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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of How I Found Livingstone, by Henry M. Stanley
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: How I Found Livingstone
+
+Author: Henry M. Stanley
+
+Release Date: February, 2004 [EBook #5157]
+Last Updated: August 18, 2012
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Geoffrey Cowling
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE
+
+Travels, Adventures and Discoveries in Central Africa including four
+months residence with Dr. Livingstone
+
+By Sir Henry M. Stanley, G.C.B.
+
+Abridged
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.-- INTRODUCTORY. MY INSTRUCTIONS TO FIND AND RELIEVE
+LIVINGSTONE.
+
+
+On the sixteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord one thousand
+eight hundred and sixty-nine, I was in Madrid, fresh from the carnage
+at Valencia. At 10 A.M. Jacopo, at No.-- Calle de la Cruz, handed me a
+telegram: It read, "Come to Paris on important business." The telegram
+was from Mr. James Gordon Bennett, jun., the young manager of the 'New
+York Herald.'
+
+Down came my pictures from the walls of my apartments on the second
+floor; into my trunks went my books and souvenirs, my clothes were
+hastily collected, some half washed, some from the clothes-line half
+dry, and after a couple of hours of hasty hard work my portmanteaus were
+strapped up and labelled "Paris."
+
+At 3 P.M. I was on my way, and being obliged to stop at Bayonne a
+few hours, did not arrive at Paris until the following night. I went
+straight to the 'Grand Hotel,' and knocked at the door of Mr. Bennett's
+room.
+
+"Come in," I heard a voice say. Entering, I found Mr. Bennett in bed.
+"Who are you?" he asked.
+
+"My name is Stanley," I answered.
+
+"Ah, yes! sit down; I have important business on hand for you."
+
+After throwing over his shoulders his robe-de-chambre Mr. Bennett asked,
+"Where do you think Livingstone is?"
+
+"I really do not know, sir."
+
+"Do you think he is alive?"
+
+"He may be, and he may not be," I answered.
+
+"Well, I think he is alive, and that he can be found, and I am going to
+send you to find him."
+
+"What!" said I, "do you really think I can find Dr Livingstone? Do you
+mean me to go to Central Africa?"
+
+"Yes; I mean that you shall go, and find him wherever you may hear that
+he is, and to get what news you can of him, and perhaps"--delivering
+himself thoughtfully and deliberately--"the old man may be in
+want:--take enough with you to help him should he require it. Of
+course you will act according to your own plans, and do what you think
+best--BUT FIND LIVINGSTONE!"
+
+Said I, wondering at the cool order of sending one to Central Africa to
+search for a man whom I, in common with almost all other men, believed
+to be dead, "Have you considered seriously the great expense you are
+likely, to incur on account of this little journey?"
+
+"What will it cost?" he asked abruptly.
+
+"Burton and Speke's journey to Central Africa cost between £3,000 and
+£5,000, and I fear it cannot be done under £2,500."
+
+"Well, I will tell you what you will do. Draw a thousand pounds now; and
+when you have gone through that, draw another thousand, and when that
+is spent, draw another thousand, and when you have finished that, draw
+another thousand, and so on; but, FIND LIVINGSTONE."
+
+Surprised but not confused at the order--for I knew that Mr. Bennett
+when once he had made up his mind was not easily drawn aside from his
+purpose--I yet thought, seeing it was such a gigantic scheme, that he
+had not quite considered in his own mind the pros and cons of the case;
+I said, "I have heard that should your father die you would sell the
+'Herald' and retire from business."
+
+"Whoever told you that is wrong, for there is not, money enough in New
+York city to buy the 'New York Herald.' My father has made it a
+great paper, but I mean to make it greater. I mean that it shall be a
+newspaper in the true sense of the word. I mean that it shall publish
+whatever news will be interesting to the world at no matter what cost."
+
+"After that," said I, "I have nothing more to say. Do you mean me to go
+straight on to Africa to search for Dr. Livingstone?"
+
+"No! I wish you to go to the inauguration of the Suez Canal first,
+and then proceed up the Nile. I hear Baker is about starting for Upper
+Egypt. Find out what you can about his expedition, and as you go up
+describe as well as possible whatever is interesting for tourists; and
+then write up a guide--a practical one--for Lower Egypt; tell us about
+whatever is worth seeing and how to see it.
+
+"Then you might as well go to Jerusalem; I hear Captain Warren is making
+some interesting discoveries there. Then visit Constantinople, and find
+out about that trouble between the Khedive and the Sultan.
+
+"Then--let me see--you might as well visit the Crimea and those old
+battle-grounds, Then go across the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea; I hear
+there is a Russian expedition bound for Khiva. From thence you may get
+through Persia to India; you could write an interesting letter from
+Persepolis.
+
+"Bagdad will be close on your way to India; suppose you go there, and
+write up something about the Euphrates Valley Railway. Then, when you
+have come to India, you can go after Livingstone. Probably you will hear
+by that time that Livingstone is on his way to Zanzibar; but if not,
+go into the interior and find him. If alive, get what news of his
+discoveries you can; and if you find he is dead, bring all possible
+proofs of his being dead. That is all. Good-night, and God be with you."
+
+"Good-night, Sir," I said, "what it is in the power of human nature to
+do I will do; and on such an errand as I go upon, God will be with me."
+
+I lodged with young Edward King, who is making such a name in New
+England. He was just the man who would have delighted to tell the
+journal he was engaged upon what young Mr. Bennett was doing, and what
+errand I was bound upon.
+
+I should have liked to exchange opinions with him upon the probable
+results of my journey, but I dared not do so. Though oppressed with the
+great task before me, I had to appear as if only going to be present at
+the Suez Canal. Young King followed me to the express train bound
+for Marseilles, and at the station we parted: he to go and read the
+newspapers at Bowles' Reading-room--I to Central Africa and--who knows?
+
+There is no need to recapitulate what I did before going to Central
+Africa.
+
+I went up the Nile and saw Mr. Higginbotham, chief engineer in Baker's
+Expedition, at Philae, and was the means of preventing a duel between
+him and a mad young Frenchman, who wanted to fight Mr. Higginbotham with
+pistols, because that gentleman resented the idea of being taken for an
+Egyptian, through wearing a fez cap. I had a talk with Capt. Warren at
+Jerusalem, and descended one of the pits with a sergeant of engineers
+to see the marks of the Tyrian workmen on the foundation-stones of the
+Temple of Solomon. I visited the mosques of Stamboul with the Minister
+Resident of the United States, and the American Consul-General. I
+travelled over the Crimean battle-grounds with Kinglake's glorious books
+for reference in my hand. I dined with the widow of General Liprandi
+at Odessa. I saw the Arabian traveller Palgrave at Trebizond, and Baron
+Nicolay, the Civil Governor of the Caucasus, at Tiflis. I lived with the
+Russian Ambassador while at Teheran, and wherever I went through
+Persia I received the most hospitable welcome from the gentlemen of
+the Indo-European Telegraph Company; and following the examples of many
+illustrious men, I wrote my name upon one of the Persepolitan monuments.
+In the month of August, 1870, I arrived in India.
+
+On the 12th of October I sailed on the barque 'Polly' from Bombay
+to Mauritius. As the 'Polly' was a slow sailer, the passage lasted
+thirty-seven days. On board this barque was a William Lawrence
+Farquhar--hailing from Leith, Scotland--in the capacity of first-mate.
+He was an excellent navigator, and thinking he might be useful to me,
+I employed him; his pay to begin from the date we should leave Zanzibar
+for Bagamoyo. As there was no opportunity of getting, to Zanzibar
+direct, I took ship to Seychelles. Three or four days after arriving
+at Mahe, one of the Seychelles group, I was fortunate enough to get
+a passage for myself, William Lawrence Farquhar, and an Arab boy from
+Jerusalem, who was to act as interpreter--on board an American whaling
+vessel, bound for Zanzibar; at which port we arrived on the 6th of
+January, 1871.
+
+I have skimmed over my travels thus far, because these do not concern
+the reader. They led over many lands, but this book is only a narrative
+of my search after Livingstone, the great African traveller. It is
+an Icarian flight of journalism, I confess; some even have called it
+Quixotic; but this is a word I can now refute, as will be seen before
+the reader arrives at the "Finis."
+
+I have used the word "soldiers" in this book. The armed escort a
+traveller engages to accompany him into East Africa is composed of free
+black men, natives of Zanzibar, or freed slaves from the interior,
+who call themselves "askari," an Indian name which, translated, means
+"soldiers." They are armed and equipped like soldiers, though they
+engage themselves also as servants; but it would be more pretentious in
+me to call them servants, than to use the word "soldiers;" and as I
+have been more in the habit of calling them soldiers than "my
+watuma"--servants--this habit has proved too much to be overcome. I have
+therefore allowed the word "soldiers" to appear, accompanied, however,
+with this apology.
+
+But it must be remembered that I am writing a narrative of my own
+adventures and travels, and that until I meet Livingstone, I presume
+the greatest interest is attached to myself, my marches, my troubles,
+my thoughts, and my impressions. Yet though I may sometimes write, "my
+expedition," or "my caravan," it by no means follows that I arrogate to
+myself this right. For it must be distinctly understood that it is the
+"'New York Herald' Expedition," and that I am only charged with its
+command by Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the 'New York
+Herald,' as a salaried employ of that gentleman.
+
+One thing more; I have adopted the narrative form of relating the story
+of the search, on account of the greater interest it appears to possess
+over the diary form, and I think that in this manner I avoid the
+great fault of repetition for which some travellers have been severely
+criticised.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II. -- ZANZIBAR.
+
+On the morning of the 6th January, 1871, we were sailing through the
+channel that separates the fruitful island of Zanzibar from Africa. The
+high lands of the continent loomed like a lengthening shadow in the grey
+of dawn. The island lay on our left, distant but a mile, coming out
+of its shroud of foggy folds bit by bit as the day advanced, until it
+finally rose clearly into view, as fair in appearance as the fairest of
+the gems of creation. It appeared low, but not flat; there were gentle
+elevations cropping hither and yon above the languid but graceful tops
+of the cocoa-trees that lined the margin of the island, and there were
+depressions visible at agreeable intervals, to indicate where a cool
+gloom might be found by those who sought relief from a hot sun. With
+the exception of the thin line of sand, over which the sap-green water
+rolled itself with a constant murmur and moan, the island seemed buried
+under one deep stratum of verdure.
+
+The noble bosom of the strait bore several dhows speeding in and out of
+the bay of Zanzibar with bellying sails. Towards the south, above the
+sea line of the horizon, there appeared the naked masts of several
+large ships, and to the east of these a dense mass of white, flat-topped
+houses. This was Zanzibar, the capital of the island;--which soon
+resolved itself into a pretty large and compact city, with all the
+characteristics of Arab architecture. Above some of the largest houses
+lining the bay front of the city streamed the blood-red banner of the
+Sultan, Seyd Burghash, and the flags of the American, English, North
+German Confederation, and French Consulates. In the harbor were thirteen
+large ships, four Zanzibar men-of-war, one English man-of-war--the
+'Nymphe,' two American, one French, one Portuguese, two English, and
+two German merchantmen, besides numerous dhows hailing from Johanna
+and Mayotte of the Comoro Islands, dhows from Muscat and Cutch--traders
+between India, the Persian Gulf, and Zanzibar.
+
+It was with the spirit of true hospitality and courtesy that Capt.
+Francis R. Webb, United States Consul, (formerly of the United States
+Navy), received me. Had this gentleman not rendered me such needful
+service, I must have condescended to take board and lodging at a house
+known as "Charley's," called after the proprietor, a Frenchman, who has
+won considerable local notoriety for harboring penniless itinerants, and
+manifesting a kindly spirit always, though hidden under such a rugged
+front; or I should have been obliged to pitch my double-clothed American
+drill tent on the sandbeach of this tropical island, which was by no
+means a desirable thing.
+
+But Capt. Webb's opportune proposal to make his commodious and
+comfortable house my own; to enjoy myself, with the request that I would
+call for whatever I might require, obviated all unpleasant alternatives.
+
+One day's life at Zanzibar made me thoroughly conscious of my ignorance
+respecting African people and things in general. I imagined I had read
+Burton and Speke through, fairly well, and that consequently I had
+penetrated the meaning, the full importance and grandeur, of the work I
+was about to be engaged upon. But my estimates, for instance, based upon
+book information, were simply ridiculous, fanciful images of African
+attractions were soon dissipated, anticipated pleasures vanished, and
+all crude ideas began to resolve themselves into shape.
+
+I strolled through the city. My general impressions are of crooked,
+narrow lanes, white-washed houses, mortar-plastered streets, in the
+clean quarter;--of seeing alcoves on each side, with deep recesses,
+with a fore-ground of red-turbaned Banyans, and a back-ground of flimsy
+cottons, prints, calicoes, domestics and what not; or of floors crowded
+with ivory tusks; or of dark corners with a pile of unginned and loose
+cotton; or of stores of crockery, nails, cheap Brummagem ware, tools,
+&c., in what I call the Banyan quarter;--of streets smelling very
+strong--in fact, exceedingly, malodorous, with steaming yellow and
+black bodies, and woolly heads, sitting at the doors of miserable huts,
+chatting, laughing, bargaining, scolding, with a compound smell of
+hides, tar, filth, and vegetable refuse, in the negro quarter;--of
+streets lined with tall, solid-looking houses, flat roofed, of great
+carved doors with large brass knockers, with baabs sitting cross-legged
+watching the dark entrance to their masters' houses; of a shallow
+sea-inlet, with some dhows, canoes, boats, an odd steam-tub or two,
+leaning over on their sides in a sea of mud which the tide has just left
+behind it; of a place called "M'nazi-Moya," "One Cocoa-tree," whither
+Europeans wend on evenings with most languid steps, to inhale the sweet
+air that glides over the sea, while the day is dying and the red sun is
+sinking westward; of a few graves of dead sailors, who paid the forfeit
+of their lives upon arrival in this land; of a tall house wherein lives
+Dr. Tozer, "Missionary Bishop of Central Africa," and his school of
+little Africans; and of many other things, which got together into such
+a tangle, that I had to go to sleep, lest I should never be able to
+separate the moving images, the Arab from the African; the African from
+the Banyan; the Banyan from the Hindi; the Hindi from the European, &c.
+
+Zanzibar is the Bagdad, the Ispahan, the Stamboul, if you like, of East
+Africa. It is the great mart which invites the ivory traders from the
+African interior. To this market come the gum-copal, the hides, the
+orchilla weed, the timber, and the black slaves from Africa. Bagdad had
+great silk bazaars, Zanzibar has her ivory bazaars; Bagdad once traded
+in jewels, Zanzibar trades in gum-copal; Stamboul imported Circassian
+and Georgian slaves; Zanzibar imports black beauties from Uhiyow,
+Ugindo, Ugogo, Unyamwezi and Galla.
+
+The same mode of commerce obtains here as in all Mohammedan
+countries--nay, the mode was in vogue long before Moses was born. The
+Arab never changes. He brought the custom of his forefathers with him
+when he came to live on this island. He is as much of an Arab here as
+at Muscat or Bagdad; wherever he goes to live he carries with him his
+harem, his religion, his long robe, his shirt, his slippers, and his
+dagger. If he penetrates Africa, not all the ridicule of the negroes can
+make him change his modes of life. Yet the land has not become Oriental;
+the Arab has not been able to change the atmosphere. The land is
+semi-African in aspect; the city is but semi-Arabian.
+
+To a new-comer into Africa, the Muscat Arabs of Zanzibar are studies.
+There is a certain empressement about them which we must admire. They
+are mostly all travellers. There are but few of them who have not been
+in many dangerous positions, as they penetrated Central Africa in search
+of the precious ivory; and their various experiences have given
+their features a certain unmistakable air of-self-reliance, or of
+self-sufficiency; there is a calm, resolute, defiant, independent air
+about them, which wins unconsciously one's respect. The stories that
+some of these men could tell, I have often thought, would fill many a
+book of thrilling adventures.
+
+For the half-castes I have great contempt. They are neither black nor
+white, neither good nor bad, neither to be admired nor hated. They are
+all things, at all times; they are always fawning on the great Arabs,
+and always cruel to those unfortunates brought under their yoke. If I
+saw a miserable, half-starved negro, I was always sure to be told
+he belonged to a half-caste. Cringing and hypocritical, cowardly and
+debased, treacherous and mean, I have always found him. He seems to be
+for ever ready to fall down and worship a rich Arab, but is relentless
+to a poor black slave. When he swears most, you may be sure he lies
+most, and yet this is the breed which is multiplied most at Zanzibar.
+
+The Banyan is a born trader, the beau-ideal of a sharp money-making man.
+Money flows to his pockets as naturally as water down a steep. No pang
+of conscience will prevent him from cheating his fellow man. He excels
+a Jew, and his only rival in a market is a Parsee; an Arab is a babe to
+him. It is worth money to see him labor with all his energy, soul and
+body, to get advantage by the smallest fraction of a coin over a native.
+Possibly the native has a tusk, and it may weigh a couple of frasilahs,
+but, though the scales indicate the weight, and the native declares
+solemnly that it must be more than two frasilahs, yet our Banyan will
+asseverate and vow that the native knows nothing whatever about it, and
+that the scales are wrong; he musters up courage to lift it--it is a
+mere song, not much more than a frasilah. "Come," he will say, "close,
+man, take the money and go thy way. Art thou mad?" If the native
+hesitates, he will scream in a fury; he pushes him about, spurns the
+ivory with contemptuous indifference,--never was such ado about nothing;
+but though he tells the astounded native to be up and going, he never
+intends the ivory shall leave his shop.
+
+The Banyans exercise, of all other classes, most influence on the trade
+of Central Africa. With the exception of a very few rich Arabs, almost
+all other traders are subject to the pains and penalties which usury
+imposes. A trader desirous to make a journey into the interior, whether
+for slaves or ivory, gum-copal, or orchilla weed, proposes to a Banyan
+to advance him $5,000, at 50, 60, or 70 per cent. interest. The Banyan
+is safe enough not to lose, whether the speculation the trader is
+engaged upon pays or not. An experienced trader seldom loses, or if
+he has been unfortunate, through no deed of his own, he does not lose
+credit; with the help of the Banyan, he is easily set on his feet again.
+
+We will suppose, for the sake of illustrating how trade with the
+interior is managed, that the Arab conveys by his caravan $5,000's worth
+of goods into the interior. At Unyanyembe the goods are worth $10,000;
+at Ujiji, they are worth $15,000: they have trebled in price. Five doti,
+or $7.50, will purchase a slave in the markets of Ujiji that will fetch
+in Zanzibar $30. Ordinary menslaves may be purchased for $6 which would
+sell for $25 on the coast. We will say he purchases slaves to the full
+extent of his means--after deducting $1,500 expenses of carriage to
+Ujiji and back--viz. $3,500, the slaves--464 in number, at $7-50 per
+head--would realize $13,920 at Zanzibar! Again, let us illustrate trade
+in ivory. A merchant takes $5,000 to Ujiji, and after deducting $1,500
+for expenses to Ujiji, and back to Zanzibar, has still remaining $3,500
+in cloth and beads, with which he purchases ivory. At Ujiji ivory is
+bought at $20 the frasilah, or 35 lbs., by which he is enabled with
+$3,500 to collect 175 frasilahs, which, if good ivory, is worth about
+$60 per frasilah at Zanzibar. The merchant thus finds that he has
+realized $10,500 net profit! Arab traders have often done better than
+this, but they almost always have come back with an enormous margin of
+profit.
+
+The next people to the Banyans in power in Zanzibar are the Mohammedan
+Hindis. Really it has been a debateable subject in my mind whether the
+Hindis are not as wickedly determined to cheat in trade as the Banyans.
+But, if I have conceded the palm to the latter, it has been done very
+reluctantly. This tribe of Indians can produce scores of unconscionable
+rascals where they can show but one honest merchant. One of the
+honestest among men, white or black, red or yellow, is a Mohammedan
+Hindi called Tarya Topan. Among the Europeans at Zanzibar, he has become
+a proverb for honesty, and strict business integrity. He is enormously
+wealthy, owns several ships and dhows, and is a prominent man in the
+councils of Seyd Burghash. Tarya has many children, two or three of
+whom are grown-up sons, whom he has reared up even as he is himself. But
+Tarya is but a representative of an exceedingly small minority.
+
+The Arabs, the Banyans, and the Mohammedan Hindis, represent the higher
+and the middle classes. These classes own the estates, the ships, and
+the trade. To these classes bow the half-caste and the negro.
+
+The next most important people who go to make up the mixed population of
+this island are the negroes. They consist of the aborigines, Wasawahili,
+Somalis, Comorines, Wanyamwezi, and a host of tribal representatives of
+Inner Africa.
+
+To a white stranger about penetrating Africa, it is a most interesting
+walk through the negro quarters of the Wanyamwezi and the Wasawahili.
+For here he begins to learn the necessity of admitting that negroes are
+men, like himself, though of a different colour; that they have passions
+and prejudices, likes and dislikes, sympathies and antipathies, tastes
+and feelings, in common with all human nature. The sooner he perceives
+this fact, and adapts himself accordingly, the easier will be his
+journey among the several races of the interior. The more plastic his
+nature, the more prosperous will be his travels.
+
+Though I had lived some time among the negroes of our Southern States,
+my education was Northern, and I had met in the United States black men
+whom I was proud to call friends. I was thus prepared to admit any black
+man, possessing the attributes of true manhood or any good qualities, to
+my friendship, even to a brotherhood with myself; and to respect him
+for such, as much as if he were of my own colour and race. Neither his
+colour, nor any peculiarities of physiognomy should debar him with me
+from any rights he could fairly claim as a man. "Have these men--these
+black savages from pagan Africa," I asked myself, "the qualities
+which make man loveable among his fellows? Can these men--these
+barbarians--appreciate kindness or feel resentment like myself?" was my
+mental question as I travelled through their quarters and observed their
+actions. Need I say, that I was much comforted in observing that they
+were as ready to be influenced by passions, by loves and hates, as I
+was myself; that the keenest observation failed to detect any great
+difference between their nature and my own?
+
+The negroes of the island probably number two-thirds of the entire
+population. They compose the working-class, whether enslaved or free.
+Those enslaved perform the work required on the plantations, the
+estates, and gardens of the landed proprietors, or perform the work of
+carriers, whether in the country or in the city. Outside the city they
+may be seen carrying huge loads on their heads, as happy as possible,
+not because they are kindly treated or that their work is light, but
+because it is their nature to be gay and light-hearted, because they,
+have conceived neither joys nor hopes which may not be gratified at
+will, nor cherished any ambition beyond their reach, and therefore have
+not been baffled in their hopes nor known disappointment.
+
+Within the city, negro carriers may be heard at all hours, in couples,
+engaged in the transportation of clove-bags, boxes of merchandise, &c.,
+from store to "godown" and from "go-down" to the beach, singing a kind
+of monotone chant for the encouragement of each other, and for the
+guiding of their pace as they shuffle through the streets with
+bare feet. You may recognise these men readily, before long, as old
+acquaintances, by the consistency with which they sing the tunes they
+have adopted. Several times during a day have I heard the same couple
+pass beneath the windows of the Consulate, delivering themselves of
+the same invariable tune and words. Some might possibly deem the songs
+foolish and silly, but they had a certain attraction for me, and I
+considered that they were as useful as anything else for the purposes
+they were intended.
+
+The town of Zanzibar, situate on the south-western shore of the island,
+contains a population of nearly one hundred thousand inhabitants; that
+of the island altogether I would estimate at not more than two hundred
+thousand inhabitants, including all races.
+
+The greatest number of foreign vessels trading with this port are
+American, principally from New York and Salem. After the American come
+the German, then come the French and English. They arrive loaded with
+American sheeting, brandy, gunpowder, muskets, beads, English cottons,
+brass-wire, china-ware, and other notions, and depart with ivory,
+gum-copal, cloves, hides, cowries, sesamum, pepper, and cocoa-nut oil.
+
+The value of the exports from this port is estimated at $3,000,000, and
+the imports from all countries at $3,500,000.
+
+The Europeans and Americans residing in the town of Zanzibar are either
+Government officials, independent merchants, or agents for a few great
+mercantile houses in Europe and America.
+
+The climate of Zanzibar is not the most agreeable in the world. I have
+heard Americans and Europeans condemn it most heartily. I have also seen
+nearly one-half of the white colony laid up in one day from sickness. A
+noxious malaria is exhaled from the shallow inlet of Malagash, and the
+undrained filth, the garbage, offal, dead mollusks, dead pariah dogs,
+dead cats, all species of carrion, remains of men and beasts unburied,
+assist to make Zanzibar a most unhealthy city; and considering that it
+it ought to be most healthy, nature having pointed out to man the means,
+and having assisted him so far, it is most wonderful that the ruling
+prince does not obey the dictates of reason.
+
+The bay of Zanzibar is in the form of a crescent, and on the
+south-western horn of it is built the city. On the east Zanzibar is
+bounded almost entirely by the Malagash Lagoon, an inlet of the sea. It
+penetrates to at least two hundred and fifty yards of the sea behind
+or south of Shangani Point. Were these two hundred and fifty yards cut
+through by a ten foot ditch, and the inlet deepened slightly, Zanzibar
+would become an island of itself, and what wonders would it not effect
+as to health and salubrity! I have never heard this suggestion made, but
+it struck me that the foreign consuls resident at Zanzibar might suggest
+this work to the Sultan, and so get the credit of having made it as
+healthy a place to live in as any near the equator. But apropos of this,
+I remember what Capt. Webb, the American Consul, told me on my first
+arrival, when I expressed to him my wonder at the apathy and inertness
+of men born with the indomitable energy which characterises Europeans
+and Americans, of men imbued with the progressive and stirring instincts
+of the white people, who yet allow themselves to dwindle into pallid
+phantoms of their kind, into hypochondriacal invalids, into hopeless
+believers in the deadliness of the climate, with hardly a trace of that
+daring and invincible spirit which rules the world.
+
+"Oh," said Capt. Webb, "it is all very well for you to talk about energy
+and all that kind of thing, but I assure you that a residence of four or
+five years on this island, among such people as are here, would make you
+feel that it was a hopeless task to resist the influence of the example
+by which the most energetic spirits are subdued, and to which they must
+submit in time, sooner or later. We were all terribly energetic when we
+first came here, and struggled bravely to make things go on as we were
+accustomed to have them at home, but we have found that we were
+knocking our heads against granite walls to no purpose whatever. These
+fellows--the Arabs, the Banyans, and the Hindis--you can't make them go
+faster by ever so much scolding and praying, and in a very short time
+you see the folly of fighting against the unconquerable. Be patient, and
+don't fret, that is my advice, or you won't live long here."
+
+There were three or four intensely busy men, though, at Zanzibar, who
+were out at all hours of the day. I know one, an American; I fancy
+I hear the quick pit-pat of his feet on the pavement beneath the
+Consulate, his cheery voice ringing the salutation, "Yambo!" to every
+one he met; and he had lived at Zanzibar twelve years.
+
+I know another, one of the sturdiest of Scotchmen, a most
+pleasant-mannered and unaffected man, sincere in whatever he did
+or said, who has lived at Zanzibar several years, subject to the
+infructuosities of the business he has been engaged in, as well as to
+the calor and ennui of the climate, who yet presents as formidable a
+front as ever to the apathetic native of Zanzibar. No man can charge
+Capt. H. C. Fraser, formerly of the Indian Navy, with being apathetic.
+
+I might with ease give evidence of the industry of others, but they are
+all my friends, and they are all good. The American, English, German,
+and French residents have ever treated me with a courtesy and kindness
+I am not disposed to forget. Taken as a body, it would be hard to find
+a more generous or hospitable colony of white men in any part of the
+world.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III. -- ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION.
+
+
+I was totally ignorant of the interior, and it was difficult at first to
+know, what I needed, in order to take an Expedition into Central Africa.
+Time was precious, also, and much of it could not be devoted to inquiry
+and investigation. In a case like this, it would have been a godsend, I
+thought, had either of the three gentlemen, Captains Burton, Speke,
+or Grant, given some information on these points; had they devoted a
+chapter upon, "How to get ready an Expedition for Central Africa." The
+purpose of this chapter, then, is to relate how I set about it, that
+other travellers coming after me may have the benefit of my experience.
+
+These are some of the questions I asked myself, as I tossed on my bed at
+night:--
+
+"How much money is required?"
+
+"How many pagazis, or carriers?
+
+"How many soldiers?"
+
+"How much cloth?"
+
+"How many beads?"
+
+"How much wire?"
+
+"What kinds of cloth are required for the different tribes?"
+
+Ever so many questions to myself brought me no clearer the exact point
+I wished to arrive at. I scribbled over scores of sheets of paper, made
+estimates, drew out lists of material, calculated the cost of keeping
+one hundred men for one year, at so many yards of different kinds of
+cloth, etc. I studied Burton, Speke, and Grant in vain. A good deal of
+geographical, ethnological, and other information appertaining to the
+study of Inner Africa was obtainable, but information respecting the
+organization of an expedition requisite before proceeding to Africa, was
+not in any book. The Europeans at Zanzibar knew as little as possible
+about this particular point. There was not one white man at Zanzibar who
+could tell how many dotis a day a force of one hundred men required to
+buy food for one day on the road. Neither, indeed, was it their business
+to know. But what should I do at all, at all? This was a grand question.
+
+I decided it were best to hunt up an Arab merchant who had been engaged
+in the ivory trade, or who was fresh from the interior.
+
+Sheikh Hashid was a man of note and of wealth in Zanzibar. He had
+himself despatched several caravans into the interior, and was
+necessarily acquainted with several prominent traders who came to
+his house to gossip about their adventures and gains. He was also the
+proprietor of the large house Capt. Webb occupied; besides, he lived
+across the narrow street which separated his house from the Consulate.
+Of all men Sheikh Hashid was the man to be consulted, and he was
+accordingly invited to visit me at the Consulate.
+
+From the grey-bearded and venerable-looking Sheikh, I elicited more
+information about African currency, the mode of procedure, the quantity
+and quality of stuffs I required, than I had obtained from three months'
+study of books upon Central Africa; and from other Arab merchants
+to whom the ancient Sheikh introduced me, I received most valuable
+suggestions and hints, which enabled me at last to organize an
+Expedition.
+
+The reader must bear in mind that a traveller requires only that which
+is sufficient for travel and exploration that a superfluity of goods or
+means will prove as fatal to him as poverty of supplies. It is on
+this question of quality and quantity that the traveller has first to
+exercise his judgment and discretion.
+
+My informants gave me to understand that for one hundred men, 10 doti,
+or 40 yards of cloth per diem, would suffice for food. The proper course
+to pursue, I found, was to purchase 2,000 doti of American sheeting,
+1,000 doti of Kaniki, and 650 doti of the coloured cloths, such as
+Barsati, a great favourite in Unyamwezi; Sohari, taken in Ugogo;
+Ismahili, Taujiri, Joho, Shash, Rehani, Jamdani or Kunguru-Cutch, blue
+and pink. These were deemed amply sufficient for the subsistence of
+one hundred men for twelve months. Two years at this rate would require
+4,000 doti = 16,000 yards of American sheeting; 2,000 doti = 8,000 yards
+of Kaniki; 1,300 doti = 5,200 yards of mixed coloured cloths. This was
+definite and valuable information to me, and excepting the lack of some
+suggestions as to the quality of the sheeting, Kaniki, and coloured
+cloths, I had obtained all I desired upon this point.
+
+Second in importance to the amount of cloth required was the quantity
+and quality of the beads necessary. Beads, I was told, took the place
+of cloth currency among some tribes of the interior. One tribe preferred
+white to black beads, brown to yellow, red to green, green to white, and
+so on. Thus, in Unyamwezi, red (sami-sami) beads would readily be taken,
+where all other kinds would be refused; black (bubu) beads, though
+currency in Ugogo, were positively worthless with all other tribes; the
+egg (sungomazzi) beads, though valuable in Ujiji and Uguhha, would be
+refused in all other countries; the white (Merikani) beads though
+good in Ufipa, and some parts of Usagara and Ugogo, would certainly be
+despised in Useguhha and Ukonongo. Such being the case, I was obliged to
+study closely, and calculate the probable stay of an expedition in the
+several countries, so as to be sure to provide a sufficiency of each
+kind, and guard against any great overplus. Burton and Speke, for
+instance, were obliged to throw away as worthless several hundred fundo
+of beads.
+
+For example, supposing the several nations of Europe had each its own
+currency, without the means of exchange, and supposing a man was about
+to travel through Europe on foot, before starting he would be apt to
+calculate how many days it would take him to travel through France; how
+many through Prussia, Austria, and Russia, then to reckon the expense
+he would be likely to incur per day. If the expense be set down at a
+napoleon per day, and his journey through France would occupy thirty
+days, the sum required forgoing and returning might be properly set down
+at sixty napoleons, in which case, napoleons not being current money
+in Prussia, Austria, or Russia, it would be utterly useless for him
+to burden himself with the weight of a couple of thousand napoleons in
+gold.
+
+My anxiety on this point was most excruciating. Over and over I studied
+the hard names and measures, conned again and again the polysyllables;
+hoping to be able to arrive some time at an intelligible definition
+of the terms. I revolved in my mind the words Mukunguru, Ghulabio,
+Sungomazzi, Kadunduguru, Mutunda, Samisami, Bubu, Merikani, Hafde,
+Lunghio-Rega, and Lakhio, until I was fairly beside myself. Finally,
+however, I came to the conclusion that if I reckoned my requirements at
+fifty khete, or five fundo per day, for two years, and if I purchased
+only eleven varieties, I might consider myself safe enough. The purchase
+was accordingly made, and twenty-two sacks of the best species were
+packed and brought to Capt. Webb's house, ready for transportation to
+Bagamoyo.
+
+After the beads came the wire question. I discovered, after considerable
+trouble, that Nos. 5 and 6--almost of the thickness of telegraph
+wire--were considered the best numbers for trading purposes. While beads
+stand for copper coins in Africa, cloth measures for silver; wire
+is reckoned as gold in the countries beyond the Tan-ga-ni-ka.* Ten
+frasilah, or 350 lbs., of brass-wire, my Arab adviser thought, would be
+ample.
+
+
+     * It will be seen that I differ from Capt. Burton in the
+     spelling of this word, as I deem the letter "y" superfluous.
+
+
+Having purchased the cloth, the beads, and the wire, it was with no
+little pride that I surveyed the comely bales and packages lying piled
+up, row above row, in Capt. Webb's capacious store-room. Yet my work
+was not ended, it was but beginning; there were provisions,
+cooking-utensils, boats, rope, twine, tents, donkeys, saddles, bagging,
+canvas, tar, needles, tools, ammunition, guns, equipments, hatchets,
+medicines, bedding, presents for chiefs--in short, a thousand things not
+yet purchased. The ordeal of chaffering and haggling with steel-hearted
+Banyans, Hindis, Arabs, and half-castes was most trying. For instance, I
+purchased twenty-two donkeys at Zanzibar. $40 and $50 were asked, which
+I had to reduce to $15 or $20 by an infinite amount of argument worthy,
+I think, of a nobler cause. As was my experience with the ass-dealers so
+was it with the petty merchants; even a paper of pins was not purchased
+without a five per cent. reduction from the price demanded, involving,
+of course, a loss of much time and patience.
+
+After collecting the donkeys, I discovered there were no pack-saddles
+to be obtained in Zanzibar. Donkeys without pack-saddles were of no use
+whatever. I invented a saddle to be manufactured by myself and my white
+man Farquhar, wholly from canvas, rope, and cotton.
+
+Three or four frasilahs of cotton, and ten bolts of canvas were required
+for the saddles. A specimen saddle was made by myself in order to test
+its efficiency. A donkey was taken and saddled, and a load of 140
+lbs. was fastened to it, and though the animal--a wild creature of
+Unyamwezi--struggled and reared frantic ally, not a particle gave
+way. After this experiment, Farquhar was set to work to manufacture
+twenty-one more after the same pattern. Woollen pads were also purchased
+to protect the animals from being galled. It ought to be mentioned here,
+perhaps, that the idea of such a saddle as I manufactured, was first
+derived from the Otago saddle, in use among the transport-trains of the
+English army in Abyssinia.
+
+A man named John William Shaw--a native of London, England, lately
+third-mate of the American ship 'Nevada'--applied to me for work. Though
+his discharge from the 'Nevada' was rather suspicious, yet he possessed
+all the requirements of such a man as I needed, and was an experienced
+hand with the palm and needle, could cut canvas to fit anything, was
+a pretty good navigator, ready and willing, so far as his professions
+went.. I saw no reason to refuse his services, and he was accordingly
+engaged at $300 per annum, to rank second to William L. Farquhar.
+Farquhar was a capital navigator and excellent mathematician; was
+strong, energetic, and clever.
+
+The next thing I was engaged upon was to enlist, arm, and equip, a
+faithful escort of twenty men for the road. Johari, the chief dragoman
+of the American Consulate, informed me that he knew where certain of
+Speke's "Faithfuls" were yet to be found. The idea had struck me before,
+that if I could obtain the services of a few men acquainted with the
+ways of white men, and who could induce other good men to join the
+expedition I was organizing, I might consider myself fortunate. More
+especially had I thought of Seedy Mbarak Mombay, commonly called
+"Bombay," who though his head was "woodeny," and his hands "clumsy," was
+considered to be the "faithfulest" of the "Faithfuls."
+
+With the aid of the dragoman Johari, I secured in a few hours the
+services of Uledi (Capt. Grant's former valet), Ulimengo, Baruti,
+Ambari, Mabruki (Muinyi Mabruki--Bull-headed Mabruki, Capt. Burton's
+former unhappy valet)--five of Speke's "Faithfuls." When I asked them if
+they were willing to join another white man's expedition to Ujiji,
+they replied very readily that they were willing to join any brother
+of "Speke's." Dr. John Kirk, Her Majesty's Consul at Zanzibar, who was
+present, told them that though I was no brother of "Speke's," I spoke
+his language. This distinction mattered little to them: and I heard
+them, with great delight, declare their readiness to go anywhere with
+me, or do anything I wished.
+
+Mombay, as they called him, or Bombay, as we know him, had gone to
+Pemba, an island lying north of Zanzibar. Uledi was sure Mombay
+would jump with joy at the prospect of another expedition. Johari was
+therefore commissioned to write to him at Pemba, to inform him of the
+good fortune in store for him.
+
+On the fourth morning after the letter had been despatched, the famous
+Bombay made his appearance, followed in decent order and due rank by
+the "Faithfuls" of "Speke." I looked in vain for the "woodeny head" and
+"alligator teeth" with which his former master had endowed him. I saw
+a slender short man of fifty or thereabouts, with a grizzled head, an
+uncommonly high, narrow forehead, with a very large mouth, showing teeth
+very irregular, and wide apart. An ugly rent in the upper front row of
+Bombay's teeth was made with the clenched fist of Capt. Speke in Uganda
+when his master's patience was worn out, and prompt punishment became
+necessary. That Capt. Speke had spoiled him with kindness was
+evident, from the fact that Bombay had the audacity to stand up for a
+boxing-match with him. But these things I only found out, when, months
+afterwards, I was called upon to administer punishment to him myself.
+But, at his first appearance, I was favourably impressed with Bombay,
+though his face was rugged, his mouth large, his eyes small, and his
+nose flat.
+
+"Salaam aliekum," were the words he greeted me with. "Aliekum salaam,"
+I replied, with all the gravity I could muster. I then informed him I
+required him as captain of my soldiers to Ujiji. His reply was that he
+was ready to do whatever I told him, go wherever I liked in short, be a
+pattern to servants, and a model to soldiers. He hoped I would give him
+a uniform, and a good gun, both of which were promised.
+
+Upon inquiring for the rest of the "Faithfuls" who accompanied Speke
+into Egypt, I was told that at Zanzibar there were but six. Ferrajji,
+Maktub, Sadik, Sunguru, Manyu, Matajari, Mkata, and Almas, were dead;
+Uledi and Mtamani were in Unyanyembe; Hassan had gone to Kilwa, and
+Ferahan was supposed to be in Ujiji.
+
+Out of the six "Faithfuls," each of whom still retained his medal for
+assisting in the "Discovery of the Sources of the Nile," one,
+poor Mabruki, had met with a sad misfortune, which I feared would
+incapacitate him from active usefulness.
+
+Mabruki the "Bull-headed," owned a shamba (or a house with a garden
+attached to it), of which he was very proud. Close to him lived a
+neighbour in similar circumstances, who was a soldier of Seyd Majid,
+with whom Mabruki, who was of a quarrelsome disposition, had a feud,
+which culminated in the soldier inducing two or three of his comrades to
+assist him in punishing the malevolent Mabruki, and this was done in a
+manner that only the heart of an African could conceive. They tied
+the unfortunate fellow by his wrists to a branch of a tree, and after
+indulging their brutal appetite for revenge in torturing him, left him
+to hang in that position for two days. At the expiration of the second
+day, he was accidentally discovered in a most pitiable condition. His
+hands had swollen to an immense size, and the veins of one hand having
+been ruptured, he had lost its use. It is needless to say that, when the
+affair came to Seyd Majid's ears, the miscreants were severely punished.
+Dr. Kirk, who attended the poor fellow, succeeded in restoring one hand
+to something of a resemblance of its former shape, but the other hand is
+sadly marred, and its former usefulness gone for ever.
+
+However, I engaged Mabruki, despite his deformed hands, his ugliness and
+vanity, because he was one of Speke's "Faithfuls." For if he but wagged
+his tongue in my service, kept his eyes open, and opened his mouth at
+the proper time, I assured myself I could make him useful.
+
+Bombay, my captain of escort, succeeded in getting eighteen more free
+men to volunteer as "askari" (soldiers), men whom he knew would not
+desert, and for whom he declared himself responsible. They were an
+exceedingly fine-looking body of men, far more intelligent in appearance
+than I could ever have believed African barbarians could be. They hailed
+principally from Uhiyow, others from Unyamwezi, some came from Useguhha
+and Ugindo.
+
+Their wages were set down at $36 each man per annum, or $3 each per
+month. Each soldier was provided with a flintlock musket, powder horn,
+bullet-pouch, knife, and hatchet, besides enough powder and ball for 200
+rounds.
+
+Bombay, in consideration of his rank, and previous faithful services
+to Burton, Speke and Grant, was engaged at $80 a year, half that sum
+in advance, a good muzzle-loading rifle, besides, a pistol, knife, and
+hatchet were given to him, while the other five "Faithfuls," Ambari,
+Mabruki, Ulimengo, Baruti, and Uledi, were engaged at $40 a year, with
+proper equipments as soldiers.
+
+Having studied fairly well all the East African travellers' books
+regarding Eastern and Central Africa, my mind had conceived the
+difficulties which would present themselves during the prosecution of my
+search after Dr. Livingstone.
+
+To obviate all of these, as well as human wit could suggest, was my
+constant thought and aim.
+
+"Shall I permit myself, while looking from Ujiji over the waters of
+the Tanganika Lake to the other side, to be balked on the threshold of
+success by the insolence of a King Kannena or the caprice of a Hamed
+bin Sulayyam?" was a question I asked myself. To guard against such a
+contingency I determined to carry my own boats. "Then," I thought, "if
+I hear of Livingstone being on the Tanganika, I can launch my boat and
+proceed after him."
+
+I procured one large boat, capable of carrying twenty persons, with
+stores and goods sufficient for a cruise, from the American Consul, for
+the sum of $80, and a smaller one from another American gentleman for
+$40. The latter would hold comfortably six men, with suitable stores.
+
+I did not intend to carry the boats whole or bodily, but to strip them
+of their boards, and carry the timbers and thwarts only. As a substitute
+for the boards, I proposed to cover each boat with a double canvas skin
+well tarred. The work of stripping them and taking them to pieces fell
+to me. This little job occupied me five days.
+
+I also packed them up, for the pagazis. Each load was carefully weighed,
+and none exceeded 68 lbs. in weight. John Shaw excelled himself in the
+workmanship displayed on the canvas boats; when finished, they fitted
+their frames admirably. The canvas--six bolts of English hemp, No.
+3--was procured from Ludha Damji, who furnished it from the Sultan's
+storeroom.
+
+An insuperable obstacle to rapid transit in Africa is the want of
+carriers, and as speed was the main object of the Expedition under my
+command, my duty was to lessen this difficulty as much as possible.
+My carriers could only be engaged after arriving at Bagamoyo, on the
+mainland. I had over twenty good donkeys ready, and I thought a
+cart adapted for the footpaths of Africa might prove an advantage.
+Accordingly I had a cart constructed, eighteen inches wide and five feet
+long, supplied with two fore-wheels of a light American wagon, more for
+the purpose of conveying the narrow ammunition-boxes. I estimated that
+if a donkey could carry to Unyanyembe a load of four frasilahs, or 140
+lbs., he ought to be able to draw eight frasilahs on such a cart,
+which would be equal to the carrying capacity of four stout pagazis or
+carriers. Events will prove, how my theories were borne out by practice.
+
+When my purchases were completed, and I beheld them piled up, tier after
+tier, row upon row, here a mass of cooking-utensils, there bundles of
+rope, tents, saddles, a pile of portmanteaus and boxes, containing every
+imaginable thing, I confess I was rather abashed at my own temerity.
+Here were at least six tons of material! "How will it ever be possible,"
+I thought, "to move all this inert mass across the wilderness stretching
+between the sea, and the great lakes of Africa? Bah, cast all doubts
+away, man, and have at them! 'Sufficient for the day is the evil
+thereof,' without borrowing from the morrow."
+
+The traveller must needs make his way into the African interior after
+a fashion very different from that to which he has been accustomed in
+other countries. He requires to take with him just what a ship must have
+when about to sail on a long voyage. He must have his slop chest, his
+little store of canned dainties, and his medicines, besides which, he
+must have enough guns, powder, and ball to be able to make a series of
+good fights if necessary. He must have men to convey these miscellaneous
+articles; and as a man's maximum load does not exceed 70 lbs., to convey
+11,000 lbs. requires nearly 160 men.
+
+Europe and the Orient, even Arabia and Turkestan, have royal ways
+of travelling compared to Africa. Specie is received in all those
+countries, by which a traveller may carry his means about with him on
+his own person. Eastern and Central Africa, however, demand a necklace,
+instead of a cent; two yards of American sheeting, instead of half a
+dollar, or a florin, and a kitindi of thick brass-wire, in place of a
+gold piece.
+
+The African traveller can hire neither wagons nor camels, neither
+horses nor mules, to proceed with him into the interior. His means of
+conveyance are limited to black and naked men, who demand at least $15 a
+head for every 70 lbs. weight carried only as far as Unyanyembe.
+
+One thing amongst others my predecessors omitted to inform men bound for
+Africa, which is of importance, and that is, that no traveller should
+ever think of coming to Zanzibar with his money in any other shape than
+gold coin. Letters of credit, circular notes, and such civilized things
+I have found to be a century ahead of Zanzibar people.
+
+Twenty and twenty-five cents deducted out of every dollar I drew on
+paper is one of the unpleasant, if not unpleasantest things I have
+committed to lasting memory. For Zanzibar is a spot far removed from all
+avenues of European commerce, and coin is at a high premium. A man
+may talk and entreat, but though he may have drafts, cheques, circular
+notes, letters of credit, a carte blanche to get what he wants, out of
+every dollar must, be deducted twenty, twenty-five and thirty cents,
+so I was told, and so was my experience. What a pity there is no
+branch-bank here!
+
+I had intended to have gone into Africa incognito. But the fact that a
+white man, even an American, was about to enter Africa was soon known
+all over Zanzibar. This fact was repeated a thousand times in the
+streets, proclaimed in all shop alcoves, and at the custom-house. The
+native bazaar laid hold of it, and agitated it day and night until my
+departure. The foreigners, including the Europeans, wished to know the
+pros and cons of my coming in and going out.
+
+My answer to all questions, pertinent and impertinent, was, I am going
+to Africa. Though my card bore the words
+
+     ________________________________________
+    |                                        |
+    |            HENRY M.  STANLEY.          |
+    |                                        |
+    |                                        |
+    |  New York Herald.                      |
+    |________________________________________|
+
+very few, I believe, ever coupled the words 'New York Herald' with a
+search after "Doctor Livingstone." It was not my fault, was it?
+
+Ah, me! what hard work it is to start an expedition alone! What with
+hurrying through the baking heat of the fierce relentless sun from shop
+to shop, strengthening myself with far-reaching and enduring patience
+far the haggling contest with the livid-faced Hindi, summoning courage
+and wit to brow-beat the villainous Goanese, and match the foxy Banyan,
+talking volumes throughout the day, correcting estimates, making up
+accounts, superintending the delivery of purchased articles, measuring
+and weighing them, to see that everything was of full measure and
+weight, overseeing the white men Farquhar and Shaw, who were busy on
+donkey saddles, sails, tents, and boats for the Expedition, I felt, when
+the day was over, as though limbs and brain well deserved their rest.
+Such labours were mine unremittingly for a month.
+
+Having bartered drafts on Mr. James Gordon Bennett to the amount of
+several thousand dollars for cloth, beads, wire, donkeys, and a thousand
+necessaries, having advanced pay to the white men, and black escort
+of the Expedition, having fretted Capt. Webb and his family more than
+enough with the din of preparation, and filled his house with my goods,
+there was nothing further to do but to leave my formal adieus with the
+Europeans, and thank the Sultan and those gentlemen who had assisted me,
+before embarking for Bagamoyo.
+
+The day before my departure from Zanzibar the American Consul, having
+just habited himself in his black coat, and taking with him an extra
+black hat, in order to be in state apparel, proceeded with me to the
+Sultan's palace. The prince had been generous to me; he had presented me
+with an Arab horse, had furnished me with letters of introduction to his
+agents, his chief men, and representatives in the interior, and in many
+other ways had shown himself well disposed towards me.
+
+The palace is a large, roomy, lofty, square house close to the fort,
+built of coral, and plastered thickly with lime mortar. In appearance
+it is half Arabic and half Italian. The shutters are Venetian blinds
+painted a vivid green, and presenting a striking contrast to the
+whitewashed walls. Before the great, lofty, wide door were ranged in
+two crescents several Baluch and Persian mercenaries, armed with
+curved swords and targes of rhinoceros hide. Their dress consisted of a
+muddy-white cotton shirt, reaching to the ancles, girdled with a leather
+belt thickly studded with silver bosses.
+
+As we came in sight a signal was passed to some person inside the
+entrance. When within twenty yards of the door, the Sultan, who was
+standing waiting, came down the steps, and, passing through the ranks,
+advanced toward us, with his right hand stretched out, and a genial
+smile of welcome on his face. On our side we raised our hats, and shook
+hands with him, after which, doing according as he bade us, we passed
+forward, and arrived on the highest step near the entrance door. He
+pointed forward; we bowed and arrived at the foot of an unpainted
+and narrow staircase to turn once more to the Sultan. The Consul, I
+perceived, was ascending sideways, a mode of progression which I saw was
+intended for a compromise with decency and dignity. At the top of the
+stairs we waited, with our faces towards the up-coming Prince. Again we
+were waved magnanimously forward, for before us was the reception-hall
+and throne-room. I noticed, as I marched forward to the furthest end,
+that the room was high, and painted in the Arabic style, that the carpet
+was thick and of Persian fabric, that the furniture consisted of a dozen
+gilt chairs and a chandelier,
+
+We were seated; Ludha Damji, the Banyan collector of customs, a
+venerable-looking old man, with a shrewd intelligent face, sat on the
+right of the Sultan; next to him was the great Mohammedan merchant Tarya
+Topan who had come to be present at the interview, not only because he
+was one of the councillors of His Highness, but because he also took a
+lively interest in this American Expedition. Opposite to Ludha sat Capt.
+Webb, and next to him I was seated, opposite Tarya Topan. The Sultan sat
+in a gilt chair between the Americans and the councillors. Johari
+the dragoman stood humbly before the Sultan, expectant and ready to
+interpret what we had to communicate to the Prince.
+
+The Sultan, so far as dress goes, might be taken for a Mingrelian
+gentleman, excepting, indeed, for the turban, whose ample folds in
+alternate colours of red, yellow, brown, and white, encircled his head.
+His long robe was of dark cloth, cinctured round the waist with his rich
+sword-belt, from which was suspended a gold-hilted scimitar, encased in
+a scabbard also enriched with gold: His legs and feet were bare, and had
+a ponderous look about them, since he suffered from that strange curse
+of Zanzibar--elephantiasis. His feet were slipped into a pair of watta
+(Arabic for slippers), with thick soles and a strong leathern band over
+the instep. His light complexion and his correct features, which are
+intelligent and regular, bespeak the Arab patrician. They indicate,
+however, nothing except his high descent and blood; no traits of
+character are visible unless there is just a trace of amiability, and
+perfect contentment with himself and all around.
+
+Such is Prince, or Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar and Pemba, and the
+East coast of Africa, from Somali Land to the Mozambique, as he appeared
+to me.
+
+Coffee was served in cups supported by golden finjans, also some
+cocoa-nut milk, and rich sweet sherbet.
+
+The conversation began with the question addressed to the Consul.
+
+"Are you well?"
+
+Consul.--"Yes, thank you. How is His Highness?"
+
+Highness.--"Quite well!"
+
+Highness to me.--"Are you well?"
+
+Answer.--"Quite well, thanks!"
+
+The Consul now introduces business; and questions about my travels
+follow from His Highness--
+
+"How do you like Persia?"
+
+"Have you seen Kerbela, Bagdad, Masr, Stamboul?"
+
+"Have the Turks many soldiers?"
+
+"How many has Persia?"
+
+"Is Persia fertile?"
+
+"How do you like Zanzibar?"
+
+Having answered each question to his Highness' satisfaction, he handed
+me letters of introduction to his officers at Bagamoyo and Kaole, and a
+general introductory letter to all Arab merchants whom I might meet on
+the road, and concluded his remarks to me, with the expressed hope, that
+on whatever mission I was bound, I should be perfectly successful.
+
+We bowed ourselves out of his presence in much the same manner that we
+had bowed ourselves in, he accompanying us to the great entrance door.
+
+Mr. Goodhue of Salem, an American merchant long resident in Zanzibar,
+presented me, as I gave him my adieu, with a blooded bay horse, imported
+from the Cape of Good Hope, and worth, at least at Zanzibar, $500.
+
+Feb. 4.--By the 4th of February, twenty-eight days from the date of my
+arrival at Zanzibar, the organization and equipment of the "'New
+York Herald' Expedition" was complete; tents and saddles had been
+manufactured, boats and sails were ready. The donkeys brayed, and the
+horses neighed impatiently for the road.
+
+Etiquette demanded that I should once more present my card to the
+European and American Consuls at Zanzibar, and the word "farewell" was
+said to everybody.
+
+On the fifth day, four dhows were anchored before the American
+Consulate. Into one were lifted the two horses, into two others the
+donkeys, into the fourth, the largest, the black escort, and bulky
+moneys of the Expedition.
+
+A little before noon we set sail. The American flag, a present to the
+Expedition by that kind-hearted lady, Mrs. Webb, was raised to the
+mast-head; the Consul, his lady, and exuberant little children, Mary
+and Charley, were on the housetop waving the starry banner, hats, and
+handkerchiefs, a token of farewell to me and mine. Happy people, and
+good! may their course and ours be prosperous, and may God's blessing
+rest on us all!
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV. -- LIFE AT BAGAMOYO.
+
+
+The isle of Zanzibar with its groves of cocoa-nut, mango, clove,
+and cinnamon, and its sentinel islets of Chumbi and French, with its
+whitewashed city and jack-fruit odor, with its harbor and ships that
+tread the deep, faded slowly from view, and looking westward, the
+African continent rose, a similar bank of green verdure to that which
+had just receded till it was a mere sinuous line above the horizon,
+looming in a northerly direction to the sublimity of a mountain chain.
+The distance across from Zanzibar to Bagamoyo may be about twenty-five
+miles, yet it took the dull and lazy dhows ten hours before they dropped
+anchor on the top of the coral reef plainly visible a few feet below the
+surface of the water, within a hundred yards of the beach.
+
+The newly-enlisted soldiers, fond of noise and excitement, discharged
+repeated salvos by way of a salute to the mixed crowd of Arabs, Banyans,
+and Wasawahili, who stood on the beach to receive the Musungu (white
+man), which they did with a general stare and a chorus of "Yambo, bana?"
+(how are you, master?)
+
+In our own land the meeting with a large crowd is rather a tedious
+operation, as our independent citizens insist on an interlacing of
+fingers, and a vigorous shaking thereof before their pride is satisfied,
+and the peaceful manifestation endorsed; but on this beach, well lined
+with spectators, a response of "Yambo, bana!" sufficed, except with one
+who of all there was acknowledged the greatest, and who, claiming, like
+all great men, individual attention, came forward to exchange another
+"Yambo!" on his own behalf, and to shake hands. This personage with a
+long trailing turban, was Jemadar Esau, commander of the Zanzibar force
+of soldiers, police, or Baluch gendarmes stationed at Bagamoyo. He had
+accompanied Speke and Grant a good distance into the interior, and they
+had rewarded him liberally. He took upon himself the responsibility of
+assisting in the debarkation of the Expedition, and unworthy as was his
+appearance, disgraceful as he was in his filth, I here commend him for
+his influence over the rabble to all future East African travellers.
+
+Foremost among those who welcomed us was a Father of the Society of
+St.-Esprit, who with other Jesuits, under Father Superior Horner, have
+established a missionary post of considerable influence and merit at
+Bagamoyo. We were invited to partake of the hospitality of the Mission,
+to take our meals there, and, should we desire it, to pitch our camp
+on their grounds. But however strong the geniality of the welcome and
+sincere the heartiness of the invitation, I am one of those who prefer
+independence to dependence if it is possible. Besides, my sense of the
+obligation between host and guest had just had a fine edge put upon
+it by the delicate forbearance of my kind host at Zanzibar, who had
+betrayed no sign of impatience at the trouble I was only too conscious
+of having caused him. I therefore informed the hospitable Padre, that
+only for one night could I suffer myself to be enticed from my camp.
+
+I selected a house near the western outskirts of the town, where there
+is a large open square through which the road from Unyanyembe enters.
+Had I been at Bagamoyo a month, I could not have bettered my location.
+My tents were pitched fronting the tembe (house) I had chosen, enclosing
+a small square, where business could be transacted, bales looked over,
+examined, and marked, free from the intrusion of curious sightseers.
+After driving the twenty-seven animals of the Expedition into the
+enclosure in the rear of the house, storing the bales of goods, and
+placing a cordon of soldiers round, I proceeded to the Jesuit Mission,
+to a late dinner, being tired and ravenous, leaving the newly-formed
+camp in charge of the white men and Capt. Bombay.
+
+The Mission is distant from the town a good half mile, to the north of
+it; it is quite a village of itself, numbering some fifteen or sixteen
+houses. There are more than ten padres engaged in the establishment,
+and as many sisters, and all find plenty of occupation in educing from
+native crania the fire of intelligence. Truth compels me to state that
+they are very successful, having over two hundred pupils, boys and
+girls, in the Mission, and, from the oldest to the youngest, they show
+the impress of the useful education they have received.
+
+The dinner furnished to the padres and their guest consisted of as many
+plats as a first-class hotel in Paris usually supplies, and cooked with
+nearly as much skill, though the surroundings were by no means equal.
+I feel assured also that the padres, besides being tasteful in their
+potages and entrees, do not stultify their ideas for lack of that
+element which Horace, Hafiz, and Byron have praised so much. The
+champagne--think of champagne Cliquot in East Africa!--Lafitte, La Rose,
+Burgundy, and Bordeaux were of first-rate quality, and the meek and
+lowly eyes of the fathers were not a little brightened under the
+vinous influence. Ah! those fathers understand life, and appreciate its
+duration. Their festive board drives the African jungle fever from their
+doors, while it soothes the gloom and isolation which strike one with
+awe, as one emerges from the lighted room and plunges into the depths
+of the darkness of an African night, enlivened only by the wearying
+monotone of the frogs and crickets, and the distant ululation of the
+hyena. It requires somewhat above human effort, unaided by the ruby
+liquid that cheers, to be always suave and polite amid the dismalities
+of native life in Africa.
+
+After the evening meal, which replenished my failing strength, and for
+which I felt the intensest gratitude, the most advanced of the pupils
+came forward, to the number of twenty, with brass instruments,
+thus forming a full band of music. It rather astonished me to hear
+instrumental sounds issue forth in harmony from such woolly-headed
+youngsters; to hear well-known French music at this isolated port,
+to hear negro boys, that a few months ago knew nothing beyond the
+traditions of their ignorant mothers, stand forth and chant Parisian
+songs about French valor and glory, with all the sangfroid of gamins
+from the purlieus of Saint-Antoine.
+
+I had a most refreshing night's rest, and at dawn I sought out my
+camp, with a will to enjoy the new life now commencing. On counting the
+animals, two donkeys were missing; and on taking notes of my African
+moneys, one coil of No. 6 wire was not to be found. Everybody had
+evidently fallen on the ground to sleep, oblivious of the fact that
+on the coast there are many dishonest prowlers at night. Soldiers were
+despatched to search through the town and neighbourhood, and Jemadar
+Esau was apprised of our loss, and stimulated to discover the animals
+by the promise of a reward. Before night one of the missing donkeys was
+found outside the town nibbling at manioc-leaves, but the other animal
+and the coil of wire were never found.
+
+Among my visitors this first day at Bagamoyo was Ali bin Salim, a
+brother of the famous Sayd bin Salim, formerly Ras Kafilah to Burton
+and Speke, and subsequently to Speke and Grant. His salaams were very
+profuse, and moreover, his brother was to be my agent in Unyamwezi, so
+that I did not hesitate to accept his offer of assistance. But, alas,
+for my white face and too trustful nature! this Ali bin Salim turned out
+to be a snake in the grass, a very sore thorn in my side. I was invited
+to his comfortable house to partake of coffee. I went there: the coffee
+was good though sugarless, his promises were many, but they proved
+valueless. Said he to me, "I am your friend; I wish to serve you., what
+can I do for you?" Replied I, "I am obliged to you, I need a good friend
+who, knowing the language and Customs of the Wanyamwezi, can procure me
+the pagazis I need and send me off quickly. Your brother is acquainted
+with the Wasungu (white men), and knows that what they promise they make
+good. Get me a hundred and forty pagazis and I will pay you your price."
+With unctuous courtesy, the reptile I was now warmly nourishing; said,
+"I do not want anything from you, my friend, for such a slight service,
+rest content and quiet; you shall not stop here fifteen days. To-morrow
+morning I will come and overhaul your bales to see what is needed." I
+bade him good morning, elated with the happy thought that I was soon to
+tread the Unyanyembe road.
+
+The reader must be made acquainted with two good and sufficient reasons
+why I was to devote all my energy to lead the Expedition as quickly as
+possible from Bagamoyo.
+
+First, I wished to reach Ujiji before the news reached Livingstone that
+I was in search of him, for my impression of him was that he was a man
+who would try to put as much distance as possible between us, rather
+than make an effort to shorten it, and I should have my long journey for
+nothing.
+
+Second, the Masika, or rainy season, would soon be on me, which, if it
+caught me at Bagamoyo, would prevent my departure until it was over,
+which meant a delay of forty days, and exaggerated as the rains were by
+all men with whom I came in contact, it rained every day for forty days
+without intermission. This I knew was a thing to dread; for I had my
+memory stored with all kinds of rainy unpleasantnesses. For instance,
+there was the rain of Virginia and its concomitant horrors--wetness,
+mildew, agues, rheumatics, and such like; then there were the English
+rains, a miserable drizzle causing the blue devils; then the rainy
+season of Abyssinia with the flood-gates of the firmament opened, and
+an universal down-pour of rain, enough to submerge half a continent in
+a few hours; lastly, there was the pelting monsoon of India, a steady
+shut-in-house kind of rain. To which of these rains should I compare
+this dreadful Masika of East Africa? Did not Burton write much about
+black mud in Uzaramo? Well, a country whose surface soil is called black
+mud in fine weather, what can it be called when forty days' rain beat on
+it, and feet of pagazis and donkeys make paste of it? These were natural
+reflections, induced by the circumstances of the hour, and I found
+myself much exercised in mind in consequence.
+
+Ali bin Salim, true to his promise, visited my camp on the morrow, with
+a very important air, and after looking at the pile of cloth bales,
+informed me that I must have them covered with mat-bags. He said he
+would send a man to have them measured, but he enjoined me not to make
+any bargain for the bags, as he would make it all right.
+
+While awaiting with commendable patience the 140 pagazis promised by
+Ali bin Salim we were all employed upon everything that thought could
+suggest needful for crossing the sickly maritime region, so that we
+might make the transit before the terrible fever could unnerve us,
+and make us joyless. A short experience at Bagamoya showed us what we
+lacked, what was superfluous, and what was necessary. We were visited
+one night by a squall, accompanied by furious rain. I had $1,500 worth
+of pagazi cloth in my tent. In the morning I looked and lo! the drilling
+had let in rain like a sieve, and every yard of cloth was wet. It
+occupied two days afterwards to dry the cloths, and fold them again. The
+drill-tent was condemned, and a No. 5 hemp-canvas tent at onto prepared.
+After which I felt convinced that my cloth bales, and one year's
+ammunition, were safe, and that I could defy the Masika.
+
+In the hurry of departure from Zanzibar, and in my ignorance of how
+bales should be made, I had submitted to the better judgment and ripe
+experience of one Jetta, a commission merchant, to prepare my bales for
+carriage. Jetta did not weigh the bales as he made them up, but piled
+the Merikani, Kaniki, Barsati, Jamdani, Joho, Ismahili, in alternate
+layers, and roped the same into bales. One or two pagazis came to my
+camp and began to chaffer; they wished to see the bales first, before
+they would make a final bargain. They tried to raise them up--ugh! ugh!
+it was of no use, and withdrew. A fine Salter's spring balance was hung
+up, and a bale suspended to the hook; the finger indicated 105 lbs. or
+3 frasilah, which was just 35 lbs. or one frasilah overweight. Upon
+putting all the bales to this test, I perceived that Jetta's guess-work,
+with all his experience, had caused considerable trouble to me.
+
+The soldiers were set to work to reopen and repack, which latter task
+is performed in the following manner:--We cut a doti, or four yards
+of Merikani, ordinarily sold at Zanzibar for $2.75 the piece of thirty
+yards, and spread out. We take a piece or bolt of good Merikani, and
+instead of the double fold given it by the Nashua and Salem mills, we
+fold it into three parts, by which the folds have a breadth of a foot;
+this piece forms the first layer, and will weigh nine pounds; the second
+layer consists of six pieces of Kaniki, a blue stuff similar to the
+blouse stuff of France, and the blue jeans of America, though much
+lighter; the third layer is formed of the second piece of Merikani, the
+fourth of six more pieces of Kaniki, the fifth of Merikani, the sixth
+of Kaniki as before, and the seventh and last of Merikani. We have thus
+four pieces of Merikani, which weigh 36 lbs., and 18 pieces of Kaniki
+weighing also 36 lbs., making a total of 72 lbs., or a little more than
+two frasilahs; the cloth is then folded singly over these layers, each
+corner tied to another. A bundle of coir-rope is then brought, and two
+men, provided with a wooden mallet for beating and pressing the bale,
+proceed to tie it up with as much nicety as sailors serve down rigging.
+
+When complete, a bale is a solid mass three feet and a half long, a
+foot deep, and a foot wide. Of these bales I had to convey eighty-two to
+Unyanyembe, forty of which consisted solely of the Merikani and Kaniki.
+The other forty-two contained the Merikani and coloured cloths, which
+latter were to serve as honga or tribute cloths, and to engage another
+set of pagazis from Unyanyembe to Ujiji, and from Ujiji to the regions
+beyond.
+
+The fifteenth day asked of me by Ali bin Salim for the procuring of the
+pagazis passed by, and there was not the ghost of a pagazi in my camp.
+I sent Mabruki the Bullheaded to Ali bin Salim, to convey my salaams and
+express a hope that he had kept his word. In half an hour's time Mabruki
+returned with the reply of the Arab, that in a few days he would be able
+to collect them all; but, added Mabruki, slyly, "Bana, I don't believe
+him. He said aloud to himself, in my hearing, 'Why should I get the
+Musungu pagazis? Seyd Burghash did not send a letter to me, but to the
+Jemadar. Why should I trouble myself about him? Let Seyd Burghash write
+me a letter to that purpose, and I will procure them within two days."'
+
+To my mind this was a time for action: Ali bin Salim should see that it
+was ill trifling with a white man in earnest to start. I rode down to
+his house to ask him what he meant.
+
+His reply was, Mabruki had told a lie as black as his face. He had never
+said anything approaching to such a thing. He was willing to become my
+slave--to become a pagazi himself. But here I stopped the voluble Ali,
+and informed him that I could not think of employing him in the capacity
+of a pagazi, neither could I find it in my heart to trouble Seyd
+Burghash to write a direct letter to him, or to require of a man who
+had deceived me once, as Ali bin Salim had, any service of any nature
+whatsoever. It would be better, therefore, if Ali bin Salim would stay
+away from my camp, and not enter it either in person or by proxy.
+
+I had lost fifteen days, for Jemadar Sadur, at Kaole, had never stirred
+from his fortified house in that village in my service, save to pay a
+visit, after the receipt of the Sultan's letter. Naranji, custom-house
+agent at Kaoie, solely under the thumb of the great Ludha Damji, had
+not responded to Ludha's worded request that he would procure pagazis,
+except with winks, nods, and promises, and it is but just stated how I
+fared at the hands of Ali bin Salim. In this extremity I remembered the
+promise made to me by the great merchant of Zanzibar--Tarya Topan--a
+Mohammedan Hindi--that he would furnish me with a letter to a young man
+named Soor Hadji Palloo, who was said to be the best man in Bagamoyo to
+procure a supply of pagazis.
+
+I despatched my Arab interpreter by a dhow to Zanzibar, with a very
+earnest request to Capt. Webb that he would procure from Tarya Topan the
+introductory letter so long delayed. It was the last card in my hand.
+
+On the third day the Arab returned, bringing with him not only the
+letter to Soor Hadji Palloo, but an abundance of good things from
+the ever-hospitable house of Mr. Webb. In a very short time after the
+receipt of his letter, the eminent young man Soor Hadji Palloo came to
+visit me, and informed me he had been requested by Tarya Topan to hire
+for me one hundred and forty pagazis to Unyanyembe in the shortest time
+possible. This he said would be very expensive, for there were scores
+of Arabs and Wasawabili merchants on the look out for every caravan that
+came in from the interior, and they paid 20 doti, or 80 yards of cloth,
+to each pagazi. Not willing or able to pay more, many of these merchants
+had been waiting as long as six months before they could get their
+quota. "If you," continued he, "desire to depart quickly, you must pay
+from 25 to 40 doti, and I can send you off before one month is ended."
+In reply, I said, "Here are my cloths for pagazis to the amount of
+$1,750, or 3,500 doti, sufficient to give one hundred and forty men 25
+doti each. The most I am willing to pay is 25 doti: send one hundred and
+forty pagazis to Unyanyembe with my cloth and wire, and I will make
+your heart glad with the richest present you have ever received." With a
+refreshing naivete, the "young man" said he did not want any present,
+he would get me my quota of pagazis, and then I could tell the "Wasungu"
+what a good "young man" he was, and consequently the benefit he would
+receive would be an increase of business. He closed his reply with the
+astounding remark that he had ten pagazis at his house already, and if I
+would be good enough to have four bales of cloth, two bags of beads,
+and twenty coils of wire carried to his house, the pagazis could leave
+Bagamoyo the next day, under charge of three soldiers.
+
+"For," he remarked, "it is much better and cheaper to send many small
+caravans than one large one. Large caravans invite attack, or are
+delayed by avaricious chiefs upon the most trivial pretexts, while small
+ones pass by without notice."
+
+The bales and the beads were duly carried to Soor Hadji Palloo's house,
+and the day passed with me in mentally congratulating myself upon my
+good fortune, in complimenting the young Hindi's talents for business,
+the greatness and influence of Tarya Topan, and the goodness of Mr.
+Webb in thus hastening my departure from Bagamoyo. I mentally vowed a
+handsome present, and a great puff in my book, to Soor Hadji Palloo, and
+it was with a glad heart that I prepared these soldiers for their march
+to Unyayembe.
+
+The task of preparing the first caravan for the Unyanyembe road informed
+me upon several things that have escaped the notice of my predecessors
+in East Africa, a timely knowledge of which would have been of infinite
+service to me at Zanzibar, in the purchase and selection of sufficient
+and proper cloth.
+
+The setting out of the first caravan enlightened me also on the subject
+of honga, or tribute. Tribute had to be packed by itself, all of
+choice cloth; for the chiefs, besides being avaricious, are also very
+fastidious. They will not accept the flimsy cloth of the pagazi, but
+a royal and exceedingly high-priced dabwani, Ismahili, Rehani, or a
+Sohari, or dotis of crimson broad cloth. The tribute for the first
+caravan cost $25. Having more than one hundred and forty pagazis to
+despatch, this tribute money would finally amount to $330 in gold, with
+a minimum of 25c. on each dollar. Ponder on this, O traveller! I lay
+bare these facts for your special instruction.
+
+But before my first caravan was destined to part company with me,
+Soor Hadji Palloo--worthy young man--and I were to come to a definite
+understanding about money matters. The morning appointed for departure
+Soor Hadji Palloo came to my hut and presented his bill, with all the
+gravity of innocence, for supplying the pagazis with twenty-five doti
+each as their hire to Unyanyembe, begging immediate payment in money.
+Words fail to express the astonishment I naturally felt, that this
+sharp-looking young man should so soon have forgotten the verbal
+contract entered into between him and myself the morning previous, which
+was to the effect that out of the three thousand doti stored in my tent,
+and bought expressly for pagazi hire, each and every man hired for me
+as carriers from Bagamoyo to Unyanyembe, should be paid out of the store
+there in my tent, when I asked if he remembered the contract, he replied
+in the affirmative: his reasons for breaking it so soon were, that he
+wished to sell his cloths, not mine, and for his cloths he should want
+money, not an exchange. But I gave him to comprehend that as he was
+procuring pagazis for me, he was to pay my pagazis with my cloths; that
+all the money I expected to pay him, should be just such a sum I thought
+adequate for his trouble as my agent, and that only on those terms
+should he act for me in this or any other matter, and that the "Musungu"
+was not accustomed to eat his words.
+
+The preceding paragraph embodies many more words than are contained
+in it. It embodies a dialogue of an hour, an angry altercation of
+half-an-hour's duration, a vow taken on the part of Soor Hadji Palloo,
+that if I did not take his cloths he should not touch my business, many
+tears, entreaties, woeful penitence, and much else, all of which were
+responded to with, "Do as I want you to do, or do nothing." Finally came
+relief, and a happy ending. Soor Hadji Palloo went away with a bright
+face, taking with him the three soldiers' posho (food), and honga
+(tribute) for the caravan. Well for me that it ended so, and that
+subsequent quarrels of a similar nature terminated so peaceably,
+otherwise I doubt whether my departure from Bagamoyo would have happened
+so early as it did. While I am on this theme, and as it really engrossed
+every moment of my time at Bagamoyo, I may as well be more explicit
+regarding Boor Hadji Palloo and his connection with my business.
+
+Boor Hadji Palloo was a smart young man of business, energetic, quick at
+mental calculation, and seemed to be born for a successful salesman. His
+eyes were never idle; they wandered over every part of my person, over
+the tent, the bed, the guns, the clothes, and having swung clear round,
+began the silent circle over again. His fingers were never at rest, they
+had a fidgety, nervous action at their tips, constantly in the act of
+feeling something; while in the act of talking to me, he would lean over
+and feel the texture of the cloth of my trousers, my coat, or my shoes
+or socks: then he would feel his own light jamdani shirt or dabwain
+loin-cloth, until his eyes casually resting upon a novelty, his body
+would lean forward, and his arm was stretched out with the willing
+fingers. His jaws also were in perpetual motion, caused by vile habits
+he had acquired of chewing betel-nut and lime, and sometimes tobacco and
+lime. They gave out a sound similar to that of a young shoat, in the
+act of sucking. He was a pious Mohammedan, and observed the external
+courtesies and ceremonies of the true believers. He would affably greet
+me, take off his shoes, enter my tent protesting he was not fit to sit
+in my presence, and after being seated, would begin his ever-crooked
+errand. Of honesty, literal and practical honesty, this youth knew
+nothing; to the pure truth he was an utter stranger; the falsehoods he
+had uttered during his short life seemed already to have quenched the
+bold gaze of innocence from his eyes, to have banished the colour of
+truthfulness from his features, to have transformed him--yet a stripling
+of twenty--into a most accomplished rascal, and consummate expert in
+dishonesty.
+
+During the six weeks I encamped at Bagamoyo, waiting for my quota of
+men, this lad of twenty gave me very much trouble. He was found out half
+a dozen times a day in dishonesty, yet was in no way abashed by it. He
+would send in his account of the cloths supplied to the pagazis, stating
+them to be 25 paid to each; on sending a man to inquire I would find the
+greatest number to have been 20, and the smallest 12. Soor Hadji Palloo
+described the cloths to be of first-class quality, Ulyah cloths, worth
+in the market four times more than the ordinary quality given to the
+pagazis, yet a personal examination would prove them to be the flimsiest
+goods sold, such as American sheeting 2 1/2 feet broad, and worth $2.75
+per 30 yards a piece at Zanzibar, or the most inferior Kaniki, which is
+generally sold at $9 per score. He would personally come to my camp
+and demand 40 lbs. of Sami-Sami, Merikani, and Bubu beads for posho,
+or caravan rations; an inspection of their store before departure from
+their first camp from Bagamoyo would show a deficiency ranging from 5
+to 30 lbs. Moreover, he cheated in cash-money, such as demanding $4 for
+crossing the Kingani Ferry for every ten pagazis, when the fare was $2
+for the same number; and an unconscionable number of pice (copper coins
+equal in value to 3/4 of a cent) were required for posho. It was every
+day for four weeks that this system of roguery was carried out. Each day
+conceived a dozen new schemes; every instant of his time he seemed to
+be devising how to plunder, until I was fairly at my wits' end how to
+thwart him. Exposure before a crowd of his fellows brought no blush of
+shame to his sallow cheeks; he would listen with a mere shrug of the
+shoulders and that was all, which I might interpret any way it pleased
+me. A threat to reduce his present had no effect; a bird in the hand was
+certainly worth two in the bush for him, so ten dollars' worth of goods
+stolen and in his actual possession was of more intrinsic value than the
+promise of $20 in a few days, though it was that of a white man.
+
+Readers will of course ask themselves why I did not, after the first
+discovery of these shameless proceedings, close my business with him,
+to which I make reply, that I could not do without him unless his equal
+were forthcoming, that I never felt so thoroughly dependent on any one
+man as I did upon him; without his or his duplicate's aid, I must have
+stayed at Bagamoyo at least six months, at the end of which time the
+Expedition would have become valueless, the rumour of it having been
+blown abroad to the four winds. It was immediate departure that was
+essential to my success--departure from Bagamoyo--after which it might
+be possible for me to control my own future in a great measure.
+
+These troubles were the greatest that I could at this time imagine.
+I have already stated that I had $1,750 worth of pagazis' clothes,
+or 3,500 doti, stored in my tent, and above what my bales contained.
+Calculating one hundred and forty pagazis at 25 doti each, I supposed I
+had enough, yet, though I had been trying to teach the young Hindi that
+the Musungu was not a fool, nor blind to his pilfering tricks, though
+the 3,500 doti were all spent; though I had only obtained one hundred
+and thirty pagazis at 25 doti each, which in the aggregate amounted to
+3,200 doti: Soor Hadji Palloo's bill was $1,400 cash extra. His plea was
+that he had furnished Ulyah clothes for Muhongo 240 doti, equal in value
+to 960 of my doti, that the money was spent in ferry pice, in presents
+to chiefs of caravans of tents, guns, red broad cloth, in presents to
+people on the Mrima (coast) to induce them to hunt up pagazis. Upon this
+exhibition of most ruthless cheating I waxed indignant, and declared to
+him that if he did not run over his bill and correct it, he should go
+without a pice.
+
+But before the bill could be put into proper shape, my words, threats,
+and promises falling heedlessly on a stony brain, a man, Kanjee by name,
+from the store of Tarya Topan, of Zanzibar, had to come over, when the
+bill was finally reduced to $738. Without any disrespect to Tarya Topan,
+I am unable to decide which is the most accomplished rascal, Kanjee,
+or young Soor Hadji Palloo; in the words of a white man who knows them
+both, "there is not the splitting of a straw between them." Kanjee is
+deep and sly, Soor Hadji Palloo is bold and incorrigible. But peace be
+to them both, may their shaven heads never be covered with the troublous
+crown I wore at Bagamoyo!
+
+My dear friendly reader, do not think, if I speak out my mind in this
+or in any other chapter upon matters seemingly trivial and unimportant,
+that seeming such they should be left unmentioned. Every tittle related
+is a fact, and to knew facts is to receive knowledge.
+
+How could I ever recite my experience to you if I did not enter upon
+these miserable details, which sorely distract the stranger upon his
+first arrival? Had I been a Government official, I had but wagged my
+finger and my quota of pagazis had been furnished me within a week; but
+as an individual arriving without the graces of official recognition,
+armed with no Government influence, I had to be patient, bide my time,
+and chew the cud of irritation quietly, but the bread I ate was not all
+sour, as this was.
+
+The white men, Farquhar and Shaw, were kept steadily at work upon
+water-proof tents of hemp canvas, for I perceived, by the premonitory
+showers of rain that marked the approach of the Masika that an ordinary
+tent of light cloth would subject myself to damp and my goods to mildew,
+and while there was time to rectify all errors that had crept into my
+plans through ignorance or over haste, I thought it was not wise to
+permit things to rectify themselves. Now that I have returned uninjured
+in health, though I have suffered the attacks of twenty-three fevers
+within the short space of thirteen months; I must confess I owe my life,
+first, to the mercy of God; secondly, to the enthusiasm for my work,
+which animated me from the beginning to the end; thirdly, to having
+never ruined my constitution by indulgence in vice and intemperance;
+fourthly, to the energy of my nature; fifthly, to a native hopefulness
+which never died; and, sixthly, to having furnished myself with a
+capacious water and damp proof canvas house. And here, if my experience
+may be of value, I would suggest that travellers, instead of submitting
+their better judgment to the caprices of a tent-maker, who will
+endeavour to pass off a handsomely made fabric of his own, which is
+unsuited to all climes, to use his own judgment, and get the best and
+strongest that money will buy. In the end it will prove the cheapest,
+and perhaps be the means of saving his life.
+
+On one point I failed, and lest new and young travellers fall into the
+same error which marred much of my enjoyment, this paragraph is written.
+One must be extremely careful in his choice of weapons, whether for
+sport or defence. A traveller should have at least three different
+kinds of guns. One should be a fowling-piece, the second should be
+a double-barrelled rifle, No. 10 or 12, the third should be a
+magazine-rifle, for defence. For the fowling-piece I would suggest No.
+12 bore, with barrels at least four feet in length. For the rifle for
+larger game, I would point out, with due deference to old sportsmen, of
+course, that the best guns for African game are the English Lancaster
+and Reilly rifles; and for a fighting weapon, I maintain that the
+best yet invented is the American Winchester repeating rifle, or the
+"sixteen, shooter" as it is called, supplied with the London Eley's
+ammunition. If I suggest as a fighting weapon the American Winchester, I
+do not mean that the traveller need take it for the purpose of offence,
+but as the beat means of efficient defence, to save his own life against
+African banditti, when attacked, a thing likely to happen any time.
+
+I met a young man soon after returning from the interior, who declared
+his conviction that the "Express," rifle was the most perfect weapon
+ever invented to destroy African game. Very possibly the young man may
+be right, and that the "Express" rifle is all he declares it to be, but
+he had never practised with it against African game, and as I had
+never tried it, I could not combat his assertion: but I could relate
+my experiences with weapons, having all the penetrating powers of the
+"Express," and could inform him that though the bullets penetrated
+through the animals, they almost always failed to bring down the game at
+the first fire. On the other hand, I could inform him, that during
+the time I travelled with Dr. Livingstone the Doctor lent me his heavy
+Reilly rifle with which I seldom failed to bring an animal or two home
+to the camp, and that I found the Fraser shell answer all purposes for
+which it was intended. The feats related by Capt. Speke and Sir Samuel
+Baker are no longer matter of wonderment to the young sportsman, when
+he has a Lancaster or a Reilly in his hand. After very few trials he can
+imitate them, if not excel their Leeds, provided he has a steady hand.
+And it is to forward this end that this paragraph is written. African
+game require "bone-crushers;" for any ordinary carbine possesses
+sufficient penetrative qualities, yet has not he disabling qualities
+which a gun must possess to be useful in the hands of an African
+explorer.
+
+I had not been long at Bagamoyo before I went over to Mussoudi's
+camp, to visit the "Livingstone caravan" which the British Consul
+had despatched on the first day of November, 1870, to the relief of
+Livingstone. The number of packages was thirty-five, which required as
+many men to convey them to Unyanyembe. The men chosen to escort this
+caravan were composed of Johannese and Wahiyow, seven in number. Out of
+the seven, four were slaves. They lived in clover here--thoughtless of
+the errand they had been sent upon, and careless of the consequences.
+What these men were doing at Bagamoyo all this time I never could
+conceive, except indulging their own vicious propensities. It would
+be nonsense to say there were no pagazis; because I know there were
+at least fifteen caravans which had started for the interior since the
+Ramadan (December 15th, 1870). Yet Livingstone's caravan had arrived at
+this little town of Bagamoyo November 2nd, and here it had been lying
+until the 10th February, in all, 100 days, for lack of the limited
+number of thirty-five pagazis, a number that might be procured within
+two days through consular influence.
+
+Bagamoyo has a most enjoyable climate. It is far preferable in every
+sense to that of Zanzibar. We were able to sleep in the open air, and
+rose refreshed and healthy each morning, to enjoy our matutinal bath in
+the sea; and by the time the sun had risen we were engaged in various
+preparations for our departure for the interior. Our days were enlivened
+by visits from the Arabs who were also bound for Unyanyembe; by comical
+scenes in the camp; sometimes by court-martials held on the refractory;
+by a boxing-match between Farquhar and Shaw, necessitating my prudent
+interference when they waxed too wroth; by a hunting excursion now and
+then to the Kingani plain and river; by social conversation with the
+old Jemadar and his band of Baluches, who were never tired of warning me
+that the Masika was at hand, and of advising me that my best course was
+to hurry on before the season for travelling expired.
+
+Among the employees with the Expedition were two Hindi and two Goanese.
+They had conceived the idea that the African interior was an El Dorado,
+the ground of which was strewn over with ivory tusks, and they had
+clubbed together; while their imaginations were thus heated, to embark
+in a little enterprise of their own. Their names were Jako, Abdul Kader,
+Bunder Salaam, and Aranselar; Jako engaged in my service, as carpenter
+and general help; Abdul Kader as a tailor, Bunder Salaam as cook, and
+Aranselar as chief butler.
+
+But Aranselar, with an intuitive eye, foresaw that I was likely to prove
+a vigorous employer, and while there was yet time he devoted most of
+it to conceive how it were possible to withdraw from the engagement. He
+received permission upon asking for it to go to Zanzibar to visit his
+friends. Two days afterwards I was informed he had blown his right eye
+out, and received a medical confirmation of the fact, and note of the
+extent of the injury, from Dr. Christie, the physician to His Highness
+Seyd Burghash. His compatriots I imagined were about planning the same
+thing, but a peremptory command to abstain from such folly, issued after
+they had received their advance-pay, sufficed to check any sinister
+designs they may have formed.
+
+A groom was caught stealing from the bales, one night, and the chase
+after him into the country until he vanished out of sight into the
+jungle, was one of the most agreeable diversions which occurred to wear
+away the interval employed in preparing for the march.
+
+I had now despatched four caravans into the interior, and the fifth,
+which was to carry the boats and boxes, personal luggage, and a few
+cloth and bead loads, was ready to be led by myself. The following is
+the order of departure of the caravans.
+
+1871. Feb. 6.--Expedition arrived at Bagamoyo.
+
+1871. Feb. 18.--First caravan departs with twenty-four pagazis and three
+soldiers.
+
+1871. Feb. 21.--Second caravan departs with twenty-eight pagazis, two
+chiefs, and two soldiers.
+
+1871. Feb. 25.--Third caravan departs with twenty-two pagazis, ten
+donkeys, one white man, one cook, and three soldiers.
+
+1871. March. 11.--Fourth caravan departs with fifty-five pagazis, two
+chiefs, and three soldiers.
+
+1871. March. 21.--Fifth caravan departs with twenty-eight pagazis,
+twelve soldiers, two white men, one tailor, one cook, one interpreter,
+one gun-bearer, seventeen asses, two horses, and one dog.
+
+Total number, inclusive of all souls, comprised in caravans connected
+with the "New York Herald' Expedition," 192.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V. -- THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA.
+
+
+     Leaving Bagamoyo for the interior.--Constructing a Bridge.--
+     Our first troubles.--Shooting Hippopotami.--A first view of
+     the Game Land.--Anticipating trouble with the Wagogo.--The
+     dreadful poison--flies.--Unlucky adventures while hunting.--
+     The cunning chief of Kingaru.--Sudden death of my two
+     horses.--A terrible experience.--The city of the "Lion
+     Lord."
+
+
+On the 21st of March, exactly seventy-three days after my arrival at
+Zanzibar, the fifth caravan, led by myself, left the town of Bagamoyo
+for our first journey westward, with "Forward!" for its mot du guet. As
+the kirangozi unrolled the American flag, and put himself at the head of
+the caravan, and the pagazis, animals, soldiers, and idlers were lined
+for the march, we bade a long farewell to the dolce far niente of
+civilised life, to the blue ocean, and to its open road to home, to the
+hundreds of dusky spectators who were there to celebrate our departure
+with repeated salvoes of musketry.
+
+Our caravan is composed of twenty-eight pagazis, including the
+kirangozi, or guide; twelve soldiers under Capt. Mbarak Bombay, in
+charge of seventeen donkeys and their loads; Selim, my interpreter, in
+charge of the donkey and cart and its load; one cook and sub, who is
+also to be tailor and ready hand for all, and leads the grey horse;
+Shaw, once mate of a ship, now transformed into rearguard and overseer
+for the caravan, who is mounted on a good riding-donkey, and wearing a
+canoe-like tepee and sea-boots; and lastly, on, the splendid bay horse
+presented to me by Mr. Goodhue, myself, called Bana Mkuba, "the big
+master," by my people--the vanguard, the reporter, the thinker, and
+leader of the Expedition.
+
+Altogether the Expedition numbers on the day of departure three white
+men, twenty-three soldiers, four supernumeraries, four chiefs, and one
+hundred and fifty-three pagazis, twenty-seven donkeys, and one cart,
+conveying cloth, beads, and wire, boat-fixings, tents, cooking utensils
+and dishes, medicine, powder, small shot, musket-balls, and metallic
+cartridges; instruments and small necessaries, such as soap, sugar, tea,
+coffee, Liebig's extract of meat, pemmican, candles, &c., which make
+a total of 153 loads. The weapons of defence which the Expedition
+possesses consist of one double-barrel breech-loading gun, smooth bore;
+one American Winchester rifle, or "sixteen-shooter;" one Henry rifle,
+or "sixteen-shooter;" two Starr's breech-loaders, one Jocelyn
+breech-loader, one elephant rifle, carrying balls eight to the pound;
+two breech-loading revolvers, twenty-four muskets (flint locks), six
+single-barrelled pistols, one battle-axe, two swords, two daggers
+(Persian kummers, purchased at Shiraz by myself), one boar-spear,
+two American axes 4 lbs. each, twenty-four hatchets, and twenty-four
+butcher-knives.
+
+
+The Expedition has been fitted with care; whatever it needed was not
+stinted; everything was provided. Nothing was done too hurriedly, yet
+everything was purchased, manufactured, collected, and compounded with
+the utmost despatch consistent with efficiency and means. Should it fail
+of success in its errand of rapid transit to Ujiji and back, it must
+simply happen from an accident which could not be controlled. So much
+for the _personnel_ of the Expedition and its purpose, until its _point
+de mire_ be reached.
+
+We left Bagamoyo the attraction of all the curious, with much eclat, and
+defiled up a narrow lane shaded almost to twilight by the dense umbrage
+of two parallel hedges of mimosas. We were all in the highest spirits.
+The soldiers sang, the kirangozi lifted his voice into a loud bellowing
+note, and fluttered the American flag, which told all on-lookers, "Lo, a
+Musungu's caravan!" and my heart, I thought, palpitated much too quickly
+for the sober face of a leader. But I could not check it; the enthusiasm
+of youth still clung to me--despite my travels; my pulses bounded with
+the full glow of staple health; behind me were the troubles which had
+harassed me for over two months. With that dishonest son of a Hindi,
+Soor Hadji Palloo, I had said my last word; of the blatant rabble, of
+Arabs, Banyans, and Baluches I had taken my last look; with the Jesuits
+of the French Mission I had exchanged farewells, and before me beamed
+the sun of promise as he sped towards the Occident. Loveliness glowed
+around me. I saw fertile fields, riant vegetation, strange trees--I
+heard the cry of cricket and pee-wit, and sibilant sound of many
+insects, all of which seemed to tell me, "At last you are started." What
+could I do but lift my face toward the pure-glowing sky, and cry, "God
+be thanked!"
+
+The first camp, Shamba Gonera, we arrived at in 1 hour 30 minutes, equal
+to 3 1/4 miles. This first, or "little journey," was performed very
+well, "considering," as the Irishman says. The boy Selim upset the cart
+not more than three times. Zaidi, the soldier, only once let his donkey,
+which carried one bag of my clothes and a box of ammunition, lie in
+a puddle of black water. The clothes have to be re-washed; the
+ammunition-box, thanks to my provision, was waterproof. Kamna perhaps
+knew the art of donkey-driving, but, overjoyful at the departure, had
+sung himself into oblivion of the difficulties with which an animal of
+the pure asinine breed has naturally to contend against, such as not
+knowing the right road, and inability to resist the temptation of
+straying into the depths of a manioc field; and the donkey, ignorant of
+the custom in vogue amongst ass-drivers of flourishing sticks before
+an animal's nose, and misunderstanding the direction in which he was
+required to go, ran off at full speed along an opposite road, until his
+pack got unbalanced, and he was fain to come to the earth. But these
+incidents were trivial, of no importance, and natural to the first
+"little journey" in East Africa.
+
+The soldiers' point of character leaked out just a little. Bombay turned
+out to be honest and trusty, but slightly disposed to be dilatory.
+Uledi did more talking than work; while the runaway Ferajji and the
+useless-handed Mabruki Burton turned out to be true men and staunch,
+carrying loads the sight of which would have caused the strong-limbed
+hamals of Stamboul to sigh.
+
+The saddles were excellent, surpassing expectation. The strong hemp
+canvas bore its one hundred and fifty-pounds' burden with the strength
+of bull hide, and the loading and unloading of miscellaneous baggage
+was performed with systematic despatch. In brief, there was nothing to
+regret--the success of the journey proved our departure to be anything
+but premature.
+
+The next three days were employed in putting the finishing touches to
+our preparations for the long land journey and our precautions against
+the Masika, which was now ominously near, and in settling accounts.
+
+Shamba Gonera means Gonera's Field. Gonera is a wealthy Indian widow,
+well disposed towards the Wasungu (whites). She exports much cloth,
+beads, and wire into the far interior, and imports in return much ivory.
+Her house is after the model of the town houses, with long sloping roof
+and projecting eaves, affording a cool shade, under which the pagazis
+love to loiter. On its southern and eastern side stretch the cultivated
+fields which supply Bagamoyo with the staple grain, matama, of East
+Africa; on the left grow Indian corn, and muhogo, a yam-like root
+of whitish colour, called by some manioc; when dry, it is ground and
+compounded into cakes similar to army slapjacks. On the north, just
+behind the house, winds a black quagmire, a sinuous hollow, which in
+its deepest parts always contains water--the muddy home of the
+brake-and-rush-loving "kiboko" or hippopotamus. Its banks, crowded
+with dwarf fan-palm, tall water-reeds, acacias, and tiger-grass, afford
+shelter to numerous aquatic birds, pelicans, &c. After following a
+course north-easterly, it conflows with the Kingani, which, at distance
+of four miles from Gonera's country-house; bends eastward into the sea.
+To the west, after a mile of cultivation, fall and recede in succession
+the sea-beach of old in lengthy parallel waves, overgrown densely
+with forest grass and marsh reeds. On the spines of these land-swells
+flourish ebony, calabash, and mango.
+
+"Sofari--sofari leo! Pakia, pakia!"--"A journey--a journey to day! Set
+out!--set out!" rang the cheery voice of the kirangozi, echoed by that
+of my servant Selim, on the morning of the fourth day, which was fixed
+for our departure in earnest. As I hurried my men to their work, and
+lent a hand with energy to drop the tents, I mentally resolved that,
+if my caravans a should give me clear space, Unyanyembe should be our
+resting-place before three months expired. By 6 A.M. our early breakfast
+was despatched, and the donkeys and pagazis were defiling from Camp
+Gonera. Even at this early hour, and in this country place, there was
+quite a collection of curious natives, to whom we gave the parting
+"Kwaheri" with sincerity. My bay horse was found to be invaluable for
+the service of a quarter-master of a transport-train; for to such was I
+compelled to compare myself. I could stay behind until the last donkey
+had quitted the camp, and, by a few minutes' gallop, I could put myself
+at the head, leaving Shaw to bring up the rear.
+
+The road was a mere footpath, and led over a soil which, though
+sandy, was of surprising fertility, producing grain and vegetables
+a hundredfold, the sowing and planting of which was done in the most
+unskilful manner. In their fields, at heedless labor, were men and women
+in the scantiest costumes, compared to which Adam and Eve, in their
+fig-tree apparel, must have been _en grande tenue_. We passed them with
+serious faces, while they laughed and giggled, and pointed their index
+fingers at this and that, which to them seemed so strange and bizarre.
+
+In about half an hour we had left the tall matama and fields of
+water-melons, cucumbers, and manioc; and, crossing a reedy slough,
+were in an open forest of ebony and calabash. In its depths are deer in
+plentiful numbers, and at night it is visited by the hippopotami of the
+Kingani for the sake of its grass. In another hour we had emerged from
+the woods, and were looking down upon the broad valley of the Kingani,
+and a scene presented itself so utterly different from what my foolish
+imagination had drawn, that I felt quite relieved by the pleasing
+disappointment. Here was a valley stretching four miles east and west,
+and about eight miles north and south, left with the richest soil to its
+own wild growth of grass--which in civilization would have been a most
+valuable meadow for the rearing of cattle--invested as it was by dense
+forests, darkening the horizon at all points of the compass, and folded
+in by tree-clad ridges.
+
+At the sound of our caravan the red antelope bounded away to our right
+and the left, and frogs hushed their croak. The sun shone hot, and
+while traversing the valley we experienced a little of its real African
+fervour. About half way across we came to a sluice of stagnant water
+which, directly in the road of the caravan, had settled down into an
+oozy pond. The pagazis crossed a hastily-constructed bridge, thrown up
+a long time ago by some Washensi Samaritans. It was an extraordinary
+affair; rugged tree limbs resting on very unsteady forked piles, and it
+had evidently tested the patience of many a loaded Mnyamwezi, as it
+did those porters of our caravan. Our weaker animals were unloaded, the
+puddle between Bagamoyo and Genera having taught us prudence. But
+this did not occasion much delay; the men worked smartly under Shaw's
+supervision.
+
+The turbid Kingani, famous for its hippopotami, was reached in a short
+time, and we began to thread the jungle along its right bank until we
+were halted point-blank by a narrow sluice having an immeasurable depth
+of black mud. The difficulty presented by this was very grave, though
+its breadth was barely eight feet; the donkeys, and least of all the
+horses, could not be made to traverse two poles like our biped carriers,
+neither could they be driven into the sluice, where they would quickly
+founder. The only available way of crossing it in safety was by means
+of a bridge, to endure in this conservative land for generations as the
+handiwork of the Wasungu. So we set to work, there being no help for it,
+with American axes--the first of their kind the strokes of which ever
+rang in this part of the world--to build a bridge. Be sure it was made
+quickly, for where the civilized white is found, a difficulty must
+vanish. The bridge was composed of six stout trees thrown across, over
+these were laid crosswise fifteen pack saddles, covered again with a
+thick layer of grass. All the animals crossed it safely, and then for a
+third time that morning the process of wading was performed. The Kingani
+flowed northerly here, and our course lay down its right bank. A half
+mile in that direction through a jungle of giant reeds and extravagant
+climbers brought us to the ferry, where the animals had to be again
+unloaded--verily, I wished when I saw its deep muddy waters that I
+possessed the power of Moses with his magic rod, or what would have
+answered my purpose as well, Aladdin's ring, for then I could have found
+myself and party on the opposite side without further trouble; but not
+having either of these gifts I issued orders for an immediate crossing,
+for it was ill wishing sublime things before this most mundane prospect.
+
+Kingwere, the canoe paddler, espying us from his brake covert, on the
+opposite side, civilly responded to our halloos, and brought his huge
+hollowed tree skilfully over the whirling eddies of the river to where
+we stood waiting for him. While one party loaded the canoe with our
+goods, others got ready a long rape to fasten around the animals' necks,
+wherewith to haul them through the river to the other bank. After seeing
+the work properly commenced, I sat down on a condemned canoe to amuse
+myself with the hippopotami by peppering their thick skulls with my No.
+12 smooth-bore. The Winchester rifle (calibre 44), a present from the
+Hon. Edward Joy Morris--our minister at Constantinople--did no more than
+slightly tap them, causing about as much injury as a boy's sling; it was
+perfect in its accuracy of fire, for ten times in succession I struck
+the tops of their heads between the ears. One old fellow, with the look
+of a sage, was tapped close to the right ear by one of these bullets.
+Instead of submerging himself as others had done he coolly turned round
+his head as if to ask, "Why this waste of valuable cartridges on
+us?" The response to the mute inquiry of his sageship was an
+ounce-and-a-quarter bullet from the smooth-bore, which made him bellow
+with pain, and in a few moments he rose up again, tumbling in his death
+agonies. As his groans were so piteous, I refrained from a useless
+sacrifice of life, and left the amphibious horde in peace.
+
+A little knowledge concerning these uncouth inmates of the African
+waters was gained even during the few minutes we were delayed at the
+ferry. When undisturbed by foreign sounds, they congregate in shallow
+water on the sand bars, with the fore half of their bodies exposed
+to the warm sunshine, and are in appearance, when thus somnolently
+reposing, very like a herd of enormous swine. When startled by the noise
+of an intruder, they plunge hastily into the depths, lashing the waters
+into a yellowish foam, and scatter themselves below the surface, when
+presently the heads of a few reappear, snorting the water from their
+nostrils, to take a fresh breath and a cautious scrutiny around them;
+when thus, we see but their ears, forehead, eyes and nostrils, and as
+they hastily submerge again it requires a steady wrist and a quick hand
+to shoot them. I have heard several comparisons made of their appearance
+while floating in this manner: some Arabs told me before I had seen them
+that they looked like dead trees carried down the river; others, who in
+some country had seen hogs, thought they resembled them, but to my mind
+they look more like horses when swimming their curved necks and
+pointed ears, their wide eyes and expanded nostrils, favor greatly this
+comparison.
+
+At night they seek the shore, and wander several miles over the country,
+luxuriating among its rank grasses. To within four miles of the town
+of Bagamoyo (the Kingani is eight miles distant) their wide tracks are
+seen. Frequently, if not disturbed by the startling human voice, they
+make a raid on the rich corn-stalks of the native cultivators, and a
+dozen of them will in a few minutes make a frightful havoc in a large
+field of this plant. Consequently, we were not surprised, while delayed
+at the ferry, to hear the owners of the corn venting loud halloos, like
+the rosy-cheeked farmer boys in England when scaring the crows away from
+the young wheat.
+
+The caravan in the meanwhile had crossed safely--bales, baggage,
+donkeys, and men. I had thought to have camped on the bank, so as to
+amuse myself with shooting antelope, and also for the sake of procuring
+their meat, in order to save my goats, of which I had a number
+constituting my live stock of provisions; but, thanks to the awe and
+dread which my men entertained of the hippopotami, I was hurried on to
+the outpost of the Baluch garrison at Bagamoyo, a small village called
+Kikoka, distant four miles from the river.
+
+The western side of the river was a considerable improvement upon the
+eastern. The plain, slowly heaving upwards, as smoothly as the beach of
+a watering-place, for the distance of a mile, until it culminated in
+a gentle and rounded ridge, presented none of those difficulties which
+troubled us on the other side. There were none of those cataclysms
+of mire and sloughs of black mud and over-tall grasses, none of that
+miasmatic jungle with its noxious emissions; it was just such a scene
+as one may find before an English mansion--a noble expanse of lawn
+and sward, with boscage sufficient to agreeably diversify it. After
+traversing the open plain, the road led through a grove of young ebony
+trees, where guinea-fowls and a hartebeest were seen; it then wound,
+with all the characteristic eccentric curves of a goat-path, up and
+down a succession of land-waves crested by the dark green foliage of
+the mango, and the scantier and lighter-coloured leaves of the enormous
+calabash. The depressions were filled with jungle of more or less
+density, while here and there opened glades, shadowed even during noon
+by thin groves of towering trees. At our approach fled in terror flocks
+of green pigeons, jays, ibis, turtledoves, golden pheasants, quails and
+moorhens, with crows and hawks, while now and then a solitary pelican
+winged its way to the distance.
+
+Nor was this enlivening prospect without its pairs of antelope, and
+monkeys which hopped away like Australian kangaroos; these latter were
+of good size, with round bullet heads, white breasts, and long tails
+tufted at the end.
+
+We arrived at Kikoka by 5 P.M., having loaded and unloaded our pack
+animals four times, crossing one deep puddle, a mud sluice, and a river,
+and performed a journey of eleven miles.
+
+The settlement of Kikoka is a collection of straw huts; not built after
+any architectural style, but after a bastard form, invented by indolent
+settlers from the Mrima and Zanzibar for the purpose of excluding as
+much sunshine as possible from the eaves and interior. A sluice and some
+wells provide them with water, which though sweet is not particularly
+wholesome or appetizing, owing to the large quantities of decayed matter
+which is washed into it by the rains, and is then left to corrupt in it.
+A weak effort has been made to clear the neighbourhood for providing
+a place for cultivation, but to the dire task of wood-chopping and
+jungle-clearing the settlers prefer occupying an open glade, which they
+clear of grass, so as to be able to hoe up two or three inches of soil,
+into which they cast their seed, confident of return.
+
+The next day was a halt at Kikoka; the fourth caravan, consisting solely
+of Wanyamwezi, proving a sore obstacle to a rapid advance. Maganga, its
+chief, devised several methods of extorting more cloth and presents from
+me, he having cost already more than any three chiefs together; but his
+efforts were of no avail further than obtaining promises of reward if he
+would hurry on to Unyanyembe so that I might find my road clear.
+
+On the 2(7?)th, the Wanyamwezi having started, we broke camp soon after
+at 7 am. The country was of the same nature as that lying between
+the Kingani and Kikokaa park land, attractive and beautiful in every
+feature.
+
+I rode in advance to secure meat should a chance present itself, but
+not the shadow of vert or venison did I see. Ever in our
+front--westerly--rolled the land-waves, now rising, now subsiding,
+parallel one with the other, like a ploughed field many times magnified.
+Each ridge had its knot of jungle or its thin combing of heavily
+foliaged trees, until we arrived close to Rosako, our next halting
+place, when the monotonous wavure of the land underwent a change,
+breaking into independent hummocks clad with dense jungle. On one of
+these, veiled by an impenetrable jungle of thorny acacia, rested Rosako;
+girt round by its natural fortification, neighbouring another village
+to the north of it similarly protected. Between them sank a valley
+extremely fertile and bountiful in its productions, bisected by a small
+stream, which serves as a drain to the valley or low hills surrounding
+it.
+
+Rosako is the frontier village of Ukwere, while Kikoka is the
+north-western extremity of Uzaramo. We entered this village, and
+occupied its central portion with our tents and animals. A kitanda,
+or square light bedstead, without valance, fringe, or any superfluity
+whatever, but nevertheless quite as comfortable as with them, was
+brought to my tent for my use by the village chief. The animals were,
+immediately after being unloaded, driven out to feed, and the soldiers
+to a man set to work to pile the baggage up, lest the rain, which during
+the Masika season always appears imminent, might cause irreparable
+damage.
+
+Among other experiments which I was about to try in Africa was that of
+a good watch-dog on any unmannerly people who would insist upon coming
+into my tent at untimely hours and endangering valuables. Especially did
+I wish to try the effect of its bark on the mighty Wagogo, who, I was
+told by certain Arabs, would lift the door of the tent and enter whether
+you wished them or not; who would chuckle at the fear they inspired, and
+say to you, "Hi, hi, white man, I never saw the like of you before; are
+there many more like you? where do you come from?" Also would they take
+hold of your watch and ask you with a cheerful curiosity, "What is this
+for, white man?" to which you of course would reply that it was to tell
+you the hour and minute. But the Mgogo, proud of his prowess, and more
+unmannerly than a brute, would answer you with a snort of insult. I
+thought of a watch-dog, and procured a good one at Bombay not only as a
+faithful companion, but to threaten the heels of just such gentry.
+
+But soon after our arrival at Rosako it was found that the dog, whose
+name was "Omar," given him from his Turkish origin, was missing; he had
+strayed away from the soldiers during a rain-squall and had got lost.
+I despatched Mabruki Burton back to Kikoka to search for him. On the
+following morning, just as we were about to leave Rosako, the faithful
+fellow returned with the lost dog, having found him at Kikoka.
+
+Previous to our departure on the morning after this, Maganga, chief
+of the fourth caravan, brought me the unhappy report that three of his
+pagazis were sick, and he would like to have some "dowa"--medicine.
+Though not a doctor, or in any way connected with the profession, I had
+a well-supplied medicine chest--without which no traveller in Africa
+could live--for just such a contingency as was now present. On visiting
+Maganga's sick men, I found one suffering from inflammation of the
+lungs, another from the mukunguru (African intermittent). They all
+imagined themselves about to die, and called loudly for "Mama!" "Mama!"
+though they were all grown men. It was evident that the fourth caravan
+could not stir that day, so leaving word with Magauga to hurry after me
+as soon as possible, I issued orders for the march of my own.
+
+Excepting in the neighbourhood of the villages which we have passed
+there were no traces of cultivation. The country extending between the
+several stations is as much a wilderness as the desert of Sahara, though
+it possesses a far more pleasing aspect. Indeed, had the first man at
+the time of the Creation gazed at his world and perceived it of the
+beauty which belongs to this part of Africa, he would have had no cause
+of complaint. In the deep thickets, set like islets amid a sea of grassy
+verdure, he would have found shelter from the noonday heat, and a safe
+retirement for himself and spouse during the awesome darkness. In the
+morning he could have walked forth on the sloping sward, enjoyed its
+freshness, and performed his ablutions in one of the many small streams
+flowing at its foot. His garden of fruit-trees is all that is required;
+the noble forests, deep and cool, are round about him, and in their
+shade walk as many animals as one can desire. For days and days let a
+man walk in any direction, north, south, east, and west, and he will
+behold the same scene.
+
+Earnestly as I wished to hurry on to Unyanyembe, still a heart-felt
+anxiety about the arrival of my goods carried by the fourth caravan,
+served as a drag upon me and before my caravan had marched nine miles
+my anxiety had risen to the highest pitch, and caused me to order a camp
+there and then. The place selected for it was near a long straggling
+sluice, having an abundance of water during the rainy season, draining
+as it does two extensive slopes. No sooner had we pitched our camp,
+built a boma of thorny acacia, and other tree branches, by stacking them
+round our camp, and driven our animals to grass; than we were made aware
+of the formidable number and variety of the insect tribe, which for a
+time was another source of anxiety, until a diligent examination of the
+several species dispelled it.
+
+As it was a most interesting hunt which I instituted for the several
+specimens of the insects, I here append the record of it for what it is
+worth. My object in obtaining these specimens was to determine whether
+the genus _Glossina morsitans_ of the naturalist, or the tsetse
+(sometimes called setse) of Livingstone, Vardon, and Gumming, said to
+be deadly to horses, was amongst them. Up to this date I had been nearly
+two months in East Africa, and had as yet seen no tsetse; and my horses,
+instead of becoming emaciated--for such is one of the symptoms of a
+tsetse bite--had considerably improved in condition. There were three
+different species of flies which sought shelter in my tent, which,
+unitedly, kept up a continual chorus of sounds--one performed the basso
+profondo, another a tenor, and the third a weak contralto. The first
+emanated from a voracious and fierce fly, an inch long, having a ventral
+capacity for blood quite astonishing.
+
+This larger fly was the one chosen for the first inspection, which was
+of the intensest. I permitted one to alight on my flannel pyjamas, which
+I wore while en deshabille in camp. No sooner had he alighted than his
+posterior was raised, his head lowered, and his weapons, consisting
+of four hair-like styles, unsheathed from the proboscis-like bag which
+concealed them, and immediately I felt pain like that caused by a
+dexterous lancet-cut or the probe of a fine needle. I permitted him to
+gorge himself, though my patience and naturalistic interest were sorely
+tried. I saw his abdominal parts distend with the plenitude of the
+repast until it had swollen to three times its former shrunken girth,
+when he flew away of his own accord laden with blood. On rolling up my
+flannel pyjamas to see the fountain whence the fly had drawn the fluid,
+I discovered it to be a little above the left knee, by a crimson bead
+resting over the incision. After wiping the blood the wound was similar
+to that caused by a deep thrust of a fine needle, but all pain had
+vanished with the departure of the fly.
+
+Having caught a specimen of this fly, I next proceeded to institute a
+comparison between it and the tsetse, as described by Dr. Livingstone on
+pp. 56-57, 'Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa' (Murray's
+edition of 1868). The points of disagreement are many, and such as to
+make it entirely improbable that this fly is the true tsetse, though my
+men unanimously stated that its bite was fatal to horses as well as to
+donkeys. A descriptive abstract of the tsetse would read thus: "Not much
+larger than a common house-fly, nearly of the same brown colour as the
+honey-bee. After-part of the body has yellow bars across it. It has a
+peculiar buzz, and its bite is death to the horse, ox, and dog. On man
+the bite has no effect, neither has it on wild animals. When allowed
+to feed on the hand, it inserts the middle prong of three portions into
+which the proboscis divides, it then draws the prong out a little
+way, and it assumes a crimson colour as the mandibles come into brisk
+operation; a slight itching irritation follows the bite."
+
+The fly which I had under inspection is called mabunga by the natives.
+It is much larger than the common housefly, fully a third larger than
+the common honey-bee, and its colour more distinctly marked; its head is
+black, with a greenish gloss to it; the after-part of the body is marked
+by a white line running lengthwise from its junction with the trunk, and
+on each side of this white line are two other lines, one of a crimson
+colour, the other of a light brown. As for its buzz, there is no
+peculiarity in it, it might be mistaken for that of a honey-bee. When
+caught it made desperate efforts to get away, but never attempted to
+bite. This fly, along with a score of others, attacked my grey horse,
+and bit it so sorely in the legs that they appeared as if bathed in
+blood. Hence, I might have been a little vengeful if, with more than the
+zeal of an entomologist, I caused it to disclose whatever peculiarities
+its biting parts possessed.
+
+In order to bring this fly as life-like as possible before my readers, I
+may compare its head to most tiny miniature of an elephant's, because it
+has a black proboscis and a pair of horny antennae, which in colour and
+curve resemble tusks. The black proboscis, however, the simply a hollow
+sheath, which encloses, when not in the act of biting, four reddish
+and sharp lancets. Under the microscope these four lancets differ in
+thickness, two are very thick, the third is slender, but the fourth, of
+an opal colour and almost transparent, is exceedingly fine. This last
+must be the sucker. When the fly is about to wound, the two horny
+antennae are made to embrace the part, the lancets are unsheathed, and
+on the instant the incision is performed. This I consider to be the
+African "horse-fly."
+
+The second fly, which sang the tenor notes more nearly resembled in size
+and description the tsetse. It was exceedingly nimble, and it occupied
+three soldiers nearly an hour to capture a specimen; and, when it was
+finally caught, it stung most ravenously the hand, and never ceased
+its efforts to attack until it was pinned through. It had three or four
+white marks across the after-part of its body; but the biting parts of
+this fly consisted of two black antennae and an opal coloured style,
+which folded away under the neck. When about to bite, this style was
+shot out straight, and the antennae embraced it closely. After death the
+fly lost its distinctive white marks. Only one of this species did
+we see at this camp. The third fly, called "chufwa," pitched a weak
+alto-crescendo note, was a third larger than the house fly, and had long
+wings. If this insect sang the feeblest note, it certainly did the most
+work, and inflicted the most injury. Horses and donkeys streamed with
+blood, and reared and kicked through the pain. So determined was it not
+to be driven before it obtained its fill, that it was easily despatched;
+but this dreadful enemy to cattle constantly increased in numbers. The
+three species above named are, according to natives, fatal to
+cattle; and this may perhaps be the reason why such a vast expanse of
+first-class pasture is without domestic cattle of any kind, a few goats
+only being kept by the villagers. This fly I subsequently found to be
+the "tsetse."
+
+On the second morning, instead of proceeding, I deemed it more prudent
+to await the fourth caravan. Burton experimented sufficiently for me
+on the promised word of the Banyans of Kaole and Zanzibar, and waited
+eleven months before he received the promised articles. As I did not
+expect to be much over that time on my errand altogether, it would be
+ruin, absolute and irremediable, should I be detained at Unyanyembe so
+long a time by my caravan. Pending its arrival, I sought the pleasures
+of the chase. I was but a tyro in hunting, I confess, though I had shot
+a little on the plains of America and Persia; yet I considered myself
+a fair shot, and on game ground, and within a reasonable proximity to
+game, I doubted not but I could bring some to camp.
+
+After a march of a mile through the tall grass of the open, we gained
+the glades between the jungles. Unsuccessful here, after ever so much
+prying into fine hiding-places and lurking corners, I struck a trail
+well traversed by small antelope and hartebeest, which we followed. It
+led me into a jungle, and down a watercourse bisecting it; but, after
+following it for an hour, I lost it, and, in endeavouring to retrace it,
+lost my way. However, my pocket-compass stood me in good stead; and by
+it I steered for the open plain, in the centre of which stood the camp.
+But it was terribly hard work--this of plunging through an African
+jungle, ruinous to clothes, and trying to the cuticle. In order to
+travel quickly, I had donned a pair of flannel pyjamas, and my feet were
+encased in canvas shoes. As might be expected, before I had gone a
+few paces a branch of the acacia horrida--only one of a hundred such
+annoyances--caught the right leg of my pyjamas at the knee, and ripped
+it almost clean off; succeeding which a stumpy kolquall caught me by the
+shoulder, and another rip was the inevitable consequence. A few yards
+farther on, a prickly aloetic plant disfigured by a wide tear the
+other leg of my pyjamas, and almost immediately I tripped against a
+convolvulus strong as ratline, and was made to measure my length on a
+bed of thorns. It was on all fours, like a hound on a scent, that I was
+compelled to travel; my solar topee getting the worse for wear every
+minute; my skin getting more and more wounded; my clothes at each step
+becoming more and more tattered. Besides these discomforts, there was
+a pungent, acrid plant which, apart from its strong odorous emissions,
+struck me smartly on the face, leaving a burning effect similar to
+cayenne; and the atmosphere, pent in by the density of the jungle, was
+hot and stifling, and the perspiration transuded through every pore,
+making my flannel tatters feel as if I had been through a shower. When I
+had finally regained the plain, and could breathe free, I mentally vowed
+that the penetralia of an African jungle should not be visited by me
+again, save under most urgent necessity.
+
+The second and third day passed without any news of Maganga.
+Accordingly, Shaw and Bombay were sent to hurry him up by all means.
+On the fourth morning Shaw and Bombay returned, followed by the
+procrastinating Maganga and his laggard people. Questions only elicited
+an excuse that his men had been too sick, and he had feared to tax their
+strength before they were quite equal to stand the fatigue. Moreover he
+suggested that as they would be compelled to stay one day more at the
+camp, I might push on to Kingaru and camp there, until his arrival.
+Acting upon which suggestion I broke camp and started for Kingaru,
+distant five miles.
+
+On this march the land was more broken, and the caravan first
+encountered jungle, which gave considerable trouble to our cart.
+Pisolitic limestone cropped out in boulders and sheets, and we began
+to imagine ourselves approaching healthy highlands, and as if to give
+confirmation to the thought, to the north and north-west loomed the
+purple cones of Udoe, and topmost of all Dilima Peak, about 1,500 feet
+in height above the sea level. But soon after sinking into a bowl-like
+valley, green with tall corn, the road slightly deviated from north-west
+to west, the country still rolling before us in wavy undulations.
+
+In one of the depressions between these lengthy land-swells stood the
+village of Kingaru, with surroundings significant in their aspect
+of ague and fever. Perhaps the clouds surcharged with rain, and the
+overhanging ridges and their dense forests dulled by the gloom, made the
+place more than usually disagreeable, but my first impressions of the
+sodden hollow, pent in by those dull woods, with the deep gully close by
+containing pools of stagnant water, were by no means agreeable.
+
+Before we could arrange our camp and set the tents up, down poured the
+furious harbinger of the Masika season in torrents sufficient to damp
+the ardor and newborn love for East Africa I had lately manifested.
+However, despite rain, we worked on until our camp was finished and the
+property was safely stored from weather and thieves, and we could regard
+with resignation the raindrops beating the soil into mud of a very
+tenacious kind, and forming lakelets and rivers of our camp-ground.
+
+Towards night, the scene having reached its acme of unpleasantness, the
+rain ceased, and the natives poured into camp from the villages in the
+woods with their vendibles. Foremost among these, as if in duty bound,
+came the village sultan--lord, chief, or head--bearing three measures
+of matama and half a measure of rice, of which he begged, with paternal
+smiles, my acceptance. But under his smiling mask, bleared eyes, and
+wrinkled front was visible the soul of trickery, which was of the
+cunningest kind. Responding under the same mask adopted by this knavish
+elder, I said, "The chief of Kingaru has called me a rich sultan. If I
+am a rich sultan why comes not the chief with a rich present to me, that
+he might get a rich return?" Said he, with another leer of his wrinkled
+visage, "Kingaru is poor, there is no matama in the village." To which
+I replied that since there was no matama in the village I would pay him
+half a shukka, or a yard of cloth, which would be exactly equivalent to
+his present; that if he preferred to call his small basketful a present,
+I should be content to call my yard of cloth a present. With which logic
+he was fain to be satisfied.
+
+April 1st.--To-day the Expedition suffered a loss in the death of the
+grey Arab horse presented by Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar. The
+night previous I had noticed that the horse was suffering. Bearing in
+mind what has been so frequently asserted, namely, that no horses could
+live in the interior of Africa because of the tsetse, I had him opened,
+and the stomach, which I believed to be diseased, examined. Besides much
+undigested matama and grass there were found twenty-five short, thick,
+white worms, sticking like leeches into the coating of the stomach,
+while the intestines were almost alive with the numbers of long white
+worms. I was satisfied that neither man nor beast could long exist with
+such a mass of corrupting life within him.
+
+In order that the dead carcase might not taint the valley, I had it
+buried deep in the ground, about a score of yards from the encampment.
+From such a slight cause ensued a tremendous uproar from Kingaru--chief
+of the village--who, with his brother-chiefs of neighbouring villages,
+numbering in the aggregate two dozen wattled huts, had taken counsel
+upon the best means of mulcting the Musungu of a full doti or two of
+Merikani, and finally had arrived at the conviction that the act of
+burying a dead horse in their soil without "By your leave, sir," was
+a grievous and fineable fault. Affecting great indignation at the
+unpardonable omission, he, Kingaru, concluded to send to the Musungu
+four of his young men to say to him that "since you have buried your
+horse in my ground, it is well; let him remain there; but you must pay
+me two doti of Merikani." For reply the messengers were told to say to
+the chief that I would prefer talking the matter over with himself face
+to face, if he would condescend to visit me in my tent once again. As
+the village was but a stone's throw from our encampment, before many
+minutes had elapsed the wrinkled elder made his appearance at the door
+of my tent with about half the village behind him.
+
+The following dialogue which took place will serve to illustrate the
+tempers of the people with whom I was about to have a year's trading
+intercourse:
+
+White Man.--"Are you the great chief of Kingaru?"
+
+Kingaru.--"Huh-uh. Yes."
+
+W. M.--"The great, great chief?"
+
+Kingaru.--"Huh-uh. Yes."
+
+W. M.--"How many soldiers have you?"
+
+Kingaru.--" Why?"
+
+W. M.--"How many fighting men have you?"
+
+Kingaru.--"None."
+
+W. M.--"Oh! I thought you might have a thousand men with you, by your
+going to fine a strong white man, who has plenty of guns and soldiers,
+two doti for burying a dead horse."
+
+Kingaru (rather perplexed).--"No; I have no soldiers. I have only a few
+young men."
+
+W. M.--"Why do you come and make trouble, then?"
+
+Kingaru.--"It was not I; it was my brothers who said to me, 'Come here,
+come here, Kingaru, see what the white man has done! Has he not taken
+possession of your soil, in that he has put his horse into your ground
+without your permission? Come, go to him and see by what right.'
+Therefore have I come to ask you, who gave you permission to use my soil
+for a burying-ground?"
+
+W. M. "I want no man's permission to do what is right. My horse died;
+had I left him to fester and stink in your valley, sickness would visit
+your village, your water would become unwholesome, and caravans would
+not stop here for trade; for they would say, 'This is an unlucky spot,
+let us go away.' But enough said: I understand you to say that you do
+not want him buried in your ground; the error I have fallen into is
+easily put right. This minute my soldiers shall dig him out again, and
+cover up the soil as it was before; and the horse shall be left where he
+died." (Then shouting to Bombay.) "Ho! Bombay, take soldiers with jembes
+to dig my horse out of the ground, drag him to where he died, and make
+everything ready for a march to-morrow morning."
+
+Kingaru, his voice considerably higher, and his head moving to and fro
+with emotion, cries out, "Akuna, akuna, bana!"--"No, no, master! Let not
+the white man get angry. The horse is dead, and now lies buried; let him
+remain so, since he is already there, and let us be friends again."
+
+The Sheikh of Kingaru being thus brought to his senses, we bid each
+other the friendly "Kwaheri," and I was left alone to ruminate over my
+loss. Barely half an hour had elapsed, it was 9 P.M., the camp was in
+a semi-doze, when I heard deep groans issuing from one of the animals.
+Upon inquiry as to what animal was suffering, I was surprised to hear
+that it was my bay horse. With a bull's-eye lantern, I visited him, and
+perceived that the pain was located in the stomach, but whether it was
+from some poisonous plant he had eaten while out grazing, or from some
+equine disease, I did not know. He discharged copious quantities of
+loose matter, but there was nothing peculiar in its colour. The pain was
+evidently very great, for his struggles were very violent. I was up all
+night, hoping that it was but a temporary effect of some strange and
+noxious plant; but at 6 o'clock the next morning, after a short period
+of great agony, he also died; exactly fifteen hours after his companion.
+When the stomach was opened, it was found that death was caused by the
+internal rupture of a large cancer, which had affected the larger half
+of the coating of his stomach, and had extended an inch or two up the
+larynx. The contents of the stomach and intestines were deluged with the
+yellow viscous efflux from the cancer.
+
+I was thus deprived of both my horses, and that within the short space
+of fifteen hours. With my limited knowledge of veterinary science,
+however, strengthened by the actual and positive proofs obtained by the
+dissection of the two stomachs, I can scarcely state that horses can
+live to reach Unyanyembe, or that they can travel with ease through this
+part of East Africa. But should I have occasion at some future day,
+I should not hesitate to take four horses with me, though I should
+certainly endeavour to ascertain previous to purchase whether they, were
+perfectly sound and healthy, and to those travellers who cherish a good
+horse I would say, "Try one," and be not discouraged by my unfortunate
+experiences.
+
+The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd of April passed, and nothing had we heard or
+seen of the ever-lagging fourth caravan. In the meanwhile the list of
+casualties was being augmented. Besides the loss of this precious time,
+through the perverseness of the chief of the other caravan, and the
+loss of my two horses, a pagazi carrying boat-fixtures improved the
+opportunity, and deserted. Selim was struck down with a severe attack
+of ague and fever, and was soon after followed by the cook, then by the
+assistant cook and tailor, Abdul Kader. Finally, before the third day
+was over, Bombay had rheumatism, Uledi (Grant's old valet) had a swollen
+throat, Zaidi had the flux, Kingaru had the mukunguru; Khamisi, a
+pagazi, suffered from a weakness of the loins; Farjalla had a bilious
+fever; and before night closed Makoviga was very ill. Out of a force of
+twenty-five men one had deserted, and ten were on the sick list, and the
+presentiment that the ill-looking neighbourhood of Kingaru would prove
+calamitous to me was verified.
+
+On the 4th April Maganga and his people appeared, after being heralded
+by musketry-shots and horn-blowing, the usual signs of an approaching
+caravan in this land. His sick men were considerably improved, but they
+required one more day of rest at Kingaru. In the afternoon he came to
+lay siege to my generosity, by giving details of Soor Hadji Palloo's
+heartless cheats upon him; but I informed him, that since I had left
+Bagamoyo, I could no longer be generous; we were now in a land where
+cloth was at a high premium; that I had no more cloth than I should need
+to furnish food for myself and men; that he and his caravan had cost me
+more money and trouble than any three caravans I had, as indeed was the
+case. With this counter-statement he was obliged to be content. But I
+again solved his pecuniary doubts by promising that, if he hurried his
+caravan on to Unyanyembe, he should have no cause of complaint.
+
+The 5th of April saw the fourth caravan vanish for once in our front,
+with a fair promise that, however fast we should follow, we should not
+see them the hither side of Sinbamwenni.
+
+The following morning, in order to rouse my people from the sickened
+torpitude they had lapsed into, I beat an exhilarating alarum on a
+tin pan with an iron ladle, intimating that a sofari was about to be
+undertaken. This had a very good effect, judging from the extraordinary
+alacrity with which it was responded to. Before the sun rose we started.
+The Kingaru villagers were out with the velocity of hawks for any rags
+or refuse left behind us.
+
+The long march to Imbiki, fifteen miles, proved that our protracted stay
+at Kingaru had completely demoralized my soldiers and pagazis. Only
+a few of them had strength enough to reach Imbiki before night. The
+others, attending the laden donkeys, put in an appearance next morning,
+in a lamentable state of mind and body. Khamisi--the pagazi with the
+weak loins--had deserted, taking with him two goats, the property tent,
+and the whole of Uledi's personal wealth, consisting of his visiting
+dish-dasheh--a long shirt of the Arabic pattern, 10 lbs. of beads, and
+a few fine cloths, which Uledi, in a generous fit, had intrusted to
+him, while he carried the pagazi's load, 70 lbs. of Bubu beads. This
+defalcation was not to be overlooked, nor should Khamisi be permitted to
+return without an effort to apprehend him. Accordingly Uledi and Ferajji
+were despatched in pursuit while we rested at Imbiki, in order to give
+the dilapidated soldiers and animals time to recruit.
+
+On the 8th we continued our journey, and arrived at Msuwa. This march
+will be remembered by our caravan as the most fatiguing of all, though
+the distance was but ten miles. It was one continuous jungle, except
+three interjacent glades of narrow limits, which gave us three breathing
+pauses in the dire task of jungle travelling. The odour emitted from
+its fell plants was so rank, so pungently acrid, and the miasma from its
+decayed vegetation so dense, that I expected every moment to see myself
+and men drop down in paroxysms of acute fever. Happily this evil was
+not added to that of loading and unloading the frequently falling packs.
+Seven soldiers to attend seventeen laden donkeys were entirely too small
+a number while passing through a jungle; for while the path is but a
+foot wide, with a wall of thorny plants and creepers bristling on each
+side, and projecting branches darting across it, with knots of spikey
+twigs stiff as spike-nails, ready to catch and hold anything above four
+feet in height, it is but reasonable to suppose that donkeys standing
+four feet high, with loads measuring across from bale to bale four feet,
+would come to grief. This grief was of frequent recurrence here, causing
+us to pause every few minutes for re-arrangements. So often had this
+task to be performed, that the men got perfectly discouraged, and had to
+bespoken to sharply before they set to work. By the time I reached Msuwa
+there was nobody with me and the ten donkeys I drove but Mabruk the
+Little, who, though generally stolid, stood to his work like a man.
+Bombay and Uledi were far behind, with the most jaded donkeys. Shaw
+was in charge of the cart, and his experiences were most bitter, as he
+informed me he had expended a whole vocabulary of stormy abuse known
+to sailors, and a new one which he had invented ex tempore. He did not
+arrive until two o'clock next morning, and was completely worn out.
+
+Another halt was fixed at Msuwa, that we and our animals might
+recuperate. The chief of the village, a white man in everything but
+colour, sent me and mine the fattest broad-tailed sheep of his
+flock, with five measures of matama grain. The mutton was excellent,
+unapproachable. For his timely and needful present I gave him two doti,
+and amused him with an exhibition of the wonderful mechanism of the
+Winchester rifle, and my breechloading revolvers.
+
+He and his people were intelligent enough to comprehend the utility of
+these weapons at an emergency, and illustrated in expressive pantomime
+the powers they possessed against numbers of people armed only with
+spears and bows, by extending their arms with an imaginary gun and
+describing a clear circle. "Verily," said they, "the Wasungu are far
+wiser than the Washensi. What heads they have! What wonderful things
+they make! Look at their tents, their guns, their time-pieces, their
+clothes, and that little rolling thing (the cart) which carries more
+than five men,---que!"
+
+On the 10th, recovered from the excessive strain of the last march, the
+caravan marched out of Msuwa, accompanied by the hospitable villagers
+as far as their stake defence, receiving their unanimous "Kwaheris."
+Outside the village the march promised to be less arduous than between
+Imbiki and Msuwa. After crossing a beautiful little plain intersected
+by a dry gully or mtoni, the route led by a few cultivated fields, where
+the tillers greeted us with one grand unwinking stare, as if fascinated.
+
+Soon after we met one of those sights common in part of the world, to
+wit a chain slave-gang, bound east. The slaves did not appear to be
+in any way down-hearted on the contrary, they seemed imbued with the
+philosophic jollity of the jolly servant of Martin Chuzzlewit. Were it
+not for their chains, it would have been difficult to discover master
+from slave; the physiognomic traits were alike--the mild benignity with
+which we were regarded was equally visible on all faces. The chains were
+ponderous--they might have held elephants captive; but as the slaves
+carried nothing but themselves, their weight could not have been
+insupportable.
+
+The jungle was scant on this march, and though in some places the packs
+met with accidents, they were not such as seriously to retard progress.
+By 10 A.M. we were in camp in the midst of an imposing view of green
+sward and forest domed by a cloudless sky. We had again pitched our camp
+in the wilderness, and, as is the custom of caravans, fired two shots to
+warn any Washensi having grain to sell, that we were willing to trade.
+
+Our next halting-place was Kisemo, distant but eleven miles from Msuwa,
+a village situated in a populous district, having in its vicinity no
+less than five other villages, each fortified by stakes and thorny
+abattis, with as much fierce independence as if their petty lords were
+so many Percys and Douglasses. Each topped a ridge, or a low hummock,
+with an assumption of defiance of the cock-on-its-own-dunghill type.
+Between these humble eminences and low ridges of land wind narrow vales
+which are favored with the cultivation of matama and Indian corn. Behind
+the village flows the Ungerengeri River, an impetuous stream during the
+Masika season, capable of overflowing its steep banks, but in the dry
+season it subsides into its proper status, which is that of a small
+stream of very clear sweet water. Its course from Kisemo is south-west,
+then easterly; it is the main feeder of the Kingani River.
+
+The belles of Kisemo are noted for their vanity in brass wire, which is
+wound in spiral rings round their wrists and ankles, and the varieties
+of style which their hispid heads exhibit; while their poor lords,
+obliged to be contented with dingy torn clouts and split ears, show what
+wide sway Asmodeus holds over this terrestrial sphere--for it must have
+been an unhappy time when the hard-besieged husbands finally gave
+way before their spouses. Besides these brassy ornaments on their
+extremities, and the various hair-dressing styles, the women of Kisemo
+frequently wear lengthy necklaces, which run in rivers of colours down
+their bodies.
+
+A more comical picture is seldom presented than that of one of these
+highly-dressed females engaged in the homely and necessary task of
+grinding corn for herself and family. The grinding apparatus consists
+of two portions: one, a thick pole of hard wood about six feet long,
+answering for a pestle; the other, a capacious wooden mortar, three feet
+in height.
+
+While engaged in setting his tent, Shaw was obliged to move a small flat
+stone, to drive a peg into the ground. The village chief, who saw him do
+it, rushed up in a breathless fashion, and replaced the stone instantly,
+then stood on it in an impressive manner, indicative of the great
+importance attached to that stone and location. Bombay, seeing Shaw
+standing in silent wonder at the act, volunteered to ask the chief what
+was the matter. The Sheikh solemnly answered, with a finger pointing
+downward, "Uganga!" Whereupon I implored him to let me see what was
+under the stone. With a graciousness quite affecting he complied. My
+curiosity was gratified with the sight of a small whittled stick, which
+pinned fast to the ground an insect, the cause of a miscarriage to a
+young female of the village.
+
+During the afternoon, Uledi and Ferajji, who had been despatched after
+the truant Khamisi, returned with him and all the missing articles.
+Khamisi, soon after leaving the road and plunging into the jungle,
+where he was mentally triumphing in his booty, was met by some of the
+plundering Washensi, who are always on the qui vive for stragglers, and
+unceremoniously taken to their village in the woods, and bound to a tree
+preparatory, to being killed. Khamisi said that he asked them why they
+tied him up, to which they answered, that they were about to kill him,
+because he was a Mgwana, whom they were accustomed to kill as soon as
+they were caught. But Uledi and Ferajji shortly after coming upon the
+scene, both well armed, put an end to the debates upon Khamisi's fate,
+by claiming him as an absconding pagazi from the Musungu's camp, as well
+as all the articles he possessed at the time of capture. The robbers did
+not dispute the claim for the pagazi, goats, tent, or any other
+valuable found with him, but intimated that they deserved a reward for
+apprehending him. The demand being considered just, a reward to the
+extent of two doti and a fundo, or ten necklaces of beads, was given.
+
+Khamisi, for his desertion and attempted robbery, could not be pardoned
+without first suffering punishment. He had asked at Bagamoyo, before
+enlisting in my service, an advance of $5 in money, and had received it,
+and a load of Bubu beads, no heavier than a pagazis load, had been given
+him to carry; he had, therefore, no excuse for desertion. Lest I should
+overstep prudence, however, in punishing him, I convened a court of
+eight pagazis and four soldiers to sit in judgment, and asked them
+to give me their decision as to what should be done. Their unanimous
+verdict was that he was guilty of a crime almost unknown among the
+Wanyamwezi pagazis, and as it was likely to give bad repute to the
+Wanyamwezi carriers, they therefore sentenced him to be flogged with the
+"Great Master's" donkey whip, which was accordingly carried out, to poor
+Khamisi's crying sorrow.
+
+On the 12th the caravan reached Mussoudi, on the Ungerengeri river.
+Happily for our patient donkeys this march was free from all the
+annoying troubles of the jungle. Happily for ourselves also, for we had
+no more the care of the packs and the anxiety about arriving at camp
+before night. The packs once put firmly on the backs of our good
+donkeys, they marched into camp--the road being excellent--without a
+single displacement or cause for one impatient word, soon after leaving
+Kisemo. A beautiful prospect, glorious in its wild nature, fragrant with
+its numerous flowers and variety of sweetly-smelling shrubs, among which
+I recognised the wild sage, the indigo plant, &c., terminated only
+at the foot of Kira Peak and sister cones, which mark the boundaries
+between Udoe and Ukami, yet distant twenty miles. Those distant
+mountains formed a not unfit background to this magnificent picture
+of open plain, forest patches, and sloping lawns--there was enough of
+picturesqueness and sublimity in the blue mountains to render it one
+complete whole. Suppose a Byron saw some of these scenes, he would be
+inclined to poetize in this manner:
+
+Morn dawns, and with it stern Udoe's hills, Dark Urrugum's rocks, and
+Kira's peak, Robed half in mist, bedewed with various rills, Arrayed in
+many a dun and purple streak.
+
+When drawing near the valley of Ungerengeri, granite knobs and
+protuberances of dazzling quartz showed their heads above the reddish
+soil. Descending the ridge where these rocks were prominent, we found
+ourselves in the sable loam deposit of the Ungerengeri, and in the midst
+of teeming fields of sugar-cane and matama, Indian corn, muhogo,
+and gardens of curry, egg, and cucumber plants. On the banks of the
+Ungerengeri flourished the banana, and overtopping it by seventy feet
+and more, shot up the stately mparamusi, the rival in beauty of the
+Persian chenar and Abyssinian plane. Its trunk is straight and comely
+enough for the mainmast of a first, class frigate, while its expanding
+crown of leafage is distinguished from all others by its density and
+vivid greenness. There were a score of varieties of the larger kind of
+trees, whose far-extending branches embraced across the narrow but swift
+river. The depressions of the valley and the immediate neighbourhood of
+the river were choked with young forests of tiger-grass and stiff reeds.
+
+Mussoudi is situated on a higher elevation than the average level of the
+village, and consequently looks down upon its neighbours, which number a
+hundred and more. It is the western extremity of Ukwere. On the western
+bank of the Ungerengeri the territory of the Wakami commences. We had to
+halt one day at Mussoudi because the poverty of the people prevented us
+from procuring the needful amount of grain. The cause of this scantiness
+in such a fertile and populous valley was, that the numerous caravans
+which had preceded us had drawn heavily for their stores for the
+upmarches.
+
+On the 14th we crossed the Ungerengeri, which here flows southerly to
+the southern extremity of the valley, where it bends easterly as far as
+Kisemo. After crossing the river here, fordable at all times and only
+twenty yards in breadth, we had another mile of the valley with its
+excessively moist soil and rank growth of grass. It then ascended into
+a higher elevation, and led through a forest of mparamusi, tamarind,
+tamarisk, acacia, and the blooming mimosa. This ascent was continued for
+two hours, when we stood upon the spine of the largest ridge, where we
+could obtain free views of the wooded plain below and the distant ridges
+of Kisemo, which we had but lately left. A descent of a few hundred feet
+terminated in a deep but dry mtoni with a sandy bed, on the other side
+of which we had to regain the elevation we had lost, and a similar
+country opened into view until we found a newly-made boma with
+well-built huts of grass rear a pool of water, which we at once occupied
+as a halting-place for the night. The cart gave us considerable trouble;
+not even our strongest donkey, though it carried with ease on its back
+196 lbs., could draw the cart with a load of only 225 lbs. weight.
+
+Early on the morning of the 15th we broke camp and started for Mikeseh.
+By 8.30 A.M. we were ascending the southern face of the Kira Peak. When
+we had gained the height of two hundred feet above the level of the
+surrounding country, we were gratified with a magnificent view of a land
+whose soil knows no Sabbath.
+
+After travelling the spine of a ridge abutting against the southern
+slope of Kira we again descended into the little valley of Kiwrima,
+the first settlement we meet in Udoe, where there is always an abundant
+supply of water. Two miles west of Kiwrima is Mikiseh.
+
+On the 16th we reached Ulagalla after a few hours' march. Ulagalla is
+the name of a district, or a portion of a district, lying between the
+mountains of Uruguru, which bound it southerly, and the mountains of
+Udoe, lying northerly and parallel with them, and but ten miles apart.
+The principal part of the basin thus formed is called Ulagalla.
+
+Muhalleh is the next settlement, and here we found ourselves in
+the territory of the Waseguhha. On this march we were hemmed in by
+mountains--on our left by those of Uruguru, on our right by those of
+Udoe and Useguhha--a most agreeable and welcome change to us after
+the long miles of monotonous level we had hitherto seen. When tired of
+looking into the depths of the forest that still ran on either side
+of the road, we had but to look up to the mountain's base, to note its
+strange trees, its plants and vari-coloured flowers, we had but to raise
+our heads to vary this pleasant occupation by observing the lengthy and
+sinuous spine of the mountains, and mentally report upon their outline,
+their spurs, their projections and ravines, their bulging rocks and deep
+clefts, and, above all, the dark green woods clothing them from summit
+to base. And when our attention was not required for the mundane task
+of regarding the donkeys' packs, or the pace of the cautious-stepping
+pagazis, it was gratifying to watch the vapours play about the mountain
+summits--to see them fold into fleecy crowns and fantastic clusters,
+dissolve, gather together into a pall that threatened rain, and sail
+away again before the brightening sun.
+
+At Muhalleh was the fourth caravan under Maganga with three more sick
+men, who turned with eager eyes to myself, "the dispenser of medicine,"
+as I approached. Salvos of small arms greeted me, and a present of rice
+and ears of Indian corn for roasting were awaiting my acceptance; but,
+as I told Maganga, I would have preferred to hear that his party were
+eight or ten marches ahead. At this camp, also, we met Salim bin Rashid,
+bound eastward, with a huge caravan carrying three hundred ivory tusks.
+This good Arab, besides welcoming the new comer with a present of rice,
+gave me news of Livingstone. He had met the old traveller at Ujiji, had
+lived in the next but to him for two weeks, described him as looking
+old, with long grey moustaches and beard, just recovered from severe
+illness, looking very wan; when fully recovered Livingstone intended to
+visit a country called Manyema by way of Marungu.
+
+The valley of the Ungerengeri with Muhalleh exhibits wonderful
+fertility. Its crops of matama were of the tallest, and its Indian
+corn would rival the best crops ever seen in the Arkansas bottoms. The
+numerous mountain-fed streams rendered the great depth of loam very
+sloppy, in consequence of which several accidents occurred before we
+reached the camp, such as wetting cloth, mildewing tea, watering sugar,
+and rusting tools; but prompt attention to these necessary things saved
+us from considerable loss.
+
+There was a slight difference noticed in the demeanour and bearing of
+the Waseguhha compared with the Wadoe, Wakami, and Wakwere heretofore
+seen. There was none of that civility we had been until now pleased to
+note: their express desire to barter was accompanied with insolent
+hints that we ought to take their produce at their own prices. If
+we remonstrated they became angry; retorting fiercely, impatient of
+opposition, they flew into a passion, and were glib in threats. This
+strange conduct, so opposite to that of the calm and gentle Wakwere,
+may be excellently illustrated by comparing the manner of the hot-headed
+Greek with that of the cool and collected German. Necessity compelled us
+to purchase eatables of them, and, to the credit of the country and its
+productions, be it said, their honey had the peculiar flavour of that of
+famed Hymettus.
+
+Following the latitudinal valley of the Ungerengeri, within two hours on
+the following morning we passed close under the wall of the capital of
+Useguhha--Simbamwenni. The first view of the walled town at the
+western foot of the Uruguru mountains, with its fine valley abundantly
+beautiful, watered by two rivers, and several pellucid streams of water
+distilled by the dew and cloud-enriched heights around, was one that
+we did not anticipate to meet in Eastern Africa. In Mazanderan, Persia,
+such a scene would have answered our expectations, but here it was
+totally unexpected. The town may contain a population of 3,000, having
+about 1,000 houses; being so densely crowded, perhaps 5,000 would more
+closely approximate. The houses in the town are eminently African, but
+of the best type of construction. The fortifications are on an Arabic
+Persic model--combining Arab neatness with Persian plan. Through a ride
+of 950 miles in Persia I never met a town outside of the great cities
+better fortified than Simbamwenni. In Persia the fortifications were
+of mud, even those of Kasvin, Teheran, Ispahan, and Shiraz; those
+of Simbamwenni are of stone, pierced with two rows of loopholes for
+musketry. The area of the town is about half a square mile, its plan
+being quadrangular. Well-built towers of stone guard each corner; four
+gates, one facing each cardinal point, and set half way between the
+several towers, permit ingress and egress for its inhabitants. The gates
+are closed with solid square doors made of African teak, and carved
+with the infinitesimally fine and complicated devices of the Arabs, from
+which I suspect that the doors were made either at Zanzibar or on the
+coast, and conveyed to Simbamwenni plank by plank; yet as there is much
+communication between Bagamoyo and Simbamwenni, it is just possible that
+native artisans are the authors of this ornate workmanship, as several
+doors chiselled and carved in the same manner, though not quite so
+elaborately, were visible in the largest houses. The palace of the
+Sultan is after the style of those on the coast, with long sloping roof,
+wide eaves, and veranda in front.
+
+The Sultana is the eldest daughter of the famous Kisabengo, a name
+infamous throughout the neighbouring countries of Udoe, Ukami, Ukwere,
+Kingaru, Ukwenni, and Kiranga-Wanna, for his kidnapping propensities.
+Kisabengo was another Theodore on a small scale. Sprung from humble
+ancestry, he acquired distinction for his personal strength, his powers
+of harangue, and his amusing and versatile address, by which he gained
+great ascendency over fugitive slaves, and was chosen a leader among
+them. Fleeing from justice, which awaited him at the hands of the
+Zanzibar Sultan, he arrived in Ukami, which extended at that time from
+Ukwere to Usagara, and here he commenced a career of conquest, the
+result of which was the cession by the Wakami of an immense tract of
+fertile country, in the valley of the Ungerengeri. On its most desirable
+site, with the river flowing close under the walls, he built his
+capital, and called it Simbamwenni, which means "The Lion," or the
+strongest, City. In old age the successful robber and kidnapper
+changed his name of Kisabengo, which had gained such a notoriety, to
+Simbamwenni, after his town; and when dying, after desiring that his
+eldest daughter should succeed him, he bestowed the name of the town
+upon her also, which name of Simbamwenni the Sultana now retains and is
+known by.
+
+While crossing a rapid stream, which, as I said before flowed close
+to the walls, the inhabitants of Simbamwenni had a fine chance of
+gratifying their curiosity of seeing the "Great Musungu," whose several
+caravans had preceded him, and who unpardonably, because unlicensed, had
+spread a report of his great wealth and power. I was thus the object of
+a universal stare. At one time on the banks there were considerably over
+a thousand natives going through the several tenses and moods of the
+verb "to stare," or exhibiting every phase of the substantive, viz.--the
+stare peremptory, insolent, sly, cunning, modest, and casual. The
+warriors of the Sultana, holding in one hand the spear, the bow, and
+sheaf or musket, embraced with the other their respective friends, like
+so many models of Nisus and Euryalus, Theseus and Pirithous, Damon and
+Pythias, or Achilles and Patroclus, to whom they confidentially related
+their divers opinions upon my dress and colour. The words "Musungu kuba"
+had as much charm for these people as the music of the Pied Piper had
+for the rats of Hamelin, since they served to draw from within the walls
+across their stream so large a portion of the population; and when I
+continued the journey to the Ungerengeri, distant four miles, I feared
+that the Hamelin catastrophe might have to be repeated before I could
+rid myself of them. But fortunately for my peace of mind, they finally
+proved vincible under the hot sun, and the distance we had to go to
+camp.
+
+As we were obliged to overhaul the luggage, and repair saddles, as well
+as to doctor a few of the animals, whose backs had by this time become
+very sore, I determined to halt here two days. Provisions were very
+plentiful also at Simbamwenni, though comparatively dear.
+
+On the second day I was, for the first time, made aware that my
+acclimatization in the ague-breeding swamps of Arkansas was powerless
+against the mukunguru of East Africa. The premonitory symptoms of the
+African type were felt in my system at 10 A.M. First, general lassitude
+prevailed, with a disposition to drowsiness; secondly, came the spinal
+ache which, commencing from the loins, ascended the vertebrae, and
+extended around the ribs, until it reached the shoulders, where it
+settled into a weary pain; thirdly came a chilliness over the whole
+body, which was quickly followed by a heavy head, swimming eyes, and
+throbbing temples, with vague vision, which distorted and transformed
+all objects of sight. This lasted until 10 P.M., and the mukunguru left
+me, much prostrated in strength.
+
+The remedy, applied for three mornings in succession after the attack,
+was such as my experience in Arkansas had taught me was the most
+powerful corrective, viz., a quantum of fifteen grains of quinine,
+taken in three doses of five grains each, every other hour from dawn to
+meridian--the first dose to be taken immediately after the first effect
+of the purging medicine taken at bedtime the night previous. I may add
+that this treatment was perfectly successful in my case, and in all
+others which occurred in my camp. After the mukunguru had declared
+itself, there was no fear, with such a treatment of it, of a second
+attack, until at least some days afterwards.
+
+On the third day the camp was visited by the ambassadors of Her Highness
+the Sultana of Simbamwenni, who came as her representatives to receive
+the tribute which she regards herself as powerful enough to enforce. But
+they, as well as Madame Simbamwenni, were informed, that as we knew it
+was their custom to charge owners of caravans but one tribute, and as
+they remembered the Musungu (Farquhar) had paid already, it was not fair
+that I should have to pay again. The ambassadors replied with a "Ngema"
+(very well), and promised to carry my answer back to their mistress.
+Though it was by no means "very well" in fact, as it will be seen in
+a subsequent chapter how the female Simbamwenni took advantage of an
+adverse fortune which befell me to pay herself. With this I close the
+chapter of incidents experienced during our transit across the maritime
+region.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI. -- TO UGOGO.
+
+     A valley of despond, and hot-bed of malaria.--Myriads of
+     vermin.--The Makata swamp.--A sorrowful experience catching
+     a deserter.--A far-embracing prospect.--Illness of William
+     Farquhar.-Lake Ugombo.--A land of promise.--The great
+     Kisesa.--The plague of earwigs.
+
+
+The distance from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni we found to be 119 miles,
+and was accomplished in fourteen marches. But these marches, owing to
+difficulties arising from the Masika season, and more especially to the
+lagging of the fourth caravan under Maganga, extended to twenty-nine
+days, thus rendering our progress very slow indeed--but a little more
+than four miles a-day. I infer, from what I have seen of the travelling,
+that had I not been encumbered by the sick Wanyamwezi porters, I could
+have accomplished the distance in sixteen days. For it was not the
+donkeys that proved recreant to my confidence; they, poor animals,
+carrying a weight of 150 lbs. each, arrived at Simbamwenni in first-rate
+order; but it was Maganga, composed of greed and laziness, and his
+weakly-bodied tribe, who were ever falling sick. In dry weather the
+number of marches might have been much reduced. Of the half-dozen
+of Arabs or so who preceded this Expedition along this route, two
+accomplished the entire distance in eight days. From the brief
+descriptions given of the country, as it day by day expanded to our
+view, enough may be gleaned to give readers a fair idea of it. The
+elevation of Simbamwenni cannot be much over 1,000 feet above the level,
+the rise of the land having been gradual. It being the rainy season,
+about which so many ominous statements were doled out to us by those
+ignorant of the character of the country, we naturally saw it under its
+worst aspect; but, even in this adverse phase of it, with all its depth
+of black mud, its excessive dew, its dripping and chill grass, its
+density of rank jungle, and its fevers, I look back upon the scene with
+pleasure, for the wealth and prosperity it promises to some civilized
+nation, which in some future time will come and take possession of it. A
+railroad from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni might be constructed with as
+much ease and rapidity as, and at far less cost than the Union Pacific
+Railway, whose rapid strides day by day towards completion the world
+heard of and admired. A residence in this part of Africa, after a
+thorough system of drainage had been carried out, would not be attended
+with more discomfort than generally follows upon the occupation of new
+land. The temperature at this season during the day never exceeded 85
+degrees Fahrenheit. The nights were pleasant--too cold without a pair
+of blankets for covering; and, as far as Simbamwenni, they were without
+that pest which is so dreadful on the Nebraska and Kansas prairies,
+the mosquito. The only annoyances I know of that would tell hard on the
+settler is the determined ferocity of the mabungu, or horse-fly; the
+chufwa, &c., already described, which, until the dense forests and
+jungles were cleared, would be certain to render the keeping of domestic
+cattle unremunerative.
+
+Contrary to expectation the Expedition was not able to start at the end
+of two days; the third and the fourth days were passed miserably enough
+in the desponding valley of Ungerengeri. This river, small as it is in
+the dry seasons, becomes of considerable volume and power during the
+Masika, as we experienced to our sorrow. It serves as a drain to a score
+of peaks and two long ranges of mountains; winding along their base, it
+is the recipient of the cascades seen flashing during the few intervals
+of sunlight, of all the nullahs and ravines which render the lengthy
+frontage of the mountain slopes so rugged and irregular, until it glides
+into the valley of Simbamwenni a formidable body of water, opposing a
+serious obstacle to caravans without means to build bridges; added to
+which was an incessant downfall of rain--such a rain as shuts people
+in-doors and renders them miserable and unamiable--a real London
+rain--an eternal drizzle accompanied with mist and fog. When the sun
+shone it appeared but a pale image of itself, and old pagazis, wise in
+their traditions as old whaling captains, shook their heads ominously at
+the dull spectre, and declared it was doubtful if the rain would cease
+for three weeks yet.
+
+The site of the caravan camp on the hither side of the Ungerengeri was a
+hot-bed of malaria, unpleasant to witness--an abomination to memory.
+The filth of generations of pagazis had gathered innumerable hosts
+of creeping things. Armies of black, white, and red ants infest the
+stricken soil; centipedes, like worms, of every hue, clamber over shrubs
+and plants; hanging to the undergrowth are the honey-combed nests
+of yellow-headed wasps with stings as harmful as scorpions; enormous
+beetles, as large as full-grown mice, roll dunghills over the ground; of
+all sorts, shapes, sizes, and hues are the myriad-fold vermin with which
+the ground teems; in short, the richest entomological collection could
+not vie in variety and numbers with the species which the four walls of
+my tent enclosed from morning until night.
+
+On the fifth morning, or the 23rd April, the rain gave us a few hours'
+respite, during which we managed to wade through the Stygian quagmire
+reeking with noisomeness to the inundated river-bank. The soldiers
+commenced at 5 A.M. to convey the baggage across from bank to bank over
+a bridge which was the most rustic of the rustic kind. Only an ignorant
+African would have been satisfied with its small utility as a means to
+cross a deep and rapid body of water. Even for light-footed Wanyamwezi
+pagazis it was anything but comfortable to traverse. Only a professional
+tight-rope performer could have carried a load across with ease. To
+travel over an African bridge requires, first, a long leap from land to
+the limb of a tree (which may or may not be covered by water), followed
+by a long jump ashore. With 70 lbs. weight on his back, the carrier
+finds it difficult enough. Sometimes he is assisted by ropes
+extemporized from the long convolvuli which hang from almost every tree,
+but not always, these being deemed superfluities by the Washensi.
+
+Fortunately the baggage was transferred without a single accident, and
+though the torrent was strong, the donkeys were dragged through the
+flood by vigorous efforts and much objurgation without a casualty.
+This performance of crossing the Ungerengeri occupied fully five hours,
+though energy, abuse, and fury enough were expended for an army.
+
+Reloading and wringing our clothes dry, we set out from the horrible
+neighbourhood of the river, with its reek and filth, in a northerly
+direction, following a road which led up to easy and level ground. Two
+obtruding hills were thus avoided on our left, and after passing them we
+had shut out the view of the hateful valley.
+
+I always found myself more comfortable and lighthearted while travelling
+than when chafing and fretting in camp at delays which no effort could
+avoid, and consequently I fear that some things, while on a march, may
+be tinted somewhat stronger than their appearance or merit may properly
+warrant. But I thought that the view opening before us was much more
+agreeable than the valley of Simbamwenni with all its indescribable
+fertility. It was a series of glades opening one after another between
+forest clumps of young trees, hemmed in distantly by isolated peaks
+and scattered mountains. Now and again, as we crested low eminences
+we caught sight of the blue Usagara mountains, bounding the horizon
+westerly and northerly, and looked down upon a vast expanse of plain
+which lay between.
+
+At the foot of the lengthy slope, well-watered by bubbling springs and
+mountain rills, we found a comfortable khambi with well-made huts, which
+the natives call Simbo. It lies just two hours or five miles north-west
+of the Ungerengeri crossing. The ground is rocky, composed principally
+of quartzose detritus swept down by the constant streams. In the
+neighbourhood of these grow bamboo, the thickest of which was about two
+and a half inches in diameter; the "myombo," a very shapely tree, with
+a clean trunk like an ash, the "imbite," with large, fleshy leaves like
+the "mtamba," sycamore, plum-tree, the "ugaza," ortamarisk, and the
+"mgungu," a tree containing several wide branches with small leaves
+clustered together in a clump, and the silk-cotton tree.
+
+Though there are no villages or settlements in view of Simbo Khambi,
+there are several clustered within the mountain folds, inhabited by
+Waseguhha somewhat prone to dishonest acts and murder.
+
+The long broad plain visible from the eminences crossed between the
+Ungerengeri and Simbo was now before us, and became known to sorrowful
+memory subsequently, as the Makata Valley. The initial march was from
+Simbo, its terminus at Rehenneko, at the base of the Usagara mountains,
+six marches distant. The valley commences with broad undulations,
+covered with young forests of bamboo, which grow thickly along the
+streams, the dwarf fan-palm, the stately Palmyra, and the mgungu. These
+undulations soon become broken by gullies containing water, nourishing
+dense crops of cane reeds and broad-bladed grass, and, emerging from
+this district, wide savannah covered with tall grass open into view,
+with an isolated tree here and there agreeably breaking the monotony of
+the scene. The Makata is a wilderness containing but one village of the
+Waseguhha throughout its broad expanse. Venison, consequently, abounds
+within the forest clumps, and the kudu, hartebeest, antelope, and zebra
+may be seen at early dawn emerging into the open savannahs to feed. At
+night, the cyn-hyaena prowls about with its hideous clamour seeking for
+sleeping prey, man or beast.
+
+The slushy mire of the savannahs rendered marching a work of great
+difficulty; its tenacious hold of the feet told terribly on men
+and animals. A ten-mile march required ten hours, we were therefore
+compelled to camp in the middle of this wilderness, and construct a new
+khambi, a measure which was afterwards adopted by half a dozen caravans.
+
+The cart did not arrive until nearly midnight, and with it, besides
+three or four broken-down pagazis, came Bombay with the dolorous tale,
+that having put his load--consisting of the property tent, one large
+American axe, his two uniform coats, his shirts, beads and cloth,
+powder, pistol, and hatchet--on the ground, to go and assist the cart
+out of a quagmire, he had returned to the place where he had left it
+and could not find it, that he believed that some thieving Washensi, who
+always lurk in the rear of caravans to pick up stragglers, had decamped
+with it. Which dismal tale told me at black midnight was not received
+at all graciously, but rather with most wrathful words, all of which
+the penitent captain received as his proper due. Working myself into a
+fury, I enumerated his sins to him; he had lost a goat at Muhalleh, he
+had permitted Khamisi to desert with valuable property at Imbiki; he had
+frequently shown culpable negligence in not looking after the donkeys,
+permitting them to be tied up at night without seeing that they had
+water, and in the mornings, when about to march, he preferred to sleep
+until 7 o'clock, rather than wake up early and saddle the donkeys, that
+we might start at 6 o'clock; he had shown of late great love for the
+fire, cowering like a bloodless man before it, torpid and apathetic; he
+had now lost the property-tent in the middle of the Masika season, by
+which carelessness the cloth bales would rot and become valueless; he
+had lost the axe which I should want at Ujiji to construct my boat; and
+finally, he had lost a pistol and hatchet, and a flaskful of the best
+powder. Considering all these things, how utterly incompetent he was
+to be captain, I would degrade him from his office and appoint Mabruki
+Burton instead. Uledi, also, following the example of Bombay, instead of
+being second captain, should give no orders to any soldiers in future,
+but should himself obey those given by Mabruki--the said Mabruki being
+worth a dozen Bombays, and two dozen Uledis; and so he was dismissed
+with orders to return at daylight to find the tent, axe, pistol, powder,
+and hatchet.
+
+The next morning the caravan, thoroughly fatigued with the last day's
+exertions, was obliged to halt. Bombay was despatched after the
+lost goods; Kingaru, Mabruki the Great, and Mabruki the Little were
+despatched to bring back three doti-worth of grain, on which we were to
+subsist in the wilderness.
+
+Three days passed away and we were still at camp, awaiting, with what
+patience we possessed, the return of the soldiers. In the meantime
+provisions ran very low, no game could be procured, the birds were so
+wild. Two days shooting procured but two potfuls of birds, consisting
+of grouse, quail, and pigeons. Bombay returned unsuccessfully from his
+search after the missing property, and suffered deep disgrace.
+
+On the fourth day I despatched Shaw with two more soldiers, to see what
+had become of Kingaru and the two Mabrukis. Towards night he returned
+completely prostrated, with a violent attack of the mukunguru, or ague;
+but bringing the missing soldiers, who were thus left to report for
+themselves.
+
+With most thankful hearts did we quit our camp, where so much anxiety
+of mind and fretfulness had been suffered, not heeding a furious rain,
+which, after drenching us all night, might have somewhat damped our
+ardor for the march under other circumstances. The road for the first
+mile led over reddish ground, and was drained by gentle slopes falling
+east and west; but, leaving the cover of the friendly woods, on whose
+eastern margin we had been delayed so long, we emerged into one of the
+savannahs, whose soil during the rain is as soft as slush and tenacious
+as thick mortar, where we were all threatened with the fate of the
+famous Arkansas traveller, who had sunk so low in one of the many
+quagmires in Arkansas county, that nothing but his tall "stove-pipe" hat
+was left visible.
+
+Shaw was sick, and the whole duty of driving the foundering caravan
+devolved upon myself. The Wanyamwezi donkeys stuck in the mire as if
+they were rooted to it. As fast as one was flogged from his stubborn
+position, prone to the depths fell another, giving me a Sisyphean
+labour, which was maddening trader pelting rain, assisted by such men
+as Bombay and Uledi, who could not for a whole skin's sake stomach the
+storm and mire. Two hours of such a task enabled me to drag my caravan
+over a savannah one mile and a half broad; and barely had I finished
+congratulating myself over my success before I was halted by a deep
+ditch, which, filled with rain-water from the inundated savannahs, had
+become a considerable stream, breast-deep, flowing swiftly into the
+Makata. Donkeys had to be unloaded, led through a torrent, and loaded
+again on the other bank--an operation which consumed a full hour.
+
+Presently, after straggling through a wood clump, barring our progress
+was another stream, swollen into a river. The bridge being swept away,
+we were obliged to swim and float our baggage over, which delayed us
+two hours more. Leaving this second river-bank, we splashed, waded,
+occasionally half-swimming, and reeled through mire, water-dripping
+grass and matama stalks, along the left bank of the Makata proper, until
+farther progress was effectually prevented for that day by a deep bend
+of the river, which we should be obliged to cross the next day.
+
+Though but six miles were traversed during that miserable day, the march
+occupied ten hours.
+
+Half dead with fatigue, I yet could feel thankful that it was not
+accompanied by fever, which it seemed a miracle to avoid; for if ever a
+district was cursed with the ague, the Makata wilderness ranks foremost
+of those afflicted. Surely the sight of the dripping woods enveloped
+in opaque mist, of the inundated country with lengthy swathes of
+tiger-grass laid low by the turbid flood, of mounds of decaying trees
+and canes, of the swollen river and the weeping sky, was enough to
+engender the mukunguru! The well-used khambi, and the heaps of filth
+surrounding it, were enough to create a cholera!
+
+The Makata, a river whose breadth during the dry season is but forty
+feet, in the Masika season assumes the breadth, depth, and force of an
+important river. Should it happen to be an unusually rainy season, it
+inundates the great plain which stretches on either side, and converts
+it into a great lake. It is the main feeder of the Wami river, which
+empties into the sea between the ports of Saadani and Whinde. About ten
+miles north-east of the Makata crossing, the Great Makata, the Little
+Makata, a nameless creek, and the Rudewa river unite; and the river thus
+formed becomes known as the Wami. Throughout Usagara the Wami is known
+as the Mukondokwa. Three of these streams take their rise from the
+crescent-like Usagara range, which bounds the Makata plain south and
+south-westerly; while the Rudewa rises in the northern horn of the same
+range.
+
+So swift was the flow of the Makata, and so much did its unsteady
+bridge, half buried in the water, imperil the safety of the property,
+that its transfer from bank to bank occupied fully five hours. No sooner
+had we landed every article on the other side, undamaged by the water,
+than the rain poured down in torrents that drenched them all, as if they
+had been dragged through the river. To proceed through the swamp which
+an hour's rain had formed was utterly out of the question. We were
+accordingly compelled to camp in a place where every hour furnished its
+quota of annoyance. One of the Wangwana soldiers engaged at Bagamoyo,
+named Kingaru, improved an opportunity to desert with another Mgwana's
+kit. My two detectives, Uledi (Grant's valet), and Sarmean, were
+immediately despatched in pursuit, both being armed with American
+breech-loaders. They went about their task with an adroitness and
+celerity which augured well for their success. In an hour they returned
+with the runaway, having found him hidden in the house of a Mseguhha
+chief called Kigondo, who lived about a mile from the eastern bank of
+the river, and who had accompanied Uledi and Sarmean to receive his
+reward, and render an account of the incident.
+
+Kigondo said, when he had been seated, "I saw this man carrying a
+bundle, and running hard, by which I knew that he was deserting you. We
+(my wife and 1) were sitting in our little watch-hut, watching our corn;
+and, as the road runs close by, this man was obliged to come close to
+us. We called to him when he was near, saying, 'Master, where are you
+going so fast? Are you deserting the Musungu, for we know you belong to
+him, since you bought from us yesterday two doti worth of meat?' 'Yes,'
+said he, 'I am running away; I want to get to Simbamwenni. If you will
+take me there, I will give you a doti.' We said to him then, 'Come into
+our house, and we will talk it over quietly. When he was in our house
+in an inner room, we locked him up, and went out again to the watch; but
+leaving word with the women to look out for him. We knew that, if you
+wanted him, you would send askari (soldiers) after him. We had but
+lit our pipes when we saw two men armed with short guns, and having no
+loads, coming along the road, looking now and then on the ground, as
+if they were looking at footmarks. We knew them to be the men we were
+expecting; so we hailed them, and said, 'Masters, what are ye looking
+for?' \ They said, 'We are looking for a man who has deserted our
+master. Here are his footsteps. If you have been long in your hut you
+must have seen him, Can you tell us where he is?' We said, 'yes; he is
+in our house. If you will come with us, we will give him up to you; but
+your master must give us something for catching him.'"
+
+As Kigondo had promised to deliver Kingaru up, there remained nothing
+further to do for Uledi and Sarmean but to take charge of their
+prisoner, and bring him and his captors to my camp on the western bank
+of the Makata. Kingaru received two dozen lashes, and was chained; his
+captor a doti, besides five khete of red coral beads for his wife.
+
+That down-pour of rain which visited us the day we crossed the Makata
+proved the last of the Masika season. As the first rainfall which we had
+experienced occurred on the 23rd March, and the last on the 30th April,
+its duration was thirty-nine days. The seers of Bagamoyo had delivered
+their vaticinations concerning this same Masika with solemnity. "For
+forty days," said they, "rain would fall incessantly;" whereas we had
+but experienced eighteen days' rain. Nevertheless, we were glad that it
+was over, for we were tired of stopping day after day to dry the bales
+and grease the tools and ironware, and of seeing all things of cloth and
+leather rot visibly before our eyes.
+
+The 1st of May found us struggling through the mire and water of the
+Makata with a caravan bodily sick, from the exertion and fatigue of
+crossing so many rivers and wading through marshes. Shaw was still
+suffering from his first mukunguru; Zaidi, a soldier, was critically
+ill with the small-pox; the kichuma-chuma, "little irons," had hold
+of Bombay across the chest, rendering him the most useless of the
+unserviceables; Mabruk Saleem, a youth of lusty frame, following the
+example of Bombay, laid himself down on the marshy ground, professing
+his total inability to breast the Makata swamp; Abdul Kader, the Hindi
+tailor and adventurer--the weakliest of mortal bodies--was ever ailing
+for lack of "force," as he expressed it in French, i.e. "strength," ever
+indisposed to work, shiftless, mock-sick, but ever hungry. "Oh! God,"
+was the cry of my tired soul, "were all the men of my Expedition like
+this man I should be compelled to return." Solomon was wise perhaps
+from inspiration, perhaps from observation; I was becoming wise by
+experience, and I was compelled to observe that when mud and wet sapped
+the physical energy of the lazily-inclined, a dog-whip became their
+backs, restoring them to a sound--some-times to an extravagant activity.
+
+For thirty miles from our camp was the Makata plain an extensive swamp.
+The water was on an average one foot in depth; in some places we plunged
+into holes three, four, and even five feet deep. Plash, splash, plash,
+splash, were the only sounds we heard from the commencement of the march
+until we found the bomas occupying the only dry spots along the line of
+march. This kind of work continued for two days, until we came in sight
+of the Rudewa river, another powerful stream with banks brimful of
+rushing rain-water. Crossing a branch of the Rudewa, and emerging from
+the dank reedy grass crowding the western bank, the view consisted of
+an immense sheet of water topped by clumps of grass tufts and foliage of
+thinly scattered trees, bounded ten or twelve miles off by the eastern
+front of the Usagara mountain range. The acme of discomfort and vexation
+was realized on the five-mile march from the Rudewa branch. As myself
+and the Wangwana appeared with the loaded donkeys, the pagazis were
+observed huddled on a mound. When asked if the mound was the camp, they
+replied "No." "Why, then, do you stop here?"--"Ugh! water plenty!!" One
+drew a line across his loins to indicate the depth of water before us,
+another drew a line across his chest, another across his throat another
+held his hand over his head, by which he meant that we should have to
+swim. Swim five miles through a reedy marsh! It was impossible; it was
+also impossible that such varied accounts could all be correct. Without
+hesitation, therefore, I ordered the Wangwana to proceed with the
+animals. After three hours of splashing through four feet of water we
+reached dry land, and had traversed the swamp of Makata. But not without
+the swamp with its horrors having left a durable impression upon our
+minds; no one was disposed to forget its fatigues, nor the nausea of
+travel which it almost engendered. Subsequently, we had to remember its
+passage still more vividly, and to regret that we had undertaken the
+journey during the Masika season, when the animals died from this date
+by twos and threes, almost every day, until but five sickly worn-out
+beasts remained; when the Wangwana, soldiers, and pagazis sickened of
+diseases innumerable; when I myself was finally compelled to lie a-bed
+with an attack of acute dysentery which brought me to the verge of the
+grave. I suffered more, perhaps, than I might have done had I taken the
+proper medicine, but my over-confidence in that compound, called "Collis
+Brown's Chlorodyne," delayed the cure which ultimately resulted from a
+judicious use of Dover's powder. In no one single case of diarrhoea
+or acute dysentery had this "Chlorodyne," about which so much has been
+said, and written, any effect of lessening the attack whatever, though
+I used three bottles. To the dysentery contracted during, the transit of
+the Makata swamp, only two fell victims, and those were a pagazi and my
+poor little dog "Omar," my companion from India.
+
+The only tree of any prominence in the Makata valley was the Palmyra
+palm (Borassus flabelliformis), and this grew in some places in numbers
+sufficient to be called a grove; the fruit was not ripe while we passed,
+otherwise we might have enjoyed it as a novelty. The other vegetation
+consisted of the several species of thorn bush, and the graceful
+parachute-topped and ever-green mimosa.
+
+The 4th of May we were ascending a gentle slope towards the important
+village of Rehenneko, the first village near to which we encamped in
+Usagara. It lay at the foot of the mountain, and its plenitude and
+mountain air promised us comfort and health. It was a square, compact
+village, surrounded by a thick wall of mud, enclosing cone-topped huts,
+roofed with bamboo and holcus-stalks; and contained a population of
+about a thousand souls. It has several wealthy and populous neighbours,
+whose inhabitants are independent enough in their manner, but not
+unpleasantly so. The streams are of the purest water, fresh, and
+pellucid as crystal, bubbling over round pebbles and clean gravel, with
+a music delightful to hear to the traveller in search of such a sweetly
+potable element.
+
+The bamboo grows to serviceable size in the neighbourhood of Rehenneko,
+strong enough for tent and banghy poles; and in numbers sufficient to
+supply an army. The mountain slopes are densely wooded with trees that
+might supply very good timber for building purposes.
+
+We rested four days at this pleasant spot, to recruit ourselves, and to
+allow the sick and feeble time to recover a little before testing their
+ability in the ascent of the Usagara mountains.
+
+The 8th of May saw us with our terribly jaded men and animals winding up
+the steep slopes of the first line of hills; gaining the summit of which
+we obtained a view remarkably grand, which exhibited as in a master
+picture the broad valley of the Makata, with its swift streams like so
+many cords of silver, as the sunshine played on the unshadowed reaches
+of water, with its thousands of graceful palms adding not a little to
+the charm of the scene, with the great wall of the Uruguru and
+Uswapanga mountains dimly blue, but sublime in their loftiness and
+immensity--forming a fit background to such an extensive, far-embracing
+prospect.
+
+Turning our faces west, we found ourselves in a mountain world, fold
+rising above fold, peak behind peak, cone jostling cone; away to the
+north, to the west, to the south, the mountain tops rolled like so many
+vitrified waves; not one adust or arid spot was visible in all this
+scene. The diorama had no sudden changes or striking contrasts, for a
+universal forest of green trees clothed every peak, cone, and summit.
+
+To the men this first day's march through the mountain region of Usagara
+was an agreeable interlude after the successive journey over the flats
+and heavy undulations of the maritime region, but to the loaded and
+enfeebled animals it was most trying. We were minus two by the time
+we had arrived at our camp, but seven miles from Rehenneko, our first
+instalment of the debt we owed to Makata. Water, sweet and clear, was
+abundant in the deep hollows of the mountains, flowing sometimes over
+beds of solid granite, sometimes over a rich red sandstone, whose
+soft substance was soon penetrated by the aqueous element, and whose
+particles were swept away constantly to enrich the valley below; and in
+other ravines it dashed, and roared, miniature thunder, as it leaped
+over granite boulders and quartz rock.
+
+The 9th of May, after another such an up-and-down course, ascending
+hills and descending into the twilight depths of deepening valleys, we
+came suddenly upon the Mukondokwa, and its narrow pent-up valley crowded
+with rank reedy grass, cane, and thorny bushes; and rugged tamarisk
+which grappled for existence with monster convolvuli, winding their
+coils around their trunks with such tenacity and strength that the
+tamarisk seemed grown but for their support.
+
+The valley was barely a quarter of a mile broad in some places--at
+others it widened to about a mile. The hills on either side shot up into
+precipitous slopes, clothed with mimosa, acacia, and tamarisk,
+enclosing a river and valley whose curves and folds were as various as a
+serpent's.
+
+Shortly after debouching into the Mukondokwa valley, we struck the
+road traversed by Captains Buxton and Speke in 1857, between Mbumi and
+Kadetamare (the latter place should be called Misonghi, Kadetamare
+being but the name of a chief). After following the left bank of
+the Mukondokwa, during which our route diverged to every point from
+south-east to west, north and northeast, for about an hour, we came to
+the ford. Beyond the ford, a short half-hour's march, we came to Kiora.
+
+At this filthy village of Kiora, which was well-grounded with goat-dung,
+and peopled with a wonderful number of children for a hamlet that did
+not number twenty families, with a hot sun pouring on the limited open
+space, with a fury that exceeded 128 degrees Fahrenheit; which swarmed
+with flies and insects of known and unknown species; I found, as I had
+been previously informed, the third caravan, which had started out of
+Bagamoyo so well fitted and supplied. The leader, who was no other
+than the white man Farquhar, was sick-a-bed with swollen legs (Bright's
+disease), unable to move.
+
+As he heard my voice, Farquhar staggered out of his tent, so changed
+from my spruce mate who started from Bagamoyo, that I hardly knew him at
+first. His legs were ponderous, elephantine, since his leg-illness was
+of elephantiasis, or dropsy. His face was of a deathly pallor, for he
+had not been out of his tent for two weeks.
+
+A breezy hill, overlooking the village of Kiora, was chosen by me for
+my camping-ground, and as soon as the tents were pitched, the animals
+attended to, and a boma made of thorn bushes, Farquhar was carried up
+by four men into my tent. Upon being questioned as to the cause of his
+illness, he said he did not know what had caused it. He had no pain, he
+thought, anywhere. I asked, "Do you not sometimes feel pain on the right
+side?"--"Yes, I think I do; but I don't know."--"Nor over the left
+nipple sometimes--a quick throbbing, with a shortness of
+breath?"--"Yes, I think I have. I know I breathe quick sometimes." He
+said his only trouble was in the legs, which were swollen to an immense
+size. Though he had a sound appetite, he yet felt weak in the legs.
+
+From the scant information of the disease and its peculiarities, as
+given by Farquhar himself, I could only make out, by studying a little
+medical book I had with me, that "a swelling of the legs, and sometimes
+of the body, might result from either heart, liver, or kidney disease."
+But I did not know to what to ascribe the disease, unless it was to
+elephantiasis--a disease most common in Zanzibar; nor did I know how
+to treat it in a man who, could not tell me whether he felt pain in his
+head or in his back, in his feet or in his chest.
+
+It was therefore fortunate for me that I overtook him at Kiora; though
+he was about to prove a sore incumbrance to me, for he was not able to
+walk, and the donkey-carriage, after the rough experience of the Makata
+valley, was failing. I could not possibly leave him at Kiora, death
+would soon overtake him there; but how long I could convey a man in
+such a state, through a country devoid of carriage, was a question to be
+resolved by circumstances.
+
+On the 11th of May, the third and fifth caravans, now united, followed
+up the right bank of the Mukondokwa, through fields of holcus, the great
+Mukondokwa ranges rising in higher altitude as we proceeded west, and
+enfolding us in the narrow river valley round about. We left Muniyi
+Usagara on our right, and soon after found hill-spurs athwart our road,
+which we were obliged to ascend and descend.
+
+A march of eight miles from the ford of Misonghi brought us to another
+ford of the Mukondokwa, where we bid a long adieu to Burton's road,
+which led up to the Goma pass and up the steep slopes of Rubeho. Our
+road left the right bank and followed the left over a country quite
+the reverse of the Mukondokwa Valley, enclosed between mountain ranges.
+Fertile soils and spontaneous vegetation, reeking with miasma and
+overpowering from their odour, we had exchanged for a drouthy wilderness
+of aloetic and cactaceous plants, where the kolquall and several thorn
+bushes grew paramount.
+
+Instead of the tree-clad heights, slopes and valleys, instead of
+cultivated fields, we saw now the confines of uninhabited wilderness.
+The hill-tops were bared of their bosky crowns, and revealed their rocky
+natures bleached white by rain and sun. Nguru Peak, the loftiest of the
+Usagara cones, stood right shoulderwards of us as we ascended the long
+slope of dun-grey soil which rose beyond the brown Mukondokwa on the
+left.
+
+At the distance of two miles from the last ford, we found a neat khambi,
+situated close to the river, where it first broke into a furious rapid.
+
+The next morning the caravan was preparing for the march, when I was
+informed that the "Bana Mdogo"--little master--Shaw, had not yet arrived
+with the cart, and the men in charge of it. Late the previous night I
+had despatched one donkey for Shaw, who had said he was too ill to walk,
+and another for the load that was on the cart; and had retired satisfied
+that they would soon arrive. My conclusion, when I learned in the
+morning that the people had not yet come in, was that Shaw was not aware
+that for five days we should have to march through a wilderness totally
+uninhabited. I therefore despatched Chowpereh, a Mgwana soldier, with
+the following note to him:--"You will, upon receipt of this order pitch
+the cart into the nearest ravine, gully, or river, as well as all the
+extra pack saddles; and come at once, for God's sake, for we must not
+starve here!"
+
+One, two, three, and four hours were passed by me in the utmost
+impatience, waiting, but in vain, for Shaw. Having a long march before
+us, I could wait no longer, but went to meet his party myself. About a
+quarter of mile from the ford I met the van of the laggards--stout
+burly Chowpereh--and, O cartmakers, listen! he carried the cart on his
+head--wheels, shafts, body, axle, and all complete; he having found that
+carrying it was much easier than drawing it. The sight was such a damper
+to my regard for it as an experiment, that the cart was wheeled into the
+depths of the tall reeds, and there left. The central figure was Shaw
+himself, riding at a gait which seemed to leave it doubtful on my mind
+whether he or his animal felt most sleepy. Upon expostulating with him
+for keeping the caravan so long waiting when there was a march on hand,
+in a most peculiar voice--which he always assumed when disposed to be
+ugly-tempered--he said he had done the best he could; but as I had
+seen the solemn pace at which he rode, I felt dubious about his best
+endeavours; and of course there was a little scene, but the young
+European mtongi of an East African expedition must needs sup with the
+fellows he has chosen.
+
+We arrived at Madete at 4 P.M., minus two donkeys, which had stretched
+their weary limbs in death. We had crossed the Mukondokwa about 3 P.M.,
+and after taking its bearings and course, I made sure that its rise took
+place near a group of mountains about forty miles north by west of Nguru
+Peak. Our road led W.N.W., and at this place finally diverged from the
+river.
+
+On the 14th, after a march of seven miles over hills whose sandstone
+and granite formation cropped visibly here and there above the surface,
+whose stony and dry aspect seemed reflected in every bush and plant, and
+having gained an altitude of about eight hundred feet above the flow
+of the Mukondokwa, we sighted the Lake of Ugombo--a grey sheet of water
+lying directly at the foot of the hill, from whose summit we gazed at
+the scene. The view was neither beautiful nor pretty, but what I should
+call refreshing; it afforded a pleasant relief to the eyes fatigued
+from dwelling on the bleak country around. Besides, the immediate
+neighbourhood of the lake was too tame to call forth any enthusiasm;
+there were no grandly swelling mountains, no smiling landscapes--nothing
+but a dun-brown peak, about one thousand feet high above the surface of
+the lake at its western extremity, from which the lake derived its name,
+Ugombo; nothing but a low dun-brown irregular range, running parallel
+with its northern shore at the distance of a mile; nothing but a low
+plain stretching from its western shore far away towards the Mpwapwa
+Mountains and Marenga Mkali, then apparent to us from our coign of
+vantage, from which extensive scene of dun-brownness we were glad to
+rest our eyes on the quiet grey water beneath.
+
+Descending from the summit of the range, which bounded the lake east for
+about four hundred feet, we travelled along the northern shore. The time
+occupied in the journey from the eastern to the western extremity was
+exactly one hour and thirty minutes.
+
+As this side represents its greatest length I conclude that the lake is
+three miles long by two miles greatest breadth. The immediate shores of
+the lake on all sides, for at least fifty feet from the water's edge,
+is one impassable morass nourishing rank reeds and rushes, where the
+hippopotamus' ponderous form has crushed into watery trails the soft
+composition of the morass as he passes from the lake on his nocturnal
+excursions; the lesser animals; such as the "mbogo" (buffalo), the
+"punda-terra" (zebra); the "twiga" (giraffe), the boar, the kudu, the
+hyrax or coney and the antelope; come here also to quench their thirst
+by night. The surface of the lake swarms with an astonishing variety of
+water-fowl; such as black swan, duck, ibis sacra cranes, pelicans; and
+soaring above on the look-out for their prey are fish-eagles and
+hawks, while the neighbourhood is resonant with the loud chirps of the
+guinea-fowls calling for their young, with the harsh cry of the toucan,
+the cooing of the pigeon, and the "to-whit, to-whoo" of the owl. From
+the long grass in its vicinity also issue the grating and loud cry of
+the florican, woodcock, and grouse.
+
+Being obliged to halt here two days, owing to the desertion of the Hindi
+cooper Jako with one of my best carbines, I improved the opportunity
+of exploring the northern and southern shores of the lake. At the rocky
+foot of a low, humpy hill on the northern side, about fifteen feet
+above the present surface of the water I detected in most distinct and
+definite lines the agency of waves. From its base could be traced clear
+to the edge of the dank morass tiny lines of comminuted shell as plainly
+marked as the small particles which lie in rows on a beech after a
+receding tide. There is no doubt that the wave-marks on the sandstone
+might have been traced much higher by one skilled in geology; it was
+only its elementary character that was visible to me. Nor do I entertain
+the least doubt, after a two days' exploration of the neighbourhood,
+especially of the low plain at the western end, that this Lake of Ugombo
+is but the tail of what was once a large body of water equal in extent
+to the Tanganika; and, after ascending half way up Ugombo Peak, this
+opinion was confirmed when I saw the long-depressed line of plain at
+its base stretching towards the Mpwapwa Mountains thirty miles off, and
+thence round to Marenga Mkali, and covering all that extensive surface
+of forty miles in breadth, and an unknown length. A depth of twelve feet
+more, I thought, as I gazed upon it, would give the lake a length
+of thirty miles, and a breadth of ten. A depth of thirty feet would
+increase its length over a hundred miles, and give it a breadth of
+fifty, for such was the level nature of the plain that stretched west
+of Ugombo, and north of Marenga Mkali. Besides the water of the lake
+partook slightly of the bitter nature of the Matamombo creek, distant
+fifteen miles, and in a still lesser degree of that of Marenga Mkali,
+forty miles off.
+
+Towards the end of the first day of our halt the Hindi cooper Jako
+arrived in camp, alleging as an excuse, that feeling fatigued he had
+fallen asleep in some bushes a few feet from the roadside. Having been
+the cause of our detention in the hungry wilderness of Ugombo, I was
+not in a frame of mind to forgive him; so, to prevent any future truant
+tricks on his part, I was under the necessity of including him with the
+chained gangs of runaways.
+
+Two more of our donkeys died, and to prevent any of the valuable
+baggage being left behind, I was obliged to send Farquhar off on my own
+riding-ass to the village of Mpwapwa, thirty miles off, under charge of
+Mabruki Burton.
+
+To save the Expedition from ruin, I was reluctantly compelled to come to
+the conclusion that it were better for me, for him, and concerned, that
+he be left with some kind chief of a village, with a six months'
+supply of cloth and beads, until he got well, than that he make his own
+recovery impossible.
+
+The 16th of May saw us journeying over the plain which lies between
+Ugombo and Mpwapwa, skirting close, at intervals, a low range of
+trap-rock, out of which had become displaced by some violent agency
+several immense boulders. On its slopes grew the kolquall to a size
+which I had not seen in Abyssinia. In the plain grew baobab, and immense
+tamarind, and a variety of thorn.
+
+Within five hours from Ugombo the mountain range deflected towards the
+north-east, while we continued on a north-westerly course, heading for
+the lofty mountain-line of the Mpwapwa. To our left towered to the blue
+clouds the gigantic Rubeho. The adoption of this new road to Unyanyembe
+by which we were travelling was now explained--we were enabled to
+avoid the passes and stiff steeps of Rubeho, and had nothing worse to
+encounter than a broad smooth plain, which sloped gently to Ugogo.
+
+After a march of fifteen miles we camped at a dry mtoni, called
+Matamombo, celebrated for its pools of bitter water of the colour
+of ochre. Monkeys and rhinoceroses, besides kudus, steinboks, and
+antelopes, were numerous in the vicinity. At this camp my little dog
+"Omar" died of inflammation of the bowels, almost on the threshold of
+the country--Ugogo--where his faithful watchfulness would have been
+invaluable to me.
+
+The next day's march was also fifteen miles in length, through one
+interminable jungle of thorn-bushes. Within two miles of the camp, the
+road led up a small river bed, broad as an avenue, clear to the khambi
+of Mpwapwa; which was situated close to a number of streams of the
+purest water.
+
+The following morning found us much fatigued after the long marches
+from Ugombo, and generally disposed to take advantage of the precious
+luxuries Mpwapwa offered to caravans fresh from the fly-plagued lands
+of the Waseguhha and Wadoe. Sheikh Thani--clever but innocently-speaking
+old Arab--was encamped under the grateful umbrage of a huge Mtamba
+sycamore, and had been regaling himself with fresh milk, luscious
+mutton, and rich bullock humps, ever since his arrival here, two days
+before; and, as he informed me, it did not suit his views to quit such
+a happy abundance so soon for the saline nitrous water of Marenga Mkali,
+with its several terekezas, and manifold disagreeables. "No!" said he to
+me, emphatically, "better stop here two or three days, give your tired
+animals some rest; collect all the pagazis you can, fill your inside
+with fresh milk, sweet potatoes, beef, mutton, ghee, honey, beans,
+matama, maweri, and nuts;--then, Inshallah! we shall go together through
+Ugogo without stopping anywhere." As the advice tallied accurately with
+my own desired and keen appetite for the good things he named, he had
+not long to wait for my assent to his counsel. "Ugogo," continued he,
+"is rich with milk and honey--rich in flour, beans and almost every
+eatable thing; and, Inshallah! before another week is gone we shall be
+in Ugogo!"
+
+I had heard from passing caravans so many extremely favourable reports
+respecting Ugogo and its productions that it appeared to me a very Land
+of Promise, and I was most anxious to refresh my jaded stomach with some
+of the precious esculents raised in Ugogo; but when I heard that Mpwapwa
+also furnished some of those delicate eatables, and good things, most of
+the morning hours were spent in inducing the slow-witted people to part
+with them; and when, finally, eggs, milk, honey, mutton, ghee, ground
+matama and beans had been collected in sufficient quantities to produce
+a respectable meal, my keenest attention and best culinary talents were
+occupied for a couple of hours in converting this crude supply into
+a breakfast which could be accepted by and befit a stomach at once
+fastidious and famished, such as mine was. The subsequent healthy
+digestion of it proved my endeavours to have been eminently successful.
+At the termination of this eventful day, the following remark was jotted
+down in my diary: "Thank God! After fifty-seven days of living
+upon matama porridge and tough goat, I have enjoyed with unctuous
+satisfaction a real breakfast and dinner."
+
+It was in one of the many small villages which are situated upon the
+slopes of the Mpwapwa that a refuge and a home for Farquhar was found
+until he should be enabled by restored health to start to join us at
+Unyanyembe.
+
+Food was plentiful and of sufficient variety to suit the most
+fastidious--cheap also, much cheaper than we had experienced for many
+a day. Leucole, the chief of the village, with whom arrangements for
+Farquhar's protection and comfort were made, was a little old man of
+mild eye and very pleasing face, and on being informed that it was
+intended to leave the Musungu entirely under his charge, suggested that
+some man should be left to wait on him, and interpret his wishes to his
+people.
+
+As Jako was the only one who could speak English, except Bombay and
+Selim, Jako was appointed, and the chief Leucole was satisfied. Six
+months' provisions of white beads, Merikani and Kaniki cloth, together
+with two doti of handsome cloth to serve as a present to Leucole after
+his recovery, were taken to Farquhar by Bombay, together with a Starr's
+carbine, 300 rounds of cartridge, a set of cooking pots, and 3 lbs. of
+tea.
+
+Abdullah bin Nasib, who was found encamped here with five hundred
+pagazis, and a train of Arab and Wasawahili satellites, who revolved
+around his importance, treated me in somewhat the same manner that Hamed
+bin Sulayman treated Speke at Kasenge. Followed by his satellites, he
+came (a tall nervous-looking man, of fifty or thereabouts) to see me in
+my camp, and asked me if I wished to purchase donkeys. As all my animals
+were either sick or moribund, I replied very readily in the affirmative,
+upon which he graciously said he would sell me as many as I wanted, and
+for payment I could give him a draft on Zanzibar. I thought him a very
+considerate and kind person, fully justifying the encomiums lavished
+on him in Burton's 'Lake Regions of Central Africa,' and accordingly I
+treated him with the consideration due to so great and good a man. The
+morrow came, and with it went Abdullah bin Nasib, or "Kisesa," as he is
+called by the Wanyamwezi, with all his pagazis, his train of followers,
+and each and every one of his donkeys, towards Bagamoyo, without so much
+as giving a "Kwaheri," or good-bye.
+
+At this place there are generally to be found from ten to thirty pagazis
+awaiting up-caravans. I was fortunate enough to secure twelve good
+people, who, upon my arrival at Unyanyembe, without an exception,
+voluntarily engaged themselves as carriers to Ujiji. With the formidable
+marches of Marenga Mkali in front, I felt thankful for this happy
+windfall, which resolved the difficulties I had been anticipating; for
+I had but ten donkeys left, and four of these were so enfeebled that
+they were worthless as baggage animals.
+
+Mpwapwa--so called by the Arabs, who have managed to corrupt almost
+every native word--is called "Mbambwa" by the Wasagara. It is a mountain
+range rising over 6,000 feet above the sea, bounding on the north the
+extensive plain which commences at Ugombo lake, and on the east that
+part of the plain which is called Marenga Mkali, which stretches away
+beyond the borders of Uhumba. Opposite Mpwapwa, at the distance of
+thirty miles or so, rises the Anak peak of Rubeho, with several other
+ambitious and tall brethren cresting long lines of rectilinear scarps,
+which ascend from the plain of Ugombo and Marenga Mkali as regularly as
+if they had been chiselled out by the hands of generations of masons and
+stonecutters.
+
+Upon looking at Mpwapwa's greenly-tinted slopes, dark with many
+a densely-foliaged tree; its many rills flowing sweet and clear,
+nourishing besides thick patches of gum and thorn bush, giant sycamore
+and parachute-topped mimosa, and permitting my imagination to picture
+sweet views behind the tall cones above, I was tempted to brave the
+fatigue of an ascent to the summit. Nor was my love for the picturesque
+disappointed. One sweep of the eyes embraced hundreds of square miles
+of plain and mountain, from Ugombo Peak away to distant Ugogo, and
+from Rubeho and Ugogo to the dim and purple pasture lands of the wild,
+untamable Wahumba. The plain of Ugombo and its neighbour of Marenga
+Mkali, apparently level as a sea, was dotted here and there with
+"hillocks dropt in Nature's careless haste," which appeared like islands
+amid the dun and green expanse. Where the jungle was dense the colour
+was green, alternating with dark brown; where the plain appeared denuded
+of bush and brake it had a whity-brown appearance, on which the passing
+clouds now and again cast their deep shadows. Altogether this side
+of the picture was not inviting; it exhibited too plainly the true
+wilderness in its sternest aspect; but perhaps the knowledge that in the
+bosom of the vast plain before me there was not one drop of water but
+was bitter as nitre, and undrinkable as urine, prejudiced me against
+it, The hunter might consider it a paradise, for in its depths were
+all kinds of game to attract his keenest instincts; but to the mere
+traveller it had a stern outlook. Nearer, however, to the base of the
+Mpwapwa the aspect of the plain altered. At first the jungle thinned,
+openings in the wood appeared, then wide and naked clearings, then
+extensive fields of the hardy holcus, Indian corn, and maweri or bajri,
+with here and there a square tembe or village. Still nearer ran thin
+lines of fresh young grass, great trees surrounded a patch of alluvial
+meadow. A broad river-bed, containing several rivulets of water, ran
+through the thirsty fields, conveying the vivifying element which in
+this part of Usagara was so scarce and precious. Down to the river-bed
+sloped the Mpwapwa, roughened in some places by great boulders of
+basalt, or by rock masses, which had parted from a precipitous scarp,
+where clung the kolquall with a sure hold, drawing nourishment where
+every other green thing failed; clad in others by the hardy mimosa,
+which rose like a sloping bank of green verdure almost to the summit.
+And, happy sight to me so long a stranger to it, there were hundreds of
+cattle grazing, imparting a pleasing animation to the solitude of the
+deep folds of the mountain range.
+
+But the fairest view was obtained by looking northward towards the dense
+group of mountains which buttressed the front range, facing towards
+Rubeho. It was the home of the winds, which starting here and sweeping
+down the precipitous slopes and solitary peaks on the western side,
+and gathering strength as they rushed through the prairie-like Marenga
+Mkali, howled through Ugogo and Unyamwezi with the force of a storm,
+It was also the home of the dews, where sprang the clear springs which
+cheered by their music the bosky dells below, and enriched the populous
+district of Mpwapwa. One felt better, stronger, on this breezy height,
+drinking in the pure air and feasting the eyes on such a varied
+landscape as it presented, on spreading plateaus green as lawns, on
+smooth rounded tops, on mountain vales containing recesses which
+might charm a hermit's soul, on deep and awful ravines where reigned
+a twilight gloom, on fractured and riven precipices, on huge
+fantastically-worn boulders which overtopped them, on picturesque tracts
+which embraced all that was wild, and all that was poetical in Nature.
+
+Mpwapwa, though the traveller from the coast will feel grateful for the
+milk it furnished after being so long deprived of it, will be kept in
+mind as a most remarkable place for earwigs. In my tent they might
+be counted by thousands; in my slung cot they were by hundreds; on my
+clothes they were by fifties; on my neck and head they were by scores.
+The several plagues of locusts, fleas, and lice sink into utter
+insignificance compared with this fearful one of earwigs. It is true
+they did not bite, and they did not irritate the cuticle, but what their
+presence and numbers suggested was something so horrible that it drove
+one nearly insane to think of it. Who will come to East Africa without
+reading the experiences of Burton and Speke? Who is he that having read
+them will not remember with horror the dreadful account given by Speke
+of his encounters with these pests? My intense nervous watchfulness
+alone, I believe, saved me from a like calamity.
+
+Second to the earwigs in importance and in numbers were the white
+ants, whose powers of destructiveness were simply awful. Mats, cloth,
+portmanteaus, clothes, in short, every article I possessed, seemed on
+the verge of destruction, and, as I witnessed their voracity, I felt
+anxious lest my tent should be devoured while I slept. This was the
+first khambi since leaving the coast where their presence became a
+matter of anxiety; at all other camping places hitherto the red and
+black ants had usurped our attention, but at Mpwapwa the red species
+were not seen, while the black were also very scarce.
+
+After a three days' halt at Mpwapwa I decided of a march to Marenga
+Mkali, which should be uninterrupted until we reached Mvumi in Ugogo,
+where I should be inducted into the art of paying tribute to the Wagogo
+chiefs. The first march to Kisokweh was purposely made short, being
+barely four miles, in order to enable Sheikh Thani, Sheikh Hamed, and
+five or six Wasawahili caravans to come up with me at Chunyo on the
+confines of Marenga Mkali.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII. -- MARENGA MKALI, UGOGO, AND UYANZI, TO UNYANYEMBE.
+
+     Mortality amongst the baggage animals.--The contumacious
+     Wagogo--Mobs of Maenads.--Tribute paying.--Necessity of
+     prudence.--Oration of the guide.--The genuine "Ugogians."--
+     Vituperative power.--A surprised chief.--The famous
+     Mizanza.--Killing hyaenas.--The Greeks and Romans of
+     Africa.--A critical moment.--The "elephant's back."--The
+     wilderness of Ukimbu.--End of the first stage of the
+     search.--Arrival at Unyanyembe.
+
+
+The 22nd of May saw Thani and Hamed's caravans united with my own at
+Chunyo, three and a half hours' march from Mpwapwa. The road from the
+latter place ran along the skirts of the Mpwapwa range; at three or four
+places it crossed outlying spurs that stood isolated from the main body
+of the range. The last of these hill spurs, joined by an elevated cross
+ridge to the Mpwapwa, shelters the tembe of Chunyo, situated on the
+western face, from the stormy gusts that come roaring down the steep
+slopes. The water of Chunyo is eminently bad, in fact it is its
+saline-nitrous nature which has given the name Marenga Mkali--bitter
+water--to the wilderness which separates Usagara from Ugogo. Though
+extremely offensive to the palate, Arabs and the natives drink it
+without fear, and without any bad results; but they are careful to
+withhold their baggage animals from the pits. Being ignorant of its
+nature, and not exactly understanding what precise location was meant
+by Marenga Mkali, I permitted the donkeys to be taken to water, as usual
+after a march; and the consequence was calamitous in the extreme. What
+the fearful swamp of Makata had spared, the waters of Marenga Mkali
+destroyed. In less than five days after our departure from Chunyo or
+Marenga Mali, five out of the nine donkeys left to me at the time--the
+five healthiest animals--fell victims.
+
+We formed quite an imposing caravan as we emerged from inhospitable
+Chunyo, in number amounting to about four hundred souls. We were strong
+in guns, flags, horns, sounding drums and noise. To Sheikh Hamed, by
+permission of Sheikh Thani, and myself was allotted the task of guiding
+and leading this great caravan through dreaded Ugogo; which was a most
+unhappy selection, as will be seen hereafter.
+
+Marenga Mali, over thirty miles across, was at last before us. This
+distance had to be traversed within thirty-six hours, so that the
+fatigue of the ordinary march would be more than doubled by this.
+From Chunyo to Ugogo not one drop of water was to be found. As a
+large caravan, say over two hundred souls, seldom travels over one and
+three-quarter miles per hour, a march of thirty miles would require
+seventeen hours of endurance without water and but little rest. East
+Africa generally possessing unlimited quantities of water, caravans
+have not been compelled for lack of the element to have recourse to
+the mushok of India and the khirbeh of Egypt. Being able to cross the
+waterless districts by a couple of long marches, they content themselves
+for the time with a small gourdful, and with keeping their imaginations
+dwelling upon the copious quantities they will drink upon arrival at the
+watering-place.
+
+The march through this waterless district was most monotonous, and a
+dangerous fever attacked me, which seemed to eat into my very vitals.
+The wonders of Africa that bodied themselves forth in the shape of
+flocks of zebras, giraffes, elands, or antelopes, galloping over the
+jungleless plain, had no charm for me; nor could they serve to draw my
+attention from the severe fit of sickness which possessed me. Towards
+the end of the first march I was not able to sit upon the donkey's back;
+nor would it do, when but a third of the way across the wilderness, to
+halt until the next day; soldiers were therefore detailed to carry me in
+a hammock, and, when the terekeza was performed in the afternoon, I lay
+in a lethargic state, unconscious of all things. With the night passed
+the fever, and, at 3 o'clock in the morning, when the march was resumed,
+I was booted and spurred, and the recognized mtongi of my caravan once
+more. At 8 A.M. we had performed the thirty-two miles. The wilderness
+of Marenga Mkali had been passed and we had entered Ugogo, which was at
+once a dreaded land to my caravan, and a Land of Promise to myself.
+
+The transition from the wilderness into this Promised Land was very
+gradual and easy. Very slowly the jungle thinned, the cleared land was
+a long time appearing, and when it had finally appeared, there were no
+signs of cultivation until we could clearly make out the herbage and
+vegetation on some hill slopes to our right running parallel with
+our route, then we saw timber on the hills, and broad acreage under
+cultivation--and, lo! as we ascended a wave of reddish earth covered
+with tall weeds and cane, but a few feet from us, and directly across
+our path, were the fields of matama and grain we had been looking for,
+and Ugogo had been entered an hour before.
+
+The view was not such as I expected. I had imagined a plateau several
+hundred feet higher than Marenga Mkali, and an expansive view which
+should reveal Ugogo and its characteristics at once. But instead, while
+travelling from the tall weeds which covered the clearing which had
+preceded the cultivated parts, we had entered into the depths of the
+taller matama stalks, and, excepting some distant hills near Mvumi,
+where the Great Sultan lived--the first of the tribe to whom we should
+pay tribute--the view was extremely limited.
+
+However, in the neighbourhood of the first village a glimpse at some
+of the peculiar features of Ugogo was obtained, and there was a vast
+plain--now flat, now heaving upwards, here level as a table, there
+tilted up into rugged knolls bristling with scores of rough boulders of
+immense size, which lay piled one above another as if the children of a
+Titanic race had been playing at house-building. Indeed, these piles of
+rounded, angular, and riven rock formed miniature hills of themselves;
+and appeared as if each body had been ejected upwards by some violent
+agency beneath. There was one of these in particular, near Mvumi, which
+was so large, and being slightly obscured from view by the outspreading
+branches of a gigantic baobab, bore such a strong resemblance to a
+square tower of massive dimensions, that for a long time I cherished
+the idea that I had discovered something most interesting which had
+strangely escaped the notice of my predecessors in East Africa. A nearer
+view dispelled the illusion, and proved it to be a huge cube of rock,
+measuring about forty feet each way. The baobabs were also particularly
+conspicuous on this scene, no other kind of tree being visible in the
+cultivated parts. These had probably been left for two reasons: first,
+want of proper axes for felling trees of such enormous growth; secondly,
+because during a famine the fruit of the baobab furnishes a flour which,
+in the absence of anything better, is said to be eatable and nourishing.
+
+The first words I heard in Ugogo were from a Wagogo elder, of sturdy
+form, who in an indolent way tended the flocks, but showed a marked
+interest in the stranger clad in white flannels, with a Hawkes' patent
+cork solar topee on his head, a most unusual thing in Ugogo, who came
+walking past him, and there were "Yambo, Musungu, Yambo, bana, bana,"
+delivered with a voice loud enough to make itself heard a full mile
+away. No sooner had the greeting been delivered than the word "Musungu"
+seemed to electrify his entire village; and the people of other
+villages, situated at intervals near the road, noting the excitement
+that reigned at the first, also participated in the general frenzy which
+seemed suddenly to have possessed them. I consider my progress from
+the first village to Mvumi to have been most triumphant; for I was
+accompanied by a furious mob of men, women, and children, all almost as
+naked as Mother Eve when the world first dawned upon her in the garden
+of Eden, fighting, quarrelling, jostling, staggering against each other
+for the best view of the white man, the like of whom was now seen for
+the first time in this part of Ugogo. The cries of admiration, such as
+"Hi-le!" which broke often and in confused uproar upon my ear, were not
+gratefully accepted, inasmuch as I deemed many of them impertinent. A
+respectful silence and more reserved behaviour would have won my
+esteem; but, ye powers, who cause etiquette to be observed in Usungu,*
+respectful silence, reserved behaviour, and esteem are terms unknown
+in savage Ugogo. Hitherto I had compared myself to a merchant of Bagdad
+travelling among the Kurds of Kurdistan, selling his wares of Damascus
+silk, kefiyehs, &c.; but now I was compelled to lower my standard, and
+thought myself not much better than a monkey in a zoological collection.
+One of my soldiers requested them to lessen their vociferous noise;
+but the evil-minded race ordered him to shut up, as a thing unworthy to
+speak to the Wagogo! When I imploringly turned to the Arabs for counsel
+in this strait, old Sheikh Thani, always worldly wise, said, "Heed them
+not; they are dogs who bite besides barking." -------- *
+White man's land. --------
+
+At 9 A.M. we were in our boma, near Mvumi village; but here also crowds
+of Wagogo came to catch a glimpse of the Musungu, whose presence was
+soon made known throughout the district of Mvumi. But two hours later I
+was oblivious of their endeavours to see me; for, despite repeated doses
+of quinine, the mukunguru had sure hold of me.
+
+The next day was a march of eight miles, from East Mvumi to West Mvumi,
+where lived the Sultan of the district. The quantity and variety
+of provisions which arrived at our boma did not belie the reports
+respecting the productions of Ugogo. Milk, sour and sweet, honey, beans,
+matama, maweri, Indian corn, ghee, pea-nuts, and a species of bean-nut
+very like a large pistachio or an almond, water-melons, pumpkins,
+mush-melons, and cucumbers were brought, and readily exchanged for
+Merikani, Kaniki, and for the white Merikani beads and Sami-Sami, or
+Sam-Sam. The trade and barter which progressed in the camp from morning
+till night reminded me of the customs existing among the Gallas and
+Abyssinians. Eastward, caravans were obliged to despatch men with cloth,
+to purchase from the villagers. This was unnecessary in Ugogo, where the
+people voluntarily brought every vendible they possessed to the camp.
+The smallest breadth of white or blue cloth became saleable and useful
+in purchasing provisions--even a loin-cloth worn threadbare.
+
+The day after our march was a halt. We had fixed this day for bearing
+the tribute to the Great Sultan of Mvumi. Prudent and cautious Sheikh
+Thani early began this important duty, the omission of which would have
+been a signal for war. Hamed and Thani sent two faithful slaves, well
+up to the eccentricities of the Wagogo sultans--well spoken, having glib
+tongues and the real instinct for trade as carried on amongst
+Orientals. They bore six doti of cloths, viz., one doti of Dabwani
+Ulyah contributed by myself, also one doti of Barsati from me, two doti
+Merikani Satine from Sheikh Thani, and two doti of Kaniki from Sheikh
+Hamed, as a first instalment of the tribute. The slaves were absent a
+full hour, but having wasted their powers of pleading, in vain, they
+returned with the demand for more, which Sheikh Thani communicated to me
+in this wise:
+
+"Auf! this Sultan is a very bad man--a very bad man indeed; he says, the
+Musungu is a great man, I call him a sultan; the Musungu is very rich,
+for he has several caravans already gone past; the Musungu must pay
+forty doti, and the Arabs must pay twelve doti each, for they have rich
+caravans. It is of no use for you to tell me you are all one caravan,
+otherwise why so many flags and tents? Go and bring me sixty doti, with
+less I will not be satisfied."
+
+I suggested to Sheikh Thani, upon hearing this exorbitant demand, that
+had I twenty Wasungu* armed with Winchester repeating rifles, the Sultan
+might be obliged to pay tribute to me; but Thani prayed and begged me to
+be cautious lest angry words might irritate the Sultan and cause him to
+demand a double tribute, as he was quite capable of doing so; "and if
+you preferred war," said he, "your pagazis would all desert, and leave
+you and your cloth to the small mercy of the Wagogo." But I hastened to
+allay his fears by telling Bombay, in his presence, that I had foreseen
+such demands on the part of the Wagogo, and that having set aside one
+hundred and twenty doti of honga cloths, I should not consider myself a
+sufferer if the Sultan demanded and I paid forty cloths to him; that he
+must therefore open the honga bale, and permit Sheikh Thani to extract
+such cloths as the Sultan might like.
+
+Sheikh Thani, having put on the cap of consideration and joined heads
+with Hamed and the faithful serviles, thought if I paid twelve doti,
+out of which three should be of Ulyah+ quality, that the Sultan might
+possibly condescend to accept our tribute; supposing he was persuaded
+by the oratorical words of the "Faithfuls," that the Musungu had nothing
+with him but the mashiwa (boat), which would be of no use to him, come
+what might,--with which prudent suggestion the Musungu concurred, seeing
+its wisdom.
+
+     * White men.
+
+     + Best, or superior.
+
+The slaves departed, bearing this time from our boma thirty doti, with
+our best wishes for their success. In an hour they returned with empty
+hands, but yet unsuccessful. The Sultan demanded six doti of Merikani,
+and a fundo of bubu, from the Musungu; and from the Arabs and other
+caravans, twelve doti more. For the third time the slaves departed for
+the Sultan's tembe, carrying with them six doti Merikani and a fundo of
+bubu from myself, and ten doti from the Arabs. Again they returned to
+us with the Sultan's words, "That, as the doti of the Musungu were short
+measure, and the cloths of the Arabs of miserable quality, the Musungu
+must send three doti full measure, and the Arabs five doti of
+Kaniki." My three doti were at once measured out with the longest
+fore-arm--according to Kigogo measure--and sent off by Bombay; but the
+Arabs, almost in despair, declared they would be ruined if they gave way
+to such demands, and out of the five doti demanded sent only two, with a
+pleading to the Sultan that he would consider what was paid as just and
+fair Muhongo, and not ask any more. But the Sultan of Mvumi was by no
+means disposed to consider any such proposition, but declared he must
+have three doti, and these to be two of Ulyah cloth, and one Kitambi
+Barsati, which, as he was determined to obtain, were sent to him heavy
+with the deep maledictions of Sheikh Hamed and the despairing sighs of
+sheikh Thani.
+
+Altogether the sultanship of a district in Ugogo must be very
+remunerative, besides being a delightful sinecure, so long as the Sultan
+has to deal with timid Arab merchants who fear to exhibit anything
+approaching to independence and self-reliance, lest they might
+be mulcted in cloth. In one day from one camp the sultan received
+forty-seven doti, consisting of Merikani, Kaniki, Barsati, and Dabwani,
+equal to $35.25, besides seven doti of superior cloths, consisting of
+Rehani, Sohari, and Daobwani Ulyah, and one fundo of Bubu, equal to
+$14.00, making a total of $49.25--a most handsome revenue for a Mgogo
+chief.
+
+On the 27th May we gladly shook the dust of Mvumi from our feet, and
+continued on our route--ever westward. Five of my donkeys had died the
+night before, from the effects of the water of Marenga Mkali. Before
+leaving the camp of Mvumi, I went to look at their carcases; but found
+them to have been clean picked by the hyaenas, and the bones taken
+possession of by an army of white-necked crows.
+
+As we passed the numerous villages, and perceived the entire face of
+the land to be one vast field of grain, and counted the people halted
+by scores on the roadside to feast their eyes with a greedy stare on the
+Musungu, I no longer wondered at the extortionate demands of the Wagogo.
+For it was manifest that they had but to stretch out their hands to
+possess whatever the wealth of a caravan consisted of; and I began to
+think better of the people who, knowing well their strength, did not
+use it--of people who were intellectual enough to comprehend that their
+interest lay in permitting the caravans to pass on without attempting
+any outrage.
+
+Between Mvumi and the nest Sultan's district, that of Matamburu, I
+counted no less than twenty-five villages, scattered over the clayey,
+coloured plain. Despite the inhospitable nature of the plain, it was
+better cultivated than any part of any other country we had seen since
+leaving Bagamoyo.
+
+When we had at last arrived at our boma of Matamburu, the same groups of
+curious people, the same eager looks, the same exclamations of surprise,
+the same, peals of laughter, at something they deemed ludicrous in the
+Musungu's dress or manner, awaited us, as at Mvumi. The Arabs being
+"Wakonongo" travellers, whom they saw every day, enjoyed a complete
+immunity from the vexations which we had to endure.
+
+The Sultan of Matamburu, a man of herculean form, and massive head well
+set on shoulders that might vie with those of Milo, proved to be a very
+reasonable person. Not quite so powerful as the Sultan of Mvumi, he yet
+owned a fair share of Ugogo and about forty villages, and could, if he
+chose, have oppressed the mercantile souls of my Arab companions, in
+the same way as he of Mvumi. Four doti of cloth were taken to him as a
+preliminary offering to his greatness, which he said he would accept, if
+the Arabs and Musungu would send him four more. As his demands were
+so reasonable, this little affair was soon terminated to everybody's
+satisfaction; and soon after, the kirangozi of Sheikh Hamed sounded the
+signal for the morrow's march.
+
+At the orders of the same Sheikh, the kirangozi stood up to speak before
+the assembled caravans. "Words, words, from the Bana," he shouted.
+"Give ear, kirangozis! Listen, children of Unyamwezi! The journey is for
+to-morrow! The road is crooked and bad, bad! The jungle is there, and
+many Wagogo lie hidden within it! Wagogo spear the pagazis, and cut
+the throats of those who carry mutumba (bales) and ushanga (beads)! The
+Wagogo have been to our camp, they have seen your bales; to-night
+they seek the jungle: to-morrow watch well, O Wanyamwezi! Keep close
+together, lag not behind! Kirangozis walk slow, that the weak, the
+sick, and the young may keep up with the strong! Take two rests on the
+journey! These are the words of the Bana (master). Do you hear
+them, Wanyamwezi? (A loud shout in the affirmative from all.) Do you
+understand them well? (another chorus); then Bas;" having said which,
+the eloquent kirangozi retired into the dark night, and his straw hut.
+
+The march to Bihawana, our next camp, was rugged and long, through a
+continuous jungle of gums and thorns, up steep hills and finally over a
+fervid plain, while the sun waxed hotter and hotter as it drew near the
+meridian, until it seemed to scorch all vitality from inanimate nature,
+while the view was one white blaze, unbearable to the pained sight,
+which sought relief from the glare in vain. Several sandy watercourses,
+on which were impressed many a trail of elephants, were also passed on
+this march. The slope of these stream-beds trended south-east and south.
+
+In the middle of this scorching plain stood the villages of Bihawana,
+almost undistinguishable, from the extreme lowness of the huts, which
+did not reach the height of the tall bleached grass which stood smoking
+in the untempered heat.
+
+Our camp was in a large boma, about a quarter of a mile from the
+Sultan's tembe. Soon after arriving at the camp, I was visited by three
+Wagogo, who asked me if I had seen a Mgogo on the road with a woman
+and child. I was about to answer, very innocently, "Yes," when
+Mabruki--cautious and watchful always for the interests of the
+master--requested me not to answer, as the Wagogo, as customary, would
+charge me with having done away with them, and would require their price
+from me. Indignant at the imposition they were about to practise upon
+me, I was about to raise my whip to flog them out of the camp, when
+again Mabruki, with a roaring voice, bade me beware, for every blow
+would cost me three or four doti of cloth. As I did not care to gratify
+my anger at such an expense, I was compelled to swallow my wrath, and
+consequently the Wagogo escaped chastisement.
+
+We halted for one day at this place, which was a great relief to me, as
+I was suffering severely from intermittent fever, which lasted in this
+case two weeks, and entirely prevented my posting my diary in full, as
+was my custom every evening after a march.
+
+The Sultan of Bihawana, though his subjects were evil-disposed, and
+ready-handed at theft and murder, contented himself with three doti as
+honga. From this chief I received news of my fourth caravan, which had
+distinguished itself in a fight with some outlawed subjects of his; my
+soldiers had killed two who had attempted, after waylaying a couple of
+my pagazis, to carry away a bale of cloth and a bag of beads; coming
+up in time, the soldiers decisively frustrated the attempt. The Sultan
+thought that if all caravans were as well guarded as mine were, there
+would be less depredations committed on them while on the road; with
+which I heartily agreed.
+
+The next sultan's tembe through whose territory we marched, this being
+on the 30th May, was at Kididimo, but four miles from Bihawna. The road
+led through a flat elongated plain, lying between two lengthy hilly
+ridges, thickly dotted with the giant forms of the baobab. Kididimo is
+exceedingly bleak in aspect. Even the faces of the Wagogo seemed to have
+contracted a bleak hue from the general bleakness around. The water of
+the pits obtained in the neighbourhood had an execrable flavor, and two
+donkeys sickened and died in less than an hour from its effects.
+Man suffered nausea and a general irritability of the system, and
+accordingly revenged himself by cursing the country and its imbecile
+ruler most heartily. The climax came, however, when Bombay reported,
+after an attempt to settle the Muhongo, that the chief's head had grown
+big since he heard that the Musungu had come, and that its "bigness"
+could not be reduced unless he could extract ten doti as tribute. Though
+the demand was large, I was not in a humour--being feeble, and almost
+nerveless, from repeated attacks of the Mukunguru--to dispute the sum:
+consequently it was paid without many words. But the Arabs continued the
+whole afternoon negotiating, and at the end had to pay eight doti each.
+
+Between Kididimo and Nyambwa, the district of the Sultan Pembera Pereh,
+was a broad and lengthy forest and jungle inhabited by the elephant,
+rhinoceros, zebra, deer, antelope, and giraffe. Starting at dawn of
+the 31st; we entered the jungle, whose dark lines and bosky banks were
+clearly visible from our bower at Kididimo; and, travelling for two
+hours, halted for rest and breakfast, at pools of sweet water surrounded
+by tracts of vivid green verdure, which were a great resort for the wild
+animals of the jungle, whose tracks were numerous and recent. A narrow
+nullah, shaded deeply with foliage, afforded excellent retreats from
+the glaring sunshine. At meridian, our thirst quenched, our hunger
+satisfied, our gourds refilled, we set out from the shade into the
+heated blaze of hot noon. The path serpentined in and out of jungle, and
+thin forest, into open tracts of grass bleached white as stubble, into
+thickets of gums and thorns, which emitted an odour as rank as a stable;
+through clumps of wide-spreading mimosa and colonies of baobab, through
+a country teeming with noble game, which, though we saw them frequently,
+were yet as safe from our rifles as if we had been on the Indian Ocean.
+A terekeza, such as we were now making, admits of no delay. Water we
+had left behind at noon: until noon of the next day not a drop was to be
+obtained; and unless we marched fast and long on this day, raging
+thirst would demoralize everybody. So for six long weary hours we toiled
+bravely; and at sunset we camped, and still a march of two hours, to be
+done before the sun was an hour high, intervened between us and our camp
+at Nyambwa. That night the men bivouacked under the trees, surrounded by
+many miles of dense forest, enjoying the cool night unprotected by hat
+or tent, while I groaned and tossed throughout the night in a paroxysm
+of fever.
+
+The morn came; and, while it was yet young, the long caravan, or string
+of caravans, was under way. It was the same forest, admitting, on the
+narrow line which we threaded, but one man at a time. Its view was as
+limited. To our right and left the forest was dark and deep. Above was
+a riband of glassy sky flecked by the floating nimbus. We heard nothing
+save a few stray notes from a flying bird, or the din of the caravans as
+the men sang, or hummed, or conversed, or shouted, as the thought struck
+them that we were nearing water. One of my pagazis, wearied and sick,
+fell, and never rose again. The last of the caravan passed him before he
+died.
+
+At 7 A.M. we were encamped at Nyambwa, drinking the excellent water
+found here with the avidity of thirsty camels. Extensive fields of grain
+had heralded the neighbourhood of the villages, at the sight of which we
+were conscious that the caravan was quickening its pace, as approaching
+its halting-place. As the Wasungu drew within the populated area, crowds
+of Wagogo used their utmost haste to see them before they passed by.
+Young and old of both genders pressed about us in a multitude--a very
+howling mob. This excessive demonstrativeness elicited from my sailor
+overseer the characteristic remark, "Well, I declare, these must be
+the genuine Ugogians, for they stare! stare--there is no end to their
+staring. I'm almost tempted to slap 'em in the face!" In fact, the
+conduct of the Wagogo of Nyambwa was an exaggeration of the general
+conduct of Wagogo. Hitherto, those we had met had contented themselves
+with staring and shouting; but these outstepped all bounds, and my
+growing anger at their excessive insolence vented itself in gripping
+the rowdiest of them by the neck, and before he could recover from his
+astonishment administering a sound thrashing with my dog-whip, which he
+little relished. This proceeding educed from the tribe of starers all
+their native power of vituperation and abuse, in expressing which they
+were peculiar. Approaching in manner to angry tom-cats, they jerked
+their words with something of a splitting hiss and a half bark. The
+ejaculation, as near as I can spell it phonetically, was "hahcht"
+uttered in a shrill crescendo tone. They paced backwards and forwards,
+asking themselves, "Are the Wagoga to be beaten like slaves by this
+Musungu? A Mgogo is a Mgwana (a free man); he is not used to be
+beaten,--hahcht." But whenever I made motion, flourishing my whip,
+towards them, these mighty braggarts found it convenient to move to
+respectable distances from the irritated Musungu.
+
+Perceiving that a little manliness and show of power was something which
+the Wagogo long needed, and that in this instance it relieved me from
+annoyance, I had recourse to my whip, whose long lash cracked like
+a pistol shot, whenever they overstepped moderation. So long as they
+continued to confine their obtrusiveness to staring, and communicating
+to each other their opinions respecting my complexion, and dress, and
+accoutrements, I philosophically resigned myself in silence for their
+amusement; but when they pressed on me, barely allowing me to proceed, a
+few vigorous and rapid slashes right and left with my serviceable thong,
+soon cleared the track.
+
+Pembera Pereh is a queer old man, very small, and would be very
+insignificant were he not the greatest sultan in Ugogo; and enjoying a
+sort of dimediate power over many other tribes. Though such an
+important chief, he is the meanest dressed of his subjects,--is always
+filthy,--ever greasy--eternally foul about the mouth; but these are mere
+eccentricities: as a wise judge, he is without parallel, always has a
+dodge ever ready for the abstraction of cloth from the spiritless Arab
+merchants, who trade with Unyanyembe every year; and disposes with ease
+of a judicial case which would overtask ordinary men.
+
+Sheikh Hamed, who was elected guider of the united caravans now
+travelling through Ugogo, was of such a fragile and small make, that he
+might be taken for an imitation of his famous prototype "Dapper." Being
+of such dimensions, what he lacked for weight and size he made up by
+activity. No sooner had he arrived in camp than his trim dapper form
+was seen frisking about from side to side of the great boma, fidgeting,
+arranging, disturbing everything and everybody. He permitted no bales
+or packs to be intermingled, or to come into too close proximity to his
+own; he had a favourite mode of stacking his goods, which he would see
+carried out; he had a special eye for the best place for his tent, and
+no one else must trespass on that ground. One would imagine that walking
+ten or fifteen miles a day, he would leave such trivialities to his
+servants, but no, nothing could be right unless he had personally
+superintended it; in which work he was tireless and knew no fatigue.
+
+Another not uncommon peculiarity pertained to Sheikh Hamed; as he was
+not a rich man, he laboured hard to make the most of every shukka
+and doti expended, and each fresh expenditure seemed to gnaw his very
+vitals: he was ready to weep, as he himself expressed it, at the high
+prices of Ugogo, and the extortionate demands of its sultans. For this
+reason, being the leader of the caravans, so far as he was able we were
+very sure not to be delayed in Ugogo, where food was so dear.
+
+The day we arrived at Nyambwa will be remembered by Hamed as long as he
+lives, for the trouble and vexation which he suffered. His misfortunes
+arose from the fact that, being too busily engaged in fidgeting about
+the camp, he permitted his donkeys to stray into the matama fields of
+Pembera Pereh, the Sultan. For hours he and his servants sought for the
+stray donkeys, returning towards evening utterly unsuccessful, Hamed
+bewailing, as only an Oriental can do, when hard fate visits him with
+its inflictions, the loss of a hundred do dollars worth of Muscat
+donkeys. Sheikh Thani, older, more experienced, and wiser, suggested
+to him that he should notify the Sultan of his loss. Acting upon
+the sagacious advice, Hamed sent an embassy of two slaves, and the
+information they brought back was, that Pembera Pereh's servants had
+found the two donkeys eating the unripened matama, and that unless
+the Arab who owned them would pay nine doti of first-class cloths, he,
+Pembera Pereh, would surely keep them to remunerate him for the matama
+they had eaten. Hamed was in despair. Nine doti of first-class cloths,
+worth $25 in Unyanyembe, for half a chukka's worth of grain, was, as
+he thought, an absurd demand; but then if he did not pay it, what would
+become of the hundred dollars' worth of donkeys? He proceeded to the
+Sultan to show him the absurdity of the damage claim, and to endeavour
+to make him accept one chukka, which would be more than double the worth
+of what grain the donkeys had consumed. But the Sultan was sitting on
+pombe; he was drunk, which I believe to be his normal state--too drunk
+to attend to business, consequently his deputy, a renegade Mnyamwezi,
+gave ear to the business. With most of the Wagogo chiefs lives a
+Mnyamwezi, as their right-hand man, prime minister, counsellor,
+executioner, ready man at all things save the general good; a sort of
+harlequin Unyamwezi, who is such an intriguing, restless, unsatisfied
+person, that as soon as one hears that this kind of man forms one of and
+the chief of a Mgogo sultan's council, one feels very much tempted to
+do damage to his person. Most of the extortions practised upon the Arabs
+are suggested by these crafty renegades. Sheikh Hamed found that the
+Mnyamwezi was far more obdurate than the Sultan--nothing under nine
+doti first-class cloths would redeem the donkeys. The business that day
+remained unsettled, and the night following was, as one may imagine, a
+very sleepless one to Hamed. As it turned out, however, the loss of the
+donkeys, the after heavy fine, and the sleepless night, proved to be
+blessings in disguise; for, towards midnight, a robber Mgogo visited his
+camp, and while attempting to steal a bale of cloth, was detected in
+the act by the wide-awake and irritated Arab, and was made to vanish
+instantly with a bullet whistling in close proximity to his ear.
+
+From each of the principals of the caravans, the Mnyamwezi had received
+as tribute for his drunken master fifteen doti, and from the other
+six caravans six doti each, altogether fifty-one doti, yet on the next
+morning when we took the road he was not a whit disposed to deduct a
+single cloth from the fine imposed on Hamed, and the unfortunate Sheikh
+was therefore obliged to liquidate the claim, or leave his donkeys
+behind.
+
+After travelling through the corn-fields of Pembera Pereh we emerged
+upon a broad flat plain, as level as the still surface of a pond, whence
+the salt of the Wagogo is obtained. From Kanyenyi on the southern
+road, to beyond the confines of Uhumba and Ubanarama, this saline field
+extends, containing many large ponds of salt bitter water whose low
+banks are covered with an effervescence partaking of the nature of
+nitrate. Subsequently, two days afterwards, having ascended the elevated
+ridge which separates Ugogo from Uyanzi, I obtained a view of this
+immense saline plain, embracing over a hundred square miles. I may
+have been deceived, but I imagined I saw large expanses of greyish-blue
+water, which causes me to believe that this salina is but a corner of
+a great salt lake. The Wahumba, who are numerous, from Nyambwa to the
+Uyanzi border, informed my soldiers that there was a "Maji Kuba" away to
+the north.
+
+Mizanza, our next camp after Nyambwa, is situated in a grove of palms,
+about thirteen miles from the latter place. Soon after arriving I had
+to bury myself under blankets, plagued with the same intermittent fever
+which first attacked me during the transit of Marenga Mkali. Feeling
+certain that one day's halt, which would enable me to take regular doses
+of the invaluable sulphate of quinine, would cure me, I requested Sheikh
+Thani to tell Hamed to halt on the morrow, as I should be utterly unable
+to continue thus long, under repeated attacks of a virulent disease
+which was fast reducing me into a mere frame of skin and bone. Hamed, in
+a hurry to arrive at Unyanyembe in order to dispose of his cloth before
+other caravans appeared in the market, replied at first that he would
+not, that he could not, stop for the Musungu. Upon Thani's reporting his
+answer to me, I requested him to inform Hamed that, as the Musungu did
+not wish to detain him, or any other caravan, it was his express wish
+that Hamed would march and leave him, as he was quite strong enough in
+guns to march through Ugogo alone. Whatever cause modified the Sheikh's
+resolution and his anxiety to depart, Hamed's horn signal for the march
+was not heard that night, and on the morrow he had not gone.
+
+Early in the morning I commenced on my quinine doses; at 6 A.M. I took
+a second dose; before noon I had taken four more--altogether, fifty
+measured grains-the effect of which was manifest in the copious
+perspiration which drenched flannels, linen, and blankets. After noon I
+arose, devoutly thankful that the disease which had clung to me for the
+last fourteen days had at last succumbed to quinine.
+
+On this day the lofty tent, and the American flag which ever flew from
+the centre pole, attracted the Sultan of Mizanza towards it, and was the
+cause of a visit with which he honoured me. As he was notorious among
+the Arabs for having assisted Manwa Sera in his war against Sheikh
+Sny bin Amer, high eulogies upon whom have been written by Burton, and
+subsequently by Speke, and as he was the second most powerful chief in
+Ugogo, of course he was quite a curiosity to me. As the tent-door was
+uplifted that he might enter, the ancient gentleman was so struck with
+astonishment at the lofty apex, and internal arrangements, that the
+greasy Barsati cloth which formed his sole and only protection against
+the chills of night and the heat of noon, in a fit of abstraction was
+permitted to fall down to his feet, exposing to the Musungu's unhallowed
+gaze the sad and aged wreck of what must once have been a towering form.
+His son, a youth of about fifteen, attentive to the infirmities of his
+father, hastened with filial duty to remind him of his condition, upon
+which, with an idiotic titter at the incident, he resumed his scanty
+apparel and sat down to wonder and gibber out his admiration at the tent
+and the strange things which formed the Musungu's personal baggage and
+furniture. After gazing in stupid wonder at the table, on which was
+placed some crockery and the few books I carried with me; at the slung
+hammock, which he believed was suspended by some magical contrivance;
+at the portmanteaus which contained my stock of clothes, he ejaculated,
+"Hi-le! the Musungu is a great sultan, who has come from his country to
+see Ugogo." He then noticed me, and was again wonder-struck at my pale
+complexion and straight hair, and the question now propounded was, "How
+on earth was I white when the sun had burned his people's skins into
+blackness?" Whereupon he was shown my cork topee, which he tried on his
+woolly head, much to his own and to our amusement. The guns were next
+shown to him; the wonderful repeating rifle of the Winchester Company,
+which was fired thirteen times in rapid succession to demonstrate
+its remarkable murderous powers. If he was astonished before he was a
+thousand times more so now, and expressed his belief that the Wagogo
+could not stand before the Musungu in battle, for wherever a Mgogo was
+seen such a gun would surely kill him. Then the other firearms were
+brought forth, each with its peculiar mechanism explained, until, in, a
+burst of enthusiasm at my riches and power, he said he would send me a
+sheep or goat, and that he would be my brother. I thanked him for the
+honour, and promised to accept whatever he was pleased to send me. At
+the instigation of Sheikh Thani, who acted as interpreter, who said that
+Wagogo chiefs must not depart with empty hands, I cut off a shukka
+of Kaniki and presented it to him, which, after being examined and
+measured, was refused upon the ground that, the Musungu being a great
+sultan should not demean himself so much as to give him only a shukka.
+This, after the twelve doti received as muhongo from the caravans, I
+thought, was rather sore; but as he was about to present me with a sheep
+or goat another shukka would not matter much.
+
+Shortly after he departed, and true to his promise, I received a large,
+fine sheep, with a broad tail, heavy with fat; but with the words: "That
+being now his brother, I must send him three doti of good cloth." As the
+price of a sheep is but a doti and a half, I refused the sheep and the
+fraternal honour, upon the ground that the gifts were all on one side;
+and that, as I had paid muhongo, and given him a doti of Kaniki as a
+present, I could not, afford to part with any more cloth without an
+adequate return.
+
+During the afternoon one more of my donkeys died, and at night the
+hyaenas came in great numbers to feast upon the carcase. Ulimengo,
+the chasseur, and best shot of my Wangwana, stole out and succeeded in
+shooting two, which turned out to be some of the largest of their kind..
+One of them measured six feet from the tip of the nose to the extremity
+of the tail, and three feet around the girth.
+
+On the 4th. June we struck camp, and after travelling westward for about
+three miles, passing several ponds of salt water, we headed north by
+west, skirting the range of low hills which separates Ugogo from Uyanzi.
+
+After a three hours' march, we halted for a short time at Little
+Mukondoku, to settle tribute with the brother of him who rules at
+Mukondoku Proper. Three doti satisfied the Sultan, whose district
+contains but two villages, mostly occupied by pastoral Wahumba and
+renegade Wahehe. The Wahumba live in plastered (cow-dung) cone huts,
+shaped like the tartar tents of Turkestan.
+
+The Wahumba, so far as I have seen them, are a fine and well-formed
+race. The men are positively handsome, tall, with small heads, the
+posterior parts of which project considerably. One will look in vain for
+a thick lip or a flat nose amongst them; on the contrary, the mouth is
+exceedingly well cut, delicately small; the nose is that of the Greeks,
+and so universal was the peculiar feature, that I at once named them the
+Greeks of Africa. Their lower limbs have not the heaviness of the
+Wagogo and other tribes, but are long and shapely, clean as those of an
+antelope. Their necks are long and slender, on which their small heads
+are poised most gracefully. Athletes from their youth, shepherd bred,
+and intermarrying among themselves, thus keeping the race pure, any
+of them would form a fit subject for the sculptor who would wish to
+immortalize in marble an Antinous, a Hylas, a Daphnis, or an Apollo.
