there was no other place within convenient marching distance. A subsidy -was given in return for which these natives were bound to provide -refreshments, horses, oxen, or torches for those who bore passports -or official orders. But travel was rare and they had come to consider -their duty a tyrannical exaction, their subsidy as their right; so when -we arrived an ominous silence reigned over the place, and we found it -had been completely deserted and that not long since everything had -been dropped and the people had fled and hidden. This inhospitable -reception was a very definite sign of ill will, a plain refusal to -give the shelter and assistance they were so well paid to bestow. Of -course it did not auger well, but there was nothing to be done for -the present but to try to supply our needs. Fires were built, horse -provender found, and rice for coolies, mapoos and attendants cooked, -while for ourselves we fared well on the contents of our box of stores. -Some of the villagers returned that night to their homes. - -Early next morning, having paid for what we had used, we started away. -But the necessity for haste, as our stage that day was a long one, -and our want of suspicion of any serious danger led us into making a -mistake; we divided our small party, Mr. Underwood, the soldier and -myself hurrying on ahead on what we afterwards called the Jericho -road, leaving helpers and constable with the pack-ponies and mapoos, -which traveled more slowly, to follow at a distance of several miles. -We planned to reach our noon rest place early, and order food and -provender (which it always takes an hour to cook) in advance, so that -all might be ready on their arrival and a speedy departure insured. -The day was a very fine one, the mountain air exhilarating and -delightful, and there were no sightseers, so that Mr. Underwood and I -walked together a long distance, laughing and chatting and gathering -the pretty spring flowers, of which there were many, especially the -sweet-scented violets, which I was surprised to find growing thus wild -in the mountains. We arrived early at the little hamlet which was our -destination, and were immediately installed in the one tiny inn the -place could boast. - -I am not sure how much time elapsed before our loads appeared, but it -was not very long, and when word was brought that they were coming -my husband slipped a small revolver (our only weapon) from our -traveling-bag into his pocket. I understood too little of the language -to know what message he had received, but he told me that some rough -fellows were coming with our party and that there might be trouble, in -which case he might need the revolver. He had received a message, while -on the way to the inn, that robbers had overtaken our people and were -following us. It seems that as soon as we were out of sight a number of -men had overtaken our loads and charged one of our mapoos with theft, -saying that they had come to reclaim their stolen property. They bound -his hands, took possession of our ponies and loads, and followed us -to our inn. I peeped out through a crack where the door stood ajar, -and saw what was not reassuring, a party of twenty or thirty country -fellows, wilder and ruder looking than any I had yet seen, their hair -falling in matted locks around their evil faces instead of being -fastened in the usual rough top-knot, and their angry eyes fierce and -bloodshot. Each carried a short stout club, and they were all shouting -in angry tones at once, while our mapoo, his hands bound, my husband, -the constable, soldier and helper stood in the midst of this wild -throng. The tiny place seemed filled with the men and the hubbub, while -the frightened villagers peeped in at the gate or over the wall; our -brave chair coolies had hidden away, for which we were later extremely -thankful. - -The attacking party with loud and angry voices accused our mapoo -of having stolen their money, a hat and a bowl; and when asked for -evidence, pointed to the man’s own shabby old hat, then on his head, to -a rice bowl, placed on top of the packs (he said by their hands), and -to our own large and heavy bag of Korean cash, fastened and sealed just -as we saw it placed on the pony’s back in the morning. They refused to -release the mapoo unless these things were delivered up. Mr. Underwood -told them that the hat and money were ours, but that he would go with -them before a Korean magistrate and leave the whole matter to his -decision, only they must unbind our mapoo. This they would not hear -to and continued to insist on our giving them the money. My husband -absolutely refused to do this. Meanwhile, having placed himself, with -the brave little soldier at his side, in a narrow space wide enough -only for two, between the wall of the compound and the house, he bade -the latter cut the mapoo’s bands. The mob threatened to kill him if -he did so, but he turned to Mr. Underwood and said, “Does the great -man bid me cut?” and receiving the affirmative reply, he at once cut -the ropes which bound the mapoo. The ruffians made a rush, but Mr. -Underwood, hastily pushing the mapoo behind him, managed with the aid -of the soldier at his side in that narrow place to push one man back -against the others and keep them off for some time. - -While his whole attention was thus engaged, however, with those in -front, some of the party found a way to the rear, and coming up quietly -behind, suddenly pinioned his arms back and held him helpless, while -the others carried off our poor mapoo away outside the village, their -voices dying away in the distance. In the awful silence that succeeded -the uproar we waited what would follow. After what seemed an age of -suspense they returned without the man and seized and carried off our -constable. Again that fateful silence, that agonizing suspense; again -another raid, and our other mapoo was dragged away. If these and our -other companions had shown half the courage of the little soldier and -made any effort to defend themselves and us, and especially had the -chair coolies stood by us, the ruffians would very likely have been -beaten off. As it was, we were practically helpless, the only question -was who was to be attacked next. Mr. Underwood was very doubtful of -the wisdom of producing the little revolver until the very last -extremity. One by one they carried away the members of our party till -only Mr. Underwood, the little soldier and I were left. - -[Illustration: A KOREAN VILLAGE] - -We learned afterward that they were a set of wild men, many of them -fugitives from justice, probably an organized band of robbers, into -whose hands we had fallen, and the fear that lay like ice at my heart -was that when all our friends and defenders were one by one removed -they would carry away and murder my husband too. So I waited, scarcely -breathing, for the next return. What I dreaded they did in fact propose -to do, saying it was the right way to treat foreigners. They said they -had robbed and killed a Japanese officer some years ago, and having -never been punished, would be quite safe in treating us in a similar -way. On our return to Seoul we found by inquiry that this was true, -that while the government had been forced to pay a heavy indemnity, -they had never been able to identify and punish the murderers. Had we -been overtaken before we reached the village perhaps our fate would -have been that of the Japanese; but when the affair reached this point -the villagers interfered and forbade. They said they had allowed -them to carry off our Korean servants and our money, but should we, -foreigners, known at the palace and carrying a passport, be killed -there, their village would have to bear the penalty, and we must be -spared. They were only a few men, but probably people who, knowing -the haunts of the criminals and able to identify them, had them to -some extent in their power. The men therefore sullenly filed away, or -at least most of them. One or two of the fiercest and most repulsive -still hung about, and one of them walked into my room (an insult in the -eyes of all Koreans) and insolently stared until my husband, entering, -ordered him out. - -The inn-keeper was a little man not five feet high, who did all in -his power to reassure and make me comfortable, as if such a thing -were possible with our poor friends in distress, if not dead, and our -own fate only too uncertain. It was twenty-five English miles to the -nearest magistracy, and doing our best, it would be difficult to reach -it that night; but we knew that if any help was to be had for the -captives it must be secured at once, aside from the fact that we had -no assurance of safety with so small a party until within the walls of -the yamen. So it was decided to start as soon as possible. My scared -chair coolies had sneaked out of their hiding places in a sufficiently -well-preserved condition to be able to partake of a hearty meal, and -were soon ready to start. My husband had a Korean pony which possessed -the rare virtue of kicking and biting every one who attempted to touch -him, except his mapoo and his master; to which quality we were indebted -for his being left us that day. One other pony we were able to obtain, -but as it of course could carry only our rugs and bedding, the rest of -our belongings we were compelled to leave behind. - -We asked the host to take them into his house and take charge of them, -to which he willingly consented. His son, in an agony of terror, begged -him not to do so, as the robbers had threatened to come and burn down -his house if he sheltered either us or our goods. The stout-hearted -little fellow, whose soul was much too large for his body, laughed -at the threat, and bidding one of the very men who had attacked us -give a lift, he carried our trunks into his house and said he would -take good care of them for us until we should send for them. In the -meanwhile Mr. Underwood had been urging me to eat, which I tried in -vain to do, as a large lump of something hard had become fixed in my -throat, would neither go up or down and no food could pass that way. In -fact, I may as well admit I was a very much frightened woman, and my -whole desire was to run away as fast and as far as possible from that -dreadful locality. It sounds, and is, disgraceful, but as this is a -narration of facts it may as well be confessed. My chief grief was that -we must leave our poor friends behind. That, indeed, seemed cruel and -unthinkable, yet there appeared to be no other way to relieve or help -them. - -Just as we were ready to start two or three country people came and -asked for medicines for trifling complaints. Was anything ever so -ill-timed? Surely we could not wait then, when the lives of our poor -people as well as our own perhaps depended on our speedy departure. But -not so, counseled my husband. These men and women needed help which we -could give. It was our duty to show that we, as the servants of Jesus, -had come in a spirit of brotherhood and love, and it gave us a fine -opening to deliver a message and to distribute the printed Word--it -would not take long, and in any case were we not in God’s hands? So not -knowing what moment the ruffians might return to drag us away to share -the unknown fate of our attendants, perhaps death, surely torture, I -prescribed. Alas! I hope none of my patients were poisoned; but with -so distracted a mind did I work that it was very difficult to fix my -thoughts on afflicted eyes, ears and throats, etc. At length all had -been seen, the medicines repacked, when another patient appeared; again -we waited, I diagnosed and prescribed and Mr. Underwood prepared the -medicine; but still another and yet another appeared, till I began -to think we should not be able to leave that day at all. At last, -however, all were satisfied, and we started with our race with time, -considerably after two o’clock. - -We had twenty-five English miles to travel before we could reach the -nearest magistrate, on a road leading through and over the mountains. -It was wild and exceedingly beautiful, but correspondingly rough and -difficult. Sometimes it was only the narrowest foot-path, running -along a ledge of rocks overhanging the stream; sometimes it was almost -lost among great boulders, which must be skirted or surmounted. The -loveliest wild flowers were all around us, but for once they did not -tempt us to linger. We had barely left the confines of the village -before we saw in the road before us the prostrate and apparently -inanimate body of a man, whom we soon recognized as our constable. He -proved to be not dead, but simply fainting from the cruel beating he -had received. He soon revived a little and begged us to hurry on for -aid. He was too much exhausted and bruised to be carried on with us, -unless we abandoned our purpose of reaching the magistracy that night, -which it seemed for the best good of all to do; so most reluctantly we -left him to the mercy of the villagers. It was a sore alternative, but -otherwise help for the others would have been delayed many hours. - -When we had proceeded two or three miles farther we saw a line of armed -men half kneeling barring the road in front of us, with their guns -aimed apparently at us. I of course concluded that my last hour had -come, but we decided that to advance with no signs of fear or doubt -was the only course to pursue, and found a few minutes later that our -formidable-looking opponents were only some hunters waiting game that -was being driven towards them by others. Our road steadily ascended, -and was more and more difficult. Where it was worst I walked to relieve -the tired coolies, for even with four men and a light burden it is -no easy matter to carry a chair up the mountain side on a warm April -afternoon. When sunset was almost due, and we had many miles yet to go, -the coolies insisted on waiting for supper. I dreaded the possible -necessity of being obliged to spend a part of the night unsheltered in -a country that seemed so hostile, added to which the other thought of -the necessity for speed made it seem impossible and wicked to delay for -such a paltry thing as food. - -Why the men who had seemed so bitter and cruel at noon had not followed -and attacked our weakened party I have never been able to entirely -explain. I can only surmise that, like most Asiatics, they were firmly -convinced that Mr. Underwood, in common with all foreigners, always -went heavily though secretly armed, and that any attempt to injure our -persons would result in awful calamity. In addition, our passport and -the well-known fact that we were on very friendly relations with the -palace may have made them fear the consequence of harming us, even -though they were more than half resolved to do so. More than this, the -villagers who forbade them to touch us probably knew their haunts and -would be able to hunt them out; and lastly, the fact that Mr. Underwood -stoutly resisted them and showed no signs of fear undoubtedly had a -marked effect upon their treatment of us. Witness the fact that even -the little soldier, the only man of our native party who fought them -and showed no fear, was the only one of the Koreans who escaped unhurt. -If we had at any moment shown ourselves afraid of them they would have -taken it as sure proof that we were defenseless. Had they seen our -little revolver, and known it for our only weapon, they would have -counted us, as we were, practically helpless, and our fate might have -been decided very differently. - -At the time I felt certain they were not through with us, but having -weakened our party, they would attack us in the lonely road, far away -from the friendly village, and finish their work. - -We could scarcely hope to distance them, handicapped as we were, but I -felt we could not put too much space between them and us, and many a -backward glance I cast, expecting to see them emerge any moment from -some rock or tree. Good for man or woman it is to feel one’s self cast -utterly on God’s mercy, and entirely in his hands, to know one’s self -beyond all human aid, with him alone to look to for succor. As I turned -to my husband that day and said, “Well, there’s nothing left to do but -to trust the Lord,” it flashed over us both how commonly we only trust -him when there is nothing else to do, as if his help were the last we -should ever invoke, a last forlorn hope. How far, far too much, we fall -into the habit of trusting in an arm of flesh and all the frail little -human makeshifts with which we encompass ourselves and fancy we are -safe. But how near he seems, how strong the uplift of the “everlasting -arms,” when the soul is left alone to him. - -We were forced to wait some time while our tired coolies fed, the -darkness meanwhile coming on rapidly. At length, rather than waste -any more time, I started, walking in advance and leaving the coolies -to follow; eat I could not. Soon the road divided into two, one a -short cut over the mountain, the other a much longer one around it; we -decided to take the shorter road, which also leading through the woods -became extremely dark, so that in a short time we were obliged to call -for torches, the road too turning out to be very bad. It was barely a -foothold, circling and twisting down the precipitous mountain side. -Mr. Underwood soon concluded that he would rather trust his own feet -than his pony’s, as we heard the displaced stones go rattling down into -depths far below; but as for me, though I would have much preferred to -descend from my chair, which had some time before overtaken us, I was -now so tired that it would have delayed us too much and added nothing -to my safety. - -Still it was rather an uncomfortable thing to be carried along on the -brink of a precipice, down a slippery, uncertain path, in a darkness -which was scarcely relieved, only made visible, by the flickering -torchlights, especially as they invariably burned out before the next -came up, and we were obliged at times to proceed a quarter of a mile -or more--it always seemed more--in total darkness; and yet worse than -this is probably often experienced by people traveling in the mountains -for pleasure. At last, however, after nine o’clock, Mr. Underwood came -to the chair and bade me look up. There above us on a hill in relief -against the starlit sky stood the walls and gate of the little city. A -city of refuge indeed, and we realized that night, a little at least, -of the joy of the hunted, who, closely pursued by the avenger of blood, -found himself safe within protecting walls. The gates were hospitably -open as our messenger had arrived, and we were expected. - -We were told that it was a custom in many towns in the north to set a -lamp in each doorway as a token of welcome to expected guests who for -any reason were persons of importance. As we passed down the street and -saw these bright little beacons before each door our hearts were deeply -touched. Although it was too late for a formal audience, and the gate -of the magistracy was closed, my husband insisted on being admitted at -once. The request was granted and he hurried in and began the usual -ceremony of introducing himself, when a familiar voice exclaimed, “And -don’t you know me?” Then for the first he looked closely into the face -of the official before him, and found that he was an old friend from -Seoul, who had often been entertained at our house. - -All was now easy. The events of the morning were carefully related, -with the request that the police should be sent at once to rescue and -bring back our people, reclaim our goods and arrest, if possible, -the criminals. This he promised to do at once, and in fulfillment, -immediately ordered up the hunters, a guild of brave men who know -the woods and mountains for miles around, and who fear nothing. His -spokesman then called out to them in loud tones, which thrilled through -the clear starlit night, the order to go at once, find and arrest the -robbers, and bring safely our attendants and goods in three days’ time, -or lose their heads. To which they replied in a sort of chant in a -minor key that they would so arrest, reclaim, and bring back in three -days’ time or would lose their heads. The last syllable long drawn, -rolled, rippled, and re-echoed, seeming to die away somewhere among -the stars. The condition about the loss of their heads was, of course, -merely for rhetorical effect, or very likely the echo of an old custom, -the address and reply being probably a form hundreds of years old. -At any rate, though they returned after three days had passed, their -mission not fully accomplished, there was no talk of beheading, or -thought of it in any quarter. - -It may be noted that not much has been told in this chapter of -Christian work and its results, but it must be remembered that -conditions were somewhat unfavorable. Owing to the fears of our -American minister, Mr. Underwood had been forbidden to preach in the -country at this time, so that his work was limited to studying the -country and the people and their possibilities, laying plans for future -work, examining, instructing and encouraging converts and supervising -and testing the work of native helpers. As for me, the effort to make -a favorable impression through the treatment of the sick and the -distribution of tracts was the limit of my usefulness. - - - - -CHAPTER V - - Our Stay in Wewon--We Give a Dinner--Our Guests--Magistrates - Propose that we Travel with a Chain-Gang--Our Trip down - the Yalu--The Rapids--Contrast between Korean and Chinese - Shores--We Enter Weju--The Drunken Magistrate--Presents - and Punishments--Unpleasant Experiences with Insincere - People--Rice Christians--The Scheming Colporter--The Men - Baptized in Weju--The Lost Passport--Another Audience at the - Palace--Queen’s Dress and Ornaments--Korean Summer House--The - Pocket Dictionary--Our Homes. - - -Here, then, in the hospitable little town of Wewon we rested, made -friends whom we hoped to draw into the friendship of our Leader, and -ministered to sick bodies and souls, as opportunity was given. Here in -a few days were brought our boxes and a few of the men who had attacked -us. Still later, for they were unable to travel for some time, came our -poor attendants, who had twice been cruelly beaten with clubs and left -tied up all night in a painful and agonizing position. The mapoo’s arm -was broken, and our helper never entirely recovered from the injury his -back had suffered. Those of the criminals who were found were sent up -to the provincial capital to be punished by the governor. - -Before leaving Wewon we gave a dinner to the magistrate in order to -gratify his curiosity and that of his friends. We wished to show in -some way our appreciation of his kindness and hospitality, and Mr. -Underwood, who had considerable experience and much skill in camp and -bachelor cooking, undertook, in the face of some odds, to manage the -matter; and we found our ingenuity well taxed in evolving a feast from -the now scanty remnants of our larder and the few obtainable native -articles out of which a foreign meal could be manufactured. However, -we prided ourselves that we did quite well, with some six courses, -including soup, fish, a bewitching little roast pig, well decorated -with wreaths and berries, served with apple sauce and stuffed with -potatoes, chestnuts and onions. Our dessert, marmalade spread on -crackers, was sufficiently light to please the most æsthetic, and we -introduced a novelty, coffee sweetened with honey, never whispering -that our sugar was gone. The magistrate came with a huge crowd of -retainers, who filled our tiny room and flowed over into the kitchen, -peered into and fingered everything, and nearly wrecked the courses, -which our overtried servant was attempting under many difficulties to -serve. With nothing but a bowl of charcoal in lieu of a stove, and no -proper kitchen utensils, it was by no means easy to achieve such a feat -of culinary art in the far interior of the hermit kingdom, but we did -not stop to consider a little inconvenience or bother, nor regret a -little extra work where we could thereby make or strengthen friendship -with Koreans. Trifling as it may look for missionaries to be planning -_menus_ and giving dinners to country magistrates, there are more ways -of furthering the cause than preaching only. The hearts of the people -must be won, and he who wins most friends wins the readiest and most -attentive audience, one inclined in advance to favor and accept what he -has to teach, and nothing is trifling which helps. - -After the return of our men and belongings, and as soon as the former -were able to travel, we felt we must hurry on to Weju. The magistrate -of Wewon proposed that when we departed, the eight criminals who had -been captured should be chained together, two and two, and led in -advance of our company during the rest of our journey. Thus should we -march through the land like conquerors, instilling awe and terror in -all hearts, and none who looked on this tableau would ever again dare -assail a foreigner. Now this was of course exactly the impression that -we wished to produce as missionaries! We pictured ourselves going about -preaching the cross, with such an object lesson as this, trying to win -the hearts of the people, while driving their compatriots before us in -chains, and we enjoyed the vision hugely. It would hardly have been -possible to have obtained the relief of our Koreans without the arrest -of the criminals, several of whom were identified as notorious men, -whose seizure was necessary to the peace and safety of the community. -But we never would have had them punished on our own account or to -gratify revenge, so we politely thanked the magistrate for his tactful -suggestion, but begged to be excused. - -We found the town of Chosan, where we stopped on the evening after -leaving Wewon, quite a unique and interesting little place. It is -situated near the Yalu, or, as the Chinese call it, the Amno River, -which forms the boundary line between Korea and China. Two “_kisus_,” -a sort of soldier police, were sent out three miles to meet us, and -preceded us into the town, blowing trumpets all the way, to our -helpless annoyance and disgust, for they either could not or would not -understand that this sort of demonstration was most distasteful to us -both. - -As at Kangai, more and more soldiers met us at intervals. There were -flags, music, crowds, and again we entered the town like a circus. The -crowds, however, were kept well back, the place was much smaller, and -we were undisturbed at the magistracy. As soon as we entered the house -a small tray was brought, with cups of hot ginger tea, most restful and -refreshing, the kind thought of the magistrate, who, unlike others, did -not force himself at once upon us, but considerately waited until we -were a little rested and refreshed. We found here a custom which we had -not met elsewhere, that of sounding a bell every morning at a certain -hour, when all morning fires must be extinguished, not to be relit -until late in the afternoon. - -We were compelled to go on some miles farther to obtain a boat for our -short trip down the Yalu. In rainy weather the rapids between this -point and Weju are rather dangerous, but at this time it was only a -swift current, which made the trip the pleasanter. We found a Korean -junk, which served our purpose as well as any that were to be had, -which was flat-bottomed, and thirty feet long by three wide. This would -carry our attendants, our packs, two or three boatmen and ourselves. -Some mats were rigged on bamboo poles above us for an awning, and -others stretched across the middle of the boat for a partition, which -left one half for the use of the natives, while we reserved the other -for ourselves. Here we spent three days and nights; during the latter, -however, we always anchored near the shore. Provisions in plenty were -obtained from the villages we passed, when a great many people came out -to kugung; but here we had the advantage, and while quite able to talk -to them from the boat, were not forced to permit more than we liked to -examine us and our belongings. - -One night we were wakened with the cry of “Pull, pull!” “Fire, fire!” -and found the boat was on fire. Some one had fallen asleep while -smoking and dropped hot ashes among combustibles; but we were close to -the shore, there was plenty of water and people to use it. The blaze -was soon out, and nothing thrilling came to pass. Thus was it ever with -our adventures. While danger in one form or another made itself known, -as if to prove beyond a doubt our Father’s care, we were kept as safe -and unharmed as a child in its mother’s arms; and were we not with the -everlasting arms underneath us? - -As we drifted down the Amno those lovely spring days, with China -lying on one side of us and Korea on the other, the contrast was -wonderfully marked, almost as much, indeed, as if the two nations had -been separated by oceans rather than a river. This difference too was -almost as marked in the physical features of the country as in national -customs. On the Korean shore the trees were mostly of pine; on the -China side, of oaks and other deciduous varieties. The Korean peasants’ -huts were of mud, straw thatched; the Chinese houses of brick or stone, -roofed with tile. Koreans dressed in white were plowing with oxen; -Chinese farmers in blue were plowing with horses. Rhododendrons gave -a lovely roseate tinge to the rocks and hills on either side. It was -easy for the passing traveler to see which country bore the greater -appearance of prosperity and thrift. - -On the evening of the 27th of April we reached Weju. Fortunately no -official notice had gone before, and there were no trumpets, drums, -harps, sackbuts, psalteries and all kinds of music at hand to make our -lives a burden. A chair was hired for Mr. Underwood, and in the kindly -protection of the deepening twilight we surreptitiously entered these -conveyances and were carried into the city as quietly and unobtrusively -as happy common folks. - -And now, to return a little, soon after leaving Pyeng Yang we had met -a Mr. Yi, of Weju, an agent of the Bible Society, then on his way to -Seoul; but when he heard where we were going he concluded to return -with us. Mr. Underwood was at that time trying to decide whether -Weju or Pyeng Yang would be the better place for a sub-station, with -a half-formed plan to purchase a house, to which we could go when -itinerating, in charge of which we might place a care-taker, who would -also be helper, intending to select from among the converts in that -region, if possible, one of the most capable and earnest. This plan -was in part communicated to Mr. Yi, and seemed to strike him most -favorably. He shortly proposed to precede us to Weju and select such -a place. Mr. Underwood, however, told him plainly that he must on no -account purchase or promise to purchase any such house for us; that, as -our plans were indefinite, we could not buy until we had seen the city -and the Christians, and, in a word, until we had some data by which to -decide whether we needed such a house there at all. And even then the -locality and the house must first be seen by us. - -We, however, consented that he should go in advance and arrange at -some inn or Christian home for our entertainment, so that we could be -quietly and quickly housed on entering the town. We also consented -that some inquiries should be made as to what houses in localities -convenient for work were purchasable, and at what price, so that -we might have something definite to consider on reaching there. -Accordingly he left us before we reached Kangai and hurried on to Weju. -When we arrived, therefore, he met us and conducted us with much éclat -to a very commodious and nice bungalow, which he said was his own. Here -we were introduced to his consumptive wife, his aged father, and his -little children. - -According to custom, we sent our passport to the magistrate as soon as -we arrived. This scarcely reached his office before an order was sent -out for the arrest of our servants and helper, who were forthwith -dragged off to the yamen, beaten and locked up. We had hardly received -this disconcerting news when it was announced that some messengers had -arrived from his excellency with a very generous present of chickens, -eggs, nuts, fruit and other edibles. These articles again had barely -been received and the messengers not well out of sight when officers -arrived with orders to arrest our host and have him beaten. This very -contradictory conduct was certainly disquieting, and we were at a loss -to conjecture what it meant. - -[Illustration: A BUTCHER SHOP] - -[Illustration: BASKET SHOP] - -However, we had not long to wait. The deputy or vice-magistrate -was shortly afterwards announced, and before he left, he gave Mr. -Underwood to understand that his honor the magistrate had been imbibing -rather freely and was not altogether responsible for his honorable -(?) conduct, and that he, the deputy, hoped, therefore, that we -would overlook his slight playfulness in arresting and beating our -poor innocent people. These little aberrations were, he said, quite -frequent, and of course when once we understood what was to be expected -and the reason, no concern need be felt. We were, of course, immensely -comforted and soothed by this explanation, and rested with quiet minds -in the happy consciousness that it was entirely uncertain what sort of -magisterial and honorable earthquake or cyclone might strike us next; -assured it would be all right, as he intended no harm in his sane -moments. The poor deputy, in a strait betwixt two (the magistrate near -at hand, and the Foreign Office in Seoul, represented by our passport), -had been trying to smooth over the magistrate’s uncivil reception of -the passported foreigners, by offerings of said chickens, eggs, etc., -and this was the explanation of the strange combination of presents and -punishments. - -Drunkenness is, I am sorry to say, very common in Korea. The people -do not, as in Japan and China, raise tea, and even the wealthiest have -apparently only recently learned the use of either tea or coffee, which -the common people are far too poor to buy. Milk, strange to say, they -have never used, and they are therefore without a harmless beverage -which they can offer their friends on convivial occasions. As it is, -they resort only too generally to wines and some very strong alcoholic -drinks, which they make themselves. - -We had had Christian workers at Weju for some months, one of whom Mr. -Underwood had appointed and two who had constituted themselves such, of -whom we were doubtful then, and later had cause to be more so, and who -now hoped to prove themselves so useful to us that we would give them -some good-paying position in the mission. Several of our experiences -at Weju were very bitter and disappointing to us, for the insincerity -of men whom we trusted was made clear, and yet at the same time they -were instructive, for they taught us to be very slow and cautious in -investing men with responsibility, and to be very guarded both in -receiving converts and in using money, and helped to strengthen us in -those ideas of rigid self-support which Mr. Underwood had already, -from the study of Dr. Nevius’ book, begun to consider deeply and to -some extent follow. One of the self-appointed begged us to start a -Christian school in a place where as yet there was no opening for it, -and to put him in as teacher with a good salary. “But,” Mr. Underwood -objected, “we are not yet ready for such a school, and I cannot start -a school merely to give you a living.” Such unconcern for his material -interest grieved him sorely. Long he pleaded his need and begged with -great naïveté that we would then inform him how he was to subsist, with -refreshing guilelessness rolling the whole of the responsibility of his -existence upon us. We were obliged to tell him with some emphasis that -we were not here to provide incomes for indolent men, but to further -the gospel. - -Another man whom we had trusted had given us altogether exaggerated, -and we feared intentionally false, accounts of the interest in Kangai, -of which we had failed to find any signs. He did not suppose we would -go there to verify the reports which were to accrue to his credit. -But another and still more annoying experience awaited us. The agent -Yi told us that the house we were in belonged to us, that in spite of -our repeated injunctions he had bought it for us, and had sold his own -little home in part payment and installed his family here. This was now -the only shelter of his aged father, his sick wife and his helpless -little ones. The scheming fellow had indeed placed us in a serious -predicament. To turn these weak and helpless people into the street -for the sins of this man was not to be thought of; to allow the man -to profit by his dishonest trick would be to encourage every covetous -hypocrite who sought to make gain out of the church and to misuse -consecrated funds. Fortunately within ten days after a sale the money -or deeds may be demanded back, and so we made him ask back his own -house and return the one we had used, with a slight extra payment, to -the original owner. It is due to the British Bible Society to say that -they were of course deceived in this man, as we are all liable to be at -times, no matter how careful. The distance from his employers at which -he was working made supervision almost impossible. - -We were visited by a great many people, mostly men, who seemed deeply -interested in Christianity and eager for baptism. Over one hundred -such applicants presented themselves. Mr. Underwood examined them with -great care, and found that all had studied the Scriptures and tracts -with great assiduity, and nearly all were well informed in the cardinal -truths of the gospel. One man was quite a phenomenon of a rather -useless kind of Biblical erudition. He knew the number of chapters and -verses in the Old and New Testament (Chinese, of course), the number -of characters, the number of times the name of God and Christ occur, -and a variety of similar facts, showing he had an extremely facile -memory, but proving nothing with regard to his conversion. I could not -help regarding the poor man with compassion. It seemed too bad that he -should have taken so much pains and spent so many hours of toil to gain -non-essentials when the sweet bread of life and honey out of the rock -might have been had so simply and easily, had he only really wanted -them, had he learned enough of their wondrous value to desire them. -I am afraid that this man and some of the others that we questioned -had no inkling of what Christianity really is, but supposed it was a -philosophy, fine and good, no doubt, which if adopted would bring them -in touch with rich and influential foreigners, and find them speedy -employment as teachers, helpers and what not. - -What we anxiously, longingly sought for in these applicants were the -signs of a sincere change of heart, of a real love for the God who was -crucified to save them, and of the fruit of this belief in a change -of life and character. Out of the hundred applicants we selected -thirty-three, not those who answered most glibly or showed the greatest -information, but those who gave almost unmistakable evidence of -sincerity of heart and true knowledge of Jesus. I say almost, for it is -well-nigh impossible not to make mistakes at times. - -We had been forbidden to baptize in Korea, under our passport, and we -all crossed the river into China, and there held a communion service, a -very solemn and deeply felt occasion to us, and Mr. Underwood baptized -these men, the only ones baptized during the whole trip, a larger -number than he ever received before, or after that, for some years. -These numbers, rather large so early in the history of the mission, -were afterward much exaggerated by rumor. No one was able to visit this -little company of newborn souls for two years. No response from the -church at home to urgent pleas for help; exacting demands of work in -Seoul, sickness which took us to America, made it impossible for any -one to go and strengthen, encourage and uphold them. With no pastor, -few books but Chinese, they were sadly neglected, and humanly speaking, -it would hardly be surprising if they were scattered and lost as sheep -without a shepherd. We had hoped to visit them at least once a year, -but had no idea how the work near home would grow and how impossible -it would be to leave. These men were not of the city of Weju, but from -some little hamlets at some distance, some of them fifteen or twenty -miles away. Several of the men were already well known to Mr. Underwood -and had been under instruction for more than a year, and some had been -reported ready for baptism by Mr. Saw, who had been employed by Mr. -Ross when he came to Seoul three years before. - -This is to show that a horde of new professors, of whom we knew -nothing, were not rashly baptized in zeal to increase the list of -church-members, as was stated by persons who were ignorant of the real -facts. All were rigidly examined, all had been long prepared, and -although two missionaries who paid a visit to Weju on their way to -China two years later, and one who made a long stay eight or nine years -later, said they found none of these Christians, we believe God was -able to keep his own. It would not be easy, knowing neither the names -of the men nor the villages where they lived, to find them, especially -when we remember the roving, almost nomadic character of the people, -most of whom had probably moved quite away, the Japanese war having -worked marvelous changes. More than half of the population of Weju and -vicinity seemed to melt away during that disastrous war. - -When our work in Weju was done we started on our return trip to many -waiting duties in the capital. The magistrate had not restored our -passport, so we sent for it, but it was not forthcoming. We waited some -time, and again meekly requested it; still it was withheld, and at -length we learned that on the night of our arrival the magistrate had -been in such an irresponsible condition that he had no recollection to -whose care he had confided it, and, in fact, _the passport was lost_. -This was indeed a serious state of affairs! To travel without one would -involve great risk, to wait for another from Seoul would take more -time than we could afford to spare. And, indeed, whether we should -believe that it was really lost, or that this was only the excuse of an -inimical magistrate who meant to detain us there for some dark purpose, -was a question. After some annoying delay, however, it was found and -duly returned, and with sad farewells from our friends, but with the -hope and intention of returning soon to feed these lambs of God’s fold -we left Weju, to _which we have never as yet been permitted to go back_. - -Mr. Underwood and I discussed long and earnestly on our return trip -the comparative merits of Pyeng Yang and Weju for the establishment -of a sub-station. In the one the opening was more hopeful, the other -held the more advantageous position. We at length concluded to leave -the matter open and allow future events to decide where we should -start our station. We returned to Seoul by the main road, with as few -delays as possible, and had an uneventful trip, troubled by no mobs or -robbers. The season was somewhat advanced and the inns were very hot, -but the country was beautiful, with many varieties of the loveliest -flowers. Lilies of the valley we found growing in masses not ten feet -from the roadside, lilacs, eglantine, sweet violets and quantities of -other sweet-scented flowers filled my chair. We found ourselves safely -at home near the middle of May, having been absent over two months, -traveled more than a thousand miles, treated over six hundred patients, -and talked with many times that number. - -We were dismayed to find on our return that one of the too loyal -missionaries had, in supposed obedience to the edict, closed the little -room, where services had been held with the natives, and they were -worshiping secretly in one or another of their own little homes. We at -once threw open our own house and regularly gathered the Christians -there, till all the mission were willing to use the little chapel again. - -Shortly after our return the queen invited me to a private audience, in -order to give me a very unique pair of gold bracelets, which she had -ordered made for a wedding present, and which had not been ready before -we went to the country. She also gave a ring set with a beautiful -pearl for my husband. She kindly asked about our trip, and was, as -usual, all that was friendly and considerate. I wish I could give the -public a true picture of the queen as she appeared at her best, but -this would be impossible, even had she permitted a photograph to be -taken, for her charming play of expression while in conversation, the -character and intellect which were then revealed, were only half seen -when the face was in repose. She wore her hair like all Korean ladies, -parted in the center, drawn tightly and very smoothly away from the -face and knotted rather low at the back of the head. A small ornament -(indicating her rank, I suppose, as I have never seen any other woman -wear one) was worn on the top of the head; fastened by a narrow black -band. One or two very ornamental long hairpins of gold filigree set -with coral, pearls or jewels were stuck through the knot of hair at the -back. She usually wore a yellow silk _chogerie_, or jacket waist, like -those worn by all Korean women, fastened with a pearl or amber button -and a very long flowing blue silk skirt. All her garments were of silk, -exquisitely dainty. - -Her majesty seemed to care little for ornaments, and wore very few. No -Korean women wear earrings (except young girls in the north, who wear -a large silver hoop), and the queen was no exception, nor have I ever -seen her wear a necklace, a brooch, or a bracelet. She must have had -many rings, but I never saw her wear more than one or two of European -manufacture, set with not so many nor so large diamonds as numbers of -American women of moderate means and station often display. She had any -number of beautiful watches, which she never wore. According to Korean -custom, she carried a number of filigree gold ornaments decorated -with long silk tassels fastened at her side. So simple, so perfectly -refined were all her tastes in dress, it is difficult to think of her -as belonging to a nation called half civilized. - -On the occasion of this visit she gave me a fresh proof of her -thoughtful kindness. I was wearing my wedding dress and very thin satin -slippers, and as I was leaving it suddenly began to rain. My chair -was nearly half a mile distant, waiting outside the gate, according -to rule. The queen, whom nothing escaped, noted the rain, and my -difficulty. She came in person to the window and imperatively ordered -word to be sent to the gate for my chair to be brought to the waiting -room. - -[Illustration: PLEASURE HOUSE. PAGE 22] - -But this was too much. The officials who attended me there said that -such an exception as this in my favor would awaken bitter criticism -and jealousy, that one of the highest officials in the land was at -that moment waiting at the gate for the shower to pass so that he -could attend at an audience, and would be obliged to walk through the -rain. They therefore begged that I would wave the fulfilment of the -queen’s order and walk to my chair. I saw the reason and the good sense -in their protest, and of course at once consented, as much comforted -by the queen’s kind intention as if my slippers and silk gown had -been well protected. This rule for the exclusion of chair coolies -was changed soon after, and my chair was brought close to the royal -apartments. - -That summer was passed on a high bluff on the banks of the river, in a -Korean summer house, which belonged to the king, which their majesties -had allowed our mission to use a previous year, and which favor was -now extended to us. It was situated on the rocks about fifty feet -above the water, and was one of those charming, cool and picturesque -summer refuges which Koreans understand building to perfection. Its -roof, with artistically upward curving corners, was supported on -several stout pillars, but its walls were all windows of light wood, -in fancy open-work designs, which were covered with paper on one side, -and which, being made to swing out and hook to the roof, formed a -very effective awning. Here with a breeze always sweeping through, -effectively screened from the sun, with a perfect view of the mountains -and the Han River, with its lovely green valley, Mr. Underwood worked -nearly all summer on his small dictionary, Mr. Gale or Mr. Hulbert -giving him much useful help at times. My husband had been at work on a -larger dictionary, which he planned to make a very full and complete -one, for nearly three years, and had already many thousands of -definitions of words with synonyms. It was to be both Korean-English -and English-Korean, not like the French, merely the Korean into the -foreign tongue. It was a darling scheme of his heart, on which he was -putting all the time that could be spared from direct mission work; but -persuaded by his brethren that something was sorely needed immediately -by missionaries now beginning to arrive, he laid his _magnum opus_ -aside for the present, not without regret, but without a backward look, -and working without cessation from early dawn into the night hours all -that long summer, prepared and finished the small dictionary, for the -convenience at the present indigent moment of those who were struggling -with the language. - -The following fall, the loved secretary, Dr. Mitchell, and Mrs. -Mitchell visited our mission and gave us all much advice and help, for -which we were most grateful. We were not then quite so well housed as -now. Our homes were mud-walled and rather damp, often leaking badly in -rainy season and admitting much frosty air through numerous cracks in -the winter. Many of our windows were not glazed, but merely covered -with paper. During the doctor’s visit there came one night a heavy -storm of wind and rain, which beat against the window near our bed, -and thoroughly demolished it, the rain pouring in on the floor. The -roof leaked over us, but with umbrellas and waterproofs we kept quite -dry. In the morning, however, at the sight of the flooded floor and -the paper windows hanging in shreds, Dr. Mitchell gave us a severe -reprimand for our carelessness, warning us that missionaries are far -too expensive commodities to be so ill protected. A lesson it were well -for all young missionaries to learn, but which, as a rule, alas! they -are too slow to heed. - - - - -CHAPTER VI - - An Audience at the Palace--Dancing Girls--Entertainment Given - after the Audience--Printing the Dictionary and Grammar--A - Korean in Japan--Fasting to Feast--Death of Mr. Davies--Dr. - Heron’s Sickness--Mrs. Heron’s Midnight Ride--Dr. Heron’s - Death--Difficulty in Getting a Cemetery Concession--Forced - Return to America--Compensations--Chemulpo in Summer--The “Term - Question” in China, Korea and Japan--Difficulties in the Work. - - -Early in the fall of 1889 I was invited to another audience at the -palace, with some of the foreign state officials and their wives. -After the audience a dinner was served, and later, a performance by -dancing girls was given. And right here I must say, that although on -several occasions at the palace I have seen dancing girls in these -entertainments, I have never beheld anything at such times in their -actions that was improper or even undignified. Their motions are -graceful, usually slow, circling around hand in hand or in various -combinations of pretty figures. They wear high-necked and long-sleeved -jackets or coats, and long skirts, the figure quite concealed by the -fashion of the dress. And yet, thus to appear in public, allowing their -faces to be seen by strangers, is the gravest breach of propriety in -the eyes of all Koreans, and these girls are, alas! as depraved as -women can be. Like those of their class in all countries, they are the -most pitiable and hopeless of women, but unlike those who have thrown -themselves away, they deserve small blame mixed with the compassion one -feels for them, for these poor girls have been sold by their parents -into their awful lives, and were given no choice of their destiny. Many -a poor little Korean child is sold into slavery for a few bags of rice, -to be trained as a dancing girl, used as a common drudge, or married to -a man she has never seen, while she is hardly larger than our little -ones playing with their dolls in the nursery. - -But to return to our palace entertainment, from which I have made a -rather long digression. The guests were seated on the veranda, or -“maru,” in front of the dining hall, and in the grounds before us -appeared a pretty boat with wide spread sails, in which were seated -some gaily dressed girls. Others now appeared, dancing to slow native -music, a stately figure, almost in minuet fashion, with waving of -flowing sleeves and banners. They were evidently the spirits of the -wind, and the boat was waiting the favoring breeze. The music grew -quicker, while faster and faster stepped the dancers, more and more -swiftly fanning the sails with sleeves, skirts and scarfs, till at last -the boat slowly moved forward, and with its attendants moved out of -sight. When the boat had been thus gracefully fanned away, a couple of -mammoth lotus plants were brought out, with great closed blossoms seen -among the leaves. - -Following them came a pair of gigantic storks, extremely well -simulated. The birds came forward slowly, advancing, retreating, -sideling, mincing, waiving their heads and long bills about, all in -tune to the music, wavering and uncertain, yet evidently with some -definite, not to be resisted, purpose in mind. At length, after long -hesitation, one of them plucked up courage and gave a vigorous peck -at a lotus bud, which forthwith burst open and released a pretty -little child, who had been curled up at its heart. The other stork, -with similar good fortune, discovered another little one. I was much -interested to find this stork and baby myth here in Korea, centuries -old; but those hoary nations of the East are ever reaching down into -the apparently limitless depths of their remote past, and dragging -forth some fresh surprise whereby to convince us there is nothing new -under the sun. - -Late in November of the same year we went to Japan to publish Mr. -Underwood’s grammar and dictionary, as there were no means of printing -such books in Seoul. In Japan we were forced to wait while type was -made, and during this delay Mr. Underwood perfected the grammar, adding -what is now the first part. A Korean teacher or scholar accompanied us, -but great was his distaste for Japan and all her ways, and herculean -our toils and efforts, as each steamer sailed to prevent his returning -to Korea. - -Rice is the staple article of food in China, Korea and Japan, but it -is cooked and eaten differently in all three countries, and no one -of either will, except under dire necessity, eat the rice prepared -by one of the other nationalities. Our literary assistant was of the -_Yangban_, or noble class, he had never soiled his hands in labor, or -cooked anything for himself, but after enduring a Japanese hotel with -many and doleful complaints for a very short time, he begged us to -find him a room and let him keep house for himself. That a _Yangban_ -should make a proposition like this showed to what straits he had been -brought, so we at once complied with his request, and from that time on -he prepared his rice with his own gentlemanly hands. He was a Chinese -scholar of fine attainments, and his learning was much respected in -high Japanese circles. He was often invited out, and was distinguished -by an invitation to the house of the governor of the city. - -Now, when Koreans attend a feast, they expect to finish an incredible -amount of food on the spot (nor is it altogether unusual, in addition, -to carry away as much in their sleeves and hands as strength will -permit). Sometimes they fast for several days previous in order to -do full justice to the entertainment, and generally, I believe, -quantity is considered of far more import than quality. Not so with -the Japanese, among whom our teacher visited. If his word was to be -believed, they had developed the æsthetic idea quite to the other -extreme, and provided a few tiny cups and dishes of supposedly delicate -and rare viands for their guests. So on this occasion to which I refer, -it was almost pathetic, the poor Korean fasting to feast, with visions -of quarts of rice and vermicelli soup, pounds of hot rice bread, nuts, -fruits, fresh, dried and candied; meats with plenty of hot sauce, -“_kimchi_,” or sauerkraut, etc., etc. Alack the day! A few microscopic -cups of tea, a few tiny dishes of articles which knew not Korea (among -them no doubt raw fish), and for the rest, a feast of reason and -flow of soul. Next day, a wiser and a thinner man, he sadly told Mr. -Underwood that he now understood why Japanese prospered, while Koreans -grew poor. “Koreans,” said he, “earn a hundred cash a day and eat a -thousand cash worth, while Japanese, on the contrary, earn a thousand -cash a day and eat a hundred cash worth.” Never were truer words -spoken, with regard to the Japanese at least. If these people have a -virtue, which their worst enemies cannot gainsay, it is their industry -and thrift. - -Just what is the ordinary number of slight earthquakes in Japan per -month or year, I do not know, but during the six months of our stay -they averaged one every three days. During one twenty-four hours of -our experience there were eleven. They were not, of course, severe, -but sufficient to swing doors, set chandeliers clattering and rocking -chairs in motion,, and to convince me more than once that the house was -on the point of tumbling about our ears. - -Just before we returned to Korea we were shocked to hear of the sudden -death by smallpox of Rev. Mr. Davies, a brother greatly beloved in the -Lord, who had arrived early the previous summer and had made phenomenal -progress in the language, whose gifts and learning were unusual, but -were all excelled by his spirituality and consecration. His zeal never -permitted him to spare himself in the least. He seemed to link himself -at once, heart to heart, with Mr. Underwood, and together they planned, -studied, worked and prayed for the salvation of the people. It was as -if death had entered our own family when news came of his loss, and a -black pall seemed to lie across our path. We knew God does all things -well, and his ways are not our ways, nor his thoughts ours, and yet in -the weakness of the flesh, which cannot see, with all those unsaved -millions dying around us, we felt we could not spare Mr. Davies, and to -us, to whom he had been confidant, sympathizer, counselor and friend, -the personal loss was bitter. But we have learned that often when we -think, or come in any way to feel that his cause depends on a man, God -removes him, to teach us that his cause depends on no man, that he can -bless the efforts of the weakest and poorest and feed five thousand -from the basket of a little boy. - -On April 26, 1890, the books were finished, and we started at once for -Korea, reaching here in May. Soon after our return from Japan we were -visited by Dr. and Mrs. Nevius. We all recognized Dr. Nevius as a king -among men, with a mind so clear and broad, a spirit so genial, a heart -so full of charity and with a record of such long years of faithful -labor that we were glad to sit at his feet. The sense of ignorance, -incompetence, inexperience, combined with a realization of awful -responsibility, is almost overwhelming to the young missionary on a new -field, and it is only by constantly leaning on the almighty arm that he -is kept from despondence and despair. At such times the advice of such -an elder brother is invaluable. - -The little missions had by this time been reinforced by several -arrivals, and the following summer, which was very warm, many of them -went to Namhan (Southern fortress) to spend the hot months. Seoul -lies in a basin, encircled by mountains, and is extremely unhealthy -in summer, its festering pools and ditches overflowing with filth, -steaming a very witches brew of evils upon the sickened air, with -odors unspeakable and undreamed of in civilized lands. Namhan is about -seventeen miles distant from Seoul, on top of a mountain, not quite -two thousand feet high. It lies on the further side of the Han River, -but is fairly easy of access, reached by a steep road winding up the -mountain. - -Dr. Heron had taken his family there, and frequently traveled back -and forth to his duties in Seoul, which was doubtless too much for -his strength in those hot and humid days. He was soon attacked by -dysentery, which did not at first seem serious, and was consequently -ignored too long. It finally developed into the most malignant form -of the disease, which resisted every effort of the physicians, Drs. -Scranton and MacGill, who were unremitting in the struggle in which -they were steadily worsted. As soon as the symptoms began to look grave -Mrs. Heron was sent for. In great distress and alarm, she set off that -very evening, in a terrible storm of rain and wind, a very carnival, no -torch or lantern could be kept alive, the wind howling around the frail -chair as if to tear it from its bearers’ hands. The roads, steep -and difficult in pleasant weather, were really dangerous when slippery -with mud and water, in darkness so absolute that not one step in -advance could be seen, while in the woods and valleys the coolies were -sometimes up to their waists in water. Drenched to the skin, this poor -afflicted young wife arrived at her home near morning, after traveling -all night in this terrible storm, to find her husband fatally ill. -After a little more than three weeks’ sickness and great suffering, -Dr. Heron passed away, to the grief and loss of the whole foreign -community, as well as that of the Koreans (and they were many) with -whom he had come in contact, to all of whom he had endeared himself by -untiring kindness. - -[Illustration: GATE IN THE WALL OF NAMHAN. PAGE 98] - -The government had never set aside any land for a foreign cemetery near -Seoul, although in accordance with the treaty they should have done so -long before. A strong superstition and very rigid law forbid the burial -of the dead within the city walls, and hitherto the few Europeans -who had died had been buried in the cemetery near Chemulpo. But to -carry remains thirty miles in the heat of July, to the port, with no -conveyances but chairs, to be forced to bury our dead so far away, -was unnecessary, inconvenient and expensive, as well as an additional -trial to hearts already sore. As soon, therefore, as Dr. Heron’s death -seemed inevitable, a request was made that the government would set -apart a place near the city for this purpose. This, with characteristic -procrastination, they failed to do. - -On the day of Dr. Heron’s death they offered a place which we found -altogether impossible, beyond the sand beds across the river, a -long distance off, in very low ground. It was then decided that as -something immediate must be done, we would make a temporary resting -place on a piece of ground belonging to our mission, where there was -a small house, occupied just then by Mr. Underwood’s and Dr. Heron’s -literary helpers. As soon as they heard of this plan they objected -most strongly, saying it was against the law, and as the body must be -carried through the streets to reach there, there would probably be a -good deal of excitement and trouble. - -We then ordered the grave dug on Dr. Heron’s compound, back of his -house, sending word to the Foreign Office that as they had provided no -other place, we were forced temporarily at least to make this disposal -of the remains. The time for the funeral was set for three o’clock, and -about a half hour before the literary helpers again came to us in a -state of the wildest excitement and terror, tearing their hair, weeping -and trembling. They averred that the people in that quarter were -planning to mob us all, to burn down their house, beat and kill them, -and very likely kill us too, if the body was buried within the walls. - -It seemed cruel that no place could be found where we could lay our -dead. Our hearts were torn with grief for the poor burdened sister, -who ought to have been able to claim a quiet and decent burial for -her dear one’s remains, as well as the sympathy of every one, that -she must be refused a place for his repose, and assailed by all this -wrangling and confusion. We were hotly indignant with the teachers, who -we thought ought to have risen above heathen superstition on their own -part and kept the secret from the people. It was now uncertain where -Dr. Heron’s remains could be laid, and they were therefore embalmed and -hermetically sealed. The Foreign Office, however, on hearing that it -was our intention to bury on the compound, at once came to terms and -gave us a large field on a fine bluff overlooking the river, about five -miles from Seoul. This was obtained through the indefatigable efforts -of Dr. Allen of the United States legation, who besieged the foreign -office and insisted on this concession. - -During all these months the work was steadily going forward; more -than we had dared to hope were added to the number of believers -and inquirers; a Bible translating committee, of which Dr. W. B. -Scranton of the M. E. Mission and Mr. Underwood were members, had been -appointed; a girls’ school in each of the two missions had been started -long before, and both were steadily growing (though the Methodists -were far in advance here), the boys’ orphanage had been changed to -a boys’ school, and hospital and dispensary work in both missions -was flourishing; with an increase of confidence of the people in our -friendship and trustworthiness. - -In the early fall a new member of the mission appeared in our family, -making life richer, in a measure absurdly disproportionate to his -dimensions and weight. Some months after this, sickness, growing more -and more threatening and intractable, followed, until the doctors’ -verdict was that a return to America was the only condition, and (that -a doubtful one) on which life could be saved. The kindness and goodness -of the whole community shown to me were beyond expression. Here in the -East, where the ordinary conveniences of large cities are not to be had -for money, where we are very dependent on each other’s kind offices, -mutual love and service draw and bind us very closely together. - -I was nursed, and friends and neighbors helped my husband pack away -our goods, for a year’s absence means that everything must be nailed -or locked or sealed up from mildew, moth, rust, rats and robbers. -Furniture must be compactly stowed away so that the house may be -occupied by other homeless missionaries waiting for an appropriation -for a house. They sewed for baby and me, and spared neither pains nor -trouble to help us. Two of the ladies, Mrs. Bunker and Miss Rothweiler, -went with us to Chemulpo, a journey which I made, carried by six -coolies to ensure steadiness, on a long steamer chair, stopping over -night, half way, at a primitive Japanese hotel. - -I can never tell with what regret, shame and pain I left Korea. I had -looked forward with pleasure to a return after a long period of years, -when the work had been well begun and the appointed time had come, -when something had been accomplished, but to go _now_, a _failure_, to -leave my work scarcely begun, perhaps never to return, was bitter. But -more bitter still was the thought that I was dragging my husband, in -the freshness of his health and vigor, back from a life of usefulness, -where workers were pitiably few and calls for help from all sides were -many and loud. Christian tracts and hymn books were needed, the Bible, -as yet not translated, the dictionary not half finished, schools to -be established, a fast growing band of Christians to be nourished and -taught, and when I thought of it all, it looked dark. - -But God brought a blessing out of it, as he always does from every -seeming misfortune, for through that return to America several -missionaries were obtained, a new mission established and greater -interest in Korea aroused in the minds of American, Canadian and -English Christians. - - “Man’s weakness waiting upon God its end can never miss, - For man on earth no work can do more angel-like than this. - He always wins who sides with God--to him no chance is lost; - God’s will is sweetest to him when it triumphs at his cost. - Ill that he blesses is our good, and unblest good is ill, - And all is right that seems most wrong, if it be His sweet will.” - -On our return to Korea most of the summer was spent at Chemulpo, as -our baby was very sick. We stopped in a so-called “hotel,” kept by -Chinamen. The long hot nights were rendered almost intolerable by the -noise and odors of such a place. From early in the evening till past -midnight we were tortured by the high falsetto singing of the actors -in a Chinese theatre across the street. The sailors returning to the -gunboats in the bay kept the dogs in fits of frenzied barking, which -would have effectually murdered sleep had it ever ventured near. By the -time the dogs had begun to regain their composure, the Japanese venders -of vegetables, fish, etc., with a devotion to business which under any -circumstances ought to have won high praise, began with loud strident -voices to call their wares under my window until it was time to rise -and face a new day. - -All day I brooded over my starving little son with an aching heart, -looking out across the long reaches of dreary mud flats to the sea, -watching for the steamer that was bringing the only food that he could -digest, and prayed it might not come too late. Day by day the little -life trembled in the balance, but at last the ship came in, and never -was argosy from the Indies laden with gems and treasures untold half so -welcome. Never could ship come to me with half so precious a cargo as -that which brought my baby strength and life. - -In the meanwhile Mr. Underwood toiled in the city, overseeing the -repairs on our house, for we must be builders, contractors, carpenters, -gardeners and jack of all trades, and throughout the summer working -unremittingly on a hymn book which the little church now greatly needed. - -The “term question” is a vexed problem which as yet has failed to find -a solution that secures the assent of all missionaries. This question -relates to the proper word to be used for God. China, Japan and Korea -alike use the Chinese characters and have words which mean “gods,” or -things worshiped, but they do not have either a definite article or -capitals, such as those by which in English we can change “gods” into -“the God” or “God.” They also have _names_ (quite a different matter) -signifying the chief god of heaven (Sangchai or Hannanim), the god of -earth (Tangnim) and others. - -Some missionaries hold that by using this name of the chief god of -heaven and explaining it by instructing the people in the character and -attributes of him whom they ignorantly worship, they will more easily -understand and more readily accept our teaching. Many also believe that -the name really refers to the great God of heaven, although of course -it is impossible to claim that it refers to the one only God, since all -the heathen who worship this one also worship countless other smaller -deities. - -On the other hand are those who conscientiously believe that the -personal name of a heathen deity should not in any way be applied to -the Eternal Jehovah, that such a course is in direct conflict with -God’s own word. Then aside from their convictions on this matter they -believe that the use of a heathen cognomen of one of these gods, be -he of heaven or earth, applied to the great “I am” may, in addition -to being forbidden, lead to dangerous mistakes in the minds of the -members of the infant native church. They believe, in short, that a -false thing can never be right, and that to address Jehovah by a name -not his, but another’s, cannot be right or result well in the end. This -view has been adopted by missionaries of all creeds in Japan, a large -minority of Protestants, and all Romanists in China, and by all the -Episcopalians and Romanists in Korea. They use the name Jehovah for -God. - -[Illustration: HOUSE USED BY MISSIONARIES ON TOP OF NAMHAN. PAGE 98] - -Almost the entire body of the Presbyterian and Methodist missionaries -in Korea, and a majority of them in China, belong to the other party, -although quite essentially different words are used by the Chinese -missionaries from those used in Korea. The Chinese use Sangchai; the -Koreans, Hannanim. - -It is with no controversial intent that this matter is referred to -here. It is indeed a vexed question, but one whose satisfactory -settlement is to be devoutly hoped for. No little feeling has been -awakened, because it is a question which has involved in the minds of -many some very deep principles. - -The only reason for referring to this matter is that men and women in -Christian lands may gain a little glimpse of some of the difficult and -perplexing problems which confront the workers in some of the mission -fields. These problems vary in different countries, but they all have -their difficulties. - -Immediately after our return Mr. James Gale’s Grammatical Forms was -published, and about a year later his Korean-English dictionary, so -that the mission was now supplied with several language helps. Much -stress had been laid from the first upon securing a thorough mastery -of Korean, and each missionary was required to pass three very rigid -annual examinations. A course of study for first, second and third -grades was made out for each year, to assist students, and members of -the examination committee and others were appointed to oversee and aid -the language study of the newcomers. - - -CHAPTER VII - - The Mission in 1893--“The Shelter”--Opening of Japanese - War--Seoul Populace Panic Stricken--Dr. and Mrs. Hall in Pyeng - Yang--Heroic Conduct of Native Christians--Condition of Pyeng - Yang after the War--Dr. Hall’s Death--Preaching the Gospel at - the Palace--The Queen Seeks to Strengthen Friendly Relations - with Europeans--Her Majesty’s Generosity--A Little Child at - the Palace--The Slaves of the Ring--A Christmas Tree at the - Palace--The Queen’s Beneficent Plans--The Post Office Emeute of - 1884--A Haunted Palace--The Murder of Kim Oh Kiun. - - -In the fall of 1893 we moved too early into a house recently repaired -and not yet completed, with wet mud walls and no windows fitted in some -of the rooms. It seemed a necessity, but resulted in continued sickness -through the entire winter for the little one and myself, so that I was -largely debarred from the good work going on among the Koreans. Many -of the middle and lower classes were coming into the church, men’s and -women’s meetings were well attended, and even the little boys in the -school seemed full of Christlike zeal, and spent some of their holiday -and play hours in telling the good tidings and distributing tracts. One -of our missionaries, Dr. Moffett, had been appointed to Pyeng Yang, -other appointments of Presbyterians to the same place soon following, -as well as that of Dr. and Mrs. Hall from the Methodist Mission. - -On my own part, a little, very interrupted medical work was done, and -women’s meetings were begun and carried on with great difficulty on -account of deficient knowledge of the language, but little by little, -in trying ever so lamely to use what I had, I rapidly gained more and -more, so that I could soon talk and pray with freedom, if not always -with perfect elegance and correctness, and as my chief aim was to be -understood by the Koreans, not to display myself as an accomplished -linguist, I was satisfied and happy when I had proof of this. Other -women by this time were prepared to do this work well, in all three -missions; and our poor native sisters were being reached in various -quarters. I had been invited to the palace several times, my child was -also asked there, and petted and loaded with kindness. - -The Bible translating committee had been enlarged and now included Rev. -H. G. Appenzeller (M. E.) and Mr. James S. Gale (Presby.), in addition -to Dr. Scranton and Mr. Underwood. Lesson leaves were prepared for our -Bible classes, and a number of tracts were being translated by various -missionaries. Before our return to America in 1891, and for some years -after, it was the cruel custom among wealthy natives to put servants, -dependents or strangers at once on the street, if afflicted with any -infectious disease, and it was the commonest occurrence to find poor -people lying by the roadside, either exposed to the bitterest blasts -of winter or the blazing heat of midsummer. Sometimes a friend or -relative had erected a rude hut of thatch over the sufferer, sometimes -a whole family together occupied such a hut, the dead and living lying -together. It was our heart’s desire to obtain in some way the means to -buy or build a hospital for such cases. While we were in America small -sums were put at odd times into our hands “for the work,” and as these -sums increased we decided to use the money for this long-cherished -purpose. - -Soon after our return, we were able, at a very low price, to buy a -beautiful piece of ground on a breezy hillside, covered with fine -trees and with a good tiled house having six or seven rooms. This -was large enough for our present purpose, and money in hand was not -sufficient to build the sort of hospital of which we dreamed. So we -repaired the old building and added a caretaker’s quarters. We made the -institution undenominational, arranging that any one might place cases -of infectious disease there, which should be attended by any doctor -desired. At the same time a little dispensary, given in memory of her -only son by Mrs. Hugh O’Neil, of New York, was opened not far from the -“Shelter,” as it was called, on the main road to the north. Here, in -addition to medical work in a small way, women’s Bible classes were -held, men’s and women’s evening prayer meetings, and often Sabbath -morning services. July of 1894 saw the beginning of the China-Japan war -in Korea, and the capture of Seoul by the Japanese. We were awakened -one morning by the sound of firing, and soon learned that the palace -was in possession of the Japanese. Excitement rose quite high among -both foreigners and natives. - -All the legations ordered up troops from the port where our gunboats -lay, for our protection, although it is difficult to see how, in a -case of serious danger, such small numbers would be of any service. -There were fifty Russians, forty Americans, forty English and nine -German marines. The natives, high and low, were in a state of panic. -The nobility fled from their homes in large numbers and in all sort -of disguises, and sought refuge at the foreign legations, or in the -country; and to the country the common people started _en masse_. Every -shop was closed, the city had the look of a plague-infested place. A -solemn procession of men, women, chairs, pack-ponies, a continuous -throng, in dead silence, with rapid steps, and set, terror-stricken -faces, poured through the main thoroughfares and out of the gates. -Many pathetic little groups were to be seen; little children, whose -parents in wild fear had deserted or lost them in the crowd, trotting -along with tear-stained faces, alone; women with babies on their backs -and babies hanging at their skirts; men carrying all their worldly -goods on their shoulders, here and there coolies with the chair of -some frightened rich man or fine lady, shoving aside the crowd. High -and low, rich and poor, hurrying away from the dreaded Japanese, the -ancient enemy of their nation. How it made one realize the great -multitude of unsaved peoples, pushing its way along the broad road and -through the wide gate that leads to destruction. “And when he beheld -the multitudes he had compassion on them as sheep having no shepherd.” -The servants in every family gave notice; they dared not stay, they -said, since to remain would be to be killed by Chinese or Japanese. We -reminded them that we were neither afraid nor making any preparations -for flight, and at last only persuaded some of them to remain by -promising that we would never go and leave them, which we had fully -decided upon on account of the native Christians. - -Some very exciting and trying events had in the meanwhile been taking -place in Pyeng Yang. In the previous May Dr. William James Hall of the -M. E. Mission took his wife and baby to that city to start a station, -and to take up a permanent residence. They were almost mobbed by the -curious throngs, whom they were unable to control. No police could be -obtained from the governor, who in addition, on the second or third day -after their arrival, arrested and threw into jail Dr. Hall’s helper and -the man from whom he had bought his house. This is the approved method -of forcing a man to give up a house or piece of ground to which he -holds a good title, but which Korean officials object, for any reason, -to his keeping. - -Dr. Hall had selected this property because it was in a thickly -populated part of the town, where he believed he could do most good, -but he had positively refused to pay a tax, which former owners had -always paid to a certain devil-worship and sorceress house in the -vicinity. - -Dr. Moffett’s helper and the former owner of his house were also cast -in jail, and his native Christians cruelly beaten, at the time when -Dr. Hall’s men were seized. It was evident missionaries were not to be -tolerated in Pyeng Yang. One or two other M. E. native Christians were -then also arrested and beaten. Dr. Moffett was in the capital, and the -Halls were quite alone in this large town, among many enemies, several -days’ journey from Seoul and help. The situation was grim. Dr. Hall was -obliged to leave his helpless wife and baby alone in the unprotected -house while he visited the governor, or the Chinese telegraph office -(both long distances away), or in trying to relieve or help the -Christians in the jail. - -As soon as his first message arrived in Seoul, a general meeting -of all the missionaries was called at our house for united prayer -for the Halls and our poor tortured native brethren. Dr. Scranton, -Dr. Moffett and Mr. Underwood at once hastened to the American and -English legations, and obtained through them an order from the Foreign -Office to the governor, to release the Christians and pay damages -for the injured property. Although this was wired at once to Pyeng -Yang, the only apparent result was that the natives were more cruelly -beaten and water-carriers forbidden to take water to the Halls, their -house stoned and the walls torn down. The natives bore their cruel -treatment heroically, and refused to give up their faith; they were -then removed to the death cell, and the governor sent them word of his -intention to execute them. Two despatches from Seoul had been received -by the governor, but still no signs of change. In the meanwhile it -was decided that some of the missionaries from Seoul should go to -Dr. Hall’s help. Mr. Moffett claimed the right to go, as his native -Christians were there in trouble, and Mr. McKenzie, from Canada, was -allowed to accompany him, being an unmarried man, although several -others stoutly urged the best reasons why they should go, like boys -begging for a holiday rather than men going to face a very serious and -doubtful situation. - -We all feared that Dr. and Mrs. Hall, as well as the Christians’ lives, -would be sacrificed to the malice of the mob and the governor before -sufficient influence could be brought to bear by our legations through -the Foreign Office to save them. By the time the two men from Seoul -had arrived there, however, five days later, the Christians had been -released, after being again badly beaten and stoned. Dr. and Mrs. -Hall for a month following treated patients and preached the Word, -but when war seemed imminent they were ordered back to Seoul, where -they returned, as well as Mr. McKenzie, Dr. Moffett following somewhat -later, having lingered as long as possible to encourage and hearten the -Christians. Pyeng Yang was now in the hands of the Chinese, and Seoul -in those of the Japanese. The summer was a very hot and unhealthy one, -and there was scarce a family among the foreigners where there was not -one or more cases of severe and prostrating sickness. Two little ones -died, and there were long hours of agonized watching, when dear lives -seemed for hours to be slipping over the brink. None of us could leave -the city to seek for purer air or water, no pure milk could be had, and -one poor young father, whose little child was literally starving for -digestible nourishing food, remembering his father’s farm with its good -milk cows, remarked pathetically, “In my father’s house there is food -enough and to spare, while I perish with hunger.” - -On the first of October, after the defeat of the Chinese, the -Presbyterian missionaries and Dr. Hall returned to Pyeng Yang to look -after the interests of the stations left so long, in a city which had -passed through such a hard experience. - -Pyeng Yang was in a fearfully unhealthy condition. One of the -missionaries wrote, “The decaying bodies of men, horses and cattle were -so numerous, that no matter whatever direction we went we came across -them constantly, so that the atmosphere was foul beyond expression.” -Another wrote, “In one place I counted over twenty bodies, literally -piled one on top of another, lying just as they had been shot down.... -In another place, where a body of Manchurian cavalry ran into an ambush -of Japanese infantry, the carnage was frightful, several hundred bodies -of men and horses lying just as they had fallen made _a swath of bodies -nearly a quarter of a mile long and several yards wide_. It was three -weeks after the battle and the bodies were all there unmolested.” - -According to a native superstition that the city is a boat, and to -dig wells would sink the boat, there were no wells in Pyeng Yang; but -a large number of bodies of men and horses were lying in the river, -polluting for weeks the only water supply. In this dreadful situation -our brave missionaries remained and worked, and on October 17th Dr. -Hall wrote the following cheerful words, “We have very interesting -services, the hymns of praise that less than a year ago brought cursing -and stones are now listened to with delight, and carry with them a -feeling of security similar to the sound of a policeman’s whistle in -New York. Comparatively few of the Koreans have returned to their -homes, but every day brings fresh additions. Every day numbers of those -who have returned and those from the surrounding villages and towns -visit us. They buy our books and seem far more interested in the gospel -than I have ever seen them before.” - -[Illustration: DESERTED ROYAL DINING HALL. PAGE 121] - -Very soon after writing these words Dr. Hall returned to Seoul; -the boat on which he came was full of sick Japanese soldiers. -There were cases of typhus fever and army dysentery, the water was -doubtless poisoned, and he reached Seoul, after numerous most trying -vicissitudes, fatally ill with typhus fever. Quite early, articulation -became very difficult, but every halting sentence spoke of perfect -peace and joy, and almost his last words were, “I’m sweeping through -the gates.” Tears dim my eyes while I write, for we all not only loved, -but reverenced Dr. Hall, and we felt that he possessed a larger share -of the Master’s spirit than most of us. His very entrance into a room -seemed to bring the Lord nearer, and his looks, words and conduct -unexceptionally revealed the power and beauty of Christ. No one ever -heard Dr. Hall speak a harsh or bitter word, no one ever heard him -criticise a brother Christian, no one, to the best of my information, -ever knew of him anything that was not noble, true, faithful and -Christlike. His face beamed with a celestial light, and without his -ever assuming to be in any way better than others, we all felt he was a -holy man. Europeans and natives alike testified to the same impressions -of him, the same love for him, his sweet spirit drew all hearts to him, -so that he was both universally loved and honored. - -While we who were in Seoul had all suffered more or less from ill -health, everything was quiet and orderly, and the Japanese deserve -great credit for the fine discipline of the army, and the good order -and comfort of natives and foreigners in a city entirely at the mercy -of the victorious troops of an Eastern nation. - -During the fall and winter of ’94 and spring of ’95 the queen sent for -me very often, asking many questions about foreign countries and their -customs, and chatting most affably. Frequently we dispensed altogether -with the formality of an interpreter, and the king and crown prince, -who were often present, were quite as frequently elsewhere, so with -her majesty so friendly and kind, I at times almost forgot that I was -not having a _tête à tête_ with an intimate friend. I of course felt -my great responsibility heavily, and was overwhelmed at times with the -thought of my duty and inefficiency. At length I asked the prayers of -the missionaries that an opportunity to speak to the queen about Christ -might be given me, and that I might realize it and make the best use of -it. And now my anxiety and trouble of mind passed away and a restful -contentedness took its place. I felt sure that I was to be guided and -led at the right time. - -On the day before Christmas the queen sent for me and asked me to -tell her about our great festival, its origin and meaning, and how -celebrated. Could any one ask clearer guidance or a better opportunity? -It would be impossible not to tell the gospel story under such -circumstances, and so I told her of the angels’ song, and the star, -and the little babe that was laid in a manger, of the lost world to be -redeemed, of the one God who so loved the world, and the Redeemer who -came to save his people from their sins. - -She listened intently, and with deep interest, turning from time to -time and repeating it in a most animated and sympathetic way to the -king and prince, who did not understand my accent so well. - -A few days later, after asking many questions about my own country, -she said rather sadly, “Oh, that Korea were as happy, as free and as -powerful as America!” Here was another opportunity which I tried to -improve by saying, that America, though rich and powerful, was not the -greatest or the best, attempting to picture that better land without -sin, pain or tears; a land of endless glory, goodness and joy. “Ah!” -exclaimed the queen, with unspeakable pathos, “how good it would be if -the king, the prince and myself might all go there!” - -Poor queen! her kingdom threatened on all sides, at that time in the -hands of an ancient foe, traitors and relentless enemies among her -own people and kindred, and some of the men whom she had raised and -advanced ready and plotting then to betray her to death. No wonder she -sighed for that haven of peace and rest. But I was forced to tell her -very sadly, that no sinners might enter there. “No sinners!” Her face -fell, the bright look faded, for she knew, accustomed though she was -to almost divine honors, that she was a sinner. Then as silence fell -in the room, I told her the good tidings, that all who would trust in -Jesus were forgiven and purified through him, and so made holy and fit -for that country. She listened very thoughtfully, and though no other -opportunity came to talk further on this subject, I was unspeakably -thankful that I had been permitted on these occasions to point out -clearly the way of salvation. - -I think that in this time, when her nation’s helplessness and weakness -were emphasized, the queen sought to strengthen friendly relations with -European and Americans. She gave several formal audiences to European -and American ladies, and all who met her felt her powerful magnetic -charm and became at once her friends and well-wishers. Twice during -that winter the queen bade me ask all my friends to skate on the pond -in the palace gardens, graciously asking me to act as hostess in her -place and serve tea in the little pavilion near-by. - -On Christmas day her majesty sent a beautiful sedan-chair, which had -been her own, covered with blue velvet and lined with Chinese brocaded -silk, and with it any number of screens, mats, rolls of cloth and -interesting and curious articles of Korean manufacture, with great -quantities of eggs, pheasants, fish, nuts and dates, and on the Korean -New Year’s day five hundred yen, which the queen requested me to use in -the purchase of pearls, or something similar, for myself, and a gift as -well for my little son. - -He was then between four and five years of age, and the palace women -were constantly urging me to bring him with me to the palace. This, of -course, I would not do without a special request from their majesties, -and at length one day the queen asked why I had never brought him, -expressed surprise that I considered an invitation necessary, and -bade me bring him next day. I therefore took him to the palace, and -no sooner had the coolies lowered my chair than the women, who were -evidently on the watch for us, clutched him up and bore him away in -triumph, I, his mother, knew not whither. Some few minutes elapsed -before I was asked to go from the waiting room to the audience, during -which I employed my time in lively conjectures as to what was happening -to my kidnapped son. When I was called for a little later I found him -with the royal party, the center of an admiring circle. - -Both the king and queen have always shown a passionate fondness for -children. Only a few months ago the king spent nearly four hundred -thousand dollars on sorcerers and temples in trying to mollify the -smallpox god, which had attacked the youngest son, a boy of about six. -So no wonder they were kind to the small American. The queen ordered -nuts and candies brought in, and insisted on his eating then and -there, although, knowing that it was bad form in the eyes of Koreans -as well as of foreigners to eat in the royal presence, and fearing for -his health as well (for he had never as yet eaten nuts), I begged her -majesty to allow this treat to be postponed. His looks and actions -were praised far beyond their deserts, and every expression noted and -remarked upon. The queen drew the child to her side in a motherly -fashion, placing her hand on his forehead, remarked anxiously that it -was too hot. - -When we were ready to go, the king, to my amazement, actually knelt -down in front of the baby, and with his own “jade” fingers buttoned -on the little coat and made a brave attempt to tie the cap strings, -one of which, I blush to confess, in the unfamiliar tug was quite torn -from its moorings. Of course I was overwhelmed with confusion over the -bad conduct of the ribbon on such an occasion, but the king overlooked -it, and farewells were said and again the child was spirited swiftly -away by the palace women. I found him in the women’s quarters handed -round like a curio from one to another, petted, caressed, discussed, -half-frightened, but demure. - -Poor palace women! with no homes or children, living such an aimless, -shut-in life, a child in their midst was a godsend indeed. But all -Koreans are extremely fond of children. A child is an open sesame to -their hearts and homes at all times. God blesses the missionary babies, -and these little preachers open doors that yield to no other touch -than their little dimpled fingers. From palace to hovel I never found -a woman whose heart would not soften, whose eyes would not brighten, -whose interest could not at once be enlisted by the sight of a child. - -That evening as we returned home through the narrow and winding streets -of Seoul we were quite an imposing procession. A number of palace -lantern bearers accompanied us, each carrying the gayly-colored silk -official lanterns of their majesties, and preceding us were a train of -servants, carrying on their heads great trays of oranges, nuts, dried -persimmons and candies. It took little imagination, looking at those -men in their Eastern attire, at the lanterns and streets, and even -our own chair with its oriental splendor, to transport ourselves into -the middle of a chapter of the Arabian nights, with a little Aladdin -sitting in my lap and the slaves of the ring attending us home. - -Soon after Christmas I dressed a Christmas tree for the royal family, -but to my great vexation, the effect was quite spoiled because their -majesties were too impatient to wait till dark to view it, and one -cannot lock the doors on kings and queens and forbid them to do as -they will in their own palaces. There were no heavy hangings or means -of darkening the room, and so the poor little candles flickered in a -sickly way in the glaring daylight, and I felt that Western customs -were lightly esteemed in the critical eyes of the East. - -Indeed, in our superb self-satisfaction we often deceive ourselves in -fancying that Orientals view with open-mouthed admiration everything -European or American. I am reminded of a Korean nobleman, who, on being -asked, after his return to Seoul from America, how he liked New York, -replied, “Oh, very well, _except the dirt and the smells, which were -horrible_.” Another similar instance was that of one of the Koreans who -went with us to Chemulpo and Fusan, who saw the two-story houses, the -ships in the harbor and various wonders of civilization, and exclaimed, -“Poor Korea, poor Korea;” but when he heard a foreign band play at the -Japanese consulate, remarked with delight, “At least there is one thing -in which Japan cannot rival or compare with us, our music!” - -Through the whole winter I was at the palace very often, as were the -ladies of the American and Russian legations, and Dr. Avison of our -mission, who was physician to the king, was frequently consulted, and -the recipient also personally of many royal favors. In the spring the -prime minister came, saying the queen had sent him to ask Mr. Underwood -to draw up plans and estimate the cost of a school for the sons of the -nobility. The site selected was between the east and west palaces. Her -majesty proposed to erect dwellings for the teachers, whom my husband -was asked to recommend and send for to America. The queen was prepared, -the minister said, to give at once thirty thousand dollars for the -school, and twenty or thirty thousand dollars a year for the running -expenses. - -Mr. Underwood drew up the first plans and made estimates, which were -sent for her majesty’s criticism and approval. These were again -referred to Mr. Underwood, the final plans were being prepared, and -only two weeks before they were to be sent for the queen’s approval the -great blow fell which put an end to all her beneficent and enlightened -schemes for the advancement of her people. - -Before proceeding further I must go back a few years and recall one or -two events which occurred before my arrival, in 1884, in order that my -readers may understand more clearly some of the events which are to be -related in the next two or three chapters. - -In that year the progressive or reform party in Korean politics was -led by a man called Kim Ok Kiun, but they were continually foiled in -all their attempts towards advance and reform by the conservatives, -and at length received reliable information (so they claimed) that a -plan had been formed to murder all their prominent leaders at midnight, -on December the fourth. On this evening a banquet was to be given in -honor of the opening of the Korean post-office, and the progressives -resolved to forestall the plans of their opponents, and just before -the dinner they cut down Min Yung Ik, the queen’s cousin, and the most -influential man in the kingdom. He would have died had it not been for -the prompt assistance given by Dr. Allen, then of our mission. The -other conservative leaders were then ordered to the palace, as they -supposed, by royal command, but were there (five of them) assassinated -by the progressive party, who, headed by Kim Ok Kiun, then seized the -palace. The post-office was burned on the same night, and with it the -new stamps which had been used only once. - -The Japanese minister and other foreign officials were now invited -to the palace, which invitation was accepted only by the former, who -brought one hundred and forty soldiers. Here the Japanese and the -progressive party were attacked by three thousand Koreans and between -two and three thousand Chinese. As the event grew more than doubtful, -the king was allowed to go over to the other party, in the belief that -if he was released the fighting would cease. Although this was not the -case, the little party of Japanese fired a mine, dispersed a large -number of the allies, and then forming a square, with the progressive -leaders and the Japanese minister in the center, fought their way -through the enemy, and the hostile streets, first to the Japanese -legation, and after that to the river, with the loss of only five men. -After much difficulty in obtaining boats, they crossed the river, made -their way to Chemulpo, and from there escaped safely to Japan. - -The picturesque palace, with the remarkably beautiful park which -surrounds it, was not occupied again by the queen. Her majesty averred -that it was impossible to sleep there at night for the mournful wailing -of the voices of her murdered friends, which she heard continually -crying, “Why was I killed, why was I killed?” So now the wind whistles -and moans through the deserted rooms, grass and weeds push their way -through the crevices of the beautiful marble steps, green mould grows -thick on the once lovely lotus pond, and the charming little summer -pavilions are falling to ruins, while snakes and lizards slide about -the stone seats. The wide reaches of lawn are overgrown with long -grass, and tigers and leopards are said to make their lairs in the -noble woods and grottoes. The gateways fashioned in various charming -designs to form frames as it were for the beautiful vistas beyond, are -choked with a wild overgrowth of vines and weeds. Fancy has not to look -far, or listen long, to read in all this deserted and neglected beauty -the story of that one night of blood and horror, and to hear in every -chilled whisper of shuddering foliage the word “haunted.” - -[Illustration: MR. CHOY CHO SI] - -[Illustration: ELDER YANG AND FAMILY] - -Ten years had passed, the refugees were still in Japan, but Eastern -vengeance does not tire or sleep, least of all forget. A man named -Hong, probably employed by the government, went to Japan, ingratiated -himself with Kim Ok Kiun, decoyed him to Shanghai, and there murdered -him, and on April the 12th, 1894, a Chinese gunboat brought the -assassin and his victim’s remains to Chemulpo. Arrived in Korea, -the body of the murdered man was divided and sent through the eight -provinces. Two of the other refugees had gone to America, and one Pak -Yung Ho remained in Japan. All three are to be heard from again. While -we all shuddered at and deplored this revolting deed, a stain upon -any government, it must be remembered that the man was a political -criminal of the blackest dye, and that while any nation would under -similar circumstances, if possible, have executed him as a traitor -and assassin, the Korean government was that of unenlightened Eastern -people who have not learned that revenge has no place in just -punishment. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - - Mr. McKenzie--The First Church Built by Natives--Mr. McKenzie’s - Sickness--His Death--Warning to New Missionaries--The - Tonghaks--Mr. Underwood’s Trip to Sorai in Summer--Native - Churches--Our Use of Helpers--Christians in Seoul Build - their Own Church--Epidemic of Cholera--Unhygienic - Practices--Unsanitary Condition of City. - - -In the meanwhile, in the fall of 1894, Mr. McKenzie, who had arrived -from Canada in the winter of 1893, and, as we have said, had gone to -Dr. Hall’s relief, after his return decided to go to the interior, the -better to learn the language and people, and to live there as much as -possible in every way like a native. Mr. Underwood advised him to go -to the village of Sorai, or Song Chun, then under his care, where he -had baptized almost the first converts ever received in the Korean -church. Here he found a few Christians who received him as a brother. -He made his home with one of them, and at once began to preach Christ -by example. Long before the people understood his broken Korean they -read his beautiful life, and little by little a change came over the -whole community. We all thought of him often in his loneliness in that -far-off hamlet, where, though he was a great light to the people, there -was no real companionship for him. At Christmas we sent him a box of -home-made bread, plumb-cake, canned fruits and vegetables, tea and milk -and sugar, for we knew he had no foreign food and that he was living -solely on Korean diet, but we did not know that it consisted of rice -chiefly, with a chicken once a week, and occasionally a few eggs. - -When our box reached him, he handed the contents all over to the -Koreans. He wrote that he _dared_ not taste them, knowing that if he -did it would be impossible to go back to native food. Meanwhile one -and another of the villagers and people in the vicinity were giving up -their old heathen idols and turning to Christ. - -Some years before the Christians of that village had asked Mr. -Underwood to give them a church, but, like the young man who came -to Jesus, they went away sorrowful, when told they must build it -themselves. Now, however, they again took up the idea in a different -spirit. Near the village was a rising piece of ground on which stood -a little grove, in midst of which had been for many years the shrine -where the village deities were worshiped. This had long been neglected -and destroyed, and here it was decided to build the new church. Every -one gave as the Lord had prospered him, gladly, enthusiastically, and a -heathen master builder undertook to direct the erection of the building -on half pay, because it was for the great “chief God of heaven,” as he -understood. Very likely he knew little enough of the one only God for -whose service it was raised, but not very long after he learned both to -know and love him. - -The little meeting house was not a very imposing or lofty structure. -It could boast nothing of the magnificence of our American churches, -no doubt it would blush to be called a church at all in such a stately -company, so I will call it a chapel, and even then it was an humble and -unpretentious one, _but it was the best building in the place_. The -poor people put into it their best wood, stones and tiles, the loving -labor of their own hands, with fervent prayer. When it was finished no -debt hung over it, and God, who does not see as man sees, blessed -and honored it by filling it to overflowing with simple-minded, -sincere, earnest people, who came with hearts ready to receive with -meekness his word. - -[Illustration: PARTY STARTING OUT IN MORNING FROM THATCHED INN. PAGE -199] - -[Illustration: CHURCH AT SORAI. PAGE 124] - -In the early summer of 1895, Mr. McKenzie wrote, asking Mr. Underwood -to go and dedicate the church and receive a number of applicants for -baptism. This he promised to do, but just before he was to start, one -sad day in July, when a number of us had met to hold a day of fasting -and prayer, a messenger came with the news of the deadly illness of our -dear brother, Mr. McKenzie. The pitiful letter, written with his own -trembling fingers, showing in every sentence the evidence of terrible -suffering and of a mind already unhinged, was followed immediately by -the shocking news of his death. The blow fell like a thunderbolt. Such -zeal, consecration and usefulness cut short so soon! - -It was strange, and yet there was a lesson in it for the noblest class -of missionaries. And here let me say just a few words of warning to -some who may have the foreign field in view, and to some who are -perhaps already on the field. There are men and women, who, being -John the Baptist sort of people, enter the work with such zeal and -enthusiasm and allow themselves to become so overwhelmed with the -awful responsibility for these dying millions (which indeed every true -missionary feels only too heavily), that they forget the just demands -of the body of this death. They forget that a solitary life gradually -unseats the intellect, and that a body which has reached maturity, fed -on plenty of nutritious food, cannot suddenly be shifted to a meagre, -unaccustomed and distasteful diet of foreign concoction, and retain -its power to resist disease, and to accomplish the heavy work they -mercilessly exact from it, like Egyptian taskmasters demanding brick -without straw. They forget that the spirit cannot remain united to the -body unless the claims of the latter (in which are included those of -the brain) are satisfied, and so they drop, one by one, our noblest and -most needed laborers. But even so, they do not die entirely in vain, -they leave an example of Christlikeness and devotion which preaches -eloquently, and is an inspiration to all their brethren. - -And yet if they could only have gone on living and preaching, as -they might, had they been able to mix with their enthusiasm and -consecration, wisdom and temperance! During my short experience I have -seen several illustrations of what Mr. McKenzie’s death brought home so -startlingly to us all. We learned afterwards that he had been sick for -some weeks, his mind had been somewhat affected early in the history of -the disease, the progress of which had not been very rapid, but as he -had no companion who could observe the danger signals, and no doctor to -help, his invaluable life was lost. - -The more intelligent natives urged him to send for a doctor, but he -hesitated to call others from their work to undertake a long difficult -trip in the unhealthy summer season, lest it should prove to be only a -passing temporary ailment. And so he went on doctoring himself (just -as any missionary alone in the interior is tempted to do), delaying to -call for help, from his very unselfishness and conscientious fear of -giving trouble. - -z“Take care of your head. Don’t work too long in the sun,” he said to -an old woman by the roadside, “or you may lose your mind as I have.” - -He related to his friend, the Korean leader, accounts of long nights -of anguished struggle with Satan, and then again of hours of ecstatic -joy with his Saviour. The intolerable agony in his head grew steadily -worse, until the end. The Koreans felt the terrible blow deeply, but -they have never ceased to love and revere Mr. McKenzie’s memory. They -cannot speak of him now after a lapse of several years without tears. -Their loving hands prepared him for the grave and covered his bier -with flowers. They held a funeral service as best they knew, after our -custom, with prayers and hymns, and laid his loved remains in a quiet -place, not far from the little church which he had been the instrument -in God’s hands of building. His influence is still felt in the village -and for miles around. He lived Christ and laid the foundations of that -church on a rock. He had a reputation for great courage and prowess, -and it is said that his presence alone saved Sorai from invasions of -Tonghaks. - -This society played a conspicuous part in the opening of the -China-Japan war, its name means literally Eastern doctrine, and its aim -was in brief, “the East for Easterners,” or “Korea for Koreans.” They -declared their desire and intention to down all Westerners, Western -ideas, reforms and changes, and to restore and re-establish old laws -and customs. The sudden organization and wonderful popularity of this -society was doubtless caused by the outrageous conduct of many corrupt -officials, who ground down the people mercilessly with unjust taxation -and brought about a general feeling of unrest and bitter discontent. - -They were in many respects like the Boxers of China, and believed -they had immunity from death and could not be hurt by bullets. They -soon spread all over the land, a terror to officials, and the Korean -government was powerless to stop them. They gave up the worship of all -minor deities and honored only the Lord of the heavens. They forced -people everywhere to join their ranks and subscribe for their support, -levying taxes on small and great. Starting like many other movements, -in a good and patriotic determination to do away with abuses and -institute reforms, it grew into a great evil and terror in the whole -land. Bad and unprincipled men, of whom there are plenty in all -climes, who are restless and ready to throw themselves into anything -which promises a change, knowing that no change can be for the worse -for them, joined in large numbers, and many companies of Tonghaks -differed only in name from bands of robbers. As has been said, the -government could make no headway against them, and whether or not the -aid of China was officially sought, I am not prepared to say, but the -fact that China did send troops to Korea, nominally to control this -uprising, was used by the Japanese, who claimed that a mutual agreement -existed between Japan and China that neither should introduce troops -into Korea without the consent of the other, as a _casus belli_, and -they forthwith sent an army to Korea, seized the palace, and sunk a -transport bringing Chinamen to Chemulpo. - -So much for a brief explanation of the Tonghaks. Large companies of -these men threatened on three different occasions to raid Sorai while -Mr. McKenzie was there. To show that he leaned on no earthly defense, -but only on the arm of the almighty God, he took his gun all to pieces -when he heard of their approach. They were told of this, and were -deeply impressed; and were so thoroughly convinced that if he was -leaning on some mysterious power with such strong confidence, it would -be useless and worse to attack him, that they gave up their plan. The -third time they decided to attack the place they were said to be ten -thousand strong, but after coming part way, they turned back, and never -again threatened Sorai, which was the only village in that section -which was never raided. - -One day Mr. McKenzie heard that a tiger was prowling around in the -vicinity, and started out with his shotgun to hunt the beast, but -fortunately did not have a chance to try conclusions with that weapon, -which, however useful in killing partridges, would not be likely to do -more than tease a tiger. As soon as we received news of his death, Mr. -Underwood and Dr. Wells started that very day for Sorai, to arrange -his effects, make sure the death had been as reported, and comfort and -encourage the native Christians. Before they returned, Mr. Underwood -dedicated the little church, which was packed almost to suffocation, -with crowds standing around the doors and windows. He baptized on that -day quite a little company, as well as admitted a large number of -catechumens and held a memorial service for Mr. McKenzie. - -[Illustration: THE THREE STAGES OF MAN IN KOREA - -1. MARRIED MAN 2. ENGAGED BOY. 3. YOUNG BOY] - -Mr. Underwood was kept longer than I expected on this trip, and there -were no means of postal or telegraphic communication. We women, whose -husbands go hundreds of miles into the interior, realize that we must -take strong hold on God, and learn patience and faith. When the time -for Mr. Underwood’s return had passed, and no news came, I remembered -flooded rivers, bands of Tonghaks, the various forms of deadly disease -that may attack the man who travels in the country in July or August, -and the waiting and suspense grew harder every day. - -Every morning I looked up the road, where it curves around the hill, to -see if he were coming. Every evening when the hateful twilight hurried -into darkness, I strained my aching vision along the awful emptiness -of that road, and all night long I listened for the plash of oars on -the river, or almost fancied I heard his voice as the boats rounded the -point, for he might come in a boat. Sometimes I saw Japanese coming -in the distance, and deceived by their dark clothes, thought it was -he. Once a native chair came up the road near the house, and they told -me he had come, but it was only a stranger, and the chair passed on. -Yet my case was not harder than that of many women in the homelands -who must all learn what anxious suspense and long vigils mean, but at -length, fearing he was seriously sick, I concluded that I would go and -find him. - -To do this secrecy was necessary, for none of my foreign friends would -allow me to go at that season, if they were informed of my intention. -So I called up Mr. Underwood’s trusted literary assistant, and arranged -with him to hire ponies. I planned to start from our house in Seoul (we -were then at the river cottage), and as nearly every one was out of -town, expected to be able to get away without any one’s knowledge. But -on the very day, word came that he had already started, and was well -on his way home, his ponies had returned, and he, coming by water, was -almost due. No use to go now, and in a day or two he was safe among us -again, and again in contrition I heard the gentle rebuke, “Oh ye of -little faith, wherefore did ye doubt?” - -The church in Sorai was the first built and paid for by the natives, -was in fact the first Presbyterian church built in Korea. The Christian -natives in Seoul had met in a little guest-house on our place, and -in similar rooms in other sub-stations. So, Sorai in the van set the -marching order, and all others, with almost no exceptions (in the -Presbyterian missions), have followed in their lead. - -Paid pastors none of them have, but all the stronger ones employ -evangelists, whom they often pay in rice or fields or wood, to -systematically carry the gospel to their heathen neighbors. It is our -custom to select in each church the most earnest and intelligent of the -Christians as a leader, who takes charge of the services, and oversight -of the flock, and reports progress to the missionary in charge. The -leaders are gathered once a year, at the time when farmers have most -leisure, at some central place, and instructed in the doctrines of the -Bible, church government and history, and careful exegetical Bible -study. They are carefully trained in conducting religious services and -in preparing illustrated Bible readings. In every way possible the -missionary tries to fit these men for their duties. Mr. Underwood is -accustomed to hold one of these classes in the city for those who live -near enough, and one in the country for those who are at too great a -distance to attend the city class, and I believe nearly all the others -do the same. - -Such is the interest felt in the gatherings and the thirst for more -light, that many who are not invited, and who hold no office in the -church, travel many miles, bringing their own rice, to attend these -classes, which are often crowded to overflowing. The church leaders are -rarely paid any salary, even by the natives. Each missionary engaged in -evangelistic work is allowed one paid helper, at five dollars a month. -This man employs his whole time in this way, and some missionaries who -have a large field under their care are allowed two such assistants. - -Mr. Underwood has always had a good many men, who freely gave the -greater part of their time to the work, or who were paid by the native -Christians, or were provided by him with some means of gaining their -living which would admit of their giving much time to the work. Some -would peddle quinine, at sufficient profit to make a good living. -Each bottle is wrapped with a tract, and pains were taken to insure -only the best article being placed in the hands of these dealers. -Some of these men are placed in charge of little book shops, without -any salary, some in charge of a chapel or dispensary, the privilege -of occupying the house their only pay. There are always a number of -young men around him glad and proud to be asked to serve on a special -mission here or there, and the young men’s missionary societies band -themselves together for systematic gospel work, so that they each week -visit some village, distributing tracts and preaching. All these, with -the leaders, who are always at his disposal for work in their own -vicinity, form a valuable corps of helpers. This plan, or something -like it, I believe, is carried out by all the evangelistic missionaries -in the Presbyterian missions. Mr. Underwood, also, copying from the -Methodists, established a circle of class meetings among the Christians -under his care in and around Seoul. - -The class leaders meet with him once a week, each bringing his -book, make a report of attendances, absences, sickness, removals, -backslidings, deaths and conversions. The class leader, being, as far -as we know, the best man in his class, and in a way responsible for it, -becomes again a very useful helper. - -During the spring of 1895 the Presbyterian church in Chong Dong, Seoul, -decided to build themselves a place of worship. The people were all of -them poor, even according to Korean ideas, paper-hangers, carpenters, -small retail shopkeepers, farmers, policemen, soldiers, interpreters, -writers, copyists, even chair coolies, gardeners and peddlers, the -richest of them rarely earning more than five dollars in gold a month. -So we missionaries decided to raise the most of the two thousand yen -necessary among ourselves, encouraging the natives to give as much as -they could. - -Mr. Underwood, however, in trying to impress them with the duty of -supporting the Lord’s work liberally, was met one day with the remark, -that this was called a foreign religion, and so it was difficult to -convince natives that foreigners should not pay its way. “And so it -will continue to be regarded,” said my husband, “just as long as you -allow foreign money to be used in carrying it forward. When you build -and own your churches, send out your own evangelists, and support your -own schools, then both you and others will feel and realize it is not a -foreign affair, but your own.” - -“Then,” said the deacon, “we will build the Chong Dong church -ourselves.” Mr. Underwood was astonished. “How can you build such -a church?” said he. The deacon replied, “Does the pastor ask such -a question of what relates to God’s work? With God all things are -possible.” Nothing, of course, remained to be said. The missionaries -decided that it would be wiser for them to own the land, in case of -possible political complications, but the building itself would cost -the whole of one thousand yen. The people went to work with a will, the -pastor and one or two other missionaries took off their coats and lent -a hand at the work, boys hauled stones, Korean gentlemen, scholars, -and teachers who had never lifted anything heavier than a pen, set -themselves to work on the building, carpenters gave their skilled labor -every alternate day, working for their own living only one out of -every two, women saved a little rice from each bowl prepared for the -family until enough was laid aside to be sold, and gave the money thus -earned, and so in manifold ways the money came in and the work grew. At -length, however, there were no more funds and the building came to a -standstill. No one was willing to go into debt, even to borrow of the -missionaries, and it was decided to wait until the way opened. - -Just when everything seemed hopelessly blocked, the epidemic of Asiatic -cholera broke out. Why Koreans do not have this every summer raging -through the whole country is one of the unsolved problems. All sewage -runs into filthy, narrow ditches, which are frequently stopped up with -refuse, so as to overflow into the streets, green slimy pools of water -lie undisturbed in courtyards and along the side of the road, wells are -polluted with drainage from soiled apparel washed close by, quantities -of decaying vegetable matter are thrown out and left to rot on the -thoroughfares and under the windows of the houses. Every imaginable -practice which comes under the definition of unhygienic or unsanitary -is common. Even young children in arms eat raw and green cucumbers, -unpeeled, acrid berries and heavy soggy hot bread. They bolt quantities -of hot or cold rice, with a tough, indigestible cabbage, washed in -ditch water, prepared with turnips and flavored with salt and red -pepper. Green fruit of every kind is eaten with perfect recklessness -of all the laws of nature, and with impunity (and I must say, an -average immunity from disastrous consequence) which makes a Westerner -stand aghast. Any of us would surely die promptly and deservedly if -we presumed to venture one-tenth of the impertinences and liberties -with Dame Nature which a Korean smilingly and unconcernedly takes for -granted as his common right. - -The only solution I have ever reached, and that I hold but weakly, is, -that in accordance with the law of the survival of the fittest, none -but exceptionally hardy specimens ever reach adolescence, or even early -childhood, and that having survived the awful tests of infancy, they -are able to endure most trials which befall later. - -But even these, so to speak, galvanized-iron interiors are not always -proof. It takes time, but every five or six years, by great care and -industry, a bacillus develops itself, so hardened, so well armed, so -deeply toxic, that even Koreans must succumb, and then there is an -epidemic of cholera. Eight years before, in 1887, the plague swept -through the land, and thousands fell. Christians, both missionaries -and natives, united in prayers that God would stay the scourge. -Physicians pronounced it contrary to the laws of nature that it -should stop before frost came to kill the bacilli, but, in wonderful -justification of faith, the ravages of the plague were abruptly checked -in the midst of the terrible heat of the last days of August and the -first of September. - - - - -Chapter IX - - Difficulty of Enforcing Quarantine Regulations--Greedy - Officials “Eat” Relief Funds--Americans Stand Alone to Face - the Foe--The Emergency Cholera Hospital--The Inspection - Officers--We Decide to Use the Shelter--A Pathetic Case--The - Jesus Man--Gratitude of the Koreans--The New Church--The Murder - of the Queen--Testimony of Foreigners--The Official Report. - - -And now again the rod was to fall. The disease began with terrible -violence, men in full vigor in the morning were corpses at noon, -several members of the same family often dying the same day. It cropped -out in one neighborhood after another with a steadily marked increase -every day, that was frightful in its unrelenting, unswerving ferocity. -The Japanese and many of the more enlightened Koreans took the alarm -early, and seeking the counsel of European and American physicians -planned to establish quarantine and sanitary regulations for the whole -country, but as an astute young Korean sadly remarked, “It is easy -enough to make the laws, it is more than doubtful whether they can be -enforced.” - -If officials and soldiers are sent to enforce quarantine, there is -little doubt among those who know customs and people that only too many -of them will be susceptible to a very small bribe. When the necessity -for quarantining Seoul from Chemulpo was mentioned, the high officials -themselves said it would be impossible on account of the importance -of the trade between the two places. One instance will show the -hopelessness of the attempt to carry out sanitary regulations. - -In the effort to prevent the enormous and insane consumption of green -apples, melons and cucumbers, the sale of these articles was forbidden -with a penalty for buyer and seller, and notices of the law posted -everywhere. And yet, soon after, my husband passed a stand where they -were being sold in large numbers, over which one of these very notices -was hung, and several policemen among the buyers were munching the -forbidden fruit with a calm relish, edifying to behold. It is due to -the government to say that they seemed thoroughly awakened to the -situation and were doing all in their power, but were handicapped by -the deplorable corruption of many officials. Twenty thousand yen (ten -thousand dollars) were granted to fix up a temporary emergency cholera -hospital, enforce sanitary laws and prevent the advance of the plague, -but this money was, to use a common Korean phrase, “eaten” by greedy -underlings on all hands. In the preparation of the hospital, more -than twice the number of carpenters needed were employed, and these -men passed their time making little articles for private sale, or in -standing about doing nothing. A number of petty officials were hired -to do little, and improved on their commission by doing nothing but -receive their pay. - -At a general meeting of the physicians then in the city, European, -American and Japanese, Dr. Avison having been chosen by vote director -of this emergency hospital and the sanitary work, the Japanese all -withdrew, saying they did not care to work under a Westerner, and in -the end the Americans only were left to face the foe. - -After many discouragements and hindrances an old barracks building -was roughly prepared to receive patients, and a corps of nurses and -doctors, composed of quite a number of missionaries (Methodists, -Baptists and Presbyterians, with the assistance of hired Koreans) was -formed. The building was very poorly fitted up for such an exigency, -the haste with which it was necessary to get it ready, and the -character of the place, precluded the possibility of making it very -suitable for the purpose. It was open, damp and chilly, with no means -of warming or secluding the patients. It was only scantily furnished -with such absolute necessities as could be had at short notice in the -city. And think not, Oh civilized medical community in America! that -“necessities” according to your ideas are synonymous with “necessities” -according to our possibilities in Asia. Perhaps you have a fossilized -idea that beds and sheets and pillows are necessities. By no means. Our -patients lay on the floor, covered with small cotton wool rugs, and -back-breaking business it was to nurse them. - -But the discouragements connected with our work was not merely the lack -of conveniences and almost dire necessities, or the want of proper -enforcement of sanitary regulations and of co-operation, and although -Dr. Avison and the foreign staff under him worked heroically, and with -unwearied devotion, it was an unequal struggle. The majority of natives -are not willing to go to hospitals, and it would have been dangerous -to try to force them, while many will not permit foreign doctors to -treat them even in their homes, or else use Korean medicines with ours. -But alas! in many cases the disease is so violent as to defy all that -science, aided by every advantage, can do. - -It is the most desperately, deadly thing I ever saw, and often -medicines seem useless to do more than slightly defer the ultimate -result. The poison attacks the nerve centers at once, and every -organ is affected. Terrible cramps contract the muscles, the heart -fails, the extremities grow cold, the pulse becomes imperceptible, -the mind wanders, or suddenly, without previous symptoms, the victim -falls and dies at once. Or, after the most violent symptoms of the -disease have disappeared, vomiting and pain have ceased, the pulse has -become almost normal and the patient nearly ready to be discharged, a -mysterious change comes, and the poor victim dies of pneumonia, uræmic -convulsions, or some of the other sequellæ of this frightful disease. - -Mr. Underwood was placed in charge of inspection offices, which were -opened in different districts over the whole city, and all cases -reported there received immediate attention. Several of his young -Christians were trained by him to carry on this work, he himself at -first going out with them, hunting up infected localities, using -disinfectants, and teaching the helpers and residents how to purify -the premises. These young men worked indefatigably, with intelligence, -enthusiasm and courage. The inspectors and all the doctors and nurses -wore a badge, consisting of the red cross over the Korean flag, so that -even in heathen Korea the sign of the cross was carried everywhere, and -dominated the emblem of the Korean government. - -The people picked up the idea that lime was a mysterious agent in -preventing disease, so it was not uncommon to see a handful of it -scattered, a few grains here and there, along the edges of some of the -filthiest ditches, or a gourd whitewashed with lime hanging by the door -as a sort of charm to drive away cholera. - -Koreans call it “the rat disease,” believing that cramps are rats -gnawing and crawling inside the legs, going up till the heart is -reached; so they offer prayers to the spirit of the cat, hang a -paper cat on the house door, and rub their cramps with a cat’s skin. -They offered prayers and sacrifices in various high places to the -heavens--Hananim--and some of the streets in infected districts were -almost impassable on account of ropes stretched across, about five feet -high, at intervals of about every twenty-five feet, to which paper -prayers were attached. As my coolies, trying to pass along with my -chair, broke one of these, I could not help admonishing the owner who -came to its rescue, “_Better put them up a little higher_.” - -Aye, put them up higher, poor Korean brother, they are far too near the -earth! One of the most pathetic sights in connection with this plague -were these poor, wind-torn, rain-bedraggled, paper prayers, hanging -helplessly everywhere, the offering of blind superstition to useless -dumb gods who can neither pity nor hear. - - “They reach lame hands of faith and grope - And gather dust and chaff.” - -Early in August it was decided, as the plague seemed on the increase, -to fill the “Shelter” with cholera patients, and Dr. Avison assigned to -Dr. Wells, Mr. Underwood and myself the supervision and care of this -place. - -The “Shelter,” situated on a good high site outside the walls, with a -number of comfortable rooms, with the possibility of hot floors (which -proved an unspeakable benefit to the poor cold, pulseless sick), seemed -an ideal place for the purpose. It was not very large, it is true, but -as most of our patients were either quickly cured or quickly succumbed, -we were able to receive a goodly number. Mr. Underwood and Dr. Wells -worked indefatigably, stocking it with everything obtainable which -could be of use. - -My husband arranged for a corps of voluntary native nurses. As the only -missionaries available were at work elsewhere, and we had seen too -much of hired native official nurses, he decided to ask some of his -Christian helpers to do this service for the love of Christ. Cholera is -a loathsome disease, only love makes it easy to nurse faithfully and -tenderly these poor afflicted creatures, without overwhelming disgust. - -Some of the men thus approached belonged to the scholar and gentlemen -class, who had never done manual work of any kind, and at first they -hesitated. However, they at last decided to undertake the task, and -with willing hands and a little training, they turned out to be very -satisfactory nurses, faithful and devoted, never shirking the most -difficult and repelling work. Every evening a service of prayer and -song was held in the central court of the Shelter, where all who were -conscious could hear, and we believe that the blessing on that work -came in answer to these united prayers, and the public acknowledgment -of absolute dependence in God. Here, too, the workers gained new -enthusiasm and the strength born of faith and hope. - -Dr. Wells’ brilliant management deserves the highest praise. The -necessity of caring for my little one, lying sick five miles away, -allowed me only alternate nights of service at the hospital, so the -labor for the other two members of our trio was severe, but while the -need lasted strength was given. - -Unspeakably pathetic were many of the scenes we were forced to witness. -One poor woman, only that day widowed, with three little ones to care -for, was brought in cold and almost pulseless. We spent the night -trying to save this poor mother. Early in the morning her eldest, a -dear little fellow of eleven, came to watch with and take care of -her. To see the anxious little face (a child’s face in the shadow of -a great sorrow is the saddest thing on earth) as he chafed her hands -and affirmed, half interrogatively, how much warmer they were now -than before, and as he looked eagerly to us, every time we entered -saying, “Will she live, will she live?” was enough to make one ready -to die for that life. We felt that woman must live. And yet--. After a -long contest the pulse revived, the extremities grew warm, nearly all -untoward symptoms disappeared, we all dared to hope. “She will live -now,” joyfully said the child. “Oh, if I could live, it would be good!” -said the now conscious mother. But alas! next day the three little -ones were motherless and fatherless, and another sad funeral, with one -drooping little mourner, joined the awful procession, which nightly -filed through the city gates, and covered the surrounding hills with -new-made graves. One poor old father watched and tended his boy of -fourteen with agonized devotion. The only one left to his old age of -what was a few days before a large family. We all worked over the lad -with strong hopes, so young, and many of the old had recovered, so much -needed, surely he would be spared, but at length the cold young form -grew a little colder, the tired little pulse ceased to flutter, and a -broken old man followed his last hope to the grave. - -And yet we had great cause for devout thankfulness that so many of -our patients were spared. Sixty-five per cent of recoveries is almost -unheard of, and yet this was our record at the Shelter. - -Under God we ascribed this large percentage of cures, mainly to the -three following causes: The use of salol as early and in as large doses -as possible. Keeping the patients on the very hot floor till warmth -returned and circulation improved. And the conscientious and untiring -nursing by the native Christians. - -Of course this is not the place, nor have I the time, to go into a -minute description of the various remedies and forms of treatment used. -We believed we were reaching the case with salol, but various other -remedies also were used to control the symptoms. In fact, everything -we knew was done, and all must be done quickly or not at all. Many of -the cases brought to us were in a state of collapse when they arrived. -Often the pulse was not perceptible, and yet repeatedly, where we felt -that treatment was hopeless, the hot floor and vigorous chafing, with -hypodermic administration of stimulants, brought about sufficient -reanimation to make it possible to take the salol, and this seemed to -act miraculously. It was in obedience to Dr. Wells’ suggestion that -we tried this drug which proved such a blessing. In one case, that -of a young man of high rank, his family despaired of his life from -the first, and finally went home to prepare his grave clothes, but -on returning with them in the morning, found him, to their joy and -amazement, quite out of danger. Another striking case was that of an -old lady nearly seventy years of age. Her son and daughter, as a last -resort, but quite hopelessly, brought her to us. She was far gone, -unconscious, and almost pulseless. We rubbed her cold extremities -with alcohol, keeping her quite warm on a fine hot floor (she lay -practically on a stove all night), and to the astonishment of all, -after a few hours, steady improvement began and she was soon restored -to her delighted friends. - -I insert here our medical record, for the benefit of medical readers, -giving all the uninterested the privilege of skipping. We received -altogether 173 patients, of whom 61 died; of those received, 18 arrived -dying or dead; 95 were taken in rigid, of whom only 42 died; 35 were -verging on collapse, of whom 2 died; 4 were in partial collapse, of -whom none died; 20 were in the first stage, of whom none died. Of -those who died, 25 never reacted, 2 had puerperal complications, 2 were -already affected with tuberculosis, 3 developed cerebral meningitis, 1 -complication of chronic cystitis, 1 chronic nephritis, and 2 received -no salol. - -All these recoveries made no little stir in the city, especially as -elsewhere nearly two-thirds of those affected died. Proclamations -were posted on the walls, telling people there was no need for them -to die when they might go to the Christian hospital and live. People -who watched missionaries working over the sick night after night said -to each other, “How these foreigners love us, would we do as much for -one of our own kin as they do for strangers?” Some men who saw Mr. -Underwood hurrying along the road in the gray twilight of a summer -morning remarked, “There goes the Jesus man, he works all night and all -day with the sick without resting.” “Why does he do it?” said another. -“Because he loves us,” was the reply. What sweeter reward could be had -than that the people should see the Lord in our service. Surely the -plague was not all evil when it served to bring the Lord more clearly -to the view of the souls he died to save. - -A tolerably fair count of the deaths inside the walls each day was -possible, since all the dead are carried through two or three gates. -The numbers rose gradually to something over three hundred a day and -then gradually declined, the plague lasting not quite six weeks. -The extra-mural population is probably as large as the intra-mural, -including the people within the two miles radius outside the walls. All -taken together there are between three and four hundred thousand people. - -When the plague was nearly over the following very grateful letter of -thanks from the Korean office of Foreign Affairs was sent through the -American minister. - - THE DEPARTMENT OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS. - 504th Year, 7th Moon, 3d Day. - - August 22d, 1895. - - _Kim, Minister of Foreign Affairs, - to Mr. Sill, United States Minister._ - - SIR: I have the honor to say that my government is deeply - grateful to ---------- and his friends who have spent a great - deal of money for medicines and labored in the management of - cholera, resulting in the cure of many sick people. I trust - your excellency will kindly convey an expression of thanks to - them on behalf of my government. I am, etc., etc. - - (_Signed_) KIM YUN SIK. - -Gifts were sent to the missionaries, who had assisted at the hospitals, -of rolls of silk, fans, little silver inkstands, having the name of the -Home Office and the recipient engraved upon them, and most interesting -of all, a kind of mosaic mats made of a peculiar sort of reeds grown -for the purpose at the island of Kang Wha. These mats have bits of -the reeds of different colors skilfully inlaid to form the pattern, -and that on those which were given to us was at one end the national -emblem, at the other the red cross and the name of the Home Office. - -This was of course extremely gratifying. No, more, it was a thing for -which to be profoundly grateful that government and people recognized -that we, the representatives of our Lord (however inefficient and -unworthy), were their friends, and, as far as in us lay, their helpers. - -The best, however, was to come. The names of the Koreans who had nursed -and served at the Shelter and inspection offices were asked for, and -the intention to pay them stated. We told them that the men had done -this with no expectation of pay, but to this they would not listen -and insisted on rewarding them handsomely. On the receipt of this -unexpected, and, for them, large sum, almost all the Christians (quite -voluntarily, and to our surprise) put it all into the fund for the new -church, considering it a gift of God, specially sent in answer to -prayer, to help them in the enterprise undertaken in faith. - -They were, therefore, now able to go on and finish the church, which -accommodates, with crowding, two hundred people. It is an unpretentious -building, entirely native, substantial as possible with mud walls, -tiled roof and paper windows, yet built and finished much in the style -of the best Korean houses, none of which knew, at that time, what it -was to boast of a pane of glass, or brick or stone walls. Into it the -little congregation flocked, and with glad hearts dedicated to God the -work of their hands, which through sacrifice, love, faith and prayer -was more costly and precious in his sight than gold or ivory, which had -not been so sanctified. - -Not long after the cholera epidemic, and the events connected with it, -occurred the tragedy at the palace--the murder of the brilliant and -progressive queen, the friend of progress, civilization and reform. - -Her majesty was a brilliant diplomatist, and usually worsted her -opponents. The Japanese, after the war, had indeed proclaimed the -independence of Korea, yet seemed in practice to desire to establish -a sort of protectorate and to direct her policy at home and abroad. -Many public offices were filled with citizens of Japan, or Japanese -sympathizers as far as possible, and a large body of the Korean troops -were drilled by and under the command of Japanese officers. - -Realizing that in the patriotic and brilliant queen they had to meet -one who would not readily submit to their plans for the Japanizing of -Korea, they objected to her participation at all in the affairs of -government, and were promised, under compulsion we were told, that -these orders should be obeyed. Naturally this was not done, and the -queen continued to be a source of confusion and rock of offense -to them and their plans. Finally a decided change was made in the -personnel of the Japanese embassy. Count Inoye, who, in the name of -his government, had hitherto promised to the queen the support and -protection of Japan was recalled. He was replaced by Count Miura, who -was a man of very different tendencies. Count Miura was a very strong -Buddhist, and passionately devoted to the supposed interests of Japan -as against those of any other nation. - -[Illustration: THE ROUND GATE, SEOUL] - -One morning, the 8th of October, 1895, we heard firing at the palace. -This was in time of peace, and such sounds we knew must be portents -of evil. All was confusion, nothing definite could be learned, except -that certain Japanese troops had arrived at about three in the morning, -escorting the Tai Won Kun (the king’s father and the queen’s bitter -enemy), and had driven out the native royal guard under General Dye -(an American) and were now guarding the palace gates. The air was full -of ominous suspicions and whispers, but nothing more definite could -we learn till afternoon, when meeting a Korean noble, he told us with -face all aghast, that it was currently reported that the queen had been -murdered. - -In a few hours this news was confirmed with particulars. The Tai -Won Kun was at that time under guard, in exile from the court, at -his country house, for conspiracy against the king in favor of his -grandson, and he of course readily consented to become the leader of -the plotters against the queen, to enter the palace at the head of -their troops and take possession of the persons of their majesties (and -the government incidentally), necessarily, of course, doing away with -the queen. The troops therefore marched with the old man in his chair -to the palace gates, where all had been made ready. Ammunition had been -secretly removed, native troops trained by Americans had been mostly -exchanged for those trained by Japanese, and after a few shots, and -scarcely a pretence of resistance, the attacking party entered. It was -some distance to the royal apartments, and the rumor of disturbance -reached there some time before the attacking party. Her majesty was -alarmed. She was a brave woman, but she knew she had bitter, powerful -and treacherous foes, and that, like Damocles, a sword suspended by -only too slight a thread hung over her life. - -The king’s second son, Prince Oui-wha, begged her to escape with him by -a little gate which yet remained unguarded, through which they might -pass disguised to friends in the city. The dowager queen, however, was -too old to go, and her majesty nobly refused to leave her alone to -the terror which occupation of the palace by foreigners would insure, -trusting no doubt to the positive assurances of protection that had -been made to her through Count Inoye, and the more so, as one of the -courtiers in waiting, a man by the name of Chung Pung Ha, had assured -her that whatever happened she might rest confident that the persons -of their majesties would be perfectly safe. This man was a creature of -low origin, whom the queen had raised and bestowed many favors upon, -and in whom she placed great reliance. He advised her not to hide, -and kept himself informed of all her movements. With no code of honor -wider or higher than his pocket, he of course became a ready tool of -the assassins, and there is much evidence to show he was a party to the -conspiracy. - -The queen therefore remained in a good deal of uneasiness and anxiety, -but only when the Tai Won Kun and the hired assassins rushed in, -calling for the queen, did she attempt, alas! too late, to hide. - -There was some confusion, in the numerous verbal reports which reached -us, but two foreigners, a Russian, Mr. Sabbatin, and an American, -General Dye, who were eye-witnesses of nearly all that occurred, both -agreed in the statement, that Japanese troops under Japanese officers -surrounded the courtyard and buildings where the royal party were, and -that the Japanese officers were in the courtyard, and saw the outrages -which were committed, and knew all that was done by the Japanese -_soshi_ or professional cutthroats. About thirty of these assassins -rushed into the royal apartments crying, “The queen, the queen, where -is the queen?” - -Then began a mad and brutal hunt for their prey, more like wild beasts -than men, seizing the palace women,[1] dragging them about by their -hair and beating them, trying to force them to tell where the queen -was. Mr. Sabbatin was himself questioned and threatened with death. The -_soshi_ and officers who wore the Japanese uniform passed through the -room where his majesty stood trying to divert attention from the queen. -“One of the Japanese caught him by the shoulder and pulled him about, -and Yi Kiung Chick, the minister of the royal household, was killed by -the Japanese in his majesty’s presence. His royal highness, the crown -prince, was seized, his hat torn off and broken, and he was pulled -about by the hair, the _soshi_ threatening him with their swords while -demanding where the queen was.”