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Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2a93464 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #51341 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/51341) diff --git a/old/51341-0.txt b/old/51341-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 980bc2f..0000000 --- a/old/51341-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6725 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Nine Thousand Miles On A Pullman Train, by Milton Shaw - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Nine Thousand Miles On A Pullman Train - An Account of a Tour of Railroad Conductors From - Philadelphia to the Pacific Coast and Return - -Author: Milton Shaw - -Release Date: March 2, 2016 [EBook #51341] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NINE THOUSAND MILES *** - - - - -Produced by Charlene Taylor, Chuck Greif, profwebs and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net -(This file was produced from images generously made -available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - - - - - [Illustration: Yours truly, - - MM Shaw] - - - - - Nine Thousand Miles - On A Pullman Train - - AN ACCOUNT - OF A - Tour of Railroad Conductors - - FROM PHILADELPHIA - TO THE - PACIFIC COAST AND RETURN - - By M. M. SHAW - - PHILADELPHIA - ALLEN, LANE & SCOTT, PRINTERS AND PUBLISHERS - Nos. 1211-13 Clover Street - 1898 - - Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1898, - BY M. M. SHAW, - In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. - - TO THE TRUE AND LOYAL WOMEN - OF OUR PARTY, - THE BELOVED AND CHERISHED COMPANIONS - OF OUR HEARTHS AND HOMES, - THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED. - - - - -INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. - - -M. M. Shaw Frontispiece. - -George W. Boyd, Assistant General Passenger Agent, -Pennsylvania Railroad Face page 6 - -Broad Street Station, Philadelphia “ 12 - -A Pullman Dining Car “ 16 - -C. E. Wyman, Chairman of the Committee “ 18 - -A Pullman Sleeping Car “ 22 - -Sang Hollow on the Conemaugh, Pennsylvania Railroad “ 28 - -At Effingham, Illinois “ 34 - -Leaving Longview Junction, Texas “ 34 - -At Fort Worth, Texas “ 36 - -O. H. Bacon, Conductor Texas and Pacific Railway “ 38 - -A Group at Van Horn, Texas “ 40 - -Tom McDonald and Fred Beach “ 40 - -Myrtle Taylor on a Bronco “ 42 - -Residence of Jacob Hand, Sierra Blanca, Texas “ 42 - -Flooded District, Alfalfa, Texas “ 52 - -Wrecked by Train Robbers on Southern Pacific Railway “ 52 - -William J. Maxwell, of the Committee “ 56 - -Col. Si Ryan “ 60 - -Arizona Landscape “ 66 - -“Yuma Bill,” Indian Chief at Yuma, over 100 years old “ 66 - -The California Poppy “ 68 - -A Cluster of Navel Oranges, California “ 72 - -Winter in Southern California “ 74 - -Brookside Avenue, Redlands, California “ 76 - -San Gabriel Mission, California “ 78 - -Giant Palms on the road to San Gabriel “ 78 - -An Avenue in Pasadena, California “ 80 - -Great Cable Incline, Mt. Lowe Railway “ 82 - -Echo Mountain House and Car on the 48 Per Cent. Grade, -Mt. Lowe Railway “ 84 - -Mt. Lowe Railway, California “ 86 - -Circular Bridge, Mt. Lowe Railway, California “ 88 - -Ye Alpine Tavern, Mt. Lowe, California “ 90 - -T. S. C. Lowe “ 92 - -George W. Brown, of the Committee “ 98 - -New Cliff House and Seal Rocks, San Francisco, Cal. “ 102 - -Parapet, Sutro Heights, San Francisco, Cal. “ 104 - -John H. Reagan, of the Committee Face page 112 - -Hercules’ Pillars, Columbia River, Oregon “ 120 - -The Columbia River “ 124 - -J. P. O’Brien, Superintendent Rail Lines, Oregon Railroad -and Navigation Company “ 126 - -Mt. Adams, Washington “ 128 - -Mt. St. Helens, from Portland, Oregon “ 128 - -Multnomah Falls, Oregon “ 130 - -Along the Columbia River “ 132 - -C Street, Tacoma, Washington “ 134 - -Bridge, Point Defiance Park, Tacoma, Washington “ 134 - -Latourelle Falls, Oregon “ 136 - -The Hobo Passenger “ 138 - -Crossing Columbia River on the Tacoma” “ 138 - -Elevator A, Tacoma, Washington “ 140 - -Shore of Lake Pend d’Oreille at Hope, Idaho “ 140 - -Spokane Falls, Spokane, Washington “ 142 - -Spokane, Washington “ 142 - -W. B. Hale, Conductor Northern Pacific Railway “ 144 - -“Dan,” Salt Lake City Railroad Station, Utah “ 154 - -Grave of Brigham Young, Salt Lake City, Utah “ 154 - -The Mormon Temple and Square, Salt Lake City, Utah “ 160 - -Chas. E. Hooper, of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad “ 166 - -Bathing Pool at Glenwood Springs, Colorado “ 168 - -In the Pool at Glenwood Springs “ 168 - -Waiter W. Terry, of the Committee “ 174 - -Colonel and Mrs. Mitchell at Marshall Pass “ 178 - -The “Committee” at Marshall Pass “ 178 - -The Royal Gorge and the Hanging Bridge, Grand Cañon -of the Arkansas “ 182 - -Ascent of Pike’s Peak by Manitou and Pike’s Peak Railroad -(cog wheel) “ 184 - -Gateway to the Garden of the Gods, Colorado; Pike’s -Peak in the Distance “ 186 - -On Pike’s Peak--Altitude, 14,147 feet “ 188 - -Bride and Groom at Balance Rock, Garden of the Gods, -Colorado “ 190 - -Manitou Springs, Colorado “ 192 - -Bachelors and Burros in the Garden of the Gods “ 196 - -Who are we? Who are we? P. P. C.! Cooks, Waiters, -and Porters of the O. R. C.!” “ 202 - -The “232.” McCook, Nebraska “ 202 - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -The writer is not sure that this work will give satisfaction to his many -friends who have asked for it; the experience of one is not the -experience of all, and many incidents will be remembered, undoubtedly, -by different members of the party that are not mentioned in these pages, -from the fact that they are unknown to the narrator, not having come -under his observation. The difficulty lies in producing an account of -our trip from personal notes that will meet the expectation of all. The -chief object of this book is to furnish interesting information relative -to the party’s whereabouts from day to day, giving the names of many -kind friends who did so much toward making our journey an interesting -and happy one, and who will ever be remembered with feelings of the -highest regard by each member of the party. The writer has no apology to -offer to critics. Geographical inaccuracies and grammatical -inconsistencies can either be accepted or overlooked, at the pleasure of -the reader, whom the author hopes will be charitable enough to believe -that he believes what he has written, whether it is true or not. - -Shortly after the meeting of the twenty-fifth session of the Grand -Division of the Order of Railway Conductors at Atlanta, Ga., in May, -1895, a few of the Pennsylvania Railroad conductors running into Broad -Street Station, Philadelphia, got together and started a movement toward -the organization of a party to visit the twenty-sixth session, in Los -Angeles, Cal., in May, 1897. Mr. Chas. E. Wyman was chosen president and -manager and Mr. Wm. J. Maxwell secretary and treasurer of the club. It -was known as the _Pennsylvania Railroad Conductors’ Excursion_. Meetings -were held from time to time to complete the organization, formulate -plans, and perfect arrangements, and George H. Holgate, Esq., president -of the Association of American Inventors, kindly gave the use of his -large, comfortable office in the Betz Building, on Broad Street, -Philadelphia, for this purpose. A friend of Manager Wyman designed an -unique and handsome card, which was submitted to Stephen Greene, Esq., -who lithographed and printed several thousand and generously presented -them to the excursion. The committee called at the clothing -establishment of Wanamaker & Brown, Sixth and Market Streets, to -purchase tourist caps for use of the party on the trip, and were -liberally provided with all they wanted, free of cost, by the kind and -generous members of the firm. The officials of the Pennsylvania Railroad -looked with favor upon the scheme, and it was largely due to their -kindly efforts and influence that the excursion was such a grand -success. Mr. George W. Boyd, Assistant General Passenger Agent, -interested himself greatly in our trip, and under his direction the -Tourist Department outlined and arranged the itinerary, which was -printed in neat form and presented to the party by Allen, Lane & Scott. -This itinerary is published in these pages in its original form, and -while the route was adhered to it will be noticed we ran about three -days late, delayed by a washout east of El Paso. - -Many of the illustrations in this book were prepared from photographs -taken by members of the party, also from photographs kindly presented to -the author by Prof. T. S. C. Lowe. We are also indebted to the Oregon -Railroad and Navigation Company, Northern Pacific Railway Company, and -Denver and Rio Grande Railroad Company for illustrations of scenery -along their lines. - -Our treatment by officers of the Pullman Company was extremely -satisfactory, their generosity being highly appreciated. To one and all -of these gentlemen who so kindly contributed toward our happiness and -pleasure the Pennsylvania Railroad Conductors’ Excursion gives, through -the writer, a rousing vote of thanks. - -M. M. S. - -[Illustration: GEO. W. BOYD, ASSISTANT GENERAL PASSENGER AGENT, -PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD COMPANY.] - - - DETAILED TIME-TABLE AND CONDENSED - - ITINERARY - - OF THE - - PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD CONDUCTORS’ TOUR - TO THE GOLDEN GATE. - - - Miles SATURDAY, MAY 8, 1897. - from -Philad’a. Via Pennsylvania Railroad. - Lv. Philadelphia, Pa. (_Eastern time_) 10.30 A.M. - 354 Ar. Pittsburgh, Pa. “ 8.15 P.M. - “ Pittsburgh, Pa. (_Central time_) 7.15 “ - Via Pennsylvania Lines. - Lv. Pittsburgh, Pa. “ 7.30 “ - - - SUNDAY, MAY 9, 1897. - - Via Pennsylvania Lines. - 728 Ar. Indianapolis, Ind. (_Central time_) 7.00 A.M. - Via Vandalia Line. - Lv. Indianapolis, Ind. “ 7.10 “ - 968 Ar. St. Louis, Mo. “ 1.40 P.M. - Via St. Louis, Iron Mountain & Southern Railway. - Lv. St. Louis, Mo. (_Central time_) 8.15 “ - - - MONDAY, MAY 10, 1897. - - Via St. Louis, Iron Mountain & Southern Railway. -1313 Ar. Little Rock, Ark. (_Central time_) 7.10 A. M. -1458 “ Texarkana, Tex. “ 12.35 P.M. - Via Texas & Pacific Railway. - Lv. Texarkana, Tex. “ 1.05 “ -1711 Ar. Fort Worth, Tex. “ 9.24 “ - - - TUESDAY, MAY 11, 1897. - - Via Texas & Pacific Railway. -2326 Ar. El Paso, Tex. (_Central time_) 9.25 “ - (At El Paso Central time changes to Pacific time, - two hours slower.) - - WEDNESDAY, MAY 12, 1897. - - Via Southern Pacific Company. - - Lv. El Paso, Tex. (_Pacific time_) 8.00 A.M. -2414 Ar. Deming, N. M. “ 11.00 “ -2638 “ Tucson, N. M. “ 7.00 P.M. - - - THURSDAY, MAY 13, 1897. - - Via Southern Pacific Company. - -3008 Ar. Indio, Cal. (_Pacific time_) 7.00 A.M. -3138 “ Los Angeles, Cal. “ 12.00 NOON. - Train to be sidetracked for occupancy. - - - MONDAY, MAY 17, 1897. - - Via Southern Pacific Company. -3138 Lv. Los Angeles, Cal. (_Pacific time_) 2.00 P.M. - - - TUESDAY, MAY 18, 1897. - - Via Southern Pacific Company. -3585 Ar. San Francisco, Cal. (_Pacific time_) 10.00 A.M. - - - THURSDAY, MAY 20, 1897. - - Via Southern Pacific Company. - Lv. San Francisco, Cal. (_Pacific time_) 7.00 P.M. - - - SATURDAY, MAY 22, 1897. - - Via Southern Pacific Company. -4357 Ar. Portland, Ore. (_Pacific time_) 7.00 A.M. - Train to be sidetracked for occupancy. - - - SUNDAY, MAY 23, 1897. - - Via Northern Pacific Railway. - Lv. Portland, Ore. (_Pacific time_) 8.45 A.M. -4501 Ar. Tacoma, Wash. “ 2.00 P.M. - Train to be sidetracked for occupancy. - Lv. Tacoma, Wash. “ 10.30 “ - (At Hope Pacific time changes to Mountain time, - one hour faster.) - Stop at Spokane two hours. - - - TUESDAY, MAY 25, 1897. - - Via Northern Pacific Railway. -5283 Ar. Helena, Mont. (_Mountain time_) 7.00 A.M. - - Via Great Northern Railway. - - Lv. Helena, Mont. (_Mountain time_) 12.00 NOON. -5355 Ar. Butte, Mont. “ 3.00 P.M. - Train to be sidetracked for occupancy. - Via Montana Union Railway. - Lv. Butte, Mont. “ 10.00 “ -5362 Ar. Silver Bow, Mont. “ 10.20 “ - Via Oregon Short Line Railroad. - Lv. Silver Bow, Mont. (_Mountain time_) 10.30 “ - - - WEDNESDAY, MAY 26, 1897. - - Via Ogden Short Line Railroad. -5752 Ar. Ogden, Utah (_Mountain time_) 11.00 A.M. - Via Rio Grande Western Railway. - Lv. Ogden, Utah (_Mountain time_) 11.00 “ -5789 Ar. Salt Lake City, Utah “ 12.00 NOON. - Train to be sidetracked for occupancy. - - - THURSDAY, MAY 27, 1897. - - Via Rio Grande Western Railway. - Lv. Salt Lake City, Utah (_Mountain time_) 9.00 P.M. - - - FRIDAY, MAY 28, 1897. - -6080 Ar. Grand Junction, Col. (_Mountain time_) 8.30 A.M. - Via Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. - Lv. Grand Junction, Col. (_Mountain time_) 9.00 “ -6169 Ar. Glenwood Springs, Col. “ 12.00 NOON. - Lv. Glenwood Springs, Col. “ 2.00 P.M. - Ar. Minturn, Col. “ 4.10 “ - “ Leadville, Col. “ 6.00 “ - Lv. Leadville, Col. “ 6.40 “ -6319 Ar. Salida, Col. “ 8.30 “ - - - SATURDAY, MAY 29, 1897. - - Via Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. - By D. & R. G. special train. - Lv. Salida, Col. (_Mountain time_) 8.00 A.M. - Ar. Marshall Pass, Col. “ 9.40 “ - Lv. Marshall Pass, Col. “ 10.20 “ -6369 Ar. Salida, Col. “ 12.00 NOON. - Lv. Salida, Col. “ 1.00 P.M. - Ar. Royal Gorge, Col. “ 2.45 “ -6511 “ Colorado Springs, Col. “ 6.00 “ - Train to be sidetracked for occupancy. - - - SUNDAY, MAY 30, 1897. - - At Colorado Springs and Manitou. - - - MONDAY, MAY 31, 1897. - - Via Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. - Lv. Colorado Springs, Col. (_Mountain time_) 2.00 A.M. -6586 Ar. Denver, Col. “ 6.00 “ - Train to be sidetracked for occupancy. - - - TUESDAY, JUNE 1, 1897. - - - WEDNESDAY, JUNE 2, 1897. - - At Denver. - - - THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 1897. - - Via Burlington Route. - Lv. Denver, Col. (_Mountain time_) 12.01 A.M. - (At McCook, Neb., Mountain time changes to Central - time, one hour faster.) - Ar. Lincoln, Neb. (_Central time_) 3.05 “ -7124 “ Omaha, Neb. “ 5.00 P.M. - Lv. Omaha, Neb. “ 6.30 “ - - - FRIDAY, JUNE 4, 1897. - - Via Burlington Route. -7632 Ar. Chicago, Ill. (_Central time_) 9.15 A.M. - Via Pennsylvania Lines. - Lv. Chicago, Ill. “ 5.40 P.M. - - - SATURDAY, JUNE 5, 1897. - - Via Pennsylvania Lines. -8100 Ar. Pittsburg, Pa. (_Central time_) 6.10 A.M. - “ Pittsburg, Pa. (_Eastern time_) 7.10 “ - Via Pennsylvania Railroad. - Lv. Pittsburg, Pa. “ 7.15 “ -8454 “ Philadelphia, Pa. “ 4.20 P.M. - - - - -LIST OF PASSENGERS. - - - MR. G. W. BROWN Philadelphia, Pa. - MRS. G. W. BROWN “ - MR. P. J. BARRETT Bristol, Pa. - MISS ANNA S. BARRETT “ - MR. J. N. CLIMENSON Philadelphia, Pa. - MRS. J. N. CLIMENSON “ - MR. I. M. COHEE “ - MRS. I. M. COHEE “ - MR. J. B. CRISPEN Renovo, Pa. - MR. JAMES DOUGHERTY Trenton, N.J. - MRS. J. DOUGHERTY “ - MR. T. J. DENNISTON Jersey City, N. J. - MR. G. W. DALE Philadelphia, Pa. - MRS. G. W. DALE “ - MR. R. T. ELDER “ - MRS. R. T. ELDER “ - MR. R. J. FOULON “ - MRS. R. J. FOULON “ - MR. C. E. FOSTER “ - MRS. C. E. FOSTER “ - MR. J. W. GOFF Camden, N. J. - MRS. J. W. GOFF “ - MR. T. B. GILLILAND Harrisburg, Pa. - MRS. T. B. GILLILAND “ - MR. M. M. HOUSTON Norristown, Pa. - MRS. M. M. HOUSTON “ - MR. W. A. HAAS Allegheny City, Pa. - MR. H. R. HAEFNER Columbia, Pa. - MRS. H. R. HAEFNER “ - MR. S. W. HORNER Philadelphia, Pa. - MRS. S. W. HORNER “ - MR. S. N. KILGORE “ - MRS. S. N. KILGORE “ - MR. T. J. MCKERNAN Jersey City, N. J. - MRS. T. J. MCKERNAN “ - MR. E. A. KALKMAN Baltimore, Md. - MRS. E. A. KALKMAN “ - MR. HUGH LEARY Norristown, Pa. - MRS. HUGH LEARY “ - MR. J. T. LAYFIELD Wilmington, Del. - MRS. J. T. LAYFIELD “ - MR. J. M. MATTHEWS Norristown, Pa. - MRS. J. M. MATTHEWS “ - MR. W. J. MAXWELL Philadelphia, Pa. - MRS. W. J. MAXWELL “ - MR. J. H. MOORE Manasquan, N. J. - MRS. J. H. MOORE “ - MR. C. J. MCCARTY Columbia, Pa. - MR. C. R. MATTSON, M.D. Philadelphia, Pa. - MRS. C. R. MATTSON “ - MR. W. H. MORRIS Wilmington, Del. - MRS. W. H. MORRIS “ - MR. ROLAND MITCHELL Baltimore, Md. - MRS. ROLAND MITCHELL “ - MR. W. H. POST Philadelphia, Pa. - MISS ELLA L. POST “ - MR. J. A. REILLY “ - MRS. J. A. REILLY “ - MR. J. H. REAGAN “ - MR. J. J. RESTEIN Delmar, Del. - MR. C. L. SPRINGER Philadelphia, Pa. - MRS. C. L. SPRINGER “ - MR. L. E. SHEPPARD Camden, N. J. - MRS. L. E. SHEPPARD “ - MR. M. M. SHAW West Chester, Pa. - MRS. M. M. SHAW “ - MR. C. H. SLOANE Philadelphia, Pa. - MR. J. G. SCHULER Pittsburgh, Pa. - MR. C. F. SMITH York, Pa. - MRS. C. F. SMITH “ - MR. D. R. SPARKS Camden, N. J. - MRS. D. R. SPARKS “ - MR. W. W. TERRY Philadelphia, Pa. - MRS. W. W. TERRY “ - MR. H. H. TAYLOR Trenton, N. J. - MR. C. E. WADDINGTON Philadelphia, Pa. - MR. OSCAR WILLIAMS “ - MR. C. E. WYMAN Moores, Pa. - MRS. C. E. WYMAN “ - MR. H. L. WILSON Glassboro, N. J. - MRS. H. L. WILSON “ - -EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE. - - C. E. WYMAN, _President and Manager_. - WM. J. MAXWELL, _Secretary and Treasurer_. - - GEORGE W. BROWN, JOHN H. REAGAN, - WALTER W. TERRY. - -[Illustration: BROAD STREET STATION, PHILADELPHIA.] - - - - -PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD CONDUCTORS’ EXCURSION TO CALIFORNIA. - - -SATURDAY, MAY 8th, 1897. - -The hands on the large clock that denotes the standard time in the great -corridor of Broad Street Station, Philadelphia, point to the hour 10 A. -M.; an unusual commotion is noticed in the mammoth train shed, which in -any hour of the day or night is filled with trains loading and -discharging their cargoes of human freight, ever presenting a scene of -hustling, bustling activity. The unusual commotion referred to is caused -by the departure of the _Pennsylvania Railroad Conductors’ Excursion to -California_. Fully one thousand friends and relatives have gathered on -the extensive train platform to see them off; thirty minutes of -promiscuous kissing, hugging, tears, smiles, hand shaking, and -good-byes, then “all aboard,” and at 10.30 A. M. the five-car vestibule -train rolls out over the elevated tracks bound for a journey of 9,000 -miles. The notebook crank and the kodak fiend are aboard, and it is -hoped that it will not be regretted that they have come. The kodak -fiends are Bros. Ed. Foster, Joe Ristein, and Billy Haas, who succeed in -getting some very good snaps at the train before starting, and the Lord -only knows what else was snapped at, for the snapping was kept up almost -continually for the next thirty-one days. The notebook crank is the -writer, who, with the ever-present notebook in hand, starts in after the -train starts to make an inventory of the outfit. - -The first person encountered is the good-looking and gentlemanly train -conductor, W. E. Bostick, who volunteers the information that the train -is running as second No. 25 over the Philadelphia Division, Philadelphia -to Harrisburg; that it gives him great pleasure to run the train, for he -considers it a mark of honor. We are drawn by P. R. R. engine No. 31, in -charge of Engineer J. Stroh, and fired by C. B. Lewis. Next to the -engine is parlor combined car No. 4808, with baggage end loaded with -sixty-two pieces of baggage, two barrels, and thirty-two cases of -nourishment, in charge of George H. Anderson, the colored janitor of the -conductors’ room in Broad Street Station, Philadelphia, who, because of -his well-known character for faithfulness, honesty, and good nature, is -taken along, and placed in the responsible position of baggage master -and general cork extractor. The smoking end of the car is furnished with -twelve movable parlor chairs and two tables, and the floor is covered -with Brussels carpet. The Pullman dining car “Lafayette,” in charge of -Dining-car Conductor Mr. Tom McDonald, comes next. - -Introducing myself to Mr. McDonald, I find him a very agreeable -gentleman, who kindly gives me what information I want, also a bill of -fare. The latter makes my mouth water in anticipation of what I may -expect when the dinner hour arrives. This is what with keen appreciation -and fast increasing appetite I read:-- - - - ORDER OF RAILWAY CONDUCTORS’ SPECIAL. - - _EN ROUTE_ TO LOS ANGELES AND RETURN. - - PULLMAN DINING CAR SERVICE. - - May 8th, 1897. - - - DINNER. - - OX JOINTS. CONSOMME. - CUCUMBERS. OLIVES. - BOILED HALIBUT. EGG SAUCE. - PARISIENNE POTATOES. - BOILED LEG OF MUTTON. CAPER SAUCE. - APPLE FRITTERS. WINE SAUCE. - PRIME ROAST BEEF. -ROAST LONG ISLAND SPRING DUCK. APPLE SAUCE. - MASHED POTATOES. BOILED NEW POTATOES. - BOILED ONIONS. BEETS. NEW GREEN PEAS. - TOMATO SALAD AU MAYONNAISE. - BREAD PUDDING. COGNAC SAUCE. - ICE CREAM. PRESERVED FRUITS. -ASSORTED CAKE. MARMALADE. DRY CANTON GINGER. - ENGLISH AND GRAHAM WAFERS. FRUIT. - ROQUEFORT AND EDAM CHEESE. BENT’S BISCUIT. - CAFÉ NOIR. - -“Mr. McDonald,” says I, “I do not doubt your ability to feed us as per -bill of promise, but I am curious to know where you keep all this -material and how you prepare it for the table?” “It is easily explained; -I will show you,” is the reply. “Built here in this end of the car is a -large cupboard refrigerator in which can be stored a large amount of -stuff, underneath the car are two large ice chests in which can be -placed several hundred pounds of meat, and on top of the car you will -find a large tank containing many gallons of water. In the other end of -the car you will find the kitchen, where the victuals are prepared, and -the sideboard containing the dishes and other ware belonging to the -dining car. If it were necessary to do so, we could stock this car with -material enough at one time to last a party of one hundred persons one -week; but ordinarily we lay in but a limited amount, as provisions or -other material is furnished as needed from the Pullman supply stations -_en route_, thus we can always have it good and fresh.” - -“You seem to have lots of help,” I remarked, as I noticed nine or ten -neat, gentlemanly-looking mulattoes in their snow-white coats and aprons -bustling about the car. - -“Yes, I am pleased to say that you can expect excellent service from the -cooks and waiters in this car. Mr. Martin and Mr. Bostwick, of the -Pullman palace car service, have kindly furnished me with men of which -it can be said there are no better in the service.” “Can you give me -their names?” “Certainly; the cooks are: _Chief_, R. W. Moore; -_assistants_, H. F. Robinson, T. Allen, F. L. Litt; _waiters_, W. Hill, -A. Beard, O. Fisher, C. Coleman, C. Jackson. We have ten tables in the -car, each table seats four, which enables us to accommodate forty -persons at a time. Each waiter has been assigned his place, knows just -what he has to do, and while there may at times be a little delay in -filling orders, there is never any confusion.” - -“There is another thing,” continues Mr. McDonald, “which no doubt you -will notice, and that is our strict adherence to the law of cleanliness. -If there is one rule of the dining-car service more imperative than -another, it is the one that declares that everything must be clean. The -coats and aprons of the waiters must be pure and spotless as an angel’s -robe, napkins and table linen must - -[Illustration: A PULLMAN DINING CAR.] - -never be used the second time, no matter how little soiled. This is a -rule that at all times must be rigidly enforced, and it would cost me my -situation to allow it to be violated.” - -Thanking Mr. McDonald for his kind information, I turn my back on the -“Lafayette” for the time being, entirely convinced that a first-class -fully-equipped dining car is the greatest wonder that ever went on -wheels. - -Next to the “Lafayette” I find the sleeper “Marco.” I also find as I -emerge from the narrow passageway, which is an unavoidable nuisance in -all Pullman cars, the genial, good-natured, and good-looking -sleeping-car conductor, Miles H. Suter, who has charge of the three -Pullman sleepers that are on the train. - -“Mr. Suter,” I said, “the Pullman people have given us a fine train.” - -“Yes,” he replied. “There are no more substantial or more comfortable -cars in the Pullman service than these. In one of them a person can ride -many hundreds of miles and not become fatigued. You will find the motion -of these cars very agreeable and easy. They were selected for this trip -because of this admirable qualification, and as far as ease and comfort -goes I predict for your party a very pleasant tour. Another thing,” -continued Mr. Suter, “I have already noticed, which will contribute much -to your comfort, and which is lacking in most excursion parties, is that -you have plenty of room, and so are not crowded. The gentlemen who have -arranged the excursion deserve a great deal of credit for the excellent -judgment they have exercised in not having too many or too few, but just -enough. There are no vacancies and no one is crowded. It was also wise -to have no children along, for little folks often need attention that -cannot be given them on a journey of this kind, and their mothers need -rest instead of the worriment that comes from having the care of little -ones on their hands.” - -“Mr. Suter,” I remarked, as a genteel colored man in a neat uniform come -through the car, “it must be a very laborious task when night comes for -one man to convert all these seats into beds, and in the morning change -them back again.” - -“Yes, it seems like a great deal of work, but an experienced porter will -soon make the change. I have three good men, one to each car, and you -have only to watch Dennis Jackson in the ‘Marco,’ Dick Pettus in the -‘Milton,’ or George Custis in the ‘Orchis,’ making up the berths, to be -convinced that by a man who understands the business the work is more -quickly and easily accomplished than one would suppose possible. -Everything must be kept clean and tidy, pillow-cases and sheets changed -daily, and towels used but once. Every time a towel is used a clean one -takes its place. Cleanliness is an important rule in the Pullman -service, and we are obliged to strictly enforce it.” - -Thanking Mr. Suter for his kind information I turn my attention to the -occupants of the car. State room A is occupied by Conductors Suter and -McDonald. - -Section 1 by Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Horner. Brother Horner is a member of -West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the New York -Division. Mrs. Horner is a member of Erickson Division No. 5, L. A. - -Section 2 by Colonel and Mrs. John T. Layfield. Brother Layfield is -secretary and treasurer of Wilmington Division No. 224, and a conductor -on the Delaware - -[Illustration: C. E. WYMAN, CHAIRMAN OF THE COMMITTEE.] - -Division; he served on the staff of Governor Benjamin Biggs of Delaware -several years ago, thus earning the title of colonel. - -Section 3 by Mr. and Mrs. M. M. Shaw. Brother Shaw is P. C. C. of West -Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the Central Division. - -Section 4 by Mr. and Mrs. Charles E. Wyman. Brother Wyman is a member of -Wilmington Division No. 224, and a conductor on the Maryland Division; -he is president and manager of the excursion and has worked to make it a -success. - -Section 5 by Mr. and Mrs. John A Reilly. Brother Reilly is a member of -West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the Maryland -Division. Mrs. Reilly is a member of Erickson Division No. 5, L. A. - -Section 6 by Mr. and Mrs. William J. Maxwell. Brother Maxwell is a -member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the New -York Division; he is secretary and treasurer of 162, also of the -excursion, and works hard in the interest of the same. Mrs. Maxwell is a -member of Erickson Division No. 5, L. A. - -Section 7 by Mr. and Mrs. Charles L. Springer. Brother Springer is a -member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the -Philadelphia Division. Mrs. Springer is a member of Erickson Division -No. 5, L. A. - -Section 8 by Mr. and Mrs. George W. Brown. Brother Brown is A. C. C. and -a trustee of West Philadelphia Division No. 162; he is a member of the -excursion executive committee, and has the welfare of the party at -heart. Mrs. Brown is a member and president of Erickson Division No. 5, -L. A. - -Section 9 by Mr. and Mrs. George W. Dale. Brother Dale is a member of -West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the New York -Division. - -Section 10 by Mr. and Mrs. Walter W. Terry. Brother Terry is a conductor -on the New York Division, and a member and trustee of West Philadelphia -Division No. 162; he is a member of the excursion executive committee, -the heavyweight of the party, whose herculean strength and sound -judgment can always be relied upon. - -Section 11 by Mr. and Mrs. James M. Matthews. Brother Matthews is a -member and a P. C. C. Conductor of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, -and a conductor on the Schuylkill Division. - -Section 12 by Brothers John H. Reagan and Charles J. McCarty. Brother -Reagan is a member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a -conductor on the Maryland Division; he is a member of the excursion -executive committee, and is keenly alive to all that pertains to the -welfare and pleasure of the party. Brother McCarty is a member of -Susquehanna Division No. 331, and a conductor on the Frederick Division. -Brothers Reagan and McCarty enjoy the freedom of bachelorship, and are -general favorites with the ladies. - -Drawing room 13 is occupied by Colonel and Mrs. Mitchell. Brother -Mitchell is a member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a -conductor on the Maryland Division; he is well known as a genial, -good-hearted fellow, and was given the title of “Colonel” several years -ago by his associates because of his entertaining and hospitable -disposition. - -Leaving the “Marco” with its happy occupants, whose comforts will be -looked after by the polite and attentive porter, Dennis Jackson, I -passed through the vestibule into the next car, “Milton,” which I found -similar in almost every respect to the “Marco.” Meeting the porter, -stalwart, good-natured Dick Pettus, I informed him that I had visited -the “Milton” in order to obtain the position and names of the occupants. - -“I’m not much acquainted with anybody yet,” replied Dick, “but don’t -think I’ll have any trouble, as everybody seems to be all right and -happy.” - -“Yes,” I answered, as I took a glance at the occupants of the car, “you -will find them all first rate people, and all right in the daytime, but -be careful and keep the doors locked and your eye on them at night, for -there are two or three in this car who are afflicted with somnambulism, -and they might walk off the train or get into the wrong berth while in -such a condition.” “Good Lord,” was Dick’s reply as he vanished into the -toilet room. I find the state room in the “Milton” reserved for a -hospital. It is hoped it will not be needed for such a purpose. - -Section 1 is occupied by Mr. and Mrs. J. W. Goff. Brother Goff is a -member of Camden Division No. 170, and a conductor on the West Jersey -and Seashore Division. - -Section 2 by Mr. and Mrs. H. L. Wilson. Brother Wilson is a member of -Camden Division No. 170, and a conductor on the West Jersey and Seashore -Division. - -Section 3 by Mr. and Mrs. Thomas B. Gilliland. Brother Gilliland is a -member of Dauphin Division No. 143, and a conductor on the Middle -Division. Mrs. Gilliland is a member of Keystone Division No. 47, L. A. - -Section 4 by Mr. and Mrs. L. E. Sheppard. Brother Sheppard is a member -of Camden Division No. 170, and a yardmaster on the Amboy Division. -Mrs. Sheppard is a member of Erickson Division No. 5, L. A. - -Section 5 by Mr. and Mrs. S. N. Kilgore. Brother Kilgore is a member of -West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the Philadelphia -Division. - -Section 6, Mr. and Mrs. D. R. Sparks. Brother Sparks is a member of -Camden Division No. 170, and a conductor on the West Jersey Division. - -Section 7 by Mr. and Mrs. E. A. Kalkman. Brother Kalkman is a member of -Capitol Division No. 378, and a conductor on the Maryland Division. - -Section 8 by Mr. and Mrs. W. H. Morris. Brother Morris is a member of -Wilmington Division No. 224, and a conductor on the Maryland Division. - -Section 9 by Mr. and Mrs. C. E. Foster. Brother Foster is a member of -West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the Maryland -Division. - -Section 10 by Mr. and Mrs. I. M. Cohee. Brother Cohee is a member of -Wilmington Division No. 224, and a conductor on the Maryland Division. - -Section 11 by Mr. and Mrs. James Dougherty. Brother Dougherty is a -member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the New -York Division. - -Section 12 by Mr. and Mrs. James H. Moore. Brother Moore is a member of -West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the New York -Division. - -Drawing room by Doctor and Mrs. C. E. Mattson. Brother Mattson is a -member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the -Maryland Division; he is a graduate of Jefferson Medical College, and -has quite an extensive practice, to which he devotes his time when not -engaged in his duties on the road. - -[Illustration: A PULLMAN SLEEPING CAR.] - -Brother Mattson has kindly consented to give the party his professional -care while on the trip, if needed, but it is earnestly hoped that there -will be but a very few occasions for an exercise of his professional -skill and that his labors in this direction will be light. - -Entering the “Orchis,” the fifth and last car on the train, I found the -polite and obliging porter, George Custis, busily engaged in the duties -pertaining to his position. His passengers all looked comfortable and -George looked happy. - -“George, do you like fun?” I quietly asked as he passed near me to -deposit a huge telescope valise in the state room. “Yes, sir; somewhat,” -he replied, with a questioning look in his eye. “You will have a circus -on your hands, my boy, or I fail to read the combination,” I added, as -he emerged from the state room. I had glanced down the line as I entered -the car and noticed among the occupants some well-known characters for -fun and frolic, and conclude there is a picnic in store for the porter -and passengers of the sleeper “Orchis.” - -Turning now to the business that brought me to the “Orchis,” I find that -the state room is occupied by Messrs. Charles Sloane and William Haas. -Brother Sloane is a member of Quaker City Division No. 204, and a -conductor on the Philadelphia Division; he is the _Nimrod_ of the party, -and has come equipped with fishing tackle and rifle. He is well -acquainted with some of the best hunting grounds in the West, and is -familiar with the haunts and habits of bear and deer. Brother Haas is a -member of R. B. Hawkins Division No. 114, and a conductor on West Penn -Division; he has a kodak with which he expects to secure some -interesting views. Brothers Sloane and Haas enjoy the privileges and -liberties of single-blessedness, but are not averse to the society of -ladies. - -Section 1 by Messrs. Joseph Schuler and John B. Crispen. Brother Schuler -is a member of R. B. Hawkins Division No. 114, and a conductor on the -Pittsburgh Division. Brother Crispen is secretary and treasurer of -Renovo Division No. 333, and a conductor on the Middle Division, -Philadelphia and Erie Railroad. He is a bachelor, young in years, and -inclined to be shy in the presence of the ladies. - -Section 2 by Messrs. T. J. Denniston and J. J. Restein. Brother -Denniston is a member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a -conductor on the New York Division; he is a bachelor, arrived at the -years of discretion, cautious and modest in his habits, an excellent -conversationalist, whose companionship is appreciated and enjoyed by -all. Brother Restein is a member of Wilmington Division No. 224, and a -conductor on the New York, Philadelphia and Norfolk Railroad. He keeps -his kodak always handy, for it is his purpose to try to obtain some of -the best views of incidents and scenery on the trip. - -Section 3 by Mr. and Mrs. Robert T. Elder. Brother Elder is a member of -West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the New York -Division. - -Section 4 by Mr. and Mrs. Hugh Leary. Brother Leary is a member of West -Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the Schuylkill -Division; he has been but a few days married, and both bride and groom -receive the congratulation of many friends in being so fortunate as to -be able to take such an enjoyable wedding tour. May sunshine, health, -and happiness be ever theirs. - -Section 5 by Mr. P. J. Barrett and his sister, Miss Anna S. Barrett. -Brother Barrett is a member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a -conductor on the New York Division. Being a single man, he had no wife -to accompany him, but he did the next best thing and brought his sister, -a commendable act that redounds to Brother Barrett’s credit. A man that -is good to his sister will be good to a wife. Mark it! - -Section 6, Mr. William H. Post and daughter, Miss Ella L. Post. Brother -Post is a member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor -on the New York Division. Mrs. Post being unable, on account of ill -health, to accompany the excursion, permitted her daughter to take her -place, a privilege the young lady highly appreciates and enjoys. - -Section 7, Mr. and Mrs. J. N. Climenson. Brother Climenson is a member -of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the -Philadelphia Division. - -Section 8, Mr. and Mrs. R. J. Foulon. Brother Foulon is a member and P. -C. C. of Quaker City Division No. 204, and a conductor on the -Philadelphia Division. - -Section 9, Mr. and Mrs. H. R. Haefner. Brother Haefner is C. C. of -Susquehanna Division No. 331, and a conductor on the Philadelphia -Division. - -Section 10, Mr. and Mrs. C. F. Smith. Brother Smith is a member of -Susquehanna Division No. 331, and a conductor on the Frederick Division. - -Section 11, Mr. and Mrs. T. J. McKernan. Brother McKernan is a member of -Neptune Division No. 169, and assistant passenger yardmaster at Jersey -City. - -Section 12, Mr. and Mrs. M. Houston. Brother Houston is S. C. of West -Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the Schuylkill -Division. Mrs. Houston is a member of Erickson Division No. 5, L. A. - -Drawing room, Messrs. C. E. Waddington, O. Williams, and H. H. Taylor. -Brother Waddington is C. C. of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a -conductor on the New York Division; Brother Williams is a member of West -Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the Maryland Division; -Brother Taylor is a member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a -conductor on the New York Division. Brothers Waddington and Williams are -unmarried, but it is not known for how long. We can only wait and see. - -On the rear platform stood Brakeman T. M. Tobin, who was selected by -Trainmaster Simms to accompany Conductor Bostick as flagman because of -his well-known adherence to the rules that govern this important -position. We are spinning along at about a fifty mile per hour rate of -speed, and have passed through some of the finest farming country in the -world. A “fleeting view” is all we get, but one glance is sufficient to -show us fine, substantial buildings and fences in good repair and men -busily engaged in preparing the soil for the reception of seed. - -We have passed the city of Lancaster and are nearing Harrisburg. Dinner -has been announced, and I retrace my steps to the dining car to find the -tables filled. Although hungry I console myself with the thought that -“there are others, lots of others,” and that in my misery I had lots of -company. In the meantime I avail myself of the opportunity of -ascertaining who our guests are, as a number of gentlemen accompanied -us from Philadelphia. - -Glancing up the line of tables, I see Trainmasters Frank Carlisle of the -Maryland, James G. Ruth of the Central, Walter B. Gormley of the -Schuylkill, and Rees L. Hannum of the Delaware Extension and Kensington -Divisions; Yardmasters L. H. Smith, Kensington, and Anthony Hughes, -Fifteenth and Washington Avenue, and George Stults, assistant secretary -of West Philadelphia Division No. 162. They seem to be having a good -time, and are all bravely battling with Jersey mutton and Long Island -spring duck. - -In the centre of one of the tables is a magnificent bouquet of choice -flowers, presented to the party in Philadelphia by Messrs. Myers & -Lautman, florists, of Wyndmoor, Chestnut Hill. It is much admired by all -for its beauty and fragrance. As the tables became vacant they were -rapidly filled up by those in waiting, and it was not long until the -entire party had partaken of a dinner that was admitted by all to be -hard to beat, and a credit to Conductor McDonald and his competent and -obliging help. - -At 1.22 P. M. we arrived at Harrisburg, where a short stop of eight -minutes was made in changing engines. We bid adieu to our guests, -receiving from them many congratulations and compliments as to our -outfit and prospects, and best wishes for a happy trip and safe return. -The jovial trainmaster of the Central Division, as he bade us goodbye, -said: “You people could not travel in better form or fare better if you -were a party of millionaires. I am sure you will have a good time.” - -Whole-souled, big-hearted Frank Carlisle heaved a great sigh as he -shook hands with Manager Wyman and Colonel Mitchell, and with a tear in -his eye murmured, “Boys, I wish I could go with you.” Walt Gormley and -George Stults turned their backs on the crowd to hide their emotion as -“all aboard” rang out, and the last seen of “Tony” Hughes he was -struggling in the grasp of Lew Smith and Rees Hannum, who had to hold -him to prevent him from boarding the now fast-receding train, they -knowing full well that business at Fifteenth and Washington Avenue would -suffer did they not take “Tony” back with them. - -It was just 1.30 P. M. when we left Harrisburg, drawn by P. R. R. engine -No. 32, handled by Engineer John Ficks and fired by Jesse Reynolds. -Conductor A. W. Black had charge of the train from Harrisburg to -Altoona, with Flagman J. S. Wagner and Brakeman A. Gable. W. Brooke -Moore, trainmaster of the Middle Division, was a guest on the train from -Harrisburg to Altoona. We arrived at Altoona 4.50 P. M. and left at 4.57 -P. M. with P. R. R. engine No. 867, Engineer F. W. Masterson, Fireman E. -W. Pugh, Conductor W. B. Chislett, Flagman Frank Bollinger, Brakemen -John Cline and C. D. Chamberlain. As guests we had C. W. Culp, -trainmaster Pittsburgh Division, and D. M. Perine, assistant master -mechanic, of Altoona, who accompanied the party to Pittsburgh. - -Six miles west of Altoona we reach Kittanning Point and circle round the -famous Horseshoe Curve. From this point a magnificent view of Alleghany -Mountain scenery can be seen. Nine miles further and we reach the -highest elevation on our trip across the Alleghanies and pass Cresson, a -beautiful summer resort, the - -[Illustration: SANG HOLLOW ON THE CONEMAUGH.] - -location of the noted “Mountain House,” whose marvelous reputation for -rates and rations attracts the _bon-ton_ patronage of the world. - -We now enter the Conemaugh country and note its picturesque hills and -mountain ridges, among which winds and wriggles the historic Conemaugh -River, which at present seems but little more than a harmless, babbling -brook; but when the rains fall and the snows melt, and this sparkling -little creek receives the waters from a hundred hills, it becomes a very -demon in its resistless fury. For eight miles we have followed this -stream and part company with it as we pass through the city of -Johnstown. Johnstown will ever remember the Conemaugh River, flowing as -it does through the very centre of the city. It is a constant menace to -the tranquillity and security of the people, and in yonder hillside -cemetery two thousand glistening tombstones bear sad and silent -testimony to the awful horrors of a Conemaugh flood. - -It has grown dark and we are approaching Pittsburgh. A stop is made at -East Liberty, and a delegation of brothers from R. B. Hawkins Division -No. 114 of Pittsburgh get aboard and accompany us into Pittsburgh. The -visitors kindly present each one of our party with a bouquet of roses. -We arrive at Pittsburgh 8.12 P. M. and stop for eighteen minutes, -leaving at 8.30 (7.30 Central) P. M. Time changes now from Eastern to -Central, which makes us leave at 7.30 instead of 8.30. To some of us -this is rather a perplexing thing, for we are leaving Pittsburgh -forty-two minutes before we arrive there. A number of our party are -setting their watches to Central time, I will allow mine to remain as -it is, and will use Eastern time in my notes in connection with the -Standard time of whatever locality we may be in. - -Left Pittsburgh with P. C. C. & St. L. engine No. 183, Engineer A. F. -Winchell, Fireman O. Brown, who runs us to Dennison, Ohio, 93 miles. -Conductor L. E. Schull, Brakemen W. A. Chambers and E. S. Chambers go -with us to Columbus, Ohio, 193 miles. We almost regret that it is night, -for we desire to see the country. At 9.50 (8.50 Central) P. M. we arrive -at Steubenville, 43 miles from Pittsburgh, and stop five minutes for -water. - -We are now on the Pittsburgh Division of the Pennsylvania lines, -operated by the Pittsburgh, Cincinnati, Chicago and St. Louis Railway -Company. The Pittsburgh Division extends from Pittsburgh, Pa., to -Columbus, Ohio, a distance of 193 miles. Most of the party have turned -in and at 11.30 (10.30 Central), just as our train stops at Dennison, -Ohio, I prepare to undertake the novel experiment of trying to get a -night’s sleep in the berth of a Pullman car. It is a new and strange -experience to me, but I go at it to win. There is nobody in sight, but -the presence of a carload of people is felt. The long, narrow aisle of -the car is deserted, but I hesitate to exercise the privilege its -deserted condition would seem to warrant. I desire to undress, but I -wish to hide to do it, and with this end in view I crawl under the -curtains that inclose our berth. As I do so the train starts on its way -again. Mrs. S. has retired some time ago, and I think is asleep. There -is not much room for me, but I determine to make the best of it. -Balancing myself on the edge of the berth, I make a few changes in my -apparel, and come very near being precipitated into the aisle while so -doing by a sudden lurch of the car as the train struck a curve. In -regaining my equilibrium I stepped upon the madam, who quietly inquired -what I was trying to do. “Only coming to bed, my dear,” I answered. “Is -that all,” she replied, “I have been watching you for some time and -thought you either had a fit or else was practicing gymnastics and using -the curtain pole for a horizontal bar.” I made no reply, I didn’t blame -her, and lay down thankful that she was the only witness to the -performance; and ours was not the only circus on the train that night; -“there were others.” - - -SUNDAY, MAY 9th. - -Got up early, after passing rather a restless night; did not sleep very -well; finished dressing just as the train stops at Richmond, Ind., 5.55 -(4.55 Central) A. M. Go outside and find it a lovely morning. Several of -the boys are up. Have come 220 miles since I turned in last night as the -train left Dennison, Ohio. - -We are now on the Indianapolis Division of the Pittsburgh, Cincinnati, -Chicago and St. Louis Railway, which runs from Columbus, Ohio, to -Indianapolis, Ind., a distance of 188 miles. Upon inquiry I learn that -from Dennison to Columbus we had P. C. C. & St. L. engine No. 59, -Engineer Schultz. From Columbus to Indianapolis, P. C. C. & St. L. -engine No. 102, Engineer John Cassell, Fireman W. Mason, Conductor J. E. -Taylor, Brakemen Orvil Hyer and George Farmer. We arrive at Indianapolis -7.45 (6.45 Central) A. M., and leave there at 8.30 (7.30 Central) A. M. -on the Main Line Division of the Vandalia Line, which extends from -Indianapolis to St. Louis, a distance of 240 miles, and is controlled -and operated by the Terre Haute and Indianapolis Railroad Company. T. H. -& I. engine No. 34 is drawing us. It is called the World’s Fair engine, -having been built at Pittsburgh and placed on exhibition at Chicago -during the great exposition. It is a fine, large engine, and Engineer -Fred. Wood, who runs it, says “she is a daisy.” The fireman is G. E. -Hickman; conductor, A. J. Harshman; brakemen, J. G. McMahon and James -Edmunds. Breakfast is announced as we leave Indianapolis, and no second -invitation is required; our appetites are keen, and we thoroughly enjoy -McDonald’s substantial and bountiful breakfast. - -We pass through Terre Haute at 10.15 (9.15 Central) A. M., and cross the -Wabash River a short distance west of the city. Ten minutes after -passing through Terre Haute we cross the State line and enter Illinois. -There is a delay of five minutes at Effingham by a hot box on engine 34. -Just after leaving Effingham a stone was thrown by some one and broke an -outside window in car “Milton,” section 4, occupied by Mr. and Mrs. L. -E. Sheppard. A stop of five minutes is made at Greenville to oil and -take water. Three strange men boarded the train at this point and were -not noticed until after it had started, when they claimed they had made -a mistake, thinking it a regular train. The train was stopped to leave -them off. We partook of lunch at 1.15 (12.15 Central) P. M., being -always ready to eat. - -It is raining as we approach St. Louis, where we arrive at 2.30 (1.30 -Central) P. M. The effects of last Summer’s terrible tornado can plainly -be seen, as we cross the bridge from East St. Louis, in great piles of -_débris_ that have not as yet been cleared away. On account of the rain -the prospect of seeing much of the city is very poor. A trolley ride of -five miles through the city to Forrest Park was taken by a number of our -party. It is too wet to take a walk in the park, and after spending a -half hour in a large pavilion watching the pouring rain we return to the -Union Depot, which we look through and find it to be a large and -magnificent structure, exceeding in size and excelling in grandeur our -own Broad Street Station at Philadelphia. It was built at an expense of -$6,500,000, and covers an area of 424,200 square feet. The train shed -contains thirty tracks, which are used by twenty-two different roads. - -Several of us met Conductor W. Fetzer, of the Louisville and Nashville, -and had a pleasant half hour with him. On account of a defective flange, -a pair of new wheels were put under the dining car “Lafayette” this -afternoon. Mrs. Shaw, Mrs. Dale, Mrs. Reilly, and Miss Post are on the -sick list this afternoon. Called to dinner at 8.30 (7.30 Central) P. M., -after which we were escorted through the magnificent station by -Stationmaster J. J. Coakley and Conductor A. J. Harshman. The station is -lighted with thousands of electric lights of many different hues and -colors. Every light is burning to-night, the second time since the -construction of the station, the first time at its dedication, September -1st, 1894, and this the second time in honor of the visit of the -Pennsylvania Railroad conductors, May 9th, 1897. Our most sincere thanks -are due the kind and courteous stationmaster, J. J. Coakley, for the -favor and honor accorded us. May his shadow never grow less. - -An itinerary souvenir of our train over the Iron Mountain Route, Texas -and Pacific and Southern Pacific Railways, from St. Louis to Los -Angeles, via Texarkana and El Paso, was presented to each member of our -party by the Iron Mountain Route management through Mr. Coakley. It is a -neat little affair, much appreciated, and will be highly prized as a -souvenir of our trip. - -At 9.15 (8.15 Central) P. M. our train rolled out of the Grand Union -Depot over the Iron Mountain Route, which extends from St. Louis to -Texarkana, a distance of 490 miles. St. L. I. M. & S. engine No. 630 is -drawing us, with Engineer John Hayes at the throttle, Fireman J. E. -Schader, Conductor W. Hall, Brakeman J. L. Thompson, and Baggagemaster -M. Madison. We have this engine and crew to Poplar Bluff, 166 miles, -with the exception of the baggagemaster, who goes through to Texarkana. -There is an inquiry for Brother Reagan; he has not been seen since -leaving St. Louis. Our hearts are filled with consternation and alarm, -for we believe he has been left, and how can we get along without “Jack; -good, jolly, jovial Jack.” Maxwell’s eyes are dimmed with tears of -sorrow, and McCarty is wringing his hands in grief. “Let us stop the -train and return and get him,” suggested Mrs. Kalkman. “I believe he has -been kidnaped,” said Brother Sloane, “or he would never have got left.” -“He’s all right; I found him,” shouted Brother Waddington, as he entered -the car, and there was great rejoicing when it was learned that instead -of being kidnaped and left behind, Brother Reagan was peacefully -sleeping in Brother Waddington’s berth in the drawing room in rear of -the train. - -F. B. DeGarmo, trainmaster of St. Louis, Iron Mountain - -[Illustration: AT EFFINGHAM, ILLINOIS.] - -[Illustration: LEAVING LONGVIEW JUNCTION, TEXAS.] - -and Southern Railroad, and his assistant, T. H. Gray, accompanied us -from St. Louis to Poplar Bluff, and Conductor P. Elkins, a member of -DeSoto Division No. 241, got on at DeSoto and went with us to Bismarck. -A large number of our party were gathered in the smoking car and we had -quite an entertainment. Brother Elkins sang a number of songs, and the -cook and waiters, one of them having a banjo, entertained us with songs -and music hard to beat, and most thoroughly enjoyed by all. Conductors -McDonald and Suter and Brother Haas sang excellent songs, and Wyman and -Shaw gave recitations. Our genial train conductor, Capt. W. Hall, -related some interesting stories of the days when this section of the -country was terrorized by the operations and exploits of the Jesse -James’ gang of train robbers. Captain Hall’s train was held up one night -by this daring band of thieves at Gad’s Hill, 120 miles south of St. -Louis. Hall was forced to surrender and remain quiet with the cold -muzzle of a revolver pressed against his temple. An attempt was made to -blow open the safe in the express car, but the robbers became frightened -at their own noise and fled without securing any booty. The evening has -been such a very enjoyable one that midnight approaches unawares; -finding it so late we turn in, having less difficulty in doing so than -we had last night. - - -MONDAY, MAY 10th. - -Got up this morning at 6.30 (5.30 Central) and found our train in charge -of Conductor H. C. Withrow and Engineer A. B. Archibald, with St. L. I. -M. & S. engine No. 375, fired by T. Grifin. Captain Withrow took charge -of the train at Poplar Bluff, with instructions to consume ten hours and -thirty-two minutes in the run to Texarkana, a distance of 325 miles. -Withrow has no brakeman, but is accompanied by a colored porter, J. J. -Norris, who performs the duties of a brakeman. We are now in Arkansas, -having crossed the State line last night at Moark, 185 miles south of -St. Louis. We arrive at Little Rock, Ark., 8.15 (7.15 Central) A. M., -and make a stop of ten minutes. We alight to look around and very much -admire the “375,” and are informed that it is one of the best engines on -the Iron Mountain Route and the first one built at the company’s new -shops at Baring Cross, Little Rock, Ark. Went to breakfast at 9.10 (8.10 -Central), hungry as a hyena. - -We cannot help but notice as we journey through Arkansas the advanced -condition of vegetation. Farmers in the East are only preparing their -ground for corn, and here it is up; potatoes are in blossom, and peas -are ready for use. Cotton is grown extensively here, and many acres are -seen with the plants just peeping through the ground. We are now nearing -the southern extremity of the State and approaching Texarkana, where we -arrive at 12.35 (11.35 A. M. Central) P. M., having passed through the -State of Arkansas 305 miles in a slightly southwesterly direction. - -A stop of twenty-five minutes is given us at Texarkana, which is on the -line between Arkansas and Texas, one-half of the station being in -Arkansas and the other half in Texas. Brother Wyman, who acts in the -double capacity of manager and clown, has a robe of crazy patchwork -design, a veritable coat of many colors, in which he has arrayed -himself, much to the amusement - -[Illustration: AT FORT WORTH, TEXAS.] - -of the crowd of natives who have assembled on our arrival. The antics of -Brother Wyman and a number of others who have taken possession of a -bronco and a team of donkeys occasion a great deal of merriment. As we -are about to leave, Mrs. Robert Foulon was presented with a large bunch -of beautiful magnolias by her friend, Mrs. Carmichael, of Texarkana. It -graced the sideboard of the dining car for many days and was much -admired. - -Left Texarkana 1.35 (12.35 Central) P. M. on the Texas and Pacific Road, -with T. & P. engine No. 126, Engineer William Gunn, Conductor Joseph -Scully, Brakeman J. C. Smith, who will run us to Longview Junction, 97 -miles. E. W. Campbell, trainmaster on the Eastern Division of the Texas -and Pacific, will go with us to Fort Worth, the terminus of his -division, 253 miles. Trainmaster Campbell is a member of Alamo Division -No. 59, of Texarkana. Brother Sloane went to a barber shop in Texarkana -and got left. Trainmaster Campbell left instructions for the conductor -of the following train to carry him to Longview Junction, where he will -overtake us. No “weeping and wailing and gnashing of teeth” in this -case, for we are assured of the safety of our brother. - -We arrived at Longview Junction on time, 5.22 (4.22 Central) P. M., and -five minutes later the following train, No. 55, arrived and with it came -Brother Sloane, who was given quite a reception, the ladies presenting -him with bouquets of natural grasses and flowers and the “boys” tying a -cord to him and leading him into the train. He has promised not to do it -again. - -Our train was attached to No. 55, which is called the “Cannon Ball” -Express, and at 5.35 (4.35 Central) P. M. we left Longview Junction with -a train of nine cars, drawn by T. & P. engine No. 229, in charge of -Engineer E. Smith, fired by S. Jones; Conductor E. R. Woodward, Porter -and Brakeman Bristoe Young, who ran us to Fort Worth, a distance of 156 -miles, where we arrive 11.20 (10.20 Central) P. M. Just before reaching -the city we cross the Trinity River. - -When we arrive at Fort Worth we learn that there is trouble ahead of us -somewhere, caused by high water, which has a discouraging effect. We -will lay over at this point to-night, with the expectation of learning -more in the morning. There is a heavy thunder storm and it is raining -hard as we turn in at 11.30 (10.30 Central) P. M. - - -TUESDAY, MAY 11th. - -Got up at 6.30 (5.30 Central), and found it raining hard. It cleared up -about eight o’clock and the party started out to see the town, it having -been announced that our train would leave at 12.15 (11.15 A M. Central) -P. M., nothing definite having been learned as to the trouble ahead. Our -party received the best of treatment from the good people of the town, -and many places of interest were visited. Officer H. C. Town, of the -city police, loaded sixteen of the party in a patrol wagon and drove -through the city to the City Hall, where they were kindly received and -shown over the building, from there to the water works, and through the -park to a point where a trolley line took them to the station. It was a -very enjoyable trip. Others of our party visited other places of -interest and had equally as good a time. A - -[Illustration: - -_Yours in P.F. - -O H Bacon - -T & P Ry_] - -number of souvenirs were procured, the most highly prized being the -Texan sunbonnets, which so fascinated the ladies of our party that they -purchased, it is said, all that were on sale in the city. They are very -unique in style and worn very extensively by the native women of this -locality. Brother Post purchased a Texan sombrero, and all agree that it -is very becoming; the ladies are wearing their sunbonnets; Wyman has his -circus gown and a Texan sunbonnet on; and a photographer is placing his -apparatus in position to take a snap at the train and party before we -leave. With the snap of the camera comes the shout of “all aboard,” and -as we scamper on, the train moves slowly off, and we leave Fort Worth -behind us, but carry away with us pleasant memories of the beauty of the -city and of the kindness and civility of its people. - -T. & P. engine No. 188, run by Engineer John Baker and fired by John -Price, draws our train from Fort Worth to Big Springs, a distance of 270 -miles. Conductor O. H. Bacon and Brakeman Charles Gunning go with us -from Fort Worth to El Paso, a distance of 616 miles. Division -Superintendent J. B. Paul accompanied us from Fort Worth to Weatherford, -31 miles. Shortly after leaving Weatherford we crossed the Brazos River -and obtained a fine view of the Brazos Mountains. As we passed Eastland, -105 miles west of Fort Worth, we noticed devastation and ruin, the -effect, we were told, of a recent cyclone. A few miles further we reach -Baird and stop ten minutes for orders and water. A little boy about -three years of age attracts the attention of some of our party, who -ascertain that his name is Reynaud Strobe; his mother and grandfather -live at the station; his father, who was an employe of the railroad, -was killed in an accident about a year ago, almost in sight of his home. -Master Reynaud is taken through the train and his little cap is filled -with cake and coin and his infant mind with wonderment and awe. He -cannot understand it, and his baby face expresses the puzzled condition -of his mind. Should he live it is hoped he will remember the -_Pennsylvania Railroad Conductors’ Excursion_. - -We have now entered the plains of Texas and at 6.20 (5.20 Central) P. M. -commence to pass through the prairie dog district. Brother Post is at -the throttle; he ran No. 188 for about 50 miles and claims to have -killed two jack rabbits and a prairie dog. Jack rabbits and prairie dogs -are very numerous through this section, and can be seen scampering in -all directions as the train thunders past. We are now nearing Big -Springs, where a stop will be made to change engines. It has become -dark, and we can no longer view the landscape, jack rabbits, and prairie -dogs. We arrive at Big Springs 10.15 (9.15 Central) P. M., and after a -delay of fifteen minutes leave with T. & P. engine No. 75, manned by -Engineer D. C. Everley and Fireman Lewis Lem, whose run extends to El -Paso, 347 miles. We have now entered the Great Staked Plains, and -regretting that the darkness prevents us from seeing this famous -country, we retire for the night at 12.20 (11.20 P. M. Central) A. M. - - -WEDNESDAY, MAY 12th. - -Turned out this morning about the usual time, and found the train -standing at San Martine Station, 174 miles east of El Paso. As we move -on our way again we find we are passing through a picturesque, but -barren - -[Illustration: A GROUP AT VAN HORN, TEXAS.] - -[Illustration: TOM McDONALD AND FRED BEACH.] - -country of plains and mountain ranges. A run of 50 miles from San -Martine brings us to Van Horn, where we make a halt of forty-five -minutes and are entertained by Mrs. M. R. Beach and her son Fred. Mrs. -Beach has charge of the station at Van Horn, which is also a supply -station for the railroad. Fred. is a young man about twenty-five years -old, and a veritable cowboy both in appearance and deportment. He -entertained and amused the party with an exhibition of bronco riding, -and to show his skill in the use of the lasso, chased Brother Wyman and -lassoed him with the bronco at a full run. Miss Myrtle Taylor, a young -lady who is visiting Mrs. Beach, also rode the bronco for the amusement -of the party, but it was noticed that the animal exhibited a far more -gentle spirit under the young lady’s management than it did when in -charge of Fred. A cyclone cellar in the back yard was an object of much -interest, and the interior was explored by several of the party. All the -dwellings, of which there are but few through this region, we are told, -have their cyclone pits. For many miles through this country there are -no habitations except along the line of the railroad, and the people are -all employes of the Texas and Pacific Railroad Company. - -Leaving Van Horn, we pass close to the Sierra Blanca Mountain range, and -in a short time stop at Sierra Blanca, where we lay over for half an -hour and devote the time to looking around. Sierra Blanca is 92 miles -southeast of El Paso and is the conjunction of the Texas and Pacific and -Southern Pacific Railroads, which use joint tracks from this point to El -Paso. A number of us visited the adobe residence of Jacob Hand, an aged -miner and prospector, who kindly allowed us to inspect his dwelling, -which is a very unique and novel affair, a part of which is used for a -school, and the old gentleman is the teacher. Mr. Hand generously gave -our party specimens of gold, silver, and copper ore, which are highly -prized as souvenirs. Brother Haas had considerable difficulty in getting -in range of the old gentleman with his kodak, but succeeded by strategy -in getting a “snap” before we left; also one of a group of the party -with the dwelling in the background. In the midst of the group is seen a -Mexican babe held in the arms of one of the ladies of the party, who is -closely watched by the mother of the infant, who fears her babe will be -appropriated for a souvenir. - -Leaving Sierra Blanca, we pass in sight and within about 20 miles of -Livermore’s Peak, 8200 feet high, said to be the highest point in Texas. -We have now entered a wild, barren, broken, uninhabited region, hemmed -in by dreary, ominous-looking mountain ranges. As the road traverses -this broken, desolate district, there are places where almost complete -circles are made in order to avoid ridges and ravines. Just after -passing Malone Station, 15 miles from Sierra Blanca, we encounter a -curve, and after following the circle for over a mile, find the tracks -are less than 200 yards apart. - -Mrs. Wyman, Mrs. Layfield, Mrs. Shaw, Brother Layfield, and myself rode -on the engine from Finlay to Ft. Hancock, which afforded us a fine view -of the rugged scenery through which we passed. We arrived at washout, 5 -miles east of El Paso, at 5.30 (4.30 Central) P. M., and find our train -can proceed no further until the track is repaired, four miles of it at -the present time being under water. - -[Illustration: MYRTLE TAYLOR ON A BRONCO.] - -[Illustration: RESIDENCE OF JACOB HAND, SIERRA BLANCA, TEXAS.] - -Wagons were in waiting to convey the party six miles across a desert -plateau to El Paso at one dollar per head; all but a few took advantage -of this method of reaching the city. The remembrance of this ride will -not fade from the memory in a hurry--six miles of knee-deep, red-hot -desert, dust and sand, through which the horses could scarcely drag -their loads. We have a good view of the flooded district and notice many -buildings surrounded with water, the occupants of which were forced to -flee to higher ground. All this water, we are told, is the result of -melting snows away up in the mountain districts, 75 or 80 miles away. -There is seldom any rain through this region, and the Rio Grande, one -half the year a shallow, insignificant stream, is to-day spread over -many miles of country, causing devastation, ruin, and suffering. - -Arriving in the city of El Paso, we are obliged to seek for -accommodations, which causes a separation of our party. The Firemen’s -State Convention is in progress here, and the town is full of visitors. -Ten of us found rooms at the “Grand Central,” some at “Vendome,” and a -number at the “Pierson.” The latter is the most popular place, and an -effort was made to get the entire party quartered there, but it could -not be done. After engaging rooms at the “Grand Central” we went across -the river, which is not overflowed at this point, into the old Mexican -town of Ciudad Juarez, the Paso del Norte of our childhood geographies. - -Under the escort of Conductors T. H. Purcell and Charles Allen, of the -Southern Pacific, we were shown much that was of interest. We were -introduced by Captain Purcell to Signor Miguel Ahuamada, the gentlemanly -Governor of the State of Chihuahua, who entertained us very nicely for -half an hour, giving us an international treat, which ceremony consists -of drinks of whatever each member of the party wishes, the guests -forming in a semicircle in front of the Governor, touching glasses with -him as they pass. Captain Purcell at the same time made a speech in the -Mexican language, with which he is thoroughly conversant, having at one -time filled the position of Government Interpreter at this point. Of -course none of us understood a thing that he said, but we felt sure it -was all right from the pleased expression on his Honor’s, face, who -replied in a pleasant manner in his native tongue. - -Purcell told us afterward that he had informed the Governor that we were -a party of Americans who had called to do him honor; that we drank to -his health and a long and happy life; that we had the highest regard for -Mexican institutions, believing them to be the best in the world; that -their men were the noblest and their women the most beautiful we had -ever met; that we wore upon our bosoms the colors of the Mexican flag, -which we considered, next to the Stars and Stripes, the most beautiful -banner in the world, and we hoped it would ever wave in triumph and in -peace over an empire that would continue to increase in prosperity and -wealth. No wonder the old man smiled; we would have smiled too had we -understood what was being said. The red, white and green of our tourist -badges had caught his eye and he was pleased. Captain Purcell’s speech -flatters him and he wants to do something to show his appreciation. - -Our visit does him great honor, and he desires to reciprocate; had he -time to arrange for a bull fight he could give us much amusement, but -his best bull was killed a short time ago and his matadors are out of -training; but he has a prisoner under the sentence of death, and if we -will return on the morrow he will execute him for our pleasure and -entertainment. Captain Purcell made us acquainted with this proposition, -which we declined with thanks. We had no desire to see the poor fellow -shot, which is their method of administering capital punishment. Bidding -his Honor adieu, we are next escorted through several of the principal -gambling resorts and are much interested in all we see. It is growing -late, and when we return to El Paso and reach our rooms it is midnight. - - -THURSDAY, MAY 13th. - -Arose about 6.30 and found the morning clear and warm. There are many -wonderful, strange, and unusual things in, around, and about El Paso, -but one of the most puzzling and perplexing things is its time. -Traveling westward you arrive on Central time and depart on Pacific, a -difference of two hours, while in the city they use local time, which is -a split between the two. Over the river in Juarez they use Mexican time. -Visited a barber shop for a shave, then a restaurant for breakfast and -got another shave; I was taxed one dollar and twenty cents for breakfast -for two. We didn’t return for dinner. - -Those of our party who did not visit Juarez last evening attended the -State Firemen’s ball and banquet under the escort of Colonel Whitmore, -Acting Mayor of El Paso, and Chief J. J. Connors, of the city fire -department, and they all speak in the highest terms of the royal -treatment they received and the grand time they had. The city of El Paso -contains about 12,000 inhabitants, but the population is almost double -that number this week, which gives the town a very lively appearance. We -learn that our train cannot be gotten over the washout to-day, and -arrangements are being made to remain in the city to-night. Engaged a -pleasant room for fifty cents per day at the “Wellington,” corner of -Staunton and Texas Streets, kept by Mrs. Whitmore; quite a number of our -party are stopping here. - -Brother Wyman hired a horse to-day and rode in the parade. It is very -hot in the sun. Went over in front of the Court House this afternoon to -see the firemen race. There was quite an exciting time. Brother Haas was -there with his kodak and had a narrow escape from being run over in -trying to get a “snap” at a team as the horses galloped past. Had a -pleasant chat in the evening with Mr. Pettus, an old resident of the -place, who has a furnishing store next to the “Wellington.” He is an -entertaining man and gave some interesting information relative to the -early history and habits of the country and people. I turned in about -eleven o’clock, but can’t speak for them all, for this is an interesting -city. - - -FRIDAY, MAY 14th. - -Turn out this morning about 7.30 and find the weather clear and warm. We -go to a nearby restaurant for breakfast; mutton chops are one of the -items on the bill of fare, and we are pleased, for we are partial to -chops--nice, juicy, tender mutton chops; but these chops do not quite -come up to our idea of what mutton chops should be--not so juicy nor so -tender as we would like; but being hungry we quietly and uncomplainingly -devour what is set before us. “Where do you people in El Paso get your -mutton?” I inquired of the waiter as we arose from the table (for I had -no recollection of seeing a sheep since we entered the State of Texas). -“_Goats_,” was the short but suggestive answer. A little private inquiry -elicited the information that it is a fact that the greater part of the -“mutton” consumed in El Paso is a product of the goatherd. The supply is -apparently inexhaustible, for thousands of those ruminating, odoriferous -quadrupeds can be seen roaming the adjacent plains and plateaus in great -herds, attended by boys and dogs. - -Accompanied Manager Wyman to Superintendent Martin’s office, where we -learn “that there is no prospect of getting our train across the washout -this week. The water has fallen but very little, and while we are -working day and night, endeavoring to close the break, our progress is -necessarily slow on account of the action of the high water, and the -work cannot be completed sufficiently to get our train across until the -water recedes. And no one knows,” continued Mr. Martin, “when this will -be, for the water is just as likely to rise as to fall. The weather has -been very hot these last few days and has melted the snow in the -mountains very rapidly, which has caused the high water here. When the -snow is gone the water will fall, so you see it depends upon the supply -of snow, of which we know nothing about. If you wish to continue on your -journey I will send you to Los Angeles by regular train, and when we -succeed in getting your train across will send it on after you.” - -Brother Wyman rather favors this proposition, as he desires to reach Los -Angeles before the Grand Division adjourns, but the majority of our -party will not agree to it, preferring to remain with the train and take -their chance with it; so the idea of going ahead by regular train is -abandoned. A party of us procured a four-horse team and went over to the -train to-day, some to remain and others to return. Would have remained -had Mrs. S. been along, for it is a dreadful hot trip of two and -one-half hours across that burning sand. - -We found our train sidetracked at Alfalfa, one mile east of the washout, -and had one mile to walk after leaving the wagon. Alfalfa is not a -place--it is only a name. There is a sidetrack here and a post with a -board on it, and on the board is painted in large black letters the word -ALFALFA. That is all. It is a flagstop for accommodation trains, but -there is no station, not even a shed, a platform, nor a plank. The -nearest civilized communities are El Paso, 7 miles away to the west, and -Fort Bliss, the same distance to the north. On the east end of the same -sidetrack where our train lies are a number of cabooses of the Texas and -Pacific construction train, occupied by Mexican families whose husbands -and fathers are working on the repairs at the washout. They are a -squalid, uninviting-looking set, but seem happy and contented with their -lot. - -Here and there in the edge of a sandbank can be seen a “dugout,” or, -sheltered in a mesquite thicket, a “shack” occupied by the same -nationality, who with their goats and burros are very pictures of meek -and lowly contentment. These are the surroundings in the midst of which -we are sidetracked. We find our people (those who are with the train) -with smiles upon their faces as they tell us they are “all right” and -are having a good and pleasant time. There must surely be an element or -ingredient in this desert air and atmosphere that breeds contentment and -repose. - -Several of the boys went over to the train and back on broncos to-day, -and experienced a hot but exhilarating ride. The party consisted of -Brothers Waddington, Taylor, Matthews, Moore, Mattson, Leary, and Elder, -who all claim that the ride, although a very hot one, was rare sport. -The novel experience of a ride of 14 miles on a fiery, wiry Texan horse -is a feature of their visit to El Paso that will not be forgotten. - -Brother Wyman remained at Alfalfa to watch the progress of repairs at -the washout, and I returned in the wagon to El Paso. Dining-car -Conductor McDonald accompanied us; he was looking for a wagon-load of -supplies for his car from El Paso that had not arrived. When about half -way across the plateau we met the team. Mr. McDonald interviewed the -driver to ascertain if his wagon was loaded with what had been ordered -and found everything satisfactory. - -As we leave behind us the hot, suffocating desert trail we pass close to -the base of Mt. Franklin, in the shadow of which El Paso lies, and -crossing the railroad tracks of the Fort Bliss Branch we feel a deep -sense of relief as we strike the hard, smooth street that leads us into -the city’s welcome shade and rest. - -Learning on our arrival back that the El Paso _Telegraph_, a morning -paper, contained an account of our trip and detention, we procured -several copies and sent them East to friends. - -The majority of our party went over to the train this afternoon; those -remaining in town witnessed this evening a grand pyrotechnical -exhibition under the auspices and management of the McGinty Club, a -powerful social and political organization of El Paso. After the parade, -during which there was a fine display of fireworks, the storming of Fort -McGinty took place, which was the leading feature of the occasion. The -fort, built of some light material, was erected on a neighboring hill, -Roman candles and sky rockets were used as weapons by both the storming -party and the defenders, which caused the mock battle to assume a very -realistic appearance. - -After the exhibition of fireworks a party of us visited the famous Astor -House, kept by Col. Si Ryan. Si is one of the noted characters of El -Paso. Years ago he was sheriff of three counties in Southern California, -Mono, Inyo, and San Bernardino, and in dealing with the outlaws and -renegades that infested the country at that time he achieved a -reputation for nerve and courage that has never been surpassed, and the -numerous scars upon his person, made by knife and bullet, bear silent -testimony that he never shirked his duty in the face of danger or turned -his back upon a foe. We find the colonel a prince of good fellows, and -after enjoying his company and partaking of his hospitality, we repaired -to the headquarters of the McGinty Club, and with a number of visiting -firemen were royally entertained. - -Brother McCarty was with us, and for some unexplained reason he -received special attention; but Charlie is a good fellow and deserves -it, and being a bachelor it is all right. Several of us withdrew from -the meeting before it adjourned, as it was drawing near midnight. We had -spent a long and busy day and were tired. Soon reached my room at “The -Wellington,” and retiring, endeavored to recall the various events of -the day, but rushing water, desert dust, galloping broncos, McGinties, -sky rockets, and smoke got mixed up in inextricable confusion as I lost -consciousness in sleep. - - -SATURDAY, MAY 15th. - -Turned out this morning about seven o’clock and found the weather clear, -with every indication pointing to another hot day. Not feeling very -well, I went out in search of “medicine”; met several of the boys out on -the same errand; our symptoms are similar, and we conclude that the -powder smoke inhaled during the McGinty demonstration is responsible for -our indisposition. - -A visit to Superintendent Martin’s office results in the information -that the washout situation remains unchanged. Mr. Martin can give us no -encouragement. Brother Layfield and myself called on Mr. Joseph Sweeney -during the morning and spent a pleasant hour with him. Learning that a -party was being made up to return to the train, Mrs. Wyman, Mrs. Shaw, -and myself join them. The Colonel and Mrs. Layfield desire to go, but -the wagon is already crowded. The sun is intensely hot, and at 9.30 A. -M. we leave El Paso for one more trip across that never-to-be-forgotten -scorching desert plateau. The party consists of nine, including the -driver, in a large transfer coach drawn by two horses. To relieve the -overburdened animals, the men walk part of the way and keep a sharp -lookout for rattlesnakes, for the driver had hinted that we might -encounter some, as they are known to be quite numerous in this locality. -Two large snakes of an unknown species were seen; one glided into a hole -in the side of the bank of a deep arroyo, and we did not go to look for -him; the other was discovered lying quietly behind a large sage bush by -one of the “boys,” who silently imparted the information to the rest. - -We gathered around, and looking where he pointed, saw a portion of his -snakeship’s form through a small opening in the bush. “Think it would be -safe to shoot at him?” whispered the discoverer of the snake, as he -clutched his ever-ready revolver in his grasp. “Yes; blaze away,” -answered a chorus of low voices. _Bang!_ went the pistol, and we saw the -snake slightly move, but it did not run away. “I hit him,” exclaimed our -brother with the pistol; and we all moved cautiously around the bush to -investigate. There he was, sure enough, a greenish-striped fellow about -six feet long, but he had no head, and from his appearance it had been -three or four days since he had lost it. Our marksman’s ball had struck -the ground just underneath the body and turned it partly over, which -movement had deceived us. I will say no _more_ about it lest you guess -who did the shooting; not that I think he would care, for mistakes are -being made every day by some of us that are worse than shooting dead -snakes. - -Arriving at our train about noon, after an absence - -[Illustration: FLOODED DISTRICT, ALFALFA, TEXAS.] - - -[Illustration: WRECKED BY TRAIN ROBBERS ON SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY.] - -of three days, brings with it a feeling of relief, similar to getting -home again. The majority of the party had preceded us, a number having -come over yesterday. All express themselves as being glad to get back to -the train, notwithstanding its uninviting surroundings and isolated -condition. What we all appreciate very much and what goes far toward -breaking the monotony of the situation is the fact that nearly all the -Texas and Pacific and Southern Pacific trains stop here, and are very -kind in furnishing us with water and ice when we need it. - -Yesterday afternoon a Southern Pacific train stopped here that had been -held up by train robbers a few miles east of Sierra Blanca. The safe in -the express car was blown open with dynamite and robbed of a large -amount of money. The train was held for one and a half hours while the -work was being done. The passengers on the train were not molested. Some -of our party entered the car and examined the wrecked safe, which was -blown almost into fragments. A portion of the car roof was torn off by -the force of the explosion and pieces of the safe were found in the -sides and ends of the car. A parrot and a rooster in the car lost nearly -all their feathers, but otherwise were apparently uninjured. Several of -our party obtained parrot and rooster feathers and pieces of the safe as -souvenirs. The Texan Rangers, we are told, are hot on the trail of the -outlaws. - -Manager Wyman has just returned from the washout and brings no -encouragement. “The break cannot be repaired until the water falls two -feet,” says Brother Wyman, “and it shows no disposition to fall.” “Give -me two hundred men and the material to bridge those arroyos and lay the -track and I will have a railroad from here into El Paso across that -desert plateau inside the time they have been waiting for this water to -fall,” exclaimed Brother Sloane, spiritedly. “They won’t leave you do -it, Charlie,” said Brother Terry, sympathetically. The arrival of six -more of our people from El Paso and the announcement of dinner at the -same time prevented further conversation in this direction. - -We were favored with a light shower in the afternoon, which evidently -stirred up the mosquitoes, for they are very numerous and aggressive -this evening. This is a beautiful night. It is the full of the moon, and -the clear, marvelous light it sheds is the most wonderful moonlight we -have ever seen; so clear, so bright, and yet so soft; no one can -describe it, for it is simply indescribable. Objects can be discerned at -a remarkable distance, and Mt. Franklin, six miles away, looms up to the -vision dark, grim, and majestic. - -As our party one by one retire to their berths there is not a mind among -them all but what is impressed with the beauty and grandeur of the -night, the silence and serenity of which is broken only by the -occasional barking of a watchful Mexican dog or the quarrelsome snarling -of thieving coyotes. - - -SUNDAY, MAY 16th. - -To-day is clear and warm, with a delightful breeze stirring. We avoid -the hot glare of the sun by remaining as much as possible on the shady -side of the train. There are remarkable conditions of climate here. In -the sun the heat is distressing, almost unbearable; in the shade it is -more than comfortable, almost luxurious, producing a feeling of -exuberant pleasure and vitality that is difficult to express or -understand. There was a light thunder shower during the night, which no -doubt had a tendency to further clarify and rarify this wonderful -atmosphere. We are making the best of the situation; have plenty to eat -and drink, but there is a scarcity of water for washing purposes, -although large irrigating ditches are close to hand, but the waters are -too muddy for use. - -About noon a Southern Pacific work train came along and supplied our -cars with water, which is hauled in large wooden tanks holding about -4000 gallons each. It is brought from Lasca, about 70 miles east of -Alfalfa. S. P. engine No. 904 is drawing the train which is supplying us -with water, Engineer John Condon, Conductor G. M. Seamonds, Brakemen J. -M. Bates and Charles McDonald, who are very kind and obliging, carefully -supplying each car with all the water needed. Manager Wyman has just -received a telegram from Superintendent Martin saying that the break -situation is not improving, and suggests that our committee make -arrangements to go some other way. - -Brakeman Charles Gunning, who has been with us since we left Ft. Worth, -made suggestions to our committee which were immediately taken up, viz., -that we return to Sierra Blanca and from there take the Southern Pacific -to Spofford Junction, thence over Eagle Pass and the Mexican -International to Torreon, then up over the Mexican Central to El Paso, -making a triangle trip of about 1450 miles. The committee immediately -set out to communicate with the railroad officials, and we are all -waiting anxiously to know the result of the conference. - -In the meantime work at the washout must have progressed with remarkable -rapidity, for some one just from there brings the highly encouraging -report that the break in the track is trestled over and the prospect of -getting us away soon is good. This report comes less than three hours -after Manager Wyman had received a message from Superintendent Martin -saying “he could give us no hope; that we had better go some other way.” -Is it any wonder that we are doubtful of the good news and regard it as -a fake? But it is true, nevertheless, for Brothers Wyman and Maxwell -have just returned and verify the report, adding “that if the water does -not rise again we will go out of here to-morrow.” - -Brothers Wyman, Maxwell, Sheppard, Gilliland, and myself walked down to -the washout this evening and came back in the caboose of the work train. -It is about three miles from where our train lies to the break in the -track that has caused so much labor and anxiety. The greater part of -this work is performed by Mexicans, and they have been working day and -night, much of the time up to the waist in water, in order to get the -break repaired. More of our party came over from El Paso this evening; -they are all over now but two or three. Brothers Haas and Smith and Mrs. -Smith went over to El Paso to-day to go by regular train to Los Angeles. - -When Brother John Reilly came over to the train he brought with him a -very much corroded revolver, presented as a souvenir to the Pennsylvania -Railroad conductors’ excursion party by Col. Si Ryan. The revolver -belonged to George Daley, mining engineer, of Lake - -[Illustration: WILLIAM J. MAXWELL, OF THE COMMITTEE.] - -Valley, New Mexico, who was killed by Indians September 9th, 1878. The -revolver was found on the alkali plains where Engineer Daley met his -death. The alkali had eaten off all the woodwork and corroded with rust -the iron. It is an interesting relic and highly valued as a souvenir. - -The “boys” have been patrolling the train at night since we have been -sidetracked here. I have volunteered to go on second watch to-night, and -turned in at eleven o’clock, expecting to be called at 2 A. M. for -patrol duty. - - -MONDAY, MAY 17th. - -Awakened at 2.30 this morning by Brother George Dale, and with Brother -Sam Horner go on duty to watch and to wait for morning to come. There is -nothing else for us to do; all is quiet outside and around the train as -we promenade back and forth on the alert for anything of a suspicious -nature. The morning is clear and bright and the air cool and refreshing. -Brother Kilgore, who sleeps near the roof in the car “Milton,” is doing -some vigorous snoring, and Brother Houston, in the rear of the “Orchis,” -is talking earnestly in his sleep. We catch an occasional glimpse of a -skulking dog or coyote seeking for food amongst the scraps thrown from -the train, but no marauder appears to molest us. A heavy 44-caliber -six-shooter, presented to the writer just before starting on the trip by -Lyttleton Johnson, Esq., of Chadd’s Ford, Pa., has been at the service -of our watchmen, and we feel that we are well armed. When not in -possession of the watchmen, Baggagemaster George Anderson sleeps with it -under his pillow. - -The coming of day and the stir of the occupants of the cars relieve us -from duty, and we strike out through the mesquite thicket to reconnoitre -and obtain a view of our surroundings. Less than 200 yards from the -train we come to a deep, wide, irrigating canal, through which the muddy -water is rushing in a torrent. We can go no further in this direction -and conclude to follow the stream in quest of a bridge. We go but a -short distance when the thicket becomes impenetrable, and we retreat, -and cutting a cane from the thicket as a memento of our little walk, we -return to the train, glad to find that breakfast is ready and to learn -that an effort will be made to get us over the break to-day. - -Brother Wyman has been closely watching the progress of the repairs, and -under the supervision of Master Mechanic H. Small, the work these last -two days has made very rapid advancement. The sun is scorching hot and -the forenoon is spent by the party sitting in groups in the shadow of -the train discussing the various features of the situation, and many are -the surmises as to what will be the result of an attempt to cross that -sea of water over the repaired and trestled tracks with a train of cars -of such weight as ours. We feel that the risk is great, but realize the -effort to get us over is to be made, when about 1 P. M. S. P. engine No. -719, in charge of Engineer M. Love, is run in against our train and we -are pushed, with six construction cars ahead of us, out on the main -track and up toward the flooded district. Conductor J. H. Ludwig has -charge of the train, and in him Mrs. Ed. Foster recognizes a cousin whom -she had not seen for many years. The recognition is mutual and the -meeting a happy one. The knowledge that the conductor is related to and -personally known by a member of our party creates a feeling of -confidence that almost assures our safe deliverance. - -We have now reached high water and our train is being slowly pushed -farther and farther into a gurgling, surging, muddy flood until the -dreaded break is reached, with miles of water all around us. The -repaired track, propped and trestled, settles and sinks out of sight -when it receives the weight of the cars, that toss and roll and creak in -a manner which, if it does not frighten us, fills us with much concern, -for we are afraid we will lose our train in the flood. A sudden stop, -caused by the bursting of an air-brake hose on the engine, fills us with -alarm. “We are lost,” murmured Mrs. Maxwell, and her face wore a -frightened look. “Not yet,” replied Brother Schuler, and his assurance -gave us comfort; but the few minutes delay caused by the accident was -almost fatal, for our heavy dining car had settled until its wheels were -covered with water and the repairsmen thought a rail had broken beneath -its weight. In water almost up to their necks the men made an -examination of the track under the car and found it intact. - -The signal was given to move ahead, and as slowly the sunken car comes -into position, hearts become lighter and faces grow brighter; the -dreadful suspense is over, and we give more attention to our -surroundings. We see many fine residences surrounded by water, and large -fields of grain inundated and ruined. We are two hours coming through -the four miles of high water. Slowly and carefully we are safely brought -through, and all concerned are entitled to the highest praise for the -able and judicious manner in which the train was handled. - -Arriving at the Southern Pacific station in El Paso about three o’clock, -and finding we have an hour before leaving, many avail themselves of the -opportunity of taking a parting look at this interesting city and -bidding adieu to the many kind friends who have done so much toward -making our forced stay a pleasant and happy one. Four of our party, -under the escort of Brother Sloane, have taken a trip over to Juarez, -and much uneasiness and concern is felt for them, as the time is up for -our train to go and they have not returned. The engine whistle is -sounded long and loud to call them in, but they do not come. “They have -gone over there to make some purchases,” asserts Brother Sheppard, “and -I fear have been arrested for trying to evade the customs laws.” “No -fear of that,” replies Captain Purcell, who has charge of our train, -“you may rest assured that no member of your party will be molested by -the customs officers. The courtesy and freedom of the cities of El Paso -and Juarez have been extended to you, and the badge you wear is a -guarantee of your safety.” “Yes,” adds Col. Si Ryan, who is on hand to -see us off, “Diaz wouldn’t allow any of you Pennsylvanians pinched if -you should carry off the whole State of Chihuahua, for his Honor thinks -Pennsylvania the greatest and best State of the Union, with the -exception, of course, of Texas,” and there is a proud, faraway look in -the Colonel’s eye as he contemplates the enormous area and the -illimitable possibilities of the great Lone Star State. Notwithstanding -the assurance of Captain Purcell and Colonel Ryan, Brother Post is very -much concerned, for Miss Ella is with the absent party, and he has gone -to look for them. Brothers Moore and Dougherty have - -[Illustration: COL. SI RYAN.] - -taken advantage of the delay and are off looking for souvenirs. Those -who are waiting for the return of the absent ones are growing very -impatient, and when at last they are seen coming, impatience and -uneasiness give way to feelings of relief and gladness, and Brother -Sloane is forgiven once more on the plea “that it was a misunderstanding -of the time that caused the trouble,” and gave it as his opinion that -“El Paso time is one of the most confusing problems that ever worried a -tourist.” - -The deep-toned engine bell peals out the warning that the train is about -to start; “All aboard” is shouted, the last hand shake is given, and at -5.45 (2.45 Pacific) P. M., just five days, six hours, and forty-five -minutes late, our train rolled out of the Southern Pacific Station and -across the Rio Grande, leaving behind the pretty and interesting city of -El Paso and our many new-found friends, whose liberality and kindness -will ever remain a pleasant and happy memory with us. Our train is drawn -by S. P. engine No. 1395, in charge of Engineer Joseph Bird and fired by -J. V. Paul, who accompany us to Tucson, 312 miles. Conductor T. H. -Purcell and Brakeman E. G. Shaub go with us to Yuma, 563 miles. - -We are in New Mexico, having entered it when we crossed the Rio Grande -River. The country is wild and barren and the railroad very crooked. -Engineer Bird, in his eagerness to make up the lost time, is running at -a speed which Manager Wyman thinks is not consistent with safety. The -cars rock and roll in an alarming manner, and several dishes have been -broken in the dining car, which calls forth a protest from our friend -McDonald of that most cherished department. Brother Wyman immediately -requests Conductor Purcell to instruct the engineer to reduce speed, -which is done, much to the relief and comfort of all on board. Brother -Joseph Flory, of St. Louis Division No. 3, State Railroad and Warehouse -Commissioner, of