+The women are as beautiful as the men are handsome. They have clear ebon
+skins, not coal-black, but of an inky hue. Their ornaments consist of
+spiral rings of brass pendent from the ears, brass ring collars about
+the necks, and a spiral cincture of brass wire about their loins for the
+purpose of retaining their calf and goat skins, which are folded about
+their bodies, and, depending from the shoulder, shade one half of the
+bosom, and fall to the knees.
+
+The Wahehe may be styled the Romans of Africa. Resuming our march, after
+a halt of an hour, in foul hours more we arrived at Mukondoku Proper.
+This extremity of Ugogo is most populous, The villages which surround
+the central tembe, where the Sultan Swaruru lives, amount to thirty-six.
+The people who flocked from these to see the wonderful men whose faces
+were white, who wore the most wonderful things on their persons, and
+possessed the most wonderful weapons; guns which "bum-bummed" as fast as
+you could count on your fingers, formed such a mob of howling savages,
+that I for an instant thought there was something besides mere curiosity
+which caused such commotion, and attracted such numbers to the roadside.
+Halting, I asked what was the matter, and what they wanted, and why they
+made such noise? One burly rascal, taking my words for a declaration of
+hostilities, promptly drew his bow, but as prompt as he had fixed his
+arrow my faithful Winchester with thirteen shots in the magazine was
+ready and at the shoulder, and but waited to see the arrow fly to pour
+the leaden messengers of death into the crowd. But the crowd vanished as
+quickly as they had come, leaving the burly Thersites, and two or three
+irresolute fellows of his tribe, standing within pistol range of my
+levelled rifle. Such a sudden dispersion of the mob which, but a moment
+before, was overwhelming in numbers, caused me to lower my rifle, and
+to indulge in a hearty laugh at the disgraceful flight of the
+men-destroyers. The Arabs, who were as much alarmed at their boisterous
+obtrusiveness, now came up to patch a truce, in which they succeeded to
+everybody's satisfaction. A few words of explanation, and the mob came
+back in greater numbers than before; and the Thersites who had been the
+cause of the momentary disturbance was obliged to retire abashed before
+the pressure of public opinion. A chief now came up, whom I afterwards
+learned was the second man to Swaruru, and lectured the people upon
+their treatment of the "White Stranger."
+
+"Know ye not, Wagogo," shouted he, "that this Musungu is a sultan
+(mtemi--a most high title). He has not come to Ugogo like the Wakonongo
+(Arabs), to trade in ivory, but to see us, and give presents. Why do you
+molest him and his people? Let them pass in peace. If you wish to see
+him, draw near, but do not mock him. The first of you who creates a
+disturbance, let him beware; our great mtemi shall know how you treat
+his friends." This little bit of oratorical effort on the part of the
+chief was translated to me there and then by the old Sheik Thani; which
+having understood, I bade the Sheikh inform the chief that, after I had
+rested, I should like him to visit me in my tent.
+
+Having arrived at the khambi, which always surrounds some great baobab
+in Ugogo, at the distance of about half a mile from the tembe of the
+Sultan, the Wagogo pressed in such great numbers to the camp that Sheikh
+Thani resolved to make an effort to stop or mitigate the nuisance.
+Dressing himself in his best clothes, he went to appeal to the Sultan
+for protection against his people. The Sultan was very much inebriated,
+and was pleased to say, "What is it you want, you thief? You have come
+to steal my ivory or my cloth. Go away, thief!" But the sensible
+chief, whose voice had just been heard reproaching the people for their
+treatment of the Wasungu, beckoned to Thani to come out of the tembe,
+and then proceeded with him towards the khambi.
+
+The camp was in a great uproar; the curious Wagogo monopolized almost
+every foot of ground; there was no room to turn anywhere. The Wanyamwezi
+were quarreling with the Wagogo, the Wasawahili servants were clamoring
+loud that the Wagogo pressed down their tents, and that the property
+of the masters was in danger; while I, busy on my diary within my tent,
+cared not how great was the noise and confusion outside as long as it
+confined itself to the Wagogo, Wanyamwezi, and Wangwana.
+
+The presence of the chief in the camp was followed by a deep silence
+that I was prevailed upon to go outside to see what had caused it. The
+chief's words were few, and to the point. He said, "To your tembes,
+Wagogo--to your tembes! Why, do you come to trouble the Wakonongo: What
+have you to do with them? To your tembes: go! Each Mgogo found in the
+khambi without meal, without cattle to sell, shall pay to the mtemi
+cloth or cows. Away with you!" Saying which, he snatched up a stick and
+drove the hundreds out of the khambi, who were as obedient to him as so
+many children. During the two days we halted at Mukondoku we saw no more
+of the mob, and there was peace.
+
+The muhongo of the Sultan Swaruru was settled with few words. The chief
+who acted for the Sultan as his prime minister having been "made glad"
+with a doti of Rehani Ulyah from me, accepted the usual tribute of six
+doti, only one of which was of first-class cloth.
+
+There remained but one more sultan to whom muhongo must be paid after
+Mukondoku, and this was the Sultan of Kiwyeh, whose reputation was so
+bad that owners of property who had control over their pagazis seldom
+passed by Kiwyeh, preferring the hardships of long marches through
+the wilderness to the rudeness and exorbitant demands of the chief of
+Kiwyeh. But the pagazis, on whom no burden or responsibility fell save
+that of carrying their loads, who could use their legs and show clean
+heels in the case of a hostile outbreak, preferred the march to Kiwyeh
+to enduring thirst and the fatigue of a terekeza. Often the preference
+of the pagazis won the day, when their employers were timid, irresolute
+men, like Sheikh Hamed.
+
+The 7th of June was the day fixed for our departure from Mukondoku, so
+the day before, the Arabs came to my tent to counsel with me as to
+the route we should adopt. On calling together the kirangozis of the
+respective caravans and veteran Wanyamwezi pagazis, we learned there
+were three roads leading from Mukondoku to Uyanzi. The first was the
+southern road, and the one generally adopted, for the reasons already
+stated, and led by Kiwyeh. To this Hamed raised objections. "The Sultan
+was bad," he said; "he sometimes charged a caravan twenty doti; our
+caravan would have to pay about sixty doti. The Kiwyeh road would not do
+at all. Besides," he added, "we have to make a terekeza to reach Kiwyeh,
+and then we will not reach it before the day after to-morrow." The
+second was the central road. We should arrive at Munieka on the morrow;
+the day after would be a terekeza from Mabunguru Nullah to a camp near
+Unyambogi; two hours the next day would bring us to Kiti, where there
+was plenty of water and food. As neither of the kirangozis or Arabs
+knew this road, and its description came from one of my ancient pagazis,
+Hamed said he did not like to trust the guidance of such a large caravan
+in the hands of an old Mnyamwezi, and would therefore prefer to hear
+about the third road, before rendering his decision. The third road was
+the northern. It led past numerous villages of the Wagogo for the first
+two hours; then we should strike a jungle; and a three hours' march
+would then bring us to Simbo, where there was water, but no village.
+Starting early next morning, we would travel six hours when we would
+arrive at a pool of water. Here taking a short rest, an afternoon march
+of five hours would bring us within three hours of another village. As
+this last road was known to many, Hamed said, "Sheikh Thani, tell the
+Sahib that I think this is the best road." Sheikh Thani was told, after
+he had informed me that, as I had marched with them through Ugogo, if
+they decided upon going by Simbo, my caravan would follow.
+
+Immediately after the discussion among the principals respecting the
+merits of the several routes, arose a discussion among the pagazis which
+resulted in an obstinate clamor against the Simbo road, for its long
+terekeza and scant prospects of water, the dislike to the Simbo road
+communicated itself to all the caravans, and soon it was magnified by
+reports of a wilderness reaching from Simbo to Kusuri, where there was
+neither food nor water to be obtained. Hamed's pagazis, and those of
+the Arab servants, rose in a body and declared they could not go on that
+march, and if Hamed insisted upon adopting it they would put their packs
+down and leave him to carry them himself.
+
+Hamed Kimiani, as he was styled by the Arabs, rushed up to Sheikh Thani,
+and declared that he must take the Kiwyeh road, otherwise his pagazis
+would all desert. Thani replied that all the roads were the same to him,
+that wherever Hamed chose to go, he would follow. They then came to my
+tent, and informed me of the determination at which the Wanyamwezi had
+arrived. Calling my veteran Mnyamwezi, who had given me the favourable
+report once more to my tent, I bade him give a correct account of the
+Kiti road. It was so favourable that my reply to Hamed was, that I
+was the master of my caravan, that it was to go wherever I told the
+kirangozi, not where the pagazis chose; that when I told them to halt
+they must halt, and when I commanded a march, a march should be made;
+and that as I fed them well and did not overwork them, I should like to
+see the pagazi or soldier that disobeyed me. "You made up your mind just
+now that you would take the Simbo road, and we were agreed upon it, now
+your pagazis say they will take, the Kiwyeh road, or desert. Go on the
+Kiwyeh road and pay twenty doti muhongo. I and my caravan to-morrow
+morning will take the Kiti road, and when you find me in Unyanyembe one
+day ahead of you, you will be sorry you did not take the same road."
+
+This resolution of mine had the effect of again changing the current of
+Hamed's thoughts, for he instantly said, "That is the best road after
+all, and as the Sahib is determined to go on it, and we have all
+travelled together through the bad land of the Wagogo, Inshallah! let us
+all go the same way," and Thani=-good old man--not objecting, and Hamed
+having decided, they both joyfully went out of the tent to communicate
+the news.
+
+On the 7th the caravans--apparently unanimous that the Kiti road was to
+be taken--were led as usual by Hamed's kirangozi. We had barely gone a
+mile before I perceived that we had left the Simbo road, had taken the
+direction of Kiti, and, by a cunning detour, were now fast approaching
+the defile of the mountain ridge before us, which admitted access to the
+higher plateau of Kiwyeh. Instantly halting my caravan, I summoned the
+veteran who had travelled by Kiti, and asked him whether we were not
+going towards Kiwyeh. He replied that we were. Calling my pagazis
+together, I bade Bombay tell them that the Musuugu never changed his
+mind; that as I had said my caravan should march by Kiti; to Kiti it
+must go whether the Arabs followed or not. I then ordered the veteran
+to take up his load and show the kirangozi the proper road to Kiti.
+The Wanyamwezi pagazis put down their bales, and then there was every
+indication of a mutiny. The Wangwana soldiers were next ordered to load
+their guns and to flank the caravan, and shoot the first pagazis
+who made an attempt to run away. Dismounting, I seized my whip, and,
+advancing towards the first pagazi who had put down his load, I motioned
+to him to take up his load and march. It was unnecessary to proceed
+further; without an exception, all marched away obediently after the
+kirangozi. I was about bidding farewell to Thani, and Hamed, when Thani
+said, "Stop a bit, Sahib; I have had enough of this child's play; I come
+with you," and his caravan was turned after mine. Hamed's caravan was by
+this time close to the defile, and he himself was a full mile behind
+it, weeping like a child at what he was pleased to call our desertion of
+him. Pitying his strait--for he was almost beside himself as thoughts
+of Kiwyeh's sultan, his extortion and rudeness, swept across his mind--I
+advised him to run after his caravan, and tell it, as all the rest had
+taken the other road, to think of the Sultan of Kiwyeh. Before reaching
+the Kiti defile I was aware that Hamed's caravan was following us.
+
+The ascent of the ridge was rugged and steep, thorns of the prickliest
+nature punished us severely, the _acacia horrida_ was here more horrid
+than usual, the gums stretched out their branches, and entangled the
+loads, the mimosa with its umbrella-like top served to shade us from the
+sun, but impeded a rapid advance. Steep outcrops of syenite and granite,
+worn smooth by many feet, had to be climbed over, rugged terraces of
+earth and rock had to be ascended, and distant shots resounding through
+the forest added to the alarm and general discontent, and had I not
+been immediately behind my caravan, watchful of every manoeuvre, my
+Wanyamwezi had deserted to a man. Though the height we ascended was
+barely 800 feet above the salina we had just left, the ascent occupied
+two hours.
+
+Having surmounted the plateau and the worst difficulties, we had a fair
+road comparatively, which ran through jungle, forest, and small open
+tracts, which in three hours more brought us to Munieka, a small
+village, surrounded by a clearing richly cultivated by a colony of
+subjects of Swaruru of Mukondoku.
+
+By the time we had arrived at camp everybody had recovered his good
+humour and content except Hamed. Thani's men happened to set his tent
+too close to Hamed's tree, around which his bales were stacked. Whether
+the little Sheikh imagined honest old Thani capable of stealing one is
+not known, but it is certain that he stormed and raved about the near
+neighbourhood of his best friend's tent, until Thani ordered its removal
+a hundred yards off. This proceeding even, it seems, did not satisfy
+Hamed, for it was quite midnight--as Thani said--when Hamed came, and
+kissing his hands and feet, on his knees implored forgiveness, which of
+course Thani, being the soul of good-nature, and as large-hearted as any
+man, willingly gave. Hamed was not satisfied, however, until, with the
+aid of his slaves, he had transported his friend's tent to where it had
+at first been pitched.
+
+The water at Munieka was obtained from a deep depression in a hump of
+syenite, and was as clear as crystal, and' cold as ice-water--a luxury
+we had not experienced since leaving Simbamwenni.
+
+We were now on the borders of Uyanzi, or, as it is better known,
+"Magunda Mkali "--the Hot-ground, or Hot-field. We had passed the
+village populated by Wagogo, and were about to shake the dust of Ugogo
+from our feet. We had entered Ugogo full of hopes, believing it a
+most pleasant land--a land flowing with milk and honey. We had been
+grievously disappointed; it proved to be a land of gall and bitterness,
+full of trouble and vexation of spirit, where danger was imminent at
+every step--where we were exposed to the caprice of inebriated sultans.
+Is it a wonder, then, that all felt happy at such a moment? With the
+prospect before us of what was believed by many to be a real wilderness,
+our ardor was not abated, but was rather strengthened. The wilderness in
+Africa proves to be, in many instances, more friendly than the populated
+country. The kirangozi blew his kudu horn much more merrily on this
+morning than he was accustomed to do while in Ugogo. We were about to
+enter Magunda Mkali. At 9 A.M., three hours after leaving Munieka, and
+two hours since we had left the extreme limits of Ugogo, we were halted
+at Mabunguru Nullah. The Nullah runs southwesterly after leaving its
+source in the chain of hills dividing Ugogo from Magunda Mkali. During
+the rainy season it must be nearly impassable, owing to the excessive
+slope of its bed. Traces of the force of the torrent are seen in the
+syenite and basalt boulders which encumber the course. Their rugged
+angles are worn smooth, and deep basins are excavated where the bed is
+of the rock, which in the dry season serve as reservoirs. Though the
+water contained in them has a slimy and greenish appearance, and is well
+populated with frogs, it is by no means unpalatable.
+
+At noon we resumed our march, the Wanyamwezi cheering, shouting, and
+singing, the Wangwana soldiers, servants, and pagazis vieing with them
+in volume of voice and noise-making the dim forest through which we were
+now passing resonant with their voices.
+
+The scenery was much more picturesque than any we had yet seen since
+leaving Bagamoyo. The ground rose into grander waves--hills cropped out
+here and there--great castles of syenite appeared, giving a strange and
+weird appearance to the forest. From a distance it would almost seem as
+if we were approaching a bit of England as it must have appeared during
+feudalism; the rocks assumed such strange fantastic shapes. Now they
+were round boulders raised one above another, apparently susceptible to
+every breath of wind; anon, they towered like blunt-pointed obelisks,
+taller than the tallest trees; again they assumed the shape of mighty
+waves, vitrified; here, they were a small heap of fractured and riven
+rock; there, they rose to the grandeur of hills.
+
+By 5 P.M. we had travelled twenty miles, and the signal was sounded for
+a halt. At 1 A.M., the moon being up, Hamed's horn and voice were heard
+throughout the silent camp awaking his pagazis for the march. Evidently
+Sheikh Hamed was gone stark mad, otherwise why should he be so frantic
+for the march at such an early hour? The dew was falling heavily,
+and chilled one like frost; and an ominous murmur of deep discontent
+responded to the early call on all sides. Presuming, however, that he
+had obtained better information than we had, Sheikh Thani and I resolved
+to be governed as the events proved him to be right or wrong.
+
+As all were discontented, this night, march was performed in deep
+silence. The thermometer was at 53°, we being about 4,500 feet above the
+level of the sea. The pagazis, almost naked, walked quickly in order
+to keep warm, and by so doing many a sore foot was made by stumbling
+against obtrusive roots and rocks, and treading on thorns. At 3 A.M. we
+arrived at the village of Unyambogi, where we threw ourselves down to
+rest and sleep until dawn should reveal what else was in store for the
+hard-dealt-with caravans.
+
+It was broad daylight when I awoke; the sun was flaring his hot beams in
+my face. Sheikh Thani came soon after to inform me that Hamed had gone
+to Kiti two hours since; but he, when asked to accompany him, positively
+refused, exclaiming against it as folly, and utterly unnecessary. When
+my advice was asked by Thani, I voted the whole thing as sheer nonsense;
+and, in turn, asked him what a terekeza was for? Was it not an afternoon
+march to enable caravans to reach water and food? Thani replied than it
+was. I then asked him if there was no water or food to be obtained in
+Unyambogi. Thani replied that he had not taken pains to inquire, but
+was told by the villagers that there was an abundance of matamia, hindi,
+maweri, sheep; goats, and chickens in their village at cheap prices,
+such as were not known in Ugogo.
+
+"Well, then," said I, "if Hamed wants to be a fool, and kill his
+pagazis, why should we? I have as much cause for haste as Sheikh Hamed;
+but Unyanyembe is far yet, and I am not going to endanger my property by
+playing the madman."
+
+As Thani had reported, we found an abundance of provisions at the
+village, and good sweet water from some pits close by. A sheep cost one
+chukka; six chickens were also purchased at that price; six measures of
+matama, maweri, or hindi, were procurable for the same sum; in short, we
+were coming, at last, into the land of plenty.
+
+On the 10th June we arrived at Kiti after a journey of four hours and a
+half, where we found the irrepressible Hamed halted in sore trouble.
+He who would be a Caesar, proved to be an irresolute Antony. He had
+to sorrow over the death of a favourite slave girl, the loss of five
+dish-dashes (Arab shirts), silvered-sleeve and gold-embroidered jackets,
+with which he had thought to enter Unyanyembe in state, as became a
+merchant of his standing, which had disappeared with three absconding
+servants, besides copper trays, rice, and pilau dishes, and two bales of
+cloth with runaway Wangwana pagazis. Selim, my Arab servant, asked him,
+"What are you doing here, Sheikh Hamed? I thought you were well on the
+road to Unyanyembe." Said he, "Could I leave Thani, my friend, behind?"
+
+Kiti abounded in cattle and grain, and we were able to obtain food at
+easy rates. The Wakimbu, emigrants from Ukimbu, near Urori, are a quiet
+race, preferring the peaceful arts of agriculture to war; of tending
+their flocks to conquest. At the least rumor of war they remove their
+property and family, and emigrate to the distant wilderness, where they
+begin to clear the land, and to hunt the elephant for his ivory. Yet we
+found them to be a fine race, and well armed, and seemingly capable,
+by their numbers and arms, to compete with any tribe. But here, as
+elsewhere, disunion makes them weak. They are mere small colonies, each
+colony ruled by its own chief; whereas, were they united, they might
+make a very respectable front before an enemy.
+
+Our next destination was Msalalo, distant fifteen miles from Kiti.
+Hamed, after vainly searching for his runaways and the valuable property
+he had lost, followed us, and tried once more, when he saw us encamped
+at Msalalo, to pass us; but his pagazis failed him, the march having
+been so long.
+
+Welled Ngaraiso was reached on the 15th, after a three and a half hours'
+march. It is a flourishing little place, where provisions were almost
+twice as cheap as they were at Unyambogi. Two hours' march south is
+Jiweh la Mkoa, on the old road, towards which the road which we have
+been travelling since leaving Bagamoyo was now rapidly leading.
+
+Unyanyembe being near, the pagazis and soldiers having behaved
+excellently during the lengthy marches we had lately made, I purchased
+a bullock for three doti, and had it slaughtered for their special
+benefit. I also gave each a khete of red beads to indulge his appetite
+for whatever little luxury the country afforded. Milk and honey were
+plentiful, and three frasilah of sweet potatoes were bought for a
+shukka, equal to about 40 cents of our money.
+
+The 13th June brought us to the last village of Magunda Mkali, in the
+district of Jiweh la Singa, after a short march of eight miles and
+three-quarters. Kusuri--so called by the Arabs--is called Konsuli by the
+Wakimbu who inhabit it. This is, however, but one instance out of many
+where the Arabs have misnamed or corrupted the native names of villages
+and districts.
+
+Between Ngaraiso and Kusuri we passed the village of Kirurumo, now a
+thriving place, with many a thriving village near it. As we passed it,
+the people came out to greet the Musungu, whose advent had been so long
+heralded by his loud-mouthed caravans, and whose soldiers had helped
+them win the day in a battle against their fractious brothers of Jiweh
+la Mkoa.
+
+A little further on we came across a large khambi, occupied by Sultan
+bin Mohammed, an Omani Arab of high descent, who, as soon as he was
+notified of my approach, came out to welcome me, and invite me to his
+khambi. As his harem lodged in his tent, of course I was not invited
+thither; but a carpet outside was ready for his visitor. After the usual
+questions had been asked about my health, the news of the road, the
+latest from Zanzibar and Oman, he asked me if I had much cloth with
+me. This was a question often asked by owners of down caravans, and
+the reason of it is that the Arabs, in their anxiety to make as much
+as possible of their cloth at the ivory ports on the Tanganika and
+elsewhere, are liable to forget that they should retain a portion for
+the down marches. As, indeed, I had but a bale left of the quantity of
+cloth retained for provisioning my party on the road, when outfitting my
+caravans on the coast, I could unblushingly reply in the negative.
+
+I halted a day at Kusuri to give my caravan a rest, after its long
+series of marches, before venturing on the two days' march through the
+uninhabited wilderness that separates the district of Jiweh la Singa
+Uyanzi from the district of Tura in Unyanyembe. Hamed preceded,
+promising to give Sayd bin Salim notice of my coming, and to request him
+to provide a tembe for me.
+
+On the 15th, having ascertained that Sheikh Thani would be detained
+several days at Kusuri, owing to the excessive number of his people who
+were laid up with that dreadful plague of East Africa, the small-pox, I
+bade him farewell, and my caravan struck out of Kusuri once more for the
+wilderness and the jungle. A little before noon we halted at the Khambi
+of Mgongo Tembo, or the Elephant's Back--so called from a wave of rock
+whose back, stained into dark brownness by atmospheric influences, is
+supposed by the natives to resemble the blue-brown back of this monster
+of the forest. My caravan had quite an argument with me here, as to
+whether we should make the terekeza on this day or on the next. The
+majority was of the opinion that the next day would be the best for
+a terekeza; but I, being the "bana," consulting my own interests,
+insisted, not without a flourish or two of my whip, that the terekeza
+should be made on this day.
+
+Mgongo Tembo, when Burton and Speke passed by, was a promising
+settlement, cultivating many a fair acre of ground. But two years ago
+war broke out, for some bold act of its people upon caravans, and the
+Arabs came from Unyanyembe with their Wangwana servants, attacked them,
+burnt the villages, and laid waste the work of years. Since that time
+Mgongo Tembo has been but blackened wrecks of houses, and the fields a
+sprouting jungle.
+
+A cluster of date palm-trees, overtopping a dense grove close to the
+mtoni of Mgongo Tembo, revived my recollections of Egypt. The banks of
+the stream, with their verdant foliage, presented a strange contrast to
+the brown and dry appearance of the jungle which lay on either side.
+
+At 1 P.M. we resumed our loads and walking staffs, and in a short time
+were en route for the Ngwhalah Mtoni, distant eight and three-quarter
+miles from the khambi. The sun was hot; like a globe of living, seething
+flame, it flared its heat full on our heads; then as it descended
+towards the west, scorched the air before it was inhaled by the lungs
+which craved it. Gourds of water were emptied speedily to quench the
+fierce heat that burned the throat and lungs. One pagazi, stricken
+heavily with the small-pox, succumbed, and threw himself down on the
+roadside to die. We never saw him afterwards, for the progress of a
+caravan on a terekeza, is something like that of a ship in a hurricane.
+The caravan must proceed--woe befall him who lags behind, for hunger and
+thirst will overtake him--so must a ship drive before the fierce gale to
+escape foundering--woe befall him who falls overboard!
+
+An abundance of water, good, sweet, and cool, was found in the bed of
+the mtoni in deep stony reservoirs. Here also the traces of furious
+torrents were clearly visible as at Mabunguru.
+
+The Nghwhalah commences in Ubanarama to the north--a country famous for
+its fine breed of donkeys--and after running south, south-south-west,
+crosses the Unyanyembe road, from which point it has more of a westerly
+turn.
+
+On the 16th we arrived at Madedita, so called from a village which
+was, but is now no more. Madedita is twelve and a half miles from the
+Nghwhalah Mtoni. A pool of good water a few hundred yards from the
+roadside is the only supply caravans can obtain, nearer than Tura in
+Unyamwezi. The tsetse or chufwa-fly, as called by the Wasawahili, stung
+us dreadfully, which is a sign that large game visit the pool sometimes,
+but must not be mistaken for an indication that there is any in the
+immediate neighbourhood of the water. A single pool so often frequented
+by passing caravans, which must of necessity halt here, could not be
+often visited by the animals of the forest, who are shy in this part of
+Africa of the haunts of man.
+
+At dawn the neat day we were on the road striding at a quicker pace
+than on most days, since we were about to quit Magunda Mali for the more
+populated and better land of Unyamwezi. The forest held its own for
+a wearisomely long time, but at the end of two hours it thinned, then
+dwarfed into low jungle, and finally vanished altogether, and we
+had arrived on the soil of Unyamwezi, with a broad plain, swelling,
+subsiding, and receding in lengthy and grand undulations in our front
+to one indefinite horizontal line which purpled in the far distance. The
+view consisted of fields of grain ripening, which followed the contour
+of the plain, and which rustled merrily before the morning breeze that
+came laden with the chills of Usagara.
+
+At 8 A.M. we had arrived at the frontier village of Unyamwezi, Eastern
+Tura, which we invaded without any regard to the disposition of the few
+inhabitants who lived there. Here we found Nondo, a runaway of Speke's,
+one of those who had sided with Baraka against Bombay, who, desiring to
+engage himself with me, was engaging enough to furnish honey and sherbet
+to his former companions, and lastly to the pagazis. It was only a
+short breathing pause we made here, having another hour's march to reach
+Central Tura.
+
+The road from Eastern Tura led through vast fields of millet, Indian
+corn, holcus sorghum, maweri, or panicum, or bajri, as called by
+the Arabs; gardens of sweet potatoes, large tracts of cucumbers,
+water-melons, mush-melons, and pea-nuts which grew in the deep furrows
+between the ridges of the holcus.
+
+Some broad-leafed plantain plants were also seen in the neighbourhood of
+the villages, which as we advanced became very numerous. The villages of
+the Wakimbu are like those of the Wagogo, square, flat-roofed, enclosing
+an open area, which is sometimes divided into three or four parts by
+fences or matama stalks.
+
+At central Tura, where we encamped, we had evidence enough of the
+rascality of the Wakimbu of Tura. Hamed, who, despite his efforts to
+reach Unyanyembe in time to sell his cloths before other Arabs came with
+cloth supplies, was unable to compel his pagazis to the double march
+every day, was also encamped at Central Tura, together with the Arab
+servants who preferred Hamed's imbecile haste to Thani's cautious
+advance. Our first night in Unyamwezi was very exciting indeed. The
+Musungu's camp was visited by two crawling thieves, but they were soon
+made aware by the portentous click of a trigger that the white man's
+camp was well guarded.
+
+Hamed's camp was next visited; but here also the restlessness of
+the owner frustrated their attempts, for he was pacing backwards and
+forwards through his camp, with a loaded gun in his hand; and the
+thieves were obliged to relinquish the chance of stealing any of his
+bales. From Hamed's they proceeded to Hassan's camp (one of the Arab
+servants), where they were successful enough to reach and lay hold of a
+couple of bales; but, unfortunately, they made a noise, which awoke the
+vigilant and quick-eared slave, who snatched his loaded musket, and in a
+moment had shot one of them through the heart. Such were our experiences
+of the Wakimbu of Tura.
+
+On the 18th the three caravans, Hamed's, Hassan's, and my own, left Tura
+by a road which zig-zagged towards all points through the tall matama
+fields. In an hour's time we had passed Tura Perro, or Western Tura, and
+had entered the forest again, whence the Wakimbu of Tura obtain their
+honey, and where they excavate deep traps for the elephants with which
+the forest is said to abound. An hour's march from Western Tura brought
+us to a ziwa, or pond. There were two, situated in the midst of a small
+open mbuga, or plain, which, even at this late season, was yet soft
+from the water which overflows it during the rainy season. After resting
+three hours, we started on the terekeza, or afternoon march.
+
+It was one and the same forest that we had entered soon after leaving
+Western Tura, that we travelled through until we reached the Kwala
+Mtoni, or, as Burton has misnamed it on his map, "Kwale." The water of
+this mtoni is contained in large ponds, or deep depressions in the wide
+and crooked gully of Kwala. In these ponds a species of mud-fish, was
+found, off one of which I made a meal, by no means to be despised by one
+who had not tasted fish since leaving Bagamoyo. Probably, if I had my
+choice, being, when occasion demands it, rather fastidious in my tastes,
+I would not select the mud-fish.
+
+From Tura to the Kwala Mtoni is seventeen and a half miles, a distance
+which, however easy it may be traversed once a fortnight, assumes a
+prodigious length when one has to travel it almost every other day,
+at least, so my pagazis, soldiers, and followers found it, and their
+murmurs were very loud when I ordered the signal to be sounded on the
+march. Abdul Kader, the tailor who had attached himself to me, as a
+man ready-handed at all things, from mending a pair of pants, making
+a delicate entremets, or shooting an elephant, but whom the interior
+proved to be the weakliest of the weakly, unfit for anything except
+eating and drinking---almost succumbed on this march.
+
+Long ago the little stock of goods which Abdul had brought from Zanzibar
+folded in a pocket-handkerchief, and with which he was about to buy
+ivory and slaves, and make his fortune in the famed land of Unyamwezi,
+had disappeared with the great eminent hopes he had built on them, like
+those of Alnaschar the unfortunate owner of crockery in the Arabian
+tale. He came to me as we prepared for the march, with a most dolorous
+tale about his approaching death, which he felt in his bones, and
+weary back: his legs would barely hold him up; in short, he had utterly
+collapsed--would I take mercy on him, and let him depart? The cause of
+this extraordinary request, so unlike the spirit with which he had left
+Zanzibar, eager to possess the ivory and slaves of Unyamwezi, was that
+on the last long march, two of my donkeys being dead, I had ordered that
+the two saddles which they had carried should be Abdul Kader's load
+to Unyanyembe. The weight of the saddles was 16 lbs., as the spring
+balance-scale indicated, yet Abdul Kader became weary of life, as,
+he counted the long marches that intervened between the mtoni and
+Unyanyembe. On the ground he fell prone, to kiss my feet, begging me in
+the name of God to permit him to depart.
+
+As I had had some experience of Hindoos, Malabarese, and coolies
+in Abyssinia, I knew exactly how to deal with a case like this.
+Unhesitatingly I granted the request as soon as asked, for as much
+tired as Abdul Kader said he was of life, I was with Abdul Kader's
+worthlessness. But the Hindi did not want to be left in the jungle, he
+said, but, after arriving in Unyanyembe. "Oh," said I, "then you must
+reach Unyanyembe first; in the meanwhile you will carry those saddles
+there for the food which you must eat."
+
+As the march to Rubuga was eighteen and three-quarter miles, the pagazis
+walked fast and long without resting.
+
+Rubuga, in the days of Burton, according to his book, was a prosperous
+district. Even when we passed, the evidences of wealth and prosperity
+which it possessed formerly, were plain enough in the wide extent of its
+grain fields, which stretched to the right and left of the Unyanyembe
+road for many a mile. But they were only evidences of what once were
+numerous villages, a well-cultivated and populous district, rich in
+herds of cattle and stores of grain. All the villages are burnt down,
+the people have been driven north three or four days from Rubuga, the
+cattle were taken by force, the grain fields were left standing, to be
+overgrown with jungle and rank weeds. We passed village after village
+that had been burnt, and were mere blackened heaps of charred timber and
+smoked clay; field after field of grain ripe years ago was yet standing
+in the midst of a crop of gums and thorns, mimosa and kolquall.
+
+We arrived at the village, occupied by about sixty Wangwana, who have
+settled here to make a living by buying and selling ivory. Food is
+provided for them in the deserted fields of the people of Rubuga. We
+were very tired and heated from the long march, but the pagazis had all
+arrived by 3 p.m.
+
+At the Wangwana village we met Amer bin Sultan, the very type of an
+old Arab sheikh, such as we read of in books, with a snowy beard, and
+a clean reverend face, who was returning to Zanzibar after a ten years'
+residence in Unyanyembe. He presented me with a goat; and a goatskin
+full of rice; a most acceptable gift in a place where a goat costs five
+cloths.
+
+After a day's halt at Rubuga, during which I despatched soldiers
+to notify Sheikh Sayd bin Salim and Sheikh bin Nasib, the two chief
+dignitaries of Unyanyembe, of my coming, on the 21st of June we resumed
+the march for Kigwa, distant five hours. The road ran through another
+forest similar to that which separated Tura from Rubuga, the country
+rapidly sloping as we proceeded westward. Kigwa we found to have been
+visited by the same vengeance which rendered Rubuga such a waste.
+
+The next day, after a three and a half hours' rapid march, we crossed
+the mtoni--which was no mtoni--separating Kigwa from Unyanyembe
+district, and after a short halt to quench our thirst, in three and a
+half hours more arrived at Shiza. It was a most delightful march, though
+a long one, for its picturesqueness of scenery which every few minutes
+was revealed, and the proofs we everywhere saw of the peaceable and
+industrious disposition of the people. A short half hour from Shiza we
+beheld the undulating plain wherein the Arabs have chosen to situate the
+central depot which commands such wide and extensive field of trade. The
+lowing of cattle and the bleating of the goats and sheep were everywhere
+heard, giving the country a happy, pastoral aspect.
+
+The Sultan of Shiza desired me to celebrate my arrival in Unyanyembe,
+with a five-gallon jar of pombe, which he brought for that purpose.
+
+As the pombe was but stale ale in taste, and milk and water in colour,
+after drinking a small glassful I passed it to the delighted soldiers
+and pagazis. At my request the Sultan brought a fine fat bullock, for
+which he accepted four and a half doti of Merikani. The bullock was
+immediately slaughtered and served out to the caravan as a farewell
+feast.
+
+No one slept much that night, and long before the dawn the fires were
+lit, and great steaks were broiling, that their stomachs might rejoice
+before parting with the Musungu, whose bounty they had so often tasted.
+Six rounds of powder were served to each soldier and pagazi who owned
+a gun, to fire away when we should be near the Arab houses. The meanest
+pagazi had his best cloth about his loins, and some were exceedingly
+brave in gorgeous Ulyah "Coombeesa Poonga" and crimson "Jawah," the
+glossy "Rehani," and the neat "Dabwani." The soldiers were mustered in
+new tarbooshes, and the long white shirts of the Mrima and the Island.
+For this was the great and happy day which had been on our tongues ever
+since quitting the coast, for which we had made those noted marches
+latterly--one hundred and seventy-eight and a half miles in sixteen
+days, including pauses--something over eleven miles a day.
+
+The signal sounded and the caravan was joyfully off with banners flying,
+and trumpets and horns blaring. A short two and a half hours' march
+brought us within sight of Kwikuru, which is about two miles south of
+Tabora, the main Arab town; on the outside of which we saw a long line
+of men in clean shirts, whereat we opened our charged batteries, and
+fired a volley of small arms such as Kwikuru seldom heard before. The
+pagazis closed up and adopted the swagger of veterans: the soldiers
+blazed away uninterruptedly, while I, seeing that the Arabs were
+advancing towards me, left the ranks, and held out my hand, which was
+immediately grasped by Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, and then by about two
+dozen people, and thus our entrée into Unyanyembe was effected.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII. -- MY LIFE AND TROUBLES DURING MY RESIDENCE IN UNYAS
+NYEMBE. I BECOME ENGAGED IN A WAR.
+
+
+I received a noiseless ovation as I walked side by side with the
+governor, Sayd bin Salim, towards his tembe in Kwikuru, or the capital.
+The Wanyamwezi pagazis were out by hundreds, the warriors of Mkasiwa,
+the sultan, hovered around their chief, the children were seen between
+the legs of their parents, even infants, a few months old, slung over
+their mothers' backs, all paid the tribute due to my colour, with one
+grand concentrated stare. The only persons who talked with me were the
+Arabs, and aged Mkasiwa, ruler of Unyanyembe.
+
+Sayd bin Salim's house was at the north-western corner of the inclosure,
+a stockaded boma of Kwikuru. We had tea made in a silver tea-pot, and a
+bountiful supply of "dampers" were smoking under a silver cover; and
+to this repast I was invited. When a man has walked eight miles or so
+without any breakfast, and a hot tropical sun has been shining on him
+for three or four hours, he is apt to do justice to a meal, especially
+if his appetite is healthy. I think I astonished the governor by the
+dexterous way in which I managed to consume eleven cups of his aromatic
+concoction of an Assam herb, and the easy effortless style with which
+I demolished his high tower of "slap jacks," that but a minute or so
+smoked hotly under their silver cover.
+
+For the meal, I thanked the Sheikh, as only an earnest and sincerely
+hungry man, now satisfied, could thank him. Even if I had not spoken, my
+gratified looks had well informed him, under what obligations I had been
+laid to him.
+
+Out came my pipe and tobacco-pouch.
+
+"My friendly Sheikh, wilt thou smoke?"
+
+"No, thanks! Arabs never smoke."
+
+"Oh, if you don't, perhaps you would not object to me smoking, in order
+to assist digestion?"
+
+"Ngema--good--go on, master."
+
+Then began the questions, the gossipy, curious, serious, light
+questions:
+
+"How came the master?
+
+"By the Mpwapwa road."
+
+"It is good. Was the Makata bad?"
+
+"Very bad."
+
+"What news from Zanzibar?"
+
+"Good; Syed Toorkee has possession of Muscat, and Azim bin Ghis was
+slain in the streets."
+
+"Is this true, Wallahi?" (by God.)
+
+"It is true."
+
+"Heh-heh-h! This is news!"--stroking his beard.
+
+"Have you heard, master, of Suleiman bin Ali?"
+
+"Yes, the Bombay governor sent him to Zanzibar, in a man-of-war, and
+Suleiman bin Ali now lies in the gurayza (fort)."
+
+"Heh, that is very good."
+
+"Did you have to pay much tribute to the Wagogo?"
+
+"Eight times; Hamed Kimiani wished me to go by Kiwyeh, but I declined,
+and struck through the forest to Munieka. Hamed and Thani thought it
+better to follow me, than brave Kiwyeh by themselves."
+
+"Where is that Hajji Abdullah (Captain Burton) that came here, and
+Spiki?" (Speke.)
+
+"Hajji Abdullah! What Hajji Abdullah? Ah! Sheikh Burton we call him. Oh,
+he is a great man now; a balyuz (a consul) at El Scham" (Damascus.)
+
+"Heh-heh; balyuz! Heh, at El Scham! Is not that near Betlem el Kuds?"
+(Jerusalem.)
+
+"Yes, about four days. Spiki is dead. He shot himself by accident."
+
+"Ah, ah, Wallah (by God), but this is bad news. Spiki dead? Mash-Allah!
+Ough, he was a good man--a good man! Dead!"
+
+"But where is this Kazeh, Sheikh Sayd?"
+
+"Kazeh? Kazeh? I never heard the name before."
+
+"But you were with Burton, and Speke, at Kazeh; you lived there several
+months, when you were all stopping in Unyanyembe; it must be close here;
+somewhere. Where did Hajji Abdullah and Spiki live when they were in
+Unyanyembe? Was it not in Musa Mzuri's house?"
+
+"That was in Tabora."
+
+"Well, then, where is Kazeh? I have never seen the man yet who could
+tell me where that place is, and yet the three white men have that word
+down, as the name of the place they lived at when you were with them.
+You must know where it is."
+
+"Wallahi, bana, I never heard the name; but stop, Kazeh, in Kinyamwezi,
+means 'kingdom.' Perhaps they gave that name to the place they stopped
+at. But then, I used to call the first house Sny bin Amer's house, and
+Speke lived at Musa Mzuri's house, but both houses, as well as all the
+rest, are in Tabora."
+
+"Thank you, sheikh. I should like to go and look after my people; they
+must all be wanting food."
+
+"I shall go with you to show you your house. The tembe is in Kwihara,
+only an hour's walk from Tabora."
+
+On leaving Kwikuru we crossed a low ridge, and soon saw Kwihara
+lying between two low ranges of hills, the northernmost of which was
+terminated westward by the round fortress-like hill of Zimbili. There
+was a cold glare of intense sunshine over the valley, probably the
+effect of an universal bleakness or an autumnal ripeness of the grass,
+unrelieved by any depth of colour to vary the universal sameness. The
+hills were bleached, or seemed to be, under that dazzling sunshine,
+and clearest atmosphere. The corn had long been cut, and there lay the
+stubble, and fields,--a browny-white expanse; the houses were of mud,
+and their fiat roofs were of mud, and the mud was of a browny-whiteness;
+the huts were thatched, and the stockades around them of barked timber,
+and these were of a browny whiteness. The cold, fierce, sickly wind from
+the mountains of Usagara sent a deadly chill to our very marrows, yet
+the intense sunshiny glare never changed, a black cow or two, or a tall
+tree here and there, caught the eye for a moment, but they never made
+one forget that the first impression of Kwihara was as of a picture
+without colour, or of food without taste; and if one looked up, there
+was a sky of a pale blue, spotless, and of an awful serenity.
+
+As I approached the tembe of Sayd bin Salim, Sheikh bin Nasib and other
+great Arabs joined us. Before the great door of the tembe the men had
+stacked the bales, and piled the boxes, and were using their tongues
+at a furious rate, relating to the chiefs and soldiers of the first,
+second, and fourth caravans the many events which had befallen them, and
+which seemed to them the only things worth relating. Outside of their
+own limited circles they evidently cared for nothing. Then the several
+chiefs of the other caravans had in turn to relate their experiences
+of the road; and the noise of tongues was loud and furious. But as we
+approached, all this loud-sounding gabble ceased, and my caravan chiefs
+and guides rushed to me to hail me as "master," and to salute me as
+their friend. One fellow, faithful Baruti, threw himself at my feet, the
+others fired their guns and acted like madmen suddenly become frenzied,
+and a general cry of "welcome" was heard on all sides.
+
+"Walk in, master, this is your house, now; here are your men's quarters;
+here you will receive the great Arabs, here is the cook-house; here is
+the store-house; here is the prison for the refractory; here are
+your white man's apartments; and these are your own: see, here is the
+bedroom, here is the gun-room, bath-room, &c.;" so Sheikh Sayd talked,
+as he showed me the several places.
+
+On my honour, it was a most comfortable place, this, in Central Africa.
+One could almost wax poetic, but we will keep such ambitious ideas for
+a future day. Just now, however, we must have the goods stored, and the
+little army of carriers paid off and disbanded.
+
+Bombay was ordered to unlock the strong store-room, to pile the bales
+in regular tiers, the beads in rows one above another, and the wire in
+a separate place. The boats, canvas, &c., were to be placed high above
+reach of white ants, and the boxes of ammunition and powder kegs were to
+be stored in the gun-room, out of reach of danger. Then a bale of cloth
+was opened, and each carrier was rewarded according to his merits, that
+each of them might proceed home to his friends and neighbours, and tell
+them how much better the white man behaved than the Arabs.
+
+The reports of the leaders of the first, second, and fourth caravans
+were then received, their separate stores inspected, and the details and
+events of their marches heard. The first caravan had been engaged in
+a war at Kirurumo, and had come out of the fight successful, and had
+reached Unyanyembe without loss of anything. The second had shot a thief
+in the forest between Pembera Pereh and Kididimo; the fourth had lost a
+bale in the jungle of Marenga Mkali, and the porter who carried it had
+received a "very sore head" from a knob stick wielded by one of the
+thieves, who prowl about the jungle near the frontier of Ugogo. I was
+delighted to find that their misfortunes were no more, and each leader
+was then and there rewarded with one handsome cloth, and five doti of
+Merikani.
+
+Just as I began to feel hungry again, came several slaves in succession,
+bearing trays full of good things from the Arabs; first an enormous dish
+of rice, with a bowlful of curried chicken, another with a dozen huge
+wheaten cakes, another with a plateful of smoking hot crullers, another
+with papaws, another with pomegranates and lemons; after these came
+men driving five fat hump backed oxen, eight sheep, and ten goats, and
+another man with a dozen chickens, and a dozen fresh eggs. This was
+real, practical, noble courtesy, munificent hospitality, which quite
+took my gratitude by storm.
+
+My people, now reduced to twenty-five, were as delighted at the prodigal
+plenitude visible on my tables and in my yard, as I was myself. And as I
+saw their eyes light up at the unctuous anticipations presented to them
+by their riotous fancies, I ordered a bullock to be slaughtered and
+distributed.
+
+The second day of the arrival of the Expedition in the country which I
+now looked upon as classic ground, since Capts. Burton, Speke, and Grant
+years ago had visited it, and described it, came the Arab magnates from
+Tabora to congratulate me.
+
+Tabora* is the principal Arab settlement in Central Africa. It contains
+over a thousand huts and tembes, and one may safely estimate the
+population, Arabs, Wangwana, and natives, at five thousand people.
+Between Tabora and the next settlement, Kwihara, rise two rugged hill
+ridges, separated from each other by a low saddle, over the top of which
+Tabora is always visible from Kwihara. ________________ * There is no
+such recognised place as Kazeh. ________________
+
+They were a fine, handsome body of men, these Arabs. They mostly hailed
+from Oman: others were Wasawahili; and each of my visitors had quite a
+retinue with him. At Tabora they live quite luxuriously. The plain on
+which the settlement is situated is exceedingly fertile, though naked of
+trees; the rich pasturage it furnishes permits them to keep large herds
+of cattle and goats, from which they have an ample supply of milk,
+cream, butter, and ghee. Rice is grown everywhere; sweet potatoes,
+yams, muhogo, holcus sorghum, maize, or Indian corn, sesame, millet,
+field-peas, or vetches, called choroko, are cheap, and always
+procurable. Around their tembes the Arabs cultivate a little wheat for
+their own purposes, and have planted orange, lemon, papaw, and mangoes,
+which thrive here fairly well. Onions and garlic, chilies, cucumbers,
+tomatoes, and brinjalls, may be procured by the white visitor from the
+more important Arabs, who are undoubted epicureans in their way. Their
+slaves convey to them from the coast, once a year at least, their stores
+of tea, coffee sugar, spices, jellies, curries, wine, brandy, biscuits,
+sardines, salmon, and such fine cloths and articles as they require for
+their own personal use. Almost every Arab of any eminence is able to
+show a wealth of Persian carpets, and most luxurious bedding, complete
+tea and coffee-services, and magnificently carved dishes of tinned
+copper and brass lavers. Several of them sport gold watches and
+chains, mostly all a watch and chain of some kind. And, as in Persia,
+Afghanistan, and Turkey, the harems form an essential feature of every
+Arab's household; the sensualism of the Mohammedans is as prominent here
+as in the Orient.
+
+The Arabs who now stood before the front door of my tembe were the
+donors of the good things received the day before. As in duty bound, of
+course, I greeted Sheikh Sayd first, then Sheikh bin Nasib, his Highness
+of Zanzibar's consul at Karagwa, then I greeted the noblest Trojan
+amongst the Arab population, noblest in bearing, noblest in courage and
+manly worth--Sheikh Khamis bin Abdullah; then young Amram bin Mussoud,
+who is now making war on the king of Urori and his fractious people;
+then handsome, courageous Soud, the son of Sayd bin Majid; then
+dandified Thani bin Abdullah; then Mussoud bin Abdullah and his cousin
+Abdullah bin Mussoud, who own the houses where formerly lived Burton
+and Speke; then old Suliman Dowa, Sayd bin Sayf, and the old Hetman of
+Tabora--Sheikh Sultan bin Ali.
+
+As the visit of these magnates, under whose loving protection white
+travellers must needs submit themselves, was only a formal one, such as
+Arab etiquette, ever of the stateliest and truest, impelled them to, it
+is unnecessary to relate the discourse on my health, and their wealth,
+my thanks, and their professions of loyalty, and attachment to me. After
+having expended our mutual stock of congratulations and nonsense, they
+departed, having stated their wish that I should visit them at Tabora
+and partake of a feast which they were about to prepare for me.
+
+Three days afterwards I sallied out of my tembe, escorted by eighteen
+bravely dressed men of my escort, to pay Tabora a visit. On surmounting
+the saddle over which the road from the valley of Kwihara leads to
+Tabora, the plain on which the Arab settlement is situated lay before
+us, one expanse of dun pasture land, stretching from the base of the
+hill on our left as far as the banks of the northern Gombe, which a few
+miles beyond Tabora heave into purple-coloured hills and blue cones.
+
+Within three-quarters of an hour we were seated on the mud veranda of
+the tembe of Sultan bin Ali, who, because of his age, his wealth, and
+position--being a colonel in Seyd Burghash's unlovely army--is looked
+upon by his countrymen, high and low, as referee and counsellor. His
+boma or enclosure contains quite a village of hive-shaped huts and
+square tembes. From here, after being presented with a cup of Mocha
+coffee, and some sherbet, we directed our steps towards Khamis bin
+Abdullah's house, who had, in anticipation of my coming, prepared a
+feast to which he had invited his friends and neighbours. The group of
+stately Arabs in their long white dresses, and jaunty caps, also of a
+snowy white, who stood ready to welcome me to Tabora, produced quite
+an effect on my mind. I was in time for a council of war they were
+holding--and I was requested to attend.
+
+Khamis bin Abdullah, a bold and brave man, ever ready to stand up
+for the privileges of the Arabs, and their rights to pass through any
+countries for legitimate trade, is the man who, in Speke's 'Journal
+of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile,' is reported to have shot
+Maula, an old chief who sided with Manwa Sera during the wars of 1860;
+and who subsequently, after chasing his relentless enemy for five years
+through Ugogo and Unyamwezi as far as Ukonongo, had the satisfaction of
+beheading him, was now urging the Arabs to assert their rights against a
+chief called Mirambo of Uyoweh, in a crisis which was advancing.
+
+This Mirambo of Uyoweh, it seems, had for the last few years been in
+a state of chronic discontent with the policies of the neighbouring
+chiefs. Formerly a pagazi for an Arab, he had now assumed regal power,
+with the usual knack of unconscionable rascals who care not by what
+means they step into power. When the chief of Uyoweh died, Mirambo,
+who was head of a gang of robbers infesting the forests of Wilyankuru,
+suddenly entered Uyoweh, and constituted himself lord paramount by
+force. Some feats of enterprise, which he performed to the enrichment
+of all those who recognised his authority, established him firmly in
+his position. This was but a beginning; he carried war through Ugara to
+Ukonongo, through Usagozi to the borders of Uvinza, and after destroying
+the populations over three degrees of latitude, he conceived a grievance
+against Mkasiwa, and against the Arabs, because they would not sustain
+him in his ambitious projects against their ally and friend, with whom
+they were living in peace.
+
+The first outrage which this audacious man committed against the Arabs
+was the halting of an Ujiji-bound caravan, and the demand for five kegs
+of gunpowder, five guns, and five bales of cloth. This extraordinary
+demand, after expending more than a day in fierce controversy, was
+paid; but the Arabs, if they were surprised at the exorbitant black-mail
+demanded of them, were more than ever surprised when they were told to
+return the way they came; and that no Arab caravan should pass through
+his country to Ujiji except over his dead body.
+
+On the return of the unfortunate Arabs to Unyanyembe, they reported the
+facts to Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, the governor of the Arab colony. This
+old man, being averse to war, of course tried every means to induce
+Mirambo as of old to be satisfied with presents; but Mirambo this time
+was obdurate, and sternly determined on war unless the Arabs aided him
+in the warfare he was about to wage against old Mkasiwa, sultan of the
+Wanyamwezi of Unyanyembe.
+
+"This is the status of affairs," said Khamis bin Abdullah. "Mirambo
+says that for years he has been engaged in war against the neighbouring
+Washensi and has come out of it victorious; he says this is a great year
+with him; that he is going to fight the Arabs, and the Wanyamwezi of
+Unyanyembe, and that he shall not stop until every Arab is driven from
+Unyanyembe, and he rules over this country in place of Mkasiwa. Children
+of Oman, shall it be so? Speak, Salim, son of Sayf, shall we go to meet
+this Mshensi (pagan) or shall we return to our island?"
+
+A murmur of approbation followed the speech of Khamis bin Abdullah, the
+majority of those present being young men eager to punish the audacious
+Mirambo. Salim, the son of Sayf, an old patriarch, slow of speech, tried
+to appease the passions of the young men, scions of the aristocracy of
+Muscat and Muttrah, and Bedaweens of the Desert, but Khamis's bold words
+had made too deep an impression on their minds.
+
+Soud, the handsome Arab whom I have noticed already as the son of Sayd
+the son of Majid, spoke: "My father used to tell me that he remembered
+the days when the Arabs could go through the country from Bagamoyo to
+Ujiji, and from Kilwa to Lunda, and from Usenga to Uganda armed with
+canes. Those days are gone by. We have stood the insolence of the Wagogo
+long enough. Swaruru of Usui just takes from us whatever he wants; and
+now, here is Mirambo, who says, after taking more than five bales of
+cloth as tribute from one man, that no Arab caravan shall go to Ujiji,
+but over his body. Are we prepared to give up the ivory of Ujiji, of
+Urundi, of Karagwah, of Uganda, because of this one man? I say war--war
+until we have got his beard under our feet--war until the whole of
+Uyoweh and Wilyankuru is destroyed--war until we can again travel
+through any part of the country with only our walking canes in our
+hands!"
+
+The universal assent that followed Send's speech proved beyond a doubt
+that we were about to have a war. I thought of Livingstone. What if he
+were marching to Unyanyembe directly into the war country?
+
+Having found from the Arabs that they intended to finish the war
+quickly--at most within fifteen days, as Uyoweh was only four marches
+distant--I volunteered to accompany them, take my loaded caravan with me
+as far as Mfuto, and there leave it in charge of a few guards, and with
+the rest march on with the Arab army. And my hope was, that it might
+be possible, after the defeat of Mirambo, and his forest banditti--the
+Ruga-Ruga--to take my Expedition direct to Ujiji by the road now closed.
+The Arabs were sanguine of victory, and I partook of their enthusiasm.
+
+The council of war broke up. A great dishful of rice and curry, in
+which almonds, citron, raisins, and currants were plentifully mixed, was
+brought in, and it was wonderful how soon we forgot our warlike fervor
+after our attention had been drawn to this royal dish. I, of course,
+not being a Mohammedan, had a dish of my own, of a similar composition,
+strengthened by platters containing roast chicken, and kabobs, crullers,
+cakes, sweetbread, fruit, glasses of sherbet and lemonade, dishes
+of gum-drops and Muscat sweetmeats, dry raisins, prunes, and nuts.
+Certainly Khamis bin Abdullah proved to me that if he had a warlike soul
+in him, he could also attend to the cultivated tastes acquired under the
+shade of the mangoes on his father's estates in Zanzibar--the island.
+
+After gorging ourselves on these uncommon dainties some of the chief
+Arabs escorted me to other tembes of Tabora. When we went to visit
+Mussoud bin Abdullah, he showed me the very ground where Burton and
+Speke's house stood--now pulled down and replaced by his office--Sny
+bin Amer's house was also torn down, and the fashionable tembe of
+Unyanyembe, now in vogue, built over it,--finely-carved rafters--huge
+carved doors, brass knockers, and lofty airy rooms--a house built for
+defence and comfort.
+
+The finest house in Unyanyembe belongs to Amram bin Mussoud, who paid
+sixty frasilah of ivory--over $3,000--for it. Very fair houses can be
+purchased for from twenty to thirty frasilah of ivory. Amram's house is
+called the "Two Seas"--"Baherein." It is one hundred feet in length, and
+twenty feet high, with walls four feet thick, neatly plastered over with
+mud mortar. The great door is a marvel of carving-work for Unyanyembe
+artisans. Each rafter within is also carved with fine designs. Before
+the front of the house is a young plantation of pomegranate trees, which
+flourish here as if they were indigenous to the soil. A shadoof, such as
+may be seen on the Nile, serves to draw water to irrigate the gardens.
+
+Towards evening we walked back to our own finely situated tembe in
+Kwihara, well satisfied with what we had seen at Tabora. My men drove a
+couple of oxen, and carried three sacks of native rice--a most superior
+kind--the day's presents of hospitality from Khamis bin Abdullah.
+
+In Unyanyembe I found the Livingstone caravan, which started off in a
+fright from Bagamoyo upon the rumour that the English Consul was coming.
+As all the caravans were now halted at Unyanyembe because of the now
+approaching war, I suggested to Sayd bin Salim, that it were better that
+the men of the Livingstone caravan should live with mine in my tembe,
+that I might watch over the white man's goods. Sayd bin Salim agreed
+with me, and the men and goods were at once brought to my tembe.
+
+One day Asmani, who was now chief of Livingstone's caravan, the other
+having died of small-pox, two or three days before, brought out a tent
+to the veranda where, I was sitting writing, and shewed me a packet of
+letters, which to my surprise was marked:
+
+"To Dr. Livingstone,
+
+"Ujiji,
+
+"November 1st, 1870.
+
+"Registered letters."
+
+From November 1st, 1870, to February 10, 1871, just one hundred days,
+at Bagamoyo! A miserable small caravan of thirty-three men halting one
+hundred days at Bagamoyo, only twenty-five miles by water from Zanzibar!
+Poor Livingstone! Who knows but he maybe suffering for want of these
+very supplies that were detained so long near the sea. The caravan
+arrived in Unyanyembe some time about the middle of May. About the
+latter part of May the first disturbances took place. Had this caravan
+arrived here in the middle of March, or even the middle of April, they
+might have travelled on to Ujiji without trouble.
+
+On the 7th of July, about 2 P.M., I was sitting on the burzani as usual;
+I felt listless and languid, and a drowsiness came over me; I did not
+fall asleep, but the power of my limbs seemed to fail me. Yet the brain
+was busy; all my life seemed passing in review before me; when these
+retrospective scenes became serious, I looked serious; when they were
+sorrowful, I wept hysterically; when they were joyous, I laughed loudly.
+Reminiscences of yet a young life's battles and hard struggles came
+surging into the mind in quick succession: events of boyhood, of youth,
+and manhood; perils, travels, scenes, joys, and sorrows; loves and
+hates; friendships and indifferences. My mind followed the various and
+rapid transition of my life's passages; it drew the lengthy, erratic,
+sinuous lines of travel my footsteps had passed over. If I had drawn
+them on the sandy floor, what enigmatical problems they had been to
+those around me, and what plain, readable, intelligent histories they
+had been to me!
+
+The loveliest feature of all to me was the form of a noble, and
+true man, who called me son. Of my life in the great pine forests of
+Arkansas, and in Missouri, I retained the most vivid impressions. The
+dreaming days I passed under the sighing pines on the Ouachita's shores;
+the new clearing, the block-house, our faithful black servant, the
+forest deer, and the exuberant life I led, were all well remembered. And
+I remembered how one day, after we had come to live near the Mississipi,
+I floated down, down, hundreds of miles, with a wild fraternity of
+knurly giants, the boatmen of the Mississipi, and how a dear old man
+welcomed me back, as if from the grave. I remembered also my travels on
+foot through sunny Spain, and France, with numberless adventures in Asia
+Minor, among Kurdish nomads. I remembered the battle-fields of America
+and the stormy scenes of rampant war. I remembered gold mines, and broad
+prairies, Indian councils, and much experience in the new western
+lands. I remembered the shock it gave me to hear after my return from a
+barbarous country of the calamity that had overtaken the fond man whom
+I called father, and the hot fitful life that followed it. Stop!
+************
+
+Dear me; is it the 21st of July? Yes, Shaw informed me that it was the
+21st of July after I recovered from my terrible attack of fever; the
+true date was the 14th of July, but I was not aware that I had jumped a
+week, until I met Dr. Livingstone. We two together examined the Nautical
+Almanack, which I brought with me. We found that the Doctor was three
+weeks out of his reckoning, and to my great surprise I was also one week
+out, or one week ahead of the actual date. The mistake was made by
+my being informed that I had been two weeks sick, and as the day I
+recovered my senses was Friday, and Shaw and the people were morally
+sure that I was in bed two weeks, I dated it on my Diary the 21st of
+July. However, on the tenth day after the first of my illness, I was in
+excellent trim again, only, however, to see and attend to Shaw, who was
+in turn taken sick. By the 22nd July Shaw was recovered, then Selim was
+prostrated, and groaned in his delirium for four days, but by the 28th
+we were all recovered, and were beginning to brighten up at the prospect
+of a diversion in the shape of a march upon Mirambo's stronghold.
+
+The morning of the 29th I had fifty men loaded with bales, beads, and
+wire, for Ujiji. When they were mustered for the march outside the
+tembe, the only man absent was Bombay. While men were sent to search
+for him, others departed to get one more look, and one more embrace with
+their black Delilahs. Bombay was found some time about 2 P.M., his
+face faithfully depicting the contending passions under which he was
+labouring--sorrow at parting from the fleshpots of Unyanyembe--regret at
+parting from his Dulcinea of Tabora--to be, bereft of all enjoyment now,
+nothing but marches--hard, long marches--to go to the war--to be killed,
+perhaps, Oh! Inspired by such feelings, no wonder Bombay was inclined to
+be pugnacious when I ordered him to his place, and I was in a shocking
+bad temper for having been kept waiting from 8 A.M. to 2 P.M. for him.
+There was simply a word and a savage look, and my cane was flying around
+Bombay's shoulders, as if he were to be annihilated. I fancy that the
+eager fury of my onslaught broke his stubbornness more than anything
+else; for before I had struck him a dozen times he was crying for
+"pardon." At that word I ceased belaboring him, for this was the first
+time he had ever uttered that word. Bombay was conquered at last.
+
+"March!" and the guide led off, followed in solemn order by forty-nine
+of his fellows, every man carrying a heavy load of African moneys,
+besides his gun, hatchet, and stock of ammunition, and his ugali-pot. We
+presented quite an imposing sight while thus marching on in silence
+and order, with our flags flying, and the red blanket robes of the men
+streaming behind them as the furious north-easter blew right on our
+flank.
+
+The men seemed to feel they were worth seeing, for I noticed that
+several assumed a more martial tread as they felt their royal Joho cloth
+tugging at their necks, as it was swept streaming behind by the wind.
+Maganga, a tall Mnyamwezi, stalked along like a very Goliah about to
+give battle alone, to Mirambo and his thousand warriors. Frisky Khamisi
+paced on under his load, imitating a lion and there was the rude
+jester--the incorrigible Ulimengo--with a stealthy pace like a cat. But
+their silence could not last long. Their vanity was so much gratified,
+the red cloaks danced so incessantly before their eyes, that it would
+have been a wonder if they could have maintained such serious gravity or
+discontent one half hour longer.
+
+Ulimengo was the first who broke it. He had constituted himself the
+kirangozi or guide, and was the standard-bearer, bearing the American
+flag, which the men thought would certainly strike terror into the
+hearts of the enemy. Growing confident first, then valorous, then
+exultant, he suddenly faced the army he was leading, and shouted
+
+        "Hoy!  Hoy!
+Chorus.--Hoy! Hoy!
+
+         Hoy!  Hoy!
+Chorus.--Hoy! Hoy!
+
+         Hoy!  Hoy!
+Chorus.--Hoy! Hoy!
+
+         Where are ye going?
+Chorus.--Going to war.
+
+         Against whom?
+Chorus.--Against Mirambo.
+
+         Who is your master?
+Chorus.--The White Man.
+
+         Ough!  Ough!
+Chorus.--Ough! Ough!
+
+         Hyah!  Hyah!
+Chorus.--Hyah. Hyah!"
+
+This was the ridiculous song they kept up all day without intermission.
+
+We camped the first day at Bomboma's village, situated a mile to the
+south-west of the natural hill fortress of Zimbili. Bombay was quite
+recovered from his thrashing, and had banished the sullen thoughts that
+had aroused my ire, and the men having behaved themselves so well, a
+five-gallon pot of pombe was brought to further nourish the valour,
+which they one and all thought they possessed.
+
+The second day we arrived at Masangi. I was visited soon afterwards by
+Soud, the son of Sayd bin Majid, who told me the Arabs were waiting for
+me; that they would not march from Mfuto until I had arrived.
+
+Eastern Mfuto, after a six hours' march, was reached on the third day
+from Unyanyembe. Shaw gave in, laid down in the road, and declared he
+was dying. This news was brought to me about 4 P.M. by one of the last
+stragglers. I was bound to despatch men to carry him to me, into my
+camp, though every man was well tired after the long march. A reward
+stimulated half-a-dozen to venture into the forest just at dusk to find
+Shaw, who was supposed to be at least three hours away from camp.
+
+About two o'clock in the morning my men returned, having carried Shaw on
+their backs the entire distance. I was roused up, and had him conveyed
+to my tent. I examined him, and I assured myself he was not suffering
+from fever of any kind; and in reply to my inquiries as to how he
+felt, he said he could neither walk nor ride, that he felt such extreme
+weakness and lassitude that he was incapable of moving further. After
+administering a glass of port wine to him in a bowlful of sago gruel, we
+both fell asleep.
+
+We arrived early the following morning at Mfuto, the rendezvous of the
+Arab army. A halt was ordered the next day, in order to make ourselves
+strong by eating the beeves, which we freely slaughtered.
+
+The personnel of our army was as follows:
+
+Sheikh Sayd bin Salim...... 25 half caste
+
+  "    Khamis bin Abdullah....  250 slaves
+
+  "    Thani bin Abdullah....    80   "
+
+  "    Mussoud bin Abdullah....  75   "
+
+  "    Abdullah bin Mussoud....  80   "
+
+  "    Ali bin Sayd bin Nasib...  250   "
+
+  "    Nasir bin Mussoud.....  50   "
+
+  "    Hamed Kimiami......   70   "
+
+  "    Hamdam........   30   "
+
+
+  "    Sayd bin Habib......  50   "
+
+  "    Salim bin Sayf.....    100   "
+
+  "    Sunguru........  25    "
+
+  "    Sarboko........  25    "
+
+  "    Soud bin Sayd bin Majid...  50    "
+
+  "    Mohammed bin Mussoud....  30    "
+
+  "    Sayd bin Hamed...... 90    "
+
+  "    The 'Herald' Expedition...  50 soldiers
+
+  "    Mkasiwa's Wanyamwezi...   800    "
+
+  "    Half-castes and Wangwana..  125    "
+
+  "    Independent chiefs and their
+       followers.......  300    "
+
+These made a total of 2,255, according to numbers given me by Thani bin
+Abdullah, and corroborated by a Baluch in the pay of Sheikh bin Nasib.
+Of these men 1,500 were armed with guns--flint-lock muskets, German
+and French double-barrels, some English Enfields, and American
+Springfields--besides these muskets, they were mostly armed with spears
+and long knives for the purpose of decapitating, and inflicting vengeful
+gashes in the dead bodies. Powder and ball were plentiful: some men were
+served a hundred rounds each, my people received each man sixty rounds.
+
+As we filed out of the stronghold of Mfuto, with waving banners denoting
+the various commanders, with booming horns, and the roar of fifty bass
+drums, called gomas--with blessings showered on us by the mollahs,
+and happiest predications from the soothsayers, astrologers, and the
+diviners of the Koran--who could have foretold that this grand force,
+before a week passed over its head, would be hurrying into that same
+stronghold of Mfuto, with each man's heart in his mouth from fear?
+
+The date of our leaving Mfuto for battle with Mirambo was the 3rd of
+August. All my goods were stored in Mfuto, ready for the march to Ujiji,
+should we be victorious over the African chief, but at least for safety,
+whatever befel us.
+
+Long before we reached Umanda, I was in my hammock in the paroxysms of
+a fierce attack of intermittent fever, which did not leave me until late
+that night.
+
+At Umanda, six hours from Mfuto, our warriors bedaubed themselves with
+the medicine which the wise men had manufactured for them--a compound
+of matama flour mixed with the juices of a herb whose virtues were only
+known to the Waganga of the Wanyamwezi.
+
+At 6 A.M. on the 4th of August we were once more prepared for the road,
+but before we were marched out of the village, the "manneno," or speech,
+was delivered by the orator of the Wanyamwezi:
+
+"Words! words! words! Listen, sons of Mkasiwa, children of Unyamwezi!
+the journey is before you, the thieves of the forest are waiting; yes,
+they are thieves, they cut up your caravans, they steal your ivory, they
+murder your women. Behold, the Arabs are with you, El Wali of the Arab
+sultan, and the white man are with you. Go, the son of Mkasiwa is with
+you; fight; kill, take slaves, take cloth, take cattle, kill, eat, and
+fill yourselves! Go!"
+
+A loud, wild shout followed this bold harangue, the gates of the
+village were thrown open, and blue, red, and white-robed soldiers were
+bounding upward like so many gymnasts; firing their guns incessantly, in
+order to encourage themselves with noise, or to strike terror into the
+hearts of those who awaited us within the strong enclosure of Zimbizo,
+Sultan Kolongo's place.
+
+As Zimbizo was distant only five hours from Umanda, at 11 A.M. we came
+in view of it. We halted on the verge of the cultivated area around it
+and its neighbours within the shadow of the forest. Strict orders had
+been given by the several chiefs to their respective commands not to
+fire, until they were within shooting distance of the boma.
+
+Khamis bin Abdullah crept through the forest to the west of the village.
+The Wanyamwezi took their position before the main gateway, aided by the
+forces of Soud the son of Sayd on the right, and the son of Habib on
+the left, Abdullah, Mussoud, myself, and others made ready to attack
+the eastern gates, which arrangement effectually shut them in, with the
+exception of the northern side.
+
+Suddenly, a volley opened on us as we emerged from the forest along the
+Unyanyembe road, in the direction they had been anticipating the sight
+of an enemy, and immediately the attacking forces began their firing in
+most splendid style. There were some ludicrous scenes of men pretending
+to fire, then jumping off to one side, then forward, then backward,
+with the agility of hopping frogs, but the battle was none the less in
+earnest. The breech-loaders of my men swallowed my metallic cartridges
+much faster than I liked to see; but happily there was a lull in the
+firing, and we were rushing into the village from the west, the south,
+the north, through the gates and over the tall palings that surrounded
+the village, like so many Merry Andrews; and the poor villagers were
+flying from the enclosure towards the mountains, through the northern
+gate, pursued by the fleetest runners of our force, and pelted in the
+back by bullets from breech-loaders and shot-guns.
+
+The village was strongly defended, and not more than twenty dead
+bodies were found in it, the strong thick wooden paling having afforded
+excellent protection against our bullets.
+
+From Zimbizo, after having left a sufficient force within, we sallied
+out, and in an hour had cleared the neighbourhood of the enemy, having
+captured two other villages, which we committed to the flames, after
+gutting them of all valuables. A few tusks of ivory, and about fifty
+slaves, besides an abundance of grain, composed the "loot," which fell
+to the lot of the Arabs.
+
+On the 5th, a detachment of Arabs and slaves, seven hundred strong,
+scoured the surrounding country, and carried fire and devastation up to
+the boma of Wilyankuru.
+
+On the 6th, Soud bin Sayd and about twenty other young Arabs led a force
+of five hundred men against Wilyankuru itself, where it was supposed
+Mirambo was living. Another party went out towards the low wooded hills,
+a short distance north of Zimbizo, near which place they surprised a
+youthful forest thief asleep, whose head they stretched backwards, and
+cut it off as though he were a goat or a sheep. Another party sallied
+out southward, and defeated a party of Mirambo's "bush-whackers," news
+of which came to our ears at noon.
+
+In the morning I had gone to Sayd bin Salim's tembe, to represent to him
+how necessary it was to burn the long grass in the forest of Zimbizo,
+lest it might hide any of the enemy; but soon afterwards I had been
+struck down with another attack of intermittent fever, and was obliged
+to turn in and cover myself with blankets to produce perspiration; but
+not, however, till I had ordered Shaw and Bombay not to permit any of my
+men to leave the camp. But I was told soon afterwards by Selim that more
+than one half had gone to the attack on Wilyankuru with Soud bin Sayd.
+
+About 6 P.M. the entire camp of Zimbizo was electrified with the news
+that all the Arabs who had accompanied Soud bin Sayd had been killed;
+and that more than one-half of his party had been slain. Some of my own
+men returned, and from them I learned that Uledi, Grant's former valet,
+Mabruki Khatalabu (Killer of his father), Mabruki (the Little), Baruti
+of Useguhha, and Ferahan had been killed. I learned also that they had
+succeeded in capturing Wilyankuru in a very short time, that Mirambo
+and his son were there, that as they succeeded in effecting an entrance,
+Mirambo had collected his men, and after leaving the village, had formed
+an ambush in the grass, on each side of the road, between Wilyankuru and
+Zimbizo, and that as the attacking party were returning home laden with
+over a hundred tusks of ivory, and sixty bales of cloth, and two or
+three hundred slaves, Mirambo's men suddenly rose up on each side of
+them, and stabbed them with their spears. The brave Soud had fired his
+double-barrelled gun and shot two men, and was in the act of loading
+again when a spear was launched, which penetrated through and through
+him: all the other Arabs shared the same fate. This sudden attack from
+an enemy they believed to be conquered so demoralized the party that,
+dropping their spoil, each man took to his heels, and after making
+a wide detour through the woods, returned to Zimbizo to repeat the
+dolorous tale.
+
+The effect of this defeat is indescribable. It was impossible to sleep,
+from the shrieks of the women whose husbands had fallen. All night they
+howled their lamentations, and sometimes might be heard the groans of
+the wounded who had contrived to crawl through the grass unperceived by
+the enemy. Fugitives were continually coming in throughout the night,
+but none of my men who were reported to be dead, were ever heard of
+again.
+
+The 7th was a day of distrust, sorrow, and retreat; the Arabs accused
+one another for urging war without expending all peaceful means first.
+There were stormy councils of war held, wherein were some who proposed
+to return at once to Unyanyembe, and keep within their own houses; and
+Khamis bin Abdullah raved, like an insulted monarch, against the abject
+cowardice of his compatriots. These stormy meetings and propositions
+to retreat were soon known throughout the camp, and assisted more than
+anything else to demoralize completely the combined forces of Wanyamwezi
+and slaves. I sent Bombay to Sayd bin Salim to advise him not to think
+of retreat, as it would only be inviting Mirambo to carry the war to
+Unyanyembe.
+
+After, despatching Bombay with this message, I fell asleep, but about
+1.30 P.M. I was awakened by Selim saying, "Master, get up, they are all
+running away, and Khamis bin Abdullah is himself going."
+
+With the aid of Selim I dressed myself, and staggered towards the door.
+My first view was of Thani bin Abdullah being dragged away, who, when he
+caught sight of me, shouted out "Bana--quick--Mirambo is coming." He
+was then turning to run, and putting on his jacket, with his eyes almost
+starting out of their sockets with terror. Khamis bin Abdullah was also
+about departing, he being the last Arab to leave. Two of my men were
+following him; these Selim was ordered to force back with a revolver.
+Shaw was saddling his donkey with my own saddle, preparatory to giving
+me the slip, and leaving me in the lurch to the tender mercies of
+Mirambo. There were only Bombay, Mabruki Speke, Chanda who was coolly
+eating his dinner, Mabruk Unyauyembe, Mtamani, Juma, and Sarmean---only
+seven out of fifty. All the others had deserted, and were by this time
+far away, except Uledi (Manwa Sera) and Zaidi, whom Selim brought back
+at the point of a loaded revolver. Selim was then told to saddle my
+donkey, and Bombay to assist Shaw to saddle his own. In a few moments we
+were on the road, the men ever looking back for the coming enemy; they
+belabored the donkeys to some purpose, for they went at a hard trot,
+which caused me intense pain. I would gladly have lain down to die, but
+life was sweet, and I had not yet given up all hope of being able to
+preserve it to the full and final accomplishment of my mission. My mind
+was actively at work planning and contriving during the long lonely
+hours of night, which we employed to reach Mfuto, whither I found the
+Arabs had retreated. In the night Shaw tumbled off his donkey, and would
+not rise, though implored to do so. As I did not despair myself, so I
+did not intend that Shaw should despair. He was lifted on his animal,
+and a man was placed on each side of him to assist him; thus we rode
+through the darkness. At midnight we reached Mfuto safely, and were at
+once admitted into the village, from which we had issued so valiantly,
+but to which we were now returned so ignominiously.
+
+I found all my men had arrived here before dark. Ulimengo, the bold
+guide who had exulted in his weapons and in our numbers, and was so
+sanguine of victory, had performed the eleven hours' march in six hours;
+sturdy Chowpereh, whom I regarded as the faithfullest of my people, had
+arrived only half an hour later than Ulimengo; and frisky Khamisi, the
+dandy--the orator--the rampant demagogue--yes--he had come third; and
+Speke's "Faithfuls" had proved as cowardly as any poor "nigger" of them
+all. Only Selim was faithful.
+
+I asked Selim, "Why did you not also run away, and leave your master to
+die?"
+
+"Oh, sir," said the Arab boy, naively, "I was afraid you would whip me."
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX. -- MY LIFE AND TROUBLES IN UNYANYEMBE-(continued).
+
+
+It never occurred to the Arab magnates that I had cause of complaint
+against them, or that I had a right to feel aggrieved at their conduct,
+for the base desertion of an ally, who had, as a duty to friendship,
+taken up arms for their sake. Their "salaams" the next morning after the
+retreat, were given as if nothing had transpired to mar the good feeling
+that had existed between us.
+
+They were hardly seated, however, before I began to inform them that as
+the war was only between them and Mirambo, and that as I was afraid, if
+they were accustomed to run away after every little check, that the war
+might last a much longer time than I could afford to lose; and that
+as they had deserted their wounded on the field, and left their sick
+friends to take care of themselves, they must not consider me in the
+light of an ally any more. "I am satisfied," said I, "having seen your
+mode of fighting, that the war will not be ended in so short a time as
+you think it will. It took you five years, I hear, to conquer and kill
+Manwa Sera, you will certainly not conquer Mirambo in less than a year.*
+I am a white man, accustomed to wars after a different style, I know
+something about fighting, but I never saw people run away from an
+encampment like ours at Zimbizo for such slight cause as you had. By
+running away, you have invited Mirambo to follow you to Unyanyembe; you
+may be sure he will come." __________________ * The same war is still
+raging, April, 1874. __________________
+
+The Arabs protested one after another that they had not intended to
+have left me, but the Wanyamwezi of Mkasiwa had shouted out that the
+"Musungu" was gone, and the cry had caused a panic among their people,
+which it was impossible to allay.
+
+Later that day the Arabs continued their retreat to Tabora; which
+is twenty-two miles distant from Mfuto. I determined to proceed more
+leisurely, and on the second day after the flight from Zimbizo, the
+Expedition, with all the stores and baggage, marched back to Masangi,
+and on the third day to Kwihara.
+
+The following extracts from my Diary will serve to show better than
+anything else, my feelings and thoughts about this time, after our
+disgraceful retreat:
+
+Kwihara. Friday, 11th August, 1871.--Arrived to-day from Zimbili,
+village of Bomboma's. I am quite disappointed and almost disheartened.
+But I have one consolation, I have done my duty by the Arabs, a duty I
+thought I owed to the kindness they received me with, now, however, the
+duty is discharged, and I am free to pursue my own course. I feel
+happy, for some reasons, that the duty has been paid at such a slight
+sacrifice. Of course if I had lost my life in this enterprise, I should
+have been justly punished. But apart from my duty to the consideration
+with which the Arabs had received me, was the necessity of trying every
+method of reaching Livingstone. This road which the war with Mirambo has
+closed, is only a month's march from this place, and, if the road could
+be opened with my aid, sooner than without it, why should I refuse my
+aid? The attempt has been made for the second time to Ujiji--both have
+failed. I am going to try another route; to attempt to go by the north
+would be folly. Mirambo's mother and people, and the Wasui, are between
+me and Ujiji, without including the Watuta, who are his allies, and
+robbers. The southern route seems to be the most practicable one.
+Very few people know anything of the country south; those whom I have
+questioned concerning it speak of "want of water" and robber Wazavira,
+as serious obstacles; they also say that the settlements are few and far
+between.
+
+But before I can venture to try this new route, I have to employ a new
+set of men, as those whom I took to Mfuto consider their engagements at
+an end, and the fact of five of their number being killed rather damps
+their ardor for travelling. It is useless to hope that Wanyamwezi can
+be engaged, because it is against their custom to go with caravans, as
+carriers, during war time. My position is most serious. I have a good
+excuse for returning to the coast, but my conscience will not permit me
+to do so, after so much money has been expended, and so much confidence
+has been placed in me. In fact, I feel I must die sooner than return.
+
+Saturday, August 12th.--My men, as I supposed they would, have gone;
+they said that I engaged them to go, to Ujiji by Mirambo's road. I have
+only thirteen left.
+
+With this small body of men, whither can I go? I have over one hundred
+loads in the storeroom. Livingstone's caravan is also here; his goods
+consist of seventeen bales of cloth, twelve boxes, and six bags of
+beads. His men are luxuriating upon the best the country affords.
+
+If Livingstone is at Ujiji, he is now locked up with small means of
+escape. I may consider myself also locked up at Unyamyembe, and I
+suppose cannot go to Ujiji until this war with Mirambo is settled.
+Livingstone cannot get his goods, for they are here with mine. He cannot
+return to Zanzibar, and the road to the Nile is blocked up. He might,
+if he has men and stores, possibly reach Baker by travelling northwards,
+through Urundi, thence through Ruanda, Karagwah, Uganda, Unyoro, and
+Ubari to Gondokoro. Pagazis he cannot obtain, for the sources whence a
+supply might be obtained are closed. It is an erroneous supposition to
+think that Livingstone, any more than any other energetic man of his
+calibre, can travel through Africa without some sort of an escort, and a
+durable supply of marketable cloth and beads.
+
+I was told to-day by a man that when Livingstone was coming from Nyassa
+Lake towards the Tanganika (the very time that people thought him
+murdered) he was met by Sayd bin Omar's caravan, which was bound for
+Ulamba. He was travelling with Mohammed bin Gharib. This Arab, who was
+coming from Urunga, met Livingstone at Chi-cumbi's, or Kwa-chi-kumbi's,
+country, and travelled with him afterwards, I hear, to Manyuema or
+Manyema. Manyuema is forty marches from the north of Nyassa. Livingstone
+was walking; he was dressed in American sheeting. He had lost all his
+cloth in Lake Liemba while crossing it in a boat. He had three canoes
+with him; in one he put his cloth, another he loaded with his boxes and
+some of his men, into the third he went himself with two servants and
+two fishermen. The boat with his cloth was upset. On leaving Nyassa,
+Livingstone went to Ubisa, thence to Uemba, thence to Urungu.
+Livingstone wore a cap. He had a breech-loading double-barreled rifle
+with him, which fired fulminating balls. He was also armed with two
+revolvers. The Wahiyow with Livingstone told this man that their master
+had many men with him at first, but that several had deserted him.
+
+August 13th.--A caravan came in to-day from the seacoast. They reported
+that William L. Farquhar, whom I left sick at Mpwapwa, Usagara, and
+his cook, were dead. Farquhar, I was told, died a few days after I had
+entered Ugogo, his cook died a few weeks later. My first impulse was for
+revenge. I believed that Leukole had played me false, and had poisoned
+him, or that he had been murdered in some other manner; but a personal
+interview with the Msawahili who brought the news informing me that
+Farquhar had succumbed to his dreadful illness has done away with that
+suspicion. So far as I could understand him, Farquhar had in the morning
+declared himself well enough to proceed, but in attempting to rise, had
+fallen backward and died. I was also told that the Wasagara, possessing
+some superstitious notions respecting the dead, had ordered Jako to
+take the body out for burial, that Jako, not being able to carry it,
+had dragged the body to the jungle, and there left it naked without the
+slightest covering of earth, or anything else.
+
+"There is one of us gone, Shaw, my boy! Who will be the next?" I
+remarked that night to my companion.
+
+August 14th.--Wrote some letters to Zanzibar. Shaw was taken very ill
+last night.
+
+August 19th. Saturday.--My soldiers are employed stringing beads.
+Shaw is still a-bed. We hear that Mirambo is coming to Unyanyembe.
+A detachment of Arabs and their slaves have started this morning to
+possess themselves of the powder left there by the redoubtable Sheikh
+Sayd bin Salim, the commander-in-chief of the Arab settlements.
+
+August 21st. Monday.--Shaw still sick. One hundred fundo of beads have
+been strung. The Arabs are preparing for another sally against Mirambo.
+The advance of Mirambo upon Unyanyembe was denied by Sayd bin Salim,
+this morning.
+
+August 22nd.--We were stringing beads this morning, when, about 10 A.M.,
+we heard a continued firing from the direction of Tabora. Rushing out
+from our work to the front door facing Tabora, we heard considerable
+volleying, and scattered firing, plainly; and ascending to the top of my
+tembe, I saw with my glasses the smoke of the guns. Some of my men
+who were sent on to ascertain the cause came running back with the
+information that Mirambo had attacked Tabora with over two thousand men,
+and that a force of over one thousand Watuta, who had allied themselves
+with him for the sake of plunder, had come suddenly upon Tabora,
+attacking from opposite directions.
+
+Later in the day, or about noon, watching the low saddle over which we
+could see Tabora, we saw it crowded with fugitives from that settlement,
+who were rushing to our settlement at Kwihara for protection. From these
+people we heard the sad information that the noble Khamis bin Abdullah,
+his little protege, Khamis, Mohammed bin Abdullah, Ibrahim bin Rashid,
+and Sayf, the son of Ali, the son of Sheikh, the son of Nasib, had been
+slain.
+
+When I inquired into the details of the attack, and the manner of the
+death of these Arabs, I was told that after the first firing which
+warned the inhabitants of Tabora that the enemy was upon them, Khamis
+bin Abdullah and some of the principal Arabs who happened to be with
+him had ascended to the roof of his tembe, and with his spyglass he had
+looked towards the direction of the firing. To his great astonishment he
+saw the plain around Tabora filled with approaching savages, and about
+two miles off, near Kazima, a tent pitched, which he knew to belong to
+Mirambo, from its having been presented to that chief by the Arabs of
+Tabora when they were on good terms with him.
+
+Khamis bin Abdullah descended to his house saying, "Let us go to meet
+him. Arm yourselves, my friends, and come with me." His friends advised
+him strongly sat to go out of his tembe; for so long as each Arab kept
+to his tembe they were more than a match for the Ruga Ruga and the
+Watuta together. But Khamis broke out impatiently with, "Would you
+advise us to stop in our tembes, for fear of this Mshensi (pagan)? Who
+goes with me?" His little protege, Khamis, son of a dead friend, asked
+to be allowed to be his gun-bearer. Mohammed bin Abdulluh, Ibrahim bin
+Rashid, and Sayf, the son of Ali, young Arabs of good families, who were
+proud to live with the noble Khamis, also offered to go with him. After
+hastily arming eighty of his slaves, contrary to the advice of his
+prudent friends, he sallied out, and was soon face to face with his
+cunning and determined enemy Mirambo. This chief, upon seeing the Arabs
+advance towards him, gave orders to retreat slowly. Khamis, deceived by
+this, rushed on with his friends after them. Suddenly Mirambo ordered
+his men to advance upon them in a body, and at the sight of the
+precipitate rush upon their party, Khamis's slaves incontinently took to
+their heels, never even deigning to cast a glance behind them, leaving
+their master to the fate which was now overtaking him. The savages
+surrounded the five Arabs, and though several of them fell before the
+Arabs' fire, continued to shoot at the little party, until Khamis bin
+Abdullah received a bullet in the leg, which brought him to his knees,
+and, for the first time, to the knowledge that his slaves had deserted
+him. Though wounded, the brave man continued shooting, but he soon
+afterwards received a bullet through the heart. Little Khamis, upon
+seeing his adopted father's fall, exclaimed: "My father Khamis is dead,
+I will die with him," and continued fighting until he received, shortly
+after, his death wound. In a few minutes there was not one Arab left
+alive.
+
+Late at night some more particulars arrived of this tragic scene. I was
+told by people who saw the bodies, that the body of Khamis bin Abdullah,
+who was a fine noble, brave, portly man, was found with the skin of his
+forehead, the beard and skin of the lower part of his face, the fore
+part of the nose, the fat over the stomach and abdomen, and, lastly, a
+bit from each heel, cut off, by the savage allies of Mirambo. And in
+the same condition were found the bodies of his adopted son and fallen
+friends. The flesh and skin thus taken from the bodies was taken, of
+course, by the waganga or medicine men, to make what they deem to be
+the most powerful potion of all to enable men to be strong against their
+enemies. This potion is mixed up with their ugali and rice, and is taken
+in this manner with the most perfect confidence in its efficacy, as
+an invulnerable protection against bullets and missiles of all
+descriptions.
+
+It was a most sorry scene to witness from our excited settlement at
+Kwihara, almost the whole of Tabora in flames, and to see the hundreds
+of people crowding into Kwihara.
+
+Perceiving that my people were willing to stand by me, I made
+preparations for defence by boring loopholes for muskets into the
+stout clay walls of my tembe. They were made so quickly, and seemed so
+admirably adapted for the efficient defence of the tembe, that my men
+got quite brave, and Wangwana refugees with guns in their hands, driven
+out of Tabora, asked to be admitted into our tembe to assist in its
+defence. Livingstone's men were also collected, and invited to help
+defend their master's goods against Mirambo's supposed attack. By night
+I had one hundred and fifty armed men in my courtyard, stationed at
+every possible point where an attack might be expected. To-morrow
+Mirambo has threatened that he will come to Kwihara. I hope he will
+come, and if he comes within range of an American rifle, I shall see
+what virtue lies in American lead.
+
+August 23rd.--We have passed a very anxious day in the valley of
+Kwihara. Our eyes were constantly directed towards unfortunate Tabora.
+It has been said that three tembes only have stood the brunt of the
+attack. Abid bin Suliman's house has been destroyed, and over two
+hundred tusks of ivory that belonged to him have become the property of
+the African Bonaparte. My tembe is in as efficient a state of defence as
+its style and means of defence will allow. Rifle-pits surround the house
+outside, and all native huts that obstructed the view have been torn
+down, and all trees and shrubs which might serve as a shelter for any
+one of the enemy have been cut. Provisions and water enough for six days
+have been brought. I have ammunition enough to last two weeks. The walls
+are three feet thick, and there are apartments within apartments, so
+that a desperate body of men could fight until the last room had been
+taken.
+
+The Arabs, my neighbours, endeavour to seem brave, but it is evident
+they are about despairing; I have heard it rumoured that the Arabs of
+Kwihara, if Tabora is taken, will start en masse for the coast, and give
+the country up to Mirambo. If such are their intentions, and they are
+really carried into effect, I shall be in a pretty mess. However, if
+they do leave me, Mirambo will not reap any benefit from my stores,
+nor from Livingstone's either, for I shall burn the whole house, and
+everything in it.
+
+August 24th.--The American flag is still waving above my house, and the
+Arabs are still in Unyanyembe.
+
+About 10 A.M., a messenger came from Tabora, asking us if we were not
+going to assist them against Mirambo. I felt very much like going out to
+help them; but after debating long upon the pros and cons of it,--asking
+myself, Was it prudent? Ought I to go? What will become of the people
+if I were killed? Will they not desert me again? What was the fate of
+Khamis bin Abdullah?--I sent word that I would not go; that they ought
+to feel perfectly at home in their tembes against such a force as
+Mirambo had, that I should be glad if they could induce him to come to
+Kwihara, in which case I would try and pick him off.
+
+They say that Mirambo, and his principal officer, carry umbrellas over
+their heads, that he himself has long hair like a Mnyamwezi pagazi, and
+a beard. If he comes, all the men carrying umbrellas will have bullets
+rained on them in the hope that one lucky bullet may hit him. According
+to popular ideas, I should make a silver bullet, but I have no silver
+with me. I might make a gold one.
+
+About, noon I went over to see Sheikh bin Nasib, leaving about 100 men
+inside the house to guard it while I was absent. This old fellow is
+quite a philosopher in his way. I should call him a professor of minor
+philosophy. He is generally so sententious--fond of aphorisms, and a
+very deliberate character. I was astonished to find him so despairing.
+His aphorisms have deserted him, his philosophy has not been able to
+stand against disaster. He listened to me, more like a moribund, than
+one possessing all the means of defence and offence.
+
+I loaded his two-pounder with ball, and grape, and small slugs of iron,
+and advised him not to fire it until Mirambo's people were at his gates.
+
+About 4 p.m. I heard that Mirambo had deported himself to Kazima, a
+place north-west of Tabora a couple of miles.
+
+August 26th.--The Arabs sallied out this morning to attack Kazima, but
+refrained, because Mirambo asked for a day's grace, to eat the beef he
+had stolen from them. He has asked them impudently to come to-morrow
+morning, at which time he says he will give them plenty of fighting.
+
+Kwihara is once more restored to a peaceful aspect, and fugitives no
+longer throng its narrow limits in fear and despair.
+
+August 27th.--Mirambo retreated during the night; and when the Arabs
+went in force to attack his village of Kazima, they found it vacant.
+
+The Arabs hold councils of war now-a-days--battle meetings, of which
+they seem to be very fond, but extremely slow to act upon. They were
+about to make friends with the northern Watuta, but Mirambo was ahead of
+them. They had talked of invading Mirambo's territory the second time,
+but Mirambo invaded Unyanyembe with fire and sword, bringing death to
+many a household, and he has slain the noblest of them all.
+
+The Arabs spend their hours in talking and arguing, while the Ujiji
+and Karagwah roads are more firmly closed than ever. Indeed many of
+the influential Arabs are talking of returning to Zanzibar; saying,
+"Unyanyembe is ruined."
+
+Meanwhile, with poor success, however, perceiving the impossibility of
+procuring Wanyamwezi pagazis, I am hiring the Wangwana renegades living
+in Unyanyembe to proceed with me to Ujiji, at treble prices. Each man is
+offered 30 doti, ordinary hire of a carrier being only from 5 to 10 doti
+to Ujiji. I want fifty men. I intend to leave about sixty or seventy
+loads here under charge of a guard. I shall leave all personal baggage
+behind, except one small portmanteau.
+
+August 28th.--No news to-day of Mirambo. Shaw is getting strong again.
+
+Sheikh bin Nasib called on me to-day, but, except on minor philosophy,
+he had nothing to say.
+
+I have determined, after a study of the country, to lead a flying
+caravan to Ujiji, by a southern road through northern Ukonongo
+and Ukawendi. Sheikh bin Nasib has been informed to-night of this
+determination.
+
+August 29th.--Shaw got up to-day for a little work. Alas! all my
+fine-spun plans of proceeding by boat over the Victoria N'Yanza, thence
+down the Nile, have been totally demolished, I fear, through this war
+with Mirambo--this black Bonaparte. Two months have been wasted here
+already. The Arabs take such a long time to come to a conclusion. Advice
+is plentiful, and words are as numerous as the blades of grass in our
+valley; all that is wanting indecision. The Arabs' hope and stay is
+dead--Khamis bin Abdullah is no more. Where are the other warriors
+of whom the Wangwana and Wanyamwezi bards sing? Where is mighty
+Kisesa--great Abdullah bin Nasib? Where is Sayd, the son of Majid?
+Kisesa is in Zanzibar, and Sayd, the son of Majid, is in Ujiji, as yet
+ignorant that his son has fallen in the forest of Wilyankuru.
+
+Shaw is improving fast. I am unsuccessful as yet in procuring soldiers.
+I almost despair of ever being able to move from here. It is such a
+drowsy, sleepy, slow, dreaming country. Arabs, Wangwana, Wanyamwezi, are
+all alike--all careless how time flies. Their to-morrow means sometimes
+within a month. To me it is simply maddening.
+
+August 30th.--Shaw will not work. I cannot get him to stir himself. I
+have petted him and coaxed him; I have even cooked little luxuries
+for him myself. And, while I am straining every nerve to get ready for
+Ujiji, Shaw is satisfied with looking on listlessly. What a change from
+the ready-handed bold man he was at Zanzibar!
+
+I sat down by his side to-day with my palm and needle in order to
+encourage him, and to-day, for the first time, I told him of the real
+nature of my mission. I told him that I did not care about the geography
+of the country half as much as I cared about FINDING LIVINGSTONE! I told
+him, for the first time, "Now, my dear Shaw, you think probably that I
+have been sent here to find the depth of the Tanganika. Not a bit of
+it, man; I was told to find Livingstone. It is to find Livingstone I am
+here. It is to find Livingstone I am going. Don't you see, old fellow,
+the importance of the mission; don't you see what reward you will get
+from Mr. Bennett, if you will help me? I am sure, if ever you come to
+New York, you will never be in want of a fifty-dollar bill. So shake
+yourself; jump about; look lively. Say you will not die; that is half
+the battle. Snap your fingers at the fever. I will guarantee the fever
+won't kill you. I have medicine enough for a regiment here!"
+
+His eyes lit up a little, but the light that shone in them shortly
+faded, and died. I was quite disheartened. I made some strong punch, to
+put fire in his veins, that I might see life in him. I put sugar, and
+eggs, and seasoned it with lemon and spice. "Drink, Shaw," said I, "and
+forget your infirmities. You are not sick, dear fellow; it is only ennui
+you are feeling. Look at Selim there. Now, I will bet any amount, that
+he will not die; that I will carry him home safe to his friends! I will
+carry you home also, if you will, let me!"
+
+September 1st:--According to Thani bin Abdullah whom I visited to-day,
+at his tembe in Maroro, Mirambo lost two hundred men in the attack upon
+Tabora, while the Arabs' losses were, five Arabs, thirteen freemen and
+eight slaves, besides three tembes, and over one hundred small huts
+burned, two hundred and eighty ivory tusks, and sixty cows and bullocks
+captured.
+
+September 3rd.--Received a packet of letters and newspapers from Capt.
+Webb, at Zanzibar. What a good thing it is that one's friends, even in
+far America, think of the absent one in Africa! They tell me, that no
+one dreams of my being in Africa yet!
+
+I applied to Sheikh bin Nasib to-day to permit Livingstone's caravan to
+go under my charge to Ujiji, but he would not listen to it. He says he
+feels certain I am going to my death.
+
+September 4th.--Shaw is quite well to-day, he says. Selim is down with
+the fever. My force is gradually increasing, though some of my old
+soldiers are falling off. Umgareza is blind; Baruti has the small-pox
+very badly; Sadala has the intermittent.
+
+September 5th.--Baruti died this morning. He was one of my best
+soldiers; and was one of those men who accompanied Speke to Egypt.
+Baruti is number seven of those who have died since leaving Zanzibar.
+
+To-day my ears have been poisoned with the reports of the Arabs, about
+the state of the country I am about to travel through. "The roads are
+bad; they are all stopped; the Ruga-Ruga are out in the forests; the
+Wakonongo are coming from the south to help Mirambo; the Washensi are
+at war, one tribe against another." My men are getting dispirited, they
+have imbibed the fears of the Arabs and the Wanyamwezi. Bombay begins
+to feel that I had better go back to the coast, and try again some other
+time.
+
+We buried Baruti under the shade of the banyan-tree, a few yards west
+of my tembe. The grave was made four and a half feet deep and three
+feet wide. At the bottom on one side a narrow trench was excavated,
+into which the body was rolled on his side, with his face turned
+towards Mecca. The body was dressed in a doti and a half of new American
+sheeting. After it was placed properly in its narrow bed, a sloping
+roof of sticks, covered over with matting and old canvas, was made, to
+prevent the earth from falling over the body. The grave was then filled,
+the soldiers laughing merrily. On the top of the grave was planted a
+small shrub, and into a small hole made with the hand, was poured water
+lest he might feel thirsty--they said--on his way to Paradise; water was
+then sprinkled all ever the grave, and the gourd broken. This ceremony
+being ended, the men recited the Arabic Fat-hah, after which they left
+the grave of their dead comrade to think no more of him.
+
+September 7th.--An Arab named Mohammed presented me to-day with a little
+boy-slave, called "Ndugu M'hali" (my brother's wealth). As I did not
+like the name, I called the chiefs of my caravan together, and asked
+them to give him a better name. One suggested "Simba" (a lion), another
+said he thought "Ngombe" (a cow) would suit the boy-child, another
+thought he ought to be called "Mirambo," which raised a loud laugh.
+Bombay thought "Bombay Mdogo" would suit my black-skinned infant very
+well. Ulimengo, however, after looking at his quick eyes, and noting his
+celerity of movement, pronounced the name Ka-lu-la as the best for him,
+"because," said he, "just look at his eyes, so bright look at his form,
+so slim! watch his movements, how quick! Yes, Kalulu is his name." "Yes,
+bana," said the others, "let it be Kalulu."
+
+"Kalulu" is a Kisawahili term for the young of the blue-buck
+(perpusilla) antelope.
+
+"Well, then," said I, water being brought in a huge tin pan, Selim, who
+was willing to stand godfather, holding him over the water, "let his
+name henceforth be Kalulu, and let no man take it from him," and thus it
+was that the little black boy of Mohammed's came to be called Kalulu.
+
+The Expedition is increasing in numbers.
+
+We had quite an alarm before dark. Much firing was heard at Tabora,
+which led us to anticipate an attack on Kwihara. It turned out, however,
+to be a salute fired in honour of the arrival of Sultan Kitambi to pay a
+visit to Mkasiwa, Sultan of Unyanyembe.
+
+September 8th.--Towards night Sheikh bin Nasib received a letter from
+an Arab at Mfuto, reporting that an attack was made on that place by
+Mirambo and his Watuta allies. It also warned him to bid the people of
+Kwihara hold themselves in readiness, because if Mirambo succeeded in
+storming Mfuto, he would march direct on Kwihara.
+
+September 9th.--Mirambo was defeated with severe loss yesterday, in his
+attack upon Mfuto. He was successful in an assault he made upon a
+small Wanyamwezi village, but when he attempted to storm Mfuto, he
+was repulsed with severe loss, losing three of his principal men. Upon
+withdrawing his forces from the attack, the inhabitants sallied out, and
+followed him to the forest of Umanda, where he was again utterly routed,
+himself ingloriously flying from the field.
+
+The heads of his chief men slain in the attack were brought to Kwikuru,
+the boma of Mkasiwa.
+
+September 14th.--The Arab boy Selim is delirious from constant fever.
+Shaw is sick again. These two occupy most of my time. I am turned into a
+regular nurse, for I have no one to assist me in attending upon them. If
+I try to instruct Abdul Kader in the art of being useful, his head is so
+befogged with the villainous fumes of Unyamwezi tobacco, that he wanders
+bewildered about, breaking dishes, and upsetting cooked dainties, until
+I get so exasperated that my peace of mind is broken completely for
+a full hour. If I ask Ferajji, my now formally constituted cook, to
+assist, his thick wooden head fails to receive an idea, and I am thus
+obliged to play the part of chef de cuisine.
+
+September 15th.--The third month of my residence in Unyanyembe is almost
+finished, and I am still here, but I hope to be gone before the 23rd
+inst.
+
+All last night, until nine A.M. this morning, my soldiers danced and
+sang to the names of their dead comrades, whose bones now bleach in the
+forests of Wilyankuru. Two or three huge pots of pombe failed to satisfy
+the raging thirst which the vigorous exercise they were engaged in,
+created. So, early this morning, I was called upon to contribute a
+shukka for another potful of the potent liquor.
+
+To-day I was busy selecting the loads for each soldier and pagazi. In
+order to lighten their labor as much as possible, I reduced each load
+from 70 lbs. to 50 lbs., by which I hope to be enabled to make some long
+marches. I have been able to engage ten pagazis during the last two or
+three days.
+
+I have two or three men still very sick, and it is almost useless to
+expect that they will be able to carry anything, but I am in hopes that
+other men may be engaged to take their places before the actual day of
+departure, which now seems to be drawing near rapidly.
+
+September 16th.--We have almost finished our work--on the fifth day from
+this--God willing--we shall march. I engaged two more pagazis besides
+two guides, named Asmani and Mabruki. If vastness of the human form
+could terrify any one, certainly Asmani's appearance is well calculated
+to produce that effect. He stands considerably over six feet without
+shoes, and has shoulders broad enough for two ordinary men.
+
+To-morrow I mean to give the people a farewell feast, to celebrate our
+departure from this forbidding and unhappy country.
+
+September 17th.--The banquet is ended. I slaughtered two bullocks, and
+had a barbacue; three sheep, two goats, and fifteen chickens, 120 lbs.
+of rice, twenty large loaves of bread made of Indian corn-flour, one
+hundred eggs, 10 lbs. of butter, and five gallons of sweet-milk, were
+the contents of which the banquet was formed. The men invited their
+friends and neighbours, and about one hundred women and children partook
+of it.
+
+After the banquet was ended, the pombe, or native beer, was brought
+in in five gallon pots, and the people commenced their dance, which
+continues even now as I write.
+
+September 19th.--I had a slight attack of fever to-day, which has
+postponed our departure. Selim and Shaw are both recovered.
+
+About 8 P.M. Sheik bin Nasib came to me imploring me not to go away
+to-morrow, because I was so sick. Thani Sakhburi suggested to me that I
+might stay another month. In answer, I told them that white men are not
+accustomed to break their words. I had said I would go, and I intended
+to go.
+
+Sheikh bin Nasib gave up all hope of inducing me to remain another day,
+and he has gone away, with a promise to write to Seyd Burghash to tell
+him how obstinate I am; and that I am determined to be killed. This was
+a parting shot.
+
+About 10 P.M. the fever had gone. All were asleep in the tembe but
+myself, and an unutterable loneliness came on me as I reflected on my
+position, and my intentions, and felt the utter lack of sympathy with me
+in all around. It requires more nerve than I possess, to dispel all the
+dark presentiments that come upon the mind. But probably what I call
+presentiments are simply the impress on the mind of the warnings which
+these false-hearted Arabs have repeated so often. This melancholy and
+loneliness I feel, may probably have their origin from the same cause.
+The single candle, which barely lights up the dark shade that fills the
+corners of my room, is but a poor incentive to cheerfulness. I feel as
+though I were imprisoned between stone walls. But why should I feel
+as if baited by these stupid, slow-witted Arabs and their warnings and
+croakings? I fancy a suspicion haunts my mind, as I write, that there
+lies some motive behind all this. I wonder if these Arabs tell me
+all these things to keep me here, in the hope that I might be induced
+another time to assist them in their war with Mirambo! If they think
+so, they are much mistaken, for I have taken a solemn, enduring oath,
+an oath to be kept while the least hope of life remains in me, not to
+be tempted to break the resolution I have formed, never to give up the
+search, until I find Livingstone alive, or find his dead body; and never
+to return home without the strongest possible proofs that he is alive,
+or that he is dead. No living man, or living men, shall stop me, only
+death can prevent me. But death--not even this; I shall not die, I will
+not die, I cannot die! And something tells me, I do not know what it
+is--perhaps it is the ever-living hopefulness of my own nature, perhaps
+it is the natural presumption born out of an abundant and glowing
+vitality, or the outcome of an overweening confidence in oneself--anyhow
+and everyhow, something tells me to-night I shall find him, and--write
+it larger--FIND HIM! FIND HIM! Even the words are inspiring. I feel more
+happy. Have I uttered a prayer? I shall sleep calmly to-night.
+
+I have felt myself compelled to copy out of my Diary the above notes,
+as they explain, written as they are on the spot, the vicissitudes of my
+"Life at Unyanyembe." To me they appear to explain far better than any
+amount of descriptive writing, even of the most graphic, the nature
+of the life I led. There they are, unexaggerated, in their literality,
+precisely as I conceived them at the time they happened. They speak of
+fevers without number to myself and men, they relate our dangers, and
+little joys, our annoyances and our pleasures, as they occurred.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X. -- TO MRERA, UKONONGO.
+
+     Departure from Unyanyembe.--The expedition reorganized.--
+     Bombay.--Mr. Shaw returns sick to Unyanyembe.--A noble
+     forest.-The fever described.--Happiness of the camp.--A
+     park-land.--Herds of game and noble sport.--A mutiny.--
+     Punishment of the ringleaders. Elephants.--Arrival at Mrera
+
+The 20th of September had arrived. This was the day I had decided to cut
+loose from those who tormented me with their doubts, their fears, and
+beliefs, and commence the march to Ujiji by a southern route. I was very
+weak from the fever that had attacked me the day before, and it was a
+most injudicious act to commence a march under such circumstances. But I
+had boasted to Sheikh bin Nasib that a white man never breaks his word,
+and my reputation as a white man would have been ruined had I stayed
+behind, or postponed the march, in consequence of feebleness.
+
+I mustered the entire caravan outside the tembe, our flags and streamers
+were unfurled, the men had their loads resting on the walls, there was
+considerable shouting, and laughing, and negroidal fanfaronnade. The
+Arabs had collected from curiosity's sake to see us off--all except
+Sheikh bin Nasib, whom I had offended by my asinine opposition to his
+wishes. The old Sheikh took to his bed, but sent his son to bear me a
+last morsel of Philosophic sentimentality, which I was to treasure up as
+the last words of the patriarchal Sheikh, the son of Nasib, the son of
+Ali, the son of Sayf. Poor Sheikh! if thou hadst only known what was at
+the bottom of this stubbornness--this ass-like determination to proceed
+the wrong way--what wouldst thou then have said, 0 Sheikh? But the
+Sheikh comforted himself with the thought that I might know what I was
+about better than he did, which is most likely, only neither he nor any
+other Arab will ever know exactly the motive that induced me to march at
+all westward--when the road to the east was ever so much easier.
+
+My braves whom I had enlisted for a rapid march somewhere, out of
+Unyanyembe, were named as follows:--
+
+1. John William Shaw, London, England.
+
+2. Selim Heshmy, Arab.
+
+3. Seedy Mbarak Mombay, Zanzibar.
+
+4. Mabruki Spoke, ditto.
+
+5. Ulimengo, ditto
+
+6. Ambari, ditto.
+
+7. Uledi, ditto.
+
+8. Asmani, ditto.
+
+9. Sarmean, ditto.
+
+10. Kamna, ditto.
+
+11. Zaidi, ditto.
+
+12. Khamisi, ditto.
+
+13. Chowpereh, Bagamoyo.
+
+14. Kingaru, ditto.
+
+15. Belali, ditto.
+
+16. Ferous, Unyanyembe.
+
+17. Rojab, Bagamoyo.
+
+18. Mabruk Unyanyembe, Unyanyembe.
+
+19. Mtamani, ditto.
+
+20. Chanda, Maroro.
+
+21. Sadala, Zanzibar.
+
+22. Kombo, ditto.
+
+23. Saburi the Great, Maroro.
+
+24. Saburi the Little, ditto.
+
+25. Marora, ditto.
+
+26. Ferajji (the cook), Zanzibar.
+
+27. Mabruk Saleem, Zanzibar.
+
+28. Baraka, ditto.
+
+29. Ibrahim, Maroro.
+
+30. Mabruk Ferous, ditto.
+
+31. Baruti, Bagamoyo.
+
+32. Umgareza, Zanzibar.
+
+33. Hamadi (the guide), ditto.
+
+34. Asmani, ditto, ditto.
+
+35. Mabruk, ditto ditto.
+
+36. Hamdallah (the guide), Tabora.
+
+37. Jumah, Zanzibar.
+
+38. Maganga, Mkwenkwe.
+
+39. Muccadum, Tabora.
+
+40. Dasturi, ditto.
+
+41. Tumayona, Ujiji.
+
+42. Mparamoto, Ujiji.
+
+43. Wakiri, ditto.
+
+44. Mufu, ditto.
+
+45. Mpepo, ditto.
+
+46. Kapingu, Ujiji.
+
+47. Mashishanga, ditto.
+
+48. Muheruka, ditto.
+
+49. Missossi, ditto.
+
+50. Tufum Byah, ditto.
+
+51. Majwara (boy), Uganda.
+
+52. Belali (boy), Uemba.
+
+53. Kalulu (boy), Lunda.
+
+54. Abdul Kader (tailor), Malabar.
+
+
+These are the men and boys whom I had chosen to be my companions on
+the apparently useless mission of seeking for the lost traveller, David
+Livingstone. The goods with which I had burdened them, consisted of
+1,000 doti, or 4,000 yds. of cloth, six bags of beads, four loads of
+ammunition, one tent, one bed and clothes, one box of medicine, sextant
+and books, two loads of tea, coffee, and sugar, one load of flour
+and candles, one load of canned meats, sardines, and miscellaneous
+necessaries, and one load of cooking utensils.
+
+The men were all in their places except Bombay. Bombay had gone; he
+could not be found. I despatched a man to hunt him up. He was found
+weeping in the arms of his Delilah.
+
+"Why did you go away, Bombay, when you knew I intended to go, and was
+waiting?"
+
+"Oh, master, I was saying good-bye to my missis."
+
+"Oh, indeed?"
+
+"Yes, master; you no do it, when you go away?
+
+"Silence, sir."
+
+"Oh! all right."
+
+"What is the matter with you, Bombay?"
+
+"Oh, nuffin."
+
+As I saw he was in a humour to pick a quarrel with me before those Arabs
+who had congregated outside of my tembe to witness my departure; and as
+I was not in a humour to be balked by anything that might turn up, the
+consequence was, that I was obliged to thrash Bombay, an operation which
+soon cooled his hot choler, but brought down on my head a loud chorus
+of remonstrances from my pretended Arab friends--"Now, master, don't,
+don't--stop it, master: the poor man knows better than you what he and
+you may expect on the road you are now taking."
+
+If anything was better calculated to put me in a rage than Bombay's
+insolence before a crowd it was this gratuitous interference with what
+I considered my own especial business; but I restrained myself, though I
+told them, in a loud voice, that I did not choose to be interfered with,
+unless they wished to quarrel with me.
+
+"No, no, bana," they all exclaimed; "we do not wish to quarrel with you.
+In the name of God! go on your way in peace."
+
+"Fare you well, then," said I, shaking hands with them.
+
+"Farewell, master, farewell. We wish you, we are sure, all success, and
+God be with you, and guide you!"
+
+"March!"
+
+A parting salute was fired; the flags were raised up by the guides, each
+pagazi rushed for his load, and in a short time, with songs and shouts,
+the head of the Expedition had filed round the western end of my tembe
+along the road to Ugunda.
+
+"Now, Mr. Shaw, I am waiting, sir. Mount your donkey, if you cannot
+walk."
+
+"Please, Mr. Stanley, I am afraid I cannot go."
+
+"Why?"
+
+"I don't know, I am sure. I feel very weak."
+
+"So am I weak. It was but late last night, as you know, that the fever
+left me. Don't back out before these Arabs; remember you are a white
+man. Here, Selim, Mabruki, Bombay, help Mr. Shaw on his donkey, and walk
+by him."
+
+"Oh, bana, bans," said the Arabs, "don't take him. Do you not see he is
+sick?"
+
+"You keep away; nothing will prevent me from taking him. He shall go."
+
+"Go on, Bombay."
+
+The last of my party had gone. The tembe, so lately a busy scene, had
+already assumed a naked, desolate appearance. I turned towards the
+Arabs, lifted my hat, and said again, "Farewell," then faced about
+for the south, followed by my four young gun-bearers, Selim, Kalulu,
+Majwara, and Belali.
+
+After half an hour's march the scenery became more animated. Shaw began
+to be amused. Bombay had forgotten our quarrel, and assured me, if I
+could pass Mirambo's country, I should "catch the Tanganika;" Mabruki
+Burton also believed we should. Selim was glad to leave Unyanyembe,
+where he had suffered so much from fever; and there was a something in
+the bold aspect of the hills which cropped upward--above fair valleys,
+that enlivened and encouraged me to proceed.
+
+In an hour and a half, we arrived at our camp in the Kinyamwezi village
+of Mkwenkwe, the birthplace--of our famous chanter Maganga.
+
+My tent was pitched, the goods were stored in one of the tembes; but
+one-half the men had returned to Kwihara, to take one more embrace of
+their wives and concubines.
+
+Towards night I was attacked once again with the intermittent fever.
+Before morning it had departed, leaving me terribly prostrated with
+weakness. I had heard the men conversing with each other over their
+camp-fires upon the probable prospects of the next day. It was a
+question with them whether I should continue the march. Mostly all were
+of opinion that, since the master was sick, there would be no march. A
+superlative obstinacy, however, impelled me on, merely to spite their
+supine souls; but when I sallied out of my tent to call them to get
+ready, I found that at least twenty were missing; and Livingstone's
+letter-carrier, "Kaif-Halek"--or, How-do-ye-do?--had not arrived with
+Dr. Livingstone's letter-bag.
+
+Selecting twenty of the strongest and faithfulest men I despatched them
+back to Unyanyembe in search of the missing men; and Selim was sent to
+Sheikh bin Nasib to borrow, or buy, a long slave-chain.
+
+Towards night my twenty detectives returned with nine of the missing
+men. The Wajiji had deserted in a body, and they could not be found.
+Selim also returned with a strong chain, capable of imprisoning within
+the collars attached to it at least ten men. Kaif-Halek also appeared
+with the letter-bag which he was to convey to Livingstone under my
+escort. The men were then addressed, and the slave-chain exhibited
+to them. I told them that I was the first white man who had taken a
+slave-chain with him on his travels; but, as they were all so frightened
+of accompanying me, I was obliged to make use of it, as it was the only
+means of keeping them together. The good need never fear being chained
+by me--only the deserters, the thieves, who received their hire and
+presents, guns and ammunition, and then ran away.
+
+I would not put any one this time in chains; but whoever deserted after
+this day, I should halt, and not continue the march till I found him,
+after which he should march to Ujiji with the slave-chain round
+his neck. "Do you hear?"--"Yes," was the answer. "Do you
+understand?"--"Yes."
+
+We broke up camp at 6 P.M., and took the road for Inesuka, at which
+place we arrived at 8 P.M.
+
+When we were about commencing the march the next morning, it was
+discovered that two more had deserted. Baraka and Bombay were at once
+despatched to Unyanyembe to bring back the two missing men--Asmani and
+Kingaru--with orders not to return without them. This was the third
+time that the latter had deserted, as the reader may remember. While the
+pursuit was being effected we halted at the village of Inesuka, more for
+the sake of Shaw than any one else.
+
+In the evening the incorrigible deserters were brought back, and, as I
+had threatened, were well flogged and chained, to secure them against
+further temptation. Bombay and Baraka had a picturesque story to relate
+of the capture; and, as I was in an exceedingly good humour, their
+services were rewarded with a fine cloth each.
+
+On the following morning another carrier had absconded, taking with
+him his hire of fifteen new cloths and a gun but to halt anywhere
+near Unyanyembe any longer was a danger that could be avoided only by
+travelling without stoppages towards the southern jungle-lands. It will
+be remembered I had in my train the redoubtable Abdul Kader, the tailor,
+he who had started from Bagamoyo with such bright anticipations of the
+wealth of ivory to be obtained in the great interior of Africa. On this
+morning, daunted by the reports of the dangers ahead, Abdul Kader
+craved to be discharged. He vowed he was sick, and unable to proceed any
+further. As I was pretty well tired of him, I paid him off in cloth, and
+permitted him to go.
+
+About half way to Kasegera Mabruk Saleem was suddenly taken sick. I
+treated him with a grain of calomel, and a couple of ounces of brandy.
+As he was unable to walk, I furnished him with a donkey. Another man
+named Zaidi was ill with a rheumatic fever; and Shaw tumbled twice off
+the animal he was riding, and required an infinite amount of coaxing to
+mount again. Verily, my expedition was pursued by adverse fortunes,
+and it seemed as if the Fates had determined upon our return. It really
+appeared as if everything was going to wreck and ruin. If I were only
+fifteen days from Unyanyembe, thought I, I should be saved!
+
+Kasegera was a scene of rejoicing the afternoon and evening of our
+arrival. Absentees had just returned from the coast, and the youths were
+brave in their gaudy bedizenment, their new barsatis, their soharis, and
+long cloths of bright new kaniki, with which they had adorned themselves
+behind some bush before they had suddenly appeared dressed in all this
+finery. The women "Hi-hi'ed" like maenads, and the "Lu-lu-lu'ing" was
+loud, frequent, and fervent the whole of that afternoon. Sylphlike
+damsels looked up to the youthful heroes with intensest admiration
+on their features; old women coddled and fondled them; staff-using,
+stooping-backed patriarchs blessed them. This is fame in Unyamwezi! All
+the fortunate youths had to use their tongues until the wee hours of
+next morning had arrived, relating all the wonders they had seen near
+the Great Sea, and in the "Unguja," the island of Zanzibar; of how they
+saw great white men's ships, and numbers of white men, of their perils
+and trials during their journey through the land of the fierce Wagogo,
+and divers other facts, with which the reader and I are by this time
+well acquainted.
+
+On the 24th we struck camp, and marched through a forest of imbiti wood
+in a S.S.W. direction, and in about three hours came to Kigandu.
+
+On arriving before this village, which is governed by a daughter of
+Mkasiwa, we were informed we could not enter unless we paid toll. As we
+would not pay toll, we were compelled to camp in a ruined, rat-infested
+boma, situated a mile to the left of Kigandu, being well scolded by the
+cowardly natives for deserting Mkasiwa in his hour of extremity. We were
+accused of running away from the war.
+
+Almost on the threshold of our camp Shaw, in endeavouring to dismount,
+lost his stirrups, and fell prone on his face. The foolish fellow
+actually, laid on the ground in the hot sun a full hour; and when I
+coldly asked him if he did not feel rather uncomfortable, he sat up, and
+wept like a child.
+
+"Do you wish to go back, Mr. Shaw?"
+
+"If you please. I do not believe I can go any farther; and if you would
+only be kind enough, I should like to return very much."
+
+"Well, Mr. Shaw, I have come to the conclusion that it is best, you
+should return. My patience is worn out. I have endeavoured faithfully to
+lift you above these petty miseries which you nourish so devotedly. You
+are simply suffering from hypochondria. You imagine yourself sick,
+and nothing, evidently, will persuade you that you are not. Mark my
+words--to return to Unyanyembe, is to DIE! Should you happen to fall
+sick in Kwihara who knows how to administer medicine to you? Supposing
+you are delirious, how can any of the soldiers know what you want, or
+what is beneficial and necessary for you? Once again, I repeat, if you
+return, you DIE!"
+
+"Ah, dear me; I wish I had never ventured to come! I thought life in
+Africa was so different from this. I would rather go back if you will
+permit me."
+
+The next day was a halt, and arrangements were made for the
+transportation of Shaw back to Kwihara. A strong litter was made, and
+four stout pagazis were hired at Kigandu to carry him. Bread was baked,
+a canteen was filled with cold tea, and a leg of a kid was roasted for
+his sustenance while on the road.
+
+The night before we parted we spent together. Shaw played some tunes on
+an accordion which I had purchased for him at Zanzibar; but, though
+it was only a miserable ten-dollar affair, I thought the homely tunes
+evoked from the instrument that night were divine melodies. The last
+tune played before retiring was "Home, sweet Home."
+
+The morning of the 27th we were all up early: There was considerable vis
+in our movements. A long, long march lay before us that day; but then
+I was to leave behind all the sick and ailing. Only those who were
+healthy, and could march fast and long, were to accompany me. Mabruk
+Saleem I left in charge of a native doctor, who was to medicate him for
+a gift of cloth which I gave him in advance.
+
+The horn sounded to get ready. Shaw was lifted in his litter on the
+shoulders of his carriers. My men formed two ranks; the flags were
+lifted; and between these two living rows, and under those bright
+streamers, which were to float over the waters of the Tanganika before
+he should see them again, Shaw was borne away towards the north; while
+we filed off to the south, with quicker and more elastic steps, as if we
+felt an incubus had been taken from us.
+
+We ascended a ridge bristling with syenite boulders of massive size,
+appearing above a forest of dwarf trees. The view which we saw was
+similar to that we had often seen elsewhere. An illimitable forest
+stretching in grand waves far beyond the ken of vision--ridges,
+forest-clad, rising gently one above another until they receded in the
+dim purple-blue distance--with a warm haze floating above them, which,
+though clear enough in our neighbourhood, became impenetrably blue in
+the far distance. Woods, woods, woods, leafy branches, foliage globes,
+or parachutes, green, brown, or sere in colour, forests one above
+another, rising, falling, and receding--a very leafy ocean. The horizon,
+at all points, presents the same view, there may be an indistinct
+outline of a hill far away, or here and there a tall tree higher than
+the rest conspicuous in its outlines against the translucent sky--with
+this exception it is the same--the same clear sky dropping into the
+depths of the forest, the same outlines, the same forest, the same
+horizon, day after day, week after week; we hurry to the summit of a
+ridge, expectant of a change, but the wearied eyes, after wandering over
+the vast expanse, return to the immediate surroundings, satiated with
+the eversameness of such scenes. Carlyle, somewhere in his writings,
+says, that though the Vatican is great, it is but the chip of an
+eggshell compared to the star-fretted dome where Arcturus and Orion
+glance for ever; and I say that, though the grove of Central Park, New
+York, is grand compared to the thin groves seen in other great cities,
+that though the Windsor and the New Forests may be very fine and noble
+in England, yet they are but fagots of sticks compared to these eternal
+forests of Unyamwezi.
+
+We marched three hours, and then halted for refreshments. I perceived
+that the people were very tired, not yet inured to a series of long
+marches, or rather, not in proper trim for earnest, hard work after our
+long rest in Kwihara. When we resumed our march again there were several
+manifestations of bad temper and weariness. But a few good-natured
+remarks about their laziness put them on their mettle, and we reached
+Ugunda at 2 P.M. after another four hours' spurt.
+
+Ugunda is a very large village in the district of Ugunda, which adjoins
+the southern frontier of Unyanyembe. The village probably numbers four
+hundred families, or two thousand souls. It is well protected by a tall
+and strong palisade of three-inch timber. Stages have been erected at
+intervals above the palisades with miniature embrasures in the timber,
+for the muskets of the sharpshooters, who take refuge within these
+box-like stages to pick out the chiefs of an attacking force. An inner
+ditch, with the sand or soil thrown up three or four feet high against
+the palings, serves as protection for the main body of the defenders,
+who kneel in the ditch, and are thus enabled to withstand a very large
+force. For a mile or two outside the village all obstructions are
+cleared, and the besieged are thus warned by sharp-eyed watchers to
+be prepared for the defence before the enemy approaches within
+musket range. Mirambo withdrew his force of robbers from before this
+strongly-defended village after two or three ineffectual attempts to
+storm it, and the Wagunda have been congratulating themselves ever
+since, upon having driven away the boldest marauder that Unyamwezi has
+seen for generations.
+
+The Wagunda have about three thousand acres under cultivation around
+their principal village, and this area suffices to produce sufficient
+grain not only for their own consumption, but also for the many caravans
+which pass by this way for Ufipa and Marungu.
+
+However brave the Wagunda may be within the strong enclosure with which
+they have surrounded their principal village, they are not exempt from
+the feeling of insecurity which fills the soul of a Mnyamwezi during
+war-time. At this place the caravans are accustomed to recruit their
+numbers from the swarms of pagazis who volunteer to accompany them to
+the distant ivory regions south; but I could not induce a soul to follow
+me, so great was their fear of Mirambo and his Ruga-Raga. They were also
+full of rumors of wars ahead. It was asserted that Mbogo was advancing
+towards Ugunda with a thousand Wakonongo, that the Wazavira had attacked
+a caravan four months previously, that Simba was scouring the country
+with a band of ferocious mercenaries, and much more of the same nature
+and to the same intent.
+
+On the 28th we arrived at a small snug village embosomed within the
+forest called Benta, three hours and a quarter from Ugunda. The road led
+through the cornfields of the Wagunda, and then entered the clearings
+around the villages of Kisari, within one of which we found the
+proprietor of a caravan who was drumming up carriers for Ufipa. He had
+been halted here two months, and he made strenuous exertions to induce
+my men to join his caravan, a proceeding that did not tend to promote
+harmony between us. A few days afterwards I found, on my return, that
+he had given up the idea of proceeding south. Leaving Kisari, we marched
+through a thin jungle of black jack, over sun-cracked ground with here
+and there a dried-up pool, the bottom of which was well tramped by
+elephant and rhinoceros. Buffalo and zebra tracks were now frequent, and
+we were buoyed up with the hope that before long we should meet game.
+
+Benta was well supplied with Indian corn and a grain which the natives
+called choroko, which I take to be vetches. I purchased a large supply
+of choroko for my own personal use, as I found it to be a most healthy
+food. The corn was stored on the flat roofs of the tembes in huge boxes
+made out of the bark of the mtundu-tree. The largest box I have ever
+seen in Africa was seen here. It might be taken for a Titan's hat-box;
+it was seven feet in diameter, and ten feet in height.
+
+On the 29th, after travelling in a S.W. by S. direction, we reached
+Kikuru. The march lasted for five hours over sun-cracked plains, growing
+the black jack, and ebony, and dwarf shrubs, above which numerous
+ant-hills of light chalky-coloured earth appeared like sand dunes.
+
+The mukunguru, a Kisawahili term for fever, is frequent in this region
+of extensive forests and flat plains, owing to the imperfect drainage
+provided by nature for them. In the dry season there is nothing very
+offensive in the view of the country. The burnt grass gives rather a
+sombre aspect to the country, covered with the hard-baked tracks of
+animals which haunt these plains during the latter part of the rainy
+season. In the forest numbers of trees lie about in the last stages of
+decay, and working away with might and main on the prostrate trunks may
+be seen numberless insects of various species. Impalpably, however, the
+poison of the dead and decaying vegetation is inhaled into the system
+with a result sometimes as fatal as that which is said to arise from the
+vicinity of the Upas-tree.
+
+The first evil results experienced from the presence of malaria are
+confined bowels and an oppressive languor, excessive drowsiness, and
+a constant disposition to yawn. The tongue assumes a yellowish, sickly
+hue, coloured almost to blackness; even the teeth become yellow, and
+are coated with an offensive matter. The eyes of the patient sparkle
+lustrously, and become suffused with water. These are sure symptoms of
+the incipient fever which shortly will rage through the system.
+
+Sometimes this fever is preceded by a violent shaking fit, during which
+period blankets may be heaped on the patient's form, with but little
+amelioration of the deadly chill he feels. It is then succeeded by an
+unusually severe headache, with excessive pains about the loins and
+spinal column, which presently will spread over the shoulder-blades,
+and, running up the neck, find a final lodgment in the back and front
+of the head. Usually, however, the fever is not preceded by a chill,
+but after languor and torpitude have seized him, with excessive heat and
+throbbing temples, the loin and spinal column ache, and raging thirst
+soon possesses him. The brain becomes crowded with strange fancies,
+which sometimes assume most hideous shapes. Before the darkened vision
+of the suffering man, float in a seething atmosphere, figures of created
+and uncreated reptiles, which are metamorphosed every instant into
+stranger shapes and designs, growing every moment more confused, more
+complicated, more hideous and terrible. Unable to bear longer the
+distracting scene, he makes an effort and opens, his eyes, and dissolves
+the delirious dream, only, however, to glide again unconsciously
+into another dream-land where another unreal inferno is dioramically
+revealed, and new agonies suffered. Oh! the many many hours, that I have
+groaned under the terrible incubi which the fits of real delirium evoke.
+Oh! the racking anguish of body that a traveller in Africa must
+undergo! Oh! the spite, the fretfulness, the vexation which the horrible
+phantasmagoria of diabolisms induce! The utmost patience fails to
+appease, the most industrious attendance fails to gratify, the deepest
+humility displeases. During these terrible transitions, which induce
+fierce distraction, Job himself would become irritable, insanely
+furious, and choleric. A man in such a state regards himself as the
+focus of all miseries. When recovered, he feels chastened, becomes
+urbane and ludicrously amiable, he conjures up fictitious delights from
+all things which, but yesterday, possessed for him such awful portentous
+aspects. His men he regards with love and friendship; whatever is trite
+he views with ecstasy. Nature appears charming; in the dead woods and
+monotonous forest his mind becomes overwhelmed with delight. I speak
+for myself, as a careful analysation of the attack, in all its severe,
+plaintive, and silly phases, appeared to me. I used to amuse myself
+with taking notes of the humorous and the terrible, the fantastic and
+exaggerated pictures that were presented to me--even while suffering the
+paroxysms induced by fever.
+
+We arrived at a large pool, known as the Ziwani, after a four hours'
+march in a S.S.W. direction, the 1st of October. We discovered an old
+half-burnt khambi, sheltered by a magnificent mkuyu (sycamore), the
+giant of the forests of Unyamwezi, which after an hour we transformed
+into a splendid camp.
+
+If I recollect rightly, the stem of the tree measured thirty-eight
+feet in circumference. It is the finest tree of its kind I have seen
+in Africa. A regiment might with perfect ease have reposed under this
+enormous dome of foliage during a noon halt. The diameter of the shadow
+it cast on the ground was one hundred and twenty feet. The healthful
+vigor that I was enjoying about this time enabled me to regard my
+surroundings admiringly. A feeling of comfort and perfect contentment
+took possession of me, such as I knew not while fretting at Unyanyembe,
+wearing my life away in inactivity. I talked with my people as to my
+friends and equals. We argued with each other about our prospects in
+quite a companionable, sociable vein.
+
+When daylight was dying, and the sun was sinking down rapidly over the
+western horizon, vividly painting the sky with the colours of gold
+and silver, saffron, and opal, when its rays and gorgeous tints were
+reflected upon the tops of the everlasting forest, with the quiet and
+holy calm of heaven resting upon all around, and infusing even into the
+untutored minds of those about me the exquisite enjoyments of such a
+life as we were now leading in the depths of a great expanse of forest,
+the only and sole human occupants of it--this was the time, after our
+day's work was ended, and the camp was in a state of perfect security,
+when we all would produce our pipes, and could best enjoy the labors
+which we had performed, and the contentment which follows a work well
+done.
+
+Outside nothing is heard beyond the cry of a stray florican, or
+guinea-fowl, which has lost her mate, or the hoarse croaking of the
+frogs in the pool hard by, or the song of the crickets which seems to
+lull the day to rest; inside our camp are heard the gurgles of the
+gourd pipes as the men inhale the blue ether, which I also love. I am
+contented and happy, stretched on my carpet under the dome of living
+foliage, smoking my short meerschaum, indulging in thoughts--despite the
+beauty of the still grey light of the sky; and of the air of serenity
+which prevails around--of home and friends in distant America, and these
+thoughts soon change to my work--yet incomplete--to the man who to me is
+yet a myth, who, for all I know, may be dead, or may be near or far from
+me tramping through just such a forest, whose tops I see bound the
+view outside my camp. We are both on the same soil, perhaps in the same
+forest--who knows?--yet is he to me so far removed that he might as well
+be in his own little cottage of Ulva. Though I am even now ignorant
+of his very existence, yet I feel a certain complacency, a certain
+satisfaction which would be difficult to describe. Why is man so feeble,
+and weak, that he must tramp, tramp hundreds of miles to satisfy
+the doubts his impatient and uncurbed mind feels? Why cannot my form
+accompany the bold flights of my mind and satisfy the craving I feel to
+resolve the vexed question that ever rises to my lips--"Is he alive?"
+O soul of mine, be patient, thou hast a felicitous tranquillity, which
+other men might envy thee! Sufficient for the hour is the consciousness
+thou hast that thy mission is a holy one! Onward, and be hopeful!
+
+Monday, the 2nd of October, found us traversing the forest and plain
+that extends from the Ziwani to Manyara, which occupied us six and a
+half hours. The sun was intensely hot; but the mtundu and miombo trees
+grew at intervals, just enough to admit free growth to each tree, while
+the blended foliage formed a grateful shade. The path was clear and
+easy, the tamped and firm red soil offered no obstructions. The only
+provocation we suffered was from the attacks of the tsetse, or panga
+(sword) fly, which swarmed here. We knew we were approaching an
+extensive habitat of game, and we were constantly on the alert for any
+specimens that might be inhabiting these forests.
+
+While we were striding onward, at the rate of nearly three miles an
+hour, the caravan I perceived sheered off from the road, resuming it
+about fifty yards ahead of something on the road, to which the attention
+of the men was directed. On coming up, I found the object to be the
+dead body of a man, who had fallen a victim to that fearful scourge
+of Africa, the small-pox. He was one of Oseto's gang of marauders, or
+guerillas, in the service of Mkasiwa of Unyanyembe, who were hunting
+these forests for the guerillas of Mirambo. They had been returning from
+Ukonongo from a raid they had instituted against the Sultan of Mbogo,
+and they had left their comrade to perish in the road. He had apparently
+been only one day dead.
+
+Apropos of this, it was a frequent thing with us to discover a skeleton
+or a skull on the roadside. Almost every day we saw one, sometimes two,
+of these relics of dead, and forgotten humanity.
+
+Shortly after this we emerged from the forest, and entered a mbuga, or
+plain, in which we saw a couple of giraffes, whose long necks were seen
+towering above a bush they had been nibbling at. This sight was greeted
+with a shout; for we now knew we had entered the game country, and that
+near the Gombe creek, or river, where we intended to halt, we should see
+plenty of these animals.
+
+A walk of three hours over this hot plain brought us to the cultivated
+fields of Manyara. Arriving before the village-gate, we were forbidden
+to enter, as the country was throughout in a state of war, and it
+behoved them to be very careful of admitting any party, lest the
+villagers might be compromised. We were, however, directed to a khambi
+to the right of the village, near some pools of clear water, where we
+discovered some half dozen ruined huts, which looked very uncomfortable
+to tired people.
+
+After we had built our camp, the kirangozi was furnished with some
+cloths to purchase food from the village for the transit of a wilderness
+in front of us, which was said to extend nine marches, or 135 miles.
+He was informed that the Mtemi had strictly prohibited his people from
+selling any grain whatever.
+
+This evidently was a case wherein the exercise of a little diplomacy
+could only be effective; because it would detain us several days here,
+if we were compelled to send men back to Kikuru for provisions. Opening
+a bale of choice goods, I selected two royal cloths, and told Bombay to
+carry them to him, with the compliments and friendship of the white man.
+The Sultan sulkily refused them, and bade him return to the white man
+and tell him not to bother him. Entreaties were of no avail, he would
+not relent; and the men, in exceedingly bad temper, and hungry, were
+obliged to go to bed supperless. The words of Njara, a slave-trader,
+and parasite of the great Sheikh bin Nasib, recurred to me. "Ah, master,
+master, you will find the people will be too much for you, and that you
+will have to return. The Wa-manyara are bad, the Wakonongo are very bad,
+the Wazavira are the worst of all. You have come to this country at a
+bad time. It is war everywhere." And, indeed, judging from the tenor
+of the conversations around our camp-fires, it seemed but too evident.
+There was every prospect of a general decamp of all my people. However,
+I told them not to be discouraged; that I would get food for them in the
+morning.
+
+The bale of choice cloths was opened again next morning, and four royal
+cloths were this time selected, and two dotis of Merikani, and Bombay
+was again despatched, burdened with compliments, and polite words.
+
+It was necessary to be very politic with a man who was so surly, and too
+powerful to make an enemy of. What if he made up his mind to imitate
+the redoubtable Mirambo, King of Uyoweh! The effect of my munificent
+liberality was soon seen in the abundance of provender which came to my
+camp. Before an hour went by, there came boxes full of choroko, beans,
+rice, matama or dourra, and Indian corn, carried on the heads of a dozen
+villagers, and shortly after the Mtemi himself came, followed by about
+thirty musketeers and twenty spearmen, to visit the first white man
+ever seen on this road. Behind these warriors came a liberal gift, fully
+equal in value to that sent to him, of several large gourds of honey,
+fowls, goats, and enough vetches and beans to supply my men with four
+days' food.
+
+I met the chief at the gate of my camp, and bowing profoundly, invited
+him to my tent, which I had arranged as well as my circumstances would
+permit, for this reception. My Persian carpet and bear skin were spread
+out, and a broad piece of bran-new crimson cloth covered my kitanda, or
+bedstead.
+
+The chief, a tall robust man, and his chieftains, were invited to seat
+themselves. They cast a look of such gratified surprise at myself, at
+my face, my clothes, and guns, as is almost impossible to describe. They
+looked at me intently for a few seconds, and then at each other, which
+ended in an uncontrollable burst of laughter, and repeated snappings
+of the fingers. They spoke the Kinyamwezi language, and my interpreter
+Maganga was requested to inform the chief of the great delight I felt in
+seeing them. After a short period expended in interchanging compliments,
+and a competitive excellence at laughing at one another, their chief
+desired me to show him my guns. The "sixteen-shooter," the Winchester
+rifle, elicited a thousand flattering observations from the excited man;
+and the tiny deadly revolvers, whose beauty and workmanship they thought
+were superhuman, evoked such gratified eloquence that I was fain to try
+something else. The double-barrelled guns fired with heavy charges of
+power, caused them to jump up in affected alarm, and then to subside
+into their seats convulsed with laughter. As the enthusiasm of my guests
+increased, they seized each other's index fingers, screwed them, and
+pulled at them until I feared they would end in their dislocation. After
+having explained to them the difference between white men and Arabs, I
+pulled out my medicine chest, which evoked another burst of rapturous
+sighs at the cunning neatness of the array of vials. He asked what they
+meant.
+
+"Dowa," I replied sententiously, a word which may be
+interpreted--medicine.
+
+"Oh-h, oh-h," they murmured admiringly. I succeeded, before long, in
+winning unqualified admiration, and my superiority, compared to the
+best of the Arabs they had seen, was but too evident. "Dowa, dowa," they
+added.
+
+"Here," said I, uncorking a vial of medicinal brandy, "is the Kisungu
+pombe" (white man's beer); "take a spoonful and try it," at the same
+time handing it.
+
+"Hacht, hacht, oh, hacht! what! eh! what strong beer the white men
+have! Oh, how my throat burns!"
+
+"Ah, but it is good," said I, "a little of it makes men feel strong, and
+good; but too much of it makes men bad, and they die."
+
+"Let me have some," said one of the chiefs; "and me," "and me," "and
+me," as soon as each had tasted.
+
+"I next produced a bottle of concentrated ammonia, which as I explained
+was for snake bites, and head-aches; the Sultan immediately complained
+he had a head-ache, and must have a little. Telling him to close his
+eyes, I suddenly uncorked the bottle, and presented it to His Majesty's
+nose. The effect was magical, for he fell back as if shot, and such
+contortions as his features underwent are indescribable. His chiefs
+roared with laughter, and clapped their hands, pinched each other,
+snapped their fingers, and committed many other ludicrous things. I
+verily believe if such a scene were presented on any stage in the world
+the effect of it would be visible instantaneously on the audience; that
+had they seen it as I saw it, they would have laughed themselves to
+hysteria and madness. Finally the Sultan recovered himself, great tears
+rolling down his cheeks, and his features quivering with laughter,
+then he slowly uttered the word 'kali,'--hot, strong, quick, or ardent
+medicine. He required no more, but the other chiefs pushed forward
+to get one wee sniff, which they no sooner had, than all went into
+paroxysms of uncontrollable laughter. The entire morning was passed in
+this state visit, to the mutual satisfaction of all concerned. 'Oh,'
+said the Sultan at parting, 'these white men know everything, the Arabs
+are dirt compared to them!'"
+
+That night Hamdallah, one of the guides, deserted, carrying with him his
+hire (27 doti), and a gun. It was useless to follow him in the morning,
+as it would have detained me many more days than I could afford; but
+I mentally vowed that Mr. Hamdallah should work out those 27 doti of
+cloths before I reached the coast.
+
+Wednesday, October 4th, saw us travelling to the Gombe River, which is 4
+h. 15 m. march from Manyara.
+
+We had barely left the waving cornfields of my friend Ma-manyara before
+we came in sight of a herd of noble zebra; two hours afterwards we
+had entered a grand and noble expanse of park land, whose glorious
+magnificence and vastness of prospect, with a far-stretching carpet of
+verdure darkly flecked here and there by miniature clumps of jungle,
+with spreading trees growing here and there, was certainly one of the
+finest scenes to be seen in Africa. Added to which, as I surmounted one
+of the numerous small knolls, I saw herds after herds of buffalo and
+zebra, giraffe and antelope, which sent the blood coursing through my
+veins in the excitement of the moment, as when I first landed on African
+soil. We crept along the plain noiselessly to our camp on the banks of
+the sluggish waters of the Gombe.
+
+Here at last was the hunter's Paradise! How petty and insignificant
+appeared my hunts after small antelope and wild boar what a foolish
+waste of energies those long walks through damp grasses and through
+thorny jungles! Did I not well remember ' my first bitter experience
+in African jungles when in the maritime region! But this--where is
+the nobleman's park that can match this scene? Here is a soft, velvety
+expanse of young grass, grateful shade under those spreading clumps;
+herds of large and varied game browsing within easy rifle range. Surely
+I must feel amply compensated now for the long southern detour I have
+made, when such a prospect as this opens to the view! No thorny jungles
+and rank smelling swamps are here to daunt the hunter, and to sicken
+his aspirations after true sport! No hunter could aspire after a nobler
+field to display his prowess.
+
+Having settled the position of the camp, which overlooked one of
+the pools found in the depression of the Gombe creek, I took my
+double-barrelled smooth-bore, and sauntered off to the park-land.
+Emerging from behind a clump, three fine plump spring-bok were seen
+browsing on the young grass just within one hundred yards. I knelt down
+and fired; one unfortunate antelope bounded upward instinctively, and
+fell dead. Its companions sprang high into the air, taking leaps about
+twelve feet in length, as if they were quadrupeds practising gymnastics,
+and away they vanished, rising up like India-rubber balls; until a
+knoll hid them from view. My success was hailed with loud shouts by the
+soldiers; who came running out from the camp as soon as they heard the
+reverberation of the gun, and my gun-bearer had his knife at the beast's
+throat, uttering a fervent "Bismillah!" as he almost severed the head
+from the body.
+
+Hunters were now directed to proceed east and north to procure meat,
+because in each caravan it generally happens that there are fundi, whose
+special trade it is to hunt for meat for the camp. Some of these are
+experts in stalking, but often find themselves in dangerous positions,
+owing to the near approach necessary, before they can fire their most
+inaccurate weapons with any certainty.
+
+After luncheon, consisting of spring-bok steak, hot corn-cake, and a
+cup of delicious Mocha coffee, I strolled towards the south-west,
+accompanied by Kalulu and Majwara, two boy gun-bearers. The tiny
+perpusilla started up like rabbits from me as I stole along through the
+underbrush; the honey-bird hopped from tree to tree chirping its
+call, as if it thought I was seeking the little sweet treasure, the
+hiding-place of which it only knew; but no! I neither desired perpusilla
+nor the honey. I was on the search for something great this day.
+Keen-eyed fish-eagles and bustards poised on trees above the sinuous
+Gombe thought, and probably with good reason that I was after them;
+judging by the ready flight with which both species disappeared as they
+sighted my approach. Ah, no! nothing but hartebeest, zebra, giraffe,
+eland, and buffalo this day! After following the Gombe's course for
+about a mile, delighting my eyes with long looks at the broad and
+lengthy reaches of water to which I was so long a stranger, I came upon
+a scene which delighted the innermost recesses of my soul; five, six,
+seven, eight, ten zebras switching their beautiful striped bodies, and
+biting one another, within about one hundred and fifty yards. The scene
+was so pretty, so romantic, never did I so thoroughly realize that I
+was in Central Africa. I felt momentarily proud that I owned such a vast
+domain, inhabited with such noble beasts. Here I possessed, within reach
+of a leaden ball, any one I chose of the beautiful animals, the pride of
+the African forests! It was at my option to shoot any of them! Mine they
+were without money or without price; yet, knowing this, twice I dropped
+my rifle, loth to wound the royal beasts, but--crack! and a royal one
+was on his back battling the air with his legs. Ah, it was such a
+pity! but, hasten, draw the keen sharp-edged knife across the beautiful
+stripes which fold around the throat; and--what an ugly gash! it is
+done, and 1 have a superb animal at my feet. Hurrah! I shall taste of
+Ukonongo zebra to-night.
+
+I thought a spring-bok and zebra enough for one day's sport, especially
+after a long march. The Gombe, a long stretch of deep water, winding in
+and out of green groves, calm, placid, with lotus leaves lightly resting
+on its surface, all pretty, picturesque, peaceful as a summer's dream,
+looked very inviting for a bath. I sought out the most shady spot under
+a wide-spreading mimosa, from which the ground sloped smooth as a
+lawn, to the still, clear water. I ventured to undress, and had already
+stepped in to my ancles in the water, and had brought my hands together
+for a glorious dive, when my attention was attracted by an enormously
+long body which shot into view, occupying the spot beneath the surface
+that I was about to explore by a "header." Great heavens, it was
+a crocodile! I sprang backward instinctively, and this proved my
+salvation, for the monster turned away with the most disappointed look,
+and I was left to congratulate myself upon my narrow escape from his
+jaws, and to register a vow never to be tempted again by the treacherous
+calm of an African river.
+
+As soon as I had dressed I turned away from the now repulsive aspect of
+the stream. In strolling through the jungle, towards my camp, I detected
+the forms of two natives looking sharply about them, and, after bidding
+my young attendants to preserve perfect quiet, I crept on towards them,
+and, by the aid of a thick clump of underbush, managed to arrive within
+a few feet of the natives undetected. Their mere presence in the immense
+forest, unexplained, was a cause of uneasiness in the then disturbed
+state of the country, and my intention was to show myself suddenly to
+them, and note its effect, which, if it betokened anything hostile to
+the Expedition, could without difficulty be settled at once, with the
+aid of my double-barrelled smooth-bore.
+
+As I arrived on one side of this bush, the two suspicious-looking
+natives arrived on the other side, and we were separated by only a
+few feet. I made a bound, and we were face to face. The natives cast a
+glance at the sudden figure of a white man, and seemed petrified for a
+moment, but then, recovering themselves, they shrieked out, "Bana, bana,
+you don't know us. We are Wakonongo, who came to your camp to accompany
+you to Mrera, and we are looking for honey."
+
+"Oh, to be sure, you are the Wakonongo. Yes--Yes. Ah, it is all right
+now, I thought you might be Ruga-Ruga."
+
+So the two parties, instead of being on hostile terms with each other,
+burst out laughing. The Wakonongo enjoyed it very much, and laughed
+heartily as they proceeded on their way to search for the wild honey.
+On a piece of bark they carried a little fire with which they smoked the
+bees out from their nest in the great mtundu-trees.
+
+The adventures of the day were over; the azure of the sky had changed
+to a dead grey; the moon was appearing just over the trees; the water
+of the Gombe was like a silver belt; hoarse frogs bellowed their
+notes loudly by the margin of the creek; the fish-eagles uttered their
+dirge-like cries as they were perched high on the tallest tree; elands
+snorted their warning to the herds in the forest; stealthy forms of the
+carnivora stole through the dark woods outside of our camp. Within the
+high inclosure of bush and thorn, which we had raised around our camp,
+all was jollity, laughter, and radiant, genial comfort. Around every
+camp-fire dark forms of men were seen squatted: one man gnawed at a
+luscious bone; another sucked the rich marrow in a zebra's leg-bone;
+another turned the stick, garnished with huge kabobs, to the bright
+blaze; another held a large rib over a flame; there were others busy
+stirring industriously great black potfuls of ugali, and watching
+anxiously the meat simmering, and the soup bubbling, while the
+fire-light flickered and danced bravely, and cast a bright glow over the
+naked forms of the men, and gave a crimson tinge to the tall tent that
+rose in the centre of the camp, like a temple sacred to some mysterious
+god; the fires cast their reflections upon the massive arms of the
+trees, as they branched over our camp, and, in the dark gloom of their
+foliage, the most fantastic shadows were visible. Altogether it was
+a wild, romantic, and impressive scene. But little recked my men for
+shadows and moonlight, for crimson tints, and temple-like tents--they
+were all busy relating their various experiences, and gorging themselves
+with the rich meats our guns had obtained for us. One was telling how he
+had stalked a wild boar, and the furious onset the wounded animal made
+on him, causing him to drop his gun, and climb a tree, and the terrible
+grunt of the beast he well remembered, and the whole welkin rang with
+the peals of laughter which his mimic powers evoked. Another had shot a
+buffalo-calf, and another had bagged a hartebeest; the Wakonongo related
+their laughable rencontre with me in the woods, and were lavish in their
+description of the stores of honey to be found in the woods; and all
+this time Selim and his youthful subs were trying their sharp teeth on
+the meat of a young pig which one of the hunters had shot, but which
+nobody else would eat, because of the Mohammedan aversion to pig, which
+they had acquired during their transformation from negro savagery to the
+useful docility of the Zanzibar freed-man.
+
+We halted the two following days, and made frequent raids on the herds
+of this fine country. The first day I was fairly successful again in
+the sport. I bagged a couple of antelopes, a kudu (A. strepsiceros) with
+fine twisting horns, and a pallah-buck (A. melampus), a reddish-brown
+animal, standing about three and a half feet, with broad posteriors.
+I might have succeeded in getting dozens of animals had I any of those
+accurate, heavy rifles manufactured by Lancaster, Reilly, or Blissett,
+whose every shot tells. But my weapons, save my light smoothbore,
+were unfit for African game. My weapons were more for men. With the
+Winchester rifle, and the Starr's carbine, I was able to hit anything
+within two hundred yards, but the animals, though wounded, invariably
+managed to escape the knife, until I was disgusted with the pea-bullets.
+What is wanted for this country is a heavy bore--No. 10 or 12 is the
+real bone-crusher--that will drop every animal shot in its tracks, by
+which all fatigue and disappointment are avoided. Several times during
+these two days was I disappointed after most laborious stalking and
+creeping along the ground. Once I came suddenly upon an eland while
+I had a Winchester rifle in my hand--the eland and myself mutually
+astonished--at not more than twenty-five yards apart. I fired at its
+chest, and bullet, true to its aim, sped far into the internal parts,
+and the blood spouted from the wound: in a few minutes he was far away,
+and I was too much disappointed to follow him. All love of the chase
+seemed to be dying away before these several mishaps. What were two
+antelopes for one day's sport to the thousands that browsed over the
+plain?
+
+The animals taken to camp during our three days' sport were two
+buffaloes, two wild boar, three hartebeest, one zebra, and one pallah;
+besides which, were shot eight guinea-fowls, three florican, two
+fish-eagles, one pelican, and one of the men caught a couple of large
+silurus fish. In the meantime the people had cut, sliced, and dried
+this bounteous store of meat for our transit through the long wilderness
+before us.
+
+Saturday the 7th day of October, we broke up camp, to the great regret
+of the meat-loving, gormandizing Wangwana. They delegated Bombay early
+in the morning to speak to me, and entreat of me to stop one day longer.
+It was ever the case; they had always an unconquerable aversion to work,
+when in presence of meat. Bombay was well scolded for bearing any such
+request to me after two days' rest, during which time they had been
+filled to repletion with meat. And Bombay was by no means in the best of
+humour; flesh-pots full of meat were more to his taste than a constant
+tramping, and its consequent fatigues. I saw his face settle into sulky
+ugliness, and his great nether lip hanging down limp, which meant as if
+expressed in so many words, "Well, get them to move yourself, you wicked
+hard man! I shall not help you."
+
+An ominous silence followed my order to the kirangozi to sound the
+horn, and the usual singing and chanting were not heard. The men turned
+sullenly to their bales, and Asmani, the gigantic guide, our fundi, was
+heard grumblingly to say he was sorry he had engaged to guide me to the
+Tanganika. However, they started, though reluctantly. I stayed behind
+with my gunbearers, to drive the stragglers on. In about half an hour I
+sighted the caravan at a dead stop, with the bales thrown on the ground,
+and the men standing in groups conversing angrily and excitedly.
+
+Taking my double-barrelled gun from Selim's shoulder, I selected a dozen
+charges of buck-shot, and slipping two of them into the barrels, and
+adjusting my revolvers in order for handy work, I walked on towards
+them. I noticed that the men seized their guns, as I advanced. When
+within thirty yards of the groups, I discovered the heads of two men
+appear above an anthill on my left, with the barrels of their guns
+carelessly pointed toward the road.
+
+I halted, threw the barrel of my gun into the hollow of the left hand,
+and then, taking a deliberate aim at them, threatened to blow their
+heads off if they did not come forward to talk to me. These two men
+were, gigantic Asmani and his sworn companion Mabruki, the guides of
+Sheikh bin Nasib. As it was dangerous not to comply with such an order,
+they presently came, but, keeping my eye on Asmani, I saw him move his
+fingers to the trigger of his gun, and bring his gun to a "ready." Again
+I lifted my gun, and threatened him with instant death, if he did not
+drop his gun.
+
+Asmani came on in a sidelong way with a smirking smile on his face, but
+in his eyes shone the lurid light of murder, as plainly as ever it shone
+in a villain's eyes. Mabruki sneaked to my rear, deliberately putting
+powder in the pan of his musket, but sweeping the gun sharply round, I
+planted the muzzle of it at about two feet from his wicked-looking face,
+and ordered him to drop his gun instantly. He let it fall from his hand
+quickly, and giving him a vigorous poke in the breast with my gun, which
+sent him reeling away a few feet from me, I faced round to Asmani, and
+ordered him to put his gun down, accompanying it with a nervous movement
+of my gun, pressing gently on the trigger at the same time. Never was
+a man nearer his death than was Asmani during those few moments. I was
+reluctant to shed his blood, and I was willing to try all possible means
+to avoid doing so; but if I did not succeed in cowing this ruffian,
+authority was at an end. The truth was, they feared to proceed further
+on the road, and the only possible way of inducing them to move was
+by an overpowering force, and exercise of my power and will in this
+instance, even though he might pay the penalty of his disobedience with
+death. As I was beginning to feel that Asmani had passed his last moment
+on earth, as he was lifting his gun to his shoulder, a form came up from
+behind him, and swept his gun aside with an impatient, nervous movement,
+and I heard Mabruki Burton say in horror-struck accents:
+
+"Man, how dare you point your gun, at the master?" Mabruki then threw
+himself at my feet, and endeavoured to kiss them and entreated me not
+to punish him. "It was all over now," he said; "there would be no more
+quarreling, they would all go as far as the Tanganika, without any more
+noise; and Inshallah!" said he, "we shall find the old Musungu * at
+Ujiji."
+
+*Livingstone
+
+"Speak, men, freedmen, shall we not?--shall we not go to the Tanganika
+without any more trouble? tell the master with one voice."
+
+"Ay Wallah! Ay Wallah! Bana yango! Hamuna manneno mgini!" which
+literally translated means, "Yes by God! Yes by God! my master! There
+are no other words," said each man loudly.
+
+"Ask the master's pardon, man, or go thy way," said Mabruki
+peremptorily, to Asmani: which Asmani did, to the gratification of us
+all.
+
+It remained for me only to extend a general pardon to all except to
+Bombay and Ambari, the instigators of the mutiny, which was now happily
+quelled. For Bombay could have by a word, as my captain, nipped all
+manifestation of bad temper at the outset, had he been so disposed.
+But no, Bombay was more averse to marching than the cowardliest of his
+fellows, not because he was cowardly, but because he loved indolence.
+
+Again the word was given to march, and each man, with astonishing
+alacrity, seized his load, and filed off quickly out of sight.
+
+While on this subject, I may as well give here a sketch of each of the
+principal men whose names must often appear in the following chapters.
+According to rank, they consist of Bombay, Mabruki Burton, Asmani the
+guide, Chowpereh, Ulimengo, Khamisi, Ambari, Jumah, Ferajji the cook,
+Maganga the Mnyamwezi, Selim the Arab boy, and youthful Kalulu a
+gunbearer.
+
+Bombay has received an excellent character from Burton and Speke.
+"Incarnation of honesty" Burton grandly terms him. The truth is, Bombay
+was neither very honest nor very dishonest, i.e., he did not venture
+to steal much. He sometimes contrived cunningly, as he distributed the
+meat, to hide a very large share for his own use. This peccadillo of his
+did not disturb me much; he deserved as captain a larger share than the
+others. He required to be closely watched, and when aware that this was
+the case, he seldom ventured to appropriate more cloth than I would have
+freely given him, had he asked for it. As a personal servant, or valet,
+he would have been unexceptionable, but as a captain or jemadar over his
+fellows, he was out of his proper sphere. It was too much brain-work,
+and was too productive of anxiety to keep him in order. At times he was
+helplessly imbecile in his movements, forgot every order the moment it
+was given him, consistently broke or lost some valuable article, was
+fond of argument, and addicted to bluster. He thinks Hajji Abdullah one
+of the wickedest white men born, because he saw him pick up men's skulls
+and put them in sacks, as if he was about to prepare a horrible medicine
+with them. He wanted to know whether his former master had written down
+all he himself did, and when told that Burton had not said anything,
+in his books upon the Lake Regions, upon collecting skulls at Kilwa,
+thought I would be doing a good work if I published this important
+fact.
+
+     * Bombay intends to make a pilgrimage to visit Speke's grave
+     some day.
+
+     ** I find upon returning to England, that Capt. Burton has
+     informed the world of this "wicked and abominable deed," in
+     his book upon Zanzibar, and that the interesting collection
+     may be seen at the Royal College of Surgeons, London.
+
+
+Mabruki, "Ras-bukra Mabruki," Bull-headed Mabruki, as Burton calls
+him, is a sadly abused man in my opinion. Mabruki, though stupid, is
+faithful. He is entirely out of his element as valet, he might as well
+be clerk. As a watchman he is invaluable, as a second captain or fundi,
+whose duty it is to bring up stragglers, he is superexcellent. He is
+ugly and vain, but he is no coward.
+
+Asmani the guide is a large fellow, standing over six feet, with the
+neck and shoulders of a Hercules. Besides being guide, he is a fundi,
+sometimes called Fundi Asmani, or hunter. A very superstitious man, who
+takes great care of his gun, and talismanic plaited cord, which he has
+dipped in the blood of all the animals he has ever shot. He is afraid of
+lions, and will never venture out where lions are known to be. All other
+animals he regards as game, and is indefatigable in their pursuit. He is
+seldom seen without an apologetic or a treacherous smile on his face. He
+could draw a knife across a man's throat and still smile.
+
+Chowpereh is a sturdy short man of thirty or thereabouts; very
+good-natured, and humorous. When Chowpereh speaks in his dry Mark Twain
+style, the whole camp laughs. I never quarrel with Chowpereh, never
+did quarrel with him. A kind word given to Chowpereh is sure to be
+reciprocated with a good deed. He is the strongest, the healthiest,
+the amiablest, the faithfulest of all. He is the embodiment of a good
+follower.
+
+Khamisi is a neat, cleanly boy of twenty, or thereabouts, active,
+loud-voiced, a boaster, and the cowardliest of the cowardly. He will
+steal at every opportunity. He clings to his gun most affectionately; is
+always excessively anxious if a screw gets loose, or if a flint will
+not strike fire, yet I doubt that he would be able to fire his gun at an
+enemy from excessive trembling. Khamisi would rather trust his safety to
+his feet, which are small, and well shaped.
+
+Ambari is a man of about forty. He is one of the "Faithfuls" of Speke,
+and one of my Faithfuls. He would not run away from me except when in
+the presence of an enemy, and imminent personal danger. He is clever
+in his way, but is not sufficiently clever to enact the part of
+captain--could take charge of a small party, and give a very good
+account of them. Is lazy, and an admirer of good living--abhors
+marching, unless he has nothing to carry but his gun.
+
+Jumah is the best abused man of the party, because he has old-womanish
+ways with him, yet in his old-womanish ways he is disposed to do the
+best he can for me, though he will not carry a pound in weight without
+groaning terribly at his hard fate. To me he is sentimental and
+pathetic; to the unimportant members of the caravan he is stern and
+uncompromising. But the truth is, that I could well dispense with
+Jumah's presence: he was one of the incorrigible inutiles, eating far
+more than he was worth; besides being an excessively grumbling and
+querulous fool.
+
+Ulimengo, a strong stalwart fellow of thirty, was the maddest and most
+hare-brained of my party. Though an arrant coward, he was a consummate
+boaster. But though a devotee of pleasure and fun, he was not averse
+from work. With one hundred men such as he, I could travel through
+Africa provided there was no fighting to do. It will be remembered that
+he was the martial coryphaeus who led my little army to war against
+Mirambo, chanting the battle-song of the Wangwana; and that I stated,
+that when the retreat was determined upon, he was the first of my party
+to reach the stronghold of Mfuto. He is a swift runner, and a fair
+hunter. I have been indebted to him on several occasions for a welcome
+addition to my larder.
+
+Ferajji, a former dish-washer to Speke, was my cook. He was promoted
+to this office upon the defection of Bunder Salaam, and the extreme
+non-fitness of Abdul Kader. For cleaning dishes, the first corn-cob,
+green twig, a bunch of leaves or grass, answered Ferajji's purposes in
+the absence of a cloth. If I ordered a plate, and I pointed out a
+black, greasy, sooty thumbmark to him, a rub of a finger Ferajji thought
+sufficient to remove all objections. If I hinted that a spoon was rather
+dirty, Ferajji fancied that with a little saliva, and a rub of his loin
+cloth, the most fastidious ought to be satisfied. Every pound of meat,
+and every three spoonfuls of musk or porridge I ate in Africa, contained
+at least ten grains of sand. Ferajji was considerably exercised at a
+threat I made to him that on arrival at Zanzibar, I would get the great
+English doctor there to open my stomach, and count every grain of sand
+found in it, for each grain of which Ferajji should be charged one
+dollar. The consciousness that my stomach must contain a large number,
+for which the forfeits would be heavy, made him feel very sad at
+times. Otherwise, Ferajji was a good cook, most industrious, if not
+accomplished. He could produce a cup of tea, and three or four hot
+pancakes, within ten minutes after a halt was ordered, for which I was
+most grateful, as I was almost always hungry after a long march. Ferajji
+sided with Baraka against Bombay in Unyoro, and when Speke took Bombay's
+side of the question, Ferajji, out of love for Baraka, left Speke's
+service, and so forfeited his pay.
+
+Maganga was a Mnyamwezi, a native of Mkwenkwe, a strong, faithful
+servant, an excellent pagazi, with an irreproachable temper. He it was
+who at all times, on the march, started the wildly exuberant song of the
+Wanyamwezi porters, which, no matter how hot the sun, or how long the
+march, was sure to produce gaiety and animation among the people. At
+such times all hands sang, sang with voices that could be heard miles
+away, which made the great forests ring with the sounds, which startled
+every animal big or little, for miles around. On approaching a village
+the temper of whose people might be hostile to us, Maganga would
+commence his song, with the entire party joining in the chorus, by
+which mode we knew whether the natives were disposed to be friendly or
+hostile. If hostile, or timid, the gates would at once be closed, and
+dark faces would scowl at us from the interior; if friendly, they rushed
+outside of their gates to welcome us, or to exchange friendly remarks.
+
+An important member of the Expedition was Selim, the young Arab. Without
+some one who spoke good Arabic, I could not have obtained the friendship
+of the chief Arabs in Unyanyembe; neither could I have well communicated
+with them, for though I understood Arabic, I could not speak it.
+
+I have already related how Kalulu came to be in my service, and how he
+came to bear his present name. I soon found how apt and quick he was to
+learn, in consequence of which, he was promoted to the rank of personal
+attendant. Even Selim could not vie with Kalulu in promptness and
+celerity, or in guessing my wants at the table. His little black eyes
+were constantly roving over the dishes, studying out the problem of what
+was further necessary, or had become unnecessary.
+
+We arrived at the Ziwani, in about 4 h. 30 m. from the time of our
+quitting the scene which had well-nigh witnessed a sanguinary conflict.
+The Ziwani, or pool, contained no water, not a drop, until the parched
+tongues of my people warned them that they must proceed and excavate
+for water. This excavation was performed (by means of strong hard sticks
+sharply pointed) in the dry hard-caked bottom. After digging to a depth
+of six feet their labours were rewarded with the sight of a few drops of
+muddy liquid percolating through the sides, which were eagerly swallowed
+to relieve their raging thirst. Some voluntarily started with buckets,
+gourds, and canteens south to a deserted clearing called the "Tongoni"
+in Ukamba, and in about three hours returned with a plentiful supply for
+immediate use, of good and clear water.
+
+In 1 h. 30 m. we arrived at this Tongoni, or deserted clearing of
+the Wakamba. Here were three or four villages burnt, and an extensive
+clearing desolate, the work of the Wa-Ruga-Raga of Mirambo. Those of the
+inhabitants who were left, after the spoliation and complete destruction
+of the flourishing settlement, emigrated westerly to Ugara. A large
+herd of buffalo now slake their thirst at the pool which supplied the
+villages of Ukamba with water.
+
+Great masses of iron haematite cropped up above the surfaces in these
+forests. Wild fruit began to be abundant; the wood-apple and tamarind
+and a small plum-like fruit, furnished us with many an agreeable repast.
+
+The honey-bird is very frequent in these forests of Ukonongo. Its cry is
+a loud, quick chirrup. The Wakonongo understand how to avail themselves
+of its guidance to the sweet treasure of honey which the wild bees have
+stored in the cleft of some great tree. Daily, the Wakonongo who had
+joined our caravan brought me immense cakes of honey-comb, containing
+delicious white and red honey. The red honey-comb generally contains
+large numbers of dead bees, but our exceedingly gluttonous people
+thought little of these. They not only ate the honey-bees, but they also
+ate a good deal of the wax.
+
+As soon as the honey-bird descries the traveller, he immediately utters
+a series of wild, excited cries, hops about from twig to twig, and from
+branch to branch, then hops to another tree, incessantly repeating his
+chirruping call. The native, understanding the nature of the little
+bird, unhesitatingly follows him; but perhaps his steps are too slow for
+the impatient caller, upon which he flies back, urging him louder, more
+impatient cries, to hasten, and then darts swiftly forward, as if he
+would show how quickly he could go to the honey-store, until at last the
+treasure is reached, the native has applied fire to the bees' nest, and
+secured the honey, while the little bird preens himself, and chirrups in
+triumphant notes, as if he were informing the biped that without his aid
+he never could have found the honey.
+
+Buffalo gnats and tsetse were very troublesome on this march, owing to
+the numerous herds of game in the vicinity.
+
+On the 9th of October we made a long march in a southerly direction, and
+formed our camp in the centre of a splendid grove of trees. The water
+was very scarce on the road. The Wamrima and Wanyamwezi are not long
+able to withstand thirst. When water is plentiful they slake their
+thirst at every stream and pool; when it is scarce, as it is here and
+in the deserts of Marenga and Magunda Mkali, long afternoon-marches are
+made; the men previously, however, filling their gourds, so as to enable
+them to reach the water early next morning. Selim was never able to
+endure thirst. It mattered not how much of the precious liquid he
+carried, he generally drank it all before reaching camp, and he
+consequently suffered during the night. Besides this, he endangered
+his life by quaffing from every muddy pool; and on this day he began to
+complain that he discharged blood, which I took to be an incipient stage
+of dysentery.
+
+During these marches, ever since quitting Ugunda, a favourite topic
+at the camp-fires were the Wa-Ruga-Ruga, and their atrocities, and a
+possible encounter that we might have with these bold rovers of
+the forest. I verily believe that a sudden onset of half a dozen of
+Mirambo's people would have set the whole caravan arunning.
+
+We reached Marefu the next day, after a short three hours' march. We
+there found an embassy sent by the Arabs of Unyanyembe, to the Southern
+Watuta, bearing presents of several bales, in charge of Hassan the
+Mseguhha. This valiant leader and diplomatist had halted here some ten
+days because of wars and rumours of wars in his front. It was said that
+Mbogo, Sultan of Mboga in Ukonongo, was at war with the brother of Manwa
+Sera, and as Mbogo was a large district of Ukonongo only two days' march
+from Marefu; fear of being involved in it was deterring old Hassan from
+proceeding. He advised me also not to proceed, as it was impossible to
+be able to do so without being embroiled in the conflict. I informed
+him that I intended to proceed on my way, and take my chances, and
+graciously offered him my escort as far as the frontier of Ufipa, from
+which he could easily and safely continue on his way to the Watuta, but
+he declined it.
+
+We had now been travelling fourteen days in a south-westerly direction,
+having made a little more than one degree of latitude. I had intended to
+have gone a little further south, because it was such a good road, also
+since by going further south we should have labored under no fear of
+meeting Mirambo; but the report of this war in our front, only two days
+off, compelled me, in the interest of the Expedition, to strike across
+towards the Tanganika, an a west-by-north course through the forest,
+travelling, when it was advantageous, along elephant tracks and local
+paths. This new plan was adopted after consulting with Asmani, the
+guide. We were now in Ukonongo, having entered this district when
+we crossed the Gombe creek. The next day after arriving at Marefu we
+plunged westward, in view of the villagers, and the Arab ambassador,
+who kept repeating until the last moment that we should "certainly catch
+it."
+
+We marched eight hours through a forest, where the forest peach, or the
+"mbembu," is abundant. The tree that bears this fruit is very like
+a pear-tree, and is very productive. I saw one tree, upon which I
+estimated there were at least six or seven bushels. I ate numbers of the
+peaches on this day. So long as this fruit can be produced, a traveller
+in these regions need not fear starvation.
+
+At the base of a graceful hilly cone we found a village called Utende,
+the inhabitants of which were in a state of great alarm, as we suddenly
+appeared on the ridge above them. Diplomacy urged me to send forward a
+present of one doti to the Sultan, who, however, would not accept it,
+because he happened to be drunk with pombe, and was therefore disposed
+to be insolent. Upon being informed that he would refuse any present,
+unless he received four more cloths, I immediately ordered a strong
+boma to be constructed on the summits of a little hill, near enough to
+a plentiful supply of water, and quietly again packed up the present in
+the bale. I occupied a strategically chosen position, as I could have
+swept the face of the hill, and the entire space between its base and
+the village of Watende. Watchmen were kept on the look-out all
+night; but we were fortunately not troubled until the morning; when
+a delegation of the principal men came to ask if I intended to depart
+without having made a present to the chief. I replied to them that I did
+not intend passing through any country without making friends with the
+chief; and if their chief would accept a good cloth from me, I would
+freely give it to him. Though they demurred at the amount of the present
+at first, the difference between us was finally ended by my adding a
+fundo of red beads--sami-sami--for the chief's wife.
+
+From the hill and ridge of Utende sloped a forest for miles and miles
+westerly, which was terminated by a grand and smooth-topped ridge rising
+500 or 600 feet above the plain.
+
+A four hours' march, on the 12th of October, brought us to a nullah
+similar to the Gombe, which, during the wet season, flows to the Gombe
+River, and thence into the Malagarazi River.
+
+A little before camping we saw a herd of nimba, or pallah; I had the
+good fortune to shoot one, which was a welcome addition to our fast
+diminishing store of dried meats, prepared in our camp on the Gombe. By
+the quantity of bois de vaches, we judged buffaloes were plentiful here,
+as well as elephant and rhinoceros. The feathered species were well
+represented by ibis, fish-eagles, pelicans, storks, cranes, several
+snowy spoon-bills, and flamingoes.
+
+From the nullah, or mtoni, we proceeded to Mwaru, the principal village
+of the district of Mwaru, the chief of which is Ka-mirambo. Our march
+lay over desolated clearings once occupied by Ka-mirambo's people, but
+who were driven away by Mkasiwa some ten years ago, during his warfare
+against Manwa Sera. Niongo, the brother of the latter, now waging war
+against Mbogo, had passed through Mwaru the day before we arrived, after
+being defeated by his enemy.
+
+The hilly ridge that bounded the westward horizon, visible from Utende,
+was surmounted on this day. The western slope trends south-west, and is
+drained by the River Mrera, which empties into the Malagarazi River. We
+perceived the influence of the Tanganika, even here, though we were
+yet twelve or fifteen marches from the lake. The jungles increased in
+density, and the grasses became enormously tall; these points reminded
+us of the maritime districts of Ukwere and Ukami.
+
+We heard from a caravan at this place, just come from Ufipa, that
+a white man was reported to be in "Urua," whom I supposed to mean
+Livingstone.
+
+Upon leaving Mwaru we entered the district of Mrera, a chief who once
+possessed great power and influence over this region. Wars, however,
+have limited his possessions to three or four villages snugly embosomed
+within a jungle, whose outer rim is so dense that it serves like a stone
+wall to repel invaders. There were nine bleached skulls, stuck on the
+top of as many poles, before the principal gate of entrance, which told
+us of existing feuds between the Wakonongo and the Wazavira. This latter
+tribe dwelt in a country a few marches west of us; whose territory
+we should have to avoid, unless we sought another opportunity to
+distinguish ourselves in battle with the natives. The Wazavira, we were
+told by the Wakonongo of Mrera, were enemies to all Wangwana.
+
+In a narrow strip of marsh between Mwaru and Mrera, we saw a small herd
+of wild elephants. It was the first time I had ever seen these animals
+in their native wildness, and my first impressions of them I shall not
+readily forget. I am induced to think that the elephant deserves the
+title of "king of beasts." His huge form, the lordly way in which he
+stares at an intruder on his domain, and his whole appearance indicative
+of conscious might, afford good grounds for his claim to that title.
+This herd, as we passed it at the distance of a mile, stopped to survey
+the caravan as it passed: and, after having satisfied their curiosity,
+the elephants trooped into the forest which bounded the marshy plain
+southward, as if caravans were every-day things to them, whilst
+they--the free and unconquerable lords of the forest and the marsh--had
+nothing in common with the cowardly bipeds, who never found courage to
+face them in fair combat. The destruction which a herd makes in a forest
+is simply tremendous. When the trees are young whole swathes may be
+found uprooted and prostrate, which mark the track of the elephants as
+they "trampled their path through wood and brake."
+
+The boy Selim was so ill at this place that I was compelled to halt the
+caravan for him for two days. He seemed to be affected with a disease
+in the limbs, which caused him to sprawl, and tremble most painfully,
+besides suffering from an attack of acute dysentery. But constant
+attendance and care soon brought him round again; and on the third day
+he was able to endure the fatigue of riding.
+
+I was able to shoot several animals during our stay at Mrera. The forest
+outside of the cultivation teems with noble animals. Zebra, giraffe,
+elephant, and rhinoceros are most common; ptarmigan and guinea-fowl were
+also plentiful.
+
+The warriors of Mrera are almost all armed with muskets, of which they
+take great care. They were very importunate in their demands for flints,
+bullets, and powder, which I always made it a point to refuse, lest
+at any moment a fracas occurring they might use the ammunition thus
+supplied to my own disadvantage. The men of this village were an idle
+set, doing little but hunting, gaping, gossiping, and playing like great
+boys. During the interval of my stay at Mrera I employed a large portion
+of my time in mending my shoes, and patching up the great rents in my
+clothes, which the thorn species, during the late marches, had almost
+destroyed. Westward, beyond Mrera, was a wilderness, the transit of
+which we were warned would occupy nine days hence arose the necessity
+to purchase a large supply of grain, which, ere attempting the great
+uninhabited void in our front, was to be ground and sifted.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI. -- THROUGH UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI.
+
+     Happy auspices,--Ant-hills.--The water-shed of the Tanganika
+     Lion.--The king of Kasera.--The home of the lion and the
+     leopard.--A donkey frightens a leopard--Sublime scenes in
+     Kawendi,--Starvation imminent.--Amenities of travel in
+     Africa.--Black-mailers.--The stormy children of Uhha.--News
+     of a white man.--Energetic marches--Mionvu, chief of
+     tribute-takers.--An escape at midnight.--Toiling through the
+     jungles.--The Lake Mountains.--First view of the Tanganika.--
+     Arrival at Ujiji,--The happy meeting with Livingstone.
+
+
+We bade farewell to Mrera on the 17th of October, to continue our route
+north-westward. All the men and I were firm friends now; all squabbling
+had long ceased. Bombay and I had forgotten our quarrel; the kirangozi
+and myself were ready to embrace, so loving and affectionate were the
+terms upon which we stood towards one another. Confidence returned to
+all hearts--for now, as Mabruk Unyanyembe said, "we could smell the fish
+of the Tanganika." Unyanyembe, with all its disquietude, was far behind.
+We could snap our fingers at that terrible Mirambo and his unscrupulous
+followers, and by-and-by, perhaps, we may be able to laugh at the timid
+seer who always prophesied portentous events--Sheikh, the son of Nasib.
+We laughed joyously, as we glided in Indian file through the young
+forest jungle beyond the clearing of Mrera, and boasted of our prowess.
+Oh! we were truly brave that morning!
+
+Emerging from the jungle, we entered a thin forest, where numerous
+ant-hills were seen like so many sand-dunes. I imagine that these
+ant-hills were formed during a remarkably wet season, when, possibly,
+the forest-clad plain was inundated. I have seen the ants at work
+by thousands, engaged in the work of erecting their hills in other
+districts suffering from inundation. What a wonderful system of cells
+these tiny insects construct! A perfect labyrinth--cell within cell,
+room within room, hall within hall--an exhibition of engineering talents
+and high architectural capacity--a model city, cunningly contrived for
+safety and comfort!
+
+Emerging after a short hour's march out of the forest, we welcome the
+sight of a murmuring translucent stream, swiftly flowing towards the
+north-west, which we regard with the pleasure which only men who have
+for a long time sickened themselves with that potable liquid of the
+foulest kind, found in salinas, mbugas, pools, and puddle holes, can
+realize. Beyond this stream rises a rugged and steep ridge, from the
+summit of which our eyes are gladdened with scenes that are romantic,
+animated and picturesque. They form an unusual feast to eyes sated with
+looking into the depths of forests, at towering stems of trees, and at
+tufted crowns of foliage. We have now before us scores of cones, dotting
+the surface of a plain which extends across Southern Ukonongo to the
+territory of the Wafipa, and which reaches as far as the Rikwa Plain.
+The immense prospect before which we are suddenly ushered is most
+varied; exclusive of conical hills and ambitious flat-topped and
+isolated mountains, we are in view of the watersheds of the Rungwa
+River, which empties into the Tanganika south of where we stand, and of
+the Malagarazi River, which the Tanganika receives, a degree or so north
+of this position. A single but lengthy latitudinal ridge serves as a
+dividing line to the watershed of the Rungwa and Malagarazi; and a score
+of miles or so further west of this ridge rises another, which runs
+north and south.
+
+We camped on this day in the jungle, close to a narrow ravine with a
+marshy bottom, through the oozy, miry contents of which the waters from
+the watershed of the Rungwa slowly trickled southward towards the Rikwa
+Plain. This was only one of many ravines, however, some of which were
+several hundred yards broad, others were but a few yards in width, the
+bottoms of which were most dangerous quagmires, overgrown with dense
+tall reeds and papyrus. Over the surface of these great depths of mud
+were seen hundreds of thin threads of slimy ochre-coloured water, which
+swarmed with animalculae. By-and-by, a few miles south of the base
+of this ridge (which I call Kasera, from the country which it cuts in
+halves), these several ravines converge and debouch into the
+broad, [marshy?], oozy, spongy "river" of Usense, which trends in a
+south-easterly direction; after which, gathering the contents of the
+watercourses from the north and northeast into its own broader channel,
+it soon becomes a stream of some breadth and consequence, and meets a
+river flowing from the east, from the direction of Urori, with which it
+conflows in the Rikwa Plain, and empties about sixty rectilineal miles
+further west into the Tanganika Lake. The Rungwa River, I am informed,
+is considered as a boundary line between the country of Usowa on the
+north, and Ufipa on the south.
+
+We had barely completed the construction of our camp defences when
+some of the men were heard challenging a small party of natives which
+advanced towards our camp, headed by a man who, from his garb and
+head-dress, we knew was from Zanzibar. After interchanging the customary
+salutations, I was informed that this party was an embassy from Simba
+("Lion"), who ruled over Kasera, in Southern Unyamwezi. Simba, I was
+told, was the son of Mkasiwa, King of Unyanyembe, and was carrying on
+war with the Wazavira, of whom I was warned to beware. He had heard such
+reports of my greatness that he was sorry I did not take his road to
+Ukawendi, that he might have had the opportunity of seeing me, and
+making friends with me; but in the absence of a personal visit Simba had
+sent this embassy to overtake me, in the hope that I would present him
+with a token of my friendship in the shape of cloth. Though I was rather
+taken aback by the demand, still it was politic in me to make this
+powerful chief my friend, lest on my return from the search after
+Livingstone he and I might fall out. And since it was incumbent on me
+to make a present, for the sake of peace, it was necessary to exhibit
+my desire for peace by giving--if I gave at all--a royal present. The
+ambassador conveyed from me to Simba, or the "Lion" of Kasera, two
+gorgeous cloths, and two other doti consisting of Merikani and Kaniki;
+and, if I might believe the ambassador, I had made Simba a friend for
+ever.
+
+On the 18th of October, breaking camp at the usual hour, we continued
+our march north-westward by a road which zig-zagged along the base of
+the Kasera mountains, and which took us into all kinds of difficulties.
+We traversed at least a dozen marshy ravines, the depth of mire and
+water in which caused the utmost anxiety. I sunk up to my neck in deep
+holes in the Stygian ooze caused by elephants, and had to tramp through
+the oozy beds of the Rungwa sources with any clothes wet and black with
+mud and slime. Decency forbade that I should strip; and the hot sun
+would also blister my body. Moreover, these morasses were too frequent
+to lose time in undressing and dressing, and, as each man was weighted
+with his own proper load, it would have been cruel to compel the men
+to bear me across. Nothing remained, therefore, but to march on, all
+encumbered as I was with my clothing and accoutrements, into these
+several marshy watercourses, with all the philosophical stoicism that my
+nature could muster for such emergencies. But it was very uncomfortable,
+to say the least of it.
+
+We soon entered the territory of the dreaded Wazavira, but no enemy was
+in sight. Simba, in his wars, had made clean work of the northern
+part of Uzavira, and we encountered nothing worse than a view of the
+desolated country, which must have been once--judging from the number
+of burnt huts and debris of ruined villages--extremely populous. A young
+jungle was sprouting up vigorously in their fields, and was rapidly
+becoming the home of wild denizens of the forest. In one of the deserted
+and ruined villages, I found quarters for the Expedition, which were
+by no means uncomfortable. I shot three brace of guinea-fowl in the
+neighbourhood of Misonghi, the deserted village we occupied, and
+Ulimengo, one of my hunters, bagged an antelope, called the "mbawala,"
+for whose meat some of the Wanyamwezi have a superstitious aversion. I
+take this species of antelope, which stands about three and a half
+feet high, of a reddish hide, head long, horns short, to be the "Nzoe"
+antelope discovered by Speke in Uganda, and whose Latin designation
+is, according to Dr. Sclater, "Tragelaphus Spekii." It has a short bushy
+tail, and long hair along the spine.
+
+A long march in a west-by-north direction, lasting six hours, through
+a forest where the sable antelope was seen, and which was otherwise
+prolific with game, brought us to a stream which ran by the base of
+a lofty conical hill, on whose slopes flourished quite a forest of
+feathery bamboo.
+
+On the 20th, leaving our camp, which lay between the stream and the
+conical hill above mentioned, and surmounting a low ridge which sloped
+from the base of the hill-cone, we were greeted with another picturesque
+view, of cones and scarped mountains, which heaved upward in all
+directions. A march of nearly five hours through this picturesque
+country brought us to the Mpokwa River, one of the tributaries of the
+Rungwa, and to a village lately deserted by the Wazavira. The huts
+were almost all intact, precisely as they were left by their former
+inhabitants. In the gardens were yet found vegetables, which, after
+living so long on meat, were most grateful to us. On the branches of
+trees still rested the Lares and Penates of the Wazavira, in the shape
+of large and exceedingly well-made earthen pots.
+
+In the neighbouring river one of my men succeeded, in few minutes, in
+catching sixty fish of the silurus species the hand alone. A number of
+birds hovered about stream, such as the white-headed fish-eagle and the
+kingfisher, enormous, snowy spoonbills, ibis, martins, &c. This river
+issued from a mountain clump eight miles or so north of the village
+of Mpokwa, and comes flowing down a narrow thread of water, sinuously
+winding amongst tall reeds and dense brakes on either side-the home
+of hundreds of antelopes and buffaloes. South of Mpokwa, the valley
+broadens, and the mountains deflect eastward and westward, and beyond
+this point commences the plain known as the Rikwa, which, during the
+Masika is inundated, but which, in the dry season, presents the same
+bleached aspect that plains in Africa generally do when the grass has
+ripened.
+
+Travelling up along the right bank of the Mpokwa, on the 21st we came
+to the head of the stream, and the sources of the Mpokwa, issuing out of
+deep defiles enclosed by lofty ranges. The mbawala and the buffalo were
+plentiful.
+
+On the 22nd, after a march of four hours and a half, we came to the
+beautiful stream of Mtambu--the water of which was sweet, and clear as
+crystal, and flowed northward. We saw for the first time the home of the
+lion and the leopard. Hear what Freiligrath says of the place:
+
+
+     Where the thorny brake and thicket
+     Densely fill the interspace
+     Of the trees, through whose thick branches
+     Never sunshine lights the place,
+     There the lion dwells, a monarch,
+     Mightiest among the brutes;
+     There his right to reign supremest
+     Never one his claim disputes.
+     There he layeth down to slumber,
+     Having slain and ta'en his fill;
+     There he roameth, there be croucheth,
+     As it suits his lordly will.
+
+
+We camped but a few yards from just such a place as the poet describes.
+The herd-keeper who attended the goats and donkeys, soon after our
+arrival in camp, drove the animals to water, and in order to obtain it
+they travelled through a tunnel in the brake, caused by elephants and
+rhinoceros. They had barely entered the dark cavernous passage, when a
+black-spotted leopard sprang, and fastened its fangs in the neck of
+one of the donkeys, causing it, from the pain, to bray hideously. Its
+companions set up such a frightful chorus, and so lashed their heels in
+the air at the feline marauder, that the leopard bounded away through
+the brake, as if in sheer dismay at the noisy cries which the attack
+had provoked. The donkey's neck exhibited some frightful wounds, but the
+animal was not dangerously hurt.
+
+Thinking that possibly I might meet with an adventure with a lion or a
+leopard in that dark belt of tall trees, under whose impenetrable
+shade grew the dense thicket that formed such admirable coverts for the
+carnivorous species, I took a stroll along the awesome place with
+the gunbearer, Kalulu, carrying an extra gun, and a further supply of
+ammunition. We crept cautiously along, looking keenly into the deep
+dark dens, the entrances of which were revealed to us, as we journeyed,
+expectant every moment to behold the reputed monarch of the brake and
+thicket, bound forward to meet us, and I took a special delight in
+picturing, in my imagination, the splendor and majesty of the wrathful
+brute, as he might stand before me. I peered closely into every dark
+opening, hoping to see the deadly glitter of the great angry eyes, and
+the glowering menacing front of the lion as he would regard me. But,
+alas! after an hour's search for adventure, I had encountered nothing,
+and I accordingly waxed courageous, and crept into one of these leafy,
+thorny caverns, and found myself shortly standing under a canopy of
+foliage that was held above my head fully a hundred feet by the shapely
+and towering stems of the royal mvule. Who can imagine the position? A
+smooth lawn-like glade; a dense and awful growth of impenetrable jungle
+around us; those stately natural pillars--a glorious phalanx of royal
+trees, bearing at such sublime heights vivid green masses of foliage,
+through which no single sun-ray penetrated, while at our feet babbled
+the primeval brook, over smooth pebbles, in soft tones befitting the
+sacred quiet of the scene! Who could have desecrated this solemn, holy
+harmony of nature? But just as I was thinking it impossible that any man
+could be tempted to disturb the serene solitude of the place, I saw
+a monkey perched high on a branch over my head, contemplating, with
+something of an awe-struck look, the strange intruders beneath. Well, I
+could not help it, I laughed--laughed loud and long, until I was hushed
+by the chaos of cries and strange noises which seemed to respond to my
+laughing. A troop of monkeys, hidden in the leafy depths above, had been
+rudely awakened, and, startled by the noise I made, were hurrying away
+from the scene with a dreadful clamor of cries and shrieks.
+
+Emerging again into the broad sunlight, I strolled further in search
+of something to shoot. Presently, I saw, feeding quietly in the
+forest which bounded the valley of the Mtambu on the left, a huge,
+reddish-coloured wild boar, armed with most horrid tusks. Leaving Kalulu
+crouched down behind a tree, and my solar helmet behind another close
+by--that I might more safely stalk the animal--I advanced towards him
+some forty yards, and after taking a deliberate aim, fired at his fore
+shoulder. As if nothing had hurt him whatever, the animal made a furious
+bound, and then stood with his bristles erected, and tufted tail, curved
+over the back--a most formidable brute in appearance. While he was thus
+listening, and searching the neighbourhood with his keen, small eyes,
+I planted another shot in his chest, which ploughed its way through his
+body. Instead of falling, however, as I expected he would, he charged
+furiously in the direction the bullet had come, and as he rushed past
+me, another ball was fired, which went right through him; but still he
+kept on, until, within six or seven yards from the trees behind which
+Kalulu was crouching down on one side, and the helmet was resting behind
+another, he suddenly halted, and then dropped. But as I was about to
+advance on him with my knife to cut his throat, he suddenly started
+up; his eyes had caught sight of the little boy Kalulu, and were then,
+almost immediately afterwards, attracted by the sight of the snowy
+helmet. These strange objects on either side of him proved too much for
+the boar, for, with a terrific grunt, he darted on one side into a
+thick brake, from which it was impossible to oust him, and as it was now
+getting late, and the camp was about three miles away, I was reluctantly
+obliged to return without the meat.
+
+On our way to camp we were accompanied by a large animal which
+persistently followed us on our left. It was too dark to see plainly,
+but a large form was visible, if not very clearly defined. It must have
+been a lion, unless it was the ghost of the dead boar.
+
+That night, about 11 P.M., we were startled by the roar of a lion, in
+close proximity to the camp. Soon it was joined by another, and another
+still, and the novelty of the thing kept me awake. I peered through
+the gate of the camp, and endeavoured to sight a rifle--my little
+Winchester, in the accuracy of which I had perfect confidence; but,
+alas! for the cartridges, they might have been as well filled with
+sawdust for all the benefit I derived from them. Disgusted with the
+miserable ammunition, I left the lions alone, and turned in, with their
+roaring as a lullaby.
+
+That terrestrial paradise for the hunter, the valley of the pellucid
+Mtambu, was deserted by us the next morning for the settlement commonly
+known to the Wakawendi as Imrera's, with as much unconcern as though
+it were a howling desert. The village near which we encamped was called
+Itaga, in the district of Rusawa. As soon as we had crossed the River
+Mtambu we had entered Ukawendi, commonly called "Kawendi" by the natives
+of the country.
+
+The district of Rusawa is thickly populated. The people are quiet and
+well-disposed to strangers, though few ever come to this region from
+afar. One or two Wasawahili traders visit it every year or so from
+Pumburu and Usowa; but very little ivory being obtained from the people,
+the long distance between the settlements serves to deter the regular
+trader from venturing hither.
+
+If caravans arrive here, the objective point to them is the district
+of Pumburu, situated south-westerly one day's good marching, or,
+say, thirty statute miles from Imrera; or they make for Usowa, on the
+Tanganika, via Pumburu, Katuma, Uyombeh, and Ugarawah. Usowa is quite an
+important district on the Tanganika, populous and flourishing. This was
+the road we had intended to adopt after leaving Imrera, but the reports
+received at the latter place forbade such a venture. For Mapunda, the
+Sultan of Usowa, though a great friend to Arab traders, was at war with
+the colony of the Wazavira, who we must remember were driven from
+Mpokwa and vicinity in Utanda, and who were said to have settled between
+Pumburu and Usowa.
+
+It remained for us, like wise, prudent men, having charge of a large and
+valuable Expedition on our hands, to decide what to do, and what route
+to adopt, now that we had approached much nearer to Ujiji than we were
+to Unyanyembe. I suggested that we should make direct for the Tanganika
+by compass, trusting to no road or guide, but to march direct west until
+we came to the Tanganika, and then follow the lake shore on foot until
+we came to Ujiji. For it ever haunted my mind, that, if Dr. Livingstone
+should hear of my coming, which he might possibly do if I travelled
+along any known road, he would leave, and that my search for him would
+consequently be a "stern chase." But my principal men thought it better
+that we should now boldly turn our faces north, and march for the
+Malagarazi, which was said to be a large river flowing from the east
+to the Tanganika. But none of my men knew the road to the Malagarazi,
+neither could guides be hired from Sultan Imrera. We were, however,
+informed that the Malagarazi was but two days' march from Imrera. I
+thought it safe, in such a case, to provision my men with three days'
+rations. The village of Itaga is situated in a deep mountain hollow,
+finely overlooking a large extent of cultivation. The people grow sweet
+potatoes, manioc--out of which tapioca is made--beans, and the holcus.
+Not one chicken could be purchased for love or money, and, besides
+grain, only a lean, scraggy specimen of a goat, a long time ago imported
+form Uvinza, was procurable.
+
+October the 25th will be remembered by me as a day of great troubles; in
+fact, a series of troubles began from this date. We struck an easterly
+road in order to obtain a passage to the lofty plateau which bounded the
+valley of Imrera on the west and on the north. We camped, after a two
+and a half hours' march, at its foot. The defile promised a feasible
+means of ascent to the summit of the plateau, which rose upward in a
+series of scarps a thousand feet above the valley of Imrera.
+
+While ascending that lofty arc of mountains which bounded westerly
+and northerly the basin of Imrera, extensive prospects southward and
+eastward were revealed. The character of the scenery at Ukawendi is
+always animated and picturesque, but never sublime. The folds of this
+ridge contained several ruins of bomas, which seemed to have been
+erected during war time.
+
+The mbemba fruit was plentiful along this march, and every few minutes I
+could see from the rear one or two men hastening to secure a treasure of
+it which they discovered on the ground.
+
+A little before reaching the camp I had a shot at a leopard, but failed
+to bring him down as he bounded away. At night the lions roared as at
+the Mtambu River.
+
+A lengthy march under the deep twilight shadows of a great forest, which
+protected us from the hot sunbeams, brought us, on the next day, to a
+camp newly constructed by a party of Arabs from Ujiji, who had advanced
+thus far on their road to Unyanyembe, but, alarmed at the reports of the
+war between Mirambo and the Arabs, had returned. Our route was along the
+right bank of the Rugufu, a broad sluggish stream, well choked with
+the matete reeds and the papyrus. The tracks and the bois de vaches
+of buffaloes were numerous, and there were several indications of
+rhinoceros being near. In a deep clump of timber near this river we
+discovered a colony of bearded and leonine-looking monkeys.
+
+As we were about leaving our camp on the morning of the 28th a herd of
+buffalo walked deliberately into view. Silence was quickly restored,
+but not before the animals, to their great surprise, had discovered the
+danger which confronted them. We commenced stalking them, but we soon
+heard the thundering sound of their gallop, after which it becomes a
+useless task to follow them, with a long march in a wilderness before
+one.
+
+The road led on this day over immense sheets of sandstone and iron ore.
+The water was abominable, and scarce, and famine began to stare us
+in the face. We travelled for six hours, and had yet seen no sign of
+cultivation anywhere. According to my map we were yet two long marches
+from the Malagarazi--if Captain Burton had correctly laid down the
+position of the river; according to the natives' account, we should have
+arrived at the Malagarazi on this day.
+
+On the 29th we left our camp, and after a few minutes, we were in view
+of the sublimest, but ruggedest, scenes we had yet beheld in Africa. The
+country was cut up in all directions by deep, wild, and narrow ravines
+trending in all directions, but generally toward the north-west, while
+on either side rose enormous square masses of naked rock (sandstone),
+sometimes towering, and rounded, sometimes pyramidal, sometimes in
+truncated cones, sometimes in circular ridges, with sharp, rugged, naked
+backs, with but little vegetation anywhere visible, except it obtained
+a precarious tenure in the fissured crown of some gigantic hill-top,
+whither some soil had fallen, or at the base of the reddish ochre scarps
+which everywhere lifted their fronts to our view.
+
+A long series of descents down rocky gullies, wherein we were environed
+by threatening masses of disintegrated rock, brought us to a dry, stony
+ravine, with mountain heights looming above us a thousand feet high.
+This ravine we followed, winding around in all directions, but which
+gradually widened, however, into a broad plain, with a western trend.
+The road, leaving this, struck across a low ridge to the north; and we
+were in view of deserted settlements where the villages were built on
+frowning castellated masses of rock. Near an upright mass of rock over
+seventy feet high, and about fifty yards in diameter, which dwarfed the
+gigantic sycamore close to it, we made our camp, after five hours and
+thirty minutes' continuous and rapid marching.
+
+The people were very hungry; they had eaten every scrap of meat, and
+every grain they possessed, twenty hours before, and there was no
+immediate prospect of food. I had but a pound and a half of flour
+left, and this would not have sufficed to begin to feed a force of over
+forty-five people; but I had something like thirty pounds of tea, and
+twenty pounds of sugar left, and I at once, as soon as we arrived at
+camp, ordered every kettle to be filled and placed on the fire, and then
+made tea for all; giving each man a quart of a hot, grateful beverage;
+well sweetened. Parties stole out also into the depths: of the jungle
+to search for wild fruit, and soon returned laden with baskets of the
+wood-peach and tamarind fruit, which though it did not satisfy, relieved
+them. That night, before going to sleep, the Wangwana set up a loud
+prayer to "Allah" to give them food.
+
+We rose betimes in the morning, determined to travel on until food
+could be procured, or we dropped down from sheer fatigue and weakness.
+Rhinoceros' tracks abounded, and buffalo seemed to be plentiful, but
+we never beheld a living thing. We crossed scores of short steeps,
+and descended as often into the depths of dry, stony gullies, and then
+finally entered a valley, bounded on one side by a triangular mountain
+with perpendicular sides, and on the other by a bold group, a triplet
+of hills. While marching down this valley--which soon changed its dry,
+bleached aspect to a vivid green--we saw a forest in the distance, and
+shortly found ourselves in corn-fields. Looking keenly around for a
+village, we descried it on the summit of the lofty triangular hill on
+our right. A loud exultant shout was raised at the discovery. The men
+threw down their packs, and began to clamour for food. Volunteers were
+asked to come forward to take cloth, and scale the heights to obtain
+it from the village, at any price. While three or four sallied off we
+rested on the ground, quite worn out. In about an hour the foraging
+party returned with the glorious tidings that food was plentiful;
+that the village we saw was called, "Welled Nzogera's"--the son of
+Nzogera--by which, of course, we knew that we were in Uvinza, Nzogera
+being the principal chief in Uvinza. We were further informed that
+Nzogera, the father, was at war with Lokanda-Mire, about some salt-pans
+in the valley of the Malagarazi, and that it would be difficult to go
+to Ujiji by the usual road, owing to this war; but, for a consideration,
+the son of Nzogera was willing to supply us with guides, who would take
+us safely, by a northern road, to Ujiji.
+
+Everything auguring well for our prospects, we encamped to enjoy the
+good cheer, for which our troubles and privations, during the transit of
+the Ukawendi forests and jungles, had well prepared us.
+
+I am now going to extract from my Diary of the march, as, without its
+aid, I deem it impossible to relate fully our various experiences, so as
+to show them properly as they occurred to us; and as these extracts
+were written and recorded at the close of each day, they possess more
+interest, in my opinion, than a cold relation of facts, now toned down
+in memory.
+
+October 31st. Tuesday.--Our road led E.N.E. for a considerable time
+after leaving the base of the triangular mountain whereon the son of
+Nzogera has established his stronghold, in order to avoid a deep and
+impassable portion of marsh, that stood between us and the direct route
+to the Malagarazi River. The valley sloped rapidly to this marsh, which
+received in its broad bosom the drainage of three extensive ranges. Soon
+we turned our faces northwest, and prepared to cross the marsh; and
+the guides informed us, as we halted on its eastern bank, of a terrible
+catastrophe which occurred a few yards above where we were preparing to
+cross. They told of an Arab and his caravan, consisting of thirty-five
+slaves, who had suddenly sunk out of sight, and who were never more
+heard of. This marsh, as it appeared to us, presented a breadth of some
+hundreds of yards, on which grew a close network of grass, with much
+decayed matter mixed up with it. In the centre of this, and underneath
+it, ran a broad, deep, and rapid stream. As the guides proceeded across,
+the men stole after them with cautious footsteps. As they arrived near
+the centre we began to see this unstable grassy bridge, so curiously
+provided by nature for us, move up and down in heavy languid
+undulations, like the swell of the sea after a storm. Where the two
+asses of the Expedition moved, the grassy waves rose a foot high; but
+suddenly one unfortunate animal plunged his feet through, and as he was
+unable to rise, he soon made a deep hollow, which was rapidly filling
+with water. With the aid of ten men, however, we were enabled to lift
+him bodily up and land him on a firmer part, and guiding them both
+across rapidly, the entire caravan crossed without accident.
+
+On arriving at the other side, we struck off to the north, and
+found ourselves in a delightful country, in every way suitable for
+agriculturists. Great rocks rose here and there, but in their fissures
+rose stately trees, under whose umbrage nestled the villages of the
+people. We found the various village elders greedy for cloth, but the
+presence of the younger son of Nzogera's men restrained their propensity
+for extortion. Goats and sheep were remarkably cheap, and in good
+condition; and, consequently, to celebrate our arrival near the
+Malagarazi, a flock of eight goats was slaughtered, and distributed to
+the men.
+
+November 1st.--Striking north-west, after leaving our camp, and
+descending the slope of a mountain, we soon beheld the anxiously
+looked-for Malagarazi, a narrow but deep stream, flowing through a
+valley pent in by lofty mountains. Fish-eating birds lined the trees on
+its banks; villages were thickly scattered about. Food was abundant and
+cheap.
+
+After travelling along the left bank of the river a few miles, we
+arrived at the settlements recognizing Kiala as their ruler. I
+had anticipated we should be able at once to cross the river, but
+difficulties arose. We were told to camp, before any negotiations could
+be entered into. When we demurred, we were informed we might cross the
+river if we wished, but we should not be assisted by any Mvinza.
+
+Being compelled to halt for this day, the tent was pitched in the middle
+of one of the villages, and the bales were stored in one of the huts,
+with four soldiers to guard them. After despatching an embassy to Kiala,
+eldest son of the great chief Nzogera, to request permission to cross
+the river as a peaceable caravan, Kiala sent word that the white man
+should cross his river after the payment of fifty-six cloths! Fifty-six
+cloths signified a bale nearly!
+
+Here was another opportunity for diplomacy. Bombay and Asmani were
+empowered to treat with Kiala about the honga, but it was not to exceed
+twenty-five doti. At 6 A.M., having spoken for seven hours, the two men
+returned, with the demand for thirteen doti for Nzogera, and ten doti
+for Kiala. Poor Bombay was hoarse, but Asmani still smiled; and I
+relented, congratulating myself that the preposterous demand, which was
+simply robbery, was no worse.
+
+Three hours later another demand was made. Kiala had been visited by a
+couple of chiefs from his father; and the chiefs being told that a white
+man was at the ferry, put in a claim for a couple of guns and a keg of
+gunpowder. But here my patience was exhausted, and I declared that
+they should have to take them by force, for I would never consent to be
+robbed and despoiled after any such fashion.
+
+Until 11 P.M., Bombay and Asmani were negotiating about this extra
+demand, arguing, quarreling, threatening, until Bombay declared they
+would talk him mad if it lasted much longer. I told Bombay to take two
+cloths, one for each chief, and, if they did not consider it enough,
+then I should fight. The present was taken, and the negotiations were
+terminated at midnight.
+
+November 2nd.--Ihata Island, one and a half hour west of Kiala's. We
+arrived before the Island of Ihata, on the left bank of the Malagarazi,
+at 5 p.m.; the morning having been wasted in puerile talk with the owner
+of the canoes at the ferry. The final demand for ferriage across was
+eight yards of cloth and four fundo* of sami-sami, or red beads; which
+was at once paid. Four men, with their loads, were permitted to cross in
+the small, unshapely, and cranky canoes. When the boatmen had discharged
+their canoes of their passengers and cargoes, they were ordered to halt
+on the other side, and, to my astonishment, another demand was made. The
+ferrymen had found that two fundo of these were of short measure, and
+two fundo more must be paid, otherwise the contract for ferrying us
+across would be considered null and void. So two fundo more were
+added, but not without demur and much "talk," which in these lands is
+necessary.
+
+** 4 fundo == 40 necklaces; 1 fundo being 10 necklaces.
+
+Three times the canoes went backwards and forwards, when, lo! another
+demand was made, with the usual clamour and fierce wordy dispute; this
+time for five khete # for the man who guided us to the ferry, a shukka
+of cloth for a babbler, who had attached himself to the old-womanish
+Jumah, who did nothing but babble and increase the clamor. These demands
+were also settled.
+
+# Necklaces.
+
+About sunset we endeavoured to cross the donkeys. "Simba," a fine wild
+Kinyamwezi donkey, went in first, with a rope attached to his neck.
+He had arrived at the middle of the stream when we saw him begin to
+struggle--a crocodile had seized him by the throat. The poor animal's
+struggles were terrific. Chowpereh was dragging on the rope with all his
+might, but to no use, for the donkey sank, and we saw no more of him.
+The depth of the river at this place was about fifteen feet. We had
+seen the light-brown heads, the glittering eyes, and the ridgy backs,
+hovering about the vicinity, but we had never thought that the reptiles
+would advance so near such an exciting scene as the vicinity of the
+ferry presented during the crossing. Saddened a little by this loss, we
+resumed our work, and by 7 P.M. we were all across, excepting Bombay and
+the only donkey now left, which was to be brought across in the morning,
+when the crocodiles should have deserted the river.
+
+November 3rd.--What contention have we not been a witness to these last
+three days! What anxiety have we not suffered ever since our arrival in
+Uvinza! The Wavinza are worse than the Wagogo, and their greed is
+more insatiable. We got the donkey across with the aid of a mganga, or
+medicine man, who spat some chewed leaves of a tree which grows close
+to the stream over him. He informed me he could cross the river at any
+time, day or night, after rubbing his body with these chewed leaves,
+which he believed to be a most potent medicine.
+
+About 10 A.M. appeared from the direction of Ujiji a caravan of eighty
+Waguhha, a tribe which occupies a tract of country on the south-western
+side of the Lake Tanganika. We asked the news, and were told a white man
+had just arrived at Ujiji from Manyuema. This news startled us all.
+
+"A white man?" we asked.
+
+"Yes, a white man," they replied.
+
+"How is he dressed?"
+
+"Like the master," they answered, referring to me.
+
+"Is he young, or old?"
+
+"He is old. He has white hair on his face, and is sick."
+
+"Where has he come from?"
+
+"From a very far country away beyond Uguhha, called Manyuema."
+
+"Indeed! and is he stopping at Ujiji now?"
+
+"Yes, we saw him about eight days ago."
+
+"Do you think he will stop there until we see him?"
+
+"Sigue" (don't know).
+
+"Was he ever at Ujiji before?"
+
+"Yes, he went away a long time ago."
+
+Hurrah! This is Livingstone! He must be Livingstone! He can be no other;
+but still;--he may be some one else--some one from the West Coast--or
+perhaps he is Baker! No; Baker has no white hair on his face. But we
+must now march quick, lest he hears we are coming, and runs away.
+
+I addressed my men, and asked them if they were willing to march to
+Ujiji without a single halt, and then promised them, if they acceded to
+my wishes, two doti each man. All answered in the affirmative, almost as
+much rejoiced as I was myself. But I was madly rejoiced; intensely eager
+to resolve the burning question, "Is it Dr. David Livingstone?" God
+grant me patience, but I do wish there was a railroad, or, at least,
+horses in this country.
+
+We set out at once from the banks of the Malagarazi, accompanied by two
+guides furnished us by Usenge, the old man of the ferry, who, now that
+we had crossed, showed himself more amiably disposed to us. We arrived
+at the village of Isinga, Sultan Katalambula, after a little over an
+hour's march across a saline plain, but which as we advanced into the
+interior became fertile and productive.
+
+November 4th.--Started early with great caution, maintaining deep
+silence. The guides were sent forward, one two hundred yards ahead of
+the other, that we might be warned in time. The first part of the march
+was through a thin jungle of dwarf trees, which got thinner and thinner
+until finally it vanished altogether, and we had entered Uhha--a plain
+country. Villages were visible by the score among the tall bleached
+stalks of dourra and maize. Sometimes three, sometimes five, ten, or
+twenty beehive-shaped huts formed a village. The Wahha were evidently
+living in perfect security, for not one village amongst them all was
+surrounded with the customary defence of an African village. A narrow
+dry ditch formed the only boundary between Uhha and Uvinza. On entering
+Uhha, all danger from Makumbi vanished.
+
+We halted at Kawanga, the chief of which lost no time in making us
+understand that he was the great Mutware of Kimenyi under the king, and
+that he was the tribute gatherer for his Kiha majesty. He declared that
+he was the only one in Kimenyi--an eastern division of Uhha--who could
+demand tribute; and that it would be very satisfactory to him, and a
+saving of trouble to ourselves, if we settled his claim of twelve doti
+of good cloths at once. We did not think it the best way of proceeding,
+knowing as we did the character of the native African; so we at once
+proceeded to diminish this demand; but, after six hours' hot argument,
+the Mutware only reduced it by two. This claim was then settled, upon
+the understanding that we should be allowed to travel through Uhha as
+far as the Rusugi River without being further mulcted.
+
+November 5th.--Leaving Kawanga early in the morning and continuing our
+march over the boundless plains, which were bleached white by the hot
+equatorial sun, we were marching westward full of pleasant anticipations
+that we were nearing the end of our troubles, joyfully congratulating
+ourselves that within five days we should see that which I had come so
+far from civilisation, and through so many difficulties, to see, and
+were about passing a cluster of villages, with all the confidence which
+men possess against whom no one had further claim or a word to say, when
+I noticed two men darting from a group of natives who were watching
+us, and running towards the head of the Expedition, with the object,
+evidently, of preventing further progress.
+
+The caravan stopped, and I walked forward to ascertain the cause from
+the two natives. I was greeted politely by the two Wahha with the
+usual "Yambos," and was then asked, "Why does the white man pass by the
+village of the King of Uhha without salutation and a gift? Does not
+the white man know there lives a king in Uhha, to whom the Wangwana and
+Arabs pay something for right of passage?"
+
+"Why, we paid last night to the chief of Kawanga, who informed us that
+he was the man deputed by the King of Uhha to collect the toll."
+
+"How much did you pay?"
+
+"Ten doti of good cloth."
+
+"Are you sure?"
+
+"Quite sure. If you ask him, he will tell you so."
+
+"Well," said one of the Wahha, a fine, handsome, intelligent-looking
+youth, "it is our duty to the king to halt you here until we find out
+the truth of this. Will you walk to our village, and rest yourselves
+under the shade of our trees until we can send messengers to Kawanga?"
+
+"No; the sun is but an hour high, and we have far to travel; but, in
+order to show you we do not seek to pass through your country without
+doing that which is right, we will rest where we now stand, and we will
+send with your messengers two of our soldiers, who will show you the man
+to whom we paid the cloth."
+
+The messengers departed; but, in the meantime, the handsome youth, who
+turned out to be the nephew of the King, whispered some order to a lad,
+who immediately hastened away, with the speed of an antelope, to the
+cluster of villages which we had just passed. The result of this errand,
+as we saw in a short time, was the approach of a body of warriors, about
+fifty in number, headed by a tall, fine-looking man, who was dressed in
+a crimson robe called Joho, two ends of which were tied in a knot over
+the left shoulder; a new piece of American sheeting was folded like a
+turban around his head, and a large curved piece of polished ivory was
+suspended to his neck. He and his people were all armed with spears, and
+bows and arrows, and their advance was marked with a deliberation that
+showed they felt confidence in any issue that might transpire.
+
+We were halted on the eastern side of the Pombwe stream, near the
+village of Lukomo, in Kimenyi, Uhha. The gorgeously-dressed chief was
+a remarkable man in appearance. His face was oval in form, high
+cheek-bones, eyes deeply sunk, a prominent and bold forehead, a fine
+nose, and a well-cut mouth; he was tall in figure, and perfectly
+symmetrical.
+
+When near to us, he hailed me with the words,
+
+"Yambo, bana?--How do you do, master?" in quite a cordial tone.
+
+I replied cordially also, "Yambo, mutware?--How do you do, chief?"
+
+We, myself and men, interchanged "Yambos" with his warriors; and there
+was nothing in our first introduction to indicate that the meeting was
+of a hostile character.
+
+The chief seated himself, his haunches resting on his heels, laying down
+his bow and arrows by his side; his men did likewise.
+
+I seated myself on a bale, and each of my men sat down on their loads,
+forming quite a semicircle. The Wahha slightly outnumbered my party;
+but, while they were only armed with bows and arrows, spears, and
+knob-sticks, we were armed with rifles, muskets, revolvers, pistols, and
+hatchets.
+
+All were seated, and deep silence was maintained by the assembly. The
+great plains around us were as still in this bright noon as if they were
+deserted of all living creatures. Then the chief spoke:
+
+"I am Mionvu, the great Mutware of Kimenyi, and am next to the King, who
+lives yonder," pointing to a large village near some naked hills about
+ten miles to the north. "I have come to talk with the white man. It has
+always been the custom of the Arabs and the Wangwana to make a present
+to the King when they pass through his country. Does not the white man
+mean to pay the King's dues? Why does the white man halt in the road?
+Why will he not enter the village of Lukomo, where there is food and
+shade--where we can discuss this thing quietly? Does the white man mean
+to fight? I know well he is stronger than we are. His men have guns, and
+the Wahha have but bows and arrows, and spears; but Uhha is large, and
+our villages are many. Let him look about him everywhere--all is Uhha,
+and our country extends much further than he can see or walk in a day.
+The King of Uhha is strong; yet he wishes friendship only with the white
+man. Will the white man have war or peace?"
+
+A deep murmur of assent followed this speech of Mionvu from his people,
+and disapprobation, blended with a certain uneasiness; from my men. When
+about replying, the words of General Sherman, which I heard him utter to
+the chiefs of the Arapahoes and Cheyennes at North Platte, in 1867,
+came to my mind; and something of their spirit I embodied in my reply to
+Mionvu, Mutware of Kimenyi.
+
+"Mionvu, the great Mutware, asks me if I have come for war. When did
+Mionvu ever hear of white men warring against black men? Mionvu must
+understand that the white men are different from the black. White men do
+not leave their country to fight the black people, neither do they
+come here to buy ivory or slaves. They come to make friends with black
+people; they come to search for rivers; and lakes, and mountains; they
+come to discover what countries, what peoples, what rivers, what lakes,
+what forests, what plains, what mountains and hills are in your country;
+to know the different animals that are in the land of the black people,
+that, when they go back, they may tell the white kings, and men, and
+children, what they have seen and heard in the land so far from them.
+The white people are different from the Arabs and Wangwana; the white
+people know everything, and are very strong. When they fight, the Arabs
+and the Wangwana run away. We have great guns which thunder, and when
+they shoot the earth trembles; we have guns which carry bullets further
+than you can see: even with these little things" (pointing to my
+revolvers) "I could kill ten men quicker than you could count. We are
+stronger than the Wahha. Mionvu has spoken the truth, yet we do not wish
+to fight. I could kill Mionvu now, yet I talk to him as to a friend. I
+wish to be a friend to Mionvu, and to all black people. Will Mionvu say
+what I can do for him?"
+
+As these words were translated to him--imperfectly, I suppose, but
+still, intelligibly--the face of the Wahha showed how well they
+appreciated them. Once or twice I thought I detected something like
+fear, but my assertions that I desired peace and friendship with them
+soon obliterated all such feelings.
+
+Mionvu replied:
+
+"The white man tells me he is friendly. Why does he not come to our
+village? Why does he stop on the road? The sun is hot. Mionvu will not
+speak here any more. If the white man is a friend he will come to the
+village."
+
+"We must stop now. It is noon. You have broken our march. We will go and
+camp in your village," I said, at the same time rising and pointing to
+the men to take up their loads.
+
+We were compelled to camp; there was no help for it; the messengers had
+not returned from Kawanga. Having arrived in his village, Mionvu had
+cast himself at full length under the scanty shade afforded by a few
+trees within the boma. About 2 P.M. the messengers returned, saying it
+was true the chief of Kawanga had taken ten cloths; not, however for the
+King of Uhha, but for himself!
+
+Mionvu, who evidently was keen-witted, and knew perfectly what he was
+about, now roused himself, and began to make miniature faggots of thin
+canes, ten in each faggot, and shortly he presented ten of these small
+bundles, which together contained one hundred, to me, saying each stick
+represented a cloth, and the amount of the "honga" required by the King
+of Uhha was ONE HUNDRED CLOTHS!--nearly two bales!
+
+Recovering from our astonishment, which was almost indescribable, we
+offered TEN.
+
+"Ten! to the King of Uhha! Impossible. You do not stir from Lukomo until
+you pay us one hundred!" exclaimed Mionvu, in a significant manner.
+
+I returned no answer, but went to my hut, which Mionvu had cleared for
+my use, and Bombay, Asmani, Mabruki, and Chowpereh were invited--to come
+to me for consultation. Upon my asking them if we could not fight our
+way through Uhha, they became terror-stricken, and Bombay, in imploring
+accents, asked me to think well what I was about to do, because it was
+useless to enter on a war with the Wahha. "Uhha is all a plain country;
+we cannot hide anywhere. Every village will rise all about us, and how
+can forty-five men fight thousands of people? They would kill us all in
+a few minutes, and how would you ever reach Ujiji if you died? Think of
+it, my dear master, and do not throw your life away for a few rags of
+cloth."
+
+"Well, but, Bombay, this is robbery. Shall we submit to be robbed? Shall
+we give this fellow everything he asks? He might as well ask me for all
+the cloth, and all my guns, without letting him see that we can fight. I
+can kill Mionvu and his principal men myself, and you can slay all those
+howlers out there without much trouble. If Mionvu and his principal were
+dead we should not be troubled much, and we could strike south to the
+Mala-garazi, and go west to Ujiji."
+
+ "No, no, dear master, don't think of it for a moment.  If we went
+ neat the Malagarazi we should come across Lokanda-Mira."
+
+ "Well, then, we will go north."
+
+ "Up that way Uhha extends far; and beyond Uhha are the Watuta."
+
+ "Well, then, say what we shall do.  We must do something; but we
+ must not be robbed."
+
+ "Pay Mionvu what he asks, and let us go away from here.  This is
+ the last place we shall have to pay.  And in four days we shall be
+ in Ujiji."
+
+ "Did Mionvu tell you that this is the last time we would have to
+ pay?"
+
+ "He did, indeed."
+
+ "What do you say, Asmani?  Shall we fight or pay?"  Asmani's
+ face wore the usual smile, but he replied,
+
+ "I am afraid we must pay.  This is positively the last time."
+
+ "And you, Chowpereh?"
+
+ "Pay, bana; it is better to get along quietly in this country.
+ If we were strong enough they would pay us.  Ah, if we had only
+ two hundred guns, how these Wahha would run!"
+
+ "What do you say, Mabruki?"
+
+ "Ah, master, dear master; it is very hard, and these people are
+ great robbers.  I would like to chop their heads off, all; so I
+ would.  But you had better pay.  This is the last time; and what
+ are one hundred cloths to you?"
+
+ "Well, then, Bombay and Asmani, go to Mionvu, and offer him twenty.
+ If he will not take twenty, give him thirty.  If he refuses thirty,
+ give him forty; then go up to eighty, slowly.  Make plenty of talk;
+ not one doti more.  I swear to you I will shoot Mionvu if he demands
+ more than eighty.  Go, and remember to be wise."
+
+ I will cut the matter short.  At 9 P.M. sixty-four doti were
+ handed over to Mionvu, for the King of Uhha; six doti for
+ himself, and five doti for his sub; altogether seventy-five doti--
+ a bale and a quarter!  No sooner had we paid than they began to
+ fight amongst themselves over the booty, and I was in hopes that
+ the factions would proceed to battle, that I might have good excuse
+ for leaving them, and plunging south to the jungle that I believed
+ existed there, by which means, under its friendly cover, we might
+ strike west.  But no, it was only a verbose war, which portended
+ nothing more than a noisy clamor.
+
+ November 6th.--At dawn we were on the road, very silent and sad.
+ Our stock of cloth was much diminished; we had nine bales left,
+ sufficient to have taken us to the Atlantic Ocean--aided by the
+ beads, which were yet untouched--if we practised economy.  If I
+ met many more like Mionvu I had not enough to take me to Ujiji,
+ and, though we were said to be so near, Livingstone seemed to me
+ to be just as far as ever.
+
+ We crossed the Pombwe, and then struck across a slowly-undulating
+ plain rising gradually to mountains on our right, and on our left
+ sinking towards the valley of the Malagarazi, which river was
+ about twenty miles away.  Villages rose to our view everywhere.
+ Food was cheap, milk was plentiful, and the butter good.
+
+ After a four hours' march, we crossed the Kanengi River, and
+ entered the boma of Kahirigi, inhabited by several Watusi and Wahha.
+ Here, we were told, lived the King of Uhha's brother.  This
+ announcement was anything but welcome, and I began to suspect I had
+ fallen into another hornets' nest.  We had not rested two hours
+ before two Wangwana entered my tent, who were slaves of Thani bin
+ Abdullah, our dandified friend of Unyanyembe.  These men came, on
+ the part of the king's brother, to claim the HONGA!  The king's
+ brother, demanded thirty doti!  Half a bale!  Merciful Providence!
+ What shall I do?
+
+ We had been told by Mionvu that the honga of Uhha was settled--and
+ now here is another demand from the King's brother!  It is the
+ second time the lie has been told, and we have twice been deceived.
+ We shall be deceived no more.
+
+ These two men informed us there were five more chiefs, living but
+ two hours from each other, who would exact tribute, or black-mail,
+ like those we had seen.  Knowing this much, I felt a certain calm.
+ It was far better to know the worst at once.  Five more chiefs with
+ their demands would assuredly ruin us.  In view of which, what is
+ to be done?  How am I to reach Livingstone, without being beggared?
+
+ Dismissing the men, I called Bombay, and told him to assist Asmani
+ in settling the honga--"as cheaply as possible."  I then lit my
+ pipe, put on the cap of consideration, and began to think.  Within
+ half an hour, I had made a plan, which was to be attempted to be
+ put in execution that very night.
+
+ I summoned the two slaves of Thani bin Abdullah, after the honga
+ had been settled to everybody's satisfaction--though the profoundest
+ casuistries and diplomatic arguments failed to reduce it lower than
+ twenty-six doti--and began asking them about the possibility of
+ evading the tribute-taking Wahha ahead.
+
+ This rather astonished them at first, and they declared it to be
+ impossible; but, finally, after being pressed, they replied, that
+ one of their number should guide us at midnight, or a little after,
+ into the jungle which grew on the frontiers of Uhha and Uvinza.  By
+ keeping a direct west course through this jungle until we came to
+ Ukaranga we might be enabled--we were told--to travel through Uhha
+ without further trouble.  If I were willing to pay the guide
+ twelve doti, and if I were able to impose silence on my people
+ while passing through the sleeping village, the guide was positive
+ I could reach Ujiji without paying another doti.  It is needless to
+ add, that I accepted the proffered assistance at such a price with
+ joy.
+
+ But there was much to be done.  Provisions were to be purchased,
+ sufficient to last four days, for the tramp through the jungle,
+ and men were at once sent with cloth to purchase grain at any price.
+ Fortune favoured us, for before 8 P.M. we had enough for six days.
+
+ November 7th.--I did not go to sleep at all last night, but a
+ little after midnight, as the moon was beginning to show itself,
+ by gangs of four, the men stole quietly out of the village; and
+ by 3 A.M. the entire Expedition was outside the boma, and not the
+ slightest alarm had been made.  After a signal to the new guide,
+ the Expedition began to move in a southern direction along the
+ right bank of the Kanengi River.  After an hour's march in this
+ direction, we struck west, across the grassy plain, and maintained
+ it, despite the obstacles we encountered, which were sore enough to
+ naked men.  The bright moon lighted our path: dark clouds now and
+ then cast immense long shadows over the deserted and silent plains,
+ and the moonbeans were almost obscured, and at such times our
+ position seemed awful--
+
+ Till the moon.
+ Rising in clouded majesty, at length,
+ Apparent queen, unveiled her peerless light,
+ And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw.
+
+ Bravely toiled the men, without murmur, though their legs were
+ bleeding from the cruel grass.  "Ambrosial morn" at last appeared,
+ with all its beautiful and lovely features.  Heaven was born anew
+ to us, with comforting omens and cheery promise.  The men, though
+ fatigued at the unusual travel, sped forward with quicker, pace as
+ daylight broke, until, at 8 A.M., we sighted the swift Rusugi River,
+ when a halt was ordered in a clump of jungle near it, for breakfast
+ and rest.  Both banks of the river were alive with buffalo, eland,
+ and antelope, but, though the sight was very tempting, we did not
+ fire, because we dared not.  The report of a gun would have alarmed
+ the whole country.  I preferred my coffee, and the contentment which
+ my mind experienced at our success.
+
+ An hour after we had rested, some natives, carrying salt from the
+ Malagarazi, were seen coming up the right bank of the river.  When
+ abreast of our hiding-place, they detected us, and dropping their
+ salt-bags, they took to their heels at once, shouting out as they
+ ran, to alarm some villages that appeared about four miles north of
+ us.  The men were immediately ordered to take up their loads, and
+ in a few minutes we had crossed the Rusugi, and were making direct
+ for a bamboo jungle that appeared in our front.  On, on, we kept
+ steadily until, at 1 P.M., we sighted the little lake of Musunya,
+ as wearied as possible with our nine hours march.
+
+ Lake Musunya is one of the many circular basins found in this part
+ of Uhha.  There was quite a group of them.  The more correct term
+ of these lakes would be immense pools.  In the Masika season, Lake
+ Musunya must extend to three or four miles in length by two in breadth.
+ It swarms with hippopotami, and its shores abound with noble game.
+
+ We were very quiet, as may be imagined, in our bivouac; neither
+ tent nor hut was raised, nor was fire kindled, so that, in case of
+ pursuit, we could move off without delay.  I kept my Winchester
+ rifle (the gift of my friend Mr. Morris, and a rare gift it was
+ for such a crisis) with its magazine full, and two hundred
+ cartridges in a bag slung over my shoulders.  Each soldier's gun
+ was also ready and loaded, and we retired to sleep our fatigues
+ off with a feeling of perfect security.
+
+ November 8th.--Long before dawn appeared, we were on the march, and,
+ as daylight broke, we emerged from the bamboo jungle, and struck
+ across the naked plain of Uhha, once more passing several large
+ pools by the way--far-embracing prospects of undulating country,
+ with here and there a characteristic clump of trees relieving the
+ general nudity of the whole.  Hour after hour we toiled on,
+ across the rolling land waves, the sun shining with all its wonted
+ African fervor, but with its heat slightly tempered by the
+ welcome breezes, which came laden with the fragrance of young
+ grass, and perfume of strange flowers of various hues, that flecked
+ the otherwise pale-green sheet which extended so far around us.
+
+ We arrived at the Rugufu River--not the Ukawendi Rugufu, but the
+ northern stream of that name, a tributary of the Malagarazi.  It
+ was a broad shallow stream, and sluggish, with an almost imperceptible
+ flow south-west.  While we halted in the deep shade afforded by a
+ dense clump of jungle, close to the right bank, resting awhile before
+ continuing our journey.  I distinctly heard a sound as of distant
+ thunder in the west.  Upon asking if it were thunder, I was told it
+ was Kabogo.
+
+ "Kabogo? what is that?"
+
+ "It is a great mountain on the other side of the Tanganika, full
+ of deep holes, into which the water rolls; and when there is wind
+ on the Tanganika, there is a sound like mvuha (thunder).  Many
+ boats have been lost there, and it is a custom with Arabs and
+ natives to throw cloth--Merikani and Kaniki--and especially white
+ (Merikani) beads, to appease the mulungu (god) of the lake.
+ Those who throw beads generally get past without trouble,
+ but those who do not throw beads into the lake get lost, and are
+ drowned.  Oh, it is a dreadful place!"  This story was told me by
+ the ever-smiling guide Asmani, and was corroborated by other
+ former mariners of the lake whom I had with me.
+
+ At the least, this place where we halted for dinner, on the banks
+ of the Rugufu River, is eighteen and a half hours, or forty-six
+ miles, from Ujiji; and, as Kabogo is said to be near Uguhha, it
+ must be over sixty miles from Ujiji; therefore the sound of the
+ thundering surf, which is said to roll into the caves of Kabogo,
+ was heard by us at a distance of over one hundred miles away from
+ them.
+
+ Continuing our journey for three hours longer, through thin
+ forests, over extensive beds of primitive rock, among fields of
+ large boulders thickly strewn about, passing by numerous herds
+ of buffalo, giraffe, and zebra, over a quaking quagmire which
+ resembled peat, we arrived at the small stream of Sunuzzi, to a
+ camping place only a mile removed from a large settlement of Wahha.
+ But we were buried in the depths of a great forest--no road was in
+ the vicinity, no noise was made, deep silence was preserved; nor
+ were fires lit.  We might therefore rest tranquilly secure, certain
+ that we should not be disturbed.  To-morrow morning the kirangozi
+ has promised we shall be out of Uhha, and if we travel on to
+ Niamtaga, in Ukaranga, the same day, the next day would see us
+ in Ujiji.
+
+ Patience, my soul!  A few hours more, then the end of all this
+ will be known!  I shall be face to face with that "white man with
+ the white hairs on his face, whoever he is!"
+
+ November 9th.--Two hours before dawn we left our camp on the Sunuzzi
+ River, and struck through the forest in a north-by-west direction,
+ having muzzled our goats previously, lest, by their bleating, they
+ might betray us.  This was a mistake which might have ended
+ tragically, for just as the eastern sky began to assume a pale
+ greyish tint, we emerged from the jungle on the high road.  The
+ guide thought we had passed Uhha, and set up a shout which was
+ echoed by every member of the caravan, and marched onward with
+ new vigor and increased energy, when plump we came to the outskirts
+ of a village, the inhabitants of which were beginning to stir.
+ Silence was called for at once, and the Expedition halted
+ immediately.  I walked forward to the front to advise with the guide.
+ He did not know what to do.  There was no time to consider, so I
+ ordered the goats to be slaughtered and left on the road, and the
+ guide to push on boldly through the village.  The chickens also had
+ their throats cut; after which the Expedition resumed the march
+ quickly and silently, led by the guide, who had orders to plunge
+ into the jungle south of the road.  I stayed until the last man
+ had disappeared; then, after preparing my Winchester, brought up
+ the rear, followed by my gunbearers with their stock of ammunition.
+ As we were about disappearing beyond the last hut, a man darted out
+ of his hut, and uttered an exclamation of alarm, and loud voices
+ were heard as if in dispute.  But in a short time we were in the
+ depths of the jungle, hurrying away from the road in a southern
+ direction, and edging slightly westward.  Once I thought we were
+ pursued, and I halted behind a tree to check our foes if they
+ persisted in following us; but a few minutes proved to me that we
+ were not pursued, After half-an-hour's march we again turned our
+ faces westward.  It was broad daylight now, and our eyes were
+ delighted with most picturesque and sequestered little valleys,
+ where wild fruit-trees grew, and rare flowers blossomed, and
+ tiny brooks tumbled over polished pebbles--where all was bright
+ and beautiful--until, finally, wading through one pretty pure
+ streamlet, whose soft murmurs we took for a gentle welcome, we
+ passed the boundary of wicked Uhha, and had entered Ukaranga!--
+ an event that was hailed with extravagant shouts of joy.
+
+ Presently we found the smooth road, and we trod gaily with
+ elastic steps, with limbs quickened for the march which we all
+ knew to be drawing near its end.  What cared we now for the
+ difficulties we had encountered--for the rough and cruel forests,
+ for the thorny thickets and hurtful grass, for the jangle of all
+ savagedom, of which we had been the joyless audience!  To-morrow!
+ Ay, the great day draws nigh, and we may well laugh and sing while
+ in this triumphant mood.  We have been sorely tried; we have been
+ angry with each other when vexed by troubles, but we forget all
+ these now, and there is no face but is radiant with the happiness
+ we have all deserved.
+
+ We made a short halt at noon, for rest and refreshment.  I was
+ shown the hills from which the Tanganika could be seen, which
+ bounded the valley of the Liuche on the east.  I could not contain
+ myself at the sight of them.  Even with this short halt I was
+ restless and unsatisfied.  We resumed the march again.  I spurred
+ my men forward with the promise that to-morrow should see their reward.
+
+ We were in sight of the villages of the Wakaranga; the people
+ caught sight of us, and manifested considerable excitement.  I sent
+ men ahead to reassure them, and they came forward to greet us.  This
+ was so new and welcome to us, so different from the turbulent Wavinza
+ and the black-mailers of Uhha, that we were melted.  But we had
+ no time to loiter by the way to indulge our joy.  I was impelled onward
+ by my almost uncontrollable feelings.  I wished to resolve my doubts
+ and fears.  Was HE still there?  Had HE heard of my coming?  Would HE
+ fly?
+
+ How beautiful Ukaranga appears!  The green hills are crowned by
+ clusters of straw-thatched cones.  The hills rise and fall; here
+ denuded and cultivated, there in pasturage, here timbered, yonder
+ swarming with huts.  The country has somewhat the aspect of Maryland.
+
+ We cross the Mkuti, a glorious little river!  We ascend the opposite
+ bank, and stride through the forest like men who have done a deed
+ of which they may be proud.  We have already travelled nine hours,
+ and the sun is sinking rapidly towards the west; yet, apparently,
+ we are not fatigued.
+
+ We reach the outskirts of Niamtaga, and we hear drums beat.  The
+ people are flying into the woods; they desert their villages, for
+ they take us to be Ruga-Ruga--the forest thieves of Mirambo, who,
+ after conquering the Arabs of Unyanyembe, are coming to fight the
+ Arabs of Ujiji.  Even the King flies from his village, and every
+ man, woman, and child, terror-stricken, follows him.  We enter
+ into it and quietly take possession.  Finally, the word is bruited
+ about that we are Wangwana, from Unyanyembe.
+
+ "Well, then, is Mirambo dead?" they ask.
+
+ "No," we answer.
+
+ "Well, how did you come to Ukaranga?"
+
+ "By way of Ukonongo, Ukawendi, and Uhha."
+
+ "Oh--hi-le!" Then they laugh heartily at their fright, and begin
+ to make excuses.  The King is introduced to me, and he says he had
+ only gone to the woods in order to attack us again--he meant to have
+ come back and killed us all, if we had been Ruga-Ruga.  But then we
+ know the poor King was terribly frightened, and would never have
+ dared to return, had we been RugaRuga--not he.  We are not, however,
+ in a mood to quarrel with him about an idiomatic phrase peculiar
+ to him, but rather take him by the hand and shake it well, and say
+ we are so very glad to see him.  And he shares in our pleasure,
+ and immediately three of the fattest sheep, pots of beer, flour,
+ and honey are brought to us as a gift, and I make him happier still
+ with two of the finest cloths I have in my bales; and thus a
+ friendly pact is entered into between us.