[2] At length they hunted the poor queen -down, and killed her with their swords. They then covered her body, -and bringing in various palace women, suddenly displayed the corpse, -when the women shrieked with horror, “The queen, the queen!” This was -enough; by this ruse the assassins made sure they had felled the right -victim. - -[1] “Korean Repository,” 1895. - -[2] From official report of “Korean Repository.” - -Soon after, the remains were taken to a grove of trees not far off, -kerosene oil poured over them, and they were burned, only a few bones -remaining. - -Later developments all went to prove that the murderers were actually -guilty of the inconceivable folly of imagining that by this means it -would be possible to conceal the crime and their share in it. - -Stories of all sorts were circulated, as that her majesty had escaped -and was lying concealed, or that she had simply been removed for a -time by the Japanese, who could bring her back at any moment. In the -official account of the murder, and of the trial of Count Miura and -the _soshi_, held in Hiroshima, Japan, for which I am indebted to -“The Korean Repository” for 1895, the following words occur: “The -accused Miura Gow assumed his official duties ... on September 1, 1895. -According to his observation, things in Korea were tending in the -wrong direction, the court was daily growing more and more arbitrary, -and attempting wanton interference with the conduct of State affairs. -Disorder and confusion were in this way introduced into the system of -administration that had just been reorganized under the guidance and -advice of the Imperial government. The court went so far in turning its -back upon Japan that a project was mooted for disbanding the _Kurentai_ -troops (Koreans under Japanese officers) and punishing their officers. -Moreover, a report came to the said Miura that the court had under -contemplation a scheme for usurping all political power by degrading -some and killing others of the cabinet ministers suspected of devotion -to the cause of progress and independence. Under these circumstances -he was greatly perturbed, inasmuch as he thought that the attitude -assumed by the court not only showed remarkable ingratitude towards -this country, which had spent labor and money for the sake of Korea, -but was also calculated to thwart the work of internal reform and -‘jeopardize the independence of the kingdom.’” - -The report then proceeds to state that the accused felt it necessary -to apply a remedy which would on the one hand “secure the independence -of the Korean kingdom, and on the other _maintain the prestige of this -empire in that country_!” The report further proceeds to state, that -conferences were held with the Tai Won Kun and with Japanese officials, -at one of which, October 3rd, “The decision arrived at on that occasion -was that assistance should be rendered to the Tai Won Kun’s entry -into the palace by making use of the _Kurentai_, who, being hated by -the court, felt themselves in danger, and of the young men who deeply -lamented the course of events, and also by causing the Japanese troops -stationed in Seoul to offer their support to the enterprise. It was -further resolved that this opportunity should be availed of for taking -the life of the queen, who exercised overwhelming influence in the -court.” - -After further particulars in the completion of the plan the Japanese -document continues: “Miura told them (the men who were to escort -the Tai Won Kun) that on the success of the enterprise depended the -eradication of the evils that had done so much mischief to the kingdom -for the past twenty years, and instigated them to despatch the queen -when they entered the palace.” The report then goes on at some length, -describing the various steps taken in carrying out the conspiracy, -and continues: “Then slowly proceeding toward Seoul the party met the -_Kurentai_ troops outside the west gate of the capital, where they -waited some time for the Japanese troops.... About dawn the whole party -entered the palace through the Kwang-hwa gate, and at once proceeded to -the inner chambers. Notwithstanding these facts there is no sufficient -evidence to prove that any of the accused actually committed the crime -originally meditated by them.... For these reasons, the accused, each -and all, are hereby discharged.... The documents and other articles -seized in connection with this case are restored to their respective -owners. - - Given at Hiroshima local court by - YOSHIDA YOSHIDA, - Judge of Preliminary inquiry, - TAMURA YOSHIHARU, - Clerk of the court. - -Dated 20th day of the first month of the twenty-ninth year of Yeiji. - -This copy has been taken from the original text. - - Clerk of the local court of Hiroshima.” - -This document needs no comment. Count Miura was recently restored to -all his titles and dignities which had been temporarily removed. - - - - -CHAPTER X - - The Palace after the Murder--Panic--Attitude of Foreign - Legations--The King’s Life in Hourly Danger--Noble - Refugees--Americans on Guard--Mistakes of the New - Government--Objectionable Sumptuary Laws--A Plan to Rescue the - King--One Night at the Palace--Forcing an Entrance--Our Little - Drama--Escape of General Yun. - - -In the meantime the king and crown prince were held prisoners in their -own palace by a cabinet composed of Koreans who were favorable to the -Japanese government. Immediately after the death of the queen, before -the soldiers and assassins had dispersed, the Japanese minister had -come to the palace and requested an audience. According to the official -report, Count Miura, with his secretary, Mr. Sugimma,[3] the Tai Won -Kun, and a Japanese, who had led the _soshi_, were all present at -this audience, and presented three papers to the king for signature, -one being that the cabinet should henceforth manage the affairs of -the country, one that Prince Yi Chai Miun should be minister of the -royal household, and the other appointing a vice-minister of the -household. The king shaken by the events of the night, and helpless in -the hands of his enemies, signed all three. Then the Japanese troops -were withdrawn, and the _Kurentai_ alone left on guard. Soon after the -ministers of war and police departments were changed for pro-Japanese, -“so that all the armed forces of the government, and even the personal -attendants of his majesty” were under the control of the opponents of -the royal person and family. - -[3] See “Korean Repository” official account of the murder of the queen. - -Mr. Waeber, the Russian minister, and Dr. Allen, Chargé d’Affaires of -the United States, having heard the firing, arrived at the palace, -while the Japanese minister was still there, and were made acquainted -by the king to some extent concerning the occurrences which had just -taken place. The poor king was in a state of shock amounting to almost -complete prostration, which was pitiable to behold, after the awful -experiences of the night and the brutal murder of his idolized queen. - -The friends and connections of the royal family, officials, soldiers, -servants and hangers on about the palace, of whom there were several -thousands, were all in the wildest panic. Every one was rushing in -mad haste to escape from the confines of the palace grounds, and -uniforms or anything that could distinguish men as belonging to the -court were recklessly torn off and thrown away. The American, Russian -and English legations were thronged with people, anxious for shelter -from the hands of those who composed the band of Korean traitors. The -foreign representatives felt and showed much indignation over the cruel -assassination of her majesty and sympathy for the king. - -For some time they visited the palace every day. As they refused to -recognize the rebel government, they probably felt obliged to see his -majesty personally, in order to know his wishes and policy, and it is -also most likely that, feeling much uncertainty as to the intentions of -the persons in whose hands the king was, they wished to keep themselves -informed, and perhaps to keep in check any plans of violence toward the -remaining members of the royal family. Mr. Underwood was requested to -accompany the United States minister as interpreter, while the French -bishop acted in the same capacity for the representative of France, -since none of the native interpreters could be trusted under such -circumstances. - -And right here I would stop to ask, why is it that in matters of such -extreme importance as the affairs of state between our own government -and Eastern nations, there have been up to this time no trained -American interpreters, and our highest officials are obliged to depend -upon the more than doubtful native interpreters, who even when not -wilfully for their own purposes, or through their own cowardice, -misrepresenting communications of the greatest importance, may through -incapability entirely misconceive the idea to be expressed, or through -carelessness omit the most significant part of the whole sentence? - -The king was to be seen only under the strictest surveillance of the -cabinet, and apparently was under extreme coercion, so that he did not -consider it expedient to say anything contrary to their orders and -policy. On rare occasions, when their attention was called for a few -moments by some of the visiting party, his majesty contrived to convey -to Mr. Underwood a whispered message, a sign, a tiny note slipped in -his palm, by which he briefly communicated his desires, or plans, or -his real replies to questions which had already been answered publicly -in accordance with the views of his enemies. As the king stood in -hourly fear of poison, and not without reason, since his unscrupulous -and unnatural father, the Tai Won Kun, was most desirous to replace -him by his grandson, through another son, and as so many of the -conspirators surrounding the king had now so much at stake, were in so -dangerous a position, and were men who had already proved they would -stop at nothing where their own interest was concerned, he would take -no food for some time but condensed milk brought in sealed cans and -opened in his presence, or eggs cooked in the shells. Hearing of this, -and glad to take advantage of an opportunity however small to show our -sympathy, the ladies from one of the European legations and myself -alternated in sending specially prepared dishes, such articles as -contained the greatest amount of nourishment, as well as of agreeable -taste. - -They were sent in a tin box, provided with a Yale lock. Mr. Underwood, -who was now going as interpreter and messenger between the legations -and palace, sometimes twice a day, carried the key, and placed it in -the king’s own hand, while the box was carried in at any convenient -time by the ordinary officials. It was only a small service, but it was -to some extent a relief to be allowed to do anything for those who had -a claim upon our loyalty, and who had been so shockingly outraged. - -One day as Mr. Underwood was going in to his majesty he met the old -Tai Won Kun, who said, “Why do you take all that good food in to him? -He doesn’t need it. I am old, my teeth are gone, I need it far more -than he.” The crafty and cruel old human tiger’s teeth and claws were -still only too serviceable, alas! For a long time after the death of -the queen, nearly seven weeks, Americans, one or two at a time, were -asked to be at the palace every night, as it was thought that with -foreigners there as witnesses, the conspirators, whoever they might -be, would hesitate to commit any further outrages. There is little -doubt that had they thought it necessary to commit regicide, the lives -of the witnesses would have been sacrificed as well, but Easterners -stand in considerable fear of the wrath of the Western nations, when -their citizens are killed, and no doubt the chances of violence to -his majesty and the crown prince were somewhat diminished by the -presence of the missionaries, who night after night, two and two, -left the congenial task of preaching the gospel of peace to insure the -continuance of it (or that small fraction which at that time was left -to poor Korea). - -We wives at home, keeping lonely vigil, while our husbands sentineled -the palace, listened with sharpened ears for sounds of ill-omen from -that direction. But both they and we were glad of this service, -rejoicing to prove that we were the friends of the people and the -rightful ruler, from highest to lowest, and we were specially glad -that those who had been called disloyal, because they refused to obey -the decree which forbade preaching the gospel, were now able to show -themselves the most active and unwearied in serving the king. - -The day after the assassination, the king’s second son, Prince Oui-wha, -sent to ask refuge in our house, where, this being American property, -he would be safe from arrest. The legations were all full of refugees -of high rank, and several were staying in our Korean _sarang_ or guest -room. We were, of course, delighted to receive the young prince, and -also to have this further opportunity to prove our regard for him. In -consequence of the presence of these refugees we were honored by being -kept under continual espionage by the pseudo-government, our compound -constantly watched by spies at all exits, by day and night. It seemed -monstrous to me, who had never known any of the class whose movements -are watched by detectives, nor ever dreamed of coming in any way -into collision with any government (much less of being of sufficient -importance to do so), but perhaps it was the spirit of revolutionary -forefathers which made me believe, that if governments were wrong, -right-minded people must oppose them, and that if sheltering the -friends of the just and lawful ruler from a company of conspirators -and traitors was standing in an attitude of hostility to the powers -that be, it was both right and our unavoidable duty to do what we could -to shield them from violence and death. - -In the meanwhile the new government was appointing new officials, -trying, torturing and executing innocent people as the accused -murderers of the queen, in order to shield themselves--useless crimes -which deceived no one--making a number of new offices and placing -Japanese in them on large salaries, and making new and farcical, -as well as injurious and objectionable, laws. Women were not to be -allowed to go on the street with covered faces, pipes must be of a -certain length, sleeves must be shortened and narrowed, coats must -be of a particular color, and hat brims a certain width. This was -called “Kaiwha” or reform. Large numbers of Japanese flocked to this -country and made their way to the capital or into the interior, in the -industrious pursuit of wealth, which we were informed was not always -limited to legitimate measures, or the possession of sinecures. - -Missionaries returning from the interior reported that they had heard -lamentable tales on all hands, of farmers strung up by the thumbs, -for the extortion of money or deeds of lands and of women dealt with -brutally. The poor country people were like sheep in the midst of -wolves, their shepherd gone, their fold broken down. - -One of the measures taken by the pro-Japanese government, which excited -great feeling and probably did more than anything else to arouse -protest, because so cruelly calculated to wound the desolate and -stricken king, was a decree sent through the whole land in the king’s -name declaring the queen a wicked woman and degrading her to the lowest -rank. This they asked the king to sign and seal, but shaken as he was, -he absolutely refused so to insult his dead consort, and the cabinet -were obliged to forge his signature, and seal the paper themselves. -This act bore the stamp of the Tai Won Kun, whose insatiable hate was -not satisfied with the murder of the queen, but followed her with -insults to the grave. - -In the midst of these days of confusion and excitement, the loyalist -party, or at least some of them, made an attempt to rescue the king. -This all his friends ardently desired, but it was very difficult to -accomplish, as his majesty was surrounded constantly by spies and -guards, whose interest as well as whose business it was to keep him -under the strictest surveillance. - -Numbers of Koreans came to my husband with various schemes for the -accomplishment of the king’s release, seeking his advice and aid, but -while he was very willing to express his sympathy with their object and -his disapproval of the rebel government, he did not consent to any part -in any of their projects, partly because he did not know whom to trust, -and partly because none were such as he, a missionary, could take part -in or support. I do not doubt, however, that if he could have seen a -way to do so, he would gladly have sacrificed much to have assisted the -king to escape to a place of safety, where he could establish his own -government without fear of the combinations formed against him. - -The plans of the rescue party were made very secretly, so that none -of the missionaries at least knew anything of them, though two of the -leaders, General Yun and another, were in our house till a late hour -the previous night, and perhaps to this fact was due the conviction -which a number of people entertained that my husband was concerned -in the loyal but unfortunate plot. The enemies of the king, however, -got wind of the plans of his friends, and through spies and treachery -ferreted it all out, and prepared themselves fully. One of the -traitors, an army officer, who pretended to be ready to open the gates -and assist the rescue party from within, really disclosed everything to -the false cabinet, and was prepared with troops to receive and repel -the loyalists. On the evening set for the rescue of the king, just -before my husband’s return from the palace, where he had been all the -afternoon, he found Dr. Avison, of our mission, here at his home, with -news that the Koreans were preparing to attack the palace that very -night, as he had just learned from one of the party. Mr. Underwood -was hardly willing to credit the idea, sure that all his feelings -and sympathies were so well understood, he would have been informed -had this been the case; but while Dr. Avison was still in the house, -the secretary of the American legation called, at the request of the -American minister, to say that they had authoritative information of -the same thing, and as the king would no doubt be much alarmed, and -would be in great danger from the traitors, should the attack succeed, -the American minister asked that Mr. Underwood would spend the night -near the king’s person. - -As the gate would probably be closed and admittance refused to every -one, the minister had sent his card for Mr. Underwood to present in -order to gain admission. It was of course understood that this was -only a suggestion, and that Mr. Underwood was perfectly at liberty -to refuse, but he was really glad to go, and felt honored in being -selected for this service, so he at once consented, and asked Mr. -Hulbert, now of the government school, to accompany him. Dr. Avison -having been called for professionally, also joined them, and the three -men met at the palace gates, where the guard at once refused to admit -them, positive orders having been sent forbidding the entrance of any -one. Our minister’s card was shown to no apparent effect, except that -the officer on guard offered to go up to the palace with it and obtain -permission. This Mr. Underwood knew would be futile, for the cabinet -would almost certainly refuse, so he replied, “No, I must be admitted -at once and without delay, I came at the request of the United States -minister, and if you choose to refuse his card, and his messenger, you -must take the responsibility; I shall return at once and give him your -reply.” As an officer had been severely punished only a few days before -for refusing entrance to a foreign diplomat, who had left the palace -gates in awful wrath, the men now on guard hesitated. “Decide, and at -once,” said Mr. Underwood sternly. This conquered, and the Americans -hurried in. They went directly to the king, and making known that they -had come for the night, asked his wishes, and were requested to wait in -General Dye’s rooms, close at hand, to be ready on the first alarm to -take their places near his person. - -The _three guardsmen_ then repaired to the general’s room to await -developments, where Mr. Underwood had some conversation with General -Dye, and the traitorous Korean officer, who even then suspecting that -Mr. Underwood had some part in the friendly plot, tried to entrap him -and to induce him to betray himself and the others. But as my husband -knew nothing of the persons engaged, or any of their plans, and was -himself quite innocent of any complicity in their scheme, it was -impossible for any information to be elicited from him. Suddenly at -twelve o’clock the report of a gun was heard, springing up, he ran to -the king’s apartments, followed closely by the other two. A line of -soldiers was drawn up, standing shoulder to shoulder along the path, -who called “Halt,” sharply, as he approached; paying no attention -he ran swiftly past them, and before they had time to realize, or -to decide what to do, Dr. Avison and Mr. Hulbert had followed. At -the door just beyond stood a couple of officers with drawn swords -crossed. Mr. Underwood struck the swords up with his revolver and -rushed through, the other two men entering immediately behind him, just -as they heard the king calling, “Where are the foreigners, call the -foreigners.” “Here, your majesty. Here we are,” replied the three men, -entering the room, where the king grasped them by the hand, and kept -them on either side of him the whole night. - -As for the poor half-armed party of the king’s friends, they were -allowed to proceed until well within the prepared ambush, and when they -discovered the trap, it was almost impossible to escape. Many were -captured, some killed, the rest fled in all directions. This of course -seated more firmly in power the rebels whose position had till now been -more than questionable. Many arrests were made, and executions and the -severest punishments meted out to those who were convicted of having -dared to attempt the restoration of the king. - -While Mr. Underwood was at the palace we were having our own little -drama at home. A new missionary, a tall Westerner, had undertaken the -protection of the household, and armed with a big six-shooter, we -doubted not, he was more than equal to any ordinary emergency. Our -chief source of anxiety (as far as our home was concerned) was the -safety of the prince, who with one attendant only, occupied a room in -an ell at the further end of the house, distant from our apartments. -What if when all attention was concentrated upon the palace, he should -be carried away or murdered in our home, by the enemies of the country! -We felt we were a lamentably small party of defense, still we hoped our -nervous fears were groundless. - -Just as we were about to retire, however, at about ten thirty, a -sharp rap came at the door of our missionary guest’s room, which -opened to the garden. This was evidently some stranger, as any of our -acquaintances would have come to the main entrance. I was called at -once, with the added information that a Japanese officer was waiting to -see me! - -I found a fully armed Japanese in uniform, who asked for the prince. -My suspicions were of course aroused, especially as I could only -conjecture how many battalions he might have concealed around the -corner of the house. I inquired who he was and why he came at that -hour to see the prince. He replied in good Korean, that he was his -particular friend, and gave me a name which was that of a Korean whom I -knew to be a friend of our guest, adding that he had dined at our house -that day, handing me a card engraved with Chinese characters. This was -palpably false, as the friend of the prince had long hair, done in a -top-knot, with a Korean hat above it, this man’s hair was cut short -like a Japanese. The Korean wore white silk garments, this man was from -head to foot a Japanese soldier. - -“This card is Chinese, I cannot read it,” I replied coldly. “You are -a Japanese officer whom I have never seen before, you cannot see the -prince at this hour, you must go away and return in the morning if -you have business with him.” The man, however, was very insistent -on seeing the prince then, in fact he seemed determined to take no -denials, and the more he persisted, the more I became convinced that -once acquainted with the prince’s whereabouts in our house, he would -call up his concealed assassins and arrest or kill him. With the -strengthening of suspicion, my temper rose, and my verbs took on lower -and lower endings, until I finally ordered him with the most degrading -terminations in the grammar, to leave on short order. All through -this conversation our Westerner, who understood no Korean, had been -repeating at intervals, “Shall I shoot, Mrs. Underwood? If you say so, -I’ll shoot,” brandishing his big revolver in an excited way, dangerous -to all concerned. So at last our visitor considering his attempt to -find the prince hopeless, reluctantly went away. We felt we had won a -great victory, and covered ourselves with glory, in thus dispersing the -enemy. - -In the meanwhile the prince, whose door opened also in the garden, -just opposite the one where we stood, heard the arrival, the long -conference, the clash of a sword against the steps, and stood guarding -his chamber door, while his attendant with drawn sword guarded that -of the closet, which happening to be locked they supposed also opened -on the garden. Next morning, when I showed the prince the card, he -recognized with high glee the name of his Korean friend, and shortly -afterwards the individual himself appeared. He had for purposes of -disguise cut his hair that very day, and had donned garments which -completely changed his appearance. It was owing to the success of this -disguise that he had been ordered from our door with most injurious -verb endings. I did not apologize very abjectly, however, for aside -from the fright he had put me in, he had robbed me of all my glory, and -the occasion of all its romance, and dropped it to the level of low -comedy, and while the laughter of the family was ringing in my ears, I -felt I could not forgive him. - -The morning after the attack on the palace found General Yun, the -leader and promoter, in our sarang, whither he had fled for shelter, -well knowing it would be worse than useless to go to his own, or any -Korean house. He inquired who had been captured, and on learning how -many there were, remarked, “Then I am a dead man,” well knowing the -most merciless torture would be used to extract from the prisoners -the names of all concerned, and if his whereabouts were known, the -American minister would be compelled to give search warrants to the -police. He was an old friend of my husband, who promised to conceal him -as long as possible, and get him out of the country soon. The Russian -minister, who espoused the king’s cause as warmly as any of us, and -who had refused to recognize the new government, was consulted, and -a plan was formed to get General Yun to China. Next to our house lay -that of another Presbyterian missionary, and adjoining that the Russian -legation, just beyond which is a kind of diplomatic club-house, and -only a few steps further one of the smaller city gates. - -So Mr. Yun was lodged in the Rev. Mr. M----’s gate-quarters (between -his house and ours), and that night Mr. Underwood shaved and dressed -the general and his friend in Mr. M----’s and his own clothes, a fur -cap well drawn down concealed his face. Mr. Underwood conducted the two -men thus disguised through the Russian legation, the club grounds and -then through the gates, where they were never suspected to be other -than what they looked. A short distance beyond the gates chairs were in -waiting. Mr. M---- and a Bible Society agent met them and escorted them -to Chemulpo, where they were met by a guard from a Russian gunboat, on -which they were conveyed to Chefoo, and there transhipped, and finally -landed safe in Shanghai, where they were gladly received and hospitably -entertained in the house of a M. E. missionary, until the king was -restored to power. - -Mr. Underwood was bitterly accused in Japanese newspapers of having -promoted, and even led the harmless attack on the palace, and though as -he was not only absolutely innocent, but ignorant of it, and not one -particle of evidence could be found, he was obliged to endure a great -deal of slander, which he would not have considered worth a second -thought had it not been made to reflect on his profession and the cause -he lives only to forward. The two facts that General Yun was at our -house the night before, and that Mr. Underwood, at the request of our -minister and the king, was at the palace on the eventful night, were -used to give a show of probability to stories widely circulated, and -allowed to remain uncontradicted by those who knew the facts. - -The conspirators having defeated the restoration party, now carried -things with a high hand indeed, and among the other obnoxious and -tyrannical sumptuary laws, which they proclaimed as furthering -“Kaiwha,” they ordered the summary removal of all top-knots, from -the palace to the hovel, and it was reported that even the highest -personages were compelled, in spite of useless protests, to undergo -this humiliating treatment, and certain it is that the attempt was made -to shear every sheep in the flock. The explanation of what this meant -must be reserved for another chapter. - -[Illustration: A KOREAN TOP-KNOT. PAGE 167] - - - - -CHAPTER XI - - Customs Centering around the Top-Knot--Christians - Sacrificing their Top-Knots--A Cruel Blow--Beginning of - Christian Work in Koksan--A Pathetic Appeal--People Baptize - Themselves--Hard-hearted Cho--The King’s Escape--People Rally - around Him--Two Americans in the Interior--In the Midst of a - Mob--Mob Fury--Korea in the Arms of Russia--Celebrating the - King’s Birthday--Patriotic Hymns--Lord’s Prayer in Korean. - - -Many of the most revered, common, and firmly settled of the customs -and superstitions of the people of Korea are, as it were, woven, -braided, coiled and pinned into their top-knots, on which, like a hairy -keystone, seem to hang, and round which are centered society, religion -and politics. The pigtail of China is nothing like as important, for -it is really a mark of servitude, or was such in its origin, a badge -laid on the conquered by the conquering race. But not so the top-knot, -which is many centuries old, and which, according to ancient histories, -pictures, pottery and embroideries, goes as far back as the existence -of the nation. - -When a boy becomes engaged, or is on the point of being married, a -solemn ceremony is performed. In the presence of proper witnesses, -and at the hands of proper functionaries (among whom are astrologers -or soothsayers), the hair, which has hitherto been parted like a -girl’s and worn in a long braid down the back, is shaved from a small -circular spot on the top of his head, and the remaining long locks -combed smoothly upward, and tied very tightly over the shaved place. -They are then twisted and coiled into a small compact knot, between -two and three inches high and about one in diameter. An amber, coral, -silver, or even gold or jewelled pin is usually fastened through it. -The _Mangan_, a band of net, bound with ribbon, is then fastened on -round the head below the top-knot and above the ears, holding all stray -hairs neatly in place (when a man obtains rank a small open horse-hair -cap is placed over the top-knot), and over all the hat, which (being -also of open work, bamboo splints, silk or horsehair) permits it to be -seen. Fine new clothes are then donned, especially a long coat, and the -boy has become a man! A feast is made, and he goes forth to call upon -and be congratulated by his father’s friends. Either on that day or the -following he is married, although, as has been said, some boys have -their hair put up when they become engaged. - -No matter how old one is, without a top-knot he is never considered -a man, addressed with high endings, or treated with respect. After -assuming the top-knot, no matter how young, he is invested with the -dignities and duties of a man of the family, takes his share in making -the offerings and prayers at the ancestral shrines, and is recognized -by his ancestors’ spirits as one of the family who is to do them honor, -and whom they are to protect and bless. And right here, to digress a -little, it is interesting to note that so intimately is this custom -concerned with their religion that many of the Christian converts are -now cutting off their top-knots when they become converted, regarding -that as the one step (after destroying their idols) which most -effectually cuts off the old life and its superstitions, and marks them -as having come out from their family and acquaintances as men set apart. - -They have begun doing this quite of their own accord, with no -suggestion from the missionaries, and in some cases in opposition to -the advice of some of us, who dislike to see them laying aside old -customs needlessly. But it is growing more and more general among new -believers to sacrifice this dear object of pride and veneration, and -one young fellow told my husband it was impossible to break away from -his old evil associates until he cut his hair. They then believed he -was in earnest and let him alone. But it costs much, and in these cases -is done quite voluntarily, not in forced obedience to the mandates of -conquerors and traitors, which is a very different matter. - -Again, far down in the social scale, lower than the boy with the -pigtail, whom every one snubs, ranking next to the despised butcher, -who daily defiles his hands with blood and gore, and with the touch -of dead bodies, is the Buddhist priest _who wears his hair shaved_, a -creature so low, that he was not at that time allowed to defile the -capital city by entering its gates. To this grade were all the sons of -Korea now to be reduced. Tender associations of early manhood, honored -family traditions, ghostly superstition, the anger and disgust of -ancestral spirits, the iron grip of long custom, the loathing of the -effeminate, sensual and despised Buddhist priests, all forbade this -desecration. Their pride, self-respect and dignity were all assailed -and crushed under foot. Sullen angry faces were seen everywhere, sounds -of wailing and woe were heard continually in every house, for the women -took it even harder than the men. Farmers and carriers of food and -fuel refused to bring their produce to market, for guards stood at the -gates, and cut off with their swords every top-knot as it came through. -Men were stationed also in all the principal streets, cutting off every -top-knot that passed, and all public officials and soldiers were at -once shaved. There was a voice heard, lamentation and mourning and -great weeping. - -It was a cruel blow at personal liberty, which Anglo-Saxons would die -rather than suffer, and which the helplessness of this weak nation made -the more pitiful and inexcusable. It was struck shrewdly too, at one -of the specially distinguishing marks of Koreans, setting them apart -from Japanese and Chinese, designed, we could not help thinking, as -one of the first and important parts of a scheme to blot out Korea’s -national identity, and merge her into one with Japan; but if this was -the intention, never was anything more mistakenly planned. It was hotly -resented to the very heart of the country, and added still deeper dye -and bitter flavor to the long-nourished hatred Koreans felt for their -ancient conqueror and foe. As for us (some of us), we put ourselves -in the Korean’s place, recalled our national experience and harbored -numbers of Koreans on our place, protecting them from the knife as long -as possible. The cup of iniquity was nearly full. The queen, looked -upon as the mother of her people, had been murdered, the king virtually -imprisoned, the country ruled by the dictum of conspirators and tools -of her conquerors, and now this last blow at every family in the nation -was too much. A deep spirit of anger and revolt stirred the whole -country; yet they had no leaders, no arms, no organization and knew not -what to do, a poor down-trodden simple folk, who knew not on whom to -lean for help, and who had not learned to cry to him who hears, defends -and takes up the cause of the poor and needy. - -Bands of Tonghaks again ranged the country, insurrections broke out -in various localities, some of the shaved magistrates who went to the -country were sent back by the mobs, who refused to receive them as -rulers, some were actually killed, and the magistracies destroyed, the -soldiers were powerless to subdue the disturbances, and things seemed -to be growing from bad to worse. Marines were ordered to the legations -from Chemulpo (where there were many foreign gunboats and war vessels), -and no one knew what next to expect, when suddenly an entire change in -the whole situation took place. - -But now I must return for a while to other matters. In the district -of Koksan, in northern Whang Hai Do (Yellow Sea Province), about two -hundred miles north from Seoul, a very interesting Christian work had -started, as so much of our work has, through God’s own direct dealings -with the people, by his word and Spirit. A man from that place having -come up to Seoul on business, and receiving some small kindness from -Mr. Underwood, which he desired to acknowledge, felt that he could do -nothing more delicately complimentary and grateful than to make a show -of interest in his “doctrine,” and so bought four gospels in Chinese, -which he took home in his pack, and forthwith shelved unread. Here they -remained for months, I am not sure how long. - -Finally one day, a friend noticed them, took them down, all grimy with -dust, and asked what they were and whence they came. The owner replied -that he had never read them, but that they were books containing a -new doctrine taught by foreigners in Seoul. Dr. Cho’s curiosity was -aroused, he borrowed, took them home and fell to reading with more -and more avidity the further he proceeded. I would not give up the -priceless heritage of Christian ancestry, the struggles, prayers and -victories of godly forefathers, and all that Christian training from -one generation to another for centuries means, but yet I would give -much to have been able once to read the four gospels as that heathen -read them, with no preconceived opinions, no discolorations of red, -green or even blue theological glasses, no criticisms or commentaries -of “Worldly Wisemen,” or bigoted fanatics, reading their own ideas -between the lines, but with an absolutely unbiased mind so as to be -able to receive that wonderful revelation as a sweet glad surprise; -sentence after sentence, truth after truth blooming into sudden glory, -where the darkness of ignorance had reigned. - -One almost envies that heathen his compensations. He received the -word with joy, wondered and adored. Here was a man well read in the -philosophical teachings, the empty husks of Confucianism and Buddhism, -but who had never heard one word from any Christian teacher. Here was a -mind free from prejudice, and this was the result of contact with God’s -Word. He believed and accepted it for God’s truth with all his heart, -and gave himself unreservedly to Christ, turning completely away from -his old superstitions and systems of philosophy. Quickly the good news -spread, not more from his glad telling of his new-found joy than from -the wonderful change in the man himself. - -Others also soon believed, and an appeal was sent to Seoul for -some one to come and teach them more, lest something should remain -misunderstood, or unfulfilled of their dear Lord’s commands. But in -Seoul, and elsewhere, workers were few, hands were reaching out from -all directions for help, the Macedonian cry was ringing pathetically -from many quarters, the harvest great, the laborers few. The Bible must -be translated, work already started must be cared for and watched, in -a word, there was no one who could go. Again and again came that call, -and at last a letter which brought tears to our eyes. “Why,” said they, -“will no one come to help us, is no one willing to teach us, have we -so far sunk in sin that God will not allow us to have salvation?” -Mr. Underwood started almost at once, with Dr. Avison, about one month -after the promulgation of the laws for cutting the top-knots. The -excitement had somewhat abated in the city, and the call from Koksan -admitted of no delay. Making short stops along the road for medical and -evangelistic work, going on foot, they reached Koksan about three weeks -after leaving Seoul. - -[Illustration: RUSSIAN LEGATION HOUSE. PAGE 174 - -[Illustration: INDEPENDENCE ARCH. PAGE 38] - -They found a little company of earnest simple-hearted believers, who -had thrown away their idols, ceased their ancestor worship, and were -in all things, as far as they knew, obeying the Lord. But “the washing -rite,” as baptism was translated, puzzled them. “_He that believeth and -is baptized shall be saved._” What then was this? They pondered and -studied. God showed them it was in some way a sign of washing from sin, -and when after long waiting, no teacher came, they agreed that each -going to his own home should wash himself in the name of the Father, -the Son and the Holy Ghost, praying for himself and his brethren, that -if in anything they had sinned in this rite, God would forgive them. -And so the missionaries found them, and though for the sake of due -order they were baptized in the prescribed way, it was felt that in -God’s sight it had already been done. - -When for the first time they all sat down to commemorate the Lord’s -death in the service of bread and wine, there was not a dry eye in the -room. Tears streamed from the face of Dr. Cho, and later one of his -neighbors said, when speaking in an experience meeting, “Old Cho, known -as ‘hard-hearted Cho,’ who as a boy never uttered a cry when his father -flogged him, who never wept when he laid his aged mother in the grave, -whose eyes never moistened when his beloved wife died, or when he -buried his eldest son, on whose cheek man never saw a tear, Cho weeps. -What miracle has brought tears to his eyes?” - -While Dr. Avison and Mr. Underwood were in Koksan, wondering and -worshiping over the proofs of how God blesses his word, applied to -simple hearts, startling things were taking place in Seoul. The king, -who had now been four months helpless in the hands of his enemies, -suddenly made good his escape to the Russian legation! - -The story, as we heard it from one near the king, was as follows: -Wearied and sick at heart of affairs of state, his majesty retired to -the women’s apartments, where he spent his entire time, escaping thus -to some extent the detestable espionage of his enemies, who delegated -two elderly women, one the wife of the Tai Won Kun, and another, whose -duty it was to watch his majesty in turn, one by day, the other by -night. Their vigilance was, however, in some way sufficiently eluded, -so that a plan for the royal prisoner’s escape was arranged with two of -the palace women, which was successfully carried out as follows: - -On a certain birthday festival, both of the duennas who, as was said, -took turns, watching and sleeping, were invited to celebrate with -the king, and to partake of a great feast, with plenty of wine and -prolonged amusements. All night the king’s watchers revelled, both -falling into a heavy sleep before dawn. This is the story, but I like -to think that as one of the women was probably the king’s mother, her -heart was tender toward her unhappy son, and that she purposely relaxed -her watch. It would gild a little the long dark tale of all that -preceded to find a touch of sweet human affection right here. At any -rate, when every one in the palace was off guard, supposing the king -and crown prince asleep, they entered a couple of women’s chairs which -were waiting. The bearers of these chairs had been specially selected -and paid with a view to their carrying two, and thought nothing of it, -as the palace women often went out to their homes in this way. So in -each chair a woman sat in front of its royal occupant, screening him -from view should any one glance in. The sentinels at the gate had been -provided with hot refreshments and plenty of strong drink, and were so -fully occupied that the chairs with their valuable burden passed out -unnoticed and unhindered. They were expected at the Russian legation, -where one hundred and sixty marines from the port had just been called -up, and there they speedily made their way, arriving at about seven or -eight in the morning of February 11, 1896. - -This meant the downfall of the usurpers. With the king’s person went -all their claim to authority and power, and it also meant that Japanese -influence in Korean affairs was over for a time, and that the country -had been almost thrown into the arms of Russia, by the short-sighted -policy of the minister, who had desired to “establish the prestige of -Japan.” - -As our compound was very close to the Russian legation, and fronting -on the same street, we were soon aware that something very unusual had -occurred. The whole road, as far as the eye could reach, was filled -with a surging mob of soldiers, commoners, and the chairs and retainers -of the nobility. Guards and sentinels were stationed every few paces -along our street, and there was a loud and almost terrifying babel of -shouting voices, in the din and confusion of which it was impossible to -distinguish anything. I sent at once for one or two of Mr. Underwood’s -writers and literary helpers, who told me that the king had arrived a -short while before at the Russian legation, and had assumed the reins -of government, and that the army, officials and people were rallying -around him, each anxious to precede the other in protestations of -loyalty and devotion. - -Then I thought rather busily for a few seconds. My first reflection -of course was, “How will this affect the absent missionaries?” How -would it affect Japanese (now distrusted) and through them all -foreigners in the interior? Would the people in the country not be -likely to wreak the vessels of their wrath upon them, and would they -discriminate between them and others wearing similar clothing? I -feared not, and that the probabilities were that Dr. Avison and Mr. -Underwood might be in considerable danger, as soon as the news of the -king’s escape, and the fall of the pro-Japanese party became known. -Word must then be sent, and soon, in order if possible to reach them -before the news reached the natives. I sent a letter to our very kind -friend, the Russian minister, with a message to his majesty, inquiring -whether anything could be done for the protection and safe return -of the two missionaries. I knew an immediate reply could hardly be -expected, such was the rush of business, and the number of visitors -and claimants on their time, so, to leave no means untried, I called -up one of the copyists, informed him of the necessity for speed, and -had the satisfaction of seeing him start that very hour with a letter -and warning message to my husband. A short time after, fearing that -something might occur to detain one messenger, I sent another by a -different road. The second man was stopped by Tonghaks, looking for -foreigners, who for some reason suspected him, searched him, ripped -open his clothes, where they found my letter (which of course they -could not read), and forced him to go back to Seoul. - -On the day following that on which my messengers had started, a kind -letter from the Russian legation came, saying that the king would at -once send a guard to Koksan to bring back the two Americans, and at -about the same time, a wealthy nobleman in Songdo, a friend of both, -and brother-in-law of General Yun, knowing where they were, and fearing -for them, also sent a special posse of men to see them safely home. - -Having done all that I could, the most difficult of all tasks, that of -waiting, remained, but I remembered that I had a sister in the same -situation, only that she probably was not quite as well informed as -myself of the exact state of affairs, and did not know that any word -had been sent to our husbands. The street running in front of our house -was packed with excited people, but I decided to make my way through -them in my chair and go down to Mrs. Avison, where she was living at -a long distance from the rest of us, and try to set her mind at rest -by telling her what measures had been taken for the safety of the -absentees, and of what was happening at our end of the town. I soon -passed the crowd in our neighborhood, who were in no way concerned with -me, and in a little while reached the great street, which runs toward -the palace, and crosses that on which the hospital and Dr. Avison’s -home stood. - -As we reached the corner, I saw a great mob of the roughest and wildest -looking men, with flushed faces and dishevelled hair. They came tearing -towards us shouting to each other, “The Japanese soldiers are coming, -they are firing. Run, run, run!” I did not fancy the company of these -gentlemen any more than their looks, nor did I care to be a target -for Japanese troops, who were supposed to be chasing them. So I also -adjured my chair coolies with some emphasis to “run.” The whole mob -came sweeping round the corner, into the thoroughfare on which we -were. It was not a dignified or desirable situation, a Presbyterian -missionary in the midst of a wild scramble, and with a panic-stricken -crowd of roughs escaping for dear life, from the avengers of justice, -but there was no help for it. My coolies needed no urging, they were -as anxious to get away as any of us, but they certainly deserved great -credit, that under the circumstances they did not leave me to my fate, -and try to save only themselves. A few moments running brought us to -the hospital gates, where we turned in hastily, and were safe. It was -not cold, and yet I found myself shivering like an aspen. Strange! - -Mrs. Avison and I were soon laughing, however, over my late escapade, -and as soon as my errand was finished I hurried home another way, none -too soon, for the streets were full of angry-looking men, some of whom -scowled at me, and muttered, “foreigner.” That night we learned that -two of the pro-Japanese cabinet had been killed on the street and torn -to pieces by the mob; that mob which, having finished its awful work, -accompanied me down the street that afternoon. A young Japanese was -also stoned to death on the street that day. In a few days Dr. Avison -and Mr. Underwood were with us quite safe. My faithful and fleet-footed -messenger had taken a short cut, and reached Koksan in an amazingly -short time. - -The news filled our husbands with anxiety for us, not knowing how far -mob violence might go, and they made the distance of near two hundred -miles in sixty hours, walking nearly all the way (the pack-ponies go -much too slow), sleeping only an hour or so at night, and eating as -they walked. They missed both the king’s guard and the posse from -Songdo, which had taken a different road, but met many poor frightened -natives along the road, who knew not where to turn or to whom to look -for protection, with Tonghaks on the one hand and pro-Japanese on -the other. Later we heard of many sad tales of Japanese citizens, -overtaken in the country, who were very summarily dealt with by the -exasperated people. Japanese troops were sent by their minister to -bring back all who could be found, and large sums were demanded from -the Korean government in payment for the lives thus sacrificed. To -which demand, it has been suggested, the reply might have been made, -“Who is to indemnify Korea for the life of her queen?” - -Thus ended for a time the unhappy reign of the Japanese, which, after -their victories over the Chinese, had seemed to begin so auspiciously, -and which, had they been contented with a temperate and conciliating -policy, would probably have grown stronger and stronger. - -The king remained for a year at the Russian legation, where he was -treated with the truest courtesy, for instead of being in any way -coerced or influenced for the benefit of Russian interests, he was -allowed the most perfect liberty and interfered with in no particular. -To such an extent did the true gentleman who acted as the king’s host -carry his scruples, that he refused to advise his majesty in any way -even when requested to do so. On the occasion of the king’s birthday, -which came in September, it occurred to my husband that it would be -a good opportunity to give the Christians a chance to express their -loyalty, and at the same time advertise Christianity more widely than -ever before at one time. The idea did not occur until a day or two -before the time when we were reminded that the royal birthday was close -at hand. - -The time was short, but permission was obtained to use a large -government building near the Independence Arch, which would hold over -one thousand people, and advertised widely that a meeting of prayer and -praise would be held there by the Christians to celebrate the king’s -birthday. A platform was erected, the building draped with flags, and -speakers obtained, among whom were members of the cabinet, several -gifted Koreans, and foreign missionaries. - -He sat up all night preparing tracts, of which thousands were printed -at the M. E. Mission Press for that special occasion, and also a hymn, -to be set to the tune “America.” - - -I. - - For my dear country’s weal, - O God to Thee I pray, - Graciously hear. - Without Thy mighty aid - Our land will low be laid. - Strengthen Thou this dear land, - Most gracious Lord. - - -II. - - Long may our great king live, - This is our prayer to-day - With one accord. - His precious body guard, - Keep it from every ill. - Heavenly Lord and King, - Grant him Thy grace. - - -III. - - By Thy almighty power, - Our royal emperor - Has been enthroned. - Thy Holy Spirit grant - Our nation never fail. - Long live our emperor, - Upheld by Thee. - - -IV. - - For this Thy gracious gift, - Our independence, Lord, - Bless we thy name. - This never ceasing be, - While as a people we, - Nobles and commons all, - United pray. - - -V. - - To Thee, the only Lord, - Maker and King Divine, - We offer praise. - When all shall worship Thee, - Happy our land shall be, - Powerful, rich and free, - Beneath Thy smile. - -Early in the day Christian men and boys were distributing copies of the -tract and hymns throughout the whole city, and long before the hour of -meeting men of all classes began flocking toward that vicinity, and -when the speakers and missionaries arrived it was almost impossible -to obtain access. The building was soon packed with a solid mass of -standing people, and all the wide exits were thronged, the steps and -the immediate vicinity. - -The services were opened with prayer, addresses (mainly religious) were -made, hymns were sung, and finally were closed by the Lord’s prayer, -repeated in concert. It was thrilling to hear those words repeated -reverently by so large a number of people. - -I will give an interlinear translation of the prayer, so that readers -may know just what are the words used by Korean Christians: - - Hanalau Kaysin oori abbachi-sin jah yeh, Ihrahme keruk - - _Our Father, who art in heaven, hallowed_ - - hahsime natanah op se myh, narahhe im haopse myh, tutse - - _be Thy name. Thy kingdom come. Thy_ - - Hanalaya-saw chirum dahaysoh deh iroyohgeita, onal nal - - _will be done on earth as it is in heaven. Give_ - - oori ai gay il young hal yang sik eul, choo apsego, oori ga - - _us this day our daily bread. And_ - - oorigay teuk chay han charal, sah hayah choonan kot - - _forgive us our debts as_ - - katchi, oori chayral, sah hayah chu up se myh. Oori ga - - _we forgive our debtors, and lead_ - - seeheumay teul jee mal kay hah up seego, tahman, ooriral, - - _us not into temptation, but_ - - heung ak ay saw, ku ha ap soh soh. Tai kay, nara wha, - - _deliver us from evil, for Thine_ - - quansay wha, eing guanqhi, choo kay, eng wani it - - _is the kingdom, and the power, and the glory,_ - - sa-ap-nay-ita Amen. - - _for ever. Amen._ - - - - -CHAPTER XII - - A Korean Christian Starts Work in Haing Ju--Changed Lives - of Believers--A Reformed Saloon-keeper--The Conversion - of a Sorceress--Best of Friends--A Pleasant Night on the - Water--Evidence of Christian Living--Our Visit in Sorai--A - Korean Woman’s Work--How a Kang Acts at Times--Applicants - for Baptism--Two Tonghaks--In a Strait betwixt Two--Midnight - Alarms--Miss Jacobson’s Death. - - -In the late fall of the same year Mr. Underwood and I started again -on a trip to the interior, the first we had made together since -our wedding journey, but now we were accompanied by our child, six -years old, and a native woman, who acted as cook, nurse and general -assistant. She rode in a native “_pokyo_” or chair with the child, I in -another, while Mr. Underwood walked or rode his bicycle, as opportunity -permitted. Our first destination was Haing Ju, a dirty little fishing -village on the river, about ten miles from the capital. Work had -started here just after the cholera in the fall of 1895 through the -teaching of a native named Shin Wha Suni, a poor fellow who had, -according to his own confession, been hanging around us for some time, -pretending to be interested in Christianity, in the hope of getting -some lucrative employment in connection with church work. - -After the cholera hospital was opened, he was there on several -occasions, and was much surprised to find that foreign women would -spend whole nights nursing sick Korean coolies. When he chanced to see -one weeping over a poor man, whom all her efforts had failed to save, -he went away astonished and impressed with the idea that “there is -something in that religion that makes them love us like that, something -that forgets self, something that I have never dreamed of before, -something mysterious, glorious, oh, that it were mine!” - -He hungered and God fed him. He sought and found the Saviour, and -when he had found him, he set forth at once to tell the good news to -others. Taking a jikay, the frame which Koreans wear on their backs to -facilitate the carrying of heavy loads, and which all native carriers -use, he started forth to the country to earn his living in this humble -way while _chandohaoing_ or “passing on the Word.” He went as far as -Haing Ju, and there on the sand of the river bank he talked to scoffing -people all day. - -At night, when it was dark, one of the men who had seemed to treat -his message lightly, came and asked him to come to his house and talk -the matter over at more length. He went, and soon another believer -was gained. “Oh, it was good, the taste of a soul saved,” said the -new preacher. “Now it seemed to me I could never be satisfied with -anything else; could never rest until I had more.” The man who had been -converted offered the use of his house as a preaching place. The men -gathered in one room, the women in another, and Shin read the gospels -and the tracts and taught them the catechism and hymns. The number -of Christians grew from week to week, and the little meeting place -became too small and had to be enlarged. The whole tone of the village -gradually changed, and from being known as one of the hardest and most -disreputable places on the river, it now became a model of decency and -respectability. - -Testimony to this effect was offered by some farmers, who appeared -one day in my husband’s study and asked him if he had anything to do -with the Christians in Haing Ju. He replied in the affirmative, half -afraid the people had come with some charge against them. “Well,” -the strangers said, “we should like to buy the books which teach the -doctrine they are practicing there, we want to learn that doctrine in -our village too.” - -Their village, Sam Oui, was not quite three miles away, and in former -times they had been much troubled by the brawls and bad character of -Haing Ju. Their vegetables had been stolen from the fields, their fruit -and chestnuts from the trees, “but now,” said they, “the people not -only do not climb the trees for the nuts, but the boys leave those on -the ground untouched.” - -Here was power in a faith which kept hungry boys from carrying off -even nuts lying temptingly in reach. This was something the like -of which they had never seen or heard; they had been taught not to -steal, especially if likely to be discovered, but a power that could -prevent men and boys from wishing to steal was miraculous. One of the -saloon-keepers of Haing Ju, a man whose only source of livelihood -was in this trade, became thoroughly converted, and at once realized -that he could no longer sell drink to his neighbors, nor could he -conscientiously dispose of his stock in trade at wholesale to other -dealers, so he emptied it all on the street. He was able to obtain -a little work now and then, but he was not strong enough for coolie -labor. He had no trade and no farm, and at times his need was great, -and often the family were on the verge of starvation, but the man’s -faith never failed, he never gave up his hold on God. Finally sickness -attacked him, he became very lame, and hearing of the hospital in -Seoul, managed to be conveyed thither, and while there we heard his -story, and as I needed just then a caretaker for my dispensary, we -engaged him and his wife to live on the place and do the light work -necessary. His leg did not improve much at the hospital, nor did the -doctor give him much hope, but this, too, he made a subject of prayer -and faith, and erelong rejoiced in a complete recovery. - -This is the character of the faith of these hardy fishermen and farmers -on the river. As we approached the village we were astonished to hear -the strains of a Christian hymn, “Happy day, happy day, when Jesus -washed my sins away.” It was a band of little boys whom Shin had been -training, and who had come out to meet us. We spent two or three days -in this place, women and men crowding into the little building to every -meeting. Mr. Underwood baptized thirty-eight people, a young couple -were married, one hundred and thirteen catechumens were received, and -some babies baptized. - -Speaking of babies reminds me of a sad little incident which occurred -while I was holding the first meeting there with the women. Hoping to -win their interest, knowing how many little dead babies are carried -away from Korean homes, I told them of the Saviour’s love for little -ones, that he held them in his arms and caressed them when on earth, -and had said that the spirits of these little ones do always behold -the face of the Father; so that would they only believe and give their -hearts to him, they should see their little ones again in heaven. - -A great sob broke from one of the women who commenced passionately -weeping. As soon as she could speak, she told me, her voice broken with -violent emotion, that she had been a sorceress, and in a moment of -frenzy had dashed her only child, a baby, to the floor and killed it. -She, a mother, had killed her child, and could she ever be happy again, -could God forgive such as she, could she ever be permitted to see her -murdered child again? She feared she was too wicked. All of us wept -with her, and she was told of the great mercy and pardoning love of -God, and found peace in Christ. - -Mr. Underwood also visited Sam Oui, the village which had learned of -Christ through the example of Haing Ju, and baptized a handful of -Christians there, enrolling a number of catechumens. When people do -not seem quite ripe for baptism, yet have put away idolatry, keeping -the Sabbath, putting away concubines, and living a life of apparent -conformity with the ten commandments, they are enrolled in this class -of catechumens. While I was engaged during the morning with the women, -the “amah” was charged to take care of our little boy, but when the -service was over, as he was nowhere to be seen, we started out to find -him. As we walked down the lane we saw coming toward us a row of some -seven or eight boys of his age (the dirtiest in the town, I am sure), -he in the center, an arm around one on either side, all chatting and -laughing together in the merriest mood possible. How could we help -laughing, how help being half pleased, even while horrified at what -such contact might portend, how many varieties of microbes, not to -mention other things. - -From Haing Ju we took a Korean junk down the river to Pai Chun. We went -on board at night, and as it was bitterly cold, we were told we must -go down under the deck, as there was absolutely no sheltered place -above where we could sleep. The hole to which we were relegated was -not attractive. There were odors of fish ages old, the space was not -high enough even to sit upright in, and barely wide enough for Mr. -Underwood, our child, our “amah” and myself to lie packed side by side -(no turning or moving about) in the stern. - -A lantern glimmered at the other end, it looked very far. There was -water there, and perhaps rats, and certainly great water beetles and -cockroaches, and sometimes, hours and hours after we had been packed -in that gruesome place, a boatman came and crawled over us, and dipped -out buckets of water. Men were tramping back and forth over our heads -all night. I felt sure that some of them would come through, and there -seemed to be enough racket to indicate a storm at sea, a collision or a -fire--at times I was almost convinced it was all three. If it had been, -we certainly could never have made our escape from the trap in which we -were wedged like sardines. However, as we were merely sailing down a -broad, but not very deep river, and could easily have neared the shore -before sinking in most circumstances, things were not so bad as they -seemed, and next morning when we emerged into the bright sunlight what -had been a night fraught with awful probabilities was now simply an -amusing episode. - -All day Sunday we sat on the deck in the sun, singing and enjoying the -brilliant atmosphere. From Pai Chun we proceeded on foot or in chairs -to Hai Ju, and thence to Sorai, where a theological leader’s class was -waiting for Mr. Underwood. Everywhere the warm-hearted welcome which -awaited us was a delightful surprise to me. People, even women and -children, came out miles to meet us, and followed us in crowds when we -left, as if they could not bear to let us go. - -There were only a few beginnings of work in Hai Ju at that time. It -is the capital of the province and rather a demoralized town, even -in a heathen country, full of hangers-on of government officials, -people accustomed to getting a living out of the people through fraud, -bribery, oppression, “_squeezing_” and all sorts of political dirty -work and corruption; evil men and still more evil women spreading the -cancerous disease through the little town, until every one appears to -be steeped in “the lust of the flesh, the lust of the eyes, and the -pride of life,” and worshipers of the god of this world. - -[Illustration: KOREAN WOMEN AT WORK. PAGE 191] - -As a special day had been set for the beginning of the class in Sorai, -and people were coming from all directions to meet us there, we -hastened on to be in time. Walking along the main road thither, Mr. -Underwood overtook a young farmer, with whom he opened conversation -in a friendly way, and asked if he had heard of the Jesus religion. -“_Yayso Kyo?_” “Oh, yes,” was the reply, “I have heard much of it, -many people in this province do that doctrine, it is very good.” “Do -you believe also?” said my husband. “Oh, no, I cannot be a believer,” -replied the man. “These Christians spend their time and money doing -good to others, I must do for myself, I cannot afford to practise this -doctrine.” This was unintentional witness borne to the fair fruit of -Christianity in the man’s believing friends and neighbors. A little -further on, as my chair was set down to rest the coolies, an old -woman ran out of a neighboring shanty to _kugung_ the foreigner. I -told her who I was and why I had come, and asked if she knew of this -doctrine. “Oh, yes, it was good, very good.” “Then why do you not -believe?” “Oh, I sell liquor, that is my business. I cannot do that -and be a Christian.” Another involuntary testimony to the lives of the -Christians of Whang Hai, and to the sincerity of those who had been -taught that the way must be made straight and clean for the coming of -the Lord. - -When we arrived at Sorai I found the Christian women all gathered to -meet me in the house of one whom I had known before in Seoul. They -offered refreshments of their best, persimmons, pears, chestnuts and -eggs, and expressed their pleasure over our coming in the most cordial -and heart-warming way. Most of them I had never seen before, but we -seemed to love each other at first sight, for the bond in Christ is a -very strong one. - -Mr. Kim Yun O, the wealthy man of the village, one who had been a -great sinner but was now one of the strongest and most earnest of the -leaders, had invited us to occupy his new sarang or guest room. It was -quite a commodious sunny room, and we were pleased to find it was quite -new, so we need fear few of our little enemies. - -While Mr. Underwood was holding his classes with the men in the church -all day, patients of all kinds came to me in the mornings for several -hours. Then I taught the girls and boys how to sing the hymns, for they -had never known what it means to sing, and though they made a joyful -noise to the Lord, it was not joyful to the fleshly ear at all, but a -most awful combination of discords, flats and sharps, mixed up in the -most hopeless confusion, whole bunches of keys on one string, moanings, -groanings, sounds of woe as if all the contents of the pit had come -forth before the time, or all the evil spirits exorcised from the -village had returned to spoil their praise. - -The young people were the most hopeful to begin with, and were -soon doing remarkably well. Every afternoon we women had a Bible -class together. Most of those who came were baptized Christians or -catechumens, though some unbelievers were always present. About -twenty-five crowded into Mr. Kim’s anpang each day. It is delightful to -be allowed to teach such women, so hungry for truth, so eager to learn, -so full of humble loving interest in every word, with such a spirit of -childlike faith. - -Mrs. Kim, in whose house we were staying, was a busy woman, and her -life was not an easy one. She was small and frail, with two children, -her husband and old mother to work for, with one servant to help. The -preparation of food for her own family and many Korean guests (for a -Korean gentleman’s guest house is always well filled at meal time) was -in itself no light matter. The rice comes in very rough, only partly -husked, and must be pounded a long while in a great wooden vessel, with -a heavy club, larger at either end, which is almost all that a woman -can lift (a fine exercise for athletic women’s clubs). Water is usually -brought in on the head from quite a distance, brass bowls and spoons -kept bright, garments must be washed and smoothed, with what pains I -have already described, animals cared for, fires made. - -But the country women work in the fields, too, helping to sow the -cotton, tobacco, rice and barley. When the cotton is ripe they pick -and prepare it, and only after much toil is it ready for use. Then -they weave their own cloth and make up their own garments, in the dark -little rooms in which the women live and work. They prepare and dry -certain vegetables for winter’s use, and with much labor, themselves -press out the castor oil which they use in their tiny lamps. In the -fall they make their kimchi for the whole year. - -Timely hints dropped now and then, and the example of a Christian -husband’s care for his wife, have done wonders among the native -Christian homes, and much lightened the hard lot of the women. Of -course we did our own cooking in all these little villages, our -personal entertainment adding nothing to the work of the poor house -wife. The people at Sorai are extremely generous and were constantly -bringing us presents of chickens, eggs, persimmons, etc. We were much -embarrassed by all this bounty, for we knew the people were poor and -that such gifts cost a large sacrifice on their part. - -When one’s wages are not more than ten cents a day a chicken means -quite a good deal of money. Yet we could not refuse their offerings, -for when we tried to do so they felt so hurt we found it was -impossible. The people already at that time were paying the running -expenses of a Christian day school, which they had endowed, by setting -apart the income from certain fields for this purpose, and if the crop -was poor and the income insufficient, they made it up to the required -amount. - -While here in Sorai we had a new and rather unpleasant experience with -the working of the Korean _kang_, which we thought we knew well. In the -midst of winter the wind suddenly turned in the wrong direction for our -fires. The fire being built at one side of the house and the chimney -opening at the other, we made the very chilling discovery, that when -the wind blows into the smoke vent a fire cannot be coaxed to light. -Our room was bitterly cold, and it is surprising how a floor, which can -become intolerably hot, can also under the proper circumstances become -so cold and damp. I was obliged to wrap my rheumatic frame in furs and -rugs, while they brought in a great bowl or wharrow full of glowing -charcoal fire, with which I was comparatively unacquainted. However, -that night the room began dancing about in the giddiest kind of way, -all grew dark--and my husband spent several hours with me in the cold -night air outside our room, in the effort to ward off successive -fainting attacks. When our child, too, complained of headache and -giddiness, we no longer questioned the cause, and henceforth preferred -pure cold air to carbon dioxide. - -It was interesting in the cold, sleety, snowy weather to see how the -Christians managed to attend church, even from long distances. The -women would fold up their clean skirts and put them with their shoes -and stockings on their heads, roll up their pajies or divided skirts -quite high out of the reach of wet, and with a thin cotton apron, or -no outer wrap at all over their heads and shoulders, trudge miles -through snow and mud, facing a cutting wind. Quite a number of people -were examined for baptism while we were there. One old woman, whose -case seemed rather doubtful on account of her ignorance, was asked -what was her dearest wish. “That I may be with Jesus always” was the -reply. “And how do you know you will always be with him?” “Because I am -holding close to him now, and will hold close all the way.” She had at -least learned that Jesus supplies the soul’s whole need, that to be in -his felt presence is heaven, and that to hold and be held by him is the -only way to reach and be kept there. Surely she had the end and aim of -all theology in a nutshell. - -[Illustration: SCHOOL BOYS. - -[Illustration: GIRLS SEWING AND WRITING WITH NATIVE TEACHER. PAGE 191] - -I will copy a few notes from my diary on the testimony given by some of -the people who applied for baptism at this time. - -No. 15, Mrs. Kim: Said her relatives and friends had all been trying -to induce her to believe, but her heart had grown harder and harder, -and she had determined she would not be a Christian; but suddenly one -night she saw herself with awful clearness, a great sinner, had that -moment yielded her heart, almost involuntarily (so irresistible was -the impulse), to Christ, and from that time had had perfect peace and -blessedness. Asked if she had spoken on this subject to unbelievers, -replied in affirmative. Has now been trusting Christ a year and three -months. This woman has done since then much devoted voluntary service -for her Master. - -Another: At a time when those who wished for prayer were asked to raise -their hands, she says she raised hers, and at that moment felt as it -were a knife through her heart. From that time she has felt that she -belonged to Christ, and since then her mind has been at peace. She -prays regularly three times a day, but is praying all the time in her -heart. While she is praying she never falls into sin, but if through -some inadvertence and lack of prayer she sins, she asks God to pardon, -knowing that he will. - -Another, No. 5: “Why do you believe?” “Because Jesus forgave me and -died for me.” “How do you know you are forgiven?” “Because the Bible -says he will forgive all that come to him.” Said he used to have a -wicked heart and worshiped devils, but now his heart and mind were -quite changed. Asked what repentance is, replied that it “was mending -one’s conduct and eating a new mind.” Asked if he had told the good -news to others, said he had, but no one in his neighborhood yet -believes. He cannot read, and asked who Jesus is, says he is God’s -only son. Asked why he died for us, says he doesn’t know. “Do your -neighbors know that you do not sacrifice any more?” “Yes.” “Do you -know you cannot have a concubine?” “Yes.” “Have you suffered anything -for Christ?” “They abuse me behind my back.” (He was the richest and -chief man of his district.) “If you have to suffer severely what will -you do?” “I will bear it, God will help me.” He pays the expenses of -well-taught Christians to go to his home and preach to his neighbors. -He comes a long distance to Sorai to church and seems anxious about his -neighbors’ souls. He came to the class bringing his own rice. - -No. 6: Says he trusts Jesus because he knows he has forgiven his -sins. Knows they are forgiven because his heart is changed, his old -covetousness is all gone, it is now easy to do what Jesus commands. “Do -you ever forget Jesus?” “How could I forget him? How could I forget my -Lord?” - -Another: Says that since spring, when Christ came into her heart, all -has been at peace. Asked, “Who is Jesus?” Replies, “God’s only son.” -“What is he to you?” “We are brethren since we have one Father.” “How -is God your Father?” “All believers are now his children.” “Are your -sins forgiven?” “Entirely forgiven.” “How do you know it?” “My mind is -now at peace. I am entirely happy.” “Are you not sad since your husband -died?” “Since after death we shall all live again at God’s right hand I -feel no anxiety.” “What if difficulties should arise?” “_I don’t know -about the future, but God takes care of me now, and I think he will -continue to do so._ I’ll tell Jesus and ask his help.” “Do you commit -sins now?” “On account of the flesh I cannot escape from sin, I cannot -say I do no sin.” Her father-in-law is not a believer, but though she -lives in his house she keeps the Sabbath and attends worship regularly. - -No. 37 was a Tonghak, rebel and robber. Has believed nearly two years. -“Who is Jesus?” “He is God’s son.” “What has he done for us?” “He died -on the cross, and through his precious blood my sins are forgiven.” “Do -you know this?” “I know it.” “How do you know it?” “I cannot read the -Bible, but as I was a criminal, and Jesus has made me live, I know I am -forgiven.” “Where is Jesus?” “At God’s right hand.” “Anywhere else?” -“There is no place where he is not.” “What is Jesus doing for us?” -“I don’t know, I only know I am saved.” “Have you told others about -Jesus?” “I am always saying, Here was I a criminal, and Jesus forgave -me, and saved me from punishment, and gave me peace of mind, how can I -help but believe.” - -This man comes ten miles to church in all weather. Even when twenty -miles away at work, he would come in late Saturday night to be at -church, stay all day, without his food, and go back at night over a -high mountain pass. He was one of two rebels, who came to the leader -and said they wanted to be followers of Christ and be baptized. -The leader said that if they were sincere Christians they must make -restitution by giving themselves up to justice. One of the two then -went to the Romanists, and is now one of the most notorious of the gang -of robbers and desperados under the lead of Father Wilhelm. The other, -this applicant, gave himself up, was thrown into jail and condemned -to death. While in jail he astounded the jailers and prisoners by -continually singing hymns of joy and praise. The prisoners declared he -was mad, as no one could sing like that in such a case. While he was -in jail the king escaped to the Russian legation, all prisoners were -set free and he was released. He has been a happy, consistent Christian -ever since. - -Another is a young man of nineteen, has only lately begun to trust in -Christ. His father is a believer, his mother and wife are not. Baptism, -he says, is a sign of faith in Christ. He thinks it would never do not -to be baptized, but insists he is saved now. Says he knows and feels -it in his heart. He has destroyed all idols, and keeps the Sabbath. He -goes over the mountain three miles to church and allows no laborers to -work for him on Sunday, though he is obliged to pay them for the day’s -work as though they had. He comes at his own expense to attend the -class. - -The above are given merely as a few specimens of the kind of questions -and replies commonly heard at these examinations. Only those whose -changed lives were witnessed to by leading Christians who know them -were baptized. After a delightful stay with these simple-hearted -Christians, where the world and all its evils seemed far removed, and -God very near, we were obliged at the close of the class to start back -to the capital. Our three temporarily hired coolies had forsaken us, -disliking to wait so long (about three weeks) without work, and it was -an impossibility to replace them in that neighborhood, where nobody -ever rides in a chair. - -So we had to hire an ox-cart or _talgoogy_, the most primitive of all -possible wheeled conveyances, and in it, with our loads tucked in with -all our mattresses, quilts, rugs and pillows, was placed our little -treasure, our only child, with the woman servant. - -With great difficulty a man was found who consented to help my own -servant carry my chair. But soon an unlooked-for difficulty arose. I -found the ox-cart had gone by a different road from that on which I had -come in my chair, for the former could not cross the narrow bridges -(mere footpaths for one) over the rivers, but must take the fords, far -too long a distance for the chair coolies. Nor could the cart take -the narrow paths over precipitous passes, which the chair must follow -to shorten the road for the carriers. I was assured that all would be -well, the helpers and Christians were with the child, and was forced to -submit to what could not now be helped. Mr. Underwood, after seeing me -well started, paced at a flying rate across to the other road to see -that all was well with the boy, and then back again to the wife. - -At about five o’clock we reached a place where the two roads meet, -but no signs of the _talgoogy_. It was fast growing dark, a mountain -pass lay yet before us, the road was wild and lonely, we wished our -little one was with us. At length we went on to the village just beyond -the pass and waited. Time passed, but no tidings of the cart and its -precious contents. Darkness fell, the cold was bitter. Koreans were -sent out with lanterns to light the way for the belated, or render any -needed help. Still no word. At length Mr. Underwood himself, unable to -wait longer, went out to look for the party. And now with them both in -the lonely mountain, and night upon us, I had double need to trust in -God. One always knows that all will be well, will be for the best, but -as one cannot see whether that _best_ means God’s rod or his staff, the -heart will flutter in dread of the pain. Just to wait without fear upon -him, takes a calm, strong soul, and a full measure of grace. - -At last, thank God, they both came back quite unharmed, only hungry and -cold, but the thought of tigers, leopards and robbers, that might have -met them, only made me realize more fully the mercy which brought them -safe to my arms. - -That night we slept in a small Korean inn quite like all the rest, -only a little smaller and dirtier than most, with domestic animals -and fowls of all sorts quartered round us, the paper door of our room -only separating between them and us. Suddenly, about two or three in -the morning, we were startled out of our sleep by the most terrific -roaring, and the sounds of a general panic in the inn; the excited -shouts of men, women shrieking, and such a chorus of barking, yelping, -cackling, squealing as cannot be described. But the awful roaring, -and a stamping and hustling distinguishable above all, made it seem -probable that one or more wild animals of some sort had invaded the -hostel. Mr. Underwood hastily extinguished our light, which shining -through our door, might attract notice, and went out to discover the -cause of the uproar. He soon came back, saying that a couple of oxen, -usually so meek and tractable, had been fighting, had pulled themselves -loose from their stalls, and had now escaped, one chasing the other -out of the inn. They are enormous creatures, at times like this as -dangerous as any wild beast, and it was remarkable that no one in the -inn was seriously hurt, as they could hardly have escaped being, had -the oxen remained fighting in the cramped confines of that little -place. - -[Illustration: KOREAN STREET. PAGE 18] - -[Illustration: HORSES IN AN INN YARD. PAGE 198] - -Nothing worthy of note occurred during the remainder of our return -trip, except one night, when camped in the tiniest and most comfortless -little room, we were again wakened by an awful roaring. The sort of -roar that every mother hears with a quaking heart, and knows right well -what it imports. She knows it comes from a wild beast in her child’s -throat, and jumps to the rescue. Croup in a hut with paper doors and -windows full of cracks and holes, where the wind steals in on all -sides, many miles from home, is not too easily defied. But we soon had -a wharrow fire and hot water, a croupy child’s mother always has ipecac -and flannels close at hand, and while we changed hot applications -for an hour or so, we were forced to draw on our benumbed inventive -faculties for novel stories to interest the half-suffocated child. The -following day we were obliged to continue our journey, for exposure and -discomfort there exceeded what must be met on the road, but the child, -usually slow in rallying from those attacks, on this occasion made an -especially quick and favorable recovery. - -In April of this year, 1896, Dr. J. McLeavy Brown, of the English -Custom’s Service, was placed in charge of the nation’s finance by a -royal decree, a post which he continued to fill for a long time to the -benefit of all concerned, except the squeezing officials, who, now that -their opportunities in that line were curtailed, proceeded to squeal -lustily instead. - -In the summer of 1896, Miss Jacobson, an enthusiastic young missionary -nurse, who had learned the language with wonderful quickness, and won -the hearts of Koreans on all sides, was very ill with dysentery for -several weeks. She recovered apparently and returned to her work, but -was soon attacked by violent fever, which refused to yield to the usual -remedies, until at length the existence of a local organic disease -was developed, which in spite of every effort carried our dear sister -away. But her deathbed was a place of rejoicing rather than mourning. -More than one exclaimed it was good to be there. Bitterly as we knew we -should feel the loss of so helpful and sympathetic a sister later, we -could but enter into her joy at that hour. Her bedroom seemed like the -ante-room to the throne-room itself. Her face was wreathed in smiles, -and a look of unearthly glory lay upon it. Her words were all of joy -and hope, and full of the rapture the realized presence of the Lord -only can give. - -We felt we had no right to make place for selfish mourning there, she -was so manifestly happy, and to depart was so far, far better. When -her remains were taken to the cemetery, now becoming rich with much -precious dust, her casket was carried on the shoulders of the native -Christians, who sang joyful songs of the better land all the way. It -was like the return of a conqueror, and the country people, as they saw -and heard, asked what kind of death or funeral was this, all triumph -and joy? Where were the signs and sounds of despair that follow a -heathen corpse? - -To carry a dead body is looked upon as very degrading. So the fact that -the native Christians insisted on doing this, and would not allow hired -bearers to touch the dear form, showed how they all loved and honored -Miss Jacobson; and I have told it to show the kind of feeling which -exists between the people and their foreign teachers, as well as to lay -a little tribute to the memory of a noble and devoted fellow-worker. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - - Our Mission to Japan--Spies--One Korean Summer--The Queen’s - Funeral--The Procession--The Burial by Starlight--The - Independents--The Pusaings--The Independents Crushed. - - -In the following spring Mr. Underwood was asked to go to Japan, with -instructions to assist his highness, the second prince, to leave for -America. - -It was thought best that he should there, under Christian tutors, -prepare for college, or a military training, and my husband, realizing -of what immense importance this plan well carried out might be to Korea -in the future, gladly consented to accept the mission. All arrangements -were made by the government in Seoul, and Mr. Underwood was instructed -exactly as to the wishes of his majesty. To our combined amusement -and indignation, we soon discovered we were followed everywhere by -spies from the day we left home. Mr. Underwood’s letters to gentlemen -in Tokyo, although mailed with care and secrecy, were read by others -before they reached the hands of those to whom they were addressed. We -were shadowed everywhere, and even had the creepy pleasure of knowing -that a detective slept on the landing just below our room. - -Thus for the second time in our lives were we honored by being made -the special objects of espial, connected in the respectable mind with -criminal courts, jails and all sorts of ill odors and combinations of -the unutterable. However, as we had nothing on our consciences, I -believe we rather enjoyed our detectives, aside from a slight indignant -sense of insult. We certainly took a mischievous pleasure in the hunt. -There were undoubtedly those who considered it to their interest to -keep the prince in Japan, but when the king’s commands were fully -understood, no further difficulty was made, and the long-desired end -was gained, as far as a departure for America was concerned, but as -through influence beyond our control, and without our knowledge till -later, a Romanist interpreter was sent with him, the plans and hopes -for his royal highness in America were destined to disappointment. - -In the following summer sickness entered our home, a debilitating fever -which would not yield to treatment kept my husband week after week -confined to his bed. His strength of course steadily failed, he became -extremely emaciated and unable to retain nourishment in any form. We -were at the river Han, in a house on a bluff, where we usually spend -the hot and rainy season; but it was several miles distant from the -city, advisers and remedies. It was lonely work, not knowing what turn -the disease might take, with friends and helpers so far away. - -At length, one night my trials seemed to reach a climax. The rain -poured down, more like a foe with iron blows besieging a fort than -water from the clouds. The wind blew with almost hurricane fury and the -lightning was constantly accompanied by terrific claps of thunder. My -husband was too ill to notice and in a heavy stupor. Soon, however, the -poor thatched roof began leaking like a sieve, while water flowed in -around the window and door casements. - -The invalid lay in a heavy bed, extremely difficult at any time to -move, still more so with his weight and the necessity of moving it as -gently as possible. Our cousin, a lady of no great size or strength, -and I managed by exerting all our combined force to shove the lumbering -piece of furniture to a place where water did not drip on it and the -invalid; and then ran to find pieces of sacking, bath towels, sheets, -waterproofs, etc., to soak up the flood that was constantly pouring in -everywhere and dripping through from the second floor to the first. - -The kitchen was almost emptied of utensils, which were placed under the -waterfalls all over the house. While every now and then my husband’s -bed must be pushed or dragged to a new place. The frail house rocked -as if it must surely fall before the fury of the storm. It was one of -those occasions which probably every one experiences, once or twice -in a lifetime, when inanimate nature seems to join with untoward -circumstance, and even God himself seems to have hidden his face, and -all the seen and unseen powers of the universe to have combined against -body and soul. But he who has drunk the very dregs of every bitterness -we ever taste never forsakes us no matter how dark things look, and I -knew on that awful night we were not as desolate as we seemed. - -In the morning Dr. Avison came out from the city and kindly invited me -to have Mr. Underwood taken there to his home, which was on a hill with -plenty of breeze, and where I should have advice and medicines close at -hand. So our sick man, placed on a long cane chair with poles attached -to each side, covered with waterproofs, blankets and umbrellas, and -carried by eight coolies, was taken back to Seoul. - -Not more than a week later our little one was stricken with the -same fever. Both father and child were desperately sick for another -fortnight, but both were spared, and after weeks of prostration moved -about like pale skeletons, whom nobody found it easy to recognize. - -About this time a great deal of uneasiness was beginning to be felt -among certain classes over the king’s long stay in a foreign legation, -especially by all pro-Japanese, and in October, 1896, the king was -formally requested by a Council of State to change his residence. In -the following February, at about the time when Mr. Waeber was leaving -the country and another Russian representative coming to take his -place, the royal household was removed to the Chong Dong palace, near -the English consulate and American legation. Russian officers were in -charge of all Korean troops, and Russian influence predominant. - -In October of 1897 the king assumed the title of emperor, and -immediately after the dead queen’s rank was raised to that of empress. -In the following November, her imperial highness’ funeral took place. -It is common among people of high rank to keep the honored remains -embalmed and sealed for months, or even years, until a suitable time -and place for burial has been pronounced by soothsayers, and so two -years after decease, after repeated consultations with these costly and -ghostly advisers, who repeatedly changed their directions, a grave site -was finally decided upon and prepared and a day set. - -Two weeks before this, daily sacrifices were offered in Kyeng-won -palace, and on the first and fifteenth of each month since her death -special sacrifices had been offered. All court officials wore heavy -mourning and all citizens wore half mourning. - -The grounds selected for the grave site were about three or four miles -from the east gate outside the city, and many acres in extent. Money -flowed like water, and no pains or expense were spared to make the -service and everything connected with it as magnificent and stately as -the queen’s rank and the king’s devotion to her memory required. The -grave was prepared of solid masonry at the summit of a mound fifty -feet high, a costly temple for the temporary shelter of the remains, -where the last rites were to be performed, was erected near its foot, -and a number of other buildings were put up for the accommodation of -the court, the foreign legations and other invited guests, for the -funeral was to be held at night. Refreshments and entertainment was -provided for Koreans and foreigners, officials, friends, soldiers and -servants to the number of several thousands. - -A courteous invitation was sent from the Foreign Office to the -legations, inviting the private residents (foreigners) of Seoul to -share this hospitality. The casket in a catafalque was carried from -the palace at eight o’clock on the morning of the 21st of November, -attended by five thousand soldiers, four thousand lantern bearers, -six hundred and fifty police, and civil and military dignitaries of -innumerable grades. The scene was one of extreme and varied interest. -Thousands of people crowded the streets, arches were erected over -the road at intervals. There were numberless scrolls recounting the -queen’s virtues, magnificent silk banners, beautiful small chairs, -wooden horses (for use in the spirit world), which, with all the varied -accoutrements of ancient and modern arms, and the immense variety in -the dress and livery of court and other officials, retainers, menials, -chair coolies and mapoos, made a scene quite beyond description. - -The emperor and crown prince did not follow the bier until one o’clock -in the afternoon. His majesty had sent us a special invitation to be -present and go in the procession, but we preferred to go quietly later, -as humble private mourners for a loved and deeply lamented friend, in a -spirit which had nothing in common with the brilliant procession. - -When we arrived at nearly eight o’clock in the evening, we found the -extensive grounds lighted by red and yellow (the royal and imperial -colors) native lanterns, not two feet apart, in double rows, along a -winding and circling road for a distance of three miles. Brilliant -banners streamed forth on the air, and here and there all over the -field were brightly blazing fires of fagots, where groups of soldiers -stood warming themselves, for it was bitterly cold. It was a starlit -night of crystal, sparkling clearness. - -There is much that is fitting in this custom of holding funerals in -these calm and holy hours of night, when things of time and sense -dwindle and look insignificant, when the world’s bustle is all -hushed, when the unsympathetic glare of happy day is veiled, and -only the soothing balm of the quiet and darkness in harmony with the -sorrow-stricken heart is to be felt. In that hour the divine presence -seems to be most imminent, or more fully realized, and eternity and the -spirit world close around us. - -After six sets of prayers and sacrifices, and a final ceremony of -farewell, the remains were to be interred. At three o’clock A.M. -everything was in readiness. A beautiful yellow silk imperial -carrying-chair, for the use of the royal spirit, was first taken up the -hill in great state, by the appointed bearers. Then followed another of -green silk, and lastly the royal casket on its bier. Long ropes were -attached to the latter, held by men standing as closely as possible to -each other, along the whole length, in order to insure the greatest -steadiness. In addition, of course, were the regular bearers, while one -stood on the front of the bier directing and guiding all. Everything -was done with beautiful precision, there was not a misstep nor a jar. -It is said that on such occasions a bowl filled to the brim with water -is placed on the bier, and if a drop overflows severe punishment and -disgrace falls upon the carriers. - -A solemn and stately procession of soldiers and retainers, bearing -banners and lanterns of alternate red and yellow, accompanied and -followed the casket, marching in double file on either side and in -close ranks, all uttering in unison a low and measured wailing as they -advanced. Thus all that remained of our brilliant queen was carried to -its rest. - -Nothing could be more impressive, solemn and beautiful than this -procession, circling up the hill, beneath the clear faithful watch of -the stars and the fathomless depths of limitless space, in that dark -hour just before day. After the bier followed the king and prince, who -personally superintended the lowering of the precious remains into the -tomb, even entering the crypt to see that the casket was well rolled -back under the great block of granite which covered it. - -Sacrifices and prayers were again offered, the gigantic wooden horses -were burned, and the mourners retired. An audience given to all the -diplomats and invited guests, for the expression of farewells and -condolences, ended the ceremonies at about eight o’clock in the morning. - -For some time before and after the removal of the king to his own -palace in Chong Dong, a growing feeling of anxiety and distrust -was felt over the preponderance of Russian influence, which found -expression in the formal request made to the king to leave the legation. - -While his majesty was still residing there, and before the uneasiness -with regard to Russia had arisen, the “Independent Club” had been -organized by Mr. So Jay Peel, with the consent of the king, to -emphasize Korea’s independence of China. The old columns, where tribute -collectors from that nation were received, were pulled down and a -new Independence Arch erected, as well as a large building for the -official business of the club, called Independence Hall. The crown -prince contributed a thousand dollars for this purpose. The club was -immensely popular with all classes and many of the nobility as well -as the commoners were members. But the real object of the club was -to keep Korea independent of _all_ foreign powers in general, and of -Russia and Japan, as well as China, in particular; to protest against, -and prevent, if possible, the usurpation of office and influence by -foreigners, to stand for the rights of the people, the autonomy of the -nation, its gospel being in a word, “Korea for the Koreans.” - -So that now, when the menace seemed to shift its quarters from the west -to the north, the Independence Club began to make itself heard against -Russia. - -A word with regard to one or two of its leaders may be of interest. -Mr. So Jay Peel had previously belonged to the progressive party, and -had been obliged to flee to Japan, where after a short residence he -went to America. He was of very high rank and a wealthy family, but -his property having been confiscated he worked his own way, graduating -from a first-class college with highest honors. Then taking a civil -service examination, he had become an American citizen. He obtained a -government position, which gave him light work with sufficient salary -to enable him to take a course in medicine, after which he received a -very fine government medical appointment, on a competitive examination. - -But his heart turned to his country, and after the Japanese war and -the establishment of Japanese prestige, he returned to Korea, where -he became adviser to the king, and soon after started a newspaper -called the “Independent,” which was printed half in English and half -in the native character. Mr. So proved himself a gifted, brilliant and -eloquent man, full of enthusiastic devotion to the emancipation and -welfare of his country, perhaps too impatient and precipitate in trying -to hasten the accomplishment of these great ends, a fault common -with young and ardent patriots. Mr. So was the first president of the -club, and was succeeded by Mr. Yun Chee Ho, a son of General Yun, who -had led the attack on the palace for the rescue of the king. Like Mr. -So, he had been for some years away from Korea, having been educated -partly in China in an American Methodist Mission school, and partly -under the same auspices in America. Both he and Mr. So are members of -American Protestant churches. Mr. Yun, who, however, still retains his -Korean citizenship, is also both a fine writer and speaker, and an -enthusiastic patriot and progressionist. He afterwards succeeded Mr. -So in the editorship of the “Independent.” Their following consisted -quite largely of impulsive, eager young men, many of them Christians, -very many of them students, and probably included the majority of the -brilliant, energetic, and sincerely patriotic young men of the capital. - -As has been said, after Mr. Waeber’s removal and the king’s departure -from the Russian legation, and a new Russian minister had arrived, -Korea became more than ever subject to Russian influence. Russians -swarmed in the palace, the army and the treasury were completely in -their hands, and their absolute supremacy seemed only a question of a -few brief weeks or months. - -At this time, February, 1898, the Independence Club offered a -petition to the king asking the removal of all Russians from the army -and government offices. The Russian minister requested the king to -state his wish in this matter, and soon after, being informed in the -affirmative, the Russians were all withdrawn for the time. April 12, -1898, coincident with this, Port Arthur was ceded to the Russians by -Japan, a fact which it was thought by many had much to do with the -retirement from Korea. It is most improbable that the action of Russia -was in this case out of consideration for the preferences of Koreans. - -The Independence Club now grew more and more popular and held frequent -loud and clamorous meetings, at which public affairs were discussed -with great freedom, the wrong doings of high officials severely -censured and held up to public scorn, and unpopular laws sharply -criticised and bitterly inveighed against. They were full of hope and -patriotism, their aim and expectation seeming to be to have all wrongs -righted, all abuses done away with, and Korea remade in a day a free -government and people. - -The Independence Club held large mass meetings. The shops were closed, -the whole population was stirred, and even women held meetings, -incredible as it may seem. As a result of which a written petition was -sent to the government, asking for seven reforms, abolishing torture -and other objectionable customs, and granting more liberties. - -The cabinet approved the request, the king added six more new rules for -reform, and Yun Chee Ho was made vice-president of the Privy Council. -At once another general meeting of the public was held, and a committee -appointed by them printed tens of thousands of copies of the new laws, -and distributed them everywhere. Among the thirteen new rules, it was -suggested and consented to that there should be established a sort of -popular congress, a law-making body, with powers advisory (certainly -very limited), composed of one hundred people, fifty of whom were to be -elected by the popular vote, and fifty to be appointed by the king. But -now the government began to take the alarm and to realize that they had -opened the sluice gates of a flood which threatened to overwhelm them. - -The night before the first election to this body was to have taken -place at Independence Hall, seventeen leading members of the club were -arrested. It was the intention of the minister of law to put these -people to death, but the populace rose _en masse_, crowded and excited -meetings were held everywhere, and so much feeling shown, that the -decision was changed, and they were sentenced to banishment instead. -But the populace continued to rage. Large masses of people, who, while -they did not arm themselves or resort to violence, were angry and -threatening, gathered in front of the government offices in all public -places, demanding the release of the seventeen or that they themselves -should be arrested. At length, after five days’ of threatening -demonstrations and angry mobs, the seventeen were released. Now, -indeed, the Independents felt they had gained a victory, the government -had been defeated, and the people henceforth could accomplish anything. - -The demand for the fulfilment of the king’s still unfulfilled promises -of thirteen reforms was again renewed. On this the officials in person -presented themselves before the crowds, commanding them to disperse and -promising everything that was asked if they would do so, as a result of -which the people quietly dispersed. - -After long and patient waiting, without result, no promises kept or -reforms instituted, and on the contrary, the bad officials who had -been put out of office again reinstated, the people assembled again -one month later at Chong No (the great thoroughfare) to renew their -demands. The police were then called up by their chief and told to go -to Chong No, and regardless of consequences draw their swords and put -to death all of the unarmed multitude who would not disperse. Almost to -a man, the police began throwing off their official badges, saying they -were one with the people, and absolutely refusing to obey such orders. - -The soldiers were then called out, large bodies of troops stationed in -the main thoroughfares, and the crowds dispersed at the point of the -bayonet. - -The Independents then asserted it must be bad officials, and not -the king, who were thus oppressing them, and that their petitions -could never have reached his majesty. They, therefore, according to -long-established custom with petitions for royal favors, all convened -in front of the palace. Thousands of men sat there quietly, night and -day, for fourteen days waiting to be heard. - -It was a thrilling and impressive sight. There was nothing laughable -about those rows of silent, patient, determined citizens. Many had -their food brought to them, some had little booths or tents where they -prepared meals or slept, while others watched and waited, a few went -away to take food, only to return as speedily as possible. The people -had come to the palace to stay, until an answer could be had from the -king. - -After the Independents had been camped for some days thus in front of -the palace, the “_Pusaings_,” or “Peddlers Guild,” gathered and camped -in another part of the city, with the avowed intention of attacking -them. - -The “_Pusaings_” are, as their name indicates, a guild of peddlers, -bound together as a secret society for mutual benefit and protection. -They have connections and branches all over the country, and are sworn -to render each other assistance whenever needed. Like the Masons, they -have secret passwords and signs, by which they make themselves known to -each other, and any member of this great guild meeting another, even -for the first time, is bound to help him to the full extent of his -ability. In this way they soon become extremely powerful, and feared -by high and low, rich and poor. They could assemble a formidable army -at short notice, and their reputation as a ruffianly body of men has -long been established. During the reign of the Tai Won Kun, that crafty -and astute old politician decided to make friends of this dangerous -guild, rather than antagonize them, and accordingly granted them a -number of special privileges, one of which was the right to collect -taxes of certain kinds of merchandise, in return for which they were to -be regularly organized by the government and to place themselves under -the control of governors of provinces and other officials, holding -themselves ready for service at any time. They wear a peculiar straw -hat and a somewhat different dress from other Koreans, so that they are -easily recognized where ever seen. - -On the appearance of this large body of “_Pusaings_” the king sent -word to the people, in order to calm their suspicions, that they need -have no fear of the Peddlers, as the police should be ordered to keep -them back, and a cordon of police was therefore drawn around the -petitioners. At length, however, the “_Pusaings_” made an attack one -day at an early hour in the morning, when some of the Independents, -who had retired during the night or had gone to their breakfast, were -away, and the number considerably reduced. The police were immediately -withdrawn, and the whole assemblage of Independents were driven away, -and many of them seriously injured. When they attempted to return the -way was barricaded by soldiers, and their enemies, the “_Pusaings_” -were being feasted with food sent out from the palace. The populace -then assembled in large numbers, with the determination to drive away -the Peddlers, which they did, wounding and killing a few. Shortly -after, however, a second battle was fought, in which the people were -forced to retreat and one of the Independents was killed. - -The people’s party then again assembled at Chong No, when the king -again sent, promising he would give all they asked if they would -disperse, which they accordingly did once more. Ten days later the king -called them to meet before the palace. On that occasion he came out to -them, standing on a platform built for the purpose, with his officials -around him, and the members of the foreign legations occupying a tent -at one side, and a large number of other foreigners also present. This -was indeed a new thing in the history of so hoary a nation for the -king to come out to confer with the populace on matters of state. The -president of the Independents at that time, Kung Yung Kun, and the -ex-president, Yun Chee Ho, were called up and presented by the king -with a document printed on yellow imperial paper, in which he solemnly -promised the establishment of the thirteen reforms. - -The meeting then dispersed, and the people waited another thirty -days, _but nothing came to pass_. With wonderful determination and -persistence, worthy of success like the widow in our Lord’s parable, -who waited long on the unjust judge till by continual coming she -wearied him and obtained her desire, they again assembled at Chong No -and renewed their demands. - -Had they only possessed a Hampton, a Cromwell, a Washington, or a -Roland, history might have repeated itself once more. And yet perhaps -it was no more the want of leaders of the right fearless stamp, than -the need of thousands of such determined dauntless, unconquerable souls -as those who stood back of Cromwell and Washington. - -They, however, renewed their requests, and insisted they would allow -no government business to be done until the king’s promises were -fulfilled. Soldiers were sent out from time to time and dispersed them, -but they gathered again and again. - -At length the government accused them of scheming to establish a -republic and elect a president, and bodies of soldiers and police were -placed all over the city. Wholesale arrests were made, little groups of -even three or four were dispersed by the use of detectives and a very -wide system of espionage, meetings were prevented, the Independents -crushed, and their buildings and property confiscated. Thus, for the -time at least, ended what looked like the beginnings of a revolution, -but the people were not ready and the time not ripe. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - - Itineration Incidents--Kaiwha--Christian Evidences--Buying - Christian Books instead of an Office--Seed Sowing--Moxa’s Boy - in the Well--Kugungers Again--Pung Chung--Pyeng Yang--The Needs - of the Women. - - -Another long trip into the interior was taken the following year, some -newly arrived missionaries from Canada who wished to study methods and -people accompanying us. Just before this Mr. Underwood had revisited -the river villages where there were Christians under his oversight, -and found as usual a steady growth everywhere, not that there are no -drawbacks, none who have backslidden or proved insincere, but that such -instances are marvelously rare, and that the encouragements far exceed -the discouragements, that the little groups are steadily growing in -numbers, in enlightenment and the home life is vastly higher in tone. -At Haing Ju a commodious new chapel had been built, a fact which the -people had kept as a surprise for the missionary. As usual he found new -groups of believers which had sprung into life since his previous visit. - -The beginning of one of these at Kimpo, as related by Mr. Shin, was -very interesting. Mr. Shin said that one night as he lay asleep he -thought he saw the Moxa come up to him, with the long walking-stick -in his hand which he uses on his country trips. Prodding the sleeper -vigorously with it, he said, “Come, come, why don’t you go to work; get -up and go over there (pointing across the river to Kimpo) and pass -on the Word.” Shin woke up, but fell asleep again, and again the Moxa -came back and even more urgently bade him get up, and go and carry the -gospel to Kimpo. Again he awoke, and the third time fell asleep, and -dreamed as before. He knew no one at Kimpo and had no reason to think -there was any more hopeful opening there than elsewhere, but the dream -impressed him so strongly, that he felt he must go. When he reached -there, he found one or two families whose interest had become awakened -through some books, and who were longing for some one to come and -teach them more. One man, once a burly and notorious prize-fighter, is -now the leader among the Christians in that vicinity, and one of the -shining lights among the river villages, and this same Kimpo is one of -the most promising centers of work. - -The training class, the instruction of which was part of Mr. -Underwood’s business in the interior that fall, was to be held in Hai -Ju. The class was taught five hours each day, and women who would come -were met and taught by me in my room. One hour after the men’s class in -the afternoon was given to street preaching, our Canadian friends, Dr. -Grierson and Mr. McRae, helping immensely with music and singing and -in the distribution of tracts. A general meeting for prayer and Bible -study was held in the class room every evening. - -When the class had adjourned, we proceeded to make the usual circuit of -the part of the province under our care. As on the river, so here along -the sea and in the mountains, the numbers of new centers of gospel -growth were amazing. “It springeth up he knoweth not how.” In one place -a couple of old men, travelling along rather weary, sat down by the -roadside and as they rested sang a hymn. A farmer whose house was near, -overhearing the strange words of the song, came and questioned, and -ere long became a believer, with his family. From this household the -blessing overflowed for neighbors and friends. In another case a young -bride made a strong stand for Christ in the heathen family into which -she had married, until she had won over the entire family to the same -faith, and they again had brought others. These are only a couple of -examples that were paralleled in many communities. - -Some of the answers of these poor half-taught people when catechised -were given in a previous chapter, another that of an old woman I -thought significant and touching. When asked where Jesus was, she said -promptly, “He’s right here with me all the time.” “Yes, but where else -is he?” Confused and troubled that she could not satisfy the Moxa, she -said, “I’m only a poor ignorant old woman, I don’t know where else -he is, but I _know_ he is right here in my house all the time.” The -devotion of the people to us, because through our hands had come the -bread of life, was to me exceedingly affecting, and everywhere the -relation existing between the people and their Moxas is a peculiarly -close and tender one. When one of the missionaries was sick for some -time, the women in the country villages through a large section held -united daily prayer for her for several weeks. This without her -knowledge, quite spontaneously, and without prearrangement among the -different localities. - -The following year I was providentially hindered from making the -trip to the country with my husband, but in 1900, with Dr. Whiting, -Mr. Underwood and our little son, I was again able to go to Whang -Hai province. We started in February, and as there was now a little -steamer which had begun to ply between Hai Ju and Chemulpo, we decided -to profit by it, as this would be both easier and cheaper than the -old way. _Kaiwha_ (as they call progress) had “_twessoed_” (become) -considerably since our last trip. A railroad had been laid between -Seoul and Chemulpo, with trains traveling about fifteen miles an -hour. The steamers referred to are a marvel also as specimens of said -_kaiwha_. About the size of an ordinary despatch boat, or small tug, -they are not too commodious. - -[Illustration: CANDY BOY] - -There are two cabins, neither of which is high enough for tall people -to stand erect in, one of which, with hardly room for three or four -to occupy it with comfort, is packed with the unhappy second-class -passengers. The other is somewhat larger, about twelve feet long by six -wide. This room contains a table and six chairs, and in it are often -stowed from ten to twenty first-class passengers. Here one meets “the -world.” Korean officials, Korean, Chinese or Japanese merchants, French -Romanist priests, strolling acrobats, singers, dancing girls, and -Protestant missionaries. All except the latter smoke until the air will -slice nicely, and many of them indulge in native or foreign liquor till -their society is almost past endurance. - -The boat follows the river northward past the historical island of -Kangwha, with its picturesque walls and gates, till it flows into the -sea, an arm of which our course crosses at this point to reach the -shore on which lies the little village which is the port for the city -of Hai Ju. On the day in question, when we profited for the first by -all these contrivances of _kaiwha_, the ice was still in the river, -ours being only the second trip made since it began to break. Nothing -could be seen on all sides but great blocks of ice, much larger than -our little craft, and all in a conspiracy apparently to prevent our -advance, banging and pushing us, now on one side and now on the other. -With much panting and puffing, occasionally sustaining a pretty severe -shock but quickly gaining advantage lost and shoving aside her clumsy -opponents, our boat steadily forced her passage onward and gradually -gained the clear waters of the sea. This trip lasted only sixteen -hours, while it would have taken three days overland. - -We landed at half past eight on the edge of a long stretch of mud -flats, covered with slimy boulders and stones, all of which now lay -under a foot of half frozen snow, which hid the rocks and made the -going very precarious in the darkness. There was only one warm room to -be had and no food, while the “warm room” was only a little less cold -than out of doors. Thoroughly chilled, tired and hungry, and somewhat -dispirited, as hungry folks are apt to be, we all retired to the floor, -to rest finely, and waken in a better mind next morning, none the worse -for our seafaring. - -At Hai Ju the believers gathered around us with the warmest welcome. -They were all mourning the loss of a beloved leader who had died a -short time before. We of course held meetings with them during the two -days, which were all we could spare at that time, saw and talked with -all who would come, trying to strengthen and comfort the believers, and -promising if possible to remain longer with them on our return. One -poor young wife whose husband had given up Christianity and gone back -to the his old life, and whose heathen mother-in-law was persecuting -her cruelly, excited our pity. Pale, emaciated and tearful, she came -begging our advice and help. - -From Hai Ju we proceeded to Chang Yun Eub, where the training class -of leaders was to be held this year, and where Dr. Whiting and I -had planned to hold a somewhat similar class for women. On the way -a stranger, seeing my husband was an American, asked if he knew “a -certain ’_Un Moxa_’ (Preacher Underwood) who sometimes came down that -way and taught people to be good and kind to each other,” showing that -he had been reading from the book of native Christian practice. All -along this road, where only a few years before there was absolute -ignorance of the gospel, we found evidences of the dawning light. Here -and there in a wayside inn we found a Christian book, or a family -half timidly beginning to believe. Everywhere they had heard of “the -doctrine,” and heard well of it. - -Everywhere there was a pleasant welcome for us and a ready ear for our -story. At Chang Yun Eub, quite a number of Christian women had gathered -to meet and welcome us. One or two days after reaching there I took a -ten-mile ride in a bitter wind to visit a sick woman, which resulted in -severe influenza and bronchitis, which, though I managed to fight off -for five days, at length confined me to my room and bed for three long -weeks. Many of the women had come from five to twenty miles on foot -to study with us, so it was bitterly disappointing, but Dr. Whiting -did her own part and mine, too, nobly. Nearly all the villages in that -district were represented by the local leaders and pastors at Mr. -Underwood’s class. They at this time organized a missionary society, -which they themselves originated and planned in part, before our -arrival. They perfected their scheme with Mr. Underwood’s advice. - -Taking a map of the district, they arranged to work in couples, and to -each man was assigned four heathen villages, each to be visited once a -month, each man pledging himself to do this work every Sunday during -the year. Two superintendents were appointed to oversee the general -work, advise and help these missionaries, and report to Mr. Underwood. -All were to go at their own expense. - -By the time the class was over I was able to be carried along the road -in my chair, and only one who has been shut in for three weeks, in a -tiny room not eight feet high, without a pane of glass in it, quite -alone most of the time, can realize how glad I was to be released into -the fresh, sweet air and sunshine. Before leaving Chang Yun we bade a -long farewell to one of the Christian women, who with a smile and the -sweet words, “It’s all grace, it’s all love,” fell gently asleep in -Jesus. Dr. Whiting, in accordance with previous plans, did not go with -us further, but returned to Seoul. After leaving Chang Yun, our first -stop was made at the village of On Chang, where we met quite a little -handful of believers. One of these, a woman who was the first convert -in that place, had been much troubled and burdened with a sense of -guilt. At length she heard that in Chang Yun there were people that -could tell her of One who could forgive sins. She went forthwith and -learned of Jesus and found peace and pardon, and came back to spread -the good tidings and “pass on the word” to her neighbors. - -One of these women was a peddler, a class who have to make some -sacrifices to keep the Sabbath. Nearly all their business is done at -the little fairs or market days, which take place every five days at -one or another of the hamlets in a certain circuit. Quite often one of -these days falls on a Sunday, and so a whole five days’ profit is lost. -But this makes no difference, the day is cheerfully kept; another who -kept an inn as cheerfully decided to sell no more liquor, her chief -source of profit. - -Our next stopping place was at Cho Chun, and as soon as we neared the -vicinity, we were met by men, women and children, who had walked out -to meet us and conduct us to the home of the leader, in this case the -richest and chief man of the whole neighborhood. People professing -Christianity gathered here from several small villages, were examined -and many baptized. It seemed too hard that we had only so short a time -to stay in these places where we were needed so much. Most of the -women actually wept when we were obliged to say farewell, and the men -and boys followed us miles, sometimes to the next stage in our journey. -They are touchingly grateful for the little we do for them, while we -thank God for allowing us to learn from them, their simple childlike -faith and entire dependence on him. - -Mrs. Ha, the wife of the leader, was the only one in the village who -could read, and she taught the other women beautifully. Calm, strong, -intelligent, she seemed to me a rare type of a Korean woman, and one -who was destined to be very useful if she were only better instructed. -She was well acquainted with the Gospels and Acts, the only Scriptures -till quite lately in their hands, and with nearly all the hymns. But -her opportunities for study and instruction were also very few. - -After leaving Cho Chun nearly twelve miles distant was our next -destination, a little country town of about two thousand people, which -we reached after a few hours’ travel. Here we lodged in a neat and -comfortable little building consisting of two rooms, with a lean-to -kitchen, which the natives had built for us near to the church, half at -their own expense. The steps by which we ascended to our rooms were the -family ancestral worship stones, which the Christians had once greatly -treasured, but for which they had no further use. The women flocked in -to greet me, and next day I had the larger room, sixteen by twenty-four -feet, crowded with heathen women who came to see the foreign woman and -child, but were willing to hear about Christ. Gifts of candies, fruits -and other food poured in as usual. - -Many were examined for baptism, and gave most satisfactory evidence of -conversion, but among them all one deaf old woman interested me most. -She was very deaf and stupid. It seemed almost impossible for even the -Korean leader to make her hear or understand the questions. She was -most anxious to be baptized, but how to learn whether she knew enough -of the gospel, we were at a loss to discover. - -At last a question seemed to reach her, “Where are you going when you -die?” Her face brightened and the answer came, “I’m going to Jesus.” -Mark, not heaven, but Jesus. This is the keynote that is always struck, -Jesus, their stay now, and hope hereafter, their wisdom, righteousness, -and sanctification. - -The first news of the gospel was brought here to Eul Yul by a man of -high family, considerable wealth and official connections, who went to -Seoul with the intention of buying an office. He heard about Christ, -however, while there, and instead of an office, bought a donkey load of -books, which he took back to Eul Yul, and there distributed among his -neighbors. About the same time a certain magistrate, just appointed, -and going down there to his office, who was a friend of my husband’s, -invited him to visit him at Eul Yul when in the country. Mr. Underwood -thanked him, but replied, “You know if I go it will be only with the -one purpose of preaching.” “Certainly, come and preach,” was the answer. - -So Mr. Underwood promised he would do so if his friend, the magistrate, -would see that a large and convenient official building was placed at -his disposal for services while there. This was willingly promised at -once, so the class was appointed to be held there that year, and with -the rally of Christian leaders, and the earnest preparatory work of -the man who had preferred Christ to an office (of which Mr. U. had -not previously been informed), Christianity in Eul Yul began most -auspiciously. Up to the present time, however, he who had been so -earnest in preaching the gospel, and so generous in supporting it, -had never been baptized. The difficulty was that he had two wives, -with neither of whom could he bring himself to part. These concubines -have a strong hold, and justly so, on the men who had made them -part of their family, and on whom they are dependent. All a man’s -magnanimity, generosity and tenderness are appealed to on behalf of -these women, who, unlike the dancing girls, have in the eyes of the -community a certain share of respectability, and are usually not bad -or unprincipled, but have been taught to look with toleration and -complaisance on such a life, the common custom. - -However, now, at last, he decided while we were there to take the step -and put away the second wife, providing her with a home and fields -enough to give her a good income. So he and his wife and baby, and -his grown son with his wife and little one, in company with a number -of others, were baptized. The people of Eul Yul had built their own -church, as well as one-half of the guest house, for their missionary. -When we left, every believer who could walk came to bid us farewell, -“_Pyeng anikasio_” (Go in peace). We had a last prayer and praise -service, and parted with mutual good wishes and regrets, a long train -of men and boys as usual streaming out along the road, with and behind -us. - -Our next station was Pak Chun, six miles away (the distances used to -be twenty and thirty miles, now six, eight or twelve), but before we -reached there we must stop and meet a little band of Christians at -a farm where seed had been dropped by passing believers and where a -whole family had been converted. Here we met a young bride from another -hamlet not far distant, who with her husband had lately become a -believer. At Pak Chun we were received with the usual hearty welcome. -Here I found Mrs. Kim of Sorai like a ministering angel going her -rounds of self-appointed, unpaid ministration of the Word, teaching -the gospel to these poor women, not one of whom could read. A good -many from neighboring villages were examined here, and we held a -baptismal and communion service just before leaving. The church was as -yet unfinished and extremely damp and cold, as well as uncomfortably -crowded, so I sent our little son out of doors to play until we should -finish. But scarcely had the meeting well begun when word came that -“the Moxa’s child had fallen in the well.” Mr. Underwood rushed to -the rescue, giving out a long hymn as he started, to keep the crowd -occupied. However, by the time we reached the scene he had emerged from -his cold bath and been taken to our room. - -The ox-cart with all our packs was standing at the door, just about -to start for the next place. It was the work of a few moments to pull -down the whole load, open our trunks, and get out dry garments, only -too thankful that it had not already trundled several miles on. I -found a dripping, shivering little animal awaiting me as I rushed into -our quarters, but no harm was done, he was soon quite dry and warm, -his wet apparel dangling from the ox-cart acting as an excellent road -sprinkler. Just before leaving I saw a child quite naked, covered with -smallpox pustules in full bloom, standing near our door. I asked one -of the natives if there was much of that disease in the village at -present. “In every house,” was the concise reply. “Why there is none -in the house we are in,” said I, with confidence. “Oh, no, they took -the child out the day you came in order to give you the room,” was -the reassuring answer. We had eaten and slept in that infected little -room, our blankets all spread out there, our trunks opened, everything -we had exposed. We had even used their cooking utensils and spoons and -bowls before our own packs had arrived. For ourselves we had been -often exposed, and believed ourselves perfectly immune. Mr. Underwood -had nursed a case of the most malignant type, and I had been in contact -with it among my patients, but our child! So we sent a swift messenger -with a despatch to the nearest telegraph station, twenty-four hours -away, to Dr. Wells, in Pyeng Yang. He at once put a tube of virus into -the hands of a speedy runner, who arrived with it a week later. - -We found the country full of smallpox, measles, and whooping cough, and -added to our smallpox experience, an exactly similar one with measles. -The record of one of these little villages is much like another. At -Pung Chun, a place with a magistracy, we found the crowds almost -unbearable, especially as the magistrate was away and his substitute -unwilling to help us. No foreign woman or child had ever yet been -there, and we were fairly besieged by people who after any fashion, -lawful or otherwise, were determined to see the curiosities. Too tired -that night to do more than hold a brief meeting with the few Christians -who lived there, we barred, barricaded and curtained ourselves in. -How often under such circumstances I have been able to sympathize as -never before with our blessed Lord, who was forced to withdraw to -the mountains and desert places for a little rest and quiet from the -importunity of the eager selfish crowds, who thronged him and followed -him even there in thousands. We read “They had no leisure as much as -to eat,” and that he forbade the people he healed to spread the news -abroad. Quite uselessly. What weariness, what longing he must at times -have felt for a few hours of quiet and peace, only the hunted can -realize, yet how patient, gentle and compassionate he was! - -The next day I talked to a room packed full of heathen women, those who -could not force an entrance crowding around the doors and windows, -as many as could get a view or hearing. They listened with interest -and attention for more than an hour, asking intelligent questions -occasionally, and treating me with perfect respect. - -In the afternoon I had another and smaller company of those whom Mrs. -Kim of Sorai had culled from among those she had been visiting and -teaching as the most hopeful cases. With these we talked, sang and -prayed, trying as usual to make the most of the few hours we could be -with them. A few people were examined and two or three baptized of -those who had been believing for some time. - -From Pung Chun we passed through a lovely valley and over a beautiful -mountain pass to a village nestled right up in the mountains. Here the -interest had extended to two villages of hardy mountaineers, all of -which had been started by an old woman from Sorai. She cannot read, but -she continually preaches Christ to every one whom she meets. Her son is -the local leader, and his family are all Christians. - -Thus far Mr. Underwood had during our circuit examined one hundred -and fifty people and baptized seventy-five. About half of the other -seventy-five were received as catechumens. At Pung Chun we were greatly -interested to learn that the Koreans have a custom of sprinkling -blood on the door posts, and above the door of the home to drive away -evil spirits. When I told my class at Chang Yun how the Jews did this -before leaving Egypt, and what it meant, they looked at each other and -exclaimed with surprise, “Why, that is our custom, too.” But at Pung -Chun we found that it had only recently been done at the very inn where -we stopped, and were told that it was quite a common custom in that -part of the country. The natives also have a cold rice festival, much -like the feast of unleavened bread. - -The scenery from Chil Pong to Won Tong is very beautiful. The road -winds through the mountains, accompanied by a charming little river -most of the way. There is a wonderful restfulness in the quiet of these -mountains, where no rattle of the world intrudes to break the divine -silences, or to interrupt the voices of nature, which only emphasize -the peacefulness that envelops one. One feels God near and communion -with him easy. The heart lifts itself with no effort in scenes like -these. - -From Won Tong we passed to Sorai or Song Chun, to which reference has -already been often made in these pages. We were lodged in the school -room next the church, a sunny, pleasant apartment. This Sorai school -was already famed through all the country round, and Christians were -sending their boys from other villages to obtain the advantage of -Christian teaching. Next morning early a company of little girls and -boys were waiting outside my door, dressed in new clean garments of the -brightest possible colors (starched, dyed, and pounded to a miraculous -crispness, gloss and glory of tint, chiefly scarlet, green and yellow), -especially for this occasion. We had a singing class with them every -morning after that, and a Bible story was told and explained, too. The -women’s class was held immediately after the children’s, but many women -came to the children’s class, and most of the children came to that -held for the women. In the afternoon the women came again for another -Bible lesson, and in the evening men, women and children met for united -prayer, praise and Bible study with Mr. Underwood. - -I was again taken very sick here at Sorai, but recovered when that -result seemed most unlikely, through God’s answer to the prayers of -our native Christians, one of whom, Mrs. Kim, spent the whole night in -prayer for me. Such love and devotion makes the tie between pastor and -people very strong. - -As soon as I was able to travel we hurried back to Hai Ju and Seoul, -for word had come, bringing the sad news of the death of Mr. Gifford in -one of the country villages about sixty miles from Seoul. He had gone -alone with a Korean helper, and after a brief illness had passed away -suddenly at night, probably scarcely aware that he was seriously ill. -He was loved by all the Koreans, who could not fail to recognize his -spirituality and consecration. Mrs. Gifford was then in an extremely -weak state, having never recovered her strength after a violent attack -of Asiatic dysentery the preceding summer. She had just begun to -improve a little, and we to hope that at last we might look for her -return to perfect health. - -A native messenger, all unannounced, rushed into her presence and told -her that her husband was dead. She never saw his face again, or had -the sad comfort of a message, or one of these little souvenirs which -women prize and console their aching hearts withal. She wilted like a -lily, rudely snapped from the stem. When the first shock was over and -her mind became a little composed, several days later, after friends -had left her for a peaceful soothing night’s rest, a Korean servant -entered the room and told her that her husband had been neglected and -slighted in his last illness, and had died alone quite uncared for. -She never rallied from this blow. Sweet, calm, uncomplaining, she grew -weaker and weaker, and only one month after her beloved husband passed -away her gentle spirit followed. They had been extremely congenial and -well suited, and it seemed a gracious providence that they were so soon -reunited. - -Mrs. Gifford was a woman greatly beloved by every one, and one of -the most effective and consecrated women workers on the field, with -a modest unassuming quiet spirit, but with untiring devotion and -self-effacement. She worked here ten years for Christ. The Koreans, -whom she had loved so well and served so faithfully, bore her to her -grave and laid her beside her husband. We all felt that the loss to the -work was beyond expression, and from a human view point irreparable. - -In the following fall we visited Pyeng Yang for the first time since -our wedding journey in 1889. The annual meeting of all the mission -(now grown quite extensive) for the discussion and settlement of plans -for work for the coming year was to be held there; so we all risked -our lives on a crazy little steamer, which, however, contrary to -probabilities, landed us safely not far from our destination. - -Great were the changes we beheld. Missionaries in comfortable pleasant -homes, a large church (paid for with native money), newly built, -able to accommodate nearly two thousand people, and great gatherings -of simple earnest farmer folk, which it did one’s soul good to see -and hear. To us, who on our last visit looked on that great waste of -heathenism, and discussed the advisability, or otherwise, of starting -a sub-station there, it was almost overwhelming. To us, one of whom at -least had come to the country in the very beginning of the history of -our Protestant missions, and to whom in the light of the records of -work in other fields the task looked so stupendous, so overwhelming, -to find here in the far interior the wonderful evidences of the power -and goodness of God filled our hearts with joy and awe. How could we -ever shrink or doubt, or fear again, or do aught but ascribe “glory and -honor, dominion and power, to him who sits upon the throne and to the -lamb for ever.” - -I regret that I have not personally seen more of the work of God in -northern Whang Hai and in Pyeng Yang provinces, so that I might give -interesting incidents which would put my readers more in touch with the -Christians there, but I copy from the reports of Pyeng Yang and Syen -Chyun stations for the year 1901 and 1902 the following: - -“In the whole territory covered by this station, Pyeng Yang, there are -3,100 baptized adults, 3,737 catechumens enrolled, and over 12,000 who -attend more or less regularly and in various ways come in touch with -the gospel. The total number baptized this year is 642, and the number -of catechumens received 1,363. There are in the Pyeng Yang city church -1,153 members and catechumens, with a congregation of from 1,200 to -1,600 on the Sabbath. - -“There are besides this eight country circuits, including Ool Yul -circuit, in the Seoul station work, and 184 out-stations, with 5,684 -members and catechumens. - -“There are 40 primary schools, one academy and 42 teachers--37 men -and 5 women--with an attendance of 740 pupils. Thirteen schools -were organized this year. All the country schools but one are -self-supporting, and that nearly so. There were 9,094 persons in -attendance at the hospital, also a medical class consisting of 4 -members. - -“Apart from those held in Pyeng Yang, 107 special Bible classes were -held, bringing about 2,300 under instruction; 20 were taught by the -missionaries, 87 by native helpers and leaders. All these classes were -carried on at the expense of the Koreans. - -“There are now 136 chapels, 21 having been built this year, at a cost -of 5,367 nyang contributed by the Christians unaided. - -“The total native contributions for all purposes (excluding the -hospital) amount to 43,949 nyang, about 5,860 yen (or $2,930 United -States gold). - -“The working force to look after and carry on this work consists of -7 ordained missionaries (one on furlough and one newly arrived on the -field), one medical missionary, 4 single lady missionaries and 7 wives -of missionaries. - -“There are also 21 unordained native preachers or helpers, 7 Bible -women and 15 colporters and other assistants doing evangelistic work.” - -From the general report of the Syen Chyun station for 1901-2 I also -quote, “We now have organized groups in 15 of the 21 counties of the -province, and believers in at least 4 more of the other 6. The groups -that have been organized by a missionary’s visit, and organized with a -separate roll and church officers, number 44, but there are at least -8 other places where Christians gather for worship every Sabbath, and -where the helpers visit regularly. - -“The number of persons baptized during the year, July to July, was -267, which is the largest ingathering we have yet been permitted to -see in one year. All of these 267, with the possible exception of 3 or -4 old persons, had been catechumens on probation for at least a year. -The harvest would have been much larger had it been possible to visit -the western Eui Ju Circuit this spring, where a very large number of -candidates are waiting for baptism. - -“The number of infants baptized was 15. The number of catechumens -received amounted to 696. All of these had been believers at least for -two months, and in most cases for a very much longer time, and were -received only after a very careful examination, under which, at the -very lowest estimate, 150 candidates were deferred. During the same -time 5 church members were suspended and 5 excommunicated, and 16 -catechumens dropped. - -“July first, therefore, there were on the church rolls 677 church -members, 25 baptized infants and 1,340 catechumens, or a total of 2,042 -enrolled Christians, who with the unenrolled believers make a total -of 3,429 adherents in all. But of the above church members, 11 are -under suspension, and 8 more, unless they show signs of repentance, -will be disciplined when the missionary next visits their groups. These -19 amount to 2.8 per cent of the church membership. Amongst the 1,340 -catechumens there are 109, or 8.1 per cent, whose names are retained -on the books, although at present they have lost their interest in -Christianity. Experience has taught us that it is well to retain such -for at least three years, unless they have been guilty of some grave -sin whereby the church is brought into disrepute, as many of them -coming under some new influences are often won back to a Christian -life.” - -The above quotations show how the church is growing, and, especially -the Pyeng Yang report, how well they are giving both in labor and money -for the support of the gospel, and for its advancement among their -heathen neighbors. I will also insert a paragraph taken from the above -report for the same year, on the subject of self-support. - -“Just as soon as the native church produces ordained pastors she must -support them. For this the church is being prepared. In this station -but one helper is entirely supported with foreign money, and four or -five receive a part only; all the rest of our unordained preachers or -helpers are entirely supported by the native church. With a single -exception, all of the thirty-five country schools are entirely -supported by the native groups where such schools are carried on. It -has long since been the rule for the native Christians to provide -their own house of worship, the only exception being a few cases where -a little help seemed wise. Every possible means is being employed -to develop the same idea in the academy, thus putting the highest -possible value upon education, creating the sentiment that it is an -acquirement for which the student may well labor or pay. It is being -appreciated, too, so far as it has been acquired at a respectable cost. -Even the hospital is on a fair way to become self-supporting to the -extent of paying for medicines and treatment. - -[Illustration: ELDER SAW OF SORAI AND HIS FAMILY. PAGE 230] - -“In every way the Korean Christians have shown themselves not only -able, even during a famine year, but also willing to bear their share -along the line of support. They have not only borne the running -expenses of the various groups, supported their own country primary -schools, contributed to the academy, paid the salaries of the -unordained preachers, sent representatives to the training classes at -Pyeng Yang, and delegates to the council at Seoul, but have given a -considerable amount to help the poor and contributed liberally to the -Committee of Missions.” - -One more extract from these reports, that of Miss Chase of Syen Chyun, -I feel must not be omitted. It ought to touch the heart of every -Christian woman who reads it. It is as follows: - -“There are 199 baptized and 588 catechumen women, and as a conservative -estimate 1,200 Christian women, in north Pyeng An province. I have been -able to go to the merest fraction of this number. Those whom I have met -are much that we desire to have them be, and much not to be desired, -but as I think of them individually and collectively, every other -thought is eclipsed by the deep impressions they have made upon me by -their yearning to be taught. The need for another for this field speaks -for itself. We request the mission to consider the urgent need. In some -places there has been manifest murmuring among the people. They say -they have waited long for a visit from their pastor, they have waited -long to receive the examination for the catechumenate, they have waited -long for a woman to teach them. Every time that women come in from -distant places they beseech me to promise to visit their groups the -next time I leave Syen Chyun. - -“Many a woman who has attended my classes has said with tear-stained -face, ‘As for believing, I believe. I am clinging to Christ for -salvation. I have no desire for any trust but in him, but I am so -ignorant. I know so little about my Bible. I know not how to read its -thoughts with my dark mind. I know so little about the great Jesus -doctrine. How can God be pleased to call me his child, when I know -not how to glorify him?’ They say the men stand out far on the other -side of the curtain[4] and teach great and wonderful things which they -cannot comprehend, but a woman can sit in their midst and listen to all -of their unlearned questions, and they are not ashamed to let a patient -woman see how little they know! It is not easy to hear these heart-felt -burdens and be helpless to meet their need in any adequate manner.” - -[4] Churches are divided by a curtain down the center, with men on one -side and women on the other. The preacher can see both sides. - - - - -CHAPTER XV - - Another Itineration--Christians in Eul Yul--A Ride in an - Ox-Cart--Keeping the Cow in the Kitchen--Ox-Carts and - Mountain Roads--The Island of White Wing--A Midnight - Meeting--Thanksgiving Day in Sorai--The Circular Orders--New - Testament Finished--All in the Day’s Work--The Korean - Noble--Meetings of the Nobility. - - -We left Pyeng Yang about the 26th of September, 1900, by one of the toy -Japanese steamers, and reached Chinampo, a half-Japanese, half-Korean -port, at night. We were accompanied by three young ladies, one of whom, -a new arrival, wished to study methods; one who needed the bracing -effect of out-of-door country life in the north for a few weeks; and -one who had previously arranged with me to carry on a women’s training -class in Eul Yul that fall. We were obliged to spend the night in -Chinampo, but arriving late, we did not know where to find an inn, till -we met an old friend, Rev. Mr. Smart, of the Church of England mission, -who kindly found us a Japanese hotel. Here, after telling them our -nationality, our ages, our condition, past lives and future intentions, -and having been forced in spite of all protests to remove our shoes, -they condescended to receive us as guests, at an outrageous price. We -must not use our own camp beds, but the mats which had served no one -knew whom before us; nor might we have water in our rooms, but must -perform all our ablutions in the public hall on the lower floor. - -Next morning we gladly bade our too particular hosts farewell, and -crossed the river in a wretched old junk, which looked as if it -were on the brink of dissolution. Fortunately, the weather was fine -and mild, and the river calm, else I am sure we should all have been -dipped, for even I had never yet beheld so dilapidated a craft. We were -all day on the river, only able to land after dark, thanks partly to -the nature of our vessel and partly to the tides, for which we were -forced to wait before landing. - -The following night was hot, the inns nothing more or less than ovens, -and morning found us all in an unusually wilted condition, and to add -to the general misery, the young ladies of our party had made important -additions to their luggage, which threw us all four into the utmost -consternation. That evening we reached Eul Yul, where both men’s and -women’s classes were to be held. As usual the people crowded in to meet -us as soon as we arrived. Although harvesting was on and it was one of -the busiest times of the year, quite a number of women came to study -with us. They were so bright and receptive, it was a pleasure to teach -them. I had some very interesting visits with the women in their own -homes, and was edified to see the bright and practical way in which the -Christian who accompanied us talked with some of the unbelievers. One -woman was hesitating, fearing she was too ignorant or too wicked to -receive salvation, to which our native friend said, “Why, if you are -hungry, and a bowl of rice is set before you, you eat right then, and -just so if you want salvation, you have only to take and eat.” - -The listener’s eyes filled with tears, it seemed too good. All the -time we were talking, another Christian woman sat with bowed head -asking God’s blessing on the word. In the examination of applicants for -baptism, I was much interested to see how carefully our native leaders -questioned them. “You say you sin daily, but ask God to forgive, and -so have a happy and calm mind. Is it then no matter that you sin?” -Again, to a woman who said her past sins were forgiven, and her present -sins were confessed every day, he said, “Well, then, what sin have you -committed to-day?” She could or would only speak in a general way, and -after various questions, mentioned nothing in particular. “But,” said -Kim, “is that honoring God, to go and confess you have sinned, and -ask him to forgive you know not what?” On Sunday twenty people were -baptized. During the communion service all eyes were streaming, and -some sobbed like children at the thought of what the Lord had suffered -for them. - -In the afternoon our native elder, Mr. Saw, gave us a delightful -illustrated Bible lesson on the Christian armor, with illustrations -drawn and colored by himself, and with most appropriate references. -The native Christian was first represented in ordinary dress all -unarmed, and in succeeding pictures, one after another of the needed -articles, helmet, shield, sandals, breastplate and sword were added. -These illustrations were unique to the last degree and extremely well -drawn. In the evening an experience meeting was held, when one after -another told what the Lord had done for them. Some had been the slaves -of drink, and had fallen again and again after repeated attempts to -resist, in their own strength, but now for years had been free men in -Christ, and were looked upon as miracles of grace by their friends and -neighbors. - -One man told something of his home life. He had been a dissolute -gambling fellow, whose reputation was well known through all the -surrounding counties. When he went home at night, after days of absence -and dissipation, his angry wife would scold and reproach him, and he -in return would beat and maltreat the poor little woman. “It was all -misery and discomfort, but now, all peace and love.” A neighbor who -came in often remarked on this exceptionally happy home life, wishing -hopelessly for something like it in her lot. She could not believe the -happy wife when she told her it had once been so different, and that -all this came through Jesus. - -Then Mrs. Kim called in her husband and bade him tell if this was -true. “Why,” said he, “I’ll do more, I’ll give my bond for it, bring -paper and pen and I’ll write a bond to any amount you choose to name, -that if Jesus comes into your home there’ll be peace there.” “Why,” -said he, “people say if the Lord were only here now to do some of his -miracles every one would believe, but I tell you the Lord is doing -greater miracles now than he ever did on earth when he takes a vile -wretch like me and changes his heart.” One man had been afflicted with -an apparently incurable disease for over forty years, and now the Lord -had healed him; and one had been such a liar that no one believed his -honest statements, and yet now was implicitly trusted by every one. - -It was decided before we left Eul Yul that the native Christians of -that district should employ two helpers or evangelists to work among -the ignorant believers of that vicinity, and that twelve Bible or -training classes should be held in the different districts in that -province during the year, six to be in charge of Mr. Saw, and six -taught by Mr. Kim Yun Oh, our most intelligent leader. From Eul Yul we -went to Pung Chun, while Mr. Underwood visited several smaller places -more difficult of access. Miss Chase and I divided the meetings, and -were most thoughtfully and attentively heard, the little room being -packed whenever we announced a service. - -Our quarters were not of the best, as the only place assigned us for -preparing our food was a little corner of the cow’s stable. We have -heard of people who “keep the pig in the kitchen,” but to keep the cow -there was certainly a degree worse than our flightiest fancy, and we -at length rebelled, with the result that a more sanitary place was -found for our culinary performances. - -After Mr. Underwood arrived, eleven people were baptized here. The -first public service for all was held in a hired room in the largest -inn in the place. The chief man, after listening to all that had been -said, arose and spoke to the crowd as follows: “We all know that what -we have heard is true, there is nothing left for us to say but that -from to-day on we will believe.” Some of the men who attended this -meeting remained outside the door at first, unwilling to be seen in -such company, as they were respectable gentlemen. After listening -awhile they condescended to step inside, and before the service was -over they had seated themselves in the front row, and admitted it was -very good. - -Aside from our kitchen arrangements, and a little anxiety lest the cow -should conclude to visit us in our bedroom at night, and the persistent -cock crowing at my head from two in the morning, we had a lovely time -at Pung Chun. - -Again at one of the little villages up in the mountains some of our -chair coolies deserted us, and there was nothing left for it but for -our two young ladies to ride in an ox-cart. They were a little doubtful -about this new mode of procedure, but the Koreans assured us it was -quite safe, and as our little son had traveled miles that way, we -encouraged them to try it, especially as it was a last resort. So with -many misgivings they perched themselves on top of the loads, and the -ox, a great spirited animal, was brought up. When Miss Chase asked if -he was to be trusted, they assured her with the statement that he could -fight any ox in the country. It was supposed a good deal of harnessing -would follow, but when a noose was merely slipped over a hook, and -with no warning the steed literally galloped off, we were all somewhat -startled, and the young ladies gave themselves up, with such a team -running away. - -The ox-cart is extremely primitive, its two wheels have only the -clumsiest attempt at heavy wooden tires. The soft mud roads are full of -deep ruts, so that under the most favorable circumstances the bumping -and jolting are unspeakable. When therefore their mettlesome animal was -at length of a mind to pause a little in his mad career, they lost no -time in the order of their descent from that vehicle, and started off -at a brisk pace, evidently decided to walk all the way back to Seoul -rather than jeopardize their lives in such a contrivance and behind -such a creature again. However, the way was long, and before night -they changed their minds and resigned themselves to the ox-cart, when -his bovine spirits were a little subdued by his journey, and he was -somewhat less light and frisky than in the morning. - -We arrived at Chil Pong, one of the villages perched up in the -mountains, early in the evening, but not so our loads, which the -country people manage in some miraculous way to drag up the steep -mountain roads on the ox-carts. - -It turned out that the ox-cart in use that day was a very weak one and -gave out entirely, breaking down half way up the mountain. Another -had to be brought from a distance, and long delays ensued, where the -average speed is a snail’s pace, in spite of the experience with the -lively animal the day before. Fortunately by this time we had obtained -more coolies for the young ladies, so that our party were all together; -the little son having become such a walker that he seldom patronized -either chair or cart, and often walked twenty miles a day. One of the -helpers, Mr. Shin, said, as he came up with the loads, supperless -and quite tired out, at twelve o’clock that night, that had it not been -that he was determined the pastor’s wife must not go without her bed -and pillows, the cart would not have arrived at all. So tenderly do the -people care for the needs of their teachers. - -[Illustration: MRS. KIM OF SORAI AND HER FAMILY. PAGE 244] - -We found the mountains more beautiful, if possible, than ever. It -was October, and hills that in the previous spring were rosy with -rhododendrons and peach blossoms, were now scarlet, gold and purple -with the magnificence of autumn foliage, asters and golden-rod. There -was displayed on all sides some of the most brilliant coloring I ever -saw. There were quantities of bitter-sweet wreathing all over trees and -rocks, berries of many varieties, and bushes reminding me of that which -Moses saw in Horeb, burning but not consumed. And though in a different -way, still I too felt that the ground was holy with the unseen but felt -presence, and that it would be well to remove one’s worldly shoes, -which figuratively I did. - -A few days later we crossed a mountain pass at over two thousand feet -elevation, where we found the scenery more and more beautiful and -wild. The gallant and unwearied “Captain” almost carried the rheumatic -partner of his travels up the last steep ascent. The alternative was to -sit in a chair and trust one’s self to a couple of tired coolies, who -might stumble and dash one to atoms; or with chipangi (alpenstock) in -hand, slowly drag one’s self up and then down over the rocks and steep -slippery road. Arriving at the foot on the other side, we were once -again in dear Sorai, where a good hot floor soon took out all the pain -and weariness. - -It had been decided that from Sorai we were to visit a certain island -called Pang Yeng, or “_White Wing_,” where quite a number of people -were believing through the teaching of some of the natives. The story -is worth telling. A man, who had been banished to this island for a -political offense, had received a Christian book from his nephew, a -Methodist, just before his departure. The young man told his uncle that -this religion was the basis of all civil liberty and civilization, -so that the banished man in his loneliness proceeded to read it, and -to publish and teach its doctrines among the islanders. He had been -informed that on the opposite shore at Sorai lived people who could -further explain the book and its doctrines, so one of the natives, the -oldest and most honorable in the village, made a trip to Sorai, and -begged Elder Saw to return with him and teach them. - -They were lamentably ignorant, and while believing in Jesus were still -carrying on heathen worship; they were as blind people only partly -restored, who saw men as trees walking. Saw was not able to go at -once, but after some time, when he visited them, he found the whole -village assembled with all preparations made for offering their heathen -sacrifices. He talked to them very earnestly and faithfully, and they -then at once gave up all their idolatrous worship, and in a body -promised only to serve the one true God. - -The elder could not, however, remain long, and several months later, -when Mrs. Kim, the indefatigable voluntary evangelist, visited -them, she found that many of them seemed to have fallen back almost -completely into old practices and beliefs. At first no one would -receive her in their homes, but she talked to the women outside the -houses so sweetly and winningly, that they at length invited her in, -and gathered around her to listen. A great change was wrought through -her teaching. - -We made the trip in a little Korean sailing junk, which was rather -small and uncomfortable for bad weather, but not at all out of the way -on such a day as that on which we started, with blue sky above, blue -and sparkling water below, and charming islands studding the sea like -jewels. - -We found that White Wing measured about twenty miles round the coast -line and was nine miles long, with a capital and several hamlets. It -is extremely beautiful and fertile, well fortified by bold picturesque -cliffs along the coast, with delightful valleys and gently rolling -country snugly nestled behind them. The people are all farmers, living -in the simplest and most primitive way. Money is rarely seen, there is -indeed no need for it, with no fairs or stores. Their wants are few, -they raise what they need for food, clothing, warmth and light on their -little farms, bartering among each other to supply such simple articles -as their own labor has not provided. - -All appeared to have plenty of rice and firewood, and to be quite -content. Drunkenness and dishonesty are almost unknown. The magistrate -told us they rarely needed even the slightest punishment, but were as -they seemed to us, a gentle, kindly, simple, honest farmer and fisher -folk. - -We found a small church built on the hillside, and a little company of -believers, who were waiting for examination and baptism. Although very -ignorant, they were most anxious to be taught, and Mrs. Kim, who had -gone with me from Sorai, and I were kept busy instructing the women. -Like the women everywhere in Korea, they especially enjoyed the hymns, -and were most eager to learn them. The words were comparatively easy, -but the tunes were quite another matter. We realized the advantage -in their learning them, both as a means of fixing divine truth and -publishing it to others. - -We were to leave very early in the morning to catch the tide, and the -night before we had a farewell service in the little church. When this -was over, and good-byes said, I went to the tiny room to pack our -belongings, and Mr. Underwood to one of the Christian houses to give -last directions and counsel with the leaders. About ten o’clock Mrs. -Kim came to my door with one of the women, asking very humbly if I -would go to one of their homes and teach them a little more this one -last time, though it was late. “We are so ignorant and have none to -guide and teach us,” said they pathetically. Of course I was delighted -to go, and followed them to a farmer’s thatched cottage. It was one of -the poorest and rudest of the native homes; in one corner a farm hand -was lying asleep, in another a tiny wick burning in a saucer of oil -was the only light in the room. We sat down under this, and the poor, -rough, hard-working women clustered round us as closely as possible. -Their faces and hands bore the marks of care, toil, hard lives and few -joys, but they were lighted with a glorious hope which transformed -them, and this with the awakening desire for knowledge had banished the -look of wooden stolidity, which so many Korean women wear. - -While we talked of our Lord and his teachings and conned again and -again the hymns, a cough was heard at the door, and it was found that -a number of “the brethren” were standing out there in the cold, frosty -air of the November night, listening to such scraps of good words as -they could catch. So when one of the women asked if they might come in, -although generally out of regard for Korean custom and prejudice, I not -only teach no men, but keep as much out of sight as possible, there -were on this occasion no two ways about it, they must come, and in they -thronged. It was a picture which I shall never forget, the dark eager -faces, every one leaning forward in eager attitude, all seeking more -knowledge of divine truth, hungering and thirsting after righteousness. -A little dim humble room, and only such a poor feeble wick to light -them all. Such a poor feeble wick was I, and all were looking to me for -God’s light. “Feed my lambs,” was his last command, and yet in many a -hut and hamlet his hungry little ones are starving. - -Next morning at the first streak of dawn they again came, and with -tears streaming down their faces, begged me to come soon again. “Oh, we -are so ignorant, and so weak, how can we escape the snares of Satan, -with no one here to lead and teach us!” they exclaimed. - -Our return trip was very different from our first crossing. A severe -storm of wind and rain came up, the little ship was tossed about on -the waves like a plaything, and Mrs. Kim and I were miserably sick, -not to mention being drenched with rain. It was impossible to make our -port, and we were obliged to attempt the nearest coast, which offered -no shelter from the wind, in addition to which, the tide being out, -our boat was bumped about mercilessly on the rocks and stones with no -chance of a landing for some hours. - -However, all things come to an end sometime, and we at length effected -a safe landing, and were soon dried, warmed and fed in a fishing -village at hand, and reached Sorai next day. Before we left Sorai, the -Christians held their annual Thanksgiving service. The church being too -small to hold all the people, a tent was spread outside. After thanking -God for their bountiful harvests and growing prosperity, they offered -thanks for the spiritual harvest he had given. - -During the year over two hundred and fifty people of the neighboring -villages had been baptized through the missions and labors of this -one little church, not counting a much larger number of catechumens -received. They had enlarged and repaired their church and school rooms, -built a house for their school teacher, one for their evangelist and -another for the entertainment of strangers, who come from a distance to -the Sabbath services. - -They are an open-handed people, and when they read of the famine in -India they took up a collection, amounting to fifty yen. As their daily -wage rarely amounts to more than ten cents gold, and as the community -is small, this was a large gift. Several of the women who had no money -put their heavy silver rings in the plate. These rings are in many -cases their only ornaments, and are most highly prized, so that when -they were given, we knew that our people were giving till they felt it -deeply. - -In the famine so severe in many counties last year, Sorai, which was -more blessed, helped many of its sister communities. On our return to -Hai Ju we had some interesting visits with the women both in their own -homes and at our rooms. We were allowed to help prepare the “dock,” -or bread, which we found them making in one of the houses, for a -prospective wedding. They were having a “bee,” a number of friends -had come in to help, and they seemed much amused and pleased when we -asked to be allowed to assist. We were very clumsy and awkward, but we -gained our end by making them feel we were one with them. Later we were -invited to the wedding, and forced to swallow an amount of indigestible -food, which at other times we should consider as simply suicidal. But -when it is a duty, one simply shuts one’s eyes to consequences, takes -all risks, and comes through with an immunity which I verily believe is -miraculous. - -One old woman, who attended the meetings very regularly and was very -devout, is quite a character. With a loud strong voice, but not the -remotest glimmering of a notion of harmony, time or tune, she shouts -away several lines and bars before or behind the rest, no consequence -which, and quite often, if the hymn chosen is not in her book or -according to her mind, she chooses another and proceeds as zealously -as ever. When gently remonstrated with, she replies, “_Oh, that is no -matter, I’m not following you, I’m singing (?) by myself._” - -We had only been in Hai Ju a few days when a fleet-footed messenger -from Eul Yul arrived with a letter containing the news that a secret -royal edict was being sent round to the various magistracies in that -province, commanding all Confucianists to gather at night on the second -of the next month (about fifteen days later), each at his nearest -worshiping place in his district, and from thence to go in a body and -kill all Westerners and followers of Western doctrine, and destroy -their houses, churches and schools. A friend in the magistrate’s -office, holding some petty position, happened to be present when this -arrived, noted the excitement and agitation which the official evinced -on reading it and the care with which it was guarded, and determined to -learn its contents. He contrived an opportunity to read it unseen, and -as some of his near relatives were Christians, he at once communicated -the terrible news to them. One of the same family, a young man who was -a fleet-footed runner, was instantly sent to us with a copy of the -edict. - -No words can express our state of mind on receiving the news. Thought -flew back to one peaceful little community after another, which we -had so lately visited, all rejoicing in the beautiful new life, all -growing up toward Christ, like flowers reaching up to the sun, with the -light of a glad hope in their faces, happy, harmless, kindly people, -the aged, the little toddling children, helpless women, unsuspecting -farmers, all consigned to utter destruction. As for ourselves, we were -in one of the worst of Korean cities, it was impossible to make the -slightest movement without attracting the notice of every one, for we -were constantly the center of the observation of the whole town. It -would be impossible to make our escape if any one wished to detain us. -To make matters much worse, we had two young ladies and a child in our -party. Probably little danger threatened us personally, as the governor -was friendly, but our first duty was to send word to the American -minister in Seoul, and it must be done quickly. To send a dispatch in -any Eastern or European language would be futile, as, if suspicion was -aroused, there were means of interpreting any of them. We at length -concluded to send a Latin message, not to our minister, but to one -of our mission, as less likely to attract attention either in Hai Ju -or Seoul. This was done, and the message was at once carried to the -American legation. - -The news was at first received with incredulity, so friendly had the -attitude of the government always been, but when it was remembered -that recent Boxer disturbances in China might have suggested a similar -course here, and that there were strong Buddhists high in influence -at the palace who might have caused this strange measure, and when -at the Foreign Office, through admissions and contradictions, it was -made evident that the circulation of such an edict was not unknown to -them, all doubt was over. Not long after it developed that from similar -sources (that is, friends of Christians or of missionaries) the news -had been carried to missionaries in Kang Wha and in Pyeng Yang. That -it was unadvisedly done, and speedily repented, was proved by the fact -that a few days later another edict rescinding the first was sent -everywhere. Nevertheless and notwithstanding, I breathed freely and -slept well for the first time since hearing the bad news, when I found -myself on the little Japanese steamer well started on my way back to -Seoul. The supposed authors of the order were put under arrest, and I -believe punished, the Korean officials vigorously protesting that it -was all a mistake and sent without the knowledge of the king or the -government. - -These trips to Whang Hai province usually occupied six or eight weeks -of our time, and full of delightful incidents and experiences as they -always were, did not represent more than a fraction of the work. In -the fall of 1900 the whole New Testament was given to the people. To -celebrate this event a large meeting was held in the Methodist church, -the largest audience hall in Seoul, composed of as many natives and -Christians as could be packed within its walls. A suitable thanksgiving -service was held, and the board of translators and their native -literary helpers were presented by the American minister with copies of -the book, with very kind remarks on their work. The board now consisted -of Rev. H. G. Appenzeller, Dr. Scranton, Rev. W. D. Reynolds, Rev. -James S. Gale and Mr. Underwood. - -In addition to the editorship of a weekly religious newspaper, Bible -translation, preparation of tracts and hymns, city training classes, -weekly religious services and meetings, supervision of schools and -language class for missionaries, Mr. Underwood felt that a special -effort ought to be made for the nobility and gentry, the hardest people -in the country to reach with the gospel. This is the case, partly -because officials who would retain office must go at regular intervals -and offer certain prayers and sacrifices at royal shrines, partly that -the ideas of caste are so strong that the nobility are unwilling to -seat themselves on the floor in our churches among farmers, peddlers, -coolies, merchants or even scholars, to listen to the gospel; and in -addition, that their family life is grounded and interwoven on and in -the concubine system. All of them have two or more families, some of -them many. These numerous wives, their parents and progeny would make -life intolerable should the husband put them aside. His friends and -relatives would look upon him as too evil to live should he neglect -to worship the ancestral tablets, and the spirits of his ancestors -themselves would follow him like harpies, with all sorts of misfortunes -and diseases. - -Each man, too, looks forward with great complacency to being honored -in his time as he has honored his dead parents, and seems to be -overwhelmed with something like terror at the idea of having no one -to worship his memory and offer sacrifices before his tablets, so -that childless men usually adopt sons to keep their memory green. The -ladies of this class, the first wives, are, as I think I have said -before, very closely secluded, and are never seen except in their own -apartments or the anpang of their kin, whither they are carried in -closely covered chairs. - -In such a state of affairs it is not strange that men should hesitate -to listen to the doctrines of a religion which would turn their whole -social world upside down, wreck their homes, cast upon them the -blackest stigma, turn them outside the pale of court and official life, -rob them of their income, and rank them with the common people. Knowing -that it was almost impossible to induce them to attend church, an -invitation was therefore issued, asking a large number of them to come -to our house to talk over religious matters. To our surprise the call -was most heartily responded to, and two large rooms were crowded with -high Korean gentlemen, all of whom came no doubt from politeness or -curiosity. - -There were princes, generals, members of the cabinet, all men of the -highest rank and birth. All listened with the closest attention, many -of them asking thoughtful questions, which showed their real interest -in what was said by the missionaries who came to assist Mr. Underwood -in receiving and talking with them. Some asked for books, and many came -repeatedly to talk over these matters in private. Meetings were held -regularly Sunday afternoons, and a stereopticon exhibition was given, -showing a series of scenes from the life of Christ. - -One result of these meetings was that Mr. Underwood was approached with -the suggestion that he should establish a Presbyterian state church. We -were told that a large number of officials would prefer (if they were -to be forced into giving up their own religion and joining a foreign -church, as at that time seemed likely) to make it one of their own -choosing, and connected with Americans rather than Russians. They were, -of course, informed that we could not organize churches in that way, -nor baptize men for state and political purposes. The suggestion was -not official, but if we had been willing to use opportunities of this -sort, the roll-call among the high class of nominal members might have -been greatly swelled. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - - Furloughs--Chong Dong Church--Romanists in Whang - Hai--Missionaries to the Rescue--Romanists Annoy and Hinder - the Judge--Results--Interview between Governor and Priest--The - Inspector’s Report--Women’s Work in Hai Ju--Deaths of Mr. and - Mrs. Johnson and Mrs. Miller. - - -In 1901 we took another furlough, during which we were brought in touch -with American Christians in nearly every large city in the country, and -thus were able to make the church aware of God’s wonderful dealings -in Korea and to enlighten the public on the needs of this country. On -our return, we missed among the faces of dear old friends who came -to welcome us that of our work-fellow and beloved brother, Rev. H. -G. Appenzeller. Mr. Appenzeller, the first evangelistic worker of -his mission, had labored with my husband, heart and hand, for over -sixteen years, and they had taken their earliest itinerations to the -country in company. The loss fell heavily upon both native and foreign -community, and seems to grow, as we feel the need of the enthusiastic -and ready service everywhere. On our return our first attention was -given to our dear Chong Dong (city) church, the members of which have -from the first been marked as energetic, generous and full of faith. -With a membership, as has been said, of two hundred and nineteen, -they carry on five missions near the city, within a radius of five -miles. These are places where chapels have been built--but they have -also several other missions in districts where services are held in -private dwellings. The church members conduct and take charge of all -these services. They have contributed during the past year (1902-1903), -reckoned in gold dollars: - - For their school $75.80 - Church running expenses 75.40 - Evangelistic work 45.82 - Charity 20.66 - Gifts of City Mission Society 50.50 - ------- - Total $268.18 - -This total, however, is not a complete report, not including the gifts -of the largest mission, that of Chandari, a (from a Korean standpoint) -prosperous little farming community outside the city. For the women and -girls, beside Sabbath services and regular prayer meetings, six weekly -Bible classes are held in different neighborhoods, all but two of which -are well attended. There are a number of these women well fitted for -Christian teaching, and one or another of them has repeatedly gone -off on a six-weeks’ trip, with some of the lady missionaries, asking -nothing more than her bare expenses. They often go away on evangelistic -trips quite at their own instance, visiting village after village, -distributing tracts which they themselves have bought for the purpose, -and teaching the country women who cannot read. - -Very soon after our return to Korea my husband was requested by the -American minister and the members of our mission to visit Hai Ju, in -the province of Whang Hai, on a mission of very serious importance. We -were sent to Hai Ju in February, and since the preceding September, -it had come to be a matter of common report that the native Romanists -(of whom there are said to be twenty thousand in that province) -had, under the lead of the French priests, been robbing, torturing -and blackmailing the poor people of the province “for money to build -churches,” resisting with arms, maiming, beating and even imprisoning -officers of the law sent to stop them, and establishing a veritable -reign of terror through the whole district; so that the weaker -magistrates dared not lift a finger against any criminal favored by the -priests, or belonging to that church, and fairly trembled for fear of -them, obeying with the alertness of terror their slightest behest. - -The state of affairs grew so bad at length that the governor sent a -manifesto to Seoul, saying he could no longer carry on the government -of the province in such a state of insurrection and anarchy. The -following is a translation, made for the Korea _Review_, of the -official copy of a part of the governor’s complaint: - -“In the counties of Sin-ch’un, Cha-ryung, An-ak, Chang-yun, Pong-san, -Whang-ju, and Su-heung, disturbances created by the Roman Catholics are -many in number, and petitions and complaints are coming in from all -quarters. - -“In some cases it is a question of building churches and collecting -funds from the villages about. If any refuse to pay, they are bound -and beaten and rendered helpless. When certain ones, in answer to -petition, have been ordered arrested, the police have been mobbed -and the officers of the law have been unable to resist it. While -investigating a case on behalf of the people, I sent police to arrest -Catholics in Cha-ryung. They raised a band of followers, beat off the -police, arrested them, and dismissed them with orders not to return. -Then I sent a secretary to remonstrate with them. At that the Sin-ch’un -Catholics, a score or more of them, armed with guns, arrested the -secretary, insulted him, etc.” - -One of the priests, who is apparently most influential and has been -most notorious, whose Korean name is Hong, and who is known among -foreigners as Father Wilhelm, told my husband that the native Romanists -were not to be blamed for all this, for they had only obeyed his -orders. Mr. Underwood had had a slight acquaintance with this priest -for some years, meeting him occasionally and knowing little of his -life, but supposing he was doing an earnest if mistaken work of -self-sacrifice, he was unable to believe that the priest was cognizant -of all that was being done by his followers, until he had both written -and had a personal interview with him, when he was sorrowfully forced -to see that rumor had not misrepresented his conduct. - -This sad condition of things might have gone on, no one knows how -long, but some of the people so robbed and tortured were Presbyterian -Christians, and there is something about Protestant Christianity that -resists oppression and favors a growth of sturdy independence and a -love of freedom and fair play. One of these men was a particularly -determined fellow who had been persistently seeking justice ever -since, and would not be discouraged or daunted. He first went to the -missionaries, who told him to take the matter to the Korean courts, but -as the provincial courts were quite helpless against such a giant evil, -he went up to the capital. The officials at the capital, probably in -awe of the French, dared not interfere. He and his companion, another -sturdy farmer like himself, went from one missionary to another in -Seoul, all of whom put them off, disliking to take up native quarrels, -and on principle opposed to using influence with Korean officials, and -none of them realizing to what threatening dimensions the affair had -grown. - -These poor men were not eloquent, they could only tell a plain, simple -story, but they knew that they and thousands of others were deeply -wronged and were able to do one thing well, namely, to persist. Persist -they did with unwearied resolution. - -Failing to obtain any help or satisfaction, they at length decided to -go directly to the French legation and seek justice and relief there. -They were received, attentively heard, carefully questioned, given -a promise of redress, and sent politely away. They waited long and -patiently, but no redress came, nor any sign of it. Again and again -they sought the fulfilment of the promises of the representative of -France, only to be put off repeatedly with fair words and indefinite -assurances. - -So at length they published their whole story in the leading Korean -newspaper in Seoul. Then the French minister did indeed begin to act. -He immediately requested the Korean Foreign Office to have the men -beaten and imprisoned, _on the ground that conduct like theirs had -caused the Boxer trouble in China_. - -When affairs came to this crisis, the Protestant missionaries awoke to -the situation. Rev. Mr. Gale and Mr. Underwood went to the office of -Foreign Affairs and pled for the men, and also laid the matter before -the American minister, Dr. Allen. He gave it his careful attention and -succeeded in having a commission appointed by the Korean government -to go to Hai Ju and investigate the charges. Dr. Moffett, of Pyeng -Yang, and Mr. Underwood were also requested to be present and attend -the trials. From the beginning to the end of this attempt to bring the -truth to light, the French priests by every art in their power tried to -block and delay the proceedings of the judge, to annoy and overawe him -in Hai Ju, and (we were informed) by letters, special messengers and -telegrams, to limit his power, hinder his plans, and undermine him in -Seoul. - -[Illustration: CARRIERS WITH JIKAYS. PAGE 184] - -[Illustration: WOMAN WITH BUNDLE OF WASHING ON HER HEAD. PAGE 246] - -He was a sturdy, clear-headed, determined man, who had had long -intercourse with Europeans in his post in the Foreign Office, and held -his own with much self-possession and _sang-froid_. It was said of him -that he carried on the trials more fairly and more in accordance with -equity than had ever been seen before in Korea. - -The priests arrested and tortured a policeman who had been sent to -bring some of the accused to the court, hanging him by his wrists. They -used all the influence they possessed in Seoul, through the French, to -force the Korean government to order the commission to yield to their -demands for the release of prisoners already in the hands of the law, -and for the remittance of punishment as they should dictate. - -They induced the commissioner to promise that he would not try to -arrest any one for a week, on the solemn assurance that they would -themselves bring all the accused to court, and then, although they had -two of the most notorious malefactors in their house for several days -before the week expired, they allowed them to escape. - -They forced themselves into the commissioner’s presence and with bluff -and reiterated demands wearied him into sending his resignation to -Seoul, which, however, the king refused to accept. - -“Father Wilhelm’s” church is in a valley about ten miles from Hai Ju, -entirely surrounded by high hills. The entrance to the valley at that -time was guarded by sentinels, and the points of vantage on the hill -tops were occupied in the same way. When any one is seen approaching, a -signal is given, and the people (for the village is full of fugitives -from justice) flee into the church, which it will be seen serves the -triple purpose of a court with torture chamber, a citadel, and a place -of worship. - -When police were sent there with warrants of arrest for some of the -worst miscreants, Father Wilhelm met them at the door with a revolver, -demanding what they wanted. When told, he requested to see the -warrants, denied that any such persons were there, would not allow them -to enter, nor would he return the warrants, but with threats bade them -begone. On more than one occasion posses of armed men were sent by him -to rescue criminals who had been seized. - -The cruelest forms of torture, such as are used only by Korean -officials in cases of murder and treason, were used by the priests -in their churches to force poor peasants to give over their money or -the deeds of their houses and farms. Mr. Underwood and Dr. Moffett -spent some weeks in Hai Ju, carefully studying these matters and in -close attendance at the trials. In addition to the above facts they -discovered that this was not a persecution waged upon Protestants by -Catholics, but a system of blackmail laid on the whole community, and -that the number of complaints brought in by non-Christian natives were, -compared to those from Christians, as twenty to one. Again, that the -French priests were (in the present instance, at least) demanding, -as in China, a right to sit with a judge in a court of justice and -modify sentences. We learned further that the people were tormented -to the verge of insurrection, and had planned to rise on a certain -day, when the news that a commission had been appointed, and that the -missionaries had come down to see fair play at the investigations, -calmed and decided them to await further developments. - -The results of the trials were very unsatisfactory. With the small -force of men at his command, with the priests foiling every effort -to make arrests, few men were apprehended. Those who were brought to -trial, by their own admissions and self-contradictions, and by the -consistent and overwhelming testimony of many witnesses, were all -proved guilty of the charges laid against them. The priests, and by -far the majority of the miscreants, including the ringleaders, who -could not be caught, went scot free. The commissioner made a report to -the Korean government, asking for the deportation of the two priests, -Wilhelm and Le Gac, which the Korean government did not ask, but -which it would have been thought should hardly have been necessary. -Were not the Koreans long suffering to a remarkable degree, as well -as a feeble power, they would long since have risen and cast out all -foreigners from their desecrated shores. In the light of what we have -seen and heard here, the cause of the Boxer troubles in China is not -far to seek. Thus is national sentiment aroused against us; for long -persistence in conduct similar to this was foreign blood spilled like -water there, and for such reasons are the gates of Thibet barred to the -gospel. - -The following official report of the interview between the priest and -the governor of Whang Hai province, in the presence of the inspector -sent by the king, will show what a state of affairs existed. - -“Translation of the official report of the interview held between the -governor of Whang Hai Do and Father Wilhelm, in the presence of the -Inspector Yi Eung Ik. Eighth day 2d Moon Koang Mu. - -“In the seventh year of Quang Mo in the second moon and eighth day, the -governor of Whang Hai Do, Yi Yung Chick, and the French teacher, Hong -Sok Ku (Mons. Wilhelm), conferred. Hong Sok Ku said, ‘The controversy -between the governor and myself arose from the governor’s not appeasing -my wrath by arresting Mr. Pak Chang Mou of Whang Ju, and punishing him. -This Pak, at night after dark, had thrown stones at the church of Han -Sinpu (a native Korean priest), and I therefore had spoken to the local -magistrate of Whang Ju and asked to have him arrested and imprisoned, -but Pak, through his local influence, had returned undisturbed to his -home, and as there seemed no other means of having him punished, I -wrote a letter to the governor, asking that he would have Pak brought -up to the provincial town of Hai Ju and severely punished. The governor -replied _that he could not have the people of local magistracies -brought up to Hai Ju_, and I therefore supposed that the governor had -no power to arrest the people of outside local magistracies, and when -I learned to my surprise that there was an order for the arrest of -some of the Christians (Romanist) of Shinampo by the governor, feeling -sure that it was a false order, I released by force all those whom the -police were arresting, and at once ordered all my Christians, if any -one came out to arrest them again, to resist it utterly.’” - -The governor replied: “As for the business of Pak of Whang Ju, since -he had been already arrested and imprisoned in Whang Ju, and there was -therefore no reason why he should be brought up to Hai Ju, I did not -do so as you had asked, and as for my reply in my former letter, that -I could not arrest him, it was in accordance with the _Chibang Cheido_ -(Book of Laws) in regard to local and provincial jurisdiction, and the -reason why, _after my people have appealed_, I can order them arrested -to try the case, is in accordance with the _Chaipan Chang Chung_, or -book of rules for courts of justice, and if you had any doubts about -the earlier or later affair, while it would not have been out of the -way to have asked a question, is it right with your followers to gather -a crowd and organize a band to arrest and carry off policemen, to -release and set free those who have broken the laws, and to order your -followers to resist authority, so making your people fall into sin, -and making it impossible for the appointed authorities to administer -justice? - -“Desirous of instructing these ignorant people, I sent one of -the Chusas (high official next to the governor) attached to this -governorship, but you sent out a company of men with firearms, twelve -miles, and after dark seized and carried off this official. A Chusa is -a national government officer, military arms are outrageous things; -leaning upon what authority did you do such things as these, and -by whose authority do you arrest and carry off Koreans and try to -administer justice?” - -Mons. Wilhelm replied: “I myself know that these things are not right, -and did them purposely. As far as the book _Chaipan Chang Chung_ is -concerned, I know nothing about it, but I simply relied upon the -previous letter which you had sent. I desired to understand the matter, -and sent you another letter, and because you sent my letter back to me -I still feel very angry.” - -The governor replied: “But your saying that you only recognized my -first letter shows you simply know one thing and cannot know two; as -for your letter and my returning it without an answer, it was because, -after the arrest of my Chusa, I had sent by special messenger a letter -to you, and you had given no answer and sent the man back emptyhanded, -I was indignant. As I had no reply to my letter to you in regard to the -Chang Yung affair, why should I only answer letters? Because I thought -it would be wrong for me to keep your letter that I did not answer, I -returned it.” - -Father Wilhelm replied: “Because in the governor’s last letter on the -envelope he had written _Saham_ I did not answer the letter.” _Saham_ -is written outside of letters which are replies from one slightly -superior in rank. - -The governor replied: “Is it right to allow questions to go -unanswered; is it because you have nothing to say that you fail to -answer all these questions?” - -Father Wilhelm replied: “When Pak Chang Mou’s wrong-doings had not yet -been punished, is it right that he should have been made one of the -tax collectors? When you have arrested and brought him to Hai Ju and -severely punished him, then only will my wrath be appeased.” - -The governor then said: “In the eighth moon of last year when I went to -Whang Ju, I looked carefully into this affair of Pak’s. _Although it -was stated that he had thrown stones, there was no sure proof, and yet -he had been locked up in the local jail and had been punished, during -the investigation_, how, then, can you say that he has gone unpunished? -How can you claim that giving him a petty office several months later -is an injustice? Then, too, you took this man to your church and there -beat him, and still claim that your wrath has not been appeased. -Would you have me arrest him, bring him here and make him and the -complainants face each other?” - -Père Wilhelm answered: “Although I did have him beaten with ten -strokes, it was not a punishment for his main crime, but because when -his magistrate sent Pak to confess his sins he was on the contrary -impudent, and therefore I punished him, but his former offence still -existed.” - -The governor replied: “When you are not a Korean official, is it right -that you should arrest and beat Koreans?” - -Father Wilhelm said: “It is because if I did not beat them I could not -hold my position as superior that I do it.” - -The governor answered: “You, a private citizen, arresting and beating -Koreans and doing wrong, and your written orders to your people, have -caused them to break the laws in eight different ways. They resist the -authority of the government, beat the underlings, and refuse to pay -their taxes. - -“In addition, at their churches and meeting places they establish -courts of justice. - -“Still further, without order, in companies they rush into the presence -of magistrates to terrify them. - -“Still again, of their own accord they arrest, beat and imprison the -people. - -“Again, calling it money for the building of churches, they extort -contributions by force from the people. - -“Furthermore, at their own desire they cut down trees used for Korean -spirit worship, they organize bands to forcibly bury the dead and move -graves; and still further, they force people, who have no desire to do -so, to enter their church.” - -Father Wilhelm replied: “I will with great care stop these eight -offences and will not allow them to do as before; have no fear.” - -Thus ends the report of this unique interview between the governor of -one of the most populous provinces of Korea and the French missionary. -It is to be regretted, however, that his ready promise in regard to -nearly all the eight offenses was repeatedly broken within a very short -time after it was made. I will add one or two other transcriptions from -the official documents, which came directly from the commissioner’s -office to our hands, and which translations appeared in the Korea -_Review_, March, 1903. The first report of the imperial inspector to -the government: - -“I have looked carefully into the disturbances among the people in the -different counties, and the various crimes up to this date noted in -the public records are only one or two in hundreds. Outside of two or -three counties, all the magistrates have been under this oppression, -and with folded hands, are unable to stir. The poor helpless people -sit waiting for doom to overtake them. Receiving imperial orders to -look into the matter, I have undertaken the task, and daily crowds with -petitions fill the court. There are no words to express the sights one -sees, the stories one hears. Depending on the influence of foreigners -(French), the Catholics’ issuing of orders to arrest is of daily -occurrence; their runners are fiercer than leopards, and the torture -they inflict is that reserved for only thieves and robbers; life is -ground out of the people, goods and livelihood are gone. Unless this -kind of thing is put down with strong hand, thousands of lives will be -lost in the end. - -“A French priest by the name of Wilhelm, living in Chang-ke-dong in -Sin-ch-un, a retired spot among the hills, has gathered about him a -mob of lawless people. Their houses number several hundred. Many of -them carry foreign guns, so that country people are afraid, and dare -not take action. A number of those already arrested have been set free -by this priest. Most of those who have slipped the net have escaped -there, and now form a band of robbers. There is no knowing where -trouble will next arise, and it is a time of special anxiety. Those who -assemble there at the ‘call of the whistle’ (bandit) are outlaws, and -must be arrested. They may, however, make use of dangerous weapons, so -we cannot do otherwise than be prepared for them. This is my report. -Look carefully into it. Send word to the office of generals. Wire me -permission to use soldiers, and as occasion offers lend me a helping -hand.” - -While this painful business was on, and my husband was daily attending -the trials and listening to the harrowing tales of the poor, tortured -and robbed people, and seeing heartrending evidences of the cruelties -inflicted upon them, I was holding meetings with the Christian women -who came every morning to study the Bible. One visit only was made to a -small village a short distance outside the city, where there were quite -a number of Christian families. - -All the Christian women quickly assembled at the house of my hostess, -a wholesome farmer’s wife, who came out to the road to welcome me, -took both my hands in hers with a long gentle pressure, and a look of -gladness as bright as if I had been a radiant angel from heaven, or a -returned apostle. Her small rooms were soon filled with Christians and -others, who listened while we held a service and talked of the things -concerning the kingdom. - -Then they, with bounteous hospitality, brought in a store of the -best their homes contained of dainties. They feasted my two native -companions and myself and all the visitors, both Christians and mere -sightseers, and even my chair coolies were given as much as they could -eat, which is no mean amount. - -One woman said that her eldest son had just returned from Sorai and was -urging his father to sell his good farm and home and move there with -his family, so that he and his brothers might attend that school and -church and learn more about God and his will. - -The work in this hamlet all started through the instrumentality of a -young girl in Hai Ju, not seventeen years old, who, having formerly -lived here, after her marriage into a Christian household in the city, -and after her conversion, often returned to her old home and begged her -family to believe and accept Christ. - -Though they scoffed and reviled at first, after a while they began to -listen, and finally one, then another, yielded their hearts. After the -manner of Korean Christians, they “passed on the word,” and so at -length seven families were trusting Christ. - -After seven weeks in Hai Ju we returned to Seoul, having done all that -was possible in the matters we had been sent there to look after, and -having made it plain that Americans would not stand by and see the -natives persecuted and wronged without a strong protest; for while -we try not to interfere between them and their rulers (and this is -at times extremely difficult), we do not feel the same obligation in -the case of French priests. Our hope now is that these outrages will -henceforth be somewhat restricted and that Protestants will at least -remain unmolested, as the mere advertisement and bringing to the light -of the evil would do much to prevent its repetition, the children of -darkness having an ancient dislike of the light. - -Before we returned from Hai Ju we learned of the death by smallpox of -our dear brother, Mr. W. V. Johnson, who had arrived early in February -of that year, his consecrated young wife having died on the way to the -field, in Kobe, Japan. - -We all felt the sweet devoted spirit of the earnest young brother, and -knew that these two valuable lives were not given in vain, but that God -has accepted their sacrifice as if they had done all they planned, and -has chosen to call them to reward a little earlier, because they will -better so fulfil his purpose, for, through and in them. Again, only a -few months later, we were all called to part with a dear sister, Mrs. -F. S. Miller, whose loving sympathy and patient endurance of sickness -and pain had endeared her to missionaries and native Christians alike. -Not a month before her own death, her hands prepared the casket for -the cold little form of one of the dear little missionary babies, of -whom so many are now in heaven. And so, as was said at the time of her -release, “Korea seems a gate to heaven.” Sure it is good to go from -service to the vision of the King. - -This little chain of reminiscences is now at an end. Its object has -simply been to interest Christian people in this most interesting -country, and to show what God is working here. - -It has been necessarily limited, mainly to the experience of one pair -of missionaries, because the writer has neither the knowledge nor the -liberty to speak freely of the lives and work of all, and neither the -ability nor the space to write a complete history of mission work in -Korea. It is hoped that although so restricted, as to be a mere glimpse -of a small fraction of what is being done, it will serve to make plain -what grand opportunities are theirs (_at present_) who would lead a -nation out of bondage into liberty, the only liberty worth calling the -name, or that sinful mortals can use, “the liberty of Christ.” - -Korea, lying as she does so close to China (whose future is fraught -with such mighty possibilities of good or evil to the whole world), -with such close affinities and wide sympathies for that people, is, we -hope, to be a polished shaft in God’s quiver in conquering that great -nation for his kingdom. But whatever his eternal purpose may be, there -is no doubt as to our present privilege and “power to the last particle -is duty.” - -If in these pages you have seen much that leads you to think the land -is a difficult one in which to live, if you have read of political -unrest, bad government, riots, robbers and plagues; if you have learned -that missionaries have died of typhus fever, smallpox, dysentery and -other violent forms of disease, this will only serve to remind you that -the more valuable the prize to be won, the greater the difficulty and -cost. If you desire to share in the joy of this great harvest, and are -worthy, you will fear no danger, shrink from no obstacles, either for -yourselves or for your loved ones, whom you are asked to give to the -work. - -God placed an angel with a flaming sword which turned every way at the -gate of paradise. Is the kingdom still thus guarded? Must we all who -would enter follow him who was made perfect through suffering? What -was our Lord’s meaning when he said, “The kingdom of heaven suffereth -violence, _and the violent take it by force_.” Some of us are ready -to pray that God would place another such flaming sword at the gate -of our mission fields, so that no man or woman who could or would -not brave such baptism of fire should enter. There is no more place -on the mission field for the fearful and unbelieving than in heaven -itself. Like Gideon’s army, let the applicants be reduced till only the -resolute, the consecrated, those who believe in God, the people and -themselves, are accepted for this mighty privilege, this high calling. - -Let it only be remembered by all who would enter the Lord’s army to -wrest the kingdom of heaven from the rulers of darkness, that he, whose -we are, and whom we serve, he who never faltered on the thorny road -that led to Calvary, who trod the wine press alone, who came with dyed -garments through the conflict to victory, has bidden those who profess -to love him, as one of his last commands, thrice repeated, feed his -sheep. - - “Lovest thou me? Feed my sheep.” - “Lovest thou me? Feed my sheep.” - “Lovest thou me? Feed my lambs.” - - -I. - - Oh, never swear thou lovest me, - Who lovest not my sheep; - For he who would my servant be - My treasured flock will keep. - - -II. - - Oh, never vow thou lovest me, - As follower leal and true, - Who shrinkest in my paths to be, - Or fearest my will to do. - - -III. - - Oh, never weep thou lovest me, - My lambs who feedest not; - Who wouldst my crowning glory see, - But hast the cross forgot? - - -IV. - - Nay, if thou lovest, feed my sheep, - On desert moors astray; - The charge I gave thee surely keep, - Until the final day. - - -V. - - Yea, if thou lovest me, thy Lord, - My feeble lambs feed thou; - They wander o’er the world abroad, - Many lie fainting now. - - -VI. - - Then never swear thou lovest me, - Who loves not these of mine; - Who would my true disciple be, - Shall prove his love divine. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - - Historical Review--Korean Characteristics--Football between - Japan, China and Russia--Ill-advised Movements--Unrest - and Excitement--Korea Allied to Japan--Japanese in - Korea--Po an Whai--Kaiwha--Railroad Extension--Japanese - Protectorate--Petition to President Roosevelt--Removal of - American Legation--Education in Korea--Righteous Army--True - Civilization. - - -Before making a brief review of events which have taken place during -the five years that have elapsed since the previous chapters were -written, let us look a little further at the character of the Korean -people so that we may understand them perhaps somewhat better and judge -them a little more fairly as we scan their actions in reference to the -conditions that follow.[5] - -[5] I have to thank Mr. Homer B. Hulbert for many of these facts and -dates, having refreshed my memory by frequent reference to his “History -of Korea” and “The Passing of Korea.” - -Although through the influence of their progressive Queen the country -had been opened to foreigners in 1882, and although missionaries had -been there since 1884, the impression made upon the people as a whole -was very slight, owing to the lack of newspapers and other means of -appeal to the public, and though in the capital a few progressionists -had begun to feel the need of reform, the nation as such was still in -a kind of stupor under the baleful charm of the example of China, and -the influence of her classics and her civilization. Shut up for long -centuries in complete seclusion--even Japan had been open twenty years -to the stimulating influences of the civilization of the West--still -Korea in her belated “Morning Calm” slept on; while Japan had been up -and catching her worms with the “Rising Sun,” and the first rude shock -which startled her from this slumber and made her begin to look about -was the defeat of China by her little neighbor. - -Coincidentally with the rapid march of political events, the Gospel -was making advances with constantly increasing momentum and where the -Spirit of the Lord is there is liberty of thought and action, and -to-day, stung into life by the sharp lash of adversity, Korea is awake, -wide awake, to sleep no more, for her Macbeth has effectually murdered -sleep. - -The Koreans have been frequently spoken and written of as listless, -dull, stupid, lazy, an inferior race; but I submit this has been said -mainly by travellers who did not know them, or by those who were their -enemies and had an object in making the world think them worthless, -or by those who had contented themselves with looking merely on the -surface and had not studied them with a wish to know them at their -best. There is a certain excuse for these views, if one observes only -the rough coolies in the ports or the idle worthless “boulevardiers” -who lounge about the streets of Seoul, or live by sponging on the -generosity of some relative better off than themselves. But such a -class can be found almost anywhere, even among the most advanced -European nations. - -To the writer it seems that there is a close parallel between the -Irishman and the Korean. Both are happy-go-lucky, improvident, -impulsive, warm-hearted, hospitable, generous. Take either in the midst -of his native bogs, untutored, without incentive--he is thoughtless, -careless, dirty; drinking, smoking and gambling away his time with -apparently little ambition for anything better. Remove this same man, -be he Irishman of Great Britain, or Irishman of the East--Korea--place -him in a stimulating environment, educate him, instil the principles -of Protestant Christianity, give him a chance to make a good living, -and a certainty that he may keep his own earnings, and you will not -find a better citizen, a more brilliant scholar, a finer Christian. -Look at the men of North Ireland and tell me if this is not so? Look at -the Christian Korean, self-supporting, independent, sober, faithful, -industrious, eager to study. Hear the testimony of the missionaries of -all denominations. - -Hear the testimony even of the foreign mining companies, who avow the -Koreans are the best workmen of any nationality they have employed. - -Hear the testimony of the American planters in Hawaii, who say that the -Koreans are the best workmen, the most sober, well-behaved, cleanly, -domestic, peaceful and thrifty they have ever used, far superior to the -Japanese, who are quarrelsome and unstable--or even the Chinese. - -Witness the young Koreans who have graduated from our American colleges -and medical schools side by side with Americans, often carrying away -the honors. - -Let us keep these facts in mind and remember that if Korea has been -caught in the toils and has allowed her country to be usurped, she was -caught napping. The whole nation was still in the bogs, and twenty-five -years behind the rest of the world, in a time when a thousand years -is as one day and one day as a thousand years. When China, the Titan, -found herself helpless in the hands of the new régime, what could be -expected of little Korea when she suddenly awoke to find herself shut -in a trap with a foreign army in her capital and foreign guns at her -palace gates? - -The most brilliant speaker at the great international conference in -Tokio two years ago was unanimously by Japanese newspapers conceded -to be a Korean, and an American told the writer that the grandest -sermon he had ever listened to--and he had heard John Hall and the -great Western divines--was preached in Korea by another Korean. The -writer also recalls at this moment still two others who are capable of -carrying any audience along enraptured, and whom she would not hesitate -to rank with the best, most inspiring public speakers she has ever -listened to. - -We know many Koreans who have been given opportunity, environment, -advantage, who have ability, energy, initiative and resource equal to -that of the foremost Americans and Europeans. They are not, perhaps, -_par excellence_, fighters like the Japanese or merchants like the -Chinese. They have not the volatility and headlong impulsiveness of the -one nor the stolid conservatism of the other, but they are the equals -if not the superiors of either. Which of the three evolved an alphabet -and a constitutional form of government? - -This is the conscientious opinion of one who has known them for -twenty years, closely, in every-day contact, through all sorts of -circumstances, in city and country, and it is an opinion almost -the opposite of that which was formed during the first years of -acquaintance with them. It is the result of the developments of -character seen in individuals and the nation. That they are friendly, -hospitable, long-suffering, patient, any one who studies them without -prejudice for a short time will admit, but those of us who know -them best know that they have brilliant gifts and a high grade of -intellectuality. The old simile of the rough diamond is a good one -to apply to Koreans who seem perhaps worthless stones to the ignorant -careless observer, but, when polished, they shine as brilliant jewels -for the Redeemer’s crown. - -Considerable space has been given to this question of Korean ability -because much has been made of the other side, as an excuse for what -might be thought otherwise inexcusable, and because it is right that -the public should know they are not unworthy of its sympathy and -interest. Nor should they be called cowardly because taken unaware by -the rapid succession of cataclysmic political events which have whirled -them along during the last few years. The “Morning Calm” is forever -gone. - -Korea has for many years been in a diplomatic way a sort of football -between Japan, China and Russia, and in 1903 affairs were rapidly -culminating toward the Russo-Japanese war. Yi Yong Ik, the Korean -prime minister, who had then lately returned from Port Arthur and was -zealously pro-Russian, like most of the court and officials, now began -a series of attacks on Japanese interests. - -Koreans had always regarded their neighbors on the East with the -distrust which their not infrequent invasions warranted, and they -believed that Russia, while she might invade, would not seek to -Russianize; while she might plunder, would not colonize, or interfere -at least more than incidentally or occasionally with personal right or -private concerns as the others were almost certain to do. - -Whenever trouble seemed brewing between Japan and other powers, -whatever may have been the reason, the Korean government at least -almost invariably went with the other side, and at this time Korea and -her royal family counted a long score of injuries and wrongs from Japan. - -The murder of their Queen, the cutting of the top-knots, and the -hard and burdensome laws enacted at that time, the indignities the -Emperor had suffered in practical confinement and the insults heaped -upon the dead Queen could not be forgotten. On the other hand Russia -had sheltered and protected the King on his escape, had favored his -complete freedom of action even while he resided in her Legation, -and when patriotic Koreans had complained that Russian influence was -becoming too great, had withdrawn all the causes of complaint, removed -her bank, and the obnoxious officials, favored the departure of the -King to his own palace and left everything in the hands of the Koreans. - -Such conduct, whatever its motive, could not but excite gratitude, -and add to this the degree of certitude with which nearly the whole -East awaited the speedy defeat of the Japanese by mighty, all-powerful -Russia, it is not hard to see why the Korean government were so -strongly pro-Russian. - -This, then, by way of partial explanation of the attitude of Yi Yong -Ik and the Korean court and government and in fact of a great many of -the Korean people, though just here it may be said that multitudes of -the Koreans with all the Americans and Europeans, except perhaps the -French, were pro-Japanese, believing that they would prove the saviors -of Korea from all-absorbing Russia, that reform and progress, good -government and order would follow in their train, and warm were our -good wishes and hearty the delight with which we witnessed Japanese -successes at the opening of the war. - -This attitude of the Korean government continued without change from -the beginning to the end of the war, and now was the time when they -might venture to show their real feeling and attempt some reprisals -upon Japan. - -First of all, then, the minister took the ill-advised measure of -forbidding the use of the notes of the Japanese bank in Seoul, causing -a run which came very near wrecking it. As the Japanese were in a -position to retaliate, this resulted in apologies and withdrawals by -the native government, but left a debt uncancelled for the Japanese to -remember by and by. - -The Russians were next given a concession to cut timber along the Yalu -and soon after, on their asking the privilege of the use of the port of -Yengampo in using this concession, it was granted. - -As is well known, Japan and the foreign powers now urged the opening -of this port to all foreign trade, Russia opposing, and the Korean -government steadily refused. When, in addition, they soon after refused -also to open Wi Ju in accordance with the objections of Russia, it -became quite evident that war alone would ever make Russia retire from -Korean soil. - -In October, Japanese merchants in Korea began calling in outstanding -moneys and from this time on the Koreans were in daily, hourly -suspense, awaiting the war which could bring, in any event, nothing -but disaster and loss, the only thing which they might hope for, being -a degree less of distress, humiliation and misery, in one case than -the other. Their country was to be the spoil of war, as well as its -probable seat, and devastation, rapine and bloodshed loomed darkly -before them. The action of the Korean pawnbrokers, refusing to lend -money at this time, added to the general distress, for many of the -poor are obliged to pawn some of their belongings in the fall, in -order to provide fuel and clothing for the winter, and it was now -feared that an uprising against all foreigners would take place, so -great was the excitement and discontent. Guards were called to the -different Legations to protect their countrymen, and missionaries and -others were warned to come in from the country. “There was a great -deal of disaffection among the poorly paid Korean troops in Seoul. The -Peddlers’ Guild were threatening and capable of any excess and the -unfriendly attitude of Yi Yong Ik toward western foreigners except -French and Russians was quite sufficient reason for these precautionary -measures.”[6] - -[6] Hulbert’s “History of Korea.” - -It was at this time that an American vessel was sent to a northern port -with a message from the Legation to the missionaries to come to Seoul, -but while a few, for various very good reasons, did this, most of these -devoted men and women decided to remain and brave what war might bring -in order to encourage, help and comfort the native Christians. - -The same unrest and excitement which were evident in Seoul, were felt -in the country and a serious movement began in two southern provinces -where it was reported that a formidable insurrection was brewing. -Reports came from the north as well of the banding together of the -disaffected, and many wealthy natives in Seoul began removing their -valuables and families to the country. - -And now the distraught and corrupt government took another step at the -bidding of Russia, and quite in keeping with the traditions of the East -and the self-defensive, evasive diplomacy of the weak. They announced -a neutrality which seemed from subsequent developments to have been -a mere pretense in order to keep Japan out. While this neutrality was -being insisted upon the Japanese announced the arrest of Koreans at -different times, said to be carrying messages from the Korean Emperor -and his government to Russia, asking for aid in the form of troops and -ammunition of war. This is not at all unlikely, yet such are the dark -ways and devious devices of the East, that it would have been quite -as possible for those who wished to make an excuse to prove that the -neutrality was a mere pretense, to have made it, if necessary. There -is nothing more certain, however, than that at that time the Korean -government was at heart wholly pro-Russian, of whatever overt acts she -may or may not have been guilty in breaking her neutrality. Whatever -were the facts, a most laudable excuse for the direct invasion of her -neighbors’ soil was now presented to Japan. - -The beginning of 1904 was marked by the making of Japanese military -stations every fifteen miles between Fusan and Seoul and the sending -of a well-known Japanese general to Seoul as military attaché to the -Japanese Legation. Notices were posted in the city assuring Koreans -that their property and personal rights would be respected, promising -immediate justice if any complaint were made, and from this time on -Chemulpo harbor was blocked. Korean students had previously been -recalled from Japan and now the Japanese began rapidly landing troops -in two southern ports of Korea. After the battle of Chemulpo, which -soon took place, the Japanese landed all their troops further north and -work was rapidly pushed on the Seoul-Fusan railway and also begun on -the road to Wi Ju. - -On February 23d a protocol was signed by Japan and Korea, by virtue -of which Korea practically allied herself with Japan. She granted -the latter the right to use her territory as a road to Manchuria and -engaged to give them every possible facility for prosecuting the war. -On the other hand, Japan guaranteed the independence of Korea and the -safety of her imperial family. It was, of course, on Korea’s side a -case of necessity, though many Koreans really accepted the Japanese -as their friends and believed they would preserve their independence. -However, willy-nilly, there was nothing to do under the circumstances -but to acquiesce for the time being, though the government and court -were still assured that Russia would undoubtedly be the ultimate -victor and the Russians were continually making use of corrupt Korean -officials who served only to complicate affairs with Japan. - -It is more than doubtful whether this protocol, backed by arms, wrung -out of the unwilling Koreans, was ever worth the paper on which it was -written, even to keep up appearances to a people so unsophisticated at -that time as the Koreans. The Japanese were ready at almost any moment -during the war to enforce it and punish its violation, and the native -government were very likely quite as ready to avail themselves of every -opportunity which might offer to break it openly, could either Russia -or China have been depended on to assist. But let us not forget that -these were the acts of a corrupt government and not of the people, -and that their sprightly neighbor had long odds, thanks to the almost -forcible opening of their country thirty years earlier. - -Mr. Hulbert says, “The Japanese handled the situation in Korea -with great circumspection,” which they certainly did. The expected -punishment did not fall on the pro-Russian officials. The perturbation -of the court was quieted and Marquis Ito was sent with friendly -messages to the Emperor. The northern ports of Wi Ju and Yonganpo were -opened and soon Yi Yong Ik who was a large factor in the conspiracies -against Japan was invited to visit that country. The Japanese soldiers -were remarkably orderly and well behaved, a great contrast in this -respect to the Cossacks and Russian guard who had been at the Legation, -who conducted themselves most outrageously, so that they won the hate -and fear of the whole native community, and the disgust and horror of -all western foreigners. - -The Japanese soldiers, we are told by Mr. Hulbert, all belong to the -upper middle classes. “No low class man can stand in the ranks,” and -this being the fact, the wide difference between their behavior and -that of the colonists can be well understood. Suffice it to say that -in the main they did great credit to their country and their conduct -reassured the Koreans and won for them as a rule tolerance and often -real good will. - -However, the reforms which the pro-Japanese had so hopefully expected -did not come. The monetary affairs about which the Japanese had -complained as being so bad were not altered when they came into power, -and in addition they now began to demand all sorts of privileges which -became no small hardship to the Koreans. In Fusan the Japanese Board of -Trade asked their government to secure the maritime customs service, -permission for extra territorial privileges, the establishment of -Japanese agricultural stations, etc. - -In the meanwhile the tide of Japanese immigration was daily rising -higher and higher as to quantity, but the friends of Japan would -certainly like to think that the people who came could have represented -only her worst classes. This is not the place, nor are missionaries -the people to animadvert upon them or their conduct; nor perhaps did -it seem possible with the war on their hands at first, and a hostile -native people to keep in check later, for the few Japanese officials -to look into the cases brought before them, and deal out justice to -their own offending countrymen. But I do say that had they been able to -do so, their task in Korea would be an easier one to-day, for Koreans -are a long-suffering people. Moreover, when loud complaints concerning -the Koreans’ unwillingness to yield to “legally constituted authority” -(?) are heard, let the reader bear in mind that this same “legally -constituted authority” seldom, if ever, so far as the writer is aware, -has protected the Korean in his rights, or made him safe and inviolate -in his home, when a home was left to him. We are not accusing the -Japanese. They have undertaken a difficult task, in which older and -more civilized, more Christian nations have failed, and when we look -at Poland and elsewhere, we do not see that they are more to be blamed -than the illustrious examples they have followed, but we do say, “Do -not judge the Korean too hardly if he rises in self defense to do what -he can to make reprisals on invaders and to defend his own rights.” - -In connection with the laying of the railroads, large tracts of some -of the best land in the country were practically confiscated, and in -Seoul large blocks of the most valuable property in the city were taken -at a merely nominal price, and hundreds of people lost practically all -they had in the world. In the north, where soldiers were quartered on -Koreans, many of the women, whose custom it is never to be seen by -strangers, fled to the mountain recesses at a most inclement season and -incurred untold suffering. Still the Koreans bore all these trials with -remarkable patience and few complaints. - -Many, however, of the malcontents and those who had suffered loss -joined the robbers, and large bands made frequent and destructive raids -upon the smaller towns and villages, adding to the general distress of -the poor people who actually had no one to look to but the missionaries -and Americans whom they regarded as their only friends, who could do -little enough, alas, to help, but who could point them to God who -pities the helpless, and bid them hope in Him. - -Although many of the best Koreans who had trusted in the Japanese had -been disappointed to see none of the promised reforms, great was their -added anger and alarm when on the seventeenth of June the Japanese -authorities made the suggestion “that all uncultivated land in the -Peninsula as well as all other national resources should be open to -the Japanese. The Koreans now indeed raised a storm of protest. The -time was unpropitious. Koreans recognized that the carrying out of this -would result in a Japanese protectorate, though the latter had probably -not believed the Koreans capable of following out the logic of this.”[7] - -[7] Hulbert’s “History of Korea.” - -They however, not being prepared at that time to carry matters -to extremes, after repeated attempts at a compromise, at length -temporarily dropped it. - -The Koreans, in order to oppose the encroachments of the Japanese, -had organized a society “for the promotion of peace and safety” (Po -an Whai) and many exciting discussions took place as to how to defeat -the purposes of the Japanese, while continually a stream of memorials -poured in to the Emperor, beseeching him not to yield to the demands -of the invaders. The latter, therefore, forcibly broke in on one of -the meetings and carried leading members to the police station, and -at other times raided the meeting-place, arrested other members and -confiscated their papers. They further warned the Korean government -that these doings must be firmly put down, and insisted that those who -kept on sending memorials against the Japanese must be arrested and -punished. The position of the Emperor at that time, as ever since, -was certainly not an enviable one, and then if ever was it true that -“uneasy lies the head that wears a crown.” Indeed the poor Korean -Emperor’s crown was sitting very loosely just then and there seemed no -way in sight to keep it from rolling quite away. - -Japanese troops in Seoul were increased at this time to six thousand. -The members of the Po an Whai, on the other hand, sent circular letters -throughout the country. News spreads in a marvellous way in Korea, -faster than by mail, almost as by telegraph the human wireless flies -from mouth to mouth, from hand to hand, and thousands of members were -enrolled in every province. - -In August Japanese military authorities asked for six thousand coolies -to work on the railroad at handsome wages, but the report got out that -these men were to be on the fighting line. Perhaps they distrusted -their employers, but, whatever the reason, only two thousand men could -be obtained and there were frequent bloody fights in the villages when -the effort was made to force men to work. - -The tide of public opinion was now running high against them on account -of the waste land measure and the violation of the right of free -speech, which had hitherto rarely been interfered with by their own -government in spite of all its faults. - -The Po an Whai still continued to carry on its propaganda, so the -Japanese started another, called the Il Chin society, protected -by Japanese police and having only such members as were properly -accredited by them; and following this another society was organized -as the Kuk Min or National People’s Club. Although their plans were -good, having no means whereby to carry them out they were laughed at by -some, but nevertheless they served to strengthen and unify patriotic -feeling, develop progressive ideas, and sow broadcast through the land -a general desire for advance and reform; to bid the people awake to the -dangers threatening them and to stir up a general spirit of inquiry as -to the best method to strengthen their country and finally deliver her. -Perhaps not much wisdom was wasted here. The members were all more or -less ignorant of such things, of almost anything, in fact, but Chinese -classics, but nevertheless a beginning must always be made, and this -was at least something. - -And now in connection with the societies and the universal cry of -“Kaiwha”--progress--one began to see everywhere a distressing admixture -of foreign and native dress. Koreans had been for some time cutting -their hair. Now hundreds were wearing foreign caps and shoes which with -their own long white coats gave the painfully ridiculous appearance of -some one going abroad in night attire, having stopped only for foot and -head gear. Some wore no coats at all but very gaily colored foreign -vests, with their baggy white trousers below. The transition stage in -the dress of eastern peoples is sad to a degree to the foreigner who -loves them and holds their dignity and respectability dear as his own. -The more he cares for the people the more bitterly does he resent the -harrowing and pitiful variety of incongruities evolved by the natives -in their zealous efforts to imitate the foreigner. - -Thus progress and pro-Japanese societies--names by some considered -synonymous--multiplied, but the poor common people were as sheep -without a shepherd, a prey to the wolves and robbers on all hands. - -During that summer the Japanese made their first suggestions that -Korea should recall her foreign representatives and that all Korean -diplomatic business be transacted through the Japanese Legation. This -was not, however, pushed at this time, but was simply a forecast of -what was in store. - -A little later a Mr. Stevens,[8] an American citizen, was nominated by -them as adviser to the Korean foreign office. This was a move of great -discernment, for Americans have always been particularly favored by the -Korean court and people from the Emperor to the coolie, and the advice -of an American would meet a far readier hearing at that time than that -of a Japanese. This man, being the Japanese appointee and dischargeable -only by them, was more than likely, as it chanced, to advise Koreans -according to the wishes of the Japanese, indeed, for what other purpose -could his patrons have placed him there? - -[8] On March 23, 1908, a Korean member of the Religious Army attempted -to assassinate Mr. Stevens at San Francisco, wounding him so seriously -that he died a few days later. - -In accordance with this advice the Korean Emperor disbanded and -dismissed most of the fifty thousand troops he then had under arms, as -he was reminded they were a needless expense. The Japanese had assured -Korea’s independence and a small body-guard was all that was needed. - -About this time, partly in response to the fast growing feeling of the -Koreans themselves that one of their heaviest drawbacks was a lack -of knowledge of Western sciences, a number of foreigners, including -nearly all the missionaries, formed an educational association of -Korea, their object being to prepare text-books for Korean schools. -A little later a large number of Koreans also founded an educational -society which did not attempt to do with politics but gathered together -those who believed education must be one of the important factors in -putting Korea on her feet. - -In September, 1904, the twentieth anniversary of the founding of -Protestant Missions was celebrated. - -The Seoul-Fusan Railroad was completed during this year and the -Seoul-Wi Ju Railroad well under way, and although they were put through -in the interests of the Japanese, missionaries cannot but believe that -unconsciously they were the agents of the Almighty making straight -paths for His own kingdom. The missionaries of the Cross were, with the -Japanese troops, the first people to use these roads while they were -still in construction. - -As the year advanced Japanese kept at work gathering the material -resources of the country. The offices of the high Japanese officials -were said to be literally besieged by their insistent countrymen who -had no doubt come to Korea to make a great fortune one and all under -the ægis of their own victorious troops and there is little doubt that -the task of these officials, between their own rapacious nationals -on the one hand and the Koreans who must be kept quiet for a time at -least, till the army had done with Russia, was not too easy. Fishing -rights along the whole coast were demanded and given, and next trading -and riparian rights were seized. - -The signing of the treaty of peace with Russia was the signal for a -still more active policy in Korea, and then immediate steps were taken -for the establishment of a protectorate. - -It is a well understood and by a certain class of politicians well -practised proverb that “To the victor belong the spoils,” and had Japan -simply seized Korea at this time, it would neither have surprised -nor greatly shocked the world at large, or the readers of universal -history. But the somewhat clumsy attempt to place the Koreans in the -position of suing for this, was on the part of the usually astute -Japanese a strange proceeding. It seems as incredible that they could -have expected to hoodwink the world as it was unnecessary. They -may have wished to produce a certain impression, to create a given -effect on the large party among their own best people who desired the -practical independence of Korea to be preserved and faith kept with -them. Whatever their reasons, the sheep’s clothing was inadequate, and -the grim fact was only too patent to those who were concerned to know -about the matter. - -Early in the autumn of 1905 the Emperor had been approached with the -suggestion of a protectorate. He was willing to recognize Japanese -predominance in Korea, even acquiesced in Japanese advisorships, but -when it came to turning the whole country over he refused. He knew that -if he remained firm it could not be done without arousing indignation -and perhaps some interference in his favor. He determined to lodge a -protest at Washington, turning naturally, as all Koreans do, first to -America and England, but England’s treaties with Japan were so sweeping -that he knew it would be useless to look there. America’s treaty, -however, has the following clause, “That if either of the contracting -parties is injured by a third party, the other shall interfere with -her good offices to effect an amiable settlement.” This could not -be done through the regular channel of the Foreign Office, as the -before mentioned American agent of the Japanese was in charge there. A -personal and private letter was therefore sent direct to the President, -asking him to investigate and help. This message was carried by an -American resident, but the Japanese, probably surmising what was being -done, hurried on the completion of their plans. Marquis Ito was sent to -Seoul with definite instructions. Korea was to be induced or forced to -sign away her existence “voluntarily” (?). - -Though many conferences with the Cabinet took place, there was no -result. The Koreans stood fast for the treaty of 1904 in which Japan -guaranteed independence. Not a member of the Cabinet consented. It -is unnecessary to go into all the painful details, but at last by -surrounding the Cabinet and the palace with soldiers, by having -previously secured the consent of two or three men who were venal, -after repeated efforts and long discussions, show of armed force and -having forcibly removed Han Kyu Sul, the strong Prime Minister (without -whose signature no measure can be legally passed) they managed to gain -a majority of one, and the seal being illegally fixed by the envoy, -the fact was declared accomplished and the authorities immediately -announced in Washington that Korea had voluntarily entered into an -agreement granting Japan a protectorate. The American government almost -immediately recognized Japan’s claim and removed the Legation from -Seoul. The petition of the Emperor arrived in Washington before action -had been taken, but though its arrival was announced to the President, -it was not received till too late. - -“For twenty-five years American representatives and residents had -been reiterating that we stood for right against mere brute force, -and Korea had a right to regard our government as the one above all -others to demur at any encroachment on her independence. But when the -time of difficulty approached we deserted her with such celerity, -such cold-heartedness and such refinement of contempt, that the blood -of every decent American citizen boiled with indignation. While the -most loyal, patriotic, cultured of Korean nobility were committing -suicide one after another, because they would not survive the death -of their country, the American Minister (Mr. Morgan) was toasting the -perpetrators in bumpers of champagne, utterly indifferent to the death -throes of an empire which had treated American citizens with a courtesy -and consideration they had enjoyed in no other Oriental country.”[9] - -[9] Hulbert’s “Passing of Korea.” - -News of this action was carried that night to the editors of one of the -Korean dailies. They worked all night, well knowing that the result of -their action would be confiscation of their presses and imprisonment -at least, but thousands of copies of the paper containing a detailed -report of all that had happened were in the hands of the people -scattered broadcast beyond possibility of recall before the Japanese -were aware. Every effort was made to destroy this publication and to -prevent the spread of this story to other countries but it was too -late. Members of the Cabinet and Court told the story to Americans, and -though there existed a rigid censorship of telegraph lines and mails, -it was carried by foreigners to China, so that even in the minds of -those who lend the most willing ear to the story told by the Japanese, -there must always remain at least a moiety of doubt. - -When, as soon as the fact of the protectorate was announced, the -American Legation was so suddenly removed, there went up as it were -a great cry from the heart of the people, “Et tu, Brute.” It seemed -the seal of their misfortunes, the certainty that their best friend -remorselessly and with hopeless finality had deserted them. - -Strong men were sobbing, moaning, crying like women or little children. -Many committed suicide. Shops were closed with emblems of mourning. A -nation was in sackcloth and ashes, on its face in the dust. It was a -bitter hour for Korea and for the humiliated Americans who for once -were not proud of their government so far as its policy in Korea was -concerned. Well was it for the cowards who had signed the agreement -that when they ventured through the streets it was with a strong -guard of Japanese, for the people would have torn them to pieces, and -as it was, numerous attempts were made on their lives. One of them -attempted or pretended to attempt suicide, and to this step they were -all advised by their compatriots. Japanese troops and artillery were -paraded through the capital, with great show of power. Heavy guards -were stationed at various points, though no attempt at resistance was -made by the unarmed, unorganized, uncaptained mass of the citizens, -against the victorious conquerors of Russia. Pro-Japanese societies and -clubs suddenly collapsed. The party that had believed all along that -Japan would keep her treaty and help Korea maintain her independence, -was now disillusioned, horror-struck and indignant. The missionaries -unanimously did all in their power to quiet the unhappy people, to -prevent useless uprisings and bloodshed, and to comfort them in their -sore distress. Some of them were inclined to resent these efforts to -prevent revolt and to think and say that these missionaries were false -friends who did not care for the welfare of the nation. Who could blame -them for casting such a reproach upon us, when our own government had -deserted them without even a word of commiseration or regret? - -To add to the distress an epidemic of malarial fevers with typhus and -typhoid, took place, on account of the way in which the city drains -had been closed. The city had always been drained by open ditches -which empty into a large drain flowing out under the walls. These -small ditches were, in addition, periodically cleaned out by men who -gather fertilizers; and, purified by sun and air, and washed out by -the rains, they were not so great a source of evil as they looked. -But the new-comers, by way of reform, and with the inevitable eye to -appearances, ordered all these ditches covered. A protest, private -and public, went up from every physician in Seoul. Appeals were made, -but in vain. The ditches were covered with boards and sod and left to -ferment and breed countless colonies of germs, with the result just -mentioned. - -Japanese colonists were still pouring into the country by thousands[10] -and the class who came, and came as conquerors, was such (as has been -noted) as to entail inevitable hardships on the natives. There is an -impression abroad that all Japanese are now civilized. This is a great -mistake. While in the cities there are large schools and universities -of Western learning, it must be remembered there are forty million of -people, most of whom live in the country and are very poor, who have -never been touched by the wave of civilization that has swept over -Tokio, Yokohama, Osaka, Nagasaki and the great cities. They are little -if any different from their grandfathers as Commodore Perry found -them, and their customs of dress, their ideas as to the seclusion of -women, their morals, their habits of thought, their animus is in every -way diametrically opposite to that of the Koreans. Easier would it be -to mix oil and water than these peoples. - -[10] There are now over 100,000 Japanese in Korea and they are coming -at the rate of 50 to 100 a day (1908). - -Some Japanese schools were started by the protectors but the Koreans -were hardly prepared to profit by these, as the teaching was in -Japanese, a language they could not understand, and yet it has been -said that the Koreans did not care for education and were not willing -or fit to make use of the advantages offered them. - -But every little village has its schools, and among the Christians -nearly every little group has its self-supporting parochial school, -where the elements of Western learning are taught and the people are -eagerly begging American missionaries for colleges and high schools -which, as fast as provided, are thronged with students and could be -easily thronged were the capacity doubled. The attitude of the people -toward Christianity is stated in another chapter. Let it suffice to say -that now is the accepted time to push forward with the standard of the -Cross in Korea. - -A young woman graduate of one of our largest American women’s colleges -wrote, “Of one thing I am certain, that Christianity is the force for -good and for enlightenment in Korea, in spite of all that may be said -concerning Japanese reforms, governmental, educational, social.” - -Another writes from Korea: “The whole country is ripe for the picking. -The direful political conditions have turned the people toward the -missionaries and their message is the only succor in sight. The leaders -are openly declaring that in Christianity alone is to be found the -political and social salvation of the nation. In their extremity the -Koreans are ready to turn to the living God. It may not be so two years -hence. _Conditions of which I dare not write are changing the character -of Korea._[11] If the Christian Church has any conception of strategy -and appreciation of opportunity, any sense of relative values, she will -act at once--not next year, but _now_.” - -[11] Morphine is being introduced with fearful success by Japanese, -hundreds of immoral characters are plying their trade and the character -of the people seriously changed. L. H. U. - -Just before the meeting of The Hague the Emperor decided to send an -appeal thither for Korea. He was warned that if he did so it would -result in his death or abdication, but he held firm. He replied that -he knew that would be the case but that the appeal must be made. This -was done and the abdication followed as predicted. Since then the -rebellious among the people, many of those who have sore grievances, -who have lost their homes, perhaps their all, and have been driven -to desperation, have joined hands with the bandits, and form large -companies of insurrectionists, called the Righteous Army, who keep up a -kind of guerrilla warfare, giving the Japanese no rest. - -A newspaper correspondent writes “The whole country is ablaze with -_eui-pyung_ (righteous soldiers.) Their professed object is to protest -against Japanese rule and free the land from it.... As I take up -to-day’s paper it reads ‘Modol (twenty miles west of Seoul) Dec. 7. -Company fifty-one of the Japanese fought with one hundred and fifty -rebels (_eui-pyung_) and drove them off. Su Won (twenty miles south of -Seoul) Dec. 2. _Eui-pyung_ entered the town, robbed, plundered and made -off toward Namyang. Idong (twenty-five miles southeast of Seoul) Dec. -4. _Eui-pyung_ entered and carried off the two chief men. Puk-chung -(three hundred and seventy miles north of Seoul) Dec. 4. After much -effort on the part of government (Japanese) troops, the _eui-pyung_ -have been dispersed. Chechun (one hundred miles south of Seoul) Dec. -2. Three hundred _eui-pyung_ were followed, brought to a fight and -thirteen killed. Changyim (seventy miles north of Seoul) Dec. 1. Fifty -_eui-pyung_ were encountered and in the fight six were killed. Eumsung -(thirty miles southeast of Seoul) Dec. 4. An attack was made on the -_eui-pyung_, two were killed and five wounded,’ etc.” - -“All the while every Japanese wayfarer is marked, followed and done -to death. The _eui-pyung_ are everywhere. In the twinkling of an eye -they gather, they separate. To-day five hundred are here. To-morrow -no one knows where they have been spirited away to. Seoul and the -larger cities alone are safe from their attack.... The task before the -government grows daily more formidable.” - -It has been reported that along the line of some of the railways the -Japanese have been obliged to establish a continuous line of fortified -posts with resident troops to prevent the constant destruction of the -bridges and road bed by the _eui-pyung_, but in these reports coming -from the government we are not told the numbers of their troops killed -and wounded in these encounters, presumably too small to be worth -mentioning. It is nevertheless evident that there is in the minds of a -large number of Koreans objection to the present order which they are -taking this means of recording. - -As for the large body of Christians, they remain the most orderly, -reliable and peaceable of the whole native population. The -missionaries, one and all, whether from a wish to uphold Japanese rule, -or a desire to save useless bloodshed, are unanimous in using all -their influence to quiet the Christians and to induce them to prevent -uprisings and revolts, and after the abdication the Christians in Pyeng -Yang went through the streets counselling forbearance and patience. - -These Christians are, however, no less patriotic than their more -demonstrative compatriots. They are eager for progress, for education, -for uplift, because they believe and openly declare that in Christian -education and Christianity alone is to be found the political and -social salvation of the country. - -They are seeking “Kaiwha” more diligently than ever, and they are -learning that progress and civilization do not consist in altering the -cut and color of a man’s coat or the length of his hair; that it is -not a matter of tramways, wide streets, tall houses, gunboats, well -drilled armies, factories, arts, luxuries, hideous European clothes, -etc. Most Eastern countries have all or many or some of these things, -but even where they are in greatest profusion one feels that something -is wanting. It is as like true civilization as a graphophone is like -the true voice of a friend. There is a hollow, brassy ring about it. It -does not come from a warm, living _heart_ but is only a poor caricature -out of an empty shell. They are learning that true civilization is -not a veneer; it is the solid ringed growth of centuries reaching its -leaves and blossoms unto Heaven. Some of its outgrowths are the things -these people copy so marvellously in paper and wax that we can scarcely -tell the difference. - -At a great fête given in an Eastern city they built most cunningly out -of boards and canvas a grand old tree; they painted it with wonderful -skill and crowned it with paper leaves and blossoms. It was a marvel -whereat the world stood open mouthed for a day, but the rain descended -and the floods came and the wind blew and beat upon the tree and it -fell _for it had no roots_. - -The Korean Christians are learning fast, we hope, that better -civilization of which our dictionaries give but one or two definitions: -“_The humanization of man in society; the satisfaction for him in -society of the true law of human nature_,” and “_The lifting up of men -mentally, morally and socially_.” - -This never was, never will be done by tramways and new clothes. It can -never be brought about by armies and men of war. It will not follow in -the train of art and of luxuries, though they follow it. Men, however -well dressed and well informed, may be after all no better than the -manufactured tree, without the _vital principle of life_ that is in -Christianity to “lift them up mentally, morally and socially” above the -material and sensual and hold them there unshakenly rooted in the rock. - -They are learning that all that is best in Western civilization, the -motor power that stirs the energies of men and brings out the choicest -results is Christian faith and love. Christian principle, and that -where this principle is implanted, this spirit breathed, there is a -civilization made or making, for the choice things of which heathenism -has often not even a word whereby they may be expressed. Test them by -such words as God, Heaven, Home, Love, Faith or Sin--where do they -stand? - -This is the reason that to-day Korean statesmen are saying that in -Christianity is the only hope for Korea’s national salvation. - -And here let me quote Dr. J. D. Davis of Kyoto who says, “If this work -of Christianity can go on unchecked and unchilled Korea will be rapidly -evangelized and filled with millions of happy, enlightened Christian -homes and this little kingdom, despised though it has been, will give -to the world a priceless example of the way and the only way that the -Gospel can be carried to the whole world during the present generation.” - -Again Mrs. Curtis, another American missionary to the Japanese, writes, -“By God’s blessing, within the next ten years, if the Church in America -will do its part, this whole nation (Korea) may be reached with the -Gospel. Korea is fast becoming Christian, and, if Japan does not soon -respond to God’s call to her, there is the prospect of a Christian -people, producing the first-fruits of true life, brought under the sway -of a nation yet dead, who have appropriated the fruits of centuries -of Christian growth, but who refuse to share the life which alone can -make those fruits sweet and wholesome and bring them to perfection. A -Christian nation ruled by another whose real God is National Glory! It -will be laid to the charge of the Christian Church if this becomes a -fact. Every man and woman who is ‘looking for the kingdom of God’ and -faithfully seeking to hasten its coming ought to consider this.”[12] - -[12] Missionary review, March 1908. - -Books which may be relied upon to give trustworthy accounts of -conditions in Korea during the period above referred to are: Hulbert’s -“Passing of Korea,” Doubleday, Page & Co.; McKenzie’s “Unveiled East,” -Hutchinson & Co.; Story’s “To-morrow in the Far East,” Chapman & Hull, -H. G. Underwood’s “The Call of Korea,” Revell (Mission study book); -Hulbert’s “History of Korea.” - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - -PRESENT STATUS OF MISSIONS IN KOREA. - - Present Status of Missions--Wonderful Progress--Education for - Girls--Medical Missions--Denominational Comity--Christianity - Spreading--Individuals at Work--Christian Heroes--Character - of Korean Christians--How the Work Grows--Christian - Influence--Training Classes--Circuit Work--Statistics--Rapid - Extension--Evangelistic Work--Joy and Triumph--The Nation being - Evangelized. - - -What has been previously written in this book regarding missions has -become ancient history already in the swift onward march of events in -Korea. Great political changes have occurred, referred to elsewhere, -and these have doubtless been used in the Providence of God to turn the -people toward the American teachers whom they have learned to trust. -They have been humiliated, afflicted, distressed and perplexed and in -their trouble and anxiety they have been eagerly searching on all sides -for some light on a dark problem. Their cry has been, “What shall we as -a nation do to be saved?” Some of their advisers have said, “Educate -your people;” others, “Make friends with English and Americans;” others -again have said, “Our old religions have never helped us. Perhaps this -doctrine taught by the missionaries is the truth. If so, we have for -centuries been offending the Almighty. He has permitted this curse to -fall upon us. Let us hasten to repent and obey and worship only Him -and perhaps He will be gracious and restore to our nation her ancient -place and name and deliver us.” - -But whatever the remedy suggested, the relief seemed to lie, for -one cause or another, as was said in a previous chapter with the -missionaries, and so the people have been groping, reaching out -lame hands of faith towards what seemed to them the only hope, and -turning in increasing numbers to the missions, to those who are there -to “bind up the broken-hearted, to bid the oppressed go free, and -to publish the acceptable year of the Lord,” and those who come to -find help have found far more than they sought; for earthly freedom, -fellow-citizenship with the saints of the household of God; for their -ignorance they receive the wisdom that knows the love of Christ that -passeth knowledge; and instead of their poverty and emptiness, all the -fullness of God. - -As we try to give some idea of the religious status of the people, -perhaps it would be as well to consider the field at first station -by station. Let us begin, then, with Seoul, the oldest station, the -largest city, and looked at from many points, the most difficult, and -also in some respects the most interesting. - -It is most difficult because here for centuries have been the -headquarters of a corrupt government. Here reside numberless officials -with their retainers and sycophants, their concubines and dancing -girls, and round them seems to revolve most of the political, social, -religious and business life of the majority of the citizens. Graft -plays a large part in the life of Seoul. Multitudes of its people are -living in the hope of making money out of the government or some of its -officials, the idle and the wicked of all classes and both sexes seem -to gravitate naturally toward the capital and now it is crowded with -thousands of foreigners of the most depraved morality. Yet here the -first missionaries settled, perhaps as much because no other center was -then open as for any other reason. - -Here the Presbyterians have now three flourishing churches, the -Northern Methodists have four, the Southern Methodists two, the English -Society for the Propagation of the Gospel have a Mission and the -Romanists also two or three churches. None of these churches would be -recognized to-day for those which were in existence five years ago. -They are all far too small for their congregations, though these are -divided, the men worshipping at one hour, the women at another. If -we are a little late in visiting them we shall not be able to enter, -for doors and windows are crowded and there is not an inch of space -anywhere within hearing of the speaker’s voice. - -In this city the largest congregation is probably that of the Yun -Mot Kol church, which numbers eleven hundred people. The growth here -is remarkable because not four years ago this was the weakest of the -Presbyterian churches, not only numerically but in the character of -its people. They seemed jealous, quarrelsome and niggardly. They were -apparently unable to work in full harmony with the other Presbyterian -churches of the city and unwilling to give in proportion to their -numbers as the others gave, either for the support of their own work -or of the general work of the three carried on in city and country. -But now all is changed. This is now the largest church in the city and -what rejoices all hearts is that it is gathering in large numbers of -the nobility, most of whom live in that quarter. This class of people -we have almost despaired of reaching for many reasons. The habit of -keeping concubines is general among them and it is a terrible ordeal -to wrench away from a woman dearly loved as a wife, and her little -ones, for Koreans are exceedingly fond of their children and family -ties are strong. Again, the Korean noble feels more than the lower -classes, as a religious duty due to family and clan, the obligation -of ancestor worship, and he is cutting himself loose from his place -in social and family life when he abjures this. Still further, all -officials holding office or attending the court must bow before certain -royal tablets, and perform religious duties on certain national -holidays. If this is given up his office must also be resigned. So we -see that for a nobleman to become a Christian he must break the ties -of family, of social and of political life and sacrifice whatever -emoluments he is gaining thereby, and to some of these men it is all -their living. Yet during the last three years a large number of the -nobility have taken this step and their women, who have always been -bound by the custom of seclusion, go in their chairs or even on foot, -well veiled, to the Sabbath services. - -The three Presbyterian churches, as has been said, work together as -one for the evangelization of the heathen population of the city and -surrounding country districts. - -As for schools, both boys’ and girls’, they are all overcrowded; many -applicants must be sent away. The churches have their own parochial -primary schools for girls and boys which they, of course, support as -well as their own church work, and there are boarding schools more -advanced, corresponding to academies, connected with the different -missions, for the reception of pupils who graduate from the lower -schools and also for the children of Christians from the country. - -A noted feature of the change in the spirit of the people is the way in -which all are demanding education for their girls. Twenty years ago -it was almost impossible to get any girls into our schools except the -friendless and sick, little homeless waifs and orphans whom no one else -cared for or wanted. It is interesting to see the way in which these -changes have taken place. Little by little the daughters of Christians -were allowed to attend if the Mission paid all expenses; then the -country Christians began paying for the board and clothing of their -daughters; then the unbelievers began to ask us to take in their girls -and now the nobility are insisting on schools for their young women -and are allowing some of them to mix with the lower caste girls in the -ordinary schools. Mrs. Campbell, in charge of the girls’ school of the -Southern Methodist Mission, who lives in a neighborhood where dwell a -great many of the upper classes, has been literally besieged by wealthy -and high caste ladies who beg her to establish a school for their -young women and girls. Two such schools have been established in the -city under non-Christian auspices and so determined are the people for -education that they will provide it for themselves in these ways if we -do not give them Christian schools. There are now three large mission -boarding-schools for girls in Seoul, which cannot accommodate half the -girls who are applying for admittance. - -The story of the boys’ school is much the same. The English -Episcopalians as well as the Presbyterians and Methodists have -established boys’ schools, although the former are near the river, and -there are also government native schools and Japanese schools of a -non-Christian character. It has been and still is the hope that these -schools of the Methodists and Presbyterians may in the future be united -and thus effect a considerable saving in money, time and effort. - -There is little doubt that in the future the strategic point for our -largest colleges and academies must be in or near Seoul, which is -geographically, politically and socially the center of the peninsula, -and with great fields of mission work north, south and east of it, and -of easy access from all parts of Korea both by rail and water way. - -The medical mission work centers in the Severance Hospital, just -outside the South Gate. This is a modern hospital, fitted up in every -way according to the usages of modern medical and surgical science. -There is a corps of nurses and assistants under the care of an American -trained nurse. Young men are being prepared to practice medicine under -the instruction of our doctors and the hospital and dispensary are -crowded with patients, most of whom pay something for their medicine. -Here again we see the change in the attitude of the people; for whereas -at first people were not often willing to pay anything, and the women -of high class not only would not visit the male physicians, but would -not see them in their own homes except in the direst straits, now -most of them are willing to see the doctors, many of them will go -to the hospital, and gentlemen of high rank are willing to go there -for treatment or operations, take private rooms, pay well for their -care and often express themselves with overflowing gratitude for the -kindness shown them, sending handsome presents, in addition, to their -physicians and nurses, but what is far more important, go away either -converted men or strongly favoring Christianity and the mission work. - -The woman’s hospital and dispensary under the care of the ladies -of the Methodist Mission has been just as flourishing, only it has -not been favored by having so generous a patron as the Severance -Hospital, but it is doing a good work and is known far and wide. The -devoted women in charge of it are heart and soul in favor of union and -undenominational mission work and they and we hope that all the medical -work in Korea may be united under one medical committee and carried -on in harmony with one plan, for the better economy of time, money -and effort, and for the better and happier spirit, the avoidance of -small jealousies and frictions, the uplift that comes to those who are -working together as one, according to our Lord’s will and command. - -For the same reasons, until the happy time when there shall be in -all Korea but one united church of Jesus, the various missions have -gradually been coming to a certain degree of agreement as to division -of territory in Korea. - -“Beginning from the south, we find the provinces of North and South -Chulla, together with a few counties in the southern part of Chung -Chong assigned exclusively to the Southern Presbyterians. The Southern -province of Kyeng Keui is divided by counties between the Australian -and American Northern Presbyterians, but North Kyeng Keui is left -exclusively to the Northern Presbyterians. The provinces of North and -South Chung Chong fall jointly to the American Northern Presbyterians -and Methodists and a careful division of the territory by counties -is under consideration. Kang Won is divided between the Southern -Methodists and Northern Presbyterians and the Church of England, but -even here there are mutual arrangements to prevent overlapping. The -provinces of North and South Ham Kyeng have been left almost entirely -to the care of the Canadian Presbyterian Church, while the other -three provinces of Whang Hai and North and South Pyeng An are jointly -worked by the American Northern Presbyterian and Methodist churches, a -division according to counties having been arranged for most of this -section and under advisement for the balance.”[13] - -[13] From “Call of Korea” by H. G. Underwood. - -We find then that Seoul is the center for a very large and important -country work, divided between the missions of the Northern and Southern -Methodists and the Northern Presbyterians and includes parts of the -Southern province of Kyeng Keui with all of Kyeng Keui North and South -Chung Chong and Kang Won, giving a population of considerably over -three million people, that assigned to the Presbyterians of Seoul -alone having 1,500,000 inhabitants, and consists of a belt practically -covering the whole width of the peninsula, comprising an area slightly -less than that of West Virginia and about the same latitude. The -Presbyterians have 123 self-supporting churches, 178 places of regular -meeting, 1612 communicants, of which 315 were added last year, and -7500 adherents, and in 44 schools, they have an enrolment of over -750 scholars. For the care and oversight of all this they have eight -clerical men, two doctors and four single ladies, but it must be -remembered that three men must give the most of their time to Bible -translation and literary work and Seoul being in a way the center for -the whole field no small amount of technical business and committee -work of the Mission devolves on these men, as well as the Mission -schools. The Tract Society and Young Men’s Christian Associations and -the Bible Societies have their agencies here and all these societies -must claim a good deal of the time of Seoul missionaries, so that we -may say that not more than five men are able to look after the needs of -the great Bishopric of over 1,500,000 souls, the share of the Northern -Presbyterians. - -Chong Ju, though as yet considered part of Seoul station and its -reports of work given there, will be in the near future a separate -station and is now occupied by two clerical missionaries, one of whom -is married. The work there is increasingly promising and the new -station is in a very populous district. Mr. F. S. Miller writes, “The -year has been one of lengthening cords, so that instead of 26 groups -and meeting places we have now 44, instead of 46 communicants there -are now 102, instead of 68 catechumens there are now 260, instead of -five church buildings there are now fourteen, instead of $264.10 gold -contributions there are $408.63. The work now extends eighty miles -north, sixty miles south, seventy miles west and thirty-three miles -east. We have groups and meeting places in twelve of the seventeen -counties of the northern province and are working in twenty counties of -the southern province. It takes two months of solid itineration to make -_the round of the established work alone_. The Christians received much -benefit from the revivals which the Spirit worked first in the city -church and then in a succession of country classes till even the most -conservative helper found himself in charge of a revival where he saw -such conviction of sin as he had not thought possible before.” - -The Northern Methodists connected with Seoul station have oversight of -nearly 100 churches with 4283 members and some 2851 seekers. More than -one million people inhabit the territory of this Mission around Seoul -and for the care of all these together with charge of their publishing -house, which undertakes work for the whole country, and for the schools -and Women’s Hospital, they have only six men and seven single ladies. - -At Seoul the Southern Methodists have four ordained men and four -single ladies. The last statistics of this Mission show 181 churches -with 89 church buildings, 4998 members. Before turning to some of the -other large centers of Mission work we must not forget to mention the -Methodist Mission Press, which is the only mission press in Korea -except a small one in Pyeng Yang, and the Y. M. C. A., which is -accomplishing great things for the large numbers of young men of wealth -and rank as well as for those of poorer families. Early in the history -of the work we began to realize the need of some means of reaching -the very large class of young men who would not go to the churches -or the schools, to provide a pleasant and attractive gathering place -where they could find simple and innocent amusement and instruction, -to make it all sufficiently attractive to be a means of reaching these -young men with the gospel. This of course was its first, last and only -_raison d’être_. Forthwith the Y. M. C. A. in America were approached. -Shortly after an agent was sent and from the first this association -has been an untold blessing and a great success. Hundreds of young men -belong; thousands attend and receive the gospel; the Koreans themselves -have given thousands of dollars towards its support. One Korean -gentleman from whom we wished to purchase land made a present of it to -the Association and last year so great was the number attending one of -the meetings that even the new temporary building was insufficient and -the great throng were obliged to meet under a tent temporarily put up -for the purpose. - -It must be remembered that Koreans have no theatres, concerts, operas, -lectures, or any other evening entertainments. They haven’t even any -attractive saloons or gambling places. They gamble and drink, it is -only too true, but in their own homes, so that an attractive place -for evening entertainments like the Y. M. C. A. met one of the very -most crying needs of the public. There are classes here for the study -of music, English and Japanese, and other branches of learning. There -are games, newspapers, books and frequent entertainments, musical and -literary, and so this institution is reaching out widely among the best -families of the land, winning a place and a hearing for the missionary -and the gospel he proclaims, reclaiming lost young men, yes, whole -families, and bringing them into the true fold. Whether it may or may -not be the best thing elsewhere, it is certainly a necessity in Seoul, -and it has had so long and far a start of Satan’s man-traps that we -believe they will never be able to overtake it in the race. And now -let me give a few quotations from the letters of some of the Seoul -missionaries before turning to another part of the field. - -A Methodist missionary from Seoul writes to “The Korea Field” of 1907. -“In the early spring of 1899 I itinerated through the southeastern -section of the Kyeng Keui province and baptized a man and two of his -family. It was like putting a match to dry prairie grass. Thereafter -until the present day it has been a constant hustle to gather in the -groups of believers springing up all over the territory and organize -them into churches. Before I left on furlough in 1905 the number of -believers had already reached into the thousands; since my return last -fall it has been a continual struggle to organize the work and man it -with efficient leaders and get it ready for a grand rally all over the -district. The little group composed of a man and his family baptized -in an obscure village was the first of a mighty host, for the work -begun there has spread into five provinces and now, as it stands on -our rolls, numbers 298 groups, besides a number of those that are not -yet counted, enrolling 16,202 believers. Daily new groups are coming -into existence and _pleading for guidance and instruction_. Chapels -have been built all over the district by earnest believers _who never -think of asking for foreign aid_ (in money). School buildings have been -secured and schools are being conducted on a modern plan. In this short -while I cannot tell all the wonders that His grace has wrought in this -part of the field, when I think of all the things that I have seen -during the last six months, my heart grows warm and glad within me. For -the best part of it is that people are being saved and are entering -into a live experience of redeeming grace.” This district has a second -time within two years been deprived of the care of its missionary, the -one who wrote this letter having been laid low by violent sunstroke, -and now this great district is in the hands of a new young missionary -who has not yet learned the language. - -Here are a few extracts from the letter of one of the Presbyterian -missionaries at Seoul, written to “The Korea Field” of July, 1907. -His district is in North Kyeng Keui. “The first place visited was a -village twenty miles south of Seoul where _no missionary has ever been -before. I found a group of over fifty believers_, all an outgrowth of -the work of native Christians. I was further surprised to find a chapel -almost completed. * * * From morning till late in the evening we spent -examining men, women and children for admission as catechumens and -accepted most of them.” - -He continues, “Ten miles north is my Soti group, noted for its -missionary zeal. Only a year ago the people built a fine big church -with a room adjoining it especially for the use of the foreign -missionary on his visits. During the past year, through the efforts -of the four leading men and chiefly of deacon Paik three groups of -Christians have grown up within a radius of three miles. One of these -groups numbers about twenty-five and has already purchased a house to -be used for worship. Another group was just started and consists of -eighteen adherents, while about forty men and women make up the third -group that will soon have a church building of their own. Every Sunday -one or two men are detailed from Soti for each of these three groups -to lead the morning and afternoon services.” The leading man, deacon -Paik, is of untiring missionary zeal and great earnestness. He has -been blessed with a big, strong body and does not hesitate to use it -for the church. To carry heavy loads of lumber for miles on his back -and to spend days in making mortar and plastering when the church was -being built, to walk forty miles in the winter to Seoul for the sake of -getting material for preparing the church, to start out ahead of me to -the next group, ten miles away, to prepare them for my visit, to carry -my heavy country boxes himself when no coolie could be found--all these -tasks are looked upon by him not as burdensome duties but a pleasant -privilege.” - -At Tang Mok Kol for several years past there had been but one -Christian. Every Sunday he went three miles to the nearest church to -worship. A year ago three more men became believers and last winter the -gospel began to spread very rapidly among the villages. One of the new -converts was especially impressed with the necessity of getting a place -large enough to accommodate all the worshippers. Rather than wait until -the new converts would be able to build a church he sold his big fine -working bull (a bull is a farmer’s chief dependence and most valuable -possession) and purchased with the proceeds a meeting place. When I -asked him what he would do when farming time came, he told me he had -a young animal and by its aid he hoped to manage his work. What would -we think of a farmer who would sell all his working teams for the sake -of buying a church? And yet no one among the Koreans thought this act -very wonderful, even though the giver had been professing Christianity -only a few months and was not even a catechumen. The self-sacrifice of -this man produced the natural result and when shortly after my winter’s -visit the church became too small, the people at once obtained the -necessary timber and with their own hands enlarged the building. On -this visit I found a house seating sixty people and comfortably filled.” - -Mr. Pieters continues, “In another village composed largely of inns a -group was formed and shortly after a building purchased for a church. -One of the Christians worked so enthusiastically that their numbers -grew rapidly. People who had all their lives been making their living -by selling whiskey gave up this means of livelihood and turned to -farming. Further on, deep in the hills, is an isolated village where a -number of men have been led to Christ by a boy. The latter had heard -the gospel in one of our churches and by his own words as well as by -the aid of Christian books he led his parents to believe. Then he began -to invite people to their house, talked and read his books to them -until one by one the neighbors accepted Christ. - -“All last winter these converts went down every Sunday to the church -where the boy had been converted ten miles away but since this spring -one of the church members has been sent up there to conduct the Sunday -services there. It is quite unusual in Korea for a boy to take the -lead, for the Confucian ethics require a boy in the presence of older -people to be silently respectful. Thus came true the prophet’s words, -‘A little child shall lead them.’ In my next church there were a year -ago only a few believers. The need of a school for their children was -felt most keenly and I recommended as the teacher an earnest Christian, -an old man. He went for a very meagre salary, but spent his spare time -preaching to the people and teaching a number of people to read. The -group grew by last winter to about fifty men and women. Most of the -winter they met for their services in two rooms and on the open porch -of the house of one of the Christians. _When the freezing weather -came, it became trying to sit for an hour and a half in the open air -during the services_, and the people decided to build a church. By -buying trees in the hills and cutting them and carrying them down, by -collecting loose stones, by preparing other materials and doing all -the work with their own hands and by other very strenuous efforts, -the people succeeded in putting up a fine church that will seat 120 -persons. One part was partitioned off and fitted for a school, but it -can be thrown open during the services. Four boys of this school, each -less than ten years old, came every day a distance of three miles to -study. Last winter I met one day the four little figures trudging along -the muddy road carrying in their mittless hands bowls of cold rice for -their dinner. They were cheerful and seemingly quite content to walk -the six miles every day since it gave them the opportunity of study -that so many boys did not have. - -“The average earning capacity of the majority of families that make up -the Christian constituency of this district is about thirty dollars a -year for a whole family. Keeping these facts in mind, we can easily -see,” says Mr. Pieters, “how a contribution of two dollars, which -is quite common here when a church is being built, gives forty-fold -measured by standards of values in America. In addition, none of these -have been professing Christianity more than two years and none of them -are yet baptized. These are the catechumens and adherents.” - -But we must turn away from these incidents illustrating so thrillingly -as they do the wonderful work of God among the people and the kind of -Christians He is calling into His fold there. Their liberality, their -consecration, their zeal, their faith, all proclaim them preeminently -the work of the Spirit, and these particular provinces do not abound -more in these examples, than others of which every missionary can tell. -These, in fact, have never been considered so hopeful and progressive -as those in the North. - -Time and space will not suffice to describe as carefully the work of -every station as of the larger centers and we must hasten on. Fusan -Station was started next after Seoul, but a series of deaths and -removals from one unavoidable cause after another almost seemed to -indicate that the will of God was that the station itself should be -removed to some other place. But houses and a fine hospital having -been built, the brave missionaries have endured discouragement and -disappointment, not in the natives, but in the constant depletion of -their forces, and to-day as everywhere in Korea the work is rapidly -growing and spreading. The Presbyterian Hospital here, built by some -generous Christians in America, is absolutely up-to-date, and the -physicians’ work is an immense factor in spreading the knowledge of the -love of Christ through all the surrounding country. During the year -there have been added to this comparatively small church an increase -of almost fifty per cent. The territory of this station comprises -the Province of South Kyeng Seng and considering the Australians who -share the work, there are left to be evangelized by the American -Presbyterian Mission here 750,000 people. There are 47 self-supporting -churches, 520 communicant members, with 2017 adherents. All this work -is under the care of two clerical workers and the assistance of an -overworked doctor who sees thousands of patients and performs hundreds -of serious operations with no assistants but Koreans. The Australian -Presbyterian Mission who share this work here have a good local church -and girls’ school at Fusan and have started a new station at Chin Ju. -They have three clerical missionaries, one of whom is a doctor, and -three single ladies. - -After Fusan, Pyeng Yang was the next station to be established in -Korea. Its history in the early times has been already given in -another chapter. Perhaps because of the many trials its people have -had to endure in the course of the two Japanese wars and subsequent -colonization by aliens, perhaps because from the earliest times, -first from Manchuria and then from Seoul the gospel seeds were most -persistently and continuously sown here, perhaps because the people -of the north are more ready and receptive, we know not, but the work -during the last fifteen years has multiplied and spread with far more -amazing rapidity in the north than in the middle and southern portions -of Korea. - -The same can hardly be said much longer. Witness Mr. Swearer’s letter, -just quoted, and the wonderful percentage of growth in other places. -The south has at last taken fire, too, but nevertheless, even to-day, -the greatest fruits of mission efforts are being gathered in our -northern stations. - -This station was started in 1893 and has under its care the province -of South Pyeng Yang which, though small, is thickly populated, and -a portion of North Whang Hai, including about 800,000 people to be -evangelized. There are seven ordained Presbyterian ministers on whose -shoulders in addition to this evangelistic work rests a large share -of theological instruction, two large educational institutions, the -preparation of school text-books and books of all kinds as well as the -care and direction of eleemosynary institutions such as a school for -the blind and home for the friendless. - -The institutional work for women is largely under the care of two -ladies and the evangelistic work for women is ably undertaken by the -wives of the missionaries who all devote to it a great deal of time and -faithful work. - -“One part of the province of Whang Hai, at first coming under the care -of Pyeng Yang station, about two years ago was set off with a part of -that belonging to Seoul station to form the new station of Chai Ryong, -and a part of Northern Pyeng An province which also was at first a part -of Pyeng Yang territory, was set aside to form the Syen Chun station -as the work grew too heavy and was too distant to receive the careful -constant oversight needed from Pyeng Yang city. The territory and work -in this province is shared with the Northern Methodists. A division -according to counties has been arranged between these two denominations -for most of this section and a similar division is now under advisement -for the balance. The Methodists have at present only three ordained -clerical missionaries and one physician to care for their share of -the evangelistic work in this district which includes the province -of South Pyeng An with the entire province of Whang Hai, making this -mission’s share of the population in the neighborhood of one million, -for whom there are only four ordained men, one of whom must give his -entire time to educational work. As with the Presbyterians, the wives -of the missionaries take a full and active part in the evangelistic -work. In 1893, when these two denominations planted their stations -and organized their two churches neither could have counted more than -twenty baptized members--not seventy-five baptized persons in the whole -province, not four chapels in the extent of their district. Now, 1907, -the Presbyterians have 164 self-supporting churches with 258 regular -meeting places, 6089 communicants of whom 1106 were added during the -year and 20414 adherents. For the instruction of the children in those -churches there are 111 parochial schools of which 110 are entirely -self-supporting, with an attendance of 3075 pupils. In the city are -four churches, Central, South, North and East, with another church to -be set off in the West almost at once. Although three other churches -have already been set off from the Central Church it is still too small -and they are compelled to hold two services for the accommodation of -the one congregation, packing the building first with men, later with -women. “It is here that the great prayer-meetings of between eleven and -twelve hundred are held, while on the same night similar meetings are -held in the other churches, giving some three or four thousand people -for the week night services. This has also become an institutional -church, with its church house in the center of the city with recreation -and reading rooms, night schools and classes for educational training -and a large book shop for the dissemination of the printed Word.”[14] - -[14] “Korea’s Challenge,” by H. G. Underwood. - -To a large extent the better class of the people of the city have -been reached and to-day the whole city feels the effect of Christian -influence. A Christian sentiment rules and the actions of church -members have a reflex influence on the whole community. Not only -is this the case within the city walls but this influence reaches -far into the country. Its own evangelists sometimes paid by the -native church, sometimes voluntarily at their own expense, go freely -everywhere, preaching, establishing groups of Christians, which become -self-supporting churches, and holding Bible classes. Most of these -groups have their schools and in their turn as they gain strength send -out evangelists and workers, thus multiplying the influence of the -gospel and everywhere that this influence prevails saloons are closed, -the Sabbath is kept holy, gambling and vice of every kind is suppressed -and first of all idolatry is abolished. Let me here quote a few lines -from the letter of an American young lady who visited some of the -services held in Pyeng Yang. - -“We visited eight Sunday Schools--Sunday Schools of small boys and -small girls, of big boys and older girls, of married women and of -married men, varying from one to three hundred pupils respectively. -Every room was flooded with sunlight and crowded with white, spotless -linen-dressed men or women, though nothing had been said to them on -the subject of their appearance or their dress; the Christians have -all adopted the custom of making valiant efforts, no matter how poor -they are, to appear in clean clothes each Sunday. You can imagine what -this means for women who toil all day every day but Sunday, and who -wear voluminous white dresses and white handkerchiefs tied around their -heads like Dutch caps. The effect is wonderful. Their faces shone like -the morning, their clothes glistened like white satin. There were six -hundred gathered in one church for special women’s service at eleven -o’clock. Seated close together on the floor, facing me (I was at the -organ on the platform), with their black hair securely tied back under -their handkerchiefs, their dark eyes full of expression, their white -teeth glistening as they smiled at me or the speaker--they were truly -beautiful.” - -The country work is divided into seven circuits and in both local and -city work those whose assignment is educational or medical assist also. -One of these city churches will accommodate about fifteen hundred. In -the others about eight hundred to one thousand can be received. - -The Methodists have two large city churches, one of which is the First -Church of Pyeng Yang and the other the Drew-Appenzeller Memorial -Church. They have four country circuits with a total membership of 4958 -to which we must add 5308 seekers. They have 43 primary schools with -1405 pupils. - -In medical work the Presbyterians in charge of the Caroline A. Ladd -hospital and the Methodists have almost complete union, and the -evangelistic opportunities of these hospitals and dispensaries can -scarcely be overestimated. Thousands of patients are treated here every -year. Mrs. R. S. Hall, M.D., Methodist, has charge of the Hall Memorial -Hospital for women. Women’s work is carried on by the Methodists -through their married ladies and four single lady missionaries, one of -whom is a native Korean, educated in America and having received the -degree of M.D. in an American university. These ladies are constantly -engaged in giving Biblical and secular teaching both in the city and in -the country districts. - -In both the Presbyterian and Methodist missions one of the strongest -features here as indeed all through Korea, is the system of training -classes “which are similar to a Bible Institute in America and range -from those who are just learning to read to those who have studied -their Bibles for years. In the Presbyterian Mission the class for 1907 -from the country districts of Pyeng An, meeting in Pyeng Yang City, -reached an enrolment of about 1000, the classes for the men of the city -about 800 hundred, that for country women 560, that for city women 300. -In addition to these classes which in the case of the men was mainly -for leaders, 182 classes were held in central places in the country, -the women missionaries having charge of ten with an enrolment of 685 -men, making altogether 192 of these classes with an enrolment of 9650. -We are sorry not to be able to give the figures of similar classes held -by the Methodists. We thus have a complete system of Bible instruction -which is illustrated by the following simple diagram. - -[Illustration] - -The large spots at the end of the radii represent the country centers -and to these the people from the little villages round, represented by -the small dots, gather to the country classes, while the leaders from -all these places, large and small, and many laymen, go up to Pyeng Yang -once a year to the leaders’ Bible training classes. - -In this station is the theological seminary for all the Presbyterian -missions working in Korea. Here students carefully selected from all -over the country are in regular attendance three months of each year, -the rest of their time being spent in active evangelistic work. The -instructors here are missionaries from all the stations and from each -Presbyterian Mission, but those residing in Pyeng Yang do a greater -portion of this work than others. A much more extended and complete -union in educational work between Methodists and Presbyterians has been -attained in Pyeng Yang than elsewhere. In the college and academic work -of this section there has been a tentative union, but those engaged -in this believe it will soon be a fixed arrangement. This educational -work is under the especial charge of the Presbyterian missionaries -assisted by other members of the station and by one of the Methodist -missionaries. The growth during the last year, especially, has been -very great. - -Two single ladies have charge of the institutional work of the -Presbyterians. There are girls’ schools and women’s Bible classes in -both city and country districts. - -A letter very recently received, February, 1908, giving a few reports -from the country circuits, will show something of the present progress -of missions there. Mr. Swallen, reporting for his itinerating work from -October to December, 1907, says in substance, “During a trip in which I -visited every point except one or two of the smallest ones I found the -work exceedingly encouraging. Especially through the central west all -the churches are growing rapidly. I made one visit to Pastor Seng’s, -holding a circuit class--Bible--in the latter section attended by two -hundred men and a leaders’ meeting with an attendance of nearly one -hundred. The work of the circuit is so great that it has been divided -and hereafter there will be two leaders’ meetings and two circuit -classes. Last year the district supported eleven helpers at a cost of -twelve hundred nyang each, thirteen nyang more than this sum being in -the Treasurer’s hands at the end of the year. Since then two of the -helpers have become pastors and are receiving thirty-six hundred nyang, -but in addition to this the people propose to support ten helpers and -have increased the salaries of all who are helpers of experience. Still -more, they have given enough money to send a helper to the new mission -field in the island of Quel Part, the mission field of Chu Chu. I -feel strongly the need of instruction for the multitudes coming in. I -preached every day and night but what is that when the need is so great -and much of my preaching is special instruction at the commemoration -of the Lord’s Supper. Even the helpers cannot spend much time in -instruction; there are so many places to visit they can scarcely know -all the people. There must be lay instruction and I feel very strongly -that _we must do something at once in the matter of teaching those -who are to give it_. At one class twenty of the leaders and deacons -alone expressed their desire to study for a month in Pyeng Yang in -preparation for this work. During the three months I have baptized -500 adults and 14 children and have received 799 catechumens. Thirty -women’s classes have been arranged for aside from the circuits in -charge of the two pastors, and during the first two weeks of the Korean -New Year forty-four classes for men will be held in the district.” -These classes are from a week to ten days’ duration. The same letter -goes on to say that “Mr. Bernheisel during fifty-five days in the -country travelled about 650 miles, visiting 43 groups of Christians.... -There are now five helpers in this district. 