Jefferson City, Mo., and Harry Steere, Esq., traveling -passenger agent of the Southern Pacific Railroad, are our guests from El -Paso to Los Angeles, and a much appreciated acquisition to our party. - -They have a fund of useful and interesting information on hand -pertaining to the country through which we are passing, which they -impart to us in a pleasant and entertaining manner. “What place is this, -Mr. Steere?” we inquire as a pretty little town bursts upon our vision. -“This is Deeming,” replies Mr. Steere, “and it is quite an important -place. We are now 88 miles from El Paso, and this is the first town we -have seen. A few years ago it was as barren and uninhabitable here as -any of the desolate country through which we have passed, but good water -was discovered a few feet below the surface of the ground, and now the -place is noted for its many wells of fine water, which is shipped for -hundreds of miles and is also used for irrigating purposes, for nothing -will grow throughout this region unless it is artificially watered. The -thrifty young shade trees, the shrubbery and patches of verdant -vegetation you noticed as we passed through Deeming is convincing -evidence that all this region needs, to make it one of the most fertile -and productive countries in the world, is plenty of water.” - -For 60 miles further we pass through this region of desert plateaus -known as the plains of Deeming. The dust is almost suffocating and -sifts through every crack and crevice, the double, almost air-tight, -windows of the Pullmans being insufficiently close to keep it out. At -the little station of Lordsburg, 60 miles from Deeming, Engineer Bird -stops to water his iron horse. “This supply of water,” remarked Mr. -Steere, “is brought here in pipes from a large spring or lake in yonder -mountain, five miles away.” - -Looking in the direction indicated, we can see through the gathering -dusk of evening the dark outlines of a mountain in the distance. “’Tis a -pity,” continued Mr. Steere, “that you were not enabled to pass through -this section during daylight, for there are some things I should like -you to see. We are drawing near the Arizona line, and the scenery is -becoming more broken and varied. Those mountains which you can dimly -discern on your right are composed of cliffs and crags of reddish rock -of a peculiar and interesting formation. On the left the great San Simon -Valley stretches away to the south for a distance of 75 or 80 miles, and -is the grazing ground for many thousands of cattle. One company alone, -the San Simon Cattle Company, it is said, has a herd of nearly 100,000 -head.” “What do they feed on, Mr. Steere?” I asked, for visions of the -dust-environed plains of Deeming were still floating in my mind. “This -great valley,” answered Mr. Steere, “through the northern boundary of -which we are now passing, is not nearly so dry as the more elevated -country through which we have passed. There are occasionally short -periods of wet weather which produces pasture very rapidly, the pasture -consisting chiefly of what is known through here as gama grass, which -grows very fast and luxuriant and possesses great feeding qualities. -The strangest but most valuable feature of this peculiar vegetation is -that it retains all its sweetness and nutrition after it is dead and -brown, and stock feed upon it with as much avidity in a dry and sapless -condition as they do when they find it in the green and juicy stage of -life and growth. - -“Away to the south, bounding this immense valley, is a wild and rocky -range of the Chiricahua Mountains, said to be from time immemorial the -rendezvous of renegades and desperadoes, one of the most noted being an -outlaw Apache Indian called the ‘Arizona Kid,’ whose depredations and -crimes were a terror to all the surrounding country. And were it only -light,” continued Mr. Steere, “I would show you one of the most notable -landmarks on the Southern Pacific Road. Away over to the south there, -clearly outlined against the sky, is a mountain formation that plainly -resembles the up-turned profile of a human face. It is called ‘Cochise’s -Head,’ bearing a strong likeness, it is said, to Cochise, the most noted -chieftain of the Apache tribe.” - -We have now reached what is known as “Territorial Line,” about midway -between the little stations of Stein’s Pass and San Simon. Conductor -Purcell kindly stops the train at this point, giving those who wish the -opportunity and privilege of gathering some mementoes of the occasion -and locality. I look at my watch; it is 11.20 P. M. “Philadelphia” time, -8.20 P. M. “Territorial Line” time; it is pretty dark for the business -on hand, but the post that marks the dividing line is easily found, and -in a very short time is so badly cut and splintered by the relic hunters -that it looks as though it had been struck by lightning. Several -standing astride the designated and imaginary dividing line picked -pebbles from New Mexico and Arizona at the same time. In five minutes we -are on our way again, and in a short time thereafter the snores of the -tourists heard above the rumble of the train proclaim that “the weary -are at rest.” - - -TUESDAY, MAY 18th. - -Got up this morning about the usual time and found that we had passed -Tucson in the early part of the morning and had changed engines at that -point. We have now S. P. engine No. 9030, Engineer J. W. Bunce and -Fireman J. Weir, who run us to Yuma, a distance of 251 miles. It cannot -always be day, nor we cannot always be awake, so when night comes and we -sleep we miss much that is novel and interesting. “You have missed much -since entering Arizona that is well worth seeing,” I hear Mr. Steere -remark to several of the party with whom he is conversing as I enter the -smoker. “During the night we have passed through the most wonderful -cactus country in the world, many of the plants rising to the height of -thirty and forty feet; but you will see similar plants should you pass -through the Antelope Valley, Cal., in daytime after leaving Los Angeles. -You also missed seeing the town of Benson, which is one of the important -places on this line, where we connect with the New Mexico and Arizona -and the Arizona and Southwestern Railroads; and it is really too bad -that you did not get at least a passing look at Tucson, for there is -only one Tucson in the world. It is one of the oldest and queerest -places in the United States, and a place with a history. The population -is estimated to be about 8000, and nearly all of the residences are of -adobe construction. Claims are made that it was first settled by the -Spanish in 1560.” A call to breakfast interrupted Mr. Steere’s -interesting talk as we all make a break for the dining car. - -All the morning we have been descending the Gila River Valley, and the -picturesque, complex scenery of mountain, plain, and valley has been -much enjoyed by all. As we approach Yuma, situated on the Colorado -River, in the extreme southwestern corner of Arizona, we can scarcely -realize that in the 251 miles we have come since leaving Tucson we have -dropped from an altitude of 2390 feet to that of 140 feet, the elevation -of Yuma, but such is the case, according to the figures given on the -time table of the Southern Pacific Railroad which I hold in my hand, and -which Captain Purcell and Mr. Steere both declare is correct beyond a -shadow of doubt, adding “that the Southern Pacific Railroad Company was -never known to publish a falsehood or make a mistake.” - -We arrive at Yuma 12.30 P. M. Eastern (9.30 A. M. Pacific), and make a -stop of fifteen minutes. The station is a low-built, commodious -building, surrounded on three sides by extensive grounds in which -flowers are blooming in profusion. A number of bouquets were gathered by -the ladies. Several native Indians are about the station having for sale -trinkets and toys of their own manufacture. It is a strange and novel -sight to behold these old remnants of an almost extinct race and tribe -dressed in the scant and grotesque garb of their nativity, with their -faces and the exposed - -[Illustration: ARIZONA LANDSCAPE.] - -[Illustration: “YUMA BILL,” INDIAN CHIEF AT YUMA, OVER 100 YEARS OLD.] - -parts of their limbs and bodies painted and tattooed with bright and -varied colors, increasing tenfold their natural ugliness, which showing -to its best advantage, unassisted by art, is far above par. Yuma Bill, -the biggest, oldest, and ugliest of the lot, seems to claim the most -attention, and as I see him coming down the station platform and -entering the waiting-room door, bareheaded and barefooted, with a -bright-striped blanket about him, I think of Mark Twain’s story of his -visit to the camp of Sitting Bull. “The old chief saw me coming,” says -Mark, “and he came to meet me. I had pictured him in my mind as an old -warrior covered with glory; I found him clothed with the nobility of his -race, assisted by an old horse blanket, one corner of which hid his -approach and the other corner covered his retreat.” Similar characters -are Yuma Bill and his pals, and if ever “Mark” encounters them he will -be strongly reminded of his notable interview with the famous Sitting -Bull. - -We all buy trinkets of Bill, for we never expect to see him again and we -don’t want to forget him. We are told that he is a good old Indian, but -was not always so. Years ago, when there were battles to be won, Bill -made a record as a fighter. He will fight no more; there are only a few -of him left; and Uncle Sam has given him and his comrades a refuge in a -little reservation across the river where they hope to live and die in -quietness and peace. - -A short distance back of the station can be seen the territorial prison -or penitentiary, on a bluff overlooking the Colorado River. We thought -it was a fort until told that it was a prison. Our train is about to -start, and we find a large car or tank of water attached on the front -end next the engine and a freight caboose on the rear. We find that a -freight crew has charge of us, that the tank of water will be needed to -supply the engine, as there is a run of 120 miles through a country -devoid of water, and that the crew will need the caboose when they leave -us, for they expect to take back from Indio a train of freight. We have -S. P. engine No. 1609, with Engineer W. Hayes at the throttle, fired by -George McIntyre, Conductor H. J. Williams, Brakemen H. J. Schulte and R. -M. Armour. As our train moves slowly off across the bridge that spans -the Colorado we take a last look at Yuma and its picturesque -surroundings, and in two minutes we are in California and crossing the -Colorado Desert. - -We are disappointed. We thought California a land of beauty, fertility, -and flowers--a desert waste is all we see, bald mountains and barren -plains on every side. Our course is upward for about 25 miles, until an -elevation of 400 feet is reached, and then we begin to descend, and when -we pass the little station of Flowing Well, 60 miles west of Yuma, we -are only five feet above the level of the sea. Ten miles farther we stop -at Volcano Springs and are 225 feet below the sea level. After leaving -Flowing Well our attention was called by Mr. Steere to what was -apparently a large lake of clear, sparkling water ahead, and to the left -of our train, about half a mile away. We were running toward it but got -no closer to it. It remained there, the same distance from us, a bright, -sparkling, rippling body of water; not one on the train but what would -have said, “It is water.” Mr. Steere says, “No; it is not water; - -[Illustration: THE CALIFORNIA POPPY.] - -it is a delusion, a mirage caused by the glare of the sun on the shining -salt crust of this alkali desert. There is not much doubt,” continued -Mr. Steere, “but what ages upon ages ago all this immense basin was the -bottom of a great sea. You can see upon the sides of these barren bluffs -and upon those walls of rock the mark of the water line that for -thousands of years perhaps have withstood the ravages and test of time. -This little station is called Volcano Springs because of the number of -springs in this locality that are apparently of volcanic origin. They -are not in operation at the present time, but certain seasons of the -year they are very active and spout up mud and water to a height of from -10 to 25 feet.” - -A thermometer hanging in the doorway of the station, in the shade, -registers 101 degrees, and it is not unusual, we are told, for it to -reach 125. It is actually too hot in the sun to stand still; it almost -takes one’s breath away. We feel relieved when our train starts and we -are in motion once more. We create a breeze, a sea breeze, as it were, -wafted to us o’er the mummified saliniferous remains of an ancient sea -3000 years a corpse. But the “mirage” still is there, a wonderful -delusion, a monstrous deception, a gigantic “Will o’ the wisp,” whose -alluring promises have led hundreds of men and animals a fruitless chase -that ended in horrid death. - -Sixty-five miles ahead of us we can plainly see San Jacinto Mountain, -towering 11,500 feet in the air, with its summit covered with ice and -snow that glistens in the noonday sun. Twenty-four miles from Volcano -Springs we pass Salton, noted for its great salt industry. This is the -lowest point on the line of the Southern Pacific Railroad, being 263 -feet below sea level. About three miles to the left of the railroad we -see the great white salt marsh or lake, containing such a vast deposit -of this useful substance that the supply is thought to be inexhaustible. -Steam plows are used for gathering the salt, and the works erected here -have a capacity of nearly 1000 tons per day. - -Twenty-five miles from Salton we reach Indio, where a short stop is made -to change engines. Indio is a veritable oasis in the desert. After miles -and miles of desert dust and glaring sand, it is very refreshing to see -again trees and grass and flowers. We are still 20 feet below the level -of the sea, but good water has been found here, and plenty of it applied -to the soil has worked wonders. Whatever is planted grows with rapidity -and in profusion, and with an abundance of water Indio can look forward -to fast increasing beauty and prosperity. It has been discovered that -the climate here is very beneficial to consumptives, and Indio has -already become noted as a resort for those afflicted with pulmonary -trouble, and it is claimed some very remarkable cures have been -effected. - -We leave Indio at 4.15 P. M. Eastern (1.15 P. M. Pacific), with S. P. -engine No. 1397. Engineer Ward Heins, Fireman J. A. Shanehan; Conductor -Williams and his brakemen will continue on to Los Angeles with us, 130 -miles further. - -Soon after leaving Indio we ascend a grade of 120 feet to the mile and -pass along the base of San Jacinto Mountain, with its summit frowning -down upon us from a height of 11,500 feet. The snow can now be plainly -seen upon its highest peaks, and rivulets and cataracts can be seen in -places dashing and leaping down its seamed and rugged sides. - -At Rimlon we get Engineer Eli Steavens and Fireman M. Anderson with -engine No. 1963 to assist us up a steep grade to Beaumont, a distance of -35 miles. - -At Palm Springs a short stop was made to take aboard some guests who -came to meet us from Los Angeles. They were Mr. G. L. Mead, Mr. H. -Kearney, and Mr. J. E. White. Mr. Mead is a merchant of Los Angeles who -heard of our coming and came to meet us to bid us welcome to the -“Paradise of America,” and to emphasize his expressions of good -feelings, presented the tourists with a case of very fine California -wine. Mr. Mead could have done nothing more in accord with the feelings -of the party. No wine ever tasted better, no wine ever did more good; it -is a medicine our systems crave after 150 miles of the scorching, -glaring, waterless Colorado Desert; a right thing in the right place; it -is appreciated far more than Mr. Mead will ever know. Mr. Kearney is a -promoter of stage lines and is about to establish a route between Palm -Springs and Virginia Dale, a distance of 71 miles. He is an interesting -gentleman to converse with, being perfectly familiar with all the -surrounding country. Mr. White is a transfer agent doing business in Los -Angeles, and is on hand to render aid to any of the party who may need -his services. - -We arrive at Beaumont and have reached the summit of the grade. In the -50 miles we have come since leaving Indio, we have made an ascent of -5280 feet. Our helper engine No. 1397 has left us; and we commence our -descent of the western slope of the San Bernardino Range. Mr. J. -Jacobs, a civil engineer in the employ of the Southern Pacific Railroad -Company, was invited to get aboard at Beaumont and accompany us to Los -Angeles. We find him a very agreeable guest, giving us a great deal of -entertaining information. - -We have passed from desert wastes into a rich agricultural district; -farmers are engaged in harvesting hundreds of acres of barley, which in -this region is cut while in a green state and cured for hay. We pass -many large fruit orchards of different varieties, while away in the -distance on every hand the mountains rear their snow-clad peaks to the -clouds. It is a grand and wonderful transformation from the scenes -through which we have lately passed, and needs to be seen to be -appreciated. - -“This section of country through which we are now passing,” observed Mr. -Jacobs, “is the famous Redlands district, a country that has shown far -greater development and been subject to more rapid improvements in the -same number of years than any other known section of its size in the -world. Ten years ago it was almost barren, and known only as a vast -sheep range; to-day, owing to a thorough system of irrigation, there are -nearly 30,000 acres of reclaimed land that bloom and blossom and bear -fruit with all the fertility, the beauty, and abundance of a tropical -garden.” - -We have now entered the orange district, and large groves are seen on -every hand, golden with the luscious fruit. At Pomona a halt of -sufficient length is made to allow several baskets of oranges to be put -on the train, which are distributed amongst the party and found to be -delicious and refreshing. We are unable to ascertain who are the -thoughtful donors, but all the - -[Illustration: A CLUSTER OF NAVEL ORANGES, CALIFORNIA.] - -same they have the most sincere thanks of the entire party for their -kindness and generosity. - -For 25 miles we pass through a fairyland of blooming loveliness, and at -8.45 P. M. Eastern (5.45 Pacific) our train rolls into the station in -Los Angeles, five days, five hours, and forty-five minutes late. On an -adjacent track a train is loading, and we learn it is the New York -Central excursion about ready to start for home. We exchange greetings -and cards with many of them before their train pulls out, bound for its -journey through the heat and dust of desert and plain, for they return -by the route we came, and we know what is in store for them. - -We begin to realize what we have missed by thus coming in at the -eleventh hour. We find we were saved from a watery grave in the raging -Rio Grande only to discover that we are here just in time to be too late -to participate in the “good times” all the other visitors have had. The -twenty-sixth session of the Grand Division of the “Order of Railway -Conductors” that we had expected to attend is about ready to adjourn; -the pleasure trips planned for the entertainment of members of the order -to all the surrounding points of interest have been taken, and we -weren’t “in it.” ’Tis rather a discouraging outlook, but with the true -Yankee spirit of self-reliance we quickly determine to make the best of -it, trusting our future to luck and Providence. - -Brothers Houston, Haefner, and myself start for Music Hall, No. 234 -South Spring Street, where the Convention is in session, and arrive five -minutes before its adjournment. We hear Brother Grand Chief Conductor E. -E. Clark make his closing speech. As the members of the Convention -commence to pour out of the hall into the street the greater part of our -folks arrive on the scene, and for more than an hour an impromptu -meeting is held on the sidewalk and on the street in front of the -building, where old friends are greeted and new friends are made; -everybody wants to exchange cards with everybody else; all are -good-natured, good-humored, and happy, and “perpetual friendship” seems -to be the ruling spirit of the hour. The crowd gradually disperses and -becomes scattered over the city, members of our party mingling with the -rest, seeing the sights and looking for souvenirs. - -Brother Ristein received a telegram that had been lying in the Los -Angeles office four days awaiting his arrival, telling him of the -serious illness of one of his children far away in his Delmar home, and -he is at the office now, anxiously awaiting a reply to a message of -inquiry sent as to the present condition of the child. Brother Ristein -fears the worst, and we all share his anxiety. Promptly the answer -flashes back, “The child is better and thought to be out of danger.” The -words make light a heavy heart, and we are all glad for Brother -Ristein’s sake. - -Our train occupies a track in the Arcade Station train shed for our -convenience, and by ten o’clock there are very few but what have turned -in. A few of the “boys” are still out, of course, but it is a hopeless -task to try and “keep tab” on them. We cannot do it. These nocturnal -outings of theirs will have to be noted down as “unwritten history.” How -much of it there will be we cannot tell. There has been considerable -already, of which we might mention one night at Fort - -[Illustration: WINTER IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA.] - -Worth, testing the efficacy of police protection while attempting to -follow a “blind trail”; four or five nights in El Paso chasing the -fleeting phantom of merry luck to the musical whirl of the wheel of -fortune. They are all right, these “boys” of ours, and they know a good -thing when they see it. - - -WEDNESDAY, MAY 19th. - -We are all up bright and early this morning, and after breakfast parties -are formed to take in the sights. A number of us have decided to take a -tally-ho ride, and Brother Wyman has gone to procure the outfit. In a -short time he returns with the information that “the wagon will soon be -here.” It is not long until a fine roomy coach, drawn by six white -horses, reins up in front of the group, and we clamber in. There is just -room enough. We count the party and find there are fourteen, including -the driver. The team is from the Panorama Stables and driven by “Mac,” -the veteran stager and coachman, who knows every crook and turn in all -the highways and byways and drives and trails throughout Southern -California. “Mac” is a character; we try to draw him out, but he won’t -talk about himself, won’t even tell you his name, only that it is “Mac.” -He will tell you about everything else, and he is thoroughly posted. He -takes us through the principal streets of this most wonderful city, -rightly named “The town of the Queen of Angels.” - -Los Angeles lies amongst the foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountains, -with an average elevation of 300 feet above sea level, only 15 miles -from the coast, with an active, bustling business population of about -75,000 inhabitants. The beauty and magnificence of this tropical -profusion through which we are passing is something we have heard of, -but never saw before, and we find we are helpless when we attempt to -describe it. In fancy and in dreams we have pictured “The Land of -Sunshine and Flowers,” but now, brought face to face with this marvelous -reality, the beautiful pictures of dreams and fancy pale into crudeness -and insignificance. Through avenues shaded on either side by rows of -palms, eucalyptus, and pepper trees, past rose-embowered cottages and -lawns filled with tropical plants, surrounded by hedges of roses and -calla lilies, we continue on our way out through the suburbs into the -rural districts, through the avenues of vast orange groves, the trees -loaded with luscious golden fruit, through beautiful Pasadena, and on -until “Mac” draws up at the famous ostrich farm, where we alight and go -in to look around. - -We spend about half an hour looking at the birds and two and a half -dollars in the purchase of feathers. Loading up, we start on our way -again, bound for “Lucky Baldwin’s” ranch, “the largest individual tract -of land,” says “Mac,” “in Southern California. It comprises 50,000 -acres, nearly all under a condition of cultivation and improvement.” -Here it is our pleasure to behold the largest and most wonderful orange -grove in the world. For miles we see nothing but orange trees and -oranges; the trees are loaded and the ground is covered with the yellow -fruit. We feast upon the beauty and grandeur of this unusual sight, with -lots of oranges thrown in. It is needless to state that we ate all we -could and loaded up the hack. - -[Illustration: BROOKSIDE AVENUE, REDLANDS, CALIFORNIA.] - -A few miles further on we arrive at the Bonita Hotel, belonging to the -ranch kept by Mrs. Warner, where the horses are taken from the coach and -fed and the party takes lunch. Large lawns surround the buildings filled -with many varieties of flowers, and we are given the privilege of -plucking all we want, and when we leave each lady carries a large -bouquet in her hand and each gentleman a smaller one in his buttonhole. - -Starting on our way again, the horses refreshed with rest and food, we -speed along lengthy drives and avenues, shaded by large Lombardy poplar -and eucalyptus trees, for about two miles, when we pass through a large -gateway over which is an arch in the form of an immense horse shoe, and -enter the stable grounds where Baldwin’s famous blooded horses are kept. -We are kindly received by the stableman, shown through the stalls, where -a number of the celebrated equines are seen. Brother Layfield evinces -such a surprising knowledge of horseflesh and shows so much interest in -the history of the different animals as related by the stableman that he -is presented by that courteous gentleman with a mule’s shoe as a -souvenir of the visit. Brother Kilgore is also interested in the horses -and would like to have a shoe; a search for one is unsuccessful, and so -long did Brother Kilgore remain in the stable looking for the -much-desired relic that he came near being left. - -Leaving the stable grounds, we drive a mile further to the palatial -residence and magnificent grounds of the renowned ruler of these -domains. Mr. Baldwin is not at home at the present time, but the place -is in charge of trusted employes. Leaving the coach, we walk through the -spacious grounds surrounding the princely mansion. Paradise can hardly -be more beautiful and grand--the largest, the sweetest, the reddest -roses that ever delighted the sense of sight or smell, the grandest -trees, the most beautiful shrubbery bearing flowers of every kind and -color. Bordered with blooming lilies are lakes of water, clear as -crystal, on the surface of which graceful swans are swimming and in -whose depth gold and silver fish dart and dive. Fine fountains and -statuary intersperse the lawn, adding to its richness and beauty. -Mounted above a pedestal in a conspicuous spot we notice an old bell. It -is possessed of no beauty, and we wonder what it is for. We inquire of -an old man working near by, “Uncle, what is the old rusty bell for?” -“That old bell,” answered the old gentleman, removing his hat with a low -bow as he turns toward the object in question, “is the most valued thing -you see. It is a relic that money cannot buy. Mr. Baldwin prizes it very -highly, and we people all adore it.” As the old servant utters the last -words he makes another low courtesy. We begin to think he is a little -daft and are about to move on, when, straightening up and with -outstretched arm he points toward the old bell a bony, trembling finger, -and continues slowly and with emphasis, “That old bell came from the -chimes tower of the San Gabriel Mission. That is why we prize it; that -is why we love it.” We thought at first the old fellow bowed to us; we -know now that he bowed to the old bell out of respect and reverence, for -whatever is connected or associated with those old missions is looked -upon as something almost sacred by many of the people here, especially -those of the Roman faith. - -A whistle from “Mac” informs us we must be going, - -[Illustration: SAN GABRIEL MISSION, CALIFORNIA.] - -[Illustration: GIANT PALMS ON THE ROAD TO SAN GABRIEL.] - -and climbing into the ’bus the horses start off on a brisk trot and we -soon leave “Lucky Baldwin’s” ranch behind and enter “Sunny Slope” -vineyard, owned by L. J. Rose. This immense vineyard contains 1500 acres -and is traversed by beautiful avenues which divide this vast acreage of -grapevines into great squares. - -We are soon across this interesting tract and enter the grounds of the -vintage plant of the San Gabriel Wine Company. We were very courteously -treated and shown through the large establishment, the capacity of which -is 1,500,000 gallons of wine per year. Upon leaving we pass through -their vineyard, containing 1000 acres, which is near the vintage plant. - -As we approach the old San Gabriel Mission and “Mac” reins up his steeds -in front of the low, quaint building, I instinctively glance up at the -ancient belfry and find that two of the niches or arches where bells -once had swung are vacant. “Lucky Baldwin” has one of the bells; I -wonder who has the other. At this moment another tally-ho drives up and -stops, and we find it is a coaching party of our own people. We all -alight and enter the historic and sacred edifice. Those who are of the -faith render their acknowledgment with quiet, humble reverence; we who -are not stand silently by in an attitude of mute veneration. San Gabriel -stands fourth in the line of the twenty-one missions established in -California from July 16th, 1769, to April 25th, 1820, the date of its -establishment being September 8th, 1771. - -The party we encountered consists of Mr. and Mrs. Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs. -Maxwell, Mr. and Mrs. Reilly, Mr. and Mrs. Matthews, Mr. Reagan, Mr. -McCarty, Mr. Waddington, Mr. Taylor, Mr. Williams, and Mr. Suter. They -occupy one of Hoag’s White Livery tally-ho coaches, followed by Mr. and -Mrs. Horner in a buggy. Our party consists of Mr. and Mrs. Wyman, Mr. -and Mrs. Kilgore, Mr. and Mrs. Layfield, Mr. and Mrs. McKernan, Mr. and -Miss Barrett, Mr. Crispen, Mrs. Shaw and myself. - -As we bowl along the level drive toward the city, after leaving the old -Mission, our conversation turns upon the pleasures of the day and of the -interesting and beautiful things we have seen. We are all well pleased -with our day’s outing, especially the Colonel, who is in a high good -humor, for had he not obtained what no one else could get, a substantial -memento of his visit to the famous Baldwin ranch? “I am going to have -this shoe decorated with ribbon and hung up in my parlor,” asserts the -Colonel, as he searches in the bottom of the coach for his prize. “I -guess not,” exclaims Mrs. Shaw, as she gives him a dig in the ribs with -her elbow, “that’s my shoe you’ve got hold of.” “But where’s my horse -shoe? Has any one got it? Has any one seen my horse shoe?” excitedly -inquires the Colonel, as he makes another dive into the bottom of the -coach. “I think it flew away,” quietly remarks Mrs. Wyman, as she draws -her feet up and out of the way. “Who ever saw a shoe fly,” snaps the -Colonel, as he continues rummaging in the bottom of the vehicle. “I -have,” answers Manager Wyman, removing his hat, exposing a pate as -devoid of hair and as bald as a door knob, from which he brushes an -imaginary fly. “I saw a horse fly, but didn’t notice if he had shoes -on,” observes Mrs. McKernan, keeping her eye on the Colonel, who is -growing desperate in his failure to find - -[Illustration: AN AVENUE IN PASADENA, CALIFORNIA.] - -his treasure. But it was gone; it had escaped from the bottom of the -coach in some way, and we all sympathize with Brother Layfield in his -bereavement, now that we find he has actually lost his valued souvenir. - -We enter the city through East Side Park, which is a most beautiful and -delightful drive. We bid goodbye to “Mac” and his spanking team and -hurry to our dining car, where we arrive just in time for one of -McDonald’s dandy dinners, which we heartily enjoy after such a busy day. -We find a number of our party had taken trips similar to our own, and -over nearly the same route; others had ascended Mt. Lowe, been away -above the clouds; some had taken a run down to Santa Monica and sported -in the surf of the Pacific; some to Santa Catalina Island, the alleged -“Garden of Eden” of the Pacific coast. All express themselves as having -had an exceedingly good time and are laying plans for the morrow. There -are many places we would like to visit and many things we would like to -see, but our time is too limited “to take it all in,” for we are to -leave here to-morrow at 2.00 P. M. We have friends in San Diego we had -intended to visit and there are fish at Catalina Island we had expected -to catch; both friends and fish will have to charge their disappointment -or pleasure, as the case may be, to the turbid waters of the Rio Grande. - -Dinner being over, the most of our people take a walk up town and enjoy -a promenade through the brilliantly-lighted streets, admiring the -handsomely-furnished stores, with goods and wares arranged and exposed -in so tempting a manner that many trinkets and knicknacks are purchased -for souvenirs. Returning to the train at an early hour and hearing such -a favorable account of the trip to Mt. Lowe from some who were there -to-day, we conclude to join a party that is going in the morning and -“take it in.” One by one and two by two our people keep dropping in like -unto the oft-mentioned fowls that “come home to roost,” until only a few -of the “boys,” as usual, are left outside the fold, and to them I need -again ascribe “_unwritten history_.” As I leave the smoker to retire to -my berth in the “Marco” I see our faithful George H. (Alfalfa) Anderson -making up his bed, under the pillow of which he carefully places our -“artillery,” and I feel we are as safe as though surrounded by a cordon -of Gatling guns. - - -THURSDAY, MAY 20th. - -Arose early this morning and found the weather not very favorable for -our contemplated trip to Mt. Lowe, being cloudy and somewhat foggy, but -we concluded to go, so after breakfast the party, consisting of Mr. and -Mrs. Wyman, Mr. and Mrs. Layfield, Mr. and Miss Barrett, Mr. Kilgore, -Mr. Sloane, Mr. Haas, Mr. Crispen, Mr. Denniston, two guests--Miss R. -Stradling and Mr. A. L. Bailey--George H. Alfalfa Anderson, and myself, -under the escort of Brother Ed. Butcher, of Los Angeles Division No. -111, who is a passenger conductor on the Los Angeles Terminal Road, -boarded a car at 10.00 A. M. Eastern (7.00 A. M. Pacific) on the -Pasadena and Los Angeles Electric Railway, conducted by W. A. Brown, and -started on a never-to-be-forgotten trip to Mt. Lowe. - -Out through the suburbs of Los Angeles, with its - -[Illustration: GREAT CABLE INCLINE, MT. LOWE RAILWAY.] - -beautiful rose-embowered cottages and palatial residences and lawns of -palms and tropical shrubbery, on through miles of country districts, -rich with groves of golden fruit, through eden--Pasadena to Altadena, -where we change cars for another electric road that carries us for about -three miles over hill and dale, through ravines and across -frightful-looking chasms, but always tending upward, until at an -elevation of 2200 feet Rubio Cañon is reached and we are at the foot of -the great cable incline, claimed to be the most wonderful cable road in -the world, extending from Rubio Pavilion to Echo Mountain, a distance of -3000 feet. It makes a direct ascent of 1350 feet. Looking up at the -wonderful construction it seems to almost pierce the sky; its summit is -enshrouded in a veil of fog that hides it from our view. - -“I don’t quite like the looks of that,” ventures Brother Kilgore, -looking over his glasses with a scrutinizing glance, as his eyes follow -the great incline up to where it is lost in the fog. “I guess it’s all -right; I don’t think we’ll find it as terrifying as it looks to be; -anyhow, the proof of the pudding is in eating it, and I for one am going -up,” answers Brother Sloane. “Charlie, if you go I will go,” responds -his bosom friend and chum, Brother Haas. “There is no danger I will not -share with you, and perhaps we can see some mountain goats.” - -“Or capture a deer,” adds Brother Denniston, who is keeping pretty close -to Miss Stradling, for that young lady looks as though she needs -sympathy and companionship in this trying ordeal. - -“Do you think it’s safe, Charlie?” quietly inquires Mrs. Wyman of her -husband as we start to ascend to the landing where we board the car. -“Yes, perfectly safe,” replies Manager Wyman. “Human skill and ingenuity -can make it no safer. They claim they never had an accident since the -road has been in operation. The cable by which these cars are drawn has -been tested to stand a strain of 100 tons, and the cars when loaded do -not weigh five tons, so there is no danger at all.” “If I thought there -was the least danger I wouldn’t go up,” utters Brother Layfield, “but I -know there isn’t a bit.” Mrs. Layfield makes no comment, but clings -nervously to the Colonel’s arm. The rest of the party follow without any -apparent trepidation with the exception of “Alfalfa,” who looks a trifle -pale. - -We are all comfortably seated in the “White Chariot” car, which is -constructed without canopy or covering, with seats arranged in -amphitheatre style, one above the other, facing the foot of the incline, -an excellent arrangement for affording an unobstructed view. - -The signal is given, the machinery is set in motion, and quietly and -smoothly we start on our trip toward the sky. - -“Those mountain peaks you see just beyond Rubio Cañon are called the -‘Rubio Amphitheatre,’” explains the guide who accompanied the car. “You -will notice that as we ascend those mountains seem to rise one after -another and follow us.” We did notice them; we were looking right at -them and couldn’t help it. It was an optical illusion that was rather -startling. We thought at first that the mountains would overtake us, but -they didn’t. “This is ‘Granite Gorge,’” continues the guide, as we enter -a great cut that rears its granite walls on - -[Illustration: ECHO MOUNTAIN HOUSE AND CAR ON THE 48 PER CENT. GRADE, -MT. LOWE RAILWAY.] - -either side of us and lose sight of the mountains that are chasing us. -“The workmen on this road were eight months in hewing this passage -through these rocks, and before a tie or rail was laid they had to -clamber to these rugged heights and carry their implements with them, -and much of the material used in the construction of the road, such as -water, cement, and lumber, had to be carried on the backs of burros and -on the shoulders of men. This bridge that we are now crossing is called -the MacPherson Trestle, and there is no other bridge like it in the -world. It is 200 feet long and 100 feet higher at one end than the -other. If it were not for the clouds you could obtain a good scenic view -from here.” Clouds! We had not thought of it before, so interested were -we in the talk of our guide, but we notice now that the sun is shining, -and looking up we see no vestige of a cloud in the bright, blue sky -above. - -Looking again, beneath and beyond us, such a sight meets our gaze as our -eyes had never rested on before. A vast white sea of billowy vapor -overhangs the great San Gabriel Valley and hides it from our view. This -alone is worth the trip to see--an immense heaving sea of clouds, an -ocean of fleecy vapor billows that surge and roll and toss as though -seeking for a shore of sand and rock upon which to spend their restless -force. Halting at the summit of the great cable incline, we find we have -arrived at the Echo Mountain House, where we change cars, taking an -electric road called the Alpine Division of the Mt. Lowe Railway, which -extends from Echo Mountain to Mt. Lowe Springs, where “Ye Alpine Tavern” -is located. - -As we board the Alpine Division observation car I again cast my eyes -over toward the San Gabriel Valley, where a few minutes before we had -beheld the battle of the clouds. What a grand transformation! The clouds -have been dispersed as though by magic, and lying spread out in the -valley 3500 feet beneath us is a panorama of such incomparable and -inconceivable beauty and loveliness that we gaze for a moment -enraptured, speechless, spellbound, dazed. They must be all looking, for -there hasn’t been a word uttered for a minute. I am feasting my eyes on -the supreme beauty of the scenery and drinking deeply at the fountain of -delight; at the same time I’m trying to count the squares in the city of -Pasadena and the orange groves that dot the valley. “It’s all there, but -it’s a good ways off,” remarks Charlie Sloane, breaking the spell of -silence. “My gracious! isn’t that fine? It beats looking across Jersey -through the crown of Billy Penn’s hat,” exclaims George Alfalfa in a -guarded tone. - -The electric current is turned on, our car starts quietly off, and for -four miles we pass over the most wonderfully constructed railway in the -world. We do not go very fast--in fact, we would rather not, for taking -everything into consideration this is not very good ground for -“scorching,” and going at a gentle, easy pace lessens our chances of -being rolled a few thousand feet down the side of a mountain. Not that -any of us are afraid of being “dumped”; we didn’t come up here to be -scared, but out of curiosity to see what it is like, and the more slowly -the car moves the better able we are to see and the longer we can look -at what we do see. - -This entire roadbed, hewn out of the sides of the mountain, forms a -solid granite ledge upon which the - -[Illustration: MT. LOWE RAILWAY, CALIFORNIA.] - -road is built, and it is always a towering wall of rock on one side and -a yawning chasm on the other. To this there is but one exception, the -“Grand Circular Bridge.” From this structure you can look from both -sides down into the depths. If you don’t want to look you can shut your -eyes. - -Professor Lowe has constructed this railway at a cost of many hundred -thousand dollars to enable tourists to penetrate the heart of the Sierra -Madre Mountain, that they may form some conception of what an isolated -mountain wilderness is like. It is all here and ever-present, in -boundless, grand profusion--mountains, wilderness, isolation--an -awe-inspiring, infinite trinity of grandeur, that almost makes your head -swim and your heart stand still. Our tracks shelve the very summit of -the sloping walls of mighty cañons, and you can look down 3000 feet into -their wooded depths. - -We arrive in due time at Mt. Lowe Springs, the terminus of the road, and -are 5000 feet above the level of the sea. From here we can see the -summit of Mt. Lowe, two miles away and 1000 feet above us. It is -intended to extend the tracks to this point in the near future. A bridle -path leads to it, and you can make the trip now on the back of a burro. -A pathway leads to “Inspiration Point,” half a mile away, from which it -is said magnificent views can be had. Our time is limited; we hasten to -the famous spring, drink of its ice-cold water, and then visit the -homelike, cozy club house, “Ye Alpine Tavern,” and give it a hurried -inspection. - -Nestling among giant oaks and pines, it occupies a romantic and -picturesque location; in style of architecture it is attractive and -unique, being something on the order of a Swiss chalet. It is two and a -half stories in height, with ground dimensions of 40 by 80 feet; -contains 20 bed rooms, a large dining room, billiard hall, and kitchen. -It is built of granite and Oregon pine, finished in the natural color of -the wood. The design of the main hall or dining room is the most -striking feature connected with the construction of the building. -Artistically located around the room in uniform order are five cheerful -open fireplaces, in the largest of which swings a mammoth iron pot on a -huge crane. It is 7 feet high and 12 feet wide. Blocks of granite have -been placed in its corners for seats, and over the mantel above it is -the somewhat flattering but old-time hospitable inscription, “YE -ORNAMENT OF A HOUSE IS YE GUEST WHO DOTH FREQUENT IT.” On one side of -this mantel is a brick oven of ancient design; on the other side is a -receptacle of peculiar and unique construction and suspicious -appearance, which no doubt contains the liquid nourishment of the -establishment. - -“I wonder what they keep in this funny-looking cupboard,” whispers -Brother Kilgore in my ear, as we were looking around in the dining room. - -“Suppose we look and see,” I reply, as I attempt to open the door. “No, -you don’t; it’s fastened. I’ll see who’s got the key,” is the rejoinder -as he hurriedly walks away. Passing outside, I notice a number of the -party are getting aboard the car, and as I join them the motorman shouts -“All aboard.” “Are our people all here?” asks Manager Wyman, as he casts -his eyes over the crowd. “Brother Denniston isn’t here. I think he went -to Inspiration Point,” replies Brother Barrett. “Nor Brother Kilgore,” I -add. “He went to look for a - -[Illustration: CIRCULAR BRIDGE, MT. LOWE RAILWAY, CALIFORNIA.] - -man with a key.” “I’m here,” says Brother Kilgore, as he emerges from -the door of the “Tavern,” wiping his mouth in a suspicious manner; at -the same time Brother Denniston and his “company” are seen coming from -toward the “spring” and soon we are “all aboard” and “homeward bound.” -At one point on our descent three or four mountain goats are seen on the -track ahead of us, but on our approach they quickly disappear from sight -in the thicket. It is with difficulty that Brothers Sloane and Haas can -be restrained from leaping overboard and giving chase. Thirty minutes -stop at Echo Mountain gives us an opportunity of visiting the beautiful -hotel at this point, the “Echo Mountain House,” which is located on the -summit of Echo Mountain and is said to be one of the finest equipped -mountain hotels in the world. From its veranda and balcony hundreds of -visitors daily view with rapture and delight the wonderful scenery of -the San Gabriel Valley and its surroundings. A small cannon fired off on -the lawn has a startling effect, and proves that the mountain is not -misnamed. The report echoes from peak to peak and then seems to go -bounding and tumbling down the cañons and ravines, growing fainter and -fainter until it gradually dies away in the distance. - -The great “World’s Fair search light,” purchased by Professor Lowe and -established on Echo Mountain, is operated nightly for the pleasure and -entertainment of visitors. The power of its light is that of 3,000,000 -candles and its rays can be seen for 150 miles on the Pacific Ocean. Its -beams falling upon a newspaper 35 miles away will enable a person to -easily read it. Our time is up, and boarding the “White Chariot” we -commence our descent of the great cable incline, reaching the bottom in -safety. A photographer is on hand and “pressed the button” on the car -and contents. - -On our trip to and fro to-day we passed in sight of the beautiful home -of Professor Lowe, near Pasadena, and returning I had the pleasure and -honor of meeting and conversing with him during the twenty minutes we -rode together on the Pasadena and Los Angeles Electric Railway. I was -introduced to the professor by Brother Edward Butcher, and we took a -seat together. He is a large man of fine appearance and carries himself -with the graceful mien of a brigadier-general; his eye is bright and -kind, his voice gentle and agreeable, and we are the best of friends in -a minute. “Professor,” I remarked, “there are but a very few of the -people, I warrant, who ascend that marvelous cable incline, who enjoy -the pleasure and excitement of that unequaled ride among the wild, -magnificent mountain scenery of your Alpine Division on a comfortable -trolley car, that ever give a second thought to the men who endured -hardships and risked their lives to even survey a road like that. I have -thought of this several times to-day, and would like to ask how you ever -induced men to traverse those cliffs and peaks and cañon walls, where a -mountain goat can hardly secure a footing?” “Well,” answered the -professor, “you know there are no hardships so severe they will not be -endured, no risks so great they will not be taken, if only men have a -leader to follow and are well paid for following him. Long before a -measurement was taken or a stake was driven, when the idea that such a -road were possible first entered my mind, I spent many days with only an -employed attendant my companion, - -[Illustration: YE ALPINE TAVERN, MT. LOWE, CALIFORNIA.] - -in making my way from Rubio Cañon to the crest of the highest peak along -the route which you traveled with so much pleasure to-day in less than -90 minutes. I headed every surveying party that went out in the interest -of the enterprise. I have personally directed all the operations that -have required engineering skill and experience; I have expended almost -one and a half millions of dollars, and my work isn’t completed yet.” -“That is an enormous sum of money to invest in a venture, or rather an -experiment, that you don’t know will pay till you try it,” I ventured to -assert, while secretly admiring the indomitable courage and spirit of -the man. “Yes, it is a great deal of money,” was the reply, and I -imagined that a sigh accompanied the words. “As a financial scheme I -believe it will be a failure. I have no hope of ever getting out of it -what money I have put in it, but to me this is only a secondary matter. -I’ve watched a vague visionary dream grow into a bright reality; I’ve -had cherished theories, condemned as insane and impracticable, converted -into substantial facts; I have solved the greatest engineering and -mechanical problems that ever taxed the brain of man; I’ve won the -hardest, toughest intellectual battle that ever was fought; I’ve had an -all-absorbing ambition gratified, and I feel that I have, in a measure, -got the worth of my money.” As the professor ceased speaking there was a -bright look in his eye and a happy expression on his countenance as -though it were a great pleasure to reflect on the great work he had -accomplished. The car was approaching his destination; he arose to go -and extended his hand. As I took it he said, “When you come again you -can extend your ride to the summit of the mountain, for I propose to -complete the work in a short time; and you must stay longer, for in your -hurried trip to-day there is much you didn’t see, and I would wish that -you could see it all; goodbye.” The car stopped and he was gone. As he -disappeared from view I said to myself, “There goes a wonderful man.” - -Continuing a few blocks further we left the car and visited the Chamber -of Commerce and spent half an hour among its interesting relics and -curiosities. When we reach our train the most of our people are there, -the time for starting being almost up. We bid adieu to the kind friends -we have made while here, and who did all they could to make our short -stay a pleasant one, and at 5.00 P. M. Eastern (2.00 P. M. Pacific) we -pull out of the station at Los Angeles bound for San Francisco and the -“Golden Gate,” 482 miles away. - -We are still on the Southern Pacific’s famous “Sunset Route,” which we -have followed since leaving Sierra Blanca. S. P. engine No. 1826 is -pulling us, with Engineer Charlie Hill at the throttle. She is fired by -E. Homes, who has a hard task on hand, for there are steep grades to -climb and our train is heavy. William Perkins is conducting the train; -the brakemen are J. B. Freet and F. W. Bunnell. These three gentlemen -are brothers of the “Order” and members of El Capitan Division No. 115, -of San Francisco. They are members of the entertainment committee from -that division and have been selected to run our train that they may be -able to look after our welfare. J. C. Fielding, also a member of El -Capitan Division and of the committee, is a guest on the train, along -with Brother Twist, - -[Illustration: T. S. C. LOWE.] - -of Golden Gate Division No. 364, of Oakland, Cal., also a member of the -committee. - -Following the course of Los Angeles River as we leave the “City of -Angels” behind us, we pass for quite a distance through a fine farming -country, where hundreds of acres of barley are being gathered for hay -into great heaps and stacks. - -“Brother Freet,” I ask, as we sit near the wide-open door of the baggage -compartment looking out on the fleeting landscape, “do they feed their -stock altogether on barley hay in California?” “Not entirely. What makes -you think so?” is the inquiring answer. “It looks so from the fact that -in all the arable country we have passed through since entering this -State, outside of fruit and flower culture, I have noticed no other -product than barley, with the exception of a few patches of alfalfa -grass,” I reply. “You are right,” is the response, “so far as concerns -that part of the country you have seen; although if you traverse the -State from end to end you will see comparatively little of it. There are -sections of California where abundant crops of corn are raised, but -while it has never achieved distinction as a corn producing State, it is -second to no State in the Union in its yield of wheat. The entire area -of the State of Indiana would be insufficient to cover the wheat fields -of California, which yielded last year almost 40,000,000 bushels; but -speaking of barley, cut as it is in a green state after the grain has -formed and cured for hay, it makes a valuable and nourishing food for -stock, upon which they will fatten without additional grain feed.” - -Since leaving Los Angeles our course has been upward, and now as we -pass the little station of Fernando, we are close to the San Fernando -Range, 25 miles northwest of Los Angeles and over 1100 feet above it. A -tunnel one and one-quarter miles in length pierces the above-named -range, and into this we now plunge. It is a dark hole, an undesirable -place to be; our train runs slowly, and the cars become filled with -smoke and gas that is almost suffocating; we do no talking and as little -breathing as possible for an interval of ten or twelve minutes, when we -again emerge into the open air and sunshine and breathe freely once -more. We have left the scenes of agricultural industry behind us and -again enter a region of unproductive sterility and aridity. We pass -through the little town of Saugus, from which place a branch road runs -to Santa Barbara, yet the country don’t improve. We are strongly -reminded of the Colorado Desert: alkali dust, glaring sand, stunted sage -brush, and cactus on every hand. The elevation here is about 3000 feet -higher than the Colorado Desert, but the conditions seem about the same. - -Midway between Saugus and Mojave we enter the western border of the -Great Mojave Desert, which we follow for several miles; here we are -treated to novel, interesting, and remarkable scenery. On the right as -far as the range of vision extends stretches the vast Mojave Desert, -with its lavish growth of magnificent giant cactus, many of them from 25 -to 40 feet in height, with branched and bushy tops, from the centre of -which in many cases can be seen protruding an immense pinkish bloom. - -This great desert, with its wonderful and peculiar plant life, extends, -we are told, away off hundreds of miles into Nevada and Arizona. On the -left the scenery is different. You gaze off and across the great -Antelope Valley, 80 miles in width, level as a floor and almost devoid -of tree or bush. It looks brown and barren, but we are informed it is -considered good grazing territory. The grass, though dead and dry at -certain seasons of the year, like that of the San Simon Valley in -Arizona, retains all its nutritious qualities and flavor, and stock feed -upon it with apparent relish. - -Owing to unfavorable natural conditions and surroundings, it is hardly -expected that we will encounter a very extensive population, but what -few people we do meet who are residents of the country are principally -employees of the railroad company, around whose stations usually cluster -a group of snug and neat-looking cottages built by the company for the -use of the men and their families. Good water can be obtained at a -reasonable depth, and wind mills are used for pumping. Patches of ground -are irrigated and cultivated, upon which are grown flowers, fruit, and -vegetables. Our train slows up and stops for water at one of these oases -in the desert, and looking out the window I discover that it is quite a -town. A number of our people have left the train and are looking around. - -Alighting from the train in front of the station I look up and see the -old familiar homelike name of Lancaster above the door. Everything bears -evidence of thrift and good living, even to an almost empty ice-cream -can that sits inside the waiting-room door, and which, with other -things, is being inspected and investigated. Time is up, “All aboard” is -shouted, we scramble on, and as the train moves off Brother Houston, -who is fast in the ice-cream can, came near being left. At Mojave, -another thrifty town of considerable size, where connections are made -with the Atlantic and Pacific Railway, our train stops to attach a -helper engine. After a delay of five minutes we resume our journey, -assisted by Engineer Cain and Fireman Curren with engine No. 1808. - -As we leave Mojave it is growing dusk, and by the time we reach the -summit of the grade and stop at Tehachapi it has become quite dark. This -we all exceedingly regret, for we are now about to enter upon the most -wonderful and interesting 33 miles of road on the whole Southern Pacific -system, where we drop from an elevation of 4025 feet to that of 672. -Making the descent of 3553 feet requires an almost continual application -of the air brakes, which heats the brake shoes red hot and makes the -fire fly. We feel concerned and wish we could see. We know at one time -we are going around a sharp curve and at another time pitching down a -grade much steeper than usual, and very often we find we are doing both -at one and the same time. We look out of the window on one side and see -a towering mountain wall, so near you can touch it with your hand; we -look out on the other side, and see nothing, only a seemingly -illimitable depth, filled with darkness and uncertainty; and this is the -grand, picturesque Tehachapi Pass, whose sinuous windings, devious ways, -complex maneuvering, and bewildering curves compels the railroad to run -over top and underneath itself, forming the extraordinary famous Loop. - -We had heard much of it, and we all expected to see it; our only hope -and desire now is to get safely away from it and beyond it to straight -track and level country once more. All good things must have an ending, -and bad things can’t last forever, so the novelty and excitement of our -toboggan-like mountain ride and its two hours’ suspense is over as our -train stops at Bakersfield, where another change of engines is made. - -It is now past midnight in Philadelphia, 12.50 A. M.; at Bakersfield it -is only 9.50 P. M., but many of our people are retiring, for it has been -a day fraught with pleasure and excitement, wearing both on the mind and -body, and we all need rest and plenty of it to prepare us for the -approaching morrow. “Captain,” I said, as Brother Perkins came down the -curtained aisle of the “Marco,” while I was wrestling with a refractory -collar button preparing to turn in, “will you kindly give me the number -of the engine that is drawing us and the names of the engineer and -fireman? I am trying to keep a record of the engines and crews that -handle us, and I don’t wish to miss any.” “Certainly,” is the response; -“we have engine No. 1417 that runs to Mendota, 140 miles; the engineer’s -and fireman’s names are Cole; the Cole Boys we call them--good, lively -fellows.” “With two live Coles in the cab and lots of them in the -firebox, I guess we will reach Mendota on time,” came the smothered -comment in a drowsy tone from the berth of Manager Wyman. - - -FRIDAY, MAY 21st. - -Awakened this morning about six o’clock by Mrs. S., always an early -riser, who exclaims, “Get up! get up! we’re almost there.” “Almost -where, my dear?” I sleepily inquire. “I don’t know where, but Mr. -Terry, Mr. Brown, Mr. Horner, and Mr. Springer are all up, and they say -we are nearly there,” she answers. I turn over, raise the blind, and -look out of the window. “And Mr. McDonald says we’re going to have an -early breakfast,” she adds, as she retreats down the aisle. That last -information she knows will fetch me if nothing else will, but I’m still -looking out of the window wondering where we are; thought at first we -had lost our way in the intricate descent of the Tehachapi Range, got -tangled up in the Loop, turned around, and were again entering Los -Angeles. - -What magic had been at work during the night? The world outside is -teeming with verdant vegetation. Fruit-laden trees, rose-burdened -bushes, green grass, and flowers everywhere. I quickly roll out of my -berth and dress, or rather I nearly roll out of my berth while quickly -dressing, for one inconvenience of this way of living is, you’ve got to -dress and then get out of bed, watching yourself very closely that you -don’t involuntarily get out before you’re ready, for when, with one leg -in your pants and about to put the other one in, your car hits a curve, -_look out_. - -The first person I meet as I enter the smoker is the conductor who is -running the train. “Good morning, captain; where are we?” I ask. “We are -entering Port Costa, 25 miles from Oakland,” he answers. “Have you time -to give me the number of your engine and the names of your crew?” I -inquire, with every-ready notebook in hand, as he was about turning -away, for the train is stopping at the station. “We left Mendota this -morning at two o’clock with engine No. 1408, Engineer Edwards, Fireman -Duran, Brakemen Owen and Todd, - -[Illustration: GEORGE W. BROWN, OF THE COMMITTEE.] - -and my name is Schu,” he hurriedly said as he left the car and enters -the telegraph office. In a short time Conductor Schu comes out of the -office with train orders and our train is soon on its way again. - -At 10.30 A. M. Eastern (7.30 Pacific) we reach Oakland (Sixteenth -Street), where we lay for an hour and a half. It is a tedious wait. We -cannot leave the train, for we do not know at what minute it might -conclude to go, and none of us want to get left. We stroll around, first -on one side of the train and then on the other, keeping one eye on it -for fear it will get away from us and careful not to get too far out of -its reach. We can see that Oakland is a large and beautiful city, and -learn that it has a population of 60,000 inhabitants; a place where -flowers bloom on the lawns, fruits mature in the orchards, vegetables -grow in the gardens, and grains are harvested in the fields each and -every month in the year. It has mountain scenery back of it and an ocean -view in front of it; another blooming paradise where desolating storms -are unknown and frosts and snows are never seen. - -Finding our train about to move we all get aboard and in a few minutes -are landed at Oakland Pier, where we wait half an hour for a boat to -convey us eight miles across the bay to San Francisco. We employ the -time in looking about the large, commodious waiting room that overlooks -the harbor. We can’t help noticing that this apartment contains -something that is never seen in a station waiting room on the -Pennsylvania Railroad system. A profusion of advertisements of all kinds -literally cover the walls, and occupying a space in the centre of the -floor is a large glass case containing a pyramid of bottles filled with -liquors of various kinds and brands, advertising the goods of a whiskey -firm down on Front Street. It is needless to say that there is a railing -around the exhibit and the door of the case is locked. One of the ticket -collectors, an active old gentleman, quick in his movements as a boy, -informs us that he has been in his present position for nineteen years; -and although seventy years old, the climate is so healthy he feels that -he is growing younger every day. - -It is announced that the boat is now ready, and we “walk the plank” -leading to the deck of the “Oakland,” which is soon plowing a furrow in -the waters of the bay as she heads for the “Queen City” of the Pacific. -It is not such a boat ride as one can term “lovely”; it is not even -agreeable. A chilly gale sweeps the deck that almost lifts you off your -feet. “Golly, it’s worse than a trip from Camden to Philadelphia in -December,” exclaims Brother Goff, as he turns up the collar of his coat. -“Or one from Jersey City to New York in February,” adds Brother -McKernan, seeking refuge behind a post. The most of us retire to the -more comfortable quarters of the cabin, where we find enjoyment in -viewing from the windows the immense bay and harbor, where are anchored -hundreds of vessels of all kinds and sizes. As the “Oakland” pokes her -nose against the San Francisco dock I look at my watch; it is 9.55 A. -M., Pacific time. We have just been twenty minutes coming across. A -speed of a mile in two and a half minutes is a pretty lively gait for a -ferryboat, but we are told the “Oakland” does it every trip. Under the -escort of Brother Perkins, we are loaded into cable cars and start on -our way to Sutro Garden and Golden Gate Park. - -I believe there’s hardly three squares of a level street in the whole -city of San Francisco. Such hills as we go up and such hills as we go -down we never saw in any city before. “Why, this is ten times worse than -Baltimore, and it’s bad enough, dear knows,” exclaims Mrs. Kalkman as -she catches Brother Cohee around the neck to save herself from falling -off the seat as the car shoots up an unusually steep acclivity. “Here, -here, don’t be so affectionate; Brother Kalkman and Mrs. Cohee are -looking at you,” warns Brother Cohee. “As if I’d hug you on purpose,” -she retorts, giving him a look of scorn. In many streets a horse and -wagon has never been seen; it would be impossible for a horse to draw a -wagon up those abrupt granite-paved hills. With the cable car almost on -end, we are descending one of those “shoot the chute” like declivities -extending for about three blocks, when I overhear a passenger, evidently -a resident of the neighborhood, say to Mrs. Shaw, who has “struck up” a -conversation with her, “We had a fire here in our neighborhood a short -time ago, and a driver of one of the fire engines tried to bring it down -this hill, when one of the horses fell down and the engine ran over it -and killed it, and it broke the engine all up and hurt the man; it was -just awful.” The car stops at the next corner and the woman gets off; -glancing back at the hill we have just descended her closing words, -“just awful,” strike me as being very appropriate. - -A few squares further and we abandon the cable cars and take a little -steam road called the “Ferries and Cliff” Railroad that carries us to -Sutro Park and bathing pavilion, owned by Adolph Sutro, a retired -millionaire merchant of San Francisco, and to the celebrated Cliff -House, near which are the far-famed Seal Rocks. We wandered for a time -through the beautifully laid out statuary, shrubbery, and flower-adorned -grounds of Sutro, then to the great pavilion, that not only contains a -large museum of interesting relics and curiosities, but it is here that -the noted Sutro baths are located, said to be the finest equipped -artificial bathing pools in the world. - -We cannot stand the temptation, and soon many of us are robed in bathing -suits and are diving, plunging, rolling, and splashing in the salt -waters of the Pacific, brought here and warmed to the proper -temperature, permitting bathing to be indulged in the entire year. It is -needless to say that we have lots of sport, and those who decline to -indulge will regret it. There are several strangers in the pool, and -Brother Sheppard has taken quite a fancy to one young fellow, whom he is -trying to learn to swim and dive. In an adjoining pool is rather a -forlorn-looking duck; it must be tame, for it is quietly swimming around -undisturbed by the noise we make. “I think it’s hungry,” says Brother -McCarty, “I wish I had some crumbs.” The creature must have heard him, -for we imagine it gave him a grateful look. - -From the baths we go to the Cliff House, and from the windows of the -inclosed balcony, that almost overhangs the waves that dash and roar on -the rocks beneath, we watch with interest the monster seals that by the -hundreds climb and crawl and slip and slide over the crags that rise -from the bay, while we regale ourselves with pork and beans and coffee. -There is a strong, chilly wind blowing, and we do not tarry long on the -bluff outside that overlooks the bay and seals. - -[Illustration: NEW CLIFF HOUSE AND SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO.] - -It is twenty minutes past two as we get aboard a train on the Park and -Ocean Railroad that will convey us to Golden Gate Park. We do not find -this world-famed park very different in appearance from other parks we -have seen. It is all nice--very nice; beautiful trees and plants and -shrubbery, velvety green grass and bright blooming flowers, fine -fountains and lakes of shimmering water. All this we see and enjoy, but -we have seen the like before, time and time again. Some are bold enough -to so express themselves, and it catches Brother Perkins’ ear, who -good-naturedly says, “My dear friends, there is but one Golden Gate Park -in all the world. There are 1040 acres here of as fine a park as there -is anywhere under the sun, and when we consider that 25 years ago this -was all a barren tract of drifting sand hills, that everything you see -growing has been planted and is kept alive and green and blooming by a -regular and almost constant application of water, when you remember -this, then you will feel and think that this park is a little different -from any other that you have seen.” - -We had already commenced to think it was. Amongst groves of trees are -great inclosures containing native buffalo, elk, and deer, with so much -room to roam that they hardly feel the restraint of captivity. We enter -the immense aviaries, where many varieties of birds and squirrels flit -and chirp and scamper and chatter with all the freedom and unconcern of -an unlimited out-door life. As we leave this great cage with its -sprightly, vociferous occupants I hear Brother Reilly say, “McCarty has -got a ‘mash.’” I don’t quite know what it is that Brother McCarty has -got, but suppose it is some escaped animal or bird he has captured. I -turn and look, to find him surrounded by ladies of our party, who seem -to be trying to protect him from impending harm. Looking closer, I see -disappearing among the shrubbery McCarty’s “mash,” the cause of all the -trouble, and it is only the poor bedraggled duck of Sutro’s bath that -Brother McCarty had thought looked hungry, and our ladies had scared it -off. Brother Reagan would have recaptured it but for Miss Ella’s -restraining hand, and the curiosity is lost. - -We are all pretty tired when at last the street cars are boarded and we -are on our way to the ferry. Some are going to return to our train, -which lies in Oakland, and some will remain in this city. Mrs. S. and -myself called on Mrs. David Chambers, who, with her son and daughter, -Willie and Effie, live on Mission Street. Years ago Mrs. Chambers and -her family were neighbors to us in West Chester, Pa. Willie, when but a -lad, was advised to try the climate of the Pacific coast for his health. -He found both health and lucrative employment. Ten years ago he sent -East for his mother and sister. We find them to-day enjoying excellent -health and nicely and comfortably fixed. We are given a warm, cordial -welcome and persuaded to spend the night with them. - -In the evening after dinner Willie took me out to see the town. The -ladies declined to go, preferring to remain indoors and talk over old -times. Met Leslie Collom, a young gentleman friend of the Chambers’, but -he having other engagements could not go. Willie knows the town and I -follow where he leads. It has long been a desire with me to see San -Francisco’s - -[Illustration: PARAPET, SUTRO HEIGHTS, SAN FRANCISCO.] - -“_Chinatown_,” and for three hours we explore its darkness and its -mysteries. We do not attempt to go very far up and we don’t try to get -very far down--we steer about on a level; but we see enough to convince -me that Chinatown is all that it is said to be. You don’t have to ascend -into rickety, reeking lofts or descend into gloomy, foul dens to witness -their degradation, weakness, and misery; far back in dark, forbidding -alleys and bystreets, which make your flesh creep to traverse, you can -find them huddled together on benches and shelves, like chickens on a -roost, enveloped in disgusting, stupefying smoke. - -On our way home we dropped into a private museum and saw one of the -rarest and most wonderful pieces of Japanese art in the world, a -realistic, life-size statue of a man carved from wood. It is claimed -that this work has been examined by learned scientific men, skilled in -anatomy and physiology, and not a line or lineament of the skin surface -of the human body has been omitted in this delicate, intricate carving. -The finger nails are there and all the fine lines that can be traced on -the inside of the hand and fingers. There are many lines on the surface -of the human body that require the aid of a magnifying glass to discern; -with the glass all these lines can be seen carved on this wonderful -piece of art. It is midnight when we get home, and, thoroughly tired, we -are soon in bed and in the land of dreams. - - -SATURDAY, MAY 22d. - -Arose this morning about half-past six, and after breakfast, accompanied -by Leslie Collom, went to the Palace Hotel, where we met Brothers Wyman -and Layfield with their ladies. Brother Wyman had planned a trip to San -José and was expecting others of the party, but a number of them being -exhausted, worn out by an all night’s effort to explore the length, -breadth, height, and depth of Chinatown, were still in bed. The others -were too much interested in the beautiful city of Oakland and its -environments to come, for we hear the good people over there are showing -them a royal time, the municipal authorities giving them the freedom of -the city and the railway company the freedom of their lines. Finding -that no others are coming, we six board a Southern Pacific train on the -Coast Division, that extends from San Francisco to Monterey, bound for -San José, a ride of fifty miles. Mr. Collom is a very much appreciated -member of our little party, as he points out from time to time much that -interests us. As the train pulls out through the city he shows us the -church where Blanche Lamont and Minnie Williams were found murdered and -a little further on he points out the house where Durrant, the convicted -murderer had lived. - -The road runs between the ocean and the bay and as we pass the station -of Ocean View a broad expanse of the Pacific greets our vision. At Baden -we get pretty close to the shore of the bay and follow it until we leave -Burlingame, a distance of about eight miles. We pass Menlo Park and Palo -Alto, when our attention is called by Mr. Collom to a group of -low-built, red-roofed, substantial-looking buildings, a short distance -from the road on our right, almost hidden from view by the trees that -cluster about them. “That,” says Mr. Collom, “is the renowned Leland -Stanford University, founded in 1885 by the multi-millionaire Leland -Stanford and his wife as a monument to the memory of their only child, -Leland, Jr., who had died a short time before. Eighty-three thousand -acres of land, valued at $20,000,000, was dedicated by a deed of trust -for the establishment of this institution. Mr. Stanford selected the -site for the location of the buildings, and the corner stone was laid in -1887, ten years ago. Last year the school register showed an enrollment -of 1100 pupils. Tuition is free, both males and females are admitted, -and the students are from all parts of America.” - -As we leave Mountain View Station Mr. Collom suggests that we now give -the scenery on the left of the train our attention, at the same time -pointing out in the far distance a mountain peak, saying, “San José is -10 miles from here, and almost on a direct line with this point, and the -crest of that mountain, 30 miles away, is Mt. Hamilton, where the famous -Lick Observatory is located. It has an elevation of almost 4500 feet, -and if you only had time to go up there it is a trip worth taking.” - -Leaving Santa Clara Station we pass near a large, fine park, among the -trees of which can be seen beautiful, substantial buildings. “That is -Santa Clara Female College,” said Mr. Collom. - -The train now enters San José, and we alight at the station. A “Vendome” -hack is in waiting, which we enter, and are driven to that superb -hostelry, said to be one of the finest hotels in California. It is -situated in the centre of a beautiful 12-acre park, only a short -distance from the railroad station. Not having long to stay, after a few -minutes rest we bid the genial host good-day and start out for a little -walk. - -“We will return by the narrow-gauge road,” says Brother Wyman, “if we -can find the station.” “A man told me a little while ago that it is only -five blocks over in this direction,” replies the Colonel, indicating -with his finger the way we should go. “Yes, the narrow-gauge road runs -through that part of the town, but I think you will find it farther than -five blocks,” remarks Mr. Collom. “Well, we want to see the town, -anyway, and we’ll take our time,” responded the Colonel. “This is a -pretty large town as well as a pretty old one, is it not, Mr. Collom?” I -ask. “Yes,” is the answer. “It was first settled when Santa Clara -Mission was founded, 120 years ago. It has now a population of about -25,000, and is the county seat of Santa Clara County, one of the richest -counties in agricultural products and fruits in the State. Because of -the wealth of fertility surrounding it San José has long been known as -the ‘Garden City’ of California.” - -Sauntering along, with our eyes wide open for the sights of the town, -and keeping as much in the shade as possible, for the sun shines very -warm, we are getting all the enjoyment out of the situation possible; -but things are becoming less interesting. We are all hungry and the -ladies are becoming tired; we have already come seven blocks, and the -Colonel says, “We are nearly there; but to be sure of it I will ask this -man,” he adds, as a man leading a horse came around the corner toward -us. “My good man,” says the Colonel, “can you tell us how far it is to -the narrow-gauge railroad station from here?” “Yes, sir; ’bout five -blocks,” is the answer. “You’re sure it’s not ten?” retorts Brother -Wyman; but the man and horse, never stopping, were out of range, and the -shot missed the mark. - -“I’m hungry,” exclaims Mrs. Wyman. “So am I,” I add. “I guess we can all -eat if we have a chance,” asserts Brother Wyman. “We’ll look for a -restaurant,” says the Colonel. A walk of two squares farther brings us -to the looked-for establishment, which we enter, and after partaking of -a substantial lunch, I ask the man at the desk, and I try to do it -without feeling or agitation, making just the plain, quiet inquiry, -“Will you tell us, please, how far it is to the narrow-gauge railroad -station?” “Five blocks straight ahead,” is the pleasant, quiet reply, as -he waves his hand in the direction we are to go. Not a word from one of -our party. I take a second look at the man to see if I can discover in -that pleasant countenance the least shadow of deception; it is as -innocent and guileless as the face of day. - -We silently leave the place, and as we start up the street Mrs. -Layfield, taking the Colonel’s arm, gently asks, “John, are we going to -walk to San Francisco?” “Not if we can find the station,” says the -Colonel. - -We enter the large store of a wine merchant to look around, and are -courteously treated by the gentlemanly proprietor, who gave the ladies -each a bottle of wine. We have come four blocks and a half since lunch -and are looking for the station, when suddenly the Colonel exclaims, -“There’s the road; I thought that last fellow was telling the truth.” -“But that’s not the road we want; that’s a trolley road,” replies -Brother Wyman. “So it is,” admits the Colonel; “but there’s a man; I’ll -ask him,” he adds, referring to a man in uniform who was leaning up -against the fence. - -“For Lord’s sake,” pleads the Colonel, “will you tell us how far it is -to the narrow-gauge railroad station?” “About a square and a half,” -answers the man, smiling at the Colonel’s earnestness, “Are you sure -it’s no further than that?” asks the Colonel. “Quite sure,” is the -reply. “How soon can we get a train for San Francisco?” inquires Manager -Wyman. “In about an hour and a half. Where’re you from?” he answers and -asks at the same time. “From Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Where’s your -road go?” imitates Brother Wyman. The man laughs. “I’m unable to take -you home, for I don’t go that far,” he replies, “but I can take you -several miles and back through as fine a fruit country as you ever saw. -I am waiting to relieve the man on the car you see coming, and in a few -minutes I will be going back. The fare is only a nickel,” he adds, as a -hint that we musn’t expect to “deadhead” it. - -We conclude to go, to pass the time away, for we can easily get back in -time to catch our train. So we get aboard the car, pay our nickel, and -ride for several miles to a place called the Willows, which is the -terminus of the road. Here is located an immense cherry orchard, where -the crop is being gathered and crated ready for shipment to Eastern -markets. - -We are invited to help ourselves; it is half an hour before our car -starts back and we have time to accept the invitation. The ripest -cherries are the ones the packers reject, so we assisted the packers for -several minutes picking out the ripe cherries and packing them while the -packers packed the ones we didn’t pick. When we got tired of packing we -quit picking, and thanking the good people for the treat, we board the -car again and are soon spinning up the line among the apricot and cherry -orchards, the trees loaded with fruit. - -Arriving at our destination, we bid our friend, the conductor, goodbye, -and in a few minutes we reach the much-inquired-for “narrow-gauge -railroad station,” where we wait half an hour for the train. We find the -track composed of three rails; and as though to demonstrate to us the -use of the third rail, a freight train comes along made up of both -narrow and broad-gauge cars. It looks odd, for it is something we had -never seen before, and as the strange combination passes down the road -the Colonel remarks, “There is nothing but what we may expect to see.” - -In due time our train pulls into the station and we are soon seated in a -comfortable narrow-gauge coach and speeding toward Oakland. There are -many beautiful towns and residences located on this line, and as we draw -nearer its termination this fact becomes more noticeable, the town of -Alameda, through which we pass, possessing all the loveliness of a -fairyland with its palatial residences and magnificent lawns. - -Oakland, the “Athens of the Pacific,” is reached at last, and knowing -how fascinating and grand it is and how royally our people are being -treated, I am loath to leave; but our friends on the other side await -our coming, and bidding the manager, the Colonel, and the ladies good -night, Mr. Collom and I hie away to the ferry and across the bay, nor -stop until we are seated in Mrs. Chambers’ cozy dining room, appeasing -our appetites while recounting the incidents of the day. After dinner -Willie took his mother, Mrs. Shaw, and myself out to give us a view of -the city lights from “Park Heights.” A ride on the cable cars and -several changes brought us in about forty minutes to the “Heights.” - -From this high eminence we look down on a sight of unusual novelty and -grandeur. Spread out far beneath us is almost the entire city of San -Francisco, but the buildings are not visible, not one, only the millions -of bright, star-like lights that enable you to trace the streets and -mark the squares, and that twinkle and gleam from beneath like unto the -gems that beam down upon you from above. We look up, through a cloudless -atmosphere, and behold a firmament filled with brilliant, glittering -gems; we look down, and see what almost seems a reflection of what we -see above. Man, we know, is the author of all this grandeur that we see -beneath, but as to the Author of that magnificence far above we can but -speculate. - -Willie sees we are growing serious and says we need a change, so he -leads us around to the entrance that admits to the scenic railway, -chutes, haunted swing, and skating rink, where for an hour we have a -world of fun; so pleased are the ladies with the toboggan and the chutes -that it is with difficulty we get them started home. We have had another -full day, and when at eleven o’clock I find myself in bed, I discover -that I am very tired. After the excitement and exertions of the day are -over, when the tension and strain of over-taxed nerves and muscles relax -and reaction comes, then you understand in its fullest measure the -meaning of the expression, “I’m tired.” - - -SUNDAY, MAY 23d. - -Feeling that we need rest, and finding the full enjoyment of our need in -the pleasant home of Mrs. Chambers, we do not go out to-day until it is -time to leave - -[Illustration: JOHN H. REAGAN, OF THE COMMITTEE.] - -for the ferry, from which the boat will bear us to Oakland and to our -train, which is scheduled to leave this evening at seven o’clock. -Willie’s engagements had called him from home in the early morning. Mrs. -Chambers, Miss Effie, and Mr. Collom accompany Mrs. Shaw and myself to -Oakland and take dinner with us in the “Lafayette”; they are warm in -their praises of the comfort and luxury of our train and our enjoyable -manner of traveling. - -The hour of departure is drawing near and the many friends we have made -are gathered around to see us off. Mrs. T. E. Gaither, a former -Pennsylvanian, now a resident of Oakland, presents each one of the -tourists with a bouquet of fine roses gathered from her splendid, -spacious lawn of ever-blooming sweetness. The inevitable “All aboard” is -shouted, the last hand shake is given, and our train leaves behind -another garden spot of grandeur. - -So far as present indications point, our people have all made good use -of their time and thoroughly enjoyed themselves. The kind brothers, of -Golden Gate and El Capitan Divisions and the many good people of Oakland -and San Francisco who contributed so much toward our pleasure are at the -present time subjects of the warmest praise and most flattering -comments, as incidents connected with our visit are being talked over -and discussed. I hear Brother Springer telling in a pleasing and -animated manner of a visit he and some others made to the palatial -residence and grounds of Lucius Booth, Esq. “Mr. Booth gave us,” says -Brother Springer, “the freedom of his magnificent lawn and park, that -were beautified and adorned with all kinds, varieties, and colors of -plants, fruits, and flowers. We were shown by Mr. Booth what he told us -is the greatest curiosity to be found, located in his park, two strong -natural springs, only eighteen inches apart; the flow of water from each -is about equal. From one spring gurgles a stream of sulphur water, -pungent to the smell and taste, with no indications of iron in its -composition, while from the other flows a stream strongly impregnated -with iron, but with no sign of a particle of sulphur in its ingredients. -It is a puzzle to the scientific world, and naturalists pronounce it a -‘marvelous freak of nature.’” - -I hear many of our people speak in the highest terms of Brother R. L. -Myers, secretary and treasurer of Golden Gate Division 364, who devoted -himself so faithfully and earnestly to the interests of our party. -Brothers Maxwell, Reagan, Waddington, and a number of others also speak -in glowing terms of the courtesy shown them by members of the Board of -Trade. - -We leave Oakland at 7.40 Pacific time (10.40 Eastern), attached to a -five-car train called the “Portland Flyer,” which makes the trip from -Oakland to Portland every five days. Engine 1793, in charge of Engineer -J. Edwards, is drawing the train, which is conducted by D. H. McIntire; -the brakemen are W. J. Mitchell and H. B. Stewart. A ride of 26 miles -brings us to Port Costa, where the engine and ten cars are run on to the -ferryboat “Salina” and transported across the strait of Carquicons to -the old town of Benicia, at one time the capital of California. - -The “Salina” is the largest ferryboat ever constructed, being 424 feet -long, 116 feet wide, and 18 feet deep; its capacity is forty-four cars -and an engine, regardless of size or weight. So smoothly does the -“Salina” run that there is not a tremor, jar, or motion to tell you she -is moving. Engine 1793 will run us to Davis, a distance of 77 miles. - -It has grown dark, a matter we always regret, for we never get tired -watching the fleeting, ever-varying landscape. With prospects of -mountains for to-morrow, we seek our little bed. - - -MONDAY, MAY 24th. - -Arose early this morning while it was hardly yet light, not wishing to -miss any of the grand scenery that I know we must be nearing. Very few -of our people are up, and making my way to the smoker I find the -conductor who is running the train. He is a newcomer, an entire -stranger, but I find him a very agreeable gentleman. “Where are we, -captain?” I inquire. “Well,” he answers pleasantly, “you are on the -famous Shasta Route of the Southern Pacific Railroad, bound from San -Francisco, Cal., to Portland, Ore., a distance of 772 miles. You have -traveled about 200 miles in your sleep. We left Red Bluff a short time -ago and are now approaching Redding, 260 miles from San Francisco and -over 500 from Portland.” “Where did you take charge of our train, -please, and what is the number of your engine and the names of your -crew?” I ask; “I’m trying to keep a little record of things as we go -along,” I add by way of explanation, as he looks askance at me. “I took -your train at Red Bluff; have engine 1769, Engineer J. Clark. I can’t -tell you the fireman’s name; my name is G. E. Morgan, and my brakemen -are J. Cook and J. Duncan. We take you to Ashland, a run of 206 miles. -It will be necessary for us to get a helper engine shortly, for we have -uphill work through here.” - -“What stream of water is this, captain?” I ask, as I look out of the -window and see a large surging, gurgling, dashing stream of water that -seems to be rushing past at a mile a minute gait. “That is the -Sacramento River, a stream whose course you ascend for 307 miles and -cross eighteen times between Sacramento and Sisson,” he answers, rising -and leaving the car as the train slows up and stops at a station. - -I follow, get off, and look around. On the right the leaping, tumultuous -waters of the Sacramento throw spray in your face as you stand and watch -them churning and foaming in resistless might as they sweep madly onward -toward the bay; on the left is the station and town of Redding. Several -of our people are up and out on the ground. We can see that the town is -a thriving business-looking place, and the station is a neat, -substantial building. Our engine is taking water and the men are loading -the tender with wood. “Why do you burn wood instead of coal in your -engines?” I ask Conductor Morgan, who is standing near. “For the sake of -economy, I suppose,” he replies. “Wood is plenty and cheap, while coal -is very scarce and expensive.” - -As we continue on our way I am reminded of Conductor Morgan’s assertion -that “wood is plenty,” for we see thousands of cords piled up along the -railroad track ready for use or awaiting shipment, and all the hills and -slopes and mountain sides within our range of vision are covered with -immense forests of pine and spruce. It is wild, picturesque mountain -scenery and we all enjoy it. - -Our train stops again, and looking out we see a name above the little -station door that makes us think of home. It is the beloved, familiar -Chester county name of Kennet. We notice that it is spelled with only -one “t,” but it is “Kennett,” all the same. Stepping off, I see them -attaching a helper engine and get its number, 1902. - -As we start again I step on board, and entering the smoker encounter -Brakeman Cook. “I suppose we have some climbing to do,” I remark; “I see -you’ve got an extra engine.” “Yes,” he responds, “from here to Sisson is -61 miles, and in that distance we make an ascent of 2884 feet, at one -point having a grade of 168 feet to the mile.” Passing Castle Crag we -see in the distance its bald, bare bluffs and peaks of rugged, towering -granite, and nestling in the shadow of the ridge can be seen its -picturesque hotel, a resort where those needing mountain air for health, -or mountain solitude for repose or pleasure, can find a safe, secure -retreat. - -From this point we catch our first glimpse of grand Mt. Shasta, 60 miles -away. We stop at Dunsmuir twenty minutes for our engines to renew their -supply of wood and water, and several passengers from the “Portland -Flyer,” taking advantage of the delay, went into a nearby hotel and got -lunch. A boy on the station platform with a large four-pound trout that -he had just caught, and which was still flapping its tail, attracts the -attention of Brothers Sloane and Haas, who want the train held four -hours while they go fishing, but the proposition is voted down. A -beautiful large lawn slopes from the Dunsmuir Hotel to the railroad, on -which tame mountain deer are browsing. Three miles from Dunsmuir we -reach Mossbrae Falls and Shasta Soda Springs. Our train stops, and with -cups, mugs, jugs, bottles, buckets, and pitchers we make a break for the -fountain. There is plenty of water there, and oh, how cold and sparkling -and invigorating it is! We drink our fill and fill our vessels and load -the train, but it would not be missed had we taken ten thousand times as -much. A roofed and stone-walled well that is inexhaustible is fed by -hundreds of little streams and rivulets and jets that flow and spurt -from the moss-covered mountain side, while here and there a spring more -powerful than the rest sends its slender column full fifty feet in the -air and then descends in a shower of mist around you. - -Where is the artist that can picture the beauty of Mossbrae Falls, a -mighty mountain side covered to its summit with giant pines, terminating -at its base in a sheer wall a hundred feet in height, its face covered -and festooned with bright green moss, through which descends in a -silvery sheen of spray the outpour from a thousand gushing springs? From -here to Sisson, a distance of 25 miles, our engines have trying uphill -work. There are mountains everywhere, mountains ahead of us and -mountains behind us, mountains above us and mountains below us, -mountains to the right and mountains to the left, but they are not the -bald, bare, treeless kind, for everywhere you look, except when you cast -your eye to Shasta’s crown, you will see a magnificent growth of pines -and cedars, shrubbery and ferns. You have always to look up or else look -down. Looking up you can scarcely ever see the pine-clad summits, for -your eye rests on the top of the car window before it reaches half way -up the mountain side; looking down you are all right, if you don’t get -dizzy, for in many places you can look down upon the tops of the tallest -trees a thousand feet below. - -With breath of flame and lungs of iron those powerful iron steeds puff -and cough and climb, and the long ten-car train, following their -laborious lead, winds and worms in and out and around those narrow -paths, traced and hewn in the mighty Sierra Nevada’s rugged sides by -persistent resistless Progress, ever guided, ever urged by the -indomitable will, restless perseverance, mechanical ingenuity, and -scientific skill of man. We climb and climb and worm and wind until -Sisson’s heights are reached, at an elevation of 3555 feet, and then we -rest awhile--rest to feast our eyes on Shasta’s indescribable majesty -and grandeur. - -This is the nearest point the railroad runs to that gigantic mound, and -it is twelve miles on an air line from where we sit and stand to the -glistening, snow-crowned crest of that mighty monarch. Why we should so -sensibly feel his presence and he so far away is a conundrum no one -asks; we only look and feel, and silently wonder what it is we feel. It -must be awe, for that which is great, we are told, inspires awe, and -Shasta is very, very great. Fourteen thousand four hundred and forty-two -feet is the estimated height of this colossal giant that pokes his apex -in the sky. Were it possible to grade him down or slice him off to -one-half his height he would make a plateau 75 miles in circumference -and 25 miles across; but it is time to go. The manager says, “Git on,” -and bidding adieu to Shasta we “git.” - -One mile from Sisson Conductor Morgan points to a little mountain -spring that wouldn’t slake the thirst of a nanny goat, and says, -“There’s the head waters of the Sacramento River, which is 307 miles -from where it empties into the bay.” The road now is making some -wonderful curves and bends to get around insurmountable heights and -across unbridgeable chasms. We have just finished a run of about eight -miles, described almost a complete S, and