+
+ While I write my Diary of this day's proceedings, I tell my
+ servant to lay out my new flannel suit, to oil my boots, to
+ chalk my helmet, and fold a new puggaree around it, that I may
+ make as presentable an appearance as possible before the white
+ man with the grey beard, and before the Arabs of Ujiji; for the
+ clothes I have worn through jungle and forest are in tatters.
+ Good-night; only let one day come again, and we shall see what
+ we shall see.
+
+ November 10th. Friday.--The 236th day from Bagamoyo on the Sea,
+ and the 51st day from Unyanyembe.  General direction to Ujiji,
+ west-by-south.  Time of march, six hours.
+
+ It is a happy, glorious morning.  The air is fresh and cool.
+ The sky lovingly smiles on the earth and her children.  The deep
+ woods are crowned in bright vernal leafage; the water of the Mkuti,
+ rushing under the emerald shade afforded by the bearded banks,
+ seems to challenge us for the race to Ujiji, with its continuous
+ brawl.
+
+ We are all outside the village cane fence, every man of us looking
+ as spruce, as neat, and happy as when we embarked on the dhows at
+ Zanzibar, which seems to us to have been ages ago--we have witnessed
+ and experienced so much.
+
+ "Forward!"
+
+ "Ay Wallah, ay Wallah, bana yango!" and the lighthearted braves
+ stride away at a rate which must soon bring us within view of
+ Ujiji.  We ascend a hill overgrown with bamboo, descend into a
+ ravine through which dashes an impetuous little torrent, ascend
+ another short hill, then, along a smooth footpath running across
+ the slope of a long ridge, we push on as only eager, lighthearted
+ men can do.
+
+ In two hours I am warned to prepare for a view of the Tanganika,
+ for, from the top of a steep mountain the kirangozi says I can see
+ it.  I almost vent the feeling of my heart in cries.  But wait, we
+ must behold it first.  And we press forward and up the hill
+ breathlessly, lest the grand scene hasten away.  We are at last on
+ the summit.  Ah! not yet can it be seen.  A little further on--just
+ yonder, oh! there it is--a silvery gleam.  I merely catch sight of
+ it between the trees, and--but here it is at last!  True--THE TANGANIKA!
+ and there are the blue-black mountains of Ugoma and Ukaramba.  An
+ immense broad sheet, a burnished bed of silver--lucid canopy of
+ blue above--lofty mountains are its valances, palm forests form its
+ fringes!  The Tanganika!--Hurrah! and the men respond to the
+ exultant cry of the Anglo-Saxon with the lungs of Stentors, and the
+ great forests and the hills seem to share in our triumph.
+
+ "Was this the place where Burton and Speke stood, Bombay, when they
+ saw the lake first?"
+
+ "I don't remember, master; it was somewhere about here, I think."
+
+ "Poor fellows!  The one was half-paralyzed, the other half-blind,"
+ said Sir Roderick Murchison, when he described Burton and Spoke's
+ arrival in view of the Tanganika.
+
+ And I?  Well, I am so happy that, were I quite paralyzed and
+ blinded, I think that at this supreme moment I could take up my
+ bed and walk, and all blindness would cease at once.  Fortunately,
+ however, I am quite well; I have not suffered a day's sickness
+ since the day I left Unyanyembe.  How much would Shaw be willing
+ to give to be in my place now?  Who is happiest--he revelling in
+ the luxuries of Unyanyembe, or I, standing on the summit of this
+ mountain, looking down with glad eyes and proud heart on the
+ Tanganika?
+
+ We are descending the western slope of the mountain, with the
+ valley of the Liuche before us.  Something like an hour before
+ noon we have gained the thick matete brake, which grows on both
+ banks of the river; we wade through the clear stream, arrive on
+ the other side, emerge out of the brake, and the gardens of the
+ Wajiji are around us--a perfect marvel of vegetable wealth.
+ Details escape my hasty and partial observation.  I am almost
+ overpowered with my own emotions.  I notice the graceful palms,
+ neat plots, green with vegetable plants, and small villages
+ surrounded with frail fences of the matete-cane.
+
+ We push on rapidly, lest the news of our coming might reach the
+ people of Ujiji before we come in sight, and are ready for them.
+ We halt at a little brook, then ascend the long slope of a naked
+ ridge, the very last of the myriads we have crossed.  This alone
+ prevents us from seeing the lake in all its vastness.  We arrive
+ at the summit, travel across and arrive at its western rim, and--
+ pause, reader--the port of Ujiji is below us, embowered in the
+ palms, only five hundred yards from us!
+
+ At this grand moment we do not think of the hundreds of miles we
+ have marched, or of the hundreds of hills that we have ascended
+ and descended, or of the many forests we have traversed, or of the
+ jungles and thickets that annoyed us, or of the fervid salt plains
+ that blistered our feet, or of the hot suns that scorched us, nor
+ of the dangers and difficulties, now happily surmounted!
+
+ At last the sublime hour has arrived;--our dreams, our hopes, and
+ anticipations are now about to be realised!  Our hearts and our
+ feelings are with our eyes, as we peer into the palms and try to
+ make out in which hut or house lives the "white man with the grey
+ beard" we heard about when we were at the Malagarazi.
+
+ "Unfurl the flags, and load your guns!"
+
+ "We will, master, we will, master!" respond the men eagerly.
+
+ "One, two, three,--fire!"
+
+ A volley from nearly fifty guns roars like a salute from a
+ battery of artillery: we shall note its effect presently on
+ the peaceful-looking village below.
+
+ "Now, kirangozi, hold the white man's flag up high, and let the
+ Zanzibar flag bring up the rear.  And you men keep close together,
+ and keep firing until we halt in the market-place, or before the
+ white man's house.  You have said to me often that you could smell
+ the fish of the Tanganika--I can smell the fish of the Tanganika
+ now.  There are fish, and beer, and a long rest waiting for you.
+ MARCH!"
+
+ Before we had gone a hundred yards our repeated volleys had the
+ effect desired.  We had awakened Ujiji to the knowledge that a
+ caravan was coming, and the people were witnessed rushing up in
+ hundreds to meet us.  The mere sight of the flags informed every
+ one immediately that we were a caravan, but the American flag
+ borne aloft by gigantic Asmani, whose face was one vast smile on
+ this day, rather staggered them at first.  However, many of the
+ people who now approached us, remembered the flag.  They had seen
+ it float above the American Consulate, and from the mast-head of
+ many a ship in the harbor of Zanzibar, and they were soon heard
+ welcoming the beautiful flag with cries of "Bindera Kisungu!"--a
+ white man's flag!  "Bindera Merikani!"--the American flag!
+
+ Then we were surrounded by them: by Wajiji, Wanyamwezi, Wangwana,
+ Warundi, Waguhha, Wamanyuema, and Arabs, and were almost
+ deafened with the shouts of "Yambo, yambo, bana!  Yambo, bana!
+ Yambo, bana!" To all and each of my men the welcome was given.
+
+ We were now about three hundred yards from the village of Ujiji,
+ and the crowds are dense about me.  Suddenly I hear a voice on
+ my right say,
+
+ "Good morning, sir!"
+
+ Startled at hearing this greeting in the midst of such a crowd of
+ black people, I turn sharply around in search of the man, and see
+ him at my side, with the blackest of faces, but animated and
+ joyous--a man dressed in a long white shirt, with a turban of
+ American sheeting around his woolly head, and I ask:
+
+ "Who the mischief are you?"
+
+ "I am Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone," said be, smiling,
+ and showing a gleaming row of teeth.
+
+ "What!  Is Dr. Livingstone here?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "In this village?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "Are you sure?"
+
+ "Sure, sure, sir.  Why, I leave him just now."
+
+ "Good morning, sir," said another voice.
+
+ "Hallo," said I, "is this another one?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "Well, what is your name?"
+
+ "My name is Chumah, sir."
+
+ "What! are you Chumah, the friend of Wekotani?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "And is the-Doctor well?"
+
+ "Not very well, sir."
+
+ "Where has he been so long?"
+
+ "In Manyuema."
+
+ "Now, you Susi, run, and tell the Doctor I am coming."
+
+ "Yes, sir," and off he darted like a madman.
+
+ But by this time we were within two hundred yards of the village,
+ and the multitude was getting denser, and almost preventing our
+ march.  Flags and streamers were out; Arabs and Wangwana were
+ pushing their way through the natives in order to greet us, for
+ according to their account, we belonged to them.  But the great
+ wonder of all was, "How did you come from Unyanyembe?"
+
+ Soon Susi came running back, and asked me my name; he had told
+ the Doctor I was coming, but the Doctor was too surprised to believe
+ him, and when the Doctor asked him my name, Susi was rather staggered.
+
+ But, during Susi's absence, the news had been conveyed to the
+ Doctor that it was surely a white man that was coming, whose guns
+ were firing, and whose flag could be seen; and the great Arab
+ magnates of Ujiji--Mohammed bin Sali, Sayd bin Majid, Abid bin
+ Suliman, Mohammed bin Gharib, and others--had gathered together
+ before the Doctor's house, and the Doctor had come out from his
+ veranda to discuss the matter and await my arrival.
+
+ In the meantime, the head of the Expedition had halted, and the
+ kirangozi was out of the ranks, holding his flag aloft, and Selim
+ said to me, "I see the Doctor, sir.  Oh, what an old man!  He has
+ got a white beard."  And I--what would I not have given for a bit
+ of friendly wilderness, where, unseen, I might vent my joy in some
+ mad freak, such as idiotically biting my hand; turning a somersault,
+ or slashing at trees, in order to allay those exciting feelings
+ that were well-nigh uncontrollable.  My heart beats fast, but I must
+ not let my face betray my emotions, lest it shall detract from the
+ dignity of a white man appearing under such extraordinary circumstances.
+
+ So I did that which I thought was most dignified.  I pushed back
+ the crowds, and, passing from the rear, walked down a living avenue
+ of people, until I came in front of the semicircle of Arabs, before
+ which stood the "white man with the grey beard."
+
+ As I advanced slowly towards him I noticed he was pale, that he
+ looked wearied and wan, that he had grey whiskers and moustache,
+ that he wore a bluish cloth cap with a faded gold band on a red
+ ground round it, and that he had on a red-sleeved waistcoat, and a
+ pair of grey tweed trousers.
+
+ I would have run to him, only I was a coward in the presence of
+ such a mob--would have embraced him, but that I did not know how
+ he would receive me; so I did what moral cowardice and false pride
+ suggested was the best thing--walked deliberately to him, took off
+ my hat, and said:
+
+ "DR. LIVINGSTONE, I PRESUME?"
+
+ "Yes," said he, with a kind, cordial smile, lifting his cap slightly.
+
+ I replaced my hat on my head, and he replaced his cap, and we
+ both grasped hands.  I then said aloud:
+
+ "I thank God, Doctor, I have been permitted to see you."
+
+ He answered, "I feel thankful that I am here to welcome you."
+
+ I turned to the Arabs, took off my hat to them in response to the
+ saluting chorus of "Yambos" I received, and the Doctor introduced
+ them to me by name.  Then, oblivious of the crowds, oblivious of
+ the men who shared with me my dangers, we--Livingstone and I--
+ turned our faces towards his house.  He pointed to the veranda,
+ or rather, mud platform, under the broad overhanging eaves; he
+ pointed to his own particular seat, which I saw his age and
+ experience in Africa had suggested, namely, a straw mat, with a
+ goatskin over it, and another skin nailed against the wall to
+ protect his back from contact with the cold mud.  I protested
+ against taking this seat, which so much more befitted him than I,
+ but the Doctor would not yield: I must take it.
+
+ We were seated--the Doctor and I--with our backs to the wall.
+ The Arabs took seats on our left.  More than a thousand natives
+ were in our front, filling the whole square densely, indulging
+ their curiosity, and discussing the fact of two white men meeting
+ at Ujiji--one just come from Manyuema, in the west, the other from
+ Unyanyembe, in the east.
+
+ Conversation began.  What about?  I declare I have forgotten.
+ Oh! we mutually asked questions of one another, such as
+ "How did you come here?" and "Where have you been all this long
+ time?--the world has believed you to be dead." Yes, that was the
+ way it began: but whatever the Doctor informed me, and that which
+ I communicated to him, I cannot correctly report, for I found myself
+ gazing at him, conning the wonderful figure and face of the man at
+ whose side I now sat in Central Africa.  Every hair of his head
+ and beard, every wrinkle of his face, the wanness of his features,
+ and the slightly wearied look he wore, were all imparting
+ intelligence to me--the knowledge I craved for so much ever since
+ I heard the words, "Take what you want, but find Livingstone."
+ What I saw was deeply interesting intelligence to me, and unvarnished
+ truth.  I was listening and reading at the same time.  What did these
+ dumb witnesses relate to me?
+
+ Oh, reader, had you been at my side on this day in Ujiji, how
+ eloquently could be told the nature of this man's work!  Had you
+ been there but to see and hear!  His lips gave me the details; lips
+ that never lie.  I cannot repeat what he said; I was too much
+ engrossed to take my note-book out, and begin to stenograph his story.
+ He had so much to say that he began at the end, seemingly oblivious
+ of the fact that five or six years had to be accounted for.  But his
+ account was oozing out; it was growing fast into grand proportions--
+ into a most marvellous history of deeds.
+
+ The Arabs rose up, with a delicacy I approved, as if they intuitively
+ knew that we ought to be left to ourselves.  I sent Bombay with them
+ to give them the news they also wanted so much to know about the
+ affairs at Unyanyembe.  Sayd bin Majid was the father of the gallant
+ young man whom I saw at Masangi, and who fought with me at Zimbizo,
+ and who soon afterwards was killed by Mirambo's Ruga-Ruga in the
+ forest of Wilyankuru; and, knowing that I had been there, he
+ earnestly desired to hear the tale of the fight; but they had all
+ friends at Unyanyembe, and it was but natural that they should be
+ anxious to hear of what concerned them.
+
+ After giving orders to Bombay and Asmani for the provisioning of
+ the men of the Expedition, I called "Kaif-Halek," or "How-do-ye-do,"
+ and introduced him to Dr. Livingstone as one of the soldiers in
+ charge of certain goods left at Unyanyembe, whom I had compelled
+ to accompany me to Ujiji, that he might deliver in person to his
+ master the letter-bag with which he had been entrusted.  This was
+ that famous letter-bag marked "Nov. 1st, 1870," which was now
+ delivered into the Doctor's hands 365 days after it left Zanzibar!
+ How long, I wonder, had it remained at Unyanyembe had I not been
+ despatched into Central Africa in search of the great traveller?
+
+ The Doctor kept the letter-bag on his knee, then, presently, opened
+ it, looked at the letters contained there, and read one or two of
+ his children's letters, his face in the meanwhile lighting up.
+
+ He asked me to tell him the news.  "No, Doctor," said I, "read your
+ letters first, which I am sure you must be impatient to read."
+
+ "Ah," said he, "I have waited years for letters, and I have been
+ taught patience.  I can surely afford to wait a few hours longer.
+ No, tell me the general news: how is the world getting along?
+
+ "You probably know much already.  Do you know that the Suez Canal
+ is a fact--is opened, and a regular trade carried on between Europe
+ and India through it?"
+
+ "I did not hear about the opening of it.  Well, that is grand news!
+ What else?"
+
+ Shortly I found myself enacting the part of an annual periodical
+ to him.  There was no need of exaggeration of any penny-a-line
+ news, or of any sensationalism.  The world had witnessed and
+ experienced much the last few years.  The Pacific Railroad had been
+ completed (1869); Grant had been elected President of the United States;
+ Egypt had been flooded with savans: the Cretan rebellion had
+ terminated (1866-1868); a Spanish revolution had driven Isabella
+ from the throne of Spain, and a Regent had been appointed: General
+ Prim was assassinated; a Castelar had electrified Europe with his
+ advanced ideas upon the liberty of worship; Prussia had humbled Denmark,
+ and annexed Schleswig-Holstein <1864>, and her armies were now around
+ Paris; the "Man of Destiny" was a prisoner at Wilhelmshohe;
+ the Queen of Fashion and the Empress of the French was a fugitive;
+ and the child born in the purple had lost for ever the Imperial
+ crown intended for his head; the Napoleon dynasty was extinguished
+ by the Prussians, Bismarck and Von Moltke; and France, the proud
+ empire, was humbled to the dust.
+
+ What could a man have exaggerated of these facts?  What a budget
+ of news it was to one who had emerged from the depths of the
+ primeval forests of Manyuema!  The reflection of the dazzling
+ light of civilisation was cast on him while Livingstone was thus
+ listening in wonder to one of the most exciting pages of history
+ ever repeated.  How the puny deeds of barbarism paled before
+ these!  Who could tell under what new phases of uneasy life Europe
+ was labouring even then, while we, two of her lonely children,
+ rehearsed the tale of her late woes and glories?  More worthily,
+ perhaps, had the tongue of a lyric Demodocus recounted them; but,
+ in the absence of the poet, the newspaper correspondent performed
+ his part as well and truthfully as he could.
+
+ Not long after the Arabs had departed, a dishful of hot hashed-meat
+ cakes was sent to us by Sayd bin Majid, and a curried chicken was
+ received from Mohammed bin Sali, and Moeni Kheri sent a dishful of
+ stewed goat-meat and rice; and thus presents of food came in
+ succession, and as fast as they were brought we set to.  I had a
+ healthy, stubborn digestion--the exercise I had taken had put it in
+ prime order; but Livingstone--he had been complaining that he had
+ no appetite, that his stomach refused everything but a cup of tea
+ now and then--he ate also--ate like a vigorous, hungry man; and,
+ as he vied with me in demolishing the pancakes, he kept repeating,
+ "You have brought me new life.  You have brought me new life."
+
+ "Oh, by George!" I said, "I have forgotten something.  Hasten,
+ Selim, and bring that bottle; you know which and bring me the silver
+ goblets.  I brought this bottle on purpose for this event, which
+ I hoped would come to pass, though often it seemed useless to expect
+ it."
+
+ Selim knew where the bottle was, and he soon returned with it--a
+ bottle of Sillery champagne; and, handing the Doctor a silver
+ goblet brimful of the exhilarating wine, and pouring a small
+ quantity into my own, I said,
+
+ "Dr. Livingstone, to your very good health, sir."
+
+ "And to yours!" he responded, smilingly.
+
+ And the champagne I had treasured for this happy meeting was drunk
+ with hearty good wishes to each other.
+
+ But we kept on talking and talking, and prepared food was being
+ brought to us all that afternoon; and we kept on eating each time
+ it was brought, until I had eaten even to repletion, and the Doctor
+ was obliged to confess that he had eaten enough.  Still, Halimah,
+ the female cook of the Doctor's establishment, was in a state of
+ the greatest excitement.  She had been protruding her head out of
+ the cookhouse to make sure that there were really two white men
+ sitting down in the veranda, when there used to be only one, who
+ would not, because he could not, eat anything; and she had been
+ considerably exercised in her mind about this fact.  She was
+ afraid the Doctor did not properly appreciate her culinary
+ abilities; but now she was amazed at the extraordinary quantity
+ of food eaten, and she was in a state of delightful excitement.
+ We could hear her tongue rolling off a tremendous volume of
+ clatter to the wondering crowds who halted before the kitchen
+ to hear the current of news with which she edified them.  Poor,
+ faithful soul!  While we listened to the noise of her furious
+ gossip, the Doctor related her faithful services, and the
+ terrible anxiety she evinced when the guns first announced
+ the  arrival of another white man in Ujiji; how she had been
+ flying about in a state cf the utmost excitement, from the kitchen
+ into his presence, and out again into the square, asking all sorts
+ of questions; how she was in despair at the scantiness of the
+ general larder and treasury of the strange household; how she
+ was anxious to make up for their poverty by a grand appearance--
+ to make up a sort of Barmecide feast to welcome the white man.
+ "Why," said she, "is he not one of us?  Does he not bring plenty
+ of cloth and beads?  Talk about the Arabs!  Who are they that
+ they should be compared to white men?  Arabs, indeed!"
+
+ The Doctor and I conversed upon many things, especially upon his
+ own immediate troubles, and his disappointments, upon his arrival
+ in Ujiji, when told that all his goods had been sold, and he was
+ reduced to poverty.  He had but twenty cloths or so left of the
+ stock he had deposited with the man called Sherif, the half-caste
+ drunken tailor, who was sent by the Consul in charge of the goods.
+ Besides which he had been suffering from an attack of dysentery,
+ and his condition was most deplorable.  He was but little improved
+ on this day, though he had eaten well, and already began to feel
+ stronger and better.
+
+ This day, like all others, though big with happiness to me, at last
+ was fading away.  While sitting with our faces looking to the east,
+ as Livingstone had been sitting for days preceding my arrival, we
+ noted the dark shadows which crept up above the grove of palms
+ beyond the village, and above the rampart of mountains which we had
+ crossed that day, now looming through the fast approaching
+ darkness; and we listened, with our hearts full of gratitude to
+ the Great Giver of Good and Dispenser of all Happiness, to the
+ sonorous thunder of the surf of the Tanganika, and to the chorus
+ which the night insects sang.  Hours passed, and we were still
+ sitting there with our minds busy upon the day's remarkable events,
+ when I remembered that the traveller had not yet read his letters.
+
+ "Doctor," I said, "you had better read your letters.  I will not
+ keep you up any longer."
+
+ "Yes," he answered, "it is getting late; and I will go and read
+ my friends' letters.  Good-night, and God bless you."
+
+ "Good-night, my dear Doctor; and let me hope that your news will
+ be such as you desire."
+
+ I have now related, by means of my Diary, "How I found Livingstone,"
+ as recorded on the evening of that great day.  I have been averse
+ to reduce it by process of excision and suppression, into a mere
+ cold narrative, because, by so doing, I would be unable to record
+ what feelings swayed each member of the Expedition as well as myself
+ during the days preceding the discovery of the lost traveller, and
+ more especially the day it was the good fortune of both Livingstone
+ and myself to clasp each other's hands in the strong friendship
+ which was born in that hour we thus strangely met.  The aged
+ traveller, though cruelly belied, contrary to all previous expectation,
+ received me as a friend; and the cordial warmth with which he accepted
+ my greeting; the courtesy with which he tendered to me a shelter
+ in his own house; the simple candour of his conversation; graced
+ by unusual modesty of manner, and meekness of spirit, wrought in me
+ such a violent reaction in his favor, that when the parting
+ "good-night" was uttered, I felt a momentary vague fear lest the
+ fulness of joy which I experienced that evening would be diminished
+ by some envious fate, before the morrow's sun should rise above Ujiji.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII. -- INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE AT UJIJI--LIVINGSTONE'S OWN
+STORY OF HIS JOURNEYS, HIS TROUBLES, AND DISAPPOINTMENTS.
+
+ "If there is love between us, inconceivably delicious, and
+ profitable will our intercourse be; if not, your time is lost,
+ and you will only annoy me.  I shall seem to you stupid, and the
+ reputation I have false.  All my good is magnetic, and I educate
+ not by lessons, but by going about my business."--Emerson's
+ 'Representative Men'.
+
+
+ I woke up early next morning with a sudden start.  The room was
+ strange!  It was a house, and not my tent!  Ah, yes! I recollected
+ I had discovered Livingstone, and I was in his house.  I listened,
+ that the knowledge dawning on me might be confirmed by the sound
+ of his voice.  I heard nothing but the sullen roar of the surf.
+
+ I lay quietly in bed.  Bed!  Yes, it was a primitive four-poster,
+ with the leaves of the palm-tree spread upon it instead of down,
+ and horsehair and my bearskin spread over this serving me in place
+ of linen.  I began to put myself under rigid mental cross-examination,
+and to an analyzation of my position.
+
+"What was I sent for?"
+
+"To find Livingstone."
+
+"Have you found him?"
+
+"Yes, of course; am I not in his house? Whose compass is that hanging
+on a peg there? Whose clothes, whose boots, are those? Who reads those
+newspapers, those 'Saturday Reviews' and numbers of 'Punch' lying on the
+floor?"
+
+"Well, what are you going to do now?"
+
+"I shall tell him this morning who sent me, and what brought me here.
+I will then ask him to write a letter to Mr. Bennett, and to give
+what news he can spare. I did not come here to rob him of his news.
+Sufficient for me is it that I have found him. It is a complete success
+so far. But it will be a greater one if he gives me letters for Mr.
+Bennett, and an acknowledgment that he has seen me."
+
+"Do you think he will do so?"
+
+"Why not? I have come here to do him a service. He has no goods. I have.
+He has no men with him. I have. If I do a friendly part by him, will he
+not do a friendly part by me? What says the poet?--
+
+              Nor hope to find
+     A friend, but who has found a friend in thee.
+     All like the purchase; few the price will pay
+     And this makes friends such wonders here below.
+
+I have paid the purchase, by coming so far to do him a service. But I
+think, from what I have seen of him last night, that he is not such
+a niggard and misanthrope as I was led to believe. He exhibited
+considerable emotion, despite the monosyllabic greeting, when he shook
+my hand. If he were a man to feel annoyance at any person coming after
+him, he would not have received me as he did, nor would he ask me to
+live with him, but he would have surlily refused to see me, and told
+me to mind my own business. Neither does he mind my nationality; for
+'here,' said he, 'Americans and Englishmen are the same people. We speak
+the same language and have the same ideas.' Just so, Doctor; I agree
+with you. Here at least, Americans and Englishmen shall be brothers,
+and, whatever I can do for you, you may command me freely."
+
+I dressed myself quietly, intending to take a stroll along the Tanganika
+before the Doctor should rise; opened the door, which creaked horribly
+on its hinges, and walked out to the veranda.
+
+"Halloa, Doctor!--you up already? I hope you have slept well?"
+
+"Good-morning, Mr. Stanley! I am glad to see you. I hope you rested
+well. I sat up late reading my letters. You have brought me good and bad
+news. But sit down." He made a place for me by his side. "Yes, many of
+my friends are dead. My eldest son has met with a sad accident--that is,
+my boy Tom; my second son, Oswell, is at college studying medicine, and
+is doing well I am told. Agnes, my eldest daughter, has been enjoying
+herself in a yacht, with 'Sir Paraffine' Young and his family. Sir
+Roderick, also, is well, and expresses a hope that he will soon see me.
+You have brought me quite a budget."
+
+The man was not an apparition, then, and yesterday's scenes were not the
+result of a dream! and I gazed on him intently, for thus I was assured
+he had not run away, which was the great fear that constantly haunted me
+as I was journeying to Ujiji.
+
+"Now, Doctor," said I, "you are, probably, wondering why I came here?"
+
+"It is true," said he; "I have been wondering. I thought you, at first,
+an emissary of the French Government, in the place of Lieutenant Le
+Saint, who died a few miles above Gondokoro. I heard you had boats,
+plenty of men, and stores, and I really believed you were some French
+officer, until I saw the American flag; and, to tell you the truth, I
+was rather glad it was so, because I could not have talked to him in
+French; and if he did not know English, we had been a pretty pair of
+white men in Ujiji! I did not like to ask you yesterday, because I
+thought it was none of my business."
+
+"Well," said I, laughing, "for your sake I am glad that I am an American,
+and not a Frenchman, and that we can understand each other perfectly
+without an interpreter. I see that the Arabs are wondering that you, an
+Englishman, and I, an American, understand each other. We must take care
+not to tell them that the English and Americans have fought, and that
+there are 'Alabama' claims left unsettled, and that we have such people
+as Fenians in America, who hate you. But, seriously, Doctor--now don't
+be frightened when I tell you that I have come after--YOU!"
+
+"After me?"
+
+"Yes."
+
+"How?"
+
+"Well. You have heard of the 'New York Herald?'"
+
+"Oh--who has not heard of that newspaper?"
+
+"Without his father's knowledge or consent, Mr. James Gordon Bennett,
+son of Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the 'Herald,' has
+commissioned me to find you--to get whatever news of your discoveries
+you like to give--and to assist you, if I can, with means."
+
+"Young Mr. Bennett told you to come after me, to find me out, and help
+me! It is no wonder, then, you praised Mr. Bennett so much last night."
+
+"I know him--I am proud to say--to be just what I say he is. He is an
+ardent, generous, and true man."
+
+"Well, indeed! I am very much obliged to him; and it makes me feel proud
+to think that you Americans think so much of me. You have just come in
+the proper time; for I was beginning to think that I should have to beg
+from the Arabs. Even they are in want of cloth, and there are but few
+beads in Ujiji. That fellow Sherif has robbed me of all. I wish I could
+embody my thanks to Mr. Bennett in suitable words; but if I fail to do
+so, do not, I beg of you, believe me the less grateful."
+
+"And now, Doctor, having disposed of this little affair, Ferajji shall
+bring breakfast; if you have no objection."
+
+"You have given me an appetite," he said.
+
+"Halimah is my cook, but she never can tell the difference between tea
+and coffee."
+
+Ferajji, the cook, was ready as usual with excellent tea, and a dish of
+smoking cakes; "dampers," as the Doctor called them. I never did care
+much for this kind of a cake fried in a pan, but they were necessary
+to the Doctor, who had nearly lost all his teeth from the hard fare of
+Lunda. He had been compelled to subsist on green ears of Indian corn;
+there was no meat in that district; and the effort to gnaw at the
+corn ears had loosened all his teeth. I preferred the corn scones of
+Virginia, which, to my mind, were the nearest approach to palatable
+bread obtainable in Central Africa.
+
+The Doctor said he had thought me a most luxurious and rich man, when he
+saw my great bath-tub carried on the shoulders of one of my men; but he
+thought me still more luxurious this morning, when my knives and forks,
+and plates, and cups, saucers, silver spoons, and silver teapot were
+brought forth shining and bright, spread on a rich Persian carpet, and
+observed that I was well attended to by my yellow and ebon Mercuries.
+
+This was the beginning of our life at Ujiji. I knew him not as a friend
+before my arrival. He was only an object to me--a great item for a daily
+newspaper, as much as other subjects in which the voracious news-loving
+public delight in. I had gone over battlefields, witnessed revolutions,
+civil wars, rebellions, emeutes and massacres; stood close to the
+condemned murderer to record his last struggles and last sighs; but
+never had I been called to record anything that moved me so much as this
+man's woes and sufferings, his privations and disappointments, which now
+were poured into my ear. Verily did I begin to perceive that "the Gods
+above do with just eyes survey the affairs of men." I began to recognize
+the hand of an overruling and kindly Providence.
+
+The following are singular facts worthy for reflection. I was,
+commissioned for the duty of discovering Livingstone sometime in
+October, 1869. Mr. Bennett was ready with the money, and I was ready for
+the journey. But, observe, reader, that I did not proceed directly upon
+the search mission. I had many tasks to fulfil before proceeding with
+it, and many thousand miles to travel over. Supposing that I had
+gone direct to Zanzibar from Paris, seven or eight months afterwards,
+perhaps, I should have found myself at Ujiji, but Livingstone would not
+have been found there then; he was on the Lualaba; and I should have
+had to follow him on his devious tracks through the primeval forests of
+Manyuema, and up along the crooked course of the Lualaba for hundreds
+of miles. The time taken by me in travelling up the Nile, back to
+Jerusalem, then to Constantinople, Southern Russia, the Caucasus, and
+Persia, was employed by Livingstone in fruitful discoveries west of the
+Tanganika. Again, consider that I arrived at Unyanyembe in the latter
+part of June, and that owing to a war I was delayed three months at
+Unyanyembe, leading a fretful, peevish and impatient life. But while I
+was thus fretting myself, and being delayed by a series of accidents,
+Livingstone was being forced back to Ujiji in the same month. It took
+him from June to October to march to Ujiji. Now, in September, I broke
+loose from the thraldom which accident had imposed on me, and hurried
+southward to Ukonongo, then westward to Kawendi, then northward to
+Uvinza, then westward to Ujiji, only about three weeks after the
+Doctor's arrival, to find him resting under the veranda of his house
+with his face turned eastward, the direction from which I was coming.
+Had I gone direct from Paris on the search I might have lost him; had I
+been enabled to have gone direct to Ujiji from Unyanyembe I might have
+lost him.
+
+The days came and went peacefully and happily, under the palms of Ujiji.
+My companion was improving in health and spirits. Life had been brought
+back to him; his fading vitality was restored, his enthusiasm for his
+work was growing up again into a height that was compelling him to
+desire to be up and doing. But what could he do, with five men and
+fifteen or twenty cloths?
+
+"Have you seen the northern head of the Tangannka, Doctor?" I asked one
+day.
+
+"No; I did try to go there, but the Wajiji were doing their best to
+fleece me, as they did both Burton and Speke, and I had not a great deal
+of cloth. If I had gone to the head of the Tanganika, I could not have
+gone, to Manyuema. The central line of drainage was the most important,
+and that is the Lualaba. Before this line the question whether there
+is a connection between the Tanganika and the Albert N'Yanza sinks into
+insignificance. The great line of drainage is the river flowing from
+latitude 11 degrees south, which I followed for over seven degrees
+northward. The Chambezi, the name given to its most southern extremity,
+drains a large tract of country south of the southernmost source of the
+Tanganika; it must, therefore, be the most important. I have not the
+least doubt, myself, but that this lake is the Upper Tanganika, and the
+Albert N'Yanza of Baker is the Lower Tanganika, which are connected by a
+river flowing from the upper to the lower. This is my belief, based upon
+reports of the Arabs, and a test I made of the flow with water-plants.
+But I really never gave it much thought."
+
+"Well, if I were you, Doctor, before leaving Ujiji, I should explore it,
+and resolve the doubts upon the subject; lest, after you leave here,
+you should not return by this way. The Royal Geographical Society attach
+much importance to this supposed connection, and declare you are the
+only man who can settle it. If I can be of any service to you, you may
+command me. Though I did not come to Africa as an explorer, I have
+a good deal of curiosity upon the subject, and should be willing to
+accompany you. I have with me about twenty men who understand rowing we
+have plenty of guns, cloth, and beads; and if we can get a canoe from
+the Arabs we can manage the thing easily."
+
+"Oh, we can get a canoe from Sayd bin Majid. This man has been very kind
+to me, and if ever there was an Arab gentleman, he is one."
+
+"Then it is settled, is it, that we go?"
+
+"I am ready, whenever you are."
+
+"I am at your command. Don't you hear my men call you the 'Great
+Master,' and me the 'Little Master?' It would never do for the 'Little
+Master' to command."
+
+By this time Livingstone was becoming known to me. I defy any one to be
+in his society long without thoroughly fathoming him, for in him there
+is no guile, and what is apparent on the surface is the thing that is in
+him. I simply write down my own opinion of the man as I have seen him,
+not as he represents himself; as I know him to be, not as I have heard
+of him. I lived with him from the 10th November, 1871, to the 14th
+March, 1872; witnessed his conduct in the camp, and on the march, and
+my feelings for him are those of unqualified admiration. The camp is the
+best place to discover a man's weaknesses, where, if he is flighty or
+wrong-headed, he is sure to develop his hobbies and weak side. I think
+it possible, however, that Livingstone, with an unsuitable companion,
+might feel annoyance. I know I should do so very readily, if a man's
+character was of that oblique nature that it was an impossibility to
+travel in his company. I have seen men, in whose company I felt nothing
+but a thraldom, which it was a duty to my own self-respect to cast off
+as soon as possible; a feeling of utter incompatibility, with whose
+nature mine could never assimilate. But Livingstone was a character that
+I venerated, that called forth all my enthusiasm, that evoked nothing
+but sincerest admiration.
+
+Dr. Livingstone is about sixty years old, though after he was restored
+to health he appeared more like a man who had not passed his fiftieth
+year. His hair has a brownish colour yet, but is here and there streaked
+with grey lines over the temples; his whiskers and moustache are
+very grey. He shaves his chin daily. His eyes, which are hazel, are
+remarkably bright; he has a sight keen as a hawk's. His teeth alone
+indicate the weakness of age; the hard fare of Lunda has made havoc in
+their lines. His form, which soon assumed a stoutish appearance, is a
+little over the ordinary height with the slightest possible bow in the
+shoulders. When walking he has a firm but heavy tread, like that of an
+overworked or fatigued man. He is accustomed to wear a naval cap with
+a semicircular peak, by which he has been identified throughout Africa.
+His dress, when first I saw him, exhibited traces of patching and
+repairing, but was scrupulously clean.
+
+I was led to believe that Livingstone possessed a splenetic,
+misanthropic temper; some have said that he is garrulous, that he is
+demented; that he has utterly changed from the David Livingstone whom
+people knew as the reverend missionary; that he takes no notes or
+observations but such as those which no other person could read but
+himself; and it was reported, before I proceeded to Central Africa, that
+he was married to an African princess.
+
+I respectfully beg to differ with all and each of the above statements.
+I grant he is not an angel, but he approaches to that being as near
+as the nature of a living man will allow. I never saw any spleen or
+misanthropy in him--as for being garrulous, Dr. Livingstone is quite
+the reverse: he is reserved, if anything; and to the man who says Dr.
+Livingstone is changed, all I can say is, that he never could have known
+him, for it is notorious that the Doctor has a fund of quiet humour,
+which he exhibits at all times whenever he is among friends. I must
+also beg leave to correct the gentleman who informed me that Livingstone
+takes no notes or observations. The huge Letts's Diary which I carried
+home to his daughter is full of notes, and there are no less than a
+score of sheets within it filled with observations which he took during
+the last trip he made to Manyuema alone; and in the middle of the book
+there is sheet after sheet, column after column, carefully written, of
+figures alone. A large letter which I received from him has been sent to
+Sir Thomas MacLear, and this contains nothing but observations. During
+the four months I was with him, I noticed him every evening making most
+careful notes; and a large tin box that he has with him contains numbers
+of field note-books, the contents of which I dare say will see the
+light some time. His maps also evince great care and industry. As to the
+report of his African marriage, it is unnecessary to say more than that
+it is untrue, and it is utterly beneath a gentleman to hint at such a
+thing in connection with the name of David Livingstone.
+
+There is a good-natured abandon about Livingstone which was not lost
+on me. Whenever he began to laugh, there was a contagion about it,
+that compelled me to imitate him. It was such a laugh as Herr
+Teufelsdrockh's--a laugh of the whole man from head to heel. If he
+told a story, he related it in such a way as to convince one of its
+truthfulness; his face was so lit up by the sly fun it contained, that I
+was sure the story was worth relating, and worth listening to.
+
+The wan features which had shocked me at first meeting, the heavy step
+which told of age and hard travel, the grey beard and bowed shoulders,
+belied the man. Underneath that well-worn exterior lay an endless fund
+of high spirits and inexhaustible humour; that rugged frame of his
+enclosed a young and most exuberant soul. Every day I heard innumerable
+jokes and pleasant anecdotes; interesting hunting stories, in which his
+friends Oswell, Webb, Vardon, and Gorden Cumming were almost always the
+chief actors. I was not sure, at first, but this joviality, humour, and
+abundant animal spirits were the result of a joyous hysteria; but as I
+found they continued while I was with him, I am obliged to think them
+natural.
+
+Another thing which specially attracted my attention was his wonderfully
+retentive memory. If we remember the many years he has spent in Africa,
+deprived of books, we may well think it an uncommon memory that can
+recite whole poems from Byron, Burns, Tennyson, Longfellow, Whittier,
+and Lowell. The reason of this may be found, perhaps, in the fact, that
+he has lived all his life almost, we may say, within himself. Zimmerman,
+a great student of human nature, says on this subject "The unencumbered
+mind recalls all that it has read, all that pleased the eye,
+and delighted the ear; and reflecting on every idea which either
+observation, or experience, or discourse has produced, gains new
+information by every reflection. The intellect contemplates all the
+former scenes of life; views by anticipation those that are yet to come;
+and blends all ideas of past and future in the actual enjoyment of the
+present moment." He has lived in a world which revolved inwardly, out
+of which he seldom awoke except to attend to the immediate practical
+necessities of himself and people; then relapsed again into the same
+happy inner world, which he must have peopled with his own friends,
+relations, acquaintances, familiar readings, ideas, and associations; so
+that wherever he might be, or by whatsoever he was surrounded, his own
+world always possessed more attractions to his cultured mind than were
+yielded by external circumstances.
+
+The study of Dr. Livingstone would not be complete if we did not take
+the religious side of his character into consideration. His religion
+is not of the theoretical kind, but it is a constant, earnest, sincere
+practice. It is neither demonstrative nor loud, but manifests itself
+in a quiet, practical way, and is always at work. It is not aggressive,
+which sometimes is troublesome, if not impertinent. In him, religion
+exhibits its loveliest features; it governs his conduct not only towards
+his servants, but towards the natives, the bigoted Mohammedans, and all
+who come in contact with him. Without it, Livingstone, with his ardent
+temperament, his enthusiasm, his high spirit and courage, must have
+become uncompanionable, and a hard master. Religion has tamed him, and
+made him a Christian gentleman: the crude and wilful have been refined
+and subdued; religion has made him the most companionable of men and
+indulgent of masters--a man whose society is pleasurable.
+
+In Livingstone I have seen many amiable traits. His gentleness never
+forsakes him; his hopefulness never deserts him. No harassing anxieties,
+distraction of mind, long separation from home and kindred, can make him
+complain. He thinks "all will come out right at last;" he has such faith
+in the goodness of Providence. The sport of adverse circumstances, the
+plaything of the miserable beings sent to him from Zanzibar--he has been
+baffled and worried, even almost to the grave, yet he will not desert
+the charge imposed upon him by his friend, Sir Roderick Murchison. To
+the stern dictates of duty, alone, has he sacrificed his home and ease,
+the pleasures, refinements, and luxuries of civilized life. His is the
+Spartan heroism, the inflexibility of the Roman, the enduring resolution
+of the Anglo-Saxon--never to relinquish his work, though his heart
+yearns for home; never to surrender his obligations until he can write
+Finis to his work.
+
+But you may take any point in Dr. Livingstone's character, and analyse
+it carefully, and I would challenge any man to find a fault in it. He is
+sensitive, I know; but so is any man of a high mind and generous nature.
+He is sensitive on the point of being doubted or being criticised. An
+extreme love of truth is one of his strongest characteristics, which
+proves him to be a man of strictest principles, and conscientious
+scruples; being such, he is naturally sensitive, and shrinks from any
+attacks on the integrity of his observations, and the accuracy of his
+reports. He is conscious of having laboured in the course of geography
+and science with zeal and industry, to have been painstaking, and as
+exact as circumstances would allow. Ordinary critics seldom take into
+consideration circumstances, but, utterly regardless of the labor
+expended in obtaining the least amount of geographical information in a
+new land, environed by inconceivable dangers and difficulties, such
+as Central Africa presents, they seem to take delight in rending to
+tatters, and reducing to nil, the fruits of long years of labor, by
+sharply-pointed shafts of ridicule and sneers.
+
+Livingstone no doubt may be mistaken in some of his conclusions about
+certain points in the geography of Central Africa, but he is not so
+dogmatic and positive a man as to refuse conviction. He certainly
+demands, when arguments in contra are used in opposition to him, higher
+authority than abstract theory. His whole life is a testimony against
+its unreliability, and his entire labor of years were in vain if theory
+can be taken in evidence against personal observation and patient
+investigation.
+
+The reluctance he manifests to entertain suppositions, possibilities
+regarding the nature, form, configuration of concrete immutable matter
+like the earth, arises from the fact, that a man who commits himself
+to theories about such an untheoretical subject as Central Africa
+is deterred from bestirring himself to prove them by the test of
+exploration. His opinion of such a man is, that he unfits himself
+for his duty, that he is very likely to become a slave to theory--a
+voluptuous fancy, which would master him.
+
+It is his firm belief, that a man who rests his sole knowledge of the
+geography of Africa on theory, deserves to be discredited. It has been
+the fear of being discredited and criticised and so made to appear
+before the world as a man who spent so many valuable years in Africa
+for the sake of burdening the geographical mind with theory that has
+detained him so long in Africa, doing his utmost to test the value of
+the main theory which clung to him, and would cling to him until he
+proved or disproved it.
+
+This main theory is his belief that in the broad and mighty Lualaba he
+has discovered the head waters of the Nile. His grounds for believing
+this are of such nature and weight as to compel him to despise
+the warning that years are advancing on him, and his former iron
+constitution is failing. He believes his speculations on this point will
+be verified; he believes he is strong enough to pursue his explorations
+until he can return to his country, with the announcement that the
+Lualaba is none other than the Nile.
+
+On discovering that the insignificant stream called the Chambezi, which
+rises between 10 degrees S. and 12 degrees S., flowed westerly, and then
+northerly through several lakes, now under the names of the Chambezi,
+then as the Luapula, and then as the Lualaba, and that it still
+continued its flow towards the north for over 7 degrees, Livingstone
+became firmly of the opinion that the river whose current he followed
+was the Egyptian Nile. Failing at lat. 4 degrees S. to pursue his
+explorations further without additional supplies, he determined to
+return to Ujiji to obtain them.
+
+And now, having obtained them, he intends to return to the point where
+he left off work. He means to follow that great river until it is firmly
+established what name shall eventually be given the noble water-way
+whose course he has followed through so many sick toilings and
+difficulties. To all entreaties to come home, to all the glowing
+temptations which home and innumerable friends offer, he returns the
+determined answer:--
+
+"No; not until my work is ended."
+
+I have often heard our servants discuss our respective merits. "Your
+master," say my servants to Livingstone's, "is a good man--a very good
+man; he does not beat you, for he has a kind heart; but ours--oh! he
+is sharp--hot as fire"--"mkali sana, kana moto." From being hated and
+thwarted in every possible way by the Arabs and half-castes upon
+first arrival in Ujiji, he has, through his uniform kindness and mild,
+pleasant temper, won all hearts. I observed that universal respect was
+paid to him. Even the Mohammedans never passed his house without calling
+to pay their compliments, and to say, "The blessing of God rest on you."
+Each Sunday morning he gathers his little flock around him, and reads
+prayers and a chapter from the Bible, in a natural, unaffected, and
+sincere tone; and afterwards delivers a short address in the Kisawahili
+language, about the subject read to them, which is listened to with
+interest and attention.
+
+There is another point in Livingstone's character about which readers of
+his books, and students of his travels, would like to know, and that is
+his ability to withstand the dreadful climate of Central Africa, and
+the consistent energy with which he follows up his explorations. His
+consistent energy is native to him and to his race. He is a very fine
+example of the perseverance, doggedness, and tenacity which characterise
+the Anglo-Saxon spirit; but his ability to withstand the climate is due
+not only to the happy constitution with which he was born, but to the
+strictly temperate life he has ever led. A drunkard and a man of vicious
+habits could never have withstood the climate of Central Africa.
+
+The second day after my arrival in Ujiji I asked the Doctor if he did
+not feel a desire, sometimes, to visit his country, and take a little
+rest after his six years' explorations; and the answer he gave me fully
+reveals the man. Said he:
+
+"I should like very much to go home and see my children once again, but
+I cannot bring my heart to abandon the task I have undertaken, when it
+is so nearly completed. It only requires six or seven months more to
+trace the true source that I have discovered with Petherick's branch of
+the White Nile, or with the Albert N'Yanza of Sir Samuel Baker, which is
+the lake called by the natives 'Chowambe.' Why should I go home before
+my task is ended, to have to come back again to do what I can very well
+do now?"
+
+"And why?" I asked, "did you come so far back without finishing the task
+which you say you have got to do?"
+
+"Simply because I was forced. My men would not budge a step forward.
+They mutinied, and formed a secret resolution--if I still insisted upon
+going on--to raise a disturbance in the country, and after they had
+effected it to abandon me; in which case I should have been killed. It
+was dangerous to go any further. I had explored six hundred miles of the
+watershed, had traced all the principal streams which discharge their
+waters into the central line of drainage, but when about starting to
+explore the last hundred miles the hearts of my people failed them,
+and they set about frustrating me in every possible way. Now, having
+returned seven hundred miles to get a new supply of stores, and another
+escort, I find myself destitute of even the means to live but for a few
+weeks, and sick in mind and body."
+
+Here I may pause to ask any brave man how he would have comported
+himself in such a crisis. Many would have been in exceeding hurry to get
+home to tell the news of the continued explorations and discoveries,
+and to relieve the anxiety of the sorrowing family and friends awaiting
+their return. Enough surely had been accomplished towards the solution
+of the problem that had exercised the minds of his scientific associates
+of the Royal Geograpical Society. It was no negative exploration, it was
+hard, earnest labor of years, self-abnegation, enduring patience, and
+exalted fortitude, such as ordinary men fail to exhibit.
+
+Suppose Livingstone had hurried to the coast after he had discovered
+Lake Bangweolo, to tell the news to the geographical world; then had
+returned to discover Moero, and run away again; then went back once more
+only to discover Kamolondo, and to race back again. This would not be in
+accordance with Livingstone's character. He must not only discover the
+Chambezi, Lake Bangweolo, Luapula River, Lake Moero, Lualaba River, and
+Lake Kamolondo, but he must still tirelessly urge his steps forward to
+put the final completion to the grand lacustrine river system. Had he
+followed the example of ordinary explorers, he would have been running
+backwards and forwards to tell the news, instead of exploring; and he
+might have been able to write a volume upon the discovery of each lake,
+and earn much money thereby. They are no few months' explorations that
+form the contents of his books. His 'Missionary Travels' embraces a
+period of sixteen years; his book on the Zambezi, five years; and if the
+great traveller lives to come home, his third book, the grandest of all,
+must contain the records of eight or nine years.
+
+It is a principle with Livingstone to do well what he undertakes to do;
+and in the consciousness that he is doing it, despite the yearning for
+his home which is sometimes overpowering, he finds, to a certain extent,
+contentment, if not happiness. To men differently constituted, a long
+residence amongst the savages of Africa would be contemplated
+with horror, yet Livingstone's mind can find pleasure and food for
+philosophic studies. The wonders of primeval nature, the great forests
+and sublime mountains, the perennial streams and sources of the great
+lakes, the marvels of the earth, the splendors of the tropic sky by day
+and by night--all terrestrial and celestial phenomena are manna to a
+man of such self-abnegation and devoted philanthropic spirit. He can be
+charmed with the primitive simplicity of Ethiop's dusky children, with
+whom he has spent so many years of his life; he has a sturdy faith in
+their capabilities; sees virtue in them where others see nothing but
+savagery; and wherever he has gone among them, he has sought to elevate
+a people that were apparently forgotten of God and Christian man.
+
+One night I took out my note-book, and prepared to take down from his
+own lips what he had to say about his travels; and unhesitatingly he
+related his experiences, of which the following is a summary:
+
+Dr. David Livingstone left the Island of Zanzibar in March, 1866. On
+the 7th of the following month he departed from Mikindany Bay for the
+interior, with an expedition consisting of twelve Sepoys from Bombay,
+nine men from Johanna, of the Comoro Islands, seven liberated slaves,
+and two Zambezi men, taking them as an experiment; six camels, three
+buffaloes, two mules, and three donkeys. He had thus thirty men with
+him, twelve of whom, viz., the Sepoys, were to act as guards for the
+Expedition. They were mostly armed with the Enfield rifles presented
+to the Doctor by the Bombay Government. The baggage of the expedition
+consisted of ten bales of cloth and two bags of beads, which were to
+serve as the currency by which they would be enabled to purchase the
+necessaries of life in the countries the Doctor intended to visit.
+Besides the cumbrous moneys, they carried several boxes of instruments,
+such as chronometers, air thermometers, sextant, and artificial horizon,
+boxes containing clothes, medicines, and personal necessaries. The
+expedition travelled up the left bank of the Rovuma River, a route as
+full of difficulties as any that could be chosen. For miles Livingstone
+and his party had to cut their way with their axes through the dense and
+almost impenetrable jungles which lined the river's banks. The road was
+a mere footpath, leading in the most erratic fashion into and through
+the dense vegetation, seeking the easiest outlet from it without any
+regard to the course it ran. The pagazis were able to proceed easily
+enough; but the camels, on account of their enormous height, could not
+advance a step without the axes of the party clearing the way. These
+tools of foresters were almost always required; but the advance of the
+expedition was often retarded by the unwillingness of the Sepoys and
+Johanna men to work.
+
+Soon after the departure of the expedition from the coast, the
+murmurings and complaints of these men began, and upon every occasion
+and at every opportunity they evinced a decided hostility to an advance.
+In order to prevent the progress of the Doctor, and in hopes that it
+would compel him to return to the coast, these men so cruelly treated
+the animals that before long there was not one left alive. But as this
+scheme failed, they set about instigating the natives against the white
+men, whom they accused most wantonly of strange practices. As this plan
+was most likely to succeed, and as it was dangerous to have such men
+with him, the Doctor arrived at the conclusion that it was best to
+discharge them, and accordingly sent the Sepoys back to the coast; but
+not without having first furnished them with the means of subsistence on
+their journey to the coast. These men were such a disreputable set that
+the natives spoke of them as the Doctor's slaves. One of their worst
+sins was the custom of giving their guns and ammunition to carry to the
+first woman or boy they met, whom they impressed for that purpose by
+such threats or promises as they were totally unable to perform, and
+unwarranted in making. An hour's marching was sufficient to fatigue
+them, after which they lay down on the road to bewail their hard fate,
+and concoct new schemes to frustrate their leader's purposes. Towards
+night they generally made their appearance at the camping-ground with
+the looks of half-dead men. Such men naturally made but a poor escort;
+for, had the party been attacked by a wandering tribe of natives of
+any strength, the Doctor could have made no defence, and no other
+alternative would have been left to him but to surrender and be ruined.
+
+The Doctor and his little party arrived on the 18th July, 1866, at a
+village belonging to a chief of the Wahiyou, situate eight days' march
+south of the Rovuma, and overlooking the watershed of the Lake Nyassa.
+The territory lying between the Rovuma River and this Wahiyou village
+was an uninhabited wilderness, during the transit of which Livingstone
+and his expedition suffered considerably from hunger and desertion of
+men.
+
+Early in August, 1866, the Doctor came to the country of Mponda, a
+chief who dwelt near the Lake Nyassa. On the road thither, two of the
+liberated slaves deserted him. Here also, Wekotani, a protege of the
+Doctor, insisted upon his discharge, alleging as an excuse--an excuse
+which the Doctor subsequently found to be untrue--that he had found his
+brother. He also stated that his family lived on the east side of the
+Nyassa Lake. He further stated that Mponda's favourite wife was his
+sister. Perceiving that Wekotani was unwilling to go with him further,
+the Doctor took him to Mponda, who now saw and heard of him for the
+first time, and, having furnished the ungrateful boy with enough cloth
+and beads to keep him until his "big brother" should call for him, left
+him with the chief, after first assuring himself that he would
+receive honourable treatment from him. The Doctor also gave Wekotanti
+writing-paper--as he could read and write, being accomplishments
+acquired at Bombay, where he had been put to school--so that, should he
+at any time feel disposed, he might write to his English friends, or to
+himself. The Doctor further enjoined him not to join in any of the
+slave raids usually made by his countrymen, the men of Nyassa, on
+their neighbours. Upon finding that his application for a discharge was
+successful, Wekotani endeavoured to induce Chumah, another protege
+of the Doctor's, and a companion, or chum, of Wekotani, to leave the
+Doctor's service and proceed with him, promising, as a bribe, a wife
+and plenty of pombe from his "big brother." Chumah, upon referring the
+matter to the Doctor, was advised not to go, as he (the Doctor) strongly
+suspected that Wekotani wanted only to make him his slave. Chumah wisely
+withdrew from his tempter. From Mponda's, the Doctor proceeded to the
+heel of the Nyassa, to the village of a Babisa chief, who required
+medicine for a skin disease. With his usual kindness, he stayed at this
+chief's village to treat his malady.
+
+While here, a half-caste Arab arrived from the western shore of the
+lake, and reported that he had been plundered by a band of Mazitu, at
+a place which the Doctor and Musa, chief of the Johanna men, were very
+well aware was at least 150 miles north-north-west of where they were
+then stopping. Musa, however, for his own reasons--which will appear
+presently--eagerly listened to the Arab's tale, and gave full credence
+to it. Having well digested its horrible details, he came to the Doctor
+to give him the full benefit of what he had heard with such willing
+ears. The traveller patiently listened to the narrative, which lost
+nothing of its portentous significance through Musa's relation, and then
+asked Musa if he believed it. "Yes," answered Musa, readily; "he tell
+me true, true. I ask him good, and he tell me true, true." The Doctor,
+however, said he did not believe it, for the Mazitu would not have been
+satisfied with merely plundering a man, they would have murdered him;
+but suggested, in order to allay the fears of his Moslem subordinate,
+that they should both proceed to the chief with whom they were staying,
+who, being a sensible man, would be able to advise them as to the
+probability or improbability of the tale being correct. Together, they
+proceeded to the Babisa chief, who, when he had heard the Arab's story,
+unhesitatingly denounced the Arab as a liar, and his story without the
+least foundation in fact; giving as a reason that, if the Mazitu had
+been lately in that vicinity, he should have heard of it soon enough.
+
+But Musa broke out with "No, no, Doctor; no, no, no; I no want to go to
+Mazitu. I no want Mazitu to kill me. I want to see my father, my
+mother, my child, in Johanna. I want no Mazitu." These are Musa's words
+_ipsissima verba_.
+
+To which the Doctor replied, "I don't want the Mazitu to kill me either;
+but, as you are afraid of them, I promise to go straight west until we
+get far past the beat of the Mazitu."
+
+Musa was not satisfied, but kept moaning and sorrowing, saying, "If we
+had two hundred guns with us I would go; but our small party of men they
+will attack by night, and kill all."
+
+The Doctor repeated his promise, "But I will not go near them; I will go
+west."
+
+As soon as he turned his face westward, Musa and the Johanna men ran
+away in a body.
+
+The Doctor says, in commenting upon Musa's conduct, that he felt
+strongly tempted to shoot Musa and another ringleader, but was,
+nevertheless, glad that he did not soil his hands with their vile blood.
+A day or two afterwards, another of his men--Simon Price by name--came
+to the Doctor with the same tale about the Mazitu, but, compelled by the
+scant number of his people to repress all such tendencies to desertion
+and faint-heartedness, the Doctor silenced him at once, and sternly
+forbade him to utter the name of the Mazitu any more.
+
+Had the natives not assisted him, he must have despaired of ever being
+able to penetrate the wild and unexplored interior which he was now
+about to tread. "Fortunately," as the Doctor says with unction, "I was
+in a country now, after leaving the shores of Nyassa, which the foot
+of the slave-trader has not trod; it was a new and virgin land, and of
+course, as I have always found in such cases, the natives were really
+good and hospitable, and for very small portions of cloth my baggage
+was conveyed from village to village by them." In many other ways
+the traveller, in his extremity, was kindly treated by the yet
+unsophisticated and innocent natives.
+
+On leaving this hospitable region in the early part of December, 1866,
+the Doctor entered a country where the Mazitu had exercised their
+customary marauding propensities. The land was swept clean of provisions
+and cattle, and the people had emigrated to other countries, beyond the
+bounds of those ferocious plunderers. Again the Expedition was besieged
+by pinching hunger from which they suffered; they had recourse to the
+wild fruits which some parts of the country furnished. At intervals
+the condition of the hard-pressed band was made worse by the heartless
+desertion of some of its members, who more than once departed with the
+Doctor's personal kit, changes of clothes, linen, &c. With more or less
+misfortunes constantly dogging his footsteps, he traversed in safety the
+countries of the Babisa, Bobemba, Barungu, Ba-ulungu, and Lunda.
+
+In the country of Lunda lives the famous Cazembe, who was first made
+known to Europeans by Dr. Lacerda, the Portuguese traveller. Cazembe
+is a most intelligent prince; he is a tall, stalwart man, who wears
+a peculiar kind of dress, made of crimson print, in the form of
+a prodigious kilt. In this state dress, King Cazembe received Dr.
+Livingstone, surrounded by his chiefs and body-guards. A chief, who had
+been deputed by the King and elders to discover all about the white man,
+then stood up before the assembly, and in a loud voice gave the result
+of the inquiry he had instituted. He had heard that the white man had
+come to look for waters, for rivers, and seas; though he could not
+understand what the white man could want with such things, he had no
+doubt that the object was good. Then Cazembe asked what the Doctor
+proposed doing, and where he thought of going. The Doctor replied that
+he had thought of proceeding south, as he had heard of lakes and rivers
+being in that direction. Cazembe asked, "What can you want to go there
+for? The water is close here. There is plenty of large water in this
+neighbourhood." Before breaking up the assembly, Cazembe gave orders to
+let the white man go where he would through his country undisturbed and
+unmolested. He was the first Englishman he had seen, he said, and he
+liked him.
+
+Shortly after his introduction to the King, the Queen entered the large
+house, surrounded by a body-guard of Amazons with spears. She was a
+fine, tall, handsome young woman, and evidently thought she was about
+to make an impression upon the rustic white man, for she had clothed
+herself after a most royal fashion, and was armed with a ponderous
+spear. But her appearance--so different from what the Doctor had
+imagined--caused him to laugh, which entirely spoiled the effect
+intended; for the laugh of the Doctor was so contagious, that she
+herself was the first to imitate it, and the Amazons, courtier-like,
+followed suit. Much disconcerted by this, the Queen ran back, followed
+by her obedient damsels--a retreat most undignified and unqueenlike,
+compared with her majestic advent into the Doctor's presence. But
+Livingstone will have much to say about his reception at this court, and
+about this interesting King and Queen; and who can so well relate the
+scenes he witnessed, and which belong exclusively to him, as he himself?
+
+Soon after his arrival in the country of Lunda, or Londa, and before he
+had entered the district ruled over by Cazembe, he had crossed a river
+called the Chambezi, which was quite an important stream. The similarity
+of the name with that large and noble river south, which will be for
+ever connected with his name, misled Livingstone at that time, and he,
+accordingly, did not pay to it the attention it deserved, believing that
+the Chambezi was but the head-waters of the Zambezi, and consequently
+had no bearing or connection with the sources of the river of Egypt, of
+which he was in search. His fault was in relying too implicitly upon
+the correctness of Portuguese information. This error it cost him many
+months of tedious labour and travel to rectify.
+
+From the beginning of 1867--the time of his arrival at Cazembe's--till
+the middle of March, 1869--the time of his arrival at Ujiji--he was
+mostly engaged in correcting the errors and misrepresentations of
+the Portuguese travellers. The Portuguese, in speaking of the River
+Chambezi, invariably spoke of it as "our own Zambezi,"--that is,
+the Zambezi which flows through the Portuguese possessions of the
+Mozambique. "In going to Cazembe from Nyassa," said they, "you will
+cross our own Zambezi." Such positive and reiterated information--given
+not only orally, but in their books and maps--was naturally confusing.
+When the Doctor perceived that what he saw and what they described were
+at variance, out of a sincere wish to be correct, and lest he might
+have been mistaken himself, he started to retravel the ground he had
+travelled before. Over and over again he traversed the several countries
+watered by the several rivers of the complicated water system, like an
+uneasy spirit. Over and over again he asked the same questions from
+the different peoples he met, until he was obliged to desist, lest they
+might say, "The man is mad; he has got water on the brain!"
+
+But his travels and tedious labours in Lunda and the adjacent countries
+have established beyond doubt--first, that the Chambezi is a totally
+distinct river from the Zambezi of the Portuguese; and, secondly, that
+the Chambezi, starting from about latitude 11 degrees south, is no
+other than the most southerly feeder of the great Nile; thus giving that
+famous river a length of over 2,000 miles of direct latitude; making it,
+second to the Mississippi, the longest river in the world. The real and
+true name of the Zambezi is Dombazi. When Lacerda and his Portuguese
+successors, coming to Cazembe, crossed the Chambezi, and heard its
+name, they very naturally set it down as "our own Zambezi," and, without
+further inquiry, sketched it as running in that direction.
+
+During his researches in that region, so pregnant in discoveries,
+Livingstone came to a lake lying north-east of Cazembe, which the
+natives call Liemba, from the country of that name which bordered it on
+the east and south. In tracing the lake north, he found it to be none
+other than the Tanganika, or the south-eastern extremity of it, which
+looks, on the Doctor's map, very much like an outline of Italy. The
+latitude of the southern end of this great body of water is about 8
+degrees 42 minutes south, which thus gives it a length, from north to
+south, of 360 geographical miles. From the southern extremity of the
+Tanganika he crossed Marungu, and came in sight of Lake Moero. Tracing
+this lake, which is about sixty miles in length, to its southern head,
+he found a river, called the Luapula, entering it from that direction.
+Following the Luapula south, he found it issue from the large lake
+of Bangweolo, which is nearly as large in superficial area as the
+Tanganika. In exploring for the waters which discharged themselves into
+the lake, he found that by far the most important of these feeders was
+the Chambezi; so that he had thus traced the Chambezi from its source to
+Lake Bangweolo, and the issue from its northern head, under the name of
+Luapula, and found it enter Lake Moero. Again he returned to Cazembe's,
+well satisfied that the river running north through three degrees of
+latitude could not be the river running south under the name of Zambezi,
+though there might be a remarkable resemblance in their names.
+
+At Cazembe's he found an old white-bearded half-caste named Mohammed bin
+Sali, who was kept as a kind of prisoner at large by the King because
+of certain suspicious circumstances attending his advent and stay in the
+country. Through Livingstone's influence Mohammed bin Sali obtained
+his release. On the road to Ujiji he had bitter cause to regret having
+exerted himself in the half-caste's behalf. He turned out to be a most
+ungrateful wretch, who poisoned the minds of the Doctor's few followers,
+and ingratiated himself with them by selling the favours of his
+concubines to them, by which he reduced them to a kind of bondage under
+him. The Doctor was deserted by all but two, even faithful Susi and
+Chumah deserted him for the service of Mohammed bin Sali. But they soon
+repented, and returned to their allegiance. From the day he had the
+vile old man in his company manifold and bitter misfortunes followed the
+Doctor up to his arrival at Ujiji in March, 1869.
+
+From the date of his arrival until the end of June, 1869, he remained
+at Ujiji, whence he dated those letters which, though the outside
+world still doubted his being alive, satisfied the minds of the Royal
+Geographical people, and his intimate friends, that he still existed,
+and that Musa'a tale was the false though ingenious fabrication of a
+cowardly deserter. It was during this time that the thought occurred to
+him of sailing around the Lake Tanganika, but the Arabs and natives were
+so bent upon fleecing him that, had he undertaken it, the remainder
+or his goods would not have enabled him to explore the central line of
+drainage, the initial point of which he found far south of Cazembe's in
+about latitude 11 degrees, in the river called Chambezi.
+
+In the days when tired Captain Burton was resting in Ujiji, after his
+march from the coast near Zanzibar, the land to which Livingstone, on
+his departure from Ujiji, bent his steps was unknown to the Arabs save
+by vague report. Messrs. Burton and Speke never heard of it, it seems.
+Speke, who was the geographer of Burton's Expedition, heard of a place
+called Urua, which he placed on his map, according to the general
+direction indicated by the Arabs; but the most enterprising of the
+Arabs, in their search after ivory, only touched the frontiers of Rua,
+as, the natives and Livingstone call it; for Rua is an immense country,
+with a length of six degrees of latitude, and as yet an undefined
+breadth from east to west.
+
+At the end of June, 1869, Livingstone quitted Ujiji and crossed over
+to Uguhha, on the western shore, for his last and greatest series of
+explorations; the result of which was the further discovery of a lake
+of considerable magnitude connected with Moero by the large river called
+the Lualaba, and which was a continuation of the chain of lakes he had
+previously discovered.
+
+From the port of Uguhha he set off, in company with a body of traders,
+in an almost direct westerly course, for the country of Urua. Fifteen
+days' march brought them to Bambarre, the first important ivory depot
+in Manyema, or, as the natives pronounce it, Manyuema. For nearly
+six months he was detained at Bambarre from ulcers in the feet, which
+discharged bloody ichor as soon as he set them on the ground. When
+recovered, he set off in a northerly direction, and after several days
+came to a broad lacustrine river, called the Lualaba, flowing northward
+and westward, and in some places southward, in a most confusing way.
+The river was from one to three miles broad. By exceeding pertinacity he
+contrived to follow its erratic course, until he saw the Lualaba enter
+the narrow, long lake of Kamolondo, in about latitude 6 degrees 30
+minutes. Retracing this to the south, he came to the point where he had
+seen the Luapula enter Lake Moero.
+
+One feels quite enthusiastic when listening to Livingstone's description
+of the beauties of Moero scenery. Pent in on all sides by high
+mountains, clothed to the edges with the rich vegetation of the tropics,
+the Moero discharges its superfluous waters through a deep rent in the
+bosom of the mountains. The impetuous and grand river roars through
+the chasm with the thunder of a cataract, but soon after leaving its
+confined and deep bed it expands into the calm and broad Lualaba,
+stretching over miles of ground. After making great bends west and
+south-west, and then curving northward, it enters Kamolondo. By
+the natives it is called the Lualaba, but the Doctor, in order to
+distinguish it from other rivers of the same name, has given it the name
+of "Webb's River," after Mr. Webb, the wealthy proprietor of Newstead
+Abbey, whom the Doctor distinguishes as one of his oldest and most
+consistent friends. Away to the south-west from Kamolondo is another
+large lake, which discharges its waters by the important River Loeki, or
+Lomami, into the great Lualaba. To this lake, known as Chebungo by
+the natives, Dr. Livingstone has given the name of "Lincoln," to be
+hereafter distinguished on maps and in books as Lake Lincoln, in memory
+of Abraham Lincoln, our murdered President. This was done from the vivid
+impression produced on his mind by hearing a portion of his inauguration
+speech read from an English pulpit, which related to the causes that
+induced him to issue his Emancipation Proclamation, by which memorable
+deed 4,000,000 of slaves were for ever freed. To the memory of the man
+whose labours on behalf of the negro race deserves the commendation of
+all good men, Livingstone has contributed a monument more durable than
+brass or stone.
+
+Entering Webb's River from the south-south-west, a little north of
+Kamolondo, is a large river called Lufira, but the streams, that
+discharge themselves from the watershed into the Lualaba are so numerous
+that the Doctor's map would not contain them, so he has left all out
+except the most important. Continuing his way north, tracing the Lualaba
+through its manifold and crooked curves as far as latitude 4 degrees
+south, he came to where he heard of another lake, to the north, into
+which it ran. But here you may come to a dead halt, and read what lies
+beyond this spot thus.... This was the furthermost point, whence he was
+compelled to return on the weary road to Ujiji, a distance of 700 miles.
+
+In this brief sketch of Dr. Livingstone's wonderful travels it is to be
+hoped the most superficial reader, as well as the student of geography,
+comprehends this grand system of lakes connected together by Webb's
+River. To assist him, let him glance at the map accompanying this book.
+He will then have a fair idea of what Dr. Livingstone has been doing
+during these long years, and what additions he has made to the study of
+African geography. That this river, distinguished under several titles,
+flowing from one lake into another in a northerly direction, with all
+its great crooked bends and sinuosities, is the Nile--the true Nile--the
+Doctor has not the least doubt. For a long time he entertained great
+scepticism, because of its deep bends and curves west, and south-west
+even; but having traced it from its head waters, the Chambezi, through
+7 degrees of latitude--that is, from 11 degrees S. to lat. 4 degrees
+N.--he has been compelled to come to the conclusion that it can be no
+other river than the Nile. He had thought it was the Congo; but has
+discovered the sources of the Congo to be the Kassai and the Kwango, two
+rivers which rise on the western side of the Nile watershed, in about
+the latitude of Bangweolo; and he was told of another river called the
+Lubilash, which rose from the north, and ran west. But the Lualaba, the
+Doctor thinks, cannot be the Congo, from its great size and body,
+and from its steady and continued flow northward through a broad and
+extensive valley, bounded by enormous mountains westerly and easterly.
+The altitude of the most northerly point to which the Doctor traced the
+wonderful river was a little in excess of 2,000 feet; so that, though
+Baker makes out his lake to be 2,700 feet above the sea, yet the Bahr
+Ghazal, through which Petherick's branch of the White Nile issues into
+the Nile, is but 2,000 feet; in which case there is a possibility that
+the Lualaba may be none other than Petherick's branch.
+
+It is well known that trading stations for ivory have been established
+for about 500 miles up Petherick's branch. We must remember this fact
+when told that Gondokoro, in lat. 4 degrees N., is 2,000 feet above the
+sea, and lat. 4 degrees S., where the halt was made, is only a little
+over 2,000 feet above the sea. That the two rivers said to be 2,000 feet
+above the sea, separated from each other by 8 degrees of latitude, are
+one and the same river, may among some men be regarded as a startling
+statement. But we must restrain mere expressions of surprise, and take
+into consideration that this mighty and broad Lualaba is a lacustrine
+river broader than the Mississippi; that at intervals the body of water
+forms extensive lakes; then, contracting into a broad river, it again
+forms a lake, and so on, to lat. 4 degrees; and even beyond this point
+the Doctor hears of a large lake again north.
+
+We must wait also until the altitudes of the two rivers, the Lualaba,
+where the Doctor halted, and the southern point on the Bahr Ghazal,
+where Petherick has been, are known with perfect accuracy.
+
+Now, for the sake of argument, suppose we give this nameless lake a
+length of 6 degrees of latitude, as it may be the one discovered by
+Piaggia, the Italian traveller, from which Petherick's branch of the
+White Nile issues out through reedy marshes, into the Bahr Ghazal,
+thence into the White Nile, south of Gondokoro. By this method we can
+suppose the rivers one; for if the lake extends over so many degrees of
+latitude, the necessity of explaining the differences of altitude that
+must naturally exist between two points of a river 8 degrees of latitude
+apart, would be obviated.
+
+Also, Livingstone's instruments for observation and taking altitudes
+may have been in error; and this is very likely to have been the case,
+subjected as they have been to rough handling during nearly six years
+of travel. Despite the apparent difficulty of the altitude, there is
+another strong reason for believing Webb's River, or the Lualaba, to be
+the Nile. The watershed of this river, 600 miles of which Livingstone
+has travelled, is drained from a valley which lies north and south
+between lofty eastern and western ranges.
+
+This valley, or line of drainage, while it does not receive the Kassai
+and the Kwango, receives rivers flowing from a great distance west, for
+instance, the important tributaries Lufira and Lomami, and large
+rivers from the east, such as the Lindi and Luamo; and, while the most
+intelligent Portuguese travellers and traders state that the Kassai, the
+Kwango, and Lubilash are the head waters of the Congo River, no one
+has yet started the supposition that the grand river flowing north, and
+known by the natives as the Lualaba, is the Congo.
+
+This river may be the Congo, or, perhaps, the Niger. If the Lualaba is
+only 2,000 feet above the sea, and the Albert N'Yanza 2,700 feet, the
+Lualaba cannot enter that lake. If the Bahr Ghazal does not extend by
+an arm for eight degrees above Gondokoro, then the Lualaba cannot be the
+Nile. But it would be premature to dogmatise on the subject. Livingstone
+will clear up the point himself; and if he finds it to be the Congo,
+will be the first to admit his error.
+
+Livingstone admits the Nile sources have not been found, though he has
+traced the Lualaba through seven degrees of latitude flowing north; and,
+though he has not a particle of doubt of its being the Nile, not yet can
+the Nile question be said to be resolved and ended. For two reasons:
+
+1. He has heard of the existence of four fountains, two of which gave
+birth to a river flowing north, Webb's River, or the Lualaba, and to a
+river flowing south, which is the Zambezi. He has repeatedly heard of
+these fountains from the natives. Several times he has been within 100
+and 200 miles from them, but something always interposed to prevent his
+going to see them. According to those who have seen them, they rise on
+either side of a mound or level, which contains no stones. Some have
+called it an ant-hill. One of these fountains is said to be so large
+that a man, standing on one side, cannot be seen from the other. These
+fountains must be discovered, and their position taken. The Doctor does
+not suppose them to be south of the feeders of Lake Bangweolo. In his
+letter to the 'Herald' he says "These four full-grown gushing fountains,
+rising so near each other, and giving origin to four large rivers,
+answer in a certain degree to the description given of the unfathomable
+fountains of the Nile, by the secretary of Minerva, in the city of Sais,
+in Egypt, to the father of all travellers--Herodotus."
+
+For the information of such readers as may not have the original at
+hand, I append the following from Cary's translation of Herodotus:
+(II.28)
+
+(Jul 2001 The History of Herodotus V1 by Herodotus; Macaulay)
+
+
+***  With respect to the sources of the Nile, no man of all the
+  Egyptians, Libyans, or Grecians, with whom I have conversed,
+  ever pretended to know anything, except the registrar* of Minerva's
+
+*the secretary of the treasury of the goddess Neith, or Athena as
+Herodotus calls her: ho grammatiste:s to:n hiro:n xre:mato:n te:s
+Athe:naie:s>
+
+  treasury at Sais, in Egypt.  He, indeed, seemed to be trifling
+  with me when he said he knew perfectly well; yet his account was
+  as follows: "That there are two mountains, rising into a sharp
+  peak, situated between the city of Syene, in Thebais, and
+  Elephantine.  The names of these mountains are the one Crophi,
+  the other Mophi; that the sources of the Nile, which are bottomless,
+  flow from between these mountains and that half of the water flows
+  over Egypt and to the north, the other half over Ethiopia and the
+  south.  That the fountains of the Nile are bottomless, he said,
+  Psammitichus, king of Egypt, proved by experiment: for, having
+  caused a line to be twisted many thousand fathoms in length, he
+  let it down, but could not find a bottom."  Such, then, was the
+  opinion the registrar gave, if, indeed, he spoke the real truth;
+  proving, in my opinion, that there are strong whirlpools and an
+  eddy here, so that the water beating against the rocks, a
+  sounding-line, when let down, cannot reach the bottom.  I was
+  unable to learn anything more from any one else.  But thus much
+  I learnt by carrying my researches as far as possible, having gone
+  and made my own observations as far as Elephantine, and beyond
+  that obtaining information from hearsay.  As one ascends the river,
+  above the city of Elephantine, the country is steep; here,
+  therefore; it is necessary to attach a rope on both sides of a boat,
+  as one does with an ox in a plough, and so proceed; but if
+  the rope should happen to break, the boat is carried away by the
+  force of the stream.  This kind of country lasts for a four-days'
+  passage, and the Nile here winds as much as the Maeander.  There
+  are twelve schoeni, which it is necessary to sail through in
+  this manner; and after that you will come to a level plain, where
+  the Nile flows round an island; its name is Tachompso.  Ethiopians
+  inhabit the country immediately above Elephantine, and one half
+  of the island; the other half is inhabited by Egyptians.  Near to
+  this island lies a vast lake, on the borders of which Ethiopian
+  nomades dwell.  After sailing through this lake you will come to
+  the channel of the Nile, which flows into it: then you will have
+  to land and travel forty days by the side of the river, for sharp
+  rocks rise in the Nile, and there are many sunken ones, through
+  which it is not possible to navigate a boat.  Having passed this
+  country in the forty days, you must go on board another boat, and
+  sail for twelve days; and then you will arrive at a large city,
+  called Meroe; this city is said to be the capital of all
+  Ethiopia.  The inhabitants worship no other gods than Jupiter and
+  Bacchus; but these they honour with great magnificence.  They
+  have also an oracle of Jupiter; and they make war whenever that
+  god bids them by an oracular warning, and against whatever
+  country he bids them.  Sailing from this city, you will arrive at
+  the country of the Automoli, in a space of time equal to that
+  which you took in coming from Elephantine to the capital of the
+  Ethiopians.  These Automoli are called by the name of Asmak,
+  which, in the language of Greece, signifies "those that stand at
+  the left hand of the king."  These, to the number of two hundred and
+  forty thousand of the Egyptian war-tribe, revolted to the
+  Ethiopians on the following occasion.  In the reign of King
+  Psammitichus garrisons were stationed at Elephantine against the
+  Ethiopians, and another at the Pelusian Daphnae against the
+  Arabians and Syrians, and another at Marea against Libya; and even
+  in my time garrisons of the Persians are stationed in the same
+  places as they were in the time of Psammitichus, for they
+  maintain guards at Elephantine and Daphnae.  Now, these Egyptians,
+  after they had been on duty three years, were not relieved;
+  therefore, having consulted together and come to an unanimous
+  resolution, they all revolted from Psammitichus, and went to
+  Ethiopia.  Psammitichus, hearing of this, pursued them; and when
+  he overtook them he entreated them by many arguments, and adjured
+  them not to forsake the gods of their fathers, and their
+  children and wives But one of them is reported to have uncovered
+  [        ] and to have said, that wheresoever these were there they
+
+["which it is said that one of them pointed to his privy member and
+said that wherever this was, there would they have both children and
+wives"--Macaulay tr.; published edition censors]
+
+  should find both children and wives."  These men, when they arrived
+  in Ethiopia, offered their services to the king of the Ethiopians,
+  who made them the following recompense.  There were certain
+  Ethiopians disaffected towards him; these he bade them expel,
+  and take possession of their land.  By the settlement of these men
+  among the Ethiopians, the Ethiopians became more civilized, and
+  learned the manners of the Egyptians.
+
+  Now, for a voyage and land journey of four months, the Nile is
+  known, in addition to the part f the stream that is in Egypt; for,
+  upon computation, so many months are known to be spent by a
+  person who travels from Elephantine to the Automoli.  This river
+  flows from the west and the setting of the sun; but beyond this no
+  one is able to speak with certainty, for the rest of the country
+  is desert by reason of the excessive heat.  But I have heard the
+  following account from certain Cyrenaeans, who say that they went
+  to the oracle of Ammon, and had a conversation with Etearchus, King
+  of the Ammonians, and that, among other subjects, they happened to
+  discourse about the Nile--that nobody knew its sources; whereupon
+  Etearchus said that certain Nasamonians once came to him--this
+  nation is Lybian, and inhabits the Syrtis, and the country for no
+  great distance eastward of the Syrtis--and that when these
+  Nasamonians arrived, and were asked if they could give any
+  further formation touching the deserts of Libya, they answered,
+  that there were some daring youths amongst them, sons of powerful
+  men; and that they, having reached man's estate, formed many
+  other extravagant plans, and, moreover, chose five of their number
+  by lot to explore the deserts of Libya, to see if they could make
+  any further discovery than those who had penetrated the farthest.
+  (For, as respects the parts of Libya along the Northern Sea,
+  beginning from Egypt to the promontory of Solois, where is the
+  extremity of Libya, Libyans and various nations of Libyans reach
+  all along it, except those parts which are occupied by Grecians
+  and Phoenicians; but as respects the parts above the sea, and
+  those nations which reach down to the sea, in the upper parts
+  Libya is infested by wild beasts; and all beyond that is sand,
+  dreadfully short of water, and utterly desolate.)  They further
+  related, "that when the young men deputed by their companions
+  set out, well furnished with water and provisions, they passed
+  first through the inhabited country; and having traversed this,
+  they came to the region infested by wild beasts; and after this
+  they crossed the desert, making their way towards the west; and
+  when they had traversed much sandy ground, during a journey of
+  many days, they at length saw some trees growing in a plain; and
+  that they approached and began to gather the fruit that grew on
+  the trees; and while they were gathering, some diminutive men,
+  less than men of middle stature, came up, and having seized them
+  carried them away; and that the Nasamonians did not at all understand
+  their language, nor those who carried them off the language of
+  the Nasamonians.  However, they conducted them through vast
+  morasses, and when they had passed these, they came to a city in
+  which all the inhabitants were of the same size as their conductors,
+  and black in colour: and by the city flowed a great river, running
+  from the west to the east, and that crocodiles were seen in it."
+  Thus far I have set forth the account of Etearchus the Ammonian;
+  to which may be added, as the Cyrenaeans assured me, "that he said
+  the Nasamonians all returned safe to their own country, and that
+  the men whom they came to were all necromancers."  Etearchus also
+  conjectured that this river, which flows by their city, is the Nile;
+  and reason so evinces: for the Nile flows from Libya, and intersects
+  it in the middle; and (as I conjecture, inferring things unknown
+  from things known) it sets out from a point corresponding with the
+  Ister.  For the Ister, beginning from the Celts, and the city of
+  Pyrene, divides Europe in its course; but the Celts are beyond
+  the pillars of Hercules, and border on the territories of the
+  Cynesians, who lie in the extremity of Europe to the westward;
+  and the Ister terminates by flowing through all Europe into the
+  Euxine Sea, where a Milesian colony is settled in Istria.  Now
+  the Ister, as it flows through a well-peopled country, is generally
+  known; but no one is able to speak about the sources of the Nile,
+  because Libya, through which it flows, is uninhabited and desolate.
+  Respecting this stream, therefore, as far as I was able to reach by
+  inquiry, I have already spoken.  It however discharges itself into
+  Egypt; and Egypt lies, as near as may be, opposite to the
+  mountains of Cilicia; from whence to Sinope, on the Euxine Sea,
+  is a five days' journey in a straight line to an active man; and
+  Sinope is opposite to the Ister, where it discharges itself into
+  the sea.  So I think that the Nile, traversing the whole of Libya,
+  may be properly compared with the Ister.  Such, then, is the
+  account that I am able to give respecting the Nile.
+  *** <end of Herodotus's account) ***
+
+2. Webb's River must be traced to its connection with some portion of
+the old Nile.
+
+When these two things have been accomplished, then, and not till then,
+can the mystery of the Nile be explained. The two countries through
+which the marvellous lacustrine river, the Lualaba, flows, with its
+manifold lakes and broad expanse of water, are Rua (the Uruwwa of Speke)
+and Manyuema. For the first time Europe is made aware that between
+the Tanganika and the known sources of the Congo there exist teeming
+millions of the negro race, who never saw, or heard of the white people
+who make such a noisy and busy stir outside of Africa. Upon the minds
+of those who had the good fortune to see the first specimen of these
+remarkable white races in Dr. Livingstone, he seems to have made a
+favourable impression, though, through misunderstanding his object, and
+coupling him with the Arabs, who make horrible work there, his life
+was sought after more than once. These two extensive countries, Rua
+and Manyuema, are populated by true heathens, governed, not as the
+sovereignties of Karagwah, Urundi, and Uganda, by despotic kings, but
+each village by its own sultan or lord. Thirty miles outside of their
+own immediate settlements, the most intelligent of these small chiefs
+seem to know nothing. Thirty miles from the Lualaba, there were but few
+people who had ever heard of the great river. Such ignorance among
+the natives of their own country naturally increased the labours of
+Livingstone. Compared with these, all tribes and nations in Africa with
+whom Livingstone came in contact may be deemed civilized, yet, in
+the arts of home manufacture, these wild people of Manyuema were far
+superior to any he had seen. Where other tribes and nations contented
+themselves with hides and skins of animals thrown negligently over their
+shoulders, the people of Manyuema manufactured a cloth from fine grass,
+which may favorably compare with the finest grass cloth of India. They
+also know the art of dyeing them in various colours--black, yellow,
+and purple. The Wangwana, or freed-men of Zanzibar, struck with the
+beauty of the fabric, eagerly exchange their cotton cloths for fine
+grass cloth; and on almost every black man from Manyuema I have seen
+this native cloth converted into elegantly made damirs (Arabic)--short
+jackets. These countries are also very rich in ivory. The fever for
+going to Manyuema to exchange tawdry beads for its precious tusks is
+of the same kind as that which impelled men to go to the gulches and
+placers of California, Colorado, Montana, and Idaho; after nuggets to
+Australia, and diamonds to Cape Colony. Manyuema is at present the El
+Dorado of the Arab and the Wamrima tribes. It is only about four years
+since that the first Arab returned from Manyuema, with such wealth of
+ivory, and reports about the fabulous quantities found there, that ever
+since the old beaten tracks of Karagwah, Uganda, Ufipa, and Marungu have
+been comparatively deserted. The people of Manyuema, ignorant of the
+value of the precious article, reared their huts upon ivory stanchions.
+Ivory pillars were common sights in Manyuema, and, hearing of these, one
+can no longer, wonder at the ivory palace of Solomon. For generations
+they have used ivory tusks as door-posts and supports to the eaves,
+until they had become perfectly rotten and worthless. But the advent of
+the Arabs soon taught them the value of the article. It has now risen
+considerably in price, though still fabulously cheap. At Zanzibar
+the value of ivory per frasilah of 35 lbs. weight is from $50 to $60,
+according to its quality. In Unyanyembe it is about $1-10 per pound, but
+in Manyuema, it may be purchased for from half a cent to 14 cent's worth
+of copper per pound of ivory. The Arabs, however, have the knack of
+spoiling markets by their rapacity and cruelty. With muskets, a small
+party of Arabs is invincible against such people as those of Manyuema,
+who, until lately, never heard the sound of a gun. The discharge of a
+musket inspires mortal terror in them, and it is almost impossible to
+induce them to face the muzzle of a gun. They believe that the Arabs
+have stolen the lightning, and that against such people the bow and
+arrow can have little effect. They are by no means devoid of courage,
+and they have often declared that, were it not for the guns, not one
+Arab would leave the country alive; this tends to prove that they would
+willingly engage in fight with the strangers who had made themselves
+so detestable, were it not that the startling explosion of gunpowder
+inspires them with terror.
+
+Into what country soever the Arabs enter, they contrive to render their
+name and race abominated. But the mainspring of it all is not the Arab's
+nature, colour, or name, but simply the slave-trade. So long as the
+slave-trade is permitted to be kept up at Zanzibar, so long will these
+otherwise enterprising people, the Arabs, kindle gainst them the hatred
+of the natives throughout Africa.
+
+On the main line of travel from Zanzibar into the interior of Africa
+these acts of cruelty are unknown, for the very good reason that
+the natives having been armed with guns, and taught how to use those
+weapons, are by no means loth to do so whenever an opportunity presents
+itself. When, too late, they have perceived their folly in selling guns
+to the natives, the Arabs now begin to vow vengeance on the person who
+will in future sell a gun to a native. But they are all guilty of the
+same mistake, and it is strange they did not perceive that it was folly
+when they were doing so.
+
+In former days the Arab, when protected by his slave escort, armed with
+guns, could travel through Useguhha, Urori, Ukonongo, Ufipa, Karagwah,
+Unyoro, and Uganda, with only a stick in his hand; now, however, it is
+impossible for him or any one else to do so. Every step he takes, armed
+or unarmed, is fraught with danger. The Waseguhha, near the coast,
+detain him, and demand the tribute, or give him the option of war;
+entering Ugogo, he is subjected every day to the same oppressive demand,
+or to the fearful alternative. The Wanyamwezi also show their readiness
+to take the same advantage; the road to Karagwah is besieged with
+difficulties; the terrible Mirambo stands in the way, defeats their
+combined forces with ease, and makes raids even to the doors of their
+houses in Unyanyembe; and should they succeed in passing Mirambo, a
+chief--Swaruru--stands before them who demands tribute by the bale, and
+against whom it is useless to contend.
+
+These remarks have reference to the slave-trade inaugurated in Manyuema
+by the Arabs. Harassed on the road between Zanzibar and Unyanyembe
+by minatory natives, who with bloody hands are ready to avenge the
+slightest affront, the Arabs have refrained from kidnapping between the
+Tanganika and the sea; but in Manyuema, where the natives are timid,
+irresolute, and divided into small weak tribes, they recover their
+audacity, and exercise their kidnapping propensities unchecked.
+
+The accounts which the Doctor brings from that new region are most
+deplorable. He was an unwilling spectator of a horrible deed--a massacre
+committed on the inhabitants of a populous district who had assembled
+in the market-place on the banks of the Lualaba, as they had been
+accustomed to do for ages. It seems that the Wamanyuema are very fond of
+marketing, believing it to be the summum bonum of human enjoyment. They
+find endless pleasure in chaffering with might and main for the least
+mite of their currency--the last bead; and when they gain the point to
+which their peculiar talents are devoted, they feel intensely happy.
+The women are excessively fond of this marketing, and, as they are very
+beautiful, the market place must possess considerable attractions for
+the male sex. It was on such a day amidst such a scene, that Tagamoyo,
+a half-caste Arab, with his armed slave escort, commenced an
+indiscriminate massacre by firing volley after volley into the dense
+mass of human beings. It is supposed that there were about 2,000
+present, and at the first sound of the firing these poor people all made
+a rush for their canoes. In the fearful hurry to avoid being shot, the
+canoes were paddled away by the first fortunate few who got possession
+of them; those that were not so fortunate sprang into the deep waters
+of the Lualaba, and though many of them became an easy prey to the
+voracious crocodiles which swarmed to the scene, the majority received
+their deaths from the bullets of the merciless Tagamoyo and his
+villanous band. The Doctor believes, as do the Arabs themselves, that
+about 400 people, mostly women and children, lost their lives, while
+many more were made slaves. This outrage is only one of many such he has
+unwillingly witnessed, and he is utterly unable to describe the feelings
+of loathing he feels for the inhuman perpetrators.
+
+Slaves from Manyuema command a higher price than those of any other
+country, because of their fine forms and general docility. The women,
+the Doctor said repeatedly, are remarkably pretty creatures, and have
+nothing, except the hair, in common with the negroes of the West
+Coast. They are of very light colour, have fine noses, well-cut and not
+over-full lips, while the prognathous jaw is uncommon. These women are
+eagerly sought after as wives by the half-castes of the East Coast, and
+even the pure Omani Arabs do not disdain to take them in marriage.
+
+To the north of Manyuema, Livingstone came to the light-complexioned
+race, of the colour of Portuguese, or our own Louisiana quadroons,
+who are very fine people, and singularly remarkable for commercial
+"'cuteness" and sagacity. The women are expert divers for oysters, which
+are found in great abundance in the Lualaba.
+
+Rua, at a place called Katanga, is rich in copper. The copper-mines of
+this place have been worked for ages. In the bed of a stream, gold has
+been found, washed down in pencil-shaped pieces or in particles as large
+as split peas. Two Arabs have gone thither to prospect for this metal;
+but, as they are ignorant of the art of gulch-mining, it is scarcely
+possible that they will succeed. From these highly important and
+interesting discoveries, Dr. Livingstone was turned back, when almost
+on the threshold of success, by the positive refusal of his men to
+accompany him further. They were afraid to go on unless accompanied by
+a large force of men; and, as these were not procurable in Manyuema, the
+Doctor reluctantly turned his face towards Ujiji.
+
+It was a long and weary road back. The journey had now no interest for
+him. He had travelled the road before when going westward, full of high
+hopes and aspirations, impatient to reach the goal which promised
+him rest from his labors--now, returning unsuccessful, baffled, and
+thwarted, when almost in sight of the end, and having to travel the same
+path back on foot, with disappointed expectations and defeated hopes
+preying on his mind, no wonder that the old brave spirit almost
+succumbed, and the strong constitution almost went to wreck.
+
+Livingstone arrived at Ujiji, October 16th, almost at death's door. On
+the way he had been trying to cheer himself up, since he had found it
+impossible to contend against the obstinacy of his men, with, "It won't
+take long; five or six months more; it matters not since it cannot be
+helped. I have got my goods in Ujiji, and can hire other people, and
+make a new start again." These are the words and hopes by which he tried
+to delude himself into the idea that all would be right yet; but imagine
+the shock he must have suffered, when he found that the man to whom was
+entrusted his goods for safe keeping had sold every bale for ivory.
+
+The evening of the day Livingstone had returned to Ujiji, Susi and
+Chuma, two of his most faithful men, were seen crying bitterly. The
+Doctor asked of them what ailed them, and was then informed, for the
+first time, of the evil tidings that awaited him.
+
+Said they, "All our things are sold, sir; Sherif has sold everything for
+ivory."
+
+Later in the evening, Sherif came to see him, and shamelessly offered
+his hand, but Livingstone repulsed him, saying he could not shake hands
+with a thief. As an excuse, Sherif said he had divined on the Koran, and
+that this had told him the Hakim (Arabic for Doctor) was dead.
+
+Livingstone was now destitute; he had just enough to keep him and his
+men alive for about a month, when he would be forced to beg from the
+Arabs.
+
+The Doctor further stated, that when Speke gives the altitude of the
+Tanganika at only 1,800 feet above the sea, Speke must have fallen into
+that error by a frequent writing of the Anne Domini, a mere slip of
+the pen; for the altitude, as he makes it out, is 2,800 feet by boiling
+point, and a little over 3,000 feet by barometer.
+
+The Doctor's complaints were many because slaves were sent to him, in
+charge of goods, after he had so often implored the people at Zanzibar
+to send him freemen. A very little effort on the part of those entrusted
+with the despatch of supplies to him might have enabled them to procure
+good and faithful freemen; but if they contented themselves, upon the
+receipt of a letter from Dr. Livingstone, with sending to Ludha Damji
+for men, it is no longer a matter of wonder that dishonest and incapable
+slaves were sent forward. It is no new fact that the Doctor has
+discovered when he states that a negro freeman is a hundred times
+more capable and trustworthy than a slave. Centuries ago Eumaeus, the
+herdsman, said to Ulysses:
+
+Jove fixed it certain, that whatever day Makes man a slave, takes half
+his worth away.
+
+We passed several happy days at Ujiji, and it was time we were now
+preparing for our cruise on the Tanganika. Livingstone was improving
+every day under the different diet which my cook furnished him. I could
+give him no such suppers as that which Jupiter and Mercury received at
+the cottage of Baucis and Philemon. We had no berries of chaste Minerva,
+pickled cherries, endive, radishes, dried figs, dates, fragrant apples,
+and grapes; but we had cheese, and butter which I made myself, new-laid
+eggs, chickens, roast mutton, fish from the lake, rich curds and cream,
+wine from the Guinea-palm, egg-plants, cucumbers, sweet potatoes,
+pea-nuts, and beans, white honey from Ukaranga, luscious singwe--a
+plum-like fruit--from the forests of Ujiji, and corn scones and dampers,
+in place of wheaten bread.
+
+During the noontide heats we sat under our veranda discussing our
+various projects, and in the early morning and evening we sought the
+shores of the lake--promenading up and down the beach to breathe the
+cool breezes which ruffled the surface of the water, and rolled the
+unquiet surf far up on the smooth and whitened shore.
+
+It was the dry season, and we had most lovely weather; the temperature
+never was over 80 degrees in the shade.
+
+The market-place overlooking the broad silver water afforded us
+amusement and instruction. Representatives of most of the tribes
+dwelling near the lake were daily found there. There were the
+agricultural and pastoral Wajiji, with their flocks and herds; there
+were the fishermen from Ukaranga and Kaole, from beyond Bangwe, and
+even from Urundi, with their whitebait, which they called dogara, the
+silurus, the perch, and other fish; there were the palm-oil merchants,
+principally from Ujiji and Urundi, with great five-gallon pots full of
+reddish oil, of the consistency of butter; there were the salt merchants
+from the salt-plains of Uvinza and Uhha; there were the ivory merchants
+from Uvira and Usowa; there were the canoe-makers from Ugoma and Urundi;
+there were the cheap-Jack pedlers from Zanzibar, selling flimsy prints,
+and brokers exchanging blue mutunda beads for sami-sami, and sungomazzi,
+and sofi. The sofi beads are like pieces of thick clay-pipe stem
+about half an inch long, and are in great demand here. Here were found
+Waguhha, Wamanyuema, Wagoma, Wavira, Wasige, Warundi, Wajiji, Waha,
+Wavinza, Wasowa, Wangwana, Wakawendi, Arabs, and Wasawahili, engaged in
+noisy chaffer and barter. Bareheaded, and almost barebodied, the youths
+made love to the dark-skinned and woolly-headed Phyllises, who knew not
+how to blush at the ardent gaze of love, as their white sisters; old
+matrons gossiped, as the old women do everywhere; the children played,
+and laughed, and struggled, as children of our own lands; and the old
+men, leaning on their spears or bows, were just as garrulous in the
+Place de Ujiji as aged elders in other climes.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII. -- OUR CRUISE ON THE LAKE TANGANIKA--EXPLORATION OF THE
+NORTH-END OF THE LAKE-- THE RUSIZI IS DISCOVERED TO ENTER INTO THE
+LAKE--RETURN TO UJIJI.
+
+"I distinctly deny that 'any misleading by my instructions from the
+Royal Geographical Society as to the position of the White Nile' made me
+unconscious of the vast importance of ascertaining the direction of
+the Rusizi River. The fact is, we did our best to reach it, and we
+failed."--Burton's Zanzibar.
+
+"The universal testimony of the natives to the Rusizi River being an
+influent is the most conclusive argument that it does run out of the
+lake."--Speke.
+
+"I therefore claim for Lake Tanganika the honour of being the
+SOUTHERNMOST RESERVOIR OF THE NILE, until some more positive evidence,
+by actual observation, shall otherwise determine it."--Findlay, R.G.S.
+
+
+Had Livingstone and myself, after making up our minds to visit the
+northern head of the Lake Tanganika, been compelled by the absurd
+demands or fears of a crew of Wajiji to return to Unyanyembe without
+having resolved the problem of the Rusizi River, we had surely deserved
+to be greeted by everybody at home with a universal giggling and
+cackling. But Capt. Burton's failure to settle it, by engaging Wajiji,
+and that ridiculous savage chief Kannena, had warned us of the negative
+assistance we could expect from such people for the solution of a
+geographical problem. We had enough good sailors with us, who were
+entirely under our commands. Could we but procure the loan of a canoe,
+we thought all might be well.
+
+Upon application to Sayd bin Majid, he at once generously permitted us
+to use his canoe for any service for which we might require it. After
+engaging two Wajiji guides at two doti each, we prepared to sail from
+the port of Ujiji, in about a week or so after my entrance into Ujiji.
+
+I have already stated how it was that the Doctor and I undertook the
+exploration of the northern half of the Tanganika and the River Rusizi,
+about which so much had been said and written.
+
+Before embarking on this enterprise, Dr. Livingstone had not definitely
+made up his mind which course he should take, as his position was truly
+deplorable. His servants consisted of Susi, Chumah, Hamoydah, Gardner,
+and Halimah, the female cook and wife of Hamoydah; to these was added
+Kaif-Halek, the man whom I compelled to follow me from Unyanyembe to
+deliver the Livingstone letters to his master.
+
+Whither could Dr. Livingstone march with these few men, and the few
+table-cloths and beads that remained to him from the store squandered by
+the imbecile Sherif? This was a puzzling question. Had Dr. Livingstone
+been in good health, his usual hardihood and indomitable spirit had
+answered it in a summary way. He might have borrowed some cloth from
+Sayd bin Majid at an exorbitant price, sufficient to bring him to
+Unyanyembe and the sea-coast. But how long would he have been compelled
+to sit down at Ujiji, waiting and waiting for the goods that were said
+to be at Unyanyembe, a prey to high expectations, hoping day after day
+that the war would end--hoping week after week to hear that his goods
+were coming? Who knows how long his weak health had borne up against the
+several disappointments to which he would be subjected?
+
+Though it was with all due deference to Dr. Livingstone's vast
+experience as a traveller, I made bold to suggest the following courses
+to him, either of which he could adopt:
+
+Ist. To go home, and take the rest he so well deserved and, as he
+appeared then, to be so much in need of.
+
+2nd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his goods, and enlist pagazis
+sufficient to enable him to travel anywhere, either to Manyuema or
+Rua, and settle the Nile problem, which he said he was in a fair way of
+doing.
+
+3rd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, enlist men, and try
+to join Sir Samuel Baker, either by going to Muanza, and sailing through
+Ukerewe or Victoria N'Yanza in my boats--which I should put up--to
+Mtesa's palace at Uganda, thus passing by Mirambo and Swaruru of Usui,
+who would rob him if he took the usual caravan road to Uganda; thence
+from Mtesa to Kamrasi, King of Unyoro, where he would of course hear
+of the great white man who was said to be with a large force of men at
+Gondokoro.
+
+4th. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, enlist men, and
+return to Ujiji, and back to Manyuema by way of Uguhha.
+
+5th. To proceed by way of the Rusizi through Ruanda, and so on to Itara,
+Unyoro, and Baker.
+
+For either course, whichever he thought most expedient, I and my men
+would assist him as escort and carriers, to the best of our ability. If
+he should elect to go home, I informed him I should be proud to escort
+him, and consider myself subject to his commands--travelling only when
+he desired, and camping only when he gave the word.
+
+6th. The last course which I suggested to him, was to permit me to
+escort him to Unyanyembe, where he could receive his own goods, and
+where I could deliver up to him a large supply of first-class cloth and
+beads, guns and ammunition, cooking utensils, clothing, boats, tents,
+&c., and where he could rest in a comfortable house, while I would hurry
+down to the coast, organise a new expedition composed of fifty or sixty
+faithful men, well armed, by whom I could send an additional supply of
+needful luxuries in the shape of creature comforts.
+
+After long consideration, he resolved to adopt the last course, as it
+appeared to him to be the most feasible one, and the best, though he did
+not hesitate to comment upon the unaccountable apathy of his agent at
+Zanzibar, which had caused him so much trouble and vexation, and weary
+marching of hundreds of miles.
+
+Our ship--though nothing more than a cranky canoe hollowed out of
+a noble mvule tree of Ugoma--was an African Argo bound on a nobler
+enterprise than its famous Grecian prototype. We were bound upon no
+mercenary errand, after no Golden Fleece, but perhaps to discover a
+highway for commerce which should bring the ships of the Nile up to
+Ujiji, Usowa, and far Marungu. We did not know what we might discover
+on our voyage to the northern head of the Tanganika; we supposed that we
+should find the Rusizi to be an effluent of the Tanganika, flowing down
+to the Albert or the Victoria N'Yanza. We were told by natives and Arabs
+that the Rusizi ran out of the lake.
+
+Sayd bin Majid had stated that his canoe would carry twenty-five men,
+and 3,500 lbs. of ivory. Acting upon this information, we embarked
+twenty-five men, several of whom had stored away bags of salt for the
+purposes of trade with the natives; but upon pushing off from the shore
+near Ujiji, we discovered the boat was too heavily laden, and was down
+to the gunwale. Returning in-shore, we disembarked six men, and unloaded
+the bags of salt, which left us with sixteen rowers, Selim, Ferajji the
+cook, and the two Wajiji guides.
+
+Having thus properly trimmed our boat we again pushed off, and steered
+her head for Bangwe Island, which was distant four or five miles from
+the Bunder of Ujiji. While passing this island the guides informed us
+that the Arabs and Wajiji took shelter on it during an incursion of
+the Watuta--which took place some years ago--when they came and invaded
+Ujiji, and massacred several of the inhabitants. Those who took refuge
+on the island were the only persons who escaped the fire and sword with
+which the Watuta had visited Ujiji.
+
+After passing the island and following the various bends and
+indentations of the shore, we came in sight of the magnificent bay of
+Kigoma, which strikes one at once as being an excellent harbor from the
+variable winds which blow over the Tanganika. About 10 A.M. we drew in
+towards the village of Kigoma, as the east wind was then rising, and
+threatened to drive us to sea. With those travelling parties who are
+not in much hurry Kigoma is always the first port for canoes bound north
+from Ujiji. The next morning at dawn we struck tent, stowed baggage,
+cooked, and drank coffee, and set off northward again.
+
+The lake was quite calm; its waters, of a dark-green colour, reflected
+the serene blue sky above. The hippopotami came up to breathe in
+alarmingly close proximity to our canoe, and then plunged their heads
+again, as if they were playing hide-and-seek with us. Arriving opposite
+the high wooded hills of Bemba, and being a mile from shore, we thought
+it a good opportunity to sound the depth of the water, whose colour
+seemed to indicate great depth. We found thirty-five fathoms at this
+place.
+
+Our canoeing of this day was made close in-shore, with a range of hills,
+beautifully wooded and clothed with green grass, sloping abruptly,
+almost precipitously, into the depths of the fresh-water sea, towering
+immediately above us, and as we rounded the several capes or points,
+roused high expectations of some new wonder, or some exquisite picture
+being revealed as the deep folds disclosed themselves to us. Nor were
+we disappointed. The wooded hills with a wealth of boscage of beautiful
+trees, many of which were in bloom, and crowned with floral glory,
+exhaling an indescribably sweet fragrance, lifting their heads in varied
+contour--one pyramidal, another a truncated cone; one table-topped,
+another ridgy, like the steep roof of a church; one a glorious
+heave with an even outline, another jagged and savage-interested us
+considerably; and the pretty pictures, exquisitely pretty, at the head
+of the several bays, evoked many an exclamation of admiration.  It was
+the most natural thing in the world that I should feel deepest
+admiration for these successive pictures of quiet scenic beauty, but the
+Doctor had quite as much to say about them as I had myself, though, as
+one might imagine, satiated with pictures of this kind far more
+beautiful--far more wonderful--he should long ago have expended all his
+powers of admiring scenes in nature.
+
+From Bagamoyo to Ujiji I had seen nothing to compare to them--none
+of these fishing settlements under the shade of a grove of palms and
+plantains, banians and mimosa, with cassava gardens to the right and
+left of palmy forests, and patches of luxuriant grain looking down upon
+a quiet bay, whose calm waters at the early morn reflected the beauties
+of the hills which sheltered them from the rough and boisterous tempests
+that so often blew without.
+
+The fishermen evidently think themselves comfortably situated. The lake
+affords them all the fish they require, more than enough to eat, and
+the industrious a great deal to sell. The steep slopes of the hills,
+cultivated by the housewives, contribute plenty of grain, such as dourra
+and Indian corn, besides cassava, ground-nuts or peanuts, and sweet
+potatoes. The palm trees afford oil, and the plantains an abundance of
+delicious fruit. The ravines and deep gullies supply them with the tall
+shapely trees from which they cut out their canoes. Nature has supplied
+them bountifully with all that a man's heart or stomach can desire. It
+is while looking at what seems both externally and internally complete
+and perfect happiness that the thought occurs--how must these people
+sigh, when driven across the dreary wilderness that intervenes between
+the lake country and the sea-coast, for such homes as these!--those
+unfortunates who, bought by the Arabs for a couple of doti, are taken
+away to Zanzibar to pick cloves, or do hamal work!
+
+As we drew near Niasanga, our second camp, the comparison between the
+noble array of picturesque hills and receding coves, with their pastoral
+and agricultural scenes, and the shores of old Pontus, was very great.
+A few minutes before we hauled our canoe ashore, two little incidents
+occurred. I shot an enormous dog-faced monkey, which measured from nose
+to end of tail 4 feet 9 inches; the face was 8 1/2 inches long, its body
+weighed about 100 lbs. It had no mane or tuft at end of tail, but the
+body was covered with long wiry hair. Numbers of these specimens were
+seen, as well as of the active cat-headed and long-tailed smaller ones.
+The other was the sight of a large lizard, about 2 ft. 6 in. long, which
+waddled into cover before we had well noticed it. The Doctor thought it
+to be the Monitor terrestris.
+
+We encamped under a banian tree; our surroundings were the now
+light-grey waters of the Tanganika, an amphitheatral range of hills, and
+the village of Niasanga, situated at the mouth of the rivulet Niasanga,
+with its grove of palms, thicket of plantains, and plots of grain and
+cassava fields. Near our tent were about half-a-dozen canoes, large and
+small, belonging to the villagers. Our tent door fronted the glorious
+expanse of fresh water, inviting the breeze, and the views of distant
+Ugoma and Ukaramba, and the Island of Muzimu, whose ridges appeared of
+a deep-blue colour. At our feet were the clean and well-washed pebbles,
+borne upward into tiny lines and heaps by the restless surf. A search
+amongst these would reveal to us the material of the mountain heaps
+which rose behind and on our right and left; there was schist,
+conglomerate sandstone, a hard white clay, an ochreish clay containing
+much iron, polished quartz, &c. Looking out of our tent, we could see a
+line on each side of us of thick tall reeds, which form something like
+a hedge between the beach and the cultivated area around Niasanga.
+Among birds seen here, the most noted were the merry wagtails, which are
+regarded as good omens and messengers of peace by the natives, and any
+harm done unto them is quickly resented, and is fineable. Except to the
+mischievously inclined, they offer no inducement to commit violence. On
+landing, they flew to meet us, balancing themselves in the air in
+front, within easy reach of our hands. The other birds were crows,
+turtle-doves, fish-hawks, kingfishers, ibis nigra and ibis religiosa,
+flocks of whydah birds, geese, darters, paddy birds, kites, and eagles.
+
+At this place the Doctor suffered from dysentery--it is his only weak
+point, he says; and, as I afterwards found, it is a frequent complaint
+with him. Whatever disturbed his mind, or any irregularity in eating,
+was sure to end in an attack of dysentery, which had lately become of a
+chronic character.
+
+The third day of our journey on the Tanganika brought us to Zassi
+River and village, after a four hours' pull. Along the line of road
+the mountains rose 2,000 and 2,500 feet above the waters of the lake.
+I imagined the scenery getting more picturesque and animated at every
+step, and thought it by far lovelier than anything seen near Lake George
+or on the Hudson. The cosy nooks at the head of the many small bays
+constitute most admirable pictures, filled in as they are with the
+ever-beautiful feathery palms and broad green plantain fronds. These
+nooks have all been taken possession of by fishermen, and their
+conically beehive-shaped huts always peep from under the frondage. The
+shores are thus extremely populous; every terrace, small plateau, and
+bit of level ground is occupied.
+
+Zassi is easily known by a group of conical hills which rise near by,
+and are called Kirassa. Opposite to these, at the distance of about a
+mile from shore, we sounded, and obtained 35 fathoms, as on the previous
+day. Getting out a mile further, I let go the whole length of my line,
+115 fathoms, and obtained no bottom. In drawing it up again the line
+parted, and I lost the lead, with three-fourths of the line. The Doctor
+stated, apropos of this, that he had sounded opposite the lofty Kabogo,
+south of Ujiji, and obtained the great depth of 300 fathoms. He also
+lost his lead and 100 fathoms of his line, but he had nearly 900 fathoms
+left, and this was in the canoes. We hope to use this long sounding line
+in going across from the eastern to the western shore.
+
+On the fourth day we arrived at Nyabigma, a sandy island in Urundi.
+We had passed the boundary line between Ujiji and Urundi half-an-hour
+before arriving at Nyabigma. The Mshala River is considered by both
+nations to be the proper divisional line; though there are parties of
+Warundi who have emigrated beyond the frontier into Ujiji; for instance,
+the Mutware and villagers of populous Kagunga, distant an hour north
+from Zassi. There are also several small parties of Wajiji, who
+have taken advantage of the fine lands in the deltas of the Kasokwe,
+Namusinga, and Luaba Rivers, the two first of which enter the Tanganika
+in this bay, near the head of which Nyabigma is situated.
+
+From Nyabigma, a pretty good view of the deep curve in the great
+mountain range which stretches from Cape Kazinga and terminates at Cape
+Kasofu, may be obtained--a distance of twenty or twenty-five miles. It
+is a most imposing scene, this great humpy, ridgy, and irregular line
+of mountains. Deep ravines and chasms afford outlets to the numerous
+streams and rivers which take their rise in the background; the pale
+fleecy ether almost always shrouds its summit. From its base extends a
+broad alluvial plain, rich beyond description, teeming with palms
+and plantains, and umbrageous trees. Villages are seen in clusters
+everywhere. Into this alluvial plain run the Luaba, or Ruaba River, on
+the north side of Cape Kitunda, and the Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Mshala
+Rivers, on the south side of the cape. All the deltas of rivers emptying
+into the Tanganika are hedged in on all sides with a thick growth of
+matete, a gigantic species of grass, and papyrus. In some deltas, as
+that of Luaba and Kasokwe, morasses have been formed, in which the
+matete and papyrus jungle is impenetrable. In the depths of them are
+quiet and deep pools, frequented by various aquatic birds, such as
+geese, ducks, snipes, widgeons, kingfishers and ibis, cranes and
+storks, and pelicans. To reach their haunts is, however, a work of great
+difficulty to the sportsman in quest of game; a work often attended with
+great danger, from the treacherous nature of these morasses, as well as
+from the dreadful attacks of fever which, in these regions, invariably
+follow wet feet and wet clothes.
+
+At Nyabigma we prepared, by distributing ten rounds of ammunition to
+each of our men, for a tussle with the Warundi of two stages ahead,
+should they invite it by a too forward exhibition of their prejudice to
+strangers.
+
+At dawn of the fifth day we quitted the haven of Nyabigma Island, and
+in less than an hour had arrived off Cape Kitunda. This cape is a low
+platform of conglomerate sandstone, extending for about eight miles from
+the base of the great mountain curve which gives birth to the Luaba and
+its sister streams. Crossing the deep bay, at the head of which is the
+delta of the Luaba, we came to Cape Kasofu. Villages are numerous in
+this vicinity. From hence we obtained a view of a series of points or
+capes, Kigongo, Katunga, and Buguluka, all of which we passed before
+coming to a halt at the pretty position of Mukungu.
+
+At Mukungu, where we stopped on the fifth day, we were asked for honga,
+or tribute. The cloth and beads upon which we subsisted during our
+lake voyage were mine, but the Doctor, being the elder of the two,
+more experienced, and the "big man" of the party, had the charge of
+satisfying all such demands. Many and many a time had I gone through the
+tedious and soul-wearying task of settling the honga, and I was quite
+curious to see how the great traveller would perform the work.
+
+The Mateko (a man inferior to a Mutware) of Mukungu asked for two and a
+half doti. This was the extent of the demand, which he made known to us
+a little after dark. The Doctor asked if nothing had been brought to us.
+He was answered, "No, it was too late to get anything now; but, if we
+paid the honga, the Mateko would be ready to give us something when we
+came back." Livingstone, upon hearing this, smiled, and the Mateko being
+then and there in front of him, he said to him. "Well, if you can't get
+us anything now, and intend to give something when we return, we had
+better keep the honga until then." The Mateko was rather taken aback
+at this, and demurred to any such proposition. Seeing that he was
+dissatisfied, we urged him to bring one sheep--one little sheep--for our
+stomachs were nearly empty, having been waiting more than half a day for
+it. The appeal was successful, for the old man hastened, and brought us
+a lamb and a three-gallon pot of sweet but strong zogga, or palm toddy,
+and in return the Doctor gave him two and a half doti of cloth. The lamb
+was killed, and, our digestions being good, its flesh agreed with us;
+but, alas, for the effects of zogga, or palm toddy! Susi, the invaluable
+adjunct of Dr. Livingstone, and Bombay, the headman of my caravan, were
+the two charged with watching the canoe; but, having imbibed too freely
+of this intoxicating toddy, they slept heavily, and in the morning
+the Doctor and I had to regret the loss of several valuable and
+indispensable things; among which may be mentioned the Doctor's
+900-fathom sounding-line, 500 rounds of pin, rim, and central-fire
+cartridges for my arms, and ninety musket bullets, also belonging to me.
+Besides these, which were indispensable in hostile Warundi, a large bag
+of flour and the Doctor's entire stock of white sugar were stolen. This
+was the third time that my reliance in Bombay's trustworthiness resulted
+in a great loss to me, and for the ninety-ninth time I had to
+regret bitterly having placed such entire confidence in Speke's loud
+commendation of him. It was only the natural cowardice of ignorant
+thieves that prevented the savages from taking the boat and its entire
+contents, together with Bombay and Susi as slaves. I can well imagine
+the joyful surprise which must have been called forth at the sight and
+exquisite taste of the Doctor's sugar, and the wonder with which they
+must have regarded the strange ammunition of the Wasungu. It is to be
+sincerely hoped that they did not hurt themselves with the explosive
+bullets and rim cartridges through any ignorance of the nature of the
+deadly contents; in which ease the box and its contents would prove a
+very Pandora's casket.
+
+Much grieved at our loss, we set off on the sixth day at the usual hour
+on our watery journey. We coasted close to the several low headlands
+formed by the rivers Kigwena, Kikuma, and Kisunwe; and when any
+bay promised to be interesting, steered the canoe according to its
+indentations. While travelling on the water--each day brought forth
+similar scenes--on our right rose the mountains of Urundi, now and then
+disclosing the ravines through which the several rivers and streams
+issued into the great lake; at their base were the alluvial plains,
+where flourished the oil-palm and grateful plantain, while scores of
+villages were grouped under their shade. Now and then we passed long
+narrow strips of pebbly or sandy beach, whereon markets were improvised
+for selling fish, and the staple products of the respective communities.
+Then we passed broad swampy morasses, formed by the numerous streams
+which the mountains discharged, where the matete and papyrus flourished.
+Now the mountains approached to the water, their sides descending
+abruptly to the water's edge; then they receded into deep folds, at the
+base of which was sure to be seen an alluvial plain from one to
+eight miles broad. Almost constantly we observed canoes being punted
+vigorously close to the surf, in fearless defiance of a catastrophe,
+such as a capsize and gobbling-up by voracious crocodiles. Sometimes we
+sighted a canoe a short distance ahead of us; whereupon our men, with
+song and chorus, would exert themselves to the utmost to overtake it.
+Upon observing our efforts, the natives would bend themselves to
+their tasks, and paddling standing and stark naked, give us ample
+opportunities for studying at our leisure comparative anatomy. Or we
+saw a group of fishermen lazily reclining in _puris naturalibus_ on
+the beach, regarding with curious eye the canoes as they passed their
+neighbourhood; then we passed a flotilla of canoes, their owners sitting
+quietly in their huts, busily plying the rod and hook, or casting their
+nets, or a couple of men arranging their long drag nets close in shore
+for a haul; or children sporting fearlessly in the water, with their
+mothers looking on approvingly from under the shade of a tree, from
+which I infer that there are not many crocodiles in the lake, except in
+the neighbourhood of the large rivers.
+
+After passing the low headland of Kisunwe, formed by the Kisunwe River,
+we came in view of Murembwe Cape, distant about four or five miles: the
+intervening ground being low land, a sandy and pebbly beach. Close to
+the beach are scores of villages, while the crowded shore indicates the
+populousness of the place beyond. About half way between Cape Kisunwe
+and Murembwe, is a cluster of villages called Bikari, which has a
+mutware who is in the habit of taking honga. As we were rendered
+unable to cope for any length of time with any mischievously inclined
+community, all villages having a bad reputation with the Wajiji were
+avoided by us. But even the Wajiji guides were sometimes mistaken, and
+led us more than once into dangerous places. The guides evidently had
+no objections to halt at Bikari, as it was the second camp from Mukungu;
+because with them a halt in the cool shade of plaintains was infinitely
+preferable to sitting like carved pieces of wood in a cranky canoe. But
+before they stated their objections and preferences, the Bikari people
+called to us in a loud voice to come ashore, threatening us with the
+vengeance of the great Wami if we did not halt. As the voices were
+anything but siren-like, we obstinately refused to accede to the
+request. Finding threats of no avail, they had recourse to stones,
+and, accordingly, flung them at us in a most hearty manner. As one came
+within a foot of my arm, I suggested that a bullet be sent in return in
+close proximity to their feet; but Livingstone, though he said nothing,
+yet showed plainly enough that he did not quite approve of this. As
+these demonstrations of hostility were anything but welcome, and as we
+saw signs of it almost every time we came opposite a village, we kept on
+our way until we came to Murembwe Point, which, being a delta of a river
+of the same name, was well protected by a breadth of thorny jungle,
+spiky cane, and a thick growth of reed and papyrus, from which the
+boldest Mrundi might well shrink, especially if he called to mind that
+beyond this inhospitable swamp were the guns of the strangers his like
+had so rudely challenged. We drew our canoe ashore here, and, on a
+limited area of clean sand, Ferajji, our rough-and-ready cook, lit his
+fire, and manufactured for us a supply of most delicious Mocha coffee.
+Despite the dangers which still beset us, we were quite happy, and
+seasoned our meal with a little moral philosophy, which lifted us
+unconsciously into infinitely superior beings to the pagans by whom we
+were surrounded--upon whom we now looked down, under the influence of
+Mocha coffee and moral philosophy, with calm contempt, not unmixed with
+a certain amount of compassion. The Doctor related some experiences he
+had had among people of similar disposition, but did not fail to ascribe
+them, with the wisdom of a man of ripe experiences, to the unwise
+conduct of the Arabs and half-castes; in this opinion I unreservedly
+concur.
+
+From Murembwe Point, having finished our coffee and ended our discourse
+on ethics, we proceeded on our voyage, steering for Cape Sentakeyi,
+which, though it was eight or ten miles away, we hoped to make before
+dark. The Wangwana pulled with right good will, but ten hours went by,
+and night was drawing near, and we were still far from Sentakeyi. As
+it was a fine moonlight night, and we were fully alive to the dangerous
+position in which we might find ourselves, they consented to pull
+an hour or two more. About 1 P.M., we pulled in shore for a deserted
+spot--a clean shelf of sand, about thirty feet long by ten deep, from
+which a clay bank rose about ten or twelve feet above, while on each
+side there were masses of disintegrated rock. Here we thought, that
+by preserving some degree of silence, we might escape observation, and
+consequent annoyance, for a few hours, when, being rested, we might
+continue our journey. Our kettle was boiling for tea, and the men had
+built a little fire for themselves, and had filled their black earthen
+pot with water for porridge, when our look-outs perceived dark forms
+creeping towards our bivouac. Being hailed, they at once came forward,
+and saluted us with the native "Wake." Our guides explained that we were
+Wangwana, and intended to camp until morning, when, if they had anything
+to sell, we should be glad to trade with them. They said they were
+rejoiced to hear this, and after they had exchanged a few words
+more--during which time we observed that they were taking mental notes
+of the camp--they went away. Upon leaving, they promised to return in
+the morning with food, and make friends with us. While drinking our tea,
+the look-outs warned us of the approach of a second party, which went
+through the same process of saluting and observing as the first had
+done. These also went away, over-exuberant, as I thought, and were
+shortly succeeded by a third party, who came and went as the others had.
+From all this we inferred that the news was spreading rapidly through
+the villages about, and we had noticed two canoes passing backwards and
+forwards with rather more haste than we deemed usual or necessary. We
+had good cause to be suspicious; it is not customary for people (at
+least, between Ujiji and Zanzibar) to be about visiting and saluting
+after dark, under any pretence; it is not permitted to persons to prowl
+about camp after dark without being shot at; and this going backward and
+forward, this ostentatious exuberance of joy at the arrival of a small
+party of Wangwana, which in many parts of Urundi would be regarded as a
+very common event, was altogether very suspicious. While the Doctor and
+I were arriving at the conclusion that these movements were preliminary
+to or significant of hostility, a fourth body, very boisterous and loud,
+came and visited us. Our supper had been by this time despatched, and
+we thought it high time to act. The fourth party having gone with
+extravagant manifestations of delight, the men were hurried into the
+canoe, and, when all were seated, and the look-outs embarked, we quietly
+pushed off, but not a moment too soon. As the canoe was gliding from the
+darkened light that surrounded us, I called the Doctor's attention to
+several dark forms; some of whom were crouching behind the rocks on
+our right, and others scrambling over them to obtain good or better
+positions; at the same time people were approaching from the left of
+our position, in the same suspicious way; and directly a voice hailed us
+from the top of the clay bank overhanging the sandy shelf where we
+had lately been resting. "Neatly done," cried the Doctor, as we were
+shooting through the water, leaving the discomfited would-be robbers
+behind us. Here, again, my hand was stayed from planting a couple of
+good shots, as a warning to them in future from molesting strangers, by
+the more presence of the Doctor, who, as I thought, if it were actually
+necessary, would not hesitate to give the word.
+
+After pulling six hours more, during which we had rounded Cape
+Sentakeyi, we stopped at the small fishing village of Mugeyo, where we
+were permitted to sleep unmolested. At dawn we continued our journey,
+and about 8 A.M. arrived at the village of the friendly Mutware of
+Magala. We had pulled for eighteen hours at a stretch, which, at the
+rate of two miles and a half per hour, would make forty-five miles.
+Taking bearings from our camp at Cape Magala, one of the most prominent
+points in travelling north from Ujiji, we found that the large island
+of Muzimu, which had been in sight ever since rounding Cape Bangwe, near
+Ujiji Bunder, bore about south-south-west, and that the western shore
+had considerably approached to the eastern; the breadth of the lake
+being at this point about eight or ten miles. We had a good view of the
+western highlands, which seemed to be of an average height, about 3,000
+feet above the lake. Luhanga Peak, rising a little to the north of west
+from Magala, might be about 500 feet higher; and Sumburizi, a little
+north of Luhanga, where lived Mruta, Sultan of Uvira, the country
+opposite to this part of Urundi, about 300 feet higher than the
+neighbouring heights. Northward from Magala Cape the lake streamed away
+between two chains of mountains; both meeting in a point about thirty
+miles north of us.
+
+The Warundi of Magala were very civil, and profound starers. They
+flocked around the tent door, and most pertinaciously gazed on us, as
+if we were subjects of most intense interest, but liable to sudden and
+eternal departure. The Mutware came to see us late in the afternoon,
+dressed with great pomp. He turned out to be a boy whom I had noticed in
+the crowd of gazers for his good looks and fine teeth, which he showed,
+being addicted to laughing continually. There was no mistaking him,
+though he was now decorated with many ivory ornaments, with necklaces,
+and with heavy brass bracelets and iron wire anklets. Our admiration
+of him was reciprocated; and, in return for our two doti of cloth and a
+fundo of samsam, he gave a fine fat and broad-tailed sheep, and a pot of
+milk. In our condition both were extremely acceptable.
+
+At Magala we heard of a war raging between Mukamba, for whose country we
+were bound, and Warumashanya, a Sultan of an adjoining district; and
+we were advised that, unless we intended to assist one of these chiefs
+against the other, it would be better for us to return. But, as we had
+started to solve the problem of the Rusizi River, such considerations
+had no weight with us.
+
+On the eighth morning from leaving Ujiji we bade farewell to the
+hospitable people of Magala, and set off for Mukamba's country, which
+was in view. Soon after passing the boundary between Urundi proper,
+and what is known as Usige, a storm from the south-west arose; and
+the fearful yawing of our canoe into the wave trough warned us from
+proceeding further; so we turned her head for Kisuka village, about four
+miles north, where Mugere, in Usige, begins.
+
+At Kisuka a Mgwana living with Mukamba came to see us, and gave us
+details of the war between Mukamba and Warumashanya, from which it
+seemed that these two chiefs were continually at loggerheads. It is a
+tame way of fighting, after all. One chief makes a raid into the other's
+country, and succeeds in making off with a herd of cattle, killing one
+or two men who have been surprised. Weeks, or perhaps months elapse
+before the other retaliates, and effects a capture in a similar way, and
+then a balance is struck in which neither is the gainer. Seldom do they
+attack each other with courage and hearty goodwill, the constitution of
+the African being decidedly against any such energetic warfare.
+
+This Mgwana, further, upon being questioned, gave us information far
+more interesting, viz., about the Rusizi. He told us positively, with
+the air of a man who knew all about it, and as if anybody who doubted
+him might well be set down as an egregious ass, that the Rusizi River
+flowed out of the lake, away to Suna's (Mtesa's) country. "Where else
+could it flow to?" he asked. The Doctor was inclined to believe it, or,
+perhaps he was more inclined to let it rest as stated until our own eyes
+should confirm it. I was more inclined to doubt, as I told the
+Doctor; first, it was too good to be true; second, the fellow was too
+enthusiastic upon a subject that could not possibly interest him. His
+"Barikallahs" and "Inshallahs" were far too fervid; his answers too
+much in accordance with our wishes. The Doctor laid great stress on the
+report of a Mgwana he met far south, who stated that the grandfather or
+father of Rumanika, present King of Karagwah, had thought of excavating
+the bed of the Kitangule River, in order that his canoes might go to
+Ujiji to open a trade. From this, I imagine, coinciding as it did with
+his often-expressed and present firm belief that the waters of the
+Tanganika had an outlet somewhere, the Doctor was partial to the report
+of the Mgwana; but as we proceed we shall see how all this will end.
+
+On the ninth morning from Ujiji, about two hours after sunrise, we
+passed the broad delta of the Mugere, a river which gives its name also
+to the district on the eastern shore ruled over by Mukamba. We had come
+directly opposite the most southern of its three mouths, when we found
+quite a difference in the colour of the water. An almost straight line,
+drawn east and west from the mouth would serve well to mark off the
+difference that existed between the waters. On the south side was pure
+water of a light green, on the north side it was muddy, and the current
+could be distinctly seen flowing north. Soon after passing the first
+mouth we came to a second, and then a third mouth, each only a few yards
+broad, but each discharging sufficient water to permit our following the
+line of the currents several rods north beyond the respective mouths.
+
+Beyond the third mouth of the Mugere a bend disclosed itself, with
+groups of villages beyond on its bank. These were Mukamba's, and in one
+of them lived Mukamba, the chief. The natives had yet never seen a white
+man, and, of course, as soon as we landed we were surrounded by a large
+concourse, all armed with long spears--the only weapon visible amongst
+them save a club-stick, and here and there a hatchet.
+
+We were shown into a hut, which the Doctor and I shared between us. What
+followed on that day I have but a dim recollection, having been struck
+down by fever--the first since leaving Unyanyembe. I dimly recollect
+trying to make out what age Mukamba might be, and noting that he was
+good-looking withal, and kindly-disposed towards us. And during the
+intervals of agony and unconsciousness, I saw, or fancied I saw,
+Livingstone's form moving towards me, and felt, or fancied I felt,
+Livingstone's hand tenderly feeling my hot head and limbs. I had
+suffered several fevers between Bagamoyo and Unyanyembe, without
+anything or anybody to relieve me of the tedious racking headache and
+pain, or to illumine the dark and gloomy prospect which must necessarily
+surround the bedside of the sick and solitary traveller. But though this
+fever, having enjoyed immunity from it for three months, was more severe
+than usual, I did not much regret its occurrence, since I became the
+recipient of the very tender and fatherly kindness of the good man whose
+companion I now found myself.
+
+The next morning, having recovered slightly from the fever, when Mukamba
+came with a present of an ox, a sheep, and a goat, I was able to attend
+to the answers which he gave to the questions about the Rusizi River
+and the head of the lake. The ever cheerful and enthusiastic Mgwana was
+there also, and he was not a whit abashed, when, through him, the chief
+told us that the Rusizi, joined by the Ruanda, or Luanda, at a distance
+of two days' journey by water, or one day by land from the head of the
+lake, flowed INTO the lake.
+
+Thus our hopes, excited somewhat by the positive and repeated assurances
+that the river flowed out away towards Karagwah, collapsed as speedily
+as they were raised.
+
+We paid Mukamba the honga, consisting of nine doti and nine fundo of
+samsam, lunghio, muzurio n'zige. The printed handkerchiefs, which I had
+in abundance at Unyanyembe, would have gone well here. After receiving
+his present, the chief introduced his son, a tall youth of eighteen or
+thereabouts, to the Doctor, as a would-be son of the Doctor; but, with
+a good-natured laugh, the Doctor scouted all such relationship with him,
+as it was instituted only for the purpose of drawing more cloth out of
+him. Mukamba took it in good part, and did not insist on getting more.
+
+Our second evening at Mukamba's, Susi, the Doctor's servant, got
+gloriously drunk, through the chief's liberal and profuse gifts of
+pombe. Just at dawn neat morning I was awakened by hearing several
+sharp, crack-like sounds. I listened, and I found the noise was in our
+hut. It was caused by the Doctor, who, towards midnight, had felt some
+one come and lie down by his side on the same bed, and, thinking it was
+me, he had kindly made room, and laid down on the edge of the bed. But
+in the morning, feeling rather cold, he had been thoroughly awakened,
+and, on rising on his elbow to see who his bed-fellow was, he
+discovered, to his great astonishment, that it was no other than his
+black servant, Susi, who taking possession of his blankets, and folding
+them about himself most selfishly, was occupying almost the whole bed.
+The Doctor, with that gentleness characteristic of him, instead of
+taking a rod, had contented himself with slapping Susi on the back,
+saying, "Get up, Susi, will you? You are in my bed. How dare you, sir,
+get drunk in this way, after I have told you so often not to. Get up.
+You won't? Take that, and that, and that." Still Susi slept and grunted;
+so the slapping continued, until even Susi's thick hide began to feel
+it, and he was thoroughly awakened to the sense of his want of devotion
+and sympathy for his master in the usurping of even his master's bed.
+Susi looked very much crestfallen after this exposé of his infirmity
+before the "little master," as I was called.
+
+The next day at dusk--Mukamba having come to bid us good-bye, and
+requested that as soon as we reached his brother Ruhinga, whose country
+was at the head of the lake, we would send our canoe back for him, and
+that in the meanwhile we should leave two of our men with him, with
+their guns, to help defend him in case Warumashanya should attack him
+as soon as we were gone--we embarked and pulled across. In nine hours we
+had arrived at the head of the lake in Mugihewa, the country of Ruhinga;
+Mukamba's elder brother. In looking back to where we had come from we
+perceived that we had made a diagonal cut across from south-east to
+north-west, instead of having made a direct east and west course; or,
+in other words, from Mugere--which was at least ten miles from the
+northernmost point of the eastern shore--we had come to Mugihewa,
+situated at the northernmost point of the western shore. Had we
+continued along the eastern shore, and so round the northern side of the
+lake, we should have passed by Mukanigi, the country of Warumashanya,
+and Usumbura of Simveh, his ally and friend. But by making a diagonal
+course, as just described, we had arrived at the extreme head of the
+lake without any difficulty.
+
+The country in which we now found ourselves, Mugihewa, is situated in
+the delta of the Rusizi River. It is an extremely flat country, the
+highest part of which is not ten feet above the lake, with numerous
+depressions in it overgrown with the rankest of matete-grass and the
+tallest of papyrus, and pond-like hollows, filled with stagnant water,
+which emit malaria wholesale. Large herds of cattle are reared on it;
+for where the ground is not covered with marshy plants it produces rich,
+sweet grass. The sheep and goats, especially the former, are always in
+good condition; and though they are not to be compared with English
+or American sheep, they are the finest I have seen in Africa. Numerous
+villages are seen on this land because the intervening spaces are not
+occupied with the rank and luxuriant jungle common in other parts of
+Africa. Were it not for the Euphorbia kolquall of Abyssinia--which some
+chief has caused to be planted as a defence round the villages--one
+might see from one end of Mugihewa to the other. The waters along the
+head of the lake, from the western to the eastern shores, swarm with
+crocodiles. From the banks, I counted ten heads of crocodiles, and the
+Rusizi, we were told, was full of them.
+
+Ruhinga, who came to see us soon after we had taken up our quarters
+in his village, was a most amiable man, who always contrived to see
+something that excited his risibility; though older by five or six years
+perhaps--he said he was a hundred years old--than Mukamba, he was not
+half so dignified, nor regarded with so much admiration by his people
+as his younger brother. Ruhinga had a better knowledge, however, of the
+country than Mukamba, and an admirable memory, and was able to impart
+his knowledge of the country intelligently. After he had done the
+honours as chief to us--presented us with an ox and a sheep, milk
+and honey--we were not backward in endeavouring to elicit as much
+information as possible out of him.
+
+The summary of the information derived from Ruhinga may be stated as
+follows:
+
+The country bordering the head of the lake from Urundi proper, on the
+eastern shore, to Uvira on the western, is divided into the following
+districts: 1st. Mugere, governed by Mukamba, through which issued into
+the lake the small rivers of Mugere and Mpanda. 2nd. Mukanigi, governed
+by Warumashanya, which occupied the whole of the north-eastern head
+of the lake, through which issued into the lake the small rivers of
+Karindwa and Mugera wa Kanigi. 3rd. On the eastern half of the district,
+at the head of the lake, was Usumbura, governed by Simveh, ally and
+friend of Warumashanya, extending to the eastern bank of the Rusizi.
+4th. Commencing from the western bank of the Rusizi, to the extreme
+north-western head of the lake, was Mugihewa--Ruhinga's country. 5th.
+From Uvira on the west, running north past Mugihewa, and overlapping it
+on the north side as far as the hills of Chamati, was Ruwenga, also a
+country governed by Mukamba. Beyond Ruwenga, from the hills of Chamati
+to the Ruanda River, was the country of Chamati. West of Ruwenga,
+comprising all the mountains for two days' journey in that direction,
+was Uashi. These are the smaller sub-divisions of what is commonly known
+as Ruwenga and Usige. Ruwenga comprises the countries of Ruwenga and
+Mugihewa; Usige, the countries of Usumbura, Mukanigi, and Mugere. But
+all these countries are only part and parcel of Urundi, which comprises
+all that country bordering the lake from Mshala River, on the eastern
+shore, to Uvira, on the western, extending over ten days' journey
+direct north from the head of the lake, and one month in a northeastern
+direction to Murukuko, the capital of Mwezi, Sultan of all Urundi.
+Direct north of Urundi is Ruanda; also a very large country.
+
+The Rusizi River--according to Ruhinga--rose near a lake called Kivo,
+which he said is as long as from Mugihawa to Mugere, and as broad as
+from Mugihewa to Warumashanya's country, or, say eighteen miles in
+length by about eight in breadth. The lake is surrounded by mountains
+on the western and northern sides: on the south-western side of one of
+these mountains issues the Rusizi--at first a small rapid stream; but as
+it proceeds towards the lake it receives the rivers Kagunissi, Kaburan,
+Mohira, Nyamagana, Nyakagunda, Ruviro, Rofubu, Kavimvira, Myove, Ruhuha,
+Mukindu, Sange, Rubirizi, Kiriba, and, lastly, the Ruanda River, which
+seems to be the largest of them all. Kivo Lake is so called from the
+country in which it is situated. On one side is Mutumbi (probably
+the Utumbi of Speke and Baker), on the west is Ruanda; on the east is
+Urundi. The name of the chief of Kivo is Kwansibura.
+
+After so many minute details about the River Rusizi, it only remained
+for us to see it. On the second morning of our arrival at Mugihewa we
+mustered ten strong paddlers, and set out to explore the head of the
+lake and the mouth of the Rusizi. We found that the northern head of
+the lake was indented with seven broad bays, each from one and a half to
+three miles broad; that long broad spits of sand, overgrown with matete,
+separated each bay from the other. The first, starting from west to
+east, at the broadest part, to the extreme southern point of Mugihewa,
+was about three miles broad, and served as a line of demarcation between
+Mukamba's district of Ruwenga and Mugihewa of Ruhinga; it was also two
+miles deep. The second bay was a mile from the southern extremity of
+Mugihewa to Ruhinga's village at the head of the bay, and it was a mile
+across to another spit of sand which was terminated by a small island.
+The third bay stretched for nearly a mile to a long spit, at the end of
+which was another island, one and a quarter mile in length, and was the
+western side of the fourth bay, at the head of which was the delta
+of the Rusizi. This fourth bay, at its base, was about three miles
+in depth, and penetrated half a mile further inland than any other.
+Soundings indicated six feet deep, and the same depth was kept to within
+a few hundred yards of the principal mouth of the Rusizi. The current
+was very sluggish; not more than a mile an hour. Though we constantly
+kept our binocular searching for the river, we could not see the main
+channel until within 200 yards of it, and then only by watching by what
+outlet the fishing; canoes came out. The bay at this point had narrowed
+from two miles to about 200 yards in breadth. Inviting a canoe to show
+us the way, a small flotilla of canoes preceded us, from the sheer
+curiosity of their owners. We followed, and in a few minutes were
+ascending the stream, which was very rapid, though but about ten yards
+wide, and very shallow; not more than two feet deep. We ascended about
+half a mile, the current being very strong, from six to eight miles an
+hour, and quite far enough to observe the nature of the stream at its
+embouchure. We could see that it widened and spread out in a myriad of
+channels, rushing by isolated clumps of sedge and matete grass; and that
+it had the appearance of a swamp. We had ascended the central, or main
+channel. The western channel was about eight yards broad. We observed,
+after we had returned to the bay, that the easternmost channel was about
+six yards broad, and about ten feet deep, but very sluggish. We had
+thus examined each of its three mouths, and settled all doubts as to
+the Rusizi being an effluent or influent. It was not necessary to ascend
+higher, there being nothing about the river itself to repay exploration
+of it.
+
+The question, "Was the Rusizi an effluent or an influent?" was answered
+for ever. There was now no doubt any more on that point. In size it was
+not to be compared with the Malagarazi River, neither is it, or can
+it be, navigable for anything but the smallest canoes. The only thing
+remarkable about it is that it abounds in crocodiles, but not one
+hippopotamus was seen; which may be taken as another evidence of
+its shallowness. The bays to the east of the Rusizi are of the same
+conformation as those on the west. Carefully judging from the width of
+the several bays from point to point, and of the several spits which
+separate them, the breadth of the lake may be said to be about twelve
+or fourteen miles. Had we contented ourselves with simply looking at
+the conformation, and the meeting of the eastern and western ranges, we
+should have said that the lake ended in a point, as Captain Speke has
+sketched it on his map. But its exploration dissolved that idea. Chamati
+Hill is the extreme northern termination of the western range, and
+seems, upon a superficial examination, to abut against the Ramata
+mountains of the eastern range, which are opposite Chamati; but a valley
+about a mile in breadth separates the two ranges, and through this
+valley the Rusizi flows towards the lake.* Though Chamati terminates
+the western range, the eastern range continues for miles beyond,
+north-westerly. After its issue from this broad gorge, the Rusizi runs
+seemingly in a broad and mighty stream, through a wide alluvial plain,
+its own formation, in a hundred channels, until, approaching the
+lake, it flows into it by three channels only, as above described.
+______________ * After the patient investigation of the North end of the
+Lake, and satisfying ourselves by personal observation that the Rusizi
+ran into the Lake, the native rumor which Sir Samuel Baker brought home
+that the Tanganika and the Albert N'Yanza have a water connection still
+finds many believers! ______________
+
+I should not omit to state here, that though the Doctor and I have had
+to contend against the strong current of the Rusizi River, as it flowed
+swift and strong INTO the Tanganika, the Doctor still adheres to the
+conviction that, whatever part the Rusizi plays, there must be an outlet
+to the Tanganika somewhere, from the fact that all fresh-water lakes
+have outlets, The Doctor is able to state his opinions and reasons far
+better than I can find for him; and, lest I misconstrue the subject,
+I shall leave it until he has an opportunity to explain them himself;
+which his great knowledge of Africa will enable him to do with
+advantage.
+
+One thing is evident to me, and I believe to the Doctor, that Sir Samuel
+Baker will have to curtail the Albert N'Yanza by one, if not two degrees
+of latitude. That well-known traveller has drawn his lake far into the
+territory of the Warundi, while Ruanda has been placed on the eastern
+side; whereas a large portion of it, if not all, should be placed north
+of what he has designated on his map as Usige. The information of such
+an intelligent man as Ruhinga is not to be despised; for, if Lake Albert
+came within a hundred miles of the Tanganika, he would surely have heard
+of its existence, even if he had not seen it himself. Originally he came
+from Mutumbi, and he has travelled from that country into Mugihewa, the
+district he now governs. He has seen Mwezi, the great King of Urundi,
+and describes him as a man about forty years old, and as a very good
+man.
+
+Our work was now done; there was nothing more to detain us at Mugihewa.
+Ruhinga had been exceedingly kind, and given us one ox after another to
+butcher and eat. Mukamba had done the same. Their women had supplied us
+with an abundance of milk and butter, and we had now bounteous supplies
+of both.
+
+The Doctor had taken a series of observations for latitude and
+longitude; and Mugihewa was made out to be in 3 degrees 19 minutes S.
+latitude.
+
+On the 7th December, early in the morning, we left Mugihewa, and rowing
+past the southern extremity of the Katangara Islands, we approached the
+highlands of Uashi near the boundary line between Mukamba's country and
+Uvira. The boundary line is supposed to be a wide ravine, in the depths
+of which is a grove of tall, beautiful, and straight-stemmed trees, out
+of which the natives make their canoes.
+
+Passing Kanyamabengu River, which issues into the lake close to the
+market-ground of Kirabula, the extreme point of Burton and Speke's
+explorations of the Tanganika, we steered south along the western shore
+of the lake for half an hour longer to Kavimba, where we halted to cook
+breakfast.
+
+The village where lived Mruta, the King of Uvira, was in sight of our
+encampment, and as we observed parties of men ascending and descending
+the mountains much more often than we thought augured good to ourselves,
+we determined to continue on our course south. Besides, there was a
+party of disconsolate-looking Wajiji here, who had been plundered only a
+few days before our arrival, for attempting, as the Wavira believed, to
+evade the honga payment. Such facts as these, and our knowledge of the
+general state of insecurity in the country, resulting from the many wars
+in which the districts of the Tanganika were engaged, determined us not
+to halt at Kavimba.
+
+We embarked quickly in our boat before the Wavira had collected
+themselves, and headed south against a strong gale, which came driving
+down on us from the south-west. After a hard pull of about two hours in
+the teeth of the storm, which was rapidly rising, we pointed the head
+of the boat into a little quiet cove, almost hidden in tall reeds, and
+disembarked for the night.
+
+Cognizant of the dangers which surrounded us, knowing, that savage
+and implacable man was the worst enemy we had to fear, we employed our
+utmost energies in the construction of a stout fence of thorn bushes,
+and then sat down to supper after our work was done, and turned in to
+sleep; but not before we had posted watchmen to guard our canoe, lest
+the daring thieves of Uvira might abstract it, in which case we should
+have been in a pretty plight, and in most unenviable distress.
+
+At daybreak, leaving Kukumba Point after our humble breakfast of coffee,
+cheese, and dourra cakes was despatched, we steered south once more.
+Our fires had attracted the notice of the sharp-eyed and suspicious
+fishermen of Kukumba; but our precautions and the vigilant watch we
+had set before retiring, had proved an effectual safeguard against the
+Kivira thieves.
+
+The western shores of the lake as we proceeded were loftier, and more
+bold than the wooded heights of Urundi and bearded knolls of Ujiji. A
+back ridge--the vanguard of the mountains which rise beyond--disclosed
+itself between the serrated tops of the front line of mountains, which
+rose to a height of from 2,500 to 3,000 feet above the lake. Within the
+folds of the front line of mountains rise isolated hills of considerable
+magnitude, precipitous and abrupt, but scenically very picturesque.
+The greater part of these hills have the rounded and smooth top, or
+are tabularly summited. The ridge enfolding these hills shoots out, at
+intervals, promontorial projections of gradual sloping outlines, which
+on the map I have designated capes, or points. When rounding these
+points, up went our compasses for the taking of bearings, and observing
+the directions of all prominent objects of interest. Often these capes
+are formed by the alluvial plains, through which we may be sure a river
+will be found flowing. These pretty alluvial plains, enfolded on the
+south, the west, and the north by a grand mountain arc, present
+most luxurious and enchanting scenery. The vegetation seems to be of
+spontaneous growth. Groups of the Elaeis Guineansis palm embowering some
+dun-brown village; an array of majestic, superb growth of mvule trees;
+a broad extent covered with vivid green sorghum stalks; parachute-like
+tops of mimosa; a line of white sand, on which native canoes are
+drawn far above the reach of the plangent, uneasy surf; fishermen idly
+reclining in the shade of a tree;--these are the scenes which reveal
+themselves to us as we voyage in our canoe on the Tanganika. When
+wearied with the romance of wild tropic scenes such as these, we have
+but to lift our eyes to the great mountain tops looming darkly and
+grandly on our right; to watch the light pencilling of the cirrus,
+brushing their summits, as it is drifted toward the north by the rising
+wind: to watch the changing forms which the clouds assume, from the
+fleecy horizontal bars of the cirrus, to the denser, gloomier cumulus,
+prognosticator of storm and rain, which soon settles into a portentous
+group--Alps above Alps, one above another--and we know the storm which
+was brewing is at hand, and that it is time to seek shelter.
+
+Passing Muikamba, we saw several groves of the tall mvule tree. As
+far as Bemba the Wabembe occupy the mountain summits, while the Wavira
+cultivate the alluvial plains along the base and lower slopes of
+the mountain. At Bemba we halted to take in pieces of pipe-clay, in
+accordance with the superstition of the Wajiji, who thought us certain
+of safe passage and good fortune if we complied with the ancient custom.
+
+Passing Ngovi, we came to a deep bend, which curved off to Cape Kabogi
+at the distance of ten miles. About two-thirds of the way we arrived
+at a group of islets, three in number, all very steep and rocky; the
+largest about 300 feet in length at the base, and about 200 feet
+in breadth. Here we made preparations to halt for the night. The
+inhabitants of the island were a gorgeously-feathered old cock, which
+was kept as a propitiatory offering to the spirit of the island, a
+sickly yellow-looking thrush, a hammer-headed stork, and two fish-hawks,
+who, finding we had taken possession of what had been religiously
+reserved for them, took flight to the most western island, where from
+their perches they continued to eye us most solemnly. As these islands
+were with difficulty pronounced by us as Kavunvweh, the Doctor, seeing
+that they were the only objects we were likely to discover, named
+them the "'New York Herald' Islets;" and, in confirmation of the
+new designation given them, shook hands with me upon it. Careful
+dead-reckoning settled them to be in lat. 3 degrees 41 minutes S.
+
+The summit of the largest island was well adapted to take bearings, and
+we improved the opportunity, as most extensive views of the broad
+and lengthy lake and surrounding lines of imposing mountains were
+attainable. The Ramata Hills were clearly visible, and bore N.N.E.
+from it; Katanga Cape, S.E. by S.; Sentakeyi, E.S.E.; Magala, E. by N.;
+south-western point of Muzimu bore S., northern point of Muzimu island,
+S.S.E.
+
+At dawn on the 9th December we prepared to resume our voyage. Once or
+twice in the night we had been visited by fishermen, but our anxious
+watchfulness prevented any marauding. It seemed to me, however, that
+the people of the opposite shore, who were our visitors, were eagerly
+watching an opportunity to pounce upon our canoe, or take us bodily for
+a prey; and our men were considerably affected by these thoughts, if we
+may judge from the hearty good-will with which they rowed away from our
+late encampment.
+
+Arriving at Cape Kabogi, we came to the territory of the Wasansi. We
+knew we were abreast of a different tribe by the greeting "Moholo,"
+which a group of fishermen gave us; as that of the Wavira was "Wake,"
+like that of Urundi, Usige, and Uhha.
+
+We soon sighted Cape Luvumba--a sloping projection of a mountain ridge
+which shot far into the lake. As a storm was brewing, we steered for a
+snug little cove that appeared before a village; and, drawing our canoe
+from the water, began to set the tent, and make other preparations for
+passing the night.
+
+As the natives appeared quiet and civil enough, we saw no reason to
+suspect that they entertained any hostility to Arabs and Wangwana.
+Accordingly we had our breakfast cooked, and as usual laid down for an
+afternoon nap. I soon fell asleep, and was dreaming away in my tent, in
+happy oblivion of the strife and contention that had risen since I had
+gone to sleep, when I heard a voice hailing me with, "Master, master!
+get up, quick. Here is a fight going to begin!" I sprang up, and
+snatching my revolver belt from the gun-stand, walked outside. Surely,
+there appeared to be considerable animus between the several factions;
+between a noisy, vindictive-looking set of natives of the one part, and
+our people of the other part. Seven or eight of our people had taken
+refuge behind the canoe, and had their loaded guns half pointing at the
+passionate mob, which was momentarily increasing in numbers, but I could
+not see the Doctor anywhere.
+
+"Where is the Doctor?" I asked.
+
+"He has gone over that hill, sir, with his compass," said Selim.
+
+"Anybody with him?"
+
+"Susi and Chumah."
+
+"You, Bombay, send two men off to warn the Doctor, and tell him to hurry
+up here."
+
+But just at this period the Doctor and his two men appeared on the
+brow of the hill, looking down in a most complacent manner upon the
+serio-comic scene that the little basin wherein we were encamped
+presented. For, indeed, despite the serious aspect of it, there was much
+that was comical blended with it--in a naked young man who--perfectly
+drunk, barely able to stand on his feet--was beating the ground with his
+only loin-cloth, screaming and storming away like a madman; declaring
+by this, and by that, in his own choice language, that no Mgwana or Arab
+should halt one moment on the sacred soil of Usansi. His father, the
+Sultan, was as inebriated as himself, though not quite so violent in his
+behaviour. In the meantime the Doctor arrived upon the scene, and Selim
+had slipped my Winchester rifle, with the magazine full of cartridges,
+into my hand. The Doctor calmly asked what was the matter, and was
+answered by the Wajiji guides that the people wished us to leave, as
+they were on hostile terms with the Arabs, because the eldest son of the
+Sultan of Muzimu, the large island nearly opposite, had been beaten to
+death by a Baluch, named Khamis, at Ujiji, because the young fellow had
+dared look into his harem, and ever since peace had been broken between
+the Wasansi and Arabs.
+
+After consulting with the guides, the Doctor and I came to the
+conclusion that it were better that we should endeavour to pacify
+the Sultan by a present, rather than take offence at a drunken boy's
+extravagant freak. In his insane fury he had attempted to slash at
+one of my men with a billhook he carried. This had been taken as a
+declaration of hostilities, and the soldiers were ready enough to engage
+in war; but there was no necessity to commence fighting with a drunken
+mob, who could have been cleared off the ground with our revolvers alone
+had we desired it.
+
+The Doctor, baring his arm, said to them that he was not a Mgwana, or an
+Arab; but a white man; that Arabs and Wangwana had no such colour as we
+had. We were white men, different people altogether from those whom they
+were accustomed to see: that no black men had ever suffered injury
+from white men. This seemed to produce great effect, for after a little
+gentle persuasion the drunken youth, and his no less inebriate sire,
+were induced to sit down to talk quietly. In their conversation with us,
+they frequently referred to Mombo, the son of Kisesa, Sultan of Muzimu,
+who was brutally murdered. "Yes, brutally murdered!" they exclaimed
+several times, in their own tongue; illustrating, by a faithful
+pantomime, how the unfortunate youth had died.
+
+Livingstone continued talking with them in a mild, paternal way, and
+their loud protestations against Arab cruelty were about to subside,
+when the old Sultan suddenly rose up and began to pace about in an
+excited manner, and in one of his perambulations deliberately slashed
+his leg with the sharp blade of his spear, and then exclaimed that the
+Wangwana had wounded him!
+
+At this cry one half of the mob hastily took to flight, but one old
+woman, who carried a strong staff with a carved lizard's body on its
+top, commenced to abuse the chief with all the power of her voluble
+tongue, charging him with a desire to have them all killed, and other
+women joined in with her in advising him to be quiet, and accept the
+present we were willing to give.
+
+But it is evident that there was little needed to cause all men present
+in that little hollow to begin a most sanguinary strife. The gentle,
+patient bearing of the Doctor had more effect than anything else in
+making all forbear bloodshed, while there was left the least chance of
+an amicable settlement, and in the end it prevailed. The Sultan and his
+son were both sent on their way rejoicing.
+
+While the Doctor conversed with them, and endeavoured to calm their
+fierce passions, I had the tent struck, and the canoes launched, and
+the baggage stowed, and when the negotiations had concluded amicably,
+I begged the Doctor to jump into the boat, as this apparent peace was
+simply a lull before a storm; besides, said I, there are two or three
+cowardly creatures in the boat, who, in case of another disturbance,
+would not scruple to leave both of us here.
+
+From Cape Luvumba, about 4.30 P.M. we commenced pulling across; at 8
+P.M. we were abreast of Cape Panza, the northern extremity of the
+island of Muzimu; at 6 A.M. we were southward of Bikari, and pulling for
+Mukungu, in Urundi, at which place we arrived at 10 A.M., having been
+seventeen hours and a half in crossing the lake, which, computing at two
+miles an hour, may be said to be thirty-five miles direct breadth, and a
+little more than forty-three miles from Cape Luvumba.
+
+On the 11th of December, after seven hours' pulling, we arrived at
+picturesque Zassi again; on the 12th, at the pretty cove of Niasanga;
+and at 11 A.M. we had rounded past Bangwe, and Ujiji was before us.
+
+We entered the port very quietly, without the usual firing of guns, as
+we were short of powder and ball. As we landed, our soldiers and the
+Arab magnates came to the water's edge to greet us.
+
+Mabruki had a rich budget to relate to us, of what had occurred during
+our absence. This faithful man, left behind in charge of Livingstone's
+house, had done most excellently. Kalulu had scalded himself, and had
+a frightful raw sore on his chest in consequence. Mabruki had locked up
+Marora in chains for wounding one of the asses. Bilali, the stuttering
+coward, a bully of women, had caused a tumult in the market-place, and
+had been sharply belaboured with the stick by Mabruki. And, above
+all most welcome, was a letter I received from the American Consul at
+Zanzibar, dated June 11th, containing telegrams from Paris as late as
+April 22nd of the same year! Poor Livingstone exclaimed, "And I have
+none. What a pleasant thing it is to have a real and good friend!"
+
+Our voyage on the Tanganika had lasted twenty-eight days, during which
+time we had traversed over 300 miles of water.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV. -- OUR JOURNEY FROM UJIJI TO UNYANYEMBE.
+
+
+We felt quite at home when we sat down on our black bear-skin, gay
+Persian carpet and clean new mats, to rest with our backs to the wall,
+sipping our tea with the air of comfortable men, and chat over the
+incidents of the "picnic," as Livingstone persisted in calling our
+journey to the Rusizi. It seemed as if old times, which we loved to
+recall, had come back again, though our house was humble enough in its
+aspect, and our servants were only naked barbarians; but it was near
+this house that I had met him--Livingstone--after that eventful march
+from Unyanyembe; it was on this same veranda that I listened to that
+wonderful story of his about those far, enchanting regions west of the
+Lake Tanganika; it was in this same spot that I first became acquainted
+with him; and ever since my admiration has been growing for him, and I
+feel elated when he informs me that he must go to Unyanyembe under my
+escort, and at my expense. The old mud walls and the bare rafters, and
+the ancient thatched roof, and this queer-looking old veranda, will have
+an historical interest for me while I live, and so, while I can, I have
+taken pains and immortalized the humble old building by a sketch.
+
+I have just said that my admiration for Livingstone has been growing.
+This is true. The man that I was about to interview so calmly and
+complacently, as I would interview any prominent man with the view
+of specially delineating his nature, or detailing his opinions, has
+conquered me. I had intended to interview him, report in detail what he
+said, picture his life and his figure, then bow him my "au revoir,"
+and march back. That he was specially disagreeable and brusque in his
+manner, which would make me quarrel with him immediately, was firmly
+fixed in my mind.
+
+But Livingstone--true, noble Christian, generous-hearted, frank
+man--acted like a hero, invited me to his house, said he was glad to see
+me, and got well on purpose to prove the truth of his statement, "You
+have brought new life unto me;" and when I fell sick with the remittent
+fever, hovering between life and death, he attended me like a father,
+and we have now been together for more than a month.
+
+Can you wonder, then, that I like this man, whose face is the reflex of
+his nature, whose heart is essentially all goodness, whose aims are so
+high, that I break out impetuously sometimes: "But your family, Doctor,
+they would like to see you, oh! so much. Let me tempt you to come home
+with me. I promise to carry you every foot of the way to the coast.
+You shall have the finest donkey to ride that is in Unyanyembe. Your
+wants--you have but to hint them, and they shall be satisfied. Let the
+sources of the Nile go--do you come home and rest; then, after a year's
+rest, and restored health, you can return and finish what you have to
+do."
+
+But ever the answer was, "No, I should like to see my family very much
+indeed. My children's letters affect me intensely; but I must not go
+home; I must finish my task. It is only the want of supplies that has
+detained me. I should have finished the discovery of the Nile by this,
+by tracing it to its connection with either Baker's Lake, or Petherick's
+branch of the Nile. If I had only gone one month further, I could have
+said, 'the work is done."'
+
+Some of these men who had turned the Doctor back from his interesting
+discoveries were yet in Ujiji, and had the Government Enfield rifles in
+their hands, which they intended to retain until their wages had been
+paid to them; but as they had received $60 advance each at Zanzibar from
+the English Consul, with the understanding entered into by contract that
+they should follow their master wherever he required them to go; and as
+they had not only not gone where they were required to proceed with him,
+but had baffled and thwarted him, it was preposterous that a few men
+should triumph over the Doctor, by keeping the arms given to him by the
+Bombay Government. I had listened to the Arab sheikhs, friends of the
+Doctor, advising them in mild tones to give them up; I had witnessed
+the mutineer's stubbornness; and it was then, on the burzani of Sayd bin
+Majid's house, that I took advantage to open my mind on the subject, not
+only for the benefit of the stubborn slaves, but also for the benefit
+of the Arabs; and to tell them that it was well that I had found
+Livingstone alive, for if they had but injured a hair of his head, I
+should have gone back to the coast, to return with a party which would
+enable me to avenge him. I had been waiting to see Livingstone's guns
+returned to him every day, hoping that I should not have to use force;
+but when a month or more had elapsed, and still the arms had not been
+returned, I applied for permission to take them, which was granted.
+Susi, the gallant servant of Dr. Livingstone, was immediately despatched
+with about a dozen armed men to recover them, and in a few minutes we
+had possession of them without further trouble.
+
+The Doctor had resolved to accompany me to Unyanyembe, in order to meet
+his stores, which had been forwarded from Zanzibar, November 1st, 1870.
+As I had charge of the escort, it was my duty to study well the several
+routes to Unyanyembe from Ujiji. I was sufficiently aware of the
+difficulties and the responsibilities attached to me while escorting
+such a man. Besides, my own personal feelings were involved in the case.
+If Livingstone came to any harm through any indiscretion of mine
+while he was with me, it would immediately be said, "Ah! had he not
+accompanied Stanley, he would have been alive now."
+
+I took out my chart--the one I had made myself--in which I had perfect
+faith, and I sketched out a route which would enable us to reach
+Unyanyembe without paying a single cloth as tribute, and without
+encountering any worse thing than a jungle, by which we could avoid all
+the Wavinza and the plundering Wahha. This peaceable, secure route
+led by water, south, along the coast of Ukaranga and Ukawendi, to Cape
+Tongwe. Arriving at Cape Tongwe, I should be opposite the village of
+Itaga, Sultan Imrera, in the district of Rusawa of Ukawendi; after which
+we should strike my old road, which I had traversed from Unyanyembe,
+when bound for Ujiji. I explained it to the Doctor, and he instantly
+recognised its feasibility and security; and if I struck Imrera, as I
+proposed to do, it would demonstrate whether my chart was correct or
+not.
+
+We arrived at Ujiji from our tour of discovery, north of the Tanganika,
+December 13th; and from this date the Doctor commenced writing his
+letters to his numerous friends, and to copy into his mammoth Letts's
+Diary, from his field books, the valuable information he had acquired
+during his years of travel south and west of the Tanganika. I sketched
+him while sitting in his shirt-sleeves in the veranda, with his Letts's
+Diary on his knee; and the likeness on the frontispiece is an admirable
+portrait of him, because the artist who has assisted me, has with an
+intuitive eye, seen the defects in my own sketch; and by this I am
+enabled to restore him to the reader's view exactly as I saw him--as he
+pondered on what he had witnessed during his long marches.
+
+Soon after my arrival at Ujiji, he had rushed to his paper, and indited
+a letter to James Gordon Bennett, Esq., wherein he recorded his thanks;
+and after he had finished it, I asked him to add the word "Junior" to
+it, as it was young Mr. Bennett to whom he was indebted. I thought the
+letter admirable, and requested the Doctor not to add another word to
+it. The feelings of his heart had found expression in the grateful words
+he had written; and if I judged Mr. Bennett rightly, I knew he would be
+satisfied with it. For it was not the geographical news he cared so much
+about, as the grand fact of Livingstone's being alive or dead.
+
+In this latter part of December he was writing letters to his children,
+to Sir Roderick Murchison, and to Lord Granville. He had intended to
+have written to the Earl of Clarendon, but it was my sad task to inform
+him of the death of that distinguished nobleman.
+
+In the meantime I was preparing the Expedition for its return march to
+Unyanyembe, apportioning the bales and luggage, the Doctor's large tin
+boxes, and my own among my own men; for I had resolved upon permitting
+the Doctor's men to march as passengers, because they had so nobly
+performed their duty to their master.
+
+Sayd bin Majid had left, December 12, for Mirambo's country, to give the
+black Bonaparte battle for the murder of his son Soud in the forests
+of Wilyankuru; and he had taken with him 300 stout fellows, armed with
+guns, from Ujiji. The stout-hearted old chief was burning with rage
+and resentment, and a fine warlike figure he made with his 7-foot gun.
+Before we had departed for the Rusizi, I had wished him bon voyage,
+and expressed a hope that he would rid the Central African world of the
+tyrant Mirambo.
+
+On the 20th of December the rainy season was ushered in with heavy rain,
+thunder, lightning, and hail; the thermometer falling to 66 degrees
+Fahrenheit. The evening of this day I was attacked with urticaria,
+or "nettle rash," for the third time since arriving in Africa, and I
+suffered a woeful sickness; and it was the forerunner of an attack of
+remittent fever, which lasted four days. This is the malignant type,
+which has proved fatal to so many African travellers on the Zambezi, the
+White Nile, the Congo, and the Niger. The head throbs, the pulses bound,
+the heart struggles painfully, while the sufferer's thoughts are in a
+strange world, such only as a sick man's fancy can create. This was the
+fourth attack of fever since the day I met Livingstone. The excitement
+of the march, and the high hope which my mind constantly nourished,
+had kept my body almost invincible against an attack of fever while
+advancing towards Ujiji; but two weeks after the great event had
+transpired my energies were relaxed, my mind was perfectly tranquil, and
+I became a victim.
+
+Christmas came, and the Doctor and I had resolved upon the blessed and
+time-honoured day being kept as we keep it in Anglo-Saxon lands, with a
+feast such as Ujiji could furnish us. The fever had quite gone from me
+the night before, and on Christmas morning, though exceedingly weak, I
+was up and dressed, and lecturing Ferajji, the cook, upon the importance
+of this day to white men, and endeavouring to instil into the mind of
+the sleek and pampered animal some cunning secrets of the culinary
+art. Fat broad-tailed sheep, goats, zogga and pombe, eggs, fresh milk,
+plantains, singwe, fine cornflour, fish, onions, sweet potatoes, &c.,
+&c., were procured in the Ujiji market, and from good old Moeni Kheri.
+But, alas! for my weakness. Ferajji spoiled the roast, and our custard
+was burned--the dinner was a failure. That the fat-brained rascal
+escaped a thrashing was due only to my inability to lift my hands for
+punishment; but my looks were dreadful and alarming, and capable of
+annihilating any one except Ferajji. The stupid, hard-headed cook only
+chuckled, and I believe he had the subsequent gratification of eating
+the pies, custards, and roast that his carelessness had spoiled for
+European palates.
+
+Sayd bin Majid, previous to his departure, had left orders that we
+should be permitted to use his canoe for our homeward trip, and Moeni
+Kheri kindly lent his huge vessel for the same purpose. The Expedition,
+now augmented by the Doctor and his five servants, and their luggage,
+necessitated the employment of another canoe. We had our flocks of
+milch-goats and provision of fat sheep for the jungle of Ukawendi, the
+transit of which I was about to attempt. Good Halimah, Livingstone's
+cook, had made ready a sackful of fine flour, such as she only could
+prepare in her fond devotion for her master. Hamoydah, her husband, also
+had freely given his assistance and attention to this important article
+of food. I purchased a donkey for the Doctor, the only one available in
+Ujiji, lest the Doctor might happen to suffer on the long march from his
+ancient enemy. In short, we were luxuriously furnished with food, sheep,
+goats, cheese, cloth, donkeys, and canoes, sufficient to convey us a
+long distance; we needed nothing more.
+
+The 27th of December has arrived; it is the day of our departure from
+Ujiji. I was probably about to give an eternal farewell to the port
+whose name will for ever be sacred in my memory. The canoes--great
+lumbering hollow trees--are laden with good things; the rowers are
+in their places; the flag of England is hoisted at the stern of the
+Doctor's canoe; the flag of America waves and rustles joyously above
+mine; and I cannot look at them without feeling a certain pride that the
+two Anglo-Saxon nations are represented this day on this great inland
+sea, in the face of wild nature and barbarism.
+
+We are escorted to our boats by the great Arab merchants, by the
+admiring children of Unyamwezi, by the freemen of Zanzibar, by wondering
+Waguhha and Wajiji, by fierce Warundi, who are on this day quiet, even
+sorrowful, that the white men are going-"Whither?" they all ask.
+
+At 8 A.M. we start, freely distributing our farewells as the Arabs and
+quidnuncs wave their hands. On the part of one or two of them there was
+an attempt to say something sentimental and affecting, especially by the
+convicted sinner Mohammed bin Sali; but though outwardly I manifested no
+disapprobation of his words, or of the emphatic way in which he shook
+my hand, I was not sorry to see the last of him, after his treachery to
+Livingstone in 1869. I was earnestly requested to convey to Unyanyembe
+"Mengi salaams" to everybody, but had I done so, as he evidently desired
+me to do, I would not have been surprised at being regarded by all as
+hopelessly imbecile.
+
+We pushed off from the clayey bank at the foot of the market-place,
+while the land party, unencumbered with luggage, under the leadership of
+gigantic Asmani and Bombay, commenced their journey southward along the
+shores of the lake. We had arranged to meet them at the mouth of every
+river to transport them across from bank to bank.
+
+The Doctor being in Sayd bin Majid's boat, which was a third or so
+shorter than the one under my command, took the lead, with the British
+flag, held aloft by a bamboo, streaming behind like a crimson meteor.
+My boat-manned by Wajiji sailors, whom we had engaged to take the canoes
+back from Tongwe Cape to Ujiji Bunder--came astern, and had a much
+taller flagstaff, on which was hoisted the ever-beautiful Stars and
+Stripes. Its extreme height drew from the Doctor--whose patriotism and
+loyalty had been excited--the remark that he would cut down the tallest
+palmyra for his flagstaff, as it was not fitting that the British flag
+should be so much lower than that of the United States.
+
+Our soldiers were not a whit behind us in lightheartedness at the
+thought of going to Unyanyembe. They struck up the exhilarating song of
+the Zanzibar boatmen, with the ecstatic chorus--
+
+     Kinan de re re Kitunga,
+
+rowing away like madmen, until they were compelled to rest from sheer
+exhaustion, while the perspiration exuded from the pores of their bodies
+in streams. When refreshed, they bent back to their oars, raising the
+song of the Mrima--
+
+     O mama, re de mi Ky,
+
+which soon impelled them to an extravagant effort again, It was by
+this series of ferocious spurts, racing, shouting, singing, perspiring,
+laughing, groaning, and puffing, that our people vented their joyous
+feelings, as the thought filled their minds that we were homeward bound,
+and that by the route I had adopted between us and Unyanyembe there was
+not the least danger.
+
+       We have given the Waha, the slip! ha, ha!
+       The Wavinza will trouble us no more! ho! ho!
+     Mionvu can get no more cloth from us! by,by!
+     And Kiala will see us no more---never more! he, he!
+
+they shouted with wild bursts of laughter, seconded by tremendous and
+rapid strokes with their oars, which caused the stiff old canoes to
+quiver from stem to stern.
+
+Our party ashore seemed to partake of our excitement, and joined in the
+wild refrain of the mad African song. We watched them urging their steps
+forward to keep pace with us, as we rounded the capes and points, and
+rowed across the bays whose margins were sedge, and rush, and reed; the
+tiny and agile Kalulu, little Bilali, and Majwara were seen racing the
+herds of goats, sheep, and donkeys which belonged to the caravan, and
+the animals even seemed to share the general joy.
+
+Nature, also--proud, wild nature-0-with the lofty azure dome upheaved
+into infinity--with her breadth and depth of vivid greenness and
+enormous vastness on our left--with her immense sheet of bright,
+glancing water--with her awful and intense serenity--she partook of and
+added to our joy.
+
+About 10 A.M. we arrived at Kirindo's, an old chief, noted for his
+singular kindness to Dr. Livingstone, while he bore animosity to the
+Arabs. To the Arabs this was unaccountable--to the Doctor it was plain:
+he had but spoken kind and sincere words, while all the Arabs spoke to
+him as if he were not even a man, least of all a chief.
+
+Kirindo's place is at the mouth of the Liuche, which is very wide; the
+river oozes out through a forest of eschinomenae (pith tree). This was
+a rendezvous agreed upon between shore and lake parties, that the canoes
+might all cross to the other side, distant a mile and a half. The mouth
+of the Liuche forms the Bay of Ukaranga, so named because on the other
+side, whither we were about to cross our party, was situated the village
+of Ukaranga, a few hundred yards from the lake. All the baggage was
+taken out of the largest canoe, and stowed snugly in the smaller one,
+and a few select oarsmen having taken seats, pushed off with the Doctor
+on board, who was to superintend pitching the encampment at Ukaranga;
+while I remained behind to bind the fractious and ill-natured donkeys,
+and stow them away in the bottom of the large canoe, that no danger
+of upsetting might be incurred, and a consequent gobbling-up by hungry
+crocodiles, which were all about us waiting their opportunity. The flock
+of goats were then embarked, and as many of our people as could be got
+in. About thirty still remained behind with myself, for whom my canoe
+was to return.
+
+We all arrived safe at Ukaranga, though we got dangerously near a herd
+of hippopotami. The crossing of the wide mouth (the Liuche being then in
+flood) was effected in about four hours.
+
+The next day, in the same order as on our departure from Ujiji, we
+pursued our way south, the lake party keeping as closely as possible to
+the shore, yet, when feasible, wind and weather permitting, we struck
+off boldly across the numerous small bays which indent the shores of
+the Tanganika. The shores were beautifully green, the effect of the
+late rains; the waters of the lake were a faithful reflex of the blue
+firmament above. The hippopotami were plentiful. Those noticed on this
+day were coloured with reddish rings round the base of their ears and on
+the neck. One monster, coming up rather late, was surprised by the canoe
+making full for him, and in great fright took a tremendous dive which
+showed the whole length of his body. Half way between the mouth of
+the Malagarazi and that of the Liuche we saw a camp on shore--that of
+Mohammed bin Gharib, a Msawahili, who figured often in Livingstone's
+verbal narrative to me of his adventures and travels as one of the
+kindest and best of the Moslems in Central Africa. He appeared to me
+a kindly disposed man, with a face seldom seen, having the stamp of an
+unusual characteristic on it--that of sincerity.
+
+The vegetation of the shores as we proceeded was truly tropical, each
+curve revealed new beauties. With the soft chalky stone, of which most
+of the cliffs and bluffs are made, seen as we neared the mouth of the
+Malagarazi, the surf has played strange freaks.
+
+We arrived at the mouth of the Malagarazi about P.M., having rowed
+eighteen miles from Ukaranga. The shore party arrived, very much
+fatigued, about 5 P.M.
+
+The next day was employed in crossing the caravan across the broad mouth
+of the Malagarazi to our camp, a couple of miles north of the river.
+This is a river which a civilised community would find of immense
+advantage for shortening the distance between the Tanganika and the
+coast. Nearly one hundred miles might be performed by this river, which
+is deep enough at all seasons to allow navigation as far as Kiala,
+in Uvinza, whence a straight road might be easily made to
+Unyanyembe. Missionaries also might reap the same benefit from it for
+conversion-tours to Uvinza, Uhha, and Ugala. Pursuing our way on the
+30th, and rounding the picturesque capes of Kagongo, Mviga and Kivoe, we
+came, after about three hours' rowing, in sight of villages at the
+mouth of the swift and turbid Rugufu. Here we had again to transport the
+caravan ever the crocodile-infested mouth of the river.
+
+On the morning of the 31st we sent a canoe with men to search for food
+in the two or three villages that were visible on the other side.
+Four doti purchased just sufficient for four days for our caravan
+of forty-eight persons. We then got under weigh, having informed the
+kirangozi that Urimba was our destination, and bidding him keep as
+closely as possible to the lake shore, where it was practicable, but
+if not, to make the best he could of it. From the debouchement of the
+Rugufu, the headwaters of which we had crossed on our random route
+to Ujiji, to Urimba, a distance of six days by water, there are no
+villages, and consequently no food. The shore party, however, before
+leaving Ujiji, had eight days' rations, and on this morning four days',
+distributed to each person, and therefore was in no danger of starvation
+should the mountain headlands, now unfolding, abrupt and steep, one
+after another, prevent them from communicating with us. It must be
+understood that such a journey as this had never been attempted before
+by any Arab or Msawahili, and every step taken was in sheer ignorance
+of where the road would lead the men ashore. Rounding Kivoe's steep
+promontory, whose bearded ridge and rugged slope, wooded down to the
+water's edge, whose exquisite coves and quiet recesses, might well have
+evoked a poetical effusion to one so inclined, we dared the chopping
+waves of Kivoe's bay, and stood direct for the next cape, Mizohazy,
+behind which, owing to wind and wave, we were compelled to halt for the
+night.
+
+After Mizohazy is the bold cape of Kabogo--not the terrible Kabogo
+around whose name mystery has been woven by the superstitious
+natives--not the Kabogo whose sullen thunder and awful roar were heard
+when crossing the Rugufu on our flight from the Wahha---but a point
+in Ukaranga, on whose hard and uninviting rocks many a canoe has been
+wrecked. We passed close to its forbidding walls, thankful for the
+calm of the Tanganika. Near Kabogo are some very fine mvule trees, well
+adapted for canoe building, and there are no loud-mouthed natives about
+to haggle for the privilege of cutting them.
+
+Along the water's edge, and about three feet above it, was observed very
+clearly on the smooth face of the rocky slopes of Kabogo the high-water
+mark of the lake. This went to show that the Tanganika, during the rainy
+season, rises about three feet above its dry season level, and that,
+during the latter season, evaporation reduces it to its normal level.
+The number of rivers which we passed on this journey enabled me to
+observe whether, as I was told, there was any current setting north.
+It was apparent to me that, while the south-west, south, or south-east
+winds blew, the brown flood of the rivers swept north; but it happened
+that, while passing, once or twice, the mouths of rivers, after a
+puff from the north-west and north, that the muddied waters were seen
+southward of the mouths; from which I conclude that there is no current
+in the Tanganika except such as is caused by the fickle wind.
+
+Finding a snug nook of a bay at a place called Sigunga, we put in for
+lunch. An island at the mouth of the bay suggested to our minds that
+this was a beautiful spot for a mission station; the grandly sloping
+hills in the background, with an undulating shelf of land well-wooded
+between them and the bay, added to the attractions of such a spot.
+The island, capable of containing quite a large village, and perfectly
+defensible, might, for prudence' sake, contain the mission and its
+congregation; the landlocked bay would protect their fishery and trade
+vessels; more than sustain a hundred times the number of the population
+of the island. Wood for building their canoes and houses is close at
+hand; the neighbouring country would afford game in abundance; and the
+docile and civil people of Ukaranga but wait religious shepherds.
+
+From beautiful Sigunga, after a brief halt, we set off, and, after
+three hours, arrived at the mouth of the River Uwelasia. Hippopotami
+and crocodiles being numerous; we amused ourselves by shooting at them,
+having also a hope of attracting the attention of our shore party, the
+sound of whose guns we had not heard since leaving the Rugufu.
+
+On the 3rd of January we left Uwelasia, and, passing by Cape Herembe,
+were in the bay of Tongwe. This bay is about twenty-five miles broad,
+and stretches from Cape Herembe to Cape Tongwe. Finding themselves so
+near their destination, Urimba being but six miles from Herembe Point,
+the men of both boats bent themselves to their oars, and, with shouts,
+songs, and laughter, encouraged each other to do their utmost. The flags
+of the two great Anglo-Saxon nations rippled and played in the soft
+breeze, sometimes drawing near caressingly together, again bending away,
+like two lovers coy to unite. The tight little boat of the Doctor would
+keep ahead, and the crimson and crossed flag of England would wave
+before me, and it seemed to say to the beautiful laggard astern, "Come
+on, come on; England leads the way." But was it not England's place
+to be in the front here? She won the right to it by discovering the
+Tanganika; America came but second.
+
+Urimba, though a large district of Kawendi, has a village of the
+same name peopled by refugees from Yombeh, who found the delta of
+the Loajeri, though the unhealthiest of spots--equal to that of the
+Rusizi--far preferable to the neighbourhood of Sultan Pumburu, of
+Southern Kawendi. A good chase by the victors seems to have given a
+shock to their systems, for they are very timid and distrustful of
+strangers, and would by no means permit us to enter their village, of
+which, to say the truth, I was very glad, after a glance at the
+reeking corruption on which they were encamped. In the immediate
+neighbourhood--nay, for a couple of miles on either side--I should
+suppose that to a white man it were death to sleep a single night.
+Leading the way south of the village, I found a fit camping-place at
+the extreme south-east corner of Tongwe Bay, about a mile and a half due
+west of the lofty peak of Kivanga, or Kakungu. By an observation taken
+by the Doctor, we found ourselves to be in latitude 5 degrees 54 minutes
+south.
+
+None of the natives had heard of our shore party, and, as the delta of
+the Loajeri and Mogambazi extended for about fifteen miles, and withal
+was the most impassable of places, being perfectly flat, overgrown with
+the tallest of matete, eschinomenae, and thorny bush, and flooded with
+water, it was useless to fatigue our men searching for the shore party
+in such an inhospitable country. No provisions were procurable, for the
+villages were in a state of semi-starvation, the inhabitants living from
+hand to mouth on what reluctant Fortune threw into their nets.
+
+The second day of our arrival at Urimba I struck off into the
+interior with my gun-bearer, Kalulu, carrying the Doctor's splendid
+double-barreled rifle (a Reilly, No. 12), on the search for venison.
+After walking about a mile I came to a herd of zebras. By creeping on
+all-fours I managed to come within one hundred yards of them; but I was
+in a bad spot--low prickly shrubs; and tsetse flies alighting on the
+rifle-sight, biting my nose, and dashing into my eyes, completely
+disconcerted me; and, to add to my discontent, my efforts to disengage
+myself from the thorns, alarmed the zebras, which all stood facing the
+suspicious object in the bush. I fired at the breast of one, but, as
+might be expected, missed. The zebras galloped away to about three
+hundred yards off, and I dashed into the open, and, hastily cocking the
+left-hand trigger, aimed at a proud fellow trotting royally before his
+fellows, and by good chance sent a bullet through his heart. A fortunate
+shot also brought down a huge goose, which had a sharp horny spur on
+the fore part of each wing. This supply of meat materially contributed
+towards the provisioning of the party for the transit of the unknown
+land that lay between us and Mrera, in Rusawa, Kawendi.
+
+It was not until the third day of our arrival at our camp at Urimba that
+our shore party arrived. They had perceived our immense flag hoisted on
+a twenty-feet long bamboo above the tallest tree near our camp as they
+surmounted the sharp lofty ridge behind Nerembe, fifteen miles off, and
+had at first taken it for a huge bird; but there were sharp eyes in the
+crowd, and, guided by it, they came to camp, greeted as only lost and
+found men are greeted.
+
+I suffered from another attack of fever at this camp, brought on by the
+neighbourhood of the vile delta, the look of which sickened the very
+heart in me.
+
+On the 7th of January we struck camp, and turned our faces eastward,
+and for me, home! Yet regretfully! There had been enough happiness and
+pleasure, and pleasantest of social companionship found on the shores
+of the lake for me. I had seen enough lovely scenes which, siren-like,
+invited one to quiet rest; gentle scenes, where there was neither jar
+nor tumult, neither strife nor defeat, neither hope nor disappointment,
+but rest-a drowsy, indolent, yet pleasant rest. And only a few drawbacks
+to these. There was fever; there were no books, no newspapers, no wife
+of my own race and blood, no theatres, no hotels, no restaurants, no
+East River oysters, no mince-pies, neither buckwheat cakes, nor anything
+much that was good for a cultivated palate to love. So, in turning to
+say farewell to the then placid lake and the great blue mountains, that
+grew bluer as they receded on either hand, I had the courage to utter
+that awful word tearlessly, and without one sigh.
+
+Our road led up through the valley of the Loajeri, after leaving its
+delta, a valley growing ever narrower, until it narrowed into a ravine
+choked by the now roaring, bellowing river, whose resistless rush seemed
+to affect the very air we breathed. It was getting oppressive, this
+narrowing ravine, and opportunely the road breasted a knoll, then a
+terrace, then a hill, and lastly a mountain, where we halted to encamp.
+As we prepared to select a camping-place, the Doctor silently pointed
+forward, and suddenly a dead silence reigned everywhere. The quinine
+which I had taken in the morning seemed to affect me in every crevice of
+my brain; but a bitter evil remained, and, though I trembled under the
+heavy weight of the Reilly rifle, I crept forward to where the Doctor
+was pointing. I found myself looking down a steep ravine, on the other
+bank of which a fine buffalo cow was scrambling upward. She had just
+reached the summit, and was turning round to survey her enemy, when I
+succeeded in planting a shot just behind the shoulder blade, and close
+to the spine, evoking from her a deep bellow of pain. "She is shot! she
+is shot!" exclaimed the Doctor; "that is a sure sign you have hit her."
+And the men even raised a shout at the prospect of meat. A second,
+planted in her spine, brought her to her knees, and a third ended her.
+We thus had another supply of provisions, which, cut up and dried over
+a fire, as the Wangwana are accustomed to do, would carry them far over
+the unpeopled wilderness before us. For the Doctor and myself, we had
+the tongue, the hump, and a few choice pieces salted down, and in a few
+days had prime corned beef. It is not inapt to state that the rifle had
+more commendations bestowed on it than the hunter by the Wangwana.
+
+The next day we continued the march eastward, under the guidance of
+our kirangozi; but it was evident, by the road he led us, that he knew
+nothing of the country, though, through his volubility, he had led us to
+believe that he knew all about Ngondo, Yombeh, and Pumburu's districts.
+When recalled from the head of the caravan, we were about to descend
+into the rapid Loajeri, and beyond it were three ranges of impassable
+mountains, which we were to cross in a north-easterly direction; quite
+out of our road. After consulting with the Doctor, I put myself at the
+head of the caravan, and following the spine of the ridge, struck off
+due east, regardless of how the road ran. At intervals a travelled road
+crossed our path, and, after following it a while, we came to the ford
+of the Loajeri. The Loajeri rises south and south-east of Kakungu Peak.
+We made the best we could of the road after crossing the river, until
+we reached the main path that runs from Karah to Ngondo and Pumburu, in
+Southern Kawendi.
+
+On the 9th, soon after leaving camp, we left the travelled path, and
+made for a gap in the are of hills before us, as Pumburu was at war with
+the people of Manya Msenge, a district of northern Kawendi. The country
+teemed with game, the buffaloes and zebras were plentiful. Among the
+conspicuous trees were the hyphene and borassus palm trees, and a tree
+bearing a fruit about the size of a 600-pounder cannon-ball, called by
+some natives "mabyah,"* according to the Doctor, the seeds of which are
+roasted and eaten. They are not to be recommended as food to Europeans.
+
+     * In the Kisawahili tongue, "mabyah," "mbyah, "byah," mean
+     bad, unpleasant.
+
+On the 10th, putting myself at the head of my men, with my compass in
+hand, I led the way east for three hours. A beautiful park-land was
+revealed to us; but the grass was very tall, and the rainy season, which
+had commenced in earnest, made my work excessively disagreeable. Through
+this tall grass, which was as high as my throat, I had to force my way,
+compass in hand, to lead the Expedition, as there was not the least sign
+of a road, and we were now in an untravelled country. We made our camp
+on a beautiful little stream flowing north; one of the feeders of the
+Rugufu River.
+
+The 11th still saw me plunging through the grass, which showered drops
+of rain on me every time I made a step forward. In two hours we crossed
+a small stream, with slippery syenitic rocks in its bed, showing the
+action of furious torrents. Mushrooms were in abundance, and very large.
+In crossing, an old pagazi of Unyamwezi, weather-beaten, uttered, in
+a deplorable tone, "My kibuyu is dead;" by which he meant that he had
+slipped, and in falling had broken his gourd, which in Kisawahili is
+"kibuyu."
+
+On the eastern bank we halted for lunch, and, after an hour and a half's
+march, arrived at another stream, which I took to be the Mtambu, at
+first from the similarity of the land, though my map informed me that it
+was impossible. The scenery around was very similar, and to the north we
+had cited a similar tabular hill to the "Magdala" Mount I had discovered
+north of Imrera, while going to the Malagarazi. Though we had only
+travelled three and a half hours the Doctor was very tired as the
+country was exceedingly rough.
+
+The next day, crossing several ranges, with glorious scenes of
+surpassing beauty everywhere around us, we came in view of a mighty and
+swift torrent, whose bed was sunk deep between enormous lofty walls of
+sandstone rock, where it roared and brawled with the noise of a little
+Niagara.
+
+Having seen our camp prepared on a picturesque knoll, I thought I would
+endeavour to procure some meat, which this interesting region seemed to
+promise. I sallied out with my little Winchester along the banks of the
+river eastward. I travelled for an hour or two, the prospect getting
+more picturesque and lovely, and then went up a ravine which looked very
+promising. Unsuccessful, I strode up the bank, and my astonishment may
+be conceived when I found myself directly in front of an elephant, who
+had his large broad ears held out like studding sails--the colossal
+monster, the incarnation of might of the African world. Methought when
+I saw his trunk stretched forward, like a warning finger, that I heard
+a voice say, "Siste, Venator!" But whether it did not proceed from my
+imagination or--No; I believe it proceeded from Kalulu, who must have
+shouted, "Tembo, tembo! bana yango!" "Lo! an elephant! an elephant, my
+master!"
+
+For the young rascal had fled as soon as he had witnessed the awful
+colossus in such close vicinage. Recovering from my astonishment, I
+thought it prudent to retire also--especially, with a pea-shooter loaded
+with treacherous sawdust cartridges in my hand. As I looked behind, I
+saw him waving his trunk, which I understood to mean, "Good-bye, young
+fellow; it is lucky for you you went in time, for I was going to pound
+you to a jelly."
+
+As I was congratulating myself, a wasp darted fiercely at me and planted
+its sting in my neck, and for that afternoon my anticipated pleasures
+were dispelled. Arriving at camp I found the men grumbling; their
+provisions were ended, and there was no prospect for three days, at
+least, of procuring any. With the improvidence usual with the gluttons,
+they had eaten their rations of grain, all their store of zebra and
+dried buffalo meat, and were now crying out that they were famished.
+
+The tracks of animals were numerous, but it being the rainy season the
+game was scattered everywhere; whereas, had we travelled during the dry
+season through these forests our larders might have been supplied fresh
+each day.
+
+Some time about 6 P.M., as the Doctor and I were taking our tea outside
+the tent, a herd of elephants, twelve in number, passed about 800 yards
+off. Our fundi, Asmani and Mabruki Kisesa, were immediately despatched
+in pursuit. I would have gone myself with the heavy Reilly rifle, only
+I was too much fatigued. We soon heard their guns firing, and hoped
+they were successful, as a plentiful supply of meat might then have been
+procured, while we ourselves would have secured one of the elephant's
+feet for a nice delicate roast; but within an hour they returned
+unsuccessful, having only drawn blood, some of which they exhibited to
+us on a leaf.
+
+It requires a very good rifle to kill an African elephant. A No. 8 bore
+with a Frazer's shell, planted in the temple, I believe, would drop an
+elephant each shot. Faulkner makes some extraordinary statements,
+about walking up in front of an elephant and planting a bullet in his
+forehead, killing him instantly. The tale, however, is so incredible
+that I would prefer not to believe it; especially when he states that
+the imprint of the muzzle of his rifle was on the elephant's trunk.
+African travellers--especially those with a taste for the chase--are too
+fond of relating that which borders on the incredible for ordinary men
+to believe them. Such stories must be taken with a large grain of salt,
+for the sake of the amusement they afford to readers at home. In future,
+whenever I hear a man state how he broke the back of an antelope at 600
+yards, I shall incline to believe a cipher had been added by a slip of
+the pen, or attribute it to a typographical error, for this is almost an
+impossible feat in an African forest. It may be done once, but it could
+never be done twice running. An antelope makes a very small target at
+600 yards distance; but, then, all these stories belong by right divine
+to the chasseur who travels to Africa for the sake only of sport.
+
+On the 13th we continued our march across several ridges; and the series
+of ascents and descents revealed to us valleys and mountains never
+before explored streams; rushing northward, swollen by the rains, and
+grand primeval forests, in whose twilight shade no white man ever walked
+before.
+
+On the 14th the same scenes were witnessed--an unbroken series of
+longitudinal ridges, parallel one with another and with Lake Tanganika.
+Eastward the faces of these ridges present abrupt scarps and terraces,
+rising from deep valleys, while the western declivities have gradual
+slopes. These are the peculiar features of Ukawendi, the eastern
+watershed of the Tanganika.
+
+In one of these valleys on this day we came across a colony of
+reddish-bearded monkeys, whose howls, or bellowing, rang amongst the
+cliffs as they discovered the caravan. I was not able to approach
+them, for they scrambled up trees and barked their defiance at me, then
+bounded to the ground as I still persisted in advancing; and they would
+have soon drawn me in pursuit if I had not suddenly remembered that my
+absence was halting the Expedition.
+
+About noon we sighted our Magdala--the grand towering mount whose
+upright frowning mass had attracted our eyes, as it lifted itself from
+above the plain in all its grandeur, when we were hurrying along the
+great ridge of Rusawa towards the "Crocodile" River. We recognised
+the old, mystic beauty of the tree-clad plain around it. Then it
+was bleached, and a filmy haze covered it lovingly; now it was vivid
+greenness. Every vegetable, plant, herb and tree, had sprung into quick
+life--the effect of the rains. Rivers that ran not in those hot summer
+days now fumed and rushed impetuously between thick belts of mighty
+timber, brawling hoarsely in the glades. We crossed many of these
+streams, all of which are feeders of the Rugufu.
+
+Beautiful, bewitching Ukawendi! By what shall I gauge the loveliness of
+the wild, free, luxuriant, spontaneous nature within its boundaries? By
+anything in Europe? No. By anything in Asia? Where? India, perhaps. Yes;
+or say Mingrelia and Imeritia. For there we have foaming rivers; we have
+picturesque hillocks; we have bold hills, ambitious mountains, and broad
+forests, with lofty solemn rows of trees, with clean straight stems,
+through which you can see far, lengthy vistas, as you see here. Only in
+Ukawendi you can almost behold the growth of vegetation; the earth is
+so generous, nature so kind and loving, that without entertaining any
+aspiration for a residence, or a wish to breathe the baleful atmosphere
+longer than is absolutely necessary, one feels insensibly drawn towards
+it, as the thought creeps into his mind, that though all is foul beneath
+the captivating, glamorous beauty of the land, the foulness might be
+removed by civilized people, and the whole region made as healthy as
+it is productive. Even while staggering under the pressure of the awful
+sickness, with mind getting more and more embittered, brain sometimes
+reeling with the shock of the constantly recurring fevers--though I
+knew how the malaria, rising out of that very fairness, was slowly
+undermining my constitution, and insidiously sapping the powers of mind
+and body--I regarded the alluring face of the land with a fatuous love,
+and felt a certain sadness steal over me as each day I was withdrawing
+myself from it, and felt disposed to quarrel with the fate that seemed
+to eject me out of Ukawendi.
+
+On the ninth day of our march from the shores of the Tanganika we
+again perceived our "Magdala Mount," rising like a dark cloud to the
+north-east, by which I knew that we were approaching Imrera, and that
+our Icarian attempt to cross the uninhabited jungle of Ukawendi would
+soon be crowned with success. Against the collective counsel of the
+guides, and hypothetical suggestions of the tired and hungry souls of
+our Expedition, I persisted in being guided only by the compass and my
+chart. The guides strenuously strove to induce me to alter my course and
+strike in a south-west direction, which, had I listened to them, would
+have undoubtedly taken me to South-western Ukonongo, or North-eastern
+Ufipa. The veteran and experienced soldiers asked mournfully if I were
+determined to kill them with famine, as the road I should have taken
+was north-east; but I preferred putting my trust in the compass. No sun
+shone upon us as we threaded our way through the primeval forest, by
+clumps of jungle, across streams, up steep ridges, and down into deep
+valleys. A thick haze covered the forests; rain often pelted us; the
+firmament was an unfathomable depth of grey vapour. The Doctor had
+perfect confidence in me, and I held on my way.
+
+As soon as we arrived at our camp the men scattered themselves through
+the forest to search for food. A grove of singwe trees was found close
+by. Mushrooms grew in abundance, and these sufficed to appease the
+gnawing hunger from which the people suffered. Had it not been such
+rainy weather I should have been enabled to procure game for the camp;
+but the fatigue which I suffered, and the fever which enervated me,
+utterly prevented me from moving out of the camp after we once came to
+a halt. The fear of lions, which were numerous in our vicinity, whose
+terrible roaring was heard by day and by night, daunted the hunters so
+much, that though I offered five doti of cloth for every animal brought
+to camp, none dared penetrate the gloomy glades, or awesome belts of
+timber, outside the friendly defence of the camp.
+
+The morning of the tenth day I assured the people that we were close
+to food; cheered the most amiable of them with promise of abundant
+provender, and hushed the most truculent knaves with a warning not to
+tempt my patience too much, lest we came to angry blows; and then
+struck away east by north through the forest, with the almost exhausted
+Expedition dragging itself weakly and painfully behind me. It was a most
+desperate position certainly, and I pitied the poor people far more than
+they pitied themselves; and though I fumed and stormed in their presence
+when they were disposed to lie down and give up, never was a man
+further from doing them injury. I was too proud of them; but under the
+circumstances it was dangerous--nay, suicidal--to appear doubtful or
+dubious of the road. The mere fact that I still held on my way according
+to the Doctor's little pearly monitor (the compass) had a grand moral
+effect on them, and though they demurred in plaintive terms and with
+pinched faces, they followed my footsteps with a trustfulness which
+quite affected me.
+
+For long miles we trudged over smooth sloping sward, with a vision of
+forest and park-land beauty on our right and left, and in front of us
+such as is rarely seen. At a pace that soon left the main body of the
+Expedition far behind, I strode on with a few gallant fellows, who,
+despite their heavy loads, kept pace with me. After a couple of hours we
+were ascending the easy slope of a ridge, which promised to decide in
+a few minutes the truth or the inaccuracy of my chart. Presently we
+arrived at the eastern edge of the ridge, and about five miles away, and
+1,000 feet below the high plateau on which we stood, we distinguished
+the valley of Imrera!
+
+By noon we were in our old camp. The natives gathered round, bringing
+supplies of food, and to congratulate us upon having gone to Ujiji
+and returned. But it was long before the last member of the Expedition
+arrived. The Doctor's feet were very sore, bleeding from the weary
+march. His shoes were in a very worn-out state, and he had so cut and
+slashed them with a knife to ease his blistered feet, that any man of
+our force would have refused them as a gift, no matter how ambitious he
+might be to encase his feet a la Wasungu.
+
+Asmani, the guide, was very much taken aback when he discovered that the
+tiny compass knew the way better than he did, and he declared it as his
+solemn opinion that it could not lie. He suffered much in reputation
+from having contested the palm with the "little thing," and ever
+afterwards his boasted knowledge of the country was considerably
+doubted.
+
+After halting a day to recruit ourselves, we continued our journey on
+the 18th January, 1872, towards Unyanyembe. A few miles beyond Imrera,
+Asmani lost the road again, and I was obliged to show it to him, by
+which I gained additional honour and credit as a leader and guide. My
+shoes were very bad, and it was difficult to decide whose were the worst
+in condition, the Doctor's or mine. A great change had come upon the
+face of the land since I had passed northward en route to Ujiji. The
+wild grapes now hung in clusters along the road; the corn ears were
+advanced enough to pluck and roast for food; the various plants shed
+their flowers; and the deep woods and grasses of the country were
+greener than ever.
+
+On the 19th we arrived at Mpokwa's deserted village. The Doctor's feet
+were very much chafed and sore by the marching. He had walked on foot
+all the way from Urimba, though he owned a donkey; while I, considerably
+to my shame be it said, had ridden occasionally to husband my strength,
+that I might be enabled to hunt after arrival at camp.
+
+Two huts were cleared for our use, but, just as we had made ourselves
+comfortable, our sharp-eyed fellows had discovered several herds of game
+in the plain west of Mpokwa. Hastily devouring a morsel of corn-bread
+with coffee, I hastened away, with Bilali for a gunbearer, taking
+with me the famous Reilly rifle of the Doctor and a supply of Fraser's
+shells. After plunging through a deep stream, and getting wet again,
+and pushing my way through a dense brake, I arrived at a thin belt of
+forest, through which I was obliged to crawl, and, in half an hour, I
+had arrived within one hundred and forty yards of a group of zebras,
+which were playfully biting each other under the shade of a large tree.
+Suddenly rising up, I attracted their attention; but the true old rifle
+was at my shoulder, and "crack--crack" went both barrels, and two fine
+zebras, a male and female, fell dead under the tree where they had
+stood. In a few seconds their throats were cut, and after giving the
+signal of my success, I was soon surrounded by a dozen of my men, who
+gave utterance to their delight by fulsome compliments to the merits of
+the rifle, though very few to me. When I returned to camp with the meat
+I received the congratulations of the Doctor, which I valued far higher,
+as he knew from long experience what shooting was.
+
+When the eatable portions of the two zebras were hung to the scale, we
+found, according to the Doctor's own figures, that we had 719 lbs. of
+good meat, which, divided among forty-four men, gave a little over
+16 lbs. to each person. Bombay, especially, was very happy, as he had
+dreamed a dream wherein I figured prominently as shooting animals down
+right and left; and, when he had seen me depart with that wonderful
+Reilly rifle he had not entertained a doubt of my success, and,
+accordingly, had commanded the men to be ready to go after me, as soon
+as they should hear the reports of the gun.
+
+The following is quoted from my Diary:
+
+January 20th, 1872.--To-day was a halt. On going out for a hunt I saw
+a herd of eleven giraffes. After crossing Mpokwa stream I succeeded in
+getting within one hundred and fifty yards of one of them, and fired at
+it; but, though it was wounded, I did not succeed in dropping it, though
+I desired the skin of one of them very much.
+
+In the afternoon I went out to the east of the village, and came to a
+herd of six giraffes. I wounded one of them, but it got off, despite my
+efforts.
+
+What remarkable creatures they are! How beautiful their large limpid
+eyes! I could have declared on oath that both shots had been a success,
+but they sheered off with the stately movements of a clipper about to
+tack. When they ran they had an ungainly, dislocated motion, somewhat
+like the contortions of an Indian nautch or a Theban danseuse--a dreamy,
+undulating movement, which even the tail, with its long fringe of black
+hair, seemed to partake of.
+
+The Doctor, who knew how to console an ardent but disappointed young
+hunter, attributed my non-success to shooting with leaden balls, which
+were too soft to penetrate the thick hide of the giraffes, and advised
+me to melt my zinc canteens with which to harden the lead. It was
+not the first time that I had cause to think the Doctor an admirable
+travelling companion; none knew so well how to console one for bad luck
+none knew so well how to elevate one in his own mind. If I killed a
+zebra, did not his friend Oswell--the South African hunter--and himself
+long ago come to the conclusion that zebra meat was the finest in
+Africa? If I shot a buffalo cow, she was sure to be the best of her
+kind, and her horns were worth while carrying home as specimens; and was
+she not fat? If I returned without anything, the game was very wild, or
+the people had made a noise, and the game had been frightened; and who
+could stalk animals already alarmed? Indeed, he was a most considerate
+companion, and, knowing him to be literally truthful, I was proud of his
+praise when successful, and when I failed I was easily consoled.
+
+Ibrahim, the old pagazi whose feelings had been so lacerated in
+Ukawendi, when his ancient kibuyu broke, before leaving Ujiji invested
+his cloth in a slave from Manyuema, who bore the name of "Ulimengo,"
+which signifies the "World." As we approached Mpokwa, Ulimengo absconded
+with all his master's property, consisting of a few cloths and a bag of
+salt, which he had thought of taking to Unyanyembe for trade. Ibrahim
+was inconsolable, and he kept lamenting his loss daily in such
+lugubrious tones that the people, instead of sympathizing, laughed at
+him. I asked him why he purchased such a slave, and, while he was with
+him, why he did not feed him? Replied he, tartly, "Was he not my slave?
+Was not the cloth with which I bought him mine? If the cloth was my own,
+could I not purchase what I liked? Why do you talk so?"
+
+Ibrahim's heart was made glad this evening by the return of Ulimengo
+with the salt and the cloth, and the one-eyed old man danced with his
+great joy, and came in all haste to impart to me the glad news. "Lo,
+the 'World' has come back. Sure. My salt and my cloth are with him also.
+Sure." To which I replied, that he had better feed him in future, as
+slaves required food as well as their masters.
+
+From 10 P.M. to midnight the Doctor was employed in taking observations
+from the star Canopus, the result of which was that he ascertained
+Mpokwa, district of Utanda, Ukonongo, to be in S. latitude 6 degrees 18
+minutes 40 seconds. On comparing it with its position as laid down in my
+map by dead reckoning, I found we differed by three miles; I having laid
+it down at 6 degrees 15 minutes south latitude.
+
+The day following was a halt. The Doctor's feet were so inflamed and
+sore that he could not bear his shoes on. My heels were also raw, and I
+viciously cut large circles out of my shoes to enable me to move about.
+
+Having converted my zinc canteens into bullets, and provided myself with
+a butcher and gun-bearer, I set out for the lovely park-land and plain
+west of Mpokwa stream, with the laudable resolution to obtain something;
+and seeing nothing in the plain, I crossed over a ridge, and came to
+a broad basin covered with tall grass, with clumps here and there of
+hyphene palm, with a stray mimosa or so scattered about. Nibbling off
+the branches of the latter, I saw a group of giraffes, and then
+began stalking them through the grass, taking advantage of the tall
+grass-grown ant-hills that I might approach the wary beasts before their
+great eyes could discover me. I contrived to come within 175 yards, by
+means of one of these curious hummocks; but beyond it no man could crawl
+without being observed--the grass was so thin and short. I took a long
+breath, wiped my perspiring brow, and sat down for a while; my black
+assistants also, like myself, were almost breathless with the exertion,
+and the high expectations roused by the near presence of the royal
+beasts. I toyed lovingly with the heavy Reilly, saw to my cartridges,
+and then stood up and turned, with my rifle ready; took one good, long,
+steady aim; then lowered it again to arrange the sights, lifted it up
+once more--dropped it. A giraffe half turned his body; for the last time
+I lifted it, took one quick sight at the region of the heart, and
+fired. He staggered, reeled, then made a short gallop; but the blood was
+spouting from the wound in a thick stream, and before he had gone 200
+yards he came to a dead halt, with his ears drawn back, and allowed
+me to come within twenty yards of him, when, receiving a zinc bullet
+through the head, he fell dead.
+
+"Allah ho, akhbar!" cried Khamisi, my butcher, fervently. "This is meat,
+master!"
+
+I was rather saddened than otherwise at seeing the noble animal
+stretched before me. If I could have given him his life back I think
+I should have done so. I thought it a great pity that such splendid
+animals, so well adapted for the service of man in Africa, could not
+be converted to some other use than that of food. Horses, mules, and
+donkeys died in these sickly regions; but what a blessing for Africa
+would it be if we could tame the giraffes and zebras for the use of
+explorers and traders! Mounted on a zebra, a man would be enabled to
+reach Ujiji in one month from Bagamoyo; whereas it took me over seven
+months to travel that distance!
+
+The dead giraffe measured 16 feet 9 inches from his right fore-hoof to
+the top of his head, and was one of the largest size, though some have
+been found to measure over 17 feet. He was spotted all over with large
+black, nearly round, patches.
+
+I left Khamisi in charge of the dead beast, while I returned to camp
+to send off men to cut it up, and convey the meat to our village. But
+Khamisi climbed a tree for fear of the lions, and the vultures settled
+on it, so that when the men arrived on the spot, the eyes, the tongue,
+and a great part of the posteriors were eaten up. What remained weighed
+as follows, when brought in and hung to the scales:
+
+1 hind leg.... 134 lbs.
+
+1 " .... 136 "
+
+1 fore leg.... 160 "
+
+I " .... 160 "
+
+Ribs...... 158 "
+
+Neck...... 74 "
+
+Rump...... 87 "
+
+Breast..... 46 "
+
+Liver..... 20 "
+
+Lungs..... 12 "
+
+Heart..... 6 "
+
+Total weight of eatable portions.. 993 lbs.
+
+Skin and head, 181 lbs.
+
+The three days following I suffered from a severe attack of fever, and
+was unable to stir from bed. I applied my usual remedies for it, which
+consisted of colocynth and quinine; but experience has shown me that
+an excessive use of the same cathartic weakens its effect, and that it
+would be well for travellers to take with them different medicines to
+cause proper action in the liver, such as colocynth, calomel, resin
+of jalap, Epsom salts; and that no quinine should be taken until such
+medicines shall have prepared the system for its reception.
+
+The Doctor's prescription for fever consists of 3 grains of resin of
+jalap, and 2 grains of calomel, with tincture of cardamoms put in just
+enough to prevent irritation of the stomach--made into the form of a
+pill--which is to be taken as soon as one begins to feel the excessive
+languor and weariness which is the sure forerunner of the African type
+of fever. An hour or two later a cup of coffee, unsugared and without
+milk, ought to be taken, to cause a quicker action. The Doctor
+also thinks that quinine should be taken with the pill; but my
+experience--though it weighs nothing against what he has endured--has
+proved to me that quinine is useless until after the medicine has taken
+effect. My stomach could never bear quinine unless subsequent to
+the cathartic. A well-known missionary at Constantinople recommends
+travellers to take 3 grains of tartar-emetic for the ejection of the
+bilious matter in the stomach; but the reverend doctor possibly forgets
+that much more of the system is disorganized than the stomach; and
+though in one or two cases of a slight attack, this remedy may have
+proved successful, it is altogether too violent for an enfeebled man in
+Africa. I have treated myself faithfully after this method three or
+four times; but I could not conscientiously recommend it. For cases of
+urticaria, I could recommend taking 3 grains of tartar-emetic; but then
+a stomach-pump would answer the purpose as well.
+
+On the 27th we set out for Misonghi. About half-way I saw the head of
+the Expedition on the run, and the motive seemed to be communicated
+quickly, man after man, to those behind, until my donkey commenced to
+kick, and lash behind with his heels. In a second, I was made aware of
+the cause of this excitement, by a cloud of wild bees buzzing about
+my head, three or four of which settled on my face, and stung me
+frightfully. We raced madly for about half a mile, behaving in as wild a
+manner as the poor bestung animals.
+
+As this was an unusually long march, I doubted if the Doctor could march
+it, because his feet were so sore, so I determined to send four men
+back with the kitanda; but the stout old hero refused to be carried, and
+walked all the way to camp after a march of eighteen miles. He had been
+stung dreadfully in the head and in the face; the bees had settled in
+handfuls in his hair; but, after partaking of a cup of warm tea and some
+food, he was as cheerful as if he had never travelled a mile.
+
+At Mrera, Central Ukonongo, we halted a day to grind grain, and
+to prepare the provision we should need during the transit of the
+wilderness between Mrera and Manyara.
+
+On the 31st of January, at Mwaru, Sultan Ka-mirambo, we met a caravan
+under the leadership of a slave of Sayd bin Habib, who came to visit us
+in our camp, which was hidden in a thick clump of jungle. After he was
+seated, and had taken his coffee, I asked,
+
+"What is thy news, my friend, that thou bast brought from Unyanyembe?"
+
+"My news is good, master."
+
+"How goes the war?"
+
+"Ah, Mirambo is where? He eats the hides even. He is famished. Sayd bin
+Habib, my master, hath possession of Kirira. The Arabs are thundering at
+the gates of Wilyankuru. Sayd bin Majid, who came from Ujiji to Usagozi
+in twenty days, hath taken and slain 'Moto' (Fire), the King. Simba
+of Kasera hath taken up arms for the defence of his father, Mkasiwa of
+Unyanyembe. The chief of Ugunda hath sent five hundred men to the field.
+Ough--Mirambo is where? In a month he will be dead of hunger."
+
+"Great and good news truly, my friend."
+
+"Yes-in the name of God."
+
+"And whither art thou bound with thy caravan?"
+
+"Sayd, the son of Majid, who came from Ujiji, hath told us of the road
+that the white man took, that he had arrived at Ujiji safely, and that
+he was on his way back to Unyanyembe. So we have thought that if the
+white man could go there, we could also. Lo, the Arabs come by the
+hundred by the white man's road, to get the ivory from Ujiji.
+
+"I am that white man."
+
+"You?"
+
+"Yes."
+
+"Why it was reported that you were dead--that you fought with the
+Wazavira."
+
+"Ah, my friend, these are the words of Njara, the son of Khamis. See"
+(pointing to Livingstone), "this is the white man, my father *, whom I
+saw at Ujiji. He is going with me to Unyanyembe to get his cloth, after
+which he will return to the great waters."
+
+     * It is a courteous custom in Africa to address elderly
+     people as "Baba," (Father.)
+
+"Wonderful!--thou sayest truly."
+
+"What has thou to tell me of the white man at Unyanyembe?"
+
+"Which white man?"
+
+"The white man I left in the house of Sayd, the son of Salim--my
+house--at Kwihara."
+
+"He is dead."
+
+"Dead!"
+
+"True."
+
+"You do not mean to say the white man is dead?"
+
+"True--he is dead."
+
+"How long ago?"
+
+"Many months now."
+
+"What did he die of?"
+
+"Homa (fever)."
+
+"Any more of my people dead?"
+
+"I know not."
+
+"Enough." I looked sympathetically at the Doctor, and he replied,
+
+"I told you so. When you described him to me as a drunken man, I knew he
+could not live. Men who have been habitual drunkards cannot live in
+this country, any more than men who have become slaves to other vices.
+I attribute the deaths that occurred in my expedition on the Zambezi to
+much the same cause."
+
+"Ah, Doctor, there are two of us gone. I shall be the third, if this
+fever lasts much longer."
+
+"Oh no, not at all. If you would have died from fever, you would have
+died at Ujiji when you had that severe attack of remittent. Don't think
+of it. Your fever now is only the result of exposure to wet. I never
+travel during the wet season. This time I have travelled because I was
+anxious, and I did not wish to detain you at Ujiji."
+
+"Well, there is nothing like a good friend at one's back in this country
+to encourage him, and keep his spirits up. Poor Shaw! I am sorry--very
+sorry for him. How many times have I not endeavoured to cheer him up!
+But there was no life in him. And among the last words I said to him,
+before parting, were, 'Remember, if you return to Unyanyembe, you die!'"
+
+We also obtained news from the chief of Sayd bin Habib's caravan that
+several packets of letters and newspapers, and boxes, had arrived for me
+from Zanzibar by my messengers and Arabs; that Selim, the son of Sheikh
+Hashid of Zanzibar, was amongst the latest arrivals in Unyanyembe. The
+Doctor also reminded me with the utmost good-nature that, according to
+his accounts, he had a stock of jellies and crackers, soups, fish, and
+potted ham, besides cheese, awaiting him in Unyanyembe, and that he
+would be delighted to share his good things; whereupon I was greatly
+cheered, and, during the repeated attacks of fever I suffered about this
+time, my imagination loved to dwell upon the luxuries at Unyanyembe.
+I pictured myself devouring the hams and crackers and jellies like a
+madman. I lived on my raving fancies. My poor vexed brain rioted on such
+homely things as wheaten bread and butter, hams, bacon, caviare, and I
+would have thought no price too high to pay for them. Though so far
+away and out of the pale of Europe and America, it was a pleasure to
+me, during the _athumia_ or despondency into which I was plunged by ever
+recurring fevers, to dwell upon them. I wondered that people who had
+access to such luxuries should ever get sick, and become tired of life.
+I thought that if a wheaten loaf with a nice pat of fresh butter were
+presented to me, I would be able, though dying, to spring up and dance a
+wild fandango.
+
+Though we lacked the good things of this life above named, we possessed
+salted giraffe and pickled zebra tongues; we had ugali made by Halimah
+herself; we had sweet potatoes, tea, coffee, dampers, or slap jacks; but
+I was tired of them. My enfeebled stomach, harrowed and irritated with
+medicinal compounds, with ipecac, colocynth, tartar-emetic, quinine,
+and such things, protested against the coarse food. "Oh, for a wheaten
+loaf!" my soul cried in agony. "Five hundred dollars for one loaf of
+bread!"
+
+The Doctor, somehow or another, despite the incessant rain, the dew,
+fog, and drizzle, the marching, and sore feet, ate like a hero, and I
+manfully, sternly, resolved to imitate the persevering attention he paid
+to the welfare of his gastric powers; but I miserably failed.
+
+Dr. Livingstone possesses all the attainments of a traveller. His
+knowledge is great about everything concerning Africa--the rocks, the
+trees, the fruits, and their virtues, are known to him. He is also full
+of philosophic reflections upon ethnological matter. With camp-craft,
+with its cunning devices, he is au fait. His bed is luxurious as a
+spring mattress. Each night he has it made under his own supervision.
+First, he has two straight poles cut, three or four inches in diameter;
+which are laid parallel one with another, at the distance of two feet;
+across these poles are laid short sticks, saplings, three feet long,
+and over them is laid a thick pile of grass; then comes a piece of
+waterproof canvas and blankets--and thus a bed has been improvised fit
+for a king.
+
+It was at Livingstone's instigation I purchased milch goats, by which,
+since leaving Ujiji, we have had a supply of fresh milk for our tea
+and coffee three times a day. Apropos of this, we are great drinkers of
+these welcome stimulants; we seldom halt drinking until we have each
+had six or seven cups. We have also been able to provide ourselves with
+music, which, though harsh, is better than none. I mean the musical
+screech of parrots from Manyuema.
+
+Half-way between Mwaru--Kamirambo's village--and the deserted Tongoni of
+Ukamba, I carved the Doctor's initials and my own on a large tree, with
+the date February 2nd. I have been twice guilty of this in Africa once
+when we were famishing in Southern Uvinza I inscribed the date, my
+initials, and the word "Starving," in large letters on the trunk of a
+sycamore.
+
+In passing through the forest of Ukamba, we saw the bleached skull of
+an unfortunate victim to the privations of travel. Referring to it, the
+Doctor remarked that he could never pass through an African forest, with
+its solemn stillness and serenity, without wishing to be buried quietly
+under the dead leaves, where he would be sure to rest undisturbed. In
+England there was no elbow-room, the graves were often desecrated; and
+ever since he had buried his wife in the woods of Shupanga he had sighed
+for just such a spot, where his weary bones would receive the eternal
+rest they coveted.
+
+The same evening, when the tent door was down, and the interior was made
+cheerful by the light of a paraffin candle, the Doctor related to me
+some incidents respecting the career and the death of his eldest son,
+Robert. Readers of Livingstone's first book, 'South Africa,' without
+which no boy should be, will probably recollect the dying Sebituane's
+regard for the little boy "Robert." Mrs. Livingstone and family were
+taken to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence sent to England, where Robert
+was put in the charge of a tutor; but wearied of inactivity, when he
+was about eighteen, he left Scotland and came to Natal, whence he
+endeavoured to reach his father. Unsuccessful in his attempt, he took
+ship and sailed for New York, and enlisted in the Northern Army, in a
+New Hampshire regiment of Volunteers, discarding his own name of Robert
+Moffatt Livingstone, and taking that of Rupert Vincent that his tutor,
+who seems to have been ignorant of his duties to the youth, might not
+find him. From one of the battles before Richmond, he was conveyed to a
+North Carolina hospital, where he died from his wounds.
+
+On the 7th of February we arrived at the Gombe, and camped near one of
+its largest lakes. This lake is probably several miles in length, and
+swarms with hippopotami and crocodiles.
+
+From this camp I despatched Ferajji, the cook, and Chowpereh to
+Unyanyembe, to bring the letters and medicines that were sent to me from
+Zanzibar, and meet us at Ugunda, while the next day we moved to our
+old quarters on the Gombe, where we were first introduced to the real
+hunter's paradise in Central Africa. The rain had scattered the greater
+number of the herds, but there was plenty of game in the vicinity. Soon
+after breakfast I took Khamisi and Kalulu with me for a hunt. After a
+long walk we arrived near a thin jungle, where I discovered the tracks
+of several animals--boar, antelope, elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus,
+and an unusual number of imprints of the lion's paw. Suddenly I heard
+Khamisi say, "Master, master! here is a 'simba!' (lion);" and he came
+up to me trembling with excitement and fear--for the young fellow was
+an arrant coward--to point out the head of a beast, which could be seen
+just above the tall grass, looking steadily towards us. It immediately
+afterwards bounded from side to side, but the grass was so high that it
+was impossible to tell exactly what it was. Taking advantage of a tree
+in my front, I crept quietly onwards, intending to rest the heavy rifle
+against it, as I was so weak from the effects of several fevers that I
+felt myself utterly incapable of supporting my rifle for a steady aim.
+But my surprise was great when I cautiously laid it against the tree,
+and then directed its muzzle to the spot where I had seen him stand.
+Looking further away--to where the grass was thin and scant--I saw the
+animal bound along at a great rate, and that it was a lion: the noble
+monarch of the forest was in full flight! From that moment I ceased to
+regard him as the "mightiest among the brutes;" or his roar as anything
+more fearful in broad daylight than a sucking dove's.
+
+The next day was also a halt, and unable to contain my longing for the
+chase, where there used to be such a concourse of game of all kinds,
+soon after morning coffee, and after despatching a couple of men with
+presents to my friend Ma-manyara, of ammonia-bottle memory, I sauntered
+out once more for the park. Not five hundred yards from the camp, myself
+and men were suddenly halted by hearing in our immediate vicinity,
+probably within fifty yards or so, a chorus of roars, issuing from a
+triplet of lions. Instinctively my fingers raised the two hammers, as
+I expected a general onset on me; for though one lion might fly, it
+was hardly credible that three should. While looking keenly about I
+detected, within easy rifle-shot, a fine hartebeest, trembling and
+cowering behind a tree, as if it expected the fangs of the lion in its
+neck. Though it had its back turned to me, I thought a bullet might
+plough its way to a vital part, and without a moment's hesitation I
+aimed and fired. The animal gave a tremendous jump, as if it intended
+to take a flying leap through the tree; but recovering itself it dashed
+through the underbrush in a different direction from that in which I
+supposed the lions to be, and I never saw it again, though I knew I
+had struck it from the bloody trail it left; neither did I see nor hear
+anything more of the lions. I searched far and wide over the park-land
+for prey of some kind, but was compelled to return unsuccessful to camp.
+
+Disgusted with my failure, we started a little after noon for Manyara,
+at which place we were hospitably greeted by my friend, who had sent men
+to tell me that his white brother must not halt in the woods but must
+come to his village. We received a present of honey and food from
+the chief, which was most welcome to us in our condition. Here was an
+instance of that friendly disposition among Central African chiefs when
+they have not been spoiled by the Arabs, which Dr. Livingstone found
+among the Babisa and Ba-ulungu, and in Manyuema. I received the same
+friendly recognition from all the chiefs, from Imrera, in Ukawendi, to
+Unyanyembe, as I did from Mamanyara.
+
+On the 14th we arrived at Ugunda, and soon after we had established
+ourselves comfortably in a hut which the chief lent us for our use, in
+came Ferajji and Chowpereh, bringing with them Sarmean and Uledi
+Manwa Sera, who, it will be recollected, were the two soldiers sent
+to Zanzibar with letters and who should Sarmean have in charge but the
+deserter Hamdallah, who decamped at Manyara, as we were going to Ujiji.
+This fellow, it seems, had halted at Kigandu, and had informed the chief
+and the doctor of the village that he had been sent by the white man to
+take back the cloth left there for the cure of Mabruk Saleem; and the
+simple chief had commanded it to be given up to him upon his mere word,
+in consequence of which the sick man had died.
+
+Upon Sarmean's arrival in Unyanyembe from Zanzibar, about fifty days
+after the Expedition had departed for Ujiji the news he received was
+that the white man (Shaw) was dead; and that a man called Hamdallah,
+who had engaged himself as one of my guides, but who had shortly after
+returned, was at Unyanyembe. He had left him unmolested until the
+appearance of Ferajji and his companion, when they at once, in a body,
+made a descent on his hut and secured him. With the zeal which always
+distinguished him in my service, Sarmean had procured a forked pole,
+between the prongs of which the neck of the absconder was placed; and
+a cross stick, firmly lashed, effectually prevented him from relieving
+himself of the incumbrance attached to him so deftly.
+
+There were no less than seven packets of letters and newspapers from
+Zanzibar, which had been collecting during my absence from Unyanyembe.
+These had been intrusted at various times to the chiefs of caravans, who
+had faithfully delivered them at my tembe, according to their promise
+to the Consul. There was one packet for me, which contained two or
+three letters for Dr. Livingstone, to whom, of course, they were at once
+transferred, with my congratulations. In the same packet there was also
+a letter to me from the British Consul at Zanzibar requesting me to take
+charge of Livingstone's goods and do the best I could to forward them on
+to him, dated 25th September, 1871, five days after I left Unyanyembe on
+my apparently hopeless task.
+
+"Well, Doctor," said I to Livingstone, "the English Consul requests me
+to do all I can to push forward your goods to you. I am sorry that I did
+not get the authority sooner, for I should have attempted it; but in the
+absence of these instructions I have done the best I could by pushing
+you towards the goods. The mountain has not been able to advance
+towards Mohammed, but Mohammed has been compelled to advance towards the
+mountain."
+
+But Dr. Livingstone was too deeply engrossed in his own letters from
+home, which were just a year old.
+
+I received good and bad news from New York, but the good news was
+subsequent, and wiped out all feelings that might have been evoked had I
+received the bad only. But the newspapers, nearly a hundred of them, New
+York, Boston, and London journals, were full of most wonderful news. The
+Paris Commune was in arms against the National Assembly; the Tuileries,
+the Louvre, and the ancient city Lutetia Parisiorum had been set in
+flames by the blackguards of Saint-Antoine! French troops massacring
+and murdering men, women, and children; rampant diabolism, and incarnate
+revenge were at work in the most beautiful city in the world! Fair women
+converted into demons, and dragged by ruffianly soldiery through the
+streets to universal execration and pitiless death; children of tender
+age pinned to the earth and bayoneted; men innocent or not, shot, cut,
+stabbed, slashed, destroyed--a whole city given up to the summa injuria
+of an infuriate, reckless, and brutal army! Oh France! Oh Frenchmen!
+Such things are unknown even in the heart of barbarous Central Africa.
+We spurned the newspapers with our feet; and for relief to sickened
+hearts gazed on the comic side of our world, as illustrated in the
+innocent pages of 'Punch.' Poor 'Punch!' good-hearted, kindly-natured
+'Punch!' a traveller's benison on thee! Thy jokes were as physic; thy
+innocent satire was provocative of hysteric mirth.
+
+Our doors were crowded with curious natives, who looked with
+indescribable wonder at the enormous sheets. I heard them repeat the
+words, "Khabari Kisungu"--white man's news--often, and heard them
+discussing the nature of such a quantity of news, and expressing their
+belief that the "Wasungu" were "mbyah sana," and very "mkali;" by which
+they meant to say that the white men were very wicked, and very smart
+and clever though the term wicked is often employed to express high
+admiration.
+
+On the fourth day from Ugunda, or the 18th of February, and the
+fifty-third day from Ujiji, we made our appearance with flags flying
+and guns firing in the valley of Kwihara, and when the Doctor and myself
+passed through the portals of my old quarters I formally welcomed him to
+Unyanyembe and to my house.
+
+Since the day I had left the Arabs, sick and, weary almost with my
+life, but, nevertheless, imbued with the high hope that my mission would
+succeed, 131 days had elapsed--with what vicissitudes of fortune the
+reader well knows--during which time I had journeyed over 1,200 miles.
+
+The myth after which I travelled through the wilderness proved to be
+a fact; and never was the fact more apparent than when the Living Man
+walked with me arm in arm to my old room, and I said to him, "Doctor, we
+are at last HOME!"
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV. -- HOMEWARD BOUND.--LIVINGSTONE'S LAST WORDS--THE FINAL
+FAREWELL
+
+
+Unyanyembe was now to me a terrestrial Paradise. Livingstone was no less
+happy; he was in comfortable quarters, which were a palace compared to
+his hut in Ujiji. Our store-rooms were full of the good things of this
+life, besides cloth, beads, wire, and the thousand and one impedimenta
+and paraphernalia of travel with which I had loaded over one hundred and
+fifty men at Bagamoyo. I had seventy-four loads of miscellaneous things,
+the most valuable of which were now to be turned over to Livingstone,
+for his march back to the sources of the Nile.
+
+It was a great day with, us when, with hammer and chisel, I broke open
+the Doctor's boxes, that we might feast our famished stomachs on the
+luxuries which were to redeem us from the effect of the cacotrophic
+dourra and maize food we had been subjected to in the wilderness.
+I conscientiously believed that a diet on potted ham, crackers, and
+jellies would make me as invincible as Talus, and that I only required
+a stout flail to be able to drive the mighty Wagogo into the regions of
+annihilation, should they dare even to wink in a manner I disapproved.
+
+The first box opened contained three tins of biscuits, six tins of
+potted hams--tiny things, not much larger than thimbles, which, when
+opened, proved to be nothing more than a table-spoonful of minced meat
+plentifully seasoned with pepper: the Doctor's stores fell five hundred
+degrees below zero in my estimation. Next were brought out five pots of
+jam, one of which was opened--this was also a delusion. The stone jars
+weighed a pound, and in each was found a little over a tea-spoonful
+of jam. Verily, we began to think our hopes and expectations had
+been raised to too high a pitch. Three bottles of curry were next
+produced--but who cares for curry? Another box was opened, and out
+tumbled a fat dumpy Dutch cheese, hard as a brick, but sound and good;
+though it is bad for the liver in Unyamwezi. Then another cheese was
+seen, but this was all eaten up--it was hollow and a fraud. The third
+box contained nothing but two sugar loaves; the fourth, candles; the
+fifth, bottles of salt, Harvey, Worcester, and Reading sauces, essence
+of anchovies, pepper, and mustard. Bless me! what food were these for
+the revivifying of a moribund such as I was! The sixth box contained
+four shirts, two pairs of stout shoes, some stockings and shoe-strings,
+which delighted the Doctor so much when he tried them on that he
+exclaimed, "Richard is himself again!" "That man," said I, "whoever he
+is, is a friend, indeed." "Yes, that is my friend Waller."
+
+The five other boxes contained potted meat and soups; but the twelfth,
+containing one dozen bottles of medicinal brandy, was gone; and a strict
+cross-examination of Asmani, the head man of Livingstone's caravan,
+elicited the fact, that not only was one case of brandy missing, but
+also two bales of cloth and four bags of the most valuable beads in
+Africa--sami-sami--which are as gold with the natives.
+
+I was grievously disappointed after the stores had been examined;
+everything proved to be deceptions in my jaundiced eyes. Out of the
+tins of biscuits when opened, there was only one sound box; the whole of
+which would not make one full meal. The soups--who cared for meat soups
+in Africa? Are there no bullocks, and sheep, and goats in the land, from
+which far better soup can be made than any that was ever potted? Peas,
+or any other kind of vegetable soup, would have been a luxury; but
+chicken and game soups!--what nonsense!
+
+I then overhauled my own stores. I found some fine old brandy and one
+bottle of champagne still left; though it was evident, in looking at the
+cloth bales, that dishonesty had been at work; and some person
+happened to suggest Asmani--the head man sent by Dr. Kirk in charge
+of Livingstone's goods--as the guilty party. Upon his treasures being
+examined, I found eight or ten coloured cloths, with the mark of my own
+agent at Zanzibar on them. As he was unable to give a clear account of
+how they came in his box, they were at once confiscated, and distributed
+among the most deserving of the Doctor's people. Some of the watchmen
+also accused him of having entered into my store-room, and of having
+abstracted two or three gorah of domestics from my bales, and of having,
+some days afterwards, snatched the keys from the hands of one of my men,
+and broken them, lest other people might enter, and find evidences of
+his guilt. As Asmani was proved to be another of the "moral idiots,"
+Livingstone discharged him on the spot. Had we not arrived so soon at
+Unyanyembe, it is probable that the entire stock sent from Zanzibar had
+in time disappeared.
+
+Unyanyembe being rich in fruits, grain, and cattle, we determined to
+have our Christmas dinner over again in style, and, being fortunately in
+pretty good health, I was enabled to superintend its preparation. Never
+was such prodigality seen in a tembe of Unyamwezi as was seen in ours,
+nor were ever such delicacies provided.
+
+There were but few Arabs in Unyanyembe when we arrived, as they were
+investing the stronghold of Mirambo. About a week after our return,
+"the little mannikin," Sheikh Sayd bin Salim--El Wali--who was the
+commander-in-chief of their forces, came to Kwihara from the front. But
+the little Sheikh was in no great hurry to greet the man he had wronged
+so much. As soon as we heard of his arrival we took the opportunity to
+send men immediately after the goods which were forwarded to the Wali's
+care soon after Livingstone's departure for Mikindany Bay. The first
+time we sent men for them the governor declared himself too sick to
+attend to such matters, but the second day they were surrendered, with
+a request that the Doctor would not be very angry at their condition, as
+the white ants had destroyed everything.
+
+The stores this man had detained at Unyanyembe were in a most sorry
+state. The expenses were prepaid for their carriage to Ujiji, but the
+goods had been purposely detained at this place by Sayd bin Salim since
+1867 that he might satisfy his appetite for liquor, and probably fall
+heir to two valuable guns that were known to be with them. The white
+ants had not only eaten up bodily the box in which the guns were packed,
+but they had also eaten the gunstocks. The barrels were corroded, and
+the locks were quite destroyed. The brandy bottles, most singular
+to relate, had also fallen a prey to the voracious and irresistible
+destroyers the white ants--and, by some unaccountable means, they had
+imbibed the potent Hennessy, and replaced the corks with corn-cobs. The
+medicines had also vanished, and the zinc pots in which they had been
+snugly packed up were destroyed by corrosion. Two bottles of brandy and
+one small zinc case of medicines only were saved out of the otherwise
+utter wreck.
+
+I also begged the Doctor to send to Sheikh Sayd, and ask him if he had
+received the two letters despatched by him upon his first arrival at
+Ujiji for Dr. Kirk and Lord Clarendon; and if he had forwarded them to
+the coast, as he was desired to do. The reply to the messengers was in
+the affirmative; and, subsequently, I obtained the same answer in the
+presence of the Doctor,
+
+On the 222nd of February, the pouring rain, which had dogged us the
+entire distance from Ujiji, ceased, and we had now beautiful weather;
+and while I prepared for the homeward march, the Doctor was busy writing
+his letters, and entering his notes into his journal, which I was to
+take to his family. When not thus employed, we paid visits to the Arabs
+at Tabora, by whom we were both received with that bounteous hospitality
+for which they are celebrated.
+
+Among the goods turned over by me to Dr. Livingstone, while assorting
+such cloths as I wished to retain for my homeward trip, were--
+
+                                      Doti.   Yards.
+
+First-class American sheeting... 285 = 1140
+
+  "         Kaniki (blue stuff)...  16  =   64
+
+Medium " (blue stuff)... 60 = 240
+
+  "          Dabwani cloth....  41  =   64
+
+             Barsati cloths....   28  =  112
+
+             Printed handkerchiefs..  70  =  280
+
+Medium Rehani cloth..... 127 = 508
+
+  "    Ismahili  "       ....  20  =   80
+
+  "    Sohari    ".....        20  =   80
+
+4 pieces fine Kungura (red check) 22 = 88
+
+4 gorah Rehani....... 8 = 32
+
+Total number of cloths. 697 = 2788
+
+Besides:
+
+Cloth, 2788 yards.