164 adults were received -in baptism and 277 catechumens. In October Mr. Lee baptized 57 adults -in his Whang Chu circuit and found great advance in educational lines. -There are now eleven boys’ schools and one academy, seven night schools -and four schools for girls. The church in Whang Chu purchased for three -thousand nyang a fine tiled building, formerly a Roman Catholic church -to be used as their school. - -“Early in November Mr. Moffett made his first visit to his Eastern -circuit in company with the newly ordained Pastor Han, they together -receiving in baptism 73 adults in three churches. In their district -four classes for women had an aggregate attendance of 123.” - -Tai Ku, being the third largest city in Korea, in the midst of a very -densely populated province, that of North Kyeng Seng, of which it is -the capital, a station was opened here, in 1899. The missionaries -had taken their residence there in 1897. This province is said to -contain 1,750,000 people and is left entirely to our mission and here -in this city is a fairly well equipped hospital, a church with an -average attendance of between seven and eight hundred and an academy -which it is expected will meet the needs of Tai Ku and Fusan for some -years to come. “It is still pioneering work in this district. The -work is divided into that of the city and four country districts. -In the latter they have 85 entirely self-supporting churches with -564 communicants--of whom 280 were added during the year--and -6145 adherents. These churches have 49 schools, 46 being entirely -self-supporting, with an enrolment of 433 pupils. The numbers of -applicants and baptized have been nearly doubling themselves in this -station yearly for the past three or four years. All this work with the -responsibility for nearly two millions souls is on the shoulders of -four ordained men and one physician, their wives and one single woman. -“The responsibility,” I said, humanly speaking, for could they not cast -this burden on the Lord it would certainly crush them, but in addition -to the knowledge, the inspiring knowledge that they are workers -together with Him, they also realize that they have the earnest prayers -of brother missionaries and of Christians in home lands. - -The members of the Southern Presbyterian Mission arrived in 1893 and -have always worked in harmony with the Northern church. They assisted -the Northern Mission for a few years while studying the language and -finally started their first station in Chun Ju, the adjacent territory -for which they are responsible having a population of five hundred -thousand. There are 60 out stations, 386 communicants, 4000 adherents -and there are ten schools of which nine are self-supporting. There is -only one missionary and his wife to work this territory. Kun Son is -really the port of Chun Ju and with its surrounding population has a -territory inhabited by five hundred thousand people with four clerical -men, one of whom is married, to care for them. They report 27 out -stations, 381 communicants, 1150 adherents, six schools and 125 pupils. - -Mok Po and Quang Ju should be considered as one station, the one being -the port, the other the capital of this southern province and this -station has entire charge of the province of South Chulla Chulla, with -a population something over one million. Here are four missionaries, -three of whom are married and one single lady. They report 53 out -stations, 284 communicants, 3260 adherents and carry on three schools -with 66 pupils. Two million people are here left to be evangelized -by eight missionaries. Says the Rev. Mr. Preston, “The number of -recognized stations on my circuit has grown from seven to fourteen. A -chain of stations within easy distance of each other has been effected. -The growth has been very gratifying. I examined in all 331 people of -whom 74 received baptism and 193 were received as catechumens. The -total number in these groups is 120 baptized and 188 catechumens, as -against 49 baptized and 75 catechumens last September. It seems hard -to realize that only a year and a half ago this work consisted of Mok -Po with 27 baptized and 17 catechumens, Soo Yung with six catechumens -and Sadong with none. Mok Po is in a flourishing condition, the _growth -having been more than fifty per cent in the last nine months_. This, -too, is in the south, where it was said by some only a few years ago -that the people were so different from those in the north we could -never expect similar results among them.” - -The Canadian Presbyterians, arriving in 1898, have by mutual agreement -been assigned the northern province of Ham Kyeng and have stations -at Won San, Ham Eung and one point still further north. They have at -present six clerical workers, one male physician, one lady doctor and -one other single woman. They have 62 self-supporting churches with -814 members, adherents 3830, who gave last year $2,573.34. Almost the -entire population of this province is left to their care. - -Syen Chun was set aside as a station in 1901, when the work in North -Pyeng Yang was growing so rapidly that it was impossible to care -for it from the old center. The territory is about three hundred -miles long by one hundred and fifty wide and includes a population -of about eight hundred thousand, of whom fully five hundred thousand -are the Presbyterian allotment, for the Methodists located at Yeng -Byen have divided this with them. When this station was opened, the -enrolled membership including catechumens was 1800. There are now in -charge three married clerical missionaries, one doctor and his wife -and two single women. A new church to accommodate fifteen hundred -people has just been erected in this town which, with a men’s Sunday -School numbering eight hundred and a women’s numbering seven hundred -thirty-three, is only a part of the results since the station was -established. - -The country work is divided into twenty-one circuits and during the -year twenty-four new groups have been started. Included in this -territory is the Kang Kei district to the north east. Here there are -three circuits with three helpers, thirteen school teachers, three home -missionaries and two colporteurs, all entirely supported by the native -church. - -The difficulty of access and the great distance make it imperative -that a new station should be started here at Kang Kei as the people -are eager, intelligent and among the most responsive and progressive -in the province. For this new station at least two ordained men and a -physician will be necessary. - -During the past year, 1906-7, this station reports 102 churches, all -self-supporting, with 4,639 communicants, of whom 1085 were added -last year and a total of adherents of 15,348. These churches support -103 schools with an enrolment of 2,290 pupils. The rapidly increasing -number of graduates from primary schools who demanded further -instruction and the insistence of their parents have made it necessary -to open temporary academies in various parts of the province but these -will be now united at Syen Chun, the necessary funds having been -generously given by a Christian woman in New York. - -The two single ladies with the missionaries’ wives have women’s work in -charge which includes women’s training classes, girls’ schools and two -girls’ academies to be opened for a part of the year. - -Chai Ryong station was started like Syen Chun because the rapidly -increasing work made it seem necessary to place resident missionaries -in their midst, so this station was opened in 1905-6 with three -married clerical men and one doctor and his wife. In this city the -natives have built and paid for a new church with a seating capacity -of one thousand. The missionaries report 98 self-supporting churches, -2,255 communicants, of whom 417 were added during the year and 7,420 -adherents. These churches carry on 45 parochial schools with 771 -pupils. It was this district with regard to which much that has been -written in previous chapters of this book had reference and here are -some of the oldest of the Christian communities. - -A summary of the missions of the Northern Presbyterian Church in -Korea shows that she is solely responsible for six million seven -hundred thousand people and in carrying out this work she has one -embryo theological seminary, one college, three academies, three -hundred thirty-nine primary schools for girls and boys, and here we -are speaking rather of teachers and scholars than of buildings and -equipment. - -They have 619 self-supporting churches, carrying on meetings in 767 -places, have enrolled 15,079 communicants, of whom 3,421 were admitted -last year, giving a total of adherents of 59,787. (The others, making -about eighty thousand, belong to the other Presbyterian Church.) The -Southern Presbyterian Church has six hospitals and asks for two more at -once and an immediate reinforcement of missionaries. - -As has been said, all the different missions of the Presbyterians -working in Korea form one united native church of Jesus and work -in every way as one mission, having a Council of Missions meeting -annually. With the consent of the governing bodies of these missions -an advance was made in 1907, when a Presbytery was organized to take -oversight of all the Presbyterian churches and was constituted with -Dr. S. A. Moffett in the chair at the city of Pyeng Yang on the -seventeenth of September, 1907. He writes, “The Presbytery had as -its representatives elders from thirty-six fully organized churches, -at least two other churches with elders not being represented. The -Presbytery then elected its officers and as its first work began -the examination of the seven men who had finished the theological -course of five years and proceeded to their ordination. At the night -meeting, in a very impressive service, the seven men were ordained. The -Presbytery consisted, after the ordination, of these men, of thirty-two -foreign missionaries and forty Korean ministers and elders. It has -ecclesiastical jurisdiction over a church with 17,890 communicants, -21,482 catechumens, 38 fully organized churches, 984 churches not fully -organized, adherents numbering 69,098, and day schools 402 with 8,611 -pupils. This church contributed last year for all purposes $47,113.50. - -The ordained men were appointed as pastors or copastors over groups of -churches except two, one of whom was called by the Central Church of -Pyeng Yang, and one was sent as a missionary to Quel Part, the whole -church to provide the money to send with him one or more helpers. Thus -the infant church, needing sorely more helpers at home, sends its first -foreign missionary abroad. - -The Methodist Church has centered its work for North Pyeng An in the -city of Yeng Byen and has divided it into six circuits. The territory -is about three hundred miles long by one hundred fifty wide and has a -population of about eight hundred thousand, and of these at least three -hundred thousand are the Methodist allotment. - -There are at the present time 551 members with 405 seekers. They have -nine primary schools with 185 pupils and for the care of all this work -only one man and his wife have been assigned. - -The whole allotment, then, according to division of territory, of -the Methodist mission in Korea is about three million people to be -reached. There are several hospitals and dispensaries but not enough. -The Methodist Churches North and South have united along educational -lines in establishing the Biblical Institute of Korea for theological -instruction. The Northern Church unites with the Presbyterian in Pyeng -Yang in college and academic work, and it has established a college at -Seoul and has a large number of primary schools that center in a normal -institute meeting annually at the capital. - -In the development of her evangelistic work there are 23,455 members -and probationers, 16,158 seekers and 113 schools with 4,267 pupils. - -The Southern Methodist mission have already been frequently -referred to but their work at Song Do and Won Son has not yet been -mentioned, because it has been the desire to speak of the work of -all denominations as far as possible together, to show the force and -the strength of the whole church of Christ in these sections where -more than one mission was at work. But, as has already been said, the -Southern Methodists have a compact piece of territory, triangular in -shape, with Song Do, Seoul and Won Son at each apex, and Seoul being -the only place where they have work with other missions, Won Son and -Song Do have not yet been mentioned. - -Song Do was the objective point of this mission at the start and there -they contemplate having their largest plant. There are two married men -and one single man for evangelistic work and two clergymen, one of -whom is a Korean gentleman educated in America, for their educational -institutions, and two doctors and three single ladies. They intend to -make this city the seat of large educational institutions for girls -and boys. They have in Song Do at present in their advanced school one -hundred and fifty students. At Won Son, the most northeasterly point of -their territory, they have two evangelistic workers, one educational, -one medical worker and three single ladies. They have here one city -church with a large number of country churches, a day school for boys, -a boarding school for girls and a dispensary. The last statistics of -the mission show 181 organizations with 89 churches or chapels, and -4,998 members, who gave last year $2,380.26. - -The English Society for the Propagation of the Gospel has already -been mentioned. Besides their work in Seoul they have evangelistic -and medical missions at Chemulpo and Kang Wha and a substation at Su -Won. Their workers are fine, earnest and efficient people and we only -regret that they are so few and that we have not been able to get their -statistics in time for these chapters. We hope that although our forms -of worship are so different they and we may at no distant date be able -to enter into the same union in which we believe every true church of -our blessed Lord must come. - -A few incidents have been related to show the attitude and -characteristics of the native Christians, and the manner in which the -gospel is being carried among the Koreans. One point which is very -marked is that they consider the work their own. They do not depend -on missionaries or leaders alone to preach and spread it abroad, but -each man, woman and child feels that it is his or her business as far -as possible to “pass on the Word.” While some of these people are -ignorant, some are well educated and some are brilliant young men -who have refused various inducements to accept high positions in the -political and mercantile world and who are devoting their best strength -and much or all of their time at tremendous sacrifice to serve their -Saviour. - -The attitude of the Christians everywhere is that of joy and triumph. -Purified in the cleansing fires of the Holy Spirit during the great -revivals of a year ago, they are going forward with new enthusiasm, -devotion, consecration, aroused faith, as one man, to win and save -all their countrymen. The missionaries, too, were never so much one -in heart, thought and action, never so fully aroused and alert, never -so full of assurance and gratitude. Not a man or woman but thanks God -that they are privileged to live at this day and work with Him in this -place and see the glorious things that He is doing. Not one but feels -certain God has far greater things in store in the future than in the -past. Not one but believes more than ever in the power of prayer, but -believes that through prayer Korea may be, shall be won for Christ in -the near future. Pulses are quickening, blood is tingling with the -wonder and the glory of it and we ask ourselves how it is that we, _we_ -are permitted to see and hear these things. “For the wilderness and the -solitary place shall be glad for them and the desert shall rejoice and -blossom as the rose.” - -In the days of Moses God led His people out of Egypt and through the -desert with a series of awful judgments and wonderful miracles, and -established them in Canaan, under His own divine laws, as an object -lesson to the age of His mighty power and of His ideal of a nation, -a symbol and example to His Church. And it looks altogether possible -and probable that now, when faith seems to be growing cold, when -sceptics are so openly questioning the power of God’s pure Gospel, He -is intending to use one of the weakest and most despised of the peoples -to illustrate what the Gospel pure and simple can do to evangelize a -whole nation. One of the men of the New Theology asked me anxiously -whether we “were teaching the Koreans a theology that would soon -need revising.” Thank God the theology the Koreans are being taught -is not man made or man revised. Thank God He is vindicating the “old -time religion,” the old time theology, the old time Bible, as good -enough for Korea, powerful to the pulling down of heathen strongholds, -powerful to change wicked men into good men, heathen communities into -righteous, pure and good ones. Unto Higher Critics--a stumbling block, -unto liberal New Theologians--foolishness, but to those who take Him -simply as little children and His Word--the power of God and the wisdom -of God unto salvation, because the foolishness of God is wiser than -men, the weakness of God is stronger than men, and He is choosing the -foolish things of the world to confound the wise; He is choosing the -weak things of the world to confound the things that are mighty, and He -is saying to the men who stand as the Jews and Greeks of our Western -Churches, “Here is base, despised Korea. Behold what the old Bible, the -old Gospel, with the teaching of the Spirit, received and believed, can -do for her.” - -It is in this way the finger of God is pointing, it is in this way He -is leading, and we are following after, if we may apprehend that for -which we were apprehended by Christ Jesus; reaching forth, we press -toward the mark _for the prize of the high calling of God for the whole -nation of Korea_ in Christ Jesus.[15] - -[15] All the facts and statistics given in this chapter are taken -from “The Call of Korea,” by H. G. Underwood, “The Korea Field,” and -personal letters, and recollections and Mission Official Reports. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - - Pentecostal Blessing--Special Meetings--Prayer - Answered--Confession of Sin--Revival in Schools--Great - Meetings--Bible Study--Effects of Blessings--Transforming - Power--Holy Spirit Revival--Comparative Statement of - Growth--Features of the Great Work--Union of Christians in - Korea. - - -The story of “How the Spirit Came to Korea” reads more like an extract -from the Acts of the Apostles than an account of what could have -happened in our modern matter-of-fact world. More than twenty-four -years ago mission work was begun in this country, but before we relate -that story of first beginnings, let us turn to the last page and look a -little, as best we may at a distance, and see how God had been crowning -and perfecting His work of grace there. - -It seems to the writer, in looking back over the history of events for -beginnings and causes, that the beginning as far as can be told was at -the conference for prayer and consecration held by all the American -missionaries of both Methodist and Presbyterian denominations in Seoul, -August, 1904. There had then come upon all present, unexpectedly, -overwhelmingly, a powerful impulse toward closer fellowship and entire -union in work, and the conviction that the native Church in Korea ought -emphatically to be one. Men were swept away with an irresistible tide -of enthusiasm. No one wished or attempted to resist the mighty movement -of the Spirit. All who were present testified to the blessed sense of -the presence of the Spirit of Love. Hearts glowed; brother drew nearer -to brother; misunderstandings, differences, divergencies of method, of -creed, seemed trifling and insignificant; difficulties vanished away or -were brushed aside; and they voted unanimously for a Council of Union -of all the missions working in Korea, and for a United Native Church of -Christ. - -It was a blessed experience, but, as might have been expected, the -powers of evil would never quietly submit without interference to a -measure so calculated for their overthrow, so in keeping with the -Lord’s will, and there forthwith sprang up in the minds of a few, -difficulties, doubts, mistrusts and hindrances. Nevertheless, a similar -meeting was held in August, 1905. A Union Council was then regularly -organized with officers and rules. Plans were made and various -committees formed to forward and perfect the organization of one United -Native Church of Christ in the near future. Again one Spirit seemed to -fill all hearts. One impulse of holy love to our Lord and to each other -seemed to move us all to one supreme consummation--obedience to the -dying command of the Master, and we all felt that He would follow this -with still greater blessings. - -In the fall of that same year, Dr. Hardie and other missionaries of Won -San received a baptism of the Holy Spirit with power, characterized by -a deep and searching sense of sin and God’s awful holiness and majesty. -This experience was extended to the native Christians as well, and -with deep repentance came a new feeling of peace and a greater zeal -and consecration than ever before. To the other mission stations and -communities of native Christians the news of this came, as well as -thrilling accounts of what God was doing in Wales, in India and in -other parts of the world, and a great longing filled all souls. “Bless -me, even me, also, oh, my Father,” was the continued cry of their -longing hearts. - -Dr. Hardie came to Seoul and held meetings with some of the native -Christians and the missionaries. Many felt that they had received a -blessing, but there was no very marked or general revival. - -At the annual meeting of our Mission, 1905, there was one afternoon -set apart for a special meeting of the women missionaries for mutual -conference as to the best means of bringing Koreans and themselves into -closer and fuller walk with God, and to pray for renewed consecration. -It was a solemn heart-searching time. They seemed to realize that -all their efforts and prayers and desires had hitherto been but -half-hearted compared with what they should have been, and ere they -parted, they, on their knees, joined in a mutual promise to pray by -name every day for the quickening and full sanctification of each -other. It is not possible to put into words the deep impression made -on the minds of most of the women present by the Holy Spirit, in that -little meeting. - -Not long after, a little printed pledge to pray daily for the -outpouring of the Spirit on the Korea missionaries, on the native -Christians and on the heathen communities, was sent by one of the -Southern Presbyterians to each missionary in Korea to be signed and -kept if he wished. It was simply putting into definite form the leading -of the Spirit in all our hearts, a united cry, “Bless me, even me, -also, oh, my Father.” It was the cry heard in our little circles of -prayer. It was the continued petition of our closets, the principal -thought and desire filling our conscious moments. The natives were -moved as one man with us. Some of the little churches held nightly -meetings of prayer for this blessing. For months, even years, some had -been holding these meetings before the foreigners began. - -The women in some of the churches met regularly to pray for this. It -was the chief theme of their requests at all their services. How they -prayed in secret none but God knows, but each man and woman knew how he -or she was led to besiege the throne, with a spirit that would not be -denied, that with fasting and strong crying, continued in supplication -before God. It was prayer divinely led, for even as the blessing was -demanded, as it were, the weak flesh wondered how such large things as -we were irresistibly impelled to ask could possibly be expected. We -prayed that there should be Pentecostal outpourings; that thousands -should turn to Christ; that the great class of the nobility, (as yet -untouched), so bound down by caste, by custom and social usage, by -political requirements and family duties and bonds, should come into -the kingdom; that the church should be spiritualized; that Koreans, -intellectually converted, should realize the hideousness of sin; and -that we, natives and foreigners, might “comprehend with all saints what -is the height and depth and breadth and length and to know the love of -Christ that passeth knowledge and be filled with all the fulness of -God.” - -These were the prayers that had been unitedly offered by all the -missions at the conferences held every year since August, 1904, at the -churches, native and foreign, at family worship, in little neighborhood -prayer-meetings, in the closet and as they walked the streets or went -about their work. - -As has been said, the first blessings had fallen upon Won San. The -next report of which I have note is from Mokpo, where Mr. Gerdine held -services in October, 1906, twice a day for a week, from whence the -report came, saying: - -“The word was like a scalpel, laying bare the secret sins and hidden -cancers of the soul. Strong men wept like children, confessing their -sins, and as they realized the Saviour’s forgiveness and peace with -God, their faces shone and the church rang with hymns of triumph. Men -stood six deep waiting to testify of blessing received, sins forgiven, -differences healed, victory over self, and baptism of the Spirit. From -the beginning the spirit of _prayer_, _intercession_ and _confession_ -was poured out in a remarkable way.” - -In August, 1906, a Bible and prayer conference was held at Pyeng Yang, -by the missionaries of that station, for the deepening of their own -spiritual life. Dr. Hardie, of Won San, was present and “helped them -greatly,” and Mr. Lee writes that there was born in their hearts the -desire that God would take complete control of their lives and use -them mightily in His service. Immediately after this, at Seoul, during -the Annual Meeting of the Presbyterian missionaries, many of them -received much blessing and aid in meeting Dr. Howard Agnew Johnson, -who had already been greatly used in helping the Seoul missionaries. -He went to Pyeng Yang later and stirred up fervent desire in the -hearts of native Christians by telling them of the wonderful blessing -poured into India, “and from that time natives and missionaries were -praying for the blessing, till it came,” says Mr. Lee. To one looking -back over the whole history of events, it had already begun. All the -previous fall and winter we had seen that something wonderful was -happening. A new spirit was abroad. There was a shaking and rustling -among the dry bones. Christians were not only praying but working. -Even those who had never done much hitherto, would go out into the -country and spend several days or even weeks at a time, preaching to -unbelievers and teaching Christians, the letters that came from other -missions and other stations in all parts of Korea to the capital as -booksellers and native helpers sent in their reports, all were of -the same nature; “Not enough books, tracts and hymn books for those -who want to buy,”--“The Bibles all gone. Unpublished new edition -all sold in advance,”--“Churches and chapels crowded,”--“Inquirers -multiplying,”--“Numbers of baptized and newly enrolled -catechumens far in advance of any previous time,”--“Missionaries -over-worked,”--“Hospitals paying their own running expenses better than -ever before,”--“Many new groups formed,” till our hearts thrilled and -we felt “this is surely the Lord’s doing and it is marvellous.” God was -answering the prayers of His people. - -In our churches the sight of the increasing crowds every Sunday deeply -stirred us. To see the throngs which not only filled to suffocation -the little buildings but stood crowding the windows and doors, was to -us who had seen the first feeble timid beginnings of a little handful -of men and women, beyond power of description, glorious and thrilling. -We knew that this eager, anxious throng were there because _Jesus of -Nazareth was passing by_. At every service Christians came to the -missionaries bringing those who had made their decision for Christ; -from one or two to whole families. Idols were cast away and Christ was -chosen. We could hear the Master’s stately steppings and we felt that -the place whereon we stood was holy ground. - -In Pyeng Yang, fervent prayer was continually offered for a special -manifestation of God’s power, by natives and missionaries in special -daily meetings as well as in private. Just before Christmas special -noon meetings were held by the missionaries for the Men’s Bible -Training Class. These men from the country, said by Mr. Swallen, who -had charge of the enrolment, to number about one thousand, had come up -for the winter Bible class, from many villages and distant districts. -Some had walked many miles, most of them bringing their supplies of -rice with them. On January 6th, evening meetings for the Class and the -people of the city began in the large Central Church which holds about -fifteen hundred. As it would have been much too small for an audience -of both sexes, it was arranged for the men only to meet in this -building and the women were asked to meet separately in four different -places, and the schoolboys in the Academy chapel. The Central Church -was full of men every night. The meetings grew in power until Saturday, -which was best day of the whole week. Sunday evening the expected -blessing was withheld, but on Monday night the wonderful manifestation -of God’s Presence came. - -It was marked, as had been those in Won San and Mokpo, by “a spirit -of prayer,” conviction of sin, confession and intercession. Awful and -overwhelming conviction of sin was its most marked feature. Men wept, -groaned, beat their breasts, falling to the ground and writhing in -agony. Mr. Lee, speaking of one of those who confessed said, “In a -broken voice he began to pray and such a prayer I never heard before. -We had a vision of a human heart laid bare before its God. As he -prayed, he wept. In fact he could hardly control himself, and as he -wept, the audience wept with him. We all felt as if we were in the -presence of the living God.” - -Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday evenings, the same wonderful -manifestations, the same overwhelming sense of the immediate presence -of the awful glory of God. Mr. Hunt says of them, “Two or three most -earnest prayers were followed by such an outpouring of the Spirit -as I had never before witnessed--great strong men, half a dozen at -a time, pleading for forgiveness and confessing their sins in great -agony of spirit. From that day on there was not a day without some new -proof of His presence with us individually and collectively. There was -public confession of sin that brought agonized groans from the entire -congregation. There were private confessions to God which brought -strong men to tears. There were similar confessions to men, accompanied -by restoration or other real mending of wrong. It was a time of praying -such as we had never known before. The prayer meetings were crowded. -The meetings held each evening in the big church were crowded, men only -being admitted. Whole companies were reduced to tears. In the boys’ -schools the work spread and to those at first most sceptical came the -most bitter suffering. Between these schools had sprung up some bitter -rivalry. By reason of the Spirit’s work among them, love and an earnest -spirit of intercession has taken its place.” - -On the Wednesday, Thursday and Friday the same manifestations of power -were felt in the advanced school for girls and women, and at the -Central Church Boys’ School, which had been experienced in the men’s -meetings. On Thursday the Spirit fell on the primary school for girls. -Mrs. Bernheisel went down to the girls’ school in the city and found -the Spirit there also; she wrote, “The Spirit of God literally fell on -us, and we couldn’t help but weep and confess our sins.” Saturday night -the power fell upon the women of the church. - -“All through the class, the women had been meeting separately,” says -Mr. Lee, “but there had been no special manifestation among them, and -it was decided to hold special meetings for them also in the Central -Church on the Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings following. On -Saturday night the power was felt and the women agonized over their -sins and confessed as the others had done, and on Monday and Tuesday -evenings the meetings for women being continued, God’s mighty power -continued to be manifested. So great was the strain that one of the -women became unconscious.” - -Mrs. Baird writes that “it was a matter of regret to all that the Pyeng -Yang college and academy was not in session at the time of the gracious -visitations described by Mr. Lee. Several of the resident students -were led through a very wonderful experience, and on all sides the -earnest hope was expressed and the prayer offered that the beginning -of the spring term might witness another wonderful manifestation of -God’s power and that not one of the students might be left unvisited.” -Several days before the opening of the school, “informal prayer -meetings, attended as well by several of the Korean members of the -school faculty were held in the Principal’s study. One morning, feeling -burdened, he sought out his fellow (missionary) worker who had been -much exercised in prayer and the two knelt together and prayed for the -descent of the Spirit upon the school. It was at that hour that the -storm broke in the study. Cries and sobs of anguish filled not only the -room but the whole house.” - -For two wonderful weeks the work went on among the boys, with whom -meetings were held every day at four. “No attempt was made to lead -these meetings. Indeed, leadership would have been impossible. All -were prostrate on their faces and all alike except those who had -already received a blessing were in an agony of repentance. Sometimes -they beat their foreheads and heads against the floor, sometimes they -literally writhed in anguish,--then when there seemed no more power -of resistance left they would spring to their feet and with terrible -sobs and crying pour out their confessions. No human power could have -dragged these confessions to light.” - -At the beginning of the school term the usual curriculum was laid -aside, the first week was devoted to Bible study and prayer, reserving -the evenings for devotional services with the whole school. On the -first evening one young man after another sprang to his feet and -testified to a sense of pardon, peace and joy. But these were only a -small part of the three hundred young men and boys present, and many -remained “cold and lumpish as ice.” The battle was between our God -and His forces on one hand and all the hosts of Satan on the other. -Students who had received a blessing spent hours of every day in prayer -and _some spent whole nights on their faces before God_. - -At the meeting of the second evening, before ever the leader took his -place, the tide of prayer began rising and though three young men arose -one after another and attempted to lead in prayer, their voices were -not heard in the tumult of intercessory supplication that broke out. As -prayer continued, the building began to resound with groans and cries. -Many fell forward on their faces on the floor. - -At this meeting and two that followed it was noted that while most -of the Presbyterian students had been reached, the body of Methodist -students was still largely untouched. The local Methodist preacher, an -unusually able man _had from the first been opposed to union in the -school or in any other way, and had used his influence against it_. -He had longed for a blessing on his people and when it fell first on -the Presbyterians was jealous and displeased, and it was feared in -several quarters that he was using his influence both in the pulpit -and the class room to throw discredit on the movement. Special prayer -was therefore made for him by native and foreign members of both -denominations. On Friday evening the break in the Methodist ranks -began. One young man after another, members of a band who had agreed -together that they would stand out against the prevailing influences, -gave up all pretence of resistance and cast themselves on the Lord for -mercy. At midnight there were as many as fifty risen to their feet -awaiting their turn to confess their sins. During the evening many -threw themselves on their knees before the preacher and confessed that -they had done wrong in yielding to his influence. Conviction seized -upon him and at the close of the meeting this proud man was weeping -in the arms of the missionaries and sobbing out penitent confessions -of coldness, wilfulness and jealousies. During the remaining evenings -there was little disposition to resist the Holy Spirit. Then the Lord -began pouring out His blessings upon the Methodist congregations in the -city and the same wonderful manifestations were exhibited here that had -been seen elsewhere. - -Mr. McCune said of the men’s meetings. “The room full of men was filled -with voices lifted to God in prayer. I am sure that most of the men -in the room were praying aloud. Some were crying and pleading God’s -forgiveness for certain sins which they named to Him in prayer. All -were pleading for the infilling of the Holy Ghost. Although there were -so many voices there was no confusion at all. It was all a subdued -perfect harmony. I cannot explain it with words.” - -“We missionaries had our union meetings with the Methodists one week -before the class began. They were a source of the richest blessing to -all of us and when we were closing Thursday evening it being suggested -that we continue the meetings for the next week or so at noontime, we -decided to do so. Daily we have been waiting there and praying for the -Holy Spirit. _We have no leader for the meeting. Each one who enters -the room quietly kneels down and as he is led prays._” - -“We find that these meetings of ours are blessed _just in proportion -as we spend the whole time from first to last on our knees in prayer -or proffering requests for_ prayer or thanksgiving, _precluding much -conversation or discussion_, even upon the progress or incidents of the -revival.” - -The blessing fell on both Methodists and Presbyterians, on missionaries -and natives. Mr. Noble, of the M. E. Church of Pyeng Yang says, “We are -having the most wonderful manifestations of the outpouring of the Holy -Spirit on the native churches that I have ever seen or heard. Perhaps -there has been no greater demonstration of Divine power since the -Apostles’ days. At every meeting the slain of the Lord are laid out all -over the church, men and women are stricken down and become unconscious -under the power of conviction. The whole city is mourning as people -mourn for their dead. Many spend whole nights in their homes agonizing -in prayer, either for their own pardon or in behalf of others. The -people break out in spontaneous prayer. Hundreds of voices fill the -church with a murmur that has no more discord than would the notes from -so many instruments of music.” - -From Syen Chun Miss Samuels writes of the coming of the Spirit in -power in January. Mr. Clark wrote from Seoul, “During the past month, -February, the most marvellous working of the Holy Spirit in the hearts -of Christians in this city has been the subject of daily conversation. -Revival meetings have been in progress in all the churches. I am -reminded of the history which records the wonderful results that -followed the preachings of Whitfield and Wesley.” - -So the power spread like wildfire from station to station and from -little country group to group, at the country classes and among both -Methodists and Presbyterians, time and space failing here to give -extracts from all the thrilling reports that were sent. - -And now what were the results of this wonderful revival? Was it a mere -wave of emotionalism? Korea had known Christianity for many years but -never before had anything been seen like this. - -What results can it show as a seal to its divine origin? “By their -fruits ye shall know them,” said our Lord. “Men do not gather grapes of -thorns or figs of thistles.” Satan does not cast out Satan, and here on -all sides we see following these revivals sinners converted, those who -had done wrong making confession and restitution of money and goods, -the churches crowded to overflowing with inquirers and new believers, -the coffers of the Lord’s treasury filled, and men of different -denominations lovingly joining hands, putting away old jealousies, -forwarding the Lord’s kingdom shoulder to shoulder. Let me quote again -a few particular instances mentioned by men working in different -denominations in various parts of the field. - -Mr. J. Z. Moore, writing to “The Korea Field,” says, “Many incidents -could be told but two must suffice. A young man who had been a -Christian for some time received a strange new fire into his life and -went to his parents, who were not Christians, pleading with them in -tears. They gave up keeping the saloon they had had for twenty years -and are now earnest followers of Christ. In two large towns about -a half mile apart there were two quite strong groups. Ever since I -have had the work I have been trying to get them to unite and build a -church, but a church quarrel has always frustrated not only our plans -for the church but the Lord’s work in that section as well. The revival -came and there was great confession in agony and tears, of pride, -jealousy and hatred, and now they are united in the building of a large -tile-roofed church. Besides the Bible study classes, nearly every one -of the larger churches and some of the small ones have had revival -services lasting from one to three weeks. The native preachers having -taken part in the Pyeng Yang revival took the lead in this work, _which -has resulted in transforming churches all over the circuit_. These -meetings were times of heart-searching prayer, confession of sin and -restoration and straightening up of the past in so far as was possible. -This was followed by a real sense of sins forgiven, joy in the -assurance of the new birth and baptism of the Holy Spirit in cleansing -and power for service.” - -“These revivals,” he continued, “have taught me two things. First, -the Korean is at heart and in all fundamental things at one with his -brother of the West. In the second place these revivals have taught -me _that in the matter of making all life religious, in prayer and -in a simple childlike trust the East not only has many things but -profound things to teach the West_ and until we learn those things -we will not know the full-orbed Gospel of Christ. Best of all,” he -adds, “this revival has written another unanswerable chapter of -Christian evidences. The old gospel of the cross and the blood and -the resurrection now has become a free, full and perfect salvation to -multitudes and has taken literally hundreds of lazy, shiftless and -purposeless Koreans and turned them into very dynamos of evangelistic -power. Not only this, but it is proven that Christianity does satisfy -the spiritual needs and hunger of the people.” - -Mr. Clark writes from Seoul: “The most conspicuous thing, in the whole -church life for the year was the great Holy Spirit revival in February. -The church was shaken as never before and, purged as by fire, now under -the guidance of the Spirit they are reaching out for others. The three -city congregations were never so much one in thought as now. It has -been a beautiful year of growing together.” - -Mr. Cram writes from Song Do: “I thank God that His mighty transforming -power is realized by the Korean heart in definite expression.” - -Mr. McCune writes: “We have not been counting the new believers as -we did in previous years. There will surely be in all four churches, -Methodists and Presbyterian, in Pyeng Yang, at the close of the -meetings not less than two thousand new believers, if we may judge from -the way they seem to be coming now.” - -Mr. Gerdine, of the Southern Methodist Mission, wrote, September, 1906, -“The past year has been one of large increase in numbers throughout the -church in Korea. It is probable that thirty thousand new believers have -come in during that time.[16] Our own church has shared in the general -prosperity and advancement. This is true not only of the district as a -whole but each circuit will show a good increase over last year. Here -is a comparative statement of growth: - -[16] This refers to the whole Church, the 2000 above referred to being -in Pyeng Yang alone. - - October - 1905 1906 - Number of societies 46 129 - Adult baptisms 201 606 - Total membership 759 1227 - Probationers 457 1694 - Applicants 1712 - Total number on rolls 1216 4623 - - In 1907 there was an increase in membership of 756, in - probationers of 1331, and there were forty-seven new - churches. - -This is the growth in one church after the revival spirit had fallen -upon many of its leaders in Won San and it has not been less wonderful -in many of the others.” - -Mr. J. Z. Moore says there has been a gain of at least one third in -membership over the last year, (in many churches it has been 50 per -cent). - -Mrs. Baird says, “The night schools in the city were shaken. There were -meetings in all the churches for the unconverted and between twelve -hundred and two thousand came out at that time for Christ among the -Presbyterians in Pyeng Yang alone. At the meetings of the missionaries -there were sacred times, all hearts melted in a wonderful solvent of -love. Work spreads to the country classes and churches like holy fire.” - -The money given by the churches of the Presbyterian missions nearly -doubled the amount contributed the previous year. - -Pledges for a certain number of days of evangelistic work have become -common and at one of the Bible classes held in Seoul, men promised in -addition to other Christian work and precious pledges, an average of -seventeen days apiece for the coming year,--enough in all to make one -man’s entire time for six years, and the rule is that these pledges are -more than kept, most of the people exceeding the time promised. - -These are simply a few of the results of this great work of God in -Korea. In every station and village, in large cities and country -districts, the fruits are being gathered. Let those who are permitted a -share in it thank God. - -Before finishing this very incomplete review, there are several -features of it which should be noted. - -1st. It was preceded, as has been noted, for a period of three or more -years, by a constantly increasing desire and fervent united prayer of -missionaries and natives--desire and prayer undoubtedly inspired by Him -who intended to give--for the Gift of the Spirit. - -2d. It simply fell upon the people waiting before God in insistent, -believing prayer, without having been worked up in any way by exciting -appeals to emotion. - -3d. It came to a people who, during a knowledge of Christianity of -some twenty odd years, have never had anything of the kind in their -religious life, and have never shown signs of great excitability in -their deepest Christian experiences. - -4th. It was marked, everywhere the same, by a realization of the awful -blackness of sin, consequent upon an acute sense of the immediate -Presence of the terrible Majesty of the Most High and followed by -agonizing repentance, confession and restitution. - -5th. Wonder and regret have been expressed at the kind of sins -confessed by some of these native Christian people. It must be -remembered that they were Christians who had come out of heathenism -with no previous Christian training and breeding, that they were -living surrounded by heathenism, but poorly instructed, and some of -them, no doubt, had never been more than intellectually converted. - -It must be remembered also that the Apostle Paul addressed admonitions -to early Christians, whom he evidently considered real Christians, -who had had the benefit of his inspired teaching and who had seen the -miracles, and perhaps been present at Pentecostal outpourings, who were -guilty of the darkest sins on the calendar. - -Again, is it not a fact that when we come to God or our brother and -confess in a general indefinite sort of way to general indefinite sort -of sins, when nothing in particular seems to us to be an intolerable -burden of sin, there is little genuine repentance, only a half -pleasurable sentimental feeling of regret that we are not as perfect -as we could wish? This repentance means _nothing_. When men confess -particular sins they are really repentant. And again, one of our most -well known pastors in a large city said with deep emphasis, when this -wonder was expressed, that were the Spirit of God to come with the same -power to our American churches, the revelations of depths of sin would -not be one whit less appalling than those in Korea. - -It is, however, greatly to be deprecated that those who have heard -these confessions should make them a subject of idle gossip. They -belong only to the confessor and his God and, perchance, the one who -was wronged. It seems to the writer an awful thing to meddle in such a -matter, sacred to the Holy Ghost. - -6th. And this seems to the writer an intensely significant fact. This -revival was preceded, accompanied and followed by a burning desire on -the part of the great majority of all Christians of every denomination -and nationality in the country, for union, for one Church of Christ -in Korea, an uncontrollable, Heaven-inspired conviction that there -in Korea, then, at once, if possible, the Lord’s last prayer while -on earth for His Church must be fulfilled, and that we must be one -in effort, in aim, in name, as we were already in heart, that the -differences and old worn-out historical divisions of the Occident must -not be foisted upon the Orient, that in the words of the devoted Bishop -Harris, we missionaries had not gone across the Pacific to establish a -Methodist or a Presbyterian church, but to advance the kingdom of the -Master, that native Christians were not converted to Presbyterianism, -Methodism or any other sect but to the Lord Jesus. This was the spirit -which preceded and followed the revival and which in Pyeng Yang, where -the power was felt by the greatest number of people and perhaps in the -most overwhelming way, seemed more general than elsewhere, and right -here I feel impelled to quote the words of Mrs. Baird in regard to the -daily prayer-meeting of the missionaries alone of both denominations. - -“_All denominational lines seem wiped out forever and we wonder that we -could ever have attached importance to them or have allowed ourselves -to be cramped by them._” - -But everywhere small jealousies have to a great extent been put aside -and a beautiful spirit of mutual love and generosity prevails. - -Thus hath God wrought. He has made bare His mighty arm and shown His -mercy to one of the weakest and most despised of the peoples, for that -is His will and way. He made His ways known unto Moses, a poor shepherd -of a despised race, His acts unto the children of Israel, a nation -of slaves, and He has glorified His Holy Name in little, enslaved, -despised Korea. “For ye see your calling, brethren, how that not many -wise men after the flesh, not many mighty, not many noble, are called: -but God hath chosen the foolish things of the world to confound the -wise; and God hath chosen the weak things of the world to confound the -things which are mighty; and base things of the world, and things which -are despised, hath God chosen, yea, and things which are not, to bring -to nought things that are: that no flesh should glory in His presence.” - - -THE END. - - -[Transcriber's Note: - -Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation are as in the original.] - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Fifteen Years Among the Top-Knots, by -L. H. 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H. 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H. Underwood - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Fifteen Years Among the Top-Knots - Life in Korea - -Author: L. H. Underwood - -Release Date: December 4, 2015 [EBook #50609] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIFTEEN YEARS AMONG THE TOP-KNOTS *** - - - - -Produced by David Edwards, Wayne Hammond, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" -alt="" /></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="frontis" src="images/frontis.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">SENTINEL GATE AT PALACE. <i>Frontispiece</i></p> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_i">i</span></div> - -<h1> -FIFTEEN YEARS<br /> - -<i>AMONG</i><br /> - -THE TOP-KNOTS<br /> - -<span class="medium"><i>OR</i></span><br /> - -<i>LIFE IN KOREA</i><br /> - -<span class="medium"><i>By</i></span><br /> - -<span class="large">L. H. UNDERWOOD, M.D.</span><br /> - -<span class="small"><i>With Introduction<br /> -by</i><br /> - -<span class="smcap">Frank F. Ellinwood</span>, D.D., LL.D.<br /> - -<span class="smcap">Second Edition<br /> -Revised and Enlarged</span></span><br /> -<br /> -<img src="images/pi.jpg" -alt="" /> -<br /> -<span class="medium">YOUNG PEOPLE’S MISSIONARY MOVEMENT<br /> -OF THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA<br /> -NEW YORK</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_ii">ii</span></h1> - -<p class="copy table"> -Copyright, 1904,<br /> -<span class="smcap">By American Tract Society</span>.<br /> -<br /> -Copyright, 1908,<br /> -<span class="smcap">By American Tract Society</span>.<br /> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_iii">iii</span></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="table center"> -THIS LITTLE VOLUME<br /> -IS GRATEFULLY DEDICATED TO<br /> -<br /> -<span class="large">MY HUSBAND</span><br /> -<br /> -IN MEMORY OF<br /> -FIFTEEN HAPPIEST YEARS<br /> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_iv">iv</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">v</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="INTRODUCTION">INTRODUCTION</h2> - -<p>It may be said at once, that Mrs. Underwood’s narrative -of her experience of “Fifteen Years Among the Top-Knots” -constitutes a book of no ordinary interest. There -is no danger that any reader having even a moderate -sympathy with the work of missions in the far East will -be disappointed in the perusal. The writer does not -undertake to give a comprehensive account of missions -in Korea, or even of the one mission which she represents, -but only of the things which she has seen and experienced.</p> - -<p>There is something naive and attractive in the way in -which she takes her readers into her confidence while she -tells her story, as trustfully as if she were only writing -to a few relatives and friends. Necessarily she deals very -largely with her own work, and that of her husband, as -of that she is best qualified to speak. Everywhere, however, -there are generous and appreciative references to -the heroic labors of associate missionaries. Nor does she -confine these tributes to members of her own mission. -Some of her highest encomiums are given to members of -other missions, who have laboured and died for the Gospel -and the cause of humanity in Korea.</p> - -<p>Mrs. Underwood, then Miss Lillias Horton, of Chicago, -went to Korea as a medical missionary in 1888. As a -Secretary of the Presbyterian Board, accustomed to visit -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">vi</span> -our candidates before appointment, I found her a bright -young girl of slight and graceful figure in one of the -Chicago hospitals, where she was adding to her medical -knowledge some practical experience as a trained nurse. -There was nothing of the consciousness of martyrdom in -her appearance, but quite the reverse, as with cheerful -countenance and manner she glided about in her white -uniform among the ward patients. It was evident that -she was looking forward with high satisfaction to the -work to which she had consecrated her life.</p> - -<p>The story of her arrival at Chemulpo, of her first -impressions of Korea, is best told in her own words. -The first arrival of a missionary on the field is always a -trying experience. The squalid appearance of the low -native huts, whose huddled groupings Mrs. Underwood -compares to low-lying beds of mushrooms, poorly clad -and dull-eyed fishermen and other peasantry, contrasting -so strongly with the brighter scenes of one’s home land, -are enough to fill any but the bravest with discouragement -and despair. But our narrator passed this trying ordeal -by reflecting that she was not a tourist in pursuit of entertainment, -but an ambassador of Christ, sent to heal the -bodies and enlighten the souls of the lowly and the suffering.</p> - -<p>As a young unmarried woman and quite alone, she -found a welcoming home with Dr. and Mrs. Heron, and -began at once a twofold work of mastering the language, -and of professional service at the hospital. Not long after -her arrival she was called to pay a visit to the queen, who -wished to secure her services as her physician. The -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">vii</span> -relation soon grew into a mutual friendship, and Mrs. -Underwood from that time till the assassination of the -unfortunate queen was her frequent visitor, and in many -respects her personal admirer. She does not hesitate to -express her appreciation of the queen, as a woman of -kind-hearted and generous impulses, high intellectual -capacity, and no ordinary diplomatic ability. Of stronger -mind and higher moral character than her royal husband, -she was his wise counsellor and the chief bulwark of his -precarious power.</p> - -<p>Though Mrs. Underwood’s book is of the nature of a -narrative, yet its smoothly running current is laden with -all kinds of general information respecting the character -and customs of the people, the condition of the country, -the native beliefs and superstitions, the social degradation, -the poverty and widespread ignorance of the masses. -The account of missionary work is given naturally, its -pros and cons set forth without special laudation on the -one hand, or critical misgiving on the other. It is simply -presented, and left to speak for itself, and it can scarcely -fail to carry to all minds a conviction of the genuineness -and marked success of the great work which our missionaries -in Korea are conducting.</p> - -<p>Mrs. Underwood’s marriage to Rev. H. G. Underwood, -who had already been four years in the country, is related -with simplicity and good sense, and the remarkable bridal -tour, though given more at length, is really a story not of -honeymoon experiences, but rather of arduous and heroic -missionary itineration. It was contrary to the advice -and against the strong remonstrances of their associates -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">viii</span> -and their friends in the U. S. legation that the young -couple set out in the early spring of 1889 for a pioneering -tour through Northern Korea.</p> - -<p>Fortunately for the whole work of our Protestant missions, -the most favorable impression had been made upon -the Korean Court and upon the people by the striking and -most valuable service which had been rendered by Dr. H. -N. Allen, our first medical missionary, and now U. S. -Minister in Korea. He had healed the wounds of some -distinguished Koreans, who had been nearly killed in a -midnight conflict between the Chinese and Japanese garrisons -at Seoul.</p> - -<p>Although there were strong prohibitory decrees against -the admission of foreigners in the interior, Mr. and Mrs. -Underwood ventured to presume upon the connivance of -the officials at their proposed journey to the far north. -Traveling as missionaries and without disguise, it was a -plucky undertaking for the young bride, since, so far as -known, she was the first foreign woman who had made -such a tour. The journey was a protracted one and -involved all kinds of hardship and privation. Nothing -worthy of a name of inn was to be found, but only some -larger huts in which travelers were packed away amid -every variety of filth and vermin.</p> - -<p>The curiosity of the people to see a foreign woman -was such that the mob everywhere scrupled not to punch -holes through the paper windows and doors to get a -peep. After having been borne all day in a chair, not -over roads, but through tortuous bridle paths, over -rocks and through sloughs, it was found well-nigh impossible -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">ix</span> -to rest at night. All sorts of noises early and -late added to their discomfort. As to food, the difficulty -of subsisting on such fare as the people could furnish may -be well imagined. They were not wholly free from the -fear of wild animals, for some districts through which -they passed were infested by tigers and leopards. But -their greatest danger was that of falling into the hands -of roaming bands of robbers. Mrs. Underwood’s account -of one experience of this kind will be read with thrilling -interest.</p> - -<p>Fortunately, Mr. Underwood had already made one or -two shorter tours through the country alone, and had -baptized a few converts here and there. The passports -also which he carried with him secured the favor of some -of the district magistrates, so that the two were not -exposed wholly to hostile influences.</p> - -<p>It is impossible in few words to do justice to the story -related in this interesting book, which was prepared by -Mrs. Underwood at the request of the American Tract -Society, or do anything more than commend in general -terms its various presentations. One of these relating -to the experiences of a severe cholera season, during -which missionaries, not only medical but also clerical, -remained faithfully at their posts, unmindful of the personal -risks and of the heat, filth and discomfort of an -unsanitary city in the most sickly months, in order to do -all in their power to save the lives and mitigate the -sufferings of the poor and despairing people. The -account is given with great simplicity, and without ostentatious -claims of heroism, and may be regarded as a true -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">x</span> -representation of the faithful service often rendered by -our missionaries in times of trial and great suffering.</p> - -<p>Mrs. Underwood’s book will be read with peculiar -interest at this time, when all attention is turned to the far -East and especially to Korea, which seems likely to be the -battleground in the war between Russia and Japan. The -position of the poor Koreans, government and people, is -calculated to elicit the sympathy of all Christians and all -philanthropists. Every one wonders what will be the -outcome for poor Korea. It is indeed a time for -earnest prayer that the God of nations will overrule all -current events for the best good of this beleaguered people -and for the advancement of Christ’s Kingdom.</p> - -<p class="author"> -<span class="smcap">F. F. Ellinwood.</span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">New York</span>, Feb. 20, 1904. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">xi</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="PREFACE">PREFACE</h2> - -<p>The chapters which are here given to the public are -simply reminiscent, a brief story of a few years of the -writer’s life in one of the most unique and interesting of -all the Eastern countries, among a people who are singularly -winning and lovable.</p> - -<p>I beg that in reading these pages it may be remembered -that this book makes no pretense whatever to being a text -or reference book on Korea, or in any respect a history of -Korean missions. The writer has simply strung together -a few events which have fallen under her own personal -observation during the last fifteen years. If more frequent -reference is made to the work carried on by my -husband and myself than to others, it is simply because it -is only with regard to that which has been woven into the -web of my own experience that I can speak with exactness -and authority. All it is hoped to accomplish is, that sufficient -insight into the customs and character of the people, -and their moral and political atmosphere, with the results, -opportunities and possible limitations of mission work, -may be given to induce the reader to study further, and -perchance to question what his relation to it all is.</p> - -<p>I must acknowledge my great indebtedness to Dr. -H. N. Allen’s chronological index, by which I have been -able to verify many dates. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xii">xii</span></p> - -<p>I am also indebted to the “Korean Repository,” and to -the “Life of Dr. James Hall,” for part of the story of the -events connected with his work in Pyeng Yang, both before -and after the war, and for the official report of the -trial of the queen’s murderers at Hiroshima. More than -all, I am obliged to my husband, by whose assistance I -have obtained from Koreans the particulars relating to the -Emeute of 1884, the Tonghaks, the Pusaings, the Independents, -and the Romanists. He has also given me many -of the anecdotes of native Christian life, and as we lived -it all out ourselves, this volume is as much his as mine.</p> - -<p class="author"> -<span class="smcap">Lillias H. Underwood.</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiii">xiii</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</h2> - -<table> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="tdr">PAGE</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>First Arrival—First Impressions—The City of Seoul—Korean -Houses—Mission Homes—Personnel of Mission -in 1888—Beginnings of Work—Difficulties in Attaining the -Language—Korean Religions—Palace Women—First Interview -with Palace Women—Entertainment Given in my -Honor by President of Foreign Office—The Interdict—Confidence -Exhibited by Government in Protestant Missionaries—The -“Baby Riots”—Babies Reported to Have Been Eaten -at Foreign Legations—Restoring Confidence—The Signal—First -Invitation to Palace</td> - <td class="tdrb">1</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Palaces—The Stone Dogs—The Fire God’s Defeat—The -Summer Pleasure House—Royal Reception Hall—Court -Dress of Noblemen—First Impression of the King—Appearance -of the Queen—The Queen’s Troubles—The -Queen’s Coup d’État—The Verb Endings—The Queen’s -Generosity—Stone Fight—Gifts—The Quaga—Poukhan—Its -Impregnability—Picturesque Surroundings of Seoul—Pioneer -Work—Progress of Work—The Queen’s Wedding -Gift—Our Wedding—Opposition to my Going to the Interior—My -Chair—The Chair Coolies</td> - <td class="tdrb">20</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>We Start on our Wedding Journey—Songdo—Guards at -our Gates—Crossing the Tai-tong—Difficulties in Finding an -Inn—Korean Launderings—An Old Man Seeks to be Rid of -Sin—Mob at an Inn—A Ruffian Bursts Open my Door—Fight -in the Inn Yard—Pat Defies the Crowd—Convenience -of Top-Knots—A Magistrate Refuses to Shelter Us—The -“Captain” to the Rescue—Pack-ponies—We Lay a Deep -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiv">xiv</span> -Scheme—Torch Bearers—A Mountain Hamlet—Tiger -Traps—Tigers—A Band of Thirty Conspire to Attack us—Guns -Used by Native Hunters—A Tiger Story</td> - <td class="tdrb">38</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Leaving Kangai—We Choose a Short Cut—Much Goitre -in the Mountains—A Deserted Village—The Jericho Road—We -are Attacked by Robbers—A Struggle in the Inn Yard—Odds -too Great—Our Attendants are Seized and Carried -Off—The Kind Inn-Keeper—Inopportune Patients—A Race -for Life—A City of Refuge—A Beautiful Custom—Safe at -Last—The Magistrate Turns Out to be an Old Friend—The -Charge to the Hunters</td> - <td class="tdrb">60</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Our Stay in Wewon—We Give a Dinner—Our Guests—Magistrates -Propose that we Travel with a Chain-Gang—Our -Trip Down the Yalu—The Rapids—Contrast Between -Korean and Chinese Shores—We Enter Weju—The Drunken -Magistrate—Presents and Punishments—Unpleasant Experiences -with Insincere People—Rice Christians—The Scheming -Colporter—The Men Baptized in Weju—The Lost Passport—Another -Audience at the Palace—Queen’s Dress and -Ornaments—Korean Summer House—The Pocket Dictionary—Our -Homes</td> - <td class="tdrb">77</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>An Audience at the Palace—Dancing Girls—Entertainment -Given after the Audience—Printing the Dictionary and -Grammar—A Korean in Japan—Fasting to Feast—Death of -Mr. Davies—Dr. Heron’s Sickness—Mrs. Heron’s Midnight -Ride—Dr. Heron’s Death—Difficulty in Getting a Cemetery -Concession—Forced Return to America—Compensations—Chemulpo -in Summer—The “Term Question” in China, -Korea and Japan—Difficulties in the Work</td> - <td class="tdrb">93</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Mission in 1893—“The Shelter”—Opening of Japanese -War—Seoul Populace Panic Stricken—Dr. and Mrs. Hall in -Pyeng Yang—Heroic Conduct of Native Christians—Condition -of Pyeng Yang after the War—Dr. Hall’s Death—Preaching -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xv">xv</span> -the Gospel at the Palace—The Queen Seeks to -Strengthen Friendly Relations with Europeans—Her -Majesty’s Generosity—A Little Child at the Palace—The -Slaves of the Ring—A Christmas Tree at the Palace—The -Queen’s Beneficent Plans—The Post-office Emeute of 1884—A -Haunted Palace—The Murder of Kim Oh Kiun</td> - <td class="tdrb">106</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mr. McKenzie—The First Church Built by Natives—Mr. -McKenzie’s Sickness—His Death—Warning to New Missionaries—The -Tonghaks—Mr. Underwood’s Trip to Sorai in -Summer—Native Churches—Our Use of Helpers—Christians -in Seoul Build their Own Church—Epidemic of Cholera—Unhygienic -Practices—Unsanitary Condition of City</td> - <td class="tdrb">123</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Difficulty of Enforcing Quarantine Regulations—Greedy -Officials “Eat” Relief Funds—Americans Stand Alone to -Face the Foe—The Emergency Cholera Hospital—The Inspection -Officers—We Decide to Use the “Shelter”—A -Pathetic Case—The Jesus Man—Gratitude of the Koreans—The -New Church—The Murder of the Queen—Testimony of -Foreigners—The Official Report</td> - <td class="tdrb">136</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Palace after the Murder—Panic—Attitude of Foreign -Legations—The King’s Life in Hourly Danger—Noble -Refugees—Americans on Guard—Mistakes of the New Government—Objectionable -Sumptuary Laws—A Plan to Rescue -the King—One Night at the Palace—Forcing an Entrance—Our -Little Drama—Escape of General Yun</td> - <td class="tdrb">153</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Customs Centering around the Top-Knot—Christians -Sacrificing Their Top-Knots—A Cruel Blow—Beginning of -Christian Work in Koksan—A Pathetic Appeal—People Baptize -Themselves—Hard-Hearted Cho—The King’s Escape—People -Rally Round Him—Two Americans in the Interior—In -the Midst of a Mob—Mob Fury—Korea in the Arms of -Russia—Celebrating the King’s Birthday—Patriotic Hymns—Lord’s -Prayer in Korean</td> - <td class="tdrb">167 -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvi">xvi</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Korean Christian Starts Work in Haing Ju—Changed -Lives of Believers—A Reformed Saloon-Keeper—The Conversion -of a Sorceress—Best of Friends—A Pleasant Night -on the Water—Evidence of Christian Living—Our Visit in -Sorai—A Korean Woman’s Work—How a King Acts at -Times—Applicants for Baptism—Two Tonghaks—In a Strait -betwixt Two—Midnight Alarms—Miss Jacobson’s Death</td> - <td class="tdrb">183</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Our Mission to Japan—Spies—One Korean Summer—The -Queen’s Funeral—The Procession—The Burial by -Starlight—The Independents—The Pusaings—The Independents -Crushed</td> - <td class="tdrb">201</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Itineration Incidents—Kaiwha—Christian Evidences—Buying -Christian Books instead of an Office—Seed Sowing—Moxa’s -Boy in the Well—Kugungers Again—Pung Chung—Pyeng -Yang—The Needs of the Women</td> - <td class="tdrb">216</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Another Itineration—Christians in Eul Yul—A Ride in an -Ox-Cart—Keeping the Cow in the Kitchen—Ox-Carts and -Mountain Roads—The Island of White Wing—A Midnight -Meeting—Thanksgiving Day in Sorai—The Circular Orders—New -Testament Finished—All in the Day’s Work—The -Korean Noble—Meetings of the Nobility</td> - <td class="tdrb">237</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Furloughs—Chong Dong Church—Romanists in Whang -Hai—Missionaries to the Rescue—Romanists Annoy and Hinder -the Judge—Results—Interview between Governor and -Priest—The Inspector’s Report—Women’s Work in Hai Ju—Death -of Mr. and Mrs. Johnson and Mrs. Miller</td> - <td class="tdrb">254 -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvii">xvii</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Historical Review—Korean Characteristics—Football between -Japan, China and Russia—Ill-advised Movements—Unrest -and Excitement—Korea Allied to Japan—Japanese in -Korea—Po an Whai—Kaiwha—Railroad Extension—Japanese -Protectorate—Petition to President Roosevelt—Removal -of American Legation—Education in Korea—Righteous -Army—True Civilization</td> - <td class="tdrb">272</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Present Status of Missions—Wonderful Progress—Education -for Girls—Medical Missions—Denominational Comity—Christianity -Spreading—Individuals at Work—Christian -Heroes—Character of Korean Christians—How the Work -Grows—Christian Influence—Training Classes—Circuit Work—Statistics—Rapid -Extension—Evangelistic Work—Joy and -Triumph—The Nation being Evangelized</td> - <td class="tdrb">300</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX</a></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Pentecostal Blessing—Special Meetings—Prayer Answered—Confession -of Sin—Revival in Schools—Great Meetings—Bible -Study—Effects of Blessings—Transforming Power—Holy -Spirit Revival—Comparative Statement of Growth—Features -of the Great Work—Union of Christians in Korea</td> - <td class="tdrb">335</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xviii">xviii</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> - -<table class="list"> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><a href="#frontis">SENTINEL GATE AT PALACE</a></td> - <td colspan="2" class="tdrb"><i>Frontispiece</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#CITY_OF_SEOUL">CITY OF SEOUL</a></td> - <td class="tdc">Opposite</td> - <td class="tdc">page</td> - <td class="tdrb">1</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#MAIN_ENTRANCE_TO_PALACE">MAIN ENTRANCE TO PALACE</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">10</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#KOREAN_OFFICIAL_IN_CHAIR">KOREAN OFFICIAL IN CHAIR</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">16</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#KOREAN_STONE_DOG_IN_FRONT_OF_PALACE_GATES">KOREAN STONE DOG IN FRONT OF PALACE GATES</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">20</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#THE_KING_OF_KOREA">THE KING OF KOREA</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">24</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#THE_GREAT_MARKET_AT_CHEENJU">THE GREAT MARKET AT CHEENJU</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">32</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#SURROUNDINGS_OF_SEOUL">SURROUNDINGS OF SEOUL</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">32</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#A_STREET_CROWD">A STREET CROWD</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">36</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#TAI-TONG_RIVER">TAI-TONG RIVER</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">44</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#FERRY_BOAT">FERRY BOAT</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">44</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#METHOD_OF_IRONING">METHOD OF IRONING</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">48</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#PRINCE_YU_CHAI_SOON">PRINCE YU CHAI SOON, COUSIN OF KING</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">60</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#HIGH_KOREAN_OFFICIAL">HIGH KOREAN OFFICIAL, KIM YAN SIK</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">60</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#CARRIER_OX">CARRIER OX</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">64</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#THE_OX-CART_OR_TALGOOGY">THE OX-CART OR TALGOOGY</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">64</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#A_KOREAN_VILLAGE">A KOREAN VILLAGE</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">68</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#A_BUTCHER_SHOP">A BUTCHER SHOP</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">82</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#BASKET_SHOP">BASKET SHOP</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">82</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#PLEASURE_HOUSE">PLEASURE HOUSE</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">90</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#GATE_IN_THE_WALL_OF_NAMHAN">GATE IN THE WALL OF NAMHAN</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">98</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#HOUSE_USED_BY_MISSIONARIES_ON_TOP_OF_NAMHAN">HOUSE USED BY MISSIONARIES ON TOP OF NAMHAN</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">104</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#DESERTED_ROYAL_DINING_HALL">DESERTED ROYAL DINING HALL</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">112</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#MR_CHAY_CHO_SI">MR. CHAY CHO SI</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">120</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#ELDER_YANG_AND_FAMILY">ELDER YANG AND FAMILY</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">120</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#PARTY_STARTING_OUT_IN_MORNING_FROM_THATCHED_INN">PARTY STARTING OUT IN MORNING FROM THATCHED INN</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">124</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#CHURCH_AT_SORAI">CHURCH AT SORAI</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">124</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#THE_THREE_STAGES_OF_MAN_IN_KOREA">THE THREE STAGES OF MAN IN KOREA</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">128</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#THE_ROUND_GATE_SEOUL">THE ROUND GATE, SEOUL</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">146</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#A_KOREAN_TOP-KNOT">A KOREAN TOP-KNOT</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">166</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#RUSSIAN_LEGATION_HOUSE">RUSSIAN LEGATION HOUSE</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">172</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#INDEPENDENCE_ARCH">INDEPENDENCE ARCH</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">172</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#KOREAN_WOMEN_AT_WORK">KOREAN WOMEN AT WORK</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">188</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#SCHOOL_BOYS">SCHOOL BOYS</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">192</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#GIRLS_SEWING_AND_WRITING_WITH_NATIVE_TEACHER">GIRLS SEWING AND WRITING WITH NATIVE TEACHER</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">192</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#KOREAN_STREET">KOREAN STREET</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">198</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#HORSES_IN_AN_INN_YARD">HORSES IN AN INN YARD</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">198</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#CANDY_BOY">CANDY BOY</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">218</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#ELDER_SAW_OF_SORAI_AND_HIS_FAMILY">ELDER SAW OF SORAI AND HIS FAMILY</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">234</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#MRS_KIM_OF_SORAI_AND_HER_FAMILY">MRS. KIM OF SORAI AND HER FAMILY</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">242</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#CARRIERS_WITH_JIKAYS">CARRIERS WITH JIKAYS</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">258</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a href="#WOMAN_WITH_BUNDLE_OF_WASHING_ON_HER_HEAD">WOMAN WITH BUNDLE OF WASHING ON HER HEAD</a></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdrb">258</td> - </tr> -</table> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xix">xix</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xx">xx</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="CITY_OF_SEOUL" src="images/p001.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CITY OF SEOUL. <a href="#Page_3">PAGE 3</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">1</span></p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph1" id="FIFTEEN_YEARS_AMONG">FIFTEEN YEARS AMONG THE TOP-KNOTS</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>First Arrival—First Impressions—The City of Seoul—Korean -Houses—Mission Homes—Personnel of Mission in 1888—Beginnings -of Work—Difficulties in Attaining the Language—Korean -Religions—Palace Women—First Interview with -Palace Women—Entertainment Given in my Honor by President -of Foreign Office—The Interdict—Confidence Exhibited -by Government in Protestant Missionaries—The “Baby -Riots”—Babies Reported to have been Eaten at Foreign -Legations—Restoring Confidence—The Signal—First Invitation -to Palace.</p></blockquote> - -<p>I landed in Korea at the port of Chemulpo on a cloudy, -windy March day, in 1888. My eyes fell on a rocky shore, -back of which the bare sharp outline of low hills, whitened -with patches of snow, was relieved by no trees to break -the monotony of the scene. Dreary mud flats, instead of -a sandy beach, lay reeking and slimy along the water’s -edge. As our boat neared the shore, for there was and is -no pier, and ships even at high tide cannot approach very -near, wild and strange-looking men, uttering wild and -strange-sounding speech, came hurrying down the hill to -inspect us.</p> - -<p>Their coarse black hair was long and dishevelled, in -some instances braided in a single pigtail, in most cases, -however, tied on top of the head, where a careless attempt -at a top-knot had been made, but elf-locks straying round -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">2</span> -the neck and face gave a wolfish and unkempt appearance. -They were Mongolians with all the race -features, not differing much from Chinese or Japanese except -in dress, and being in the main rather taller than the -latter people. Their garments appeared to consist of a -short loose jacket and long baggy trousers, of a dirty -white native cloth. These garments among the poorer -classes are never changed oftener than twice in a month.</p> - -<p>These were the people among whom I had come to -work—this the country which I had chosen instead of -the “groves and templed hills” of my own dear native -land. My heart swelled, and lifted up an earnest prayer -that it might not be in vain.</p> - -<p>In justice to the Koreans, however, I ought to say here, -that the people whom I saw that morning were of the -lowest and roughest class, their dress the poorest sort, -and that Chemulpo, especially in March, is perhaps the -most forbidding and unsightly place in Korea. Being -the main port for the capital, it is made up, as ports often -are, very largely of a mixture of various nationalities. -Many sailors and traders, and especially Chinese and -Japanese merchants, have built their poor houses and -shops in the main town.</p> - -<p>The trip from Chemulpo to Seoul, about twenty-eight -miles, was made the following day, in a Sedan-chair carried -by four coolies. The road, although a much traveled -one, was very bad, but is now replaced by a railroad which -accomplishes the distance in about two hours and a half. -The country I found pleasantly rolling—comparatively -few trees were seen, and the population thereabout seemed -quite sparse. Here and there were squalid mud huts -thatched with straw. I found on inquiry that this little -land, lying west of Japan, attached at its northern extremity -to China and Siberia, has an area of about ninety -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">3</span> -thousand square miles and a population of over fourteen -millions of people, with a climate varying from that in the -north, like northern New York, to that in the extreme -south, like southern Virginia.</p> - -<p>We approached Seoul about four o’clock in the afternoon, -and I was thrilled at the sight of the first walled -town I had ever beheld. The walls are very picturesque—built -of great blocks of stone—hung with ivy, and give -an impression of great age.</p> - -<p>At the time of my arrival, and for some few years after, -a very interesting custom was in vogue with regard to the -closing of these gates. Korea had for centuries a signal -fire service, by which news of peace or war was with -telegraphic rapidity conveyed to Seoul, and by number, -frequency of repetition and other expedients a tolerably -useful code had been established. On the south mountain, -within the walls, were four beacons, one for each point of -the compass, to which these lines converged. Every evening -as soon as the sun had set, when the bright glow of -these four beacon fires published the fact that all was well -in his majesty’s dominions, four officials, whose business -it was to report to the king the message of the fires, presented -themselves at the palace, and with low obeisance, -each announced that all was well in the north—in the -south—the east—and the west. On this, the palace band -struck up its gayest airs, and when this music was heard, -the signal was given for the tolling of the great curfew -bell in the center of the city. When the extremely sweet -and solemn, low and yet penetrating tones of this bell were -heard, the ponderous gates were swung to and barred, -not to be reopened till the ringing of the same bell -at the first streak of dawn gave the signal to the -keepers.</p> - -<p>Entering through these gates, fortunately not yet -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">4</span> -closed, we saw narrow, filthy streets, flanked by low mud -houses, either thatched with straw, or tiled. It has been -aptly said that the city looks like a vast bed of mushrooms, -since none of the Korean houses are built more than one -story high.</p> - -<p>The common people are very poor and their homes -seem to an American wretchedly poor and comfortless, -and yet, compared with the most destitute of London or -New York, there are few who go cold or hungry in Seoul. -Each dwelling is so arranged that the part of the house -occupied by the women, which is called the <i>anpang</i>, or -inner room, shall be screened from sight from the street -and from those entering the gate—for every house has at -least a tiny courtyard, part of which is also screened off -(either by another wall, or by mats, or trees and bushes) -for the women’s use.</p> - -<p>Many of the homes of the poor consist of but one room, -with a sort of outer shed, which is used as kitchen. Such -a place often has no window, or at most only a tiny one, -and both window and door are covered with white paper -instead of glass. These doors are usually very low and -narrow, so that even a small woman must stoop to enter, -and within it is not always possible to stand upright except -in the center, where the roof is highest. These small -rooms are easily heated by means of a system of flues -built under the floor, which consists of stone and mud. A -fire of brush and twigs is kindled under one side of the -house, and as the chimney opens at the other side, the -draft naturally carries smoke and heat through the flues, -the floor becomes very hot, and the whole room is quickly -warmed. The fireplace is built in with pots for boiling the -rice—so that a great advantage is obtained in the matter -of economy, the one fire booth cooks and warms. Wherever -it can be afforded, a <i>sarang</i>, or men’s sitting room, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span> -which opens directly on the street or road, or upon the -men’s court, is part of the establishment. Here any man -may enter; male guests are entertained, and fed, and here -they sleep. No men not members of the family or relatives -ever enter the <i>anpang</i>.</p> - -<p>It is needless to say that everything in connection with -these houses is fearfully unsanitary, and many of them are -filthy and full of vermin. All sewage flows out into the -unspeakable ditches on either side of the street. Of late -years efforts have been made to alter this state of things, -better streets have been laid, and the open sewers, which -have existed for many years, are sluiced out by the summer -rains, which are the salvation of the city.</p> - -<p>It was a great and delightful surprise when suddenly, -entering a gate in a mud wall, we left behind us these -dirty streets and saw around us a lovely lawn, flower beds, -bushes and trees, and a pretty picturesque mission home. -It was like magic. I found our mission in possession of -native houses which had been occupied in past years by -wealthy but now ruined or banished noblemen. They had -been purchased at a ridiculously low price in a condition -of dilapidation, repaired at little expense and the interiors -more or less Europeanized. The one which I entered -had, with great good taste, been left without other ceiling -than its quaint and massive beams and rafters of blackened -wood, the walls were prettily papered, and rugs and -comfortable furniture and a few pictures and ornaments -gave a homelike air. The rooms were spacious, and -having been the dwelling of the rich, they were not so low -or dark as those I have just described.</p> - -<p>Our mission, which at that time had been established -about four years, was high in favor with the government. -Dr. Allen first, and later Dr. Heron, were the official -physicians to the king, who had established a government -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span> -hospital, over which he had placed them in charge. Miss -Ellers, lately married, had been appointed medical adviser -to the queen and had been placed in charge of the -women’s department of the hospital, both of which positions -she had resigned after her marriage, and to both of -which I had been appointed to succeed. The members of -the mission whom I found were Dr. and Mrs. Heron, -Rev. H. G. Underwood and Mrs. Bunker (formerly Miss -Ellers). Dr. and Mrs. Allen had returned to America on -an official mission.</p> - -<p>Work had been well started, the hospital was daily -crowded with patients, in addition to which Dr. Heron -had a large foreign and native practice, as well as a hospital -school for the instruction of future drug clerks and -medical students. Mr. Underwood had established an -orphan boys’ home and school, had assisted Dr. Allen in -his clinics till the arrival of Dr. Heron, and was at that -time, in addition to the entire care of the orphanage, teaching -in the government hospital school, which it was hoped -might be the stepping stone to a medical school. He was -holding regular religious services, and about thirty had -been baptized. He had made a long trip into the interior, -up to the northern borders, selling tracts and preaching -everywhere. Language helps were in preparation, and the -Gospel of Mark in a tentative form had been translated. -Miss Ellers was in charge of women’s medical work up -to my arrival, and was high in favor with the queen, who -had bestowed rank upon her, and many costly presents. -She had also begun to work and train the first member of -the girls’ school.</p> - -<p>I found that help was much needed on all sides. The -day after my arrival saw me installed at the hospital with -an interpreter at my side. Here work usually lasted about -three hours. My home was with Dr. and Mrs. Heron, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span> -who with warmest kindness had fitted up a sunny room -for me. Here Dr. Heron and I had a joint dispensary, and -here I was besieged at all hours by women desiring medical -attention. I soon found that language study was continually -interrupted very seriously by these applicants, -who respected not times or seasons. I was of course called -upon to visit patients in their homes, one of whom, the -wife of the Chinese minister of state, Prince Uan (now a -very prominent personage in Chinese matters), must be -seen every day with an amount of ceremony which took -not a little of my precious time. However, finding that -others were being overworked, I consented to give two -hours each day to teaching the little orphans arithmetic -and English.</p> - -<p>Of course we made slow progress, and floundered not a -little when the teacher knew no Korean, and the pupils no -English. This institution had the unqualified favor of the -king, and except the hospital was the first institution in -Korea which illustrated the loving-kindness of the Lord. -We hoped it might become a successful school, where -souls might be saved, ere they had been steeped for -years in vice, and the first steps taken in the preparation -of evangelists and preachers. Our duty and -chief desire was of course to acquire the language, -but this was much interrupted by this other work. -As we stood there, such a little company among these -dying millions, we could not realize that hours of -preparation then meant doubled usefulness in years to -come, and so time and energy, that should have been spent -mainly in study, were poured out in hospital, dispensary -and schools.</p> - -<p>The new missionaries of these later days are put in a -language incubator as soon as they arrive and kept there -till they emerge full-fledged linguists, who have passed -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span> -three searching examinations by the language committee -of the missions. Then we sat down with an English-Chinese -dictionary (most scholarly Koreans know a little -Chinese), a Korean-French dictionary, a French grammar -and a Korean reader with a small English primer on -Korean, the Gospel of Mark and a Korean catechism for -text books. We were presented to a Korean gentleman -knowing not one syllable of English, or the first principles -of the constructions of any language on earth, or even -the parts of speech, and without the glimmering of an -idea as to the best methods or any method of teaching, -who yet was called, probably ironically, “a teacher,” from -whom we were expected to pump with all diligence such -information on the language as he was able to bestow. -With scanty knowledge of French, more than rusty from -long disuse, I labored and floundered, trying now this -plan, now that, with continual interruptions and discouragements.</p> - -<p>Before I could more than stammer a few sentences I -was called upon to begin religious teaching, so undertook -a Sunday school service with the little boys, using a catechism -which I could not yet translate, but (knowing the -sounds) could hear the boys recite. Soon after I began -holding a Bible class with a few women, with the aid of a -little native boy who had learned English and a former -sorceress who could read the Chinese Scriptures. This -woman would read the chapter, we all united in the Lord’s -prayer and in singing the few hymns then translated, and -I talked to the women through the medium of my little -interpreter. I struggled and stumbled. The women were -patient and polite, but to our Father it must have looked -the spoiled tangled patchwork of the child who wished to -help, with ignorant, untaught hands, and made a loving -botch of it all. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span></p> - -<p>Perhaps right here a few words about the Korean religions -may be in place. Confucianism, Buddhism and -Taouism all hold a sort of sway over the natives, and yet -all have lost, to a great extent, the influence they once had. -The majority have very little faith in any religion. Confucianism, -otherwise a mere philosophical system of -morals, has the strongest hold upon the people in the laws -it enjoins for ancestor worship. This custom, enforced -by the strongest and most widespread superstitions in the -minds of the Koreans, binds them with fetters stronger -than iron. If ancestors are not worshiped with most -punctilious regard to every smallest detail of the law, -dire calamities will befall, from the wrath of irate and -neglected spirits. The servitude thus compelled is hard -and wearisome, but not one jot or tittle must be omitted, -and woe to the wretch who, embracing another doctrine, -fails to perform these rites. He or she is looked upon as -more than a traitor to home and friends, false to the most -sacred obligations. Buddhism has fallen low, until very -lately its priests were forbidden to enter the capital, and -they rank next to the slayer of cattle, the lowest in the -land.</p> - -<p>A few Buddhist temples are maintained at government -expense or by endowment, and women and children, and -all the more ignorant, still worship and believe, to some -extent. The same classes also worship and fear an infinite -number of all sorts of evil deities—gods or demons, -who infest earth, air and sea, gods of various diseases, and -all trades; these in common with Satan himself must be -propitiated with prayers and sacrifices, beating of drums, -ringing of bells and other ceremonials too numerous to -mention.</p> - -<p>Over all other objects of worship, they believe, is the -great Heavens, the personification of the visible heavens, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span> -who, as nearly as I can discover, is identical with the -Baal referred to in the Old Testament; but everywhere -their faith waxes more and more feeble in these old worn-out -superstitions. In many cases only respect for ancient -customs and public opinion keeps them even in appearance -to the outward forms of worship. They are as sheep -without a shepherd, lost in the wilderness, “faint and -hungry, and ready to die,” and so when the gospel comes, -it finds many weary souls, ready to take Christ’s yoke -upon them and find his rest.</p> - -<p>And yet how hopeless looked the task we had before us -in those days, a little company of scarce a dozen people, -including our Methodist brethren, many of us able to -stammer only a few words of the language as yet, attempting -to introduce Christianity into a nation of fourteen -or more millions of people, in the place of their long -established religions; and beginning with a few poor -farmers and old women. But the elements of success, the -certainty of victory, lay in the divine nature of the religion, -and in the Almighty God who sent us with it. -This knowledge inspired us and this alone.</p> - -<p>A few days after my arrival in Seoul a messenger came -from the queen, to bid me welcome, and inquire if I had -had a pleasant journey, and shortly after Mrs. Heron -asked some of the queen’s attendants to meet me at -luncheon. These women are not, as in other courts, ladies -of high rank, for such could never, under Korean customs, -endure the publicity of the palace, but are taken -as children and young girls from the middle and lower -classes, and entirely separated from all others, to the -service of their majesties. They usually hold no rank, and -are treated with respect, only on account of their relations -to the royal family. They wear on all state occasions immense -quantities of false hair, which gives them a peculiarly -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span> -grotesque appearance; are much powdered and perfumed, -with pencilled and shaven eyebrows; wear long -flowing silken robes, gilded ornaments in their hair and at -their waists; and present the sad spectacle of women -whose very decorations seem only to add to and emphasize -their painful uncomeliness.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="MAIN_ENTRANCE_TO_PALACE" src="images/p010.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">MAIN ENTRANCE TO PALACE. <a href="#Page_20">PAGE 20</a></p> -</div> - -<p>Korean women as a rule are not beautiful. I, who love -them as much as any one ever did, who look upon them as -my own sisters, must confess this. Sorrow, hopelessness, -hard labor, sickness, lovelessness, ignorance, often, too -often, shame, have dulled their eyes, and hardened and -scarred their faces, so that one looks in vain for a semblance -of beauty among women over twenty-five years of -age. Among the little maids and young wives (saixies), -who do not yet show the effects of the heavy hand of care -and toil, one often finds a sweet bright gentle face that is -pretty, winning, and very rarely even beautiful. But -these poor palace women come not under that class; hardened, -coarse and vulgar, their appearance only calls forth -compassion. I found to my surprise that they were all -smokers, and they were equally surprised that I would not -accept their invitation to join them in this indulgence. -They examined my dress and belongings with childish -curiosity, and deluged me with questions as to my age, -why I had never married, whether I had children, and -why not, and other things equally impertinent and hard to -answer; but were after all good natured, friendly and well -meaning.</p> - -<p>This was my first introduction to Korean officialdom, -and following this within a very short time came another, -in the form of a luncheon and acrobatic entertainment -given for me by the President of the Foreign Office, Kim -Yun Sik. This invitation came for the following Sunday—and -troubled me, because I was afraid the official (who -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span> -was quite ignorant of our customs and was offering me a -flattering evidence of courtesy and good will) would be -hurt by my refusal to accept an invitation for that day, -and would very likely misunderstand it. However, there -was nothing else to be done, and with suitable explanations, -I announced my extreme regret at being obliged to -refuse his kindness.</p> - -<p>With great good feeling, he then changed the day, and -I was given <i>carte blanche</i> to invite my friends, and of -course asked the ladies of the Methodist mission, as well -as our own. Several Korean gentlemen of high rank, including -those in connection with the hospital, and others, -had also been invited by my host. The table, for in deference -to our foreign custom, one long table, instead of a -number of small ones, had been arranged—was piled high -with Korean dainties. Chicken, pheasant and other cold -meats, fish, eggs, nuts and fruits prepared in many fanciful -ways, Chinese preserved fruits and candies, a gutta-percha-like -delicacy called “dock,” made of rice and oil -pounded well together, an alcoholic native beverage called -sül, and champagne and cigars. It is needless to say that -we Americans did not partake of these latter additions to -the <i>menu</i>. A vast crowd from the streets poured into the -large courtyard, to see the acrobats, who were a strolling -band hired for the occasion. Their performance consisted -chiefly in tight-rope walking and tumbling, and was in no -way remarkable. It lasted, however, nearly three hours, -during all of which time we listened to the monotonous -whining of the Korean band, more like a Scotch bagpipe -(dear cousins, forgive) than anything else I know of; and -learned the Korean verb “anchera” (sit down), which I -heard that day repeated a thousand times, in all its moods, -tenses and case endings, in tones of exasperation to the -irrepressible Korean boy, who <i>would</i> stand up to see, just -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span> -for all the world like some boys of whiter skin, nearer -home.</p> - -<p>Just before this, Mr. Underwood and Mr. Appenzeller -had started on a long itinerating trip toward the north, -the second Mr. Underwood had undertaken. While they -were absent the wrath of the Korean king and cabinet -against the Romanists reached the boiling point, and culminated -in a decree forbidding the further teaching of -foreign religions in the ports. The country was not open -to us (as it is not to-day, except by special passports). -The Romanists, with their well-known love of chief seats -and high places, failing to profit by their former experiences -of trouble from similar causes in China, insisted -upon choosing as the site for their future cathedral one of -the highest points in the city, overlooking the palace, and -adjoining the temple holding royal ancestral tablets. The -property had been obtained unknown to the king, -through the medium of Korean agents, and though he -used his utmost endeavors, both with the priests and with -the French legation, to induce them to change this for -any other site, they remained obdurate, utterly refused to -yield, and proceeded to lay the foundation of their church. -The decree immediately followed, and the American minister -advised, nay ordered, us to recall our missionaries, -who most unwillingly returned. There were, indeed, -those who asserted that this early attempt to carry the -Gospel into the interior had been, at least in part, the cause -of the obnoxious decree, which made it look as if our -work was, for a time at least, at an end. That this was -not so was proved by the fact that Mr. Underwood had -hardly returned ere he was waited upon by a committee -consisting of high Korean nobles and members of the -cabinet, offering him the entire charge of their government -school, with a generous salary, and with the full -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span> -understanding that he would not hesitate to teach Christianity -to the pupils.</p> - -<p>This offer, displaying the great confidence, instead of -the displeasure and suspicion which foreigners assured us -was the feeling of the Koreans toward our evangelistic -workers, was taken into serious consideration, but was -finally refused on account of its interference with other -work, and for other reasons equally important.</p> - -<p>It remained to us all to decide upon our course of conduct -with regard to the prohibitory decree. Some of our -number—the majority—argued, that as it was the law of -the land, nothing remained for Christian law-abiding people -but to obey it, to stop holding even morning prayers in -our schools, to hold no religious services with Koreans, -but to wait and pray, until God should move the king’s -heart, and have the decree rescinded. By this course they -believed we should win favor with the authorities, while -defiance or disobedience might cause our whole mission to -be expelled from the country.</p> - -<p>A small minority, however, Mr. Appenzeller, now with -the Lord, his wife, Mr. Underwood and myself, held that -the decree had never been issued against us or our work, -and that even if it had, we were under higher orders than -that of a Korean king. Our duty was to preach and take -the consequences, resting for authority on the word of -God, spoken through Peter, in Acts, 4:19, to the rulers -who forbade the apostles to preach, “<i>Whether it be right -in the sight of God, to hearken unto you, more than unto -God, judge ye, for we cannot but speak the things which -we have seen and heard.</i>” Others might stop, as they did, -with sorrow, conscientiously believing that to be the best -course; we continued to teach and preach, in public and -private, singing hymns, which could be heard far and -near, in the little meeting-house. No attempt was ever -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span> -made in any way to hinder us. Christians and other attendants -on services came and went unmolested. Christianity -has grown much since then, and is acknowledged -as a factor in the politics of more than one province. No -one ever thinks now of disguising or in any way concealing -our work, yet <i>that law has never to this day been rescinded</i>. -This is exactly in accord with Eastern customs. -Laws become a dead letter, and pass into disuse; they are -not often annulled.</p> - -<p>Another event of interest, which occurred during these -first months after my arrival in Korea, was the excitement -culminating in what were called “the baby riots.” -Similar troubles in Tientsin, China, had some years previously -resulted in the massacre of a number of foreigners, -including Jesuit priests, nuns and two or three French -officials.</p> - -<p>Some person or persons, with malicious intent, started a -rumor which spread like wild-fire, that foreigners were -paying wicked Koreans to steal native children, in order -to cut out their hearts and eyes, to be used for medicine. -This crime was imputed chiefly to the Japanese, and it was -supposed the story had been originated by Chinese or -others especially inimical to the large numbers of Japanese -residents in the capital. Mr. Underwood acquainted the -Japanese minister with the rumors, in order that he might -protect himself and his people; which he promptly did by -issuing, and causing to be issued by the government, proclamations -entirely clearing his countrymen of all blame in -the matter, which it was left to be understood was -an acknowledged fact, and consequently the work of other -“vile foreigners,” namely, ourselves and the Europeans. -The excitement and fury grew hourly. Large crowds of -angry people congregated, scowling, muttering, and -threatening. Koreans carrying their own children were -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span> -attacked, beaten, and even killed, on the supposition that -they were kidnapping the children of others; and a high -Korean official, who tried to protect one of these men, was -pulled from his chair, and narrowly escaped with his life, -although he was surrounded by a crowd of retainers and -servants. It was considered unsafe for foreigners to be -seen in the street. Marines were called up from Chemulpo -to guard the different legations, and some Americans -even packed away their most necessary clothing and valuables, -preparatory to fleeing to the port. The wildest -stories were told. Babies, it was said, had been eaten at -the German, English, and American legations, and the -hospital, of course, was considered by all the headquarters -of this bloodthirsty work, for there, where medicine was -manufactured and diseases treated, the babies must -certainly be butchered.</p> - -<p>One day, when returning from my clinic, my chair was -surrounded by rough-looking men, who told my bearers -that they should all be killed if they carried me to the -hospital again; and such was the terror inspired, that these -men positively refused to take me thither the following -day. So I rode on horseback through the city to the hospital, -Mr. Underwood, who also had duties at the hospital -school, acting as my escort. We went and returned quite -unmolested, and it has been my experience then and later, -that a bold front and appearance of fearlessness and unconcern -in moments of danger impress Asiatics, and act -as a great safeguard for the foreigner.</p> - -<p>In the meanwhile, however, the European foreign representatives -had awakened to the fact that a very real -danger threatened our little community, and might ripen -at any moment into destruction. Proclamations from the -Foreign Office were posted everywhere, but the earliest of -these were mistakenly worded, leaving the impression -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span> -still that possibly some “vile foreigner” had instituted -these awful deeds, and that should he be discovered sore -punishment would follow. At last, however, a notice appeared, -written at the dictation of these same “vile foreigners,” -in which it was positively stated that not only -had no such thing been done by any foreigners, but that -should any one be caught uttering these slanders, he -would be at once arrested, and unless able to prove the -truth of his tales, be punished with death. Detectives and -police officers were scattered everywhere through the city, -people were forbidden to stand in groups of twos and -threes, a few arrests were made, and the riots were at -an end.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="KOREAN_OFFICIAL_IN_CHAIR" src="images/p016.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">KOREAN OFFICIAL IN CHAIR. <a href="#Page_16">PAGE 16</a></p></div> - -<p>Before calm was restored, however, we had some uncertain, -not to say uneasy, hours. On the evening of the -day when the excitement had been at its highest, we received -word from the American legation that should there -be evidence that the mob were intending to attack our -homes, a gun would be fired in the legation grounds as a -signal, and we were then to hasten thither for mutual -safety and defense.</p> - -<p>It was a calm starlit July night. We sat in the little -porch leading into our compound, enjoying the cool evening -air, when suddenly a terrific illumination of blazing -buildings lit up the horizon, and a fearful hubbub of a -shouting, yelling mob assailed our ears. With beating -hearts we watched and listened. Some one said Korean -mobs always began by burning houses, and while we -waited, wondering what it all meant, the air was rent by -the sharp, quick report of a gun from the American -legation.</p> - -<p>This seemed to leave no doubt as to the real state of -affairs, and Mr. Underwood and Mr. Hulbert at once repaired -to the legation to make sure that there was no mistake, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span> -but soon returned, with the welcome news, that the -firing of the gun had been accidental. The burning buildings -also proved to have been only a coincidence, and the -noise nothing more than common with a Korean crowd -round a fire. In a way that still seems to be miraculous, -the raging of the heathen was quieted, God was round -about us, the danger that looked inevitable passed away, -and all was calm.</p> - -<p>Not long after this came the first request from the -palace for me to attend on the queen, to which I responded -not without some anxiety, lest through some unlooked-for -occurrence some misstep on my part, the work -of our mission so auspiciously begun should be hindered -or stopped. As yet somewhat uncertain of our foothold, -ignorant to a large extent of the people with whom we -had to deal, we trembled lest some inadvertence might -close the door, only so lately and unwillingly opened. -I had been told I must always go in full court dress, but -when I came to open the boxes, which contained the -gowns prepared for this purpose, I found that both had -been ruined in crossing the Pacific and could not be worn. -Alas! how inauspicious to be obliged to appear before -royalty in unsuitable attire, which might be attributed to -disrespect! But a far more serious trouble than this -weighed upon my mind as my chair coolies jogged me -along the winding streets and alleys to the palace grounds. -I had been strictly warned not to say anything to the -queen on the subject of religion. “We are only here on -sufferance,” it was urged, “and even though our teaching -the common people may be overlooked and winked at, if -it is brought before the authorities so openly and boldly, -as it would be to introduce it into the palace, even our -warmest friends might feel obliged to utterly forbid -further access to the royal family, if not to banish us altogether -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span> -from the country.” “Wait,” it was said, “until -our footing is more assured; do not risk all through impatience.”</p> - -<p>I saw the logic of these words, though my heart talked -hotly in a very different way; but I went to the palace with -my mouth sealed on the one subject I had come to proclaim. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>The Palaces—The Stone Dogs—The Fire God’s Defeat—The -Summer Pleasure House—Royal Reception Hall—Court Dress -of Noblemen—First Impression of the King—Appearance -of the Queen—The Queen’s Troubles—The Queen’s Coup -d’état—The Verb Endings—The Queen’s Generosity—Stone -Fight—Gifts—The Quaga—Poukhan—Its Impregnability—Picturesque -Surroundings of Seoul—Pioneer Work—Progress -of Work—The Queen’s Wedding Gift—Our Wedding—Opposition -to my Going to the Interior—My Chair—The -Chair Coolies.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The palaces, of which there were at that time three, -and are now four, within the city walls, consist of several -groups of one-story bungalow buildings, within large -grounds or parks, which are surrounded by fine stone -walls, twelve or fifteen feet high, of considerable thickness. -Within these in closures were barracks for soldiers, -and quarters for under-officials and servants. A special -group of houses stood separated from the others for -women’s apartments, and here might be seen the aged and -rather infirm dowager queen, who died about a year after -my arrival. The main gates in the walls of the palace I -was about to visit are three, facing on the great main -thoroughfare of the city. The central one, larger than the -others, was used only for royalty; even ministers of foreign -states are expected to enter by one of the two smaller -ones on either side.</p> - -<p>The fact that on one occasion the central gate had by -special royal order been thrown open for the American -minister is an illustration of the kindness and favor -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span> -always shown to our representatives. These entrances are -approached by broad, stone steps and a platform with -handsome, carved stone balustrade, which is surmounted -as well as the lofty gates by crudely chiseled stone images -of various mythological animals. Some ten or more paces -in front of these steps, and on either side, are the great -stone dogs, so called for want of a better name, for they -no more resemble dogs than lions. The story of their -origin is as follows: The fire god, it was said, had a special -enmity against this palace, and repeatedly burned it down; -various efforts had been made to propitiate or intimidate -him with little success; at length an expensive dragon -was brought from China and placed in a moat in the -grounds. While he lived all was well, but one ill-fated -day an enemy poisoned this faithful guardian, and that -night the palace was again burned. Finally some fertile -brain devised these animals, no poison could affect their -stony digestion, no fear or cajoling could impress their -hard hearts; so there they stand on their tall pedestals—fierce -and uncompromising, facing the quarter whence the -fire god comes, always on guard, never sleeping in their -faithful watch, and, as might be expected, he has never -been able to burn the buildings thus protected.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="KOREAN_STONE_DOG_IN_FRONT_OF_PALACE_GATES" src="images/p020.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">KOREAN STONE DOG IN FRONT OF PALACE GATES. <a href="#Page_21">PAGE 21</a></p></div> - -<p>I was conducted, however, through neither of these -three main gates, but as a very strict rule was then in existence -that no chair coolies should be allowed within the -palace walls, my chair was carried to a small gate, much -nearer the royal apartments, so that we should not be -obliged to walk so far. Mrs. Bunker and Dr. Heron accompanied -me, and we were met by gentlemanly Korean -officials, and taken to a little waiting room, furnished with -European chairs, and a table, upon which were little cakes, -cigars and champagne, all of which were offered to us -ladies, though after a better acquaintance with us, tea was -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span> -substituted in place of the tobacco and wine. It would -take far too long to describe all that engaged my eager -interest as we walked through the palace grounds. A -beautiful and interesting summer pleasure house—perhaps -one of the most unique and remarkable in the world—stands -in the center of a large lotus pond. It has an -upper story and roof supported on forty-eight monoliths, -the outer row being about four feet square at the base; -the inner columns are rounded, of about the same diameter, -and sixteen or eighteen feet high; the upper story is -of wood, elaborately carved, and brightly decorated; -most of these buildings are covered with a beautiful green -glazed tile, peculiar to royal edifices.</p> - -<p>There were many other interesting buildings, among -which the royal reception hall was probably the finest. -We saw a great number of officials, eunuchs, chusas, -noblemen and soldiers, each kind and grade wearing a -different attire from all the others.</p> - -<p>The dress of the common soldiers was intended to be an -imitation of European military costume adapted to the -ideas of the Koreans. The result was a hybrid which had -neither the dignity nor the usefulness of the one or the -other. It consisted of a loose blouse jacket, and badly -fitting, baggy trousers, made of thin black cotton cloth, -with scarlet trimmings. The jacket was belted in, and a -black felt hat surmounted the top-knot, and was fastened -insecurely beneath the chin by a narrow band. This unbecoming -uniform has now been changed, and the Emperor’s -soldiers are as well dressed as those of any European -nation.</p> - -<p>Korean noblemen when in attendance at the palace wear -a dark blue coat, with a belt which is far too large and -forms a sort of hoop in front of the person. An embroidered -breastplate is worn over the chest, representing -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span> -a stork for civil office and a tiger for military rank. The -head-dress is a kind of hat woven of horsehair, with wings -at either side, curved forward, as it were in order to -catch every word uttered by royalty. Nobles and officials -wear on the hat band, just back of the ears, buttons of -various styles made of gold or jade, which indicate the degree -of the wearer’s rank.</p> - -<p>When the royal family were ready to see us, Mrs. -Bunker and I were conducted through the grounds a short -distance, passed through several gateways, and at length -stood at the entrance of an anteroom half filled with -nobles, eunuchs and palace women, beyond which, in a -very small inner room, were the king and queen, and -their son, a youth about sixteen years of age. We passed -forward to the audience-room, bowing frequently and -very low to the smiling party of three who awaited us.</p> - -<p>Never before had I, an American—a descendant of -colonial ancestors who had cast off the shackles of tyranny—bowed -so low. Never had I thought to feel as I felt -when first entering the presence of a real live king and -queen. The royal family had most graciously risen to -greet us, and at once invited us to be seated. At that time, -at least, Korean nobles never entered the royal presence -without prostrating themselves to the ground, and such a -piece of presumption as sitting was never dreamed of; so -we refused the offered chairs, having been especially -warned that not to do so might awaken jealousy and make -enemies to the cause of Christianity. The point, however, -was insisted upon to such an extent that we could no -longer with politeness refuse, and so we found ourselves -sitting face to face in a chatty sort of way, in a little eight -by ten room, with the king and queen of Korea. The -king impressed me at that and every subsequent meeting -as a fine-looking genial gentleman. He was attired in a -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span> -long touramachi, or coat of rich red silk (the royal color), -with a cap or head-dress like those worn by the noblemen, -except that the wings turned back rather than forward -like theirs.</p> - -<p>The queen, of course, excited my deepest interest. -Slightly pale and quite thin, with somewhat sharp -features and brilliant piercing eyes, she did not strike me -at first sight as being beautiful, but no one could help -reading force, intellect and strength of character in that -face, and as she became engaged in conversation, vivacity, -naïveté, wit, all brightened her countenance, and gave it -a wonderful charm, far greater than mere physical beauty; -and I have seen the queen of Korea when she looked -positively beautiful.</p> - -<p>She possessed mental qualities of a high order, as I -soon learned, and although, like all Asiatics, her learning -consisted chiefly in the Chinese classics, she possessed a -very intelligent idea of the great nations of the world and -their governments, for she asked many questions, and remembered -what she heard. She was a subtle and able diplomatist -and usually outwitted her keenest opponents; -she was, moreover, a sovereign of broad and progressive -policy, patriotic, and devoted to the best interests of her -country and sought the good of the people to a much -larger extent than would be expected of an Oriental -queen. In addition, she possessed a warm heart, a tender -love for little children, a delicacy and consideration in her -relations, at least with us missionaries, which would have -done honor to any European lady of high rank. The -queen, though a Korean who had never seen the society -of a foreign court, was a perfect lady. It was with surprise -that I learned that as much difference exists in -Korea between the people of high birth and breeding and -the common coolie as is found between the European -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span> -gentleman and the day laborer. Their majesties kindly -inquired about my trip to Korea, my present comfort, and -my friends and family in America, showing the kindest -interest in what concerned me most. The conversation -was carried on through an interpreter, who stood behind -a tall screen, his body bent nearly double in reverence, -never raising his eyes.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="THE_KING_OF_KOREA" src="images/p024.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE KING OF KOREA. <a href="#Page_23">PAGE 23</a></p></div> - -<p>I learned later that Korean doctors, always men, who -had treated the queen, felt (?) her pulse by using a cord, -one end of which was fastened about her wrist, and the -other carried into the next room was held in the doctor’s -fingers. The royal tongue, I was told, was protruded -through a slit in a screen for the physician’s observation. -I found the queen’s trouble nothing more serious than a -small furuncle which needed lancing; but as the mere suggestion -of approaching her sacred person with any sort -of surgical instrument was looked upon with unspeakable -horror and indignation by all who surrounded her, -and was flatly forbidden by the king, patience and slower -measures were necessarily resorted to.</p> - -<p>It was hardly to be wondered at that all the queen’s -friends were so over-cautious and fearful for her safety. -She had suffered long and malignant persecution at the -hands of a cruel father-in-law, whose wicked ambitious -schemes and greed of power she had balked, and nothing -that a fertile brain and hate combined with wealth and influence -could contrive was left undone to bring about the -ruin of this unhappy lady. Slander, assassins, insurrection, -fire, conspiracy with hostile nations—were all resorted -to; many and thrilling were her hairbreadth -escapes. Once disguised and carried on the back of a -faithful retainer, she was taken from one end of the city -to the other, and once in a common native woman’s chair -she was borne to a place of concealment and safety. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span> -Nearly her whole immediate family were destroyed at one -fell blow, by means of an infernal machine cunningly devised, -sent as a present of great value from a supposed -hermit, to be opened only in the presence of every member -of the family. Through some fortunate circumstance the -queen was detained away, but all present were instantly -killed and horribly mutilated. To understand the reason -for this ferocious enmity, one needs to know a little of the -royal history.</p> - -<p>The present king was the adopted son of a former -childless king. His widow appointed the present king’s -father to act as regent until the majority of his son. The -older man was greedy of power, keen and crafty, and not -inclined to hand over the reins of government; he therefore -selected a wife for his son from a family of his near -friends, choosing a woman he supposed he could easily -control; but he was mistaken in her character and gifts. -Years slipped by and time had long been over-ripe for the -king to assume the government, and yet the “Tai-won-kun” -gave no sign of relinquishing his clutch upon the -reins of power; but the king, gentle and submissive to his -father, as all Koreans are taught to be, was unwilling -to force a resignation. One morning, however, through a -<i>coup d’état</i> of the queen, the old man found himself displaced, -and a new cabinet and set of advisers selected -from the friends and cousins of the queen. His rage -knew no bounds, and from that time forth he planned her -destruction. How he finally succeeded in carrying out his -malicious intentions must be related later. Thus far, the -queen, equally shrewd and fortunate, had escaped his -toils.</p> - -<p>To return to our palace visit, however. After examining -into her majesty’s trouble, and prescribing a course of -treatment, we took our leave, backing and bowing ourselves -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span> -out of the royal apartments as if we had been born -and bred hangers-on of courts. I soon learned that all -my verbs must wear a long train of “<i>simnaitas</i>,” “<i>simnikas</i>,” -and “<i>sipsios</i>,” the highest honorific endings when -visiting the palace. Each Korean verb has a generous -collection of these endings, from which the confused and -unwary stranger must select at his peril, when addressing -natives of different ranks; but there is no doubt, fortunately, -about what must be used at the palace, and one -feels quite safe if every verb is tipped with a “<i>simnaita</i>” or -“<i>simnika</i>.” To be sure, there are high Chinese-derived -words, which natives always use there, instead of the -simpler Anglo-Saxon—I should say, Korean—but uninitiated -foreigners are not expected to know them, and are -really most generously excused for all mistakes. Koreans -are in this respect models of kindness and politeness, and -will often hear newcomers make the most laughable and -absurd mistakes without a single spasm of countenance -to show that they have taken note of the blunder.</p> - -<p>Not many days after this visit to the palace, an official -appeared at my home with a number of interesting and -beautiful gifts from the queen, including a fine embroidered -screen, embroidered pillow, and bed cushions, native -silks, linens, cotton materials, fans, pockets and various -other articles.</p> - -<p>Her majesty was extremely generous, and it was nothing -unusual for her thus to bestow in most munificent -fashion gifts upon the members of our mission whom she -had met, and upon the ladies of the legations. Every -Korean New Year’s day any of us who were in the -slightest way connected with the palace or government institutions -received many pheasants, bags of nuts, pounds -of beef, large fish, hundreds of eggs and pounds of dried -persimmons. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span></p> - -<p>On the royal birthdays, too, dainties were sent to us, -and at the beginning of each summer dozens of fans and -jars of honey water were presented. This open-handed -generosity indicated not only the queen’s kind disposition, -but the favor with which all Americans were regarded -by the Korean authorities, due largely to the -favorable impression which Dr. Allen had made, and also -perhaps to the fact that we belonged to a large and powerful -nation, which had no object in interfering in Eastern -politics in any way to the detriment of Korea, and which -might become an efficient ally and defender.</p> - -<p>During my first year I had the exciting and doubtful -privilege of being present at a native sectional or stone -fight, an experience which few covet even once—and -which the wise and informed, at least of womankind, invariably -forego. Once a year at a certain season, where -two neighborhoods or sections have grievances against -each other, they settle them by one of these fights. They -choose captains, arrange the opposing parties, and begin -firing stones and tiles at each other. As one crowd or the -other is by turns victorious, and the pursued flee before -their enemies, and as those who are at one moment triumphant -are often the very next the vanquished, hotly -chased, it is almost impossible to find any safe point of -vantage from which to view the conflict. At any instant -the place one has chosen, as well removed and safe, may -become the ground of the hottest battle. Very large -stones are often thrown, and people are fatally injured, -though not as frequently as one would think. It is a -wonder that hundreds are not killed or wounded. In -going from my home to visit a friend one day, a few -weeks after my arrival, I was obliged to pass a large -crowd of men, who seemed divided into two parties, and -were very noisy and vociferous. I remarked upon this to -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span> -my friend, and sending to inquire, we found it was the -preliminaries of a stone fight which I had witnessed. Her -husband said it would not be safe for me to return alone, -and therefore to my lasting gratitude offered to see me -through it.</p> - -<p>We soon found that the stones and missiles were coming -our way, and were forced to run for shelter to a -Korean house. For a few moments the fight was hot -around us, and then as it seemed to have passed on—quite -far down the street—we ventured forth, only to find -that the tide had again turned, and the whole mob were -tearing in our direction. Mr. Bunker, for it was he, said -there was nothing for it but to scale a half-broken wall -into an adjacent compound, and run for it to the house of -Mr. Gilmore, not far distant. So, reckless of my best -gown, I scaled the wall with great alacrity, and we ran for -it quite shamelessly. Missiles of considerable size were -raining around us, and the possibility, or rather probability, -that one would soon light on our heads, accelerated -our speed to no small degree. These affairs are often -funny in retrospect, but smack strongly of the tragic at the -time, while the outcome is so decidedly uncertain. However, -by much dodging and circling, frequently sheltering -ourselves under the wall, we at length reached Mr. Gilmore’s -house, when, in a somewhat ruffled and perturbed -condition, I waited till the coast was quite clear and found -my way home, a wiser and deeply thoughtful woman.</p> - -<p>On one occasion not long since an affair of this kind -threatened very serious results for a hot-headed young -compatriot of ours, who went to photograph one of these -fights. A cool-headed American recently snapped his -camera on a tiger here before shooting it, and it may have -been in emulation of him, that our young friend made -this attempt. He soon became convinced that he was the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span> -object at which all the missiles were sent, and that the -bloodthirsty ruffians were all seeking his life. Being unfortunately -as well as unlawfully armed with a six-shooter, -over-excited and alarmed, he fired into the crowd -and fled. His bullet entered the fleshy part of the leg of -one of the natives, who fell, as most of them supposed, -mortally wounded; and now indeed the wrath of the crowd -on both sides was directed at its hottest against the -thoroughly frightened young man. He ran for his life—the -crowd pursuing with yells of fury. Camera and overcoat -were flung away—he had nearly a mile to go to reach -shelter in the American legation, which he at length managed -to do, panting and almost exhausted. As his victim -was not seriously hurt, he escaped with the payment of a -fine, a few weeks’ imprisonment, a most severe reprimand, -and a polite request to leave the country.</p> - -<p>The Koreans often evince considerable military skill in -the tactics of these civil battles. Sharpshooters armed -with slings will take possession of some high point, and -others are sent to take them by surprise and dislodge them, -suddenly creeping upon them from the rear, or scaling the -rampart in the face of the enemy’s fire. These natives repeatedly -prove themselves good fighters and no cowards, -when armed and facing not too unequal numbers.</p> - -<p>During this my first summer in Korea I was invited to -attend a royal Quaga. This was a very interesting assemblage -of Korean scholars, who met in the palace grounds, -and there in little tents or booths wrote theses in Chinese -on some subject given by the king. Those whose papers -passed a successful examination were rewarded with some -civil rank, supposed to be proportioned to the excellence -of their standing. I should think that more than a thousand -men from all parts of the country were gathered -in these grounds, busily writing or copying their -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span> -papers, some of which were then being handed to the -judges.</p> - -<p>I was told, however, that in nearly all the successful -cases money was necessary to aid the judgment and -clarify the minds of the judges. We were treated with -great kindness, invited to a fine pavilion, and later offered -refreshments in the royal dining hall. This old-time -(shall I say, dishonored) institution has now fallen into -disuse for some years. No doubt in its honest beginnings -a truly competitive examination for office, it was good -and useful, but abuses creeping in, rendered it an empty -form to be finally abolished as a useless and effete remnant -of ancient days.</p> - -<p>Another event of the summer was a little trip made to -Poukhan, or the northern fortress, about ten miles distant -from Seoul. It is said by Koreans that a secret underground -road leads from it to the palace in Seoul, so that -in case of any danger, or the investment of the city by -enemies, the royal family could flee hither for safety. It is -in truth an ideal spot for such a purpose. European soldiers -have said that properly fortified it would be for -months, perhaps years, impregnable. Our visit was made -in Korea’s loveliest season, the month of May, which is, if -possible, more beautiful than in any other land. Wild -flowers of the most exquisite hue and odor abound everywhere, -but at Poukhan they seemed to be in greater quantities -and lovelier colors. The mountain rises bold and -rugged in outline, and its scenery is wild and in places -almost forbidding, but a beautiful brook dashes down its -sides, leaping over huge boulders and turning everything -into luxuriant beauty, like the lovely maids of fairy lore, -in whose footsteps the sweetest flowers sprang and from -whose lips dropped fairest gems.</p> - -<p>This brook flows from a spring which bubbles up in -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span> -the top of the mountain, so that any garrison stationed -there need never surrender for want of water, nor indeed -of food, for after a steep ascent of about a mile, the path -suddenly pierces the rocks, and entering a picturesque gate -in a more picturesque wall, all hung with ivy, dips into a -verdant valley surrounded on all sides by lofty barriers of -rock. Here are fertile fields where food can easily be -raised and stored against an evil time.</p> - -<p>Some of our missionaries often come here, and spend -the hot and unhealthy summer weeks among the cool -shades of these lofty rocks—in some of the Buddhist -temples. There are some delightful little pavilions, near -clear, cool pools of water, with scenery on all sides very -wild, beautiful, and picturesque.</p> - -<p>At that time, in the history of our mission nearly every -foreigner possessed a horse, most of them Chinese ponies, -very gentle and easy to ride. Utterly unacquainted with -the nature of the people, it was feared by many that -danger might suddenly arise, and that we ought to have -means of escape at hand. We found them very useful and -pleasant accessories, and often when the hot afternoon -sun was low we explored some of the pretty and interesting -surroundings of Seoul.</p> - -<p>This city lies encircled by low mountains, whose treeless -and bare outlines cut the blue horizon with a bold -abruptness. Among the hills and mountain passes are -pretty woods and groves—and here lies nestled many a -little hamlet, entered through some charming lane, bordered -with blossoming bushes of clematis, eglantine, hawthorn -or syringa, in richest profusion. Mr. Underwood -was often my guide on these excursions; sometimes we -walked on the city wall, and saw the distant mountains -and the sleeping villages beneath us, bathed in glorious -moonlight, and thanked God for casting our lives in a land -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span> -of so much beauty and among a people so kindly and -teachable.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="THE_GREAT_MARKET_AT_CHEENJU" src="images/p032a.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE GREAT MARKET AT CHEENJU</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="SURROUNDINGS_OF_SEOUL" src="images/p032b.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">SURROUNDINGS OF SEOUL. <a href="#Page_32">PAGE 32</a></p></div> - -<p>During all these months and the following winter -foundations were still busily laying, language helps -and Bible translations were under way, and through -hospital and school, as well as by direct evangelistic effort, -people were being reached. The number of attendants -upon the services in the little chapel was daily increasing, -and reports came from the natives working in the country -of inquirers and converts there, which made it seem necessary -to make another extended trip as soon as possible. -A second trip had already been made by Mr. Underwood, -selling books and simple medicines, and gathering in here -and there a little handful of converts. He met with great -encouragement, but baptized few. During his first trip -he traveled to the northern border of Korea, stopping in -all the large towns, Songdo, Anju, Pyeng Yang, Kangai, -Haiju, Ouiju. During the entire year less than twenty-five -were baptized, and from the first altogether up to that -time hardly fifty, while Methodists and Presbyterians together -up to 1889 numbered only a little over one hundred. -In April of 1888 he baptized seven men at Sorai, a village -in Whang Hai, where the Gospel had been brought in -from China by a Mr. Saw Sang Hyen, a convert of Mr. -Ross’. Some of these men had come to the capital in the -spring of 1887 and three had been baptized after careful -examination.</p> - -<p>The seven who were received in their own village had -been for more than a year in preparation, and then were -baptized only after Mr. Underwood had spent ten days -in their village, talking with and examining them. -This is mentioned to show that extreme caution was used -in making the first admissions to the native church, in -order that its foundations might be laid securely, if slowly. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span> -In the trip made in November, 1888, certain Koreans had -been placed in a few localities to instruct, sell tracts and -pave the way for the work of the foreigner on a succeeding -visit. One of these men was stationed at Pyeng Yang, -one at Chang Yun, and one at Ouiju. Extremely encouraging, -but in some cases exaggerated reports came from -all these places as to the increasing number of hopeful inquirers, -and it seemed imperative that a trip should be -taken as soon as spring opened, for the examination, encouragement -and instruction of these new believers, and -to oversee the work of the employed agents, who were -necessarily unproved as yet.</p> - -<p>Mr. Underwood and I had been engaged since the early -fall, and we had arranged to be married, and to start for -the country on the fourteenth of March. The whole -foreign community seemed to vie with each other in -tokens of kindness and good will towards us on that occasion.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the eventful day, the jingling bells -of many pack-ponies was heard in our courtyard, and -I soon discovered that quite a train of the little animals -had arrived with the gift of her majesty. One million -cash! It sounds like “Arabian Nights,” but as at that -time 2,500 to 3,000 cash went to the making of the dollar, -it was not, after all, more than a generous Korean queen -might easily give, or a missionary easily dispose of. Their -majesties arranged for several people from the palace -to be present at the ceremony, the army was represented -by General Han Ku Sul, a nobleman of the highest rank, -and the cabinet by Min Yeng Whan, a near relative of -the queen, and in highest favor with their majesties.</p> - -<p>A number of palace women were also present, behind -screens, and of course some of the native Christians. The -whole foreign community gave us their good wishes, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span> -cable messages were put in our hands just after the ceremony, -from each of our respective homes in America.</p> - -<p>Early on the morning of the 14th of March, 1889, we -set out on our wedding trip.</p> - -<p>Everything except force had been resorted to by missionaries -and foreigners residing in Seoul to prevent my -taking this journey. No European woman had, as yet, -ever traveled in the interior of Korea, and not more than -four or five men had ever ventured ten miles outside the -walls, except to the port. Tigers and leopards were -known to exist in the mountains; the character of the -natives was not well understood by most people; contagion -in the inns, the rudeness of mobs, the difficulty of -obtaining good water, no means of speedy communication -with Seoul, the necessity at times of long marches, -were all possible dangers, but were greatly overestimated. -It was freely and frequently predicted, that if I came back -at all, it would be in my coffin, and my poor husband fell -under the heaviest of public censure for consenting to take -me. As he had made two trips and saw no difficulty, I -felt I could trust his judgment, and as country work was -exactly what I had longed to do, and what had been my -ideal from the first, I looked forward with the greatest -pleasure to a journey through a lovely country, to be -filled with blessed service; it seemed to me no honeymoon -so rich in delight could ever have been planned before.</p> - -<p>It was arranged that I should go in a native chair, -which consisted of a sort of box frame, high enough for -me to sit in Turkish fashion; it had a roof of bamboo -covered with paper oiled and painted, the sides were -closed in with blue muslin, and there were little windows -of stained glass on either side. A curtain in the front -could be raised or buttoned down to keep out the chill or -the disagreeable piercing eyes of the curious sightseers or -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span> -<i>kugungers</i>, as they are called in Korea. My conveyance -was made more comfortable by cushions beneath and behind -my seat, a shawl was draped around the inside to -keep out draughts, and with a hot-water bottle and foot-muff -at my feet, I felt positively steeped in luxury, and -quite too much babyfied for a hardy missionary.</p> - -<p>I was carried by a couple of strong chair coolies, the -poles on which the chair was placed resting in straps, -which hung from the shoulders of the carriers, so that its -main weight came on them, rather than on the hands, -which grasped the poles. There were four bearers, two -who carried, and two who, by placing a strong rod under -the chair, lifted its weight from the tired shoulders, for -half a minute or so, once every ten minutes. At the end -of every three miles these lifting men and the others -changed places, and so we easily made thirty miles or -more every day, without much fatigue on the part of these -hardy men, whose profession this had been for years.