are only one mile and a half -from where we started. At Edgewood helper engine No. 1902 is detached, -for it is now down grade to Hornbrook, a distance of 40 miles, with a -drop at places of 170 feet to the mile. - -At Hornbrook engine No. 1907 was attached to assist to Siskiyou, a -distance of 24 miles, with an ascent of 190 feet to the mile. As we -approach State Line we cross the old Portland stage trail, and at 3.03 -P. M. Eastern (12.03 Pacific) time we cross the State Line and enter -Oregon, having traveled 1136 miles through the State of California. We -pass Gregory Siding, where two freight wrecks had recently occurred. The -wrecking crew are still on the ground, having evidently just put engine -No. 1503 on the track, for it is standing there as we pass, covered with -mud. We here have in view Pilot Rock, a great bare bluff that stands out -and alone like a huge sentinel guarding the gateway of the valley, and -famous in the early history of this locality as the scene of stirring -Indian warfare. Manager and Mrs. Wyman are on the engine enjoying an -unobstructed view of this marvelous mountain ride. We have just had our -last look at California scenery, for rounding a bend as we pass Pilot -Rock, the last view of majestic Shasta bursts upon our vision, reposing -in sublime and solemn grandeur 50 - -[Illustration: HERCULES’ PILLARS, COLUMBIA RIVER OREGON.] - -miles away. Another curve, the picture fades, the curtain falls, and -exit California. - -Still climbing the rugged sides of Siskiyou, and drawing nearer and -closer to its summit, our train, as though despairing of ever reaching -the top, plunges suddenly into its rocky ribs. The depths of despair can -be no darker than the gloomy obscurity of this yawning hole in the -mountain wall; for 3700 feet through “Tunnel 13” our train pierces the -heart of Siskiyou before emerging into daylight on the opposite side. -Here the summit of the grade is reached at an elevation of 4130 feet. -Leaving engine No. 1907 behind we now commence the descent of the -northern slope of the Siskiyou Mountain, amidst scenery of beauty and -grandeur. Arriving at Ashland 5.10 P. M. Eastern (2.10 P. M. Pacific) -time, a stop of twenty minutes is given and a change of engines is made. - -Bidding goodbye to Conductor Morgan and his crew, who deserve our -highest praise for the able manner in which our train was handled, and -who did much toward making the trip interesting by the useful -information imparted, we speed on our way again with engine 1361 in -charge of C. C. Case and fired by Robert McCuan; Conductor Edward -Houston, Baggagemaster R. W. Jameson, Brakeman H. Ballard, who take us -to Portland, 341 miles. Leaving Ashland, we pass a number of gold mines -in operation on the rugged hillside, and swing around into Rogue River -Valley, a rich farming and fruit-growing district, producing, it is -said, some of the finest fruits grown in Oregon. A stop of a few minutes -is made at Grant’s Pass, attaching engine No. 1759 to assist up the hill -to West Fork, 47 miles. Twenty minutes is allowed at Glendale to enable -the passengers of the “Portland Flyer” and the crew to partake of lunch -at “The Hotel Glendale.” Soon after leaving Glendale we enter a wild -ravine, inclosed by towering hills covered to their summits with great -pine timber. “Mr. Jameson,” I ask of the baggagemaster, an agreeable old -gentleman, “has this wild spot a name?” “This is Cow Creek Cañon; the -stream of water you see is Cow Creek, which runs the entire length of -the cañon, 35 miles,” is the answer. - -The farther we penetrate this narrow gorge the more are we impressed -with the solitude of its mighty pine-clad sides, that commence at the -creek on one hand and at the railroad on the other and rise upward in a -steep slope for over 2000 feet, covered to the very crests with giant -Oregon pines. We arrive at the little station of West Fork, the only -station in the cañon, and engine No. 1759 is detached and sidetracked. -There is gold hidden in these mighty hills, and here and there we see a -mine, the principal one, the Victoria, being located near West Fork. Two -miles north of this point we are shown where occurred in 1890 the -largest landslide ever known in the history of railroads. An immense -section of the mountain side becoming loosened, slid down into the -bottom of the cañon, burying 900 feet of the railroad to the depth of -100 feet, and damming the creek, formed a lake 60 feet deep and one mile -long. The buried track was abandoned and the road built across the creek -along the foot of the opposite sloping wall of the cañon. We can plainly -see the great mass of earth and rocks and trees that cover the buried -track, and which forms a striking instance of what might occur at any -time to roads that run through such mountain cañons. It is growing dark -as we emerge from the fastness and solitude of this Oregon wilderness, -but can easily discern that it is a change for the better, for we enter -a valley teeming with fields of waving grain and orchards of thrifty -trees. We stop at Roseburg for ten minutes, where another change of -engines is made, and when we start on our way again at 12.10 A. M. -Eastern (9.10 P. M. Pacific) time, it is quite dark. - -Leaving Roseburg, we have engine No. 1355, with Engineer Montgomery at -the throttle. Having a grade for 15 miles between Drains and Cottage -Grove, we get Engineer Connelly, with engine No. 1516, as helper. -Conductor Houston and his crew continue with us to Portland. - - -TUESDAY, MAY 25th. - -Arrived at Portland this morning at 8.00 Eastern (5.00 Pacific) time, -and after breakfast we met Morton Young, Esq., of Portland. Mr. Young is -a member of Mt. Hood Division No. 91, O. R. C., and an earnest and -enthusiastic member of the order, though not in railway service at the -present time, having been fortunate in real estate speculation and able -now to retire from active business cares. Brother Young kindly escorts a -number of our party over the East Side Electric Railway to Oregon City, -which is a pleasant ride of 14 miles. We climb the great wooden stairway -leading up to the bluffs that overlook the city and obtain a magnificent -view of all the surrounding country. Looking down upon the falls of the -Willamette River, we are impressed with the grandeur of this Niagara of -the Pacific. Descending from this alluring point of observation, we -visit the great electric plant located at the falls, deriving its power -from the waters of the Willamette and supplying Oregon City, Portland, -and all the outlying districts with light and power. From the windows of -the power house we obtain a much nearer view of the falls. The -Willamette River at this point is about half a mile in width and the -falls, in the form of a semi-circle, extend from shore to shore with an -average height of 40 feet. It is estimated that the horse-power capacity -of this great volume of leaping, dashing, roaring water is second in the -world to that of Niagara. The great power house, with walls of solid -concrete, is located on the west side of the river, just below the -falls, and has a capacity of 12,000 horse power. It is owned and -operated by the Portland General Electric Company, a corporation -organized in 1892 with a capital of $4,250,000. - -We cannot remain long in one place and are unable to give this -interesting city the attention we would like, but we can see as we -traverse one of its principal thoroughfares that it is up to date in its -accommodations and improvements. We pass the Electric Hotel, and from -its appearance we are sure it is first class in every respect, and had -we the opportunity or occasion to partake of its hospitality we are -confident we would be well taken care of by the proprietors who manage -the establishment, Mr. and Mrs. W. M. Robinson. We visit the fish market -and are interested in the salmon just brought in, that range in weight -from five to fifty pounds, the streams through this part of the country -abounding with this species of fish. The ladies, intent on - -[Illustration: THE COLUMBIA RIVER.] - -procuring souvenirs, visit a number of the stores as we go along. On the -river banks are located numerous mills and factories. Arriving at the -point where we take the electric line for Portland and finding a car -waiting, we get aboard and start again on the delightful 14-mile trolley -ride. Among the passengers in the car is a lady whose pleasant -countenance invites confidence, and Mrs. Shaw has entered into -conversation with her. I am busy looking off across the country, -enjoying the beauty of the landscape, and have given their talk no -attention. Brother Young has just pointed out Clackamas Heights and is -now trying to show us the snow crown of Mt. Hood, but his Honor is so -mixed up with the vapory clouds that hang around the horizon that he -cannot be located. A nudge from Mrs. S. invites my attention, and as I -turn she introduces her new-found friend, Mrs. Robinson, of the Electric -Hotel, Oregon City. Mrs. Robinson is a bright conversationalist and -entertained us with some facts about the city and its surroundings. - -“Do you like Oregon City?” some one asks. “I not only like it,” answers -Mrs. Robinson, “but I am proud of it. It is a town with a history. The -site of Oregon City was first located in the year 1829 by Dr. John -McLoughlin, an agent of the Hudson Bay Company, who established a -trading post here. It was here a few years later that the Methodists -built the first Protestant church erected on the Pacific slope. The -Oregon _Spectator_, the first newspaper published on the Pacific coast, -was printed here in 1846 on a press brought from the Sandwich Islands. -We have a climate,” she continued, “that never goes to extremes; we -seldom have freezing weather, and snow, if it comes, only lasts a few -hours. I have gathered roses in my yard on Christmas, for very rarely -the cold is severe enough to destroy our flowers. We have not grown so -rapidly as some of the younger cities of the Northwest, but we have all -the natural advantages and facilities to insure and encourage progress -and development. We have excellent graded schools that are well -attended, and as an evidence of the educational importance of our city, -the Willamette Valley Chautauqua Association holds its annual convention -or assembly at Gladstone Park, not far from Oregon City. These meetings -are largely attended, thousands coming from all parts of the Pacific -coast. The people will commence to gather for these meetings next week, -and I expect we will have our hands full; but here’s where I get off,” -and rising as the car stops she bids us goodday and steps off. - -We have reached Portland, and after proceeding a few blocks under the -guidance of Brother Young, we leave the electric road and board a cable -car for Portland Heights, a high eminence overlooking the city and -commanding a magnificent view of all the surrounding country for many -miles. We gaze down upon three rivers, the Columbia, Willamette, and -Clackamas, and follow with our eyes their sinuous windings as their -waters gleam and glimmer in the sun. We can plainly see the hoary crests -of Mt. Adams and Saint Helens, but clouds still hovering on the eastern -horizon keep Mt. Hood hidden from our sight. With the perversity of -human nature, that is always hankering for what is beyond its reach, we -want a look at Mt. Hood. “We came up here to see it,” says Mrs. -Dougherty, “and if - -[Illustration: J. P. O’BRIEN, SUPERINTENDENT RAIL LINES, OREGON RAILROAD -AND NAVIGATION COMPANY.] - -it’s only a wee glimpse I want it.” So do we all, and we keep our gaze -riveted on the spot where Brother Young says it will appear, if it shows -at all. - -“Mt. Hood is 70 miles away,” says Brother Young, “but on a perfectly -clear day a person from here can see it very plainly.” The clouds -showing no inclination to favor us, we descend from the Heights, get -aboard a car, and start for the station, where we arrive about 1.30 P. -M., and find the most of our people gathered there; they also have spent -a very pleasant morning taking in the sights of Portland and gathering -souvenirs. - -Brothers Maxwell and Reagan, of the excursion executive committee, have -not been idle, but calling upon Superintendent J. P. O’Brien, of the -Oregon River and Navigation Company Rail Lines, have arranged for an -excursion this afternoon up the banks of the Columbia River to Cascade -Locks and return. - -Getting lunch at a near-by restaurant, we are soon all ready for the -start. Our three sleepers are attached to a regular train that leaves at -2.45 P. M. “Are all our people here?” asks Manager Wyman, surveying the -crowd. “There are four or five that are absent, I believe,” answers -Secretary Maxwell, as he nips the northeast corner off a plug of -tobacco. “Sloane and Haas are not here, I know,” speaks out Brother -Terry, “for they went out with a boy in a boat to watch the salmon shoot -the falls of the Willamette and haven’t got back yet.” “Time’s up; can’t -wait; all aboard,” shouts the conductor, and away we go, bound for a -trip of 45 miles through the marvelous and unsurpassed scenery of the -Columbia River. Superintendent O’Brien is with us, his private car being -attached to the train. Chief Dispatcher E. N. Campbell, C. R. Holcomb, -Esq., and Brother M. Young also accompany the party. L. J. Hicks, -photographer, of Portland, is along in his professional capacity; we are -also accompanied by the Portland Hotel orchestra, comprised of the -following gentlemen: G. H. Parsons, J. Seltenraick, F. Boyd, William -Livinston, Prof. E. F. Fleck, who render admirable and pleasing music. -Many are the expressions of delight as we catch fleeting glimpses of the -wonderful scenery. “You will have a better view on the return trip,” -advises Mr. O’Brien, “for we will then run slow and make an occasional -stop.” Arriving at Cascade Locks, we are given twenty minutes to visit -the great locks which the Government is about completing, at a cost of -nearly $1,500,000, to enable vessels to reach the highest navigable -point of this most remarkable river. - -Time is up to start on our return trip, and reaching the train we find -O. R. & N. engine No. 73 coupled to the train, with Engineer A. Curtis -and Fireman Jo. Wilson in the cab and Conductor J. A. Allison standing -near ready to move off as soon as we are ready to go. In a minute we are -all on, and the train goes slowly down the great Columbia, whose -current, always rapid, is augmented and increased twofold by the melting -snows in the mountains, and surges past in an angry, turbid torrent. -From the rushing waters of the mighty river on one side we look up on -the other side to the towering cliffs and crags and peaks that rise in -majesty and grandeur 3000 feet in the air, their summits fringed with -pines that look like ferns as they wave against the sky, while here and -there, from out those walls of rock, mountain streams gush forth, and -falling hundreds of - -[Illustration: MT. ADAMS, WASHINGTON.] - -[Illustration: MT. ST. HELENS, FROM PORTLAND.] - -feet, their waters descend in showers of rainbow-tinted spray. - -“Well,” remarks Mr. O’Brien, as he sees we are almost speechless with -rapture and delight, “that’s something you don’t see in Pennsylvania or -Jersey every day in the year.” “No,” I respond, “nor anywhere else in -the world on any day of the year.” “I really believe there is no scenery -in the whole wide world more intensely absorbing than your Columbia -River scenery, Mr. O’Brien,” says Mrs. Mattson, and the Doctor, standing -near, smiles down upon her his approval. “We will now turn our attention -to something more practical than towering mountains and leaping -waterfalls,” says Mr. O’Brien, as the train comes to a stop. “We will -show you how our salmon are coaxed out of the water.” - -Leading the way, we follow him down the river bank to its edge and on to -a platform or wharf extending for several feet into the water, where a -large wheel is slowly revolving that looks something like the side wheel -of an old-fashioned ferryboat or the large overshot water wheel of an -old-time sawmill, except that it turns backward, and as the scoops or -buckets rise out of the water they bring the fish along, should any of -them be so unfortunate as to get caught. When the scoop rises to a -certain height the fish slip out into an incline trough or chute -(something like the “boys” had fun with at Sutro’s) and are dumped into -a bin under the platform. “We are not catching many at the present -time,” says the man who is operating the trap, “the river is too high -and muddy and the fish are not running very lively.” Opening a trap -door, he allows us to peer down into the bin, where we see a lot of fish -of various sizes. He kindly gave us several for our dining car, an act -we all highly appreciate. - -We next stop at Multnomah Falls, where one of those mountain streams -pouring over the face of a cliff has a sheer descent of 950 feet. Here -the party is arranged in a group on a grassy slope, with the falls as -background, and photographed by Mr. Hicks. “Mr. Hicks, will all those -beautiful rainbows we see there show in the pictures you have taken?” -asks Mrs. Matthews of the photographer. “No,” replies Mr. Hicks, “that -is beyond our art. No camera will picture nor can artist paint the -gorgeous coloring and beautifully blended tints that you see in the -dashing spray of Multnomah Falls.” “I don’t know about that,” answers -Brother Mart. Houston, who is always of a practical turn of mind. “I -believe George Cope, of Chester County, could do it, for a man who can -paint the pretty spots of a trout or all the colors of autumnal foliage -and never miss a tint can come pretty close to Multnomah Falls.” “He -ought to come out here and paint it, then,” responds Brother Bob Foulon; -“for a reproduction of Multnomah Falls on canvas as we see it to-day -could not be surpassed by any painting in the world.” We all echo -Brother Foulon’s sentiments, and feel as we get aboard the train that it -has been our privilege to look upon a scene of unequaled loveliness and -grandeur. - -We again stop and are photographed at the Pillar, an enormous column of -rock standing alone between the river and the railroad, upon the summit -of which is growing a great pine tree, 1000 feet in the air. We get back -to the depot about 7.30 and find McDonald has a sumptuous dinner -awaiting us, which we all - -[Illustration: MULTNOMAH FALLS, OREGON.] - -heartily enjoy. Mr. O’Brien and Brother Young take dinner with us, and -our people show their appreciation of the courtesy and kindness of these -gentlemen by giving them three rousing cheers. After supper Manager E. -Lyons, of the Union Depot, escorts a number of the “boys” to the -luxurious quarters of the Commercial Club, where we are royally -entertained for three hours, returning to the train about midnight. - - -WEDNESDAY, MAY 26th. - -Everybody is astir in good time this morning, for we are soon to bid -adieu to this great city of the far Northwest, where we have been so -kindly treated and royally entertained. The warmhearted brothers of Mt. -Hood Division No. 91, O. R. C., along with the officers of the different -transportation companies, will long be remembered for their generous -manner toward us. “Views of Portland, Oregon, and the Columbia River,” a -beautiful pamphlet souvenir issued by Mt. Hood Division, was presented -to each member of our party, and is highly prized. In connection with -the pamphlet is “a ticket of welcome” of coupon form, and is quite -lengthy, but all right, the first clause of which reads, “This contract -with coupons attached entitles the holder to a hearty welcome and a -first-class reception on entering the State of Oregon, and the -courtesies of the Southern Pacific Company, the Oregon Railroad and -Navigation Company, and the Northern Pacific Railway. - - R. KOEHLER, E. P. ROGERS, - General Manager S. P. A. G. P. A., S. P. - - E. MCNEILL, B. CAMPBELL, - Pres. & Mgr. O. R. & N. Traffic Mgr. O. R. & N. - - W. H. HULBURT, J. W. KENDRICK, - G. P. A., O. R. & N. Co. Genl. Mgr. N. P. Ry. - - J. H. HANNAFORD, C. S. FEE, - Genl. Traffic Mgr. N. P. Ry. G. P. A., N. P. Ry.” - -There are five clauses in the contract. The last clause reads, “The -Reception Committee will not be responsible for the loss of any diamonds -(kings and queens excepted), baggage, meals, or sleep on this run. - - J. M. POORMAN, J. W. CROCKER, - Sec. & Treas. C. C. - - “MT. HOOD DIVISION No. 91, O. R. C.” - -There are six coupons, each reading to and fro over a line between -different points of interest, and bearing at the bottom the name of the -superintendent over whose line it reads. The whole is a nicely gotten up -affair and a valued addition to our collection of souvenirs. - -We leave here at 8.45 A. M., and the hour of departure being at hand (as -is always the case), a number of our new-found friends are at hand to -see us off. All along our route we have been constantly reminding the -people who we are by a yell we give in concert, with a vim that would -drown the racket of a college football team; and now, gathered in a -bunch, we let go:-- - -“Who are we? O. R. C. - -“Pennsylvania employé. - -“Rah! rah! boom--ah!” The ladies of our party are ready and let go:-- - -“Who are we? Who are we? - -“The wives and the daughters of the O. R. C. - -“Rah! rah! boom--ah!” - -And now the cooks and waiters gathered at the windows and on the -platform of the “Lafayette” let go:-- - -“Who are we? P. P. C. - -[Illustration: ALONG THE COLUMBIA RIVER.] - -“The cooks and the waiters of the O. R. C. - -“Rah! rah! boom--ah!” - -With all this din ringing in their ears the good people of Portland see -our train pulling away from their beautiful station. As they wave their -adieus we pass from their sight on a run of 146 miles over the Northern -Pacific Railway to Tacoma, Wash. N. P. engine No. 617 is drawing us, -managed by Engineer F. W. Bockerman and fired by H. Deam. The conductor -is Henry Buckley and the brakemen are H. Harkins and Tom Martin; Mr. -Martin is a young man from Chester County, Pennsylvania, who has come -West to seek his fortune, and has accepted the position of a brakeman -with the expectation of rising in the ranks, and we wish him success. - -From Portland to Goble, 39 miles, we follow the Columbia River, which is -very high, and much of the low land is submerged. We can see buildings -surrounded by water that have been vacated, and we are reminded of the -El Paso flood. We look beyond this desolating waste of water and in the -far distance can see the glistening summits of Mt. Hood and Saint -Helens. Reaching Goble, our train is run on to the great ferry steamer -“Tacoma,” transported across the Columbia River to Kalama, and into the -State of Washington. Leaving Kalama, we pass through a fine farming -country, where agricultural industries seem to be extensively carried -on. After passing Centralia, which is a flourishing town of about 3000 -inhabitants, we have a splendid view of Mt. Rainier for several miles -while we sweep across the Yelm prairie. A short stop is made at Roy to -pick up Brothers B. W. Johnson and S. H. Ewalt, of Mt. Tacoma Division -No. 249, O. R. C., who are members of committee on entertainment, and -who promise to show us the city of Tacoma after our arrival there. The -country through here seems to be rich in natural resources, for -bordering the fertile valleys can be seen heavily timbered hills and -here and there a coal mine in operation. - -Arriving in Tacoma at 4.40 P. M. Eastern (1.40 P. M. Pacific), we are -immediately taken out by Brothers Johnson and Ewalt to see the town and -are joined by A. F. Haines, passenger agent of Northern Pacific Railway, -Capt. A. Thompson, of the Portland _Oregonian_, C. P. Ferry, Esq. (who -bears the distinguished title of “Duke of Tacoma”), and a member of the -Chamber of Commerce, L. Ceasar, Esq., president of Tacoma Bank and a -member of the Board of Trade. The first place we visit is the County -Court House. “This,” says Mr. Ferry, “is one of the finest buildings in -Tacoma, which, you know, is the county seat of Pierce County. We had to -have a court house and thought we would build a good one; it cost -$400,000.” We amused ourselves looking through the museum located in -this building, many of the relics and works of art having been -contributed by Mr. Ferry, who collected many of them in foreign -countries through which he has traveled. We spent half an hour in the -Court House and then entered into a street car, which took us a -much-enjoyed ride through the city to Point Defiance Park. - -To form a true conception of a Washington forest one has but to visit -this wonderful park. Such majestic trees we never saw before, many of -them six and eight feet in diameter and estimated to be 300 feet in -height, great - -[Illustration: C STREET, TACOMA, WASHINGTON.] - -[Illustration: BRIDGE, POINT DEFIANCE PARK, TACOMA, WASHINGTON.] - -pines and cedars, natural growth of the soil, and amongst them, growing -in wild profusion, great ferns six feet in height. In inclosures can be -seen deer, elk, and bear, natives of the wilds. Through this great -forest park bridle paths lead in all directions, and about 80 miles of -bicycle track is built. The park is situated on a high eminence -overlooking Puget Sound. By a series of steep paths and stairs we -descend to the beach. The sound is a great body of water with hardly a -ripple on its surface. A half hour is spent here gathering pebbles and -shells, and then we head for the smelter, half a mile up the beach. - -A boathouse furnishes rowboats for those who want them, and a number -avail themselves of this opportunity to avoid a tiresome walk. Those who -walk ascend again the steps and steep pathway, and going along the -forest walk they arrive at the smelter the same time as those who rowed. -We are taken through the great hot, smoky building and shown the -treatment ore receives in all its stages from the smelter to the -crucible. This immense plant, owned and operated by the Tacoma Smelting -and Refining Company, handles gold, silver, and copper ore, and has an -annual output of over $900,000. A train of cars await us when we emerge -from the works, flat cars, fitted up with seats for the occasion; upon -these we climb, and find as we are slowly taken along the sound front -that no conveyance could afford a better view. Tacoma has 12 miles of a -water front, upon which splendid wharves, great warehouses, monster -elevators, immense saw and flour mills are built, the whole 12 miles -being lined with industries of this character. - -This trip over, we return to our train and find dinner awaiting us, -after which our train is run to the steamboat landing and we are taken -aboard the “City of Kingston,” belonging to the Northern Pacific -Railway, for a trip of 28 miles to Seattle. We can hardly realize as the -boat leaves the wharf that our visit to Tacoma is over, so rapidly were -we hustled along; but we are highly pleased with the treatment we -received and feel that Tacoma is a wonderful place and her people will -make her still more wonderful by their thrift, their push, and activity. -They have our best wishes for their future progress and advancement. - -The “City of Kingston” is a splendid boat and rides like a feather over -the waters of the sound, and from the expressions of delight on every -hand it is evident our people are enjoying the trip. The boat is in -charge of Engineer G. H. Lent and a gentlemanly purser, who have won the -goodwill of our party by kindly allowing us the freedom of the boat and -showing us through many of the elegantly-furnished state rooms with -which the boat is equipped. Arriving at Seattle, we are loaded in a -large cable car and taken through the city for about four miles and back -again. It is so dark we cannot see the town and can only enjoy the ride. -We are taken to the station, where we wait for half an hour for our -train to arrive, which has been sent from Tacoma to overtake us. We are -all pretty thoroughly tired out, and are glad when at about eleven -o’clock our train arrives, and we are soon making ourselves comfortable -inside. M. M. Davis, Esq., a press representative of Seattle, and -Conductor Thomas Doyle in search of an “item” gave us a short call just -after our train came over from Tacoma. Brother Reagan and “Alfalfa” are -the only ones I see as - -[Illustration: LATOURELLE FALLS, OREGON.] - -I leave the “refreshment corner” in the “combined” to seek repose in the -“Marco.” Our train is still standing at Seattle and the hour is close to -midnight. - - -THURSDAY, MAY 27th. - -Getting up this morning about 7.30, I find we are crossing another -desert--at least it has that appearance. We have left Ellensburg and are -running through a dry, sandy country along the Yakima River. Here and -there we pass a ranch where plots of land under irrigation are being -cultivated, and from the fertile appearance of these irrigated tracts it -would seem that this country needs but plenty of water to make it a -blooming paradise. This much I discover by looking out the window while -waiting my turn to wash and comb, for Brothers Terry, Brown, and Horner -are ahead of me this morning. We work on the principle “first come first -served,” and all good naturedly wait when there is nothing else to do. -Completing my toilet, I go to the smoker and find the genial conductor -who is running the train, and learn that he is a member of Mt. Hood -Division No. 91; name, W. B. Hale. - -“I took charge of your train at Ellensburg,” he says, on being asked the -question, “and am going with you as far as I can. We have engine No. -333, run by Engineer Brant, who will take us to Pasco, 122 miles.” “This -is a barren-looking country for stock raising,” I remark, as I see a -large drove of cattle kicking up the dust in the desert as we pass them; -“what do they live on?” “Those cattle are from away back toward the -hills, where there is plenty of ‘bunch grass’ that they feed on, and are -coming to the irrigation canal for water, or perhaps they are being -driven to the railroad station for shipment. You would be surprised at -the amount of stock shipped from North Yakima, Prosser, and Kennewick,” -is the reply. “There seems to be no trouble about growing plenty of -stuff where there is water,” I venture to assert, seeing a -verdant-looking plantation, like an oasis in the desert, a short -distance away. “Lack or scarcity of water is the only hindrance to -agricultural industry,” is the answer, “and this drawback is being -rapidly overcome by the construction of large irrigating canals by -companies formed for that purpose.” - -“Breakfast is now ready in the dining car,” chimes the welcome voice of -Conductor McDonald at the open door. Several of our people had entered -the smoker during the last half hour, and all arise as one person at the -music of that well-known voice, that always brings “tidings of great -joy.” “I think Mr. McDonald has the loveliest voice, for a man,” is the -flattering remark of Mrs. Matthews as we make a break for the diner. Not -one of us but what thinks so too, but of course we know Mrs. Matthews is -thinking of the song McDonald sang to us a few evenings before. - -“There’s a tramp hidden between the ice chests under this car beating -his way, I heard some one say awhile ago,” says Manager Wyman at the -breakfast table. As we finish eating the train stops at the little -station of Kiona and we all get out to see the stowaway. Sure enough -he’s there. In a narrow space between the ice chests, about 16 inches -wide, he has placed a board on the dining-car ladder which is kept -there, and crawled in on it, a place so narrow that he cannot change his -position - -[Illustration: THE HOBO PASSENGER.] - -[Illustration: CROSSING COLUMBIA RIVER ON THE “TACOMA.”] - -or turn. We can see him all covered with dust, but he does not move, and -we are not sure that he is alive, for this Yakima dust is something -terrible and he has certainly got a dose of it. One of the dining-car -boys brought him out some bread and meat, a can of water, and a sponge -to protect his mouth and nostrils from the dust. We can see that he is -alive when these things are pushed into him, for he reaches out a hand -as far as he can to receive them. After passing Kennewick we cross the -Columbia River and are soon at Pasco, where a stop is made to change -engines. While this is being done we persuade our “mascot” to come from -beneath the car. As he crawls from his hiding place and straightens up -Brother Ristein, who has his kodak ready, takes a snap. We can see -through the ginger-colored Yakima dust on his face that he is a negro. -“What’s your name?” I ask. “John Bell, sah.” “Where do you live?” asks -Brother Matthews. “Al’bama, sah.” “Where did you get on this car?” asks -Manager Wyman. “Tacoma, sah.” “How did you get to Tacoma?” asks Brother -Dougherty. “Cargo hosses, sah.” “Where do you want to go, now?” asks -Conductor Hale. “Montana, sah.” “Well, crawl in your hole; we’re going -to start,” replies Captain Hale, and turning to Manager Wyman continues, -“We may as well allow him to keep his place, for soon as you rout him -out there will be another one ready to crawl in. It’s impossible to get -through this part of the country without being troubled with hoboes.” - -We leave Pasco at 12.55 Eastern (9.45 Pacific) time with engine No. 405, -Engineer Tom Allen and Fireman W. W. Thompson, who run us to Spokane, -146 miles. Much of the country through which we are now passing is very -dry and barren-looking, but we are informed by Captain Hale that it is -considered a rich grazing district. From Lind to Sprague, a distance of -45 miles, many large herds of horses and cattle are seen. Just before -reaching Sprague we run for two miles on the border of Spring Lake, a -fine body of water that looks very refreshing after so many miles of dry -and dusty territory. We stop at Sprague a few minutes for water and -notice the place has had a very serious fire not long since. - -“Captain,” I ask, addressing Brother Hale, who is near by, “what has -happened to Sprague?” “The town was nearly wiped out about a year ago by -a very bad fire,” is the reply, “and it is a great pity, for Sprague was -a pretty little place and a thriving town. It is the county seat of -Lincoln County, and had a population of about 2000. It is the -headquarters of the Idaho Division of the Northern Pacific Railway, and -the company’s machine shops and roundhouse were completely destroyed and -all those engines ruined,” and he points to where can be seen about a -dozen locomotives, burned and warped, standing on the tracks that had -been the interior of the roundhouse and shops. - -Another run of 25 miles through good farming and grazing territory, -interspersed with considerable timber land, brings us to Cheney, where -we again make a short stop. Since crossing the Columbia our course has -been upward, and from an elevation at Kennewick of 350 feet we have now -reached 2300 feet. Cheney is a growing business place of 1200 -inhabitants. It is nicely located on the great plateau of the Columbia -and surrounded for many miles with rich farm land and abundant timber. - -[Illustration: ELEVATOR A, TACOMA, WASHINGTON.] - -[Illustration: SHORE OF LAKE PEND D’OREILLE AT HOPE, IDAHO.] - -Here we meet Mr. H. W. McMaster, chief dispatcher of Northern Pacific -Railway at Spokane, whom we find to be a very courteous and agreeable -gentleman. On a sidetrack near where our train stands, Mr. McMaster -shows us the largest locomotive on the Northern Pacific Railway, No. -150. Engine and tender without fuel or water weigh 106 tons; it has a -34-inch cylinder; was built in Schenectady, N. Y., since the first of -the year. They have had it but a short time but find it very -satisfactory. It is in charge of Engineer J. Bruce and is run in the -freight service between Spokane and Pasco. Mr. McMaster accompanies us -to Spokane, where we arrive at 5.20 P. M. Eastern (2.20 P. M. Pacific), -and are met at the station by Dr. E. D. Olmsted, Mayor of Spokane. We -are introduced to the Mayor by Mr. McMaster in a neat little speech. His -Honor responds in a pleasant manner, bidding us welcome and giving us -the freedom of the city. The street railway management offers us the use -and freedom of their lines so long as we wish to remain in the city. We -have but two hours here, and the municipal authorities and street -railway managers vie with one another in their efforts to show us as -much of the city as possible in the short time we will be with them. A -number of carriages are sent around and quickly loaded up, accommodating -about one-half of the party, the remainder board street cars, and we -start on a tour of the city. - -Spokane is the county seat of Spokane County, with a population of about -32,000. It occupies a remarkably picturesque location on both sides of -the Spokane River, a mighty mountain torrent, the rush and roar of whose -eternal, resistless energy holds the visitors to-day spellbound and -speechless with admiration, amazement, and awe. We had looked upon, we -supposed, during the past two weeks, all varieties and degrees of -running, rushing, and falling waters, but at no time have we gazed upon -such a tumbling, seething, foaming, roaring torrent as this that now -fascinates us with its sublime grandeur and astounds us with its -terrific force. - -Right through the centre of the city, with a fall of 150 feet in the -space of half a mile, this mighty torrent tears, dashing and splashing, -surging and foaming against and amongst the great rocks and boulders -that beset its course with a fury that is indescribable, and we feel as -we gaze upon this wonderful, awe-inspiring spectacle that there is no -more limit to the power of the elements than there is to the measure of -eternity. This magnificent river that never freezes runs the great -electric plant that lights the city and operates 45 miles of electric -railway. It furnishes power for numerous flour and saw mills, factories -and foundries that can be seen in operation along its banks, giving an -aspect of business activity to the place that is a pleasing -manifestation of prosperity and enterprise. - -Its fine, substantial, costly church, school, municipal, and other -public buildings and superb private residences are indications that -there is wealth in Spokane. Because of the advantages and facilities of -its admirable location, surrounded by vast forests of valuable timber, -fertile agricultural valleys, rich mining districts, and the traffic of -seven railroads, we predict for Spokane a phenomenal future. It is -destined, we are sure, at an early day to be the first city of the great -Northwest. Not one of the party will ever forget our short visit to - -[Illustration: SPOKANE FALLS, SPOKANE.] - -[Illustration: SPOKANE, WASHINGTON.] - -Spokane. Mr. McMaster took Brothers Maxwell and Reagan around with his -own team and Captain Hale took Manager Wyman. The street-car party was -under the escort of James Mendenhall, Esq., an old schoolmate of Brother -James Matthews. Mr. Mendenhall came West several years ago, located at -Spokane, and engaged in real estate business. He is now one of the -prominent citizens of the place and closely identified with the business -interests and enterprises of the city. We also met Mark Mendenhall, -Esq., a brother of James, who is a leading attorney in Spokane. No, we -will not forget the courtesy and kindness of the good people of Spokane, -and the good people of Spokane will not forget us, for they have only to -remember that on the afternoon of May 27th, 1897, street-railway traffic -was blocked for thirty minutes by a car abandoned by the Pennsylvania -Railroad conductors and kept waiting for them while they viewed the -grandeur of Spokane Falls for half an hour from the rear balcony of the -brewery. - -At 7.40 P. M. Eastern (4.40 P. M. Pacific) time we are all aboard our -train once more, and with Engineer Secord at the throttle of engine No. -119 we quickly leave beautiful Spokane far in our rear. Captain Hale is -still with us, his brakeman being A. S. Harding. A hobo is discovered -lying on the truss rods of the combined car; he can be seen by looking -around the side of the car; his position seems a perilous one, but our -train makes no stop till it gets to Hope, 84 miles, so he is allowed to -remain and take his chances. For several miles we pass through -magnificent cattle ranges and fine farming lands. As we approach Hope -the road skirts the shores of Lake Pend d’Oreille for about three -miles, giving us a fine view of this beautiful body of water. We arrive -at Hope 10.00 Eastern (7.00 Pacific) time and stop twenty-five minutes -to change engines. Here a change is also made in time; it changes from -Pacific to Mountain time, one hour later than Pacific and two hours -earlier than Eastern time. Hobo No. 2 changed his position from the -truss rods of the combined car to a pile of ties when the train stopped -at Hope. He was given a lunch by one of the dining-car boys and advised -not to anchor himself in the same place again, as the position was not -only a dangerous one, but very conspicuous. When asked his name he said -it was J. W. Kelsey, that he was trying to get home, had been away for -two years, and wanted to see his mother. Hobo No. 1 lays low, for he -knows should he for a moment vacate his narrow quarters under the -“Lafayette” there would be a scramble for his place. It is growing dusk, -and through the gloom of the dying day we have counted no less than -fifteen skulking forms about the train, watching for an opportunity to -secrete themselves underneath or about the train for the purpose of -obtaining free transportation. - -Bidding adieu to big-hearted, genial Captain Hale, who has been with us -for 357 miles, we leave Hope at 10.25 P. M. Eastern (8.25 P. M. -Mountain) time with N. P. engine No. 438, with Engineer Jim Bailey at -the throttle, whose fireman is John Ryan. Conductor William Gilbert has -charge of the train and his brakemen are T. S. McEachran and F. R. -Foote. This crew runs us to Helena, 297 miles. Ten miles from Hope we -cross Clark’s Fork, a branch of the Columbia River, - -[Illustration: W. B. HALE, CONDUCTOR NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY.] - -and through the gathering darkness we can see that we have entered a -wild and rocky region, the road winding around and among mountain ranges -and snow-capped peaks, following the course of the stream we just -crossed for 60 miles. - -Captain Gilbert and his brakemen are lively, interesting company, and -entertain us during the evening with anecdotes and stories of Western -life. “Are you troubled much with tramps, captain?” some one asks, as -Conductor Gilbert, during the conversation, made some allusion to the -profession. “They do not give us much real trouble,” is the reply, “yet -they are a matter of concern, for we are never without them, and need to -be constantly on guard; there is always a Wandering Willie around -somewhere, and you never know what mischief he may be up to. There are -at least a dozen on this train to-night. The trucks are full and several -on top of the cars.” This is rather startling information, and I notice -Brother Sheppard clap his hand on his right hip pocket to make sure the -“critter” is there, and Alfalfa quietly unlocks the cupboard door, where -“our artillery” is kept. I see no sign of fear on the serene countenance -of Captain Gilbert and believe we’re not in danger; yet Brothers Maxwell -and Terry start through the train to make sure the vestibule doors are -barred and step traps fastened down. At Trout Creek, a small station 48 -miles from Hope, we stopped for water, and F. Hartman, roadmaster of the -Missoula and Hope Division, got aboard and went with us to Horse Plains. -It is now near midnight, and making my way from the smoker to the -“Marco” I turn in, wondering how the poor fellows who are hanging on to -the brake beams are enjoying themselves, for Bailey with the “438” is -switching them around the curves at a pretty lively rate. - - -FRIDAY, MAY 28th. - -Our arrival in Helena at six o’clock this morning and the announcement -of an early breakfast soon has everybody astir. After breakfast we bid -adieu to jolly, whole-souled Captain Gilbert and his genial crew, and -under the escort of Assistant General Passenger Agent W. Stuart, -Assistant General Ticket Agent C. E. Dutton, and Conductor Dodds, of the -Northern Pacific Railway, and Messrs. E. Flaherty and H. D. Palmer, of -Helena Board of Trade, start out to see the town. Our time is limited, -for we are scheduled to leave at twelve o’clock, and it is impossible to -give all the interesting features of this remarkable city the attention -they deserve. Helena is a wealthy town; it is located in the centre of -one of the richest mining districts in the world; it is the capital of -Montana and the county seat of Lewis and Clarke County, with a -population of about 14,000; it is up to date in its financial, -educational, and religious institutions, and both private residences and -public buildings are models of architectural symmetry, strength, and -beauty. A military post named Fort Harrison has recently been -established here which will be one of the principal points for the -quartering of troops in the Northwest. A ride of almost three miles on -the electric line through this interesting city brings us to the Hotel -Broadwater and “Natatorium,” where the celebrated hot springs are -located. We are given the freedom of the bathing pool, which is one of -the largest and finest under cover in the world. The most of our party -take advantage of the treat, and for an hour the waters of the pool are -almost churned into foam by the sportive antics of the crowd, whose -capers afford great entertainment and amusement for those who do not -care to “get into the swim” with the rest. This place is much resorted -to by tourists, and invalids are said to be much benefited by bathing in -the waters of these hot springs, which are strongly impregnated with -sulphur, salt, and iron and heated by Nature’s process to a very -pleasant temperature. - -Leaving the Natatorium we are invited to the immense brewery -establishment of Nicholas Kessler, near by, to await the coming of our -train, which is to be brought here for us, as the railroad runs within a -short distance of the place. Mr. Kessler is a former Pennsylvanian, one -of those hospitable, generous, big-hearted Pennsylvania Dutchmen, and -when he learned we hailed from his native State his pleasure was greater -than he was able to express and his generosity almost boundless. In the -fine pavilion adjoining his establishment he spread us a sumptuous lunch -and seemed aggrieved that we didn’t eat and drink all that was placed -before us, which was enough for 500 people. When at last our train comes -and we bid the old gentleman farewell there are tears in his eyes as he -tells us how happy he is that we called to see him, and that he would -never forget the Pennsylvania Railroad conductors. He accompanies us -over to the train (so do several of his men with boxes on their -shoulders), and as we steam away and leave behind us the city of Helena -and our generous-hearted new-made friends, we notice in the “refreshment -corner” of our combined car a pile of boxes bearing the trade mark of -“Nic” Kessler, and another box containing fine oranges that bears the -mark of H. S. Hepner, a merchant of Helena. - -The space between the ice chests beneath the dining car is vacant; our -mascot has fled, having ridden in that uncomfortable position for 782 -miles. - -It is 12.55 P. M. Helena time when we leave here for Butte over the -Montana Central branch of the Great Northern Railway. We have G. N. -engine No. 458, Engineer Pete Leary, Fireman R. Hanna, Conductor M. -Sweeney, Brakemen F. W. Minshall and F. J. Chapman, who take us to -Butte, a distance of 75 miles. As a guest we have with us Trainmaster J. -W. Donovan, of the Montana Central, who will accompany us to Butte. We -find Mr. Donovan an agreeable and entertaining gentleman who tells us -much that is interesting of the country through which we are passing. -“This branch was built,” says Mr. Donovan, “for almost the sole purpose -of developing the mining interests of the country. You will see very -little of any other industry from here to Butte than mining.” - -After leaving Clancy we ascend a steep grade, from which we look down -into a pretty valley that Mr. Donovan tells us is called Prickly Pear -Cañon. Passing Amazon we follow Boulder River for 12 miles as it courses -through the beautiful valley of the same name. Four miles from Amazon we -pass through Boulder and can see that it is a thriving town. “Boulder is -the county seat of Jefferson County,” says Mr. Donovan, “and has a -population of about 1200. It ranks as one of the important cities of -Montana, being in the centre of a rich mining region.” - -This is a wonderful mining district through which we are passing, all -the hills and mountain sides being literally honeycombed with the gaping -mouths of mines. Eight miles from Boulder we come to the town of Basin, -“the largest city,” says Mr. Donovan, “in Jefferson County, having a -population of about 200 more than Boulder.” The railroad runs close to -the ruins of what had apparently been a large building recently -destroyed by fire, and we inquire of Mr. Donovan what it had been. “Two -years ago,” he replies, “the Basin and Bay State Smelting Company -erected an immense plant that was destroyed by fire as soon as it was in -operation. To build and equip the plant cost over $100,000, and its -destruction was not only a heavy loss but a serious blow to the mining -industries of Basin and all the adjacent country; but I hear it is to be -rebuilt if the output and value of the ore in this section will warrant -it.” - -Our progress has become very slow and engine No. 458 is laboring very -hard. “We are now ascending a grade,” says Mr. Donovan, “of 116 feet to -the mile and have eight miles to go before we reach the summit.” It is a -tedious climb, but we do not weary of viewing the wondrous mountain -scenery. As we slowly approach the top of the grade we obtain an -excellent view of Bison River Cañon, an exceedingly wild, rugged, and -picturesque region. At last we reach the summit at an altitude of 6350 -feet above sea level; this is the dividing line between the Atlantic and -Pacific slopes. From this point the waters flow westward to the Pacific -and eastward to the Atlantic Oceans. I look at my watch; it is 7.55 P. -M. in Philadelphia and 5.55 here. We now make better time, and in twenty -minutes we arrive in Butte, and are met by Brother O. L. Chapman, C. -C., and Brother H. C. Grey, secretary and treasurer of Butte Division -No. 294, also Brothers J. H. Dunn and A. H. Elliott, of same division, -who introduce us to Major Dawson, “the man who knows everybody in -Butte,” and to Mr. J. R. Wharton, manager of Butte Street Railway, who -gives us the freedom of his lines. Our people are escorted by the kind -brothers who met us, by carriages and street cars, to the Butte Hotel, -where refreshments are served, after which we are loaded into two large -band wagons and driven through the principal streets of the city. Butte -is a wonderful city, worth a trip across the continent to see. It is -strictly a mining town and has a population of over 38,000. It is -situated near the headwaters of Clark’s Fork of the Columbia River, on -the west slope of the dividing range of the Rocky Mountains. Butte is -the county seat of Silver Bow County, a county marvelously rich in its -mineral products, the aggregate value of its gold, silver, and copper -product for one year reaching the enormous sum of $9,060,917.59; and yet -it is claimed the mining industry in this district is still in its -infancy. - -Butte is a city of fine, substantial buildings that are up to date in -style and beauty of architecture, and yet it is a bald and barren town, -for not a tree, a leaf, a bush, a flower, or a blade of grass can we see -anywhere within the length or breadth of its limits. It is surrounded on -every hand by smoking smelters and grinning mines, and its streets are -filled with rugged, stalwart miners. The eight-hour system of labor is -in vogue here, and the mines and smelters run day and night. The great -Anaconda Mine, owned and operated by the Anaconda Company, the richest -mining corporation in the world, extends, we are told, under the very -centre of the city of Butte, the Butte Hotel standing directly over it. -The pay rolls of the mining industries of Butte aggregate $1,500,000 -yearly. We are driven out to the Colorado Smelter, and on the way pass -the Centennial Brewery, where a short stop is made to obtain some -souvenirs. We are shown through the great smelter, and when we come out -it has grown quite dark. Our drivers are old stagers and understand -handling the reins. To one wagon are attached six white horses, driven -by W. M. McIntyre, of the New York Life Insurance Company, and to the -other wagon are four bays, driven by Hanks Monk, a well-known character -of the West. Hanks is an old stage driver, and claims to be a son of the -celebrated Hanks Monk of Horace Greeley and Mark Twain fame. Mr. Monk -tells us that he is a Mormon, and a deacon in Salt Lake City Church, but -has only one wife, and has found one to be plenty. He is a genial, -good-hearted fellow, who, notwithstanding the hardships of his rugged -life of fifty-seven years, looks but forty. Hanks claims he followed the -trail for many years and never got far astray, but he will have to -acknowledge that he got off the trail once, when he ran the wagon load -of Pennsylvania Railroad conductors into a sand bank in going from the -Colorado Smelter to the station in Butte on the night of May 28th, 1897. -Hanks, however, redeemed himself by the dexterous and graceful manner in -which he guided those bewildered horses until he struck the proper trail -again, and brought us to the station all O. K. It is 10 o’clock P. M. in -Butte and time for our train to start. We bid our kind and generous -friends and brothers adieu and get aboard. Engine No. 305, in charge of -Engineer J. Else, is drawing us, and Conductor J. A. West has charge of -the train; C. Dunham is our brakeman. We have as a guest on the train -Mr. H. E. Dunn, traveling agent of the Oregon Short Line. After a delay -of an hour at Silver Bow, waiting to get a helper engine to assist up a -grade, we start on our way again at 1.15 A. M. Eastern (11.15 P. M. -Mountain) time, and I make my way to my berth in the “Marco.” - - -SATURDAY, MAY 29th. - -Was awakened this morning between two and three o’clock by a jar that -almost tumbled me out of bed; thought at first our train had left the -track and had run into the side of a mountain; I lay quiet a moment, -expecting another crash. It didn’t come, and I realized our train was -standing still. “Guess I was dreaming,” I said to myself, as I reach -over, raise the window blind, and look out. A freight train is moving -past and our train is motionless. Mrs. S. is awake, and my movement -informs her that I am in the same condition. “What was that?” she -quietly asks, referring to the shock that awakened us. “I don’t know, my -dear, but I’m sure it was something,” I reply, satisfied now that it -wasn’t a dream. We believe the danger is over; that there is nothing to -worry about, and are soon asleep again. - -Arose this morning about the usual time and find we have just left -Pocatello, Idaho, 262 miles from Butte City. We have come through much -interesting country while asleep, and have missed seeing the beautiful -Idaho Falls. The shaking up we received last night was caused by -Engineer Oram coupling engine No. 760 to our train at Lima. Oram -miscalculated the distance and banged into our train with more force -than he intended. At Pocatello engine No. 760 is exchanged for O. S. L. -engine No. 735, with Engineer J. Andrews and Fireman Standrod in the -cab, Conductor G. W. Surman and Brakeman H. Hewett, who run us to Ogden, -134 miles. - -Pocatello is located in Fort Hall, Indian Reservation, and while passing -through this district we see a number of the natives. Much of the -country is level and covered with sage brush and bunch grass, -constituting immense cattle ranges, with here and there a plot of land -under cultivation, watered by irrigation, while at a distance on either -side can be seen great ranges of snow-capped mountains. We are reminded -of Chester County and home as we see the familiar name of “Oxford” above -a little station door as we fly past, midway between Dayton and Cannon. -We cross the State Line and enter Utah. Coming to Cache Junction, we are -in view of Bear River, that feeds the great irrigating canal constructed -by the Bay State Canal and Irrigating Company at a cost of $2,000,000. -This canal is about 80 miles long, the waters from which irrigate many -thousand acres of land; it is converting this dry and barren desert -country into a land of fertility, fruits, and flowers. - -As we approach Ogden this great improvement is very noticeable in the -beautiful, productive farms and homesteads that are seen on every hand. -The most of the settlers through this locality, we are told, are -Mormons, but the aspect of their condition and surroundings show them -to be a thrifty, industrious, enterprising people. We arrive in Ogden at -11.20 A. M., where a stop of only twenty minutes is allowed. We are met -by Conductor E. S. Croker, C. C. of Wasatch Division No. 124, and J. H. -McCoy, of same division, who is yardmaster for the Union Pacific -Railroad at this point. Much as we desire to make a tour of this -interesting city, our limited time will not allow it, but we can see -that it is a thriving business place. It is situated on the western -slope of the Wasatch Range, at an elevation of 4301 feet above sea -level, on a triangle formed by the Weber and Ogden Rivers, which, -uniting a short distance west of the city, flow across the famous -historic valley and empty into the Great Salt Lake. - -At Ogden, going west, the Union Pacific Railroad time changes from -Mountain to Pacific time. At 1.40 P. M. Eastern (11.40 A. M. Mountain) -time we start on our way again with R. G. W. engine No. 41, in charge of -Engineer J. Stewart, Conductor George King, and Brakeman J. Crompton. -From Ogden to Salt Lake City we are in continual view of the Great Salt -Lake, and pass a number of evaporating dams, where a large amount of -salt is procured through the process of evaporation. We arrive in Salt -Lake City at 12.30 P. M. Mountain time, and leaving the train we are -again hustled into wagons and driven over the city, the places of -interest being pointed out and explained by the drivers. Time and space -will not permit me to note and describe all the interesting features of -this historic and truly wonderful city. We passed through the famous -Eagle Gateway and halted on a lofty promontory overlooking - -[Illustration: “DAN,” SALT LAKE CITY RAILROAD STATION, UTAH.] - -[Illustration: GRAVE OF BRIGHAM YOUNG, SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH.] - -Temple Square, where we had a grand view of the magnificent $10,000,000 -Mormon Temple. Near the Temple is the Tabernacle, an immense, -singular-looking affair, with a roof like the shell of a huge tortoise. -We are shown the Lion House and Beehive House, former residences of -Brigham Young and his large family, and pass the grave where the remains -of the great leader lie. It is a plain, ordinary-looking mound, inclosed -with a common iron fence. The great monument erected to the imperishable -fame of Brigham Young is this beautiful, remarkable city that he founded -fifty years ago. For thirty years he was the temporal and religious -leader of his people here, and Salt Lake City was almost strictly -Mormon. It is exclusive no longer, for of its present population of -65,000 about one-half, we are told, are Gentiles or Christians. “The -Christian Science faith is making rapid advances,” says our driver, “and -many Mormons are being converted to that creed.” Brigham Young was the -father of fifty-six children; when he died he left seventeen widows, -sixteen sons, and twenty-eight daughters to mourn his loss, many of whom -are living yet. - -We are driven through Liberty Park, where is still standing the first -flour mill built in Utah. Returning to the train we get dinner, after -which our people scatter through the city to see the sights and gather -more souvenirs. We are all impressed with the beauty and regularity of -the streets, which all cross at right angles, are 132 feet wide, -including the sidewalks, which are 20 feet in width, bordered with -beautiful Lombardy poplar and locust trees. Along each side of the -street flows a clear, cold stream of water, which, with the beauty of -the trees and the sweet fragrance of the locust blossoms, gives to the -city an all-pervading air of coolness, comfort, and repose which is -exceedingly inviting to a warm and weary tourist. The hour grows late -and the time arrives to return to our train, which is sidetracked for -occupancy at the Rio Grande Western depot. Several of our party gather -at the corner of Main and Second South Street to await the coming of a -trolley car that will convey us to the depot, about two miles away. -According to the schedule of the line a car should pass every ten -minutes, but to-night must be an exception, for it is forty-five minutes -before our car arrives, and several of the party have started to walk. -It is near midnight when we reach our train and turn in for the night. - - -SUNDAY, MAY 30th. - -We are all astir bright and early this morning, and after breakfast, -through the courtesy of the managers of the Saltair and Los Angeles -Railway, we are tendered a trip on their line to Saltair, one of the -latest attractions on the Great Salt Lake, 10 miles from the city. We -leave the Rio Grande Western depot at 9.30 on a Saltair and Los Angeles -train with engine No. 2, Engineer A. M. Clayton, Fireman John Little, -Conductor Joseph Risley, Brakeman F. T. Bailey. We have a thirty -minutes’ pleasant ride through an interesting country. The first few -miles we pass through a district of cozy homes, surrounded by fertile -fields and gardens, the result of industry and irrigation; then come -great level stretches of country, utilized as grazing ground, upon which -can be seen feeding thousands of sheep. As we approach the “Great Dead -Sea” of America we see that gathering salt is the chief industry, and we -pass many basins or dams where hundreds of tons of this useful commodity -are procured through the process of evaporation. Arriving at our -destination we find Saltair is a magnificent mammoth pavilion built on -the waters of Great Salt Lake, 4000 feet from shore. A track resting -upon piles connects the pavilion with the mainland, and over this our -train is run. - -Saltair was erected in 1893 by Salt Lake capitalists at an expense of -$250,000. It is of Moorish style of architecture, 1115 feet long, 335 -feet wide, and 130 feet high from the water to the top of the main -tower. It is over a quarter of a mile from shore and rests upon 2500 -ten-inch piling or posts driven firmly into the bottom of the lake. It -contains 620 bath houses or dressing rooms, and connected with each room -is an apartment equipped with a fresh-water shower bath. Visitors who -wish to drink or lunch or lounge will find at their disposal a fine -apartment 151 by 153 feet, furnished with convenient tables and -comfortable chairs, or if it is their desire to “trip the light -fantastic toe,” they will find the ball room always open, a fine piano, -and dancing floor 140 by 250 feet. At night this wonderful place is -lighted by electricity, there being 1250 incandescent and 40 arc lamps, -and above all, in the centre of the building, there is an arc light of -2000 candle power. The bathing season has not opened yet and the water -is said to be cold, but many of us have a strong desire to take a plunge -in this remarkable and famous lake. The temperature of the water is -found to be about 75 degrees, and opinion is divided as to whether or -not it is too cold. Manager Wyman takes off his shoes and stockings and -dabbles in the water. “It is not cold,” he exclaims, “and I’m going in;” -and procuring a bathing suit he is soon splashing in the brine. His -example is rapidly followed by others, until the majority of our party, -both men and women, are floating and floundering around in water so salt -that its density enables one to swim and float with ease, but you are -helpless when you attempt to place your feet upon the bottom; the water -within the bathing limits averages about five feet in depth, and the -bottom is hard, smooth, and sandy. “If you get water in your mouth spit -it out, and if you get it in your eyes don’t rub them,” is the advice -given us by the bath attendant. If you get this water in your mouth you -want to spit it out right away; that part of the caution is unnecessary, -for it is the worst stuff I ever tasted. If you get it in your eyes you -will want to rub them, and rub them hard, but don’t do it, and you will -be surprised how soon the intense smarting will cease. - -We love to swim and dive and splash and sport in the water, and have -bathed in many places, but in a brine like this never before. In fact, -it has been said that nothing like it can be found anywhere this side of -the Dead Sea of Palestine. We remained in the water for an hour and all -thoroughly enjoyed its peculiar qualities. Several of the party who -never swam before did so to-day, but it was because they couldn’t help -it, and it was better than a circus to see them. Not one of us regret or -will ever forget our trip to Saltair and our bath in Great Salt Lake. -Strange as it may seem, this great inland sea occupies an altitude 4000 -feet higher than the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. It is 93 miles long, -with an average width of 43 miles, containing almost 4000 square miles. -It is shallow compared with the depth of other large bodies of water, -its deepest places measuring but 60 feet. A number of islands rise out -of its waters, the largest being Stansbury and Antelope, near its -southern shore. It is between these two islands that beautiful, -destined-to-be-celebrated Saltair is located. - -Returning, we arrive at the Rio Grande Western depot about 12.30, and -after partaking of lunch in our dining car we go in a body to attend -services in the Mormon Tabernacle. They were looking for us, for we had -been invited to come, and we find a section of vacant seats awaiting us -near the centre of the immense auditorium. We are all favorably -impressed with what we see and hear, the Mormon manner of worship being -not unlike that of any other church. So far as we can discern, the -speakers make no effort to expound any particular or peculiar creed or -doctrine, but preach charity, love, and duty to one another and -obedience to the laws of God, which is a religion good enough for the -entire world. An attractive feature of the service is the singing, the -choir consisting of 400 voices, accompanied by the music of what is -claimed to be one of the largest church organs in the world, and led by -a gentleman highly skilled in his profession, who manages his great -concourse of singers with remarkable accuracy and precision. This music -is aided and enhanced by the peculiar and marvelous acoustic properties -of the building, which seems to convey and distribute sound in such a -wonderful manner that the entire edifice is filled with the grand and -charming melody. We are all delighted and highly appreciate the -privilege of having been allowed to visit this, one of the noted wonders -of this famous Mormon city. The Tabernacle is an oddly-constructed -building, 250 feet long, 150 feet wide, and 80 feet high, covered with -an oval-shaped roof that, without any visible support except where it -rests upon the walls, spans the vast auditorium beneath, which will seat -over 8000 people. - -The place was well filled to-day, and we are told that it is not unusual -to have a congregation of 10,000 within the inclosure during Sabbath -service. There are twenty double doors nine feet in width, which open -outward, like the great doors of a barn, and the floor being on a level -with the ground outside, the vast congregation is enabled to make its -exit in a very few minutes without crowding or confusion. - -The services being over, we soon find ourselves outside the building, -but still within the inclosure that constitutes Temple Square. This -square or “block,” containing about ten acres, is surrounded by a wall -two feet thick and fourteen feet high, composed of adobe bricks built -upon a foundation of stone. Four great gates, one on each side, lead -into the inclosure, which is ornamented with fine shade trees and -beautiful flowers, and contains the three famous buildings of the -Mormons, or “Latter Day Saints,” as they prefer to be called. The -Tabernacle, where regular service is held each Sabbath, is the only -edifice to which the public is admitted. Assembly Hall, a large granite -building of unique design, erected in 1880 at a cost of $90,000, is used -exclusively by Church officials for special meetings - -[Illustration: THE MORMON TEMPLE AND SQUARE, SALT LAKE CITY.] - -pertaining to the business of the Church. The Temple, a grand granite -structure, the building and furnishing of which, we are told, has cost -many millions of dollars, is as a sealed book to the outside world. Its -interior is regarded as holy, consecrated ground, that has never been -contaminated by an “unbeliever’s” presence. To admit a Gentile within -its walls would be a fearful desecration. We cannot get inside, and gaze -in admiration and curiosity upon its grand and massive walls, wondering -what mighty mysteries are hidden within. Near the Temple that he -designed and the corner stone of which he laid stands the statue of -Brigham Young. - -Leaving the grounds, our party scatters, some returning to the train and -others strolling around the city. The sun shines very hot, but it is -cool and refreshing in the shade. Mrs. S. and myself make a call on Mrs. -Catharine Palmer, residing on State Street, a sister of Mr. C. K. Dolby, -of Delaware County, Pennsylvania, an acquaintance of mine, who requested -me to call on his sister had I the opportunity while in Salt Lake City. -We are cordially received and spend a pleasant hour with Mr. and Mrs. -Palmer, who are well advanced in years and very comfortably fixed. Their -residence is surrounded by great maple trees, planted by Mr. Palmer many -years ago, and he now loves to sit on his porch under their grateful -shade and enjoy the fruits of his well-spent days of industry and toil. - -On our return to the depot I encounter a party of the “boys” under the -escort of Mr. James Devine, chief of Salt Lake City fire department, an -acquaintance of Brother Leary’s, who are starting on a little tour -through the town. I join them, and boarding an electric car we make a -pleasant trip and are shown many places of interest. Mr. Devine is an -excellent guide and entertains us with a number of anecdotes and stories -of the people and their customs. “Who is the present head of the Mormon -Church, Mr. Devine?” I ask. “An old gentleman by the name of W. -Woodruff,” replies Mr. Devine, “but it will not be long, I think, before -they will need another, for Mr. Woodruff is past ninety years of age. A -short time ago, in commemoration of his ninetieth birthday, a family -reunion was held, at which gathering his children, grandchildren, and -greatgrandchildren numbered 90, one direct descendant for each year of -his life. The old man is quite wealthy and owns some of the most fertile -land in the State of Utah, if not in the world. I know it to be a fact -that an experiment was made last year with an acre of his land to -determine the amount of potatoes that can be raised per acre under -favorable conditions, and that acre produced the extraordinary yield of -800 bushels. A like experiment in producing wheat resulted in the -unprecedented yield of 82 bushels.” We can hardly credit this, but Mr. -Devine declares it is true. One of the “boys” has been holding a letter -in his hand, addressed to some friend in the East, and for some time has -been waiting for a chance to deposit it in a letter box without getting -left; at last he sees a chance, and quickly springing from the car when -it stops at a corner to discharge some passengers, he tries to find an -opening in what he supposes is a United States receptacle for letters. -“Hold on, there,” exclaims Chief Devine, “I have a key for that if you -want to get into it.” It is a fire-alarm box into which our brother is -trying to insert his epistle. “Twenty-five dollars fine for tampering -with a fire alarm in this town,” says Brother Maxwell, as the abashed -victim of the mistake returns to the car. “Yer-hef-ner bizness to monkey -with it,” chided Brother Schuler; but the proper place is soon found and -the letter safely mailed. - -We called on Jacob Moritz, president of the Utah Brewing Company, of -Salt Lake City, who showed us over his immense establishment and -entertained us in a very generous manner. During the conversation, Mr. -Moritz, while speaking about the decline of polygamy on account of the -vigorous enforcement of the law that forbids a plurality of wives, -recited an incident that came under his observation a short time since. -An old Mormon having several wives fell a victim to the stern mandate of -the law. Being under indictment for a criminal offense results in -disfranchisement, but the old gentleman did not know he could not vote. -Pending his trial an election occurred and the old man went to the polls -to cast his ballot, but was sternly challenged. He was dumfounded at -first, but was soon made to understand why he was denied the privileges -of citizenship. Raising his right hand toward Heaven he exclaimed, -“Gentlemen, you won’t allow me to vote, but, thank God, I have -twenty-four sons who can vote.” “That’s a family of boys to be proud -of,” remarked Brother Leary. “If they were illegally procured,” added -Brother Reilly. Mr. Moritz offered a fine cut-glass goblet to the one -who could come nearest guessing the number of drams it would hold. -Brother Waddington got closest to it and carried off the prize. - -Bidding adieu to our kind host, we returned to our train and found -dinner ready in the dining car. Chief Devine returned and took dinner -with us. We also had with us as a guest Mr. Nymphas C. Murdock, of -Charlestown, Wasatch County, Utah. Brother Barrett met Mr. Murdock at -the Tabernacle services this afternoon, and becoming interested in his -conversation invited him to visit our train. Mr. Murdock is a bishop in -the Mormon Church and an intelligent and highly entertaining gentleman. -Fifty years ago, when but ten years of age, he came with his parents, -who were followers of Brigham Young, on that famous journey to the Great -Salt Lake Valley. He has been identified with the Church since its -establishment here, and was the first settler in Charlestown, which is -located about 35 miles west of Salt Lake City, and he has been -postmaster there for 31 years. Mr. Murdock made no effort to intrude -upon us any of the peculiar doctrines or beliefs of his Church, but -answered all our questions in a frank and pleasant manner, giving us a -great deal of useful and interesting information. “Tell us something -about your Temple, Mr. Murdock,” I requested, “and why you consider it -too holy for visitors to enter?” “The Temple is considered holy because -it has been consecrated to holy creeds and devoted to sacred objects,” -answered Mr. Murdock in a solemn, quiet tone. “The spirits of the dead -assemble in the Temple to commune with living friends.” “If that is so I -don’t blame them for excluding the public,” I said to myself, “for if -there is anything that will make a spirit scoot it is the presence of an -unbeliever,” but I remained perfectly quiet, for I felt there was more -coming. “We have a creed,” continued Mr. Murdock, “that declares the -living can be wedded to the dead, and it is in the Temple that this -most sacred of all ceremonies is solemnized and performed.” “I can’t see -how it is possible,” I quietly remarked. “I will explain,” Mr. Murdock -gently said; “to the ‘believer’ it is very plain and simple. Suppose, -for instance, I am betrothed to a woman who sickens and dies before we -are married; if she truly loved me in life her spirit will meet me at -the Temple altar, where marriage rites will be performed that will unite -us for all eternity.” I really think Mr. Murdock is a good and honest -man and believes what he told us, but to us the whole matter seemed like -an interesting fairy story--very pretty, but outside the realm of truth -and reason. There were some pertinent questions in my mind I felt like -asking, but did not wish to injure the feelings or offend a kind and -entertaining guest, and so we bid him good-bye and let him depart in -peace. - -A number of our people went over to Fort Douglas this afternoon and were -highly pleased with the trip. George “Alfalfa” was along and met an old -chum over there in the person of William Barnes. William was a messenger -in the employ of Mayor Fitler, Philadelphia, when George and he were -buddies. He likes army life first rate and George says he is a good -soldier. The troops at Fort Douglas are all colored, commanded by white -officers. We are scheduled to leave this evening at nine o’clock, and it -is drawing near the time; our train is at the station and Manager Wyman -has ascertained that our people are all “on deck.” We must not forget -“Dan,” the pet bear at the Rio Grande Western depot. He was captured -several years ago when a cub and has been confined in a pen near the -station ever since. He is a fine big fellow now, and has been faring -well since our visit, for no one of our party thinks of passing the pen -of Dan without giving him some sweetmeats, of which he is very fond. My -last thoughts are of Dan, for finding I have some lumps of sugar and a -few cakes in my pocket, I hasten to his pen and give them to him, and -return just in time to get aboard. We leave promptly at 11.00 P. M. -Eastern (9.00 P. M. Mountain) time, over the Rio Grande Western Railway, -bound for Grand Junction, with the same engine and crew that brought us -from Ogden to Salt Lake City. As a guest we have with us Train -Supervisor Frank Selgrath, who will go with us to Grand Junction. At -Clear Creek, 83 miles from Salt Lake City, we get a ten-wheel engine, -No. 132, to help us up a six-mile grade with a rise of 200 feet to the -mile. This is a fine, picturesque country, we are told, through which we -are passing, but not being able to see in the dark, we cannot judge of -its beauty, and finding it is near midnight I hie away to my little bed -and am soon fast asleep. - - -MONDAY, MAY 31st. - -Awakened this morning about six o’clock by Mrs. S. remarking, “I never -saw the beat! Who would believe that so much of our country is desert?” -I thought she was talking in her sleep, but turning over I find her -gazing out of the window at the rapidly-fleeting landscape. We have -drifted away from the mountains and rocks and are crossing a level, -barren plain. For miles we see no sign of habitation or cultivation, but -now in the distance we catch sight of an irrigating canal, with here and -there a plot of land under cultivation whose fertility and verdure - -[Illustration: CHAS. E. HOOPER, OF THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE -RAILROAD.] - -break the hard lines of the desert monotony. We pass a station and upon -the name board we see the word “Fruita,” a singular name, we think, for -a station; but in the two seconds’ glance we have of its surroundings we -can but feel that it is appropriate. Irrigating ditches, fertile fields, -thrifty orchards, and blooming gardens are all seen in that fleeting -glance, and we are more than ever impressed with the fact that it needs -but water to convert these desert tracts into verdant fields. A number -of our people are astir, and we too “turn out.” We find we are in -Colorado, having crossed the State line at Utaline, a little station 35 -miles west of Grand Junction, which we are now approaching, and where we -arrive about seven o’clock. We halt here only long enough to change -engines, but in our brief stay we can see that Grand Junction is quite a -town. It has a population of about 4000; is located at the confluence of -the Gunnison and Grand Rivers, with an elevation of 4500 feet; it is -quite a railway centre, being the terminus of both the broad and -narrow-gauge lines of the Denver and Rio Grande, the Rio Grande Western -and the Colorado Midland Railways. - -At 9.08 A. M. Eastern (7.08 A. M. Mountain) time we leave Grand -Junction, on the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, with engine No. 522, -Engineer “Cyclone” Thompson, Fireman Bert Roberts, Conductor William M. -Newman, Brakemen J. Grout and O. McCullough. Conductor Hugh Long, of -Salida Division No. 132, and Charles E. Hooper, advertising agent of the -Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, met our train at Grand Junction, and we -find them a pleasing and entertaining addition to our party. They -present us with descriptive time tables, illustrated pamphlets, and -souvenir itineraries of our trip over the wonderful scenic route of the -Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. From Grand Junction to Glenwood Springs -we follow the Grand River through the Valley of the Grand, amid grand -and beautiful scenery. As we approach Glenwood Springs and pass the -little stations of Rifle and Antlers, Brother Sloane grows very -enthusiastic, for this is a noted hunting district, with which our -brother is familiar. From Newcastle to Glenwood Springs, a distance of -12 miles, we traverse closely the north banks of the Grand River, and -parallel with the tracks of the Colorado Midland Railroad on the -opposite side. - -Arriving at Glenwood Springs at 9.40 A. M., we go direct from the train -to the springs under the escort of Mr. Hooper, who has made arrangements -to give our party free access to the bathing establishment, where we are -very courteously received, and each one who desires to bathe is -furnished with a suit and a dressing room. Steps lead down into the -pool, which is about an acre in size and filled with warm, sulphurous -water to the depth of four to five feet. The hot water, at a temperature -of 120 degrees, gushes into the pool on one side at the rate of about -2000 gallons per minute, and on the opposite side an ice-cold mountain -stream pours in at about the same rate, keeping the water at a pleasant -bathing temperature. - -We spent an hour in the pool and enjoyed it mightily. How much fun we -had we can never tell, but we know we had fun, and other people knew it, -too, for the following item appeared in to-day’s _Avalanche_, an -afternoon Glenwood Springs paper:-- - -[Illustration: BATHING POOL AT GLENWOOD SPRINGS, COLORADO.] - -[Illustration: IN THE POOL AT GLENWOOD SPRINGS.] - - - “CONDUCTORS IN THE POOL. - -“The Pennsylvania Railroad conductors who arrived in Glenwood Springs -this morning from the West had more fun in the pool than a lot of wild -Indians. Their shouts of mirth and their laughter could be heard at -Cardiff, three miles south. If the Indians ever had as much fun in that -pool as those Pennsylvania Railroad conductors, then, Wampam woopham -longheir spookham.” - -We all feel that this item does us great honor, but we are puzzled for -awhile to understand the meaning of the closing expression, until one of -our party who had made a study of savage classic lore interpreted it as -meaning, “Yankem, spankem, daredevil blankem.” - -After leaving the pool, another hour was spent in visiting the sulphur -springs and vapor cave and in writing and mailing letters. The latter we -did in the beautiful Hotel Colorado, which is located near the bathing -establishment and is said to be one of the finest-equipped hotels -between the Atlantic and Pacific. The Grand River separates the baths -from the town, and is crossed by a double-decker bridge, the lower deck -for vehicles, the upper for pedestrians. We recrossed the bridge and -after a short wait for our train to be brought to us we again got -aboard, and at 3.00 P. M. Eastern (1.00 P. M. Mountain) time left -Glenwood Springs bound for Salida. - -For 16 miles we wind through the cañon of the Grand River, and view with -feelings of admiration and awe those towering walls of rock of such -peculiar construction and varied colors that we wonder what remarkable -process of Nature could have ever formed them thus. At Gypsum, 25 miles -from Glenwood Springs, Grand River disappears from view and we come in -sight of Eagle River, following it for several miles. We pass great beds -of lava and can see, away in the distance, a burned and blackened course -where the lava had flowed down a chasm in the mountain, perhaps -thousands of years ago. On the plateaus, at the foot of towering cliffs, -are numerous little farms in a thrifty state of cultivation. We stop at -Minturn to change engines, and bid “Cyclone” Thompson and his trusty -fireman, Bert Roberts, good-bye. - -We leave in a few minutes with engine No. 524. Engineer Al. Philliber -and Fireman Charley Wilcox are in the cab, “Billy” Newman and his -brakemen remain with us. Conductor Newman is a member of Denver Division -No. 44 and an enthusiastic lover of the order. He is a model conductor -and an entertaining companion. E. A. Thayer, Esq., superintendent of -hotel, dining, and restaurant service, is our guest from Glenwood -Springs to Salida, and we find him an interesting gentleman. Brother -Dougherty has found an old friend in Brother Hugh Long, and he has much -enjoyment in his company. Charley Hooper is everybody’s friend and -always has an admiring, interested group around him, and if we could -only remember all that Charley tells us we could write an intensely -interesting volume. He is perfectly familiar with all of this wonderful -country and is an exceedingly interesting companion. - -Soon after leaving Minturn we enter Eagle River Cañon, whose sloping, -pine-fringed walls rise to the height of over 2000 feet on either side, -almost shutting out the light of day. A heavy shower adds to the gloom, -but does not detract from the interest, for these mighty mountain sides -are honeycombed with hundreds of mines and dotted with the cabins of the -miners. It is very curious and wonderful to see a human habitation -hanging, as it were, a thousand feet in the air, on the side of a -mountain, where it would seem a mountain goat could hardly obtain a -foothold; yet there they are, and many of them--in one place an entire -village of red and white cottages, so very high up that they look like -miniature houses or dove cots suspended in the air. The products of the -mines are lowered to the railroad tracks by means of tramways operated -by endless chains or cables, and material is conveyed to the lofty -residents by the same novel arrangement. - -For four miles we wind up through this marvelous mountain ravine, deeply -interested in the wonderful sights and scenery of this extraordinary -mining industry. A short stop is made at Belden, where extensive gold -mines are in operation, but so high up on the mountain side are the -shafts or entrances to the mines that it is impossible to visit them in -the limited time we have. Since leaving Minturn our course has been -gradually upward, and we have Engineer Amberson, with helper engine No. -513, to assist us up the grade. Emerging from the famous and -never-to-be-forgotten Eagle River Cañon, we shortly come to the mining -town of Red Cliff. It is a lively, thrifty place of about 1000 -inhabitants, has an elevation of 8671 feet, and is surrounded by grand -mountain scenery. From this point Mr. Hooper directs our attention to a -view of the Mount of the Holy Cross, but only a glimpse is obtained of -the great white cross and then it is lost to view. “Distance lends -enchantment to the view,” quotes Mr. Thayer. “Do you know,” he -continues, “were it possible to transport you to the summit of yonder -mount, 20 miles away, and set you down, you would see no semblance of a -cross? You would only see rugged rocks, desolate peaks, and snow-filled -ravines; you would look in vain for the sublime and typical beauty that -you so easily discern 20 miles or more away. You would see, were you in -a proper location, the conditions and materials that make your beautiful -picture. A great valley or ravine extends down the mountain side, into -which the snows of many Winters have drifted. This is one of Nature’s -perpetual ice houses, whose supply never becomes exhausted. Across the -face of the mountain, near the summit, crossing this ravine at right -angles, is another great depression or fissure, likewise filled with -perpetual ice and snow. All the surroundings are rugged, rough, and -broken, and you would never think of looking for the likeness of a cross -in the wild, bleak desolation of ice-bound, snow-filled mountain chasms. -Distance, however, obliterates the rocks and roughness and smooths the -rugged features of the mountain side, and the great white cross of snow -stands out in bold relief, as though formed of carved and polished -marble. It is a pretty picture, and one that the imagination and -sentiment of man have almost rendered sacred.” - -We are now approaching Tennessee Pass, and our engines are working hard -as they climb the steep ascent. Our progress is slow, but so much the -better, as it gives us an opportunity to contemplate and enjoy the -indescribable beauty of this famous mountain scenery. We reach the pass -shortly after four o’clock, at an altitude of 10,418 feet, the highest -point on the main line of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. Here we -again cross the Great Continental Divide and enter the Atlantic slope. -Mr. Hooper calls our attention to a tiny stream of water flowing near -the track, remarking as he does so, “That is the headwaters of the -Arkansas River. We follow it for a number of miles and it will be -interesting to notice it gradually increasing in size and volume as we -proceed.” Our course is slightly downward and our rate of speed -increases. We soon reach Leadville, where we halt for half an hour. The -time is insufficient to allow us to visit the town, but we get out and -look around. A train of freight cars is standing on a sidetrack a short -distance away, loaded with ore, and the “boys” are told to help -themselves. A number avail themselves of the opportunity of procuring -Leadville “specimens” for souvenirs. The pieces carried away, I imagine, -contain but very little of the precious metal, for I believe, judging -from the appearance, that the “specimens” are being obtained from a -train load of railroad ballast. I tell Brothers Sparks and Matthews and -some of the rest my convictions, but they call me a “tenderfoot” and say -I “don’t know a good thing when I see it.” Maybe I don’t, but I have a -chunk of that stuff in my pocket that I will take home and exhibit to my -friends as a specimen of Leadville gold quartz, and if they know no more -about the material than I do they will believe it. If it is but a stone, -I will prize it as a souvenir from the most noted mining camp of the -West. - -Leadville first became famous in 1859 as the richest gold-mining camp in -Colorado, and was known as “California Gulch.” Five million dollars in -gold dust were washed from the ground of this gulch the first five years -after its discovery, then for fourteen years it lay almost dormant, -until in 1878 rich deposits of silver were discovered. At that time the -place took a new lease of life, was renamed Leadville, and has been a -booming city ever since. It now has a population of 15,000 inhabitants -and is the county seat of Lake County. Leadville has an elevation of -10,200 feet, enjoying the highest altitude of any city of its size in -North America, if not in the world. It lies amid some of the grandest -and most magnificent scenery to be found anywhere, and is surrounded by -towering, snow-capped mountain peaks, whose glistening summits almost -pierce the sky. We find the atmosphere cool and bracing, but so -exceedingly rare that a brisk walk or short run will make you pant for -breath. I found this out when I ran to the sidetrack for a piece of -“ballast.” - -Our half hour is up and Conductor Newman and Manager Wyman are shouting -“All aboard!” We scramble on, and at 7.40 P. M. Eastern (5.40 P. M. -Mountain) time our train pulls out and we leave in our rear an -interesting, picturesque, and famous town. At Malta, five miles from -Leadville, we lay on a sidetrack ten minutes waiting for a train we meet -at this point. Leaving Malta, we pass through a fertile valley, through -which flows the Arkansas River, that we notice is rapidly growing larger -and more turbulent. We are still running parallel with the Colorado -Midland Railroad, which for miles is within fifty feet of the Denver and -Rio Grande. We notice a severe storm raging on a mountain not far away, -and it seems to be snowing hard at the summit. - -[Illustration: WALTER W. TERRY, OF THE COMMITTEE.] - -As we pass Buena Vista, 25 miles west of Salida, the setting sun is -shining upon the snow-crowned summits of the collegiate group of -mountain peaks, Harvard, Yale, and Princeton, and many are the -exclamations of pleasure and delight at the beauty and grandeur of the -sight. These three peaks, each over 14,000 feet in height, are a part of -the Sawatch Range of the Rocky Mountains. With their cloud-veiled crests -wreathed in perpetual snow, those majestic, rugged giants are ever -subjects of interest and pleasure to tourists; but this evening the -setting sun has transformed their crowns of glistening snow into -dazzling diamonds, and the veil of fleecy clouds that hang about their -summits into a gorgeous canopy of purple, silver, and gold. It is a -scene of transcendent loveliness and grandeur. No wonder our people are -in ecstasies of delight. Mrs. Dougherty claps her hands, and Mrs. -Matthews exclaims, “Jimmie, look!” Jimmie, Waddie, Oscar, and the -Colonel suspend their interesting game of euchre and turn their -attention for a moment to the mountains and the clouds. Mrs. Horner has -such an expression of intense rapture in her face that Sam, thinking she -is about to have a fit, pours a glass of ice water down her back. Mrs. -Mattson says she believes she has an artist’s soul, for a sight like -this makes her nerves tingle and her mouth water, and the Doctor, -standing near, is explaining to an interested circle the philosophy of -sunshine, clouds, and colors in their relation to towering, snow-crowned -peaks. Suddenly mountain views are obstructed and the light of day is -almost excluded by massive walls of rock that encompass us. We have -plunged into Brown’s Cañon, a mighty chasm in the mountain, between -whose towering cliffs there is just room enough for the Arkansas River -and the railroad. For many, many years the river held undisputed sway -and rushed unaccompanied and alone through this rocky, desolate gorge, -till then the railroad came. The nerve and daring of the men who brought -it were equal to the task. They followed the foaming river into this -wild ravine and fearlessly built their tracks upon its spray-bathed -banks; and now as train and river rush headlong together through this -narrow, dark defile, the snort of the locomotive and rumble of the train -mingles with the roar and gurgle of the tumultuous torrent. - -We emerge from the cañon as suddenly as we entered it, and the broad, -fertile valley of the Arkansas greets our vision. It is a pleasant -change. Still following the river, we traverse the valley until at 7.55, -as daylight is fading and it is growing dusk, our train comes to a stop -in Salida. We are met at the station by Superintendent R. M. Ridgway, -Trainmaster G. H. Barnes, and Chief Dispatcher W. Rech, of the Denver -and Rio Grande Railroad, who give us a cordial welcome and kindly inform -us that arrangements have been made to give us a trip to-morrow over the -narrow-gauge road to Marshall Pass and return. Escorted by Mr. Hooper -and Conductor Newman, a number of us start out to see the town. - -Salida is a quiet, clean, orderly, picturesque little mountain town of -about 3500 inhabitants. It is situated on the Arkansas River, with an -elevation of 7050 feet. We accept an invitation to visit the fine -parlors of the Salida Club and are royally treated by the members -present. Our bosom friend and life preserver, Tom McDonald, is along, -and proves to be quite an expert with the billiard cue, giving his -opponent, Dr. Mattson, a hard hustle in the game they play. A party of -our ladies get on our trail and overtake us at the club. They present -the bachelor brothers of the party each with a miniature souvenir spoon, -but give no explanation why this is done. The inference is that it is -but an act of sisterly good-fellowship that needs no interpretation. -Following the presentation of the spoons the ladies entertain us for -half an hour with excellent singing and music on the piano. As it draws -near midnight we return to our train and turn in. Some of the “boys,” it -is noticed, are not with us when we reach the train, and to them I will -have to ascribe another line of “unwritten history.” - - -TUESDAY, JUNE 1st. - -Everybody is up bright and early this morning, in anticipation of the -promised trip up the mountains to Marshall Pass. After breakfast we -board a special train on the Denver and Rio Grande Narrow-Gauge -Railroad, and at 8.12 o’clock start on a novel and interesting ride of -25 miles over a road that is a marvel of engineering ingenuity and -skill. It requires two engines to make the laborious ascent, which in -many places is 211 feet to the mile. Our engines are No. 175, manned by -Engineer Sam Roney and Fireman W. Brewster; helper engine No. 400, -Engineer W. D. Yates, Fireman M. M. Smith. Conductor M. Guerin has -charge of the train, and the brakemen are Tom Kelley and F. Duncan. - -Five miles from Salida we reach Poncha Junction, and here the winding -and climbing commences in earnest. The weather since we started has -become unfavorable; clouds obscure the sun and hide the summits of the -surrounding peaks. It has commenced to rain, but the rain lasts only for -a little while. As we ascend the clouds become lighter, and finally we -see the sun and the sky. Looking down, the clouds and mist hide the -valleys from our sight--we are above the clouds and rain; looking up, we -behold the brightest, bluest sky we have ever seen; and still our course -is upward. Our engines snort and cough and puff as they slowly climb and -wind the spiral pathway that leads to the wind-swept summit. - -As we near the top we have a magnificent unobstructed view of grand, -majestic mountain scenery. Near by looms up mighty Mt. Ouray, an extinct -volcano, down whose rugged sides, ages ago, the molten lava flowed; -fire-scarred and grim he stands, a silent, frowning sentinel guarding -the mountain pass. His companion, Mt. Shaveno, is near, his towering -summit being crowned with eternal snow. Mounts Ouray and Shaveno were -named in honor of the famous Ute Indian chiefs, and are everlasting -monuments to the memory of a once powerful tribe. - -Far in the distance, many miles to the south, can be seen, mingling with -the sky and clouds, the gleaming peaks of the Sangre de Cristo -Mountains, the grandest range of the Sierras. All this range of vision, -from Ouray to Sangre de Cristo, is filled with picturesque valleys, -timbered hills, mountain cañons, towering peaks, and glistening snow. -While we are feasting our eyes upon this grandeur, suddenly it is shut -out from view, for we have entered a dismal snow shed. The train stops -and our journey is ended. We get out of the train, - -[Illustration: COLONEL AND MRS. MITCHELL AT MARSHALL PASS.] - -[Illustration: THE “COMMITTEE” AT MARSHALL PASS.] - -and looking around, we see a door that leads from the shed, which we -pass through, and find snowdrifts six feet deep and the wind blowing a -gale. - -I see Brother Restein snap his kodak at Colonel and Mrs. Mitchell as -they bravely face the wintry blast; the committee is lined up and he -also snaps at them. Steps lead to a lofty tower and a number of us -ascend. Some start and turn back; the exertion makes your heart beat -like a trip hammer, cuts your wind, and makes you dizzy. We who reach -the top do not tarry long; the view is magnificent, but the wind is -cold. Overcoats and wraps were brought along and they are needed; the -thermometer registered eleven last night, and now it stands at -thirty-three. It is a bleak, barren, wind-swept place, and yet it is -healthy. - -A family has been living here for five years. The husband and father is -employed on the road and the mother has charge of the station. She has -never been absent from the place, she says, since they took up their -residence here. The oldest child was an infant when they came, and two -have been born since. They are fine, healthy children, and have never -been sick. A doctor has never visited them, she says, because one has -never been needed. We are ready to leave before the train is ready to -take us; a short visit to a place like this is sufficient. Several of -the “boys” amuse themselves by snowballing one another and washing with -snow the faces of some of the “girls.” - -Marshall Pass is 10,852 feet above the level of the sea, and is situated -upon a point of the Great Continental Divide--on the ridge pole, as it -were, between the Atlantic and Pacific slopes. Within the dingy snow -shed where our train is standing we notice water slowly trickling down -the bank into the ditch along the track; it makes a tiny stream, just -large enough to flow, and we can see that it is running in each -direction. A number of us place our fingers upon the dividing line, thus -literally touching a point of the very comb of the great water shed -between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. - -Our return is made with more speed than our ascent, but in a very -careful manner; helper engine 400 is detached and sent ahead. The -descent is made by gravity, the air brakes being used to keep the train -under control. Engineer Roney deserves great credit for the careful -manner in which he handles the train. A stop of five minutes is made at -Mear’s Junction, where we make the acquaintance of Station Agent Smith, -who, along with his duties as station agent and telegraph operator, is -an artist of merit; a number of pictures of mountain scenery that he has -painted adorn the walls of the station rooms. - -When we get back to Salida and to our train it is 2.05 P. M. Eastern -(12.05 P. M. Mountain) time. We find our friend McDonald looking for us, -with an abundant lunch prepared, which we heartily appreciate and -thoroughly enjoy. We are scheduled to leave here at one o’clock, and as -it is nearing that time, we bid adieu to the good people of Salida who -have shown us such a royal time, and at one o’clock, sharp, we steam -away from the pretty little town, bound for Colorado Springs, 142 miles -nearer home. - -Leaving Salida we have engine 509, in charge of Engineer John Carr and -Fireman R. Wilmonger. Our conductor is J. E. Duey, a member of Arkansas -Valley Division No. 36, of Pueblo, Col. Brother Duey enjoys the -notoriety of being a cousin to the late Jesse James, the famous bandit -and train robber. The brakemen are S. G. Carlisle and William Shoemaker. -Charlie Hooper is still with us, and at present is busily engaged in -distributing fine photographic pictures of scenes along the picturesque -Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. Mr. Hooper’s kindness and generosity are -greatly appreciated, and the pictures will be highly prized as valuable -souvenirs of our trip. In addition to Mr. Hooper we have with us as -guests Brothers W. Newman and Frank Smith, of Division 44, and Harry -Hart, of Division 36. A short stop is made at Parkdale, 46 miles from -Salida, where we meet Rev. John Brunton, who is invited to accompany us -to Pueblo. Mr. Brunton, who is an old engineer, retired from active -service, is First Division Chaplain, and has charge of the employés’ -reading room in Pueblo. He is an entertaining old gentleman; says he is -employed to fight the devil, who is always sneaking around after -railroad men. Brother Houston says, “A man like that is needed on the -Schuylkill Division.” No one replies to this insinuation, except Brother -Reagan, who merely says, “Sure.” - -Soon after leaving Parkdale we enter the Grand Cañon of the Arkansas, -which is 8 miles in length and the crowning wonder of all the marvelous -sights we have yet beheld; a mighty pathway, right through the heart of -the Rocky Mountains, hewn by Nature through inaccessible towering -mountain walls. Through this narrow gorge, whose perpendicular walls -rise to the height of over 2000 feet, the crowded, pent-up waters of the -Arkansas River rush and roar and foam. There is scarcely space for both -railroad and river, but with an audacity that knows no shrinking the -intrepid engineers entered the walled-up, darksome cañon, and, following -the intricate winding of the surging stream, laid their tracks of steel -along its foam-flecked bank. Beyond a doubt it is the most daring feat -of railroad engineering ever performed. When half way through the awful -Royal Gorge is reached, here the river holds despotic, undisputed sway -for a distance of 100 feet. There is no bank to lay the tracks upon; -from wall to wall the river surges, leaps, and roars. From out the water -those mighty walls, built by Nature’s hand, run right straight up, 2600 -feet in the air. Ingenuity and nerve solves the problem; a bridge is -built parallel with the river’s course, one side resting upon a granite -ledge, hewn in the side of the cliff, the other side suspended from rods -attached to the overhanging wall of the opposite cliff. Over this -construction the trains securely pass, while underneath the torrent -rushes on. - -Before reaching the bridge our train stops, and as many as wish get out -and walk over, in order to obtain a good view of the awe-inspiring -grandeur of the Royal Gorge. It is truly a wonderful sight, and one we -will never forget. We do not tarry long to contemplate the scenery, for -a mean, commonplace shower of rain is falling, and we hurry to the train -to avoid getting wet. - -Issuing from the cañon, we enter a broad and fertile valley, through -which flows the ever-present Arkansas River, and in a short time pass -through Cañon City, a town of considerable importance, having a -population of 3000, and the county seat of Fremont County. The State -penitentiary is located here, and near by are mineral springs of great -value, making it a favorite resort - -[Illustration: THE ROYAL GORGE AND HANGING BRIDGE, GRAND CAÑON OF THE -ARKANSAS.] - -for those in quest of retirement or health. We didn’t stop. The sight of -the broad, unfettered freedom of the fertile Arkansas Valley, with its -hundreds of acres of fine orchards and miles of magnificent grazing -land, is a pleasure and relief after so much cramped and rocky glory, -and gloomy, walled-up grandeur. - -Pueblo is reached at 6.25 P. M. Eastern (4.25 P. M. Mountain) time, and -a stop of ten minutes is made for the purpose of changing engines. We -have not time to take in the city, but we disembark and take a look -about the depot, which is called Union Station, being the joint property -of five different roads and used by them all, namely, the Denver and Rio -Grande, Santa Fé, Missouri Pacific, Rock Island, and Union Pacific, -Denver and Gulf. The building is composed of red sandstone, a handsome -structure, and is commodious and convenient. Pueblo, though situated in -a valley or basin surrounded on three sides by distant mountain ranges, -enjoys an elevation of 4668 feet. It has a population of 40,000 -inhabitants, is the centre of extensive mining industries and immense -railroad traffic. Because of its great, ever-smoking smelters, and -glowing furnaces and foundries, Pueblo is often called the “Pittsburgh -of the West.” The Arkansas River flows through the heart of the city, -but is not navigable, and its sloping banks are neatly walled to prevent -overflow in time of freshet. Bidding good-bye to our old new-found -friend, Rev. Brunton, and waving adieu to the 509 and the gallant men in -her cab who brought us safely through such scenes of weird, bewildering, -perilous grandeur, we start on our way again with engine 534, in charge -of Engineer Henry Hinman and Fireman George Courtly. Conductor Duey and -Brakemen Carlisle and Shoemaker go with us to Colorado Springs. - -After leaving Pueblo we pass through an extensive oil district, where -many wells are in operation, and we are told the yield is very heavy. We -arrive in Colorado Springs at 8.20 P. M. Eastern (6.20 P. M. Mountain) -time, and escorted by Brothers Newman, Hart, Smith, and Mr. Hooper, we -start out to see the town. Colorado Springs is a model town. It is -quiet, clean, and dry; in fact, it is _very dry_, being entirely and -teetotally temperance. But this is a commendable trait; we find no -fault, and are all impressed with the morality and good order which -prevail. It is a healthy place; the houses are not crowded together. The -population is 12,000; the town has an elevation of 5982 feet, and covers -an area of four square miles. It is much resorted to by invalids, and -thousands, we are told, are yearly benefited by taking advantage of its -exhilarating atmosphere, favorable climatic conditions, and the pleasure -and enjoyment derived from interesting and beautiful natural -environments. - -Soon after starting out we encounter Brother D. F. McPherson, secretary -and treasurer of Holy Cross Division 252, of Leadville, who joins us in -our rambles. After giving the quiet little city a pretty thorough -inspection, we are grouped upon a corner discussing where we shall go -next. “We have shown you the most cleanly and orderly town in the State -of Colorado,” remarks Mr. Hooper, “and now I would like to show you just -the reverse; we will take the next car and slip over to Oldtown.” In two -minutes the car comes, and getting aboard, a ride of two miles brings us -to the - -[Illustration: ASCENT OF PIKE’S PEAK BY MANITOU AND PIKE’S PEAK RAILROAD -(COG WHEEL).] - -neighboring town, where it seems every third door is a saloon and -gambling resort. Wherever we go there is turmoil and excitement. We see -no outbreaks of strife, but in these crowded gambling rooms we visit, -the swarthy miner and reckless stockman jostle one another in their -eagerness to reach the tempting roulette wheel or alluring faro table. -We can see they are excited, although they are calm, but it is the -calmness of suppressed emotion, and we are careful as we move among them -not to tread upon their toes; not that we are afraid to tramp their toes -if we want to, but we don’t want to; we didn’t come out West to make -trouble, so we are always careful what we do, if we are not so careful -where we go. - -Getting enough of Oldtown, we board a car and are soon back in sedate -Colorado Springs and seek our train, that is sidetracked for occupancy -near the station. I size up the crowd as they file in and find some are -missing; they have dropped out of the ranks and escaped us, and--more -“unwritten history.” It is near midnight, all is dark and silent, and we -quietly seek our berths. - - -WEDNESDAY, JUNE 2d. - -All are up about the usual time this morning, and after breakfast -Manager Wyman announces that those who wish to make the ascent of Pike’s -Peak will take the 8.30 train on the Colorado Springs and Manitou Branch -for Manitou, six miles away, where the Manitou and Pike’s Peak railway -station is located. The 8.30 train starts with about half of our party -on board. It is cloudy and we are afraid the weather will be unfavorable -for the trip. When we arrive at the station in Manitou we can see that -the great mountain is enveloped in fog and mist. We hesitate about going -up, but the station agent receives a telephone message from the summit, -saying the weather up there is clear, and the most of us decide to go. -And when at 9.40 we start, I notice the occupants of the car and find -the following members of our party aboard: Mr. and Mrs. Wyman, Mr. and -Mrs. Maxwell, Mr. and Mrs. Layfield, Mr. and Mrs. Horner, Mr. and Mrs. -Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs. Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Dougherty, Mr. and Mrs. -Climenson, Mr. and Mrs. Foulon, Mr. and Mrs. Elder, Mr. and Mrs. Reilly, -Mr. and Miss Barrett and a lady friend, Miss Emma Leibing; Mr. Reagan -and a lady friend, Miss Jennie Heaney; Mrs. Mattson, Messrs. Waddington, -Haas, Taylor, Crispen, Denniston, Moore, Williams, Sloane, Kilgore, -Restein, and myself. The car is pushed by engine No. 4, in charge of -Engineer D. M. Jones. This little locomotive is an odd-looking thing, -built expressly for this line by the Baldwin Locomotive Works, of -Philadelphia, Pa. It has four cylinders and carries 200 pounds steam -pressure. It is constructed with two cog wheels underneath its centre, -which operate in corresponding cog rails placed in the centre of the -track, and has the appearance of being a strong and safe appliance. -Engine and car are not coupled together, but the engine in the rear -pushes the car ahead of it, which gives the tourist a fine, unobstructed -view of the scenery. - -The grade averages almost 900 feet to the mile, which we ascend at the -rate of about five miles per hour. The road is almost nine miles in -length and we are one hour and forty-five minutes making the ascent, -having left - -[Illustration: GATEWAY TO THE GARDEN OF THE GODS, COLORADO; PIKE’S PEAK -IN THE DISTANCE.] - -the station at Manitou at 9.40 and arriving at the summit at 11.25. We -thought it was a slow trip and a tedious climb, but it wasn’t when we -consider the experience of some other people in connection with this -mountain several years ago. Ambition and desire are strong impulses in -human nature, often having more influence than a sense of duty. - -When Major Zebulon M. Pike first sighted this mountain that bears his -name on the morning of November 13th, 1806, he had a burning desire to -give it a close inspection, and led his followers a ten days’ rugged -march before he reached its base. From this point he looked up to its -apparently inaccessible snow-crowned summit, and concluded it would be -impossible to scale its rocky, bouldered sides. Retiring from the -locality, he reported that he “had discovered a grand mountain peak, -bare of vegetation and covered with snow, but he believed that no human -being could ever ascend to its pinnacle.” - -When, thirteen years afterwards, on the morning of July 13th, 1819, Dr. -Edwin James and his four comrades stood and gazed upon the terribly wild -and awful grandeur of this mighty mountain peak, they faced the same -conditions that caused the intrepid Pike to turn his back upon the scene -and withdraw: perpendicular cliffs whose walls no man can climb, -enormous rocks and giant boulders impossible to remove or surmount, -great chasms that cannot be crossed or bridged, deep, wild ravines that -seem to be impenetrable. All this they saw, yet they did not hesitate, -for they were filled with a wild ambition and burning desire to -accomplish what Pike had not dared to undertake. So they started, and -after two days of perilous hardship and toil they reached the summit, -on July 14th, 1819. - -Their ambition was gratified, and so is ours. We did not come up for -pleasure, for there is no pleasure in it; the novelty of the thing -brought us here, and we find it novel enough. We wanted to stand on the -apex of these snow-bound, wind-swept, zero-blistered heights, 14,147 -feet above the beating billows of the sea, and see what it is like. We -are finding out; it is colder than Chestnut Hill in midwinter. The snow -is six feet deep and the wind whistles a tune as it sweeps through -Colonel Layfield’s whiskers. The sun is shining when we get out of the -car, and with the snow whirling down our backs and tears streaming from -our eyes we spend three minutes looking down upon the far-away valley -scenery and the towns of Manitou and Colorado Springs. Then we enter the -old Government signal station, which has been turned into a curio shop, -telegraph office, post office, and restaurant. We find the temperature -more congenial, and put in the time examining and purchasing novelties -which are neither valuable or cheap, but are wanted for souvenirs. We -buy postal cards at ten cents each and mail them to friends, and send -telegrams at five cents per word. Manager Wyman sends a dispatch to -Ticket Receiver Stackhouse, Philadelphia, informing him of our -whereabouts and condition, but he couldn’t tell it all. The message -didn’t tell how near Waddie was to being fired off the train at Hell -Gate because he couldn’t find his ticket, as Restein had it in his -pocket; nor how eager Sloane was to chase the badger we saw running over -the rocks above Timber Line, but the conductor wouldn’t stop the train -to let him off. - -[Illustration: ON PIKE’S PEAK: ALTITUDE 14,147 FEET.] - -We have got enough of Pike’s Peak and are ready to go, but the engine is -away with the snow plow and we will have to wait for its return. We have -seen all there is to be seen and have bought what souvenirs we want. My -last purchase was a tissue-paper napkin; I gave thirty cents for it, but -had a cup of coffee and a sandwich thrown in. Our engine has returned -and we go out to get in the car. The sun is hidden by a great dark -cloud, the wind blows harder than ever, and the car is locked up. A -photographer is on hand with his outfit and wants to take a picture; -somebody ought to throw him over the precipice. We are huddled about the -end of the car like a tempest-stricken flock outside a sheepfold gate, -shivering and shaking in the blast. As the picture fiend adjusts the -camera it begins to snow; in thirty seconds we are in a raging blizzard, -the instrument snaps and the car door is unlocked, but before we all get -inside many of us are covered with snow. - -We are in the storm until we get below Timber Line, and the force of the -wind drives the snow across the car as it sifts through the ventilators -and in around the windows, and some of us are feeling pretty groggy. I -do not like the sensation; when I speak I talk through my hat, and my -ear drums feel ready to burst. When I go up so high again I want to go -to stay; there may be such a thing as becoming acclimated. - -The descent is made in a careful manner, with the engine in front. We -arrive safely in Manitou at 1.40 P. M., and the party scatters. Some -return to Colorado Springs and some drive through the Garden of the -Gods. Many who did not ascend the peak have had a good time visiting -other interesting places, and tell interesting stories of the -remarkable things they saw. The little burros or donkeys are in evidence -everywhere, and several of our people got their photos taken seated on -these cute little animals with the Balance Rock in the background. Some -of the timid ladies of our party, I am told, are shy of these meek -little creatures, saying they look fierce and dangerous because their -ears are so large. The only danger is in their hind feet, for they can -kick very quick and hard, injuring one another sometimes in this way -when they get to frolicking, which they often do. - -Brother Schuler was in one of the carriages that drove through the -“Garden of the Gods” to-day, and it is interesting to hear him relate in -his inimitable manner the many curious things to be seen. A heavy -thunder and hail storm descended upon Manitou this afternoon, with -another blizzard on the peak, and the weather has become quite cool. -Mrs. E. T. Postlewaite took dinner with us to-day as a guest of Brother -and Mrs. Springer. Our people are scattered this evening, amusing -themselves in various ways. Brothers Brown, Horner, and myself take a -stroll after dinner. We stop at the Antlers Hotel, that is well worth a -visit, being one of the finest-equipped hotels we have seen in our -travels. - -We were introduced to the chief of police of the city and kindly shown -the large, interesting, and gruesome collection in the Rogues’ Gallery, -pictures of some of the most noted crooks and renegades that ever -infested the West, along with weapons and tools of all descriptions that -were used in their murderous and nefarious business. One set of burglar -implements, in particular, containing one hundred and fifty-five pieces, -that had been - -[Illustration: BRIDE AND GROOM AT BALANCE ROCK, GARDEN OF THE GODS, -COLORADO.] - -captured from a suspect by the name of Jerome Markle, we find very -interesting; it is said to be the largest and most complete burglar’s -outfit ever captured. Returning to the train about 9.30, we are glad to -meet W. E. Frenaye, Esq., city editor of the Colorado Springs _Gazette_, -who has dropped in on us for a friendly chat. Mr. Frenaye was connected -with Assistant General Passenger Agent Boyd’s office at one time, and is -an old friend of Brother Maxwell. Being scheduled to leave here at 2 -o’clock A. M., we all turn in at a reasonable hour. - - -THURSDAY, JUNE 3d. - -Getting up this morning at six o’clock, I find we are entering Denver. -We have engine 570, Engineer Wm. Jenness, Fireman W. C. Lawhead, -Conductor I. Larsen, Brakemen Cunningforth and McGinn. Soon as the train -stops, Mrs. Terry and Mrs. Shaw strike off in search of the post office, -for they are expecting letters from home. Our train is sidetracked in -the yard and Brother Terry and I walk over to the station, a short -distance away, and look around. It is pretty quiet; the great city has -not wakened up to the business of the day and the railroads haven’t -commenced their bustle and confusion. This is a large station, one of -the finest we have seen in the West; twelve railroads use it, which -diverge from here in all directions and run to all parts of the United -States. This is what a railroad time table tells us that I have just -picked up. It also tells us that Denver is considerable of a town, that -it is the county seat of Arapahoe County and the capital of the State of -Colorado. It enjoys an altitude of 5196 feet and has a population of -165,000 inhabitants. - -We return to the train and find breakfast waiting. While we are at -breakfast the ladies return from the post office; they were too early to -get letters, for the office wasn’t open, but they were loaded with -souvenirs they had procured on the way. After breakfast we are notified -to remove all stuff from our sections to the baggage car, as the cars -are to be cleaned. This is a notice that isn’t calculated to sweeten -temper. It has been served on us several times since we started from -home, and we know what an annoyance it is, but we rejoice to know this -is the last time we will suffer the inconvenience. - -After this task is accomplished a number of us take a 25-mile ride -around the city on the “Seeing Denver” trolley line. It is a delightful -ride, and in this way we see many interesting features of the “Queen -City of the Plains.” The car we are on is No. 111, in charge of Motorman -Ewell and Conductor F. F. Porter. Mr. H. Given accompanies the car and -points out and explains interesting localities and places. We can see -that the educational facilities of Denver are up to date. Our attention -is called to Westminster University, located on a knoll just beyond the -city limits, said to be one of the finest institutions of learning in -the State. We pass near the Louisa M. Alcott Public School, one of the -finest public buildings we have ever seen. Having reached the suburbs we -are out amongst cultivated fields, and Mr. Given, in speaking of the -fertility of Colorado soil and the abundance of their crops, called our -attention to the rich growth of the alfalfa grass in a field close at -hand. At the utterance of the word _alfalfa_ a protest went up from the -party; they had had all the alfalfa they wanted in Texas, and begged Mr. -Given to give them no - -[Illustration: MANITOU SPRINGS, COLORADO.] - -more. Manager Wyman explained why our people dislike the name of -alfalfa. Mr. Given said he could but acknowledge that we had just -reasons to boycott the name, and thought he could give us some -information that would increase our dislike the more. “Perhaps you do -not know,” he continues, “that there are hundreds of tons of alfalfa -leaves shipped yearly from Colorado to New York to adulterate the tea -you drink?” This is certainly news to us; it is something we did not -know, nor are we sure of it yet, notwithstanding Mr. Given’s assertion; -nevertheless it may be true. - -We cross the South Fork of the Platte River, that flows through the -centre of the town, from which the city’s supply of water is taken, and -are shown the Public Park, containing four hundred acres, that is kept -up by a tax on the city property owners amounting to $125,000 a year. -Our attention is directed to the towering smokestack of the Omaha and -Giant Smelter, which rises to the height of 352 feet and is said to be -the highest chimney in the world. This is one of the most extensive -smelters in America, and since its erection, a trifle over twelve years -ago, it has treated ore amounting to nearly $300,000,000. In addition to -the Omaha and Giant Smelter there are a number of other plants in active -operation. The ores treated are gold, silver, copper, and lead. The -total product of the Denver smelting industry amounts to $40,000,000 per -year. - -Denver is six by ten miles in extent, and I think we rode all the way -around it and part way through it. It is a city of beautiful, -substantial residences and superb public buildings, the most noticeable -being the State Capitol Building, completed in 1895 and costing -$2,550,000. - -The streets of this great city are not in as clean a condition as they -might be; mud in many places is ankle deep, caused, Mr. Given informs -us, by the recent heavy rains turning the dust into mud. What an awful -dusty city it must be when not muddy; we imagine an occasional heavy -shower is a great relief, for dust is a far greater evil than mud. We -would quietly suggest to the City Fathers of this great metropolis, for -the sake of the health and comfort of their citizens and the pleasure -and convenience of visitors, that they eliminate the dust from their -town by scraping up and carting to the dump the mud from the streets, -through which pedestrians are forced to wade every time it rains. - -Our trolley ride finished, we alight at Brown’s Palace Hotel. This -magnificent structure, covering an entire block, ten stories in height, -built of brown sandstone, interior finished in Mexican onyx, and costing -the neat little sum of $2,000,000, is the pride of Denver. Here “The H. -J. Mayham Investment Company” has its headquarters in a suite of offices -on the first floor. We are kindly received by Mr. W. H. Coombs, a -representative of the company, who loads us down with illustrated and -descriptive books and pamphlets. - -It is now past noon, and from here our party scatters. Mrs. Shaw desires -to visit Mrs. Edward Bicking, formerly Miss Madeline Ramsey, of West -Chester, Pa., who is living in or near Denver. We consult a directory -that gives Mr. Bicking’s address as 313 Ashland Avenue, Highlands. We -immediately take a car, and after a lengthy ride arrive at the given -address only to find they had moved to Golden, 15 miles west of Denver. -Returning to the Union Depot, we take the 3.10 train on the Union -Pacific, Denver and Gulf Railway, and arrive in Golden after a pleasant -ride of forty-five minutes. We have no difficulty in finding the -pleasant home of Mr. Bicking, where we meet with a cordial welcome. They -persuade us to remain over night with them and we enjoy our visit very -much. Mr. Bicking operates a large paper mill, and having no competition -does a large and thriving business. Golden is a pleasant, healthy town, -having an elevation of 5655 feet. It has about 3000 population and until -1868 was the capital of Colorado. It is situated on Clear Creek, a fine -mountain stream, and near the entrance to the famous Clear Creek Cañon. -It is surrounded by towering cliffs and great mountain ranges, amongst -which it quietly nestles. - -Years ago Golden was a stirring mining camp, but the excitement and -bustle of the mining industry has been moved farther up the cañon, -leaving this community in comparative quiet. Last July a cloudburst -occurred in the mountains, and the flood, rushing down the cañon, swept -through the town of Golden, destroying much property and drowning -several persons. We took a walk in the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Bicking -around the town and saw many traces of the awfully destructive deluge. - -I learned before leaving Denver this afternoon that a trip for to-morrow -had been planned for our party, over the Union Pacific, Denver and Gulf -Railway, up Clear Creek Cañon to Silver Plume, 54 miles from Denver. The -train is due in Golden at nine o’clock. It is our purpose to meet it and -join the party. Having spent a very pleasant afternoon and evening, we -retired about ten o’clock. - - -FRIDAY, JUNE 4th. - -Having enjoyed a good night’s rest, we arose about seven o’clock, and -after breakfast Mr. Bicking escorted us over his mill, which is only a -short distance from the pleasant cottage in which they reside. The time -arriving for us to start for the station, we bid adieu to our kind -friends and join our party on the train under the escort of F. M. Shaw, -traveling agent of the Union Pacific, Denver and Gulf Railway, bound for -Silver Plume, up the picturesque Clear Creek Cañon, and over the Great -Loop. We have U. P. D. & G. Ry. engine No. 7, with Engineer Si Allen at -the throttle. The train is in charge of Conductor John W. Ryan, a member -of Denver Division 44, who is an old friend of Brother Reagan’s. The two -had not met for years, and the reunion was a happy one. It was through -the efforts of Conductor Ryan that we are given this pleasant trip -to-day. - -Leaving Golden, we enter the wilds of Clear Creek Cañon, similar in many -respects to Eagle River Cañon, the mighty sloping hills on either side -being honeycombed with mines. In places the cañon is very narrow; the -rugged walls overhanging the tracks almost meet at the top, a thousand -feet above. The stream we follow is a shallow one, and here and there we -catch sight of a prospector wading in the water with his shovel and pan, -washing the sand he scoops up from the bottom of the creek in the hope -of finding grains of gold. A diligent prospector, we are told, realizes -in this manner from two to ten dollars per day. For 22 miles we follow -the windings of Clear Creek up through this narrow, rocky gorge, and -then the cañon terminates in an open, level - -[Illustration: BACHELORS AND BURROS IN THE GARDEN OF THE GODS.] - -plateau of about one hundred acres, surrounded by seamed and rugged -mountains, grinning with prospectors’ pits and the open mouths of mines. - -Here is located the pretty little mining town of Idaho Springs, at an -elevation of 7543 feet. We make a stop of ten minutes and get out to -look around. We run right along the edge of the creek and several of the -boys look for gold in the sand of the shallow water, but I hear of none -being found. It is cloudy, a light rain is falling, and having reached a -pretty high altitude the wind is chilly. Leaving Idaho Springs the open -observation car is almost deserted, the closed coaches being far more -comfortable, the most of our people caring more for comfort than for -scenery. Thirteen miles from Idaho Springs we pass through Georgetown, a -mining town of considerable size. Here we commence the Great Loop -ascension; the railway winding around the mountain crosses itself at one -point, and looking down we see nearly 200 feet beneath us the track -where we had been but a short time before. Thus we climb until we reach -Silver Plume, at an elevation of 9176 feet, arriving there at 12.20 -Mountain time. - -Leaving the train, we visit the Victoria Tunnel and Mendota Mine. Under -the escort of the mine boss the majority of the party enter the mine, -each one bearing a lighted candle, for the tunnel is dark as a dungeon. -This tunnel is hewn from the solid rock and extends for 2000 feet -straight into the mountain side before the rich vein of silver ore is -reached. When we reach the end of the tunnel we are almost directly -under the centre of the peak, a thousand feet under the surface of the -ground. After procuring a few small pieces of ore as souvenirs we -retraced our steps and were glad to get out into open daylight once -more. On our return to the train we encountered a light snow squall. We -leave Silver Plume at 2.15 o’clock for return trip, with Brothers -Maxwell, Reagan, and Agent Shaw on the cow-catcher. A donkey on the -track sees us coming, flops his left ear, switches his tail, and wisely -steps aside. We arrive safely in Denver at six o’clock and find dinner -waiting in our dining car, to which we all ably respond, feeling that in -McDonald and his worthy attachés we have valued friends. After dinner -our people scattered over the city, amusing themselves in various ways, -and not having furnished the writer with reports of their experience, he -can but note, “unwritten history.” - -Brother F. H. Conboy, of Division 44, has kindly made arrangements with -the managers of the Overland Park races to admit members of our party at -reduced rates, and a number talk of attending the races to-morrow should -the weather prove favorable. We are not very highly impressed with this -climate at the present time, for it is entirely too cold and damp to be -agreeable. - - -SATURDAY, JUNE 5th. - -According to our original itinerary this is the day we should arrive in -Philadelphia, yet here we are at Denver, in the midst of as disagreeable -a spell of weather, we are told, as ever was known here. Each afternoon -since we have been here it has snowed on the mountains and rained in the -valleys; heavy wraps and overcoats are worn by our people when they -venture away from the train. “This is not a sample of Colorado weather,” -I hear Charlie Hooper declare, and we are all very glad it isn’t, for -the sake of the people who have to stay here; we are not going to remain -much longer, and wouldn’t be here now, only for the irrepressible -tantrums of the Rio Grande River. Our people scatter again to-day, and I -cannot tell where they went or what they saw. - -Mrs. Shaw and myself visited an old friend and former neighbor, David -Cannon, on his beautiful Broadway dairy ranch, six miles south of -Denver. An electric line runs within half a mile of his residence. We -were very cordially received and spent a pleasant day. We also visited -the splendid Windsor ranch, owned by Major Dubois, ex-mayor of -Leadville, and operated by Messrs. Penrose and Cannon. We met the Major -and Miss Dubois and were very kindly treated by them. The Windsor and -Broadway dairy farms comprise a fine, beautiful, level tract of land, -containing 1000 acres in a highly improved condition. It commenced to -rain again about three o’clock and we returned to the city in a cold, -beating storm. Mrs. Bicking, who was with us, remarked that in the four -years of her residence in Colorado she had, heretofore, experienced no -such weather as this. - -The rain had ceased when we reached our train, about five o’clock. Found -most of our company there and photo artists Stanton and Warren with -their outfit, preparing to picture the train and party. We forthwith -arrange ourselves in a group about the end of the train in a manner -according to the instructions of the artists. Mrs. Bicking is requested -to join the group and her little son, Austin, is placed upon the -platform of the car. Our dinner this evening was an interesting and -happy occasion. Brother Reagan’s friend, Conductor John Ryan, and his -family were guests, and during the repast Mr. Ryan presented Brother -Reagan with a handsome floral tribute, representing a keystone, composed -of roses and carnations, with inscription in immortelles: “From Jack to -John, who were Boys Together.” Below the inscription, artistically -wrought with the same kind of flowers, is a representation of clasped -hands. Brothers Reagan and Ryan were boys together, grew up and learned -railroading together, but have been separated for about eighteen years. -The event was a happy one and will be long remembered by those who -participated. A few of our people attended the Overland Park races -to-day, but the weather was unfavorable for the sport. Brother Crispin -met an old schoolmate this afternoon, Mr. J. H. Harris, who is connected -with the inspection department of the Denver and Rio Grande Road. Mr. -Harris took charge of Brother Crispin and several others and showed them -a good time. - -We are scheduled to leave here at midnight, and conclude to remain up -till we start. There is usually an entertaining time in the smoker and -the hours pass quickly away. We start promptly at 2.01 A. M. Eastern -(12.01 A. M. Mountain) time over the Burlington and Missouri River -Railroad, known as the “Burlington Route,” with B. & M. engine 317, -Engineer W. Fuller, Fireman C. Babcock, Conductor C. W. Bronson, -Brakeman E. Q. Robie. As guests we have with us leaving Denver -Trainmaster J. F. Kenyon and Traveling Engineer C. A. Dickson. It is now -past midnight; we have said goodbye to the kind friends who remained -with us till the start, and as we leave the great city of Denver behind -us we feel both glad and sorry; glad that we are once more speeding -toward our Eastern homes, but sorry to lose sight of the matchless -Colorado scenery and part with our kind and generous Colorado friends. -The efforts made to show us a good time by the kind people of Denver and -by the railway officials of the various lines are highly appreciated by -each member of the party. Charlie Hooper will be remembered so long as -memory of the trip shall last; may his appetite never grow less nor his -shadow ever shrink. - - -SUNDAY, JUNE 6th. - -Got up this morning about seven o’clock and found we were approaching -McCook, Neb., having crossed the line from Colorado into Nebraska during -the night at a point about 80 miles west of McCook. Conductor Bronson -and Brakeman Robie are members of Harvey Division No. 95, of McCook. -They have intimated that we may expect a reception from the members of -that division on our arrival at McCook; this information having been -given out last evening, the most of our people are up when the train -stops in McCook at ten minutes past seven, and we are met by a large -delegation of brothers of Division 95 with their wives and daughters, -who give us a cordial, happy greeting. The McCook Band is on hand and -renders delightful music, and the hour allowed us here passes quickly -away. B. & M. engine 232, in charge of Engineer J. E. Sanborn and fired -by Charlie Williams, has been selected to draw us from McCook to -Hastings, a distance of 132 miles. Engineer Sanborn is a member of -Harvey Division 95, having at one time been a conductor, and has the -232 handsomely decorated with flags and flowers in honor of the -occasion. On each side of the cab beneath the windows are the letters -“O. R. C.,” surrounded by the emblem of the order. The engine is much -admired by the members of our party, and snap-shots are taken by -Brothers Restein and Foster. - -Left McCook at 10.00 Eastern (9.00 Central) time. On leaving McCook time -changes from Mountain to Central, and we now run one hour behind Eastern -time. From McCook to Hastings we have with us as guests Brothers V. H. -Halliday, F. Kendler, and C. E. Pope, who are members of the -entertainment committee from Division 95, and the following ladies of -McCook: Mrs. C. W. Bronson, Mrs. V. H. Halliday, Mrs. F. Kendler, Mrs. -C. E. Pope, Mrs. Beyer, Miss Grace Sanborn, and Miss Mabel Jordon. We -have a pleasant entertainment in the combined car, during which Mrs. -Bronson and Miss Sanborn sing in a charming manner several choice -selections. Arriving in Hastings at twelve o’clock, noon, we make a halt -of five minutes to change engines, and bidding adieu to the kind friends -of McCook who gave us such a royal greeting, we continue on our way with -engine 227, Engineer H. L. Beaty, Fireman F. C. Parkerson, Conductor J. -G. Chase, Brakeman Fred. Sharpe. Our guests are Brothers M. E. Shepard, -of Claude Champion Division No. 227, of Lincoln, Neb., M. E. Crane, of -Creston Division No. 21, of Creston, Iowa, and Trainmaster E. W. Carter. - -At Fairmount, 43 miles from Hastings, we make a short stop to allow some -guests to get aboard; they are Brothers W. B. Morledge, J. H. Burns, of -Division 227, - -[Illustration: “WHO ARE WE? WHO ARE WE? P. P. C.! COOKS, WAITERS, AND -PORTERS OF THE O. R. C.!”] - -[Illustration: THE “232.” McCOOK, NEBRASKA.] - -W. J. Robinson, of Omaha Division 126, and Chief Dispatcher C. L. Eaton. -Brother Burns is entitled to special mention, being introduced to us as -“the largest conductor on the Burlington Route. He is 6 feet 1 inch tall -and weighs 290 pounds.” “If we only had ‘Big Frank,’ of the New York -Division, with us,” says Brother Denniston, “we could beat that by 1 -inch and 10 pounds.” - -“While we are not able to produce our largest conductor to compare him -with yours,” spoke up Manager Wyman, “we have with us one who enjoys the -distinction of being the smallest conductor on the Pennsylvania Railroad -System, being but 5 feet 3 inches in height and weighing only 109 -pounds. I take pleasure in introducing you to Brother Charles L. -Springer.” Brother Springer took the joke good-naturedly and responds in -a pleasant manner, telling the advantage of being small; that his size -enables him to get through places with ease where large men dare not -attempt to go. We notice that Conductor Chase is a great favorite with -the ladies of our party, who are trying to rob his uniform coat of its -pretty golden buttons, that they covet for souvenirs. A stop of half an -hour is made at Lincoln, where we arrive at three o’clock. Conductor -Chase, to save his coat, procures a number of uniform buttons and -distributes them among the ladies. Division 227 adjourned meeting this -afternoon to meet us at the station on our arrival, an action very much -appreciated by our boys, and the half hour was spent in pleasant -greetings. The “boys,” the cooks, waiters, and porters, and the ladies -gave their yells in turn as the time came for us to leave, and the -effort of the ladies was loudly applauded. - -We leave Lincoln with the same engine and crew that brought us from -Hastings, and they take us to Pacific Junction, a run of 177 miles. We -feel that we are in good hands, for Conductor J. G. Chase was selected -to take charge, from Pacific Junction to Hastings, of the Mayham -Special, that on February 15th and 16th, 1897, broke the world’s record -for long-distance running, having made the run from Chicago to Denver, a -distance of 1025 miles, in 1047 minutes. Engine 227 that is now pulling -us drew the special from Lincoln to Hastings, a distance of 96 miles, in -109 minutes, a speed of about 53 miles per hour. This did not quite -reach the average rate of speed made on the trip, which was 58¾ miles -per hour. Leaving Lincoln we have with us as additional guests Brothers -W. C. McDermott and C. Kast, of Division 227, and Engineer F. B. Arnold. -We arrive in Omaha at 5.15 P. M., and within ten minutes after our -arrival we are speeding through the city on electric cars, under the -escort of Brother W. J. Robinson and Superintendent of Street Car -Service T. H. Todhunter, who has placed two fine open trolley cars at -our service and personally directs their movements, switching us from -one thoroughfare to another until almost the entire city is traversed. -It is a pleasant afternoon and we greatly enjoy the delightful ride -through this, one of the greatest cities of the West, noted for its -rapid growth, having increased from a population of 30,518 in 1880 to -140,452 in 1890, and we are told that present indications point to the -likelihood of it reaching 300,000 in time for the census of 1900. - -Omaha is up to date in all that pertains to the health, comfort, and -welfare of her citizens, and we are all favorably impressed with her -clean streets, pleasant homes, and fine, substantial public buildings. -Omaha has a curfew law, recently established, the beneficent effects of -which are already noticed and highly recommended. It keeps off the -streets after nine o’clock at night boys and girls under sixteen years -of age, unless accompanied by parents or guardians. - -We have consumed more time in doing the town of Omaha than was intended, -and consequently, when we leave at 7.05 we are thirty-five minutes late -on our schedule; but we are on a line noted for its “fast time,” and -probably the delay will be made up. A number of the boys from Creston -Division No. 21 and their ladies came up to Omaha to meet us this -afternoon, and return with us to Creston. - -We have the pleasure of having with us L. H. Wright, C. C. of No. 21, -Mr. and Mrs. R. McCoy, Mr. and Mrs. J. W. Smelley, Mr. and Mrs. J. C. -Felker, Mr. and Mrs. Nugent, Mr. and Miss Bradey, Mr. Donoven, Train -Dispatcher Ed. Robeson, Master Mechanic G. L. Beckwith, J. W. Fedder and -mother, Mr. and Mrs. Roberts, F. M. Price, Miss Galeger, Miss Thompson, -Miss Gaul, Miss Gaven, Miss Obine. Leaving Omaha we do not cross the -Missouri River and enter Iowa via Council Bluffs, but follow the river -south for 26 miles to Plattsmouth, where we cross the turbid stream on a -substantial bridge and enter Iowa at Pacific Junction, having traversed -the southern border of the State of Nebraska for 366 miles. We saw a -fine, level country, dotted with neat, substantial farm buildings, and -judging from the many well-filled cribs of last year’s corn, it must be -a country extremely rich in agricultural products. - -At Pacific Junction a change of engines and crews is made, and bidding -adieu to good-hearted, good-natured Captain Chase and his genial crew, -we continue on our way with C. B. & Q. engine 318, in charge of Engineer -George Goodrich and Fireman T. H. Hillis, conducted by M. Farrell, whose -brakemen are T. A. McDonald and T. Munson, who will take us to Creston, -a run of 86 miles. Thirty-five miles from Pacific Junction we make a -short stop at Redwood, and receive additional guests in the persons of -Division Superintendent J. H. Duggan, Mr. Frank Gillman, J. B. Kirsh, -chief engineer of Creston Division No. 112, B. of L. E., and Conductor -T. G. Snair. We have now about thirty-five guests aboard and our train -is pretty well filled up. It seems to be an off Sunday with many of the -good people along the line, and they have turned out to show us a good -time, and they can never guess how much their efforts are appreciated. -It is 10.15 P. M. when we arrive in Creston, and as we approach the -station Superintendent Duggan, who has been watching the time, informs -us that our train has covered the last 36 miles in forty-two minutes. A -large bonfire is burning on an open lot near the station, and the -juvenile band of Creston is playing a stirring piece when our train -comes to a halt. There is a large crowd on hand to greet us, and the -forty-five minutes we remain among them passes quickly and pleasantly -away. We bid good-bye to our many new-found friends, and at 11.02 P. M. -leave Creston with C. B. & Q. engine 232, with Engineer J. Consodine at -the throttle, and conducted by G. W. Yetts. The brakemen are W. D. -Willits and G. A. Bessey, which crew takes us to Burlington, 190 miles. -The “232” was also on the famous Mayham Special from Creston to Red -Oak, and made a record of 62½ miles per hour. Conductor Yetts had -charge of the train from Burlington to Creston. - -We have had a full day, and every one of the party feels that we have -been honored by the demonstrations of good-fellowship that have marked -our progress through the States of Nebraska and Iowa. We are all very -tired to-night; this is the thirtieth day of our outing; each day a -picnic and every night a circus. It is now drawing near the midnight -hour, and as we steam away from the hospitable, wide-awake little town -of Creston, with her bonfire and her band, our sincere wish is that the -sun of prosperity may ever shine upon her. The combined car has been -vacated and the refreshment corner is deserted; George H. Anderson, the -hardest-worked man in the outfit, is making up his bed, Brother Sparks’ -El Paso pup has ceased his whining and now is snoring, and Sister -Matthews’ Denver magpie for once in its life is silent. These things I -notice as I quietly leave the smoker and make my way to little No. 3, in -the “Marco.” - - -MONDAY, JUNE 7th. - -Getting up this morning about six o’clock, I find we are in Illinois, -having crossed the Mississippi River during the night at Burlington, -where a change of engines was made. We now have C. B. & Q. engine 511, -handled by Engineer D. Sullivan and fired by J. Watson. Conductor W. L. -Boydston, a member of Galesburg Division No. 83, has charge of our -train, whose brakemen are J. M. Forsythe and T. G. White. This engine -and crew will run us to Chicago, a distance of 206 miles. Illinois is a -rich agricultural State, whose well-cultivated farms and fine buildings -exhibit a high degree of prosperity and thrift. Arriving in Chicago at -8.45 our people scatter to take in the sights of the city as best suit -their individual inclinations. I have no knowledge as to where they went -or what they saw, but the inference is that everybody was busy, for it -is a physical impossibility for a person to remain still in this town; -such hustling, aggressive activity I never saw before. If you attempt to -saunter or stop to look you are the victim of a hundred bumps a minute; -you’ve got to get in the race and keep going, or climb a tree. - -On our arrival Mrs. S. and I were met by Mrs. Ray Melchor, Mrs. Shaw’s -sister, a resident of the city, who took charge of us, and I am glad she -assumed the responsibility, for I never felt more in need of a guardian -in my life than I did when in the heart of this mighty metropolis with -its great sky-scraping buildings and tearing cyclone of humanity. Mrs. -Melchor proved an excellent guide, and showed us more of this wonderful -town than one would think possible in the few hours allotted us, besides -giving us a delightful carriage ride along the lake front and through -Jackson and Washington Parks. We also visited Lincoln Park and saw the -famous Ferris Wheel. Mrs. Melchor returned with us to the train and -accompanied us as far as the suburban station of Englewood, where the -train was stopped to allow her to alight. We left Chicago at 5.40 P. M. -on the Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne and Chicago Line, with P. Ft. W. & C. -engine 147, Engineer Frank Higgins, Fireman Robt. Giffin, Conductor M. -J. Prindiville, Brakeman H. B. Walton, and Flagman Geo. Roberts, who -take us to Ft. Wayne, 148 miles. Near Whiting, a short distance beyond -the limits of Chicago, we cross the line and enter Indiana, which also -has the appearance of being a rich agricultural State. - -In the evening an interesting meeting is held in the smoking car, and -presided over by Brother Geo. Brown, for the purpose of effecting a -permanent club, to be composed of the members of the Pennsylvania -Railroad conductors’ excursion party. Selecting a name leads to -considerable discussion, until Brother Denniston suggests the “Golden -Gate Club,” which is unanimously adopted. The following brothers are -elected officers of the club: President, C. E. Wyman; vice-president, L. -E. Sheppard; secretary and treasurer, W. J. Maxwell. Pullman conductors -Suter and McDonald are admitted as honorary members. The meeting, which -lasted from 8.30 to 9.20 P. M., is succeeded by the admission to the car -of a delegation of the ladies, led by Sister Reilly, who introduces an -entertaining game called “The California Pets,” or “Dead Hand,” which -consists of an outstretched sheet, around which sit as many as can -conveniently do so, with their hands beneath the sheet, and guess the -names of articles that they cannot see, which are passed from one to the -other. The game continues for some time and produces a great deal of -merriment, until an article is passed to Miss Ella that causes her to -shriek with fright. She quickly passes it to Brother Reagan, who turns -pale and shudders as though he had seen a ghost; he in turn tosses it to -Brother Williams, who is thrown into a spasm when he grasps the nasty -thing, and flings it into Brother McCarty’s lap, who clutches it, drops -it, exclaims “Hell!” jumps up, all at the same time, and makes a break -for the door. It was only a kid glove that Mrs. Reilly had filled with -sand and soaked in ice water, that felt to the touch like the cold and -clammy hand of a corpse. - -The rear car “Orchis” was christened “Hogan’s Alley” in the early stages -of our trip, because of the spirit of fun and frolic that at times ran -rampant there. To-day, while Brother Houston was visiting his brother in -Chicago, who is connected with a publishing house, he procured a number -of large cards with “Hogan’s Alley” printed upon them, and hung them up -through the car. There were also two swinging from the rear platform -when the train left Chicago, much to the amusement of the people who -were gathered at the station to see us off. - -We reach Ft. Wayne at 9.30 P. M., and after a delay of a few minutes -changing engines, start on our way again with P. Ft. W. & C. engine 272, -Engineer M. Shea, Fireman E. Blanchard, Conductor T. J. Kanaga, Brakemen -W. B. Kelley and A. C. Kyle, who take us to Crestline, Ohio, 132 miles. -At the little station of Dixon, 20 miles east of Ft. Wayne, we cross the -State line and enter Ohio. We are drawing nearer home and all feel very -glad, although it will be like the breaking up of a large and happy -family for us to separate. We expect to reach Pittsburgh early in the -morning, and Brothers Haas and Schuler are saying goodbye, for Haas -leaves us at Allegheny City and Schuler at Pittsburgh. It is approaching -midnight, and as we skim across the State of Ohio we retire to our -little beds and are soon fast asleep, lulled into repose by the soothing -hum and motion of the train, that we have learned to regard as a great -help to pleasant dreams and unbroken slumber. - - -TUESDAY, JUNE 8th. - -Getting up this morning about 5.30, I find we are approaching Allegheny -City. It is a wet, foggy morning, and the Ohio River, in sight of which -we are running, is high and muddy. We had changed engines at Crestline -during the night, and now have P. Ft. W. & C. engine No. 288, Engineer -Geo. Hood, Fireman F. Eberly, Conductor E. W. Davis, Brakemen E. W. -Simpson and J. W. Syms, who take us into Pittsburgh, a run of 188 miles. -When we stop in Allegheny City at six o’clock quite a number are astir -to bid Brother Haas adieu; five minutes later we stop in Pittsburgh and -part with Brother Schuler. Brother Sloane also leaves us here, as he has -business to transact in the “Smoky City” before coming East. - -Time changes here from Central to Eastern, one hour later, and we leave -Pittsburgh at 7.17 A. M. with P. R. R. engine 1631, with Engineer M. -Daily and Fireman S. K. Dobson in the cab. Our conductor is N. E. Garber -and Brakemen W. J. Maxwell and Frank Dick. This crew runs us to Altoona, -a distance of 117 miles, where we arrive at 10.35. After a delay of five -minutes in changing engines we start on our way again with P. R. R. -engine 646, in charge of Engineer H. Funk and Fireman E. Wilson. J. R. -Bockus is conducting the train, whose brakemen are G. H. Free and G. W. -Miller. Our train stops at Tyrone, 15 miles east of Altoona, to allow -Brother and Mrs. Matthews to get off. They are obliged to leave us at -this point, for they had left their little four-year-old daughter here -in the care of relatives until their return and are longing to clasp -Baby Ellie once more in their arms. This is a busy day with the members -of the party and an interesting one for the porters. In a neat and -characteristic speech Brother Reagan, in behalf of the lady occupants of -the “Marco,” presents Dennis Jackson with a substantial token of their -appreciation of his kindness and courtesy toward them during the trip, -they always finding him ready and willing to obey and oblige; and Dennis -deserves their generous remembrance. Brother Sheppard, in behalf of the -occupants of the “Milton,” holds up Dick Pettus in the same manner and -for the same purpose, and presents him with a generous token of their -regard. Physically Dick is a giant, and all who know him will testify -that he is as good-natured and kind as he is big and strong. The -residents of “Hogan’s Alley” (“Orchis”) surround George Custis, while -Brother Denniston in an eloquent speech tells him how good he is and how -his goodness has been appreciated by the restive but good-natured and -harmless inhabitants of this noted quarter, who desire to show their -regard for the service he has rendered them by giving him a token of -remembrance. George is worthy of their generosity, and quietly accepts -the donation, saying to me as I pass him, “I often thought of the -warning you gave me the day we started out.” - -Arriving in Harrisburg at 1.37 P. M. we bid adieu to Brothers Gilliland, -Haefner, Smith, and their wives, also Brother McCarty, who leave us at -this point, and changing engines for the last time we proceed on our way -again with P. R. R. engine 296, Engineer H. B. Humphreys, Fireman J. -Mahan, Conductor Dan. Harvey, Brakeman George Wilson. We are met in -Harrisburg by a delegation from Philadelphia, composed of the -following-named gentlemen, who constitute a Welcome Home Committee: -Brothers John Mooney, Budd Roulon, George Stultz, Tony Hughes, Frank -Vandyke, of West Philadelphia Division 162; J. Kelly and J. P. Anchor, -of Camden Division 170; Trainmaster J. Thompson, Operator C. Devinney, -and Baggagemaster Ed. Lynch, who accompany us to Philadelphia. They -present each one of our party with a very pretty little white badge -bearing the initials “O. R. C.” in monogram and the inscription “Welcome -Home” in golden letters. We have a number of badges and innumerable -souvenirs that have been gathered on the trip, but not one among them -all will be more highly prized than the little “Welcome Home” badge that -bears silent but eloquent testimony to the deep fraternal sentiment that -rejoices in our safe arrival home. - -We have had a most wonderful trip; have traveled almost 9000 miles; no -one has been injured and no one seriously sick. A prairie dog and a jack -rabbit, so far as we can learn, are the only victims that met death by -our train. We have crossed eighteen States and Territories, encountered -no train robbers, experienced no wrecks, not having on a car during all -our journey so much as a hot box or flat wheel. - -Brother Layfield has been diligently obtaining punch cuts of the -conductors he has met _en route_, and succeeded in obtaining -forty-eight. Had they all been equipped with their punch that he met he -would have had many more. The Colonel has been collecting punch marks -for several years, and now has three hundred and fifty, nicely arranged -in an album designed for the purpose. We are pained to learn that -Brother Charles Larue, of Camden Division 170, was thrown off his train -yesterday and badly injured. He is a member of the Welcome Home -Committee and had intended to accompany the rest to Harrisburg to meet -us. - -Our train rolls into Broad Street Station, Philadelphia, at 4.20 P. M., -and we are warmly greeted by many friends who have gathered in the great -train shed to welcome us home. From the station we are escorted to Odd -Fellows’ Temple, Broad and Cherry Streets, by the Reception Committee, -representing West Philadelphia Division 162, Quaker City Division 204, -Camden Division 170, and Wilmington Division 224. Brother J. H. Mooney, -of Division 162, calls the meeting to order and in a neat little speech -welcomes the excursionists home. Fine music is rendered by the -Philharmonic Quintet, composed of the following gentlemen: Ed. Volmer, -J. R. Whitely, Sol. Ecksteine, Chas. Genso, and Robert Crawford, ably -led by Prof. Jo. Allen. Brothers Wyman, Sheppard, and Shaw are called -upon for remarks relative to the trip, and they respond with short -addresses. Songs and recitations are given by J. Conlin and Mr. and Mrs. -Hughes, and the guests then repair to the basement banquet hall, where -refreshments are served. At 7.30 the meeting adjourns, adieus are -spoken, and we go to our several homes, feeling that we have had an -extraordinary picnic in the thirty-two days of our outing, and hoping to -meet again at the first anniversary of the Golden Gate Club one year -hence. - -[THE END.] - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -give satistion=> give satisfaction {pg 3} - -in these mighty hils=> in these mighty hills {pg 122} - -Hank claims=> Hanks claims {pg 151} - -will ever forget out trip=> will ever forget our trip {pg 158} - -laughter could be hear=> laughter could be heard {pg 169} - - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Nine Thousand Miles On A Pullman Train, by -Milton Shaw - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NINE THOUSAND MILES *** - -***** This file should be named 51341-0.txt or 51341-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/3/4/51341/ - -Produced by Charlene Taylor, Chuck Greif, profwebs and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net -(This file was produced from images generously made -available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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M. Shaw. -</title> -<style type="text/css"> - p {margin-top:.2em;text-align:justify;margin-bottom:.2em;text-indent:4%;} - -.c {text-align:center;text-indent:0%;} - -.ditto {margin-left:1em;margin-right:1em;} - -.enlargeimage {margin: 0 0 0 0; text-align: center; border: none;} - @media print, handheld -{.enlargeimage - {display: none;} - } - -.nind {text-indent:0%;} - -.nonvis {display:inline;} - @media print, handheld - {.nonvis - {display: none;} - } - -.r {text-align:right;margin-right: 5%;} - -small {font-size: 70%;} - -big {font-size: 130%;} - - h1 {margin-top:5%;text-align:center;clear:both;} - - h2 {margin-top:4%;margin-bottom:2%;text-align:center;clear:both; - font-size:120%;} - - h3 {margin:4% auto 2% auto;text-align:center;clear:both; -font-weight:normal;font-size:100%;} - - hr {width:90%;margin:2em auto 2em auto;clear:both;color:black;} - - hr.full {width: 50%;margin:5% auto 5% auto;border:4px double gray;} - - table {margin-top:2%;margin-bottom:2%;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;border:none;} - - body{margin-left:4%;margin-right:6%;background:#ffffff;color:black;font-family:"Times New Roman", serif;font-size:medium;} - -a:link {background-color:#ffffff;color:blue;text-decoration:none;} - - link {background-color:#ffffff;color:blue;text-decoration:none;} - -a:visited {background-color:#ffffff;color:purple;text-decoration:none;} - -a:hover {background-color:#ffffff;color:#FF0000;text-decoration:underline;} - -.smcap {font-variant:small-caps;font-size:100%;} - - img {border:none;} - -.caption {font-weight:bold;font-size:75%;} - -.figcenter {margin-top:3%;margin-bottom:3%;clear:both; -margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;text-align:center;text-indent:0%;} - @media print, handheld - {.figcenter - {page-break-before: avoid;} - } - -.pagenum {font-style:normal;position:absolute; -left:95%;font-size:55%;text-align:right;color:gray; -background-color:#ffffff;font-variant:normal;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none;text-indent:0em;} -@media print, handheld -{.pagenum - {display: none;} - } - -</style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -Project Gutenberg's Nine Thousand Miles On A Pullman Train, by Milton Shaw - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Nine Thousand Miles On A Pullman Train - An Account of a Tour of Railroad Conductors From - Philadelphia to the Pacific Coast and Return - -Author: Milton Shaw - -Release Date: March 2, 2016 [EBook #51341] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NINE THOUSAND MILES *** - - - - -Produced by Charlene Taylor, Chuck Greif, profwebs and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net -(This file was produced from images generously made -available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/cover_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="334" height="500" alt="Image not available: cover" /></a> -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border: 2px black solid;margin:auto auto;max-width:50%; -padding:1%;"> -<tr><td> -<p class="c">Some typographical errors have been corrected; -<a href="#transcrib">a list follows the text</a>.</p> - -<p class="c"><a href="#INDEX_TO_ILLUSTRATIONS">List of Illustrations</a><br /> <span class="nonvis">(In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers] -clicking on this symbol <img class="enlargeimage" src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" alt="Image not available: " title="" height="14" width="18" />, -or directly on the image, -will bring up a larger version of the illustration.)</span></p> - -<p class="c">(etext transcriber's note)</p></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="front" id="front"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/fronits_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/fronits_sml.jpg" width="318" height="487" alt="Image not available: Yours truly, - -MM Shaw" /></a> -</div> - -<h1> -Nine Thousand Miles<br /><br /> -On A Pullman Train<br /><br /> -<small>AN ACCOUNT<br /> -<small>OF A</small><br /> -Tour of Railroad Conductors<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">From Philadelphia</span><br /> -<small>TO THE</small><br /> -<span class="smcap">Pacific Coast and Return</span></small></h1> - -<p class="c">By M. M. SHAW<br /> -<br /> -<small><span class="smcap">Philadelphia<br /> -Allen, Lane & Scott, Printers and Publishers</span><br /> -Nos. 1211-13 Clover Street<br /> -1898</small> -<br /><br /> -Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1898,<br /> -BY M. M. SHAW,<br /> -In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.<br /> -<br /><br /><br />TO THE TRUE AND LOYAL WOMEN<br /> -OF OUR PARTY,<br /> -THE BELOVED AND CHERISHED COMPANIONS<br /> -OF OUR HEARTHS AND HOMES,<br /> -THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_001" id="page_001"></a>{1}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="INDEX_TO_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="INDEX_TO_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td valign="top">M. M. Shaw</td><td align="right"><a href="#front">Frontispiece.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">George W. Boyd, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Pennsylvania Railroad</td><td align="right">Face page <a href="#page_006">6</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Broad Street Station, Philadelphia </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_012">12</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">A Pullman Dining Car </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_016">16</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">C. E. Wyman, Chairman of the Committee </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_018">18</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">A Pullman Sleeping Car </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_022">22</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Sang Hollow on the Conemaugh, Pennsylvania Railroad </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_028">28</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">At Effingham, Illinois </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_034">34</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Leaving Longview Junction, Texas </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_034">34</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">At Fort Worth, Texas </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_036">36</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">O. H. Bacon, Conductor Texas and Pacific Railway </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_038">38</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">A Group at Van Horn, Texas </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_040">40</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Tom McDonald and Fred Beach </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_040">40</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Myrtle Taylor on a Bronco </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_042">42</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Residence of Jacob Hand, Sierra Blanca, Texas </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_042">42</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Flooded District, Alfalfa, Texas </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_052">52</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Wrecked by Train Robbers on Southern Pacific Railway </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_052">52</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">William J. Maxwell, of the Committee </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_056">56</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Col. Si Ryan </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_060">60</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Arizona Landscape </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_066">66</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">“Yuma Bill,” Indian Chief at Yuma, over 100 years old </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_066">66</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">The California Poppy </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_068">68</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">A Cluster of Navel Oranges, California </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_072">72</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Winter in Southern California </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_074">74</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Brookside Avenue, Redlands, California </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_076">76</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">San Gabriel Mission, California </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_078">78</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Giant Palms on the road to San Gabriel </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_078">78</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">An Avenue in Pasadena, California </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_080">80</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Great Cable Incline, Mt. Lowe Railway </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_082">82</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Echo Mountain House and Car on the 48 Per Cent. Grade, Mt. Lowe Railway </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_084">84</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Mt. Lowe Railway, California </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_086">86</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Circular Bridge, Mt. Lowe Railway, California </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_088">88</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Ye Alpine Tavern, Mt. Lowe, California </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_090">90</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">T. S. C. Lowe </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_092">92</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">George W. Brown, of the Committee </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_098">98</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">New Cliff House and Seal Rocks, San Francisco, Cal. </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_102">102</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Parapet, Sutro Heights, San Francisco, Cal.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_002" id="page_002"></a>{2}</span></td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_104">104</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">John H. Reagan, of the Committee</td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_112">112</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Hercules’ Pillars, Columbia River, Oregon </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_120">120</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">The Columbia River </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_124">124</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">J. P. O’Brien, Superintendent Rail Lines, Oregon Railroad and Navigation Company </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_126">126</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Mt. Adams, Washington </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_128">128</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Mt. St. Helens, from Portland, Oregon </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_128">128</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Multnomah Falls, Oregon </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_130">130</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Along the Columbia River </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_132">132</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">C Street, Tacoma, Washington </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_134">134</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Bridge, Point Defiance Park, Tacoma, Washington </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_134">134</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Latourelle Falls, Oregon </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_136">136</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">The Hobo Passenger </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_138">138</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Crossing Columbia River on the “Tacoma” </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_138">138</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Elevator A, Tacoma, Washington </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_140">140</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Shore of Lake Pend d’Oreille at Hope, Idaho </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_140">140</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Spokane Falls, Spokane, Washington </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_142">142</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Spokane, Washington </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_142">142</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">W. B. Hale, Conductor Northern Pacific Railway </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_144">144</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">“Dan,” Salt Lake City Railroad Station, Utah </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_154">154</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Grave of Brigham Young, Salt Lake City, Utah </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_154">154</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">The Mormon Temple and Square, Salt Lake City, Utah </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_160">160</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Chas. E. Hooper, of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_166">166</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Bathing Pool at Glenwood Springs, Colorado </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_168">168</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">In the Pool at Glenwood Springs </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_168">168</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Waiter W. Terry, of the Committee </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_174">174</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Colonel and Mrs. Mitchell at Marshall Pass </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_178">178</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">The “Committee” at Marshall Pass </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_178">178</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">The Royal Gorge and the Hanging Bridge, Grand Cañon of the Arkansas </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_182">182</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Ascent of Pike’s Peak by Manitou and Pike’s Peak Railroad (cog wheel) </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_184">184</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Gateway to the Garden of the Gods, Colorado; Pike’s Peak in the Distance </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_186">186</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">On Pike’s Peak—Altitude, 14,147 feet </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_188">188</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Bride and Groom at Balance Rock, Garden of the Gods, Colorado </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_190">190</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Manitou Springs, Colorado </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_192">192</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Bachelors and Burros in the Garden of the Gods </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_196">196</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">“Who are we? Who are we? P. P. C.! Cooks, Waiters, and Porters of the O. R. C.!” </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_202">202</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">The “232.” McCook, Nebraska </td><td align="right"><span class="ditto">“</span><a href="#page_202">202</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_003" id="page_003"></a>{3}</span></p> - -<h2>INTRODUCTION.</h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> writer is not sure that this work will give satisfaction to his many -friends who have asked for it; the experience of one is not the -experience of all, and many incidents will be remembered, undoubtedly, -by different members of the party that are not mentioned in these pages, -from the fact that they are unknown to the narrator, not having come -under his observation. The difficulty lies in producing an account of -our trip from personal notes that will meet the expectation of all. The -chief object of this book is to furnish interesting information relative -to the party’s whereabouts from day to day, giving the names of many -kind friends who did so much toward making our journey an interesting -and happy one, and who will ever be remembered with feelings of the -highest regard by each member of the party. The writer has no apology to -offer to critics. Geographical inaccuracies and grammatical -inconsistencies can either be accepted or overlooked, at the pleasure of -the reader, whom the author hopes will be charitable enough to believe -that he believes what he has written, whether it is true or not.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_004" id="page_004"></a>{4}</span></p> - -<p>Shortly after the meeting of the twenty-fifth session of the Grand -Division of the Order of Railway Conductors at Atlanta, Ga., in May, -1895, a few of the Pennsylvania Railroad conductors running into Broad -Street Station, Philadelphia, got together and started a movement toward -the organization of a party to visit the twenty-sixth session, in Los -Angeles, Cal., in May, 1897. Mr. Chas. E. Wyman was chosen president and -manager and Mr. Wm. J. Maxwell secretary and treasurer of the club. It -was known as the <i>Pennsylvania Railroad Conductors’ Excursion</i>. Meetings -were held from time to time to complete the organization, formulate -plans, and perfect arrangements, and George H. Holgate, Esq., president -of the Association of American Inventors, kindly gave the use of his -large, comfortable office in the Betz Building, on Broad Street, -Philadelphia, for this purpose. A friend of Manager Wyman designed an -unique and handsome card, which was submitted to Stephen Greene, Esq., -who lithographed and printed several thousand and generously presented -them to the excursion. The committee called at the clothing -establishment of Wanamaker & Brown, Sixth and Market Streets, to -purchase tourist caps for use of the party on the trip, and were -liberally provided with all they wanted, free of cost, by the kind and -generous members of the firm. The officials of the Pennsylvania Railroad -looked with favor upon the scheme, and it was largely due to their -kindly efforts and influence that the excursion was such a grand -success.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_005" id="page_005"></a>{5}</span> Mr. George W. Boyd, Assistant General Passenger Agent, -interested himself greatly in our trip, and under his direction the -Tourist Department outlined and arranged the itinerary, which was -printed in neat form and presented to the party by Allen, Lane & Scott. -This itinerary is published in these pages in its original form, and -while the route was adhered to it will be noticed we ran about three -days late, delayed by a washout east of El Paso.</p> - -<p>Many of the illustrations in this book were prepared from photographs -taken by members of the party, also from photographs kindly presented to -the author by Prof. T. S. C. Lowe. We are also indebted to the Oregon -Railroad and Navigation Company, Northern Pacific Railway Company, and -Denver and Rio Grande Railroad Company for illustrations of scenery -along their lines.</p> - -<p>Our treatment by officers of the Pullman Company was extremely -satisfactory, their generosity being highly appreciated. To one and all -of these gentlemen who so kindly contributed toward our happiness and -pleasure the Pennsylvania Railroad Conductors’ Excursion gives, through -the writer, a rousing vote of thanks.</p> - -<p class="r"> -M. M. S.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_006" id="page_006"></a>{6}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing006_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing006_sml.jpg" width="246" height="314" alt="Image not available: GEO. W. BOYD, ASSISTANT GENERAL PASSENGER AGENT, -PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD COMPANY." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">GEO. W. BOYD, ASSISTANT GENERAL PASSENGER AGENT,<br /> -PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD COMPANY.</span> -</div> - -<p class="c"> -<span class="smcap">Detailed Time-Table and Condensed</span><br /> -<br /> -ITINERARY<br /> -<br /> -OF THE<br /> -<br /> -PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD CONDUCTORS’ TOUR<br /> -TO THE GOLDEN GATE.<br /> -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left" colspan="5">Miles<br /> -from<br /> -Philad’a.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Saturday</span>, May 8, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Pennsylvania Railroad.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Philadelphia, Pa.</td><td align="left">(<i>Eastern time</i>)</td><td align="left">10.30</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">354</td><td align="left">Ar. Pittsburgh, Pa.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">8.15</td><td align="center">P.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">“ Pittsburgh, Pa.</td><td align="left">(<i>Central time</i>)</td><td align="left">7.15</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Pennsylvania Lines.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Pittsburgh, Pa.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">7.30</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Sunday</span>, May 9, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Pennsylvania Lines.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">728</td><td align="left">Ar. Indianapolis, Ind.</td><td align="left">(<i>Central time</i>)</td><td align="left">7.00</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Vandalia Line.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Indianapolis, Ind.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">7.10</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">968</td><td align="left">Ar. St. Louis, Mo.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">1.40</td><td align="center">P.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via St. Louis, Iron Mountain & Southern Railway.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. St. Louis, Mo.</td><td align="left">(<i>Central time</i>)</td><td align="left">8.15</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Monday</span>, May 10, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via St. Louis, Iron Mountain & Southern Railway.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1313</td><td align="left">Ar. Little Rock, Ark.</td><td align="left">(<i>Central time</i>)</td><td align="left">7.10</td><td align="left">A. M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1458</td><td align="left">“ Texarkana, Tex.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">12.35</td><td align="center">P.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Texas & Pacific Railway.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Texarkana, Tex.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">1.05</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1711</td><td align="left">Ar. Fort Worth, Tex.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">9.24</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Tuesday</span>, May 11, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Texas & Pacific Railway.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">2326</td><td align="left">Ar. El Paso, Tex.</td><td align="left">(<i>Central time</i>)</td><td align="left">9.25</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">(At El Paso Central time changes to Pacific time, two hours slower.)<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_008" id="page_008"></a>{8}</span></td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Wednesday</span>, May 12, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Southern Pacific Company.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. El Paso, Tex.</td><td align="left">(<i>Pacific time</i>)</td><td align="left">8.00</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">2414</td><td align="left">Ar. Deming, N. M.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">11.00</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">2638</td><td align="left">“ Tucson, N. M.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">7.00</td><td align="center">P.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Thursday</span>, May 13, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Southern Pacific Company.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">3008</td><td align="left">Ar. Indio, Cal.</td><td align="left">(<i>Pacific time</i>)</td><td align="left">7.00</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">3138</td><td align="left">“ Los Angeles, Cal.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">12.00</td><td align="center">NOON.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Train to be sidetracked for occupancy.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Monday</span>, May 17, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Southern Pacific Company.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">3138</td><td align="left">Lv. Los Angeles, Cal.</td><td align="left">(<i>Pacific time</i>)</td><td align="left">2.00</td><td align="center">P.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Tuesday</span>, May 18, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Southern Pacific Company.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">3585</td><td align="left">Ar. San Francisco, Cal.</td><td align="left">(<i>Pacific time</i>)</td><td align="left">10.00</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Thursday</span>, May 20, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Southern Pacific Company.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. San Francisco, Cal.</td><td align="left">(<i>Pacific time</i>)</td><td align="left">7.00</td><td align="center">P.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Saturday</span>, May 22, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Southern Pacific Company.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">4357</td><td align="left">Ar. Portland, Ore.</td><td align="left">(<i>Pacific time</i>)</td><td align="left">7.00</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Train to be sidetracked for occupancy.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Sunday</span>, May 23, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Northern Pacific Railway.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Portland, Ore.</td><td align="left">(<i>Pacific time</i>)</td><td align="left">8.45</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">4501</td><td align="left">Ar. Tacoma, Wash.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">2.00</td><td align="center">P.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Train to be sidetracked for occupancy.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Tacoma, Wash.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">10.30</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">(At Hope Pacific time changes to Mountain time, one hour faster.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Stop at Spokane two hours.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Tuesday</span>, May 25, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Northern Pacific Railway.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">5283</td><td align="left">Ar. Helena, Mont.</td><td align="left">(<i>Mountain time</i>)</td><td align="left">7.00</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Great Northern Railway.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_009" id="page_009"></a>{9}</span></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Helena, Mont.</td><td align="left">(<i>Mountain time</i>)</td><td align="left">12.00</td><td align="center">NOON.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">5355</td><td align="left">Ar. Butte, Mont.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">3.00</td><td align="center">P.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Train to be sidetracked for occupancy.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Montana Union Railway.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Butte, Mont.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">10.00</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">5362</td><td align="left">Ar. Silver Bow, Mont.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">10.20</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Oregon Short Line Railroad.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Silver Bow, Mont.</td><td align="left">(<i>Mountain time</i>)</td><td align="left">10.30</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Wednesday</span>, May 26, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Ogden Short Line Railroad.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">5752</td><td align="left">Ar. Ogden, Utah</td><td align="left">(<i>Mountain time</i>)</td><td align="left">11.00</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Rio Grande Western Railway.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Ogden, Utah</td><td align="left">(<i>Mountain time</i>)</td><td align="left">11.00</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">5789</td><td align="left">Ar. Salt Lake City, Utah</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">12.00</td><td align="center">NOON.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Train to be sidetracked for occupancy.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Thursday</span>, May 27, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Rio Grande Western Railway.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Salt Lake City, Utah</td><td align="left">(<i>Mountain time</i>)</td><td align="left">9.00</td><td align="center">P.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Friday</span>, May 28, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">6080</td><td align="left">Ar. Grand Junction, Col.</td><td align="left">(<i>Mountain time</i>)</td><td align="left">8.30</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Denver & Rio Grande Railroad.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Grand Junction, Col.</td><td align="left">(<i>Mountain time</i>)</td><td align="left">9.00</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">6169</td><td align="left">Ar. Glenwood Springs, Col.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">12.00</td><td align="center">NOON.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Glenwood Springs, Col.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">2.00</td><td align="center">P.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Ar. Minturn, Col.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">4.10</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">“Leadville, Col.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">6.00</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Leadville, Col.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">6.40</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">6319</td><td align="left">Ar. Salida, Col.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">8.30</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Saturday</span>, May 29, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Denver & Rio Grande Railroad.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">By D. & R. G. special train.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Salida, Col.</td><td align="left">(<i>Mountain time</i>)</td><td align="left">8.00</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Ar. Marshall Pass, Col.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">9.40</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Marshall Pass, Col.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">10.20</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">6369</td><td align="left">Ar. Salida, Col.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">12.00</td><td align="center">NOON.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Salida, Col.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">1.00</td><td align="center">P.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Ar. Royal Gorge, Col.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">2.45</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">6511</td><td align="center">“ Colorado Springs, Col.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">6.00</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Train to be sidetracked for occupancy.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_010" id="page_010"></a>{10}</span></td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Sunday</span>, May 30, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">At Colorado Springs and Manitou.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Monday</span>, May 31, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Denver & Rio Grande Railroad.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Colorado Springs, Col.</td><td align="left">(<i>Mountain time</i>)</td><td align="left">2.00</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">6586</td><td align="left">Ar. Denver, Col.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">6.00</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Train to be sidetracked for occupancy.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Tuesday</span>, June 1, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Wednesday</span>, June 2, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">At Denver.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Thursday</span>, June 3, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Burlington Route.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Denver, Col.