+
+Assorted beads, 16 sacks, weight = 992 lbs.
+
+Brass wire, Nos. 5 and 6; 10 fraslilah = 350 lbs.
+
+1 canvas tent, waterproof.
+
+1 air-bed.
+
+1 boat (canvas}
+
+1 bag of tools, carpenter's.
+
+1 rip saw.
+
+2 barrels of tar.
+
+12 sheets of ship's copper = 60 lbs.
+
+Clothes.
+
+1 Jocelyn breech-loader (metallic cartridge).
+
+1 Starr's " " "
+
+1 Henry (16-shooter) " "
+
+1 revolver.
+
+200 rounds revolver ammunition.
+
+2000 " Jocelyn and Starrs ammunition.
+
+1500 " Henry rifle ammunition.
+
+Cooking utensils, medicine chest, books, sextant, canvas bags, &c., &c.,
+&c.
+
+The above made a total of about forty loads. Many things in the list
+would have brought fancy prices in Unyanyembe, especially the carbines
+and ammunition, the saw, carpenter's tools the beads, and wire. Out of
+the thirty-three loads which were stored for him in my tembe--the stock
+sent to Livingstone, Nov. 1,1870--but few of them would be available for
+his return trip to Rua and Manyuema. The 696 doti of cloth which were
+left to him formed the only marketable articles of value he possessed;
+and in Manyuema, where the natives manufactured their own cloth, such
+an article would be considered a drug; while my beads and wire, with
+economy, would suffice to keep him and his men over two years in those
+regions. His own cloth, and what I gave him, made in the aggregate 1,393
+doti, which, at 2 doti per day for food, were sufficient to keep him and
+sixty men 696 days. He had thus four years' supplies. The only articles
+he lacked to make a new and completely fitted-up expedition were the
+following, a list of which he and I drew up;--
+
+A few tins of American wheat-flour.    "   "     soda crackers.
+    "   "     preserved fruits
+A few tins of salmon, 10 lbs. Hyson tea. Some sewing thread and needles.
+1 dozen official envelopes. 'Nautical Almanac' for 1872 and 1873. 1
+blank journal. 1 chronometer, stopped. 1 chain for refractory people.
+
+With the articles just named he would have a total of seventy loads,
+but without carriers they were an incumbrance to him; for, with only
+the nine men which he now had, he could go nowhere with such a splendid
+assortment of goods. I was therefore commissioned to enlist,--as soon as
+I reached Zanzibar,--fifty freemen, arm them with a gun and hatchet each
+man, besides accoutrements, and to purchase two thousand bullets, one
+thousand flints, and ten kegs of gunpowder. The men were to act as
+carriers, to follow wherever Livingstone might desire to go. For,
+without men, he was simply tantalized with the aspirations roused in him
+by the knowledge that he had abundance of means, which were irrealizable
+without carriers. All the wealth of London and New York piled before
+him were totally unavailable to him without the means of locomotion. No
+Mnyamwezi engages himself as carrier during war-time. You who have read
+the diary of my 'Life in Unyanyembe' know what stubborn Conservatives
+the Wanyamwezi are. A duty lay yet before me which I owed to my
+illustrious companion, and that was to hurry to the coast as if on a
+matter of life and death--act for him in the matter of enlisting men as
+if he were there himself--to work for him with the same zeal as I would
+for myself--not to halt or rest until his desires should be gratified,
+And this I vowed to do; but it was a death-blow to my project of going
+down the Nile, and getting news of Sir S. Baker.
+
+The Doctor's task of writing his letters was ended. He delivered into my
+hand twenty letters for Great Britain, six for Bombay, two for New York,
+and one for Zanzibar. The two letters for New York were for James Gordon
+Bennett, junior, as he alone, not his father, was responsible for
+the Expedition sent under my command. I beg the reader's pardon for
+republishing one of these letters here, as its spirit and style indicate
+the man, the mere knowledge of whose life or death was worth a costly
+Expedition.
+
+Ujiji, on Tanganika, East Africa, November, 1871.
+
+James Gordon Bennett, Jr., Esq.
+
+My Dear Sir,--It is in general somewhat difficult to write to one we
+have never seen--it feels so much like addressing an abstract idea--but
+the presence of your representative, Mr. H. M. Stanley, in this distant
+region takes away the strangeness I should otherwise have felt, and in
+writing to thank you for the extreme kindness that prompted you to send
+him, I feel quite at home.
+
+If I explain the forlorn condition in which he found me you will easily
+perceive that I have good reason to use very strong expressions of
+gratitude. I came to Ujiji off a tramp of between four hundred and five
+hundred miles, beneath a blazing vertical sun, having been baffled,
+worried, defeated and forced to return, when almost in sight of the end
+of the geographical part of my mission, by a number of half-caste Moslem
+slaves sent to me from Zanzibar, instead of men. The sore heart made
+still sorer by the woeful sights I had seen of man's inhumanity to man
+racked and told on the bodily frame, and depressed it beyond measure.
+I thought that I was dying on my feet. It is not too much to say that
+almost every step of the weary sultry way was in pain, and I reached
+Ujiji a mere ruckle of bones.
+
+There I found that some five hundred pounds' sterling worth of goods
+which I had ordered from Zanzibar had unaccountably been entrusted to
+a drunken half-caste Moslem tailor, who, after squandering them for
+sixteen months on the way to Ujiji; finished up by selling off all that
+remained for slaves and ivory for himself. He had "divined" on the
+Koran and found that I was dead. He had also written to the Governor of
+Unyanyembe that he had sent slaves after me to Manyuema, who returned
+and reported my decease, and begged permission to sell off the few goods
+that his drunken appetite had spared.
+
+He, however, knew perfectly well, from men who had seen me, that I was
+alive, and waiting for the goods and men; but as for morality, he is
+evidently an idiot, and there being no law here except that of the
+dagger or musket, I had to sit down in great weakness, destitute of
+everything save a few barter cloths and beads, which I had taken the
+precaution to leave here in case of extreme need.
+
+The near prospect of beggary among Ujijians made me miserable.
+
+I could not despair, because I laughed so much at a friend who, on
+reaching the mouth of the Zambezi, said that he was tempted to despair
+on breaking the photograph of his wife. We could have no success after
+that. Afterward the idea of despair had to me such a strong smack of the
+ludicrous that it was out of the question.
+
+Well, when I had got to about the lowest verge, vague rumors of an
+English visitor reached me. I thought of myself as the man who went down
+from Jerusalem to Jericho; but neither priest, Levite, nor Samaritan
+could possibly pass my way. Yet the good Samaritan was close at hand,
+and one of my people rushed up at the top of his speed, and, in great
+excitement, gasped out, "An Englishman coming! I see him!" and off he
+darted to meet him.
+
+An American flag, the first ever seen in these parts, at the head of a
+caravan, told me the nationality of the stranger.
+
+I am as cold and non-demonstrative as we islanders are usually
+reputed to be; but your kindness made my frame thrill. It was, indeed,
+overwhelming, and I said in my soul, "Let the richest blessings descend
+from the Highest on you and yours!"
+
+The news Mr. Stanley had to tell was thrilling. The mighty political
+changes on the Continent; the success of the Atlantic cables; the
+election of General Grant, and many other topics' riveted my attention
+for days together, and had an immediate and beneficial effect on my
+health. I had been without news from home for years save what I could
+glean from a few 'Saturday Reviews' and 'Punch' of 1868. The appetite
+revived, and in a week I began to feel strong again.
+
+Mr. Stanley brought a most kind and encouraging despatch from Lord
+Clarendon (whose loss I sincerely deplore), the first I have received
+from the Foreign Office since 1866, and information that the British
+Government had kindly sent a thousand pounds sterling to my aid. Up to
+his arrival I was not aware of any pecuniary aid. I came unsalaried, but
+this want is now happily repaired, and I am anxious that you and all my
+friends should know that, though uncheered by letter, I have stuck
+to the task which my friend Sir Roderick Murchison set me with "John
+Bullish" tenacity, believing that all would come right at last.
+
+The watershed of South Central Africa is over seven hundred wiles in
+length. The fountains thereon are almost innumerable--that is, it would
+take a man's lifetime to count them. From the watershed they converge
+into four large rivers, and these again into two mighty streams in the
+great Nile valley, which begins in ten degrees to twelve degrees south
+latitude. It was long ere light dawned on the ancient problem and gave
+me a clear idea of the drainage. I had to feel my way, and every step
+of the way, and was, generally, groping in the dark--for who cared where
+the rivers ran? "We drank our fill and let the rest run by."
+
+The Portuguese who visited Cazembe asked for slaves and ivory, and
+heard of nothing else. I asked about the waters, questioned and
+cross-questioned, until I was almost afraid of being set down as
+afflicted with hydrocephalus.
+
+My last work, in which I have been greatly hindered from want of
+suitable attendants, was following the central line of drainage down
+through the country of the cannibals, called Manyuema, or, shortly
+Manyema. This line of drainage has four large lakes in it. The fourth I
+was near when obliged to turn. It is from one to three miles broad,
+and never can be reached at any point, or at any time of the year. Two
+western drains, the Lufira, or Bartle Frere's River, flow into it at
+Lake Kamolondo. Then the great River Lomame flows through Lake Lincoln
+into it too, and seems to form the western arm of the Nile, on which
+Petherick traded.
+
+Now, I knew about six hundred miles of the watershed, and unfortunately
+the seventh hundred is the most interesting of the whole; for in it, if
+I am not mistaken, four fountains arise from an earthen mound, and the
+last of the four becomes, at no great distance off, a large river.
+
+Two of these run north to Egypt, Lufira and Lomame, and two run south
+into inner Ethiopia, as the Leambaye, or Upper Zambezi, and the Kaful.
+
+Are not these the sources of the Nile mentioned by the Secretary of
+Minerva, in the city of Sais, to Herodotus?
+
+I have heard of them so often, and at great distances off, that I cannot
+doubt their existence, and in spite of the sore longing for home that
+seizes me every time I think of my family, I wish to finish up by their
+rediscovery.
+
+Five hundred pounds sterling worth of goods have again unaccountably
+been entrusted to slaves, and have been over a year on the way, instead
+of four months. I must go where they lie at your expense, ere I can put
+the natural completion to my work.
+
+And if my disclosures regarding the terrible Ujijian slavery should lead
+to the suppression of the East Coast slave trade, I shall regard that
+as a greater matter by far than the discovery of all the Nile sources
+together. Now that you have done with domestic slavery for ever, lend
+us your powerful aid toward this great object. This fine country
+is blighted, as with a curse from above, in order that the slavery
+privileges of the petty Sultan of Zanzibar may not be infringed, and the
+rights of the Crown of Portugal, which are mythical, should be kept in
+abeyance till some future time when Africa will become another India to
+Portuguese slave-traders.
+
+I conclude by again thanking you most cordially for your great
+generosity, and am,
+
+Gratefully yours,
+
+David Livingstone.
+
+
+To the above letter I have nothing to add--it speaks for itself; but I
+then thought it was the best evidence of my success. For my own part, I
+cared not one jot or tittle about his discoveries, except so far as it
+concerned the newspaper which commissioned me for the "search." It
+is true I felt curious as to the result of his travels; but, since
+he confessed that he had not completed what he had begun, I felt
+considerable delicacy to ask for more than he could afford to give.
+His discoveries were the fruits of of his own labours--to him they
+belonged--by their publication he hoped to obtain his reward, which
+he desired to settle on his children. Yet Livingstone had a higher
+and nobler ambition than the mere pecuniary sum he would receive: he
+followed the dictates of duty. Never was such a willing slave to that
+abstract virtue. His inclinations impelled him home, the fascinations
+of which it required the sternest resolves to resist. With every foot of
+new ground he travelled over he forged a chain of sympathy which should
+hereafter bind the Christian nations in bonds of love and charity to the
+Heathen of the African tropics. If he were able to complete this chain
+of love--by actual discovery and description of them to embody such
+peoples and nations as still live in darkness, so as to attract the good
+and charitable of his own land to bestir themselves for their redemption
+and salvation--this, Livingstone would consider an ample reward.
+
+"A delirious and fatuous enterprise, a Quixotic scheme!" some will say.
+Not it, my friends; for as sure as the sun shines on both Christian and
+Infidel, civilised and Pagan, the day of enlightenment will come; and,
+though Livingstone, the Apostle of Africa, may not behold it himself,
+nor we younger men, not yet our children, the Hereafter will see it, and
+posterity will recognise the daring pioneer of its civilization.
+
+The following items are extracted in their entirety from my Diary:
+
+March 12th.--The Arabs have sent me as many as forty-five letters to
+carry to the coast. I am turned courier in my latter days; but the
+reason is that no regularly organized caravans are permitted to leave
+Unyanyembe now, because of the war with Mirambo. What if I had stayed
+all this time at Unyanyembe waiting for the war to end! It is my opinion
+that, the Arabs will not be able to conquer Mirambo under nine months
+yet.
+
+To-night the natives have gathered themselves together to give me a
+farewell dance in front of my house. I find them to be the pagazis of
+Singiri, chief of Mtesa's caravan. My men joined in, and, captivated
+by the music despite myself, I also struck in, and performed the "light
+fantastic," to the intense admiration of my braves, who were delighted
+to see their master unbend a little from his usual stiffness.
+
+It is a wild dance altogether. The music is lively, and evoked from the
+sonorous sound of four drums, which are arranged before the bodies of
+four men, who stand in the centre of the weird circle. Bombay, as ever
+comical, never so much at home as when in the dance of the Mrima, has my
+water-bucket on his head; Chowpereh--the sturdy, the nimble, sure-footed
+Chowpereh--has an axe in his hand, and wears a goatskin on his head;
+Baraka has my bearskin, and handles a spear; Mabruki, the "Bull-headed,"
+has entered into the spirit of the thing, and steps up and down like a
+solemn elephant; Ulimengo has a gun, and is a fierce Drawcansir, and
+you would imagine he was about to do battle to a hundred thousand,
+so ferocious is he in appearance; Khamisi and Kamna are before
+the drummers, back to back, kicking up ambitiously at the stars;
+Asmani,--the embodiment of giant strength,--a towering Titan,--has also
+a gun, with which he is dealing blows in the air, as if he were Thor,
+slaying myriads with his hammer. The scruples and passions of us all are
+in abeyance; we are contending demons under the heavenly light of the
+stars, enacting only the part of a weird drama, quickened into action
+and movement by the appalling energy and thunder of the drums.
+
+The warlike music is ended, and another is started. The choragus
+has fallen on his knees, and dips his head two or three times in an
+excavation in the ground, and a choir, also on their knees, repeat in
+dolorous tones the last words of a slow and solemn refrain. The words
+are literally translated:--
+
+  Choragus. Oh-oh-oh! the white man is going home!
+
+  Choir. Oh-oh-oh! going home!
+                       Going home, oh-oh-oh!
+
+  Choragus. To the happy island on the sea,
+             Where the beads are plenty, oh-oh-oh!
+
+  Choir. Oh-oh-oh! where the beads are plenty,
+                       Oh-oh-oh!
+
+  Choragus. While Singiri has kept us, oh, very long
+             From our homes very long, oh-oh-oh.!
+
+  Choir From our homes, oh-oh-oh!
+                        Oh-oh-oh!
+
+  Choragus. And we have had no food for very long--
+             We are half-starved, oh, for so long!
+                        Bana Singiri!
+
+  Choir. For so very long, oh-oh-oh!
+                         Bana Singiri-Singiri!
+                              Singiri! oh, Singiri
+
+  Choragus. Mirambo has gone to war
+             To fight against the Arabs;
+             The Arabs and Wangwana
+             Have gone to fight Mirambo!
+
+  Choir Oh-oh-oh! to fight Mirambo!
+
+                          Oh, Mirambo! Mirambo
+                          Oh, to fight Mirambo!
+
+  Choragus. But the white man will make us glad,
+             He is going home!  For he is going home,
+             And he will make us glad!  Sh-sh-sh!
+
+  Choir. The white man will make us glad! Sh-sh-sh
+                          Sh-----sh-h-h-----sh-h-h-h-h-h!
+                          Um-m--mu---um-m-m----sh!
+
+This is the singular farewell which I received from the Wanyamwezi of
+Singiri, and for its remarkable epic beauty(?), rhythmic excellence(?),
+and impassioned force(?), I have immortalised it in the pages of this
+book, as one of the most wonderful productions of the chorus-loving
+children of Unyamwezi.
+
+March 13th.--The last day of my stay with Livingstone has come and gone,
+and the last night we shall be together is present, and I cannot evade
+the morrow! I feel as though I would rebel against the fate which drives
+me away from him. The minutes beat fast, and grow into hours.
+
+Our door is closed, and we are both of us busy with our own thoughts.
+What his thoughts are I know not. Mine are sad. My days seem to have
+been spent in an Elysian field; otherwise, why should I so keenly regret
+the near approach of the parting hour? Have I not been battered by
+successive fevers, prostrate with agony day after day lately? Have I not
+raved and stormed in madness? Have I not clenched my fists in fury, and
+fought with the wild strength of despair when in delirium? Yet, I regret
+to surrender the pleasure I have felt in this man's society, though so
+dearly purchased.
+
+I cannot resist the sure advance of time, which flies this night as if
+it mocked me, and gloated on the misery it created! Be it so!
+
+How many times have I not suffered the pang of parting with friends! I
+wished to linger longer, but the inevitable would come--Fate sundered
+us. This is the same regretful feeling, only it is more poignant,
+and the farewell may be forever! FOREVER? And "FOR EVER," echo the
+reverberations of a woful whisper.
+
+I have noted down all he has said to-night; but the reader shall not
+share it with me. It is mine!
+
+I am as jealous as he is himself of his Journal; and I have written in
+German text, and in round hand, on either side of it, on the waterproof
+canvas cover, "POSITTVELY NOT TO BE OPENED;" to which he has affixed his
+signature. I have stenographed every word he has said to me respecting
+the equable distribution of certain curiosities among his friends and
+children, and his last wish about "his" dear old friend, Sir Roderick
+Murchison, because he has been getting anxious about him ever since we
+received the newspapers at Ugunda, when we read that the old man was
+suffering from a paralytic stroke. I must be sure to send him the news,
+as soon as I get to Aden; and I have promised that he will receive
+the message from me quicker than anything was ever received in Central
+Africa.
+
+"To-morrow night, Doctor, you will be alone!"
+
+"Yes; the house will look as though a death had taken place. You had
+better stop until the rains, which are now near, are over."
+
+"I would to God I could, my dear Doctor; but every day I stop here, now
+that there is no necessity for me to stay longer, keeps you from your
+work and home."
+
+"I know; but consider your health--you are not fit to travel. What
+is it? Only a few weeks longer. You will travel to the coast just as
+quickly when the rains are over as you will by going now. The plains
+will be inundated between here and the coast."
+
+"You think so; but I will reach the coast in forty days; if not in
+forty, I will in fifty--certain. The thought that I am doing you an
+important service will spur me on."
+
+March 14th.--At dawn we were up, the bales and baggage were taken
+outside of the building, and the men prepared themselves for the first
+march towards home.
+
+We had a sad breakfast together. I could not eat, my heart was too full;
+neither did my companion seem to have an appetite. We found something to
+do which kept us longer together. At 8 o'clock I was not gone, and I had
+thought to have been off at 5 A.M.
+
+"Doctor," said I, "I will leave two men with you, who will stop to-day
+and to-morrow with you, for it may be that you have forgotten something
+in the hurry of my departure. I will halt a day at Tura, on the frontier
+of Unyamwezi, for your last word, and your last wish; and now we must
+part--there is no help for it. Good-bye."
+
+"Oh, I am coming with you a little way. I must see you off on the road."
+
+"Thank you. Now, my men, Home! Kirangozi, lift the flag, and MARCH!"
+
+The house looked desolate--it faded from our view. Old times, and the
+memories of my aspirations and kindling hopes, came strong on me. The
+old hills round about, that I once thought tame and uninteresting, had
+become invested with histories and reminiscences for me. On that burzani
+I have sat hour after hour, dreaming, and hoping, and sighing. On that
+col I stood, watching the battle and the destruction of Tabora. Under
+that roof I have sickened and been delirious, and cried out like a child
+at the fate that threatened my mission. Under that banian tree lay my
+dead comrade--poor Shaw; I would have given a fortune to have had him by
+my side at this time. From that house I started on my journey to Ujiji;
+to it I returned as to a friend, with a newer and dearer companion; and
+now I leave all. Already it all appears like a strange dream.
+
+We walked side by side; the men lifted their voices into a song. I took
+long looks at Livingstone, to impress his features thoroughly on my
+memory.
+
+"The thing is, Doctor, so far as I can understand it, you do not intend
+to return home until you have satisfied yourself about the 'Sources
+of the Nile.' When you have satisfied yourself, you will come home and
+satisfy others. Is it not so?"
+
+"That is it, exactly. When your men come back, I shall immediately start
+for Ufipa; then, crossing the Rungwa River, I shall strike south, and
+round the extremity of the Tanganika. Then, a south-east course will
+take me to Chicumbi's, on the Luapula. On crossing the Luapula, I shall
+go direct west to the copper-mines of Katanga. Eight days south of
+Katanga, the natives declare the fountains to be. When I have found
+them, I shall return by Katanga to the underground houses of Rua. From
+the caverns, ten days north-east will take me to Lake Kamolondo. I shall
+be able to travel from the lake, in your boat, up the River Lufira,
+to Lake Lincoln. Then, coming down again, I can proceed north, by the
+Lualaba, to the fourth lake--which, I think, will explain the whole
+problem; and I will probably find that it is either Chowambe (Baker's
+lake), or Piaggia's lake.
+
+"And how long do you think this little journey will take you?"
+
+"A year and a half, at the furthest, from the day I leave Unyanyembe."
+
+"Suppose you say two years; contingencies might arise, you know. It will
+be well for me to hire these new men for two years; the day of their
+engagement to begin from their arrival at Unyanyembe."
+
+"Yes, that will do excellently well."
+
+"Now, my dear Doctor, the best friends must part. You have come far
+enough; let me beg of you to turn back."
+
+"Well, I will say this to you: you have done what few men could do--far
+better than some great travellers I know. And I am grateful to you for
+what you have done for me. God guide you safe home, and bless you, my
+friend."
+
+"And may God bring you safe back to us all, my dear friend. Farewell!"
+
+"Farewell!"
+
+We wrung each other's hands, and I had to tear myself away before
+I unmanned myself; but Susi, and Chumah, and Hamoydah--the Doctor's
+faithful fellows--they must all shake and kiss my hands before I could
+quite turn away. I betrayed myself!
+
+"Good-bye, Doctor--dear friend!"
+
+"Good-bye!"
+
+The FAREWELL between Livingstone and myself had been spoken. We were
+parted, he to whatever fate Destiny had yet in store for him, to
+battling against difficulties, to many, many days of marching through
+wildernesses, with little or nothing much to sustain him save his own
+high spirit, and enduring faith in God--"who would bring all things
+right at last;" and I to that which Destiny may have in store for me.
+
+But though I may live half a century longer, I shall never forget that
+parting scene in Central Africa. I shall never cease to think of the sad
+tones of that sorrowful word Farewell, how they permeated through every
+core of my heart, how they clouded my eyes, and made me wish unutterable
+things which could never be.
+
+An audacious desire to steal one embrace from the dear old man came over
+me, and almost unmanned me. I felt tempted to stop with him and assist
+him, on his long return march to the fountain region, but these things
+were not to be, any more than many other impulsive wishes, and despite
+the intensified emotions which filled both of us, save by silent tears,
+and a tremulous parting word, we did not betray our stoicism of manhood
+and race.
+
+I assumed a gruff voice, and ordered the Expedition to march, and I
+resolutely turned my face toward the eastern sky. But ever and anon my
+eyes would seek that deserted figure of an old man in grey clothes, who
+with bended head and slow steps was returning to his solitude, the very
+picture of melancholy, and each time I saw him--as the plain was wide
+and clear of obstructions--I felt my eyes stream, and my heart swell
+with a vague, indefinable feeling of foreboding and sorrow.
+
+I thought of his lonely figure sitting day after day on the burzani of
+his house, by which all caravans from the coast would have to pass, and
+of the many, many times he would ask the new-comers whether they had
+passed any men coming along the road for him, and I thought as each day
+passed, and his stores and letters had not arrived how he would grieve
+at the lengthening delay. I then felt strong again, as I felt that
+so long as I should be doing service for Livingstone, I was not quite
+parted from him, and by doing the work effectively and speedily the bond
+of friendship between us would be strengthened. Such thoughts spurred me
+to the resolution to march so quickly for the coast, that Arabs in
+after time should marvel at the speed with which the white man's caravan
+travelled from Unyanyembe to Zanzibar.
+
+I took one more look at him; he was standing near the gate of Kwikuru
+with his servants near him. I waved a handkerchief to him, as a final
+token of farewell, and he responded to it by lifting his cap. It was the
+last opportunity, for we soon surmounted the crest of a land-wave, and
+began the descent into the depression on the other side, and I NEVER saw
+him more.
+
+God grant, dear reader, that if ever you take to travelling in Central
+Africa, you find as good and true a man, for your companion, as I found
+in noble David Livingstone. For four months and four days he and I
+occupied the same house, or, the same tent, and I never had one feeling
+of resentment against him, nor did he show any against me, and the
+longer I lived with him the more did my admiration and reverence for him
+increase.
+
+What were Livingstone's thoughts during the time which elapsed between
+my departure for the coast, and the arrival of his supplies, may be
+gathered from a letter which he wrote on the 2nd of July to Mr. John F.
+Webb, American Consul at Zanzibar.
+
+  I have been waiting up here like Simeon Stylites on his pillar,
+  and counting every day, and conjecturing each step taken by our
+  friend towards the coast, wishing and praying that no sickness
+  might lay him up, no accident befall him, and no unlooked-for
+  combinations of circumstances render his kind intentions vain
+  or fruitless.  Mr. Stanley had got over the tendency to the
+  continued form of fever which is the most dangerous, and was
+  troubled only with the intermittent form, which is comparatively
+  safe, or I would not have allowed him, but would have accompanied
+  him to Zanzibar.  I did not tell himself so; nor did I say what I
+  thought, that he really did a very plucky thing in going through
+  the Mirambo war in spite of the remonstrances of all the Arabs,
+  and from Ujiji guiding me back to Unyanyembe.  The war, as it
+  is called, is still going on.  The danger lay not so much in
+  the actual fighting as in the universal lawlessness the war
+  engendered.
+
+I am not going to inflict on the reader a repetition of our march back,
+except to record certain incidents which occurred to us as we journeyed
+to the coast.
+
+March 17th.--We came to the Kwalah River. The first rain of the Masika
+season fell on this day; I shall be mildewed before I reach the coast.
+Last year's Masika began at Bagamoyo, March 23rd, and ended 30th April.
+
+The next day I halted the Expedition at Western Tura, on the Unyamwezi
+frontier, and on the 20th arrived at Eastern Tura; when, soon after,
+we heard a loud report of a gun, and Susi and Hamoydah, the Doctor's
+servants, with Uredi, and another of my men, appeared with a letter
+for "Sir Thomas MacLear, Observatory, Cape of Good Hope," and one for
+myself, which read as follows:
+
+Kwihara, March 15, 1872.
+
+Dear Stanley,
+
+If you can telegraph on your arrival in London, be particular, please,
+to say how Sir Roderick is. You put the matter exactly yesterday, when
+you said that I was "not yet satisfied about the Sources; but as soon as
+I shall be satisfied, I shall return and give satisfactory reasons fit
+for other people." This is just as it stands.
+
+I wish I could give you a better word than the Scotch one to "put a
+stout heart to a stey brae"--(a steep ascent)--for you will do that; and
+I am thankful that, before going away, the fever had changed into the
+intermittent, or safe form. I would not have let you go, but with great
+concern, had you still been troubled with the continued type. I feel
+comfortable in commending you to the guardianship of the good Lord and
+Father of all.
+
+I am gratefully yours,
+
+David Livingstone.
+
+I have worked as hard as I could copying observations made in one line
+of march from Kabuire, back again to Cazembe, and on to Lake Baugweolo,
+and am quite tired out. My large figures fill six sheets of foolscap,
+and many a day will elapse ere I take to copying again. I did my duty
+when ill at Ujiji in 1869, and am not to blame, though they grope a
+little in the dark at home. Some Arab letters have come, and I forward
+them to you.
+
+D. L.
+
+March 16, 1872.
+
+P.S.--I have written a note this morning to Mr. Murray, 50, Albemarle
+Street, the publisher, to help you, if necessary, in sending the Journal
+by book post, or otherwise, to Agnes. If you call on him you will find
+him a frank gentleman. A pleasant journey to you.
+
+
+David Livingstone.
+
+To Henry M. Stanley, Esq., Wherever he may be found.
+
+
+Several Wangwana arrived at Tura to join our returning Expedition,
+as they were afraid to pass through Ugogo by themselves; others were
+reported coming; but as all were sufficiently warned at Unyanyembe that
+the departure of the caravan would take place positively on the 14th, I
+was not disposed to wait longer.
+
+As we were leaving Tura, on the 21st, Susi and Hamoydah were sent back
+to the Doctor, with last words from me, while we continued our march to
+Nghwhalah River.
+
+Two days afterwards we arrived before the village of Ngaraisa, into
+which the head of the caravan attempted to enter but the angry Wakimbu
+forcibly ejected them.
+
+On the 24th, we encamped in the jungle, in what is called the "tongoni,"
+or clearing.
+
+This region was at one period in a most flourishing state; the soil is
+exceedingly fertile; the timber is large, and would be valuable near the
+coast; and, what is highly appreciated in Africa, there is an abundance
+of water. We camped near a smooth, broad hump of syenite, at one end
+of which rose, upright and grand, a massive square rock, which towered
+above several small trees in the vicinity; at the other end stood up
+another singular rock, which was loosened at the base.
+
+The members of the Expedition made use of the great sheet of rock to
+grind their grain; a common proceeding in these lands where villages are
+not near, or when the people are hostile.
+
+On the 27th of March we entered Kiwyeh. At dawn, when leaving Mdaburu
+River, the solemn warning had been given that we were about entering
+Ugogo; and as we left Kaniyaga village, with trumpet-like blasts of the
+guide's horn, we filed into the depths of an expanse of rustling Indian
+corn. The ears were ripe enough for parching and roasting, and thus was
+one anxiety dispelled by its appearance; for generally, in early March,
+caravans suffer from famine, which overtakes both natives and strangers.
+
+We soon entered the gum-tree districts, and we knew we were in Ugogo.
+The forests of this country are chiefly composed of the gum and thorn
+species--mimosa and tamarisk, with often a variety of wild fruit trees.
+The grapes were plentiful, though they were not quite ripe; and there
+was also a round, reddish fruit with the sweetness of the Sultana grape,
+with leaves like a gooseberry-bush. There was another about the size of
+an apricot, which was excessively bitter.
+
+Emerging from the entangled thorn jungle, the extensive settlements of
+Kiwyeh came into view; and to the east of the chief's village we found a
+camping place under the shade of a group of colossal baobab.
+
+We had barely encamped when we heard the booming, bellowing war horns
+sounding everywhere, and we espied messengers darting swiftly in every
+direction giving the alarm of war. When first informed that the horns
+were calling the people to arm themselves, and prepare for war, I half
+suspected that an attack was about to be made on the Expedition; but
+the words "Urugu, warugu" (thief! thieves!)--bandied about, declared
+the cause. Mukondoku, the chief of the populous district two days to the
+north-east, where we experienced some excitement when westward-bound,
+was marching to attack the young Mtemi, Kiwyeh, and Kiwyeh's soldiers
+were called to the fight. The men rushed to their villages, and in a
+short time we saw them arrayed in full fighting costume. Feathers of the
+ostrich and the eagle waved over their fronts, or the mane of the zebra
+surrounded their heads; their knees and ankles were hung with little
+bells; joho robes floated behind, from their necks; spears, assegais,
+knob-sticks, and bows were flourished over their heads, or held in their
+right hands, as if ready for hurling. On each flank of a large body
+which issued from the principal village, and which came at a uniform
+swinging double-quick, the ankle and knee bells all chiming in
+admirable unison, were a cloud of skirmishers, consisting of the most
+enthusiastic, who exercised themselves in mimic war as they sped along.
+Column after column, companies, and groups from every village hurried
+on past our camp until, probably, there were nearly a thousand soldiers
+gone to the war. This scene gave me a better idea than anything else
+of the weakness of even the largest caravans which travelled between
+Zanzibar and Unyanyembe.
+
+At night the warriors returned from the forest; the alarm proved to be
+without foundation. At first it was generally reported that the invaders
+were Wahehe, or the Wadirigo, as that tribe are scornfully called from
+their thieving propensities. The Wahehe frequently make a foray upon
+the fat cattle of Ugogo. They travel from their own country in the
+south-east, and advance through the jungle, and when about to approach
+the herds, stoop down, covering their bodies with their shields of
+bull-hide. Having arrived between the cattle and the herdsmen, they
+suddenly rise up and begin to switch the cattle heartily, and, having
+started them off into the jungle in the care of men already detailed for
+the work, they turn about, and plant their shields before them, to fight
+the aroused shepherds.
+
+On the 30th we arrived at Khonze, which is remarkable for the mighty
+globes of foliage which the giant sycamores and baobabs put forth above
+the plain. The chief of Khonze boasts of four tembes, out of which
+he could muster in the aggregate fifty armed men; yet this fellow,
+instigated by the Wanyamwezi residents, prepared to resist our advance,
+because I only sent him three doti--twelve yards of cloth--as honga.
+
+We were halted, waiting the return of a few friendly Wagogo travellers
+who had joined us, and who were asked to assist Bombay in the
+negotiation of the tribute, when the Wagogo returned to us at breathless
+speed, and shouted out to me, "Why do you halt here? Do you wish to die?
+These pagans will not take the tribute, but they boast that they will
+eat up all your cloth."
+
+The renegade Wanyamwezi who had married into Wagogo families were always
+our bane in this country. As the chief of Khonze came up I ordered
+the men to load their guns, and I loaded my own ostentatiously in his
+presence, and then strode up to him, and asked if he had come to take
+the cloth by force, or if he were going to accept quietly what I would
+give him. As the Mnyamwezi who caused this show of hostilities was
+beginning to speak, I caught him by the throat, and threatened to make
+his nose flatter if he attempted to speak again in my presence, and to
+shoot him first, if we should be forced to fight. The rascal was then
+pushed away into the rear. The chief, who was highly amused with this
+proceeding, laughed loudly at the discomfiture of the parasite, and in a
+short time he and I had settled the tribute to our mutual satisfaction,
+and we parted great friends. The Expedition arrived at Sanza that night.
+
+On the 31st we came to Kanyenyi, to the great Mtemi--Magomba's--whose
+son and heir is Mtundu M'gondeh. As we passed by the tembe of the great
+Sultan, the msagira, or chief counsellor, a pleasant grey-haired man,
+was at work making a thorn fence around a patch of young corn. He
+greeted the caravan with a sonorous "Yambo," and, putting himself at
+its head, he led the way to our camp. When introduced to me he was very
+cordial in his manner. He was offered a kiti-stool and began to talk
+very affably. He remembered my predecessors, Burton, Speke, and Grant,
+very well; declared me to be much younger than any of them; and,
+recollecting that one of the white men used to drink asses' milk
+(Burton?), offered to procure me some. The way I drank it seemed to give
+him very great satisfaction.
+
+His son, Unamapokera, was a tall man of thirty or thereabouts, and
+he conceived a great friendship for me, and promised that the tribute
+should be very light, and that he would send a man to show me the way to
+Myumi, which was a village on the frontier of Kanyenyi, by which I
+would be enabled to avoid the rapacious Kisewah, who was in the habit of
+enforcing large tribute from caravans.
+
+With the aid of Unamapokera and his father, we contrived to be mulcted
+very lightly, for we only paid ten doti, while Burton was compelled to
+pay sixty doti or two hundred and forty yards of cloth.
+
+On the 1st of April, rising early, we reached Myumi after a four hours'
+march; then plunged into the jungle, and, about 2 P.M. arrived at a
+large ziwa, or pond, situate in the middle of a jungle; and on the next
+day, at 10 A.M., reached the fields of Mapanga. We were passing the
+village of Mapanga to a resting-place beyond the village, where we might
+breakfast and settle the honga, when a lad rushed forward to meet us,
+and asked us where we were going. Having received a reply that we were
+going to a camping-place, he hastened on ahead, and presently we heard
+him talking to some men in a field on our right.
+
+In the meantime, we had found a comfortable shady place, and had come to
+a halt; the men were reclining on the ground, or standing up near their
+respective loads; Bombay was about opening a bale, when we heard a great
+rush of men, and loud shouts, and, immediately after, out rushed from
+the jungle near by a body of forty or fifty armed men, who held their
+spears above their heads, or were about to draw their bows, with a chief
+at their head, all uttering such howls of rage as only savages can,
+which sounded like a long-drawn "Hhaat-uh--Hhaat-uhh-uhh," which
+meant, unmistakably, "You will, will you? No, you will not!"--at once
+determined, defiant, and menacing.
+
+I had suspected that the voices I heard boded no good to us, and I had
+accordingly prepared my weapons and cartridges. Verily, what a fine
+chance for adventure this was! One spear flung at us, or one shot fired
+into this minatory mob of savages, and the opposing' bands had been
+plunged into a fatal conflict! There would have been no order of
+battle, no pomp of war, but a murderous strife, a quick firing of
+breech-loaders, and volleys from flint-lock muskets, mixed with the
+flying of spears and twanging of bows, the cowardly running away at
+once, pursued by yelping savages; and who knows how it all would have
+terminated? Forty spears against forty guns--but how many guns would
+not have decamped? Perhaps all, and I should have been left with my
+boy gunbearers to have my jugular deliberately severed, or to be
+decapitated, leaving my head to adorn a tall pole in the centre of
+a Kigogo village, like poor Monsieur Maizan's at Dege la Mhora, in
+Uzaramo. Happy end of an Expedition! And the Doctor's Journal lost for
+ever--the fruits of six years' labor!
+
+But in this land it will not do to fight unless driven to the very last
+extremity. No belligerent Mungo Park can be successful in Ugogo unless
+he has a sufficient force of men with him. With five hundred Europeans
+one could traverse Africa from north to south, by tact, and the moral
+effect that such a force would inspire. Very little fighting would be
+required.
+
+Without rising from the bale on which I was seated, I requested
+the kirangozi to demand an explanation of their furious hubbub and
+threatening aspect; if they were come to rob us.
+
+"No," said the chief; "we do not want to stop the road, or to rob you;
+but we want the tribute."
+
+"But don't you see us halted, and the bale opened to send it to you? We
+have come so far from your village that after the tribute is settled we
+can proceed on our way, as the day is yet young."
+
+The chief burst into a loud laugh, and was joined by ourselves. He
+evidently felt ashamed of his conduct for he voluntarily offered the
+explanation, that as he and his men were cutting wood to make a new
+fence for his village, a lad came up to him, and said that a caravan
+of Wangwana were about passing through the country without stopping to
+explain who they were. We were soon very good friends. He begged of
+me to make rain for him, as his crops were suffering, and no rain had
+fallen for months. I told him that though white people were very great
+and clever people, much superior to the Arabs, yet we could not make
+rain. Though very much disappointed, he did not doubt my statement, and
+after receiving his honga, which was very light, he permitted us to go
+on our way, and even accompanied us some distance to show us the road.
+
+At 3 P.M. we entered a thorny jungle; and by 5 P.M. we had arrived at
+Muhalata, a district lorded over by the chief Nyamzaga. A Mgogo, of whom
+I made a friend, proved very staunch. He belonged to Mulowa, a country
+to the S.S.E., and south of Kulabi; and was active in promoting my
+interests by settling the tribute, with the assistance of Bombay, for
+me. When, on the next day, we passed through Kulabi on our way to Mvumi,
+and the Wagogo were about to stop us for the honga, he took upon himself
+the task of relieving us from further toll, by stating we were from
+Ugogo or Kanyenyi. The chief simply nodded his head, and we passed on.
+It seems that the Wagogo do not exact blackmail of those caravans who
+intend only to trade in their own country, or have no intention of
+passing beyond their own frontier.
+
+Leaving Kulabi, we traversed a naked, red, loamy plain, over which the
+wind from the heights of Usagara, now rising a bluish-black jumble
+of mountains in our front, howled most fearfully. With clear, keen,
+incisive force, the terrible blasts seemed to penetrate through an
+through our bodies, as though we were but filmy gauze. Manfully battling
+against this mighty "peppo"--storm--we passed through Mukamwa's, and
+crossing a broad sandy bed of a stream, we entered the territory of
+Mvumi, the last tribute-levying chief of Ugogo.
+
+The 4th of April, after sending Bombay and my friendly Mgogo with eight
+doti, or thirty-two yards of cloth, as a farewell tribute to the Sultan,
+we struck off through the jungle, and in five hours we were on the
+borders of the wilderness of "Marenga Mkali"--the "hard," bitter or
+brackish, water.
+
+From our camp I despatched three men to Zanzibar with letters to the
+American Consul, and telegraphic despatches for the 'Herald,' with a
+request to the Consul that he would send the men back with a small case
+or two containing such luxuries as hungry, worn-out, and mildewed men
+would appreciate. The three messengers were charged not to halt for
+anything--rain or no rain, river or inundation--as if they did not hurry
+up we should catch them before they reached the coast. With a fervent
+"Inshallah, bana," they departed.
+
+On the 5th, with a loud, vigorous, cheery "Hurrah!" we plunged into the
+depths of the wilderness, which, with its eternal silence and solitude,
+was far preferable to the jarring, inharmonious discord of the villages
+of the Wagogo. For nine hours we held on our way, starting with noisy
+shouts the fierce rhinoceros, the timid quagga, and the herds of
+antelopes which crowd the jungles of this broad salina. On the 7th, amid
+a pelting rain, we entered Mpwapwa, where my Scotch assistant, Farquhar,
+died. We had performed the extraordinary march of 338 English statute
+miles from the 14th of March to the 7th of April, or within twenty-four
+days, inclusive of halts, which was a little over fourteen miles a day.
+
+Leukole, the chief of Mpwapwa, with whom I left Farquhar, gave the
+following account of the death of the latter:--
+
+"The white man seemed to be improving after you left him, until the,
+fifth day, when, while attempting to rise and walk out of his tent, he
+fell back; from that minute he got worse and worse, and in the afternoon
+he died, like one going to sleep. His legs and abdomen had swollen
+considerably, and something, I think, broke within him when he fell, for
+he cried out like a man who was very much hurt, and his servant said,
+'The master says he is dying.'
+
+"We had him carried out under a large tree, and after covering him with
+leaves, there left him. His servant took possession of his things, his
+rifle, clothes, and blanket, and moved off to the tembe of a Mnyamwezi,
+near Kisokweh, where he lived for three months, when he also died.
+Before he died he sold his master's rifle to an Arab going to Unyanyembe
+for ten doti (forty yards of cloth). That is all I know about it."
+
+He subsequently showed me the hollow into which the dead body of
+Farquhar was thrown, but I could not find a vestige of his bones, though
+we looked sharply about that we might make a decent grave for them.
+Before we left Unyanyembe fifty men were employed two days carrying
+rocks, with which I built up a solid enduring pile around Shaw's grave
+eight feet long and five feet broad, which Dr. Livingstone said would
+last hundreds of years, as the grave of the first white man who died
+in Unyamwezi. But though we could not discover any remains of the
+unfortunate Farquhar, we collected a large quantity of stones, and
+managed to raise a mound near the banks of the stream to commemorate the
+spot where his body was laid.
+
+It was not until we had entered the valley of the Mukondokwa River that
+we experienced anything like privation or hardship from the Masika. Here
+the torrents thundered and roared; the river was a mighty brown flood,
+sweeping downward with, an almost resistless flow. The banks were
+brimful, and broad nullahs were full of water, and the fields were
+inundated, and still the rain came surging down in a shower, that warned
+us of what we might expect during our transit of the sea-coast region.
+Still we urged our steps onward like men to whom every moment was
+precious--as if a deluge was overtaking us. Three times we crossed this
+awful flood at the fords by means of ropes tied to trees from bank to
+bank, and arrived at Kadetamare on the 11th, a most miserable, most
+woe-begone set of human beings; and camped on a hill opposite Mount
+Kibwe, which rose on the right of the river--one of the tallest peaks of
+the range.
+
+On the 12th of April, after six hours of the weariest march I had ever
+undergone, we arrived at the mouth of the Mukondokwa Pass, out of which
+the river debouches into the Plain of Makata. We knew that it was an
+unusual season, for the condition of the country, though bad enough the
+year before, was as nothing compared to this year. Close to the edge
+of the foaming, angry flood lay our route, dipping down frequently into
+deep ditches, wherein we found ourselves sometimes up to the waist in
+water, and sometimes up to the throat. Urgent necessity impelled us
+onward, lest we might have to camp at one of these villages until the
+end of the monsoon rains; so we kept on, over marshy bottoms, up to the
+knees in mire, under jungly tunnels dripping with wet, then into sloughs
+arm-pit deep. Every channel seemed filled to overflowing, yet down
+the rain poured, beating the surface of the river into yellowish foam,
+pelting us until we were almost breathless. Half a day's battling
+against such difficulties brought us, after crossing the river, once
+again to the dismal village of Mvumi.
+
+We passed the night fighting swarms of black and voracious mosquitoes,
+and in heroic endeavours to win repose in sleep, in which we were partly
+successful, owing to the utter weariness of our bodies.
+
+On the 13th we struck out of the village of Mvumi. It had rained the
+whole night, and the morning brought no cessation. Mile after mile we
+traversed, over fields covered by the inundation, until we came to a
+branch river-side once again, where the river was narrow, and too deep
+to ford in the middle. We proceeded to cut a tree down, and so contrived
+that it should fall right across the stream. Over this fallen tree the
+men, bestriding it, cautiously moved before them their bales and
+boxes; but one young fellow, Rojab--through over-zeal, or in sheer
+madness--took up the Doctor's box which contained his letters and
+Journal of his discoveries on his head, and started into the river.
+I had been the first to arrive on the opposite bank, in order to
+superintend the crossing; when I caught sight of this man walking in the
+river with the most precious box of all on his head. Suddenly he fell
+into a deep hole, and the man and box went almost out of sight, while
+I was in an agony at the fate which threatened the despatches.
+Fortunately, he recovered himself and stood up, while I shouted to him,
+with a loaded revolver pointed at his head, "Look out! Drop that bog,
+and I'll shoot you."
+
+All the men halted in their work while they gazed at their comrade
+who was thus imperilled by bullet and flood. The man himself seemed
+to regard the pistol with the greatest awe, and after a few desperate
+efforts succeeded in getting the box safely ashore. As the articles
+within were not damaged, Rojab escaped punishment, with a caution not
+to touch the bog again on any account, and it was transferred to the
+keeping of the sure-footed and perfect pagazi, Maganga.
+
+From this stream, in about an hour, we came to the main river, but one
+look at its wild waters was enough. We worked hard to construct a raft,
+but after cutting down four trees and lashing the green logs together,
+and pushing them into the whirling current, we saw them sink like lead.
+We then tied together all the strong rope in our possession, and made a
+line 180 feet long, with one end of which tied round his body, Chowpereh
+was sent across to lash it to a tree. He was carried far down the
+stream; but being an excellent swimmer, he succeeded in his attempt. The
+bales were lashed around the middle, and, heaved into the stream, were
+dragged through the river to the opposite bank, as well as the tent, and
+such things as could not be injured much by the water. Several of the
+men, as well as myself, were also dragged through the water; each of
+the boys being attended by the best swimmers; but when we came to the
+letter-boxes and valuables, we could suggest no means to take them over.
+Two camps were accordingly made, one on each side of the stream; the one
+on the bank which I had just left occupying an ant-hill of considerable
+height; while my party had to content itself with a flat, miry marsh. An
+embankment of soil, nearly a foot high, was thrown up in a circle thirty
+feet in diameter, in the centre of which my tent was pitched, and around
+it booths were erected.
+
+It was an extraordinary and novel position that we found ourselves in.
+Within twenty feet of our camp was a rising river, with flat, low banks;
+above us was a gloomy, weeping sky; surrounding us on three sides was an
+immense forest, on whose branches we heard the constant, pattering rain;
+beneath our feet was a great depth of mud, black and loathsome; add to
+these the thought that the river might overflow, and sweep us to utter
+destruction.
+
+In the morning the river was still rising, and an inevitable doom seemed
+to hang over us. There was yet time to act--to bring over the people,
+with the most valuable effects of the Expedition--as I considered Dr.
+Livingstone's Journal and letters, and my own papers, of far greater
+value than anything else. While looking at the awful river an idea
+struck me that I might possibly carry the boxes across, one at a time,
+by cutting two slender poles, and tying cross sticks to them, making a
+kind of hand-barrow, on which a box might rest when lashed to it. Two
+men swimming across, at the same time holding on to the rope, with the
+ends of the poles resting on the men's shoulders, I thought, would be
+enabled to convey over a 70 lb. box with ease. In a short time one of
+these was made, and six couples of the strongest swimmers were prepared,
+and stimulated with a rousing glass of stiff grog each man, with a
+promise of cloth to each also if they succeeded in getting everything
+ashore undamaged by the water. When I saw with what ease they dragged
+themselves across, the barrow on their shoulders, I wondered that I had
+not thought of the plan before. Within an hour of the first couple had
+gone over, the entire Expedition was safe on the eastern bank; and at
+once breaking camp, we marched north through the swampy forest, which in
+some places was covered with four feet of water. Seven hours' constant
+splashing brought us to Rehenneko, after experiencing several queer
+accidents. We were now on the verge only of the inundated plain of the
+Makata, which, even with the last year's rain, was too horrible to think
+of undertaking again in cold blood.
+
+We were encamped ten days on a hill near Rehenneko, or until the 25th,
+when, the rain having entirely ceased, we resolved to attempt the
+crossing of the Makata. The bales of cloth had all been distributed
+as presents to the men for their work, except a small quantity which I
+retained for the food of my own mess.
+
+But we should have waited a month longer, for the inundation had not
+abated four inches. However, after we once struggled up to our necks in
+water it was use less to turn back. For two marches of eight hours each
+we plunged through slush, mire, deep sloughs, water up to our necks, and
+muddy cataclysms, swam across nullahs, waded across gullies, and near
+sunset of the second day arrived on the banks of the Makata River. My
+people are not likely to forget that night; not one of them was able
+to sleep until it was long past midnight, because of the clouds of
+mosquitoes, which threatened to eat us all up; and when the horn sounded
+for the march of another day, there was not one dissentient amongst
+them.
+
+It was 5 A.M. when we began the crossing of the Makata River, but beyond
+it for six miles stretched one long lake, the waters of which flowed
+gently towards the Wami. This was the confluence of the streams: four
+rivers were here gathered into one. The natives of Kigongo warned us not
+to attempt it, as the water was over our heads; but I had only to give a
+hint to the men, and we set on our way. Even the water--we were getting
+quite amphibious--was better than the horrible filth and piles of
+decaying vegetation which were swept against the boma of the village.
+
+We were soon up to our armpits, then the water shallowed to the knee,
+then we stepped up to the neck, and waded on tiptoe, supporting the
+children above the water; and the same experiences occurred as those
+which we suffered the day before, until we were halted on the edge of
+the Little Makata, which raced along at the rate of eight knots an hour;
+but it was only fifty yards wide, and beyond it rose a high bank, and
+dry park-lands which extended as far as Simbo. We had no other option
+than to swim it; but it was a slow operation, the current was so swift
+and strong. Activity and zeal, high rewards, presents of money, backed
+by the lively feeling that we were nearing home, worked wonders, and in
+a couple of hours we were beyond the Makata.
+
+Cheery and hopeful, we sped along the dry, smooth path that now lay
+before us, with the ardor and vivacity of heroes, and the ease and power
+of veterans, We rolled three ordinary marches into one that day, and
+long before night arrived at Simbo.
+
+On the 29th we crossed the Ungerengeri, and as we came to
+Simbamwenni-the "Lion City" of Useguhha--lo! what a change! The flooded
+river had swept the entire front wall of the strongly-walled city away,
+and about fifty houses had been destroyed by the torrent. Villages of
+Waruguru, on the slopes of the Uruguru Mountains--Mkambaku range--had
+also suffered disastrously. If one-fourth of the reports we heard were
+true, at least a hundred people must have perished.
+
+The Sultana had fled, and the stronghold of Kimbengo was no more! A deep
+canal that he had caused to be excavated when alive, to bring a branch
+of the Ungerengeri near his city--which was his glory and boast--proved
+the ruin of Simbamwenni. After the destruction of the place the river
+had formed a new bed, about 300 yards from the city. But what astonished
+us most were the masses of debris which seemed to be piled everywhere,
+and the great numbers of trees that were prostrate; and they all seemed
+to lie in the same direction, as if a strong wind had come from
+the south-west. The aspect of the Ungerengeri valley was completely
+changed--from a Paradise it was converted into a howling waste.
+
+We continued our march until we reached Ulagalla, and it was evident,
+as we advanced, that an unusual storm had passed over the land, for the
+trees in some places seemed to lie in swathes.
+
+A most fatiguing and long march brought us to Mussoudi, on the eastern
+bank of the Ungerengeri; but long before we reached it we realized that
+a terrific destruction of human life and property had occurred. The
+extent and nature of the calamity may be imagined, when I state that
+nearly ONE HUNDRED VILLAGES, according to Mussoudi's report, were swept
+away.
+
+Mussoudi, the Diwan, says that the inhabitants had gone to rest as
+usual--as they had done ever since he had settled in the valley,
+twenty-five years ago--when, in the middle of the night, they heard a
+roar like many thunders, which woke them up to the fact that death was
+at work in the shape of an enormous volume of water, that, like a wall,
+came down, tearing the tallest trees with it, carrying away scores of
+villages at one fell, sure swoop into utter destruction. The scene
+six days after the event--when the river has subsided into its normal
+breadth and depth during the monsoons--is simply awful. Wherever we
+look, we find something very suggestive of the devastation that has
+visited the country; fields of corn are covered with many feet of sand
+and debris; the sandy bed the river has deserted is about a mile wide;
+and there are but three villages standing of all that I noticed when en
+route to Unyanyembe. When I asked Mussoudi where the people had gone to,
+he replied, "God has taken most of them, but some have gone to Udoe."
+The surest blow ever struck at the tribe of the Wakami was indeed given
+by the hand of God; and, to use the words of the Diwan, "God's power is
+wonderful, and who can resist Him!"
+
+I again resort to my Diary, and extract the following:
+
+April 30th.--Passing Msuwa, we travelled hurriedly through the jungle
+which saw such hard work with us when going to Unyanyembe. What dreadful
+odors and indescribable loathing this jungle produces! It is so dense
+that a tiger could not crawl through it; it is so impenetrable that
+an elephant could not force his way! Were a bottleful of concentrated
+miasma, such as we inhale herein, collected, what a deadly poison,
+instantaneous in its action, undiscoverable in its properties, would it
+be! I think it would act quicker than chloroform, be as fatal as prussic
+acid.
+
+Horrors upon horrors are in it. Boas above our heads, snakes and
+scorpions under our feet. Land-crabs, terrapins, and iguanas move about
+in our vicinity. Malaria is in the air we breathe; the road is infested
+with "hotwater" ants, which bite our legs until we dance and squirm
+about like madmen. Yet, somehow, we are fortunate enough to escape
+annihilation, and many another traveller might also. Yet here, in
+verity, are the ten plagues of Egypt, through which a traveller in these
+regions must run the gauntlet:
+
+1. Plague of boas. | 7. Suffocation from the 2. Red ants, or
+"hot-water." | density of the jungle. 3 Scorpions. | 8. Stench.
+4. Thorns and spear cacti. | 9. Thorns in the road. 5. Numerous
+impediments. | 10. Miasma. 6 Black mud knee-deep. |
+
+May 1st. Kingaru Hera.--We heard news of a great storm having raged at
+Zanzibar, which has destroyed every house and every ship,--so the story
+runs;--and the same destruction has visited Bagamoyo and Whinde, they
+say. But I am by this time pretty well acquainted with the exaggerative
+tendency of the African. It is possible that serious loss has been
+sustained, from the evidences of the effects of the storm in the
+interior. I hear, also, that there are white men at Bagamoyo, who are
+about starting into the country to look after me (?). Who would look
+after me, I cannot imagine. I think they must have some confused idea of
+my Expedition; though, how they came to know that I was looking for
+any man I cannot conceive, because I never told a soul until I reached
+Unyanyembe.
+
+May 2nd. Rosako.--I had barely arrived at the village before the three
+men I despatched from Mvumi, Ugogo, entered, bringing with them from the
+generous American Consul a few bottles of champagne, a few pots of
+jam, and two boxes of Boston crackers. These were most welcome after my
+terrible experiences in the Makata Valley. Inside one of these boxes,
+carefully put up by the Consul, were four numbers of the 'Herald'; one
+of which contained my correspondence from Unyanyembe, wherein were some
+curious typographical errors, especially in figures and African names.
+I suppose my writing was wretched, owing to my weakness. In another are
+several extracts from various newspapers, in which I learn that many
+editors regard the Expedition into Africa as a myth. Alas! it has been
+a terrible, earnest fact with me; nothing but hard, conscientious
+work, privation, sickness, and almost death. Eighteen men have paid
+the forfeit of their lives in the undertaking. It certainly is not a
+myth--the death of my two white assistants; they, poor fellows, found
+their fate in the inhospitable regions of the interior.
+
+One of my letters received from Zanzibar by my messengers states that
+there is an expedition at Bagamoyo called the "Livingstone Search and
+Relief Expedition." What will the leaders of it do now? Livingstone is
+found and relieved already. Livingstone says he requires nothing more.
+It is a misfortune that they did not start earlier; then they might with
+propriety proceed, and be welcomed.
+
+May 4th.---Arrived at Kingwere's Ferry, but we were unable to attract
+the attention of the canoe paddler. Between our camp and Bagamoyo we
+have an inundated plain that is at least four miles broad. The
+ferrying of our Expedition across this broad watery waste will occupy
+considerable time.
+
+May 5th.--Kingwere, the canoe proprietor, came about 11 A.M. from his
+village at Gongoni, beyond the watery plain. By his movements I am fain
+to believe him to be a descendant of some dusky King Log, for I have
+never seen in all this land the attributes and peculiarities of that
+royal personage so faithfully illustrated as in Kingwere. He brought two
+canoes with him, short, cranky things, in which only twelve of us could
+embark at a time. It was 3 o'clock in the afternoon before we arrived at
+Gongoni village.
+
+May 6th.--After impressing Kingwere with the urgent necessity of quick
+action on his part, with a promise of an extra five-dollar gold piece, I
+had the satisfaction to behold the last man reach my camp at 3.30 p.m.
+
+An hour later, and we are en route, at a pace that I never saw equalled
+at any time by my caravan. Every man's feelings are intensified, for
+there is an animated, nay, headlong, impetuosity about their movements
+that indicates but too well what is going on in their minds. Surely, my
+own are a faithful index to their feelings; and I do not feel a whit too
+proud to acknowledge the great joy that possesses me. I feel proud
+to think that I have been successful; but, honestly, I do not feel so
+elated at that as at the hope that to-morrow I shall sit before a table
+bounteous with the good things of this life. How I will glory in the
+hams, and potatoes, and good bread! What a deplorable state of mind, is
+it not? Ah, my friend, wait till you are reduced to a skeleton by gaunt
+famine and coarse, loathsome food--until you have waded a Makata swamp,
+and marched 525 miles in thirty-five days through such weather as we
+have had--then you will think such pabula, food fit for gods!
+
+Happy are we that,--after completing our mission, after the hurry
+and worry of the march, after the anxiety and vexation suffered from
+fractious tribes, after tramping for the last fifteen days through mire
+and Stygian marsh,--we near Beulah's peace and rest! Can we do otherwise
+than express our happiness by firing away gunpowder until our horns are
+emptied--than shout our "hurrahs" until we are hoarse--than, with the
+hearty, soul-inspiring "Yambos," greet every mother's son fresh from the
+sea? Not so, think the Wangwana soldiers; and I so sympathize with them
+that I permit them to act their maddest without censure.
+
+At sunset we enter the town of Bagamoyo. "More pilgrims come to town,"
+were the words heard in Beulah. "The white man has come to town," were
+the words we heard in Bagamoyo. And we shall cross the water tomorrow to
+Zanzibar, and shall enter the golden gate; we shall see nothing, smell
+nothing, taste nothing that is offensive to the stomach any more!
+
+The kirangozi blows his horn, and gives forth blasts potential as
+Astolpho's, as the natives and Arabs throng around us. And that bright
+flag, whose stars have waved over the waters of the great lake in
+Central Africa, which promised relief to the harassed Livingstone when
+in distress at Ujiji, returns to the sea once again--torn, it is true,
+but not dishonoured--tattered, but not disgraced.
+
+As we reached the middle of the town, I saw on the steps of a large
+white house a white man, in flannels and helmet similar to that I wore.
+I thought myself rather akin to white men in general, and I walked up
+to him. He advanced towards me, and we shook hands--did everything but
+embrace.
+
+"Won't you walk in?" said he.
+
+"Thanks."
+
+"What will you have to drink--beer, stout, brandy? Eh, by George! I
+congratulate you on your splendid success," said he, impetuously.
+
+I knew him immediately. He was an Englishman. He was Lieut. William
+Henn, R.N., chief of the Livingstone Search and Relief Expedition, about
+to be despatched by the Royal Geographical Society to find and relieve
+Livingstone. The former chief, as the Expedition was at first organized,
+was Lieut. Llewellyn S. Dawson, who, as soon as he heard from my men
+that I had found Livingstone, had crossed over to Zanzibar, and, after
+consultation with Dr. John Kirk, had resigned. He had now nothing
+further to do with it, the command having formally devolved on Lieut.
+Henn. A Mr. Charles New, also, missionary from Mombasah, had joined the
+expedition, but he had resigned too. So now there were left but Lieut.
+Henn and Mr. Oswell Livingstone, second son of the Doctor.
+
+"Is Mr. Oswell Livingstone here?" I asked, with considerable surprise.
+
+"Yes; he will be here directly."
+
+"What are you going to do now?" I asked.
+
+"I don't think it worth my while to go now. You have taken the wind out
+of our sails completely. If you have relieved him, I don't see the use
+of my going. Do you?"
+
+"Well, it depends. You know your own orders best. If you have come only
+to find and relieve him, I can tell you truly he is found and relieved,
+and that he wants nothing more than a few canned meats, and some other
+little things which I dare say you have not got. I have his list in his
+own handwriting with me. But his son must go anyhow, and I can get men
+easily enough for him."
+
+"Well, if he is relieved, it is of no use my going."
+
+
+At this time in walked a slight, young, gentlemanly man, with light
+complexion, light hair, dark, lustrous eyes, who was introduced to me
+as Mr. Oswell Livingstone. The introduction was hardly necessary, for in
+his features there was much of what were the specialities of his father.
+There was an air of quiet resolution about him, and in the greeting
+which he gave me he exhibited rather a reticent character; but I
+attributed that to a receptive nature, which augured well for the
+future.
+
+"I was telling Lieut. Henn that, whether he goes or not, you must go to
+your father, Mr. Livingstone."
+
+"Oh, I mean to go."
+
+"Yes, that's right. I will furnish you with men and what stores your
+father needs. My men will take you to Unyanyembe without any difficulty.
+They know the road well, and that is a great advantage. They know how
+to deal with the negro chiefs, and you will have no need to trouble your
+head about them, but march. The great thing that is required is speed.
+Your father will be waiting for the things."
+
+"I will march them fast enough, if that is all."
+
+"Oh, they will be going up light, and they can easily make long
+marches."
+
+It was settled, then. Henn made up his mind that, as the Doctor had been
+relieved, he was not wanted; but, before formally resigning, he intended
+to consult with Dr. Kirk, and for that purpose he would cross over to
+Zanzibar the next day with the 'Herald' Expedition.
+
+At 2 A.M. I retired to sleep on a comfortable bed. There was a great
+smell of newness about certain articles in the bedroom, such as
+haversacks, knapsacks, portmanteaus, leather gun-cases, &c. Evidently
+the new Expedition had some crudities about it; but a journey into the
+interior would soon have lessened the stock of superfluities, which all
+new men at first load themselves with.
+
+Ah! what a sigh of relief was that I gave, as I threw myself on my bed,
+at the thought that, "Thank God! my marching was ended."
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI. -- VALEDICTORY.
+
+At 5 P.M., on the 7th of May, 1872, the dhow which conveyed my
+Expedition back to Zanzibar arrived in the harbor, and the men,
+delighted to find themselves once more so near their homes, fired volley
+after volley, the American flag was hoisted up, and we soon saw the
+house-roofs and wharves lined with spectators, many of whom were
+Europeans, with glasses levelled at us.
+
+We drew ashore slowly; but a boat putting off to take us to land, we
+stepped into it, and I was soon in presence of my friend the Consul, who
+heartily welcomed me back to Zanzibar; and soon after was introduced to
+the Rev. Charles New, who was but a day or two previous to my arrival an
+important member of the English Search Expedition--a small, slight man
+in appearance, who, though he looked weakly, had a fund of energy or
+nervousness in him which was almost too great for such a body. He also
+heartily congratulated me.
+
+After a bounteous dinner, to which I did justice in a manner that
+astonished my new friends, Lieut. Dawson called to see me, and said:
+
+"Mr. Stanley, let me congratulate you, sir."
+
+Lieut. Dawson then went on to state how he envied me my success; how I
+had "taken the wind out of his sails" (a nautical phrase similar to
+that used by Lieut. Henn); how, when he heard from my men that Dr.
+Livingstone had been found, he at once crossed over from Bagamoyo to
+Zanzibar, and, after a short talk with Dr. Kirk, at once resigned.
+
+"But do you not think, Mr. Dawson, you have been rather too hasty in
+tendering your resignation, from the more verbal report of my men?"
+
+"Perhaps," said he; "but I heard that Mr. Webb had received a letter
+from you, and that you and Livingstone had discovered that the Rusizi
+ran into the lake--that you had the Doctor's letters and despatches with
+you."
+
+"Yes; but you acquired all this information from my men; you have seen
+nothing yourself. You have therefore resigned before you had personal
+evidence of the fact."
+
+"Well, Dr. Livingstone is relieved and found, as Mr. Henn tells me, is
+he not?"
+
+"Yes, that is true enough. He is well supplied; he only requires a few
+little luxuries, which I am going to send him by an expedition of fifty
+freemen. Dr. Livingstone is found and relieved, most certainly; and I
+have all the letters and despatches which he could possibly send to his
+friends."
+
+"But don't you think I did perfectly right?"
+
+"Hardly--though, perhaps, it would come to the same thing in the end.
+Any more cloth and beads than he has already would be an incumbrance.
+Still, you have your orders from the Royal Geographical Society. I have
+not seen those yet, and I am not prepared to judge what your best course
+would have been. But I think you did wrong in resigning before you
+saw me; for then you would have had, probably, a legitimate excuse for
+resigning. I should have held on to the Expedition until I had consulted
+with those who sent me; though, in such an event as this, the order
+would be, perhaps, to 'Come home.'"
+
+"As it has turned out, though, don't you think I did right?"
+
+"Most certainly it would be useless for you to go to search for and
+relieve Livingstone now, because he has already been sought, found, and
+relieved; but perhaps you had other orders."
+
+"Only, if I went into the country, I was then to direct my attention to
+exploration; but the primary object having been forestalled by you, I am
+compelled to return home. The Admiralty granted me leave of absence only
+for the search, and never said anything about exploration."
+
+That evening I despatched a boy over to the English Consulate
+with letters from the great traveller for Dr. Kirk and Mr. Oswell
+Livingstone.
+
+I was greeted warmly by the American and German residents, who could not
+have shown warmer feeling than if Dr. Livingstone had been a near and
+dear relation of their own. Capt. H. A. Fraser and Dr. James Christie
+were also loud in their praises. It seems that both of these gentlemen
+had attempted to despatch a private expedition to the relief of their
+countryman, but through some means it had failed. They had contributed
+the sum of $500 to effect this laudable object; but the man to whom they
+had entrusted its command had been engaged by another for a different
+purpose, at a higher sum. But, instead of feeling annoyed that I
+had performed what they had intended to do, they were among my most
+enthusiastic admirers.
+
+The next day I received a call from Dr. Kirk, who warmly congratulated
+me upon my success. Bishop Tozer also came, and thanked me for tie
+service I had rendered to Dr. Livingstone.
+
+On this day I also discharged my men, and re-engaged twenty of them
+to return to the "Great Master." Bombay, though in the interior he had
+scorned the idea of money rewards, and though he had systematically,
+in my greatest need, endeavoured to baffle me in every way, received,
+besides his pay, a present of $50, and each man, according to his
+merits, from $20 to $50. For this was a day to bury all animosities,
+and condone all offences. They, poor people, had only acted according to
+their nature, and I remembered that from Ujiji to the coast they had all
+behaved admirably.
+
+I saw I was terribly emaciated and changed when I presented myself
+before a full-length mirror. All confirmed my opinion that I was much
+older in my appearance, and that my hair had become grey. Capt. Fraser
+had said, when I hailed him, "You have the advantage of me, sir!" and
+until I mentioned my name he did not know me. Even then he jocosely
+remarked that he believed that it was another Tichborne affair. I was so
+different that identity was almost lost, even during the short period of
+thirteen months; that is, from March 23rd, 1871, to May 7th, 1872.
+
+Lieut. Henn the morning after my arrival formally resigned, and the
+Expedition was from this time in the hands of Mr. Oswell Livingstone,
+who made up his mind to sell the stores, retaining such as would be
+useful to his father.
+
+After disbanding my Expedition, I set about preparing another, according
+to Dr. Livingstone's request. What the English Expedition lacked I
+purchased out of the money advanced by Mr. Oswell Livingstone. The guns,
+fifty in number, were also furnished out of the stores of the English
+Expedition by him; and so were the ammunition, the honga cloth, for the
+tribute to the Wagogo, and the cloth for provisioning the force. Mr.
+Livingstone worked hard in the interests of his father and assisted me
+to the utmost of his ability. He delivered over to me, to be packed
+up, 'Nautical Almanacs' for 1872, 1873, 1874; also a chronometer,
+which formerly belonged to Dr. Livingstone. All these things, besides a
+journal, envelopes, note-books, writing-paper, medicines, canned fruits
+and fish, a little wine, some tea, cutlery and table ware, newspapers,
+and private letters and despatches, were packed up in air-tight tin
+boxes, as well as 100 lbs. of fine American flour, and some boxes of
+soda biscuits.
+
+Until the 19th of May it was understood that Mr. Oswell Livingstone
+would take charge of the caravan to his father; but about this date he
+changed his mind, and surprised me with a note stating he had decided
+not to go to Unyanyembe, for reasons he thought just and sufficient.
+
+Under these circumstances, my duty was to follow out the instructions of
+Dr. Livingstone, in procuring a good and efficient leader to take charge
+of the caravan as far as Unyanyembe.
+
+In a few hours I succeeded in obtaining an Arab highly recommended from
+Sheikh Hashid, whom I engaged at an advance of $100. The young Arab,
+though not remarkably bright, seemed honest and able, but I left his
+further employment after reaching Unyanyembe to Dr. Livingstone, who
+would be able to decide then whether he was quite trustworthy.
+
+The next day I collected the men of the new Livingstone Expedition
+together, and as it was dangerous to allow them to wander about the
+city, I locked them up in a courtyard, and fed them there, until every
+soul, fifty seven in number, answered to their names.
+
+In the meantime, through the American Consul's assistance, I obtained
+the services of Johari, the chief dragoman of the American Consulate,
+who was charged with the conduct of the party across the inundated plain
+of the Kingani, and who was enjoined on no account to return until the
+Expedition had started on its march from the western bank of the Kingani
+River. Mr. Oswell Livingstone generously paid him a douceur for the
+promise of doing his work thoroughly.
+
+A dhow having been brought to anchor before the American Consulate, I
+then addressed my old companions, saying, "You are now about to return
+to Unyanyembe, to the 'Great Master'. You know him; you know he is a
+good man, and has a kind heart. He is different from me; he will not
+beat you, as I have done. But you know I have rewarded you all--how
+I have made you all rich in cloth and money. You know how, when you
+behaved yourselves well, I was your friend. I gave you plenty to eat and
+plenty to wear. When you were sick I looked after you. If I was so
+good to you, the 'Great Master' will be much more so. He has a pleasant
+voice, and speaks kind. When did you ever see him lift his hand against
+an offender? When you were wicked, he did not speak to you in anger--he
+spoke to you in tones of sorrow. Now, will you promise me that you will
+follow him--do what he tells you, obey him in all things, and not desert
+him?"
+
+"We will, we will, my master!" they all cried, fervently.
+
+"Then there is one thing more. I want to shake hands with you all before
+you go--and we part for ever;" and they all rushed up at once, and a
+vigorous shake was interchanged with each man.
+
+"Now, let every man take up his load!"
+
+In a short time I marched them out into the street, and to the beach;
+saw them all on board, and the canvas hoisted, and the dhow speeding
+westward on her way to Bagamoyo.
+
+I felt strange and lonely, somehow. My dark friends, who had travelled
+over so many hundreds of miles, and shared so many dangers with me, were
+gone, and I--was left behind. How many of their friendly faces shall I
+see again?
+
+On the 29th, the steamer 'Africa,' belonging to the German Consulate,
+was chartered by a party of five of us, and we departed from Zanzibar to
+Seychelles, with the good wishes of almost all the European residents on
+the island.
+
+We arrived at Seychelles on the 9th of June, about twelve hours
+after the French mail had departed for Aden. As there is only monthly
+communication between Mahe (Seychelles) and Aden, we were compelled to
+remain on the island of Mahe one month.
+
+My life in Mahe is among the most agreeable things connected with my
+return from Africa. I found my companions estimable gentlemen, and true
+Christians. Mr. Livingstone exhibited many amiable traits of character,
+and proved himself to be a studious, thoughtful, earnest man. When at
+last the French steamer came from Mauritius, there was not one of
+our party who did not regret leaving the beautiful island, and the
+hospitable British officers who were stationed there. The Civil
+Commissioner, Mr. Hales Franklyn, and Dr. Brooks, did their utmost to
+welcome the wanderer, and I take this opportunity to acknowledge the
+many civilities I personally received from them.
+
+At Aden, the passengers from the south were transferred on board the
+French mail steamer, the 'Mei-kong,' en route from China to Marseilles.
+At the latter port I was received with open arms by Dr. Hosmer and
+the representative of the 'Daily Telegraph,' and was then told how men
+regarded the results of the Expedition; but it was not until I arrived
+in England that I realised it.
+
+Mr. Bennett, who originated and sustained the enterprise, now crowned it
+by one of the most generous acts that could be conceived. I had promised
+Dr. Livingstone, that twenty-four hours after I saw his letters to Mr.
+Bennett published in the London journals, I would post his letters to
+his family and friends in England. In order to permit me to keep my
+plighted word, and in order that there might be no delay in the delivery
+of his family letters, Mr. Bennett's agent telegraphed to New York the
+'Herald' letters I had received from Dr. Livingstone at an expense of
+nearly £2,000.
+
+And now, dear reader, the time has come for you and I to part. Let us
+hope that it is not final. A traveller finds himself compelled to repeat
+the regretful parting word often. During the career recorded in the
+foregoing book, I have bidden many farewells; to the Wagogo, with their
+fierce effrontery; to Mionvu, whose blackmailing once so affected me; to
+the Wavinza, whose noisy clatter promised to provoke dire hostilities;
+to the inhospitable Warundi; to the Arab slave-traders and half-castes;
+to all fevers, remittent, and intermittent; to the sloughs and swamps
+of Makata; to the brackish waters and howling wastes; to my own
+dusky friends and followers, and to the hero-traveller and Christian
+gentleman, David Livingstone. It is with kindliest wishes to all
+who have followed my footsteps on these pages that I repeat once
+more--Farewell.
+
+
+
+CONCLUDING CHAPTER.
+
+
+The following correspondence, and especially the last letter, which
+was accompanied by a beautiful and valuable gold snuff-box set with
+brilliants, will be treasured by me as among the pleasantest results of
+my undertaking.
+
+H. M. S.
+
+Foreign Office, August 1.
+
+Sir, I am directed by Earl Granville to acknowledge the receipt of a
+packet containing letters and despatches from Dr. Livingstone, which
+you were good enough to deliver to her Majesty's ambassador at Paris
+for transmission to this department; and I am to convey to you his
+Lordship's thanks for taking charge of these interesting documents.
+
+I am, Sir,
+
+Your most obedient humble servant, ENFIELD.
+
+Henry M. Stanley, Esq., 'New York Herald Bureau,' 46, Fleet Street,
+London,
+
+------ooo----
+
+
+
+London, August 2.
+
+Henry M. Stanley, Esq., has handed to me to-day the diary of
+Dr. Livingstone, my father, sealed and signed by my father, with
+instructions written on the outside, signed by my father, for the care
+of which, and for all his actions concerning and to my father, our very
+best thanks are due. We have not the slightest reason to doubt that this
+is my father's journal, and I certify that the letters he has brought
+home are my father's letters, and no others.
+
+Tom S. Livingstone
+
+------------oooo-------
+
+August 2, 1872.
+
+Sir, I was not aware until you mentioned it that there was any doubt as
+to the authenticity of Dr. Livingstone's despatches, which you delivered
+to Lord Lyons on the 31st of July. But, in consequence of what you
+said I have inquired into the matter, and I find that Mr. Hammond, the
+Under-Secretary of the Foreign Office, and Mr. Wylde, the head of the
+Consular and Slave Trade Department, have not the slightest doubt as to
+the genuineness of the papers which have been received from Lord Lyons,
+and which are being printed.
+
+I cannot omit this opportunity, of expressing to you my admiration
+of the qualities which have enabled you to achieve the object of your
+mission, and to attain a result which has been hailed with so much
+enthusiasm both in the United States and in this country.
+
+I am, Sir,
+
+Your obedient,
+
+GRANVILLE.
+
+Henry Stanley, Esq.
+
+
+-------------oooo-------
+
+Foreign Office, August 27.
+
+SIR,
+
+I have great satisfaction in conveying to you, by command of the Queen,
+her Majesty's high appreciation of the prudence and zeal which you have
+displayed in opening a communication with Dr. Livingstone, and relieving
+her Majesty from the anxiety which, in common with her subjects, she had
+felt in regard to the fate of that distinguished traveller.
+
+The Queen desires me to express her thanks for the service you have thus
+rendered, together with her Majesty's congratulations on your having so
+successfully carried on the mission which you fearlessly undertook. Her
+Majesty also desires me to request your acceptance of the memorial which
+accompanies this letter.
+
+I am, Sir,
+
+Your most obedient humble servant,
+
+GRANVILLE
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  GLOSSARY.
+
+  Boma.......   enclosure.
+
+  Bubu.......   black beads.
+
+  Diwan......   elder, chief, or magistrate.
+
+  Doti......   four yards of cloth.
+
+  Dowa......   medicine.
+
+  Fundo......    ten necklaces, or ten khetes.
+
+  Ghulabio.....    a species of bead.
+
+  Hafde .....    a species of bead.
+
+  Hamal .....    carrier.
+
+  Honga .....    tribute.
+
+  Ismahili.....    a native name for a particular kind of cloth.
+
+  Kadunguru.....    a brick-coloured species of bead.
+
+  Kaif-Halek....    "How do you do?"
+
+  Kaniki   ....    a blue cloth manufactured in India.
+
+  Knambi   ....    camp.
+
+  Khete   ....    one necklace, or a tenth of a fundo.
+
+  Kichuma-chuma...    "Little Irons," a disease of the liver.
+
+  Kirangozi....      guide.
+
+  Kitambi ....      a cloth.
+
+  Kiti.....      stool.
+
+  Lakhio.....      a pink-coloured species of bead.
+
+  Lunghio.....      blue beads.
+
+  Lunghio mbamba...      small blue beads.
+
+  Lunghio rega...      large blue beads.
+
+  M    .....      a prefix to denote a person of any
+                              country as M-jiji, a native of Jiji.
+
+  Manyapara....      elder, or sub-chief.
+
+  Matama.....      Holcus sorghum, or the Arabic dourra.
+
+  Mbembu.....      forest peach
+
+  Merikani.....      unbleached domestics manufactured in
+                              America.
+
+  Mganga.....      a medicine man, or magic doctor,
+
+  Miezi-Mungu....      a Kisawahili term for "God."
+
+  Mtemi   ....      a term synonymous with king
+
+  Mtoni.....      nullah.
+
+  Muhongo.....      tribute.
+
+  Mulungu.....      a native term for "God."
+
+  Mukunguru....      intermittent fever.
+
+  Mvuha.....      thunder.
+
+  Ngombe.....      a cow.
+
+  Pagazi.....      a porter, or carrier.
+
+  Posho.....      food.
+
+  Sami-Sami....      the name of red beads
+
+  Shamba.....      a field.
+
+  Shasr.....      a muslin cloth.
+
+  Sheikh.....      a title of courtesy given to an elderly
+                              man.
+
+  Shukka.....      two yards of cloth.
+
+  Sohari.....      a kind of coloured cloth.
+
+  Sungomazzi....      large glass or china beads of the size
+                              of marbles.
+
+  Toujiri.....      the name for a particular kind of cloth.
+
+  U    .....      a prefix to denote the country: thus
+                              U-jiji signifies the country of Jiji.
+
+  Uganga.....      medicine.
+
+  Wa-  .....     a prefix to denote persons: thus Wa-jiji
+                              would signify people of Jiji.
+
+  Washeni.....     a term of contempt applied to the natives.
+
+  Yambo.....     "How are you?"
+
+  Ziwa .....     a pool, or lake,
+
+  Ziwari.....     a pond.
+
+
+
+
+  APPENDIX.
+
+  List of Camps from Bagamoyo to Ujiji and back to the Sea.
+
+
+  THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA.
+
+  From Bagamoyo to--     h.  m.
+  Shamba Gonera...  1  30
+  Kikoka.....   3  40
+  Rosako.....  5   0
+  Kingaru....  6   0
+  Imbiki.....  4  30
+  Msuwa.....  4  30
+
+  From Msuwa to--        h.  m.
+  Kisemo.....  4  30
+  Mussoudi....  4  20
+  Mikeseh....  7   0
+  Muhalleh....  6  45
+  Simbamwenni...  3   0
+
+  TO UGOGO.
+
+  USEGUHA,
+  Ungerengeri River to-- h.  m
+  Simbo.....  2   0
+  Camp in plain...  4  10
+  Makata River...  2  30
+
+  USAGARA.
+  Camp west of Makata.   0   5
+  Camp in plain...  4  30
+  Camp  "   "...  2   0
+  Rehenneko....  3  15
+  Rehenneko to--         h.  m.
+  Camp on mountain..  3  30
+  Kiora.....  3  40
+  Camp on river...  4  50
+  Madete.....  2  30
+  Lake Ugombo....  3   0
+  Matamombo....  6   0
+  Mpwapwa.....  7   0
+  Kisokweh....  2   0
+  Chunyo.....  1  30
+
+
+  FROM UGOGO TO UNYANYEMBE,
+
+  From Marenga Mkali to--h.  m.
+  Mvumi, Little Ugogo   12  30
+  Mvumi, Great Ugogo     4   0
+  Matamburu  "   ".   4   0
+  Bihawana   "   ".   4   0
+  Kididimo   "   ".   2   0
+  Pembera Pereh  ".  10   0
+  Mizanza    "   ".   5  30
+  Mukondoku  "   ".   6  30
+  Munieka    "   ".   5   0
+  Mabunguru Mtoni.
+         Uyanzi          8   0
+  Kiti, Uyanzi...   6  30
+  Msalalo....   6  30
+
+  From Msalalo to--      h.  m.
+  Welled Ngaraiso..   3  30
+  Kusuri.....   3  15
+  Mgongo Tembo...   3  30
+    "      "   Mtoni.   3  30
+  Nghwhalah Mtoni..   2  40
+  Madedita ...   2  30
+  Central Tura, Unyam-
+     wezi....   3   0
+  Kwala River...   7   0
+  Rubuga....   7  15
+  Kigwa ....   5   0
+  Shiza ....   7   0
+  Kwihara....   3   0
+
+
+  UNYANYEMBE TO MRERA, UKONONG0.
+
+
+  UNYAMWEZI.
+  From Kwihara to--      h.  m.
+  Mkwenkwe...    1  30
+  Inesuka ...    2   0
+  Kasegera...    3   0
+  Kigandu ...    2  45
+  Ugunda  ...    7   0
+  Benta   ...    3  15
+  Kikuru  ...    5   0
+  Ziwani  ...    4   0
+  Manyara ...    6  30
+
+  UKONONG0.
+  From Manyara to--      h.  m
+  Gombe River...    4  15
+  Ziwani....    5  20
+  Tongoni....    1  30
+  Camp ....    5  15
+  Marefu....    3   0
+  Utende....    7  15
+  Mtoni....    4   0
+  Mwaru....    5  15
+  Mrera.....    5  13
+
+
+  FROM MRERA, UKONONGO TO UJIJI.
+
+
+
+  UKONONGO,              h.  m.
+
+  From Mrera to Mtoni.  4  30
+  Misonghi....  4  30
+  Mtoni.....  6   0
+  Mpokwa in Utanda..  4  45
+  Mtoni  ....  3   0
+
+  UKAWENDI.              h.  m
+
+  Mtambu River...   4  30
+  Imrera....   4  20
+  Rusawa Mts....   2  30
+  Mtoni ....   4   0
+  Mtoni ....   5   0
+  Camp in Forest... 6   0
+  Camp in Forest... 5  30
+
+  UVINZA
+  Welled Nzogera... 2  30
+  Camp in Forest... 4  15
+  Siala [Kiala?] on the
+     Malagarazi... 2  45
+  Ihata Island in the
+     Malagarazi... 1  30
+  Katalambula... 1  45
+
+  UHHA
+  Kawanga in Uhha..   5  30
+  Lukomo....   1   0
+  Kahirigi....   4   0
+  Rusugi River...   5   0
+  Lake Musunya...   4   0
+  Rugufu River...   4  30
+  Sunuzzi  "...   3   0
+  Niamtaga Ukaranga.   9  30
+
+  UJIJI.
+  Port of Ujiji..   6   0
+
+
+
+
+
+  INDEX
+
+  Abdul Kader, tailor of the Expedition; retirement of,
+  Abdullah bin Nasib,
+  Acacia Horrida,
+  African bridges,
+  Ali bin Salim,
+  Ambari,
+  Amer bin Sultan, type of an old Arab Sheikh,
+  Amram bin Mussood,
+  Ant-hills, remarkable,
+  Ants, white, destructiveness of,
+  Arabs, antipathy to, as slave-traders, in Africa,
+  Aranselar, chief butler of the Expedition,
+  Asmani, giant statue of;
+      his murderous deportment,
+
+  Baba (Father), term of courtesy in addressing elderly persons,
+  Bagamoyo, French Mission Station at; life at; climate of,
+  Bambarre, ivory depot,
+  Bana Mikuba, the "Big Master,'
+  Bangwe Island,
+  Bangweolo Lake,
+  Banyans, keen trading of;
+    their influence on African trade,
+  Baobab, fruit of the,
+  Baruti, one of Speke's Faithfuls,
+     death of,
+  Beads as currency in the Interior,
+  Bees, attack of, on the caravan,
+  Bemba, wooded hills of,
+  Bennet, Mr. James Gordon;
+     generous act of, in respect
+     to Dr. Livingstone's letters,
+  Benta forest,
+  Bihawana,
+  Bikari, cluster of villages,
+  "Bombay," or Mombay,
+  Bomboma's village,
+  Borassus flabelliformis, or Palmyra palm,
+  Brooks, Dr.,
+  Buffalo gnats,
+  ----herd,
+  Bunder Salaam, cook of the Expedition,
+  Burial ceremonies,
+  Burton, Capt., experience of Bunyans,
+  Bustard,
+
+  Cazembe, King; his Queen and her Amazons,
+  Chamati Hill,
+  Chambezi, drainage of,
+  Chambezi, Livingstone's difficulty about the,
+  "Charley's" lodging-house at Zanzibar, kindly spirit of its
+  landlord,
+  Chowpereh, Mgwana soldier,,
+  Christie, Dr., physician to Seyd Burghash
+  Chufwa fly,
+  Chuma, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+  Cloth as currency in the interior,
+  Comorines,
+  Corn-grinding women of Kisemo,
+  Crocodile, narrow escape of author from,
+
+  'Daily Telegraph,' representative of, at Aden,
+  Dawson, Lieut., visit from, conversation as to his resigning
+  command of the Search Expedition
+  Dhows,
+  Dilima Peaks,
+  Dogara, or whitebait,
+  Donkeys, equipment of; fine breed of, in Ubanarama,
+  "Dowa," medicine,
+
+  Earwigs, plague of, at Mpwapwa,
+  Elephantiasis common in Zanzibar,
+  Elephants, herd of; difficulty of shooting,
+  Emancipation Proclamation of Ahraham Lincoln,
+  Esau, Jemadar,
+
+  Farquhar, W. L.;
+     his death; account of,
+  Faulkner, Mr., incredible statements of,
+  Ferajji,
+  Fire-arms, what most suitable to the traveller
+  Fish-eagle,
+  Forest peach,
+  Forest scenery of Unyarnwezi,
+  Foreign Office, letters from,
+  Franklyn, Mr. Hales,
+  Fraser, Capt.,
+  Freiligrath's description of the lion's habitat,
+  French Mlissionaries, practical character of; Mission Station
+     at Bagamoyo,
+
+  Giraffes, difficulty of killing,
+  Glossina mortisans, or tsetse fly
+  Goma Pass;
+  Granville, Lord, letter from, conveying the thanks of Queen
+    Victoria and the announcement of the Royal present,
+  Goodhue, Mr., or "Bana Mkuba."
+
+  Haematite,
+  Half-castes, contemptible character
+  Halimah, Dr. Livingstone's cook,
+  Hassan, the Mseguhha,
+  Henn Lieut, his meeting with the author; resigns the leadership
+  Herembe, Cape,
+  Herodotus, his account of the Nile sources,
+  Hindis, Mohammedan, cheating character of,
+  Hippopotami
+  Honey-bird; habits of,
+  Honga, or tribute,
+  Hosmer, Dr.,
+  Hunters Paradise, the,
+  Hyaenas,
+
+  Ibrahim bin Rashid slain,
+  Ihata Island,
+  Imbiki,
+  Itage village,
+
+  Jako, employe of the Expedition,
+  Jesuit Mission at Pagamoyo,
+  Jiweh la Singa district,
+  Johari, dragoman,
+  Jumah,
+  Jungle of Msuwa, its horrors,
+
+  Kabogi, Cape,
+  Kabogo Mountain, singular phenomenon of,
+  Kadetamare, or Misonghi, village,.
+  Kahirigi, boma of,
+  Kaif-Halek or "How-do-ye-do," the letter carrier,
+  Kalulu, the boy-slave,
+  Kamolondo Lake,
+  Kanengi River,
+  Kaniyaga village
+  Kanjee,
+  Kanyamabengu River,
+  Kanyenyi,
+  Kayeh, a myth,
+  Kasera ridge,
+  Katanga, copper mines of,
+  Katangara Islands,
+  Kavimba,
+  Khamis bin Abdullah; his death,
+  Khamisi, desertion of; his narrow escape; flogged for
+          desertion; precis of character,
+  Khonze, remarkable globes of foliage at
+  Kiala, chief,
+  Kigoma Bay,
+  Kigonda, chief,
+  Kigwena River,
+  Kikoka village,
+  Kikuma River,
+  Kingari River,
+  ----    Valley,
+  Kingaru village
+  Kingwere, the canoe paddler
+  Kiora village,; Peak
+  Kirindo, chief,
+  Kirurumo village,
+  Kisabengo, chief, a minor Theodore,
+  Kisemo village; belles of,
+  Kisuka village,
+  Kisunwe River,
+  Kitanda or bedstead,
+  Kitii defile,
+  Kitunda Cape,
+  Kiwyeh, Sultan of; village,
+  Kiwrima Valley,
+  Kolquall or candelabra tree,
+  Kudu,
+  Kukumba Point,
+  Kulabi,
+  Kusuri or Konsuli,
+  Kwala Mtoni,
+  Kwikuru,
+
+  Lares and Penates of the Wazavira,
+  Leukole's account of Farquhar's death,
+  Liemba, Lake,
+  Lincoln, Abraham, lake named after, by Livingstone,
+  Lion and leopard, home of the; Freiligrath's description of,
+  Liuche, valley of the,
+  Livingstone, Dr., the author's first interview with, at Ujiji;
+       his anxiety for news; the low ebb of his resources;
+       his early rising; took the author for an emissary of the
+       French Government; his hard fare; his suffering and privations;
+       revival of his enthusiasm; his guileless character;
+       his physical appearance,; absurd report of his marriage,
+       his general character and careful observations; sensitiveness
+       of criticism; amiable traits of his character, and his Spartan
+       heroism; his high spirits, inexhaustible humour, and retentive
+       memory; sincerity of his religion; ability to withstand the
+       African climate, due to his temperate life; his determination
+       to complete his task, spite of all difficulties, completeness
+       of his discoveries; summary of his experiences; interview with
+       King Cazembe; difficulty as to the Chambezi; discovery of Lake
+       Liemba; investigation of the Luapula; intervention in behalf of
+       Mahomed bin Sali repaid by base ingratitude; exploration of Uguhha;
+       sufferings at Bambarre, discovery of the Lualaba, description of
+       the beauties of Moero scenery; admiration of Abraham Lincoln;
+       his belief that the Lualaba or Webb's River is the true Nile;
+       his admission that the Nile sources have not been found;
+       his opinion as to the account of Herodotus; thwarted by the
+       cowardice of his men; return to Ujiji; dishonesty of Sherif;
+       destitute condition of the Doctor, his complaint of the Zanzibar
+       people not sending him freemen; improvement of his health from
+       more generous diet, contemplated cruise on the Tanganika; start
+       from Ujiji; liability to dysentery; manner of dealing with demands
+       for honga; loss of stores, &c., from Bombay's intoxication
+       his unwillingness to retaliate on the hostile natives, his
+       tenderness in sickness, disturbed in bed by his servant Susi in
+       a state of intoxication; his opinion that the Tanganika must have
+       an outlet; names the Kavunvweh islands the "New York Herald
+       Islets,"; his coolness at the hostility of the Wasansi, calms
+       them down by his gentle bearing and conversation; his resolve
+       to finish his task,; complaint of Dr. Kirk's sending only slaves;
+       resolves to accompany the author to Unyanyembe; his sufferings on
+       the road; at Mpokwa's village,; his value as a travelling companion;
+       stung by wild bees; his qualifications as a traveller,
+       peaceful recollections of his wife's grave, his relation of
+       incidents of the life of his son Robert; arrival at Ugundo,
+       letters from Dr. Kirk and home; welcome to Unyanyembe; in
+       comfortable quarters and in possession of stores; wreck of the
+       stores detained by Sayd bin Salim; in possession of four years'
+       store of supplies; his letter to Mr. Bennett, jun.; probable
+       results of his perseverance in African discovery; his last day
+       with the author; his intentions as to the future; the parting
+       farewell,
+  Livingstone, Mr. Oswell, introduction to; equipment of his proposed
+      expedition; determines to resign,
+  Livingstone, Robert Moffatt, incidents of his life,
+  Lizard, large,
+  Loeki or Lomani River,
+  Lualaba or "Webb's River" of Livingstone; thought by him to be the
+      true Nile,
+  Luapula River,
+  Lubilash River,
+  Ludha Damji,
+  Lufira River,
+  Luhanga Peak,
+  Lukomo village,
+  Luvumba Cape,
+
+  Mabruki, cruel treatment of;
+  Mabunguru Nullah,
+  Madedita,
+  Magala, Mutware of,
+  Maganga,
+  Magunda Mkali,
+  Mahommed bin Sali, his release by Livingstone and subsequent
+        ingratitude,
+  Maizun, Mons.,
+  Makata Valley; River; Plain,
+  Makumbi, chief,
+  Malagash, Inlet,
+  Malagarazi River,
+  Manyuema country, people of; the El Dorado of the Arabs; sought
+        as slaves,
+  Maganga,
+  Marefu,
+  Marenga Mkali,
+  Masangi,
+  Masika, or rainy season,
+  Matamombo,
+  Mazitu, marauding propensities of,
+  Mbawala, species of antelope,
+  Mbembu, or forest peach,
+  Mdaburu River,
+  Medicine for daubing warriors,
+  Mfuto, Eastern,
+  Mgongo Tembo, or "Elephant's Back,"
+  Mgwana,
+  Mikiseh,
+  Mionvu, Mutware of Kimenyi,
+  Mirambo; defeated at Mfuto,
+  Misonghi, deserted village,
+  Mizanza,
+  Mkuti River,
+  Mkuyu, gigantic sycamore,
+  Moero Lake; beauty of the scenery,
+  Mohammed bin Abdulla slain,
+  Mohammed bin Gharib,
+  Monkeys, troop of,
+  Morris, Hon. E. J.,
+  Mpokwa River,
+  Mponda, chief,
+  Mpwapwh, its fruitfulness;
+        Mountains,
+  Mrera, chief,
+  ---, warriors of,
+  Msuwa,
+  Mtemi, chief,
+  Mud-fish,
+  Mugere River,
+  Mugeyo village,
+  Mugihewa territory,
+  Mukamba, chief,
+  Mukondoku, chief,
+  Mukondokwa Range; Pass; River,
+  Mukungu,
+  Mukunguru, African intermittent fever,
+  Munieka,
+  Muniyi Usagara,
+  Murembwe Cape; Point,
+  Musa, chief of the Johanna men,
+  Muscat Arabs of Zanzibar,
+  Mussoudi, the Diwan's account of an extraordinary flood,
+  Musunya Lake,
+  Muzimu Island,
+  Mvumi village,
+  Mwaru,
+  Myombo tree,
+  Mussoud bin Abdhullah,
+  Mussoudi; beautiful prospect at,
+
+  "Nazi-Moya" at Zanzibar,
+  Negroes of Zanzibar; character of,
+  New, Rev. Charles, introduction to,
+  "New York Herald" Islets,
+  Ngaraiso village,
+  Nghwhalah River,
+  Nguru Peak,
+  Niamtaga,
+  Niasanga village,
+  Niongo,
+  Nondo, Spoke's runaway,
+  Nyabigma Island,
+  Nyambwa,
+  Nzoe, antelope of Speke,
+
+  "Omar," Mr. Stanley's watchdog; death of,
+
+  Pallah buck,
+  Pembera Pereh, Sultan,
+  Perpusilla, the,
+  Piaggia, the Italian traveller,
+  Pisolitic limestone,
+  Pottery, native, of the Wazavira,
+  Price, Simon, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+
+  Queen Victoria, letter conveying the thanks of Her Majesty and
+  the announcement of the Royal present,
+
+  Rehenneko village,
+  Rosako village,
+  Rua country; people,
+  Rubeho Slopes; Peak,
+  Rubuga,
+  Rudewa River,
+  Rugufu Lake,
+  Ruhinga, chief,
+  Rusizi River; problem of; delta of,
+
+  Said bin Majid,
+  Salim bin Rashid,
+  Sultana of Simbamwenni,
+  Sami-sami, red beads,
+  Sayf, son of Ali, slain,
+  Sayd bin Salim's house,
+  Selim, interpreter,
+  ----, the Arab boy,
+  Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar,
+  Sitting on pombe,
+  Sentakeyi, Cape,
+  Shaw, J. W.; leaves the expedition,
+  Shamba Gonera, or, "Gonera's Field," good disposition of the
+          Indian widow towards the whites; appearance of the place,
+          trade, &c.,
+  Sheikh Sayd bin Selim,
+  -----  Hamed,
+  -----  Hassid,
+  -----  Khamis bin Abdullah,
+  -----  bin Nasib,
+  -----  Sulton bin Ali,
+  -----  Thani,
+  Sherif, Dr. Livingstone's servant; dishonesty of,
+  Shiza,
+  Sigunga,
+  Simbamwenni; desolation of by flood,
+  ----------, Sultana of,
+  Simba, ruler of Kasera,
+  Simbo,
+  Simbo, Khambi,
+  Singwe, a plum-like fruit,
+  Slave-gang, chained,
+  Sofi beads,
+  Somalis;
+  Soor Hadji Palloo,
+  Soud, the Arab,
+  ----, son of Sayd bin Majid,
+  ----, bin Sayd, his attack on Wilyankura; his death,
+  Speke, Capt., his "Faithfuls"; treatment of "Bombay" by;
+         error of, as to altitude of Tanganika,
+  Stanley, Mr., start from Bombay; landing at Zanzibar; hospitable
+        reception by Capt. Webb; impressions of the city;
+        organization of the Expedition; visit to the Sultan; departure
+        from Zanzibar; landing at Bagamoyo; troublesome experiences;
+        visit to the "Livingstone caravan"; preparations for departure
+        into the interior, difficulties with employes; chase after a
+        thief, despatch of four caravans; departure of the fifth caravan,
+        led by himself; members composing it and outfit; the start,
+        first camp; Shamba Gonera; crossing the Kingani; hippopotami
+        shooting; Kikoka village; halt at Rosako; "Omar" watchdog,
+        missing; formidable number of insects, the tsetse-fly; game
+        hunting; difficulty of penetrating an African jungle; camp at
+        Kingaru; the grey Arab horse, and offence given by its interment;
+        interview with the king of Kingaru; loss of the re maiming horse
+        from cancer; desertion and sickness; appearance of Maganga's
+        caravan march to Imbiki; reach Msuwa, perils of the jungle,
+        astonishment of the chief; chained slave-gang; halt at
+        Kisemo; belle of; narrow escape of Khamisi; flogged for
+        desertion; reach Mussoudi; beautiful prospect; cross the
+        Ungerengeri start for Mikeseh; Ulagalla and Muhalleh;
+        overtake Maganga's caravan; meet with Selim bin Rashid,
+        news of Livingstone; pass town of Simbamwenni; its
+        fortifications; curiosity of the inhabitants; two
+        days' halt and overhaul of the luggage, attack of ague;
+        visit of ambassadors of the Sultana of Simbamwenni;
+        wretched encampment on the Ungerengeri; difficulty of
+        crossing the river; Makata Valley; loss of Bombay's
+        equipage,; difficulties of the Makata Valley; escape
+        and capture of Kingaru; emerge from the swamp Makata,
+        attack of dysentery, halt at Reheneko; ascent of the
+        Usagara Mountains; Mukondokwa Valley and River; Kiora;
+        camp at, illness of Farquhar; ford of the Mukondokwa
+        River; Madete, Lake of Ugombe; departure from Ugombo;
+        camp at Matamombo, death of of the dog "Omar"; Sheikh
+        Thani in clover at Mpwapwa, a good breakfast and
+        dinner, Farquhar left to be nursed; twelve pagazis
+        engaged, abundance of earwigs and white ants; Chunyo,
+        badness of the water; Marenga Mkali waterless district;
+        attack of fever; Ugogo; frantic conduct of the population;
+        West Mvumi; the Sultan's exorbitant demand of honda;
+        Matamburu, reasonableness of the Sultan of; Bihiwana;
+        attack of intermittent fever; Kididimo, bleak aspect
+        and bad water; Nyambwa, demonstrativeness of the people;
+        Mizanza; benefit from quinine; visit from the Sultan;
+        Little Mukondoku; Mukondoku Proper; commotion and
+        cowardice; uproar in the camp; debate as to route;
+        threatened mutiny; Munieka; Mabunguru Nullah;
+        Unyambogi; Kiti, Msalalo; Ngaraiso, Kirurumo,
+        greeting from the villagers; interview with Sultan
+        bin Mahommed; halt at Kusuri, and Mgongo Tembo;
+        Nghwhalah Mtoni, abundance of sweet, water;
+        Madedita, tsete-fly troublesome; reach Unyamwezi
+        territory at Eastern Tura, cultivated region;
+        Nondo, Speke's runaway; Central Tura, attempted night
+        robbery, a thief shot dead; pass  Western Tura; Kwala
+        Mtoni, mud-fish; illness of the tailor, Abdul Kader,
+        he wishes to give up his post; Rubuga, desolation of,
+        since Burton's visit; meeting with Amer bin Sultan,
+        Kigwa, wasted condition of; Shiza, pastoral aspect of,
+        visit from the Sultan; rejoicings in camp on reaching
+        Unyanyembe territory; life in Unyanyembe; breakfast and
+        gossip with Sayd bin Salim; Kazeh, a myth; leave Kwikuru;
+        in comfortable quarters; visit from the Tabora Arab magnates;
+        Tabora, chief Arab settlement in central Africa; attend a
+        council of war, feast at the close of the council; return
+        to Kwihara; the Livingstone caravan's halt of 100 days;
+        attack of fever; preparations for the march; warlike
+        demonstration; Eastern Mfuto, illness of Shaw,
+        personnel of the army; Umanda, medicine daubing;
+        war harangue; Zimbizo, attack on the village; fate
+        of Soud bin Sayd and his Arabs; retreat and stormy
+        councils of war; further retreat of the Arabs to Tabora,
+        serious position of the Expedition; intelligence
+        of Livingstone; news of death of Farquhar; illness
+        of Shaw, attack of Mirambo on Tabora; Khamis bin
+        Abdullah, &c., slain; preparations for Mirambo's threatened
+        attack on Kwihara; visit to Sheikh bin Nassib; retreat
+        of Mirambo, determination to lead a flying caravan
+        to Ujiji; apathy of Shaw, visit to Thani bin Abdullah,
+        arrival of letters; death of Baruti, evil reports by
+        the Arabs; present of a boy-slave; defeat of Mirambo at
+        Mfuto; nursing experiences: farewell feast at Unyanyembe;
+        march to Ujiji commenced by southern route; list of "braves"
+        of the Expedition; Bombay's tender passion; the start;
+        Shaw shows the white feather; Kinyamwezi village, attack
+        of fever; arrest of runaways, threat of slave-chain;
+        Inesuka, further desertions, punishment, withdrawal of
+        Abdul Kader, the tailor; sickness in camp, adverse
+        appearances; Kasegara, rejoicings at; Kigandu, Shaw's
+        by-play; his withdrawal; beauty of Unyamwezi forest
+        scenery; Ugunda; Benta; Kikuru, the mukunguru or fever;
+        camp at Ziwani; gigantic sycamore; Manyara, cultivated
+        region; difficulty of buying provisions; visit of Mtemi;
+        his astonishment at the author's medicine-chest; Gombe
+        River, its beautiful neighbourhood; narrow escape from a
+        crocodile, suspicious-looking natives; a peaceful camp-scene;
+        symptoms of revolt at starting onwards; murderous aspect of
+        Asmani and Mabruki; the march- resumed; sketch of the principal
+        men of the Expedition; Ziwani (pool), waterless condition of;
+        Tongoni, abundance of honey-birds; Marefu, rumours of war in
+        our front; march through a forest abounding with peach-trees;
+        Utende village; Mwaru, supposed report of Livingstone, Mrera's
+        district, wild elephants; Selim falls ill, start from Mrera
+        north-westward; confidence restored in the camp, remarkable
+        ant-hills; camp in the jungle; embassy from Simba; Uzavira,
+        ruined neighbourhood of; Misonghi; Mpokwa River, deserted
+        village near; Mtambu stream, its beauty; attack by a leopard;
+        shot at a wild boar; proximity of lions; Itaga village,
+        beginning of troubles, shortness of provisions, "Welled
+        Nzogera's" village, abundant supplies; crossing a marsh;
+        reach the Malagarazi; heavy exaction of the chief Kiala;
+        island of Ihata, fresh demands for ferriage; donkey seized
+        by crocodile; Uvinza, news of Livingstone, departure from
+        the Malagarazi; country of Uhha; halt at Kawanga; halt on
+        the Pombwe stream, interview with Mionvu; exorbitant demand
+        of honga; cross the Kanengi River; more claims of honga;
+        departure by stealth; Kanengi River; cross the Rusugi;
+        Lake Musunya, Rugufu River, Kabogo Mountain, singular
+        phenomenon of; Sunuzzi River; enter Ukaranga; beauty
+        of the landscape; Mkute River, Niamtaga, alarm of the
+        people; first view of the Tanganika,  Port of Ujiji in
+        view; salute announcing the approach of the caravan; meeting
+        with Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone; excitement of
+        the inhabitants; appearance of the Doctor; the introduction;
+        conversation; the over-due letter-bag, 365 days from Zanzibar;
+        budget of news; intercourse with Livingstone; suggestions
+        as to his future course; start with Livingstone for cruise
+        on the Tanganika; pass Bangwe Island; wooded hills of Bemba;
+        camp at Niasanga; Nyabigma Island; Mukungu; loss of valuables
+        from Bombay's intoxication; hostile demonstrations of the Bikari
+        people; bivouac on the shore disturbed by natives; round
+        Cape Sentakeyi, and sleep at Mugeyo; Magala, hospitality of
+        the people, visit of the Mutware of; rumours of wars;
+        Kisiku, native report as to the Rusizi River; Mugere, delta
+        of the; visit Mukamba, attacked by fever and experience
+        Livingstone's tenderness; Susi's drunken fit; Mugihewa
+        territory on the delta of the Rusizi; visit of the chief
+        Ruhinga, his geographical information; exploration
+        of the Rusizi debouchure: Kukubma Point, enchanting scenery
+        near; halt at Bemba, superstition of the Wajiji; 'New York
+        Herald Islets,' so named by Livingstone; Cape Luvumba
+        hostile aspect of the Wasansi, return to Ujiji, domestic
+        and foreign news; at home with Livingstone; preparations
+        for march to Unyanyembe; attack of fever; Christmas-day
+        at Ujiji; the departure; meet with Mohammed bin Gharib;
+        Sirgunga, beautiful aspect of; sport at Urimba; homeward bound;
+        an elephant herd; Ukawendi, luxuriance of its vegetation;
+        painful march to Imrera; a giraffe shot; severe attack of
+        fever, the Doctor's prescription; the caravan attacked by
+        bees; Mrera, meeting with caravan sent by Sayd bin Habid,
+        exchange of news, encounter a lion; Ugunda, the deserter
+        Hamdallah retaken; receipt of letters and newspapers;
+        welcome to Unyanyembe; stores found tampered with;
+        a second Christmas celebration, four years' stores of
+       supplies turned over to the Doctor, commission to enlist
+       at Zanzibar fifty freemen as his carriers; farewell dance
+       of natives; choragic adieu of the Wanyamwezi; last night
+       with Livingstone; the last walk in his company, the farewell;
+       a letter from the Doctor; Ngaraiso, hostility of the Wakimbu,
+       enter Ugogo; warlike demonstrations, march of warriors
+       arrayed for the fight;  Khonze, its gigantic tree-foliage;
+       determined mode of dealing with the chief successfull;
+       Kanyenyi, cordial reception by the Msagira of; Mapanga,
+       hostile demonstration; asked to act as rain-maker; Kulabi,
+       suffer from a "peppo"; Marenga Mkali; Mpwapwa, death of
+       Farquhar; Mukondokwa valley, experience of the Masika;
+       Makata plain, battling with the floods; Mvumi village,
+       fighting with mosquitoes; the Doctor's despatches in danger;
+       a perilous ford; ten days' camp at Rehenneko, difficulties
+       of the march to the Makata River; arrive at Simbo, cross the
+       Unkerengere, and reach Simbamwenni, its desolated aspect;
+       Ulagalla, extraordinary devastation by flood; Msuwa, horrors
+       of its jungle; Kingaru Hera, news of the Zanzibar storm;
+       Rosako, welcome consignment from the American Consul;
+       ill-natured criticisms, information as to the "Livingstone
+       Search and Relief Expedition"; Ringweare's ferry, a watery waste,
+       four miles broad; welcome to Bagamoyo; meeting with Lieut. Henn;
+       introduction to Mr. Oswell Livingstone; the march ended;
+       welcome at Zanzibar, the American Consul and Rev. C. New;
+       congratulation of Lieut. Dawson; discussion as to his resignation;
+       visit from Dr. Kirk and Bishop Tozer, change in the  author's
+       appearance on his return; preparations for Mr. O. Livingstone's
+       Expedition, his resignation, selection of an Arab leader,
+       farewell to old travelling companions; departure from
+       Zanzibar in the 'Africa'; reach Seychelles, a month's delay
+       at Mahe, agreeable intercourse; reach England via Aden and
+       Marseilles.
+  Sultan bin Mohammed,
+  Sultan of Zanzibar, Mr. Stanley's interview with,
+  Sunuzzi stream,
+  Susi, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+  Swaruru, Sultan,
+  Sycamore, gigantic,
+
+  Tabora,
+  Tagamoyo, massacre of the Wamanyuema by,
+  Tanganika Lake, first visit to; cruise on, with Dr. Livingstone,
+  Tarya Topan, integrity of
+  Thani bin Abdullah,,
+  Tongoni, deserted clearing,
+  Tozer, Bp., his residence at Zanzibar; his congratulations at
+             the author's success,
+  Trade, mode of conducting, in Africa,
+  Tsetse fly,
+  Tura, Eastern; Central,;
+            Western or Tura Perro;
+
+  Udoe, cones of,
+  "Uganga," or charm,
+  Ugombo, Lake; Peak, Plain,
+  Ugunda village,
+  Uhha, king of,
+  Ujiji, port of,
+  Ukaranga territory, its beautiful aspect,
+  Ukawendi country, scenery of,
+  Ulagalla district,
+  Ulimengo, absconding slave,
+  Unamapokera, friendliness of,
+  Ungerengeri River; Valley,
+  Urundi Mountains,
+  Unyamwezi forest scenery, beauty of; territory,
+  Unyambogi,
+  Urimba, camp at,
+  Usagara Mountains,
+  Utende village,
+  Uwelasia River,
+  Uyanzi, Magunda Mkali; or "Hot Field,"
+  Uyoweh, Mirambo of,
+  Uzavira, village in,
+
+  Waganga, or medicine men; filthy war-potion, concocted by,
+  Wagogo tribe, villages of,
+  Wagtails regarded as birds of good omen,
+  Waguhha tribe,
+  Wagunda tribe,
+  Wahumba tribe,
+  Wajiji tribe,
+  Wakimbu of Tura, rascality of,
+  ------- tribe; villages of,
+  Wakonongo,
+  Wamanyuema, fondness of, for marketing,
+  Wangwana village,
+  ------- tribe, gormandizing of the,
+  Wanyamwezi tribe, their superstitious aversion to antelope meat,
+  War, council of, at Tabora,
+  Warfare, tame mode of conducting,
+  Wa-Ruga-Ruga,
+  Wasawahili tribe,
+  Wasansi tribe,
+  Waseguhha tribe,
+  Washenshi tribe,
+  Wasungu tribe,
+  Wavinza tribe, greed of
+  Wavira tribe,
+  Webb, Capt. F. R., U.S. Consul, his hospitality and courtesy,
+  ----, Mr. of Newstead Abbey, river named after him,
+  ----, Mrs.,
+  Wagogo, cool impudence of the,
+  Wilderness, African, more favourable to the traveller than
+        the populated country,
+  Wild-boar shooting,
+  Wilyankuru, attack on,
+  Wire, high valve of, in the interior,
+
+  Zanzibar city view of, from the bay, harbor
+           "Charley's" lodging house,; character of the street
+           and population, trade, "M'nazi Moya"; house of Bishop
+           Tozer, mart of the interior, mode of commerce unchanged
+           for ages; population; filth and unhealthiness of;
+           inertness induced by climate of; Palace of the Sultan,
+  ----- Island; its aspect from the sea,
+  Zassi River and village,
+  Zebra,
+  Zimbizo, attack on the village,
+  Zimmerman on the benefit of an unencumbered mind,
+  Ziwo, or pond,
+  Ziwani (pool),
+  Zogga, palm toddy,
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's How I Found Livingstone, by Henry M. Stanley
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+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en">
+  <head>
+    <title>
+      How I Found Livingstone, by Sir Henry M. Stanley, G.c.b.
+    </title>
+    <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve">
+    
+    body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify}
+    P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; }
+    H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; }
+    hr  { width: 50%; text-align: center;}
+    .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; }
+    blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;}
+    .mynote    {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;}
+    .toc       { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;}
+    .toc2      { margin-left: 20%;}
+    div.fig    { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; }
+    div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; }
+    .figleft   {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;}
+    .figright  {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;}
+    .pagenum   {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal;
+               margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%;
+               text-align: right;}
+    pre        { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;}
+    
+</style>
+  </head>
+  <body>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of How I Found Livingstone, by Henry M. Stanley
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: How I Found Livingstone
+
+Author: Henry M. Stanley
+
+Release Date: February, 2004 [EBook #5157]
+Last Updated: February 6, 2013
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Geoffrey Cowling and David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+    <div style="height: 8em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h1>
+      HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE
+    </h1>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <h3>
+      Travels, Adventures and Discoveries in Central Africa including four
+      months residence with Dr. Livingstone
+    </h3>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      By Sir Henry M. Stanley, G.C.B.
+    </h2>
+    <h4>
+      Abridged
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0001"> CHAPTER I.&mdash; INTRODUCTORY. MY INSTRUCTIONS
+      TO FIND AND RELIEVE LIVINGSTONE. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0002"> CHAPTER II. &mdash; ZANZIBAR. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0003"> CHAPTER III. &mdash; ORGANIZATION OF THE
+      EXPEDITION. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0004"> CHAPTER IV. &mdash; LIFE AT BAGAMOYO. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0005"> CHAPTER V. &mdash; THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND
+      UDOE TO USEGUHHA. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0006"> CHAPTER VI. &mdash; TO UGOGO. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0007"> CHAPTER VII. &mdash; MARENGA MKALI, UGOGO, AND
+      UYANZI, TO UNYANYEMBE. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0008"> CHAPTER VIII. &mdash; MY LIFE AND TROUBLES DURING
+      MY RESIDENCE IN UNYAS NYEMBE. I BECOME ENGAGED IN A WAR. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0009"> CHAPTER IX. &mdash; MY LIFE AND TROUBLES IN
+      UNYANYEMBE-(continued). </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0010"> CHAPTER X. &mdash; TO MRERA, UKONONGO. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0011"> CHAPTER XI. &mdash; THROUGH UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND
+      UHHA, TO UJIJI. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0012"> CHAPTER XII. &mdash; INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE
+      AT UJIJI </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0013"> CHAPTER XIII. &mdash; OUR CRUISE ON THE LAKE
+      TANGANIKA </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0014"> CHAPTER XIV. &mdash; OUR JOURNEY FROM UJIJI TO
+      UNYANYEMBE. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0015"> CHAPTER XV. &mdash; HOMEWARD BOUND.&mdash;LIVINGSTONE'S
+      LAST WORDS&mdash;THE FINAL FAREWELL </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2HCH0016"> CHAPTER XVI. &mdash; VALEDICTORY. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br /> <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER I.&mdash; INTRODUCTORY. MY INSTRUCTIONS TO FIND AND RELIEVE
+      LIVINGSTONE.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      On the sixteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord one thousand
+      eight hundred and sixty-nine, I was in Madrid, fresh from the carnage at
+      Valencia. At 10 A.M. Jacopo, at No.&mdash; Calle de la Cruz, handed me a
+      telegram: It read, "Come to Paris on important business." The telegram was
+      from Mr. James Gordon Bennett, jun., the young manager of the 'New York
+      Herald.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Down came my pictures from the walls of my apartments on the second floor;
+      into my trunks went my books and souvenirs, my clothes were hastily
+      collected, some half washed, some from the clothes-line half dry, and
+      after a couple of hours of hasty hard work my portmanteaus were strapped
+      up and labelled "Paris."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At 3 P.M. I was on my way, and being obliged to stop at Bayonne a few
+      hours, did not arrive at Paris until the following night. I went straight
+      to the 'Grand Hotel,' and knocked at the door of Mr. Bennett's room.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Come in," I heard a voice say. Entering, I found Mr. Bennett in bed. "Who
+      are you?" he asked.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "My name is Stanley," I answered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Ah, yes! sit down; I have important business on hand for you."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After throwing over his shoulders his robe-de-chambre Mr. Bennett asked,
+      "Where do you think Livingstone is?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I really do not know, sir."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Do you think he is alive?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "He may be, and he may not be," I answered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, I think he is alive, and that he can be found, and I am going to
+      send you to find him."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "What!" said I, "do you really think I can find Dr Livingstone? Do you
+      mean me to go to Central Africa?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes; I mean that you shall go, and find him wherever you may hear that he
+      is, and to get what news you can of him, and perhaps"&mdash;delivering
+      himself thoughtfully and deliberately&mdash;"the old man may be in want:&mdash;take
+      enough with you to help him should he require it. Of course you will act
+      according to your own plans, and do what you think best&mdash;BUT FIND
+      LIVINGSTONE!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Said I, wondering at the cool order of sending one to Central Africa to
+      search for a man whom I, in common with almost all other men, believed to
+      be dead, "Have you considered seriously the great expense you are likely,
+      to incur on account of this little journey?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "What will it cost?" he asked abruptly.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Burton and Speke's journey to Central Africa cost between £3,000 and
+      £5,000, and I fear it cannot be done under £2,500."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, I will tell you what you will do. Draw a thousand pounds now; and
+      when you have gone through that, draw another thousand, and when that is
+      spent, draw another thousand, and when you have finished that, draw
+      another thousand, and so on; but, FIND LIVINGSTONE."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Surprised but not confused at the order&mdash;for I knew that Mr. Bennett
+      when once he had made up his mind was not easily drawn aside from his
+      purpose&mdash;I yet thought, seeing it was such a gigantic scheme, that he
+      had not quite considered in his own mind the pros and cons of the case; I
+      said, "I have heard that should your father die you would sell the
+      'Herald' and retire from business."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Whoever told you that is wrong, for there is not, money enough in New
+      York city to buy the 'New York Herald.' My father has made it a great
+      paper, but I mean to make it greater. I mean that it shall be a newspaper
+      in the true sense of the word. I mean that it shall publish whatever news
+      will be interesting to the world at no matter what cost."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "After that," said I, "I have nothing more to say. Do you mean me to go
+      straight on to Africa to search for Dr. Livingstone?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "No! I wish you to go to the inauguration of the Suez Canal first, and
+      then proceed up the Nile. I hear Baker is about starting for Upper Egypt.
+      Find out what you can about his expedition, and as you go up describe as
+      well as possible whatever is interesting for tourists; and then write up a
+      guide&mdash;a practical one&mdash;for Lower Egypt; tell us about whatever
+      is worth seeing and how to see it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Then you might as well go to Jerusalem; I hear Captain Warren is making
+      some interesting discoveries there. Then visit Constantinople, and find
+      out about that trouble between the Khedive and the Sultan.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Then&mdash;let me see&mdash;you might as well visit the Crimea and those
+      old battle-grounds, Then go across the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea; I hear
+      there is a Russian expedition bound for Khiva. From thence you may get
+      through Persia to India; you could write an interesting letter from
+      Persepolis.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Bagdad will be close on your way to India; suppose you go there, and
+      write up something about the Euphrates Valley Railway. Then, when you have
+      come to India, you can go after Livingstone. Probably you will hear by
+      that time that Livingstone is on his way to Zanzibar; but if not, go into
+      the interior and find him. If alive, get what news of his discoveries you
+      can; and if you find he is dead, bring all possible proofs of his being
+      dead. That is all. Good-night, and God be with you."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Good-night, Sir," I said, "what it is in the power of human nature to do
+      I will do; and on such an errand as I go upon, God will be with me."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I lodged with young Edward King, who is making such a name in New England.
+      He was just the man who would have delighted to tell the journal he was
+      engaged upon what young Mr. Bennett was doing, and what errand I was bound
+      upon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I should have liked to exchange opinions with him upon the probable
+      results of my journey, but I dared not do so. Though oppressed with the
+      great task before me, I had to appear as if only going to be present at
+      the Suez Canal. Young King followed me to the express train bound for
+      Marseilles, and at the station we parted: he to go and read the newspapers
+      at Bowles' Reading-room&mdash;I to Central Africa and&mdash;who knows?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There is no need to recapitulate what I did before going to Central
+      Africa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I went up the Nile and saw Mr. Higginbotham, chief engineer in Baker's
+      Expedition, at Philae, and was the means of preventing a duel between him
+      and a mad young Frenchman, who wanted to fight Mr. Higginbotham with
+      pistols, because that gentleman resented the idea of being taken for an
+      Egyptian, through wearing a fez cap. I had a talk with Capt. Warren at
+      Jerusalem, and descended one of the pits with a sergeant of engineers to
+      see the marks of the Tyrian workmen on the foundation-stones of the Temple
+      of Solomon. I visited the mosques of Stamboul with the Minister Resident
+      of the United States, and the American Consul-General. I travelled over
+      the Crimean battle-grounds with Kinglake's glorious books for reference in
+      my hand. I dined with the widow of General Liprandi at Odessa. I saw the
+      Arabian traveller Palgrave at Trebizond, and Baron Nicolay, the Civil
+      Governor of the Caucasus, at Tiflis. I lived with the Russian Ambassador
+      while at Teheran, and wherever I went through Persia I received the most
+      hospitable welcome from the gentlemen of the Indo-European Telegraph
+      Company; and following the examples of many illustrious men, I wrote my
+      name upon one of the Persepolitan monuments. In the month of August, 1870,
+      I arrived in India.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 12th of October I sailed on the barque 'Polly' from Bombay to
+      Mauritius. As the 'Polly' was a slow sailer, the passage lasted
+      thirty-seven days. On board this barque was a William Lawrence Farquhar&mdash;hailing
+      from Leith, Scotland&mdash;in the capacity of first-mate. He was an
+      excellent navigator, and thinking he might be useful to me, I employed
+      him; his pay to begin from the date we should leave Zanzibar for Bagamoyo.
+      As there was no opportunity of getting, to Zanzibar direct, I took ship to
+      Seychelles. Three or four days after arriving at Mahe, one of the
+      Seychelles group, I was fortunate enough to get a passage for myself,
+      William Lawrence Farquhar, and an Arab boy from Jerusalem, who was to act
+      as interpreter&mdash;on board an American whaling vessel, bound for
+      Zanzibar; at which port we arrived on the 6th of January, 1871.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have skimmed over my travels thus far, because these do not concern the
+      reader. They led over many lands, but this book is only a narrative of my
+      search after Livingstone, the great African traveller. It is an Icarian
+      flight of journalism, I confess; some even have called it Quixotic; but
+      this is a word I can now refute, as will be seen before the reader arrives
+      at the "Finis."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have used the word "soldiers" in this book. The armed escort a traveller
+      engages to accompany him into East Africa is composed of free black men,
+      natives of Zanzibar, or freed slaves from the interior, who call
+      themselves "askari," an Indian name which, translated, means "soldiers."
+      They are armed and equipped like soldiers, though they engage themselves
+      also as servants; but it would be more pretentious in me to call them
+      servants, than to use the word "soldiers;" and as I have been more in the
+      habit of calling them soldiers than "my watuma"&mdash;servants&mdash;this
+      habit has proved too much to be overcome. I have therefore allowed the
+      word "soldiers" to appear, accompanied, however, with this apology.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But it must be remembered that I am writing a narrative of my own
+      adventures and travels, and that until I meet Livingstone, I presume the
+      greatest interest is attached to myself, my marches, my troubles, my
+      thoughts, and my impressions. Yet though I may sometimes write, "my
+      expedition," or "my caravan," it by no means follows that I arrogate to
+      myself this right. For it must be distinctly understood that it is the
+      "'New York Herald' Expedition," and that I am only charged with its
+      command by Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the 'New York
+      Herald,' as a salaried employ of that gentleman.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One thing more; I have adopted the narrative form of relating the story of
+      the search, on account of the greater interest it appears to possess over
+      the diary form, and I think that in this manner I avoid the great fault of
+      repetition for which some travellers have been severely criticised.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER II. &mdash; ZANZIBAR.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      On the morning of the 6th January, 1871, we were sailing through the
+      channel that separates the fruitful island of Zanzibar from Africa. The
+      high lands of the continent loomed like a lengthening shadow in the grey
+      of dawn. The island lay on our left, distant but a mile, coming out of its
+      shroud of foggy folds bit by bit as the day advanced, until it finally
+      rose clearly into view, as fair in appearance as the fairest of the gems
+      of creation. It appeared low, but not flat; there were gentle elevations
+      cropping hither and yon above the languid but graceful tops of the
+      cocoa-trees that lined the margin of the island, and there were
+      depressions visible at agreeable intervals, to indicate where a cool gloom
+      might be found by those who sought relief from a hot sun. With the
+      exception of the thin line of sand, over which the sap-green water rolled
+      itself with a constant murmur and moan, the island seemed buried under one
+      deep stratum of verdure.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The noble bosom of the strait bore several dhows speeding in and out of
+      the bay of Zanzibar with bellying sails. Towards the south, above the sea
+      line of the horizon, there appeared the naked masts of several large
+      ships, and to the east of these a dense mass of white, flat-topped houses.
+      This was Zanzibar, the capital of the island;&mdash;which soon resolved
+      itself into a pretty large and compact city, with all the characteristics
+      of Arab architecture. Above some of the largest houses lining the bay
+      front of the city streamed the blood-red banner of the Sultan, Seyd
+      Burghash, and the flags of the American, English, North German
+      Confederation, and French Consulates. In the harbor were thirteen large
+      ships, four Zanzibar men-of-war, one English man-of-war&mdash;the
+      'Nymphe,' two American, one French, one Portuguese, two English, and two
+      German merchantmen, besides numerous dhows hailing from Johanna and
+      Mayotte of the Comoro Islands, dhows from Muscat and Cutch&mdash;traders
+      between India, the Persian Gulf, and Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was with the spirit of true hospitality and courtesy that Capt. Francis
+      R. Webb, United States Consul, (formerly of the United States Navy),
+      received me. Had this gentleman not rendered me such needful service, I
+      must have condescended to take board and lodging at a house known as
+      "Charley's," called after the proprietor, a Frenchman, who has won
+      considerable local notoriety for harboring penniless itinerants, and
+      manifesting a kindly spirit always, though hidden under such a rugged
+      front; or I should have been obliged to pitch my double-clothed American
+      drill tent on the sandbeach of this tropical island, which was by no means
+      a desirable thing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But Capt. Webb's opportune proposal to make his commodious and comfortable
+      house my own; to enjoy myself, with the request that I would call for
+      whatever I might require, obviated all unpleasant alternatives.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One day's life at Zanzibar made me thoroughly conscious of my ignorance
+      respecting African people and things in general. I imagined I had read
+      Burton and Speke through, fairly well, and that consequently I had
+      penetrated the meaning, the full importance and grandeur, of the work I
+      was about to be engaged upon. But my estimates, for instance, based upon
+      book information, were simply ridiculous, fanciful images of African
+      attractions were soon dissipated, anticipated pleasures vanished, and all
+      crude ideas began to resolve themselves into shape.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I strolled through the city. My general impressions are of crooked, narrow
+      lanes, white-washed houses, mortar-plastered streets, in the clean
+      quarter;&mdash;of seeing alcoves on each side, with deep recesses, with a
+      fore-ground of red-turbaned Banyans, and a back-ground of flimsy cottons,
+      prints, calicoes, domestics and what not; or of floors crowded with ivory
+      tusks; or of dark corners with a pile of unginned and loose cotton; or of
+      stores of crockery, nails, cheap Brummagem ware, tools, &amp;c., in what I
+      call the Banyan quarter;&mdash;of streets smelling very strong&mdash;in
+      fact, exceedingly, malodorous, with steaming yellow and black bodies, and
+      woolly heads, sitting at the doors of miserable huts, chatting, laughing,
+      bargaining, scolding, with a compound smell of hides, tar, filth, and
+      vegetable refuse, in the negro quarter;&mdash;of streets lined with tall,
+      solid-looking houses, flat roofed, of great carved doors with large brass
+      knockers, with baabs sitting cross-legged watching the dark entrance to
+      their masters' houses; of a shallow sea-inlet, with some dhows, canoes,
+      boats, an odd steam-tub or two, leaning over on their sides in a sea of
+      mud which the tide has just left behind it; of a place called
+      "M'nazi-Moya," "One Cocoa-tree," whither Europeans wend on evenings with
+      most languid steps, to inhale the sweet air that glides over the sea,
+      while the day is dying and the red sun is sinking westward; of a few
+      graves of dead sailors, who paid the forfeit of their lives upon arrival
+      in this land; of a tall house wherein lives Dr. Tozer, "Missionary Bishop
+      of Central Africa," and his school of little Africans; and of many other
+      things, which got together into such a tangle, that I had to go to sleep,
+      lest I should never be able to separate the moving images, the Arab from
+      the African; the African from the Banyan; the Banyan from the Hindi; the
+      Hindi from the European, &amp;c.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Zanzibar is the Bagdad, the Ispahan, the Stamboul, if you like, of East
+      Africa. It is the great mart which invites the ivory traders from the
+      African interior. To this market come the gum-copal, the hides, the
+      orchilla weed, the timber, and the black slaves from Africa. Bagdad had
+      great silk bazaars, Zanzibar has her ivory bazaars; Bagdad once traded in
+      jewels, Zanzibar trades in gum-copal; Stamboul imported Circassian and
+      Georgian slaves; Zanzibar imports black beauties from Uhiyow, Ugindo,
+      Ugogo, Unyamwezi and Galla.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The same mode of commerce obtains here as in all Mohammedan countries&mdash;nay,
+      the mode was in vogue long before Moses was born. The Arab never changes.
+      He brought the custom of his forefathers with him when he came to live on
+      this island. He is as much of an Arab here as at Muscat or Bagdad;
+      wherever he goes to live he carries with him his harem, his religion, his
+      long robe, his shirt, his slippers, and his dagger. If he penetrates
+      Africa, not all the ridicule of the negroes can make him change his modes
+      of life. Yet the land has not become Oriental; the Arab has not been able
+      to change the atmosphere. The land is semi-African in aspect; the city is
+      but semi-Arabian.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To a new-comer into Africa, the Muscat Arabs of Zanzibar are studies.
+      There is a certain empressement about them which we must admire. They are
+      mostly all travellers. There are but few of them who have not been in many
+      dangerous positions, as they penetrated Central Africa in search of the
+      precious ivory; and their various experiences have given their features a
+      certain unmistakable air of-self-reliance, or of self-sufficiency; there
+      is a calm, resolute, defiant, independent air about them, which wins
+      unconsciously one's respect. The stories that some of these men could
+      tell, I have often thought, would fill many a book of thrilling
+      adventures.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For the half-castes I have great contempt. They are neither black nor
+      white, neither good nor bad, neither to be admired nor hated. They are all
+      things, at all times; they are always fawning on the great Arabs, and
+      always cruel to those unfortunates brought under their yoke. If I saw a
+      miserable, half-starved negro, I was always sure to be told he belonged to
+      a half-caste. Cringing and hypocritical, cowardly and debased, treacherous
+      and mean, I have always found him. He seems to be for ever ready to fall
+      down and worship a rich Arab, but is relentless to a poor black slave.
+      When he swears most, you may be sure he lies most, and yet this is the
+      breed which is multiplied most at Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Banyan is a born trader, the beau-ideal of a sharp money-making man.
+      Money flows to his pockets as naturally as water down a steep. No pang of
+      conscience will prevent him from cheating his fellow man. He excels a Jew,
+      and his only rival in a market is a Parsee; an Arab is a babe to him. It
+      is worth money to see him labor with all his energy, soul and body, to get
+      advantage by the smallest fraction of a coin over a native. Possibly the
+      native has a tusk, and it may weigh a couple of frasilahs, but, though the
+      scales indicate the weight, and the native declares solemnly that it must
+      be more than two frasilahs, yet our Banyan will asseverate and vow that
+      the native knows nothing whatever about it, and that the scales are wrong;
+      he musters up courage to lift it&mdash;it is a mere song, not much more
+      than a frasilah. "Come," he will say, "close, man, take the money and go
+      thy way. Art thou mad?" If the native hesitates, he will scream in a fury;
+      he pushes him about, spurns the ivory with contemptuous indifference,&mdash;never
+      was such ado about nothing; but though he tells the astounded native to be
+      up and going, he never intends the ivory shall leave his shop.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Banyans exercise, of all other classes, most influence on the trade of
+      Central Africa. With the exception of a very few rich Arabs, almost all
+      other traders are subject to the pains and penalties which usury imposes.
+      A trader desirous to make a journey into the interior, whether for slaves
+      or ivory, gum-copal, or orchilla weed, proposes to a Banyan to advance him
+      $5,000, at 50, 60, or 70 per cent. interest. The Banyan is safe enough not
+      to lose, whether the speculation the trader is engaged upon pays or not.
+      An experienced trader seldom loses, or if he has been unfortunate, through
+      no deed of his own, he does not lose credit; with the help of the Banyan,
+      he is easily set on his feet again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We will suppose, for the sake of illustrating how trade with the interior
+      is managed, that the Arab conveys by his caravan $5,000's worth of goods
+      into the interior. At Unyanyembe the goods are worth $10,000; at Ujiji,
+      they are worth $15,000: they have trebled in price. Five doti, or $7.50,
+      will purchase a slave in the markets of Ujiji that will fetch in Zanzibar
+      $30. Ordinary menslaves may be purchased for $6 which would sell for $25
+      on the coast. We will say he purchases slaves to the full extent of his
+      means&mdash;after deducting $1,500 expenses of carriage to Ujiji and back&mdash;viz.
+      $3,500, the slaves&mdash;464 in number, at $7-50 per head&mdash;would
+      realize $13,920 at Zanzibar! Again, let us illustrate trade in ivory. A
+      merchant takes $5,000 to Ujiji, and after deducting $1,500 for expenses to
+      Ujiji, and back to Zanzibar, has still remaining $3,500 in cloth and
+      beads, with which he purchases ivory. At Ujiji ivory is bought at $20 the
+      frasilah, or 35 lbs., by which he is enabled with $3,500 to collect 175
+      frasilahs, which, if good ivory, is worth about $60 per frasilah at
+      Zanzibar. The merchant thus finds that he has realized $10,500 net profit!
+      Arab traders have often done better than this, but they almost always have
+      come back with an enormous margin of profit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next people to the Banyans in power in Zanzibar are the Mohammedan
+      Hindis. Really it has been a debateable subject in my mind whether the
+      Hindis are not as wickedly determined to cheat in trade as the Banyans.
+      But, if I have conceded the palm to the latter, it has been done very
+      reluctantly. This tribe of Indians can produce scores of unconscionable
+      rascals where they can show but one honest merchant. One of the honestest
+      among men, white or black, red or yellow, is a Mohammedan Hindi called
+      Tarya Topan. Among the Europeans at Zanzibar, he has become a proverb for
+      honesty, and strict business integrity. He is enormously wealthy, owns
+      several ships and dhows, and is a prominent man in the councils of Seyd
+      Burghash. Tarya has many children, two or three of whom are grown-up sons,
+      whom he has reared up even as he is himself. But Tarya is but a
+      representative of an exceedingly small minority.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Arabs, the Banyans, and the Mohammedan Hindis, represent the higher
+      and the middle classes. These classes own the estates, the ships, and the
+      trade. To these classes bow the half-caste and the negro.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next most important people who go to make up the mixed population of
+      this island are the negroes. They consist of the aborigines, Wasawahili,
+      Somalis, Comorines, Wanyamwezi, and a host of tribal representatives of
+      Inner Africa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To a white stranger about penetrating Africa, it is a most interesting
+      walk through the negro quarters of the Wanyamwezi and the Wasawahili. For
+      here he begins to learn the necessity of admitting that negroes are men,
+      like himself, though of a different colour; that they have passions and
+      prejudices, likes and dislikes, sympathies and antipathies, tastes and
+      feelings, in common with all human nature. The sooner he perceives this
+      fact, and adapts himself accordingly, the easier will be his journey among
+      the several races of the interior. The more plastic his nature, the more
+      prosperous will be his travels.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Though I had lived some time among the negroes of our Southern States, my
+      education was Northern, and I had met in the United States black men whom
+      I was proud to call friends. I was thus prepared to admit any black man,
+      possessing the attributes of true manhood or any good qualities, to my
+      friendship, even to a brotherhood with myself; and to respect him for
+      such, as much as if he were of my own colour and race. Neither his colour,
+      nor any peculiarities of physiognomy should debar him with me from any
+      rights he could fairly claim as a man. "Have these men&mdash;these black
+      savages from pagan Africa," I asked myself, "the qualities which make man
+      loveable among his fellows? Can these men&mdash;these barbarians&mdash;appreciate
+      kindness or feel resentment like myself?" was my mental question as I
+      travelled through their quarters and observed their actions. Need I say,
+      that I was much comforted in observing that they were as ready to be
+      influenced by passions, by loves and hates, as I was myself; that the
+      keenest observation failed to detect any great difference between their
+      nature and my own?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The negroes of the island probably number two-thirds of the entire
+      population. They compose the working-class, whether enslaved or free.
+      Those enslaved perform the work required on the plantations, the estates,
+      and gardens of the landed proprietors, or perform the work of carriers,
+      whether in the country or in the city. Outside the city they may be seen
+      carrying huge loads on their heads, as happy as possible, not because they
+      are kindly treated or that their work is light, but because it is their
+      nature to be gay and light-hearted, because they, have conceived neither
+      joys nor hopes which may not be gratified at will, nor cherished any
+      ambition beyond their reach, and therefore have not been baffled in their
+      hopes nor known disappointment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Within the city, negro carriers may be heard at all hours, in couples,
+      engaged in the transportation of clove-bags, boxes of merchandise, &amp;c.,
+      from store to "godown" and from "go-down" to the beach, singing a kind of
+      monotone chant for the encouragement of each other, and for the guiding of
+      their pace as they shuffle through the streets with bare feet. You may
+      recognise these men readily, before long, as old acquaintances, by the
+      consistency with which they sing the tunes they have adopted. Several
+      times during a day have I heard the same couple pass beneath the windows
+      of the Consulate, delivering themselves of the same invariable tune and
+      words. Some might possibly deem the songs foolish and silly, but they had
+      a certain attraction for me, and I considered that they were as useful as
+      anything else for the purposes they were intended.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The town of Zanzibar, situate on the south-western shore of the island,
+      contains a population of nearly one hundred thousand inhabitants; that of
+      the island altogether I would estimate at not more than two hundred
+      thousand inhabitants, including all races.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The greatest number of foreign vessels trading with this port are
+      American, principally from New York and Salem. After the American come the
+      German, then come the French and English. They arrive loaded with American
+      sheeting, brandy, gunpowder, muskets, beads, English cottons, brass-wire,
+      china-ware, and other notions, and depart with ivory, gum-copal, cloves,
+      hides, cowries, sesamum, pepper, and cocoa-nut oil.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The value of the exports from this port is estimated at $3,000,000, and
+      the imports from all countries at $3,500,000.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Europeans and Americans residing in the town of Zanzibar are either
+      Government officials, independent merchants, or agents for a few great
+      mercantile houses in Europe and America.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The climate of Zanzibar is not the most agreeable in the world. I have
+      heard Americans and Europeans condemn it most heartily. I have also seen
+      nearly one-half of the white colony laid up in one day from sickness. A
+      noxious malaria is exhaled from the shallow inlet of Malagash, and the
+      undrained filth, the garbage, offal, dead mollusks, dead pariah dogs, dead
+      cats, all species of carrion, remains of men and beasts unburied, assist
+      to make Zanzibar a most unhealthy city; and considering that it it ought
+      to be most healthy, nature having pointed out to man the means, and having
+      assisted him so far, it is most wonderful that the ruling prince does not
+      obey the dictates of reason.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bay of Zanzibar is in the form of a crescent, and on the south-western
+      horn of it is built the city. On the east Zanzibar is bounded almost
+      entirely by the Malagash Lagoon, an inlet of the sea. It penetrates to at
+      least two hundred and fifty yards of the sea behind or south of Shangani
+      Point. Were these two hundred and fifty yards cut through by a ten foot
+      ditch, and the inlet deepened slightly, Zanzibar would become an island of
+      itself, and what wonders would it not effect as to health and salubrity! I
+      have never heard this suggestion made, but it struck me that the foreign
+      consuls resident at Zanzibar might suggest this work to the Sultan, and so
+      get the credit of having made it as healthy a place to live in as any near
+      the equator. But apropos of this, I remember what Capt. Webb, the American
+      Consul, told me on my first arrival, when I expressed to him my wonder at
+      the apathy and inertness of men born with the indomitable energy which
+      characterises Europeans and Americans, of men imbued with the progressive
+      and stirring instincts of the white people, who yet allow themselves to
+      dwindle into pallid phantoms of their kind, into hypochondriacal invalids,
+      into hopeless believers in the deadliness of the climate, with hardly a
+      trace of that daring and invincible spirit which rules the world.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh," said Capt. Webb, "it is all very well for you to talk about energy
+      and all that kind of thing, but I assure you that a residence of four or
+      five years on this island, among such people as are here, would make you
+      feel that it was a hopeless task to resist the influence of the example by
+      which the most energetic spirits are subdued, and to which they must
+      submit in time, sooner or later. We were all terribly energetic when we
+      first came here, and struggled bravely to make things go on as we were
+      accustomed to have them at home, but we have found that we were knocking
+      our heads against granite walls to no purpose whatever. These fellows&mdash;the
+      Arabs, the Banyans, and the Hindis&mdash;you can't make them go faster by
+      ever so much scolding and praying, and in a very short time you see the
+      folly of fighting against the unconquerable. Be patient, and don't fret,
+      that is my advice, or you won't live long here."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There were three or four intensely busy men, though, at Zanzibar, who were
+      out at all hours of the day. I know one, an American; I fancy I hear the
+      quick pit-pat of his feet on the pavement beneath the Consulate, his
+      cheery voice ringing the salutation, "Yambo!" to every one he met; and he
+      had lived at Zanzibar twelve years.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I know another, one of the sturdiest of Scotchmen, a most
+      pleasant-mannered and unaffected man, sincere in whatever he did or said,
+      who has lived at Zanzibar several years, subject to the infructuosities of
+      the business he has been engaged in, as well as to the calor and ennui of
+      the climate, who yet presents as formidable a front as ever to the
+      apathetic native of Zanzibar. No man can charge Capt. H. C. Fraser,
+      formerly of the Indian Navy, with being apathetic.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I might with ease give evidence of the industry of others, but they are
+      all my friends, and they are all good. The American, English, German, and
+      French residents have ever treated me with a courtesy and kindness I am
+      not disposed to forget. Taken as a body, it would be hard to find a more
+      generous or hospitable colony of white men in any part of the world.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER III. &mdash; ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      I was totally ignorant of the interior, and it was difficult at first to
+      know, what I needed, in order to take an Expedition into Central Africa.
+      Time was precious, also, and much of it could not be devoted to inquiry
+      and investigation. In a case like this, it would have been a godsend, I
+      thought, had either of the three gentlemen, Captains Burton, Speke, or
+      Grant, given some information on these points; had they devoted a chapter
+      upon, "How to get ready an Expedition for Central Africa." The purpose of
+      this chapter, then, is to relate how I set about it, that other travellers
+      coming after me may have the benefit of my experience.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These are some of the questions I asked myself, as I tossed on my bed at
+      night:&mdash;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How much money is required?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How many pagazis, or carriers?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How many soldiers?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How much cloth?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How many beads?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How much wire?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "What kinds of cloth are required for the different tribes?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ever so many questions to myself brought me no clearer the exact point I
+      wished to arrive at. I scribbled over scores of sheets of paper, made
+      estimates, drew out lists of material, calculated the cost of keeping one
+      hundred men for one year, at so many yards of different kinds of cloth,
+      etc. I studied Burton, Speke, and Grant in vain. A good deal of
+      geographical, ethnological, and other information appertaining to the
+      study of Inner Africa was obtainable, but information respecting the
+      organization of an expedition requisite before proceeding to Africa, was
+      not in any book. The Europeans at Zanzibar knew as little as possible
+      about this particular point. There was not one white man at Zanzibar who
+      could tell how many dotis a day a force of one hundred men required to buy
+      food for one day on the road. Neither, indeed, was it their business to
+      know. But what should I do at all, at all? This was a grand question.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I decided it were best to hunt up an Arab merchant who had been engaged in
+      the ivory trade, or who was fresh from the interior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sheikh Hashid was a man of note and of wealth in Zanzibar. He had himself
+      despatched several caravans into the interior, and was necessarily
+      acquainted with several prominent traders who came to his house to gossip
+      about their adventures and gains. He was also the proprietor of the large
+      house Capt. Webb occupied; besides, he lived across the narrow street
+      which separated his house from the Consulate. Of all men Sheikh Hashid was
+      the man to be consulted, and he was accordingly invited to visit me at the
+      Consulate.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From the grey-bearded and venerable-looking Sheikh, I elicited more
+      information about African currency, the mode of procedure, the quantity
+      and quality of stuffs I required, than I had obtained from three months'
+      study of books upon Central Africa; and from other Arab merchants to whom
+      the ancient Sheikh introduced me, I received most valuable suggestions and
+      hints, which enabled me at last to organize an Expedition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The reader must bear in mind that a traveller requires only that which is
+      sufficient for travel and exploration that a superfluity of goods or means
+      will prove as fatal to him as poverty of supplies. It is on this question
+      of quality and quantity that the traveller has first to exercise his
+      judgment and discretion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My informants gave me to understand that for one hundred men, 10 doti, or
+      40 yards of cloth per diem, would suffice for food. The proper course to
+      pursue, I found, was to purchase 2,000 doti of American sheeting, 1,000
+      doti of Kaniki, and 650 doti of the coloured cloths, such as Barsati, a
+      great favourite in Unyamwezi; Sohari, taken in Ugogo; Ismahili, Taujiri,
+      Joho, Shash, Rehani, Jamdani or Kunguru-Cutch, blue and pink. These were
+      deemed amply sufficient for the subsistence of one hundred men for twelve
+      months. Two years at this rate would require 4,000 doti = 16,000 yards of
+      American sheeting; 2,000 doti = 8,000 yards of Kaniki; 1,300 doti = 5,200
+      yards of mixed coloured cloths. This was definite and valuable information
+      to me, and excepting the lack of some suggestions as to the quality of the
+      sheeting, Kaniki, and coloured cloths, I had obtained all I desired upon
+      this point.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Second in importance to the amount of cloth required was the quantity and
+      quality of the beads necessary. Beads, I was told, took the place of cloth
+      currency among some tribes of the interior. One tribe preferred white to
+      black beads, brown to yellow, red to green, green to white, and so on.
+      Thus, in Unyamwezi, red (sami-sami) beads would readily be taken, where
+      all other kinds would be refused; black (bubu) beads, though currency in
+      Ugogo, were positively worthless with all other tribes; the egg
+      (sungomazzi) beads, though valuable in Ujiji and Uguhha, would be refused
+      in all other countries; the white (Merikani) beads though good in Ufipa,
+      and some parts of Usagara and Ugogo, would certainly be despised in
+      Useguhha and Ukonongo. Such being the case, I was obliged to study
+      closely, and calculate the probable stay of an expedition in the several
+      countries, so as to be sure to provide a sufficiency of each kind, and
+      guard against any great overplus. Burton and Speke, for instance, were
+      obliged to throw away as worthless several hundred fundo of beads.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For example, supposing the several nations of Europe had each its own
+      currency, without the means of exchange, and supposing a man was about to
+      travel through Europe on foot, before starting he would be apt to
+      calculate how many days it would take him to travel through France; how
+      many through Prussia, Austria, and Russia, then to reckon the expense he
+      would be likely to incur per day. If the expense be set down at a napoleon
+      per day, and his journey through France would occupy thirty days, the sum
+      required forgoing and returning might be properly set down at sixty
+      napoleons, in which case, napoleons not being current money in Prussia,
+      Austria, or Russia, it would be utterly useless for him to burden himself
+      with the weight of a couple of thousand napoleons in gold.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My anxiety on this point was most excruciating. Over and over I studied
+      the hard names and measures, conned again and again the polysyllables;
+      hoping to be able to arrive some time at an intelligible definition of the
+      terms. I revolved in my mind the words Mukunguru, Ghulabio, Sungomazzi,
+      Kadunduguru, Mutunda, Samisami, Bubu, Merikani, Hafde, Lunghio-Rega, and
+      Lakhio, until I was fairly beside myself. Finally, however, I came to the
+      conclusion that if I reckoned my requirements at fifty khete, or five
+      fundo per day, for two years, and if I purchased only eleven varieties, I
+      might consider myself safe enough. The purchase was accordingly made, and
+      twenty-two sacks of the best species were packed and brought to Capt.
+      Webb's house, ready for transportation to Bagamoyo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After the beads came the wire question. I discovered, after considerable
+      trouble, that Nos. 5 and 6&mdash;almost of the thickness of telegraph wire&mdash;were
+      considered the best numbers for trading purposes. While beads stand for
+      copper coins in Africa, cloth measures for silver; wire is reckoned as
+      gold in the countries beyond the Tan-ga-ni-ka.* Ten frasilah, or 350 lbs.,
+      of brass-wire, my Arab adviser thought, would be ample.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * It will be seen that I differ from Capt. Burton in the
+     spelling of this word, as I deem the letter "y" superfluous.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Having purchased the cloth, the beads, and the wire, it was with no little
+      pride that I surveyed the comely bales and packages lying piled up, row
+      above row, in Capt. Webb's capacious store-room. Yet my work was not
+      ended, it was but beginning; there were provisions, cooking-utensils,
+      boats, rope, twine, tents, donkeys, saddles, bagging, canvas, tar,
+      needles, tools, ammunition, guns, equipments, hatchets, medicines,
+      bedding, presents for chiefs&mdash;in short, a thousand things not yet
+      purchased. The ordeal of chaffering and haggling with steel-hearted
+      Banyans, Hindis, Arabs, and half-castes was most trying. For instance, I
+      purchased twenty-two donkeys at Zanzibar. $40 and $50 were asked, which I
+      had to reduce to $15 or $20 by an infinite amount of argument worthy, I
+      think, of a nobler cause. As was my experience with the ass-dealers so was
+      it with the petty merchants; even a paper of pins was not purchased
+      without a five per cent. reduction from the price demanded, involving, of
+      course, a loss of much time and patience.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After collecting the donkeys, I discovered there were no pack-saddles to
+      be obtained in Zanzibar. Donkeys without pack-saddles were of no use
+      whatever. I invented a saddle to be manufactured by myself and my white
+      man Farquhar, wholly from canvas, rope, and cotton.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Three or four frasilahs of cotton, and ten bolts of canvas were required
+      for the saddles. A specimen saddle was made by myself in order to test its
+      efficiency. A donkey was taken and saddled, and a load of 140 lbs. was
+      fastened to it, and though the animal&mdash;a wild creature of Unyamwezi&mdash;struggled
+      and reared frantic ally, not a particle gave way. After this experiment,
+      Farquhar was set to work to manufacture twenty-one more after the same
+      pattern. Woollen pads were also purchased to protect the animals from
+      being galled. It ought to be mentioned here, perhaps, that the idea of
+      such a saddle as I manufactured, was first derived from the Otago saddle,
+      in use among the transport-trains of the English army in Abyssinia.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A man named John William Shaw&mdash;a native of London, England, lately
+      third-mate of the American ship 'Nevada'&mdash;applied to me for work.
+      Though his discharge from the 'Nevada' was rather suspicious, yet he
+      possessed all the requirements of such a man as I needed, and was an
+      experienced hand with the palm and needle, could cut canvas to fit
+      anything, was a pretty good navigator, ready and willing, so far as his
+      professions went.. I saw no reason to refuse his services, and he was
+      accordingly engaged at $300 per annum, to rank second to William L.
+      Farquhar. Farquhar was a capital navigator and excellent mathematician;
+      was strong, energetic, and clever.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next thing I was engaged upon was to enlist, arm, and equip, a
+      faithful escort of twenty men for the road. Johari, the chief dragoman of
+      the American Consulate, informed me that he knew where certain of Speke's
+      "Faithfuls" were yet to be found. The idea had struck me before, that if I
+      could obtain the services of a few men acquainted with the ways of white
+      men, and who could induce other good men to join the expedition I was
+      organizing, I might consider myself fortunate. More especially had I
+      thought of Seedy Mbarak Mombay, commonly called "Bombay," who though his
+      head was "woodeny," and his hands "clumsy," was considered to be the
+      "faithfulest" of the "Faithfuls."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With the aid of the dragoman Johari, I secured in a few hours the services
+      of Uledi (Capt. Grant's former valet), Ulimengo, Baruti, Ambari, Mabruki
+      (Muinyi Mabruki&mdash;Bull-headed Mabruki, Capt. Burton's former unhappy
+      valet)&mdash;five of Speke's "Faithfuls." When I asked them if they were
+      willing to join another white man's expedition to Ujiji, they replied very
+      readily that they were willing to join any brother of "Speke's." Dr. John
+      Kirk, Her Majesty's Consul at Zanzibar, who was present, told them that
+      though I was no brother of "Speke's," I spoke his language. This
+      distinction mattered little to them: and I heard them, with great delight,
+      declare their readiness to go anywhere with me, or do anything I wished.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mombay, as they called him, or Bombay, as we know him, had gone to Pemba,
+      an island lying north of Zanzibar. Uledi was sure Mombay would jump with
+      joy at the prospect of another expedition. Johari was therefore
+      commissioned to write to him at Pemba, to inform him of the good fortune
+      in store for him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the fourth morning after the letter had been despatched, the famous
+      Bombay made his appearance, followed in decent order and due rank by the
+      "Faithfuls" of "Speke." I looked in vain for the "woodeny head" and
+      "alligator teeth" with which his former master had endowed him. I saw a
+      slender short man of fifty or thereabouts, with a grizzled head, an
+      uncommonly high, narrow forehead, with a very large mouth, showing teeth
+      very irregular, and wide apart. An ugly rent in the upper front row of
+      Bombay's teeth was made with the clenched fist of Capt. Speke in Uganda
+      when his master's patience was worn out, and prompt punishment became
+      necessary. That Capt. Speke had spoiled him with kindness was evident,
+      from the fact that Bombay had the audacity to stand up for a boxing-match
+      with him. But these things I only found out, when, months afterwards, I
+      was called upon to administer punishment to him myself. But, at his first
+      appearance, I was favourably impressed with Bombay, though his face was
+      rugged, his mouth large, his eyes small, and his nose flat.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Salaam aliekum," were the words he greeted me with. "Aliekum salaam," I
+      replied, with all the gravity I could muster. I then informed him I
+      required him as captain of my soldiers to Ujiji. His reply was that he was
+      ready to do whatever I told him, go wherever I liked in short, be a
+      pattern to servants, and a model to soldiers. He hoped I would give him a
+      uniform, and a good gun, both of which were promised.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Upon inquiring for the rest of the "Faithfuls" who accompanied Speke into
+      Egypt, I was told that at Zanzibar there were but six. Ferrajji, Maktub,
+      Sadik, Sunguru, Manyu, Matajari, Mkata, and Almas, were dead; Uledi and
+      Mtamani were in Unyanyembe; Hassan had gone to Kilwa, and Ferahan was
+      supposed to be in Ujiji.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Out of the six "Faithfuls," each of whom still retained his medal for
+      assisting in the "Discovery of the Sources of the Nile," one, poor
+      Mabruki, had met with a sad misfortune, which I feared would incapacitate
+      him from active usefulness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mabruki the "Bull-headed," owned a shamba (or a house with a garden
+      attached to it), of which he was very proud. Close to him lived a
+      neighbour in similar circumstances, who was a soldier of Seyd Majid, with
+      whom Mabruki, who was of a quarrelsome disposition, had a feud, which
+      culminated in the soldier inducing two or three of his comrades to assist
+      him in punishing the malevolent Mabruki, and this was done in a manner
+      that only the heart of an African could conceive. They tied the
+      unfortunate fellow by his wrists to a branch of a tree, and after
+      indulging their brutal appetite for revenge in torturing him, left him to
+      hang in that position for two days. At the expiration of the second day,
+      he was accidentally discovered in a most pitiable condition. His hands had
+      swollen to an immense size, and the veins of one hand having been
+      ruptured, he had lost its use. It is needless to say that, when the affair
+      came to Seyd Majid's ears, the miscreants were severely punished. Dr.
+      Kirk, who attended the poor fellow, succeeded in restoring one hand to
+      something of a resemblance of its former shape, but the other hand is
+      sadly marred, and its former usefulness gone for ever.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      However, I engaged Mabruki, despite his deformed hands, his ugliness and
+      vanity, because he was one of Speke's "Faithfuls." For if he but wagged
+      his tongue in my service, kept his eyes open, and opened his mouth at the
+      proper time, I assured myself I could make him useful.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Bombay, my captain of escort, succeeded in getting eighteen more free men
+      to volunteer as "askari" (soldiers), men whom he knew would not desert,
+      and for whom he declared himself responsible. They were an exceedingly
+      fine-looking body of men, far more intelligent in appearance than I could
+      ever have believed African barbarians could be. They hailed principally
+      from Uhiyow, others from Unyamwezi, some came from Useguhha and Ugindo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their wages were set down at $36 each man per annum, or $3 each per month.
+      Each soldier was provided with a flintlock musket, powder horn,
+      bullet-pouch, knife, and hatchet, besides enough powder and ball for 200
+      rounds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Bombay, in consideration of his rank, and previous faithful services to
+      Burton, Speke and Grant, was engaged at $80 a year, half that sum in
+      advance, a good muzzle-loading rifle, besides, a pistol, knife, and
+      hatchet were given to him, while the other five "Faithfuls," Ambari,
+      Mabruki, Ulimengo, Baruti, and Uledi, were engaged at $40 a year, with
+      proper equipments as soldiers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having studied fairly well all the East African travellers' books
+      regarding Eastern and Central Africa, my mind had conceived the
+      difficulties which would present themselves during the prosecution of my
+      search after Dr. Livingstone.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To obviate all of these, as well as human wit could suggest, was my
+      constant thought and aim.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Shall I permit myself, while looking from Ujiji over the waters of the
+      Tanganika Lake to the other side, to be balked on the threshold of success
+      by the insolence of a King Kannena or the caprice of a Hamed bin
+      Sulayyam?" was a question I asked myself. To guard against such a
+      contingency I determined to carry my own boats. "Then," I thought, "if I
+      hear of Livingstone being on the Tanganika, I can launch my boat and
+      proceed after him."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I procured one large boat, capable of carrying twenty persons, with stores
+      and goods sufficient for a cruise, from the American Consul, for the sum
+      of $80, and a smaller one from another American gentleman for $40. The
+      latter would hold comfortably six men, with suitable stores.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I did not intend to carry the boats whole or bodily, but to strip them of
+      their boards, and carry the timbers and thwarts only. As a substitute for
+      the boards, I proposed to cover each boat with a double canvas skin well
+      tarred. The work of stripping them and taking them to pieces fell to me.
+      This little job occupied me five days.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I also packed them up, for the pagazis. Each load was carefully weighed,
+      and none exceeded 68 lbs. in weight. John Shaw excelled himself in the
+      workmanship displayed on the canvas boats; when finished, they fitted
+      their frames admirably. The canvas&mdash;six bolts of English hemp, No. 3&mdash;was
+      procured from Ludha Damji, who furnished it from the Sultan's storeroom.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      An insuperable obstacle to rapid transit in Africa is the want of
+      carriers, and as speed was the main object of the Expedition under my
+      command, my duty was to lessen this difficulty as much as possible. My
+      carriers could only be engaged after arriving at Bagamoyo, on the
+      mainland. I had over twenty good donkeys ready, and I thought a cart
+      adapted for the footpaths of Africa might prove an advantage. Accordingly
+      I had a cart constructed, eighteen inches wide and five feet long,
+      supplied with two fore-wheels of a light American wagon, more for the
+      purpose of conveying the narrow ammunition-boxes. I estimated that if a
+      donkey could carry to Unyanyembe a load of four frasilahs, or 140 lbs., he
+      ought to be able to draw eight frasilahs on such a cart, which would be
+      equal to the carrying capacity of four stout pagazis or carriers. Events
+      will prove, how my theories were borne out by practice.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When my purchases were completed, and I beheld them piled up, tier after
+      tier, row upon row, here a mass of cooking-utensils, there bundles of
+      rope, tents, saddles, a pile of portmanteaus and boxes, containing every
+      imaginable thing, I confess I was rather abashed at my own temerity. Here
+      were at least six tons of material! "How will it ever be possible," I
+      thought, "to move all this inert mass across the wilderness stretching
+      between the sea, and the great lakes of Africa? Bah, cast all doubts away,
+      man, and have at them! 'Sufficient for the day is the evil thereof,'
+      without borrowing from the morrow."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The traveller must needs make his way into the African interior after a
+      fashion very different from that to which he has been accustomed in other
+      countries. He requires to take with him just what a ship must have when
+      about to sail on a long voyage. He must have his slop chest, his little
+      store of canned dainties, and his medicines, besides which, he must have
+      enough guns, powder, and ball to be able to make a series of good fights
+      if necessary. He must have men to convey these miscellaneous articles; and
+      as a man's maximum load does not exceed 70 lbs., to convey 11,000 lbs.
+      requires nearly 160 men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Europe and the Orient, even Arabia and Turkestan, have royal ways of
+      travelling compared to Africa. Specie is received in all those countries,
+      by which a traveller may carry his means about with him on his own person.
+      Eastern and Central Africa, however, demand a necklace, instead of a cent;
+      two yards of American sheeting, instead of half a dollar, or a florin, and
+      a kitindi of thick brass-wire, in place of a gold piece.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The African traveller can hire neither wagons nor camels, neither horses
+      nor mules, to proceed with him into the interior. His means of conveyance
+      are limited to black and naked men, who demand at least $15 a head for
+      every 70 lbs. weight carried only as far as Unyanyembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One thing amongst others my predecessors omitted to inform men bound for
+      Africa, which is of importance, and that is, that no traveller should ever
+      think of coming to Zanzibar with his money in any other shape than gold
+      coin. Letters of credit, circular notes, and such civilized things I have
+      found to be a century ahead of Zanzibar people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Twenty and twenty-five cents deducted out of every dollar I drew on paper
+      is one of the unpleasant, if not unpleasantest things I have committed to
+      lasting memory. For Zanzibar is a spot far removed from all avenues of
+      European commerce, and coin is at a high premium. A man may talk and
+      entreat, but though he may have drafts, cheques, circular notes, letters
+      of credit, a carte blanche to get what he wants, out of every dollar must,
+      be deducted twenty, twenty-five and thirty cents, so I was told, and so
+      was my experience. What a pity there is no branch-bank here!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I had intended to have gone into Africa incognito. But the fact that a
+      white man, even an American, was about to enter Africa was soon known all
+      over Zanzibar. This fact was repeated a thousand times in the streets,
+      proclaimed in all shop alcoves, and at the custom-house. The native bazaar
+      laid hold of it, and agitated it day and night until my departure. The
+      foreigners, including the Europeans, wished to know the pros and cons of
+      my coming in and going out.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My answer to all questions, pertinent and impertinent, was, I am going to
+      Africa. Though my card bore the words
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     ________________________________________
+    |                                        |
+    |            HENRY M.  STANLEY.          |
+    |                                        |
+    |                                        |
+    |  New York Herald.                      |
+    |________________________________________|
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      very few, I believe, ever coupled the words 'New York Herald' with a
+      search after "Doctor Livingstone." It was not my fault, was it?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ah, me! what hard work it is to start an expedition alone! What with
+      hurrying through the baking heat of the fierce relentless sun from shop to
+      shop, strengthening myself with far-reaching and enduring patience far the
+      haggling contest with the livid-faced Hindi, summoning courage and wit to
+      brow-beat the villainous Goanese, and match the foxy Banyan, talking
+      volumes throughout the day, correcting estimates, making up accounts,
+      superintending the delivery of purchased articles, measuring and weighing
+      them, to see that everything was of full measure and weight, overseeing
+      the white men Farquhar and Shaw, who were busy on donkey saddles, sails,
+      tents, and boats for the Expedition, I felt, when the day was over, as
+      though limbs and brain well deserved their rest. Such labours were mine
+      unremittingly for a month.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having bartered drafts on Mr. James Gordon Bennett to the amount of
+      several thousand dollars for cloth, beads, wire, donkeys, and a thousand
+      necessaries, having advanced pay to the white men, and black escort of the
+      Expedition, having fretted Capt. Webb and his family more than enough with
+      the din of preparation, and filled his house with my goods, there was
+      nothing further to do but to leave my formal adieus with the Europeans,
+      and thank the Sultan and those gentlemen who had assisted me, before
+      embarking for Bagamoyo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The day before my departure from Zanzibar the American Consul, having just
+      habited himself in his black coat, and taking with him an extra black hat,
+      in order to be in state apparel, proceeded with me to the Sultan's palace.
+      The prince had been generous to me; he had presented me with an Arab
+      horse, had furnished me with letters of introduction to his agents, his
+      chief men, and representatives in the interior, and in many other ways had
+      shown himself well disposed towards me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The palace is a large, roomy, lofty, square house close to the fort, built
+      of coral, and plastered thickly with lime mortar. In appearance it is half
+      Arabic and half Italian. The shutters are Venetian blinds painted a vivid
+      green, and presenting a striking contrast to the whitewashed walls. Before
+      the great, lofty, wide door were ranged in two crescents several Baluch
+      and Persian mercenaries, armed with curved swords and targes of rhinoceros
+      hide. Their dress consisted of a muddy-white cotton shirt, reaching to the
+      ancles, girdled with a leather belt thickly studded with silver bosses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As we came in sight a signal was passed to some person inside the
+      entrance. When within twenty yards of the door, the Sultan, who was
+      standing waiting, came down the steps, and, passing through the ranks,
+      advanced toward us, with his right hand stretched out, and a genial smile
+      of welcome on his face. On our side we raised our hats, and shook hands
+      with him, after which, doing according as he bade us, we passed forward,
+      and arrived on the highest step near the entrance door. He pointed
+      forward; we bowed and arrived at the foot of an unpainted and narrow
+      staircase to turn once more to the Sultan. The Consul, I perceived, was
+      ascending sideways, a mode of progression which I saw was intended for a
+      compromise with decency and dignity. At the top of the stairs we waited,
+      with our faces towards the up-coming Prince. Again we were waved
+      magnanimously forward, for before us was the reception-hall and
+      throne-room. I noticed, as I marched forward to the furthest end, that the
+      room was high, and painted in the Arabic style, that the carpet was thick
+      and of Persian fabric, that the furniture consisted of a dozen gilt chairs
+      and a chandelier,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were seated; Ludha Damji, the Banyan collector of customs, a
+      venerable-looking old man, with a shrewd intelligent face, sat on the
+      right of the Sultan; next to him was the great Mohammedan merchant Tarya
+      Topan who had come to be present at the interview, not only because he was
+      one of the councillors of His Highness, but because he also took a lively
+      interest in this American Expedition. Opposite to Ludha sat Capt. Webb,
+      and next to him I was seated, opposite Tarya Topan. The Sultan sat in a
+      gilt chair between the Americans and the councillors. Johari the dragoman
+      stood humbly before the Sultan, expectant and ready to interpret what we
+      had to communicate to the Prince.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Sultan, so far as dress goes, might be taken for a Mingrelian
+      gentleman, excepting, indeed, for the turban, whose ample folds in
+      alternate colours of red, yellow, brown, and white, encircled his head.
+      His long robe was of dark cloth, cinctured round the waist with his rich
+      sword-belt, from which was suspended a gold-hilted scimitar, encased in a
+      scabbard also enriched with gold: His legs and feet were bare, and had a
+      ponderous look about them, since he suffered from that strange curse of
+      Zanzibar&mdash;elephantiasis. His feet were slipped into a pair of watta
+      (Arabic for slippers), with thick soles and a strong leathern band over
+      the instep. His light complexion and his correct features, which are
+      intelligent and regular, bespeak the Arab patrician. They indicate,
+      however, nothing except his high descent and blood; no traits of character
+      are visible unless there is just a trace of amiability, and perfect
+      contentment with himself and all around.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such is Prince, or Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar and Pemba, and the
+      East coast of Africa, from Somali Land to the Mozambique, as he appeared
+      to me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Coffee was served in cups supported by golden finjans, also some cocoa-nut
+      milk, and rich sweet sherbet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The conversation began with the question addressed to the Consul.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Are you well?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Consul.&mdash;"Yes, thank you. How is His Highness?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Highness.&mdash;"Quite well!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Highness to me.&mdash;"Are you well?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Answer.&mdash;"Quite well, thanks!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Consul now introduces business; and questions about my travels follow
+      from His Highness&mdash;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How do you like Persia?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Have you seen Kerbela, Bagdad, Masr, Stamboul?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Have the Turks many soldiers?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How many has Persia?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Is Persia fertile?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How do you like Zanzibar?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having answered each question to his Highness' satisfaction, he handed me
+      letters of introduction to his officers at Bagamoyo and Kaole, and a
+      general introductory letter to all Arab merchants whom I might meet on the
+      road, and concluded his remarks to me, with the expressed hope, that on
+      whatever mission I was bound, I should be perfectly successful.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We bowed ourselves out of his presence in much the same manner that we had
+      bowed ourselves in, he accompanying us to the great entrance door.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mr. Goodhue of Salem, an American merchant long resident in Zanzibar,
+      presented me, as I gave him my adieu, with a blooded bay horse, imported
+      from the Cape of Good Hope, and worth, at least at Zanzibar, $500.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Feb. 4.&mdash;By the 4th of February, twenty-eight days from the date of
+      my arrival at Zanzibar, the organization and equipment of the "'New York
+      Herald' Expedition" was complete; tents and saddles had been manufactured,
+      boats and sails were ready. The donkeys brayed, and the horses neighed
+      impatiently for the road.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Etiquette demanded that I should once more present my card to the European
+      and American Consuls at Zanzibar, and the word "farewell" was said to
+      everybody.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the fifth day, four dhows were anchored before the American Consulate.
+      Into one were lifted the two horses, into two others the donkeys, into the
+      fourth, the largest, the black escort, and bulky moneys of the Expedition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little before noon we set sail. The American flag, a present to the
+      Expedition by that kind-hearted lady, Mrs. Webb, was raised to the
+      mast-head; the Consul, his lady, and exuberant little children, Mary and
+      Charley, were on the housetop waving the starry banner, hats, and
+      handkerchiefs, a token of farewell to me and mine. Happy people, and good!
+      may their course and ours be prosperous, and may God's blessing rest on us
+      all!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER IV. &mdash; LIFE AT BAGAMOYO.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      The isle of Zanzibar with its groves of cocoa-nut, mango, clove, and
+      cinnamon, and its sentinel islets of Chumbi and French, with its
+      whitewashed city and jack-fruit odor, with its harbor and ships that tread
+      the deep, faded slowly from view, and looking westward, the African
+      continent rose, a similar bank of green verdure to that which had just
+      receded till it was a mere sinuous line above the horizon, looming in a
+      northerly direction to the sublimity of a mountain chain. The distance
+      across from Zanzibar to Bagamoyo may be about twenty-five miles, yet it
+      took the dull and lazy dhows ten hours before they dropped anchor on the
+      top of the coral reef plainly visible a few feet below the surface of the
+      water, within a hundred yards of the beach.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The newly-enlisted soldiers, fond of noise and excitement, discharged
+      repeated salvos by way of a salute to the mixed crowd of Arabs, Banyans,
+      and Wasawahili, who stood on the beach to receive the Musungu (white man),
+      which they did with a general stare and a chorus of "Yambo, bana?" (how
+      are you, master?)
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In our own land the meeting with a large crowd is rather a tedious
+      operation, as our independent citizens insist on an interlacing of
+      fingers, and a vigorous shaking thereof before their pride is satisfied,
+      and the peaceful manifestation endorsed; but on this beach, well lined
+      with spectators, a response of "Yambo, bana!" sufficed, except with one
+      who of all there was acknowledged the greatest, and who, claiming, like
+      all great men, individual attention, came forward to exchange another
+      "Yambo!" on his own behalf, and to shake hands. This personage with a long
+      trailing turban, was Jemadar Esau, commander of the Zanzibar force of
+      soldiers, police, or Baluch gendarmes stationed at Bagamoyo. He had
+      accompanied Speke and Grant a good distance into the interior, and they
+      had rewarded him liberally. He took upon himself the responsibility of
+      assisting in the debarkation of the Expedition, and unworthy as was his
+      appearance, disgraceful as he was in his filth, I here commend him for his
+      influence over the rabble to all future East African travellers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Foremost among those who welcomed us was a Father of the Society of
+      St.-Esprit, who with other Jesuits, under Father Superior Horner, have
+      established a missionary post of considerable influence and merit at
+      Bagamoyo. We were invited to partake of the hospitality of the Mission, to
+      take our meals there, and, should we desire it, to pitch our camp on their
+      grounds. But however strong the geniality of the welcome and sincere the
+      heartiness of the invitation, I am one of those who prefer independence to
+      dependence if it is possible. Besides, my sense of the obligation between
+      host and guest had just had a fine edge put upon it by the delicate
+      forbearance of my kind host at Zanzibar, who had betrayed no sign of
+      impatience at the trouble I was only too conscious of having caused him. I
+      therefore informed the hospitable Padre, that only for one night could I
+      suffer myself to be enticed from my camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I selected a house near the western outskirts of the town, where there is
+      a large open square through which the road from Unyanyembe enters. Had I
+      been at Bagamoyo a month, I could not have bettered my location. My tents
+      were pitched fronting the tembe (house) I had chosen, enclosing a small
+      square, where business could be transacted, bales looked over, examined,
+      and marked, free from the intrusion of curious sightseers. After driving
+      the twenty-seven animals of the Expedition into the enclosure in the rear
+      of the house, storing the bales of goods, and placing a cordon of soldiers
+      round, I proceeded to the Jesuit Mission, to a late dinner, being tired
+      and ravenous, leaving the newly-formed camp in charge of the white men and
+      Capt. Bombay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Mission is distant from the town a good half mile, to the north of it;
+      it is quite a village of itself, numbering some fifteen or sixteen houses.
+      There are more than ten padres engaged in the establishment, and as many
+      sisters, and all find plenty of occupation in educing from native crania
+      the fire of intelligence. Truth compels me to state that they are very
+      successful, having over two hundred pupils, boys and girls, in the
+      Mission, and, from the oldest to the youngest, they show the impress of
+      the useful education they have received.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The dinner furnished to the padres and their guest consisted of as many
+      plats as a first-class hotel in Paris usually supplies, and cooked with
+      nearly as much skill, though the surroundings were by no means equal. I
+      feel assured also that the padres, besides being tasteful in their potages
+      and entrees, do not stultify their ideas for lack of that element which
+      Horace, Hafiz, and Byron have praised so much. The champagne&mdash;think
+      of champagne Cliquot in East Africa!&mdash;Lafitte, La Rose, Burgundy, and
+      Bordeaux were of first-rate quality, and the meek and lowly eyes of the
+      fathers were not a little brightened under the vinous influence. Ah! those
+      fathers understand life, and appreciate its duration. Their festive board
+      drives the African jungle fever from their doors, while it soothes the
+      gloom and isolation which strike one with awe, as one emerges from the
+      lighted room and plunges into the depths of the darkness of an African
+      night, enlivened only by the wearying monotone of the frogs and crickets,
+      and the distant ululation of the hyena. It requires somewhat above human
+      effort, unaided by the ruby liquid that cheers, to be always suave and
+      polite amid the dismalities of native life in Africa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After the evening meal, which replenished my failing strength, and for
+      which I felt the intensest gratitude, the most advanced of the pupils came
+      forward, to the number of twenty, with brass instruments, thus forming a
+      full band of music. It rather astonished me to hear instrumental sounds
+      issue forth in harmony from such woolly-headed youngsters; to hear
+      well-known French music at this isolated port, to hear negro boys, that a
+      few months ago knew nothing beyond the traditions of their ignorant
+      mothers, stand forth and chant Parisian songs about French valor and
+      glory, with all the sangfroid of gamins from the purlieus of
+      Saint-Antoine.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I had a most refreshing night's rest, and at dawn I sought out my camp,
+      with a will to enjoy the new life now commencing. On counting the animals,
+      two donkeys were missing; and on taking notes of my African moneys, one
+      coil of No. 6 wire was not to be found. Everybody had evidently fallen on
+      the ground to sleep, oblivious of the fact that on the coast there are
+      many dishonest prowlers at night. Soldiers were despatched to search
+      through the town and neighbourhood, and Jemadar Esau was apprised of our
+      loss, and stimulated to discover the animals by the promise of a reward.
+      Before night one of the missing donkeys was found outside the town
+      nibbling at manioc-leaves, but the other animal and the coil of wire were
+      never found.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among my visitors this first day at Bagamoyo was Ali bin Salim, a brother
+      of the famous Sayd bin Salim, formerly Ras Kafilah to Burton and Speke,
+      and subsequently to Speke and Grant. His salaams were very profuse, and
+      moreover, his brother was to be my agent in Unyamwezi, so that I did not
+      hesitate to accept his offer of assistance. But, alas, for my white face
+      and too trustful nature! this Ali bin Salim turned out to be a snake in
+      the grass, a very sore thorn in my side. I was invited to his comfortable
+      house to partake of coffee. I went there: the coffee was good though
+      sugarless, his promises were many, but they proved valueless. Said he to
+      me, "I am your friend; I wish to serve you., what can I do for you?"
+      Replied I, "I am obliged to you, I need a good friend who, knowing the
+      language and Customs of the Wanyamwezi, can procure me the pagazis I need
+      and send me off quickly. Your brother is acquainted with the Wasungu
+      (white men), and knows that what they promise they make good. Get me a
+      hundred and forty pagazis and I will pay you your price." With unctuous
+      courtesy, the reptile I was now warmly nourishing; said, "I do not want
+      anything from you, my friend, for such a slight service, rest content and
+      quiet; you shall not stop here fifteen days. To-morrow morning I will come
+      and overhaul your bales to see what is needed." I bade him good morning,
+      elated with the happy thought that I was soon to tread the Unyanyembe
+      road.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The reader must be made acquainted with two good and sufficient reasons
+      why I was to devote all my energy to lead the Expedition as quickly as
+      possible from Bagamoyo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      First, I wished to reach Ujiji before the news reached Livingstone that I
+      was in search of him, for my impression of him was that he was a man who
+      would try to put as much distance as possible between us, rather than make
+      an effort to shorten it, and I should have my long journey for nothing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Second, the Masika, or rainy season, would soon be on me, which, if it
+      caught me at Bagamoyo, would prevent my departure until it was over, which
+      meant a delay of forty days, and exaggerated as the rains were by all men
+      with whom I came in contact, it rained every day for forty days without
+      intermission. This I knew was a thing to dread; for I had my memory stored
+      with all kinds of rainy unpleasantnesses. For instance, there was the rain
+      of Virginia and its concomitant horrors&mdash;wetness, mildew, agues,
+      rheumatics, and such like; then there were the English rains, a miserable
+      drizzle causing the blue devils; then the rainy season of Abyssinia with
+      the flood-gates of the firmament opened, and an universal down-pour of
+      rain, enough to submerge half a continent in a few hours; lastly, there
+      was the pelting monsoon of India, a steady shut-in-house kind of rain. To
+      which of these rains should I compare this dreadful Masika of East Africa?
+      Did not Burton write much about black mud in Uzaramo? Well, a country
+      whose surface soil is called black mud in fine weather, what can it be
+      called when forty days' rain beat on it, and feet of pagazis and donkeys
+      make paste of it? These were natural reflections, induced by the
+      circumstances of the hour, and I found myself much exercised in mind in
+      consequence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ali bin Salim, true to his promise, visited my camp on the morrow, with a
+      very important air, and after looking at the pile of cloth bales, informed
+      me that I must have them covered with mat-bags. He said he would send a
+      man to have them measured, but he enjoined me not to make any bargain for
+      the bags, as he would make it all right.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While awaiting with commendable patience the 140 pagazis promised by Ali
+      bin Salim we were all employed upon everything that thought could suggest
+      needful for crossing the sickly maritime region, so that we might make the
+      transit before the terrible fever could unnerve us, and make us joyless. A
+      short experience at Bagamoya showed us what we lacked, what was
+      superfluous, and what was necessary. We were visited one night by a
+      squall, accompanied by furious rain. I had $1,500 worth of pagazi cloth in
+      my tent. In the morning I looked and lo! the drilling had let in rain like
+      a sieve, and every yard of cloth was wet. It occupied two days afterwards
+      to dry the cloths, and fold them again. The drill-tent was condemned, and
+      a No. 5 hemp-canvas tent at onto prepared. After which I felt convinced
+      that my cloth bales, and one year's ammunition, were safe, and that I
+      could defy the Masika.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the hurry of departure from Zanzibar, and in my ignorance of how bales
+      should be made, I had submitted to the better judgment and ripe experience
+      of one Jetta, a commission merchant, to prepare my bales for carriage.
+      Jetta did not weigh the bales as he made them up, but piled the Merikani,
+      Kaniki, Barsati, Jamdani, Joho, Ismahili, in alternate layers, and roped
+      the same into bales. One or two pagazis came to my camp and began to
+      chaffer; they wished to see the bales first, before they would make a
+      final bargain. They tried to raise them up&mdash;ugh! ugh! it was of no
+      use, and withdrew. A fine Salter's spring balance was hung up, and a bale
+      suspended to the hook; the finger indicated 105 lbs. or 3 frasilah, which
+      was just 35 lbs. or one frasilah overweight. Upon putting all the bales to
+      this test, I perceived that Jetta's guess-work, with all his experience,
+      had caused considerable trouble to me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The soldiers were set to work to reopen and repack, which latter task is
+      performed in the following manner:&mdash;We cut a doti, or four yards of
+      Merikani, ordinarily sold at Zanzibar for $2.75 the piece of thirty yards,
+      and spread out. We take a piece or bolt of good Merikani, and instead of
+      the double fold given it by the Nashua and Salem mills, we fold it into
+      three parts, by which the folds have a breadth of a foot; this piece forms
+      the first layer, and will weigh nine pounds; the second layer consists of
+      six pieces of Kaniki, a blue stuff similar to the blouse stuff of France,
+      and the blue jeans of America, though much lighter; the third layer is
+      formed of the second piece of Merikani, the fourth of six more pieces of
+      Kaniki, the fifth of Merikani, the sixth of Kaniki as before, and the
+      seventh and last of Merikani. We have thus four pieces of Merikani, which
+      weigh 36 lbs., and 18 pieces of Kaniki weighing also 36 lbs., making a
+      total of 72 lbs., or a little more than two frasilahs; the cloth is then
+      folded singly over these layers, each corner tied to another. A bundle of
+      coir-rope is then brought, and two men, provided with a wooden mallet for
+      beating and pressing the bale, proceed to tie it up with as much nicety as
+      sailors serve down rigging.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When complete, a bale is a solid mass three feet and a half long, a foot
+      deep, and a foot wide. Of these bales I had to convey eighty-two to
+      Unyanyembe, forty of which consisted solely of the Merikani and Kaniki.
+      The other forty-two contained the Merikani and coloured cloths, which
+      latter were to serve as honga or tribute cloths, and to engage another set
+      of pagazis from Unyanyembe to Ujiji, and from Ujiji to the regions beyond.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The fifteenth day asked of me by Ali bin Salim for the procuring of the
+      pagazis passed by, and there was not the ghost of a pagazi in my camp. I
+      sent Mabruki the Bullheaded to Ali bin Salim, to convey my salaams and
+      express a hope that he had kept his word. In half an hour's time Mabruki
+      returned with the reply of the Arab, that in a few days he would be able
+      to collect them all; but, added Mabruki, slyly, "Bana, I don't believe
+      him. He said aloud to himself, in my hearing, 'Why should I get the
+      Musungu pagazis? Seyd Burghash did not send a letter to me, but to the
+      Jemadar. Why should I trouble myself about him? Let Seyd Burghash write me
+      a letter to that purpose, and I will procure them within two days."'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To my mind this was a time for action: Ali bin Salim should see that it
+      was ill trifling with a white man in earnest to start. I rode down to his
+      house to ask him what he meant.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      His reply was, Mabruki had told a lie as black as his face. He had never
+      said anything approaching to such a thing. He was willing to become my
+      slave&mdash;to become a pagazi himself. But here I stopped the voluble
+      Ali, and informed him that I could not think of employing him in the
+      capacity of a pagazi, neither could I find it in my heart to trouble Seyd
+      Burghash to write a direct letter to him, or to require of a man who had
+      deceived me once, as Ali bin Salim had, any service of any nature
+      whatsoever. It would be better, therefore, if Ali bin Salim would stay
+      away from my camp, and not enter it either in person or by proxy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I had lost fifteen days, for Jemadar Sadur, at Kaole, had never stirred
+      from his fortified house in that village in my service, save to pay a
+      visit, after the receipt of the Sultan's letter. Naranji, custom-house
+      agent at Kaoie, solely under the thumb of the great Ludha Damji, had not
+      responded to Ludha's worded request that he would procure pagazis, except
+      with winks, nods, and promises, and it is but just stated how I fared at
+      the hands of Ali bin Salim. In this extremity I remembered the promise
+      made to me by the great merchant of Zanzibar&mdash;Tarya Topan&mdash;a
+      Mohammedan Hindi&mdash;that he would furnish me with a letter to a young
+      man named Soor Hadji Palloo, who was said to be the best man in Bagamoyo
+      to procure a supply of pagazis.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I despatched my Arab interpreter by a dhow to Zanzibar, with a very
+      earnest request to Capt. Webb that he would procure from Tarya Topan the
+      introductory letter so long delayed. It was the last card in my hand.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the third day the Arab returned, bringing with him not only the letter
+      to Soor Hadji Palloo, but an abundance of good things from the
+      ever-hospitable house of Mr. Webb. In a very short time after the receipt
+      of his letter, the eminent young man Soor Hadji Palloo came to visit me,
+      and informed me he had been requested by Tarya Topan to hire for me one
+      hundred and forty pagazis to Unyanyembe in the shortest time possible.
+      This he said would be very expensive, for there were scores of Arabs and
+      Wasawabili merchants on the look out for every caravan that came in from
+      the interior, and they paid 20 doti, or 80 yards of cloth, to each pagazi.
+      Not willing or able to pay more, many of these merchants had been waiting
+      as long as six months before they could get their quota. "If you,"
+      continued he, "desire to depart quickly, you must pay from 25 to 40 doti,
+      and I can send you off before one month is ended." In reply, I said, "Here
+      are my cloths for pagazis to the amount of $1,750, or 3,500 doti,
+      sufficient to give one hundred and forty men 25 doti each. The most I am
+      willing to pay is 25 doti: send one hundred and forty pagazis to
+      Unyanyembe with my cloth and wire, and I will make your heart glad with
+      the richest present you have ever received." With a refreshing naivete,
+      the "young man" said he did not want any present, he would get me my quota
+      of pagazis, and then I could tell the "Wasungu" what a good "young man" he
+      was, and consequently the benefit he would receive would be an increase of
+      business. He closed his reply with the astounding remark that he had ten
+      pagazis at his house already, and if I would be good enough to have four
+      bales of cloth, two bags of beads, and twenty coils of wire carried to his
+      house, the pagazis could leave Bagamoyo the next day, under charge of
+      three soldiers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "For," he remarked, "it is much better and cheaper to send many small
+      caravans than one large one. Large caravans invite attack, or are delayed
+      by avaricious chiefs upon the most trivial pretexts, while small ones pass
+      by without notice."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bales and the beads were duly carried to Soor Hadji Palloo's house,
+      and the day passed with me in mentally congratulating myself upon my good
+      fortune, in complimenting the young Hindi's talents for business, the
+      greatness and influence of Tarya Topan, and the goodness of Mr. Webb in
+      thus hastening my departure from Bagamoyo. I mentally vowed a handsome
+      present, and a great puff in my book, to Soor Hadji Palloo, and it was
+      with a glad heart that I prepared these soldiers for their march to
+      Unyayembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The task of preparing the first caravan for the Unyanyembe road informed
+      me upon several things that have escaped the notice of my predecessors in
+      East Africa, a timely knowledge of which would have been of infinite
+      service to me at Zanzibar, in the purchase and selection of sufficient and
+      proper cloth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The setting out of the first caravan enlightened me also on the subject of
+      honga, or tribute. Tribute had to be packed by itself, all of choice
+      cloth; for the chiefs, besides being avaricious, are also very fastidious.
+      They will not accept the flimsy cloth of the pagazi, but a royal and
+      exceedingly high-priced dabwani, Ismahili, Rehani, or a Sohari, or dotis
+      of crimson broad cloth. The tribute for the first caravan cost $25. Having
+      more than one hundred and forty pagazis to despatch, this tribute money
+      would finally amount to $330 in gold, with a minimum of 25c. on each
+      dollar. Ponder on this, O traveller! I lay bare these facts for your
+      special instruction.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But before my first caravan was destined to part company with me, Soor
+      Hadji Palloo&mdash;worthy young man&mdash;and I were to come to a definite
+      understanding about money matters. The morning appointed for departure
+      Soor Hadji Palloo came to my hut and presented his bill, with all the
+      gravity of innocence, for supplying the pagazis with twenty-five doti each
+      as their hire to Unyanyembe, begging immediate payment in money. Words
+      fail to express the astonishment I naturally felt, that this sharp-looking
+      young man should so soon have forgotten the verbal contract entered into
+      between him and myself the morning previous, which was to the effect that
+      out of the three thousand doti stored in my tent, and bought expressly for
+      pagazi hire, each and every man hired for me as carriers from Bagamoyo to
+      Unyanyembe, should be paid out of the store there in my tent, when I asked
+      if he remembered the contract, he replied in the affirmative: his reasons
+      for breaking it so soon were, that he wished to sell his cloths, not mine,
+      and for his cloths he should want money, not an exchange. But I gave him
+      to comprehend that as he was procuring pagazis for me, he was to pay my
+      pagazis with my cloths; that all the money I expected to pay him, should
+      be just such a sum I thought adequate for his trouble as my agent, and
+      that only on those terms should he act for me in this or any other matter,
+      and that the "Musungu" was not accustomed to eat his words.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The preceding paragraph embodies many more words than are contained in it.
+      It embodies a dialogue of an hour, an angry altercation of half-an-hour's
+      duration, a vow taken on the part of Soor Hadji Palloo, that if I did not
+      take his cloths he should not touch my business, many tears, entreaties,
+      woeful penitence, and much else, all of which were responded to with, "Do
+      as I want you to do, or do nothing." Finally came relief, and a happy
+      ending. Soor Hadji Palloo went away with a bright face, taking with him
+      the three soldiers' posho (food), and honga (tribute) for the caravan.
+      Well for me that it ended so, and that subsequent quarrels of a similar
+      nature terminated so peaceably, otherwise I doubt whether my departure
+      from Bagamoyo would have happened so early as it did. While I am on this
+      theme, and as it really engrossed every moment of my time at Bagamoyo, I
+      may as well be more explicit regarding Boor Hadji Palloo and his
+      connection with my business.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Boor Hadji Palloo was a smart young man of business, energetic, quick at
+      mental calculation, and seemed to be born for a successful salesman. His
+      eyes were never idle; they wandered over every part of my person, over the
+      tent, the bed, the guns, the clothes, and having swung clear round, began
+      the silent circle over again. His fingers were never at rest, they had a
+      fidgety, nervous action at their tips, constantly in the act of feeling
+      something; while in the act of talking to me, he would lean over and feel
+      the texture of the cloth of my trousers, my coat, or my shoes or socks:
+      then he would feel his own light jamdani shirt or dabwain loin-cloth,
+      until his eyes casually resting upon a novelty, his body would lean
+      forward, and his arm was stretched out with the willing fingers. His jaws
+      also were in perpetual motion, caused by vile habits he had acquired of
+      chewing betel-nut and lime, and sometimes tobacco and lime. They gave out
+      a sound similar to that of a young shoat, in the act of sucking. He was a
+      pious Mohammedan, and observed the external courtesies and ceremonies of
+      the true believers. He would affably greet me, take off his shoes, enter
+      my tent protesting he was not fit to sit in my presence, and after being
+      seated, would begin his ever-crooked errand. Of honesty, literal and
+      practical honesty, this youth knew nothing; to the pure truth he was an
+      utter stranger; the falsehoods he had uttered during his short life seemed
+      already to have quenched the bold gaze of innocence from his eyes, to have
+      banished the colour of truthfulness from his features, to have transformed
+      him&mdash;yet a stripling of twenty&mdash;into a most accomplished rascal,
+      and consummate expert in dishonesty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During the six weeks I encamped at Bagamoyo, waiting for my quota of men,
+      this lad of twenty gave me very much trouble. He was found out half a
+      dozen times a day in dishonesty, yet was in no way abashed by it. He would
+      send in his account of the cloths supplied to the pagazis, stating them to
+      be 25 paid to each; on sending a man to inquire I would find the greatest
+      number to have been 20, and the smallest 12. Soor Hadji Palloo described
+      the cloths to be of first-class quality, Ulyah cloths, worth in the market
+      four times more than the ordinary quality given to the pagazis, yet a
+      personal examination would prove them to be the flimsiest goods sold, such
+      as American sheeting 2 1/2 feet broad, and worth $2.75 per 30 yards a
+      piece at Zanzibar, or the most inferior Kaniki, which is generally sold at
+      $9 per score. He would personally come to my camp and demand 40 lbs. of
+      Sami-Sami, Merikani, and Bubu beads for posho, or caravan rations; an
+      inspection of their store before departure from their first camp from
+      Bagamoyo would show a deficiency ranging from 5 to 30 lbs. Moreover, he
+      cheated in cash-money, such as demanding $4 for crossing the Kingani Ferry
+      for every ten pagazis, when the fare was $2 for the same number; and an
+      unconscionable number of pice (copper coins equal in value to 3/4 of a
+      cent) were required for posho. It was every day for four weeks that this
+      system of roguery was carried out. Each day conceived a dozen new schemes;
+      every instant of his time he seemed to be devising how to plunder, until I
+      was fairly at my wits' end how to thwart him. Exposure before a crowd of
+      his fellows brought no blush of shame to his sallow cheeks; he would
+      listen with a mere shrug of the shoulders and that was all, which I might
+      interpret any way it pleased me. A threat to reduce his present had no
+      effect; a bird in the hand was certainly worth two in the bush for him, so
+      ten dollars' worth of goods stolen and in his actual possession was of
+      more intrinsic value than the promise of $20 in a few days, though it was
+      that of a white man.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Readers will of course ask themselves why I did not, after the first
+      discovery of these shameless proceedings, close my business with him, to
+      which I make reply, that I could not do without him unless his equal were
+      forthcoming, that I never felt so thoroughly dependent on any one man as I
+      did upon him; without his or his duplicate's aid, I must have stayed at
+      Bagamoyo at least six months, at the end of which time the Expedition
+      would have become valueless, the rumour of it having been blown abroad to
+      the four winds. It was immediate departure that was essential to my
+      success&mdash;departure from Bagamoyo&mdash;after which it might be
+      possible for me to control my own future in a great measure.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These troubles were the greatest that I could at this time imagine. I have
+      already stated that I had $1,750 worth of pagazis' clothes, or 3,500 doti,
+      stored in my tent, and above what my bales contained. Calculating one
+      hundred and forty pagazis at 25 doti each, I supposed I had enough, yet,
+      though I had been trying to teach the young Hindi that the Musungu was not
+      a fool, nor blind to his pilfering tricks, though the 3,500 doti were all
+      spent; though I had only obtained one hundred and thirty pagazis at 25
+      doti each, which in the aggregate amounted to 3,200 doti: Soor Hadji
+      Palloo's bill was $1,400 cash extra. His plea was that he had furnished
+      Ulyah clothes for Muhongo 240 doti, equal in value to 960 of my doti, that
+      the money was spent in ferry pice, in presents to chiefs of caravans of
+      tents, guns, red broad cloth, in presents to people on the Mrima (coast)
+      to induce them to hunt up pagazis. Upon this exhibition of most ruthless
+      cheating I waxed indignant, and declared to him that if he did not run
+      over his bill and correct it, he should go without a pice.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But before the bill could be put into proper shape, my words, threats, and
+      promises falling heedlessly on a stony brain, a man, Kanjee by name, from
+      the store of Tarya Topan, of Zanzibar, had to come over, when the bill was
+      finally reduced to $738. Without any disrespect to Tarya Topan, I am
+      unable to decide which is the most accomplished rascal, Kanjee, or young
+      Soor Hadji Palloo; in the words of a white man who knows them both, "there
+      is not the splitting of a straw between them." Kanjee is deep and sly,
+      Soor Hadji Palloo is bold and incorrigible. But peace be to them both, may
+      their shaven heads never be covered with the troublous crown I wore at
+      Bagamoyo!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My dear friendly reader, do not think, if I speak out my mind in this or
+      in any other chapter upon matters seemingly trivial and unimportant, that
+      seeming such they should be left unmentioned. Every tittle related is a
+      fact, and to knew facts is to receive knowledge.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      How could I ever recite my experience to you if I did not enter upon these
+      miserable details, which sorely distract the stranger upon his first
+      arrival? Had I been a Government official, I had but wagged my finger and
+      my quota of pagazis had been furnished me within a week; but as an
+      individual arriving without the graces of official recognition, armed with
+      no Government influence, I had to be patient, bide my time, and chew the
+      cud of irritation quietly, but the bread I ate was not all sour, as this
+      was.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The white men, Farquhar and Shaw, were kept steadily at work upon
+      water-proof tents of hemp canvas, for I perceived, by the premonitory
+      showers of rain that marked the approach of the Masika that an ordinary
+      tent of light cloth would subject myself to damp and my goods to mildew,
+      and while there was time to rectify all errors that had crept into my
+      plans through ignorance or over haste, I thought it was not wise to permit
+      things to rectify themselves. Now that I have returned uninjured in
+      health, though I have suffered the attacks of twenty-three fevers within
+      the short space of thirteen months; I must confess I owe my life, first,
+      to the mercy of God; secondly, to the enthusiasm for my work, which
+      animated me from the beginning to the end; thirdly, to having never ruined
+      my constitution by indulgence in vice and intemperance; fourthly, to the
+      energy of my nature; fifthly, to a native hopefulness which never died;
+      and, sixthly, to having furnished myself with a capacious water and damp
+      proof canvas house. And here, if my experience may be of value, I would
+      suggest that travellers, instead of submitting their better judgment to
+      the caprices of a tent-maker, who will endeavour to pass off a handsomely
+      made fabric of his own, which is unsuited to all climes, to use his own
+      judgment, and get the best and strongest that money will buy. In the end
+      it will prove the cheapest, and perhaps be the means of saving his life.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On one point I failed, and lest new and young travellers fall into the
+      same error which marred much of my enjoyment, this paragraph is written.
+      One must be extremely careful in his choice of weapons, whether for sport
+      or defence. A traveller should have at least three different kinds of
+      guns. One should be a fowling-piece, the second should be a
+      double-barrelled rifle, No. 10 or 12, the third should be a
+      magazine-rifle, for defence. For the fowling-piece I would suggest No. 12
+      bore, with barrels at least four feet in length. For the rifle for larger
+      game, I would point out, with due deference to old sportsmen, of course,
+      that the best guns for African game are the English Lancaster and Reilly
+      rifles; and for a fighting weapon, I maintain that the best yet invented
+      is the American Winchester repeating rifle, or the "sixteen, shooter" as
+      it is called, supplied with the London Eley's ammunition. If I suggest as
+      a fighting weapon the American Winchester, I do not mean that the
+      traveller need take it for the purpose of offence, but as the beat means
+      of efficient defence, to save his own life against African banditti, when
+      attacked, a thing likely to happen any time.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I met a young man soon after returning from the interior, who declared his
+      conviction that the "Express," rifle was the most perfect weapon ever
+      invented to destroy African game. Very possibly the young man may be
+      right, and that the "Express" rifle is all he declares it to be, but he
+      had never practised with it against African game, and as I had never tried
+      it, I could not combat his assertion: but I could relate my experiences
+      with weapons, having all the penetrating powers of the "Express," and
+      could inform him that though the bullets penetrated through the animals,
+      they almost always failed to bring down the game at the first fire. On the
+      other hand, I could inform him, that during the time I travelled with Dr.
+      Livingstone the Doctor lent me his heavy Reilly rifle with which I seldom
+      failed to bring an animal or two home to the camp, and that I found the
+      Fraser shell answer all purposes for which it was intended. The feats
+      related by Capt. Speke and Sir Samuel Baker are no longer matter of
+      wonderment to the young sportsman, when he has a Lancaster or a Reilly in
+      his hand. After very few trials he can imitate them, if not excel their
+      Leeds, provided he has a steady hand. And it is to forward this end that
+      this paragraph is written. African game require "bone-crushers;" for any
+      ordinary carbine possesses sufficient penetrative qualities, yet has not
+      he disabling qualities which a gun must possess to be useful in the hands
+      of an African explorer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I had not been long at Bagamoyo before I went over to Mussoudi's camp, to
+      visit the "Livingstone caravan" which the British Consul had despatched on
+      the first day of November, 1870, to the relief of Livingstone. The number
+      of packages was thirty-five, which required as many men to convey them to
+      Unyanyembe. The men chosen to escort this caravan were composed of
+      Johannese and Wahiyow, seven in number. Out of the seven, four were
+      slaves. They lived in clover here&mdash;thoughtless of the errand they had
+      been sent upon, and careless of the consequences. What these men were
+      doing at Bagamoyo all this time I never could conceive, except indulging
+      their own vicious propensities. It would be nonsense to say there were no
+      pagazis; because I know there were at least fifteen caravans which had
+      started for the interior since the Ramadan (December 15th, 1870). Yet
+      Livingstone's caravan had arrived at this little town of Bagamoyo November
+      2nd, and here it had been lying until the 10th February, in all, 100 days,
+      for lack of the limited number of thirty-five pagazis, a number that might
+      be procured within two days through consular influence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Bagamoyo has a most enjoyable climate. It is far preferable in every sense
+      to that of Zanzibar. We were able to sleep in the open air, and rose
+      refreshed and healthy each morning, to enjoy our matutinal bath in the
+      sea; and by the time the sun had risen we were engaged in various
+      preparations for our departure for the interior. Our days were enlivened
+      by visits from the Arabs who were also bound for Unyanyembe; by comical
+      scenes in the camp; sometimes by court-martials held on the refractory; by
+      a boxing-match between Farquhar and Shaw, necessitating my prudent
+      interference when they waxed too wroth; by a hunting excursion now and
+      then to the Kingani plain and river; by social conversation with the old
+      Jemadar and his band of Baluches, who were never tired of warning me that
+      the Masika was at hand, and of advising me that my best course was to
+      hurry on before the season for travelling expired.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among the employees with the Expedition were two Hindi and two Goanese.
+      They had conceived the idea that the African interior was an El Dorado,
+      the ground of which was strewn over with ivory tusks, and they had clubbed
+      together; while their imaginations were thus heated, to embark in a little
+      enterprise of their own. Their names were Jako, Abdul Kader, Bunder
+      Salaam, and Aranselar; Jako engaged in my service, as carpenter and
+      general help; Abdul Kader as a tailor, Bunder Salaam as cook, and
+      Aranselar as chief butler.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But Aranselar, with an intuitive eye, foresaw that I was likely to prove a
+      vigorous employer, and while there was yet time he devoted most of it to
+      conceive how it were possible to withdraw from the engagement. He received
+      permission upon asking for it to go to Zanzibar to visit his friends. Two
+      days afterwards I was informed he had blown his right eye out, and
+      received a medical confirmation of the fact, and note of the extent of the
+      injury, from Dr. Christie, the physician to His Highness Seyd Burghash.
+      His compatriots I imagined were about planning the same thing, but a
+      peremptory command to abstain from such folly, issued after they had
+      received their advance-pay, sufficed to check any sinister designs they
+      may have formed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A groom was caught stealing from the bales, one night, and the chase after
+      him into the country until he vanished out of sight into the jungle, was
+      one of the most agreeable diversions which occurred to wear away the
+      interval employed in preparing for the march.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I had now despatched four caravans into the interior, and the fifth, which
+      was to carry the boats and boxes, personal luggage, and a few cloth and
+      bead loads, was ready to be led by myself. The following is the order of
+      departure of the caravans.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1871. Feb. 6.&mdash;Expedition arrived at Bagamoyo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1871. Feb. 18.&mdash;First caravan departs with twenty-four pagazis and
+      three soldiers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1871. Feb. 21.&mdash;Second caravan departs with twenty-eight pagazis, two
+      chiefs, and two soldiers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1871. Feb. 25.&mdash;Third caravan departs with twenty-two pagazis, ten
+      donkeys, one white man, one cook, and three soldiers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1871. March. 11.&mdash;Fourth caravan departs with fifty-five pagazis, two
+      chiefs, and three soldiers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1871. March. 21.&mdash;Fifth caravan departs with twenty-eight pagazis,
+      twelve soldiers, two white men, one tailor, one cook, one interpreter, one
+      gun-bearer, seventeen asses, two horses, and one dog.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Total number, inclusive of all souls, comprised in caravans connected with
+      the "New York Herald' Expedition," 192.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER V. &mdash; THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Leaving Bagamoyo for the interior.&mdash;Constructing a Bridge.&mdash;
+     Our first troubles.&mdash;Shooting Hippopotami.&mdash;A first view of
+     the Game Land.&mdash;Anticipating trouble with the Wagogo.&mdash;The
+     dreadful poison&mdash;flies.&mdash;Unlucky adventures while hunting.&mdash;
+     The cunning chief of Kingaru.&mdash;Sudden death of my two
+     horses.&mdash;A terrible experience.&mdash;The city of the "Lion
+     Lord."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      On the 21st of March, exactly seventy-three days after my arrival at
+      Zanzibar, the fifth caravan, led by myself, left the town of Bagamoyo for
+      our first journey westward, with "Forward!" for its mot du guet. As the
+      kirangozi unrolled the American flag, and put himself at the head of the
+      caravan, and the pagazis, animals, soldiers, and idlers were lined for the
+      march, we bade a long farewell to the dolce far niente of civilised life,
+      to the blue ocean, and to its open road to home, to the hundreds of dusky
+      spectators who were there to celebrate our departure with repeated salvoes
+      of musketry.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our caravan is composed of twenty-eight pagazis, including the kirangozi,
+      or guide; twelve soldiers under Capt. Mbarak Bombay, in charge of
+      seventeen donkeys and their loads; Selim, my interpreter, in charge of the
+      donkey and cart and its load; one cook and sub, who is also to be tailor
+      and ready hand for all, and leads the grey horse; Shaw, once mate of a
+      ship, now transformed into rearguard and overseer for the caravan, who is
+      mounted on a good riding-donkey, and wearing a canoe-like tepee and
+      sea-boots; and lastly, on, the splendid bay horse presented to me by Mr.
+      Goodhue, myself, called Bana Mkuba, "the big master," by my people&mdash;the
+      vanguard, the reporter, the thinker, and leader of the Expedition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Altogether the Expedition numbers on the day of departure three white men,
+      twenty-three soldiers, four supernumeraries, four chiefs, and one hundred
+      and fifty-three pagazis, twenty-seven donkeys, and one cart, conveying
+      cloth, beads, and wire, boat-fixings, tents, cooking utensils and dishes,
+      medicine, powder, small shot, musket-balls, and metallic cartridges;
+      instruments and small necessaries, such as soap, sugar, tea, coffee,
+      Liebig's extract of meat, pemmican, candles, &amp;c., which make a total
+      of 153 loads. The weapons of defence which the Expedition possesses
+      consist of one double-barrel breech-loading gun, smooth bore; one American
+      Winchester rifle, or "sixteen-shooter;" one Henry rifle, or
+      "sixteen-shooter;" two Starr's breech-loaders, one Jocelyn breech-loader,
+      one elephant rifle, carrying balls eight to the pound; two breech-loading
+      revolvers, twenty-four muskets (flint locks), six single-barrelled
+      pistols, one battle-axe, two swords, two daggers (Persian kummers,
+      purchased at Shiraz by myself), one boar-spear, two American axes 4 lbs.
+      each, twenty-four hatchets, and twenty-four butcher-knives.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Expedition has been fitted with care; whatever it needed was not
+      stinted; everything was provided. Nothing was done too hurriedly, yet
+      everything was purchased, manufactured, collected, and compounded with the
+      utmost despatch consistent with efficiency and means. Should it fail of
+      success in its errand of rapid transit to Ujiji and back, it must simply
+      happen from an accident which could not be controlled. So much for the <i>personnel</i>
+      of the Expedition and its purpose, until its <i>point de mire</i> be
+      reached.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We left Bagamoyo the attraction of all the curious, with much eclat, and
+      defiled up a narrow lane shaded almost to twilight by the dense umbrage of
+      two parallel hedges of mimosas. We were all in the highest spirits. The
+      soldiers sang, the kirangozi lifted his voice into a loud bellowing note,
+      and fluttered the American flag, which told all on-lookers, "Lo, a
+      Musungu's caravan!" and my heart, I thought, palpitated much too quickly
+      for the sober face of a leader. But I could not check it; the enthusiasm
+      of youth still clung to me&mdash;despite my travels; my pulses bounded
+      with the full glow of staple health; behind me were the troubles which had
+      harassed me for over two months. With that dishonest son of a Hindi, Soor
+      Hadji Palloo, I had said my last word; of the blatant rabble, of Arabs,
+      Banyans, and Baluches I had taken my last look; with the Jesuits of the
+      French Mission I had exchanged farewells, and before me beamed the sun of
+      promise as he sped towards the Occident. Loveliness glowed around me. I
+      saw fertile fields, riant vegetation, strange trees&mdash;I heard the cry
+      of cricket and pee-wit, and sibilant sound of many insects, all of which
+      seemed to tell me, "At last you are started." What could I do but lift my
+      face toward the pure-glowing sky, and cry, "God be thanked!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first camp, Shamba Gonera, we arrived at in 1 hour 30 minutes, equal
+      to 3 1/4 miles. This first, or "little journey," was performed very well,
+      "considering," as the Irishman says. The boy Selim upset the cart not more
+      than three times. Zaidi, the soldier, only once let his donkey, which
+      carried one bag of my clothes and a box of ammunition, lie in a puddle of
+      black water. The clothes have to be re-washed; the ammunition-box, thanks
+      to my provision, was waterproof. Kamna perhaps knew the art of
+      donkey-driving, but, overjoyful at the departure, had sung himself into
+      oblivion of the difficulties with which an animal of the pure asinine
+      breed has naturally to contend against, such as not knowing the right
+      road, and inability to resist the temptation of straying into the depths
+      of a manioc field; and the donkey, ignorant of the custom in vogue amongst
+      ass-drivers of flourishing sticks before an animal's nose, and
+      misunderstanding the direction in which he was required to go, ran off at
+      full speed along an opposite road, until his pack got unbalanced, and he
+      was fain to come to the earth. But these incidents were trivial, of no
+      importance, and natural to the first "little journey" in East Africa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The soldiers' point of character leaked out just a little. Bombay turned
+      out to be honest and trusty, but slightly disposed to be dilatory. Uledi
+      did more talking than work; while the runaway Ferajji and the
+      useless-handed Mabruki Burton turned out to be true men and staunch,
+      carrying loads the sight of which would have caused the strong-limbed
+      hamals of Stamboul to sigh.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The saddles were excellent, surpassing expectation. The strong hemp canvas
+      bore its one hundred and fifty-pounds' burden with the strength of bull
+      hide, and the loading and unloading of miscellaneous baggage was performed
+      with systematic despatch. In brief, there was nothing to regret&mdash;the
+      success of the journey proved our departure to be anything but premature.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next three days were employed in putting the finishing touches to our
+      preparations for the long land journey and our precautions against the
+      Masika, which was now ominously near, and in settling accounts.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Shamba Gonera means Gonera's Field. Gonera is a wealthy Indian widow, well
+      disposed towards the Wasungu (whites). She exports much cloth, beads, and
+      wire into the far interior, and imports in return much ivory. Her house is
+      after the model of the town houses, with long sloping roof and projecting
+      eaves, affording a cool shade, under which the pagazis love to loiter. On
+      its southern and eastern side stretch the cultivated fields which supply
+      Bagamoyo with the staple grain, matama, of East Africa; on the left grow
+      Indian corn, and muhogo, a yam-like root of whitish colour, called by some
+      manioc; when dry, it is ground and compounded into cakes similar to army
+      slapjacks. On the north, just behind the house, winds a black quagmire, a
+      sinuous hollow, which in its deepest parts always contains water&mdash;the
+      muddy home of the brake-and-rush-loving "kiboko" or hippopotamus. Its
+      banks, crowded with dwarf fan-palm, tall water-reeds, acacias, and
+      tiger-grass, afford shelter to numerous aquatic birds, pelicans, &amp;c.
+      After following a course north-easterly, it conflows with the Kingani,
+      which, at distance of four miles from Gonera's country-house; bends
+      eastward into the sea. To the west, after a mile of cultivation, fall and
+      recede in succession the sea-beach of old in lengthy parallel waves,
+      overgrown densely with forest grass and marsh reeds. On the spines of
+      these land-swells flourish ebony, calabash, and mango.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Sofari&mdash;sofari leo! Pakia, pakia!"&mdash;"A journey&mdash;a journey
+      to day! Set out!&mdash;set out!" rang the cheery voice of the kirangozi,
+      echoed by that of my servant Selim, on the morning of the fourth day,
+      which was fixed for our departure in earnest. As I hurried my men to their
+      work, and lent a hand with energy to drop the tents, I mentally resolved
+      that, if my caravans a should give me clear space, Unyanyembe should be
+      our resting-place before three months expired. By 6 A.M. our early
+      breakfast was despatched, and the donkeys and pagazis were defiling from
+      Camp Gonera. Even at this early hour, and in this country place, there was
+      quite a collection of curious natives, to whom we gave the parting
+      "Kwaheri" with sincerity. My bay horse was found to be invaluable for the
+      service of a quarter-master of a transport-train; for to such was I
+      compelled to compare myself. I could stay behind until the last donkey had
+      quitted the camp, and, by a few minutes' gallop, I could put myself at the
+      head, leaving Shaw to bring up the rear.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The road was a mere footpath, and led over a soil which, though sandy, was
+      of surprising fertility, producing grain and vegetables a hundredfold, the
+      sowing and planting of which was done in the most unskilful manner. In
+      their fields, at heedless labor, were men and women in the scantiest
+      costumes, compared to which Adam and Eve, in their fig-tree apparel, must
+      have been <i>en grande tenue</i>. We passed them with serious faces, while
+      they laughed and giggled, and pointed their index fingers at this and
+      that, which to them seemed so strange and bizarre.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In about half an hour we had left the tall matama and fields of
+      water-melons, cucumbers, and manioc; and, crossing a reedy slough, were in
+      an open forest of ebony and calabash. In its depths are deer in plentiful
+      numbers, and at night it is visited by the hippopotami of the Kingani for
+      the sake of its grass. In another hour we had emerged from the woods, and
+      were looking down upon the broad valley of the Kingani, and a scene
+      presented itself so utterly different from what my foolish imagination had
+      drawn, that I felt quite relieved by the pleasing disappointment. Here was
+      a valley stretching four miles east and west, and about eight miles north
+      and south, left with the richest soil to its own wild growth of grass&mdash;which
+      in civilization would have been a most valuable meadow for the rearing of
+      cattle&mdash;invested as it was by dense forests, darkening the horizon at
+      all points of the compass, and folded in by tree-clad ridges.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the sound of our caravan the red antelope bounded away to our right and
+      the left, and frogs hushed their croak. The sun shone hot, and while
+      traversing the valley we experienced a little of its real African fervour.
+      About half way across we came to a sluice of stagnant water which,
+      directly in the road of the caravan, had settled down into an oozy pond.
+      The pagazis crossed a hastily-constructed bridge, thrown up a long time
+      ago by some Washensi Samaritans. It was an extraordinary affair; rugged
+      tree limbs resting on very unsteady forked piles, and it had evidently
+      tested the patience of many a loaded Mnyamwezi, as it did those porters of
+      our caravan. Our weaker animals were unloaded, the puddle between Bagamoyo
+      and Genera having taught us prudence. But this did not occasion much
+      delay; the men worked smartly under Shaw's supervision.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The turbid Kingani, famous for its hippopotami, was reached in a short
+      time, and we began to thread the jungle along its right bank until we were
+      halted point-blank by a narrow sluice having an immeasurable depth of
+      black mud. The difficulty presented by this was very grave, though its
+      breadth was barely eight feet; the donkeys, and least of all the horses,
+      could not be made to traverse two poles like our biped carriers, neither
+      could they be driven into the sluice, where they would quickly founder.
+      The only available way of crossing it in safety was by means of a bridge,
+      to endure in this conservative land for generations as the handiwork of
+      the Wasungu. So we set to work, there being no help for it, with American
+      axes&mdash;the first of their kind the strokes of which ever rang in this
+      part of the world&mdash;to build a bridge. Be sure it was made quickly,
+      for where the civilized white is found, a difficulty must vanish. The
+      bridge was composed of six stout trees thrown across, over these were laid
+      crosswise fifteen pack saddles, covered again with a thick layer of grass.
+      All the animals crossed it safely, and then for a third time that morning
+      the process of wading was performed. The Kingani flowed northerly here,
+      and our course lay down its right bank. A half mile in that direction
+      through a jungle of giant reeds and extravagant climbers brought us to the
+      ferry, where the animals had to be again unloaded&mdash;verily, I wished
+      when I saw its deep muddy waters that I possessed the power of Moses with
+      his magic rod, or what would have answered my purpose as well, Aladdin's
+      ring, for then I could have found myself and party on the opposite side
+      without further trouble; but not having either of these gifts I issued
+      orders for an immediate crossing, for it was ill wishing sublime things
+      before this most mundane prospect.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kingwere, the canoe paddler, espying us from his brake covert, on the
+      opposite side, civilly responded to our halloos, and brought his huge
+      hollowed tree skilfully over the whirling eddies of the river to where we
+      stood waiting for him. While one party loaded the canoe with our goods,
+      others got ready a long rape to fasten around the animals' necks,
+      wherewith to haul them through the river to the other bank. After seeing
+      the work properly commenced, I sat down on a condemned canoe to amuse
+      myself with the hippopotami by peppering their thick skulls with my No. 12
+      smooth-bore. The Winchester rifle (calibre 44), a present from the Hon.
+      Edward Joy Morris&mdash;our minister at Constantinople&mdash;did no more
+      than slightly tap them, causing about as much injury as a boy's sling; it
+      was perfect in its accuracy of fire, for ten times in succession I struck
+      the tops of their heads between the ears. One old fellow, with the look of
+      a sage, was tapped close to the right ear by one of these bullets. Instead
+      of submerging himself as others had done he coolly turned round his head
+      as if to ask, "Why this waste of valuable cartridges on us?" The response
+      to the mute inquiry of his sageship was an ounce-and-a-quarter bullet from
+      the smooth-bore, which made him bellow with pain, and in a few moments he
+      rose up again, tumbling in his death agonies. As his groans were so
+      piteous, I refrained from a useless sacrifice of life, and left the
+      amphibious horde in peace.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little knowledge concerning these uncouth inmates of the African waters
+      was gained even during the few minutes we were delayed at the ferry. When
+      undisturbed by foreign sounds, they congregate in shallow water on the
+      sand bars, with the fore half of their bodies exposed to the warm
+      sunshine, and are in appearance, when thus somnolently reposing, very like
+      a herd of enormous swine. When startled by the noise of an intruder, they
+      plunge hastily into the depths, lashing the waters into a yellowish foam,
+      and scatter themselves below the surface, when presently the heads of a
+      few reappear, snorting the water from their nostrils, to take a fresh
+      breath and a cautious scrutiny around them; when thus, we see but their
+      ears, forehead, eyes and nostrils, and as they hastily submerge again it
+      requires a steady wrist and a quick hand to shoot them. I have heard
+      several comparisons made of their appearance while floating in this
+      manner: some Arabs told me before I had seen them that they looked like
+      dead trees carried down the river; others, who in some country had seen
+      hogs, thought they resembled them, but to my mind they look more like
+      horses when swimming their curved necks and pointed ears, their wide eyes
+      and expanded nostrils, favor greatly this comparison.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At night they seek the shore, and wander several miles over the country,
+      luxuriating among its rank grasses. To within four miles of the town of
+      Bagamoyo (the Kingani is eight miles distant) their wide tracks are seen.
+      Frequently, if not disturbed by the startling human voice, they make a
+      raid on the rich corn-stalks of the native cultivators, and a dozen of
+      them will in a few minutes make a frightful havoc in a large field of this
+      plant. Consequently, we were not surprised, while delayed at the ferry, to
+      hear the owners of the corn venting loud halloos, like the rosy-cheeked
+      farmer boys in England when scaring the crows away from the young wheat.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The caravan in the meanwhile had crossed safely&mdash;bales, baggage,
+      donkeys, and men. I had thought to have camped on the bank, so as to amuse
+      myself with shooting antelope, and also for the sake of procuring their
+      meat, in order to save my goats, of which I had a number constituting my
+      live stock of provisions; but, thanks to the awe and dread which my men
+      entertained of the hippopotami, I was hurried on to the outpost of the
+      Baluch garrison at Bagamoyo, a small village called Kikoka, distant four
+      miles from the river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The western side of the river was a considerable improvement upon the
+      eastern. The plain, slowly heaving upwards, as smoothly as the beach of a
+      watering-place, for the distance of a mile, until it culminated in a
+      gentle and rounded ridge, presented none of those difficulties which
+      troubled us on the other side. There were none of those cataclysms of mire
+      and sloughs of black mud and over-tall grasses, none of that miasmatic
+      jungle with its noxious emissions; it was just such a scene as one may
+      find before an English mansion&mdash;a noble expanse of lawn and sward,
+      with boscage sufficient to agreeably diversify it. After traversing the
+      open plain, the road led through a grove of young ebony trees, where
+      guinea-fowls and a hartebeest were seen; it then wound, with all the
+      characteristic eccentric curves of a goat-path, up and down a succession
+      of land-waves crested by the dark green foliage of the mango, and the
+      scantier and lighter-coloured leaves of the enormous calabash. The
+      depressions were filled with jungle of more or less density, while here
+      and there opened glades, shadowed even during noon by thin groves of
+      towering trees. At our approach fled in terror flocks of green pigeons,
+      jays, ibis, turtledoves, golden pheasants, quails and moorhens, with crows
+      and hawks, while now and then a solitary pelican winged its way to the
+      distance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nor was this enlivening prospect without its pairs of antelope, and
+      monkeys which hopped away like Australian kangaroos; these latter were of
+      good size, with round bullet heads, white breasts, and long tails tufted
+      at the end.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We arrived at Kikoka by 5 P.M., having loaded and unloaded our pack
+      animals four times, crossing one deep puddle, a mud sluice, and a river,
+      and performed a journey of eleven miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The settlement of Kikoka is a collection of straw huts; not built after
+      any architectural style, but after a bastard form, invented by indolent
+      settlers from the Mrima and Zanzibar for the purpose of excluding as much
+      sunshine as possible from the eaves and interior. A sluice and some wells
+      provide them with water, which though sweet is not particularly wholesome
+      or appetizing, owing to the large quantities of decayed matter which is
+      washed into it by the rains, and is then left to corrupt in it. A weak
+      effort has been made to clear the neighbourhood for providing a place for
+      cultivation, but to the dire task of wood-chopping and jungle-clearing the
+      settlers prefer occupying an open glade, which they clear of grass, so as
+      to be able to hoe up two or three inches of soil, into which they cast
+      their seed, confident of return.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day was a halt at Kikoka; the fourth caravan, consisting solely
+      of Wanyamwezi, proving a sore obstacle to a rapid advance. Maganga, its
+      chief, devised several methods of extorting more cloth and presents from
+      me, he having cost already more than any three chiefs together; but his
+      efforts were of no avail further than obtaining promises of reward if he
+      would hurry on to Unyanyembe so that I might find my road clear.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 2(7?)th, the Wanyamwezi having started, we broke camp soon after at
+      7 am. The country was of the same nature as that lying between the Kingani
+      and Kikokaa park land, attractive and beautiful in every feature.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I rode in advance to secure meat should a chance present itself, but not
+      the shadow of vert or venison did I see. Ever in our front&mdash;westerly&mdash;rolled
+      the land-waves, now rising, now subsiding, parallel one with the other,
+      like a ploughed field many times magnified. Each ridge had its knot of
+      jungle or its thin combing of heavily foliaged trees, until we arrived
+      close to Rosako, our next halting place, when the monotonous wavure of the
+      land underwent a change, breaking into independent hummocks clad with
+      dense jungle. On one of these, veiled by an impenetrable jungle of thorny
+      acacia, rested Rosako; girt round by its natural fortification,
+      neighbouring another village to the north of it similarly protected.
+      Between them sank a valley extremely fertile and bountiful in its
+      productions, bisected by a small stream, which serves as a drain to the
+      valley or low hills surrounding it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rosako is the frontier village of Ukwere, while Kikoka is the
+      north-western extremity of Uzaramo. We entered this village, and occupied
+      its central portion with our tents and animals. A kitanda, or square light
+      bedstead, without valance, fringe, or any superfluity whatever, but
+      nevertheless quite as comfortable as with them, was brought to my tent for
+      my use by the village chief. The animals were, immediately after being
+      unloaded, driven out to feed, and the soldiers to a man set to work to
+      pile the baggage up, lest the rain, which during the Masika season always
+      appears imminent, might cause irreparable damage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among other experiments which I was about to try in Africa was that of a
+      good watch-dog on any unmannerly people who would insist upon coming into
+      my tent at untimely hours and endangering valuables. Especially did I wish
+      to try the effect of its bark on the mighty Wagogo, who, I was told by
+      certain Arabs, would lift the door of the tent and enter whether you
+      wished them or not; who would chuckle at the fear they inspired, and say
+      to you, "Hi, hi, white man, I never saw the like of you before; are there
+      many more like you? where do you come from?" Also would they take hold of
+      your watch and ask you with a cheerful curiosity, "What is this for, white
+      man?" to which you of course would reply that it was to tell you the hour
+      and minute. But the Mgogo, proud of his prowess, and more unmannerly than
+      a brute, would answer you with a snort of insult. I thought of a
+      watch-dog, and procured a good one at Bombay not only as a faithful
+      companion, but to threaten the heels of just such gentry.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But soon after our arrival at Rosako it was found that the dog, whose name
+      was "Omar," given him from his Turkish origin, was missing; he had strayed
+      away from the soldiers during a rain-squall and had got lost. I despatched
+      Mabruki Burton back to Kikoka to search for him. On the following morning,
+      just as we were about to leave Rosako, the faithful fellow returned with
+      the lost dog, having found him at Kikoka.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Previous to our departure on the morning after this, Maganga, chief of the
+      fourth caravan, brought me the unhappy report that three of his pagazis
+      were sick, and he would like to have some "dowa"&mdash;medicine. Though
+      not a doctor, or in any way connected with the profession, I had a
+      well-supplied medicine chest&mdash;without which no traveller in Africa
+      could live&mdash;for just such a contingency as was now present. On
+      visiting Maganga's sick men, I found one suffering from inflammation of
+      the lungs, another from the mukunguru (African intermittent). They all
+      imagined themselves about to die, and called loudly for "Mama!" "Mama!"
+      though they were all grown men. It was evident that the fourth caravan
+      could not stir that day, so leaving word with Magauga to hurry after me as
+      soon as possible, I issued orders for the march of my own.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Excepting in the neighbourhood of the villages which we have passed there
+      were no traces of cultivation. The country extending between the several
+      stations is as much a wilderness as the desert of Sahara, though it
+      possesses a far more pleasing aspect. Indeed, had the first man at the
+      time of the Creation gazed at his world and perceived it of the beauty
+      which belongs to this part of Africa, he would have had no cause of
+      complaint. In the deep thickets, set like islets amid a sea of grassy
+      verdure, he would have found shelter from the noonday heat, and a safe
+      retirement for himself and spouse during the awesome darkness. In the
+      morning he could have walked forth on the sloping sward, enjoyed its
+      freshness, and performed his ablutions in one of the many small streams
+      flowing at its foot. His garden of fruit-trees is all that is required;
+      the noble forests, deep and cool, are round about him, and in their shade
+      walk as many animals as one can desire. For days and days let a man walk
+      in any direction, north, south, east, and west, and he will behold the
+      same scene.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Earnestly as I wished to hurry on to Unyanyembe, still a heart-felt
+      anxiety about the arrival of my goods carried by the fourth caravan,
+      served as a drag upon me and before my caravan had marched nine miles my
+      anxiety had risen to the highest pitch, and caused me to order a camp
+      there and then. The place selected for it was near a long straggling
+      sluice, having an abundance of water during the rainy season, draining as
+      it does two extensive slopes. No sooner had we pitched our camp, built a
+      boma of thorny acacia, and other tree branches, by stacking them round our
+      camp, and driven our animals to grass; than we were made aware of the
+      formidable number and variety of the insect tribe, which for a time was
+      another source of anxiety, until a diligent examination of the several
+      species dispelled it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As it was a most interesting hunt which I instituted for the several
+      specimens of the insects, I here append the record of it for what it is
+      worth. My object in obtaining these specimens was to determine whether the
+      genus <i>Glossina morsitans</i> of the naturalist, or the tsetse
+      (sometimes called setse) of Livingstone, Vardon, and Gumming, said to be
+      deadly to horses, was amongst them. Up to this date I had been nearly two
+      months in East Africa, and had as yet seen no tsetse; and my horses,
+      instead of becoming emaciated&mdash;for such is one of the symptoms of a
+      tsetse bite&mdash;had considerably improved in condition. There were three
+      different species of flies which sought shelter in my tent, which,
+      unitedly, kept up a continual chorus of sounds&mdash;one performed the
+      basso profondo, another a tenor, and the third a weak contralto. The first
+      emanated from a voracious and fierce fly, an inch long, having a ventral
+      capacity for blood quite astonishing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This larger fly was the one chosen for the first inspection, which was of
+      the intensest. I permitted one to alight on my flannel pyjamas, which I
+      wore while en deshabille in camp. No sooner had he alighted than his
+      posterior was raised, his head lowered, and his weapons, consisting of
+      four hair-like styles, unsheathed from the proboscis-like bag which
+      concealed them, and immediately I felt pain like that caused by a
+      dexterous lancet-cut or the probe of a fine needle. I permitted him to
+      gorge himself, though my patience and naturalistic interest were sorely
+      tried. I saw his abdominal parts distend with the plenitude of the repast
+      until it had swollen to three times its former shrunken girth, when he
+      flew away of his own accord laden with blood. On rolling up my flannel
+      pyjamas to see the fountain whence the fly had drawn the fluid, I
+      discovered it to be a little above the left knee, by a crimson bead
+      resting over the incision. After wiping the blood the wound was similar to
+      that caused by a deep thrust of a fine needle, but all pain had vanished
+      with the departure of the fly.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having caught a specimen of this fly, I next proceeded to institute a
+      comparison between it and the tsetse, as described by Dr. Livingstone on
+      pp. 56-57, 'Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa' (Murray's
+      edition of 1868). The points of disagreement are many, and such as to make
+      it entirely improbable that this fly is the true tsetse, though my men
+      unanimously stated that its bite was fatal to horses as well as to
+      donkeys. A descriptive abstract of the tsetse would read thus: "Not much
+      larger than a common house-fly, nearly of the same brown colour as the
+      honey-bee. After-part of the body has yellow bars across it. It has a
+      peculiar buzz, and its bite is death to the horse, ox, and dog. On man the
+      bite has no effect, neither has it on wild animals. When allowed to feed
+      on the hand, it inserts the middle prong of three portions into which the
+      proboscis divides, it then draws the prong out a little way, and it
+      assumes a crimson colour as the mandibles come into brisk operation; a
+      slight itching irritation follows the bite."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The fly which I had under inspection is called mabunga by the natives. It
+      is much larger than the common housefly, fully a third larger than the
+      common honey-bee, and its colour more distinctly marked; its head is
+      black, with a greenish gloss to it; the after-part of the body is marked
+      by a white line running lengthwise from its junction with the trunk, and
+      on each side of this white line are two other lines, one of a crimson
+      colour, the other of a light brown. As for its buzz, there is no
+      peculiarity in it, it might be mistaken for that of a honey-bee. When
+      caught it made desperate efforts to get away, but never attempted to bite.
+      This fly, along with a score of others, attacked my grey horse, and bit it
+      so sorely in the legs that they appeared as if bathed in blood. Hence, I
+      might have been a little vengeful if, with more than the zeal of an
+      entomologist, I caused it to disclose whatever peculiarities its biting
+      parts possessed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In order to bring this fly as life-like as possible before my readers, I
+      may compare its head to most tiny miniature of an elephant's, because it
+      has a black proboscis and a pair of horny antennae, which in colour and
+      curve resemble tusks. The black proboscis, however, the simply a hollow
+      sheath, which encloses, when not in the act of biting, four reddish and
+      sharp lancets. Under the microscope these four lancets differ in
+      thickness, two are very thick, the third is slender, but the fourth, of an
+      opal colour and almost transparent, is exceedingly fine. This last must be
+      the sucker. When the fly is about to wound, the two horny antennae are
+      made to embrace the part, the lancets are unsheathed, and on the instant
+      the incision is performed. This I consider to be the African "horse-fly."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The second fly, which sang the tenor notes more nearly resembled in size
+      and description the tsetse. It was exceedingly nimble, and it occupied
+      three soldiers nearly an hour to capture a specimen; and, when it was
+      finally caught, it stung most ravenously the hand, and never ceased its
+      efforts to attack until it was pinned through. It had three or four white
+      marks across the after-part of its body; but the biting parts of this fly
+      consisted of two black antennae and an opal coloured style, which folded
+      away under the neck. When about to bite, this style was shot out straight,
+      and the antennae embraced it closely. After death the fly lost its
+      distinctive white marks. Only one of this species did we see at this camp.