</p> - -<p>I’m afraid they were a very rough set of customers, -and undoubtedly got us into trouble on more than one -occasion. They were full of fun and spirits, and told long -and fishy yarns, to the country folks, and occasionally -played off practical jokes on these simple swains, to beguile -the tedium of the road. They aroused the awe and -admiration of the natives in the country villages, by telling -them what wonderful things we carried in our packs. -There was nothing, according to them, that we could not -do, or had not got. “Why, even a boat,” said they, “is in -that trunk. It folds up very small, but one blows into it, -and it gradually grows hard and large, and lo! a boat.” -Thus was magnified our rubber bath tub. That we finished -our trip with so little difficulty with such companions -speaks well for the gentle good nature of the -natives. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="A_STREET_CROWD" src="images/p036.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">A STREET CROWD. <a href="#Page_35">PAGE 35</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span></p></div> - -<p>Of course, I walked as much as possible, but many -weary miles must be endured in the chair, with its tiresome -jogging, interrupted regularly with an upward jolt -of several inches. The ordinary road soon came to be -quite tolerable, but when the bearers in the half light of -early dawn (or worse still, the evening, when tired with -a long day’s march) picked their way over the narrow -foot-paths, slippery with clay, between half-submerged -rice fields, or jumped across intervening ditches, the rear -man going wholly by faith, I must say it was not easy or -pleasant.</p> - -<p>We had quite a little train. Mr. Underwood was on his -horse, with a <i>mapoo</i> to lead and care for it. These horses -are all fed on a hot food of beans and chopped hay, and -very carefully attended to. We had two or three pack-ponies -which carried medicines, tracts, at that time mostly -Chinese, which only scholars could read, our blankets and -bedding, a few cooking utensils, and foreign food and our -clothing. The question of money and changes of horses -was a difficult one, but it had been solved by an order -from the Korean Foreign Office, to the country magistrates, -to accept our receipt for any amount of money that -we might need, and also for horses in exchange for ours, -all of which bills we were to pay in Seoul on our return. -The money was so extremely bulky, it was impossible to -take more than a couple of days’ supply on our ponies. -On previous trips Mr. Underwood had carried large lumps -of silver, which were exchanged in the towns for cash.</p> - -<p>The little inns along the road never charge for rooms; -the number of tables of rice and the number of horses fed -are usually the only items in the landlord’s bill. In addition -to chair coolies and mapoos, we had a young Christian -helper, a cook, and a kesu. The two latter left us at -Pyeng Yang and returned home. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>We Start on our Wedding Journey—Songdo—Guards at our -Gates—Crossing the Tai-tong—Difficulties in Finding an -Inn—Korean Launderings—An Old Man Seeks to be Rid of -Sin—Mob at an Inn—A Ruffian Bursts Open my Door—Fight -in the Inn Yard—Pat Defies the Crowd—Convenience -of Top-knots—A Magistrate Refuses to Shelter Us—The -“Captain” to the Rescue—Pack-ponies—We Lay a Deep -Scheme—Torch Bearers—A Mountain Hamlet—Tiger Traps—Tigers—A -Band of Thirty Conspire to Attack Us—Guns -Used by Native Hunters—A Tiger Story.</p></blockquote> - -<p>We started on our trip at early dawn, turning directly -north, on the road passing under the arch, which then -marked the spot where the representatives of Korea yearly -met the Chinese ambassadors who came to receive tribute. -This custom was maintained until Korea’s independence -was declared; in honor of which the old arch was then -taken down and a finer one erected. Beyond this arch -lay the pass, a narrow, muddy and stony way, leading -through the mountain. It was crowded with oxen and -pack-ponies, going to and from Seoul. Shouting mapoos -and coolies added to the confusion, great rocks seemed -just ready to fall from above and crush the unlucky -passers, and many which had fallen from time to time impeded -the road. Now a fine road has been made across -the hill, and the old way of danger and discomfort is -closed up. From its darkness, its fiendish noises, gruesome -odors and bad going it would not have been an unfit -image of Bunyan’s Valley of the Shadow of Death. The -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span> -snow still remained in sheltered places, for it was only -March, and the morning air was sharp and chill, but we -found a very fine road all the way to Songdo.</p> - -<p>We made our first halt at noon, at a small village between -Seoul and Songdo, and I had my first experience -of a native inn. The Korean inn is second only in filth, -closeness, bad odors and discomfort to those in the interior -of China. There is usually only one room for -women, which has from one to four or five paper-covered -doors or windows—they are nearly always the same size -and bear the same name—opening into the kitchen, the -court and the sarang. This room is often not more than -eight by ten or twelve feet large, and very low. The -paper which covers the door is commonly blackened -with dirt, so that few indeed are the rays of light which -manage to struggle in a disheartened way into these -gloomy little apartments. They boast little or no furniture, -perhaps a chang or Korean cabinet (most unique and -antique-looking chests, much ornamented with brass or -black iron hinges, locks, etc.) stands against the wall, -upon which are piled a great many bright-colored quilts -and pillows, not the wooden ones sometimes described -and much used, but like old-style long sofa pillows, and -very much more comfortable. At the center of the ceiling, -just under the roof tree, may be seen a bunch of dirty -rags, feathers and sticks, where the household Lares and -Penates are supposed to roost. A wharrow or charcoal -fire-pot with a smouldering fire probably stands somewhere -on the floor. This should be promptly removed, -as its presence often causes severe headache, and sometimes -asphyxia, from which one of the missionaries was -only resuscitated after repeated fainting and hours of -effort on the part of a companion.</p> - -<p>In most of the inns very picturesque tall brass or -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span> -wooden lamp-stands are seen. They consist of a rod -about two and a half feet high, on a good solid base with -a little bracket at the top for a saucer of castor oil, and -an ox horn hanging below containing the main supply of -oil. The lamp or saucer contains a small wick which -yields a very tiny light, just enough to emphasize and -make visible the darkness. Often these lamps have a -special niche, or little cupboard in the wall, where they -are enclosed during the day. Nearly always a stout bar -crosses the room about a foot from the wall, and three or -four feet from the floor, on which garments may be hung, -and as commonly there is a wide shelf running around -two or three sides of the apartment, very near the roof, on -which are sundry household utensils, winter vegetables, -very likely piles of yeast cakes for the manufacture of -beer, and, in fact, a heterogeneous collection, too numerous -and varied to mention. Here lies a dusty old book, -there a work basket, and further on the wooden block -and clubs used for ironing, a bottle of medicine, a pile of -rice bowls, or a box of matches.</p> - -<p>The mats which are placed over the oiled paper, or more -likely directly on the earth floor, are full of dust and -vermin of all descriptions, which run riot everywhere. -It is best not to begin to think how many people have, in -that room and lying on these identical mats, been ill, and -died, of dysentery, small-pox, cholera or typhus fever, -since the room was even swept or the mats once shaken. -A “really truly” cleaning they are ignorant of. Fumigation -and disinfection are as far beyond the flights of their -wildest imagination as the private life of the man in the -moon. The miracle over which we never cease to wonder -and admire is that so many people of clean antecedents -who travel through the interior are able to resist the -microbes, bacteria, germs and all similar enemies -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span> -under whatsoever name which, according to all modern -science, ought to attack and destroy them in short -order.</p> - -<p>In most of the inns, tall earthen jars, from two to three, -or rarely four feet high, and two or three feet in diameter, -in which Ali Baba’s cutthroat thieves could easily hide, are -ranged along the side of the wall, but more frequently in -the courtyard. They contain various kinds of grain, -pickles, beer, wine, and there are always several holding -<i>kimchi</i> (a sort of sauerkraut), without which they never -eat rice.</p> - -<p>Numbers of dogs, cats, chickens, pigs and ducks are -under foot in the courtyard, oxen and ponies are noisily -feeding in the stalls, under the same roof with ourselves, -only just outside the paper door, and if one is to sleep it -must be in spite of a combined grunting, squealing, cackling, -blowing and barking, anything but conducive to repose. -Most of the hotels have, as has been said, only -one inner room, where it is proper for a woman to stay. -Our helper, chair-coolies, mapoos and other travelers -use the sarang, packed very likely like sardines in a box, -and the host’s family turn out, and go to a neighbor’s for -the night, unless the inn is a large one on the main road. -A large and fashionable inn in Korea would have perhaps -five, or even six, sleeping apartments—though I do -not recollect having seen so many.</p> - -<p>Now we travel with cot-beds which roll up and slip into -heavy canvas bags, and take up very little room on the -pack. These blessings keep us off the dirty floors, which -are usually much too hot for health, unless, indeed, one -has come in wet, cold, and aching from a long tramp, -when they are a specific preventive of colds and rheumatism. -On that first journey, however, we had nothing of -this sort, but we sent out for some bundles of fresh clean -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span> -straw used for thatch—one thing, at least, of which there -is plenty in every village—and piled them at least a foot -high. We spread thereon our bed, to the confusion and -defeat of our little enemies, ploughing their weary way -uselessly through the mazes of that straw all night. In -this way we slept peacefully, except when the floor became -intolerably hot, and our bed correspondingly so, then we -rose, piled our straw in another place, remade our couch, -and composed ourselves again to slumber. We never did -this more than three times in one night, and it was a mere -diversion.</p> - -<p>The situation, however, develops into something quite -beyond a joke, as was hinted in a former chapter, when -one is forced to travel in hot weather. The rice and beans -for men and animals must be cooked, which means—in -nine cases out of ten—that a fire must be built under your -room, and you must sleep on the stove, although the -thermometer is already in the seventies before it is -kindled. The room, you remember, is small and low, the -windows opening to the court probably few. You look -longingly at the open porch or <i>maru</i>, but there are -leopards and tigers that prowl at night, or wanting these, -no lack of rats, ferrets, and snakes; there are foul smells -and rank poisonous vapors, pools of green water and sewage -all about, a famous place in the damp night air to -soak a system full of malaria, more deadly than wild -beasts; so with a sigh you turn again to your oven, prepared -for the worst. Up, up, steadily climbs the thermometer, -your pulses throb, your head snaps, you gasp -and pant for breath, and at length toward morning, when -the fire is dead, and the hot stones a little cooled, you fall -into an exhausted feverish sleep. But an early start is -necessary to make the next stage, and by four o’clock at -least a new fire is built to cook more rice, and you rush -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span> -out of doors, to draw a whiff of pure air and cool your -burning temples.</p> - -<p>So even if it were not for the rains, flooded roads, and -overflowing, unbridged rivers, we should not travel except -from dire necessity in the summer. Tents have not -been found practicable among the missionaries in the -rainy season, and their use has been followed in several instances -by severe and even fatal illness. One of the chief -annoyances, especially on this our first trip, at the inns -were the <i>kugungers</i> or sightseers. The paper doors are -speedily made available as peep-holes for the foe. From -all quarters the word “foreigner,” and above all “foreign -woman,” spreads like wildfire. Never did a lion or an -elephant create such excitement in an American village. -The moment we entered an inn the house was instantly -thronged, besieged, invested. Every door was full of -holes made by dampening the finger and placing it with -gentle pressure against the paper. It was dismaying, -when we fancied ourselves quite alone, to see all those -holes filled with hungry eyes. Never since have I cared -to visit a show of wild animals or human freaks. I sympathize -with them so fully, that there is no pleasure in the -satisfaction of curiosity at such a cost. We wished to -meet the people, but we could not talk with such a mob, in -any satisfactory way, as their frantic curiosity about us -made it impossible for them to attend to what we had to -tell until they were in some measure satisfied. But to return -to our trip.</p> - -<p>Some twenty miles this side of Songdo the road crosses -the Imgin river, where a ferry boat is in readiness to -carry the traveler and his belongings to the other side. A -story is told here of the patriotism of a nobleman who -lived in a magnificent summer house on the bluff overlooking -the river, at the time of the Hedioshi rebellion. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span> -His king, fleeing from the Japanese, arrived here at midnight, -and to light him and his escort to the ferry this man -set fire to his beautiful home. As a result of this, the -king crossed in safety, and escaped his enemies. In token -of his gratitude, he therefore ordered that a summer house -should be kept perpetually in memory of his loyal friend -on the site of the one which had been sacrificed, and loaded -him with honors and rewards.</p> - -<p>The city of Songdo is one of the largest in Korea, and -from a Korean standpoint probably the most important -commercially, as well as the richest. Here is grown the -ginseng, so highly prized by Koreans, Chinese and -Japanese, and sold—the best—at forty-five dollars a -pound; more than its weight in gold. Though Songdo -was formerly the nation’s capital, a successful rebel general, -making himself king, established his seat of government -in Seoul.</p> - -<p>We arrived in this ancient city about sundown, and -shortly afterwards met ten Christian inquirers. In a few -days we sold all our books, and medicines, which we expected -would last for the entire trip, and had to send back -to Seoul for more. We were besieged by large crowds of -people during our stay, so that we were obliged to ask for -a guard at the gate. We admitted fifty at a time, and -when their curiosity had been sated, their diseases treated, -and they had bought as many books as they wanted, they -were dismissed, to make room for another pushing, struggling, -eagerly curious fifty. Mr. Underwood baptized no -one, but met, examined and instructed inquirers, and directed -and corrected his native helper’s work.</p> - -<p>Songdo is about forty-five miles from Seoul, and has -about two hundred thousand inhabitants. Thus far the -Southern Methodists are the only ones who have a station -there, though just why we other missionaries never started -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span> -work in so important a center it would be hard to say; except -that it did not seem to develop there at first as promisingly, -shall I say, as insistently, as in some other places, -where need was so pressing we never could obtain workers -enough to supply the demand, far less start new -centers.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="TAI-TONG_RIVER" src="images/p044a.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">TAI-TONG RIVER. <a href="#Page_45">PAGE 45</a></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="FERRY_BOAT" src="images/p044b.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">FERRY BOAT. <a href="#Page_43">PAGE 43</a></p></div> - -<p>Songdo has no gates. It is said that they were removed, -with the privileges as well of the Quaga, because -the people of that city so persistently continued to despise -and treat with contempt the authority of Seoul. Whereas -it is the custom to speak of going <i>up</i> to Seoul, they would -refer to going <i>down</i> to that city; they would not measure -their grain from right to left, as in Seoul, but from left to -right; and worst of all, from having constantly referred -to the king as a pig, they came to speak of a pig by the -king’s name!</p> - -<p>From Songdo, we proceeded north, by short stages to -Pyeng Yang, which was the next place of importance, -where Mr. Underwood looked for inquirers and where -there were already a few Christians. We reached the Tai-tong -River, which lay just below the city gates between us -and it, in a driving snow storm. Long and loudly did the -various members of our party try their lungs in the effort -to obtain a boat, but at length, when patience was quite -exhausted, the ferryman, or one of them, arrived with a -great flat-bottomed boat, which accommodated us all—ponies, -packs, coolies, chair, helpers and missionaries—and -landed us in mud and safety on the other side for a few -cash. I had almost forgotten, however, to speak of the -beautiful road leading up to this ferry, with its noble -overarching trees and its variety of beautiful bushes and -flowers. Even at that bleak and wintry season it was -lovely, and a month later, when we returned, it was -charming, with its green woodland shade and its wealth -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span> -of sweet-scented blossoms. Now, alas! it is quite shorn -of its beauty, for during the Japanese-Chinese war, the -trees were all cut down.</p> - -<p>We were no sooner within the city gates than a very -noisy and constantly increasing crowd followed close at -our heels, growing ever more annoying and demonstrative, -till its dimensions and behavior were altogether too -much like a mob. Respectable and frightened inn-keepers -one after another turned us from their doors until the -uncomfortable possibility of being obliged to spend the -night in the streets suggested itself. However, after a -time we found a refuge, and with the aid of a policeman -from the magistracy we managed to keep the mob at bay, -seeing only a stated number at a time, as in Songdo. It -rained during most of our stay, and I could with no comfort -or safety go out even in a chair to see the town, for -if I so much as peeped out, some one caught sight of the -foreign woman, and at once a crowd gathered which made -it impossible to move or to accomplish anything. Once -before we left I accompanied Mr. Underwood to a -pleasant spot outside the gates, which he thought would -be a good site for a sub-station, and we made a visit to the -mother of one of our Christians. She was extremely sick, -and as she recovered not long after we were very happy in -having left a good impression and a grateful family behind -us.</p> - -<p>I had a practical illustration of the inconvenience of -Korean methods of laundry in this town, for giving out a -number of articles to the tender mercies of a Korean -woman, they were returned minus all the buttons. They -had pounded the garments on a stone in some stream, and -as a precaution had removed all these little conveniences -before doing so. There was no starch, no bluing, and -no ironing. Korean clothes before ironing must be ripped, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span> -and are then pounded for hours on a smooth piece of -wood until they obtain a beautiful gloss. Koreans are, -however, not without <i>iron</i> irons. They have quite a large -one, which holds hot charcoal, and two sorts of small ones, -not more than half an inch wide by two or three inches in -length, with a long handle, for pressing the seams of -sleeves, and of garments which it is only desirable to press -on the seam.</p> - -<p>After a stay of about a week in Pyeng Yang, during -which time we saw a great many visitors, most of whom -came from curiosity, but none of whom went away without -a printed or spoken word about the gospel, we again -started out on our journey north. Oh, if one prophetic -vision might have been granted us of what was to be in -such a few years! If we could have seen those dreary and -heart-sickening wastes of humanity transformed into -fields of rich grain waiting in harvest glory for the sickle, -if we could have seen the hundreds now gathered yearly -into the garner, how our hearts would have burned within -us! “But the love of God is broader than the measure of -man’s mind,” and though we saw visions and dreamed -dreams, we hardly dared hope they would all be fulfilled. -God kept the future hidden as a sweet surprise. Just after -leaving this city an old man of seventy-six came three -miles to inquire of us “concerning the religion by which a -man could be rid of sin,” one of the first fruits of that later -harvest, which God permitted us to reap.</p> - -<p>Ernsan, one of the small villages at which we spent the -night, turned out to be a very rough sort of place. We -were obliged in many of these towns to use the Foreign -Office letter to obtain the shelter of the magistracies, as -often the inns would not receive us or would prove no -defense against the rudeness of the curious mobs, and -we had no Christian constituency to fall back upon. At -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span> -this particular place the magistrate was away, and the -“<i>chabin duli</i>” (roughs) were not under ordinary restraint.</p> - -<p>In the morning, as the time for leaving drew near, a -crowd of about one hundred men and large boys assembled -in the little courtyard waiting for a <i>kugung</i> (sight) -of the two curiosities. My husband, well aware that a -woman who permits herself to be viewed by strange men -is not respected or respectable in Korea, had my chair -brought into the house, and the door closed, so that I -might be shut in there and pass out unseen. On finding -themselves thus balked of perhaps the one great opportunity -of their lives to behold these strange, wild animals, -some of the baser fellows could not restrain their curiosity, -and one of them, probably egged on by the others, broke -open the door of my bedroom. Than this, no greater -breach of law or propriety is recognized in the land, and -the guilty wretch is amenable to almost any punishment -the injured woman’s friends may choose to inflict. My -husband, standing near the door, lifted his foot as the -proper member with which to express his sentiments—the -tongue being incapable of sufficient vigor and the hand -too good—and this, though only a demonstration—the -man was not touched—was sufficient encouragement to -my chair coolies, who, considering their own honor bound -up with mine for the time being, rushed forth to punish -the “vile creature” who had insulted us all.</p> - -<p>One of them, a brawny fellow whom we called Pat, -from his resemblance to gentlemen of the nationality -which favors that name, at a bound had singled out his -prey from the midst of the crowd and dragged him forth -from his encircling friends and protectors.</p> - -<p>He dragged him forth in the usual approved Korean -method, under such circumstances, by the top-knot, a very -convenient and effective handle, for a man once in the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span> -grasp of his enemy in this way is practically at his mercy. -He was soon on the ground being pummelled. But it -must be remarked that we were but a little party, four -coolies, one helper, one missionary, one woman, and they -were a hundred or more strong. Our calling and dearest -hopes forbade our using severe measures, nor would they, -even firearms, have availed for long, but would only have -served to make enemies for us on all sides, supposing we -had frightened this crowd into order. So it behooved us -to make peace, and speedily, for there were black looks -and angry and threatening murmurings as the friends of -the culprit drew near, preparing to defend him.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="METHOD_OF_IRONING" src="images/p048.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">METHOD OF IRONING. <a href="#Page_46">PAGE 46</a></p></div> - -<p>So Mr. Underwood rushed down into the crowd, drew -off our exasperated coolie, and quieted the rising storm. -But Patrick could not depart without giving some expression -to his indignation, and waving his chair rod like -a shillalah in the air around his head, he stood at the top -of the steps, his back to the crowd (the pure Korean -method in quarrels), vociferously announcing to whom it -might concern his opinion of such actions in general, and -this one in particular, and bidding them, in the spirit of -James Fitz James at the ford</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Come one, come all, this rock shall fly<br /></span> -<span class="i0">From its firm base as soon as I.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>But my husband saw that it would be best to get away -while we could without exasperating them further, and before -the temper of the crowd should change again for the -worse. A similar occurrence in either China or Japan -would almost certainly have ended very differently for us.</p> - -<p>The Koreans do not bear malice, nor are they very revengeful -or cruel without great provocation. We merely -had to do with a rough crowd, who gathered thinking we -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span> -were probably a base sort of people; and when they saw -that we behaved as quiet, decent Koreans would do, they -respected our reserve and curbed their curiosity, though a -few boys threw stones and hooted, and they all followed -us a few rods outside the village, but we soon found ourselves -peacefully alone.</p> - -<p>Before passing on I must say a few words on the general -effectiveness of the top-knot method. It is a great -pity men do not wear their hair in this way in America. -We women who favor women’s rights would soon find it -a mighty handle by which to manage them, for in the -hands of a discerning woman it is indeed an instrument of -unlimited possibilities. Who would care to wield a -scepter abroad, who could wield a top-knot at home? By -one of these well-tied arrangements have I beheld a justly -irate wife dragging home her drunken husband from the -saloon; and firmly grasping this, I have seen more than -one indignant female administering that corporal punishment -which her lord and master no doubt richly deserved. -The Korean wife stands and serves her husband while he -eats, she works while he smokes, but when family affairs -come to a certain crisis, she takes the helm (that is to say, -the top-knot) in hand, and puts the ship about.</p> - -<p>At another of our stopping places on this road we found -a magistrate who had been so long in the interior and who -was so ignorant and illiterate that he neither knew the -uses of a passport, nor could read it when presented. -This was serious, indeed, for here with a rough and -curious crowd to be refused the shelter of the magistracy -might mean our being subjected to mob violence, and -would almost certainly insure our passing the night on the -road. Here we must exchange exhausted pack-ponies for -fresh ones, here we must obtain money for the next stage, -and food and fire for our tired coolies and ourselves. So -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span> -when our helper returned with the disquieting news that -the magistrate would none of us, “the captain” donned -his harness, and passport in hand, strode into the presence, -gesticulated, I am afraid, stamped, waved the passport in -the air, flung it to the ground, and by dint of noise and -vehemence succeeded in impressing the astonished little -official with a sense of the dignity and importance of the -Foreign Office passports in the hands of strenuous Westerners.</p> - -<p>He promptly and politely gave us rooms, money, ponies, -everything we needed, in order to rid himself of us and -our arguments, I suppose, and no doubt he still recalls us -as the most remarkable and alarming intruders who ever -disturbed his quiet and uneventful life.</p> - -<p>But although sheltered by the magisterial walls our annoyances -were not over. Word had been passed far and -near of the arrival of foreigners, and the crowds gathered -thicker and thicker. They were only rude and good-naturedly -curious, but curiosity is a strange passion when -really aroused, as only those who have been its victims -know. Men will travel miles, will undergo unheard-of -fatigues and surmount great difficulties, and will pay very -little regard to the convenience, comfort or even safety of -those who try to oppose them in their desires to gratify -this passion.</p> - -<p>Aware that we were besieged, we hung shawls and rain -coats round the room, before the doors and windows, -hoping to prevent the usual peep-show made by perforating -fingers, and thus fortified, seated ourselves in front -of our trunk, which served for a table, to partake of our -meal during the short respite thus gained. A smothered -titter made us look quickly around. Long slender rods had -been pushed through the peep-holes, the curtains lifted, -multitudes of eyes applied to new holes, and we were -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span> -well in view. I must honestly confess that in some -of these baffled moments, in the hot fire of the enemy’s -ungenerous triumph, I have thought with glee of the -execution which could be done with a syringe well aimed -at those eye-filled holes, if we were just common travelers -and not longing to win all hearts and ready to bear all -such small annoyances with patience for the love of these -poor people, even the most annoying of them. And now -that I am more fully seasoned, I endure these rude intrusions -into my privacy with more <i>sang froid</i>, excusing -and understanding it.</p> - -<p>About this stage in our journey our provisions ran very -low, and among other things sugar gave out. Natives -do not have this article of food, but we were able to get -the Korean buckwheat honey, than which I have never -tasted any more delicious, and we found that it improved -the flavor of the finest tea.</p> - -<p>Here in these far recesses of the interior, where we -were uncertain of the temper of the people, and where -many more than doubtful characters were known to be in -hiding, the magistrates thought it necessary to send at -least one, sometimes two, officials with us.</p> - -<p>At the town of Huiju we found the scenery growing -quite wild, the hills rising into mountains (though not -very high ones), the road zig-zagging up and up, while a -brawling, hurrying brook ran noisily below. Here we -found the first spring flowers under the lingering snow, -and above the snow were butterflies darting about in the -sunshine, quite sure that they were in the right place, -since the Father sent them, even though it did look a -little cold and bleak; and then if one only looked up, there -was the sun. Just here in the steepest, dizziest and most -difficult part of the ascent, two of those poor little pack-ponies -which I had been pitying all along for the terrible -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span> -way their relentless mapoos overloaded them, began fighting -(loads and all), and after kicking each other in the -liveliest fashion for some time, squealing like little fiends, -while the poor mapoos were dancing and vociferating -around them trying to bring about a truce, they finally -scampered off in different directions, and then and there -my heart hardened, and never since has pity for these -animals entered it. They are, I firmly opine, as self-willed, -spoiled, obstinate, quarrelsome, uncertain, tricky and -tough little beasts as ever carried a load.</p> - -<p>Among many other people treated at this little village, -a woman came sixteen miles for medicine, and carried -away as well the news of the Great Physician. Thus the -mission to the body proves effective to the soul, and the -seed is scattered far and wide. How that little seed -prospered He only knows who has promised that those -who cast it upon the water shall find it after many -days.</p> - -<p>Here, after we had eaten our supper, Mr. Underwood -and I conceived a deep scheme to escape the stuffy little -cage-like room and take a walk by moonlight in the midst -of that lovely scenery. It would of course be futile to go -out of the gate, for then the alarm would be given, and we -should be hounded by the entire able-bodied portion of -the populace. But the wall was low, and waiting till we -supposed every one had retired for the night, we stealthily -crept like a couple of criminals out of our quarters, surmounted -the wall, and were at last free, and for once -alone, away from staring eyes, to enjoy the sweet air and -each other’s company. But alas! we had hardly gone -twenty paces when a Korean cur (than which only a -Korean pig is more detestable) espied or nosed us, and -at once set up a loud and continuous bark. We hurried -on, hoping to escape, but it was not to be; one white form -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span> -after another appeared at the doorways, soon a quickly -swelling stream of people were in our wake, and the game -was up. We returned and retraced our steps, attended by -a long retinue, entered by the gate, and hid our discomfiture -within the walls of our little dungeon.</p> - -<p>From Huiju our road led up farther, over a still higher -mountain, and here we were provided, according to the -conditions of our passport, with oxen instead of ponies to -carry our loads (being stronger and surer footed), and -also, as for all travelers belated and overtaken by darkness, -torches of blazing pine knots or long grass carried by -some of the villagers to a certain distance, where it was -the business of others to meet us with new ones. The -men who provide the oxen and torches are given the use -of certain fields by the government in payment for such -services, but often they are unfaithful. The belated -traveler pounds long at their gates in vain. Some neighbor -appears to say the man is sick or away. At length, -when a reward has been given, and when patience has not -only ceased to be a virtue, but ceased to exist at all, he or -his wife appears and deliberately prepares the long-desired -torch.</p> - -<p>On the other side of this mountain, as we descended -into the valley, we found a village which presented a very -different aspect from any we had yet seen. The houses -were not made of a basket work of twigs filled in with -mud, like the ordinary native dwellings, but of heavy logs. -The little compounds surrounding each house were enclosed -with high fences made of strong timbers, each -sharpened to a point at the top and firmly bound together, -instead of the usual hedge of blossoming bushes or tile-covered -mud wall. It all looked as if these farmers and -foresters were prepared for a siege, but from what -enemy? -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span></p> - -<p>There were no Indians or wild tribes here. It was a -most picturesque place. The mountains rose grandly -above us, all around were woods, and a beautiful stream -rippled along between them and the village. It was a -glorious moonlit night, the atmosphere seemed fairly to -sparkle with brilliancy. Again, after supper, we prepared -to take a walk. Few indeed had been our opportunities -for such honeymoon observances as this, which are supposed -to be the peculiar privilege and bounden duty of all -the good newly married. As has been noted already, the -large crowds which watched our every movement, and -from whose observation not the smallest motion was lost, -precluded any such folly on our part, but here, far off in -the wild recesses of the woods and mountains, in a village -whose inhabitants seemed nobly exceptional in the praise-worthy -habit of keeping at home, here we might wander -at will, in the enchanting light, listening anon to the -silvery cadences of the stream. So we sauntered along in -the most approved fashion of honeymooners until a few -steps beyond the confines of the village, where woods -closed in on all sides.</p> - -<p>We had observed here and there as we passed along -what looked like a sort of huge pen made of logs, -weighted with great stones on top, strangely constructed, -as if for the housing of some large animal. Now as we -stood on the edge of the brook trying to decide whether -to cross into the woods, a sound as of heavy and yet -stealthy footsteps on the dry leaves in the shadow of the -trees arrested our attention. An uncanny mystery seemed -to hang over everything. Slightly startled by the sound, -we awakened to the fact that the pens we had seen must -be tiger traps, that this was a famous tiger tramping -ground (they would naturally come to the brook to -drink), that the enemy against whom the village was so -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span> -strongly fortified were these beasts of prey, and that it -would be in every way profitable to us to postpone our -moonlight rambles for some more propitious time and -place. So with a less lover-like and more business-like -pace we returned to the prosaic but welcome shelter of -the huts.</p> - -<p>Korean tiger skins are very fine when the animal has -been killed in the winter, but unfortunately the natives do -not understand the proper method of preserving them, -and those which are taken away, as well as the leopard -skins, very soon become denuded of hair. The natives -prize the claws very highly, and often remove them as -soon as the beast is killed. They are found from the -Manchurian border through the whole country, among -the mountains; more than once have they been seen in the -capital since my arrival, and only a few months after I -landed a leopard was seen in the Russian legation compound -next to our house. As our homes were all bungalows, -and the extreme heat of summer nights necessitated -open windows, I often lay awake after this for hours -at night, certain that I heard the stealthy, heavy tread -and deep breathing of one of these creatures in my -room.</p> - -<p>But to return to our experiences in the tiger valley, -which were not yet done. While Mr. Underwood and I -were taking a walk together that evening we heard in -the valley below us the sharp report of a gun. The house -in which we were was on the side of a hill, while our -servants’ quarters, and indeed most of the village, was in -the valley just below. Shortly some one came running to -tell us that a tiger had just been shot. This was slightly -exciting, but turned out later to have been a mere excuse -to quiet any alarm I might have felt on hearing the explosion -of the gun. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span></p> - -<p>The real facts were, it seemed, that a band of some -thirty men, probably fugitives from justice, and robbers, -had conspired to visit us that night at midnight and destroy -the vile foreigners who had dared to intrude into the -sacred precincts of this mountain land, and thus warned, -no more strangers should trouble their shores. They had -drunk together to the success of their plot, and the leader -had rather overdone this part of it. Far gone in intoxication, -he had been too much fuddled to keep to the plan, -had come several hours in advance of the time, had -loudly boasted in the little inn of their intentions, and -fired his gun in a fit of bravado. At the command of the -head of the village he was immediately seized and locked -up and his gun taken away. It was a poor old-fashioned -affair, arranged with a long fuse wound around the bearer’s -wrist, lighted when ready to fire, and inserted in an -arm held up by the trigger, the pulling of which raised and -removed a small cap which protected the priming powder -and dropped the fuse upon it, thus firing the gun. It is -with these awkward and clumsy weapons that the cool -Korean hunters face and shoot the most formidable -leopards, tigers, wild boars and bears which abound in the -mountains of Korea. The Korean nobles use tiger and -leopard skins on their carrying chairs, and the teeth and -claws for ornaments, while the bones, when ground up, -are supposed to be unrivalled as a tonic.</p> - -<p>Many are the tiger stories told by Koreans; their folklore -abounds with them. One very brief one is all I have -time to insert. Once upon a time a fierce tiger crept -stealthily into a village in search of prey. But every one -was in bed, the cattle and pigs well guarded behind palisaded -walls, not a child, a dog, or even a chicken lingered -outside. He was about to retire in despair of finding a -supper there when he spied through the small aperture at -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span> -the bottom of a gate, such as is found in all gates for the -egress of dogs and cats, a small and trembling dog. His -majesty tried in vain to squeeze through this hole, and -finding it hopeless, took a careful survey of the wall. It -was high, it is true, and sharply spiked, but sharply set too -was the royal appetite, and he resolved to try the leap, -after carefully reckoning the height to be surmounted and -his own strength. He was a great agile fellow, and with -the exertion of all his might he jumped, barely escaping -the spikes, and landed safely inside the inclosure, quite -ready for his supper, well aware that he must snatch it -quickly and be gone ere the hunter in the cottage should -espy and shoot him. But puppy had gathered his tail between -his legs, and with loud and long kiyies had slipped -through the opening to the outer side of the wall. Nothing -remained for our hungry prowler but to try another leap, -only to find that his supper had again given him the slip. -Alas, that his brains were not equal to his perseverance -and industry! I grieve to be obliged to relate that this -greedy fellow vaulted back and forth in pursuit of his -meal, his anger and appetite growing with every leap, -until he died of exhaustion and fell an ignominious prey -to his small and elusive foe, illustrating the fact that -might does not always win and that the small and weak -need not always despair in the contest with size and -strength.</p> - -<p>In the little hamlet where we met the adventure with -the man who meant to kill us we were treated to fine venison -and delicious honey. All through the woods we found -anemones and other spring flowers and saw specimens of -the beautiful pink ibis, belonging to the same family as the -bird so often worshiped in Egypt. On the road hither -and all around us we saw stacked and ready for sale -cords of fine dark hard woods, of which we did not know -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span> -the names, but much of which looked like black walnut. -No one who has traveled through this part of the country -could possibly say there was a dearth of trees in Korea, -or of singing birds, or sweet-scented flowers, or gorgeous -butterflies. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Leaving Kangai—We Choose a Short Cut—Much Goitre in the -Mountains—A Deserted Village—The Jericho Road—We are -Attacked by Robbers—A Struggle in the Inn Yard—Odds too -great—Our Attendants are Seized and Carried Off—The Kind -Inn-Keeper—Inopportune Patients—A Race for Life—A City -of Refuge—A Beautiful Custom—Safe at Last—The Magistrate -Turns Out to be an Old Friend—The Charge to the -Hunters.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Our next stopping place of importance was the town of -Kangai. This was a walled city of between ten and -twenty thousand inhabitants in the northern part of the -province of Pyeng An Do. Being in the center of a rather -turbulent and independent community, at least at that -time—and when were mountaineers not so?—and quite -near the Chinese border, its governor was invested with -almost provincial authority, had a large number of soldiers -always under arms, and surrounded himself with -the greatest possible show of power and state, having a -numerous and obsequious body-guard, a gun fired whenever -he left his office, and a great retinue of menials and -officials who constantly attended him. He told us that all -this was necessary to overawe the people and establish his -prestige and dignity. He was a relative of the queen, -and I had met him at the palace.</p> - -<p>As we approached the city and about three miles outside -of it, we saw in the distance a little company of soldiers -with flying banners and sounding trumpets, awaiting -us apparently at the foot of a hill. What this might -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span> -portend we were at a loss to guess. It might mean fetters -and warder for intrusive foreigners, it might mean an -order to return, it might mean our immediate extinction, -but so kind had been our reception everywhere, -barring sightseers, that we did not entertain any serious -misgivings, although greatly puzzled as to what the -demonstration could possibly signify. However, we -marched right up, as if this martial array concerned us -not in the least. As soon as we came within saluting distance -the leader of the little company made us the most -profound obeisance and announced that he had been sent -to escort us to the city. So we proceeded with this rather -cumbersome addition to our modest suite, and not only -this, for small boys are the same all the world over, and a -motley throng of them, attracted both by the soldiers and -the circus (or, shall we say, the menagerie?), closed in -around us. A mile farther on a second attachment of military, -with its inevitable corps of small boys, was awaiting -us, and on we went, the hubbub ever increasing, drums -beating, trumpets sounding, flags flying, wooden shoes -clattering over the stones, louder, it seemed to me, than all -the rest, as I cowered in the shelter of my closely curtained -chair.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="PRINCE_YU_CHAI_SOON" src="images/p060a.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">PRINCE YU CHAI SOON, COUSIN OF KING.</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="HIGH_KOREAN_OFFICIAL" src="images/p060b.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">HIGH KOREAN OFFICIAL, KIM YAN SIK. <a href="#Page_23">PAGE 23</a></p></div> - -<p>Momentarily the formidable dimensions of the crowd -increased, while other bands of soldiers joined us at intervals, -for which I was devoutly thankful, for while the -crowd seemed good-natured and simply wildly curious, at -the same time we were strangers, to whom Koreans had -the reputation of being inimical. With so large a crowd -a small matter may kindle a blaze of fury, and as we were -rather inexperienced and ignorant of the character of the -people, I felt that whatever the intentions of the magistrate -might be, the hand of the responsible official would be -gentle compared with the hands of the mob. And yet looking -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span> -back on it all now, in the light of all that has since occurred, -it was not altogether inappropriate but in a way -fitting, that the first heralds of the gospel and the advent -of Christianity to this province should be with banners, -trumpets and great acclaim. The Kingdom had come, if -only in its smallest beginnings, and had come to stay.</p> - -<p>The wonder of it, which will grow, I think, more and -more through the eternal ages, is that God should allow -us, his poor creatures, to share with him in a work far -greater than the creation of a universe, even the founding -of an eternal and limitless kingdom of holiness, glory and -peace.</p> - -<p>But to return to our noisy procession. Within the city -the noise and excitement (“yahdan” the Koreans would -say, and nothing expresses it so well) were far greater -than ever. Dancing girls and hoodlums of every description -swelled the crowd, laughing, shouting, pushing, jostling. -High points of vantage were occupied to the last -inch with small boydom, booths or screened seats had -been rented for the use of the ladies, and the streets were -hardly passable. I shivered. I felt like a mouse in the -power of a playful tiger. It is not a pleasant thing to feel -one’s self the object of desire—even if merely in a sightseeing -way—of thousands of strange people. Many in -that crowd had come more than ten miles to behold us. -My husband to protect me from the unpleasantness, to say -the least, of falling into the hands of so large and eager a -mob, hastened to the gates of the magistracy, quickly dismounted -and bade the guards be ready to close them the -instant my chair had entered. This was promptly done, -the gates well bolted and guarded, and proud of our victory -over the small boys, we hastily retired to our rooms. -But hark! what noise was that, like thundering of a -waterfall, or of a river dashing away its barriers? Alack! -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span> -it was the boys. They had scaled the wall on each other’s -shoulders, and were literally pouring over it into the compound.</p> - -<p>I looked around the little room for some means of -escape, like a hunted animal. Its windows and doors were -double, the inner one sliding into the wall, but both were -composed simply of a light frame of slender sticks -covered with stout paper, and already the dancing girls -and boys were tearing away the outer coat preparatory to -forcing an entrance. Suddenly I espied a small door, -which I found opened into a long dark closet, full of the -dust and dirt of unclean centuries. Hither I fled, cowering -in its farthest recesses. Those who looked in the windows, -and saw nothing of the strange animal <i>genus Americanum</i>, -concluded she must be in some other place, and so -a short respite was granted, which Mr. Underwood and the -deputy magistrate made good use of in guarding our -house doors. The deputy himself was obliged to take his -station there, and threatening with awful penalties any -soldier who should permit the “<i>chabin duli</i>” (roughs and -crowd) to enter uninvited. Henceforth during my stay in -that town I was comparatively untroubled.</p> - -<p>A very epidemic of diseases, however, seemed to have -smitten the place. Every one needed the doctor, and -old, almost forgotten complaints were resurrected and -rubbed up, or if none existed new ones were invented to -furnish an excuse for an introduction. People stood in -long rows from morning till night to see this popular -doctor, and had I been medicining for money, I might -have charged almost any price and filled high our coffers; -but I was only too glad to be able to tell them of the great -Physician, whose unspeakable gift is without money or -price.</p> - -<p>The magistrate treated us very kindly, and one day made -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span> -a dinner for Mr. Underwood at a little summer house outside -the city. Here, after partaking of various Korean -dainties, he asked him a great many questions about -America and Americans. My husband had thus a fine -opportunity to enlighten the man on our own mission and -work. He of course listened politely, but the Korean -noble is very difficult to reach. He is bound so rigidly by -so many social, religious and political fetters, that he -usually will not allow himself to consider for a moment -the possibility of casting them off.</p> - -<p>We were much disappointed at not finding here any of -the inquirers of whom we had been told so much, and to -examine and instruct whom Mr. Underwood had turned -so far aside from the main road to his final destination, -Weeju. We could only conclude that they had either been -too shy to approach us in the public quarters in which we -were located or that we had been entirely misinformed, -and we were forced very reluctantly to accept the latter as -a fact.</p> - -<p>The magistrate sent a number of presents to us ere we -left—a box of cigars, though we were not smokers, another -of candied Chinese ginger, honey, flour, beef, vinegar -and potatoes. These were articles which they found -by diligent inquiry from our attendants that we were fond -of. They scoured the country for potatoes, though except -in the mountains, where rice will not grow, few Koreans -cultivate or eat them.</p> - -<p>On leaving Kangai we could either take a long road -around the mountains, well known and much traveled, or -a short cut through and over them, much less frequented, -but which the magistrate assured us was now quite safe, -as he had recently passed through there himself and believed -that everything was now quiet and orderly. The -locality had a bad reputation, being off the main lines of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span> -travel in the recesses of the mountains, where escaped -criminals were wont to hide, and where a band of robbers -were said to have made their lair. But time pressed, work -was urgent, the magistrate’s statements were reassuring, -and we decided to take the shorter road. We were provided -with a police official and a soldier, who, our host -told us, would be respected and feared, and our entire -safety would thus be assured.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="CARRIER_OX" src="images/p064a.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CARRIER OX. <a href="#Page_54">PAGE 54</a></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="THE_OX-CART_OR_TALGOOGY" src="images/p064b.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE OX-CART OR TALGOOGY. <a href="#Page_197">PAGE 197</a></p></div> - -<p>Our road on leaving Kangai passed directly over the -mountains, through a region more sparsely populated and -more wildly beautiful than anything we had yet seen. -There were a few stray farms where sparse crops of potatoes -were raised, but the mountains hemmed us in closely -on all sides. They were covered with magnificent trees; -here and there a woodcutter was seen or heard, but the -evidences of human life were few. We had noticed with -interest through the mountain districts a large number of -people for these sparsely settled regions who were afflicted -with goitre.</p> - -<p>At night we reached a small village of scarce a half -dozen houses, established by the government as a place of -rest for travelers, since there was no other place within -convenient marching distance. A subsidy was given in -return for which these natives were bound to provide refreshments, -horses, oxen, or torches for those who bore -passports or official orders. But travel was rare and -they had come to consider their duty a tyrannical exaction, -their subsidy as their right; so when we arrived an ominous -silence reigned over the place, and we found it had -been completely deserted and that not long since everything -had been dropped and the people had fled and hidden. -This inhospitable reception was a very definite sign -of ill will, a plain refusal to give the shelter and assistance -they were so well paid to bestow. Of course it did not -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span> -auger well, but there was nothing to be done for the -present but to try to supply our needs. Fires were built, -horse provender found, and rice for coolies, mapoos and -attendants cooked, while for ourselves we fared well on -the contents of our box of stores. Some of the villagers -returned that night to their homes.</p> - -<p>Early next morning, having paid for what we had used, -we started away. But the necessity for haste, as our -stage that day was a long one, and our want of suspicion -of any serious danger led us into making a mistake; we -divided our small party, Mr. Underwood, the soldier and -myself hurrying on ahead on what we afterwards called -the Jericho road, leaving helpers and constable with the -pack-ponies and mapoos, which traveled more slowly, to -follow at a distance of several miles. We planned to -reach our noon rest place early, and order food and provender -(which it always takes an hour to cook) in advance, -so that all might be ready on their arrival and a speedy departure -insured. The day was a very fine one, the mountain -air exhilarating and delightful, and there were no -sightseers, so that Mr. Underwood and I walked together -a long distance, laughing and chatting and gathering the -pretty spring flowers, of which there were many, especially -the sweet-scented violets, which I was surprised to find -growing thus wild in the mountains. We arrived early -at the little hamlet which was our destination, and were -immediately installed in the one tiny inn the place could -boast.</p> - -<p>I am not sure how much time elapsed before our loads -appeared, but it was not very long, and when word was -brought that they were coming my husband slipped a -small revolver (our only weapon) from our traveling-bag -into his pocket. I understood too little of the language to -know what message he had received, but he told me that -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span> -some rough fellows were coming with our party and that -there might be trouble, in which case he might need the -revolver. He had received a message, while on the way to -the inn, that robbers had overtaken our people and were -following us. It seems that as soon as we were out of -sight a number of men had overtaken our loads and -charged one of our mapoos with theft, saying that they -had come to reclaim their stolen property. They bound -his hands, took possession of our ponies and loads, and -followed us to our inn. I peeped out through a crack -where the door stood ajar, and saw what was not reassuring, -a party of twenty or thirty country fellows, -wilder and ruder looking than any I had yet seen, their -hair falling in matted locks around their evil faces instead -of being fastened in the usual rough top-knot, and their -angry eyes fierce and bloodshot. Each carried a short -stout club, and they were all shouting in angry tones at -once, while our mapoo, his hands bound, my husband, the -constable, soldier and helper stood in the midst of this -wild throng. The tiny place seemed filled with the men -and the hubbub, while the frightened villagers peeped in -at the gate or over the wall; our brave chair coolies had -hidden away, for which we were later extremely thankful.</p> - -<p>The attacking party with loud and angry voices accused -our mapoo of having stolen their money, a hat and a -bowl; and when asked for evidence, pointed to the man’s -own shabby old hat, then on his head, to a rice bowl, -placed on top of the packs (he said by their hands), and -to our own large and heavy bag of Korean cash, fastened -and sealed just as we saw it placed on the pony’s back in -the morning. They refused to release the mapoo unless -these things were delivered up. Mr. Underwood told -them that the hat and money were ours, but that he would -go with them before a Korean magistrate and leave the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span> -whole matter to his decision, only they must unbind our -mapoo. This they would not hear to and continued to -insist on our giving them the money. My husband absolutely -refused to do this. Meanwhile, having placed himself, -with the brave little soldier at his side, in a narrow -space wide enough only for two, between the wall of the -compound and the house, he bade the latter cut the -mapoo’s bands. The mob threatened to kill him if he did -so, but he turned to Mr. Underwood and said, “Does the -great man bid me cut?” and receiving the affirmative -reply, he at once cut the ropes which bound the mapoo. -The ruffians made a rush, but Mr. Underwood, hastily -pushing the mapoo behind him, managed with the aid of -the soldier at his side in that narrow place to push one -man back against the others and keep them off for some -time.</p> - -<p>While his whole attention was thus engaged, however, -with those in front, some of the party found a way to the -rear, and coming up quietly behind, suddenly pinioned -his arms back and held him helpless, while the others carried -off our poor mapoo away outside the village, their -voices dying away in the distance. In the awful silence -that succeeded the uproar we waited what would follow. -After what seemed an age of suspense they returned without -the man and seized and carried off our constable. -Again that fateful silence, that agonizing suspense; again -another raid, and our other mapoo was dragged away. If -these and our other companions had shown half the courage -of the little soldier and made any effort to defend -themselves and us, and especially had the chair coolies -stood by us, the ruffians would very likely have been -beaten off. As it was, we were practically helpless, the -only question was who was to be attacked next. Mr. -Underwood was very doubtful of the wisdom of producing -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span> -the little revolver until the very last extremity. -One by one they carried away the members of our party -till only Mr. Underwood, the little soldier and I were left.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="A_KOREAN_VILLAGE" src="images/p068.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">A KOREAN VILLAGE</p></div> - -<p>We learned afterward that they were a set of wild men, -many of them fugitives from justice, probably an organized -band of robbers, into whose hands we had fallen, and -the fear that lay like ice at my heart was that when all our -friends and defenders were one by one removed they -would carry away and murder my husband too. So I -waited, scarcely breathing, for the next return. What I -dreaded they did in fact propose to do, saying it was the -right way to treat foreigners. They said they had robbed -and killed a Japanese officer some years ago, and having -never been punished, would be quite safe in treating us in -a similar way. On our return to Seoul we found by inquiry -that this was true, that while the government had -been forced to pay a heavy indemnity, they had never been -able to identify and punish the murderers. Had we been -overtaken before we reached the village perhaps our fate -would have been that of the Japanese; but when the affair -reached this point the villagers interfered and forbade. -They said they had allowed them to carry off our Korean -servants and our money, but should we, foreigners, known -at the palace and carrying a passport, be killed there, their -village would have to bear the penalty, and we must be -spared. They were only a few men, but probably people -who, knowing the haunts of the criminals and able to -identify them, had them to some extent in their power. -The men therefore sullenly filed away, or at least most -of them. One or two of the fiercest and most repulsive still -hung about, and one of them walked into my room (an -insult in the eyes of all Koreans) and insolently stared -until my husband, entering, ordered him out.</p> - -<p>The inn-keeper was a little man not five feet high, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span> -who did all in his power to reassure and make me comfortable, -as if such a thing were possible with our poor -friends in distress, if not dead, and our own fate only too -uncertain. It was twenty-five English miles to the nearest -magistracy, and doing our best, it would be difficult to -reach it that night; but we knew that if any help was to be -had for the captives it must be secured at once, aside from -the fact that we had no assurance of safety with so small -a party until within the walls of the yamen. So it was decided -to start as soon as possible. My scared chair coolies -had sneaked out of their hiding places in a sufficiently -well-preserved condition to be able to partake of a hearty -meal, and were soon ready to start. My husband had a -Korean pony which possessed the rare virtue of kicking -and biting every one who attempted to touch him, except -his mapoo and his master; to which quality we were indebted -for his being left us that day. One other pony we -were able to obtain, but as it of course could carry only -our rugs and bedding, the rest of our belongings we were -compelled to leave behind.</p> - -<p>We asked the host to take them into his house and take -charge of them, to which he willingly consented. His -son, in an agony of terror, begged him not to do so, as -the robbers had threatened to come and burn down his -house if he sheltered either us or our goods. The stout-hearted -little fellow, whose soul was much too large for -his body, laughed at the threat, and bidding one of the -very men who had attacked us give a lift, he carried our -trunks into his house and said he would take good care -of them for us until we should send for them. In the -meanwhile Mr. Underwood had been urging me to eat, -which I tried in vain to do, as a large lump of something -hard had become fixed in my throat, would neither go up -or down and no food could pass that way. In fact, I may -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span> -as well admit I was a very much frightened woman, and -my whole desire was to run away as fast and as far as -possible from that dreadful locality. It sounds, and is, -disgraceful, but as this is a narration of facts it may as -well be confessed. My chief grief was that we must leave -our poor friends behind. That, indeed, seemed cruel and -unthinkable, yet there appeared to be no other way to -relieve or help them.</p> - -<p>Just as we were ready to start two or three country people -came and asked for medicines for trifling complaints. -Was anything ever so ill-timed? Surely we could not -wait then, when the lives of our poor people as well as our -own perhaps depended on our speedy departure. But not -so, counseled my husband. These men and women -needed help which we could give. It was our duty to show -that we, as the servants of Jesus, had come in a spirit of -brotherhood and love, and it gave us a fine opening to deliver -a message and to distribute the printed Word—it -would not take long, and in any case were we not in God’s -hands? So not knowing what moment the ruffians might -return to drag us away to share the unknown fate of our -attendants, perhaps death, surely torture, I prescribed. -Alas! I hope none of my patients were poisoned; but with -so distracted a mind did I work that it was very difficult -to fix my thoughts on afflicted eyes, ears and throats, etc. -At length all had been seen, the medicines repacked, when -another patient appeared; again we waited, I diagnosed -and prescribed and Mr. Underwood prepared the medicine; -but still another and yet another appeared, till I began -to think we should not be able to leave that day at all. -At last, however, all were satisfied, and we started with -our race with time, considerably after two o’clock.</p> - -<p>We had twenty-five English miles to travel before we -could reach the nearest magistrate, on a road leading -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span> -through and over the mountains. It was wild and exceedingly -beautiful, but correspondingly rough and difficult. -Sometimes it was only the narrowest foot-path, -running along a ledge of rocks overhanging the stream; -sometimes it was almost lost among great boulders, which -must be skirted or surmounted. The loveliest wild flowers -were all around us, but for once they did not tempt us to -linger. We had barely left the confines of the village before -we saw in the road before us the prostrate and apparently -inanimate body of a man, whom we soon recognized -as our constable. He proved to be not dead, but -simply fainting from the cruel beating he had received. -He soon revived a little and begged us to hurry on for aid. -He was too much exhausted and bruised to be carried on -with us, unless we abandoned our purpose of reaching the -magistracy that night, which it seemed for the best good -of all to do; so most reluctantly we left him to the mercy -of the villagers. It was a sore alternative, but otherwise -help for the others would have been delayed many hours.</p> - -<p>When we had proceeded two or three miles farther we -saw a line of armed men half kneeling barring the road -in front of us, with their guns aimed apparently at us. I -of course concluded that my last hour had come, but we -decided that to advance with no signs of fear or doubt was -the only course to pursue, and found a few minutes later -that our formidable-looking opponents were only some -hunters waiting game that was being driven towards them -by others. Our road steadily ascended, and was more and -more difficult. Where it was worst I walked to relieve -the tired coolies, for even with four men and a light burden -it is no easy matter to carry a chair up the mountain -side on a warm April afternoon. When sunset was -almost due, and we had many miles yet to go, the coolies -insisted on waiting for supper. I dreaded the possible -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span> -necessity of being obliged to spend a part of the night unsheltered -in a country that seemed so hostile, added to -which the other thought of the necessity for speed made it -seem impossible and wicked to delay for such a paltry -thing as food.</p> - -<p>Why the men who had seemed so bitter and cruel at -noon had not followed and attacked our weakened party -I have never been able to entirely explain. I can only surmise -that, like most Asiatics, they were firmly convinced -that Mr. Underwood, in common with all foreigners, always -went heavily though secretly armed, and that any -attempt to injure our persons would result in awful -calamity. In addition, our passport and the well-known -fact that we were on very friendly relations with the -palace may have made them fear the consequence of harming -us, even though they were more than half resolved to -do so. More than this, the villagers who forbade them to -touch us probably knew their haunts and would be able to -hunt them out; and lastly, the fact that Mr. Underwood -stoutly resisted them and showed no signs of fear undoubtedly -had a marked effect upon their treatment of us. -Witness the fact that even the little soldier, the only man -of our native party who fought them and showed no fear, -was the only one of the Koreans who escaped unhurt. If -we had at any moment shown ourselves afraid of them -they would have taken it as sure proof that we were defenseless. -Had they seen our little revolver, and known -it for our only weapon, they would have counted us, as we -were, practically helpless, and our fate might have been -decided very differently.</p> - -<p>At the time I felt certain they were not through with -us, but having weakened our party, they would attack us -in the lonely road, far away from the friendly village, and -finish their work. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span></p> - -<p>We could scarcely hope to distance them, handicapped -as we were, but I felt we could not put too much space -between them and us, and many a backward glance I cast, -expecting to see them emerge any moment from some rock -or tree. Good for man or woman it is to feel one’s self -cast utterly on God’s mercy, and entirely in his hands, to -know one’s self beyond all human aid, with him alone to -look to for succor. As I turned to my husband that day -and said, “Well, there’s nothing left to do but to trust the -Lord,” it flashed over us both how commonly we only -trust him when there is nothing else to do, as if his help -were the last we should ever invoke, a last forlorn hope. -How far, far too much, we fall into the habit of trusting in -an arm of flesh and all the frail little human makeshifts -with which we encompass ourselves and fancy we are -safe. But how near he seems, how strong the uplift of -the “everlasting arms,” when the soul is left alone to -him.</p> - -<p>We were forced to wait some time while our tired -coolies fed, the darkness meanwhile coming on rapidly. -At length, rather than waste any more time, I started, -walking in advance and leaving the coolies to follow; eat -I could not. Soon the road divided into two, one a short -cut over the mountain, the other a much longer one -around it; we decided to take the shorter road, which also -leading through the woods became extremely dark, so that -in a short time we were obliged to call for torches, the -road too turning out to be very bad. It was barely a foothold, -circling and twisting down the precipitous mountain -side. Mr. Underwood soon concluded that he would -rather trust his own feet than his pony’s, as we heard the -displaced stones go rattling down into depths far below; -but as for me, though I would have much preferred to descend -from my chair, which had some time before overtaken -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span> -us, I was now so tired that it would have delayed -us too much and added nothing to my safety.</p> - -<p>Still it was rather an uncomfortable thing to be carried -along on the brink of a precipice, down a slippery, uncertain -path, in a darkness which was scarcely relieved, only -made visible, by the flickering torchlights, especially as -they invariably burned out before the next came up, and -we were obliged at times to proceed a quarter of a mile or -more—it always seemed more—in total darkness; and yet -worse than this is probably often experienced by people -traveling in the mountains for pleasure. At last, however, -after nine o’clock, Mr. Underwood came to the chair -and bade me look up. There above us on a hill in relief -against the starlit sky stood the walls and gate of the little -city. A city of refuge indeed, and we realized that night, -a little at least, of the joy of the hunted, who, closely pursued -by the avenger of blood, found himself safe within -protecting walls. The gates were hospitably open as our -messenger had arrived, and we were expected.</p> - -<p>We were told that it was a custom in many towns in -the north to set a lamp in each doorway as a token of -welcome to expected guests who for any reason were persons -of importance. As we passed down the street and -saw these bright little beacons before each door our hearts -were deeply touched. Although it was too late for a -formal audience, and the gate of the magistracy was -closed, my husband insisted on being admitted at once. -The request was granted and he hurried in and began the -usual ceremony of introducing himself, when a familiar -voice exclaimed, “And don’t you know me?” Then for -the first he looked closely into the face of the official before -him, and found that he was an old friend from -Seoul, who had often been entertained at our house.</p> - -<p>All was now easy. The events of the morning were -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span> -carefully related, with the request that the police should be -sent at once to rescue and bring back our people, reclaim -our goods and arrest, if possible, the criminals. This he -promised to do at once, and in fulfillment, immediately -ordered up the hunters, a guild of brave men who know -the woods and mountains for miles around, and who fear -nothing. His spokesman then called out to them in loud -tones, which thrilled through the clear starlit night, the -order to go at once, find and arrest the robbers, and bring -safely our attendants and goods in three days’ time, or -lose their heads. To which they replied in a sort of chant -in a minor key that they would so arrest, reclaim, and -bring back in three days’ time or would lose their heads. -The last syllable long drawn, rolled, rippled, and re-echoed, -seeming to die away somewhere among the stars. The -condition about the loss of their heads was, of course, -merely for rhetorical effect, or very likely the echo of an -old custom, the address and reply being probably a form -hundreds of years old. At any rate, though they returned -after three days had passed, their mission not fully accomplished, -there was no talk of beheading, or thought of it in -any quarter.</p> - -<p>It may be noted that not much has been told in this -chapter of Christian work and its results, but it must be -remembered that conditions were somewhat unfavorable. -Owing to the fears of our American minister, Mr. Underwood -had been forbidden to preach in the country at this -time, so that his work was limited to studying the country -and the people and their possibilities, laying plans for -future work, examining, instructing and encouraging converts -and supervising and testing the work of native -helpers. As for me, the effort to make a favorable impression -through the treatment of the sick and the distribution -of tracts was the limit of my usefulness. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Our Stay in Wewon—We Give a Dinner—Our Guests—Magistrates -Propose that we Travel with a Chain-Gang—Our Trip -down the Yalu—The Rapids—Contrast between Korean and -Chinese Shores—We Enter Weju—The Drunken Magistrate—Presents -and Punishments—Unpleasant Experiences with -Insincere People—Rice Christians—The Scheming Colporter—The -Men Baptized in Weju—The Lost Passport—Another -Audience at the Palace—Queen’s Dress and Ornaments—Korean -Summer House—The Pocket Dictionary—Our -Homes.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Here, then, in the hospitable little town of Wewon we -rested, made friends whom we hoped to draw into the -friendship of our Leader, and ministered to sick bodies -and souls, as opportunity was given. Here in a few days -were brought our boxes and a few of the men who had -attacked us. Still later, for they were unable to travel for -some time, came our poor attendants, who had twice been -cruelly beaten with clubs and left tied up all night in a -painful and agonizing position. The mapoo’s arm was -broken, and our helper never entirely recovered from the -injury his back had suffered. Those of the criminals who -were found were sent up to the provincial capital to be -punished by the governor.</p> - -<p>Before leaving Wewon we gave a dinner to the magistrate -in order to gratify his curiosity and that of his -friends. We wished to show in some way our appreciation -of his kindness and hospitality, and Mr. Underwood, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span> -who had considerable experience and much skill in camp -and bachelor cooking, undertook, in the face of some odds, -to manage the matter; and we found our ingenuity well -taxed in evolving a feast from the now scanty remnants of -our larder and the few obtainable native articles out of -which a foreign meal could be manufactured. However, -we prided ourselves that we did quite well, with some six -courses, including soup, fish, a bewitching little roast pig, -well decorated with wreaths and berries, served with apple -sauce and stuffed with potatoes, chestnuts and onions. -Our dessert, marmalade spread on crackers, was sufficiently -light to please the most æsthetic, and we introduced -a novelty, coffee sweetened with honey, never whispering -that our sugar was gone. The magistrate came with a -huge crowd of retainers, who filled our tiny room and -flowed over into the kitchen, peered into and fingered -everything, and nearly wrecked the courses, which our -overtried servant was attempting under many difficulties -to serve. With nothing but a bowl of charcoal in lieu of -a stove, and no proper kitchen utensils, it was by no means -easy to achieve such a feat of culinary art in the far interior -of the hermit kingdom, but we did not stop to consider -a little inconvenience or bother, nor regret a little -extra work where we could thereby make or strengthen -friendship with Koreans. Trifling as it may look for missionaries -to be planning <i>menus</i> and giving dinners to -country magistrates, there are more ways of furthering -the cause than preaching only. The hearts of the people -must be won, and he who wins most friends wins the -readiest and most attentive audience, one inclined in advance -to favor and accept what he has to teach, and nothing -is trifling which helps.</p> - -<p>After the return of our men and belongings, and as -soon as the former were able to travel, we felt we must -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span> -hurry on to Weju. The magistrate of Wewon proposed -that when we departed, the eight criminals who had been -captured should be chained together, two and two, and led -in advance of our company during the rest of our journey. -Thus should we march through the land like conquerors, -instilling awe and terror in all hearts, and none who -looked on this tableau would ever again dare assail a -foreigner. Now this was of course exactly the impression -that we wished to produce as missionaries! We pictured -ourselves going about preaching the cross, with such an -object lesson as this, trying to win the hearts of the people, -while driving their compatriots before us in chains, and -we enjoyed the vision hugely. It would hardly have been -possible to have obtained the relief of our Koreans without -the arrest of the criminals, several of whom were -identified as notorious men, whose seizure was necessary -to the peace and safety of the community. But we never -would have had them punished on our own account or to -gratify revenge, so we politely thanked the magistrate for -his tactful suggestion, but begged to be excused.</p> - -<p>We found the town of Chosan, where we stopped on the -evening after leaving Wewon, quite a unique and interesting -little place. It is situated near the Yalu, or, as the -Chinese call it, the Amno River, which forms the boundary -line between Korea and China. Two “<i>kisus</i>,” a sort -of soldier police, were sent out three miles to meet us, and -preceded us into the town, blowing trumpets all the way, -to our helpless annoyance and disgust, for they either -could not or would not understand that this sort of demonstration -was most distasteful to us both.</p> - -<p>As at Kangai, more and more soldiers met us at intervals. -There were flags, music, crowds, and again we -entered the town like a circus. The crowds, however, -were kept well back, the place was much smaller, and we -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span> -were undisturbed at the magistracy. As soon as we -entered the house a small tray was brought, with cups of -hot ginger tea, most restful and refreshing, the kind -thought of the magistrate, who, unlike others, did not -force himself at once upon us, but considerately waited -until we were a little rested and refreshed. We found -here a custom which we had not met elsewhere, that of -sounding a bell every morning at a certain hour, when all -morning fires must be extinguished, not to be relit until -late in the afternoon.</p> - -<p>We were compelled to go on some miles farther to obtain -a boat for our short trip down the Yalu. In rainy -weather the rapids between this point and Weju are rather -dangerous, but at this time it was only a swift current, -which made the trip the pleasanter. We found a Korean -junk, which served our purpose as well as any that were -to be had, which was flat-bottomed, and thirty feet long -by three wide. This would carry our attendants, our -packs, two or three boatmen and ourselves. Some mats -were rigged on bamboo poles above us for an awning, and -others stretched across the middle of the boat for a partition, -which left one half for the use of the natives, while -we reserved the other for ourselves. Here we spent three -days and nights; during the latter, however, we always anchored -near the shore. Provisions in plenty were obtained -from the villages we passed, when a great many people -came out to kugung; but here we had the advantage, and -while quite able to talk to them from the boat, were not -forced to permit more than we liked to examine us and -our belongings.</p> - -<p>One night we were wakened with the cry of “Pull, -pull!” “Fire, fire!” and found the boat was on fire. Some -one had fallen asleep while smoking and dropped hot -ashes among combustibles; but we were close to the shore, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span> -there was plenty of water and people to use it. The blaze -was soon out, and nothing thrilling came to pass. Thus -was it ever with our adventures. While danger in one -form or another made itself known, as if to prove beyond -a doubt our Father’s care, we were kept as safe and unharmed -as a child in its mother’s arms; and were we not -with the everlasting arms underneath us?</p> - -<p>As we drifted down the Amno those lovely spring days, -with China lying on one side of us and Korea on the other, -the contrast was wonderfully marked, almost as much, indeed, -as if the two nations had been separated by oceans -rather than a river. This difference too was almost as -marked in the physical features of the country as in national -customs. On the Korean shore the trees were -mostly of pine; on the China side, of oaks and other deciduous -varieties. The Korean peasants’ huts were of -mud, straw thatched; the Chinese houses of brick or stone, -roofed with tile. Koreans dressed in white were plowing -with oxen; Chinese farmers in blue were plowing -with horses. Rhododendrons gave a lovely roseate tinge -to the rocks and hills on either side. It was easy for the -passing traveler to see which country bore the greater appearance -of prosperity and thrift.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the 27th of April we reached Weju. -Fortunately no official notice had gone before, and there -were no trumpets, drums, harps, sackbuts, psalteries and -all kinds of music at hand to make our lives a burden. A -chair was hired for Mr. Underwood, and in the kindly -protection of the deepening twilight we surreptitiously entered -these conveyances and were carried into the city as -quietly and unobtrusively as happy common folks.</p> - -<p>And now, to return a little, soon after leaving Pyeng -Yang we had met a Mr. Yi, of Weju, an agent of the Bible -Society, then on his way to Seoul; but when he heard -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span> -where we were going he concluded to return with us. Mr. -Underwood was at that time trying to decide whether -Weju or Pyeng Yang would be the better place for a sub-station, -with a half-formed plan to purchase a house, to -which we could go when itinerating, in charge of which -we might place a care-taker, who would also be helper, intending -to select from among the converts in that region, -if possible, one of the most capable and earnest. This plan -was in part communicated to Mr. Yi, and seemed to strike -him most favorably. He shortly proposed to precede us -to Weju and select such a place. Mr. Underwood, however, -told him plainly that he must on no account purchase -or promise to purchase any such house for us; that, as our -plans were indefinite, we could not buy until we had seen -the city and the Christians, and, in a word, until we had -some data by which to decide whether we needed such a -house there at all. And even then the locality and the -house must first be seen by us.</p> - -<p>We, however, consented that he should go in advance -and arrange at some inn or Christian home for our entertainment, -so that we could be quietly and quickly housed -on entering the town. We also consented that some inquiries -should be made as to what houses in localities convenient -for work were purchasable, and at what price, so -that we might have something definite to consider on -reaching there. Accordingly he left us before we reached -Kangai and hurried on to Weju. When we arrived, therefore, -he met us and conducted us with much éclat to a very -commodious and nice bungalow, which he said was his -own. Here we were introduced to his consumptive wife, -his aged father, and his little children.</p> - -<p>According to custom, we sent our passport to the magistrate -as soon as we arrived. This scarcely reached his -office before an order was sent out for the arrest of our -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span> -servants and helper, who were forthwith dragged off to -the yamen, beaten and locked up. We had hardly received -this disconcerting news when it was announced that some -messengers had arrived from his excellency with a very -generous present of chickens, eggs, nuts, fruit and other -edibles. These articles again had barely been received and -the messengers not well out of sight when officers arrived -with orders to arrest our host and have him beaten. This -very contradictory conduct was certainly disquieting, and -we were at a loss to conjecture what it meant.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="A_BUTCHER_SHOP" src="images/p082a.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">A BUTCHER SHOP</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="BASKET_SHOP" src="images/p082b.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">BASKET SHOP</p></div> - -<p>However, we had not long to wait. The deputy or -vice-magistrate was shortly afterwards announced, and -before he left, he gave Mr. Underwood to understand that -his honor the magistrate had been imbibing rather freely -and was not altogether responsible for his honorable (?) -conduct, and that he, the deputy, hoped, therefore, that we -would overlook his slight playfulness in arresting and -beating our poor innocent people. These little aberrations -were, he said, quite frequent, and of course when once we -understood what was to be expected and the reason, no -concern need be felt. We were, of course, immensely comforted -and soothed by this explanation, and rested with -quiet minds in the happy consciousness that it was entirely -uncertain what sort of magisterial and honorable earthquake -or cyclone might strike us next; assured it would -be all right, as he intended no harm in his sane moments. -The poor deputy, in a strait betwixt two (the magistrate -near at hand, and the Foreign Office in Seoul, represented -by our passport), had been trying to smooth over the -magistrate’s uncivil reception of the passported foreigners, -by offerings of said chickens, eggs, etc., and this was the -explanation of the strange combination of presents and -punishments.</p> - -<p>Drunkenness is, I am sorry to say, very common in -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span> -Korea. The people do not, as in Japan and China, raise -tea, and even the wealthiest have apparently only recently -learned the use of either tea or coffee, which the common -people are far too poor to buy. Milk, strange to say, they -have never used, and they are therefore without a harmless -beverage which they can offer their friends on convivial -occasions. As it is, they resort only too generally to -wines and some very strong alcoholic drinks, which they -make themselves.</p> - -<p>We had had Christian workers at Weju for some -months, one of whom Mr. Underwood had appointed and -two who had constituted themselves such, of whom we -were doubtful then, and later had cause to be more so, and -who now hoped to prove themselves so useful to us that -we would give them some good-paying position in the -mission. Several of our experiences at Weju were very -bitter and disappointing to us, for the insincerity of men -whom we trusted was made clear, and yet at the same time -they were instructive, for they taught us to be very slow -and cautious in investing men with responsibility, and to -be very guarded both in receiving converts and in using -money, and helped to strengthen us in those ideas of rigid -self-support which Mr. Underwood had already, from the -study of Dr. Nevius’ book, begun to consider deeply and -to some extent follow. One of the self-appointed begged -us to start a Christian school in a place where as yet there -was no opening for it, and to put him in as teacher with a -good salary. “But,” Mr. Underwood objected, “we are -not yet ready for such a school, and I cannot start a school -merely to give you a living.” Such unconcern for his -material interest grieved him sorely. Long he pleaded his -need and begged with great naïveté that we would then -inform him how he was to subsist, with refreshing guilelessness -rolling the whole of the responsibility of his existence -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span> -upon us. We were obliged to tell him with some -emphasis that we were not here to provide incomes for -indolent men, but to further the gospel.</p> - -<p>Another man whom we had trusted had given us -altogether exaggerated, and we feared intentionally false, -accounts of the interest in Kangai, of which we had failed -to find any signs. He did not suppose we would go there -to verify the reports which were to accrue to his credit. -But another and still more annoying experience awaited -us. The agent Yi told us that the house we were in belonged -to us, that in spite of our repeated injunctions he -had bought it for us, and had sold his own little home in -part payment and installed his family here. This was now -the only shelter of his aged father, his sick wife and his -helpless little ones. The scheming fellow had indeed -placed us in a serious predicament. To turn these weak -and helpless people into the street for the sins of this man -was not to be thought of; to allow the man to profit by his -dishonest trick would be to encourage every covetous -hypocrite who sought to make gain out of the church and -to misuse consecrated funds. Fortunately within ten days -after a sale the money or deeds may be demanded back, -and so we made him ask back his own house and return -the one we had used, with a slight extra payment, to the -original owner. It is due to the British Bible Society to -say that they were of course deceived in this man, as we -are all liable to be at times, no matter how careful. The -distance from his employers at which he was working -made supervision almost impossible.</p> - -<p>We were visited by a great many people, mostly men, -who seemed deeply interested in Christianity and eager -for baptism. Over one hundred such applicants presented -themselves. Mr. Underwood examined them with great -care, and found that all had studied the Scriptures and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span> -tracts with great assiduity, and nearly all were well informed -in the cardinal truths of the gospel. One man was -quite a phenomenon of a rather useless kind of Biblical -erudition. He knew the number of chapters and verses in -the Old and New Testament (Chinese, of course), the number -of characters, the number of times the name of God -and Christ occur, and a variety of similar facts, showing -he had an extremely facile memory, but proving nothing -with regard to his conversion. I could not help regarding -the poor man with compassion. It seemed too bad that -he should have taken so much pains and spent so many -hours of toil to gain non-essentials when the sweet bread -of life and honey out of the rock might have been had so -simply and easily, had he only really wanted them, had -he learned enough of their wondrous value to desire them. -I am afraid that this man and some of the others that we -questioned had no inkling of what Christianity really is, -but supposed it was a philosophy, fine and good, no doubt, -which if adopted would bring them in touch with rich and -influential foreigners, and find them speedy employment -as teachers, helpers and what not.</p> - -<p>What we anxiously, longingly sought for in these applicants -were the signs of a sincere change of heart, of a -real love for the God who was crucified to save them, and -of the fruit of this belief in a change of life and character. -Out of the hundred applicants we selected thirty-three, not -those who answered most glibly or showed the greatest -information, but those who gave almost unmistakable evidence -of sincerity of heart and true knowledge of Jesus. -I say almost, for it is well-nigh impossible not to make -mistakes at times.</p> - -<p>We had been forbidden to baptize in Korea, under our -passport, and we all crossed the river into China, and there -held a communion service, a very solemn and deeply felt -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">87</span> -occasion to us, and Mr. Underwood baptized these men, -the only ones baptized during the whole trip, a larger number -than he ever received before, or after that, for some -years. These numbers, rather large so early in the history -of the mission, were afterward much exaggerated by rumor. -No one was able to visit this little company of newborn -souls for two years. No response from the church at -home to urgent pleas for help; exacting demands of work -in Seoul, sickness which took us to America, made it impossible -for any one to go and strengthen, encourage and -uphold them. With no pastor, few books but Chinese, -they were sadly neglected, and humanly speaking, it -would hardly be surprising if they were scattered and lost -as sheep without a shepherd. We had hoped to visit them -at least once a year, but had no idea how the work near -home would grow and how impossible it would be to leave. -These men were not of the city of Weju, but from some -little hamlets at some distance, some of them fifteen or -twenty miles away. Several of the men were already -well known to Mr. Underwood and had been under instruction -for more than a year, and some had been reported -ready for baptism by Mr. Saw, who had been employed -by Mr. Ross when he came to Seoul three years -before.</p> - -<p>This is to show that a horde of new professors, of whom -we knew nothing, were not rashly baptized in zeal to increase -the list of church-members, as was stated by persons -who were ignorant of the real facts. All were rigidly -examined, all had been long prepared, and although two -missionaries who paid a visit to Weju on their way to -China two years later, and one who made a long stay eight -or nine years later, said they found none of these Christians, -we believe God was able to keep his own. It would -not be easy, knowing neither the names of the men nor -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span> -the villages where they lived, to find them, especially when -we remember the roving, almost nomadic character of the -people, most of whom had probably moved quite away, -the Japanese war having worked marvelous changes. -More than half of the population of Weju and vicinity -seemed to melt away during that disastrous war.</p> - -<p>When our work in Weju was done we started on our -return trip to many waiting duties in the capital. The -magistrate had not restored our passport, so we sent for -it, but it was not forthcoming. We waited some time, and -again meekly requested it; still it was withheld, and at -length we learned that on the night of our arrival the -magistrate had been in such an irresponsible condition -that he had no recollection to whose care he had confided -it, and, in fact, <i>the passport was lost</i>. This was indeed a -serious state of affairs! To travel without one would involve -great risk, to wait for another from Seoul would -take more time than we could afford to spare. And, indeed, -whether we should believe that it was really lost, or -that this was only the excuse of an inimical magistrate -who meant to detain us there for some dark purpose, was -a question. After some annoying delay, however, it was -found and duly returned, and with sad farewells from our -friends, but with the hope and intention of returning soon -to feed these lambs of God’s fold we left Weju, to <i>which -we have never as yet been permitted to go back</i>.</p> - -<p>Mr. Underwood and I discussed long and earnestly on -our return trip the comparative merits of Pyeng Yang -and Weju for the establishment of a sub-station. In the -one the opening was more hopeful, the other held the more -advantageous position. We at length concluded to leave -the matter open and allow future events to decide where -we should start our station. We returned to Seoul by the -main road, with as few delays as possible, and had an uneventful -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span> -trip, troubled by no mobs or robbers. The season -was somewhat advanced and the inns were very hot, but -the country was beautiful, with many varieties of the loveliest -flowers. Lilies of the valley we found growing in -masses not ten feet from the roadside, lilacs, eglantine, -sweet violets and quantities of other sweet-scented flowers -filled my chair. We found ourselves safely at home near -the middle of May, having been absent over two months, -traveled more than a thousand miles, treated over six -hundred patients, and talked with many times that -number.</p> - -<p>We were dismayed to find on our return that one of the -too loyal missionaries had, in supposed obedience to the -edict, closed the little room, where services had been held -with the natives, and they were worshiping secretly in -one or another of their own little homes. We at once -threw open our own house and regularly gathered the -Christians there, till all the mission were willing to use the -little chapel again.</p> - -<p>Shortly after our return the queen invited me to a -private audience, in order to give me a very unique pair of -gold bracelets, which she had ordered made for a wedding -present, and which had not been ready before we went to -the country. She also gave a ring set with a beautiful -pearl for my husband. She kindly asked about our trip, -and was, as usual, all that was friendly and considerate. -I wish I could give the public a true picture of the queen -as she appeared at her best, but this would be impossible, -even had she permitted a photograph to be taken, for her -charming play of expression while in conversation, the -character and intellect which were then revealed, were -only half seen when the face was in repose. She wore her -hair like all Korean ladies, parted in the center, drawn -tightly and very smoothly away from the face and knotted -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span> -rather low at the back of the head. A small ornament -(indicating her rank, I suppose, as I have never seen any -other woman wear one) was worn on the top of the head; -fastened by a narrow black band. One or two very ornamental -long hairpins of gold filigree set with coral, pearls -or jewels were stuck through the knot of hair at the back. -She usually wore a yellow silk <i>chogerie</i>, or jacket waist, -like those worn by all Korean women, fastened with a -pearl or amber button and a very long flowing blue silk -skirt. All her garments were of silk, exquisitely dainty.</p> - -<p>Her majesty seemed to care little for ornaments, and -wore very few. No Korean women wear earrings (except -young girls in the north, who wear a large silver -hoop), and the queen was no exception, nor have I ever -seen her wear a necklace, a brooch, or a bracelet. She -must have had many rings, but I never saw her wear more -than one or two of European manufacture, set with not so -many nor so large diamonds as numbers of American -women of moderate means and station often display. She -had any number of beautiful watches, which she never -wore. According to Korean custom, she carried a number -of filigree gold ornaments decorated with long silk tassels -fastened at her side. So simple, so perfectly refined were -all her tastes in dress, it is difficult to think of her as belonging -to a nation called half civilized.</p> - -<p>On the occasion of this visit she gave me a fresh proof -of her thoughtful kindness. I was wearing my wedding -dress and very thin satin slippers, and as I was leaving -it suddenly began to rain. My chair was nearly half a mile -distant, waiting outside the gate, according to rule. The -queen, whom nothing escaped, noted the rain, and my difficulty. -She came in person to the window and imperatively -ordered word to be sent to the gate for my chair to be -brought to the waiting room. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="PLEASURE_HOUSE" src="images/p090.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">PLEASURE HOUSE. <a href="#Page_22">PAGE 22</a></p></div> - -<p>But this was too much. The officials who attended me -there said that such an exception as this in my favor would -awaken bitter criticism and jealousy, that one of the -highest officials in the land was at that moment waiting -at the gate for the shower to pass so that he could attend -at an audience, and would be obliged to walk through the -rain. They therefore begged that I would wave the fulfilment -of the queen’s order and walk to my chair. I saw -the reason and the good sense in their protest, and of -course at once consented, as much comforted by the -queen’s kind intention as if my slippers and silk gown had -been well protected. This rule for the exclusion of chair -coolies was changed soon after, and my chair was brought -close to the royal apartments.</p> - -<p>That summer was passed on a high bluff on the banks -of the river, in a Korean summer house, which belonged to -the king, which their majesties had allowed our mission to -use a previous year, and which favor was now extended to -us. It was situated on the rocks about fifty feet above the -water, and was one of those charming, cool and picturesque -summer refuges which Koreans understand building -to perfection. Its roof, with artistically upward curving -corners, was supported on several stout pillars, but its -walls were all windows of light wood, in fancy open-work -designs, which were covered with paper on one side, and -which, being made to swing out and hook to the roof, -formed a very effective awning. Here with a breeze always -sweeping through, effectively screened from the sun, -with a perfect view of the mountains and the Han River, -with its lovely green valley, Mr. Underwood worked -nearly all summer on his small dictionary, Mr. Gale or -Mr. Hulbert giving him much useful help at times. My -husband had been at work on a larger dictionary, which he -planned to make a very full and complete one, for nearly -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span> -three years, and had already many thousands of definitions -of words with synonyms. It was to be both Korean-English -and English-Korean, not like the French, merely -the Korean into the foreign tongue. It was a darling -scheme of his heart, on which he was putting all the time -that could be spared from direct mission work; but persuaded -by his brethren that something was sorely needed -immediately by missionaries now beginning to arrive, he -laid his <i>magnum opus</i> aside for the present, not without -regret, but without a backward look, and working without -cessation from early dawn into the night hours all that -long summer, prepared and finished the small dictionary, -for the convenience at the present indigent moment of -those who were struggling with the language.</p> - -<p>The following fall, the loved secretary, Dr. Mitchell, -and Mrs. Mitchell visited our mission and gave us all -much advice and help, for which we were most grateful. -We were not then quite so well housed as now. Our -homes were mud-walled and rather damp, often leaking -badly in rainy season and admitting much frosty air -through numerous cracks in the winter. Many of our -windows were not glazed, but merely covered with paper. -During the doctor’s visit there came one night a heavy -storm of wind and rain, which beat against the window -near our bed, and thoroughly demolished it, the rain pouring -in on the floor. The roof leaked over us, but with -umbrellas and waterproofs we kept quite dry. In the -morning, however, at the sight of the flooded floor and the -paper windows hanging in shreds, Dr. Mitchell gave us a -severe reprimand for our carelessness, warning us that -missionaries are far too expensive commodities to be so -ill protected. A lesson it were well for all young missionaries -to learn, but which, as a rule, alas! they are too slow -to heed. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>An Audience at the Palace—Dancing Girls—Entertainment -Given after the Audience—Printing the Dictionary and -Grammar—A Korean in Japan—Fasting to Feast—Death -of Mr. Davies—Dr. Heron’s Sickness—Mrs. Heron’s Midnight -Ride—Dr. Heron’s Death—Difficulty in Getting a -Cemetery Concession—Forced Return to America—Compensations—Chemulpo -in Summer—The “Term Question” -in China, Korea and Japan—Difficulties in the Work.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Early in the fall of 1889 I was invited to another audience -at the palace, with some of the foreign state officials -and their wives. After the audience a dinner was served, -and later, a performance by dancing girls was given. -And right here I must say, that although on several occasions -at the palace I have seen dancing girls in these -entertainments, I have never beheld anything at such -times in their actions that was improper or even undignified. -Their motions are graceful, usually slow, circling -around hand in hand or in various combinations of pretty -figures. They wear high-necked and long-sleeved jackets -or coats, and long skirts, the figure quite concealed by the -fashion of the dress. And yet, thus to appear in public, -allowing their faces to be seen by strangers, is the gravest -breach of propriety in the eyes of all Koreans, and these -girls are, alas! as depraved as women can be. Like those -of their class in all countries, they are the most pitiable -and hopeless of women, but unlike those who have thrown -themselves away, they deserve small blame mixed with -the compassion one feels for them, for these poor girls -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span> -have been sold by their parents into their awful lives, and -were given no choice of their destiny. Many a poor little -Korean child is sold into slavery for a few bags of rice, -to be trained as a dancing girl, used as a common drudge, -or married to a man she has never seen, while she is hardly -larger than our little ones playing with their dolls in the -nursery.</p> - -<p>But to return to our palace entertainment, from which -I have made a rather long digression. The guests were -seated on the veranda, or “maru,” in front of the dining -hall, and in the grounds before us appeared a pretty boat -with wide spread sails, in which were seated some gaily -dressed girls. Others now appeared, dancing to slow -native music, a stately figure, almost in minuet fashion, -with waving of flowing sleeves and banners. They were -evidently the spirits of the wind, and the boat was waiting -the favoring breeze. The music grew quicker, while -faster and faster stepped the dancers, more and more -swiftly fanning the sails with sleeves, skirts and scarfs, till -at last the boat slowly moved forward, and with its attendants -moved out of sight. When the boat had been -thus gracefully fanned away, a couple of mammoth lotus -plants were brought out, with great closed blossoms seen -among the leaves.</p> - -<p>Following them came a pair of gigantic storks, extremely -well simulated. The birds came forward slowly, -advancing, retreating, sideling, mincing, waiving their -heads and long bills about, all in tune to the music, wavering -and uncertain, yet evidently with some definite, not to -be resisted, purpose in mind. At length, after long hesitation, -one of them plucked up courage and gave a vigorous -peck at a lotus bud, which forthwith burst open and -released a pretty little child, who had been curled up at its -heart. The other stork, with similar good fortune, discovered -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span> -another little one. I was much interested to find -this stork and baby myth here in Korea, centuries old; but -those hoary nations of the East are ever reaching down -into the apparently limitless depths of their remote past, -and dragging forth some fresh surprise whereby to convince -us there is nothing new under the sun.</p> - -<p>Late in November of the same year we went to Japan -to publish Mr. Underwood’s grammar and dictionary, as -there were no means of printing such books in Seoul. In -Japan we were forced to wait while type was made, and -during this delay Mr. Underwood perfected the grammar, -adding what is now the first part. A Korean teacher or -scholar accompanied us, but great was his distaste for -Japan and all her ways, and herculean our toils and -efforts, as each steamer sailed to prevent his returning to -Korea.</p> - -<p>Rice is the staple article of food in China, Korea and -Japan, but it is cooked and eaten differently in all three -countries, and no one of either will, except under dire -necessity, eat the rice prepared by one of the other -nationalities. Our literary assistant was of the <i>Yangban</i>, -or noble class, he had never soiled his hands in -labor, or cooked anything for himself, but after enduring -a Japanese hotel with many and doleful complaints for a -very short time, he begged us to find him a room and let -him keep house for himself. That a <i>Yangban</i> should -make a proposition like this showed to what straits he had -been brought, so we at once complied with his request, and -from that time on he prepared his rice with his own -gentlemanly hands. He was a Chinese scholar of fine attainments, -and his learning was much respected in high -Japanese circles. He was often invited out, and was distinguished -by an invitation to the house of the governor -of the city. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span></p> - -<p>Now, when Koreans attend a feast, they expect to finish -an incredible amount of food on the spot (nor is it -altogether unusual, in addition, to carry away as much in -their sleeves and hands as strength will permit). Sometimes -they fast for several days previous in order to do full -justice to the entertainment, and generally, I believe, quantity -is considered of far more import than quality. Not so -with the Japanese, among whom our teacher visited. If -his word was to be believed, they had developed the -æsthetic idea quite to the other extreme, and provided a -few tiny cups and dishes of supposedly delicate and rare -viands for their guests. So on this occasion to which I -refer, it was almost pathetic, the poor Korean fasting to -feast, with visions of quarts of rice and vermicelli soup, -pounds of hot rice bread, nuts, fruits, fresh, dried and candied; -meats with plenty of hot sauce, “<i>kimchi</i>,” or sauerkraut, -etc., etc. Alack the day! A few microscopic cups -of tea, a few tiny dishes of articles which knew not Korea -(among them no doubt raw fish), and for the rest, a feast -of reason and flow of soul. Next day, a wiser and a -thinner man, he sadly told Mr. Underwood that he now -understood why Japanese prospered, while Koreans grew -poor. “Koreans,” said he, “earn a hundred cash a day -and eat a thousand cash worth, while Japanese, on the contrary, -earn a thousand cash a day and eat a hundred cash -worth.” Never were truer words spoken, with regard to -the Japanese at least. If these people have a virtue, which -their worst enemies cannot gainsay, it is their industry -and thrift.</p> - -<p>Just what is the ordinary number of slight earthquakes -in Japan per month or year, I do not know, but during -the six months of our stay they averaged one every three -days. During one twenty-four hours of our experience -there were eleven. They were not, of course, severe, but -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span> -sufficient to swing doors, set chandeliers clattering and -rocking chairs in motion,, and to convince me more than -once that the house was on the point of tumbling about -our ears.</p> - -<p>Just before we returned to Korea we were shocked to -hear of the sudden death by smallpox of Rev. Mr. Davies, -a brother greatly beloved in the Lord, who had arrived -early the previous summer and had made phenomenal -progress in the language, whose gifts and learning were -unusual, but were all excelled by his spirituality and consecration. -His zeal never permitted him to spare himself -in the least. He seemed to link himself at once, heart -to heart, with Mr. Underwood, and together they planned, -studied, worked and prayed for the salvation of the people. -It was as if death had entered our own family when news -came of his loss, and a black pall seemed to lie across our -path. We knew God does all things well, and his ways -are not our ways, nor his thoughts ours, and yet in the -weakness of the flesh, which cannot see, with all those unsaved -millions dying around us, we felt we could not spare -Mr. Davies, and to us, to whom he had been confidant, -sympathizer, counselor and friend, the personal loss was -bitter. But we have learned that often when we think, or -come in any way to feel that his cause depends on a man, -God removes him, to teach us that his cause depends on no -man, that he can bless the efforts of the weakest and poorest -and feed five thousand from the basket of a little boy.</p> - -<p>On April 26, 1890, the books were finished, and we -started at once for Korea, reaching here in May. Soon -after our return from Japan we were visited by Dr. and -Mrs. Nevius. We all recognized Dr. Nevius as a king -among men, with a mind so clear and broad, a spirit so -genial, a heart so full of charity and with a record of such -long years of faithful labor that we were glad to sit at his -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span> -feet. The sense of ignorance, incompetence, inexperience, -combined with a realization of awful responsibility, is -almost overwhelming to the young missionary on a new -field, and it is only by constantly leaning on the almighty -arm that he is kept from despondence and despair. At -such times the advice of such an elder brother is invaluable.</p> - -<p>The little missions had by this time been reinforced by -several arrivals, and the following summer, which was -very warm, many of them went to Namhan (Southern -fortress) to spend the hot months. Seoul lies in a basin, -encircled by mountains, and is extremely unhealthy in -summer, its festering pools and ditches overflowing with -filth, steaming a very witches brew of evils upon the sickened -air, with odors unspeakable and undreamed of in -civilized lands. Namhan is about seventeen miles distant -from Seoul, on top of a mountain, not quite two thousand -feet high. It lies on the further side of the Han River, -but is fairly easy of access, reached by a steep road winding -up the mountain.</p> - -<p>Dr. Heron had taken his family there, and frequently -traveled back and forth to his duties in Seoul, which was -doubtless too much for his strength in those hot and -humid days. He was soon attacked by dysentery, which -did not at first seem serious, and was consequently ignored -too long. It finally developed into the most malignant -form of the disease, which resisted every effort of the physicians, -Drs. Scranton and MacGill, who were unremitting -in the struggle in which they were steadily worsted. As -soon as the symptoms began to look grave Mrs. Heron -was sent for. In great distress and alarm, she set off that -very evening, in a terrible storm of rain and wind, a very -carnival, no torch or lantern could be kept alive, the wind -howling around the frail chair as if to tear it from its -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span> -bearers’ hands. The roads, steep and difficult in pleasant -weather, were really dangerous when slippery with mud -and water, in darkness so absolute that not one step in advance -could be seen, while in the woods and valleys the -coolies were sometimes up to their waists in water. -Drenched to the skin, this poor afflicted young wife arrived -at her home near morning, after traveling all night -in this terrible storm, to find her husband fatally ill. After -a little more than three weeks’ sickness and great suffering, -Dr. Heron passed away, to the grief and loss of the -whole foreign community, as well as that of the Koreans -(and they were many) with whom he had come in contact, -to all of whom he had endeared himself by untiring kindness.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="GATE_IN_THE_WALL_OF_NAMHAN" src="images/p098.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">GATE IN THE WALL OF NAMHAN. <a href="#Page_98">PAGE 98</a></p></div> - -<p>The government had never set aside any land for a foreign -cemetery near Seoul, although in accordance with the -treaty they should have done so long before. A strong -superstition and very rigid law forbid the burial of the -dead within the city walls, and hitherto the few Europeans -who had died had been buried in the cemetery near -Chemulpo. But to carry remains thirty miles in the heat -of July, to the port, with no conveyances but chairs, to be -forced to bury our dead so far away, was unnecessary, inconvenient -and expensive, as well as an additional trial to -hearts already sore. As soon, therefore, as Dr. Heron’s -death seemed inevitable, a request was made that the government -would set apart a place near the city for this purpose. -This, with characteristic procrastination, they failed -to do.</p> - -<p>On the day of Dr. Heron’s death they offered a place -which we found altogether impossible, beyond the sand -beds across the river, a long distance off, in very low -ground. It was then decided that as something immediate -must be done, we would make a temporary resting place on -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span> -a piece of ground belonging to our mission, where there -was a small house, occupied just then by Mr. Underwood’s -and Dr. Heron’s literary helpers. As soon as they heard -of this plan they objected most strongly, saying it was -against the law, and as the body must be carried through -the streets to reach there, there would probably be a good -deal of excitement and trouble.</p> - -<p>We then ordered the grave dug on Dr. Heron’s compound, -back of his house, sending word to the Foreign -Office that as they had provided no other place, we were -forced temporarily at least to make this disposal of the -remains. The time for the funeral was set for three -o’clock, and about a half hour before the literary helpers -again came to us in a state of the wildest excitement and -terror, tearing their hair, weeping and trembling. They -averred that the people in that quarter were planning to -mob us all, to burn down their house, beat and kill them, -and very likely kill us too, if the body was buried within -the walls.</p> - -<p>It seemed cruel that no place could be found where we -could lay our dead. Our hearts were torn with grief for -the poor burdened sister, who ought to have been able to -claim a quiet and decent burial for her dear one’s remains, -as well as the sympathy of every one, that she must -be refused a place for his repose, and assailed by all this -wrangling and confusion. We were hotly indignant with -the teachers, who we thought ought to have risen above -heathen superstition on their own part and kept the secret -from the people. It was now uncertain where Dr. Heron’s -remains could be laid, and they were therefore embalmed -and hermetically sealed. The Foreign Office, however, on -hearing that it was our intention to bury on the compound, -at once came to terms and gave us a large field on a fine -bluff overlooking the river, about five miles from Seoul. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span> -This was obtained through the indefatigable efforts of Dr. -Allen of the United States legation, who besieged the -foreign office and insisted on this concession.</p> - -<p>During all these months the work was steadily going -forward; more than we had dared to hope were added to -the number of believers and inquirers; a Bible translating -committee, of which Dr. W. B. Scranton of the M. E. -Mission and Mr. Underwood were members, had been appointed; -a girls’ school in each of the two missions had -been started long before, and both were steadily growing -(though the Methodists were far in advance here), the -boys’ orphanage had been changed to a boys’ school, and -hospital and dispensary work in both missions was flourishing; -with an increase of confidence of the people in our -friendship and trustworthiness.</p> - -<p>In the early fall a new member of the mission appeared -in our family, making life richer, in a measure absurdly -disproportionate to his dimensions and weight. Some -months after this, sickness, growing more and more threatening -and intractable, followed, until the doctors’ verdict -was that a return to America was the only condition, and -(that a doubtful one) on which life could be saved. The -kindness and goodness of the whole community shown to -me were beyond expression. Here in the East, where the -ordinary conveniences of large cities are not to be had for -money, where we are very dependent on each other’s kind -offices, mutual love and service draw and bind us very -closely together.</p> - -<p>I was nursed, and friends and neighbors helped my -husband pack away our goods, for a year’s absence means -that everything must be nailed or locked or sealed up from -mildew, moth, rust, rats and robbers. Furniture must be -compactly stowed away so that the house may be occupied -by other homeless missionaries waiting for an appropriation -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span> -for a house. They sewed for baby and me, and -spared neither pains nor trouble to help us. Two of the -ladies, Mrs. Bunker and Miss Rothweiler, went with us to -Chemulpo, a journey which I made, carried by six coolies -to ensure steadiness, on a long steamer chair, stopping -over night, half way, at a primitive Japanese hotel.</p> - -<p>I can never tell with what regret, shame and pain I -left Korea. I had looked forward with pleasure to a return -after a long period of years, when the work had been -well begun and the appointed time had come, when something -had been accomplished, but to go <i>now</i>, a <i>failure</i>, to -leave my work scarcely begun, perhaps never to return, -was bitter. But more bitter still was the thought that I was -dragging my husband, in the freshness of his health and -vigor, back from a life of usefulness, where workers were -pitiably few and calls for help from all sides were many -and loud. Christian tracts and hymn books were needed, -the Bible, as yet not translated, the dictionary not half -finished, schools to be established, a fast growing band of -Christians to be nourished and taught, and when I thought -of it all, it looked dark.</p> - -<p>But God brought a blessing out of it, as he always does -from every seeming misfortune, for through that return -to America several missionaries were obtained, a new -mission established and greater interest in Korea aroused -in the minds of American, Canadian and English Christians.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Man’s weakness waiting upon God its end can never miss,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">For man on earth no work can do more angel-like than this.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">He always wins who sides with God—to him no chance is lost;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">God’s will is sweetest to him when it triumphs at his cost.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Ill that he blesses is our good, and unblest good is ill,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And all is right that seems most wrong, if it be His sweet will.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>On our return to Korea most of the summer was spent -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span> -at Chemulpo, as our baby was very sick. We stopped in a -so-called “hotel,” kept by Chinamen. The long hot nights -were rendered almost intolerable by the noise and odors -of such a place. From early in the evening till past midnight -we were tortured by the high falsetto singing of the -actors in a Chinese theatre across the street. The sailors -returning to the gunboats in the bay kept the dogs in fits -of frenzied barking, which would have effectually murdered -sleep had it ever ventured near. By the time the -dogs had begun to regain their composure, the Japanese -venders of vegetables, fish, etc., with a devotion to business -which under any circumstances ought to have won high -praise, began with loud strident voices to call their wares -under my window until it was time to rise and face a new -day.</p> - -<p>All day I brooded over my starving little son with an -aching heart, looking out across the long reaches of dreary -mud flats to the sea, watching for the steamer that was -bringing the only food that he could digest, and prayed it -might not come too late. Day by day the little life trembled -in the balance, but at last the ship came in, and never -was argosy from the Indies laden with gems and treasures -untold half so welcome. Never could ship come to me -with half so precious a cargo as that which brought my -baby strength and life.</p> - -<p>In the meanwhile Mr. Underwood toiled in the city, -overseeing the repairs on our house, for we must be builders, -contractors, carpenters, gardeners and jack of all -trades, and throughout the summer working unremittingly -on a hymn book which the little church now greatly -needed.</p> - -<p>The “term question” is a vexed problem which as yet -has failed to find a solution that secures the assent of all -missionaries. This question relates to the proper word to -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span> -be used for God. China, Japan and Korea alike use the -Chinese characters and have words which mean “gods,” -or things worshiped, but they do not have either a definite -article or capitals, such as those by which in English we -can change “gods” into “the God” or “God.” They also -have <i>names</i> (quite a different matter) signifying the chief -god of heaven (Sangchai or Hannanim), the god of earth -(Tangnim) and others.</p> - -<p>Some missionaries hold that by using this name of the -chief god of heaven and explaining it by instructing the -people in the character and attributes of him whom they -ignorantly worship, they will more easily understand and -more readily accept our teaching. Many also believe that -the name really refers to the great God of heaven, although -of course it is impossible to claim that it refers -to the one only God, since all the heathen who worship -this one also worship countless other smaller deities.</p> - -<p>On the other hand are those who conscientiously believe -that the personal name of a heathen deity should not in -any way be applied to the Eternal Jehovah, that such a -course is in direct conflict with God’s own word. Then -aside from their convictions on this matter they believe -that the use of a heathen cognomen of one of these gods, -be he of heaven or earth, applied to the great “I am” may, -in addition to being forbidden, lead to dangerous mistakes -in the minds of the members of the infant native -church. They believe, in short, that a false thing can -never be right, and that to address Jehovah by a name not -his, but another’s, cannot be right or result well in the -end. This view has been adopted by missionaries of all -creeds in Japan, a large minority of Protestants, and all -Romanists in China, and by all the Episcopalians and -Romanists in Korea. They use the name Jehovah for -God.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="HOUSE_USED_BY_MISSIONARIES_ON_TOP_OF_NAMHAN" src="images/p104.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">HOUSE USED BY MISSIONARIES ON TOP OF NAMHAN. <a href="#Page_98">PAGE 98</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">105</span></p></div> - -<p>Almost the entire body of the Presbyterian and -Methodist missionaries in Korea, and a majority of them -in China, belong to the other party, although quite essentially -different words are used by the Chinese missionaries -from those used in Korea. The Chinese use Sangchai; -the Koreans, Hannanim.</p> - -<p>It is with no controversial intent that this matter is referred -to here. It is indeed a vexed question, but one -whose satisfactory settlement is to be devoutly hoped for. -No little feeling has been awakened, because it is a question -which has involved in the minds of many some very -deep principles.</p> - -<p>The only reason for referring to this matter is that men -and women in Christian lands may gain a little glimpse -of some of the difficult and perplexing problems which -confront the workers in some of the mission fields. These -problems vary in different countries, but they all have -their difficulties.</p> - -<p>Immediately after our return Mr. James Gale’s Grammatical -Forms was published, and about a year later his -Korean-English dictionary, so that the mission was now -supplied with several language helps. Much stress had -been laid from the first upon securing a thorough mastery -of Korean, and each missionary was required to pass three -very rigid annual examinations. A course of study for -first, second and third grades was made out for each year, -to assist students, and members of the examination committee -and others were appointed to oversee and aid the -language study of the newcomers. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">106</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>The Mission in 1893—“The Shelter”—Opening of Japanese War—Seoul -Populace Panic Stricken—Dr. and Mrs. Hall in -Pyeng Yang—Heroic Conduct of Native Christians—Condition -of Pyeng Yang after the War—Dr. Hall’s Death—Preaching -the Gospel at the Palace—The Queen Seeks to -Strengthen Friendly Relations with Europeans—Her Majesty’s -Generosity—A Little Child at the Palace—The Slaves -of the Ring—A Christmas Tree at the Palace—The Queen’s -Beneficent Plans—The Post Office Emeute of 1884—A -Haunted Palace—The Murder of Kim Oh Kiun.</p></blockquote> - -<p>In the fall of 1893 we moved too early into a house recently -repaired and not yet completed, with wet mud walls -and no windows fitted in some of the rooms. It seemed a -necessity, but resulted in continued sickness through the -entire winter for the little one and myself, so that I was -largely debarred from the good work going on among the -Koreans. Many of the middle and lower classes were -coming into the church, men’s and women’s meetings were -well attended, and even the little boys in the school seemed -full of Christlike zeal, and spent some of their holiday and -play hours in telling the good tidings and distributing -tracts. One of our missionaries, Dr. Moffett, had been appointed -to Pyeng Yang, other appointments of Presbyterians -to the same place soon following, as well as that of -Dr. and Mrs. Hall from the Methodist Mission.</p> - -<p>On my own part, a little, very interrupted medical work -was done, and women’s meetings were begun and carried -on with great difficulty on account of deficient knowledge -of the language, but little by little, in trying ever so lamely -to use what I had, I rapidly gained more and more, so that -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">107</span> -I could soon talk and pray with freedom, if not always -with perfect elegance and correctness, and as my chief aim -was to be understood by the Koreans, not to display myself -as an accomplished linguist, I was satisfied and happy -when I had proof of this. Other women by this time were -prepared to do this work well, in all three missions; and -our poor native sisters were being reached in various -quarters. I had been invited to the palace several times, -my child was also asked there, and petted and loaded with -kindness.</p> - -<p>The Bible translating committee had been enlarged and -now included Rev. H. G. Appenzeller (M. E.) and Mr. -James S. Gale (Presby.), in addition to Dr. Scranton -and Mr. Underwood. Lesson leaves were prepared for -our Bible classes, and a number of tracts were being -translated by various missionaries. Before our return to -America in 1891, and for some years after, it was the -cruel custom among wealthy natives to put servants, dependents -or strangers at once on the street, if afflicted -with any infectious disease, and it was the commonest occurrence -to find poor people lying by the roadside, either -exposed to the bitterest blasts of winter or the blazing heat -of midsummer. Sometimes a friend or relative had -erected a rude hut of thatch over the sufferer, sometimes a -whole family together occupied such a hut, the dead and -living lying together. It was our heart’s desire to obtain -in some way the means to buy or build a hospital for such -cases. While we were in America small sums were put at -odd times into our hands “for the work,” and as these -sums increased we decided to use the money for this long-cherished -purpose.</p> - -<p>Soon after our return, we were able, at a very low price, -to buy a beautiful piece of ground on a breezy hillside, -covered with fine trees and with a good tiled house having -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">108</span> -six or seven rooms. This was large enough for our -present purpose, and money in hand was not sufficient to -build the sort of hospital of which we dreamed. So we -repaired the old building and added a caretaker’s quarters. -We made the institution undenominational, arranging that -any one might place cases of infectious disease there, -which should be attended by any doctor desired. At the -same time a little dispensary, given in memory of her only -son by Mrs. Hugh O’Neil, of New York, was opened not -far from the “Shelter,” as it was called, on the main road -to the north. Here, in addition to medical work in a small -way, women’s Bible classes were held, men’s and women’s -evening prayer meetings, and often Sabbath morning services. -July of 1894 saw the beginning of the China-Japan -war in Korea, and the capture of Seoul by the -Japanese. We were awakened one morning by the sound -of firing, and soon learned that the palace was in possession -of the Japanese. Excitement rose quite high -among both foreigners and natives.</p> - -<p>All the legations ordered up troops from the port where -our gunboats lay, for our protection, although it is difficult -to see how, in a case of serious danger, such small -numbers would be of any service. There were fifty Russians, -forty Americans, forty English and nine German -marines. The natives, high and low, were in a state of -panic. The nobility fled from their homes in large numbers -and in all sort of disguises, and sought refuge at the -foreign legations, or in the country; and to the country -the common people started <i>en masse</i>. Every shop was -closed, the city had the look of a plague-infested place. A -solemn procession of men, women, chairs, pack-ponies, a -continuous throng, in dead silence, with rapid steps, and -set, terror-stricken faces, poured through the main -thoroughfares and out of the gates. Many pathetic little -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">109</span> -groups were to be seen; little children, whose parents in -wild fear had deserted or lost them in the crowd, trotting -along with tear-stained faces, alone; women with babies -on their backs and babies hanging at their skirts; men -carrying all their worldly goods on their shoulders, here -and there coolies with the chair of some frightened rich -man or fine lady, shoving aside the crowd. High and -low, rich and poor, hurrying away from the dreaded -Japanese, the ancient enemy of their nation. How it made -one realize the great multitude of unsaved peoples, pushing -its way along the broad road and through the wide -gate that leads to destruction. “And when he beheld the -multitudes he had compassion on them as sheep having no -shepherd.” The servants in every family gave notice; -they dared not stay, they said, since to remain would be to -be killed by Chinese or Japanese. We reminded them that -we were neither afraid nor making any preparations for -flight, and at last only persuaded some of them to remain -by promising that we would never go and leave them, -which we had fully decided upon on account of the native -Christians.</p> - -<p>Some very exciting and trying events had in the meanwhile -been taking place in Pyeng Yang. In the previous -May Dr. William James Hall of the M. E. Mission took -his wife and baby to that city to start a station, and to take -up a permanent residence. They were almost mobbed by -the curious throngs, whom they were unable to control. -No police could be obtained from the governor, who in addition, -on the second or third day after their arrival, arrested -and threw into jail Dr. Hall’s helper and the man -from whom he had bought his house. This is the approved -method of forcing a man to give up a house or piece of -ground to which he holds a good title, but which Korean -officials object, for any reason, to his keeping. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">110</span></p> - -<p>Dr. Hall had selected this property because it was in a -thickly populated part of the town, where he believed he -could do most good, but he had positively refused to pay a -tax, which former owners had always paid to a certain -devil-worship and sorceress house in the vicinity.</p> - -<p>Dr. Moffett’s helper and the former owner of his house -were also cast in jail, and his native Christians cruelly -beaten, at the time when Dr. Hall’s men were seized. It -was evident missionaries were not to be tolerated in Pyeng -Yang. One or two other M. E. native Christians were -then also arrested and beaten. Dr. Moffett was in the -capital, and the Halls were quite alone in this large town, -among many enemies, several days’ journey from Seoul -and help. The situation was grim. Dr. Hall was obliged -to leave his helpless wife and baby alone in the unprotected -house while he visited the governor, or the Chinese telegraph -office (both long distances away), or in trying to -relieve or help the Christians in the jail.</p> - -<p>As soon as his first message arrived in Seoul, a general -meeting of all the missionaries was called at our house -for united prayer for the Halls and our poor tortured native -brethren. Dr. Scranton, Dr. Moffett and Mr. Underwood -at once hastened to the American and English legations, -and obtained through them an order from the Foreign -Office to the governor, to release the Christians and -pay damages for the injured property. Although this was -wired at once to Pyeng Yang, the only apparent result was -that the natives were more cruelly beaten and water-carriers -forbidden to take water to the Halls, their house -stoned and the walls torn down. The natives bore their -cruel treatment heroically, and refused to give up their -faith; they were then removed to the death cell, and the -governor sent them word of his intention to execute them. -Two despatches from Seoul had been received by the governor, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">111</span> -but still no signs of change. In the meanwhile it -was decided that some of the missionaries from Seoul -should go to Dr. Hall’s help. Mr. Moffett claimed the -right to go, as his native Christians were there in trouble, -and Mr. McKenzie, from Canada, was allowed to accompany -him, being an unmarried man, although several -others stoutly urged the best reasons why they should go, -like boys begging for a holiday rather than men going to -face a very serious and doubtful situation.</p> - -<p>We all feared that Dr. and Mrs. Hall, as well as the -Christians’ lives, would be sacrificed to the malice of the -mob and the governor before sufficient influence could be -brought to bear by our legations through the Foreign -Office to save them. By the time the two men from Seoul -had arrived there, however, five days later, the Christians -had been released, after being again badly beaten and -stoned. Dr. and Mrs. Hall for a month following treated -patients and preached the Word, but when war seemed -imminent they were ordered back to Seoul, where they -returned, as well as Mr. McKenzie, Dr. Moffett following -somewhat later, having lingered as long as possible to -encourage and hearten the Christians. Pyeng Yang was -now in the hands of the Chinese, and Seoul in those of the -Japanese. The summer was a very hot and unhealthy one, -and there was scarce a family among the foreigners where -there was not one or more cases of severe and prostrating -sickness. Two little ones died, and there were long hours -of agonized watching, when dear lives seemed for hours -to be slipping over the brink. None of us could leave the -city to seek for purer air or water, no pure milk could be -had, and one poor young father, whose little child was -literally starving for digestible nourishing food, remembering -his father’s farm with its good milk cows, -remarked pathetically, “In my father’s house there -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">112</span> -is food enough and to spare, while I perish with -hunger.”</p> - -<p>On the first of October, after the defeat of the Chinese, -the Presbyterian missionaries and Dr. Hall returned to -Pyeng Yang to look after the interests of the stations left -so long, in a city which had passed through such a hard -experience.</p> - -<p>Pyeng Yang was in a fearfully unhealthy condition. -One of the missionaries wrote, “The decaying bodies of -men, horses and cattle were so numerous, that no matter -whatever direction we went we came across them constantly, -so that the atmosphere was foul beyond expression.” -Another wrote, “In one place I counted over -twenty bodies, literally piled one on top of another, lying -just as they had been shot down.... In another place, -where a body of Manchurian cavalry ran into an ambush -of Japanese infantry, the carnage was frightful, several -hundred bodies of men and horses lying just as they -had fallen made <i>a swath of bodies nearly a quarter -of a mile long and several yards wide</i>. It was three -weeks after the battle and the bodies were all there unmolested.”</p> - -<p>According to a native superstition that the city is a boat, -and to dig wells would sink the boat, there were no wells -in Pyeng Yang; but a large number of bodies of men and -horses were lying in the river, polluting for weeks the only -water supply. In this dreadful situation our brave missionaries -remained and worked, and on October 17th -Dr. Hall wrote the following cheerful words, “We have -very interesting services, the hymns of praise that less -than a year ago brought cursing and stones are now listened -to with delight, and carry with them a feeling of -security similar to the sound of a policeman’s whistle in -New York. Comparatively few of the Koreans have returned -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">113</span> -to their homes, but every day brings fresh additions. -Every day numbers of those who have returned -and those from the surrounding villages and towns visit -us. They buy our books and seem far more interested in -the gospel than I have ever seen them before.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="DESERTED_ROYAL_DINING_HALL" src="images/p112.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">DESERTED ROYAL DINING HALL. <a href="#Page_121">PAGE 121</a></p></div> - -<p>Very soon after writing these words Dr. Hall returned -to Seoul; the boat on which he came was full of sick -Japanese soldiers. There were cases of typhus fever and -army dysentery, the water was doubtless poisoned, and he -reached Seoul, after numerous most trying vicissitudes, -fatally ill with typhus fever. Quite early, articulation became -very difficult, but every halting sentence spoke of -perfect peace and joy, and almost his last words were, -“I’m sweeping through the gates.” Tears dim my eyes -while I write, for we all not only loved, but reverenced -Dr. Hall, and we felt that he possessed a larger share of -the Master’s spirit than most of us. His very entrance -into a room seemed to bring the Lord nearer, and his -looks, words and conduct unexceptionally revealed the -power and beauty of Christ. No one ever heard Dr. Hall -speak a harsh or bitter word, no one ever heard him -criticise a brother Christian, no one, to the best of my information, -ever knew of him anything that was not noble, -true, faithful and Christlike. His face beamed with a -celestial light, and without his ever assuming to be in any -way better than others, we all felt he was a holy man. -Europeans and natives alike testified to the same impressions -of him, the same love for him, his sweet spirit drew -all hearts to him, so that he was both universally loved and -honored.</p> - -<p>While we who were in Seoul had all suffered more or -less from ill health, everything was quiet and orderly, -and the Japanese deserve great credit for the fine discipline -of the army, and the good order and comfort of natives -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">114</span> -and foreigners in a city entirely at the mercy of the -victorious troops of an Eastern nation.</p> - -<p>During the fall and winter of ’94 and spring of ’95 the -queen sent for me very often, asking many questions about -foreign countries and their customs, and chatting most -affably. Frequently we dispensed altogether with the formality -of an interpreter, and the king and crown prince, -who were often present, were quite as frequently elsewhere, -so with her majesty so friendly and kind, I at times -almost forgot that I was not having a <i>tête à tête</i> with an -intimate friend. I of course felt my great responsibility -heavily, and was overwhelmed at times with the thought -of my duty and inefficiency. At length I asked the prayers -of the missionaries that an opportunity to speak to the -queen about Christ might be given me, and that I might -realize it and make the best use of it. And now my -anxiety and trouble of mind passed away and a restful -contentedness took its place. I felt sure that I was to be -guided and led at the right time.</p> - -<p>On the day before Christmas the queen sent for me and -asked me to tell her about our great festival, its origin -and meaning, and how celebrated. Could any one ask -clearer guidance or a better opportunity? It would be impossible -not to tell the gospel story under such circumstances, -and so I told her of the angels’ song, and the star, -and the little babe that was laid in a manger, of the lost -world to be redeemed, of the one God who so loved the -world, and the Redeemer who came to save his people -from their sins.</p> - -<p>She listened intently, and with deep interest, turning -from time to time and repeating it in a most animated and -sympathetic way to the king and prince, who did not -understand my accent so well.</p> - -<p>A few days later, after asking many questions about -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">115</span> -my own country, she said rather sadly, “Oh, that Korea -were as happy, as free and as powerful as America!” -Here was another opportunity which I tried to improve -by saying, that America, though rich and powerful, was -not the greatest or the best, attempting to picture that -better land without sin, pain or tears; a land of endless -glory, goodness and joy. “Ah!” exclaimed the queen, -with unspeakable pathos, “how good it would be if the -king, the prince and myself might all go there!”