</td><td align="left">(<i>Mountain time</i>)</td><td align="left">12.01</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">(At McCook, Neb., Mountain time changes to Central time, one hour faster.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Ar. Lincoln, Neb.</td><td align="left">(<i>Central time</i>)</td><td align="left">3.05</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">7124</td><td align="center">“ Omaha, Neb.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">5.00</td><td align="center">P.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Omaha, Neb.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">6.30</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Friday</span>, June 4, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Burlington Route.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">7632</td><td align="left">Ar. Chicago, Ill.</td><td align="left">(<i>Central time</i>) 9.15</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Pennsylvania Lines.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Chicago, Ill.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">5.40</td><td align="center">P.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5"><span class="smcap">Saturday</span>, June 5, 1897.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Pennsylvania Lines.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">8100</td><td align="left">Ar. Pittsburg, Pa.</td><td align="left">(<i>Central time</i>)</td><td align="left">6.10</td><td align="center">A.M.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">“ Pittsburg, Pa.</td><td align="left">(<i>Eastern time</i>)</td><td align="left">7.10</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">Via Pennsylvania Railroad.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Lv. Pittsburg, Pa.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">7.15</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">8454</td><td align="left">“ Philadelphia, Pa.</td><td align="center">“</td><td align="left">4.20</td><td align="center">P.M.</td></tr> -</table> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_011" id="page_011"></a>{11}</span></p> - -<h2>LIST OF PASSENGERS.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. G. W. Brown</span></td><td align="right">Philadelphia, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. G. W. Brown</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. P. J. Barrett</span></td><td align="right">Bristol, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Miss Anna S. Barrett</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. J. N. Climenson</span></td><td align="right">Philadelphia, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. J. N. Climenson</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. I. M. Cohee</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. I. M. Cohee</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. J. B. Crispen</span></td><td align="right">Renovo, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. James Dougherty</span></td><td align="right">Trenton, N.J.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. J. Dougherty</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. T. J. Denniston</span></td><td align="right">Jersey City, N. J.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. G. W. Dale</span></td><td align="right">Philadelphia, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. G. W. Dale</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. R. T. Elder</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. R. T. Elder</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. R. J. Foulon</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. R. J. Foulon</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. C. E. Foster</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. C. E. Foster</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. J. W. Goff</span></td><td align="right">Camden, N. J.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. J. W. Goff</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. T. B. Gilliland</span></td><td align="right">Harrisburg, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. T. B. Gilliland</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. M. M. Houston</span></td><td align="right">Norristown, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. M. M. Houston</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. W. A. Haas</span></td><td align="right">Allegheny City, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. H. R. Haefner</span></td><td align="right">Columbia, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. H. R. Haefner</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. S. W. Horner</span></td><td align="right">Philadelphia, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. S. W. Horner</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. S. N. Kilgore</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. S. N. Kilgore</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. T. J. McKernan</span></td><td align="right">Jersey City, N. J.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. T. J. McKernan</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. E. A. Kalkman</span></td><td align="right">Baltimore, Md.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. E. A. Kalkman</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. Hugh Leary</span></td><td align="right">Norristown, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. Hugh Leary</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. J. T. Layfield</span></td><td align="right">Wilmington, Del.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. J. T. Layfield</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. J. M. Matthews</span></td><td align="right">Norristown, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. J. M. Matthews</span></td><td align="right"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_012" id="page_012"></a>{12}</span> “</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. W. J. Maxwell</span></td><td align="right">Philadelphia, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. W. J. Maxwell</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. J. H. Moore</span></td><td align="right">Manasquan, N. J.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. J. H. Moore</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. C. J. McCarty</span></td><td align="right">Columbia, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. C. R. Mattson</span>, M.D.</td><td align="right">Philadelphia, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. C. R. Mattson</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. W. H. Morris</span></td><td align="right">Wilmington, Del.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. W. H. Morris</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. Roland Mitchell</span></td><td align="right">Baltimore, Md.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. Roland Mitchell</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. W. H. Post</span></td><td align="right">Philadelphia, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Miss Ella L. Post</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. J. A. Reilly</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. J. A. Reilly</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. J. H. Reagan</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. J. J. Restein</span></td><td align="right">Delmar, Del.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. C. L. Springer</span></td><td align="right">Philadelphia, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. C. L. Springer</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. L. E. Sheppard</span></td><td align="right">Camden, N. J.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. L. E. Sheppard</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. M. M. Shaw</span></td><td align="right">West Chester, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. M. M. Shaw</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. C. H. Sloane</span></td><td align="right">Philadelphia, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. J. G. Schuler</span></td><td align="right">Pittsburgh, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. C. F. Smith</span></td><td align="right">York, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. C. F. Smith</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. D. R. Sparks</span></td><td align="right">Camden, N. J.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. D. R. Sparks</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. W. W. Terry</span></td><td align="right">Philadelphia, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. W. W. Terry</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. H. H. Taylor</span></td><td align="right">Trenton, N. J.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. C. E. Waddington</span></td><td align="right">Philadelphia, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. Oscar Williams</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. C. E. Wyman</span></td><td align="right">Moores, Pa.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. C. E. Wyman</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. H. L. Wilson</span></td><td align="right">Glassboro, N. J.</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mrs. H. L. Wilson</span></td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c">EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE.</p> - -<p class="c"> -<span class="smcap">C. E. Wyman</span>, <i>President and Manager</i>.<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 3em;"><span class="smcap">Wm. J. Maxwell</span>, <i>Secretary and Treasurer</i>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><span class="smcap">George W. Brown</span>, <span class="smcap">John H. Reagan</span>,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 7em;"><span class="smcap">Walter W. Terry</span>.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_013" id="page_013"></a>{13}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing012_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing012_sml.jpg" width="372" height="394" alt="Image not available: BROAD STREET STATION, PHILADELPHIA." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">BROAD STREET STATION, PHILADELPHIA.</span> -</div> - -<h2><span class="smcap">Pennsylvania Railroad Conductors’<br /> -Excursion to California.</span></h2> - -<h3>SATURDAY, MAY 8th, 1897.</h3> - -<p>The hands on the large clock that denotes the standard time in the great -corridor of Broad Street Station, Philadelphia, point to the hour 10 A. -M.; an unusual commotion is noticed in the mammoth train shed, which in -any hour of the day or night is filled with trains loading and -discharging their cargoes of human freight, ever presenting a scene of -hustling, bustling activity. The unusual commotion referred to is caused -by the departure of the <i>Pennsylvania Railroad Conductors’ Excursion to -California</i>. Fully one thousand friends and relatives have gathered on -the extensive train platform to see them off; thirty minutes of -promiscuous kissing, hugging, tears, smiles, hand shaking, and -good-byes, then “all aboard,” and at 10.30 A. M. the five-car vestibule -train rolls out over the elevated tracks bound for a journey of 9,000 -miles. The notebook crank and the kodak fiend are aboard, and it is -hoped that it will not be regretted that they have come. The kodak -fiends are Bros. Ed. Foster, Joe Ristein, and Billy Haas, who succeed in -getting some very good snaps at the train before starting, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_014" id="page_014"></a>{14}</span> Lord -only knows what else was snapped at, for the snapping was kept up almost -continually for the next thirty-one days. The notebook crank is the -writer, who, with the ever-present notebook in hand, starts in after the -train starts to make an inventory of the outfit.</p> - -<p>The first person encountered is the good-looking and gentlemanly train -conductor, W. E. Bostick, who volunteers the information that the train -is running as second No. 25 over the Philadelphia Division, Philadelphia -to Harrisburg; that it gives him great pleasure to run the train, for he -considers it a mark of honor. We are drawn by P. R. R. engine No. 31, in -charge of Engineer J. Stroh, and fired by C. B. Lewis. Next to the -engine is parlor combined car No. 4808, with baggage end loaded with -sixty-two pieces of baggage, two barrels, and thirty-two cases of -nourishment, in charge of George H. Anderson, the colored janitor of the -conductors’ room in Broad Street Station, Philadelphia, who, because of -his well-known character for faithfulness, honesty, and good nature, is -taken along, and placed in the responsible position of baggage master -and general cork extractor. The smoking end of the car is furnished with -twelve movable parlor chairs and two tables, and the floor is covered -with Brussels carpet. The Pullman dining car “Lafayette,” in charge of -Dining-car Conductor Mr. Tom McDonald, comes next.</p> - -<p>Introducing myself to Mr. McDonald, I find him a very agreeable -gentleman, who kindly gives me what information I want, also a bill of -fare. The latter makes my mouth water in anticipation of what I may -expect when the dinner hour arrives. This is what with keen appreciation -and fast increasing appetite I read:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_015" id="page_015"></a>{15}</span></p> - -<p class="c">ORDER OF RAILWAY CONDUCTORS’ SPECIAL.<br /> -<br /> - <i>EN ROUTE</i> TO LOS ANGELES AND RETURN.<br /> -<br /> - Pullman Dining Car Service.<br /> -<br /> - May 8th, 1897.</p> - -<p class="c"> -<br /> -DINNER.<br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 3em;"><span class="smcap">Ox Joints.</span> <span class="smcap">Consomme.</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 3.5em;"><span class="smcap">Cucumbers.</span> <span class="smcap">Olives.</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 4em;"><span class="smcap">Boiled Halibut.</span> <span class="smcap">Egg Sauce.</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 5.5em;"><span class="smcap">Parisienne Potatoes.</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><span class="smcap">Boiled Leg of Mutton.</span> <span class="smcap">Caper Sauce.</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 4em;"><span class="smcap">Apple Fritters.</span> <span class="smcap">Wine Sauce.</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 5em;"><span class="smcap">Prime Roast Beef.</span></span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Roast Long Island Spring Duck.</span> <span class="smcap">Apple Sauce.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 3.5em;"><span class="smcap">Mashed Potatoes.</span> <span class="smcap">Boiled New Potatoes.</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><span class="smcap">Boiled Onions.</span> <span class="smcap">Beets.</span> <span class="smcap">New Green Peas.</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 7.5em;"><span class="smcap">Tomato Salad au Mayonnaise.</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 4em;"><span class="smcap">Bread Pudding.</span> <span class="smcap">Cognac Sauce.</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 5em;"><span class="smcap">Ice Cream.</span> <span class="smcap">Preserved Fruits.</span></span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Assorted Cake.</span> <span class="smcap">Marmalade.</span> <span class="smcap">Dry Canton Ginger.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 3.5em;"><span class="smcap">English and Graham Wafers.</span> <span class="smcap">Fruit.</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><span class="smcap">Roquefort and Edam Cheese.</span> <span class="smcap">Bent’s Biscuit.</span></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 4em;"><span class="smcap">Café Noir.</span></span><br /> -</p> - -<p>“Mr. McDonald,” says I, “I do not doubt your ability to feed us as per -bill of promise, but I am curious to know where you keep all this -material and how you prepare it for the table?” “It is easily explained; -I will show you,” is the reply. “Built here in this end of the car is a -large cupboard refrigerator in which can be stored a large amount of -stuff, underneath the car are two large ice chests in which can be -placed several hundred pounds of meat, and on top of the car you will -find a large tank containing many gallons of water. In the other end of -the car you will find the kitchen, where the victuals are prepared, and -the sideboard containing the dishes and other<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a>{16}</span> ware belonging to the -dining car. If it were necessary to do so, we could stock this car with -material enough at one time to last a party of one hundred persons one -week; but ordinarily we lay in but a limited amount, as provisions or -other material is furnished as needed from the Pullman supply stations -<i>en route</i>, thus we can always have it good and fresh.”</p> - -<p>“You seem to have lots of help,” I remarked, as I noticed nine or ten -neat, gentlemanly-looking mulattoes in their snow-white coats and aprons -bustling about the car.</p> - -<p>“Yes, I am pleased to say that you can expect excellent service from the -cooks and waiters in this car. Mr. Martin and Mr. Bostwick, of the -Pullman palace car service, have kindly furnished me with men of which -it can be said there are no better in the service.” “Can you give me -their names?” “Certainly; the cooks are: <i>Chief</i>, R. W. Moore; -<i>assistants</i>, H. F. Robinson, T. Allen, F. L. Litt; <i>waiters</i>, W. Hill, -A. Beard, O. Fisher, C. Coleman, C. Jackson. We have ten tables in the -car, each table seats four, which enables us to accommodate forty -persons at a time. Each waiter has been assigned his place, knows just -what he has to do, and while there may at times be a little delay in -filling orders, there is never any confusion.”</p> - -<p>“There is another thing,” continues Mr. McDonald, “which no doubt you -will notice, and that is our strict adherence to the law of cleanliness. -If there is one rule of the dining-car service more imperative than -another, it is the one that declares that everything must be clean. The -coats and aprons of the waiters must be pure and spotless as an angel’s -robe, napkins and table linen must</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing016_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing016_sml.jpg" width="318" height="473" alt="Image not available: A PULLMAN DINING CAR." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A PULLMAN DINING CAR.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_017" id="page_017"></a>{17}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">never be used the second time, no matter how little soiled. This is a -rule that at all times must be rigidly enforced, and it would cost me my -situation to allow it to be violated.”</p> - -<p>Thanking Mr. McDonald for his kind information, I turn my back on the -“Lafayette” for the time being, entirely convinced that a first-class -fully-equipped dining car is the greatest wonder that ever went on -wheels.</p> - -<p>Next to the “Lafayette” I find the sleeper “Marco.” I also find as I -emerge from the narrow passageway, which is an unavoidable nuisance in -all Pullman cars, the genial, good-natured, and good-looking -sleeping-car conductor, Miles H. Suter, who has charge of the three -Pullman sleepers that are on the train.</p> - -<p>“Mr. Suter,” I said, “the Pullman people have given us a fine train.”</p> - -<p>“Yes,” he replied. “There are no more substantial or more comfortable -cars in the Pullman service than these. In one of them a person can ride -many hundreds of miles and not become fatigued. You will find the motion -of these cars very agreeable and easy. They were selected for this trip -because of this admirable qualification, and as far as ease and comfort -goes I predict for your party a very pleasant tour. Another thing,” -continued Mr. Suter, “I have already noticed, which will contribute much -to your comfort, and which is lacking in most excursion parties, is that -you have plenty of room, and so are not crowded. The gentlemen who have -arranged the excursion deserve a great deal of credit for the excellent -judgment they have exercised in not having too many or too few, but just -enough. There are no vacancies and no one is crowded. It was also wise -to have no<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_018" id="page_018"></a>{18}</span> children along, for little folks often need attention that -cannot be given them on a journey of this kind, and their mothers need -rest instead of the worriment that comes from having the care of little -ones on their hands.”</p> - -<p>“Mr. Suter,” I remarked, as a genteel colored man in a neat uniform come -through the car, “it must be a very laborious task when night comes for -one man to convert all these seats into beds, and in the morning change -them back again.”</p> - -<p>“Yes, it seems like a great deal of work, but an experienced porter will -soon make the change. I have three good men, one to each car, and you -have only to watch Dennis Jackson in the ‘Marco,’ Dick Pettus in the -‘Milton,’ or George Custis in the ‘Orchis,’ making up the berths, to be -convinced that by a man who understands the business the work is more -quickly and easily accomplished than one would suppose possible. -Everything must be kept clean and tidy, pillow-cases and sheets changed -daily, and towels used but once. Every time a towel is used a clean one -takes its place. Cleanliness is an important rule in the Pullman -service, and we are obliged to strictly enforce it.”</p> - -<p>Thanking Mr. Suter for his kind information I turn my attention to the -occupants of the car. State room A is occupied by Conductors Suter and -McDonald.</p> - -<p>Section 1 by Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Horner. Brother Horner is a member of -West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the New York -Division. Mrs. Horner is a member of Erickson Division No. 5, L. A.</p> - -<p>Section 2 by Colonel and Mrs. John T. Layfield. Brother Layfield is -secretary and treasurer of Wilmington Division No. 224, and a conductor -on the Delaware<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_019" id="page_019"></a>{19}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing018_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing018_sml.jpg" width="294" height="385" alt="Image not available: C. E. WYMAN, CHAIRMAN OF THE COMMITTEE." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">C. E. WYMAN, CHAIRMAN OF THE COMMITTEE.</span> -</div> - -<p>Division; he served on the staff of Governor Benjamin Biggs of Delaware -several years ago, thus earning the title of colonel.</p> - -<p>Section 3 by Mr. and Mrs. M. M. Shaw. Brother Shaw is P. C. C. of West -Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the Central Division.</p> - -<p>Section 4 by Mr. and Mrs. Charles E. Wyman. Brother Wyman is a member of -Wilmington Division No. 224, and a conductor on the Maryland Division; -he is president and manager of the excursion and has worked to make it a -success.</p> - -<p>Section 5 by Mr. and Mrs. John A Reilly. Brother Reilly is a member of -West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the Maryland -Division. Mrs. Reilly is a member of Erickson Division No. 5, L. A.</p> - -<p>Section 6 by Mr. and Mrs. William J. Maxwell. Brother Maxwell is a -member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the New -York Division; he is secretary and treasurer of 162, also of the -excursion, and works hard in the interest of the same. Mrs. Maxwell is a -member of Erickson Division No. 5, L. A.</p> - -<p>Section 7 by Mr. and Mrs. Charles L. Springer. Brother Springer is a -member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the -Philadelphia Division. Mrs. Springer is a member of Erickson Division -No. 5, L. A.</p> - -<p>Section 8 by Mr. and Mrs. George W. Brown. Brother Brown is A. C. C. and -a trustee of West Philadelphia Division No. 162; he is a member of the -excursion executive committee, and has the welfare of the party at -heart. Mrs. Brown is a member and president of Erickson Division No. 5, -L. A.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_020" id="page_020"></a>{20}</span></p> - -<p>Section 9 by Mr. and Mrs. George W. Dale. Brother Dale is a member of -West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the New York -Division.</p> - -<p>Section 10 by Mr. and Mrs. Walter W. Terry. Brother Terry is a conductor -on the New York Division, and a member and trustee of West Philadelphia -Division No. 162; he is a member of the excursion executive committee, -the heavyweight of the party, whose herculean strength and sound -judgment can always be relied upon.</p> - -<p>Section 11 by Mr. and Mrs. James M. Matthews. Brother Matthews is a -member and a P. C. C. Conductor of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, -and a conductor on the Schuylkill Division.</p> - -<p>Section 12 by Brothers John H. Reagan and Charles J. McCarty. Brother -Reagan is a member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a -conductor on the Maryland Division; he is a member of the excursion -executive committee, and is keenly alive to all that pertains to the -welfare and pleasure of the party. Brother McCarty is a member of -Susquehanna Division No. 331, and a conductor on the Frederick Division. -Brothers Reagan and McCarty enjoy the freedom of bachelorship, and are -general favorites with the ladies.</p> - -<p>Drawing room 13 is occupied by Colonel and Mrs. Mitchell. Brother -Mitchell is a member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a -conductor on the Maryland Division; he is well known as a genial, -good-hearted fellow, and was given the title of “Colonel” several years -ago by his associates because of his entertaining and hospitable -disposition.</p> - -<p>Leaving the “Marco” with its happy occupants, whose comforts will be -looked after by the polite and attentive<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_021" id="page_021"></a>{21}</span> porter, Dennis Jackson, I -passed through the vestibule into the next car, “Milton,” which I found -similar in almost every respect to the “Marco.” Meeting the porter, -stalwart, good-natured Dick Pettus, I informed him that I had visited -the “Milton” in order to obtain the position and names of the occupants.</p> - -<p>“I’m not much acquainted with anybody yet,” replied Dick, “but don’t -think I’ll have any trouble, as everybody seems to be all right and -happy.”</p> - -<p>“Yes,” I answered, as I took a glance at the occupants of the car, “you -will find them all first rate people, and all right in the daytime, but -be careful and keep the doors locked and your eye on them at night, for -there are two or three in this car who are afflicted with somnambulism, -and they might walk off the train or get into the wrong berth while in -such a condition.” “Good Lord,” was Dick’s reply as he vanished into the -toilet room. I find the state room in the “Milton” reserved for a -hospital. It is hoped it will not be needed for such a purpose.</p> - -<p>Section 1 is occupied by Mr. and Mrs. J. W. Goff. Brother Goff is a -member of Camden Division No. 170, and a conductor on the West Jersey -and Seashore Division.</p> - -<p>Section 2 by Mr. and Mrs. H. L. Wilson. Brother Wilson is a member of -Camden Division No. 170, and a conductor on the West Jersey and Seashore -Division.</p> - -<p>Section 3 by Mr. and Mrs. Thomas B. Gilliland. Brother Gilliland is a -member of Dauphin Division No. 143, and a conductor on the Middle -Division. Mrs. Gilliland is a member of Keystone Division No. 47, L. A.</p> - -<p>Section 4 by Mr. and Mrs. L. E. Sheppard. Brother Sheppard is a member -of Camden Division No. 170, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_022" id="page_022"></a>{22}</span> a yardmaster on the Amboy Division. -Mrs. Sheppard is a member of Erickson Division No. 5, L. A.</p> - -<p>Section 5 by Mr. and Mrs. S. N. Kilgore. Brother Kilgore is a member of -West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the Philadelphia -Division.</p> - -<p>Section 6, Mr. and Mrs. D. R. Sparks. Brother Sparks is a member of -Camden Division No. 170, and a conductor on the West Jersey Division.</p> - -<p>Section 7 by Mr. and Mrs. E. A. Kalkman. Brother Kalkman is a member of -Capitol Division No. 378, and a conductor on the Maryland Division.</p> - -<p>Section 8 by Mr. and Mrs. W. H. Morris. Brother Morris is a member of -Wilmington Division No. 224, and a conductor on the Maryland Division.</p> - -<p>Section 9 by Mr. and Mrs. C. E. Foster. Brother Foster is a member of -West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the Maryland -Division.</p> - -<p>Section 10 by Mr. and Mrs. I. M. Cohee. Brother Cohee is a member of -Wilmington Division No. 224, and a conductor on the Maryland Division.</p> - -<p>Section 11 by Mr. and Mrs. James Dougherty. Brother Dougherty is a -member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the New -York Division.</p> - -<p>Section 12 by Mr. and Mrs. James H. Moore. Brother Moore is a member of -West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the New York -Division.</p> - -<p>Drawing room by Doctor and Mrs. C. E. Mattson. Brother Mattson is a -member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the -Maryland Division; he is a graduate of Jefferson Medical College, and -has quite an extensive practice, to which he devotes his time when not -engaged in his duties on the road.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_023" id="page_023"></a>{23}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing022_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing022_sml.jpg" width="316" height="474" alt="Image not available: A PULLMAN SLEEPING CAR." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A PULLMAN SLEEPING CAR.</span> -</div> - -<p>Brother Mattson has kindly consented to give the party his professional -care while on the trip, if needed, but it is earnestly hoped that there -will be but a very few occasions for an exercise of his professional -skill and that his labors in this direction will be light.</p> - -<p>Entering the “Orchis,” the fifth and last car on the train, I found the -polite and obliging porter, George Custis, busily engaged in the duties -pertaining to his position. His passengers all looked comfortable and -George looked happy.</p> - -<p>“George, do you like fun?” I quietly asked as he passed near me to -deposit a huge telescope valise in the state room. “Yes, sir; somewhat,” -he replied, with a questioning look in his eye. “You will have a circus -on your hands, my boy, or I fail to read the combination,” I added, as -he emerged from the state room. I had glanced down the line as I entered -the car and noticed among the occupants some well-known characters for -fun and frolic, and conclude there is a picnic in store for the porter -and passengers of the sleeper “Orchis.”</p> - -<p>Turning now to the business that brought me to the “Orchis,” I find that -the state room is occupied by Messrs. Charles Sloane and William Haas. -Brother Sloane is a member of Quaker City Division No. 204, and a -conductor on the Philadelphia Division; he is the <i>Nimrod</i> of the party, -and has come equipped with fishing tackle and rifle. He is well -acquainted with some of the best hunting grounds in the West, and is -familiar with the haunts and habits of bear and deer. Brother Haas is a -member of R. B. Hawkins Division No. 114, and a conductor on West Penn -Division; he has a kodak with which he expects to secure some -interesting views.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a>{24}</span> Brothers Sloane and Haas enjoy the privileges and -liberties of single-blessedness, but are not averse to the society of -ladies.</p> - -<p>Section 1 by Messrs. Joseph Schuler and John B. Crispen. Brother Schuler -is a member of R. B. Hawkins Division No. 114, and a conductor on the -Pittsburgh Division. Brother Crispen is secretary and treasurer of -Renovo Division No. 333, and a conductor on the Middle Division, -Philadelphia and Erie Railroad. He is a bachelor, young in years, and -inclined to be shy in the presence of the ladies.</p> - -<p>Section 2 by Messrs. T. J. Denniston and J. J. Restein. Brother -Denniston is a member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a -conductor on the New York Division; he is a bachelor, arrived at the -years of discretion, cautious and modest in his habits, an excellent -conversationalist, whose companionship is appreciated and enjoyed by -all. Brother Restein is a member of Wilmington Division No. 224, and a -conductor on the New York, Philadelphia and Norfolk Railroad. He keeps -his kodak always handy, for it is his purpose to try to obtain some of -the best views of incidents and scenery on the trip.</p> - -<p>Section 3 by Mr. and Mrs. Robert T. Elder. Brother Elder is a member of -West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the New York -Division.</p> - -<p>Section 4 by Mr. and Mrs. Hugh Leary. Brother Leary is a member of West -Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the Schuylkill -Division; he has been but a few days married, and both bride and groom -receive the congratulation of many friends in being so fortunate as to -be able to take such an enjoyable wedding<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_025" id="page_025"></a>{25}</span> tour. May sunshine, health, -and happiness be ever theirs.</p> - -<p>Section 5 by Mr. P. J. Barrett and his sister, Miss Anna S. Barrett. -Brother Barrett is a member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a -conductor on the New York Division. Being a single man, he had no wife -to accompany him, but he did the next best thing and brought his sister, -a commendable act that redounds to Brother Barrett’s credit. A man that -is good to his sister will be good to a wife. Mark it!</p> - -<p>Section 6, Mr. William H. Post and daughter, Miss Ella L. Post. Brother -Post is a member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor -on the New York Division. Mrs. Post being unable, on account of ill -health, to accompany the excursion, permitted her daughter to take her -place, a privilege the young lady highly appreciates and enjoys.</p> - -<p>Section 7, Mr. and Mrs. J. N. Climenson. Brother Climenson is a member -of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the -Philadelphia Division.</p> - -<p>Section 8, Mr. and Mrs. R. J. Foulon. Brother Foulon is a member and P. -C. C. of Quaker City Division No. 204, and a conductor on the -Philadelphia Division.</p> - -<p>Section 9, Mr. and Mrs. H. R. Haefner. Brother Haefner is C. C. of -Susquehanna Division No. 331, and a conductor on the Philadelphia -Division.</p> - -<p>Section 10, Mr. and Mrs. C. F. Smith. Brother Smith is a member of -Susquehanna Division No. 331, and a conductor on the Frederick Division.</p> - -<p>Section 11, Mr. and Mrs. T. J. McKernan. Brother McKernan is a member of -Neptune Division No. 169, and assistant passenger yardmaster at Jersey -City.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_026" id="page_026"></a>{26}</span></p> - -<p>Section 12, Mr. and Mrs. M. Houston. Brother Houston is S. C. of West -Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the Schuylkill -Division. Mrs. Houston is a member of Erickson Division No. 5, L. A.</p> - -<p>Drawing room, Messrs. C. E. Waddington, O. Williams, and H. H. Taylor. -Brother Waddington is C. C. of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a -conductor on the New York Division; Brother Williams is a member of West -Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a conductor on the Maryland Division; -Brother Taylor is a member of West Philadelphia Division No. 162, and a -conductor on the New York Division. Brothers Waddington and Williams are -unmarried, but it is not known for how long. We can only wait and see.</p> - -<p>On the rear platform stood Brakeman T. M. Tobin, who was selected by -Trainmaster Simms to accompany Conductor Bostick as flagman because of -his well-known adherence to the rules that govern this important -position. We are spinning along at about a fifty mile per hour rate of -speed, and have passed through some of the finest farming country in the -world. A “fleeting view” is all we get, but one glance is sufficient to -show us fine, substantial buildings and fences in good repair and men -busily engaged in preparing the soil for the reception of seed.</p> - -<p>We have passed the city of Lancaster and are nearing Harrisburg. Dinner -has been announced, and I retrace my steps to the dining car to find the -tables filled. Although hungry I console myself with the thought that -“there are others, lots of others,” and that in my misery I had lots of -company. In the meantime I avail myself of the opportunity of -ascertaining who our guests are,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_027" id="page_027"></a>{27}</span> as a number of gentlemen accompanied -us from Philadelphia.</p> - -<p>Glancing up the line of tables, I see Trainmasters Frank Carlisle of the -Maryland, James G. Ruth of the Central, Walter B. Gormley of the -Schuylkill, and Rees L. Hannum of the Delaware Extension and Kensington -Divisions; Yardmasters L. H. Smith, Kensington, and Anthony Hughes, -Fifteenth and Washington Avenue, and George Stults, assistant secretary -of West Philadelphia Division No. 162. They seem to be having a good -time, and are all bravely battling with Jersey mutton and Long Island -spring duck.</p> - -<p>In the centre of one of the tables is a magnificent bouquet of choice -flowers, presented to the party in Philadelphia by Messrs. Myers & -Lautman, florists, of Wyndmoor, Chestnut Hill. It is much admired by all -for its beauty and fragrance. As the tables became vacant they were -rapidly filled up by those in waiting, and it was not long until the -entire party had partaken of a dinner that was admitted by all to be -hard to beat, and a credit to Conductor McDonald and his competent and -obliging help.</p> - -<p>At 1.22 P. M. we arrived at Harrisburg, where a short stop of eight -minutes was made in changing engines. We bid adieu to our guests, -receiving from them many congratulations and compliments as to our -outfit and prospects, and best wishes for a happy trip and safe return. -The jovial trainmaster of the Central Division, as he bade us goodbye, -said: “You people could not travel in better form or fare better if you -were a party of millionaires. I am sure you will have a good time.”</p> - -<p>Whole-souled, big-hearted Frank Carlisle heaved a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_028" id="page_028"></a>{28}</span> great sigh as he -shook hands with Manager Wyman and Colonel Mitchell, and with a tear in -his eye murmured, “Boys, I wish I could go with you.” Walt Gormley and -George Stults turned their backs on the crowd to hide their emotion as -“all aboard” rang out, and the last seen of “Tony” Hughes he was -struggling in the grasp of Lew Smith and Rees Hannum, who had to hold -him to prevent him from boarding the now fast-receding train, they -knowing full well that business at Fifteenth and Washington Avenue would -suffer did they not take “Tony” back with them.</p> - -<p>It was just 1.30 P. M. when we left Harrisburg, drawn by P. R. R. engine -No. 32, handled by Engineer John Ficks and fired by Jesse Reynolds. -Conductor A. W. Black had charge of the train from Harrisburg to -Altoona, with Flagman J. S. Wagner and Brakeman A. Gable. W. Brooke -Moore, trainmaster of the Middle Division, was a guest on the train from -Harrisburg to Altoona. We arrived at Altoona 4.50 P. M. and left at 4.57 -P. M. with P. R. R. engine No. 867, Engineer F. W. Masterson, Fireman E. -W. Pugh, Conductor W. B. Chislett, Flagman Frank Bollinger, Brakemen -John Cline and C. D. Chamberlain. As guests we had C. W. Culp, -trainmaster Pittsburgh Division, and D. M. Perine, assistant master -mechanic, of Altoona, who accompanied the party to Pittsburgh.</p> - -<p>Six miles west of Altoona we reach Kittanning Point and circle round the -famous Horseshoe Curve. From this point a magnificent view of Alleghany -Mountain scenery can be seen. Nine miles further and we reach the -highest elevation on our trip across the Alleghanies and pass Cresson, a -beautiful summer resort, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_029" id="page_029"></a>{29}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing028_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing028_sml.jpg" width="537" height="322" alt="Image not available: SANG HOLLOW ON THE CONEMAUGH." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">SANG HOLLOW ON THE CONEMAUGH.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">location of the noted “Mountain House,” whose marvelous reputation for -rates and rations attracts the <i>bon-ton</i> patronage of the world.</p> - -<p>We now enter the Conemaugh country and note its picturesque hills and -mountain ridges, among which winds and wriggles the historic Conemaugh -River, which at present seems but little more than a harmless, babbling -brook; but when the rains fall and the snows melt, and this sparkling -little creek receives the waters from a hundred hills, it becomes a very -demon in its resistless fury. For eight miles we have followed this -stream and part company with it as we pass through the city of -Johnstown. Johnstown will ever remember the Conemaugh River, flowing as -it does through the very centre of the city. It is a constant menace to -the tranquillity and security of the people, and in yonder hillside -cemetery two thousand glistening tombstones bear sad and silent -testimony to the awful horrors of a Conemaugh flood.</p> - -<p>It has grown dark and we are approaching Pittsburgh. A stop is made at -East Liberty, and a delegation of brothers from R. B. Hawkins Division -No. 114 of Pittsburgh get aboard and accompany us into Pittsburgh. The -visitors kindly present each one of our party with a bouquet of roses. -We arrive at Pittsburgh 8.12 P. M. and stop for eighteen minutes, -leaving at 8.30 (7.30 Central) P. M. Time changes now from Eastern to -Central, which makes us leave at 7.30 instead of 8.30. To some of us -this is rather a perplexing thing, for we are leaving Pittsburgh -forty-two minutes before we arrive there. A number of our party are -setting their watches to Central time, I will allow mine to remain as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_030" id="page_030"></a>{30}</span> -it is, and will use Eastern time in my notes in connection with the -Standard time of whatever locality we may be in.</p> - -<p>Left Pittsburgh with P. C. C. & St. L. engine No. 183, Engineer A. F. -Winchell, Fireman O. Brown, who runs us to Dennison, Ohio, 93 miles. -Conductor L. E. Schull, Brakemen W. A. Chambers and E. S. Chambers go -with us to Columbus, Ohio, 193 miles. We almost regret that it is night, -for we desire to see the country. At 9.50 (8.50 Central) P. M. we arrive -at Steubenville, 43 miles from Pittsburgh, and stop five minutes for -water.</p> - -<p>We are now on the Pittsburgh Division of the Pennsylvania lines, -operated by the Pittsburgh, Cincinnati, Chicago and St. Louis Railway -Company. The Pittsburgh Division extends from Pittsburgh, Pa., to -Columbus, Ohio, a distance of 193 miles. Most of the party have turned -in and at 11.30 (10.30 Central), just as our train stops at Dennison, -Ohio, I prepare to undertake the novel experiment of trying to get a -night’s sleep in the berth of a Pullman car. It is a new and strange -experience to me, but I go at it to win. There is nobody in sight, but -the presence of a carload of people is felt. The long, narrow aisle of -the car is deserted, but I hesitate to exercise the privilege its -deserted condition would seem to warrant. I desire to undress, but I -wish to hide to do it, and with this end in view I crawl under the -curtains that inclose our berth. As I do so the train starts on its way -again. Mrs. S. has retired some time ago, and I think is asleep. There -is not much room for me, but I determine to make the best of it. -Balancing myself on the edge of the berth, I make a few changes in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_031" id="page_031"></a>{31}</span> my -apparel, and come very near being precipitated into the aisle while so -doing by a sudden lurch of the car as the train struck a curve. In -regaining my equilibrium I stepped upon the madam, who quietly inquired -what I was trying to do. “Only coming to bed, my dear,” I answered. “Is -that all,” she replied, “I have been watching you for some time and -thought you either had a fit or else was practicing gymnastics and using -the curtain pole for a horizontal bar.” I made no reply, I didn’t blame -her, and lay down thankful that she was the only witness to the -performance; and ours was not the only circus on the train that night; -“there were others.”</p> - -<h3>SUNDAY, MAY 9th.</h3> - -<p>Got up early, after passing rather a restless night; did not sleep very -well; finished dressing just as the train stops at Richmond, Ind., 5.55 -(4.55 Central) A. M. Go outside and find it a lovely morning. Several of -the boys are up. Have come 220 miles since I turned in last night as the -train left Dennison, Ohio.</p> - -<p>We are now on the Indianapolis Division of the Pittsburgh, Cincinnati, -Chicago and St. Louis Railway, which runs from Columbus, Ohio, to -Indianapolis, Ind., a distance of 188 miles. Upon inquiry I learn that -from Dennison to Columbus we had P. C. C. & St. L. engine No. 59, -Engineer Schultz. From Columbus to Indianapolis, P. C. C. & St. L. -engine No. 102, Engineer John Cassell, Fireman W. Mason, Conductor J. E. -Taylor, Brakemen Orvil Hyer and George Farmer. We arrive at Indianapolis -7.45 (6.45 Central) A. M., and leave there at 8.30 (7.30 Central) A. M. -on the Main Line Division<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_032" id="page_032"></a>{32}</span> of the Vandalia Line, which extends from -Indianapolis to St. Louis, a distance of 240 miles, and is controlled -and operated by the Terre Haute and Indianapolis Railroad Company. T. H. -& I. engine No. 34 is drawing us. It is called the World’s Fair engine, -having been built at Pittsburgh and placed on exhibition at Chicago -during the great exposition. It is a fine, large engine, and Engineer -Fred. Wood, who runs it, says “she is a daisy.” The fireman is G. E. -Hickman; conductor, A. J. Harshman; brakemen, J. G. McMahon and James -Edmunds. Breakfast is announced as we leave Indianapolis, and no second -invitation is required; our appetites are keen, and we thoroughly enjoy -McDonald’s substantial and bountiful breakfast.</p> - -<p>We pass through Terre Haute at 10.15 (9.15 Central) A. M., and cross the -Wabash River a short distance west of the city. Ten minutes after -passing through Terre Haute we cross the State line and enter Illinois. -There is a delay of five minutes at Effingham by a hot box on engine 34. -Just after leaving Effingham a stone was thrown by some one and broke an -outside window in car “Milton,” section 4, occupied by Mr. and Mrs. L. -E. Sheppard. A stop of five minutes is made at Greenville to oil and -take water. Three strange men boarded the train at this point and were -not noticed until after it had started, when they claimed they had made -a mistake, thinking it a regular train. The train was stopped to leave -them off. We partook of lunch at 1.15 (12.15 Central) P. M., being -always ready to eat.</p> - -<p>It is raining as we approach St. Louis, where we arrive at 2.30 (1.30 -Central) P. M. The effects of last Summer’s terrible tornado can plainly -be seen, as we cross the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_033" id="page_033"></a>{33}</span> bridge from East St. Louis, in great piles of -<i>débris</i> that have not as yet been cleared away. On account of the rain -the prospect of seeing much of the city is very poor. A trolley ride of -five miles through the city to Forrest Park was taken by a number of our -party. It is too wet to take a walk in the park, and after spending a -half hour in a large pavilion watching the pouring rain we return to the -Union Depot, which we look through and find it to be a large and -magnificent structure, exceeding in size and excelling in grandeur our -own Broad Street Station at Philadelphia. It was built at an expense of -$6,500,000, and covers an area of 424,200 square feet. The train shed -contains thirty tracks, which are used by twenty-two different roads.</p> - -<p>Several of us met Conductor W. Fetzer, of the Louisville and Nashville, -and had a pleasant half hour with him. On account of a defective flange, -a pair of new wheels were put under the dining car “Lafayette” this -afternoon. Mrs. Shaw, Mrs. Dale, Mrs. Reilly, and Miss Post are on the -sick list this afternoon. Called to dinner at 8.30 (7.30 Central) P. M., -after which we were escorted through the magnificent station by -Stationmaster J. J. Coakley and Conductor A. J. Harshman. The station is -lighted with thousands of electric lights of many different hues and -colors. Every light is burning to-night, the second time since the -construction of the station, the first time at its dedication, September -1st, 1894, and this the second time in honor of the visit of the -Pennsylvania Railroad conductors, May 9th, 1897. Our most sincere thanks -are due the kind and courteous stationmaster, J. J. Coakley, for the -favor and honor accorded us. May his shadow never grow less.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_034" id="page_034"></a>{34}</span></p> - -<p>An itinerary souvenir of our train over the Iron Mountain Route, Texas -and Pacific and Southern Pacific Railways, from St. Louis to Los -Angeles, via Texarkana and El Paso, was presented to each member of our -party by the Iron Mountain Route management through Mr. Coakley. It is a -neat little affair, much appreciated, and will be highly prized as a -souvenir of our trip.</p> - -<p>At 9.15 (8.15 Central) P. M. our train rolled out of the Grand Union -Depot over the Iron Mountain Route, which extends from St. Louis to -Texarkana, a distance of 490 miles. St. L. I. M. & S. engine No. 630 is -drawing us, with Engineer John Hayes at the throttle, Fireman J. E. -Schader, Conductor W. Hall, Brakeman J. L. Thompson, and Baggagemaster -M. Madison. We have this engine and crew to Poplar Bluff, 166 miles, -with the exception of the baggagemaster, who goes through to Texarkana. -There is an inquiry for Brother Reagan; he has not been seen since -leaving St. Louis. Our hearts are filled with consternation and alarm, -for we believe he has been left, and how can we get along without “Jack; -good, jolly, jovial Jack.” Maxwell’s eyes are dimmed with tears of -sorrow, and McCarty is wringing his hands in grief. “Let us stop the -train and return and get him,” suggested Mrs. Kalkman. “I believe he has -been kidnaped,” said Brother Sloane, “or he would never have got left.” -“He’s all right; I found him,” shouted Brother Waddington, as he entered -the car, and there was great rejoicing when it was learned that instead -of being kidnaped and left behind, Brother Reagan was peacefully -sleeping in Brother Waddington’s berth in the drawing room in rear of -the train.</p> - -<p>F. B. DeGarmo, trainmaster of St. Louis, Iron Mountain<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_035" id="page_035"></a>{35}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing034a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing034a_sml.jpg" width="315" height="164" alt="Image not available: AT EFFINGHAM, ILLINOIS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">AT EFFINGHAM, ILLINOIS.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing034b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing034b_sml.jpg" width="320" height="276" alt="Image not available: LEAVING LONGVIEW JUNCTION, TEXAS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">LEAVING LONGVIEW JUNCTION, TEXAS.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and Southern Railroad, and his assistant, T. H. Gray, accompanied us -from St. Louis to Poplar Bluff, and Conductor P. Elkins, a member of -DeSoto Division No. 241, got on at DeSoto and went with us to Bismarck. -A large number of our party were gathered in the smoking car and we had -quite an entertainment. Brother Elkins sang a number of songs, and the -cook and waiters, one of them having a banjo, entertained us with songs -and music hard to beat, and most thoroughly enjoyed by all. Conductors -McDonald and Suter and Brother Haas sang excellent songs, and Wyman and -Shaw gave recitations. Our genial train conductor, Capt. W. Hall, -related some interesting stories of the days when this section of the -country was terrorized by the operations and exploits of the Jesse -James’ gang of train robbers. Captain Hall’s train was held up one night -by this daring band of thieves at Gad’s Hill, 120 miles south of St. -Louis. Hall was forced to surrender and remain quiet with the cold -muzzle of a revolver pressed against his temple. An attempt was made to -blow open the safe in the express car, but the robbers became frightened -at their own noise and fled without securing any booty. The evening has -been such a very enjoyable one that midnight approaches unawares; -finding it so late we turn in, having less difficulty in doing so than -we had last night.</p> - -<h3>MONDAY, MAY 10th.</h3> - -<p>Got up this morning at 6.30 (5.30 Central) and found our train in charge -of Conductor H. C. Withrow and Engineer A. B. Archibald, with St. L. I. -M. & S. engine No. 375, fired by T. Grifin. Captain Withrow took<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_036" id="page_036"></a>{36}</span> charge -of the train at Poplar Bluff, with instructions to consume ten hours and -thirty-two minutes in the run to Texarkana, a distance of 325 miles. -Withrow has no brakeman, but is accompanied by a colored porter, J. J. -Norris, who performs the duties of a brakeman. We are now in Arkansas, -having crossed the State line last night at Moark, 185 miles south of -St. Louis. We arrive at Little Rock, Ark., 8.15 (7.15 Central) A. M., -and make a stop of ten minutes. We alight to look around and very much -admire the “375,” and are informed that it is one of the best engines on -the Iron Mountain Route and the first one built at the company’s new -shops at Baring Cross, Little Rock, Ark. Went to breakfast at 9.10 (8.10 -Central), hungry as a hyena.</p> - -<p>We cannot help but notice as we journey through Arkansas the advanced -condition of vegetation. Farmers in the East are only preparing their -ground for corn, and here it is up; potatoes are in blossom, and peas -are ready for use. Cotton is grown extensively here, and many acres are -seen with the plants just peeping through the ground. We are now nearing -the southern extremity of the State and approaching Texarkana, where we -arrive at 12.35 (11.35 A. M. Central) P. M., having passed through the -State of Arkansas 305 miles in a slightly southwesterly direction.</p> - -<p>A stop of twenty-five minutes is given us at Texarkana, which is on the -line between Arkansas and Texas, one-half of the station being in -Arkansas and the other half in Texas. Brother Wyman, who acts in the -double capacity of manager and clown, has a robe of crazy patchwork -design, a veritable coat of many colors, in which he has arrayed -himself, much to the amusement<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_037" id="page_037"></a>{37}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing036_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing036_sml.jpg" width="515" height="315" alt="Image not available: AT FORT WORTH, TEXAS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">AT FORT WORTH, TEXAS.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">of the crowd of natives who have assembled on our arrival. The antics of -Brother Wyman and a number of others who have taken possession of a -bronco and a team of donkeys occasion a great deal of merriment. As we -are about to leave, Mrs. Robert Foulon was presented with a large bunch -of beautiful magnolias by her friend, Mrs. Carmichael, of Texarkana. It -graced the sideboard of the dining car for many days and was much -admired.</p> - -<p>Left Texarkana 1.35 (12.35 Central) P. M. on the Texas and Pacific Road, -with T. & P. engine No. 126, Engineer William Gunn, Conductor Joseph -Scully, Brakeman J. C. Smith, who will run us to Longview Junction, 97 -miles. E. W. Campbell, trainmaster on the Eastern Division of the Texas -and Pacific, will go with us to Fort Worth, the terminus of his -division, 253 miles. Trainmaster Campbell is a member of Alamo Division -No. 59, of Texarkana. Brother Sloane went to a barber shop in Texarkana -and got left. Trainmaster Campbell left instructions for the conductor -of the following train to carry him to Longview Junction, where he will -overtake us. No “weeping and wailing and gnashing of teeth” in this -case, for we are assured of the safety of our brother.</p> - -<p>We arrived at Longview Junction on time, 5.22 (4.22 Central) P. M., and -five minutes later the following train, No. 55, arrived and with it came -Brother Sloane, who was given quite a reception, the ladies presenting -him with bouquets of natural grasses and flowers and the “boys” tying a -cord to him and leading him into the train. He has promised not to do it -again.</p> - -<p>Our train was attached to No. 55, which is called the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_038" id="page_038"></a>{38}</span> “Cannon Ball” -Express, and at 5.35 (4.35 Central) P. M. we left Longview Junction with -a train of nine cars, drawn by T. & P. engine No. 229, in charge of -Engineer E. Smith, fired by S. Jones; Conductor E. R. Woodward, Porter -and Brakeman Bristoe Young, who ran us to Fort Worth, a distance of 156 -miles, where we arrive 11.20 (10.20 Central) P. M. Just before reaching -the city we cross the Trinity River.</p> - -<p>When we arrive at Fort Worth we learn that there is trouble ahead of us -somewhere, caused by high water, which has a discouraging effect. We -will lay over at this point to-night, with the expectation of learning -more in the morning. There is a heavy thunder storm and it is raining -hard as we turn in at 11.30 (10.30 Central) P. M.</p> - -<h3>TUESDAY, MAY 11th.</h3> - -<p>Got up at 6.30 (5.30 Central), and found it raining hard. It cleared up -about eight o’clock and the party started out to see the town, it having -been announced that our train would leave at 12.15 (11.15 A M. Central) -P. M., nothing definite having been learned as to the trouble ahead. Our -party received the best of treatment from the good people of the town, -and many places of interest were visited. Officer H. C. Town, of the -city police, loaded sixteen of the party in a patrol wagon and drove -through the city to the City Hall, where they were kindly received and -shown over the building, from there to the water works, and through the -park to a point where a trolley line took them to the station. It was a -very enjoyable trip. Others of our party visited other places of -interest and had equally as good a time. A<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_039" id="page_039"></a>{39}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing038_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing038_sml.jpg" width="229" height="457" alt="Image not available: Yours in P.F. - -O H Bacon - -T & P Ry" /></a> -</div> - -<p class="nind">number of souvenirs were procured, the most highly prized being the -Texan sunbonnets, which so fascinated the ladies of our party that they -purchased, it is said, all that were on sale in the city. They are very -unique in style and worn very extensively by the native women of this -locality. Brother Post purchased a Texan sombrero, and all agree that it -is very becoming; the ladies are wearing their sunbonnets; Wyman has his -circus gown and a Texan sunbonnet on; and a photographer is placing his -apparatus in position to take a snap at the train and party before we -leave. With the snap of the camera comes the shout of “all aboard,” and -as we scamper on, the train moves slowly off, and we leave Fort Worth -behind us, but carry away with us pleasant memories of the beauty of the -city and of the kindness and civility of its people.</p> - -<p>T. & P. engine No. 188, run by Engineer John Baker and fired by John -Price, draws our train from Fort Worth to Big Springs, a distance of 270 -miles. Conductor O. H. Bacon and Brakeman Charles Gunning go with us -from Fort Worth to El Paso, a distance of 616 miles. Division -Superintendent J. B. Paul accompanied us from Fort Worth to Weatherford, -31 miles. Shortly after leaving Weatherford we crossed the Brazos River -and obtained a fine view of the Brazos Mountains. As we passed Eastland, -105 miles west of Fort Worth, we noticed devastation and ruin, the -effect, we were told, of a recent cyclone. A few miles further we reach -Baird and stop ten minutes for orders and water. A little boy about -three years of age attracts the attention of some of our party, who -ascertain that his name is Reynaud Strobe; his mother and grandfather -live at the station;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_040" id="page_040"></a>{40}</span> his father, who was an employe of the railroad, -was killed in an accident about a year ago, almost in sight of his home. -Master Reynaud is taken through the train and his little cap is filled -with cake and coin and his infant mind with wonderment and awe. He -cannot understand it, and his baby face expresses the puzzled condition -of his mind. Should he live it is hoped he will remember the -<i>Pennsylvania Railroad Conductors’ Excursion</i>.</p> - -<p>We have now entered the plains of Texas and at 6.20 (5.20 Central) P. M. -commence to pass through the prairie dog district. Brother Post is at -the throttle; he ran No. 188 for about 50 miles and claims to have -killed two jack rabbits and a prairie dog. Jack rabbits and prairie dogs -are very numerous through this section, and can be seen scampering in -all directions as the train thunders past. We are now nearing Big -Springs, where a stop will be made to change engines. It has become -dark, and we can no longer view the landscape, jack rabbits, and prairie -dogs. We arrive at Big Springs 10.15 (9.15 Central) P. M., and after a -delay of fifteen minutes leave with T. & P. engine No. 75, manned by -Engineer D. C. Everley and Fireman Lewis Lem, whose run extends to El -Paso, 347 miles. We have now entered the Great Staked Plains, and -regretting that the darkness prevents us from seeing this famous -country, we retire for the night at 12.20 (11.20 P. M. Central) A. M.</p> - -<h3>WEDNESDAY, MAY 12th.</h3> - -<p>Turned out this morning about the usual time, and found the train -standing at San Martine Station, 174 miles east of El Paso. As we move -on our way again we find we are passing through a picturesque, but -barren<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_041" id="page_041"></a>{41}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing040a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing040a_sml.jpg" width="311" height="193" alt="Image not available: A GROUP AT VAN HORN, TEXAS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A GROUP AT VAN HORN, TEXAS.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing040b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing040b_sml.jpg" width="316" height="207" alt="Image not available: TOM McDONALD AND FRED BEACH." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">TOM McDONALD AND FRED BEACH.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">country of plains and mountain ranges. A run of 50 miles from San -Martine brings us to Van Horn, where we make a halt of forty-five -minutes and are entertained by Mrs. M. R. Beach and her son Fred. Mrs. -Beach has charge of the station at Van Horn, which is also a supply -station for the railroad. Fred. is a young man about twenty-five years -old, and a veritable cowboy both in appearance and deportment. He -entertained and amused the party with an exhibition of bronco riding, -and to show his skill in the use of the lasso, chased Brother Wyman and -lassoed him with the bronco at a full run. Miss Myrtle Taylor, a young -lady who is visiting Mrs. Beach, also rode the bronco for the amusement -of the party, but it was noticed that the animal exhibited a far more -gentle spirit under the young lady’s management than it did when in -charge of Fred. A cyclone cellar in the back yard was an object of much -interest, and the interior was explored by several of the party. All the -dwellings, of which there are but few through this region, we are told, -have their cyclone pits. For many miles through this country there are -no habitations except along the line of the railroad, and the people are -all employes of the Texas and Pacific Railroad Company.</p> - -<p>Leaving Van Horn, we pass close to the Sierra Blanca Mountain range, and -in a short time stop at Sierra Blanca, where we lay over for half an -hour and devote the time to looking around. Sierra Blanca is 92 miles -southeast of El Paso and is the conjunction of the Texas and Pacific and -Southern Pacific Railroads, which use joint tracks from this point to El -Paso. A number of us visited the adobe residence of Jacob Hand, an aged -miner and prospector, who kindly allowed us to inspect<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_042" id="page_042"></a>{42}</span> his dwelling, -which is a very unique and novel affair, a part of which is used for a -school, and the old gentleman is the teacher. Mr. Hand generously gave -our party specimens of gold, silver, and copper ore, which are highly -prized as souvenirs. Brother Haas had considerable difficulty in getting -in range of the old gentleman with his kodak, but succeeded by strategy -in getting a “snap” before we left; also one of a group of the party -with the dwelling in the background. In the midst of the group is seen a -Mexican babe held in the arms of one of the ladies of the party, who is -closely watched by the mother of the infant, who fears her babe will be -appropriated for a souvenir.</p> - -<p>Leaving Sierra Blanca, we pass in sight and within about 20 miles of -Livermore’s Peak, 8200 feet high, said to be the highest point in Texas. -We have now entered a wild, barren, broken, uninhabited region, hemmed -in by dreary, ominous-looking mountain ranges. As the road traverses -this broken, desolate district, there are places where almost complete -circles are made in order to avoid ridges and ravines. Just after -passing Malone Station, 15 miles from Sierra Blanca, we encounter a -curve, and after following the circle for over a mile, find the tracks -are less than 200 yards apart.</p> - -<p>Mrs. Wyman, Mrs. Layfield, Mrs. Shaw, Brother Layfield, and myself rode -on the engine from Finlay to Ft. Hancock, which afforded us a fine view -of the rugged scenery through which we passed. We arrived at washout, 5 -miles east of El Paso, at 5.30 (4.30 Central) P. M., and find our train -can proceed no further until the track is repaired, four miles of it at -the present time being under water.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_043" id="page_043"></a>{43}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing042a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing042a_sml.jpg" width="311" height="193" alt="Image not available: MYRTLE TAYLOR ON A BRONCO." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">MYRTLE TAYLOR ON A BRONCO.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing042b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing042b_sml.jpg" width="316" height="207" alt="Image not available: RESIDENCE OF JACOB HAND, SIERRA BLANCA, TEXAS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">RESIDENCE OF JACOB HAND, SIERRA BLANCA, TEXAS.</span> -</div> - -<p>Wagons were in waiting to convey the party six miles across a desert -plateau to El Paso at one dollar per head; all but a few took advantage -of this method of reaching the city. The remembrance of this ride will -not fade from the memory in a hurry—six miles of knee-deep, red-hot -desert, dust and sand, through which the horses could scarcely drag -their loads. We have a good view of the flooded district and notice many -buildings surrounded with water, the occupants of which were forced to -flee to higher ground. All this water, we are told, is the result of -melting snows away up in the mountain districts, 75 or 80 miles away. -There is seldom any rain through this region, and the Rio Grande, one -half the year a shallow, insignificant stream, is to-day spread over -many miles of country, causing devastation, ruin, and suffering.</p> - -<p>Arriving in the city of El Paso, we are obliged to seek for -accommodations, which causes a separation of our party. The Firemen’s -State Convention is in progress here, and the town is full of visitors. -Ten of us found rooms at the “Grand Central,” some at “Vendome,” and a -number at the “Pierson.” The latter is the most popular place, and an -effort was made to get the entire party quartered there, but it could -not be done. After engaging rooms at the “Grand Central” we went across -the river, which is not overflowed at this point, into the old Mexican -town of Ciudad Juarez, the Paso del Norte of our childhood geographies.</p> - -<p>Under the escort of Conductors T. H. Purcell and Charles Allen, of the -Southern Pacific, we were shown much that was of interest. We were -introduced by Captain Purcell to Signor Miguel Ahuamada, the gentlemanly -Governor of the State of Chihuahua, who entertained<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_044" id="page_044"></a>{44}</span> us very nicely for -half an hour, giving us an international treat, which ceremony consists -of drinks of whatever each member of the party wishes, the guests -forming in a semicircle in front of the Governor, touching glasses with -him as they pass. Captain Purcell at the same time made a speech in the -Mexican language, with which he is thoroughly conversant, having at one -time filled the position of Government Interpreter at this point. Of -course none of us understood a thing that he said, but we felt sure it -was all right from the pleased expression on his Honor’s, face, who -replied in a pleasant manner in his native tongue.</p> - -<p>Purcell told us afterward that he had informed the Governor that we were -a party of Americans who had called to do him honor; that we drank to -his health and a long and happy life; that we had the highest regard for -Mexican institutions, believing them to be the best in the world; that -their men were the noblest and their women the most beautiful we had -ever met; that we wore upon our bosoms the colors of the Mexican flag, -which we considered, next to the Stars and Stripes, the most beautiful -banner in the world, and we hoped it would ever wave in triumph and in -peace over an empire that would continue to increase in prosperity and -wealth. No wonder the old man smiled; we would have smiled too had we -understood what was being said. The red, white and green of our tourist -badges had caught his eye and he was pleased. Captain Purcell’s speech -flatters him and he wants to do something to show his appreciation.</p> - -<p>Our visit does him great honor, and he desires to reciprocate; had he -time to arrange for a bull fight he could give us much amusement, but -his best bull was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_045" id="page_045"></a>{45}</span> killed a short time ago and his matadors are out of -training; but he has a prisoner under the sentence of death, and if we -will return on the morrow he will execute him for our pleasure and -entertainment. Captain Purcell made us acquainted with this proposition, -which we declined with thanks. We had no desire to see the poor fellow -shot, which is their method of administering capital punishment. Bidding -his Honor adieu, we are next escorted through several of the principal -gambling resorts and are much interested in all we see. It is growing -late, and when we return to El Paso and reach our rooms it is midnight.</p> - -<h3>THURSDAY, MAY 13th.</h3> - -<p>Arose about 6.30 and found the morning clear and warm. There are many -wonderful, strange, and unusual things in, around, and about El Paso, -but one of the most puzzling and perplexing things is its time. -Traveling westward you arrive on Central time and depart on Pacific, a -difference of two hours, while in the city they use local time, which is -a split between the two. Over the river in Juarez they use Mexican time. -Visited a barber shop for a shave, then a restaurant for breakfast and -got another shave; I was taxed one dollar and twenty cents for breakfast -for two. We didn’t return for dinner.</p> - -<p>Those of our party who did not visit Juarez last evening attended the -State Firemen’s ball and banquet under the escort of Colonel Whitmore, -Acting Mayor of El Paso, and Chief J. J. Connors, of the city fire -department, and they all speak in the highest terms of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_046" id="page_046"></a>{46}</span> the royal -treatment they received and the grand time they had. The city of El Paso -contains about 12,000 inhabitants, but the population is almost double -that number this week, which gives the town a very lively appearance. We -learn that our train cannot be gotten over the washout to-day, and -arrangements are being made to remain in the city to-night. Engaged a -pleasant room for fifty cents per day at the “Wellington,” corner of -Staunton and Texas Streets, kept by Mrs. Whitmore; quite a number of our -party are stopping here.</p> - -<p>Brother Wyman hired a horse to-day and rode in the parade. It is very -hot in the sun. Went over in front of the Court House this afternoon to -see the firemen race. There was quite an exciting time. Brother Haas was -there with his kodak and had a narrow escape from being run over in -trying to get a “snap” at a team as the horses galloped past. Had a -pleasant chat in the evening with Mr. Pettus, an old resident of the -place, who has a furnishing store next to the “Wellington.” He is an -entertaining man and gave some interesting information relative to the -early history and habits of the country and people. I turned in about -eleven o’clock, but can’t speak for them all, for this is an interesting -city.</p> - -<h3>FRIDAY, MAY 14th.</h3> - -<p>Turn out this morning about 7.30 and find the weather clear and warm. We -go to a nearby restaurant for breakfast; mutton chops are one of the -items on the bill of fare, and we are pleased, for we are partial to -chops—nice, juicy, tender mutton chops; but<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_047" id="page_047"></a>{47}</span> these chops do not quite -come up to our idea of what mutton chops should be—not so juicy nor so -tender as we would like; but being hungry we quietly and uncomplainingly -devour what is set before us. “Where do you people in El Paso get your -mutton?” I inquired of the waiter as we arose from the table (for I had -no recollection of seeing a sheep since we entered the State of Texas). -“<i>Goats</i>,” was the short but suggestive answer. A little private inquiry -elicited the information that it is a fact that the greater part of the -“mutton” consumed in El Paso is a product of the goatherd. The supply is -apparently inexhaustible, for thousands of those ruminating, odoriferous -quadrupeds can be seen roaming the adjacent plains and plateaus in great -herds, attended by boys and dogs.</p> - -<p>Accompanied Manager Wyman to Superintendent Martin’s office, where we -learn “that there is no prospect of getting our train across the washout -this week. The water has fallen but very little, and while we are -working day and night, endeavoring to close the break, our progress is -necessarily slow on account of the action of the high water, and the -work cannot be completed sufficiently to get our train across until the -water recedes. And no one knows,” continued Mr. Martin, “when this will -be, for the water is just as likely to rise as to fall. The weather has -been very hot these last few days and has melted the snow in the -mountains very rapidly, which has caused the high water here. When the -snow is gone the water will fall, so you see it depends upon the supply -of snow, of which we know nothing about. If you wish to continue on your -journey I will send you to Los Angeles by regular train,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_048" id="page_048"></a>{48}</span> and when we -succeed in getting your train across will send it on after you.”</p> - -<p>Brother Wyman rather favors this proposition, as he desires to reach Los -Angeles before the Grand Division adjourns, but the majority of our -party will not agree to it, preferring to remain with the train and take -their chance with it; so the idea of going ahead by regular train is -abandoned. A party of us procured a four-horse team and went over to the -train to-day, some to remain and others to return. Would have remained -had Mrs. S. been along, for it is a dreadful hot trip of two and -one-half hours across that burning sand.</p> - -<p>We found our train sidetracked at Alfalfa, one mile east of the washout, -and had one mile to walk after leaving the wagon. Alfalfa is not a -place—it is only a name. There is a sidetrack here and a post with a -board on it, and on the board is painted in large black letters the word -<span class="smcap">Alfalfa</span>. That is all. It is a flagstop for accommodation trains, but -there is no station, not even a shed, a platform, nor a plank. The -nearest civilized communities are El Paso, 7 miles away to the west, and -Fort Bliss, the same distance to the north. On the east end of the same -sidetrack where our train lies are a number of cabooses of the Texas and -Pacific construction train, occupied by Mexican families whose husbands -and fathers are working on the repairs at the washout. They are a -squalid, uninviting-looking set, but seem happy and contented with their -lot.</p> - -<p>Here and there in the edge of a sandbank can be seen a “dugout,” or, -sheltered in a mesquite thicket, a “shack” occupied by the same -nationality, who with their goats and burros are very pictures of meek -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_049" id="page_049"></a>{49}</span> lowly contentment. These are the surroundings in the midst of which -we are sidetracked. We find our people (those who are with the train) -with smiles upon their faces as they tell us they are “all right” and -are having a good and pleasant time. There must surely be an element or -ingredient in this desert air and atmosphere that breeds contentment and -repose.</p> - -<p>Several of the boys went over to the train and back on broncos to-day, -and experienced a hot but exhilarating ride. The party consisted of -Brothers Waddington, Taylor, Matthews, Moore, Mattson, Leary, and Elder, -who all claim that the ride, although a very hot one, was rare sport. -The novel experience of a ride of 14 miles on a fiery, wiry Texan horse -is a feature of their visit to El Paso that will not be forgotten.</p> - -<p>Brother Wyman remained at Alfalfa to watch the progress of repairs at -the washout, and I returned in the wagon to El Paso. Dining-car -Conductor McDonald accompanied us; he was looking for a wagon-load of -supplies for his car from El Paso that had not arrived. When about half -way across the plateau we met the team. Mr. McDonald interviewed the -driver to ascertain if his wagon was loaded with what had been ordered -and found everything satisfactory.</p> - -<p>As we leave behind us the hot, suffocating desert trail we pass close to -the base of Mt. Franklin, in the shadow of which El Paso lies, and -crossing the railroad tracks of the Fort Bliss Branch we feel a deep -sense of relief as we strike the hard, smooth street that leads us into -the city’s welcome shade and rest.</p> - -<p>Learning on our arrival back that the El Paso <i>Telegraph</i>, a morning -paper, contained an account of our<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_050" id="page_050"></a>{50}</span> trip and detention, we procured -several copies and sent them East to friends.</p> - -<p>The majority of our party went over to the train this afternoon; those -remaining in town witnessed this evening a grand pyrotechnical -exhibition under the auspices and management of the McGinty Club, a -powerful social and political organization of El Paso. After the parade, -during which there was a fine display of fireworks, the storming of Fort -McGinty took place, which was the leading feature of the occasion. The -fort, built of some light material, was erected on a neighboring hill, -Roman candles and sky rockets were used as weapons by both the storming -party and the defenders, which caused the mock battle to assume a very -realistic appearance.</p> - -<p>After the exhibition of fireworks a party of us visited the famous Astor -House, kept by Col. Si Ryan. Si is one of the noted characters of El -Paso. Years ago he was sheriff of three counties in Southern California, -Mono, Inyo, and San Bernardino, and in dealing with the outlaws and -renegades that infested the country at that time he achieved a -reputation for nerve and courage that has never been surpassed, and the -numerous scars upon his person, made by knife and bullet, bear silent -testimony that he never shirked his duty in the face of danger or turned -his back upon a foe. We find the colonel a prince of good fellows, and -after enjoying his company and partaking of his hospitality, we repaired -to the headquarters of the McGinty Club, and with a number of visiting -firemen were royally entertained.</p> - -<p>Brother McCarty was with us, and for some unexplained<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_051" id="page_051"></a>{51}</span> reason he -received special attention; but Charlie is a good fellow and deserves -it, and being a bachelor it is all right. Several of us withdrew from -the meeting before it adjourned, as it was drawing near midnight. We had -spent a long and busy day and were tired. Soon reached my room at “The -Wellington,” and retiring, endeavored to recall the various events of -the day, but rushing water, desert dust, galloping broncos, McGinties, -sky rockets, and smoke got mixed up in inextricable confusion as I lost -consciousness in sleep.</p> - -<h3>SATURDAY, MAY 15th.</h3> - -<p>Turned out this morning about seven o’clock and found the weather clear, -with every indication pointing to another hot day. Not feeling very -well, I went out in search of “medicine”; met several of the boys out on -the same errand; our symptoms are similar, and we conclude that the -powder smoke inhaled during the McGinty demonstration is responsible for -our indisposition.</p> - -<p>A visit to Superintendent Martin’s office results in the information -that the washout situation remains unchanged. Mr. Martin can give us no -encouragement. Brother Layfield and myself called on Mr. Joseph Sweeney -during the morning and spent a pleasant hour with him. Learning that a -party was being made up to return to the train, Mrs. Wyman, Mrs. Shaw, -and myself join them. The Colonel and Mrs. Layfield desire to go, but -the wagon is already crowded. The sun is intensely hot, and at 9.30 A. -M. we leave El Paso for one more trip across that never-to-be-forgotten<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_052" id="page_052"></a>{52}</span> -scorching desert plateau. The party consists of nine, including the -driver, in a large transfer coach drawn by two horses. To relieve the -overburdened animals, the men walk part of the way and keep a sharp -lookout for rattlesnakes, for the driver had hinted that we might -encounter some, as they are known to be quite numerous in this locality. -Two large snakes of an unknown species were seen; one glided into a hole -in the side of the bank of a deep arroyo, and we did not go to look for -him; the other was discovered lying quietly behind a large sage bush by -one of the “boys,” who silently imparted the information to the rest.</p> - -<p>We gathered around, and looking where he pointed, saw a portion of his -snakeship’s form through a small opening in the bush. “Think it would be -safe to shoot at him?” whispered the discoverer of the snake, as he -clutched his ever-ready revolver in his grasp. “Yes; blaze away,” -answered a chorus of low voices. <i>Bang!</i> went the pistol, and we saw the -snake slightly move, but it did not run away. “I hit him,” exclaimed our -brother with the pistol; and we all moved cautiously around the bush to -investigate. There he was, sure enough, a greenish-striped fellow about -six feet long, but he had no head, and from his appearance it had been -three or four days since he had lost it. Our marksman’s ball had struck -the ground just underneath the body and turned it partly over, which -movement had deceived us. I will say no <i>more</i> about it lest you guess -who did the shooting; not that I think he would care, for mistakes are -being made every day by some of us that are worse than shooting dead -snakes.</p> - -<p>Arriving at our train about noon, after an absence<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_053" id="page_053"></a>{53}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing052a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing052a_sml.jpg" width="315" height="233" alt="Image not available: FLOODED DISTRICT, ALFALFA, TEXAS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">FLOODED DISTRICT, ALFALFA, TEXAS.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing052b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing052b_sml.jpg" width="320" height="288" alt="Image not available: WRECKED BY TRAIN ROBBERS ON SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">WRECKED BY TRAIN ROBBERS ON SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">of three days, brings with it a feeling of relief, similar to getting -home again. The majority of the party had preceded us, a number having -come over yesterday. All express themselves as being glad to get back to -the train, notwithstanding its uninviting surroundings and isolated -condition. What we all appreciate very much and what goes far toward -breaking the monotony of the situation is the fact that nearly all the -Texas and Pacific and Southern Pacific trains stop here, and are very -kind in furnishing us with water and ice when we need it.</p> - -<p>Yesterday afternoon a Southern Pacific train stopped here that had been -held up by train robbers a few miles east of Sierra Blanca. The safe in -the express car was blown open with dynamite and robbed of a large -amount of money. The train was held for one and a half hours while the -work was being done. The passengers on the train were not molested. Some -of our party entered the car and examined the wrecked safe, which was -blown almost into fragments. A portion of the car roof was torn off by -the force of the explosion and pieces of the safe were found in the -sides and ends of the car. A parrot and a rooster in the car lost nearly -all their feathers, but otherwise were apparently uninjured. Several of -our party obtained parrot and rooster feathers and pieces of the safe as -souvenirs. The Texan Rangers, we are told, are hot on the trail of the -outlaws.</p> - -<p>Manager Wyman has just returned from the washout and brings no -encouragement. “The break cannot be repaired until the water falls two -feet,” says Brother Wyman, “and it shows no disposition to fall.” “Give -me two hundred men and the material to bridge those<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_054" id="page_054"></a>{54}</span> arroyos and lay the -track and I will have a railroad from here into El Paso across that -desert plateau inside the time they have been waiting for this water to -fall,” exclaimed Brother Sloane, spiritedly. “They won’t leave you do -it, Charlie,” said Brother Terry, sympathetically. The arrival of six -more of our people from El Paso and the announcement of dinner at the -same time prevented further conversation in this direction.</p> - -<p>We were favored with a light shower in the afternoon, which evidently -stirred up the mosquitoes, for they are very numerous and aggressive -this evening. This is a beautiful night. It is the full of the moon, and -the clear, marvelous light it sheds is the most wonderful moonlight we -have ever seen; so clear, so bright, and yet so soft; no one can -describe it, for it is simply indescribable. Objects can be discerned at -a remarkable distance, and Mt. Franklin, six miles away, looms up to the -vision dark, grim, and majestic.</p> - -<p>As our party one by one retire to their berths there is not a mind among -them all but what is impressed with the beauty and grandeur of the -night, the silence and serenity of which is broken only by the -occasional barking of a watchful Mexican dog or the quarrelsome snarling -of thieving coyotes.</p> - -<h3>SUNDAY, MAY 16th.</h3> - -<p>To-day is clear and warm, with a delightful breeze stirring. We avoid -the hot glare of the sun by remaining as much as possible on the shady -side of the train. There are remarkable conditions of climate here. In -the sun the heat is distressing, almost unbearable; in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_055" id="page_055"></a>{55}</span> shade it is -more than comfortable, almost luxurious, producing a feeling of -exuberant pleasure and vitality that is difficult to express or -understand. There was a light thunder shower during the night, which no -doubt had a tendency to further clarify and rarify this wonderful -atmosphere. We are making the best of the situation; have plenty to eat -and drink, but there is a scarcity of water for washing purposes, -although large irrigating ditches are close to hand, but the waters are -too muddy for use.</p> - -<p>About noon a Southern Pacific work train came along and supplied our -cars with water, which is hauled in large wooden tanks holding about -4000 gallons each. It is brought from Lasca, about 70 miles east of -Alfalfa. S. P. engine No. 904 is drawing the train which is supplying us -with water, Engineer John Condon, Conductor G. M. Seamonds, Brakemen J. -M. Bates and Charles McDonald, who are very kind and obliging, carefully -supplying each car with all the water needed. Manager Wyman has just -received a telegram from Superintendent Martin saying that the break -situation is not improving, and suggests that our committee make -arrangements to go some other way.</p> - -<p>Brakeman Charles Gunning, who has been with us since we left Ft. Worth, -made suggestions to our committee which were immediately taken up, viz., -that we return to Sierra Blanca and from there take the Southern Pacific -to Spofford Junction, thence over Eagle Pass and the Mexican -International to Torreon, then up over the Mexican Central to El Paso, -making a triangle trip of about 1450 miles. The committee immediately -set out to communicate with the railroad officials, and we<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_056" id="page_056"></a>{56}</span> are all -waiting anxiously to know the result of the conference.</p> - -<p>In the meantime work at the washout must have progressed with remarkable -rapidity, for some one just from there brings the highly encouraging -report that the break in the track is trestled over and the prospect of -getting us away soon is good. This report comes less than three hours -after Manager Wyman had received a message from Superintendent Martin -saying “he could give us no hope; that we had better go some other way.” -Is it any wonder that we are doubtful of the good news and regard it as -a fake? But it is true, nevertheless, for Brothers Wyman and Maxwell -have just returned and verify the report, adding “that if the water does -not rise again we will go out of here to-morrow.”</p> - -<p>Brothers Wyman, Maxwell, Sheppard, Gilliland, and myself walked down to -the washout this evening and came back in the caboose of the work train. -It is about three miles from where our train lies to the break in the -track that has caused so much labor and anxiety. The greater part of -this work is performed by Mexicans, and they have been working day and -night, much of the time up to the waist in water, in order to get the -break repaired. More of our party came over from El Paso this evening; -they are all over now but two or three. Brothers Haas and Smith and Mrs. -Smith went over to El Paso to-day to go by regular train to Los Angeles.</p> - -<p>When Brother John Reilly came over to the train he brought with him a -very much corroded revolver, presented as a souvenir to the Pennsylvania -Railroad conductors’ excursion party by Col. Si Ryan. The revolver -belonged to George Daley, mining engineer, of Lake<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_057" id="page_057"></a>{57}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing056_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing056_sml.jpg" width="318" height="452" alt="Image not available: WILLIAM J. MAXWELL, OF THE COMMITTEE." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">WILLIAM J. MAXWELL, OF THE COMMITTEE.</span> -</div> - -<p>Valley, New Mexico, who was killed by Indians September 9th, 1878. The -revolver was found on the alkali plains where Engineer Daley met his -death. The alkali had eaten off all the woodwork and corroded with rust -the iron. It is an interesting relic and highly valued as a souvenir.</p> - -<p>The “boys” have been patrolling the train at night since we have been -sidetracked here. I have volunteered to go on second watch to-night, and -turned in at eleven o’clock, expecting to be called at 2 A. M. for -patrol duty.</p> - -<h3>MONDAY, MAY 17th.</h3> - -<p>Awakened at 2.30 this morning by Brother George Dale, and with Brother -Sam Horner go on duty to watch and to wait for morning to come. There is -nothing else for us to do; all is quiet outside and around the train as -we promenade back and forth on the alert for anything of a suspicious -nature. The morning is clear and bright and the air cool and refreshing. -Brother Kilgore, who sleeps near the roof in the car “Milton,” is doing -some vigorous snoring, and Brother Houston, in the rear of the “Orchis,” -is talking earnestly in his sleep. We catch an occasional glimpse of a -skulking dog or coyote seeking for food amongst the scraps thrown from -the train, but no marauder appears to molest us. A heavy 44-caliber -six-shooter, presented to the writer just before starting on the trip by -Lyttleton Johnson, Esq., of Chadd’s Ford, Pa., has been at the service -of our watchmen, and we feel that we are well armed. When not in -possession of the watchmen, Baggagemaster George Anderson sleeps with it -under his pillow.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_058" id="page_058"></a>{58}</span></p> - -<p>The coming of day and the stir of the occupants of the cars relieve us -from duty, and we strike out through the mesquite thicket to reconnoitre -and obtain a view of our surroundings. Less than 200 yards from the -train we come to a deep, wide, irrigating canal, through which the muddy -water is rushing in a torrent. We can go no further in this direction -and conclude to follow the stream in quest of a bridge. We go but a -short distance when the thicket becomes impenetrable, and we retreat, -and cutting a cane from the thicket as a memento of our little walk, we -return to the train, glad to find that breakfast is ready and to learn -that an effort will be made to get us over the break to-day.</p> - -<p>Brother Wyman has been closely watching the progress of the repairs, and -under the supervision of Master Mechanic H. Small, the work these last -two days has made very rapid advancement. The sun is scorching hot and -the forenoon is spent by the party sitting in groups in the shadow of -the train discussing the various features of the situation, and many are -the surmises as to what will be the result of an attempt to cross that -sea of water over the repaired and trestled tracks with a train of cars -of such weight as ours. We feel that the risk is great, but realize the -effort to get us over is to be made, when about 1 P. M. S. P. engine No. -719, in charge of Engineer M. Love, is run in against our train and we -are pushed, with six construction cars ahead of us, out on the main -track and up toward the flooded district. Conductor J. H. Ludwig has -charge of the train, and in him Mrs. Ed. Foster recognizes a cousin whom -she had not seen for many years. The recognition is mutual and the -meeting a happy one. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_059" id="page_059"></a>{59}</span> knowledge that the conductor is related to and -personally known by a member of our party creates a feeling of -confidence that almost assures our safe deliverance.</p> - -<p>We have now reached high water and our train is being slowly pushed -farther and farther into a gurgling, surging, muddy flood until the -dreaded break is reached, with miles of water all around us. The -repaired track, propped and trestled, settles and sinks out of sight -when it receives the weight of the cars, that toss and roll and creak in -a manner which, if it does not frighten us, fills us with much concern, -for we are afraid we will lose our train in the flood. A sudden stop, -caused by the bursting of an air-brake hose on the engine, fills us with -alarm. “We are lost,” murmured Mrs. Maxwell, and her face wore a -frightened look. “Not yet,” replied Brother Schuler, and his assurance -gave us comfort; but the few minutes delay caused by the accident was -almost fatal, for our heavy dining car had settled until its wheels were -covered with water and the repairsmen thought a rail had broken beneath -its weight. In water almost up to their necks the men made an -examination of the track under the car and found it intact.