+      The third fly, called "chufwa," pitched a weak alto-crescendo note, was a
+      third larger than the house fly, and had long wings. If this insect sang
+      the feeblest note, it certainly did the most work, and inflicted the most
+      injury. Horses and donkeys streamed with blood, and reared and kicked
+      through the pain. So determined was it not to be driven before it obtained
+      its fill, that it was easily despatched; but this dreadful enemy to cattle
+      constantly increased in numbers. The three species above named are,
+      according to natives, fatal to cattle; and this may perhaps be the reason
+      why such a vast expanse of first-class pasture is without domestic cattle
+      of any kind, a few goats only being kept by the villagers. This fly I
+      subsequently found to be the "tsetse."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the second morning, instead of proceeding, I deemed it more prudent to
+      await the fourth caravan. Burton experimented sufficiently for me on the
+      promised word of the Banyans of Kaole and Zanzibar, and waited eleven
+      months before he received the promised articles. As I did not expect to be
+      much over that time on my errand altogether, it would be ruin, absolute
+      and irremediable, should I be detained at Unyanyembe so long a time by my
+      caravan. Pending its arrival, I sought the pleasures of the chase. I was
+      but a tyro in hunting, I confess, though I had shot a little on the plains
+      of America and Persia; yet I considered myself a fair shot, and on game
+      ground, and within a reasonable proximity to game, I doubted not but I
+      could bring some to camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a march of a mile through the tall grass of the open, we gained the
+      glades between the jungles. Unsuccessful here, after ever so much prying
+      into fine hiding-places and lurking corners, I struck a trail well
+      traversed by small antelope and hartebeest, which we followed. It led me
+      into a jungle, and down a watercourse bisecting it; but, after following
+      it for an hour, I lost it, and, in endeavouring to retrace it, lost my
+      way. However, my pocket-compass stood me in good stead; and by it I
+      steered for the open plain, in the centre of which stood the camp. But it
+      was terribly hard work&mdash;this of plunging through an African jungle,
+      ruinous to clothes, and trying to the cuticle. In order to travel quickly,
+      I had donned a pair of flannel pyjamas, and my feet were encased in canvas
+      shoes. As might be expected, before I had gone a few paces a branch of the
+      acacia horrida&mdash;only one of a hundred such annoyances&mdash;caught
+      the right leg of my pyjamas at the knee, and ripped it almost clean off;
+      succeeding which a stumpy kolquall caught me by the shoulder, and another
+      rip was the inevitable consequence. A few yards farther on, a prickly
+      aloetic plant disfigured by a wide tear the other leg of my pyjamas, and
+      almost immediately I tripped against a convolvulus strong as ratline, and
+      was made to measure my length on a bed of thorns. It was on all fours,
+      like a hound on a scent, that I was compelled to travel; my solar topee
+      getting the worse for wear every minute; my skin getting more and more
+      wounded; my clothes at each step becoming more and more tattered. Besides
+      these discomforts, there was a pungent, acrid plant which, apart from its
+      strong odorous emissions, struck me smartly on the face, leaving a burning
+      effect similar to cayenne; and the atmosphere, pent in by the density of
+      the jungle, was hot and stifling, and the perspiration transuded through
+      every pore, making my flannel tatters feel as if I had been through a
+      shower. When I had finally regained the plain, and could breathe free, I
+      mentally vowed that the penetralia of an African jungle should not be
+      visited by me again, save under most urgent necessity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The second and third day passed without any news of Maganga. Accordingly,
+      Shaw and Bombay were sent to hurry him up by all means. On the fourth
+      morning Shaw and Bombay returned, followed by the procrastinating Maganga
+      and his laggard people. Questions only elicited an excuse that his men had
+      been too sick, and he had feared to tax their strength before they were
+      quite equal to stand the fatigue. Moreover he suggested that as they would
+      be compelled to stay one day more at the camp, I might push on to Kingaru
+      and camp there, until his arrival. Acting upon which suggestion I broke
+      camp and started for Kingaru, distant five miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On this march the land was more broken, and the caravan first encountered
+      jungle, which gave considerable trouble to our cart. Pisolitic limestone
+      cropped out in boulders and sheets, and we began to imagine ourselves
+      approaching healthy highlands, and as if to give confirmation to the
+      thought, to the north and north-west loomed the purple cones of Udoe, and
+      topmost of all Dilima Peak, about 1,500 feet in height above the sea
+      level. But soon after sinking into a bowl-like valley, green with tall
+      corn, the road slightly deviated from north-west to west, the country
+      still rolling before us in wavy undulations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In one of the depressions between these lengthy land-swells stood the
+      village of Kingaru, with surroundings significant in their aspect of ague
+      and fever. Perhaps the clouds surcharged with rain, and the overhanging
+      ridges and their dense forests dulled by the gloom, made the place more
+      than usually disagreeable, but my first impressions of the sodden hollow,
+      pent in by those dull woods, with the deep gully close by containing pools
+      of stagnant water, were by no means agreeable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Before we could arrange our camp and set the tents up, down poured the
+      furious harbinger of the Masika season in torrents sufficient to damp the
+      ardor and newborn love for East Africa I had lately manifested. However,
+      despite rain, we worked on until our camp was finished and the property
+      was safely stored from weather and thieves, and we could regard with
+      resignation the raindrops beating the soil into mud of a very tenacious
+      kind, and forming lakelets and rivers of our camp-ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Towards night, the scene having reached its acme of unpleasantness, the
+      rain ceased, and the natives poured into camp from the villages in the
+      woods with their vendibles. Foremost among these, as if in duty bound,
+      came the village sultan&mdash;lord, chief, or head&mdash;bearing three
+      measures of matama and half a measure of rice, of which he begged, with
+      paternal smiles, my acceptance. But under his smiling mask, bleared eyes,
+      and wrinkled front was visible the soul of trickery, which was of the
+      cunningest kind. Responding under the same mask adopted by this knavish
+      elder, I said, "The chief of Kingaru has called me a rich sultan. If I am
+      a rich sultan why comes not the chief with a rich present to me, that he
+      might get a rich return?" Said he, with another leer of his wrinkled
+      visage, "Kingaru is poor, there is no matama in the village." To which I
+      replied that since there was no matama in the village I would pay him half
+      a shukka, or a yard of cloth, which would be exactly equivalent to his
+      present; that if he preferred to call his small basketful a present, I
+      should be content to call my yard of cloth a present. With which logic he
+      was fain to be satisfied.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      April 1st.&mdash;To-day the Expedition suffered a loss in the death of the
+      grey Arab horse presented by Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar. The night
+      previous I had noticed that the horse was suffering. Bearing in mind what
+      has been so frequently asserted, namely, that no horses could live in the
+      interior of Africa because of the tsetse, I had him opened, and the
+      stomach, which I believed to be diseased, examined. Besides much
+      undigested matama and grass there were found twenty-five short, thick,
+      white worms, sticking like leeches into the coating of the stomach, while
+      the intestines were almost alive with the numbers of long white worms. I
+      was satisfied that neither man nor beast could long exist with such a mass
+      of corrupting life within him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In order that the dead carcase might not taint the valley, I had it buried
+      deep in the ground, about a score of yards from the encampment. From such
+      a slight cause ensued a tremendous uproar from Kingaru&mdash;chief of the
+      village&mdash;who, with his brother-chiefs of neighbouring villages,
+      numbering in the aggregate two dozen wattled huts, had taken counsel upon
+      the best means of mulcting the Musungu of a full doti or two of Merikani,
+      and finally had arrived at the conviction that the act of burying a dead
+      horse in their soil without "By your leave, sir," was a grievous and
+      fineable fault. Affecting great indignation at the unpardonable omission,
+      he, Kingaru, concluded to send to the Musungu four of his young men to say
+      to him that "since you have buried your horse in my ground, it is well;
+      let him remain there; but you must pay me two doti of Merikani." For reply
+      the messengers were told to say to the chief that I would prefer talking
+      the matter over with himself face to face, if he would condescend to visit
+      me in my tent once again. As the village was but a stone's throw from our
+      encampment, before many minutes had elapsed the wrinkled elder made his
+      appearance at the door of my tent with about half the village behind him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The following dialogue which took place will serve to illustrate the
+      tempers of the people with whom I was about to have a year's trading
+      intercourse:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      White Man.&mdash;"Are you the great chief of Kingaru?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kingaru.&mdash;"Huh-uh. Yes."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      W. M.&mdash;"The great, great chief?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kingaru.&mdash;"Huh-uh. Yes."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      W. M.&mdash;"How many soldiers have you?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kingaru.&mdash;" Why?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      W. M.&mdash;"How many fighting men have you?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kingaru.&mdash;"None."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      W. M.&mdash;"Oh! I thought you might have a thousand men with you, by your
+      going to fine a strong white man, who has plenty of guns and soldiers, two
+      doti for burying a dead horse."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kingaru (rather perplexed).&mdash;"No; I have no soldiers. I have only a
+      few young men."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      W. M.&mdash;"Why do you come and make trouble, then?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kingaru.&mdash;"It was not I; it was my brothers who said to me, 'Come
+      here, come here, Kingaru, see what the white man has done! Has he not
+      taken possession of your soil, in that he has put his horse into your
+      ground without your permission? Come, go to him and see by what right.'
+      Therefore have I come to ask you, who gave you permission to use my soil
+      for a burying-ground?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      W. M. "I want no man's permission to do what is right. My horse died; had
+      I left him to fester and stink in your valley, sickness would visit your
+      village, your water would become unwholesome, and caravans would not stop
+      here for trade; for they would say, 'This is an unlucky spot, let us go
+      away.' But enough said: I understand you to say that you do not want him
+      buried in your ground; the error I have fallen into is easily put right.
+      This minute my soldiers shall dig him out again, and cover up the soil as
+      it was before; and the horse shall be left where he died." (Then shouting
+      to Bombay.) "Ho! Bombay, take soldiers with jembes to dig my horse out of
+      the ground, drag him to where he died, and make everything ready for a
+      march to-morrow morning."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kingaru, his voice considerably higher, and his head moving to and fro
+      with emotion, cries out, "Akuna, akuna, bana!"&mdash;"No, no, master! Let
+      not the white man get angry. The horse is dead, and now lies buried; let
+      him remain so, since he is already there, and let us be friends again."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Sheikh of Kingaru being thus brought to his senses, we bid each other
+      the friendly "Kwaheri," and I was left alone to ruminate over my loss.
+      Barely half an hour had elapsed, it was 9 P.M., the camp was in a
+      semi-doze, when I heard deep groans issuing from one of the animals. Upon
+      inquiry as to what animal was suffering, I was surprised to hear that it
+      was my bay horse. With a bull's-eye lantern, I visited him, and perceived
+      that the pain was located in the stomach, but whether it was from some
+      poisonous plant he had eaten while out grazing, or from some equine
+      disease, I did not know. He discharged copious quantities of loose matter,
+      but there was nothing peculiar in its colour. The pain was evidently very
+      great, for his struggles were very violent. I was up all night, hoping
+      that it was but a temporary effect of some strange and noxious plant; but
+      at 6 o'clock the next morning, after a short period of great agony, he
+      also died; exactly fifteen hours after his companion. When the stomach was
+      opened, it was found that death was caused by the internal rupture of a
+      large cancer, which had affected the larger half of the coating of his
+      stomach, and had extended an inch or two up the larynx. The contents of
+      the stomach and intestines were deluged with the yellow viscous efflux
+      from the cancer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was thus deprived of both my horses, and that within the short space of
+      fifteen hours. With my limited knowledge of veterinary science, however,
+      strengthened by the actual and positive proofs obtained by the dissection
+      of the two stomachs, I can scarcely state that horses can live to reach
+      Unyanyembe, or that they can travel with ease through this part of East
+      Africa. But should I have occasion at some future day, I should not
+      hesitate to take four horses with me, though I should certainly endeavour
+      to ascertain previous to purchase whether they, were perfectly sound and
+      healthy, and to those travellers who cherish a good horse I would say,
+      "Try one," and be not discouraged by my unfortunate experiences.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd of April passed, and nothing had we heard or seen of
+      the ever-lagging fourth caravan. In the meanwhile the list of casualties
+      was being augmented. Besides the loss of this precious time, through the
+      perverseness of the chief of the other caravan, and the loss of my two
+      horses, a pagazi carrying boat-fixtures improved the opportunity, and
+      deserted. Selim was struck down with a severe attack of ague and fever,
+      and was soon after followed by the cook, then by the assistant cook and
+      tailor, Abdul Kader. Finally, before the third day was over, Bombay had
+      rheumatism, Uledi (Grant's old valet) had a swollen throat, Zaidi had the
+      flux, Kingaru had the mukunguru; Khamisi, a pagazi, suffered from a
+      weakness of the loins; Farjalla had a bilious fever; and before night
+      closed Makoviga was very ill. Out of a force of twenty-five men one had
+      deserted, and ten were on the sick list, and the presentiment that the
+      ill-looking neighbourhood of Kingaru would prove calamitous to me was
+      verified.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 4th April Maganga and his people appeared, after being heralded by
+      musketry-shots and horn-blowing, the usual signs of an approaching caravan
+      in this land. His sick men were considerably improved, but they required
+      one more day of rest at Kingaru. In the afternoon he came to lay siege to
+      my generosity, by giving details of Soor Hadji Palloo's heartless cheats
+      upon him; but I informed him, that since I had left Bagamoyo, I could no
+      longer be generous; we were now in a land where cloth was at a high
+      premium; that I had no more cloth than I should need to furnish food for
+      myself and men; that he and his caravan had cost me more money and trouble
+      than any three caravans I had, as indeed was the case. With this
+      counter-statement he was obliged to be content. But I again solved his
+      pecuniary doubts by promising that, if he hurried his caravan on to
+      Unyanyembe, he should have no cause of complaint.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The 5th of April saw the fourth caravan vanish for once in our front, with
+      a fair promise that, however fast we should follow, we should not see them
+      the hither side of Sinbamwenni.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The following morning, in order to rouse my people from the sickened
+      torpitude they had lapsed into, I beat an exhilarating alarum on a tin pan
+      with an iron ladle, intimating that a sofari was about to be undertaken.
+      This had a very good effect, judging from the extraordinary alacrity with
+      which it was responded to. Before the sun rose we started. The Kingaru
+      villagers were out with the velocity of hawks for any rags or refuse left
+      behind us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The long march to Imbiki, fifteen miles, proved that our protracted stay
+      at Kingaru had completely demoralized my soldiers and pagazis. Only a few
+      of them had strength enough to reach Imbiki before night. The others,
+      attending the laden donkeys, put in an appearance next morning, in a
+      lamentable state of mind and body. Khamisi&mdash;the pagazi with the weak
+      loins&mdash;had deserted, taking with him two goats, the property tent,
+      and the whole of Uledi's personal wealth, consisting of his visiting
+      dish-dasheh&mdash;a long shirt of the Arabic pattern, 10 lbs. of beads,
+      and a few fine cloths, which Uledi, in a generous fit, had intrusted to
+      him, while he carried the pagazi's load, 70 lbs. of Bubu beads. This
+      defalcation was not to be overlooked, nor should Khamisi be permitted to
+      return without an effort to apprehend him. Accordingly Uledi and Ferajji
+      were despatched in pursuit while we rested at Imbiki, in order to give the
+      dilapidated soldiers and animals time to recruit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 8th we continued our journey, and arrived at Msuwa. This march will
+      be remembered by our caravan as the most fatiguing of all, though the
+      distance was but ten miles. It was one continuous jungle, except three
+      interjacent glades of narrow limits, which gave us three breathing pauses
+      in the dire task of jungle travelling. The odour emitted from its fell
+      plants was so rank, so pungently acrid, and the miasma from its decayed
+      vegetation so dense, that I expected every moment to see myself and men
+      drop down in paroxysms of acute fever. Happily this evil was not added to
+      that of loading and unloading the frequently falling packs. Seven soldiers
+      to attend seventeen laden donkeys were entirely too small a number while
+      passing through a jungle; for while the path is but a foot wide, with a
+      wall of thorny plants and creepers bristling on each side, and projecting
+      branches darting across it, with knots of spikey twigs stiff as
+      spike-nails, ready to catch and hold anything above four feet in height,
+      it is but reasonable to suppose that donkeys standing four feet high, with
+      loads measuring across from bale to bale four feet, would come to grief.
+      This grief was of frequent recurrence here, causing us to pause every few
+      minutes for re-arrangements. So often had this task to be performed, that
+      the men got perfectly discouraged, and had to bespoken to sharply before
+      they set to work. By the time I reached Msuwa there was nobody with me and
+      the ten donkeys I drove but Mabruk the Little, who, though generally
+      stolid, stood to his work like a man. Bombay and Uledi were far behind,
+      with the most jaded donkeys. Shaw was in charge of the cart, and his
+      experiences were most bitter, as he informed me he had expended a whole
+      vocabulary of stormy abuse known to sailors, and a new one which he had
+      invented ex tempore. He did not arrive until two o'clock next morning, and
+      was completely worn out.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another halt was fixed at Msuwa, that we and our animals might recuperate.
+      The chief of the village, a white man in everything but colour, sent me
+      and mine the fattest broad-tailed sheep of his flock, with five measures
+      of matama grain. The mutton was excellent, unapproachable. For his timely
+      and needful present I gave him two doti, and amused him with an exhibition
+      of the wonderful mechanism of the Winchester rifle, and my breechloading
+      revolvers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He and his people were intelligent enough to comprehend the utility of
+      these weapons at an emergency, and illustrated in expressive pantomime the
+      powers they possessed against numbers of people armed only with spears and
+      bows, by extending their arms with an imaginary gun and describing a clear
+      circle. "Verily," said they, "the Wasungu are far wiser than the Washensi.
+      What heads they have! What wonderful things they make! Look at their
+      tents, their guns, their time-pieces, their clothes, and that little
+      rolling thing (the cart) which carries more than five men,&mdash;-que!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 10th, recovered from the excessive strain of the last march, the
+      caravan marched out of Msuwa, accompanied by the hospitable villagers as
+      far as their stake defence, receiving their unanimous "Kwaheris." Outside
+      the village the march promised to be less arduous than between Imbiki and
+      Msuwa. After crossing a beautiful little plain intersected by a dry gully
+      or mtoni, the route led by a few cultivated fields, where the tillers
+      greeted us with one grand unwinking stare, as if fascinated.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Soon after we met one of those sights common in part of the world, to wit
+      a chain slave-gang, bound east. The slaves did not appear to be in any way
+      down-hearted on the contrary, they seemed imbued with the philosophic
+      jollity of the jolly servant of Martin Chuzzlewit. Were it not for their
+      chains, it would have been difficult to discover master from slave; the
+      physiognomic traits were alike&mdash;the mild benignity with which we were
+      regarded was equally visible on all faces. The chains were ponderous&mdash;they
+      might have held elephants captive; but as the slaves carried nothing but
+      themselves, their weight could not have been insupportable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The jungle was scant on this march, and though in some places the packs
+      met with accidents, they were not such as seriously to retard progress. By
+      10 A.M. we were in camp in the midst of an imposing view of green sward
+      and forest domed by a cloudless sky. We had again pitched our camp in the
+      wilderness, and, as is the custom of caravans, fired two shots to warn any
+      Washensi having grain to sell, that we were willing to trade.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our next halting-place was Kisemo, distant but eleven miles from Msuwa, a
+      village situated in a populous district, having in its vicinity no less
+      than five other villages, each fortified by stakes and thorny abattis,
+      with as much fierce independence as if their petty lords were so many
+      Percys and Douglasses. Each topped a ridge, or a low hummock, with an
+      assumption of defiance of the cock-on-its-own-dunghill type. Between these
+      humble eminences and low ridges of land wind narrow vales which are
+      favored with the cultivation of matama and Indian corn. Behind the village
+      flows the Ungerengeri River, an impetuous stream during the Masika season,
+      capable of overflowing its steep banks, but in the dry season it subsides
+      into its proper status, which is that of a small stream of very clear
+      sweet water. Its course from Kisemo is south-west, then easterly; it is
+      the main feeder of the Kingani River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The belles of Kisemo are noted for their vanity in brass wire, which is
+      wound in spiral rings round their wrists and ankles, and the varieties of
+      style which their hispid heads exhibit; while their poor lords, obliged to
+      be contented with dingy torn clouts and split ears, show what wide sway
+      Asmodeus holds over this terrestrial sphere&mdash;for it must have been an
+      unhappy time when the hard-besieged husbands finally gave way before their
+      spouses. Besides these brassy ornaments on their extremities, and the
+      various hair-dressing styles, the women of Kisemo frequently wear lengthy
+      necklaces, which run in rivers of colours down their bodies.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A more comical picture is seldom presented than that of one of these
+      highly-dressed females engaged in the homely and necessary task of
+      grinding corn for herself and family. The grinding apparatus consists of
+      two portions: one, a thick pole of hard wood about six feet long,
+      answering for a pestle; the other, a capacious wooden mortar, three feet
+      in height.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While engaged in setting his tent, Shaw was obliged to move a small flat
+      stone, to drive a peg into the ground. The village chief, who saw him do
+      it, rushed up in a breathless fashion, and replaced the stone instantly,
+      then stood on it in an impressive manner, indicative of the great
+      importance attached to that stone and location. Bombay, seeing Shaw
+      standing in silent wonder at the act, volunteered to ask the chief what
+      was the matter. The Sheikh solemnly answered, with a finger pointing
+      downward, "Uganga!" Whereupon I implored him to let me see what was under
+      the stone. With a graciousness quite affecting he complied. My curiosity
+      was gratified with the sight of a small whittled stick, which pinned fast
+      to the ground an insect, the cause of a miscarriage to a young female of
+      the village.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During the afternoon, Uledi and Ferajji, who had been despatched after the
+      truant Khamisi, returned with him and all the missing articles. Khamisi,
+      soon after leaving the road and plunging into the jungle, where he was
+      mentally triumphing in his booty, was met by some of the plundering
+      Washensi, who are always on the qui vive for stragglers, and
+      unceremoniously taken to their village in the woods, and bound to a tree
+      preparatory, to being killed. Khamisi said that he asked them why they
+      tied him up, to which they answered, that they were about to kill him,
+      because he was a Mgwana, whom they were accustomed to kill as soon as they
+      were caught. But Uledi and Ferajji shortly after coming upon the scene,
+      both well armed, put an end to the debates upon Khamisi's fate, by
+      claiming him as an absconding pagazi from the Musungu's camp, as well as
+      all the articles he possessed at the time of capture. The robbers did not
+      dispute the claim for the pagazi, goats, tent, or any other valuable found
+      with him, but intimated that they deserved a reward for apprehending him.
+      The demand being considered just, a reward to the extent of two doti and a
+      fundo, or ten necklaces of beads, was given.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Khamisi, for his desertion and attempted robbery, could not be pardoned
+      without first suffering punishment. He had asked at Bagamoyo, before
+      enlisting in my service, an advance of $5 in money, and had received it,
+      and a load of Bubu beads, no heavier than a pagazis load, had been given
+      him to carry; he had, therefore, no excuse for desertion. Lest I should
+      overstep prudence, however, in punishing him, I convened a court of eight
+      pagazis and four soldiers to sit in judgment, and asked them to give me
+      their decision as to what should be done. Their unanimous verdict was that
+      he was guilty of a crime almost unknown among the Wanyamwezi pagazis, and
+      as it was likely to give bad repute to the Wanyamwezi carriers, they
+      therefore sentenced him to be flogged with the "Great Master's" donkey
+      whip, which was accordingly carried out, to poor Khamisi's crying sorrow.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 12th the caravan reached Mussoudi, on the Ungerengeri river.
+      Happily for our patient donkeys this march was free from all the annoying
+      troubles of the jungle. Happily for ourselves also, for we had no more the
+      care of the packs and the anxiety about arriving at camp before night. The
+      packs once put firmly on the backs of our good donkeys, they marched into
+      camp&mdash;the road being excellent&mdash;without a single displacement or
+      cause for one impatient word, soon after leaving Kisemo. A beautiful
+      prospect, glorious in its wild nature, fragrant with its numerous flowers
+      and variety of sweetly-smelling shrubs, among which I recognised the wild
+      sage, the indigo plant, &amp;c., terminated only at the foot of Kira Peak
+      and sister cones, which mark the boundaries between Udoe and Ukami, yet
+      distant twenty miles. Those distant mountains formed a not unfit
+      background to this magnificent picture of open plain, forest patches, and
+      sloping lawns&mdash;there was enough of picturesqueness and sublimity in
+      the blue mountains to render it one complete whole. Suppose a Byron saw
+      some of these scenes, he would be inclined to poetize in this manner:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Morn dawns, and with it stern Udoe's hills, Dark Urrugum's rocks, and
+      Kira's peak, Robed half in mist, bedewed with various rills, Arrayed in
+      many a dun and purple streak.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When drawing near the valley of Ungerengeri, granite knobs and
+      protuberances of dazzling quartz showed their heads above the reddish
+      soil. Descending the ridge where these rocks were prominent, we found
+      ourselves in the sable loam deposit of the Ungerengeri, and in the midst
+      of teeming fields of sugar-cane and matama, Indian corn, muhogo, and
+      gardens of curry, egg, and cucumber plants. On the banks of the
+      Ungerengeri flourished the banana, and overtopping it by seventy feet and
+      more, shot up the stately mparamusi, the rival in beauty of the Persian
+      chenar and Abyssinian plane. Its trunk is straight and comely enough for
+      the mainmast of a first, class frigate, while its expanding crown of
+      leafage is distinguished from all others by its density and vivid
+      greenness. There were a score of varieties of the larger kind of trees,
+      whose far-extending branches embraced across the narrow but swift river.
+      The depressions of the valley and the immediate neighbourhood of the river
+      were choked with young forests of tiger-grass and stiff reeds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mussoudi is situated on a higher elevation than the average level of the
+      village, and consequently looks down upon its neighbours, which number a
+      hundred and more. It is the western extremity of Ukwere. On the western
+      bank of the Ungerengeri the territory of the Wakami commences. We had to
+      halt one day at Mussoudi because the poverty of the people prevented us
+      from procuring the needful amount of grain. The cause of this scantiness
+      in such a fertile and populous valley was, that the numerous caravans
+      which had preceded us had drawn heavily for their stores for the
+      upmarches.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 14th we crossed the Ungerengeri, which here flows southerly to the
+      southern extremity of the valley, where it bends easterly as far as
+      Kisemo. After crossing the river here, fordable at all times and only
+      twenty yards in breadth, we had another mile of the valley with its
+      excessively moist soil and rank growth of grass. It then ascended into a
+      higher elevation, and led through a forest of mparamusi, tamarind,
+      tamarisk, acacia, and the blooming mimosa. This ascent was continued for
+      two hours, when we stood upon the spine of the largest ridge, where we
+      could obtain free views of the wooded plain below and the distant ridges
+      of Kisemo, which we had but lately left. A descent of a few hundred feet
+      terminated in a deep but dry mtoni with a sandy bed, on the other side of
+      which we had to regain the elevation we had lost, and a similar country
+      opened into view until we found a newly-made boma with well-built huts of
+      grass rear a pool of water, which we at once occupied as a halting-place
+      for the night. The cart gave us considerable trouble; not even our
+      strongest donkey, though it carried with ease on its back 196 lbs., could
+      draw the cart with a load of only 225 lbs. weight.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Early on the morning of the 15th we broke camp and started for Mikeseh. By
+      8.30 A.M. we were ascending the southern face of the Kira Peak. When we
+      had gained the height of two hundred feet above the level of the
+      surrounding country, we were gratified with a magnificent view of a land
+      whose soil knows no Sabbath.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After travelling the spine of a ridge abutting against the southern slope
+      of Kira we again descended into the little valley of Kiwrima, the first
+      settlement we meet in Udoe, where there is always an abundant supply of
+      water. Two miles west of Kiwrima is Mikiseh.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 16th we reached Ulagalla after a few hours' march. Ulagalla is the
+      name of a district, or a portion of a district, lying between the
+      mountains of Uruguru, which bound it southerly, and the mountains of Udoe,
+      lying northerly and parallel with them, and but ten miles apart. The
+      principal part of the basin thus formed is called Ulagalla.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Muhalleh is the next settlement, and here we found ourselves in the
+      territory of the Waseguhha. On this march we were hemmed in by mountains&mdash;on
+      our left by those of Uruguru, on our right by those of Udoe and Useguhha&mdash;a
+      most agreeable and welcome change to us after the long miles of monotonous
+      level we had hitherto seen. When tired of looking into the depths of the
+      forest that still ran on either side of the road, we had but to look up to
+      the mountain's base, to note its strange trees, its plants and
+      vari-coloured flowers, we had but to raise our heads to vary this pleasant
+      occupation by observing the lengthy and sinuous spine of the mountains,
+      and mentally report upon their outline, their spurs, their projections and
+      ravines, their bulging rocks and deep clefts, and, above all, the dark
+      green woods clothing them from summit to base. And when our attention was
+      not required for the mundane task of regarding the donkeys' packs, or the
+      pace of the cautious-stepping pagazis, it was gratifying to watch the
+      vapours play about the mountain summits&mdash;to see them fold into fleecy
+      crowns and fantastic clusters, dissolve, gather together into a pall that
+      threatened rain, and sail away again before the brightening sun.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Muhalleh was the fourth caravan under Maganga with three more sick men,
+      who turned with eager eyes to myself, "the dispenser of medicine," as I
+      approached. Salvos of small arms greeted me, and a present of rice and
+      ears of Indian corn for roasting were awaiting my acceptance; but, as I
+      told Maganga, I would have preferred to hear that his party were eight or
+      ten marches ahead. At this camp, also, we met Salim bin Rashid, bound
+      eastward, with a huge caravan carrying three hundred ivory tusks. This
+      good Arab, besides welcoming the new comer with a present of rice, gave me
+      news of Livingstone. He had met the old traveller at Ujiji, had lived in
+      the next but to him for two weeks, described him as looking old, with long
+      grey moustaches and beard, just recovered from severe illness, looking
+      very wan; when fully recovered Livingstone intended to visit a country
+      called Manyema by way of Marungu.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The valley of the Ungerengeri with Muhalleh exhibits wonderful fertility.
+      Its crops of matama were of the tallest, and its Indian corn would rival
+      the best crops ever seen in the Arkansas bottoms. The numerous
+      mountain-fed streams rendered the great depth of loam very sloppy, in
+      consequence of which several accidents occurred before we reached the
+      camp, such as wetting cloth, mildewing tea, watering sugar, and rusting
+      tools; but prompt attention to these necessary things saved us from
+      considerable loss.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There was a slight difference noticed in the demeanour and bearing of the
+      Waseguhha compared with the Wadoe, Wakami, and Wakwere heretofore seen.
+      There was none of that civility we had been until now pleased to note:
+      their express desire to barter was accompanied with insolent hints that we
+      ought to take their produce at their own prices. If we remonstrated they
+      became angry; retorting fiercely, impatient of opposition, they flew into
+      a passion, and were glib in threats. This strange conduct, so opposite to
+      that of the calm and gentle Wakwere, may be excellently illustrated by
+      comparing the manner of the hot-headed Greek with that of the cool and
+      collected German. Necessity compelled us to purchase eatables of them,
+      and, to the credit of the country and its productions, be it said, their
+      honey had the peculiar flavour of that of famed Hymettus.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Following the latitudinal valley of the Ungerengeri, within two hours on
+      the following morning we passed close under the wall of the capital of
+      Useguhha&mdash;Simbamwenni. The first view of the walled town at the
+      western foot of the Uruguru mountains, with its fine valley abundantly
+      beautiful, watered by two rivers, and several pellucid streams of water
+      distilled by the dew and cloud-enriched heights around, was one that we
+      did not anticipate to meet in Eastern Africa. In Mazanderan, Persia, such
+      a scene would have answered our expectations, but here it was totally
+      unexpected. The town may contain a population of 3,000, having about 1,000
+      houses; being so densely crowded, perhaps 5,000 would more closely
+      approximate. The houses in the town are eminently African, but of the best
+      type of construction. The fortifications are on an Arabic Persic model&mdash;combining
+      Arab neatness with Persian plan. Through a ride of 950 miles in Persia I
+      never met a town outside of the great cities better fortified than
+      Simbamwenni. In Persia the fortifications were of mud, even those of
+      Kasvin, Teheran, Ispahan, and Shiraz; those of Simbamwenni are of stone,
+      pierced with two rows of loopholes for musketry. The area of the town is
+      about half a square mile, its plan being quadrangular. Well-built towers
+      of stone guard each corner; four gates, one facing each cardinal point,
+      and set half way between the several towers, permit ingress and egress for
+      its inhabitants. The gates are closed with solid square doors made of
+      African teak, and carved with the infinitesimally fine and complicated
+      devices of the Arabs, from which I suspect that the doors were made either
+      at Zanzibar or on the coast, and conveyed to Simbamwenni plank by plank;
+      yet as there is much communication between Bagamoyo and Simbamwenni, it is
+      just possible that native artisans are the authors of this ornate
+      workmanship, as several doors chiselled and carved in the same manner,
+      though not quite so elaborately, were visible in the largest houses. The
+      palace of the Sultan is after the style of those on the coast, with long
+      sloping roof, wide eaves, and veranda in front.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Sultana is the eldest daughter of the famous Kisabengo, a name
+      infamous throughout the neighbouring countries of Udoe, Ukami, Ukwere,
+      Kingaru, Ukwenni, and Kiranga-Wanna, for his kidnapping propensities.
+      Kisabengo was another Theodore on a small scale. Sprung from humble
+      ancestry, he acquired distinction for his personal strength, his powers of
+      harangue, and his amusing and versatile address, by which he gained great
+      ascendency over fugitive slaves, and was chosen a leader among them.
+      Fleeing from justice, which awaited him at the hands of the Zanzibar
+      Sultan, he arrived in Ukami, which extended at that time from Ukwere to
+      Usagara, and here he commenced a career of conquest, the result of which
+      was the cession by the Wakami of an immense tract of fertile country, in
+      the valley of the Ungerengeri. On its most desirable site, with the river
+      flowing close under the walls, he built his capital, and called it
+      Simbamwenni, which means "The Lion," or the strongest, City. In old age
+      the successful robber and kidnapper changed his name of Kisabengo, which
+      had gained such a notoriety, to Simbamwenni, after his town; and when
+      dying, after desiring that his eldest daughter should succeed him, he
+      bestowed the name of the town upon her also, which name of Simbamwenni the
+      Sultana now retains and is known by.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While crossing a rapid stream, which, as I said before flowed close to the
+      walls, the inhabitants of Simbamwenni had a fine chance of gratifying
+      their curiosity of seeing the "Great Musungu," whose several caravans had
+      preceded him, and who unpardonably, because unlicensed, had spread a
+      report of his great wealth and power. I was thus the object of a universal
+      stare. At one time on the banks there were considerably over a thousand
+      natives going through the several tenses and moods of the verb "to stare,"
+      or exhibiting every phase of the substantive, viz.&mdash;the stare
+      peremptory, insolent, sly, cunning, modest, and casual. The warriors of
+      the Sultana, holding in one hand the spear, the bow, and sheaf or musket,
+      embraced with the other their respective friends, like so many models of
+      Nisus and Euryalus, Theseus and Pirithous, Damon and Pythias, or Achilles
+      and Patroclus, to whom they confidentially related their divers opinions
+      upon my dress and colour. The words "Musungu kuba" had as much charm for
+      these people as the music of the Pied Piper had for the rats of Hamelin,
+      since they served to draw from within the walls across their stream so
+      large a portion of the population; and when I continued the journey to the
+      Ungerengeri, distant four miles, I feared that the Hamelin catastrophe
+      might have to be repeated before I could rid myself of them. But
+      fortunately for my peace of mind, they finally proved vincible under the
+      hot sun, and the distance we had to go to camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As we were obliged to overhaul the luggage, and repair saddles, as well as
+      to doctor a few of the animals, whose backs had by this time become very
+      sore, I determined to halt here two days. Provisions were very plentiful
+      also at Simbamwenni, though comparatively dear.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the second day I was, for the first time, made aware that my
+      acclimatization in the ague-breeding swamps of Arkansas was powerless
+      against the mukunguru of East Africa. The premonitory symptoms of the
+      African type were felt in my system at 10 A.M. First, general lassitude
+      prevailed, with a disposition to drowsiness; secondly, came the spinal
+      ache which, commencing from the loins, ascended the vertebrae, and
+      extended around the ribs, until it reached the shoulders, where it settled
+      into a weary pain; thirdly came a chilliness over the whole body, which
+      was quickly followed by a heavy head, swimming eyes, and throbbing
+      temples, with vague vision, which distorted and transformed all objects of
+      sight. This lasted until 10 P.M., and the mukunguru left me, much
+      prostrated in strength.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The remedy, applied for three mornings in succession after the attack, was
+      such as my experience in Arkansas had taught me was the most powerful
+      corrective, viz., a quantum of fifteen grains of quinine, taken in three
+      doses of five grains each, every other hour from dawn to meridian&mdash;the
+      first dose to be taken immediately after the first effect of the purging
+      medicine taken at bedtime the night previous. I may add that this
+      treatment was perfectly successful in my case, and in all others which
+      occurred in my camp. After the mukunguru had declared itself, there was no
+      fear, with such a treatment of it, of a second attack, until at least some
+      days afterwards.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the third day the camp was visited by the ambassadors of Her Highness
+      the Sultana of Simbamwenni, who came as her representatives to receive the
+      tribute which she regards herself as powerful enough to enforce. But they,
+      as well as Madame Simbamwenni, were informed, that as we knew it was their
+      custom to charge owners of caravans but one tribute, and as they
+      remembered the Musungu (Farquhar) had paid already, it was not fair that I
+      should have to pay again. The ambassadors replied with a "Ngema" (very
+      well), and promised to carry my answer back to their mistress. Though it
+      was by no means "very well" in fact, as it will be seen in a subsequent
+      chapter how the female Simbamwenni took advantage of an adverse fortune
+      which befell me to pay herself. With this I close the chapter of incidents
+      experienced during our transit across the maritime region.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER VI. &mdash; TO UGOGO.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A valley of despond, and hot-bed of malaria.&mdash;Myriads of
+     vermin.&mdash;The Makata swamp.&mdash;A sorrowful experience catching
+     a deserter.&mdash;A far-embracing prospect.&mdash;Illness of William
+     Farquhar.-Lake Ugombo.&mdash;A land of promise.&mdash;The great
+     Kisesa.&mdash;The plague of earwigs.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The distance from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni we found to be 119 miles, and
+      was accomplished in fourteen marches. But these marches, owing to
+      difficulties arising from the Masika season, and more especially to the
+      lagging of the fourth caravan under Maganga, extended to twenty-nine days,
+      thus rendering our progress very slow indeed&mdash;but a little more than
+      four miles a-day. I infer, from what I have seen of the travelling, that
+      had I not been encumbered by the sick Wanyamwezi porters, I could have
+      accomplished the distance in sixteen days. For it was not the donkeys that
+      proved recreant to my confidence; they, poor animals, carrying a weight of
+      150 lbs. each, arrived at Simbamwenni in first-rate order; but it was
+      Maganga, composed of greed and laziness, and his weakly-bodied tribe, who
+      were ever falling sick. In dry weather the number of marches might have
+      been much reduced. Of the half-dozen of Arabs or so who preceded this
+      Expedition along this route, two accomplished the entire distance in eight
+      days. From the brief descriptions given of the country, as it day by day
+      expanded to our view, enough may be gleaned to give readers a fair idea of
+      it. The elevation of Simbamwenni cannot be much over 1,000 feet above the
+      level, the rise of the land having been gradual. It being the rainy
+      season, about which so many ominous statements were doled out to us by
+      those ignorant of the character of the country, we naturally saw it under
+      its worst aspect; but, even in this adverse phase of it, with all its
+      depth of black mud, its excessive dew, its dripping and chill grass, its
+      density of rank jungle, and its fevers, I look back upon the scene with
+      pleasure, for the wealth and prosperity it promises to some civilized
+      nation, which in some future time will come and take possession of it. A
+      railroad from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni might be constructed with as much
+      ease and rapidity as, and at far less cost than the Union Pacific Railway,
+      whose rapid strides day by day towards completion the world heard of and
+      admired. A residence in this part of Africa, after a thorough system of
+      drainage had been carried out, would not be attended with more discomfort
+      than generally follows upon the occupation of new land. The temperature at
+      this season during the day never exceeded 85 degrees Fahrenheit. The
+      nights were pleasant&mdash;too cold without a pair of blankets for
+      covering; and, as far as Simbamwenni, they were without that pest which is
+      so dreadful on the Nebraska and Kansas prairies, the mosquito. The only
+      annoyances I know of that would tell hard on the settler is the determined
+      ferocity of the mabungu, or horse-fly; the chufwa, &amp;c., already
+      described, which, until the dense forests and jungles were cleared, would
+      be certain to render the keeping of domestic cattle unremunerative.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Contrary to expectation the Expedition was not able to start at the end of
+      two days; the third and the fourth days were passed miserably enough in
+      the desponding valley of Ungerengeri. This river, small as it is in the
+      dry seasons, becomes of considerable volume and power during the Masika,
+      as we experienced to our sorrow. It serves as a drain to a score of peaks
+      and two long ranges of mountains; winding along their base, it is the
+      recipient of the cascades seen flashing during the few intervals of
+      sunlight, of all the nullahs and ravines which render the lengthy frontage
+      of the mountain slopes so rugged and irregular, until it glides into the
+      valley of Simbamwenni a formidable body of water, opposing a serious
+      obstacle to caravans without means to build bridges; added to which was an
+      incessant downfall of rain&mdash;such a rain as shuts people in-doors and
+      renders them miserable and unamiable&mdash;a real London rain&mdash;an
+      eternal drizzle accompanied with mist and fog. When the sun shone it
+      appeared but a pale image of itself, and old pagazis, wise in their
+      traditions as old whaling captains, shook their heads ominously at the
+      dull spectre, and declared it was doubtful if the rain would cease for
+      three weeks yet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The site of the caravan camp on the hither side of the Ungerengeri was a
+      hot-bed of malaria, unpleasant to witness&mdash;an abomination to memory.
+      The filth of generations of pagazis had gathered innumerable hosts of
+      creeping things. Armies of black, white, and red ants infest the stricken
+      soil; centipedes, like worms, of every hue, clamber over shrubs and
+      plants; hanging to the undergrowth are the honey-combed nests of
+      yellow-headed wasps with stings as harmful as scorpions; enormous beetles,
+      as large as full-grown mice, roll dunghills over the ground; of all sorts,
+      shapes, sizes, and hues are the myriad-fold vermin with which the ground
+      teems; in short, the richest entomological collection could not vie in
+      variety and numbers with the species which the four walls of my tent
+      enclosed from morning until night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the fifth morning, or the 23rd April, the rain gave us a few hours'
+      respite, during which we managed to wade through the Stygian quagmire
+      reeking with noisomeness to the inundated river-bank. The soldiers
+      commenced at 5 A.M. to convey the baggage across from bank to bank over a
+      bridge which was the most rustic of the rustic kind. Only an ignorant
+      African would have been satisfied with its small utility as a means to
+      cross a deep and rapid body of water. Even for light-footed Wanyamwezi
+      pagazis it was anything but comfortable to traverse. Only a professional
+      tight-rope performer could have carried a load across with ease. To travel
+      over an African bridge requires, first, a long leap from land to the limb
+      of a tree (which may or may not be covered by water), followed by a long
+      jump ashore. With 70 lbs. weight on his back, the carrier finds it
+      difficult enough. Sometimes he is assisted by ropes extemporized from the
+      long convolvuli which hang from almost every tree, but not always, these
+      being deemed superfluities by the Washensi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fortunately the baggage was transferred without a single accident, and
+      though the torrent was strong, the donkeys were dragged through the flood
+      by vigorous efforts and much objurgation without a casualty. This
+      performance of crossing the Ungerengeri occupied fully five hours, though
+      energy, abuse, and fury enough were expended for an army.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Reloading and wringing our clothes dry, we set out from the horrible
+      neighbourhood of the river, with its reek and filth, in a northerly
+      direction, following a road which led up to easy and level ground. Two
+      obtruding hills were thus avoided on our left, and after passing them we
+      had shut out the view of the hateful valley.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I always found myself more comfortable and lighthearted while travelling
+      than when chafing and fretting in camp at delays which no effort could
+      avoid, and consequently I fear that some things, while on a march, may be
+      tinted somewhat stronger than their appearance or merit may properly
+      warrant. But I thought that the view opening before us was much more
+      agreeable than the valley of Simbamwenni with all its indescribable
+      fertility. It was a series of glades opening one after another between
+      forest clumps of young trees, hemmed in distantly by isolated peaks and
+      scattered mountains. Now and again, as we crested low eminences we caught
+      sight of the blue Usagara mountains, bounding the horizon westerly and
+      northerly, and looked down upon a vast expanse of plain which lay between.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the foot of the lengthy slope, well-watered by bubbling springs and
+      mountain rills, we found a comfortable khambi with well-made huts, which
+      the natives call Simbo. It lies just two hours or five miles north-west of
+      the Ungerengeri crossing. The ground is rocky, composed principally of
+      quartzose detritus swept down by the constant streams. In the
+      neighbourhood of these grow bamboo, the thickest of which was about two
+      and a half inches in diameter; the "myombo," a very shapely tree, with a
+      clean trunk like an ash, the "imbite," with large, fleshy leaves like the
+      "mtamba," sycamore, plum-tree, the "ugaza," ortamarisk, and the "mgungu,"
+      a tree containing several wide branches with small leaves clustered
+      together in a clump, and the silk-cotton tree.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Though there are no villages or settlements in view of Simbo Khambi, there
+      are several clustered within the mountain folds, inhabited by Waseguhha
+      somewhat prone to dishonest acts and murder.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The long broad plain visible from the eminences crossed between the
+      Ungerengeri and Simbo was now before us, and became known to sorrowful
+      memory subsequently, as the Makata Valley. The initial march was from
+      Simbo, its terminus at Rehenneko, at the base of the Usagara mountains,
+      six marches distant. The valley commences with broad undulations, covered
+      with young forests of bamboo, which grow thickly along the streams, the
+      dwarf fan-palm, the stately Palmyra, and the mgungu. These undulations
+      soon become broken by gullies containing water, nourishing dense crops of
+      cane reeds and broad-bladed grass, and, emerging from this district, wide
+      savannah covered with tall grass open into view, with an isolated tree
+      here and there agreeably breaking the monotony of the scene. The Makata is
+      a wilderness containing but one village of the Waseguhha throughout its
+      broad expanse. Venison, consequently, abounds within the forest clumps,
+      and the kudu, hartebeest, antelope, and zebra may be seen at early dawn
+      emerging into the open savannahs to feed. At night, the cyn-hyaena prowls
+      about with its hideous clamour seeking for sleeping prey, man or beast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The slushy mire of the savannahs rendered marching a work of great
+      difficulty; its tenacious hold of the feet told terribly on men and
+      animals. A ten-mile march required ten hours, we were therefore compelled
+      to camp in the middle of this wilderness, and construct a new khambi, a
+      measure which was afterwards adopted by half a dozen caravans.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The cart did not arrive until nearly midnight, and with it, besides three
+      or four broken-down pagazis, came Bombay with the dolorous tale, that
+      having put his load&mdash;consisting of the property tent, one large
+      American axe, his two uniform coats, his shirts, beads and cloth, powder,
+      pistol, and hatchet&mdash;on the ground, to go and assist the cart out of
+      a quagmire, he had returned to the place where he had left it and could
+      not find it, that he believed that some thieving Washensi, who always lurk
+      in the rear of caravans to pick up stragglers, had decamped with it. Which
+      dismal tale told me at black midnight was not received at all graciously,
+      but rather with most wrathful words, all of which the penitent captain
+      received as his proper due. Working myself into a fury, I enumerated his
+      sins to him; he had lost a goat at Muhalleh, he had permitted Khamisi to
+      desert with valuable property at Imbiki; he had frequently shown culpable
+      negligence in not looking after the donkeys, permitting them to be tied up
+      at night without seeing that they had water, and in the mornings, when
+      about to march, he preferred to sleep until 7 o'clock, rather than wake up
+      early and saddle the donkeys, that we might start at 6 o'clock; he had
+      shown of late great love for the fire, cowering like a bloodless man
+      before it, torpid and apathetic; he had now lost the property-tent in the
+      middle of the Masika season, by which carelessness the cloth bales would
+      rot and become valueless; he had lost the axe which I should want at Ujiji
+      to construct my boat; and finally, he had lost a pistol and hatchet, and a
+      flaskful of the best powder. Considering all these things, how utterly
+      incompetent he was to be captain, I would degrade him from his office and
+      appoint Mabruki Burton instead. Uledi, also, following the example of
+      Bombay, instead of being second captain, should give no orders to any
+      soldiers in future, but should himself obey those given by Mabruki&mdash;the
+      said Mabruki being worth a dozen Bombays, and two dozen Uledis; and so he
+      was dismissed with orders to return at daylight to find the tent, axe,
+      pistol, powder, and hatchet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next morning the caravan, thoroughly fatigued with the last day's
+      exertions, was obliged to halt. Bombay was despatched after the lost
+      goods; Kingaru, Mabruki the Great, and Mabruki the Little were despatched
+      to bring back three doti-worth of grain, on which we were to subsist in
+      the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Three days passed away and we were still at camp, awaiting, with what
+      patience we possessed, the return of the soldiers. In the meantime
+      provisions ran very low, no game could be procured, the birds were so
+      wild. Two days shooting procured but two potfuls of birds, consisting of
+      grouse, quail, and pigeons. Bombay returned unsuccessfully from his search
+      after the missing property, and suffered deep disgrace.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the fourth day I despatched Shaw with two more soldiers, to see what
+      had become of Kingaru and the two Mabrukis. Towards night he returned
+      completely prostrated, with a violent attack of the mukunguru, or ague;
+      but bringing the missing soldiers, who were thus left to report for
+      themselves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With most thankful hearts did we quit our camp, where so much anxiety of
+      mind and fretfulness had been suffered, not heeding a furious rain, which,
+      after drenching us all night, might have somewhat damped our ardor for the
+      march under other circumstances. The road for the first mile led over
+      reddish ground, and was drained by gentle slopes falling east and west;
+      but, leaving the cover of the friendly woods, on whose eastern margin we
+      had been delayed so long, we emerged into one of the savannahs, whose soil
+      during the rain is as soft as slush and tenacious as thick mortar, where
+      we were all threatened with the fate of the famous Arkansas traveller, who
+      had sunk so low in one of the many quagmires in Arkansas county, that
+      nothing but his tall "stove-pipe" hat was left visible.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Shaw was sick, and the whole duty of driving the foundering caravan
+      devolved upon myself. The Wanyamwezi donkeys stuck in the mire as if they
+      were rooted to it. As fast as one was flogged from his stubborn position,
+      prone to the depths fell another, giving me a Sisyphean labour, which was
+      maddening trader pelting rain, assisted by such men as Bombay and Uledi,
+      who could not for a whole skin's sake stomach the storm and mire. Two
+      hours of such a task enabled me to drag my caravan over a savannah one
+      mile and a half broad; and barely had I finished congratulating myself
+      over my success before I was halted by a deep ditch, which, filled with
+      rain-water from the inundated savannahs, had become a considerable stream,
+      breast-deep, flowing swiftly into the Makata. Donkeys had to be unloaded,
+      led through a torrent, and loaded again on the other bank&mdash;an
+      operation which consumed a full hour.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Presently, after straggling through a wood clump, barring our progress was
+      another stream, swollen into a river. The bridge being swept away, we were
+      obliged to swim and float our baggage over, which delayed us two hours
+      more. Leaving this second river-bank, we splashed, waded, occasionally
+      half-swimming, and reeled through mire, water-dripping grass and matama
+      stalks, along the left bank of the Makata proper, until farther progress
+      was effectually prevented for that day by a deep bend of the river, which
+      we should be obliged to cross the next day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Though but six miles were traversed during that miserable day, the march
+      occupied ten hours.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Half dead with fatigue, I yet could feel thankful that it was not
+      accompanied by fever, which it seemed a miracle to avoid; for if ever a
+      district was cursed with the ague, the Makata wilderness ranks foremost of
+      those afflicted. Surely the sight of the dripping woods enveloped in
+      opaque mist, of the inundated country with lengthy swathes of tiger-grass
+      laid low by the turbid flood, of mounds of decaying trees and canes, of
+      the swollen river and the weeping sky, was enough to engender the
+      mukunguru! The well-used khambi, and the heaps of filth surrounding it,
+      were enough to create a cholera!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Makata, a river whose breadth during the dry season is but forty feet,
+      in the Masika season assumes the breadth, depth, and force of an important
+      river. Should it happen to be an unusually rainy season, it inundates the
+      great plain which stretches on either side, and converts it into a great
+      lake. It is the main feeder of the Wami river, which empties into the sea
+      between the ports of Saadani and Whinde. About ten miles north-east of the
+      Makata crossing, the Great Makata, the Little Makata, a nameless creek,
+      and the Rudewa river unite; and the river thus formed becomes known as the
+      Wami. Throughout Usagara the Wami is known as the Mukondokwa. Three of
+      these streams take their rise from the crescent-like Usagara range, which
+      bounds the Makata plain south and south-westerly; while the Rudewa rises
+      in the northern horn of the same range.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      So swift was the flow of the Makata, and so much did its unsteady bridge,
+      half buried in the water, imperil the safety of the property, that its
+      transfer from bank to bank occupied fully five hours. No sooner had we
+      landed every article on the other side, undamaged by the water, than the
+      rain poured down in torrents that drenched them all, as if they had been
+      dragged through the river. To proceed through the swamp which an hour's
+      rain had formed was utterly out of the question. We were accordingly
+      compelled to camp in a place where every hour furnished its quota of
+      annoyance. One of the Wangwana soldiers engaged at Bagamoyo, named
+      Kingaru, improved an opportunity to desert with another Mgwana's kit. My
+      two detectives, Uledi (Grant's valet), and Sarmean, were immediately
+      despatched in pursuit, both being armed with American breech-loaders. They
+      went about their task with an adroitness and celerity which augured well
+      for their success. In an hour they returned with the runaway, having found
+      him hidden in the house of a Mseguhha chief called Kigondo, who lived
+      about a mile from the eastern bank of the river, and who had accompanied
+      Uledi and Sarmean to receive his reward, and render an account of the
+      incident.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kigondo said, when he had been seated, "I saw this man carrying a bundle,
+      and running hard, by which I knew that he was deserting you. We (my wife
+      and 1) were sitting in our little watch-hut, watching our corn; and, as
+      the road runs close by, this man was obliged to come close to us. We
+      called to him when he was near, saying, 'Master, where are you going so
+      fast? Are you deserting the Musungu, for we know you belong to him, since
+      you bought from us yesterday two doti worth of meat?' 'Yes,' said he, 'I
+      am running away; I want to get to Simbamwenni. If you will take me there,
+      I will give you a doti.' We said to him then, 'Come into our house, and we
+      will talk it over quietly. When he was in our house in an inner room, we
+      locked him up, and went out again to the watch; but leaving word with the
+      women to look out for him. We knew that, if you wanted him, you would send
+      askari (soldiers) after him. We had but lit our pipes when we saw two men
+      armed with short guns, and having no loads, coming along the road, looking
+      now and then on the ground, as if they were looking at footmarks. We knew
+      them to be the men we were expecting; so we hailed them, and said,
+      'Masters, what are ye looking for?' \ They said, 'We are looking for a man
+      who has deserted our master. Here are his footsteps. If you have been long
+      in your hut you must have seen him, Can you tell us where he is?' We said,
+      'yes; he is in our house. If you will come with us, we will give him up to
+      you; but your master must give us something for catching him.'"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As Kigondo had promised to deliver Kingaru up, there remained nothing
+      further to do for Uledi and Sarmean but to take charge of their prisoner,
+      and bring him and his captors to my camp on the western bank of the
+      Makata. Kingaru received two dozen lashes, and was chained; his captor a
+      doti, besides five khete of red coral beads for his wife.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      That down-pour of rain which visited us the day we crossed the Makata
+      proved the last of the Masika season. As the first rainfall which we had
+      experienced occurred on the 23rd March, and the last on the 30th April,
+      its duration was thirty-nine days. The seers of Bagamoyo had delivered
+      their vaticinations concerning this same Masika with solemnity. "For forty
+      days," said they, "rain would fall incessantly;" whereas we had but
+      experienced eighteen days' rain. Nevertheless, we were glad that it was
+      over, for we were tired of stopping day after day to dry the bales and
+      grease the tools and ironware, and of seeing all things of cloth and
+      leather rot visibly before our eyes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The 1st of May found us struggling through the mire and water of the
+      Makata with a caravan bodily sick, from the exertion and fatigue of
+      crossing so many rivers and wading through marshes. Shaw was still
+      suffering from his first mukunguru; Zaidi, a soldier, was critically ill
+      with the small-pox; the kichuma-chuma, "little irons," had hold of Bombay
+      across the chest, rendering him the most useless of the unserviceables;
+      Mabruk Saleem, a youth of lusty frame, following the example of Bombay,
+      laid himself down on the marshy ground, professing his total inability to
+      breast the Makata swamp; Abdul Kader, the Hindi tailor and adventurer&mdash;the
+      weakliest of mortal bodies&mdash;was ever ailing for lack of "force," as
+      he expressed it in French, i.e. "strength," ever indisposed to work,
+      shiftless, mock-sick, but ever hungry. "Oh! God," was the cry of my tired
+      soul, "were all the men of my Expedition like this man I should be
+      compelled to return." Solomon was wise perhaps from inspiration, perhaps
+      from observation; I was becoming wise by experience, and I was compelled
+      to observe that when mud and wet sapped the physical energy of the
+      lazily-inclined, a dog-whip became their backs, restoring them to a sound&mdash;some-times
+      to an extravagant activity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For thirty miles from our camp was the Makata plain an extensive swamp.
+      The water was on an average one foot in depth; in some places we plunged
+      into holes three, four, and even five feet deep. Plash, splash, plash,
+      splash, were the only sounds we heard from the commencement of the march
+      until we found the bomas occupying the only dry spots along the line of
+      march. This kind of work continued for two days, until we came in sight of
+      the Rudewa river, another powerful stream with banks brimful of rushing
+      rain-water. Crossing a branch of the Rudewa, and emerging from the dank
+      reedy grass crowding the western bank, the view consisted of an immense
+      sheet of water topped by clumps of grass tufts and foliage of thinly
+      scattered trees, bounded ten or twelve miles off by the eastern front of
+      the Usagara mountain range. The acme of discomfort and vexation was
+      realized on the five-mile march from the Rudewa branch. As myself and the
+      Wangwana appeared with the loaded donkeys, the pagazis were observed
+      huddled on a mound. When asked if the mound was the camp, they replied
+      "No." "Why, then, do you stop here?"&mdash;"Ugh! water plenty!!" One drew
+      a line across his loins to indicate the depth of water before us, another
+      drew a line across his chest, another across his throat another held his
+      hand over his head, by which he meant that we should have to swim. Swim
+      five miles through a reedy marsh! It was impossible; it was also
+      impossible that such varied accounts could all be correct. Without
+      hesitation, therefore, I ordered the Wangwana to proceed with the animals.
+      After three hours of splashing through four feet of water we reached dry
+      land, and had traversed the swamp of Makata. But not without the swamp
+      with its horrors having left a durable impression upon our minds; no one
+      was disposed to forget its fatigues, nor the nausea of travel which it
+      almost engendered. Subsequently, we had to remember its passage still more
+      vividly, and to regret that we had undertaken the journey during the
+      Masika season, when the animals died from this date by twos and threes,
+      almost every day, until but five sickly worn-out beasts remained; when the
+      Wangwana, soldiers, and pagazis sickened of diseases innumerable; when I
+      myself was finally compelled to lie a-bed with an attack of acute
+      dysentery which brought me to the verge of the grave. I suffered more,
+      perhaps, than I might have done had I taken the proper medicine, but my
+      over-confidence in that compound, called "Collis Brown's Chlorodyne,"
+      delayed the cure which ultimately resulted from a judicious use of Dover's
+      powder. In no one single case of diarrhoea or acute dysentery had this
+      "Chlorodyne," about which so much has been said, and written, any effect
+      of lessening the attack whatever, though I used three bottles. To the
+      dysentery contracted during, the transit of the Makata swamp, only two
+      fell victims, and those were a pagazi and my poor little dog "Omar," my
+      companion from India.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The only tree of any prominence in the Makata valley was the Palmyra palm
+      (Borassus flabelliformis), and this grew in some places in numbers
+      sufficient to be called a grove; the fruit was not ripe while we passed,
+      otherwise we might have enjoyed it as a novelty. The other vegetation
+      consisted of the several species of thorn bush, and the graceful
+      parachute-topped and ever-green mimosa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The 4th of May we were ascending a gentle slope towards the important
+      village of Rehenneko, the first village near to which we encamped in
+      Usagara. It lay at the foot of the mountain, and its plenitude and
+      mountain air promised us comfort and health. It was a square, compact
+      village, surrounded by a thick wall of mud, enclosing cone-topped huts,
+      roofed with bamboo and holcus-stalks; and contained a population of about
+      a thousand souls. It has several wealthy and populous neighbours, whose
+      inhabitants are independent enough in their manner, but not unpleasantly
+      so. The streams are of the purest water, fresh, and pellucid as crystal,
+      bubbling over round pebbles and clean gravel, with a music delightful to
+      hear to the traveller in search of such a sweetly potable element.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bamboo grows to serviceable size in the neighbourhood of Rehenneko,
+      strong enough for tent and banghy poles; and in numbers sufficient to
+      supply an army. The mountain slopes are densely wooded with trees that
+      might supply very good timber for building purposes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We rested four days at this pleasant spot, to recruit ourselves, and to
+      allow the sick and feeble time to recover a little before testing their
+      ability in the ascent of the Usagara mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The 8th of May saw us with our terribly jaded men and animals winding up
+      the steep slopes of the first line of hills; gaining the summit of which
+      we obtained a view remarkably grand, which exhibited as in a master
+      picture the broad valley of the Makata, with its swift streams like so
+      many cords of silver, as the sunshine played on the unshadowed reaches of
+      water, with its thousands of graceful palms adding not a little to the
+      charm of the scene, with the great wall of the Uruguru and Uswapanga
+      mountains dimly blue, but sublime in their loftiness and immensity&mdash;forming
+      a fit background to such an extensive, far-embracing prospect.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Turning our faces west, we found ourselves in a mountain world, fold
+      rising above fold, peak behind peak, cone jostling cone; away to the
+      north, to the west, to the south, the mountain tops rolled like so many
+      vitrified waves; not one adust or arid spot was visible in all this scene.
+      The diorama had no sudden changes or striking contrasts, for a universal
+      forest of green trees clothed every peak, cone, and summit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To the men this first day's march through the mountain region of Usagara
+      was an agreeable interlude after the successive journey over the flats and
+      heavy undulations of the maritime region, but to the loaded and enfeebled
+      animals it was most trying. We were minus two by the time we had arrived
+      at our camp, but seven miles from Rehenneko, our first instalment of the
+      debt we owed to Makata. Water, sweet and clear, was abundant in the deep
+      hollows of the mountains, flowing sometimes over beds of solid granite,
+      sometimes over a rich red sandstone, whose soft substance was soon
+      penetrated by the aqueous element, and whose particles were swept away
+      constantly to enrich the valley below; and in other ravines it dashed, and
+      roared, miniature thunder, as it leaped over granite boulders and quartz
+      rock.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The 9th of May, after another such an up-and-down course, ascending hills
+      and descending into the twilight depths of deepening valleys, we came
+      suddenly upon the Mukondokwa, and its narrow pent-up valley crowded with
+      rank reedy grass, cane, and thorny bushes; and rugged tamarisk which
+      grappled for existence with monster convolvuli, winding their coils around
+      their trunks with such tenacity and strength that the tamarisk seemed
+      grown but for their support.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The valley was barely a quarter of a mile broad in some places&mdash;at
+      others it widened to about a mile. The hills on either side shot up into
+      precipitous slopes, clothed with mimosa, acacia, and tamarisk, enclosing a
+      river and valley whose curves and folds were as various as a serpent's.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Shortly after debouching into the Mukondokwa valley, we struck the road
+      traversed by Captains Buxton and Speke in 1857, between Mbumi and
+      Kadetamare (the latter place should be called Misonghi, Kadetamare being
+      but the name of a chief). After following the left bank of the Mukondokwa,
+      during which our route diverged to every point from south-east to west,
+      north and northeast, for about an hour, we came to the ford. Beyond the
+      ford, a short half-hour's march, we came to Kiora.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At this filthy village of Kiora, which was well-grounded with goat-dung,
+      and peopled with a wonderful number of children for a hamlet that did not
+      number twenty families, with a hot sun pouring on the limited open space,
+      with a fury that exceeded 128 degrees Fahrenheit; which swarmed with flies
+      and insects of known and unknown species; I found, as I had been
+      previously informed, the third caravan, which had started out of Bagamoyo
+      so well fitted and supplied. The leader, who was no other than the white
+      man Farquhar, was sick-a-bed with swollen legs (Bright's disease), unable
+      to move.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As he heard my voice, Farquhar staggered out of his tent, so changed from
+      my spruce mate who started from Bagamoyo, that I hardly knew him at first.
+      His legs were ponderous, elephantine, since his leg-illness was of
+      elephantiasis, or dropsy. His face was of a deathly pallor, for he had not
+      been out of his tent for two weeks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A breezy hill, overlooking the village of Kiora, was chosen by me for my
+      camping-ground, and as soon as the tents were pitched, the animals
+      attended to, and a boma made of thorn bushes, Farquhar was carried up by
+      four men into my tent. Upon being questioned as to the cause of his
+      illness, he said he did not know what had caused it. He had no pain, he
+      thought, anywhere. I asked, "Do you not sometimes feel pain on the right
+      side?"&mdash;"Yes, I think I do; but I don't know."&mdash;"Nor over the
+      left nipple sometimes&mdash;a quick throbbing, with a shortness of
+      breath?"&mdash;"Yes, I think I have. I know I breathe quick sometimes." He
+      said his only trouble was in the legs, which were swollen to an immense
+      size. Though he had a sound appetite, he yet felt weak in the legs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From the scant information of the disease and its peculiarities, as given
+      by Farquhar himself, I could only make out, by studying a little medical
+      book I had with me, that "a swelling of the legs, and sometimes of the
+      body, might result from either heart, liver, or kidney disease." But I did
+      not know to what to ascribe the disease, unless it was to elephantiasis&mdash;a
+      disease most common in Zanzibar; nor did I know how to treat it in a man
+      who, could not tell me whether he felt pain in his head or in his back, in
+      his feet or in his chest.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was therefore fortunate for me that I overtook him at Kiora; though he
+      was about to prove a sore incumbrance to me, for he was not able to walk,
+      and the donkey-carriage, after the rough experience of the Makata valley,
+      was failing. I could not possibly leave him at Kiora, death would soon
+      overtake him there; but how long I could convey a man in such a state,
+      through a country devoid of carriage, was a question to be resolved by
+      circumstances.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 11th of May, the third and fifth caravans, now united, followed up
+      the right bank of the Mukondokwa, through fields of holcus, the great
+      Mukondokwa ranges rising in higher altitude as we proceeded west, and
+      enfolding us in the narrow river valley round about. We left Muniyi
+      Usagara on our right, and soon after found hill-spurs athwart our road,
+      which we were obliged to ascend and descend.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A march of eight miles from the ford of Misonghi brought us to another
+      ford of the Mukondokwa, where we bid a long adieu to Burton's road, which
+      led up to the Goma pass and up the steep slopes of Rubeho. Our road left
+      the right bank and followed the left over a country quite the reverse of
+      the Mukondokwa Valley, enclosed between mountain ranges. Fertile soils and
+      spontaneous vegetation, reeking with miasma and overpowering from their
+      odour, we had exchanged for a drouthy wilderness of aloetic and cactaceous
+      plants, where the kolquall and several thorn bushes grew paramount.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Instead of the tree-clad heights, slopes and valleys, instead of
+      cultivated fields, we saw now the confines of uninhabited wilderness. The
+      hill-tops were bared of their bosky crowns, and revealed their rocky
+      natures bleached white by rain and sun. Nguru Peak, the loftiest of the
+      Usagara cones, stood right shoulderwards of us as we ascended the long
+      slope of dun-grey soil which rose beyond the brown Mukondokwa on the left.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the distance of two miles from the last ford, we found a neat khambi,
+      situated close to the river, where it first broke into a furious rapid.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next morning the caravan was preparing for the march, when I was
+      informed that the "Bana Mdogo"&mdash;little master&mdash;Shaw, had not yet
+      arrived with the cart, and the men in charge of it. Late the previous
+      night I had despatched one donkey for Shaw, who had said he was too ill to
+      walk, and another for the load that was on the cart; and had retired
+      satisfied that they would soon arrive. My conclusion, when I learned in
+      the morning that the people had not yet come in, was that Shaw was not
+      aware that for five days we should have to march through a wilderness
+      totally uninhabited. I therefore despatched Chowpereh, a Mgwana soldier,
+      with the following note to him:&mdash;"You will, upon receipt of this
+      order pitch the cart into the nearest ravine, gully, or river, as well as
+      all the extra pack saddles; and come at once, for God's sake, for we must
+      not starve here!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One, two, three, and four hours were passed by me in the utmost
+      impatience, waiting, but in vain, for Shaw. Having a long march before us,
+      I could wait no longer, but went to meet his party myself. About a quarter
+      of mile from the ford I met the van of the laggards&mdash;stout burly
+      Chowpereh&mdash;and, O cartmakers, listen! he carried the cart on his head&mdash;wheels,
+      shafts, body, axle, and all complete; he having found that carrying it was
+      much easier than drawing it. The sight was such a damper to my regard for
+      it as an experiment, that the cart was wheeled into the depths of the tall
+      reeds, and there left. The central figure was Shaw himself, riding at a
+      gait which seemed to leave it doubtful on my mind whether he or his animal
+      felt most sleepy. Upon expostulating with him for keeping the caravan so
+      long waiting when there was a march on hand, in a most peculiar voice&mdash;which
+      he always assumed when disposed to be ugly-tempered&mdash;he said he had
+      done the best he could; but as I had seen the solemn pace at which he
+      rode, I felt dubious about his best endeavours; and of course there was a
+      little scene, but the young European mtongi of an East African expedition
+      must needs sup with the fellows he has chosen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We arrived at Madete at 4 P.M., minus two donkeys, which had stretched
+      their weary limbs in death. We had crossed the Mukondokwa about 3 P.M.,
+      and after taking its bearings and course, I made sure that its rise took
+      place near a group of mountains about forty miles north by west of Nguru
+      Peak. Our road led W.N.W., and at this place finally diverged from the
+      river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 14th, after a march of seven miles over hills whose sandstone and
+      granite formation cropped visibly here and there above the surface, whose
+      stony and dry aspect seemed reflected in every bush and plant, and having
+      gained an altitude of about eight hundred feet above the flow of the
+      Mukondokwa, we sighted the Lake of Ugombo&mdash;a grey sheet of water
+      lying directly at the foot of the hill, from whose summit we gazed at the
+      scene. The view was neither beautiful nor pretty, but what I should call
+      refreshing; it afforded a pleasant relief to the eyes fatigued from
+      dwelling on the bleak country around. Besides, the immediate neighbourhood
+      of the lake was too tame to call forth any enthusiasm; there were no
+      grandly swelling mountains, no smiling landscapes&mdash;nothing but a
+      dun-brown peak, about one thousand feet high above the surface of the lake
+      at its western extremity, from which the lake derived its name, Ugombo;
+      nothing but a low dun-brown irregular range, running parallel with its
+      northern shore at the distance of a mile; nothing but a low plain
+      stretching from its western shore far away towards the Mpwapwa Mountains
+      and Marenga Mkali, then apparent to us from our coign of vantage, from
+      which extensive scene of dun-brownness we were glad to rest our eyes on
+      the quiet grey water beneath.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Descending from the summit of the range, which bounded the lake east for
+      about four hundred feet, we travelled along the northern shore. The time
+      occupied in the journey from the eastern to the western extremity was
+      exactly one hour and thirty minutes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As this side represents its greatest length I conclude that the lake is
+      three miles long by two miles greatest breadth. The immediate shores of
+      the lake on all sides, for at least fifty feet from the water's edge, is
+      one impassable morass nourishing rank reeds and rushes, where the
+      hippopotamus' ponderous form has crushed into watery trails the soft
+      composition of the morass as he passes from the lake on his nocturnal
+      excursions; the lesser animals; such as the "mbogo" (buffalo), the
+      "punda-terra" (zebra); the "twiga" (giraffe), the boar, the kudu, the
+      hyrax or coney and the antelope; come here also to quench their thirst by
+      night. The surface of the lake swarms with an astonishing variety of
+      water-fowl; such as black swan, duck, ibis sacra cranes, pelicans; and
+      soaring above on the look-out for their prey are fish-eagles and hawks,
+      while the neighbourhood is resonant with the loud chirps of the
+      guinea-fowls calling for their young, with the harsh cry of the toucan,
+      the cooing of the pigeon, and the "to-whit, to-whoo" of the owl. From the
+      long grass in its vicinity also issue the grating and loud cry of the
+      florican, woodcock, and grouse.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Being obliged to halt here two days, owing to the desertion of the Hindi
+      cooper Jako with one of my best carbines, I improved the opportunity of
+      exploring the northern and southern shores of the lake. At the rocky foot
+      of a low, humpy hill on the northern side, about fifteen feet above the
+      present surface of the water I detected in most distinct and definite
+      lines the agency of waves. From its base could be traced clear to the edge
+      of the dank morass tiny lines of comminuted shell as plainly marked as the
+      small particles which lie in rows on a beech after a receding tide. There
+      is no doubt that the wave-marks on the sandstone might have been traced
+      much higher by one skilled in geology; it was only its elementary
+      character that was visible to me. Nor do I entertain the least doubt,
+      after a two days' exploration of the neighbourhood, especially of the low
+      plain at the western end, that this Lake of Ugombo is but the tail of what
+      was once a large body of water equal in extent to the Tanganika; and,
+      after ascending half way up Ugombo Peak, this opinion was confirmed when I
+      saw the long-depressed line of plain at its base stretching towards the
+      Mpwapwa Mountains thirty miles off, and thence round to Marenga Mkali, and
+      covering all that extensive surface of forty miles in breadth, and an
+      unknown length. A depth of twelve feet more, I thought, as I gazed upon
+      it, would give the lake a length of thirty miles, and a breadth of ten. A
+      depth of thirty feet would increase its length over a hundred miles, and
+      give it a breadth of fifty, for such was the level nature of the plain
+      that stretched west of Ugombo, and north of Marenga Mkali. Besides the
+      water of the lake partook slightly of the bitter nature of the Matamombo
+      creek, distant fifteen miles, and in a still lesser degree of that of
+      Marenga Mkali, forty miles off.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Towards the end of the first day of our halt the Hindi cooper Jako arrived
+      in camp, alleging as an excuse, that feeling fatigued he had fallen asleep
+      in some bushes a few feet from the roadside. Having been the cause of our
+      detention in the hungry wilderness of Ugombo, I was not in a frame of mind
+      to forgive him; so, to prevent any future truant tricks on his part, I was
+      under the necessity of including him with the chained gangs of runaways.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Two more of our donkeys died, and to prevent any of the valuable baggage
+      being left behind, I was obliged to send Farquhar off on my own riding-ass
+      to the village of Mpwapwa, thirty miles off, under charge of Mabruki
+      Burton.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To save the Expedition from ruin, I was reluctantly compelled to come to
+      the conclusion that it were better for me, for him, and concerned, that he
+      be left with some kind chief of a village, with a six months' supply of
+      cloth and beads, until he got well, than that he make his own recovery
+      impossible.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The 16th of May saw us journeying over the plain which lies between Ugombo
+      and Mpwapwa, skirting close, at intervals, a low range of trap-rock, out
+      of which had become displaced by some violent agency several immense
+      boulders. On its slopes grew the kolquall to a size which I had not seen
+      in Abyssinia. In the plain grew baobab, and immense tamarind, and a
+      variety of thorn.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Within five hours from Ugombo the mountain range deflected towards the
+      north-east, while we continued on a north-westerly course, heading for the
+      lofty mountain-line of the Mpwapwa. To our left towered to the blue clouds
+      the gigantic Rubeho. The adoption of this new road to Unyanyembe by which
+      we were travelling was now explained&mdash;we were enabled to avoid the
+      passes and stiff steeps of Rubeho, and had nothing worse to encounter than
+      a broad smooth plain, which sloped gently to Ugogo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a march of fifteen miles we camped at a dry mtoni, called Matamombo,
+      celebrated for its pools of bitter water of the colour of ochre. Monkeys
+      and rhinoceroses, besides kudus, steinboks, and antelopes, were numerous
+      in the vicinity. At this camp my little dog "Omar" died of inflammation of
+      the bowels, almost on the threshold of the country&mdash;Ugogo&mdash;where
+      his faithful watchfulness would have been invaluable to me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day's march was also fifteen miles in length, through one
+      interminable jungle of thorn-bushes. Within two miles of the camp, the
+      road led up a small river bed, broad as an avenue, clear to the khambi of
+      Mpwapwa; which was situated close to a number of streams of the purest
+      water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The following morning found us much fatigued after the long marches from
+      Ugombo, and generally disposed to take advantage of the precious luxuries
+      Mpwapwa offered to caravans fresh from the fly-plagued lands of the
+      Waseguhha and Wadoe. Sheikh Thani&mdash;clever but innocently-speaking old
+      Arab&mdash;was encamped under the grateful umbrage of a huge Mtamba
+      sycamore, and had been regaling himself with fresh milk, luscious mutton,
+      and rich bullock humps, ever since his arrival here, two days before; and,
+      as he informed me, it did not suit his views to quit such a happy
+      abundance so soon for the saline nitrous water of Marenga Mkali, with its
+      several terekezas, and manifold disagreeables. "No!" said he to me,
+      emphatically, "better stop here two or three days, give your tired animals
+      some rest; collect all the pagazis you can, fill your inside with fresh
+      milk, sweet potatoes, beef, mutton, ghee, honey, beans, matama, maweri,
+      and nuts;&mdash;then, Inshallah! we shall go together through Ugogo
+      without stopping anywhere." As the advice tallied accurately with my own
+      desired and keen appetite for the good things he named, he had not long to
+      wait for my assent to his counsel. "Ugogo," continued he, "is rich with
+      milk and honey&mdash;rich in flour, beans and almost every eatable thing;
+      and, Inshallah! before another week is gone we shall be in Ugogo!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I had heard from passing caravans so many extremely favourable reports
+      respecting Ugogo and its productions that it appeared to me a very Land of
+      Promise, and I was most anxious to refresh my jaded stomach with some of
+      the precious esculents raised in Ugogo; but when I heard that Mpwapwa also
+      furnished some of those delicate eatables, and good things, most of the
+      morning hours were spent in inducing the slow-witted people to part with
+      them; and when, finally, eggs, milk, honey, mutton, ghee, ground matama
+      and beans had been collected in sufficient quantities to produce a
+      respectable meal, my keenest attention and best culinary talents were
+      occupied for a couple of hours in converting this crude supply into a
+      breakfast which could be accepted by and befit a stomach at once
+      fastidious and famished, such as mine was. The subsequent healthy
+      digestion of it proved my endeavours to have been eminently successful. At
+      the termination of this eventful day, the following remark was jotted down
+      in my diary: "Thank God! After fifty-seven days of living upon matama
+      porridge and tough goat, I have enjoyed with unctuous satisfaction a real
+      breakfast and dinner."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was in one of the many small villages which are situated upon the
+      slopes of the Mpwapwa that a refuge and a home for Farquhar was found
+      until he should be enabled by restored health to start to join us at
+      Unyanyembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Food was plentiful and of sufficient variety to suit the most fastidious&mdash;cheap
+      also, much cheaper than we had experienced for many a day. Leucole, the
+      chief of the village, with whom arrangements for Farquhar's protection and
+      comfort were made, was a little old man of mild eye and very pleasing
+      face, and on being informed that it was intended to leave the Musungu
+      entirely under his charge, suggested that some man should be left to wait
+      on him, and interpret his wishes to his people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As Jako was the only one who could speak English, except Bombay and Selim,
+      Jako was appointed, and the chief Leucole was satisfied. Six months'
+      provisions of white beads, Merikani and Kaniki cloth, together with two
+      doti of handsome cloth to serve as a present to Leucole after his
+      recovery, were taken to Farquhar by Bombay, together with a Starr's
+      carbine, 300 rounds of cartridge, a set of cooking pots, and 3 lbs. of
+      tea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Abdullah bin Nasib, who was found encamped here with five hundred pagazis,
+      and a train of Arab and Wasawahili satellites, who revolved around his
+      importance, treated me in somewhat the same manner that Hamed bin Sulayman
+      treated Speke at Kasenge. Followed by his satellites, he came (a tall
+      nervous-looking man, of fifty or thereabouts) to see me in my camp, and
+      asked me if I wished to purchase donkeys. As all my animals were either
+      sick or moribund, I replied very readily in the affirmative, upon which he
+      graciously said he would sell me as many as I wanted, and for payment I
+      could give him a draft on Zanzibar. I thought him a very considerate and
+      kind person, fully justifying the encomiums lavished on him in Burton's
+      'Lake Regions of Central Africa,' and accordingly I treated him with the
+      consideration due to so great and good a man. The morrow came, and with it
+      went Abdullah bin Nasib, or "Kisesa," as he is called by the Wanyamwezi,
+      with all his pagazis, his train of followers, and each and every one of
+      his donkeys, towards Bagamoyo, without so much as giving a "Kwaheri," or
+      good-bye.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At this place there are generally to be found from ten to thirty pagazis
+      awaiting up-caravans. I was fortunate enough to secure twelve good people,
+      who, upon my arrival at Unyanyembe, without an exception, voluntarily
+      engaged themselves as carriers to Ujiji. With the formidable marches of
+      Marenga Mkali in front, I felt thankful for this happy windfall, which
+      resolved the difficulties I had been anticipating; for I had but ten
+      donkeys left, and four of these were so enfeebled that they were worthless
+      as baggage animals.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mpwapwa&mdash;so called by the Arabs, who have managed to corrupt almost
+      every native word&mdash;is called "Mbambwa" by the Wasagara. It is a
+      mountain range rising over 6,000 feet above the sea, bounding on the north
+      the extensive plain which commences at Ugombo lake, and on the east that
+      part of the plain which is called Marenga Mkali, which stretches away
+      beyond the borders of Uhumba. Opposite Mpwapwa, at the distance of thirty
+      miles or so, rises the Anak peak of Rubeho, with several other ambitious
+      and tall brethren cresting long lines of rectilinear scarps, which ascend
+      from the plain of Ugombo and Marenga Mkali as regularly as if they had
+      been chiselled out by the hands of generations of masons and stonecutters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Upon looking at Mpwapwa's greenly-tinted slopes, dark with many a
+      densely-foliaged tree; its many rills flowing sweet and clear, nourishing
+      besides thick patches of gum and thorn bush, giant sycamore and
+      parachute-topped mimosa, and permitting my imagination to picture sweet
+      views behind the tall cones above, I was tempted to brave the fatigue of
+      an ascent to the summit. Nor was my love for the picturesque disappointed.
+      One sweep of the eyes embraced hundreds of square miles of plain and
+      mountain, from Ugombo Peak away to distant Ugogo, and from Rubeho and
+      Ugogo to the dim and purple pasture lands of the wild, untamable Wahumba.
+      The plain of Ugombo and its neighbour of Marenga Mkali, apparently level
+      as a sea, was dotted here and there with "hillocks dropt in Nature's
+      careless haste," which appeared like islands amid the dun and green
+      expanse. Where the jungle was dense the colour was green, alternating with
+      dark brown; where the plain appeared denuded of bush and brake it had a
+      whity-brown appearance, on which the passing clouds now and again cast
+      their deep shadows. Altogether this side of the picture was not inviting;
+      it exhibited too plainly the true wilderness in its sternest aspect; but
+      perhaps the knowledge that in the bosom of the vast plain before me there
+      was not one drop of water but was bitter as nitre, and undrinkable as
+      urine, prejudiced me against it, The hunter might consider it a paradise,
+      for in its depths were all kinds of game to attract his keenest instincts;
+      but to the mere traveller it had a stern outlook. Nearer, however, to the
+      base of the Mpwapwa the aspect of the plain altered. At first the jungle
+      thinned, openings in the wood appeared, then wide and naked clearings,
+      then extensive fields of the hardy holcus, Indian corn, and maweri or
+      bajri, with here and there a square tembe or village. Still nearer ran
+      thin lines of fresh young grass, great trees surrounded a patch of
+      alluvial meadow. A broad river-bed, containing several rivulets of water,
+      ran through the thirsty fields, conveying the vivifying element which in
+      this part of Usagara was so scarce and precious. Down to the river-bed
+      sloped the Mpwapwa, roughened in some places by great boulders of basalt,
+      or by rock masses, which had parted from a precipitous scarp, where clung
+      the kolquall with a sure hold, drawing nourishment where every other green
+      thing failed; clad in others by the hardy mimosa, which rose like a
+      sloping bank of green verdure almost to the summit. And, happy sight to me
+      so long a stranger to it, there were hundreds of cattle grazing, imparting
+      a pleasing animation to the solitude of the deep folds of the mountain
+      range.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But the fairest view was obtained by looking northward towards the dense
+      group of mountains which buttressed the front range, facing towards
+      Rubeho. It was the home of the winds, which starting here and sweeping
+      down the precipitous slopes and solitary peaks on the western side, and
+      gathering strength as they rushed through the prairie-like Marenga Mkali,
+      howled through Ugogo and Unyamwezi with the force of a storm, It was also
+      the home of the dews, where sprang the clear springs which cheered by
+      their music the bosky dells below, and enriched the populous district of
+      Mpwapwa. One felt better, stronger, on this breezy height, drinking in the
+      pure air and feasting the eyes on such a varied landscape as it presented,
+      on spreading plateaus green as lawns, on smooth rounded tops, on mountain
+      vales containing recesses which might charm a hermit's soul, on deep and
+      awful ravines where reigned a twilight gloom, on fractured and riven
+      precipices, on huge fantastically-worn boulders which overtopped them, on
+      picturesque tracts which embraced all that was wild, and all that was
+      poetical in Nature.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mpwapwa, though the traveller from the coast will feel grateful for the
+      milk it furnished after being so long deprived of it, will be kept in mind
+      as a most remarkable place for earwigs. In my tent they might be counted
+      by thousands; in my slung cot they were by hundreds; on my clothes they
+      were by fifties; on my neck and head they were by scores. The several
+      plagues of locusts, fleas, and lice sink into utter insignificance
+      compared with this fearful one of earwigs. It is true they did not bite,
+      and they did not irritate the cuticle, but what their presence and numbers
+      suggested was something so horrible that it drove one nearly insane to
+      think of it. Who will come to East Africa without reading the experiences
+      of Burton and Speke? Who is he that having read them will not remember
+      with horror the dreadful account given by Speke of his encounters with
+      these pests? My intense nervous watchfulness alone, I believe, saved me
+      from a like calamity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Second to the earwigs in importance and in numbers were the white ants,
+      whose powers of destructiveness were simply awful. Mats, cloth,
+      portmanteaus, clothes, in short, every article I possessed, seemed on the
+      verge of destruction, and, as I witnessed their voracity, I felt anxious
+      lest my tent should be devoured while I slept. This was the first khambi
+      since leaving the coast where their presence became a matter of anxiety;
+      at all other camping places hitherto the red and black ants had usurped
+      our attention, but at Mpwapwa the red species were not seen, while the
+      black were also very scarce.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a three days' halt at Mpwapwa I decided of a march to Marenga Mkali,
+      which should be uninterrupted until we reached Mvumi in Ugogo, where I
+      should be inducted into the art of paying tribute to the Wagogo chiefs.
+      The first march to Kisokweh was purposely made short, being barely four
+      miles, in order to enable Sheikh Thani, Sheikh Hamed, and five or six
+      Wasawahili caravans to come up with me at Chunyo on the confines of
+      Marenga Mkali.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER VII. &mdash; MARENGA MKALI, UGOGO, AND UYANZI, TO UNYANYEMBE.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Mortality amongst the baggage animals.&mdash;The contumacious
+     Wagogo&mdash;Mobs of Maenads.&mdash;Tribute paying.&mdash;Necessity of
+     prudence.&mdash;Oration of the guide.&mdash;The genuine "Ugogians."&mdash;
+     Vituperative power.&mdash;A surprised chief.&mdash;The famous
+     Mizanza.&mdash;Killing hyaenas.&mdash;The Greeks and Romans of
+     Africa.&mdash;A critical moment.&mdash;The "elephant's back."&mdash;The
+     wilderness of Ukimbu.&mdash;End of the first stage of the
+     search.&mdash;Arrival at Unyanyembe.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The 22nd of May saw Thani and Hamed's caravans united with my own at
+      Chunyo, three and a half hours' march from Mpwapwa. The road from the
+      latter place ran along the skirts of the Mpwapwa range; at three or four
+      places it crossed outlying spurs that stood isolated from the main body of
+      the range. The last of these hill spurs, joined by an elevated cross ridge
+      to the Mpwapwa, shelters the tembe of Chunyo, situated on the western
+      face, from the stormy gusts that come roaring down the steep slopes. The
+      water of Chunyo is eminently bad, in fact it is its saline-nitrous nature
+      which has given the name Marenga Mkali&mdash;bitter water&mdash;to the
+      wilderness which separates Usagara from Ugogo. Though extremely offensive
+      to the palate, Arabs and the natives drink it without fear, and without
+      any bad results; but they are careful to withhold their baggage animals
+      from the pits. Being ignorant of its nature, and not exactly understanding
+      what precise location was meant by Marenga Mkali, I permitted the donkeys
+      to be taken to water, as usual after a march; and the consequence was
+      calamitous in the extreme. What the fearful swamp of Makata had spared,
+      the waters of Marenga Mkali destroyed. In less than five days after our
+      departure from Chunyo or Marenga Mali, five out of the nine donkeys left
+      to me at the time&mdash;the five healthiest animals&mdash;fell victims.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We formed quite an imposing caravan as we emerged from inhospitable
+      Chunyo, in number amounting to about four hundred souls. We were strong in
+      guns, flags, horns, sounding drums and noise. To Sheikh Hamed, by
+      permission of Sheikh Thani, and myself was allotted the task of guiding
+      and leading this great caravan through dreaded Ugogo; which was a most
+      unhappy selection, as will be seen hereafter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Marenga Mali, over thirty miles across, was at last before us. This
+      distance had to be traversed within thirty-six hours, so that the fatigue
+      of the ordinary march would be more than doubled by this. From Chunyo to
+      Ugogo not one drop of water was to be found. As a large caravan, say over
+      two hundred souls, seldom travels over one and three-quarter miles per
+      hour, a march of thirty miles would require seventeen hours of endurance
+      without water and but little rest. East Africa generally possessing
+      unlimited quantities of water, caravans have not been compelled for lack
+      of the element to have recourse to the mushok of India and the khirbeh of
+      Egypt. Being able to cross the waterless districts by a couple of long
+      marches, they content themselves for the time with a small gourdful, and
+      with keeping their imaginations dwelling upon the copious quantities they
+      will drink upon arrival at the watering-place.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The march through this waterless district was most monotonous, and a
+      dangerous fever attacked me, which seemed to eat into my very vitals. The
+      wonders of Africa that bodied themselves forth in the shape of flocks of
+      zebras, giraffes, elands, or antelopes, galloping over the jungleless
+      plain, had no charm for me; nor could they serve to draw my attention from
+      the severe fit of sickness which possessed me. Towards the end of the
+      first march I was not able to sit upon the donkey's back; nor would it do,
+      when but a third of the way across the wilderness, to halt until the next
+      day; soldiers were therefore detailed to carry me in a hammock, and, when
+      the terekeza was performed in the afternoon, I lay in a lethargic state,
+      unconscious of all things. With the night passed the fever, and, at 3
+      o'clock in the morning, when the march was resumed, I was booted and
+      spurred, and the recognized mtongi of my caravan once more. At 8 A.M. we
+      had performed the thirty-two miles. The wilderness of Marenga Mkali had
+      been passed and we had entered Ugogo, which was at once a dreaded land to
+      my caravan, and a Land of Promise to myself.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The transition from the wilderness into this Promised Land was very
+      gradual and easy. Very slowly the jungle thinned, the cleared land was a
+      long time appearing, and when it had finally appeared, there were no signs
+      of cultivation until we could clearly make out the herbage and vegetation
+      on some hill slopes to our right running parallel with our route, then we
+      saw timber on the hills, and broad acreage under cultivation&mdash;and,
+      lo! as we ascended a wave of reddish earth covered with tall weeds and
+      cane, but a few feet from us, and directly across our path, were the
+      fields of matama and grain we had been looking for, and Ugogo had been
+      entered an hour before.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The view was not such as I expected. I had imagined a plateau several
+      hundred feet higher than Marenga Mkali, and an expansive view which should
+      reveal Ugogo and its characteristics at once. But instead, while
+      travelling from the tall weeds which covered the clearing which had
+      preceded the cultivated parts, we had entered into the depths of the
+      taller matama stalks, and, excepting some distant hills near Mvumi, where
+      the Great Sultan lived&mdash;the first of the tribe to whom we should pay
+      tribute&mdash;the view was extremely limited.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      However, in the neighbourhood of the first village a glimpse at some of
+      the peculiar features of Ugogo was obtained, and there was a vast plain&mdash;now
+      flat, now heaving upwards, here level as a table, there tilted up into
+      rugged knolls bristling with scores of rough boulders of immense size,
+      which lay piled one above another as if the children of a Titanic race had
+      been playing at house-building. Indeed, these piles of rounded, angular,
+      and riven rock formed miniature hills of themselves; and appeared as if
+      each body had been ejected upwards by some violent agency beneath. There
+      was one of these in particular, near Mvumi, which was so large, and being
+      slightly obscured from view by the outspreading branches of a gigantic
+      baobab, bore such a strong resemblance to a square tower of massive
+      dimensions, that for a long time I cherished the idea that I had
+      discovered something most interesting which had strangely escaped the
+      notice of my predecessors in East Africa. A nearer view dispelled the
+      illusion, and proved it to be a huge cube of rock, measuring about forty
+      feet each way. The baobabs were also particularly conspicuous on this
+      scene, no other kind of tree being visible in the cultivated parts. These
+      had probably been left for two reasons: first, want of proper axes for
+      felling trees of such enormous growth; secondly, because during a famine
+      the fruit of the baobab furnishes a flour which, in the absence of
+      anything better, is said to be eatable and nourishing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first words I heard in Ugogo were from a Wagogo elder, of sturdy form,
+      who in an indolent way tended the flocks, but showed a marked interest in
+      the stranger clad in white flannels, with a Hawkes' patent cork solar
+      topee on his head, a most unusual thing in Ugogo, who came walking past
+      him, and there were "Yambo, Musungu, Yambo, bana, bana," delivered with a
+      voice loud enough to make itself heard a full mile away. No sooner had the
+      greeting been delivered than the word "Musungu" seemed to electrify his
+      entire village; and the people of other villages, situated at intervals
+      near the road, noting the excitement that reigned at the first, also
+      participated in the general frenzy which seemed suddenly to have possessed
+      them. I consider my progress from the first village to Mvumi to have been
+      most triumphant; for I was accompanied by a furious mob of men, women, and
+      children, all almost as naked as Mother Eve when the world first dawned
+      upon her in the garden of Eden, fighting, quarrelling, jostling,
+      staggering against each other for the best view of the white man, the like
+      of whom was now seen for the first time in this part of Ugogo. The cries
+      of admiration, such as "Hi-le!" which broke often and in confused uproar
+      upon my ear, were not gratefully accepted, inasmuch as I deemed many of
+      them impertinent. A respectful silence and more reserved behaviour would
+      have won my esteem; but, ye powers, who cause etiquette to be observed in
+      Usungu,* respectful silence, reserved behaviour, and esteem are terms
+      unknown in savage Ugogo. Hitherto I had compared myself to a merchant of
+      Bagdad travelling among the Kurds of Kurdistan, selling his wares of
+      Damascus silk, kefiyehs, &amp;c.; but now I was compelled to lower my
+      standard, and thought myself not much better than a monkey in a zoological
+      collection. One of my soldiers requested them to lessen their vociferous
+      noise; but the evil-minded race ordered him to shut up, as a thing
+      unworthy to speak to the Wagogo! When I imploringly turned to the Arabs
+      for counsel in this strait, old Sheikh Thani, always worldly wise, said,
+      "Heed them not; they are dogs who bite besides barking." &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;
+      * White man's land. &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At 9 A.M. we were in our boma, near Mvumi village; but here also crowds of
+      Wagogo came to catch a glimpse of the Musungu, whose presence was soon
+      made known throughout the district of Mvumi. But two hours later I was
+      oblivious of their endeavours to see me; for, despite repeated doses of
+      quinine, the mukunguru had sure hold of me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day was a march of eight miles, from East Mvumi to West Mvumi,
+      where lived the Sultan of the district. The quantity and variety of
+      provisions which arrived at our boma did not belie the reports respecting
+      the productions of Ugogo. Milk, sour and sweet, honey, beans, matama,
+      maweri, Indian corn, ghee, pea-nuts, and a species of bean-nut very like a
+      large pistachio or an almond, water-melons, pumpkins, mush-melons, and
+      cucumbers were brought, and readily exchanged for Merikani, Kaniki, and
+      for the white Merikani beads and Sami-Sami, or Sam-Sam. The trade and
+      barter which progressed in the camp from morning till night reminded me of
+      the customs existing among the Gallas and Abyssinians. Eastward, caravans
+      were obliged to despatch men with cloth, to purchase from the villagers.
+      This was unnecessary in Ugogo, where the people voluntarily brought every
+      vendible they possessed to the camp. The smallest breadth of white or blue
+      cloth became saleable and useful in purchasing provisions&mdash;even a
+      loin-cloth worn threadbare.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The day after our march was a halt. We had fixed this day for bearing the
+      tribute to the Great Sultan of Mvumi. Prudent and cautious Sheikh Thani
+      early began this important duty, the omission of which would have been a
+      signal for war. Hamed and Thani sent two faithful slaves, well up to the
+      eccentricities of the Wagogo sultans&mdash;well spoken, having glib
+      tongues and the real instinct for trade as carried on amongst Orientals.
+      They bore six doti of cloths, viz., one doti of Dabwani Ulyah contributed
+      by myself, also one doti of Barsati from me, two doti Merikani Satine from
+      Sheikh Thani, and two doti of Kaniki from Sheikh Hamed, as a first
+      instalment of the tribute. The slaves were absent a full hour, but having
+      wasted their powers of pleading, in vain, they returned with the demand
+      for more, which Sheikh Thani communicated to me in this wise:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Auf! this Sultan is a very bad man&mdash;a very bad man indeed; he says,
+      the Musungu is a great man, I call him a sultan; the Musungu is very rich,
+      for he has several caravans already gone past; the Musungu must pay forty
+      doti, and the Arabs must pay twelve doti each, for they have rich
+      caravans. It is of no use for you to tell me you are all one caravan,
+      otherwise why so many flags and tents? Go and bring me sixty doti, with
+      less I will not be satisfied."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I suggested to Sheikh Thani, upon hearing this exorbitant demand, that had
+      I twenty Wasungu* armed with Winchester repeating rifles, the Sultan might
+      be obliged to pay tribute to me; but Thani prayed and begged me to be
+      cautious lest angry words might irritate the Sultan and cause him to
+      demand a double tribute, as he was quite capable of doing so; "and if you
+      preferred war," said he, "your pagazis would all desert, and leave you and
+      your cloth to the small mercy of the Wagogo." But I hastened to allay his
+      fears by telling Bombay, in his presence, that I had foreseen such demands
+      on the part of the Wagogo, and that having set aside one hundred and
+      twenty doti of honga cloths, I should not consider myself a sufferer if
+      the Sultan demanded and I paid forty cloths to him; that he must therefore
+      open the honga bale, and permit Sheikh Thani to extract such cloths as the
+      Sultan might like.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sheikh Thani, having put on the cap of consideration and joined heads with
+      Hamed and the faithful serviles, thought if I paid twelve doti, out of
+      which three should be of Ulyah+ quality, that the Sultan might possibly
+      condescend to accept our tribute; supposing he was persuaded by the
+      oratorical words of the "Faithfuls," that the Musungu had nothing with him
+      but the mashiwa (boat), which would be of no use to him, come what might,&mdash;with
+      which prudent suggestion the Musungu concurred, seeing its wisdom.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * White men.
+
+     + Best, or superior.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The slaves departed, bearing this time from our boma thirty doti, with our
+      best wishes for their success. In an hour they returned with empty hands,
+      but yet unsuccessful. The Sultan demanded six doti of Merikani, and a
+      fundo of bubu, from the Musungu; and from the Arabs and other caravans,
+      twelve doti more. For the third time the slaves departed for the Sultan's
+      tembe, carrying with them six doti Merikani and a fundo of bubu from
+      myself, and ten doti from the Arabs. Again they returned to us with the
+      Sultan's words, "That, as the doti of the Musungu were short measure, and
+      the cloths of the Arabs of miserable quality, the Musungu must send three
+      doti full measure, and the Arabs five doti of Kaniki." My three doti were
+      at once measured out with the longest fore-arm&mdash;according to Kigogo
+      measure&mdash;and sent off by Bombay; but the Arabs, almost in despair,
+      declared they would be ruined if they gave way to such demands, and out of
+      the five doti demanded sent only two, with a pleading to the Sultan that
+      he would consider what was paid as just and fair Muhongo, and not ask any
+      more. But the Sultan of Mvumi was by no means disposed to consider any
+      such proposition, but declared he must have three doti, and these to be
+      two of Ulyah cloth, and one Kitambi Barsati, which, as he was determined
+      to obtain, were sent to him heavy with the deep maledictions of Sheikh
+      Hamed and the despairing sighs of sheikh Thani.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Altogether the sultanship of a district in Ugogo must be very
+      remunerative, besides being a delightful sinecure, so long as the Sultan
+      has to deal with timid Arab merchants who fear to exhibit anything
+      approaching to independence and self-reliance, lest they might be mulcted
+      in cloth. In one day from one camp the sultan received forty-seven doti,
+      consisting of Merikani, Kaniki, Barsati, and Dabwani, equal to $35.25,
+      besides seven doti of superior cloths, consisting of Rehani, Sohari, and
+      Daobwani Ulyah, and one fundo of Bubu, equal to $14.00, making a total of
+      $49.25&mdash;a most handsome revenue for a Mgogo chief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 27th May we gladly shook the dust of Mvumi from our feet, and
+      continued on our route&mdash;ever westward. Five of my donkeys had died
+      the night before, from the effects of the water of Marenga Mkali. Before
+      leaving the camp of Mvumi, I went to look at their carcases; but found
+      them to have been clean picked by the hyaenas, and the bones taken
+      possession of by an army of white-necked crows.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As we passed the numerous villages, and perceived the entire face of the
+      land to be one vast field of grain, and counted the people halted by
+      scores on the roadside to feast their eyes with a greedy stare on the
+      Musungu, I no longer wondered at the extortionate demands of the Wagogo.
+      For it was manifest that they had but to stretch out their hands to
+      possess whatever the wealth of a caravan consisted of; and I began to
+      think better of the people who, knowing well their strength, did not use
+      it&mdash;of people who were intellectual enough to comprehend that their
+      interest lay in permitting the caravans to pass on without attempting any
+      outrage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Between Mvumi and the nest Sultan's district, that of Matamburu, I counted
+      no less than twenty-five villages, scattered over the clayey, coloured
+      plain. Despite the inhospitable nature of the plain, it was better
+      cultivated than any part of any other country we had seen since leaving
+      Bagamoyo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When we had at last arrived at our boma of Matamburu, the same groups of
+      curious people, the same eager looks, the same exclamations of surprise,
+      the same, peals of laughter, at something they deemed ludicrous in the
+      Musungu's dress or manner, awaited us, as at Mvumi. The Arabs being
+      "Wakonongo" travellers, whom they saw every day, enjoyed a complete
+      immunity from the vexations which we had to endure.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Sultan of Matamburu, a man of herculean form, and massive head well
+      set on shoulders that might vie with those of Milo, proved to be a very
+      reasonable person. Not quite so powerful as the Sultan of Mvumi, he yet
+      owned a fair share of Ugogo and about forty villages, and could, if he
+      chose, have oppressed the mercantile souls of my Arab companions, in the
+      same way as he of Mvumi. Four doti of cloth were taken to him as a
+      preliminary offering to his greatness, which he said he would accept, if
+      the Arabs and Musungu would send him four more. As his demands were so
+      reasonable, this little affair was soon terminated to everybody's
+      satisfaction; and soon after, the kirangozi of Sheikh Hamed sounded the
+      signal for the morrow's march.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the orders of the same Sheikh, the kirangozi stood up to speak before
+      the assembled caravans. "Words, words, from the Bana," he shouted. "Give
+      ear, kirangozis! Listen, children of Unyamwezi! The journey is for
+      to-morrow! The road is crooked and bad, bad! The jungle is there, and many
+      Wagogo lie hidden within it! Wagogo spear the pagazis, and cut the throats
+      of those who carry mutumba (bales) and ushanga (beads)! The Wagogo have
+      been to our camp, they have seen your bales; to-night they seek the
+      jungle: to-morrow watch well, O Wanyamwezi! Keep close together, lag not
+      behind! Kirangozis walk slow, that the weak, the sick, and the young may
+      keep up with the strong! Take two rests on the journey! These are the
+      words of the Bana (master). Do you hear them, Wanyamwezi? (A loud shout in
+      the affirmative from all.) Do you understand them well? (another chorus);
+      then Bas;" having said which, the eloquent kirangozi retired into the dark
+      night, and his straw hut.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The march to Bihawana, our next camp, was rugged and long, through a
+      continuous jungle of gums and thorns, up steep hills and finally over a
+      fervid plain, while the sun waxed hotter and hotter as it drew near the
+      meridian, until it seemed to scorch all vitality from inanimate nature,
+      while the view was one white blaze, unbearable to the pained sight, which
+      sought relief from the glare in vain. Several sandy watercourses, on which
+      were impressed many a trail of elephants, were also passed on this march.
+      The slope of these stream-beds trended south-east and south.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the middle of this scorching plain stood the villages of Bihawana,
+      almost undistinguishable, from the extreme lowness of the huts, which did
+      not reach the height of the tall bleached grass which stood smoking in the
+      untempered heat.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our camp was in a large boma, about a quarter of a mile from the Sultan's
+      tembe. Soon after arriving at the camp, I was visited by three Wagogo, who
+      asked me if I had seen a Mgogo on the road with a woman and child. I was
+      about to answer, very innocently, "Yes," when Mabruki&mdash;cautious and
+      watchful always for the interests of the master&mdash;requested me not to
+      answer, as the Wagogo, as customary, would charge me with having done away
+      with them, and would require their price from me. Indignant at the
+      imposition they were about to practise upon me, I was about to raise my
+      whip to flog them out of the camp, when again Mabruki, with a roaring
+      voice, bade me beware, for every blow would cost me three or four doti of
+      cloth. As I did not care to gratify my anger at such an expense, I was
+      compelled to swallow my wrath, and consequently the Wagogo escaped
+      chastisement.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We halted for one day at this place, which was a great relief to me, as I
+      was suffering severely from intermittent fever, which lasted in this case
+      two weeks, and entirely prevented my posting my diary in full, as was my
+      custom every evening after a march.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Sultan of Bihawana, though his subjects were evil-disposed, and
+      ready-handed at theft and murder, contented himself with three doti as
+      honga. From this chief I received news of my fourth caravan, which had
+      distinguished itself in a fight with some outlawed subjects of his; my
+      soldiers had killed two who had attempted, after waylaying a couple of my
+      pagazis, to carry away a bale of cloth and a bag of beads; coming up in
+      time, the soldiers decisively frustrated the attempt. The Sultan thought
+      that if all caravans were as well guarded as mine were, there would be
+      less depredations committed on them while on the road; with which I
+      heartily agreed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next sultan's tembe through whose territory we marched, this being on
+      the 30th May, was at Kididimo, but four miles from Bihawna. The road led
+      through a flat elongated plain, lying between two lengthy hilly ridges,
+      thickly dotted with the giant forms of the baobab. Kididimo is exceedingly
+      bleak in aspect. Even the faces of the Wagogo seemed to have contracted a
+      bleak hue from the general bleakness around. The water of the pits
+      obtained in the neighbourhood had an execrable flavor, and two donkeys
+      sickened and died in less than an hour from its effects. Man suffered
+      nausea and a general irritability of the system, and accordingly revenged
+      himself by cursing the country and its imbecile ruler most heartily. The
+      climax came, however, when Bombay reported, after an attempt to settle the
+      Muhongo, that the chief's head had grown big since he heard that the
+      Musungu had come, and that its "bigness" could not be reduced unless he
+      could extract ten doti as tribute. Though the demand was large, I was not
+      in a humour&mdash;being feeble, and almost nerveless, from repeated
+      attacks of the Mukunguru&mdash;to dispute the sum: consequently it was
+      paid without many words. But the Arabs continued the whole afternoon
+      negotiating, and at the end had to pay eight doti each.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Between Kididimo and Nyambwa, the district of the Sultan Pembera Pereh,
+      was a broad and lengthy forest and jungle inhabited by the elephant,
+      rhinoceros, zebra, deer, antelope, and giraffe. Starting at dawn of the
+      31st; we entered the jungle, whose dark lines and bosky banks were clearly
+      visible from our bower at Kididimo; and, travelling for two hours, halted
+      for rest and breakfast, at pools of sweet water surrounded by tracts of
+      vivid green verdure, which were a great resort for the wild animals of the
+      jungle, whose tracks were numerous and recent. A narrow nullah, shaded
+      deeply with foliage, afforded excellent retreats from the glaring
+      sunshine. At meridian, our thirst quenched, our hunger satisfied, our
+      gourds refilled, we set out from the shade into the heated blaze of hot
+      noon. The path serpentined in and out of jungle, and thin forest, into
+      open tracts of grass bleached white as stubble, into thickets of gums and
+      thorns, which emitted an odour as rank as a stable; through clumps of
+      wide-spreading mimosa and colonies of baobab, through a country teeming
+      with noble game, which, though we saw them frequently, were yet as safe
+      from our rifles as if we had been on the Indian Ocean. A terekeza, such as
+      we were now making, admits of no delay. Water we had left behind at noon:
+      until noon of the next day not a drop was to be obtained; and unless we
+      marched fast and long on this day, raging thirst would demoralize
+      everybody. So for six long weary hours we toiled bravely; and at sunset we
+      camped, and still a march of two hours, to be done before the sun was an
+      hour high, intervened between us and our camp at Nyambwa. That night the
+      men bivouacked under the trees, surrounded by many miles of dense forest,
+      enjoying the cool night unprotected by hat or tent, while I groaned and
+      tossed throughout the night in a paroxysm of fever.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The morn came; and, while it was yet young, the long caravan, or string of
+      caravans, was under way. It was the same forest, admitting, on the narrow
+      line which we threaded, but one man at a time. Its view was as limited. To
+      our right and left the forest was dark and deep. Above was a riband of
+      glassy sky flecked by the floating nimbus. We heard nothing save a few
+      stray notes from a flying bird, or the din of the caravans as the men
+      sang, or hummed, or conversed, or shouted, as the thought struck them that
+      we were nearing water. One of my pagazis, wearied and sick, fell, and
+      never rose again. The last of the caravan passed him before he died.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At 7 A.M. we were encamped at Nyambwa, drinking the excellent water found
+      here with the avidity of thirsty camels. Extensive fields of grain had
+      heralded the neighbourhood of the villages, at the sight of which we were
+      conscious that the caravan was quickening its pace, as approaching its
+      halting-place. As the Wasungu drew within the populated area, crowds of
+      Wagogo used their utmost haste to see them before they passed by. Young
+      and old of both genders pressed about us in a multitude&mdash;a very
+      howling mob. This excessive demonstrativeness elicited from my sailor
+      overseer the characteristic remark, "Well, I declare, these must be the
+      genuine Ugogians, for they stare! stare&mdash;there is no end to their
+      staring. I'm almost tempted to slap 'em in the face!" In fact, the conduct
+      of the Wagogo of Nyambwa was an exaggeration of the general conduct of
+      Wagogo. Hitherto, those we had met had contented themselves with staring
+      and shouting; but these outstepped all bounds, and my growing anger at
+      their excessive insolence vented itself in gripping the rowdiest of them
+      by the neck, and before he could recover from his astonishment
+      administering a sound thrashing with my dog-whip, which he little
+      relished. This proceeding educed from the tribe of starers all their
+      native power of vituperation and abuse, in expressing which they were
+      peculiar. Approaching in manner to angry tom-cats, they jerked their words
+      with something of a splitting hiss and a half bark. The ejaculation, as
+      near as I can spell it phonetically, was "hahcht" uttered in a shrill
+      crescendo tone. They paced backwards and forwards, asking themselves, "Are
+      the Wagoga to be beaten like slaves by this Musungu? A Mgogo is a Mgwana
+      (a free man); he is not used to be beaten,&mdash;hahcht." But whenever I
+      made motion, flourishing my whip, towards them, these mighty braggarts
+      found it convenient to move to respectable distances from the irritated
+      Musungu.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Perceiving that a little manliness and show of power was something which
+      the Wagogo long needed, and that in this instance it relieved me from
+      annoyance, I had recourse to my whip, whose long lash cracked like a
+      pistol shot, whenever they overstepped moderation. So long as they
+      continued to confine their obtrusiveness to staring, and communicating to
+      each other their opinions respecting my complexion, and dress, and
+      accoutrements, I philosophically resigned myself in silence for their
+      amusement; but when they pressed on me, barely allowing me to proceed, a
+      few vigorous and rapid slashes right and left with my serviceable thong,
+      soon cleared the track.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Pembera Pereh is a queer old man, very small, and would be very
+      insignificant were he not the greatest sultan in Ugogo; and enjoying a
+      sort of dimediate power over many other tribes. Though such an important
+      chief, he is the meanest dressed of his subjects,&mdash;is always filthy,&mdash;ever
+      greasy&mdash;eternally foul about the mouth; but these are mere
+      eccentricities: as a wise judge, he is without parallel, always has a
+      dodge ever ready for the abstraction of cloth from the spiritless Arab
+      merchants, who trade with Unyanyembe every year; and disposes with ease of
+      a judicial case which would overtask ordinary men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sheikh Hamed, who was elected guider of the united caravans now travelling
+      through Ugogo, was of such a fragile and small make, that he might be
+      taken for an imitation of his famous prototype "Dapper." Being of such
+      dimensions, what he lacked for weight and size he made up by activity. No
+      sooner had he arrived in camp than his trim dapper form was seen frisking
+      about from side to side of the great boma, fidgeting, arranging,
+      disturbing everything and everybody. He permitted no bales or packs to be
+      intermingled, or to come into too close proximity to his own; he had a
+      favourite mode of stacking his goods, which he would see carried out; he
+      had a special eye for the best place for his tent, and no one else must
+      trespass on that ground. One would imagine that walking ten or fifteen
+      miles a day, he would leave such trivialities to his servants, but no,
+      nothing could be right unless he had personally superintended it; in which
+      work he was tireless and knew no fatigue.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another not uncommon peculiarity pertained to Sheikh Hamed; as he was not
+      a rich man, he laboured hard to make the most of every shukka and doti
+      expended, and each fresh expenditure seemed to gnaw his very vitals: he
+      was ready to weep, as he himself expressed it, at the high prices of
+      Ugogo, and the extortionate demands of its sultans. For this reason, being
+      the leader of the caravans, so far as he was able we were very sure not to
+      be delayed in Ugogo, where food was so dear.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The day we arrived at Nyambwa will be remembered by Hamed as long as he
+      lives, for the trouble and vexation which he suffered. His misfortunes
+      arose from the fact that, being too busily engaged in fidgeting about the
+      camp, he permitted his donkeys to stray into the matama fields of Pembera
+      Pereh, the Sultan. For hours he and his servants sought for the stray
+      donkeys, returning towards evening utterly unsuccessful, Hamed bewailing,
+      as only an Oriental can do, when hard fate visits him with its
+      inflictions, the loss of a hundred do dollars worth of Muscat donkeys.
+      Sheikh Thani, older, more experienced, and wiser, suggested to him that he
+      should notify the Sultan of his loss. Acting upon the sagacious advice,
+      Hamed sent an embassy of two slaves, and the information they brought back
+      was, that Pembera Pereh's servants had found the two donkeys eating the
+      unripened matama, and that unless the Arab who owned them would pay nine
+      doti of first-class cloths, he, Pembera Pereh, would surely keep them to
+      remunerate him for the matama they had eaten. Hamed was in despair. Nine
+      doti of first-class cloths, worth $25 in Unyanyembe, for half a chukka's
+      worth of grain, was, as he thought, an absurd demand; but then if he did
+      not pay it, what would become of the hundred dollars' worth of donkeys? He
+      proceeded to the Sultan to show him the absurdity of the damage claim, and
+      to endeavour to make him accept one chukka, which would be more than
+      double the worth of what grain the donkeys had consumed. But the Sultan
+      was sitting on pombe; he was drunk, which I believe to be his normal state&mdash;too
+      drunk to attend to business, consequently his deputy, a renegade
+      Mnyamwezi, gave ear to the business. With most of the Wagogo chiefs lives
+      a Mnyamwezi, as their right-hand man, prime minister, counsellor,
+      executioner, ready man at all things save the general good; a sort of
+      harlequin Unyamwezi, who is such an intriguing, restless, unsatisfied
+      person, that as soon as one hears that this kind of man forms one of and
+      the chief of a Mgogo sultan's council, one feels very much tempted to do
+      damage to his person. Most of the extortions practised upon the Arabs are
+      suggested by these crafty renegades. Sheikh Hamed found that the Mnyamwezi
+      was far more obdurate than the Sultan&mdash;nothing under nine doti
+      first-class cloths would redeem the donkeys. The business that day
+      remained unsettled, and the night following was, as one may imagine, a
+      very sleepless one to Hamed. As it turned out, however, the loss of the
+      donkeys, the after heavy fine, and the sleepless night, proved to be
+      blessings in disguise; for, towards midnight, a robber Mgogo visited his
+      camp, and while attempting to steal a bale of cloth, was detected in the
+      act by the wide-awake and irritated Arab, and was made to vanish instantly
+      with a bullet whistling in close proximity to his ear.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From each of the principals of the caravans, the Mnyamwezi had received as
+      tribute for his drunken master fifteen doti, and from the other six
+      caravans six doti each, altogether fifty-one doti, yet on the next morning
+      when we took the road he was not a whit disposed to deduct a single cloth
+      from the fine imposed on Hamed, and the unfortunate Sheikh was therefore
+      obliged to liquidate the claim, or leave his donkeys behind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After travelling through the corn-fields of Pembera Pereh we emerged upon
+      a broad flat plain, as level as the still surface of a pond, whence the
+      salt of the Wagogo is obtained. From Kanyenyi on the southern road, to
+      beyond the confines of Uhumba and Ubanarama, this saline field extends,
+      containing many large ponds of salt bitter water whose low banks are
+      covered with an effervescence partaking of the nature of nitrate.
+      Subsequently, two days afterwards, having ascended the elevated ridge
+      which separates Ugogo from Uyanzi, I obtained a view of this immense
+      saline plain, embracing over a hundred square miles. I may have been
+      deceived, but I imagined I saw large expanses of greyish-blue water, which
+      causes me to believe that this salina is but a corner of a great salt
+      lake. The Wahumba, who are numerous, from Nyambwa to the Uyanzi border,
+      informed my soldiers that there was a "Maji Kuba" away to the north.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mizanza, our next camp after Nyambwa, is situated in a grove of palms,
+      about thirteen miles from the latter place. Soon after arriving I had to
+      bury myself under blankets, plagued with the same intermittent fever which
+      first attacked me during the transit of Marenga Mkali. Feeling certain
+      that one day's halt, which would enable me to take regular doses of the
+      invaluable sulphate of quinine, would cure me, I requested Sheikh Thani to
+      tell Hamed to halt on the morrow, as I should be utterly unable to
+      continue thus long, under repeated attacks of a virulent disease which was
+      fast reducing me into a mere frame of skin and bone. Hamed, in a hurry to
+      arrive at Unyanyembe in order to dispose of his cloth before other
+      caravans appeared in the market, replied at first that he would not, that
+      he could not, stop for the Musungu. Upon Thani's reporting his answer to
+      me, I requested him to inform Hamed that, as the Musungu did not wish to
+      detain him, or any other caravan, it was his express wish that Hamed would
+      march and leave him, as he was quite strong enough in guns to march
+      through Ugogo alone. Whatever cause modified the Sheikh's resolution and
+      his anxiety to depart, Hamed's horn signal for the march was not heard
+      that night, and on the morrow he had not gone.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Early in the morning I commenced on my quinine doses; at 6 A.M. I took a
+      second dose; before noon I had taken four more&mdash;altogether, fifty
+      measured grains-the effect of which was manifest in the copious
+      perspiration which drenched flannels, linen, and blankets. After noon I
+      arose, devoutly thankful that the disease which had clung to me for the
+      last fourteen days had at last succumbed to quinine.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On this day the lofty tent, and the American flag which ever flew from the
+      centre pole, attracted the Sultan of Mizanza towards it, and was the cause
+      of a visit with which he honoured me. As he was notorious among the Arabs
+      for having assisted Manwa Sera in his war against Sheikh Sny bin Amer,
+      high eulogies upon whom have been written by Burton, and subsequently by
+      Speke, and as he was the second most powerful chief in Ugogo, of course he
+      was quite a curiosity to me. As the tent-door was uplifted that he might
+      enter, the ancient gentleman was so struck with astonishment at the lofty
+      apex, and internal arrangements, that the greasy Barsati cloth which
+      formed his sole and only protection against the chills of night and the
+      heat of noon, in a fit of abstraction was permitted to fall down to his
+      feet, exposing to the Musungu's unhallowed gaze the sad and aged wreck of
+      what must once have been a towering form. His son, a youth of about
+      fifteen, attentive to the infirmities of his father, hastened with filial
+      duty to remind him of his condition, upon which, with an idiotic titter at
+      the incident, he resumed his scanty apparel and sat down to wonder and
+      gibber out his admiration at the tent and the strange things which formed
+      the Musungu's personal baggage and furniture. After gazing in stupid
+      wonder at the table, on which was placed some crockery and the few books I
+      carried with me; at the slung hammock, which he believed was suspended by
+      some magical contrivance; at the portmanteaus which contained my stock of
+      clothes, he ejaculated, "Hi-le! the Musungu is a great sultan, who has
+      come from his country to see Ugogo." He then noticed me, and was again
+      wonder-struck at my pale complexion and straight hair, and the question
+      now propounded was, "How on earth was I white when the sun had burned his
+      people's skins into blackness?" Whereupon he was shown my cork topee,
+      which he tried on his woolly head, much to his own and to our amusement.
+      The guns were next shown to him; the wonderful repeating rifle of the
+      Winchester Company, which was fired thirteen times in rapid succession to
+      demonstrate its remarkable murderous powers. If he was astonished before
+      he was a thousand times more so now, and expressed his belief that the
+      Wagogo could not stand before the Musungu in battle, for wherever a Mgogo
+      was seen such a gun would surely kill him. Then the other firearms were
+      brought forth, each with its peculiar mechanism explained, until, in, a
+      burst of enthusiasm at my riches and power, he said he would send me a
+      sheep or goat, and that he would be my brother. I thanked him for the
+      honour, and promised to accept whatever he was pleased to send me. At the
+      instigation of Sheikh Thani, who acted as interpreter, who said that
+      Wagogo chiefs must not depart with empty hands, I cut off a shukka of
+      Kaniki and presented it to him, which, after being examined and measured,
+      was refused upon the ground that, the Musungu being a great sultan should
+      not demean himself so much as to give him only a shukka. This, after the
+      twelve doti received as muhongo from the caravans, I thought, was rather
+      sore; but as he was about to present me with a sheep or goat another
+      shukka would not matter much.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Shortly after he departed, and true to his promise, I received a large,
+      fine sheep, with a broad tail, heavy with fat; but with the words: "That
+      being now his brother, I must send him three doti of good cloth." As the
+      price of a sheep is but a doti and a half, I refused the sheep and the
+      fraternal honour, upon the ground that the gifts were all on one side; and
+      that, as I had paid muhongo, and given him a doti of Kaniki as a present,
+      I could not, afford to part with any more cloth without an adequate
+      return.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During the afternoon one more of my donkeys died, and at night the hyaenas
+      came in great numbers to feast upon the carcase. Ulimengo, the chasseur,
+      and best shot of my Wangwana, stole out and succeeded in shooting two,
+      which turned out to be some of the largest of their kind.. One of them
+      measured six feet from the tip of the nose to the extremity of the tail,
+      and three feet around the girth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 4th. June we struck camp, and after travelling westward for about
+      three miles, passing several ponds of salt water, we headed north by west,
+      skirting the range of low hills which separates Ugogo from Uyanzi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a three hours' march, we halted for a short time at Little
+      Mukondoku, to settle tribute with the brother of him who rules at
+      Mukondoku Proper. Three doti satisfied the Sultan, whose district contains
+      but two villages, mostly occupied by pastoral Wahumba and renegade Wahehe.
+      The Wahumba live in plastered (cow-dung) cone huts, shaped like the tartar
+      tents of Turkestan.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wahumba, so far as I have seen them, are a fine and well-formed race.
+      The men are positively handsome, tall, with small heads, the posterior
+      parts of which project considerably. One will look in vain for a thick lip
+      or a flat nose amongst them; on the contrary, the mouth is exceedingly
+      well cut, delicately small; the nose is that of the Greeks, and so
+      universal was the peculiar feature, that I at once named them the Greeks
+      of Africa. Their lower limbs have not the heaviness of the Wagogo and
+      other tribes, but are long and shapely, clean as those of an antelope.
+      Their necks are long and slender, on which their small heads are poised
+      most gracefully. Athletes from their youth, shepherd bred, and
+      intermarrying among themselves, thus keeping the race pure, any of them
+      would form a fit subject for the sculptor who would wish to immortalize in
+      marble an Antinous, a Hylas, a Daphnis, or an Apollo. The women are as
+      beautiful as the men are handsome. They have clear ebon skins, not
+      coal-black, but of an inky hue. Their ornaments consist of spiral rings of
+      brass pendent from the ears, brass ring collars about the necks, and a
+      spiral cincture of brass wire about their loins for the purpose of
+      retaining their calf and goat skins, which are folded about their bodies,
+      and, depending from the shoulder, shade one half of the bosom, and fall to
+      the knees.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wahehe may be styled the Romans of Africa. Resuming our march, after a
+      halt of an hour, in foul hours more we arrived at Mukondoku Proper. This
+      extremity of Ugogo is most populous, The villages which surround the
+      central tembe, where the Sultan Swaruru lives, amount to thirty-six. The
+      people who flocked from these to see the wonderful men whose faces were
+      white, who wore the most wonderful things on their persons, and possessed
+      the most wonderful weapons; guns which "bum-bummed" as fast as you could
+      count on your fingers, formed such a mob of howling savages, that I for an
+      instant thought there was something besides mere curiosity which caused
+      such commotion, and attracted such numbers to the roadside. Halting, I
+      asked what was the matter, and what they wanted, and why they made such
+      noise? One burly rascal, taking my words for a declaration of hostilities,
+      promptly drew his bow, but as prompt as he had fixed his arrow my faithful
+      Winchester with thirteen shots in the magazine was ready and at the
+      shoulder, and but waited to see the arrow fly to pour the leaden
+      messengers of death into the crowd. But the crowd vanished as quickly as
+      they had come, leaving the burly Thersites, and two or three irresolute
+      fellows of his tribe, standing within pistol range of my levelled rifle.
+      Such a sudden dispersion of the mob which, but a moment before, was
+      overwhelming in numbers, caused me to lower my rifle, and to indulge in a
+      hearty laugh at the disgraceful flight of the men-destroyers. The Arabs,
+      who were as much alarmed at their boisterous obtrusiveness, now came up to
+      patch a truce, in which they succeeded to everybody's satisfaction. A few
+      words of explanation, and the mob came back in greater numbers than
+      before; and the Thersites who had been the cause of the momentary
+      disturbance was obliged to retire abashed before the pressure of public
+      opinion. A chief now came up, whom I afterwards learned was the second man
+      to Swaruru, and lectured the people upon their treatment of the "White
+      Stranger."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Know ye not, Wagogo," shouted he, "that this Musungu is a sultan (mtemi&mdash;a
+      most high title). He has not come to Ugogo like the Wakonongo (Arabs), to
+      trade in ivory, but to see us, and give presents. Why do you molest him
+      and his people? Let them pass in peace. If you wish to see him, draw near,
+      but do not mock him. The first of you who creates a disturbance, let him
+      beware; our great mtemi shall know how you treat his friends." This little
+      bit of oratorical effort on the part of the chief was translated to me
+      there and then by the old Sheik Thani; which having understood, I bade the
+      Sheikh inform the chief that, after I had rested, I should like him to
+      visit me in my tent.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having arrived at the khambi, which always surrounds some great baobab in
+      Ugogo, at the distance of about half a mile from the tembe of the Sultan,
+      the Wagogo pressed in such great numbers to the camp that Sheikh Thani
+      resolved to make an effort to stop or mitigate the nuisance. Dressing
+      himself in his best clothes, he went to appeal to the Sultan for
+      protection against his people. The Sultan was very much inebriated, and
+      was pleased to say, "What is it you want, you thief? You have come to
+      steal my ivory or my cloth. Go away, thief!" But the sensible chief, whose
+      voice had just been heard reproaching the people for their treatment of
+      the Wasungu, beckoned to Thani to come out of the tembe, and then
+      proceeded with him towards the khambi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The camp was in a great uproar; the curious Wagogo monopolized almost
+      every foot of ground; there was no room to turn anywhere. The Wanyamwezi
+      were quarreling with the Wagogo, the Wasawahili servants were clamoring
+      loud that the Wagogo pressed down their tents, and that the property of
+      the masters was in danger; while I, busy on my diary within my tent, cared
+      not how great was the noise and confusion outside as long as it confined
+      itself to the Wagogo, Wanyamwezi, and Wangwana.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The presence of the chief in the camp was followed by a deep silence that
+      I was prevailed upon to go outside to see what had caused it. The chief's
+      words were few, and to the point. He said, "To your tembes, Wagogo&mdash;to
+      your tembes! Why, do you come to trouble the Wakonongo: What have you to
+      do with them? To your tembes: go! Each Mgogo found in the khambi without
+      meal, without cattle to sell, shall pay to the mtemi cloth or cows. Away
+      with you!" Saying which, he snatched up a stick and drove the hundreds out
+      of the khambi, who were as obedient to him as so many children. During the
+      two days we halted at Mukondoku we saw no more of the mob, and there was
+      peace.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The muhongo of the Sultan Swaruru was settled with few words. The chief
+      who acted for the Sultan as his prime minister having been "made glad"
+      with a doti of Rehani Ulyah from me, accepted the usual tribute of six
+      doti, only one of which was of first-class cloth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There remained but one more sultan to whom muhongo must be paid after
+      Mukondoku, and this was the Sultan of Kiwyeh, whose reputation was so bad
+      that owners of property who had control over their pagazis seldom passed
+      by Kiwyeh, preferring the hardships of long marches through the wilderness
+      to the rudeness and exorbitant demands of the chief of Kiwyeh. But the
+      pagazis, on whom no burden or responsibility fell save that of carrying
+      their loads, who could use their legs and show clean heels in the case of
+      a hostile outbreak, preferred the march to Kiwyeh to enduring thirst and
+      the fatigue of a terekeza. Often the preference of the pagazis won the
+      day, when their employers were timid, irresolute men, like Sheikh Hamed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The 7th of June was the day fixed for our departure from Mukondoku, so the
+      day before, the Arabs came to my tent to counsel with me as to the route
+      we should adopt. On calling together the kirangozis of the respective
+      caravans and veteran Wanyamwezi pagazis, we learned there were three roads
+      leading from Mukondoku to Uyanzi. The first was the southern road, and the
+      one generally adopted, for the reasons already stated, and led by Kiwyeh.
+      To this Hamed raised objections. "The Sultan was bad," he said; "he
+      sometimes charged a caravan twenty doti; our caravan would have to pay
+      about sixty doti. The Kiwyeh road would not do at all. Besides," he added,
+      "we have to make a terekeza to reach Kiwyeh, and then we will not reach it
+      before the day after to-morrow." The second was the central road. We
+      should arrive at Munieka on the morrow; the day after would be a terekeza
+      from Mabunguru Nullah to a camp near Unyambogi; two hours the next day
+      would bring us to Kiti, where there was plenty of water and food. As
+      neither of the kirangozis or Arabs knew this road, and its description
+      came from one of my ancient pagazis, Hamed said he did not like to trust
+      the guidance of such a large caravan in the hands of an old Mnyamwezi, and
+      would therefore prefer to hear about the third road, before rendering his
+      decision. The third road was the northern. It led past numerous villages
+      of the Wagogo for the first two hours; then we should strike a jungle; and
+      a three hours' march would then bring us to Simbo, where there was water,
+      but no village. Starting early next morning, we would travel six hours
+      when we would arrive at a pool of water. Here taking a short rest, an
+      afternoon march of five hours would bring us within three hours of another
+      village. As this last road was known to many, Hamed said, "Sheikh Thani,
+      tell the Sahib that I think this is the best road." Sheikh Thani was told,
+      after he had informed me that, as I had marched with them through Ugogo,
+      if they decided upon going by Simbo, my caravan would follow.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Immediately after the discussion among the principals respecting the
+      merits of the several routes, arose a discussion among the pagazis which
+      resulted in an obstinate clamor against the Simbo road, for its long
+      terekeza and scant prospects of water, the dislike to the Simbo road
+      communicated itself to all the caravans, and soon it was magnified by
+      reports of a wilderness reaching from Simbo to Kusuri, where there was
+      neither food nor water to be obtained. Hamed's pagazis, and those of the
+      Arab servants, rose in a body and declared they could not go on that
+      march, and if Hamed insisted upon adopting it they would put their packs
+      down and leave him to carry them himself.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hamed Kimiani, as he was styled by the Arabs, rushed up to Sheikh Thani,
+      and declared that he must take the Kiwyeh road, otherwise his pagazis
+      would all desert. Thani replied that all the roads were the same to him,
+      that wherever Hamed chose to go, he would follow. They then came to my
+      tent, and informed me of the determination at which the Wanyamwezi had
+      arrived. Calling my veteran Mnyamwezi, who had given me the favourable
+      report once more to my tent, I bade him give a correct account of the Kiti
+      road. It was so favourable that my reply to Hamed was, that I was the
+      master of my caravan, that it was to go wherever I told the kirangozi, not
+      where the pagazis chose; that when I told them to halt they must halt, and
+      when I commanded a march, a march should be made; and that as I fed them
+      well and did not overwork them, I should like to see the pagazi or soldier
+      that disobeyed me. "You made up your mind just now that you would take the
+      Simbo road, and we were agreed upon it, now your pagazis say they will
+      take, the Kiwyeh road, or desert. Go on the Kiwyeh road and pay twenty
+      doti muhongo. I and my caravan to-morrow morning will take the Kiti road,
+      and when you find me in Unyanyembe one day ahead of you, you will be sorry
+      you did not take the same road."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This resolution of mine had the effect of again changing the current of
+      Hamed's thoughts, for he instantly said, "That is the best road after all,
+      and as the Sahib is determined to go on it, and we have all travelled
+      together through the bad land of the Wagogo, Inshallah! let us all go the
+      same way," and Thani=-good old man&mdash;not objecting, and Hamed having
+      decided, they both joyfully went out of the tent to communicate the news.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 7th the caravans&mdash;apparently unanimous that the Kiti road was
+      to be taken&mdash;were led as usual by Hamed's kirangozi. We had barely
+      gone a mile before I perceived that we had left the Simbo road, had taken
+      the direction of Kiti, and, by a cunning detour, were now fast approaching
+      the defile of the mountain ridge before us, which admitted access to the
+      higher plateau of Kiwyeh. Instantly halting my caravan, I summoned the
+      veteran who had travelled by Kiti, and asked him whether we were not going
+      towards Kiwyeh. He replied that we were. Calling my pagazis together, I
+      bade Bombay tell them that the Musuugu never changed his mind; that as I
+      had said my caravan should march by Kiti; to Kiti it must go whether the
+      Arabs followed or not. I then ordered the veteran to take up his load and
+      show the kirangozi the proper road to Kiti. The Wanyamwezi pagazis put
+      down their bales, and then there was every indication of a mutiny. The
+      Wangwana soldiers were next ordered to load their guns and to flank the
+      caravan, and shoot the first pagazis who made an attempt to run away.
+      Dismounting, I seized my whip, and, advancing towards the first pagazi who
+      had put down his load, I motioned to him to take up his load and march. It
+      was unnecessary to proceed further; without an exception, all marched away
+      obediently after the kirangozi. I was about bidding farewell to Thani, and
+      Hamed, when Thani said, "Stop a bit, Sahib; I have had enough of this
+      child's play; I come with you," and his caravan was turned after mine.
+      Hamed's caravan was by this time close to the defile, and he himself was a
+      full mile behind it, weeping like a child at what he was pleased to call
+      our desertion of him. Pitying his strait&mdash;for he was almost beside
+      himself as thoughts of Kiwyeh's sultan, his extortion and rudeness, swept
+      across his mind&mdash;I advised him to run after his caravan, and tell it,
+      as all the rest had taken the other road, to think of the Sultan of
+      Kiwyeh. Before reaching the Kiti defile I was aware that Hamed's caravan
+      was following us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ascent of the ridge was rugged and steep, thorns of the prickliest
+      nature punished us severely, the <i>acacia horrida</i> was here more
+      horrid than usual, the gums stretched out their branches, and entangled
+      the loads, the mimosa with its umbrella-like top served to shade us from
+      the sun, but impeded a rapid advance. Steep outcrops of syenite and
+      granite, worn smooth by many feet, had to be climbed over, rugged terraces
+      of earth and rock had to be ascended, and distant shots resounding through
+      the forest added to the alarm and general discontent, and had I not been
+      immediately behind my caravan, watchful of every manoeuvre, my Wanyamwezi
+      had deserted to a man. Though the height we ascended was barely 800 feet
+      above the salina we had just left, the ascent occupied two hours.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having surmounted the plateau and the worst difficulties, we had a fair
+      road comparatively, which ran through jungle, forest, and small open
+      tracts, which in three hours more brought us to Munieka, a small village,
+      surrounded by a clearing richly cultivated by a colony of subjects of
+      Swaruru of Mukondoku.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By the time we had arrived at camp everybody had recovered his good humour
+      and content except Hamed. Thani's men happened to set his tent too close
+      to Hamed's tree, around which his bales were stacked. Whether the little
+      Sheikh imagined honest old Thani capable of stealing one is not known, but
+      it is certain that he stormed and raved about the near neighbourhood of
+      his best friend's tent, until Thani ordered its removal a hundred yards
+      off. This proceeding even, it seems, did not satisfy Hamed, for it was
+      quite midnight&mdash;as Thani said&mdash;when Hamed came, and kissing his
+      hands and feet, on his knees implored forgiveness, which of course Thani,
+      being the soul of good-nature, and as large-hearted as any man, willingly
+      gave. Hamed was not satisfied, however, until, with the aid of his slaves,
+      he had transported his friend's tent to where it had at first been
+      pitched.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The water at Munieka was obtained from a deep depression in a hump of
+      syenite, and was as clear as crystal, and' cold as ice-water&mdash;a
+      luxury we had not experienced since leaving Simbamwenni.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were now on the borders of Uyanzi, or, as it is better known, "Magunda
+      Mkali "&mdash;the Hot-ground, or Hot-field. We had passed the village
+      populated by Wagogo, and were about to shake the dust of Ugogo from our
+      feet. We had entered Ugogo full of hopes, believing it a most pleasant
+      land&mdash;a land flowing with milk and honey. We had been grievously
+      disappointed; it proved to be a land of gall and bitterness, full of
+      trouble and vexation of spirit, where danger was imminent at every step&mdash;where
+      we were exposed to the caprice of inebriated sultans. Is it a wonder,
+      then, that all felt happy at such a moment? With the prospect before us of
+      what was believed by many to be a real wilderness, our ardor was not
+      abated, but was rather strengthened. The wilderness in Africa proves to
+      be, in many instances, more friendly than the populated country. The
+      kirangozi blew his kudu horn much more merrily on this morning than he was
+      accustomed to do while in Ugogo. We were about to enter Magunda Mkali. At
+      9 A.M., three hours after leaving Munieka, and two hours since we had left
+      the extreme limits of Ugogo, we were halted at Mabunguru Nullah. The
+      Nullah runs southwesterly after leaving its source in the chain of hills
+      dividing Ugogo from Magunda Mkali. During the rainy season it must be
+      nearly impassable, owing to the excessive slope of its bed. Traces of the
+      force of the torrent are seen in the syenite and basalt boulders which
+      encumber the course. Their rugged angles are worn smooth, and deep basins
+      are excavated where the bed is of the rock, which in the dry season serve
+      as reservoirs. Though the water contained in them has a slimy and greenish
+      appearance, and is well populated with frogs, it is by no means
+      unpalatable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At noon we resumed our march, the Wanyamwezi cheering, shouting, and
+      singing, the Wangwana soldiers, servants, and pagazis vieing with them in
+      volume of voice and noise-making the dim forest through which we were now
+      passing resonant with their voices.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The scenery was much more picturesque than any we had yet seen since
+      leaving Bagamoyo. The ground rose into grander waves&mdash;hills cropped
+      out here and there&mdash;great castles of syenite appeared, giving a
+      strange and weird appearance to the forest. From a distance it would
+      almost seem as if we were approaching a bit of England as it must have
+      appeared during feudalism; the rocks assumed such strange fantastic
+      shapes. Now they were round boulders raised one above another, apparently
+      susceptible to every breath of wind; anon, they towered like blunt-pointed
+      obelisks, taller than the tallest trees; again they assumed the shape of
+      mighty waves, vitrified; here, they were a small heap of fractured and
+      riven rock; there, they rose to the grandeur of hills.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By 5 P.M. we had travelled twenty miles, and the signal was sounded for a
+      halt. At 1 A.M., the moon being up, Hamed's horn and voice were heard
+      throughout the silent camp awaking his pagazis for the march. Evidently
+      Sheikh Hamed was gone stark mad, otherwise why should he be so frantic for
+      the march at such an early hour? The dew was falling heavily, and chilled
+      one like frost; and an ominous murmur of deep discontent responded to the
+      early call on all sides. Presuming, however, that he had obtained better
+      information than we had, Sheikh Thani and I resolved to be governed as the
+      events proved him to be right or wrong.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As all were discontented, this night, march was performed in deep silence.
+      The thermometer was at 53°, we being about 4,500 feet above the level of
+      the sea. The pagazis, almost naked, walked quickly in order to keep warm,
+      and by so doing many a sore foot was made by stumbling against obtrusive
+      roots and rocks, and treading on thorns. At 3 A.M. we arrived at the
+      village of Unyambogi, where we threw ourselves down to rest and sleep
+      until dawn should reveal what else was in store for the hard-dealt-with
+      caravans.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was broad daylight when I awoke; the sun was flaring his hot beams in
+      my face. Sheikh Thani came soon after to inform me that Hamed had gone to
+      Kiti two hours since; but he, when asked to accompany him, positively
+      refused, exclaiming against it as folly, and utterly unnecessary. When my
+      advice was asked by Thani, I voted the whole thing as sheer nonsense; and,
+      in turn, asked him what a terekeza was for? Was it not an afternoon march
+      to enable caravans to reach water and food? Thani replied than it was. I
+      then asked him if there was no water or food to be obtained in Unyambogi.
+      Thani replied that he had not taken pains to inquire, but was told by the
+      villagers that there was an abundance of matamia, hindi, maweri, sheep;
+      goats, and chickens in their village at cheap prices, such as were not
+      known in Ugogo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, then," said I, "if Hamed wants to be a fool, and kill his pagazis,
+      why should we? I have as much cause for haste as Sheikh Hamed; but
+      Unyanyembe is far yet, and I am not going to endanger my property by
+      playing the madman."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As Thani had reported, we found an abundance of provisions at the village,
+      and good sweet water from some pits close by. A sheep cost one chukka; six
+      chickens were also purchased at that price; six measures of matama,
+      maweri, or hindi, were procurable for the same sum; in short, we were
+      coming, at last, into the land of plenty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 10th June we arrived at Kiti after a journey of four hours and a
+      half, where we found the irrepressible Hamed halted in sore trouble. He
+      who would be a Caesar, proved to be an irresolute Antony. He had to sorrow
+      over the death of a favourite slave girl, the loss of five dish-dashes
+      (Arab shirts), silvered-sleeve and gold-embroidered jackets, with which he
+      had thought to enter Unyanyembe in state, as became a merchant of his
+      standing, which had disappeared with three absconding servants, besides
+      copper trays, rice, and pilau dishes, and two bales of cloth with runaway
+      Wangwana pagazis. Selim, my Arab servant, asked him, "What are you doing
+      here, Sheikh Hamed? I thought you were well on the road to Unyanyembe."
+      Said he, "Could I leave Thani, my friend, behind?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kiti abounded in cattle and grain, and we were able to obtain food at easy
+      rates. The Wakimbu, emigrants from Ukimbu, near Urori, are a quiet race,
+      preferring the peaceful arts of agriculture to war; of tending their
+      flocks to conquest. At the least rumor of war they remove their property
+      and family, and emigrate to the distant wilderness, where they begin to
+      clear the land, and to hunt the elephant for his ivory. Yet we found them
+      to be a fine race, and well armed, and seemingly capable, by their numbers
+      and arms, to compete with any tribe. But here, as elsewhere, disunion
+      makes them weak. They are mere small colonies, each colony ruled by its
+      own chief; whereas, were they united, they might make a very respectable
+      front before an enemy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our next destination was Msalalo, distant fifteen miles from Kiti. Hamed,
+      after vainly searching for his runaways and the valuable property he had
+      lost, followed us, and tried once more, when he saw us encamped at
+      Msalalo, to pass us; but his pagazis failed him, the march having been so
+      long.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Welled Ngaraiso was reached on the 15th, after a three and a half hours'
+      march. It is a flourishing little place, where provisions were almost
+      twice as cheap as they were at Unyambogi. Two hours' march south is Jiweh
+      la Mkoa, on the old road, towards which the road which we have been
+      travelling since leaving Bagamoyo was now rapidly leading.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Unyanyembe being near, the pagazis and soldiers having behaved excellently
+      during the lengthy marches we had lately made, I purchased a bullock for
+      three doti, and had it slaughtered for their special benefit. I also gave
+      each a khete of red beads to indulge his appetite for whatever little
+      luxury the country afforded. Milk and honey were plentiful, and three
+      frasilah of sweet potatoes were bought for a shukka, equal to about 40
+      cents of our money.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The 13th June brought us to the last village of Magunda Mkali, in the
+      district of Jiweh la Singa, after a short march of eight miles and
+      three-quarters. Kusuri&mdash;so called by the Arabs&mdash;is called
+      Konsuli by the Wakimbu who inhabit it. This is, however, but one instance
+      out of many where the Arabs have misnamed or corrupted the native names of
+      villages and districts.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Between Ngaraiso and Kusuri we passed the village of Kirurumo, now a
+      thriving place, with many a thriving village near it. As we passed it, the
+      people came out to greet the Musungu, whose advent had been so long
+      heralded by his loud-mouthed caravans, and whose soldiers had helped them
+      win the day in a battle against their fractious brothers of Jiweh la Mkoa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little further on we came across a large khambi, occupied by Sultan bin
+      Mohammed, an Omani Arab of high descent, who, as soon as he was notified
+      of my approach, came out to welcome me, and invite me to his khambi. As
+      his harem lodged in his tent, of course I was not invited thither; but a
+      carpet outside was ready for his visitor. After the usual questions had
+      been asked about my health, the news of the road, the latest from Zanzibar
+      and Oman, he asked me if I had much cloth with me. This was a question
+      often asked by owners of down caravans, and the reason of it is that the
+      Arabs, in their anxiety to make as much as possible of their cloth at the
+      ivory ports on the Tanganika and elsewhere, are liable to forget that they
+      should retain a portion for the down marches. As, indeed, I had but a bale
+      left of the quantity of cloth retained for provisioning my party on the
+      road, when outfitting my caravans on the coast, I could unblushingly reply
+      in the negative.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I halted a day at Kusuri to give my caravan a rest, after its long series
+      of marches, before venturing on the two days' march through the
+      uninhabited wilderness that separates the district of Jiweh la Singa
+      Uyanzi from the district of Tura in Unyanyembe. Hamed preceded, promising
+      to give Sayd bin Salim notice of my coming, and to request him to provide
+      a tembe for me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 15th, having ascertained that Sheikh Thani would be detained
+      several days at Kusuri, owing to the excessive number of his people who
+      were laid up with that dreadful plague of East Africa, the small-pox, I
+      bade him farewell, and my caravan struck out of Kusuri once more for the
+      wilderness and the jungle. A little before noon we halted at the Khambi of
+      Mgongo Tembo, or the Elephant's Back&mdash;so called from a wave of rock
+      whose back, stained into dark brownness by atmospheric influences, is
+      supposed by the natives to resemble the blue-brown back of this monster of
+      the forest. My caravan had quite an argument with me here, as to whether
+      we should make the terekeza on this day or on the next. The majority was
+      of the opinion that the next day would be the best for a terekeza; but I,
+      being the "bana," consulting my own interests, insisted, not without a
+      flourish or two of my whip, that the terekeza should be made on this day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mgongo Tembo, when Burton and Speke passed by, was a promising settlement,
+      cultivating many a fair acre of ground. But two years ago war broke out,
+      for some bold act of its people upon caravans, and the Arabs came from
+      Unyanyembe with their Wangwana servants, attacked them, burnt the
+      villages, and laid waste the work of years. Since that time Mgongo Tembo
+      has been but blackened wrecks of houses, and the fields a sprouting
+      jungle.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A cluster of date palm-trees, overtopping a dense grove close to the mtoni
+      of Mgongo Tembo, revived my recollections of Egypt. The banks of the
+      stream, with their verdant foliage, presented a strange contrast to the
+      brown and dry appearance of the jungle which lay on either side.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At 1 P.M. we resumed our loads and walking staffs, and in a short time
+      were en route for the Ngwhalah Mtoni, distant eight and three-quarter
+      miles from the khambi. The sun was hot; like a globe of living, seething
+      flame, it flared its heat full on our heads; then as it descended towards
+      the west, scorched the air before it was inhaled by the lungs which craved
+      it. Gourds of water were emptied speedily to quench the fierce heat that
+      burned the throat and lungs. One pagazi, stricken heavily with the
+      small-pox, succumbed, and threw himself down on the roadside to die. We
+      never saw him afterwards, for the progress of a caravan on a terekeza, is
+      something like that of a ship in a hurricane. The caravan must proceed&mdash;woe
+      befall him who lags behind, for hunger and thirst will overtake him&mdash;so
+      must a ship drive before the fierce gale to escape foundering&mdash;woe
+      befall him who falls overboard!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      An abundance of water, good, sweet, and cool, was found in the bed of the
+      mtoni in deep stony reservoirs. Here also the traces of furious torrents
+      were clearly visible as at Mabunguru.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Nghwhalah commences in Ubanarama to the north&mdash;a country famous
+      for its fine breed of donkeys&mdash;and after running south,
+      south-south-west, crosses the Unyanyembe road, from which point it has
+      more of a westerly turn.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 16th we arrived at Madedita, so called from a village which was,
+      but is now no more. Madedita is twelve and a half miles from the Nghwhalah
+      Mtoni. A pool of good water a few hundred yards from the roadside is the
+      only supply caravans can obtain, nearer than Tura in Unyamwezi. The tsetse
+      or chufwa-fly, as called by the Wasawahili, stung us dreadfully, which is
+      a sign that large game visit the pool sometimes, but must not be mistaken
+      for an indication that there is any in the immediate neighbourhood of the
+      water. A single pool so often frequented by passing caravans, which must
+      of necessity halt here, could not be often visited by the animals of the
+      forest, who are shy in this part of Africa of the haunts of man.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At dawn the neat day we were on the road striding at a quicker pace than
+      on most days, since we were about to quit Magunda Mali for the more
+      populated and better land of Unyamwezi. The forest held its own for a
+      wearisomely long time, but at the end of two hours it thinned, then
+      dwarfed into low jungle, and finally vanished altogether, and we had
+      arrived on the soil of Unyamwezi, with a broad plain, swelling, subsiding,
+      and receding in lengthy and grand undulations in our front to one
+      indefinite horizontal line which purpled in the far distance. The view
+      consisted of fields of grain ripening, which followed the contour of the
+      plain, and which rustled merrily before the morning breeze that came laden
+      with the chills of Usagara.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At 8 A.M. we had arrived at the frontier village of Unyamwezi, Eastern
+      Tura, which we invaded without any regard to the disposition of the few
+      inhabitants who lived there. Here we found Nondo, a runaway of Speke's,
+      one of those who had sided with Baraka against Bombay, who, desiring to
+      engage himself with me, was engaging enough to furnish honey and sherbet
+      to his former companions, and lastly to the pagazis. It was only a short
+      breathing pause we made here, having another hour's march to reach Central
+      Tura.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The road from Eastern Tura led through vast fields of millet, Indian corn,
+      holcus sorghum, maweri, or panicum, or bajri, as called by the Arabs;
+      gardens of sweet potatoes, large tracts of cucumbers, water-melons,
+      mush-melons, and pea-nuts which grew in the deep furrows between the
+      ridges of the holcus.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some broad-leafed plantain plants were also seen in the neighbourhood of
+      the villages, which as we advanced became very numerous. The villages of
+      the Wakimbu are like those of the Wagogo, square, flat-roofed, enclosing
+      an open area, which is sometimes divided into three or four parts by
+      fences or matama stalks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At central Tura, where we encamped, we had evidence enough of the
+      rascality of the Wakimbu of Tura. Hamed, who, despite his efforts to reach
+      Unyanyembe in time to sell his cloths before other Arabs came with cloth
+      supplies, was unable to compel his pagazis to the double march every day,
+      was also encamped at Central Tura, together with the Arab servants who
+      preferred Hamed's imbecile haste to Thani's cautious advance. Our first
+      night in Unyamwezi was very exciting indeed. The Musungu's camp was
+      visited by two crawling thieves, but they were soon made aware by the
+      portentous click of a trigger that the white man's camp was well guarded.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hamed's camp was next visited; but here also the restlessness of the owner
+      frustrated their attempts, for he was pacing backwards and forwards
+      through his camp, with a loaded gun in his hand; and the thieves were
+      obliged to relinquish the chance of stealing any of his bales. From
+      Hamed's they proceeded to Hassan's camp (one of the Arab servants), where
+      they were successful enough to reach and lay hold of a couple of bales;
+      but, unfortunately, they made a noise, which awoke the vigilant and
+      quick-eared slave, who snatched his loaded musket, and in a moment had
+      shot one of them through the heart. Such were our experiences of the
+      Wakimbu of Tura.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 18th the three caravans, Hamed's, Hassan's, and my own, left Tura
+      by a road which zig-zagged towards all points through the tall matama
+      fields. In an hour's time we had passed Tura Perro, or Western Tura, and
+      had entered the forest again, whence the Wakimbu of Tura obtain their
+      honey, and where they excavate deep traps for the elephants with which the
+      forest is said to abound. An hour's march from Western Tura brought us to
+      a ziwa, or pond. There were two, situated in the midst of a small open
+      mbuga, or plain, which, even at this late season, was yet soft from the
+      water which overflows it during the rainy season. After resting three
+      hours, we started on the terekeza, or afternoon march.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was one and the same forest that we had entered soon after leaving
+      Western Tura, that we travelled through until we reached the Kwala Mtoni,
+      or, as Burton has misnamed it on his map, "Kwale." The water of this mtoni
+      is contained in large ponds, or deep depressions in the wide and crooked
+      gully of Kwala. In these ponds a species of mud-fish, was found, off one
+      of which I made a meal, by no means to be despised by one who had not
+      tasted fish since leaving Bagamoyo. Probably, if I had my choice, being,
+      when occasion demands it, rather fastidious in my tastes, I would not
+      select the mud-fish.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From Tura to the Kwala Mtoni is seventeen and a half miles, a distance
+      which, however easy it may be traversed once a fortnight, assumes a
+      prodigious length when one has to travel it almost every other day, at
+      least, so my pagazis, soldiers, and followers found it, and their murmurs
+      were very loud when I ordered the signal to be sounded on the march. Abdul
+      Kader, the tailor who had attached himself to me, as a man ready-handed at
+      all things, from mending a pair of pants, making a delicate entremets, or
+      shooting an elephant, but whom the interior proved to be the weakliest of
+      the weakly, unfit for anything except eating and drinking&mdash;-almost
+      succumbed on this march.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Long ago the little stock of goods which Abdul had brought from Zanzibar
+      folded in a pocket-handkerchief, and with which he was about to buy ivory
+      and slaves, and make his fortune in the famed land of Unyamwezi, had
+      disappeared with the great eminent hopes he had built on them, like those
+      of Alnaschar the unfortunate owner of crockery in the Arabian tale. He
+      came to me as we prepared for the march, with a most dolorous tale about
+      his approaching death, which he felt in his bones, and weary back: his
+      legs would barely hold him up; in short, he had utterly collapsed&mdash;would
+      I take mercy on him, and let him depart? The cause of this extraordinary
+      request, so unlike the spirit with which he had left Zanzibar, eager to
+      possess the ivory and slaves of Unyamwezi, was that on the last long
+      march, two of my donkeys being dead, I had ordered that the two saddles
+      which they had carried should be Abdul Kader's load to Unyanyembe. The
+      weight of the saddles was 16 lbs., as the spring balance-scale indicated,
+      yet Abdul Kader became weary of life, as, he counted the long marches that
+      intervened between the mtoni and Unyanyembe. On the ground he fell prone,
+      to kiss my feet, begging me in the name of God to permit him to depart.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As I had had some experience of Hindoos, Malabarese, and coolies in
+      Abyssinia, I knew exactly how to deal with a case like this.
+      Unhesitatingly I granted the request as soon as asked, for as much tired
+      as Abdul Kader said he was of life, I was with Abdul Kader's
+      worthlessness. But the Hindi did not want to be left in the jungle, he
+      said, but, after arriving in Unyanyembe. "Oh," said I, "then you must
+      reach Unyanyembe first; in the meanwhile you will carry those saddles
+      there for the food which you must eat."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As the march to Rubuga was eighteen and three-quarter miles, the pagazis
+      walked fast and long without resting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rubuga, in the days of Burton, according to his book, was a prosperous
+      district. Even when we passed, the evidences of wealth and prosperity
+      which it possessed formerly, were plain enough in the wide extent of its
+      grain fields, which stretched to the right and left of the Unyanyembe road
+      for many a mile. But they were only evidences of what once were numerous
+      villages, a well-cultivated and populous district, rich in herds of cattle
+      and stores of grain. All the villages are burnt down, the people have been
+      driven north three or four days from Rubuga, the cattle were taken by
+      force, the grain fields were left standing, to be overgrown with jungle
+      and rank weeds. We passed village after village that had been burnt, and
+      were mere blackened heaps of charred timber and smoked clay; field after
+      field of grain ripe years ago was yet standing in the midst of a crop of
+      gums and thorns, mimosa and kolquall.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We arrived at the village, occupied by about sixty Wangwana, who have
+      settled here to make a living by buying and selling ivory. Food is
+      provided for them in the deserted fields of the people of Rubuga. We were
+      very tired and heated from the long march, but the pagazis had all arrived
+      by 3 p.m.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the Wangwana village we met Amer bin Sultan, the very type of an old
+      Arab sheikh, such as we read of in books, with a snowy beard, and a clean
+      reverend face, who was returning to Zanzibar after a ten years' residence
+      in Unyanyembe. He presented me with a goat; and a goatskin full of rice; a
+      most acceptable gift in a place where a goat costs five cloths.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a day's halt at Rubuga, during which I despatched soldiers to notify
+      Sheikh Sayd bin Salim and Sheikh bin Nasib, the two chief dignitaries of
+      Unyanyembe, of my coming, on the 21st of June we resumed the march for
+      Kigwa, distant five hours. The road ran through another forest similar to
+      that which separated Tura from Rubuga, the country rapidly sloping as we
+      proceeded westward. Kigwa we found to have been visited by the same
+      vengeance which rendered Rubuga such a waste.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day, after a three and a half hours' rapid march, we crossed the
+      mtoni&mdash;which was no mtoni&mdash;separating Kigwa from Unyanyembe
+      district, and after a short halt to quench our thirst, in three and a half
+      hours more arrived at Shiza. It was a most delightful march, though a long
+      one, for its picturesqueness of scenery which every few minutes was
+      revealed, and the proofs we everywhere saw of the peaceable and
+      industrious disposition of the people. A short half hour from Shiza we
+      beheld the undulating plain wherein the Arabs have chosen to situate the
+      central depot which commands such wide and extensive field of trade. The
+      lowing of cattle and the bleating of the goats and sheep were everywhere
+      heard, giving the country a happy, pastoral aspect.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Sultan of Shiza desired me to celebrate my arrival in Unyanyembe, with
+      a five-gallon jar of pombe, which he brought for that purpose.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As the pombe was but stale ale in taste, and milk and water in colour,
+      after drinking a small glassful I passed it to the delighted soldiers and
+      pagazis. At my request the Sultan brought a fine fat bullock, for which he
+      accepted four and a half doti of Merikani. The bullock was immediately
+      slaughtered and served out to the caravan as a farewell feast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      No one slept much that night, and long before the dawn the fires were lit,
+      and great steaks were broiling, that their stomachs might rejoice before
+      parting with the Musungu, whose bounty they had so often tasted. Six
+      rounds of powder were served to each soldier and pagazi who owned a gun,
+      to fire away when we should be near the Arab houses. The meanest pagazi
+      had his best cloth about his loins, and some were exceedingly brave in
+      gorgeous Ulyah "Coombeesa Poonga" and crimson "Jawah," the glossy
+      "Rehani," and the neat "Dabwani." The soldiers were mustered in new
+      tarbooshes, and the long white shirts of the Mrima and the Island. For
+      this was the great and happy day which had been on our tongues ever since
+      quitting the coast, for which we had made those noted marches latterly&mdash;one
+      hundred and seventy-eight and a half miles in sixteen days, including
+      pauses&mdash;something over eleven miles a day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The signal sounded and the caravan was joyfully off with banners flying,
+      and trumpets and horns blaring. A short two and a half hours' march
+      brought us within sight of Kwikuru, which is about two miles south of
+      Tabora, the main Arab town; on the outside of which we saw a long line of
+      men in clean shirts, whereat we opened our charged batteries, and fired a
+      volley of small arms such as Kwikuru seldom heard before. The pagazis
+      closed up and adopted the swagger of veterans: the soldiers blazed away
+      uninterruptedly, while I, seeing that the Arabs were advancing towards me,
+      left the ranks, and held out my hand, which was immediately grasped by
+      Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, and then by about two dozen people, and thus our
+      entrée into Unyanyembe was effected.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER VIII. &mdash; MY LIFE AND TROUBLES DURING MY RESIDENCE IN UNYAS
+      NYEMBE. I BECOME ENGAGED IN A WAR.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      I received a noiseless ovation as I walked side by side with the governor,
+      Sayd bin Salim, towards his tembe in Kwikuru, or the capital. The
+      Wanyamwezi pagazis were out by hundreds, the warriors of Mkasiwa, the
+      sultan, hovered around their chief, the children were seen between the
+      legs of their parents, even infants, a few months old, slung over their
+      mothers' backs, all paid the tribute due to my colour, with one grand
+      concentrated stare. The only persons who talked with me were the Arabs,
+      and aged Mkasiwa, ruler of Unyanyembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sayd bin Salim's house was at the north-western corner of the inclosure, a
+      stockaded boma of Kwikuru. We had tea made in a silver tea-pot, and a
+      bountiful supply of "dampers" were smoking under a silver cover; and to
+      this repast I was invited. When a man has walked eight miles or so without
+      any breakfast, and a hot tropical sun has been shining on him for three or
+      four hours, he is apt to do justice to a meal, especially if his appetite
+      is healthy. I think I astonished the governor by the dexterous way in
+      which I managed to consume eleven cups of his aromatic concoction of an
+      Assam herb, and the easy effortless style with which I demolished his high
+      tower of "slap jacks," that but a minute or so smoked hotly under their
+      silver cover.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For the meal, I thanked the Sheikh, as only an earnest and sincerely
+      hungry man, now satisfied, could thank him. Even if I had not spoken, my
+      gratified looks had well informed him, under what obligations I had been
+      laid to him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Out came my pipe and tobacco-pouch.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "My friendly Sheikh, wilt thou smoke?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "No, thanks! Arabs never smoke."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh, if you don't, perhaps you would not object to me smoking, in order to
+      assist digestion?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Ngema&mdash;good&mdash;go on, master."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Then began the questions, the gossipy, curious, serious, light questions:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How came the master?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "By the Mpwapwa road."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "It is good. Was the Makata bad?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Very bad."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "What news from Zanzibar?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Good; Syed Toorkee has possession of Muscat, and Azim bin Ghis was slain
+      in the streets."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Is this true, Wallahi?" (by God.)
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "It is true."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Heh-heh-h! This is news!"&mdash;stroking his beard.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Have you heard, master, of Suleiman bin Ali?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes, the Bombay governor sent him to Zanzibar, in a man-of-war, and
+      Suleiman bin Ali now lies in the gurayza (fort)."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Heh, that is very good."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Did you have to pay much tribute to the Wagogo?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Eight times; Hamed Kimiani wished me to go by Kiwyeh, but I declined, and
+      struck through the forest to Munieka. Hamed and Thani thought it better to
+      follow me, than brave Kiwyeh by themselves."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Where is that Hajji Abdullah (Captain Burton) that came here, and Spiki?"
+      (Speke.)
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Hajji Abdullah! What Hajji Abdullah? Ah! Sheikh Burton we call him. Oh,
+      he is a great man now; a balyuz (a consul) at El Scham" (Damascus.)
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Heh-heh; balyuz! Heh, at El Scham! Is not that near Betlem el Kuds?"
+      (Jerusalem.)
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes, about four days. Spiki is dead. He shot himself by accident."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Ah, ah, Wallah (by God), but this is bad news. Spiki dead? Mash-Allah!
+      Ough, he was a good man&mdash;a good man! Dead!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "But where is this Kazeh, Sheikh Sayd?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Kazeh? Kazeh? I never heard the name before."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "But you were with Burton, and Speke, at Kazeh; you lived there several
+      months, when you were all stopping in Unyanyembe; it must be close here;
+      somewhere. Where did Hajji Abdullah and Spiki live when they were in
+      Unyanyembe? Was it not in Musa Mzuri's house?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "That was in Tabora."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, then, where is Kazeh? I have never seen the man yet who could tell
+      me where that place is, and yet the three white men have that word down,
+      as the name of the place they lived at when you were with them. You must
+      know where it is."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Wallahi, bana, I never heard the name; but stop, Kazeh, in Kinyamwezi,
+      means 'kingdom.' Perhaps they gave that name to the place they stopped at.
+      But then, I used to call the first house Sny bin Amer's house, and Speke
+      lived at Musa Mzuri's house, but both houses, as well as all the rest, are
+      in Tabora."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Thank you, sheikh. I should like to go and look after my people; they
+      must all be wanting food."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I shall go with you to show you your house. The tembe is in Kwihara, only
+      an hour's walk from Tabora."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On leaving Kwikuru we crossed a low ridge, and soon saw Kwihara lying
+      between two low ranges of hills, the northernmost of which was terminated
+      westward by the round fortress-like hill of Zimbili. There was a cold
+      glare of intense sunshine over the valley, probably the effect of an
+      universal bleakness or an autumnal ripeness of the grass, unrelieved by
+      any depth of colour to vary the universal sameness. The hills were
+      bleached, or seemed to be, under that dazzling sunshine, and clearest
+      atmosphere. The corn had long been cut, and there lay the stubble, and
+      fields,&mdash;a browny-white expanse; the houses were of mud, and their
+      fiat roofs were of mud, and the mud was of a browny-whiteness; the huts
+      were thatched, and the stockades around them of barked timber, and these
+      were of a browny whiteness. The cold, fierce, sickly wind from the
+      mountains of Usagara sent a deadly chill to our very marrows, yet the
+      intense sunshiny glare never changed, a black cow or two, or a tall tree
+      here and there, caught the eye for a moment, but they never made one
+      forget that the first impression of Kwihara was as of a picture without
+      colour, or of food without taste; and if one looked up, there was a sky of
+      a pale blue, spotless, and of an awful serenity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As I approached the tembe of Sayd bin Salim, Sheikh bin Nasib and other
+      great Arabs joined us. Before the great door of the tembe the men had
+      stacked the bales, and piled the boxes, and were using their tongues at a
+      furious rate, relating to the chiefs and soldiers of the first, second,
+      and fourth caravans the many events which had befallen them, and which
+      seemed to them the only things worth relating. Outside of their own
+      limited circles they evidently cared for nothing. Then the several chiefs
+      of the other caravans had in turn to relate their experiences of the road;
+      and the noise of tongues was loud and furious. But as we approached, all
+      this loud-sounding gabble ceased, and my caravan chiefs and guides rushed
+      to me to hail me as "master," and to salute me as their friend. One
+      fellow, faithful Baruti, threw himself at my feet, the others fired their
+      guns and acted like madmen suddenly become frenzied, and a general cry of
+      "welcome" was heard on all sides.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Walk in, master, this is your house, now; here are your men's quarters;
+      here you will receive the great Arabs, here is the cook-house; here is the
+      store-house; here is the prison for the refractory; here are your white
+      man's apartments; and these are your own: see, here is the bedroom, here
+      is the gun-room, bath-room, &amp;c.;" so Sheikh Sayd talked, as he showed
+      me the several places.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On my honour, it was a most comfortable place, this, in Central Africa.
+      One could almost wax poetic, but we will keep such ambitious ideas for a
+      future day. Just now, however, we must have the goods stored, and the
+      little army of carriers paid off and disbanded.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Bombay was ordered to unlock the strong store-room, to pile the bales in
+      regular tiers, the beads in rows one above another, and the wire in a
+      separate place. The boats, canvas, &amp;c., were to be placed high above
+      reach of white ants, and the boxes of ammunition and powder kegs were to
+      be stored in the gun-room, out of reach of danger. Then a bale of cloth
+      was opened, and each carrier was rewarded according to his merits, that
+      each of them might proceed home to his friends and neighbours, and tell
+      them how much better the white man behaved than the Arabs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The reports of the leaders of the first, second, and fourth caravans were
+      then received, their separate stores inspected, and the details and events
+      of their marches heard. The first caravan had been engaged in a war at
+      Kirurumo, and had come out of the fight successful, and had reached
+      Unyanyembe without loss of anything. The second had shot a thief in the
+      forest between Pembera Pereh and Kididimo; the fourth had lost a bale in
+      the jungle of Marenga Mkali, and the porter who carried it had received a
+      "very sore head" from a knob stick wielded by one of the thieves, who
+      prowl about the jungle near the frontier of Ugogo. I was delighted to find
+      that their misfortunes were no more, and each leader was then and there
+      rewarded with one handsome cloth, and five doti of Merikani.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Just as I began to feel hungry again, came several slaves in succession,
+      bearing trays full of good things from the Arabs; first an enormous dish
+      of rice, with a bowlful of curried chicken, another with a dozen huge
+      wheaten cakes, another with a plateful of smoking hot crullers, another
+      with papaws, another with pomegranates and lemons; after these came men
+      driving five fat hump backed oxen, eight sheep, and ten goats, and another
+      man with a dozen chickens, and a dozen fresh eggs. This was real,
+      practical, noble courtesy, munificent hospitality, which quite took my
+      gratitude by storm.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My people, now reduced to twenty-five, were as delighted at the prodigal
+      plenitude visible on my tables and in my yard, as I was myself. And as I
+      saw their eyes light up at the unctuous anticipations presented to them by
+      their riotous fancies, I ordered a bullock to be slaughtered and
+      distributed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The second day of the arrival of the Expedition in the country which I now
+      looked upon as classic ground, since Capts. Burton, Speke, and Grant years
+      ago had visited it, and described it, came the Arab magnates from Tabora
+      to congratulate me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Tabora* is the principal Arab settlement in Central Africa. It contains
+      over a thousand huts and tembes, and one may safely estimate the
+      population, Arabs, Wangwana, and natives, at five thousand people. Between
+      Tabora and the next settlement, Kwihara, rise two rugged hill ridges,
+      separated from each other by a low saddle, over the top of which Tabora is
+      always visible from Kwihara. ________________ * There is no such
+      recognised place as Kazeh. ________________
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were a fine, handsome body of men, these Arabs. They mostly hailed
+      from Oman: others were Wasawahili; and each of my visitors had quite a
+      retinue with him. At Tabora they live quite luxuriously. The plain on
+      which the settlement is situated is exceedingly fertile, though naked of
+      trees; the rich pasturage it furnishes permits them to keep large herds of
+      cattle and goats, from which they have an ample supply of milk, cream,
+      butter, and ghee. Rice is grown everywhere; sweet potatoes, yams, muhogo,
+      holcus sorghum, maize, or Indian corn, sesame, millet, field-peas, or
+      vetches, called choroko, are cheap, and always procurable. Around their
+      tembes the Arabs cultivate a little wheat for their own purposes, and have
+      planted orange, lemon, papaw, and mangoes, which thrive here fairly well.
+      Onions and garlic, chilies, cucumbers, tomatoes, and brinjalls, may be
+      procured by the white visitor from the more important Arabs, who are
+      undoubted epicureans in their way. Their slaves convey to them from the
+      coast, once a year at least, their stores of tea, coffee sugar, spices,
+      jellies, curries, wine, brandy, biscuits, sardines, salmon, and such fine
+      cloths and articles as they require for their own personal use. Almost
+      every Arab of any eminence is able to show a wealth of Persian carpets,
+      and most luxurious bedding, complete tea and coffee-services, and
+      magnificently carved dishes of tinned copper and brass lavers. Several of
+      them sport gold watches and chains, mostly all a watch and chain of some
+      kind. And, as in Persia, Afghanistan, and Turkey, the harems form an
+      essential feature of every Arab's household; the sensualism of the
+      Mohammedans is as prominent here as in the Orient.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Arabs who now stood before the front door of my tembe were the donors
+      of the good things received the day before. As in duty bound, of course, I
+      greeted Sheikh Sayd first, then Sheikh bin Nasib, his Highness of
+      Zanzibar's consul at Karagwa, then I greeted the noblest Trojan amongst
+      the Arab population, noblest in bearing, noblest in courage and manly
+      worth&mdash;Sheikh Khamis bin Abdullah; then young Amram bin Mussoud, who
+      is now making war on the king of Urori and his fractious people; then
+      handsome, courageous Soud, the son of Sayd bin Majid; then dandified Thani
+      bin Abdullah; then Mussoud bin Abdullah and his cousin Abdullah bin
+      Mussoud, who own the houses where formerly lived Burton and Speke; then
+      old Suliman Dowa, Sayd bin Sayf, and the old Hetman of Tabora&mdash;Sheikh
+      Sultan bin Ali.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As the visit of these magnates, under whose loving protection white
+      travellers must needs submit themselves, was only a formal one, such as
+      Arab etiquette, ever of the stateliest and truest, impelled them to, it is
+      unnecessary to relate the discourse on my health, and their wealth, my
+      thanks, and their professions of loyalty, and attachment to me. After
+      having expended our mutual stock of congratulations and nonsense, they
+      departed, having stated their wish that I should visit them at Tabora and
+      partake of a feast which they were about to prepare for me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Three days afterwards I sallied out of my tembe, escorted by eighteen
+      bravely dressed men of my escort, to pay Tabora a visit. On surmounting
+      the saddle over which the road from the valley of Kwihara leads to Tabora,
+      the plain on which the Arab settlement is situated lay before us, one
+      expanse of dun pasture land, stretching from the base of the hill on our
+      left as far as the banks of the northern Gombe, which a few miles beyond
+      Tabora heave into purple-coloured hills and blue cones.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Within three-quarters of an hour we were seated on the mud veranda of the
+      tembe of Sultan bin Ali, who, because of his age, his wealth, and position&mdash;being
+      a colonel in Seyd Burghash's unlovely army&mdash;is looked upon by his
+      countrymen, high and low, as referee and counsellor. His boma or enclosure
+      contains quite a village of hive-shaped huts and square tembes. From here,
+      after being presented with a cup of Mocha coffee, and some sherbet, we
+      directed our steps towards Khamis bin Abdullah's house, who had, in
+      anticipation of my coming, prepared a feast to which he had invited his
+      friends and neighbours. The group of stately Arabs in their long white
+      dresses, and jaunty caps, also of a snowy white, who stood ready to
+      welcome me to Tabora, produced quite an effect on my mind. I was in time
+      for a council of war they were holding&mdash;and I was requested to
+      attend.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Khamis bin Abdullah, a bold and brave man, ever ready to stand up for the
+      privileges of the Arabs, and their rights to pass through any countries
+      for legitimate trade, is the man who, in Speke's 'Journal of the Discovery
+      of the Source of the Nile,' is reported to have shot Maula, an old chief
+      who sided with Manwa Sera during the wars of 1860; and who subsequently,
+      after chasing his relentless enemy for five years through Ugogo and
+      Unyamwezi as far as Ukonongo, had the satisfaction of beheading him, was
+      now urging the Arabs to assert their rights against a chief called Mirambo
+      of Uyoweh, in a crisis which was advancing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This Mirambo of Uyoweh, it seems, had for the last few years been in a
+      state of chronic discontent with the policies of the neighbouring chiefs.
+      Formerly a pagazi for an Arab, he had now assumed regal power, with the
+      usual knack of unconscionable rascals who care not by what means they step
+      into power. When the chief of Uyoweh died, Mirambo, who was head of a gang
+      of robbers infesting the forests of Wilyankuru, suddenly entered Uyoweh,
+      and constituted himself lord paramount by force. Some feats of enterprise,
+      which he performed to the enrichment of all those who recognised his
+      authority, established him firmly in his position. This was but a
+      beginning; he carried war through Ugara to Ukonongo, through Usagozi to
+      the borders of Uvinza, and after destroying the populations over three
+      degrees of latitude, he conceived a grievance against Mkasiwa, and against
+      the Arabs, because they would not sustain him in his ambitious projects
+      against their ally and friend, with whom they were living in peace.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first outrage which this audacious man committed against the Arabs was
+      the halting of an Ujiji-bound caravan, and the demand for five kegs of
+      gunpowder, five guns, and five bales of cloth. This extraordinary demand,
+      after expending more than a day in fierce controversy, was paid; but the
+      Arabs, if they were surprised at the exorbitant black-mail demanded of
+      them, were more than ever surprised when they were told to return the way
+      they came; and that no Arab caravan should pass through his country to
+      Ujiji except over his dead body.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the return of the unfortunate Arabs to Unyanyembe, they reported the
+      facts to Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, the governor of the Arab colony. This old
+      man, being averse to war, of course tried every means to induce Mirambo as
+      of old to be satisfied with presents; but Mirambo this time was obdurate,
+      and sternly determined on war unless the Arabs aided him in the warfare he
+      was about to wage against old Mkasiwa, sultan of the Wanyamwezi of
+      Unyanyembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "This is the status of affairs," said Khamis bin Abdullah. "Mirambo says
+      that for years he has been engaged in war against the neighbouring
+      Washensi and has come out of it victorious; he says this is a great year
+      with him; that he is going to fight the Arabs, and the Wanyamwezi of
+      Unyanyembe, and that he shall not stop until every Arab is driven from
+      Unyanyembe, and he rules over this country in place of Mkasiwa. Children
+      of Oman, shall it be so? Speak, Salim, son of Sayf, shall we go to meet
+      this Mshensi (pagan) or shall we return to our island?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A murmur of approbation followed the speech of Khamis bin Abdullah, the
+      majority of those present being young men eager to punish the audacious
+      Mirambo. Salim, the son of Sayf, an old patriarch, slow of speech, tried
+      to appease the passions of the young men, scions of the aristocracy of
+      Muscat and Muttrah, and Bedaweens of the Desert, but Khamis's bold words
+      had made too deep an impression on their minds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Soud, the handsome Arab whom I have noticed already as the son of Sayd the
+      son of Majid, spoke: "My father used to tell me that he remembered the
+      days when the Arabs could go through the country from Bagamoyo to Ujiji,
+      and from Kilwa to Lunda, and from Usenga to Uganda armed with canes. Those
+      days are gone by. We have stood the insolence of the Wagogo long enough.
+      Swaruru of Usui just takes from us whatever he wants; and now, here is
+      Mirambo, who says, after taking more than five bales of cloth as tribute
+      from one man, that no Arab caravan shall go to Ujiji, but over his body.
+      Are we prepared to give up the ivory of Ujiji, of Urundi, of Karagwah, of
+      Uganda, because of this one man? I say war&mdash;war until we have got his
+      beard under our feet&mdash;war until the whole of Uyoweh and Wilyankuru is
+      destroyed&mdash;war until we can again travel through any part of the
+      country with only our walking canes in our hands!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The universal assent that followed Send's speech proved beyond a doubt
+      that we were about to have a war. I thought of Livingstone. What if he
+      were marching to Unyanyembe directly into the war country?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having found from the Arabs that they intended to finish the war quickly&mdash;at
+      most within fifteen days, as Uyoweh was only four marches distant&mdash;I
+      volunteered to accompany them, take my loaded caravan with me as far as
+      Mfuto, and there leave it in charge of a few guards, and with the rest
+      march on with the Arab army. And my hope was, that it might be possible,
+      after the defeat of Mirambo, and his forest banditti&mdash;the Ruga-Ruga&mdash;to
+      take my Expedition direct to Ujiji by the road now closed. The Arabs were
+      sanguine of victory, and I partook of their enthusiasm.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The council of war broke up. A great dishful of rice and curry, in which
+      almonds, citron, raisins, and currants were plentifully mixed, was brought
+      in, and it was wonderful how soon we forgot our warlike fervor after our
+      attention had been drawn to this royal dish. I, of course, not being a
+      Mohammedan, had a dish of my own, of a similar composition, strengthened
+      by platters containing roast chicken, and kabobs, crullers, cakes,
+      sweetbread, fruit, glasses of sherbet and lemonade, dishes of gum-drops
+      and Muscat sweetmeats, dry raisins, prunes, and nuts. Certainly Khamis bin
+      Abdullah proved to me that if he had a warlike soul in him, he could also
+      attend to the cultivated tastes acquired under the shade of the mangoes on
+      his father's estates in Zanzibar&mdash;the island.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After gorging ourselves on these uncommon dainties some of the chief Arabs
+      escorted me to other tembes of Tabora. When we went to visit Mussoud bin
+      Abdullah, he showed me the very ground where Burton and Speke's house
+      stood&mdash;now pulled down and replaced by his office&mdash;Sny bin
+      Amer's house was also torn down, and the fashionable tembe of Unyanyembe,
+      now in vogue, built over it,&mdash;finely-carved rafters&mdash;huge carved
+      doors, brass knockers, and lofty airy rooms&mdash;a house built for
+      defence and comfort.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The finest house in Unyanyembe belongs to Amram bin Mussoud, who paid
+      sixty frasilah of ivory&mdash;over $3,000&mdash;for it. Very fair houses
+      can be purchased for from twenty to thirty frasilah of ivory. Amram's
+      house is called the "Two Seas"&mdash;"Baherein." It is one hundred feet in
+      length, and twenty feet high, with walls four feet thick, neatly plastered
+      over with mud mortar. The great door is a marvel of carving-work for
+      Unyanyembe artisans. Each rafter within is also carved with fine designs.
+      Before the front of the house is a young plantation of pomegranate trees,
+      which flourish here as if they were indigenous to the soil. A shadoof,
+      such as may be seen on the Nile, serves to draw water to irrigate the
+      gardens.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Towards evening we walked back to our own finely situated tembe in
+      Kwihara, well satisfied with what we had seen at Tabora. My men drove a
+      couple of oxen, and carried three sacks of native rice&mdash;a most
+      superior kind&mdash;the day's presents of hospitality from Khamis bin
+      Abdullah.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In Unyanyembe I found the Livingstone caravan, which started off in a
+      fright from Bagamoyo upon the rumour that the English Consul was coming.
+      As all the caravans were now halted at Unyanyembe because of the now
+      approaching war, I suggested to Sayd bin Salim, that it were better that
+      the men of the Livingstone caravan should live with mine in my tembe, that
+      I might watch over the white man's goods. Sayd bin Salim agreed with me,
+      and the men and goods were at once brought to my tembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One day Asmani, who was now chief of Livingstone's caravan, the other
+      having died of small-pox, two or three days before, brought out a tent to
+      the veranda where, I was sitting writing, and shewed me a packet of
+      letters, which to my surprise was marked:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "To Dr. Livingstone,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Ujiji,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "November 1st, 1870.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Registered letters."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From November 1st, 1870, to February 10, 1871, just one hundred days, at
+      Bagamoyo! A miserable small caravan of thirty-three men halting one
+      hundred days at Bagamoyo, only twenty-five miles by water from Zanzibar!
+      Poor Livingstone! Who knows but he maybe suffering for want of these very
+      supplies that were detained so long near the sea. The caravan arrived in
+      Unyanyembe some time about the middle of May. About the latter part of May
+      the first disturbances took place. Had this caravan arrived here in the
+      middle of March, or even the middle of April, they might have travelled on
+      to Ujiji without trouble.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 7th of July, about 2 P.M., I was sitting on the burzani as usual; I
+      felt listless and languid, and a drowsiness came over me; I did not fall
+      asleep, but the power of my limbs seemed to fail me. Yet the brain was
+      busy; all my life seemed passing in review before me; when these
+      retrospective scenes became serious, I looked serious; when they were
+      sorrowful, I wept hysterically; when they were joyous, I laughed loudly.
+      Reminiscences of yet a young life's battles and hard struggles came
+      surging into the mind in quick succession: events of boyhood, of youth,
+      and manhood; perils, travels, scenes, joys, and sorrows; loves and hates;
+      friendships and indifferences. My mind followed the various and rapid
+      transition of my life's passages; it drew the lengthy, erratic, sinuous
+      lines of travel my footsteps had passed over. If I had drawn them on the
+      sandy floor, what enigmatical problems they had been to those around me,
+      and what plain, readable, intelligent histories they had been to me!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The loveliest feature of all to me was the form of a noble, and true man,
+      who called me son. Of my life in the great pine forests of Arkansas, and
+      in Missouri, I retained the most vivid impressions. The dreaming days I
+      passed under the sighing pines on the Ouachita's shores; the new clearing,
+      the block-house, our faithful black servant, the forest deer, and the
+      exuberant life I led, were all well remembered. And I remembered how one
+      day, after we had come to live near the Mississipi, I floated down, down,
+      hundreds of miles, with a wild fraternity of knurly giants, the boatmen of
+      the Mississipi, and how a dear old man welcomed me back, as if from the
+      grave. I remembered also my travels on foot through sunny Spain, and
+      France, with numberless adventures in Asia Minor, among Kurdish nomads. I
+      remembered the battle-fields of America and the stormy scenes of rampant
+      war. I remembered gold mines, and broad prairies, Indian councils, and
+      much experience in the new western lands. I remembered the shock it gave
+      me to hear after my return from a barbarous country of the calamity that
+      had overtaken the fond man whom I called father, and the hot fitful life
+      that followed it. Stop! ************
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Dear me; is it the 21st of July? Yes, Shaw informed me that it was the
+      21st of July after I recovered from my terrible attack of fever; the true
+      date was the 14th of July, but I was not aware that I had jumped a week,
+      until I met Dr. Livingstone. We two together examined the Nautical
+      Almanack, which I brought with me. We found that the Doctor was three
+      weeks out of his reckoning, and to my great surprise I was also one week
+      out, or one week ahead of the actual date. The mistake was made by my
+      being informed that I had been two weeks sick, and as the day I recovered
+      my senses was Friday, and Shaw and the people were morally sure that I was
+      in bed two weeks, I dated it on my Diary the 21st of July. However, on the
+      tenth day after the first of my illness, I was in excellent trim again,
+      only, however, to see and attend to Shaw, who was in turn taken sick. By
+      the 22nd July Shaw was recovered, then Selim was prostrated, and groaned
+      in his delirium for four days, but by the 28th we were all recovered, and
+      were beginning to brighten up at the prospect of a diversion in the shape
+      of a march upon Mirambo's stronghold.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The morning of the 29th I had fifty men loaded with bales, beads, and
+      wire, for Ujiji. When they were mustered for the march outside the tembe,
+      the only man absent was Bombay. While men were sent to search for him,
+      others departed to get one more look, and one more embrace with their
+      black Delilahs. Bombay was found some time about 2 P.M., his face
+      faithfully depicting the contending passions under which he was labouring&mdash;sorrow
+      at parting from the fleshpots of Unyanyembe&mdash;regret at parting from
+      his Dulcinea of Tabora&mdash;to be, bereft of all enjoyment now, nothing
+      but marches&mdash;hard, long marches&mdash;to go to the war&mdash;to be
+      killed, perhaps, Oh! Inspired by such feelings, no wonder Bombay was
+      inclined to be pugnacious when I ordered him to his place, and I was in a
+      shocking bad temper for having been kept waiting from 8 A.M. to 2 P.M. for
+      him. There was simply a word and a savage look, and my cane was flying
+      around Bombay's shoulders, as if he were to be annihilated. I fancy that
+      the eager fury of my onslaught broke his stubbornness more than anything
+      else; for before I had struck him a dozen times he was crying for
+      "pardon." At that word I ceased belaboring him, for this was the first
+      time he had ever uttered that word. Bombay was conquered at last.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "March!" and the guide led off, followed in solemn order by forty-nine of
+      his fellows, every man carrying a heavy load of African moneys, besides
+      his gun, hatchet, and stock of ammunition, and his ugali-pot. We presented
+      quite an imposing sight while thus marching on in silence and order, with
+      our flags flying, and the red blanket robes of the men streaming behind
+      them as the furious north-easter blew right on our flank.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The men seemed to feel they were worth seeing, for I noticed that several
+      assumed a more martial tread as they felt their royal Joho cloth tugging
+      at their necks, as it was swept streaming behind by the wind. Maganga, a
+      tall Mnyamwezi, stalked along like a very Goliah about to give battle
+      alone, to Mirambo and his thousand warriors. Frisky Khamisi paced on under
+      his load, imitating a lion and there was the rude jester&mdash;the
+      incorrigible Ulimengo&mdash;with a stealthy pace like a cat. But their
+      silence could not last long. Their vanity was so much gratified, the red
+      cloaks danced so incessantly before their eyes, that it would have been a
+      wonder if they could have maintained such serious gravity or discontent
+      one half hour longer.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+Ulimengo was the first who broke it. He had constituted himself the
+kirangozi or guide, and was the standard-bearer, bearing the American
+flag, which the men thought would certainly strike terror into the
+hearts of the enemy. Growing confident first, then valorous, then
+exultant, he suddenly faced the army he was leading, and shouted
+
+        "Hoy!  Hoy!
+Chorus.&mdash;Hoy! Hoy!
+
+         Hoy!  Hoy!
+Chorus.&mdash;Hoy! Hoy!
+
+         Hoy!  Hoy!
+Chorus.&mdash;Hoy! Hoy!
+
+         Where are ye going?
+Chorus.&mdash;Going to war.
+
+         Against whom?
+Chorus.&mdash;Against Mirambo.
+
+         Who is your master?
+Chorus.&mdash;The White Man.
+
+         Ough!  Ough!
+Chorus.&mdash;Ough! Ough!
+
+         Hyah!  Hyah!
+Chorus.&mdash;Hyah. Hyah!"
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      This was the ridiculous song they kept up all day without intermission.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We camped the first day at Bomboma's village, situated a mile to the
+      south-west of the natural hill fortress of Zimbili. Bombay was quite
+      recovered from his thrashing, and had banished the sullen thoughts that
+      had aroused my ire, and the men having behaved themselves so well, a
+      five-gallon pot of pombe was brought to further nourish the valour, which
+      they one and all thought they possessed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The second day we arrived at Masangi. I was visited soon afterwards by
+      Soud, the son of Sayd bin Majid, who told me the Arabs were waiting for
+      me; that they would not march from Mfuto until I had arrived.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Eastern Mfuto, after a six hours' march, was reached on the third day from
+      Unyanyembe. Shaw gave in, laid down in the road, and declared he was
+      dying. This news was brought to me about 4 P.M. by one of the last
+      stragglers. I was bound to despatch men to carry him to me, into my camp,
+      though every man was well tired after the long march. A reward stimulated
+      half-a-dozen to venture into the forest just at dusk to find Shaw, who was
+      supposed to be at least three hours away from camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About two o'clock in the morning my men returned, having carried Shaw on
+      their backs the entire distance. I was roused up, and had him conveyed to
+      my tent. I examined him, and I assured myself he was not suffering from
+      fever of any kind; and in reply to my inquiries as to how he felt, he said
+      he could neither walk nor ride, that he felt such extreme weakness and
+      lassitude that he was incapable of moving further. After administering a
+      glass of port wine to him in a bowlful of sago gruel, we both fell asleep.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We arrived early the following morning at Mfuto, the rendezvous of the
+      Arab army. A halt was ordered the next day, in order to make ourselves
+      strong by eating the beeves, which we freely slaughtered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The personnel of our army was as follows:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sheikh Sayd bin Salim...... 25 half caste
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  "    Khamis bin Abdullah....  250 slaves
+
+  "    Thani bin Abdullah....    80   "
+
+  "    Mussoud bin Abdullah....  75   "
+
+  "    Abdullah bin Mussoud....  80   "
+
+  "    Ali bin Sayd bin Nasib...  250   "
+
+  "    Nasir bin Mussoud.....  50   "
+
+  "    Hamed Kimiami......   70   "
+
+  "    Hamdam........   30   "
+</pre>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  "    Sayd bin Habib......  50   "
+
+  "    Salim bin Sayf.....    100   "
+
+  "    Sunguru........  25    "
+
+  "    Sarboko........  25    "
+
+  "    Soud bin Sayd bin Majid...  50    "
+
+  "    Mohammed bin Mussoud....  30    "
+
+  "    Sayd bin Hamed...... 90    "
+
+  "    The 'Herald' Expedition...  50 soldiers
+
+  "    Mkasiwa's Wanyamwezi...   800    "
+
+  "    Half-castes and Wangwana..  125    "
+
+  "    Independent chiefs and their
+       followers.......  300    "
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      These made a total of 2,255, according to numbers given me by Thani bin
+      Abdullah, and corroborated by a Baluch in the pay of Sheikh bin Nasib. Of
+      these men 1,500 were armed with guns&mdash;flint-lock muskets, German and
+      French double-barrels, some English Enfields, and American Springfields&mdash;besides
+      these muskets, they were mostly armed with spears and long knives for the
+      purpose of decapitating, and inflicting vengeful gashes in the dead
+      bodies. Powder and ball were plentiful: some men were served a hundred
+      rounds each, my people received each man sixty rounds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As we filed out of the stronghold of Mfuto, with waving banners denoting
+      the various commanders, with booming horns, and the roar of fifty bass
+      drums, called gomas&mdash;with blessings showered on us by the mollahs,
+      and happiest predications from the soothsayers, astrologers, and the
+      diviners of the Koran&mdash;who could have foretold that this grand force,
+      before a week passed over its head, would be hurrying into that same
+      stronghold of Mfuto, with each man's heart in his mouth from fear?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The date of our leaving Mfuto for battle with Mirambo was the 3rd of
+      August. All my goods were stored in Mfuto, ready for the march to Ujiji,
+      should we be victorious over the African chief, but at least for safety,
+      whatever befel us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Long before we reached Umanda, I was in my hammock in the paroxysms of a
+      fierce attack of intermittent fever, which did not leave me until late
+      that night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Umanda, six hours from Mfuto, our warriors bedaubed themselves with the
+      medicine which the wise men had manufactured for them&mdash;a compound of
+      matama flour mixed with the juices of a herb whose virtues were only known
+      to the Waganga of the Wanyamwezi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At 6 A.M. on the 4th of August we were once more prepared for the road,
+      but before we were marched out of the village, the "manneno," or speech,
+      was delivered by the orator of the Wanyamwezi:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Words! words! words! Listen, sons of Mkasiwa, children of Unyamwezi! the
+      journey is before you, the thieves of the forest are waiting; yes, they
+      are thieves, they cut up your caravans, they steal your ivory, they murder
+      your women. Behold, the Arabs are with you, El Wali of the Arab sultan,
+      and the white man are with you. Go, the son of Mkasiwa is with you; fight;
+      kill, take slaves, take cloth, take cattle, kill, eat, and fill
+      yourselves! Go!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A loud, wild shout followed this bold harangue, the gates of the village
+      were thrown open, and blue, red, and white-robed soldiers were bounding
+      upward like so many gymnasts; firing their guns incessantly, in order to
+      encourage themselves with noise, or to strike terror into the hearts of
+      those who awaited us within the strong enclosure of Zimbizo, Sultan
+      Kolongo's place.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As Zimbizo was distant only five hours from Umanda, at 11 A.M. we came in
+      view of it. We halted on the verge of the cultivated area around it and
+      its neighbours within the shadow of the forest. Strict orders had been
+      given by the several chiefs to their respective commands not to fire,
+      until they were within shooting distance of the boma.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Khamis bin Abdullah crept through the forest to the west of the village.
+      The Wanyamwezi took their position before the main gateway, aided by the
+      forces of Soud the son of Sayd on the right, and the son of Habib on the
+      left, Abdullah, Mussoud, myself, and others made ready to attack the
+      eastern gates, which arrangement effectually shut them in, with the
+      exception of the northern side.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Suddenly, a volley opened on us as we emerged from the forest along the
+      Unyanyembe road, in the direction they had been anticipating the sight of
+      an enemy, and immediately the attacking forces began their firing in most
+      splendid style. There were some ludicrous scenes of men pretending to
+      fire, then jumping off to one side, then forward, then backward, with the
+      agility of hopping frogs, but the battle was none the less in earnest. The
+      breech-loaders of my men swallowed my metallic cartridges much faster than
+      I liked to see; but happily there was a lull in the firing, and we were
+      rushing into the village from the west, the south, the north, through the
+      gates and over the tall palings that surrounded the village, like so many
+      Merry Andrews; and the poor villagers were flying from the enclosure
+      towards the mountains, through the northern gate, pursued by the fleetest
+      runners of our force, and pelted in the back by bullets from
+      breech-loaders and shot-guns.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The village was strongly defended, and not more than twenty dead bodies
+      were found in it, the strong thick wooden paling having afforded excellent
+      protection against our bullets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From Zimbizo, after having left a sufficient force within, we sallied out,
+      and in an hour had cleared the neighbourhood of the enemy, having captured
+      two other villages, which we committed to the flames, after gutting them
+      of all valuables. A few tusks of ivory, and about fifty slaves, besides an
+      abundance of grain, composed the "loot," which fell to the lot of the
+      Arabs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 5th, a detachment of Arabs and slaves, seven hundred strong,
+      scoured the surrounding country, and carried fire and devastation up to
+      the boma of Wilyankuru.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 6th, Soud bin Sayd and about twenty other young Arabs led a force
+      of five hundred men against Wilyankuru itself, where it was supposed
+      Mirambo was living. Another party went out towards the low wooded hills, a
+      short distance north of Zimbizo, near which place they surprised a
+      youthful forest thief asleep, whose head they stretched backwards, and cut
+      it off as though he were a goat or a sheep. Another party sallied out
+      southward, and defeated a party of Mirambo's "bush-whackers," news of
+      which came to our ears at noon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the morning I had gone to Sayd bin Salim's tembe, to represent to him
+      how necessary it was to burn the long grass in the forest of Zimbizo, lest
+      it might hide any of the enemy; but soon afterwards I had been struck down
+      with another attack of intermittent fever, and was obliged to turn in and
+      cover myself with blankets to produce perspiration; but not, however, till
+      I had ordered Shaw and Bombay not to permit any of my men to leave the
+      camp. But I was told soon afterwards by Selim that more than one half had
+      gone to the attack on Wilyankuru with Soud bin Sayd.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About 6 P.M. the entire camp of Zimbizo was electrified with the news that
+      all the Arabs who had accompanied Soud bin Sayd had been killed; and that
+      more than one-half of his party had been slain. Some of my own men
+      returned, and from them I learned that Uledi, Grant's former valet,
+      Mabruki Khatalabu (Killer of his father), Mabruki (the Little), Baruti of
+      Useguhha, and Ferahan had been killed. I learned also that they had
+      succeeded in capturing Wilyankuru in a very short time, that Mirambo and
+      his son were there, that as they succeeded in effecting an entrance,
+      Mirambo had collected his men, and after leaving the village, had formed
+      an ambush in the grass, on each side of the road, between Wilyankuru and
+      Zimbizo, and that as the attacking party were returning home laden with
+      over a hundred tusks of ivory, and sixty bales of cloth, and two or three
+      hundred slaves, Mirambo's men suddenly rose up on each side of them, and
+      stabbed them with their spears. The brave Soud had fired his
+      double-barrelled gun and shot two men, and was in the act of loading again
+      when a spear was launched, which penetrated through and through him: all
+      the other Arabs shared the same fate. This sudden attack from an enemy
+      they believed to be conquered so demoralized the party that, dropping
+      their spoil, each man took to his heels, and after making a wide detour
+      through the woods, returned to Zimbizo to repeat the dolorous tale.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The effect of this defeat is indescribable. It was impossible to sleep,
+      from the shrieks of the women whose husbands had fallen. All night they
+      howled their lamentations, and sometimes might be heard the groans of the
+      wounded who had contrived to crawl through the grass unperceived by the
+      enemy. Fugitives were continually coming in throughout the night, but none
+      of my men who were reported to be dead, were ever heard of again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The 7th was a day of distrust, sorrow, and retreat; the Arabs accused one
+      another for urging war without expending all peaceful means first. There
+      were stormy councils of war held, wherein were some who proposed to return
+      at once to Unyanyembe, and keep within their own houses; and Khamis bin
+      Abdullah raved, like an insulted monarch, against the abject cowardice of
+      his compatriots. These stormy meetings and propositions to retreat were
+      soon known throughout the camp, and assisted more than anything else to
+      demoralize completely the combined forces of Wanyamwezi and slaves. I sent
+      Bombay to Sayd bin Salim to advise him not to think of retreat, as it
+      would only be inviting Mirambo to carry the war to Unyanyembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After, despatching Bombay with this message, I fell asleep, but about 1.30
+      P.M. I was awakened by Selim saying, "Master, get up, they are all running
+      away, and Khamis bin Abdullah is himself going."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With the aid of Selim I dressed myself, and staggered towards the door. My
+      first view was of Thani bin Abdullah being dragged away, who, when he
+      caught sight of me, shouted out "Bana&mdash;quick&mdash;Mirambo is
+      coming." He was then turning to run, and putting on his jacket, with his
+      eyes almost starting out of their sockets with terror. Khamis bin Abdullah
+      was also about departing, he being the last Arab to leave. Two of my men
+      were following him; these Selim was ordered to force back with a revolver.
+      Shaw was saddling his donkey with my own saddle, preparatory to giving me
+      the slip, and leaving me in the lurch to the tender mercies of Mirambo.
+      There were only Bombay, Mabruki Speke, Chanda who was coolly eating his
+      dinner, Mabruk Unyauyembe, Mtamani, Juma, and Sarmean&mdash;-only seven
+      out of fifty. All the others had deserted, and were by this time far away,
+      except Uledi (Manwa Sera) and Zaidi, whom Selim brought back at the point
+      of a loaded revolver. Selim was then told to saddle my donkey, and Bombay
+      to assist Shaw to saddle his own. In a few moments we were on the road,
+      the men ever looking back for the coming enemy; they belabored the donkeys
+      to some purpose, for they went at a hard trot, which caused me intense
+      pain. I would gladly have lain down to die, but life was sweet, and I had
+      not yet given up all hope of being able to preserve it to the full and
+      final accomplishment of my mission. My mind was actively at work planning
+      and contriving during the long lonely hours of night, which we employed to
+      reach Mfuto, whither I found the Arabs had retreated. In the night Shaw
+      tumbled off his donkey, and would not rise, though implored to do so. As I
+      did not despair myself, so I did not intend that Shaw should despair. He
+      was lifted on his animal, and a man was placed on each side of him to
+      assist him; thus we rode through the darkness. At midnight we reached
+      Mfuto safely, and were at once admitted into the village, from which we
+      had issued so valiantly, but to which we were now returned so
+      ignominiously.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I found all my men had arrived here before dark. Ulimengo, the bold guide
+      who had exulted in his weapons and in our numbers, and was so sanguine of
+      victory, had performed the eleven hours' march in six hours; sturdy
+      Chowpereh, whom I regarded as the faithfullest of my people, had arrived
+      only half an hour later than Ulimengo; and frisky Khamisi, the dandy&mdash;the
+      orator&mdash;the rampant demagogue&mdash;yes&mdash;he had come third; and
+      Speke's "Faithfuls" had proved as cowardly as any poor "nigger" of them
+      all. Only Selim was faithful.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I asked Selim, "Why did you not also run away, and leave your master to
+      die?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh, sir," said the Arab boy, naively, "I was afraid you would whip me."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER IX. &mdash; MY LIFE AND TROUBLES IN UNYANYEMBE-(continued).
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      It never occurred to the Arab magnates that I had cause of complaint
+      against them, or that I had a right to feel aggrieved at their conduct,
+      for the base desertion of an ally, who had, as a duty to friendship, taken
+      up arms for their sake. Their "salaams" the next morning after the
+      retreat, were given as if nothing had transpired to mar the good feeling
+      that had existed between us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were hardly seated, however, before I began to inform them that as
+      the war was only between them and Mirambo, and that as I was afraid, if
+      they were accustomed to run away after every little check, that the war
+      might last a much longer time than I could afford to lose; and that as
+      they had deserted their wounded on the field, and left their sick friends
+      to take care of themselves, they must not consider me in the light of an
+      ally any more. "I am satisfied," said I, "having seen your mode of
+      fighting, that the war will not be ended in so short a time as you think
+      it will. It took you five years, I hear, to conquer and kill Manwa Sera,
+      you will certainly not conquer Mirambo in less than a year.* I am a white
+      man, accustomed to wars after a different style, I know something about
+      fighting, but I never saw people run away from an encampment like ours at
+      Zimbizo for such slight cause as you had. By running away, you have
+      invited Mirambo to follow you to Unyanyembe; you may be sure he will
+      come." __________________ * The same war is still raging, April, 1874.
+      __________________
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Arabs protested one after another that they had not intended to have
+      left me, but the Wanyamwezi of Mkasiwa had shouted out that the "Musungu"
+      was gone, and the cry had caused a panic among their people, which it was
+      impossible to allay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Later that day the Arabs continued their retreat to Tabora; which is
+      twenty-two miles distant from Mfuto. I determined to proceed more
+      leisurely, and on the second day after the flight from Zimbizo, the
+      Expedition, with all the stores and baggage, marched back to Masangi, and
+      on the third day to Kwihara.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The following extracts from my Diary will serve to show better than
+      anything else, my feelings and thoughts about this time, after our
+      disgraceful retreat:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kwihara. Friday, 11th August, 1871.&mdash;Arrived to-day from Zimbili,
+      village of Bomboma's. I am quite disappointed and almost disheartened. But
+      I have one consolation, I have done my duty by the Arabs, a duty I thought
+      I owed to the kindness they received me with, now, however, the duty is
+      discharged, and I am free to pursue my own course. I feel happy, for some
+      reasons, that the duty has been paid at such a slight sacrifice. Of course
+      if I had lost my life in this enterprise, I should have been justly
+      punished. But apart from my duty to the consideration with which the Arabs
+      had received me, was the necessity of trying every method of reaching
+      Livingstone. This road which the war with Mirambo has closed, is only a
+      month's march from this place, and, if the road could be opened with my
+      aid, sooner than without it, why should I refuse my aid? The attempt has
+      been made for the second time to Ujiji&mdash;both have failed. I am going
+      to try another route; to attempt to go by the north would be folly.
+      Mirambo's mother and people, and the Wasui, are between me and Ujiji,
+      without including the Watuta, who are his allies, and robbers. The
+      southern route seems to be the most practicable one. Very few people know
+      anything of the country south; those whom I have questioned concerning it
+      speak of "want of water" and robber Wazavira, as serious obstacles; they
+      also say that the settlements are few and far between.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But before I can venture to try this new route, I have to employ a new set
+      of men, as those whom I took to Mfuto consider their engagements at an
+      end, and the fact of five of their number being killed rather damps their
+      ardor for travelling. It is useless to hope that Wanyamwezi can be
+      engaged, because it is against their custom to go with caravans, as
+      carriers, during war time. My position is most serious. I have a good
+      excuse for returning to the coast, but my conscience will not permit me to
+      do so, after so much money has been expended, and so much confidence has
+      been placed in me. In fact, I feel I must die sooner than return.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Saturday, August 12th.&mdash;My men, as I supposed they would, have gone;
+      they said that I engaged them to go, to Ujiji by Mirambo's road. I have
+      only thirteen left.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With this small body of men, whither can I go? I have over one hundred
+      loads in the storeroom. Livingstone's caravan is also here; his goods
+      consist of seventeen bales of cloth, twelve boxes, and six bags of beads.
+      His men are luxuriating upon the best the country affords.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If Livingstone is at Ujiji, he is now locked up with small means of
+      escape. I may consider myself also locked up at Unyamyembe, and I suppose
+      cannot go to Ujiji until this war with Mirambo is settled. Livingstone
+      cannot get his goods, for they are here with mine. He cannot return to
+      Zanzibar, and the road to the Nile is blocked up. He might, if he has men
+      and stores, possibly reach Baker by travelling northwards, through Urundi,
+      thence through Ruanda, Karagwah, Uganda, Unyoro, and Ubari to Gondokoro.
+      Pagazis he cannot obtain, for the sources whence a supply might be
+      obtained are closed. It is an erroneous supposition to think that
+      Livingstone, any more than any other energetic man of his calibre, can
+      travel through Africa without some sort of an escort, and a durable supply
+      of marketable cloth and beads.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was told to-day by a man that when Livingstone was coming from Nyassa
+      Lake towards the Tanganika (the very time that people thought him
+      murdered) he was met by Sayd bin Omar's caravan, which was bound for
+      Ulamba. He was travelling with Mohammed bin Gharib. This Arab, who was
+      coming from Urunga, met Livingstone at Chi-cumbi's, or Kwa-chi-kumbi's,
+      country, and travelled with him afterwards, I hear, to Manyuema or
+      Manyema. Manyuema is forty marches from the north of Nyassa. Livingstone
+      was walking; he was dressed in American sheeting. He had lost all his
+      cloth in Lake Liemba while crossing it in a boat. He had three canoes with
+      him; in one he put his cloth, another he loaded with his boxes and some of
+      his men, into the third he went himself with two servants and two
+      fishermen. The boat with his cloth was upset. On leaving Nyassa,
+      Livingstone went to Ubisa, thence to Uemba, thence to Urungu. Livingstone
+      wore a cap. He had a breech-loading double-barreled rifle with him, which
+      fired fulminating balls. He was also armed with two revolvers. The Wahiyow
+      with Livingstone told this man that their master had many men with him at
+      first, but that several had deserted him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      August 13th.&mdash;A caravan came in to-day from the seacoast. They
+      reported that William L. Farquhar, whom I left sick at Mpwapwa, Usagara,
+      and his cook, were dead. Farquhar, I was told, died a few days after I had
+      entered Ugogo, his cook died a few weeks later. My first impulse was for
+      revenge. I believed that Leukole had played me false, and had poisoned
+      him, or that he had been murdered in some other manner; but a personal
+      interview with the Msawahili who brought the news informing me that
+      Farquhar had succumbed to his dreadful illness has done away with that
+      suspicion. So far as I could understand him, Farquhar had in the morning
+      declared himself well enough to proceed, but in attempting to rise, had
+      fallen backward and died. I was also told that the Wasagara, possessing
+      some superstitious notions respecting the dead, had ordered Jako to take
+      the body out for burial, that Jako, not being able to carry it, had
+      dragged the body to the jungle, and there left it naked without the
+      slightest covering of earth, or anything else.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "There is one of us gone, Shaw, my boy! Who will be the next?" I remarked
+      that night to my companion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      August 14th.&mdash;Wrote some letters to Zanzibar. Shaw was taken very ill
+      last night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      August 19th. Saturday.&mdash;My soldiers are employed stringing beads.
+      Shaw is still a-bed. We hear that Mirambo is coming to Unyanyembe. A
+      detachment of Arabs and their slaves have started this morning to possess
+      themselves of the powder left there by the redoubtable Sheikh Sayd bin
+      Salim, the commander-in-chief of the Arab settlements.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      August 21st. Monday.&mdash;Shaw still sick. One hundred fundo of beads
+      have been strung. The Arabs are preparing for another sally against
+      Mirambo. The advance of Mirambo upon Unyanyembe was denied by Sayd bin
+      Salim, this morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      August 22nd.&mdash;We were stringing beads this morning, when, about 10
+      A.M., we heard a continued firing from the direction of Tabora. Rushing
+      out from our work to the front door facing Tabora, we heard considerable
+      volleying, and scattered firing, plainly; and ascending to the top of my
+      tembe, I saw with my glasses the smoke of the guns. Some of my men who
+      were sent on to ascertain the cause came running back with the information
+      that Mirambo had attacked Tabora with over two thousand men, and that a
+      force of over one thousand Watuta, who had allied themselves with him for
+      the sake of plunder, had come suddenly upon Tabora, attacking from
+      opposite directions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Later in the day, or about noon, watching the low saddle over which we
+      could see Tabora, we saw it crowded with fugitives from that settlement,
+      who were rushing to our settlement at Kwihara for protection. From these
+      people we heard the sad information that the noble Khamis bin Abdullah,
+      his little protege, Khamis, Mohammed bin Abdullah, Ibrahim bin Rashid, and
+      Sayf, the son of Ali, the son of Sheikh, the son of Nasib, had been slain.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When I inquired into the details of the attack, and the manner of the
+      death of these Arabs, I was told that after the first firing which warned
+      the inhabitants of Tabora that the enemy was upon them, Khamis bin
+      Abdullah and some of the principal Arabs who happened to be with him had
+      ascended to the roof of his tembe, and with his spyglass he had looked
+      towards the direction of the firing. To his great astonishment he saw the
+      plain around Tabora filled with approaching savages, and about two miles
+      off, near Kazima, a tent pitched, which he knew to belong to Mirambo, from
+      its having been presented to that chief by the Arabs of Tabora when they
+      were on good terms with him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Khamis bin Abdullah descended to his house saying, "Let us go to meet him.
+      Arm yourselves, my friends, and come with me." His friends advised him
+      strongly sat to go out of his tembe; for so long as each Arab kept to his
+      tembe they were more than a match for the Ruga Ruga and the Watuta
+      together. But Khamis broke out impatiently with, "Would you advise us to
+      stop in our tembes, for fear of this Mshensi (pagan)? Who goes with me?"
+      His little protege, Khamis, son of a dead friend, asked to be allowed to
+      be his gun-bearer. Mohammed bin Abdulluh, Ibrahim bin Rashid, and Sayf,
+      the son of Ali, young Arabs of good families, who were proud to live with
+      the noble Khamis, also offered to go with him. After hastily arming eighty
+      of his slaves, contrary to the advice of his prudent friends, he sallied
+      out, and was soon face to face with his cunning and determined enemy
+      Mirambo. This chief, upon seeing the Arabs advance towards him, gave
+      orders to retreat slowly. Khamis, deceived by this, rushed on with his
+      friends after them. Suddenly Mirambo ordered his men to advance upon them
+      in a body, and at the sight of the precipitate rush upon their party,
+      Khamis's slaves incontinently took to their heels, never even deigning to
+      cast a glance behind them, leaving their master to the fate which was now
+      overtaking him. The savages surrounded the five Arabs, and though several
+      of them fell before the Arabs' fire, continued to shoot at the little
+      party, until Khamis bin Abdullah received a bullet in the leg, which
+      brought him to his knees, and, for the first time, to the knowledge that
+      his slaves had deserted him. Though wounded, the brave man continued
+      shooting, but he soon afterwards received a bullet through the heart.
+      Little Khamis, upon seeing his adopted father's fall, exclaimed: "My
+      father Khamis is dead, I will die with him," and continued fighting until
+      he received, shortly after, his death wound. In a few minutes there was
+      not one Arab left alive.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Late at night some more particulars arrived of this tragic scene. I was
+      told by people who saw the bodies, that the body of Khamis bin Abdullah,
+      who was a fine noble, brave, portly man, was found with the skin of his
+      forehead, the beard and skin of the lower part of his face, the fore part
+      of the nose, the fat over the stomach and abdomen, and, lastly, a bit from
+      each heel, cut off, by the savage allies of Mirambo. And in the same
+      condition were found the bodies of his adopted son and fallen friends. The
+      flesh and skin thus taken from the bodies was taken, of course, by the
+      waganga or medicine men, to make what they deem to be the most powerful
+      potion of all to enable men to be strong against their enemies. This
+      potion is mixed up with their ugali and rice, and is taken in this manner
+      with the most perfect confidence in its efficacy, as an invulnerable
+      protection against bullets and missiles of all descriptions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was a most sorry scene to witness from our excited settlement at
+      Kwihara, almost the whole of Tabora in flames, and to see the hundreds of
+      people crowding into Kwihara.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Perceiving that my people were willing to stand by me, I made preparations
+      for defence by boring loopholes for muskets into the stout clay walls of
+      my tembe. They were made so quickly, and seemed so admirably adapted for
+      the efficient defence of the tembe, that my men got quite brave, and
+      Wangwana refugees with guns in their hands, driven out of Tabora, asked to
+      be admitted into our tembe to assist in its defence. Livingstone's men
+      were also collected, and invited to help defend their master's goods
+      against Mirambo's supposed attack. By night I had one hundred and fifty
+      armed men in my courtyard, stationed at every possible point where an
+      attack might be expected. To-morrow Mirambo has threatened that he will
+      come to Kwihara. I hope he will come, and if he comes within range of an
+      American rifle, I shall see what virtue lies in American lead.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      August 23rd.&mdash;We have passed a very anxious day in the valley of
+      Kwihara. Our eyes were constantly directed towards unfortunate Tabora. It
+      has been said that three tembes only have stood the brunt of the attack.
+      Abid bin Suliman's house has been destroyed, and over two hundred tusks of
+      ivory that belonged to him have become the property of the African
+      Bonaparte. My tembe is in as efficient a state of defence as its style and
+      means of defence will allow. Rifle-pits surround the house outside, and
+      all native huts that obstructed the view have been torn down, and all
+      trees and shrubs which might serve as a shelter for any one of the enemy
+      have been cut. Provisions and water enough for six days have been brought.
+      I have ammunition enough to last two weeks. The walls are three feet
+      thick, and there are apartments within apartments, so that a desperate
+      body of men could fight until the last room had been taken.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Arabs, my neighbours, endeavour to seem brave, but it is evident they
+      are about despairing; I have heard it rumoured that the Arabs of Kwihara,
+      if Tabora is taken, will start en masse for the coast, and give the
+      country up to Mirambo. If such are their intentions, and they are really
+      carried into effect, I shall be in a pretty mess. However, if they do
+      leave me, Mirambo will not reap any benefit from my stores, nor from
+      Livingstone's either, for I shall burn the whole house, and everything in
+      it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      August 24th.&mdash;The American flag is still waving above my house, and
+      the Arabs are still in Unyanyembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About 10 A.M., a messenger came from Tabora, asking us if we were not
+      going to assist them against Mirambo. I felt very much like going out to
+      help them; but after debating long upon the pros and cons of it,&mdash;asking
+      myself, Was it prudent? Ought I to go? What will become of the people if I
+      were killed? Will they not desert me again? What was the fate of Khamis
+      bin Abdullah?&mdash;I sent word that I would not go; that they ought to
+      feel perfectly at home in their tembes against such a force as Mirambo
+      had, that I should be glad if they could induce him to come to Kwihara, in
+      which case I would try and pick him off.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They say that Mirambo, and his principal officer, carry umbrellas over
+      their heads, that he himself has long hair like a Mnyamwezi pagazi, and a
+      beard. If he comes, all the men carrying umbrellas will have bullets
+      rained on them in the hope that one lucky bullet may hit him. According to
+      popular ideas, I should make a silver bullet, but I have no silver with
+      me. I might make a gold one.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About, noon I went over to see Sheikh bin Nasib, leaving about 100 men
+      inside the house to guard it while I was absent. This old fellow is quite
+      a philosopher in his way. I should call him a professor of minor
+      philosophy. He is generally so sententious&mdash;fond of aphorisms, and a
+      very deliberate character. I was astonished to find him so despairing. His
+      aphorisms have deserted him, his philosophy has not been able to stand
+      against disaster. He listened to me, more like a moribund, than one
+      possessing all the means of defence and offence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I loaded his two-pounder with ball, and grape, and small slugs of iron,
+      and advised him not to fire it until Mirambo's people were at his gates.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About 4 p.m. I heard that Mirambo had deported himself to Kazima, a place
+      north-west of Tabora a couple of miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      August 26th.&mdash;The Arabs sallied out this morning to attack Kazima,
+      but refrained, because Mirambo asked for a day's grace, to eat the beef he
+      had stolen from them. He has asked them impudently to come to-morrow
+      morning, at which time he says he will give them plenty of fighting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kwihara is once more restored to a peaceful aspect, and fugitives no
+      longer throng its narrow limits in fear and despair.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      August 27th.&mdash;Mirambo retreated during the night; and when the Arabs
+      went in force to attack his village of Kazima, they found it vacant.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Arabs hold councils of war now-a-days&mdash;battle meetings, of which
+      they seem to be very fond, but extremely slow to act upon. They were about
+      to make friends with the northern Watuta, but Mirambo was ahead of them.
+      They had talked of invading Mirambo's territory the second time, but
+      Mirambo invaded Unyanyembe with fire and sword, bringing death to many a
+      household, and he has slain the noblest of them all.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Arabs spend their hours in talking and arguing, while the Ujiji and
+      Karagwah roads are more firmly closed than ever. Indeed many of the
+      influential Arabs are talking of returning to Zanzibar; saying,
+      "Unyanyembe is ruined."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Meanwhile, with poor success, however, perceiving the impossibility of
+      procuring Wanyamwezi pagazis, I am hiring the Wangwana renegades living in
+      Unyanyembe to proceed with me to Ujiji, at treble prices. Each man is
+      offered 30 doti, ordinary hire of a carrier being only from 5 to 10 doti
+      to Ujiji. I want fifty men. I intend to leave about sixty or seventy loads
+      here under charge of a guard. I shall leave all personal baggage behind,
+      except one small portmanteau.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      August 28th.&mdash;No news to-day of Mirambo. Shaw is getting strong
+      again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sheikh bin Nasib called on me to-day, but, except on minor philosophy, he
+      had nothing to say.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have determined, after a study of the country, to lead a flying caravan
+      to Ujiji, by a southern road through northern Ukonongo and Ukawendi.
+      Sheikh bin Nasib has been informed to-night of this determination.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      August 29th.&mdash;Shaw got up to-day for a little work. Alas! all my
+      fine-spun plans of proceeding by boat over the Victoria N'Yanza, thence
+      down the Nile, have been totally demolished, I fear, through this war with
+      Mirambo&mdash;this black Bonaparte. Two months have been wasted here
+      already. The Arabs take such a long time to come to a conclusion. Advice
+      is plentiful, and words are as numerous as the blades of grass in our
+      valley; all that is wanting indecision. The Arabs' hope and stay is dead&mdash;Khamis
+      bin Abdullah is no more. Where are the other warriors of whom the Wangwana
+      and Wanyamwezi bards sing? Where is mighty Kisesa&mdash;great Abdullah bin
+      Nasib? Where is Sayd, the son of Majid? Kisesa is in Zanzibar, and Sayd,
+      the son of Majid, is in Ujiji, as yet ignorant that his son has fallen in
+      the forest of Wilyankuru.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Shaw is improving fast. I am unsuccessful as yet in procuring soldiers. I
+      almost despair of ever being able to move from here. It is such a drowsy,
+      sleepy, slow, dreaming country. Arabs, Wangwana, Wanyamwezi, are all alike&mdash;all
+      careless how time flies. Their to-morrow means sometimes within a month.
+      To me it is simply maddening.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      August 30th.&mdash;Shaw will not work. I cannot get him to stir himself. I
+      have petted him and coaxed him; I have even cooked little luxuries for him
+      myself. And, while I am straining every nerve to get ready for Ujiji, Shaw
+      is satisfied with looking on listlessly. What a change from the
+      ready-handed bold man he was at Zanzibar!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I sat down by his side to-day with my palm and needle in order to
+      encourage him, and to-day, for the first time, I told him of the real
+      nature of my mission. I told him that I did not care about the geography
+      of the country half as much as I cared about FINDING LIVINGSTONE! I told
+      him, for the first time, "Now, my dear Shaw, you think probably that I
+      have been sent here to find the depth of the Tanganika. Not a bit of it,
+      man; I was told to find Livingstone. It is to find Livingstone I am here.
+      It is to find Livingstone I am going. Don't you see, old fellow, the
+      importance of the mission; don't you see what reward you will get from Mr.
+      Bennett, if you will help me? I am sure, if ever you come to New York, you
+      will never be in want of a fifty-dollar bill. So shake yourself; jump
+      about; look lively. Say you will not die; that is half the battle. Snap
+      your fingers at the fever. I will guarantee the fever won't kill you. I
+      have medicine enough for a regiment here!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      His eyes lit up a little, but the light that shone in them shortly faded,
+      and died. I was quite disheartened. I made some strong punch, to put fire
+      in his veins, that I might see life in him. I put sugar, and eggs, and
+      seasoned it with lemon and spice. "Drink, Shaw," said I, "and forget your
+      infirmities. You are not sick, dear fellow; it is only ennui you are
+      feeling. Look at Selim there. Now, I will bet any amount, that he will not
+      die; that I will carry him home safe to his friends! I will carry you home
+      also, if you will, let me!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      September 1st:&mdash;According to Thani bin Abdullah whom I visited
+      to-day, at his tembe in Maroro, Mirambo lost two hundred men in the attack
+      upon Tabora, while the Arabs' losses were, five Arabs, thirteen freemen
+      and eight slaves, besides three tembes, and over one hundred small huts
+      burned, two hundred and eighty ivory tusks, and sixty cows and bullocks
+      captured.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      September 3rd.&mdash;Received a packet of letters and newspapers from
+      Capt. Webb, at Zanzibar. What a good thing it is that one's friends, even
+      in far America, think of the absent one in Africa! They tell me, that no
+      one dreams of my being in Africa yet!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I applied to Sheikh bin Nasib to-day to permit Livingstone's caravan to go
+      under my charge to Ujiji, but he would not listen to it. He says he feels
+      certain I am going to my death.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      September 4th.&mdash;Shaw is quite well to-day, he says. Selim is down
+      with the fever. My force is gradually increasing, though some of my old
+      soldiers are falling off. Umgareza is blind; Baruti has the small-pox very
+      badly; Sadala has the intermittent.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      September 5th.&mdash;Baruti died this morning. He was one of my best
+      soldiers; and was one of those men who accompanied Speke to Egypt. Baruti
+      is number seven of those who have died since leaving Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To-day my ears have been poisoned with the reports of the Arabs, about the
+      state of the country I am about to travel through. "The roads are bad;
+      they are all stopped; the Ruga-Ruga are out in the forests; the Wakonongo
+      are coming from the south to help Mirambo; the Washensi are at war, one
+      tribe against another." My men are getting dispirited, they have imbibed
+      the fears of the Arabs and the Wanyamwezi. Bombay begins to feel that I
+      had better go back to the coast, and try again some other time.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We buried Baruti under the shade of the banyan-tree, a few yards west of
+      my tembe. The grave was made four and a half feet deep and three feet
+      wide. At the bottom on one side a narrow trench was excavated, into which
+      the body was rolled on his side, with his face turned towards Mecca. The
+      body was dressed in a doti and a half of new American sheeting. After it
+      was placed properly in its narrow bed, a sloping roof of sticks, covered
+      over with matting and old canvas, was made, to prevent the earth from
+      falling over the body. The grave was then filled, the soldiers laughing
+      merrily. On the top of the grave was planted a small shrub, and into a
+      small hole made with the hand, was poured water lest he might feel thirsty&mdash;they
+      said&mdash;on his way to Paradise; water was then sprinkled all ever the
+      grave, and the gourd broken. This ceremony being ended, the men recited
+      the Arabic Fat-hah, after which they left the grave of their dead comrade
+      to think no more of him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      September 7th.&mdash;An Arab named Mohammed presented me to-day with a
+      little boy-slave, called "Ndugu M'hali" (my brother's wealth). As I did
+      not like the name, I called the chiefs of my caravan together, and asked
+      them to give him a better name. One suggested "Simba" (a lion), another
+      said he thought "Ngombe" (a cow) would suit the boy-child, another thought
+      he ought to be called "Mirambo," which raised a loud laugh. Bombay thought
+      "Bombay Mdogo" would suit my black-skinned infant very well. Ulimengo,
+      however, after looking at his quick eyes, and noting his celerity of
+      movement, pronounced the name Ka-lu-la as the best for him, "because,"
+      said he, "just look at his eyes, so bright look at his form, so slim!
+      watch his movements, how quick! Yes, Kalulu is his name." "Yes, bana,"
+      said the others, "let it be Kalulu."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Kalulu" is a Kisawahili term for the young of the blue-buck (perpusilla)
+      antelope.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, then," said I, water being brought in a huge tin pan, Selim, who
+      was willing to stand godfather, holding him over the water, "let his name
+      henceforth be Kalulu, and let no man take it from him," and thus it was
+      that the little black boy of Mohammed's came to be called Kalulu.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Expedition is increasing in numbers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We had quite an alarm before dark. Much firing was heard at Tabora, which
+      led us to anticipate an attack on Kwihara. It turned out, however, to be a
+      salute fired in honour of the arrival of Sultan Kitambi to pay a visit to
+      Mkasiwa, Sultan of Unyanyembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      September 8th.&mdash;Towards night Sheikh bin Nasib received a letter from
+      an Arab at Mfuto, reporting that an attack was made on that place by
+      Mirambo and his Watuta allies. It also warned him to bid the people of
+      Kwihara hold themselves in readiness, because if Mirambo succeeded in
+      storming Mfuto, he would march direct on Kwihara.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      September 9th.&mdash;Mirambo was defeated with severe loss yesterday, in
+      his attack upon Mfuto. He was successful in an assault he made upon a
+      small Wanyamwezi village, but when he attempted to storm Mfuto, he was
+      repulsed with severe loss, losing three of his principal men. Upon
+      withdrawing his forces from the attack, the inhabitants sallied out, and
+      followed him to the forest of Umanda, where he was again utterly routed,
+      himself ingloriously flying from the field.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The heads of his chief men slain in the attack were brought to Kwikuru,
+      the boma of Mkasiwa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      September 14th.&mdash;The Arab boy Selim is delirious from constant fever.
+      Shaw is sick again. These two occupy most of my time. I am turned into a
+      regular nurse, for I have no one to assist me in attending upon them. If I
+      try to instruct Abdul Kader in the art of being useful, his head is so
+      befogged with the villainous fumes of Unyamwezi tobacco, that he wanders
+      bewildered about, breaking dishes, and upsetting cooked dainties, until I
+      get so exasperated that my peace of mind is broken completely for a full
+      hour. If I ask Ferajji, my now formally constituted cook, to assist, his
+      thick wooden head fails to receive an idea, and I am thus obliged to play
+      the part of chef de cuisine.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      September 15th.&mdash;The third month of my residence in Unyanyembe is
+      almost finished, and I am still here, but I hope to be gone before the
+      23rd inst.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All last night, until nine A.M. this morning, my soldiers danced and sang
+      to the names of their dead comrades, whose bones now bleach in the forests
+      of Wilyankuru. Two or three huge pots of pombe failed to satisfy the
+      raging thirst which the vigorous exercise they were engaged in, created.
+      So, early this morning, I was called upon to contribute a shukka for
+      another potful of the potent liquor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To-day I was busy selecting the loads for each soldier and pagazi. In
+      order to lighten their labor as much as possible, I reduced each load from
+      70 lbs. to 50 lbs., by which I hope to be enabled to make some long
+      marches. I have been able to engage ten pagazis during the last two or
+      three days.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have two or three men still very sick, and it is almost useless to
+      expect that they will be able to carry anything, but I am in hopes that
+      other men may be engaged to take their places before the actual day of
+      departure, which now seems to be drawing near rapidly.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      September 16th.&mdash;We have almost finished our work&mdash;on the fifth
+      day from this&mdash;God willing&mdash;we shall march. I engaged two more
+      pagazis besides two guides, named Asmani and Mabruki. If vastness of the
+      human form could terrify any one, certainly Asmani's appearance is well
+      calculated to produce that effect. He stands considerably over six feet
+      without shoes, and has shoulders broad enough for two ordinary men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To-morrow I mean to give the people a farewell feast, to celebrate our
+      departure from this forbidding and unhappy country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      September 17th.&mdash;The banquet is ended. I slaughtered two bullocks,
+      and had a barbacue; three sheep, two goats, and fifteen chickens, 120 lbs.
+      of rice, twenty large loaves of bread made of Indian corn-flour, one
+      hundred eggs, 10 lbs. of butter, and five gallons of sweet-milk, were the
+      contents of which the banquet was formed. The men invited their friends
+      and neighbours, and about one hundred women and children partook of it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After the banquet was ended, the pombe, or native beer, was brought in in
+      five gallon pots, and the people commenced their dance, which continues
+      even now as I write.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      September 19th.&mdash;I had a slight attack of fever to-day, which has
+      postponed our departure. Selim and Shaw are both recovered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About 8 P.M. Sheik bin Nasib came to me imploring me not to go away
+      to-morrow, because I was so sick. Thani Sakhburi suggested to me that I
+      might stay another month. In answer, I told them that white men are not
+      accustomed to break their words. I had said I would go, and I intended to
+      go.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sheikh bin Nasib gave up all hope of inducing me to remain another day,
+      and he has gone away, with a promise to write to Seyd Burghash to tell him
+      how obstinate I am; and that I am determined to be killed. This was a
+      parting shot.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About 10 P.M. the fever had gone. All were asleep in the tembe but myself,
+      and an unutterable loneliness came on me as I reflected on my position,
+      and my intentions, and felt the utter lack of sympathy with me in all
+      around. It requires more nerve than I possess, to dispel all the dark
+      presentiments that come upon the mind. But probably what I call
+      presentiments are simply the impress on the mind of the warnings which
+      these false-hearted Arabs have repeated so often. This melancholy and
+      loneliness I feel, may probably have their origin from the same cause. The
+      single candle, which barely lights up the dark shade that fills the
+      corners of my room, is but a poor incentive to cheerfulness. I feel as
+      though I were imprisoned between stone walls. But why should I feel as if
+      baited by these stupid, slow-witted Arabs and their warnings and
+      croakings? I fancy a suspicion haunts my mind, as I write, that there lies
+      some motive behind all this. I wonder if these Arabs tell me all these
+      things to keep me here, in the hope that I might be induced another time
+      to assist them in their war with Mirambo! If they think so, they are much
+      mistaken, for I have taken a solemn, enduring oath, an oath to be kept
+      while the least hope of life remains in me, not to be tempted to break the
+      resolution I have formed, never to give up the search, until I find
+      Livingstone alive, or find his dead body; and never to return home without
+      the strongest possible proofs that he is alive, or that he is dead. No
+      living man, or living men, shall stop me, only death can prevent me. But
+      death&mdash;not even this; I shall not die, I will not die, I cannot die!
+      And something tells me, I do not know what it is&mdash;perhaps it is the
+      ever-living hopefulness of my own nature, perhaps it is the natural
+      presumption born out of an abundant and glowing vitality, or the outcome
+      of an overweening confidence in oneself&mdash;anyhow and everyhow,
+      something tells me to-night I shall find him, and&mdash;write it larger&mdash;FIND
+      HIM! FIND HIM! Even the words are inspiring. I feel more happy. Have I
+      uttered a prayer? I shall sleep calmly to-night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have felt myself compelled to copy out of my Diary the above notes, as
+      they explain, written as they are on the spot, the vicissitudes of my
+      "Life at Unyanyembe." To me they appear to explain far better than any
+      amount of descriptive writing, even of the most graphic, the nature of the
+      life I led. There they are, unexaggerated, in their literality, precisely
+      as I conceived them at the time they happened. They speak of fevers
+      without number to myself and men, they relate our dangers, and little
+      joys, our annoyances and our pleasures, as they occurred.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER X. &mdash; TO MRERA, UKONONGO.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Departure from Unyanyembe.&mdash;The expedition reorganized.&mdash;
+     Bombay.&mdash;Mr. Shaw returns sick to Unyanyembe.&mdash;A noble
+     forest.-The fever described.&mdash;Happiness of the camp.&mdash;A
+     park-land.&mdash;Herds of game and noble sport.&mdash;A mutiny.&mdash;
+     Punishment of the ringleaders. Elephants.&mdash;Arrival at Mrera
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The 20th of September had arrived. This was the day I had decided to cut
+      loose from those who tormented me with their doubts, their fears, and
+      beliefs, and commence the march to Ujiji by a southern route. I was very
+      weak from the fever that had attacked me the day before, and it was a most
+      injudicious act to commence a march under such circumstances. But I had
+      boasted to Sheikh bin Nasib that a white man never breaks his word, and my
+      reputation as a white man would have been ruined had I stayed behind, or
+      postponed the march, in consequence of feebleness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I mustered the entire caravan outside the tembe, our flags and streamers
+      were unfurled, the men had their loads resting on the walls, there was
+      considerable shouting, and laughing, and negroidal fanfaronnade. The Arabs
+      had collected from curiosity's sake to see us off&mdash;all except Sheikh
+      bin Nasib, whom I had offended by my asinine opposition to his wishes. The
+      old Sheikh took to his bed, but sent his son to bear me a last morsel of
+      Philosophic sentimentality, which I was to treasure up as the last words
+      of the patriarchal Sheikh, the son of Nasib, the son of Ali, the son of
+      Sayf. Poor Sheikh! if thou hadst only known what was at the bottom of this
+      stubbornness&mdash;this ass-like determination to proceed the wrong way&mdash;what
+      wouldst thou then have said, 0 Sheikh? But the Sheikh comforted himself
+      with the thought that I might know what I was about better than he did,
+      which is most likely, only neither he nor any other Arab will ever know
+      exactly the motive that induced me to march at all westward&mdash;when the
+      road to the east was ever so much easier.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My braves whom I had enlisted for a rapid march somewhere, out of
+      Unyanyembe, were named as follows:&mdash;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1. John William Shaw, London, England.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      2. Selim Heshmy, Arab.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3. Seedy Mbarak Mombay, Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4. Mabruki Spoke, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5. Ulimengo, ditto
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      6. Ambari, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      7. Uledi, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      8. Asmani, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      9. Sarmean, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      10. Kamna, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      11. Zaidi, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      12. Khamisi, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      13. Chowpereh, Bagamoyo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      14. Kingaru, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      15. Belali, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      16. Ferous, Unyanyembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      17. Rojab, Bagamoyo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      18. Mabruk Unyanyembe, Unyanyembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      19. Mtamani, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      20. Chanda, Maroro.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      21. Sadala, Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      22. Kombo, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      23. Saburi the Great, Maroro.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      24. Saburi the Little, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      25. Marora, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      26. Ferajji (the cook), Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      27. Mabruk Saleem, Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      28. Baraka, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      29. Ibrahim, Maroro.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      30. Mabruk Ferous, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      31. Baruti, Bagamoyo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      32. Umgareza, Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      33. Hamadi (the guide), ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      34. Asmani, ditto, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      35. Mabruk, ditto ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      36. Hamdallah (the guide), Tabora.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      37. Jumah, Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      38. Maganga, Mkwenkwe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      39. Muccadum, Tabora.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      40. Dasturi, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      41. Tumayona, Ujiji.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      42. Mparamoto, Ujiji.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      43. Wakiri, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      44. Mufu, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      45. Mpepo, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      46. Kapingu, Ujiji.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      47. Mashishanga, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      48. Muheruka, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      49. Missossi, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      50. Tufum Byah, ditto.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      51. Majwara (boy), Uganda.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      52. Belali (boy), Uemba.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      53. Kalulu (boy), Lunda.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      54. Abdul Kader (tailor), Malabar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These are the men and boys whom I had chosen to be my companions on the
+      apparently useless mission of seeking for the lost traveller, David
+      Livingstone. The goods with which I had burdened them, consisted of 1,000
+      doti, or 4,000 yds. of cloth, six bags of beads, four loads of ammunition,
+      one tent, one bed and clothes, one box of medicine, sextant and books, two
+      loads of tea, coffee, and sugar, one load of flour and candles, one load
+      of canned meats, sardines, and miscellaneous necessaries, and one load of
+      cooking utensils.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The men were all in their places except Bombay. Bombay had gone; he could
+      not be found. I despatched a man to hunt him up. He was found weeping in
+      the arms of his Delilah.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Why did you go away, Bombay, when you knew I intended to go, and was
+      waiting?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh, master, I was saying good-bye to my missis."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh, indeed?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes, master; you no do it, when you go away?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Silence, sir."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh! all right."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "What is the matter with you, Bombay?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh, nuffin."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As I saw he was in a humour to pick a quarrel with me before those Arabs
+      who had congregated outside of my tembe to witness my departure; and as I
+      was not in a humour to be balked by anything that might turn up, the
+      consequence was, that I was obliged to thrash Bombay, an operation which
+      soon cooled his hot choler, but brought down on my head a loud chorus of
+      remonstrances from my pretended Arab friends&mdash;"Now, master, don't,
+      don't&mdash;stop it, master: the poor man knows better than you what he
+      and you may expect on the road you are now taking."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If anything was better calculated to put me in a rage than Bombay's
+      insolence before a crowd it was this gratuitous interference with what I
+      considered my own especial business; but I restrained myself, though I
+      told them, in a loud voice, that I did not choose to be interfered with,
+      unless they wished to quarrel with me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "No, no, bana," they all exclaimed; "we do not wish to quarrel with you.