</p> - -<p>Poor queen! her kingdom threatened on all sides, at that -time in the hands of an ancient foe, traitors and relentless -enemies among her own people and kindred, and some of -the men whom she had raised and advanced ready and -plotting then to betray her to death. No wonder she -sighed for that haven of peace and rest. But I was forced -to tell her very sadly, that no sinners might enter there. -“No sinners!” Her face fell, the bright look faded, for -she knew, accustomed though she was to almost divine -honors, that she was a sinner. Then as silence fell in the -room, I told her the good tidings, that all who would trust -in Jesus were forgiven and purified through him, and so -made holy and fit for that country. She listened very -thoughtfully, and though no other opportunity came to -talk further on this subject, I was unspeakably thankful -that I had been permitted on these occasions to point out -clearly the way of salvation.</p> - -<p>I think that in this time, when her nation’s helplessness -and weakness were emphasized, the queen sought to -strengthen friendly relations with European and Americans. -She gave several formal audiences to European -and American ladies, and all who met her felt her powerful -magnetic charm and became at once her friends and -well-wishers. Twice during that winter the queen bade -me ask all my friends to skate on the pond in the palace -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">116</span> -gardens, graciously asking me to act as hostess in her -place and serve tea in the little pavilion near-by.</p> - -<p>On Christmas day her majesty sent a beautiful sedan-chair, -which had been her own, covered with blue velvet -and lined with Chinese brocaded silk, and with it any -number of screens, mats, rolls of cloth and interesting and -curious articles of Korean manufacture, with great quantities -of eggs, pheasants, fish, nuts and dates, and on the -Korean New Year’s day five hundred yen, which the -queen requested me to use in the purchase of pearls, or -something similar, for myself, and a gift as well for my -little son.</p> - -<p>He was then between four and five years of age, and -the palace women were constantly urging me to bring him -with me to the palace. This, of course, I would not do -without a special request from their majesties, and at -length one day the queen asked why I had never -brought him, expressed surprise that I considered an invitation -necessary, and bade me bring him next day. I -therefore took him to the palace, and no sooner had the -coolies lowered my chair than the women, who were evidently -on the watch for us, clutched him up and bore him -away in triumph, I, his mother, knew not whither. Some -few minutes elapsed before I was asked to go from the -waiting room to the audience, during which I employed -my time in lively conjectures as to what was happening -to my kidnapped son. When I was called for a little later -I found him with the royal party, the center of an admiring -circle.</p> - -<p>Both the king and queen have always shown a passionate -fondness for children. Only a few months ago the -king spent nearly four hundred thousand dollars on sorcerers -and temples in trying to mollify the smallpox god, -which had attacked the youngest son, a boy of about six. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">117</span> -So no wonder they were kind to the small American. -The queen ordered nuts and candies brought in, and insisted -on his eating then and there, although, knowing that -it was bad form in the eyes of Koreans as well as of foreigners -to eat in the royal presence, and fearing for his -health as well (for he had never as yet eaten nuts), I -begged her majesty to allow this treat to be postponed. -His looks and actions were praised far beyond their deserts, -and every expression noted and remarked upon. -The queen drew the child to her side in a motherly -fashion, placing her hand on his forehead, remarked anxiously -that it was too hot.</p> - -<p>When we were ready to go, the king, to my amazement, -actually knelt down in front of the baby, and with his own -“jade” fingers buttoned on the little coat and made a brave -attempt to tie the cap strings, one of which, I blush to confess, -in the unfamiliar tug was quite torn from its moorings. -Of course I was overwhelmed with confusion over -the bad conduct of the ribbon on such an occasion, but the -king overlooked it, and farewells were said and again the -child was spirited swiftly away by the palace women. I -found him in the women’s quarters handed round like a -curio from one to another, petted, caressed, discussed, -half-frightened, but demure.</p> - -<p>Poor palace women! with no homes or children, living -such an aimless, shut-in life, a child in their midst was -a godsend indeed. But all Koreans are extremely fond of -children. A child is an open sesame to their hearts and -homes at all times. God blesses the missionary babies, and -these little preachers open doors that yield to no other -touch than their little dimpled fingers. From palace to -hovel I never found a woman whose heart would not -soften, whose eyes would not brighten, whose interest -could not at once be enlisted by the sight of a child. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">118</span></p> - -<p>That evening as we returned home through the narrow -and winding streets of Seoul we were quite an imposing -procession. A number of palace lantern bearers accompanied -us, each carrying the gayly-colored silk official lanterns -of their majesties, and preceding us were a train of -servants, carrying on their heads great trays of oranges, -nuts, dried persimmons and candies. It took little imagination, -looking at those men in their Eastern attire, at the -lanterns and streets, and even our own chair with its -oriental splendor, to transport ourselves into the middle of -a chapter of the Arabian nights, with a little Aladdin sitting -in my lap and the slaves of the ring attending us -home.</p> - -<p>Soon after Christmas I dressed a Christmas tree for the -royal family, but to my great vexation, the effect was -quite spoiled because their majesties were too impatient to -wait till dark to view it, and one cannot lock the doors on -kings and queens and forbid them to do as they will in -their own palaces. There were no heavy hangings or -means of darkening the room, and so the poor little -candles flickered in a sickly way in the glaring daylight, -and I felt that Western customs were lightly esteemed in -the critical eyes of the East.</p> - -<p>Indeed, in our superb self-satisfaction we often deceive -ourselves in fancying that Orientals view with open-mouthed -admiration everything European or American. -I am reminded of a Korean nobleman, who, on being -asked, after his return to Seoul from America, how he -liked New York, replied, “Oh, very well, <i>except the dirt -and the smells, which were horrible</i>.” Another similar instance -was that of one of the Koreans who went with us -to Chemulpo and Fusan, who saw the two-story houses, -the ships in the harbor and various wonders of civilization, -and exclaimed, “Poor Korea, poor Korea;” but when -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">119</span> -he heard a foreign band play at the Japanese consulate, -remarked with delight, “At least there is one thing in -which Japan cannot rival or compare with us, our music!”</p> - -<p>Through the whole winter I was at the palace very -often, as were the ladies of the American and Russian -legations, and Dr. Avison of our mission, who was physician -to the king, was frequently consulted, and the recipient -also personally of many royal favors. In the -spring the prime minister came, saying the queen had sent -him to ask Mr. Underwood to draw up plans and estimate -the cost of a school for the sons of the nobility. The site -selected was between the east and west palaces. Her -majesty proposed to erect dwellings for the teachers, -whom my husband was asked to recommend and send for -to America. The queen was prepared, the minister said, -to give at once thirty thousand dollars for the school, and -twenty or thirty thousand dollars a year for the running -expenses.</p> - -<p>Mr. Underwood drew up the first plans and made estimates, -which were sent for her majesty’s criticism and approval. -These were again referred to Mr. Underwood, -the final plans were being prepared, and only two weeks -before they were to be sent for the queen’s approval the -great blow fell which put an end to all her beneficent and -enlightened schemes for the advancement of her people.</p> - -<p>Before proceeding further I must go back a few years -and recall one or two events which occurred before my arrival, -in 1884, in order that my readers may understand -more clearly some of the events which are to be related in -the next two or three chapters.</p> - -<p>In that year the progressive or reform party in Korean -politics was led by a man called Kim Ok Kiun, but they -were continually foiled in all their attempts towards advance -and reform by the conservatives, and at length received -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">120</span> -reliable information (so they claimed) that a plan -had been formed to murder all their prominent leaders at -midnight, on December the fourth. On this evening a -banquet was to be given in honor of the opening of the -Korean post-office, and the progressives resolved to forestall -the plans of their opponents, and just before the -dinner they cut down Min Yung Ik, the queen’s cousin, -and the most influential man in the kingdom. He would -have died had it not been for the prompt assistance given -by Dr. Allen, then of our mission. The other conservative -leaders were then ordered to the palace, as they supposed, -by royal command, but were there (five of them) assassinated -by the progressive party, who, headed by Kim -Ok Kiun, then seized the palace. The post-office was -burned on the same night, and with it the new stamps -which had been used only once.</p> - -<p>The Japanese minister and other foreign officials were -now invited to the palace, which invitation was accepted -only by the former, who brought one hundred and forty -soldiers. Here the Japanese and the progressive party -were attacked by three thousand Koreans and between -two and three thousand Chinese. As the event grew more -than doubtful, the king was allowed to go over to the other -party, in the belief that if he was released the fighting -would cease. Although this was not the case, the little -party of Japanese fired a mine, dispersed a large number of -the allies, and then forming a square, with the progressive -leaders and the Japanese minister in the center, fought -their way through the enemy, and the hostile streets, first -to the Japanese legation, and after that to the river, with -the loss of only five men. After much difficulty in obtaining -boats, they crossed the river, made their way to Chemulpo, -and from there escaped safely to Japan.</p> - -<p>The picturesque palace, with the remarkably beautiful -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">121</span> -park which surrounds it, was not occupied again by the -queen. Her majesty averred that it was impossible to -sleep there at night for the mournful wailing of the voices -of her murdered friends, which she heard continually crying, -“Why was I killed, why was I killed?” So now the -wind whistles and moans through the deserted rooms, -grass and weeds push their way through the crevices of -the beautiful marble steps, green mould grows thick on the -once lovely lotus pond, and the charming little summer -pavilions are falling to ruins, while snakes and lizards -slide about the stone seats. The wide reaches of lawn are -overgrown with long grass, and tigers and leopards are -said to make their lairs in the noble woods and grottoes. -The gateways fashioned in various charming designs to -form frames as it were for the beautiful vistas beyond, are -choked with a wild overgrowth of vines and weeds. -Fancy has not to look far, or listen long, to read in all this -deserted and neglected beauty the story of that one night -of blood and horror, and to hear in every chilled whisper -of shuddering foliage the word “haunted.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="MR_CHAY_CHO_SI" src="images/p120a.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">MR. CHOY CHO SI</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="ELDER_YANG_AND_FAMILY" src="images/p120b.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">ELDER YANG AND FAMILY</p></div> - -<p>Ten years had passed, the refugees were still in Japan, -but Eastern vengeance does not tire or sleep, least of all -forget. A man named Hong, probably employed by the -government, went to Japan, ingratiated himself with Kim -Ok Kiun, decoyed him to Shanghai, and there murdered -him, and on April the 12th, 1894, a Chinese gunboat -brought the assassin and his victim’s remains to Chemulpo. -Arrived in Korea, the body of the murdered man was -divided and sent through the eight provinces. Two of -the other refugees had gone to America, and one Pak -Yung Ho remained in Japan. All three are to be heard -from again. While we all shuddered at and deplored this -revolting deed, a stain upon any government, it must be -remembered that the man was a political criminal of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">122</span> -blackest dye, and that while any nation would under -similar circumstances, if possible, have executed him as a -traitor and assassin, the Korean government was that of -unenlightened Eastern people who have not learned that -revenge has no place in just punishment. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">123</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Mr. McKenzie—The First Church Built by Natives—Mr. -McKenzie’s Sickness—His Death—Warning to New Missionaries—The -Tonghaks—Mr. Underwood’s Trip to Sorai -in Summer—Native Churches—Our Use of Helpers—Christians -in Seoul Build their Own Church—Epidemic of -Cholera—Unhygienic Practices—Unsanitary Condition of -City.</p></blockquote> - -<p>In the meanwhile, in the fall of 1894, Mr. McKenzie, -who had arrived from Canada in the winter of 1893, and, -as we have said, had gone to Dr. Hall’s relief, after his -return decided to go to the interior, the better to learn -the language and people, and to live there as much as -possible in every way like a native. Mr. Underwood advised -him to go to the village of Sorai, or Song Chun, -then under his care, where he had baptized almost the first -converts ever received in the Korean church. Here he -found a few Christians who received him as a brother. -He made his home with one of them, and at once began to -preach Christ by example. Long before the people understood -his broken Korean they read his beautiful life, and -little by little a change came over the whole community. -We all thought of him often in his loneliness in that far-off -hamlet, where, though he was a great light to the people, -there was no real companionship for him. At Christmas -we sent him a box of home-made bread, plumb-cake, -canned fruits and vegetables, tea and milk and sugar, -for we knew he had no foreign food and that he was living -solely on Korean diet, but we did not know that it consisted -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">124</span> -of rice chiefly, with a chicken once a week, and occasionally -a few eggs.</p> - -<p>When our box reached him, he handed the contents all -over to the Koreans. He wrote that he <i>dared</i> not taste -them, knowing that if he did it would be impossible to go -back to native food. Meanwhile one and another of the -villagers and people in the vicinity were giving up their -old heathen idols and turning to Christ.</p> - -<p>Some years before the Christians of that village had -asked Mr. Underwood to give them a church, but, like the -young man who came to Jesus, they went away sorrowful, -when told they must build it themselves. Now, however, -they again took up the idea in a different spirit. Near the -village was a rising piece of ground on which stood a -little grove, in midst of which had been for many years the -shrine where the village deities were worshiped. This had -long been neglected and destroyed, and here it was decided -to build the new church. Every one gave as the -Lord had prospered him, gladly, enthusiastically, and a -heathen master builder undertook to direct the erection of -the building on half pay, because it was for the great -“chief God of heaven,” as he understood. Very likely he -knew little enough of the one only God for whose service -it was raised, but not very long after he learned both to -know and love him.</p> - -<p>The little meeting house was not a very imposing or -lofty structure. It could boast nothing of the magnificence -of our American churches, no doubt it would blush -to be called a church at all in such a stately company, so -I will call it a chapel, and even then it was an humble and -unpretentious one, <i>but it was the best building in the place</i>. -The poor people put into it their best wood, stones and -tiles, the loving labor of their own hands, with fervent -prayer. When it was finished no debt hung over it, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">125</span> -God, who does not see as man sees, blessed and honored -it by filling it to overflowing with simple-minded, sincere, -earnest people, who came with hearts ready to receive with -meekness his word.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="PARTY_STARTING_OUT_IN_MORNING_FROM_THATCHED_INN" src="images/p124a.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">PARTY STARTING OUT IN MORNING FROM THATCHED INN. <a href="#Page_199">PAGE 199</a></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="CHURCH_AT_SORAI" src="images/p124b.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CHURCH AT SORAI. <a href="#Page_124">PAGE 124</a></p></div> - -<p>In the early summer of 1895, Mr. McKenzie wrote, asking -Mr. Underwood to go and dedicate the church and receive -a number of applicants for baptism. This he -promised to do, but just before he was to start, one sad -day in July, when a number of us had met to hold a day -of fasting and prayer, a messenger came with the news -of the deadly illness of our dear brother, Mr. McKenzie. -The pitiful letter, written with his own trembling fingers, -showing in every sentence the evidence of terrible suffering -and of a mind already unhinged, was followed immediately -by the shocking news of his death. The blow fell -like a thunderbolt. Such zeal, consecration and usefulness -cut short so soon!</p> - -<p>It was strange, and yet there was a lesson in it for the -noblest class of missionaries. And here let me say just a -few words of warning to some who may have the foreign -field in view, and to some who are perhaps already on the -field. There are men and women, who, being John the -Baptist sort of people, enter the work with such zeal and -enthusiasm and allow themselves to become so overwhelmed -with the awful responsibility for these dying -millions (which indeed every true missionary feels only -too heavily), that they forget the just demands of the body -of this death. They forget that a solitary life gradually -unseats the intellect, and that a body which has reached -maturity, fed on plenty of nutritious food, cannot suddenly -be shifted to a meagre, unaccustomed and distasteful -diet of foreign concoction, and retain its power to resist -disease, and to accomplish the heavy work they mercilessly -exact from it, like Egyptian taskmasters demanding brick -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">126</span> -without straw. They forget that the spirit cannot remain -united to the body unless the claims of the latter (in which -are included those of the brain) are satisfied, and so they -drop, one by one, our noblest and most needed laborers. -But even so, they do not die entirely in vain, they leave an -example of Christlikeness and devotion which preaches -eloquently, and is an inspiration to all their brethren.</p> - -<p>And yet if they could only have gone on living and -preaching, as they might, had they been able to mix with -their enthusiasm and consecration, wisdom and temperance! -During my short experience I have seen several -illustrations of what Mr. McKenzie’s death brought home -so startlingly to us all. We learned afterwards that he had -been sick for some weeks, his mind had been somewhat -affected early in the history of the disease, the progress of -which had not been very rapid, but as he had no companion -who could observe the danger signals, and no -doctor to help, his invaluable life was lost.</p> - -<p>The more intelligent natives urged him to send for a -doctor, but he hesitated to call others from their work to -undertake a long difficult trip in the unhealthy summer -season, lest it should prove to be only a passing temporary -ailment. And so he went on doctoring himself (just as -any missionary alone in the interior is tempted to do), delaying -to call for help, from his very unselfishness and -conscientious fear of giving trouble.</p> - -<p>“Take care of your head. Don’t work too long in the -sun,” he said to an old woman by the roadside, “or you -may lose your mind as I have.”</p> - -<p>He related to his friend, the Korean leader, accounts of -long nights of anguished struggle with Satan, and then -again of hours of ecstatic joy with his Saviour. The intolerable -agony in his head grew steadily worse, until the -end. The Koreans felt the terrible blow deeply, but they -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">127</span> -have never ceased to love and revere Mr. McKenzie’s -memory. They cannot speak of him now after a lapse of -several years without tears. Their loving hands prepared -him for the grave and covered his bier with flowers. -They held a funeral service as best they knew, after our -custom, with prayers and hymns, and laid his loved remains -in a quiet place, not far from the little church which -he had been the instrument in God’s hands of building. -His influence is still felt in the village and for miles -around. He lived Christ and laid the foundations of that -church on a rock. He had a reputation for great courage -and prowess, and it is said that his presence alone saved -Sorai from invasions of Tonghaks.</p> - -<p>This society played a conspicuous part in the opening -of the China-Japan war, its name means literally Eastern -doctrine, and its aim was in brief, “the East for Easterners,” -or “Korea for Koreans.” They declared their desire -and intention to down all Westerners, Western ideas, -reforms and changes, and to restore and re-establish old -laws and customs. The sudden organization and wonderful -popularity of this society was doubtless caused by the -outrageous conduct of many corrupt officials, who ground -down the people mercilessly with unjust taxation and -brought about a general feeling of unrest and bitter discontent.</p> - -<p>They were in many respects like the Boxers of China, -and believed they had immunity from death and could not -be hurt by bullets. They soon spread all over the land, -a terror to officials, and the Korean government was -powerless to stop them. They gave up the worship of all -minor deities and honored only the Lord of the heavens. -They forced people everywhere to join their ranks and -subscribe for their support, levying taxes on small and -great. Starting like many other movements, in a good -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">128</span> -and patriotic determination to do away with abuses and institute -reforms, it grew into a great evil and terror in the -whole land. Bad and unprincipled men, of whom there -are plenty in all climes, who are restless and ready to -throw themselves into anything which promises a change, -knowing that no change can be for the worse for them, -joined in large numbers, and many companies of Tonghaks -differed only in name from bands of robbers. As has -been said, the government could make no headway against -them, and whether or not the aid of China was officially -sought, I am not prepared to say, but the fact that China -did send troops to Korea, nominally to control this uprising, -was used by the Japanese, who claimed that a -mutual agreement existed between Japan and China that -neither should introduce troops into Korea without the -consent of the other, as a <i>casus belli</i>, and they forthwith -sent an army to Korea, seized the palace, and sunk a -transport bringing Chinamen to Chemulpo.</p> - -<p>So much for a brief explanation of the Tonghaks. -Large companies of these men threatened on three different -occasions to raid Sorai while Mr. McKenzie was -there. To show that he leaned on no earthly defense, but -only on the arm of the almighty God, he took his gun all -to pieces when he heard of their approach. They were -told of this, and were deeply impressed; and were so thoroughly -convinced that if he was leaning on some mysterious -power with such strong confidence, it would be -useless and worse to attack him, that they gave up their -plan. The third time they decided to attack the place they -were said to be ten thousand strong, but after coming part -way, they turned back, and never again threatened Sorai, -which was the only village in that section which was never -raided.</p> - -<p>One day Mr. McKenzie heard that a tiger was prowling -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">129</span> -around in the vicinity, and started out with his shotgun -to hunt the beast, but fortunately did not have a chance to -try conclusions with that weapon, which, however useful -in killing partridges, would not be likely to do more than -tease a tiger. As soon as we received news of his death, -Mr. Underwood and Dr. Wells started that very day for -Sorai, to arrange his effects, make sure the death had been -as reported, and comfort and encourage the native Christians. -Before they returned, Mr. Underwood dedicated -the little church, which was packed almost to suffocation, -with crowds standing around the doors and windows. He -baptized on that day quite a little company, as well as admitted -a large number of catechumens and held a -memorial service for Mr. McKenzie.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="THE_THREE_STAGES_OF_MAN_IN_KOREA" src="images/p128.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE THREE STAGES OF MAN IN KOREA<br /> -1. MARRIED MAN 2. ENGAGED BOY. 3. YOUNG BOY</p></div> - -<p>Mr. Underwood was kept longer than I expected on this -trip, and there were no means of postal or telegraphic communication. -We women, whose husbands go hundreds of -miles into the interior, realize that we must take strong -hold on God, and learn patience and faith. When the time -for Mr. Underwood’s return had passed, and no news -came, I remembered flooded rivers, bands of Tonghaks, -the various forms of deadly disease that may attack the -man who travels in the country in July or August, and -the waiting and suspense grew harder every day.</p> - -<p>Every morning I looked up the road, where it curves -around the hill, to see if he were coming. Every evening -when the hateful twilight hurried into darkness, I strained -my aching vision along the awful emptiness of that road, -and all night long I listened for the plash of oars on the -river, or almost fancied I heard his voice as the boats -rounded the point, for he might come in a boat. Sometimes -I saw Japanese coming in the distance, and deceived -by their dark clothes, thought it was he. Once a native -chair came up the road near the house, and they told me -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">130</span> -he had come, but it was only a stranger, and the chair -passed on. Yet my case was not harder than that of many -women in the homelands who must all learn what anxious -suspense and long vigils mean, but at length, fearing he -was seriously sick, I concluded that I would go and find -him.</p> - -<p>To do this secrecy was necessary, for none of my foreign -friends would allow me to go at that season, if they -were informed of my intention. So I called up Mr. -Underwood’s trusted literary assistant, and arranged with -him to hire ponies. I planned to start from our house -in Seoul (we were then at the river cottage), and as nearly -every one was out of town, expected to be able to get -away without any one’s knowledge. But on the very day, -word came that he had already started, and was well on -his way home, his ponies had returned, and he, coming by -water, was almost due. No use to go now, and in a day or -two he was safe among us again, and again in contrition I -heard the gentle rebuke, “Oh ye of little faith, wherefore -did ye doubt?”</p> - -<p>The church in Sorai was the first built and paid for by -the natives, was in fact the first Presbyterian church built -in Korea. The Christian natives in Seoul had met in a -little guest-house on our place, and in similar rooms in -other sub-stations. So, Sorai in the van set the marching -order, and all others, with almost no exceptions (in the -Presbyterian missions), have followed in their lead.</p> - -<p>Paid pastors none of them have, but all the stronger -ones employ evangelists, whom they often pay in rice or -fields or wood, to systematically carry the gospel to their -heathen neighbors. It is our custom to select in each -church the most earnest and intelligent of the Christians -as a leader, who takes charge of the services, and oversight -of the flock, and reports progress to the missionary in -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">131</span> -charge. The leaders are gathered once a year, at the time -when farmers have most leisure, at some central place, and -instructed in the doctrines of the Bible, church government -and history, and careful exegetical Bible study. -They are carefully trained in conducting religious services -and in preparing illustrated Bible readings. In every way -possible the missionary tries to fit these men for their -duties. Mr. Underwood is accustomed to hold one of -these classes in the city for those who live near enough, -and one in the country for those who are at too great a -distance to attend the city class, and I believe nearly all -the others do the same.</p> - -<p>Such is the interest felt in the gatherings and the thirst -for more light, that many who are not invited, and who -hold no office in the church, travel many miles, bringing -their own rice, to attend these classes, which are often -crowded to overflowing. The church leaders are rarely -paid any salary, even by the natives. Each missionary -engaged in evangelistic work is allowed one paid helper, at -five dollars a month. This man employs his whole time in -this way, and some missionaries who have a large field -under their care are allowed two such assistants.</p> - -<p>Mr. Underwood has always had a good many men, -who freely gave the greater part of their time to the work, -or who were paid by the native Christians, or were provided -by him with some means of gaining their living -which would admit of their giving much time to the work. -Some would peddle quinine, at sufficient profit to make a -good living. Each bottle is wrapped with a tract, and -pains were taken to insure only the best article being -placed in the hands of these dealers. Some of these men -are placed in charge of little book shops, without any -salary, some in charge of a chapel or dispensary, the -privilege of occupying the house their only pay. There -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">132</span> -are always a number of young men around him glad and -proud to be asked to serve on a special mission here or -there, and the young men’s missionary societies band -themselves together for systematic gospel work, so that -they each week visit some village, distributing tracts and -preaching. All these, with the leaders, who are always at -his disposal for work in their own vicinity, form a valuable -corps of helpers. This plan, or something like it, I believe, -is carried out by all the evangelistic missionaries in the -Presbyterian missions. Mr. Underwood, also, copying -from the Methodists, established a circle of class meetings -among the Christians under his care in and around Seoul.</p> - -<p>The class leaders meet with him once a week, each -bringing his book, make a report of attendances, absences, -sickness, removals, backslidings, deaths and conversions. -The class leader, being, as far as we know, the best man -in his class, and in a way responsible for it, becomes again -a very useful helper.</p> - -<p>During the spring of 1895 the Presbyterian church in -Chong Dong, Seoul, decided to build themselves a place of -worship. The people were all of them poor, even according -to Korean ideas, paper-hangers, carpenters, small retail -shopkeepers, farmers, policemen, soldiers, interpreters, -writers, copyists, even chair coolies, gardeners and -peddlers, the richest of them rarely earning more than five -dollars in gold a month. So we missionaries decided to -raise the most of the two thousand yen necessary among -ourselves, encouraging the natives to give as much as they -could.</p> - -<p>Mr. Underwood, however, in trying to impress them -with the duty of supporting the Lord’s work liberally, was -met one day with the remark, that this was called a foreign -religion, and so it was difficult to convince natives -that foreigners should not pay its way. “And so it will -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">133</span> -continue to be regarded,” said my husband, “just as long as -you allow foreign money to be used in carrying it forward. -When you build and own your churches, send out your -own evangelists, and support your own schools, then both -you and others will feel and realize it is not a foreign -affair, but your own.”</p> - -<p>“Then,” said the deacon, “we will build the Chong -Dong church ourselves.” Mr. Underwood was astonished. -“How can you build such a church?” said he. The deacon -replied, “Does the pastor ask such a question of what relates -to God’s work? With God all things are possible.” -Nothing, of course, remained to be said. The missionaries -decided that it would be wiser for them to own the land, -in case of possible political complications, but the building -itself would cost the whole of one thousand yen. The people -went to work with a will, the pastor and one or two -other missionaries took off their coats and lent a hand at -the work, boys hauled stones, Korean gentlemen, scholars, -and teachers who had never lifted anything heavier than -a pen, set themselves to work on the building, carpenters -gave their skilled labor every alternate day, working for -their own living only one out of every two, women saved a -little rice from each bowl prepared for the family until -enough was laid aside to be sold, and gave the money thus -earned, and so in manifold ways the money came in and -the work grew. At length, however, there were no more -funds and the building came to a standstill. No one was -willing to go into debt, even to borrow of the missionaries, -and it was decided to wait until the way opened.</p> - -<p>Just when everything seemed hopelessly blocked, the -epidemic of Asiatic cholera broke out. Why Koreans do -not have this every summer raging through the whole -country is one of the unsolved problems. All sewage runs -into filthy, narrow ditches, which are frequently stopped up -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">134</span> -with refuse, so as to overflow into the streets, green slimy -pools of water lie undisturbed in courtyards and along -the side of the road, wells are polluted with drainage from -soiled apparel washed close by, quantities of decaying -vegetable matter are thrown out and left to rot on the -thoroughfares and under the windows of the houses. -Every imaginable practice which comes under the definition -of unhygienic or unsanitary is common. Even young -children in arms eat raw and green cucumbers, unpeeled, -acrid berries and heavy soggy hot bread. They bolt quantities -of hot or cold rice, with a tough, indigestible cabbage, -washed in ditch water, prepared with turnips and -flavored with salt and red pepper. Green fruit of every -kind is eaten with perfect recklessness of all the laws of -nature, and with impunity (and I must say, an average -immunity from disastrous consequence) which makes a -Westerner stand aghast. Any of us would surely die -promptly and deservedly if we presumed to venture one-tenth -of the impertinences and liberties with Dame Nature -which a Korean smilingly and unconcernedly takes for -granted as his common right.</p> - -<p>The only solution I have ever reached, and that I hold -but weakly, is, that in accordance with the law of the survival -of the fittest, none but exceptionally hardy specimens -ever reach adolescence, or even early childhood, and that -having survived the awful tests of infancy, they are able -to endure most trials which befall later.</p> - -<p>But even these, so to speak, galvanized-iron interiors are -not always proof. It takes time, but every five or six -years, by great care and industry, a bacillus develops itself, -so hardened, so well armed, so deeply toxic, that even Koreans -must succumb, and then there is an epidemic of -cholera. Eight years before, in 1887, the plague swept -through the land, and thousands fell. Christians, both -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">135</span> -missionaries and natives, united in prayers that God would -stay the scourge. Physicians pronounced it contrary to -the laws of nature that it should stop before frost came to -kill the bacilli, but, in wonderful justification of faith, the -ravages of the plague were abruptly checked in the midst -of the terrible heat of the last days of August and the first -of September. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">136</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Difficulty of Enforcing Quarantine Regulations—Greedy Officials -“Eat” Relief Funds—Americans Stand Alone to Face the -Foe—The Emergency Cholera Hospital—The Inspection -Officers—We Decide to Use the Shelter—A Pathetic Case—The -Jesus Man—Gratitude of the Koreans—The New -Church—The Murder of the Queen—Testimony of Foreigners—The -Official Report.</p></blockquote> - -<p>And now again the rod was to fall. The disease began -with terrible violence, men in full vigor in the morning -were corpses at noon, several members of the same family -often dying the same day. It cropped out in one neighborhood -after another with a steadily marked increase -every day, that was frightful in its unrelenting, unswerving -ferocity. The Japanese and many of the more enlightened -Koreans took the alarm early, and seeking the -counsel of European and American physicians planned to -establish quarantine and sanitary regulations for the -whole country, but as an astute young Korean sadly remarked, -“It is easy enough to make the laws, it is more -than doubtful whether they can be enforced.”</p> - -<p>If officials and soldiers are sent to enforce quarantine, -there is little doubt among those who know customs and -people that only too many of them will be susceptible to a -very small bribe. When the necessity for quarantining -Seoul from Chemulpo was mentioned, the high officials -themselves said it would be impossible on account of the -importance of the trade between the two places. One instance -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">137</span> -will show the hopelessness of the attempt to carry -out sanitary regulations.</p> - -<p>In the effort to prevent the enormous and insane consumption -of green apples, melons and cucumbers, the sale -of these articles was forbidden with a penalty for buyer -and seller, and notices of the law posted everywhere. And -yet, soon after, my husband passed a stand where they -were being sold in large numbers, over which one of these -very notices was hung, and several policemen among the -buyers were munching the forbidden fruit with a calm -relish, edifying to behold. It is due to the government to -say that they seemed thoroughly awakened to the situation -and were doing all in their power, but were handicapped -by the deplorable corruption of many officials. Twenty -thousand yen (ten thousand dollars) were granted to fix -up a temporary emergency cholera hospital, enforce sanitary -laws and prevent the advance of the plague, but this -money was, to use a common Korean phrase, “eaten” by -greedy underlings on all hands. In the preparation of the -hospital, more than twice the number of carpenters needed -were employed, and these men passed their time making -little articles for private sale, or in standing about doing -nothing. A number of petty officials were hired to do -little, and improved on their commission by doing nothing -but receive their pay.</p> - -<p>At a general meeting of the physicians then in the city, -European, American and Japanese, Dr. Avison having -been chosen by vote director of this emergency hospital -and the sanitary work, the Japanese all withdrew, saying -they did not care to work under a Westerner, and in the -end the Americans only were left to face the foe.</p> - -<p>After many discouragements and hindrances an old barracks -building was roughly prepared to receive patients, -and a corps of nurses and doctors, composed of quite a -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">138</span> -number of missionaries (Methodists, Baptists and Presbyterians, -with the assistance of hired Koreans) was -formed. The building was very poorly fitted up for such -an exigency, the haste with which it was necessary to get -it ready, and the character of the place, precluded the possibility -of making it very suitable for the purpose. It was -open, damp and chilly, with no means of warming or -secluding the patients. It was only scantily furnished -with such absolute necessities as could be had at short -notice in the city. And think not, Oh civilized medical -community in America! that “necessities” according to -your ideas are synonymous with “necessities” according -to our possibilities in Asia. Perhaps you have a fossilized -idea that beds and sheets and pillows are necessities. By -no means. Our patients lay on the floor, covered with -small cotton wool rugs, and back-breaking business it was -to nurse them.</p> - -<p>But the discouragements connected with our work was -not merely the lack of conveniences and almost dire -necessities, or the want of proper enforcement of sanitary -regulations and of co-operation, and although Dr. Avison -and the foreign staff under him worked heroically, and -with unwearied devotion, it was an unequal struggle. -The majority of natives are not willing to go to hospitals, -and it would have been dangerous to try to force them, -while many will not permit foreign doctors to treat them -even in their homes, or else use Korean medicines with -ours. But alas! in many cases the disease is so violent as -to defy all that science, aided by every advantage, can do.</p> - -<p>It is the most desperately, deadly thing I ever saw, and -often medicines seem useless to do more than slightly -defer the ultimate result. The poison attacks the nerve -centers at once, and every organ is affected. Terrible -cramps contract the muscles, the heart fails, the extremities -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">139</span> -grow cold, the pulse becomes imperceptible, the mind -wanders, or suddenly, without previous symptoms, the -victim falls and dies at once. Or, after the most violent -symptoms of the disease have disappeared, vomiting and -pain have ceased, the pulse has become almost normal and -the patient nearly ready to be discharged, a mysterious -change comes, and the poor victim dies of pneumonia, -uræmic convulsions, or some of the other sequellæ of this -frightful disease.</p> - -<p>Mr. Underwood was placed in charge of inspection -offices, which were opened in different districts over the -whole city, and all cases reported there received immediate -attention. Several of his young Christians were -trained by him to carry on this work, he himself at first -going out with them, hunting up infected localities, using -disinfectants, and teaching the helpers and residents how -to purify the premises. These young men worked indefatigably, -with intelligence, enthusiasm and courage. -The inspectors and all the doctors and nurses wore a -badge, consisting of the red cross over the Korean flag, so -that even in heathen Korea the sign of the cross was carried -everywhere, and dominated the emblem of the Korean -government.</p> - -<p>The people picked up the idea that lime was a mysterious -agent in preventing disease, so it was not uncommon -to see a handful of it scattered, a few grains here -and there, along the edges of some of the filthiest ditches, -or a gourd whitewashed with lime hanging by the door -as a sort of charm to drive away cholera.</p> - -<p>Koreans call it “the rat disease,” believing that cramps -are rats gnawing and crawling inside the legs, going up -till the heart is reached; so they offer prayers to the spirit -of the cat, hang a paper cat on the house door, and rub -their cramps with a cat’s skin. They offered prayers and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">140</span> -sacrifices in various high places to the heavens—Hananim—and -some of the streets in infected districts were almost -impassable on account of ropes stretched across, about -five feet high, at intervals of about every twenty-five feet, -to which paper prayers were attached. As my coolies, -trying to pass along with my chair, broke one of these, I -could not help admonishing the owner who came to its -rescue, “<i>Better put them up a little higher</i>.”</p> - -<p>Aye, put them up higher, poor Korean brother, they -are far too near the earth! One of the most pathetic -sights in connection with this plague were these poor, -wind-torn, rain-bedraggled, paper prayers, hanging helplessly -everywhere, the offering of blind superstition to -useless dumb gods who can neither pity nor hear.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“They reach lame hands of faith and grope<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And gather dust and chaff.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Early in August it was decided, as the plague seemed on -the increase, to fill the “Shelter” with cholera patients, -and Dr. Avison assigned to Dr. Wells, Mr. Underwood -and myself the supervision and care of this place.</p> - -<p>The “Shelter,” situated on a good high site outside the -walls, with a number of comfortable rooms, with the possibility -of hot floors (which proved an unspeakable benefit -to the poor cold, pulseless sick), seemed an ideal place for -the purpose. It was not very large, it is true, but as most -of our patients were either quickly cured or quickly succumbed, -we were able to receive a goodly number. -Mr. Underwood and Dr. Wells worked indefatigably, -stocking it with everything obtainable which could be of -use.</p> - -<p>My husband arranged for a corps of voluntary native -nurses. As the only missionaries available were at work -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">141</span> -elsewhere, and we had seen too much of hired native official -nurses, he decided to ask some of his Christian helpers -to do this service for the love of Christ. Cholera is a -loathsome disease, only love makes it easy to nurse faithfully -and tenderly these poor afflicted creatures, without -overwhelming disgust.</p> - -<p>Some of the men thus approached belonged to the -scholar and gentlemen class, who had never done manual -work of any kind, and at first they hesitated. However, -they at last decided to undertake the task, and with willing -hands and a little training, they turned out to be very -satisfactory nurses, faithful and devoted, never shirking -the most difficult and repelling work. Every evening a -service of prayer and song was held in the central court -of the Shelter, where all who were conscious could hear, -and we believe that the blessing on that work came in answer -to these united prayers, and the public acknowledgment -of absolute dependence in God. Here, too, the -workers gained new enthusiasm and the strength born of -faith and hope.</p> - -<p>Dr. Wells’ brilliant management deserves the highest -praise. The necessity of caring for my little one, lying -sick five miles away, allowed me only alternate nights of -service at the hospital, so the labor for the other two members -of our trio was severe, but while the need lasted -strength was given.</p> - -<p>Unspeakably pathetic were many of the scenes we were -forced to witness. One poor woman, only that day -widowed, with three little ones to care for, was brought in -cold and almost pulseless. We spent the night trying to -save this poor mother. Early in the morning her eldest, -a dear little fellow of eleven, came to watch with and take -care of her. To see the anxious little face (a child’s face -in the shadow of a great sorrow is the saddest thing on -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">142</span> -earth) as he chafed her hands and affirmed, half interrogatively, -how much warmer they were now than before, -and as he looked eagerly to us, every time we entered saying, -“Will she live, will she live?” was enough to make -one ready to die for that life. We felt that woman must -live. And yet—. After a long contest the pulse revived, -the extremities grew warm, nearly all untoward symptoms -disappeared, we all dared to hope. “She will live now,” -joyfully said the child. “Oh, if I could live, it would be -good!” said the now conscious mother. But alas! next -day the three little ones were motherless and fatherless, -and another sad funeral, with one drooping little mourner, -joined the awful procession, which nightly filed through -the city gates, and covered the surrounding hills with new-made -graves. One poor old father watched and tended -his boy of fourteen with agonized devotion. The only one -left to his old age of what was a few days before a large -family. We all worked over the lad with strong hopes, so -young, and many of the old had recovered, so much -needed, surely he would be spared, but at length the cold -young form grew a little colder, the tired little pulse ceased -to flutter, and a broken old man followed his last hope to -the grave.</p> - -<p>And yet we had great cause for devout thankfulness -that so many of our patients were spared. Sixty-five per -cent of recoveries is almost unheard of, and yet this was -our record at the Shelter.</p> - -<p>Under God we ascribed this large percentage of cures, -mainly to the three following causes: The use of salol as -early and in as large doses as possible. Keeping the patients -on the very hot floor till warmth returned and circulation -improved. And the conscientious and untiring -nursing by the native Christians.</p> - -<p>Of course this is not the place, nor have I the time, to -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">143</span> -go into a minute description of the various remedies and -forms of treatment used. We believed we were reaching -the case with salol, but various other remedies also were -used to control the symptoms. In fact, everything we -knew was done, and all must be done quickly or not at all. -Many of the cases brought to us were in a state of collapse -when they arrived. Often the pulse was not perceptible, -and yet repeatedly, where we felt that treatment -was hopeless, the hot floor and vigorous chafing, with -hypodermic administration of stimulants, brought about -sufficient reanimation to make it possible to take the salol, -and this seemed to act miraculously. It was in obedience -to Dr. Wells’ suggestion that we tried this drug which -proved such a blessing. In one case, that of a young man -of high rank, his family despaired of his life from the first, -and finally went home to prepare his grave clothes, but -on returning with them in the morning, found him, to -their joy and amazement, quite out of danger. Another -striking case was that of an old lady nearly seventy years -of age. Her son and daughter, as a last resort, but quite -hopelessly, brought her to us. She was far gone, unconscious, -and almost pulseless. We rubbed her cold extremities -with alcohol, keeping her quite warm on a fine -hot floor (she lay practically on a stove all night), and to -the astonishment of all, after a few hours, steady improvement -began and she was soon restored to her delighted -friends.</p> - -<p>I insert here our medical record, for the benefit of medical -readers, giving all the uninterested the privilege of -skipping. We received altogether 173 patients, of whom -61 died; of those received, 18 arrived dying or dead; 95 -were taken in rigid, of whom only 42 died; 35 were verging -on collapse, of whom 2 died; 4 were in partial collapse, -of whom none died; 20 were in the first stage, of whom -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">144</span> -none died. Of those who died, 25 never reacted, 2 had -puerperal complications, 2 were already affected with -tuberculosis, 3 developed cerebral meningitis, 1 complication -of chronic cystitis, 1 chronic nephritis, and 2 received -no salol.</p> - -<p>All these recoveries made no little stir in the city, -especially as elsewhere nearly two-thirds of those affected -died. Proclamations were posted on the walls, telling people -there was no need for them to die when they might -go to the Christian hospital and live. People who watched -missionaries working over the sick night after night said -to each other, “How these foreigners love us, would we -do as much for one of our own kin as they do for -strangers?” Some men who saw Mr. Underwood hurrying -along the road in the gray twilight of a summer morning -remarked, “There goes the Jesus man, he works all -night and all day with the sick without resting.” “Why -does he do it?” said another. “Because he loves us,” was -the reply. What sweeter reward could be had than that -the people should see the Lord in our service. Surely the -plague was not all evil when it served to bring the Lord -more clearly to the view of the souls he died to save.</p> - -<p>A tolerably fair count of the deaths inside the walls each -day was possible, since all the dead are carried through -two or three gates. The numbers rose gradually to something -over three hundred a day and then gradually declined, -the plague lasting not quite six weeks. The extra-mural -population is probably as large as the intra-mural, -including the people within the two miles radius outside -the walls. All taken together there are between three -and four hundred thousand people.</p> - -<p>When the plague was nearly over the following very -grateful letter of thanks from the Korean office of Foreign -Affairs was sent through the American minister. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">145</span></p> - -<blockquote> -<p> -<span class="smcap">The Department of Foreign Affairs.</span><br /> -504th Year, 7th Moon, 3d Day.</p> -<p class="author"> -August 22d, 1895.</p> -<p> -<i>Kim, Minister of Foreign Affairs,<br /> -to Mr. Sill, United States Minister.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>: I have the honor to say that my government is deeply -grateful to ————— and his friends who have -spent a great deal of money for medicines and labored in the -management of cholera, resulting in the cure of many sick people. -I trust your excellency will kindly convey an expression -of thanks to them on behalf of my government. I am, etc., etc.</p> - -<p> -(<i>Signed</i>) <span class="author smcap">Kim Yun Sik.</span><br /> -</p></blockquote> - -<p>Gifts were sent to the missionaries, who had assisted -at the hospitals, of rolls of silk, fans, little silver inkstands, -having the name of the Home Office and the recipient engraved -upon them, and most interesting of all, a kind of -mosaic mats made of a peculiar sort of reeds grown for the -purpose at the island of Kang Wha. These mats have -bits of the reeds of different colors skilfully inlaid to form -the pattern, and that on those which were given to us was -at one end the national emblem, at the other the red cross -and the name of the Home Office.</p> - -<p>This was of course extremely gratifying. No, more, it -was a thing for which to be profoundly grateful that government -and people recognized that we, the representatives -of our Lord (however inefficient and unworthy), -were their friends, and, as far as in us lay, their helpers.</p> - -<p>The best, however, was to come. The names of the -Koreans who had nursed and served at the Shelter and inspection -offices were asked for, and the intention to pay -them stated. We told them that the men had done this -with no expectation of pay, but to this they would not -listen and insisted on rewarding them handsomely. On -the receipt of this unexpected, and, for them, large sum, -almost all the Christians (quite voluntarily, and to our -surprise) put it all into the fund for the new church, considering -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">146</span> -it a gift of God, specially sent in answer to -prayer, to help them in the enterprise undertaken in faith.</p> - -<p>They were, therefore, now able to go on and finish the -church, which accommodates, with crowding, two hundred -people. It is an unpretentious building, entirely -native, substantial as possible with mud walls, tiled roof -and paper windows, yet built and finished much in the -style of the best Korean houses, none of which knew, at -that time, what it was to boast of a pane of glass, or brick -or stone walls. Into it the little congregation flocked, -and with glad hearts dedicated to God the work of their -hands, which through sacrifice, love, faith and prayer -was more costly and precious in his sight than gold or -ivory, which had not been so sanctified.</p> - -<p>Not long after the cholera epidemic, and the events -connected with it, occurred the tragedy at the palace—the -murder of the brilliant and progressive queen, the friend -of progress, civilization and reform.</p> - -<p>Her majesty was a brilliant diplomatist, and usually -worsted her opponents. The Japanese, after the war, had -indeed proclaimed the independence of Korea, yet seemed -in practice to desire to establish a sort of protectorate and -to direct her policy at home and abroad. Many public -offices were filled with citizens of Japan, or Japanese sympathizers -as far as possible, and a large body of the -Korean troops were drilled by and under the command -of Japanese officers.</p> - -<p>Realizing that in the patriotic and brilliant queen they -had to meet one who would not readily submit to their -plans for the Japanizing of Korea, they objected to her -participation at all in the affairs of government, and -were promised, under compulsion we were told, that these -orders should be obeyed. Naturally this was not done, -and the queen continued to be a source of confusion and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">147</span> -rock of offense to them and their plans. Finally a -decided change was made in the personnel of the Japanese -embassy. Count Inoye, who, in the name of his government, -had hitherto promised to the queen the support and -protection of Japan was recalled. He was replaced by -Count Miura, who was a man of very different tendencies. -Count Miura was a very strong Buddhist, and passionately -devoted to the supposed interests of Japan as against -those of any other nation.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="THE_ROUND_GATE_SEOUL" src="images/p146.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE ROUND GATE, SEOUL</p></div> - -<p>One morning, the 8th of October, 1895, we heard firing -at the palace. This was in time of peace, and such sounds -we knew must be portents of evil. All was confusion, -nothing definite could be learned, except that certain -Japanese troops had arrived at about three in the morning, -escorting the Tai Won Kun (the king’s father and -the queen’s bitter enemy), and had driven out the native -royal guard under General Dye (an American) and were -now guarding the palace gates. The air was full of -ominous suspicions and whispers, but nothing more definite -could we learn till afternoon, when meeting a Korean -noble, he told us with face all aghast, that it was currently -reported that the queen had been murdered.</p> - -<p>In a few hours this news was confirmed with particulars. -The Tai Won Kun was at that time under -guard, in exile from the court, at his country house, for -conspiracy against the king in favor of his grandson, and -he of course readily consented to become the leader of the -plotters against the queen, to enter the palace at the head -of their troops and take possession of the persons of their -majesties (and the government incidentally), necessarily, -of course, doing away with the queen. The troops therefore -marched with the old man in his chair to the palace -gates, where all had been made ready. Ammunition had -been secretly removed, native troops trained by Americans -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">148</span> -had been mostly exchanged for those trained by Japanese, -and after a few shots, and scarcely a pretence of resistance, -the attacking party entered. It was some distance -to the royal apartments, and the rumor of disturbance -reached there some time before the attacking party. Her -majesty was alarmed. She was a brave woman, but she -knew she had bitter, powerful and treacherous foes, -and that, like Damocles, a sword suspended by only too -slight a thread hung over her life.</p> - -<p>The king’s second son, Prince Oui-wha, begged her to -escape with him by a little gate which yet remained unguarded, -through which they might pass disguised to -friends in the city. The dowager queen, however, was -too old to go, and her majesty nobly refused to leave her -alone to the terror which occupation of the palace by -foreigners would insure, trusting no doubt to the positive -assurances of protection that had been made to her -through Count Inoye, and the more so, as one of the -courtiers in waiting, a man by the name of Chung Pung -Ha, had assured her that whatever happened she might -rest confident that the persons of their majesties would be -perfectly safe. This man was a creature of low origin, -whom the queen had raised and bestowed many favors -upon, and in whom she placed great reliance. He advised -her not to hide, and kept himself informed of all her -movements. With no code of honor wider or higher than -his pocket, he of course became a ready tool of the -assassins, and there is much evidence to show he was a -party to the conspiracy.</p> - -<p>The queen therefore remained in a good deal of uneasiness -and anxiety, but only when the Tai Won Kun -and the hired assassins rushed in, calling for the queen, -did she attempt, alas! too late, to hide.</p> - -<p>There was some confusion, in the numerous verbal reports -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">149</span> -which reached us, but two foreigners, a Russian, -Mr. Sabbatin, and an American, General Dye, who were -eye-witnesses of nearly all that occurred, both agreed in -the statement, that Japanese troops under Japanese officers -surrounded the courtyard and buildings where the -royal party were, and that the Japanese officers were in -the courtyard, and saw the outrages which were committed, -and knew all that was done by the Japanese <i>soshi</i> -or professional cutthroats. About thirty of these assassins -rushed into the royal apartments crying, “The queen, the -queen, where is the queen?”</p> - -<p>Then began a mad and brutal hunt for their prey, more -like wild beasts than men, seizing the palace women,<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">1</a> -dragging them about by their hair and beating them, trying -to force them to tell where the queen was. Mr. Sabbatin -was himself questioned and threatened with death. -The <i>soshi</i> and officers who wore the Japanese uniform -passed through the room where his majesty stood trying -to divert attention from the queen. “One of the Japanese -caught him by the shoulder and pulled him about, and Yi -Kiung Chick, the minister of the royal household, was -killed by the Japanese in his majesty’s presence. His royal -highness, the crown prince, was seized, his hat torn off -and broken, and he was pulled about by the hair, the <i>soshi</i> -threatening him with their swords while demanding -where the queen was.”<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">2</a> At length they hunted the poor -queen down, and killed her with their swords. They then -covered her body, and bringing in various palace women, -suddenly displayed the corpse, when the women shrieked -with horror, “The queen, the queen!” This was enough; -by this ruse the assassins made sure they had felled the -right victim.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">1</a> -“Korean Repository,” 1895.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">2</a> -From official report of “Korean Repository.”</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">150</span></p> - -<p>Soon after, the remains were taken to a grove of trees -not far off, kerosene oil poured over them, and they were -burned, only a few bones remaining.</p> - -<p>Later developments all went to prove that the murderers -were actually guilty of the inconceivable folly of -imagining that by this means it would be possible to conceal -the crime and their share in it.</p> - -<p>Stories of all sorts were circulated, as that her majesty -had escaped and was lying concealed, or that she had -simply been removed for a time by the Japanese, who -could bring her back at any moment. In the official account -of the murder, and of the trial of Count Miura and the -<i>soshi</i>, held in Hiroshima, Japan, for which I am indebted -to “The Korean Repository” for 1895, the following -words occur: “The accused Miura Gow assumed his -official duties ... on September 1, 1895. According to -his observation, things in Korea were tending in the -wrong direction, the court was daily growing more and -more arbitrary, and attempting wanton interference with -the conduct of State affairs. Disorder and confusion were -in this way introduced into the system of administration -that had just been reorganized under the guidance and -advice of the Imperial government. The court went so far -in turning its back upon Japan that a project was mooted -for disbanding the <i>Kurentai</i> troops (Koreans under Japanese -officers) and punishing their officers. Moreover, a -report came to the said Miura that the court had under -contemplation a scheme for usurping all political power -by degrading some and killing others of the cabinet ministers -suspected of devotion to the cause of progress and -independence. Under these circumstances he was greatly -perturbed, inasmuch as he thought that the attitude -assumed by the court not only showed remarkable ingratitude -towards this country, which had spent labor and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">151</span> -money for the sake of Korea, but was also calculated to -thwart the work of internal reform and ‘jeopardize the independence -of the kingdom.’”</p> - -<p>The report then proceeds to state that the accused felt it -necessary to apply a remedy which would on the one hand -“secure the independence of the Korean kingdom, and on -the other <i>maintain the prestige of this empire in that country</i>!” -The report further proceeds to state, that conferences -were held with the Tai Won Kun and with Japanese -officials, at one of which, October 3rd, “The decision arrived -at on that occasion was that assistance should be -rendered to the Tai Won Kun’s entry into the palace by -making use of the <i>Kurentai</i>, who, being hated by the -court, felt themselves in danger, and of the young men -who deeply lamented the course of events, and also by -causing the Japanese troops stationed in Seoul to offer -their support to the enterprise. It was further resolved -that this opportunity should be availed of for taking the -life of the queen, who exercised overwhelming influence -in the court.”</p> - -<p>After further particulars in the completion of the plan -the Japanese document continues: “Miura told them -(the men who were to escort the Tai Won Kun) that on -the success of the enterprise depended the eradication of -the evils that had done so much mischief to the kingdom -for the past twenty years, and instigated them to despatch -the queen when they entered the palace.” The report then -goes on at some length, describing the various steps taken -in carrying out the conspiracy, and continues: “Then -slowly proceeding toward Seoul the party met the <i>Kurentai</i> -troops outside the west gate of the capital, where they -waited some time for the Japanese troops.... About -dawn the whole party entered the palace through the -Kwang-hwa gate, and at once proceeded to the inner -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">152</span> -chambers. Notwithstanding these facts there is no sufficient -evidence to prove that any of the accused actually -committed the crime originally meditated by them.... -For these reasons, the accused, each and all, are hereby -discharged.... The documents and other articles seized -in connection with this case are restored to their respective -owners.</p> - -<p class="table"> -<span class="trow tdr">Given at Hiroshima local court by</span> -<span class="trow tdr"><span class="smcap">Yoshida Yoshida</span>,</span> -<span class="trow tdr">Judge of Preliminary inquiry,</span> -<span class="trow tdr"><span class="smcap">Tamura Yoshiharu</span>,</span> -<span class="trow tdr">Clerk of the court.</span> -</p> - -<p>Dated 20th day of the first month of the twenty-ninth -year of Yeiji.</p> - -<p>This copy has been taken from the original text.</p> - -<p class="author"> -Clerk of the local court of Hiroshima.”<br /> -</p> - -<p>This document needs no comment. Count Miura was -recently restored to all his titles and dignities which had -been temporarily removed. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">153</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>The Palace after the Murder—Panic—Attitude of Foreign Legations—The -King’s Life in Hourly Danger—Noble Refugees—Americans -on Guard—Mistakes of the New Government—Objectionable -Sumptuary Laws—A Plan to Rescue the -King—One Night at the Palace—Forcing an Entrance—Our -Little Drama—Escape of General Yun.</p></blockquote> - -<p>In the meantime the king and crown prince were held -prisoners in their own palace by a cabinet composed of -Koreans who were favorable to the Japanese government. -Immediately after the death of the queen, before the soldiers -and assassins had dispersed, the Japanese minister -had come to the palace and requested an audience. According -to the official report, Count Miura, with his secretary, -Mr. Sugimma,<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">3</a> the Tai Won Kun, and a Japanese, -who had led the <i>soshi</i>, were all present at this audience, -and presented three papers to the king for signature, one -being that the cabinet should henceforth manage the -affairs of the country, one that Prince Yi Chai Miun -should be minister of the royal household, and the other -appointing a vice-minister of the household. The king -shaken by the events of the night, and helpless in the -hands of his enemies, signed all three. Then the Japanese -troops were withdrawn, and the <i>Kurentai</i> alone left on -guard. Soon after the ministers of war and police departments -were changed for pro-Japanese, “so that all the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">154</span> -armed forces of the government, and even the personal attendants -of his majesty” were under the control of the -opponents of the royal person and family.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">3</a> -See “Korean Repository” official account of the murder of -the queen.</p></div> - -<p>Mr. Waeber, the Russian minister, and Dr. Allen, -Chargé d’Affaires of the United States, having heard the -firing, arrived at the palace, while the Japanese minister -was still there, and were made acquainted by the king to -some extent concerning the occurrences which had just -taken place. The poor king was in a state of shock -amounting to almost complete prostration, which was -pitiable to behold, after the awful experiences of the night -and the brutal murder of his idolized queen.</p> - -<p>The friends and connections of the royal family, officials, -soldiers, servants and hangers on about the palace, -of whom there were several thousands, were all in the -wildest panic. Every one was rushing in mad haste to -escape from the confines of the palace grounds, and uniforms -or anything that could distinguish men as belonging -to the court were recklessly torn off and thrown away. -The American, Russian and English legations were -thronged with people, anxious for shelter from the hands -of those who composed the band of Korean traitors. The -foreign representatives felt and showed much indignation -over the cruel assassination of her majesty and sympathy -for the king.</p> - -<p>For some time they visited the palace every day. As -they refused to recognize the rebel government, they -probably felt obliged to see his majesty personally, in -order to know his wishes and policy, and it is also most -likely that, feeling much uncertainty as to the intentions -of the persons in whose hands the king was, they wished -to keep themselves informed, and perhaps to keep in check -any plans of violence toward the remaining members of -the royal family. Mr. Underwood was requested to accompany -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">155</span> -the United States minister as interpreter, while -the French bishop acted in the same capacity for the -representative of France, since none of the native interpreters -could be trusted under such circumstances.</p> - -<p>And right here I would stop to ask, why is it that in -matters of such extreme importance as the affairs of state -between our own government and Eastern nations, there -have been up to this time no trained American interpreters, -and our highest officials are obliged to depend upon -the more than doubtful native interpreters, who even when -not wilfully for their own purposes, or through their -own cowardice, misrepresenting communications of the -greatest importance, may through incapability entirely -misconceive the idea to be expressed, or through carelessness -omit the most significant part of the whole sentence?</p> - -<p>The king was to be seen only under the strictest surveillance -of the cabinet, and apparently was under extreme -coercion, so that he did not consider it expedient to -say anything contrary to their orders and policy. On rare -occasions, when their attention was called for a few moments -by some of the visiting party, his majesty contrived -to convey to Mr. Underwood a whispered message, -a sign, a tiny note slipped in his palm, by which he briefly -communicated his desires, or plans, or his real replies to -questions which had already been answered publicly in accordance -with the views of his enemies. As the king stood -in hourly fear of poison, and not without reason, since his -unscrupulous and unnatural father, the Tai Won Kun, -was most desirous to replace him by his grandson, -through another son, and as so many of the conspirators -surrounding the king had now so much at stake, were -in so dangerous a position, and were men who had already -proved they would stop at nothing where their own interest -was concerned, he would take no food for some time -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">156</span> -but condensed milk brought in sealed cans and opened in -his presence, or eggs cooked in the shells. Hearing of -this, and glad to take advantage of an opportunity however -small to show our sympathy, the ladies from one of -the European legations and myself alternated in sending -specially prepared dishes, such articles as contained the -greatest amount of nourishment, as well as of agreeable -taste.</p> - -<p>They were sent in a tin box, provided with a Yale lock. -Mr. Underwood, who was now going as interpreter and -messenger between the legations and palace, sometimes -twice a day, carried the key, and placed it in the king’s -own hand, while the box was carried in at any convenient -time by the ordinary officials. It was only a small service, -but it was to some extent a relief to be allowed to do anything -for those who had a claim upon our loyalty, and who -had been so shockingly outraged.</p> - -<p>One day as Mr. Underwood was going in to his majesty -he met the old Tai Won Kun, who said, “Why do you take -all that good food in to him? He doesn’t need it. I am -old, my teeth are gone, I need it far more than he.” The -crafty and cruel old human tiger’s teeth and claws were -still only too serviceable, alas! For a long time after the -death of the queen, nearly seven weeks, Americans, one or -two at a time, were asked to be at the palace every night, -as it was thought that with foreigners there as witnesses, -the conspirators, whoever they might be, would hesitate -to commit any further outrages. There is little doubt that -had they thought it necessary to commit regicide, the lives -of the witnesses would have been sacrificed as well, but -Easterners stand in considerable fear of the wrath of the -Western nations, when their citizens are killed, and no -doubt the chances of violence to his majesty and the -crown prince were somewhat diminished by the presence -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">157</span> -of the missionaries, who night after night, two and two, -left the congenial task of preaching the gospel of peace to -insure the continuance of it (or that small fraction which -at that time was left to poor Korea).</p> - -<p>We wives at home, keeping lonely vigil, while our husbands -sentineled the palace, listened with sharpened ears -for sounds of ill-omen from that direction. But both they -and we were glad of this service, rejoicing to prove that -we were the friends of the people and the rightful ruler, -from highest to lowest, and we were specially glad that -those who had been called disloyal, because they refused -to obey the decree which forbade preaching the gospel, -were now able to show themselves the most active and unwearied -in serving the king.</p> - -<p>The day after the assassination, the king’s second son, -Prince Oui-wha, sent to ask refuge in our house, where, -this being American property, he would be safe from arrest. -The legations were all full of refugees of high rank, -and several were staying in our Korean <i>sarang</i> or guest -room. We were, of course, delighted to receive the young -prince, and also to have this further opportunity to prove -our regard for him. In consequence of the presence of -these refugees we were honored by being kept under continual -espionage by the pseudo-government, our compound -constantly watched by spies at all exits, by day and -night. It seemed monstrous to me, who had never known -any of the class whose movements are watched by detectives, -nor ever dreamed of coming in any way into collision -with any government (much less of being of sufficient -importance to do so), but perhaps it was the spirit -of revolutionary forefathers which made me believe, that -if governments were wrong, right-minded people must -oppose them, and that if sheltering the friends of the just -and lawful ruler from a company of conspirators and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">158</span> -traitors was standing in an attitude of hostility to the -powers that be, it was both right and our unavoidable -duty to do what we could to shield them from violence -and death.</p> - -<p>In the meanwhile the new government was appointing -new officials, trying, torturing and executing innocent -people as the accused murderers of the queen, in order to -shield themselves—useless crimes which deceived no one—making -a number of new offices and placing Japanese -in them on large salaries, and making new and farcical, as -well as injurious and objectionable, laws. Women were -not to be allowed to go on the street with covered faces, -pipes must be of a certain length, sleeves must be -shortened and narrowed, coats must be of a particular -color, and hat brims a certain width. This was called -“Kaiwha” or reform. Large numbers of Japanese flocked -to this country and made their way to the capital or into -the interior, in the industrious pursuit of wealth, which -we were informed was not always limited to legitimate -measures, or the possession of sinecures.</p> - -<p>Missionaries returning from the interior reported that -they had heard lamentable tales on all hands, of farmers -strung up by the thumbs, for the extortion of money or -deeds of lands and of women dealt with brutally. The -poor country people were like sheep in the midst of -wolves, their shepherd gone, their fold broken down.</p> - -<p>One of the measures taken by the pro-Japanese government, -which excited great feeling and probably did more -than anything else to arouse protest, because so cruelly -calculated to wound the desolate and stricken king, -was a decree sent through the whole land in the king’s -name declaring the queen a wicked woman and degrading -her to the lowest rank. This they asked the king to sign -and seal, but shaken as he was, he absolutely refused -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">159</span> -so to insult his dead consort, and the cabinet were obliged -to forge his signature, and seal the paper themselves. -This act bore the stamp of the Tai Won Kun, whose -insatiable hate was not satisfied with the murder of the -queen, but followed her with insults to the grave.</p> - -<p>In the midst of these days of confusion and excitement, -the loyalist party, or at least some of them, made an attempt -to rescue the king. This all his friends ardently desired, -but it was very difficult to accomplish, as his -majesty was surrounded constantly by spies and guards, -whose interest as well as whose business it was to keep -him under the strictest surveillance.</p> - -<p>Numbers of Koreans came to my husband with various -schemes for the accomplishment of the king’s release, -seeking his advice and aid, but while he was very willing -to express his sympathy with their object and his disapproval -of the rebel government, he did not consent to any -part in any of their projects, partly because he did not -know whom to trust, and partly because none were such as -he, a missionary, could take part in or support. I do not -doubt, however, that if he could have seen a way to do so, -he would gladly have sacrificed much to have assisted the -king to escape to a place of safety, where he could establish -his own government without fear of the combinations -formed against him.</p> - -<p>The plans of the rescue party were made very secretly, -so that none of the missionaries at least knew anything of -them, though two of the leaders, General Yun and another, -were in our house till a late hour the previous -night, and perhaps to this fact was due the conviction -which a number of people entertained that my husband -was concerned in the loyal but unfortunate plot. The enemies -of the king, however, got wind of the plans of his -friends, and through spies and treachery ferreted it all out, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">160</span> -and prepared themselves fully. One of the traitors, an -army officer, who pretended to be ready to open the gates -and assist the rescue party from within, really disclosed -everything to the false cabinet, and was prepared with -troops to receive and repel the loyalists. On the evening -set for the rescue of the king, just before my husband’s -return from the palace, where he had been all the afternoon, -he found Dr. Avison, of our mission, here at his -home, with news that the Koreans were preparing to attack -the palace that very night, as he had just learned -from one of the party. Mr. Underwood was hardly willing -to credit the idea, sure that all his feelings and sympathies -were so well understood, he would have been informed -had this been the case; but while Dr. Avison was -still in the house, the secretary of the American legation -called, at the request of the American minister, to say that -they had authoritative information of the same thing, and -as the king would no doubt be much alarmed, and would -be in great danger from the traitors, should the attack succeed, -the American minister asked that Mr. Underwood -would spend the night near the king’s person.</p> - -<p>As the gate would probably be closed and admittance -refused to every one, the minister had sent his card for -Mr. Underwood to present in order to gain admission. It -was of course understood that this was only a suggestion, -and that Mr. Underwood was perfectly at liberty to refuse, -but he was really glad to go, and felt honored in being -selected for this service, so he at once consented, and asked -Mr. Hulbert, now of the government school, to accompany -him. Dr. Avison having been called for professionally, -also joined them, and the three men met at the palace -gates, where the guard at once refused to admit them, -positive orders having been sent forbidding the entrance -of any one. Our minister’s card was shown to no apparent -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">161</span> -effect, except that the officer on guard offered to go up -to the palace with it and obtain permission. This Mr. -Underwood knew would be futile, for the cabinet would -almost certainly refuse, so he replied, “No, I must be admitted -at once and without delay, I came at the request of -the United States minister, and if you choose to refuse his -card, and his messenger, you must take the responsibility; -I shall return at once and give him your reply.” As an -officer had been severely punished only a few days before -for refusing entrance to a foreign diplomat, who had left -the palace gates in awful wrath, the men now on guard -hesitated. “Decide, and at once,” said Mr. Underwood -sternly. This conquered, and the Americans hurried in. -They went directly to the king, and making known that -they had come for the night, asked his wishes, and were -requested to wait in General Dye’s rooms, close at hand, to -be ready on the first alarm to take their places near his -person.</p> - -<p>The <i>three guardsmen</i> then repaired to the general’s -room to await developments, where Mr. Underwood had -some conversation with General Dye, and the traitorous -Korean officer, who even then suspecting that Mr. Underwood -had some part in the friendly plot, tried to entrap -him and to induce him to betray himself and the others. -But as my husband knew nothing of the persons engaged, -or any of their plans, and was himself quite innocent of -any complicity in their scheme, it was impossible for any -information to be elicited from him. Suddenly at twelve -o’clock the report of a gun was heard, springing up, he ran -to the king’s apartments, followed closely by the other -two. A line of soldiers was drawn up, standing shoulder -to shoulder along the path, who called “Halt,” sharply, as -he approached; paying no attention he ran swiftly past -them, and before they had time to realize, or to decide -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">162</span> -what to do, Dr. Avison and Mr. Hulbert had followed. -At the door just beyond stood a couple of officers with -drawn swords crossed. Mr. Underwood struck the -swords up with his revolver and rushed through, the other -two men entering immediately behind him, just as they -heard the king calling, “Where are the foreigners, call the -foreigners.” “Here, your majesty. Here we are,” replied -the three men, entering the room, where the king -grasped them by the hand, and kept them on either side of -him the whole night.</p> - -<p>As for the poor half-armed party of the king’s friends, -they were allowed to proceed until well within the prepared -ambush, and when they discovered the trap, it was -almost impossible to escape. Many were captured, some -killed, the rest fled in all directions. This of course -seated more firmly in power the rebels whose position had -till now been more than questionable. Many arrests were -made, and executions and the severest punishments meted -out to those who were convicted of having dared to attempt -the restoration of the king.</p> - -<p>While Mr. Underwood was at the palace we were -having our own little drama at home. A new missionary, -a tall Westerner, had undertaken the protection of the -household, and armed with a big six-shooter, we doubted -not, he was more than equal to any ordinary emergency. -Our chief source of anxiety (as far as our home was concerned) -was the safety of the prince, who with one attendant -only, occupied a room in an ell at the further end of -the house, distant from our apartments. What if when all -attention was concentrated upon the palace, he should be -carried away or murdered in our home, by the enemies of -the country! We felt we were a lamentably small party -of defense, still we hoped our nervous fears were groundless. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">163</span></p> - -<p>Just as we were about to retire, however, at about ten -thirty, a sharp rap came at the door of our missionary -guest’s room, which opened to the garden. This was evidently -some stranger, as any of our acquaintances would -have come to the main entrance. I was called at once, -with the added information that a Japanese officer was -waiting to see me!</p> - -<p>I found a fully armed Japanese in uniform, who asked -for the prince. My suspicions were of course aroused, -especially as I could only conjecture how many battalions -he might have concealed around the corner of the house. -I inquired who he was and why he came at that hour to -see the prince. He replied in good Korean, that he was -his particular friend, and gave me a name which was that -of a Korean whom I knew to be a friend of our guest, -adding that he had dined at our house that day, handing -me a card engraved with Chinese characters. This was -palpably false, as the friend of the prince had long hair, -done in a top-knot, with a Korean hat above it, this man’s -hair was cut short like a Japanese. The Korean wore -white silk garments, this man was from head to foot a -Japanese soldier.</p> - -<p>“This card is Chinese, I cannot read it,” I replied coldly. -“You are a Japanese officer whom I have never seen before, -you cannot see the prince at this hour, you must go -away and return in the morning if you have business with -him.” The man, however, was very insistent on seeing -the prince then, in fact he seemed determined to take no -denials, and the more he persisted, the more I became convinced -that once acquainted with the prince’s whereabouts -in our house, he would call up his concealed assassins and -arrest or kill him. With the strengthening of suspicion, -my temper rose, and my verbs took on lower and lower -endings, until I finally ordered him with the most degrading -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">164</span> -terminations in the grammar, to leave on short order. -All through this conversation our Westerner, who understood -no Korean, had been repeating at intervals, “Shall I -shoot, Mrs. Underwood? If you say so, I’ll shoot,” -brandishing his big revolver in an excited way, dangerous -to all concerned. So at last our visitor considering his attempt -to find the prince hopeless, reluctantly went away. -We felt we had won a great victory, and covered ourselves -with glory, in thus dispersing the enemy.</p> - -<p>In the meanwhile the prince, whose door opened also -in the garden, just opposite the one where we stood, heard -the arrival, the long conference, the clash of a sword -against the steps, and stood guarding his chamber door, -while his attendant with drawn sword guarded that of the -closet, which happening to be locked they supposed also -opened on the garden. Next morning, when I showed the -prince the card, he recognized with high glee the name of -his Korean friend, and shortly afterwards the individual -himself appeared. He had for purposes of disguise cut -his hair that very day, and had donned garments which -completely changed his appearance. It was owing to the -success of this disguise that he had been ordered from our -door with most injurious verb endings. I did not apologize -very abjectly, however, for aside from the fright he -had put me in, he had robbed me of all my glory, and the -occasion of all its romance, and dropped it to the level of -low comedy, and while the laughter of the family was -ringing in my ears, I felt I could not forgive him.</p> - -<p>The morning after the attack on the palace found General -Yun, the leader and promoter, in our sarang, whither -he had fled for shelter, well knowing it would be worse -than useless to go to his own, or any Korean house. He -inquired who had been captured, and on learning how -many there were, remarked, “Then I am a dead man,” well -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">165</span> -knowing the most merciless torture would be used to extract -from the prisoners the names of all concerned, and if -his whereabouts were known, the American minister -would be compelled to give search warrants to the police. -He was an old friend of my husband, who promised to -conceal him as long as possible, and get him out of the -country soon. The Russian minister, who espoused the -king’s cause as warmly as any of us, and who had refused -to recognize the new government, was consulted, and a -plan was formed to get General Yun to China. Next to -our house lay that of another Presbyterian missionary, -and adjoining that the Russian legation, just beyond -which is a kind of diplomatic club-house, and only a few -steps further one of the smaller city gates.</p> - -<p>So Mr. Yun was lodged in the Rev. Mr. M——’s gate-quarters -(between his house and ours), and that night Mr. -Underwood shaved and dressed the general and his friend -in Mr. M——’s and his own clothes, a fur cap well drawn -down concealed his face. Mr. Underwood conducted the -two men thus disguised through the Russian legation, the -club grounds and then through the gates, where they were -never suspected to be other than what they looked. A -short distance beyond the gates chairs were in waiting. -Mr. M—— and a Bible Society agent met them and -escorted them to Chemulpo, where they were met by a -guard from a Russian gunboat, on which they were conveyed -to Chefoo, and there transhipped, and finally landed -safe in Shanghai, where they were gladly received and -hospitably entertained in the house of a M. E. missionary, -until the king was restored to power.</p> - -<p>Mr. Underwood was bitterly accused in Japanese newspapers -of having promoted, and even led the harmless attack -on the palace, and though as he was not only absolutely -innocent, but ignorant of it, and not one particle of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">166</span> -evidence could be found, he was obliged to endure a -great deal of slander, which he would not have considered -worth a second thought had it not been made to reflect on -his profession and the cause he lives only to forward. The -two facts that General Yun was at our house the night before, -and that Mr. Underwood, at the request of our minister -and the king, was at the palace on the eventful night, -were used to give a show of probability to stories widely -circulated, and allowed to remain uncontradicted by those -who knew the facts.</p> - -<p>The conspirators having defeated the restoration party, -now carried things with a high hand indeed, and among -the other obnoxious and tyrannical sumptuary laws, which -they proclaimed as furthering “Kaiwha,” they ordered the -summary removal of all top-knots, from the palace to the -hovel, and it was reported that even the highest personages -were compelled, in spite of useless protests, to undergo -this humiliating treatment, and certain it is that the attempt -was made to shear every sheep in the flock. The explanation -of what this meant must be reserved for another -chapter.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="A_KOREAN_TOP-KNOT" src="images/p166.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">A KOREAN TOP-KNOT. <a href="#Page_167">PAGE 167</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">167</span></p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Customs Centering around the Top-Knot—Christians Sacrificing -their Top-Knots—A Cruel Blow—Beginning of Christian -Work in Koksan—A Pathetic Appeal—People Baptize -Themselves—Hard-hearted Cho—The King’s Escape—People -Rally around Him—Two Americans in the Interior—In -the Midst of a Mob—Mob Fury—Korea in the Arms of -Russia—Celebrating the King’s Birthday—Patriotic Hymns—Lord’s -Prayer in Korean.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Many of the most revered, common, and firmly -settled of the customs and superstitions of the people of -Korea are, as it were, woven, braided, coiled and pinned -into their top-knots, on which, like a hairy keystone, seem -to hang, and round which are centered society, religion -and politics. The pigtail of China is nothing like as important, -for it is really a mark of servitude, or was such -in its origin, a badge laid on the conquered by the conquering -race. But not so the top-knot, which is many centuries -old, and which, according to ancient histories, pictures, -pottery and embroideries, goes as far back as the existence -of the nation.</p> - -<p>When a boy becomes engaged, or is on the point of being -married, a solemn ceremony is performed. In the presence -of proper witnesses, and at the hands of proper functionaries -(among whom are astrologers or soothsayers), -the hair, which has hitherto been parted like a girl’s and -worn in a long braid down the back, is shaved from a small -circular spot on the top of his head, and the remaining -long locks combed smoothly upward, and tied very tightly -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">168</span> -over the shaved place. They are then twisted and coiled -into a small compact knot, between two and three inches -high and about one in diameter. An amber, coral, silver, -or even gold or jewelled pin is usually fastened through -it. The <i>Mangan</i>, a band of net, bound with ribbon, is -then fastened on round the head below the top-knot and -above the ears, holding all stray hairs neatly in place -(when a man obtains rank a small open horse-hair cap is -placed over the top-knot), and over all the hat, which (being -also of open work, bamboo splints, silk or horsehair) -permits it to be seen. Fine new clothes are then donned, -especially a long coat, and the boy has become a man! A -feast is made, and he goes forth to call upon and be congratulated -by his father’s friends. Either on that day or -the following he is married, although, as has been said, -some boys have their hair put up when they become engaged.</p> - -<p>No matter how old one is, without a top-knot he is never -considered a man, addressed with high endings, or treated -with respect. After assuming the top-knot, no matter how -young, he is invested with the dignities and duties of a man -of the family, takes his share in making the offerings and -prayers at the ancestral shrines, and is recognized by his -ancestors’ spirits as one of the family who is to do them -honor, and whom they are to protect and bless. And right -here, to digress a little, it is interesting to note that so -intimately is this custom concerned with their religion -that many of the Christian converts are now cutting off -their top-knots when they become converted, regarding -that as the one step (after destroying their idols) which -most effectually cuts off the old life and its superstitions, -and marks them as having come out from their family and -acquaintances as men set apart.</p> - -<p>They have begun doing this quite of their own accord, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">169</span> -with no suggestion from the missionaries, and in some -cases in opposition to the advice of some of us, who dislike -to see them laying aside old customs needlessly. But -it is growing more and more general among new believers -to sacrifice this dear object of pride and veneration, and -one young fellow told my husband it was impossible to -break away from his old evil associates until he cut his -hair. They then believed he was in earnest and let him -alone. But it costs much, and in these cases is done quite -voluntarily, not in forced obedience to the mandates of -conquerors and traitors, which is a very different -matter.</p> - -<p>Again, far down in the social scale, lower than the boy -with the pigtail, whom every one snubs, ranking next to -the despised butcher, who daily defiles his hands with -blood and gore, and with the touch of dead bodies, is the -Buddhist priest <i>who wears his hair shaved</i>, a creature so -low, that he was not at that time allowed to defile the capital -city by entering its gates. To this grade were all the -sons of Korea now to be reduced. Tender associations of -early manhood, honored family traditions, ghostly superstition, -the anger and disgust of ancestral spirits, the iron -grip of long custom, the loathing of the effeminate, sensual -and despised Buddhist priests, all forbade this desecration. -Their pride, self-respect and dignity were all -assailed and crushed under foot. Sullen angry faces were -seen everywhere, sounds of wailing and woe were heard -continually in every house, for the women took it even -harder than the men. Farmers and carriers of food and -fuel refused to bring their produce to market, for guards -stood at the gates, and cut off with their swords every -top-knot as it came through. Men were stationed also in -all the principal streets, cutting off every top-knot that -passed, and all public officials and soldiers were at once -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">170</span> -shaved. There was a voice heard, lamentation and -mourning and great weeping.</p> - -<p>It was a cruel blow at personal liberty, which Anglo-Saxons -would die rather than suffer, and which the helplessness -of this weak nation made the more pitiful and inexcusable. -It was struck shrewdly too, at one of the -specially distinguishing marks of Koreans, setting them -apart from Japanese and Chinese, designed, we could not -help thinking, as one of the first and important parts of a -scheme to blot out Korea’s national identity, and merge -her into one with Japan; but if this was the intention, -never was anything more mistakenly planned. It was -hotly resented to the very heart of the country, and added -still deeper dye and bitter flavor to the long-nourished -hatred Koreans felt for their ancient conqueror and foe. -As for us (some of us), we put ourselves in the Korean’s -place, recalled our national experience and harbored numbers -of Koreans on our place, protecting them from the -knife as long as possible. The cup of iniquity was nearly -full. The queen, looked upon as the mother of her people, -had been murdered, the king virtually imprisoned, the -country ruled by the dictum of conspirators and tools of -her conquerors, and now this last blow at every family in -the nation was too much. A deep spirit of anger and revolt -stirred the whole country; yet they had no leaders, -no arms, no organization and knew not what to do, a -poor down-trodden simple folk, who knew not on whom -to lean for help, and who had not learned to cry to him -who hears, defends and takes up the cause of the poor -and needy.</p> - -<p>Bands of Tonghaks again ranged the country, insurrections -broke out in various localities, some of the shaved -magistrates who went to the country were sent back by -the mobs, who refused to receive them as rulers, some -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">171</span> -were actually killed, and the magistracies destroyed, the -soldiers were powerless to subdue the disturbances, and -things seemed to be growing from bad to worse. -Marines were ordered to the legations from Chemulpo -(where there were many foreign gunboats and war -vessels), and no one knew what next to expect, when suddenly -an entire change in the whole situation took place.</p> - -<p>But now I must return for a while to other matters. In -the district of Koksan, in northern Whang Hai Do (Yellow -Sea Province), about two hundred miles north from -Seoul, a very interesting Christian work had started, as -so much of our work has, through God’s own direct dealings -with the people, by his word and Spirit. A man from -that place having come up to Seoul on business, and receiving -some small kindness from Mr. Underwood, which -he desired to acknowledge, felt that he could do nothing -more delicately complimentary and grateful than to make -a show of interest in his “doctrine,” and so bought four -gospels in Chinese, which he took home in his pack, and -forthwith shelved unread. Here they remained for -months, I am not sure how long.</p> - -<p>Finally one day, a friend noticed them, took them down, -all grimy with dust, and asked what they were and whence -they came. The owner replied that he had never read -them, but that they were books containing a new doctrine -taught by foreigners in Seoul. Dr. Cho’s curiosity was -aroused, he borrowed, took them home and fell to reading -with more and more avidity the further he proceeded. I -would not give up the priceless heritage of Christian ancestry, -the struggles, prayers and victories of godly forefathers, -and all that Christian training from one generation -to another for centuries means, but yet I would give -much to have been able once to read the four gospels as -that heathen read them, with no preconceived opinions, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">172</span> -no discolorations of red, green or even blue theological -glasses, no criticisms or commentaries of “Worldly Wisemen,” -or bigoted fanatics, reading their own ideas between -the lines, but with an absolutely unbiased mind so as to be -able to receive that wonderful revelation as a sweet glad -surprise; sentence after sentence, truth after truth blooming -into sudden glory, where the darkness of ignorance -had reigned.</p> - -<p>One almost envies that heathen his compensations. He -received the word with joy, wondered and adored. Here -was a man well read in the philosophical teachings, the -empty husks of Confucianism and Buddhism, but who had -never heard one word from any Christian teacher. Here -was a mind free from prejudice, and this was the result of -contact with God’s Word. He believed and accepted it for -God’s truth with all his heart, and gave himself unreservedly -to Christ, turning completely away from his old -superstitions and systems of philosophy. Quickly the -good news spread, not more from his glad telling of his -new-found joy than from the wonderful change in the -man himself.</p> - -<p>Others also soon believed, and an appeal was sent to -Seoul for some one to come and teach them more, lest -something should remain misunderstood, or unfulfilled of -their dear Lord’s commands. But in Seoul, and elsewhere, -workers were few, hands were reaching out from -all directions for help, the Macedonian cry was ringing -pathetically from many quarters, the harvest great, the -laborers few. The Bible must be translated, work already -started must be cared for and watched, in a word, there -was no one who could go. Again and again came that -call, and at last a letter which brought tears to our eyes. -“Why,” said they, “will no one come to help us, is no one -willing to teach us, have we so far sunk in sin that God -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">173</span> -will not allow us to have salvation?” Mr. Underwood -started almost at once, with Dr. Avison, about one month -after the promulgation of the laws for cutting the top-knots. -The excitement had somewhat abated in the city, -and the call from Koksan admitted of no delay. Making -short stops along the road for medical and evangelistic -work, going on foot, they reached Koksan about three -weeks after leaving Seoul.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="RUSSIAN_LEGATION_HOUSE" src="images/p172a.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">RUSSIAN LEGATION HOUSE. <a href="#Page_174">PAGE 174</a></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="INDEPENDENCE_ARCH" src="images/p172b.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">INDEPENDENCE ARCH. PAGE <a href="#Page_38">38</a></p></div> - -<p>They found a little company of earnest simple-hearted -believers, who had thrown away their idols, ceased their -ancestor worship, and were in all things, as far as they -knew, obeying the Lord. But “the washing rite,” as baptism -was translated, puzzled them. “<i>He that believeth -and is baptized shall be saved.</i>” What then was this? -They pondered and studied. God showed them it was in -some way a sign of washing from sin, and when after long -waiting, no teacher came, they agreed that each going to -his own home should wash himself in the name of the -Father, the Son and the Holy Ghost, praying for himself -and his brethren, that if in anything they had sinned in -this rite, God would forgive them. And so the missionaries -found them, and though for the sake of due order -they were baptized in the prescribed way, it was felt that -in God’s sight it had already been done.</p> - -<p>When for the first time they all sat down to commemorate -the Lord’s death in the service of bread and -wine, there was not a dry eye in the room. Tears -streamed from the face of Dr. Cho, and later one of his -neighbors said, when speaking in an experience meeting, -“Old Cho, known as ‘hard-hearted Cho,’ who as a boy -never uttered a cry when his father flogged him, who -never wept when he laid his aged mother in the grave, -whose eyes never moistened when his beloved wife died, -or when he buried his eldest son, on whose cheek man -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">174</span> -never saw a tear, Cho weeps. What miracle has brought -tears to his eyes?”</p> - -<p>While Dr. Avison and Mr. Underwood were in Koksan, -wondering and worshiping over the proofs of how God -blesses his word, applied to simple hearts, startling things -were taking place in Seoul. The king, who had now been -four months helpless in the hands of his enemies, suddenly -made good his escape to the Russian legation!</p> - -<p>The story, as we heard it from one near the king, was -as follows: Wearied and sick at heart of affairs of state, -his majesty retired to the women’s apartments, where he -spent his entire time, escaping thus to some extent the detestable -espionage of his enemies, who delegated two -elderly women, one the wife of the Tai Won Kun, and another, -whose duty it was to watch his majesty in turn, one -by day, the other by night. Their vigilance was, however, -in some way sufficiently eluded, so that a plan for -the royal prisoner’s escape was arranged with two of the -palace women, which was successfully carried out as -follows:</p> - -<p>On a certain birthday festival, both of the duennas who, -as was said, took turns, watching and sleeping, were invited -to celebrate with the king, and to partake of a great -feast, with plenty of wine and prolonged amusements. -All night the king’s watchers revelled, both falling into a -heavy sleep before dawn. This is the story, but I like to -think that as one of the women was probably the king’s -mother, her heart was tender toward her unhappy son, and -that she purposely relaxed her watch. It would gild a -little the long dark tale of all that preceded to find a -touch of sweet human affection right here. At any rate, -when every one in the palace was off guard, supposing the -king and crown prince asleep, they entered a couple of -women’s chairs which were waiting. The bearers of these -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">175</span> -chairs had been specially selected and paid with a view to -their carrying two, and thought nothing of it, as the -palace women often went out to their homes in this way. -So in each chair a woman sat in front of its royal occupant, -screening him from view should any one glance in. -The sentinels at the gate had been provided with hot refreshments -and plenty of strong drink, and were so fully -occupied that the chairs with their valuable burden passed -out unnoticed and unhindered. They were expected at the -Russian legation, where one hundred and sixty marines -from the port had just been called up, and there they -speedily made their way, arriving at about seven or eight -in the morning of February 11, 1896.</p> - -<p>This meant the downfall of the usurpers. With the -king’s person went all their claim to authority and power, -and it also meant that Japanese influence in Korean affairs -was over for a time, and that the country had been almost -thrown into the arms of Russia, by the short-sighted -policy of the minister, who had desired to “establish the -prestige of Japan.”</p> - -<p>As our compound was very close to the Russian legation, -and fronting on the same street, we were soon aware -that something very unusual had occurred. The whole -road, as far as the eye could reach, was filled with a surging -mob of soldiers, commoners, and the chairs and retainers -of the nobility. Guards and sentinels were -stationed every few paces along our street, and there was -a loud and almost terrifying babel of shouting voices, in -the din and confusion of which it was impossible to distinguish -anything. I sent at once for one or two of Mr. -Underwood’s writers and literary helpers, who told me -that the king had arrived a short while before at the Russian -legation, and had assumed the reins of government, -and that the army, officials and people were rallying -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">176</span> -around him, each anxious to precede the other in protestations -of loyalty and devotion.</p> - -<p>Then I thought rather busily for a few seconds. My -first reflection of course was, “How will this affect the absent -missionaries?” How would it affect Japanese (now -distrusted) and through them all foreigners in the interior? -Would the people in the country not be likely to -wreak the vessels of their wrath upon them, and would -they discriminate between them and others wearing -similar clothing? I feared not, and that the probabilities -were that Dr. Avison and Mr. Underwood might be in -considerable danger, as soon as the news of the king’s -escape, and the fall of the pro-Japanese party became -known. Word must then be sent, and soon, in order if -possible to reach them before the news reached the natives. -I sent a letter to our very kind friend, the Russian -minister, with a message to his majesty, inquiring -whether anything could be done for the protection and -safe return of the two missionaries. I knew an immediate -reply could hardly be expected, such was the rush of -business, and the number of visitors and claimants on -their time, so, to leave no means untried, I called up one -of the copyists, informed him of the necessity for speed, -and had the satisfaction of seeing him start that very hour -with a letter and warning message to my husband. A -short time after, fearing that something might occur to -detain one messenger, I sent another by a different road. -The second man was stopped by Tonghaks, looking for -foreigners, who for some reason suspected him, searched -him, ripped open his clothes, where they found my letter -(which of course they could not read), and forced him -to go back to Seoul.</p> - -<p>On the day following that on which my messengers had -started, a kind letter from the Russian legation came, saying -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">177</span> -that the king would at once send a guard to Koksan -to bring back the two Americans, and at about the same -time, a wealthy nobleman in Songdo, a friend of both, -and brother-in-law of General Yun, knowing where they -were, and fearing for them, also sent a special posse of -men to see them safely home.</p> - -<p>Having done all that I could, the most difficult of all -tasks, that of waiting, remained, but I remembered that I -had a sister in the same situation, only that she probably -was not quite as well informed as myself of the exact state -of affairs, and did not know that any word had been sent -to our husbands. The street running in front of our house -was packed with excited people, but I decided to make my -way through them in my chair and go down to Mrs. Avison, -where she was living at a long distance from the rest -of us, and try to set her mind at rest by telling her what -measures had been taken for the safety of the absentees, -and of what was happening at our end of the town. I -soon passed the crowd in our neighborhood, who were in -no way concerned with me, and in a little while reached -the great street, which runs toward the palace, and crosses -that on which the hospital and Dr. Avison’s home stood.</p> - -<p>As we reached the corner, I saw a great mob of the -roughest and wildest looking men, with flushed faces and -dishevelled hair. They came tearing towards us shouting -to each other, “The Japanese soldiers are coming, they -are firing. Run, run, run!” I did not fancy the company -of these gentlemen any more than their looks, nor did I -care to be a target for Japanese troops, who were supposed -to be chasing them. So I also adjured my chair -coolies with some emphasis to “run.” The whole mob -came sweeping round the corner, into the thoroughfare -on which we were. It was not a dignified or desirable -situation, a Presbyterian missionary in the midst of a wild -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">178</span> -scramble, and with a panic-stricken crowd of roughs -escaping for dear life, from the avengers of justice, but -there was no help for it. My coolies needed no urging, -they were as anxious to get away as any of us, but they -certainly deserved great credit, that under the circumstances -they did not leave me to my fate, and try to save -only themselves. A few moments running brought us to -the hospital gates, where we turned in hastily, and were -safe. It was not cold, and yet I found myself shivering -like an aspen. Strange!</p> - -<p>Mrs. Avison and I were soon laughing, however, over -my late escapade, and as soon as my errand was finished I -hurried home another way, none too soon, for the streets -were full of angry-looking men, some of whom scowled at -me, and muttered, “foreigner.” That night we learned -that two of the pro-Japanese cabinet had been killed on the -street and torn to pieces by the mob; that mob which, -having finished its awful work, accompanied me down the -street that afternoon. A young Japanese was also stoned -to death on the street that day. In a few days Dr. Avison -and Mr. Underwood were with us quite safe. My faithful -and fleet-footed messenger had taken a short cut, and -reached Koksan in an amazingly short time.</p> - -<p>The news filled our husbands with anxiety for us, not -knowing how far mob violence might go, and they made -the distance of near two hundred miles in sixty hours, -walking nearly all the way (the pack-ponies go much too -slow), sleeping only an hour or so at night, and eating as -they walked. They missed both the king’s guard and the -posse from Songdo, which had taken a different road, but -met many poor frightened natives along the road, who -knew not where to turn or to whom to look for protection, -with Tonghaks on the one hand and pro-Japanese on the -other. Later we heard of many sad tales of Japanese citizens, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">179</span> -overtaken in the country, who were very summarily -dealt with by the exasperated people. Japanese troops -were sent by their minister to bring back all who could be -found, and large sums were demanded from the Korean -government in payment for the lives thus sacrificed. To -which demand, it has been suggested, the reply might have -been made, “Who is to indemnify Korea for the life of her -queen?”</p> - -<p>Thus ended for a time the unhappy reign of the -Japanese, which, after their victories over the Chinese, had -seemed to begin so auspiciously, and which, had they been -contented with a temperate and conciliating policy, would -probably have grown stronger and stronger.</p> - -<p>The king remained for a year at the Russian legation, -where he was treated with the truest courtesy, for instead -of being in any way coerced or influenced for the benefit -of Russian interests, he was allowed the most perfect -liberty and interfered with in no particular. To such an -extent did the true gentleman who acted as the king’s host -carry his scruples, that he refused to advise his majesty in -any way even when requested to do so. On the occasion -of the king’s birthday, which came in September, it occurred -to my husband that it would be a good opportunity -to give the Christians a chance to express their loyalty, -and at the same time advertise Christianity more widely -than ever before at one time. The idea did not occur until -a day or two before the time when we were reminded that -the royal birthday was close at hand.</p> - -<p>The time was short, but permission was obtained to use -a large government building near the Independence Arch, -which would hold over one thousand people, and advertised -widely that a meeting of prayer and praise would be -held there by the Christians to celebrate the king’s birthday. -A platform was erected, the building draped with -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">180</span> -flags, and speakers obtained, among whom were members -of the cabinet, several gifted Koreans, and foreign missionaries.</p> - -<p>He sat up all night preparing tracts, of which thousands -were printed at the M. E. Mission Press for that special -occasion, and also a hymn, to be set to the tune “America.”</p> - -<h3>I.</h3> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">For my dear country’s weal,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">O God to Thee I pray,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Graciously hear.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Without Thy mighty aid<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Our land will low be laid.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Strengthen Thou this dear land,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Most gracious Lord.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<h3>II.</h3> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Long may our great king live,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">This is our prayer to-day<br /></span> -<span class="i0">With one accord.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">His precious body guard,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Keep it from every ill.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Heavenly Lord and King,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Grant him Thy grace.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<h3>III.</h3> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">By Thy almighty power,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Our royal emperor<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Has been enthroned.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Thy Holy Spirit grant<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Our nation never fail.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Long live our emperor,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Upheld by Thee.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<h3>IV.</h3> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">For this Thy gracious gift,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Our independence, Lord,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Bless we thy name.<br /></span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">181</span> -<span class="i0">This never ceasing be,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">While as a people we,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Nobles and commons all,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">United pray.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<h3>V.</h3> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">To Thee, the only Lord,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Maker and King Divine,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">We offer praise.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">When all shall worship Thee,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Happy our land shall be,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Powerful, rich and free,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Beneath Thy smile.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Early in the day Christian men and boys were distributing -copies of the tract and hymns throughout the whole -city, and long before the hour of meeting men of all -classes began flocking toward that vicinity, and when the -speakers and missionaries arrived it was almost impossible -to obtain access. The building was soon packed with a -solid mass of standing people, and all the wide exits were -thronged, the steps and the immediate vicinity.</p> - -<p>The services were opened with prayer, addresses -(mainly religious) were made, hymns were sung, and -finally were closed by the Lord’s prayer, repeated in concert. -It was thrilling to hear those words repeated reverently -by so large a number of people.</p> - -<p>I will give an interlinear translation of the prayer, so -that readers may know just what are the words used by -Korean Christians: -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">182</span></p> - -<div class="interlinear"> -<ol class="sentence"> - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">Hanalau</li> - <li class="trgt">Our</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">Kaysin</li> - <li class="trgt">Father,</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">oori abbachi-sin jah yeh,</li> - <li class="trgt">who art in heaven,</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">Ihrahme keruk</li> - <li class="trgt">hallowed</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">hahsime</li> - <li class="trgt">be</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">natanah op</li> - <li class="trgt">Thy</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">se myh,</li> - <li class="trgt">name.</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">narahhe im haopse myh,</li> - <li class="trgt">Thy kingdom come.</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">tutse</li> - <li class="trgt">Thy</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">Hanalaya-saw</li> - <li class="trgt">will be done</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">chirum</li> - <li class="trgt">on</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">dahaysoh deh iroyohgeita,</li> - <li class="trgt">earth as it is in heaven.</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">onal nal</li> - <li class="trgt">Give</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">oori ai</li> - <li class="trgt">us</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">gay il</li> - <li class="trgt">this</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">young hal</li> - <li class="trgt">day</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">yang sike</li> - <li class="trgt">our</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src"> ul, choo</li> - <li class="trgt">daily</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">apsego,</li> - <li class="trgt">bread.</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">oori ga</li> - <li class="trgt">And</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">oorigay teuk</li> - <li class="trgt">forgive</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">chay han</li> - <li class="trgt">us</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">charal, sah</li> - <li class="trgt">our</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">hayah</li> - <li class="trgt">debts</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">choonan kot</li> - <li class="trgt">as</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">katchi, oori</li> - <li class="trgt">we</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">chayral,</li> - <li class="trgt">forgive</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">sah hayah</li> - <li class="trgt">our</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">chu up</li> - <li class="trgt">debtors,</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">se myh.</li> - <li class="trgt">and</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">Oori ga</li> - <li class="trgt">lead</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">seeheumay</li> - <li class="trgt">us</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">teul jee</li> - <li class="trgt">not</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">mal kay hah</li> - <li class="trgt">into</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">up seego,</li> - <li class="trgt">temptation,</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">tahman, ooriral,</li> - <li class="trgt">but</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">heung ak ay</li> - <li class="trgt">deliver</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">saw, ku</li> - <li class="trgt">us</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">ha ap soh</li> - <li class="trgt">from</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">soh.</li> - <li class="trgt">evil,</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">Tai kay,</li> - <li class="trgt">for</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">nara wha,</li> - <li class="trgt">Thine</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">quansay</li> - <li class="trgt">is the</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src"> wha, eing</li> - <li class="trgt">kingdom,</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">guanqhi, choo</li> - <li class="trgt">and the power,</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">kay, eng wani it</li> - <li class="trgt">and the glory,</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">sa-ap-nay-ita</li> - <li class="trgt">for ever.</li> - </ol> - </li> - - <li> - <ol class="word"> - <li class="src">Amen.</li> - <li class="trgt">Amen.</li> - </ol> - </li> -</ol> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">183</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>A Korean Christian Starts Work in Haing Ju—Changed Lives -of Believers—A Reformed Saloon-keeper—The Conversion -of a Sorceress—Best of Friends—A Pleasant Night on the -Water—Evidence of Christian Living—Our Visit in Sorai—A -Korean Woman’s Work—How a Kang Acts at Times—Applicants -for Baptism—Two Tonghaks—In a Strait betwixt -Two—Midnight Alarms—Miss Jacobson’s Death.</p></blockquote> - -<p>In the late fall of the same year Mr. Underwood and I -started again on a trip to the interior, the first we had -made together since our wedding journey, but now we -were accompanied by our child, six years old, and a native -woman, who acted as cook, nurse and general assistant. -She rode in a native “<i>pokyo</i>” or chair with the child, I in -another, while Mr. Underwood walked or rode his bicycle, -as opportunity permitted. Our first destination was -Haing Ju, a dirty little fishing village on the river, about -ten miles from the capital. Work had started here just -after the cholera in the fall of 1895 through the teaching -of a native named Shin Wha Suni, a poor fellow who had, -according to his own confession, been hanging around us -for some time, pretending to be interested in Christianity, -in the hope of getting some lucrative employment in connection -with church work.</p> - -<p>After the cholera hospital was opened, he was there on -several occasions, and was much surprised to find that foreign -women would spend whole nights nursing sick Korean -coolies. When he chanced to see one weeping over a -poor man, whom all her efforts had failed to save, he -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">184</span> -went away astonished and impressed with the idea that -“there is something in that religion that makes them love -us like that, something that forgets self, something that I -have never dreamed of before, something mysterious, -glorious, oh, that it were mine!”</p> - -<p>He hungered and God fed him. He sought and found -the Saviour, and when he had found him, he set forth -at once to tell the good news to others. Taking a jikay, -the frame which Koreans wear on their backs to facilitate -the carrying of heavy loads, and which all native carriers -use, he started forth to the country to earn his living in -this humble way while <i>chandohaoing</i> or “passing on the -Word.” He went as far as Haing Ju, and there on the -sand of the river bank he talked to scoffing people all day.</p> - -<p>At night, when it was dark, one of the men who had -seemed to treat his message lightly, came and asked him -to come to his house and talk the matter over at more -length. He went, and soon another believer was gained. -“Oh, it was good, the taste of a soul saved,” said the new -preacher. “Now it seemed to me I could never be satisfied -with anything else; could never rest until I had more.” -The man who had been converted offered the use of his -house as a preaching place. The men gathered in one -room, the women in another, and Shin read the gospels -and the tracts and taught them the catechism and hymns. -The number of Christians grew from week to week, and -the little meeting place became too small and had to be enlarged. -The whole tone of the village gradually changed, -and from being known as one of the hardest and most disreputable -places on the river, it now became a model of -decency and respectability.</p> - -<p>Testimony to this effect was offered by some farmers, -who appeared one day in my husband’s study and asked -him if he had anything to do with the Christians in Haing -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">185</span> -Ju. He replied in the affirmative, half afraid the people -had come with some charge against them. “Well,” the -strangers said, “we should like to buy the books which -teach the doctrine they are practicing there, we want to -learn that doctrine in our village too.”</p> - -<p>Their village, Sam Oui, was not quite three miles away, -and in former times they had been much troubled by the -brawls and bad character of Haing Ju. Their vegetables -had been stolen from the fields, their fruit and chestnuts -from the trees, “but now,” said they, “the people not only -do not climb the trees for the nuts, but the boys leave -those on the ground untouched.”</p> - -<p>Here was power in a faith which kept hungry boys -from carrying off even nuts lying temptingly in reach. -This was something the like of which they had never seen -or heard; they had been taught not to steal, especially if -likely to be discovered, but a power that could prevent -men and boys from wishing to steal was miraculous. One -of the saloon-keepers of Haing Ju, a man whose only -source of livelihood was in this trade, became thoroughly -converted, and at once realized that he could no longer -sell drink to his neighbors, nor could he conscientiously -dispose of his stock in trade at wholesale to other dealers, -so he emptied it all on the street. He was able to obtain -a little work now and then, but he was not strong enough -for coolie labor. He had no trade and no farm, and at -times his need was great, and often the family were on the -verge of starvation, but the man’s faith never failed, he -never gave up his hold on God. Finally sickness attacked -him, he became very lame, and hearing of the hospital in -Seoul, managed to be conveyed thither, and while there we -heard his story, and as I needed just then a caretaker for -my dispensary, we engaged him and his wife to live on -the place and do the light work necessary. His leg did -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">186</span> -not improve much at the hospital, nor did the doctor -give him much hope, but this, too, he made a subject of -prayer and faith, and erelong rejoiced in a complete recovery.</p> - -<p>This is the character of the faith of these hardy fishermen -and farmers on the river. As we approached the -village we were astonished to hear the strains of a Christian -hymn, “Happy day, happy day, when Jesus washed -my sins away.” It was a band of little boys whom Shin -had been training, and who had come out to meet us. We -spent two or three days in this place, women and men -crowding into the little building to every meeting. Mr. -Underwood baptized thirty-eight people, a young couple -were married, one hundred and thirteen catechumens were -received, and some babies baptized.</p> - -<p>Speaking of babies reminds me of a sad little incident -which occurred while I was holding the first meeting there -with the women. Hoping to win their interest, knowing -how many little dead babies are carried away from Korean -homes, I told them of the Saviour’s love for little ones, -that he held them in his arms and caressed them when on -earth, and had said that the spirits of these little ones do -always behold the face of the Father; so that would they -only believe and give their hearts to him, they should see -their little ones again in heaven.</p> - -<p>A great sob broke from one of the women who commenced -passionately weeping. As soon as she could -speak, she told me, her voice broken with violent emotion, -that she had been a sorceress, and in a moment of frenzy -had dashed her only child, a baby, to the floor and killed -it. She, a mother, had killed her child, and could she ever -be happy again, could God forgive such as she, could she -ever be permitted to see her murdered child again? She -feared she was too wicked. All of us wept with her, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">187</span> -she was told of the great mercy and pardoning love of -God, and found peace in Christ.</p> - -<p>Mr. Underwood also visited Sam Oui, the village which -had learned of Christ through the example of Haing Ju, -and baptized a handful of Christians there, enrolling a -number of catechumens. When people do not seem quite -ripe for baptism, yet have put away idolatry, keeping the -Sabbath, putting away concubines, and living a life of apparent -conformity with the ten commandments, they are -enrolled in this class of catechumens. While I was engaged -during the morning with the women, the “amah” -was charged to take care of our little boy, but when the -service was over, as he was nowhere to be seen, we started -out to find him. As we walked down the lane we saw -coming toward us a row of some seven or eight boys of his -age (the dirtiest in the town, I am sure), he in the center, -an arm around one on either side, all chatting and laughing -together in the merriest mood possible. How could -we help laughing, how help being half pleased, even while -horrified at what such contact might portend, how many -varieties of microbes, not to mention other things.</p> - -<p>From Haing Ju we took a Korean junk down the river -to Pai Chun. We went on board at night, and as it was -bitterly cold, we were told we must go down under the -deck, as there was absolutely no sheltered place above -where we could sleep. The hole to which we were relegated -was not attractive. There were odors of fish ages -old, the space was not high enough even to sit upright in, -and barely wide enough for Mr. Underwood, our child, -our “amah” and myself to lie packed side by side (no -turning or moving about) in the stern.</p> - -<p>A lantern glimmered at the other end, it looked very far. -There was water there, and perhaps rats, and certainly -great water beetles and cockroaches, and sometimes, hours -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">188</span> -and hours after we had been packed in that gruesome -place, a boatman came and crawled over us, and dipped -out buckets of water. Men were tramping back and forth -over our heads all night. I felt sure that some of them -would come through, and there seemed to be enough -racket to indicate a storm at sea, a collision or a fire—at -times I was almost convinced it was all three. If it had -been, we certainly could never have made our escape from -the trap in which we were wedged like sardines. However, -as we were merely sailing down a broad, but not very -deep river, and could easily have neared the shore before -sinking in most circumstances, things were not so bad -as they seemed, and next morning when we emerged into -the bright sunlight what had been a night fraught with -awful probabilities was now simply an amusing episode.</p> - -<p>All day Sunday we sat on the deck in the sun, singing -and enjoying the brilliant atmosphere. From Pai Chun we -proceeded on foot or in chairs to Hai Ju, and thence to -Sorai, where a theological leader’s class was waiting for -Mr. Underwood. Everywhere the warm-hearted welcome -which awaited us was a delightful surprise to me. People, -even women and children, came out miles to meet us, and -followed us in crowds when we left, as if they could not -bear to let us go.</p> - -<p>There were only a few beginnings of work in Hai Ju -at that time. It is the capital of the province and rather -a demoralized town, even in a heathen country, full of -hangers-on of government officials, people accustomed -to getting a living out of the people through fraud, bribery, -oppression, “<i>squeezing</i>” and all sorts of political -dirty work and corruption; evil men and still more evil -women spreading the cancerous disease through the little -town, until every one appears to be steeped in “the lust of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">189</span> -the flesh, the lust of the eyes, and the pride of life,” and -worshipers of the god of this world.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="KOREAN_WOMEN_AT_WORK" src="images/p188.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">KOREAN WOMEN AT WORK. <a href="#Page_191">PAGE 191</a></p></div> - -<p>As a special day had been set for the beginning of the -class in Sorai, and people were coming from all directions -to meet us there, we hastened on to be in time. -Walking along the main road thither, Mr. Underwood -overtook a young farmer, with whom he opened conversation -in a friendly way, and asked if he had heard of the -Jesus religion. “<i>Yayso Kyo?</i>” “Oh, yes,” was the reply, -“I have heard much of it, many people in this province do -that doctrine, it is very good.” “Do you believe also?” -said my husband. “Oh, no, I cannot be a believer,” replied -the man. “These Christians spend their time and -money doing good to others, I must do for myself, I cannot -afford to practise this doctrine.” This was unintentional -witness borne to the fair fruit of Christianity in the -man’s believing friends and neighbors. A little further -on, as my chair was set down to rest the coolies, an old -woman ran out of a neighboring shanty to <i>kugung</i> the -foreigner. I told her who I was and why I had come, -and asked if she knew of this doctrine. “Oh, yes, it was -good, very good.” “Then why do you not believe?” -“Oh, I sell liquor, that is my business. I cannot do that -and be a Christian.” Another involuntary testimony to -the lives of the Christians of Whang Hai, and to the -sincerity of those who had been taught that the way -must be made straight and clean for the coming of the -Lord.</p> - -<p>When we arrived at Sorai I found the Christian women -all gathered to meet me in the house of one whom I had -known before in Seoul. They offered refreshments of -their best, persimmons, pears, chestnuts and eggs, and expressed -their pleasure over our coming in the most cordial -and heart-warming way. Most of them I had never -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">190</span> -seen before, but we seemed to love each other at first sight, -for the bond in Christ is a very strong one.</p> - -<p>Mr. Kim Yun O, the wealthy man of the village, one -who had been a great sinner but was now one of the -strongest and most earnest of the leaders, had invited us to -occupy his new sarang or guest room. It was quite a -commodious sunny room, and we were pleased to find it -was quite new, so we need fear few of our little enemies.</p> - -<p>While Mr. Underwood was holding his classes with the -men in the church all day, patients of all kinds came to -me in the mornings for several hours. Then I taught the -girls and boys how to sing the hymns, for they had never -known what it means to sing, and though they made a joyful -noise to the Lord, it was not joyful to the fleshly ear -at all, but a most awful combination of discords, flats and -sharps, mixed up in the most hopeless confusion, whole -bunches of keys on one string, moanings, groanings, -sounds of woe as if all the contents of the pit had come -forth before the time, or all the evil spirits exorcised from -the village had returned to spoil their praise.</p> - -<p>The young people were the most hopeful to begin with, -and were soon doing remarkably well. Every afternoon -we women had a Bible class together. Most of those who -came were baptized Christians or catechumens, though -some unbelievers were always present. About twenty-five -crowded into Mr. Kim’s anpang each day. It is delightful -to be allowed to teach such women, so hungry for truth, -so eager to learn, so full of humble loving interest in every -word, with such a spirit of childlike faith.</p> - -<p>Mrs. Kim, in whose house we were staying, was a busy -woman, and her life was not an easy one. She was small -and frail, with two children, her husband and old mother -to work for, with one servant to help. The preparation of -food for her own family and many Korean guests (for a -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">191</span> -Korean gentleman’s guest house is always well filled at -meal time) was in itself no light matter. The rice comes -in very rough, only partly husked, and must be pounded a -long while in a great wooden vessel, with a heavy club, -larger at either end, which is almost all that a woman can -lift (a fine exercise for athletic women’s clubs). Water -is usually brought in on the head from quite a distance, -brass bowls and spoons kept bright, garments must be -washed and smoothed, with what pains I have already described, -animals cared for, fires made.</p> - -<p>But the country women work in the fields, too, helping -to sow the cotton, tobacco, rice and barley. When the cotton -is ripe they pick and prepare it, and only after much -toil is it ready for use. Then they weave their own cloth -and make up their own garments, in the dark little rooms -in which the women live and work. They prepare and dry -certain vegetables for winter’s use, and with much labor, -themselves press out the castor oil which they use in their -tiny lamps. In the fall they make their kimchi for the -whole year.</p> - -<p>Timely hints dropped now and then, and the example -of a Christian husband’s care for his wife, have done -wonders among the native Christian homes, and much -lightened the hard lot of the women. Of course we did -our own cooking in all these little villages, our personal -entertainment adding nothing to the work of the poor -house wife. The people at Sorai are extremely generous -and were constantly bringing us presents of chickens, -eggs, persimmons, etc. We were much embarrassed by all -this bounty, for we knew the people were poor and that -such gifts cost a large sacrifice on their part.</p> - -<p>When one’s wages are not more than ten cents a day a -chicken means quite a good deal of money. Yet we could -not refuse their offerings, for when we tried to do so they -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">192</span> -felt so hurt we found it was impossible. The people already -at that time were paying the running expenses of a -Christian day school, which they had endowed, by setting -apart the income from certain fields for this purpose, and -if the crop was poor and the income insufficient, they -made it up to the required amount.</p> - -<p>While here in Sorai we had a new and rather unpleasant -experience with the working of the Korean <i>kang</i>, which -we thought we knew well. In the midst of winter the -wind suddenly turned in the wrong direction for our fires. -The fire being built at one side of the house and the chimney -opening at the other, we made the very chilling discovery, -that when the wind blows into the smoke vent a -fire cannot be coaxed to light. Our room was bitterly -cold, and it is surprising how a floor, which can become -intolerably hot, can also under the proper circumstances -become so cold and damp. I was obliged to wrap my -rheumatic frame in furs and rugs, while they brought in a -great bowl or wharrow full of glowing charcoal fire, with -which I was comparatively unacquainted. However, that -night the room began dancing about in the giddiest kind -of way, all grew dark—and my husband spent several -hours with me in the cold night air outside our room, in -the effort to ward off successive fainting attacks. When -our child, too, complained of headache and giddiness, we -no longer questioned the cause, and henceforth preferred -pure cold air to carbon dioxide.</p> - -<p>It was interesting in the cold, sleety, snowy weather to -see how the Christians managed to attend church, even -from long distances. The women would fold up their -clean skirts and put them with their shoes and stockings -on their heads, roll up their pajies or divided skirts quite -high out of the reach of wet, and with a thin cotton apron, -or no outer wrap at all over their heads and shoulders, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">193</span> -trudge miles through snow and mud, facing a cutting -wind. Quite a number of people were examined for baptism -while we were there. One old woman, whose case -seemed rather doubtful on account of her ignorance, was -asked what was her dearest wish. “That I may be with -Jesus always” was the reply. “And how do you know you -will always be with him?” “Because I am holding close -to him now, and will hold close all the way.” She had -at least learned that Jesus supplies the soul’s whole need, -that to be in his felt presence is heaven, and that to hold -and be held by him is the only way to reach and be kept -there. Surely she had the end and aim of all theology in -a nutshell.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="SCHOOL_BOYS" src="images/p192a.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">SCHOOL BOYS.</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="GIRLS_SEWING_AND_WRITING_WITH_NATIVE_TEACHER" src="images/p192b.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">GIRLS SEWING AND WRITING WITH NATIVE TEACHER. <a href="#Page_191">PAGE 191</a></p></div> - -<p>I will copy a few notes from my diary on the testimony -given by some of the people who applied for baptism at -this time.</p> - -<p>No. 15, Mrs. Kim: Said her relatives and friends had -all been trying to induce her to believe, but her heart had -grown harder and harder, and she had determined she -would not be a Christian; but suddenly one night she saw -herself with awful clearness, a great sinner, had that moment -yielded her heart, almost involuntarily (so irresistible -was the impulse), to Christ, and from that time had had -perfect peace and blessedness. Asked if she had spoken -on this subject to unbelievers, replied in affirmative. Has -now been trusting Christ a year and three months. This -woman has done since then much devoted voluntary service -for her Master.