</p> - -<p>The signal was given to move ahead, and as slowly the sunken car comes -into position, hearts become lighter and faces grow brighter; the -dreadful suspense is over, and we give more attention to our -surroundings. We see many fine residences surrounded by water, and large -fields of grain inundated and ruined. We are two hours coming through -the four miles of high water. Slowly and carefully we are safely brought -through, and all concerned are entitled to the highest praise for the -able and judicious manner in which the train was handled.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_060" id="page_060"></a>{60}</span></p> - -<p>Arriving at the Southern Pacific station in El Paso about three o’clock, -and finding we have an hour before leaving, many avail themselves of the -opportunity of taking a parting look at this interesting city and -bidding adieu to the many kind friends who have done so much toward -making our forced stay a pleasant and happy one. Four of our party, -under the escort of Brother Sloane, have taken a trip over to Juarez, -and much uneasiness and concern is felt for them, as the time is up for -our train to go and they have not returned. The engine whistle is -sounded long and loud to call them in, but they do not come. “They have -gone over there to make some purchases,” asserts Brother Sheppard, “and -I fear have been arrested for trying to evade the customs laws.” “No -fear of that,” replies Captain Purcell, who has charge of our train, -“you may rest assured that no member of your party will be molested by -the customs officers. The courtesy and freedom of the cities of El Paso -and Juarez have been extended to you, and the badge you wear is a -guarantee of your safety.” “Yes,” adds Col. Si Ryan, who is on hand to -see us off, “Diaz wouldn’t allow any of you Pennsylvanians pinched if -you should carry off the whole State of Chihuahua, for his Honor thinks -Pennsylvania the greatest and best State of the Union, with the -exception, of course, of Texas,” and there is a proud, faraway look in -the Colonel’s eye as he contemplates the enormous area and the -illimitable possibilities of the great Lone Star State. Notwithstanding -the assurance of Captain Purcell and Colonel Ryan, Brother Post is very -much concerned, for Miss Ella is with the absent party, and he has gone -to look for them. Brothers Moore and Dougherty have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_061" id="page_061"></a>{61}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing060_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing060_sml.jpg" width="317" height="361" alt="Image not available: COL. SI RYAN." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">COL. SI RYAN.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">taken advantage of the delay and are off looking for souvenirs. Those -who are waiting for the return of the absent ones are growing very -impatient, and when at last they are seen coming, impatience and -uneasiness give way to feelings of relief and gladness, and Brother -Sloane is forgiven once more on the plea “that it was a misunderstanding -of the time that caused the trouble,” and gave it as his opinion that -“El Paso time is one of the most confusing problems that ever worried a -tourist.”</p> - -<p>The deep-toned engine bell peals out the warning that the train is about -to start; “All aboard” is shouted, the last hand shake is given, and at -5.45 (2.45 Pacific) P. M., just five days, six hours, and forty-five -minutes late, our train rolled out of the Southern Pacific Station and -across the Rio Grande, leaving behind the pretty and interesting city of -El Paso and our many new-found friends, whose liberality and kindness -will ever remain a pleasant and happy memory with us. Our train is drawn -by S. P. engine No. 1395, in charge of Engineer Joseph Bird and fired by -J. V. Paul, who accompany us to Tucson, 312 miles. Conductor T. H. -Purcell and Brakeman E. G. Shaub go with us to Yuma, 563 miles.</p> - -<p>We are in New Mexico, having entered it when we crossed the Rio Grande -River. The country is wild and barren and the railroad very crooked. -Engineer Bird, in his eagerness to make up the lost time, is running at -a speed which Manager Wyman thinks is not consistent with safety. The -cars rock and roll in an alarming manner, and several dishes have been -broken in the dining car, which calls forth a protest from our friend -McDonald of that most cherished department. Brother Wyman<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_062" id="page_062"></a>{62}</span> immediately -requests Conductor Purcell to instruct the engineer to reduce speed, -which is done, much to the relief and comfort of all on board. Brother -Joseph Flory, of St. Louis Division No. 3, State Railroad and Warehouse -Commissioner, of Jefferson City, Mo., and Harry Steere, Esq., traveling -passenger agent of the Southern Pacific Railroad, are our guests from El -Paso to Los Angeles, and a much appreciated acquisition to our party.</p> - -<p>They have a fund of useful and interesting information on hand -pertaining to the country through which we are passing, which they -impart to us in a pleasant and entertaining manner. “What place is this, -Mr. Steere?” we inquire as a pretty little town bursts upon our vision. -“This is Deeming,” replies Mr. Steere, “and it is quite an important -place. We are now 88 miles from El Paso, and this is the first town we -have seen. A few years ago it was as barren and uninhabitable here as -any of the desolate country through which we have passed, but good water -was discovered a few feet below the surface of the ground, and now the -place is noted for its many wells of fine water, which is shipped for -hundreds of miles and is also used for irrigating purposes, for nothing -will grow throughout this region unless it is artificially watered. The -thrifty young shade trees, the shrubbery and patches of verdant -vegetation you noticed as we passed through Deeming is convincing -evidence that all this region needs, to make it one of the most fertile -and productive countries in the world, is plenty of water.”</p> - -<p>For 60 miles further we pass through this region of desert plateaus -known as the plains of Deeming. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_063" id="page_063"></a>{63}</span> dust is almost suffocating and -sifts through every crack and crevice, the double, almost air-tight, -windows of the Pullmans being insufficiently close to keep it out. At -the little station of Lordsburg, 60 miles from Deeming, Engineer Bird -stops to water his iron horse. “This supply of water,” remarked Mr. -Steere, “is brought here in pipes from a large spring or lake in yonder -mountain, five miles away.”</p> - -<p>Looking in the direction indicated, we can see through the gathering -dusk of evening the dark outlines of a mountain in the distance. “ ’Tis a -pity,” continued Mr. Steere, “that you were not enabled to pass through -this section during daylight, for there are some things I should like -you to see. We are drawing near the Arizona line, and the scenery is -becoming more broken and varied. Those mountains which you can dimly -discern on your right are composed of cliffs and crags of reddish rock -of a peculiar and interesting formation. On the left the great San Simon -Valley stretches away to the south for a distance of 75 or 80 miles, and -is the grazing ground for many thousands of cattle. One company alone, -the San Simon Cattle Company, it is said, has a herd of nearly 100,000 -head.” “What do they feed on, Mr. Steere?” I asked, for visions of the -dust-environed plains of Deeming were still floating in my mind. “This -great valley,” answered Mr. Steere, “through the northern boundary of -which we are now passing, is not nearly so dry as the more elevated -country through which we have passed. There are occasionally short -periods of wet weather which produces pasture very rapidly, the pasture -consisting chiefly of what is known through here as gama grass, which -grows<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_064" id="page_064"></a>{64}</span> very fast and luxuriant and possesses great feeding qualities. -The strangest but most valuable feature of this peculiar vegetation is -that it retains all its sweetness and nutrition after it is dead and -brown, and stock feed upon it with as much avidity in a dry and sapless -condition as they do when they find it in the green and juicy stage of -life and growth.</p> - -<p>“Away to the south, bounding this immense valley, is a wild and rocky -range of the Chiricahua Mountains, said to be from time immemorial the -rendezvous of renegades and desperadoes, one of the most noted being an -outlaw Apache Indian called the ‘Arizona Kid,’ whose depredations and -crimes were a terror to all the surrounding country. And were it only -light,” continued Mr. Steere, “I would show you one of the most notable -landmarks on the Southern Pacific Road. Away over to the south there, -clearly outlined against the sky, is a mountain formation that plainly -resembles the up-turned profile of a human face. It is called ‘Cochise’s -Head,’ bearing a strong likeness, it is said, to Cochise, the most noted -chieftain of the Apache tribe.”</p> - -<p>We have now reached what is known as “Territorial Line,” about midway -between the little stations of Stein’s Pass and San Simon. Conductor -Purcell kindly stops the train at this point, giving those who wish the -opportunity and privilege of gathering some mementoes of the occasion -and locality. I look at my watch; it is 11.20 P. M. “Philadelphia” time, -8.20 P. M. “Territorial Line” time; it is pretty dark for the business -on hand, but the post that marks the dividing line is easily found, and -in a very short time is so badly cut and splintered by the relic hunters -that it looks as though it had been struck by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_065" id="page_065"></a>{65}</span> lightning. Several -standing astride the designated and imaginary dividing line picked -pebbles from New Mexico and Arizona at the same time. In five minutes we -are on our way again, and in a short time thereafter the snores of the -tourists heard above the rumble of the train proclaim that “the weary -are at rest.”</p> - -<h3>TUESDAY, MAY 18th.</h3> - -<p>Got up this morning about the usual time and found that we had passed -Tucson in the early part of the morning and had changed engines at that -point. We have now S. P. engine No. 9030, Engineer J. W. Bunce and -Fireman J. Weir, who run us to Yuma, a distance of 251 miles. It cannot -always be day, nor we cannot always be awake, so when night comes and we -sleep we miss much that is novel and interesting. “You have missed much -since entering Arizona that is well worth seeing,” I hear Mr. Steere -remark to several of the party with whom he is conversing as I enter the -smoker. “During the night we have passed through the most wonderful -cactus country in the world, many of the plants rising to the height of -thirty and forty feet; but you will see similar plants should you pass -through the Antelope Valley, Cal., in daytime after leaving Los Angeles. -You also missed seeing the town of Benson, which is one of the important -places on this line, where we connect with the New Mexico and Arizona -and the Arizona and Southwestern Railroads; and it is really too bad -that you did not get at least a passing look at Tucson, for there is -only one Tucson in the world. It is one of the oldest and queerest -places<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_066" id="page_066"></a>{66}</span> in the United States, and a place with a history. The population -is estimated to be about 8000, and nearly all of the residences are of -adobe construction. Claims are made that it was first settled by the -Spanish in 1560.” A call to breakfast interrupted Mr. Steere’s -interesting talk as we all make a break for the dining car.</p> - -<p>All the morning we have been descending the Gila River Valley, and the -picturesque, complex scenery of mountain, plain, and valley has been -much enjoyed by all. As we approach Yuma, situated on the Colorado -River, in the extreme southwestern corner of Arizona, we can scarcely -realize that in the 251 miles we have come since leaving Tucson we have -dropped from an altitude of 2390 feet to that of 140 feet, the elevation -of Yuma, but such is the case, according to the figures given on the -time table of the Southern Pacific Railroad which I hold in my hand, and -which Captain Purcell and Mr. Steere both declare is correct beyond a -shadow of doubt, adding “that the Southern Pacific Railroad Company was -never known to publish a falsehood or make a mistake.”</p> - -<p>We arrive at Yuma 12.30 P. M. Eastern (9.30 A. M. Pacific), and make a -stop of fifteen minutes. The station is a low-built, commodious -building, surrounded on three sides by extensive grounds in which -flowers are blooming in profusion. A number of bouquets were gathered by -the ladies. Several native Indians are about the station having for sale -trinkets and toys of their own manufacture. It is a strange and novel -sight to behold these old remnants of an almost extinct race and tribe -dressed in the scant and grotesque garb of their nativity, with their -faces and the exposed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_067" id="page_067"></a>{67}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing066a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing066a_sml.jpg" width="316" height="252" alt="Image not available: ARIZONA LANDSCAPE." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ARIZONA LANDSCAPE.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing066b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing066b_sml.jpg" width="318" height="281" alt="Image not available: “YUMA BILL,” INDIAN CHIEF AT YUMA, OVER 100 YEARS OLD." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">“YUMA BILL,” INDIAN CHIEF AT YUMA, OVER 100 YEARS OLD.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">parts of their limbs and bodies painted and tattooed with bright and -varied colors, increasing tenfold their natural ugliness, which showing -to its best advantage, unassisted by art, is far above par. Yuma Bill, -the biggest, oldest, and ugliest of the lot, seems to claim the most -attention, and as I see him coming down the station platform and -entering the waiting-room door, bareheaded and barefooted, with a -bright-striped blanket about him, I think of Mark Twain’s story of his -visit to the camp of Sitting Bull. “The old chief saw me coming,” says -Mark, “and he came to meet me. I had pictured him in my mind as an old -warrior covered with glory; I found him clothed with the nobility of his -race, assisted by an old horse blanket, one corner of which hid his -approach and the other corner covered his retreat.” Similar characters -are Yuma Bill and his pals, and if ever “Mark” encounters them he will -be strongly reminded of his notable interview with the famous Sitting -Bull.</p> - -<p>We all buy trinkets of Bill, for we never expect to see him again and we -don’t want to forget him. We are told that he is a good old Indian, but -was not always so. Years ago, when there were battles to be won, Bill -made a record as a fighter. He will fight no more; there are only a few -of him left; and Uncle Sam has given him and his comrades a refuge in a -little reservation across the river where they hope to live and die in -quietness and peace.</p> - -<p>A short distance back of the station can be seen the territorial prison -or penitentiary, on a bluff overlooking the Colorado River. We thought -it was a fort until told that it was a prison. Our train is about to -start,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_068" id="page_068"></a>{68}</span> and we find a large car or tank of water attached on the front -end next the engine and a freight caboose on the rear. We find that a -freight crew has charge of us, that the tank of water will be needed to -supply the engine, as there is a run of 120 miles through a country -devoid of water, and that the crew will need the caboose when they leave -us, for they expect to take back from Indio a train of freight. We have -S. P. engine No. 1609, with Engineer W. Hayes at the throttle, fired by -George McIntyre, Conductor H. J. Williams, Brakemen H. J. Schulte and R. -M. Armour. As our train moves slowly off across the bridge that spans -the Colorado we take a last look at Yuma and its picturesque -surroundings, and in two minutes we are in California and crossing the -Colorado Desert.</p> - -<p>We are disappointed. We thought California a land of beauty, fertility, -and flowers—a desert waste is all we see, bald mountains and barren -plains on every side. Our course is upward for about 25 miles, until an -elevation of 400 feet is reached, and then we begin to descend, and when -we pass the little station of Flowing Well, 60 miles west of Yuma, we -are only five feet above the level of the sea. Ten miles farther we stop -at Volcano Springs and are 225 feet below the sea level. After leaving -Flowing Well our attention was called by Mr. Steere to what was -apparently a large lake of clear, sparkling water ahead, and to the left -of our train, about half a mile away. We were running toward it but got -no closer to it. It remained there, the same distance from us, a bright, -sparkling, rippling body of water; not one on the train but what would -have said, “It is water.” Mr. Steere says, “No; it is not water;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_069" id="page_069"></a>{69}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing068_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing068_sml.jpg" width="315" height="519" alt="Image not available: THE CALIFORNIA POPPY." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE CALIFORNIA POPPY.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">it is a delusion, a mirage caused by the glare of the sun on the shining -salt crust of this alkali desert. There is not much doubt,” continued -Mr. Steere, “but what ages upon ages ago all this immense basin was the -bottom of a great sea. You can see upon the sides of these barren bluffs -and upon those walls of rock the mark of the water line that for -thousands of years perhaps have withstood the ravages and test of time. -This little station is called Volcano Springs because of the number of -springs in this locality that are apparently of volcanic origin. They -are not in operation at the present time, but certain seasons of the -year they are very active and spout up mud and water to a height of from -10 to 25 feet.”</p> - -<p>A thermometer hanging in the doorway of the station, in the shade, -registers 101 degrees, and it is not unusual, we are told, for it to -reach 125. It is actually too hot in the sun to stand still; it almost -takes one’s breath away. We feel relieved when our train starts and we -are in motion once more. We create a breeze, a sea breeze, as it were, -wafted to us o’er the mummified saliniferous remains of an ancient sea -3000 years a corpse. But the “mirage” still is there, a wonderful -delusion, a monstrous deception, a gigantic “Will o’ the wisp,” whose -alluring promises have led hundreds of men and animals a fruitless chase -that ended in horrid death.</p> - -<p>Sixty-five miles ahead of us we can plainly see San Jacinto Mountain, -towering 11,500 feet in the air, with its summit covered with ice and -snow that glistens in the noonday sun. Twenty-four miles from Volcano -Springs we pass Salton, noted for its great salt industry. This is the -lowest point on the line of the Southern Pacific<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_070" id="page_070"></a>{70}</span> Railroad, being 263 -feet below sea level. About three miles to the left of the railroad we -see the great white salt marsh or lake, containing such a vast deposit -of this useful substance that the supply is thought to be inexhaustible. -Steam plows are used for gathering the salt, and the works erected here -have a capacity of nearly 1000 tons per day.</p> - -<p>Twenty-five miles from Salton we reach Indio, where a short stop is made -to change engines. Indio is a veritable oasis in the desert. After miles -and miles of desert dust and glaring sand, it is very refreshing to see -again trees and grass and flowers. We are still 20 feet below the level -of the sea, but good water has been found here, and plenty of it applied -to the soil has worked wonders. Whatever is planted grows with rapidity -and in profusion, and with an abundance of water Indio can look forward -to fast increasing beauty and prosperity. It has been discovered that -the climate here is very beneficial to consumptives, and Indio has -already become noted as a resort for those afflicted with pulmonary -trouble, and it is claimed some very remarkable cures have been -effected.</p> - -<p>We leave Indio at 4.15 P. M. Eastern (1.15 P. M. Pacific), with S. P. -engine No. 1397. Engineer Ward Heins, Fireman J. A. Shanehan; Conductor -Williams and his brakemen will continue on to Los Angeles with us, 130 -miles further.</p> - -<p>Soon after leaving Indio we ascend a grade of 120 feet to the mile and -pass along the base of San Jacinto Mountain, with its summit frowning -down upon us from a height of 11,500 feet. The snow can now be plainly -seen upon its highest peaks, and rivulets and cataracts<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_071" id="page_071"></a>{71}</span> can be seen in -places dashing and leaping down its seamed and rugged sides.</p> - -<p>At Rimlon we get Engineer Eli Steavens and Fireman M. Anderson with -engine No. 1963 to assist us up a steep grade to Beaumont, a distance of -35 miles.</p> - -<p>At Palm Springs a short stop was made to take aboard some guests who -came to meet us from Los Angeles. They were Mr. G. L. Mead, Mr. H. -Kearney, and Mr. J. E. White. Mr. Mead is a merchant of Los Angeles who -heard of our coming and came to meet us to bid us welcome to the -“Paradise of America,” and to emphasize his expressions of good -feelings, presented the tourists with a case of very fine California -wine. Mr. Mead could have done nothing more in accord with the feelings -of the party. No wine ever tasted better, no wine ever did more good; it -is a medicine our systems crave after 150 miles of the scorching, -glaring, waterless Colorado Desert; a right thing in the right place; it -is appreciated far more than Mr. Mead will ever know. Mr. Kearney is a -promoter of stage lines and is about to establish a route between Palm -Springs and Virginia Dale, a distance of 71 miles. He is an interesting -gentleman to converse with, being perfectly familiar with all the -surrounding country. Mr. White is a transfer agent doing business in Los -Angeles, and is on hand to render aid to any of the party who may need -his services.</p> - -<p>We arrive at Beaumont and have reached the summit of the grade. In the -50 miles we have come since leaving Indio, we have made an ascent of -5280 feet. Our helper engine No. 1397 has left us; and we commence our -descent of the western slope of the San Bernardino<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_072" id="page_072"></a>{72}</span> Range. Mr. J. -Jacobs, a civil engineer in the employ of the Southern Pacific Railroad -Company, was invited to get aboard at Beaumont and accompany us to Los -Angeles. We find him a very agreeable guest, giving us a great deal of -entertaining information.</p> - -<p>We have passed from desert wastes into a rich agricultural district; -farmers are engaged in harvesting hundreds of acres of barley, which in -this region is cut while in a green state and cured for hay. We pass -many large fruit orchards of different varieties, while away in the -distance on every hand the mountains rear their snow-clad peaks to the -clouds. It is a grand and wonderful transformation from the scenes -through which we have lately passed, and needs to be seen to be -appreciated.</p> - -<p>“This section of country through which we are now passing,” observed Mr. -Jacobs, “is the famous Redlands district, a country that has shown far -greater development and been subject to more rapid improvements in the -same number of years than any other known section of its size in the -world. Ten years ago it was almost barren, and known only as a vast -sheep range; to-day, owing to a thorough system of irrigation, there are -nearly 30,000 acres of reclaimed land that bloom and blossom and bear -fruit with all the fertility, the beauty, and abundance of a tropical -garden.”</p> - -<p>We have now entered the orange district, and large groves are seen on -every hand, golden with the luscious fruit. At Pomona a halt of -sufficient length is made to allow several baskets of oranges to be put -on the train, which are distributed amongst the party and found to be -delicious and refreshing. We are unable to ascertain who are the -thoughtful donors, but all the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_073" id="page_073"></a>{73}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing072_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing072_sml.jpg" width="320" height="519" alt="Image not available: A CLUSTER OF NAVEL ORANGES, CALIFORNIA." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A CLUSTER OF NAVEL ORANGES, CALIFORNIA.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">same they have the most sincere thanks of the entire party for their -kindness and generosity.</p> - -<p>For 25 miles we pass through a fairyland of blooming loveliness, and at -8.45 P. M. Eastern (5.45 Pacific) our train rolls into the station in -Los Angeles, five days, five hours, and forty-five minutes late. On an -adjacent track a train is loading, and we learn it is the New York -Central excursion about ready to start for home. We exchange greetings -and cards with many of them before their train pulls out, bound for its -journey through the heat and dust of desert and plain, for they return -by the route we came, and we know what is in store for them.</p> - -<p>We begin to realize what we have missed by thus coming in at the -eleventh hour. We find we were saved from a watery grave in the raging -Rio Grande only to discover that we are here just in time to be too late -to participate in the “good times” all the other visitors have had. The -twenty-sixth session of the Grand Division of the “Order of Railway -Conductors” that we had expected to attend is about ready to adjourn; -the pleasure trips planned for the entertainment of members of the order -to all the surrounding points of interest have been taken, and we -weren’t “in it.” ’Tis rather a discouraging outlook, but with the true -Yankee spirit of self-reliance we quickly determine to make the best of -it, trusting our future to luck and Providence.</p> - -<p>Brothers Houston, Haefner, and myself start for Music Hall, No. 234 -South Spring Street, where the Convention is in session, and arrive five -minutes before its adjournment. We hear Brother Grand Chief Conductor E. -E. Clark make his closing speech. As<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_074" id="page_074"></a>{74}</span> the members of the Convention -commence to pour out of the hall into the street the greater part of our -folks arrive on the scene, and for more than an hour an impromptu -meeting is held on the sidewalk and on the street in front of the -building, where old friends are greeted and new friends are made; -everybody wants to exchange cards with everybody else; all are -good-natured, good-humored, and happy, and “perpetual friendship” seems -to be the ruling spirit of the hour. The crowd gradually disperses and -becomes scattered over the city, members of our party mingling with the -rest, seeing the sights and looking for souvenirs.</p> - -<p>Brother Ristein received a telegram that had been lying in the Los -Angeles office four days awaiting his arrival, telling him of the -serious illness of one of his children far away in his Delmar home, and -he is at the office now, anxiously awaiting a reply to a message of -inquiry sent as to the present condition of the child. Brother Ristein -fears the worst, and we all share his anxiety. Promptly the answer -flashes back, “The child is better and thought to be out of danger.” The -words make light a heavy heart, and we are all glad for Brother -Ristein’s sake.</p> - -<p>Our train occupies a track in the Arcade Station train shed for our -convenience, and by ten o’clock there are very few but what have turned -in. A few of the “boys” are still out, of course, but it is a hopeless -task to try and “keep tab” on them. We cannot do it. These nocturnal -outings of theirs will have to be noted down as “unwritten history.” How -much of it there will be we cannot tell. There has been considerable -already, of which we might mention one night at Fort<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_075" id="page_075"></a>{75}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing074_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing074_sml.jpg" width="512" height="316" alt="Image not available: WINTER IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">WINTER IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA.</span> -</div> - -<p>Worth, testing the efficacy of police protection while attempting to -follow a “blind trail”; four or five nights in El Paso chasing the -fleeting phantom of merry luck to the musical whirl of the wheel of -fortune. They are all right, these “boys” of ours, and they know a good -thing when they see it.</p> - -<h3>WEDNESDAY, MAY 19th.</h3> - -<p>We are all up bright and early this morning, and after breakfast parties -are formed to take in the sights. A number of us have decided to take a -tally-ho ride, and Brother Wyman has gone to procure the outfit. In a -short time he returns with the information that “the wagon will soon be -here.” It is not long until a fine roomy coach, drawn by six white -horses, reins up in front of the group, and we clamber in. There is just -room enough. We count the party and find there are fourteen, including -the driver. The team is from the Panorama Stables and driven by “Mac,” -the veteran stager and coachman, who knows every crook and turn in all -the highways and byways and drives and trails throughout Southern -California. “Mac” is a character; we try to draw him out, but he won’t -talk about himself, won’t even tell you his name, only that it is “Mac.” -He will tell you about everything else, and he is thoroughly posted. He -takes us through the principal streets of this most wonderful city, -rightly named “The town of the Queen of Angels.”</p> - -<p>Los Angeles lies amongst the foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountains, -with an average elevation of 300 feet above sea level, only 15 miles -from the coast, with an active, bustling business population of about -75,000<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_076" id="page_076"></a>{76}</span> inhabitants. The beauty and magnificence of this tropical -profusion through which we are passing is something we have heard of, -but never saw before, and we find we are helpless when we attempt to -describe it. In fancy and in dreams we have pictured “The Land of -Sunshine and Flowers,” but now, brought face to face with this marvelous -reality, the beautiful pictures of dreams and fancy pale into crudeness -and insignificance. Through avenues shaded on either side by rows of -palms, eucalyptus, and pepper trees, past rose-embowered cottages and -lawns filled with tropical plants, surrounded by hedges of roses and -calla lilies, we continue on our way out through the suburbs into the -rural districts, through the avenues of vast orange groves, the trees -loaded with luscious golden fruit, through beautiful Pasadena, and on -until “Mac” draws up at the famous ostrich farm, where we alight and go -in to look around.</p> - -<p>We spend about half an hour looking at the birds and two and a half -dollars in the purchase of feathers. Loading up, we start on our way -again, bound for “Lucky Baldwin’s” ranch, “the largest individual tract -of land,” says “Mac,” “in Southern California. It comprises 50,000 -acres, nearly all under a condition of cultivation and improvement.” -Here it is our pleasure to behold the largest and most wonderful orange -grove in the world. For miles we see nothing but orange trees and -oranges; the trees are loaded and the ground is covered with the yellow -fruit. We feast upon the beauty and grandeur of this unusual sight, with -lots of oranges thrown in. It is needless to state that we ate all we -could and loaded up the hack.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_077" id="page_077"></a>{77}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing076_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing076_sml.jpg" width="515" height="312" alt="Image not available: BROOKSIDE AVENUE, REDLANDS, CALIFORNIA." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">BROOKSIDE AVENUE, REDLANDS, CALIFORNIA.</span> -</div> - -<p>A few miles further on we arrive at the Bonita Hotel, belonging to the -ranch kept by Mrs. Warner, where the horses are taken from the coach and -fed and the party takes lunch. Large lawns surround the buildings filled -with many varieties of flowers, and we are given the privilege of -plucking all we want, and when we leave each lady carries a large -bouquet in her hand and each gentleman a smaller one in his buttonhole.</p> - -<p>Starting on our way again, the horses refreshed with rest and food, we -speed along lengthy drives and avenues, shaded by large Lombardy poplar -and eucalyptus trees, for about two miles, when we pass through a large -gateway over which is an arch in the form of an immense horse shoe, and -enter the stable grounds where Baldwin’s famous blooded horses are kept. -We are kindly received by the stableman, shown through the stalls, where -a number of the celebrated equines are seen. Brother Layfield evinces -such a surprising knowledge of horseflesh and shows so much interest in -the history of the different animals as related by the stableman that he -is presented by that courteous gentleman with a mule’s shoe as a -souvenir of the visit. Brother Kilgore is also interested in the horses -and would like to have a shoe; a search for one is unsuccessful, and so -long did Brother Kilgore remain in the stable looking for the -much-desired relic that he came near being left.</p> - -<p>Leaving the stable grounds, we drive a mile further to the palatial -residence and magnificent grounds of the renowned ruler of these -domains. Mr. Baldwin is not at home at the present time, but the place -is in charge of trusted employes. Leaving the coach, we walk through the -spacious grounds surrounding the princely mansion.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_078" id="page_078"></a>{78}</span> Paradise can hardly -be more beautiful and grand—the largest, the sweetest, the reddest -roses that ever delighted the sense of sight or smell, the grandest -trees, the most beautiful shrubbery bearing flowers of every kind and -color. Bordered with blooming lilies are lakes of water, clear as -crystal, on the surface of which graceful swans are swimming and in -whose depth gold and silver fish dart and dive. Fine fountains and -statuary intersperse the lawn, adding to its richness and beauty. -Mounted above a pedestal in a conspicuous spot we notice an old bell. It -is possessed of no beauty, and we wonder what it is for. We inquire of -an old man working near by, “Uncle, what is the old rusty bell for?” -“That old bell,” answered the old gentleman, removing his hat with a low -bow as he turns toward the object in question, “is the most valued thing -you see. It is a relic that money cannot buy. Mr. Baldwin prizes it very -highly, and we people all adore it.” As the old servant utters the last -words he makes another low courtesy. We begin to think he is a little -daft and are about to move on, when, straightening up and with -outstretched arm he points toward the old bell a bony, trembling finger, -and continues slowly and with emphasis, “That old bell came from the -chimes tower of the San Gabriel Mission. That is why we prize it; that -is why we love it.” We thought at first the old fellow bowed to us; we -know now that he bowed to the old bell out of respect and reverence, for -whatever is connected or associated with those old missions is looked -upon as something almost sacred by many of the people here, especially -those of the Roman faith.</p> - -<p>A whistle from “Mac” informs us we must be going,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_079" id="page_079"></a>{79}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing078a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing078a_sml.jpg" width="316" height="280" alt="Image not available: SAN GABRIEL MISSION, CALIFORNIA." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">SAN GABRIEL MISSION, CALIFORNIA.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing078b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing078b_sml.jpg" width="339" height="237" alt="Image not available: GIANT PALMS ON THE ROAD TO SAN GABRIEL." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">GIANT PALMS ON THE ROAD TO SAN GABRIEL.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and climbing into the ’bus the horses start off on a brisk trot and we -soon leave “Lucky Baldwin’s” ranch behind and enter “Sunny Slope” -vineyard, owned by L. J. Rose. This immense vineyard contains 1500 acres -and is traversed by beautiful avenues which divide this vast acreage of -grapevines into great squares.</p> - -<p>We are soon across this interesting tract and enter the grounds of the -vintage plant of the San Gabriel Wine Company. We were very courteously -treated and shown through the large establishment, the capacity of which -is 1,500,000 gallons of wine per year. Upon leaving we pass through -their vineyard, containing 1000 acres, which is near the vintage plant.</p> - -<p>As we approach the old San Gabriel Mission and “Mac” reins up his steeds -in front of the low, quaint building, I instinctively glance up at the -ancient belfry and find that two of the niches or arches where bells -once had swung are vacant. “Lucky Baldwin” has one of the bells; I -wonder who has the other. At this moment another tally-ho drives up and -stops, and we find it is a coaching party of our own people. We all -alight and enter the historic and sacred edifice. Those who are of the -faith render their acknowledgment with quiet, humble reverence; we who -are not stand silently by in an attitude of mute veneration. San Gabriel -stands fourth in the line of the twenty-one missions established in -California from July 16th, 1769, to April 25th, 1820, the date of its -establishment being September 8th, 1771.</p> - -<p>The party we encountered consists of Mr. and Mrs. Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs. -Maxwell, Mr. and Mrs. Reilly, Mr. and Mrs. Matthews, Mr. Reagan, Mr. -McCarty, Mr. Waddington, Mr. Taylor, Mr. Williams, and Mr.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_080" id="page_080"></a>{80}</span> Suter. They -occupy one of Hoag’s White Livery tally-ho coaches, followed by Mr. and -Mrs. Horner in a buggy. Our party consists of Mr. and Mrs. Wyman, Mr. -and Mrs. Kilgore, Mr. and Mrs. Layfield, Mr. and Mrs. McKernan, Mr. and -Miss Barrett, Mr. Crispen, Mrs. Shaw and myself.</p> - -<p>As we bowl along the level drive toward the city, after leaving the old -Mission, our conversation turns upon the pleasures of the day and of the -interesting and beautiful things we have seen. We are all well pleased -with our day’s outing, especially the Colonel, who is in a high good -humor, for had he not obtained what no one else could get, a substantial -memento of his visit to the famous Baldwin ranch? “I am going to have -this shoe decorated with ribbon and hung up in my parlor,” asserts the -Colonel, as he searches in the bottom of the coach for his prize. “I -guess not,” exclaims Mrs. Shaw, as she gives him a dig in the ribs with -her elbow, “that’s my shoe you’ve got hold of.” “But where’s my horse -shoe? Has any one got it? Has any one seen my horse shoe?” excitedly -inquires the Colonel, as he makes another dive into the bottom of the -coach. “I think it flew away,” quietly remarks Mrs. Wyman, as she draws -her feet up and out of the way. “Who ever saw a shoe fly,” snaps the -Colonel, as he continues rummaging in the bottom of the vehicle. “I -have,” answers Manager Wyman, removing his hat, exposing a pate as -devoid of hair and as bald as a door knob, from which he brushes an -imaginary fly. “I saw a horse fly, but didn’t notice if he had shoes -on,” observes Mrs. McKernan, keeping her eye on the Colonel, who is -growing desperate in his failure to find<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_081" id="page_081"></a>{81}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing080_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing080_sml.jpg" width="516" height="318" alt="Image not available: AN AVENUE IN PASADENA, CALIFORNIA." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">AN AVENUE IN PASADENA, CALIFORNIA.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">his treasure. But it was gone; it had escaped from the bottom of the -coach in some way, and we all sympathize with Brother Layfield in his -bereavement, now that we find he has actually lost his valued souvenir.</p> - -<p>We enter the city through East Side Park, which is a most beautiful and -delightful drive. We bid goodbye to “Mac” and his spanking team and -hurry to our dining car, where we arrive just in time for one of -McDonald’s dandy dinners, which we heartily enjoy after such a busy day. -We find a number of our party had taken trips similar to our own, and -over nearly the same route; others had ascended Mt. Lowe, been away -above the clouds; some had taken a run down to Santa Monica and sported -in the surf of the Pacific; some to Santa Catalina Island, the alleged -“Garden of Eden” of the Pacific coast. All express themselves as having -had an exceedingly good time and are laying plans for the morrow. There -are many places we would like to visit and many things we would like to -see, but our time is too limited “to take it all in,” for we are to -leave here to-morrow at 2.00 P. M. We have friends in San Diego we had -intended to visit and there are fish at Catalina Island we had expected -to catch; both friends and fish will have to charge their disappointment -or pleasure, as the case may be, to the turbid waters of the Rio Grande.</p> - -<p>Dinner being over, the most of our people take a walk up town and enjoy -a promenade through the brilliantly-lighted streets, admiring the -handsomely-furnished stores, with goods and wares arranged and exposed -in so tempting a manner that many trinkets and knicknacks are purchased -for souvenirs. Returning to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_082" id="page_082"></a>{82}</span> the train at an early hour and hearing such -a favorable account of the trip to Mt. Lowe from some who were there -to-day, we conclude to join a party that is going in the morning and -“take it in.” One by one and two by two our people keep dropping in like -unto the oft-mentioned fowls that “come home to roost,” until only a few -of the “boys,” as usual, are left outside the fold, and to them I need -again ascribe “<i>unwritten history</i>.” As I leave the smoker to retire to -my berth in the “Marco” I see our faithful George H. (Alfalfa) Anderson -making up his bed, under the pillow of which he carefully places our -“artillery,” and I feel we are as safe as though surrounded by a cordon -of Gatling guns.</p> - -<h3>THURSDAY, MAY 20th.</h3> - -<p>Arose early this morning and found the weather not very favorable for -our contemplated trip to Mt. Lowe, being cloudy and somewhat foggy, but -we concluded to go, so after breakfast the party, consisting of Mr. and -Mrs. Wyman, Mr. and Mrs. Layfield, Mr. and Miss Barrett, Mr. Kilgore, -Mr. Sloane, Mr. Haas, Mr. Crispen, Mr. Denniston, two guests—Miss R. -Stradling and Mr. A. L. Bailey—George H. Alfalfa Anderson, and myself, -under the escort of Brother Ed. Butcher, of Los Angeles Division No. -111, who is a passenger conductor on the Los Angeles Terminal Road, -boarded a car at 10.00 A. M. Eastern (7.00 A. M. Pacific) on the -Pasadena and Los Angeles Electric Railway, conducted by W. A. Brown, and -started on a never-to-be-forgotten trip to Mt. Lowe.</p> - -<p>Out through the suburbs of Los Angeles, with its<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_083" id="page_083"></a>{83}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing082_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing082_sml.jpg" width="318" height="514" alt="Image not available: GREAT CABLE INCLINE, MT. LOWE RAILWAY." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">GREAT CABLE INCLINE, MT. LOWE RAILWAY.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">beautiful rose-embowered cottages and palatial residences and lawns of -palms and tropical shrubbery, on through miles of country districts, -rich with groves of golden fruit, through eden—Pasadena to Altadena, -where we change cars for another electric road that carries us for about -three miles over hill and dale, through ravines and across -frightful-looking chasms, but always tending upward, until at an -elevation of 2200 feet Rubio Cañon is reached and we are at the foot of -the great cable incline, claimed to be the most wonderful cable road in -the world, extending from Rubio Pavilion to Echo Mountain, a distance of -3000 feet. It makes a direct ascent of 1350 feet. Looking up at the -wonderful construction it seems to almost pierce the sky; its summit is -enshrouded in a veil of fog that hides it from our view.</p> - -<p>“I don’t quite like the looks of that,” ventures Brother Kilgore, -looking over his glasses with a scrutinizing glance, as his eyes follow -the great incline up to where it is lost in the fog. “I guess it’s all -right; I don’t think we’ll find it as terrifying as it looks to be; -anyhow, the proof of the pudding is in eating it, and I for one am going -up,” answers Brother Sloane. “Charlie, if you go I will go,” responds -his bosom friend and chum, Brother Haas. “There is no danger I will not -share with you, and perhaps we can see some mountain goats.”</p> - -<p>“Or capture a deer,” adds Brother Denniston, who is keeping pretty close -to Miss Stradling, for that young lady looks as though she needs -sympathy and companionship in this trying ordeal.</p> - -<p>“Do you think it’s safe, Charlie?” quietly inquires<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_084" id="page_084"></a>{84}</span> Mrs. Wyman of her -husband as we start to ascend to the landing where we board the car. -“Yes, perfectly safe,” replies Manager Wyman. “Human skill and ingenuity -can make it no safer. They claim they never had an accident since the -road has been in operation. The cable by which these cars are drawn has -been tested to stand a strain of 100 tons, and the cars when loaded do -not weigh five tons, so there is no danger at all.” “If I thought there -was the least danger I wouldn’t go up,” utters Brother Layfield, “but I -know there isn’t a bit.” Mrs. Layfield makes no comment, but clings -nervously to the Colonel’s arm. The rest of the party follow without any -apparent trepidation with the exception of “Alfalfa,” who looks a trifle -pale.</p> - -<p>We are all comfortably seated in the “White Chariot” car, which is -constructed without canopy or covering, with seats arranged in -amphitheatre style, one above the other, facing the foot of the incline, -an excellent arrangement for affording an unobstructed view.</p> - -<p>The signal is given, the machinery is set in motion, and quietly and -smoothly we start on our trip toward the sky.</p> - -<p>“Those mountain peaks you see just beyond Rubio Cañon are called the -‘Rubio Amphitheatre,’ ” explains the guide who accompanied the car. “You -will notice that as we ascend those mountains seem to rise one after -another and follow us.” We did notice them; we were looking right at -them and couldn’t help it. It was an optical illusion that was rather -startling. We thought at first that the mountains would overtake us, but -they didn’t. “This is ‘Granite Gorge,’ ” continues the guide, as we enter -a great cut that rears its granite walls on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_085" id="page_085"></a>{85}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing084_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing084_sml.jpg" width="518" height="320" alt="Image not available: ECHO MOUNTAIN HOUSE AND CAR ON THE 48 PER CENT. GRADE, -MT. LOWE RAILWAY." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ECHO MOUNTAIN HOUSE AND CAR ON THE 48 PER CENT. GRADE, -MT. LOWE RAILWAY.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">either side of us and lose sight of the mountains that are chasing us. -“The workmen on this road were eight months in hewing this passage -through these rocks, and before a tie or rail was laid they had to -clamber to these rugged heights and carry their implements with them, -and much of the material used in the construction of the road, such as -water, cement, and lumber, had to be carried on the backs of burros and -on the shoulders of men. This bridge that we are now crossing is called -the MacPherson Trestle, and there is no other bridge like it in the -world. It is 200 feet long and 100 feet higher at one end than the -other. If it were not for the clouds you could obtain a good scenic view -from here.” Clouds! We had not thought of it before, so interested were -we in the talk of our guide, but we notice now that the sun is shining, -and looking up we see no vestige of a cloud in the bright, blue sky -above.</p> - -<p>Looking again, beneath and beyond us, such a sight meets our gaze as our -eyes had never rested on before. A vast white sea of billowy vapor -overhangs the great San Gabriel Valley and hides it from our view. This -alone is worth the trip to see—an immense heaving sea of clouds, an -ocean of fleecy vapor billows that surge and roll and toss as though -seeking for a shore of sand and rock upon which to spend their restless -force. Halting at the summit of the great cable incline, we find we have -arrived at the Echo Mountain House, where we change cars, taking an -electric road called the Alpine Division of the Mt. Lowe Railway, which -extends from Echo Mountain to Mt. Lowe Springs, where “Ye Alpine Tavern” -is located.</p> - -<p>As we board the Alpine Division observation car I<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_086" id="page_086"></a>{86}</span> again cast my eyes -over toward the San Gabriel Valley, where a few minutes before we had -beheld the battle of the clouds. What a grand transformation! The clouds -have been dispersed as though by magic, and lying spread out in the -valley 3500 feet beneath us is a panorama of such incomparable and -inconceivable beauty and loveliness that we gaze for a moment -enraptured, speechless, spellbound, dazed. They must be all looking, for -there hasn’t been a word uttered for a minute. I am feasting my eyes on -the supreme beauty of the scenery and drinking deeply at the fountain of -delight; at the same time I’m trying to count the squares in the city of -Pasadena and the orange groves that dot the valley. “It’s all there, but -it’s a good ways off,” remarks Charlie Sloane, breaking the spell of -silence. “My gracious! isn’t that fine? It beats looking across Jersey -through the crown of Billy Penn’s hat,” exclaims George Alfalfa in a -guarded tone.</p> - -<p>The electric current is turned on, our car starts quietly off, and for -four miles we pass over the most wonderfully constructed railway in the -world. We do not go very fast—in fact, we would rather not, for taking -everything into consideration this is not very good ground for -“scorching,” and going at a gentle, easy pace lessens our chances of -being rolled a few thousand feet down the side of a mountain. Not that -any of us are afraid of being “dumped”; we didn’t come up here to be -scared, but out of curiosity to see what it is like, and the more slowly -the car moves the better able we are to see and the longer we can look -at what we do see.</p> - -<p>This entire roadbed, hewn out of the sides of the mountain, forms a -solid granite ledge upon which the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_087" id="page_087"></a>{87}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing086_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing086_sml.jpg" width="314" height="516" alt="Image not available: MT. LOWE RAILWAY, CALIFORNIA." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">MT. LOWE RAILWAY, CALIFORNIA.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">road is built, and it is always a towering wall of rock on one side and -a yawning chasm on the other. To this there is but one exception, the -“Grand Circular Bridge.” From this structure you can look from both -sides down into the depths. If you don’t want to look you can shut your -eyes.</p> - -<p>Professor Lowe has constructed this railway at a cost of many hundred -thousand dollars to enable tourists to penetrate the heart of the Sierra -Madre Mountain, that they may form some conception of what an isolated -mountain wilderness is like. It is all here and ever-present, in -boundless, grand profusion—mountains, wilderness, isolation—an -awe-inspiring, infinite trinity of grandeur, that almost makes your head -swim and your heart stand still. Our tracks shelve the very summit of -the sloping walls of mighty cañons, and you can look down 3000 feet into -their wooded depths.</p> - -<p>We arrive in due time at Mt. Lowe Springs, the terminus of the road, and -are 5000 feet above the level of the sea. From here we can see the -summit of Mt. Lowe, two miles away and 1000 feet above us. It is -intended to extend the tracks to this point in the near future. A bridle -path leads to it, and you can make the trip now on the back of a burro. -A pathway leads to “Inspiration Point,” half a mile away, from which it -is said magnificent views can be had. Our time is limited; we hasten to -the famous spring, drink of its ice-cold water, and then visit the -homelike, cozy club house, “Ye Alpine Tavern,” and give it a hurried -inspection.</p> - -<p>Nestling among giant oaks and pines, it occupies a romantic and -picturesque location; in style of architecture it is attractive and -unique, being something on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_088" id="page_088"></a>{88}</span> order of a Swiss chalet. It is two and a -half stories in height, with ground dimensions of 40 by 80 feet; -contains 20 bed rooms, a large dining room, billiard hall, and kitchen. -It is built of granite and Oregon pine, finished in the natural color of -the wood. The design of the main hall or dining room is the most -striking feature connected with the construction of the building. -Artistically located around the room in uniform order are five cheerful -open fireplaces, in the largest of which swings a mammoth iron pot on a -huge crane. It is 7 feet high and 12 feet wide. Blocks of granite have -been placed in its corners for seats, and over the mantel above it is -the somewhat flattering but old-time hospitable inscription, “<span class="smcap">Ye -ornament of a house is ye guest who doth frequent it</span>.” On one side of -this mantel is a brick oven of ancient design; on the other side is a -receptacle of peculiar and unique construction and suspicious -appearance, which no doubt contains the liquid nourishment of the -establishment.</p> - -<p>“I wonder what they keep in this funny-looking cupboard,” whispers -Brother Kilgore in my ear, as we were looking around in the dining room.</p> - -<p>“Suppose we look and see,” I reply, as I attempt to open the door. “No, -you don’t; it’s fastened. I’ll see who’s got the key,” is the rejoinder -as he hurriedly walks away. Passing outside, I notice a number of the -party are getting aboard the car, and as I join them the motorman shouts -“All aboard.” “Are our people all here?” asks Manager Wyman, as he casts -his eyes over the crowd. “Brother Denniston isn’t here. I think he went -to Inspiration Point,” replies Brother Barrett. “Nor Brother Kilgore,” I -add. “He went to look for a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_089" id="page_089"></a>{89}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing088_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing088_sml.jpg" width="514" height="319" alt="Image not available: CIRCULAR BRIDGE, MT. LOWE RAILWAY, CALIFORNIA." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">CIRCULAR BRIDGE, MT. LOWE RAILWAY, CALIFORNIA.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">man with a key.” “I’m here,” says Brother Kilgore, as he emerges from -the door of the “Tavern,” wiping his mouth in a suspicious manner; at -the same time Brother Denniston and his “company” are seen coming from -toward the “spring” and soon we are “all aboard” and “homeward bound.” -At one point on our descent three or four mountain goats are seen on the -track ahead of us, but on our approach they quickly disappear from sight -in the thicket. It is with difficulty that Brothers Sloane and Haas can -be restrained from leaping overboard and giving chase. Thirty minutes -stop at Echo Mountain gives us an opportunity of visiting the beautiful -hotel at this point, the “Echo Mountain House,” which is located on the -summit of Echo Mountain and is said to be one of the finest equipped -mountain hotels in the world. From its veranda and balcony hundreds of -visitors daily view with rapture and delight the wonderful scenery of -the San Gabriel Valley and its surroundings. A small cannon fired off on -the lawn has a startling effect, and proves that the mountain is not -misnamed. The report echoes from peak to peak and then seems to go -bounding and tumbling down the cañons and ravines, growing fainter and -fainter until it gradually dies away in the distance.</p> - -<p>The great “World’s Fair search light,” purchased by Professor Lowe and -established on Echo Mountain, is operated nightly for the pleasure and -entertainment of visitors. The power of its light is that of 3,000,000 -candles and its rays can be seen for 150 miles on the Pacific Ocean. Its -beams falling upon a newspaper 35 miles away will enable a person to -easily read it. Our time is up, and boarding the “White Chariot” we -commence<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_090" id="page_090"></a>{90}</span> our descent of the great cable incline, reaching the bottom in -safety. A photographer is on hand and “pressed the button” on the car -and contents.</p> - -<p>On our trip to and fro to-day we passed in sight of the beautiful home -of Professor Lowe, near Pasadena, and returning I had the pleasure and -honor of meeting and conversing with him during the twenty minutes we -rode together on the Pasadena and Los Angeles Electric Railway. I was -introduced to the professor by Brother Edward Butcher, and we took a -seat together. He is a large man of fine appearance and carries himself -with the graceful mien of a brigadier-general; his eye is bright and -kind, his voice gentle and agreeable, and we are the best of friends in -a minute. “Professor,” I remarked, “there are but a very few of the -people, I warrant, who ascend that marvelous cable incline, who enjoy -the pleasure and excitement of that unequaled ride among the wild, -magnificent mountain scenery of your Alpine Division on a comfortable -trolley car, that ever give a second thought to the men who endured -hardships and risked their lives to even survey a road like that. I have -thought of this several times to-day, and would like to ask how you ever -induced men to traverse those cliffs and peaks and cañon walls, where a -mountain goat can hardly secure a footing?” “Well,” answered the -professor, “you know there are no hardships so severe they will not be -endured, no risks so great they will not be taken, if only men have a -leader to follow and are well paid for following him. Long before a -measurement was taken or a stake was driven, when the idea that such a -road were possible first entered my mind, I spent many days with only an -employed attendant my companion,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_091" id="page_091"></a>{91}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing090_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing090_sml.jpg" width="512" height="315" alt="Image not available: YE ALPINE TAVERN, MT. LOWE, CALIFORNIA." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">YE ALPINE TAVERN, MT. LOWE, CALIFORNIA.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">in making my way from Rubio Cañon to the crest of the highest peak along -the route which you traveled with so much pleasure to-day in less than -90 minutes. I headed every surveying party that went out in the interest -of the enterprise. I have personally directed all the operations that -have required engineering skill and experience; I have expended almost -one and a half millions of dollars, and my work isn’t completed yet.” -“That is an enormous sum of money to invest in a venture, or rather an -experiment, that you don’t know will pay till you try it,” I ventured to -assert, while secretly admiring the indomitable courage and spirit of -the man. “Yes, it is a great deal of money,” was the reply, and I -imagined that a sigh accompanied the words. “As a financial scheme I -believe it will be a failure. I have no hope of ever getting out of it -what money I have put in it, but to me this is only a secondary matter. -I’ve watched a vague visionary dream grow into a bright reality; I’ve -had cherished theories, condemned as insane and impracticable, converted -into substantial facts; I have solved the greatest engineering and -mechanical problems that ever taxed the brain of man; I’ve won the -hardest, toughest intellectual battle that ever was fought; I’ve had an -all-absorbing ambition gratified, and I feel that I have, in a measure, -got the worth of my money.” As the professor ceased speaking there was a -bright look in his eye and a happy expression on his countenance as -though it were a great pleasure to reflect on the great work he had -accomplished. The car was approaching his destination; he arose to go -and extended his hand. As I took it he said, “When you come again you -can extend your ride to the summit of the mountain, for I<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_092" id="page_092"></a>{92}</span> propose to -complete the work in a short time; and you must stay longer, for in your -hurried trip to-day there is much you didn’t see, and I would wish that -you could see it all; goodbye.” The car stopped and he was gone. As he -disappeared from view I said to myself, “There goes a wonderful man.”</p> - -<p>Continuing a few blocks further we left the car and visited the Chamber -of Commerce and spent half an hour among its interesting relics and -curiosities. When we reach our train the most of our people are there, -the time for starting being almost up. We bid adieu to the kind friends -we have made while here, and who did all they could to make our short -stay a pleasant one, and at 5.00 P. M. Eastern (2.00 P. M. Pacific) we -pull out of the station at Los Angeles bound for San Francisco and the -“Golden Gate,” 482 miles away.</p> - -<p>We are still on the Southern Pacific’s famous “Sunset Route,” which we -have followed since leaving Sierra Blanca. S. P. engine No. 1826 is -pulling us, with Engineer Charlie Hill at the throttle. She is fired by -E. Homes, who has a hard task on hand, for there are steep grades to -climb and our train is heavy. William Perkins is conducting the train; -the brakemen are J. B. Freet and F. W. Bunnell. These three gentlemen -are brothers of the “Order” and members of El Capitan Division No. 115, -of San Francisco. They are members of the entertainment committee from -that division and have been selected to run our train that they may be -able to look after our welfare. J. C. Fielding, also a member of El -Capitan Division and of the committee, is a guest on the train, along -with Brother Twist,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_093" id="page_093"></a>{93}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing092_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing092_sml.jpg" width="319" height="361" alt="Image not available: T. S. C. LOWE." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">T. S. C. LOWE.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">of Golden Gate Division No. 364, of Oakland, Cal., also a member of the -committee.</p> - -<p>Following the course of Los Angeles River as we leave the “City of -Angels” behind us, we pass for quite a distance through a fine farming -country, where hundreds of acres of barley are being gathered for hay -into great heaps and stacks.</p> - -<p>“Brother Freet,” I ask, as we sit near the wide-open door of the baggage -compartment looking out on the fleeting landscape, “do they feed their -stock altogether on barley hay in California?” “Not entirely. What makes -you think so?” is the inquiring answer. “It looks so from the fact that -in all the arable country we have passed through since entering this -State, outside of fruit and flower culture, I have noticed no other -product than barley, with the exception of a few patches of alfalfa -grass,” I reply. “You are right,” is the response, “so far as concerns -that part of the country you have seen; although if you traverse the -State from end to end you will see comparatively little of it. There are -sections of California where abundant crops of corn are raised, but -while it has never achieved distinction as a corn producing State, it is -second to no State in the Union in its yield of wheat. The entire area -of the State of Indiana would be insufficient to cover the wheat fields -of California, which yielded last year almost 40,000,000 bushels; but -speaking of barley, cut as it is in a green state after the grain has -formed and cured for hay, it makes a valuable and nourishing food for -stock, upon which they will fatten without additional grain feed.”</p> - -<p>Since leaving Los Angeles our course has been upward,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_094" id="page_094"></a>{94}</span> and now as we -pass the little station of Fernando, we are close to the San Fernando -Range, 25 miles northwest of Los Angeles and over 1100 feet above it. A -tunnel one and one-quarter miles in length pierces the above-named -range, and into this we now plunge. It is a dark hole, an undesirable -place to be; our train runs slowly, and the cars become filled with -smoke and gas that is almost suffocating; we do no talking and as little -breathing as possible for an interval of ten or twelve minutes, when we -again emerge into the open air and sunshine and breathe freely once -more. We have left the scenes of agricultural industry behind us and -again enter a region of unproductive sterility and aridity. We pass -through the little town of Saugus, from which place a branch road runs -to Santa Barbara, yet the country don’t improve. We are strongly -reminded of the Colorado Desert: alkali dust, glaring sand, stunted sage -brush, and cactus on every hand. The elevation here is about 3000 feet -higher than the Colorado Desert, but the conditions seem about the same.</p> - -<p>Midway between Saugus and Mojave we enter the western border of the -Great Mojave Desert, which we follow for several miles; here we are -treated to novel, interesting, and remarkable scenery. On the right as -far as the range of vision extends stretches the vast Mojave Desert, -with its lavish growth of magnificent giant cactus, many of them from 25 -to 40 feet in height, with branched and bushy tops, from the centre of -which in many cases can be seen protruding an immense pinkish bloom.</p> - -<p>This great desert, with its wonderful and peculiar<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_095" id="page_095"></a>{95}</span> plant life, extends, -we are told, away off hundreds of miles into Nevada and Arizona. On the -left the scenery is different. You gaze off and across the great -Antelope Valley, 80 miles in width, level as a floor and almost devoid -of tree or bush. It looks brown and barren, but we are informed it is -considered good grazing territory. The grass, though dead and dry at -certain seasons of the year, like that of the San Simon Valley in -Arizona, retains all its nutritious qualities and flavor, and stock feed -upon it with apparent relish.</p> - -<p>Owing to unfavorable natural conditions and surroundings, it is hardly -expected that we will encounter a very extensive population, but what -few people we do meet who are residents of the country are principally -employees of the railroad company, around whose stations usually cluster -a group of snug and neat-looking cottages built by the company for the -use of the men and their families. Good water can be obtained at a -reasonable depth, and wind mills are used for pumping. Patches of ground -are irrigated and cultivated, upon which are grown flowers, fruit, and -vegetables. Our train slows up and stops for water at one of these oases -in the desert, and looking out the window I discover that it is quite a -town. A number of our people have left the train and are looking around.</p> - -<p>Alighting from the train in front of the station I look up and see the -old familiar homelike name of Lancaster above the door. Everything bears -evidence of thrift and good living, even to an almost empty ice-cream -can that sits inside the waiting-room door, and which, with other -things, is being inspected and investigated. Time is up, “All aboard” is -shouted, we scramble on, and as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_096" id="page_096"></a>{96}</span> train moves off Brother Houston, -who is fast in the ice-cream can, came near being left. At Mojave, -another thrifty town of considerable size, where connections are made -with the Atlantic and Pacific Railway, our train stops to attach a -helper engine. After a delay of five minutes we resume our journey, -assisted by Engineer Cain and Fireman Curren with engine No. 1808.</p> - -<p>As we leave Mojave it is growing dusk, and by the time we reach the -summit of the grade and stop at Tehachapi it has become quite dark. This -we all exceedingly regret, for we are now about to enter upon the most -wonderful and interesting 33 miles of road on the whole Southern Pacific -system, where we drop from an elevation of 4025 feet to that of 672. -Making the descent of 3553 feet requires an almost continual application -of the air brakes, which heats the brake shoes red hot and makes the -fire fly. We feel concerned and wish we could see. We know at one time -we are going around a sharp curve and at another time pitching down a -grade much steeper than usual, and very often we find we are doing both -at one and the same time. We look out of the window on one side and see -a towering mountain wall, so near you can touch it with your hand; we -look out on the other side, and see nothing, only a seemingly -illimitable depth, filled with darkness and uncertainty; and this is the -grand, picturesque Tehachapi Pass, whose sinuous windings, devious ways, -complex maneuvering, and bewildering curves compels the railroad to run -over top and underneath itself, forming the extraordinary famous Loop.</p> - -<p>We had heard much of it, and we all expected to see it; our only hope -and desire now is to get safely away<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_097" id="page_097"></a>{97}</span> from it and beyond it to straight -track and level country once more. All good things must have an ending, -and bad things can’t last forever, so the novelty and excitement of our -toboggan-like mountain ride and its two hours’ suspense is over as our -train stops at Bakersfield, where another change of engines is made.</p> - -<p>It is now past midnight in Philadelphia, 12.50 A. M.; at Bakersfield it -is only 9.50 P. M., but many of our people are retiring, for it has been -a day fraught with pleasure and excitement, wearing both on the mind and -body, and we all need rest and plenty of it to prepare us for the -approaching morrow. “Captain,” I said, as Brother Perkins came down the -curtained aisle of the “Marco,” while I was wrestling with a refractory -collar button preparing to turn in, “will you kindly give me the number -of the engine that is drawing us and the names of the engineer and -fireman? I am trying to keep a record of the engines and crews that -handle us, and I don’t wish to miss any.” “Certainly,” is the response; -“we have engine No. 1417 that runs to Mendota, 140 miles; the engineer’s -and fireman’s names are Cole; the Cole Boys we call them—good, lively -fellows.” “With two live Coles in the cab and lots of them in the -firebox, I guess we will reach Mendota on time,” came the smothered -comment in a drowsy tone from the berth of Manager Wyman.</p> - -<h3>FRIDAY, MAY 21st.</h3> - -<p>Awakened this morning about six o’clock by Mrs. S., always an early -riser, who exclaims, “Get up! get up! we’re almost there.” “Almost -where, my dear?” I sleepily inquire. “I don’t know where, but Mr. -Terry,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_098" id="page_098"></a>{98}</span> Mr. Brown, Mr. Horner, and Mr. Springer are all up, and they say -we are nearly there,” she answers. I turn over, raise the blind, and -look out of the window. “And Mr. McDonald says we’re going to have an -early breakfast,” she adds, as she retreats down the aisle. That last -information she knows will fetch me if nothing else will, but I’m still -looking out of the window wondering where we are; thought at first we -had lost our way in the intricate descent of the Tehachapi Range, got -tangled up in the Loop, turned around, and were again entering Los -Angeles.</p> - -<p>What magic had been at work during the night? The world outside is -teeming with verdant vegetation. Fruit-laden trees, rose-burdened -bushes, green grass, and flowers everywhere. I quickly roll out of my -berth and dress, or rather I nearly roll out of my berth while quickly -dressing, for one inconvenience of this way of living is, you’ve got to -dress and then get out of bed, watching yourself very closely that you -don’t involuntarily get out before you’re ready, for when, with one leg -in your pants and about to put the other one in, your car hits a curve, -<i>look out</i>.</p> - -<p>The first person I meet as I enter the smoker is the conductor who is -running the train. “Good morning, captain; where are we?” I ask. “We are -entering Port Costa, 25 miles from Oakland,” he answers. “Have you time -to give me the number of your engine and the names of your crew?” I -inquire, with every-ready notebook in hand, as he was about turning -away, for the train is stopping at the station. “We left Mendota this -morning at two o’clock with engine No. 1408, Engineer Edwards, Fireman -Duran, Brakemen Owen and Todd,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_099" id="page_099"></a>{99}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing098_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing098_sml.jpg" width="318" height="450" alt="Image not available: GEORGE W. BROWN, OF THE COMMITTEE." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">GEORGE W. BROWN, OF THE COMMITTEE.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and my name is Schu,” he hurriedly said as he left the car and enters -the telegraph office. In a short time Conductor Schu comes out of the -office with train orders and our train is soon on its way again.</p> - -<p>At 10.30 A. M. Eastern (7.30 Pacific) we reach Oakland (Sixteenth -Street), where we lay for an hour and a half. It is a tedious wait. We -cannot leave the train, for we do not know at what minute it might -conclude to go, and none of us want to get left. We stroll around, first -on one side of the train and then on the other, keeping one eye on it -for fear it will get away from us and careful not to get too far out of -its reach. We can see that Oakland is a large and beautiful city, and -learn that it has a population of 60,000 inhabitants; a place where -flowers bloom on the lawns, fruits mature in the orchards, vegetables -grow in the gardens, and grains are harvested in the fields each and -every month in the year. It has mountain scenery back of it and an ocean -view in front of it; another blooming paradise where desolating storms -are unknown and frosts and snows are never seen.</p> - -<p>Finding our train about to move we all get aboard and in a few minutes -are landed at Oakland Pier, where we wait half an hour for a boat to -convey us eight miles across the bay to San Francisco. We employ the -time in looking about the large, commodious waiting room that overlooks -the harbor. We can’t help noticing that this apartment contains -something that is never seen in a station waiting room on the -Pennsylvania Railroad system. A profusion of advertisements of all kinds -literally cover the walls, and occupying a space in the centre of the -floor is a large glass case containing a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a>{100}</span> pyramid of bottles filled with -liquors of various kinds and brands, advertising the goods of a whiskey -firm down on Front Street. It is needless to say that there is a railing -around the exhibit and the door of the case is locked. One of the ticket -collectors, an active old gentleman, quick in his movements as a boy, -informs us that he has been in his present position for nineteen years; -and although seventy years old, the climate is so healthy he feels that -he is growing younger every day.</p> - -<p>It is announced that the boat is now ready, and we “walk the plank” -leading to the deck of the “Oakland,” which is soon plowing a furrow in -the waters of the bay as she heads for the “Queen City” of the Pacific. -It is not such a boat ride as one can term “lovely”; it is not even -agreeable. A chilly gale sweeps the deck that almost lifts you off your -feet. “Golly, it’s worse than a trip from Camden to Philadelphia in -December,” exclaims Brother Goff, as he turns up the collar of his coat. -“Or one from Jersey City to New York in February,” adds Brother -McKernan, seeking refuge behind a post. The most of us retire to the -more comfortable quarters of the cabin, where we find enjoyment in -viewing from the windows the immense bay and harbor, where are anchored -hundreds of vessels of all kinds and sizes. As the “Oakland” pokes her -nose against the San Francisco dock I look at my watch; it is 9.55 A. -M., Pacific time. We have just been twenty minutes coming across. A -speed of a mile in two and a half minutes is a pretty lively gait for a -ferryboat, but we are told the “Oakland” does it every trip. Under the -escort of Brother Perkins, we are loaded into cable cars and start on -our way to Sutro Garden and Golden Gate Park.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a>{101}</span></p> - -<p>I believe there’s hardly three squares of a level street in the whole -city of San Francisco. Such hills as we go up and such hills as we go -down we never saw in any city before. “Why, this is ten times worse than -Baltimore, and it’s bad enough, dear knows,” exclaims Mrs. Kalkman as -she catches Brother Cohee around the neck to save herself from falling -off the seat as the car shoots up an unusually steep acclivity. “Here, -here, don’t be so affectionate; Brother Kalkman and Mrs. Cohee are -looking at you,” warns Brother Cohee. “As if I’d hug you on purpose,” -she retorts, giving him a look of scorn. In many streets a horse and -wagon has never been seen; it would be impossible for a horse to draw a -wagon up those abrupt granite-paved hills. With the cable car almost on -end, we are descending one of those “shoot the chute” like declivities -extending for about three blocks, when I overhear a passenger, evidently -a resident of the neighborhood, say to Mrs. Shaw, who has “struck up” a -conversation with her, “We had a fire here in our neighborhood a short -time ago, and a driver of one of the fire engines tried to bring it down -this hill, when one of the horses fell down and the engine ran over it -and killed it, and it broke the engine all up and hurt the man; it was -just awful.” The car stops at the next corner and the woman gets off; -glancing back at the hill we have just descended her closing words, -“just awful,” strike me as being very appropriate.</p> - -<p>A few squares further and we abandon the cable cars and take a little -steam road called the “Ferries and Cliff” Railroad that carries us to -Sutro Park and bathing pavilion, owned by Adolph Sutro, a retired -millionaire merchant of San Francisco, and to the celebrated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a>{102}</span> Cliff -House, near which are the far-famed Seal Rocks. We wandered for a time -through the beautifully laid out statuary, shrubbery, and flower-adorned -grounds of Sutro, then to the great pavilion, that not only contains a -large museum of interesting relics and curiosities, but it is here that -the noted Sutro baths are located, said to be the finest equipped -artificial bathing pools in the world.</p> - -<p>We cannot stand the temptation, and soon many of us are robed in bathing -suits and are diving, plunging, rolling, and splashing in the salt -waters of the Pacific, brought here and warmed to the proper -temperature, permitting bathing to be indulged in the entire year. It is -needless to say that we have lots of sport, and those who decline to -indulge will regret it. There are several strangers in the pool, and -Brother Sheppard has taken quite a fancy to one young fellow, whom he is -trying to learn to swim and dive. In an adjoining pool is rather a -forlorn-looking duck; it must be tame, for it is quietly swimming around -undisturbed by the noise we make. “I think it’s hungry,” says Brother -McCarty, “I wish I had some crumbs.” The creature must have heard him, -for we imagine it gave him a grateful look.</p> - -<p>From the baths we go to the Cliff House, and from the windows of the -inclosed balcony, that almost overhangs the waves that dash and roar on -the rocks beneath, we watch with interest the monster seals that by the -hundreds climb and crawl and slip and slide over the crags that rise -from the bay, while we regale ourselves with pork and beans and coffee. -There is a strong, chilly wind blowing, and we do not tarry long on the -bluff outside that overlooks the bay and seals.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a>{103}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing102_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing102_sml.jpg" width="516" height="318" alt="Image not available: NEW CLIFF HOUSE AND SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">NEW CLIFF HOUSE AND SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO.</span> -</div> - -<p>It is twenty minutes past two as we get aboard a train on the Park and -Ocean Railroad that will convey us to Golden Gate Park. We do not find -this world-famed park very different in appearance from other parks we -have seen. It is all nice—very nice; beautiful trees and plants and -shrubbery, velvety green grass and bright blooming flowers, fine -fountains and lakes of shimmering water. All this we see and enjoy, but -we have seen the like before, time and time again. Some are bold enough -to so express themselves, and it catches Brother Perkins’ ear, who -good-naturedly says, “My dear friends, there is but one Golden Gate Park -in all the world. There are 1040 acres here of as fine a park as there -is anywhere under the sun, and when we consider that 25 years ago this -was all a barren tract of drifting sand hills, that everything you see -growing has been planted and is kept alive and green and blooming by a -regular and almost constant application of water, when you remember -this, then you will feel and think that this park is a little different -from any other that you have seen.”</p> - -<p>We had already commenced to think it was. Amongst groves of trees are -great inclosures containing native buffalo, elk, and deer, with so much -room to roam that they hardly feel the restraint of captivity. We enter -the immense aviaries, where many varieties of birds and squirrels flit -and chirp and scamper and chatter with all the freedom and unconcern of -an unlimited out-door life. As we leave this great cage with its -sprightly, vociferous occupants I hear Brother Reilly say, “McCarty has -got a ‘mash.’ ” I don’t quite know what it is that Brother McCarty has -got, but suppose it is some<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a>{104}</span> escaped animal or bird he has captured. I -turn and look, to find him surrounded by ladies of our party, who seem -to be trying to protect him from impending harm. Looking closer, I see -disappearing among the shrubbery McCarty’s “mash,” the cause of all the -trouble, and it is only the poor bedraggled duck of Sutro’s bath that -Brother McCarty had thought looked hungry, and our ladies had scared it -off. Brother Reagan would have recaptured it but for Miss Ella’s -restraining hand, and the curiosity is lost.</p> - -<p>We are all pretty tired when at last the street cars are boarded and we -are on our way to the ferry. Some are going to return to our train, -which lies in Oakland, and some will remain in this city. Mrs. S. and -myself called on Mrs. David Chambers, who, with her son and daughter, -Willie and Effie, live on Mission Street. Years ago Mrs. Chambers and -her family were neighbors to us in West Chester, Pa. Willie, when but a -lad, was advised to try the climate of the Pacific coast for his health. -He found both health and lucrative employment. Ten years ago he sent -East for his mother and sister. We find them to-day enjoying excellent -health and nicely and comfortably fixed. We are given a warm, cordial -welcome and persuaded to spend the night with them.</p> - -<p>In the evening after dinner Willie took me out to see the town. The -ladies declined to go, preferring to remain indoors and talk over old -times. Met Leslie Collom, a young gentleman friend of the Chambers’, but -he having other engagements could not go. Willie knows the town and I -follow where he leads. It has long been a desire with me to see San -Francisco’s<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a>{105}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing104_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing104_sml.jpg" width="517" height="316" alt="Image not available: PARAPET, SUTRO HEIGHTS, SAN FRANCISCO." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">PARAPET, SUTRO HEIGHTS, SAN FRANCISCO.</span> -</div> - -<p>“<i>Chinatown</i>,” and for three hours we explore its darkness and its -mysteries. We do not attempt to go very far up and we don’t try to get -very far down—we steer about on a level; but we see enough to convince -me that Chinatown is all that it is said to be. You don’t have to ascend -into rickety, reeking lofts or descend into gloomy, foul dens to witness -their degradation, weakness, and misery; far back in dark, forbidding -alleys and bystreets, which make your flesh creep to traverse, you can -find them huddled together on benches and shelves, like chickens on a -roost, enveloped in disgusting, stupefying smoke.</p> - -<p>On our way home we dropped into a private museum and saw one of the -rarest and most wonderful pieces of Japanese art in the world, a -realistic, life-size statue of a man carved from wood. It is claimed -that this work has been examined by learned scientific men, skilled in -anatomy and physiology, and not a line or lineament of the skin surface -of the human body has been omitted in this delicate, intricate carving. -The finger nails are there and all the fine lines that can be traced on -the inside of the hand and fingers. There are many lines on the surface -of the human body that require the aid of a magnifying glass to discern; -with the glass all these lines can be seen carved on this wonderful -piece of art. It is midnight when we get home, and, thoroughly tired, we -are soon in bed and in the land of dreams.</p> - -<h3>SATURDAY, MAY 22d.</h3> - -<p>Arose this morning about half-past six, and after breakfast, accompanied -by Leslie Collom, went to the Palace Hotel, where we met Brothers Wyman -and Layfield<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a>{106}</span> with their ladies. Brother Wyman had planned a trip to San -José and was expecting others of the party, but a number of them being -exhausted, worn out by an all night’s effort to explore the length, -breadth, height, and depth of Chinatown, were still in bed. The others -were too much interested in the beautiful city of Oakland and its -environments to come, for we hear the good people over there are showing -them a royal time, the municipal authorities giving them the freedom of -the city and the railway company the freedom of their lines. Finding -that no others are coming, we six board a Southern Pacific train on the -Coast Division, that extends from San Francisco to Monterey, bound for -San José, a ride of fifty miles. Mr. Collom is a very much appreciated -member of our little party, as he points out from time to time much that -interests us. As the train pulls out through the city he shows us the -church where Blanche Lamont and Minnie Williams were found murdered and -a little further on he points out the house where Durrant, the convicted -murderer had lived.</p> - -<p>The road runs between the ocean and the bay and as we pass the station -of Ocean View a broad expanse of the Pacific greets our vision. At Baden -we get pretty close to the shore of the bay and follow it until we leave -Burlingame, a distance of about eight miles. We pass Menlo Park and Palo -Alto, when our attention is called by Mr. Collom to a group of -low-built, red-roofed, substantial-looking buildings, a short distance -from the road on our right, almost hidden from view by the trees that -cluster about them. “That,” says Mr. Collom, “is the renowned Leland -Stanford University, founded in 1885 by the multi-millionaire Leland -Stanford and his wife<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a>{107}</span> as a monument to the memory of their only child, -Leland, Jr., who had died a short time before. Eighty-three thousand -acres of land, valued at $20,000,000, was dedicated by a deed of trust -for the establishment of this institution. Mr. Stanford selected the -site for the location of the buildings, and the corner stone was laid in -1887, ten years ago. Last year the school register showed an enrollment -of 1100 pupils. Tuition is free, both males and females are admitted, -and the students are from all parts of America.”</p> - -<p>As we leave Mountain View Station Mr. Collom suggests that we now give -the scenery on the left of the train our attention, at the same time -pointing out in the far distance a mountain peak, saying, “San José is -10 miles from here, and almost on a direct line with this point, and the -crest of that mountain, 30 miles away, is Mt. Hamilton, where the famous -Lick Observatory is located. It has an elevation of almost 4500 feet, -and if you only had time to go up there it is a trip worth taking.”</p> - -<p>Leaving Santa Clara Station we pass near a large, fine park, among the -trees of which can be seen beautiful, substantial buildings. “That is -Santa Clara Female College,” said Mr. Collom.</p> - -<p>The train now enters San José, and we alight at the station. A “Vendome” -hack is in waiting, which we enter, and are driven to that superb -hostelry, said to be one of the finest hotels in California. It is -situated in the centre of a beautiful 12-acre park, only a short -distance from the railroad station. Not having long to stay, after a few -minutes rest we bid the genial host good-day and start out for a little -walk.</p> - -<p>“We will return by the narrow-gauge road,” says<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a>{108}</span> Brother Wyman, “if we -can find the station.” “A man told me a little while ago that it is only -five blocks over in this direction,” replies the Colonel, indicating -with his finger the way we should go. “Yes, the narrow-gauge road runs -through that part of the town, but I think you will find it farther than -five blocks,” remarks Mr. Collom. “Well, we want to see the town, -anyway, and we’ll take our time,” responded the Colonel. “This is a -pretty large town as well as a pretty old one, is it not, Mr. Collom?” I -ask. “Yes,” is the answer. “It was first settled when Santa Clara -Mission was founded, 120 years ago. It has now a population of about -25,000, and is the county seat of Santa Clara County, one of the richest -counties in agricultural products and fruits in the State. Because of -the wealth of fertility surrounding it San José has long been known as -the ‘Garden City’ of California.”</p> - -<p>Sauntering along, with our eyes wide open for the sights of the town, -and keeping as much in the shade as possible, for the sun shines very -warm, we are getting all the enjoyment out of the situation possible; -but things are becoming less interesting. We are all hungry and the -ladies are becoming tired; we have already come seven blocks, and the -Colonel says, “We are nearly there; but to be sure of it I will ask this -man,” he adds, as a man leading a horse came around the corner toward -us. “My good man,” says the Colonel, “can you tell us how far it is to -the narrow-gauge railroad station from here?” “Yes, sir; ’bout five -blocks,” is the answer. “You’re sure it’s not ten?” retorts Brother -Wyman; but the man and horse, never stopping, were out of range, and the -shot missed the mark.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a>{109}</span></p> - -<p>“I’m hungry,” exclaims Mrs. Wyman. “So am I,” I add. “I guess we can all -eat if we have a chance,” asserts Brother Wyman. “We’ll look for a -restaurant,” says the Colonel. A walk of two squares farther brings us -to the looked-for establishment, which we enter, and after partaking of -a substantial lunch, I ask the man at the desk, and I try to do it -without feeling or agitation, making just the plain, quiet inquiry, -“Will you tell us, please, how far it is to the narrow-gauge railroad -station?” “Five blocks straight ahead,” is the pleasant, quiet reply, as -he waves his hand in the direction we are to go. Not a word from one of -our party. I take a second look at the man to see if I can discover in -that pleasant countenance the least shadow of deception; it is as -innocent and guileless as the face of day.</p> - -<p>We silently leave the place, and as we start up the street Mrs. -Layfield, taking the Colonel’s arm, gently asks, “John, are we going to -walk to San Francisco?” “Not if we can find the station,” says the -Colonel.</p> - -<p>We enter the large store of a wine merchant to look around, and are -courteously treated by the gentlemanly proprietor, who gave the ladies -each a bottle of wine. We have come four blocks and a half since lunch -and are looking for the station, when suddenly the Colonel exclaims, -“There’s the road; I thought that last fellow was telling the truth.” -“But that’s not the road we want; that’s a trolley road,” replies -Brother Wyman. “So it is,” admits the Colonel; “but there’s a man; I’ll -ask him,” he adds, referring to a man in uniform who was leaning up -against the fence.</p> - -<p>“For Lord’s sake,” pleads the Colonel, “will you tell us how far it is -to the narrow-gauge railroad station?”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a>{110}</span> “About a square and a half,” -answers the man, smiling at the Colonel’s earnestness, “Are you sure -it’s no further than that?” asks the Colonel. “Quite sure,” is the -reply. “How soon can we get a train for San Francisco?” inquires Manager -Wyman. “In about an hour and a half. Where’re you from?” he answers and -asks at the same time. “From Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Where’s your -road go?” imitates Brother Wyman. The man laughs. “I’m unable to take -you home, for I don’t go that far,” he replies, “but I can take you -several miles and back through as fine a fruit country as you ever saw. -I am waiting to relieve the man on the car you see coming, and in a few -minutes I will be going back. The fare is only a nickel,” he adds, as a -hint that we musn’t expect to “deadhead” it.</p> - -<p>We conclude to go, to pass the time away, for we can easily get back in -time to catch our train. So we get aboard the car, pay our nickel, and -ride for several miles to a place called the Willows, which is the -terminus of the road. Here is located an immense cherry orchard, where -the crop is being gathered and crated ready for shipment to Eastern -markets.</p> - -<p>We are invited to help ourselves; it is half an hour before our car -starts back and we have time to accept the invitation. The ripest -cherries are the ones the packers reject, so we assisted the packers for -several minutes picking out the ripe cherries and packing them while the -packers packed the ones we didn’t pick. When we got tired of packing we -quit picking, and thanking the good people for the treat, we board the -car again and are soon spinning up the line among the apricot and cherry -orchards, the trees loaded with fruit.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a>{111}</span></p> - -<p>Arriving at our destination, we bid our friend, the conductor, goodbye, -and in a few minutes we reach the much-inquired-for “narrow-gauge -railroad station,” where we wait half an hour for the train. We find the -track composed of three rails; and as though to demonstrate to us the -use of the third rail, a freight train comes along made up of both -narrow and broad-gauge cars. It looks odd, for it is something we had -never seen before, and as the strange combination passes down the road -the Colonel remarks, “There is nothing but what we may expect to see.”</p> - -<p>In due time our train pulls into the station and we are soon seated in a -comfortable narrow-gauge coach and speeding toward Oakland. There are -many beautiful towns and residences located on this line, and as we draw -nearer its termination this fact becomes more noticeable, the town of -Alameda, through which we pass, possessing all the loveliness of a -fairyland with its palatial residences and magnificent lawns.