+      In the name of God! go on your way in peace."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Fare you well, then," said I, shaking hands with them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Farewell, master, farewell. We wish you, we are sure, all success, and
+      God be with you, and guide you!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "March!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A parting salute was fired; the flags were raised up by the guides, each
+      pagazi rushed for his load, and in a short time, with songs and shouts,
+      the head of the Expedition had filed round the western end of my tembe
+      along the road to Ugunda.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Now, Mr. Shaw, I am waiting, sir. Mount your donkey, if you cannot walk."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Please, Mr. Stanley, I am afraid I cannot go."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Why?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I don't know, I am sure. I feel very weak."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "So am I weak. It was but late last night, as you know, that the fever
+      left me. Don't back out before these Arabs; remember you are a white man.
+      Here, Selim, Mabruki, Bombay, help Mr. Shaw on his donkey, and walk by
+      him."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh, bana, bans," said the Arabs, "don't take him. Do you not see he is
+      sick?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "You keep away; nothing will prevent me from taking him. He shall go."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Go on, Bombay."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The last of my party had gone. The tembe, so lately a busy scene, had
+      already assumed a naked, desolate appearance. I turned towards the Arabs,
+      lifted my hat, and said again, "Farewell," then faced about for the south,
+      followed by my four young gun-bearers, Selim, Kalulu, Majwara, and Belali.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After half an hour's march the scenery became more animated. Shaw began to
+      be amused. Bombay had forgotten our quarrel, and assured me, if I could
+      pass Mirambo's country, I should "catch the Tanganika;" Mabruki Burton
+      also believed we should. Selim was glad to leave Unyanyembe, where he had
+      suffered so much from fever; and there was a something in the bold aspect
+      of the hills which cropped upward&mdash;above fair valleys, that enlivened
+      and encouraged me to proceed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In an hour and a half, we arrived at our camp in the Kinyamwezi village of
+      Mkwenkwe, the birthplace&mdash;of our famous chanter Maganga.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My tent was pitched, the goods were stored in one of the tembes; but
+      one-half the men had returned to Kwihara, to take one more embrace of
+      their wives and concubines.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Towards night I was attacked once again with the intermittent fever.
+      Before morning it had departed, leaving me terribly prostrated with
+      weakness. I had heard the men conversing with each other over their
+      camp-fires upon the probable prospects of the next day. It was a question
+      with them whether I should continue the march. Mostly all were of opinion
+      that, since the master was sick, there would be no march. A superlative
+      obstinacy, however, impelled me on, merely to spite their supine souls;
+      but when I sallied out of my tent to call them to get ready, I found that
+      at least twenty were missing; and Livingstone's letter-carrier,
+      "Kaif-Halek"&mdash;or, How-do-ye-do?&mdash;had not arrived with Dr.
+      Livingstone's letter-bag.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Selecting twenty of the strongest and faithfulest men I despatched them
+      back to Unyanyembe in search of the missing men; and Selim was sent to
+      Sheikh bin Nasib to borrow, or buy, a long slave-chain.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Towards night my twenty detectives returned with nine of the missing men.
+      The Wajiji had deserted in a body, and they could not be found. Selim also
+      returned with a strong chain, capable of imprisoning within the collars
+      attached to it at least ten men. Kaif-Halek also appeared with the
+      letter-bag which he was to convey to Livingstone under my escort. The men
+      were then addressed, and the slave-chain exhibited to them. I told them
+      that I was the first white man who had taken a slave-chain with him on his
+      travels; but, as they were all so frightened of accompanying me, I was
+      obliged to make use of it, as it was the only means of keeping them
+      together. The good need never fear being chained by me&mdash;only the
+      deserters, the thieves, who received their hire and presents, guns and
+      ammunition, and then ran away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I would not put any one this time in chains; but whoever deserted after
+      this day, I should halt, and not continue the march till I found him,
+      after which he should march to Ujiji with the slave-chain round his neck.
+      "Do you hear?"&mdash;"Yes," was the answer. "Do you understand?"&mdash;"Yes."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We broke up camp at 6 P.M., and took the road for Inesuka, at which place
+      we arrived at 8 P.M.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When we were about commencing the march the next morning, it was
+      discovered that two more had deserted. Baraka and Bombay were at once
+      despatched to Unyanyembe to bring back the two missing men&mdash;Asmani
+      and Kingaru&mdash;with orders not to return without them. This was the
+      third time that the latter had deserted, as the reader may remember. While
+      the pursuit was being effected we halted at the village of Inesuka, more
+      for the sake of Shaw than any one else.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the evening the incorrigible deserters were brought back, and, as I had
+      threatened, were well flogged and chained, to secure them against further
+      temptation. Bombay and Baraka had a picturesque story to relate of the
+      capture; and, as I was in an exceedingly good humour, their services were
+      rewarded with a fine cloth each.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the following morning another carrier had absconded, taking with him
+      his hire of fifteen new cloths and a gun but to halt anywhere near
+      Unyanyembe any longer was a danger that could be avoided only by
+      travelling without stoppages towards the southern jungle-lands. It will be
+      remembered I had in my train the redoubtable Abdul Kader, the tailor, he
+      who had started from Bagamoyo with such bright anticipations of the wealth
+      of ivory to be obtained in the great interior of Africa. On this morning,
+      daunted by the reports of the dangers ahead, Abdul Kader craved to be
+      discharged. He vowed he was sick, and unable to proceed any further. As I
+      was pretty well tired of him, I paid him off in cloth, and permitted him
+      to go.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About half way to Kasegera Mabruk Saleem was suddenly taken sick. I
+      treated him with a grain of calomel, and a couple of ounces of brandy. As
+      he was unable to walk, I furnished him with a donkey. Another man named
+      Zaidi was ill with a rheumatic fever; and Shaw tumbled twice off the
+      animal he was riding, and required an infinite amount of coaxing to mount
+      again. Verily, my expedition was pursued by adverse fortunes, and it
+      seemed as if the Fates had determined upon our return. It really appeared
+      as if everything was going to wreck and ruin. If I were only fifteen days
+      from Unyanyembe, thought I, I should be saved!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kasegera was a scene of rejoicing the afternoon and evening of our
+      arrival. Absentees had just returned from the coast, and the youths were
+      brave in their gaudy bedizenment, their new barsatis, their soharis, and
+      long cloths of bright new kaniki, with which they had adorned themselves
+      behind some bush before they had suddenly appeared dressed in all this
+      finery. The women "Hi-hi'ed" like maenads, and the "Lu-lu-lu'ing" was
+      loud, frequent, and fervent the whole of that afternoon. Sylphlike damsels
+      looked up to the youthful heroes with intensest admiration on their
+      features; old women coddled and fondled them; staff-using, stooping-backed
+      patriarchs blessed them. This is fame in Unyamwezi! All the fortunate
+      youths had to use their tongues until the wee hours of next morning had
+      arrived, relating all the wonders they had seen near the Great Sea, and in
+      the "Unguja," the island of Zanzibar; of how they saw great white men's
+      ships, and numbers of white men, of their perils and trials during their
+      journey through the land of the fierce Wagogo, and divers other facts,
+      with which the reader and I are by this time well acquainted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 24th we struck camp, and marched through a forest of imbiti wood in
+      a S.S.W. direction, and in about three hours came to Kigandu.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On arriving before this village, which is governed by a daughter of
+      Mkasiwa, we were informed we could not enter unless we paid toll. As we
+      would not pay toll, we were compelled to camp in a ruined, rat-infested
+      boma, situated a mile to the left of Kigandu, being well scolded by the
+      cowardly natives for deserting Mkasiwa in his hour of extremity. We were
+      accused of running away from the war.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Almost on the threshold of our camp Shaw, in endeavouring to dismount,
+      lost his stirrups, and fell prone on his face. The foolish fellow
+      actually, laid on the ground in the hot sun a full hour; and when I coldly
+      asked him if he did not feel rather uncomfortable, he sat up, and wept
+      like a child.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Do you wish to go back, Mr. Shaw?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "If you please. I do not believe I can go any farther; and if you would
+      only be kind enough, I should like to return very much."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, Mr. Shaw, I have come to the conclusion that it is best, you should
+      return. My patience is worn out. I have endeavoured faithfully to lift you
+      above these petty miseries which you nourish so devotedly. You are simply
+      suffering from hypochondria. You imagine yourself sick, and nothing,
+      evidently, will persuade you that you are not. Mark my words&mdash;to
+      return to Unyanyembe, is to DIE! Should you happen to fall sick in Kwihara
+      who knows how to administer medicine to you? Supposing you are delirious,
+      how can any of the soldiers know what you want, or what is beneficial and
+      necessary for you? Once again, I repeat, if you return, you DIE!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Ah, dear me; I wish I had never ventured to come! I thought life in
+      Africa was so different from this. I would rather go back if you will
+      permit me."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day was a halt, and arrangements were made for the transportation
+      of Shaw back to Kwihara. A strong litter was made, and four stout pagazis
+      were hired at Kigandu to carry him. Bread was baked, a canteen was filled
+      with cold tea, and a leg of a kid was roasted for his sustenance while on
+      the road.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The night before we parted we spent together. Shaw played some tunes on an
+      accordion which I had purchased for him at Zanzibar; but, though it was
+      only a miserable ten-dollar affair, I thought the homely tunes evoked from
+      the instrument that night were divine melodies. The last tune played
+      before retiring was "Home, sweet Home."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The morning of the 27th we were all up early: There was considerable vis
+      in our movements. A long, long march lay before us that day; but then I
+      was to leave behind all the sick and ailing. Only those who were healthy,
+      and could march fast and long, were to accompany me. Mabruk Saleem I left
+      in charge of a native doctor, who was to medicate him for a gift of cloth
+      which I gave him in advance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The horn sounded to get ready. Shaw was lifted in his litter on the
+      shoulders of his carriers. My men formed two ranks; the flags were lifted;
+      and between these two living rows, and under those bright streamers, which
+      were to float over the waters of the Tanganika before he should see them
+      again, Shaw was borne away towards the north; while we filed off to the
+      south, with quicker and more elastic steps, as if we felt an incubus had
+      been taken from us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We ascended a ridge bristling with syenite boulders of massive size,
+      appearing above a forest of dwarf trees. The view which we saw was similar
+      to that we had often seen elsewhere. An illimitable forest stretching in
+      grand waves far beyond the ken of vision&mdash;ridges, forest-clad, rising
+      gently one above another until they receded in the dim purple-blue
+      distance&mdash;with a warm haze floating above them, which, though clear
+      enough in our neighbourhood, became impenetrably blue in the far distance.
+      Woods, woods, woods, leafy branches, foliage globes, or parachutes, green,
+      brown, or sere in colour, forests one above another, rising, falling, and
+      receding&mdash;a very leafy ocean. The horizon, at all points, presents
+      the same view, there may be an indistinct outline of a hill far away, or
+      here and there a tall tree higher than the rest conspicuous in its
+      outlines against the translucent sky&mdash;with this exception it is the
+      same&mdash;the same clear sky dropping into the depths of the forest, the
+      same outlines, the same forest, the same horizon, day after day, week
+      after week; we hurry to the summit of a ridge, expectant of a change, but
+      the wearied eyes, after wandering over the vast expanse, return to the
+      immediate surroundings, satiated with the eversameness of such scenes.
+      Carlyle, somewhere in his writings, says, that though the Vatican is
+      great, it is but the chip of an eggshell compared to the star-fretted dome
+      where Arcturus and Orion glance for ever; and I say that, though the grove
+      of Central Park, New York, is grand compared to the thin groves seen in
+      other great cities, that though the Windsor and the New Forests may be
+      very fine and noble in England, yet they are but fagots of sticks compared
+      to these eternal forests of Unyamwezi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We marched three hours, and then halted for refreshments. I perceived that
+      the people were very tired, not yet inured to a series of long marches, or
+      rather, not in proper trim for earnest, hard work after our long rest in
+      Kwihara. When we resumed our march again there were several manifestations
+      of bad temper and weariness. But a few good-natured remarks about their
+      laziness put them on their mettle, and we reached Ugunda at 2 P.M. after
+      another four hours' spurt.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ugunda is a very large village in the district of Ugunda, which adjoins
+      the southern frontier of Unyanyembe. The village probably numbers four
+      hundred families, or two thousand souls. It is well protected by a tall
+      and strong palisade of three-inch timber. Stages have been erected at
+      intervals above the palisades with miniature embrasures in the timber, for
+      the muskets of the sharpshooters, who take refuge within these box-like
+      stages to pick out the chiefs of an attacking force. An inner ditch, with
+      the sand or soil thrown up three or four feet high against the palings,
+      serves as protection for the main body of the defenders, who kneel in the
+      ditch, and are thus enabled to withstand a very large force. For a mile or
+      two outside the village all obstructions are cleared, and the besieged are
+      thus warned by sharp-eyed watchers to be prepared for the defence before
+      the enemy approaches within musket range. Mirambo withdrew his force of
+      robbers from before this strongly-defended village after two or three
+      ineffectual attempts to storm it, and the Wagunda have been congratulating
+      themselves ever since, upon having driven away the boldest marauder that
+      Unyamwezi has seen for generations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wagunda have about three thousand acres under cultivation around their
+      principal village, and this area suffices to produce sufficient grain not
+      only for their own consumption, but also for the many caravans which pass
+      by this way for Ufipa and Marungu.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      However brave the Wagunda may be within the strong enclosure with which
+      they have surrounded their principal village, they are not exempt from the
+      feeling of insecurity which fills the soul of a Mnyamwezi during war-time.
+      At this place the caravans are accustomed to recruit their numbers from
+      the swarms of pagazis who volunteer to accompany them to the distant ivory
+      regions south; but I could not induce a soul to follow me, so great was
+      their fear of Mirambo and his Ruga-Raga. They were also full of rumors of
+      wars ahead. It was asserted that Mbogo was advancing towards Ugunda with a
+      thousand Wakonongo, that the Wazavira had attacked a caravan four months
+      previously, that Simba was scouring the country with a band of ferocious
+      mercenaries, and much more of the same nature and to the same intent.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 28th we arrived at a small snug village embosomed within the forest
+      called Benta, three hours and a quarter from Ugunda. The road led through
+      the cornfields of the Wagunda, and then entered the clearings around the
+      villages of Kisari, within one of which we found the proprietor of a
+      caravan who was drumming up carriers for Ufipa. He had been halted here
+      two months, and he made strenuous exertions to induce my men to join his
+      caravan, a proceeding that did not tend to promote harmony between us. A
+      few days afterwards I found, on my return, that he had given up the idea
+      of proceeding south. Leaving Kisari, we marched through a thin jungle of
+      black jack, over sun-cracked ground with here and there a dried-up pool,
+      the bottom of which was well tramped by elephant and rhinoceros. Buffalo
+      and zebra tracks were now frequent, and we were buoyed up with the hope
+      that before long we should meet game.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Benta was well supplied with Indian corn and a grain which the natives
+      called choroko, which I take to be vetches. I purchased a large supply of
+      choroko for my own personal use, as I found it to be a most healthy food.
+      The corn was stored on the flat roofs of the tembes in huge boxes made out
+      of the bark of the mtundu-tree. The largest box I have ever seen in Africa
+      was seen here. It might be taken for a Titan's hat-box; it was seven feet
+      in diameter, and ten feet in height.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 29th, after travelling in a S.W. by S. direction, we reached
+      Kikuru. The march lasted for five hours over sun-cracked plains, growing
+      the black jack, and ebony, and dwarf shrubs, above which numerous
+      ant-hills of light chalky-coloured earth appeared like sand dunes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The mukunguru, a Kisawahili term for fever, is frequent in this region of
+      extensive forests and flat plains, owing to the imperfect drainage
+      provided by nature for them. In the dry season there is nothing very
+      offensive in the view of the country. The burnt grass gives rather a
+      sombre aspect to the country, covered with the hard-baked tracks of
+      animals which haunt these plains during the latter part of the rainy
+      season. In the forest numbers of trees lie about in the last stages of
+      decay, and working away with might and main on the prostrate trunks may be
+      seen numberless insects of various species. Impalpably, however, the
+      poison of the dead and decaying vegetation is inhaled into the system with
+      a result sometimes as fatal as that which is said to arise from the
+      vicinity of the Upas-tree.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first evil results experienced from the presence of malaria are
+      confined bowels and an oppressive languor, excessive drowsiness, and a
+      constant disposition to yawn. The tongue assumes a yellowish, sickly hue,
+      coloured almost to blackness; even the teeth become yellow, and are coated
+      with an offensive matter. The eyes of the patient sparkle lustrously, and
+      become suffused with water. These are sure symptoms of the incipient fever
+      which shortly will rage through the system.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sometimes this fever is preceded by a violent shaking fit, during which
+      period blankets may be heaped on the patient's form, with but little
+      amelioration of the deadly chill he feels. It is then succeeded by an
+      unusually severe headache, with excessive pains about the loins and spinal
+      column, which presently will spread over the shoulder-blades, and, running
+      up the neck, find a final lodgment in the back and front of the head.
+      Usually, however, the fever is not preceded by a chill, but after languor
+      and torpitude have seized him, with excessive heat and throbbing temples,
+      the loin and spinal column ache, and raging thirst soon possesses him. The
+      brain becomes crowded with strange fancies, which sometimes assume most
+      hideous shapes. Before the darkened vision of the suffering man, float in
+      a seething atmosphere, figures of created and uncreated reptiles, which
+      are metamorphosed every instant into stranger shapes and designs, growing
+      every moment more confused, more complicated, more hideous and terrible.
+      Unable to bear longer the distracting scene, he makes an effort and opens,
+      his eyes, and dissolves the delirious dream, only, however, to glide again
+      unconsciously into another dream-land where another unreal inferno is
+      dioramically revealed, and new agonies suffered. Oh! the many many hours,
+      that I have groaned under the terrible incubi which the fits of real
+      delirium evoke. Oh! the racking anguish of body that a traveller in Africa
+      must undergo! Oh! the spite, the fretfulness, the vexation which the
+      horrible phantasmagoria of diabolisms induce! The utmost patience fails to
+      appease, the most industrious attendance fails to gratify, the deepest
+      humility displeases. During these terrible transitions, which induce
+      fierce distraction, Job himself would become irritable, insanely furious,
+      and choleric. A man in such a state regards himself as the focus of all
+      miseries. When recovered, he feels chastened, becomes urbane and
+      ludicrously amiable, he conjures up fictitious delights from all things
+      which, but yesterday, possessed for him such awful portentous aspects. His
+      men he regards with love and friendship; whatever is trite he views with
+      ecstasy. Nature appears charming; in the dead woods and monotonous forest
+      his mind becomes overwhelmed with delight. I speak for myself, as a
+      careful analysation of the attack, in all its severe, plaintive, and silly
+      phases, appeared to me. I used to amuse myself with taking notes of the
+      humorous and the terrible, the fantastic and exaggerated pictures that
+      were presented to me&mdash;even while suffering the paroxysms induced by
+      fever.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We arrived at a large pool, known as the Ziwani, after a four hours' march
+      in a S.S.W. direction, the 1st of October. We discovered an old half-burnt
+      khambi, sheltered by a magnificent mkuyu (sycamore), the giant of the
+      forests of Unyamwezi, which after an hour we transformed into a splendid
+      camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If I recollect rightly, the stem of the tree measured thirty-eight feet in
+      circumference. It is the finest tree of its kind I have seen in Africa. A
+      regiment might with perfect ease have reposed under this enormous dome of
+      foliage during a noon halt. The diameter of the shadow it cast on the
+      ground was one hundred and twenty feet. The healthful vigor that I was
+      enjoying about this time enabled me to regard my surroundings admiringly.
+      A feeling of comfort and perfect contentment took possession of me, such
+      as I knew not while fretting at Unyanyembe, wearing my life away in
+      inactivity. I talked with my people as to my friends and equals. We argued
+      with each other about our prospects in quite a companionable, sociable
+      vein.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When daylight was dying, and the sun was sinking down rapidly over the
+      western horizon, vividly painting the sky with the colours of gold and
+      silver, saffron, and opal, when its rays and gorgeous tints were reflected
+      upon the tops of the everlasting forest, with the quiet and holy calm of
+      heaven resting upon all around, and infusing even into the untutored minds
+      of those about me the exquisite enjoyments of such a life as we were now
+      leading in the depths of a great expanse of forest, the only and sole
+      human occupants of it&mdash;this was the time, after our day's work was
+      ended, and the camp was in a state of perfect security, when we all would
+      produce our pipes, and could best enjoy the labors which we had performed,
+      and the contentment which follows a work well done.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Outside nothing is heard beyond the cry of a stray florican, or
+      guinea-fowl, which has lost her mate, or the hoarse croaking of the frogs
+      in the pool hard by, or the song of the crickets which seems to lull the
+      day to rest; inside our camp are heard the gurgles of the gourd pipes as
+      the men inhale the blue ether, which I also love. I am contented and
+      happy, stretched on my carpet under the dome of living foliage, smoking my
+      short meerschaum, indulging in thoughts&mdash;despite the beauty of the
+      still grey light of the sky; and of the air of serenity which prevails
+      around&mdash;of home and friends in distant America, and these thoughts
+      soon change to my work&mdash;yet incomplete&mdash;to the man who to me is
+      yet a myth, who, for all I know, may be dead, or may be near or far from
+      me tramping through just such a forest, whose tops I see bound the view
+      outside my camp. We are both on the same soil, perhaps in the same forest&mdash;who
+      knows?&mdash;yet is he to me so far removed that he might as well be in
+      his own little cottage of Ulva. Though I am even now ignorant of his very
+      existence, yet I feel a certain complacency, a certain satisfaction which
+      would be difficult to describe. Why is man so feeble, and weak, that he
+      must tramp, tramp hundreds of miles to satisfy the doubts his impatient
+      and uncurbed mind feels? Why cannot my form accompany the bold flights of
+      my mind and satisfy the craving I feel to resolve the vexed question that
+      ever rises to my lips&mdash;"Is he alive?" O soul of mine, be patient,
+      thou hast a felicitous tranquillity, which other men might envy thee!
+      Sufficient for the hour is the consciousness thou hast that thy mission is
+      a holy one! Onward, and be hopeful!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Monday, the 2nd of October, found us traversing the forest and plain that
+      extends from the Ziwani to Manyara, which occupied us six and a half
+      hours. The sun was intensely hot; but the mtundu and miombo trees grew at
+      intervals, just enough to admit free growth to each tree, while the
+      blended foliage formed a grateful shade. The path was clear and easy, the
+      tamped and firm red soil offered no obstructions. The only provocation we
+      suffered was from the attacks of the tsetse, or panga (sword) fly, which
+      swarmed here. We knew we were approaching an extensive habitat of game,
+      and we were constantly on the alert for any specimens that might be
+      inhabiting these forests.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While we were striding onward, at the rate of nearly three miles an hour,
+      the caravan I perceived sheered off from the road, resuming it about fifty
+      yards ahead of something on the road, to which the attention of the men
+      was directed. On coming up, I found the object to be the dead body of a
+      man, who had fallen a victim to that fearful scourge of Africa, the
+      small-pox. He was one of Oseto's gang of marauders, or guerillas, in the
+      service of Mkasiwa of Unyanyembe, who were hunting these forests for the
+      guerillas of Mirambo. They had been returning from Ukonongo from a raid
+      they had instituted against the Sultan of Mbogo, and they had left their
+      comrade to perish in the road. He had apparently been only one day dead.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Apropos of this, it was a frequent thing with us to discover a skeleton or
+      a skull on the roadside. Almost every day we saw one, sometimes two, of
+      these relics of dead, and forgotten humanity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Shortly after this we emerged from the forest, and entered a mbuga, or
+      plain, in which we saw a couple of giraffes, whose long necks were seen
+      towering above a bush they had been nibbling at. This sight was greeted
+      with a shout; for we now knew we had entered the game country, and that
+      near the Gombe creek, or river, where we intended to halt, we should see
+      plenty of these animals.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A walk of three hours over this hot plain brought us to the cultivated
+      fields of Manyara. Arriving before the village-gate, we were forbidden to
+      enter, as the country was throughout in a state of war, and it behoved
+      them to be very careful of admitting any party, lest the villagers might
+      be compromised. We were, however, directed to a khambi to the right of the
+      village, near some pools of clear water, where we discovered some half
+      dozen ruined huts, which looked very uncomfortable to tired people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After we had built our camp, the kirangozi was furnished with some cloths
+      to purchase food from the village for the transit of a wilderness in front
+      of us, which was said to extend nine marches, or 135 miles. He was
+      informed that the Mtemi had strictly prohibited his people from selling
+      any grain whatever.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This evidently was a case wherein the exercise of a little diplomacy could
+      only be effective; because it would detain us several days here, if we
+      were compelled to send men back to Kikuru for provisions. Opening a bale
+      of choice goods, I selected two royal cloths, and told Bombay to carry
+      them to him, with the compliments and friendship of the white man. The
+      Sultan sulkily refused them, and bade him return to the white man and tell
+      him not to bother him. Entreaties were of no avail, he would not relent;
+      and the men, in exceedingly bad temper, and hungry, were obliged to go to
+      bed supperless. The words of Njara, a slave-trader, and parasite of the
+      great Sheikh bin Nasib, recurred to me. "Ah, master, master, you will find
+      the people will be too much for you, and that you will have to return. The
+      Wa-manyara are bad, the Wakonongo are very bad, the Wazavira are the worst
+      of all. You have come to this country at a bad time. It is war
+      everywhere." And, indeed, judging from the tenor of the conversations
+      around our camp-fires, it seemed but too evident. There was every prospect
+      of a general decamp of all my people. However, I told them not to be
+      discouraged; that I would get food for them in the morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bale of choice cloths was opened again next morning, and four royal
+      cloths were this time selected, and two dotis of Merikani, and Bombay was
+      again despatched, burdened with compliments, and polite words.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was necessary to be very politic with a man who was so surly, and too
+      powerful to make an enemy of. What if he made up his mind to imitate the
+      redoubtable Mirambo, King of Uyoweh! The effect of my munificent
+      liberality was soon seen in the abundance of provender which came to my
+      camp. Before an hour went by, there came boxes full of choroko, beans,
+      rice, matama or dourra, and Indian corn, carried on the heads of a dozen
+      villagers, and shortly after the Mtemi himself came, followed by about
+      thirty musketeers and twenty spearmen, to visit the first white man ever
+      seen on this road. Behind these warriors came a liberal gift, fully equal
+      in value to that sent to him, of several large gourds of honey, fowls,
+      goats, and enough vetches and beans to supply my men with four days' food.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I met the chief at the gate of my camp, and bowing profoundly, invited him
+      to my tent, which I had arranged as well as my circumstances would permit,
+      for this reception. My Persian carpet and bear skin were spread out, and a
+      broad piece of bran-new crimson cloth covered my kitanda, or bedstead.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The chief, a tall robust man, and his chieftains, were invited to seat
+      themselves. They cast a look of such gratified surprise at myself, at my
+      face, my clothes, and guns, as is almost impossible to describe. They
+      looked at me intently for a few seconds, and then at each other, which
+      ended in an uncontrollable burst of laughter, and repeated snappings of
+      the fingers. They spoke the Kinyamwezi language, and my interpreter
+      Maganga was requested to inform the chief of the great delight I felt in
+      seeing them. After a short period expended in interchanging compliments,
+      and a competitive excellence at laughing at one another, their chief
+      desired me to show him my guns. The "sixteen-shooter," the Winchester
+      rifle, elicited a thousand flattering observations from the excited man;
+      and the tiny deadly revolvers, whose beauty and workmanship they thought
+      were superhuman, evoked such gratified eloquence that I was fain to try
+      something else. The double-barrelled guns fired with heavy charges of
+      power, caused them to jump up in affected alarm, and then to subside into
+      their seats convulsed with laughter. As the enthusiasm of my guests
+      increased, they seized each other's index fingers, screwed them, and
+      pulled at them until I feared they would end in their dislocation. After
+      having explained to them the difference between white men and Arabs, I
+      pulled out my medicine chest, which evoked another burst of rapturous
+      sighs at the cunning neatness of the array of vials. He asked what they
+      meant.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Dowa," I replied sententiously, a word which may be interpreted&mdash;medicine.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh-h, oh-h," they murmured admiringly. I succeeded, before long, in
+      winning unqualified admiration, and my superiority, compared to the best
+      of the Arabs they had seen, was but too evident. "Dowa, dowa," they added.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Here," said I, uncorking a vial of medicinal brandy, "is the Kisungu
+      pombe" (white man's beer); "take a spoonful and try it," at the same time
+      handing it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Hacht, hacht, oh, hacht! what! eh! what strong beer the white men have!
+      Oh, how my throat burns!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Ah, but it is good," said I, "a little of it makes men feel strong, and
+      good; but too much of it makes men bad, and they die."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Let me have some," said one of the chiefs; "and me," "and me," "and me,"
+      as soon as each had tasted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I next produced a bottle of concentrated ammonia, which as I explained
+      was for snake bites, and head-aches; the Sultan immediately complained he
+      had a head-ache, and must have a little. Telling him to close his eyes, I
+      suddenly uncorked the bottle, and presented it to His Majesty's nose. The
+      effect was magical, for he fell back as if shot, and such contortions as
+      his features underwent are indescribable. His chiefs roared with laughter,
+      and clapped their hands, pinched each other, snapped their fingers, and
+      committed many other ludicrous things. I verily believe if such a scene
+      were presented on any stage in the world the effect of it would be visible
+      instantaneously on the audience; that had they seen it as I saw it, they
+      would have laughed themselves to hysteria and madness. Finally the Sultan
+      recovered himself, great tears rolling down his cheeks, and his features
+      quivering with laughter, then he slowly uttered the word 'kali,'&mdash;hot,
+      strong, quick, or ardent medicine. He required no more, but the other
+      chiefs pushed forward to get one wee sniff, which they no sooner had, than
+      all went into paroxysms of uncontrollable laughter. The entire morning was
+      passed in this state visit, to the mutual satisfaction of all concerned.
+      'Oh,' said the Sultan at parting, 'these white men know everything, the
+      Arabs are dirt compared to them!'"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      That night Hamdallah, one of the guides, deserted, carrying with him his
+      hire (27 doti), and a gun. It was useless to follow him in the morning, as
+      it would have detained me many more days than I could afford; but I
+      mentally vowed that Mr. Hamdallah should work out those 27 doti of cloths
+      before I reached the coast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Wednesday, October 4th, saw us travelling to the Gombe River, which is 4
+      h. 15 m. march from Manyara.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We had barely left the waving cornfields of my friend Ma-manyara before we
+      came in sight of a herd of noble zebra; two hours afterwards we had
+      entered a grand and noble expanse of park land, whose glorious
+      magnificence and vastness of prospect, with a far-stretching carpet of
+      verdure darkly flecked here and there by miniature clumps of jungle, with
+      spreading trees growing here and there, was certainly one of the finest
+      scenes to be seen in Africa. Added to which, as I surmounted one of the
+      numerous small knolls, I saw herds after herds of buffalo and zebra,
+      giraffe and antelope, which sent the blood coursing through my veins in
+      the excitement of the moment, as when I first landed on African soil. We
+      crept along the plain noiselessly to our camp on the banks of the sluggish
+      waters of the Gombe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here at last was the hunter's Paradise! How petty and insignificant
+      appeared my hunts after small antelope and wild boar what a foolish waste
+      of energies those long walks through damp grasses and through thorny
+      jungles! Did I not well remember ' my first bitter experience in African
+      jungles when in the maritime region! But this&mdash;where is the
+      nobleman's park that can match this scene? Here is a soft, velvety expanse
+      of young grass, grateful shade under those spreading clumps; herds of
+      large and varied game browsing within easy rifle range. Surely I must feel
+      amply compensated now for the long southern detour I have made, when such
+      a prospect as this opens to the view! No thorny jungles and rank smelling
+      swamps are here to daunt the hunter, and to sicken his aspirations after
+      true sport! No hunter could aspire after a nobler field to display his
+      prowess.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having settled the position of the camp, which overlooked one of the pools
+      found in the depression of the Gombe creek, I took my double-barrelled
+      smooth-bore, and sauntered off to the park-land. Emerging from behind a
+      clump, three fine plump spring-bok were seen browsing on the young grass
+      just within one hundred yards. I knelt down and fired; one unfortunate
+      antelope bounded upward instinctively, and fell dead. Its companions
+      sprang high into the air, taking leaps about twelve feet in length, as if
+      they were quadrupeds practising gymnastics, and away they vanished, rising
+      up like India-rubber balls; until a knoll hid them from view. My success
+      was hailed with loud shouts by the soldiers; who came running out from the
+      camp as soon as they heard the reverberation of the gun, and my gun-bearer
+      had his knife at the beast's throat, uttering a fervent "Bismillah!" as he
+      almost severed the head from the body.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hunters were now directed to proceed east and north to procure meat,
+      because in each caravan it generally happens that there are fundi, whose
+      special trade it is to hunt for meat for the camp. Some of these are
+      experts in stalking, but often find themselves in dangerous positions,
+      owing to the near approach necessary, before they can fire their most
+      inaccurate weapons with any certainty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After luncheon, consisting of spring-bok steak, hot corn-cake, and a cup
+      of delicious Mocha coffee, I strolled towards the south-west, accompanied
+      by Kalulu and Majwara, two boy gun-bearers. The tiny perpusilla started up
+      like rabbits from me as I stole along through the underbrush; the
+      honey-bird hopped from tree to tree chirping its call, as if it thought I
+      was seeking the little sweet treasure, the hiding-place of which it only
+      knew; but no! I neither desired perpusilla nor the honey. I was on the
+      search for something great this day. Keen-eyed fish-eagles and bustards
+      poised on trees above the sinuous Gombe thought, and probably with good
+      reason that I was after them; judging by the ready flight with which both
+      species disappeared as they sighted my approach. Ah, no! nothing but
+      hartebeest, zebra, giraffe, eland, and buffalo this day! After following
+      the Gombe's course for about a mile, delighting my eyes with long looks at
+      the broad and lengthy reaches of water to which I was so long a stranger,
+      I came upon a scene which delighted the innermost recesses of my soul;
+      five, six, seven, eight, ten zebras switching their beautiful striped
+      bodies, and biting one another, within about one hundred and fifty yards.
+      The scene was so pretty, so romantic, never did I so thoroughly realize
+      that I was in Central Africa. I felt momentarily proud that I owned such a
+      vast domain, inhabited with such noble beasts. Here I possessed, within
+      reach of a leaden ball, any one I chose of the beautiful animals, the
+      pride of the African forests! It was at my option to shoot any of them!
+      Mine they were without money or without price; yet, knowing this, twice I
+      dropped my rifle, loth to wound the royal beasts, but&mdash;crack! and a
+      royal one was on his back battling the air with his legs. Ah, it was such
+      a pity! but, hasten, draw the keen sharp-edged knife across the beautiful
+      stripes which fold around the throat; and&mdash;what an ugly gash! it is
+      done, and 1 have a superb animal at my feet. Hurrah! I shall taste of
+      Ukonongo zebra to-night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I thought a spring-bok and zebra enough for one day's sport, especially
+      after a long march. The Gombe, a long stretch of deep water, winding in
+      and out of green groves, calm, placid, with lotus leaves lightly resting
+      on its surface, all pretty, picturesque, peaceful as a summer's dream,
+      looked very inviting for a bath. I sought out the most shady spot under a
+      wide-spreading mimosa, from which the ground sloped smooth as a lawn, to
+      the still, clear water. I ventured to undress, and had already stepped in
+      to my ancles in the water, and had brought my hands together for a
+      glorious dive, when my attention was attracted by an enormously long body
+      which shot into view, occupying the spot beneath the surface that I was
+      about to explore by a "header." Great heavens, it was a crocodile! I
+      sprang backward instinctively, and this proved my salvation, for the
+      monster turned away with the most disappointed look, and I was left to
+      congratulate myself upon my narrow escape from his jaws, and to register a
+      vow never to be tempted again by the treacherous calm of an African river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As soon as I had dressed I turned away from the now repulsive aspect of
+      the stream. In strolling through the jungle, towards my camp, I detected
+      the forms of two natives looking sharply about them, and, after bidding my
+      young attendants to preserve perfect quiet, I crept on towards them, and,
+      by the aid of a thick clump of underbush, managed to arrive within a few
+      feet of the natives undetected. Their mere presence in the immense forest,
+      unexplained, was a cause of uneasiness in the then disturbed state of the
+      country, and my intention was to show myself suddenly to them, and note
+      its effect, which, if it betokened anything hostile to the Expedition,
+      could without difficulty be settled at once, with the aid of my
+      double-barrelled smooth-bore.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As I arrived on one side of this bush, the two suspicious-looking natives
+      arrived on the other side, and we were separated by only a few feet. I
+      made a bound, and we were face to face. The natives cast a glance at the
+      sudden figure of a white man, and seemed petrified for a moment, but then,
+      recovering themselves, they shrieked out, "Bana, bana, you don't know us.
+      We are Wakonongo, who came to your camp to accompany you to Mrera, and we
+      are looking for honey."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh, to be sure, you are the Wakonongo. Yes&mdash;Yes. Ah, it is all right
+      now, I thought you might be Ruga-Ruga."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      So the two parties, instead of being on hostile terms with each other,
+      burst out laughing. The Wakonongo enjoyed it very much, and laughed
+      heartily as they proceeded on their way to search for the wild honey. On a
+      piece of bark they carried a little fire with which they smoked the bees
+      out from their nest in the great mtundu-trees.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The adventures of the day were over; the azure of the sky had changed to a
+      dead grey; the moon was appearing just over the trees; the water of the
+      Gombe was like a silver belt; hoarse frogs bellowed their notes loudly by
+      the margin of the creek; the fish-eagles uttered their dirge-like cries as
+      they were perched high on the tallest tree; elands snorted their warning
+      to the herds in the forest; stealthy forms of the carnivora stole through
+      the dark woods outside of our camp. Within the high inclosure of bush and
+      thorn, which we had raised around our camp, all was jollity, laughter, and
+      radiant, genial comfort. Around every camp-fire dark forms of men were
+      seen squatted: one man gnawed at a luscious bone; another sucked the rich
+      marrow in a zebra's leg-bone; another turned the stick, garnished with
+      huge kabobs, to the bright blaze; another held a large rib over a flame;
+      there were others busy stirring industriously great black potfuls of
+      ugali, and watching anxiously the meat simmering, and the soup bubbling,
+      while the fire-light flickered and danced bravely, and cast a bright glow
+      over the naked forms of the men, and gave a crimson tinge to the tall tent
+      that rose in the centre of the camp, like a temple sacred to some
+      mysterious god; the fires cast their reflections upon the massive arms of
+      the trees, as they branched over our camp, and, in the dark gloom of their
+      foliage, the most fantastic shadows were visible. Altogether it was a
+      wild, romantic, and impressive scene. But little recked my men for shadows
+      and moonlight, for crimson tints, and temple-like tents&mdash;they were
+      all busy relating their various experiences, and gorging themselves with
+      the rich meats our guns had obtained for us. One was telling how he had
+      stalked a wild boar, and the furious onset the wounded animal made on him,
+      causing him to drop his gun, and climb a tree, and the terrible grunt of
+      the beast he well remembered, and the whole welkin rang with the peals of
+      laughter which his mimic powers evoked. Another had shot a buffalo-calf,
+      and another had bagged a hartebeest; the Wakonongo related their laughable
+      rencontre with me in the woods, and were lavish in their description of
+      the stores of honey to be found in the woods; and all this time Selim and
+      his youthful subs were trying their sharp teeth on the meat of a young pig
+      which one of the hunters had shot, but which nobody else would eat,
+      because of the Mohammedan aversion to pig, which they had acquired during
+      their transformation from negro savagery to the useful docility of the
+      Zanzibar freed-man.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We halted the two following days, and made frequent raids on the herds of
+      this fine country. The first day I was fairly successful again in the
+      sport. I bagged a couple of antelopes, a kudu (A. strepsiceros) with fine
+      twisting horns, and a pallah-buck (A. melampus), a reddish-brown animal,
+      standing about three and a half feet, with broad posteriors. I might have
+      succeeded in getting dozens of animals had I any of those accurate, heavy
+      rifles manufactured by Lancaster, Reilly, or Blissett, whose every shot
+      tells. But my weapons, save my light smoothbore, were unfit for African
+      game. My weapons were more for men. With the Winchester rifle, and the
+      Starr's carbine, I was able to hit anything within two hundred yards, but
+      the animals, though wounded, invariably managed to escape the knife, until
+      I was disgusted with the pea-bullets. What is wanted for this country is a
+      heavy bore&mdash;No. 10 or 12 is the real bone-crusher&mdash;that will
+      drop every animal shot in its tracks, by which all fatigue and
+      disappointment are avoided. Several times during these two days was I
+      disappointed after most laborious stalking and creeping along the ground.
+      Once I came suddenly upon an eland while I had a Winchester rifle in my
+      hand&mdash;the eland and myself mutually astonished&mdash;at not more than
+      twenty-five yards apart. I fired at its chest, and bullet, true to its
+      aim, sped far into the internal parts, and the blood spouted from the
+      wound: in a few minutes he was far away, and I was too much disappointed
+      to follow him. All love of the chase seemed to be dying away before these
+      several mishaps. What were two antelopes for one day's sport to the
+      thousands that browsed over the plain?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The animals taken to camp during our three days' sport were two buffaloes,
+      two wild boar, three hartebeest, one zebra, and one pallah; besides which,
+      were shot eight guinea-fowls, three florican, two fish-eagles, one
+      pelican, and one of the men caught a couple of large silurus fish. In the
+      meantime the people had cut, sliced, and dried this bounteous store of
+      meat for our transit through the long wilderness before us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Saturday the 7th day of October, we broke up camp, to the great regret of
+      the meat-loving, gormandizing Wangwana. They delegated Bombay early in the
+      morning to speak to me, and entreat of me to stop one day longer. It was
+      ever the case; they had always an unconquerable aversion to work, when in
+      presence of meat. Bombay was well scolded for bearing any such request to
+      me after two days' rest, during which time they had been filled to
+      repletion with meat. And Bombay was by no means in the best of humour;
+      flesh-pots full of meat were more to his taste than a constant tramping,
+      and its consequent fatigues. I saw his face settle into sulky ugliness,
+      and his great nether lip hanging down limp, which meant as if expressed in
+      so many words, "Well, get them to move yourself, you wicked hard man! I
+      shall not help you."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      An ominous silence followed my order to the kirangozi to sound the horn,
+      and the usual singing and chanting were not heard. The men turned sullenly
+      to their bales, and Asmani, the gigantic guide, our fundi, was heard
+      grumblingly to say he was sorry he had engaged to guide me to the
+      Tanganika. However, they started, though reluctantly. I stayed behind with
+      my gunbearers, to drive the stragglers on. In about half an hour I sighted
+      the caravan at a dead stop, with the bales thrown on the ground, and the
+      men standing in groups conversing angrily and excitedly.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Taking my double-barrelled gun from Selim's shoulder, I selected a dozen
+      charges of buck-shot, and slipping two of them into the barrels, and
+      adjusting my revolvers in order for handy work, I walked on towards them.
+      I noticed that the men seized their guns, as I advanced. When within
+      thirty yards of the groups, I discovered the heads of two men appear above
+      an anthill on my left, with the barrels of their guns carelessly pointed
+      toward the road.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I halted, threw the barrel of my gun into the hollow of the left hand, and
+      then, taking a deliberate aim at them, threatened to blow their heads off
+      if they did not come forward to talk to me. These two men were, gigantic
+      Asmani and his sworn companion Mabruki, the guides of Sheikh bin Nasib. As
+      it was dangerous not to comply with such an order, they presently came,
+      but, keeping my eye on Asmani, I saw him move his fingers to the trigger
+      of his gun, and bring his gun to a "ready." Again I lifted my gun, and
+      threatened him with instant death, if he did not drop his gun.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Asmani came on in a sidelong way with a smirking smile on his face, but in
+      his eyes shone the lurid light of murder, as plainly as ever it shone in a
+      villain's eyes. Mabruki sneaked to my rear, deliberately putting powder in
+      the pan of his musket, but sweeping the gun sharply round, I planted the
+      muzzle of it at about two feet from his wicked-looking face, and ordered
+      him to drop his gun instantly. He let it fall from his hand quickly, and
+      giving him a vigorous poke in the breast with my gun, which sent him
+      reeling away a few feet from me, I faced round to Asmani, and ordered him
+      to put his gun down, accompanying it with a nervous movement of my gun,
+      pressing gently on the trigger at the same time. Never was a man nearer
+      his death than was Asmani during those few moments. I was reluctant to
+      shed his blood, and I was willing to try all possible means to avoid doing
+      so; but if I did not succeed in cowing this ruffian, authority was at an
+      end. The truth was, they feared to proceed further on the road, and the
+      only possible way of inducing them to move was by an overpowering force,
+      and exercise of my power and will in this instance, even though he might
+      pay the penalty of his disobedience with death. As I was beginning to feel
+      that Asmani had passed his last moment on earth, as he was lifting his gun
+      to his shoulder, a form came up from behind him, and swept his gun aside
+      with an impatient, nervous movement, and I heard Mabruki Burton say in
+      horror-struck accents:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Man, how dare you point your gun, at the master?" Mabruki then threw
+      himself at my feet, and endeavoured to kiss them and entreated me not to
+      punish him. "It was all over now," he said; "there would be no more
+      quarreling, they would all go as far as the Tanganika, without any more
+      noise; and Inshallah!" said he, "we shall find the old Musungu * at
+      Ujiji."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      *Livingstone
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Speak, men, freedmen, shall we not?&mdash;shall we not go to the
+      Tanganika without any more trouble? tell the master with one voice."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Ay Wallah! Ay Wallah! Bana yango! Hamuna manneno mgini!" which literally
+      translated means, "Yes by God! Yes by God! my master! There are no other
+      words," said each man loudly.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Ask the master's pardon, man, or go thy way," said Mabruki peremptorily,
+      to Asmani: which Asmani did, to the gratification of us all.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It remained for me only to extend a general pardon to all except to Bombay
+      and Ambari, the instigators of the mutiny, which was now happily quelled.
+      For Bombay could have by a word, as my captain, nipped all manifestation
+      of bad temper at the outset, had he been so disposed. But no, Bombay was
+      more averse to marching than the cowardliest of his fellows, not because
+      he was cowardly, but because he loved indolence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Again the word was given to march, and each man, with astonishing
+      alacrity, seized his load, and filed off quickly out of sight.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While on this subject, I may as well give here a sketch of each of the
+      principal men whose names must often appear in the following chapters.
+      According to rank, they consist of Bombay, Mabruki Burton, Asmani the
+      guide, Chowpereh, Ulimengo, Khamisi, Ambari, Jumah, Ferajji the cook,
+      Maganga the Mnyamwezi, Selim the Arab boy, and youthful Kalulu a
+      gunbearer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Bombay has received an excellent character from Burton and Speke.
+      "Incarnation of honesty" Burton grandly terms him. The truth is, Bombay
+      was neither very honest nor very dishonest, i.e., he did not venture to
+      steal much. He sometimes contrived cunningly, as he distributed the meat,
+      to hide a very large share for his own use. This peccadillo of his did not
+      disturb me much; he deserved as captain a larger share than the others. He
+      required to be closely watched, and when aware that this was the case, he
+      seldom ventured to appropriate more cloth than I would have freely given
+      him, had he asked for it. As a personal servant, or valet, he would have
+      been unexceptionable, but as a captain or jemadar over his fellows, he was
+      out of his proper sphere. It was too much brain-work, and was too
+      productive of anxiety to keep him in order. At times he was helplessly
+      imbecile in his movements, forgot every order the moment it was given him,
+      consistently broke or lost some valuable article, was fond of argument,
+      and addicted to bluster. He thinks Hajji Abdullah one of the wickedest
+      white men born, because he saw him pick up men's skulls and put them in
+      sacks, as if he was about to prepare a horrible medicine with them. He
+      wanted to know whether his former master had written down all he himself
+      did, and when told that Burton had not said anything, in his books upon
+      the Lake Regions, upon collecting skulls at Kilwa, thought I would be
+      doing a good work if I published this important fact.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * Bombay intends to make a pilgrimage to visit Speke's grave
+     some day.
+
+     ** I find upon returning to England, that Capt. Burton has
+     informed the world of this "wicked and abominable deed," in
+     his book upon Zanzibar, and that the interesting collection
+     may be seen at the Royal College of Surgeons, London.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Mabruki, "Ras-bukra Mabruki," Bull-headed Mabruki, as Burton calls him, is
+      a sadly abused man in my opinion. Mabruki, though stupid, is faithful. He
+      is entirely out of his element as valet, he might as well be clerk. As a
+      watchman he is invaluable, as a second captain or fundi, whose duty it is
+      to bring up stragglers, he is superexcellent. He is ugly and vain, but he
+      is no coward.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Asmani the guide is a large fellow, standing over six feet, with the neck
+      and shoulders of a Hercules. Besides being guide, he is a fundi, sometimes
+      called Fundi Asmani, or hunter. A very superstitious man, who takes great
+      care of his gun, and talismanic plaited cord, which he has dipped in the
+      blood of all the animals he has ever shot. He is afraid of lions, and will
+      never venture out where lions are known to be. All other animals he
+      regards as game, and is indefatigable in their pursuit. He is seldom seen
+      without an apologetic or a treacherous smile on his face. He could draw a
+      knife across a man's throat and still smile.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Chowpereh is a sturdy short man of thirty or thereabouts; very
+      good-natured, and humorous. When Chowpereh speaks in his dry Mark Twain
+      style, the whole camp laughs. I never quarrel with Chowpereh, never did
+      quarrel with him. A kind word given to Chowpereh is sure to be
+      reciprocated with a good deed. He is the strongest, the healthiest, the
+      amiablest, the faithfulest of all. He is the embodiment of a good
+      follower.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Khamisi is a neat, cleanly boy of twenty, or thereabouts, active,
+      loud-voiced, a boaster, and the cowardliest of the cowardly. He will steal
+      at every opportunity. He clings to his gun most affectionately; is always
+      excessively anxious if a screw gets loose, or if a flint will not strike
+      fire, yet I doubt that he would be able to fire his gun at an enemy from
+      excessive trembling. Khamisi would rather trust his safety to his feet,
+      which are small, and well shaped.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ambari is a man of about forty. He is one of the "Faithfuls" of Speke, and
+      one of my Faithfuls. He would not run away from me except when in the
+      presence of an enemy, and imminent personal danger. He is clever in his
+      way, but is not sufficiently clever to enact the part of captain&mdash;could
+      take charge of a small party, and give a very good account of them. Is
+      lazy, and an admirer of good living&mdash;abhors marching, unless he has
+      nothing to carry but his gun.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Jumah is the best abused man of the party, because he has old-womanish
+      ways with him, yet in his old-womanish ways he is disposed to do the best
+      he can for me, though he will not carry a pound in weight without groaning
+      terribly at his hard fate. To me he is sentimental and pathetic; to the
+      unimportant members of the caravan he is stern and uncompromising. But the
+      truth is, that I could well dispense with Jumah's presence: he was one of
+      the incorrigible inutiles, eating far more than he was worth; besides
+      being an excessively grumbling and querulous fool.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ulimengo, a strong stalwart fellow of thirty, was the maddest and most
+      hare-brained of my party. Though an arrant coward, he was a consummate
+      boaster. But though a devotee of pleasure and fun, he was not averse from
+      work. With one hundred men such as he, I could travel through Africa
+      provided there was no fighting to do. It will be remembered that he was
+      the martial coryphaeus who led my little army to war against Mirambo,
+      chanting the battle-song of the Wangwana; and that I stated, that when the
+      retreat was determined upon, he was the first of my party to reach the
+      stronghold of Mfuto. He is a swift runner, and a fair hunter. I have been
+      indebted to him on several occasions for a welcome addition to my larder.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ferajji, a former dish-washer to Speke, was my cook. He was promoted to
+      this office upon the defection of Bunder Salaam, and the extreme
+      non-fitness of Abdul Kader. For cleaning dishes, the first corn-cob, green
+      twig, a bunch of leaves or grass, answered Ferajji's purposes in the
+      absence of a cloth. If I ordered a plate, and I pointed out a black,
+      greasy, sooty thumbmark to him, a rub of a finger Ferajji thought
+      sufficient to remove all objections. If I hinted that a spoon was rather
+      dirty, Ferajji fancied that with a little saliva, and a rub of his loin
+      cloth, the most fastidious ought to be satisfied. Every pound of meat, and
+      every three spoonfuls of musk or porridge I ate in Africa, contained at
+      least ten grains of sand. Ferajji was considerably exercised at a threat I
+      made to him that on arrival at Zanzibar, I would get the great English
+      doctor there to open my stomach, and count every grain of sand found in
+      it, for each grain of which Ferajji should be charged one dollar. The
+      consciousness that my stomach must contain a large number, for which the
+      forfeits would be heavy, made him feel very sad at times. Otherwise,
+      Ferajji was a good cook, most industrious, if not accomplished. He could
+      produce a cup of tea, and three or four hot pancakes, within ten minutes
+      after a halt was ordered, for which I was most grateful, as I was almost
+      always hungry after a long march. Ferajji sided with Baraka against Bombay
+      in Unyoro, and when Speke took Bombay's side of the question, Ferajji, out
+      of love for Baraka, left Speke's service, and so forfeited his pay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Maganga was a Mnyamwezi, a native of Mkwenkwe, a strong, faithful servant,
+      an excellent pagazi, with an irreproachable temper. He it was who at all
+      times, on the march, started the wildly exuberant song of the Wanyamwezi
+      porters, which, no matter how hot the sun, or how long the march, was sure
+      to produce gaiety and animation among the people. At such times all hands
+      sang, sang with voices that could be heard miles away, which made the
+      great forests ring with the sounds, which startled every animal big or
+      little, for miles around. On approaching a village the temper of whose
+      people might be hostile to us, Maganga would commence his song, with the
+      entire party joining in the chorus, by which mode we knew whether the
+      natives were disposed to be friendly or hostile. If hostile, or timid, the
+      gates would at once be closed, and dark faces would scowl at us from the
+      interior; if friendly, they rushed outside of their gates to welcome us,
+      or to exchange friendly remarks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      An important member of the Expedition was Selim, the young Arab. Without
+      some one who spoke good Arabic, I could not have obtained the friendship
+      of the chief Arabs in Unyanyembe; neither could I have well communicated
+      with them, for though I understood Arabic, I could not speak it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have already related how Kalulu came to be in my service, and how he
+      came to bear his present name. I soon found how apt and quick he was to
+      learn, in consequence of which, he was promoted to the rank of personal
+      attendant. Even Selim could not vie with Kalulu in promptness and
+      celerity, or in guessing my wants at the table. His little black eyes were
+      constantly roving over the dishes, studying out the problem of what was
+      further necessary, or had become unnecessary.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We arrived at the Ziwani, in about 4 h. 30 m. from the time of our
+      quitting the scene which had well-nigh witnessed a sanguinary conflict.
+      The Ziwani, or pool, contained no water, not a drop, until the parched
+      tongues of my people warned them that they must proceed and excavate for
+      water. This excavation was performed (by means of strong hard sticks
+      sharply pointed) in the dry hard-caked bottom. After digging to a depth of
+      six feet their labours were rewarded with the sight of a few drops of
+      muddy liquid percolating through the sides, which were eagerly swallowed
+      to relieve their raging thirst. Some voluntarily started with buckets,
+      gourds, and canteens south to a deserted clearing called the "Tongoni" in
+      Ukamba, and in about three hours returned with a plentiful supply for
+      immediate use, of good and clear water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In 1 h. 30 m. we arrived at this Tongoni, or deserted clearing of the
+      Wakamba. Here were three or four villages burnt, and an extensive clearing
+      desolate, the work of the Wa-Ruga-Raga of Mirambo. Those of the
+      inhabitants who were left, after the spoliation and complete destruction
+      of the flourishing settlement, emigrated westerly to Ugara. A large herd
+      of buffalo now slake their thirst at the pool which supplied the villages
+      of Ukamba with water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Great masses of iron haematite cropped up above the surfaces in these
+      forests. Wild fruit began to be abundant; the wood-apple and tamarind and
+      a small plum-like fruit, furnished us with many an agreeable repast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The honey-bird is very frequent in these forests of Ukonongo. Its cry is a
+      loud, quick chirrup. The Wakonongo understand how to avail themselves of
+      its guidance to the sweet treasure of honey which the wild bees have
+      stored in the cleft of some great tree. Daily, the Wakonongo who had
+      joined our caravan brought me immense cakes of honey-comb, containing
+      delicious white and red honey. The red honey-comb generally contains large
+      numbers of dead bees, but our exceedingly gluttonous people thought little
+      of these. They not only ate the honey-bees, but they also ate a good deal
+      of the wax.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As soon as the honey-bird descries the traveller, he immediately utters a
+      series of wild, excited cries, hops about from twig to twig, and from
+      branch to branch, then hops to another tree, incessantly repeating his
+      chirruping call. The native, understanding the nature of the little bird,
+      unhesitatingly follows him; but perhaps his steps are too slow for the
+      impatient caller, upon which he flies back, urging him louder, more
+      impatient cries, to hasten, and then darts swiftly forward, as if he would
+      show how quickly he could go to the honey-store, until at last the
+      treasure is reached, the native has applied fire to the bees' nest, and
+      secured the honey, while the little bird preens himself, and chirrups in
+      triumphant notes, as if he were informing the biped that without his aid
+      he never could have found the honey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Buffalo gnats and tsetse were very troublesome on this march, owing to the
+      numerous herds of game in the vicinity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 9th of October we made a long march in a southerly direction, and
+      formed our camp in the centre of a splendid grove of trees. The water was
+      very scarce on the road. The Wamrima and Wanyamwezi are not long able to
+      withstand thirst. When water is plentiful they slake their thirst at every
+      stream and pool; when it is scarce, as it is here and in the deserts of
+      Marenga and Magunda Mkali, long afternoon-marches are made; the men
+      previously, however, filling their gourds, so as to enable them to reach
+      the water early next morning. Selim was never able to endure thirst. It
+      mattered not how much of the precious liquid he carried, he generally
+      drank it all before reaching camp, and he consequently suffered during the
+      night. Besides this, he endangered his life by quaffing from every muddy
+      pool; and on this day he began to complain that he discharged blood, which
+      I took to be an incipient stage of dysentery.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During these marches, ever since quitting Ugunda, a favourite topic at the
+      camp-fires were the Wa-Ruga-Ruga, and their atrocities, and a possible
+      encounter that we might have with these bold rovers of the forest. I
+      verily believe that a sudden onset of half a dozen of Mirambo's people
+      would have set the whole caravan arunning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We reached Marefu the next day, after a short three hours' march. We there
+      found an embassy sent by the Arabs of Unyanyembe, to the Southern Watuta,
+      bearing presents of several bales, in charge of Hassan the Mseguhha. This
+      valiant leader and diplomatist had halted here some ten days because of
+      wars and rumours of wars in his front. It was said that Mbogo, Sultan of
+      Mboga in Ukonongo, was at war with the brother of Manwa Sera, and as Mbogo
+      was a large district of Ukonongo only two days' march from Marefu; fear of
+      being involved in it was deterring old Hassan from proceeding. He advised
+      me also not to proceed, as it was impossible to be able to do so without
+      being embroiled in the conflict. I informed him that I intended to proceed
+      on my way, and take my chances, and graciously offered him my escort as
+      far as the frontier of Ufipa, from which he could easily and safely
+      continue on his way to the Watuta, but he declined it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We had now been travelling fourteen days in a south-westerly direction,
+      having made a little more than one degree of latitude. I had intended to
+      have gone a little further south, because it was such a good road, also
+      since by going further south we should have labored under no fear of
+      meeting Mirambo; but the report of this war in our front, only two days
+      off, compelled me, in the interest of the Expedition, to strike across
+      towards the Tanganika, an a west-by-north course through the forest,
+      travelling, when it was advantageous, along elephant tracks and local
+      paths. This new plan was adopted after consulting with Asmani, the guide.
+      We were now in Ukonongo, having entered this district when we crossed the
+      Gombe creek. The next day after arriving at Marefu we plunged westward, in
+      view of the villagers, and the Arab ambassador, who kept repeating until
+      the last moment that we should "certainly catch it."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We marched eight hours through a forest, where the forest peach, or the
+      "mbembu," is abundant. The tree that bears this fruit is very like a
+      pear-tree, and is very productive. I saw one tree, upon which I estimated
+      there were at least six or seven bushels. I ate numbers of the peaches on
+      this day. So long as this fruit can be produced, a traveller in these
+      regions need not fear starvation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the base of a graceful hilly cone we found a village called Utende, the
+      inhabitants of which were in a state of great alarm, as we suddenly
+      appeared on the ridge above them. Diplomacy urged me to send forward a
+      present of one doti to the Sultan, who, however, would not accept it,
+      because he happened to be drunk with pombe, and was therefore disposed to
+      be insolent. Upon being informed that he would refuse any present, unless
+      he received four more cloths, I immediately ordered a strong boma to be
+      constructed on the summits of a little hill, near enough to a plentiful
+      supply of water, and quietly again packed up the present in the bale. I
+      occupied a strategically chosen position, as I could have swept the face
+      of the hill, and the entire space between its base and the village of
+      Watende. Watchmen were kept on the look-out all night; but we were
+      fortunately not troubled until the morning; when a delegation of the
+      principal men came to ask if I intended to depart without having made a
+      present to the chief. I replied to them that I did not intend passing
+      through any country without making friends with the chief; and if their
+      chief would accept a good cloth from me, I would freely give it to him.
+      Though they demurred at the amount of the present at first, the difference
+      between us was finally ended by my adding a fundo of red beads&mdash;sami-sami&mdash;for
+      the chief's wife.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From the hill and ridge of Utende sloped a forest for miles and miles
+      westerly, which was terminated by a grand and smooth-topped ridge rising
+      500 or 600 feet above the plain.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A four hours' march, on the 12th of October, brought us to a nullah
+      similar to the Gombe, which, during the wet season, flows to the Gombe
+      River, and thence into the Malagarazi River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little before camping we saw a herd of nimba, or pallah; I had the good
+      fortune to shoot one, which was a welcome addition to our fast diminishing
+      store of dried meats, prepared in our camp on the Gombe. By the quantity
+      of bois de vaches, we judged buffaloes were plentiful here, as well as
+      elephant and rhinoceros. The feathered species were well represented by
+      ibis, fish-eagles, pelicans, storks, cranes, several snowy spoon-bills,
+      and flamingoes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From the nullah, or mtoni, we proceeded to Mwaru, the principal village of
+      the district of Mwaru, the chief of which is Ka-mirambo. Our march lay
+      over desolated clearings once occupied by Ka-mirambo's people, but who
+      were driven away by Mkasiwa some ten years ago, during his warfare against
+      Manwa Sera. Niongo, the brother of the latter, now waging war against
+      Mbogo, had passed through Mwaru the day before we arrived, after being
+      defeated by his enemy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The hilly ridge that bounded the westward horizon, visible from Utende,
+      was surmounted on this day. The western slope trends south-west, and is
+      drained by the River Mrera, which empties into the Malagarazi River. We
+      perceived the influence of the Tanganika, even here, though we were yet
+      twelve or fifteen marches from the lake. The jungles increased in density,
+      and the grasses became enormously tall; these points reminded us of the
+      maritime districts of Ukwere and Ukami.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We heard from a caravan at this place, just come from Ufipa, that a white
+      man was reported to be in "Urua," whom I supposed to mean Livingstone.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Upon leaving Mwaru we entered the district of Mrera, a chief who once
+      possessed great power and influence over this region. Wars, however, have
+      limited his possessions to three or four villages snugly embosomed within
+      a jungle, whose outer rim is so dense that it serves like a stone wall to
+      repel invaders. There were nine bleached skulls, stuck on the top of as
+      many poles, before the principal gate of entrance, which told us of
+      existing feuds between the Wakonongo and the Wazavira. This latter tribe
+      dwelt in a country a few marches west of us; whose territory we should
+      have to avoid, unless we sought another opportunity to distinguish
+      ourselves in battle with the natives. The Wazavira, we were told by the
+      Wakonongo of Mrera, were enemies to all Wangwana.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In a narrow strip of marsh between Mwaru and Mrera, we saw a small herd of
+      wild elephants. It was the first time I had ever seen these animals in
+      their native wildness, and my first impressions of them I shall not
+      readily forget. I am induced to think that the elephant deserves the title
+      of "king of beasts." His huge form, the lordly way in which he stares at
+      an intruder on his domain, and his whole appearance indicative of
+      conscious might, afford good grounds for his claim to that title. This
+      herd, as we passed it at the distance of a mile, stopped to survey the
+      caravan as it passed: and, after having satisfied their curiosity, the
+      elephants trooped into the forest which bounded the marshy plain
+      southward, as if caravans were every-day things to them, whilst they&mdash;the
+      free and unconquerable lords of the forest and the marsh&mdash;had nothing
+      in common with the cowardly bipeds, who never found courage to face them
+      in fair combat. The destruction which a herd makes in a forest is simply
+      tremendous. When the trees are young whole swathes may be found uprooted
+      and prostrate, which mark the track of the elephants as they "trampled
+      their path through wood and brake."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The boy Selim was so ill at this place that I was compelled to halt the
+      caravan for him for two days. He seemed to be affected with a disease in
+      the limbs, which caused him to sprawl, and tremble most painfully, besides
+      suffering from an attack of acute dysentery. But constant attendance and
+      care soon brought him round again; and on the third day he was able to
+      endure the fatigue of riding.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was able to shoot several animals during our stay at Mrera. The forest
+      outside of the cultivation teems with noble animals. Zebra, giraffe,
+      elephant, and rhinoceros are most common; ptarmigan and guinea-fowl were
+      also plentiful.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The warriors of Mrera are almost all armed with muskets, of which they
+      take great care. They were very importunate in their demands for flints,
+      bullets, and powder, which I always made it a point to refuse, lest at any
+      moment a fracas occurring they might use the ammunition thus supplied to
+      my own disadvantage. The men of this village were an idle set, doing
+      little but hunting, gaping, gossiping, and playing like great boys. During
+      the interval of my stay at Mrera I employed a large portion of my time in
+      mending my shoes, and patching up the great rents in my clothes, which the
+      thorn species, during the late marches, had almost destroyed. Westward,
+      beyond Mrera, was a wilderness, the transit of which we were warned would
+      occupy nine days hence arose the necessity to purchase a large supply of
+      grain, which, ere attempting the great uninhabited void in our front, was
+      to be ground and sifted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER XI. &mdash; THROUGH UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Happy auspices,&mdash;Ant-hills.&mdash;The water-shed of the Tanganika
+     Lion.&mdash;The king of Kasera.&mdash;The home of the lion and the
+     leopard.&mdash;A donkey frightens a leopard&mdash;Sublime scenes in
+     Kawendi,&mdash;Starvation imminent.&mdash;Amenities of travel in
+     Africa.&mdash;Black-mailers.&mdash;The stormy children of Uhha.&mdash;News
+     of a white man.&mdash;Energetic marches&mdash;Mionvu, chief of
+     tribute-takers.&mdash;An escape at midnight.&mdash;Toiling through the
+     jungles.&mdash;The Lake Mountains.&mdash;First view of the Tanganika.&mdash;
+     Arrival at Ujiji,&mdash;The happy meeting with Livingstone.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      We bade farewell to Mrera on the 17th of October, to continue our route
+      north-westward. All the men and I were firm friends now; all squabbling
+      had long ceased. Bombay and I had forgotten our quarrel; the kirangozi and
+      myself were ready to embrace, so loving and affectionate were the terms
+      upon which we stood towards one another. Confidence returned to all hearts&mdash;for
+      now, as Mabruk Unyanyembe said, "we could smell the fish of the
+      Tanganika." Unyanyembe, with all its disquietude, was far behind. We could
+      snap our fingers at that terrible Mirambo and his unscrupulous followers,
+      and by-and-by, perhaps, we may be able to laugh at the timid seer who
+      always prophesied portentous events&mdash;Sheikh, the son of Nasib. We
+      laughed joyously, as we glided in Indian file through the young forest
+      jungle beyond the clearing of Mrera, and boasted of our prowess. Oh! we
+      were truly brave that morning!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Emerging from the jungle, we entered a thin forest, where numerous
+      ant-hills were seen like so many sand-dunes. I imagine that these
+      ant-hills were formed during a remarkably wet season, when, possibly, the
+      forest-clad plain was inundated. I have seen the ants at work by
+      thousands, engaged in the work of erecting their hills in other districts
+      suffering from inundation. What a wonderful system of cells these tiny
+      insects construct! A perfect labyrinth&mdash;cell within cell, room within
+      room, hall within hall&mdash;an exhibition of engineering talents and high
+      architectural capacity&mdash;a model city, cunningly contrived for safety
+      and comfort!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Emerging after a short hour's march out of the forest, we welcome the
+      sight of a murmuring translucent stream, swiftly flowing towards the
+      north-west, which we regard with the pleasure which only men who have for
+      a long time sickened themselves with that potable liquid of the foulest
+      kind, found in salinas, mbugas, pools, and puddle holes, can realize.
+      Beyond this stream rises a rugged and steep ridge, from the summit of
+      which our eyes are gladdened with scenes that are romantic, animated and
+      picturesque. They form an unusual feast to eyes sated with looking into
+      the depths of forests, at towering stems of trees, and at tufted crowns of
+      foliage. We have now before us scores of cones, dotting the surface of a
+      plain which extends across Southern Ukonongo to the territory of the
+      Wafipa, and which reaches as far as the Rikwa Plain. The immense prospect
+      before which we are suddenly ushered is most varied; exclusive of conical
+      hills and ambitious flat-topped and isolated mountains, we are in view of
+      the watersheds of the Rungwa River, which empties into the Tanganika south
+      of where we stand, and of the Malagarazi River, which the Tanganika
+      receives, a degree or so north of this position. A single but lengthy
+      latitudinal ridge serves as a dividing line to the watershed of the Rungwa
+      and Malagarazi; and a score of miles or so further west of this ridge
+      rises another, which runs north and south.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We camped on this day in the jungle, close to a narrow ravine with a
+      marshy bottom, through the oozy, miry contents of which the waters from
+      the watershed of the Rungwa slowly trickled southward towards the Rikwa
+      Plain. This was only one of many ravines, however, some of which were
+      several hundred yards broad, others were but a few yards in width, the
+      bottoms of which were most dangerous quagmires, overgrown with dense tall
+      reeds and papyrus. Over the surface of these great depths of mud were seen
+      hundreds of thin threads of slimy ochre-coloured water, which swarmed with
+      animalculae. By-and-by, a few miles south of the base of this ridge (which
+      I call Kasera, from the country which it cuts in halves), these several
+      ravines converge and debouch into the broad, [marshy?], oozy, spongy
+      "river" of Usense, which trends in a south-easterly direction; after
+      which, gathering the contents of the watercourses from the north and
+      northeast into its own broader channel, it soon becomes a stream of some
+      breadth and consequence, and meets a river flowing from the east, from the
+      direction of Urori, with which it conflows in the Rikwa Plain, and empties
+      about sixty rectilineal miles further west into the Tanganika Lake. The
+      Rungwa River, I am informed, is considered as a boundary line between the
+      country of Usowa on the north, and Ufipa on the south.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We had barely completed the construction of our camp defences when some of
+      the men were heard challenging a small party of natives which advanced
+      towards our camp, headed by a man who, from his garb and head-dress, we
+      knew was from Zanzibar. After interchanging the customary salutations, I
+      was informed that this party was an embassy from Simba ("Lion"), who ruled
+      over Kasera, in Southern Unyamwezi. Simba, I was told, was the son of
+      Mkasiwa, King of Unyanyembe, and was carrying on war with the Wazavira, of
+      whom I was warned to beware. He had heard such reports of my greatness
+      that he was sorry I did not take his road to Ukawendi, that he might have
+      had the opportunity of seeing me, and making friends with me; but in the
+      absence of a personal visit Simba had sent this embassy to overtake me, in
+      the hope that I would present him with a token of my friendship in the
+      shape of cloth. Though I was rather taken aback by the demand, still it
+      was politic in me to make this powerful chief my friend, lest on my return
+      from the search after Livingstone he and I might fall out. And since it
+      was incumbent on me to make a present, for the sake of peace, it was
+      necessary to exhibit my desire for peace by giving&mdash;if I gave at all&mdash;a
+      royal present. The ambassador conveyed from me to Simba, or the "Lion" of
+      Kasera, two gorgeous cloths, and two other doti consisting of Merikani and
+      Kaniki; and, if I might believe the ambassador, I had made Simba a friend
+      for ever.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 18th of October, breaking camp at the usual hour, we continued our
+      march north-westward by a road which zig-zagged along the base of the
+      Kasera mountains, and which took us into all kinds of difficulties. We
+      traversed at least a dozen marshy ravines, the depth of mire and water in
+      which caused the utmost anxiety. I sunk up to my neck in deep holes in the
+      Stygian ooze caused by elephants, and had to tramp through the oozy beds
+      of the Rungwa sources with any clothes wet and black with mud and slime.
+      Decency forbade that I should strip; and the hot sun would also blister my
+      body. Moreover, these morasses were too frequent to lose time in
+      undressing and dressing, and, as each man was weighted with his own proper
+      load, it would have been cruel to compel the men to bear me across.
+      Nothing remained, therefore, but to march on, all encumbered as I was with
+      my clothing and accoutrements, into these several marshy watercourses,
+      with all the philosophical stoicism that my nature could muster for such
+      emergencies. But it was very uncomfortable, to say the least of it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We soon entered the territory of the dreaded Wazavira, but no enemy was in
+      sight. Simba, in his wars, had made clean work of the northern part of
+      Uzavira, and we encountered nothing worse than a view of the desolated
+      country, which must have been once&mdash;judging from the number of burnt
+      huts and debris of ruined villages&mdash;extremely populous. A young
+      jungle was sprouting up vigorously in their fields, and was rapidly
+      becoming the home of wild denizens of the forest. In one of the deserted
+      and ruined villages, I found quarters for the Expedition, which were by no
+      means uncomfortable. I shot three brace of guinea-fowl in the
+      neighbourhood of Misonghi, the deserted village we occupied, and Ulimengo,
+      one of my hunters, bagged an antelope, called the "mbawala," for whose
+      meat some of the Wanyamwezi have a superstitious aversion. I take this
+      species of antelope, which stands about three and a half feet high, of a
+      reddish hide, head long, horns short, to be the "Nzoe" antelope discovered
+      by Speke in Uganda, and whose Latin designation is, according to Dr.
+      Sclater, "Tragelaphus Spekii." It has a short bushy tail, and long hair
+      along the spine.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A long march in a west-by-north direction, lasting six hours, through a
+      forest where the sable antelope was seen, and which was otherwise prolific
+      with game, brought us to a stream which ran by the base of a lofty conical
+      hill, on whose slopes flourished quite a forest of feathery bamboo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 20th, leaving our camp, which lay between the stream and the
+      conical hill above mentioned, and surmounting a low ridge which sloped
+      from the base of the hill-cone, we were greeted with another picturesque
+      view, of cones and scarped mountains, which heaved upward in all
+      directions. A march of nearly five hours through this picturesque country
+      brought us to the Mpokwa River, one of the tributaries of the Rungwa, and
+      to a village lately deserted by the Wazavira. The huts were almost all
+      intact, precisely as they were left by their former inhabitants. In the
+      gardens were yet found vegetables, which, after living so long on meat,
+      were most grateful to us. On the branches of trees still rested the Lares
+      and Penates of the Wazavira, in the shape of large and exceedingly
+      well-made earthen pots.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the neighbouring river one of my men succeeded, in few minutes, in
+      catching sixty fish of the silurus species the hand alone. A number of
+      birds hovered about stream, such as the white-headed fish-eagle and the
+      kingfisher, enormous, snowy spoonbills, ibis, martins, &amp;c. This river
+      issued from a mountain clump eight miles or so north of the village of
+      Mpokwa, and comes flowing down a narrow thread of water, sinuously winding
+      amongst tall reeds and dense brakes on either side-the home of hundreds of
+      antelopes and buffaloes. South of Mpokwa, the valley broadens, and the
+      mountains deflect eastward and westward, and beyond this point commences
+      the plain known as the Rikwa, which, during the Masika is inundated, but
+      which, in the dry season, presents the same bleached aspect that plains in
+      Africa generally do when the grass has ripened.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Travelling up along the right bank of the Mpokwa, on the 21st we came to
+      the head of the stream, and the sources of the Mpokwa, issuing out of deep
+      defiles enclosed by lofty ranges. The mbawala and the buffalo were
+      plentiful.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 22nd, after a march of four hours and a half, we came to the
+      beautiful stream of Mtambu&mdash;the water of which was sweet, and clear
+      as crystal, and flowed northward. We saw for the first time the home of
+      the lion and the leopard. Hear what Freiligrath says of the place:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Where the thorny brake and thicket
+     Densely fill the interspace
+     Of the trees, through whose thick branches
+     Never sunshine lights the place,
+     There the lion dwells, a monarch,
+     Mightiest among the brutes;
+     There his right to reign supremest
+     Never one his claim disputes.
+     There he layeth down to slumber,
+     Having slain and ta'en his fill;
+     There he roameth, there be croucheth,
+     As it suits his lordly will.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      We camped but a few yards from just such a place as the poet describes.
+      The herd-keeper who attended the goats and donkeys, soon after our arrival
+      in camp, drove the animals to water, and in order to obtain it they
+      travelled through a tunnel in the brake, caused by elephants and
+      rhinoceros. They had barely entered the dark cavernous passage, when a
+      black-spotted leopard sprang, and fastened its fangs in the neck of one of
+      the donkeys, causing it, from the pain, to bray hideously. Its companions
+      set up such a frightful chorus, and so lashed their heels in the air at
+      the feline marauder, that the leopard bounded away through the brake, as
+      if in sheer dismay at the noisy cries which the attack had provoked. The
+      donkey's neck exhibited some frightful wounds, but the animal was not
+      dangerously hurt.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Thinking that possibly I might meet with an adventure with a lion or a
+      leopard in that dark belt of tall trees, under whose impenetrable shade
+      grew the dense thicket that formed such admirable coverts for the
+      carnivorous species, I took a stroll along the awesome place with the
+      gunbearer, Kalulu, carrying an extra gun, and a further supply of
+      ammunition. We crept cautiously along, looking keenly into the deep dark
+      dens, the entrances of which were revealed to us, as we journeyed,
+      expectant every moment to behold the reputed monarch of the brake and
+      thicket, bound forward to meet us, and I took a special delight in
+      picturing, in my imagination, the splendor and majesty of the wrathful
+      brute, as he might stand before me. I peered closely into every dark
+      opening, hoping to see the deadly glitter of the great angry eyes, and the
+      glowering menacing front of the lion as he would regard me. But, alas!
+      after an hour's search for adventure, I had encountered nothing, and I
+      accordingly waxed courageous, and crept into one of these leafy, thorny
+      caverns, and found myself shortly standing under a canopy of foliage that
+      was held above my head fully a hundred feet by the shapely and towering
+      stems of the royal mvule. Who can imagine the position? A smooth lawn-like
+      glade; a dense and awful growth of impenetrable jungle around us; those
+      stately natural pillars&mdash;a glorious phalanx of royal trees, bearing
+      at such sublime heights vivid green masses of foliage, through which no
+      single sun-ray penetrated, while at our feet babbled the primeval brook,
+      over smooth pebbles, in soft tones befitting the sacred quiet of the
+      scene! Who could have desecrated this solemn, holy harmony of nature? But
+      just as I was thinking it impossible that any man could be tempted to
+      disturb the serene solitude of the place, I saw a monkey perched high on a
+      branch over my head, contemplating, with something of an awe-struck look,
+      the strange intruders beneath. Well, I could not help it, I laughed&mdash;laughed
+      loud and long, until I was hushed by the chaos of cries and strange noises
+      which seemed to respond to my laughing. A troop of monkeys, hidden in the
+      leafy depths above, had been rudely awakened, and, startled by the noise I
+      made, were hurrying away from the scene with a dreadful clamor of cries
+      and shrieks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Emerging again into the broad sunlight, I strolled further in search of
+      something to shoot. Presently, I saw, feeding quietly in the forest which
+      bounded the valley of the Mtambu on the left, a huge, reddish-coloured
+      wild boar, armed with most horrid tusks. Leaving Kalulu crouched down
+      behind a tree, and my solar helmet behind another close by&mdash;that I
+      might more safely stalk the animal&mdash;I advanced towards him some forty
+      yards, and after taking a deliberate aim, fired at his fore shoulder. As
+      if nothing had hurt him whatever, the animal made a furious bound, and
+      then stood with his bristles erected, and tufted tail, curved over the
+      back&mdash;a most formidable brute in appearance. While he was thus
+      listening, and searching the neighbourhood with his keen, small eyes, I
+      planted another shot in his chest, which ploughed its way through his
+      body. Instead of falling, however, as I expected he would, he charged
+      furiously in the direction the bullet had come, and as he rushed past me,
+      another ball was fired, which went right through him; but still he kept
+      on, until, within six or seven yards from the trees behind which Kalulu
+      was crouching down on one side, and the helmet was resting behind another,
+      he suddenly halted, and then dropped. But as I was about to advance on him
+      with my knife to cut his throat, he suddenly started up; his eyes had
+      caught sight of the little boy Kalulu, and were then, almost immediately
+      afterwards, attracted by the sight of the snowy helmet. These strange
+      objects on either side of him proved too much for the boar, for, with a
+      terrific grunt, he darted on one side into a thick brake, from which it
+      was impossible to oust him, and as it was now getting late, and the camp
+      was about three miles away, I was reluctantly obliged to return without
+      the meat.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On our way to camp we were accompanied by a large animal which
+      persistently followed us on our left. It was too dark to see plainly, but
+      a large form was visible, if not very clearly defined. It must have been a
+      lion, unless it was the ghost of the dead boar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      That night, about 11 P.M., we were startled by the roar of a lion, in
+      close proximity to the camp. Soon it was joined by another, and another
+      still, and the novelty of the thing kept me awake. I peered through the
+      gate of the camp, and endeavoured to sight a rifle&mdash;my little
+      Winchester, in the accuracy of which I had perfect confidence; but, alas!
+      for the cartridges, they might have been as well filled with sawdust for
+      all the benefit I derived from them. Disgusted with the miserable
+      ammunition, I left the lions alone, and turned in, with their roaring as a
+      lullaby.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      That terrestrial paradise for the hunter, the valley of the pellucid
+      Mtambu, was deserted by us the next morning for the settlement commonly
+      known to the Wakawendi as Imrera's, with as much unconcern as though it
+      were a howling desert. The village near which we encamped was called
+      Itaga, in the district of Rusawa. As soon as we had crossed the River
+      Mtambu we had entered Ukawendi, commonly called "Kawendi" by the natives
+      of the country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The district of Rusawa is thickly populated. The people are quiet and
+      well-disposed to strangers, though few ever come to this region from afar.
+      One or two Wasawahili traders visit it every year or so from Pumburu and
+      Usowa; but very little ivory being obtained from the people, the long
+      distance between the settlements serves to deter the regular trader from
+      venturing hither.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If caravans arrive here, the objective point to them is the district of
+      Pumburu, situated south-westerly one day's good marching, or, say, thirty
+      statute miles from Imrera; or they make for Usowa, on the Tanganika, via
+      Pumburu, Katuma, Uyombeh, and Ugarawah. Usowa is quite an important
+      district on the Tanganika, populous and flourishing. This was the road we
+      had intended to adopt after leaving Imrera, but the reports received at
+      the latter place forbade such a venture. For Mapunda, the Sultan of Usowa,
+      though a great friend to Arab traders, was at war with the colony of the
+      Wazavira, who we must remember were driven from Mpokwa and vicinity in
+      Utanda, and who were said to have settled between Pumburu and Usowa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It remained for us, like wise, prudent men, having charge of a large and
+      valuable Expedition on our hands, to decide what to do, and what route to
+      adopt, now that we had approached much nearer to Ujiji than we were to
+      Unyanyembe. I suggested that we should make direct for the Tanganika by
+      compass, trusting to no road or guide, but to march direct west until we
+      came to the Tanganika, and then follow the lake shore on foot until we
+      came to Ujiji. For it ever haunted my mind, that, if Dr. Livingstone
+      should hear of my coming, which he might possibly do if I travelled along
+      any known road, he would leave, and that my search for him would
+      consequently be a "stern chase." But my principal men thought it better
+      that we should now boldly turn our faces north, and march for the
+      Malagarazi, which was said to be a large river flowing from the east to
+      the Tanganika. But none of my men knew the road to the Malagarazi, neither
+      could guides be hired from Sultan Imrera. We were, however, informed that
+      the Malagarazi was but two days' march from Imrera. I thought it safe, in
+      such a case, to provision my men with three days' rations. The village of
+      Itaga is situated in a deep mountain hollow, finely overlooking a large
+      extent of cultivation. The people grow sweet potatoes, manioc&mdash;out of
+      which tapioca is made&mdash;beans, and the holcus. Not one chicken could
+      be purchased for love or money, and, besides grain, only a lean, scraggy
+      specimen of a goat, a long time ago imported form Uvinza, was procurable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      October the 25th will be remembered by me as a day of great troubles; in
+      fact, a series of troubles began from this date. We struck an easterly
+      road in order to obtain a passage to the lofty plateau which bounded the
+      valley of Imrera on the west and on the north. We camped, after a two and
+      a half hours' march, at its foot. The defile promised a feasible means of
+      ascent to the summit of the plateau, which rose upward in a series of
+      scarps a thousand feet above the valley of Imrera.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While ascending that lofty arc of mountains which bounded westerly and
+      northerly the basin of Imrera, extensive prospects southward and eastward
+      were revealed. The character of the scenery at Ukawendi is always animated
+      and picturesque, but never sublime. The folds of this ridge contained
+      several ruins of bomas, which seemed to have been erected during war time.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The mbemba fruit was plentiful along this march, and every few minutes I
+      could see from the rear one or two men hastening to secure a treasure of
+      it which they discovered on the ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little before reaching the camp I had a shot at a leopard, but failed to
+      bring him down as he bounded away. At night the lions roared as at the
+      Mtambu River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A lengthy march under the deep twilight shadows of a great forest, which
+      protected us from the hot sunbeams, brought us, on the next day, to a camp
+      newly constructed by a party of Arabs from Ujiji, who had advanced thus
+      far on their road to Unyanyembe, but, alarmed at the reports of the war
+      between Mirambo and the Arabs, had returned. Our route was along the right
+      bank of the Rugufu, a broad sluggish stream, well choked with the matete
+      reeds and the papyrus. The tracks and the bois de vaches of buffaloes were
+      numerous, and there were several indications of rhinoceros being near. In
+      a deep clump of timber near this river we discovered a colony of bearded
+      and leonine-looking monkeys.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As we were about leaving our camp on the morning of the 28th a herd of
+      buffalo walked deliberately into view. Silence was quickly restored, but
+      not before the animals, to their great surprise, had discovered the danger
+      which confronted them. We commenced stalking them, but we soon heard the
+      thundering sound of their gallop, after which it becomes a useless task to
+      follow them, with a long march in a wilderness before one.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The road led on this day over immense sheets of sandstone and iron ore.
+      The water was abominable, and scarce, and famine began to stare us in the
+      face. We travelled for six hours, and had yet seen no sign of cultivation
+      anywhere. According to my map we were yet two long marches from the
+      Malagarazi&mdash;if Captain Burton had correctly laid down the position of
+      the river; according to the natives' account, we should have arrived at
+      the Malagarazi on this day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 29th we left our camp, and after a few minutes, we were in view of
+      the sublimest, but ruggedest, scenes we had yet beheld in Africa. The
+      country was cut up in all directions by deep, wild, and narrow ravines
+      trending in all directions, but generally toward the north-west, while on
+      either side rose enormous square masses of naked rock (sandstone),
+      sometimes towering, and rounded, sometimes pyramidal, sometimes in
+      truncated cones, sometimes in circular ridges, with sharp, rugged, naked
+      backs, with but little vegetation anywhere visible, except it obtained a
+      precarious tenure in the fissured crown of some gigantic hill-top, whither
+      some soil had fallen, or at the base of the reddish ochre scarps which
+      everywhere lifted their fronts to our view.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A long series of descents down rocky gullies, wherein we were environed by
+      threatening masses of disintegrated rock, brought us to a dry, stony
+      ravine, with mountain heights looming above us a thousand feet high. This
+      ravine we followed, winding around in all directions, but which gradually
+      widened, however, into a broad plain, with a western trend. The road,
+      leaving this, struck across a low ridge to the north; and we were in view
+      of deserted settlements where the villages were built on frowning
+      castellated masses of rock. Near an upright mass of rock over seventy feet
+      high, and about fifty yards in diameter, which dwarfed the gigantic
+      sycamore close to it, we made our camp, after five hours and thirty
+      minutes' continuous and rapid marching.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The people were very hungry; they had eaten every scrap of meat, and every
+      grain they possessed, twenty hours before, and there was no immediate
+      prospect of food. I had but a pound and a half of flour left, and this
+      would not have sufficed to begin to feed a force of over forty-five
+      people; but I had something like thirty pounds of tea, and twenty pounds
+      of sugar left, and I at once, as soon as we arrived at camp, ordered every
+      kettle to be filled and placed on the fire, and then made tea for all;
+      giving each man a quart of a hot, grateful beverage; well sweetened.
+      Parties stole out also into the depths: of the jungle to search for wild
+      fruit, and soon returned laden with baskets of the wood-peach and tamarind
+      fruit, which though it did not satisfy, relieved them. That night, before
+      going to sleep, the Wangwana set up a loud prayer to "Allah" to give them
+      food.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We rose betimes in the morning, determined to travel on until food could
+      be procured, or we dropped down from sheer fatigue and weakness.
+      Rhinoceros' tracks abounded, and buffalo seemed to be plentiful, but we
+      never beheld a living thing. We crossed scores of short steeps, and
+      descended as often into the depths of dry, stony gullies, and then finally
+      entered a valley, bounded on one side by a triangular mountain with
+      perpendicular sides, and on the other by a bold group, a triplet of hills.
+      While marching down this valley&mdash;which soon changed its dry, bleached
+      aspect to a vivid green&mdash;we saw a forest in the distance, and shortly
+      found ourselves in corn-fields. Looking keenly around for a village, we
+      descried it on the summit of the lofty triangular hill on our right. A
+      loud exultant shout was raised at the discovery. The men threw down their
+      packs, and began to clamour for food. Volunteers were asked to come
+      forward to take cloth, and scale the heights to obtain it from the
+      village, at any price. While three or four sallied off we rested on the
+      ground, quite worn out. In about an hour the foraging party returned with
+      the glorious tidings that food was plentiful; that the village we saw was
+      called, "Welled Nzogera's"&mdash;the son of Nzogera&mdash;by which, of
+      course, we knew that we were in Uvinza, Nzogera being the principal chief
+      in Uvinza. We were further informed that Nzogera, the father, was at war
+      with Lokanda-Mire, about some salt-pans in the valley of the Malagarazi,
+      and that it would be difficult to go to Ujiji by the usual road, owing to
+      this war; but, for a consideration, the son of Nzogera was willing to
+      supply us with guides, who would take us safely, by a northern road, to
+      Ujiji.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Everything auguring well for our prospects, we encamped to enjoy the good
+      cheer, for which our troubles and privations, during the transit of the
+      Ukawendi forests and jungles, had well prepared us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I am now going to extract from my Diary of the march, as, without its aid,
+      I deem it impossible to relate fully our various experiences, so as to
+      show them properly as they occurred to us; and as these extracts were
+      written and recorded at the close of each day, they possess more interest,
+      in my opinion, than a cold relation of facts, now toned down in memory.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      October 31st. Tuesday.&mdash;Our road led E.N.E. for a considerable time
+      after leaving the base of the triangular mountain whereon the son of
+      Nzogera has established his stronghold, in order to avoid a deep and
+      impassable portion of marsh, that stood between us and the direct route to
+      the Malagarazi River. The valley sloped rapidly to this marsh, which
+      received in its broad bosom the drainage of three extensive ranges. Soon
+      we turned our faces northwest, and prepared to cross the marsh; and the
+      guides informed us, as we halted on its eastern bank, of a terrible
+      catastrophe which occurred a few yards above where we were preparing to
+      cross. They told of an Arab and his caravan, consisting of thirty-five
+      slaves, who had suddenly sunk out of sight, and who were never more heard
+      of. This marsh, as it appeared to us, presented a breadth of some hundreds
+      of yards, on which grew a close network of grass, with much decayed matter
+      mixed up with it. In the centre of this, and underneath it, ran a broad,
+      deep, and rapid stream. As the guides proceeded across, the men stole
+      after them with cautious footsteps. As they arrived near the centre we
+      began to see this unstable grassy bridge, so curiously provided by nature
+      for us, move up and down in heavy languid undulations, like the swell of
+      the sea after a storm. Where the two asses of the Expedition moved, the
+      grassy waves rose a foot high; but suddenly one unfortunate animal plunged
+      his feet through, and as he was unable to rise, he soon made a deep
+      hollow, which was rapidly filling with water. With the aid of ten men,
+      however, we were enabled to lift him bodily up and land him on a firmer
+      part, and guiding them both across rapidly, the entire caravan crossed
+      without accident.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On arriving at the other side, we struck off to the north, and found
+      ourselves in a delightful country, in every way suitable for
+      agriculturists. Great rocks rose here and there, but in their fissures
+      rose stately trees, under whose umbrage nestled the villages of the
+      people. We found the various village elders greedy for cloth, but the
+      presence of the younger son of Nzogera's men restrained their propensity
+      for extortion. Goats and sheep were remarkably cheap, and in good
+      condition; and, consequently, to celebrate our arrival near the
+      Malagarazi, a flock of eight goats was slaughtered, and distributed to the
+      men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      November 1st.&mdash;Striking north-west, after leaving our camp, and
+      descending the slope of a mountain, we soon beheld the anxiously
+      looked-for Malagarazi, a narrow but deep stream, flowing through a valley
+      pent in by lofty mountains. Fish-eating birds lined the trees on its
+      banks; villages were thickly scattered about. Food was abundant and cheap.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After travelling along the left bank of the river a few miles, we arrived
+      at the settlements recognizing Kiala as their ruler. I had anticipated we
+      should be able at once to cross the river, but difficulties arose. We were
+      told to camp, before any negotiations could be entered into. When we
+      demurred, we were informed we might cross the river if we wished, but we
+      should not be assisted by any Mvinza.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Being compelled to halt for this day, the tent was pitched in the middle
+      of one of the villages, and the bales were stored in one of the huts, with
+      four soldiers to guard them. After despatching an embassy to Kiala, eldest
+      son of the great chief Nzogera, to request permission to cross the river
+      as a peaceable caravan, Kiala sent word that the white man should cross
+      his river after the payment of fifty-six cloths! Fifty-six cloths
+      signified a bale nearly!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here was another opportunity for diplomacy. Bombay and Asmani were
+      empowered to treat with Kiala about the honga, but it was not to exceed
+      twenty-five doti. At 6 A.M., having spoken for seven hours, the two men
+      returned, with the demand for thirteen doti for Nzogera, and ten doti for
+      Kiala. Poor Bombay was hoarse, but Asmani still smiled; and I relented,
+      congratulating myself that the preposterous demand, which was simply
+      robbery, was no worse.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Three hours later another demand was made. Kiala had been visited by a
+      couple of chiefs from his father; and the chiefs being told that a white
+      man was at the ferry, put in a claim for a couple of guns and a keg of
+      gunpowder. But here my patience was exhausted, and I declared that they
+      should have to take them by force, for I would never consent to be robbed
+      and despoiled after any such fashion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Until 11 P.M., Bombay and Asmani were negotiating about this extra demand,
+      arguing, quarreling, threatening, until Bombay declared they would talk
+      him mad if it lasted much longer. I told Bombay to take two cloths, one
+      for each chief, and, if they did not consider it enough, then I should
+      fight. The present was taken, and the negotiations were terminated at
+      midnight.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      November 2nd.&mdash;Ihata Island, one and a half hour west of Kiala's. We
+      arrived before the Island of Ihata, on the left bank of the Malagarazi, at
+      5 p.m.; the morning having been wasted in puerile talk with the owner of
+      the canoes at the ferry. The final demand for ferriage across was eight
+      yards of cloth and four fundo* of sami-sami, or red beads; which was at
+      once paid. Four men, with their loads, were permitted to cross in the
+      small, unshapely, and cranky canoes. When the boatmen had discharged their
+      canoes of their passengers and cargoes, they were ordered to halt on the
+      other side, and, to my astonishment, another demand was made. The ferrymen
+      had found that two fundo of these were of short measure, and two fundo
+      more must be paid, otherwise the contract for ferrying us across would be
+      considered null and void. So two fundo more were added, but not without
+      demur and much "talk," which in these lands is necessary.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      ** 4 fundo == 40 necklaces; 1 fundo being 10 necklaces.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Three times the canoes went backwards and forwards, when, lo! another
+      demand was made, with the usual clamour and fierce wordy dispute; this
+      time for five khete # for the man who guided us to the ferry, a shukka of
+      cloth for a babbler, who had attached himself to the old-womanish Jumah,
+      who did nothing but babble and increase the clamor. These demands were
+      also settled.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      # Necklaces.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About sunset we endeavoured to cross the donkeys. "Simba," a fine wild
+      Kinyamwezi donkey, went in first, with a rope attached to his neck. He had
+      arrived at the middle of the stream when we saw him begin to struggle&mdash;a
+      crocodile had seized him by the throat. The poor animal's struggles were
+      terrific. Chowpereh was dragging on the rope with all his might, but to no
+      use, for the donkey sank, and we saw no more of him. The depth of the
+      river at this place was about fifteen feet. We had seen the light-brown
+      heads, the glittering eyes, and the ridgy backs, hovering about the
+      vicinity, but we had never thought that the reptiles would advance so near
+      such an exciting scene as the vicinity of the ferry presented during the
+      crossing. Saddened a little by this loss, we resumed our work, and by 7
+      P.M. we were all across, excepting Bombay and the only donkey now left,
+      which was to be brought across in the morning, when the crocodiles should
+      have deserted the river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      November 3rd.&mdash;What contention have we not been a witness to these
+      last three days! What anxiety have we not suffered ever since our arrival
+      in Uvinza! The Wavinza are worse than the Wagogo, and their greed is more
+      insatiable. We got the donkey across with the aid of a mganga, or medicine
+      man, who spat some chewed leaves of a tree which grows close to the stream
+      over him. He informed me he could cross the river at any time, day or
+      night, after rubbing his body with these chewed leaves, which he believed
+      to be a most potent medicine.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About 10 A.M. appeared from the direction of Ujiji a caravan of eighty
+      Waguhha, a tribe which occupies a tract of country on the south-western
+      side of the Lake Tanganika. We asked the news, and were told a white man
+      had just arrived at Ujiji from Manyuema. This news startled us all.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "A white man?" we asked.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes, a white man," they replied.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How is he dressed?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Like the master," they answered, referring to me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Is he young, or old?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "He is old. He has white hair on his face, and is sick."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Where has he come from?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "From a very far country away beyond Uguhha, called Manyuema."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Indeed! and is he stopping at Ujiji now?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes, we saw him about eight days ago."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Do you think he will stop there until we see him?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Sigue" (don't know).
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Was he ever at Ujiji before?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes, he went away a long time ago."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hurrah! This is Livingstone! He must be Livingstone! He can be no other;
+      but still;&mdash;he may be some one else&mdash;some one from the West
+      Coast&mdash;or perhaps he is Baker! No; Baker has no white hair on his
+      face. But we must now march quick, lest he hears we are coming, and runs
+      away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I addressed my men, and asked them if they were willing to march to Ujiji
+      without a single halt, and then promised them, if they acceded to my
+      wishes, two doti each man. All answered in the affirmative, almost as much
+      rejoiced as I was myself. But I was madly rejoiced; intensely eager to
+      resolve the burning question, "Is it Dr. David Livingstone?" God grant me
+      patience, but I do wish there was a railroad, or, at least, horses in this
+      country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We set out at once from the banks of the Malagarazi, accompanied by two
+      guides furnished us by Usenge, the old man of the ferry, who, now that we
+      had crossed, showed himself more amiably disposed to us. We arrived at the
+      village of Isinga, Sultan Katalambula, after a little over an hour's march
+      across a saline plain, but which as we advanced into the interior became
+      fertile and productive.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      November 4th.&mdash;Started early with great caution, maintaining deep
+      silence. The guides were sent forward, one two hundred yards ahead of the
+      other, that we might be warned in time. The first part of the march was
+      through a thin jungle of dwarf trees, which got thinner and thinner until
+      finally it vanished altogether, and we had entered Uhha&mdash;a plain
+      country. Villages were visible by the score among the tall bleached stalks
+      of dourra and maize. Sometimes three, sometimes five, ten, or twenty
+      beehive-shaped huts formed a village. The Wahha were evidently living in
+      perfect security, for not one village amongst them all was surrounded with
+      the customary defence of an African village. A narrow dry ditch formed the
+      only boundary between Uhha and Uvinza. On entering Uhha, all danger from
+      Makumbi vanished.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We halted at Kawanga, the chief of which lost no time in making us
+      understand that he was the great Mutware of Kimenyi under the king, and
+      that he was the tribute gatherer for his Kiha majesty. He declared that he
+      was the only one in Kimenyi&mdash;an eastern division of Uhha&mdash;who
+      could demand tribute; and that it would be very satisfactory to him, and a
+      saving of trouble to ourselves, if we settled his claim of twelve doti of
+      good cloths at once. We did not think it the best way of proceeding,
+      knowing as we did the character of the native African; so we at once
+      proceeded to diminish this demand; but, after six hours' hot argument, the
+      Mutware only reduced it by two. This claim was then settled, upon the
+      understanding that we should be allowed to travel through Uhha as far as
+      the Rusugi River without being further mulcted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      November 5th.&mdash;Leaving Kawanga early in the morning and continuing
+      our march over the boundless plains, which were bleached white by the hot
+      equatorial sun, we were marching westward full of pleasant anticipations
+      that we were nearing the end of our troubles, joyfully congratulating
+      ourselves that within five days we should see that which I had come so far
+      from civilisation, and through so many difficulties, to see, and were
+      about passing a cluster of villages, with all the confidence which men
+      possess against whom no one had further claim or a word to say, when I
+      noticed two men darting from a group of natives who were watching us, and
+      running towards the head of the Expedition, with the object, evidently, of
+      preventing further progress.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The caravan stopped, and I walked forward to ascertain the cause from the
+      two natives. I was greeted politely by the two Wahha with the usual
+      "Yambos," and was then asked, "Why does the white man pass by the village
+      of the King of Uhha without salutation and a gift? Does not the white man
+      know there lives a king in Uhha, to whom the Wangwana and Arabs pay
+      something for right of passage?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Why, we paid last night to the chief of Kawanga, who informed us that he
+      was the man deputed by the King of Uhha to collect the toll."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How much did you pay?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Ten doti of good cloth."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Are you sure?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Quite sure. If you ask him, he will tell you so."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well," said one of the Wahha, a fine, handsome, intelligent-looking
+      youth, "it is our duty to the king to halt you here until we find out the
+      truth of this. Will you walk to our village, and rest yourselves under the
+      shade of our trees until we can send messengers to Kawanga?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "No; the sun is but an hour high, and we have far to travel; but, in order
+      to show you we do not seek to pass through your country without doing that
+      which is right, we will rest where we now stand, and we will send with
+      your messengers two of our soldiers, who will show you the man to whom we
+      paid the cloth."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The messengers departed; but, in the meantime, the handsome youth, who
+      turned out to be the nephew of the King, whispered some order to a lad,
+      who immediately hastened away, with the speed of an antelope, to the
+      cluster of villages which we had just passed. The result of this errand,
+      as we saw in a short time, was the approach of a body of warriors, about
+      fifty in number, headed by a tall, fine-looking man, who was dressed in a
+      crimson robe called Joho, two ends of which were tied in a knot over the
+      left shoulder; a new piece of American sheeting was folded like a turban
+      around his head, and a large curved piece of polished ivory was suspended
+      to his neck. He and his people were all armed with spears, and bows and
+      arrows, and their advance was marked with a deliberation that showed they
+      felt confidence in any issue that might transpire.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were halted on the eastern side of the Pombwe stream, near the village
+      of Lukomo, in Kimenyi, Uhha. The gorgeously-dressed chief was a remarkable
+      man in appearance. His face was oval in form, high cheek-bones, eyes
+      deeply sunk, a prominent and bold forehead, a fine nose, and a well-cut
+      mouth; he was tall in figure, and perfectly symmetrical.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When near to us, he hailed me with the words,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yambo, bana?&mdash;How do you do, master?" in quite a cordial tone.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I replied cordially also, "Yambo, mutware?&mdash;How do you do, chief?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We, myself and men, interchanged "Yambos" with his warriors; and there was
+      nothing in our first introduction to indicate that the meeting was of a
+      hostile character.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The chief seated himself, his haunches resting on his heels, laying down
+      his bow and arrows by his side; his men did likewise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I seated myself on a bale, and each of my men sat down on their loads,
+      forming quite a semicircle. The Wahha slightly outnumbered my party; but,
+      while they were only armed with bows and arrows, spears, and knob-sticks,
+      we were armed with rifles, muskets, revolvers, pistols, and hatchets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All were seated, and deep silence was maintained by the assembly. The
+      great plains around us were as still in this bright noon as if they were
+      deserted of all living creatures. Then the chief spoke:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I am Mionvu, the great Mutware of Kimenyi, and am next to the King, who
+      lives yonder," pointing to a large village near some naked hills about ten
+      miles to the north. "I have come to talk with the white man. It has always
+      been the custom of the Arabs and the Wangwana to make a present to the
+      King when they pass through his country. Does not the white man mean to
+      pay the King's dues? Why does the white man halt in the road? Why will he
+      not enter the village of Lukomo, where there is food and shade&mdash;where
+      we can discuss this thing quietly? Does the white man mean to fight? I
+      know well he is stronger than we are. His men have guns, and the Wahha
+      have but bows and arrows, and spears; but Uhha is large, and our villages
+      are many. Let him look about him everywhere&mdash;all is Uhha, and our
+      country extends much further than he can see or walk in a day. The King of
+      Uhha is strong; yet he wishes friendship only with the white man. Will the
+      white man have war or peace?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A deep murmur of assent followed this speech of Mionvu from his people,
+      and disapprobation, blended with a certain uneasiness; from my men. When
+      about replying, the words of General Sherman, which I heard him utter to
+      the chiefs of the Arapahoes and Cheyennes at North Platte, in 1867, came
+      to my mind; and something of their spirit I embodied in my reply to
+      Mionvu, Mutware of Kimenyi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Mionvu, the great Mutware, asks me if I have come for war. When did
+      Mionvu ever hear of white men warring against black men? Mionvu must
+      understand that the white men are different from the black. White men do
+      not leave their country to fight the black people, neither do they come
+      here to buy ivory or slaves. They come to make friends with black people;
+      they come to search for rivers; and lakes, and mountains; they come to
+      discover what countries, what peoples, what rivers, what lakes, what
+      forests, what plains, what mountains and hills are in your country; to
+      know the different animals that are in the land of the black people, that,
+      when they go back, they may tell the white kings, and men, and children,
+      what they have seen and heard in the land so far from them. The white
+      people are different from the Arabs and Wangwana; the white people know
+      everything, and are very strong. When they fight, the Arabs and the
+      Wangwana run away. We have great guns which thunder, and when they shoot
+      the earth trembles; we have guns which carry bullets further than you can
+      see: even with these little things" (pointing to my revolvers) "I could
+      kill ten men quicker than you could count. We are stronger than the Wahha.
+      Mionvu has spoken the truth, yet we do not wish to fight. I could kill
+      Mionvu now, yet I talk to him as to a friend. I wish to be a friend to
+      Mionvu, and to all black people. Will Mionvu say what I can do for him?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As these words were translated to him&mdash;imperfectly, I suppose, but
+      still, intelligibly&mdash;the face of the Wahha showed how well they
+      appreciated them. Once or twice I thought I detected something like fear,
+      but my assertions that I desired peace and friendship with them soon
+      obliterated all such feelings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mionvu replied:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "The white man tells me he is friendly. Why does he not come to our
+      village? Why does he stop on the road? The sun is hot. Mionvu will not
+      speak here any more. If the white man is a friend he will come to the
+      village."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "We must stop now. It is noon. You have broken our march. We will go and
+      camp in your village," I said, at the same time rising and pointing to the
+      men to take up their loads.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were compelled to camp; there was no help for it; the messengers had
+      not returned from Kawanga. Having arrived in his village, Mionvu had cast
+      himself at full length under the scanty shade afforded by a few trees
+      within the boma. About 2 P.M. the messengers returned, saying it was true
+      the chief of Kawanga had taken ten cloths; not, however for the King of
+      Uhha, but for himself!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mionvu, who evidently was keen-witted, and knew perfectly what he was
+      about, now roused himself, and began to make miniature faggots of thin
+      canes, ten in each faggot, and shortly he presented ten of these small
+      bundles, which together contained one hundred, to me, saying each stick
+      represented a cloth, and the amount of the "honga" required by the King of
+      Uhha was ONE HUNDRED CLOTHS!&mdash;nearly two bales!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Recovering from our astonishment, which was almost indescribable, we
+      offered TEN.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Ten! to the King of Uhha! Impossible. You do not stir from Lukomo until
+      you pay us one hundred!" exclaimed Mionvu, in a significant manner.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I returned no answer, but went to my hut, which Mionvu had cleared for my
+      use, and Bombay, Asmani, Mabruki, and Chowpereh were invited&mdash;to come
+      to me for consultation. Upon my asking them if we could not fight our way
+      through Uhha, they became terror-stricken, and Bombay, in imploring
+      accents, asked me to think well what I was about to do, because it was
+      useless to enter on a war with the Wahha. "Uhha is all a plain country; we
+      cannot hide anywhere. Every village will rise all about us, and how can
+      forty-five men fight thousands of people? They would kill us all in a few
+      minutes, and how would you ever reach Ujiji if you died? Think of it, my
+      dear master, and do not throw your life away for a few rags of cloth."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, but, Bombay, this is robbery. Shall we submit to be robbed? Shall
+      we give this fellow everything he asks? He might as well ask me for all
+      the cloth, and all my guns, without letting him see that we can fight. I
+      can kill Mionvu and his principal men myself, and you can slay all those
+      howlers out there without much trouble. If Mionvu and his principal were
+      dead we should not be troubled much, and we could strike south to the
+      Mala-garazi, and go west to Ujiji."
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ "No, no, dear master, don't think of it for a moment.  If we went
+ neat the Malagarazi we should come across Lokanda-Mira."
+
+ "Well, then, we will go north."
+
+ "Up that way Uhha extends far; and beyond Uhha are the Watuta."
+
+ "Well, then, say what we shall do.  We must do something; but we
+ must not be robbed."
+
+ "Pay Mionvu what he asks, and let us go away from here.  This is
+ the last place we shall have to pay.  And in four days we shall be
+ in Ujiji."
+
+ "Did Mionvu tell you that this is the last time we would have to
+ pay?"
+
+ "He did, indeed."
+
+ "What do you say, Asmani?  Shall we fight or pay?"  Asmani's
+ face wore the usual smile, but he replied,
+
+ "I am afraid we must pay.  This is positively the last time."
+
+ "And you, Chowpereh?"
+
+ "Pay, bana; it is better to get along quietly in this country.
+ If we were strong enough they would pay us.  Ah, if we had only
+ two hundred guns, how these Wahha would run!"
+
+ "What do you say, Mabruki?"
+
+ "Ah, master, dear master; it is very hard, and these people are
+ great robbers.  I would like to chop their heads off, all; so I
+ would.  But you had better pay.  This is the last time; and what
+ are one hundred cloths to you?"
+
+ "Well, then, Bombay and Asmani, go to Mionvu, and offer him twenty.
+ If he will not take twenty, give him thirty.  If he refuses thirty,
+ give him forty; then go up to eighty, slowly.  Make plenty of talk;
+ not one doti more.  I swear to you I will shoot Mionvu if he demands
+ more than eighty.  Go, and remember to be wise."
+
+ I will cut the matter short.  At 9 P.M. sixty-four doti were
+ handed over to Mionvu, for the King of Uhha; six doti for
+ himself, and five doti for his sub; altogether seventy-five doti&mdash;
+ a bale and a quarter!  No sooner had we paid than they began to
+ fight amongst themselves over the booty, and I was in hopes that
+ the factions would proceed to battle, that I might have good excuse
+ for leaving them, and plunging south to the jungle that I believed
+ existed there, by which means, under its friendly cover, we might
+ strike west.  But no, it was only a verbose war, which portended
+ nothing more than a noisy clamor.
+
+ November 6th.&mdash;At dawn we were on the road, very silent and sad.
+ Our stock of cloth was much diminished; we had nine bales left,
+ sufficient to have taken us to the Atlantic Ocean&mdash;aided by the
+ beads, which were yet untouched&mdash;if we practised economy.  If I
+ met many more like Mionvu I had not enough to take me to Ujiji,
+ and, though we were said to be so near, Livingstone seemed to me
+ to be just as far as ever.
+
+ We crossed the Pombwe, and then struck across a slowly-undulating
+ plain rising gradually to mountains on our right, and on our left
+ sinking towards the valley of the Malagarazi, which river was
+ about twenty miles away.  Villages rose to our view everywhere.
+ Food was cheap, milk was plentiful, and the butter good.
+
+ After a four hours' march, we crossed the Kanengi River, and
+ entered the boma of Kahirigi, inhabited by several Watusi and Wahha.
+ Here, we were told, lived the King of Uhha's brother.  This
+ announcement was anything but welcome, and I began to suspect I had
+ fallen into another hornets' nest.  We had not rested two hours
+ before two Wangwana entered my tent, who were slaves of Thani bin
+ Abdullah, our dandified friend of Unyanyembe.  These men came, on
+ the part of the king's brother, to claim the HONGA!  The king's
+ brother, demanded thirty doti!  Half a bale!  Merciful Providence!
+ What shall I do?
+
+ We had been told by Mionvu that the honga of Uhha was settled&mdash;and
+ now here is another demand from the King's brother!  It is the
+ second time the lie has been told, and we have twice been deceived.
+ We shall be deceived no more.
+
+ These two men informed us there were five more chiefs, living but
+ two hours from each other, who would exact tribute, or black-mail,
+ like those we had seen.  Knowing this much, I felt a certain calm.
+ It was far better to know the worst at once.  Five more chiefs with
+ their demands would assuredly ruin us.  In view of which, what is
+ to be done?  How am I to reach Livingstone, without being beggared?
+
+ Dismissing the men, I called Bombay, and told him to assist Asmani
+ in settling the honga&mdash;"as cheaply as possible."  I then lit my
+ pipe, put on the cap of consideration, and began to think.  Within
+ half an hour, I had made a plan, which was to be attempted to be
+ put in execution that very night.
+
+ I summoned the two slaves of Thani bin Abdullah, after the honga
+ had been settled to everybody's satisfaction&mdash;though the profoundest
+ casuistries and diplomatic arguments failed to reduce it lower than
+ twenty-six doti&mdash;and began asking them about the possibility of
+ evading the tribute-taking Wahha ahead.
+
+ This rather astonished them at first, and they declared it to be
+ impossible; but, finally, after being pressed, they replied, that
+ one of their number should guide us at midnight, or a little after,
+ into the jungle which grew on the frontiers of Uhha and Uvinza.  By
+ keeping a direct west course through this jungle until we came to
+ Ukaranga we might be enabled&mdash;we were told&mdash;to travel through Uhha
+ without further trouble.  If I were willing to pay the guide
+ twelve doti, and if I were able to impose silence on my people
+ while passing through the sleeping village, the guide was positive
+ I could reach Ujiji without paying another doti.  It is needless to
+ add, that I accepted the proffered assistance at such a price with
+ joy.
+
+ But there was much to be done.  Provisions were to be purchased,
+ sufficient to last four days, for the tramp through the jungle,
+ and men were at once sent with cloth to purchase grain at any price.
+ Fortune favoured us, for before 8 P.M. we had enough for six days.
+
+ November 7th.&mdash;I did not go to sleep at all last night, but a
+ little after midnight, as the moon was beginning to show itself,
+ by gangs of four, the men stole quietly out of the village; and
+ by 3 A.M. the entire Expedition was outside the boma, and not the
+ slightest alarm had been made.  After a signal to the new guide,
+ the Expedition began to move in a southern direction along the
+ right bank of the Kanengi River.  After an hour's march in this
+ direction, we struck west, across the grassy plain, and maintained
+ it, despite the obstacles we encountered, which were sore enough to
+ naked men.  The bright moon lighted our path: dark clouds now and
+ then cast immense long shadows over the deserted and silent plains,
+ and the moonbeans were almost obscured, and at such times our
+ position seemed awful&mdash;
+
+ Till the moon.
+ Rising in clouded majesty, at length,
+ Apparent queen, unveiled her peerless light,
+ And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw.
+
+ Bravely toiled the men, without murmur, though their legs were
+ bleeding from the cruel grass.  "Ambrosial morn" at last appeared,
+ with all its beautiful and lovely features.  Heaven was born anew
+ to us, with comforting omens and cheery promise.  The men, though
+ fatigued at the unusual travel, sped forward with quicker, pace as
+ daylight broke, until, at 8 A.M., we sighted the swift Rusugi River,
+ when a halt was ordered in a clump of jungle near it, for breakfast
+ and rest.  Both banks of the river were alive with buffalo, eland,
+ and antelope, but, though the sight was very tempting, we did not
+ fire, because we dared not.  The report of a gun would have alarmed
+ the whole country.  I preferred my coffee, and the contentment which
+ my mind experienced at our success.
+
+ An hour after we had rested, some natives, carrying salt from the
+ Malagarazi, were seen coming up the right bank of the river.  When
+ abreast of our hiding-place, they detected us, and dropping their
+ salt-bags, they took to their heels at once, shouting out as they
+ ran, to alarm some villages that appeared about four miles north of
+ us.  The men were immediately ordered to take up their loads, and
+ in a few minutes we had crossed the Rusugi, and were making direct
+ for a bamboo jungle that appeared in our front.  On, on, we kept
+ steadily until, at 1 P.M., we sighted the little lake of Musunya,
+ as wearied as possible with our nine hours march.
+
+ Lake Musunya is one of the many circular basins found in this part
+ of Uhha.  There was quite a group of them.  The more correct term
+ of these lakes would be immense pools.  In the Masika season, Lake
+ Musunya must extend to three or four miles in length by two in breadth.
+ It swarms with hippopotami, and its shores abound with noble game.
+
+ We were very quiet, as may be imagined, in our bivouac; neither
+ tent nor hut was raised, nor was fire kindled, so that, in case of
+ pursuit, we could move off without delay.  I kept my Winchester
+ rifle (the gift of my friend Mr. Morris, and a rare gift it was
+ for such a crisis) with its magazine full, and two hundred
+ cartridges in a bag slung over my shoulders.  Each soldier's gun
+ was also ready and loaded, and we retired to sleep our fatigues
+ off with a feeling of perfect security.
+
+ November 8th.&mdash;Long before dawn appeared, we were on the march, and,
+ as daylight broke, we emerged from the bamboo jungle, and struck
+ across the naked plain of Uhha, once more passing several large
+ pools by the way&mdash;far-embracing prospects of undulating country,
+ with here and there a characteristic clump of trees relieving the
+ general nudity of the whole.  Hour after hour we toiled on,
+ across the rolling land waves, the sun shining with all its wonted
+ African fervor, but with its heat slightly tempered by the
+ welcome breezes, which came laden with the fragrance of young
+ grass, and perfume of strange flowers of various hues, that flecked
+ the otherwise pale-green sheet which extended so far around us.
+
+ We arrived at the Rugufu River&mdash;not the Ukawendi Rugufu, but the
+ northern stream of that name, a tributary of the Malagarazi.  It
+ was a broad shallow stream, and sluggish, with an almost imperceptible
+ flow south-west.  While we halted in the deep shade afforded by a
+ dense clump of jungle, close to the right bank, resting awhile before
+ continuing our journey.  I distinctly heard a sound as of distant
+ thunder in the west.  Upon asking if it were thunder, I was told it
+ was Kabogo.
+
+ "Kabogo? what is that?"
+
+ "It is a great mountain on the other side of the Tanganika, full
+ of deep holes, into which the water rolls; and when there is wind
+ on the Tanganika, there is a sound like mvuha (thunder).  Many
+ boats have been lost there, and it is a custom with Arabs and
+ natives to throw cloth&mdash;Merikani and Kaniki&mdash;and especially white
+ (Merikani) beads, to appease the mulungu (god) of the lake.
+ Those who throw beads generally get past without trouble,
+ but those who do not throw beads into the lake get lost, and are
+ drowned.  Oh, it is a dreadful place!"  This story was told me by
+ the ever-smiling guide Asmani, and was corroborated by other
+ former mariners of the lake whom I had with me.
+
+ At the least, this place where we halted for dinner, on the banks
+ of the Rugufu River, is eighteen and a half hours, or forty-six
+ miles, from Ujiji; and, as Kabogo is said to be near Uguhha, it
+ must be over sixty miles from Ujiji; therefore the sound of the
+ thundering surf, which is said to roll into the caves of Kabogo,
+ was heard by us at a distance of over one hundred miles away from
+ them.
+
+ Continuing our journey for three hours longer, through thin
+ forests, over extensive beds of primitive rock, among fields of
+ large boulders thickly strewn about, passing by numerous herds
+ of buffalo, giraffe, and zebra, over a quaking quagmire which
+ resembled peat, we arrived at the small stream of Sunuzzi, to a
+ camping place only a mile removed from a large settlement of Wahha.
+ But we were buried in the depths of a great forest&mdash;no road was in
+ the vicinity, no noise was made, deep silence was preserved; nor
+ were fires lit.  We might therefore rest tranquilly secure, certain
+ that we should not be disturbed.  To-morrow morning the kirangozi
+ has promised we shall be out of Uhha, and if we travel on to
+ Niamtaga, in Ukaranga, the same day, the next day would see us
+ in Ujiji.
+
+ Patience, my soul!  A few hours more, then the end of all this
+ will be known!  I shall be face to face with that "white man with
+ the white hairs on his face, whoever he is!"
+
+ November 9th.&mdash;Two hours before dawn we left our camp on the Sunuzzi
+ River, and struck through the forest in a north-by-west direction,
+ having muzzled our goats previously, lest, by their bleating, they
+ might betray us.  This was a mistake which might have ended
+ tragically, for just as the eastern sky began to assume a pale
+ greyish tint, we emerged from the jungle on the high road.  The
+ guide thought we had passed Uhha, and set up a shout which was
+ echoed by every member of the caravan, and marched onward with
+ new vigor and increased energy, when plump we came to the outskirts
+ of a village, the inhabitants of which were beginning to stir.
+ Silence was called for at once, and the Expedition halted
+ immediately.  I walked forward to the front to advise with the guide.
+ He did not know what to do.  There was no time to consider, so I
+ ordered the goats to be slaughtered and left on the road, and the
+ guide to push on boldly through the village.  The chickens also had
+ their throats cut; after which the Expedition resumed the march
+ quickly and silently, led by the guide, who had orders to plunge
+ into the jungle south of the road.  I stayed until the last man
+ had disappeared; then, after preparing my Winchester, brought up
+ the rear, followed by my gunbearers with their stock of ammunition.
+ As we were about disappearing beyond the last hut, a man darted out
+ of his hut, and uttered an exclamation of alarm, and loud voices
+ were heard as if in dispute.  But in a short time we were in the
+ depths of the jungle, hurrying away from the road in a southern
+ direction, and edging slightly westward.  Once I thought we were
+ pursued, and I halted behind a tree to check our foes if they
+ persisted in following us; but a few minutes proved to me that we
+ were not pursued, After half-an-hour's march we again turned our
+ faces westward.  It was broad daylight now, and our eyes were
+ delighted with most picturesque and sequestered little valleys,
+ where wild fruit-trees grew, and rare flowers blossomed, and
+ tiny brooks tumbled over polished pebbles&mdash;where all was bright
+ and beautiful&mdash;until, finally, wading through one pretty pure
+ streamlet, whose soft murmurs we took for a gentle welcome, we
+ passed the boundary of wicked Uhha, and had entered Ukaranga!&mdash;
+ an event that was hailed with extravagant shouts of joy.
+
+ Presently we found the smooth road, and we trod gaily with
+ elastic steps, with limbs quickened for the march which we all
+ knew to be drawing near its end.  What cared we now for the
+ difficulties we had encountered&mdash;for the rough and cruel forests,
+ for the thorny thickets and hurtful grass, for the jangle of all
+ savagedom, of which we had been the joyless audience!  To-morrow!
+ Ay, the great day draws nigh, and we may well laugh and sing while
+ in this triumphant mood.  We have been sorely tried; we have been
+ angry with each other when vexed by troubles, but we forget all
+ these now, and there is no face but is radiant with the happiness
+ we have all deserved.
+
+ We made a short halt at noon, for rest and refreshment.  I was
+ shown the hills from which the Tanganika could be seen, which
+ bounded the valley of the Liuche on the east.  I could not contain
+ myself at the sight of them.  Even with this short halt I was
+ restless and unsatisfied.  We resumed the march again.  I spurred
+ my men forward with the promise that to-morrow should see their reward.
+
+ We were in sight of the villages of the Wakaranga; the people
+ caught sight of us, and manifested considerable excitement.  I sent
+ men ahead to reassure them, and they came forward to greet us.  This
+ was so new and welcome to us, so different from the turbulent Wavinza
+ and the black-mailers of Uhha, that we were melted.  But we had
+ no time to loiter by the way to indulge our joy.  I was impelled onward
+ by my almost uncontrollable feelings.  I wished to resolve my doubts
+ and fears.  Was HE still there?  Had HE heard of my coming?  Would HE
+ fly?
+
+ How beautiful Ukaranga appears!  The green hills are crowned by
+ clusters of straw-thatched cones.  The hills rise and fall; here
+ denuded and cultivated, there in pasturage, here timbered, yonder
+ swarming with huts.  The country has somewhat the aspect of Maryland.
+
+ We cross the Mkuti, a glorious little river!  We ascend the opposite
+ bank, and stride through the forest like men who have done a deed
+ of which they may be proud.  We have already travelled nine hours,
+ and the sun is sinking rapidly towards the west; yet, apparently,
+ we are not fatigued.
+
+ We reach the outskirts of Niamtaga, and we hear drums beat.  The
+ people are flying into the woods; they desert their villages, for
+ they take us to be Ruga-Ruga&mdash;the forest thieves of Mirambo, who,
+ after conquering the Arabs of Unyanyembe, are coming to fight the
+ Arabs of Ujiji.  Even the King flies from his village, and every
+ man, woman, and child, terror-stricken, follows him.  We enter
+ into it and quietly take possession.  Finally, the word is bruited
+ about that we are Wangwana, from Unyanyembe.
+
+ "Well, then, is Mirambo dead?" they ask.
+
+ "No," we answer.
+
+ "Well, how did you come to Ukaranga?"
+
+ "By way of Ukonongo, Ukawendi, and Uhha."
+
+ "Oh&mdash;hi-le!" Then they laugh heartily at their fright, and begin
+ to make excuses.  The King is introduced to me, and he says he had
+ only gone to the woods in order to attack us again&mdash;he meant to have
+ come back and killed us all, if we had been Ruga-Ruga.  But then we
+ know the poor King was terribly frightened, and would never have
+ dared to return, had we been RugaRuga&mdash;not he.  We are not, however,
+ in a mood to quarrel with him about an idiomatic phrase peculiar
+ to him, but rather take him by the hand and shake it well, and say
+ we are so very glad to see him.  And he shares in our pleasure,
+ and immediately three of the fattest sheep, pots of beer, flour,
+ and honey are brought to us as a gift, and I make him happier still
+ with two of the finest cloths I have in my bales; and thus a
+ friendly pact is entered into between us.
+
+ While I write my Diary of this day's proceedings, I tell my
+ servant to lay out my new flannel suit, to oil my boots, to
+ chalk my helmet, and fold a new puggaree around it, that I may
+ make as presentable an appearance as possible before the white
+ man with the grey beard, and before the Arabs of Ujiji; for the
+ clothes I have worn through jungle and forest are in tatters.
+ Good-night; only let one day come again, and we shall see what
+ we shall see.
+
+ November 10th. Friday.&mdash;The 236th day from Bagamoyo on the Sea,
+ and the 51st day from Unyanyembe.  General direction to Ujiji,
+ west-by-south.  Time of march, six hours.
+
+ It is a happy, glorious morning.  The air is fresh and cool.
+ The sky lovingly smiles on the earth and her children.  The deep
+ woods are crowned in bright vernal leafage; the water of the Mkuti,
+ rushing under the emerald shade afforded by the bearded banks,
+ seems to challenge us for the race to Ujiji, with its continuous
+ brawl.
+
+ We are all outside the village cane fence, every man of us looking
+ as spruce, as neat, and happy as when we embarked on the dhows at
+ Zanzibar, which seems to us to have been ages ago&mdash;we have witnessed
+ and experienced so much.
+
+ "Forward!"
+
+ "Ay Wallah, ay Wallah, bana yango!" and the lighthearted braves
+ stride away at a rate which must soon bring us within view of
+ Ujiji.  We ascend a hill overgrown with bamboo, descend into a
+ ravine through which dashes an impetuous little torrent, ascend
+ another short hill, then, along a smooth footpath running across
+ the slope of a long ridge, we push on as only eager, lighthearted
+ men can do.
+
+ In two hours I am warned to prepare for a view of the Tanganika,
+ for, from the top of a steep mountain the kirangozi says I can see
+ it.  I almost vent the feeling of my heart in cries.  But wait, we
+ must behold it first.  And we press forward and up the hill
+ breathlessly, lest the grand scene hasten away.  We are at last on
+ the summit.  Ah! not yet can it be seen.  A little further on&mdash;just
+ yonder, oh! there it is&mdash;a silvery gleam.  I merely catch sight of
+ it between the trees, and&mdash;but here it is at last!  True&mdash;THE TANGANIKA!
+ and there are the blue-black mountains of Ugoma and Ukaramba.  An
+ immense broad sheet, a burnished bed of silver&mdash;lucid canopy of
+ blue above&mdash;lofty mountains are its valances, palm forests form its
+ fringes!  The Tanganika!&mdash;Hurrah! and the men respond to the
+ exultant cry of the Anglo-Saxon with the lungs of Stentors, and the
+ great forests and the hills seem to share in our triumph.
+
+ "Was this the place where Burton and Speke stood, Bombay, when they
+ saw the lake first?"
+
+ "I don't remember, master; it was somewhere about here, I think."
+
+ "Poor fellows!  The one was half-paralyzed, the other half-blind,"
+ said Sir Roderick Murchison, when he described Burton and Spoke's
+ arrival in view of the Tanganika.
+
+ And I?  Well, I am so happy that, were I quite paralyzed and
+ blinded, I think that at this supreme moment I could take up my
+ bed and walk, and all blindness would cease at once.  Fortunately,
+ however, I am quite well; I have not suffered a day's sickness
+ since the day I left Unyanyembe.  How much would Shaw be willing
+ to give to be in my place now?  Who is happiest&mdash;he revelling in
+ the luxuries of Unyanyembe, or I, standing on the summit of this
+ mountain, looking down with glad eyes and proud heart on the
+ Tanganika?
+
+ We are descending the western slope of the mountain, with the
+ valley of the Liuche before us.  Something like an hour before
+ noon we have gained the thick matete brake, which grows on both
+ banks of the river; we wade through the clear stream, arrive on
+ the other side, emerge out of the brake, and the gardens of the
+ Wajiji are around us&mdash;a perfect marvel of vegetable wealth.
+ Details escape my hasty and partial observation.  I am almost
+ overpowered with my own emotions.  I notice the graceful palms,
+ neat plots, green with vegetable plants, and small villages
+ surrounded with frail fences of the matete-cane.
+
+ We push on rapidly, lest the news of our coming might reach the
+ people of Ujiji before we come in sight, and are ready for them.
+ We halt at a little brook, then ascend the long slope of a naked
+ ridge, the very last of the myriads we have crossed.  This alone
+ prevents us from seeing the lake in all its vastness.  We arrive
+ at the summit, travel across and arrive at its western rim, and&mdash;
+ pause, reader&mdash;the port of Ujiji is below us, embowered in the
+ palms, only five hundred yards from us!
+
+ At this grand moment we do not think of the hundreds of miles we
+ have marched, or of the hundreds of hills that we have ascended
+ and descended, or of the many forests we have traversed, or of the
+ jungles and thickets that annoyed us, or of the fervid salt plains
+ that blistered our feet, or of the hot suns that scorched us, nor
+ of the dangers and difficulties, now happily surmounted!
+
+ At last the sublime hour has arrived;&mdash;our dreams, our hopes, and
+ anticipations are now about to be realised!  Our hearts and our
+ feelings are with our eyes, as we peer into the palms and try to
+ make out in which hut or house lives the "white man with the grey
+ beard" we heard about when we were at the Malagarazi.
+
+ "Unfurl the flags, and load your guns!"
+
+ "We will, master, we will, master!" respond the men eagerly.
+
+ "One, two, three,&mdash;fire!"
+
+ A volley from nearly fifty guns roars like a salute from a
+ battery of artillery: we shall note its effect presently on
+ the peaceful-looking village below.
+
+ "Now, kirangozi, hold the white man's flag up high, and let the
+ Zanzibar flag bring up the rear.  And you men keep close together,
+ and keep firing until we halt in the market-place, or before the
+ white man's house.  You have said to me often that you could smell
+ the fish of the Tanganika&mdash;I can smell the fish of the Tanganika
+ now.  There are fish, and beer, and a long rest waiting for you.
+ MARCH!"
+
+ Before we had gone a hundred yards our repeated volleys had the
+ effect desired.  We had awakened Ujiji to the knowledge that a
+ caravan was coming, and the people were witnessed rushing up in
+ hundreds to meet us.  The mere sight of the flags informed every
+ one immediately that we were a caravan, but the American flag
+ borne aloft by gigantic Asmani, whose face was one vast smile on
+ this day, rather staggered them at first.  However, many of the
+ people who now approached us, remembered the flag.  They had seen
+ it float above the American Consulate, and from the mast-head of
+ many a ship in the harbor of Zanzibar, and they were soon heard
+ welcoming the beautiful flag with cries of "Bindera Kisungu!"&mdash;a
+ white man's flag!  "Bindera Merikani!"&mdash;the American flag!
+
+ Then we were surrounded by them: by Wajiji, Wanyamwezi, Wangwana,
+ Warundi, Waguhha, Wamanyuema, and Arabs, and were almost
+ deafened with the shouts of "Yambo, yambo, bana!  Yambo, bana!
+ Yambo, bana!" To all and each of my men the welcome was given.
+
+ We were now about three hundred yards from the village of Ujiji,
+ and the crowds are dense about me.  Suddenly I hear a voice on
+ my right say,
+
+ "Good morning, sir!"
+
+ Startled at hearing this greeting in the midst of such a crowd of
+ black people, I turn sharply around in search of the man, and see
+ him at my side, with the blackest of faces, but animated and
+ joyous&mdash;a man dressed in a long white shirt, with a turban of
+ American sheeting around his woolly head, and I ask:
+
+ "Who the mischief are you?"
+
+ "I am Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone," said be, smiling,
+ and showing a gleaming row of teeth.
+
+ "What!  Is Dr. Livingstone here?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "In this village?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "Are you sure?"
+
+ "Sure, sure, sir.  Why, I leave him just now."
+
+ "Good morning, sir," said another voice.
+
+ "Hallo," said I, "is this another one?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "Well, what is your name?"
+
+ "My name is Chumah, sir."
+
+ "What! are you Chumah, the friend of Wekotani?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "And is the-Doctor well?"
+
+ "Not very well, sir."
+
+ "Where has he been so long?"
+
+ "In Manyuema."
+
+ "Now, you Susi, run, and tell the Doctor I am coming."
+
+ "Yes, sir," and off he darted like a madman.
+
+ But by this time we were within two hundred yards of the village,
+ and the multitude was getting denser, and almost preventing our
+ march.  Flags and streamers were out; Arabs and Wangwana were
+ pushing their way through the natives in order to greet us, for
+ according to their account, we belonged to them.  But the great
+ wonder of all was, "How did you come from Unyanyembe?"
+
+ Soon Susi came running back, and asked me my name; he had told
+ the Doctor I was coming, but the Doctor was too surprised to believe
+ him, and when the Doctor asked him my name, Susi was rather staggered.
+
+ But, during Susi's absence, the news had been conveyed to the
+ Doctor that it was surely a white man that was coming, whose guns
+ were firing, and whose flag could be seen; and the great Arab
+ magnates of Ujiji&mdash;Mohammed bin Sali, Sayd bin Majid, Abid bin
+ Suliman, Mohammed bin Gharib, and others&mdash;had gathered together
+ before the Doctor's house, and the Doctor had come out from his
+ veranda to discuss the matter and await my arrival.
+
+ In the meantime, the head of the Expedition had halted, and the
+ kirangozi was out of the ranks, holding his flag aloft, and Selim
+ said to me, "I see the Doctor, sir.  Oh, what an old man!  He has
+ got a white beard."  And I&mdash;what would I not have given for a bit
+ of friendly wilderness, where, unseen, I might vent my joy in some
+ mad freak, such as idiotically biting my hand; turning a somersault,
+ or slashing at trees, in order to allay those exciting feelings
+ that were well-nigh uncontrollable.  My heart beats fast, but I must
+ not let my face betray my emotions, lest it shall detract from the
+ dignity of a white man appearing under such extraordinary circumstances.
+
+ So I did that which I thought was most dignified.  I pushed back
+ the crowds, and, passing from the rear, walked down a living avenue
+ of people, until I came in front of the semicircle of Arabs, before
+ which stood the "white man with the grey beard."
+
+ As I advanced slowly towards him I noticed he was pale, that he
+ looked wearied and wan, that he had grey whiskers and moustache,
+ that he wore a bluish cloth cap with a faded gold band on a red
+ ground round it, and that he had on a red-sleeved waistcoat, and a
+ pair of grey tweed trousers.
+
+ I would have run to him, only I was a coward in the presence of
+ such a mob&mdash;would have embraced him, but that I did not know how
+ he would receive me; so I did what moral cowardice and false pride
+ suggested was the best thing&mdash;walked deliberately to him, took off
+ my hat, and said:
+
+ "DR. LIVINGSTONE, I PRESUME?"
+
+ "Yes," said he, with a kind, cordial smile, lifting his cap slightly.
+
+ I replaced my hat on my head, and he replaced his cap, and we
+ both grasped hands.  I then said aloud:
+
+ "I thank God, Doctor, I have been permitted to see you."
+
+ He answered, "I feel thankful that I am here to welcome you."
+
+ I turned to the Arabs, took off my hat to them in response to the
+ saluting chorus of "Yambos" I received, and the Doctor introduced
+ them to me by name.  Then, oblivious of the crowds, oblivious of
+ the men who shared with me my dangers, we&mdash;Livingstone and I&mdash;
+ turned our faces towards his house.  He pointed to the veranda,
+ or rather, mud platform, under the broad overhanging eaves; he
+ pointed to his own particular seat, which I saw his age and
+ experience in Africa had suggested, namely, a straw mat, with a
+ goatskin over it, and another skin nailed against the wall to
+ protect his back from contact with the cold mud.  I protested
+ against taking this seat, which so much more befitted him than I,
+ but the Doctor would not yield: I must take it.
+
+ We were seated&mdash;the Doctor and I&mdash;with our backs to the wall.
+ The Arabs took seats on our left.  More than a thousand natives
+ were in our front, filling the whole square densely, indulging
+ their curiosity, and discussing the fact of two white men meeting
+ at Ujiji&mdash;one just come from Manyuema, in the west, the other from
+ Unyanyembe, in the east.
+
+ Conversation began.  What about?  I declare I have forgotten.
+ Oh! we mutually asked questions of one another, such as
+ "How did you come here?" and "Where have you been all this long
+ time?&mdash;the world has believed you to be dead." Yes, that was the
+ way it began: but whatever the Doctor informed me, and that which
+ I communicated to him, I cannot correctly report, for I found myself
+ gazing at him, conning the wonderful figure and face of the man at
+ whose side I now sat in Central Africa.  Every hair of his head
+ and beard, every wrinkle of his face, the wanness of his features,
+ and the slightly wearied look he wore, were all imparting
+ intelligence to me&mdash;the knowledge I craved for so much ever since
+ I heard the words, "Take what you want, but find Livingstone."
+ What I saw was deeply interesting intelligence to me, and unvarnished
+ truth.  I was listening and reading at the same time.  What did these
+ dumb witnesses relate to me?
+
+ Oh, reader, had you been at my side on this day in Ujiji, how
+ eloquently could be told the nature of this man's work!  Had you
+ been there but to see and hear!  His lips gave me the details; lips
+ that never lie.  I cannot repeat what he said; I was too much
+ engrossed to take my note-book out, and begin to stenograph his story.
+ He had so much to say that he began at the end, seemingly oblivious
+ of the fact that five or six years had to be accounted for.  But his
+ account was oozing out; it was growing fast into grand proportions&mdash;
+ into a most marvellous history of deeds.
+
+ The Arabs rose up, with a delicacy I approved, as if they intuitively
+ knew that we ought to be left to ourselves.  I sent Bombay with them
+ to give them the news they also wanted so much to know about the
+ affairs at Unyanyembe.  Sayd bin Majid was the father of the gallant
+ young man whom I saw at Masangi, and who fought with me at Zimbizo,
+ and who soon afterwards was killed by Mirambo's Ruga-Ruga in the
+ forest of Wilyankuru; and, knowing that I had been there, he
+ earnestly desired to hear the tale of the fight; but they had all
+ friends at Unyanyembe, and it was but natural that they should be
+ anxious to hear of what concerned them.
+
+ After giving orders to Bombay and Asmani for the provisioning of
+ the men of the Expedition, I called "Kaif-Halek," or "How-do-ye-do,"
+ and introduced him to Dr. Livingstone as one of the soldiers in
+ charge of certain goods left at Unyanyembe, whom I had compelled
+ to accompany me to Ujiji, that he might deliver in person to his
+ master the letter-bag with which he had been entrusted.  This was
+ that famous letter-bag marked "Nov. 1st, 1870," which was now
+ delivered into the Doctor's hands 365 days after it left Zanzibar!
+ How long, I wonder, had it remained at Unyanyembe had I not been
+ despatched into Central Africa in search of the great traveller?
+
+ The Doctor kept the letter-bag on his knee, then, presently, opened
+ it, looked at the letters contained there, and read one or two of
+ his children's letters, his face in the meanwhile lighting up.
+
+ He asked me to tell him the news.  "No, Doctor," said I, "read your
+ letters first, which I am sure you must be impatient to read."
+
+ "Ah," said he, "I have waited years for letters, and I have been
+ taught patience.  I can surely afford to wait a few hours longer.
+ No, tell me the general news: how is the world getting along?
+
+ "You probably know much already.  Do you know that the Suez Canal
+ is a fact&mdash;is opened, and a regular trade carried on between Europe
+ and India through it?"
+
+ "I did not hear about the opening of it.  Well, that is grand news!
+ What else?"
+
+ Shortly I found myself enacting the part of an annual periodical
+ to him.  There was no need of exaggeration of any penny-a-line
+ news, or of any sensationalism.  The world had witnessed and
+ experienced much the last few years.  The Pacific Railroad had been
+ completed (1869); Grant had been elected President of the United States;
+ Egypt had been flooded with savans: the Cretan rebellion had
+ terminated (1866-1868); a Spanish revolution had driven Isabella
+ from the throne of Spain, and a Regent had been appointed: General
+ Prim was assassinated; a Castelar had electrified Europe with his
+ advanced ideas upon the liberty of worship; Prussia had humbled Denmark,
+ and annexed Schleswig-Holstein &lt;1864>, and her armies were now around
+ Paris; the "Man of Destiny" was a prisoner at Wilhelmshohe;
+ the Queen of Fashion and the Empress of the French was a fugitive;
+ and the child born in the purple had lost for ever the Imperial
+ crown intended for his head; the Napoleon dynasty was extinguished
+ by the Prussians, Bismarck and Von Moltke; and France, the proud
+ empire, was humbled to the dust.
+
+ What could a man have exaggerated of these facts?  What a budget
+ of news it was to one who had emerged from the depths of the
+ primeval forests of Manyuema!  The reflection of the dazzling
+ light of civilisation was cast on him while Livingstone was thus
+ listening in wonder to one of the most exciting pages of history
+ ever repeated.  How the puny deeds of barbarism paled before
+ these!  Who could tell under what new phases of uneasy life Europe
+ was labouring even then, while we, two of her lonely children,
+ rehearsed the tale of her late woes and glories?  More worthily,
+ perhaps, had the tongue of a lyric Demodocus recounted them; but,
+ in the absence of the poet, the newspaper correspondent performed
+ his part as well and truthfully as he could.
+
+ Not long after the Arabs had departed, a dishful of hot hashed-meat
+ cakes was sent to us by Sayd bin Majid, and a curried chicken was
+ received from Mohammed bin Sali, and Moeni Kheri sent a dishful of
+ stewed goat-meat and rice; and thus presents of food came in
+ succession, and as fast as they were brought we set to.  I had a
+ healthy, stubborn digestion&mdash;the exercise I had taken had put it in
+ prime order; but Livingstone&mdash;he had been complaining that he had
+ no appetite, that his stomach refused everything but a cup of tea
+ now and then&mdash;he ate also&mdash;ate like a vigorous, hungry man; and,
+ as he vied with me in demolishing the pancakes, he kept repeating,
+ "You have brought me new life.  You have brought me new life."
+
+ "Oh, by George!" I said, "I have forgotten something.  Hasten,
+ Selim, and bring that bottle; you know which and bring me the silver
+ goblets.  I brought this bottle on purpose for this event, which
+ I hoped would come to pass, though often it seemed useless to expect
+ it."
+
+ Selim knew where the bottle was, and he soon returned with it&mdash;a
+ bottle of Sillery champagne; and, handing the Doctor a silver
+ goblet brimful of the exhilarating wine, and pouring a small
+ quantity into my own, I said,
+
+ "Dr. Livingstone, to your very good health, sir."
+
+ "And to yours!" he responded, smilingly.
+
+ And the champagne I had treasured for this happy meeting was drunk
+ with hearty good wishes to each other.
+
+ But we kept on talking and talking, and prepared food was being
+ brought to us all that afternoon; and we kept on eating each time
+ it was brought, until I had eaten even to repletion, and the Doctor
+ was obliged to confess that he had eaten enough.  Still, Halimah,
+ the female cook of the Doctor's establishment, was in a state of
+ the greatest excitement.  She had been protruding her head out of
+ the cookhouse to make sure that there were really two white men
+ sitting down in the veranda, when there used to be only one, who
+ would not, because he could not, eat anything; and she had been
+ considerably exercised in her mind about this fact.  She was
+ afraid the Doctor did not properly appreciate her culinary
+ abilities; but now she was amazed at the extraordinary quantity
+ of food eaten, and she was in a state of delightful excitement.
+ We could hear her tongue rolling off a tremendous volume of
+ clatter to the wondering crowds who halted before the kitchen
+ to hear the current of news with which she edified them.  Poor,
+ faithful soul!  While we listened to the noise of her furious
+ gossip, the Doctor related her faithful services, and the
+ terrible anxiety she evinced when the guns first announced
+ the  arrival of another white man in Ujiji; how she had been
+ flying about in a state cf the utmost excitement, from the kitchen
+ into his presence, and out again into the square, asking all sorts
+ of questions; how she was in despair at the scantiness of the
+ general larder and treasury of the strange household; how she
+ was anxious to make up for their poverty by a grand appearance&mdash;
+ to make up a sort of Barmecide feast to welcome the white man.
+ "Why," said she, "is he not one of us?  Does he not bring plenty
+ of cloth and beads?  Talk about the Arabs!  Who are they that
+ they should be compared to white men?  Arabs, indeed!"
+
+ The Doctor and I conversed upon many things, especially upon his
+ own immediate troubles, and his disappointments, upon his arrival
+ in Ujiji, when told that all his goods had been sold, and he was
+ reduced to poverty.  He had but twenty cloths or so left of the
+ stock he had deposited with the man called Sherif, the half-caste
+ drunken tailor, who was sent by the Consul in charge of the goods.
+ Besides which he had been suffering from an attack of dysentery,
+ and his condition was most deplorable.  He was but little improved
+ on this day, though he had eaten well, and already began to feel
+ stronger and better.
+
+ This day, like all others, though big with happiness to me, at last
+ was fading away.  While sitting with our faces looking to the east,
+ as Livingstone had been sitting for days preceding my arrival, we
+ noted the dark shadows which crept up above the grove of palms
+ beyond the village, and above the rampart of mountains which we had
+ crossed that day, now looming through the fast approaching
+ darkness; and we listened, with our hearts full of gratitude to
+ the Great Giver of Good and Dispenser of all Happiness, to the
+ sonorous thunder of the surf of the Tanganika, and to the chorus
+ which the night insects sang.  Hours passed, and we were still
+ sitting there with our minds busy upon the day's remarkable events,
+ when I remembered that the traveller had not yet read his letters.
+
+ "Doctor," I said, "you had better read your letters.  I will not
+ keep you up any longer."
+
+ "Yes," he answered, "it is getting late; and I will go and read
+ my friends' letters.  Good-night, and God bless you."
+
+ "Good-night, my dear Doctor; and let me hope that your news will
+ be such as you desire."
+
+ I have now related, by means of my Diary, "How I found Livingstone,"
+ as recorded on the evening of that great day.  I have been averse
+ to reduce it by process of excision and suppression, into a mere
+ cold narrative, because, by so doing, I would be unable to record
+ what feelings swayed each member of the Expedition as well as myself
+ during the days preceding the discovery of the lost traveller, and
+ more especially the day it was the good fortune of both Livingstone
+ and myself to clasp each other's hands in the strong friendship
+ which was born in that hour we thus strangely met.  The aged
+ traveller, though cruelly belied, contrary to all previous expectation,
+ received me as a friend; and the cordial warmth with which he accepted
+ my greeting; the courtesy with which he tendered to me a shelter
+ in his own house; the simple candour of his conversation; graced
+ by unusual modesty of manner, and meekness of spirit, wrought in me
+ such a violent reaction in his favor, that when the parting
+ "good-night" was uttered, I felt a momentary vague fear lest the
+ fulness of joy which I experienced that evening would be diminished
+ by some envious fate, before the morrow's sun should rise above Ujiji.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER XII. &mdash; INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE AT UJIJI
+    </h2>
+    <h3>
+      LIVINGSTONE'S OWN STORY OF HIS JOURNEYS, HIS TROUBLES, AND
+      DISAPPOINTMENTS.
+    </h3>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ "If there is love between us, inconceivably delicious, and
+ profitable will our intercourse be; if not, your time is lost,
+ and you will only annoy me.  I shall seem to you stupid, and the
+ reputation I have false.  All my good is magnetic, and I educate
+ not by lessons, but by going about my business."&mdash;Emerson's
+ 'Representative Men'.
+</pre>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ I woke up early next morning with a sudden start.  The room was
+ strange!  It was a house, and not my tent!  Ah, yes! I recollected
+ I had discovered Livingstone, and I was in his house.  I listened,
+ that the knowledge dawning on me might be confirmed by the sound
+ of his voice.  I heard nothing but the sullen roar of the surf.
+
+ I lay quietly in bed.  Bed!  Yes, it was a primitive four-poster,
+ with the leaves of the palm-tree spread upon it instead of down,
+ and horsehair and my bearskin spread over this serving me in place
+ of linen.  I began to put myself under rigid mental cross-examination,
+and to an analyzation of my position.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      "What was I sent for?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "To find Livingstone."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Have you found him?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes, of course; am I not in his house? Whose compass is that hanging on a
+      peg there? Whose clothes, whose boots, are those? Who reads those
+      newspapers, those 'Saturday Reviews' and numbers of 'Punch' lying on the
+      floor?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, what are you going to do now?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I shall tell him this morning who sent me, and what brought me here. I
+      will then ask him to write a letter to Mr. Bennett, and to give what news
+      he can spare. I did not come here to rob him of his news. Sufficient for
+      me is it that I have found him. It is a complete success so far. But it
+      will be a greater one if he gives me letters for Mr. Bennett, and an
+      acknowledgment that he has seen me."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Do you think he will do so?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Why not? I have come here to do him a service. He has no goods. I have.
+      He has no men with him. I have. If I do a friendly part by him, will he
+      not do a friendly part by me? What says the poet?&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+              Nor hope to find
+     A friend, but who has found a friend in thee.
+     All like the purchase; few the price will pay
+     And this makes friends such wonders here below.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      I have paid the purchase, by coming so far to do him a service. But I
+      think, from what I have seen of him last night, that he is not such a
+      niggard and misanthrope as I was led to believe. He exhibited considerable
+      emotion, despite the monosyllabic greeting, when he shook my hand. If he
+      were a man to feel annoyance at any person coming after him, he would not
+      have received me as he did, nor would he ask me to live with him, but he
+      would have surlily refused to see me, and told me to mind my own business.
+      Neither does he mind my nationality; for 'here,' said he, 'Americans and
+      Englishmen are the same people. We speak the same language and have the
+      same ideas.' Just so, Doctor; I agree with you. Here at least, Americans
+      and Englishmen shall be brothers, and, whatever I can do for you, you may
+      command me freely."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I dressed myself quietly, intending to take a stroll along the Tanganika
+      before the Doctor should rise; opened the door, which creaked horribly on
+      its hinges, and walked out to the veranda.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Halloa, Doctor!&mdash;you up already? I hope you have slept well?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Good-morning, Mr. Stanley! I am glad to see you. I hope you rested well.
+      I sat up late reading my letters. You have brought me good and bad news.
+      But sit down." He made a place for me by his side. "Yes, many of my
+      friends are dead. My eldest son has met with a sad accident&mdash;that is,
+      my boy Tom; my second son, Oswell, is at college studying medicine, and is
+      doing well I am told. Agnes, my eldest daughter, has been enjoying herself
+      in a yacht, with 'Sir Paraffine' Young and his family. Sir Roderick, also,
+      is well, and expresses a hope that he will soon see me. You have brought
+      me quite a budget."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The man was not an apparition, then, and yesterday's scenes were not the
+      result of a dream! and I gazed on him intently, for thus I was assured he
+      had not run away, which was the great fear that constantly haunted me as I
+      was journeying to Ujiji.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Now, Doctor," said I, "you are, probably, wondering why I came here?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "It is true," said he; "I have been wondering. I thought you, at first, an
+      emissary of the French Government, in the place of Lieutenant Le Saint,
+      who died a few miles above Gondokoro. I heard you had boats, plenty of
+      men, and stores, and I really believed you were some French officer, until
+      I saw the American flag; and, to tell you the truth, I was rather glad it
+      was so, because I could not have talked to him in French; and if he did
+      not know English, we had been a pretty pair of white men in Ujiji! I did
+      not like to ask you yesterday, because I thought it was none of my
+      business."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well," said I, laughing, "for your sake I am glad that I am an American,
+      and not a Frenchman, and that we can understand each other perfectly
+      without an interpreter. I see that the Arabs are wondering that you, an
+      Englishman, and I, an American, understand each other. We must take care
+      not to tell them that the English and Americans have fought, and that
+      there are 'Alabama' claims left unsettled, and that we have such people as
+      Fenians in America, who hate you. But, seriously, Doctor&mdash;now don't
+      be frightened when I tell you that I have come after&mdash;YOU!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "After me?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well. You have heard of the 'New York Herald?'"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh&mdash;who has not heard of that newspaper?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Without his father's knowledge or consent, Mr. James Gordon Bennett, son
+      of Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the 'Herald,' has
+      commissioned me to find you&mdash;to get whatever news of your discoveries
+      you like to give&mdash;and to assist you, if I can, with means."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Young Mr. Bennett told you to come after me, to find me out, and help me!
+      It is no wonder, then, you praised Mr. Bennett so much last night."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I know him&mdash;I am proud to say&mdash;to be just what I say he is. He
+      is an ardent, generous, and true man."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, indeed! I am very much obliged to him; and it makes me feel proud
+      to think that you Americans think so much of me. You have just come in the
+      proper time; for I was beginning to think that I should have to beg from
+      the Arabs. Even they are in want of cloth, and there are but few beads in
+      Ujiji. That fellow Sherif has robbed me of all. I wish I could embody my
+      thanks to Mr. Bennett in suitable words; but if I fail to do so, do not, I
+      beg of you, believe me the less grateful."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "And now, Doctor, having disposed of this little affair, Ferajji shall
+      bring breakfast; if you have no objection."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "You have given me an appetite," he said.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Halimah is my cook, but she never can tell the difference between tea and
+      coffee."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ferajji, the cook, was ready as usual with excellent tea, and a dish of
+      smoking cakes; "dampers," as the Doctor called them. I never did care much
+      for this kind of a cake fried in a pan, but they were necessary to the
+      Doctor, who had nearly lost all his teeth from the hard fare of Lunda. He
+      had been compelled to subsist on green ears of Indian corn; there was no
+      meat in that district; and the effort to gnaw at the corn ears had
+      loosened all his teeth. I preferred the corn scones of Virginia, which, to
+      my mind, were the nearest approach to palatable bread obtainable in
+      Central Africa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Doctor said he had thought me a most luxurious and rich man, when he
+      saw my great bath-tub carried on the shoulders of one of my men; but he
+      thought me still more luxurious this morning, when my knives and forks,
+      and plates, and cups, saucers, silver spoons, and silver teapot were
+      brought forth shining and bright, spread on a rich Persian carpet, and
+      observed that I was well attended to by my yellow and ebon Mercuries.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This was the beginning of our life at Ujiji. I knew him not as a friend
+      before my arrival. He was only an object to me&mdash;a great item for a
+      daily newspaper, as much as other subjects in which the voracious
+      news-loving public delight in. I had gone over battlefields, witnessed
+      revolutions, civil wars, rebellions, emeutes and massacres; stood close to
+      the condemned murderer to record his last struggles and last sighs; but
+      never had I been called to record anything that moved me so much as this
+      man's woes and sufferings, his privations and disappointments, which now
+      were poured into my ear. Verily did I begin to perceive that "the Gods
+      above do with just eyes survey the affairs of men." I began to recognize
+      the hand of an overruling and kindly Providence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The following are singular facts worthy for reflection. I was,
+      commissioned for the duty of discovering Livingstone sometime in October,
+      1869. Mr. Bennett was ready with the money, and I was ready for the
+      journey. But, observe, reader, that I did not proceed directly upon the
+      search mission. I had many tasks to fulfil before proceeding with it, and
+      many thousand miles to travel over. Supposing that I had gone direct to
+      Zanzibar from Paris, seven or eight months afterwards, perhaps, I should
+      have found myself at Ujiji, but Livingstone would not have been found
+      there then; he was on the Lualaba; and I should have had to follow him on
+      his devious tracks through the primeval forests of Manyuema, and up along
+      the crooked course of the Lualaba for hundreds of miles. The time taken by
+      me in travelling up the Nile, back to Jerusalem, then to Constantinople,
+      Southern Russia, the Caucasus, and Persia, was employed by Livingstone in
+      fruitful discoveries west of the Tanganika. Again, consider that I arrived
+      at Unyanyembe in the latter part of June, and that owing to a war I was
+      delayed three months at Unyanyembe, leading a fretful, peevish and
+      impatient life. But while I was thus fretting myself, and being delayed by
+      a series of accidents, Livingstone was being forced back to Ujiji in the
+      same month. It took him from June to October to march to Ujiji. Now, in
+      September, I broke loose from the thraldom which accident had imposed on
+      me, and hurried southward to Ukonongo, then westward to Kawendi, then
+      northward to Uvinza, then westward to Ujiji, only about three weeks after
+      the Doctor's arrival, to find him resting under the veranda of his house
+      with his face turned eastward, the direction from which I was coming. Had
+      I gone direct from Paris on the search I might have lost him; had I been
+      enabled to have gone direct to Ujiji from Unyanyembe I might have lost
+      him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The days came and went peacefully and happily, under the palms of Ujiji.
+      My companion was improving in health and spirits. Life had been brought
+      back to him; his fading vitality was restored, his enthusiasm for his work
+      was growing up again into a height that was compelling him to desire to be
+      up and doing. But what could he do, with five men and fifteen or twenty
+      cloths?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Have you seen the northern head of the Tangannka, Doctor?" I asked one
+      day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "No; I did try to go there, but the Wajiji were doing their best to fleece
+      me, as they did both Burton and Speke, and I had not a great deal of
+      cloth. If I had gone to the head of the Tanganika, I could not have gone,
+      to Manyuema. The central line of drainage was the most important, and that
+      is the Lualaba. Before this line the question whether there is a
+      connection between the Tanganika and the Albert N'Yanza sinks into
+      insignificance. The great line of drainage is the river flowing from
+      latitude 11 degrees south, which I followed for over seven degrees
+      northward. The Chambezi, the name given to its most southern extremity,
+      drains a large tract of country south of the southernmost source of the
+      Tanganika; it must, therefore, be the most important. I have not the least
+      doubt, myself, but that this lake is the Upper Tanganika, and the Albert
+      N'Yanza of Baker is the Lower Tanganika, which are connected by a river
+      flowing from the upper to the lower. This is my belief, based upon reports
+      of the Arabs, and a test I made of the flow with water-plants. But I
+      really never gave it much thought."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, if I were you, Doctor, before leaving Ujiji, I should explore it,
+      and resolve the doubts upon the subject; lest, after you leave here, you
+      should not return by this way. The Royal Geographical Society attach much
+      importance to this supposed connection, and declare you are the only man
+      who can settle it. If I can be of any service to you, you may command me.
+      Though I did not come to Africa as an explorer, I have a good deal of
+      curiosity upon the subject, and should be willing to accompany you. I have
+      with me about twenty men who understand rowing we have plenty of guns,
+      cloth, and beads; and if we can get a canoe from the Arabs we can manage
+      the thing easily."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh, we can get a canoe from Sayd bin Majid. This man has been very kind
+      to me, and if ever there was an Arab gentleman, he is one."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Then it is settled, is it, that we go?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I am ready, whenever you are."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I am at your command. Don't you hear my men call you the 'Great Master,'
+      and me the 'Little Master?' It would never do for the 'Little Master' to
+      command."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By this time Livingstone was becoming known to me. I defy any one to be in
+      his society long without thoroughly fathoming him, for in him there is no
+      guile, and what is apparent on the surface is the thing that is in him. I
+      simply write down my own opinion of the man as I have seen him, not as he
+      represents himself; as I know him to be, not as I have heard of him. I
+      lived with him from the 10th November, 1871, to the 14th March, 1872;
+      witnessed his conduct in the camp, and on the march, and my feelings for
+      him are those of unqualified admiration. The camp is the best place to
+      discover a man's weaknesses, where, if he is flighty or wrong-headed, he
+      is sure to develop his hobbies and weak side. I think it possible,
+      however, that Livingstone, with an unsuitable companion, might feel
+      annoyance. I know I should do so very readily, if a man's character was of
+      that oblique nature that it was an impossibility to travel in his company.
+      I have seen men, in whose company I felt nothing but a thraldom, which it
+      was a duty to my own self-respect to cast off as soon as possible; a
+      feeling of utter incompatibility, with whose nature mine could never
+      assimilate. But Livingstone was a character that I venerated, that called
+      forth all my enthusiasm, that evoked nothing but sincerest admiration.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Dr. Livingstone is about sixty years old, though after he was restored to
+      health he appeared more like a man who had not passed his fiftieth year.
+      His hair has a brownish colour yet, but is here and there streaked with
+      grey lines over the temples; his whiskers and moustache are very grey. He
+      shaves his chin daily. His eyes, which are hazel, are remarkably bright;
+      he has a sight keen as a hawk's. His teeth alone indicate the weakness of
+      age; the hard fare of Lunda has made havoc in their lines. His form, which
+      soon assumed a stoutish appearance, is a little over the ordinary height
+      with the slightest possible bow in the shoulders. When walking he has a
+      firm but heavy tread, like that of an overworked or fatigued man. He is
+      accustomed to wear a naval cap with a semicircular peak, by which he has
+      been identified throughout Africa. His dress, when first I saw him,
+      exhibited traces of patching and repairing, but was scrupulously clean.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was led to believe that Livingstone possessed a splenetic, misanthropic
+      temper; some have said that he is garrulous, that he is demented; that he
+      has utterly changed from the David Livingstone whom people knew as the
+      reverend missionary; that he takes no notes or observations but such as
+      those which no other person could read but himself; and it was reported,
+      before I proceeded to Central Africa, that he was married to an African
+      princess.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I respectfully beg to differ with all and each of the above statements. I
+      grant he is not an angel, but he approaches to that being as near as the
+      nature of a living man will allow. I never saw any spleen or misanthropy
+      in him&mdash;as for being garrulous, Dr. Livingstone is quite the reverse:
+      he is reserved, if anything; and to the man who says Dr. Livingstone is
+      changed, all I can say is, that he never could have known him, for it is
+      notorious that the Doctor has a fund of quiet humour, which he exhibits at
+      all times whenever he is among friends. I must also beg leave to correct
+      the gentleman who informed me that Livingstone takes no notes or
+      observations. The huge Letts's Diary which I carried home to his daughter
+      is full of notes, and there are no less than a score of sheets within it
+      filled with observations which he took during the last trip he made to
+      Manyuema alone; and in the middle of the book there is sheet after sheet,
+      column after column, carefully written, of figures alone. A large letter
+      which I received from him has been sent to Sir Thomas MacLear, and this
+      contains nothing but observations. During the four months I was with him,
+      I noticed him every evening making most careful notes; and a large tin box
+      that he has with him contains numbers of field note-books, the contents of
+      which I dare say will see the light some time. His maps also evince great
+      care and industry. As to the report of his African marriage, it is
+      unnecessary to say more than that it is untrue, and it is utterly beneath
+      a gentleman to hint at such a thing in connection with the name of David
+      Livingstone.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There is a good-natured abandon about Livingstone which was not lost on
+      me. Whenever he began to laugh, there was a contagion about it, that
+      compelled me to imitate him. It was such a laugh as Herr Teufelsdrockh's&mdash;a
+      laugh of the whole man from head to heel. If he told a story, he related
+      it in such a way as to convince one of its truthfulness; his face was so
+      lit up by the sly fun it contained, that I was sure the story was worth
+      relating, and worth listening to.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The wan features which had shocked me at first meeting, the heavy step
+      which told of age and hard travel, the grey beard and bowed shoulders,
+      belied the man. Underneath that well-worn exterior lay an endless fund of
+      high spirits and inexhaustible humour; that rugged frame of his enclosed a
+      young and most exuberant soul. Every day I heard innumerable jokes and
+      pleasant anecdotes; interesting hunting stories, in which his friends
+      Oswell, Webb, Vardon, and Gorden Cumming were almost always the chief
+      actors. I was not sure, at first, but this joviality, humour, and abundant
+      animal spirits were the result of a joyous hysteria; but as I found they
+      continued while I was with him, I am obliged to think them natural.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another thing which specially attracted my attention was his wonderfully
+      retentive memory. If we remember the many years he has spent in Africa,
+      deprived of books, we may well think it an uncommon memory that can recite
+      whole poems from Byron, Burns, Tennyson, Longfellow, Whittier, and Lowell.
+      The reason of this may be found, perhaps, in the fact, that he has lived
+      all his life almost, we may say, within himself. Zimmerman, a great
+      student of human nature, says on this subject "The unencumbered mind
+      recalls all that it has read, all that pleased the eye, and delighted the
+      ear; and reflecting on every idea which either observation, or experience,
+      or discourse has produced, gains new information by every reflection. The
+      intellect contemplates all the former scenes of life; views by
+      anticipation those that are yet to come; and blends all ideas of past and
+      future in the actual enjoyment of the present moment." He has lived in a
+      world which revolved inwardly, out of which he seldom awoke except to
+      attend to the immediate practical necessities of himself and people; then
+      relapsed again into the same happy inner world, which he must have peopled
+      with his own friends, relations, acquaintances, familiar readings, ideas,
+      and associations; so that wherever he might be, or by whatsoever he was
+      surrounded, his own world always possessed more attractions to his
+      cultured mind than were yielded by external circumstances.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The study of Dr. Livingstone would not be complete if we did not take the
+      religious side of his character into consideration. His religion is not of
+      the theoretical kind, but it is a constant, earnest, sincere practice. It
+      is neither demonstrative nor loud, but manifests itself in a quiet,
+      practical way, and is always at work. It is not aggressive, which
+      sometimes is troublesome, if not impertinent. In him, religion exhibits
+      its loveliest features; it governs his conduct not only towards his
+      servants, but towards the natives, the bigoted Mohammedans, and all who
+      come in contact with him. Without it, Livingstone, with his ardent
+      temperament, his enthusiasm, his high spirit and courage, must have become
+      uncompanionable, and a hard master. Religion has tamed him, and made him a
+      Christian gentleman: the crude and wilful have been refined and subdued;
+      religion has made him the most companionable of men and indulgent of
+      masters&mdash;a man whose society is pleasurable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In Livingstone I have seen many amiable traits. His gentleness never
+      forsakes him; his hopefulness never deserts him. No harassing anxieties,
+      distraction of mind, long separation from home and kindred, can make him
+      complain. He thinks "all will come out right at last;" he has such faith
+      in the goodness of Providence. The sport of adverse circumstances, the
+      plaything of the miserable beings sent to him from Zanzibar&mdash;he has
+      been baffled and worried, even almost to the grave, yet he will not desert
+      the charge imposed upon him by his friend, Sir Roderick Murchison. To the
+      stern dictates of duty, alone, has he sacrificed his home and ease, the
+      pleasures, refinements, and luxuries of civilized life. His is the Spartan
+      heroism, the inflexibility of the Roman, the enduring resolution of the
+      Anglo-Saxon&mdash;never to relinquish his work, though his heart yearns
+      for home; never to surrender his obligations until he can write Finis to
+      his work.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But you may take any point in Dr. Livingstone's character, and analyse it
+      carefully, and I would challenge any man to find a fault in it. He is
+      sensitive, I know; but so is any man of a high mind and generous nature.
+      He is sensitive on the point of being doubted or being criticised. An
+      extreme love of truth is one of his strongest characteristics, which
+      proves him to be a man of strictest principles, and conscientious
+      scruples; being such, he is naturally sensitive, and shrinks from any
+      attacks on the integrity of his observations, and the accuracy of his
+      reports. He is conscious of having laboured in the course of geography and
+      science with zeal and industry, to have been painstaking, and as exact as
+      circumstances would allow. Ordinary critics seldom take into consideration
+      circumstances, but, utterly regardless of the labor expended in obtaining
+      the least amount of geographical information in a new land, environed by
+      inconceivable dangers and difficulties, such as Central Africa presents,
+      they seem to take delight in rending to tatters, and reducing to nil, the
+      fruits of long years of labor, by sharply-pointed shafts of ridicule and
+      sneers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Livingstone no doubt may be mistaken in some of his conclusions about
+      certain points in the geography of Central Africa, but he is not so
+      dogmatic and positive a man as to refuse conviction. He certainly demands,
+      when arguments in contra are used in opposition to him, higher authority
+      than abstract theory. His whole life is a testimony against its
+      unreliability, and his entire labor of years were in vain if theory can be
+      taken in evidence against personal observation and patient investigation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The reluctance he manifests to entertain suppositions, possibilities
+      regarding the nature, form, configuration of concrete immutable matter
+      like the earth, arises from the fact, that a man who commits himself to
+      theories about such an untheoretical subject as Central Africa is deterred
+      from bestirring himself to prove them by the test of exploration. His
+      opinion of such a man is, that he unfits himself for his duty, that he is
+      very likely to become a slave to theory&mdash;a voluptuous fancy, which
+      would master him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is his firm belief, that a man who rests his sole knowledge of the
+      geography of Africa on theory, deserves to be discredited. It has been the
+      fear of being discredited and criticised and so made to appear before the
+      world as a man who spent so many valuable years in Africa for the sake of
+      burdening the geographical mind with theory that has detained him so long
+      in Africa, doing his utmost to test the value of the main theory which
+      clung to him, and would cling to him until he proved or disproved it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This main theory is his belief that in the broad and mighty Lualaba he has
+      discovered the head waters of the Nile. His grounds for believing this are
+      of such nature and weight as to compel him to despise the warning that
+      years are advancing on him, and his former iron constitution is failing.
+      He believes his speculations on this point will be verified; he believes
+      he is strong enough to pursue his explorations until he can return to his
+      country, with the announcement that the Lualaba is none other than the
+      Nile.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On discovering that the insignificant stream called the Chambezi, which
+      rises between 10 degrees S. and 12 degrees S., flowed westerly, and then
+      northerly through several lakes, now under the names of the Chambezi, then
+      as the Luapula, and then as the Lualaba, and that it still continued its
+      flow towards the north for over 7 degrees, Livingstone became firmly of
+      the opinion that the river whose current he followed was the Egyptian
+      Nile. Failing at lat. 4 degrees S. to pursue his explorations further
+      without additional supplies, he determined to return to Ujiji to obtain
+      them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      And now, having obtained them, he intends to return to the point where he
+      left off work. He means to follow that great river until it is firmly
+      established what name shall eventually be given the noble water-way whose
+      course he has followed through so many sick toilings and difficulties. To
+      all entreaties to come home, to all the glowing temptations which home and
+      innumerable friends offer, he returns the determined answer:&mdash;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "No; not until my work is ended."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have often heard our servants discuss our respective merits. "Your
+      master," say my servants to Livingstone's, "is a good man&mdash;a very
+      good man; he does not beat you, for he has a kind heart; but ours&mdash;oh!
+      he is sharp&mdash;hot as fire"&mdash;"mkali sana, kana moto." From being
+      hated and thwarted in every possible way by the Arabs and half-castes upon
+      first arrival in Ujiji, he has, through his uniform kindness and mild,
+      pleasant temper, won all hearts. I observed that universal respect was
+      paid to him. Even the Mohammedans never passed his house without calling
+      to pay their compliments, and to say, "The blessing of God rest on you."
+      Each Sunday morning he gathers his little flock around him, and reads
+      prayers and a chapter from the Bible, in a natural, unaffected, and
+      sincere tone; and afterwards delivers a short address in the Kisawahili
+      language, about the subject read to them, which is listened to with
+      interest and attention.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There is another point in Livingstone's character about which readers of
+      his books, and students of his travels, would like to know, and that is
+      his ability to withstand the dreadful climate of Central Africa, and the
+      consistent energy with which he follows up his explorations. His
+      consistent energy is native to him and to his race. He is a very fine
+      example of the perseverance, doggedness, and tenacity which characterise
+      the Anglo-Saxon spirit; but his ability to withstand the climate is due
+      not only to the happy constitution with which he was born, but to the
+      strictly temperate life he has ever led. A drunkard and a man of vicious
+      habits could never have withstood the climate of Central Africa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The second day after my arrival in Ujiji I asked the Doctor if he did not
+      feel a desire, sometimes, to visit his country, and take a little rest
+      after his six years' explorations; and the answer he gave me fully reveals
+      the man. Said he:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I should like very much to go home and see my children once again, but I
+      cannot bring my heart to abandon the task I have undertaken, when it is so
+      nearly completed. It only requires six or seven months more to trace the
+      true source that I have discovered with Petherick's branch of the White
+      Nile, or with the Albert N'Yanza of Sir Samuel Baker, which is the lake
+      called by the natives 'Chowambe.' Why should I go home before my task is
+      ended, to have to come back again to do what I can very well do now?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "And why?" I asked, "did you come so far back without finishing the task
+      which you say you have got to do?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Simply because I was forced. My men would not budge a step forward. They
+      mutinied, and formed a secret resolution&mdash;if I still insisted upon
+      going on&mdash;to raise a disturbance in the country, and after they had
+      effected it to abandon me; in which case I should have been killed. It was
+      dangerous to go any further. I had explored six hundred miles of the
+      watershed, had traced all the principal streams which discharge their
+      waters into the central line of drainage, but when about starting to
+      explore the last hundred miles the hearts of my people failed them, and
+      they set about frustrating me in every possible way. Now, having returned
+      seven hundred miles to get a new supply of stores, and another escort, I
+      find myself destitute of even the means to live but for a few weeks, and
+      sick in mind and body."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here I may pause to ask any brave man how he would have comported himself
+      in such a crisis. Many would have been in exceeding hurry to get home to
+      tell the news of the continued explorations and discoveries, and to
+      relieve the anxiety of the sorrowing family and friends awaiting their
+      return. Enough surely had been accomplished towards the solution of the
+      problem that had exercised the minds of his scientific associates of the
+      Royal Geograpical Society. It was no negative exploration, it was hard,
+      earnest labor of years, self-abnegation, enduring patience, and exalted
+      fortitude, such as ordinary men fail to exhibit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Suppose Livingstone had hurried to the coast after he had discovered Lake
+      Bangweolo, to tell the news to the geographical world; then had returned
+      to discover Moero, and run away again; then went back once more only to
+      discover Kamolondo, and to race back again. This would not be in
+      accordance with Livingstone's character. He must not only discover the
+      Chambezi, Lake Bangweolo, Luapula River, Lake Moero, Lualaba River, and
+      Lake Kamolondo, but he must still tirelessly urge his steps forward to put
+      the final completion to the grand lacustrine river system. Had he followed
+      the example of ordinary explorers, he would have been running backwards
+      and forwards to tell the news, instead of exploring; and he might have
+      been able to write a volume upon the discovery of each lake, and earn much
+      money thereby. They are no few months' explorations that form the contents
+      of his books. His 'Missionary Travels' embraces a period of sixteen years;
+      his book on the Zambezi, five years; and if the great traveller lives to
+      come home, his third book, the grandest of all, must contain the records
+      of eight or nine years.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is a principle with Livingstone to do well what he undertakes to do;
+      and in the consciousness that he is doing it, despite the yearning for his
+      home which is sometimes overpowering, he finds, to a certain extent,
+      contentment, if not happiness. To men differently constituted, a long
+      residence amongst the savages of Africa would be contemplated with horror,
+      yet Livingstone's mind can find pleasure and food for philosophic studies.
+      The wonders of primeval nature, the great forests and sublime mountains,
+      the perennial streams and sources of the great lakes, the marvels of the
+      earth, the splendors of the tropic sky by day and by night&mdash;all
+      terrestrial and celestial phenomena are manna to a man of such
+      self-abnegation and devoted philanthropic spirit. He can be charmed with
+      the primitive simplicity of Ethiop's dusky children, with whom he has
+      spent so many years of his life; he has a sturdy faith in their
+      capabilities; sees virtue in them where others see nothing but savagery;
+      and wherever he has gone among them, he has sought to elevate a people
+      that were apparently forgotten of God and Christian man.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One night I took out my note-book, and prepared to take down from his own
+      lips what he had to say about his travels; and unhesitatingly he related
+      his experiences, of which the following is a summary:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Dr. David Livingstone left the Island of Zanzibar in March, 1866. On the
+      7th of the following month he departed from Mikindany Bay for the
+      interior, with an expedition consisting of twelve Sepoys from Bombay, nine
+      men from Johanna, of the Comoro Islands, seven liberated slaves, and two
+      Zambezi men, taking them as an experiment; six camels, three buffaloes,
+      two mules, and three donkeys. He had thus thirty men with him, twelve of
+      whom, viz., the Sepoys, were to act as guards for the Expedition. They
+      were mostly armed with the Enfield rifles presented to the Doctor by the
+      Bombay Government. The baggage of the expedition consisted of ten bales of
+      cloth and two bags of beads, which were to serve as the currency by which
+      they would be enabled to purchase the necessaries of life in the countries
+      the Doctor intended to visit. Besides the cumbrous moneys, they carried
+      several boxes of instruments, such as chronometers, air thermometers,
+      sextant, and artificial horizon, boxes containing clothes, medicines, and
+      personal necessaries. The expedition travelled up the left bank of the
+      Rovuma River, a route as full of difficulties as any that could be chosen.
+      For miles Livingstone and his party had to cut their way with their axes
+      through the dense and almost impenetrable jungles which lined the river's
+      banks. The road was a mere footpath, leading in the most erratic fashion
+      into and through the dense vegetation, seeking the easiest outlet from it
+      without any regard to the course it ran. The pagazis were able to proceed
+      easily enough; but the camels, on account of their enormous height, could
+      not advance a step without the axes of the party clearing the way. These
+      tools of foresters were almost always required; but the advance of the
+      expedition was often retarded by the unwillingness of the Sepoys and
+      Johanna men to work.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Soon after the departure of the expedition from the coast, the murmurings
+      and complaints of these men began, and upon every occasion and at every
+      opportunity they evinced a decided hostility to an advance. In order to
+      prevent the progress of the Doctor, and in hopes that it would compel him
+      to return to the coast, these men so cruelly treated the animals that
+      before long there was not one left alive. But as this scheme failed, they
+      set about instigating the natives against the white men, whom they accused
+      most wantonly of strange practices. As this plan was most likely to
+      succeed, and as it was dangerous to have such men with him, the Doctor
+      arrived at the conclusion that it was best to discharge them, and
+      accordingly sent the Sepoys back to the coast; but not without having
+      first furnished them with the means of subsistence on their journey to the
+      coast. These men were such a disreputable set that the natives spoke of
+      them as the Doctor's slaves. One of their worst sins was the custom of
+      giving their guns and ammunition to carry to the first woman or boy they
+      met, whom they impressed for that purpose by such threats or promises as
+      they were totally unable to perform, and unwarranted in making. An hour's
+      marching was sufficient to fatigue them, after which they lay down on the
+      road to bewail their hard fate, and concoct new schemes to frustrate their
+      leader's purposes. Towards night they generally made their appearance at
+      the camping-ground with the looks of half-dead men. Such men naturally
+      made but a poor escort; for, had the party been attacked by a wandering
+      tribe of natives of any strength, the Doctor could have made no defence,
+      and no other alternative would have been left to him but to surrender and
+      be ruined.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Doctor and his little party arrived on the 18th July, 1866, at a
+      village belonging to a chief of the Wahiyou, situate eight days' march
+      south of the Rovuma, and overlooking the watershed of the Lake Nyassa. The
+      territory lying between the Rovuma River and this Wahiyou village was an
+      uninhabited wilderness, during the transit of which Livingstone and his
+      expedition suffered considerably from hunger and desertion of men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Early in August, 1866, the Doctor came to the country of Mponda, a chief
+      who dwelt near the Lake Nyassa. On the road thither, two of the liberated
+      slaves deserted him. Here also, Wekotani, a protege of the Doctor,
+      insisted upon his discharge, alleging as an excuse&mdash;an excuse which
+      the Doctor subsequently found to be untrue&mdash;that he had found his
+      brother. He also stated that his family lived on the east side of the
+      Nyassa Lake. He further stated that Mponda's favourite wife was his
+      sister. Perceiving that Wekotani was unwilling to go with him further, the
+      Doctor took him to Mponda, who now saw and heard of him for the first
+      time, and, having furnished the ungrateful boy with enough cloth and beads
+      to keep him until his "big brother" should call for him, left him with the
+      chief, after first assuring himself that he would receive honourable
+      treatment from him. The Doctor also gave Wekotanti writing-paper&mdash;as
+      he could read and write, being accomplishments acquired at Bombay, where
+      he had been put to school&mdash;so that, should he at any time feel
+      disposed, he might write to his English friends, or to himself. The Doctor
+      further enjoined him not to join in any of the slave raids usually made by
+      his countrymen, the men of Nyassa, on their neighbours. Upon finding that
+      his application for a discharge was successful, Wekotani endeavoured to
+      induce Chumah, another protege of the Doctor's, and a companion, or chum,
+      of Wekotani, to leave the Doctor's service and proceed with him,
+      promising, as a bribe, a wife and plenty of pombe from his "big brother."
+      Chumah, upon referring the matter to the Doctor, was advised not to go, as
+      he (the Doctor) strongly suspected that Wekotani wanted only to make him
+      his slave. Chumah wisely withdrew from his tempter. From Mponda's, the
+      Doctor proceeded to the heel of the Nyassa, to the village of a Babisa
+      chief, who required medicine for a skin disease. With his usual kindness,
+      he stayed at this chief's village to treat his malady.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While here, a half-caste Arab arrived from the western shore of the lake,
+      and reported that he had been plundered by a band of Mazitu, at a place
+      which the Doctor and Musa, chief of the Johanna men, were very well aware
+      was at least 150 miles north-north-west of where they were then stopping.
+      Musa, however, for his own reasons&mdash;which will appear presently&mdash;eagerly
+      listened to the Arab's tale, and gave full credence to it. Having well
+      digested its horrible details, he came to the Doctor to give him the full
+      benefit of what he had heard with such willing ears. The traveller
+      patiently listened to the narrative, which lost nothing of its portentous
+      significance through Musa's relation, and then asked Musa if he believed
+      it. "Yes," answered Musa, readily; "he tell me true, true. I ask him good,
+      and he tell me true, true." The Doctor, however, said he did not believe
+      it, for the Mazitu would not have been satisfied with merely plundering a
+      man, they would have murdered him; but suggested, in order to allay the
+      fears of his Moslem subordinate, that they should both proceed to the
+      chief with whom they were staying, who, being a sensible man, would be
+      able to advise them as to the probability or improbability of the tale
+      being correct. Together, they proceeded to the Babisa chief, who, when he
+      had heard the Arab's story, unhesitatingly denounced the Arab as a liar,
+      and his story without the least foundation in fact; giving as a reason
+      that, if the Mazitu had been lately in that vicinity, he should have heard
+      of it soon enough.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But Musa broke out with "No, no, Doctor; no, no, no; I no want to go to
+      Mazitu. I no want Mazitu to kill me. I want to see my father, my mother,
+      my child, in Johanna. I want no Mazitu." These are Musa's words <i>ipsissima
+      verba</i>.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To which the Doctor replied, "I don't want the Mazitu to kill me either;
+      but, as you are afraid of them, I promise to go straight west until we get
+      far past the beat of the Mazitu."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Musa was not satisfied, but kept moaning and sorrowing, saying, "If we had
+      two hundred guns with us I would go; but our small party of men they will
+      attack by night, and kill all."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Doctor repeated his promise, "But I will not go near them; I will go
+      west."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As soon as he turned his face westward, Musa and the Johanna men ran away
+      in a body.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Doctor says, in commenting upon Musa's conduct, that he felt strongly
+      tempted to shoot Musa and another ringleader, but was, nevertheless, glad
+      that he did not soil his hands with their vile blood. A day or two
+      afterwards, another of his men&mdash;Simon Price by name&mdash;came to the
+      Doctor with the same tale about the Mazitu, but, compelled by the scant
+      number of his people to repress all such tendencies to desertion and
+      faint-heartedness, the Doctor silenced him at once, and sternly forbade
+      him to utter the name of the Mazitu any more.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Had the natives not assisted him, he must have despaired of ever being
+      able to penetrate the wild and unexplored interior which he was now about
+      to tread. "Fortunately," as the Doctor says with unction, "I was in a
+      country now, after leaving the shores of Nyassa, which the foot of the
+      slave-trader has not trod; it was a new and virgin land, and of course, as
+      I have always found in such cases, the natives were really good and
+      hospitable, and for very small portions of cloth my baggage was conveyed
+      from village to village by them." In many other ways the traveller, in his
+      extremity, was kindly treated by the yet unsophisticated and innocent
+      natives.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On leaving this hospitable region in the early part of December, 1866, the
+      Doctor entered a country where the Mazitu had exercised their customary
+      marauding propensities. The land was swept clean of provisions and cattle,
+      and the people had emigrated to other countries, beyond the bounds of
+      those ferocious plunderers. Again the Expedition was besieged by pinching
+      hunger from which they suffered; they had recourse to the wild fruits
+      which some parts of the country furnished. At intervals the condition of
+      the hard-pressed band was made worse by the heartless desertion of some of
+      its members, who more than once departed with the Doctor's personal kit,
+      changes of clothes, linen, &amp;c. With more or less misfortunes
+      constantly dogging his footsteps, he traversed in safety the countries of
+      the Babisa, Bobemba, Barungu, Ba-ulungu, and Lunda.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the country of Lunda lives the famous Cazembe, who was first made known
+      to Europeans by Dr. Lacerda, the Portuguese traveller. Cazembe is a most
+      intelligent prince; he is a tall, stalwart man, who wears a peculiar kind
+      of dress, made of crimson print, in the form of a prodigious kilt. In this
+      state dress, King Cazembe received Dr. Livingstone, surrounded by his
+      chiefs and body-guards. A chief, who had been deputed by the King and
+      elders to discover all about the white man, then stood up before the
+      assembly, and in a loud voice gave the result of the inquiry he had
+      instituted. He had heard that the white man had come to look for waters,
+      for rivers, and seas; though he could not understand what the white man
+      could want with such things, he had no doubt that the object was good.
+      Then Cazembe asked what the Doctor proposed doing, and where he thought of
+      going. The Doctor replied that he had thought of proceeding south, as he
+      had heard of lakes and rivers being in that direction. Cazembe asked,
+      "What can you want to go there for? The water is close here. There is
+      plenty of large water in this neighbourhood." Before breaking up the
+      assembly, Cazembe gave orders to let the white man go where he would
+      through his country undisturbed and unmolested. He was the first
+      Englishman he had seen, he said, and he liked him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Shortly after his introduction to the King, the Queen entered the large
+      house, surrounded by a body-guard of Amazons with spears. She was a fine,
+      tall, handsome young woman, and evidently thought she was about to make an
+      impression upon the rustic white man, for she had clothed herself after a
+      most royal fashion, and was armed with a ponderous spear. But her
+      appearance&mdash;so different from what the Doctor had imagined&mdash;caused
+      him to laugh, which entirely spoiled the effect intended; for the laugh of
+      the Doctor was so contagious, that she herself was the first to imitate
+      it, and the Amazons, courtier-like, followed suit. Much disconcerted by
+      this, the Queen ran back, followed by her obedient damsels&mdash;a retreat
+      most undignified and unqueenlike, compared with her majestic advent into
+      the Doctor's presence. But Livingstone will have much to say about his
+      reception at this court, and about this interesting King and Queen; and
+      who can so well relate the scenes he witnessed, and which belong
+      exclusively to him, as he himself?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Soon after his arrival in the country of Lunda, or Londa, and before he
+      had entered the district ruled over by Cazembe, he had crossed a river
+      called the Chambezi, which was quite an important stream. The similarity
+      of the name with that large and noble river south, which will be for ever
+      connected with his name, misled Livingstone at that time, and he,
+      accordingly, did not pay to it the attention it deserved, believing that
+      the Chambezi was but the head-waters of the Zambezi, and consequently had
+      no bearing or connection with the sources of the river of Egypt, of which
+      he was in search. His fault was in relying too implicitly upon the
+      correctness of Portuguese information. This error it cost him many months
+      of tedious labour and travel to rectify.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From the beginning of 1867&mdash;the time of his arrival at Cazembe's&mdash;till
+      the middle of March, 1869&mdash;the time of his arrival at Ujiji&mdash;he
+      was mostly engaged in correcting the errors and misrepresentations of the
+      Portuguese travellers. The Portuguese, in speaking of the River Chambezi,
+      invariably spoke of it as "our own Zambezi,"&mdash;that is, the Zambezi
+      which flows through the Portuguese possessions of the Mozambique. "In
+      going to Cazembe from Nyassa," said they, "you will cross our own
+      Zambezi." Such positive and reiterated information&mdash;given not only
+      orally, but in their books and maps&mdash;was naturally confusing. When
+      the Doctor perceived that what he saw and what they described were at
+      variance, out of a sincere wish to be correct, and lest he might have been
+      mistaken himself, he started to retravel the ground he had travelled
+      before. Over and over again he traversed the several countries watered by
+      the several rivers of the complicated water system, like an uneasy spirit.
+      Over and over again he asked the same questions from the different peoples
+      he met, until he was obliged to desist, lest they might say, "The man is
+      mad; he has got water on the brain!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But his travels and tedious labours in Lunda and the adjacent countries
+      have established beyond doubt&mdash;first, that the Chambezi is a totally
+      distinct river from the Zambezi of the Portuguese; and, secondly, that the
+      Chambezi, starting from about latitude 11 degrees south, is no other than
+      the most southerly feeder of the great Nile; thus giving that famous river
+      a length of over 2,000 miles of direct latitude; making it, second to the
+      Mississippi, the longest river in the world. The real and true name of the
+      Zambezi is Dombazi. When Lacerda and his Portuguese successors, coming to
+      Cazembe, crossed the Chambezi, and heard its name, they very naturally set
+      it down as "our own Zambezi," and, without further inquiry, sketched it as
+      running in that direction.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During his researches in that region, so pregnant in discoveries,
+      Livingstone came to a lake lying north-east of Cazembe, which the natives
+      call Liemba, from the country of that name which bordered it on the east
+      and south. In tracing the lake north, he found it to be none other than
+      the Tanganika, or the south-eastern extremity of it, which looks, on the
+      Doctor's map, very much like an outline of Italy. The latitude of the
+      southern end of this great body of water is about 8 degrees 42 minutes
+      south, which thus gives it a length, from north to south, of 360
+      geographical miles. From the southern extremity of the Tanganika he
+      crossed Marungu, and came in sight of Lake Moero. Tracing this lake, which
+      is about sixty miles in length, to its southern head, he found a river,
+      called the Luapula, entering it from that direction. Following the Luapula
+      south, he found it issue from the large lake of Bangweolo, which is nearly
+      as large in superficial area as the Tanganika. In exploring for the waters
+      which discharged themselves into the lake, he found that by far the most
+      important of these feeders was the Chambezi; so that he had thus traced
+      the Chambezi from its source to Lake Bangweolo, and the issue from its
+      northern head, under the name of Luapula, and found it enter Lake Moero.
+      Again he returned to Cazembe's, well satisfied that the river running
+      north through three degrees of latitude could not be the river running
+      south under the name of Zambezi, though there might be a remarkable
+      resemblance in their names.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Cazembe's he found an old white-bearded half-caste named Mohammed bin
+      Sali, who was kept as a kind of prisoner at large by the King because of
+      certain suspicious circumstances attending his advent and stay in the
+      country. Through Livingstone's influence Mohammed bin Sali obtained his
+      release. On the road to Ujiji he had bitter cause to regret having exerted
+      himself in the half-caste's behalf. He turned out to be a most ungrateful
+      wretch, who poisoned the minds of the Doctor's few followers, and
+      ingratiated himself with them by selling the favours of his concubines to
+      them, by which he reduced them to a kind of bondage under him. The Doctor
+      was deserted by all but two, even faithful Susi and Chumah deserted him
+      for the service of Mohammed bin Sali. But they soon repented, and returned
+      to their allegiance. From the day he had the vile old man in his company
+      manifold and bitter misfortunes followed the Doctor up to his arrival at
+      Ujiji in March, 1869.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From the date of his arrival until the end of June, 1869, he remained at
+      Ujiji, whence he dated those letters which, though the outside world still
+      doubted his being alive, satisfied the minds of the Royal Geographical
+      people, and his intimate friends, that he still existed, and that Musa'a
+      tale was the false though ingenious fabrication of a cowardly deserter. It
+      was during this time that the thought occurred to him of sailing around
+      the Lake Tanganika, but the Arabs and natives were so bent upon fleecing
+      him that, had he undertaken it, the remainder or his goods would not have
+      enabled him to explore the central line of drainage, the initial point of
+      which he found far south of Cazembe's in about latitude 11 degrees, in the
+      river called Chambezi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the days when tired Captain Burton was resting in Ujiji, after his
+      march from the coast near Zanzibar, the land to which Livingstone, on his
+      departure from Ujiji, bent his steps was unknown to the Arabs save by
+      vague report. Messrs. Burton and Speke never heard of it, it seems. Speke,
+      who was the geographer of Burton's Expedition, heard of a place called
+      Urua, which he placed on his map, according to the general direction
+      indicated by the Arabs; but the most enterprising of the Arabs, in their
+      search after ivory, only touched the frontiers of Rua, as, the natives and
+      Livingstone call it; for Rua is an immense country, with a length of six
+      degrees of latitude, and as yet an undefined breadth from east to west.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the end of June, 1869, Livingstone quitted Ujiji and crossed over to
+      Uguhha, on the western shore, for his last and greatest series of
+      explorations; the result of which was the further discovery of a lake of
+      considerable magnitude connected with Moero by the large river called the
+      Lualaba, and which was a continuation of the chain of lakes he had
+      previously discovered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From the port of Uguhha he set off, in company with a body of traders, in
+      an almost direct westerly course, for the country of Urua. Fifteen days'
+      march brought them to Bambarre, the first important ivory depot in
+      Manyema, or, as the natives pronounce it, Manyuema. For nearly six months
+      he was detained at Bambarre from ulcers in the feet, which discharged
+      bloody ichor as soon as he set them on the ground. When recovered, he set
+      off in a northerly direction, and after several days came to a broad
+      lacustrine river, called the Lualaba, flowing northward and westward, and
+      in some places southward, in a most confusing way. The river was from one
+      to three miles broad. By exceeding pertinacity he contrived to follow its
+      erratic course, until he saw the Lualaba enter the narrow, long lake of
+      Kamolondo, in about latitude 6 degrees 30 minutes. Retracing this to the
+      south, he came to the point where he had seen the Luapula enter Lake
+      Moero.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One feels quite enthusiastic when listening to Livingstone's description
+      of the beauties of Moero scenery. Pent in on all sides by high mountains,
+      clothed to the edges with the rich vegetation of the tropics, the Moero
+      discharges its superfluous waters through a deep rent in the bosom of the
+      mountains. The impetuous and grand river roars through the chasm with the
+      thunder of a cataract, but soon after leaving its confined and deep bed it
+      expands into the calm and broad Lualaba, stretching over miles of ground.
+      After making great bends west and south-west, and then curving northward,
+      it enters Kamolondo. By the natives it is called the Lualaba, but the
+      Doctor, in order to distinguish it from other rivers of the same name, has
+      given it the name of "Webb's River," after Mr. Webb, the wealthy
+      proprietor of Newstead Abbey, whom the Doctor distinguishes as one of his
+      oldest and most consistent friends. Away to the south-west from Kamolondo
+      is another large lake, which discharges its waters by the important River
+      Loeki, or Lomami, into the great Lualaba. To this lake, known as Chebungo
+      by the natives, Dr. Livingstone has given the name of "Lincoln," to be
+      hereafter distinguished on maps and in books as Lake Lincoln, in memory of
+      Abraham Lincoln, our murdered President. This was done from the vivid
+      impression produced on his mind by hearing a portion of his inauguration
+      speech read from an English pulpit, which related to the causes that
+      induced him to issue his Emancipation Proclamation, by which memorable
+      deed 4,000,000 of slaves were for ever freed. To the memory of the man
+      whose labours on behalf of the negro race deserves the commendation of all
+      good men, Livingstone has contributed a monument more durable than brass
+      or stone.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Entering Webb's River from the south-south-west, a little north of
+      Kamolondo, is a large river called Lufira, but the streams, that discharge
+      themselves from the watershed into the Lualaba are so numerous that the
+      Doctor's map would not contain them, so he has left all out except the
+      most important. Continuing his way north, tracing the Lualaba through its
+      manifold and crooked curves as far as latitude 4 degrees south, he came to
+      where he heard of another lake, to the north, into which it ran. But here
+      you may come to a dead halt, and read what lies beyond this spot thus....
+      This was the furthermost point, whence he was compelled to return on the
+      weary road to Ujiji, a distance of 700 miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this brief sketch of Dr. Livingstone's wonderful travels it is to be
+      hoped the most superficial reader, as well as the student of geography,
+      comprehends this grand system of lakes connected together by Webb's River.
+      To assist him, let him glance at the map accompanying this book. He will
+      then have a fair idea of what Dr. Livingstone has been doing during these
+      long years, and what additions he has made to the study of African
+      geography. That this river, distinguished under several titles, flowing
+      from one lake into another in a northerly direction, with all its great
+      crooked bends and sinuosities, is the Nile&mdash;the true Nile&mdash;the
+      Doctor has not the least doubt. For a long time he entertained great
+      scepticism, because of its deep bends and curves west, and south-west
+      even; but having traced it from its head waters, the Chambezi, through 7
+      degrees of latitude&mdash;that is, from 11 degrees S. to lat. 4 degrees N.&mdash;he
+      has been compelled to come to the conclusion that it can be no other river
+      than the Nile. He had thought it was the Congo; but has discovered the
+      sources of the Congo to be the Kassai and the Kwango, two rivers which
+      rise on the western side of the Nile watershed, in about the latitude of
+      Bangweolo; and he was told of another river called the Lubilash, which
+      rose from the north, and ran west. But the Lualaba, the Doctor thinks,
+      cannot be the Congo, from its great size and body, and from its steady and
+      continued flow northward through a broad and extensive valley, bounded by
+      enormous mountains westerly and easterly. The altitude of the most
+      northerly point to which the Doctor traced the wonderful river was a
+      little in excess of 2,000 feet; so that, though Baker makes out his lake
+      to be 2,700 feet above the sea, yet the Bahr Ghazal, through which
+      Petherick's branch of the White Nile issues into the Nile, is but 2,000
+      feet; in which case there is a possibility that the Lualaba may be none
+      other than Petherick's branch.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is well known that trading stations for ivory have been established for
+      about 500 miles up Petherick's branch. We must remember this fact when
+      told that Gondokoro, in lat. 4 degrees N., is 2,000 feet above the sea,
+      and lat. 4 degrees S., where the halt was made, is only a little over
+      2,000 feet above the sea. That the two rivers said to be 2,000 feet above
+      the sea, separated from each other by 8 degrees of latitude, are one and
+      the same river, may among some men be regarded as a startling statement.
+      But we must restrain mere expressions of surprise, and take into
+      consideration that this mighty and broad Lualaba is a lacustrine river
+      broader than the Mississippi; that at intervals the body of water forms
+      extensive lakes; then, contracting into a broad river, it again forms a
+      lake, and so on, to lat. 4 degrees; and even beyond this point the Doctor
+      hears of a large lake again north.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We must wait also until the altitudes of the two rivers, the Lualaba,
+      where the Doctor halted, and the southern point on the Bahr Ghazal, where
+      Petherick has been, are known with perfect accuracy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now, for the sake of argument, suppose we give this nameless lake a length
+      of 6 degrees of latitude, as it may be the one discovered by Piaggia, the
+      Italian traveller, from which Petherick's branch of the White Nile issues
+      out through reedy marshes, into the Bahr Ghazal, thence into the White
+      Nile, south of Gondokoro. By this method we can suppose the rivers one;
+      for if the lake extends over so many degrees of latitude, the necessity of
+      explaining the differences of altitude that must naturally exist between
+      two points of a river 8 degrees of latitude apart, would be obviated.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Also, Livingstone's instruments for observation and taking altitudes may
+      have been in error; and this is very likely to have been the case,
+      subjected as they have been to rough handling during nearly six years of
+      travel. Despite the apparent difficulty of the altitude, there is another
+      strong reason for believing Webb's River, or the Lualaba, to be the Nile.
+      The watershed of this river, 600 miles of which Livingstone has travelled,
+      is drained from a valley which lies north and south between lofty eastern
+      and western ranges.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This valley, or line of drainage, while it does not receive the Kassai and
+      the Kwango, receives rivers flowing from a great distance west, for
+      instance, the important tributaries Lufira and Lomami, and large rivers
+      from the east, such as the Lindi and Luamo; and, while the most
+      intelligent Portuguese travellers and traders state that the Kassai, the
+      Kwango, and Lubilash are the head waters of the Congo River, no one has
+      yet started the supposition that the grand river flowing north, and known
+      by the natives as the Lualaba, is the Congo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This river may be the Congo, or, perhaps, the Niger. If the Lualaba is
+      only 2,000 feet above the sea, and the Albert N'Yanza 2,700 feet, the
+      Lualaba cannot enter that lake. If the Bahr Ghazal does not extend by an
+      arm for eight degrees above Gondokoro, then the Lualaba cannot be the
+      Nile. But it would be premature to dogmatise on the subject. Livingstone
+      will clear up the point himself; and if he finds it to be the Congo, will
+      be the first to admit his error.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Livingstone admits the Nile sources have not been found, though he has
+      traced the Lualaba through seven degrees of latitude flowing north; and,
+      though he has not a particle of doubt of its being the Nile, not yet can
+      the Nile question be said to be resolved and ended. For two reasons:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1. He has heard of the existence of four fountains, two of which gave
+      birth to a river flowing north, Webb's River, or the Lualaba, and to a
+      river flowing south, which is the Zambezi. He has repeatedly heard of
+      these fountains from the natives. Several times he has been within 100 and
+      200 miles from them, but something always interposed to prevent his going
+      to see them. According to those who have seen them, they rise on either
+      side of a mound or level, which contains no stones. Some have called it an
+      ant-hill. One of these fountains is said to be so large that a man,
+      standing on one side, cannot be seen from the other. These fountains must
+      be discovered, and their position taken. The Doctor does not suppose them
+      to be south of the feeders of Lake Bangweolo. In his letter to the
+      'Herald' he says "These four full-grown gushing fountains, rising so near
+      each other, and giving origin to four large rivers, answer in a certain
+      degree to the description given of the unfathomable fountains of the Nile,
+      by the secretary of Minerva, in the city of Sais, in Egypt, to the father
+      of all travellers&mdash;Herodotus."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For the information of such readers as may not have the original at hand,
+      I append the following from Cary's translation of Herodotus: (II.28)
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      (Jul 2001 The History of Herodotus V1 by Herodotus; Macaulay)
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+***  With respect to the sources of the Nile, no man of all the
+  Egyptians, Libyans, or Grecians, with whom I have conversed,
+  ever pretended to know anything, except the registrar* of Minerva's
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      *the secretary of the treasury of the goddess Neith, or Athena as
+      Herodotus calls her: ho grammatiste:s to:n hiro:n xre:mato:n te:s
+      Athe:naie:s>
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  treasury at Sais, in Egypt.  He, indeed, seemed to be trifling
+  with me when he said he knew perfectly well; yet his account was
+  as follows: "That there are two mountains, rising into a sharp
+  peak, situated between the city of Syene, in Thebais, and
+  Elephantine.  The names of these mountains are the one Crophi,
+  the other Mophi; that the sources of the Nile, which are bottomless,
+  flow from between these mountains and that half of the water flows
+  over Egypt and to the north, the other half over Ethiopia and the
+  south.  That the fountains of the Nile are bottomless, he said,
+  Psammitichus, king of Egypt, proved by experiment: for, having
+  caused a line to be twisted many thousand fathoms in length, he
+  let it down, but could not find a bottom."  Such, then, was the
+  opinion the registrar gave, if, indeed, he spoke the real truth;
+  proving, in my opinion, that there are strong whirlpools and an
+  eddy here, so that the water beating against the rocks, a
+  sounding-line, when let down, cannot reach the bottom.  I was
+  unable to learn anything more from any one else.  But thus much
+  I learnt by carrying my researches as far as possible, having gone
+  and made my own observations as far as Elephantine, and beyond
+  that obtaining information from hearsay.  As one ascends the river,
+  above the city of Elephantine, the country is steep; here,
+  therefore; it is necessary to attach a rope on both sides of a boat,
+  as one does with an ox in a plough, and so proceed; but if
+  the rope should happen to break, the boat is carried away by the
+  force of the stream.  This kind of country lasts for a four-days'
+  passage, and the Nile here winds as much as the Maeander.  There
+  are twelve schoeni, which it is necessary to sail through in
+  this manner; and after that you will come to a level plain, where
+  the Nile flows round an island; its name is Tachompso.  Ethiopians
+  inhabit the country immediately above Elephantine, and one half
+  of the island; the other half is inhabited by Egyptians.  Near to
+  this island lies a vast lake, on the borders of which Ethiopian
+  nomades dwell.  After sailing through this lake you will come to
+  the channel of the Nile, which flows into it: then you will have
+  to land and travel forty days by the side of the river, for sharp
+  rocks rise in the Nile, and there are many sunken ones, through
+  which it is not possible to navigate a boat.  Having passed this
+  country in the forty days, you must go on board another boat, and
+  sail for twelve days; and then you will arrive at a large city,
+  called Meroe; this city is said to be the capital of all
+  Ethiopia.  The inhabitants worship no other gods than Jupiter and
+  Bacchus; but these they honour with great magnificence.  They
+  have also an oracle of Jupiter; and they make war whenever that
+  god bids them by an oracular warning, and against whatever
+  country he bids them.  Sailing from this city, you will arrive at
+  the country of the Automoli, in a space of time equal to that
+  which you took in coming from Elephantine to the capital of the
+  Ethiopians.  These Automoli are called by the name of Asmak,
+  which, in the language of Greece, signifies "those that stand at
+  the left hand of the king."  These, to the number of two hundred and
+  forty thousand of the Egyptian war-tribe, revolted to the
+  Ethiopians on the following occasion.  In the reign of King
+  Psammitichus garrisons were stationed at Elephantine against the
+  Ethiopians, and another at the Pelusian Daphnae against the
+  Arabians and Syrians, and another at Marea against Libya; and even
+  in my time garrisons of the Persians are stationed in the same
+  places as they were in the time of Psammitichus, for they
+  maintain guards at Elephantine and Daphnae.  Now, these Egyptians,
+  after they had been on duty three years, were not relieved;
+  therefore, having consulted together and come to an unanimous
+  resolution, they all revolted from Psammitichus, and went to
+  Ethiopia.  Psammitichus, hearing of this, pursued them; and when
+  he overtook them he entreated them by many arguments, and adjured
+  them not to forsake the gods of their fathers, and their
+  children and wives But one of them is reported to have uncovered
+  [        ] and to have said, that wheresoever these were there they
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      ["which it is said that one of them pointed to his privy member and said
+      that wherever this was, there would they have both children and wives"&mdash;Macaulay
+      tr.; published edition censors]
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  should find both children and wives."  These men, when they arrived
+  in Ethiopia, offered their services to the king of the Ethiopians,
+  who made them the following recompense.  There were certain
+  Ethiopians disaffected towards him; these he bade them expel,
+  and take possession of their land.  By the settlement of these men
+  among the Ethiopians, the Ethiopians became more civilized, and
+  learned the manners of the Egyptians.
+
+  Now, for a voyage and land journey of four months, the Nile is
+  known, in addition to the part f the stream that is in Egypt; for,
+  upon computation, so many months are known to be spent by a
+  person who travels from Elephantine to the Automoli.  This river
+  flows from the west and the setting of the sun; but beyond this no
+  one is able to speak with certainty, for the rest of the country
+  is desert by reason of the excessive heat.  But I have heard the
+  following account from certain Cyrenaeans, who say that they went
+  to the oracle of Ammon, and had a conversation with Etearchus, King
+  of the Ammonians, and that, among other subjects, they happened to
+  discourse about the Nile&mdash;that nobody knew its sources; whereupon
+  Etearchus said that certain Nasamonians once came to him&mdash;this
+  nation is Lybian, and inhabits the Syrtis, and the country for no
+  great distance eastward of the Syrtis&mdash;and that when these
+  Nasamonians arrived, and were asked if they could give any
+  further formation touching the deserts of Libya, they answered,
+  that there were some daring youths amongst them, sons of powerful
+  men; and that they, having reached man's estate, formed many
+  other extravagant plans, and, moreover, chose five of their number
+  by lot to explore the deserts of Libya, to see if they could make
+  any further discovery than those who had penetrated the farthest.
+  (For, as respects the parts of Libya along the Northern Sea,
+  beginning from Egypt to the promontory of Solois, where is the
+  extremity of Libya, Libyans and various nations of Libyans reach
+  all along it, except those parts which are occupied by Grecians
+  and Phoenicians; but as respects the parts above the sea, and
+  those nations which reach down to the sea, in the upper parts
+  Libya is infested by wild beasts; and all beyond that is sand,
+  dreadfully short of water, and utterly desolate.)  They further
+  related, "that when the young men deputed by their companions
+  set out, well furnished with water and provisions, they passed
+  first through the inhabited country; and having traversed this,
+  they came to the region infested by wild beasts; and after this
+  they crossed the desert, making their way towards the west; and
+  when they had traversed much sandy ground, during a journey of
+  many days, they at length saw some trees growing in a plain; and
+  that they approached and began to gather the fruit that grew on
+  the trees; and while they were gathering, some diminutive men,
+  less than men of middle stature, came up, and having seized them
+  carried them away; and that the Nasamonians did not at all understand
+  their language, nor those who carried them off the language of
+  the Nasamonians.  However, they conducted them through vast
+  morasses, and when they had passed these, they came to a city in
+  which all the inhabitants were of the same size as their conductors,
+  and black in colour: and by the city flowed a great river, running
+  from the west to the east, and that crocodiles were seen in it."
+  Thus far I have set forth the account of Etearchus the Ammonian;
+  to which may be added, as the Cyrenaeans assured me, "that he said
+  the Nasamonians all returned safe to their own country, and that
+  the men whom they came to were all necromancers."  Etearchus also
+  conjectured that this river, which flows by their city, is the Nile;
+  and reason so evinces: for the Nile flows from Libya, and intersects
+  it in the middle; and (as I conjecture, inferring things unknown
+  from things known) it sets out from a point corresponding with the
+  Ister.  For the Ister, beginning from the Celts, and the city of
+  Pyrene, divides Europe in its course; but the Celts are beyond
+  the pillars of Hercules, and border on the territories of the
+  Cynesians, who lie in the extremity of Europe to the westward;
+  and the Ister terminates by flowing through all Europe into the
+  Euxine Sea, where a Milesian colony is settled in Istria.  Now
+  the Ister, as it flows through a well-peopled country, is generally
+  known; but no one is able to speak about the sources of the Nile,
+  because Libya, through which it flows, is uninhabited and desolate.
+  Respecting this stream, therefore, as far as I was able to reach by
+  inquiry, I have already spoken.  It however discharges itself into
+  Egypt; and Egypt lies, as near as may be, opposite to the
+  mountains of Cilicia; from whence to Sinope, on the Euxine Sea,
+  is a five days' journey in a straight line to an active man; and
+  Sinope is opposite to the Ister, where it discharges itself into
+  the sea.  So I think that the Nile, traversing the whole of Libya,
+  may be properly compared with the Ister.  Such, then, is the
+  account that I am able to give respecting the Nile.
+  *** (end of Herodotus's account) ***
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      2. Webb's River must be traced to its connection with some portion of the
+      old Nile.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When these two things have been accomplished, then, and not till then, can
+      the mystery of the Nile be explained. The two countries through which the
+      marvellous lacustrine river, the Lualaba, flows, with its manifold lakes
+      and broad expanse of water, are Rua (the Uruwwa of Speke) and Manyuema.
+      For the first time Europe is made aware that between the Tanganika and the
+      known sources of the Congo there exist teeming millions of the negro race,
+      who never saw, or heard of the white people who make such a noisy and busy
+      stir outside of Africa. Upon the minds of those who had the good fortune
+      to see the first specimen of these remarkable white races in Dr.
+      Livingstone, he seems to have made a favourable impression, though,
+      through misunderstanding his object, and coupling him with the Arabs, who
+      make horrible work there, his life was sought after more than once. These
+      two extensive countries, Rua and Manyuema, are populated by true heathens,
+      governed, not as the sovereignties of Karagwah, Urundi, and Uganda, by
+      despotic kings, but each village by its own sultan or lord. Thirty miles
+      outside of their own immediate settlements, the most intelligent of these
+      small chiefs seem to know nothing. Thirty miles from the Lualaba, there
+      were but few people who had ever heard of the great river. Such ignorance
+      among the natives of their own country naturally increased the labours of
+      Livingstone. Compared with these, all tribes and nations in Africa with
+      whom Livingstone came in contact may be deemed civilized, yet, in the arts
+      of home manufacture, these wild people of Manyuema were far superior to
+      any he had seen. Where other tribes and nations contented themselves with
+      hides and skins of animals thrown negligently over their shoulders, the
+      people of Manyuema manufactured a cloth from fine grass, which may
+      favorably compare with the finest grass cloth of India. They also know the
+      art of dyeing them in various colours&mdash;black, yellow, and purple. The
+      Wangwana, or freed-men of Zanzibar, struck with the beauty of the fabric,
+      eagerly exchange their cotton cloths for fine grass cloth; and on almost
+      every black man from Manyuema I have seen this native cloth converted into
+      elegantly made damirs (Arabic)&mdash;short jackets. These countries are
+      also very rich in ivory. The fever for going to Manyuema to exchange
+      tawdry beads for its precious tusks is of the same kind as that which
+      impelled men to go to the gulches and placers of California, Colorado,
+      Montana, and Idaho; after nuggets to Australia, and diamonds to Cape
+      Colony. Manyuema is at present the El Dorado of the Arab and the Wamrima
+      tribes. It is only about four years since that the first Arab returned
+      from Manyuema, with such wealth of ivory, and reports about the fabulous
+      quantities found there, that ever since the old beaten tracks of Karagwah,
+      Uganda, Ufipa, and Marungu have been comparatively deserted. The people of
+      Manyuema, ignorant of the value of the precious article, reared their huts
+      upon ivory stanchions. Ivory pillars were common sights in Manyuema, and,
+      hearing of these, one can no longer, wonder at the ivory palace of
+      Solomon. For generations they have used ivory tusks as door-posts and
+      supports to the eaves, until they had become perfectly rotten and
+      worthless. But the advent of the Arabs soon taught them the value of the
+      article. It has now risen considerably in price, though still fabulously
+      cheap. At Zanzibar the value of ivory per frasilah of 35 lbs. weight is
+      from $50 to $60, according to its quality. In Unyanyembe it is about $1-10
+      per pound, but in Manyuema, it may be purchased for from half a cent to 14
+      cent's worth of copper per pound of ivory. The Arabs, however, have the
+      knack of spoiling markets by their rapacity and cruelty. With muskets, a
+      small party of Arabs is invincible against such people as those of
+      Manyuema, who, until lately, never heard the sound of a gun. The discharge
+      of a musket inspires mortal terror in them, and it is almost impossible to
+      induce them to face the muzzle of a gun. They believe that the Arabs have
+      stolen the lightning, and that against such people the bow and arrow can
+      have little effect. They are by no means devoid of courage, and they have
+      often declared that, were it not for the guns, not one Arab would leave
+      the country alive; this tends to prove that they would willingly engage in
+      fight with the strangers who had made themselves so detestable, were it
+      not that the startling explosion of gunpowder inspires them with terror.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Into what country soever the Arabs enter, they contrive to render their
+      name and race abominated. But the mainspring of it all is not the Arab's
+      nature, colour, or name, but simply the slave-trade. So long as the
+      slave-trade is permitted to be kept up at Zanzibar, so long will these
+      otherwise enterprising people, the Arabs, kindle gainst them the hatred of
+      the natives throughout Africa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the main line of travel from Zanzibar into the interior of Africa these
+      acts of cruelty are unknown, for the very good reason that the natives
+      having been armed with guns, and taught how to use those weapons, are by
+      no means loth to do so whenever an opportunity presents itself. When, too
+      late, they have perceived their folly in selling guns to the natives, the
+      Arabs now begin to vow vengeance on the person who will in future sell a
+      gun to a native. But they are all guilty of the same mistake, and it is
+      strange they did not perceive that it was folly when they were doing so.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In former days the Arab, when protected by his slave escort, armed with
+      guns, could travel through Useguhha, Urori, Ukonongo, Ufipa, Karagwah,
+      Unyoro, and Uganda, with only a stick in his hand; now, however, it is
+      impossible for him or any one else to do so. Every step he takes, armed or
+      unarmed, is fraught with danger. The Waseguhha, near the coast, detain
+      him, and demand the tribute, or give him the option of war; entering
+      Ugogo, he is subjected every day to the same oppressive demand, or to the
+      fearful alternative. The Wanyamwezi also show their readiness to take the
+      same advantage; the road to Karagwah is besieged with difficulties; the
+      terrible Mirambo stands in the way, defeats their combined forces with
+      ease, and makes raids even to the doors of their houses in Unyanyembe; and
+      should they succeed in passing Mirambo, a chief&mdash;Swaruru&mdash;stands
+      before them who demands tribute by the bale, and against whom it is
+      useless to contend.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These remarks have reference to the slave-trade inaugurated in Manyuema by
+      the Arabs. Harassed on the road between Zanzibar and Unyanyembe by
+      minatory natives, who with bloody hands are ready to avenge the slightest
+      affront, the Arabs have refrained from kidnapping between the Tanganika
+      and the sea; but in Manyuema, where the natives are timid, irresolute, and
+      divided into small weak tribes, they recover their audacity, and exercise
+      their kidnapping propensities unchecked.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The accounts which the Doctor brings from that new region are most
+      deplorable. He was an unwilling spectator of a horrible deed&mdash;a
+      massacre committed on the inhabitants of a populous district who had
+      assembled in the market-place on the banks of the Lualaba, as they had
+      been accustomed to do for ages. It seems that the Wamanyuema are very fond
+      of marketing, believing it to be the summum bonum of human enjoyment. They
+      find endless pleasure in chaffering with might and main for the least mite
+      of their currency&mdash;the last bead; and when they gain the point to
+      which their peculiar talents are devoted, they feel intensely happy. The
+      women are excessively fond of this marketing, and, as they are very
+      beautiful, the market place must possess considerable attractions for the
+      male sex. It was on such a day amidst such a scene, that Tagamoyo, a
+      half-caste Arab, with his armed slave escort, commenced an indiscriminate
+      massacre by firing volley after volley into the dense mass of human
+      beings. It is supposed that there were about 2,000 present, and at the
+      first sound of the firing these poor people all made a rush for their
+      canoes. In the fearful hurry to avoid being shot, the canoes were paddled
+      away by the first fortunate few who got possession of them; those that
+      were not so fortunate sprang into the deep waters of the Lualaba, and
+      though many of them became an easy prey to the voracious crocodiles which
+      swarmed to the scene, the majority received their deaths from the bullets
+      of the merciless Tagamoyo and his villanous band. The Doctor believes, as
+      do the Arabs themselves, that about 400 people, mostly women and children,
+      lost their lives, while many more were made slaves. This outrage is only
+      one of many such he has unwillingly witnessed, and he is utterly unable to
+      describe the feelings of loathing he feels for the inhuman perpetrators.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Slaves from Manyuema command a higher price than those of any other
+      country, because of their fine forms and general docility. The women, the
+      Doctor said repeatedly, are remarkably pretty creatures, and have nothing,
+      except the hair, in common with the negroes of the West Coast. They are of
+      very light colour, have fine noses, well-cut and not over-full lips, while
+      the prognathous jaw is uncommon. These women are eagerly sought after as
+      wives by the half-castes of the East Coast, and even the pure Omani Arabs
+      do not disdain to take them in marriage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To the north of Manyuema, Livingstone came to the light-complexioned race,
+      of the colour of Portuguese, or our own Louisiana quadroons, who are very
+      fine people, and singularly remarkable for commercial "'cuteness" and
+      sagacity. The women are expert divers for oysters, which are found in
+      great abundance in the Lualaba.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rua, at a place called Katanga, is rich in copper. The copper-mines of
+      this place have been worked for ages. In the bed of a stream, gold has
+      been found, washed down in pencil-shaped pieces or in particles as large
+      as split peas. Two Arabs have gone thither to prospect for this metal;
+      but, as they are ignorant of the art of gulch-mining, it is scarcely
+      possible that they will succeed. From these highly important and
+      interesting discoveries, Dr. Livingstone was turned back, when almost on
+      the threshold of success, by the positive refusal of his men to accompany
+      him further. They were afraid to go on unless accompanied by a large force
+      of men; and, as these were not procurable in Manyuema, the Doctor
+      reluctantly turned his face towards Ujiji.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was a long and weary road back. The journey had now no interest for
+      him. He had travelled the road before when going westward, full of high
+      hopes and aspirations, impatient to reach the goal which promised him rest
+      from his labors&mdash;now, returning unsuccessful, baffled, and thwarted,
+      when almost in sight of the end, and having to travel the same path back
+      on foot, with disappointed expectations and defeated hopes preying on his
+      mind, no wonder that the old brave spirit almost succumbed, and the strong
+      constitution almost went to wreck.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Livingstone arrived at Ujiji, October 16th, almost at death's door. On the
+      way he had been trying to cheer himself up, since he had found it
+      impossible to contend against the obstinacy of his men, with, "It won't
+      take long; five or six months more; it matters not since it cannot be
+      helped. I have got my goods in Ujiji, and can hire other people, and make
+      a new start again." These are the words and hopes by which he tried to
+      delude himself into the idea that all would be right yet; but imagine the
+      shock he must have suffered, when he found that the man to whom was
+      entrusted his goods for safe keeping had sold every bale for ivory.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The evening of the day Livingstone had returned to Ujiji, Susi and Chuma,
+      two of his most faithful men, were seen crying bitterly. The Doctor asked
+      of them what ailed them, and was then informed, for the first time, of the
+      evil tidings that awaited him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Said they, "All our things are sold, sir; Sherif has sold everything for
+      ivory."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Later in the evening, Sherif came to see him, and shamelessly offered his
+      hand, but Livingstone repulsed him, saying he could not shake hands with a
+      thief. As an excuse, Sherif said he had divined on the Koran, and that
+      this had told him the Hakim (Arabic for Doctor) was dead.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Livingstone was now destitute; he had just enough to keep him and his men
+      alive for about a month, when he would be forced to beg from the Arabs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Doctor further stated, that when Speke gives the altitude of the
+      Tanganika at only 1,800 feet above the sea, Speke must have fallen into
+      that error by a frequent writing of the Anne Domini, a mere slip of the
+      pen; for the altitude, as he makes it out, is 2,800 feet by boiling point,
+      and a little over 3,000 feet by barometer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Doctor's complaints were many because slaves were sent to him, in
+      charge of goods, after he had so often implored the people at Zanzibar to
+      send him freemen. A very little effort on the part of those entrusted with
+      the despatch of supplies to him might have enabled them to procure good
+      and faithful freemen; but if they contented themselves, upon the receipt
+      of a letter from Dr. Livingstone, with sending to Ludha Damji for men, it
+      is no longer a matter of wonder that dishonest and incapable slaves were
+      sent forward. It is no new fact that the Doctor has discovered when he
+      states that a negro freeman is a hundred times more capable and
+      trustworthy than a slave. Centuries ago Eumaeus, the herdsman, said to
+      Ulysses:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Jove fixed it certain, that whatever day Makes man a slave, takes half his
+      worth away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We passed several happy days at Ujiji, and it was time we were now
+      preparing for our cruise on the Tanganika. Livingstone was improving every
+      day under the different diet which my cook furnished him. I could give him
+      no such suppers as that which Jupiter and Mercury received at the cottage
+      of Baucis and Philemon. We had no berries of chaste Minerva, pickled
+      cherries, endive, radishes, dried figs, dates, fragrant apples, and
+      grapes; but we had cheese, and butter which I made myself, new-laid eggs,
+      chickens, roast mutton, fish from the lake, rich curds and cream, wine
+      from the Guinea-palm, egg-plants, cucumbers, sweet potatoes, pea-nuts, and
+      beans, white honey from Ukaranga, luscious singwe&mdash;a plum-like fruit&mdash;from
+      the forests of Ujiji, and corn scones and dampers, in place of wheaten
+      bread.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During the noontide heats we sat under our veranda discussing our various
+      projects, and in the early morning and evening we sought the shores of the
+      lake&mdash;promenading up and down the beach to breathe the cool breezes
+      which ruffled the surface of the water, and rolled the unquiet surf far up
+      on the smooth and whitened shore.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was the dry season, and we had most lovely weather; the temperature
+      never was over 80 degrees in the shade.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The market-place overlooking the broad silver water afforded us amusement
+      and instruction. Representatives of most of the tribes dwelling near the
+      lake were daily found there. There were the agricultural and pastoral
+      Wajiji, with their flocks and herds; there were the fishermen from
+      Ukaranga and Kaole, from beyond Bangwe, and even from Urundi, with their
+      whitebait, which they called dogara, the silurus, the perch, and other
+      fish; there were the palm-oil merchants, principally from Ujiji and
+      Urundi, with great five-gallon pots full of reddish oil, of the
+      consistency of butter; there were the salt merchants from the salt-plains
+      of Uvinza and Uhha; there were the ivory merchants from Uvira and Usowa;
+      there were the canoe-makers from Ugoma and Urundi; there were the
+      cheap-Jack pedlers from Zanzibar, selling flimsy prints, and brokers
+      exchanging blue mutunda beads for sami-sami, and sungomazzi, and sofi. The
+      sofi beads are like pieces of thick clay-pipe stem about half an inch
+      long, and are in great demand here. Here were found Waguhha, Wamanyuema,
+      Wagoma, Wavira, Wasige, Warundi, Wajiji, Waha, Wavinza, Wasowa, Wangwana,
+      Wakawendi, Arabs, and Wasawahili, engaged in noisy chaffer and barter.
+      Bareheaded, and almost barebodied, the youths made love to the
+      dark-skinned and woolly-headed Phyllises, who knew not how to blush at the
+      ardent gaze of love, as their white sisters; old matrons gossiped, as the
+      old women do everywhere; the children played, and laughed, and struggled,
+      as children of our own lands; and the old men, leaning on their spears or
+      bows, were just as garrulous in the Place de Ujiji as aged elders in other
+      climes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER XIII. &mdash; OUR CRUISE ON THE LAKE TANGANIKA
+    </h2>
+    <h3>
+      EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH-END OF THE LAKE&mdash; THE RUSIZI IS DISCOVERED
+      TO ENTER INTO THE LAKE&mdash;RETURN TO UJIJI.
+    </h3>
+    <p>
+      "I distinctly deny that 'any misleading by my instructions from the Royal
+      Geographical Society as to the position of the White Nile' made me
+      unconscious of the vast importance of ascertaining the direction of the
+      Rusizi River. The fact is, we did our best to reach it, and we failed."&mdash;Burton's
+      Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "The universal testimony of the natives to the Rusizi River being an
+      influent is the most conclusive argument that it does run out of the
+      lake."&mdash;Speke.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I therefore claim for Lake Tanganika the honour of being the SOUTHERNMOST
+      RESERVOIR OF THE NILE, until some more positive evidence, by actual
+      observation, shall otherwise determine it."&mdash;Findlay, R.G.S.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Had Livingstone and myself, after making up our minds to visit the
+      northern head of the Lake Tanganika, been compelled by the absurd demands
+      or fears of a crew of Wajiji to return to Unyanyembe without having
+      resolved the problem of the Rusizi River, we had surely deserved to be
+      greeted by everybody at home with a universal giggling and cackling. But
+      Capt. Burton's failure to settle it, by engaging Wajiji, and that
+      ridiculous savage chief Kannena, had warned us of the negative assistance
+      we could expect from such people for the solution of a geographical
+      problem. We had enough good sailors with us, who were entirely under our
+      commands. Could we but procure the loan of a canoe, we thought all might
+      be well.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Upon application to Sayd bin Majid, he at once generously permitted us to
+      use his canoe for any service for which we might require it. After
+      engaging two Wajiji guides at two doti each, we prepared to sail from the
+      port of Ujiji, in about a week or so after my entrance into Ujiji.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have already stated how it was that the Doctor and I undertook the
+      exploration of the northern half of the Tanganika and the River Rusizi,
+      about which so much had been said and written.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Before embarking on this enterprise, Dr. Livingstone had not definitely
+      made up his mind which course he should take, as his position was truly
+      deplorable. His servants consisted of Susi, Chumah, Hamoydah, Gardner, and
+      Halimah, the female cook and wife of Hamoydah; to these was added
+      Kaif-Halek, the man whom I compelled to follow me from Unyanyembe to
+      deliver the Livingstone letters to his master.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Whither could Dr. Livingstone march with these few men, and the few
+      table-cloths and beads that remained to him from the store squandered by
+      the imbecile Sherif? This was a puzzling question. Had Dr. Livingstone
+      been in good health, his usual hardihood and indomitable spirit had
+      answered it in a summary way. He might have borrowed some cloth from Sayd
+      bin Majid at an exorbitant price, sufficient to bring him to Unyanyembe
+      and the sea-coast. But how long would he have been compelled to sit down
+      at Ujiji, waiting and waiting for the goods that were said to be at
+      Unyanyembe, a prey to high expectations, hoping day after day that the war
+      would end&mdash;hoping week after week to hear that his goods were coming?
+      Who knows how long his weak health had borne up against the several
+      disappointments to which he would be subjected?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Though it was with all due deference to Dr. Livingstone's vast experience
+      as a traveller, I made bold to suggest the following courses to him,
+      either of which he could adopt:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ist. To go home, and take the rest he so well deserved and, as he appeared
+      then, to be so much in need of.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      2nd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his goods, and enlist pagazis
+      sufficient to enable him to travel anywhere, either to Manyuema or Rua,
+      and settle the Nile problem, which he said he was in a fair way of doing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      3rd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, enlist men, and try to
+      join Sir Samuel Baker, either by going to Muanza, and sailing through
+      Ukerewe or Victoria N'Yanza in my boats&mdash;which I should put up&mdash;to
+      Mtesa's palace at Uganda, thus passing by Mirambo and Swaruru of Usui, who
+      would rob him if he took the usual caravan road to Uganda; thence from
+      Mtesa to Kamrasi, King of Unyoro, where he would of course hear of the
+      great white man who was said to be with a large force of men at Gondokoro.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4th. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, enlist men, and return
+      to Ujiji, and back to Manyuema by way of Uguhha.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      5th. To proceed by way of the Rusizi through Ruanda, and so on to Itara,
+      Unyoro, and Baker.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For either course, whichever he thought most expedient, I and my men would
+      assist him as escort and carriers, to the best of our ability. If he
+      should elect to go home, I informed him I should be proud to escort him,
+      and consider myself subject to his commands&mdash;travelling only when he
+      desired, and camping only when he gave the word.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      6th. The last course which I suggested to him, was to permit me to escort
+      him to Unyanyembe, where he could receive his own goods, and where I could
+      deliver up to him a large supply of first-class cloth and beads, guns and
+      ammunition, cooking utensils, clothing, boats, tents, &amp;c., and where
+      he could rest in a comfortable house, while I would hurry down to the
+      coast, organise a new expedition composed of fifty or sixty faithful men,
+      well armed, by whom I could send an additional supply of needful luxuries
+      in the shape of creature comforts.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After long consideration, he resolved to adopt the last course, as it
+      appeared to him to be the most feasible one, and the best, though he did
+      not hesitate to comment upon the unaccountable apathy of his agent at
+      Zanzibar, which had caused him so much trouble and vexation, and weary
+      marching of hundreds of miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our ship&mdash;though nothing more than a cranky canoe hollowed out of a
+      noble mvule tree of Ugoma&mdash;was an African Argo bound on a nobler
+      enterprise than its famous Grecian prototype. We were bound upon no
+      mercenary errand, after no Golden Fleece, but perhaps to discover a
+      highway for commerce which should bring the ships of the Nile up to Ujiji,
+      Usowa, and far Marungu. We did not know what we might discover on our
+      voyage to the northern head of the Tanganika; we supposed that we should
+      find the Rusizi to be an effluent of the Tanganika, flowing down to the
+      Albert or the Victoria N'Yanza. We were told by natives and Arabs that the
+      Rusizi ran out of the lake.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sayd bin Majid had stated that his canoe would carry twenty-five men, and
+      3,500 lbs. of ivory. Acting upon this information, we embarked twenty-five
+      men, several of whom had stored away bags of salt for the purposes of
+      trade with the natives; but upon pushing off from the shore near Ujiji, we
+      discovered the boat was too heavily laden, and was down to the gunwale.