</p> - -<p>Another: At a time when those who wished for prayer -were asked to raise their hands, she says she raised hers, -and at that moment felt as it were a knife through her -heart. From that time she has felt that she belonged to -Christ, and since then her mind has been at peace. She -prays regularly three times a day, but is praying all the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">194</span> -time in her heart. While she is praying she never falls -into sin, but if through some inadvertence and lack of -prayer she sins, she asks God to pardon, knowing that he -will.</p> - -<p>Another, No. 5: “Why do you believe?” “Because -Jesus forgave me and died for me.” “How do you know -you are forgiven?” “Because the Bible says he will forgive -all that come to him.” Said he used to have a wicked -heart and worshiped devils, but now his heart and mind -were quite changed. Asked what repentance is, replied -that it “was mending one’s conduct and eating a new -mind.” Asked if he had told the good news to others, said -he had, but no one in his neighborhood yet believes. He -cannot read, and asked who Jesus is, says he is God’s only -son. Asked why he died for us, says he doesn’t know. -“Do your neighbors know that you do not sacrifice any -more?” “Yes.” “Do you know you cannot have a concubine?” -“Yes.” “Have you suffered anything for Christ?” -“They abuse me behind my back.” (He was the richest -and chief man of his district.) “If you have to suffer -severely what will you do?” “I will bear it, God will help -me.” He pays the expenses of well-taught Christians to go -to his home and preach to his neighbors. He comes a long -distance to Sorai to church and seems anxious about his -neighbors’ souls. He came to the class bringing his own -rice.</p> - -<p>No. 6: Says he trusts Jesus because he knows he has -forgiven his sins. Knows they are forgiven because his -heart is changed, his old covetousness is all gone, it is -now easy to do what Jesus commands. “Do you ever -forget Jesus?” “How could I forget him? How could I -forget my Lord?”</p> - -<p>Another: Says that since spring, when Christ came into -her heart, all has been at peace. Asked, “Who is Jesus?” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">195</span> -Replies, “God’s only son.” “What is he to you?” “We are -brethren since we have one Father.” “How is God your -Father?” “All believers are now his children.” “Are -your sins forgiven?” “Entirely forgiven.” “How do you -know it?” “My mind is now at peace. I am entirely -happy.” “Are you not sad since your husband died?” -“Since after death we shall all live again at God’s right -hand I feel no anxiety.” “What if difficulties should -arise?” “<i>I don’t know about the future, but God takes -care of me now, and I think he will continue to do so.</i> I’ll -tell Jesus and ask his help.” “Do you commit sins now?” -“On account of the flesh I cannot escape from sin, I cannot -say I do no sin.” Her father-in-law is not a believer, but -though she lives in his house she keeps the Sabbath and -attends worship regularly.</p> - -<p>No. 37 was a Tonghak, rebel and robber. Has believed -nearly two years. “Who is Jesus?” “He is God’s -son.” “What has he done for us?” “He died on the cross, -and through his precious blood my sins are forgiven.” -“Do you know this?” “I know it.” “How do you know -it?” “I cannot read the Bible, but as I was a criminal, and -Jesus has made me live, I know I am forgiven.” “Where -is Jesus?” “At God’s right hand.” “Anywhere else?” -“There is no place where he is not.” “What is Jesus doing -for us?” “I don’t know, I only know I am saved.” -“Have you told others about Jesus?” “I am always saying, -Here was I a criminal, and Jesus forgave me, and -saved me from punishment, and gave me peace of mind, -how can I help but believe.”</p> - -<p>This man comes ten miles to church in all weather. -Even when twenty miles away at work, he would come in -late Saturday night to be at church, stay all day, without -his food, and go back at night over a high mountain pass. -He was one of two rebels, who came to the leader and said -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">196</span> -they wanted to be followers of Christ and be baptized. -The leader said that if they were sincere Christians they -must make restitution by giving themselves up to justice. -One of the two then went to the Romanists, and is now -one of the most notorious of the gang of robbers and desperados -under the lead of Father Wilhelm. The other, -this applicant, gave himself up, was thrown into jail and -condemned to death. While in jail he astounded the -jailers and prisoners by continually singing hymns of joy -and praise. The prisoners declared he was mad, as no one -could sing like that in such a case. While he was in jail -the king escaped to the Russian legation, all prisoners -were set free and he was released. He has been a happy, -consistent Christian ever since.</p> - -<p>Another is a young man of nineteen, has only lately -begun to trust in Christ. His father is a believer, his -mother and wife are not. Baptism, he says, is a sign of -faith in Christ. He thinks it would never do not to be -baptized, but insists he is saved now. Says he knows and -feels it in his heart. He has destroyed all idols, and keeps -the Sabbath. He goes over the mountain three miles to -church and allows no laborers to work for him on Sunday, -though he is obliged to pay them for the day’s work as -though they had. He comes at his own expense to attend -the class.</p> - -<p>The above are given merely as a few specimens of the -kind of questions and replies commonly heard at these examinations. -Only those whose changed lives were witnessed -to by leading Christians who know them were baptized. -After a delightful stay with these simple-hearted -Christians, where the world and all its evils seemed far removed, -and God very near, we were obliged at the close of -the class to start back to the capital. Our three temporarily -hired coolies had forsaken us, disliking to wait so -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">197</span> -long (about three weeks) without work, and it was an impossibility -to replace them in that neighborhood, where -nobody ever rides in a chair.</p> - -<p>So we had to hire an ox-cart or <i>talgoogy</i>, the most -primitive of all possible wheeled conveyances, and in it, -with our loads tucked in with all our mattresses, quilts, -rugs and pillows, was placed our little treasure, our only -child, with the woman servant.</p> - -<p>With great difficulty a man was found who consented -to help my own servant carry my chair. But soon an unlooked-for -difficulty arose. I found the ox-cart had gone -by a different road from that on which I had come in my -chair, for the former could not cross the narrow bridges -(mere footpaths for one) over the rivers, but must take -the fords, far too long a distance for the chair coolies. -Nor could the cart take the narrow paths over precipitous -passes, which the chair must follow to shorten the road -for the carriers. I was assured that all would be well, the -helpers and Christians were with the child, and was forced -to submit to what could not now be helped. Mr. Underwood, -after seeing me well started, paced at a flying rate -across to the other road to see that all was well with the -boy, and then back again to the wife.</p> - -<p>At about five o’clock we reached a place where the -two roads meet, but no signs of the <i>talgoogy</i>. It was fast -growing dark, a mountain pass lay yet before us, the road -was wild and lonely, we wished our little one was with us. -At length we went on to the village just beyond the pass -and waited. Time passed, but no tidings of the cart and -its precious contents. Darkness fell, the cold was bitter. -Koreans were sent out with lanterns to light the way for -the belated, or render any needed help. Still no word. -At length Mr. Underwood himself, unable to wait longer, -went out to look for the party. And now with them both -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">198</span> -in the lonely mountain, and night upon us, I had double -need to trust in God. One always knows that all will be -well, will be for the best, but as one cannot see whether -that <i>best</i> means God’s rod or his staff, the heart will flutter -in dread of the pain. Just to wait without fear upon -him, takes a calm, strong soul, and a full measure of -grace.</p> - -<p>At last, thank God, they both came back quite unharmed, -only hungry and cold, but the thought of tigers, -leopards and robbers, that might have met them, only -made me realize more fully the mercy which brought them -safe to my arms.</p> - -<p>That night we slept in a small Korean inn quite like all -the rest, only a little smaller and dirtier than most, with -domestic animals and fowls of all sorts quartered round -us, the paper door of our room only separating between -them and us. Suddenly, about two or three in the morning, -we were startled out of our sleep by the most terrific -roaring, and the sounds of a general panic in the inn; the -excited shouts of men, women shrieking, and such a -chorus of barking, yelping, cackling, squealing as cannot -be described. But the awful roaring, and a stamping and -hustling distinguishable above all, made it seem probable -that one or more wild animals of some sort had invaded -the hostel. Mr. Underwood hastily extinguished our light, -which shining through our door, might attract notice, and -went out to discover the cause of the uproar. He soon -came back, saying that a couple of oxen, usually so meek -and tractable, had been fighting, had pulled themselves -loose from their stalls, and had now escaped, one chasing -the other out of the inn. They are enormous creatures, at -times like this as dangerous as any wild beast, and it was -remarkable that no one in the inn was seriously hurt, as -they could hardly have escaped being, had the oxen remained -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">199</span> -fighting in the cramped confines of that little -place.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="KOREAN_STREET" src="images/p198a.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">KOREAN STREET. <a href="#Page_18">PAGE 18</a></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="HORSES_IN_AN_INN_YARD" src="images/p198b.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">HORSES IN AN INN YARD. <a href="#Page_198">PAGE 198</a></p></div> - -<p>Nothing worthy of note occurred during the remainder -of our return trip, except one night, when camped in the -tiniest and most comfortless little room, we were again -wakened by an awful roaring. The sort of roar that every -mother hears with a quaking heart, and knows right well -what it imports. She knows it comes from a wild beast -in her child’s throat, and jumps to the rescue. Croup in a -hut with paper doors and windows full of cracks and -holes, where the wind steals in on all sides, many miles -from home, is not too easily defied. But we soon had a -wharrow fire and hot water, a croupy child’s mother always -has ipecac and flannels close at hand, and while we -changed hot applications for an hour or so, we were -forced to draw on our benumbed inventive faculties for -novel stories to interest the half-suffocated child. The -following day we were obliged to continue our journey, -for exposure and discomfort there exceeded what must be -met on the road, but the child, usually slow in rallying -from those attacks, on this occasion made an especially -quick and favorable recovery.</p> - -<p>In April of this year, 1896, Dr. J. McLeavy Brown, of -the English Custom’s Service, was placed in charge of the -nation’s finance by a royal decree, a post which he continued -to fill for a long time to the benefit of all concerned, -except the squeezing officials, who, now that their -opportunities in that line were curtailed, proceeded to -squeal lustily instead.</p> - -<p>In the summer of 1896, Miss Jacobson, an enthusiastic -young missionary nurse, who had learned the language -with wonderful quickness, and won the hearts of Koreans -on all sides, was very ill with dysentery for several weeks. -She recovered apparently and returned to her work, but -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">200</span> -was soon attacked by violent fever, which refused to yield -to the usual remedies, until at length the existence of a -local organic disease was developed, which in spite of -every effort carried our dear sister away. But her deathbed -was a place of rejoicing rather than mourning. More -than one exclaimed it was good to be there. Bitterly as -we knew we should feel the loss of so helpful and sympathetic -a sister later, we could but enter into her joy at that -hour. Her bedroom seemed like the ante-room to the -throne-room itself. Her face was wreathed in smiles, and -a look of unearthly glory lay upon it. Her words were all -of joy and hope, and full of the rapture the realized presence -of the Lord only can give.</p> - -<p>We felt we had no right to make place for selfish -mourning there, she was so manifestly happy, and to depart -was so far, far better. When her remains were taken -to the cemetery, now becoming rich with much precious -dust, her casket was carried on the shoulders of the native -Christians, who sang joyful songs of the better land all -the way. It was like the return of a conqueror, and the -country people, as they saw and heard, asked what kind of -death or funeral was this, all triumph and joy? Where -were the signs and sounds of despair that follow a heathen -corpse?</p> - -<p>To carry a dead body is looked upon as very degrading. -So the fact that the native Christians insisted on doing -this, and would not allow hired bearers to touch the dear -form, showed how they all loved and honored Miss Jacobson; -and I have told it to show the kind of feeling which -exists between the people and their foreign teachers, as -well as to lay a little tribute to the memory of a noble and -devoted fellow-worker. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">201</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Our Mission to Japan—Spies—One Korean Summer—The -Queen’s Funeral—The Procession—The Burial by Starlight—The -Independents—The Pusaings—The Independents -Crushed.</p></blockquote> - -<p>In the following spring Mr. Underwood was asked to -go to Japan, with instructions to assist his highness, the -second prince, to leave for America.</p> - -<p>It was thought best that he should there, under Christian -tutors, prepare for college, or a military training, and -my husband, realizing of what immense importance this -plan well carried out might be to Korea in the future, -gladly consented to accept the mission. All arrangements -were made by the government in Seoul, and Mr. Underwood -was instructed exactly as to the wishes of his -majesty. To our combined amusement and indignation, -we soon discovered we were followed everywhere by spies -from the day we left home. Mr. Underwood’s letters to -gentlemen in Tokyo, although mailed with care and -secrecy, were read by others before they reached the hands -of those to whom they were addressed. We were -shadowed everywhere, and even had the creepy pleasure -of knowing that a detective slept on the landing just below -our room.</p> - -<p>Thus for the second time in our lives were we honored -by being made the special objects of espial, connected in -the respectable mind with criminal courts, jails and all -sorts of ill odors and combinations of the unutterable. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">202</span> -However, as we had nothing on our consciences, I believe -we rather enjoyed our detectives, aside from a slight indignant -sense of insult. We certainly took a mischievous -pleasure in the hunt. There were undoubtedly those who -considered it to their interest to keep the prince in Japan, -but when the king’s commands were fully understood, no -further difficulty was made, and the long-desired end was -gained, as far as a departure for America was concerned, -but as through influence beyond our control, and without -our knowledge till later, a Romanist interpreter was sent -with him, the plans and hopes for his royal highness in -America were destined to disappointment.</p> - -<p>In the following summer sickness entered our home, a -debilitating fever which would not yield to treatment kept -my husband week after week confined to his bed. His -strength of course steadily failed, he became extremely -emaciated and unable to retain nourishment in any form. -We were at the river Han, in a house on a bluff, where we -usually spend the hot and rainy season; but it was several -miles distant from the city, advisers and remedies. It was -lonely work, not knowing what turn the disease might -take, with friends and helpers so far away.</p> - -<p>At length, one night my trials seemed to reach a climax. -The rain poured down, more like a foe with iron blows -besieging a fort than water from the clouds. The wind -blew with almost hurricane fury and the lightning was -constantly accompanied by terrific claps of thunder. My -husband was too ill to notice and in a heavy stupor. Soon, -however, the poor thatched roof began leaking like a sieve, -while water flowed in around the window and door casements.</p> - -<p>The invalid lay in a heavy bed, extremely difficult at any -time to move, still more so with his weight and the necessity -of moving it as gently as possible. Our cousin, a lady -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">203</span> -of no great size or strength, and I managed by exerting all -our combined force to shove the lumbering piece of furniture -to a place where water did not drip on it and the invalid; -and then ran to find pieces of sacking, bath towels, -sheets, waterproofs, etc., to soak up the flood that was -constantly pouring in everywhere and dripping through -from the second floor to the first.</p> - -<p>The kitchen was almost emptied of utensils, which were -placed under the waterfalls all over the house. While -every now and then my husband’s bed must be pushed or -dragged to a new place. The frail house rocked as if it -must surely fall before the fury of the storm. It was one -of those occasions which probably every one experiences, -once or twice in a lifetime, when inanimate nature seems -to join with untoward circumstance, and even God himself -seems to have hidden his face, and all the seen and unseen -powers of the universe to have combined against body and -soul. But he who has drunk the very dregs of every bitterness -we ever taste never forsakes us no matter how -dark things look, and I knew on that awful night we were -not as desolate as we seemed.</p> - -<p>In the morning Dr. Avison came out from the city and -kindly invited me to have Mr. Underwood taken there to -his home, which was on a hill with plenty of breeze, and -where I should have advice and medicines close at hand. -So our sick man, placed on a long cane chair with -poles attached to each side, covered with waterproofs, -blankets and umbrellas, and carried by eight coolies, was -taken back to Seoul.</p> - -<p>Not more than a week later our little one was stricken -with the same fever. Both father and child were desperately -sick for another fortnight, but both were spared, and -after weeks of prostration moved about like pale skeletons, -whom nobody found it easy to recognize. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">204</span></p> - -<p>About this time a great deal of uneasiness was beginning -to be felt among certain classes over the king’s long -stay in a foreign legation, especially by all pro-Japanese, -and in October, 1896, the king was formally requested by -a Council of State to change his residence. In the following -February, at about the time when Mr. Waeber was -leaving the country and another Russian representative -coming to take his place, the royal household was removed -to the Chong Dong palace, near the English consulate and -American legation. Russian officers were in charge of all -Korean troops, and Russian influence predominant.</p> - -<p>In October of 1897 the king assumed the title of emperor, -and immediately after the dead queen’s rank was -raised to that of empress. In the following November, -her imperial highness’ funeral took place. It is common -among people of high rank to keep the honored remains -embalmed and sealed for months, or even years, until a -suitable time and place for burial has been pronounced by -soothsayers, and so two years after decease, after repeated -consultations with these costly and ghostly advisers, who -repeatedly changed their directions, a grave site was -finally decided upon and prepared and a day set.</p> - -<p>Two weeks before this, daily sacrifices were offered in -Kyeng-won palace, and on the first and fifteenth of each -month since her death special sacrifices had been offered. -All court officials wore heavy mourning and all citizens -wore half mourning.</p> - -<p>The grounds selected for the grave site were about -three or four miles from the east gate outside the city, -and many acres in extent. Money flowed like water, and -no pains or expense were spared to make the service and -everything connected with it as magnificent and stately as -the queen’s rank and the king’s devotion to her memory -required. The grave was prepared of solid masonry at -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">205</span> -the summit of a mound fifty feet high, a costly temple for -the temporary shelter of the remains, where the last rites -were to be performed, was erected near its foot, and a -number of other buildings were put up for the accommodation -of the court, the foreign legations and other -invited guests, for the funeral was to be held at night. -Refreshments and entertainment was provided for Koreans -and foreigners, officials, friends, soldiers and servants -to the number of several thousands.</p> - -<p>A courteous invitation was sent from the Foreign Office -to the legations, inviting the private residents (foreigners) -of Seoul to share this hospitality. The casket in a catafalque -was carried from the palace at eight o’clock on the -morning of the 21st of November, attended by five thousand -soldiers, four thousand lantern bearers, six hundred -and fifty police, and civil and military dignitaries of innumerable -grades. The scene was one of extreme and -varied interest. Thousands of people crowded the streets, -arches were erected over the road at intervals. There -were numberless scrolls recounting the queen’s virtues, -magnificent silk banners, beautiful small chairs, wooden -horses (for use in the spirit world), which, with all the -varied accoutrements of ancient and modern arms, and the -immense variety in the dress and livery of court and other -officials, retainers, menials, chair coolies and mapoos, made -a scene quite beyond description.</p> - -<p>The emperor and crown prince did not follow the bier -until one o’clock in the afternoon. His majesty had sent -us a special invitation to be present and go in the procession, -but we preferred to go quietly later, as humble -private mourners for a loved and deeply lamented friend, -in a spirit which had nothing in common with the brilliant -procession.</p> - -<p>When we arrived at nearly eight o’clock in the evening, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">206</span> -we found the extensive grounds lighted by red and yellow -(the royal and imperial colors) native lanterns, not two -feet apart, in double rows, along a winding and circling -road for a distance of three miles. Brilliant banners -streamed forth on the air, and here and there all over the -field were brightly blazing fires of fagots, where groups -of soldiers stood warming themselves, for it was bitterly -cold. It was a starlit night of crystal, sparkling clearness.</p> - -<p>There is much that is fitting in this custom of holding -funerals in these calm and holy hours of night, when -things of time and sense dwindle and look insignificant, -when the world’s bustle is all hushed, when the unsympathetic -glare of happy day is veiled, and only the soothing -balm of the quiet and darkness in harmony with the -sorrow-stricken heart is to be felt. In that hour the divine -presence seems to be most imminent, or more fully -realized, and eternity and the spirit world close around us.</p> - -<p>After six sets of prayers and sacrifices, and a final ceremony -of farewell, the remains were to be interred. At -three o’clock <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> everything was in readiness. A -beautiful yellow silk imperial carrying-chair, for the use -of the royal spirit, was first taken up the hill in great state, -by the appointed bearers. Then followed another of green -silk, and lastly the royal casket on its bier. Long ropes -were attached to the latter, held by men standing as closely -as possible to each other, along the whole length, in order -to insure the greatest steadiness. In addition, of course, -were the regular bearers, while one stood on the front of -the bier directing and guiding all. Everything was done -with beautiful precision, there was not a misstep nor a jar. -It is said that on such occasions a bowl filled to the brim -with water is placed on the bier, and if a drop overflows -severe punishment and disgrace falls upon the carriers.</p> - -<p>A solemn and stately procession of soldiers and retainers, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">207</span> -bearing banners and lanterns of alternate red -and yellow, accompanied and followed the casket, marching -in double file on either side and in close ranks, all -uttering in unison a low and measured wailing as they advanced. -Thus all that remained of our brilliant queen was -carried to its rest.</p> - -<p>Nothing could be more impressive, solemn and beautiful -than this procession, circling up the hill, beneath the -clear faithful watch of the stars and the fathomless depths -of limitless space, in that dark hour just before day. After -the bier followed the king and prince, who personally -superintended the lowering of the precious remains into -the tomb, even entering the crypt to see that the casket -was well rolled back under the great block of granite -which covered it.</p> - -<p>Sacrifices and prayers were again offered, the gigantic -wooden horses were burned, and the mourners retired. -An audience given to all the diplomats and invited guests, -for the expression of farewells and condolences, ended the -ceremonies at about eight o’clock in the morning.</p> - -<p>For some time before and after the removal of the king -to his own palace in Chong Dong, a growing feeling of -anxiety and distrust was felt over the preponderance of -Russian influence, which found expression in the formal -request made to the king to leave the legation.</p> - -<p>While his majesty was still residing there, and before -the uneasiness with regard to Russia had arisen, the “Independent -Club” had been organized by Mr. So Jay Peel, -with the consent of the king, to emphasize Korea’s independence -of China. The old columns, where tribute collectors -from that nation were received, were pulled down -and a new Independence Arch erected, as well as a large -building for the official business of the club, called Independence -Hall. The crown prince contributed a thousand -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">208</span> -dollars for this purpose. The club was immensely popular -with all classes and many of the nobility as well as the -commoners were members. But the real object of the club -was to keep Korea independent of <i>all</i> foreign powers in -general, and of Russia and Japan, as well as China, in particular; -to protest against, and prevent, if possible, the -usurpation of office and influence by foreigners, to stand -for the rights of the people, the autonomy of the nation, -its gospel being in a word, “Korea for the Koreans.”</p> - -<p>So that now, when the menace seemed to shift its -quarters from the west to the north, the Independence -Club began to make itself heard against Russia.</p> - -<p>A word with regard to one or two of its leaders may -be of interest. Mr. So Jay Peel had previously belonged -to the progressive party, and had been obliged to flee to -Japan, where after a short residence he went to America. -He was of very high rank and a wealthy family, but his -property having been confiscated he worked his own way, -graduating from a first-class college with highest honors. -Then taking a civil service examination, he had become an -American citizen. He obtained a government position, -which gave him light work with sufficient salary to enable -him to take a course in medicine, after which he received a -very fine government medical appointment, on a competitive -examination.</p> - -<p>But his heart turned to his country, and after the -Japanese war and the establishment of Japanese prestige, -he returned to Korea, where he became adviser to the -king, and soon after started a newspaper called the “Independent,” -which was printed half in English and half in -the native character. Mr. So proved himself a gifted, brilliant -and eloquent man, full of enthusiastic devotion to the -emancipation and welfare of his country, perhaps too impatient -and precipitate in trying to hasten the accomplishment -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">209</span> -of these great ends, a fault common with young and -ardent patriots. Mr. So was the first president of the club, -and was succeeded by Mr. Yun Chee Ho, a son of General -Yun, who had led the attack on the palace for the -rescue of the king. Like Mr. So, he had been for some -years away from Korea, having been educated partly in -China in an American Methodist Mission school, and -partly under the same auspices in America. Both he and -Mr. So are members of American Protestant churches. -Mr. Yun, who, however, still retains his Korean citizenship, -is also both a fine writer and speaker, and an enthusiastic -patriot and progressionist. He afterwards succeeded -Mr. So in the editorship of the “Independent.” -Their following consisted quite largely of impulsive, eager -young men, many of them Christians, very many of them -students, and probably included the majority of the brilliant, -energetic, and sincerely patriotic young men of the -capital.</p> - -<p>As has been said, after Mr. Waeber’s removal and the -king’s departure from the Russian legation, and a new -Russian minister had arrived, Korea became more than -ever subject to Russian influence. Russians swarmed in -the palace, the army and the treasury were completely in -their hands, and their absolute supremacy seemed only a -question of a few brief weeks or months.</p> - -<p>At this time, February, 1898, the Independence Club -offered a petition to the king asking the removal of all -Russians from the army and government offices. The -Russian minister requested the king to state his wish in -this matter, and soon after, being informed in the affirmative, -the Russians were all withdrawn for the time. April -12, 1898, coincident with this, Port Arthur was ceded to -the Russians by Japan, a fact which it was thought by -many had much to do with the retirement from Korea. It -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">210</span> -is most improbable that the action of Russia was in this -case out of consideration for the preferences of Koreans.</p> - -<p>The Independence Club now grew more and more -popular and held frequent loud and clamorous meetings, -at which public affairs were discussed with great freedom, -the wrong doings of high officials severely censured and -held up to public scorn, and unpopular laws sharply criticised -and bitterly inveighed against. They were full of -hope and patriotism, their aim and expectation seeming to -be to have all wrongs righted, all abuses done away with, -and Korea remade in a day a free government and people.</p> - -<p>The Independence Club held large mass meetings. The -shops were closed, the whole population was stirred, and -even women held meetings, incredible as it may seem. -As a result of which a written petition was sent to the government, -asking for seven reforms, abolishing torture and -other objectionable customs, and granting more liberties.</p> - -<p>The cabinet approved the request, the king added six -more new rules for reform, and Yun Chee Ho was made -vice-president of the Privy Council. At once another general -meeting of the public was held, and a committee appointed -by them printed tens of thousands of copies of the -new laws, and distributed them everywhere. Among the -thirteen new rules, it was suggested and consented to that -there should be established a sort of popular congress, a -law-making body, with powers advisory (certainly very -limited), composed of one hundred people, fifty of whom -were to be elected by the popular vote, and fifty to be appointed -by the king. But now the government began to -take the alarm and to realize that they had opened the -sluice gates of a flood which threatened to overwhelm -them.</p> - -<p>The night before the first election to this body was -to have taken place at Independence Hall, seventeen leading -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">211</span> -members of the club were arrested. It was the intention -of the minister of law to put these people to death, but -the populace rose <i>en masse</i>, crowded and excited meetings -were held everywhere, and so much feeling shown, that -the decision was changed, and they were sentenced to banishment -instead. But the populace continued to rage. -Large masses of people, who, while they did not arm themselves -or resort to violence, were angry and threatening, -gathered in front of the government offices in all public -places, demanding the release of the seventeen or that they -themselves should be arrested. At length, after five days’ -of threatening demonstrations and angry mobs, the seventeen -were released. Now, indeed, the Independents felt -they had gained a victory, the government had been defeated, -and the people henceforth could accomplish anything.</p> - -<p>The demand for the fulfilment of the king’s still unfulfilled -promises of thirteen reforms was again renewed. On -this the officials in person presented themselves before the -crowds, commanding them to disperse and promising -everything that was asked if they would do so, as a result -of which the people quietly dispersed.</p> - -<p>After long and patient waiting, without result, no -promises kept or reforms instituted, and on the contrary, -the bad officials who had been put out of office again reinstated, -the people assembled again one month later at -Chong No (the great thoroughfare) to renew their demands. -The police were then called up by their chief and -told to go to Chong No, and regardless of consequences -draw their swords and put to death all of the unarmed -multitude who would not disperse. Almost to a man, the -police began throwing off their official badges, saying they -were one with the people, and absolutely refusing to obey -such orders. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">212</span></p> - -<p>The soldiers were then called out, large bodies of troops -stationed in the main thoroughfares, and the crowds dispersed -at the point of the bayonet.</p> - -<p>The Independents then asserted it must be bad officials, -and not the king, who were thus oppressing them, and that -their petitions could never have reached his majesty. They, -therefore, according to long-established custom with petitions -for royal favors, all convened in front of the palace. -Thousands of men sat there quietly, night and day, for -fourteen days waiting to be heard.</p> - -<p>It was a thrilling and impressive sight. There was -nothing laughable about those rows of silent, patient, determined -citizens. Many had their food brought to them, -some had little booths or tents where they prepared meals -or slept, while others watched and waited, a few went -away to take food, only to return as speedily as possible. -The people had come to the palace to stay, until an answer -could be had from the king.</p> - -<p>After the Independents had been camped for some days -thus in front of the palace, the “<i>Pusaings</i>,” or “Peddlers -Guild,” gathered and camped in another part of the city, -with the avowed intention of attacking them.</p> - -<p>The “<i>Pusaings</i>” are, as their name indicates, a guild of -peddlers, bound together as a secret society for mutual -benefit and protection. They have connections and -branches all over the country, and are sworn to render -each other assistance whenever needed. Like the Masons, -they have secret passwords and signs, by which they make -themselves known to each other, and any member of this -great guild meeting another, even for the first time, is -bound to help him to the full extent of his ability. In this -way they soon become extremely powerful, and feared by -high and low, rich and poor. They could assemble a formidable -army at short notice, and their reputation as a -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">213</span> -ruffianly body of men has long been established. During -the reign of the Tai Won Kun, that crafty and astute old -politician decided to make friends of this dangerous guild, -rather than antagonize them, and accordingly granted -them a number of special privileges, one of which was -the right to collect taxes of certain kinds of merchandise, -in return for which they were to be regularly organized by -the government and to place themselves under the control -of governors of provinces and other officials, holding -themselves ready for service at any time. They wear a -peculiar straw hat and a somewhat different dress from -other Koreans, so that they are easily recognized where ever -seen.</p> - -<p>On the appearance of this large body of “<i>Pusaings</i>” the -king sent word to the people, in order to calm their suspicions, -that they need have no fear of the Peddlers, as the -police should be ordered to keep them back, and a cordon -of police was therefore drawn around the petitioners. At -length, however, the “<i>Pusaings</i>” made an attack one day -at an early hour in the morning, when some of the Independents, -who had retired during the night or had gone to -their breakfast, were away, and the number considerably -reduced. The police were immediately withdrawn, and -the whole assemblage of Independents were driven away, -and many of them seriously injured. When they attempted -to return the way was barricaded by soldiers, and their -enemies, the “<i>Pusaings</i>” were being feasted with food -sent out from the palace. The populace then assembled in -large numbers, with the determination to drive away the -Peddlers, which they did, wounding and killing a few. -Shortly after, however, a second battle was fought, in -which the people were forced to retreat and one of the Independents -was killed.</p> - -<p>The people’s party then again assembled at Chong No, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">214</span> -when the king again sent, promising he would give all -they asked if they would disperse, which they accordingly -did once more. Ten days later the king called them to -meet before the palace. On that occasion he came out to -them, standing on a platform built for the purpose, with -his officials around him, and the members of the foreign -legations occupying a tent at one side, and a large number -of other foreigners also present. This was indeed a new -thing in the history of so hoary a nation for the king to -come out to confer with the populace on matters of state. -The president of the Independents at that time, Kung -Yung Kun, and the ex-president, Yun Chee Ho, were -called up and presented by the king with a document -printed on yellow imperial paper, in which he solemnly -promised the establishment of the thirteen reforms.</p> - -<p>The meeting then dispersed, and the people waited another -thirty days, <i>but nothing came to pass</i>. With wonderful -determination and persistence, worthy of success like -the widow in our Lord’s parable, who waited long on the -unjust judge till by continual coming she wearied him and -obtained her desire, they again assembled at Chong No -and renewed their demands.</p> - -<p>Had they only possessed a Hampton, a Cromwell, a -Washington, or a Roland, history might have repeated -itself once more. And yet perhaps it was no more the -want of leaders of the right fearless stamp, than the need -of thousands of such determined dauntless, unconquerable -souls as those who stood back of Cromwell and Washington.</p> - -<p>They, however, renewed their requests, and insisted -they would allow no government business to be done until -the king’s promises were fulfilled. Soldiers were sent out -from time to time and dispersed them, but they gathered -again and again. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">215</span></p> - -<p>At length the government accused them of scheming to -establish a republic and elect a president, and bodies of soldiers -and police were placed all over the city. Wholesale -arrests were made, little groups of even three or four were -dispersed by the use of detectives and a very wide system -of espionage, meetings were prevented, the Independents -crushed, and their buildings and property confiscated. -Thus, for the time at least, ended what looked like the beginnings -of a revolution, but the people were not ready -and the time not ripe. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">216</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Itineration Incidents—Kaiwha—Christian Evidences—Buying -Christian Books instead of an Office—Seed Sowing—Moxa’s -Boy in the Well—Kugungers Again—Pung Chung—Pyeng -Yang—The Needs of the Women.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Another long trip into the interior was taken the -following year, some newly arrived missionaries from -Canada who wished to study methods and people accompanying -us. Just before this Mr. Underwood had revisited -the river villages where there were Christians -under his oversight, and found as usual a steady growth -everywhere, not that there are no drawbacks, none who -have backslidden or proved insincere, but that such instances -are marvelously rare, and that the encouragements -far exceed the discouragements, that the little groups are -steadily growing in numbers, in enlightenment and the -home life is vastly higher in tone. At Haing Ju a commodious -new chapel had been built, a fact which the people -had kept as a surprise for the missionary. As usual he -found new groups of believers which had sprung into life -since his previous visit.</p> - -<p>The beginning of one of these at Kimpo, as related by -Mr. Shin, was very interesting. Mr. Shin said that one -night as he lay asleep he thought he saw the Moxa come -up to him, with the long walking-stick in his hand which -he uses on his country trips. Prodding the sleeper vigorously -with it, he said, “Come, come, why don’t you go to -work; get up and go over there (pointing across the river -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">217</span> -to Kimpo) and pass on the Word.” Shin woke up, but -fell asleep again, and again the Moxa came back and even -more urgently bade him get up, and go and carry the gospel -to Kimpo. Again he awoke, and the third time fell -asleep, and dreamed as before. He knew no one at Kimpo -and had no reason to think there was any more hopeful -opening there than elsewhere, but the dream impressed -him so strongly, that he felt he must go. When he reached -there, he found one or two families whose interest had become -awakened through some books, and who were longing -for some one to come and teach them more. One man, -once a burly and notorious prize-fighter, is now the leader -among the Christians in that vicinity, and one of the shining -lights among the river villages, and this same Kimpo -is one of the most promising centers of work.</p> - -<p>The training class, the instruction of which was part of -Mr. Underwood’s business in the interior that fall, was -to be held in Hai Ju. The class was taught five hours each -day, and women who would come were met and taught by -me in my room. One hour after the men’s class in the -afternoon was given to street preaching, our Canadian -friends, Dr. Grierson and Mr. McRae, helping immensely -with music and singing and in the distribution of tracts. -A general meeting for prayer and Bible study was held in -the class room every evening.</p> - -<p>When the class had adjourned, we proceeded to make -the usual circuit of the part of the province under our -care. As on the river, so here along the sea and in the -mountains, the numbers of new centers of gospel growth -were amazing. “It springeth up he knoweth not how.” -In one place a couple of old men, travelling along rather -weary, sat down by the roadside and as they rested sang a -hymn. A farmer whose house was near, overhearing the -strange words of the song, came and questioned, and ere -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">218</span> -long became a believer, with his family. From this household -the blessing overflowed for neighbors and friends. In -another case a young bride made a strong stand for Christ -in the heathen family into which she had married, until she -had won over the entire family to the same faith, and they -again had brought others. These are only a couple of examples -that were paralleled in many communities.</p> - -<p>Some of the answers of these poor half-taught people -when catechised were given in a previous chapter, another -that of an old woman I thought significant and touching. -When asked where Jesus was, she said promptly, “He’s -right here with me all the time.” “Yes, but where else is -he?” Confused and troubled that she could not satisfy -the Moxa, she said, “I’m only a poor ignorant old woman, -I don’t know where else he is, but I <i>know</i> he is right here -in my house all the time.” The devotion of the people to -us, because through our hands had come the bread of life, -was to me exceedingly affecting, and everywhere the relation -existing between the people and their Moxas is a -peculiarly close and tender one. When one of the missionaries -was sick for some time, the women in the country -villages through a large section held united daily -prayer for her for several weeks. This without her knowledge, -quite spontaneously, and without prearrangement -among the different localities.</p> - -<p>The following year I was providentially hindered from -making the trip to the country with my husband, but in -1900, with Dr. Whiting, Mr. Underwood and our little -son, I was again able to go to Whang Hai province. We -started in February, and as there was now a little steamer -which had begun to ply between Hai Ju and Chemulpo, -we decided to profit by it, as this would be both easier and -cheaper than the old way. <i>Kaiwha</i> (as they call progress) -had “<i>twessoed</i>” (become) considerably since our -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">219</span> -last trip. A railroad had been laid between Seoul and -Chemulpo, with trains traveling about fifteen miles an -hour. The steamers referred to are a marvel also as specimens -of said <i>kaiwha</i>. About the size of an ordinary despatch -boat, or small tug, they are not too commodious.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="CANDY_BOY" src="images/p218.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CANDY BOY</p></div> - -<p>There are two cabins, neither of which is high enough -for tall people to stand erect in, one of which, with hardly -room for three or four to occupy it with comfort, is -packed with the unhappy second-class passengers. The -other is somewhat larger, about twelve feet long by six -wide. This room contains a table and six chairs, and in it -are often stowed from ten to twenty first-class passengers. -Here one meets “the world.” Korean officials, Korean, -Chinese or Japanese merchants, French Romanist priests, -strolling acrobats, singers, dancing girls, and Protestant -missionaries. All except the latter smoke until the air -will slice nicely, and many of them indulge in native or -foreign liquor till their society is almost past endurance.</p> - -<p>The boat follows the river northward past the historical -island of Kangwha, with its picturesque walls and -gates, till it flows into the sea, an arm of which our course -crosses at this point to reach the shore on which lies the -little village which is the port for the city of Hai Ju. On -the day in question, when we profited for the first by all -these contrivances of <i>kaiwha</i>, the ice was still in the river, -ours being only the second trip made since it began to -break. Nothing could be seen on all sides but great -blocks of ice, much larger than our little craft, and all in -a conspiracy apparently to prevent our advance, banging -and pushing us, now on one side and now on the other. -With much panting and puffing, occasionally sustaining a -pretty severe shock but quickly gaining advantage lost and -shoving aside her clumsy opponents, our boat steadily -forced her passage onward and gradually gained the clear -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">220</span> -waters of the sea. This trip lasted only sixteen hours, -while it would have taken three days overland.</p> - -<p>We landed at half past eight on the edge of a long -stretch of mud flats, covered with slimy boulders and -stones, all of which now lay under a foot of half frozen -snow, which hid the rocks and made the going very precarious -in the darkness. There was only one warm room -to be had and no food, while the “warm room” was only -a little less cold than out of doors. Thoroughly chilled, -tired and hungry, and somewhat dispirited, as hungry -folks are apt to be, we all retired to the floor, to rest finely, -and waken in a better mind next morning, none the worse -for our seafaring.</p> - -<p>At Hai Ju the believers gathered around us with the -warmest welcome. They were all mourning the loss of a -beloved leader who had died a short time before. We of -course held meetings with them during the two days, -which were all we could spare at that time, saw and talked -with all who would come, trying to strengthen and comfort -the believers, and promising if possible to remain -longer with them on our return. One poor young -wife whose husband had given up Christianity and gone -back to the his old life, and whose heathen mother-in-law -was persecuting her cruelly, excited our pity. Pale, emaciated -and tearful, she came begging our advice and help.</p> - -<p>From Hai Ju we proceeded to Chang Yun Eub, where -the training class of leaders was to be held this year, and -where Dr. Whiting and I had planned to hold a somewhat -similar class for women. On the way a stranger, seeing -my husband was an American, asked if he knew “a certain -’<i>Un Moxa</i>’ (Preacher Underwood) who sometimes came -down that way and taught people to be good and kind to -each other,” showing that he had been reading from the -book of native Christian practice. All along this road, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">221</span> -where only a few years before there was absolute ignorance -of the gospel, we found evidences of the dawning -light. Here and there in a wayside inn we found a Christian -book, or a family half timidly beginning to believe. -Everywhere they had heard of “the doctrine,” and heard -well of it.</p> - -<p>Everywhere there was a pleasant welcome for us and a -ready ear for our story. At Chang Yun Eub, quite a -number of Christian women had gathered to meet and -welcome us. One or two days after reaching there I took -a ten-mile ride in a bitter wind to visit a sick woman, -which resulted in severe influenza and bronchitis, which, -though I managed to fight off for five days, at length confined -me to my room and bed for three long weeks. Many -of the women had come from five to twenty miles on foot -to study with us, so it was bitterly disappointing, but Dr. -Whiting did her own part and mine, too, nobly. Nearly -all the villages in that district were represented by the -local leaders and pastors at Mr. Underwood’s class. They -at this time organized a missionary society, which they -themselves originated and planned in part, before our arrival. -They perfected their scheme with Mr. Underwood’s -advice.</p> - -<p>Taking a map of the district, they arranged to work in -couples, and to each man was assigned four heathen villages, -each to be visited once a month, each man pledging -himself to do this work every Sunday during the year. -Two superintendents were appointed to oversee the general -work, advise and help these missionaries, and report -to Mr. Underwood. All were to go at their own expense.</p> - -<p>By the time the class was over I was able to be carried -along the road in my chair, and only one who has been -shut in for three weeks, in a tiny room not eight feet high, -without a pane of glass in it, quite alone most of the time, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">222</span> -can realize how glad I was to be released into the fresh, -sweet air and sunshine. Before leaving Chang Yun we -bade a long farewell to one of the Christian women, who -with a smile and the sweet words, “It’s all grace, it’s all -love,” fell gently asleep in Jesus. Dr. Whiting, in accordance -with previous plans, did not go with us further, but -returned to Seoul. After leaving Chang Yun, our first stop -was made at the village of On Chang, where we met quite -a little handful of believers. One of these, a woman who -was the first convert in that place, had been much troubled -and burdened with a sense of guilt. At length she heard -that in Chang Yun there were people that could tell her -of One who could forgive sins. She went forthwith and -learned of Jesus and found peace and pardon, and came -back to spread the good tidings and “pass on the word” -to her neighbors.</p> - -<p>One of these women was a peddler, a class who have to -make some sacrifices to keep the Sabbath. Nearly all their -business is done at the little fairs or market days, which -take place every five days at one or another of the hamlets -in a certain circuit. Quite often one of these days falls on -a Sunday, and so a whole five days’ profit is lost. But -this makes no difference, the day is cheerfully kept; another -who kept an inn as cheerfully decided to sell no more -liquor, her chief source of profit.</p> - -<p>Our next stopping place was at Cho Chun, and as soon -as we neared the vicinity, we were met by men, women -and children, who had walked out to meet us and conduct -us to the home of the leader, in this case the richest and -chief man of the whole neighborhood. People professing -Christianity gathered here from several small villages, -were examined and many baptized. It seemed too hard -that we had only so short a time to stay in these places -where we were needed so much. Most of the women -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">223</span> -actually wept when we were obliged to say farewell, and -the men and boys followed us miles, sometimes to the next -stage in our journey. They are touchingly grateful for -the little we do for them, while we thank God for allowing -us to learn from them, their simple childlike faith and entire -dependence on him.</p> - -<p>Mrs. Ha, the wife of the leader, was the only one in the -village who could read, and she taught the other women -beautifully. Calm, strong, intelligent, she seemed to me a -rare type of a Korean woman, and one who was destined -to be very useful if she were only better instructed. She -was well acquainted with the Gospels and Acts, the only -Scriptures till quite lately in their hands, and with nearly -all the hymns. But her opportunities for study and instruction -were also very few.</p> - -<p>After leaving Cho Chun nearly twelve miles distant was -our next destination, a little country town of about two -thousand people, which we reached after a few hours’ -travel. Here we lodged in a neat and comfortable little -building consisting of two rooms, with a lean-to kitchen, -which the natives had built for us near to the church, half -at their own expense. The steps by which we ascended -to our rooms were the family ancestral worship stones, -which the Christians had once greatly treasured, but for -which they had no further use. The women flocked in to -greet me, and next day I had the larger room, sixteen by -twenty-four feet, crowded with heathen women who came -to see the foreign woman and child, but were willing to -hear about Christ. Gifts of candies, fruits and other food -poured in as usual.</p> - -<p>Many were examined for baptism, and gave most satisfactory -evidence of conversion, but among them all one -deaf old woman interested me most. She was very deaf -and stupid. It seemed almost impossible for even the Korean -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">224</span> -leader to make her hear or understand the questions. -She was most anxious to be baptized, but how to learn -whether she knew enough of the gospel, we were at a loss -to discover.</p> - -<p>At last a question seemed to reach her, “Where are you -going when you die?” Her face brightened and the answer -came, “I’m going to Jesus.” Mark, not heaven, but -Jesus. This is the keynote that is always struck, Jesus, -their stay now, and hope hereafter, their wisdom, righteousness, -and sanctification.</p> - -<p>The first news of the gospel was brought here to Eul -Yul by a man of high family, considerable wealth and official -connections, who went to Seoul with the intention of -buying an office. He heard about Christ, however, while -there, and instead of an office, bought a donkey load of -books, which he took back to Eul Yul, and there distributed -among his neighbors. About the same time a certain -magistrate, just appointed, and going down there to -his office, who was a friend of my husband’s, invited him -to visit him at Eul Yul when in the country. Mr. Underwood -thanked him, but replied, “You know if I go it will -be only with the one purpose of preaching.” “Certainly, -come and preach,” was the answer.</p> - -<p>So Mr. Underwood promised he would do so if his -friend, the magistrate, would see that a large and convenient -official building was placed at his disposal for services -while there. This was willingly promised at once, -so the class was appointed to be held there that year, and -with the rally of Christian leaders, and the earnest preparatory -work of the man who had preferred Christ to an -office (of which Mr. U. had not previously been informed), -Christianity in Eul Yul began most auspiciously. -Up to the present time, however, he who had been so -earnest in preaching the gospel, and so generous in supporting -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">225</span> -it, had never been baptized. The difficulty was -that he had two wives, with neither of whom could he -bring himself to part. These concubines have a strong -hold, and justly so, on the men who had made them part of -their family, and on whom they are dependent. All a -man’s magnanimity, generosity and tenderness are appealed -to on behalf of these women, who, unlike the dancing -girls, have in the eyes of the community a certain share -of respectability, and are usually not bad or unprincipled, -but have been taught to look with toleration and complaisance -on such a life, the common custom.</p> - -<p>However, now, at last, he decided while we were there -to take the step and put away the second wife, providing -her with a home and fields enough to give her a good income. -So he and his wife and baby, and his grown son -with his wife and little one, in company with a number of -others, were baptized. The people of Eul Yul had built -their own church, as well as one-half of the guest house, -for their missionary. When we left, every believer who -could walk came to bid us farewell, “<i>Pyeng anikasio</i>” -(Go in peace). We had a last prayer and praise service, -and parted with mutual good wishes and regrets, a long -train of men and boys as usual streaming out along the -road, with and behind us.</p> - -<p>Our next station was Pak Chun, six miles away (the -distances used to be twenty and thirty miles, now six, -eight or twelve), but before we reached there we must -stop and meet a little band of Christians at a farm where -seed had been dropped by passing believers and where a -whole family had been converted. Here we met a young -bride from another hamlet not far distant, who with her -husband had lately become a believer. At Pak Chun we -were received with the usual hearty welcome. Here I -found Mrs. Kim of Sorai like a ministering angel going -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">226</span> -her rounds of self-appointed, unpaid ministration of the -Word, teaching the gospel to these poor women, not one -of whom could read. A good many from neighboring -villages were examined here, and we held a baptismal and -communion service just before leaving. The church was -as yet unfinished and extremely damp and cold, as well as -uncomfortably crowded, so I sent our little son out of -doors to play until we should finish. But scarcely had the -meeting well begun when word came that “the Moxa’s -child had fallen in the well.” Mr. Underwood rushed to -the rescue, giving out a long hymn as he started, to keep -the crowd occupied. However, by the time we reached the -scene he had emerged from his cold bath and been taken -to our room.</p> - -<p>The ox-cart with all our packs was standing at the door, -just about to start for the next place. It was the work of -a few moments to pull down the whole load, open our -trunks, and get out dry garments, only too thankful that it -had not already trundled several miles on. I found a -dripping, shivering little animal awaiting me as I rushed -into our quarters, but no harm was done, he was soon -quite dry and warm, his wet apparel dangling from the -ox-cart acting as an excellent road sprinkler. Just before -leaving I saw a child quite naked, covered with smallpox -pustules in full bloom, standing near our door. I asked -one of the natives if there was much of that disease in the -village at present. “In every house,” was the concise reply. -“Why there is none in the house we are in,” said I, -with confidence. “Oh, no, they took the child out the day -you came in order to give you the room,” was the reassuring -answer. We had eaten and slept in that infected -little room, our blankets all spread out there, our trunks -opened, everything we had exposed. We had even used -their cooking utensils and spoons and bowls before our -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">227</span> -own packs had arrived. For ourselves we had been often -exposed, and believed ourselves perfectly immune. Mr. -Underwood had nursed a case of the most malignant type, -and I had been in contact with it among my patients, but -our child! So we sent a swift messenger with a despatch -to the nearest telegraph station, twenty-four hours away, -to Dr. Wells, in Pyeng Yang. He at once put a tube of -virus into the hands of a speedy runner, who arrived with -it a week later.</p> - -<p>We found the country full of smallpox, measles, and -whooping cough, and added to our smallpox experience, -an exactly similar one with measles. The record of one of -these little villages is much like another. At Pung Chun, a -place with a magistracy, we found the crowds almost unbearable, -especially as the magistrate was away and his -substitute unwilling to help us. No foreign woman or -child had ever yet been there, and we were fairly besieged -by people who after any fashion, lawful or otherwise, were -determined to see the curiosities. Too tired that night to -do more than hold a brief meeting with the few Christians -who lived there, we barred, barricaded and curtained ourselves -in. How often under such circumstances I have -been able to sympathize as never before with our blessed -Lord, who was forced to withdraw to the mountains and -desert places for a little rest and quiet from the importunity -of the eager selfish crowds, who thronged him and -followed him even there in thousands. We read “They had -no leisure as much as to eat,” and that he forbade the people -he healed to spread the news abroad. Quite uselessly. -What weariness, what longing he must at times have felt -for a few hours of quiet and peace, only the hunted can -realize, yet how patient, gentle and compassionate he was!</p> - -<p>The next day I talked to a room packed full of heathen -women, those who could not force an entrance crowding -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">228</span> -around the doors and windows, as many as could get a -view or hearing. They listened with interest and attention -for more than an hour, asking intelligent questions -occasionally, and treating me with perfect respect.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon I had another and smaller company of -those whom Mrs. Kim of Sorai had culled from among -those she had been visiting and teaching as the most hopeful -cases. With these we talked, sang and prayed, trying -as usual to make the most of the few hours we could be -with them. A few people were examined and two or three -baptized of those who had been believing for some time.</p> - -<p>From Pung Chun we passed through a lovely valley and -over a beautiful mountain pass to a village nestled right -up in the mountains. Here the interest had extended to -two villages of hardy mountaineers, all of which had been -started by an old woman from Sorai. She cannot read, but -she continually preaches Christ to every one whom she -meets. Her son is the local leader, and his family are all -Christians.</p> - -<p>Thus far Mr. Underwood had during our circuit examined -one hundred and fifty people and baptized seventy-five. -About half of the other seventy-five were received as -catechumens. At Pung Chun we were greatly interested -to learn that the Koreans have a custom of sprinkling -blood on the door posts, and above the door of the home to -drive away evil spirits. When I told my class at Chang -Yun how the Jews did this before leaving Egypt, and -what it meant, they looked at each other and exclaimed -with surprise, “Why, that is our custom, too.” But at -Pung Chun we found that it had only recently been done -at the very inn where we stopped, and were told that it -was quite a common custom in that part of the country. -The natives also have a cold rice festival, much like the -feast of unleavened bread. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">229</span></p> - -<p>The scenery from Chil Pong to Won Tong is very -beautiful. The road winds through the mountains, accompanied -by a charming little river most of the way. There -is a wonderful restfulness in the quiet of these mountains, -where no rattle of the world intrudes to break the divine -silences, or to interrupt the voices of nature, which only -emphasize the peacefulness that envelops one. One -feels God near and communion with him easy. The heart -lifts itself with no effort in scenes like these.</p> - -<p>From Won Tong we passed to Sorai or Song Chun, to -which reference has already been often made in these -pages. We were lodged in the school room next the -church, a sunny, pleasant apartment. This Sorai school -was already famed through all the country round, and -Christians were sending their boys from other villages to -obtain the advantage of Christian teaching. Next morning -early a company of little girls and boys were waiting -outside my door, dressed in new clean garments of the -brightest possible colors (starched, dyed, and pounded to -a miraculous crispness, gloss and glory of tint, chiefly -scarlet, green and yellow), especially for this occasion. We -had a singing class with them every morning after that, -and a Bible story was told and explained, too. The -women’s class was held immediately after the children’s, -but many women came to the children’s class, and most of -the children came to that held for the women. In the -afternoon the women came again for another Bible lesson, -and in the evening men, women and children met for -united prayer, praise and Bible study with Mr. Underwood.</p> - -<p>I was again taken very sick here at Sorai, but recovered -when that result seemed most unlikely, through God’s -answer to the prayers of our native Christians, one of -whom, Mrs. Kim, spent the whole night in prayer for me. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">230</span> -Such love and devotion makes the tie between pastor and -people very strong.</p> - -<p>As soon as I was able to travel we hurried back to Hai -Ju and Seoul, for word had come, bringing the sad news -of the death of Mr. Gifford in one of the country villages -about sixty miles from Seoul. He had gone alone with a -Korean helper, and after a brief illness had passed away -suddenly at night, probably scarcely aware that he was -seriously ill. He was loved by all the Koreans, who could -not fail to recognize his spirituality and consecration. -Mrs. Gifford was then in an extremely weak state, having -never recovered her strength after a violent attack of -Asiatic dysentery the preceding summer. She had just -begun to improve a little, and we to hope that at last we -might look for her return to perfect health.</p> - -<p>A native messenger, all unannounced, rushed into her -presence and told her that her husband was dead. She -never saw his face again, or had the sad comfort of a message, -or one of these little souvenirs which women prize -and console their aching hearts withal. She wilted like -a lily, rudely snapped from the stem. When the first shock -was over and her mind became a little composed, several -days later, after friends had left her for a peaceful soothing -night’s rest, a Korean servant entered the room and -told her that her husband had been neglected and slighted -in his last illness, and had died alone quite uncared for. -She never rallied from this blow. Sweet, calm, uncomplaining, -she grew weaker and weaker, and only one -month after her beloved husband passed away her gentle -spirit followed. They had been extremely congenial and -well suited, and it seemed a gracious providence that they -were so soon reunited.</p> - -<p>Mrs. Gifford was a woman greatly beloved by every -one, and one of the most effective and consecrated women -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">231</span> -workers on the field, with a modest unassuming quiet -spirit, but with untiring devotion and self-effacement. -She worked here ten years for Christ. The Koreans, -whom she had loved so well and served so faithfully, bore -her to her grave and laid her beside her husband. We all -felt that the loss to the work was beyond expression, and -from a human view point irreparable.</p> - -<p>In the following fall we visited Pyeng Yang for the first -time since our wedding journey in 1889. The annual -meeting of all the mission (now grown quite extensive) -for the discussion and settlement of plans for work for the -coming year was to be held there; so we all risked our lives -on a crazy little steamer, which, however, contrary to -probabilities, landed us safely not far from our destination.</p> - -<p>Great were the changes we beheld. Missionaries in -comfortable pleasant homes, a large church (paid for with -native money), newly built, able to accommodate nearly -two thousand people, and great gatherings of simple -earnest farmer folk, which it did one’s soul good to see -and hear. To us, who on our last visit looked on that -great waste of heathenism, and discussed the advisability, -or otherwise, of starting a sub-station there, it was almost -overwhelming. To us, one of whom at least had come to -the country in the very beginning of the history of our -Protestant missions, and to whom in the light of the -records of work in other fields the task looked so stupendous, -so overwhelming, to find here in the far interior the -wonderful evidences of the power and goodness of God -filled our hearts with joy and awe. How could we ever -shrink or doubt, or fear again, or do aught but ascribe -“glory and honor, dominion and power, to him who sits -upon the throne and to the lamb for ever.”</p> - -<p>I regret that I have not personally seen more of the -work of God in northern Whang Hai and in Pyeng Yang -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">232</span> -provinces, so that I might give interesting incidents which -would put my readers more in touch with the Christians -there, but I copy from the reports of Pyeng Yang and -Syen Chyun stations for the year 1901 and 1902 the following:</p> - -<p>“In the whole territory covered by this station, Pyeng -Yang, there are 3,100 baptized adults, 3,737 catechumens -enrolled, and over 12,000 who attend more or less regularly -and in various ways come in touch with the gospel. -The total number baptized this year is 642, and the number -of catechumens received 1,363. There are in the Pyeng -Yang city church 1,153 members and catechumens, with a -congregation of from 1,200 to 1,600 on the Sabbath.</p> - -<p>“There are besides this eight country circuits, including -Ool Yul circuit, in the Seoul station work, and 184 out-stations, -with 5,684 members and catechumens.</p> - -<p>“There are 40 primary schools, one academy and 42 -teachers—37 men and 5 women—with an attendance of -740 pupils. Thirteen schools were organized this year. -All the country schools but one are self-supporting, and -that nearly so. There were 9,094 persons in attendance at -the hospital, also a medical class consisting of 4 members.</p> - -<p>“Apart from those held in Pyeng Yang, 107 special -Bible classes were held, bringing about 2,300 under instruction; -20 were taught by the missionaries, 87 by native -helpers and leaders. All these classes were carried on at -the expense of the Koreans.</p> - -<p>“There are now 136 chapels, 21 having been built this -year, at a cost of 5,367 nyang contributed by the Christians -unaided.</p> - -<p>“The total native contributions for all purposes (excluding -the hospital) amount to 43,949 nyang, about 5,860 -yen (or $2,930 United States gold).</p> - -<p>“The working force to look after and carry on this work -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">233</span> -consists of 7 ordained missionaries (one on furlough and -one newly arrived on the field), one medical missionary, 4 -single lady missionaries and 7 wives of missionaries.</p> - -<p>“There are also 21 unordained native preachers or helpers, -7 Bible women and 15 colporters and other assistants -doing evangelistic work.”</p> - -<p>From the general report of the Syen Chyun station for -1901-2 I also quote, “We now have organized groups in -15 of the 21 counties of the province, and believers in at -least 4 more of the other 6. The groups that have been -organized by a missionary’s visit, and organized with a -separate roll and church officers, number 44, but there are -at least 8 other places where Christians gather for worship -every Sabbath, and where the helpers visit regularly.</p> - -<p>“The number of persons baptized during the year, July -to July, was 267, which is the largest ingathering we have -yet been permitted to see in one year. All of these 267, -with the possible exception of 3 or 4 old persons, had been -catechumens on probation for at least a year. The harvest -would have been much larger had it been possible to visit -the western Eui Ju Circuit this spring, where a very large -number of candidates are waiting for baptism.</p> - -<p>“The number of infants baptized was 15. The number -of catechumens received amounted to 696. All of these -had been believers at least for two months, and in most -cases for a very much longer time, and were received only -after a very careful examination, under which, at the very -lowest estimate, 150 candidates were deferred. During -the same time 5 church members were suspended and 5 -excommunicated, and 16 catechumens dropped.</p> - -<p>“July first, therefore, there were on the church rolls 677 -church members, 25 baptized infants and 1,340 catechumens, -or a total of 2,042 enrolled Christians, who with the -unenrolled believers make a total of 3,429 adherents in all. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">234</span> -But of the above church members, 11 are under suspension, -and 8 more, unless they show signs of repentance, -will be disciplined when the missionary next visits their -groups. These 19 amount to 2.8 per cent of the church -membership. Amongst the 1,340 catechumens there are -109, or 8.1 per cent, whose names are retained on the -books, although at present they have lost their interest in -Christianity. Experience has taught us that it is well to -retain such for at least three years, unless they have been -guilty of some grave sin whereby the church is brought -into disrepute, as many of them coming under some new -influences are often won back to a Christian life.”</p> - -<p>The above quotations show how the church is growing, -and, especially the Pyeng Yang report, how well they are -giving both in labor and money for the support of the -gospel, and for its advancement among their heathen -neighbors. I will also insert a paragraph taken from the -above report for the same year, on the subject of self-support.</p> - -<p>“Just as soon as the native church produces ordained -pastors she must support them. For this the church is -being prepared. In this station but one helper is entirely -supported with foreign money, and four or five receive a -part only; all the rest of our unordained preachers or -helpers are entirely supported by the native church. With -a single exception, all of the thirty-five country schools -are entirely supported by the native groups where such -schools are carried on. It has long since been the rule for -the native Christians to provide their own house of worship, -the only exception being a few cases where a little -help seemed wise. Every possible means is being employed -to develop the same idea in the academy, thus putting -the highest possible value upon education, creating -the sentiment that it is an acquirement for which the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">235</span> -student may well labor or pay. It is being appreciated, too, -so far as it has been acquired at a respectable cost. Even -the hospital is on a fair way to become self-supporting to -the extent of paying for medicines and treatment.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="ELDER_SAW_OF_SORAI_AND_HIS_FAMILY" src="images/p234.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">ELDER SAW OF SORAI AND HIS FAMILY. <a href="#Page_238">PAGE 230</a></p></div> - -<p>“In every way the Korean Christians have shown themselves -not only able, even during a famine year, but also -willing to bear their share along the line of support. They -have not only borne the running expenses of the various -groups, supported their own country primary schools, contributed -to the academy, paid the salaries of the unordained -preachers, sent representatives to the training -classes at Pyeng Yang, and delegates to the council at -Seoul, but have given a considerable amount to help the -poor and contributed liberally to the Committee of Missions.”</p> - -<p>One more extract from these reports, that of Miss -Chase of Syen Chyun, I feel must not be omitted. It -ought to touch the heart of every Christian woman who -reads it. It is as follows:</p> - -<p>“There are 199 baptized and 588 catechumen women, -and as a conservative estimate 1,200 Christian women, in -north Pyeng An province. I have been able to go to the -merest fraction of this number. Those whom I have met -are much that we desire to have them be, and much not to -be desired, but as I think of them individually and collectively, -every other thought is eclipsed by the deep impressions -they have made upon me by their yearning to be -taught. The need for another for this field speaks for itself. -We request the mission to consider the urgent need. -In some places there has been manifest murmuring among -the people. They say they have waited long for a visit -from their pastor, they have waited long to receive the examination -for the catechumenate, they have waited long -for a woman to teach them. Every time that women come -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">236</span> -in from distant places they beseech me to promise to visit -their groups the next time I leave Syen Chyun.</p> - -<p>“Many a woman who has attended my classes has said -with tear-stained face, ‘As for believing, I believe. I am -clinging to Christ for salvation. I have no desire for any -trust but in him, but I am so ignorant. I know so little -about my Bible. I know not how to read its thoughts with -my dark mind. I know so little about the great Jesus -doctrine. How can God be pleased to call me his child, -when I know not how to glorify him?’ They say the men -stand out far on the other side of the curtain<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">4</a> and teach -great and wonderful things which they cannot comprehend, -but a woman can sit in their midst and listen to all -of their unlearned questions, and they are not ashamed to -let a patient woman see how little they know! It is not -easy to hear these heart-felt burdens and be helpless to -meet their need in any adequate manner.”</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">4</a> -Churches are divided by a curtain down the center, with -men on one side and women on the other. The preacher can -see both sides.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">237</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Another Itineration—Christians in Eul Yul—A Ride in an Ox-Cart—Keeping -the Cow in the Kitchen—Ox-Carts and -Mountain Roads—The Island of White Wing—A Midnight -Meeting—Thanksgiving Day in Sorai—The Circular Orders—New -Testament Finished—All in the Day’s Work—The -Korean Noble—Meetings of the Nobility.</p></blockquote> - -<p>We left Pyeng Yang about the 26th of September, 1900, -by one of the toy Japanese steamers, and reached Chinampo, -a half-Japanese, half-Korean port, at night. We -were accompanied by three young ladies, one of whom, a -new arrival, wished to study methods; one who needed the -bracing effect of out-of-door country life in the north for a -few weeks; and one who had previously arranged with me -to carry on a women’s training class in Eul Yul that fall. -We were obliged to spend the night in Chinampo, but arriving -late, we did not know where to find an inn, till we -met an old friend, Rev. Mr. Smart, of the Church of England -mission, who kindly found us a Japanese hotel. Here, -after telling them our nationality, our ages, our condition, -past lives and future intentions, and having been forced in -spite of all protests to remove our shoes, they condescended -to receive us as guests, at an outrageous price. -We must not use our own camp beds, but the mats which -had served no one knew whom before us; nor might we -have water in our rooms, but must perform all our ablutions -in the public hall on the lower floor.</p> - -<p>Next morning we gladly bade our too particular hosts -farewell, and crossed the river in a wretched old junk, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">238</span> -which looked as if it were on the brink of dissolution. -Fortunately, the weather was fine and mild, and the river -calm, else I am sure we should all have been dipped, for -even I had never yet beheld so dilapidated a craft. We -were all day on the river, only able to land after dark, -thanks partly to the nature of our vessel and partly to the -tides, for which we were forced to wait before landing.</p> - -<p>The following night was hot, the inns nothing more or -less than ovens, and morning found us all in an unusually -wilted condition, and to add to the general misery, the -young ladies of our party had made important additions to -their luggage, which threw us all four into the utmost consternation. -That evening we reached Eul Yul, where both -men’s and women’s classes were to be held. As usual the -people crowded in to meet us as soon as we arrived. Although -harvesting was on and it was one of the busiest -times of the year, quite a number of women came to study -with us. They were so bright and receptive, it was a -pleasure to teach them. I had some very interesting visits -with the women in their own homes, and was edified to see -the bright and practical way in which the Christian who -accompanied us talked with some of the unbelievers. One -woman was hesitating, fearing she was too ignorant or too -wicked to receive salvation, to which our native friend -said, “Why, if you are hungry, and a bowl of rice is set before -you, you eat right then, and just so if you want salvation, -you have only to take and eat.”</p> - -<p>The listener’s eyes filled with tears, it seemed too good. -All the time we were talking, another Christian woman sat -with bowed head asking God’s blessing on the word. In -the examination of applicants for baptism, I was much interested -to see how carefully our native leaders questioned -them. “You say you sin daily, but ask God to forgive, and -so have a happy and calm mind. Is it then no matter that -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">239</span> -you sin?” Again, to a woman who said her past sins were -forgiven, and her present sins were confessed every day, -he said, “Well, then, what sin have you committed to-day?” -She could or would only speak in a general way, -and after various questions, mentioned nothing in particular. -“But,” said Kim, “is that honoring God, to go and -confess you have sinned, and ask him to forgive you know -not what?” On Sunday twenty people were baptized. -During the communion service all eyes were streaming, -and some sobbed like children at the thought of what the -Lord had suffered for them.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon our native elder, Mr. Saw, gave us a -delightful illustrated Bible lesson on the Christian armor, -with illustrations drawn and colored by himself, and with -most appropriate references. The native Christian was -first represented in ordinary dress all unarmed, and in succeeding -pictures, one after another of the needed articles, -helmet, shield, sandals, breastplate and sword were added. -These illustrations were unique to the last degree and extremely -well drawn. In the evening an experience meeting -was held, when one after another told what the Lord -had done for them. Some had been the slaves of drink, -and had fallen again and again after repeated attempts to -resist, in their own strength, but now for years had been -free men in Christ, and were looked upon as miracles of -grace by their friends and neighbors.</p> - -<p>One man told something of his home life. He had been -a dissolute gambling fellow, whose reputation was well -known through all the surrounding counties. When he -went home at night, after days of absence and dissipation, -his angry wife would scold and reproach him, and he in -return would beat and maltreat the poor little woman. “It -was all misery and discomfort, but now, all peace and -love.” A neighbor who came in often remarked on this -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">240</span> -exceptionally happy home life, wishing hopelessly for -something like it in her lot. She could not believe the -happy wife when she told her it had once been so different, -and that all this came through Jesus.</p> - -<p>Then Mrs. Kim called in her husband and bade him -tell if this was true. “Why,” said he, “I’ll do more, I’ll -give my bond for it, bring paper and pen and I’ll write a -bond to any amount you choose to name, that if Jesus -comes into your home there’ll be peace there.” “Why,” -said he, “people say if the Lord were only here now to do -some of his miracles every one would believe, but I tell you -the Lord is doing greater miracles now than he ever did -on earth when he takes a vile wretch like me and changes -his heart.” One man had been afflicted with an apparently -incurable disease for over forty years, and now the Lord -had healed him; and one had been such a liar that no one -believed his honest statements, and yet now was implicitly -trusted by every one.</p> - -<p>It was decided before we left Eul Yul that the native -Christians of that district should employ two helpers or -evangelists to work among the ignorant believers of that -vicinity, and that twelve Bible or training classes should -be held in the different districts in that province during -the year, six to be in charge of Mr. Saw, and six taught by -Mr. Kim Yun Oh, our most intelligent leader. From Eul -Yul we went to Pung Chun, while Mr. Underwood visited -several smaller places more difficult of access. Miss -Chase and I divided the meetings, and were most thoughtfully -and attentively heard, the little room being packed -whenever we announced a service.</p> - -<p>Our quarters were not of the best, as the only place assigned -us for preparing our food was a little corner of -the cow’s stable. We have heard of people who “keep the -pig in the kitchen,” but to keep the cow there was certainly -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">241</span> -a degree worse than our flightiest fancy, and we at length -rebelled, with the result that a more sanitary place was -found for our culinary performances.</p> - -<p>After Mr. Underwood arrived, eleven people were baptized -here. The first public service for all was held in a -hired room in the largest inn in the place. The chief man, -after listening to all that had been said, arose and spoke -to the crowd as follows: “We all know that what we have -heard is true, there is nothing left for us to say but that -from to-day on we will believe.” Some of the men who -attended this meeting remained outside the door at first, -unwilling to be seen in such company, as they were respectable -gentlemen. After listening awhile they condescended -to step inside, and before the service was over -they had seated themselves in the front row, and admitted -it was very good.</p> - -<p>Aside from our kitchen arrangements, and a little -anxiety lest the cow should conclude to visit us in our -bedroom at night, and the persistent cock crowing at my -head from two in the morning, we had a lovely time at -Pung Chun.</p> - -<p>Again at one of the little villages up in the mountains -some of our chair coolies deserted us, and there was -nothing left for it but for our two young ladies to ride in -an ox-cart. They were a little doubtful about this new -mode of procedure, but the Koreans assured us it was -quite safe, and as our little son had traveled miles that -way, we encouraged them to try it, especially as it was a -last resort. So with many misgivings they perched themselves -on top of the loads, and the ox, a great spirited animal, -was brought up. When Miss Chase asked if he was -to be trusted, they assured her with the statement that he -could fight any ox in the country. It was supposed a good -deal of harnessing would follow, but when a noose was -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">242</span> -merely slipped over a hook, and with no warning the steed -literally galloped off, we were all somewhat startled, and -the young ladies gave themselves up, with such a team -running away.</p> - -<p>The ox-cart is extremely primitive, its two wheels have -only the clumsiest attempt at heavy wooden tires. The -soft mud roads are full of deep ruts, so that under the -most favorable circumstances the bumping and jolting are -unspeakable. When therefore their mettlesome animal -was at length of a mind to pause a little in his mad career, -they lost no time in the order of their descent from that -vehicle, and started off at a brisk pace, evidently decided to -walk all the way back to Seoul rather than jeopardize -their lives in such a contrivance and behind such a creature -again. However, the way was long, and before night they -changed their minds and resigned themselves to the ox-cart, -when his bovine spirits were a little subdued by his -journey, and he was somewhat less light and frisky than -in the morning.</p> - -<p>We arrived at Chil Pong, one of the villages perched -up in the mountains, early in the evening, but not so our -loads, which the country people manage in some miraculous -way to drag up the steep mountain roads on the ox-carts.</p> - -<p>It turned out that the ox-cart in use that day was a -very weak one and gave out entirely, breaking down half -way up the mountain. Another had to be brought from a -distance, and long delays ensued, where the average speed -is a snail’s pace, in spite of the experience with the lively -animal the day before. Fortunately by this time we had -obtained more coolies for the young ladies, so that our -party were all together; the little son having become such -a walker that he seldom patronized either chair or cart, -and often walked twenty miles a day. One of the helpers, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">243</span> -Mr. Shin, said, as he came up with the loads, supperless -and quite tired out, at twelve o’clock that night, that had it -not been that he was determined the pastor’s wife must -not go without her bed and pillows, the cart would not -have arrived at all. So tenderly do the people care for the -needs of their teachers.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="MRS_KIM_OF_SORAI_AND_HER_FAMILY" src="images/p242.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">MRS. KIM OF SORAI AND HER FAMILY. <a href="#Page_244">PAGE 244</a></p></div> - -<p>We found the mountains more beautiful, if possible, -than ever. It was October, and hills that in the previous -spring were rosy with rhododendrons and peach blossoms, -were now scarlet, gold and purple with the magnificence -of autumn foliage, asters and golden-rod. There was displayed -on all sides some of the most brilliant coloring I -ever saw. There were quantities of bitter-sweet wreathing -all over trees and rocks, berries of many varieties, and -bushes reminding me of that which Moses saw in Horeb, -burning but not consumed. And though in a different -way, still I too felt that the ground was holy with the unseen -but felt presence, and that it would be well to remove -one’s worldly shoes, which figuratively I did.</p> - -<p>A few days later we crossed a mountain pass at over two -thousand feet elevation, where we found the scenery more -and more beautiful and wild. The gallant and unwearied -“Captain” almost carried the rheumatic partner of his -travels up the last steep ascent. The alternative was to sit -in a chair and trust one’s self to a couple of tired coolies, -who might stumble and dash one to atoms; or with chipangi -(alpenstock) in hand, slowly drag one’s self up -and then down over the rocks and steep slippery road. -Arriving at the foot on the other side, we were once again -in dear Sorai, where a good hot floor soon took out all the -pain and weariness.</p> - -<p>It had been decided that from Sorai we were to visit a -certain island called Pang Yeng, or “<i>White Wing</i>,” where -quite a number of people were believing through the teaching -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">244</span> -of some of the natives. The story is worth telling. A -man, who had been banished to this island for a political -offense, had received a Christian book from his nephew, a -Methodist, just before his departure. The young man -told his uncle that this religion was the basis of all civil -liberty and civilization, so that the banished man in his -loneliness proceeded to read it, and to publish and teach -its doctrines among the islanders. He had been informed -that on the opposite shore at Sorai lived people who could -further explain the book and its doctrines, so one of the -natives, the oldest and most honorable in the village, made -a trip to Sorai, and begged Elder Saw to return with him -and teach them.</p> - -<p>They were lamentably ignorant, and while believing in -Jesus were still carrying on heathen worship; they were as -blind people only partly restored, who saw men as trees -walking. Saw was not able to go at once, but after some -time, when he visited them, he found the whole village assembled -with all preparations made for offering their -heathen sacrifices. He talked to them very earnestly and -faithfully, and they then at once gave up all their idolatrous -worship, and in a body promised only to serve the -one true God.</p> - -<p>The elder could not, however, remain long, and several -months later, when Mrs. Kim, the indefatigable voluntary -evangelist, visited them, she found that many of them -seemed to have fallen back almost completely into old -practices and beliefs. At first no one would receive her in -their homes, but she talked to the women outside the -houses so sweetly and winningly, that they at length invited -her in, and gathered around her to listen. A great -change was wrought through her teaching.</p> - -<p>We made the trip in a little Korean sailing junk, which -was rather small and uncomfortable for bad weather, but -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">245</span> -not at all out of the way on such a day as that on which we -started, with blue sky above, blue and sparkling water below, -and charming islands studding the sea like jewels.</p> - -<p>We found that White Wing measured about twenty -miles round the coast line and was nine miles long, with a -capital and several hamlets. It is extremely beautiful and -fertile, well fortified by bold picturesque cliffs along the -coast, with delightful valleys and gently rolling country -snugly nestled behind them. The people are all farmers, -living in the simplest and most primitive way. Money is -rarely seen, there is indeed no need for it, with no fairs or -stores. Their wants are few, they raise what they need -for food, clothing, warmth and light on their little farms, -bartering among each other to supply such simple articles -as their own labor has not provided.</p> - -<p>All appeared to have plenty of rice and firewood, and to -be quite content. Drunkenness and dishonesty are almost -unknown. The magistrate told us they rarely needed even -the slightest punishment, but were as they seemed to us, -a gentle, kindly, simple, honest farmer and fisher folk.</p> - -<p>We found a small church built on the hillside, and a -little company of believers, who were waiting for examination -and baptism. Although very ignorant, they were -most anxious to be taught, and Mrs. Kim, who had gone -with me from Sorai, and I were kept busy instructing the -women. Like the women everywhere in Korea, they -especially enjoyed the hymns, and were most eager to -learn them. The words were comparatively easy, but the -tunes were quite another matter. We realized the advantage -in their learning them, both as a means of fixing -divine truth and publishing it to others.</p> - -<p>We were to leave very early in the morning to catch the -tide, and the night before we had a farewell service in the -little church. When this was over, and good-byes said, I -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">246</span> -went to the tiny room to pack our belongings, and Mr. -Underwood to one of the Christian houses to give last directions -and counsel with the leaders. About ten o’clock -Mrs. Kim came to my door with one of the women, asking -very humbly if I would go to one of their homes and teach -them a little more this one last time, though it was late. -“We are so ignorant and have none to guide and teach -us,” said they pathetically. Of course I was delighted to -go, and followed them to a farmer’s thatched cottage. It -was one of the poorest and rudest of the native homes; in -one corner a farm hand was lying asleep, in another a tiny -wick burning in a saucer of oil was the only light in the -room. We sat down under this, and the poor, rough, -hard-working women clustered round us as closely as -possible. Their faces and hands bore the marks of care, -toil, hard lives and few joys, but they were lighted with a -glorious hope which transformed them, and this with the -awakening desire for knowledge had banished the look of -wooden stolidity, which so many Korean women wear.</p> - -<p>While we talked of our Lord and his teachings and -conned again and again the hymns, a cough was heard at -the door, and it was found that a number of “the brethren” -were standing out there in the cold, frosty air of the -November night, listening to such scraps of good words as -they could catch. So when one of the women asked if they -might come in, although generally out of regard for Korean -custom and prejudice, I not only teach no men, but -keep as much out of sight as possible, there were on this -occasion no two ways about it, they must come, and in -they thronged. It was a picture which I shall never forget, -the dark eager faces, every one leaning forward in -eager attitude, all seeking more knowledge of divine truth, -hungering and thirsting after righteousness. A little -dim humble room, and only such a poor feeble wick to -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">247</span> -light them all. Such a poor feeble wick was I, and all -were looking to me for God’s light. “Feed my lambs,” -was his last command, and yet in many a hut and hamlet -his hungry little ones are starving.</p> - -<p>Next morning at the first streak of dawn they again -came, and with tears streaming down their faces, begged -me to come soon again. “Oh, we are so ignorant, and so -weak, how can we escape the snares of Satan, with no one -here to lead and teach us!” they exclaimed.</p> - -<p>Our return trip was very different from our first crossing. -A severe storm of wind and rain came up, the little -ship was tossed about on the waves like a plaything, and -Mrs. Kim and I were miserably sick, not to mention being -drenched with rain. It was impossible to make our port, -and we were obliged to attempt the nearest coast, which -offered no shelter from the wind, in addition to which, the -tide being out, our boat was bumped about mercilessly on -the rocks and stones with no chance of a landing for some -hours.</p> - -<p>However, all things come to an end sometime, and we at -length effected a safe landing, and were soon dried, -warmed and fed in a fishing village at hand, and reached -Sorai next day. Before we left Sorai, the Christians held -their annual Thanksgiving service. The church being too -small to hold all the people, a tent was spread outside. -After thanking God for their bountiful harvests and growing -prosperity, they offered thanks for the spiritual harvest -he had given.</p> - -<p>During the year over two hundred and fifty people of -the neighboring villages had been baptized through the -missions and labors of this one little church, not counting -a much larger number of catechumens received. They had -enlarged and repaired their church and school rooms, built -a house for their school teacher, one for their evangelist -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">248</span> -and another for the entertainment of strangers, who come -from a distance to the Sabbath services.</p> - -<p>They are an open-handed people, and when they read -of the famine in India they took up a collection, amounting -to fifty yen. As their daily wage rarely amounts to more -than ten cents gold, and as the community is small, this -was a large gift. Several of the women who had no -money put their heavy silver rings in the plate. These -rings are in many cases their only ornaments, and are -most highly prized, so that when they were given, we -knew that our people were giving till they felt it deeply.</p> - -<p>In the famine so severe in many counties last year, -Sorai, which was more blessed, helped many of its sister -communities. On our return to Hai Ju we had some interesting -visits with the women both in their own homes -and at our rooms. We were allowed to help prepare the -“dock,” or bread, which we found them making in one of -the houses, for a prospective wedding. They were having -a “bee,” a number of friends had come in to help, and -they seemed much amused and pleased when we asked to -be allowed to assist. We were very clumsy and awkward, -but we gained our end by making them feel we were one -with them. Later we were invited to the wedding, and -forced to swallow an amount of indigestible food, which at -other times we should consider as simply suicidal. But -when it is a duty, one simply shuts one’s eyes to consequences, -takes all risks, and comes through with an immunity -which I verily believe is miraculous.</p> - -<p>One old woman, who attended the meetings very regularly -and was very devout, is quite a character. With a -loud strong voice, but not the remotest glimmering of a -notion of harmony, time or tune, she shouts away several -lines and bars before or behind the rest, no consequence -which, and quite often, if the hymn chosen is not in her -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">249</span> -book or according to her mind, she chooses another and -proceeds as zealously as ever. When gently remonstrated -with, she replies, “<i>Oh, that is no matter, I’m not -following you, I’m singing (?) by myself.</i>”</p> - -<p>We had only been in Hai Ju a few days when a fleet-footed -messenger from Eul Yul arrived with a letter containing -the news that a secret royal edict was being sent -round to the various magistracies in that province, commanding -all Confucianists to gather at night on the second -of the next month (about fifteen days later), each at his -nearest worshiping place in his district, and from thence to -go in a body and kill all Westerners and followers of -Western doctrine, and destroy their houses, churches and -schools. A friend in the magistrate’s office, holding some -petty position, happened to be present when this arrived, -noted the excitement and agitation which the official -evinced on reading it and the care with which it was -guarded, and determined to learn its contents. He contrived -an opportunity to read it unseen, and as some of his -near relatives were Christians, he at once communicated -the terrible news to them. One of the same family, a -young man who was a fleet-footed runner, was instantly -sent to us with a copy of the edict.</p> - -<p>No words can express our state of mind on receiving -the news. Thought flew back to one peaceful little community -after another, which we had so lately visited, all -rejoicing in the beautiful new life, all growing up toward -Christ, like flowers reaching up to the sun, with the light -of a glad hope in their faces, happy, harmless, kindly people, -the aged, the little toddling children, helpless women, -unsuspecting farmers, all consigned to utter destruction. -As for ourselves, we were in one of the worst of Korean -cities, it was impossible to make the slightest movement -without attracting the notice of every one, for we were -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">250</span> -constantly the center of the observation of the whole town. -It would be impossible to make our escape if any one -wished to detain us. To make matters much worse, we -had two young ladies and a child in our party. Probably -little danger threatened us personally, as the governor -was friendly, but our first duty was to send word to the -American minister in Seoul, and it must be done quickly. -To send a dispatch in any Eastern or European language -would be futile, as, if suspicion was aroused, there were -means of interpreting any of them. We at length concluded -to send a Latin message, not to our minister, but -to one of our mission, as less likely to attract attention -either in Hai Ju or Seoul. This was done, and the message -was at once carried to the American legation.</p> - -<p>The news was at first received with incredulity, so -friendly had the attitude of the government always been, -but when it was remembered that recent Boxer disturbances -in China might have suggested a similar course here, -and that there were strong Buddhists high in influence at -the palace who might have caused this strange measure, -and when at the Foreign Office, through admissions and -contradictions, it was made evident that the circulation of -such an edict was not unknown to them, all doubt was -over. Not long after it developed that from similar -sources (that is, friends of Christians or of missionaries) -the news had been carried to missionaries in Kang Wha -and in Pyeng Yang. That it was unadvisedly done, and -speedily repented, was proved by the fact that a few days -later another edict rescinding the first was sent everywhere. -Nevertheless and notwithstanding, I breathed -freely and slept well for the first time since hearing the -bad news, when I found myself on the little Japanese -steamer well started on my way back to Seoul. The supposed -authors of the order were put under arrest, and I -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">251</span> -believe punished, the Korean officials vigorously protesting -that it was all a mistake and sent without the knowledge -of the king or the government.</p> - -<p>These trips to Whang Hai province usually occupied -six or eight weeks of our time, and full of delightful incidents -and experiences as they always were, did not represent -more than a fraction of the work. In the fall of 1900 -the whole New Testament was given to the people. To -celebrate this event a large meeting was held in the Methodist -church, the largest audience hall in Seoul, composed -of as many natives and Christians as could be packed within -its walls. A suitable thanksgiving service was held, -and the board of translators and their native literary -helpers were presented by the American minister with -copies of the book, with very kind remarks on their work. -The board now consisted of Rev. H. G. Appenzeller, Dr. -Scranton, Rev. W. D. Reynolds, Rev. James S. Gale and -Mr. Underwood.</p> - -<p>In addition to the editorship of a weekly religious -newspaper, Bible translation, preparation of tracts and -hymns, city training classes, weekly religious services and -meetings, supervision of schools and language class for -missionaries, Mr. Underwood felt that a special effort -ought to be made for the nobility and gentry, the hardest -people in the country to reach with the gospel. This is -the case, partly because officials who would retain office -must go at regular intervals and offer certain prayers and -sacrifices at royal shrines, partly that the ideas of caste -are so strong that the nobility are unwilling to seat themselves -on the floor in our churches among farmers, peddlers, -coolies, merchants or even scholars, to listen to the -gospel; and in addition, that their family life is grounded -and interwoven on and in the concubine system. All of -them have two or more families, some of them many. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">252</span> -These numerous wives, their parents and progeny would -make life intolerable should the husband put them aside. -His friends and relatives would look upon him as too evil -to live should he neglect to worship the ancestral tablets, -and the spirits of his ancestors themselves would follow -him like harpies, with all sorts of misfortunes and diseases.</p> - -<p>Each man, too, looks forward with great complacency -to being honored in his time as he has honored his dead -parents, and seems to be overwhelmed with something -like terror at the idea of having no one to worship his -memory and offer sacrifices before his tablets, so that -childless men usually adopt sons to keep their memory -green. The ladies of this class, the first wives, are, as I -think I have said before, very closely secluded, and are -never seen except in their own apartments or the anpang -of their kin, whither they are carried in closely covered -chairs.</p> - -<p>In such a state of affairs it is not strange that men -should hesitate to listen to the doctrines of a religion -which would turn their whole social world upside down, -wreck their homes, cast upon them the blackest stigma, -turn them outside the pale of court and official life, rob -them of their income, and rank them with the common -people. Knowing that it was almost impossible to induce -them to attend church, an invitation was therefore issued, -asking a large number of them to come to our house to -talk over religious matters. To our surprise the call was -most heartily responded to, and two large rooms were -crowded with high Korean gentlemen, all of whom came -no doubt from politeness or curiosity.</p> - -<p>There were princes, generals, members of the cabinet, -all men of the highest rank and birth. All listened with -the closest attention, many of them asking thoughtful -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">253</span> -questions, which showed their real interest in what was -said by the missionaries who came to assist Mr. Underwood -in receiving and talking with them. Some asked -for books, and many came repeatedly to talk over these -matters in private. Meetings were held regularly Sunday -afternoons, and a stereopticon exhibition was given, -showing a series of scenes from the life of Christ.</p> - -<p>One result of these meetings was that Mr. Underwood -was approached with the suggestion that he should establish -a Presbyterian state church. We were told that a -large number of officials would prefer (if they were to be -forced into giving up their own religion and joining a foreign -church, as at that time seemed likely) to make it one -of their own choosing, and connected with Americans -rather than Russians. They were, of course, informed -that we could not organize churches in that way, nor baptize -men for state and political purposes. The suggestion -was not official, but if we had been willing to use opportunities -of this sort, the roll-call among the high class of -nominal members might have been greatly swelled. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">254</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Furloughs—Chong Dong Church—Romanists in Whang Hai—Missionaries -to the Rescue—Romanists Annoy and Hinder -the Judge—Results—Interview between Governor and -Priest—The Inspector’s Report—Women’s Work in Hai Ju—Deaths -of Mr. and Mrs. Johnson and Mrs. Miller.</p></blockquote> - -<p>In 1901 we took another furlough, during which we -were brought in touch with American Christians in nearly -every large city in the country, and thus were able to -make the church aware of God’s wonderful dealings in -Korea and to enlighten the public on the needs of this -country. On our return, we missed among the faces of -dear old friends who came to welcome us that of our -work-fellow and beloved brother, Rev. H. G. Appenzeller. -Mr. Appenzeller, the first evangelistic worker of his mission, -had labored with my husband, heart and hand, for -over sixteen years, and they had taken their earliest itinerations -to the country in company. The loss fell heavily -upon both native and foreign community, and seems to -grow, as we feel the need of the enthusiastic and ready -service everywhere. On our return our first attention was -given to our dear Chong Dong (city) church, the members -of which have from the first been marked as energetic, -generous and full of faith. With a membership, as -has been said, of two hundred and nineteen, they carry on -five missions near the city, within a radius of five miles. -These are places where chapels have been built—but they -have also several other missions in districts where services -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">255</span> -are held in private dwellings. The church members conduct -and take charge of all these services. They have -contributed during the past year (1902-1903), reckoned -in gold dollars:</p> - -<table> - <tr> - <td>For their school</td> - <td class="tdr">$75.80</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Church running expenses</td> - <td class="tdr">75.40</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Evangelistic work</td> - <td class="tdr">45.82</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Charity</td> - <td class="tdr">20.66</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Gifts of City Mission Society</td> - <td class="tdr">50.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="i2">Total</td> - <td class="tdr bt">$268.18</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>This total, however, is not a complete report, not including -the gifts of the largest mission, that of Chandari, -a (from a Korean standpoint) prosperous little farming -community outside the city. For the women and girls, -beside Sabbath services and regular prayer meetings, six -weekly Bible classes are held in different neighborhoods, -all but two of which are well attended. There are a number -of these women well fitted for Christian teaching, and -one or another of them has repeatedly gone off on a six-weeks’ -trip, with some of the lady missionaries, asking -nothing more than her bare expenses. They often go -away on evangelistic trips quite at their own instance, -visiting village after village, distributing tracts which they -themselves have bought for the purpose, and teaching the -country women who cannot read.</p> - -<p>Very soon after our return to Korea my husband was -requested by the American minister and the members of -our mission to visit Hai Ju, in the province of Whang Hai, -on a mission of very serious importance. We were sent to -Hai Ju in February, and since the preceding September, it -had come to be a matter of common report that the native -Romanists (of whom there are said to be twenty thousand -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">256</span> -in that province) had, under the lead of the French priests, -been robbing, torturing and blackmailing the poor people -of the province “for money to build churches,” resisting -with arms, maiming, beating and even imprisoning officers -of the law sent to stop them, and establishing a veritable -reign of terror through the whole district; so that the -weaker magistrates dared not lift a finger against any -criminal favored by the priests, or belonging to that -church, and fairly trembled for fear of them, obeying with -the alertness of terror their slightest behest.</p> - -<p>The state of affairs grew so bad at length that the governor -sent a manifesto to Seoul, saying he could no longer -carry on the government of the province in such a state of -insurrection and anarchy. The following is a translation, -made for the Korea <i>Review</i>, of the official copy of a part -of the governor’s complaint:</p> - -<p>“In the counties of Sin-ch’un, Cha-ryung, An-ak, -Chang-yun, Pong-san, Whang-ju, and Su-heung, disturbances -created by the Roman Catholics are many in number, -and petitions and complaints are coming in from all -quarters.</p> - -<p>“In some cases it is a question of building churches and -collecting funds from the villages about. If any refuse to -pay, they are bound and beaten and rendered helpless. -When certain ones, in answer to petition, have been -ordered arrested, the police have been mobbed and the officers -of the law have been unable to resist it. While investigating -a case on behalf of the people, I sent police to -arrest Catholics in Cha-ryung. They raised a band of followers, -beat off the police, arrested them, and dismissed -them with orders not to return. Then I sent a secretary -to remonstrate with them. At that the Sin-ch’un Catholics, -a score or more of them, armed with guns, arrested -the secretary, insulted him, etc.” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">257</span></p> - -<p>One of the priests, who is apparently most influential -and has been most notorious, whose Korean name is Hong, -and who is known among foreigners as Father Wilhelm, -told my husband that the native Romanists were not to be -blamed for all this, for they had only obeyed his orders. -Mr. Underwood had had a slight acquaintance with this -priest for some years, meeting him occasionally and -knowing little of his life, but supposing he was doing an -earnest if mistaken work of self-sacrifice, he was unable to -believe that the priest was cognizant of all that was being -done by his followers, until he had both written and had -a personal interview with him, when he was sorrowfully -forced to see that rumor had not misrepresented his conduct.</p> - -<p>This sad condition of things might have gone on, no one -knows how long, but some of the people so robbed and tortured -were Presbyterian Christians, and there is something -about Protestant Christianity that resists oppression -and favors a growth of sturdy independence and a love of -freedom and fair play. One of these men was a particularly -determined fellow who had been persistently seeking -justice ever since, and would not be discouraged or -daunted. He first went to the missionaries, who told him -to take the matter to the Korean courts, but as the provincial -courts were quite helpless against such a giant evil, -he went up to the capital. The officials at the capital, -probably in awe of the French, dared not interfere. He -and his companion, another sturdy farmer like himself, -went from one missionary to another in Seoul, all of whom -put them off, disliking to take up native quarrels, and on -principle opposed to using influence with Korean officials, -and none of them realizing to what threatening dimensions -the affair had grown.</p> - -<p>These poor men were not eloquent, they could only -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">258</span> -tell a plain, simple story, but they knew that they and -thousands of others were deeply wronged and were able -to do one thing well, namely, to persist. Persist they did -with unwearied resolution.</p> - -<p>Failing to obtain any help or satisfaction, they at length -decided to go directly to the French legation and seek -justice and relief there. They were received, attentively -heard, carefully questioned, given a promise of redress, -and sent politely away. They waited long and patiently, -but no redress came, nor any sign of it. Again and again -they sought the fulfilment of the promises of the representative -of France, only to be put off repeatedly with fair -words and indefinite assurances.</p> - -<p>So at length they published their whole story in the -leading Korean newspaper in Seoul. Then the French -minister did indeed begin to act. He immediately requested -the Korean Foreign Office to have the men beaten -and imprisoned, <i>on the ground that conduct like theirs -had caused the Boxer trouble in China</i>.</p> - -<p>When affairs came to this crisis, the Protestant missionaries -awoke to the situation. Rev. Mr. Gale and Mr. -Underwood went to the office of Foreign Affairs and pled -for the men, and also laid the matter before the American -minister, Dr. Allen. He gave it his careful attention and -succeeded in having a commission appointed by the Korean -government to go to Hai Ju and investigate the -charges. Dr. Moffett, of Pyeng Yang, and Mr. Underwood -were also requested to be present and attend the -trials. From the beginning to the end of this attempt to -bring the truth to light, the French priests by every art in -their power tried to block and delay the proceedings of the -judge, to annoy and overawe him in Hai Ju, and (we were -informed) by letters, special messengers and telegrams, -to limit his power, hinder his plans, and undermine him in -Seoul. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">259</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="CARRIERS_WITH_JIKAYS" src="images/p258a.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CARRIERS WITH JIKAYS. <a href="#Page_184">PAGE 184</a></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img id="WOMAN_WITH_BUNDLE_OF_WASHING_ON_HER_HEAD" src="images/p258b.jpg" -alt="" /> -<p class="caption">WOMAN WITH BUNDLE OF WASHING ON HER HEAD. <a href="#Page_246">PAGE 246</a></p></div> - -<p>He was a sturdy, clear-headed, determined man, who -had had long intercourse with Europeans in his post in the -Foreign Office, and held his own with much self-possession -and <i>sang-froid</i>. It was said of him that he carried on -the trials more fairly and more in accordance with equity -than had ever been seen before in Korea.</p> - -<p>The priests arrested and tortured a policeman who had -been sent to bring some of the accused to the court, -hanging him by his wrists. They used all the influence -they possessed in Seoul, through the French, to force the -Korean government to order the commission to yield to -their demands for the release of prisoners already in the -hands of the law, and for the remittance of punishment as -they should dictate.</p> - -<p>They induced the commissioner to promise that he -would not try to arrest any one for a week, on the solemn -assurance that they would themselves bring all the accused -to court, and then, although they had two of the -most notorious malefactors in their house for several days -before the week expired, they allowed them to escape.</p> - -<p>They forced themselves into the commissioner’s presence -and with bluff and reiterated demands wearied him -into sending his resignation to Seoul, which, however, the -king refused to accept.</p> - -<p>“Father Wilhelm’s” church is in a valley about ten miles -from Hai Ju, entirely surrounded by high hills. The entrance -to the valley at that time was guarded by sentinels, -and the points of vantage on the hill tops were occupied -in the same way. When any one is seen approaching, a -signal is given, and the people (for the village is full of -fugitives from justice) flee into the church, which it will -be seen serves the triple purpose of a court with torture -chamber, a citadel, and a place of worship.</p> - -<p>When police were sent there with warrants of arrest for -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">260</span> -some of the worst miscreants, Father Wilhelm met them -at the door with a revolver, demanding what they wanted. -When told, he requested to see the warrants, denied that -any such persons were there, would not allow them to -enter, nor would he return the warrants, but with threats -bade them begone. On more than one occasion posses of -armed men were sent by him to rescue criminals who had -been seized.</p> - -<p>The cruelest forms of torture, such as are used only by -Korean officials in cases of murder and treason, were used -by the priests in their churches to force poor peasants to -give over their money or the deeds of their houses and -farms. Mr. Underwood and Dr. Moffett spent some -weeks in Hai Ju, carefully studying these matters and in -close attendance at the trials. In addition to the above -facts they discovered that this was not a persecution -waged upon Protestants by Catholics, but a system of -blackmail laid on the whole community, and that the number -of complaints brought in by non-Christian natives -were, compared to those from Christians, as twenty to one. -Again, that the French priests were (in the present instance, -at least) demanding, as in China, a right to sit with -a judge in a court of justice and modify sentences. We -learned further that the people were tormented to the -verge of insurrection, and had planned to rise on a certain -day, when the news that a commission had been appointed, -and that the missionaries had come down to see -fair play at the investigations, calmed and decided them to -await further developments.</p> - -<p>The results of the trials were very unsatisfactory. With -the small force of men at his command, with the priests -foiling every effort to make arrests, few men were apprehended. -Those who were brought to trial, by their own -admissions and self-contradictions, and by the consistent -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">261</span> -and overwhelming testimony of many witnesses, were all -proved guilty of the charges laid against them. The -priests, and by far the majority of the miscreants, including -the ringleaders, who could not be caught, went scot -free. The commissioner made a report to the Korean government, -asking for the deportation of the two priests, -Wilhelm and Le Gac, which the Korean government did -not ask, but which it would have been thought should -hardly have been necessary. Were not the Koreans long -suffering to a remarkable degree, as well as a feeble -power, they would long since have risen and cast out all -foreigners from their desecrated shores. In the light of -what we have seen and heard here, the cause of the Boxer -troubles in China is not far to seek. Thus is national sentiment -aroused against us; for long persistence in conduct -similar to this was foreign blood spilled like water there, -and for such reasons are the gates of Thibet barred to the -gospel.</p> - -<p>The following official report of the interview between -the priest and the governor of Whang Hai province, -in the presence of the inspector sent by the king, will show -what a state of affairs existed.</p> - -<p>“Translation of the official report of the interview held -between the governor of Whang Hai Do and Father Wilhelm, -in the presence of the Inspector Yi Eung Ik. Eighth -day 2d Moon Koang Mu.</p> - -<p>“In the seventh year of Quang Mo in the second moon -and eighth day, the governor of Whang Hai Do, Yi Yung -Chick, and the French teacher, Hong Sok Ku (Mons. -Wilhelm), conferred. Hong Sok Ku said, ‘The controversy -between the governor and myself arose from the -governor’s not appeasing my wrath by arresting Mr. Pak -Chang Mou of Whang Ju, and punishing him. This Pak, -at night after dark, had thrown stones at the church of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">262</span> -Han Sinpu (a native Korean priest), and I therefore had -spoken to the local magistrate of Whang Ju and asked to -have him arrested and imprisoned, but Pak, through his -local influence, had returned undisturbed to his home, and -as there seemed no other means of having him punished, I -wrote a letter to the governor, asking that he would have -Pak brought up to the provincial town of Hai Ju and -severely punished. The governor replied <i>that he could -not have the people of local magistracies brought up to -Hai Ju</i>, and I therefore supposed that the governor had -no power to arrest the people of outside local magistracies, -and when I learned to my surprise that there was an order -for the arrest of some of the Christians (Romanist) of -Shinampo by the governor, feeling sure that it was a false -order, I released by force all those whom the police were -arresting, and at once ordered all my Christians, if any -one came out to arrest them again, to resist it utterly.’”</p> - -<p>The governor replied: “As for the business of Pak of -Whang Ju, since he had been already arrested and imprisoned -in Whang Ju, and there was therefore no reason -why he should be brought up to Hai Ju, I did not do so as -you had asked, and as for my reply in my former letter, -that I could not arrest him, it was in accordance with the -<i>Chibang Cheido</i> (Book of Laws) in regard to local and -provincial jurisdiction, and the reason why, <i>after my people -have appealed</i>, I can order them arrested to try the -case, is in accordance with the <i>Chaipan Chang Chung</i>, -or book of rules for courts of justice, and if you had any -doubts about the earlier or later affair, while it would not -have been out of the way to have asked a question, is it -right with your followers to gather a crowd and organize -a band to arrest and carry off policemen, to release and -set free those who have broken the laws, and to order -your followers to resist authority, so making your people -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">263</span> -fall into sin, and making it impossible for the appointed -authorities to administer justice?</p> - -<p>“Desirous of instructing these ignorant people, I sent -one of the Chusas (high official next to the governor) attached -to this governorship, but you sent out a company -of men with firearms, twelve miles, and after dark seized -and carried off this official. A Chusa is a national government -officer, military arms are outrageous things; leaning -upon what authority did you do such things as these, and -by whose authority do you arrest and carry off Koreans -and try to administer justice?”</p> - -<p>Mons. Wilhelm replied: “I myself know that these -things are not right, and did them purposely. As far as -the book <i>Chaipan Chang Chung</i> is concerned, I know -nothing about it, but I simply relied upon the previous -letter which you had sent. I desired to understand the -matter, and sent you another letter, and because you sent -my letter back to me I still feel very angry.”</p> - -<p>The governor replied: “But your saying that you only -recognized my first letter shows you simply know one -thing and cannot know two; as for your letter and my returning -it without an answer, it was because, after the arrest -of my Chusa, I had sent by special messenger a letter -to you, and you had given no answer and sent the man -back emptyhanded, I was indignant. As I had no reply -to my letter to you in regard to the Chang Yung affair, -why should I only answer letters? Because I thought it -would be wrong for me to keep your letter that I did not -answer, I returned it.”</p> - -<p>Father Wilhelm replied: “Because in the governor’s -last letter on the envelope he had written <i>Saham</i> I did not -answer the letter.” <i>Saham</i> is written outside of letters -which are replies from one slightly superior in rank.</p> - -<p>The governor replied: “Is it right to allow questions to -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">264</span> -go unanswered; is it because you have nothing to say that -you fail to answer all these questions?”</p> - -<p>Father Wilhelm replied: “When Pak Chang Mou’s -wrong-doings had not yet been punished, is it right that -he should have been made one of the tax collectors? -When you have arrested and brought him to Hai Ju and -severely punished him, then only will my wrath be appeased.”</p> - -<p>The governor then said: “In the eighth moon of last -year when I went to Whang Ju, I looked carefully into -this affair of Pak’s. <i>Although it was stated that he had -thrown stones, there was no sure proof, and yet he had -been locked up in the local jail and had been punished, -during the investigation</i>, how, then, can you say that he -has gone unpunished? How can you claim that giving -him a petty office several months later is an injustice? -Then, too, you took this man to your church and there -beat him, and still claim that your wrath has not been appeased. -Would you have me arrest him, bring him here -and make him and the complainants face each other?”</p> - -<p>Père Wilhelm answered: “Although I did have him -beaten with ten strokes, it was not a punishment for his -main crime, but because when his magistrate sent Pak to -confess his sins he was on the contrary impudent, and -therefore I punished him, but his former offence still existed.”</p> - -<p>The governor replied: “When you are not a Korean -official, is it right that you should arrest and beat Koreans?”</p> - -<p>Father Wilhelm said: “It is because if I did not beat -them I could not hold my position as superior that I do it.”</p> - -<p>The governor answered: “You, a private citizen, arresting -and beating Koreans and doing wrong, and your written -orders to your people, have caused them to break the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">265</span> -laws in eight different ways. They resist the authority of -the government, beat the underlings, and refuse to pay -their taxes.</p> - -<p>“In addition, at their churches and meeting places they -establish courts of justice.</p> - -<p>“Still further, without order, in companies they rush -into the presence of magistrates to terrify them.</p> - -<p>“Still again, of their own accord they arrest, beat and -imprison the people.</p> - -<p>“Again, calling it money for the building of churches, -they extort contributions by force from the people.</p> - -<p>“Furthermore, at their own desire they cut down trees -used for Korean spirit worship, they organize bands to -forcibly bury the dead and move graves; and still further, -they force people, who have no desire to do so, to enter -their church.”</p> - -<p>Father Wilhelm replied: “I will with great care stop -these eight offences and will not allow them to do as before; -have no fear.”</p> - -<p>Thus ends the report of this unique interview between -the governor of one of the most populous provinces of -Korea and the French missionary. It is to be regretted, -however, that his ready promise in regard to nearly all the -eight offenses was repeatedly broken within a very short -time after it was made. I will add one or two other transcriptions -from the official documents, which came directly -from the commissioner’s office to our hands, and which -translations appeared in the Korea <i>Review</i>, March, 1903. -The first report of the imperial inspector to the government:</p> - -<p>“I have looked carefully into the disturbances among -the people in the different counties, and the various -crimes up to this date noted in the public records are only -one or two in hundreds. Outside of two or three counties, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">266</span> -all the magistrates have been under this oppression, and -with folded hands, are unable to stir. The poor helpless -people sit waiting for doom to overtake them. Receiving -imperial orders to look into the matter, I have undertaken -the task, and daily crowds with petitions fill the -court. There are no words to express the sights one sees, -the stories one hears. Depending on the influence of foreigners -(French), the Catholics’ issuing of orders to arrest -is of daily occurrence; their runners are fiercer than -leopards, and the torture they inflict is that reserved -for only thieves and robbers; life is ground out of the -people, goods and livelihood are gone. Unless this kind -of thing is put down with strong hand, thousands of lives -will be lost in the end.</p> - -<p>“A French priest by the name of Wilhelm, living in -Chang-ke-dong in Sin-ch-un, a retired spot among the -hills, has gathered about him a mob of lawless people. -Their houses number several hundred. Many of them -carry foreign guns, so that country people are afraid, and -dare not take action. A number of those already arrested -have been set free by this priest. Most of those who have -slipped the net have escaped there, and now form a band -of robbers. There is no knowing where trouble will next -arise, and it is a time of special anxiety. Those who -assemble there at the ‘call of the whistle’ (bandit) are -outlaws, and must be arrested. They may, however, make -use of dangerous weapons, so we cannot do otherwise -than be prepared for them. This is my report. Look carefully -into it. Send word to the office of generals. Wire -me permission to use soldiers, and as occasion offers lend -me a helping hand.”</p> - -<p>While this painful business was on, and my husband -was daily attending the trials and listening to the harrowing -tales of the poor, tortured and robbed people, and seeing -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">267</span> -heartrending evidences of the cruelties inflicted upon -them, I was holding meetings with the Christian women -who came every morning to study the Bible. One visit -only was made to a small village a short distance outside -the city, where there were quite a number of Christian -families.</p> - -<p>All the Christian women quickly assembled at the house -of my hostess, a wholesome farmer’s wife, who came out -to the road to welcome me, took both my hands in hers -with a long gentle pressure, and a look of gladness as -bright as if I had been a radiant angel from heaven, or a -returned apostle. Her small rooms were soon filled with -Christians and others, who listened while we held a service -and talked of the things concerning the kingdom.</p> - -<p>Then they, with bounteous hospitality, brought in a -store of the best their homes contained of dainties. They -feasted my two native companions and myself and all the -visitors, both Christians and mere sightseers, and even my -chair coolies were given as much as they could eat, which -is no mean amount.</p> - -<p>One woman said that her eldest son had just returned -from Sorai and was urging his father to sell his good -farm and home and move there with his family, so that he -and his brothers might attend that school and church and -learn more about God and his will.</p> - -<p>The work in this hamlet all started through the instrumentality -of a young girl in Hai Ju, not seventeen -years old, who, having formerly lived here, after her marriage -into a Christian household in the city, and after her -conversion, often returned to her old home and begged her -family to believe and accept Christ.</p> - -<p>Though they scoffed and reviled at first, after a while -they began to listen, and finally one, then another, yielded -their hearts. After the manner of Korean Christians, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">268</span> -they “passed on the word,” and so at length seven families -were trusting Christ.</p> - -<p>After seven weeks in Hai Ju we returned to Seoul, -having done all that was possible in the matters we had -been sent there to look after, and having made it plain that -Americans would not stand by and see the natives persecuted -and wronged without a strong protest; for while we -try not to interfere between them and their rulers (and this -is at times extremely difficult), we do not feel the same -obligation in the case of French priests. Our hope now is -that these outrages will henceforth be somewhat restricted -and that Protestants will at least remain unmolested, as -the mere advertisement and bringing to the light of the -evil would do much to prevent its repetition, the children -of darkness having an ancient dislike of the light.</p> - -<p>Before we returned from Hai Ju we learned of the -death by smallpox of our dear brother, Mr. W. V. Johnson, -who had arrived early in February of that year, his -consecrated young wife having died on the way to the -field, in Kobe, Japan.</p> - -<p>We all felt the sweet devoted spirit of the earnest young -brother, and knew that these two valuable lives were not -given in vain, but that God has accepted their sacrifice -as if they had done all they planned, and has chosen to -call them to reward a little earlier, because they will better -so fulfil his purpose, for, through and in them. Again, -only a few months later, we were all called to part with -a dear sister, Mrs. F. S. Miller, whose loving sympathy -and patient endurance of sickness and pain had endeared -her to missionaries and native Christians alike. Not a -month before her own death, her hands prepared the -casket for the cold little form of one of the dear little missionary -babies, of whom so many are now in heaven. And -so, as was said at the time of her release, “Korea seems a -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">269</span> -gate to heaven.” Sure it is good to go from service to the -vision of the King.</p> - -<p>This little chain of reminiscences is now at an end. Its -object has simply been to interest Christian people in this -most interesting country, and to show what God is working -here.</p> - -<p>It has been necessarily limited, mainly to the experience -of one pair of missionaries, because the writer has neither -the knowledge nor the liberty to speak freely of the lives -and work of all, and neither the ability nor the space to -write a complete history of mission work in Korea. It is -hoped that although so restricted, as to be a mere glimpse -of a small fraction of what is being done, it will serve to -make plain what grand opportunities are theirs (<i>at -present</i>) who would lead a nation out of bondage into -liberty, the only liberty worth calling the name, or that -sinful mortals can use, “the liberty of Christ.”</p> - -<p>Korea, lying as she does so close to China (whose -future is fraught with such mighty possibilities of good -or evil to the whole world), with such close affinities and -wide sympathies for that people, is, we hope, to be a -polished shaft in God’s quiver in conquering that great -nation for his kingdom. But whatever his eternal purpose -may be, there is no doubt as to our present privilege and -“power to the last particle is duty.”</p> - -<p>If in these pages you have seen much that leads you to -think the land is a difficult one in which to live, if you -have read of political unrest, bad government, riots, robbers -and plagues; if you have learned that missionaries -have died of typhus fever, smallpox, dysentery and other -violent forms of disease, this will only serve to remind you -that the more valuable the prize to be won, the greater the -difficulty and cost. If you desire to share in the joy of this -great harvest, and are worthy, you will fear no danger, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">270</span> -shrink from no obstacles, either for yourselves or for your -loved ones, whom you are asked to give to the work.</p> - -<p>God placed an angel with a flaming sword which turned -every way at the gate of paradise. Is the kingdom still -thus guarded? Must we all who would enter follow him -who was made perfect through suffering? What was our -Lord’s meaning when he said, “The kingdom of heaven -suffereth violence, <i>and the violent take it by force</i>.” Some -of us are ready to pray that God would place another such -flaming sword at the gate of our mission fields, so that no -man or woman who could or would not brave such baptism -of fire should enter. There is no more place on the -mission field for the fearful and unbelieving than in -heaven itself. Like Gideon’s army, let the applicants be reduced -till only the resolute, the consecrated, those who believe -in God, the people and themselves, are accepted for -this mighty privilege, this high calling.</p> - -<p>Let it only be remembered by all who would enter the -Lord’s army to wrest the kingdom of heaven from the -rulers of darkness, that he, whose we are, and whom we -serve, he who never faltered on the thorny road that led to -Calvary, who trod the wine press alone, who came with -dyed garments through the conflict to victory, has bidden -those who profess to love him, as one of his last commands, -thrice repeated, feed his sheep.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Lovest thou me? Feed my sheep.”<br /></span> -<span class="i0">“Lovest thou me? Feed my sheep.”<br /></span> -<span class="i0">“Lovest thou me? Feed my lambs.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<h3>I.</h3> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Oh, never swear thou lovest me,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Who lovest not my sheep;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">For he who would my servant be<br /></span> -<span class="i2">My treasured flock will keep.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">271</span></p> - -<h3>II.</h3> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Oh, never vow thou lovest me,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">As follower leal and true,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Who shrinkest in my paths to be,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Or fearest my will to do.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<h3>III.</h3> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Oh, never weep thou lovest me,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">My lambs who feedest not;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Who wouldst my crowning glory see,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">But hast the cross forgot?<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<h3>IV.</h3> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Nay, if thou lovest, feed my sheep,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">On desert moors astray;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">The charge I gave thee surely keep,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Until the final day.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<h3>V.</h3> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Yea, if thou lovest me, thy Lord,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">My feeble lambs feed thou;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">They wander o’er the world abroad,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Many lie fainting now.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<h3>VI.</h3> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Then never swear thou lovest me,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Who loves not these of mine;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Who would my true disciple be,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Shall prove his love divine.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">272</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Historical Review—Korean Characteristics—Football between -Japan, China and Russia—Ill-advised Movements—Unrest and -Excitement—Korea Allied to Japan—Japanese in Korea—Po -an Whai—Kaiwha—Railroad Extension—Japanese Protectorate—Petition -to President Roosevelt—Removal of American -Legation—Education in Korea—Righteous Army—True Civilization.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Before making a brief review of events which have -taken place during the five years that have elapsed since -the previous chapters were written, let us look a little -further at the character of the Korean people so that -we may understand them perhaps somewhat better and -judge them a little more fairly as we scan their actions -in reference to the conditions that follow.<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">5</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">5</a> -I have to thank Mr. Homer B. Hulbert for many of these facts and -dates, having refreshed my memory by frequent reference to his “History -of Korea” and “The Passing of Korea.”</p></div> - -<p>Although through the influence of their progressive -Queen the country had been opened to foreigners in -1882, and although missionaries had been there since -1884, the impression made upon the people as a whole -was very slight, owing to the lack of newspapers and -other means of appeal to the public, and though in -the capital a few progressionists had begun to feel the -need of reform, the nation as such was still in a kind -of stupor under the baleful charm of the example of -China, and the influence of her classics and her civilization. -Shut up for long centuries in complete seclusion—even -Japan had been open twenty years to the stimulating -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">273</span> -influences of the civilization of the West—still Korea in -her belated “Morning Calm” slept on; while Japan had -been up and catching her worms with the “Rising Sun,” -and the first rude shock which startled her from this -slumber and made her begin to look about was the -defeat of China by her little neighbor.</p> - -<p>Coincidentally with the rapid march of political events, -the Gospel was making advances with constantly increasing -momentum and where the Spirit of the Lord -is there is liberty of thought and action, and to-day, -stung into life by the sharp lash of adversity, Korea is -awake, wide awake, to sleep no more, for her Macbeth -has effectually murdered sleep.