</p> - -<p>Oakland, the “Athens of the Pacific,” is reached at last, and knowing -how fascinating and grand it is and how royally our people are being -treated, I am loath to leave; but our friends on the other side await -our coming, and bidding the manager, the Colonel, and the ladies good -night, Mr. Collom and I hie away to the ferry and across the bay, nor -stop until we are seated in Mrs. Chambers’ cozy dining room, appeasing -our appetites while recounting the incidents of the day. After dinner -Willie took his mother, Mrs. Shaw, and myself out to give us a view of -the city lights from “Park Heights.” A ride on the cable cars and -several changes brought us in about forty minutes to the “Heights.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a>{112}</span></p> - -<p>From this high eminence we look down on a sight of unusual novelty and -grandeur. Spread out far beneath us is almost the entire city of San -Francisco, but the buildings are not visible, not one, only the millions -of bright, star-like lights that enable you to trace the streets and -mark the squares, and that twinkle and gleam from beneath like unto the -gems that beam down upon you from above. We look up, through a cloudless -atmosphere, and behold a firmament filled with brilliant, glittering -gems; we look down, and see what almost seems a reflection of what we -see above. Man, we know, is the author of all this grandeur that we see -beneath, but as to the Author of that magnificence far above we can but -speculate.</p> - -<p>Willie sees we are growing serious and says we need a change, so he -leads us around to the entrance that admits to the scenic railway, -chutes, haunted swing, and skating rink, where for an hour we have a -world of fun; so pleased are the ladies with the toboggan and the chutes -that it is with difficulty we get them started home. We have had another -full day, and when at eleven o’clock I find myself in bed, I discover -that I am very tired. After the excitement and exertions of the day are -over, when the tension and strain of over-taxed nerves and muscles relax -and reaction comes, then you understand in its fullest measure the -meaning of the expression, “I’m tired.”</p> - -<h3>SUNDAY, MAY 23d.</h3> - -<p>Feeling that we need rest, and finding the full enjoyment of our need in -the pleasant home of Mrs. Chambers, we do not go out to-day until it is -time to leave<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a>{113}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing112_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing112_sml.jpg" width="319" height="451" alt="Image not available: JOHN H. REAGAN, OF THE COMMITTEE." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">JOHN H. REAGAN, OF THE COMMITTEE.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">for the ferry, from which the boat will bear us to Oakland and to our -train, which is scheduled to leave this evening at seven o’clock. -Willie’s engagements had called him from home in the early morning. Mrs. -Chambers, Miss Effie, and Mr. Collom accompany Mrs. Shaw and myself to -Oakland and take dinner with us in the “Lafayette”; they are warm in -their praises of the comfort and luxury of our train and our enjoyable -manner of traveling.</p> - -<p>The hour of departure is drawing near and the many friends we have made -are gathered around to see us off. Mrs. T. E. Gaither, a former -Pennsylvanian, now a resident of Oakland, presents each one of the -tourists with a bouquet of fine roses gathered from her splendid, -spacious lawn of ever-blooming sweetness. The inevitable “All aboard” is -shouted, the last hand shake is given, and our train leaves behind -another garden spot of grandeur.</p> - -<p>So far as present indications point, our people have all made good use -of their time and thoroughly enjoyed themselves. The kind brothers, of -Golden Gate and El Capitan Divisions and the many good people of Oakland -and San Francisco who contributed so much toward our pleasure are at the -present time subjects of the warmest praise and most flattering -comments, as incidents connected with our visit are being talked over -and discussed. I hear Brother Springer telling in a pleasing and -animated manner of a visit he and some others made to the palatial -residence and grounds of Lucius Booth, Esq. “Mr. Booth gave us,” says -Brother Springer, “the freedom of his magnificent lawn and park, that -were beautified and adorned with all kinds,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a>{114}</span> varieties, and colors of -plants, fruits, and flowers. We were shown by Mr. Booth what he told us -is the greatest curiosity to be found, located in his park, two strong -natural springs, only eighteen inches apart; the flow of water from each -is about equal. From one spring gurgles a stream of sulphur water, -pungent to the smell and taste, with no indications of iron in its -composition, while from the other flows a stream strongly impregnated -with iron, but with no sign of a particle of sulphur in its ingredients. -It is a puzzle to the scientific world, and naturalists pronounce it a -‘marvelous freak of nature.’ ”</p> - -<p>I hear many of our people speak in the highest terms of Brother R. L. -Myers, secretary and treasurer of Golden Gate Division 364, who devoted -himself so faithfully and earnestly to the interests of our party. -Brothers Maxwell, Reagan, Waddington, and a number of others also speak -in glowing terms of the courtesy shown them by members of the Board of -Trade.</p> - -<p>We leave Oakland at 7.40 Pacific time (10.40 Eastern), attached to a -five-car train called the “Portland Flyer,” which makes the trip from -Oakland to Portland every five days. Engine 1793, in charge of Engineer -J. Edwards, is drawing the train, which is conducted by D. H. McIntire; -the brakemen are W. J. Mitchell and H. B. Stewart. A ride of 26 miles -brings us to Port Costa, where the engine and ten cars are run on to the -ferryboat “Salina” and transported across the strait of Carquicons to -the old town of Benicia, at one time the capital of California.</p> - -<p>The “Salina” is the largest ferryboat ever constructed, being 424 feet -long, 116 feet wide, and 18 feet deep; its<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a>{115}</span> capacity is forty-four cars -and an engine, regardless of size or weight. So smoothly does the -“Salina” run that there is not a tremor, jar, or motion to tell you she -is moving. Engine 1793 will run us to Davis, a distance of 77 miles.</p> - -<p>It has grown dark, a matter we always regret, for we never get tired -watching the fleeting, ever-varying landscape. With prospects of -mountains for to-morrow, we seek our little bed.</p> - -<h3>MONDAY, MAY 24th.</h3> - -<p>Arose early this morning while it was hardly yet light, not wishing to -miss any of the grand scenery that I know we must be nearing. Very few -of our people are up, and making my way to the smoker I find the -conductor who is running the train. He is a newcomer, an entire -stranger, but I find him a very agreeable gentleman. “Where are we, -captain?” I inquire. “Well,” he answers pleasantly, “you are on the -famous Shasta Route of the Southern Pacific Railroad, bound from San -Francisco, Cal., to Portland, Ore., a distance of 772 miles. You have -traveled about 200 miles in your sleep. We left Red Bluff a short time -ago and are now approaching Redding, 260 miles from San Francisco and -over 500 from Portland.” “Where did you take charge of our train, -please, and what is the number of your engine and the names of your -crew?” I ask; “I’m trying to keep a little record of things as we go -along,” I add by way of explanation, as he looks askance at me. “I took -your train at Red Bluff; have engine 1769, Engineer J. Clark. I can’t -tell you the fireman’s name; my name is G. E.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a>{116}</span> Morgan, and my brakemen -are J. Cook and J. Duncan. We take you to Ashland, a run of 206 miles. -It will be necessary for us to get a helper engine shortly, for we have -uphill work through here.”</p> - -<p>“What stream of water is this, captain?” I ask, as I look out of the -window and see a large surging, gurgling, dashing stream of water that -seems to be rushing past at a mile a minute gait. “That is the -Sacramento River, a stream whose course you ascend for 307 miles and -cross eighteen times between Sacramento and Sisson,” he answers, rising -and leaving the car as the train slows up and stops at a station.</p> - -<p>I follow, get off, and look around. On the right the leaping, tumultuous -waters of the Sacramento throw spray in your face as you stand and watch -them churning and foaming in resistless might as they sweep madly onward -toward the bay; on the left is the station and town of Redding. Several -of our people are up and out on the ground. We can see that the town is -a thriving business-looking place, and the station is a neat, -substantial building. Our engine is taking water and the men are loading -the tender with wood. “Why do you burn wood instead of coal in your -engines?” I ask Conductor Morgan, who is standing near. “For the sake of -economy, I suppose,” he replies. “Wood is plenty and cheap, while coal -is very scarce and expensive.”</p> - -<p>As we continue on our way I am reminded of Conductor Morgan’s assertion -that “wood is plenty,” for we see thousands of cords piled up along the -railroad track ready for use or awaiting shipment, and all the hills and -slopes and mountain sides within our range of vision are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a>{117}</span> covered with -immense forests of pine and spruce. It is wild, picturesque mountain -scenery and we all enjoy it.</p> - -<p>Our train stops again, and looking out we see a name above the little -station door that makes us think of home. It is the beloved, familiar -Chester county name of Kennet. We notice that it is spelled with only -one “t,” but it is “Kennett,” all the same. Stepping off, I see them -attaching a helper engine and get its number, 1902.</p> - -<p>As we start again I step on board, and entering the smoker encounter -Brakeman Cook. “I suppose we have some climbing to do,” I remark; “I see -you’ve got an extra engine.” “Yes,” he responds, “from here to Sisson is -61 miles, and in that distance we make an ascent of 2884 feet, at one -point having a grade of 168 feet to the mile.” Passing Castle Crag we -see in the distance its bald, bare bluffs and peaks of rugged, towering -granite, and nestling in the shadow of the ridge can be seen its -picturesque hotel, a resort where those needing mountain air for health, -or mountain solitude for repose or pleasure, can find a safe, secure -retreat.</p> - -<p>From this point we catch our first glimpse of grand Mt. Shasta, 60 miles -away. We stop at Dunsmuir twenty minutes for our engines to renew their -supply of wood and water, and several passengers from the “Portland -Flyer,” taking advantage of the delay, went into a nearby hotel and got -lunch. A boy on the station platform with a large four-pound trout that -he had just caught, and which was still flapping its tail, attracts the -attention of Brothers Sloane and Haas, who want the train held four -hours while they go fishing, but the proposition is voted down. A -beautiful large lawn slopes from the Dunsmuir Hotel to the railroad, on -which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a>{118}</span> tame mountain deer are browsing. Three miles from Dunsmuir we -reach Mossbrae Falls and Shasta Soda Springs. Our train stops, and with -cups, mugs, jugs, bottles, buckets, and pitchers we make a break for the -fountain. There is plenty of water there, and oh, how cold and sparkling -and invigorating it is! We drink our fill and fill our vessels and load -the train, but it would not be missed had we taken ten thousand times as -much. A roofed and stone-walled well that is inexhaustible is fed by -hundreds of little streams and rivulets and jets that flow and spurt -from the moss-covered mountain side, while here and there a spring more -powerful than the rest sends its slender column full fifty feet in the -air and then descends in a shower of mist around you.</p> - -<p>Where is the artist that can picture the beauty of Mossbrae Falls, a -mighty mountain side covered to its summit with giant pines, terminating -at its base in a sheer wall a hundred feet in height, its face covered -and festooned with bright green moss, through which descends in a -silvery sheen of spray the outpour from a thousand gushing springs? From -here to Sisson, a distance of 25 miles, our engines have trying uphill -work. There are mountains everywhere, mountains ahead of us and -mountains behind us, mountains above us and mountains below us, -mountains to the right and mountains to the left, but they are not the -bald, bare, treeless kind, for everywhere you look, except when you cast -your eye to Shasta’s crown, you will see a magnificent growth of pines -and cedars, shrubbery and ferns. You have always to look up or else look -down. Looking up you can scarcely ever see the pine-clad summits, for -your eye rests on the top of the car window before it reaches half<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a>{119}</span> way -up the mountain side; looking down you are all right, if you don’t get -dizzy, for in many places you can look down upon the tops of the tallest -trees a thousand feet below.</p> - -<p>With breath of flame and lungs of iron those powerful iron steeds puff -and cough and climb, and the long ten-car train, following their -laborious lead, winds and worms in and out and around those narrow -paths, traced and hewn in the mighty Sierra Nevada’s rugged sides by -persistent resistless Progress, ever guided, ever urged by the -indomitable will, restless perseverance, mechanical ingenuity, and -scientific skill of man. We climb and climb and worm and wind until -Sisson’s heights are reached, at an elevation of 3555 feet, and then we -rest awhile—rest to feast our eyes on Shasta’s indescribable majesty -and grandeur.</p> - -<p>This is the nearest point the railroad runs to that gigantic mound, and -it is twelve miles on an air line from where we sit and stand to the -glistening, snow-crowned crest of that mighty monarch. Why we should so -sensibly feel his presence and he so far away is a conundrum no one -asks; we only look and feel, and silently wonder what it is we feel. It -must be awe, for that which is great, we are told, inspires awe, and -Shasta is very, very great. Fourteen thousand four hundred and forty-two -feet is the estimated height of this colossal giant that pokes his apex -in the sky. Were it possible to grade him down or slice him off to -one-half his height he would make a plateau 75 miles in circumference -and 25 miles across; but it is time to go. The manager says, “Git on,” -and bidding adieu to Shasta we “git.”</p> - -<p>One mile from Sisson Conductor Morgan points to a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a>{120}</span> little mountain -spring that wouldn’t slake the thirst of a nanny goat, and says, -“There’s the head waters of the Sacramento River, which is 307 miles -from where it empties into the bay.” The road now is making some -wonderful curves and bends to get around insurmountable heights and -across unbridgeable chasms. We have just finished a run of about eight -miles, described almost a complete S, and are only one mile and a half -from where we started. At Edgewood helper engine No. 1902 is detached, -for it is now down grade to Hornbrook, a distance of 40 miles, with a -drop at places of 170 feet to the mile.</p> - -<p>At Hornbrook engine No. 1907 was attached to assist to Siskiyou, a -distance of 24 miles, with an ascent of 190 feet to the mile. As we -approach State Line we cross the old Portland stage trail, and at 3.03 -P. M. Eastern (12.03 Pacific) time we cross the State Line and enter -Oregon, having traveled 1136 miles through the State of California. We -pass Gregory Siding, where two freight wrecks had recently occurred. The -wrecking crew are still on the ground, having evidently just put engine -No. 1503 on the track, for it is standing there as we pass, covered with -mud. We here have in view Pilot Rock, a great bare bluff that stands out -and alone like a huge sentinel guarding the gateway of the valley, and -famous in the early history of this locality as the scene of stirring -Indian warfare. Manager and Mrs. Wyman are on the engine enjoying an -unobstructed view of this marvelous mountain ride. We have just had our -last look at California scenery, for rounding a bend as we pass Pilot -Rock, the last view of majestic Shasta bursts upon our vision, reposing -in sublime and solemn grandeur 50<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a>{121}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing120_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing120_sml.jpg" width="544" height="365" alt="Image not available: HERCULES’ PILLARS, COLUMBIA RIVER OREGON." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">HERCULES’ PILLARS, COLUMBIA RIVER OREGON.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">miles away. Another curve, the picture fades, the curtain falls, and -exit California.</p> - -<p>Still climbing the rugged sides of Siskiyou, and drawing nearer and -closer to its summit, our train, as though despairing of ever reaching -the top, plunges suddenly into its rocky ribs. The depths of despair can -be no darker than the gloomy obscurity of this yawning hole in the -mountain wall; for 3700 feet through “Tunnel 13” our train pierces the -heart of Siskiyou before emerging into daylight on the opposite side. -Here the summit of the grade is reached at an elevation of 4130 feet. -Leaving engine No. 1907 behind we now commence the descent of the -northern slope of the Siskiyou Mountain, amidst scenery of beauty and -grandeur. Arriving at Ashland 5.10 P. M. Eastern (2.10 P. M. Pacific) -time, a stop of twenty minutes is given and a change of engines is made.</p> - -<p>Bidding goodbye to Conductor Morgan and his crew, who deserve our -highest praise for the able manner in which our train was handled, and -who did much toward making the trip interesting by the useful -information imparted, we speed on our way again with engine 1361 in -charge of C. C. Case and fired by Robert McCuan; Conductor Edward -Houston, Baggagemaster R. W. Jameson, Brakeman H. Ballard, who take us -to Portland, 341 miles. Leaving Ashland, we pass a number of gold mines -in operation on the rugged hillside, and swing around into Rogue River -Valley, a rich farming and fruit-growing district, producing, it is -said, some of the finest fruits grown in Oregon. A stop of a few minutes -is made at Grant’s Pass, attaching engine No. 1759 to assist up the hill -to West Fork, 47 miles.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a>{122}</span> Twenty minutes is allowed at Glendale to enable -the passengers of the “Portland Flyer” and the crew to partake of lunch -at “The Hotel Glendale.” Soon after leaving Glendale we enter a wild -ravine, inclosed by towering hills covered to their summits with great -pine timber. “Mr. Jameson,” I ask of the baggagemaster, an agreeable old -gentleman, “has this wild spot a name?” “This is Cow Creek Cañon; the -stream of water you see is Cow Creek, which runs the entire length of -the cañon, 35 miles,” is the answer.</p> - -<p>The farther we penetrate this narrow gorge the more are we impressed -with the solitude of its mighty pine-clad sides, that commence at the -creek on one hand and at the railroad on the other and rise upward in a -steep slope for over 2000 feet, covered to the very crests with giant -Oregon pines. We arrive at the little station of West Fork, the only -station in the cañon, and engine No. 1759 is detached and sidetracked. -There is gold hidden in these mighty hills, and here and there we see a -mine, the principal one, the Victoria, being located near West Fork. Two -miles north of this point we are shown where occurred in 1890 the -largest landslide ever known in the history of railroads. An immense -section of the mountain side becoming loosened, slid down into the -bottom of the cañon, burying 900 feet of the railroad to the depth of -100 feet, and damming the creek, formed a lake 60 feet deep and one mile -long. The buried track was abandoned and the road built across the creek -along the foot of the opposite sloping wall of the cañon. We can plainly -see the great mass of earth and rocks and trees that cover the buried -track, and which forms a striking instance of what might occur at any -time to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a>{123}</span> roads that run through such mountain cañons. It is growing dark -as we emerge from the fastness and solitude of this Oregon wilderness, -but can easily discern that it is a change for the better, for we enter -a valley teeming with fields of waving grain and orchards of thrifty -trees. We stop at Roseburg for ten minutes, where another change of -engines is made, and when we start on our way again at 12.10 A. M. -Eastern (9.10 P. M. Pacific) time, it is quite dark.</p> - -<p>Leaving Roseburg, we have engine No. 1355, with Engineer Montgomery at -the throttle. Having a grade for 15 miles between Drains and Cottage -Grove, we get Engineer Connelly, with engine No. 1516, as helper. -Conductor Houston and his crew continue with us to Portland.</p> - -<h3>TUESDAY, MAY 25th.</h3> - -<p>Arrived at Portland this morning at 8.00 Eastern (5.00 Pacific) time, -and after breakfast we met Morton Young, Esq., of Portland. Mr. Young is -a member of Mt. Hood Division No. 91, O. R. C., and an earnest and -enthusiastic member of the order, though not in railway service at the -present time, having been fortunate in real estate speculation and able -now to retire from active business cares. Brother Young kindly escorts a -number of our party over the East Side Electric Railway to Oregon City, -which is a pleasant ride of 14 miles. We climb the great wooden stairway -leading up to the bluffs that overlook the city and obtain a magnificent -view of all the surrounding country. Looking down upon the falls of the -Willamette River, we are impressed with the grandeur of this Niagara<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a>{124}</span> of -the Pacific. Descending from this alluring point of observation, we -visit the great electric plant located at the falls, deriving its power -from the waters of the Willamette and supplying Oregon City, Portland, -and all the outlying districts with light and power. From the windows of -the power house we obtain a much nearer view of the falls. The -Willamette River at this point is about half a mile in width and the -falls, in the form of a semi-circle, extend from shore to shore with an -average height of 40 feet. It is estimated that the horse-power capacity -of this great volume of leaping, dashing, roaring water is second in the -world to that of Niagara. The great power house, with walls of solid -concrete, is located on the west side of the river, just below the -falls, and has a capacity of 12,000 horse power. It is owned and -operated by the Portland General Electric Company, a corporation -organized in 1892 with a capital of $4,250,000.</p> - -<p>We cannot remain long in one place and are unable to give this -interesting city the attention we would like, but we can see as we -traverse one of its principal thoroughfares that it is up to date in its -accommodations and improvements. We pass the Electric Hotel, and from -its appearance we are sure it is first class in every respect, and had -we the opportunity or occasion to partake of its hospitality we are -confident we would be well taken care of by the proprietors who manage -the establishment, Mr. and Mrs. W. M. Robinson. We visit the fish market -and are interested in the salmon just brought in, that range in weight -from five to fifty pounds, the streams through this part of the country -abounding with this species of fish. The ladies, intent on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a>{125}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing124_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing124_sml.jpg" width="538" height="359" alt="Image not available: THE COLUMBIA RIVER." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE COLUMBIA RIVER.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">procuring souvenirs, visit a number of the stores as we go along. On the -river banks are located numerous mills and factories. Arriving at the -point where we take the electric line for Portland and finding a car -waiting, we get aboard and start again on the delightful 14-mile trolley -ride. Among the passengers in the car is a lady whose pleasant -countenance invites confidence, and Mrs. Shaw has entered into -conversation with her. I am busy looking off across the country, -enjoying the beauty of the landscape, and have given their talk no -attention. Brother Young has just pointed out Clackamas Heights and is -now trying to show us the snow crown of Mt. Hood, but his Honor is so -mixed up with the vapory clouds that hang around the horizon that he -cannot be located. A nudge from Mrs. S. invites my attention, and as I -turn she introduces her new-found friend, Mrs. Robinson, of the Electric -Hotel, Oregon City. Mrs. Robinson is a bright conversationalist and -entertained us with some facts about the city and its surroundings.</p> - -<p>“Do you like Oregon City?” some one asks. “I not only like it,” answers -Mrs. Robinson, “but I am proud of it. It is a town with a history. The -site of Oregon City was first located in the year 1829 by Dr. John -McLoughlin, an agent of the Hudson Bay Company, who established a -trading post here. It was here a few years later that the Methodists -built the first Protestant church erected on the Pacific slope. The -Oregon <i>Spectator</i>, the first newspaper published on the Pacific coast, -was printed here in 1846 on a press brought from the Sandwich Islands. -We have a climate,” she continued, “that never goes to extremes;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a>{126}</span> we -seldom have freezing weather, and snow, if it comes, only lasts a few -hours. I have gathered roses in my yard on Christmas, for very rarely -the cold is severe enough to destroy our flowers. We have not grown so -rapidly as some of the younger cities of the Northwest, but we have all -the natural advantages and facilities to insure and encourage progress -and development. We have excellent graded schools that are well -attended, and as an evidence of the educational importance of our city, -the Willamette Valley Chautauqua Association holds its annual convention -or assembly at Gladstone Park, not far from Oregon City. These meetings -are largely attended, thousands coming from all parts of the Pacific -coast. The people will commence to gather for these meetings next week, -and I expect we will have our hands full; but here’s where I get off,” -and rising as the car stops she bids us goodday and steps off.</p> - -<p>We have reached Portland, and after proceeding a few blocks under the -guidance of Brother Young, we leave the electric road and board a cable -car for Portland Heights, a high eminence overlooking the city and -commanding a magnificent view of all the surrounding country for many -miles. We gaze down upon three rivers, the Columbia, Willamette, and -Clackamas, and follow with our eyes their sinuous windings as their -waters gleam and glimmer in the sun. We can plainly see the hoary crests -of Mt. Adams and Saint Helens, but clouds still hovering on the eastern -horizon keep Mt. Hood hidden from our sight. With the perversity of -human nature, that is always hankering for what is beyond its reach, we -want a look at Mt. Hood. “We came up here to see it,” says Mrs. -Dougherty, “and if<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a>{127}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing126_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing126_sml.jpg" width="262" height="299" alt="Image not available: J. P. O’BRIEN, SUPERINTENDENT RAIL LINES, OREGON RAILROAD -AND NAVIGATION COMPANY." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">J. P. O’BRIEN, SUPERINTENDENT RAIL LINES, OREGON<br /> -RAILROAD -AND NAVIGATION COMPANY.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">it’s only a wee glimpse I want it.” So do we all, and we keep our gaze -riveted on the spot where Brother Young says it will appear, if it shows -at all.</p> - -<p>“Mt. Hood is 70 miles away,” says Brother Young, “but on a perfectly -clear day a person from here can see it very plainly.” The clouds -showing no inclination to favor us, we descend from the Heights, get -aboard a car, and start for the station, where we arrive about 1.30 P. -M., and find the most of our people gathered there; they also have spent -a very pleasant morning taking in the sights of Portland and gathering -souvenirs.</p> - -<p>Brothers Maxwell and Reagan, of the excursion executive committee, have -not been idle, but calling upon Superintendent J. P. O’Brien, of the -Oregon River and Navigation Company Rail Lines, have arranged for an -excursion this afternoon up the banks of the Columbia River to Cascade -Locks and return.</p> - -<p>Getting lunch at a near-by restaurant, we are soon all ready for the -start. Our three sleepers are attached to a regular train that leaves at -2.45 P. M. “Are all our people here?” asks Manager Wyman, surveying the -crowd. “There are four or five that are absent, I believe,” answers -Secretary Maxwell, as he nips the northeast corner off a plug of -tobacco. “Sloane and Haas are not here, I know,” speaks out Brother -Terry, “for they went out with a boy in a boat to watch the salmon shoot -the falls of the Willamette and haven’t got back yet.” “Time’s up; can’t -wait; all aboard,” shouts the conductor, and away we go, bound for a -trip of 45 miles through the marvelous and unsurpassed scenery of the -Columbia River. Superintendent O’Brien is with us, his private car being -attached to the train. Chief Dispatcher<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a>{128}</span> E. N. Campbell, C. R. Holcomb, -Esq., and Brother M. Young also accompany the party. L. J. Hicks, -photographer, of Portland, is along in his professional capacity; we are -also accompanied by the Portland Hotel orchestra, comprised of the -following gentlemen: G. H. Parsons, J. Seltenraick, F. Boyd, William -Livinston, Prof. E. F. Fleck, who render admirable and pleasing music. -Many are the expressions of delight as we catch fleeting glimpses of the -wonderful scenery. “You will have a better view on the return trip,” -advises Mr. O’Brien, “for we will then run slow and make an occasional -stop.” Arriving at Cascade Locks, we are given twenty minutes to visit -the great locks which the Government is about completing, at a cost of -nearly $1,500,000, to enable vessels to reach the highest navigable -point of this most remarkable river.</p> - -<p>Time is up to start on our return trip, and reaching the train we find -O. R. & N. engine No. 73 coupled to the train, with Engineer A. Curtis -and Fireman Jo. Wilson in the cab and Conductor J. A. Allison standing -near ready to move off as soon as we are ready to go. In a minute we are -all on, and the train goes slowly down the great Columbia, whose -current, always rapid, is augmented and increased twofold by the melting -snows in the mountains, and surges past in an angry, turbid torrent. -From the rushing waters of the mighty river on one side we look up on -the other side to the towering cliffs and crags and peaks that rise in -majesty and grandeur 3000 feet in the air, their summits fringed with -pines that look like ferns as they wave against the sky, while here and -there, from out those walls of rock, mountain streams gush forth, and -falling hundreds of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a>{129}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing128a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing128a_sml.jpg" width="325" height="282" alt="Image not available: MT. ADAMS, WASHINGTON." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">MT. ADAMS, WASHINGTON.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing128b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing128b_sml.jpg" width="320" height="241" alt="Image not available: MT. ST. HELENS, FROM PORTLAND." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">MT. ST. HELENS, FROM PORTLAND.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">feet, their waters descend in showers of rainbow-tinted spray.</p> - -<p>“Well,” remarks Mr. O’Brien, as he sees we are almost speechless with -rapture and delight, “that’s something you don’t see in Pennsylvania or -Jersey every day in the year.” “No,” I respond, “nor anywhere else in -the world on any day of the year.” “I really believe there is no scenery -in the whole wide world more intensely absorbing than your Columbia -River scenery, Mr. O’Brien,” says Mrs. Mattson, and the Doctor, standing -near, smiles down upon her his approval. “We will now turn our attention -to something more practical than towering mountains and leaping -waterfalls,” says Mr. O’Brien, as the train comes to a stop. “We will -show you how our salmon are coaxed out of the water.”</p> - -<p>Leading the way, we follow him down the river bank to its edge and on to -a platform or wharf extending for several feet into the water, where a -large wheel is slowly revolving that looks something like the side wheel -of an old-fashioned ferryboat or the large overshot water wheel of an -old-time sawmill, except that it turns backward, and as the scoops or -buckets rise out of the water they bring the fish along, should any of -them be so unfortunate as to get caught. When the scoop rises to a -certain height the fish slip out into an incline trough or chute -(something like the “boys” had fun with at Sutro’s) and are dumped into -a bin under the platform. “We are not catching many at the present -time,” says the man who is operating the trap, “the river is too high -and muddy and the fish are not running very lively.” Opening a trap -door, he allows us to peer down into the bin, where we see a lot of fish -of various sizes. He kindly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a>{130}</span> gave us several for our dining car, an act -we all highly appreciate.</p> - -<p>We next stop at Multnomah Falls, where one of those mountain streams -pouring over the face of a cliff has a sheer descent of 950 feet. Here -the party is arranged in a group on a grassy slope, with the falls as -background, and photographed by Mr. Hicks. “Mr. Hicks, will all those -beautiful rainbows we see there show in the pictures you have taken?” -asks Mrs. Matthews of the photographer. “No,” replies Mr. Hicks, “that -is beyond our art. No camera will picture nor can artist paint the -gorgeous coloring and beautifully blended tints that you see in the -dashing spray of Multnomah Falls.” “I don’t know about that,” answers -Brother Mart. Houston, who is always of a practical turn of mind. “I -believe George Cope, of Chester County, could do it, for a man who can -paint the pretty spots of a trout or all the colors of autumnal foliage -and never miss a tint can come pretty close to Multnomah Falls.” “He -ought to come out here and paint it, then,” responds Brother Bob Foulon; -“for a reproduction of Multnomah Falls on canvas as we see it to-day -could not be surpassed by any painting in the world.” We all echo -Brother Foulon’s sentiments, and feel as we get aboard the train that it -has been our privilege to look upon a scene of unequaled loveliness and -grandeur.</p> - -<p>We again stop and are photographed at the Pillar, an enormous column of -rock standing alone between the river and the railroad, upon the summit -of which is growing a great pine tree, 1000 feet in the air. We get back -to the depot about 7.30 and find McDonald has a sumptuous dinner -awaiting us, which we all<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a>{131}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing130_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing130_sml.jpg" width="537" height="358" alt="Image not available: MULTNOMAH FALLS, OREGON." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">MULTNOMAH FALLS, OREGON.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">heartily enjoy. Mr. O’Brien and Brother Young take dinner with us, and -our people show their appreciation of the courtesy and kindness of these -gentlemen by giving them three rousing cheers. After supper Manager E. -Lyons, of the Union Depot, escorts a number of the “boys” to the -luxurious quarters of the Commercial Club, where we are royally -entertained for three hours, returning to the train about midnight.</p> - -<h3>WEDNESDAY, MAY 26th.</h3> - -<p>Everybody is astir in good time this morning, for we are soon to bid -adieu to this great city of the far Northwest, where we have been so -kindly treated and royally entertained. The warmhearted brothers of Mt. -Hood Division No. 91, O. R. C., along with the officers of the different -transportation companies, will long be remembered for their generous -manner toward us. “Views of Portland, Oregon, and the Columbia River,” a -beautiful pamphlet souvenir issued by Mt. Hood Division, was presented -to each member of our party, and is highly prized. In connection with -the pamphlet is “a ticket of welcome” of coupon form, and is quite -lengthy, but all right, the first clause of which reads, “This contract -with coupons attached entitles the holder to a hearty welcome and a -first-class reception on entering the State of Oregon, and the -courtesies of the Southern Pacific Company, the Oregon Railroad and -Navigation Company, and the Northern Pacific Railway.</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left">R. Koehler,</td><td align="left">E. P. Rogers,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">General Manager S. P.</span></td><td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">A. G. P. A., S. P.</span></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">E. McNeill,</td><td align="left">B. Campbell,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Pres. & Mgr. O. R. & N.</span></td><td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Traffic Mgr. O. R. & N.</span></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">W. H. Hulburt,</td><td align="left">J. W. Kendrick,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">G. P. A., O. R. & N. Co.</span></td><td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Genl. Mgr. N. P. Ry.</span></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">J. H. Hannaford,</td><td align="left">C. S. Fee,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Genl. Traffic Mgr. N. P. Ry.</span></td><td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">G. P. A., N. P. Ry.”</span></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a>{132}</span></p> - -<p>There are five clauses in the contract. The last clause reads, “The -Reception Committee will not be responsible for the loss of any diamonds -(kings and queens excepted), baggage, meals, or sleep on this run.</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left">J. M. Poorman,</td><td align="left">J. W. Crocker,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Sec. & Treas.</span></td><td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">C. C.</span></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">“Mt. Hood Division No. 91, O. R. C.”</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>There are six coupons, each reading to and fro over a line between -different points of interest, and bearing at the bottom the name of the -superintendent over whose line it reads. The whole is a nicely gotten up -affair and a valued addition to our collection of souvenirs.</p> - -<p>We leave here at 8.45 A. M., and the hour of departure being at hand (as -is always the case), a number of our new-found friends are at hand to -see us off. All along our route we have been constantly reminding the -people who we are by a yell we give in concert, with a vim that would -drown the racket of a college football team; and now, gathered in a -bunch, we let go:—</p> - -<p>“Who are we? O. R. C.</p> - -<p>“Pennsylvania employé.</p> - -<p>“Rah! rah! boom—ah!” The ladies of our party are ready and let go:—</p> - -<p>“Who are we? Who are we?</p> - -<p>“The wives and the daughters of the O. R. C.</p> - -<p>“Rah! rah! boom—ah!”</p> - -<p>And now the cooks and waiters gathered at the windows and on the -platform of the “Lafayette” let go:—</p> - -<p>“Who are we? P. P. C.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a>{133}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing132_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing132_sml.jpg" width="491" height="352" alt="Image not available: ALONG THE COLUMBIA RIVER." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ALONG THE COLUMBIA RIVER.</span> -</div> - -<p>“The cooks and the waiters of the O. R. C.</p> - -<p>“Rah! rah! boom—ah!”</p> - -<p>With all this din ringing in their ears the good people of Portland see -our train pulling away from their beautiful station. As they wave their -adieus we pass from their sight on a run of 146 miles over the Northern -Pacific Railway to Tacoma, Wash. N. P. engine No. 617 is drawing us, -managed by Engineer F. W. Bockerman and fired by H. Deam. The conductor -is Henry Buckley and the brakemen are H. Harkins and Tom Martin; Mr. -Martin is a young man from Chester County, Pennsylvania, who has come -West to seek his fortune, and has accepted the position of a brakeman -with the expectation of rising in the ranks, and we wish him success.</p> - -<p>From Portland to Goble, 39 miles, we follow the Columbia River, which is -very high, and much of the low land is submerged. We can see buildings -surrounded by water that have been vacated, and we are reminded of the -El Paso flood. We look beyond this desolating waste of water and in the -far distance can see the glistening summits of Mt. Hood and Saint -Helens. Reaching Goble, our train is run on to the great ferry steamer -“Tacoma,” transported across the Columbia River to Kalama, and into the -State of Washington. Leaving Kalama, we pass through a fine farming -country, where agricultural industries seem to be extensively carried -on. After passing Centralia, which is a flourishing town of about 3000 -inhabitants, we have a splendid view of Mt. Rainier for several miles -while we sweep across the Yelm prairie. A short stop is made at Roy to -pick up Brothers B. W. Johnson and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a>{134}</span> S. H. Ewalt, of Mt. Tacoma Division -No. 249, O. R. C., who are members of committee on entertainment, and -who promise to show us the city of Tacoma after our arrival there. The -country through here seems to be rich in natural resources, for -bordering the fertile valleys can be seen heavily timbered hills and -here and there a coal mine in operation.</p> - -<p>Arriving in Tacoma at 4.40 P. M. Eastern (1.40 P. M. Pacific), we are -immediately taken out by Brothers Johnson and Ewalt to see the town and -are joined by A. F. Haines, passenger agent of Northern Pacific Railway, -Capt. A. Thompson, of the Portland <i>Oregonian</i>, C. P. Ferry, Esq. (who -bears the distinguished title of “Duke of Tacoma”), and a member of the -Chamber of Commerce, L. Ceasar, Esq., president of Tacoma Bank and a -member of the Board of Trade. The first place we visit is the County -Court House. “This,” says Mr. Ferry, “is one of the finest buildings in -Tacoma, which, you know, is the county seat of Pierce County. We had to -have a court house and thought we would build a good one; it cost -$400,000.” We amused ourselves looking through the museum located in -this building, many of the relics and works of art having been -contributed by Mr. Ferry, who collected many of them in foreign -countries through which he has traveled. We spent half an hour in the -Court House and then entered into a street car, which took us a -much-enjoyed ride through the city to Point Defiance Park.</p> - -<p>To form a true conception of a Washington forest one has but to visit -this wonderful park. Such majestic trees we never saw before, many of -them six and eight feet in diameter and estimated to be 300 feet in -height, great<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a>{135}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing134a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing134a_sml.jpg" width="245" height="199" alt="Image not available: C STREET, TACOMA, WASHINGTON." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">C STREET, TACOMA, WASHINGTON.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing134b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing134b_sml.jpg" width="383" height="201" alt="Image not available: BRIDGE, POINT DEFIANCE PARK, TACOMA, WASHINGTON." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">BRIDGE, POINT DEFIANCE PARK, TACOMA, WASHINGTON.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">pines and cedars, natural growth of the soil, and amongst them, growing -in wild profusion, great ferns six feet in height. In inclosures can be -seen deer, elk, and bear, natives of the wilds. Through this great -forest park bridle paths lead in all directions, and about 80 miles of -bicycle track is built. The park is situated on a high eminence -overlooking Puget Sound. By a series of steep paths and stairs we -descend to the beach. The sound is a great body of water with hardly a -ripple on its surface. A half hour is spent here gathering pebbles and -shells, and then we head for the smelter, half a mile up the beach.</p> - -<p>A boathouse furnishes rowboats for those who want them, and a number -avail themselves of this opportunity to avoid a tiresome walk. Those who -walk ascend again the steps and steep pathway, and going along the -forest walk they arrive at the smelter the same time as those who rowed. -We are taken through the great hot, smoky building and shown the -treatment ore receives in all its stages from the smelter to the -crucible. This immense plant, owned and operated by the Tacoma Smelting -and Refining Company, handles gold, silver, and copper ore, and has an -annual output of over $900,000. A train of cars await us when we emerge -from the works, flat cars, fitted up with seats for the occasion; upon -these we climb, and find as we are slowly taken along the sound front -that no conveyance could afford a better view. Tacoma has 12 miles of a -water front, upon which splendid wharves, great warehouses, monster -elevators, immense saw and flour mills are built, the whole 12 miles -being lined with industries of this character.</p> - -<p>This trip over, we return to our train and find dinner<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a>{136}</span> awaiting us, -after which our train is run to the steamboat landing and we are taken -aboard the “City of Kingston,” belonging to the Northern Pacific -Railway, for a trip of 28 miles to Seattle. We can hardly realize as the -boat leaves the wharf that our visit to Tacoma is over, so rapidly were -we hustled along; but we are highly pleased with the treatment we -received and feel that Tacoma is a wonderful place and her people will -make her still more wonderful by their thrift, their push, and activity. -They have our best wishes for their future progress and advancement.</p> - -<p>The “City of Kingston” is a splendid boat and rides like a feather over -the waters of the sound, and from the expressions of delight on every -hand it is evident our people are enjoying the trip. The boat is in -charge of Engineer G. H. Lent and a gentlemanly purser, who have won the -goodwill of our party by kindly allowing us the freedom of the boat and -showing us through many of the elegantly-furnished state rooms with -which the boat is equipped. Arriving at Seattle, we are loaded in a -large cable car and taken through the city for about four miles and back -again. It is so dark we cannot see the town and can only enjoy the ride. -We are taken to the station, where we wait for half an hour for our -train to arrive, which has been sent from Tacoma to overtake us. We are -all pretty thoroughly tired out, and are glad when at about eleven -o’clock our train arrives, and we are soon making ourselves comfortable -inside. M. M. Davis, Esq., a press representative of Seattle, and -Conductor Thomas Doyle in search of an “item” gave us a short call just -after our train came over from Tacoma. Brother Reagan and “Alfalfa” are -the only ones I see as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a>{137}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing136_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing136_sml.jpg" width="363" height="539" alt="Image not available: LATOURELLE FALLS, OREGON." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">LATOURELLE FALLS, OREGON.</span> -</div> - -<p>I leave the “refreshment corner” in the “combined” to seek repose in the -“Marco.” Our train is still standing at Seattle and the hour is close to -midnight.</p> - -<h3>THURSDAY, MAY 27th.</h3> - -<p>Getting up this morning about 7.30, I find we are crossing another -desert—at least it has that appearance. We have left Ellensburg and are -running through a dry, sandy country along the Yakima River. Here and -there we pass a ranch where plots of land under irrigation are being -cultivated, and from the fertile appearance of these irrigated tracts it -would seem that this country needs but plenty of water to make it a -blooming paradise. This much I discover by looking out the window while -waiting my turn to wash and comb, for Brothers Terry, Brown, and Horner -are ahead of me this morning. We work on the principle “first come first -served,” and all good naturedly wait when there is nothing else to do. -Completing my toilet, I go to the smoker and find the genial conductor -who is running the train, and learn that he is a member of Mt. Hood -Division No. 91; name, W. B. Hale.</p> - -<p>“I took charge of your train at Ellensburg,” he says, on being asked the -question, “and am going with you as far as I can. We have engine No. -333, run by Engineer Brant, who will take us to Pasco, 122 miles.” “This -is a barren-looking country for stock raising,” I remark, as I see a -large drove of cattle kicking up the dust in the desert as we pass them; -“what do they live on?” “Those cattle are from away back toward the -hills, where there is plenty of ‘bunch grass’ that they feed on, and are -coming<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a>{138}</span> to the irrigation canal for water, or perhaps they are being -driven to the railroad station for shipment. You would be surprised at -the amount of stock shipped from North Yakima, Prosser, and Kennewick,” -is the reply. “There seems to be no trouble about growing plenty of -stuff where there is water,” I venture to assert, seeing a -verdant-looking plantation, like an oasis in the desert, a short -distance away. “Lack or scarcity of water is the only hindrance to -agricultural industry,” is the answer, “and this drawback is being -rapidly overcome by the construction of large irrigating canals by -companies formed for that purpose.”</p> - -<p>“Breakfast is now ready in the dining car,” chimes the welcome voice of -Conductor McDonald at the open door. Several of our people had entered -the smoker during the last half hour, and all arise as one person at the -music of that well-known voice, that always brings “tidings of great -joy.” “I think Mr. McDonald has the loveliest voice, for a man,” is the -flattering remark of Mrs. Matthews as we make a break for the diner. Not -one of us but what thinks so too, but of course we know Mrs. Matthews is -thinking of the song McDonald sang to us a few evenings before.</p> - -<p>“There’s a tramp hidden between the ice chests under this car beating -his way, I heard some one say awhile ago,” says Manager Wyman at the -breakfast table. As we finish eating the train stops at the little -station of Kiona and we all get out to see the stowaway. Sure enough -he’s there. In a narrow space between the ice chests, about 16 inches -wide, he has placed a board on the dining-car ladder which is kept -there, and crawled in on it, a place so narrow that he cannot change his -position<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a>{139}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing138a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing138a_sml.jpg" width="318" height="215" alt="Image not available: THE HOBO PASSENGER." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE HOBO PASSENGER.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing138b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing138b_sml.jpg" width="317" height="256" alt="Image not available: CROSSING COLUMBIA RIVER ON THE “TACOMA.”" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">CROSSING COLUMBIA RIVER ON THE “TACOMA.”</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">or turn. We can see him all covered with dust, but he does not move, and -we are not sure that he is alive, for this Yakima dust is something -terrible and he has certainly got a dose of it. One of the dining-car -boys brought him out some bread and meat, a can of water, and a sponge -to protect his mouth and nostrils from the dust. We can see that he is -alive when these things are pushed into him, for he reaches out a hand -as far as he can to receive them. After passing Kennewick we cross the -Columbia River and are soon at Pasco, where a stop is made to change -engines. While this is being done we persuade our “mascot” to come from -beneath the car. As he crawls from his hiding place and straightens up -Brother Ristein, who has his kodak ready, takes a snap. We can see -through the ginger-colored Yakima dust on his face that he is a negro. -“What’s your name?” I ask. “John Bell, sah.” “Where do you live?” asks -Brother Matthews. “Al’bama, sah.” “Where did you get on this car?” asks -Manager Wyman. “Tacoma, sah.” “How did you get to Tacoma?” asks Brother -Dougherty. “Cargo hosses, sah.” “Where do you want to go, now?” asks -Conductor Hale. “Montana, sah.” “Well, crawl in your hole; we’re going -to start,” replies Captain Hale, and turning to Manager Wyman continues, -“We may as well allow him to keep his place, for soon as you rout him -out there will be another one ready to crawl in. It’s impossible to get -through this part of the country without being troubled with hoboes.”</p> - -<p>We leave Pasco at 12.55 Eastern (9.45 Pacific) time with engine No. 405, -Engineer Tom Allen and Fireman W. W. Thompson, who run us to Spokane, -146 miles. Much of the country through which we are now<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a>{140}</span> passing is very -dry and barren-looking, but we are informed by Captain Hale that it is -considered a rich grazing district. From Lind to Sprague, a distance of -45 miles, many large herds of horses and cattle are seen. Just before -reaching Sprague we run for two miles on the border of Spring Lake, a -fine body of water that looks very refreshing after so many miles of dry -and dusty territory. We stop at Sprague a few minutes for water and -notice the place has had a very serious fire not long since.</p> - -<p>“Captain,” I ask, addressing Brother Hale, who is near by, “what has -happened to Sprague?” “The town was nearly wiped out about a year ago by -a very bad fire,” is the reply, “and it is a great pity, for Sprague was -a pretty little place and a thriving town. It is the county seat of -Lincoln County, and had a population of about 2000. It is the -headquarters of the Idaho Division of the Northern Pacific Railway, and -the company’s machine shops and roundhouse were completely destroyed and -all those engines ruined,” and he points to where can be seen about a -dozen locomotives, burned and warped, standing on the tracks that had -been the interior of the roundhouse and shops.</p> - -<p>Another run of 25 miles through good farming and grazing territory, -interspersed with considerable timber land, brings us to Cheney, where -we again make a short stop. Since crossing the Columbia our course has -been upward, and from an elevation at Kennewick of 350 feet we have now -reached 2300 feet. Cheney is a growing business place of 1200 -inhabitants. It is nicely located on the great plateau of the Columbia -and surrounded for many miles with rich farm land and abundant timber.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a>{141}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing140a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing140a_sml.jpg" width="327" height="220" alt="Image not available: ELEVATOR A, TACOMA, WASHINGTON." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ELEVATOR A, TACOMA, WASHINGTON.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing140b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing140b_sml.jpg" width="319" height="186" alt="Image not available: SHORE OF LAKE PEND D’OREILLE AT HOPE, IDAHO." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">SHORE OF LAKE PEND D’OREILLE AT HOPE, IDAHO.</span> -</div> - -<p>Here we meet Mr. H. W. McMaster, chief dispatcher of Northern Pacific -Railway at Spokane, whom we find to be a very courteous and agreeable -gentleman. On a sidetrack near where our train stands, Mr. McMaster -shows us the largest locomotive on the Northern Pacific Railway, No. -150. Engine and tender without fuel or water weigh 106 tons; it has a -34-inch cylinder; was built in Schenectady, N. Y., since the first of -the year. They have had it but a short time but find it very -satisfactory. It is in charge of Engineer J. Bruce and is run in the -freight service between Spokane and Pasco. Mr. McMaster accompanies us -to Spokane, where we arrive at 5.20 P. M. Eastern (2.20 P. M. Pacific), -and are met at the station by Dr. E. D. Olmsted, Mayor of Spokane. We -are introduced to the Mayor by Mr. McMaster in a neat little speech. His -Honor responds in a pleasant manner, bidding us welcome and giving us -the freedom of the city. The street railway management offers us the use -and freedom of their lines so long as we wish to remain in the city. We -have but two hours here, and the municipal authorities and street -railway managers vie with one another in their efforts to show us as -much of the city as possible in the short time we will be with them. A -number of carriages are sent around and quickly loaded up, accommodating -about one-half of the party, the remainder board street cars, and we -start on a tour of the city.</p> - -<p>Spokane is the county seat of Spokane County, with a population of about -32,000. It occupies a remarkably picturesque location on both sides of -the Spokane River, a mighty mountain torrent, the rush and roar of whose -eternal, resistless energy holds the visitors to-day spellbound<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a>{142}</span> and -speechless with admiration, amazement, and awe. We had looked upon, we -supposed, during the past two weeks, all varieties and degrees of -running, rushing, and falling waters, but at no time have we gazed upon -such a tumbling, seething, foaming, roaring torrent as this that now -fascinates us with its sublime grandeur and astounds us with its -terrific force.</p> - -<p>Right through the centre of the city, with a fall of 150 feet in the -space of half a mile, this mighty torrent tears, dashing and splashing, -surging and foaming against and amongst the great rocks and boulders -that beset its course with a fury that is indescribable, and we feel as -we gaze upon this wonderful, awe-inspiring spectacle that there is no -more limit to the power of the elements than there is to the measure of -eternity. This magnificent river that never freezes runs the great -electric plant that lights the city and operates 45 miles of electric -railway. It furnishes power for numerous flour and saw mills, factories -and foundries that can be seen in operation along its banks, giving an -aspect of business activity to the place that is a pleasing -manifestation of prosperity and enterprise.</p> - -<p>Its fine, substantial, costly church, school, municipal, and other -public buildings and superb private residences are indications that -there is wealth in Spokane. Because of the advantages and facilities of -its admirable location, surrounded by vast forests of valuable timber, -fertile agricultural valleys, rich mining districts, and the traffic of -seven railroads, we predict for Spokane a phenomenal future. It is -destined, we are sure, at an early day to be the first city of the great -Northwest. Not one of the party will ever forget our short visit to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a>{143}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing142a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing142a_sml.jpg" width="330" height="207" alt="Image not available: SPOKANE FALLS, SPOKANE." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">SPOKANE FALLS, SPOKANE.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing142b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing142b_sml.jpg" width="331" height="195" alt="Image not available: SPOKANE, WASHINGTON." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">SPOKANE, WASHINGTON.</span> -</div> - -<p>Spokane. Mr. McMaster took Brothers Maxwell and Reagan around with his -own team and Captain Hale took Manager Wyman. The street-car party was -under the escort of James Mendenhall, Esq., an old schoolmate of Brother -James Matthews. Mr. Mendenhall came West several years ago, located at -Spokane, and engaged in real estate business. He is now one of the -prominent citizens of the place and closely identified with the business -interests and enterprises of the city. We also met Mark Mendenhall, -Esq., a brother of James, who is a leading attorney in Spokane. No, we -will not forget the courtesy and kindness of the good people of Spokane, -and the good people of Spokane will not forget us, for they have only to -remember that on the afternoon of May 27th, 1897, street-railway traffic -was blocked for thirty minutes by a car abandoned by the Pennsylvania -Railroad conductors and kept waiting for them while they viewed the -grandeur of Spokane Falls for half an hour from the rear balcony of the -brewery.</p> - -<p>At 7.40 P. M. Eastern (4.40 P. M. Pacific) time we are all aboard our -train once more, and with Engineer Secord at the throttle of engine No. -119 we quickly leave beautiful Spokane far in our rear. Captain Hale is -still with us, his brakeman being A. S. Harding. A hobo is discovered -lying on the truss rods of the combined car; he can be seen by looking -around the side of the car; his position seems a perilous one, but our -train makes no stop till it gets to Hope, 84 miles, so he is allowed to -remain and take his chances. For several miles we pass through -magnificent cattle ranges and fine farming lands. As we approach Hope -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a>{144}</span> road skirts the shores of Lake Pend d’Oreille for about three -miles, giving us a fine view of this beautiful body of water. We arrive -at Hope 10.00 Eastern (7.00 Pacific) time and stop twenty-five minutes -to change engines. Here a change is also made in time; it changes from -Pacific to Mountain time, one hour later than Pacific and two hours -earlier than Eastern time. Hobo No. 2 changed his position from the -truss rods of the combined car to a pile of ties when the train stopped -at Hope. He was given a lunch by one of the dining-car boys and advised -not to anchor himself in the same place again, as the position was not -only a dangerous one, but very conspicuous. When asked his name he said -it was J. W. Kelsey, that he was trying to get home, had been away for -two years, and wanted to see his mother. Hobo No. 1 lays low, for he -knows should he for a moment vacate his narrow quarters under the -“Lafayette” there would be a scramble for his place. It is growing dusk, -and through the gloom of the dying day we have counted no less than -fifteen skulking forms about the train, watching for an opportunity to -secrete themselves underneath or about the train for the purpose of -obtaining free transportation.</p> - -<p>Bidding adieu to big-hearted, genial Captain Hale, who has been with us -for 357 miles, we leave Hope at 10.25 P. M. Eastern (8.25 P. M. -Mountain) time with N. P. engine No. 438, with Engineer Jim Bailey at -the throttle, whose fireman is John Ryan. Conductor William Gilbert has -charge of the train and his brakemen are T. S. McEachran and F. R. -Foote. This crew runs us to Helena, 297 miles. Ten miles from Hope we -cross Clark’s Fork, a branch of the Columbia River,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a>{145}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing144_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing144_sml.jpg" width="319" height="363" alt="Image not available: W. B. HALE, CONDUCTOR NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">W. B. HALE, CONDUCTOR NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and through the gathering darkness we can see that we have entered a -wild and rocky region, the road winding around and among mountain ranges -and snow-capped peaks, following the course of the stream we just -crossed for 60 miles.</p> - -<p>Captain Gilbert and his brakemen are lively, interesting company, and -entertain us during the evening with anecdotes and stories of Western -life. “Are you troubled much with tramps, captain?” some one asks, as -Conductor Gilbert, during the conversation, made some allusion to the -profession. “They do not give us much real trouble,” is the reply, “yet -they are a matter of concern, for we are never without them, and need to -be constantly on guard; there is always a Wandering Willie around -somewhere, and you never know what mischief he may be up to. There are -at least a dozen on this train to-night. The trucks are full and several -on top of the cars.” This is rather startling information, and I notice -Brother Sheppard clap his hand on his right hip pocket to make sure the -“critter” is there, and Alfalfa quietly unlocks the cupboard door, where -“our artillery” is kept. I see no sign of fear on the serene countenance -of Captain Gilbert and believe we’re not in danger; yet Brothers Maxwell -and Terry start through the train to make sure the vestibule doors are -barred and step traps fastened down. At Trout Creek, a small station 48 -miles from Hope, we stopped for water, and F. Hartman, roadmaster of the -Missoula and Hope Division, got aboard and went with us to Horse Plains. -It is now near midnight, and making my way from the smoker to the -“Marco” I turn in, wondering how the poor fellows who are hanging on to -the brake beams<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a>{146}</span> are enjoying themselves, for Bailey with the “438” is -switching them around the curves at a pretty lively rate.</p> - -<h3>FRIDAY, MAY 28th.</h3> - -<p>Our arrival in Helena at six o’clock this morning and the announcement -of an early breakfast soon has everybody astir. After breakfast we bid -adieu to jolly, whole-souled Captain Gilbert and his genial crew, and -under the escort of Assistant General Passenger Agent W. Stuart, -Assistant General Ticket Agent C. E. Dutton, and Conductor Dodds, of the -Northern Pacific Railway, and Messrs. E. Flaherty and H. D. Palmer, of -Helena Board of Trade, start out to see the town. Our time is limited, -for we are scheduled to leave at twelve o’clock, and it is impossible to -give all the interesting features of this remarkable city the attention -they deserve. Helena is a wealthy town; it is located in the centre of -one of the richest mining districts in the world; it is the capital of -Montana and the county seat of Lewis and Clarke County, with a -population of about 14,000; it is up to date in its financial, -educational, and religious institutions, and both private residences and -public buildings are models of architectural symmetry, strength, and -beauty. A military post named Fort Harrison has recently been -established here which will be one of the principal points for the -quartering of troops in the Northwest. A ride of almost three miles on -the electric line through this interesting city brings us to the Hotel -Broadwater and “Natatorium,” where the celebrated hot springs are -located. We are given the freedom of the bathing pool, which is one of -the largest and finest under cover in the world. The most of our party -take<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a>{147}</span> advantage of the treat, and for an hour the waters of the pool are -almost churned into foam by the sportive antics of the crowd, whose -capers afford great entertainment and amusement for those who do not -care to “get into the swim” with the rest. This place is much resorted -to by tourists, and invalids are said to be much benefited by bathing in -the waters of these hot springs, which are strongly impregnated with -sulphur, salt, and iron and heated by Nature’s process to a very -pleasant temperature.</p> - -<p>Leaving the Natatorium we are invited to the immense brewery -establishment of Nicholas Kessler, near by, to await the coming of our -train, which is to be brought here for us, as the railroad runs within a -short distance of the place. Mr. Kessler is a former Pennsylvanian, one -of those hospitable, generous, big-hearted Pennsylvania Dutchmen, and -when he learned we hailed from his native State his pleasure was greater -than he was able to express and his generosity almost boundless. In the -fine pavilion adjoining his establishment he spread us a sumptuous lunch -and seemed aggrieved that we didn’t eat and drink all that was placed -before us, which was enough for 500 people. When at last our train comes -and we bid the old gentleman farewell there are tears in his eyes as he -tells us how happy he is that we called to see him, and that he would -never forget the Pennsylvania Railroad conductors. He accompanies us -over to the train (so do several of his men with boxes on their -shoulders), and as we steam away and leave behind us the city of Helena -and our generous-hearted new-made friends, we notice in the “refreshment -corner” of our combined car a pile of boxes bearing the trade mark of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a>{148}</span> -“Nic” Kessler, and another box containing fine oranges that bears the -mark of H. S. Hepner, a merchant of Helena.</p> - -<p>The space between the ice chests beneath the dining car is vacant; our -mascot has fled, having ridden in that uncomfortable position for 782 -miles.</p> - -<p>It is 12.55 P. M. Helena time when we leave here for Butte over the -Montana Central branch of the Great Northern Railway. We have G. N. -engine No. 458, Engineer Pete Leary, Fireman R. Hanna, Conductor M. -Sweeney, Brakemen F. W. Minshall and F. J. Chapman, who take us to -Butte, a distance of 75 miles. As a guest we have with us Trainmaster J. -W. Donovan, of the Montana Central, who will accompany us to Butte. We -find Mr. Donovan an agreeable and entertaining gentleman who tells us -much that is interesting of the country through which we are passing. -“This branch was built,” says Mr. Donovan, “for almost the sole purpose -of developing the mining interests of the country. You will see very -little of any other industry from here to Butte than mining.”</p> - -<p>After leaving Clancy we ascend a steep grade, from which we look down -into a pretty valley that Mr. Donovan tells us is called Prickly Pear -Cañon. Passing Amazon we follow Boulder River for 12 miles as it courses -through the beautiful valley of the same name. Four miles from Amazon we -pass through Boulder and can see that it is a thriving town. “Boulder is -the county seat of Jefferson County,” says Mr. Donovan, “and has a -population of about 1200. It ranks as one of the important cities of -Montana, being in the centre of a rich mining region.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a>{149}</span></p> - -<p>This is a wonderful mining district through which we are passing, all -the hills and mountain sides being literally honeycombed with the gaping -mouths of mines. Eight miles from Boulder we come to the town of Basin, -“the largest city,” says Mr. Donovan, “in Jefferson County, having a -population of about 200 more than Boulder.” The railroad runs close to -the ruins of what had apparently been a large building recently -destroyed by fire, and we inquire of Mr. Donovan what it had been. “Two -years ago,” he replies, “the Basin and Bay State Smelting Company -erected an immense plant that was destroyed by fire as soon as it was in -operation. To build and equip the plant cost over $100,000, and its -destruction was not only a heavy loss but a serious blow to the mining -industries of Basin and all the adjacent country; but I hear it is to be -rebuilt if the output and value of the ore in this section will warrant -it.”</p> - -<p>Our progress has become very slow and engine No. 458 is laboring very -hard. “We are now ascending a grade,” says Mr. Donovan, “of 116 feet to -the mile and have eight miles to go before we reach the summit.” It is a -tedious climb, but we do not weary of viewing the wondrous mountain -scenery. As we slowly approach the top of the grade we obtain an -excellent view of Bison River Cañon, an exceedingly wild, rugged, and -picturesque region. At last we reach the summit at an altitude of 6350 -feet above sea level; this is the dividing line between the Atlantic and -Pacific slopes. From this point the waters flow westward to the Pacific -and eastward to the Atlantic Oceans. I look at my watch; it is 7.55 P. -M. in Philadelphia and 5.55 here. We now make better time, and in twenty -minutes we<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a>{150}</span> arrive in Butte, and are met by Brother O. L. Chapman, C. -C., and Brother H. C. Grey, secretary and treasurer of Butte Division -No. 294, also Brothers J. H. Dunn and A. H. Elliott, of same division, -who introduce us to Major Dawson, “the man who knows everybody in -Butte,” and to Mr. J. R. Wharton, manager of Butte Street Railway, who -gives us the freedom of his lines. Our people are escorted by the kind -brothers who met us, by carriages and street cars, to the Butte Hotel, -where refreshments are served, after which we are loaded into two large -band wagons and driven through the principal streets of the city. Butte -is a wonderful city, worth a trip across the continent to see. It is -strictly a mining town and has a population of over 38,000. It is -situated near the headwaters of Clark’s Fork of the Columbia River, on -the west slope of the dividing range of the Rocky Mountains. Butte is -the county seat of Silver Bow County, a county marvelously rich in its -mineral products, the aggregate value of its gold, silver, and copper -product for one year reaching the enormous sum of $9,060,917.59; and yet -it is claimed the mining industry in this district is still in its -infancy.</p> - -<p>Butte is a city of fine, substantial buildings that are up to date in -style and beauty of architecture, and yet it is a bald and barren town, -for not a tree, a leaf, a bush, a flower, or a blade of grass can we see -anywhere within the length or breadth of its limits. It is surrounded on -every hand by smoking smelters and grinning mines, and its streets are -filled with rugged, stalwart miners. The eight-hour system of labor is -in vogue here, and the mines and smelters run day and night. The great<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a>{151}</span> -Anaconda Mine, owned and operated by the Anaconda Company, the richest -mining corporation in the world, extends, we are told, under the very -centre of the city of Butte, the Butte Hotel standing directly over it. -The pay rolls of the mining industries of Butte aggregate $1,500,000 -yearly. We are driven out to the Colorado Smelter, and on the way pass -the Centennial Brewery, where a short stop is made to obtain some -souvenirs. We are shown through the great smelter, and when we come out -it has grown quite dark. Our drivers are old stagers and understand -handling the reins. To one wagon are attached six white horses, driven -by W. M. McIntyre, of the New York Life Insurance Company, and to the -other wagon are four bays, driven by Hanks Monk, a well-known character -of the West. Hanks is an old stage driver, and claims to be a son of the -celebrated Hanks Monk of Horace Greeley and Mark Twain fame. Mr. Monk -tells us that he is a Mormon, and a deacon in Salt Lake City Church, but -has only one wife, and has found one to be plenty. He is a genial, -good-hearted fellow, who, notwithstanding the hardships of his rugged -life of fifty-seven years, looks but forty. Hanks claims he followed the -trail for many years and never got far astray, but he will have to -acknowledge that he got off the trail once, when he ran the wagon load -of Pennsylvania Railroad conductors into a sand bank in going from the -Colorado Smelter to the station in Butte on the night of May 28th, 1897. -Hanks, however, redeemed himself by the dexterous and graceful manner in -which he guided those bewildered horses until he struck the proper trail -again, and brought us to the station all O. K. It is 10 o’clock P. M. in -Butte and time for our train to start. We bid<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a>{152}</span> our kind and generous -friends and brothers adieu and get aboard. Engine No. 305, in charge of -Engineer J. Else, is drawing us, and Conductor J. A. West has charge of -the train; C. Dunham is our brakeman. We have as a guest on the train -Mr. H. E. Dunn, traveling agent of the Oregon Short Line. After a delay -of an hour at Silver Bow, waiting to get a helper engine to assist up a -grade, we start on our way again at 1.15 A. M. Eastern (11.15 P. M. -Mountain) time, and I make my way to my berth in the “Marco.”</p> - -<h3>SATURDAY, MAY 29th.</h3> - -<p>Was awakened this morning between two and three o’clock by a jar that -almost tumbled me out of bed; thought at first our train had left the -track and had run into the side of a mountain; I lay quiet a moment, -expecting another crash. It didn’t come, and I realized our train was -standing still. “Guess I was dreaming,” I said to myself, as I reach -over, raise the window blind, and look out. A freight train is moving -past and our train is motionless. Mrs. S. is awake, and my movement -informs her that I am in the same condition. “What was that?” she -quietly asks, referring to the shock that awakened us. “I don’t know, my -dear, but I’m sure it was something,” I reply, satisfied now that it -wasn’t a dream. We believe the danger is over; that there is nothing to -worry about, and are soon asleep again.</p> - -<p>Arose this morning about the usual time and find we have just left -Pocatello, Idaho, 262 miles from Butte City. We have come through much -interesting country<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a>{153}</span> while asleep, and have missed seeing the beautiful -Idaho Falls. The shaking up we received last night was caused by -Engineer Oram coupling engine No. 760 to our train at Lima. Oram -miscalculated the distance and banged into our train with more force -than he intended. At Pocatello engine No. 760 is exchanged for O. S. L. -engine No. 735, with Engineer J. Andrews and Fireman Standrod in the -cab, Conductor G. W. Surman and Brakeman H. Hewett, who run us to Ogden, -134 miles.</p> - -<p>Pocatello is located in Fort Hall, Indian Reservation, and while passing -through this district we see a number of the natives. Much of the -country is level and covered with sage brush and bunch grass, -constituting immense cattle ranges, with here and there a plot of land -under cultivation, watered by irrigation, while at a distance on either -side can be seen great ranges of snow-capped mountains. We are reminded -of Chester County and home as we see the familiar name of “Oxford” above -a little station door as we fly past, midway between Dayton and Cannon. -We cross the State Line and enter Utah. Coming to Cache Junction, we are -in view of Bear River, that feeds the great irrigating canal constructed -by the Bay State Canal and Irrigating Company at a cost of $2,000,000. -This canal is about 80 miles long, the waters from which irrigate many -thousand acres of land; it is converting this dry and barren desert -country into a land of fertility, fruits, and flowers.</p> - -<p>As we approach Ogden this great improvement is very noticeable in the -beautiful, productive farms and homesteads that are seen on every hand. -The most of the settlers through this locality, we are told, are -Mormons,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a>{154}</span> but the aspect of their condition and surroundings show them -to be a thrifty, industrious, enterprising people. We arrive in Ogden at -11.20 A. M., where a stop of only twenty minutes is allowed. We are met -by Conductor E. S. Croker, C. C. of Wasatch Division No. 124, and J. H. -McCoy, of same division, who is yardmaster for the Union Pacific -Railroad at this point. Much as we desire to make a tour of this -interesting city, our limited time will not allow it, but we can see -that it is a thriving business place. It is situated on the western -slope of the Wasatch Range, at an elevation of 4301 feet above sea -level, on a triangle formed by the Weber and Ogden Rivers, which, -uniting a short distance west of the city, flow across the famous -historic valley and empty into the Great Salt Lake.</p> - -<p>At Ogden, going west, the Union Pacific Railroad time changes from -Mountain to Pacific time. At 1.40 P. M. Eastern (11.40 A. M. Mountain) -time we start on our way again with R. G. W. engine No. 41, in charge of -Engineer J. Stewart, Conductor George King, and Brakeman J. Crompton. -From Ogden to Salt Lake City we are in continual view of the Great Salt -Lake, and pass a number of evaporating dams, where a large amount of -salt is procured through the process of evaporation. We arrive in Salt -Lake City at 12.30 P. M. Mountain time, and leaving the train we are -again hustled into wagons and driven over the city, the places of -interest being pointed out and explained by the drivers. Time and space -will not permit me to note and describe all the interesting features of -this historic and truly wonderful city. We passed through the famous -Eagle Gateway and halted on a lofty promontory overlooking<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a>{155}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing154a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing154a_sml.jpg" width="313" height="225" alt="Image not available: “DAN,” SALT LAKE CITY RAILROAD STATION, UTAH." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">“DAN,” SALT LAKE CITY RAILROAD STATION, UTAH.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing154b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing154b_sml.jpg" width="316" height="266" alt="Image not available: GRAVE OF BRIGHAM YOUNG, SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">GRAVE OF BRIGHAM YOUNG, SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH.</span> -</div> - -<p>Temple Square, where we had a grand view of the magnificent $10,000,000 -Mormon Temple. Near the Temple is the Tabernacle, an immense, -singular-looking affair, with a roof like the shell of a huge tortoise. -We are shown the Lion House and Beehive House, former residences of -Brigham Young and his large family, and pass the grave where the remains -of the great leader lie. It is a plain, ordinary-looking mound, inclosed -with a common iron fence. The great monument erected to the imperishable -fame of Brigham Young is this beautiful, remarkable city that he founded -fifty years ago. For thirty years he was the temporal and religious -leader of his people here, and Salt Lake City was almost strictly -Mormon. It is exclusive no longer, for of its present population of -65,000 about one-half, we are told, are Gentiles or Christians. “The -Christian Science faith is making rapid advances,” says our driver, “and -many Mormons are being converted to that creed.” Brigham Young was the -father of fifty-six children; when he died he left seventeen widows, -sixteen sons, and twenty-eight daughters to mourn his loss, many of whom -are living yet.</p> - -<p>We are driven through Liberty Park, where is still standing the first -flour mill built in Utah. Returning to the train we get dinner, after -which our people scatter through the city to see the sights and gather -more souvenirs. We are all impressed with the beauty and regularity of -the streets, which all cross at right angles, are 132 feet wide, -including the sidewalks, which are 20 feet in width, bordered with -beautiful Lombardy poplar and locust trees. Along each side of the -street flows a clear, cold stream of water, which, with the beauty of -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a>{156}</span> trees and the sweet fragrance of the locust blossoms, gives to the -city an all-pervading air of coolness, comfort, and repose which is -exceedingly inviting to a warm and weary tourist. The hour grows late -and the time arrives to return to our train, which is sidetracked for -occupancy at the Rio Grande Western depot. Several of our party gather -at the corner of Main and Second South Street to await the coming of a -trolley car that will convey us to the depot, about two miles away. -According to the schedule of the line a car should pass every ten -minutes, but to-night must be an exception, for it is forty-five minutes -before our car arrives, and several of the party have started to walk. -It is near midnight when we reach our train and turn in for the night.</p> - -<h3>SUNDAY, MAY 30th.</h3> - -<p>We are all astir bright and early this morning, and after breakfast, -through the courtesy of the managers of the Saltair and Los Angeles -Railway, we are tendered a trip on their line to Saltair, one of the -latest attractions on the Great Salt Lake, 10 miles from the city. We -leave the Rio Grande Western depot at 9.30 on a Saltair and Los Angeles -train with engine No. 2, Engineer A. M. Clayton, Fireman John Little, -Conductor Joseph Risley, Brakeman F. T. Bailey. We have a thirty -minutes’ pleasant ride through an interesting country. The first few -miles we pass through a district of cozy homes, surrounded by fertile -fields and gardens, the result of industry and irrigation; then come -great level stretches of country, utilized as grazing ground, upon which -can be seen feeding thousands of sheep. As we<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a>{157}</span> approach the “Great Dead -Sea” of America we see that gathering salt is the chief industry, and we -pass many basins or dams where hundreds of tons of this useful commodity -are procured through the process of evaporation. Arriving at our -destination we find Saltair is a magnificent mammoth pavilion built on -the waters of Great Salt Lake, 4000 feet from shore. A track resting -upon piles connects the pavilion with the mainland, and over this our -train is run.</p> - -<p>Saltair was erected in 1893 by Salt Lake capitalists at an expense of -$250,000. It is of Moorish style of architecture, 1115 feet long, 335 -feet wide, and 130 feet high from the water to the top of the main -tower. It is over a quarter of a mile from shore and rests upon 2500 -ten-inch piling or posts driven firmly into the bottom of the lake. It -contains 620 bath houses or dressing rooms, and connected with each room -is an apartment equipped with a fresh-water shower bath. Visitors who -wish to drink or lunch or lounge will find at their disposal a fine -apartment 151 by 153 feet, furnished with convenient tables and -comfortable chairs, or if it is their desire to “trip the light -fantastic toe,” they will find the ball room always open, a fine piano, -and dancing floor 140 by 250 feet. At night this wonderful place is -lighted by electricity, there being 1250 incandescent and 40 arc lamps, -and above all, in the centre of the building, there is an arc light of -2000 candle power. The bathing season has not opened yet and the water -is said to be cold, but many of us have a strong desire to take a plunge -in this remarkable and famous lake. The temperature of the water is -found to be about 75 degrees, and opinion is divided as to whether or -not it is too<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a>{158}</span> cold. Manager Wyman takes off his shoes and stockings and -dabbles in the water. “It is not cold,” he exclaims, “and I’m going in;” -and procuring a bathing suit he is soon splashing in the brine. His -example is rapidly followed by others, until the majority of our party, -both men and women, are floating and floundering around in water so salt -that its density enables one to swim and float with ease, but you are -helpless when you attempt to place your feet upon the bottom; the water -within the bathing limits averages about five feet in depth, and the -bottom is hard, smooth, and sandy. “If you get water in your mouth spit -it out, and if you get it in your eyes don’t rub them,” is the advice -given us by the bath attendant. If you get this water in your mouth you -want to spit it out right away; that part of the caution is unnecessary, -for it is the worst stuff I ever tasted. If you get it in your eyes you -will want to rub them, and rub them hard, but don’t do it, and you will -be surprised how soon the intense smarting will cease.</p> - -<p>We love to swim and dive and splash and sport in the water, and have -bathed in many places, but in a brine like this never before. In fact, -it has been said that nothing like it can be found anywhere this side of -the Dead Sea of Palestine. We remained in the water for an hour and all -thoroughly enjoyed its peculiar qualities. Several of the party who -never swam before did so to-day, but it was because they couldn’t help -it, and it was better than a circus to see them. Not one of us regret or -will ever forget our trip to Saltair and our bath in Great Salt Lake. -Strange as it may seem, this great inland sea occupies an altitude 4000 -feet higher<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a>{159}</span> than the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. It is 93 miles long, -with an average width of 43 miles, containing almost 4000 square miles. -It is shallow compared with the depth of other large bodies of water, -its deepest places measuring but 60 feet. A number of islands rise out -of its waters, the largest being Stansbury and Antelope, near its -southern shore. It is between these two islands that beautiful, -destined-to-be-celebrated Saltair is located.</p> - -<p>Returning, we arrive at the Rio Grande Western depot about 12.30, and -after partaking of lunch in our dining car we go in a body to attend -services in the Mormon Tabernacle. They were looking for us, for we had -been invited to come, and we find a section of vacant seats awaiting us -near the centre of the immense auditorium. We are all favorably -impressed with what we see and hear, the Mormon manner of worship being -not unlike that of any other church. So far as we can discern, the -speakers make no effort to expound any particular or peculiar creed or -doctrine, but preach charity, love, and duty to one another and -obedience to the laws of God, which is a religion good enough for the -entire world. An attractive feature of the service is the singing, the -choir consisting of 400 voices, accompanied by the music of what is -claimed to be one of the largest church organs in the world, and led by -a gentleman highly skilled in his profession, who manages his great -concourse of singers with remarkable accuracy and precision. This music -is aided and enhanced by the peculiar and marvelous acoustic properties -of the building, which seems to convey and distribute sound in such a -wonderful manner that the entire edifice<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a>{160}</span> is filled with the grand and -charming melody. We are all delighted and highly appreciate the -privilege of having been allowed to visit this, one of the noted wonders -of this famous Mormon city. The Tabernacle is an oddly-constructed -building, 250 feet long, 150 feet wide, and 80 feet high, covered with -an oval-shaped roof that, without any visible support except where it -rests upon the walls, spans the vast auditorium beneath, which will seat -over 8000 people.</p> - -<p>The place was well filled to-day, and we are told that it is not unusual -to have a congregation of 10,000 within the inclosure during Sabbath -service. There are twenty double doors nine feet in width, which open -outward, like the great doors of a barn, and the floor being on a level -with the ground outside, the vast congregation is enabled to make its -exit in a very few minutes without crowding or confusion.</p> - -<p>The services being over, we soon find ourselves outside the building, -but still within the inclosure that constitutes Temple Square. This -square or “block,” containing about ten acres, is surrounded by a wall -two feet thick and fourteen feet high, composed of adobe bricks built -upon a foundation of stone. Four great gates, one on each side, lead -into the inclosure, which is ornamented with fine shade trees and -beautiful flowers, and contains the three famous buildings of the -Mormons, or “Latter Day Saints,” as they prefer to be called. The -Tabernacle, where regular service is held each Sabbath, is the only -edifice to which the public is admitted. Assembly Hall, a large granite -building of unique design, erected in 1880 at a cost of $90,000, is used -exclusively by Church officials for special meetings<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a>{161}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing160_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing160_sml.jpg" width="539" height="340" alt="Image not available: THE MORMON TEMPLE AND SQUARE, SALT LAKE CITY." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE MORMON TEMPLE AND SQUARE, SALT LAKE CITY.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">pertaining to the business of the Church. The Temple, a grand granite -structure, the building and furnishing of which, we are told, has cost -many millions of dollars, is as a sealed book to the outside world. Its -interior is regarded as holy, consecrated ground, that has never been -contaminated by an “unbeliever’s” presence. To admit a Gentile within -its walls would be a fearful desecration. We cannot get inside, and gaze -in admiration and curiosity upon its grand and massive walls, wondering -what mighty mysteries are hidden within. Near the Temple that he -designed and the corner stone of which he laid stands the statue of -Brigham Young.</p> - -<p>Leaving the grounds, our party scatters, some returning to the train and -others strolling around the city. The sun shines very hot, but it is -cool and refreshing in the shade. Mrs. S. and myself make a call on Mrs. -Catharine Palmer, residing on State Street, a sister of Mr. C. K. Dolby, -of Delaware County, Pennsylvania, an acquaintance of mine, who requested -me to call on his sister had I the opportunity while in Salt Lake City. -We are cordially received and spend a pleasant hour with Mr. and Mrs. -Palmer, who are well advanced in years and very comfortably fixed. Their -residence is surrounded by great maple trees, planted by Mr. Palmer many -years ago, and he now loves to sit on his porch under their grateful -shade and enjoy the fruits of his well-spent days of industry and toil.</p> - -<p>On our return to the depot I encounter a party of the “boys” under the -escort of Mr. James Devine, chief of Salt Lake City fire department, an -acquaintance of Brother Leary’s, who are starting on a little tour -through<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a>{162}</span> the town. I join them, and boarding an electric car we make a -pleasant trip and are shown many places of interest. Mr. Devine is an -excellent guide and entertains us with a number of anecdotes and stories -of the people and their customs. “Who is the present head of the Mormon -Church, Mr. Devine?” I ask. “An old gentleman by the name of W. -Woodruff,” replies Mr. Devine, “but it will not be long, I think, before -they will need another, for Mr. Woodruff is past ninety years of age. A -short time ago, in commemoration of his ninetieth birthday, a family -reunion was held, at which gathering his children, grandchildren, and -greatgrandchildren numbered 90, one direct descendant for each year of -his life. The old man is quite wealthy and owns some of the most fertile -land in the State of Utah, if not in the world. I know it to be a fact -that an experiment was made last year with an acre of his land to -determine the amount of potatoes that can be raised per acre under -favorable conditions, and that acre produced the extraordinary yield of -800 bushels. A like experiment in producing wheat resulted in the -unprecedented yield of 82 bushels.” We can hardly credit this, but Mr. -Devine declares it is true. One of the “boys” has been holding a letter -in his hand, addressed to some friend in the East, and for some time has -been waiting for a chance to deposit it in a letter box without getting -left; at last he sees a chance, and quickly springing from the car when -it stops at a corner to discharge some passengers, he tries to find an -opening in what he supposes is a United States receptacle for letters. -“Hold on, there,” exclaims Chief Devine, “I have a key for that if you -want to get into it.” It is a fire-alarm box into which our brother is -trying to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a>{163}</span> insert his epistle. “Twenty-five dollars fine for tampering -with a fire alarm in this town,” says Brother Maxwell, as the abashed -victim of the mistake returns to the car. “Yer-hef-ner bizness to monkey -with it,” chided Brother Schuler; but the proper place is soon found and -the letter safely mailed.