+      Returning in-shore, we disembarked six men, and unloaded the bags of salt,
+      which left us with sixteen rowers, Selim, Ferajji the cook, and the two
+      Wajiji guides.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having thus properly trimmed our boat we again pushed off, and steered her
+      head for Bangwe Island, which was distant four or five miles from the
+      Bunder of Ujiji. While passing this island the guides informed us that the
+      Arabs and Wajiji took shelter on it during an incursion of the Watuta&mdash;which
+      took place some years ago&mdash;when they came and invaded Ujiji, and
+      massacred several of the inhabitants. Those who took refuge on the island
+      were the only persons who escaped the fire and sword with which the Watuta
+      had visited Ujiji.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After passing the island and following the various bends and indentations
+      of the shore, we came in sight of the magnificent bay of Kigoma, which
+      strikes one at once as being an excellent harbor from the variable winds
+      which blow over the Tanganika. About 10 A.M. we drew in towards the
+      village of Kigoma, as the east wind was then rising, and threatened to
+      drive us to sea. With those travelling parties who are not in much hurry
+      Kigoma is always the first port for canoes bound north from Ujiji. The
+      next morning at dawn we struck tent, stowed baggage, cooked, and drank
+      coffee, and set off northward again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The lake was quite calm; its waters, of a dark-green colour, reflected the
+      serene blue sky above. The hippopotami came up to breathe in alarmingly
+      close proximity to our canoe, and then plunged their heads again, as if
+      they were playing hide-and-seek with us. Arriving opposite the high wooded
+      hills of Bemba, and being a mile from shore, we thought it a good
+      opportunity to sound the depth of the water, whose colour seemed to
+      indicate great depth. We found thirty-five fathoms at this place.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our canoeing of this day was made close in-shore, with a range of hills,
+      beautifully wooded and clothed with green grass, sloping abruptly, almost
+      precipitously, into the depths of the fresh-water sea, towering
+      immediately above us, and as we rounded the several capes or points,
+      roused high expectations of some new wonder, or some exquisite picture
+      being revealed as the deep folds disclosed themselves to us. Nor were we
+      disappointed. The wooded hills with a wealth of boscage of beautiful
+      trees, many of which were in bloom, and crowned with floral glory,
+      exhaling an indescribably sweet fragrance, lifting their heads in varied
+      contour&mdash;one pyramidal, another a truncated cone; one table-topped,
+      another ridgy, like the steep roof of a church; one a glorious heave with
+      an even outline, another jagged and savage-interested us considerably; and
+      the pretty pictures, exquisitely pretty, at the head of the several bays,
+      evoked many an exclamation of admiration. It was the most natural thing in
+      the world that I should feel deepest admiration for these successive
+      pictures of quiet scenic beauty, but the Doctor had quite as much to say
+      about them as I had myself, though, as one might imagine, satiated with
+      pictures of this kind far more beautiful&mdash;far more wonderful&mdash;he
+      should long ago have expended all his powers of admiring scenes in nature.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From Bagamoyo to Ujiji I had seen nothing to compare to them&mdash;none of
+      these fishing settlements under the shade of a grove of palms and
+      plantains, banians and mimosa, with cassava gardens to the right and left
+      of palmy forests, and patches of luxuriant grain looking down upon a quiet
+      bay, whose calm waters at the early morn reflected the beauties of the
+      hills which sheltered them from the rough and boisterous tempests that so
+      often blew without.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The fishermen evidently think themselves comfortably situated. The lake
+      affords them all the fish they require, more than enough to eat, and the
+      industrious a great deal to sell. The steep slopes of the hills,
+      cultivated by the housewives, contribute plenty of grain, such as dourra
+      and Indian corn, besides cassava, ground-nuts or peanuts, and sweet
+      potatoes. The palm trees afford oil, and the plantains an abundance of
+      delicious fruit. The ravines and deep gullies supply them with the tall
+      shapely trees from which they cut out their canoes. Nature has supplied
+      them bountifully with all that a man's heart or stomach can desire. It is
+      while looking at what seems both externally and internally complete and
+      perfect happiness that the thought occurs&mdash;how must these people
+      sigh, when driven across the dreary wilderness that intervenes between the
+      lake country and the sea-coast, for such homes as these!&mdash;those
+      unfortunates who, bought by the Arabs for a couple of doti, are taken away
+      to Zanzibar to pick cloves, or do hamal work!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As we drew near Niasanga, our second camp, the comparison between the
+      noble array of picturesque hills and receding coves, with their pastoral
+      and agricultural scenes, and the shores of old Pontus, was very great. A
+      few minutes before we hauled our canoe ashore, two little incidents
+      occurred. I shot an enormous dog-faced monkey, which measured from nose to
+      end of tail 4 feet 9 inches; the face was 8 1/2 inches long, its body
+      weighed about 100 lbs. It had no mane or tuft at end of tail, but the body
+      was covered with long wiry hair. Numbers of these specimens were seen, as
+      well as of the active cat-headed and long-tailed smaller ones. The other
+      was the sight of a large lizard, about 2 ft. 6 in. long, which waddled
+      into cover before we had well noticed it. The Doctor thought it to be the
+      Monitor terrestris.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We encamped under a banian tree; our surroundings were the now light-grey
+      waters of the Tanganika, an amphitheatral range of hills, and the village
+      of Niasanga, situated at the mouth of the rivulet Niasanga, with its grove
+      of palms, thicket of plantains, and plots of grain and cassava fields.
+      Near our tent were about half-a-dozen canoes, large and small, belonging
+      to the villagers. Our tent door fronted the glorious expanse of fresh
+      water, inviting the breeze, and the views of distant Ugoma and Ukaramba,
+      and the Island of Muzimu, whose ridges appeared of a deep-blue colour. At
+      our feet were the clean and well-washed pebbles, borne upward into tiny
+      lines and heaps by the restless surf. A search amongst these would reveal
+      to us the material of the mountain heaps which rose behind and on our
+      right and left; there was schist, conglomerate sandstone, a hard white
+      clay, an ochreish clay containing much iron, polished quartz, &amp;c.
+      Looking out of our tent, we could see a line on each side of us of thick
+      tall reeds, which form something like a hedge between the beach and the
+      cultivated area around Niasanga. Among birds seen here, the most noted
+      were the merry wagtails, which are regarded as good omens and messengers
+      of peace by the natives, and any harm done unto them is quickly resented,
+      and is fineable. Except to the mischievously inclined, they offer no
+      inducement to commit violence. On landing, they flew to meet us, balancing
+      themselves in the air in front, within easy reach of our hands. The other
+      birds were crows, turtle-doves, fish-hawks, kingfishers, ibis nigra and
+      ibis religiosa, flocks of whydah birds, geese, darters, paddy birds,
+      kites, and eagles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At this place the Doctor suffered from dysentery&mdash;it is his only weak
+      point, he says; and, as I afterwards found, it is a frequent complaint
+      with him. Whatever disturbed his mind, or any irregularity in eating, was
+      sure to end in an attack of dysentery, which had lately become of a
+      chronic character.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The third day of our journey on the Tanganika brought us to Zassi River
+      and village, after a four hours' pull. Along the line of road the
+      mountains rose 2,000 and 2,500 feet above the waters of the lake. I
+      imagined the scenery getting more picturesque and animated at every step,
+      and thought it by far lovelier than anything seen near Lake George or on
+      the Hudson. The cosy nooks at the head of the many small bays constitute
+      most admirable pictures, filled in as they are with the ever-beautiful
+      feathery palms and broad green plantain fronds. These nooks have all been
+      taken possession of by fishermen, and their conically beehive-shaped huts
+      always peep from under the frondage. The shores are thus extremely
+      populous; every terrace, small plateau, and bit of level ground is
+      occupied.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Zassi is easily known by a group of conical hills which rise near by, and
+      are called Kirassa. Opposite to these, at the distance of about a mile
+      from shore, we sounded, and obtained 35 fathoms, as on the previous day.
+      Getting out a mile further, I let go the whole length of my line, 115
+      fathoms, and obtained no bottom. In drawing it up again the line parted,
+      and I lost the lead, with three-fourths of the line. The Doctor stated,
+      apropos of this, that he had sounded opposite the lofty Kabogo, south of
+      Ujiji, and obtained the great depth of 300 fathoms. He also lost his lead
+      and 100 fathoms of his line, but he had nearly 900 fathoms left, and this
+      was in the canoes. We hope to use this long sounding line in going across
+      from the eastern to the western shore.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the fourth day we arrived at Nyabigma, a sandy island in Urundi. We had
+      passed the boundary line between Ujiji and Urundi half-an-hour before
+      arriving at Nyabigma. The Mshala River is considered by both nations to be
+      the proper divisional line; though there are parties of Warundi who have
+      emigrated beyond the frontier into Ujiji; for instance, the Mutware and
+      villagers of populous Kagunga, distant an hour north from Zassi. There are
+      also several small parties of Wajiji, who have taken advantage of the fine
+      lands in the deltas of the Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Luaba Rivers, the two
+      first of which enter the Tanganika in this bay, near the head of which
+      Nyabigma is situated.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From Nyabigma, a pretty good view of the deep curve in the great mountain
+      range which stretches from Cape Kazinga and terminates at Cape Kasofu, may
+      be obtained&mdash;a distance of twenty or twenty-five miles. It is a most
+      imposing scene, this great humpy, ridgy, and irregular line of mountains.
+      Deep ravines and chasms afford outlets to the numerous streams and rivers
+      which take their rise in the background; the pale fleecy ether almost
+      always shrouds its summit. From its base extends a broad alluvial plain,
+      rich beyond description, teeming with palms and plantains, and umbrageous
+      trees. Villages are seen in clusters everywhere. Into this alluvial plain
+      run the Luaba, or Ruaba River, on the north side of Cape Kitunda, and the
+      Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Mshala Rivers, on the south side of the cape. All
+      the deltas of rivers emptying into the Tanganika are hedged in on all
+      sides with a thick growth of matete, a gigantic species of grass, and
+      papyrus. In some deltas, as that of Luaba and Kasokwe, morasses have been
+      formed, in which the matete and papyrus jungle is impenetrable. In the
+      depths of them are quiet and deep pools, frequented by various aquatic
+      birds, such as geese, ducks, snipes, widgeons, kingfishers and ibis,
+      cranes and storks, and pelicans. To reach their haunts is, however, a work
+      of great difficulty to the sportsman in quest of game; a work often
+      attended with great danger, from the treacherous nature of these morasses,
+      as well as from the dreadful attacks of fever which, in these regions,
+      invariably follow wet feet and wet clothes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Nyabigma we prepared, by distributing ten rounds of ammunition to each
+      of our men, for a tussle with the Warundi of two stages ahead, should they
+      invite it by a too forward exhibition of their prejudice to strangers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At dawn of the fifth day we quitted the haven of Nyabigma Island, and in
+      less than an hour had arrived off Cape Kitunda. This cape is a low
+      platform of conglomerate sandstone, extending for about eight miles from
+      the base of the great mountain curve which gives birth to the Luaba and
+      its sister streams. Crossing the deep bay, at the head of which is the
+      delta of the Luaba, we came to Cape Kasofu. Villages are numerous in this
+      vicinity. From hence we obtained a view of a series of points or capes,
+      Kigongo, Katunga, and Buguluka, all of which we passed before coming to a
+      halt at the pretty position of Mukungu.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Mukungu, where we stopped on the fifth day, we were asked for honga, or
+      tribute. The cloth and beads upon which we subsisted during our lake
+      voyage were mine, but the Doctor, being the elder of the two, more
+      experienced, and the "big man" of the party, had the charge of satisfying
+      all such demands. Many and many a time had I gone through the tedious and
+      soul-wearying task of settling the honga, and I was quite curious to see
+      how the great traveller would perform the work.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Mateko (a man inferior to a Mutware) of Mukungu asked for two and a
+      half doti. This was the extent of the demand, which he made known to us a
+      little after dark. The Doctor asked if nothing had been brought to us. He
+      was answered, "No, it was too late to get anything now; but, if we paid
+      the honga, the Mateko would be ready to give us something when we came
+      back." Livingstone, upon hearing this, smiled, and the Mateko being then
+      and there in front of him, he said to him. "Well, if you can't get us
+      anything now, and intend to give something when we return, we had better
+      keep the honga until then." The Mateko was rather taken aback at this, and
+      demurred to any such proposition. Seeing that he was dissatisfied, we
+      urged him to bring one sheep&mdash;one little sheep&mdash;for our stomachs
+      were nearly empty, having been waiting more than half a day for it. The
+      appeal was successful, for the old man hastened, and brought us a lamb and
+      a three-gallon pot of sweet but strong zogga, or palm toddy, and in return
+      the Doctor gave him two and a half doti of cloth. The lamb was killed,
+      and, our digestions being good, its flesh agreed with us; but, alas, for
+      the effects of zogga, or palm toddy! Susi, the invaluable adjunct of Dr.
+      Livingstone, and Bombay, the headman of my caravan, were the two charged
+      with watching the canoe; but, having imbibed too freely of this
+      intoxicating toddy, they slept heavily, and in the morning the Doctor and
+      I had to regret the loss of several valuable and indispensable things;
+      among which may be mentioned the Doctor's 900-fathom sounding-line, 500
+      rounds of pin, rim, and central-fire cartridges for my arms, and ninety
+      musket bullets, also belonging to me. Besides these, which were
+      indispensable in hostile Warundi, a large bag of flour and the Doctor's
+      entire stock of white sugar were stolen. This was the third time that my
+      reliance in Bombay's trustworthiness resulted in a great loss to me, and
+      for the ninety-ninth time I had to regret bitterly having placed such
+      entire confidence in Speke's loud commendation of him. It was only the
+      natural cowardice of ignorant thieves that prevented the savages from
+      taking the boat and its entire contents, together with Bombay and Susi as
+      slaves. I can well imagine the joyful surprise which must have been called
+      forth at the sight and exquisite taste of the Doctor's sugar, and the
+      wonder with which they must have regarded the strange ammunition of the
+      Wasungu. It is to be sincerely hoped that they did not hurt themselves
+      with the explosive bullets and rim cartridges through any ignorance of the
+      nature of the deadly contents; in which ease the box and its contents
+      would prove a very Pandora's casket.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Much grieved at our loss, we set off on the sixth day at the usual hour on
+      our watery journey. We coasted close to the several low headlands formed
+      by the rivers Kigwena, Kikuma, and Kisunwe; and when any bay promised to
+      be interesting, steered the canoe according to its indentations. While
+      travelling on the water&mdash;each day brought forth similar scenes&mdash;on
+      our right rose the mountains of Urundi, now and then disclosing the
+      ravines through which the several rivers and streams issued into the great
+      lake; at their base were the alluvial plains, where flourished the
+      oil-palm and grateful plantain, while scores of villages were grouped
+      under their shade. Now and then we passed long narrow strips of pebbly or
+      sandy beach, whereon markets were improvised for selling fish, and the
+      staple products of the respective communities. Then we passed broad swampy
+      morasses, formed by the numerous streams which the mountains discharged,
+      where the matete and papyrus flourished. Now the mountains approached to
+      the water, their sides descending abruptly to the water's edge; then they
+      receded into deep folds, at the base of which was sure to be seen an
+      alluvial plain from one to eight miles broad. Almost constantly we
+      observed canoes being punted vigorously close to the surf, in fearless
+      defiance of a catastrophe, such as a capsize and gobbling-up by voracious
+      crocodiles. Sometimes we sighted a canoe a short distance ahead of us;
+      whereupon our men, with song and chorus, would exert themselves to the
+      utmost to overtake it. Upon observing our efforts, the natives would bend
+      themselves to their tasks, and paddling standing and stark naked, give us
+      ample opportunities for studying at our leisure comparative anatomy. Or we
+      saw a group of fishermen lazily reclining in <i>puris naturalibus</i> on
+      the beach, regarding with curious eye the canoes as they passed their
+      neighbourhood; then we passed a flotilla of canoes, their owners sitting
+      quietly in their huts, busily plying the rod and hook, or casting their
+      nets, or a couple of men arranging their long drag nets close in shore for
+      a haul; or children sporting fearlessly in the water, with their mothers
+      looking on approvingly from under the shade of a tree, from which I infer
+      that there are not many crocodiles in the lake, except in the
+      neighbourhood of the large rivers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After passing the low headland of Kisunwe, formed by the Kisunwe River, we
+      came in view of Murembwe Cape, distant about four or five miles: the
+      intervening ground being low land, a sandy and pebbly beach. Close to the
+      beach are scores of villages, while the crowded shore indicates the
+      populousness of the place beyond. About half way between Cape Kisunwe and
+      Murembwe, is a cluster of villages called Bikari, which has a mutware who
+      is in the habit of taking honga. As we were rendered unable to cope for
+      any length of time with any mischievously inclined community, all villages
+      having a bad reputation with the Wajiji were avoided by us. But even the
+      Wajiji guides were sometimes mistaken, and led us more than once into
+      dangerous places. The guides evidently had no objections to halt at
+      Bikari, as it was the second camp from Mukungu; because with them a halt
+      in the cool shade of plaintains was infinitely preferable to sitting like
+      carved pieces of wood in a cranky canoe. But before they stated their
+      objections and preferences, the Bikari people called to us in a loud voice
+      to come ashore, threatening us with the vengeance of the great Wami if we
+      did not halt. As the voices were anything but siren-like, we obstinately
+      refused to accede to the request. Finding threats of no avail, they had
+      recourse to stones, and, accordingly, flung them at us in a most hearty
+      manner. As one came within a foot of my arm, I suggested that a bullet be
+      sent in return in close proximity to their feet; but Livingstone, though
+      he said nothing, yet showed plainly enough that he did not quite approve
+      of this. As these demonstrations of hostility were anything but welcome,
+      and as we saw signs of it almost every time we came opposite a village, we
+      kept on our way until we came to Murembwe Point, which, being a delta of a
+      river of the same name, was well protected by a breadth of thorny jungle,
+      spiky cane, and a thick growth of reed and papyrus, from which the boldest
+      Mrundi might well shrink, especially if he called to mind that beyond this
+      inhospitable swamp were the guns of the strangers his like had so rudely
+      challenged. We drew our canoe ashore here, and, on a limited area of clean
+      sand, Ferajji, our rough-and-ready cook, lit his fire, and manufactured
+      for us a supply of most delicious Mocha coffee. Despite the dangers which
+      still beset us, we were quite happy, and seasoned our meal with a little
+      moral philosophy, which lifted us unconsciously into infinitely superior
+      beings to the pagans by whom we were surrounded&mdash;upon whom we now
+      looked down, under the influence of Mocha coffee and moral philosophy,
+      with calm contempt, not unmixed with a certain amount of compassion. The
+      Doctor related some experiences he had had among people of similar
+      disposition, but did not fail to ascribe them, with the wisdom of a man of
+      ripe experiences, to the unwise conduct of the Arabs and half-castes; in
+      this opinion I unreservedly concur.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From Murembwe Point, having finished our coffee and ended our discourse on
+      ethics, we proceeded on our voyage, steering for Cape Sentakeyi, which,
+      though it was eight or ten miles away, we hoped to make before dark. The
+      Wangwana pulled with right good will, but ten hours went by, and night was
+      drawing near, and we were still far from Sentakeyi. As it was a fine
+      moonlight night, and we were fully alive to the dangerous position in
+      which we might find ourselves, they consented to pull an hour or two more.
+      About 1 P.M., we pulled in shore for a deserted spot&mdash;a clean shelf
+      of sand, about thirty feet long by ten deep, from which a clay bank rose
+      about ten or twelve feet above, while on each side there were masses of
+      disintegrated rock. Here we thought, that by preserving some degree of
+      silence, we might escape observation, and consequent annoyance, for a few
+      hours, when, being rested, we might continue our journey. Our kettle was
+      boiling for tea, and the men had built a little fire for themselves, and
+      had filled their black earthen pot with water for porridge, when our
+      look-outs perceived dark forms creeping towards our bivouac. Being hailed,
+      they at once came forward, and saluted us with the native "Wake." Our
+      guides explained that we were Wangwana, and intended to camp until
+      morning, when, if they had anything to sell, we should be glad to trade
+      with them. They said they were rejoiced to hear this, and after they had
+      exchanged a few words more&mdash;during which time we observed that they
+      were taking mental notes of the camp&mdash;they went away. Upon leaving,
+      they promised to return in the morning with food, and make friends with
+      us. While drinking our tea, the look-outs warned us of the approach of a
+      second party, which went through the same process of saluting and
+      observing as the first had done. These also went away, over-exuberant, as
+      I thought, and were shortly succeeded by a third party, who came and went
+      as the others had. From all this we inferred that the news was spreading
+      rapidly through the villages about, and we had noticed two canoes passing
+      backwards and forwards with rather more haste than we deemed usual or
+      necessary. We had good cause to be suspicious; it is not customary for
+      people (at least, between Ujiji and Zanzibar) to be about visiting and
+      saluting after dark, under any pretence; it is not permitted to persons to
+      prowl about camp after dark without being shot at; and this going backward
+      and forward, this ostentatious exuberance of joy at the arrival of a small
+      party of Wangwana, which in many parts of Urundi would be regarded as a
+      very common event, was altogether very suspicious. While the Doctor and I
+      were arriving at the conclusion that these movements were preliminary to
+      or significant of hostility, a fourth body, very boisterous and loud, came
+      and visited us. Our supper had been by this time despatched, and we
+      thought it high time to act. The fourth party having gone with extravagant
+      manifestations of delight, the men were hurried into the canoe, and, when
+      all were seated, and the look-outs embarked, we quietly pushed off, but
+      not a moment too soon. As the canoe was gliding from the darkened light
+      that surrounded us, I called the Doctor's attention to several dark forms;
+      some of whom were crouching behind the rocks on our right, and others
+      scrambling over them to obtain good or better positions; at the same time
+      people were approaching from the left of our position, in the same
+      suspicious way; and directly a voice hailed us from the top of the clay
+      bank overhanging the sandy shelf where we had lately been resting. "Neatly
+      done," cried the Doctor, as we were shooting through the water, leaving
+      the discomfited would-be robbers behind us. Here, again, my hand was
+      stayed from planting a couple of good shots, as a warning to them in
+      future from molesting strangers, by the more presence of the Doctor, who,
+      as I thought, if it were actually necessary, would not hesitate to give
+      the word.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After pulling six hours more, during which we had rounded Cape Sentakeyi,
+      we stopped at the small fishing village of Mugeyo, where we were permitted
+      to sleep unmolested. At dawn we continued our journey, and about 8 A.M.
+      arrived at the village of the friendly Mutware of Magala. We had pulled
+      for eighteen hours at a stretch, which, at the rate of two miles and a
+      half per hour, would make forty-five miles. Taking bearings from our camp
+      at Cape Magala, one of the most prominent points in travelling north from
+      Ujiji, we found that the large island of Muzimu, which had been in sight
+      ever since rounding Cape Bangwe, near Ujiji Bunder, bore about
+      south-south-west, and that the western shore had considerably approached
+      to the eastern; the breadth of the lake being at this point about eight or
+      ten miles. We had a good view of the western highlands, which seemed to be
+      of an average height, about 3,000 feet above the lake. Luhanga Peak,
+      rising a little to the north of west from Magala, might be about 500 feet
+      higher; and Sumburizi, a little north of Luhanga, where lived Mruta,
+      Sultan of Uvira, the country opposite to this part of Urundi, about 300
+      feet higher than the neighbouring heights. Northward from Magala Cape the
+      lake streamed away between two chains of mountains; both meeting in a
+      point about thirty miles north of us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Warundi of Magala were very civil, and profound starers. They flocked
+      around the tent door, and most pertinaciously gazed on us, as if we were
+      subjects of most intense interest, but liable to sudden and eternal
+      departure. The Mutware came to see us late in the afternoon, dressed with
+      great pomp. He turned out to be a boy whom I had noticed in the crowd of
+      gazers for his good looks and fine teeth, which he showed, being addicted
+      to laughing continually. There was no mistaking him, though he was now
+      decorated with many ivory ornaments, with necklaces, and with heavy brass
+      bracelets and iron wire anklets. Our admiration of him was reciprocated;
+      and, in return for our two doti of cloth and a fundo of samsam, he gave a
+      fine fat and broad-tailed sheep, and a pot of milk. In our condition both
+      were extremely acceptable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Magala we heard of a war raging between Mukamba, for whose country we
+      were bound, and Warumashanya, a Sultan of an adjoining district; and we
+      were advised that, unless we intended to assist one of these chiefs
+      against the other, it would be better for us to return. But, as we had
+      started to solve the problem of the Rusizi River, such considerations had
+      no weight with us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the eighth morning from leaving Ujiji we bade farewell to the
+      hospitable people of Magala, and set off for Mukamba's country, which was
+      in view. Soon after passing the boundary between Urundi proper, and what
+      is known as Usige, a storm from the south-west arose; and the fearful
+      yawing of our canoe into the wave trough warned us from proceeding
+      further; so we turned her head for Kisuka village, about four miles north,
+      where Mugere, in Usige, begins.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Kisuka a Mgwana living with Mukamba came to see us, and gave us details
+      of the war between Mukamba and Warumashanya, from which it seemed that
+      these two chiefs were continually at loggerheads. It is a tame way of
+      fighting, after all. One chief makes a raid into the other's country, and
+      succeeds in making off with a herd of cattle, killing one or two men who
+      have been surprised. Weeks, or perhaps months elapse before the other
+      retaliates, and effects a capture in a similar way, and then a balance is
+      struck in which neither is the gainer. Seldom do they attack each other
+      with courage and hearty goodwill, the constitution of the African being
+      decidedly against any such energetic warfare.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This Mgwana, further, upon being questioned, gave us information far more
+      interesting, viz., about the Rusizi. He told us positively, with the air
+      of a man who knew all about it, and as if anybody who doubted him might
+      well be set down as an egregious ass, that the Rusizi River flowed out of
+      the lake, away to Suna's (Mtesa's) country. "Where else could it flow to?"
+      he asked. The Doctor was inclined to believe it, or, perhaps he was more
+      inclined to let it rest as stated until our own eyes should confirm it. I
+      was more inclined to doubt, as I told the Doctor; first, it was too good
+      to be true; second, the fellow was too enthusiastic upon a subject that
+      could not possibly interest him. His "Barikallahs" and "Inshallahs" were
+      far too fervid; his answers too much in accordance with our wishes. The
+      Doctor laid great stress on the report of a Mgwana he met far south, who
+      stated that the grandfather or father of Rumanika, present King of
+      Karagwah, had thought of excavating the bed of the Kitangule River, in
+      order that his canoes might go to Ujiji to open a trade. From this, I
+      imagine, coinciding as it did with his often-expressed and present firm
+      belief that the waters of the Tanganika had an outlet somewhere, the
+      Doctor was partial to the report of the Mgwana; but as we proceed we shall
+      see how all this will end.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the ninth morning from Ujiji, about two hours after sunrise, we passed
+      the broad delta of the Mugere, a river which gives its name also to the
+      district on the eastern shore ruled over by Mukamba. We had come directly
+      opposite the most southern of its three mouths, when we found quite a
+      difference in the colour of the water. An almost straight line, drawn east
+      and west from the mouth would serve well to mark off the difference that
+      existed between the waters. On the south side was pure water of a light
+      green, on the north side it was muddy, and the current could be distinctly
+      seen flowing north. Soon after passing the first mouth we came to a
+      second, and then a third mouth, each only a few yards broad, but each
+      discharging sufficient water to permit our following the line of the
+      currents several rods north beyond the respective mouths.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Beyond the third mouth of the Mugere a bend disclosed itself, with groups
+      of villages beyond on its bank. These were Mukamba's, and in one of them
+      lived Mukamba, the chief. The natives had yet never seen a white man, and,
+      of course, as soon as we landed we were surrounded by a large concourse,
+      all armed with long spears&mdash;the only weapon visible amongst them save
+      a club-stick, and here and there a hatchet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were shown into a hut, which the Doctor and I shared between us. What
+      followed on that day I have but a dim recollection, having been struck
+      down by fever&mdash;the first since leaving Unyanyembe. I dimly recollect
+      trying to make out what age Mukamba might be, and noting that he was
+      good-looking withal, and kindly-disposed towards us. And during the
+      intervals of agony and unconsciousness, I saw, or fancied I saw,
+      Livingstone's form moving towards me, and felt, or fancied I felt,
+      Livingstone's hand tenderly feeling my hot head and limbs. I had suffered
+      several fevers between Bagamoyo and Unyanyembe, without anything or
+      anybody to relieve me of the tedious racking headache and pain, or to
+      illumine the dark and gloomy prospect which must necessarily surround the
+      bedside of the sick and solitary traveller. But though this fever, having
+      enjoyed immunity from it for three months, was more severe than usual, I
+      did not much regret its occurrence, since I became the recipient of the
+      very tender and fatherly kindness of the good man whose companion I now
+      found myself.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next morning, having recovered slightly from the fever, when Mukamba
+      came with a present of an ox, a sheep, and a goat, I was able to attend to
+      the answers which he gave to the questions about the Rusizi River and the
+      head of the lake. The ever cheerful and enthusiastic Mgwana was there
+      also, and he was not a whit abashed, when, through him, the chief told us
+      that the Rusizi, joined by the Ruanda, or Luanda, at a distance of two
+      days' journey by water, or one day by land from the head of the lake,
+      flowed INTO the lake.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Thus our hopes, excited somewhat by the positive and repeated assurances
+      that the river flowed out away towards Karagwah, collapsed as speedily as
+      they were raised.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We paid Mukamba the honga, consisting of nine doti and nine fundo of
+      samsam, lunghio, muzurio n'zige. The printed handkerchiefs, which I had in
+      abundance at Unyanyembe, would have gone well here. After receiving his
+      present, the chief introduced his son, a tall youth of eighteen or
+      thereabouts, to the Doctor, as a would-be son of the Doctor; but, with a
+      good-natured laugh, the Doctor scouted all such relationship with him, as
+      it was instituted only for the purpose of drawing more cloth out of him.
+      Mukamba took it in good part, and did not insist on getting more.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our second evening at Mukamba's, Susi, the Doctor's servant, got
+      gloriously drunk, through the chief's liberal and profuse gifts of pombe.
+      Just at dawn neat morning I was awakened by hearing several sharp,
+      crack-like sounds. I listened, and I found the noise was in our hut. It
+      was caused by the Doctor, who, towards midnight, had felt some one come
+      and lie down by his side on the same bed, and, thinking it was me, he had
+      kindly made room, and laid down on the edge of the bed. But in the
+      morning, feeling rather cold, he had been thoroughly awakened, and, on
+      rising on his elbow to see who his bed-fellow was, he discovered, to his
+      great astonishment, that it was no other than his black servant, Susi, who
+      taking possession of his blankets, and folding them about himself most
+      selfishly, was occupying almost the whole bed. The Doctor, with that
+      gentleness characteristic of him, instead of taking a rod, had contented
+      himself with slapping Susi on the back, saying, "Get up, Susi, will you?
+      You are in my bed. How dare you, sir, get drunk in this way, after I have
+      told you so often not to. Get up. You won't? Take that, and that, and
+      that." Still Susi slept and grunted; so the slapping continued, until even
+      Susi's thick hide began to feel it, and he was thoroughly awakened to the
+      sense of his want of devotion and sympathy for his master in the usurping
+      of even his master's bed. Susi looked very much crestfallen after this
+      exposé of his infirmity before the "little master," as I was called.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day at dusk&mdash;Mukamba having come to bid us good-bye, and
+      requested that as soon as we reached his brother Ruhinga, whose country
+      was at the head of the lake, we would send our canoe back for him, and
+      that in the meanwhile we should leave two of our men with him, with their
+      guns, to help defend him in case Warumashanya should attack him as soon as
+      we were gone&mdash;we embarked and pulled across. In nine hours we had
+      arrived at the head of the lake in Mugihewa, the country of Ruhinga;
+      Mukamba's elder brother. In looking back to where we had come from we
+      perceived that we had made a diagonal cut across from south-east to
+      north-west, instead of having made a direct east and west course; or, in
+      other words, from Mugere&mdash;which was at least ten miles from the
+      northernmost point of the eastern shore&mdash;we had come to Mugihewa,
+      situated at the northernmost point of the western shore. Had we continued
+      along the eastern shore, and so round the northern side of the lake, we
+      should have passed by Mukanigi, the country of Warumashanya, and Usumbura
+      of Simveh, his ally and friend. But by making a diagonal course, as just
+      described, we had arrived at the extreme head of the lake without any
+      difficulty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The country in which we now found ourselves, Mugihewa, is situated in the
+      delta of the Rusizi River. It is an extremely flat country, the highest
+      part of which is not ten feet above the lake, with numerous depressions in
+      it overgrown with the rankest of matete-grass and the tallest of papyrus,
+      and pond-like hollows, filled with stagnant water, which emit malaria
+      wholesale. Large herds of cattle are reared on it; for where the ground is
+      not covered with marshy plants it produces rich, sweet grass. The sheep
+      and goats, especially the former, are always in good condition; and though
+      they are not to be compared with English or American sheep, they are the
+      finest I have seen in Africa. Numerous villages are seen on this land
+      because the intervening spaces are not occupied with the rank and
+      luxuriant jungle common in other parts of Africa. Were it not for the
+      Euphorbia kolquall of Abyssinia&mdash;which some chief has caused to be
+      planted as a defence round the villages&mdash;one might see from one end
+      of Mugihewa to the other. The waters along the head of the lake, from the
+      western to the eastern shores, swarm with crocodiles. From the banks, I
+      counted ten heads of crocodiles, and the Rusizi, we were told, was full of
+      them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ruhinga, who came to see us soon after we had taken up our quarters in his
+      village, was a most amiable man, who always contrived to see something
+      that excited his risibility; though older by five or six years perhaps&mdash;he
+      said he was a hundred years old&mdash;than Mukamba, he was not half so
+      dignified, nor regarded with so much admiration by his people as his
+      younger brother. Ruhinga had a better knowledge, however, of the country
+      than Mukamba, and an admirable memory, and was able to impart his
+      knowledge of the country intelligently. After he had done the honours as
+      chief to us&mdash;presented us with an ox and a sheep, milk and honey&mdash;we
+      were not backward in endeavouring to elicit as much information as
+      possible out of him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The summary of the information derived from Ruhinga may be stated as
+      follows:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The country bordering the head of the lake from Urundi proper, on the
+      eastern shore, to Uvira on the western, is divided into the following
+      districts: 1st. Mugere, governed by Mukamba, through which issued into the
+      lake the small rivers of Mugere and Mpanda. 2nd. Mukanigi, governed by
+      Warumashanya, which occupied the whole of the north-eastern head of the
+      lake, through which issued into the lake the small rivers of Karindwa and
+      Mugera wa Kanigi. 3rd. On the eastern half of the district, at the head of
+      the lake, was Usumbura, governed by Simveh, ally and friend of
+      Warumashanya, extending to the eastern bank of the Rusizi. 4th. Commencing
+      from the western bank of the Rusizi, to the extreme north-western head of
+      the lake, was Mugihewa&mdash;Ruhinga's country. 5th. From Uvira on the
+      west, running north past Mugihewa, and overlapping it on the north side as
+      far as the hills of Chamati, was Ruwenga, also a country governed by
+      Mukamba. Beyond Ruwenga, from the hills of Chamati to the Ruanda River,
+      was the country of Chamati. West of Ruwenga, comprising all the mountains
+      for two days' journey in that direction, was Uashi. These are the smaller
+      sub-divisions of what is commonly known as Ruwenga and Usige. Ruwenga
+      comprises the countries of Ruwenga and Mugihewa; Usige, the countries of
+      Usumbura, Mukanigi, and Mugere. But all these countries are only part and
+      parcel of Urundi, which comprises all that country bordering the lake from
+      Mshala River, on the eastern shore, to Uvira, on the western, extending
+      over ten days' journey direct north from the head of the lake, and one
+      month in a northeastern direction to Murukuko, the capital of Mwezi,
+      Sultan of all Urundi. Direct north of Urundi is Ruanda; also a very large
+      country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Rusizi River&mdash;according to Ruhinga&mdash;rose near a lake called
+      Kivo, which he said is as long as from Mugihawa to Mugere, and as broad as
+      from Mugihewa to Warumashanya's country, or, say eighteen miles in length
+      by about eight in breadth. The lake is surrounded by mountains on the
+      western and northern sides: on the south-western side of one of these
+      mountains issues the Rusizi&mdash;at first a small rapid stream; but as it
+      proceeds towards the lake it receives the rivers Kagunissi, Kaburan,
+      Mohira, Nyamagana, Nyakagunda, Ruviro, Rofubu, Kavimvira, Myove, Ruhuha,
+      Mukindu, Sange, Rubirizi, Kiriba, and, lastly, the Ruanda River, which
+      seems to be the largest of them all. Kivo Lake is so called from the
+      country in which it is situated. On one side is Mutumbi (probably the
+      Utumbi of Speke and Baker), on the west is Ruanda; on the east is Urundi.
+      The name of the chief of Kivo is Kwansibura.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After so many minute details about the River Rusizi, it only remained for
+      us to see it. On the second morning of our arrival at Mugihewa we mustered
+      ten strong paddlers, and set out to explore the head of the lake and the
+      mouth of the Rusizi. We found that the northern head of the lake was
+      indented with seven broad bays, each from one and a half to three miles
+      broad; that long broad spits of sand, overgrown with matete, separated
+      each bay from the other. The first, starting from west to east, at the
+      broadest part, to the extreme southern point of Mugihewa, was about three
+      miles broad, and served as a line of demarcation between Mukamba's
+      district of Ruwenga and Mugihewa of Ruhinga; it was also two miles deep.
+      The second bay was a mile from the southern extremity of Mugihewa to
+      Ruhinga's village at the head of the bay, and it was a mile across to
+      another spit of sand which was terminated by a small island. The third bay
+      stretched for nearly a mile to a long spit, at the end of which was
+      another island, one and a quarter mile in length, and was the western side
+      of the fourth bay, at the head of which was the delta of the Rusizi. This
+      fourth bay, at its base, was about three miles in depth, and penetrated
+      half a mile further inland than any other. Soundings indicated six feet
+      deep, and the same depth was kept to within a few hundred yards of the
+      principal mouth of the Rusizi. The current was very sluggish; not more
+      than a mile an hour. Though we constantly kept our binocular searching for
+      the river, we could not see the main channel until within 200 yards of it,
+      and then only by watching by what outlet the fishing; canoes came out. The
+      bay at this point had narrowed from two miles to about 200 yards in
+      breadth. Inviting a canoe to show us the way, a small flotilla of canoes
+      preceded us, from the sheer curiosity of their owners. We followed, and in
+      a few minutes were ascending the stream, which was very rapid, though but
+      about ten yards wide, and very shallow; not more than two feet deep. We
+      ascended about half a mile, the current being very strong, from six to
+      eight miles an hour, and quite far enough to observe the nature of the
+      stream at its embouchure. We could see that it widened and spread out in a
+      myriad of channels, rushing by isolated clumps of sedge and matete grass;
+      and that it had the appearance of a swamp. We had ascended the central, or
+      main channel. The western channel was about eight yards broad. We
+      observed, after we had returned to the bay, that the easternmost channel
+      was about six yards broad, and about ten feet deep, but very sluggish. We
+      had thus examined each of its three mouths, and settled all doubts as to
+      the Rusizi being an effluent or influent. It was not necessary to ascend
+      higher, there being nothing about the river itself to repay exploration of
+      it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The question, "Was the Rusizi an effluent or an influent?" was answered
+      for ever. There was now no doubt any more on that point. In size it was
+      not to be compared with the Malagarazi River, neither is it, or can it be,
+      navigable for anything but the smallest canoes. The only thing remarkable
+      about it is that it abounds in crocodiles, but not one hippopotamus was
+      seen; which may be taken as another evidence of its shallowness. The bays
+      to the east of the Rusizi are of the same conformation as those on the
+      west. Carefully judging from the width of the several bays from point to
+      point, and of the several spits which separate them, the breadth of the
+      lake may be said to be about twelve or fourteen miles. Had we contented
+      ourselves with simply looking at the conformation, and the meeting of the
+      eastern and western ranges, we should have said that the lake ended in a
+      point, as Captain Speke has sketched it on his map. But its exploration
+      dissolved that idea. Chamati Hill is the extreme northern termination of
+      the western range, and seems, upon a superficial examination, to abut
+      against the Ramata mountains of the eastern range, which are opposite
+      Chamati; but a valley about a mile in breadth separates the two ranges,
+      and through this valley the Rusizi flows towards the lake.* Though Chamati
+      terminates the western range, the eastern range continues for miles
+      beyond, north-westerly. After its issue from this broad gorge, the Rusizi
+      runs seemingly in a broad and mighty stream, through a wide alluvial
+      plain, its own formation, in a hundred channels, until, approaching the
+      lake, it flows into it by three channels only, as above described.
+      ______________ * After the patient investigation of the North end of the
+      Lake, and satisfying ourselves by personal observation that the Rusizi ran
+      into the Lake, the native rumor which Sir Samuel Baker brought home that
+      the Tanganika and the Albert N'Yanza have a water connection still finds
+      many believers! ______________
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I should not omit to state here, that though the Doctor and I have had to
+      contend against the strong current of the Rusizi River, as it flowed swift
+      and strong INTO the Tanganika, the Doctor still adheres to the conviction
+      that, whatever part the Rusizi plays, there must be an outlet to the
+      Tanganika somewhere, from the fact that all fresh-water lakes have
+      outlets, The Doctor is able to state his opinions and reasons far better
+      than I can find for him; and, lest I misconstrue the subject, I shall
+      leave it until he has an opportunity to explain them himself; which his
+      great knowledge of Africa will enable him to do with advantage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One thing is evident to me, and I believe to the Doctor, that Sir Samuel
+      Baker will have to curtail the Albert N'Yanza by one, if not two degrees
+      of latitude. That well-known traveller has drawn his lake far into the
+      territory of the Warundi, while Ruanda has been placed on the eastern
+      side; whereas a large portion of it, if not all, should be placed north of
+      what he has designated on his map as Usige. The information of such an
+      intelligent man as Ruhinga is not to be despised; for, if Lake Albert came
+      within a hundred miles of the Tanganika, he would surely have heard of its
+      existence, even if he had not seen it himself. Originally he came from
+      Mutumbi, and he has travelled from that country into Mugihewa, the
+      district he now governs. He has seen Mwezi, the great King of Urundi, and
+      describes him as a man about forty years old, and as a very good man.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our work was now done; there was nothing more to detain us at Mugihewa.
+      Ruhinga had been exceedingly kind, and given us one ox after another to
+      butcher and eat. Mukamba had done the same. Their women had supplied us
+      with an abundance of milk and butter, and we had now bounteous supplies of
+      both.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Doctor had taken a series of observations for latitude and longitude;
+      and Mugihewa was made out to be in 3 degrees 19 minutes S. latitude.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 7th December, early in the morning, we left Mugihewa, and rowing
+      past the southern extremity of the Katangara Islands, we approached the
+      highlands of Uashi near the boundary line between Mukamba's country and
+      Uvira. The boundary line is supposed to be a wide ravine, in the depths of
+      which is a grove of tall, beautiful, and straight-stemmed trees, out of
+      which the natives make their canoes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Passing Kanyamabengu River, which issues into the lake close to the
+      market-ground of Kirabula, the extreme point of Burton and Speke's
+      explorations of the Tanganika, we steered south along the western shore of
+      the lake for half an hour longer to Kavimba, where we halted to cook
+      breakfast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The village where lived Mruta, the King of Uvira, was in sight of our
+      encampment, and as we observed parties of men ascending and descending the
+      mountains much more often than we thought augured good to ourselves, we
+      determined to continue on our course south. Besides, there was a party of
+      disconsolate-looking Wajiji here, who had been plundered only a few days
+      before our arrival, for attempting, as the Wavira believed, to evade the
+      honga payment. Such facts as these, and our knowledge of the general state
+      of insecurity in the country, resulting from the many wars in which the
+      districts of the Tanganika were engaged, determined us not to halt at
+      Kavimba.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We embarked quickly in our boat before the Wavira had collected
+      themselves, and headed south against a strong gale, which came driving
+      down on us from the south-west. After a hard pull of about two hours in
+      the teeth of the storm, which was rapidly rising, we pointed the head of
+      the boat into a little quiet cove, almost hidden in tall reeds, and
+      disembarked for the night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Cognizant of the dangers which surrounded us, knowing, that savage and
+      implacable man was the worst enemy we had to fear, we employed our utmost
+      energies in the construction of a stout fence of thorn bushes, and then
+      sat down to supper after our work was done, and turned in to sleep; but
+      not before we had posted watchmen to guard our canoe, lest the daring
+      thieves of Uvira might abstract it, in which case we should have been in a
+      pretty plight, and in most unenviable distress.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At daybreak, leaving Kukumba Point after our humble breakfast of coffee,
+      cheese, and dourra cakes was despatched, we steered south once more. Our
+      fires had attracted the notice of the sharp-eyed and suspicious fishermen
+      of Kukumba; but our precautions and the vigilant watch we had set before
+      retiring, had proved an effectual safeguard against the Kivira thieves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The western shores of the lake as we proceeded were loftier, and more bold
+      than the wooded heights of Urundi and bearded knolls of Ujiji. A back
+      ridge&mdash;the vanguard of the mountains which rise beyond&mdash;disclosed
+      itself between the serrated tops of the front line of mountains, which
+      rose to a height of from 2,500 to 3,000 feet above the lake. Within the
+      folds of the front line of mountains rise isolated hills of considerable
+      magnitude, precipitous and abrupt, but scenically very picturesque. The
+      greater part of these hills have the rounded and smooth top, or are
+      tabularly summited. The ridge enfolding these hills shoots out, at
+      intervals, promontorial projections of gradual sloping outlines, which on
+      the map I have designated capes, or points. When rounding these points, up
+      went our compasses for the taking of bearings, and observing the
+      directions of all prominent objects of interest. Often these capes are
+      formed by the alluvial plains, through which we may be sure a river will
+      be found flowing. These pretty alluvial plains, enfolded on the south, the
+      west, and the north by a grand mountain arc, present most luxurious and
+      enchanting scenery. The vegetation seems to be of spontaneous growth.
+      Groups of the Elaeis Guineansis palm embowering some dun-brown village; an
+      array of majestic, superb growth of mvule trees; a broad extent covered
+      with vivid green sorghum stalks; parachute-like tops of mimosa; a line of
+      white sand, on which native canoes are drawn far above the reach of the
+      plangent, uneasy surf; fishermen idly reclining in the shade of a tree;&mdash;these
+      are the scenes which reveal themselves to us as we voyage in our canoe on
+      the Tanganika. When wearied with the romance of wild tropic scenes such as
+      these, we have but to lift our eyes to the great mountain tops looming
+      darkly and grandly on our right; to watch the light pencilling of the
+      cirrus, brushing their summits, as it is drifted toward the north by the
+      rising wind: to watch the changing forms which the clouds assume, from the
+      fleecy horizontal bars of the cirrus, to the denser, gloomier cumulus,
+      prognosticator of storm and rain, which soon settles into a portentous
+      group&mdash;Alps above Alps, one above another&mdash;and we know the storm
+      which was brewing is at hand, and that it is time to seek shelter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Passing Muikamba, we saw several groves of the tall mvule tree. As far as
+      Bemba the Wabembe occupy the mountain summits, while the Wavira cultivate
+      the alluvial plains along the base and lower slopes of the mountain. At
+      Bemba we halted to take in pieces of pipe-clay, in accordance with the
+      superstition of the Wajiji, who thought us certain of safe passage and
+      good fortune if we complied with the ancient custom.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Passing Ngovi, we came to a deep bend, which curved off to Cape Kabogi at
+      the distance of ten miles. About two-thirds of the way we arrived at a
+      group of islets, three in number, all very steep and rocky; the largest
+      about 300 feet in length at the base, and about 200 feet in breadth. Here
+      we made preparations to halt for the night. The inhabitants of the island
+      were a gorgeously-feathered old cock, which was kept as a propitiatory
+      offering to the spirit of the island, a sickly yellow-looking thrush, a
+      hammer-headed stork, and two fish-hawks, who, finding we had taken
+      possession of what had been religiously reserved for them, took flight to
+      the most western island, where from their perches they continued to eye us
+      most solemnly. As these islands were with difficulty pronounced by us as
+      Kavunvweh, the Doctor, seeing that they were the only objects we were
+      likely to discover, named them the "'New York Herald' Islets;" and, in
+      confirmation of the new designation given them, shook hands with me upon
+      it. Careful dead-reckoning settled them to be in lat. 3 degrees 41 minutes
+      S.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The summit of the largest island was well adapted to take bearings, and we
+      improved the opportunity, as most extensive views of the broad and lengthy
+      lake and surrounding lines of imposing mountains were attainable. The
+      Ramata Hills were clearly visible, and bore N.N.E. from it; Katanga Cape,
+      S.E. by S.; Sentakeyi, E.S.E.; Magala, E. by N.; south-western point of
+      Muzimu bore S., northern point of Muzimu island, S.S.E.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At dawn on the 9th December we prepared to resume our voyage. Once or
+      twice in the night we had been visited by fishermen, but our anxious
+      watchfulness prevented any marauding. It seemed to me, however, that the
+      people of the opposite shore, who were our visitors, were eagerly watching
+      an opportunity to pounce upon our canoe, or take us bodily for a prey; and
+      our men were considerably affected by these thoughts, if we may judge from
+      the hearty good-will with which they rowed away from our late encampment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Arriving at Cape Kabogi, we came to the territory of the Wasansi. We knew
+      we were abreast of a different tribe by the greeting "Moholo," which a
+      group of fishermen gave us; as that of the Wavira was "Wake," like that of
+      Urundi, Usige, and Uhha.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We soon sighted Cape Luvumba&mdash;a sloping projection of a mountain
+      ridge which shot far into the lake. As a storm was brewing, we steered for
+      a snug little cove that appeared before a village; and, drawing our canoe
+      from the water, began to set the tent, and make other preparations for
+      passing the night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As the natives appeared quiet and civil enough, we saw no reason to
+      suspect that they entertained any hostility to Arabs and Wangwana.
+      Accordingly we had our breakfast cooked, and as usual laid down for an
+      afternoon nap. I soon fell asleep, and was dreaming away in my tent, in
+      happy oblivion of the strife and contention that had risen since I had
+      gone to sleep, when I heard a voice hailing me with, "Master, master! get
+      up, quick. Here is a fight going to begin!" I sprang up, and snatching my
+      revolver belt from the gun-stand, walked outside. Surely, there appeared
+      to be considerable animus between the several factions; between a noisy,
+      vindictive-looking set of natives of the one part, and our people of the
+      other part. Seven or eight of our people had taken refuge behind the
+      canoe, and had their loaded guns half pointing at the passionate mob,
+      which was momentarily increasing in numbers, but I could not see the
+      Doctor anywhere.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Where is the Doctor?" I asked.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "He has gone over that hill, sir, with his compass," said Selim.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Anybody with him?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Susi and Chumah."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "You, Bombay, send two men off to warn the Doctor, and tell him to hurry
+      up here."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But just at this period the Doctor and his two men appeared on the brow of
+      the hill, looking down in a most complacent manner upon the serio-comic
+      scene that the little basin wherein we were encamped presented. For,
+      indeed, despite the serious aspect of it, there was much that was comical
+      blended with it&mdash;in a naked young man who&mdash;perfectly drunk,
+      barely able to stand on his feet&mdash;was beating the ground with his
+      only loin-cloth, screaming and storming away like a madman; declaring by
+      this, and by that, in his own choice language, that no Mgwana or Arab
+      should halt one moment on the sacred soil of Usansi. His father, the
+      Sultan, was as inebriated as himself, though not quite so violent in his
+      behaviour. In the meantime the Doctor arrived upon the scene, and Selim
+      had slipped my Winchester rifle, with the magazine full of cartridges,
+      into my hand. The Doctor calmly asked what was the matter, and was
+      answered by the Wajiji guides that the people wished us to leave, as they
+      were on hostile terms with the Arabs, because the eldest son of the Sultan
+      of Muzimu, the large island nearly opposite, had been beaten to death by a
+      Baluch, named Khamis, at Ujiji, because the young fellow had dared look
+      into his harem, and ever since peace had been broken between the Wasansi
+      and Arabs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After consulting with the guides, the Doctor and I came to the conclusion
+      that it were better that we should endeavour to pacify the Sultan by a
+      present, rather than take offence at a drunken boy's extravagant freak. In
+      his insane fury he had attempted to slash at one of my men with a billhook
+      he carried. This had been taken as a declaration of hostilities, and the
+      soldiers were ready enough to engage in war; but there was no necessity to
+      commence fighting with a drunken mob, who could have been cleared off the
+      ground with our revolvers alone had we desired it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Doctor, baring his arm, said to them that he was not a Mgwana, or an
+      Arab; but a white man; that Arabs and Wangwana had no such colour as we
+      had. We were white men, different people altogether from those whom they
+      were accustomed to see: that no black men had ever suffered injury from
+      white men. This seemed to produce great effect, for after a little gentle
+      persuasion the drunken youth, and his no less inebriate sire, were induced
+      to sit down to talk quietly. In their conversation with us, they
+      frequently referred to Mombo, the son of Kisesa, Sultan of Muzimu, who was
+      brutally murdered. "Yes, brutally murdered!" they exclaimed several times,
+      in their own tongue; illustrating, by a faithful pantomime, how the
+      unfortunate youth had died.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Livingstone continued talking with them in a mild, paternal way, and their
+      loud protestations against Arab cruelty were about to subside, when the
+      old Sultan suddenly rose up and began to pace about in an excited manner,
+      and in one of his perambulations deliberately slashed his leg with the
+      sharp blade of his spear, and then exclaimed that the Wangwana had wounded
+      him!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At this cry one half of the mob hastily took to flight, but one old woman,
+      who carried a strong staff with a carved lizard's body on its top,
+      commenced to abuse the chief with all the power of her voluble tongue,
+      charging him with a desire to have them all killed, and other women joined
+      in with her in advising him to be quiet, and accept the present we were
+      willing to give.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But it is evident that there was little needed to cause all men present in
+      that little hollow to begin a most sanguinary strife. The gentle, patient
+      bearing of the Doctor had more effect than anything else in making all
+      forbear bloodshed, while there was left the least chance of an amicable
+      settlement, and in the end it prevailed. The Sultan and his son were both
+      sent on their way rejoicing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While the Doctor conversed with them, and endeavoured to calm their fierce
+      passions, I had the tent struck, and the canoes launched, and the baggage
+      stowed, and when the negotiations had concluded amicably, I begged the
+      Doctor to jump into the boat, as this apparent peace was simply a lull
+      before a storm; besides, said I, there are two or three cowardly creatures
+      in the boat, who, in case of another disturbance, would not scruple to
+      leave both of us here.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From Cape Luvumba, about 4.30 P.M. we commenced pulling across; at 8 P.M.
+      we were abreast of Cape Panza, the northern extremity of the island of
+      Muzimu; at 6 A.M. we were southward of Bikari, and pulling for Mukungu, in
+      Urundi, at which place we arrived at 10 A.M., having been seventeen hours
+      and a half in crossing the lake, which, computing at two miles an hour,
+      may be said to be thirty-five miles direct breadth, and a little more than
+      forty-three miles from Cape Luvumba.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 11th of December, after seven hours' pulling, we arrived at
+      picturesque Zassi again; on the 12th, at the pretty cove of Niasanga; and
+      at 11 A.M. we had rounded past Bangwe, and Ujiji was before us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We entered the port very quietly, without the usual firing of guns, as we
+      were short of powder and ball. As we landed, our soldiers and the Arab
+      magnates came to the water's edge to greet us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mabruki had a rich budget to relate to us, of what had occurred during our
+      absence. This faithful man, left behind in charge of Livingstone's house,
+      had done most excellently. Kalulu had scalded himself, and had a frightful
+      raw sore on his chest in consequence. Mabruki had locked up Marora in
+      chains for wounding one of the asses. Bilali, the stuttering coward, a
+      bully of women, had caused a tumult in the market-place, and had been
+      sharply belaboured with the stick by Mabruki. And, above all most welcome,
+      was a letter I received from the American Consul at Zanzibar, dated June
+      11th, containing telegrams from Paris as late as April 22nd of the same
+      year! Poor Livingstone exclaimed, "And I have none. What a pleasant thing
+      it is to have a real and good friend!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our voyage on the Tanganika had lasted twenty-eight days, during which
+      time we had traversed over 300 miles of water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER XIV. &mdash; OUR JOURNEY FROM UJIJI TO UNYANYEMBE.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      We felt quite at home when we sat down on our black bear-skin, gay Persian
+      carpet and clean new mats, to rest with our backs to the wall, sipping our
+      tea with the air of comfortable men, and chat over the incidents of the
+      "picnic," as Livingstone persisted in calling our journey to the Rusizi.
+      It seemed as if old times, which we loved to recall, had come back again,
+      though our house was humble enough in its aspect, and our servants were
+      only naked barbarians; but it was near this house that I had met him&mdash;Livingstone&mdash;after
+      that eventful march from Unyanyembe; it was on this same veranda that I
+      listened to that wonderful story of his about those far, enchanting
+      regions west of the Lake Tanganika; it was in this same spot that I first
+      became acquainted with him; and ever since my admiration has been growing
+      for him, and I feel elated when he informs me that he must go to
+      Unyanyembe under my escort, and at my expense. The old mud walls and the
+      bare rafters, and the ancient thatched roof, and this queer-looking old
+      veranda, will have an historical interest for me while I live, and so,
+      while I can, I have taken pains and immortalized the humble old building
+      by a sketch.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have just said that my admiration for Livingstone has been growing. This
+      is true. The man that I was about to interview so calmly and complacently,
+      as I would interview any prominent man with the view of specially
+      delineating his nature, or detailing his opinions, has conquered me. I had
+      intended to interview him, report in detail what he said, picture his life
+      and his figure, then bow him my "au revoir," and march back. That he was
+      specially disagreeable and brusque in his manner, which would make me
+      quarrel with him immediately, was firmly fixed in my mind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But Livingstone&mdash;true, noble Christian, generous-hearted, frank man&mdash;acted
+      like a hero, invited me to his house, said he was glad to see me, and got
+      well on purpose to prove the truth of his statement, "You have brought new
+      life unto me;" and when I fell sick with the remittent fever, hovering
+      between life and death, he attended me like a father, and we have now been
+      together for more than a month.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Can you wonder, then, that I like this man, whose face is the reflex of
+      his nature, whose heart is essentially all goodness, whose aims are so
+      high, that I break out impetuously sometimes: "But your family, Doctor,
+      they would like to see you, oh! so much. Let me tempt you to come home
+      with me. I promise to carry you every foot of the way to the coast. You
+      shall have the finest donkey to ride that is in Unyanyembe. Your wants&mdash;you
+      have but to hint them, and they shall be satisfied. Let the sources of the
+      Nile go&mdash;do you come home and rest; then, after a year's rest, and
+      restored health, you can return and finish what you have to do."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But ever the answer was, "No, I should like to see my family very much
+      indeed. My children's letters affect me intensely; but I must not go home;
+      I must finish my task. It is only the want of supplies that has detained
+      me. I should have finished the discovery of the Nile by this, by tracing
+      it to its connection with either Baker's Lake, or Petherick's branch of
+      the Nile. If I had only gone one month further, I could have said, 'the
+      work is done."'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some of these men who had turned the Doctor back from his interesting
+      discoveries were yet in Ujiji, and had the Government Enfield rifles in
+      their hands, which they intended to retain until their wages had been paid
+      to them; but as they had received $60 advance each at Zanzibar from the
+      English Consul, with the understanding entered into by contract that they
+      should follow their master wherever he required them to go; and as they
+      had not only not gone where they were required to proceed with him, but
+      had baffled and thwarted him, it was preposterous that a few men should
+      triumph over the Doctor, by keeping the arms given to him by the Bombay
+      Government. I had listened to the Arab sheikhs, friends of the Doctor,
+      advising them in mild tones to give them up; I had witnessed the
+      mutineer's stubbornness; and it was then, on the burzani of Sayd bin
+      Majid's house, that I took advantage to open my mind on the subject, not
+      only for the benefit of the stubborn slaves, but also for the benefit of
+      the Arabs; and to tell them that it was well that I had found Livingstone
+      alive, for if they had but injured a hair of his head, I should have gone
+      back to the coast, to return with a party which would enable me to avenge
+      him. I had been waiting to see Livingstone's guns returned to him every
+      day, hoping that I should not have to use force; but when a month or more
+      had elapsed, and still the arms had not been returned, I applied for
+      permission to take them, which was granted. Susi, the gallant servant of
+      Dr. Livingstone, was immediately despatched with about a dozen armed men
+      to recover them, and in a few minutes we had possession of them without
+      further trouble.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Doctor had resolved to accompany me to Unyanyembe, in order to meet
+      his stores, which had been forwarded from Zanzibar, November 1st, 1870. As
+      I had charge of the escort, it was my duty to study well the several
+      routes to Unyanyembe from Ujiji. I was sufficiently aware of the
+      difficulties and the responsibilities attached to me while escorting such
+      a man. Besides, my own personal feelings were involved in the case. If
+      Livingstone came to any harm through any indiscretion of mine while he was
+      with me, it would immediately be said, "Ah! had he not accompanied
+      Stanley, he would have been alive now."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I took out my chart&mdash;the one I had made myself&mdash;in which I had
+      perfect faith, and I sketched out a route which would enable us to reach
+      Unyanyembe without paying a single cloth as tribute, and without
+      encountering any worse thing than a jungle, by which we could avoid all
+      the Wavinza and the plundering Wahha. This peaceable, secure route led by
+      water, south, along the coast of Ukaranga and Ukawendi, to Cape Tongwe.
+      Arriving at Cape Tongwe, I should be opposite the village of Itaga, Sultan
+      Imrera, in the district of Rusawa of Ukawendi; after which we should
+      strike my old road, which I had traversed from Unyanyembe, when bound for
+      Ujiji. I explained it to the Doctor, and he instantly recognised its
+      feasibility and security; and if I struck Imrera, as I proposed to do, it
+      would demonstrate whether my chart was correct or not.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We arrived at Ujiji from our tour of discovery, north of the Tanganika,
+      December 13th; and from this date the Doctor commenced writing his letters
+      to his numerous friends, and to copy into his mammoth Letts's Diary, from
+      his field books, the valuable information he had acquired during his years
+      of travel south and west of the Tanganika. I sketched him while sitting in
+      his shirt-sleeves in the veranda, with his Letts's Diary on his knee; and
+      the likeness on the frontispiece is an admirable portrait of him, because
+      the artist who has assisted me, has with an intuitive eye, seen the
+      defects in my own sketch; and by this I am enabled to restore him to the
+      reader's view exactly as I saw him&mdash;as he pondered on what he had
+      witnessed during his long marches.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Soon after my arrival at Ujiji, he had rushed to his paper, and indited a
+      letter to James Gordon Bennett, Esq., wherein he recorded his thanks; and
+      after he had finished it, I asked him to add the word "Junior" to it, as
+      it was young Mr. Bennett to whom he was indebted. I thought the letter
+      admirable, and requested the Doctor not to add another word to it. The
+      feelings of his heart had found expression in the grateful words he had
+      written; and if I judged Mr. Bennett rightly, I knew he would be satisfied
+      with it. For it was not the geographical news he cared so much about, as
+      the grand fact of Livingstone's being alive or dead.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this latter part of December he was writing letters to his children, to
+      Sir Roderick Murchison, and to Lord Granville. He had intended to have
+      written to the Earl of Clarendon, but it was my sad task to inform him of
+      the death of that distinguished nobleman.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime I was preparing the Expedition for its return march to
+      Unyanyembe, apportioning the bales and luggage, the Doctor's large tin
+      boxes, and my own among my own men; for I had resolved upon permitting the
+      Doctor's men to march as passengers, because they had so nobly performed
+      their duty to their master.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sayd bin Majid had left, December 12, for Mirambo's country, to give the
+      black Bonaparte battle for the murder of his son Soud in the forests of
+      Wilyankuru; and he had taken with him 300 stout fellows, armed with guns,
+      from Ujiji. The stout-hearted old chief was burning with rage and
+      resentment, and a fine warlike figure he made with his 7-foot gun. Before
+      we had departed for the Rusizi, I had wished him bon voyage, and expressed
+      a hope that he would rid the Central African world of the tyrant Mirambo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 20th of December the rainy season was ushered in with heavy rain,
+      thunder, lightning, and hail; the thermometer falling to 66 degrees
+      Fahrenheit. The evening of this day I was attacked with urticaria, or
+      "nettle rash," for the third time since arriving in Africa, and I suffered
+      a woeful sickness; and it was the forerunner of an attack of remittent
+      fever, which lasted four days. This is the malignant type, which has
+      proved fatal to so many African travellers on the Zambezi, the White Nile,
+      the Congo, and the Niger. The head throbs, the pulses bound, the heart
+      struggles painfully, while the sufferer's thoughts are in a strange world,
+      such only as a sick man's fancy can create. This was the fourth attack of
+      fever since the day I met Livingstone. The excitement of the march, and
+      the high hope which my mind constantly nourished, had kept my body almost
+      invincible against an attack of fever while advancing towards Ujiji; but
+      two weeks after the great event had transpired my energies were relaxed,
+      my mind was perfectly tranquil, and I became a victim.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Christmas came, and the Doctor and I had resolved upon the blessed and
+      time-honoured day being kept as we keep it in Anglo-Saxon lands, with a
+      feast such as Ujiji could furnish us. The fever had quite gone from me the
+      night before, and on Christmas morning, though exceedingly weak, I was up
+      and dressed, and lecturing Ferajji, the cook, upon the importance of this
+      day to white men, and endeavouring to instil into the mind of the sleek
+      and pampered animal some cunning secrets of the culinary art. Fat
+      broad-tailed sheep, goats, zogga and pombe, eggs, fresh milk, plantains,
+      singwe, fine cornflour, fish, onions, sweet potatoes, &amp;c., &amp;c.,
+      were procured in the Ujiji market, and from good old Moeni Kheri. But,
+      alas! for my weakness. Ferajji spoiled the roast, and our custard was
+      burned&mdash;the dinner was a failure. That the fat-brained rascal escaped
+      a thrashing was due only to my inability to lift my hands for punishment;
+      but my looks were dreadful and alarming, and capable of annihilating any
+      one except Ferajji. The stupid, hard-headed cook only chuckled, and I
+      believe he had the subsequent gratification of eating the pies, custards,
+      and roast that his carelessness had spoiled for European palates.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sayd bin Majid, previous to his departure, had left orders that we should
+      be permitted to use his canoe for our homeward trip, and Moeni Kheri
+      kindly lent his huge vessel for the same purpose. The Expedition, now
+      augmented by the Doctor and his five servants, and their luggage,
+      necessitated the employment of another canoe. We had our flocks of
+      milch-goats and provision of fat sheep for the jungle of Ukawendi, the
+      transit of which I was about to attempt. Good Halimah, Livingstone's cook,
+      had made ready a sackful of fine flour, such as she only could prepare in
+      her fond devotion for her master. Hamoydah, her husband, also had freely
+      given his assistance and attention to this important article of food. I
+      purchased a donkey for the Doctor, the only one available in Ujiji, lest
+      the Doctor might happen to suffer on the long march from his ancient
+      enemy. In short, we were luxuriously furnished with food, sheep, goats,
+      cheese, cloth, donkeys, and canoes, sufficient to convey us a long
+      distance; we needed nothing more.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The 27th of December has arrived; it is the day of our departure from
+      Ujiji. I was probably about to give an eternal farewell to the port whose
+      name will for ever be sacred in my memory. The canoes&mdash;great
+      lumbering hollow trees&mdash;are laden with good things; the rowers are in
+      their places; the flag of England is hoisted at the stern of the Doctor's
+      canoe; the flag of America waves and rustles joyously above mine; and I
+      cannot look at them without feeling a certain pride that the two
+      Anglo-Saxon nations are represented this day on this great inland sea, in
+      the face of wild nature and barbarism.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We are escorted to our boats by the great Arab merchants, by the admiring
+      children of Unyamwezi, by the freemen of Zanzibar, by wondering Waguhha
+      and Wajiji, by fierce Warundi, who are on this day quiet, even sorrowful,
+      that the white men are going-"Whither?" they all ask.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At 8 A.M. we start, freely distributing our farewells as the Arabs and
+      quidnuncs wave their hands. On the part of one or two of them there was an
+      attempt to say something sentimental and affecting, especially by the
+      convicted sinner Mohammed bin Sali; but though outwardly I manifested no
+      disapprobation of his words, or of the emphatic way in which he shook my
+      hand, I was not sorry to see the last of him, after his treachery to
+      Livingstone in 1869. I was earnestly requested to convey to Unyanyembe
+      "Mengi salaams" to everybody, but had I done so, as he evidently desired
+      me to do, I would not have been surprised at being regarded by all as
+      hopelessly imbecile.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We pushed off from the clayey bank at the foot of the market-place, while
+      the land party, unencumbered with luggage, under the leadership of
+      gigantic Asmani and Bombay, commenced their journey southward along the
+      shores of the lake. We had arranged to meet them at the mouth of every
+      river to transport them across from bank to bank.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Doctor being in Sayd bin Majid's boat, which was a third or so shorter
+      than the one under my command, took the lead, with the British flag, held
+      aloft by a bamboo, streaming behind like a crimson meteor. My boat-manned
+      by Wajiji sailors, whom we had engaged to take the canoes back from Tongwe
+      Cape to Ujiji Bunder&mdash;came astern, and had a much taller flagstaff,
+      on which was hoisted the ever-beautiful Stars and Stripes. Its extreme
+      height drew from the Doctor&mdash;whose patriotism and loyalty had been
+      excited&mdash;the remark that he would cut down the tallest palmyra for
+      his flagstaff, as it was not fitting that the British flag should be so
+      much lower than that of the United States.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our soldiers were not a whit behind us in lightheartedness at the thought
+      of going to Unyanyembe. They struck up the exhilarating song of the
+      Zanzibar boatmen, with the ecstatic chorus&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Kinan de re re Kitunga,
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      rowing away like madmen, until they were compelled to rest from sheer
+      exhaustion, while the perspiration exuded from the pores of their bodies
+      in streams. When refreshed, they bent back to their oars, raising the song
+      of the Mrima&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     O mama, re de mi Ky,
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      which soon impelled them to an extravagant effort again, It was by this
+      series of ferocious spurts, racing, shouting, singing, perspiring,
+      laughing, groaning, and puffing, that our people vented their joyous
+      feelings, as the thought filled their minds that we were homeward bound,
+      and that by the route I had adopted between us and Unyanyembe there was
+      not the least danger.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+       We have given the Waha, the slip! ha, ha!
+       The Wavinza will trouble us no more! ho! ho!
+     Mionvu can get no more cloth from us! by,by!
+     And Kiala will see us no more&mdash;-never more! he, he!
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      they shouted with wild bursts of laughter, seconded by tremendous and
+      rapid strokes with their oars, which caused the stiff old canoes to quiver
+      from stem to stern.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our party ashore seemed to partake of our excitement, and joined in the
+      wild refrain of the mad African song. We watched them urging their steps
+      forward to keep pace with us, as we rounded the capes and points, and
+      rowed across the bays whose margins were sedge, and rush, and reed; the
+      tiny and agile Kalulu, little Bilali, and Majwara were seen racing the
+      herds of goats, sheep, and donkeys which belonged to the caravan, and the
+      animals even seemed to share the general joy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nature, also&mdash;proud, wild nature-0-with the lofty azure dome upheaved
+      into infinity&mdash;with her breadth and depth of vivid greenness and
+      enormous vastness on our left&mdash;with her immense sheet of bright,
+      glancing water&mdash;with her awful and intense serenity&mdash;she partook
+      of and added to our joy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About 10 A.M. we arrived at Kirindo's, an old chief, noted for his
+      singular kindness to Dr. Livingstone, while he bore animosity to the
+      Arabs. To the Arabs this was unaccountable&mdash;to the Doctor it was
+      plain: he had but spoken kind and sincere words, while all the Arabs spoke
+      to him as if he were not even a man, least of all a chief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kirindo's place is at the mouth of the Liuche, which is very wide; the
+      river oozes out through a forest of eschinomenae (pith tree). This was a
+      rendezvous agreed upon between shore and lake parties, that the canoes
+      might all cross to the other side, distant a mile and a half. The mouth of
+      the Liuche forms the Bay of Ukaranga, so named because on the other side,
+      whither we were about to cross our party, was situated the village of
+      Ukaranga, a few hundred yards from the lake. All the baggage was taken out
+      of the largest canoe, and stowed snugly in the smaller one, and a few
+      select oarsmen having taken seats, pushed off with the Doctor on board,
+      who was to superintend pitching the encampment at Ukaranga; while I
+      remained behind to bind the fractious and ill-natured donkeys, and stow
+      them away in the bottom of the large canoe, that no danger of upsetting
+      might be incurred, and a consequent gobbling-up by hungry crocodiles,
+      which were all about us waiting their opportunity. The flock of goats were
+      then embarked, and as many of our people as could be got in. About thirty
+      still remained behind with myself, for whom my canoe was to return.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We all arrived safe at Ukaranga, though we got dangerously near a herd of
+      hippopotami. The crossing of the wide mouth (the Liuche being then in
+      flood) was effected in about four hours.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day, in the same order as on our departure from Ujiji, we pursued
+      our way south, the lake party keeping as closely as possible to the shore,
+      yet, when feasible, wind and weather permitting, we struck off boldly
+      across the numerous small bays which indent the shores of the Tanganika.
+      The shores were beautifully green, the effect of the late rains; the
+      waters of the lake were a faithful reflex of the blue firmament above. The
+      hippopotami were plentiful. Those noticed on this day were coloured with
+      reddish rings round the base of their ears and on the neck. One monster,
+      coming up rather late, was surprised by the canoe making full for him, and
+      in great fright took a tremendous dive which showed the whole length of
+      his body. Half way between the mouth of the Malagarazi and that of the
+      Liuche we saw a camp on shore&mdash;that of Mohammed bin Gharib, a
+      Msawahili, who figured often in Livingstone's verbal narrative to me of
+      his adventures and travels as one of the kindest and best of the Moslems
+      in Central Africa. He appeared to me a kindly disposed man, with a face
+      seldom seen, having the stamp of an unusual characteristic on it&mdash;that
+      of sincerity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The vegetation of the shores as we proceeded was truly tropical, each
+      curve revealed new beauties. With the soft chalky stone, of which most of
+      the cliffs and bluffs are made, seen as we neared the mouth of the
+      Malagarazi, the surf has played strange freaks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We arrived at the mouth of the Malagarazi about P.M., having rowed
+      eighteen miles from Ukaranga. The shore party arrived, very much fatigued,
+      about 5 P.M.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day was employed in crossing the caravan across the broad mouth
+      of the Malagarazi to our camp, a couple of miles north of the river. This
+      is a river which a civilised community would find of immense advantage for
+      shortening the distance between the Tanganika and the coast. Nearly one
+      hundred miles might be performed by this river, which is deep enough at
+      all seasons to allow navigation as far as Kiala, in Uvinza, whence a
+      straight road might be easily made to Unyanyembe. Missionaries also might
+      reap the same benefit from it for conversion-tours to Uvinza, Uhha, and
+      Ugala. Pursuing our way on the 30th, and rounding the picturesque capes of
+      Kagongo, Mviga and Kivoe, we came, after about three hours' rowing, in
+      sight of villages at the mouth of the swift and turbid Rugufu. Here we had
+      again to transport the caravan ever the crocodile-infested mouth of the
+      river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the morning of the 31st we sent a canoe with men to search for food in
+      the two or three villages that were visible on the other side. Four doti
+      purchased just sufficient for four days for our caravan of forty-eight
+      persons. We then got under weigh, having informed the kirangozi that
+      Urimba was our destination, and bidding him keep as closely as possible to
+      the lake shore, where it was practicable, but if not, to make the best he
+      could of it. From the debouchement of the Rugufu, the headwaters of which
+      we had crossed on our random route to Ujiji, to Urimba, a distance of six
+      days by water, there are no villages, and consequently no food. The shore
+      party, however, before leaving Ujiji, had eight days' rations, and on this
+      morning four days', distributed to each person, and therefore was in no
+      danger of starvation should the mountain headlands, now unfolding, abrupt
+      and steep, one after another, prevent them from communicating with us. It
+      must be understood that such a journey as this had never been attempted
+      before by any Arab or Msawahili, and every step taken was in sheer
+      ignorance of where the road would lead the men ashore. Rounding Kivoe's
+      steep promontory, whose bearded ridge and rugged slope, wooded down to the
+      water's edge, whose exquisite coves and quiet recesses, might well have
+      evoked a poetical effusion to one so inclined, we dared the chopping waves
+      of Kivoe's bay, and stood direct for the next cape, Mizohazy, behind
+      which, owing to wind and wave, we were compelled to halt for the night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After Mizohazy is the bold cape of Kabogo&mdash;not the terrible Kabogo
+      around whose name mystery has been woven by the superstitious natives&mdash;not
+      the Kabogo whose sullen thunder and awful roar were heard when crossing
+      the Rugufu on our flight from the Wahha&mdash;-but a point in Ukaranga, on
+      whose hard and uninviting rocks many a canoe has been wrecked. We passed
+      close to its forbidding walls, thankful for the calm of the Tanganika.
+      Near Kabogo are some very fine mvule trees, well adapted for canoe
+      building, and there are no loud-mouthed natives about to haggle for the
+      privilege of cutting them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Along the water's edge, and about three feet above it, was observed very
+      clearly on the smooth face of the rocky slopes of Kabogo the high-water
+      mark of the lake. This went to show that the Tanganika, during the rainy
+      season, rises about three feet above its dry season level, and that,
+      during the latter season, evaporation reduces it to its normal level. The
+      number of rivers which we passed on this journey enabled me to observe
+      whether, as I was told, there was any current setting north. It was
+      apparent to me that, while the south-west, south, or south-east winds
+      blew, the brown flood of the rivers swept north; but it happened that,
+      while passing, once or twice, the mouths of rivers, after a puff from the
+      north-west and north, that the muddied waters were seen southward of the
+      mouths; from which I conclude that there is no current in the Tanganika
+      except such as is caused by the fickle wind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Finding a snug nook of a bay at a place called Sigunga, we put in for
+      lunch. An island at the mouth of the bay suggested to our minds that this
+      was a beautiful spot for a mission station; the grandly sloping hills in
+      the background, with an undulating shelf of land well-wooded between them
+      and the bay, added to the attractions of such a spot. The island, capable
+      of containing quite a large village, and perfectly defensible, might, for
+      prudence' sake, contain the mission and its congregation; the landlocked
+      bay would protect their fishery and trade vessels; more than sustain a
+      hundred times the number of the population of the island. Wood for
+      building their canoes and houses is close at hand; the neighbouring
+      country would afford game in abundance; and the docile and civil people of
+      Ukaranga but wait religious shepherds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From beautiful Sigunga, after a brief halt, we set off, and, after three
+      hours, arrived at the mouth of the River Uwelasia. Hippopotami and
+      crocodiles being numerous; we amused ourselves by shooting at them, having
+      also a hope of attracting the attention of our shore party, the sound of
+      whose guns we had not heard since leaving the Rugufu.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 3rd of January we left Uwelasia, and, passing by Cape Herembe, were
+      in the bay of Tongwe. This bay is about twenty-five miles broad, and
+      stretches from Cape Herembe to Cape Tongwe. Finding themselves so near
+      their destination, Urimba being but six miles from Herembe Point, the men
+      of both boats bent themselves to their oars, and, with shouts, songs, and
+      laughter, encouraged each other to do their utmost. The flags of the two
+      great Anglo-Saxon nations rippled and played in the soft breeze, sometimes
+      drawing near caressingly together, again bending away, like two lovers coy
+      to unite. The tight little boat of the Doctor would keep ahead, and the
+      crimson and crossed flag of England would wave before me, and it seemed to
+      say to the beautiful laggard astern, "Come on, come on; England leads the
+      way." But was it not England's place to be in the front here? She won the
+      right to it by discovering the Tanganika; America came but second.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Urimba, though a large district of Kawendi, has a village of the same name
+      peopled by refugees from Yombeh, who found the delta of the Loajeri,
+      though the unhealthiest of spots&mdash;equal to that of the Rusizi&mdash;far
+      preferable to the neighbourhood of Sultan Pumburu, of Southern Kawendi. A
+      good chase by the victors seems to have given a shock to their systems,
+      for they are very timid and distrustful of strangers, and would by no
+      means permit us to enter their village, of which, to say the truth, I was
+      very glad, after a glance at the reeking corruption on which they were
+      encamped. In the immediate neighbourhood&mdash;nay, for a couple of miles
+      on either side&mdash;I should suppose that to a white man it were death to
+      sleep a single night. Leading the way south of the village, I found a fit
+      camping-place at the extreme south-east corner of Tongwe Bay, about a mile
+      and a half due west of the lofty peak of Kivanga, or Kakungu. By an
+      observation taken by the Doctor, we found ourselves to be in latitude 5
+      degrees 54 minutes south.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      None of the natives had heard of our shore party, and, as the delta of the
+      Loajeri and Mogambazi extended for about fifteen miles, and withal was the
+      most impassable of places, being perfectly flat, overgrown with the
+      tallest of matete, eschinomenae, and thorny bush, and flooded with water,
+      it was useless to fatigue our men searching for the shore party in such an
+      inhospitable country. No provisions were procurable, for the villages were
+      in a state of semi-starvation, the inhabitants living from hand to mouth
+      on what reluctant Fortune threw into their nets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The second day of our arrival at Urimba I struck off into the interior
+      with my gun-bearer, Kalulu, carrying the Doctor's splendid double-barreled
+      rifle (a Reilly, No. 12), on the search for venison. After walking about a
+      mile I came to a herd of zebras. By creeping on all-fours I managed to
+      come within one hundred yards of them; but I was in a bad spot&mdash;low
+      prickly shrubs; and tsetse flies alighting on the rifle-sight, biting my
+      nose, and dashing into my eyes, completely disconcerted me; and, to add to
+      my discontent, my efforts to disengage myself from the thorns, alarmed the
+      zebras, which all stood facing the suspicious object in the bush. I fired
+      at the breast of one, but, as might be expected, missed. The zebras
+      galloped away to about three hundred yards off, and I dashed into the
+      open, and, hastily cocking the left-hand trigger, aimed at a proud fellow
+      trotting royally before his fellows, and by good chance sent a bullet
+      through his heart. A fortunate shot also brought down a huge goose, which
+      had a sharp horny spur on the fore part of each wing. This supply of meat
+      materially contributed towards the provisioning of the party for the
+      transit of the unknown land that lay between us and Mrera, in Rusawa,
+      Kawendi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was not until the third day of our arrival at our camp at Urimba that
+      our shore party arrived. They had perceived our immense flag hoisted on a
+      twenty-feet long bamboo above the tallest tree near our camp as they
+      surmounted the sharp lofty ridge behind Nerembe, fifteen miles off, and
+      had at first taken it for a huge bird; but there were sharp eyes in the
+      crowd, and, guided by it, they came to camp, greeted as only lost and
+      found men are greeted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I suffered from another attack of fever at this camp, brought on by the
+      neighbourhood of the vile delta, the look of which sickened the very heart
+      in me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 7th of January we struck camp, and turned our faces eastward, and
+      for me, home! Yet regretfully! There had been enough happiness and
+      pleasure, and pleasantest of social companionship found on the shores of
+      the lake for me. I had seen enough lovely scenes which, siren-like,
+      invited one to quiet rest; gentle scenes, where there was neither jar nor
+      tumult, neither strife nor defeat, neither hope nor disappointment, but
+      rest-a drowsy, indolent, yet pleasant rest. And only a few drawbacks to
+      these. There was fever; there were no books, no newspapers, no wife of my
+      own race and blood, no theatres, no hotels, no restaurants, no East River
+      oysters, no mince-pies, neither buckwheat cakes, nor anything much that
+      was good for a cultivated palate to love. So, in turning to say farewell
+      to the then placid lake and the great blue mountains, that grew bluer as
+      they receded on either hand, I had the courage to utter that awful word
+      tearlessly, and without one sigh.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our road led up through the valley of the Loajeri, after leaving its
+      delta, a valley growing ever narrower, until it narrowed into a ravine
+      choked by the now roaring, bellowing river, whose resistless rush seemed
+      to affect the very air we breathed. It was getting oppressive, this
+      narrowing ravine, and opportunely the road breasted a knoll, then a
+      terrace, then a hill, and lastly a mountain, where we halted to encamp. As
+      we prepared to select a camping-place, the Doctor silently pointed
+      forward, and suddenly a dead silence reigned everywhere. The quinine which
+      I had taken in the morning seemed to affect me in every crevice of my
+      brain; but a bitter evil remained, and, though I trembled under the heavy
+      weight of the Reilly rifle, I crept forward to where the Doctor was
+      pointing. I found myself looking down a steep ravine, on the other bank of
+      which a fine buffalo cow was scrambling upward. She had just reached the
+      summit, and was turning round to survey her enemy, when I succeeded in
+      planting a shot just behind the shoulder blade, and close to the spine,
+      evoking from her a deep bellow of pain. "She is shot! she is shot!"
+      exclaimed the Doctor; "that is a sure sign you have hit her." And the men
+      even raised a shout at the prospect of meat. A second, planted in her
+      spine, brought her to her knees, and a third ended her. We thus had
+      another supply of provisions, which, cut up and dried over a fire, as the
+      Wangwana are accustomed to do, would carry them far over the unpeopled
+      wilderness before us. For the Doctor and myself, we had the tongue, the
+      hump, and a few choice pieces salted down, and in a few days had prime
+      corned beef. It is not inapt to state that the rifle had more
+      commendations bestowed on it than the hunter by the Wangwana.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day we continued the march eastward, under the guidance of our
+      kirangozi; but it was evident, by the road he led us, that he knew nothing
+      of the country, though, through his volubility, he had led us to believe
+      that he knew all about Ngondo, Yombeh, and Pumburu's districts. When
+      recalled from the head of the caravan, we were about to descend into the
+      rapid Loajeri, and beyond it were three ranges of impassable mountains,
+      which we were to cross in a north-easterly direction; quite out of our
+      road. After consulting with the Doctor, I put myself at the head of the
+      caravan, and following the spine of the ridge, struck off due east,
+      regardless of how the road ran. At intervals a travelled road crossed our
+      path, and, after following it a while, we came to the ford of the Loajeri.
+      The Loajeri rises south and south-east of Kakungu Peak. We made the best
+      we could of the road after crossing the river, until we reached the main
+      path that runs from Karah to Ngondo and Pumburu, in Southern Kawendi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 9th, soon after leaving camp, we left the travelled path, and made
+      for a gap in the are of hills before us, as Pumburu was at war with the
+      people of Manya Msenge, a district of northern Kawendi. The country teemed
+      with game, the buffaloes and zebras were plentiful. Among the conspicuous
+      trees were the hyphene and borassus palm trees, and a tree bearing a fruit
+      about the size of a 600-pounder cannon-ball, called by some natives
+      "mabyah,"* according to the Doctor, the seeds of which are roasted and
+      eaten. They are not to be recommended as food to Europeans.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * In the Kisawahili tongue, "mabyah," "mbyah, "byah," mean
+     bad, unpleasant.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      On the 10th, putting myself at the head of my men, with my compass in
+      hand, I led the way east for three hours. A beautiful park-land was
+      revealed to us; but the grass was very tall, and the rainy season, which
+      had commenced in earnest, made my work excessively disagreeable. Through
+      this tall grass, which was as high as my throat, I had to force my way,
+      compass in hand, to lead the Expedition, as there was not the least sign
+      of a road, and we were now in an untravelled country. We made our camp on
+      a beautiful little stream flowing north; one of the feeders of the Rugufu
+      River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The 11th still saw me plunging through the grass, which showered drops of
+      rain on me every time I made a step forward. In two hours we crossed a
+      small stream, with slippery syenitic rocks in its bed, showing the action
+      of furious torrents. Mushrooms were in abundance, and very large. In
+      crossing, an old pagazi of Unyamwezi, weather-beaten, uttered, in a
+      deplorable tone, "My kibuyu is dead;" by which he meant that he had
+      slipped, and in falling had broken his gourd, which in Kisawahili is
+      "kibuyu."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the eastern bank we halted for lunch, and, after an hour and a half's
+      march, arrived at another stream, which I took to be the Mtambu, at first
+      from the similarity of the land, though my map informed me that it was
+      impossible. The scenery around was very similar, and to the north we had
+      cited a similar tabular hill to the "Magdala" Mount I had discovered north
+      of Imrera, while going to the Malagarazi. Though we had only travelled
+      three and a half hours the Doctor was very tired as the country was
+      exceedingly rough.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day, crossing several ranges, with glorious scenes of surpassing
+      beauty everywhere around us, we came in view of a mighty and swift
+      torrent, whose bed was sunk deep between enormous lofty walls of sandstone
+      rock, where it roared and brawled with the noise of a little Niagara.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having seen our camp prepared on a picturesque knoll, I thought I would
+      endeavour to procure some meat, which this interesting region seemed to
+      promise. I sallied out with my little Winchester along the banks of the
+      river eastward. I travelled for an hour or two, the prospect getting more
+      picturesque and lovely, and then went up a ravine which looked very
+      promising. Unsuccessful, I strode up the bank, and my astonishment may be
+      conceived when I found myself directly in front of an elephant, who had
+      his large broad ears held out like studding sails&mdash;the colossal
+      monster, the incarnation of might of the African world. Methought when I
+      saw his trunk stretched forward, like a warning finger, that I heard a
+      voice say, "Siste, Venator!" But whether it did not proceed from my
+      imagination or&mdash;No; I believe it proceeded from Kalulu, who must have
+      shouted, "Tembo, tembo! bana yango!" "Lo! an elephant! an elephant, my
+      master!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For the young rascal had fled as soon as he had witnessed the awful
+      colossus in such close vicinage. Recovering from my astonishment, I
+      thought it prudent to retire also&mdash;especially, with a pea-shooter
+      loaded with treacherous sawdust cartridges in my hand. As I looked behind,
+      I saw him waving his trunk, which I understood to mean, "Good-bye, young
+      fellow; it is lucky for you you went in time, for I was going to pound you
+      to a jelly."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As I was congratulating myself, a wasp darted fiercely at me and planted
+      its sting in my neck, and for that afternoon my anticipated pleasures were
+      dispelled. Arriving at camp I found the men grumbling; their provisions
+      were ended, and there was no prospect for three days, at least, of
+      procuring any. With the improvidence usual with the gluttons, they had
+      eaten their rations of grain, all their store of zebra and dried buffalo
+      meat, and were now crying out that they were famished.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The tracks of animals were numerous, but it being the rainy season the
+      game was scattered everywhere; whereas, had we travelled during the dry
+      season through these forests our larders might have been supplied fresh
+      each day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some time about 6 P.M., as the Doctor and I were taking our tea outside
+      the tent, a herd of elephants, twelve in number, passed about 800 yards
+      off. Our fundi, Asmani and Mabruki Kisesa, were immediately despatched in
+      pursuit. I would have gone myself with the heavy Reilly rifle, only I was
+      too much fatigued. We soon heard their guns firing, and hoped they were
+      successful, as a plentiful supply of meat might then have been procured,
+      while we ourselves would have secured one of the elephant's feet for a
+      nice delicate roast; but within an hour they returned unsuccessful, having
+      only drawn blood, some of which they exhibited to us on a leaf.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It requires a very good rifle to kill an African elephant. A No. 8 bore
+      with a Frazer's shell, planted in the temple, I believe, would drop an
+      elephant each shot. Faulkner makes some extraordinary statements, about
+      walking up in front of an elephant and planting a bullet in his forehead,
+      killing him instantly. The tale, however, is so incredible that I would
+      prefer not to believe it; especially when he states that the imprint of
+      the muzzle of his rifle was on the elephant's trunk. African travellers&mdash;especially
+      those with a taste for the chase&mdash;are too fond of relating that which
+      borders on the incredible for ordinary men to believe them. Such stories
+      must be taken with a large grain of salt, for the sake of the amusement
+      they afford to readers at home. In future, whenever I hear a man state how
+      he broke the back of an antelope at 600 yards, I shall incline to believe
+      a cipher had been added by a slip of the pen, or attribute it to a
+      typographical error, for this is almost an impossible feat in an African
+      forest. It may be done once, but it could never be done twice running. An
+      antelope makes a very small target at 600 yards distance; but, then, all
+      these stories belong by right divine to the chasseur who travels to Africa
+      for the sake only of sport.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 13th we continued our march across several ridges; and the series
+      of ascents and descents revealed to us valleys and mountains never before
+      explored streams; rushing northward, swollen by the rains, and grand
+      primeval forests, in whose twilight shade no white man ever walked before.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 14th the same scenes were witnessed&mdash;an unbroken series of
+      longitudinal ridges, parallel one with another and with Lake Tanganika.
+      Eastward the faces of these ridges present abrupt scarps and terraces,
+      rising from deep valleys, while the western declivities have gradual
+      slopes. These are the peculiar features of Ukawendi, the eastern watershed
+      of the Tanganika.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In one of these valleys on this day we came across a colony of
+      reddish-bearded monkeys, whose howls, or bellowing, rang amongst the
+      cliffs as they discovered the caravan. I was not able to approach them,
+      for they scrambled up trees and barked their defiance at me, then bounded
+      to the ground as I still persisted in advancing; and they would have soon
+      drawn me in pursuit if I had not suddenly remembered that my absence was
+      halting the Expedition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About noon we sighted our Magdala&mdash;the grand towering mount whose
+      upright frowning mass had attracted our eyes, as it lifted itself from
+      above the plain in all its grandeur, when we were hurrying along the great
+      ridge of Rusawa towards the "Crocodile" River. We recognised the old,
+      mystic beauty of the tree-clad plain around it. Then it was bleached, and
+      a filmy haze covered it lovingly; now it was vivid greenness. Every
+      vegetable, plant, herb and tree, had sprung into quick life&mdash;the
+      effect of the rains. Rivers that ran not in those hot summer days now
+      fumed and rushed impetuously between thick belts of mighty timber,
+      brawling hoarsely in the glades. We crossed many of these streams, all of
+      which are feeders of the Rugufu.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Beautiful, bewitching Ukawendi! By what shall I gauge the loveliness of
+      the wild, free, luxuriant, spontaneous nature within its boundaries? By
+      anything in Europe? No. By anything in Asia? Where? India, perhaps. Yes;
+      or say Mingrelia and Imeritia. For there we have foaming rivers; we have
+      picturesque hillocks; we have bold hills, ambitious mountains, and broad
+      forests, with lofty solemn rows of trees, with clean straight stems,
+      through which you can see far, lengthy vistas, as you see here. Only in
+      Ukawendi you can almost behold the growth of vegetation; the earth is so
+      generous, nature so kind and loving, that without entertaining any
+      aspiration for a residence, or a wish to breathe the baleful atmosphere
+      longer than is absolutely necessary, one feels insensibly drawn towards
+      it, as the thought creeps into his mind, that though all is foul beneath
+      the captivating, glamorous beauty of the land, the foulness might be
+      removed by civilized people, and the whole region made as healthy as it is
+      productive. Even while staggering under the pressure of the awful
+      sickness, with mind getting more and more embittered, brain sometimes
+      reeling with the shock of the constantly recurring fevers&mdash;though I
+      knew how the malaria, rising out of that very fairness, was slowly
+      undermining my constitution, and insidiously sapping the powers of mind
+      and body&mdash;I regarded the alluring face of the land with a fatuous
+      love, and felt a certain sadness steal over me as each day I was
+      withdrawing myself from it, and felt disposed to quarrel with the fate
+      that seemed to eject me out of Ukawendi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the ninth day of our march from the shores of the Tanganika we again
+      perceived our "Magdala Mount," rising like a dark cloud to the north-east,
+      by which I knew that we were approaching Imrera, and that our Icarian
+      attempt to cross the uninhabited jungle of Ukawendi would soon be crowned
+      with success. Against the collective counsel of the guides, and
+      hypothetical suggestions of the tired and hungry souls of our Expedition,
+      I persisted in being guided only by the compass and my chart. The guides
+      strenuously strove to induce me to alter my course and strike in a
+      south-west direction, which, had I listened to them, would have
+      undoubtedly taken me to South-western Ukonongo, or North-eastern Ufipa.
+      The veteran and experienced soldiers asked mournfully if I were determined
+      to kill them with famine, as the road I should have taken was north-east;
+      but I preferred putting my trust in the compass. No sun shone upon us as
+      we threaded our way through the primeval forest, by clumps of jungle,
+      across streams, up steep ridges, and down into deep valleys. A thick haze
+      covered the forests; rain often pelted us; the firmament was an
+      unfathomable depth of grey vapour. The Doctor had perfect confidence in
+      me, and I held on my way.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As soon as we arrived at our camp the men scattered themselves through the
+      forest to search for food. A grove of singwe trees was found close by.
+      Mushrooms grew in abundance, and these sufficed to appease the gnawing
+      hunger from which the people suffered. Had it not been such rainy weather
+      I should have been enabled to procure game for the camp; but the fatigue
+      which I suffered, and the fever which enervated me, utterly prevented me
+      from moving out of the camp after we once came to a halt. The fear of
+      lions, which were numerous in our vicinity, whose terrible roaring was
+      heard by day and by night, daunted the hunters so much, that though I
+      offered five doti of cloth for every animal brought to camp, none dared
+      penetrate the gloomy glades, or awesome belts of timber, outside the
+      friendly defence of the camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The morning of the tenth day I assured the people that we were close to
+      food; cheered the most amiable of them with promise of abundant provender,
+      and hushed the most truculent knaves with a warning not to tempt my
+      patience too much, lest we came to angry blows; and then struck away east
+      by north through the forest, with the almost exhausted Expedition dragging
+      itself weakly and painfully behind me. It was a most desperate position
+      certainly, and I pitied the poor people far more than they pitied
+      themselves; and though I fumed and stormed in their presence when they
+      were disposed to lie down and give up, never was a man further from doing
+      them injury. I was too proud of them; but under the circumstances it was
+      dangerous&mdash;nay, suicidal&mdash;to appear doubtful or dubious of the
+      road. The mere fact that I still held on my way according to the Doctor's
+      little pearly monitor (the compass) had a grand moral effect on them, and
+      though they demurred in plaintive terms and with pinched faces, they
+      followed my footsteps with a trustfulness which quite affected me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For long miles we trudged over smooth sloping sward, with a vision of
+      forest and park-land beauty on our right and left, and in front of us such
+      as is rarely seen. At a pace that soon left the main body of the
+      Expedition far behind, I strode on with a few gallant fellows, who,
+      despite their heavy loads, kept pace with me. After a couple of hours we
+      were ascending the easy slope of a ridge, which promised to decide in a
+      few minutes the truth or the inaccuracy of my chart. Presently we arrived
+      at the eastern edge of the ridge, and about five miles away, and 1,000
+      feet below the high plateau on which we stood, we distinguished the valley
+      of Imrera!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By noon we were in our old camp. The natives gathered round, bringing
+      supplies of food, and to congratulate us upon having gone to Ujiji and
+      returned. But it was long before the last member of the Expedition
+      arrived. The Doctor's feet were very sore, bleeding from the weary march.
+      His shoes were in a very worn-out state, and he had so cut and slashed
+      them with a knife to ease his blistered feet, that any man of our force
+      would have refused them as a gift, no matter how ambitious he might be to
+      encase his feet a la Wasungu.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Asmani, the guide, was very much taken aback when he discovered that the
+      tiny compass knew the way better than he did, and he declared it as his
+      solemn opinion that it could not lie. He suffered much in reputation from
+      having contested the palm with the "little thing," and ever afterwards his
+      boasted knowledge of the country was considerably doubted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After halting a day to recruit ourselves, we continued our journey on the
+      18th January, 1872, towards Unyanyembe. A few miles beyond Imrera, Asmani
+      lost the road again, and I was obliged to show it to him, by which I
+      gained additional honour and credit as a leader and guide. My shoes were
+      very bad, and it was difficult to decide whose were the worst in
+      condition, the Doctor's or mine. A great change had come upon the face of
+      the land since I had passed northward en route to Ujiji. The wild grapes
+      now hung in clusters along the road; the corn ears were advanced enough to
+      pluck and roast for food; the various plants shed their flowers; and the
+      deep woods and grasses of the country were greener than ever.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 19th we arrived at Mpokwa's deserted village. The Doctor's feet
+      were very much chafed and sore by the marching. He had walked on foot all
+      the way from Urimba, though he owned a donkey; while I, considerably to my
+      shame be it said, had ridden occasionally to husband my strength, that I
+      might be enabled to hunt after arrival at camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Two huts were cleared for our use, but, just as we had made ourselves
+      comfortable, our sharp-eyed fellows had discovered several herds of game
+      in the plain west of Mpokwa. Hastily devouring a morsel of corn-bread with
+      coffee, I hastened away, with Bilali for a gunbearer, taking with me the
+      famous Reilly rifle of the Doctor and a supply of Fraser's shells. After
+      plunging through a deep stream, and getting wet again, and pushing my way
+      through a dense brake, I arrived at a thin belt of forest, through which I
+      was obliged to crawl, and, in half an hour, I had arrived within one
+      hundred and forty yards of a group of zebras, which were playfully biting
+      each other under the shade of a large tree. Suddenly rising up, I
+      attracted their attention; but the true old rifle was at my shoulder, and
+      "crack&mdash;crack" went both barrels, and two fine zebras, a male and
+      female, fell dead under the tree where they had stood. In a few seconds
+      their throats were cut, and after giving the signal of my success, I was
+      soon surrounded by a dozen of my men, who gave utterance to their delight
+      by fulsome compliments to the merits of the rifle, though very few to me.
+      When I returned to camp with the meat I received the congratulations of
+      the Doctor, which I valued far higher, as he knew from long experience
+      what shooting was.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When the eatable portions of the two zebras were hung to the scale, we
+      found, according to the Doctor's own figures, that we had 719 lbs. of good
+      meat, which, divided among forty-four men, gave a little over 16 lbs. to
+      each person. Bombay, especially, was very happy, as he had dreamed a dream
+      wherein I figured prominently as shooting animals down right and left;
+      and, when he had seen me depart with that wonderful Reilly rifle he had
+      not entertained a doubt of my success, and, accordingly, had commanded the
+      men to be ready to go after me, as soon as they should hear the reports of
+      the gun.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The following is quoted from my Diary:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      January 20th, 1872.&mdash;To-day was a halt. On going out for a hunt I saw
+      a herd of eleven giraffes. After crossing Mpokwa stream I succeeded in
+      getting within one hundred and fifty yards of one of them, and fired at
+      it; but, though it was wounded, I did not succeed in dropping it, though I
+      desired the skin of one of them very much.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the afternoon I went out to the east of the village, and came to a herd
+      of six giraffes. I wounded one of them, but it got off, despite my
+      efforts.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      What remarkable creatures they are! How beautiful their large limpid eyes!
+      I could have declared on oath that both shots had been a success, but they
+      sheered off with the stately movements of a clipper about to tack. When
+      they ran they had an ungainly, dislocated motion, somewhat like the
+      contortions of an Indian nautch or a Theban danseuse&mdash;a dreamy,
+      undulating movement, which even the tail, with its long fringe of black
+      hair, seemed to partake of.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Doctor, who knew how to console an ardent but disappointed young
+      hunter, attributed my non-success to shooting with leaden balls, which
+      were too soft to penetrate the thick hide of the giraffes, and advised me
+      to melt my zinc canteens with which to harden the lead. It was not the
+      first time that I had cause to think the Doctor an admirable travelling
+      companion; none knew so well how to console one for bad luck none knew so
+      well how to elevate one in his own mind. If I killed a zebra, did not his
+      friend Oswell&mdash;the South African hunter&mdash;and himself long ago
+      come to the conclusion that zebra meat was the finest in Africa? If I shot
+      a buffalo cow, she was sure to be the best of her kind, and her horns were
+      worth while carrying home as specimens; and was she not fat? If I returned
+      without anything, the game was very wild, or the people had made a noise,
+      and the game had been frightened; and who could stalk animals already
+      alarmed? Indeed, he was a most considerate companion, and, knowing him to
+      be literally truthful, I was proud of his praise when successful, and when
+      I failed I was easily consoled.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ibrahim, the old pagazi whose feelings had been so lacerated in Ukawendi,
+      when his ancient kibuyu broke, before leaving Ujiji invested his cloth in
+      a slave from Manyuema, who bore the name of "Ulimengo," which signifies
+      the "World." As we approached Mpokwa, Ulimengo absconded with all his
+      master's property, consisting of a few cloths and a bag of salt, which he
+      had thought of taking to Unyanyembe for trade. Ibrahim was inconsolable,
+      and he kept lamenting his loss daily in such lugubrious tones that the
+      people, instead of sympathizing, laughed at him. I asked him why he
+      purchased such a slave, and, while he was with him, why he did not feed
+      him? Replied he, tartly, "Was he not my slave? Was not the cloth with
+      which I bought him mine? If the cloth was my own, could I not purchase
+      what I liked? Why do you talk so?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ibrahim's heart was made glad this evening by the return of Ulimengo with
+      the salt and the cloth, and the one-eyed old man danced with his great
+      joy, and came in all haste to impart to me the glad news. "Lo, the 'World'
+      has come back. Sure. My salt and my cloth are with him also. Sure." To
+      which I replied, that he had better feed him in future, as slaves required
+      food as well as their masters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From 10 P.M. to midnight the Doctor was employed in taking observations
+      from the star Canopus, the result of which was that he ascertained Mpokwa,
+      district of Utanda, Ukonongo, to be in S. latitude 6 degrees 18 minutes 40
+      seconds. On comparing it with its position as laid down in my map by dead
+      reckoning, I found we differed by three miles; I having laid it down at 6
+      degrees 15 minutes south latitude.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The day following was a halt. The Doctor's feet were so inflamed and sore
+      that he could not bear his shoes on. My heels were also raw, and I
+      viciously cut large circles out of my shoes to enable me to move about.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having converted my zinc canteens into bullets, and provided myself with a
+      butcher and gun-bearer, I set out for the lovely park-land and plain west
+      of Mpokwa stream, with the laudable resolution to obtain something; and
+      seeing nothing in the plain, I crossed over a ridge, and came to a broad
+      basin covered with tall grass, with clumps here and there of hyphene palm,
+      with a stray mimosa or so scattered about. Nibbling off the branches of
+      the latter, I saw a group of giraffes, and then began stalking them
+      through the grass, taking advantage of the tall grass-grown ant-hills that
+      I might approach the wary beasts before their great eyes could discover
+      me. I contrived to come within 175 yards, by means of one of these curious
+      hummocks; but beyond it no man could crawl without being observed&mdash;the
+      grass was so thin and short. I took a long breath, wiped my perspiring
+      brow, and sat down for a while; my black assistants also, like myself,
+      were almost breathless with the exertion, and the high expectations roused
+      by the near presence of the royal beasts. I toyed lovingly with the heavy
+      Reilly, saw to my cartridges, and then stood up and turned, with my rifle
+      ready; took one good, long, steady aim; then lowered it again to arrange
+      the sights, lifted it up once more&mdash;dropped it. A giraffe half turned
+      his body; for the last time I lifted it, took one quick sight at the
+      region of the heart, and fired. He staggered, reeled, then made a short
+      gallop; but the blood was spouting from the wound in a thick stream, and
+      before he had gone 200 yards he came to a dead halt, with his ears drawn
+      back, and allowed me to come within twenty yards of him, when, receiving a
+      zinc bullet through the head, he fell dead.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Allah ho, akhbar!" cried Khamisi, my butcher, fervently. "This is meat,
+      master!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was rather saddened than otherwise at seeing the noble animal stretched
+      before me. If I could have given him his life back I think I should have
+      done so. I thought it a great pity that such splendid animals, so well
+      adapted for the service of man in Africa, could not be converted to some
+      other use than that of food. Horses, mules, and donkeys died in these
+      sickly regions; but what a blessing for Africa would it be if we could
+      tame the giraffes and zebras for the use of explorers and traders! Mounted
+      on a zebra, a man would be enabled to reach Ujiji in one month from
+      Bagamoyo; whereas it took me over seven months to travel that distance!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The dead giraffe measured 16 feet 9 inches from his right fore-hoof to the
+      top of his head, and was one of the largest size, though some have been
+      found to measure over 17 feet. He was spotted all over with large black,
+      nearly round, patches.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I left Khamisi in charge of the dead beast, while I returned to camp to
+      send off men to cut it up, and convey the meat to our village. But Khamisi
+      climbed a tree for fear of the lions, and the vultures settled on it, so
+      that when the men arrived on the spot, the eyes, the tongue, and a great
+      part of the posteriors were eaten up. What remained weighed as follows,
+      when brought in and hung to the scales:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1 hind leg.... 134 lbs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1 " .... 136 "
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1 fore leg.... 160 "
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I " .... 160 "
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ribs...... 158 "
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Neck...... 74 "
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rump...... 87 "
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Breast..... 46 "
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Liver..... 20 "
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Lungs..... 12 "
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Heart..... 6 "
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Total weight of eatable portions.. 993 lbs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Skin and head, 181 lbs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The three days following I suffered from a severe attack of fever, and was
+      unable to stir from bed. I applied my usual remedies for it, which
+      consisted of colocynth and quinine; but experience has shown me that an
+      excessive use of the same cathartic weakens its effect, and that it would
+      be well for travellers to take with them different medicines to cause
+      proper action in the liver, such as colocynth, calomel, resin of jalap,
+      Epsom salts; and that no quinine should be taken until such medicines
+      shall have prepared the system for its reception.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Doctor's prescription for fever consists of 3 grains of resin of
+      jalap, and 2 grains of calomel, with tincture of cardamoms put in just
+      enough to prevent irritation of the stomach&mdash;made into the form of a
+      pill&mdash;which is to be taken as soon as one begins to feel the
+      excessive languor and weariness which is the sure forerunner of the
+      African type of fever. An hour or two later a cup of coffee, unsugared and
+      without milk, ought to be taken, to cause a quicker action. The Doctor
+      also thinks that quinine should be taken with the pill; but my experience&mdash;though
+      it weighs nothing against what he has endured&mdash;has proved to me that
+      quinine is useless until after the medicine has taken effect. My stomach
+      could never bear quinine unless subsequent to the cathartic. A well-known
+      missionary at Constantinople recommends travellers to take 3 grains of
+      tartar-emetic for the ejection of the bilious matter in the stomach; but
+      the reverend doctor possibly forgets that much more of the system is
+      disorganized than the stomach; and though in one or two cases of a slight
+      attack, this remedy may have proved successful, it is altogether too
+      violent for an enfeebled man in Africa. I have treated myself faithfully
+      after this method three or four times; but I could not conscientiously
+      recommend it. For cases of urticaria, I could recommend taking 3 grains of
+      tartar-emetic; but then a stomach-pump would answer the purpose as well.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 27th we set out for Misonghi. About half-way I saw the head of the
+      Expedition on the run, and the motive seemed to be communicated quickly,
+      man after man, to those behind, until my donkey commenced to kick, and
+      lash behind with his heels. In a second, I was made aware of the cause of
+      this excitement, by a cloud of wild bees buzzing about my head, three or
+      four of which settled on my face, and stung me frightfully. We raced madly
+      for about half a mile, behaving in as wild a manner as the poor bestung
+      animals.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As this was an unusually long march, I doubted if the Doctor could march
+      it, because his feet were so sore, so I determined to send four men back
+      with the kitanda; but the stout old hero refused to be carried, and walked
+      all the way to camp after a march of eighteen miles. He had been stung
+      dreadfully in the head and in the face; the bees had settled in handfuls
+      in his hair; but, after partaking of a cup of warm tea and some food, he
+      was as cheerful as if he had never travelled a mile.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Mrera, Central Ukonongo, we halted a day to grind grain, and to prepare
+      the provision we should need during the transit of the wilderness between
+      Mrera and Manyara.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 31st of January, at Mwaru, Sultan Ka-mirambo, we met a caravan
+      under the leadership of a slave of Sayd bin Habib, who came to visit us in
+      our camp, which was hidden in a thick clump of jungle. After he was
+      seated, and had taken his coffee, I asked,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "What is thy news, my friend, that thou bast brought from Unyanyembe?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "My news is good, master."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How goes the war?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Ah, Mirambo is where? He eats the hides even. He is famished. Sayd bin
+      Habib, my master, hath possession of Kirira. The Arabs are thundering at
+      the gates of Wilyankuru. Sayd bin Majid, who came from Ujiji to Usagozi in
+      twenty days, hath taken and slain 'Moto' (Fire), the King. Simba of Kasera
+      hath taken up arms for the defence of his father, Mkasiwa of Unyanyembe.
+      The chief of Ugunda hath sent five hundred men to the field. Ough&mdash;Mirambo
+      is where? In a month he will be dead of hunger."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Great and good news truly, my friend."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes-in the name of God."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "And whither art thou bound with thy caravan?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Sayd, the son of Majid, who came from Ujiji, hath told us of the road
+      that the white man took, that he had arrived at Ujiji safely, and that he
+      was on his way back to Unyanyembe. So we have thought that if the white
+      man could go there, we could also. Lo, the Arabs come by the hundred by
+      the white man's road, to get the ivory from Ujiji.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I am that white man."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "You?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Why it was reported that you were dead&mdash;that you fought with the
+      Wazavira."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Ah, my friend, these are the words of Njara, the son of Khamis. See"
+      (pointing to Livingstone), "this is the white man, my father *, whom I saw
+      at Ujiji. He is going with me to Unyanyembe to get his cloth, after which
+      he will return to the great waters."
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * It is a courteous custom in Africa to address elderly
+     people as "Baba," (Father.)
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      "Wonderful!&mdash;thou sayest truly."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "What has thou to tell me of the white man at Unyanyembe?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Which white man?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "The white man I left in the house of Sayd, the son of Salim&mdash;my
+      house&mdash;at Kwihara."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "He is dead."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Dead!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "True."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "You do not mean to say the white man is dead?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "True&mdash;he is dead."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "How long ago?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Many months now."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "What did he die of?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Homa (fever)."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Any more of my people dead?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I know not."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Enough." I looked sympathetically at the Doctor, and he replied,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I told you so. When you described him to me as a drunken man, I knew he
+      could not live. Men who have been habitual drunkards cannot live in this
+      country, any more than men who have become slaves to other vices. I
+      attribute the deaths that occurred in my expedition on the Zambezi to much
+      the same cause."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Ah, Doctor, there are two of us gone. I shall be the third, if this fever
+      lasts much longer."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh no, not at all. If you would have died from fever, you would have died
+      at Ujiji when you had that severe attack of remittent. Don't think of it.
+      Your fever now is only the result of exposure to wet. I never travel
+      during the wet season. This time I have travelled because I was anxious,
+      and I did not wish to detain you at Ujiji."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, there is nothing like a good friend at one's back in this country
+      to encourage him, and keep his spirits up. Poor Shaw! I am sorry&mdash;very
+      sorry for him. How many times have I not endeavoured to cheer him up! But
+      there was no life in him. And among the last words I said to him, before
+      parting, were, 'Remember, if you return to Unyanyembe, you die!'"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We also obtained news from the chief of Sayd bin Habib's caravan that
+      several packets of letters and newspapers, and boxes, had arrived for me
+      from Zanzibar by my messengers and Arabs; that Selim, the son of Sheikh
+      Hashid of Zanzibar, was amongst the latest arrivals in Unyanyembe. The
+      Doctor also reminded me with the utmost good-nature that, according to his
+      accounts, he had a stock of jellies and crackers, soups, fish, and potted
+      ham, besides cheese, awaiting him in Unyanyembe, and that he would be
+      delighted to share his good things; whereupon I was greatly cheered, and,
+      during the repeated attacks of fever I suffered about this time, my
+      imagination loved to dwell upon the luxuries at Unyanyembe. I pictured
+      myself devouring the hams and crackers and jellies like a madman. I lived
+      on my raving fancies. My poor vexed brain rioted on such homely things as
+      wheaten bread and butter, hams, bacon, caviare, and I would have thought
+      no price too high to pay for them. Though so far away and out of the pale
+      of Europe and America, it was a pleasure to me, during the <i>athumia</i>
+      or despondency into which I was plunged by ever recurring fevers, to dwell
+      upon them. I wondered that people who had access to such luxuries should
+      ever get sick, and become tired of life. I thought that if a wheaten loaf
+      with a nice pat of fresh butter were presented to me, I would be able,
+      though dying, to spring up and dance a wild fandango.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Though we lacked the good things of this life above named, we possessed
+      salted giraffe and pickled zebra tongues; we had ugali made by Halimah
+      herself; we had sweet potatoes, tea, coffee, dampers, or slap jacks; but I
+      was tired of them. My enfeebled stomach, harrowed and irritated with
+      medicinal compounds, with ipecac, colocynth, tartar-emetic, quinine, and
+      such things, protested against the coarse food. "Oh, for a wheaten loaf!"
+      my soul cried in agony. "Five hundred dollars for one loaf of bread!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Doctor, somehow or another, despite the incessant rain, the dew, fog,
+      and drizzle, the marching, and sore feet, ate like a hero, and I manfully,
+      sternly, resolved to imitate the persevering attention he paid to the
+      welfare of his gastric powers; but I miserably failed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Dr. Livingstone possesses all the attainments of a traveller. His
+      knowledge is great about everything concerning Africa&mdash;the rocks, the
+      trees, the fruits, and their virtues, are known to him. He is also full of
+      philosophic reflections upon ethnological matter. With camp-craft, with
+      its cunning devices, he is au fait. His bed is luxurious as a spring
+      mattress. Each night he has it made under his own supervision. First, he
+      has two straight poles cut, three or four inches in diameter; which are
+      laid parallel one with another, at the distance of two feet; across these
+      poles are laid short sticks, saplings, three feet long, and over them is
+      laid a thick pile of grass; then comes a piece of waterproof canvas and
+      blankets&mdash;and thus a bed has been improvised fit for a king.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was at Livingstone's instigation I purchased milch goats, by which,
+      since leaving Ujiji, we have had a supply of fresh milk for our tea and
+      coffee three times a day. Apropos of this, we are great drinkers of these
+      welcome stimulants; we seldom halt drinking until we have each had six or
+      seven cups. We have also been able to provide ourselves with music, which,
+      though harsh, is better than none. I mean the musical screech of parrots
+      from Manyuema.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Half-way between Mwaru&mdash;Kamirambo's village&mdash;and the deserted
+      Tongoni of Ukamba, I carved the Doctor's initials and my own on a large
+      tree, with the date February 2nd. I have been twice guilty of this in
+      Africa once when we were famishing in Southern Uvinza I inscribed the
+      date, my initials, and the word "Starving," in large letters on the trunk
+      of a sycamore.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In passing through the forest of Ukamba, we saw the bleached skull of an
+      unfortunate victim to the privations of travel. Referring to it, the
+      Doctor remarked that he could never pass through an African forest, with
+      its solemn stillness and serenity, without wishing to be buried quietly
+      under the dead leaves, where he would be sure to rest undisturbed. In
+      England there was no elbow-room, the graves were often desecrated; and
+      ever since he had buried his wife in the woods of Shupanga he had sighed
+      for just such a spot, where his weary bones would receive the eternal rest
+      they coveted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The same evening, when the tent door was down, and the interior was made
+      cheerful by the light of a paraffin candle, the Doctor related to me some
+      incidents respecting the career and the death of his eldest son, Robert.
+      Readers of Livingstone's first book, 'South Africa,' without which no boy
+      should be, will probably recollect the dying Sebituane's regard for the
+      little boy "Robert." Mrs. Livingstone and family were taken to the Cape of
+      Good Hope, and thence sent to England, where Robert was put in the charge
+      of a tutor; but wearied of inactivity, when he was about eighteen, he left
+      Scotland and came to Natal, whence he endeavoured to reach his father.
+      Unsuccessful in his attempt, he took ship and sailed for New York, and
+      enlisted in the Northern Army, in a New Hampshire regiment of Volunteers,
+      discarding his own name of Robert Moffatt Livingstone, and taking that of
+      Rupert Vincent that his tutor, who seems to have been ignorant of his
+      duties to the youth, might not find him. From one of the battles before
+      Richmond, he was conveyed to a North Carolina hospital, where he died from
+      his wounds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 7th of February we arrived at the Gombe, and camped near one of its
+      largest lakes. This lake is probably several miles in length, and swarms
+      with hippopotami and crocodiles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From this camp I despatched Ferajji, the cook, and Chowpereh to
+      Unyanyembe, to bring the letters and medicines that were sent to me from
+      Zanzibar, and meet us at Ugunda, while the next day we moved to our old
+      quarters on the Gombe, where we were first introduced to the real hunter's
+      paradise in Central Africa. The rain had scattered the greater number of
+      the herds, but there was plenty of game in the vicinity. Soon after
+      breakfast I took Khamisi and Kalulu with me for a hunt. After a long walk
+      we arrived near a thin jungle, where I discovered the tracks of several
+      animals&mdash;boar, antelope, elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, and an
+      unusual number of imprints of the lion's paw. Suddenly I heard Khamisi
+      say, "Master, master! here is a 'simba!' (lion);" and he came up to me
+      trembling with excitement and fear&mdash;for the young fellow was an
+      arrant coward&mdash;to point out the head of a beast, which could be seen
+      just above the tall grass, looking steadily towards us. It immediately
+      afterwards bounded from side to side, but the grass was so high that it
+      was impossible to tell exactly what it was. Taking advantage of a tree in
+      my front, I crept quietly onwards, intending to rest the heavy rifle
+      against it, as I was so weak from the effects of several fevers that I
+      felt myself utterly incapable of supporting my rifle for a steady aim. But
+      my surprise was great when I cautiously laid it against the tree, and then
+      directed its muzzle to the spot where I had seen him stand. Looking
+      further away&mdash;to where the grass was thin and scant&mdash;I saw the
+      animal bound along at a great rate, and that it was a lion: the noble
+      monarch of the forest was in full flight! From that moment I ceased to
+      regard him as the "mightiest among the brutes;" or his roar as anything
+      more fearful in broad daylight than a sucking dove's.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day was also a halt, and unable to contain my longing for the
+      chase, where there used to be such a concourse of game of all kinds, soon
+      after morning coffee, and after despatching a couple of men with presents
+      to my friend Ma-manyara, of ammonia-bottle memory, I sauntered out once
+      more for the park. Not five hundred yards from the camp, myself and men
+      were suddenly halted by hearing in our immediate vicinity, probably within
+      fifty yards or so, a chorus of roars, issuing from a triplet of lions.
+      Instinctively my fingers raised the two hammers, as I expected a general
+      onset on me; for though one lion might fly, it was hardly credible that
+      three should. While looking keenly about I detected, within easy
+      rifle-shot, a fine hartebeest, trembling and cowering behind a tree, as if
+      it expected the fangs of the lion in its neck. Though it had its back
+      turned to me, I thought a bullet might plough its way to a vital part, and
+      without a moment's hesitation I aimed and fired. The animal gave a
+      tremendous jump, as if it intended to take a flying leap through the tree;
+      but recovering itself it dashed through the underbrush in a different
+      direction from that in which I supposed the lions to be, and I never saw
+      it again, though I knew I had struck it from the bloody trail it left;
+      neither did I see nor hear anything more of the lions. I searched far and
+      wide over the park-land for prey of some kind, but was compelled to return
+      unsuccessful to camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Disgusted with my failure, we started a little after noon for Manyara, at
+      which place we were hospitably greeted by my friend, who had sent men to
+      tell me that his white brother must not halt in the woods but must come to
+      his village. We received a present of honey and food from the chief, which
+      was most welcome to us in our condition. Here was an instance of that
+      friendly disposition among Central African chiefs when they have not been
+      spoiled by the Arabs, which Dr. Livingstone found among the Babisa and
+      Ba-ulungu, and in Manyuema. I received the same friendly recognition from
+      all the chiefs, from Imrera, in Ukawendi, to Unyanyembe, as I did from
+      Mamanyara.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 14th we arrived at Ugunda, and soon after we had established
+      ourselves comfortably in a hut which the chief lent us for our use, in
+      came Ferajji and Chowpereh, bringing with them Sarmean and Uledi Manwa
+      Sera, who, it will be recollected, were the two soldiers sent to Zanzibar
+      with letters and who should Sarmean have in charge but the deserter
+      Hamdallah, who decamped at Manyara, as we were going to Ujiji. This
+      fellow, it seems, had halted at Kigandu, and had informed the chief and
+      the doctor of the village that he had been sent by the white man to take
+      back the cloth left there for the cure of Mabruk Saleem; and the simple
+      chief had commanded it to be given up to him upon his mere word, in
+      consequence of which the sick man had died.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Upon Sarmean's arrival in Unyanyembe from Zanzibar, about fifty days after
+      the Expedition had departed for Ujiji the news he received was that the
+      white man (Shaw) was dead; and that a man called Hamdallah, who had
+      engaged himself as one of my guides, but who had shortly after returned,
+      was at Unyanyembe. He had left him unmolested until the appearance of
+      Ferajji and his companion, when they at once, in a body, made a descent on
+      his hut and secured him. With the zeal which always distinguished him in
+      my service, Sarmean had procured a forked pole, between the prongs of
+      which the neck of the absconder was placed; and a cross stick, firmly
+      lashed, effectually prevented him from relieving himself of the
+      incumbrance attached to him so deftly.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There were no less than seven packets of letters and newspapers from
+      Zanzibar, which had been collecting during my absence from Unyanyembe.
+      These had been intrusted at various times to the chiefs of caravans, who
+      had faithfully delivered them at my tembe, according to their promise to
+      the Consul. There was one packet for me, which contained two or three
+      letters for Dr. Livingstone, to whom, of course, they were at once
+      transferred, with my congratulations. In the same packet there was also a
+      letter to me from the British Consul at Zanzibar requesting me to take
+      charge of Livingstone's goods and do the best I could to forward them on
+      to him, dated 25th September, 1871, five days after I left Unyanyembe on
+      my apparently hopeless task.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, Doctor," said I to Livingstone, "the English Consul requests me to
+      do all I can to push forward your goods to you. I am sorry that I did not
+      get the authority sooner, for I should have attempted it; but in the
+      absence of these instructions I have done the best I could by pushing you
+      towards the goods. The mountain has not been able to advance towards
+      Mohammed, but Mohammed has been compelled to advance towards the
+      mountain."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But Dr. Livingstone was too deeply engrossed in his own letters from home,
+      which were just a year old.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I received good and bad news from New York, but the good news was
+      subsequent, and wiped out all feelings that might have been evoked had I
+      received the bad only. But the newspapers, nearly a hundred of them, New
+      York, Boston, and London journals, were full of most wonderful news. The
+      Paris Commune was in arms against the National Assembly; the Tuileries,
+      the Louvre, and the ancient city Lutetia Parisiorum had been set in flames
+      by the blackguards of Saint-Antoine! French troops massacring and
+      murdering men, women, and children; rampant diabolism, and incarnate
+      revenge were at work in the most beautiful city in the world! Fair women
+      converted into demons, and dragged by ruffianly soldiery through the
+      streets to universal execration and pitiless death; children of tender age
+      pinned to the earth and bayoneted; men innocent or not, shot, cut,
+      stabbed, slashed, destroyed&mdash;a whole city given up to the summa
+      injuria of an infuriate, reckless, and brutal army! Oh France! Oh
+      Frenchmen! Such things are unknown even in the heart of barbarous Central
+      Africa. We spurned the newspapers with our feet; and for relief to
+      sickened hearts gazed on the comic side of our world, as illustrated in
+      the innocent pages of 'Punch.' Poor 'Punch!' good-hearted, kindly-natured
+      'Punch!' a traveller's benison on thee! Thy jokes were as physic; thy
+      innocent satire was provocative of hysteric mirth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our doors were crowded with curious natives, who looked with indescribable
+      wonder at the enormous sheets. I heard them repeat the words, "Khabari
+      Kisungu"&mdash;white man's news&mdash;often, and heard them discussing the
+      nature of such a quantity of news, and expressing their belief that the
+      "Wasungu" were "mbyah sana," and very "mkali;" by which they meant to say
+      that the white men were very wicked, and very smart and clever though the
+      term wicked is often employed to express high admiration.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the fourth day from Ugunda, or the 18th of February, and the
+      fifty-third day from Ujiji, we made our appearance with flags flying and
+      guns firing in the valley of Kwihara, and when the Doctor and myself
+      passed through the portals of my old quarters I formally welcomed him to
+      Unyanyembe and to my house.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Since the day I had left the Arabs, sick and, weary almost with my life,
+      but, nevertheless, imbued with the high hope that my mission would
+      succeed, 131 days had elapsed&mdash;with what vicissitudes of fortune the
+      reader well knows&mdash;during which time I had journeyed over 1,200
+      miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The myth after which I travelled through the wilderness proved to be a
+      fact; and never was the fact more apparent than when the Living Man walked
+      with me arm in arm to my old room, and I said to him, "Doctor, we are at
+      last HOME!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER XV. &mdash; HOMEWARD BOUND.&mdash;LIVINGSTONE'S LAST WORDS&mdash;THE
+      FINAL FAREWELL
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      Unyanyembe was now to me a terrestrial Paradise. Livingstone was no less
+      happy; he was in comfortable quarters, which were a palace compared to his
+      hut in Ujiji. Our store-rooms were full of the good things of this life,
+      besides cloth, beads, wire, and the thousand and one impedimenta and
+      paraphernalia of travel with which I had loaded over one hundred and fifty
+      men at Bagamoyo. I had seventy-four loads of miscellaneous things, the
+      most valuable of which were now to be turned over to Livingstone, for his
+      march back to the sources of the Nile.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was a great day with, us when, with hammer and chisel, I broke open the
+      Doctor's boxes, that we might feast our famished stomachs on the luxuries
+      which were to redeem us from the effect of the cacotrophic dourra and
+      maize food we had been subjected to in the wilderness. I conscientiously
+      believed that a diet on potted ham, crackers, and jellies would make me as
+      invincible as Talus, and that I only required a stout flail to be able to
+      drive the mighty Wagogo into the regions of annihilation, should they dare
+      even to wink in a manner I disapproved.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first box opened contained three tins of biscuits, six tins of potted
+      hams&mdash;tiny things, not much larger than thimbles, which, when opened,
+      proved to be nothing more than a table-spoonful of minced meat plentifully
+      seasoned with pepper: the Doctor's stores fell five hundred degrees below
+      zero in my estimation. Next were brought out five pots of jam, one of
+      which was opened&mdash;this was also a delusion. The stone jars weighed a
+      pound, and in each was found a little over a tea-spoonful of jam. Verily,
+      we began to think our hopes and expectations had been raised to too high a
+      pitch. Three bottles of curry were next produced&mdash;but who cares for
+      curry? Another box was opened, and out tumbled a fat dumpy Dutch cheese,
+      hard as a brick, but sound and good; though it is bad for the liver in
+      Unyamwezi. Then another cheese was seen, but this was all eaten up&mdash;it
+      was hollow and a fraud. The third box contained nothing but two sugar
+      loaves; the fourth, candles; the fifth, bottles of salt, Harvey,
+      Worcester, and Reading sauces, essence of anchovies, pepper, and mustard.
+      Bless me! what food were these for the revivifying of a moribund such as I
+      was! The sixth box contained four shirts, two pairs of stout shoes, some
+      stockings and shoe-strings, which delighted the Doctor so much when he
+      tried them on that he exclaimed, "Richard is himself again!" "That man,"
+      said I, "whoever he is, is a friend, indeed." "Yes, that is my friend
+      Waller."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The five other boxes contained potted meat and soups; but the twelfth,
+      containing one dozen bottles of medicinal brandy, was gone; and a strict
+      cross-examination of Asmani, the head man of Livingstone's caravan,
+      elicited the fact, that not only was one case of brandy missing, but also
+      two bales of cloth and four bags of the most valuable beads in Africa&mdash;sami-sami&mdash;which
+      are as gold with the natives.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was grievously disappointed after the stores had been examined;
+      everything proved to be deceptions in my jaundiced eyes. Out of the tins
+      of biscuits when opened, there was only one sound box; the whole of which
+      would not make one full meal. The soups&mdash;who cared for meat soups in
+      Africa? Are there no bullocks, and sheep, and goats in the land, from
+      which far better soup can be made than any that was ever potted? Peas, or
+      any other kind of vegetable soup, would have been a luxury; but chicken
+      and game soups!&mdash;what nonsense!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I then overhauled my own stores. I found some fine old brandy and one
+      bottle of champagne still left; though it was evident, in looking at the
+      cloth bales, that dishonesty had been at work; and some person happened to
+      suggest Asmani&mdash;the head man sent by Dr. Kirk in charge of
+      Livingstone's goods&mdash;as the guilty party. Upon his treasures being
+      examined, I found eight or ten coloured cloths, with the mark of my own
+      agent at Zanzibar on them. As he was unable to give a clear account of how
+      they came in his box, they were at once confiscated, and distributed among
+      the most deserving of the Doctor's people. Some of the watchmen also
+      accused him of having entered into my store-room, and of having abstracted
+      two or three gorah of domestics from my bales, and of having, some days
+      afterwards, snatched the keys from the hands of one of my men, and broken
+      them, lest other people might enter, and find evidences of his guilt. As
+      Asmani was proved to be another of the "moral idiots," Livingstone
+      discharged him on the spot. Had we not arrived so soon at Unyanyembe, it
+      is probable that the entire stock sent from Zanzibar had in time
+      disappeared.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Unyanyembe being rich in fruits, grain, and cattle, we determined to have
+      our Christmas dinner over again in style, and, being fortunately in pretty
+      good health, I was enabled to superintend its preparation. Never was such
+      prodigality seen in a tembe of Unyamwezi as was seen in ours, nor were
+      ever such delicacies provided.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There were but few Arabs in Unyanyembe when we arrived, as they were
+      investing the stronghold of Mirambo. About a week after our return, "the
+      little mannikin," Sheikh Sayd bin Salim&mdash;El Wali&mdash;who was the
+      commander-in-chief of their forces, came to Kwihara from the front. But
+      the little Sheikh was in no great hurry to greet the man he had wronged so
+      much. As soon as we heard of his arrival we took the opportunity to send
+      men immediately after the goods which were forwarded to the Wali's care
+      soon after Livingstone's departure for Mikindany Bay. The first time we
+      sent men for them the governor declared himself too sick to attend to such
+      matters, but the second day they were surrendered, with a request that the
+      Doctor would not be very angry at their condition, as the white ants had
+      destroyed everything.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The stores this man had detained at Unyanyembe were in a most sorry state.
+      The expenses were prepaid for their carriage to Ujiji, but the goods had
+      been purposely detained at this place by Sayd bin Salim since 1867 that he
+      might satisfy his appetite for liquor, and probably fall heir to two
+      valuable guns that were known to be with them. The white ants had not only
+      eaten up bodily the box in which the guns were packed, but they had also
+      eaten the gunstocks. The barrels were corroded, and the locks were quite
+      destroyed. The brandy bottles, most singular to relate, had also fallen a
+      prey to the voracious and irresistible destroyers the white ants&mdash;and,
+      by some unaccountable means, they had imbibed the potent Hennessy, and
+      replaced the corks with corn-cobs. The medicines had also vanished, and
+      the zinc pots in which they had been snugly packed up were destroyed by
+      corrosion. Two bottles of brandy and one small zinc case of medicines only
+      were saved out of the otherwise utter wreck.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I also begged the Doctor to send to Sheikh Sayd, and ask him if he had
+      received the two letters despatched by him upon his first arrival at Ujiji
+      for Dr. Kirk and Lord Clarendon; and if he had forwarded them to the
+      coast, as he was desired to do. The reply to the messengers was in the
+      affirmative; and, subsequently, I obtained the same answer in the presence
+      of the Doctor,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 222nd of February, the pouring rain, which had dogged us the entire
+      distance from Ujiji, ceased, and we had now beautiful weather; and while I
+      prepared for the homeward march, the Doctor was busy writing his letters,
+      and entering his notes into his journal, which I was to take to his
+      family. When not thus employed, we paid visits to the Arabs at Tabora, by
+      whom we were both received with that bounteous hospitality for which they
+      are celebrated.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among the goods turned over by me to Dr. Livingstone, while assorting such
+      cloths as I wished to retain for my homeward trip, were&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+                                      Doti.   Yards.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      First-class American sheeting... 285 = 1140
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  "         Kaniki (blue stuff)...  16  =   64
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Medium " (blue stuff)... 60 = 240
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  "          Dabwani cloth....  41  =   64
+
+             Barsati cloths....   28  =  112
+
+             Printed handkerchiefs..  70  =  280
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Medium Rehani cloth..... 127 = 508
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  "    Ismahili  "       ....  20  =   80
+
+  "    Sohari    ".....        20  =   80
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      4 pieces fine Kungura (red check) 22 = 88
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      4 gorah Rehani....... 8 = 32
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Total number of cloths. 697 = 2788
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Besides:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Cloth, 2788 yards.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Assorted beads, 16 sacks, weight = 992 lbs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Brass wire, Nos. 5 and 6; 10 fraslilah = 350 lbs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1 canvas tent, waterproof.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1 air-bed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1 boat (canvas}
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1 bag of tools, carpenter's.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1 rip saw.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      2 barrels of tar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      12 sheets of ship's copper = 60 lbs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Clothes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1 Jocelyn breech-loader (metallic cartridge).
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1 Starr's " " "
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1 Henry (16-shooter) " "
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1 revolver.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      200 rounds revolver ammunition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      2000 " Jocelyn and Starrs ammunition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1500 " Henry rifle ammunition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Cooking utensils, medicine chest, books, sextant, canvas bags, &amp;c.,
+      &amp;c., &amp;c.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The above made a total of about forty loads. Many things in the list would
+      have brought fancy prices in Unyanyembe, especially the carbines and
+      ammunition, the saw, carpenter's tools the beads, and wire. Out of the
+      thirty-three loads which were stored for him in my tembe&mdash;the stock
+      sent to Livingstone, Nov. 1,1870&mdash;but few of them would be available
+      for his return trip to Rua and Manyuema. The 696 doti of cloth which were
+      left to him formed the only marketable articles of value he possessed; and
+      in Manyuema, where the natives manufactured their own cloth, such an
+      article would be considered a drug; while my beads and wire, with economy,
+      would suffice to keep him and his men over two years in those regions. His
+      own cloth, and what I gave him, made in the aggregate 1,393 doti, which,
+      at 2 doti per day for food, were sufficient to keep him and sixty men 696
+      days. He had thus four years' supplies. The only articles he lacked to
+      make a new and completely fitted-up expedition were the following, a list
+      of which he and I drew up;&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+A few tins of American wheat-flour.    "   "     soda crackers.
+    "   "     preserved fruits
+A few tins of salmon, 10 lbs. Hyson tea. Some sewing thread and needles.
+1 dozen official envelopes. 'Nautical Almanac' for 1872 and 1873. 1
+blank journal. 1 chronometer, stopped. 1 chain for refractory people.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      With the articles just named he would have a total of seventy loads, but
+      without carriers they were an incumbrance to him; for, with only the nine
+      men which he now had, he could go nowhere with such a splendid assortment
+      of goods. I was therefore commissioned to enlist,&mdash;as soon as I
+      reached Zanzibar,&mdash;fifty freemen, arm them with a gun and hatchet
+      each man, besides accoutrements, and to purchase two thousand bullets, one
+      thousand flints, and ten kegs of gunpowder. The men were to act as
+      carriers, to follow wherever Livingstone might desire to go. For, without
+      men, he was simply tantalized with the aspirations roused in him by the
+      knowledge that he had abundance of means, which were irrealizable without
+      carriers. All the wealth of London and New York piled before him were
+      totally unavailable to him without the means of locomotion. No Mnyamwezi
+      engages himself as carrier during war-time. You who have read the diary of
+      my 'Life in Unyanyembe' know what stubborn Conservatives the Wanyamwezi
+      are. A duty lay yet before me which I owed to my illustrious companion,
+      and that was to hurry to the coast as if on a matter of life and death&mdash;act
+      for him in the matter of enlisting men as if he were there himself&mdash;to
+      work for him with the same zeal as I would for myself&mdash;not to halt or
+      rest until his desires should be gratified, And this I vowed to do; but it
+      was a death-blow to my project of going down the Nile, and getting news of
+      Sir S. Baker.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Doctor's task of writing his letters was ended. He delivered into my
+      hand twenty letters for Great Britain, six for Bombay, two for New York,
+      and one for Zanzibar. The two letters for New York were for James Gordon
+      Bennett, junior, as he alone, not his father, was responsible for the
+      Expedition sent under my command. I beg the reader's pardon for
+      republishing one of these letters here, as its spirit and style indicate
+      the man, the mere knowledge of whose life or death was worth a costly
+      Expedition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ujiji, on Tanganika, East Africa, November, 1871.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      James Gordon Bennett, Jr., Esq.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My Dear Sir,&mdash;It is in general somewhat difficult to write to one we
+      have never seen&mdash;it feels so much like addressing an abstract idea&mdash;but
+      the presence of your representative, Mr. H. M. Stanley, in this distant
+      region takes away the strangeness I should otherwise have felt, and in
+      writing to thank you for the extreme kindness that prompted you to send
+      him, I feel quite at home.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If I explain the forlorn condition in which he found me you will easily
+      perceive that I have good reason to use very strong expressions of
+      gratitude. I came to Ujiji off a tramp of between four hundred and five
+      hundred miles, beneath a blazing vertical sun, having been baffled,
+      worried, defeated and forced to return, when almost in sight of the end of
+      the geographical part of my mission, by a number of half-caste Moslem
+      slaves sent to me from Zanzibar, instead of men. The sore heart made still
+      sorer by the woeful sights I had seen of man's inhumanity to man racked
+      and told on the bodily frame, and depressed it beyond measure. I thought
+      that I was dying on my feet. It is not too much to say that almost every
+      step of the weary sultry way was in pain, and I reached Ujiji a mere
+      ruckle of bones.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There I found that some five hundred pounds' sterling worth of goods which
+      I had ordered from Zanzibar had unaccountably been entrusted to a drunken
+      half-caste Moslem tailor, who, after squandering them for sixteen months
+      on the way to Ujiji; finished up by selling off all that remained for
+      slaves and ivory for himself. He had "divined" on the Koran and found that
+      I was dead. He had also written to the Governor of Unyanyembe that he had
+      sent slaves after me to Manyuema, who returned and reported my decease,
+      and begged permission to sell off the few goods that his drunken appetite
+      had spared.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He, however, knew perfectly well, from men who had seen me, that I was
+      alive, and waiting for the goods and men; but as for morality, he is
+      evidently an idiot, and there being no law here except that of the dagger
+      or musket, I had to sit down in great weakness, destitute of everything
+      save a few barter cloths and beads, which I had taken the precaution to
+      leave here in case of extreme need.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The near prospect of beggary among Ujijians made me miserable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I could not despair, because I laughed so much at a friend who, on
+      reaching the mouth of the Zambezi, said that he was tempted to despair on
+      breaking the photograph of his wife. We could have no success after that.
+      Afterward the idea of despair had to me such a strong smack of the
+      ludicrous that it was out of the question.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Well, when I had got to about the lowest verge, vague rumors of an English
+      visitor reached me. I thought of myself as the man who went down from
+      Jerusalem to Jericho; but neither priest, Levite, nor Samaritan could
+      possibly pass my way. Yet the good Samaritan was close at hand, and one of
+      my people rushed up at the top of his speed, and, in great excitement,
+      gasped out, "An Englishman coming! I see him!" and off he darted to meet
+      him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      An American flag, the first ever seen in these parts, at the head of a
+      caravan, told me the nationality of the stranger.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I am as cold and non-demonstrative as we islanders are usually reputed to
+      be; but your kindness made my frame thrill. It was, indeed, overwhelming,
+      and I said in my soul, "Let the richest blessings descend from the Highest
+      on you and yours!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The news Mr. Stanley had to tell was thrilling. The mighty political
+      changes on the Continent; the success of the Atlantic cables; the election
+      of General Grant, and many other topics' riveted my attention for days
+      together, and had an immediate and beneficial effect on my health. I had
+      been without news from home for years save what I could glean from a few
+      'Saturday Reviews' and 'Punch' of 1868. The appetite revived, and in a
+      week I began to feel strong again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mr. Stanley brought a most kind and encouraging despatch from Lord
+      Clarendon (whose loss I sincerely deplore), the first I have received from
+      the Foreign Office since 1866, and information that the British Government
+      had kindly sent a thousand pounds sterling to my aid. Up to his arrival I
+      was not aware of any pecuniary aid. I came unsalaried, but this want is
+      now happily repaired, and I am anxious that you and all my friends should
+      know that, though uncheered by letter, I have stuck to the task which my
+      friend Sir Roderick Murchison set me with "John Bullish" tenacity,
+      believing that all would come right at last.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The watershed of South Central Africa is over seven hundred wiles in
+      length. The fountains thereon are almost innumerable&mdash;that is, it
+      would take a man's lifetime to count them. From the watershed they
+      converge into four large rivers, and these again into two mighty streams
+      in the great Nile valley, which begins in ten degrees to twelve degrees
+      south latitude. It was long ere light dawned on the ancient problem and
+      gave me a clear idea of the drainage. I had to feel my way, and every step
+      of the way, and was, generally, groping in the dark&mdash;for who cared
+      where the rivers ran? "We drank our fill and let the rest run by."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Portuguese who visited Cazembe asked for slaves and ivory, and heard
+      of nothing else. I asked about the waters, questioned and
+      cross-questioned, until I was almost afraid of being set down as afflicted
+      with hydrocephalus.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My last work, in which I have been greatly hindered from want of suitable
+      attendants, was following the central line of drainage down through the
+      country of the cannibals, called Manyuema, or, shortly Manyema. This line
+      of drainage has four large lakes in it. The fourth I was near when obliged
+      to turn. It is from one to three miles broad, and never can be reached at
+      any point, or at any time of the year. Two western drains, the Lufira, or
+      Bartle Frere's River, flow into it at Lake Kamolondo. Then the great River
+      Lomame flows through Lake Lincoln into it too, and seems to form the
+      western arm of the Nile, on which Petherick traded.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now, I knew about six hundred miles of the watershed, and unfortunately
+      the seventh hundred is the most interesting of the whole; for in it, if I
+      am not mistaken, four fountains arise from an earthen mound, and the last
+      of the four becomes, at no great distance off, a large river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Two of these run north to Egypt, Lufira and Lomame, and two run south into
+      inner Ethiopia, as the Leambaye, or Upper Zambezi, and the Kaful.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Are not these the sources of the Nile mentioned by the Secretary of
+      Minerva, in the city of Sais, to Herodotus?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have heard of them so often, and at great distances off, that I cannot
+      doubt their existence, and in spite of the sore longing for home that
+      seizes me every time I think of my family, I wish to finish up by their
+      rediscovery.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Five hundred pounds sterling worth of goods have again unaccountably been
+      entrusted to slaves, and have been over a year on the way, instead of four
+      months. I must go where they lie at your expense, ere I can put the
+      natural completion to my work.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      And if my disclosures regarding the terrible Ujijian slavery should lead
+      to the suppression of the East Coast slave trade, I shall regard that as a
+      greater matter by far than the discovery of all the Nile sources together.
+      Now that you have done with domestic slavery for ever, lend us your
+      powerful aid toward this great object. This fine country is blighted, as
+      with a curse from above, in order that the slavery privileges of the petty
+      Sultan of Zanzibar may not be infringed, and the rights of the Crown of
+      Portugal, which are mythical, should be kept in abeyance till some future
+      time when Africa will become another India to Portuguese slave-traders.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I conclude by again thanking you most cordially for your great generosity,
+      and am,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Gratefully yours,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      David Livingstone.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To the above letter I have nothing to add&mdash;it speaks for itself; but
+      I then thought it was the best evidence of my success. For my own part, I
+      cared not one jot or tittle about his discoveries, except so far as it
+      concerned the newspaper which commissioned me for the "search." It is true
+      I felt curious as to the result of his travels; but, since he confessed
+      that he had not completed what he had begun, I felt considerable delicacy
+      to ask for more than he could afford to give. His discoveries were the
+      fruits of of his own labours&mdash;to him they belonged&mdash;by their
+      publication he hoped to obtain his reward, which he desired to settle on
+      his children. Yet Livingstone had a higher and nobler ambition than the
+      mere pecuniary sum he would receive: he followed the dictates of duty.
+      Never was such a willing slave to that abstract virtue. His inclinations
+      impelled him home, the fascinations of which it required the sternest
+      resolves to resist. With every foot of new ground he travelled over he
+      forged a chain of sympathy which should hereafter bind the Christian
+      nations in bonds of love and charity to the Heathen of the African
+      tropics. If he were able to complete this chain of love&mdash;by actual
+      discovery and description of them to embody such peoples and nations as
+      still live in darkness, so as to attract the good and charitable of his
+      own land to bestir themselves for their redemption and salvation&mdash;this,
+      Livingstone would consider an ample reward.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "A delirious and fatuous enterprise, a Quixotic scheme!" some will say.
+      Not it, my friends; for as sure as the sun shines on both Christian and
+      Infidel, civilised and Pagan, the day of enlightenment will come; and,
+      though Livingstone, the Apostle of Africa, may not behold it himself, nor
+      we younger men, not yet our children, the Hereafter will see it, and
+      posterity will recognise the daring pioneer of its civilization.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The following items are extracted in their entirety from my Diary:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      March 12th.&mdash;The Arabs have sent me as many as forty-five letters to
+      carry to the coast. I am turned courier in my latter days; but the reason
+      is that no regularly organized caravans are permitted to leave Unyanyembe
+      now, because of the war with Mirambo. What if I had stayed all this time
+      at Unyanyembe waiting for the war to end! It is my opinion that, the Arabs
+      will not be able to conquer Mirambo under nine months yet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To-night the natives have gathered themselves together to give me a
+      farewell dance in front of my house. I find them to be the pagazis of
+      Singiri, chief of Mtesa's caravan. My men joined in, and, captivated by
+      the music despite myself, I also struck in, and performed the "light
+      fantastic," to the intense admiration of my braves, who were delighted to
+      see their master unbend a little from his usual stiffness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is a wild dance altogether. The music is lively, and evoked from the
+      sonorous sound of four drums, which are arranged before the bodies of four
+      men, who stand in the centre of the weird circle. Bombay, as ever comical,
+      never so much at home as when in the dance of the Mrima, has my
+      water-bucket on his head; Chowpereh&mdash;the sturdy, the nimble,
+      sure-footed Chowpereh&mdash;has an axe in his hand, and wears a goatskin
+      on his head; Baraka has my bearskin, and handles a spear; Mabruki, the
+      "Bull-headed," has entered into the spirit of the thing, and steps up and
+      down like a solemn elephant; Ulimengo has a gun, and is a fierce
+      Drawcansir, and you would imagine he was about to do battle to a hundred
+      thousand, so ferocious is he in appearance; Khamisi and Kamna are before
+      the drummers, back to back, kicking up ambitiously at the stars; Asmani,&mdash;the
+      embodiment of giant strength,&mdash;a towering Titan,&mdash;has also a
+      gun, with which he is dealing blows in the air, as if he were Thor,
+      slaying myriads with his hammer. The scruples and passions of us all are
+      in abeyance; we are contending demons under the heavenly light of the
+      stars, enacting only the part of a weird drama, quickened into action and
+      movement by the appalling energy and thunder of the drums.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The warlike music is ended, and another is started. The choragus has
+      fallen on his knees, and dips his head two or three times in an excavation
+      in the ground, and a choir, also on their knees, repeat in dolorous tones
+      the last words of a slow and solemn refrain. The words are literally
+      translated:&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  Choragus. Oh-oh-oh! the white man is going home!
+
+  Choir. Oh-oh-oh! going home!
+                       Going home, oh-oh-oh!
+
+  Choragus. To the happy island on the sea,
+             Where the beads are plenty, oh-oh-oh!
+
+  Choir. Oh-oh-oh! where the beads are plenty,
+                       Oh-oh-oh!
+
+  Choragus. While Singiri has kept us, oh, very long
+             From our homes very long, oh-oh-oh.!
+
+  Choir From our homes, oh-oh-oh!
+                        Oh-oh-oh!
+
+  Choragus. And we have had no food for very long&mdash;
+             We are half-starved, oh, for so long!
+                        Bana Singiri!
+
+  Choir. For so very long, oh-oh-oh!
+                         Bana Singiri-Singiri!
+                              Singiri! oh, Singiri
+
+  Choragus. Mirambo has gone to war
+             To fight against the Arabs;
+             The Arabs and Wangwana
+             Have gone to fight Mirambo!
+
+  Choir Oh-oh-oh! to fight Mirambo!
+
+                          Oh, Mirambo! Mirambo
+                          Oh, to fight Mirambo!
+
+  Choragus. But the white man will make us glad,
+             He is going home!  For he is going home,
+             And he will make us glad!  Sh-sh-sh!
+
+  Choir. The white man will make us glad! Sh-sh-sh
+                          Sh&mdash;&mdash;-sh-h-h&mdash;&mdash;-sh-h-h-h-h-h!
+                          Um-m&mdash;mu&mdash;-um-m-m&mdash;&mdash;sh!
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      This is the singular farewell which I received from the Wanyamwezi of
+      Singiri, and for its remarkable epic beauty(?), rhythmic excellence(?),
+      and impassioned force(?), I have immortalised it in the pages of this
+      book, as one of the most wonderful productions of the chorus-loving
+      children of Unyamwezi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      March 13th.&mdash;The last day of my stay with Livingstone has come and
+      gone, and the last night we shall be together is present, and I cannot
+      evade the morrow! I feel as though I would rebel against the fate which
+      drives me away from him. The minutes beat fast, and grow into hours.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our door is closed, and we are both of us busy with our own thoughts. What
+      his thoughts are I know not. Mine are sad. My days seem to have been spent
+      in an Elysian field; otherwise, why should I so keenly regret the near
+      approach of the parting hour? Have I not been battered by successive
+      fevers, prostrate with agony day after day lately? Have I not raved and
+      stormed in madness? Have I not clenched my fists in fury, and fought with
+      the wild strength of despair when in delirium? Yet, I regret to surrender
+      the pleasure I have felt in this man's society, though so dearly
+      purchased.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I cannot resist the sure advance of time, which flies this night as if it
+      mocked me, and gloated on the misery it created! Be it so!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      How many times have I not suffered the pang of parting with friends! I
+      wished to linger longer, but the inevitable would come&mdash;Fate sundered
+      us. This is the same regretful feeling, only it is more poignant, and the
+      farewell may be forever! FOREVER? And "FOR EVER," echo the reverberations
+      of a woful whisper.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have noted down all he has said to-night; but the reader shall not share
+      it with me. It is mine!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I am as jealous as he is himself of his Journal; and I have written in
+      German text, and in round hand, on either side of it, on the waterproof
+      canvas cover, "POSITTVELY NOT TO BE OPENED;" to which he has affixed his
+      signature. I have stenographed every word he has said to me respecting the
+      equable distribution of certain curiosities among his friends and
+      children, and his last wish about "his" dear old friend, Sir Roderick
+      Murchison, because he has been getting anxious about him ever since we
+      received the newspapers at Ugunda, when we read that the old man was
+      suffering from a paralytic stroke. I must be sure to send him the news, as
+      soon as I get to Aden; and I have promised that he will receive the
+      message from me quicker than anything was ever received in Central Africa.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "To-morrow night, Doctor, you will be alone!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes; the house will look as though a death had taken place. You had
+      better stop until the rains, which are now near, are over."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I would to God I could, my dear Doctor; but every day I stop here, now
+      that there is no necessity for me to stay longer, keeps you from your work
+      and home."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I know; but consider your health&mdash;you are not fit to travel. What is
+      it? Only a few weeks longer. You will travel to the coast just as quickly
+      when the rains are over as you will by going now. The plains will be
+      inundated between here and the coast."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "You think so; but I will reach the coast in forty days; if not in forty,
+      I will in fifty&mdash;certain. The thought that I am doing you an
+      important service will spur me on."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      March 14th.&mdash;At dawn we were up, the bales and baggage were taken
+      outside of the building, and the men prepared themselves for the first
+      march towards home.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We had a sad breakfast together. I could not eat, my heart was too full;
+      neither did my companion seem to have an appetite. We found something to
+      do which kept us longer together. At 8 o'clock I was not gone, and I had
+      thought to have been off at 5 A.M.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Doctor," said I, "I will leave two men with you, who will stop to-day and
+      to-morrow with you, for it may be that you have forgotten something in the
+      hurry of my departure. I will halt a day at Tura, on the frontier of
+      Unyamwezi, for your last word, and your last wish; and now we must part&mdash;there
+      is no help for it. Good-bye."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh, I am coming with you a little way. I must see you off on the road."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Thank you. Now, my men, Home! Kirangozi, lift the flag, and MARCH!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The house looked desolate&mdash;it faded from our view. Old times, and the
+      memories of my aspirations and kindling hopes, came strong on me. The old
+      hills round about, that I once thought tame and uninteresting, had become
+      invested with histories and reminiscences for me. On that burzani I have
+      sat hour after hour, dreaming, and hoping, and sighing. On that col I
+      stood, watching the battle and the destruction of Tabora. Under that roof
+      I have sickened and been delirious, and cried out like a child at the fate
+      that threatened my mission. Under that banian tree lay my dead comrade&mdash;poor
+      Shaw; I would have given a fortune to have had him by my side at this
+      time. From that house I started on my journey to Ujiji; to it I returned
+      as to a friend, with a newer and dearer companion; and now I leave all.
+      Already it all appears like a strange dream.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We walked side by side; the men lifted their voices into a song. I took
+      long looks at Livingstone, to impress his features thoroughly on my
+      memory.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "The thing is, Doctor, so far as I can understand it, you do not intend to
+      return home until you have satisfied yourself about the 'Sources of the
+      Nile.' When you have satisfied yourself, you will come home and satisfy
+      others. Is it not so?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "That is it, exactly. When your men come back, I shall immediately start
+      for Ufipa; then, crossing the Rungwa River, I shall strike south, and
+      round the extremity of the Tanganika. Then, a south-east course will take
+      me to Chicumbi's, on the Luapula. On crossing the Luapula, I shall go
+      direct west to the copper-mines of Katanga. Eight days south of Katanga,
+      the natives declare the fountains to be. When I have found them, I shall
+      return by Katanga to the underground houses of Rua. From the caverns, ten
+      days north-east will take me to Lake Kamolondo. I shall be able to travel
+      from the lake, in your boat, up the River Lufira, to Lake Lincoln. Then,
+      coming down again, I can proceed north, by the Lualaba, to the fourth lake&mdash;which,
+      I think, will explain the whole problem; and I will probably find that it
+      is either Chowambe (Baker's lake), or Piaggia's lake.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "And how long do you think this little journey will take you?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "A year and a half, at the furthest, from the day I leave Unyanyembe."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Suppose you say two years; contingencies might arise, you know. It will
+      be well for me to hire these new men for two years; the day of their
+      engagement to begin from their arrival at Unyanyembe."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes, that will do excellently well."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Now, my dear Doctor, the best friends must part. You have come far
+      enough; let me beg of you to turn back."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, I will say this to you: you have done what few men could do&mdash;far
+      better than some great travellers I know. And I am grateful to you for
+      what you have done for me. God guide you safe home, and bless you, my
+      friend."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "And may God bring you safe back to us all, my dear friend. Farewell!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Farewell!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We wrung each other's hands, and I had to tear myself away before I
+      unmanned myself; but Susi, and Chumah, and Hamoydah&mdash;the Doctor's
+      faithful fellows&mdash;they must all shake and kiss my hands before I
+      could quite turn away. I betrayed myself!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Good-bye, Doctor&mdash;dear friend!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Good-bye!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The FAREWELL between Livingstone and myself had been spoken. We were
+      parted, he to whatever fate Destiny had yet in store for him, to battling
+      against difficulties, to many, many days of marching through wildernesses,
+      with little or nothing much to sustain him save his own high spirit, and
+      enduring faith in God&mdash;"who would bring all things right at last;"
+      and I to that which Destiny may have in store for me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But though I may live half a century longer, I shall never forget that
+      parting scene in Central Africa. I shall never cease to think of the sad
+      tones of that sorrowful word Farewell, how they permeated through every
+      core of my heart, how they clouded my eyes, and made me wish unutterable
+      things which could never be.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      An audacious desire to steal one embrace from the dear old man came over
+      me, and almost unmanned me. I felt tempted to stop with him and assist
+      him, on his long return march to the fountain region, but these things
+      were not to be, any more than many other impulsive wishes, and despite the
+      intensified emotions which filled both of us, save by silent tears, and a
+      tremulous parting word, we did not betray our stoicism of manhood and
+      race.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I assumed a gruff voice, and ordered the Expedition to march, and I
+      resolutely turned my face toward the eastern sky. But ever and anon my
+      eyes would seek that deserted figure of an old man in grey clothes, who
+      with bended head and slow steps was returning to his solitude, the very
+      picture of melancholy, and each time I saw him&mdash;as the plain was wide
+      and clear of obstructions&mdash;I felt my eyes stream, and my heart swell
+      with a vague, indefinable feeling of foreboding and sorrow.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I thought of his lonely figure sitting day after day on the burzani of his
+      house, by which all caravans from the coast would have to pass, and of the
+      many, many times he would ask the new-comers whether they had passed any
+      men coming along the road for him, and I thought as each day passed, and
+      his stores and letters had not arrived how he would grieve at the
+      lengthening delay. I then felt strong again, as I felt that so long as I
+      should be doing service for Livingstone, I was not quite parted from him,
+      and by doing the work effectively and speedily the bond of friendship
+      between us would be strengthened. Such thoughts spurred me to the
+      resolution to march so quickly for the coast, that Arabs in after time
+      should marvel at the speed with which the white man's caravan travelled
+      from Unyanyembe to Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I took one more look at him; he was standing near the gate of Kwikuru with
+      his servants near him. I waved a handkerchief to him, as a final token of
+      farewell, and he responded to it by lifting his cap. It was the last
+      opportunity, for we soon surmounted the crest of a land-wave, and began
+      the descent into the depression on the other side, and I NEVER saw him
+      more.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      God grant, dear reader, that if ever you take to travelling in Central
+      Africa, you find as good and true a man, for your companion, as I found in
+      noble David Livingstone. For four months and four days he and I occupied
+      the same house, or, the same tent, and I never had one feeling of
+      resentment against him, nor did he show any against me, and the longer I
+      lived with him the more did my admiration and reverence for him increase.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      What were Livingstone's thoughts during the time which elapsed between my
+      departure for the coast, and the arrival of his supplies, may be gathered
+      from a letter which he wrote on the 2nd of July to Mr. John F. Webb,
+      American Consul at Zanzibar.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  I have been waiting up here like Simeon Stylites on his pillar,
+  and counting every day, and conjecturing each step taken by our
+  friend towards the coast, wishing and praying that no sickness
+  might lay him up, no accident befall him, and no unlooked-for
+  combinations of circumstances render his kind intentions vain
+  or fruitless.  Mr. Stanley had got over the tendency to the
+  continued form of fever which is the most dangerous, and was
+  troubled only with the intermittent form, which is comparatively
+  safe, or I would not have allowed him, but would have accompanied
+  him to Zanzibar.  I did not tell himself so; nor did I say what I
+  thought, that he really did a very plucky thing in going through
+  the Mirambo war in spite of the remonstrances of all the Arabs,
+  and from Ujiji guiding me back to Unyanyembe.  The war, as it
+  is called, is still going on.  The danger lay not so much in
+  the actual fighting as in the universal lawlessness the war
+  engendered.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      I am not going to inflict on the reader a repetition of our march back,
+      except to record certain incidents which occurred to us as we journeyed to
+      the coast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      March 17th.&mdash;We came to the Kwalah River. The first rain of the
+      Masika season fell on this day; I shall be mildewed before I reach the
+      coast. Last year's Masika began at Bagamoyo, March 23rd, and ended 30th
+      April.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day I halted the Expedition at Western Tura, on the Unyamwezi
+      frontier, and on the 20th arrived at Eastern Tura; when, soon after, we
+      heard a loud report of a gun, and Susi and Hamoydah, the Doctor's
+      servants, with Uredi, and another of my men, appeared with a letter for
+      "Sir Thomas MacLear, Observatory, Cape of Good Hope," and one for myself,
+      which read as follows:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kwihara, March 15, 1872.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Dear Stanley,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If you can telegraph on your arrival in London, be particular, please, to
+      say how Sir Roderick is. You put the matter exactly yesterday, when you
+      said that I was "not yet satisfied about the Sources; but as soon as I
+      shall be satisfied, I shall return and give satisfactory reasons fit for
+      other people." This is just as it stands.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I wish I could give you a better word than the Scotch one to "put a stout
+      heart to a stey brae"&mdash;(a steep ascent)&mdash;for you will do that;
+      and I am thankful that, before going away, the fever had changed into the
+      intermittent, or safe form. I would not have let you go, but with great
+      concern, had you still been troubled with the continued type. I feel
+      comfortable in commending you to the guardianship of the good Lord and
+      Father of all.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I am gratefully yours,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      David Livingstone.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have worked as hard as I could copying observations made in one line of
+      march from Kabuire, back again to Cazembe, and on to Lake Baugweolo, and
+      am quite tired out. My large figures fill six sheets of foolscap, and many
+      a day will elapse ere I take to copying again. I did my duty when ill at
+      Ujiji in 1869, and am not to blame, though they grope a little in the dark
+      at home. Some Arab letters have come, and I forward them to you.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      D. L.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      March 16, 1872.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      P.S.&mdash;I have written a note this morning to Mr. Murray, 50, Albemarle
+      Street, the publisher, to help you, if necessary, in sending the Journal
+      by book post, or otherwise, to Agnes. If you call on him you will find him
+      a frank gentleman. A pleasant journey to you.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      David Livingstone.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To Henry M. Stanley, Esq., Wherever he may be found.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Several Wangwana arrived at Tura to join our returning Expedition, as they
+      were afraid to pass through Ugogo by themselves; others were reported
+      coming; but as all were sufficiently warned at Unyanyembe that the
+      departure of the caravan would take place positively on the 14th, I was
+      not disposed to wait longer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As we were leaving Tura, on the 21st, Susi and Hamoydah were sent back to
+      the Doctor, with last words from me, while we continued our march to
+      Nghwhalah River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Two days afterwards we arrived before the village of Ngaraisa, into which
+      the head of the caravan attempted to enter but the angry Wakimbu forcibly
+      ejected them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 24th, we encamped in the jungle, in what is called the "tongoni,"
+      or clearing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This region was at one period in a most flourishing state; the soil is
+      exceedingly fertile; the timber is large, and would be valuable near the
+      coast; and, what is highly appreciated in Africa, there is an abundance of
+      water. We camped near a smooth, broad hump of syenite, at one end of which
+      rose, upright and grand, a massive square rock, which towered above
+      several small trees in the vicinity; at the other end stood up another
+      singular rock, which was loosened at the base.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The members of the Expedition made use of the great sheet of rock to grind
+      their grain; a common proceeding in these lands where villages are not
+      near, or when the people are hostile.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 27th of March we entered Kiwyeh. At dawn, when leaving Mdaburu
+      River, the solemn warning had been given that we were about entering
+      Ugogo; and as we left Kaniyaga village, with trumpet-like blasts of the
+      guide's horn, we filed into the depths of an expanse of rustling Indian
+      corn. The ears were ripe enough for parching and roasting, and thus was
+      one anxiety dispelled by its appearance; for generally, in early March,
+      caravans suffer from famine, which overtakes both natives and strangers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We soon entered the gum-tree districts, and we knew we were in Ugogo. The
+      forests of this country are chiefly composed of the gum and thorn species&mdash;mimosa
+      and tamarisk, with often a variety of wild fruit trees. The grapes were
+      plentiful, though they were not quite ripe; and there was also a round,
+      reddish fruit with the sweetness of the Sultana grape, with leaves like a
+      gooseberry-bush. There was another about the size of an apricot, which was
+      excessively bitter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Emerging from the entangled thorn jungle, the extensive settlements of
+      Kiwyeh came into view; and to the east of the chief's village we found a
+      camping place under the shade of a group of colossal baobab.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We had barely encamped when we heard the booming, bellowing war horns
+      sounding everywhere, and we espied messengers darting swiftly in every
+      direction giving the alarm of war. When first informed that the horns were
+      calling the people to arm themselves, and prepare for war, I half
+      suspected that an attack was about to be made on the Expedition; but the
+      words "Urugu, warugu" (thief! thieves!)&mdash;bandied about, declared the
+      cause. Mukondoku, the chief of the populous district two days to the
+      north-east, where we experienced some excitement when westward-bound, was
+      marching to attack the young Mtemi, Kiwyeh, and Kiwyeh's soldiers were
+      called to the fight. The men rushed to their villages, and in a short time
+      we saw them arrayed in full fighting costume. Feathers of the ostrich and
+      the eagle waved over their fronts, or the mane of the zebra surrounded
+      their heads; their knees and ankles were hung with little bells; joho
+      robes floated behind, from their necks; spears, assegais, knob-sticks, and
+      bows were flourished over their heads, or held in their right hands, as if
+      ready for hurling. On each flank of a large body which issued from the
+      principal village, and which came at a uniform swinging double-quick, the
+      ankle and knee bells all chiming in admirable unison, were a cloud of
+      skirmishers, consisting of the most enthusiastic, who exercised themselves
+      in mimic war as they sped along. Column after column, companies, and
+      groups from every village hurried on past our camp until, probably, there
+      were nearly a thousand soldiers gone to the war. This scene gave me a
+      better idea than anything else of the weakness of even the largest
+      caravans which travelled between Zanzibar and Unyanyembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At night the warriors returned from the forest; the alarm proved to be
+      without foundation. At first it was generally reported that the invaders
+      were Wahehe, or the Wadirigo, as that tribe are scornfully called from
+      their thieving propensities. The Wahehe frequently make a foray upon the
+      fat cattle of Ugogo. They travel from their own country in the south-east,
+      and advance through the jungle, and when about to approach the herds,
+      stoop down, covering their bodies with their shields of bull-hide. Having
+      arrived between the cattle and the herdsmen, they suddenly rise up and
+      begin to switch the cattle heartily, and, having started them off into the
+      jungle in the care of men already detailed for the work, they turn about,
+      and plant their shields before them, to fight the aroused shepherds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 30th we arrived at Khonze, which is remarkable for the mighty
+      globes of foliage which the giant sycamores and baobabs put forth above
+      the plain. The chief of Khonze boasts of four tembes, out of which he
+      could muster in the aggregate fifty armed men; yet this fellow, instigated
+      by the Wanyamwezi residents, prepared to resist our advance, because I
+      only sent him three doti&mdash;twelve yards of cloth&mdash;as honga.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were halted, waiting the return of a few friendly Wagogo travellers who
+      had joined us, and who were asked to assist Bombay in the negotiation of
+      the tribute, when the Wagogo returned to us at breathless speed, and
+      shouted out to me, "Why do you halt here? Do you wish to die? These pagans
+      will not take the tribute, but they boast that they will eat up all your
+      cloth."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The renegade Wanyamwezi who had married into Wagogo families were always
+      our bane in this country. As the chief of Khonze came up I ordered the men
+      to load their guns, and I loaded my own ostentatiously in his presence,
+      and then strode up to him, and asked if he had come to take the cloth by
+      force, or if he were going to accept quietly what I would give him. As the
+      Mnyamwezi who caused this show of hostilities was beginning to speak, I
+      caught him by the throat, and threatened to make his nose flatter if he
+      attempted to speak again in my presence, and to shoot him first, if we
+      should be forced to fight. The rascal was then pushed away into the rear.
+      The chief, who was highly amused with this proceeding, laughed loudly at
+      the discomfiture of the parasite, and in a short time he and I had settled
+      the tribute to our mutual satisfaction, and we parted great friends. The
+      Expedition arrived at Sanza that night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 31st we came to Kanyenyi, to the great Mtemi&mdash;Magomba's&mdash;whose
+      son and heir is Mtundu M'gondeh. As we passed by the tembe of the great
+      Sultan, the msagira, or chief counsellor, a pleasant grey-haired man, was
+      at work making a thorn fence around a patch of young corn. He greeted the
+      caravan with a sonorous "Yambo," and, putting himself at its head, he led
+      the way to our camp. When introduced to me he was very cordial in his
+      manner. He was offered a kiti-stool and began to talk very affably. He
+      remembered my predecessors, Burton, Speke, and Grant, very well; declared
+      me to be much younger than any of them; and, recollecting that one of the
+      white men used to drink asses' milk (Burton?), offered to procure me some.
+      The way I drank it seemed to give him very great satisfaction.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      His son, Unamapokera, was a tall man of thirty or thereabouts, and he
+      conceived a great friendship for me, and promised that the tribute should
+      be very light, and that he would send a man to show me the way to Myumi,
+      which was a village on the frontier of Kanyenyi, by which I would be
+      enabled to avoid the rapacious Kisewah, who was in the habit of enforcing
+      large tribute from caravans.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With the aid of Unamapokera and his father, we contrived to be mulcted
+      very lightly, for we only paid ten doti, while Burton was compelled to pay
+      sixty doti or two hundred and forty yards of cloth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 1st of April, rising early, we reached Myumi after a four hours'
+      march; then plunged into the jungle, and, about 2 P.M. arrived at a large
+      ziwa, or pond, situate in the middle of a jungle; and on the next day, at
+      10 A.M., reached the fields of Mapanga. We were passing the village of
+      Mapanga to a resting-place beyond the village, where we might breakfast
+      and settle the honga, when a lad rushed forward to meet us, and asked us
+      where we were going. Having received a reply that we were going to a
+      camping-place, he hastened on ahead, and presently we heard him talking to
+      some men in a field on our right.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime, we had found a comfortable shady place, and had come to a
+      halt; the men were reclining on the ground, or standing up near their
+      respective loads; Bombay was about opening a bale, when we heard a great
+      rush of men, and loud shouts, and, immediately after, out rushed from the
+      jungle near by a body of forty or fifty armed men, who held their spears
+      above their heads, or were about to draw their bows, with a chief at their
+      head, all uttering such howls of rage as only savages can, which sounded
+      like a long-drawn "Hhaat-uh&mdash;Hhaat-uhh-uhh," which meant,
+      unmistakably, "You will, will you? No, you will not!"&mdash;at once
+      determined, defiant, and menacing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I had suspected that the voices I heard boded no good to us, and I had
+      accordingly prepared my weapons and cartridges. Verily, what a fine chance
+      for adventure this was! One spear flung at us, or one shot fired into this
+      minatory mob of savages, and the opposing' bands had been plunged into a
+      fatal conflict! There would have been no order of battle, no pomp of war,
+      but a murderous strife, a quick firing of breech-loaders, and volleys from
+      flint-lock muskets, mixed with the flying of spears and twanging of bows,
+      the cowardly running away at once, pursued by yelping savages; and who
+      knows how it all would have terminated? Forty spears against forty guns&mdash;but
+      how many guns would not have decamped? Perhaps all, and I should have been
+      left with my boy gunbearers to have my jugular deliberately severed, or to
+      be decapitated, leaving my head to adorn a tall pole in the centre of a
+      Kigogo village, like poor Monsieur Maizan's at Dege la Mhora, in Uzaramo.
+      Happy end of an Expedition! And the Doctor's Journal lost for ever&mdash;the
+      fruits of six years' labor!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But in this land it will not do to fight unless driven to the very last
+      extremity. No belligerent Mungo Park can be successful in Ugogo unless he
+      has a sufficient force of men with him. With five hundred Europeans one
+      could traverse Africa from north to south, by tact, and the moral effect
+      that such a force would inspire. Very little fighting would be required.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Without rising from the bale on which I was seated, I requested the
+      kirangozi to demand an explanation of their furious hubbub and threatening
+      aspect; if they were come to rob us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "No," said the chief; "we do not want to stop the road, or to rob you; but
+      we want the tribute."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "But don't you see us halted, and the bale opened to send it to you? We
+      have come so far from your village that after the tribute is settled we
+      can proceed on our way, as the day is yet young."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The chief burst into a loud laugh, and was joined by ourselves. He
+      evidently felt ashamed of his conduct for he voluntarily offered the
+      explanation, that as he and his men were cutting wood to make a new fence
+      for his village, a lad came up to him, and said that a caravan of Wangwana
+      were about passing through the country without stopping to explain who
+      they were. We were soon very good friends. He begged of me to make rain
+      for him, as his crops were suffering, and no rain had fallen for months. I
+      told him that though white people were very great and clever people, much
+      superior to the Arabs, yet we could not make rain. Though very much
+      disappointed, he did not doubt my statement, and after receiving his
+      honga, which was very light, he permitted us to go on our way, and even
+      accompanied us some distance to show us the road.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At 3 P.M. we entered a thorny jungle; and by 5 P.M. we had arrived at
+      Muhalata, a district lorded over by the chief Nyamzaga. A Mgogo, of whom I
+      made a friend, proved very staunch. He belonged to Mulowa, a country to
+      the S.S.E., and south of Kulabi; and was active in promoting my interests
+      by settling the tribute, with the assistance of Bombay, for me. When, on
+      the next day, we passed through Kulabi on our way to Mvumi, and the Wagogo
+      were about to stop us for the honga, he took upon himself the task of
+      relieving us from further toll, by stating we were from Ugogo or Kanyenyi.
+      The chief simply nodded his head, and we passed on. It seems that the
+      Wagogo do not exact blackmail of those caravans who intend only to trade
+      in their own country, or have no intention of passing beyond their own
+      frontier.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Leaving Kulabi, we traversed a naked, red, loamy plain, over which the
+      wind from the heights of Usagara, now rising a bluish-black jumble of
+      mountains in our front, howled most fearfully. With clear, keen, incisive
+      force, the terrible blasts seemed to penetrate through an through our
+      bodies, as though we were but filmy gauze. Manfully battling against this
+      mighty "peppo"&mdash;storm&mdash;we passed through Mukamwa's, and crossing
+      a broad sandy bed of a stream, we entered the territory of Mvumi, the last
+      tribute-levying chief of Ugogo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The 4th of April, after sending Bombay and my friendly Mgogo with eight
+      doti, or thirty-two yards of cloth, as a farewell tribute to the Sultan,
+      we struck off through the jungle, and in five hours we were on the borders
+      of the wilderness of "Marenga Mkali"&mdash;the "hard," bitter or brackish,
+      water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From our camp I despatched three men to Zanzibar with letters to the
+      American Consul, and telegraphic despatches for the 'Herald,' with a
+      request to the Consul that he would send the men back with a small case or
+      two containing such luxuries as hungry, worn-out, and mildewed men would
+      appreciate. The three messengers were charged not to halt for anything&mdash;rain
+      or no rain, river or inundation&mdash;as if they did not hurry up we
+      should catch them before they reached the coast. With a fervent
+      "Inshallah, bana," they departed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 5th, with a loud, vigorous, cheery "Hurrah!" we plunged into the
+      depths of the wilderness, which, with its eternal silence and solitude,
+      was far preferable to the jarring, inharmonious discord of the villages of
+      the Wagogo. For nine hours we held on our way, starting with noisy shouts
+      the fierce rhinoceros, the timid quagga, and the herds of antelopes which
+      crowd the jungles of this broad salina. On the 7th, amid a pelting rain,
+      we entered Mpwapwa, where my Scotch assistant, Farquhar, died. We had
+      performed the extraordinary march of 338 English statute miles from the
+      14th of March to the 7th of April, or within twenty-four days, inclusive
+      of halts, which was a little over fourteen miles a day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Leukole, the chief of Mpwapwa, with whom I left Farquhar, gave the
+      following account of the death of the latter:&mdash;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "The white man seemed to be improving after you left him, until the, fifth
+      day, when, while attempting to rise and walk out of his tent, he fell
+      back; from that minute he got worse and worse, and in the afternoon he
+      died, like one going to sleep. His legs and abdomen had swollen
+      considerably, and something, I think, broke within him when he fell, for
+      he cried out like a man who was very much hurt, and his servant said, 'The
+      master says he is dying.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "We had him carried out under a large tree, and after covering him with
+      leaves, there left him. His servant took possession of his things, his
+      rifle, clothes, and blanket, and moved off to the tembe of a Mnyamwezi,
+      near Kisokweh, where he lived for three months, when he also died. Before
+      he died he sold his master's rifle to an Arab going to Unyanyembe for ten
+      doti (forty yards of cloth). That is all I know about it."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He subsequently showed me the hollow into which the dead body of Farquhar
+      was thrown, but I could not find a vestige of his bones, though we looked
+      sharply about that we might make a decent grave for them. Before we left
+      Unyanyembe fifty men were employed two days carrying rocks, with which I
+      built up a solid enduring pile around Shaw's grave eight feet long and
+      five feet broad, which Dr. Livingstone said would last hundreds of years,
+      as the grave of the first white man who died in Unyamwezi. But though we
+      could not discover any remains of the unfortunate Farquhar, we collected a
+      large quantity of stones, and managed to raise a mound near the banks of
+      the stream to commemorate the spot where his body was laid.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was not until we had entered the valley of the Mukondokwa River that we
+      experienced anything like privation or hardship from the Masika. Here the
+      torrents thundered and roared; the river was a mighty brown flood,
+      sweeping downward with, an almost resistless flow. The banks were brimful,
+      and broad nullahs were full of water, and the fields were inundated, and
+      still the rain came surging down in a shower, that warned us of what we
+      might expect during our transit of the sea-coast region. Still we urged
+      our steps onward like men to whom every moment was precious&mdash;as if a
+      deluge was overtaking us. Three times we crossed this awful flood at the
+      fords by means of ropes tied to trees from bank to bank, and arrived at
+      Kadetamare on the 11th, a most miserable, most woe-begone set of human
+      beings; and camped on a hill opposite Mount Kibwe, which rose on the right
+      of the river&mdash;one of the tallest peaks of the range.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 12th of April, after six hours of the weariest march I had ever
+      undergone, we arrived at the mouth of the Mukondokwa Pass, out of which
+      the river debouches into the Plain of Makata. We knew that it was an
+      unusual season, for the condition of the country, though bad enough the
+      year before, was as nothing compared to this year. Close to the edge of
+      the foaming, angry flood lay our route, dipping down frequently into deep
+      ditches, wherein we found ourselves sometimes up to the waist in water,
+      and sometimes up to the throat. Urgent necessity impelled us onward, lest
+      we might have to camp at one of these villages until the end of the
+      monsoon rains; so we kept on, over marshy bottoms, up to the knees in
+      mire, under jungly tunnels dripping with wet, then into sloughs arm-pit
+      deep. Every channel seemed filled to overflowing, yet down the rain
+      poured, beating the surface of the river into yellowish foam, pelting us
+      until we were almost breathless. Half a day's battling against such
+      difficulties brought us, after crossing the river, once again to the
+      dismal village of Mvumi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We passed the night fighting swarms of black and voracious mosquitoes, and
+      in heroic endeavours to win repose in sleep, in which we were partly
+      successful, owing to the utter weariness of our bodies.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 13th we struck out of the village of Mvumi. It had rained the whole
+      night, and the morning brought no cessation. Mile after mile we traversed,
+      over fields covered by the inundation, until we came to a branch
+      river-side once again, where the river was narrow, and too deep to ford in
+      the middle. We proceeded to cut a tree down, and so contrived that it
+      should fall right across the stream. Over this fallen tree the men,
+      bestriding it, cautiously moved before them their bales and boxes; but one
+      young fellow, Rojab&mdash;through over-zeal, or in sheer madness&mdash;took
+      up the Doctor's box which contained his letters and Journal of his
+      discoveries on his head, and started into the river. I had been the first
+      to arrive on the opposite bank, in order to superintend the crossing; when
+      I caught sight of this man walking in the river with the most precious box
+      of all on his head. Suddenly he fell into a deep hole, and the man and box
+      went almost out of sight, while I was in an agony at the fate which
+      threatened the despatches. Fortunately, he recovered himself and stood up,
+      while I shouted to him, with a loaded revolver pointed at his head, "Look
+      out! Drop that bog, and I'll shoot you."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All the men halted in their work while they gazed at their comrade who was
+      thus imperilled by bullet and flood. The man himself seemed to regard the
+      pistol with the greatest awe, and after a few desperate efforts succeeded
+      in getting the box safely ashore. As the articles within were not damaged,
+      Rojab escaped punishment, with a caution not to touch the bog again on any
+      account, and it was transferred to the keeping of the sure-footed and
+      perfect pagazi, Maganga.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From this stream, in about an hour, we came to the main river, but one
+      look at its wild waters was enough. We worked hard to construct a raft,
+      but after cutting down four trees and lashing the green logs together, and
+      pushing them into the whirling current, we saw them sink like lead. We
+      then tied together all the strong rope in our possession, and made a line
+      180 feet long, with one end of which tied round his body, Chowpereh was
+      sent across to lash it to a tree. He was carried far down the stream; but
+      being an excellent swimmer, he succeeded in his attempt. The bales were
+      lashed around the middle, and, heaved into the stream, were dragged
+      through the river to the opposite bank, as well as the tent, and such
+      things as could not be injured much by the water. Several of the men, as
+      well as myself, were also dragged through the water; each of the boys
+      being attended by the best swimmers; but when we came to the letter-boxes
+      and valuables, we could suggest no means to take them over. Two camps were
+      accordingly made, one on each side of the stream; the one on the bank
+      which I had just left occupying an ant-hill of considerable height; while
+      my party had to content itself with a flat, miry marsh. An embankment of
+      soil, nearly a foot high, was thrown up in a circle thirty feet in
+      diameter, in the centre of which my tent was pitched, and around it booths
+      were erected.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was an extraordinary and novel position that we found ourselves in.
+      Within twenty feet of our camp was a rising river, with flat, low banks;
+      above us was a gloomy, weeping sky; surrounding us on three sides was an
+      immense forest, on whose branches we heard the constant, pattering rain;
+      beneath our feet was a great depth of mud, black and loathsome; add to
+      these the thought that the river might overflow, and sweep us to utter
+      destruction.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the morning the river was still rising, and an inevitable doom seemed
+      to hang over us. There was yet time to act&mdash;to bring over the people,
+      with the most valuable effects of the Expedition&mdash;as I considered Dr.
+      Livingstone's Journal and letters, and my own papers, of far greater value
+      than anything else. While looking at the awful river an idea struck me
+      that I might possibly carry the boxes across, one at a time, by cutting
+      two slender poles, and tying cross sticks to them, making a kind of
+      hand-barrow, on which a box might rest when lashed to it. Two men swimming
+      across, at the same time holding on to the rope, with the ends of the
+      poles resting on the men's shoulders, I thought, would be enabled to
+      convey over a 70 lb. box with ease. In a short time one of these was made,
+      and six couples of the strongest swimmers were prepared, and stimulated
+      with a rousing glass of stiff grog each man, with a promise of cloth to
+      each also if they succeeded in getting everything ashore undamaged by the
+      water. When I saw with what ease they dragged themselves across, the
+      barrow on their shoulders, I wondered that I had not thought of the plan
+      before. Within an hour of the first couple had gone over, the entire
+      Expedition was safe on the eastern bank; and at once breaking camp, we
+      marched north through the swampy forest, which in some places was covered
+      with four feet of water. Seven hours' constant splashing brought us to
+      Rehenneko, after experiencing several queer accidents. We were now on the
+      verge only of the inundated plain of the Makata, which, even with the last
+      year's rain, was too horrible to think of undertaking again in cold blood.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were encamped ten days on a hill near Rehenneko, or until the 25th,
+      when, the rain having entirely ceased, we resolved to attempt the crossing
+      of the Makata. The bales of cloth had all been distributed as presents to
+      the men for their work, except a small quantity which I retained for the
+      food of my own mess.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But we should have waited a month longer, for the inundation had not
+      abated four inches. However, after we once struggled up to our necks in
+      water it was use less to turn back. For two marches of eight hours each we
+      plunged through slush, mire, deep sloughs, water up to our necks, and
+      muddy cataclysms, swam across nullahs, waded across gullies, and near
+      sunset of the second day arrived on the banks of the Makata River. My
+      people are not likely to forget that night; not one of them was able to
+      sleep until it was long past midnight, because of the clouds of
+      mosquitoes, which threatened to eat us all up; and when the horn sounded
+      for the march of another day, there was not one dissentient amongst them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was 5 A.M. when we began the crossing of the Makata River, but beyond
+      it for six miles stretched one long lake, the waters of which flowed
+      gently towards the Wami. This was the confluence of the streams: four
+      rivers were here gathered into one. The natives of Kigongo warned us not
+      to attempt it, as the water was over our heads; but I had only to give a
+      hint to the men, and we set on our way. Even the water&mdash;we were
+      getting quite amphibious&mdash;was better than the horrible filth and
+      piles of decaying vegetation which were swept against the boma of the
+      village.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We were soon up to our armpits, then the water shallowed to the knee, then
+      we stepped up to the neck, and waded on tiptoe, supporting the children
+      above the water; and the same experiences occurred as those which we
+      suffered the day before, until we were halted on the edge of the Little
+      Makata, which raced along at the rate of eight knots an hour; but it was
+      only fifty yards wide, and beyond it rose a high bank, and dry park-lands
+      which extended as far as Simbo. We had no other option than to swim it;
+      but it was a slow operation, the current was so swift and strong. Activity
+      and zeal, high rewards, presents of money, backed by the lively feeling
+      that we were nearing home, worked wonders, and in a couple of hours we
+      were beyond the Makata.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Cheery and hopeful, we sped along the dry, smooth path that now lay before
+      us, with the ardor and vivacity of heroes, and the ease and power of
+      veterans, We rolled three ordinary marches into one that day, and long
+      before night arrived at Simbo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 29th we crossed the Ungerengeri, and as we came to Simbamwenni-the
+      "Lion City" of Useguhha&mdash;lo! what a change! The flooded river had
+      swept the entire front wall of the strongly-walled city away, and about
+      fifty houses had been destroyed by the torrent. Villages of Waruguru, on
+      the slopes of the Uruguru Mountains&mdash;Mkambaku range&mdash;had also
+      suffered disastrously. If one-fourth of the reports we heard were true, at
+      least a hundred people must have perished.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Sultana had fled, and the stronghold of Kimbengo was no more! A deep
+      canal that he had caused to be excavated when alive, to bring a branch of
+      the Ungerengeri near his city&mdash;which was his glory and boast&mdash;proved
+      the ruin of Simbamwenni. After the destruction of the place the river had
+      formed a new bed, about 300 yards from the city. But what astonished us
+      most were the masses of debris which seemed to be piled everywhere, and
+      the great numbers of trees that were prostrate; and they all seemed to lie
+      in the same direction, as if a strong wind had come from the south-west.
+      The aspect of the Ungerengeri valley was completely changed&mdash;from a
+      Paradise it was converted into a howling waste.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We continued our march until we reached Ulagalla, and it was evident, as
+      we advanced, that an unusual storm had passed over the land, for the trees
+      in some places seemed to lie in swathes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A most fatiguing and long march brought us to Mussoudi, on the eastern
+      bank of the Ungerengeri; but long before we reached it we realized that a
+      terrific destruction of human life and property had occurred. The extent
+      and nature of the calamity may be imagined, when I state that nearly ONE
+      HUNDRED VILLAGES, according to Mussoudi's report, were swept away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mussoudi, the Diwan, says that the inhabitants had gone to rest as usual&mdash;as
+      they had done ever since he had settled in the valley, twenty-five years
+      ago&mdash;when, in the middle of the night, they heard a roar like many
+      thunders, which woke them up to the fact that death was at work in the
+      shape of an enormous volume of water, that, like a wall, came down,
+      tearing the tallest trees with it, carrying away scores of villages at one
+      fell, sure swoop into utter destruction. The scene six days after the
+      event&mdash;when the river has subsided into its normal breadth and depth
+      during the monsoons&mdash;is simply awful. Wherever we look, we find
+      something very suggestive of the devastation that has visited the country;
+      fields of corn are covered with many feet of sand and debris; the sandy
+      bed the river has deserted is about a mile wide; and there are but three
+      villages standing of all that I noticed when en route to Unyanyembe. When
+      I asked Mussoudi where the people had gone to, he replied, "God has taken
+      most of them, but some have gone to Udoe." The surest blow ever struck at
+      the tribe of the Wakami was indeed given by the hand of God; and, to use
+      the words of the Diwan, "God's power is wonderful, and who can resist
+      Him!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I again resort to my Diary, and extract the following:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      April 30th.&mdash;Passing Msuwa, we travelled hurriedly through the jungle
+      which saw such hard work with us when going to Unyanyembe. What dreadful
+      odors and indescribable loathing this jungle produces! It is so dense that
+      a tiger could not crawl through it; it is so impenetrable that an elephant
+      could not force his way! Were a bottleful of concentrated miasma, such as
+      we inhale herein, collected, what a deadly poison, instantaneous in its
+      action, undiscoverable in its properties, would it be! I think it would
+      act quicker than chloroform, be as fatal as prussic acid.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Horrors upon horrors are in it. Boas above our heads, snakes and scorpions
+      under our feet. Land-crabs, terrapins, and iguanas move about in our
+      vicinity. Malaria is in the air we breathe; the road is infested with
+      "hotwater" ants, which bite our legs until we dance and squirm about like
+      madmen. Yet, somehow, we are fortunate enough to escape annihilation, and
+      many another traveller might also. Yet here, in verity, are the ten
+      plagues of Egypt, through which a traveller in these regions must run the
+      gauntlet:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      1. Plague of boas. | 7. Suffocation from the 2. Red ants, or "hot-water."
+      | density of the jungle. 3 Scorpions. | 8. Stench. 4. Thorns and spear
+      cacti. | 9. Thorns in the road. 5. Numerous impediments. | 10. Miasma. 6
+      Black mud knee-deep. |
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      May 1st. Kingaru Hera.&mdash;We heard news of a great storm having raged
+      at Zanzibar, which has destroyed every house and every ship,&mdash;so the
+      story runs;&mdash;and the same destruction has visited Bagamoyo and
+      Whinde, they say. But I am by this time pretty well acquainted with the
+      exaggerative tendency of the African. It is possible that serious loss has
+      been sustained, from the evidences of the effects of the storm in the
+      interior. I hear, also, that there are white men at Bagamoyo, who are
+      about starting into the country to look after me (?). Who would look after
+      me, I cannot imagine. I think they must have some confused idea of my
+      Expedition; though, how they came to know that I was looking for any man I
+      cannot conceive, because I never told a soul until I reached Unyanyembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      May 2nd. Rosako.&mdash;I had barely arrived at the village before the
+      three men I despatched from Mvumi, Ugogo, entered, bringing with them from
+      the generous American Consul a few bottles of champagne, a few pots of
+      jam, and two boxes of Boston crackers. These were most welcome after my
+      terrible experiences in the Makata Valley. Inside one of these boxes,
+      carefully put up by the Consul, were four numbers of the 'Herald'; one of
+      which contained my correspondence from Unyanyembe, wherein were some
+      curious typographical errors, especially in figures and African names. I
+      suppose my writing was wretched, owing to my weakness. In another are
+      several extracts from various newspapers, in which I learn that many
+      editors regard the Expedition into Africa as a myth. Alas! it has been a
+      terrible, earnest fact with me; nothing but hard, conscientious work,
+      privation, sickness, and almost death. Eighteen men have paid the forfeit
+      of their lives in the undertaking. It certainly is not a myth&mdash;the
+      death of my two white assistants; they, poor fellows, found their fate in
+      the inhospitable regions of the interior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One of my letters received from Zanzibar by my messengers states that
+      there is an expedition at Bagamoyo called the "Livingstone Search and
+      Relief Expedition." What will the leaders of it do now? Livingstone is
+      found and relieved already. Livingstone says he requires nothing more. It
+      is a misfortune that they did not start earlier; then they might with
+      propriety proceed, and be welcomed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      May 4th.&mdash;-Arrived at Kingwere's Ferry, but we were unable to attract
+      the attention of the canoe paddler. Between our camp and Bagamoyo we have
+      an inundated plain that is at least four miles broad. The ferrying of our
+      Expedition across this broad watery waste will occupy considerable time.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      May 5th.&mdash;Kingwere, the canoe proprietor, came about 11 A.M. from his
+      village at Gongoni, beyond the watery plain. By his movements I am fain to
+      believe him to be a descendant of some dusky King Log, for I have never
+      seen in all this land the attributes and peculiarities of that royal
+      personage so faithfully illustrated as in Kingwere. He brought two canoes
+      with him, short, cranky things, in which only twelve of us could embark at
+      a time. It was 3 o'clock in the afternoon before we arrived at Gongoni
+      village.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      May 6th.&mdash;After impressing Kingwere with the urgent necessity of
+      quick action on his part, with a promise of an extra five-dollar gold
+      piece, I had the satisfaction to behold the last man reach my camp at 3.30
+      p.m.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      An hour later, and we are en route, at a pace that I never saw equalled at
+      any time by my caravan. Every man's feelings are intensified, for there is
+      an animated, nay, headlong, impetuosity about their movements that
+      indicates but too well what is going on in their minds. Surely, my own are
+      a faithful index to their feelings; and I do not feel a whit too proud to
+      acknowledge the great joy that possesses me. I feel proud to think that I
+      have been successful; but, honestly, I do not feel so elated at that as at
+      the hope that to-morrow I shall sit before a table bounteous with the good
+      things of this life. How I will glory in the hams, and potatoes, and good
+      bread! What a deplorable state of mind, is it not? Ah, my friend, wait
+      till you are reduced to a skeleton by gaunt famine and coarse, loathsome
+      food&mdash;until you have waded a Makata swamp, and marched 525 miles in
+      thirty-five days through such weather as we have had&mdash;then you will
+      think such pabula, food fit for gods!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Happy are we that,&mdash;after completing our mission, after the hurry and
+      worry of the march, after the anxiety and vexation suffered from fractious
+      tribes, after tramping for the last fifteen days through mire and Stygian
+      marsh,&mdash;we near Beulah's peace and rest! Can we do otherwise than
+      express our happiness by firing away gunpowder until our horns are emptied&mdash;than
+      shout our "hurrahs" until we are hoarse&mdash;than, with the hearty,
+      soul-inspiring "Yambos," greet every mother's son fresh from the sea? Not
+      so, think the Wangwana soldiers; and I so sympathize with them that I
+      permit them to act their maddest without censure.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At sunset we enter the town of Bagamoyo. "More pilgrims come to town,"
+      were the words heard in Beulah. "The white man has come to town," were the
+      words we heard in Bagamoyo. And we shall cross the water tomorrow to
+      Zanzibar, and shall enter the golden gate; we shall see nothing, smell
+      nothing, taste nothing that is offensive to the stomach any more!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The kirangozi blows his horn, and gives forth blasts potential as
+      Astolpho's, as the natives and Arabs throng around us. And that bright
+      flag, whose stars have waved over the waters of the great lake in Central
+      Africa, which promised relief to the harassed Livingstone when in distress
+      at Ujiji, returns to the sea once again&mdash;torn, it is true, but not
+      dishonoured&mdash;tattered, but not disgraced.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As we reached the middle of the town, I saw on the steps of a large white
+      house a white man, in flannels and helmet similar to that I wore. I
+      thought myself rather akin to white men in general, and I walked up to
+      him. He advanced towards me, and we shook hands&mdash;did everything but
+      embrace.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Won't you walk in?" said he.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Thanks."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "What will you have to drink&mdash;beer, stout, brandy? Eh, by George! I
+      congratulate you on your splendid success," said he, impetuously.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I knew him immediately. He was an Englishman. He was Lieut. William Henn,
+      R.N., chief of the Livingstone Search and Relief Expedition, about to be
+      despatched by the Royal Geographical Society to find and relieve
+      Livingstone. The former chief, as the Expedition was at first organized,
+      was Lieut. Llewellyn S. Dawson, who, as soon as he heard from my men that
+      I had found Livingstone, had crossed over to Zanzibar, and, after
+      consultation with Dr. John Kirk, had resigned. He had now nothing further
+      to do with it, the command having formally devolved on Lieut. Henn. A Mr.
+      Charles New, also, missionary from Mombasah, had joined the expedition,
+      but he had resigned too. So now there were left but Lieut. Henn and Mr.
+      Oswell Livingstone, second son of the Doctor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Is Mr. Oswell Livingstone here?" I asked, with considerable surprise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes; he will be here directly."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "What are you going to do now?" I asked.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I don't think it worth my while to go now. You have taken the wind out of
+      our sails completely. If you have relieved him, I don't see the use of my
+      going. Do you?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, it depends. You know your own orders best. If you have come only to
+      find and relieve him, I can tell you truly he is found and relieved, and
+      that he wants nothing more than a few canned meats, and some other little
+      things which I dare say you have not got. I have his list in his own
+      handwriting with me. But his son must go anyhow, and I can get men easily
+      enough for him."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, if he is relieved, it is of no use my going."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At this time in walked a slight, young, gentlemanly man, with light
+      complexion, light hair, dark, lustrous eyes, who was introduced to me as
+      Mr. Oswell Livingstone. The introduction was hardly necessary, for in his
+      features there was much of what were the specialities of his father. There
+      was an air of quiet resolution about him, and in the greeting which he
+      gave me he exhibited rather a reticent character; but I attributed that to
+      a receptive nature, which augured well for the future.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I was telling Lieut. Henn that, whether he goes or not, you must go to
+      your father, Mr. Livingstone."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh, I mean to go."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes, that's right. I will furnish you with men and what stores your
+      father needs. My men will take you to Unyanyembe without any difficulty.
+      They know the road well, and that is a great advantage. They know how to
+      deal with the negro chiefs, and you will have no need to trouble your head
+      about them, but march. The great thing that is required is speed. Your
+      father will be waiting for the things."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I will march them fast enough, if that is all."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Oh, they will be going up light, and they can easily make long marches."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was settled, then. Henn made up his mind that, as the Doctor had been
+      relieved, he was not wanted; but, before formally resigning, he intended
+      to consult with Dr. Kirk, and for that purpose he would cross over to
+      Zanzibar the next day with the 'Herald' Expedition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At 2 A.M. I retired to sleep on a comfortable bed. There was a great smell
+      of newness about certain articles in the bedroom, such as haversacks,
+      knapsacks, portmanteaus, leather gun-cases, &amp;c. Evidently the new
+      Expedition had some crudities about it; but a journey into the interior
+      would soon have lessened the stock of superfluities, which all new men at
+      first load themselves with.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ah! what a sigh of relief was that I gave, as I threw myself on my bed, at
+      the thought that, "Thank God! my marching was ended."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      CHAPTER XVI. &mdash; VALEDICTORY.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      At 5 P.M., on the 7th of May, 1872, the dhow which conveyed my Expedition
+      back to Zanzibar arrived in the harbor, and the men, delighted to find
+      themselves once more so near their homes, fired volley after volley, the
+      American flag was hoisted up, and we soon saw the house-roofs and wharves
+      lined with spectators, many of whom were Europeans, with glasses levelled
+      at us.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We drew ashore slowly; but a boat putting off to take us to land, we
+      stepped into it, and I was soon in presence of my friend the Consul, who
+      heartily welcomed me back to Zanzibar; and soon after was introduced to
+      the Rev. Charles New, who was but a day or two previous to my arrival an
+      important member of the English Search Expedition&mdash;a small, slight
+      man in appearance, who, though he looked weakly, had a fund of energy or
+      nervousness in him which was almost too great for such a body. He also
+      heartily congratulated me.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a bounteous dinner, to which I did justice in a manner that
+      astonished my new friends, Lieut. Dawson called to see me, and said:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Mr. Stanley, let me congratulate you, sir."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Lieut. Dawson then went on to state how he envied me my success; how I had
+      "taken the wind out of his sails" (a nautical phrase similar to that used
+      by Lieut. Henn); how, when he heard from my men that Dr. Livingstone had
+      been found, he at once crossed over from Bagamoyo to Zanzibar, and, after
+      a short talk with Dr. Kirk, at once resigned.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "But do you not think, Mr. Dawson, you have been rather too hasty in
+      tendering your resignation, from the more verbal report of my men?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Perhaps," said he; "but I heard that Mr. Webb had received a letter from
+      you, and that you and Livingstone had discovered that the Rusizi ran into
+      the lake&mdash;that you had the Doctor's letters and despatches with you."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes; but you acquired all this information from my men; you have seen
+      nothing yourself. You have therefore resigned before you had personal
+      evidence of the fact."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Well, Dr. Livingstone is relieved and found, as Mr. Henn tells me, is he
+      not?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Yes, that is true enough. He is well supplied; he only requires a few
+      little luxuries, which I am going to send him by an expedition of fifty
+      freemen. Dr. Livingstone is found and relieved, most certainly; and I have
+      all the letters and despatches which he could possibly send to his
+      friends."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "But don't you think I did perfectly right?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Hardly&mdash;though, perhaps, it would come to the same thing in the end.
+      Any more cloth and beads than he has already would be an incumbrance.
+      Still, you have your orders from the Royal Geographical Society. I have
+      not seen those yet, and I am not prepared to judge what your best course
+      would have been. But I think you did wrong in resigning before you saw me;
+      for then you would have had, probably, a legitimate excuse for resigning.
+      I should have held on to the Expedition until I had consulted with those
+      who sent me; though, in such an event as this, the order would be,
+      perhaps, to 'Come home.'"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "As it has turned out, though, don't you think I did right?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Most certainly it would be useless for you to go to search for and
+      relieve Livingstone now, because he has already been sought, found, and
+      relieved; but perhaps you had other orders."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Only, if I went into the country, I was then to direct my attention to
+      exploration; but the primary object having been forestalled by you, I am
+      compelled to return home. The Admiralty granted me leave of absence only
+      for the search, and never said anything about exploration."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      That evening I despatched a boy over to the English Consulate with letters
+      from the great traveller for Dr. Kirk and Mr. Oswell Livingstone.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I was greeted warmly by the American and German residents, who could not
+      have shown warmer feeling than if Dr. Livingstone had been a near and dear
+      relation of their own. Capt. H. A. Fraser and Dr. James Christie were also
+      loud in their praises. It seems that both of these gentlemen had attempted
+      to despatch a private expedition to the relief of their countryman, but
+      through some means it had failed. They had contributed the sum of $500 to
+      effect this laudable object; but the man to whom they had entrusted its
+      command had been engaged by another for a different purpose, at a higher
+      sum. But, instead of feeling annoyed that I had performed what they had
+      intended to do, they were among my most enthusiastic admirers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day I received a call from Dr. Kirk, who warmly congratulated me
+      upon my success. Bishop Tozer also came, and thanked me for tie service I
+      had rendered to Dr. Livingstone.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On this day I also discharged my men, and re-engaged twenty of them to
+      return to the "Great Master." Bombay, though in the interior he had
+      scorned the idea of money rewards, and though he had systematically, in my
+      greatest need, endeavoured to baffle me in every way, received, besides
+      his pay, a present of $50, and each man, according to his merits, from $20
+      to $50. For this was a day to bury all animosities, and condone all
+      offences. They, poor people, had only acted according to their nature, and
+      I remembered that from Ujiji to the coast they had all behaved admirably.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I saw I was terribly emaciated and changed when I presented myself before
+      a full-length mirror. All confirmed my opinion that I was much older in my
+      appearance, and that my hair had become grey. Capt. Fraser had said, when
+      I hailed him, "You have the advantage of me, sir!" and until I mentioned
+      my name he did not know me. Even then he jocosely remarked that he
+      believed that it was another Tichborne affair. I was so different that
+      identity was almost lost, even during the short period of thirteen months;
+      that is, from March 23rd, 1871, to May 7th, 1872.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Lieut. Henn the morning after my arrival formally resigned, and the
+      Expedition was from this time in the hands of Mr. Oswell Livingstone, who
+      made up his mind to sell the stores, retaining such as would be useful to
+      his father.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After disbanding my Expedition, I set about preparing another, according
+      to Dr. Livingstone's request. What the English Expedition lacked I
+      purchased out of the money advanced by Mr. Oswell Livingstone. The guns,
+      fifty in number, were also furnished out of the stores of the English
+      Expedition by him; and so were the ammunition, the honga cloth, for the
+      tribute to the Wagogo, and the cloth for provisioning the force. Mr.
+      Livingstone worked hard in the interests of his father and assisted me to
+      the utmost of his ability. He delivered over to me, to be packed up,
+      'Nautical Almanacs' for 1872, 1873, 1874; also a chronometer, which
+      formerly belonged to Dr. Livingstone. All these things, besides a journal,
+      envelopes, note-books, writing-paper, medicines, canned fruits and fish, a
+      little wine, some tea, cutlery and table ware, newspapers, and private
+      letters and despatches, were packed up in air-tight tin boxes, as well as
+      100 lbs. of fine American flour, and some boxes of soda biscuits.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Until the 19th of May it was understood that Mr. Oswell Livingstone would
+      take charge of the caravan to his father; but about this date he changed
+      his mind, and surprised me with a note stating he had decided not to go to
+      Unyanyembe, for reasons he thought just and sufficient.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Under these circumstances, my duty was to follow out the instructions of
+      Dr. Livingstone, in procuring a good and efficient leader to take charge
+      of the caravan as far as Unyanyembe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In a few hours I succeeded in obtaining an Arab highly recommended from
+      Sheikh Hashid, whom I engaged at an advance of $100. The young Arab,
+      though not remarkably bright, seemed honest and able, but I left his
+      further employment after reaching Unyanyembe to Dr. Livingstone, who would
+      be able to decide then whether he was quite trustworthy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day I collected the men of the new Livingstone Expedition
+      together, and as it was dangerous to allow them to wander about the city,
+      I locked them up in a courtyard, and fed them there, until every soul,
+      fifty seven in number, answered to their names.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime, through the American Consul's assistance, I obtained the
+      services of Johari, the chief dragoman of the American Consulate, who was
+      charged with the conduct of the party across the inundated plain of the
+      Kingani, and who was enjoined on no account to return until the Expedition
+      had started on its march from the western bank of the Kingani River. Mr.
+      Oswell Livingstone generously paid him a douceur for the promise of doing
+      his work thoroughly.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A dhow having been brought to anchor before the American Consulate, I then
+      addressed my old companions, saying, "You are now about to return to
+      Unyanyembe, to the 'Great Master'. You know him; you know he is a good
+      man, and has a kind heart. He is different from me; he will not beat you,
+      as I have done. But you know I have rewarded you all&mdash;how I have made
+      you all rich in cloth and money. You know how, when you behaved yourselves
+      well, I was your friend. I gave you plenty to eat and plenty to wear. When
+      you were sick I looked after you. If I was so good to you, the 'Great
+      Master' will be much more so. He has a pleasant voice, and speaks kind.
+      When did you ever see him lift his hand against an offender? When you were
+      wicked, he did not speak to you in anger&mdash;he spoke to you in tones of
+      sorrow. Now, will you promise me that you will follow him&mdash;do what he
+      tells you, obey him in all things, and not desert him?"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "We will, we will, my master!" they all cried, fervently.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Then there is one thing more. I want to shake hands with you all before
+      you go&mdash;and we part for ever;" and they all rushed up at once, and a
+      vigorous shake was interchanged with each man.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Now, let every man take up his load!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In a short time I marched them out into the street, and to the beach; saw
+      them all on board, and the canvas hoisted, and the dhow speeding westward
+      on her way to Bagamoyo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I felt strange and lonely, somehow. My dark friends, who had travelled
+      over so many hundreds of miles, and shared so many dangers with me, were
+      gone, and I&mdash;was left behind. How many of their friendly faces shall
+      I see again?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 29th, the steamer 'Africa,' belonging to the German Consulate, was
+      chartered by a party of five of us, and we departed from Zanzibar to
+      Seychelles, with the good wishes of almost all the European residents on
+      the island.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We arrived at Seychelles on the 9th of June, about twelve hours after the
+      French mail had departed for Aden. As there is only monthly communication
+      between Mahe (Seychelles) and Aden, we were compelled to remain on the
+      island of Mahe one month.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      My life in Mahe is among the most agreeable things connected with my
+      return from Africa. I found my companions estimable gentlemen, and true
+      Christians. Mr. Livingstone exhibited many amiable traits of character,
+      and proved himself to be a studious, thoughtful, earnest man. When at last
+      the French steamer came from Mauritius, there was not one of our party who
+      did not regret leaving the beautiful island, and the hospitable British
+      officers who were stationed there. The Civil Commissioner, Mr. Hales
+      Franklyn, and Dr. Brooks, did their utmost to welcome the wanderer, and I
+      take this opportunity to acknowledge the many civilities I personally
+      received from them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Aden, the passengers from the south were transferred on board the
+      French mail steamer, the 'Mei-kong,' en route from China to Marseilles. At
+      the latter port I was received with open arms by Dr. Hosmer and the
+      representative of the 'Daily Telegraph,' and was then told how men
+      regarded the results of the Expedition; but it was not until I arrived in
+      England that I realised it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mr. Bennett, who originated and sustained the enterprise, now crowned it
+      by one of the most generous acts that could be conceived. I had promised
+      Dr. Livingstone, that twenty-four hours after I saw his letters to Mr.
+      Bennett published in the London journals, I would post his letters to his
+      family and friends in England. In order to permit me to keep my plighted
+      word, and in order that there might be no delay in the delivery of his
+      family letters, Mr. Bennett's agent telegraphed to New York the 'Herald'
+      letters I had received from Dr. Livingstone at an expense of nearly
+      £2,000.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      And now, dear reader, the time has come for you and I to part. Let us hope
+      that it is not final. A traveller finds himself compelled to repeat the
+      regretful parting word often. During the career recorded in the foregoing
+      book, I have bidden many farewells; to the Wagogo, with their fierce
+      effrontery; to Mionvu, whose blackmailing once so affected me; to the
+      Wavinza, whose noisy clatter promised to provoke dire hostilities; to the
+      inhospitable Warundi; to the Arab slave-traders and half-castes; to all
+      fevers, remittent, and intermittent; to the sloughs and swamps of Makata;
+      to the brackish waters and howling wastes; to my own dusky friends and
+      followers, and to the hero-traveller and Christian gentleman, David
+      Livingstone. It is with kindliest wishes to all who have followed my
+      footsteps on these pages that I repeat once more&mdash;Farewell.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      CONCLUDING CHAPTER.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The following correspondence, and especially the last letter, which was
+      accompanied by a beautiful and valuable gold snuff-box set with
+      brilliants, will be treasured by me as among the pleasantest results of my
+      undertaking.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      H. M. S.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Foreign Office, August 1.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sir, I am directed by Earl Granville to acknowledge the receipt of a
+      packet containing letters and despatches from Dr. Livingstone, which you
+      were good enough to deliver to her Majesty's ambassador at Paris for
+      transmission to this department; and I am to convey to you his Lordship's
+      thanks for taking charge of these interesting documents.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I am, Sir,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Your most obedient humble servant, ENFIELD.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Henry M. Stanley, Esq., 'New York Herald Bureau,' 46, Fleet Street,
+      London,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;ooo&mdash;&mdash;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      London, August 2.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Henry M. Stanley, Esq., has handed to me to-day the diary of Dr.
+      Livingstone, my father, sealed and signed by my father, with instructions
+      written on the outside, signed by my father, for the care of which, and
+      for all his actions concerning and to my father, our very best thanks are
+      due. We have not the slightest reason to doubt that this is my father's
+      journal, and I certify that the letters he has brought home are my
+      father's letters, and no others.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Tom S. Livingstone
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;oooo&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      August 2, 1872.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sir, I was not aware until you mentioned it that there was any doubt as to
+      the authenticity of Dr. Livingstone's despatches, which you delivered to
+      Lord Lyons on the 31st of July. But, in consequence of what you said I
+      have inquired into the matter, and I find that Mr. Hammond, the
+      Under-Secretary of the Foreign Office, and Mr. Wylde, the head of the
+      Consular and Slave Trade Department, have not the slightest doubt as to
+      the genuineness of the papers which have been received from Lord Lyons,
+      and which are being printed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I cannot omit this opportunity, of expressing to you my admiration of the
+      qualities which have enabled you to achieve the object of your mission,
+      and to attain a result which has been hailed with so much enthusiasm both
+      in the United States and in this country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I am, Sir,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Your obedient,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      GRANVILLE.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Henry Stanley, Esq.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-oooo&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Foreign Office, August 27.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      SIR,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have great satisfaction in conveying to you, by command of the Queen,
+      her Majesty's high appreciation of the prudence and zeal which you have
+      displayed in opening a communication with Dr. Livingstone, and relieving
+      her Majesty from the anxiety which, in common with her subjects, she had
+      felt in regard to the fate of that distinguished traveller.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Queen desires me to express her thanks for the service you have thus
+      rendered, together with her Majesty's congratulations on your having so
+      successfully carried on the mission which you fearlessly undertook. Her
+      Majesty also desires me to request your acceptance of the memorial which
+      accompanies this letter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I am, Sir,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Your most obedient humble servant,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      GRANVILLE
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  GLOSSARY.
+
+  Boma.......   enclosure.
+
+  Bubu.......   black beads.
+
+  Diwan......   elder, chief, or magistrate.
+
+  Doti......   four yards of cloth.
+
+  Dowa......   medicine.
+
+  Fundo......    ten necklaces, or ten khetes.
+
+  Ghulabio.....    a species of bead.
+
+  Hafde .....    a species of bead.
+
+  Hamal .....    carrier.
+
+  Honga .....    tribute.
+
+  Ismahili.....    a native name for a particular kind of cloth.
+
+  Kadunguru.....    a brick-coloured species of bead.
+
+  Kaif-Halek....    "How do you do?"
+
+  Kaniki   ....    a blue cloth manufactured in India.
+
+  Knambi   ....    camp.
+
+  Khete   ....    one necklace, or a tenth of a fundo.
+
+  Kichuma-chuma...    "Little Irons," a disease of the liver.
+
+  Kirangozi....      guide.
+
+  Kitambi ....      a cloth.
+
+  Kiti.....      stool.
+
+  Lakhio.....      a pink-coloured species of bead.
+
+  Lunghio.....      blue beads.
+
+  Lunghio mbamba...      small blue beads.
+
+  Lunghio rega...      large blue beads.
+
+  M    .....      a prefix to denote a person of any
+                              country as M-jiji, a native of Jiji.
+
+  Manyapara....      elder, or sub-chief.
+
+  Matama.....      Holcus sorghum, or the Arabic dourra.
+
+  Mbembu.....      forest peach
+
+  Merikani.....      unbleached domestics manufactured in
+                              America.
+
+  Mganga.....      a medicine man, or magic doctor,
+
+  Miezi-Mungu....      a Kisawahili term for "God."
+
+  Mtemi   ....      a term synonymous with king
+
+  Mtoni.....      nullah.
+
+  Muhongo.....      tribute.
+
+  Mulungu.....      a native term for "God."
+
+  Mukunguru....      intermittent fever.
+
+  Mvuha.....      thunder.
+
+  Ngombe.....      a cow.
+
+  Pagazi.....      a porter, or carrier.
+
+  Posho.....      food.
+
+  Sami-Sami....      the name of red beads
+
+  Shamba.....      a field.
+
+  Shasr.....      a muslin cloth.
+
+  Sheikh.....      a title of courtesy given to an elderly
+                              man.
+
+  Shukka.....      two yards of cloth.
+
+  Sohari.....      a kind of coloured cloth.
+
+  Sungomazzi....      large glass or china beads of the size
+                              of marbles.
+
+  Toujiri.....      the name for a particular kind of cloth.
+
+  U    .....      a prefix to denote the country: thus
+                              U-jiji signifies the country of Jiji.
+
+  Uganga.....      medicine.
+
+  Wa-  .....     a prefix to denote persons: thus Wa-jiji
+                              would signify people of Jiji.
+
+  Washeni.....     a term of contempt applied to the natives.
+
+  Yambo.....     "How are you?"
+
+  Ziwa .....     a pool, or lake,
+
+  Ziwari.....     a pond.
+</pre>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  APPENDIX.
+
+  List of Camps from Bagamoyo to Ujiji and back to the Sea.
+</pre>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA.
+
+  From Bagamoyo to&mdash;     h.  m.
+  Shamba Gonera...  1  30
+  Kikoka.....   3  40
+  Rosako.....  5   0
+  Kingaru....  6   0
+  Imbiki.....  4  30
+  Msuwa.....  4  30
+
+  From Msuwa to&mdash;        h.  m.
+  Kisemo.....  4  30
+  Mussoudi....  4  20
+  Mikeseh....  7   0
+  Muhalleh....  6  45
+  Simbamwenni...  3   0
+
+  TO UGOGO.
+
+  USEGUHA,
+  Ungerengeri River to&mdash; h.  m
+  Simbo.....  2   0
+  Camp in plain...  4  10
+  Makata River...  2  30
+
+  USAGARA.
+  Camp west of Makata.   0   5
+  Camp in plain...  4  30
+  Camp  "   "...  2   0
+  Rehenneko....  3  15
+  Rehenneko to&mdash;         h.  m.
+  Camp on mountain..  3  30
+  Kiora.....  3  40
+  Camp on river...  4  50
+  Madete.....  2  30
+  Lake Ugombo....  3   0
+  Matamombo....  6   0
+  Mpwapwa.....  7   0
+  Kisokweh....  2   0
+  Chunyo.....  1  30
+</pre>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  FROM UGOGO TO UNYANYEMBE,
+
+  From Marenga Mkali to&mdash;h.  m.
+  Mvumi, Little Ugogo   12  30
+  Mvumi, Great Ugogo     4   0
+  Matamburu  "   ".   4   0
+  Bihawana   "   ".   4   0
+  Kididimo   "   ".   2   0
+  Pembera Pereh  ".  10   0
+  Mizanza    "   ".   5  30
+  Mukondoku  "   ".   6  30
+  Munieka    "   ".   5   0
+  Mabunguru Mtoni.
+         Uyanzi          8   0
+  Kiti, Uyanzi...   6  30
+  Msalalo....   6  30
+
+  From Msalalo to&mdash;      h.  m.
+  Welled Ngaraiso..   3  30
+  Kusuri.....   3  15
+  Mgongo Tembo...   3  30
+    "      "   Mtoni.   3  30
+  Nghwhalah Mtoni..   2  40
+  Madedita ...   2  30
+  Central Tura, Unyam-
+     wezi....   3   0
+  Kwala River...   7   0
+  Rubuga....   7  15
+  Kigwa ....   5   0
+  Shiza ....   7   0
+  Kwihara....   3   0
+</pre>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  UNYANYEMBE TO MRERA, UKONONG0.
+</pre>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  UNYAMWEZI.
+  From Kwihara to&mdash;      h.  m.
+  Mkwenkwe...    1  30
+  Inesuka ...    2   0
+  Kasegera...    3   0
+  Kigandu ...    2  45
+  Ugunda  ...    7   0
+  Benta   ...    3  15
+  Kikuru  ...    5   0
+  Ziwani  ...    4   0
+  Manyara ...    6  30
+
+  UKONONG0.
+  From Manyara to&mdash;      h.  m
+  Gombe River...    4  15
+  Ziwani....    5  20
+  Tongoni....    1  30
+  Camp ....    5  15
+  Marefu....    3   0
+  Utende....    7  15
+  Mtoni....    4   0
+  Mwaru....    5  15
+  Mrera.....    5  13
+</pre>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  FROM MRERA, UKONONGO TO UJIJI.
+</pre>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  UKONONGO,              h.  m.
+
+  From Mrera to Mtoni.  4  30
+  Misonghi....  4  30
+  Mtoni.....  6   0
+  Mpokwa in Utanda..  4  45
+  Mtoni  ....  3   0
+
+  UKAWENDI.              h.  m
+
+  Mtambu River...   4  30
+  Imrera....   4  20
+  Rusawa Mts....   2  30
+  Mtoni ....   4   0
+  Mtoni ....   5   0
+  Camp in Forest... 6   0
+  Camp in Forest... 5  30
+
+  UVINZA
+  Welled Nzogera... 2  30
+  Camp in Forest... 4  15
+  Siala [Kiala?] on the
+     Malagarazi... 2  45
+  Ihata Island in the
+     Malagarazi... 1  30
+  Katalambula... 1  45
+
+  UHHA
+  Kawanga in Uhha..   5  30
+  Lukomo....   1   0
+  Kahirigi....   4   0
+  Rusugi River...   5   0
+  Lake Musunya...   4   0
+  Rugufu River...   4  30
+  Sunuzzi  "...   3   0
+  Niamtaga Ukaranga.   9  30
+
+  UJIJI.
+  Port of Ujiji..   6   0
+</pre>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  INDEX
+
+  Abdul Kader, tailor of the Expedition; retirement of,
+  Abdullah bin Nasib,
+  Acacia Horrida,
+  African bridges,
+  Ali bin Salim,
+  Ambari,
+  Amer bin Sultan, type of an old Arab Sheikh,
+  Amram bin Mussood,
+  Ant-hills, remarkable,
+  Ants, white, destructiveness of,
+  Arabs, antipathy to, as slave-traders, in Africa,
+  Aranselar, chief butler of the Expedition,
+  Asmani, giant statue of;
+      his murderous deportment,
+
+  Baba (Father), term of courtesy in addressing elderly persons,
+  Bagamoyo, French Mission Station at; life at; climate of,
+  Bambarre, ivory depot,
+  Bana Mikuba, the "Big Master,'
+  Bangwe Island,
+  Bangweolo Lake,
+  Banyans, keen trading of;
+    their influence on African trade,
+  Baobab, fruit of the,
+  Baruti, one of Speke's Faithfuls,
+     death of,
+  Beads as currency in the Interior,
+  Bees, attack of, on the caravan,
+  Bemba, wooded hills of,
+  Bennet, Mr. James Gordon;
+     generous act of, in respect
+     to Dr. Livingstone's letters,
+  Benta forest,
+  Bihawana,
+  Bikari, cluster of villages,
+  "Bombay," or Mombay,
+  Bomboma's village,
+  Borassus flabelliformis, or Palmyra palm,
+  Brooks, Dr.,
+  Buffalo gnats,
+  &mdash;&mdash;herd,
+  Bunder Salaam, cook of the Expedition,
+  Burial ceremonies,
+  Burton, Capt., experience of Bunyans,
+  Bustard,
+
+  Cazembe, King; his Queen and her Amazons,
+  Chamati Hill,
+  Chambezi, drainage of,
+  Chambezi, Livingstone's difficulty about the,
+  "Charley's" lodging-house at Zanzibar, kindly spirit of its
+  landlord,
+  Chowpereh, Mgwana soldier,,
+  Christie, Dr., physician to Seyd Burghash
+  Chufwa fly,
+  Chuma, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+  Cloth as currency in the interior,
+  Comorines,
+  Corn-grinding women of Kisemo,
+  Crocodile, narrow escape of author from,
+
+  'Daily Telegraph,' representative of, at Aden,
+  Dawson, Lieut., visit from, conversation as to his resigning
+  command of the Search Expedition
+  Dhows,
+  Dilima Peaks,
+  Dogara, or whitebait,
+  Donkeys, equipment of; fine breed of, in Ubanarama,
+  "Dowa," medicine,
+
+  Earwigs, plague of, at Mpwapwa,
+  Elephantiasis common in Zanzibar,
+  Elephants, herd of; difficulty of shooting,
+  Emancipation Proclamation of Ahraham Lincoln,
+  Esau, Jemadar,
+
+  Farquhar, W. L.;
+     his death; account of,
+  Faulkner, Mr., incredible statements of,
+  Ferajji,
+  Fire-arms, what most suitable to the traveller
+  Fish-eagle,
+  Forest peach,
+  Forest scenery of Unyarnwezi,
+  Foreign Office, letters from,
+  Franklyn, Mr. Hales,
+  Fraser, Capt.,
+  Freiligrath's description of the lion's habitat,
+  French Mlissionaries, practical character of; Mission Station
+     at Bagamoyo,
+
+  Giraffes, difficulty of killing,
+  Glossina mortisans, or tsetse fly
+  Goma Pass;
+  Granville, Lord, letter from, conveying the thanks of Queen
+    Victoria and the announcement of the Royal present,
+  Goodhue, Mr., or "Bana Mkuba."
+
+  Haematite,
+  Half-castes, contemptible character
+  Halimah, Dr. Livingstone's cook,
+  Hassan, the Mseguhha,
+  Henn Lieut, his meeting with the author; resigns the leadership
+  Herembe, Cape,
+  Herodotus, his account of the Nile sources,
+  Hindis, Mohammedan, cheating character of,
+  Hippopotami
+  Honey-bird; habits of,
+  Honga, or tribute,
+  Hosmer, Dr.,
+  Hunters Paradise, the,
+  Hyaenas,
+
+  Ibrahim bin Rashid slain,
+  Ihata Island,
+  Imbiki,
+  Itage village,
+
+  Jako, employe of the Expedition,
+  Jesuit Mission at Pagamoyo,
+  Jiweh la Singa district,
+  Johari, dragoman,
+  Jumah,
+  Jungle of Msuwa, its horrors,
+
+  Kabogi, Cape,
+  Kabogo Mountain, singular phenomenon of,
+  Kadetamare, or Misonghi, village,.
+  Kahirigi, boma of,
+  Kaif-Halek or "How-do-ye-do," the letter carrier,
+  Kalulu, the boy-slave,
+  Kamolondo Lake,
+  Kanengi River,
+  Kaniyaga village
+  Kanjee,
+  Kanyamabengu River,
+  Kanyenyi,
+  Kayeh, a myth,
+  Kasera ridge,
+  Katanga, copper mines of,
+  Katangara Islands,
+  Kavimba,
+  Khamis bin Abdullah; his death,
+  Khamisi, desertion of; his narrow escape; flogged for
+          desertion; precis of character,
+  Khonze, remarkable globes of foliage at
+  Kiala, chief,
+  Kigoma Bay,
+  Kigonda, chief,
+  Kigwena River,
+  Kikoka village,
+  Kikuma River,
+  Kingari River,
+  &mdash;&mdash;    Valley,
+  Kingaru village
+  Kingwere, the canoe paddler
+  Kiora village,; Peak
+  Kirindo, chief,
+  Kirurumo village,
+  Kisabengo, chief, a minor Theodore,
+  Kisemo village; belles of,
+  Kisuka village,
+  Kisunwe River,
+  Kitanda or bedstead,
+  Kitii defile,
+  Kitunda Cape,
+  Kiwyeh, Sultan of; village,
+  Kiwrima Valley,
+  Kolquall or candelabra tree,
+  Kudu,
+  Kukumba Point,
+  Kulabi,
+  Kusuri or Konsuli,
+  Kwala Mtoni,
+  Kwikuru,
+
+  Lares and Penates of the Wazavira,
+  Leukole's account of Farquhar's death,
+  Liemba, Lake,
+  Lincoln, Abraham, lake named after, by Livingstone,
+  Lion and leopard, home of the; Freiligrath's description of,
+  Liuche, valley of the,
+  Livingstone, Dr., the author's first interview with, at Ujiji;
+       his anxiety for news; the low ebb of his resources;
+       his early rising; took the author for an emissary of the
+       French Government; his hard fare; his suffering and privations;
+       revival of his enthusiasm; his guileless character;
+       his physical appearance,; absurd report of his marriage,
+       his general character and careful observations; sensitiveness
+       of criticism; amiable traits of his character, and his Spartan
+       heroism; his high spirits, inexhaustible humour, and retentive
+       memory; sincerity of his religion; ability to withstand the
+       African climate, due to his temperate life; his determination
+       to complete his task, spite of all difficulties, completeness
+       of his discoveries; summary of his experiences; interview with
+       King Cazembe; difficulty as to the Chambezi; discovery of Lake
+       Liemba; investigation of the Luapula; intervention in behalf of
+       Mahomed bin Sali repaid by base ingratitude; exploration of Uguhha;
+       sufferings at Bambarre, discovery of the Lualaba, description of
+       the beauties of Moero scenery; admiration of Abraham Lincoln;
+       his belief that the Lualaba or Webb's River is the true Nile;
+       his admission that the Nile sources have not been found;
+       his opinion as to the account of Herodotus; thwarted by the
+       cowardice of his men; return to Ujiji; dishonesty of Sherif;
+       destitute condition of the Doctor, his complaint of the Zanzibar
+       people not sending him freemen; improvement of his health from
+       more generous diet, contemplated cruise on the Tanganika; start
+       from Ujiji; liability to dysentery; manner of dealing with demands
+       for honga; loss of stores, &amp;c., from Bombay's intoxication
+       his unwillingness to retaliate on the hostile natives, his
+       tenderness in sickness, disturbed in bed by his servant Susi in
+       a state of intoxication; his opinion that the Tanganika must have
+       an outlet; names the Kavunvweh islands the "New York Herald
+       Islets,"; his coolness at the hostility of the Wasansi, calms
+       them down by his gentle bearing and conversation; his resolve
+       to finish his task,; complaint of Dr. Kirk's sending only slaves;
+       resolves to accompany the author to Unyanyembe; his sufferings on
+       the road; at Mpokwa's village,; his value as a travelling companion;
+       stung by wild bees; his qualifications as a traveller,
+       peaceful recollections of his wife's grave, his relation of
+       incidents of the life of his son Robert; arrival at Ugundo,
+       letters from Dr. Kirk and home; welcome to Unyanyembe; in
+       comfortable quarters and in possession of stores; wreck of the
+       stores detained by Sayd bin Salim; in possession of four years'
+       store of supplies; his letter to Mr. Bennett, jun.; probable
+       results of his perseverance in African discovery; his last day
+       with the author; his intentions as to the future; the parting
+       farewell,
+  Livingstone, Mr. Oswell, introduction to; equipment of his proposed
+      expedition; determines to resign,
+  Livingstone, Robert Moffatt, incidents of his life,
+  Lizard, large,
+  Loeki or Lomani River,
+  Lualaba or "Webb's River" of Livingstone; thought by him to be the
+      true Nile,
+  Luapula River,
+  Lubilash River,
+  Ludha Damji,
+  Lufira River,
+  Luhanga Peak,
+  Lukomo village,
+  Luvumba Cape,
+
+  Mabruki, cruel treatment of;
+  Mabunguru Nullah,
+  Madedita,
+  Magala, Mutware of,
+  Maganga,
+  Magunda Mkali,
+  Mahommed bin Sali, his release by Livingstone and subsequent
+        ingratitude,
+  Maizun, Mons.,
+  Makata Valley; River; Plain,
+  Makumbi, chief,
+  Malagash, Inlet,
+  Malagarazi River,
+  Manyuema country, people of; the El Dorado of the Arabs; sought
+        as slaves,
+  Maganga,
+  Marefu,
+  Marenga Mkali,
+  Masangi,
+  Masika, or rainy season,
+  Matamombo,
+  Mazitu, marauding propensities of,
+  Mbawala, species of antelope,
+  Mbembu, or forest peach,
+  Mdaburu River,
+  Medicine for daubing warriors,
+  Mfuto, Eastern,
+  Mgongo Tembo, or "Elephant's Back,"
+  Mgwana,
+  Mikiseh,
+  Mionvu, Mutware of Kimenyi,
+  Mirambo; defeated at Mfuto,
+  Misonghi, deserted village,
+  Mizanza,
+  Mkuti River,
+  Mkuyu, gigantic sycamore,
+  Moero Lake; beauty of the scenery,
+  Mohammed bin Abdulla slain,
+  Mohammed bin Gharib,
+  Monkeys, troop of,
+  Morris, Hon. E. J.,
+  Mpokwa River,
+  Mponda, chief,
+  Mpwapwh, its fruitfulness;
+        Mountains,
+  Mrera, chief,
+  &mdash;-, warriors of,
+  Msuwa,
+  Mtemi, chief,
+  Mud-fish,
+  Mugere River,
+  Mugeyo village,
+  Mugihewa territory,
+  Mukamba, chief,
+  Mukondoku, chief,
+  Mukondokwa Range; Pass; River,
+  Mukungu,
+  Mukunguru, African intermittent fever,
+  Munieka,
+  Muniyi Usagara,
+  Murembwe Cape; Point,
+  Musa, chief of the Johanna men,
+  Muscat Arabs of Zanzibar,
+  Mussoudi, the Diwan's account of an extraordinary flood,
+  Musunya Lake,
+  Muzimu Island,
+  Mvumi village,
+  Mwaru,
+  Myombo tree,
+  Mussoud bin Abdhullah,
+  Mussoudi; beautiful prospect at,
+
+  "Nazi-Moya" at Zanzibar,
+  Negroes of Zanzibar; character of,
+  New, Rev. Charles, introduction to,
+  "New York Herald" Islets,
+  Ngaraiso village,
+  Nghwhalah River,
+  Nguru Peak,
+  Niamtaga,
+  Niasanga village,
+  Niongo,
+  Nondo, Spoke's runaway,
+  Nyabigma Island,
+  Nyambwa,
+  Nzoe, antelope of Speke,
+
+  "Omar," Mr. Stanley's watchdog; death of,
+
+  Pallah buck,
+  Pembera Pereh, Sultan,
+  Perpusilla, the,
+  Piaggia, the Italian traveller,
+  Pisolitic limestone,
+  Pottery, native, of the Wazavira,
+  Price, Simon, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+
+  Queen Victoria, letter conveying the thanks of Her Majesty and
+  the announcement of the Royal present,
+
+  Rehenneko village,
+  Rosako village,
+  Rua country; people,
+  Rubeho Slopes; Peak,
+  Rubuga,
+  Rudewa River,
+  Rugufu Lake,
+  Ruhinga, chief,
+  Rusizi River; problem of; delta of,
+
+  Said bin Majid,
+  Salim bin Rashid,
+  Sultana of Simbamwenni,
+  Sami-sami, red beads,
+  Sayf, son of Ali, slain,
+  Sayd bin Salim's house,
+  Selim, interpreter,
+  &mdash;&mdash;, the Arab boy,
+  Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar,
+  Sitting on pombe,
+  Sentakeyi, Cape,
+  Shaw, J. W.; leaves the expedition,
+  Shamba Gonera, or, "Gonera's Field," good disposition of the
+          Indian widow towards the whites; appearance of the place,
+          trade, &amp;c.,
+  Sheikh Sayd bin Selim,
+  &mdash;&mdash;-  Hamed,
+  &mdash;&mdash;-  Hassid,
+  &mdash;&mdash;-  Khamis bin Abdullah,
+  &mdash;&mdash;-  bin Nasib,
+  &mdash;&mdash;-  Sulton bin Ali,
+  &mdash;&mdash;-  Thani,
+  Sherif, Dr. Livingstone's servant; dishonesty of,
+  Shiza,
+  Sigunga,
+  Simbamwenni; desolation of by flood,
+  &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;, Sultana of,
+  Simba, ruler of Kasera,
+  Simbo,
+  Simbo, Khambi,
+  Singwe, a plum-like fruit,
+  Slave-gang, chained,
+  Sofi beads,
+  Somalis;
+  Soor Hadji Palloo,
+  Soud, the Arab,
+  &mdash;&mdash;, son of Sayd bin Majid,
+  &mdash;&mdash;, bin Sayd, his attack on Wilyankura; his death,
+  Speke, Capt., his "Faithfuls"; treatment of "Bombay" by;
+         error of, as to altitude of Tanganika,
+  Stanley, Mr., start from Bombay; landing at Zanzibar; hospitable
+        reception by Capt. Webb; impressions of the city;
+        organization of the Expedition; visit to the Sultan; departure
+        from Zanzibar; landing at Bagamoyo; troublesome experiences;
+        visit to the "Livingstone caravan"; preparations for departure
+        into the interior, difficulties with employes; chase after a
+        thief, despatch of four caravans; departure of the fifth caravan,
+        led by himself; members composing it and outfit; the start,
+        first camp; Shamba Gonera; crossing the Kingani; hippopotami
+        shooting; Kikoka village; halt at Rosako; "Omar" watchdog,
+        missing; formidable number of insects, the tsetse-fly; game
+        hunting; difficulty of penetrating an African jungle; camp at
+        Kingaru; the grey Arab horse, and offence given by its interment;
+        interview with the king of Kingaru; loss of the re maiming horse
+        from cancer; desertion and sickness; appearance of Maganga's
+        caravan march to Imbiki; reach Msuwa, perils of the jungle,
+        astonishment of the chief; chained slave-gang; halt at
+        Kisemo; belle of; narrow escape of Khamisi; flogged for
+        desertion; reach Mussoudi; beautiful prospect; cross the
+        Ungerengeri start for Mikeseh; Ulagalla and Muhalleh;
+        overtake Maganga's caravan; meet with Selim bin Rashid,
+        news of Livingstone; pass town of Simbamwenni; its
+        fortifications; curiosity of the inhabitants; two
+        days' halt and overhaul of the luggage, attack of ague;
+        visit of ambassadors of the Sultana of Simbamwenni;
+        wretched encampment on the Ungerengeri; difficulty of
+        crossing the river; Makata Valley; loss of Bombay's
+        equipage,; difficulties of the Makata Valley; escape
+        and capture of Kingaru; emerge from the swamp Makata,
+        attack of dysentery, halt at Reheneko; ascent of the
+        Usagara Mountains; Mukondokwa Valley and River; Kiora;
+        camp at, illness of Farquhar; ford of the Mukondokwa
+        River; Madete, Lake of Ugombe; departure from Ugombo;
+        camp at Matamombo, death of of the dog "Omar"; Sheikh
+        Thani in clover at Mpwapwa, a good breakfast and
+        dinner, Farquhar left to be nursed; twelve pagazis
+        engaged, abundance of earwigs and white ants; Chunyo,
+        badness of the water; Marenga Mkali waterless district;
+        attack of fever; Ugogo; frantic conduct of the population;
+        West Mvumi; the Sultan's exorbitant demand of honda;
+        Matamburu, reasonableness of the Sultan of; Bihiwana;
+        attack of intermittent fever; Kididimo, bleak aspect
+        and bad water; Nyambwa, demonstrativeness of the people;
+        Mizanza; benefit from quinine; visit from the Sultan;
+        Little Mukondoku; Mukondoku Proper; commotion and
+        cowardice; uproar in the camp; debate as to route;
+        threatened mutiny; Munieka; Mabunguru Nullah;
+        Unyambogi; Kiti, Msalalo; Ngaraiso, Kirurumo,
+        greeting from the villagers; interview with Sultan
+        bin Mahommed; halt at Kusuri, and Mgongo Tembo;
+        Nghwhalah Mtoni, abundance of sweet, water;
+        Madedita, tsete-fly troublesome; reach Unyamwezi
+        territory at Eastern Tura, cultivated region;
+        Nondo, Speke's runaway; Central Tura, attempted night
+        robbery, a thief shot dead; pass  Western Tura; Kwala
+        Mtoni, mud-fish; illness of the tailor, Abdul Kader,
+        he wishes to give up his post; Rubuga, desolation of,
+        since Burton's visit; meeting with Amer bin Sultan,
+        Kigwa, wasted condition of; Shiza, pastoral aspect of,
+        visit from the Sultan; rejoicings in camp on reaching
+        Unyanyembe territory; life in Unyanyembe; breakfast and
+        gossip with Sayd bin Salim; Kazeh, a myth; leave Kwikuru;
+        in comfortable quarters; visit from the Tabora Arab magnates;
+        Tabora, chief Arab settlement in central Africa; attend a
+        council of war, feast at the close of the council; return
+        to Kwihara; the Livingstone caravan's halt of 100 days;
+        attack of fever; preparations for the march; warlike
+        demonstration; Eastern Mfuto, illness of Shaw,
+        personnel of the army; Umanda, medicine daubing;
+        war harangue; Zimbizo, attack on the village; fate
+        of Soud bin Sayd and his Arabs; retreat and stormy
+        councils of war; further retreat of the Arabs to Tabora,
+        serious position of the Expedition; intelligence
+        of Livingstone; news of death of Farquhar; illness
+        of Shaw, attack of Mirambo on Tabora; Khamis bin
+        Abdullah, &amp;c., slain; preparations for Mirambo's threatened
+        attack on Kwihara; visit to Sheikh bin Nassib; retreat
+        of Mirambo, determination to lead a flying caravan
+        to Ujiji; apathy of Shaw, visit to Thani bin Abdullah,
+        arrival of letters; death of Baruti, evil reports by
+        the Arabs; present of a boy-slave; defeat of Mirambo at
+        Mfuto; nursing experiences: farewell feast at Unyanyembe;
+        march to Ujiji commenced by southern route; list of "braves"
+        of the Expedition; Bombay's tender passion; the start;
+        Shaw shows the white feather; Kinyamwezi village, attack
+        of fever; arrest of runaways, threat of slave-chain;
+        Inesuka, further desertions, punishment, withdrawal of
+        Abdul Kader, the tailor; sickness in camp, adverse
+        appearances; Kasegara, rejoicings at; Kigandu, Shaw's
+        by-play; his withdrawal; beauty of Unyamwezi forest
+        scenery; Ugunda; Benta; Kikuru, the mukunguru or fever;
+        camp at Ziwani; gigantic sycamore; Manyara, cultivated
+        region; difficulty of buying provisions; visit of Mtemi;
+        his astonishment at the author's medicine-chest; Gombe
+        River, its beautiful neighbourhood; narrow escape from a
+        crocodile, suspicious-looking natives; a peaceful camp-scene;
+        symptoms of revolt at starting onwards; murderous aspect of
+        Asmani and Mabruki; the march- resumed; sketch of the principal
+        men of the Expedition; Ziwani (pool), waterless condition of;
+        Tongoni, abundance of honey-birds; Marefu, rumours of war in
+        our front; march through a forest abounding with peach-trees;
+        Utende village; Mwaru, supposed report of Livingstone, Mrera's
+        district, wild elephants; Selim falls ill, start from Mrera
+        north-westward; confidence restored in the camp, remarkable
+        ant-hills; camp in the jungle; embassy from Simba; Uzavira,
+        ruined neighbourhood of; Misonghi; Mpokwa River, deserted
+        village near; Mtambu stream, its beauty; attack by a leopard;
+        shot at a wild boar; proximity of lions; Itaga village,
+        beginning of troubles, shortness of provisions, "Welled
+        Nzogera's" village, abundant supplies; crossing a marsh;
+        reach the Malagarazi; heavy exaction of the chief Kiala;
+        island of Ihata, fresh demands for ferriage; donkey seized
+        by crocodile; Uvinza, news of Livingstone, departure from
+        the Malagarazi; country of Uhha; halt at Kawanga; halt on
+        the Pombwe stream, interview with Mionvu; exorbitant demand
+        of honga; cross the Kanengi River; more claims of honga;
+        departure by stealth; Kanengi River; cross the Rusugi;
+        Lake Musunya, Rugufu River, Kabogo Mountain, singular
+        phenomenon of; Sunuzzi River; enter Ukaranga; beauty
+        of the landscape; Mkute River, Niamtaga, alarm of the
+        people; first view of the Tanganika,  Port of Ujiji in
+        view; salute announcing the approach of the caravan; meeting
+        with Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone; excitement of
+        the inhabitants; appearance of the Doctor; the introduction;
+        conversation; the over-due letter-bag, 365 days from Zanzibar;
+        budget of news; intercourse with Livingstone; suggestions
+        as to his future course; start with Livingstone for cruise
+        on the Tanganika; pass Bangwe Island; wooded hills of Bemba;
+        camp at Niasanga; Nyabigma Island; Mukungu; loss of valuables
+        from Bombay's intoxication; hostile demonstrations of the Bikari
+        people; bivouac on the shore disturbed by natives; round
+        Cape Sentakeyi, and sleep at Mugeyo; Magala, hospitality of
+        the people, visit of the Mutware of; rumours of wars;
+        Kisiku, native report as to the Rusizi River; Mugere, delta
+        of the; visit Mukamba, attacked by fever and experience
+        Livingstone's tenderness; Susi's drunken fit; Mugihewa
+        territory on the delta of the Rusizi; visit of the chief
+        Ruhinga, his geographical information; exploration
+        of the Rusizi debouchure: Kukubma Point, enchanting scenery
+        near; halt at Bemba, superstition of the Wajiji; 'New York
+        Herald Islets,' so named by Livingstone; Cape Luvumba
+        hostile aspect of the Wasansi, return to Ujiji, domestic
+        and foreign news; at home with Livingstone; preparations
+        for march to Unyanyembe; attack of fever; Christmas-day
+        at Ujiji; the departure; meet with Mohammed bin Gharib;
+        Sirgunga, beautiful aspect of; sport at Urimba; homeward bound;
+        an elephant herd; Ukawendi, luxuriance of its vegetation;
+        painful march to Imrera; a giraffe shot; severe attack of
+        fever, the Doctor's prescription; the caravan attacked by
+        bees; Mrera, meeting with caravan sent by Sayd bin Habid,
+        exchange of news, encounter a lion; Ugunda, the deserter
+        Hamdallah retaken; receipt of letters and newspapers;
+        welcome to Unyanyembe; stores found tampered with;
+        a second Christmas celebration, four years' stores of
+       supplies turned over to the Doctor, commission to enlist
+       at Zanzibar fifty freemen as his carriers; farewell dance
+       of natives; choragic adieu of the Wanyamwezi; last night
+       with Livingstone; the last walk in his company, the farewell;
+       a letter from the Doctor; Ngaraiso, hostility of the Wakimbu,
+       enter Ugogo; warlike demonstrations, march of warriors
+       arrayed for the fight;  Khonze, its gigantic tree-foliage;
+       determined mode of dealing with the chief successfull;
+       Kanyenyi, cordial reception by the Msagira of; Mapanga,
+       hostile demonstration; asked to act as rain-maker; Kulabi,
+       suffer from a "peppo"; Marenga Mkali; Mpwapwa, death of
+       Farquhar; Mukondokwa valley, experience of the Masika;
+       Makata plain, battling with the floods; Mvumi village,
+       fighting with mosquitoes; the Doctor's despatches in danger;
+       a perilous ford; ten days' camp at Rehenneko, difficulties
+       of the march to the Makata River; arrive at Simbo, cross the
+       Unkerengere, and reach Simbamwenni, its desolated aspect;
+       Ulagalla, extraordinary devastation by flood; Msuwa, horrors
+       of its jungle; Kingaru Hera, news of the Zanzibar storm;
+       Rosako, welcome consignment from the American Consul;
+       ill-natured criticisms, information as to the "Livingstone
+       Search and Relief Expedition"; Ringweare's ferry, a watery waste,
+       four miles broad; welcome to Bagamoyo; meeting with Lieut. Henn;
+       introduction to Mr. Oswell Livingstone; the march ended;
+       welcome at Zanzibar, the American Consul and Rev. C. New;
+       congratulation of Lieut. Dawson; discussion as to his resignation;
+       visit from Dr. Kirk and Bishop Tozer, change in the  author's
+       appearance on his return; preparations for Mr. O. Livingstone's
+       Expedition, his resignation, selection of an Arab leader,
+       farewell to old travelling companions; departure from
+       Zanzibar in the 'Africa'; reach Seychelles, a month's delay
+       at Mahe, agreeable intercourse; reach England via Aden and
+       Marseilles.