</p> - -<p>The Koreans have been frequently spoken and written -of as listless, dull, stupid, lazy, an inferior race; but I -submit this has been said mainly by travellers who -did not know them, or by those who were their -enemies and had an object in making the world think -them worthless, or by those who had contented themselves -with looking merely on the surface and had not -studied them with a wish to know them at their best. -There is a certain excuse for these views, if one observes -only the rough coolies in the ports or the idle worthless -“boulevardiers” who lounge about the streets of Seoul, -or live by sponging on the generosity of some relative -better off than themselves. But such a class can be found -almost anywhere, even among the most advanced -European nations.</p> - -<p>To the writer it seems that there is a close parallel -between the Irishman and the Korean. Both are happy-go-lucky, -improvident, impulsive, warm-hearted, hospitable, -generous. Take either in the midst of his -native bogs, untutored, without incentive—he is thoughtless, -careless, dirty; drinking, smoking and gambling -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">274</span> -away his time with apparently little ambition for anything -better. Remove this same man, be he Irishman -of Great Britain, or Irishman of the East—Korea—place -him in a stimulating environment, educate him, -instil the principles of Protestant Christianity, give him -a chance to make a good living, and a certainty that he -may keep his own earnings, and you will not find a better -citizen, a more brilliant scholar, a finer Christian. Look -at the men of North Ireland and tell me if this is not -so? Look at the Christian Korean, self-supporting, independent, -sober, faithful, industrious, eager to study. -Hear the testimony of the missionaries of all denominations.</p> - -<p>Hear the testimony even of the foreign mining companies, -who avow the Koreans are the best workmen -of any nationality they have employed.</p> - -<p>Hear the testimony of the American planters in -Hawaii, who say that the Koreans are the best workmen, -the most sober, well-behaved, cleanly, domestic, peaceful -and thrifty they have ever used, far superior to the -Japanese, who are quarrelsome and unstable—or even the -Chinese.</p> - -<p>Witness the young Koreans who have graduated from -our American colleges and medical schools side by side -with Americans, often carrying away the honors.</p> - -<p>Let us keep these facts in mind and remember that -if Korea has been caught in the toils and has allowed -her country to be usurped, she was caught napping. -The whole nation was still in the bogs, and twenty-five -years behind the rest of the world, in a time when a -thousand years is as one day and one day as a thousand -years. When China, the Titan, found herself helpless in -the hands of the new régime, what could be expected -of little Korea when she suddenly awoke to find herself -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">275</span> -shut in a trap with a foreign army in her capital and -foreign guns at her palace gates?</p> - -<p>The most brilliant speaker at the great international -conference in Tokio two years ago was unanimously by -Japanese newspapers conceded to be a Korean, and an -American told the writer that the grandest sermon he -had ever listened to—and he had heard John Hall and -the great Western divines—was preached in Korea by -another Korean. The writer also recalls at this moment -still two others who are capable of carrying any audience -along enraptured, and whom she would not hesitate to -rank with the best, most inspiring public speakers she -has ever listened to.</p> - -<p>We know many Koreans who have been given opportunity, -environment, advantage, who have ability, energy, -initiative and resource equal to that of the foremost -Americans and Europeans. They are not, perhaps, <i>par -excellence</i>, fighters like the Japanese or merchants like -the Chinese. They have not the volatility and headlong -impulsiveness of the one nor the stolid conservatism of -the other, but they are the equals if not the superiors of -either. Which of the three evolved an alphabet and a -constitutional form of government?</p> - -<p>This is the conscientious opinion of one who has -known them for twenty years, closely, in every-day contact, -through all sorts of circumstances, in city and -country, and it is an opinion almost the opposite of that -which was formed during the first years of acquaintance -with them. It is the result of the developments of character -seen in individuals and the nation. That they are -friendly, hospitable, long-suffering, patient, any one who -studies them without prejudice for a short time will -admit, but those of us who know them best know that -they have brilliant gifts and a high grade of intellectuality. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">276</span> -The old simile of the rough diamond is a good -one to apply to Koreans who seem perhaps worthless -stones to the ignorant careless observer, but, when -polished, they shine as brilliant jewels for the Redeemer’s -crown.</p> - -<p>Considerable space has been given to this question of -Korean ability because much has been made of the other -side, as an excuse for what might be thought otherwise -inexcusable, and because it is right that the public should -know they are not unworthy of its sympathy and interest. -Nor should they be called cowardly because -taken unaware by the rapid succession of cataclysmic -political events which have whirled them along during -the last few years. The “Morning Calm” is forever -gone.</p> - -<p>Korea has for many years been in a diplomatic way a -sort of football between Japan, China and Russia, and -in 1903 affairs were rapidly culminating toward the -Russo-Japanese war. Yi Yong Ik, the Korean prime -minister, who had then lately returned from Port -Arthur and was zealously pro-Russian, like most of the -court and officials, now began a series of attacks on -Japanese interests.</p> - -<p>Koreans had always regarded their neighbors on the -East with the distrust which their not infrequent invasions -warranted, and they believed that Russia, while -she might invade, would not seek to Russianize; while -she might plunder, would not colonize, or interfere at -least more than incidentally or occasionally with personal -right or private concerns as the others were almost -certain to do.</p> - -<p>Whenever trouble seemed brewing between Japan and -other powers, whatever may have been the reason, the -Korean government at least almost invariably went with -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">277</span> -the other side, and at this time Korea and her royal -family counted a long score of injuries and wrongs -from Japan.</p> - -<p>The murder of their Queen, the cutting of the top-knots, -and the hard and burdensome laws enacted at that -time, the indignities the Emperor had suffered in practical -confinement and the insults heaped upon the dead -Queen could not be forgotten. On the other hand -Russia had sheltered and protected the King on his escape, -had favored his complete freedom of action even -while he resided in her Legation, and when patriotic -Koreans had complained that Russian influence was becoming -too great, had withdrawn all the causes of complaint, -removed her bank, and the obnoxious officials, -favored the departure of the King to his own palace and -left everything in the hands of the Koreans.</p> - -<p>Such conduct, whatever its motive, could not but -excite gratitude, and add to this the degree of certitude -with which nearly the whole East awaited the speedy -defeat of the Japanese by mighty, all-powerful Russia, -it is not hard to see why the Korean government were -so strongly pro-Russian.</p> - -<p>This, then, by way of partial explanation of the attitude -of Yi Yong Ik and the Korean court and government -and in fact of a great many of the Korean people, -though just here it may be said that multitudes of the -Koreans with all the Americans and Europeans, except -perhaps the French, were pro-Japanese, believing that -they would prove the saviors of Korea from all-absorbing -Russia, that reform and progress, good government and -order would follow in their train, and warm were our -good wishes and hearty the delight with which we witnessed -Japanese successes at the opening of the war.</p> - -<p>This attitude of the Korean government continued -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">278</span> -without change from the beginning to the end of the -war, and now was the time when they might venture -to show their real feeling and attempt some reprisals -upon Japan.</p> - -<p>First of all, then, the minister took the ill-advised -measure of forbidding the use of the notes of the -Japanese bank in Seoul, causing a run which came very -near wrecking it. As the Japanese were in a position -to retaliate, this resulted in apologies and withdrawals by -the native government, but left a debt uncancelled for -the Japanese to remember by and by.</p> - -<p>The Russians were next given a concession to cut -timber along the Yalu and soon after, on their asking -the privilege of the use of the port of Yengampo in -using this concession, it was granted.</p> - -<p>As is well known, Japan and the foreign powers now -urged the opening of this port to all foreign trade, -Russia opposing, and the Korean government steadily -refused. When, in addition, they soon after refused -also to open Wi Ju in accordance with the objections of -Russia, it became quite evident that war alone would -ever make Russia retire from Korean soil.</p> - -<p>In October, Japanese merchants in Korea began calling -in outstanding moneys and from this time on the -Koreans were in daily, hourly suspense, awaiting the -war which could bring, in any event, nothing but disaster -and loss, the only thing which they might hope for, -being a degree less of distress, humiliation and misery, -in one case than the other. Their country was to be -the spoil of war, as well as its probable seat, and -devastation, rapine and bloodshed loomed darkly before -them. The action of the Korean pawnbrokers, refusing -to lend money at this time, added to the general distress, -for many of the poor are obliged to pawn some -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">279</span> -of their belongings in the fall, in order to provide fuel -and clothing for the winter, and it was now feared that -an uprising against all foreigners would take place, so -great was the excitement and discontent. Guards were -called to the different Legations to protect their countrymen, -and missionaries and others were warned to -come in from the country. “There was a great deal of -disaffection among the poorly paid Korean troops in -Seoul. The Peddlers’ Guild were threatening and -capable of any excess and the unfriendly attitude of -Yi Yong Ik toward western foreigners except French -and Russians was quite sufficient reason for these precautionary -measures.”<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">6</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">6</a> -Hulbert’s “History of Korea.”</p></div> - -<p>It was at this time that an American vessel was sent -to a northern port with a message from the Legation to -the missionaries to come to Seoul, but while a few, for -various very good reasons, did this, most of these devoted -men and women decided to remain and brave what -war might bring in order to encourage, help and comfort -the native Christians.</p> - -<p>The same unrest and excitement which were evident -in Seoul, were felt in the country and a serious movement -began in two southern provinces where it was -reported that a formidable insurrection was brewing. -Reports came from the north as well of the banding together -of the disaffected, and many wealthy natives in -Seoul began removing their valuables and families to -the country.</p> - -<p>And now the distraught and corrupt government took -another step at the bidding of Russia, and quite in keeping -with the traditions of the East and the self-defensive, -evasive diplomacy of the weak. They announced a -neutrality which seemed from subsequent developments -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">280</span> -to have been a mere pretense in order to keep Japan -out. While this neutrality was being insisted upon the -Japanese announced the arrest of Koreans at different -times, said to be carrying messages from the Korean -Emperor and his government to Russia, asking for aid -in the form of troops and ammunition of war. This is -not at all unlikely, yet such are the dark ways and devious -devices of the East, that it would have been quite as -possible for those who wished to make an excuse to -prove that the neutrality was a mere pretense, to have -made it, if necessary. There is nothing more certain, -however, than that at that time the Korean government -was at heart wholly pro-Russian, of whatever overt acts -she may or may not have been guilty in breaking her -neutrality. Whatever were the facts, a most laudable -excuse for the direct invasion of her neighbors’ soil was -now presented to Japan.</p> - -<p>The beginning of 1904 was marked by the making of -Japanese military stations every fifteen miles between -Fusan and Seoul and the sending of a well-known -Japanese general to Seoul as military attaché to the -Japanese Legation. Notices were posted in the city -assuring Koreans that their property and personal -rights would be respected, promising immediate justice -if any complaint were made, and from this time on -Chemulpo harbor was blocked. Korean students had -previously been recalled from Japan and now the -Japanese began rapidly landing troops in two southern -ports of Korea. After the battle of Chemulpo, which -soon took place, the Japanese landed all their troops -further north and work was rapidly pushed on the Seoul-Fusan -railway and also begun on the road to Wi Ju.</p> - -<p>On February 23d a protocol was signed by Japan and -Korea, by virtue of which Korea practically allied herself -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">281</span> -with Japan. She granted the latter the right to use -her territory as a road to Manchuria and engaged to -give them every possible facility for prosecuting the -war. On the other hand, Japan guaranteed the independence -of Korea and the safety of her imperial -family. It was, of course, on Korea’s side a case of -necessity, though many Koreans really accepted the -Japanese as their friends and believed they would preserve -their independence. However, willy-nilly, there -was nothing to do under the circumstances but to acquiesce -for the time being, though the government and -court were still assured that Russia would undoubtedly -be the ultimate victor and the Russians were continually -making use of corrupt Korean officials who served only -to complicate affairs with Japan.</p> - -<p>It is more than doubtful whether this protocol, backed -by arms, wrung out of the unwilling Koreans, was ever -worth the paper on which it was written, even to keep up -appearances to a people so unsophisticated at that time -as the Koreans. The Japanese were ready at almost any -moment during the war to enforce it and punish its -violation, and the native government were very likely -quite as ready to avail themselves of every opportunity -which might offer to break it openly, could either Russia -or China have been depended on to assist. But let us -not forget that these were the acts of a corrupt government -and not of the people, and that their sprightly -neighbor had long odds, thanks to the almost forcible -opening of their country thirty years earlier.</p> - -<p>Mr. Hulbert says, “The Japanese handled the situation -in Korea with great circumspection,” which they -certainly did. The expected punishment did not fall on -the pro-Russian officials. The perturbation of the court -was quieted and Marquis Ito was sent with friendly -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">282</span> -messages to the Emperor. The northern ports of Wi Ju -and Yonganpo were opened and soon Yi Yong Ik who -was a large factor in the conspiracies against Japan -was invited to visit that country. The Japanese soldiers -were remarkably orderly and well behaved, a great contrast -in this respect to the Cossacks and Russian guard -who had been at the Legation, who conducted themselves -most outrageously, so that they won the hate and fear -of the whole native community, and the disgust and -horror of all western foreigners.</p> - -<p>The Japanese soldiers, we are told by Mr. Hulbert, -all belong to the upper middle classes. “No low class -man can stand in the ranks,” and this being the fact, -the wide difference between their behavior and that of -the colonists can be well understood. Suffice it to say -that in the main they did great credit to their country and -their conduct reassured the Koreans and won for them -as a rule tolerance and often real good will.</p> - -<p>However, the reforms which the pro-Japanese had so -hopefully expected did not come. The monetary affairs -about which the Japanese had complained as being so -bad were not altered when they came into power, and -in addition they now began to demand all sorts of -privileges which became no small hardship to the -Koreans. In Fusan the Japanese Board of Trade asked -their government to secure the maritime customs service, -permission for extra territorial privileges, the establishment -of Japanese agricultural stations, etc.</p> - -<p>In the meanwhile the tide of Japanese immigration -was daily rising higher and higher as to quantity, but -the friends of Japan would certainly like to think that -the people who came could have represented only her -worst classes. This is not the place, nor are missionaries -the people to animadvert upon them or their conduct; -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">283</span> -nor perhaps did it seem possible with the war on their -hands at first, and a hostile native people to keep in -check later, for the few Japanese officials to look into -the cases brought before them, and deal out justice to -their own offending countrymen. But I do say that had -they been able to do so, their task in Korea would be an -easier one to-day, for Koreans are a long-suffering -people. Moreover, when loud complaints concerning the -Koreans’ unwillingness to yield to “legally constituted -authority” (?) are heard, let the reader bear in mind that -this same “legally constituted authority” seldom, if -ever, so far as the writer is aware, has protected the -Korean in his rights, or made him safe and inviolate -in his home, when a home was left to him. We are -not accusing the Japanese. They have undertaken a -difficult task, in which older and more civilized, more -Christian nations have failed, and when we look at -Poland and elsewhere, we do not see that they are more -to be blamed than the illustrious examples they have followed, -but we do say, “Do not judge the Korean too -hardly if he rises in self defense to do what he can to -make reprisals on invaders and to defend his own -rights.”</p> - -<p>In connection with the laying of the railroads, large -tracts of some of the best land in the country were practically -confiscated, and in Seoul large blocks of the most -valuable property in the city were taken at a merely -nominal price, and hundreds of people lost practically -all they had in the world. In the north, where soldiers -were quartered on Koreans, many of the women, whose -custom it is never to be seen by strangers, fled to the -mountain recesses at a most inclement season and incurred -untold suffering. Still the Koreans bore all these -trials with remarkable patience and few complaints. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">284</span></p> - -<p>Many, however, of the malcontents and those who -had suffered loss joined the robbers, and large bands -made frequent and destructive raids upon the smaller -towns and villages, adding to the general distress of the -poor people who actually had no one to look to but the -missionaries and Americans whom they regarded as their -only friends, who could do little enough, alas, to help, -but who could point them to God who pities the helpless, -and bid them hope in Him.</p> - -<p>Although many of the best Koreans who had trusted -in the Japanese had been disappointed to see none of the -promised reforms, great was their added anger and alarm -when on the seventeenth of June the Japanese authorities -made the suggestion “that all uncultivated land in the -Peninsula as well as all other national resources should -be open to the Japanese. The Koreans now indeed raised -a storm of protest. The time was unpropitious. -Koreans recognized that the carrying out of this would -result in a Japanese protectorate, though the latter had -probably not believed the Koreans capable of following -out the logic of this.”<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">7</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">7</a> -Hulbert’s “History of Korea.”</p></div> - -<p>They however, not being prepared at that time to carry -matters to extremes, after repeated attempts at a compromise, -at length temporarily dropped it.</p> - -<p>The Koreans, in order to oppose the encroachments -of the Japanese, had organized a society “for the promotion -of peace and safety” (Po an Whai) and many exciting -discussions took place as to how to defeat the -purposes of the Japanese, while continually a stream of -memorials poured in to the Emperor, beseeching him not -to yield to the demands of the invaders. The latter, -therefore, forcibly broke in on one of the meetings and -carried leading members to the police station, and at -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">285</span> -other times raided the meeting-place, arrested other members -and confiscated their papers. They further warned -the Korean government that these doings must be firmly -put down, and insisted that those who kept on sending -memorials against the Japanese must be arrested and -punished. The position of the Emperor at that time, as -ever since, was certainly not an enviable one, and then -if ever was it true that “uneasy lies the head that wears -a crown.” Indeed the poor Korean Emperor’s crown -was sitting very loosely just then and there seemed no -way in sight to keep it from rolling quite away.</p> - -<p>Japanese troops in Seoul were increased at this time -to six thousand. The members of the Po an Whai, on -the other hand, sent circular letters throughout the -country. News spreads in a marvellous way in Korea, -faster than by mail, almost as by telegraph the human -wireless flies from mouth to mouth, from hand to hand, -and thousands of members were enrolled in every -province.</p> - -<p>In August Japanese military authorities asked for six -thousand coolies to work on the railroad at handsome -wages, but the report got out that these men were to be -on the fighting line. Perhaps they distrusted their employers, -but, whatever the reason, only two thousand men -could be obtained and there were frequent bloody fights -in the villages when the effort was made to force men to -work.</p> - -<p>The tide of public opinion was now running high -against them on account of the waste land measure and -the violation of the right of free speech, which had -hitherto rarely been interfered with by their own government -in spite of all its faults.</p> - -<p>The Po an Whai still continued to carry on its -propaganda, so the Japanese started another, called the Il -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">286</span> -Chin society, protected by Japanese police and having -only such members as were properly accredited by them; -and following this another society was organized as the -Kuk Min or National People’s Club. Although their -plans were good, having no means whereby to carry -them out they were laughed at by some, but nevertheless -they served to strengthen and unify patriotic feeling, -develop progressive ideas, and sow broadcast through -the land a general desire for advance and reform; to bid -the people awake to the dangers threatening them and to -stir up a general spirit of inquiry as to the best method -to strengthen their country and finally deliver her. Perhaps -not much wisdom was wasted here. The members -were all more or less ignorant of such things, of almost -anything, in fact, but Chinese classics, but nevertheless -a beginning must always be made, and this was at least -something.</p> - -<p>And now in connection with the societies and the universal -cry of “Kaiwha”—progress—one began to see -everywhere a distressing admixture of foreign and native -dress. Koreans had been for some time cutting their -hair. Now hundreds were wearing foreign caps and -shoes which with their own long white coats gave the -painfully ridiculous appearance of some one going -abroad in night attire, having stopped only for foot and -head gear. Some wore no coats at all but very gaily -colored foreign vests, with their baggy white trousers -below. The transition stage in the dress of eastern peoples -is sad to a degree to the foreigner who loves them -and holds their dignity and respectability dear as his -own. The more he cares for the people the more bitterly -does he resent the harrowing and pitiful variety of incongruities -evolved by the natives in their zealous efforts -to imitate the foreigner. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">287</span></p> - -<p>Thus progress and pro-Japanese societies—names by -some considered synonymous—multiplied, but the poor -common people were as sheep without a shepherd, a -prey to the wolves and robbers on all hands.</p> - -<p>During that summer the Japanese made their first -suggestions that Korea should recall her foreign representatives -and that all Korean diplomatic business be -transacted through the Japanese Legation. This was -not, however, pushed at this time, but was simply a -forecast of what was in store.</p> - -<p>A little later a Mr. Stevens,<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">8</a> an American citizen, was -nominated by them as adviser to the Korean foreign office. -This was a move of great discernment, for Americans -have always been particularly favored by the Korean -court and people from the Emperor to the coolie, -and the advice of an American would meet a far readier -hearing at that time than that of a Japanese. This man, -being the Japanese appointee and dischargeable only by -them, was more than likely, as it chanced, to advise -Koreans according to the wishes of the Japanese, indeed, -for what other purpose could his patrons have placed him -there?</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">8</a> -On March 23, 1908, a Korean member of the Religious Army attempted -to assassinate Mr. Stevens at San Francisco, wounding him -so seriously that he died a few days later.</p></div> - -<p>In accordance with this advice the Korean Emperor -disbanded and dismissed most of the fifty thousand troops -he then had under arms, as he was reminded they were -a needless expense. The Japanese had assured Korea’s -independence and a small body-guard was all that was -needed.</p> - -<p>About this time, partly in response to the fast growing -feeling of the Koreans themselves that one of their -heaviest drawbacks was a lack of knowledge of Western -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">288</span> -sciences, a number of foreigners, including nearly all -the missionaries, formed an educational association of -Korea, their object being to prepare text-books for Korean -schools. A little later a large number of Koreans -also founded an educational society which did not attempt -to do with politics but gathered together those -who believed education must be one of the important -factors in putting Korea on her feet.</p> - -<p>In September, 1904, the twentieth anniversary of the -founding of Protestant Missions was celebrated.</p> - -<p>The Seoul-Fusan Railroad was completed during this -year and the Seoul-Wi Ju Railroad well under way, and -although they were put through in the interests of the -Japanese, missionaries cannot but believe that unconsciously -they were the agents of the Almighty making -straight paths for His own kingdom. The missionaries -of the Cross were, with the Japanese troops, the first -people to use these roads while they were still in construction.</p> - -<p>As the year advanced Japanese kept at work gathering -the material resources of the country. The offices of -the high Japanese officials were said to be literally besieged -by their insistent countrymen who had no doubt -come to Korea to make a great fortune one and all under -the ægis of their own victorious troops and there is little -doubt that the task of these officials, between their own -rapacious nationals on the one hand and the Koreans who -must be kept quiet for a time at least, till the army had -done with Russia, was not too easy. Fishing rights along -the whole coast were demanded and given, and next trading -and riparian rights were seized.</p> - -<p>The signing of the treaty of peace with Russia was -the signal for a still more active policy in Korea, and then -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">289</span> -immediate steps were taken for the establishment of a -protectorate.</p> - -<p>It is a well understood and by a certain class of politicians -well practised proverb that “To the victor belong -the spoils,” and had Japan simply seized Korea at this -time, it would neither have surprised nor greatly shocked -the world at large, or the readers of universal history. -But the somewhat clumsy attempt to place the Koreans -in the position of suing for this, was on the part of the -usually astute Japanese a strange proceeding. It seems -as incredible that they could have expected to hoodwink -the world as it was unnecessary. They may have wished -to produce a certain impression, to create a given effect -on the large party among their own best people who -desired the practical independence of Korea to be preserved -and faith kept with them. Whatever their -reasons, the sheep’s clothing was inadequate, and the -grim fact was only too patent to those who were concerned -to know about the matter.</p> - -<p>Early in the autumn of 1905 the Emperor had been -approached with the suggestion of a protectorate. He -was willing to recognize Japanese predominance in -Korea, even acquiesced in Japanese advisorships, but -when it came to turning the whole country over he refused. -He knew that if he remained firm it could not be -done without arousing indignation and perhaps some interference -in his favor. He determined to lodge a protest -at Washington, turning naturally, as all Koreans do, -first to America and England, but England’s treaties with -Japan were so sweeping that he knew it would be useless -to look there. America’s treaty, however, has the following -clause, “That if either of the contracting parties is -injured by a third party, the other shall interfere with -her good offices to effect an amiable settlement.” This -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">290</span> -could not be done through the regular channel of the -Foreign Office, as the before mentioned American agent -of the Japanese was in charge there. A personal and private -letter was therefore sent direct to the President, -asking him to investigate and help. This message was -carried by an American resident, but the Japanese, probably -surmising what was being done, hurried on the -completion of their plans. Marquis Ito was sent to -Seoul with definite instructions. Korea was to be induced -or forced to sign away her existence “voluntarily” (?).</p> - -<p>Though many conferences with the Cabinet took -place, there was no result. The Koreans stood fast for -the treaty of 1904 in which Japan guaranteed independence. -Not a member of the Cabinet consented. It is -unnecessary to go into all the painful details, but at last -by surrounding the Cabinet and the palace with soldiers, -by having previously secured the consent of two or three -men who were venal, after repeated efforts and long discussions, -show of armed force and having forcibly removed -Han Kyu Sul, the strong Prime Minister (without -whose signature no measure can be legally passed) -they managed to gain a majority of one, and the seal -being illegally fixed by the envoy, the fact was declared -accomplished and the authorities immediately announced -in Washington that Korea had voluntarily entered into -an agreement granting Japan a protectorate. The American -government almost immediately recognized Japan’s -claim and removed the Legation from Seoul. The -petition of the Emperor arrived in Washington before -action had been taken, but though its arrival was announced -to the President, it was not received till too -late.</p> - -<p>“For twenty-five years American representatives and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">291</span> -residents had been reiterating that we stood for right -against mere brute force, and Korea had a right to regard -our government as the one above all others to demur -at any encroachment on her independence. But -when the time of difficulty approached we deserted her -with such celerity, such cold-heartedness and such refinement -of contempt, that the blood of every decent American -citizen boiled with indignation. While the most -loyal, patriotic, cultured of Korean nobility were committing -suicide one after another, because they would not -survive the death of their country, the American Minister -(Mr. Morgan) was toasting the perpetrators in -bumpers of champagne, utterly indifferent to the death -throes of an empire which had treated American citizens -with a courtesy and consideration they had enjoyed in -no other Oriental country.”<a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">9</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">9</a> -Hulbert’s “Passing of Korea.”</p></div> - -<p>News of this action was carried that night to the editors -of one of the Korean dailies. They worked all night, -well knowing that the result of their action would be -confiscation of their presses and imprisonment at least, -but thousands of copies of the paper containing a detailed -report of all that had happened were in the hands of the -people scattered broadcast beyond possibility of recall before -the Japanese were aware. Every effort was made -to destroy this publication and to prevent the spread of -this story to other countries but it was too late. Members -of the Cabinet and Court told the story to Americans, -and though there existed a rigid censorship of -telegraph lines and mails, it was carried by foreigners to -China, so that even in the minds of those who lend the -most willing ear to the story told by the Japanese, there -must always remain at least a moiety of doubt.</p> - -<p>When, as soon as the fact of the protectorate was announced, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">292</span> -the American Legation was so suddenly removed, -there went up as it were a great cry from the -heart of the people, “Et tu, Brute.” It seemed the seal -of their misfortunes, the certainty that their best friend -remorselessly and with hopeless finality had deserted -them.</p> - -<p>Strong men were sobbing, moaning, crying like women -or little children. Many committed suicide. Shops -were closed with emblems of mourning. A nation was -in sackcloth and ashes, on its face in the dust. It was a -bitter hour for Korea and for the humiliated Americans -who for once were not proud of their government so far -as its policy in Korea was concerned. Well was it for -the cowards who had signed the agreement that when -they ventured through the streets it was with a strong -guard of Japanese, for the people would have torn them -to pieces, and as it was, numerous attempts were made on -their lives. One of them attempted or pretended to attempt -suicide, and to this step they were all advised by -their compatriots. Japanese troops and artillery were -paraded through the capital, with great show of power. -Heavy guards were stationed at various points, though -no attempt at resistance was made by the unarmed, unorganized, -uncaptained mass of the citizens, against the -victorious conquerors of Russia. Pro-Japanese societies -and clubs suddenly collapsed. The party that had believed -all along that Japan would keep her treaty and -help Korea maintain her independence, was now disillusioned, -horror-struck and indignant. The missionaries -unanimously did all in their power to quiet the unhappy -people, to prevent useless uprisings and bloodshed, -and to comfort them in their sore distress. Some of them -were inclined to resent these efforts to prevent revolt -and to think and say that these missionaries were false -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">293</span> -friends who did not care for the welfare of the nation. -Who could blame them for casting such a reproach upon -us, when our own government had deserted them without -even a word of commiseration or regret?</p> - -<p>To add to the distress an epidemic of malarial fevers -with typhus and typhoid, took place, on account of the -way in which the city drains had been closed. The city -had always been drained by open ditches which empty -into a large drain flowing out under the walls. These -small ditches were, in addition, periodically cleaned out -by men who gather fertilizers; and, purified by sun and -air, and washed out by the rains, they were not so great -a source of evil as they looked. But the new-comers, by -way of reform, and with the inevitable eye to appearances, -ordered all these ditches covered. A protest, private -and public, went up from every physician in Seoul. -Appeals were made, but in vain. The ditches were covered -with boards and sod and left to ferment and breed -countless colonies of germs, with the result just mentioned.</p> - -<p>Japanese colonists were still pouring into the country -by thousands<a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">10</a> and the class who came, and came as conquerors, -was such (as has been noted) as to entail inevitable -hardships on the natives. There is an impression -abroad that all Japanese are now civilized. This is a -great mistake. While in the cities there are large schools -and universities of Western learning, it must be remembered -there are forty million of people, most of whom -live in the country and are very poor, who have never -been touched by the wave of civilization that has swept -over Tokio, Yokohama, Osaka, Nagasaki and the great -cities. They are little if any different from their grandfathers -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">294</span> -as Commodore Perry found them, and their -customs of dress, their ideas as to the seclusion of women, -their morals, their habits of thought, their animus -is in every way diametrically opposite to that of the -Koreans. Easier would it be to mix oil and water than -these peoples.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">10</a> -There are now over 100,000 Japanese in Korea and they are -coming at the rate of 50 to 100 a day (1908).</p></div> - -<p>Some Japanese schools were started by the protectors -but the Koreans were hardly prepared to profit by these, -as the teaching was in Japanese, a language they could -not understand, and yet it has been said that the Koreans -did not care for education and were not willing or fit to -make use of the advantages offered them.</p> - -<p>But every little village has its schools, and among the -Christians nearly every little group has its self-supporting -parochial school, where the elements of Western -learning are taught and the people are eagerly begging -American missionaries for colleges and high schools -which, as fast as provided, are thronged with students -and could be easily thronged were the capacity doubled. -The attitude of the people toward Christianity is stated -in another chapter. Let it suffice to say that now is the -accepted time to push forward with the standard of the -Cross in Korea.</p> - -<p>A young woman graduate of one of our largest American -women’s colleges wrote, “Of one thing I am -certain, that Christianity is the force for good and for -enlightenment in Korea, in spite of all that may be said -concerning Japanese reforms, governmental, educational, -social.”</p> - -<p>Another writes from Korea: “The whole country is -ripe for the picking. The direful political conditions -have turned the people toward the missionaries and their -message is the only succor in sight. The leaders are -openly declaring that in Christianity alone is to be found -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">295</span> -the political and social salvation of the nation. In their -extremity the Koreans are ready to turn to the living -God. It may not be so two years hence. <i>Conditions -of which I dare not write are changing the character -of Korea.</i><a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">11</a> If the Christian Church has any conception -of strategy and appreciation of opportunity, any sense -of relative values, she will act at once—not next year, -but <i>now</i>.”</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">11</a> -Morphine is being introduced with fearful success by Japanese, -hundreds of immoral characters are plying their trade and the character -of the people seriously changed. <span class="smcap">L. H. U.</span></p></div> - -<p>Just before the meeting of The Hague the Emperor -decided to send an appeal thither for Korea. He was -warned that if he did so it would result in his death or -abdication, but he held firm. He replied that he knew -that would be the case but that the appeal must be made. -This was done and the abdication followed as predicted. -Since then the rebellious among the people, many of -those who have sore grievances, who have lost their -homes, perhaps their all, and have been driven to desperation, -have joined hands with the bandits, and form -large companies of insurrectionists, called the Righteous -Army, who keep up a kind of guerrilla warfare, giving -the Japanese no rest.</p> - -<p>A newspaper correspondent writes “The whole -country is ablaze with <i>eui-pyung</i> (righteous soldiers.) -Their professed object is to protest against Japanese -rule and free the land from it.... As I take up -to-day’s paper it reads ‘Modol (twenty miles west of -Seoul) Dec. 7. Company fifty-one of the Japanese -fought with one hundred and fifty rebels (<i>eui-pyung</i>) -and drove them off. Su Won (twenty miles south of -Seoul) Dec. 2. <i>Eui-pyung</i> entered the town, robbed, -plundered and made off toward Namyang. Idong -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">296</span> -(twenty-five miles southeast of Seoul) Dec. 4. <i>Eui-pyung</i> -entered and carried off the two chief men. Puk-chung -(three hundred and seventy miles north of Seoul) -Dec. 4. After much effort on the part of government -(Japanese) troops, the <i>eui-pyung</i> have been dispersed. -Chechun (one hundred miles south of Seoul) Dec. 2. -Three hundred <i>eui-pyung</i> were followed, brought to a -fight and thirteen killed. Changyim (seventy miles -north of Seoul) Dec. 1. Fifty <i>eui-pyung</i> were encountered -and in the fight six were killed. Eumsung -(thirty miles southeast of Seoul) Dec. 4. An attack was -made on the <i>eui-pyung</i>, two were killed and five -wounded,’ etc.”</p> - -<p>“All the while every Japanese wayfarer is marked, -followed and done to death. The <i>eui-pyung</i> are everywhere. -In the twinkling of an eye they gather, they -separate. To-day five hundred are here. To-morrow -no one knows where they have been spirited away to. -Seoul and the larger cities alone are safe from their -attack.... The task before the government grows -daily more formidable.”</p> - -<p>It has been reported that along the line of some of the -railways the Japanese have been obliged to establish a -continuous line of fortified posts with resident troops to -prevent the constant destruction of the bridges and road -bed by the <i>eui-pyung</i>, but in these reports coming from -the government we are not told the numbers of their -troops killed and wounded in these encounters, presumably -too small to be worth mentioning. It is nevertheless -evident that there is in the minds of a large number of -Koreans objection to the present order which they are -taking this means of recording.</p> - -<p>As for the large body of Christians, they remain the -most orderly, reliable and peaceable of the whole native -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">297</span> -population. The missionaries, one and all, whether from -a wish to uphold Japanese rule, or a desire to save useless -bloodshed, are unanimous in using all their influence -to quiet the Christians and to induce them to prevent uprisings -and revolts, and after the abdication the Christians -in Pyeng Yang went through the streets counselling forbearance -and patience.</p> - -<p>These Christians are, however, no less patriotic than -their more demonstrative compatriots. They are eager -for progress, for education, for uplift, because they -believe and openly declare that in Christian education -and Christianity alone is to be found the political and -social salvation of the country.</p> - -<p>They are seeking “Kaiwha” more diligently than -ever, and they are learning that progress and civilization -do not consist in altering the cut and color of a man’s -coat or the length of his hair; that it is not a matter of -tramways, wide streets, tall houses, gunboats, well drilled -armies, factories, arts, luxuries, hideous European -clothes, etc. Most Eastern countries have all or many or -some of these things, but even where they are in greatest -profusion one feels that something is wanting. It is as -like true civilization as a graphophone is like the true -voice of a friend. There is a hollow, brassy ring about -it. It does not come from a warm, living <i>heart</i> but is -only a poor caricature out of an empty shell. They are -learning that true civilization is not a veneer; it is the -solid ringed growth of centuries reaching its leaves and -blossoms unto Heaven. Some of its outgrowths are the -things these people copy so marvellously in paper and -wax that we can scarcely tell the difference.</p> - -<p>At a great fête given in an Eastern city they built -most cunningly out of boards and canvas a grand old -tree; they painted it with wonderful skill and crowned -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">298</span> -it with paper leaves and blossoms. It was a marvel -whereat the world stood open mouthed for a day, but -the rain descended and the floods came and the wind -blew and beat upon the tree and it fell <i>for it had no roots</i>.</p> - -<p>The Korean Christians are learning fast, we hope, -that better civilization of which our dictionaries give but -one or two definitions: “<i>The humanization of man in -society; the satisfaction for him in society of the true -law of human nature</i>,” and “<i>The lifting up of men mentally, -morally and socially</i>.”</p> - -<p>This never was, never will be done by tramways and -new clothes. It can never be brought about by armies -and men of war. It will not follow in the train of art -and of luxuries, though they follow it. Men, however -well dressed and well informed, may be after all no better -than the manufactured tree, without the <i>vital principle of -life</i> that is in Christianity to “lift them up mentally, -morally and socially” above the material and sensual and -hold them there unshakenly rooted in the rock.</p> - -<p>They are learning that all that is best in Western civilization, -the motor power that stirs the energies of men -and brings out the choicest results is Christian faith and -love. Christian principle, and that where this principle -is implanted, this spirit breathed, there is a civilization -made or making, for the choice things of which heathenism -has often not even a word whereby they may be expressed. -Test them by such words as God, Heaven, -Home, Love, Faith or Sin—where do they stand?</p> - -<p>This is the reason that to-day Korean statesmen are -saying that in Christianity is the only hope for Korea’s -national salvation.</p> - -<p>And here let me quote Dr. J. D. Davis of Kyoto who -says, “If this work of Christianity can go on unchecked -and unchilled Korea will be rapidly evangelized and filled -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">299</span> -with millions of happy, enlightened Christian homes and -this little kingdom, despised though it has been, will give -to the world a priceless example of the way and the only -way that the Gospel can be carried to the whole world -during the present generation.”</p> - -<p>Again Mrs. Curtis, another American missionary to -the Japanese, writes, “By God’s blessing, within the next -ten years, if the Church in America will do its part, this -whole nation (Korea) may be reached with the Gospel. -Korea is fast becoming Christian, and, if Japan does not -soon respond to God’s call to her, there is the prospect -of a Christian people, producing the first-fruits of true -life, brought under the sway of a nation yet dead, who -have appropriated the fruits of centuries of Christian -growth, but who refuse to share the life which alone -can make those fruits sweet and wholesome and bring -them to perfection. A Christian nation ruled by another -whose real God is National Glory! It will be laid to the -charge of the Christian Church if this becomes a fact. -Every man and woman who is ‘looking for the kingdom -of God’ and faithfully seeking to hasten its coming -ought to consider this.”<a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">12</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">12</a> -Missionary review, March 1908.</p> - -<p>Books which may be relied upon to give trustworthy accounts of conditions -in Korea during the period above referred to are: Hulbert’s -“Passing of Korea,” Doubleday, Page & Co.; McKenzie’s “Unveiled -East,” Hutchinson & Co.; Story’s “To-morrow in the Far East,” Chapman -& Hull, H. G. Underwood’s “The Call of Korea,” Revell (Mission -study book); Hulbert’s “History of Korea.”</p></div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">300</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII<br /> - -<span class="medium">PRESENT STATUS OF MISSIONS IN KOREA.</span></h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Present Status of Missions—Wonderful Progress—Education for -Girls—Medical Missions—Denominational Comity—Christianity -Spreading—Individuals at Work—Christian Heroes—Character -of Korean Christians—How the Work Grows—Christian -Influence—Training Classes—Circuit Work—Statistics—Rapid -Extension—Evangelistic Work—Joy and -Triumph—The Nation being Evangelized.</p></blockquote> - -<p>What has been previously written in this book regarding -missions has become ancient history already in -the swift onward march of events in Korea. Great political -changes have occurred, referred to elsewhere, and -these have doubtless been used in the Providence of God -to turn the people toward the American teachers whom -they have learned to trust. They have been humiliated, -afflicted, distressed and perplexed and in their trouble and -anxiety they have been eagerly searching on all sides for -some light on a dark problem. Their cry has been, -“What shall we as a nation do to be saved?” Some -of their advisers have said, “Educate your people;” -others, “Make friends with English and Americans;” -others again have said, “Our old religions have never -helped us. Perhaps this doctrine taught by the missionaries -is the truth. If so, we have for centuries been offending -the Almighty. He has permitted this curse to -fall upon us. Let us hasten to repent and obey and worship -only Him and perhaps He will be gracious and restore -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">301</span> -to our nation her ancient place and name and -deliver us.”</p> - -<p>But whatever the remedy suggested, the relief seemed -to lie, for one cause or another, as was said in a previous -chapter with the missionaries, and so the people have -been groping, reaching out lame hands of faith towards -what seemed to them the only hope, and turning in -increasing numbers to the missions, to those who are -there to “bind up the broken-hearted, to bid the oppressed -go free, and to publish the acceptable year of -the Lord,” and those who come to find help have found -far more than they sought; for earthly freedom, fellow-citizenship -with the saints of the household of God; -for their ignorance they receive the wisdom that knows -the love of Christ that passeth knowledge; and instead -of their poverty and emptiness, all the fullness of God.</p> - -<p>As we try to give some idea of the religious status of -the people, perhaps it would be as well to consider the -field at first station by station. Let us begin, then, -with Seoul, the oldest station, the largest city, and looked -at from many points, the most difficult, and also in some -respects the most interesting.</p> - -<p>It is most difficult because here for centuries have -been the headquarters of a corrupt government. Here -reside numberless officials with their retainers and -sycophants, their concubines and dancing girls, and -round them seems to revolve most of the political, social, -religious and business life of the majority of the citizens. -Graft plays a large part in the life of Seoul. Multitudes -of its people are living in the hope of making money -out of the government or some of its officials, the idle -and the wicked of all classes and both sexes seem to -gravitate naturally toward the capital and now it is -crowded with thousands of foreigners of the most depraved -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">302</span> -morality. Yet here the first missionaries settled, -perhaps as much because no other center was then open -as for any other reason.</p> - -<p>Here the Presbyterians have now three flourishing -churches, the Northern Methodists have four, the -Southern Methodists two, the English Society for the -Propagation of the Gospel have a Mission and the -Romanists also two or three churches. None of these -churches would be recognized to-day for those which -were in existence five years ago. They are all far too -small for their congregations, though these are divided, -the men worshipping at one hour, the women at another. -If we are a little late in visiting them we shall -not be able to enter, for doors and windows are crowded -and there is not an inch of space anywhere within hearing -of the speaker’s voice.</p> - -<p>In this city the largest congregation is probably that -of the Yun Mot Kol church, which numbers eleven -hundred people. The growth here is remarkable because -not four years ago this was the weakest of the Presbyterian -churches, not only numerically but in the character -of its people. They seemed jealous, quarrelsome -and niggardly. They were apparently unable to work -in full harmony with the other Presbyterian churches -of the city and unwilling to give in proportion to their -numbers as the others gave, either for the support of -their own work or of the general work of the three -carried on in city and country. But now all is changed. -This is now the largest church in the city and what -rejoices all hearts is that it is gathering in large numbers -of the nobility, most of whom live in that quarter. -This class of people we have almost despaired of reaching -for many reasons. The habit of keeping concubines -is general among them and it is a terrible ordeal to -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">303</span> -wrench away from a woman dearly loved as a wife, and -her little ones, for Koreans are exceedingly fond of -their children and family ties are strong. Again, the -Korean noble feels more than the lower classes, as a -religious duty due to family and clan, the obligation of -ancestor worship, and he is cutting himself loose from -his place in social and family life when he abjures this. -Still further, all officials holding office or attending the -court must bow before certain royal tablets, and perform -religious duties on certain national holidays. If this is -given up his office must also be resigned. So we see -that for a nobleman to become a Christian he must -break the ties of family, of social and of political life -and sacrifice whatever emoluments he is gaining thereby, -and to some of these men it is all their living. Yet -during the last three years a large number of the nobility -have taken this step and their women, who have always -been bound by the custom of seclusion, go in their chairs -or even on foot, well veiled, to the Sabbath services.</p> - -<p>The three Presbyterian churches, as has been said, -work together as one for the evangelization of the -heathen population of the city and surrounding country -districts.</p> - -<p>As for schools, both boys’ and girls’, they are all -overcrowded; many applicants must be sent away. The -churches have their own parochial primary schools for -girls and boys which they, of course, support as well -as their own church work, and there are boarding -schools more advanced, corresponding to academies, connected -with the different missions, for the reception of -pupils who graduate from the lower schools and also for -the children of Christians from the country.</p> - -<p>A noted feature of the change in the spirit of the -people is the way in which all are demanding education -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">304</span> -for their girls. Twenty years ago it was almost impossible -to get any girls into our schools except the -friendless and sick, little homeless waifs and orphans -whom no one else cared for or wanted. It is interesting -to see the way in which these changes have taken place. -Little by little the daughters of Christians were allowed -to attend if the Mission paid all expenses; then the -country Christians began paying for the board and clothing -of their daughters; then the unbelievers began to -ask us to take in their girls and now the nobility are -insisting on schools for their young women and are -allowing some of them to mix with the lower caste -girls in the ordinary schools. Mrs. Campbell, in charge -of the girls’ school of the Southern Methodist Mission, -who lives in a neighborhood where dwell a great many -of the upper classes, has been literally besieged by -wealthy and high caste ladies who beg her to establish -a school for their young women and girls. Two such -schools have been established in the city under non-Christian -auspices and so determined are the people for -education that they will provide it for themselves in -these ways if we do not give them Christian schools. -There are now three large mission boarding-schools for -girls in Seoul, which cannot accommodate half the girls -who are applying for admittance.</p> - -<p>The story of the boys’ school is much the same. The -English Episcopalians as well as the Presbyterians and -Methodists have established boys’ schools, although the -former are near the river, and there are also government -native schools and Japanese schools of a non-Christian -character. It has been and still is the hope that these -schools of the Methodists and Presbyterians may in the -future be united and thus effect a considerable saving in -money, time and effort. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">305</span></p> - -<p>There is little doubt that in the future the strategic -point for our largest colleges and academies must be -in or near Seoul, which is geographically, politically and -socially the center of the peninsula, and with great fields -of mission work north, south and east of it, and of easy -access from all parts of Korea both by rail and water -way.</p> - -<p>The medical mission work centers in the Severance -Hospital, just outside the South Gate. This is a modern -hospital, fitted up in every way according to the usages of -modern medical and surgical science. There is a corps of -nurses and assistants under the care of an American -trained nurse. Young men are being prepared to practice -medicine under the instruction of our doctors and the -hospital and dispensary are crowded with patients, most -of whom pay something for their medicine. Here again -we see the change in the attitude of the people; for -whereas at first people were not often willing to pay -anything, and the women of high class not only would -not visit the male physicians, but would not see them -in their own homes except in the direst straits, now most -of them are willing to see the doctors, many of them -will go to the hospital, and gentlemen of high rank are -willing to go there for treatment or operations, take -private rooms, pay well for their care and often express -themselves with overflowing gratitude for the kindness -shown them, sending handsome presents, in addition, to -their physicians and nurses, but what is far more important, -go away either converted men or strongly favoring -Christianity and the mission work.</p> - -<p>The woman’s hospital and dispensary under the care of -the ladies of the Methodist Mission has been just as -flourishing, only it has not been favored by having so -generous a patron as the Severance Hospital, but it is -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">306</span> -doing a good work and is known far and wide. The -devoted women in charge of it are heart and soul in -favor of union and undenominational mission work and -they and we hope that all the medical work in Korea -may be united under one medical committee and carried -on in harmony with one plan, for the better economy of -time, money and effort, and for the better and happier -spirit, the avoidance of small jealousies and frictions, the -uplift that comes to those who are working together as -one, according to our Lord’s will and command.</p> - -<p>For the same reasons, until the happy time when there -shall be in all Korea but one united church of Jesus, the -various missions have gradually been coming to a certain -degree of agreement as to division of territory in Korea.</p> - -<p>“Beginning from the south, we find the provinces of -North and South Chulla, together with a few counties -in the southern part of Chung Chong assigned exclusively -to the Southern Presbyterians. The Southern -province of Kyeng Keui is divided by counties between -the Australian and American Northern Presbyterians, -but North Kyeng Keui is left exclusively to the -Northern Presbyterians. The provinces of North and -South Chung Chong fall jointly to the American -Northern Presbyterians and Methodists and a careful -division of the territory by counties is under consideration. -Kang Won is divided between the Southern -Methodists and Northern Presbyterians and the Church -of England, but even here there are mutual arrangements -to prevent overlapping. The provinces of North -and South Ham Kyeng have been left almost entirely -to the care of the Canadian Presbyterian Church, while -the other three provinces of Whang Hai and North and -South Pyeng An are jointly worked by the American -Northern Presbyterian and Methodist churches, a division -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">307</span> -according to counties having been arranged for -most of this section and under advisement for the -balance.”<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">13</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">13</a> -From “Call of Korea” by H. G. Underwood.</p></div> - -<p>We find then that Seoul is the center for a very -large and important country work, divided between the -missions of the Northern and Southern Methodists and -the Northern Presbyterians and includes parts of the -Southern province of Kyeng Keui with all of Kyeng -Keui North and South Chung Chong and Kang Won, -giving a population of considerably over three million -people, that assigned to the Presbyterians of Seoul alone -having 1,500,000 inhabitants, and consists of a belt -practically covering the whole width of the peninsula, -comprising an area slightly less than that of West -Virginia and about the same latitude. The Presbyterians -have 123 self-supporting churches, 178 places of regular -meeting, 1612 communicants, of which 315 were added -last year, and 7500 adherents, and in 44 schools, they -have an enrolment of over 750 scholars. For the care -and oversight of all this they have eight clerical men, -two doctors and four single ladies, but it must be remembered -that three men must give the most of their -time to Bible translation and literary work and Seoul -being in a way the center for the whole field no small -amount of technical business and committee work of the -Mission devolves on these men, as well as the Mission -schools. The Tract Society and Young Men’s Christian -Associations and the Bible Societies have their agencies -here and all these societies must claim a good deal of the -time of Seoul missionaries, so that we may say that not -more than five men are able to look after the needs of -the great Bishopric of over 1,500,000 souls, the share -of the Northern Presbyterians. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">308</span></p> - -<p>Chong Ju, though as yet considered part of Seoul station -and its reports of work given there, will be in the near -future a separate station and is now occupied by two -clerical missionaries, one of whom is married. The work -there is increasingly promising and the new station is in -a very populous district. Mr. F. S. Miller writes, “The -year has been one of lengthening cords, so that instead -of 26 groups and meeting places we have now 44, instead -of 46 communicants there are now 102, instead of -68 catechumens there are now 260, instead of five -church buildings there are now fourteen, instead of -$264.10 gold contributions there are $408.63. The work -now extends eighty miles north, sixty miles south, -seventy miles west and thirty-three miles east. We have -groups and meeting places in twelve of the seventeen -counties of the northern province and are working in -twenty counties of the southern province. It takes two -months of solid itineration to make <i>the round of the -established work alone</i>. The Christians received much -benefit from the revivals which the Spirit worked first -in the city church and then in a succession of country -classes till even the most conservative helper found himself -in charge of a revival where he saw such conviction -of sin as he had not thought possible before.”</p> - -<p>The Northern Methodists connected with Seoul station -have oversight of nearly 100 churches with 4283 members -and some 2851 seekers. More than one million -people inhabit the territory of this Mission around Seoul -and for the care of all these together with charge of their -publishing house, which undertakes work for the whole -country, and for the schools and Women’s Hospital, they -have only six men and seven single ladies.</p> - -<p>At Seoul the Southern Methodists have four ordained -men and four single ladies. The last statistics of this -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">309</span> -Mission show 181 churches with 89 church buildings, -4998 members. Before turning to some of the other -large centers of Mission work we must not forget to -mention the Methodist Mission Press, which is the only -mission press in Korea except a small one in Pyeng -Yang, and the Y. M. C. A., which is accomplishing great -things for the large numbers of young men of wealth -and rank as well as for those of poorer families. Early -in the history of the work we began to realize the need -of some means of reaching the very large class of young -men who would not go to the churches or the schools, to -provide a pleasant and attractive gathering place where -they could find simple and innocent amusement and instruction, -to make it all sufficiently attractive to be a -means of reaching these young men with the gospel. -This of course was its first, last and only <i>raison d’être</i>. -Forthwith the Y. M. C. A. in America were approached. -Shortly after an agent was sent and from the first this -association has been an untold blessing and a great -success. Hundreds of young men belong; thousands -attend and receive the gospel; the Koreans themselves -have given thousands of dollars towards its support. -One Korean gentleman from whom we wished to purchase -land made a present of it to the Association and -last year so great was the number attending one of the -meetings that even the new temporary building was insufficient -and the great throng were obliged to meet -under a tent temporarily put up for the purpose.</p> - -<p>It must be remembered that Koreans have no theatres, -concerts, operas, lectures, or any other evening entertainments. -They haven’t even any attractive saloons or -gambling places. They gamble and drink, it is only -too true, but in their own homes, so that an attractive -place for evening entertainments like the Y. M. C. A. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">310</span> -met one of the very most crying needs of the public. -There are classes here for the study of music, English -and Japanese, and other branches of learning. There are -games, newspapers, books and frequent entertainments, -musical and literary, and so this institution is reaching -out widely among the best families of the land, winning -a place and a hearing for the missionary and the gospel -he proclaims, reclaiming lost young men, yes, whole -families, and bringing them into the true fold. Whether -it may or may not be the best thing elsewhere, it is -certainly a necessity in Seoul, and it has had so long and -far a start of Satan’s man-traps that we believe they will -never be able to overtake it in the race. And now let -me give a few quotations from the letters of some of the -Seoul missionaries before turning to another part of the -field.</p> - -<p>A Methodist missionary from Seoul writes to “The -Korea Field” of 1907. “In the early spring of 1899 I -itinerated through the southeastern section of the Kyeng -Keui province and baptized a man and two of his family. -It was like putting a match to dry prairie grass. Thereafter -until the present day it has been a constant hustle -to gather in the groups of believers springing up all -over the territory and organize them into churches. Before -I left on furlough in 1905 the number of believers -had already reached into the thousands; since my return -last fall it has been a continual struggle to organize the -work and man it with efficient leaders and get it ready -for a grand rally all over the district. The little group -composed of a man and his family baptized in an obscure -village was the first of a mighty host, for the work begun -there has spread into five provinces and now, as it stands -on our rolls, numbers 298 groups, besides a number of -those that are not yet counted, enrolling 16,202 believers. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">311</span> -Daily new groups are coming into existence and <i>pleading -for guidance and instruction</i>. Chapels have been -built all over the district by earnest believers <i>who never -think of asking for foreign aid</i> (in money). School -buildings have been secured and schools are being conducted -on a modern plan. In this short while I cannot -tell all the wonders that His grace has wrought in this -part of the field, when I think of all the things that I -have seen during the last six months, my heart grows -warm and glad within me. For the best part of it is -that people are being saved and are entering into a live -experience of redeeming grace.” This district has a -second time within two years been deprived of the care -of its missionary, the one who wrote this letter having -been laid low by violent sunstroke, and now this great -district is in the hands of a new young missionary who -has not yet learned the language.</p> - -<p>Here are a few extracts from the letter of one of the -Presbyterian missionaries at Seoul, written to “The -Korea Field” of July, 1907. His district is in North -Kyeng Keui. “The first place visited was a village -twenty miles south of Seoul where <i>no missionary has -ever been before. I found a group of over fifty believers</i>, -all an outgrowth of the work of native Christians. I was -further surprised to find a chapel almost completed. -* * * From morning till late in the evening we -spent examining men, women and children for admission -as catechumens and accepted most of them.”</p> - -<p>He continues, “Ten miles north is my Soti group, -noted for its missionary zeal. Only a year ago the people -built a fine big church with a room adjoining it especially -for the use of the foreign missionary on his visits. During -the past year, through the efforts of the four leading -men and chiefly of deacon Paik three groups of Christians -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">312</span> -have grown up within a radius of three miles. One -of these groups numbers about twenty-five and has already -purchased a house to be used for worship. Another -group was just started and consists of eighteen -adherents, while about forty men and women make up -the third group that will soon have a church building of -their own. Every Sunday one or two men are detailed -from Soti for each of these three groups to lead the -morning and afternoon services.” The leading man, -deacon Paik, is of untiring missionary zeal and great -earnestness. He has been blessed with a big, strong -body and does not hesitate to use it for the church. To -carry heavy loads of lumber for miles on his back and -to spend days in making mortar and plastering when -the church was being built, to walk forty miles in the -winter to Seoul for the sake of getting material for preparing -the church, to start out ahead of me to the next -group, ten miles away, to prepare them for my visit, to -carry my heavy country boxes himself when no coolie -could be found—all these tasks are looked upon by him -not as burdensome duties but a pleasant privilege.”</p> - -<p>At Tang Mok Kol for several years past there had -been but one Christian. Every Sunday he went three -miles to the nearest church to worship. A year ago -three more men became believers and last winter the -gospel began to spread very rapidly among the villages. -One of the new converts was especially impressed with -the necessity of getting a place large enough to accommodate -all the worshippers. Rather than wait until the -new converts would be able to build a church he sold -his big fine working bull (a bull is a farmer’s chief dependence -and most valuable possession) and purchased -with the proceeds a meeting place. When I asked him -what he would do when farming time came, he told me -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">313</span> -he had a young animal and by its aid he hoped to manage -his work. What would we think of a farmer who would -sell all his working teams for the sake of buying a -church? And yet no one among the Koreans thought -this act very wonderful, even though the giver had been -professing Christianity only a few months and was not -even a catechumen. The self-sacrifice of this man produced -the natural result and when shortly after my -winter’s visit the church became too small, the people at -once obtained the necessary timber and with their own -hands enlarged the building. On this visit I found a -house seating sixty people and comfortably filled.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Pieters continues, “In another village composed -largely of inns a group was formed and shortly after a -building purchased for a church. One of the Christians -worked so enthusiastically that their numbers grew -rapidly. People who had all their lives been making -their living by selling whiskey gave up this means of -livelihood and turned to farming. Further on, deep in -the hills, is an isolated village where a number of men -have been led to Christ by a boy. The latter had heard -the gospel in one of our churches and by his own words -as well as by the aid of Christian books he led his parents -to believe. Then he began to invite people to their -house, talked and read his books to them until one by one -the neighbors accepted Christ.</p> - -<p>“All last winter these converts went down every -Sunday to the church where the boy had been converted -ten miles away but since this spring one of the church -members has been sent up there to conduct the Sunday -services there. It is quite unusual in Korea for a boy to -take the lead, for the Confucian ethics require a boy in the -presence of older people to be silently respectful. Thus -came true the prophet’s words, ‘A little child shall lead -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">314</span> -them.’ In my next church there were a year ago only -a few believers. The need of a school for their children -was felt most keenly and I recommended as the teacher -an earnest Christian, an old man. He went for a very -meagre salary, but spent his spare time preaching to the -people and teaching a number of people to read. The -group grew by last winter to about fifty men and women. -Most of the winter they met for their services in two -rooms and on the open porch of the house of one of the -Christians. <i>When the freezing weather came, it became -trying to sit for an hour and a half in the open air during -the services</i>, and the people decided to build a church. -By buying trees in the hills and cutting them and carrying -them down, by collecting loose stones, by preparing -other materials and doing all the work with their own -hands and by other very strenuous efforts, the people -succeeded in putting up a fine church that will seat 120 -persons. One part was partitioned off and fitted for a -school, but it can be thrown open during the services. -Four boys of this school, each less than ten years old, -came every day a distance of three miles to study. Last -winter I met one day the four little figures trudging -along the muddy road carrying in their mittless hands -bowls of cold rice for their dinner. They were cheerful -and seemingly quite content to walk the six miles every -day since it gave them the opportunity of study that so -many boys did not have.</p> - -<p>“The average earning capacity of the majority of -families that make up the Christian constituency of this -district is about thirty dollars a year for a whole family. -Keeping these facts in mind, we can easily see,” says -Mr. Pieters, “how a contribution of two dollars, which -is quite common here when a church is being built, gives -forty-fold measured by standards of values in America. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">315</span> -In addition, none of these have been professing Christianity -more than two years and none of them are yet -baptized. These are the catechumens and adherents.”</p> - -<p>But we must turn away from these incidents illustrating -so thrillingly as they do the wonderful work of -God among the people and the kind of Christians He is -calling into His fold there. Their liberality, their consecration, -their zeal, their faith, all proclaim them preeminently -the work of the Spirit, and these particular -provinces do not abound more in these examples, than -others of which every missionary can tell. These, in -fact, have never been considered so hopeful and progressive -as those in the North.</p> - -<p>Time and space will not suffice to describe as carefully -the work of every station as of the larger centers and -we must hasten on. Fusan Station was started next -after Seoul, but a series of deaths and removals from one -unavoidable cause after another almost seemed to indicate -that the will of God was that the station itself -should be removed to some other place. But houses -and a fine hospital having been built, the brave missionaries -have endured discouragement and disappointment, -not in the natives, but in the constant depletion -of their forces, and to-day as everywhere in Korea the -work is rapidly growing and spreading. The Presbyterian -Hospital here, built by some generous Christians -in America, is absolutely up-to-date, and the physicians’ -work is an immense factor in spreading the knowledge -of the love of Christ through all the surrounding country. -During the year there have been added to this -comparatively small church an increase of almost fifty -per cent. The territory of this station comprises the -Province of South Kyeng Seng and considering the -Australians who share the work, there are left to be -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">316</span> -evangelized by the American Presbyterian Mission here -750,000 people. There are 47 self-supporting churches, -520 communicant members, with 2017 adherents. All -this work is under the care of two clerical workers and -the assistance of an overworked doctor who sees thousands -of patients and performs hundreds of serious -operations with no assistants but Koreans. The Australian -Presbyterian Mission who share this work here -have a good local church and girls’ school at Fusan -and have started a new station at Chin Ju. They have -three clerical missionaries, one of whom is a doctor, and -three single ladies.</p> - -<p>After Fusan, Pyeng Yang was the next station to be -established in Korea. Its history in the early times has -been already given in another chapter. Perhaps because -of the many trials its people have had to endure in the -course of the two Japanese wars and subsequent colonization -by aliens, perhaps because from the earliest times, -first from Manchuria and then from Seoul the gospel -seeds were most persistently and continuously sown -here, perhaps because the people of the north are more -ready and receptive, we know not, but the work during -the last fifteen years has multiplied and spread with -far more amazing rapidity in the north than in the -middle and southern portions of Korea.</p> - -<p>The same can hardly be said much longer. Witness -Mr. Swearer’s letter, just quoted, and the wonderful -percentage of growth in other places. The south has -at last taken fire, too, but nevertheless, even to-day, the -greatest fruits of mission efforts are being gathered in -our northern stations.</p> - -<p>This station was started in 1893 and has under its -care the province of South Pyeng Yang which, though -small, is thickly populated, and a portion of North -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">317</span> -Whang Hai, including about 800,000 people to be -evangelized. There are seven ordained Presbyterian -ministers on whose shoulders in addition to this evangelistic -work rests a large share of theological instruction, -two large educational institutions, the preparation of -school text-books and books of all kinds as well as the -care and direction of eleemosynary institutions such as a -school for the blind and home for the friendless.</p> - -<p>The institutional work for women is largely under -the care of two ladies and the evangelistic work for -women is ably undertaken by the wives of the missionaries -who all devote to it a great deal of time and faithful -work.</p> - -<p>“One part of the province of Whang Hai, at first -coming under the care of Pyeng Yang station, about -two years ago was set off with a part of that belonging -to Seoul station to form the new station of Chai Ryong, -and a part of Northern Pyeng An province which also -was at first a part of Pyeng Yang territory, was set -aside to form the Syen Chun station as the work grew -too heavy and was too distant to receive the careful -constant oversight needed from Pyeng Yang city. The -territory and work in this province is shared with the -Northern Methodists. A division according to counties -has been arranged between these two denominations -for most of this section and a similar division is now -under advisement for the balance. The Methodists have -at present only three ordained clerical missionaries and -one physician to care for their share of the evangelistic -work in this district which includes the province of -South Pyeng An with the entire province of Whang -Hai, making this mission’s share of the population in the -neighborhood of one million, for whom there are only -four ordained men, one of whom must give his entire -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">318</span> -time to educational work. As with the Presbyterians, -the wives of the missionaries take a full and active part -in the evangelistic work. In 1893, when these two -denominations planted their stations and organized their -two churches neither could have counted more than -twenty baptized members—not seventy-five baptized -persons in the whole province, not four chapels in the -extent of their district. Now, 1907, the Presbyterians -have 164 self-supporting churches with 258 regular meeting -places, 6089 communicants of whom 1106 were -added during the year and 20414 adherents. For the -instruction of the children in those churches there are -111 parochial schools of which 110 are entirely self-supporting, -with an attendance of 3075 pupils. In the -city are four churches, Central, South, North and East, -with another church to be set off in the West almost at -once. Although three other churches have already been -set off from the Central Church it is still too small and -they are compelled to hold two services for the accommodation -of the one congregation, packing the building -first with men, later with women. ‘It is here that the -great prayer-meetings of between eleven and twelve hundred -are held, while on the same night similar meetings -are held in the other churches, giving some three or four -thousand people for the week night services. This has -also become an institutional church, with its church -house in the center of the city with recreation and reading -rooms, night schools and classes for educational -training and a large book shop for the dissemination of -the printed Word.’”<a id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">14</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14" class="label">14</a> -“Korea’s Challenge,” by H. G. Underwood.</p></div> - -<p>To a large extent the better class of the people of the -city have been reached and to-day the whole city feels -the effect of Christian influence. A Christian sentiment -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">319</span> -rules and the actions of church members have a reflex -influence on the whole community. Not only is this the -case within the city walls but this influence reaches far -into the country. Its own evangelists sometimes paid by -the native church, sometimes voluntarily at their own -expense, go freely everywhere, preaching, establishing -groups of Christians, which become self-supporting -churches, and holding Bible classes. Most of these -groups have their schools and in their turn as they gain -strength send out evangelists and workers, thus multiplying -the influence of the gospel and everywhere that -this influence prevails saloons are closed, the Sabbath is -kept holy, gambling and vice of every kind is suppressed -and first of all idolatry is abolished. Let me here quote a -few lines from the letter of an American young lady who -visited some of the services held in Pyeng Yang.</p> - -<p>“We visited eight Sunday Schools—Sunday Schools -of small boys and small girls, of big boys and older -girls, of married women and of married men, varying -from one to three hundred pupils respectively. Every -room was flooded with sunlight and crowded with white, -spotless linen-dressed men or women, though nothing -had been said to them on the subject of their appearance -or their dress; the Christians have all adopted the custom -of making valiant efforts, no matter how poor they are, -to appear in clean clothes each Sunday. You can -imagine what this means for women who toil all day -every day but Sunday, and who wear voluminous white -dresses and white handkerchiefs tied around their heads -like Dutch caps. The effect is wonderful. Their faces -shone like the morning, their clothes glistened like white -satin. There were six hundred gathered in one church -for special women’s service at eleven o’clock. Seated -close together on the floor, facing me (I was at the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">320</span> -organ on the platform), with their black hair securely -tied back under their handkerchiefs, their dark eyes full -of expression, their white teeth glistening as they smiled -at me or the speaker—they were truly beautiful.”</p> - -<p>The country work is divided into seven circuits and in -both local and city work those whose assignment is educational -or medical assist also. One of these city -churches will accommodate about fifteen hundred. In -the others about eight hundred to one thousand can be -received.</p> - -<p>The Methodists have two large city churches, one of -which is the First Church of Pyeng Yang and the other -the Drew-Appenzeller Memorial Church. They have -four country circuits with a total membership of 4958 -to which we must add 5308 seekers. They have 43 -primary schools with 1405 pupils.</p> - -<p>In medical work the Presbyterians in charge of the -Caroline A. Ladd hospital and the Methodists have almost -complete union, and the evangelistic opportunities -of these hospitals and dispensaries can scarcely be overestimated. -Thousands of patients are treated here every -year. Mrs. R. S. Hall, M.D., Methodist, has charge of -the Hall Memorial Hospital for women. Women’s work -is carried on by the Methodists through their married -ladies and four single lady missionaries, one of whom is -a native Korean, educated in America and having received -the degree of M.D. in an American university. -These ladies are constantly engaged in giving Biblical -and secular teaching both in the city and in the country -districts.</p> - -<p>In both the Presbyterian and Methodist missions one -of the strongest features here as indeed all through -Korea, is the system of training classes which are -similar to a Bible Institute in America and range from -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">321</span> -those who are just learning to read to those who have -studied their Bibles for years. In the Presbyterian -Mission the class for 1907 from the country districts of -Pyeng An, meeting in Pyeng Yang City, reached an -enrolment of about 1000, the classes for the men of the -city about 800 hundred, that for country women 560, -that for city women 300. In addition to these classes -which in the case of the men was mainly for leaders, 182 -classes were held in central places in the country, the -women missionaries having charge of ten with an enrolment -of 685 men, making altogether 192 of these classes -with an enrolment of 9650. We are sorry not to be able -to give the figures of similar classes held by the -Methodists. We thus have a complete system of Bible -instruction which is illustrated by the following simple -diagram.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/p321.jpg" -alt="" /></div> - -<p>The large spots at the end of the radii represent the -country centers and to these the people from the little -villages round, represented by the small dots, gather to -the country classes, while the leaders from all these -places, large and small, and many laymen, go up to -Pyeng Yang once a year to the leaders’ Bible training -classes. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">322</span></p> - -<p>In this station is the theological seminary for all the -Presbyterian missions working in Korea. Here students -carefully selected from all over the country are in regular -attendance three months of each year, the rest of -their time being spent in active evangelistic work. The -instructors here are missionaries from all the stations -and from each Presbyterian Mission, but those residing -in Pyeng Yang do a greater portion of this work than -others. A much more extended and complete union in -educational work between Methodists and Presbyterians -has been attained in Pyeng Yang than elsewhere. In the -college and academic work of this section there has been -a tentative union, but those engaged in this believe it -will soon be a fixed arrangement. This educational work -is under the especial charge of the Presbyterian missionaries -assisted by other members of the station and by one -of the Methodist missionaries. The growth during the -last year, especially, has been very great.</p> - -<p>Two single ladies have charge of the institutional work -of the Presbyterians. There are girls’ schools and women’s -Bible classes in both city and country districts.</p> - -<p>A letter very recently received, February, 1908, giving -a few reports from the country circuits, will show something -of the present progress of missions there. Mr. -Swallen, reporting for his itinerating work from October -to December, 1907, says in substance, “During a trip in -which I visited every point except one or two of the -smallest ones I found the work exceedingly encouraging. -Especially through the central west all the churches are -growing rapidly. I made one visit to Pastor Seng’s, -holding a circuit class—Bible—in the latter section attended -by two hundred men and a leaders’ meeting with -an attendance of nearly one hundred. The work of the -circuit is so great that it has been divided and hereafter -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">323</span> -there will be two leaders’ meetings and two circuit -classes. Last year the district supported eleven helpers -at a cost of twelve hundred nyang each, thirteen nyang -more than this sum being in the Treasurer’s hands at the -end of the year. Since then two of the helpers have -become pastors and are receiving thirty-six hundred -nyang, but in addition to this the people propose to support -ten helpers and have increased the salaries of all -who are helpers of experience. Still more, they have -given enough money to send a helper to the new mission -field in the island of Quel Part, the mission field of -Chu Chu. I feel strongly the need of instruction for -the multitudes coming in. I preached every day and -night but what is that when the need is so great and -much of my preaching is special instruction at the commemoration -of the Lord’s Supper. Even the helpers -cannot spend much time in instruction; there are so -many places to visit they can scarcely know all the -people. There must be lay instruction and I feel very -strongly that <i>we must do something at once in the matter -of teaching those who are to give it</i>. At one class -twenty of the leaders and deacons alone expressed their -desire to study for a month in Pyeng Yang in preparation -for this work. During the three months I have baptized -500 adults and 14 children and have received 799 -catechumens. Thirty women’s classes have been arranged -for aside from the circuits in charge of the two -pastors, and during the first two weeks of the Korean -New Year forty-four classes for men will be held in the -district.” These classes are from a week to ten days’ -duration. The same letter goes on to say that “Mr. -Bernheisel during fifty-five days in the country travelled -about 650 miles, visiting 43 groups of Christians.... -There are now five helpers in this district. 164 adults -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">324</span> -were received in baptism and 277 catechumens. In October -Mr. Lee baptized 57 adults in his Whang Chu circuit -and found great advance in educational lines. There -are now eleven boys’ schools and one academy, seven -night schools and four schools for girls. The church in -Whang Chu purchased for three thousand nyang a fine -tiled building, formerly a Roman Catholic church to be -used as their school.</p> - -<p>“Early in November Mr. Moffett made his first visit -to his Eastern circuit in company with the newly ordained -Pastor Han, they together receiving in baptism -73 adults in three churches. In their district four classes -for women had an aggregate attendance of 123.”</p> - -<p>Tai Ku, being the third largest city in Korea, in the -midst of a very densely populated province, that of -North Kyeng Seng, of which it is the capital, a station -was opened here, in 1899. The missionaries had taken -their residence there in 1897. This province is said to -contain 1,750,000 people and is left entirely to our mission -and here in this city is a fairly well equipped hospital, -a church with an average attendance of between -seven and eight hundred and an academy which it is -expected will meet the needs of Tai Ku and Fusan for -some years to come. It is still pioneering work in this -district. The work is divided into that of the city and -four country districts. In the latter they have 85 entirely -self-supporting churches with 564 communicants—of -whom 280 were added during the year—and 6145 -adherents. These churches have 49 schools, 46 being -entirely self-supporting, with an enrolment of 433 pupils. -The numbers of applicants and baptized have been nearly -doubling themselves in this station yearly for the past -three or four years. All this work with the responsibility -for nearly two millions souls is on the shoulders of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">325</span> -four ordained men and one physician, their wives and -one single woman. “The responsibility,” I said, humanly -speaking, for could they not cast this burden on -the Lord it would certainly crush them, but in addition -to the knowledge, the inspiring knowledge that they are -workers together with Him, they also realize that they -have the earnest prayers of brother missionaries and of -Christians in home lands.</p> - -<p>The members of the Southern Presbyterian Mission -arrived in 1893 and have always worked in harmony with -the Northern church. They assisted the Northern Mission -for a few years while studying the language and -finally started their first station in Chun Ju, the adjacent -territory for which they are responsible having a population -of five hundred thousand. There are 60 out stations, -386 communicants, 4000 adherents and there are -ten schools of which nine are self-supporting. There is -only one missionary and his wife to work this territory. -Kun Son is really the port of Chun Ju and with its -surrounding population has a territory inhabited by five -hundred thousand people with four clerical men, one of -whom is married, to care for them. They report 27 out -stations, 381 communicants, 1150 adherents, six schools -and 125 pupils.</p> - -<p>Mok Po and Quang Ju should be considered as one -station, the one being the port, the other the capital of -this southern province and this station has entire charge -of the province of South Chulla Chulla, with a population -something over one million. Here are four missionaries, -three of whom are married and one single lady. They -report 53 out stations, 284 communicants, 3260 adherents -and carry on three schools with 66 pupils. Two million -people are here left to be evangelized by eight missionaries. -Says the Rev. Mr. Preston, “The number of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">326</span> -recognized stations on my circuit has grown from seven -to fourteen. A chain of stations within easy distance -of each other has been effected. The growth has been -very gratifying. I examined in all 331 people of whom -74 received baptism and 193 were received as catechumens. -The total number in these groups is 120 baptized -and 188 catechumens, as against 49 baptized and -75 catechumens last September. It seems hard to realize -that only a year and a half ago this work consisted of -Mok Po with 27 baptized and 17 catechumens, Soo Yung -with six catechumens and Sadong with none. Mok Po -is in a flourishing condition, the <i>growth having been more -than fifty per cent in the last nine months</i>. This, too, is -in the south, where it was said by some only a few years -ago that the people were so different from those in the -north we could never expect similar results among -them.”</p> - -<p>The Canadian Presbyterians, arriving in 1898, have -by mutual agreement been assigned the northern province -of Ham Kyeng and have stations at Won San, Ham -Eung and one point still further north. They have at -present six clerical workers, one male physician, one lady -doctor and one other single woman. They have 62 -self-supporting churches with 814 members, adherents -3830, who gave last year $2,573.34. Almost the entire -population of this province is left to their care.</p> - -<p>Syen Chun was set aside as a station in 1901, when -the work in North Pyeng Yang was growing so rapidly -that it was impossible to care for it from the old center. -The territory is about three hundred miles long by one -hundred and fifty wide and includes a population of about -eight hundred thousand, of whom fully five hundred -thousand are the Presbyterian allotment, for the Methodists -located at Yeng Byen have divided this with them. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">327</span> -When this station was opened, the enrolled membership -including catechumens was 1800. There are now in -charge three married clerical missionaries, one doctor -and his wife and two single women. A new church to -accommodate fifteen hundred people has just been -erected in this town which, with a men’s Sunday School -numbering eight hundred and a women’s numbering -seven hundred thirty-three, is only a part of the results -since the station was established.</p> - -<p>The country work is divided into twenty-one circuits -and during the year twenty-four new groups have been -started. Included in this territory is the Kang Kei district -to the north east. Here there are three circuits -with three helpers, thirteen school teachers, three home -missionaries and two colporteurs, all entirely supported -by the native church.</p> - -<p>The difficulty of access and the great distance make it -imperative that a new station should be started here at -Kang Kei as the people are eager, intelligent and among -the most responsive and progressive in the province. -For this new station at least two ordained men and a -physician will be necessary.</p> - -<p>During the past year, 1906-7, this station reports 102 -churches, all self-supporting, with 4,639 communicants, -of whom 1085 were added last year and a total of adherents -of 15,348. These churches support 103 schools -with an enrolment of 2,290 pupils. The rapidly increasing -number of graduates from primary schools who demanded -further instruction and the insistence of their -parents have made it necessary to open temporary academies -in various parts of the province but these will be -now united at Syen Chun, the necessary funds having -been generously given by a Christian woman in New -York. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">328</span></p> - -<p>The two single ladies with the missionaries’ wives have -women’s work in charge which includes women’s training -classes, girls’ schools and two girls’ academies to be -opened for a part of the year.</p> - -<p>Chai Ryong station was started like Syen Chun because -the rapidly increasing work made it seem necessary -to place resident missionaries in their midst, so -this station was opened in 1905-6 with three married -clerical men and one doctor and his wife. In this city -the natives have built and paid for a new church with -a seating capacity of one thousand. The missionaries -report 98 self-supporting churches, 2,255 communicants, -of whom 417 were added during the year and 7,420 adherents. -These churches carry on 45 parochial schools -with 771 pupils. It was this district with regard to -which much that has been written in previous chapters -of this book had reference and here are some of the -oldest of the Christian communities.</p> - -<p>A summary of the missions of the Northern Presbyterian -Church in Korea shows that she is solely responsible -for six million seven hundred thousand people -and in carrying out this work she has one embryo theological -seminary, one college, three academies, three hundred -thirty-nine primary schools for girls and boys, -and here we are speaking rather of teachers and scholars -than of buildings and equipment.</p> - -<p>They have 619 self-supporting churches, carrying on -meetings in 767 places, have enrolled 15,079 communicants, -of whom 3,421 were admitted last year, giving a -total of adherents of 59,787. (The others, making about -eighty thousand, belong to the other Presbyterian -Church.) The Southern Presbyterian Church has six -hospitals and asks for two more at once and an immediate -reinforcement of missionaries. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">329</span></p> - -<p>As has been said, all the different missions of the Presbyterians -working in Korea form one united native church -of Jesus and work in every way as one mission, having a -Council of Missions meeting annually. With the consent -of the governing bodies of these missions an advance -was made in 1907, when a Presbytery was organized -to take oversight of all the Presbyterian churches -and was constituted with Dr. S. A. Moffett in the chair -at the city of Pyeng Yang on the seventeenth of September, -1907. He writes, “The Presbytery had as its -representatives elders from thirty-six fully organized -churches, at least two other churches with elders not -being represented. The Presbytery then elected its officers -and as its first work began the examination of the -seven men who had finished the theological course of five -years and proceeded to their ordination. At the night -meeting, in a very impressive service, the seven men -were ordained. The Presbytery consisted, after the ordination, -of these men, of thirty-two foreign missionaries -and forty Korean ministers and elders. It has ecclesiastical -jurisdiction over a church with 17,890 communicants, -21,482 catechumens, 38 fully organized churches, -984 churches not fully organized, adherents numbering -69,098, and day schools 402 with 8,611 pupils. This -church contributed last year for all purposes $47,113.50.”</p> - -<p>The ordained men were appointed as pastors or copastors -over groups of churches except two, one of -whom was called by the Central Church of Pyeng Yang, -and one was sent as a missionary to Quel Part, the whole -church to provide the money to send with him one or -more helpers. Thus the infant church, needing sorely -more helpers at home, sends its first foreign missionary -abroad.</p> - -<p>The Methodist Church has centered its work for North -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">330</span> -Pyeng An in the city of Yeng Byen and has divided -it into six circuits. The territory is about three hundred -miles long by one hundred fifty wide and has a population -of about eight hundred thousand, and of these at -least three hundred thousand are the Methodist allotment.</p> - -<p>There are at the present time 551 members with 405 -seekers. They have nine primary schools with 185 pupils -and for the care of all this work only one man and his -wife have been assigned.</p> - -<p>The whole allotment, then, according to division of territory, -of the Methodist mission in Korea is about three -million people to be reached. There are several hospitals -and dispensaries but not enough. The Methodist -Churches North and South have united along educational -lines in establishing the Biblical Institute of Korea -for theological instruction. The Northern Church unites -with the Presbyterian in Pyeng Yang in college and -academic work, and it has established a college at Seoul -and has a large number of primary schools that center -in a normal institute meeting annually at the capital.</p> - -<p>In the development of her evangelistic work there are -23,455 members and probationers, 16,158 seekers and -113 schools with 4,267 pupils.</p> - -<p>The Southern Methodist mission have already been -frequently referred to but their work at Song Do and -Won Son has not yet been mentioned, because it has -been the desire to speak of the work of all denominations -as far as possible together, to show the force and the -strength of the whole church of Christ in these sections -where more than one mission was at work. But, as -has already been said, the Southern Methodists have a -compact piece of territory, triangular in shape, with -Song Do, Seoul and Won Son at each apex, and Seoul -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">331</span> -being the only place where they have work with other -missions, Won Son and Song Do have not yet been mentioned.</p> - -<p>Song Do was the objective point of this mission at the -start and there they contemplate having their largest -plant. There are two married men and one single man -for evangelistic work and two clergymen, one of whom -is a Korean gentleman educated in America, for their -educational institutions, and two doctors and three single -ladies. They intend to make this city the seat of large -educational institutions for girls and boys. They have -in Song Do at present in their advanced school one -hundred and fifty students. At Won Son, the most -northeasterly point of their territory, they have two -evangelistic workers, one educational, one medical -worker and three single ladies. They have here one -city church with a large number of country churches, -a day school for boys, a boarding school for girls and a -dispensary. The last statistics of the mission show 181 -organizations with 89 churches or chapels, and 4,998 -members, who gave last year $2,380.26.</p> - -<p>The English Society for the Propagation of the Gospel -has already been mentioned. Besides their work in -Seoul they have evangelistic and medical missions at -Chemulpo and Kang Wha and a substation at Su Won. -Their workers are fine, earnest and efficient people and -we only regret that they are so few and that we have -not been able to get their statistics in time for these -chapters. We hope that although our forms of worship -are so different they and we may at no distant date be -able to enter into the same union in which we believe -every true church of our blessed Lord must come.</p> - -<p>A few incidents have been related to show the -attitude and characteristics of the native Christians, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">332</span> -the manner in which the gospel is being carried among -the Koreans. One point which is very marked is that -they consider the work their own. They do not depend -on missionaries or leaders alone to preach and spread -it abroad, but each man, woman and child feels that it is -his or her business as far as possible to “pass on the -Word.” While some of these people are ignorant, some -are well educated and some are brilliant young men -who have refused various inducements to accept high -positions in the political and mercantile world and who -are devoting their best strength and much or all of their -time at tremendous sacrifice to serve their Saviour.</p> - -<p>The attitude of the Christians everywhere is that of -joy and triumph. Purified in the cleansing fires of the -Holy Spirit during the great revivals of a year ago, they -are going forward with new enthusiasm, devotion, consecration, -aroused faith, as one man, to win and save all -their countrymen. The missionaries, too, were never so -much one in heart, thought and action, never so fully -aroused and alert, never so full of assurance and gratitude. -Not a man or woman but thanks God that they -are privileged to live at this day and work with Him in -this place and see the glorious things that He is doing. -Not one but feels certain God has far greater things in -store in the future than in the past. Not one but believes -more than ever in the power of prayer, but believes that -through prayer Korea may be, shall be won for Christ -in the near future. Pulses are quickening, blood is -tingling with the wonder and the glory of it and we ask -ourselves how it is that we, <i>we</i> are permitted to see -and hear these things. “For the wilderness and the solitary -place shall be glad for them and the desert shall -rejoice and blossom as the rose.”</p> - -<p>In the days of Moses God led His people out of Egypt -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">333</span> -and through the desert with a series of awful judgments -and wonderful miracles, and established them in -Canaan, under His own divine laws, as an object lesson -to the age of His mighty power and of His ideal of a -nation, a symbol and example to His Church. And it -looks altogether possible and probable that now, when -faith seems to be growing cold, when sceptics are so -openly questioning the power of God’s pure Gospel, He -is intending to use one of the weakest and most despised -of the peoples to illustrate what the Gospel pure and -simple can do to evangelize a whole nation. One of the -men of the New Theology asked me anxiously whether we -“were teaching the Koreans a theology that would soon -need revising.” Thank God the theology the Koreans -are being taught is not man made or man revised. -Thank God He is vindicating the “old time religion,” -the old time theology, the old time Bible, as good enough -for Korea, powerful to the pulling down of heathen -strongholds, powerful to change wicked men into good -men, heathen communities into righteous, pure and good -ones. Unto Higher Critics—a stumbling block, unto -liberal New Theologians—foolishness, but to those who -take Him simply as little children and His Word—the -power of God and the wisdom of God unto salvation, because -the foolishness of God is wiser than men, the weakness -of God is stronger than men, and He is choosing -the foolish things of the world to confound the wise; He -is choosing the weak things of the world to confound -the things that are mighty, and He is saying to the men -who stand as the Jews and Greeks of our Western -Churches, “Here is base, despised Korea. Behold what -the old Bible, the old Gospel, with the teaching of the -Spirit, received and believed, can do for her.”</p> - -<p>It is in this way the finger of God is pointing, it is -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">334</span> -in this way He is leading, and we are following after, -if we may apprehend that for which we were apprehended -by Christ Jesus; reaching forth, we press toward -the mark <i>for the prize of the high calling of God for -the whole nation of Korea</i> in Christ Jesus.<a id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">15</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15" class="label">15</a> -All the facts and statistics given in this chapter are taken from -“The Call of Korea,” by H. G. Underwood, “The Korea Field,” and -personal letters, and recollections and Mission Official Reports.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_335">335</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX</h2> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Pentecostal Blessing—Special Meetings—Prayer Answered—Confession -of Sin—Revival in Schools—Great Meetings—Bible -Study—Effects of Blessings—Transforming Power—Holy -Spirit Revival—Comparative Statement of Growth—Features -of the Great Work—Union of Christians in Korea.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The story of “How the Spirit Came to Korea” reads -more like an extract from the Acts of the Apostles than -an account of what could have happened in our modern -matter-of-fact world. More than twenty-four years ago -mission work was begun in this country, but before we -relate that story of first beginnings, let us turn to the -last page and look a little, as best we may at a distance, -and see how God had been crowning and perfecting His -work of grace there.</p> - -<p>It seems to the writer, in looking back over the history -of events for beginnings and causes, that the beginning -as far as can be told was at the conference for -prayer and consecration held by all the American missionaries -of both Methodist and Presbyterian denominations -in Seoul, August, 1904. There had then come -upon all present, unexpectedly, overwhelmingly, a powerful -impulse toward closer fellowship and entire union -in work, and the conviction that the native Church in -Korea ought emphatically to be one. Men were swept -away with an irresistible tide of enthusiasm. No one -wished or attempted to resist the mighty movement of -the Spirit. All who were present testified to the blessed -sense of the presence of the Spirit of Love. Hearts -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_336">336</span> -glowed; brother drew nearer to brother; misunderstandings, -differences, divergencies of method, of creed, -seemed trifling and insignificant; difficulties vanished -away or were brushed aside; and they voted unanimously -for a Council of Union of all the missions working -in Korea, and for a United Native Church of Christ.</p> - -<p>It was a blessed experience, but, as might have been -expected, the powers of evil would never quietly submit -without interference to a measure so calculated for their -overthrow, so in keeping with the Lord’s will, and there -forthwith sprang up in the minds of a few, difficulties, -doubts, mistrusts and hindrances. Nevertheless, a similar -meeting was held in August, 1905. A Union Council -was then regularly organized with officers and rules. -Plans were made and various committees formed to forward -and perfect the organization of one United Native -Church of Christ in the near future. Again one Spirit -seemed to fill all hearts. One impulse of holy love to -our Lord and to each other seemed to move us all to -one supreme consummation—obedience to the dying -command of the Master, and we all felt that He would -follow this with still greater blessings.</p> - -<p>In the fall of that same year, Dr. Hardie and other -missionaries of Won San received a baptism of the Holy -Spirit with power, characterized by a deep and searching -sense of sin and God’s awful holiness and majesty. -This experience was extended to the native Christians -as well, and with deep repentance came a new feeling -of peace and a greater zeal and consecration than ever -before. To the other mission stations and communities -of native Christians the news of this came, as well as -thrilling accounts of what God was doing in Wales, in -India and in other parts of the world, and a great longing -filled all souls. “Bless me, even me, also, oh, my -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_337">337</span> -Father,” was the continued cry of their longing hearts.</p> - -<p>Dr. Hardie came to Seoul and held meetings with some -of the native Christians and the missionaries. Many felt -that they had received a blessing, but there was no very -marked or general revival.</p> - -<p>At the annual meeting of our Mission, 1905, there was -one afternoon set apart for a special meeting of the -women missionaries for mutual conference as to the best -means of bringing Koreans and themselves into closer -and fuller walk with God, and to pray for renewed consecration. -It was a solemn heart-searching time. They -seemed to realize that all their efforts and prayers and -desires had hitherto been but half-hearted compared with -what they should have been, and ere they parted, they, -on their knees, joined in a mutual promise to pray by -name every day for the quickening and full sanctification -of each other. It is not possible to put into words -the deep impression made on the minds of most of the -women present by the Holy Spirit, in that little meeting.</p> - -<p>Not long after, a little printed pledge to pray daily -for the outpouring of the Spirit on the Korea missionaries, -on the native Christians and on the heathen communities, -was sent by one of the Southern Presbyterians -to each missionary in Korea to be signed and kept if he -wished. It was simply putting into definite form the -leading of the Spirit in all our hearts, a united cry, -“Bless me, even me, also, oh, my Father.” It was the -cry heard in our little circles of prayer. It was the -continued petition of our closets, the principal thought -and desire filling our conscious moments. The natives -were moved as one man with us. Some of the little -churches held nightly meetings of prayer for this blessing. -For months, even years, some had been holding -these meetings before the foreigners began. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_338">338</span></p> - -<p>The women in some of the churches met regularly to -pray for this. It was the chief theme of their requests -at all their services. How they prayed in secret none but -God knows, but each man and woman knew how he or -she was led to besiege the throne, with a spirit that -would not be denied, that with fasting and strong crying, -continued in supplication before God. It was prayer -divinely led, for even as the blessing was demanded, as -it were, the weak flesh wondered how such large things -as we were irresistibly impelled to ask could possibly be -expected. We prayed that there should be Pentecostal -outpourings; that thousands should turn to Christ; that -the great class of the nobility, (as yet untouched), so -bound down by caste, by custom and social usage, by -political requirements and family duties and bonds, -should come into the kingdom; that the church should -be spiritualized; that Koreans, intellectually converted, -should realize the hideousness of sin; and that we, natives -and foreigners, might “comprehend with all saints what -is the height and depth and breadth and length and to -know the love of Christ that passeth knowledge and be -filled with all the fulness of God.”</p> - -<p>These were the prayers that had been unitedly offered -by all the missions at the conferences held every year -since August, 1904, at the churches, native and foreign, -at family worship, in little neighborhood prayer-meetings, -in the closet and as they walked the streets or went -about their work.</p> - -<p>As has been said, the first blessings had fallen upon -Won San. The next report of which I have note is from -Mokpo, where Mr. Gerdine held services in October, -1906, twice a day for a week, from whence the report -came, saying:</p> - -<p>“The word was like a scalpel, laying bare the secret -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_339">339</span> -sins and hidden cancers of the soul. Strong men wept -like children, confessing their sins, and as they realized -the Saviour’s forgiveness and peace with God, their faces -shone and the church rang with hymns of triumph. Men -stood six deep waiting to testify of blessing received, -sins forgiven, differences healed, victory over self, and -baptism of the Spirit. From the beginning the spirit of -<i>prayer</i>, <i>intercession</i> and <i>confession</i> was poured out in -a remarkable way.”</p> - -<p>In August, 1906, a Bible and prayer conference was -held at Pyeng Yang, by the missionaries of that station, -for the deepening of their own spiritual life. Dr. -Hardie, of Won San, was present and “helped them -greatly,” and Mr. Lee writes that there was born in -their hearts the desire that God would take complete -control of their lives and use them mightily in His service. -Immediately after this, at Seoul, during the Annual -Meeting of the Presbyterian missionaries, many of -them received much blessing and aid in meeting Dr. -Howard Agnew Johnson, who had already been greatly -used in helping the Seoul missionaries. He went to -Pyeng Yang later and stirred up fervent desire in the -hearts of native Christians by telling them of the wonderful -blessing poured into India, “and from that time -natives and missionaries were praying for the blessing, -till it came,” says Mr. Lee. To one looking back over -the whole history of events, it had already begun. All -the previous fall and winter we had seen that something -wonderful was happening. A new spirit was abroad. -There was a shaking and rustling among the dry bones. -Christians were not only praying but working. Even -those who had never done much hitherto, would go out -into the country and spend several days or even weeks -at a time, preaching to unbelievers and teaching Christians, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_340">340</span> -the letters that came from other missions and other -stations in all parts of Korea to the capital as booksellers -and native helpers sent in their reports, all were of -the same nature; “Not enough books, tracts and hymn -books for those who want to buy,”—“The Bibles all -gone. Unpublished new edition all sold in advance,”—“Churches -and chapels crowded,”—“Inquirers multiplying,”—“Numbers -of baptized and newly enrolled -catechumens far in advance of any previous time,”—“Missionaries -over-worked,”—“Hospitals paying their -own running expenses better than ever before,”—“Many -new groups formed,” till our hearts thrilled and -we felt “this is surely the Lord’s doing and it is marvellous.” -God was answering the prayers of His people.</p> - -<p>In our churches the sight of the increasing crowds -every Sunday deeply stirred us. To see the throngs -which not only filled to suffocation the little buildings -but stood crowding the windows and doors, was to us -who had seen the first feeble timid beginnings of a little -handful of men and women, beyond power of description, -glorious and thrilling. We knew that this eager, -anxious throng were there because <i>Jesus of Nazareth -was passing by</i>. At every service Christians came to -the missionaries bringing those who had made their decision -for Christ; from one or two to whole families. -Idols were cast away and Christ was chosen. We could -hear the Master’s stately steppings and we felt that the -place whereon we stood was holy ground.</p> - -<p>In Pyeng Yang, fervent prayer was continually offered -for a special manifestation of God’s power, by natives -and missionaries in special daily meetings as well as in -private. Just before Christmas special noon meetings -were held by the missionaries for the Men’s Bible Training -Class. These men from the country, said by Mr. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_341">341</span> -Swallen, who had charge of the enrolment, to number -about one thousand, had come up for the winter Bible -class, from many villages and distant districts. Some had -walked many miles, most of them bringing their supplies -of rice with them. On January 6th, evening meetings -for the Class and the people of the city began in the -large Central Church which holds about fifteen hundred. -As it would have been much too small for an audience -of both sexes, it was arranged for the men only to meet -in this building and the women were asked to meet -separately in four different places, and the schoolboys -in the Academy chapel. The Central Church was full -of men every night. The meetings grew in power until -Saturday, which was best day of the whole week. -Sunday evening the expected blessing was withheld, but -on Monday night the wonderful manifestation of God’s -Presence came.</p> - -<p>It was marked, as had been those in Won San and -Mokpo, by “a spirit of prayer,” conviction of sin, confession -and intercession. Awful and overwhelming conviction -of sin was its most marked feature. Men wept, -groaned, beat their breasts, falling to the ground and -writhing in agony. Mr. Lee, speaking of one of those -who confessed said, “In a broken voice he began to -pray and such a prayer I never heard before. We had a -vision of a human heart laid bare before its God. As -he prayed, he wept. In fact he could hardly control -himself, and as he wept, the audience wept with him. -We all felt as if we were in the presence of the living -God.”</p> - -<p>Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday evenings, the same -wonderful manifestations, the same overwhelming sense -of the immediate presence of the awful glory of God. -Mr. Hunt says of them, “Two or three most earnest -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_342">342</span> -prayers were followed by such an outpouring of the -Spirit as I had never before witnessed—great strong -men, half a dozen at a time, pleading for forgiveness -and confessing their sins in great agony of spirit. From -that day on there was not a day without some new proof -of His presence with us individually and collectively. -There was public confession of sin that brought agonized -groans from the entire congregation. There were private -confessions to God which brought strong men to -tears. There were similar confessions to men, accompanied -by restoration or other real mending of wrong. -It was a time of praying such as we had never known -before. The prayer meetings were crowded. The -meetings held each evening in the big church were -crowded, men only being admitted. Whole companies -were reduced to tears. In the boys’ schools the work -spread and to those at first most sceptical came the -most bitter suffering. Between these schools had sprung -up some bitter rivalry. By reason of the Spirit’s work -among them, love and an earnest spirit of intercession -has taken its place.”</p> - -<p>On the Wednesday, Thursday and Friday the same -manifestations of power were felt in the advanced -school for girls and women, and at the Central Church -Boys’ School, which had been experienced in the men’s -meetings. On Thursday the Spirit fell on the primary -school for girls. Mrs. Bernheisel went down to the -girls’ school in the city and found the Spirit there also; -she wrote, “The Spirit of God literally fell on us, and -we couldn’t help but weep and confess our sins.” -Saturday night the power fell upon the women of the -church.</p> - -<p>“All through the class, the women had been meeting -separately,” says Mr. Lee, “but there had been no special -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_343">343</span> -manifestation among them, and it was decided to hold -special meetings for them also in the Central Church -on the Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings following. -On Saturday night the power was felt and the -women agonized over their sins and confessed as the -others had done, and on Monday and Tuesday evenings -the meetings for women being continued, God’s mighty -power continued to be manifested. So great was the -strain that one of the women became unconscious.”</p> - -<p>Mrs. Baird writes that “it was a matter of regret to -all that the Pyeng Yang college and academy was not -in session at the time of the gracious visitations described -by Mr. Lee. Several of the resident students -were led through a very wonderful experience, and on -all sides the earnest hope was expressed and the prayer -offered that the beginning of the spring term might witness -another wonderful manifestation of God’s power -and that not one of the students might be left unvisited.” -Several days before the opening of the school, “informal -prayer meetings, attended as well by several of the Korean -members of the school faculty were held in the -Principal’s study. One morning, feeling burdened, he -sought out his fellow (missionary) worker who had been -much exercised in prayer and the two knelt together and -prayed for the descent of the Spirit upon the school. It -was at that hour that the storm broke in the study. -Cries and sobs of anguish filled not only the room but -the whole house.”</p> - -<p>For two wonderful weeks the work went on among -the boys, with whom meetings were held every day at -four. “No attempt was made to lead these meetings. -Indeed, leadership would have been impossible. All -were prostrate on their faces and all alike except those -who had already received a blessing were in an agony -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_344">344</span> -of repentance. Sometimes they beat their foreheads and -heads against the floor, sometimes they literally writhed -in anguish,—then when there seemed no more power of -resistance left they would spring to their feet and with -terrible sobs and crying pour out their confessions. No -human power could have dragged these confessions to -light.”</p> - -<p>At the beginning of the school term the usual curriculum -was laid aside, the first week was devoted to -Bible study and prayer, reserving the evenings for devotional -services with the whole school. On the first -evening one young man after another sprang to his -feet and testified to a sense of pardon, peace and joy. -But these were only a small part of the three hundred -young men and boys present, and many remained “cold -and lumpish as ice.” The battle was between our God -and His forces on one hand and all the hosts of Satan -on the other. Students who had received a blessing -spent hours of every day in prayer and <i>some spent whole -nights on their faces before God</i>.</p> - -<p>At the meeting of the second evening, before ever the -leader took his place, the tide of prayer began rising -and though three young men arose one after another and -attempted to lead in prayer, their voices were not heard -in the tumult of intercessory supplication that broke -out. As prayer continued, the building began to resound -with groans and cries. Many fell forward on their faces -on the floor.</p> - -<p>At this meeting and two that followed it was noted -that while most of the Presbyterian students had been -reached, the body of Methodist students was still largely -untouched. The local Methodist preacher, an unusually -able man <i>had from the first been opposed to union in the -school or in any other way, and had used his influence</i> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_345">345</span> -<i>against it</i>. He had longed for a blessing on his people -and when it fell first on the Presbyterians was jealous -and displeased, and it was feared in several quarters -that he was using his influence both in the pulpit and the -class room to throw discredit on the movement. Special -prayer was therefore made for him by native and foreign -members of both denominations. On Friday evening the -break in the Methodist ranks began. One young man -after another, members of a band who had agreed together -that they would stand out against the prevailing -influences, gave up all pretence of resistance and cast -themselves on the Lord for mercy. At midnight there -were as many as fifty risen to their feet awaiting their -turn to confess their sins. During the evening many -threw themselves on their knees before the preacher and -confessed that they had done wrong in yielding to his -influence. Conviction seized upon him and at the close -of the meeting this proud man was weeping in the arms -of the missionaries and sobbing out penitent confessions -of coldness, wilfulness and jealousies. During the remaining -evenings there was little disposition to resist -the Holy Spirit. Then the Lord began pouring out His -blessings upon the Methodist congregations in the city -and the same wonderful manifestations were exhibited -here that had been seen elsewhere.</p> - -<p>Mr. McCune said of the men’s meetings. “The room -full of men was filled with voices lifted to God in -prayer. I am sure that most of the men in the room were -praying aloud. Some were crying and pleading God’s -forgiveness for certain sins which they named to Him -in prayer. All were pleading for the infilling of the -Holy Ghost. Although there were so many voices there -was no confusion at all. It was all a subdued perfect -harmony. I cannot explain it with words.” -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_346">346</span></p> - -<p>“We missionaries had our union meetings with the -Methodists one week before the class began. They were -a source of the richest blessing to all of us and when we -were closing Thursday evening it being suggested that -we continue the meetings for the next week or so at -noontime, we decided to do so. Daily we have been -waiting there and praying for the Holy Spirit. <i>We -have no leader for the meeting. Each one who enters -the room quietly kneels down and as he is led prays.</i>”</p> - -<p>“We find that these meetings of ours are blessed <i>just -in proportion as we spend the whole time from first to -last on our knees in prayer or proffering requests for</i> -prayer or thanksgiving, <i>precluding much conversation -or discussion</i>, even upon the progress or incidents of the -revival.”</p> - -<p>The blessing fell on both Methodists and Presbyterians, -on missionaries and natives. Mr. Noble, of the M. -E. Church of Pyeng Yang says, “We are having the -most wonderful manifestations of the outpouring of the -Holy Spirit on the native churches that I have ever seen -or heard. Perhaps there has been no greater demonstration -of Divine power since the Apostles’ days. At every -meeting the slain of the Lord are laid out all over the -church, men and women are stricken down and become -unconscious under the power of conviction. The whole -city is mourning as people mourn for their dead. Many -spend whole nights in their homes agonizing in prayer, -either for their own pardon or in behalf of others. The -people break out in spontaneous prayer. Hundreds of -voices fill the church with a murmur that has no more -discord than would the notes from so many instruments -of music.”</p> - -<p>From Syen Chun Miss Samuels writes of the coming -of the Spirit in power in January. Mr. Clark wrote -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_347">347</span> -from Seoul, “During the past month, February, the -most marvellous working of the Holy Spirit in the hearts -of Christians in this city has been the subject of daily -conversation. Revival meetings have been in progress -in all the churches. I am reminded of the history which -records the wonderful results that followed the preachings -of Whitfield and Wesley.”</p> - -<p>So the power spread like wildfire from station to station -and from little country group to group, at the -country classes and among both Methodists and Presbyterians, -time and space failing here to give extracts -from all the thrilling reports that were sent.</p> - -<p>And now what were the results of this wonderful revival? -Was it a mere wave of emotionalism? Korea -had known Christianity for many years but never before -had anything been seen like this.</p> - -<p>What results can it show as a seal to its divine origin? -“By their fruits ye shall know them,” said our Lord. -“Men do not gather grapes of thorns or figs of thistles.” -Satan does not cast out Satan, and here on all sides we -see following these revivals sinners converted, those who -had done wrong making confession and restitution of -money and goods, the churches crowded to overflowing -with inquirers and new believers, the coffers of the -Lord’s treasury filled, and men of different denominations -lovingly joining hands, putting away old jealousies, -forwarding the Lord’s kingdom shoulder to shoulder. -Let me quote again a few particular instances mentioned -by men working in different denominations in -various parts of the field.</p> - -<p>Mr. J. Z. Moore, writing to “The Korea Field,” says, -“Many incidents could be told but two must suffice. -A young man who had been a Christian for some time received -a strange new fire into his life and went to his -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_348">348</span> -parents, who were not Christians, pleading with them in -tears. They gave up keeping the saloon they had had -for twenty years and are now earnest followers of Christ. -In two large towns about a half mile apart there were -two quite strong groups. Ever since I have had the -work I have been trying to get them to unite and build -a church, but a church quarrel has always frustrated -not only our plans for the church but the Lord’s work in -that section as well. The revival came and there was -great confession in agony and tears, of pride, jealousy -and hatred, and now they are united in the building of a -large tile-roofed church. Besides the Bible study classes, -nearly every one of the larger churches and some of -the small ones have had revival services lasting from -one to three weeks. The native preachers having taken -part in the Pyeng Yang revival took the lead in -this work, <i>which has resulted in transforming churches -all over the circuit</i>. These meetings were times of -heart-searching prayer, confession of sin and restoration -and straightening up of the past in so far as was possible. -This was followed by a real sense of sins forgiven, -joy in the assurance of the new birth and baptism -of the Holy Spirit in cleansing and power for -service.”</p> - -<p>“These revivals,” he continued, “have taught me two -things. First, the Korean is at heart and in all fundamental -things at one with his brother of the West. In -the second place these revivals have taught me <i>that in -the matter of making all life religious, in prayer and in -a simple childlike trust the East not only has many -things but profound things to teach the West</i> and until -we learn those things we will not know the full-orbed -Gospel of Christ. Best of all,” he adds, “this revival -has written another unanswerable chapter of Christian -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_349">349</span> -evidences. The old gospel of the cross and the blood and -the resurrection now has become a free, full and perfect -salvation to multitudes and has taken literally hundreds -of lazy, shiftless and purposeless Koreans and -turned them into very dynamos of evangelistic power. -Not only this, but it is proven that Christianity does satisfy -the spiritual needs and hunger of the people.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Clark writes from Seoul: “The most conspicuous -thing, in the whole church life for the year was the -great Holy Spirit revival in February. The church -was shaken as never before and, purged as by fire, now -under the guidance of the Spirit they are reaching out -for others. The three city congregations were never -so much one in thought as now. It has been a beautiful -year of growing together.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Cram writes from Song Do: “I thank God that -His mighty transforming power is realized by the -Korean heart in definite expression.”</p> - -<p>Mr. McCune writes: “We have not been counting the -new believers as we did in previous years. There will -surely be in all four churches, Methodists and Presbyterian, -in Pyeng Yang, at the close of the meetings not -less than two thousand new believers, if we may judge -from the way they seem to be coming now.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Gerdine, of the Southern Methodist Mission, -wrote, September, 1906, “The past year has been one -of large increase in numbers throughout the church in -Korea. It is probable that thirty thousand new believers -have come in during that time.<a id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">16</a> Our own church has -shared in the general prosperity and advancement. This -is true not only of the district as a whole but each circuit -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_350">350</span> -will show a good increase over last year. Here -is a comparative statement of growth:</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16" class="label">16</a> -This refers to the whole Church, the 2000 above referred to being -in Pyeng Yang alone.</p></div> - -<table> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2">October</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="tdr">1905</td> - <td class="tdr">1906</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Number of societies</td> - <td class="tdr">46</td> - <td class="tdr">129</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Adult baptisms</td> - <td class="tdr">201</td> - <td class="tdr">606</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Total membership</td> - <td class="tdr">759</td> - <td class="tdr">1227</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Probationers</td> - <td class="tdr">457</td> - <td class="tdr">1694</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Applicants</td> - <td class="tdr"></td> - <td class="tdr">1712</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Total number on rolls</td> - <td class="tdr">1216</td> - <td class="tdr">4623</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="3">In 1907 there was an increase in membership of 756, in<br /> -probationers of 1331, and there were forty-seven new<br /> -churches.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>This is the growth in one church after the revival -spirit had fallen upon many of its leaders in Won San -and it has not been less wonderful in many of the -others.”</p> - -<p>Mr. J. Z. Moore says there has been a gain of at least -one third in membership over the last year, (in many -churches it has been 50 per cent).</p> - -<p>Mrs. Baird says, “The night schools in the city were -shaken. There were meetings in all the churches for -the unconverted and between twelve hundred and two -thousand came out at that time for Christ among the -Presbyterians in Pyeng Yang alone. At the meetings -of the missionaries there were sacred times, all hearts -melted in a wonderful solvent of love. Work spreads to -the country classes and churches like holy fire.”</p> - -<p>The money given by the churches of the Presbyterian -missions nearly doubled the amount contributed the -previous year.</p> - -<p>Pledges for a certain number of days of evangelistic -work have become common and at one of the Bible -classes held in Seoul, men promised in addition to other -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_351">351</span> -Christian work and precious pledges, an average of -seventeen days apiece for the coming year,—enough in -all to make one man’s entire time for six years, and the -rule is that these pledges are more than kept, most of the -people exceeding the time promised.</p> - -<p>These are simply a few of the results of this great -work of God in Korea. In every station and village, in -large cities and country districts, the fruits are being -gathered. Let those who are permitted a share in it -thank God.</p> - -<p>Before finishing this very incomplete review, there -are several features of it which should be noted.</p> - -<p>1st. It was preceded, as has been noted, for a period -of three or more years, by a constantly increasing desire -and fervent united prayer of missionaries and natives—desire -and prayer undoubtedly inspired by Him -who intended to give—for the Gift of the Spirit.</p> - -<p>2d. It simply fell upon the people waiting before -God in insistent, believing prayer, without having been -worked up in any way by exciting appeals to emotion.</p> - -<p>3d. It came to a people who, during a knowledge of -Christianity of some twenty odd years, have never had -anything of the kind in their religious life, and have -never shown signs of great excitability in their deepest -Christian experiences.</p> - -<p>4th. It was marked, everywhere the same, by a realization -of the awful blackness of sin, consequent upon an -acute sense of the immediate Presence of the terrible -Majesty of the Most High and followed by agonizing -repentance, confession and restitution.</p> - -<p>5th. Wonder and regret have been expressed at the -kind of sins confessed by some of these native Christian -people. It must be remembered that they were Christians -who had come out of heathenism with no previous -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_352">352</span> -Christian training and breeding, that they were living -surrounded by heathenism, but poorly instructed, and -some of them, no doubt, had never been more than intellectually -converted.</p> - -<p>It must be remembered also that the Apostle Paul -addressed admonitions to early Christians, whom he -evidently considered real Christians, who had had the -benefit of his inspired teaching and who had seen the -miracles, and perhaps been present at Pentecostal outpourings, -who were guilty of the darkest sins on the -calendar.</p> - -<p>Again, is it not a fact that when we come to God or -our brother and confess in a general indefinite sort of -way to general indefinite sort of sins, when nothing in -particular seems to us to be an intolerable burden of -sin, there is little genuine repentance, only a half pleasurable -sentimental feeling of regret that we are not -as perfect as we could wish? This repentance means -<i>nothing</i>. When men confess particular sins they are -really repentant. And again, one of our most well -known pastors in a large city said with deep emphasis, -when this wonder was expressed, that were the Spirit -of God to come with the same power to our American -churches, the revelations of depths of sin would not be -one whit less appalling than those in Korea.</p> - -<p>It is, however, greatly to be deprecated that those -who have heard these confessions should make them -a subject of idle gossip. They belong only to the confessor -and his God and, perchance, the one who was -wronged. It seems to the writer an awful thing to -meddle in such a matter, sacred to the Holy Ghost.</p> - -<p>6th. And this seems to the writer an intensely significant -fact. This revival was preceded, accompanied -and followed by a burning desire on the part of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_353">353</span> -great majority of all Christians of every denomination -and nationality in the country, for union, for one Church -of Christ in Korea, an uncontrollable, Heaven-inspired -conviction that there in Korea, then, at once, if possible, -the Lord’s last prayer while on earth for His Church -must be fulfilled, and that we must be one in effort, in -aim, in name, as we were already in heart, that the differences -and old worn-out historical divisions of the -Occident must not be foisted upon the Orient, that in -the words of the devoted Bishop Harris, we missionaries -had not gone across the Pacific to establish a Methodist -or a Presbyterian church, but to advance the kingdom -of the Master, that native Christians were not converted -to Presbyterianism, Methodism or any other -sect but to the Lord Jesus. This was the spirit which -preceded and followed the revival and which in Pyeng -Yang, where the power was felt by the greatest number -of people and perhaps in the most overwhelming way, -seemed more general than elsewhere, and right here -I feel impelled to quote the words of Mrs. Baird in regard -to the daily prayer-meeting of the missionaries -alone of both denominations.</p> - -<p>“<i>All denominational lines seem wiped out forever and -we wonder that we could ever have attached importance -to them or have allowed ourselves to be cramped by -them.</i>”</p> - -<p>But everywhere small jealousies have to a great extent -been put aside and a beautiful spirit of mutual love -and generosity prevails.</p> - -<p>Thus hath God wrought. He has made bare His -mighty arm and shown His mercy to one of the weakest -and most despised of the peoples, for that is His will and -way. He made His ways known unto Moses, a poor -shepherd of a despised race, His acts unto the children of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_354">354</span> -Israel, a nation of slaves, and He has glorified His Holy -Name in little, enslaved, despised Korea. “For ye see -your calling, brethren, how that not many wise men -after the flesh, not many mighty, not many noble, are -called: but God hath chosen the foolish things of the -world to confound the wise; and God hath chosen the -weak things of the world to confound the things which -are mighty; and base things of the world, and things -which are despised, hath God chosen, yea, and things -which are not, to bring to nought things that are: that -no flesh should glory in His presence.”</p> - -<h3>THE END.</h3> - -<div class="transnote"> -<h3>Transcriber's Note:</h3> - -<p>Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation are as in the original.</p> - -</div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Fifteen Years Among the Top-Knots, by -L. 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