</p> - -<p>We called on Jacob Moritz, president of the Utah Brewing Company, of -Salt Lake City, who showed us over his immense establishment and -entertained us in a very generous manner. During the conversation, Mr. -Moritz, while speaking about the decline of polygamy on account of the -vigorous enforcement of the law that forbids a plurality of wives, -recited an incident that came under his observation a short time since. -An old Mormon having several wives fell a victim to the stern mandate of -the law. Being under indictment for a criminal offense results in -disfranchisement, but the old gentleman did not know he could not vote. -Pending his trial an election occurred and the old man went to the polls -to cast his ballot, but was sternly challenged. He was dumfounded at -first, but was soon made to understand why he was denied the privileges -of citizenship. Raising his right hand toward Heaven he exclaimed, -“Gentlemen, you won’t allow me to vote, but, thank God, I have -twenty-four sons who can vote.” “That’s a family of boys to be proud -of,” remarked Brother Leary. “If they were illegally procured,” added -Brother Reilly. Mr. Moritz offered a fine cut-glass goblet to the one -who could come nearest guessing the number of drams it would hold. -Brother Waddington got closest to it and carried off the prize.</p> - -<p>Bidding adieu to our kind host, we returned to our<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a>{164}</span> train and found -dinner ready in the dining car. Chief Devine returned and took dinner -with us. We also had with us as a guest Mr. Nymphas C. Murdock, of -Charlestown, Wasatch County, Utah. Brother Barrett met Mr. Murdock at -the Tabernacle services this afternoon, and becoming interested in his -conversation invited him to visit our train. Mr. Murdock is a bishop in -the Mormon Church and an intelligent and highly entertaining gentleman. -Fifty years ago, when but ten years of age, he came with his parents, -who were followers of Brigham Young, on that famous journey to the Great -Salt Lake Valley. He has been identified with the Church since its -establishment here, and was the first settler in Charlestown, which is -located about 35 miles west of Salt Lake City, and he has been -postmaster there for 31 years. Mr. Murdock made no effort to intrude -upon us any of the peculiar doctrines or beliefs of his Church, but -answered all our questions in a frank and pleasant manner, giving us a -great deal of useful and interesting information. “Tell us something -about your Temple, Mr. Murdock,” I requested, “and why you consider it -too holy for visitors to enter?” “The Temple is considered holy because -it has been consecrated to holy creeds and devoted to sacred objects,” -answered Mr. Murdock in a solemn, quiet tone. “The spirits of the dead -assemble in the Temple to commune with living friends.” “If that is so I -don’t blame them for excluding the public,” I said to myself, “for if -there is anything that will make a spirit scoot it is the presence of an -unbeliever,” but I remained perfectly quiet, for I felt there was more -coming. “We have a creed,” continued Mr. Murdock, “that declares the -living can be wedded to the dead, and it is in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a>{165}</span> the Temple that this -most sacred of all ceremonies is solemnized and performed.” “I can’t see -how it is possible,” I quietly remarked. “I will explain,” Mr. Murdock -gently said; “to the ‘believer’ it is very plain and simple. Suppose, -for instance, I am betrothed to a woman who sickens and dies before we -are married; if she truly loved me in life her spirit will meet me at -the Temple altar, where marriage rites will be performed that will unite -us for all eternity.” I really think Mr. Murdock is a good and honest -man and believes what he told us, but to us the whole matter seemed like -an interesting fairy story—very pretty, but outside the realm of truth -and reason. There were some pertinent questions in my mind I felt like -asking, but did not wish to injure the feelings or offend a kind and -entertaining guest, and so we bid him good-bye and let him depart in -peace.</p> - -<p>A number of our people went over to Fort Douglas this afternoon and were -highly pleased with the trip. George “Alfalfa” was along and met an old -chum over there in the person of William Barnes. William was a messenger -in the employ of Mayor Fitler, Philadelphia, when George and he were -buddies. He likes army life first rate and George says he is a good -soldier. The troops at Fort Douglas are all colored, commanded by white -officers. We are scheduled to leave this evening at nine o’clock, and it -is drawing near the time; our train is at the station and Manager Wyman -has ascertained that our people are all “on deck.” We must not forget -“Dan,” the pet bear at the Rio Grande Western depot. He was captured -several years ago when a cub and has been confined in a pen near the -station ever since. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a>{166}</span> is a fine big fellow now, and has been faring -well since our visit, for no one of our party thinks of passing the pen -of Dan without giving him some sweetmeats, of which he is very fond. My -last thoughts are of Dan, for finding I have some lumps of sugar and a -few cakes in my pocket, I hasten to his pen and give them to him, and -return just in time to get aboard. We leave promptly at 11.00 P. M. -Eastern (9.00 P. M. Mountain) time, over the Rio Grande Western Railway, -bound for Grand Junction, with the same engine and crew that brought us -from Ogden to Salt Lake City. As a guest we have with us Train -Supervisor Frank Selgrath, who will go with us to Grand Junction. At -Clear Creek, 83 miles from Salt Lake City, we get a ten-wheel engine, -No. 132, to help us up a six-mile grade with a rise of 200 feet to the -mile. This is a fine, picturesque country, we are told, through which we -are passing, but not being able to see in the dark, we cannot judge of -its beauty, and finding it is near midnight I hie away to my little bed -and am soon fast asleep.</p> - -<h3>MONDAY, MAY 31st.</h3> - -<p>Awakened this morning about six o’clock by Mrs. S. remarking, “I never -saw the beat! Who would believe that so much of our country is desert?” -I thought she was talking in her sleep, but turning over I find her -gazing out of the window at the rapidly-fleeting landscape. We have -drifted away from the mountains and rocks and are crossing a level, -barren plain. For miles we see no sign of habitation or cultivation, but -now in the distance we catch sight of an irrigating canal, with here and -there a plot of land under cultivation whose fertility and verdure<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a>{167}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing166_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing166_sml.jpg" width="363" height="446" alt="Image not available: CHAS. E. HOOPER, OF THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE -RAILROAD." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">CHAS. E. HOOPER, OF THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE -RAILROAD.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">break the hard lines of the desert monotony. We pass a station and upon -the name board we see the word “Fruita,” a singular name, we think, for -a station; but in the two seconds’ glance we have of its surroundings we -can but feel that it is appropriate. Irrigating ditches, fertile fields, -thrifty orchards, and blooming gardens are all seen in that fleeting -glance, and we are more than ever impressed with the fact that it needs -but water to convert these desert tracts into verdant fields. A number -of our people are astir, and we too “turn out.” We find we are in -Colorado, having crossed the State line at Utaline, a little station 35 -miles west of Grand Junction, which we are now approaching, and where we -arrive about seven o’clock. We halt here only long enough to change -engines, but in our brief stay we can see that Grand Junction is quite a -town. It has a population of about 4000; is located at the confluence of -the Gunnison and Grand Rivers, with an elevation of 4500 feet; it is -quite a railway centre, being the terminus of both the broad and -narrow-gauge lines of the Denver and Rio Grande, the Rio Grande Western -and the Colorado Midland Railways.</p> - -<p>At 9.08 A. M. Eastern (7.08 A. M. Mountain) time we leave Grand -Junction, on the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, with engine No. 522, -Engineer “Cyclone” Thompson, Fireman Bert Roberts, Conductor William M. -Newman, Brakemen J. Grout and O. McCullough. Conductor Hugh Long, of -Salida Division No. 132, and Charles E. Hooper, advertising agent of the -Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, met our train at Grand Junction, and we -find them a pleasing and entertaining addition to our party. They -present us with descriptive time<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a>{168}</span> tables, illustrated pamphlets, and -souvenir itineraries of our trip over the wonderful scenic route of the -Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. From Grand Junction to Glenwood Springs -we follow the Grand River through the Valley of the Grand, amid grand -and beautiful scenery. As we approach Glenwood Springs and pass the -little stations of Rifle and Antlers, Brother Sloane grows very -enthusiastic, for this is a noted hunting district, with which our -brother is familiar. From Newcastle to Glenwood Springs, a distance of -12 miles, we traverse closely the north banks of the Grand River, and -parallel with the tracks of the Colorado Midland Railroad on the -opposite side.</p> - -<p>Arriving at Glenwood Springs at 9.40 A. M., we go direct from the train -to the springs under the escort of Mr. Hooper, who has made arrangements -to give our party free access to the bathing establishment, where we are -very courteously received, and each one who desires to bathe is -furnished with a suit and a dressing room. Steps lead down into the -pool, which is about an acre in size and filled with warm, sulphurous -water to the depth of four to five feet. The hot water, at a temperature -of 120 degrees, gushes into the pool on one side at the rate of about -2000 gallons per minute, and on the opposite side an ice-cold mountain -stream pours in at about the same rate, keeping the water at a pleasant -bathing temperature.</p> - -<p>We spent an hour in the pool and enjoyed it mightily. How much fun we -had we can never tell, but we know we had fun, and other people knew it, -too, for the following item appeared in to-day’s <i>Avalanche</i>, an -afternoon Glenwood Springs paper:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a>{169}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing168a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing168a_sml.jpg" width="222" height="140" alt="Image not available: BATHING POOL AT GLENWOOD SPRINGS, COLORADO." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">BATHING POOL AT GLENWOOD SPRINGS, COLORADO.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing168b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing168b_sml.jpg" width="319" height="179" alt="Image not available: IN THE POOL AT GLENWOOD SPRINGS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">IN THE POOL AT GLENWOOD SPRINGS.</span> -</div> - -<p class="c"> -“<span class="smcap">Conductors in the Pool.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>“The Pennsylvania Railroad conductors who arrived in Glenwood Springs -this morning from the West had more fun in the pool than a lot of wild -Indians. Their shouts of mirth and their laughter could be heard at -Cardiff, three miles south. If the Indians ever had as much fun in that -pool as those Pennsylvania Railroad conductors, then, Wampam woopham -longheir spookham.”</p> - -<p>We all feel that this item does us great honor, but we are puzzled for -awhile to understand the meaning of the closing expression, until one of -our party who had made a study of savage classic lore interpreted it as -meaning, “Yankem, spankem, daredevil blankem.”</p> - -<p>After leaving the pool, another hour was spent in visiting the sulphur -springs and vapor cave and in writing and mailing letters. The latter we -did in the beautiful Hotel Colorado, which is located near the bathing -establishment and is said to be one of the finest-equipped hotels -between the Atlantic and Pacific. The Grand River separates the baths -from the town, and is crossed by a double-decker bridge, the lower deck -for vehicles, the upper for pedestrians. We recrossed the bridge and -after a short wait for our train to be brought to us we again got -aboard, and at 3.00 P. M. Eastern (1.00 P. M. Mountain) time left -Glenwood Springs bound for Salida.</p> - -<p>For 16 miles we wind through the cañon of the Grand River, and view with -feelings of admiration and awe those towering walls of rock of such -peculiar construction and varied colors that we wonder what remarkable -process of Nature could have ever formed them thus.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a>{170}</span> At Gypsum, 25 miles -from Glenwood Springs, Grand River disappears from view and we come in -sight of Eagle River, following it for several miles. We pass great beds -of lava and can see, away in the distance, a burned and blackened course -where the lava had flowed down a chasm in the mountain, perhaps -thousands of years ago. On the plateaus, at the foot of towering cliffs, -are numerous little farms in a thrifty state of cultivation. We stop at -Minturn to change engines, and bid “Cyclone” Thompson and his trusty -fireman, Bert Roberts, good-bye.</p> - -<p>We leave in a few minutes with engine No. 524. Engineer Al. Philliber -and Fireman Charley Wilcox are in the cab, “Billy” Newman and his -brakemen remain with us. Conductor Newman is a member of Denver Division -No. 44 and an enthusiastic lover of the order. He is a model conductor -and an entertaining companion. E. A. Thayer, Esq., superintendent of -hotel, dining, and restaurant service, is our guest from Glenwood -Springs to Salida, and we find him an interesting gentleman. Brother -Dougherty has found an old friend in Brother Hugh Long, and he has much -enjoyment in his company. Charley Hooper is everybody’s friend and -always has an admiring, interested group around him, and if we could -only remember all that Charley tells us we could write an intensely -interesting volume. He is perfectly familiar with all of this wonderful -country and is an exceedingly interesting companion.</p> - -<p>Soon after leaving Minturn we enter Eagle River Cañon, whose sloping, -pine-fringed walls rise to the height of over 2000 feet on either side, -almost shutting out the light of day. A heavy shower adds to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a>{171}</span> gloom, -but does not detract from the interest, for these mighty mountain sides -are honeycombed with hundreds of mines and dotted with the cabins of the -miners. It is very curious and wonderful to see a human habitation -hanging, as it were, a thousand feet in the air, on the side of a -mountain, where it would seem a mountain goat could hardly obtain a -foothold; yet there they are, and many of them—in one place an entire -village of red and white cottages, so very high up that they look like -miniature houses or dove cots suspended in the air. The products of the -mines are lowered to the railroad tracks by means of tramways operated -by endless chains or cables, and material is conveyed to the lofty -residents by the same novel arrangement.</p> - -<p>For four miles we wind up through this marvelous mountain ravine, deeply -interested in the wonderful sights and scenery of this extraordinary -mining industry. A short stop is made at Belden, where extensive gold -mines are in operation, but so high up on the mountain side are the -shafts or entrances to the mines that it is impossible to visit them in -the limited time we have. Since leaving Minturn our course has been -gradually upward, and we have Engineer Amberson, with helper engine No. -513, to assist us up the grade. Emerging from the famous and -never-to-be-forgotten Eagle River Cañon, we shortly come to the mining -town of Red Cliff. It is a lively, thrifty place of about 1000 -inhabitants, has an elevation of 8671 feet, and is surrounded by grand -mountain scenery. From this point Mr. Hooper directs our attention to a -view of the Mount of the Holy Cross, but only a glimpse is obtained of -the great white cross and then it is lost to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a>{172}</span> view. “Distance lends -enchantment to the view,” quotes Mr. Thayer. “Do you know,” he -continues, “were it possible to transport you to the summit of yonder -mount, 20 miles away, and set you down, you would see no semblance of a -cross? You would only see rugged rocks, desolate peaks, and snow-filled -ravines; you would look in vain for the sublime and typical beauty that -you so easily discern 20 miles or more away. You would see, were you in -a proper location, the conditions and materials that make your beautiful -picture. A great valley or ravine extends down the mountain side, into -which the snows of many Winters have drifted. This is one of Nature’s -perpetual ice houses, whose supply never becomes exhausted. Across the -face of the mountain, near the summit, crossing this ravine at right -angles, is another great depression or fissure, likewise filled with -perpetual ice and snow. All the surroundings are rugged, rough, and -broken, and you would never think of looking for the likeness of a cross -in the wild, bleak desolation of ice-bound, snow-filled mountain chasms. -Distance, however, obliterates the rocks and roughness and smooths the -rugged features of the mountain side, and the great white cross of snow -stands out in bold relief, as though formed of carved and polished -marble. It is a pretty picture, and one that the imagination and -sentiment of man have almost rendered sacred.”</p> - -<p>We are now approaching Tennessee Pass, and our engines are working hard -as they climb the steep ascent. Our progress is slow, but so much the -better, as it gives us an opportunity to contemplate and enjoy the -indescribable beauty of this famous mountain scenery. We<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a>{173}</span> reach the pass -shortly after four o’clock, at an altitude of 10,418 feet, the highest -point on the main line of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. Here we -again cross the Great Continental Divide and enter the Atlantic slope. -Mr. Hooper calls our attention to a tiny stream of water flowing near -the track, remarking as he does so, “That is the headwaters of the -Arkansas River. We follow it for a number of miles and it will be -interesting to notice it gradually increasing in size and volume as we -proceed.” Our course is slightly downward and our rate of speed -increases. We soon reach Leadville, where we halt for half an hour. The -time is insufficient to allow us to visit the town, but we get out and -look around. A train of freight cars is standing on a sidetrack a short -distance away, loaded with ore, and the “boys” are told to help -themselves. A number avail themselves of the opportunity of procuring -Leadville “specimens” for souvenirs. The pieces carried away, I imagine, -contain but very little of the precious metal, for I believe, judging -from the appearance, that the “specimens” are being obtained from a -train load of railroad ballast. I tell Brothers Sparks and Matthews and -some of the rest my convictions, but they call me a “tenderfoot” and say -I “don’t know a good thing when I see it.” Maybe I don’t, but I have a -chunk of that stuff in my pocket that I will take home and exhibit to my -friends as a specimen of Leadville gold quartz, and if they know no more -about the material than I do they will believe it. If it is but a stone, -I will prize it as a souvenir from the most noted mining camp of the -West.</p> - -<p>Leadville first became famous in 1859 as the richest gold-mining camp in -Colorado, and was known as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a>{174}</span> “California Gulch.” Five million dollars in -gold dust were washed from the ground of this gulch the first five years -after its discovery, then for fourteen years it lay almost dormant, -until in 1878 rich deposits of silver were discovered. At that time the -place took a new lease of life, was renamed Leadville, and has been a -booming city ever since. It now has a population of 15,000 inhabitants -and is the county seat of Lake County. Leadville has an elevation of -10,200 feet, enjoying the highest altitude of any city of its size in -North America, if not in the world. It lies amid some of the grandest -and most magnificent scenery to be found anywhere, and is surrounded by -towering, snow-capped mountain peaks, whose glistening summits almost -pierce the sky. We find the atmosphere cool and bracing, but so -exceedingly rare that a brisk walk or short run will make you pant for -breath. I found this out when I ran to the sidetrack for a piece of -“ballast.”</p> - -<p>Our half hour is up and Conductor Newman and Manager Wyman are shouting -“All aboard!” We scramble on, and at 7.40 P. M. Eastern (5.40 P. M. -Mountain) time our train pulls out and we leave in our rear an -interesting, picturesque, and famous town. At Malta, five miles from -Leadville, we lay on a sidetrack ten minutes waiting for a train we meet -at this point. Leaving Malta, we pass through a fertile valley, through -which flows the Arkansas River, that we notice is rapidly growing larger -and more turbulent. We are still running parallel with the Colorado -Midland Railroad, which for miles is within fifty feet of the Denver and -Rio Grande. We notice a severe storm raging on a mountain not far away, -and it seems to be snowing hard at the summit.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a>{175}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing174_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing174_sml.jpg" width="316" height="450" alt="Image not available: WALTER W. TERRY, OF THE COMMITTEE." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">WALTER W. TERRY, OF THE COMMITTEE.</span> -</div> - -<p>As we pass Buena Vista, 25 miles west of Salida, the setting sun is -shining upon the snow-crowned summits of the collegiate group of -mountain peaks, Harvard, Yale, and Princeton, and many are the -exclamations of pleasure and delight at the beauty and grandeur of the -sight. These three peaks, each over 14,000 feet in height, are a part of -the Sawatch Range of the Rocky Mountains. With their cloud-veiled crests -wreathed in perpetual snow, those majestic, rugged giants are ever -subjects of interest and pleasure to tourists; but this evening the -setting sun has transformed their crowns of glistening snow into -dazzling diamonds, and the veil of fleecy clouds that hang about their -summits into a gorgeous canopy of purple, silver, and gold. It is a -scene of transcendent loveliness and grandeur. No wonder our people are -in ecstasies of delight. Mrs. Dougherty claps her hands, and Mrs. -Matthews exclaims, “Jimmie, look!” Jimmie, Waddie, Oscar, and the -Colonel suspend their interesting game of euchre and turn their -attention for a moment to the mountains and the clouds. Mrs. Horner has -such an expression of intense rapture in her face that Sam, thinking she -is about to have a fit, pours a glass of ice water down her back. Mrs. -Mattson says she believes she has an artist’s soul, for a sight like -this makes her nerves tingle and her mouth water, and the Doctor, -standing near, is explaining to an interested circle the philosophy of -sunshine, clouds, and colors in their relation to towering, snow-crowned -peaks. Suddenly mountain views are obstructed and the light of day is -almost excluded by massive walls of rock that encompass us. We have -plunged into Brown’s Cañon, a mighty chasm in the mountain, between -whose towering cliffs there is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a>{176}</span> just room enough for the Arkansas River -and the railroad. For many, many years the river held undisputed sway -and rushed unaccompanied and alone through this rocky, desolate gorge, -till then the railroad came. The nerve and daring of the men who brought -it were equal to the task. They followed the foaming river into this -wild ravine and fearlessly built their tracks upon its spray-bathed -banks; and now as train and river rush headlong together through this -narrow, dark defile, the snort of the locomotive and rumble of the train -mingles with the roar and gurgle of the tumultuous torrent.</p> - -<p>We emerge from the cañon as suddenly as we entered it, and the broad, -fertile valley of the Arkansas greets our vision. It is a pleasant -change. Still following the river, we traverse the valley until at 7.55, -as daylight is fading and it is growing dusk, our train comes to a stop -in Salida. We are met at the station by Superintendent R. M. Ridgway, -Trainmaster G. H. Barnes, and Chief Dispatcher W. Rech, of the Denver -and Rio Grande Railroad, who give us a cordial welcome and kindly inform -us that arrangements have been made to give us a trip to-morrow over the -narrow-gauge road to Marshall Pass and return. Escorted by Mr. Hooper -and Conductor Newman, a number of us start out to see the town.</p> - -<p>Salida is a quiet, clean, orderly, picturesque little mountain town of -about 3500 inhabitants. It is situated on the Arkansas River, with an -elevation of 7050 feet. We accept an invitation to visit the fine -parlors of the Salida Club and are royally treated by the members -present. Our bosom friend and life preserver, Tom McDonald, is along, -and proves to be quite an expert<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a>{177}</span> with the billiard cue, giving his -opponent, Dr. Mattson, a hard hustle in the game they play. A party of -our ladies get on our trail and overtake us at the club. They present -the bachelor brothers of the party each with a miniature souvenir spoon, -but give no explanation why this is done. The inference is that it is -but an act of sisterly good-fellowship that needs no interpretation. -Following the presentation of the spoons the ladies entertain us for -half an hour with excellent singing and music on the piano. As it draws -near midnight we return to our train and turn in. Some of the “boys,” it -is noticed, are not with us when we reach the train, and to them I will -have to ascribe another line of “unwritten history.”</p> - -<h3>TUESDAY, JUNE 1st.</h3> - -<p>Everybody is up bright and early this morning, in anticipation of the -promised trip up the mountains to Marshall Pass. After breakfast we -board a special train on the Denver and Rio Grande Narrow-Gauge -Railroad, and at 8.12 o’clock start on a novel and interesting ride of -25 miles over a road that is a marvel of engineering ingenuity and -skill. It requires two engines to make the laborious ascent, which in -many places is 211 feet to the mile. Our engines are No. 175, manned by -Engineer Sam Roney and Fireman W. Brewster; helper engine No. 400, -Engineer W. D. Yates, Fireman M. M. Smith. Conductor M. Guerin has -charge of the train, and the brakemen are Tom Kelley and F. Duncan.</p> - -<p>Five miles from Salida we reach Poncha Junction, and here the winding -and climbing commences in earnest.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a>{178}</span> The weather since we started has -become unfavorable; clouds obscure the sun and hide the summits of the -surrounding peaks. It has commenced to rain, but the rain lasts only for -a little while. As we ascend the clouds become lighter, and finally we -see the sun and the sky. Looking down, the clouds and mist hide the -valleys from our sight—we are above the clouds and rain; looking up, we -behold the brightest, bluest sky we have ever seen; and still our course -is upward. Our engines snort and cough and puff as they slowly climb and -wind the spiral pathway that leads to the wind-swept summit.</p> - -<p>As we near the top we have a magnificent unobstructed view of grand, -majestic mountain scenery. Near by looms up mighty Mt. Ouray, an extinct -volcano, down whose rugged sides, ages ago, the molten lava flowed; -fire-scarred and grim he stands, a silent, frowning sentinel guarding -the mountain pass. His companion, Mt. Shaveno, is near, his towering -summit being crowned with eternal snow. Mounts Ouray and Shaveno were -named in honor of the famous Ute Indian chiefs, and are everlasting -monuments to the memory of a once powerful tribe.</p> - -<p>Far in the distance, many miles to the south, can be seen, mingling with -the sky and clouds, the gleaming peaks of the Sangre de Cristo -Mountains, the grandest range of the Sierras. All this range of vision, -from Ouray to Sangre de Cristo, is filled with picturesque valleys, -timbered hills, mountain cañons, towering peaks, and glistening snow. -While we are feasting our eyes upon this grandeur, suddenly it is shut -out from view, for we have entered a dismal snow shed. The train stops -and our journey is ended. We get out of the train,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a>{179}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing178a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing178a_sml.jpg" width="314" height="241" alt="Image not available: COLONEL AND MRS. MITCHELL AT MARSHALL PASS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">COLONEL AND MRS. MITCHELL AT MARSHALL PASS.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing178b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing178b_sml.jpg" width="304" height="188" alt="Image not available: THE “COMMITTEE” AT MARSHALL PASS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE “COMMITTEE” AT MARSHALL PASS.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and looking around, we see a door that leads from the shed, which we -pass through, and find snowdrifts six feet deep and the wind blowing a -gale.</p> - -<p>I see Brother Restein snap his kodak at Colonel and Mrs. Mitchell as -they bravely face the wintry blast; the committee is lined up and he -also snaps at them. Steps lead to a lofty tower and a number of us -ascend. Some start and turn back; the exertion makes your heart beat -like a trip hammer, cuts your wind, and makes you dizzy. We who reach -the top do not tarry long; the view is magnificent, but the wind is -cold. Overcoats and wraps were brought along and they are needed; the -thermometer registered eleven last night, and now it stands at -thirty-three. It is a bleak, barren, wind-swept place, and yet it is -healthy.</p> - -<p>A family has been living here for five years. The husband and father is -employed on the road and the mother has charge of the station. She has -never been absent from the place, she says, since they took up their -residence here. The oldest child was an infant when they came, and two -have been born since. They are fine, healthy children, and have never -been sick. A doctor has never visited them, she says, because one has -never been needed. We are ready to leave before the train is ready to -take us; a short visit to a place like this is sufficient. Several of -the “boys” amuse themselves by snowballing one another and washing with -snow the faces of some of the “girls.”</p> - -<p>Marshall Pass is 10,852 feet above the level of the sea, and is situated -upon a point of the Great Continental Divide—on the ridge pole, as it -were, between the Atlantic and Pacific slopes. Within the dingy snow -shed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a>{180}</span> where our train is standing we notice water slowly trickling down -the bank into the ditch along the track; it makes a tiny stream, just -large enough to flow, and we can see that it is running in each -direction. A number of us place our fingers upon the dividing line, thus -literally touching a point of the very comb of the great water shed -between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.</p> - -<p>Our return is made with more speed than our ascent, but in a very -careful manner; helper engine 400 is detached and sent ahead. The -descent is made by gravity, the air brakes being used to keep the train -under control. Engineer Roney deserves great credit for the careful -manner in which he handles the train. A stop of five minutes is made at -Mear’s Junction, where we make the acquaintance of Station Agent Smith, -who, along with his duties as station agent and telegraph operator, is -an artist of merit; a number of pictures of mountain scenery that he has -painted adorn the walls of the station rooms.</p> - -<p>When we get back to Salida and to our train it is 2.05 P. M. Eastern -(12.05 P. M. Mountain) time. We find our friend McDonald looking for us, -with an abundant lunch prepared, which we heartily appreciate and -thoroughly enjoy. We are scheduled to leave here at one o’clock, and as -it is nearing that time, we bid adieu to the good people of Salida who -have shown us such a royal time, and at one o’clock, sharp, we steam -away from the pretty little town, bound for Colorado Springs, 142 miles -nearer home.</p> - -<p>Leaving Salida we have engine 509, in charge of Engineer John Carr and -Fireman R. Wilmonger. Our conductor is J. E. Duey, a member of Arkansas -Valley Division No. 36, of Pueblo, Col. Brother Duey enjoys<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_181" id="page_181"></a>{181}</span> the -notoriety of being a cousin to the late Jesse James, the famous bandit -and train robber. The brakemen are S. G. Carlisle and William Shoemaker. -Charlie Hooper is still with us, and at present is busily engaged in -distributing fine photographic pictures of scenes along the picturesque -Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. Mr. Hooper’s kindness and generosity are -greatly appreciated, and the pictures will be highly prized as valuable -souvenirs of our trip. In addition to Mr. Hooper we have with us as -guests Brothers W. Newman and Frank Smith, of Division 44, and Harry -Hart, of Division 36. A short stop is made at Parkdale, 46 miles from -Salida, where we meet Rev. John Brunton, who is invited to accompany us -to Pueblo. Mr. Brunton, who is an old engineer, retired from active -service, is First Division Chaplain, and has charge of the employés’ -reading room in Pueblo. He is an entertaining old gentleman; says he is -employed to fight the devil, who is always sneaking around after -railroad men. Brother Houston says, “A man like that is needed on the -Schuylkill Division.” No one replies to this insinuation, except Brother -Reagan, who merely says, “Sure.”</p> - -<p>Soon after leaving Parkdale we enter the Grand Cañon of the Arkansas, -which is 8 miles in length and the crowning wonder of all the marvelous -sights we have yet beheld; a mighty pathway, right through the heart of -the Rocky Mountains, hewn by Nature through inaccessible towering -mountain walls. Through this narrow gorge, whose perpendicular walls -rise to the height of over 2000 feet, the crowded, pent-up waters of the -Arkansas River rush and roar and foam. There is scarcely space for both -railroad and river, but with an<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a>{182}</span> audacity that knows no shrinking the -intrepid engineers entered the walled-up, darksome cañon, and, following -the intricate winding of the surging stream, laid their tracks of steel -along its foam-flecked bank. Beyond a doubt it is the most daring feat -of railroad engineering ever performed. When half way through the awful -Royal Gorge is reached, here the river holds despotic, undisputed sway -for a distance of 100 feet. There is no bank to lay the tracks upon; -from wall to wall the river surges, leaps, and roars. From out the water -those mighty walls, built by Nature’s hand, run right straight up, 2600 -feet in the air. Ingenuity and nerve solves the problem; a bridge is -built parallel with the river’s course, one side resting upon a granite -ledge, hewn in the side of the cliff, the other side suspended from rods -attached to the overhanging wall of the opposite cliff. Over this -construction the trains securely pass, while underneath the torrent -rushes on.</p> - -<p>Before reaching the bridge our train stops, and as many as wish get out -and walk over, in order to obtain a good view of the awe-inspiring -grandeur of the Royal Gorge. It is truly a wonderful sight, and one we -will never forget. We do not tarry long to contemplate the scenery, for -a mean, commonplace shower of rain is falling, and we hurry to the train -to avoid getting wet.</p> - -<p>Issuing from the cañon, we enter a broad and fertile valley, through -which flows the ever-present Arkansas River, and in a short time pass -through Cañon City, a town of considerable importance, having a -population of 3000, and the county seat of Fremont County. The State -penitentiary is located here, and near by are mineral springs of great -value, making it a favorite resort<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a>{183}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing182_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing182_sml.jpg" width="367" height="540" alt="Image not available: THE ROYAL GORGE AND HANGING BRIDGE, GRAND CAÑON OF THE -ARKANSAS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE ROYAL GORGE AND HANGING BRIDGE, GRAND CAÑON OF THE -ARKANSAS.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">for those in quest of retirement or health. We didn’t stop. The sight of -the broad, unfettered freedom of the fertile Arkansas Valley, with its -hundreds of acres of fine orchards and miles of magnificent grazing -land, is a pleasure and relief after so much cramped and rocky glory, -and gloomy, walled-up grandeur.</p> - -<p>Pueblo is reached at 6.25 P. M. Eastern (4.25 P. M. Mountain) time, and -a stop of ten minutes is made for the purpose of changing engines. We -have not time to take in the city, but we disembark and take a look -about the depot, which is called Union Station, being the joint property -of five different roads and used by them all, namely, the Denver and Rio -Grande, Santa Fé, Missouri Pacific, Rock Island, and Union Pacific, -Denver and Gulf. The building is composed of red sandstone, a handsome -structure, and is commodious and convenient. Pueblo, though situated in -a valley or basin surrounded on three sides by distant mountain ranges, -enjoys an elevation of 4668 feet. It has a population of 40,000 -inhabitants, is the centre of extensive mining industries and immense -railroad traffic. Because of its great, ever-smoking smelters, and -glowing furnaces and foundries, Pueblo is often called the “Pittsburgh -of the West.” The Arkansas River flows through the heart of the city, -but is not navigable, and its sloping banks are neatly walled to prevent -overflow in time of freshet. Bidding good-bye to our old new-found -friend, Rev. Brunton, and waving adieu to the 509 and the gallant men in -her cab who brought us safely through such scenes of weird, bewildering, -perilous grandeur, we start on our way again with engine 534, in charge -of Engineer Henry Hinman and Fireman George Courtly. Conductor Duey and -Brakemen<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a>{184}</span> Carlisle and Shoemaker go with us to Colorado Springs.</p> - -<p>After leaving Pueblo we pass through an extensive oil district, where -many wells are in operation, and we are told the yield is very heavy. We -arrive in Colorado Springs at 8.20 P. M. Eastern (6.20 P. M. Mountain) -time, and escorted by Brothers Newman, Hart, Smith, and Mr. Hooper, we -start out to see the town. Colorado Springs is a model town. It is -quiet, clean, and dry; in fact, it is <i>very dry</i>, being entirely and -teetotally temperance. But this is a commendable trait; we find no -fault, and are all impressed with the morality and good order which -prevail. It is a healthy place; the houses are not crowded together. The -population is 12,000; the town has an elevation of 5982 feet, and covers -an area of four square miles. It is much resorted to by invalids, and -thousands, we are told, are yearly benefited by taking advantage of its -exhilarating atmosphere, favorable climatic conditions, and the pleasure -and enjoyment derived from interesting and beautiful natural -environments.</p> - -<p>Soon after starting out we encounter Brother D. F. McPherson, secretary -and treasurer of Holy Cross Division 252, of Leadville, who joins us in -our rambles. After giving the quiet little city a pretty thorough -inspection, we are grouped upon a corner discussing where we shall go -next. “We have shown you the most cleanly and orderly town in the State -of Colorado,” remarks Mr. Hooper, “and now I would like to show you just -the reverse; we will take the next car and slip over to Oldtown.” In two -minutes the car comes, and getting aboard, a ride of two miles brings us -to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_185" id="page_185"></a>{185}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing184_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing184_sml.jpg" width="531" height="354" alt="Image not available: ASCENT OF PIKE’S PEAK BY MANITOU AND PIKE’S PEAK RAILROAD -(COG WHEEL)." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ASCENT OF PIKE’S PEAK BY MANITOU AND PIKE’S PEAK RAILROAD -(COG WHEEL).</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">neighboring town, where it seems every third door is a saloon and -gambling resort. Wherever we go there is turmoil and excitement. We see -no outbreaks of strife, but in these crowded gambling rooms we visit, -the swarthy miner and reckless stockman jostle one another in their -eagerness to reach the tempting roulette wheel or alluring faro table. -We can see they are excited, although they are calm, but it is the -calmness of suppressed emotion, and we are careful as we move among them -not to tread upon their toes; not that we are afraid to tramp their toes -if we want to, but we don’t want to; we didn’t come out West to make -trouble, so we are always careful what we do, if we are not so careful -where we go.</p> - -<p>Getting enough of Oldtown, we board a car and are soon back in sedate -Colorado Springs and seek our train, that is sidetracked for occupancy -near the station. I size up the crowd as they file in and find some are -missing; they have dropped out of the ranks and escaped us, and—more -“unwritten history.” It is near midnight, all is dark and silent, and we -quietly seek our berths.</p> - -<h3>WEDNESDAY, JUNE 2d.</h3> - -<p>All are up about the usual time this morning, and after breakfast -Manager Wyman announces that those who wish to make the ascent of Pike’s -Peak will take the 8.30 train on the Colorado Springs and Manitou Branch -for Manitou, six miles away, where the Manitou and Pike’s Peak railway -station is located. The 8.30 train starts with about half of our party -on board. It is cloudy and we are afraid the weather will be unfavorable -for the trip. When we arrive at the station in Manitou we can<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_186" id="page_186"></a>{186}</span> see that -the great mountain is enveloped in fog and mist. We hesitate about going -up, but the station agent receives a telephone message from the summit, -saying the weather up there is clear, and the most of us decide to go. -And when at 9.40 we start, I notice the occupants of the car and find -the following members of our party aboard: Mr. and Mrs. Wyman, Mr. and -Mrs. Maxwell, Mr. and Mrs. Layfield, Mr. and Mrs. Horner, Mr. and Mrs. -Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs. Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Dougherty, Mr. and Mrs. -Climenson, Mr. and Mrs. Foulon, Mr. and Mrs. Elder, Mr. and Mrs. Reilly, -Mr. and Miss Barrett and a lady friend, Miss Emma Leibing; Mr. Reagan -and a lady friend, Miss Jennie Heaney; Mrs. Mattson, Messrs. Waddington, -Haas, Taylor, Crispen, Denniston, Moore, Williams, Sloane, Kilgore, -Restein, and myself. The car is pushed by engine No. 4, in charge of -Engineer D. M. Jones. This little locomotive is an odd-looking thing, -built expressly for this line by the Baldwin Locomotive Works, of -Philadelphia, Pa. It has four cylinders and carries 200 pounds steam -pressure. It is constructed with two cog wheels underneath its centre, -which operate in corresponding cog rails placed in the centre of the -track, and has the appearance of being a strong and safe appliance. -Engine and car are not coupled together, but the engine in the rear -pushes the car ahead of it, which gives the tourist a fine, unobstructed -view of the scenery.</p> - -<p>The grade averages almost 900 feet to the mile, which we ascend at the -rate of about five miles per hour. The road is almost nine miles in -length and we are one hour and forty-five minutes making the ascent, -having left<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_187" id="page_187"></a>{187}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing186_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing186_sml.jpg" width="524" height="354" alt="Image not available: GATEWAY TO THE GARDEN OF THE GODS, COLORADO; PIKE’S PEAK -IN THE DISTANCE." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">GATEWAY TO THE GARDEN OF THE GODS, COLORADO; PIKE’S PEAK -IN THE DISTANCE.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the station at Manitou at 9.40 and arriving at the summit at 11.25. We -thought it was a slow trip and a tedious climb, but it wasn’t when we -consider the experience of some other people in connection with this -mountain several years ago. Ambition and desire are strong impulses in -human nature, often having more influence than a sense of duty.</p> - -<p>When Major Zebulon M. Pike first sighted this mountain that bears his -name on the morning of November 13th, 1806, he had a burning desire to -give it a close inspection, and led his followers a ten days’ rugged -march before he reached its base. From this point he looked up to its -apparently inaccessible snow-crowned summit, and concluded it would be -impossible to scale its rocky, bouldered sides. Retiring from the -locality, he reported that he “had discovered a grand mountain peak, -bare of vegetation and covered with snow, but he believed that no human -being could ever ascend to its pinnacle.”</p> - -<p>When, thirteen years afterwards, on the morning of July 13th, 1819, Dr. -Edwin James and his four comrades stood and gazed upon the terribly wild -and awful grandeur of this mighty mountain peak, they faced the same -conditions that caused the intrepid Pike to turn his back upon the scene -and withdraw: perpendicular cliffs whose walls no man can climb, -enormous rocks and giant boulders impossible to remove or surmount, -great chasms that cannot be crossed or bridged, deep, wild ravines that -seem to be impenetrable. All this they saw, yet they did not hesitate, -for they were filled with a wild ambition and burning desire to -accomplish what Pike had not dared to undertake. So they started, and -after<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_188" id="page_188"></a>{188}</span> two days of perilous hardship and toil they reached the summit, -on July 14th, 1819.</p> - -<p>Their ambition was gratified, and so is ours. We did not come up for -pleasure, for there is no pleasure in it; the novelty of the thing -brought us here, and we find it novel enough. We wanted to stand on the -apex of these snow-bound, wind-swept, zero-blistered heights, 14,147 -feet above the beating billows of the sea, and see what it is like. We -are finding out; it is colder than Chestnut Hill in midwinter. The snow -is six feet deep and the wind whistles a tune as it sweeps through -Colonel Layfield’s whiskers. The sun is shining when we get out of the -car, and with the snow whirling down our backs and tears streaming from -our eyes we spend three minutes looking down upon the far-away valley -scenery and the towns of Manitou and Colorado Springs. Then we enter the -old Government signal station, which has been turned into a curio shop, -telegraph office, post office, and restaurant. We find the temperature -more congenial, and put in the time examining and purchasing novelties -which are neither valuable or cheap, but are wanted for souvenirs. We -buy postal cards at ten cents each and mail them to friends, and send -telegrams at five cents per word. Manager Wyman sends a dispatch to -Ticket Receiver Stackhouse, Philadelphia, informing him of our -whereabouts and condition, but he couldn’t tell it all. The message -didn’t tell how near Waddie was to being fired off the train at Hell -Gate because he couldn’t find his ticket, as Restein had it in his -pocket; nor how eager Sloane was to chase the badger we saw running over -the rocks above Timber Line, but the conductor wouldn’t stop the train -to let him off.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_189" id="page_189"></a>{189}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing188_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing188_sml.jpg" width="518" height="317" alt="Image not available: ON PIKE’S PEAK: ALTITUDE 14,147 FEET." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ON PIKE’S PEAK: ALTITUDE 14,147 FEET.</span> -</div> - -<p>We have got enough of Pike’s Peak and are ready to go, but the engine is -away with the snow plow and we will have to wait for its return. We have -seen all there is to be seen and have bought what souvenirs we want. My -last purchase was a tissue-paper napkin; I gave thirty cents for it, but -had a cup of coffee and a sandwich thrown in. Our engine has returned -and we go out to get in the car. The sun is hidden by a great dark -cloud, the wind blows harder than ever, and the car is locked up. A -photographer is on hand with his outfit and wants to take a picture; -somebody ought to throw him over the precipice. We are huddled about the -end of the car like a tempest-stricken flock outside a sheepfold gate, -shivering and shaking in the blast. As the picture fiend adjusts the -camera it begins to snow; in thirty seconds we are in a raging blizzard, -the instrument snaps and the car door is unlocked, but before we all get -inside many of us are covered with snow.</p> - -<p>We are in the storm until we get below Timber Line, and the force of the -wind drives the snow across the car as it sifts through the ventilators -and in around the windows, and some of us are feeling pretty groggy. I -do not like the sensation; when I speak I talk through my hat, and my -ear drums feel ready to burst. When I go up so high again I want to go -to stay; there may be such a thing as becoming acclimated.</p> - -<p>The descent is made in a careful manner, with the engine in front. We -arrive safely in Manitou at 1.40 P. M., and the party scatters. Some -return to Colorado Springs and some drive through the Garden of the -Gods. Many who did not ascend the peak have had a good time visiting -other interesting places, and tell interesting<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190" id="page_190"></a>{190}</span> stories of the -remarkable things they saw. The little burros or donkeys are in evidence -everywhere, and several of our people got their photos taken seated on -these cute little animals with the Balance Rock in the background. Some -of the timid ladies of our party, I am told, are shy of these meek -little creatures, saying they look fierce and dangerous because their -ears are so large. The only danger is in their hind feet, for they can -kick very quick and hard, injuring one another sometimes in this way -when they get to frolicking, which they often do.</p> - -<p>Brother Schuler was in one of the carriages that drove through the -“Garden of the Gods” to-day, and it is interesting to hear him relate in -his inimitable manner the many curious things to be seen. A heavy -thunder and hail storm descended upon Manitou this afternoon, with -another blizzard on the peak, and the weather has become quite cool. -Mrs. E. T. Postlewaite took dinner with us to-day as a guest of Brother -and Mrs. Springer. Our people are scattered this evening, amusing -themselves in various ways. Brothers Brown, Horner, and myself take a -stroll after dinner. We stop at the Antlers Hotel, that is well worth a -visit, being one of the finest-equipped hotels we have seen in our -travels.</p> - -<p>We were introduced to the chief of police of the city and kindly shown -the large, interesting, and gruesome collection in the Rogues’ Gallery, -pictures of some of the most noted crooks and renegades that ever -infested the West, along with weapons and tools of all descriptions that -were used in their murderous and nefarious business. One set of burglar -implements, in particular, containing one hundred and fifty-five pieces, -that had been<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_191" id="page_191"></a>{191}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing190_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing190_sml.jpg" width="318" height="524" alt="Image not available: BRIDE AND GROOM AT BALANCE ROCK, GARDEN OF THE GODS, -COLORADO." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">BRIDE AND GROOM AT BALANCE ROCK, GARDEN OF THE GODS, -COLORADO.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">captured from a suspect by the name of Jerome Markle, we find very -interesting; it is said to be the largest and most complete burglar’s -outfit ever captured. Returning to the train about 9.30, we are glad to -meet W. E. Frenaye, Esq., city editor of the Colorado Springs <i>Gazette</i>, -who has dropped in on us for a friendly chat. Mr. Frenaye was connected -with Assistant General Passenger Agent Boyd’s office at one time, and is -an old friend of Brother Maxwell. Being scheduled to leave here at 2 -o’clock A. M., we all turn in at a reasonable hour.</p> - -<h3>THURSDAY, JUNE 3d.</h3> - -<p>Getting up this morning at six o’clock, I find we are entering Denver. -We have engine 570, Engineer Wm. Jenness, Fireman W. C. Lawhead, -Conductor I. Larsen, Brakemen Cunningforth and McGinn. Soon as the train -stops, Mrs. Terry and Mrs. Shaw strike off in search of the post office, -for they are expecting letters from home. Our train is sidetracked in -the yard and Brother Terry and I walk over to the station, a short -distance away, and look around. It is pretty quiet; the great city has -not wakened up to the business of the day and the railroads haven’t -commenced their bustle and confusion. This is a large station, one of -the finest we have seen in the West; twelve railroads use it, which -diverge from here in all directions and run to all parts of the United -States. This is what a railroad time table tells us that I have just -picked up. It also tells us that Denver is considerable of a town, that -it is the county seat of Arapahoe County and the capital of the State of -Colorado. It enjoys an altitude of 5196 feet and has a population of -165,000 inhabitants.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_192" id="page_192"></a>{192}</span></p> - -<p>We return to the train and find breakfast waiting. While we are at -breakfast the ladies return from the post office; they were too early to -get letters, for the office wasn’t open, but they were loaded with -souvenirs they had procured on the way. After breakfast we are notified -to remove all stuff from our sections to the baggage car, as the cars -are to be cleaned. This is a notice that isn’t calculated to sweeten -temper. It has been served on us several times since we started from -home, and we know what an annoyance it is, but we rejoice to know this -is the last time we will suffer the inconvenience.</p> - -<p>After this task is accomplished a number of us take a 25-mile ride -around the city on the “Seeing Denver” trolley line. It is a delightful -ride, and in this way we see many interesting features of the “Queen -City of the Plains.” The car we are on is No. 111, in charge of Motorman -Ewell and Conductor F. F. Porter. Mr. H. Given accompanies the car and -points out and explains interesting localities and places. We can see -that the educational facilities of Denver are up to date. Our attention -is called to Westminster University, located on a knoll just beyond the -city limits, said to be one of the finest institutions of learning in -the State. We pass near the Louisa M. Alcott Public School, one of the -finest public buildings we have ever seen. Having reached the suburbs we -are out amongst cultivated fields, and Mr. Given, in speaking of the -fertility of Colorado soil and the abundance of their crops, called our -attention to the rich growth of the alfalfa grass in a field close at -hand. At the utterance of the word <i>alfalfa</i> a protest went up from the -party; they had had all the alfalfa they wanted in Texas, and begged Mr. -Given to give them no<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_193" id="page_193"></a>{193}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing192_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing192_sml.jpg" width="550" height="340" alt="Image not available: MANITOU SPRINGS, COLORADO." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">MANITOU SPRINGS, COLORADO.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">more. Manager Wyman explained why our people dislike the name of -alfalfa. Mr. Given said he could but acknowledge that we had just -reasons to boycott the name, and thought he could give us some -information that would increase our dislike the more. “Perhaps you do -not know,” he continues, “that there are hundreds of tons of alfalfa -leaves shipped yearly from Colorado to New York to adulterate the tea -you drink?” This is certainly news to us; it is something we did not -know, nor are we sure of it yet, notwithstanding Mr. Given’s assertion; -nevertheless it may be true.</p> - -<p>We cross the South Fork of the Platte River, that flows through the -centre of the town, from which the city’s supply of water is taken, and -are shown the Public Park, containing four hundred acres, that is kept -up by a tax on the city property owners amounting to $125,000 a year. -Our attention is directed to the towering smokestack of the Omaha and -Giant Smelter, which rises to the height of 352 feet and is said to be -the highest chimney in the world. This is one of the most extensive -smelters in America, and since its erection, a trifle over twelve years -ago, it has treated ore amounting to nearly $300,000,000. In addition to -the Omaha and Giant Smelter there are a number of other plants in active -operation. The ores treated are gold, silver, copper, and lead. The -total product of the Denver smelting industry amounts to $40,000,000 per -year.</p> - -<p>Denver is six by ten miles in extent, and I think we rode all the way -around it and part way through it. It is a city of beautiful, -substantial residences and superb public buildings, the most noticeable -being the State Capitol Building, completed in 1895 and costing -$2,550,000.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a>{194}</span></p> - -<p>The streets of this great city are not in as clean a condition as they -might be; mud in many places is ankle deep, caused, Mr. Given informs -us, by the recent heavy rains turning the dust into mud. What an awful -dusty city it must be when not muddy; we imagine an occasional heavy -shower is a great relief, for dust is a far greater evil than mud. We -would quietly suggest to the City Fathers of this great metropolis, for -the sake of the health and comfort of their citizens and the pleasure -and convenience of visitors, that they eliminate the dust from their -town by scraping up and carting to the dump the mud from the streets, -through which pedestrians are forced to wade every time it rains.</p> - -<p>Our trolley ride finished, we alight at Brown’s Palace Hotel. This -magnificent structure, covering an entire block, ten stories in height, -built of brown sandstone, interior finished in Mexican onyx, and costing -the neat little sum of $2,000,000, is the pride of Denver. Here “The H. -J. Mayham Investment Company” has its headquarters in a suite of offices -on the first floor. We are kindly received by Mr. W. H. Coombs, a -representative of the company, who loads us down with illustrated and -descriptive books and pamphlets.</p> - -<p>It is now past noon, and from here our party scatters. Mrs. Shaw desires -to visit Mrs. Edward Bicking, formerly Miss Madeline Ramsey, of West -Chester, Pa., who is living in or near Denver. We consult a directory -that gives Mr. Bicking’s address as 313 Ashland Avenue, Highlands. We -immediately take a car, and after a lengthy ride arrive at the given -address only to find they had moved to Golden, 15 miles west of Denver. -Returning to the Union Depot, we take the 3.10 train on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a>{195}</span> the Union -Pacific, Denver and Gulf Railway, and arrive in Golden after a pleasant -ride of forty-five minutes. We have no difficulty in finding the -pleasant home of Mr. Bicking, where we meet with a cordial welcome. They -persuade us to remain over night with them and we enjoy our visit very -much. Mr. Bicking operates a large paper mill, and having no competition -does a large and thriving business. Golden is a pleasant, healthy town, -having an elevation of 5655 feet. It has about 3000 population and until -1868 was the capital of Colorado. It is situated on Clear Creek, a fine -mountain stream, and near the entrance to the famous Clear Creek Cañon. -It is surrounded by towering cliffs and great mountain ranges, amongst -which it quietly nestles.</p> - -<p>Years ago Golden was a stirring mining camp, but the excitement and -bustle of the mining industry has been moved farther up the cañon, -leaving this community in comparative quiet. Last July a cloudburst -occurred in the mountains, and the flood, rushing down the cañon, swept -through the town of Golden, destroying much property and drowning -several persons. We took a walk in the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Bicking -around the town and saw many traces of the awfully destructive deluge.</p> - -<p>I learned before leaving Denver this afternoon that a trip for to-morrow -had been planned for our party, over the Union Pacific, Denver and Gulf -Railway, up Clear Creek Cañon to Silver Plume, 54 miles from Denver. The -train is due in Golden at nine o’clock. It is our purpose to meet it and -join the party. Having spent a very pleasant afternoon and evening, we -retired about ten o’clock.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_196" id="page_196"></a>{196}</span></p> - -<h3>FRIDAY, JUNE 4th.</h3> - -<p>Having enjoyed a good night’s rest, we arose about seven o’clock, and -after breakfast Mr. Bicking escorted us over his mill, which is only a -short distance from the pleasant cottage in which they reside. The time -arriving for us to start for the station, we bid adieu to our kind -friends and join our party on the train under the escort of F. M. Shaw, -traveling agent of the Union Pacific, Denver and Gulf Railway, bound for -Silver Plume, up the picturesque Clear Creek Cañon, and over the Great -Loop. We have U. P. D. & G. Ry. engine No. 7, with Engineer Si Allen at -the throttle. The train is in charge of Conductor John W. Ryan, a member -of Denver Division 44, who is an old friend of Brother Reagan’s. The two -had not met for years, and the reunion was a happy one. It was through -the efforts of Conductor Ryan that we are given this pleasant trip -to-day.</p> - -<p>Leaving Golden, we enter the wilds of Clear Creek Cañon, similar in many -respects to Eagle River Cañon, the mighty sloping hills on either side -being honeycombed with mines. In places the cañon is very narrow; the -rugged walls overhanging the tracks almost meet at the top, a thousand -feet above. The stream we follow is a shallow one, and here and there we -catch sight of a prospector wading in the water with his shovel and pan, -washing the sand he scoops up from the bottom of the creek in the hope -of finding grains of gold. A diligent prospector, we are told, realizes -in this manner from two to ten dollars per day. For 22 miles we follow -the windings of Clear Creek up through this narrow, rocky gorge, and -then the cañon terminates in an open, level<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a>{197}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing196_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing196_sml.jpg" width="300" height="494" alt="Image not available: BACHELORS AND BURROS IN THE GARDEN OF THE GODS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">BACHELORS AND BURROS IN THE GARDEN OF THE GODS.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">plateau of about one hundred acres, surrounded by seamed and rugged -mountains, grinning with prospectors’ pits and the open mouths of mines.</p> - -<p>Here is located the pretty little mining town of Idaho Springs, at an -elevation of 7543 feet. We make a stop of ten minutes and get out to -look around. We run right along the edge of the creek and several of the -boys look for gold in the sand of the shallow water, but I hear of none -being found. It is cloudy, a light rain is falling, and having reached a -pretty high altitude the wind is chilly. Leaving Idaho Springs the open -observation car is almost deserted, the closed coaches being far more -comfortable, the most of our people caring more for comfort than for -scenery. Thirteen miles from Idaho Springs we pass through Georgetown, a -mining town of considerable size. Here we commence the Great Loop -ascension; the railway winding around the mountain crosses itself at one -point, and looking down we see nearly 200 feet beneath us the track -where we had been but a short time before. Thus we climb until we reach -Silver Plume, at an elevation of 9176 feet, arriving there at 12.20 -Mountain time.</p> - -<p>Leaving the train, we visit the Victoria Tunnel and Mendota Mine. Under -the escort of the mine boss the majority of the party enter the mine, -each one bearing a lighted candle, for the tunnel is dark as a dungeon. -This tunnel is hewn from the solid rock and extends for 2000 feet -straight into the mountain side before the rich vein of silver ore is -reached. When we reach the end of the tunnel we are almost directly -under the centre of the peak, a thousand feet under the surface of the -ground. After procuring a few small pieces of ore as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_198" id="page_198"></a>{198}</span> souvenirs we -retraced our steps and were glad to get out into open daylight once -more. On our return to the train we encountered a light snow squall. We -leave Silver Plume at 2.15 o’clock for return trip, with Brothers -Maxwell, Reagan, and Agent Shaw on the cow-catcher. A donkey on the -track sees us coming, flops his left ear, switches his tail, and wisely -steps aside. We arrive safely in Denver at six o’clock and find dinner -waiting in our dining car, to which we all ably respond, feeling that in -McDonald and his worthy attachés we have valued friends. After dinner -our people scattered over the city, amusing themselves in various ways, -and not having furnished the writer with reports of their experience, he -can but note, “unwritten history.”</p> - -<p>Brother F. H. Conboy, of Division 44, has kindly made arrangements with -the managers of the Overland Park races to admit members of our party at -reduced rates, and a number talk of attending the races to-morrow should -the weather prove favorable. We are not very highly impressed with this -climate at the present time, for it is entirely too cold and damp to be -agreeable.</p> - -<h3>SATURDAY, JUNE 5th.</h3> - -<p>According to our original itinerary this is the day we should arrive in -Philadelphia, yet here we are at Denver, in the midst of as disagreeable -a spell of weather, we are told, as ever was known here. Each afternoon -since we have been here it has snowed on the mountains and rained in the -valleys; heavy wraps and overcoats are worn by our people when they -venture away from the train. “This is not a sample of Colorado weather,” -I hear Charlie<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a>{199}</span> Hooper declare, and we are all very glad it isn’t, for -the sake of the people who have to stay here; we are not going to remain -much longer, and wouldn’t be here now, only for the irrepressible -tantrums of the Rio Grande River. Our people scatter again to-day, and I -cannot tell where they went or what they saw.</p> - -<p>Mrs. Shaw and myself visited an old friend and former neighbor, David -Cannon, on his beautiful Broadway dairy ranch, six miles south of -Denver. An electric line runs within half a mile of his residence. We -were very cordially received and spent a pleasant day. We also visited -the splendid Windsor ranch, owned by Major Dubois, ex-mayor of -Leadville, and operated by Messrs. Penrose and Cannon. We met the Major -and Miss Dubois and were very kindly treated by them. The Windsor and -Broadway dairy farms comprise a fine, beautiful, level tract of land, -containing 1000 acres in a highly improved condition. It commenced to -rain again about three o’clock and we returned to the city in a cold, -beating storm. Mrs. Bicking, who was with us, remarked that in the four -years of her residence in Colorado she had, heretofore, experienced no -such weather as this.</p> - -<p>The rain had ceased when we reached our train, about five o’clock. Found -most of our company there and photo artists Stanton and Warren with -their outfit, preparing to picture the train and party. We forthwith -arrange ourselves in a group about the end of the train in a manner -according to the instructions of the artists. Mrs. Bicking is requested -to join the group and her little son, Austin, is placed upon the -platform of the car. Our dinner this evening was an interesting and -happy occasion.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a>{200}</span> Brother Reagan’s friend, Conductor John Ryan, and his -family were guests, and during the repast Mr. Ryan presented Brother -Reagan with a handsome floral tribute, representing a keystone, composed -of roses and carnations, with inscription in immortelles: “From Jack to -John, who were Boys Together.” Below the inscription, artistically -wrought with the same kind of flowers, is a representation of clasped -hands. Brothers Reagan and Ryan were boys together, grew up and learned -railroading together, but have been separated for about eighteen years. -The event was a happy one and will be long remembered by those who -participated. A few of our people attended the Overland Park races -to-day, but the weather was unfavorable for the sport. Brother Crispin -met an old schoolmate this afternoon, Mr. J. H. Harris, who is connected -with the inspection department of the Denver and Rio Grande Road. Mr. -Harris took charge of Brother Crispin and several others and showed them -a good time.</p> - -<p>We are scheduled to leave here at midnight, and conclude to remain up -till we start. There is usually an entertaining time in the smoker and -the hours pass quickly away. We start promptly at 2.01 A. M. Eastern -(12.01 A. M. Mountain) time over the Burlington and Missouri River -Railroad, known as the “Burlington Route,” with B. & M. engine 317, -Engineer W. Fuller, Fireman C. Babcock, Conductor C. W. Bronson, -Brakeman E. Q. Robie. As guests we have with us leaving Denver -Trainmaster J. F. Kenyon and Traveling Engineer C. A. Dickson. It is now -past midnight; we have said goodbye to the kind friends who remained -with us till the start, and as we leave the great city of Denver behind -us<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_201" id="page_201"></a>{201}</span> we feel both glad and sorry; glad that we are once more speeding -toward our Eastern homes, but sorry to lose sight of the matchless -Colorado scenery and part with our kind and generous Colorado friends. -The efforts made to show us a good time by the kind people of Denver and -by the railway officials of the various lines are highly appreciated by -each member of the party. Charlie Hooper will be remembered so long as -memory of the trip shall last; may his appetite never grow less nor his -shadow ever shrink.</p> - -<h3>SUNDAY, JUNE 6th.</h3> - -<p>Got up this morning about seven o’clock and found we were approaching -McCook, Neb., having crossed the line from Colorado into Nebraska during -the night at a point about 80 miles west of McCook. Conductor Bronson -and Brakeman Robie are members of Harvey Division No. 95, of McCook. -They have intimated that we may expect a reception from the members of -that division on our arrival at McCook; this information having been -given out last evening, the most of our people are up when the train -stops in McCook at ten minutes past seven, and we are met by a large -delegation of brothers of Division 95 with their wives and daughters, -who give us a cordial, happy greeting. The McCook Band is on hand and -renders delightful music, and the hour allowed us here passes quickly -away. B. & M. engine 232, in charge of Engineer J. E. Sanborn and fired -by Charlie Williams, has been selected to draw us from McCook to -Hastings, a distance of 132 miles. Engineer Sanborn is a member of -Harvey Division 95, having at one time<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_202" id="page_202"></a>{202}</span> been a conductor, and has the -232 handsomely decorated with flags and flowers in honor of the -occasion. On each side of the cab beneath the windows are the letters -“O. R. C.,” surrounded by the emblem of the order. The engine is much -admired by the members of our party, and snap-shots are taken by -Brothers Restein and Foster.</p> - -<p>Left McCook at 10.00 Eastern (9.00 Central) time. On leaving McCook time -changes from Mountain to Central, and we now run one hour behind Eastern -time. From McCook to Hastings we have with us as guests Brothers V. H. -Halliday, F. Kendler, and C. E. Pope, who are members of the -entertainment committee from Division 95, and the following ladies of -McCook: Mrs. C. W. Bronson, Mrs. V. H. Halliday, Mrs. F. Kendler, Mrs. -C. E. Pope, Mrs. Beyer, Miss Grace Sanborn, and Miss Mabel Jordon. We -have a pleasant entertainment in the combined car, during which Mrs. -Bronson and Miss Sanborn sing in a charming manner several choice -selections. Arriving in Hastings at twelve o’clock, noon, we make a halt -of five minutes to change engines, and bidding adieu to the kind friends -of McCook who gave us such a royal greeting, we continue on our way with -engine 227, Engineer H. L. Beaty, Fireman F. C. Parkerson, Conductor J. -G. Chase, Brakeman Fred. Sharpe. Our guests are Brothers M. E. Shepard, -of Claude Champion Division No. 227, of Lincoln, Neb., M. E. Crane, of -Creston Division No. 21, of Creston, Iowa, and Trainmaster E. W. Carter.</p> - -<p>At Fairmount, 43 miles from Hastings, we make a short stop to allow some -guests to get aboard; they are Brothers W. B. Morledge, J. H. Burns, of -Division 227,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a>{203}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing202a_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing202a_sml.jpg" width="316" height="238" alt="Image not available: “WHO ARE WE? WHO ARE WE? P. P. C.! COOKS, WAITERS, AND -PORTERS OF THE O. R. C.!”" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">“WHO ARE WE? WHO ARE WE? P. P. C.! COOKS, WAITERS, AND<br /> -PORTERS OF THE O. R. C.!”</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/facing202b_lg.jpg"> -<br /> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /> -<br /> -<img src="images/facing202b_sml.jpg" width="318" height="228" alt="Image not available: THE “232.” McCOOK, NEBRASKA." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE “232.” McCOOK, NEBRASKA.</span> -</div> - -<p>W. J. Robinson, of Omaha Division 126, and Chief Dispatcher C. L. Eaton. -Brother Burns is entitled to special mention, being introduced to us as -“the largest conductor on the Burlington Route. He is 6 feet 1 inch tall -and weighs 290 pounds.” “If we only had ‘Big Frank,’ of the New York -Division, with us,” says Brother Denniston, “we could beat that by 1 -inch and 10 pounds.”</p> - -<p>“While we are not able to produce our largest conductor to compare him -with yours,” spoke up Manager Wyman, “we have with us one who enjoys the -distinction of being the smallest conductor on the Pennsylvania Railroad -System, being but 5 feet 3 inches in height and weighing only 109 -pounds. I take pleasure in introducing you to Brother Charles L. -Springer.” Brother Springer took the joke good-naturedly and responds in -a pleasant manner, telling the advantage of being small; that his size -enables him to get through places with ease where large men dare not -attempt to go. We notice that Conductor Chase is a great favorite with -the ladies of our party, who are trying to rob his uniform coat of its -pretty golden buttons, that they covet for souvenirs. A stop of half an -hour is made at Lincoln, where we arrive at three o’clock. Conductor -Chase, to save his coat, procures a number of uniform buttons and -distributes them among the ladies. Division 227 adjourned meeting this -afternoon to meet us at the station on our arrival, an action very much -appreciated by our boys, and the half hour was spent in pleasant -greetings. The “boys,” the cooks, waiters, and porters, and the ladies -gave their yells in turn as the time came for us to leave, and the -effort of the ladies was loudly applauded.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_204" id="page_204"></a>{204}</span></p> - -<p>We leave Lincoln with the same engine and crew that brought us from -Hastings, and they take us to Pacific Junction, a run of 177 miles. We -feel that we are in good hands, for Conductor J. G. Chase was selected -to take charge, from Pacific Junction to Hastings, of the Mayham -Special, that on February 15th and 16th, 1897, broke the world’s record -for long-distance running, having made the run from Chicago to Denver, a -distance of 1025 miles, in 1047 minutes. Engine 227 that is now pulling -us drew the special from Lincoln to Hastings, a distance of 96 miles, in -109 minutes, a speed of about 53 miles per hour. This did not quite -reach the average rate of speed made on the trip, which was 58¾ miles -per hour. Leaving Lincoln we have with us as additional guests Brothers -W. C. McDermott and C. Kast, of Division 227, and Engineer F. B. Arnold. -We arrive in Omaha at 5.15 P. M., and within ten minutes after our -arrival we are speeding through the city on electric cars, under the -escort of Brother W. J. Robinson and Superintendent of Street Car -Service T. H. Todhunter, who has placed two fine open trolley cars at -our service and personally directs their movements, switching us from -one thoroughfare to another until almost the entire city is traversed. -It is a pleasant afternoon and we greatly enjoy the delightful ride -through this, one of the greatest cities of the West, noted for its -rapid growth, having increased from a population of 30,518 in 1880 to -140,452 in 1890, and we are told that present indications point to the -likelihood of it reaching 300,000 in time for the census of 1900.</p> - -<p>Omaha is up to date in all that pertains to the health, comfort, and -welfare of her citizens, and we are all favorably<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_205" id="page_205"></a>{205}</span> impressed with her -clean streets, pleasant homes, and fine, substantial public buildings. -Omaha has a curfew law, recently established, the beneficent effects of -which are already noticed and highly recommended. It keeps off the -streets after nine o’clock at night boys and girls under sixteen years -of age, unless accompanied by parents or guardians.</p> - -<p>We have consumed more time in doing the town of Omaha than was intended, -and consequently, when we leave at 7.05 we are thirty-five minutes late -on our schedule; but we are on a line noted for its “fast time,” and -probably the delay will be made up. A number of the boys from Creston -Division No. 21 and their ladies came up to Omaha to meet us this -afternoon, and return with us to Creston.</p> - -<p>We have the pleasure of having with us L. H. Wright, C. C. of No. 21, -Mr. and Mrs. R. McCoy, Mr. and Mrs. J. W. Smelley, Mr. and Mrs. J. C. -Felker, Mr. and Mrs. Nugent, Mr. and Miss Bradey, Mr. Donoven, Train -Dispatcher Ed. Robeson, Master Mechanic G. L. Beckwith, J. W. Fedder and -mother, Mr. and Mrs. Roberts, F. M. Price, Miss Galeger, Miss Thompson, -Miss Gaul, Miss Gaven, Miss Obine. Leaving Omaha we do not cross the -Missouri River and enter Iowa via Council Bluffs, but follow the river -south for 26 miles to Plattsmouth, where we cross the turbid stream on a -substantial bridge and enter Iowa at Pacific Junction, having traversed -the southern border of the State of Nebraska for 366 miles. We saw a -fine, level country, dotted with neat, substantial farm buildings, and -judging from the many well-filled cribs of last year’s corn, it must be -a country extremely rich in agricultural products.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_206" id="page_206"></a>{206}</span></p> - -<p>At Pacific Junction a change of engines and crews is made, and bidding -adieu to good-hearted, good-natured Captain Chase and his genial crew, -we continue on our way with C. B. & Q. engine 318, in charge of Engineer -George Goodrich and Fireman T. H. Hillis, conducted by M. Farrell, whose -brakemen are T. A. McDonald and T. Munson, who will take us to Creston, -a run of 86 miles. Thirty-five miles from Pacific Junction we make a -short stop at Redwood, and receive additional guests in the persons of -Division Superintendent J. H. Duggan, Mr. Frank Gillman, J. B. Kirsh, -chief engineer of Creston Division No. 112, B. of L. E., and Conductor -T. G. Snair. We have now about thirty-five guests aboard and our train -is pretty well filled up. It seems to be an off Sunday with many of the -good people along the line, and they have turned out to show us a good -time, and they can never guess how much their efforts are appreciated. -It is 10.15 P. M. when we arrive in Creston, and as we approach the -station Superintendent Duggan, who has been watching the time, informs -us that our train has covered the last 36 miles in forty-two minutes. A -large bonfire is burning on an open lot near the station, and the -juvenile band of Creston is playing a stirring piece when our train -comes to a halt. There is a large crowd on hand to greet us, and the -forty-five minutes we remain among them passes quickly and pleasantly -away. We bid good-bye to our many new-found friends, and at 11.02 P. M. -leave Creston with C. B. & Q. engine 232, with Engineer J. Consodine at -the throttle, and conducted by G. W. Yetts. The brakemen are W. D. -Willits and G. A. Bessey, which crew takes us to Burlington, 190 miles. -The “232” was also on the famous<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_207" id="page_207"></a>{207}</span> Mayham Special from Creston to Red -Oak, and made a record of 62½ miles per hour. Conductor Yetts had -charge of the train from Burlington to Creston.</p> - -<p>We have had a full day, and every one of the party feels that we have -been honored by the demonstrations of good-fellowship that have marked -our progress through the States of Nebraska and Iowa. We are all very -tired to-night; this is the thirtieth day of our outing; each day a -picnic and every night a circus. It is now drawing near the midnight -hour, and as we steam away from the hospitable, wide-awake little town -of Creston, with her bonfire and her band, our sincere wish is that the -sun of prosperity may ever shine upon her. The combined car has been -vacated and the refreshment corner is deserted; George H. Anderson, the -hardest-worked man in the outfit, is making up his bed, Brother Sparks’ -El Paso pup has ceased his whining and now is snoring, and Sister -Matthews’ Denver magpie for once in its life is silent. These things I -notice as I quietly leave the smoker and make my way to little No. 3, in -the “Marco.”</p> - -<h3>MONDAY, JUNE 7th.</h3> - -<p>Getting up this morning about six o’clock, I find we are in Illinois, -having crossed the Mississippi River during the night at Burlington, -where a change of engines was made. We now have C. B. & Q. engine 511, -handled by Engineer D. Sullivan and fired by J. Watson. Conductor W. L. -Boydston, a member of Galesburg Division No. 83, has charge of our -train, whose brakemen are J. M. Forsythe and T. G. White. This engine -and crew will run us to Chicago, a distance of 206 miles.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_208" id="page_208"></a>{208}</span> Illinois is a -rich agricultural State, whose well-cultivated farms and fine buildings -exhibit a high degree of prosperity and thrift. Arriving in Chicago at -8.45 our people scatter to take in the sights of the city as best suit -their individual inclinations. I have no knowledge as to where they went -or what they saw, but the inference is that everybody was busy, for it -is a physical impossibility for a person to remain still in this town; -such hustling, aggressive activity I never saw before. If you attempt to -saunter or stop to look you are the victim of a hundred bumps a minute; -you’ve got to get in the race and keep going, or climb a tree.</p> - -<p>On our arrival Mrs. S. and I were met by Mrs. Ray Melchor, Mrs. Shaw’s -sister, a resident of the city, who took charge of us, and I am glad she -assumed the responsibility, for I never felt more in need of a guardian -in my life than I did when in the heart of this mighty metropolis with -its great sky-scraping buildings and tearing cyclone of humanity. Mrs. -Melchor proved an excellent guide, and showed us more of this wonderful -town than one would think possible in the few hours allotted us, besides -giving us a delightful carriage ride along the lake front and through -Jackson and Washington Parks. We also visited Lincoln Park and saw the -famous Ferris Wheel. Mrs. Melchor returned with us to the train and -accompanied us as far as the suburban station of Englewood, where the -train was stopped to allow her to alight. We left Chicago at 5.40 P. M. -on the Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne and Chicago Line, with P. Ft. W. & C. -engine 147, Engineer Frank Higgins, Fireman Robt. Giffin, Conductor M. -J. Prindiville, Brakeman H. B. Walton, and Flagman Geo. Roberts,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_209" id="page_209"></a>{209}</span> who -take us to Ft. Wayne, 148 miles. Near Whiting, a short distance beyond -the limits of Chicago, we cross the line and enter Indiana, which also -has the appearance of being a rich agricultural State.</p> - -<p>In the evening an interesting meeting is held in the smoking car, and -presided over by Brother Geo. Brown, for the purpose of effecting a -permanent club, to be composed of the members of the Pennsylvania -Railroad conductors’ excursion party. Selecting a name leads to -considerable discussion, until Brother Denniston suggests the “Golden -Gate Club,” which is unanimously adopted. The following brothers are -elected officers of the club: President, C. E. Wyman; vice-president, L. -E. Sheppard; secretary and treasurer, W. J. Maxwell. Pullman conductors -Suter and McDonald are admitted as honorary members. The meeting, which -lasted from 8.30 to 9.20 P. M., is succeeded by the admission to the car -of a delegation of the ladies, led by Sister Reilly, who introduces an -entertaining game called “The California Pets,” or “Dead Hand,” which -consists of an outstretched sheet, around which sit as many as can -conveniently do so, with their hands beneath the sheet, and guess the -names of articles that they cannot see, which are passed from one to the -other. The game continues for some time and produces a great deal of -merriment, until an article is passed to Miss Ella that causes her to -shriek with fright. She quickly passes it to Brother Reagan, who turns -pale and shudders as though he had seen a ghost; he in turn tosses it to -Brother Williams, who is thrown into a spasm when he grasps the nasty -thing, and flings it into Brother McCarty’s lap, who clutches it, drops -it, exclaims “Hell!” jumps up, all at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_210" id="page_210"></a>{210}</span> same time, and makes a break -for the door. It was only a kid glove that Mrs. Reilly had filled with -sand and soaked in ice water, that felt to the touch like the cold and -clammy hand of a corpse.</p> - -<p>The rear car “Orchis” was christened “Hogan’s Alley” in the early stages -of our trip, because of the spirit of fun and frolic that at times ran -rampant there. To-day, while Brother Houston was visiting his brother in -Chicago, who is connected with a publishing house, he procured a number -of large cards with “Hogan’s Alley” printed upon them, and hung them up -through the car. There were also two swinging from the rear platform -when the train left Chicago, much to the amusement of the people who -were gathered at the station to see us off.</p> - -<p>We reach Ft. Wayne at 9.30 P. M., and after a delay of a few minutes -changing engines, start on our way again with P. Ft. W. & C. engine 272, -Engineer M. Shea, Fireman E. Blanchard, Conductor T. J. Kanaga, Brakemen -W. B. Kelley and A. C. Kyle, who take us to Crestline, Ohio, 132 miles. -At the little station of Dixon, 20 miles east of Ft. Wayne, we cross the -State line and enter Ohio. We are drawing nearer home and all feel very -glad, although it will be like the breaking up of a large and happy -family for us to separate. We expect to reach Pittsburgh early in the -morning, and Brothers Haas and Schuler are saying goodbye, for Haas -leaves us at Allegheny City and Schuler at Pittsburgh. It is approaching -midnight, and as we skim across the State of Ohio we retire to our -little beds and are soon fast asleep, lulled into repose by the soothing -hum and motion of the train, that we have learned to regard as a great -help to pleasant dreams and unbroken slumber.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_211" id="page_211"></a>{211}</span></p> - -<h3>TUESDAY, JUNE 8th.</h3> - -<p>Getting up this morning about 5.30, I find we are approaching Allegheny -City. It is a wet, foggy morning, and the Ohio River, in sight of which -we are running, is high and muddy. We had changed engines at Crestline -during the night, and now have P. Ft. W. & C. engine No. 288, Engineer -Geo. Hood, Fireman F. Eberly, Conductor E. W. Davis, Brakemen E. W. -Simpson and J. W. Syms, who take us into Pittsburgh, a run of 188 miles. -When we stop in Allegheny City at six o’clock quite a number are astir -to bid Brother Haas adieu; five minutes later we stop in Pittsburgh and -part with Brother Schuler. Brother Sloane also leaves us here, as he has -business to transact in the “Smoky City” before coming East.</p> - -<p>Time changes here from Central to Eastern, one hour later, and we leave -Pittsburgh at 7.17 A. M. with P. R. R. engine 1631, with Engineer M. -Daily and Fireman S. K. Dobson in the cab. Our conductor is N. E. Garber -and Brakemen W. J. Maxwell and Frank Dick. This crew runs us to Altoona, -a distance of 117 miles, where we arrive at 10.35. After a delay of five -minutes in changing engines we start on our way again with P. R. R. -engine 646, in charge of Engineer H. Funk and Fireman E. Wilson. J. R. -Bockus is conducting the train, whose brakemen are G. H. Free and G. W. -Miller. Our train stops at Tyrone, 15 miles east of Altoona, to allow -Brother and Mrs. Matthews to get off. They are obliged to leave us at -this point, for they had left their little four-year-old daughter here -in the care of relatives until their return and are longing to clasp -Baby Ellie<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_212" id="page_212"></a>{212}</span> once more in their arms. This is a busy day with the members -of the party and an interesting one for the porters. In a neat and -characteristic speech Brother Reagan, in behalf of the lady occupants of -the “Marco,” presents Dennis Jackson with a substantial token of their -appreciation of his kindness and courtesy toward them during the trip, -they always finding him ready and willing to obey and oblige; and Dennis -deserves their generous remembrance. Brother Sheppard, in behalf of the -occupants of the “Milton,” holds up Dick Pettus in the same manner and -for the same purpose, and presents him with a generous token of their -regard. Physically Dick is a giant, and all who know him will testify -that he is as good-natured and kind as he is big and strong. The -residents of “Hogan’s Alley” (“Orchis”) surround George Custis, while -Brother Denniston in an eloquent speech tells him how good he is and how -his goodness has been appreciated by the restive but good-natured and -harmless inhabitants of this noted quarter, who desire to show their -regard for the service he has rendered them by giving him a token of -remembrance. George is worthy of their generosity, and quietly accepts -the donation, saying to me as I pass him, “I often thought of the -warning you gave me the day we started out.”</p> - -<p>Arriving in Harrisburg at 1.37 P. M. we bid adieu to Brothers Gilliland, -Haefner, Smith, and their wives, also Brother McCarty, who leave us at -this point, and changing engines for the last time we proceed on our way -again with P. R. R. engine 296, Engineer H. B. Humphreys, Fireman J. -Mahan, Conductor Dan. Harvey, Brakeman George Wilson. We are met in -Harrisburg by a delegation from Philadelphia, composed of the -following<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_213" id="page_213"></a>{213}</span>-named gentlemen, who constitute a Welcome Home Committee: -Brothers John Mooney, Budd Roulon, George Stultz, Tony Hughes, Frank -Vandyke, of West Philadelphia Division 162; J. Kelly and J. P. Anchor, -of Camden Division 170; Trainmaster J. Thompson, Operator C. Devinney, -and Baggagemaster Ed. Lynch, who accompany us to Philadelphia. They -present each one of our party with a very pretty little white badge -bearing the initials “O. R. C.” in monogram and the inscription “Welcome -Home” in golden letters. We have a number of badges and innumerable -souvenirs that have been gathered on the trip, but not one among them -all will be more highly prized than the little “Welcome Home” badge that -bears silent but eloquent testimony to the deep fraternal sentiment that -rejoices in our safe arrival home.</p> - -<p>We have had a most wonderful trip; have traveled almost 9000 miles; no -one has been injured and no one seriously sick. A prairie dog and a jack -rabbit, so far as we can learn, are the only victims that met death by -our train. We have crossed eighteen States and Territories, encountered -no train robbers, experienced no wrecks, not having on a car during all -our journey so much as a hot box or flat wheel.</p> - -<p>Brother Layfield has been diligently obtaining punch cuts of the -conductors he has met <i>en route</i>, and succeeded in obtaining -forty-eight. Had they all been equipped with their punch that he met he -would have had many more. The Colonel has been collecting punch marks -for several years, and now has three hundred and fifty, nicely arranged -in an album designed for the purpose. We are pained to learn that -Brother Charles Larue, of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_214" id="page_214"></a>{214}</span> Camden Division 170, was thrown off his train -yesterday and badly injured. He is a member of the Welcome Home -Committee and had intended to accompany the rest to Harrisburg to meet -us.</p> - -<p>Our train rolls into Broad Street Station, Philadelphia, at 4.20 P. M., -and we are warmly greeted by many friends who have gathered in the great -train shed to welcome us home. From the station we are escorted to Odd -Fellows’ Temple, Broad and Cherry Streets, by the Reception Committee, -representing West Philadelphia Division 162, Quaker City Division 204, -Camden Division 170, and Wilmington Division 224. Brother J. H. Mooney, -of Division 162, calls the meeting to order and in a neat little speech -welcomes the excursionists home. Fine music is rendered by the -Philharmonic Quintet, composed of the following gentlemen: Ed. Volmer, -J. R. Whitely, Sol. Ecksteine, Chas. Genso, and Robert Crawford, ably -led by Prof. Jo. Allen. Brothers Wyman, Sheppard, and Shaw are called -upon for remarks relative to the trip, and they respond with short -addresses. Songs and recitations are given by J. Conlin and Mr. and Mrs. -Hughes, and the guests then repair to the basement banquet hall, where -refreshments are served. At 7.30 the meeting adjourns, adieus are -spoken, and we go to our several homes, feeling that we have had an -extraordinary picnic in the thirty-two days of our outing, and hoping to -meet again at the first anniversary of the Golden Gate Club one year -hence.</p> - -<p class="c">[THE END.]</p> - -<p><a name="transcrib" id="transcrib"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="padding:2%;border:3px dotted gray;"> -<tr><th align="center">Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:</th></tr> -<tr><td align="center">give satistion=> give satisfaction {pg 3}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">in these mighty hils=> in these mighty hills {pg 122}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Hank claims=> Hanks claims {pg 151}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">will ever forget out trip=> will ever forget our trip {pg 158}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">laughter could be hear=> laughter could be heard {pg 169}</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Nine Thousand Miles On A Pullman Train, by -Milton Shaw - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NINE THOUSAND MILES *** - -***** This file should be named 51341-h.htm or 51341-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/3/4/51341/ - -Produced by Charlene Taylor, Chuck Greif, profwebs and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net -(This file was produced from images generously made -available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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