+  Sultan bin Mohammed,
+  Sultan of Zanzibar, Mr. Stanley's interview with,
+  Sunuzzi stream,
+  Susi, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+  Swaruru, Sultan,
+  Sycamore, gigantic,
+
+  Tabora,
+  Tagamoyo, massacre of the Wamanyuema by,
+  Tanganika Lake, first visit to; cruise on, with Dr. Livingstone,
+  Tarya Topan, integrity of
+  Thani bin Abdullah,,
+  Tongoni, deserted clearing,
+  Tozer, Bp., his residence at Zanzibar; his congratulations at
+             the author's success,
+  Trade, mode of conducting, in Africa,
+  Tsetse fly,
+  Tura, Eastern; Central,;
+            Western or Tura Perro;
+
+  Udoe, cones of,
+  "Uganga," or charm,
+  Ugombo, Lake; Peak, Plain,
+  Ugunda village,
+  Uhha, king of,
+  Ujiji, port of,
+  Ukaranga territory, its beautiful aspect,
+  Ukawendi country, scenery of,
+  Ulagalla district,
+  Ulimengo, absconding slave,
+  Unamapokera, friendliness of,
+  Ungerengeri River; Valley,
+  Urundi Mountains,
+  Unyamwezi forest scenery, beauty of; territory,
+  Unyambogi,
+  Urimba, camp at,
+  Usagara Mountains,
+  Utende village,
+  Uwelasia River,
+  Uyanzi, Magunda Mkali; or "Hot Field,"
+  Uyoweh, Mirambo of,
+  Uzavira, village in,
+
+  Waganga, or medicine men; filthy war-potion, concocted by,
+  Wagogo tribe, villages of,
+  Wagtails regarded as birds of good omen,
+  Waguhha tribe,
+  Wagunda tribe,
+  Wahumba tribe,
+  Wajiji tribe,
+  Wakimbu of Tura, rascality of,
+  &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;- tribe; villages of,
+  Wakonongo,
+  Wamanyuema, fondness of, for marketing,
+  Wangwana village,
+  &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;- tribe, gormandizing of the,
+  Wanyamwezi tribe, their superstitious aversion to antelope meat,
+  War, council of, at Tabora,
+  Warfare, tame mode of conducting,
+  Wa-Ruga-Ruga,
+  Wasawahili tribe,
+  Wasansi tribe,
+  Waseguhha tribe,
+  Washenshi tribe,
+  Wasungu tribe,
+  Wavinza tribe, greed of
+  Wavira tribe,
+  Webb, Capt. F. R., U.S. Consul, his hospitality and courtesy,
+  &mdash;&mdash;, Mr. of Newstead Abbey, river named after him,
+  &mdash;&mdash;, Mrs.,
+  Wagogo, cool impudence of the,
+  Wilderness, African, more favourable to the traveller than
+        the populated country,
+  Wild-boar shooting,
+  Wilyankuru, attack on,
+  Wire, high valve of, in the interior,
+
+  Zanzibar city view of, from the bay, harbor
+           "Charley's" lodging house,; character of the street
+           and population, trade, "M'nazi Moya"; house of Bishop
+           Tozer, mart of the interior, mode of commerce unchanged
+           for ages; population; filth and unhealthiness of;
+           inertness induced by climate of; Palace of the Sultan,
+  &mdash;&mdash;- Island; its aspect from the sea,
+  Zassi River and village,
+  Zebra,
+  Zimbizo, attack on the village,
+  Zimmerman on the benefit of an unencumbered mind,
+  Ziwo, or pond,
+  Ziwani (pool),
+  Zogga, palm toddy,
+</pre>
+    <div style="height: 6em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+
+
+
+
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of How I Found Livingstone, by Henry M. Stanley
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: How I Found Livingstone
+
+Author: Henry M. Stanley
+
+Release Date: February, 2004 [EBook #5157]
+Last Updated: August 18, 2012
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Geoffrey Cowling
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE
+
+Travels, Adventures and Discoveries in Central Africa including four
+months residence with Dr. Livingstone
+
+By Sir Henry M. Stanley, G.C.B.
+
+Abridged
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.-- INTRODUCTORY. MY INSTRUCTIONS TO FIND AND RELIEVE
+LIVINGSTONE.
+
+
+On the sixteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord one thousand
+eight hundred and sixty-nine, I was in Madrid, fresh from the carnage
+at Valencia. At 10 A.M. Jacopo, at No.-- Calle de la Cruz, handed me a
+telegram: It read, "Come to Paris on important business." The telegram
+was from Mr. James Gordon Bennett, jun., the young manager of the 'New
+York Herald.'
+
+Down came my pictures from the walls of my apartments on the second
+floor; into my trunks went my books and souvenirs, my clothes were
+hastily collected, some half washed, some from the clothes-line half
+dry, and after a couple of hours of hasty hard work my portmanteaus were
+strapped up and labelled "Paris."
+
+At 3 P.M. I was on my way, and being obliged to stop at Bayonne a
+few hours, did not arrive at Paris until the following night. I went
+straight to the 'Grand Hotel,' and knocked at the door of Mr. Bennett's
+room.
+
+"Come in," I heard a voice say. Entering, I found Mr. Bennett in bed.
+"Who are you?" he asked.
+
+"My name is Stanley," I answered.
+
+"Ah, yes! sit down; I have important business on hand for you."
+
+After throwing over his shoulders his robe-de-chambre Mr. Bennett asked,
+"Where do you think Livingstone is?"
+
+"I really do not know, sir."
+
+"Do you think he is alive?"
+
+"He may be, and he may not be," I answered.
+
+"Well, I think he is alive, and that he can be found, and I am going to
+send you to find him."
+
+"What!" said I, "do you really think I can find Dr Livingstone? Do you
+mean me to go to Central Africa?"
+
+"Yes; I mean that you shall go, and find him wherever you may hear that
+he is, and to get what news you can of him, and perhaps"--delivering
+himself thoughtfully and deliberately--"the old man may be in
+want:--take enough with you to help him should he require it. Of
+course you will act according to your own plans, and do what you think
+best--BUT FIND LIVINGSTONE!"
+
+Said I, wondering at the cool order of sending one to Central Africa to
+search for a man whom I, in common with almost all other men, believed
+to be dead, "Have you considered seriously the great expense you are
+likely, to incur on account of this little journey?"
+
+"What will it cost?" he asked abruptly.
+
+"Burton and Speke's journey to Central Africa cost between L3,000 and
+L5,000, and I fear it cannot be done under L2,500."
+
+"Well, I will tell you what you will do. Draw a thousand pounds now; and
+when you have gone through that, draw another thousand, and when that
+is spent, draw another thousand, and when you have finished that, draw
+another thousand, and so on; but, FIND LIVINGSTONE."
+
+Surprised but not confused at the order--for I knew that Mr. Bennett
+when once he had made up his mind was not easily drawn aside from his
+purpose--I yet thought, seeing it was such a gigantic scheme, that he
+had not quite considered in his own mind the pros and cons of the case;
+I said, "I have heard that should your father die you would sell the
+'Herald' and retire from business."
+
+"Whoever told you that is wrong, for there is not, money enough in New
+York city to buy the 'New York Herald.' My father has made it a
+great paper, but I mean to make it greater. I mean that it shall be a
+newspaper in the true sense of the word. I mean that it shall publish
+whatever news will be interesting to the world at no matter what cost."
+
+"After that," said I, "I have nothing more to say. Do you mean me to go
+straight on to Africa to search for Dr. Livingstone?"
+
+"No! I wish you to go to the inauguration of the Suez Canal first,
+and then proceed up the Nile. I hear Baker is about starting for Upper
+Egypt. Find out what you can about his expedition, and as you go up
+describe as well as possible whatever is interesting for tourists; and
+then write up a guide--a practical one--for Lower Egypt; tell us about
+whatever is worth seeing and how to see it.
+
+"Then you might as well go to Jerusalem; I hear Captain Warren is making
+some interesting discoveries there. Then visit Constantinople, and find
+out about that trouble between the Khedive and the Sultan.
+
+"Then--let me see--you might as well visit the Crimea and those old
+battle-grounds, Then go across the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea; I hear
+there is a Russian expedition bound for Khiva. From thence you may get
+through Persia to India; you could write an interesting letter from
+Persepolis.
+
+"Bagdad will be close on your way to India; suppose you go there, and
+write up something about the Euphrates Valley Railway. Then, when you
+have come to India, you can go after Livingstone. Probably you will hear
+by that time that Livingstone is on his way to Zanzibar; but if not,
+go into the interior and find him. If alive, get what news of his
+discoveries you can; and if you find he is dead, bring all possible
+proofs of his being dead. That is all. Good-night, and God be with you."
+
+"Good-night, Sir," I said, "what it is in the power of human nature to
+do I will do; and on such an errand as I go upon, God will be with me."
+
+I lodged with young Edward King, who is making such a name in New
+England. He was just the man who would have delighted to tell the
+journal he was engaged upon what young Mr. Bennett was doing, and what
+errand I was bound upon.
+
+I should have liked to exchange opinions with him upon the probable
+results of my journey, but I dared not do so. Though oppressed with the
+great task before me, I had to appear as if only going to be present at
+the Suez Canal. Young King followed me to the express train bound
+for Marseilles, and at the station we parted: he to go and read the
+newspapers at Bowles' Reading-room--I to Central Africa and--who knows?
+
+There is no need to recapitulate what I did before going to Central
+Africa.
+
+I went up the Nile and saw Mr. Higginbotham, chief engineer in Baker's
+Expedition, at Philae, and was the means of preventing a duel between
+him and a mad young Frenchman, who wanted to fight Mr. Higginbotham with
+pistols, because that gentleman resented the idea of being taken for an
+Egyptian, through wearing a fez cap. I had a talk with Capt. Warren at
+Jerusalem, and descended one of the pits with a sergeant of engineers
+to see the marks of the Tyrian workmen on the foundation-stones of the
+Temple of Solomon. I visited the mosques of Stamboul with the Minister
+Resident of the United States, and the American Consul-General. I
+travelled over the Crimean battle-grounds with Kinglake's glorious books
+for reference in my hand. I dined with the widow of General Liprandi
+at Odessa. I saw the Arabian traveller Palgrave at Trebizond, and Baron
+Nicolay, the Civil Governor of the Caucasus, at Tiflis. I lived with the
+Russian Ambassador while at Teheran, and wherever I went through
+Persia I received the most hospitable welcome from the gentlemen of
+the Indo-European Telegraph Company; and following the examples of many
+illustrious men, I wrote my name upon one of the Persepolitan monuments.
+In the month of August, 1870, I arrived in India.
+
+On the 12th of October I sailed on the barque 'Polly' from Bombay
+to Mauritius. As the 'Polly' was a slow sailer, the passage lasted
+thirty-seven days. On board this barque was a William Lawrence
+Farquhar--hailing from Leith, Scotland--in the capacity of first-mate.
+He was an excellent navigator, and thinking he might be useful to me,
+I employed him; his pay to begin from the date we should leave Zanzibar
+for Bagamoyo. As there was no opportunity of getting, to Zanzibar
+direct, I took ship to Seychelles. Three or four days after arriving
+at Mahe, one of the Seychelles group, I was fortunate enough to get
+a passage for myself, William Lawrence Farquhar, and an Arab boy from
+Jerusalem, who was to act as interpreter--on board an American whaling
+vessel, bound for Zanzibar; at which port we arrived on the 6th of
+January, 1871.
+
+I have skimmed over my travels thus far, because these do not concern
+the reader. They led over many lands, but this book is only a narrative
+of my search after Livingstone, the great African traveller. It is
+an Icarian flight of journalism, I confess; some even have called it
+Quixotic; but this is a word I can now refute, as will be seen before
+the reader arrives at the "Finis."
+
+I have used the word "soldiers" in this book. The armed escort a
+traveller engages to accompany him into East Africa is composed of free
+black men, natives of Zanzibar, or freed slaves from the interior,
+who call themselves "askari," an Indian name which, translated, means
+"soldiers." They are armed and equipped like soldiers, though they
+engage themselves also as servants; but it would be more pretentious in
+me to call them servants, than to use the word "soldiers;" and as I
+have been more in the habit of calling them soldiers than "my
+watuma"--servants--this habit has proved too much to be overcome. I have
+therefore allowed the word "soldiers" to appear, accompanied, however,
+with this apology.
+
+But it must be remembered that I am writing a narrative of my own
+adventures and travels, and that until I meet Livingstone, I presume
+the greatest interest is attached to myself, my marches, my troubles,
+my thoughts, and my impressions. Yet though I may sometimes write, "my
+expedition," or "my caravan," it by no means follows that I arrogate to
+myself this right. For it must be distinctly understood that it is the
+"'New York Herald' Expedition," and that I am only charged with its
+command by Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the 'New York
+Herald,' as a salaried employ of that gentleman.
+
+One thing more; I have adopted the narrative form of relating the story
+of the search, on account of the greater interest it appears to possess
+over the diary form, and I think that in this manner I avoid the
+great fault of repetition for which some travellers have been severely
+criticised.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II. -- ZANZIBAR.
+
+On the morning of the 6th January, 1871, we were sailing through the
+channel that separates the fruitful island of Zanzibar from Africa. The
+high lands of the continent loomed like a lengthening shadow in the grey
+of dawn. The island lay on our left, distant but a mile, coming out
+of its shroud of foggy folds bit by bit as the day advanced, until it
+finally rose clearly into view, as fair in appearance as the fairest of
+the gems of creation. It appeared low, but not flat; there were gentle
+elevations cropping hither and yon above the languid but graceful tops
+of the cocoa-trees that lined the margin of the island, and there were
+depressions visible at agreeable intervals, to indicate where a cool
+gloom might be found by those who sought relief from a hot sun. With
+the exception of the thin line of sand, over which the sap-green water
+rolled itself with a constant murmur and moan, the island seemed buried
+under one deep stratum of verdure.
+
+The noble bosom of the strait bore several dhows speeding in and out of
+the bay of Zanzibar with bellying sails. Towards the south, above the
+sea line of the horizon, there appeared the naked masts of several
+large ships, and to the east of these a dense mass of white, flat-topped
+houses. This was Zanzibar, the capital of the island;--which soon
+resolved itself into a pretty large and compact city, with all the
+characteristics of Arab architecture. Above some of the largest houses
+lining the bay front of the city streamed the blood-red banner of the
+Sultan, Seyd Burghash, and the flags of the American, English, North
+German Confederation, and French Consulates. In the harbor were thirteen
+large ships, four Zanzibar men-of-war, one English man-of-war--the
+'Nymphe,' two American, one French, one Portuguese, two English, and
+two German merchantmen, besides numerous dhows hailing from Johanna
+and Mayotte of the Comoro Islands, dhows from Muscat and Cutch--traders
+between India, the Persian Gulf, and Zanzibar.
+
+It was with the spirit of true hospitality and courtesy that Capt.
+Francis R. Webb, United States Consul, (formerly of the United States
+Navy), received me. Had this gentleman not rendered me such needful
+service, I must have condescended to take board and lodging at a house
+known as "Charley's," called after the proprietor, a Frenchman, who has
+won considerable local notoriety for harboring penniless itinerants, and
+manifesting a kindly spirit always, though hidden under such a rugged
+front; or I should have been obliged to pitch my double-clothed American
+drill tent on the sandbeach of this tropical island, which was by no
+means a desirable thing.
+
+But Capt. Webb's opportune proposal to make his commodious and
+comfortable house my own; to enjoy myself, with the request that I would
+call for whatever I might require, obviated all unpleasant alternatives.
+
+One day's life at Zanzibar made me thoroughly conscious of my ignorance
+respecting African people and things in general. I imagined I had read
+Burton and Speke through, fairly well, and that consequently I had
+penetrated the meaning, the full importance and grandeur, of the work I
+was about to be engaged upon. But my estimates, for instance, based upon
+book information, were simply ridiculous, fanciful images of African
+attractions were soon dissipated, anticipated pleasures vanished, and
+all crude ideas began to resolve themselves into shape.
+
+I strolled through the city. My general impressions are of crooked,
+narrow lanes, white-washed houses, mortar-plastered streets, in the
+clean quarter;--of seeing alcoves on each side, with deep recesses,
+with a fore-ground of red-turbaned Banyans, and a back-ground of flimsy
+cottons, prints, calicoes, domestics and what not; or of floors crowded
+with ivory tusks; or of dark corners with a pile of unginned and loose
+cotton; or of stores of crockery, nails, cheap Brummagem ware, tools,
+&c., in what I call the Banyan quarter;--of streets smelling very
+strong--in fact, exceedingly, malodorous, with steaming yellow and
+black bodies, and woolly heads, sitting at the doors of miserable huts,
+chatting, laughing, bargaining, scolding, with a compound smell of
+hides, tar, filth, and vegetable refuse, in the negro quarter;--of
+streets lined with tall, solid-looking houses, flat roofed, of great
+carved doors with large brass knockers, with baabs sitting cross-legged
+watching the dark entrance to their masters' houses; of a shallow
+sea-inlet, with some dhows, canoes, boats, an odd steam-tub or two,
+leaning over on their sides in a sea of mud which the tide has just left
+behind it; of a place called "M'nazi-Moya," "One Cocoa-tree," whither
+Europeans wend on evenings with most languid steps, to inhale the sweet
+air that glides over the sea, while the day is dying and the red sun is
+sinking westward; of a few graves of dead sailors, who paid the forfeit
+of their lives upon arrival in this land; of a tall house wherein lives
+Dr. Tozer, "Missionary Bishop of Central Africa," and his school of
+little Africans; and of many other things, which got together into such
+a tangle, that I had to go to sleep, lest I should never be able to
+separate the moving images, the Arab from the African; the African from
+the Banyan; the Banyan from the Hindi; the Hindi from the European, &c.
+
+Zanzibar is the Bagdad, the Ispahan, the Stamboul, if you like, of East
+Africa. It is the great mart which invites the ivory traders from the
+African interior. To this market come the gum-copal, the hides, the
+orchilla weed, the timber, and the black slaves from Africa. Bagdad had
+great silk bazaars, Zanzibar has her ivory bazaars; Bagdad once traded
+in jewels, Zanzibar trades in gum-copal; Stamboul imported Circassian
+and Georgian slaves; Zanzibar imports black beauties from Uhiyow,
+Ugindo, Ugogo, Unyamwezi and Galla.
+
+The same mode of commerce obtains here as in all Mohammedan
+countries--nay, the mode was in vogue long before Moses was born. The
+Arab never changes. He brought the custom of his forefathers with him
+when he came to live on this island. He is as much of an Arab here as
+at Muscat or Bagdad; wherever he goes to live he carries with him his
+harem, his religion, his long robe, his shirt, his slippers, and his
+dagger. If he penetrates Africa, not all the ridicule of the negroes can
+make him change his modes of life. Yet the land has not become Oriental;
+the Arab has not been able to change the atmosphere. The land is
+semi-African in aspect; the city is but semi-Arabian.
+
+To a new-comer into Africa, the Muscat Arabs of Zanzibar are studies.
+There is a certain empressement about them which we must admire. They
+are mostly all travellers. There are but few of them who have not been
+in many dangerous positions, as they penetrated Central Africa in search
+of the precious ivory; and their various experiences have given
+their features a certain unmistakable air of-self-reliance, or of
+self-sufficiency; there is a calm, resolute, defiant, independent air
+about them, which wins unconsciously one's respect. The stories that
+some of these men could tell, I have often thought, would fill many a
+book of thrilling adventures.
+
+For the half-castes I have great contempt. They are neither black nor
+white, neither good nor bad, neither to be admired nor hated. They are
+all things, at all times; they are always fawning on the great Arabs,
+and always cruel to those unfortunates brought under their yoke. If I
+saw a miserable, half-starved negro, I was always sure to be told
+he belonged to a half-caste. Cringing and hypocritical, cowardly and
+debased, treacherous and mean, I have always found him. He seems to be
+for ever ready to fall down and worship a rich Arab, but is relentless
+to a poor black slave. When he swears most, you may be sure he lies
+most, and yet this is the breed which is multiplied most at Zanzibar.
+
+The Banyan is a born trader, the beau-ideal of a sharp money-making man.
+Money flows to his pockets as naturally as water down a steep. No pang
+of conscience will prevent him from cheating his fellow man. He excels
+a Jew, and his only rival in a market is a Parsee; an Arab is a babe to
+him. It is worth money to see him labor with all his energy, soul and
+body, to get advantage by the smallest fraction of a coin over a native.
+Possibly the native has a tusk, and it may weigh a couple of frasilahs,
+but, though the scales indicate the weight, and the native declares
+solemnly that it must be more than two frasilahs, yet our Banyan will
+asseverate and vow that the native knows nothing whatever about it, and
+that the scales are wrong; he musters up courage to lift it--it is a
+mere song, not much more than a frasilah. "Come," he will say, "close,
+man, take the money and go thy way. Art thou mad?" If the native
+hesitates, he will scream in a fury; he pushes him about, spurns the
+ivory with contemptuous indifference,--never was such ado about nothing;
+but though he tells the astounded native to be up and going, he never
+intends the ivory shall leave his shop.
+
+The Banyans exercise, of all other classes, most influence on the trade
+of Central Africa. With the exception of a very few rich Arabs, almost
+all other traders are subject to the pains and penalties which usury
+imposes. A trader desirous to make a journey into the interior, whether
+for slaves or ivory, gum-copal, or orchilla weed, proposes to a Banyan
+to advance him $5,000, at 50, 60, or 70 per cent. interest. The Banyan
+is safe enough not to lose, whether the speculation the trader is
+engaged upon pays or not. An experienced trader seldom loses, or if
+he has been unfortunate, through no deed of his own, he does not lose
+credit; with the help of the Banyan, he is easily set on his feet again.
+
+We will suppose, for the sake of illustrating how trade with the
+interior is managed, that the Arab conveys by his caravan $5,000's worth
+of goods into the interior. At Unyanyembe the goods are worth $10,000;
+at Ujiji, they are worth $15,000: they have trebled in price. Five doti,
+or $7.50, will purchase a slave in the markets of Ujiji that will fetch
+in Zanzibar $30. Ordinary menslaves may be purchased for $6 which would
+sell for $25 on the coast. We will say he purchases slaves to the full
+extent of his means--after deducting $1,500 expenses of carriage to
+Ujiji and back--viz. $3,500, the slaves--464 in number, at $7-50 per
+head--would realize $13,920 at Zanzibar! Again, let us illustrate trade
+in ivory. A merchant takes $5,000 to Ujiji, and after deducting $1,500
+for expenses to Ujiji, and back to Zanzibar, has still remaining $3,500
+in cloth and beads, with which he purchases ivory. At Ujiji ivory is
+bought at $20 the frasilah, or 35 lbs., by which he is enabled with
+$3,500 to collect 175 frasilahs, which, if good ivory, is worth about
+$60 per frasilah at Zanzibar. The merchant thus finds that he has
+realized $10,500 net profit! Arab traders have often done better than
+this, but they almost always have come back with an enormous margin of
+profit.
+
+The next people to the Banyans in power in Zanzibar are the Mohammedan
+Hindis. Really it has been a debateable subject in my mind whether the
+Hindis are not as wickedly determined to cheat in trade as the Banyans.
+But, if I have conceded the palm to the latter, it has been done very
+reluctantly. This tribe of Indians can produce scores of unconscionable
+rascals where they can show but one honest merchant. One of the
+honestest among men, white or black, red or yellow, is a Mohammedan
+Hindi called Tarya Topan. Among the Europeans at Zanzibar, he has become
+a proverb for honesty, and strict business integrity. He is enormously
+wealthy, owns several ships and dhows, and is a prominent man in the
+councils of Seyd Burghash. Tarya has many children, two or three of
+whom are grown-up sons, whom he has reared up even as he is himself. But
+Tarya is but a representative of an exceedingly small minority.
+
+The Arabs, the Banyans, and the Mohammedan Hindis, represent the higher
+and the middle classes. These classes own the estates, the ships, and
+the trade. To these classes bow the half-caste and the negro.
+
+The next most important people who go to make up the mixed population of
+this island are the negroes. They consist of the aborigines, Wasawahili,
+Somalis, Comorines, Wanyamwezi, and a host of tribal representatives of
+Inner Africa.
+
+To a white stranger about penetrating Africa, it is a most interesting
+walk through the negro quarters of the Wanyamwezi and the Wasawahili.
+For here he begins to learn the necessity of admitting that negroes are
+men, like himself, though of a different colour; that they have passions
+and prejudices, likes and dislikes, sympathies and antipathies, tastes
+and feelings, in common with all human nature. The sooner he perceives
+this fact, and adapts himself accordingly, the easier will be his
+journey among the several races of the interior. The more plastic his
+nature, the more prosperous will be his travels.
+
+Though I had lived some time among the negroes of our Southern States,
+my education was Northern, and I had met in the United States black men
+whom I was proud to call friends. I was thus prepared to admit any black
+man, possessing the attributes of true manhood or any good qualities, to
+my friendship, even to a brotherhood with myself; and to respect him
+for such, as much as if he were of my own colour and race. Neither his
+colour, nor any peculiarities of physiognomy should debar him with me
+from any rights he could fairly claim as a man. "Have these men--these
+black savages from pagan Africa," I asked myself, "the qualities
+which make man loveable among his fellows? Can these men--these
+barbarians--appreciate kindness or feel resentment like myself?" was my
+mental question as I travelled through their quarters and observed their
+actions. Need I say, that I was much comforted in observing that they
+were as ready to be influenced by passions, by loves and hates, as I
+was myself; that the keenest observation failed to detect any great
+difference between their nature and my own?
+
+The negroes of the island probably number two-thirds of the entire
+population. They compose the working-class, whether enslaved or free.
+Those enslaved perform the work required on the plantations, the
+estates, and gardens of the landed proprietors, or perform the work of
+carriers, whether in the country or in the city. Outside the city they
+may be seen carrying huge loads on their heads, as happy as possible,
+not because they are kindly treated or that their work is light, but
+because it is their nature to be gay and light-hearted, because they,
+have conceived neither joys nor hopes which may not be gratified at
+will, nor cherished any ambition beyond their reach, and therefore have
+not been baffled in their hopes nor known disappointment.
+
+Within the city, negro carriers may be heard at all hours, in couples,
+engaged in the transportation of clove-bags, boxes of merchandise, &c.,
+from store to "godown" and from "go-down" to the beach, singing a kind
+of monotone chant for the encouragement of each other, and for the
+guiding of their pace as they shuffle through the streets with
+bare feet. You may recognise these men readily, before long, as old
+acquaintances, by the consistency with which they sing the tunes they
+have adopted. Several times during a day have I heard the same couple
+pass beneath the windows of the Consulate, delivering themselves of
+the same invariable tune and words. Some might possibly deem the songs
+foolish and silly, but they had a certain attraction for me, and I
+considered that they were as useful as anything else for the purposes
+they were intended.
+
+The town of Zanzibar, situate on the south-western shore of the island,
+contains a population of nearly one hundred thousand inhabitants; that
+of the island altogether I would estimate at not more than two hundred
+thousand inhabitants, including all races.
+
+The greatest number of foreign vessels trading with this port are
+American, principally from New York and Salem. After the American come
+the German, then come the French and English. They arrive loaded with
+American sheeting, brandy, gunpowder, muskets, beads, English cottons,
+brass-wire, china-ware, and other notions, and depart with ivory,
+gum-copal, cloves, hides, cowries, sesamum, pepper, and cocoa-nut oil.
+
+The value of the exports from this port is estimated at $3,000,000, and
+the imports from all countries at $3,500,000.
+
+The Europeans and Americans residing in the town of Zanzibar are either
+Government officials, independent merchants, or agents for a few great
+mercantile houses in Europe and America.
+
+The climate of Zanzibar is not the most agreeable in the world. I have
+heard Americans and Europeans condemn it most heartily. I have also seen
+nearly one-half of the white colony laid up in one day from sickness. A
+noxious malaria is exhaled from the shallow inlet of Malagash, and the
+undrained filth, the garbage, offal, dead mollusks, dead pariah dogs,
+dead cats, all species of carrion, remains of men and beasts unburied,
+assist to make Zanzibar a most unhealthy city; and considering that it
+it ought to be most healthy, nature having pointed out to man the means,
+and having assisted him so far, it is most wonderful that the ruling
+prince does not obey the dictates of reason.
+
+The bay of Zanzibar is in the form of a crescent, and on the
+south-western horn of it is built the city. On the east Zanzibar is
+bounded almost entirely by the Malagash Lagoon, an inlet of the sea. It
+penetrates to at least two hundred and fifty yards of the sea behind
+or south of Shangani Point. Were these two hundred and fifty yards cut
+through by a ten foot ditch, and the inlet deepened slightly, Zanzibar
+would become an island of itself, and what wonders would it not effect
+as to health and salubrity! I have never heard this suggestion made, but
+it struck me that the foreign consuls resident at Zanzibar might suggest
+this work to the Sultan, and so get the credit of having made it as
+healthy a place to live in as any near the equator. But apropos of this,
+I remember what Capt. Webb, the American Consul, told me on my first
+arrival, when I expressed to him my wonder at the apathy and inertness
+of men born with the indomitable energy which characterises Europeans
+and Americans, of men imbued with the progressive and stirring instincts
+of the white people, who yet allow themselves to dwindle into pallid
+phantoms of their kind, into hypochondriacal invalids, into hopeless
+believers in the deadliness of the climate, with hardly a trace of that
+daring and invincible spirit which rules the world.
+
+"Oh," said Capt. Webb, "it is all very well for you to talk about energy
+and all that kind of thing, but I assure you that a residence of four or
+five years on this island, among such people as are here, would make you
+feel that it was a hopeless task to resist the influence of the example
+by which the most energetic spirits are subdued, and to which they must
+submit in time, sooner or later. We were all terribly energetic when we
+first came here, and struggled bravely to make things go on as we were
+accustomed to have them at home, but we have found that we were
+knocking our heads against granite walls to no purpose whatever. These
+fellows--the Arabs, the Banyans, and the Hindis--you can't make them go
+faster by ever so much scolding and praying, and in a very short time
+you see the folly of fighting against the unconquerable. Be patient, and
+don't fret, that is my advice, or you won't live long here."
+
+There were three or four intensely busy men, though, at Zanzibar, who
+were out at all hours of the day. I know one, an American; I fancy
+I hear the quick pit-pat of his feet on the pavement beneath the
+Consulate, his cheery voice ringing the salutation, "Yambo!" to every
+one he met; and he had lived at Zanzibar twelve years.
+
+I know another, one of the sturdiest of Scotchmen, a most
+pleasant-mannered and unaffected man, sincere in whatever he did
+or said, who has lived at Zanzibar several years, subject to the
+infructuosities of the business he has been engaged in, as well as to
+the calor and ennui of the climate, who yet presents as formidable a
+front as ever to the apathetic native of Zanzibar. No man can charge
+Capt. H. C. Fraser, formerly of the Indian Navy, with being apathetic.
+
+I might with ease give evidence of the industry of others, but they are
+all my friends, and they are all good. The American, English, German,
+and French residents have ever treated me with a courtesy and kindness
+I am not disposed to forget. Taken as a body, it would be hard to find
+a more generous or hospitable colony of white men in any part of the
+world.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III. -- ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION.
+
+
+I was totally ignorant of the interior, and it was difficult at first to
+know, what I needed, in order to take an Expedition into Central Africa.
+Time was precious, also, and much of it could not be devoted to inquiry
+and investigation. In a case like this, it would have been a godsend, I
+thought, had either of the three gentlemen, Captains Burton, Speke,
+or Grant, given some information on these points; had they devoted a
+chapter upon, "How to get ready an Expedition for Central Africa." The
+purpose of this chapter, then, is to relate how I set about it, that
+other travellers coming after me may have the benefit of my experience.
+
+These are some of the questions I asked myself, as I tossed on my bed at
+night:--
+
+"How much money is required?"
+
+"How many pagazis, or carriers?
+
+"How many soldiers?"
+
+"How much cloth?"
+
+"How many beads?"
+
+"How much wire?"
+
+"What kinds of cloth are required for the different tribes?"
+
+Ever so many questions to myself brought me no clearer the exact point
+I wished to arrive at. I scribbled over scores of sheets of paper, made
+estimates, drew out lists of material, calculated the cost of keeping
+one hundred men for one year, at so many yards of different kinds of
+cloth, etc. I studied Burton, Speke, and Grant in vain. A good deal of
+geographical, ethnological, and other information appertaining to the
+study of Inner Africa was obtainable, but information respecting the
+organization of an expedition requisite before proceeding to Africa, was
+not in any book. The Europeans at Zanzibar knew as little as possible
+about this particular point. There was not one white man at Zanzibar who
+could tell how many dotis a day a force of one hundred men required to
+buy food for one day on the road. Neither, indeed, was it their business
+to know. But what should I do at all, at all? This was a grand question.
+
+I decided it were best to hunt up an Arab merchant who had been engaged
+in the ivory trade, or who was fresh from the interior.
+
+Sheikh Hashid was a man of note and of wealth in Zanzibar. He had
+himself despatched several caravans into the interior, and was
+necessarily acquainted with several prominent traders who came to
+his house to gossip about their adventures and gains. He was also the
+proprietor of the large house Capt. Webb occupied; besides, he lived
+across the narrow street which separated his house from the Consulate.
+Of all men Sheikh Hashid was the man to be consulted, and he was
+accordingly invited to visit me at the Consulate.
+
+From the grey-bearded and venerable-looking Sheikh, I elicited more
+information about African currency, the mode of procedure, the quantity
+and quality of stuffs I required, than I had obtained from three months'
+study of books upon Central Africa; and from other Arab merchants
+to whom the ancient Sheikh introduced me, I received most valuable
+suggestions and hints, which enabled me at last to organize an
+Expedition.
+
+The reader must bear in mind that a traveller requires only that which
+is sufficient for travel and exploration that a superfluity of goods or
+means will prove as fatal to him as poverty of supplies. It is on
+this question of quality and quantity that the traveller has first to
+exercise his judgment and discretion.
+
+My informants gave me to understand that for one hundred men, 10 doti,
+or 40 yards of cloth per diem, would suffice for food. The proper course
+to pursue, I found, was to purchase 2,000 doti of American sheeting,
+1,000 doti of Kaniki, and 650 doti of the coloured cloths, such as
+Barsati, a great favourite in Unyamwezi; Sohari, taken in Ugogo;
+Ismahili, Taujiri, Joho, Shash, Rehani, Jamdani or Kunguru-Cutch, blue
+and pink. These were deemed amply sufficient for the subsistence of
+one hundred men for twelve months. Two years at this rate would require
+4,000 doti = 16,000 yards of American sheeting; 2,000 doti = 8,000 yards
+of Kaniki; 1,300 doti = 5,200 yards of mixed coloured cloths. This was
+definite and valuable information to me, and excepting the lack of some
+suggestions as to the quality of the sheeting, Kaniki, and coloured
+cloths, I had obtained all I desired upon this point.
+
+Second in importance to the amount of cloth required was the quantity
+and quality of the beads necessary. Beads, I was told, took the place
+of cloth currency among some tribes of the interior. One tribe preferred
+white to black beads, brown to yellow, red to green, green to white, and
+so on. Thus, in Unyamwezi, red (sami-sami) beads would readily be taken,
+where all other kinds would be refused; black (bubu) beads, though
+currency in Ugogo, were positively worthless with all other tribes; the
+egg (sungomazzi) beads, though valuable in Ujiji and Uguhha, would be
+refused in all other countries; the white (Merikani) beads though
+good in Ufipa, and some parts of Usagara and Ugogo, would certainly be
+despised in Useguhha and Ukonongo. Such being the case, I was obliged to
+study closely, and calculate the probable stay of an expedition in the
+several countries, so as to be sure to provide a sufficiency of each
+kind, and guard against any great overplus. Burton and Speke, for
+instance, were obliged to throw away as worthless several hundred fundo
+of beads.
+
+For example, supposing the several nations of Europe had each its own
+currency, without the means of exchange, and supposing a man was about
+to travel through Europe on foot, before starting he would be apt to
+calculate how many days it would take him to travel through France; how
+many through Prussia, Austria, and Russia, then to reckon the expense
+he would be likely to incur per day. If the expense be set down at a
+napoleon per day, and his journey through France would occupy thirty
+days, the sum required forgoing and returning might be properly set down
+at sixty napoleons, in which case, napoleons not being current money
+in Prussia, Austria, or Russia, it would be utterly useless for him
+to burden himself with the weight of a couple of thousand napoleons in
+gold.
+
+My anxiety on this point was most excruciating. Over and over I studied
+the hard names and measures, conned again and again the polysyllables;
+hoping to be able to arrive some time at an intelligible definition
+of the terms. I revolved in my mind the words Mukunguru, Ghulabio,
+Sungomazzi, Kadunduguru, Mutunda, Samisami, Bubu, Merikani, Hafde,
+Lunghio-Rega, and Lakhio, until I was fairly beside myself. Finally,
+however, I came to the conclusion that if I reckoned my requirements at
+fifty khete, or five fundo per day, for two years, and if I purchased
+only eleven varieties, I might consider myself safe enough. The purchase
+was accordingly made, and twenty-two sacks of the best species were
+packed and brought to Capt. Webb's house, ready for transportation to
+Bagamoyo.
+
+After the beads came the wire question. I discovered, after considerable
+trouble, that Nos. 5 and 6--almost of the thickness of telegraph
+wire--were considered the best numbers for trading purposes. While beads
+stand for copper coins in Africa, cloth measures for silver; wire
+is reckoned as gold in the countries beyond the Tan-ga-ni-ka.* Ten
+frasilah, or 350 lbs., of brass-wire, my Arab adviser thought, would be
+ample.
+
+
+     * It will be seen that I differ from Capt. Burton in the
+     spelling of this word, as I deem the letter "y" superfluous.
+
+
+Having purchased the cloth, the beads, and the wire, it was with no
+little pride that I surveyed the comely bales and packages lying piled
+up, row above row, in Capt. Webb's capacious store-room. Yet my work
+was not ended, it was but beginning; there were provisions,
+cooking-utensils, boats, rope, twine, tents, donkeys, saddles, bagging,
+canvas, tar, needles, tools, ammunition, guns, equipments, hatchets,
+medicines, bedding, presents for chiefs--in short, a thousand things not
+yet purchased. The ordeal of chaffering and haggling with steel-hearted
+Banyans, Hindis, Arabs, and half-castes was most trying. For instance, I
+purchased twenty-two donkeys at Zanzibar. $40 and $50 were asked, which
+I had to reduce to $15 or $20 by an infinite amount of argument worthy,
+I think, of a nobler cause. As was my experience with the ass-dealers so
+was it with the petty merchants; even a paper of pins was not purchased
+without a five per cent. reduction from the price demanded, involving,
+of course, a loss of much time and patience.
+
+After collecting the donkeys, I discovered there were no pack-saddles
+to be obtained in Zanzibar. Donkeys without pack-saddles were of no use
+whatever. I invented a saddle to be manufactured by myself and my white
+man Farquhar, wholly from canvas, rope, and cotton.
+
+Three or four frasilahs of cotton, and ten bolts of canvas were required
+for the saddles. A specimen saddle was made by myself in order to test
+its efficiency. A donkey was taken and saddled, and a load of 140
+lbs. was fastened to it, and though the animal--a wild creature of
+Unyamwezi--struggled and reared frantic ally, not a particle gave
+way. After this experiment, Farquhar was set to work to manufacture
+twenty-one more after the same pattern. Woollen pads were also purchased
+to protect the animals from being galled. It ought to be mentioned here,
+perhaps, that the idea of such a saddle as I manufactured, was first
+derived from the Otago saddle, in use among the transport-trains of the
+English army in Abyssinia.
+
+A man named John William Shaw--a native of London, England, lately
+third-mate of the American ship 'Nevada'--applied to me for work. Though
+his discharge from the 'Nevada' was rather suspicious, yet he possessed
+all the requirements of such a man as I needed, and was an experienced
+hand with the palm and needle, could cut canvas to fit anything, was
+a pretty good navigator, ready and willing, so far as his professions
+went.. I saw no reason to refuse his services, and he was accordingly
+engaged at $300 per annum, to rank second to William L. Farquhar.
+Farquhar was a capital navigator and excellent mathematician; was
+strong, energetic, and clever.
+
+The next thing I was engaged upon was to enlist, arm, and equip, a
+faithful escort of twenty men for the road. Johari, the chief dragoman
+of the American Consulate, informed me that he knew where certain of
+Speke's "Faithfuls" were yet to be found. The idea had struck me before,
+that if I could obtain the services of a few men acquainted with the
+ways of white men, and who could induce other good men to join the
+expedition I was organizing, I might consider myself fortunate. More
+especially had I thought of Seedy Mbarak Mombay, commonly called
+"Bombay," who though his head was "woodeny," and his hands "clumsy," was
+considered to be the "faithfulest" of the "Faithfuls."
+
+With the aid of the dragoman Johari, I secured in a few hours the
+services of Uledi (Capt. Grant's former valet), Ulimengo, Baruti,
+Ambari, Mabruki (Muinyi Mabruki--Bull-headed Mabruki, Capt. Burton's
+former unhappy valet)--five of Speke's "Faithfuls." When I asked them if
+they were willing to join another white man's expedition to Ujiji,
+they replied very readily that they were willing to join any brother
+of "Speke's." Dr. John Kirk, Her Majesty's Consul at Zanzibar, who was
+present, told them that though I was no brother of "Speke's," I spoke
+his language. This distinction mattered little to them: and I heard
+them, with great delight, declare their readiness to go anywhere with
+me, or do anything I wished.
+
+Mombay, as they called him, or Bombay, as we know him, had gone to
+Pemba, an island lying north of Zanzibar. Uledi was sure Mombay
+would jump with joy at the prospect of another expedition. Johari was
+therefore commissioned to write to him at Pemba, to inform him of the
+good fortune in store for him.
+
+On the fourth morning after the letter had been despatched, the famous
+Bombay made his appearance, followed in decent order and due rank by
+the "Faithfuls" of "Speke." I looked in vain for the "woodeny head" and
+"alligator teeth" with which his former master had endowed him. I saw
+a slender short man of fifty or thereabouts, with a grizzled head, an
+uncommonly high, narrow forehead, with a very large mouth, showing teeth
+very irregular, and wide apart. An ugly rent in the upper front row of
+Bombay's teeth was made with the clenched fist of Capt. Speke in Uganda
+when his master's patience was worn out, and prompt punishment became
+necessary. That Capt. Speke had spoiled him with kindness was
+evident, from the fact that Bombay had the audacity to stand up for a
+boxing-match with him. But these things I only found out, when, months
+afterwards, I was called upon to administer punishment to him myself.
+But, at his first appearance, I was favourably impressed with Bombay,
+though his face was rugged, his mouth large, his eyes small, and his
+nose flat.
+
+"Salaam aliekum," were the words he greeted me with. "Aliekum salaam,"
+I replied, with all the gravity I could muster. I then informed him I
+required him as captain of my soldiers to Ujiji. His reply was that he
+was ready to do whatever I told him, go wherever I liked in short, be a
+pattern to servants, and a model to soldiers. He hoped I would give him
+a uniform, and a good gun, both of which were promised.
+
+Upon inquiring for the rest of the "Faithfuls" who accompanied Speke
+into Egypt, I was told that at Zanzibar there were but six. Ferrajji,
+Maktub, Sadik, Sunguru, Manyu, Matajari, Mkata, and Almas, were dead;
+Uledi and Mtamani were in Unyanyembe; Hassan had gone to Kilwa, and
+Ferahan was supposed to be in Ujiji.
+
+Out of the six "Faithfuls," each of whom still retained his medal for
+assisting in the "Discovery of the Sources of the Nile," one,
+poor Mabruki, had met with a sad misfortune, which I feared would
+incapacitate him from active usefulness.
+
+Mabruki the "Bull-headed," owned a shamba (or a house with a garden
+attached to it), of which he was very proud. Close to him lived a
+neighbour in similar circumstances, who was a soldier of Seyd Majid,
+with whom Mabruki, who was of a quarrelsome disposition, had a feud,
+which culminated in the soldier inducing two or three of his comrades to
+assist him in punishing the malevolent Mabruki, and this was done in a
+manner that only the heart of an African could conceive. They tied
+the unfortunate fellow by his wrists to a branch of a tree, and after
+indulging their brutal appetite for revenge in torturing him, left him
+to hang in that position for two days. At the expiration of the second
+day, he was accidentally discovered in a most pitiable condition. His
+hands had swollen to an immense size, and the veins of one hand having
+been ruptured, he had lost its use. It is needless to say that, when the
+affair came to Seyd Majid's ears, the miscreants were severely punished.
+Dr. Kirk, who attended the poor fellow, succeeded in restoring one hand
+to something of a resemblance of its former shape, but the other hand is
+sadly marred, and its former usefulness gone for ever.
+
+However, I engaged Mabruki, despite his deformed hands, his ugliness and
+vanity, because he was one of Speke's "Faithfuls." For if he but wagged
+his tongue in my service, kept his eyes open, and opened his mouth at
+the proper time, I assured myself I could make him useful.
+
+Bombay, my captain of escort, succeeded in getting eighteen more free
+men to volunteer as "askari" (soldiers), men whom he knew would not
+desert, and for whom he declared himself responsible. They were an
+exceedingly fine-looking body of men, far more intelligent in appearance
+than I could ever have believed African barbarians could be. They hailed
+principally from Uhiyow, others from Unyamwezi, some came from Useguhha
+and Ugindo.
+
+Their wages were set down at $36 each man per annum, or $3 each per
+month. Each soldier was provided with a flintlock musket, powder horn,
+bullet-pouch, knife, and hatchet, besides enough powder and ball for 200
+rounds.
+
+Bombay, in consideration of his rank, and previous faithful services
+to Burton, Speke and Grant, was engaged at $80 a year, half that sum
+in advance, a good muzzle-loading rifle, besides, a pistol, knife, and
+hatchet were given to him, while the other five "Faithfuls," Ambari,
+Mabruki, Ulimengo, Baruti, and Uledi, were engaged at $40 a year, with
+proper equipments as soldiers.
+
+Having studied fairly well all the East African travellers' books
+regarding Eastern and Central Africa, my mind had conceived the
+difficulties which would present themselves during the prosecution of my
+search after Dr. Livingstone.
+
+To obviate all of these, as well as human wit could suggest, was my
+constant thought and aim.
+
+"Shall I permit myself, while looking from Ujiji over the waters of
+the Tanganika Lake to the other side, to be balked on the threshold of
+success by the insolence of a King Kannena or the caprice of a Hamed
+bin Sulayyam?" was a question I asked myself. To guard against such a
+contingency I determined to carry my own boats. "Then," I thought, "if
+I hear of Livingstone being on the Tanganika, I can launch my boat and
+proceed after him."
+
+I procured one large boat, capable of carrying twenty persons, with
+stores and goods sufficient for a cruise, from the American Consul, for
+the sum of $80, and a smaller one from another American gentleman for
+$40. The latter would hold comfortably six men, with suitable stores.
+
+I did not intend to carry the boats whole or bodily, but to strip them
+of their boards, and carry the timbers and thwarts only. As a substitute
+for the boards, I proposed to cover each boat with a double canvas skin
+well tarred. The work of stripping them and taking them to pieces fell
+to me. This little job occupied me five days.
+
+I also packed them up, for the pagazis. Each load was carefully weighed,
+and none exceeded 68 lbs. in weight. John Shaw excelled himself in the
+workmanship displayed on the canvas boats; when finished, they fitted
+their frames admirably. The canvas--six bolts of English hemp, No.
+3--was procured from Ludha Damji, who furnished it from the Sultan's
+storeroom.
+
+An insuperable obstacle to rapid transit in Africa is the want of
+carriers, and as speed was the main object of the Expedition under my
+command, my duty was to lessen this difficulty as much as possible.
+My carriers could only be engaged after arriving at Bagamoyo, on the
+mainland. I had over twenty good donkeys ready, and I thought a
+cart adapted for the footpaths of Africa might prove an advantage.
+Accordingly I had a cart constructed, eighteen inches wide and five feet
+long, supplied with two fore-wheels of a light American wagon, more for
+the purpose of conveying the narrow ammunition-boxes. I estimated that
+if a donkey could carry to Unyanyembe a load of four frasilahs, or 140
+lbs., he ought to be able to draw eight frasilahs on such a cart,
+which would be equal to the carrying capacity of four stout pagazis or
+carriers. Events will prove, how my theories were borne out by practice.
+
+When my purchases were completed, and I beheld them piled up, tier after
+tier, row upon row, here a mass of cooking-utensils, there bundles of
+rope, tents, saddles, a pile of portmanteaus and boxes, containing every
+imaginable thing, I confess I was rather abashed at my own temerity.
+Here were at least six tons of material! "How will it ever be possible,"
+I thought, "to move all this inert mass across the wilderness stretching
+between the sea, and the great lakes of Africa? Bah, cast all doubts
+away, man, and have at them! 'Sufficient for the day is the evil
+thereof,' without borrowing from the morrow."
+
+The traveller must needs make his way into the African interior after
+a fashion very different from that to which he has been accustomed in
+other countries. He requires to take with him just what a ship must have
+when about to sail on a long voyage. He must have his slop chest, his
+little store of canned dainties, and his medicines, besides which, he
+must have enough guns, powder, and ball to be able to make a series of
+good fights if necessary. He must have men to convey these miscellaneous
+articles; and as a man's maximum load does not exceed 70 lbs., to convey
+11,000 lbs. requires nearly 160 men.
+
+Europe and the Orient, even Arabia and Turkestan, have royal ways
+of travelling compared to Africa. Specie is received in all those
+countries, by which a traveller may carry his means about with him on
+his own person. Eastern and Central Africa, however, demand a necklace,
+instead of a cent; two yards of American sheeting, instead of half a
+dollar, or a florin, and a kitindi of thick brass-wire, in place of a
+gold piece.
+
+The African traveller can hire neither wagons nor camels, neither
+horses nor mules, to proceed with him into the interior. His means of
+conveyance are limited to black and naked men, who demand at least $15 a
+head for every 70 lbs. weight carried only as far as Unyanyembe.
+
+One thing amongst others my predecessors omitted to inform men bound for
+Africa, which is of importance, and that is, that no traveller should
+ever think of coming to Zanzibar with his money in any other shape than
+gold coin. Letters of credit, circular notes, and such civilized things
+I have found to be a century ahead of Zanzibar people.
+
+Twenty and twenty-five cents deducted out of every dollar I drew on
+paper is one of the unpleasant, if not unpleasantest things I have
+committed to lasting memory. For Zanzibar is a spot far removed from all
+avenues of European commerce, and coin is at a high premium. A man
+may talk and entreat, but though he may have drafts, cheques, circular
+notes, letters of credit, a carte blanche to get what he wants, out of
+every dollar must, be deducted twenty, twenty-five and thirty cents,
+so I was told, and so was my experience. What a pity there is no
+branch-bank here!
+
+I had intended to have gone into Africa incognito. But the fact that a
+white man, even an American, was about to enter Africa was soon known
+all over Zanzibar. This fact was repeated a thousand times in the
+streets, proclaimed in all shop alcoves, and at the custom-house. The
+native bazaar laid hold of it, and agitated it day and night until my
+departure. The foreigners, including the Europeans, wished to know the
+pros and cons of my coming in and going out.
+
+My answer to all questions, pertinent and impertinent, was, I am going
+to Africa. Though my card bore the words
+
+     ________________________________________
+    |                                        |
+    |            HENRY M.  STANLEY.          |
+    |                                        |
+    |                                        |
+    |  New York Herald.                      |
+    |________________________________________|
+
+very few, I believe, ever coupled the words 'New York Herald' with a
+search after "Doctor Livingstone." It was not my fault, was it?
+
+Ah, me! what hard work it is to start an expedition alone! What with
+hurrying through the baking heat of the fierce relentless sun from shop
+to shop, strengthening myself with far-reaching and enduring patience
+far the haggling contest with the livid-faced Hindi, summoning courage
+and wit to brow-beat the villainous Goanese, and match the foxy Banyan,
+talking volumes throughout the day, correcting estimates, making up
+accounts, superintending the delivery of purchased articles, measuring
+and weighing them, to see that everything was of full measure and
+weight, overseeing the white men Farquhar and Shaw, who were busy on
+donkey saddles, sails, tents, and boats for the Expedition, I felt, when
+the day was over, as though limbs and brain well deserved their rest.
+Such labours were mine unremittingly for a month.
+
+Having bartered drafts on Mr. James Gordon Bennett to the amount of
+several thousand dollars for cloth, beads, wire, donkeys, and a thousand
+necessaries, having advanced pay to the white men, and black escort
+of the Expedition, having fretted Capt. Webb and his family more than
+enough with the din of preparation, and filled his house with my goods,
+there was nothing further to do but to leave my formal adieus with the
+Europeans, and thank the Sultan and those gentlemen who had assisted me,
+before embarking for Bagamoyo.
+
+The day before my departure from Zanzibar the American Consul, having
+just habited himself in his black coat, and taking with him an extra
+black hat, in order to be in state apparel, proceeded with me to the
+Sultan's palace. The prince had been generous to me; he had presented me
+with an Arab horse, had furnished me with letters of introduction to his
+agents, his chief men, and representatives in the interior, and in many
+other ways had shown himself well disposed towards me.
+
+The palace is a large, roomy, lofty, square house close to the fort,
+built of coral, and plastered thickly with lime mortar. In appearance
+it is half Arabic and half Italian. The shutters are Venetian blinds
+painted a vivid green, and presenting a striking contrast to the
+whitewashed walls. Before the great, lofty, wide door were ranged in
+two crescents several Baluch and Persian mercenaries, armed with
+curved swords and targes of rhinoceros hide. Their dress consisted of a
+muddy-white cotton shirt, reaching to the ancles, girdled with a leather
+belt thickly studded with silver bosses.
+
+As we came in sight a signal was passed to some person inside the
+entrance. When within twenty yards of the door, the Sultan, who was
+standing waiting, came down the steps, and, passing through the ranks,
+advanced toward us, with his right hand stretched out, and a genial
+smile of welcome on his face. On our side we raised our hats, and shook
+hands with him, after which, doing according as he bade us, we passed
+forward, and arrived on the highest step near the entrance door. He
+pointed forward; we bowed and arrived at the foot of an unpainted
+and narrow staircase to turn once more to the Sultan. The Consul, I
+perceived, was ascending sideways, a mode of progression which I saw was
+intended for a compromise with decency and dignity. At the top of the
+stairs we waited, with our faces towards the up-coming Prince. Again we
+were waved magnanimously forward, for before us was the reception-hall
+and throne-room. I noticed, as I marched forward to the furthest end,
+that the room was high, and painted in the Arabic style, that the carpet
+was thick and of Persian fabric, that the furniture consisted of a dozen
+gilt chairs and a chandelier,
+
+We were seated; Ludha Damji, the Banyan collector of customs, a
+venerable-looking old man, with a shrewd intelligent face, sat on the
+right of the Sultan; next to him was the great Mohammedan merchant Tarya
+Topan who had come to be present at the interview, not only because he
+was one of the councillors of His Highness, but because he also took a
+lively interest in this American Expedition. Opposite to Ludha sat Capt.
+Webb, and next to him I was seated, opposite Tarya Topan. The Sultan sat
+in a gilt chair between the Americans and the councillors. Johari
+the dragoman stood humbly before the Sultan, expectant and ready to
+interpret what we had to communicate to the Prince.
+
+The Sultan, so far as dress goes, might be taken for a Mingrelian
+gentleman, excepting, indeed, for the turban, whose ample folds in
+alternate colours of red, yellow, brown, and white, encircled his head.
+His long robe was of dark cloth, cinctured round the waist with his rich
+sword-belt, from which was suspended a gold-hilted scimitar, encased in
+a scabbard also enriched with gold: His legs and feet were bare, and had
+a ponderous look about them, since he suffered from that strange curse
+of Zanzibar--elephantiasis. His feet were slipped into a pair of watta
+(Arabic for slippers), with thick soles and a strong leathern band over
+the instep. His light complexion and his correct features, which are
+intelligent and regular, bespeak the Arab patrician. They indicate,
+however, nothing except his high descent and blood; no traits of
+character are visible unless there is just a trace of amiability, and
+perfect contentment with himself and all around.
+
+Such is Prince, or Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar and Pemba, and the
+East coast of Africa, from Somali Land to the Mozambique, as he appeared
+to me.
+
+Coffee was served in cups supported by golden finjans, also some
+cocoa-nut milk, and rich sweet sherbet.
+
+The conversation began with the question addressed to the Consul.
+
+"Are you well?"
+
+Consul.--"Yes, thank you. How is His Highness?"
+
+Highness.--"Quite well!"
+
+Highness to me.--"Are you well?"
+
+Answer.--"Quite well, thanks!"
+
+The Consul now introduces business; and questions about my travels
+follow from His Highness--
+
+"How do you like Persia?"
+
+"Have you seen Kerbela, Bagdad, Masr, Stamboul?"
+
+"Have the Turks many soldiers?"
+
+"How many has Persia?"
+
+"Is Persia fertile?"
+
+"How do you like Zanzibar?"
+
+Having answered each question to his Highness' satisfaction, he handed
+me letters of introduction to his officers at Bagamoyo and Kaole, and a
+general introductory letter to all Arab merchants whom I might meet on
+the road, and concluded his remarks to me, with the expressed hope, that
+on whatever mission I was bound, I should be perfectly successful.
+
+We bowed ourselves out of his presence in much the same manner that we
+had bowed ourselves in, he accompanying us to the great entrance door.
+
+Mr. Goodhue of Salem, an American merchant long resident in Zanzibar,
+presented me, as I gave him my adieu, with a blooded bay horse, imported
+from the Cape of Good Hope, and worth, at least at Zanzibar, $500.
+
+Feb. 4.--By the 4th of February, twenty-eight days from the date of my
+arrival at Zanzibar, the organization and equipment of the "'New
+York Herald' Expedition" was complete; tents and saddles had been
+manufactured, boats and sails were ready. The donkeys brayed, and the
+horses neighed impatiently for the road.
+
+Etiquette demanded that I should once more present my card to the
+European and American Consuls at Zanzibar, and the word "farewell" was
+said to everybody.
+
+On the fifth day, four dhows were anchored before the American
+Consulate. Into one were lifted the two horses, into two others the
+donkeys, into the fourth, the largest, the black escort, and bulky
+moneys of the Expedition.
+
+A little before noon we set sail. The American flag, a present to the
+Expedition by that kind-hearted lady, Mrs. Webb, was raised to the
+mast-head; the Consul, his lady, and exuberant little children, Mary
+and Charley, were on the housetop waving the starry banner, hats, and
+handkerchiefs, a token of farewell to me and mine. Happy people, and
+good! may their course and ours be prosperous, and may God's blessing
+rest on us all!
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV. -- LIFE AT BAGAMOYO.
+
+
+The isle of Zanzibar with its groves of cocoa-nut, mango, clove,
+and cinnamon, and its sentinel islets of Chumbi and French, with its
+whitewashed city and jack-fruit odor, with its harbor and ships that
+tread the deep, faded slowly from view, and looking westward, the
+African continent rose, a similar bank of green verdure to that which
+had just receded till it was a mere sinuous line above the horizon,
+looming in a northerly direction to the sublimity of a mountain chain.
+The distance across from Zanzibar to Bagamoyo may be about twenty-five
+miles, yet it took the dull and lazy dhows ten hours before they dropped
+anchor on the top of the coral reef plainly visible a few feet below the
+surface of the water, within a hundred yards of the beach.
+
+The newly-enlisted soldiers, fond of noise and excitement, discharged
+repeated salvos by way of a salute to the mixed crowd of Arabs, Banyans,
+and Wasawahili, who stood on the beach to receive the Musungu (white
+man), which they did with a general stare and a chorus of "Yambo, bana?"
+(how are you, master?)
+
+In our own land the meeting with a large crowd is rather a tedious
+operation, as our independent citizens insist on an interlacing of
+fingers, and a vigorous shaking thereof before their pride is satisfied,
+and the peaceful manifestation endorsed; but on this beach, well lined
+with spectators, a response of "Yambo, bana!" sufficed, except with one
+who of all there was acknowledged the greatest, and who, claiming, like
+all great men, individual attention, came forward to exchange another
+"Yambo!" on his own behalf, and to shake hands. This personage with a
+long trailing turban, was Jemadar Esau, commander of the Zanzibar force
+of soldiers, police, or Baluch gendarmes stationed at Bagamoyo. He had
+accompanied Speke and Grant a good distance into the interior, and they
+had rewarded him liberally. He took upon himself the responsibility of
+assisting in the debarkation of the Expedition, and unworthy as was his
+appearance, disgraceful as he was in his filth, I here commend him for
+his influence over the rabble to all future East African travellers.
+
+Foremost among those who welcomed us was a Father of the Society of
+St.-Esprit, who with other Jesuits, under Father Superior Horner, have
+established a missionary post of considerable influence and merit at
+Bagamoyo. We were invited to partake of the hospitality of the Mission,
+to take our meals there, and, should we desire it, to pitch our camp
+on their grounds. But however strong the geniality of the welcome and
+sincere the heartiness of the invitation, I am one of those who prefer
+independence to dependence if it is possible. Besides, my sense of the
+obligation between host and guest had just had a fine edge put upon
+it by the delicate forbearance of my kind host at Zanzibar, who had
+betrayed no sign of impatience at the trouble I was only too conscious
+of having caused him. I therefore informed the hospitable Padre, that
+only for one night could I suffer myself to be enticed from my camp.
+
+I selected a house near the western outskirts of the town, where there
+is a large open square through which the road from Unyanyembe enters.
+Had I been at Bagamoyo a month, I could not have bettered my location.
+My tents were pitched fronting the tembe (house) I had chosen, enclosing
+a small square, where business could be transacted, bales looked over,
+examined, and marked, free from the intrusion of curious sightseers.
+After driving the twenty-seven animals of the Expedition into the
+enclosure in the rear of the house, storing the bales of goods, and
+placing a cordon of soldiers round, I proceeded to the Jesuit Mission,
+to a late dinner, being tired and ravenous, leaving the newly-formed
+camp in charge of the white men and Capt. Bombay.
+
+The Mission is distant from the town a good half mile, to the north of
+it; it is quite a village of itself, numbering some fifteen or sixteen
+houses. There are more than ten padres engaged in the establishment,
+and as many sisters, and all find plenty of occupation in educing from
+native crania the fire of intelligence. Truth compels me to state that
+they are very successful, having over two hundred pupils, boys and
+girls, in the Mission, and, from the oldest to the youngest, they show
+the impress of the useful education they have received.
+
+The dinner furnished to the padres and their guest consisted of as many
+plats as a first-class hotel in Paris usually supplies, and cooked with
+nearly as much skill, though the surroundings were by no means equal.
+I feel assured also that the padres, besides being tasteful in their
+potages and entrees, do not stultify their ideas for lack of that
+element which Horace, Hafiz, and Byron have praised so much. The
+champagne--think of champagne Cliquot in East Africa!--Lafitte, La Rose,
+Burgundy, and Bordeaux were of first-rate quality, and the meek and
+lowly eyes of the fathers were not a little brightened under the
+vinous influence. Ah! those fathers understand life, and appreciate its
+duration. Their festive board drives the African jungle fever from their
+doors, while it soothes the gloom and isolation which strike one with
+awe, as one emerges from the lighted room and plunges into the depths
+of the darkness of an African night, enlivened only by the wearying
+monotone of the frogs and crickets, and the distant ululation of the
+hyena. It requires somewhat above human effort, unaided by the ruby
+liquid that cheers, to be always suave and polite amid the dismalities
+of native life in Africa.
+
+After the evening meal, which replenished my failing strength, and for
+which I felt the intensest gratitude, the most advanced of the pupils
+came forward, to the number of twenty, with brass instruments,
+thus forming a full band of music. It rather astonished me to hear
+instrumental sounds issue forth in harmony from such woolly-headed
+youngsters; to hear well-known French music at this isolated port,
+to hear negro boys, that a few months ago knew nothing beyond the
+traditions of their ignorant mothers, stand forth and chant Parisian
+songs about French valor and glory, with all the sangfroid of gamins
+from the purlieus of Saint-Antoine.
+
+I had a most refreshing night's rest, and at dawn I sought out my
+camp, with a will to enjoy the new life now commencing. On counting the
+animals, two donkeys were missing; and on taking notes of my African
+moneys, one coil of No. 6 wire was not to be found. Everybody had
+evidently fallen on the ground to sleep, oblivious of the fact that
+on the coast there are many dishonest prowlers at night. Soldiers were
+despatched to search through the town and neighbourhood, and Jemadar
+Esau was apprised of our loss, and stimulated to discover the animals
+by the promise of a reward. Before night one of the missing donkeys was
+found outside the town nibbling at manioc-leaves, but the other animal
+and the coil of wire were never found.
+
+Among my visitors this first day at Bagamoyo was Ali bin Salim, a
+brother of the famous Sayd bin Salim, formerly Ras Kafilah to Burton
+and Speke, and subsequently to Speke and Grant. His salaams were very
+profuse, and moreover, his brother was to be my agent in Unyamwezi, so
+that I did not hesitate to accept his offer of assistance. But, alas,
+for my white face and too trustful nature! this Ali bin Salim turned out
+to be a snake in the grass, a very sore thorn in my side. I was invited
+to his comfortable house to partake of coffee. I went there: the coffee
+was good though sugarless, his promises were many, but they proved
+valueless. Said he to me, "I am your friend; I wish to serve you., what
+can I do for you?" Replied I, "I am obliged to you, I need a good friend
+who, knowing the language and Customs of the Wanyamwezi, can procure me
+the pagazis I need and send me off quickly. Your brother is acquainted
+with the Wasungu (white men), and knows that what they promise they make
+good. Get me a hundred and forty pagazis and I will pay you your price."
+With unctuous courtesy, the reptile I was now warmly nourishing; said,
+"I do not want anything from you, my friend, for such a slight service,
+rest content and quiet; you shall not stop here fifteen days. To-morrow
+morning I will come and overhaul your bales to see what is needed." I
+bade him good morning, elated with the happy thought that I was soon to
+tread the Unyanyembe road.
+
+The reader must be made acquainted with two good and sufficient reasons
+why I was to devote all my energy to lead the Expedition as quickly as
+possible from Bagamoyo.
+
+First, I wished to reach Ujiji before the news reached Livingstone that
+I was in search of him, for my impression of him was that he was a man
+who would try to put as much distance as possible between us, rather
+than make an effort to shorten it, and I should have my long journey for
+nothing.
+
+Second, the Masika, or rainy season, would soon be on me, which, if it
+caught me at Bagamoyo, would prevent my departure until it was over,
+which meant a delay of forty days, and exaggerated as the rains were by
+all men with whom I came in contact, it rained every day for forty days
+without intermission. This I knew was a thing to dread; for I had my
+memory stored with all kinds of rainy unpleasantnesses. For instance,
+there was the rain of Virginia and its concomitant horrors--wetness,
+mildew, agues, rheumatics, and such like; then there were the English
+rains, a miserable drizzle causing the blue devils; then the rainy
+season of Abyssinia with the flood-gates of the firmament opened, and
+an universal down-pour of rain, enough to submerge half a continent in
+a few hours; lastly, there was the pelting monsoon of India, a steady
+shut-in-house kind of rain. To which of these rains should I compare
+this dreadful Masika of East Africa? Did not Burton write much about
+black mud in Uzaramo? Well, a country whose surface soil is called black
+mud in fine weather, what can it be called when forty days' rain beat on
+it, and feet of pagazis and donkeys make paste of it? These were natural
+reflections, induced by the circumstances of the hour, and I found
+myself much exercised in mind in consequence.
+
+Ali bin Salim, true to his promise, visited my camp on the morrow, with
+a very important air, and after looking at the pile of cloth bales,
+informed me that I must have them covered with mat-bags. He said he
+would send a man to have them measured, but he enjoined me not to make
+any bargain for the bags, as he would make it all right.
+
+While awaiting with commendable patience the 140 pagazis promised by
+Ali bin Salim we were all employed upon everything that thought could
+suggest needful for crossing the sickly maritime region, so that we
+might make the transit before the terrible fever could unnerve us,
+and make us joyless. A short experience at Bagamoya showed us what we
+lacked, what was superfluous, and what was necessary. We were visited
+one night by a squall, accompanied by furious rain. I had $1,500 worth
+of pagazi cloth in my tent. In the morning I looked and lo! the drilling
+had let in rain like a sieve, and every yard of cloth was wet. It
+occupied two days afterwards to dry the cloths, and fold them again. The
+drill-tent was condemned, and a No. 5 hemp-canvas tent at onto prepared.
+After which I felt convinced that my cloth bales, and one year's
+ammunition, were safe, and that I could defy the Masika.
+
+In the hurry of departure from Zanzibar, and in my ignorance of how
+bales should be made, I had submitted to the better judgment and ripe
+experience of one Jetta, a commission merchant, to prepare my bales for
+carriage. Jetta did not weigh the bales as he made them up, but piled
+the Merikani, Kaniki, Barsati, Jamdani, Joho, Ismahili, in alternate
+layers, and roped the same into bales. One or two pagazis came to my
+camp and began to chaffer; they wished to see the bales first, before
+they would make a final bargain. They tried to raise them up--ugh! ugh!
+it was of no use, and withdrew. A fine Salter's spring balance was hung
+up, and a bale suspended to the hook; the finger indicated 105 lbs. or
+3 frasilah, which was just 35 lbs. or one frasilah overweight. Upon
+putting all the bales to this test, I perceived that Jetta's guess-work,
+with all his experience, had caused considerable trouble to me.
+
+The soldiers were set to work to reopen and repack, which latter task
+is performed in the following manner:--We cut a doti, or four yards
+of Merikani, ordinarily sold at Zanzibar for $2.75 the piece of thirty
+yards, and spread out. We take a piece or bolt of good Merikani, and
+instead of the double fold given it by the Nashua and Salem mills, we
+fold it into three parts, by which the folds have a breadth of a foot;
+this piece forms the first layer, and will weigh nine pounds; the second
+layer consists of six pieces of Kaniki, a blue stuff similar to the
+blouse stuff of France, and the blue jeans of America, though much
+lighter; the third layer is formed of the second piece of Merikani, the
+fourth of six more pieces of Kaniki, the fifth of Merikani, the sixth
+of Kaniki as before, and the seventh and last of Merikani. We have thus
+four pieces of Merikani, which weigh 36 lbs., and 18 pieces of Kaniki
+weighing also 36 lbs., making a total of 72 lbs., or a little more than
+two frasilahs; the cloth is then folded singly over these layers, each
+corner tied to another. A bundle of coir-rope is then brought, and two
+men, provided with a wooden mallet for beating and pressing the bale,
+proceed to tie it up with as much nicety as sailors serve down rigging.
+
+When complete, a bale is a solid mass three feet and a half long, a
+foot deep, and a foot wide. Of these bales I had to convey eighty-two to
+Unyanyembe, forty of which consisted solely of the Merikani and Kaniki.
+The other forty-two contained the Merikani and coloured cloths, which
+latter were to serve as honga or tribute cloths, and to engage another
+set of pagazis from Unyanyembe to Ujiji, and from Ujiji to the regions
+beyond.
+
+The fifteenth day asked of me by Ali bin Salim for the procuring of the
+pagazis passed by, and there was not the ghost of a pagazi in my camp.
+I sent Mabruki the Bullheaded to Ali bin Salim, to convey my salaams and
+express a hope that he had kept his word. In half an hour's time Mabruki
+returned with the reply of the Arab, that in a few days he would be able
+to collect them all; but, added Mabruki, slyly, "Bana, I don't believe
+him. He said aloud to himself, in my hearing, 'Why should I get the
+Musungu pagazis? Seyd Burghash did not send a letter to me, but to the
+Jemadar. Why should I trouble myself about him? Let Seyd Burghash write
+me a letter to that purpose, and I will procure them within two days."'
+
+To my mind this was a time for action: Ali bin Salim should see that it
+was ill trifling with a white man in earnest to start. I rode down to
+his house to ask him what he meant.
+
+His reply was, Mabruki had told a lie as black as his face. He had never
+said anything approaching to such a thing. He was willing to become my
+slave--to become a pagazi himself. But here I stopped the voluble Ali,
+and informed him that I could not think of employing him in the capacity
+of a pagazi, neither could I find it in my heart to trouble Seyd
+Burghash to write a direct letter to him, or to require of a man who
+had deceived me once, as Ali bin Salim had, any service of any nature
+whatsoever. It would be better, therefore, if Ali bin Salim would stay
+away from my camp, and not enter it either in person or by proxy.
+
+I had lost fifteen days, for Jemadar Sadur, at Kaole, had never stirred
+from his fortified house in that village in my service, save to pay a
+visit, after the receipt of the Sultan's letter. Naranji, custom-house
+agent at Kaoie, solely under the thumb of the great Ludha Damji, had
+not responded to Ludha's worded request that he would procure pagazis,
+except with winks, nods, and promises, and it is but just stated how I
+fared at the hands of Ali bin Salim. In this extremity I remembered the
+promise made to me by the great merchant of Zanzibar--Tarya Topan--a
+Mohammedan Hindi--that he would furnish me with a letter to a young man
+named Soor Hadji Palloo, who was said to be the best man in Bagamoyo to
+procure a supply of pagazis.
+
+I despatched my Arab interpreter by a dhow to Zanzibar, with a very
+earnest request to Capt. Webb that he would procure from Tarya Topan the
+introductory letter so long delayed. It was the last card in my hand.
+
+On the third day the Arab returned, bringing with him not only the
+letter to Soor Hadji Palloo, but an abundance of good things from
+the ever-hospitable house of Mr. Webb. In a very short time after the
+receipt of his letter, the eminent young man Soor Hadji Palloo came to
+visit me, and informed me he had been requested by Tarya Topan to hire
+for me one hundred and forty pagazis to Unyanyembe in the shortest time
+possible. This he said would be very expensive, for there were scores
+of Arabs and Wasawabili merchants on the look out for every caravan that
+came in from the interior, and they paid 20 doti, or 80 yards of cloth,
+to each pagazi. Not willing or able to pay more, many of these merchants
+had been waiting as long as six months before they could get their
+quota. "If you," continued he, "desire to depart quickly, you must pay
+from 25 to 40 doti, and I can send you off before one month is ended."
+In reply, I said, "Here are my cloths for pagazis to the amount of
+$1,750, or 3,500 doti, sufficient to give one hundred and forty men 25
+doti each. The most I am willing to pay is 25 doti: send one hundred and
+forty pagazis to Unyanyembe with my cloth and wire, and I will make
+your heart glad with the richest present you have ever received." With a
+refreshing naivete, the "young man" said he did not want any present,
+he would get me my quota of pagazis, and then I could tell the "Wasungu"
+what a good "young man" he was, and consequently the benefit he would
+receive would be an increase of business. He closed his reply with the
+astounding remark that he had ten pagazis at his house already, and if I
+would be good enough to have four bales of cloth, two bags of beads,
+and twenty coils of wire carried to his house, the pagazis could leave
+Bagamoyo the next day, under charge of three soldiers.
+
+"For," he remarked, "it is much better and cheaper to send many small
+caravans than one large one. Large caravans invite attack, or are
+delayed by avaricious chiefs upon the most trivial pretexts, while small
+ones pass by without notice."
+
+The bales and the beads were duly carried to Soor Hadji Palloo's house,
+and the day passed with me in mentally congratulating myself upon my
+good fortune, in complimenting the young Hindi's talents for business,
+the greatness and influence of Tarya Topan, and the goodness of Mr.
+Webb in thus hastening my departure from Bagamoyo. I mentally vowed a
+handsome present, and a great puff in my book, to Soor Hadji Palloo, and
+it was with a glad heart that I prepared these soldiers for their march
+to Unyayembe.
+
+The task of preparing the first caravan for the Unyanyembe road informed
+me upon several things that have escaped the notice of my predecessors
+in East Africa, a timely knowledge of which would have been of infinite
+service to me at Zanzibar, in the purchase and selection of sufficient
+and proper cloth.
+
+The setting out of the first caravan enlightened me also on the subject
+of honga, or tribute. Tribute had to be packed by itself, all of
+choice cloth; for the chiefs, besides being avaricious, are also very
+fastidious. They will not accept the flimsy cloth of the pagazi, but
+a royal and exceedingly high-priced dabwani, Ismahili, Rehani, or a
+Sohari, or dotis of crimson broad cloth. The tribute for the first
+caravan cost $25. Having more than one hundred and forty pagazis to
+despatch, this tribute money would finally amount to $330 in gold, with
+a minimum of 25c. on each dollar. Ponder on this, O traveller! I lay
+bare these facts for your special instruction.
+
+But before my first caravan was destined to part company with me,
+Soor Hadji Palloo--worthy young man--and I were to come to a definite
+understanding about money matters. The morning appointed for departure
+Soor Hadji Palloo came to my hut and presented his bill, with all the
+gravity of innocence, for supplying the pagazis with twenty-five doti
+each as their hire to Unyanyembe, begging immediate payment in money.
+Words fail to express the astonishment I naturally felt, that this
+sharp-looking young man should so soon have forgotten the verbal
+contract entered into between him and myself the morning previous, which
+was to the effect that out of the three thousand doti stored in my tent,
+and bought expressly for pagazi hire, each and every man hired for me
+as carriers from Bagamoyo to Unyanyembe, should be paid out of the store
+there in my tent, when I asked if he remembered the contract, he replied
+in the affirmative: his reasons for breaking it so soon were, that he
+wished to sell his cloths, not mine, and for his cloths he should want
+money, not an exchange. But I gave him to comprehend that as he was
+procuring pagazis for me, he was to pay my pagazis with my cloths; that
+all the money I expected to pay him, should be just such a sum I thought
+adequate for his trouble as my agent, and that only on those terms
+should he act for me in this or any other matter, and that the "Musungu"
+was not accustomed to eat his words.
+
+The preceding paragraph embodies many more words than are contained
+in it. It embodies a dialogue of an hour, an angry altercation of
+half-an-hour's duration, a vow taken on the part of Soor Hadji Palloo,
+that if I did not take his cloths he should not touch my business, many
+tears, entreaties, woeful penitence, and much else, all of which were
+responded to with, "Do as I want you to do, or do nothing." Finally came
+relief, and a happy ending. Soor Hadji Palloo went away with a bright
+face, taking with him the three soldiers' posho (food), and honga
+(tribute) for the caravan. Well for me that it ended so, and that
+subsequent quarrels of a similar nature terminated so peaceably,
+otherwise I doubt whether my departure from Bagamoyo would have happened
+so early as it did. While I am on this theme, and as it really engrossed
+every moment of my time at Bagamoyo, I may as well be more explicit
+regarding Boor Hadji Palloo and his connection with my business.
+
+Boor Hadji Palloo was a smart young man of business, energetic, quick at
+mental calculation, and seemed to be born for a successful salesman. His
+eyes were never idle; they wandered over every part of my person, over
+the tent, the bed, the guns, the clothes, and having swung clear round,
+began the silent circle over again. His fingers were never at rest, they
+had a fidgety, nervous action at their tips, constantly in the act of
+feeling something; while in the act of talking to me, he would lean over
+and feel the texture of the cloth of my trousers, my coat, or my shoes
+or socks: then he would feel his own light jamdani shirt or dabwain
+loin-cloth, until his eyes casually resting upon a novelty, his body
+would lean forward, and his arm was stretched out with the willing
+fingers. His jaws also were in perpetual motion, caused by vile habits
+he had acquired of chewing betel-nut and lime, and sometimes tobacco and
+lime. They gave out a sound similar to that of a young shoat, in the
+act of sucking. He was a pious Mohammedan, and observed the external
+courtesies and ceremonies of the true believers. He would affably greet
+me, take off his shoes, enter my tent protesting he was not fit to sit
+in my presence, and after being seated, would begin his ever-crooked
+errand. Of honesty, literal and practical honesty, this youth knew
+nothing; to the pure truth he was an utter stranger; the falsehoods he
+had uttered during his short life seemed already to have quenched the
+bold gaze of innocence from his eyes, to have banished the colour of
+truthfulness from his features, to have transformed him--yet a stripling
+of twenty--into a most accomplished rascal, and consummate expert in
+dishonesty.
+
+During the six weeks I encamped at Bagamoyo, waiting for my quota of
+men, this lad of twenty gave me very much trouble. He was found out half
+a dozen times a day in dishonesty, yet was in no way abashed by it. He
+would send in his account of the cloths supplied to the pagazis, stating
+them to be 25 paid to each; on sending a man to inquire I would find the
+greatest number to have been 20, and the smallest 12. Soor Hadji Palloo
+described the cloths to be of first-class quality, Ulyah cloths, worth
+in the market four times more than the ordinary quality given to the
+pagazis, yet a personal examination would prove them to be the flimsiest
+goods sold, such as American sheeting 2 1/2 feet broad, and worth $2.75
+per 30 yards a piece at Zanzibar, or the most inferior Kaniki, which is
+generally sold at $9 per score. He would personally come to my camp
+and demand 40 lbs. of Sami-Sami, Merikani, and Bubu beads for posho,
+or caravan rations; an inspection of their store before departure from
+their first camp from Bagamoyo would show a deficiency ranging from 5
+to 30 lbs. Moreover, he cheated in cash-money, such as demanding $4 for
+crossing the Kingani Ferry for every ten pagazis, when the fare was $2
+for the same number; and an unconscionable number of pice (copper coins
+equal in value to 3/4 of a cent) were required for posho. It was every
+day for four weeks that this system of roguery was carried out. Each day
+conceived a dozen new schemes; every instant of his time he seemed to
+be devising how to plunder, until I was fairly at my wits' end how to
+thwart him. Exposure before a crowd of his fellows brought no blush of
+shame to his sallow cheeks; he would listen with a mere shrug of the
+shoulders and that was all, which I might interpret any way it pleased
+me. A threat to reduce his present had no effect; a bird in the hand was
+certainly worth two in the bush for him, so ten dollars' worth of goods
+stolen and in his actual possession was of more intrinsic value than the
+promise of $20 in a few days, though it was that of a white man.
+
+Readers will of course ask themselves why I did not, after the first
+discovery of these shameless proceedings, close my business with him,
+to which I make reply, that I could not do without him unless his equal
+were forthcoming, that I never felt so thoroughly dependent on any one
+man as I did upon him; without his or his duplicate's aid, I must have
+stayed at Bagamoyo at least six months, at the end of which time the
+Expedition would have become valueless, the rumour of it having been
+blown abroad to the four winds. It was immediate departure that was
+essential to my success--departure from Bagamoyo--after which it might
+be possible for me to control my own future in a great measure.
+
+These troubles were the greatest that I could at this time imagine.
+I have already stated that I had $1,750 worth of pagazis' clothes,
+or 3,500 doti, stored in my tent, and above what my bales contained.
+Calculating one hundred and forty pagazis at 25 doti each, I supposed I
+had enough, yet, though I had been trying to teach the young Hindi that
+the Musungu was not a fool, nor blind to his pilfering tricks, though
+the 3,500 doti were all spent; though I had only obtained one hundred
+and thirty pagazis at 25 doti each, which in the aggregate amounted to
+3,200 doti: Soor Hadji Palloo's bill was $1,400 cash extra. His plea was
+that he had furnished Ulyah clothes for Muhongo 240 doti, equal in value
+to 960 of my doti, that the money was spent in ferry pice, in presents
+to chiefs of caravans of tents, guns, red broad cloth, in presents to
+people on the Mrima (coast) to induce them to hunt up pagazis. Upon this
+exhibition of most ruthless cheating I waxed indignant, and declared to
+him that if he did not run over his bill and correct it, he should go
+without a pice.
+
+But before the bill could be put into proper shape, my words, threats,
+and promises falling heedlessly on a stony brain, a man, Kanjee by name,
+from the store of Tarya Topan, of Zanzibar, had to come over, when the
+bill was finally reduced to $738. Without any disrespect to Tarya Topan,
+I am unable to decide which is the most accomplished rascal, Kanjee,
+or young Soor Hadji Palloo; in the words of a white man who knows them
+both, "there is not the splitting of a straw between them." Kanjee is
+deep and sly, Soor Hadji Palloo is bold and incorrigible. But peace be
+to them both, may their shaven heads never be covered with the troublous
+crown I wore at Bagamoyo!
+
+My dear friendly reader, do not think, if I speak out my mind in this
+or in any other chapter upon matters seemingly trivial and unimportant,
+that seeming such they should be left unmentioned. Every tittle related
+is a fact, and to knew facts is to receive knowledge.
+
+How could I ever recite my experience to you if I did not enter upon
+these miserable details, which sorely distract the stranger upon his
+first arrival? Had I been a Government official, I had but wagged my
+finger and my quota of pagazis had been furnished me within a week; but
+as an individual arriving without the graces of official recognition,
+armed with no Government influence, I had to be patient, bide my time,
+and chew the cud of irritation quietly, but the bread I ate was not all
+sour, as this was.
+
+The white men, Farquhar and Shaw, were kept steadily at work upon
+water-proof tents of hemp canvas, for I perceived, by the premonitory
+showers of rain that marked the approach of the Masika that an ordinary
+tent of light cloth would subject myself to damp and my goods to mildew,
+and while there was time to rectify all errors that had crept into my
+plans through ignorance or over haste, I thought it was not wise to
+permit things to rectify themselves. Now that I have returned uninjured
+in health, though I have suffered the attacks of twenty-three fevers
+within the short space of thirteen months; I must confess I owe my life,
+first, to the mercy of God; secondly, to the enthusiasm for my work,
+which animated me from the beginning to the end; thirdly, to having
+never ruined my constitution by indulgence in vice and intemperance;
+fourthly, to the energy of my nature; fifthly, to a native hopefulness
+which never died; and, sixthly, to having furnished myself with a
+capacious water and damp proof canvas house. And here, if my experience
+may be of value, I would suggest that travellers, instead of submitting
+their better judgment to the caprices of a tent-maker, who will
+endeavour to pass off a handsomely made fabric of his own, which is
+unsuited to all climes, to use his own judgment, and get the best and
+strongest that money will buy. In the end it will prove the cheapest,
+and perhaps be the means of saving his life.
+
+On one point I failed, and lest new and young travellers fall into the
+same error which marred much of my enjoyment, this paragraph is written.
+One must be extremely careful in his choice of weapons, whether for
+sport or defence. A traveller should have at least three different
+kinds of guns. One should be a fowling-piece, the second should be
+a double-barrelled rifle, No. 10 or 12, the third should be a
+magazine-rifle, for defence. For the fowling-piece I would suggest No.
+12 bore, with barrels at least four feet in length. For the rifle for
+larger game, I would point out, with due deference to old sportsmen, of
+course, that the best guns for African game are the English Lancaster
+and Reilly rifles; and for a fighting weapon, I maintain that the
+best yet invented is the American Winchester repeating rifle, or the
+"sixteen, shooter" as it is called, supplied with the London Eley's
+ammunition. If I suggest as a fighting weapon the American Winchester, I
+do not mean that the traveller need take it for the purpose of offence,
+but as the beat means of efficient defence, to save his own life against
+African banditti, when attacked, a thing likely to happen any time.
+
+I met a young man soon after returning from the interior, who declared
+his conviction that the "Express," rifle was the most perfect weapon
+ever invented to destroy African game. Very possibly the young man may
+be right, and that the "Express" rifle is all he declares it to be, but
+he had never practised with it against African game, and as I had
+never tried it, I could not combat his assertion: but I could relate
+my experiences with weapons, having all the penetrating powers of the
+"Express," and could inform him that though the bullets penetrated
+through the animals, they almost always failed to bring down the game at
+the first fire. On the other hand, I could inform him, that during
+the time I travelled with Dr. Livingstone the Doctor lent me his heavy
+Reilly rifle with which I seldom failed to bring an animal or two home
+to the camp, and that I found the Fraser shell answer all purposes for
+which it was intended. The feats related by Capt. Speke and Sir Samuel
+Baker are no longer matter of wonderment to the young sportsman, when
+he has a Lancaster or a Reilly in his hand. After very few trials he can
+imitate them, if not excel their Leeds, provided he has a steady hand.
+And it is to forward this end that this paragraph is written. African
+game require "bone-crushers;" for any ordinary carbine possesses
+sufficient penetrative qualities, yet has not he disabling qualities
+which a gun must possess to be useful in the hands of an African
+explorer.
+
+I had not been long at Bagamoyo before I went over to Mussoudi's
+camp, to visit the "Livingstone caravan" which the British Consul
+had despatched on the first day of November, 1870, to the relief of
+Livingstone. The number of packages was thirty-five, which required as
+many men to convey them to Unyanyembe. The men chosen to escort this
+caravan were composed of Johannese and Wahiyow, seven in number. Out of
+the seven, four were slaves. They lived in clover here--thoughtless of
+the errand they had been sent upon, and careless of the consequences.
+What these men were doing at Bagamoyo all this time I never could
+conceive, except indulging their own vicious propensities. It would
+be nonsense to say there were no pagazis; because I know there were
+at least fifteen caravans which had started for the interior since the
+Ramadan (December 15th, 1870). Yet Livingstone's caravan had arrived at
+this little town of Bagamoyo November 2nd, and here it had been lying
+until the 10th February, in all, 100 days, for lack of the limited
+number of thirty-five pagazis, a number that might be procured within
+two days through consular influence.
+
+Bagamoyo has a most enjoyable climate. It is far preferable in every
+sense to that of Zanzibar. We were able to sleep in the open air, and
+rose refreshed and healthy each morning, to enjoy our matutinal bath in
+the sea; and by the time the sun had risen we were engaged in various
+preparations for our departure for the interior. Our days were enlivened
+by visits from the Arabs who were also bound for Unyanyembe; by comical
+scenes in the camp; sometimes by court-martials held on the refractory;
+by a boxing-match between Farquhar and Shaw, necessitating my prudent
+interference when they waxed too wroth; by a hunting excursion now and
+then to the Kingani plain and river; by social conversation with the
+old Jemadar and his band of Baluches, who were never tired of warning me
+that the Masika was at hand, and of advising me that my best course was
+to hurry on before the season for travelling expired.
+
+Among the employees with the Expedition were two Hindi and two Goanese.
+They had conceived the idea that the African interior was an El Dorado,
+the ground of which was strewn over with ivory tusks, and they had
+clubbed together; while their imaginations were thus heated, to embark
+in a little enterprise of their own. Their names were Jako, Abdul Kader,
+Bunder Salaam, and Aranselar; Jako engaged in my service, as carpenter
+and general help; Abdul Kader as a tailor, Bunder Salaam as cook, and
+Aranselar as chief butler.
+
+But Aranselar, with an intuitive eye, foresaw that I was likely to prove
+a vigorous employer, and while there was yet time he devoted most of
+it to conceive how it were possible to withdraw from the engagement. He
+received permission upon asking for it to go to Zanzibar to visit his
+friends. Two days afterwards I was informed he had blown his right eye
+out, and received a medical confirmation of the fact, and note of the
+extent of the injury, from Dr. Christie, the physician to His Highness
+Seyd Burghash. His compatriots I imagined were about planning the same
+thing, but a peremptory command to abstain from such folly, issued after
+they had received their advance-pay, sufficed to check any sinister
+designs they may have formed.
+
+A groom was caught stealing from the bales, one night, and the chase
+after him into the country until he vanished out of sight into the
+jungle, was one of the most agreeable diversions which occurred to wear
+away the interval employed in preparing for the march.
+
+I had now despatched four caravans into the interior, and the fifth,
+which was to carry the boats and boxes, personal luggage, and a few
+cloth and bead loads, was ready to be led by myself. The following is
+the order of departure of the caravans.
+
+1871. Feb. 6.--Expedition arrived at Bagamoyo.
+
+1871. Feb. 18.--First caravan departs with twenty-four pagazis and three
+soldiers.
+
+1871. Feb. 21.--Second caravan departs with twenty-eight pagazis, two
+chiefs, and two soldiers.
+
+1871. Feb. 25.--Third caravan departs with twenty-two pagazis, ten
+donkeys, one white man, one cook, and three soldiers.
+
+1871. March. 11.--Fourth caravan departs with fifty-five pagazis, two
+chiefs, and three soldiers.
+
+1871. March. 21.--Fifth caravan departs with twenty-eight pagazis,
+twelve soldiers, two white men, one tailor, one cook, one interpreter,
+one gun-bearer, seventeen asses, two horses, and one dog.
+
+Total number, inclusive of all souls, comprised in caravans connected
+with the "New York Herald' Expedition," 192.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V. -- THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA.
+
+
+     Leaving Bagamoyo for the interior.--Constructing a Bridge.--
+     Our first troubles.--Shooting Hippopotami.--A first view of
+     the Game Land.--Anticipating trouble with the Wagogo.--The
+     dreadful poison--flies.--Unlucky adventures while hunting.--
+     The cunning chief of Kingaru.--Sudden death of my two
+     horses.--A terrible experience.--The city of the "Lion
+     Lord."
+
+
+On the 21st of March, exactly seventy-three days after my arrival at
+Zanzibar, the fifth caravan, led by myself, left the town of Bagamoyo
+for our first journey westward, with "Forward!" for its mot du guet. As
+the kirangozi unrolled the American flag, and put himself at the head of
+the caravan, and the pagazis, animals, soldiers, and idlers were lined
+for the march, we bade a long farewell to the dolce far niente of
+civilised life, to the blue ocean, and to its open road to home, to the
+hundreds of dusky spectators who were there to celebrate our departure
+with repeated salvoes of musketry.
+
+Our caravan is composed of twenty-eight pagazis, including the
+kirangozi, or guide; twelve soldiers under Capt. Mbarak Bombay, in
+charge of seventeen donkeys and their loads; Selim, my interpreter, in
+charge of the donkey and cart and its load; one cook and sub, who is
+also to be tailor and ready hand for all, and leads the grey horse;
+Shaw, once mate of a ship, now transformed into rearguard and overseer
+for the caravan, who is mounted on a good riding-donkey, and wearing a
+canoe-like tepee and sea-boots; and lastly, on, the splendid bay horse
+presented to me by Mr. Goodhue, myself, called Bana Mkuba, "the big
+master," by my people--the vanguard, the reporter, the thinker, and
+leader of the Expedition.
+
+Altogether the Expedition numbers on the day of departure three white
+men, twenty-three soldiers, four supernumeraries, four chiefs, and one
+hundred and fifty-three pagazis, twenty-seven donkeys, and one cart,
+conveying cloth, beads, and wire, boat-fixings, tents, cooking utensils
+and dishes, medicine, powder, small shot, musket-balls, and metallic
+cartridges; instruments and small necessaries, such as soap, sugar, tea,
+coffee, Liebig's extract of meat, pemmican, candles, &c., which make
+a total of 153 loads. The weapons of defence which the Expedition
+possesses consist of one double-barrel breech-loading gun, smooth bore;
+one American Winchester rifle, or "sixteen-shooter;" one Henry rifle,
+or "sixteen-shooter;" two Starr's breech-loaders, one Jocelyn
+breech-loader, one elephant rifle, carrying balls eight to the pound;
+two breech-loading revolvers, twenty-four muskets (flint locks), six
+single-barrelled pistols, one battle-axe, two swords, two daggers
+(Persian kummers, purchased at Shiraz by myself), one boar-spear,
+two American axes 4 lbs. each, twenty-four hatchets, and twenty-four
+butcher-knives.
+
+
+The Expedition has been fitted with care; whatever it needed was not
+stinted; everything was provided. Nothing was done too hurriedly, yet
+everything was purchased, manufactured, collected, and compounded with
+the utmost despatch consistent with efficiency and means. Should it fail
+of success in its errand of rapid transit to Ujiji and back, it must
+simply happen from an accident which could not be controlled. So much
+for the _personnel_ of the Expedition and its purpose, until its _point
+de mire_ be reached.
+
+We left Bagamoyo the attraction of all the curious, with much eclat, and
+defiled up a narrow lane shaded almost to twilight by the dense umbrage
+of two parallel hedges of mimosas. We were all in the highest spirits.
+The soldiers sang, the kirangozi lifted his voice into a loud bellowing
+note, and fluttered the American flag, which told all on-lookers, "Lo, a
+Musungu's caravan!" and my heart, I thought, palpitated much too quickly
+for the sober face of a leader. But I could not check it; the enthusiasm
+of youth still clung to me--despite my travels; my pulses bounded with
+the full glow of staple health; behind me were the troubles which had
+harassed me for over two months. With that dishonest son of a Hindi,
+Soor Hadji Palloo, I had said my last word; of the blatant rabble, of
+Arabs, Banyans, and Baluches I had taken my last look; with the Jesuits
+of the French Mission I had exchanged farewells, and before me beamed
+the sun of promise as he sped towards the Occident. Loveliness glowed
+around me. I saw fertile fields, riant vegetation, strange trees--I
+heard the cry of cricket and pee-wit, and sibilant sound of many
+insects, all of which seemed to tell me, "At last you are started." What
+could I do but lift my face toward the pure-glowing sky, and cry, "God
+be thanked!"
+
+The first camp, Shamba Gonera, we arrived at in 1 hour 30 minutes, equal
+to 3 1/4 miles. This first, or "little journey," was performed very
+well, "considering," as the Irishman says. The boy Selim upset the cart
+not more than three times. Zaidi, the soldier, only once let his donkey,
+which carried one bag of my clothes and a box of ammunition, lie in
+a puddle of black water. The clothes have to be re-washed; the
+ammunition-box, thanks to my provision, was waterproof. Kamna perhaps
+knew the art of donkey-driving, but, overjoyful at the departure, had
+sung himself into oblivion of the difficulties with which an animal of
+the pure asinine breed has naturally to contend against, such as not
+knowing the right road, and inability to resist the temptation of
+straying into the depths of a manioc field; and the donkey, ignorant of
+the custom in vogue amongst ass-drivers of flourishing sticks before
+an animal's nose, and misunderstanding the direction in which he was
+required to go, ran off at full speed along an opposite road, until his
+pack got unbalanced, and he was fain to come to the earth. But these
+incidents were trivial, of no importance, and natural to the first
+"little journey" in East Africa.
+
+The soldiers' point of character leaked out just a little. Bombay turned
+out to be honest and trusty, but slightly disposed to be dilatory.
+Uledi did more talking than work; while the runaway Ferajji and the
+useless-handed Mabruki Burton turned out to be true men and staunch,
+carrying loads the sight of which would have caused the strong-limbed
+hamals of Stamboul to sigh.
+
+The saddles were excellent, surpassing expectation. The strong hemp
+canvas bore its one hundred and fifty-pounds' burden with the strength
+of bull hide, and the loading and unloading of miscellaneous baggage
+was performed with systematic despatch. In brief, there was nothing to
+regret--the success of the journey proved our departure to be anything
+but premature.
+
+The next three days were employed in putting the finishing touches to
+our preparations for the long land journey and our precautions against
+the Masika, which was now ominously near, and in settling accounts.
+
+Shamba Gonera means Gonera's Field. Gonera is a wealthy Indian widow,
+well disposed towards the Wasungu (whites). She exports much cloth,
+beads, and wire into the far interior, and imports in return much ivory.
+Her house is after the model of the town houses, with long sloping roof
+and projecting eaves, affording a cool shade, under which the pagazis
+love to loiter. On its southern and eastern side stretch the cultivated
+fields which supply Bagamoyo with the staple grain, matama, of East
+Africa; on the left grow Indian corn, and muhogo, a yam-like root
+of whitish colour, called by some manioc; when dry, it is ground and
+compounded into cakes similar to army slapjacks. On the north, just
+behind the house, winds a black quagmire, a sinuous hollow, which in
+its deepest parts always contains water--the muddy home of the
+brake-and-rush-loving "kiboko" or hippopotamus. Its banks, crowded
+with dwarf fan-palm, tall water-reeds, acacias, and tiger-grass, afford
+shelter to numerous aquatic birds, pelicans, &c. After following a
+course north-easterly, it conflows with the Kingani, which, at distance
+of four miles from Gonera's country-house; bends eastward into the sea.
+To the west, after a mile of cultivation, fall and recede in succession
+the sea-beach of old in lengthy parallel waves, overgrown densely
+with forest grass and marsh reeds. On the spines of these land-swells
+flourish ebony, calabash, and mango.
+
+"Sofari--sofari leo! Pakia, pakia!"--"A journey--a journey to day! Set
+out!--set out!" rang the cheery voice of the kirangozi, echoed by that
+of my servant Selim, on the morning of the fourth day, which was fixed
+for our departure in earnest. As I hurried my men to their work, and
+lent a hand with energy to drop the tents, I mentally resolved that,
+if my caravans a should give me clear space, Unyanyembe should be our
+resting-place before three months expired. By 6 A.M. our early breakfast
+was despatched, and the donkeys and pagazis were defiling from Camp
+Gonera. Even at this early hour, and in this country place, there was
+quite a collection of curious natives, to whom we gave the parting
+"Kwaheri" with sincerity. My bay horse was found to be invaluable for
+the service of a quarter-master of a transport-train; for to such was I
+compelled to compare myself. I could stay behind until the last donkey
+had quitted the camp, and, by a few minutes' gallop, I could put myself
+at the head, leaving Shaw to bring up the rear.
+
+The road was a mere footpath, and led over a soil which, though
+sandy, was of surprising fertility, producing grain and vegetables
+a hundredfold, the sowing and planting of which was done in the most
+unskilful manner. In their fields, at heedless labor, were men and women
+in the scantiest costumes, compared to which Adam and Eve, in their
+fig-tree apparel, must have been _en grande tenue_. We passed them with
+serious faces, while they laughed and giggled, and pointed their index
+fingers at this and that, which to them seemed so strange and bizarre.
+
+In about half an hour we had left the tall matama and fields of
+water-melons, cucumbers, and manioc; and, crossing a reedy slough,
+were in an open forest of ebony and calabash. In its depths are deer in
+plentiful numbers, and at night it is visited by the hippopotami of the
+Kingani for the sake of its grass. In another hour we had emerged from
+the woods, and were looking down upon the broad valley of the Kingani,
+and a scene presented itself so utterly different from what my foolish
+imagination had drawn, that I felt quite relieved by the pleasing
+disappointment. Here was a valley stretching four miles east and west,
+and about eight miles north and south, left with the richest soil to its
+own wild growth of grass--which in civilization would have been a most
+valuable meadow for the rearing of cattle--invested as it was by dense
+forests, darkening the horizon at all points of the compass, and folded
+in by tree-clad ridges.
+
+At the sound of our caravan the red antelope bounded away to our right
+and the left, and frogs hushed their croak. The sun shone hot, and
+while traversing the valley we experienced a little of its real African
+fervour. About half way across we came to a sluice of stagnant water
+which, directly in the road of the caravan, had settled down into an
+oozy pond. The pagazis crossed a hastily-constructed bridge, thrown up
+a long time ago by some Washensi Samaritans. It was an extraordinary
+affair; rugged tree limbs resting on very unsteady forked piles, and it
+had evidently tested the patience of many a loaded Mnyamwezi, as it
+did those porters of our caravan. Our weaker animals were unloaded, the
+puddle between Bagamoyo and Genera having taught us prudence. But
+this did not occasion much delay; the men worked smartly under Shaw's
+supervision.
+
+The turbid Kingani, famous for its hippopotami, was reached in a short
+time, and we began to thread the jungle along its right bank until we
+were halted point-blank by a narrow sluice having an immeasurable depth
+of black mud. The difficulty presented by this was very grave, though
+its breadth was barely eight feet; the donkeys, and least of all the
+horses, could not be made to traverse two poles like our biped carriers,
+neither could they be driven into the sluice, where they would quickly
+founder. The only available way of crossing it in safety was by means
+of a bridge, to endure in this conservative land for generations as the
+handiwork of the Wasungu. So we set to work, there being no help for it,
+with American axes--the first of their kind the strokes of which ever
+rang in this part of the world--to build a bridge. Be sure it was made
+quickly, for where the civilized white is found, a difficulty must
+vanish. The bridge was composed of six stout trees thrown across, over
+these were laid crosswise fifteen pack saddles, covered again with a
+thick layer of grass. All the animals crossed it safely, and then for a
+third time that morning the process of wading was performed. The Kingani
+flowed northerly here, and our course lay down its right bank. A half
+mile in that direction through a jungle of giant reeds and extravagant
+climbers brought us to the ferry, where the animals had to be again
+unloaded--verily, I wished when I saw its deep muddy waters that I
+possessed the power of Moses with his magic rod, or what would have
+answered my purpose as well, Aladdin's ring, for then I could have found
+myself and party on the opposite side without further trouble; but not
+having either of these gifts I issued orders for an immediate crossing,
+for it was ill wishing sublime things before this most mundane prospect.
+
+Kingwere, the canoe paddler, espying us from his brake covert, on the
+opposite side, civilly responded to our halloos, and brought his huge
+hollowed tree skilfully over the whirling eddies of the river to where
+we stood waiting for him. While one party loaded the canoe with our
+goods, others got ready a long rape to fasten around the animals' necks,
+wherewith to haul them through the river to the other bank. After seeing
+the work properly commenced, I sat down on a condemned canoe to amuse
+myself with the hippopotami by peppering their thick skulls with my No.
+12 smooth-bore. The Winchester rifle (calibre 44), a present from the
+Hon. Edward Joy Morris--our minister at Constantinople--did no more than
+slightly tap them, causing about as much injury as a boy's sling; it was
+perfect in its accuracy of fire, for ten times in succession I struck
+the tops of their heads between the ears. One old fellow, with the look
+of a sage, was tapped close to the right ear by one of these bullets.
+Instead of submerging himself as others had done he coolly turned round
+his head as if to ask, "Why this waste of valuable cartridges on
+us?" The response to the mute inquiry of his sageship was an
+ounce-and-a-quarter bullet from the smooth-bore, which made him bellow
+with pain, and in a few moments he rose up again, tumbling in his death
+agonies. As his groans were so piteous, I refrained from a useless
+sacrifice of life, and left the amphibious horde in peace.
+
+A little knowledge concerning these uncouth inmates of the African
+waters was gained even during the few minutes we were delayed at the
+ferry. When undisturbed by foreign sounds, they congregate in shallow
+water on the sand bars, with the fore half of their bodies exposed
+to the warm sunshine, and are in appearance, when thus somnolently
+reposing, very like a herd of enormous swine. When startled by the noise
+of an intruder, they plunge hastily into the depths, lashing the waters
+into a yellowish foam, and scatter themselves below the surface, when
+presently the heads of a few reappear, snorting the water from their
+nostrils, to take a fresh breath and a cautious scrutiny around them;
+when thus, we see but their ears, forehead, eyes and nostrils, and as
+they hastily submerge again it requires a steady wrist and a quick hand
+to shoot them. I have heard several comparisons made of their appearance
+while floating in this manner: some Arabs told me before I had seen them
+that they looked like dead trees carried down the river; others, who in
+some country had seen hogs, thought they resembled them, but to my mind
+they look more like horses when swimming their curved necks and
+pointed ears, their wide eyes and expanded nostrils, favor greatly this
+comparison.
+
+At night they seek the shore, and wander several miles over the country,
+luxuriating among its rank grasses. To within four miles of the town
+of Bagamoyo (the Kingani is eight miles distant) their wide tracks are
+seen. Frequently, if not disturbed by the startling human voice, they
+make a raid on the rich corn-stalks of the native cultivators, and a
+dozen of them will in a few minutes make a frightful havoc in a large
+field of this plant. Consequently, we were not surprised, while delayed
+at the ferry, to hear the owners of the corn venting loud halloos, like
+the rosy-cheeked farmer boys in England when scaring the crows away from
+the young wheat.
+
+The caravan in the meanwhile had crossed safely--bales, baggage,
+donkeys, and men. I had thought to have camped on the bank, so as to
+amuse myself with shooting antelope, and also for the sake of procuring
+their meat, in order to save my goats, of which I had a number
+constituting my live stock of provisions; but, thanks to the awe and
+dread which my men entertained of the hippopotami, I was hurried on to
+the outpost of the Baluch garrison at Bagamoyo, a small village called
+Kikoka, distant four miles from the river.
+
+The western side of the river was a considerable improvement upon the
+eastern. The plain, slowly heaving upwards, as smoothly as the beach of
+a watering-place, for the distance of a mile, until it culminated in
+a gentle and rounded ridge, presented none of those difficulties which
+troubled us on the other side. There were none of those cataclysms
+of mire and sloughs of black mud and over-tall grasses, none of that
+miasmatic jungle with its noxious emissions; it was just such a scene
+as one may find before an English mansion--a noble expanse of lawn
+and sward, with boscage sufficient to agreeably diversify it. After
+traversing the open plain, the road led through a grove of young ebony
+trees, where guinea-fowls and a hartebeest were seen; it then wound,
+with all the characteristic eccentric curves of a goat-path, up and
+down a succession of land-waves crested by the dark green foliage of
+the mango, and the scantier and lighter-coloured leaves of the enormous
+calabash. The depressions were filled with jungle of more or less
+density, while here and there opened glades, shadowed even during noon
+by thin groves of towering trees. At our approach fled in terror flocks
+of green pigeons, jays, ibis, turtledoves, golden pheasants, quails and
+moorhens, with crows and hawks, while now and then a solitary pelican
+winged its way to the distance.
+
+Nor was this enlivening prospect without its pairs of antelope, and
+monkeys which hopped away like Australian kangaroos; these latter were
+of good size, with round bullet heads, white breasts, and long tails
+tufted at the end.
+
+We arrived at Kikoka by 5 P.M., having loaded and unloaded our pack
+animals four times, crossing one deep puddle, a mud sluice, and a river,
+and performed a journey of eleven miles.
+
+The settlement of Kikoka is a collection of straw huts; not built after
+any architectural style, but after a bastard form, invented by indolent
+settlers from the Mrima and Zanzibar for the purpose of excluding as
+much sunshine as possible from the eaves and interior. A sluice and some
+wells provide them with water, which though sweet is not particularly
+wholesome or appetizing, owing to the large quantities of decayed matter
+which is washed into it by the rains, and is then left to corrupt in it.
+A weak effort has been made to clear the neighbourhood for providing
+a place for cultivation, but to the dire task of wood-chopping and
+jungle-clearing the settlers prefer occupying an open glade, which they
+clear of grass, so as to be able to hoe up two or three inches of soil,
+into which they cast their seed, confident of return.
+
+The next day was a halt at Kikoka; the fourth caravan, consisting solely
+of Wanyamwezi, proving a sore obstacle to a rapid advance. Maganga, its
+chief, devised several methods of extorting more cloth and presents from
+me, he having cost already more than any three chiefs together; but his
+efforts were of no avail further than obtaining promises of reward if he
+would hurry on to Unyanyembe so that I might find my road clear.
+
+On the 2(7?)th, the Wanyamwezi having started, we broke camp soon after
+at 7 am. The country was of the same nature as that lying between
+the Kingani and Kikokaa park land, attractive and beautiful in every
+feature.
+
+I rode in advance to secure meat should a chance present itself, but
+not the shadow of vert or venison did I see. Ever in our
+front--westerly--rolled the land-waves, now rising, now subsiding,
+parallel one with the other, like a ploughed field many times magnified.
+Each ridge had its knot of jungle or its thin combing of heavily
+foliaged trees, until we arrived close to Rosako, our next halting
+place, when the monotonous wavure of the land underwent a change,
+breaking into independent hummocks clad with dense jungle. On one of
+these, veiled by an impenetrable jungle of thorny acacia, rested Rosako;
+girt round by its natural fortification, neighbouring another village
+to the north of it similarly protected. Between them sank a valley
+extremely fertile and bountiful in its productions, bisected by a small
+stream, which serves as a drain to the valley or low hills surrounding
+it.
+
+Rosako is the frontier village of Ukwere, while Kikoka is the
+north-western extremity of Uzaramo. We entered this village, and
+occupied its central portion with our tents and animals. A kitanda,
+or square light bedstead, without valance, fringe, or any superfluity
+whatever, but nevertheless quite as comfortable as with them, was
+brought to my tent for my use by the village chief. The animals were,
+immediately after being unloaded, driven out to feed, and the soldiers
+to a man set to work to pile the baggage up, lest the rain, which during
+the Masika season always appears imminent, might cause irreparable
+damage.
+
+Among other experiments which I was about to try in Africa was that of
+a good watch-dog on any unmannerly people who would insist upon coming
+into my tent at untimely hours and endangering valuables. Especially did
+I wish to try the effect of its bark on the mighty Wagogo, who, I was
+told by certain Arabs, would lift the door of the tent and enter whether
+you wished them or not; who would chuckle at the fear they inspired, and
+say to you, "Hi, hi, white man, I never saw the like of you before; are
+there many more like you? where do you come from?" Also would they take
+hold of your watch and ask you with a cheerful curiosity, "What is this
+for, white man?" to which you of course would reply that it was to tell
+you the hour and minute. But the Mgogo, proud of his prowess, and more
+unmannerly than a brute, would answer you with a snort of insult. I
+thought of a watch-dog, and procured a good one at Bombay not only as a
+faithful companion, but to threaten the heels of just such gentry.
+
+But soon after our arrival at Rosako it was found that the dog, whose
+name was "Omar," given him from his Turkish origin, was missing; he had
+strayed away from the soldiers during a rain-squall and had got lost.
+I despatched Mabruki Burton back to Kikoka to search for him. On the
+following morning, just as we were about to leave Rosako, the faithful
+fellow returned with the lost dog, having found him at Kikoka.
+
+Previous to our departure on the morning after this, Maganga, chief
+of the fourth caravan, brought me the unhappy report that three of his
+pagazis were sick, and he would like to have some "dowa"--medicine.
+Though not a doctor, or in any way connected with the profession, I had
+a well-supplied medicine chest--without which no traveller in Africa
+could live--for just such a contingency as was now present. On visiting
+Maganga's sick men, I found one suffering from inflammation of the
+lungs, another from the mukunguru (African intermittent). They all
+imagined themselves about to die, and called loudly for "Mama!" "Mama!"
+though they were all grown men. It was evident that the fourth caravan
+could not stir that day, so leaving word with Magauga to hurry after me
+as soon as possible, I issued orders for the march of my own.
+
+Excepting in the neighbourhood of the villages which we have passed
+there were no traces of cultivation. The country extending between the
+several stations is as much a wilderness as the desert of Sahara, though
+it possesses a far more pleasing aspect. Indeed, had the first man at
+the time of the Creation gazed at his world and perceived it of the
+beauty which belongs to this part of Africa, he would have had no cause
+of complaint. In the deep thickets, set like islets amid a sea of grassy
+verdure, he would have found shelter from the noonday heat, and a safe
+retirement for himself and spouse during the awesome darkness. In the
+morning he could have walked forth on the sloping sward, enjoyed its
+freshness, and performed his ablutions in one of the many small streams
+flowing at its foot. His garden of fruit-trees is all that is required;
+the noble forests, deep and cool, are round about him, and in their
+shade walk as many animals as one can desire. For days and days let a
+man walk in any direction, north, south, east, and west, and he will
+behold the same scene.
+
+Earnestly as I wished to hurry on to Unyanyembe, still a heart-felt
+anxiety about the arrival of my goods carried by the fourth caravan,
+served as a drag upon me and before my caravan had marched nine miles
+my anxiety had risen to the highest pitch, and caused me to order a camp
+there and then. The place selected for it was near a long straggling
+sluice, having an abundance of water during the rainy season, draining
+as it does two extensive slopes. No sooner had we pitched our camp,
+built a boma of thorny acacia, and other tree branches, by stacking them
+round our camp, and driven our animals to grass; than we were made aware
+of the formidable number and variety of the insect tribe, which for a
+time was another source of anxiety, until a diligent examination of the
+several species dispelled it.
+
+As it was a most interesting hunt which I instituted for the several
+specimens of the insects, I here append the record of it for what it is
+worth. My object in obtaining these specimens was to determine whether
+the genus _Glossina morsitans_ of the naturalist, or the tsetse
+(sometimes called setse) of Livingstone, Vardon, and Gumming, said to
+be deadly to horses, was amongst them. Up to this date I had been nearly
+two months in East Africa, and had as yet seen no tsetse; and my horses,
+instead of becoming emaciated--for such is one of the symptoms of a
+tsetse bite--had considerably improved in condition. There were three
+different species of flies which sought shelter in my tent, which,
+unitedly, kept up a continual chorus of sounds--one performed the basso
+profondo, another a tenor, and the third a weak contralto. The first
+emanated from a voracious and fierce fly, an inch long, having a ventral
+capacity for blood quite astonishing.
+
+This larger fly was the one chosen for the first inspection, which was
+of the intensest. I permitted one to alight on my flannel pyjamas, which
+I wore while en deshabille in camp. No sooner had he alighted than his
+posterior was raised, his head lowered, and his weapons, consisting
+of four hair-like styles, unsheathed from the proboscis-like bag which
+concealed them, and immediately I felt pain like that caused by a
+dexterous lancet-cut or the probe of a fine needle. I permitted him to
+gorge himself, though my patience and naturalistic interest were sorely
+tried. I saw his abdominal parts distend with the plenitude of the
+repast until it had swollen to three times its former shrunken girth,
+when he flew away of his own accord laden with blood. On rolling up my
+flannel pyjamas to see the fountain whence the fly had drawn the fluid,
+I discovered it to be a little above the left knee, by a crimson bead
+resting over the incision. After wiping the blood the wound was similar
+to that caused by a deep thrust of a fine needle, but all pain had
+vanished with the departure of the fly.
+
+Having caught a specimen of this fly, I next proceeded to institute a
+comparison between it and the tsetse, as described by Dr. Livingstone on
+pp. 56-57, 'Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa' (Murray's
+edition of 1868). The points of disagreement are many, and such as to
+make it entirely improbable that this fly is the true tsetse, though my
+men unanimously stated that its bite was fatal to horses as well as to
+donkeys. A descriptive abstract of the tsetse would read thus: "Not much
+larger than a common house-fly, nearly of the same brown colour as the
+honey-bee. After-part of the body has yellow bars across it. It has a
+peculiar buzz, and its bite is death to the horse, ox, and dog. On man
+the bite has no effect, neither has it on wild animals. When allowed
+to feed on the hand, it inserts the middle prong of three portions into
+which the proboscis divides, it then draws the prong out a little
+way, and it assumes a crimson colour as the mandibles come into brisk
+operation; a slight itching irritation follows the bite."
+
+The fly which I had under inspection is called mabunga by the natives.
+It is much larger than the common housefly, fully a third larger than
+the common honey-bee, and its colour more distinctly marked; its head is
+black, with a greenish gloss to it; the after-part of the body is marked
+by a white line running lengthwise from its junction with the trunk, and
+on each side of this white line are two other lines, one of a crimson
+colour, the other of a light brown. As for its buzz, there is no
+peculiarity in it, it might be mistaken for that of a honey-bee. When
+caught it made desperate efforts to get away, but never attempted to
+bite. This fly, along with a score of others, attacked my grey horse,
+and bit it so sorely in the legs that they appeared as if bathed in
+blood. Hence, I might have been a little vengeful if, with more than the
+zeal of an entomologist, I caused it to disclose whatever peculiarities
+its biting parts possessed.
+
+In order to bring this fly as life-like as possible before my readers, I
+may compare its head to most tiny miniature of an elephant's, because it
+has a black proboscis and a pair of horny antennae, which in colour and
+curve resemble tusks. The black proboscis, however, the simply a hollow
+sheath, which encloses, when not in the act of biting, four reddish
+and sharp lancets. Under the microscope these four lancets differ in
+thickness, two are very thick, the third is slender, but the fourth, of
+an opal colour and almost transparent, is exceedingly fine. This last
+must be the sucker. When the fly is about to wound, the two horny
+antennae are made to embrace the part, the lancets are unsheathed, and
+on the instant the incision is performed. This I consider to be the
+African "horse-fly."
+
+The second fly, which sang the tenor notes more nearly resembled in size
+and description the tsetse. It was exceedingly nimble, and it occupied
+three soldiers nearly an hour to capture a specimen; and, when it was
+finally caught, it stung most ravenously the hand, and never ceased
+its efforts to attack until it was pinned through. It had three or four
+white marks across the after-part of its body; but the biting parts of
+this fly consisted of two black antennae and an opal coloured style,
+which folded away under the neck. When about to bite, this style was
+shot out straight, and the antennae embraced it closely. After death the
+fly lost its distinctive white marks. Only one of this species did
+we see at this camp. The third fly, called "chufwa," pitched a weak
+alto-crescendo note, was a third larger than the house fly, and had long
+wings. If this insect sang the feeblest note, it certainly did the most
+work, and inflicted the most injury. Horses and donkeys streamed with
+blood, and reared and kicked through the pain. So determined was it not
+to be driven before it obtained its fill, that it was easily despatched;
+but this dreadful enemy to cattle constantly increased in numbers. The
+three species above named are, according to natives, fatal to
+cattle; and this may perhaps be the reason why such a vast expanse of
+first-class pasture is without domestic cattle of any kind, a few goats
+only being kept by the villagers. This fly I subsequently found to be
+the "tsetse."
+
+On the second morning, instead of proceeding, I deemed it more prudent
+to await the fourth caravan. Burton experimented sufficiently for me
+on the promised word of the Banyans of Kaole and Zanzibar, and waited
+eleven months before he received the promised articles. As I did not
+expect to be much over that time on my errand altogether, it would be
+ruin, absolute and irremediable, should I be detained at Unyanyembe so
+long a time by my caravan. Pending its arrival, I sought the pleasures
+of the chase. I was but a tyro in hunting, I confess, though I had shot
+a little on the plains of America and Persia; yet I considered myself
+a fair shot, and on game ground, and within a reasonable proximity to
+game, I doubted not but I could bring some to camp.
+
+After a march of a mile through the tall grass of the open, we gained
+the glades between the jungles. Unsuccessful here, after ever so much
+prying into fine hiding-places and lurking corners, I struck a trail
+well traversed by small antelope and hartebeest, which we followed. It
+led me into a jungle, and down a watercourse bisecting it; but, after
+following it for an hour, I lost it, and, in endeavouring to retrace it,
+lost my way. However, my pocket-compass stood me in good stead; and by
+it I steered for the open plain, in the centre of which stood the camp.
+But it was terribly hard work--this of plunging through an African
+jungle, ruinous to clothes, and trying to the cuticle. In order to
+travel quickly, I had donned a pair of flannel pyjamas, and my feet were
+encased in canvas shoes. As might be expected, before I had gone a
+few paces a branch of the acacia horrida--only one of a hundred such
+annoyances--caught the right leg of my pyjamas at the knee, and ripped
+it almost clean off; succeeding which a stumpy kolquall caught me by the
+shoulder, and another rip was the inevitable consequence. A few yards
+farther on, a prickly aloetic plant disfigured by a wide tear the
+other leg of my pyjamas, and almost immediately I tripped against a
+convolvulus strong as ratline, and was made to measure my length on a
+bed of thorns. It was on all fours, like a hound on a scent, that I was
+compelled to travel; my solar topee getting the worse for wear every
+minute; my skin getting more and more wounded; my clothes at each step
+becoming more and more tattered. Besides these discomforts, there was
+a pungent, acrid plant which, apart from its strong odorous emissions,
+struck me smartly on the face, leaving a burning effect similar to
+cayenne; and the atmosphere, pent in by the density of the jungle, was
+hot and stifling, and the perspiration transuded through every pore,
+making my flannel tatters feel as if I had been through a shower. When I
+had finally regained the plain, and could breathe free, I mentally vowed
+that the penetralia of an African jungle should not be visited by me
+again, save under most urgent necessity.
+
+The second and third day passed without any news of Maganga.
+Accordingly, Shaw and Bombay were sent to hurry him up by all means.
+On the fourth morning Shaw and Bombay returned, followed by the
+procrastinating Maganga and his laggard people. Questions only elicited
+an excuse that his men had been too sick, and he had feared to tax their
+strength before they were quite equal to stand the fatigue. Moreover he
+suggested that as they would be compelled to stay one day more at the
+camp, I might push on to Kingaru and camp there, until his arrival.
+Acting upon which suggestion I broke camp and started for Kingaru,
+distant five miles.
+
+On this march the land was more broken, and the caravan first
+encountered jungle, which gave considerable trouble to our cart.
+Pisolitic limestone cropped out in boulders and sheets, and we began
+to imagine ourselves approaching healthy highlands, and as if to give
+confirmation to the thought, to the north and north-west loomed the
+purple cones of Udoe, and topmost of all Dilima Peak, about 1,500 feet
+in height above the sea level. But soon after sinking into a bowl-like
+valley, green with tall corn, the road slightly deviated from north-west
+to west, the country still rolling before us in wavy undulations.
+
+In one of the depressions between these lengthy land-swells stood the
+village of Kingaru, with surroundings significant in their aspect
+of ague and fever. Perhaps the clouds surcharged with rain, and the
+overhanging ridges and their dense forests dulled by the gloom, made the
+place more than usually disagreeable, but my first impressions of the
+sodden hollow, pent in by those dull woods, with the deep gully close by
+containing pools of stagnant water, were by no means agreeable.
+
+Before we could arrange our camp and set the tents up, down poured the
+furious harbinger of the Masika season in torrents sufficient to damp
+the ardor and newborn love for East Africa I had lately manifested.
+However, despite rain, we worked on until our camp was finished and the
+property was safely stored from weather and thieves, and we could regard
+with resignation the raindrops beating the soil into mud of a very
+tenacious kind, and forming lakelets and rivers of our camp-ground.
+
+Towards night, the scene having reached its acme of unpleasantness, the
+rain ceased, and the natives poured into camp from the villages in the
+woods with their vendibles. Foremost among these, as if in duty bound,
+came the village sultan--lord, chief, or head--bearing three measures
+of matama and half a measure of rice, of which he begged, with paternal
+smiles, my acceptance. But under his smiling mask, bleared eyes, and
+wrinkled front was visible the soul of trickery, which was of the
+cunningest kind. Responding under the same mask adopted by this knavish
+elder, I said, "The chief of Kingaru has called me a rich sultan. If I
+am a rich sultan why comes not the chief with a rich present to me, that
+he might get a rich return?" Said he, with another leer of his wrinkled
+visage, "Kingaru is poor, there is no matama in the village." To which
+I replied that since there was no matama in the village I would pay him
+half a shukka, or a yard of cloth, which would be exactly equivalent to
+his present; that if he preferred to call his small basketful a present,
+I should be content to call my yard of cloth a present. With which logic
+he was fain to be satisfied.
+
+April 1st.--To-day the Expedition suffered a loss in the death of the
+grey Arab horse presented by Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar. The
+night previous I had noticed that the horse was suffering. Bearing in
+mind what has been so frequently asserted, namely, that no horses could
+live in the interior of Africa because of the tsetse, I had him opened,
+and the stomach, which I believed to be diseased, examined. Besides much
+undigested matama and grass there were found twenty-five short, thick,
+white worms, sticking like leeches into the coating of the stomach,
+while the intestines were almost alive with the numbers of long white
+worms. I was satisfied that neither man nor beast could long exist with
+such a mass of corrupting life within him.
+
+In order that the dead carcase might not taint the valley, I had it
+buried deep in the ground, about a score of yards from the encampment.
+From such a slight cause ensued a tremendous uproar from Kingaru--chief
+of the village--who, with his brother-chiefs of neighbouring villages,
+numbering in the aggregate two dozen wattled huts, had taken counsel
+upon the best means of mulcting the Musungu of a full doti or two of
+Merikani, and finally had arrived at the conviction that the act of
+burying a dead horse in their soil without "By your leave, sir," was
+a grievous and fineable fault. Affecting great indignation at the
+unpardonable omission, he, Kingaru, concluded to send to the Musungu
+four of his young men to say to him that "since you have buried your
+horse in my ground, it is well; let him remain there; but you must pay
+me two doti of Merikani." For reply the messengers were told to say to
+the chief that I would prefer talking the matter over with himself face
+to face, if he would condescend to visit me in my tent once again. As
+the village was but a stone's throw from our encampment, before many
+minutes had elapsed the wrinkled elder made his appearance at the door
+of my tent with about half the village behind him.
+
+The following dialogue which took place will serve to illustrate the
+tempers of the people with whom I was about to have a year's trading
+intercourse:
+
+White Man.--"Are you the great chief of Kingaru?"
+
+Kingaru.--"Huh-uh. Yes."
+
+W. M.--"The great, great chief?"
+
+Kingaru.--"Huh-uh. Yes."
+
+W. M.--"How many soldiers have you?"
+
+Kingaru.--" Why?"
+
+W. M.--"How many fighting men have you?"
+
+Kingaru.--"None."
+
+W. M.--"Oh! I thought you might have a thousand men with you, by your
+going to fine a strong white man, who has plenty of guns and soldiers,
+two doti for burying a dead horse."
+
+Kingaru (rather perplexed).--"No; I have no soldiers. I have only a few
+young men."
+
+W. M.--"Why do you come and make trouble, then?"
+
+Kingaru.--"It was not I; it was my brothers who said to me, 'Come here,
+come here, Kingaru, see what the white man has done! Has he not taken
+possession of your soil, in that he has put his horse into your ground
+without your permission? Come, go to him and see by what right.'
+Therefore have I come to ask you, who gave you permission to use my soil
+for a burying-ground?"
+
+W. M. "I want no man's permission to do what is right. My horse died;
+had I left him to fester and stink in your valley, sickness would visit
+your village, your water would become unwholesome, and caravans would
+not stop here for trade; for they would say, 'This is an unlucky spot,
+let us go away.' But enough said: I understand you to say that you do
+not want him buried in your ground; the error I have fallen into is
+easily put right. This minute my soldiers shall dig him out again, and
+cover up the soil as it was before; and the horse shall be left where he
+died." (Then shouting to Bombay.) "Ho! Bombay, take soldiers with jembes
+to dig my horse out of the ground, drag him to where he died, and make
+everything ready for a march to-morrow morning."
+
+Kingaru, his voice considerably higher, and his head moving to and fro
+with emotion, cries out, "Akuna, akuna, bana!"--"No, no, master! Let not
+the white man get angry. The horse is dead, and now lies buried; let him
+remain so, since he is already there, and let us be friends again."
+
+The Sheikh of Kingaru being thus brought to his senses, we bid each
+other the friendly "Kwaheri," and I was left alone to ruminate over my
+loss. Barely half an hour had elapsed, it was 9 P.M., the camp was in
+a semi-doze, when I heard deep groans issuing from one of the animals.
+Upon inquiry as to what animal was suffering, I was surprised to hear
+that it was my bay horse. With a bull's-eye lantern, I visited him, and
+perceived that the pain was located in the stomach, but whether it was
+from some poisonous plant he had eaten while out grazing, or from some
+equine disease, I did not know. He discharged copious quantities of
+loose matter, but there was nothing peculiar in its colour. The pain was
+evidently very great, for his struggles were very violent. I was up all
+night, hoping that it was but a temporary effect of some strange and
+noxious plant; but at 6 o'clock the next morning, after a short period
+of great agony, he also died; exactly fifteen hours after his companion.
+When the stomach was opened, it was found that death was caused by the
+internal rupture of a large cancer, which had affected the larger half
+of the coating of his stomach, and had extended an inch or two up the
+larynx. The contents of the stomach and intestines were deluged with the
+yellow viscous efflux from the cancer.
+
+I was thus deprived of both my horses, and that within the short space
+of fifteen hours. With my limited knowledge of veterinary science,
+however, strengthened by the actual and positive proofs obtained by the
+dissection of the two stomachs, I can scarcely state that horses can
+live to reach Unyanyembe, or that they can travel with ease through this
+part of East Africa. But should I have occasion at some future day,
+I should not hesitate to take four horses with me, though I should
+certainly endeavour to ascertain previous to purchase whether they, were
+perfectly sound and healthy, and to those travellers who cherish a good
+horse I would say, "Try one," and be not discouraged by my unfortunate
+experiences.
+
+The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd of April passed, and nothing had we heard or
+seen of the ever-lagging fourth caravan. In the meanwhile the list of
+casualties was being augmented. Besides the loss of this precious time,
+through the perverseness of the chief of the other caravan, and the
+loss of my two horses, a pagazi carrying boat-fixtures improved the
+opportunity, and deserted. Selim was struck down with a severe attack
+of ague and fever, and was soon after followed by the cook, then by the
+assistant cook and tailor, Abdul Kader. Finally, before the third day
+was over, Bombay had rheumatism, Uledi (Grant's old valet) had a swollen
+throat, Zaidi had the flux, Kingaru had the mukunguru; Khamisi, a
+pagazi, suffered from a weakness of the loins; Farjalla had a bilious
+fever; and before night closed Makoviga was very ill. Out of a force of
+twenty-five men one had deserted, and ten were on the sick list, and the
+presentiment that the ill-looking neighbourhood of Kingaru would prove
+calamitous to me was verified.
+
+On the 4th April Maganga and his people appeared, after being heralded
+by musketry-shots and horn-blowing, the usual signs of an approaching
+caravan in this land. His sick men were considerably improved, but they
+required one more day of rest at Kingaru. In the afternoon he came to
+lay siege to my generosity, by giving details of Soor Hadji Palloo's
+heartless cheats upon him; but I informed him, that since I had left
+Bagamoyo, I could no longer be generous; we were now in a land where
+cloth was at a high premium; that I had no more cloth than I should need
+to furnish food for myself and men; that he and his caravan had cost me
+more money and trouble than any three caravans I had, as indeed was the
+case. With this counter-statement he was obliged to be content. But I
+again solved his pecuniary doubts by promising that, if he hurried his
+caravan on to Unyanyembe, he should have no cause of complaint.
+
+The 5th of April saw the fourth caravan vanish for once in our front,
+with a fair promise that, however fast we should follow, we should not
+see them the hither side of Sinbamwenni.
+
+The following morning, in order to rouse my people from the sickened
+torpitude they had lapsed into, I beat an exhilarating alarum on a
+tin pan with an iron ladle, intimating that a sofari was about to be
+undertaken. This had a very good effect, judging from the extraordinary
+alacrity with which it was responded to. Before the sun rose we started.
+The Kingaru villagers were out with the velocity of hawks for any rags
+or refuse left behind us.
+
+The long march to Imbiki, fifteen miles, proved that our protracted stay
+at Kingaru had completely demoralized my soldiers and pagazis. Only
+a few of them had strength enough to reach Imbiki before night. The
+others, attending the laden donkeys, put in an appearance next morning,
+in a lamentable state of mind and body. Khamisi--the pagazi with the
+weak loins--had deserted, taking with him two goats, the property tent,
+and the whole of Uledi's personal wealth, consisting of his visiting
+dish-dasheh--a long shirt of the Arabic pattern, 10 lbs. of beads, and
+a few fine cloths, which Uledi, in a generous fit, had intrusted to
+him, while he carried the pagazi's load, 70 lbs. of Bubu beads. This
+defalcation was not to be overlooked, nor should Khamisi be permitted to
+return without an effort to apprehend him. Accordingly Uledi and Ferajji
+were despatched in pursuit while we rested at Imbiki, in order to give
+the dilapidated soldiers and animals time to recruit.
+
+On the 8th we continued our journey, and arrived at Msuwa. This march
+will be remembered by our caravan as the most fatiguing of all, though
+the distance was but ten miles. It was one continuous jungle, except
+three interjacent glades of narrow limits, which gave us three breathing
+pauses in the dire task of jungle travelling. The odour emitted from
+its fell plants was so rank, so pungently acrid, and the miasma from its
+decayed vegetation so dense, that I expected every moment to see myself
+and men drop down in paroxysms of acute fever. Happily this evil was
+not added to that of loading and unloading the frequently falling packs.
+Seven soldiers to attend seventeen laden donkeys were entirely too small
+a number while passing through a jungle; for while the path is but a
+foot wide, with a wall of thorny plants and creepers bristling on each
+side, and projecting branches darting across it, with knots of spikey
+twigs stiff as spike-nails, ready to catch and hold anything above four
+feet in height, it is but reasonable to suppose that donkeys standing
+four feet high, with loads measuring across from bale to bale four feet,
+would come to grief. This grief was of frequent recurrence here, causing
+us to pause every few minutes for re-arrangements. So often had this
+task to be performed, that the men got perfectly discouraged, and had to
+bespoken to sharply before they set to work. By the time I reached Msuwa
+there was nobody with me and the ten donkeys I drove but Mabruk the
+Little, who, though generally stolid, stood to his work like a man.
+Bombay and Uledi were far behind, with the most jaded donkeys. Shaw
+was in charge of the cart, and his experiences were most bitter, as he
+informed me he had expended a whole vocabulary of stormy abuse known
+to sailors, and a new one which he had invented ex tempore. He did not
+arrive until two o'clock next morning, and was completely worn out.
+
+Another halt was fixed at Msuwa, that we and our animals might
+recuperate. The chief of the village, a white man in everything but
+colour, sent me and mine the fattest broad-tailed sheep of his
+flock, with five measures of matama grain. The mutton was excellent,
+unapproachable. For his timely and needful present I gave him two doti,
+and amused him with an exhibition of the wonderful mechanism of the
+Winchester rifle, and my breechloading revolvers.
+
+He and his people were intelligent enough to comprehend the utility of
+these weapons at an emergency, and illustrated in expressive pantomime
+the powers they possessed against numbers of people armed only with
+spears and bows, by extending their arms with an imaginary gun and
+describing a clear circle. "Verily," said they, "the Wasungu are far
+wiser than the Washensi. What heads they have! What wonderful things
+they make! Look at their tents, their guns, their time-pieces, their
+clothes, and that little rolling thing (the cart) which carries more
+than five men,---que!"
+
+On the 10th, recovered from the excessive strain of the last march, the
+caravan marched out of Msuwa, accompanied by the hospitable villagers
+as far as their stake defence, receiving their unanimous "Kwaheris."
+Outside the village the march promised to be less arduous than between
+Imbiki and Msuwa. After crossing a beautiful little plain intersected
+by a dry gully or mtoni, the route led by a few cultivated fields, where
+the tillers greeted us with one grand unwinking stare, as if fascinated.
+
+Soon after we met one of those sights common in part of the world, to
+wit a chain slave-gang, bound east. The slaves did not appear to be
+in any way down-hearted on the contrary, they seemed imbued with the
+philosophic jollity of the jolly servant of Martin Chuzzlewit. Were it
+not for their chains, it would have been difficult to discover master
+from slave; the physiognomic traits were alike--the mild benignity with
+which we were regarded was equally visible on all faces. The chains were
+ponderous--they might have held elephants captive; but as the slaves
+carried nothing but themselves, their weight could not have been
+insupportable.
+
+The jungle was scant on this march, and though in some places the packs
+met with accidents, they were not such as seriously to retard progress.
+By 10 A.M. we were in camp in the midst of an imposing view of green
+sward and forest domed by a cloudless sky. We had again pitched our camp
+in the wilderness, and, as is the custom of caravans, fired two shots to
+warn any Washensi having grain to sell, that we were willing to trade.
+
+Our next halting-place was Kisemo, distant but eleven miles from Msuwa,
+a village situated in a populous district, having in its vicinity no
+less than five other villages, each fortified by stakes and thorny
+abattis, with as much fierce independence as if their petty lords were
+so many Percys and Douglasses. Each topped a ridge, or a low hummock,
+with an assumption of defiance of the cock-on-its-own-dunghill type.
+Between these humble eminences and low ridges of land wind narrow vales
+which are favored with the cultivation of matama and Indian corn. Behind
+the village flows the Ungerengeri River, an impetuous stream during the
+Masika season, capable of overflowing its steep banks, but in the dry
+season it subsides into its proper status, which is that of a small
+stream of very clear sweet water. Its course from Kisemo is south-west,
+then easterly; it is the main feeder of the Kingani River.
+
+The belles of Kisemo are noted for their vanity in brass wire, which is
+wound in spiral rings round their wrists and ankles, and the varieties
+of style which their hispid heads exhibit; while their poor lords,
+obliged to be contented with dingy torn clouts and split ears, show what
+wide sway Asmodeus holds over this terrestrial sphere--for it must have
+been an unhappy time when the hard-besieged husbands finally gave
+way before their spouses. Besides these brassy ornaments on their
+extremities, and the various hair-dressing styles, the women of Kisemo
+frequently wear lengthy necklaces, which run in rivers of colours down
+their bodies.
+
+A more comical picture is seldom presented than that of one of these
+highly-dressed females engaged in the homely and necessary task of
+grinding corn for herself and family. The grinding apparatus consists
+of two portions: one, a thick pole of hard wood about six feet long,
+answering for a pestle; the other, a capacious wooden mortar, three feet
+in height.
+
+While engaged in setting his tent, Shaw was obliged to move a small flat
+stone, to drive a peg into the ground. The village chief, who saw him do
+it, rushed up in a breathless fashion, and replaced the stone instantly,
+then stood on it in an impressive manner, indicative of the great
+importance attached to that stone and location. Bombay, seeing Shaw
+standing in silent wonder at the act, volunteered to ask the chief what
+was the matter. The Sheikh solemnly answered, with a finger pointing
+downward, "Uganga!" Whereupon I implored him to let me see what was
+under the stone. With a graciousness quite affecting he complied. My
+curiosity was gratified with the sight of a small whittled stick, which
+pinned fast to the ground an insect, the cause of a miscarriage to a
+young female of the village.
+
+During the afternoon, Uledi and Ferajji, who had been despatched after
+the truant Khamisi, returned with him and all the missing articles.
+Khamisi, soon after leaving the road and plunging into the jungle,
+where he was mentally triumphing in his booty, was met by some of the
+plundering Washensi, who are always on the qui vive for stragglers, and
+unceremoniously taken to their village in the woods, and bound to a tree
+preparatory, to being killed. Khamisi said that he asked them why they
+tied him up, to which they answered, that they were about to kill him,
+because he was a Mgwana, whom they were accustomed to kill as soon as
+they were caught. But Uledi and Ferajji shortly after coming upon the
+scene, both well armed, put an end to the debates upon Khamisi's fate,
+by claiming him as an absconding pagazi from the Musungu's camp, as well
+as all the articles he possessed at the time of capture. The robbers did
+not dispute the claim for the pagazi, goats, tent, or any other
+valuable found with him, but intimated that they deserved a reward for
+apprehending him. The demand being considered just, a reward to the
+extent of two doti and a fundo, or ten necklaces of beads, was given.
+
+Khamisi, for his desertion and attempted robbery, could not be pardoned
+without first suffering punishment. He had asked at Bagamoyo, before
+enlisting in my service, an advance of $5 in money, and had received it,
+and a load of Bubu beads, no heavier than a pagazis load, had been given
+him to carry; he had, therefore, no excuse for desertion. Lest I should
+overstep prudence, however, in punishing him, I convened a court of
+eight pagazis and four soldiers to sit in judgment, and asked them
+to give me their decision as to what should be done. Their unanimous
+verdict was that he was guilty of a crime almost unknown among the
+Wanyamwezi pagazis, and as it was likely to give bad repute to the
+Wanyamwezi carriers, they therefore sentenced him to be flogged with the
+"Great Master's" donkey whip, which was accordingly carried out, to poor
+Khamisi's crying sorrow.
+
+On the 12th the caravan reached Mussoudi, on the Ungerengeri river.
+Happily for our patient donkeys this march was free from all the
+annoying troubles of the jungle. Happily for ourselves also, for we had
+no more the care of the packs and the anxiety about arriving at camp
+before night. The packs once put firmly on the backs of our good
+donkeys, they marched into camp--the road being excellent--without a
+single displacement or cause for one impatient word, soon after leaving
+Kisemo. A beautiful prospect, glorious in its wild nature, fragrant with
+its numerous flowers and variety of sweetly-smelling shrubs, among which
+I recognised the wild sage, the indigo plant, &c., terminated only
+at the foot of Kira Peak and sister cones, which mark the boundaries
+between Udoe and Ukami, yet distant twenty miles. Those distant
+mountains formed a not unfit background to this magnificent picture
+of open plain, forest patches, and sloping lawns--there was enough of
+picturesqueness and sublimity in the blue mountains to render it one
+complete whole. Suppose a Byron saw some of these scenes, he would be
+inclined to poetize in this manner:
+
+Morn dawns, and with it stern Udoe's hills, Dark Urrugum's rocks, and
+Kira's peak, Robed half in mist, bedewed with various rills, Arrayed in
+many a dun and purple streak.
+
+When drawing near the valley of Ungerengeri, granite knobs and
+protuberances of dazzling quartz showed their heads above the reddish
+soil. Descending the ridge where these rocks were prominent, we found
+ourselves in the sable loam deposit of the Ungerengeri, and in the midst
+of teeming fields of sugar-cane and matama, Indian corn, muhogo,
+and gardens of curry, egg, and cucumber plants. On the banks of the
+Ungerengeri flourished the banana, and overtopping it by seventy feet
+and more, shot up the stately mparamusi, the rival in beauty of the
+Persian chenar and Abyssinian plane. Its trunk is straight and comely
+enough for the mainmast of a first, class frigate, while its expanding
+crown of leafage is distinguished from all others by its density and
+vivid greenness. There were a score of varieties of the larger kind of
+trees, whose far-extending branches embraced across the narrow but swift
+river. The depressions of the valley and the immediate neighbourhood of
+the river were choked with young forests of tiger-grass and stiff reeds.
+
+Mussoudi is situated on a higher elevation than the average level of the
+village, and consequently looks down upon its neighbours, which number a
+hundred and more. It is the western extremity of Ukwere. On the western
+bank of the Ungerengeri the territory of the Wakami commences. We had to
+halt one day at Mussoudi because the poverty of the people prevented us
+from procuring the needful amount of grain. The cause of this scantiness
+in such a fertile and populous valley was, that the numerous caravans
+which had preceded us had drawn heavily for their stores for the
+upmarches.
+
+On the 14th we crossed the Ungerengeri, which here flows southerly to
+the southern extremity of the valley, where it bends easterly as far as
+Kisemo. After crossing the river here, fordable at all times and only
+twenty yards in breadth, we had another mile of the valley with its
+excessively moist soil and rank growth of grass. It then ascended into
+a higher elevation, and led through a forest of mparamusi, tamarind,
+tamarisk, acacia, and the blooming mimosa. This ascent was continued for
+two hours, when we stood upon the spine of the largest ridge, where we
+could obtain free views of the wooded plain below and the distant ridges
+of Kisemo, which we had but lately left. A descent of a few hundred feet
+terminated in a deep but dry mtoni with a sandy bed, on the other side
+of which we had to regain the elevation we had lost, and a similar
+country opened into view until we found a newly-made boma with
+well-built huts of grass rear a pool of water, which we at once occupied
+as a halting-place for the night. The cart gave us considerable trouble;
+not even our strongest donkey, though it carried with ease on its back
+196 lbs., could draw the cart with a load of only 225 lbs. weight.
+
+Early on the morning of the 15th we broke camp and started for Mikeseh.
+By 8.30 A.M. we were ascending the southern face of the Kira Peak. When
+we had gained the height of two hundred feet above the level of the
+surrounding country, we were gratified with a magnificent view of a land
+whose soil knows no Sabbath.
+
+After travelling the spine of a ridge abutting against the southern
+slope of Kira we again descended into the little valley of Kiwrima,
+the first settlement we meet in Udoe, where there is always an abundant
+supply of water. Two miles west of Kiwrima is Mikiseh.
+
+On the 16th we reached Ulagalla after a few hours' march. Ulagalla is
+the name of a district, or a portion of a district, lying between the
+mountains of Uruguru, which bound it southerly, and the mountains of
+Udoe, lying northerly and parallel with them, and but ten miles apart.
+The principal part of the basin thus formed is called Ulagalla.
+
+Muhalleh is the next settlement, and here we found ourselves in
+the territory of the Waseguhha. On this march we were hemmed in by
+mountains--on our left by those of Uruguru, on our right by those of
+Udoe and Useguhha--a most agreeable and welcome change to us after
+the long miles of monotonous level we had hitherto seen. When tired of
+looking into the depths of the forest that still ran on either side
+of the road, we had but to look up to the mountain's base, to note its
+strange trees, its plants and vari-coloured flowers, we had but to raise
+our heads to vary this pleasant occupation by observing the lengthy and
+sinuous spine of the mountains, and mentally report upon their outline,
+their spurs, their projections and ravines, their bulging rocks and deep
+clefts, and, above all, the dark green woods clothing them from summit
+to base. And when our attention was not required for the mundane task
+of regarding the donkeys' packs, or the pace of the cautious-stepping
+pagazis, it was gratifying to watch the vapours play about the mountain
+summits--to see them fold into fleecy crowns and fantastic clusters,
+dissolve, gather together into a pall that threatened rain, and sail
+away again before the brightening sun.
+
+At Muhalleh was the fourth caravan under Maganga with three more sick
+men, who turned with eager eyes to myself, "the dispenser of medicine,"
+as I approached. Salvos of small arms greeted me, and a present of rice
+and ears of Indian corn for roasting were awaiting my acceptance; but,
+as I told Maganga, I would have preferred to hear that his party were
+eight or ten marches ahead. At this camp, also, we met Salim bin Rashid,
+bound eastward, with a huge caravan carrying three hundred ivory tusks.
+This good Arab, besides welcoming the new comer with a present of rice,
+gave me news of Livingstone. He had met the old traveller at Ujiji, had
+lived in the next but to him for two weeks, described him as looking
+old, with long grey moustaches and beard, just recovered from severe
+illness, looking very wan; when fully recovered Livingstone intended to
+visit a country called Manyema by way of Marungu.
+
+The valley of the Ungerengeri with Muhalleh exhibits wonderful
+fertility. Its crops of matama were of the tallest, and its Indian
+corn would rival the best crops ever seen in the Arkansas bottoms. The
+numerous mountain-fed streams rendered the great depth of loam very
+sloppy, in consequence of which several accidents occurred before we
+reached the camp, such as wetting cloth, mildewing tea, watering sugar,
+and rusting tools; but prompt attention to these necessary things saved
+us from considerable loss.
+
+There was a slight difference noticed in the demeanour and bearing of
+the Waseguhha compared with the Wadoe, Wakami, and Wakwere heretofore
+seen. There was none of that civility we had been until now pleased to
+note: their express desire to barter was accompanied with insolent
+hints that we ought to take their produce at their own prices. If
+we remonstrated they became angry; retorting fiercely, impatient of
+opposition, they flew into a passion, and were glib in threats. This
+strange conduct, so opposite to that of the calm and gentle Wakwere,
+may be excellently illustrated by comparing the manner of the hot-headed
+Greek with that of the cool and collected German. Necessity compelled us
+to purchase eatables of them, and, to the credit of the country and its
+productions, be it said, their honey had the peculiar flavour of that of
+famed Hymettus.
+
+Following the latitudinal valley of the Ungerengeri, within two hours on
+the following morning we passed close under the wall of the capital of
+Useguhha--Simbamwenni. The first view of the walled town at the
+western foot of the Uruguru mountains, with its fine valley abundantly
+beautiful, watered by two rivers, and several pellucid streams of water
+distilled by the dew and cloud-enriched heights around, was one that
+we did not anticipate to meet in Eastern Africa. In Mazanderan, Persia,
+such a scene would have answered our expectations, but here it was
+totally unexpected. The town may contain a population of 3,000, having
+about 1,000 houses; being so densely crowded, perhaps 5,000 would more
+closely approximate. The houses in the town are eminently African, but
+of the best type of construction. The fortifications are on an Arabic
+Persic model--combining Arab neatness with Persian plan. Through a ride
+of 950 miles in Persia I never met a town outside of the great cities
+better fortified than Simbamwenni. In Persia the fortifications were
+of mud, even those of Kasvin, Teheran, Ispahan, and Shiraz; those
+of Simbamwenni are of stone, pierced with two rows of loopholes for
+musketry. The area of the town is about half a square mile, its plan
+being quadrangular. Well-built towers of stone guard each corner; four
+gates, one facing each cardinal point, and set half way between the
+several towers, permit ingress and egress for its inhabitants. The gates
+are closed with solid square doors made of African teak, and carved
+with the infinitesimally fine and complicated devices of the Arabs, from
+which I suspect that the doors were made either at Zanzibar or on the
+coast, and conveyed to Simbamwenni plank by plank; yet as there is much
+communication between Bagamoyo and Simbamwenni, it is just possible that
+native artisans are the authors of this ornate workmanship, as several
+doors chiselled and carved in the same manner, though not quite so
+elaborately, were visible in the largest houses. The palace of the
+Sultan is after the style of those on the coast, with long sloping roof,
+wide eaves, and veranda in front.
+
+The Sultana is the eldest daughter of the famous Kisabengo, a name
+infamous throughout the neighbouring countries of Udoe, Ukami, Ukwere,
+Kingaru, Ukwenni, and Kiranga-Wanna, for his kidnapping propensities.
+Kisabengo was another Theodore on a small scale. Sprung from humble
+ancestry, he acquired distinction for his personal strength, his powers
+of harangue, and his amusing and versatile address, by which he gained
+great ascendency over fugitive slaves, and was chosen a leader among
+them. Fleeing from justice, which awaited him at the hands of the
+Zanzibar Sultan, he arrived in Ukami, which extended at that time from
+Ukwere to Usagara, and here he commenced a career of conquest, the
+result of which was the cession by the Wakami of an immense tract of
+fertile country, in the valley of the Ungerengeri. On its most desirable
+site, with the river flowing close under the walls, he built his
+capital, and called it Simbamwenni, which means "The Lion," or the
+strongest, City. In old age the successful robber and kidnapper
+changed his name of Kisabengo, which had gained such a notoriety, to
+Simbamwenni, after his town; and when dying, after desiring that his
+eldest daughter should succeed him, he bestowed the name of the town
+upon her also, which name of Simbamwenni the Sultana now retains and is
+known by.
+
+While crossing a rapid stream, which, as I said before flowed close
+to the walls, the inhabitants of Simbamwenni had a fine chance of
+gratifying their curiosity of seeing the "Great Musungu," whose several
+caravans had preceded him, and who unpardonably, because unlicensed, had
+spread a report of his great wealth and power. I was thus the object of
+a universal stare. At one time on the banks there were considerably over
+a thousand natives going through the several tenses and moods of the
+verb "to stare," or exhibiting every phase of the substantive, viz.--the
+stare peremptory, insolent, sly, cunning, modest, and casual. The
+warriors of the Sultana, holding in one hand the spear, the bow, and
+sheaf or musket, embraced with the other their respective friends, like
+so many models of Nisus and Euryalus, Theseus and Pirithous, Damon and
+Pythias, or Achilles and Patroclus, to whom they confidentially related
+their divers opinions upon my dress and colour. The words "Musungu kuba"
+had as much charm for these people as the music of the Pied Piper had
+for the rats of Hamelin, since they served to draw from within the walls
+across their stream so large a portion of the population; and when I
+continued the journey to the Ungerengeri, distant four miles, I feared
+that the Hamelin catastrophe might have to be repeated before I could
+rid myself of them. But fortunately for my peace of mind, they finally
+proved vincible under the hot sun, and the distance we had to go to
+camp.
+
+As we were obliged to overhaul the luggage, and repair saddles, as well
+as to doctor a few of the animals, whose backs had by this time become
+very sore, I determined to halt here two days. Provisions were very
+plentiful also at Simbamwenni, though comparatively dear.
+
+On the second day I was, for the first time, made aware that my
+acclimatization in the ague-breeding swamps of Arkansas was powerless
+against the mukunguru of East Africa. The premonitory symptoms of the
+African type were felt in my system at 10 A.M. First, general lassitude
+prevailed, with a disposition to drowsiness; secondly, came the spinal
+ache which, commencing from the loins, ascended the vertebrae, and
+extended around the ribs, until it reached the shoulders, where it
+settled into a weary pain; thirdly came a chilliness over the whole
+body, which was quickly followed by a heavy head, swimming eyes, and
+throbbing temples, with vague vision, which distorted and transformed
+all objects of sight. This lasted until 10 P.M., and the mukunguru left
+me, much prostrated in strength.
+
+The remedy, applied for three mornings in succession after the attack,
+was such as my experience in Arkansas had taught me was the most
+powerful corrective, viz., a quantum of fifteen grains of quinine,
+taken in three doses of five grains each, every other hour from dawn to
+meridian--the first dose to be taken immediately after the first effect
+of the purging medicine taken at bedtime the night previous. I may add
+that this treatment was perfectly successful in my case, and in all
+others which occurred in my camp. After the mukunguru had declared
+itself, there was no fear, with such a treatment of it, of a second
+attack, until at least some days afterwards.
+
+On the third day the camp was visited by the ambassadors of Her Highness
+the Sultana of Simbamwenni, who came as her representatives to receive
+the tribute which she regards herself as powerful enough to enforce. But
+they, as well as Madame Simbamwenni, were informed, that as we knew it
+was their custom to charge owners of caravans but one tribute, and as
+they remembered the Musungu (Farquhar) had paid already, it was not fair
+that I should have to pay again. The ambassadors replied with a "Ngema"
+(very well), and promised to carry my answer back to their mistress.
+Though it was by no means "very well" in fact, as it will be seen in
+a subsequent chapter how the female Simbamwenni took advantage of an
+adverse fortune which befell me to pay herself. With this I close the
+chapter of incidents experienced during our transit across the maritime
+region.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI. -- TO UGOGO.
+
+     A valley of despond, and hot-bed of malaria.--Myriads of
+     vermin.--The Makata swamp.--A sorrowful experience catching
+     a deserter.--A far-embracing prospect.--Illness of William
+     Farquhar.-Lake Ugombo.--A land of promise.--The great
+     Kisesa.--The plague of earwigs.
+
+
+The distance from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni we found to be 119 miles,
+and was accomplished in fourteen marches. But these marches, owing to
+difficulties arising from the Masika season, and more especially to the
+lagging of the fourth caravan under Maganga, extended to twenty-nine
+days, thus rendering our progress very slow indeed--but a little more
+than four miles a-day. I infer, from what I have seen of the travelling,
+that had I not been encumbered by the sick Wanyamwezi porters, I could
+have accomplished the distance in sixteen days. For it was not the
+donkeys that proved recreant to my confidence; they, poor animals,
+carrying a weight of 150 lbs. each, arrived at Simbamwenni in first-rate
+order; but it was Maganga, composed of greed and laziness, and his
+weakly-bodied tribe, who were ever falling sick. In dry weather the
+number of marches might have been much reduced. Of the half-dozen
+of Arabs or so who preceded this Expedition along this route, two
+accomplished the entire distance in eight days. From the brief
+descriptions given of the country, as it day by day expanded to our
+view, enough may be gleaned to give readers a fair idea of it. The
+elevation of Simbamwenni cannot be much over 1,000 feet above the level,
+the rise of the land having been gradual. It being the rainy season,
+about which so many ominous statements were doled out to us by those
+ignorant of the character of the country, we naturally saw it under its
+worst aspect; but, even in this adverse phase of it, with all its depth
+of black mud, its excessive dew, its dripping and chill grass, its
+density of rank jungle, and its fevers, I look back upon the scene with
+pleasure, for the wealth and prosperity it promises to some civilized
+nation, which in some future time will come and take possession of it. A
+railroad from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni might be constructed with as
+much ease and rapidity as, and at far less cost than the Union Pacific
+Railway, whose rapid strides day by day towards completion the world
+heard of and admired. A residence in this part of Africa, after a
+thorough system of drainage had been carried out, would not be attended
+with more discomfort than generally follows upon the occupation of new
+land. The temperature at this season during the day never exceeded 85
+degrees Fahrenheit. The nights were pleasant--too cold without a pair
+of blankets for covering; and, as far as Simbamwenni, they were without
+that pest which is so dreadful on the Nebraska and Kansas prairies,
+the mosquito. The only annoyances I know of that would tell hard on the
+settler is the determined ferocity of the mabungu, or horse-fly; the
+chufwa, &c., already described, which, until the dense forests and
+jungles were cleared, would be certain to render the keeping of domestic
+cattle unremunerative.
+
+Contrary to expectation the Expedition was not able to start at the end
+of two days; the third and the fourth days were passed miserably enough
+in the desponding valley of Ungerengeri. This river, small as it is in
+the dry seasons, becomes of considerable volume and power during the
+Masika, as we experienced to our sorrow. It serves as a drain to a score
+of peaks and two long ranges of mountains; winding along their base, it
+is the recipient of the cascades seen flashing during the few intervals
+of sunlight, of all the nullahs and ravines which render the lengthy
+frontage of the mountain slopes so rugged and irregular, until it glides
+into the valley of Simbamwenni a formidable body of water, opposing a
+serious obstacle to caravans without means to build bridges; added to
+which was an incessant downfall of rain--such a rain as shuts people
+in-doors and renders them miserable and unamiable--a real London
+rain--an eternal drizzle accompanied with mist and fog. When the sun
+shone it appeared but a pale image of itself, and old pagazis, wise in
+their traditions as old whaling captains, shook their heads ominously at
+the dull spectre, and declared it was doubtful if the rain would cease
+for three weeks yet.
+
+The site of the caravan camp on the hither side of the Ungerengeri was a
+hot-bed of malaria, unpleasant to witness--an abomination to memory.
+The filth of generations of pagazis had gathered innumerable hosts
+of creeping things. Armies of black, white, and red ants infest the
+stricken soil; centipedes, like worms, of every hue, clamber over shrubs
+and plants; hanging to the undergrowth are the honey-combed nests
+of yellow-headed wasps with stings as harmful as scorpions; enormous
+beetles, as large as full-grown mice, roll dunghills over the ground; of
+all sorts, shapes, sizes, and hues are the myriad-fold vermin with which
+the ground teems; in short, the richest entomological collection could
+not vie in variety and numbers with the species which the four walls of
+my tent enclosed from morning until night.
+
+On the fifth morning, or the 23rd April, the rain gave us a few hours'
+respite, during which we managed to wade through the Stygian quagmire
+reeking with noisomeness to the inundated river-bank. The soldiers
+commenced at 5 A.M. to convey the baggage across from bank to bank over
+a bridge which was the most rustic of the rustic kind. Only an ignorant
+African would have been satisfied with its small utility as a means to
+cross a deep and rapid body of water. Even for light-footed Wanyamwezi
+pagazis it was anything but comfortable to traverse. Only a professional
+tight-rope performer could have carried a load across with ease. To
+travel over an African bridge requires, first, a long leap from land to
+the limb of a tree (which may or may not be covered by water), followed
+by a long jump ashore. With 70 lbs. weight on his back, the carrier
+finds it difficult enough. Sometimes he is assisted by ropes
+extemporized from the long convolvuli which hang from almost every tree,
+but not always, these being deemed superfluities by the Washensi.
+
+Fortunately the baggage was transferred without a single accident, and
+though the torrent was strong, the donkeys were dragged through the
+flood by vigorous efforts and much objurgation without a casualty.
+This performance of crossing the Ungerengeri occupied fully five hours,
+though energy, abuse, and fury enough were expended for an army.
+
+Reloading and wringing our clothes dry, we set out from the horrible
+neighbourhood of the river, with its reek and filth, in a northerly
+direction, following a road which led up to easy and level ground. Two
+obtruding hills were thus avoided on our left, and after passing them we
+had shut out the view of the hateful valley.
+
+I always found myself more comfortable and lighthearted while travelling
+than when chafing and fretting in camp at delays which no effort could
+avoid, and consequently I fear that some things, while on a march, may
+be tinted somewhat stronger than their appearance or merit may properly
+warrant. But I thought that the view opening before us was much more
+agreeable than the valley of Simbamwenni with all its indescribable
+fertility. It was a series of glades opening one after another between
+forest clumps of young trees, hemmed in distantly by isolated peaks
+and scattered mountains. Now and again, as we crested low eminences
+we caught sight of the blue Usagara mountains, bounding the horizon
+westerly and northerly, and looked down upon a vast expanse of plain
+which lay between.
+
+At the foot of the lengthy slope, well-watered by bubbling springs and
+mountain rills, we found a comfortable khambi with well-made huts, which
+the natives call Simbo. It lies just two hours or five miles north-west
+of the Ungerengeri crossing. The ground is rocky, composed principally
+of quartzose detritus swept down by the constant streams. In the
+neighbourhood of these grow bamboo, the thickest of which was about two
+and a half inches in diameter; the "myombo," a very shapely tree, with
+a clean trunk like an ash, the "imbite," with large, fleshy leaves like
+the "mtamba," sycamore, plum-tree, the "ugaza," ortamarisk, and the
+"mgungu," a tree containing several wide branches with small leaves
+clustered together in a clump, and the silk-cotton tree.
+
+Though there are no villages or settlements in view of Simbo Khambi,
+there are several clustered within the mountain folds, inhabited by
+Waseguhha somewhat prone to dishonest acts and murder.
+
+The long broad plain visible from the eminences crossed between the
+Ungerengeri and Simbo was now before us, and became known to sorrowful
+memory subsequently, as the Makata Valley. The initial march was from
+Simbo, its terminus at Rehenneko, at the base of the Usagara mountains,
+six marches distant. The valley commences with broad undulations,
+covered with young forests of bamboo, which grow thickly along the
+streams, the dwarf fan-palm, the stately Palmyra, and the mgungu. These
+undulations soon become broken by gullies containing water, nourishing
+dense crops of cane reeds and broad-bladed grass, and, emerging from
+this district, wide savannah covered with tall grass open into view,
+with an isolated tree here and there agreeably breaking the monotony of
+the scene. The Makata is a wilderness containing but one village of the
+Waseguhha throughout its broad expanse. Venison, consequently, abounds
+within the forest clumps, and the kudu, hartebeest, antelope, and zebra
+may be seen at early dawn emerging into the open savannahs to feed. At
+night, the cyn-hyaena prowls about with its hideous clamour seeking for
+sleeping prey, man or beast.
+
+The slushy mire of the savannahs rendered marching a work of great
+difficulty; its tenacious hold of the feet told terribly on men
+and animals. A ten-mile march required ten hours, we were therefore
+compelled to camp in the middle of this wilderness, and construct a new
+khambi, a measure which was afterwards adopted by half a dozen caravans.
+
+The cart did not arrive until nearly midnight, and with it, besides
+three or four broken-down pagazis, came Bombay with the dolorous tale,
+that having put his load--consisting of the property tent, one large
+American axe, his two uniform coats, his shirts, beads and cloth,
+powder, pistol, and hatchet--on the ground, to go and assist the cart
+out of a quagmire, he had returned to the place where he had left it
+and could not find it, that he believed that some thieving Washensi, who
+always lurk in the rear of caravans to pick up stragglers, had decamped
+with it. Which dismal tale told me at black midnight was not received
+at all graciously, but rather with most wrathful words, all of which
+the penitent captain received as his proper due. Working myself into a
+fury, I enumerated his sins to him; he had lost a goat at Muhalleh, he
+had permitted Khamisi to desert with valuable property at Imbiki; he had
+frequently shown culpable negligence in not looking after the donkeys,
+permitting them to be tied up at night without seeing that they had
+water, and in the mornings, when about to march, he preferred to sleep
+until 7 o'clock, rather than wake up early and saddle the donkeys, that
+we might start at 6 o'clock; he had shown of late great love for the
+fire, cowering like a bloodless man before it, torpid and apathetic; he
+had now lost the property-tent in the middle of the Masika season, by
+which carelessness the cloth bales would rot and become valueless; he
+had lost the axe which I should want at Ujiji to construct my boat; and
+finally, he had lost a pistol and hatchet, and a flaskful of the best
+powder. Considering all these things, how utterly incompetent he was
+to be captain, I would degrade him from his office and appoint Mabruki
+Burton instead. Uledi, also, following the example of Bombay, instead of
+being second captain, should give no orders to any soldiers in future,
+but should himself obey those given by Mabruki--the said Mabruki being
+worth a dozen Bombays, and two dozen Uledis; and so he was dismissed
+with orders to return at daylight to find the tent, axe, pistol, powder,
+and hatchet.
+
+The next morning the caravan, thoroughly fatigued with the last day's
+exertions, was obliged to halt. Bombay was despatched after the
+lost goods; Kingaru, Mabruki the Great, and Mabruki the Little were
+despatched to bring back three doti-worth of grain, on which we were to
+subsist in the wilderness.
+
+Three days passed away and we were still at camp, awaiting, with what
+patience we possessed, the return of the soldiers. In the meantime
+provisions ran very low, no game could be procured, the birds were so
+wild. Two days shooting procured but two potfuls of birds, consisting
+of grouse, quail, and pigeons. Bombay returned unsuccessfully from his
+search after the missing property, and suffered deep disgrace.
+
+On the fourth day I despatched Shaw with two more soldiers, to see what
+had become of Kingaru and the two Mabrukis. Towards night he returned
+completely prostrated, with a violent attack of the mukunguru, or ague;
+but bringing the missing soldiers, who were thus left to report for
+themselves.
+
+With most thankful hearts did we quit our camp, where so much anxiety
+of mind and fretfulness had been suffered, not heeding a furious rain,
+which, after drenching us all night, might have somewhat damped our
+ardor for the march under other circumstances. The road for the first
+mile led over reddish ground, and was drained by gentle slopes falling
+east and west; but, leaving the cover of the friendly woods, on whose
+eastern margin we had been delayed so long, we emerged into one of the
+savannahs, whose soil during the rain is as soft as slush and tenacious
+as thick mortar, where we were all threatened with the fate of the
+famous Arkansas traveller, who had sunk so low in one of the many
+quagmires in Arkansas county, that nothing but his tall "stove-pipe" hat
+was left visible.
+
+Shaw was sick, and the whole duty of driving the foundering caravan
+devolved upon myself. The Wanyamwezi donkeys stuck in the mire as if
+they were rooted to it. As fast as one was flogged from his stubborn
+position, prone to the depths fell another, giving me a Sisyphean
+labour, which was maddening trader pelting rain, assisted by such men
+as Bombay and Uledi, who could not for a whole skin's sake stomach the
+storm and mire. Two hours of such a task enabled me to drag my caravan
+over a savannah one mile and a half broad; and barely had I finished
+congratulating myself over my success before I was halted by a deep
+ditch, which, filled with rain-water from the inundated savannahs, had
+become a considerable stream, breast-deep, flowing swiftly into the
+Makata. Donkeys had to be unloaded, led through a torrent, and loaded
+again on the other bank--an operation which consumed a full hour.
+
+Presently, after straggling through a wood clump, barring our progress
+was another stream, swollen into a river. The bridge being swept away,
+we were obliged to swim and float our baggage over, which delayed us
+two hours more. Leaving this second river-bank, we splashed, waded,
+occasionally half-swimming, and reeled through mire, water-dripping
+grass and matama stalks, along the left bank of the Makata proper, until
+farther progress was effectually prevented for that day by a deep bend
+of the river, which we should be obliged to cross the next day.
+
+Though but six miles were traversed during that miserable day, the march
+occupied ten hours.
+
+Half dead with fatigue, I yet could feel thankful that it was not
+accompanied by fever, which it seemed a miracle to avoid; for if ever a
+district was cursed with the ague, the Makata wilderness ranks foremost
+of those afflicted. Surely the sight of the dripping woods enveloped
+in opaque mist, of the inundated country with lengthy swathes of
+tiger-grass laid low by the turbid flood, of mounds of decaying trees
+and canes, of the swollen river and the weeping sky, was enough to
+engender the mukunguru! The well-used khambi, and the heaps of filth
+surrounding it, were enough to create a cholera!
+
+The Makata, a river whose breadth during the dry season is but forty
+feet, in the Masika season assumes the breadth, depth, and force of an
+important river. Should it happen to be an unusually rainy season, it
+inundates the great plain which stretches on either side, and converts
+it into a great lake. It is the main feeder of the Wami river, which
+empties into the sea between the ports of Saadani and Whinde. About ten
+miles north-east of the Makata crossing, the Great Makata, the Little
+Makata, a nameless creek, and the Rudewa river unite; and the river thus
+formed becomes known as the Wami. Throughout Usagara the Wami is known
+as the Mukondokwa. Three of these streams take their rise from the
+crescent-like Usagara range, which bounds the Makata plain south and
+south-westerly; while the Rudewa rises in the northern horn of the same
+range.
+
+So swift was the flow of the Makata, and so much did its unsteady
+bridge, half buried in the water, imperil the safety of the property,
+that its transfer from bank to bank occupied fully five hours. No sooner
+had we landed every article on the other side, undamaged by the water,
+than the rain poured down in torrents that drenched them all, as if they
+had been dragged through the river. To proceed through the swamp which
+an hour's rain had formed was utterly out of the question. We were
+accordingly compelled to camp in a place where every hour furnished its
+quota of annoyance. One of the Wangwana soldiers engaged at Bagamoyo,
+named Kingaru, improved an opportunity to desert with another Mgwana's
+kit. My two detectives, Uledi (Grant's valet), and Sarmean, were
+immediately despatched in pursuit, both being armed with American
+breech-loaders. They went about their task with an adroitness and
+celerity which augured well for their success. In an hour they returned
+with the runaway, having found him hidden in the house of a Mseguhha
+chief called Kigondo, who lived about a mile from the eastern bank of
+the river, and who had accompanied Uledi and Sarmean to receive his
+reward, and render an account of the incident.
+
+Kigondo said, when he had been seated, "I saw this man carrying a
+bundle, and running hard, by which I knew that he was deserting you. We
+(my wife and 1) were sitting in our little watch-hut, watching our corn;
+and, as the road runs close by, this man was obliged to come close to
+us. We called to him when he was near, saying, 'Master, where are you
+going so fast? Are you deserting the Musungu, for we know you belong to
+him, since you bought from us yesterday two doti worth of meat?' 'Yes,'
+said he, 'I am running away; I want to get to Simbamwenni. If you will
+take me there, I will give you a doti.' We said to him then, 'Come into
+our house, and we will talk it over quietly. When he was in our house
+in an inner room, we locked him up, and went out again to the watch; but
+leaving word with the women to look out for him. We knew that, if you
+wanted him, you would send askari (soldiers) after him. We had but
+lit our pipes when we saw two men armed with short guns, and having no
+loads, coming along the road, looking now and then on the ground, as
+if they were looking at footmarks. We knew them to be the men we were
+expecting; so we hailed them, and said, 'Masters, what are ye looking
+for?' \ They said, 'We are looking for a man who has deserted our
+master. Here are his footsteps. If you have been long in your hut you
+must have seen him, Can you tell us where he is?' We said, 'yes; he is
+in our house. If you will come with us, we will give him up to you; but
+your master must give us something for catching him.'"
+
+As Kigondo had promised to deliver Kingaru up, there remained nothing
+further to do for Uledi and Sarmean but to take charge of their
+prisoner, and bring him and his captors to my camp on the western bank
+of the Makata. Kingaru received two dozen lashes, and was chained; his
+captor a doti, besides five khete of red coral beads for his wife.
+
+That down-pour of rain which visited us the day we crossed the Makata
+proved the last of the Masika season. As the first rainfall which we had
+experienced occurred on the 23rd March, and the last on the 30th April,
+its duration was thirty-nine days. The seers of Bagamoyo had delivered
+their vaticinations concerning this same Masika with solemnity. "For
+forty days," said they, "rain would fall incessantly;" whereas we had
+but experienced eighteen days' rain. Nevertheless, we were glad that it
+was over, for we were tired of stopping day after day to dry the bales
+and grease the tools and ironware, and of seeing all things of cloth and
+leather rot visibly before our eyes.
+
+The 1st of May found us struggling through the mire and water of the
+Makata with a caravan bodily sick, from the exertion and fatigue of
+crossing so many rivers and wading through marshes. Shaw was still
+suffering from his first mukunguru; Zaidi, a soldier, was critically
+ill with the small-pox; the kichuma-chuma, "little irons," had hold
+of Bombay across the chest, rendering him the most useless of the
+unserviceables; Mabruk Saleem, a youth of lusty frame, following the
+example of Bombay, laid himself down on the marshy ground, professing
+his total inability to breast the Makata swamp; Abdul Kader, the Hindi
+tailor and adventurer--the weakliest of mortal bodies--was ever ailing
+for lack of "force," as he expressed it in French, i.e. "strength," ever
+indisposed to work, shiftless, mock-sick, but ever hungry. "Oh! God,"
+was the cry of my tired soul, "were all the men of my Expedition like
+this man I should be compelled to return." Solomon was wise perhaps
+from inspiration, perhaps from observation; I was becoming wise by
+experience, and I was compelled to observe that when mud and wet sapped
+the physical energy of the lazily-inclined, a dog-whip became their
+backs, restoring them to a sound--some-times to an extravagant activity.
+
+For thirty miles from our camp was the Makata plain an extensive swamp.
+The water was on an average one foot in depth; in some places we plunged
+into holes three, four, and even five feet deep. Plash, splash, plash,
+splash, were the only sounds we heard from the commencement of the march
+until we found the bomas occupying the only dry spots along the line of
+march. This kind of work continued for two days, until we came in sight
+of the Rudewa river, another powerful stream with banks brimful of
+rushing rain-water. Crossing a branch of the Rudewa, and emerging from
+the dank reedy grass crowding the western bank, the view consisted of
+an immense sheet of water topped by clumps of grass tufts and foliage of
+thinly scattered trees, bounded ten or twelve miles off by the eastern
+front of the Usagara mountain range. The acme of discomfort and vexation
+was realized on the five-mile march from the Rudewa branch. As myself
+and the Wangwana appeared with the loaded donkeys, the pagazis were
+observed huddled on a mound. When asked if the mound was the camp, they
+replied "No." "Why, then, do you stop here?"--"Ugh! water plenty!!" One
+drew a line across his loins to indicate the depth of water before us,
+another drew a line across his chest, another across his throat another
+held his hand over his head, by which he meant that we should have to
+swim. Swim five miles through a reedy marsh! It was impossible; it was
+also impossible that such varied accounts could all be correct. Without
+hesitation, therefore, I ordered the Wangwana to proceed with the
+animals. After three hours of splashing through four feet of water we
+reached dry land, and had traversed the swamp of Makata. But not without
+the swamp with its horrors having left a durable impression upon our
+minds; no one was disposed to forget its fatigues, nor the nausea of
+travel which it almost engendered. Subsequently, we had to remember its
+passage still more vividly, and to regret that we had undertaken the
+journey during the Masika season, when the animals died from this date
+by twos and threes, almost every day, until but five sickly worn-out
+beasts remained; when the Wangwana, soldiers, and pagazis sickened of
+diseases innumerable; when I myself was finally compelled to lie a-bed
+with an attack of acute dysentery which brought me to the verge of the
+grave. I suffered more, perhaps, than I might have done had I taken the
+proper medicine, but my over-confidence in that compound, called "Collis
+Brown's Chlorodyne," delayed the cure which ultimately resulted from a
+judicious use of Dover's powder. In no one single case of diarrhoea
+or acute dysentery had this "Chlorodyne," about which so much has been
+said, and written, any effect of lessening the attack whatever, though
+I used three bottles. To the dysentery contracted during, the transit of
+the Makata swamp, only two fell victims, and those were a pagazi and my
+poor little dog "Omar," my companion from India.
+
+The only tree of any prominence in the Makata valley was the Palmyra
+palm (Borassus flabelliformis), and this grew in some places in numbers
+sufficient to be called a grove; the fruit was not ripe while we passed,
+otherwise we might have enjoyed it as a novelty. The other vegetation
+consisted of the several species of thorn bush, and the graceful
+parachute-topped and ever-green mimosa.
+
+The 4th of May we were ascending a gentle slope towards the important
+village of Rehenneko, the first village near to which we encamped in
+Usagara. It lay at the foot of the mountain, and its plenitude and
+mountain air promised us comfort and health. It was a square, compact
+village, surrounded by a thick wall of mud, enclosing cone-topped huts,
+roofed with bamboo and holcus-stalks; and contained a population of
+about a thousand souls. It has several wealthy and populous neighbours,
+whose inhabitants are independent enough in their manner, but not
+unpleasantly so. The streams are of the purest water, fresh, and
+pellucid as crystal, bubbling over round pebbles and clean gravel, with
+a music delightful to hear to the traveller in search of such a sweetly
+potable element.
+
+The bamboo grows to serviceable size in the neighbourhood of Rehenneko,
+strong enough for tent and banghy poles; and in numbers sufficient to
+supply an army. The mountain slopes are densely wooded with trees that
+might supply very good timber for building purposes.
+
+We rested four days at this pleasant spot, to recruit ourselves, and to
+allow the sick and feeble time to recover a little before testing their
+ability in the ascent of the Usagara mountains.
+
+The 8th of May saw us with our terribly jaded men and animals winding up
+the steep slopes of the first line of hills; gaining the summit of which
+we obtained a view remarkably grand, which exhibited as in a master
+picture the broad valley of the Makata, with its swift streams like so
+many cords of silver, as the sunshine played on the unshadowed reaches
+of water, with its thousands of graceful palms adding not a little to
+the charm of the scene, with the great wall of the Uruguru and
+Uswapanga mountains dimly blue, but sublime in their loftiness and
+immensity--forming a fit background to such an extensive, far-embracing
+prospect.
+
+Turning our faces west, we found ourselves in a mountain world, fold
+rising above fold, peak behind peak, cone jostling cone; away to the
+north, to the west, to the south, the mountain tops rolled like so many
+vitrified waves; not one adust or arid spot was visible in all this
+scene. The diorama had no sudden changes or striking contrasts, for a
+universal forest of green trees clothed every peak, cone, and summit.
+
+To the men this first day's march through the mountain region of Usagara
+was an agreeable interlude after the successive journey over the flats
+and heavy undulations of the maritime region, but to the loaded and
+enfeebled animals it was most trying. We were minus two by the time
+we had arrived at our camp, but seven miles from Rehenneko, our first
+instalment of the debt we owed to Makata. Water, sweet and clear, was
+abundant in the deep hollows of the mountains, flowing sometimes over
+beds of solid granite, sometimes over a rich red sandstone, whose
+soft substance was soon penetrated by the aqueous element, and whose
+particles were swept away constantly to enrich the valley below; and in
+other ravines it dashed, and roared, miniature thunder, as it leaped
+over granite boulders and quartz rock.
+
+The 9th of May, after another such an up-and-down course, ascending
+hills and descending into the twilight depths of deepening valleys, we
+came suddenly upon the Mukondokwa, and its narrow pent-up valley crowded
+with rank reedy grass, cane, and thorny bushes; and rugged tamarisk
+which grappled for existence with monster convolvuli, winding their
+coils around their trunks with such tenacity and strength that the
+tamarisk seemed grown but for their support.
+
+The valley was barely a quarter of a mile broad in some places--at
+others it widened to about a mile. The hills on either side shot up into
+precipitous slopes, clothed with mimosa, acacia, and tamarisk,
+enclosing a river and valley whose curves and folds were as various as a
+serpent's.
+
+Shortly after debouching into the Mukondokwa valley, we struck the
+road traversed by Captains Buxton and Speke in 1857, between Mbumi and
+Kadetamare (the latter place should be called Misonghi, Kadetamare
+being but the name of a chief). After following the left bank of
+the Mukondokwa, during which our route diverged to every point from
+south-east to west, north and northeast, for about an hour, we came to
+the ford. Beyond the ford, a short half-hour's march, we came to Kiora.
+
+At this filthy village of Kiora, which was well-grounded with goat-dung,
+and peopled with a wonderful number of children for a hamlet that did
+not number twenty families, with a hot sun pouring on the limited open
+space, with a fury that exceeded 128 degrees Fahrenheit; which swarmed
+with flies and insects of known and unknown species; I found, as I had
+been previously informed, the third caravan, which had started out of
+Bagamoyo so well fitted and supplied. The leader, who was no other
+than the white man Farquhar, was sick-a-bed with swollen legs (Bright's
+disease), unable to move.
+
+As he heard my voice, Farquhar staggered out of his tent, so changed
+from my spruce mate who started from Bagamoyo, that I hardly knew him at
+first. His legs were ponderous, elephantine, since his leg-illness was
+of elephantiasis, or dropsy. His face was of a deathly pallor, for he
+had not been out of his tent for two weeks.
+
+A breezy hill, overlooking the village of Kiora, was chosen by me for
+my camping-ground, and as soon as the tents were pitched, the animals
+attended to, and a boma made of thorn bushes, Farquhar was carried up
+by four men into my tent. Upon being questioned as to the cause of his
+illness, he said he did not know what had caused it. He had no pain, he
+thought, anywhere. I asked, "Do you not sometimes feel pain on the right
+side?"--"Yes, I think I do; but I don't know."--"Nor over the left
+nipple sometimes--a quick throbbing, with a shortness of
+breath?"--"Yes, I think I have. I know I breathe quick sometimes." He
+said his only trouble was in the legs, which were swollen to an immense
+size. Though he had a sound appetite, he yet felt weak in the legs.
+
+From the scant information of the disease and its peculiarities, as
+given by Farquhar himself, I could only make out, by studying a little
+medical book I had with me, that "a swelling of the legs, and sometimes
+of the body, might result from either heart, liver, or kidney disease."
+But I did not know to what to ascribe the disease, unless it was to
+elephantiasis--a disease most common in Zanzibar; nor did I know how
+to treat it in a man who, could not tell me whether he felt pain in his
+head or in his back, in his feet or in his chest.
+
+It was therefore fortunate for me that I overtook him at Kiora; though
+he was about to prove a sore incumbrance to me, for he was not able to
+walk, and the donkey-carriage, after the rough experience of the Makata
+valley, was failing. I could not possibly leave him at Kiora, death
+would soon overtake him there; but how long I could convey a man in
+such a state, through a country devoid of carriage, was a question to be
+resolved by circumstances.
+
+On the 11th of May, the third and fifth caravans, now united, followed
+up the right bank of the Mukondokwa, through fields of holcus, the great
+Mukondokwa ranges rising in higher altitude as we proceeded west, and
+enfolding us in the narrow river valley round about. We left Muniyi
+Usagara on our right, and soon after found hill-spurs athwart our road,
+which we were obliged to ascend and descend.
+
+A march of eight miles from the ford of Misonghi brought us to another
+ford of the Mukondokwa, where we bid a long adieu to Burton's road,
+which led up to the Goma pass and up the steep slopes of Rubeho. Our
+road left the right bank and followed the left over a country quite
+the reverse of the Mukondokwa Valley, enclosed between mountain ranges.
+Fertile soils and spontaneous vegetation, reeking with miasma and
+overpowering from their odour, we had exchanged for a drouthy wilderness
+of aloetic and cactaceous plants, where the kolquall and several thorn
+bushes grew paramount.
+
+Instead of the tree-clad heights, slopes and valleys, instead of
+cultivated fields, we saw now the confines of uninhabited wilderness.
+The hill-tops were bared of their bosky crowns, and revealed their rocky
+natures bleached white by rain and sun. Nguru Peak, the loftiest of the
+Usagara cones, stood right shoulderwards of us as we ascended the long
+slope of dun-grey soil which rose beyond the brown Mukondokwa on the
+left.
+
+At the distance of two miles from the last ford, we found a neat khambi,
+situated close to the river, where it first broke into a furious rapid.
+
+The next morning the caravan was preparing for the march, when I was
+informed that the "Bana Mdogo"--little master--Shaw, had not yet arrived
+with the cart, and the men in charge of it. Late the previous night I
+had despatched one donkey for Shaw, who had said he was too ill to walk,
+and another for the load that was on the cart; and had retired satisfied
+that they would soon arrive. My conclusion, when I learned in the
+morning that the people had not yet come in, was that Shaw was not aware
+that for five days we should have to march through a wilderness totally
+uninhabited. I therefore despatched Chowpereh, a Mgwana soldier, with
+the following note to him:--"You will, upon receipt of this order pitch
+the cart into the nearest ravine, gully, or river, as well as all the
+extra pack saddles; and come at once, for God's sake, for we must not
+starve here!"
+
+One, two, three, and four hours were passed by me in the utmost
+impatience, waiting, but in vain, for Shaw. Having a long march before
+us, I could wait no longer, but went to meet his party myself. About a
+quarter of mile from the ford I met the van of the laggards--stout
+burly Chowpereh--and, O cartmakers, listen! he carried the cart on his
+head--wheels, shafts, body, axle, and all complete; he having found that
+carrying it was much easier than drawing it. The sight was such a damper
+to my regard for it as an experiment, that the cart was wheeled into the
+depths of the tall reeds, and there left. The central figure was Shaw
+himself, riding at a gait which seemed to leave it doubtful on my mind
+whether he or his animal felt most sleepy. Upon expostulating with him
+for keeping the caravan so long waiting when there was a march on hand,
+in a most peculiar voice--which he always assumed when disposed to be
+ugly-tempered--he said he had done the best he could; but as I had
+seen the solemn pace at which he rode, I felt dubious about his best
+endeavours; and of course there was a little scene, but the young
+European mtongi of an East African expedition must needs sup with the
+fellows he has chosen.
+
+We arrived at Madete at 4 P.M., minus two donkeys, which had stretched
+their weary limbs in death. We had crossed the Mukondokwa about 3 P.M.,
+and after taking its bearings and course, I made sure that its rise took
+place near a group of mountains about forty miles north by west of Nguru
+Peak. Our road led W.N.W., and at this place finally diverged from the
+river.
+
+On the 14th, after a march of seven miles over hills whose sandstone
+and granite formation cropped visibly here and there above the surface,
+whose stony and dry aspect seemed reflected in every bush and plant, and
+having gained an altitude of about eight hundred feet above the flow
+of the Mukondokwa, we sighted the Lake of Ugombo--a grey sheet of water
+lying directly at the foot of the hill, from whose summit we gazed at
+the scene. The view was neither beautiful nor pretty, but what I should
+call refreshing; it afforded a pleasant relief to the eyes fatigued
+from dwelling on the bleak country around. Besides, the immediate
+neighbourhood of the lake was too tame to call forth any enthusiasm;
+there were no grandly swelling mountains, no smiling landscapes--nothing
+but a dun-brown peak, about one thousand feet high above the surface of
+the lake at its western extremity, from which the lake derived its name,
+Ugombo; nothing but a low dun-brown irregular range, running parallel
+with its northern shore at the distance of a mile; nothing but a low
+plain stretching from its western shore far away towards the Mpwapwa
+Mountains and Marenga Mkali, then apparent to us from our coign of
+vantage, from which extensive scene of dun-brownness we were glad to
+rest our eyes on the quiet grey water beneath.
+
+Descending from the summit of the range, which bounded the lake east for
+about four hundred feet, we travelled along the northern shore. The time
+occupied in the journey from the eastern to the western extremity was
+exactly one hour and thirty minutes.
+
+As this side represents its greatest length I conclude that the lake is
+three miles long by two miles greatest breadth. The immediate shores of
+the lake on all sides, for at least fifty feet from the water's edge,
+is one impassable morass nourishing rank reeds and rushes, where the
+hippopotamus' ponderous form has crushed into watery trails the soft
+composition of the morass as he passes from the lake on his nocturnal
+excursions; the lesser animals; such as the "mbogo" (buffalo), the
+"punda-terra" (zebra); the "twiga" (giraffe), the boar, the kudu, the
+hyrax or coney and the antelope; come here also to quench their thirst
+by night. The surface of the lake swarms with an astonishing variety of
+water-fowl; such as black swan, duck, ibis sacra cranes, pelicans; and
+soaring above on the look-out for their prey are fish-eagles and
+hawks, while the neighbourhood is resonant with the loud chirps of the
+guinea-fowls calling for their young, with the harsh cry of the toucan,
+the cooing of the pigeon, and the "to-whit, to-whoo" of the owl. From
+the long grass in its vicinity also issue the grating and loud cry of
+the florican, woodcock, and grouse.
+
+Being obliged to halt here two days, owing to the desertion of the Hindi
+cooper Jako with one of my best carbines, I improved the opportunity
+of exploring the northern and southern shores of the lake. At the rocky
+foot of a low, humpy hill on the northern side, about fifteen feet
+above the present surface of the water I detected in most distinct and
+definite lines the agency of waves. From its base could be traced clear
+to the edge of the dank morass tiny lines of comminuted shell as plainly
+marked as the small particles which lie in rows on a beech after a
+receding tide. There is no doubt that the wave-marks on the sandstone
+might have been traced much higher by one skilled in geology; it was
+only its elementary character that was visible to me. Nor do I entertain
+the least doubt, after a two days' exploration of the neighbourhood,
+especially of the low plain at the western end, that this Lake of Ugombo
+is but the tail of what was once a large body of water equal in extent
+to the Tanganika; and, after ascending half way up Ugombo Peak, this
+opinion was confirmed when I saw the long-depressed line of plain at
+its base stretching towards the Mpwapwa Mountains thirty miles off, and
+thence round to Marenga Mkali, and covering all that extensive surface
+of forty miles in breadth, and an unknown length. A depth of twelve feet
+more, I thought, as I gazed upon it, would give the lake a length
+of thirty miles, and a breadth of ten. A depth of thirty feet would
+increase its length over a hundred miles, and give it a breadth of
+fifty, for such was the level nature of the plain that stretched west
+of Ugombo, and north of Marenga Mkali. Besides the water of the lake
+partook slightly of the bitter nature of the Matamombo creek, distant
+fifteen miles, and in a still lesser degree of that of Marenga Mkali,
+forty miles off.
+
+Towards the end of the first day of our halt the Hindi cooper Jako
+arrived in camp, alleging as an excuse, that feeling fatigued he had
+fallen asleep in some bushes a few feet from the roadside. Having been
+the cause of our detention in the hungry wilderness of Ugombo, I was
+not in a frame of mind to forgive him; so, to prevent any future truant
+tricks on his part, I was under the necessity of including him with the
+chained gangs of runaways.
+
+Two more of our donkeys died, and to prevent any of the valuable
+baggage being left behind, I was obliged to send Farquhar off on my own
+riding-ass to the village of Mpwapwa, thirty miles off, under charge of
+Mabruki Burton.
+
+To save the Expedition from ruin, I was reluctantly compelled to come to
+the conclusion that it were better for me, for him, and concerned, that
+he be left with some kind chief of a village, with a six months'
+supply of cloth and beads, until he got well, than that he make his own
+recovery impossible.
+
+The 16th of May saw us journeying over the plain which lies between
+Ugombo and Mpwapwa, skirting close, at intervals, a low range of
+trap-rock, out of which had become displaced by some violent agency
+several immense boulders. On its slopes grew the kolquall to a size
+which I had not seen in Abyssinia. In the plain grew baobab, and immense
+tamarind, and a variety of thorn.
+
+Within five hours from Ugombo the mountain range deflected towards the
+north-east, while we continued on a north-westerly course, heading for
+the lofty mountain-line of the Mpwapwa. To our left towered to the blue
+clouds the gigantic Rubeho. The adoption of this new road to Unyanyembe
+by which we were travelling was now explained--we were enabled to
+avoid the passes and stiff steeps of Rubeho, and had nothing worse to
+encounter than a broad smooth plain, which sloped gently to Ugogo.
+
+After a march of fifteen miles we camped at a dry mtoni, called
+Matamombo, celebrated for its pools of bitter water of the colour
+of ochre. Monkeys and rhinoceroses, besides kudus, steinboks, and
+antelopes, were numerous in the vicinity. At this camp my little dog
+"Omar" died of inflammation of the bowels, almost on the threshold of
+the country--Ugogo--where his faithful watchfulness would have been
+invaluable to me.
+
+The next day's march was also fifteen miles in length, through one
+interminable jungle of thorn-bushes. Within two miles of the camp, the
+road led up a small river bed, broad as an avenue, clear to the khambi
+of Mpwapwa; which was situated close to a number of streams of the
+purest water.
+
+The following morning found us much fatigued after the long marches
+from Ugombo, and generally disposed to take advantage of the precious
+luxuries Mpwapwa offered to caravans fresh from the fly-plagued lands
+of the Waseguhha and Wadoe. Sheikh Thani--clever but innocently-speaking
+old Arab--was encamped under the grateful umbrage of a huge Mtamba
+sycamore, and had been regaling himself with fresh milk, luscious
+mutton, and rich bullock humps, ever since his arrival here, two days
+before; and, as he informed me, it did not suit his views to quit such
+a happy abundance so soon for the saline nitrous water of Marenga Mkali,
+with its several terekezas, and manifold disagreeables. "No!" said he to
+me, emphatically, "better stop here two or three days, give your tired
+animals some rest; collect all the pagazis you can, fill your inside
+with fresh milk, sweet potatoes, beef, mutton, ghee, honey, beans,
+matama, maweri, and nuts;--then, Inshallah! we shall go together through
+Ugogo without stopping anywhere." As the advice tallied accurately with
+my own desired and keen appetite for the good things he named, he had
+not long to wait for my assent to his counsel. "Ugogo," continued he,
+"is rich with milk and honey--rich in flour, beans and almost every
+eatable thing; and, Inshallah! before another week is gone we shall be
+in Ugogo!"
+
+I had heard from passing caravans so many extremely favourable reports
+respecting Ugogo and its productions that it appeared to me a very Land
+of Promise, and I was most anxious to refresh my jaded stomach with some
+of the precious esculents raised in Ugogo; but when I heard that Mpwapwa
+also furnished some of those delicate eatables, and good things, most of
+the morning hours were spent in inducing the slow-witted people to part
+with them; and when, finally, eggs, milk, honey, mutton, ghee, ground
+matama and beans had been collected in sufficient quantities to produce
+a respectable meal, my keenest attention and best culinary talents were
+occupied for a couple of hours in converting this crude supply into
+a breakfast which could be accepted by and befit a stomach at once
+fastidious and famished, such as mine was. The subsequent healthy
+digestion of it proved my endeavours to have been eminently successful.
+At the termination of this eventful day, the following remark was jotted
+down in my diary: "Thank God! After fifty-seven days of living
+upon matama porridge and tough goat, I have enjoyed with unctuous
+satisfaction a real breakfast and dinner."
+
+It was in one of the many small villages which are situated upon the
+slopes of the Mpwapwa that a refuge and a home for Farquhar was found
+until he should be enabled by restored health to start to join us at
+Unyanyembe.
+
+Food was plentiful and of sufficient variety to suit the most
+fastidious--cheap also, much cheaper than we had experienced for many
+a day. Leucole, the chief of the village, with whom arrangements for
+Farquhar's protection and comfort were made, was a little old man of
+mild eye and very pleasing face, and on being informed that it was
+intended to leave the Musungu entirely under his charge, suggested that
+some man should be left to wait on him, and interpret his wishes to his
+people.
+
+As Jako was the only one who could speak English, except Bombay and
+Selim, Jako was appointed, and the chief Leucole was satisfied. Six
+months' provisions of white beads, Merikani and Kaniki cloth, together
+with two doti of handsome cloth to serve as a present to Leucole after
+his recovery, were taken to Farquhar by Bombay, together with a Starr's
+carbine, 300 rounds of cartridge, a set of cooking pots, and 3 lbs. of
+tea.
+
+Abdullah bin Nasib, who was found encamped here with five hundred
+pagazis, and a train of Arab and Wasawahili satellites, who revolved
+around his importance, treated me in somewhat the same manner that Hamed
+bin Sulayman treated Speke at Kasenge. Followed by his satellites, he
+came (a tall nervous-looking man, of fifty or thereabouts) to see me in
+my camp, and asked me if I wished to purchase donkeys. As all my animals
+were either sick or moribund, I replied very readily in the affirmative,
+upon which he graciously said he would sell me as many as I wanted, and
+for payment I could give him a draft on Zanzibar. I thought him a very
+considerate and kind person, fully justifying the encomiums lavished
+on him in Burton's 'Lake Regions of Central Africa,' and accordingly I
+treated him with the consideration due to so great and good a man. The
+morrow came, and with it went Abdullah bin Nasib, or "Kisesa," as he is
+called by the Wanyamwezi, with all his pagazis, his train of followers,
+and each and every one of his donkeys, towards Bagamoyo, without so much
+as giving a "Kwaheri," or good-bye.
+
+At this place there are generally to be found from ten to thirty pagazis
+awaiting up-caravans. I was fortunate enough to secure twelve good
+people, who, upon my arrival at Unyanyembe, without an exception,
+voluntarily engaged themselves as carriers to Ujiji. With the formidable
+marches of Marenga Mkali in front, I felt thankful for this happy
+windfall, which resolved the difficulties I had been anticipating; for
+I had but ten donkeys left, and four of these were so enfeebled that
+they were worthless as baggage animals.
+
+Mpwapwa--so called by the Arabs, who have managed to corrupt almost
+every native word--is called "Mbambwa" by the Wasagara. It is a mountain
+range rising over 6,000 feet above the sea, bounding on the north the
+extensive plain which commences at Ugombo lake, and on the east that
+part of the plain which is called Marenga Mkali, which stretches away
+beyond the borders of Uhumba. Opposite Mpwapwa, at the distance of
+thirty miles or so, rises the Anak peak of Rubeho, with several other
+ambitious and tall brethren cresting long lines of rectilinear scarps,
+which ascend from the plain of Ugombo and Marenga Mkali as regularly as
+if they had been chiselled out by the hands of generations of masons and
+stonecutters.
+
+Upon looking at Mpwapwa's greenly-tinted slopes, dark with many
+a densely-foliaged tree; its many rills flowing sweet and clear,
+nourishing besides thick patches of gum and thorn bush, giant sycamore
+and parachute-topped mimosa, and permitting my imagination to picture
+sweet views behind the tall cones above, I was tempted to brave the
+fatigue of an ascent to the summit. Nor was my love for the picturesque
+disappointed. One sweep of the eyes embraced hundreds of square miles
+of plain and mountain, from Ugombo Peak away to distant Ugogo, and
+from Rubeho and Ugogo to the dim and purple pasture lands of the wild,
+untamable Wahumba. The plain of Ugombo and its neighbour of Marenga
+Mkali, apparently level as a sea, was dotted here and there with
+"hillocks dropt in Nature's careless haste," which appeared like islands
+amid the dun and green expanse. Where the jungle was dense the colour
+was green, alternating with dark brown; where the plain appeared denuded
+of bush and brake it had a whity-brown appearance, on which the passing
+clouds now and again cast their deep shadows. Altogether this side
+of the picture was not inviting; it exhibited too plainly the true
+wilderness in its sternest aspect; but perhaps the knowledge that in the
+bosom of the vast plain before me there was not one drop of water but
+was bitter as nitre, and undrinkable as urine, prejudiced me against
+it, The hunter might consider it a paradise, for in its depths were
+all kinds of game to attract his keenest instincts; but to the mere
+traveller it had a stern outlook. Nearer, however, to the base of the
+Mpwapwa the aspect of the plain altered. At first the jungle thinned,
+openings in the wood appeared, then wide and naked clearings, then
+extensive fields of the hardy holcus, Indian corn, and maweri or bajri,
+with here and there a square tembe or village. Still nearer ran thin
+lines of fresh young grass, great trees surrounded a patch of alluvial
+meadow. A broad river-bed, containing several rivulets of water, ran
+through the thirsty fields, conveying the vivifying element which in
+this part of Usagara was so scarce and precious. Down to the river-bed
+sloped the Mpwapwa, roughened in some places by great boulders of
+basalt, or by rock masses, which had parted from a precipitous scarp,
+where clung the kolquall with a sure hold, drawing nourishment where
+every other green thing failed; clad in others by the hardy mimosa,
+which rose like a sloping bank of green verdure almost to the summit.
+And, happy sight to me so long a stranger to it, there were hundreds of
+cattle grazing, imparting a pleasing animation to the solitude of the
+deep folds of the mountain range.
+
+But the fairest view was obtained by looking northward towards the dense
+group of mountains which buttressed the front range, facing towards
+Rubeho. It was the home of the winds, which starting here and sweeping
+down the precipitous slopes and solitary peaks on the western side,
+and gathering strength as they rushed through the prairie-like Marenga
+Mkali, howled through Ugogo and Unyamwezi with the force of a storm,
+It was also the home of the dews, where sprang the clear springs which
+cheered by their music the bosky dells below, and enriched the populous
+district of Mpwapwa. One felt better, stronger, on this breezy height,
+drinking in the pure air and feasting the eyes on such a varied
+landscape as it presented, on spreading plateaus green as lawns, on
+smooth rounded tops, on mountain vales containing recesses which
+might charm a hermit's soul, on deep and awful ravines where reigned
+a twilight gloom, on fractured and riven precipices, on huge
+fantastically-worn boulders which overtopped them, on picturesque tracts
+which embraced all that was wild, and all that was poetical in Nature.
+
+Mpwapwa, though the traveller from the coast will feel grateful for the
+milk it furnished after being so long deprived of it, will be kept in
+mind as a most remarkable place for earwigs. In my tent they might
+be counted by thousands; in my slung cot they were by hundreds; on my
+clothes they were by fifties; on my neck and head they were by scores.
+The several plagues of locusts, fleas, and lice sink into utter
+insignificance compared with this fearful one of earwigs. It is true
+they did not bite, and they did not irritate the cuticle, but what their
+presence and numbers suggested was something so horrible that it drove
+one nearly insane to think of it. Who will come to East Africa without
+reading the experiences of Burton and Speke? Who is he that having read
+them will not remember with horror the dreadful account given by Speke
+of his encounters with these pests? My intense nervous watchfulness
+alone, I believe, saved me from a like calamity.
+
+Second to the earwigs in importance and in numbers were the white
+ants, whose powers of destructiveness were simply awful. Mats, cloth,
+portmanteaus, clothes, in short, every article I possessed, seemed on
+the verge of destruction, and, as I witnessed their voracity, I felt
+anxious lest my tent should be devoured while I slept. This was the
+first khambi since leaving the coast where their presence became a
+matter of anxiety; at all other camping places hitherto the red and
+black ants had usurped our attention, but at Mpwapwa the red species
+were not seen, while the black were also very scarce.
+
+After a three days' halt at Mpwapwa I decided of a march to Marenga
+Mkali, which should be uninterrupted until we reached Mvumi in Ugogo,
+where I should be inducted into the art of paying tribute to the Wagogo
+chiefs. The first march to Kisokweh was purposely made short, being
+barely four miles, in order to enable Sheikh Thani, Sheikh Hamed, and
+five or six Wasawahili caravans to come up with me at Chunyo on the
+confines of Marenga Mkali.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII. -- MARENGA MKALI, UGOGO, AND UYANZI, TO UNYANYEMBE.
+
+     Mortality amongst the baggage animals.--The contumacious
+     Wagogo--Mobs of Maenads.--Tribute paying.--Necessity of
+     prudence.--Oration of the guide.--The genuine "Ugogians."--
+     Vituperative power.--A surprised chief.--The famous
+     Mizanza.--Killing hyaenas.--The Greeks and Romans of
+     Africa.--A critical moment.--The "elephant's back."--The
+     wilderness of Ukimbu.--End of the first stage of the
+     search.--Arrival at Unyanyembe.
+
+
+The 22nd of May saw Thani and Hamed's caravans united with my own at
+Chunyo, three and a half hours' march from Mpwapwa. The road from the
+latter place ran along the skirts of the Mpwapwa range; at three or four
+places it crossed outlying spurs that stood isolated from the main body
+of the range. The last of these hill spurs, joined by an elevated cross
+ridge to the Mpwapwa, shelters the tembe of Chunyo, situated on the
+western face, from the stormy gusts that come roaring down the steep
+slopes. The water of Chunyo is eminently bad, in fact it is its
+saline-nitrous nature which has given the name Marenga Mkali--bitter
+water--to the wilderness which separates Usagara from Ugogo. Though
+extremely offensive to the palate, Arabs and the natives drink it
+without fear, and without any bad results; but they are careful to
+withhold their baggage animals from the pits. Being ignorant of its
+nature, and not exactly understanding what precise location was meant
+by Marenga Mkali, I permitted the donkeys to be taken to water, as usual
+after a march; and the consequence was calamitous in the extreme. What
+the fearful swamp of Makata had spared, the waters of Marenga Mkali
+destroyed. In less than five days after our departure from Chunyo or
+Marenga Mali, five out of the nine donkeys left to me at the time--the
+five healthiest animals--fell victims.
+
+We formed quite an imposing caravan as we emerged from inhospitable
+Chunyo, in number amounting to about four hundred souls. We were strong
+in guns, flags, horns, sounding drums and noise. To Sheikh Hamed, by
+permission of Sheikh Thani, and myself was allotted the task of guiding
+and leading this great caravan through dreaded Ugogo; which was a most
+unhappy selection, as will be seen hereafter.
+
+Marenga Mali, over thirty miles across, was at last before us. This
+distance had to be traversed within thirty-six hours, so that the
+fatigue of the ordinary march would be more than doubled by this.
+From Chunyo to Ugogo not one drop of water was to be found. As a
+large caravan, say over two hundred souls, seldom travels over one and
+three-quarter miles per hour, a march of thirty miles would require
+seventeen hours of endurance without water and but little rest. East
+Africa generally possessing unlimited quantities of water, caravans
+have not been compelled for lack of the element to have recourse to
+the mushok of India and the khirbeh of Egypt. Being able to cross the
+waterless districts by a couple of long marches, they content themselves
+for the time with a small gourdful, and with keeping their imaginations
+dwelling upon the copious quantities they will drink upon arrival at the
+watering-place.
+
+The march through this waterless district was most monotonous, and a
+dangerous fever attacked me, which seemed to eat into my very vitals.
+The wonders of Africa that bodied themselves forth in the shape of
+flocks of zebras, giraffes, elands, or antelopes, galloping over the
+jungleless plain, had no charm for me; nor could they serve to draw my
+attention from the severe fit of sickness which possessed me. Towards
+the end of the first march I was not able to sit upon the donkey's back;
+nor would it do, when but a third of the way across the wilderness, to
+halt until the next day; soldiers were therefore detailed to carry me in
+a hammock, and, when the terekeza was performed in the afternoon, I lay
+in a lethargic state, unconscious of all things. With the night passed
+the fever, and, at 3 o'clock in the morning, when the march was resumed,
+I was booted and spurred, and the recognized mtongi of my caravan once
+more. At 8 A.M. we had performed the thirty-two miles. The wilderness
+of Marenga Mkali had been passed and we had entered Ugogo, which was at
+once a dreaded land to my caravan, and a Land of Promise to myself.
+
+The transition from the wilderness into this Promised Land was very
+gradual and easy. Very slowly the jungle thinned, the cleared land was
+a long time appearing, and when it had finally appeared, there were no
+signs of cultivation until we could clearly make out the herbage and
+vegetation on some hill slopes to our right running parallel with
+our route, then we saw timber on the hills, and broad acreage under
+cultivation--and, lo! as we ascended a wave of reddish earth covered
+with tall weeds and cane, but a few feet from us, and directly across
+our path, were the fields of matama and grain we had been looking for,
+and Ugogo had been entered an hour before.
+
+The view was not such as I expected. I had imagined a plateau several
+hundred feet higher than Marenga Mkali, and an expansive view which
+should reveal Ugogo and its characteristics at once. But instead, while
+travelling from the tall weeds which covered the clearing which had
+preceded the cultivated parts, we had entered into the depths of the
+taller matama stalks, and, excepting some distant hills near Mvumi,
+where the Great Sultan lived--the first of the tribe to whom we should
+pay tribute--the view was extremely limited.
+
+However, in the neighbourhood of the first village a glimpse at some
+of the peculiar features of Ugogo was obtained, and there was a vast
+plain--now flat, now heaving upwards, here level as a table, there
+tilted up into rugged knolls bristling with scores of rough boulders of
+immense size, which lay piled one above another as if the children of a
+Titanic race had been playing at house-building. Indeed, these piles of
+rounded, angular, and riven rock formed miniature hills of themselves;
+and appeared as if each body had been ejected upwards by some violent
+agency beneath. There was one of these in particular, near Mvumi, which
+was so large, and being slightly obscured from view by the outspreading
+branches of a gigantic baobab, bore such a strong resemblance to a
+square tower of massive dimensions, that for a long time I cherished
+the idea that I had discovered something most interesting which had
+strangely escaped the notice of my predecessors in East Africa. A nearer
+view dispelled the illusion, and proved it to be a huge cube of rock,
+measuring about forty feet each way. The baobabs were also particularly
+conspicuous on this scene, no other kind of tree being visible in the
+cultivated parts. These had probably been left for two reasons: first,
+want of proper axes for felling trees of such enormous growth; secondly,
+because during a famine the fruit of the baobab furnishes a flour which,
+in the absence of anything better, is said to be eatable and nourishing.
+
+The first words I heard in Ugogo were from a Wagogo elder, of sturdy
+form, who in an indolent way tended the flocks, but showed a marked
+interest in the stranger clad in white flannels, with a Hawkes' patent
+cork solar topee on his head, a most unusual thing in Ugogo, who came
+walking past him, and there were "Yambo, Musungu, Yambo, bana, bana,"
+delivered with a voice loud enough to make itself heard a full mile
+away. No sooner had the greeting been delivered than the word "Musungu"
+seemed to electrify his entire village; and the people of other
+villages, situated at intervals near the road, noting the excitement
+that reigned at the first, also participated in the general frenzy which
+seemed suddenly to have possessed them. I consider my progress from
+the first village to Mvumi to have been most triumphant; for I was
+accompanied by a furious mob of men, women, and children, all almost as
+naked as Mother Eve when the world first dawned upon her in the garden
+of Eden, fighting, quarrelling, jostling, staggering against each other
+for the best view of the white man, the like of whom was now seen for
+the first time in this part of Ugogo. The cries of admiration, such as
+"Hi-le!" which broke often and in confused uproar upon my ear, were not
+gratefully accepted, inasmuch as I deemed many of them impertinent. A
+respectful silence and more reserved behaviour would have won my
+esteem; but, ye powers, who cause etiquette to be observed in Usungu,*
+respectful silence, reserved behaviour, and esteem are terms unknown
+in savage Ugogo. Hitherto I had compared myself to a merchant of Bagdad
+travelling among the Kurds of Kurdistan, selling his wares of Damascus
+silk, kefiyehs, &c.; but now I was compelled to lower my standard, and
+thought myself not much better than a monkey in a zoological collection.
+One of my soldiers requested them to lessen their vociferous noise;
+but the evil-minded race ordered him to shut up, as a thing unworthy to
+speak to the Wagogo! When I imploringly turned to the Arabs for counsel
+in this strait, old Sheikh Thani, always worldly wise, said, "Heed them
+not; they are dogs who bite besides barking." -------- *
+White man's land. --------
+
+At 9 A.M. we were in our boma, near Mvumi village; but here also crowds
+of Wagogo came to catch a glimpse of the Musungu, whose presence was
+soon made known throughout the district of Mvumi. But two hours later I
+was oblivious of their endeavours to see me; for, despite repeated doses
+of quinine, the mukunguru had sure hold of me.
+
+The next day was a march of eight miles, from East Mvumi to West Mvumi,
+where lived the Sultan of the district. The quantity and variety
+of provisions which arrived at our boma did not belie the reports
+respecting the productions of Ugogo. Milk, sour and sweet, honey, beans,
+matama, maweri, Indian corn, ghee, pea-nuts, and a species of bean-nut
+very like a large pistachio or an almond, water-melons, pumpkins,
+mush-melons, and cucumbers were brought, and readily exchanged for
+Merikani, Kaniki, and for the white Merikani beads and Sami-Sami, or
+Sam-Sam. The trade and barter which progressed in the camp from morning
+till night reminded me of the customs existing among the Gallas and
+Abyssinians. Eastward, caravans were obliged to despatch men with cloth,
+to purchase from the villagers. This was unnecessary in Ugogo, where the
+people voluntarily brought every vendible they possessed to the camp.
+The smallest breadth of white or blue cloth became saleable and useful
+in purchasing provisions--even a loin-cloth worn threadbare.
+
+The day after our march was a halt. We had fixed this day for bearing
+the tribute to the Great Sultan of Mvumi. Prudent and cautious Sheikh
+Thani early began this important duty, the omission of which would have
+been a signal for war. Hamed and Thani sent two faithful slaves, well
+up to the eccentricities of the Wagogo sultans--well spoken, having glib
+tongues and the real instinct for trade as carried on amongst
+Orientals. They bore six doti of cloths, viz., one doti of Dabwani
+Ulyah contributed by myself, also one doti of Barsati from me, two doti
+Merikani Satine from Sheikh Thani, and two doti of Kaniki from Sheikh
+Hamed, as a first instalment of the tribute. The slaves were absent a
+full hour, but having wasted their powers of pleading, in vain, they
+returned with the demand for more, which Sheikh Thani communicated to me
+in this wise:
+
+"Auf! this Sultan is a very bad man--a very bad man indeed; he says, the
+Musungu is a great man, I call him a sultan; the Musungu is very rich,
+for he has several caravans already gone past; the Musungu must pay
+forty doti, and the Arabs must pay twelve doti each, for they have rich
+caravans. It is of no use for you to tell me you are all one caravan,
+otherwise why so many flags and tents? Go and bring me sixty doti, with
+less I will not be satisfied."
+
+I suggested to Sheikh Thani, upon hearing this exorbitant demand, that
+had I twenty Wasungu* armed with Winchester repeating rifles, the Sultan
+might be obliged to pay tribute to me; but Thani prayed and begged me to
+be cautious lest angry words might irritate the Sultan and cause him to
+demand a double tribute, as he was quite capable of doing so; "and if
+you preferred war," said he, "your pagazis would all desert, and leave
+you and your cloth to the small mercy of the Wagogo." But I hastened to
+allay his fears by telling Bombay, in his presence, that I had foreseen
+such demands on the part of the Wagogo, and that having set aside one
+hundred and twenty doti of honga cloths, I should not consider myself a
+sufferer if the Sultan demanded and I paid forty cloths to him; that he
+must therefore open the honga bale, and permit Sheikh Thani to extract
+such cloths as the Sultan might like.
+
+Sheikh Thani, having put on the cap of consideration and joined heads
+with Hamed and the faithful serviles, thought if I paid twelve doti,
+out of which three should be of Ulyah+ quality, that the Sultan might
+possibly condescend to accept our tribute; supposing he was persuaded
+by the oratorical words of the "Faithfuls," that the Musungu had nothing
+with him but the mashiwa (boat), which would be of no use to him, come
+what might,--with which prudent suggestion the Musungu concurred, seeing
+its wisdom.
+
+     * White men.
+
+     + Best, or superior.
+
+The slaves departed, bearing this time from our boma thirty doti, with
+our best wishes for their success. In an hour they returned with empty
+hands, but yet unsuccessful. The Sultan demanded six doti of Merikani,
+and a fundo of bubu, from the Musungu; and from the Arabs and other
+caravans, twelve doti more. For the third time the slaves departed for
+the Sultan's tembe, carrying with them six doti Merikani and a fundo of
+bubu from myself, and ten doti from the Arabs. Again they returned to
+us with the Sultan's words, "That, as the doti of the Musungu were short
+measure, and the cloths of the Arabs of miserable quality, the Musungu
+must send three doti full measure, and the Arabs five doti of
+Kaniki." My three doti were at once measured out with the longest
+fore-arm--according to Kigogo measure--and sent off by Bombay; but the
+Arabs, almost in despair, declared they would be ruined if they gave way
+to such demands, and out of the five doti demanded sent only two, with a
+pleading to the Sultan that he would consider what was paid as just and
+fair Muhongo, and not ask any more. But the Sultan of Mvumi was by no
+means disposed to consider any such proposition, but declared he must
+have three doti, and these to be two of Ulyah cloth, and one Kitambi
+Barsati, which, as he was determined to obtain, were sent to him heavy
+with the deep maledictions of Sheikh Hamed and the despairing sighs of
+sheikh Thani.
+
+Altogether the sultanship of a district in Ugogo must be very
+remunerative, besides being a delightful sinecure, so long as the Sultan
+has to deal with timid Arab merchants who fear to exhibit anything
+approaching to independence and self-reliance, lest they might
+be mulcted in cloth. In one day from one camp the sultan received
+forty-seven doti, consisting of Merikani, Kaniki, Barsati, and Dabwani,
+equal to $35.25, besides seven doti of superior cloths, consisting of
+Rehani, Sohari, and Daobwani Ulyah, and one fundo of Bubu, equal to
+$14.00, making a total of $49.25--a most handsome revenue for a Mgogo
+chief.
+
+On the 27th May we gladly shook the dust of Mvumi from our feet, and
+continued on our route--ever westward. Five of my donkeys had died the
+night before, from the effects of the water of Marenga Mkali. Before
+leaving the camp of Mvumi, I went to look at their carcases; but found
+them to have been clean picked by the hyaenas, and the bones taken
+possession of by an army of white-necked crows.
+
+As we passed the numerous villages, and perceived the entire face of
+the land to be one vast field of grain, and counted the people halted
+by scores on the roadside to feast their eyes with a greedy stare on the
+Musungu, I no longer wondered at the extortionate demands of the Wagogo.
+For it was manifest that they had but to stretch out their hands to
+possess whatever the wealth of a caravan consisted of; and I began to
+think better of the people who, knowing well their strength, did not
+use it--of people who were intellectual enough to comprehend that their
+interest lay in permitting the caravans to pass on without attempting
+any outrage.
+
+Between Mvumi and the nest Sultan's district, that of Matamburu, I
+counted no less than twenty-five villages, scattered over the clayey,
+coloured plain. Despite the inhospitable nature of the plain, it was
+better cultivated than any part of any other country we had seen since
+leaving Bagamoyo.
+
+When we had at last arrived at our boma of Matamburu, the same groups of
+curious people, the same eager looks, the same exclamations of surprise,
+the same, peals of laughter, at something they deemed ludicrous in the
+Musungu's dress or manner, awaited us, as at Mvumi. The Arabs being
+"Wakonongo" travellers, whom they saw every day, enjoyed a complete
+immunity from the vexations which we had to endure.
+
+The Sultan of Matamburu, a man of herculean form, and massive head well
+set on shoulders that might vie with those of Milo, proved to be a very
+reasonable person. Not quite so powerful as the Sultan of Mvumi, he yet
+owned a fair share of Ugogo and about forty villages, and could, if he
+chose, have oppressed the mercantile souls of my Arab companions, in
+the same way as he of Mvumi. Four doti of cloth were taken to him as a
+preliminary offering to his greatness, which he said he would accept, if
+the Arabs and Musungu would send him four more. As his demands were
+so reasonable, this little affair was soon terminated to everybody's
+satisfaction; and soon after, the kirangozi of Sheikh Hamed sounded the
+signal for the morrow's march.
+
+At the orders of the same Sheikh, the kirangozi stood up to speak before
+the assembled caravans. "Words, words, from the Bana," he shouted.
+"Give ear, kirangozis! Listen, children of Unyamwezi! The journey is for
+to-morrow! The road is crooked and bad, bad! The jungle is there, and
+many Wagogo lie hidden within it! Wagogo spear the pagazis, and cut
+the throats of those who carry mutumba (bales) and ushanga (beads)! The
+Wagogo have been to our camp, they have seen your bales; to-night
+they seek the jungle: to-morrow watch well, O Wanyamwezi! Keep close
+together, lag not behind! Kirangozis walk slow, that the weak, the
+sick, and the young may keep up with the strong! Take two rests on the
+journey! These are the words of the Bana (master). Do you hear
+them, Wanyamwezi? (A loud shout in the affirmative from all.) Do you
+understand them well? (another chorus); then Bas;" having said which,
+the eloquent kirangozi retired into the dark night, and his straw hut.
+
+The march to Bihawana, our next camp, was rugged and long, through a
+continuous jungle of gums and thorns, up steep hills and finally over a
+fervid plain, while the sun waxed hotter and hotter as it drew near the
+meridian, until it seemed to scorch all vitality from inanimate nature,
+while the view was one white blaze, unbearable to the pained sight,
+which sought relief from the glare in vain. Several sandy watercourses,
+on which were impressed many a trail of elephants, were also passed on
+this march. The slope of these stream-beds trended south-east and south.
+
+In the middle of this scorching plain stood the villages of Bihawana,
+almost undistinguishable, from the extreme lowness of the huts, which
+did not reach the height of the tall bleached grass which stood smoking
+in the untempered heat.
+
+Our camp was in a large boma, about a quarter of a mile from the
+Sultan's tembe. Soon after arriving at the camp, I was visited by three
+Wagogo, who asked me if I had seen a Mgogo on the road with a woman
+and child. I was about to answer, very innocently, "Yes," when
+Mabruki--cautious and watchful always for the interests of the
+master--requested me not to answer, as the Wagogo, as customary, would
+charge me with having done away with them, and would require their price
+from me. Indignant at the imposition they were about to practise upon
+me, I was about to raise my whip to flog them out of the camp, when
+again Mabruki, with a roaring voice, bade me beware, for every blow
+would cost me three or four doti of cloth. As I did not care to gratify
+my anger at such an expense, I was compelled to swallow my wrath, and
+consequently the Wagogo escaped chastisement.
+
+We halted for one day at this place, which was a great relief to me, as
+I was suffering severely from intermittent fever, which lasted in this
+case two weeks, and entirely prevented my posting my diary in full, as
+was my custom every evening after a march.
+
+The Sultan of Bihawana, though his subjects were evil-disposed, and
+ready-handed at theft and murder, contented himself with three doti as
+honga. From this chief I received news of my fourth caravan, which had
+distinguished itself in a fight with some outlawed subjects of his; my
+soldiers had killed two who had attempted, after waylaying a couple of
+my pagazis, to carry away a bale of cloth and a bag of beads; coming
+up in time, the soldiers decisively frustrated the attempt. The Sultan
+thought that if all caravans were as well guarded as mine were, there
+would be less depredations committed on them while on the road; with
+which I heartily agreed.
+
+The next sultan's tembe through whose territory we marched, this being
+on the 30th May, was at Kididimo, but four miles from Bihawna. The road
+led through a flat elongated plain, lying between two lengthy hilly
+ridges, thickly dotted with the giant forms of the baobab. Kididimo is
+exceedingly bleak in aspect. Even the faces of the Wagogo seemed to have
+contracted a bleak hue from the general bleakness around. The water of
+the pits obtained in the neighbourhood had an execrable flavor, and two
+donkeys sickened and died in less than an hour from its effects.
+Man suffered nausea and a general irritability of the system, and
+accordingly revenged himself by cursing the country and its imbecile
+ruler most heartily. The climax came, however, when Bombay reported,
+after an attempt to settle the Muhongo, that the chief's head had grown
+big since he heard that the Musungu had come, and that its "bigness"
+could not be reduced unless he could extract ten doti as tribute. Though
+the demand was large, I was not in a humour--being feeble, and almost
+nerveless, from repeated attacks of the Mukunguru--to dispute the sum:
+consequently it was paid without many words. But the Arabs continued the
+whole afternoon negotiating, and at the end had to pay eight doti each.
+
+Between Kididimo and Nyambwa, the district of the Sultan Pembera Pereh,
+was a broad and lengthy forest and jungle inhabited by the elephant,
+rhinoceros, zebra, deer, antelope, and giraffe. Starting at dawn of
+the 31st; we entered the jungle, whose dark lines and bosky banks were
+clearly visible from our bower at Kididimo; and, travelling for two
+hours, halted for rest and breakfast, at pools of sweet water surrounded
+by tracts of vivid green verdure, which were a great resort for the wild
+animals of the jungle, whose tracks were numerous and recent. A narrow
+nullah, shaded deeply with foliage, afforded excellent retreats from
+the glaring sunshine. At meridian, our thirst quenched, our hunger
+satisfied, our gourds refilled, we set out from the shade into the
+heated blaze of hot noon. The path serpentined in and out of jungle, and
+thin forest, into open tracts of grass bleached white as stubble, into
+thickets of gums and thorns, which emitted an odour as rank as a stable;
+through clumps of wide-spreading mimosa and colonies of baobab, through
+a country teeming with noble game, which, though we saw them frequently,
+were yet as safe from our rifles as if we had been on the Indian Ocean.
+A terekeza, such as we were now making, admits of no delay. Water we
+had left behind at noon: until noon of the next day not a drop was to be
+obtained; and unless we marched fast and long on this day, raging
+thirst would demoralize everybody. So for six long weary hours we toiled
+bravely; and at sunset we camped, and still a march of two hours, to be
+done before the sun was an hour high, intervened between us and our camp
+at Nyambwa. That night the men bivouacked under the trees, surrounded by
+many miles of dense forest, enjoying the cool night unprotected by hat
+or tent, while I groaned and tossed throughout the night in a paroxysm
+of fever.
+
+The morn came; and, while it was yet young, the long caravan, or string
+of caravans, was under way. It was the same forest, admitting, on the
+narrow line which we threaded, but one man at a time. Its view was as
+limited. To our right and left the forest was dark and deep. Above was
+a riband of glassy sky flecked by the floating nimbus. We heard nothing
+save a few stray notes from a flying bird, or the din of the caravans as
+the men sang, or hummed, or conversed, or shouted, as the thought struck
+them that we were nearing water. One of my pagazis, wearied and sick,
+fell, and never rose again. The last of the caravan passed him before he
+died.
+
+At 7 A.M. we were encamped at Nyambwa, drinking the excellent water
+found here with the avidity of thirsty camels. Extensive fields of grain
+had heralded the neighbourhood of the villages, at the sight of which we
+were conscious that the caravan was quickening its pace, as approaching
+its halting-place. As the Wasungu drew within the populated area, crowds
+of Wagogo used their utmost haste to see them before they passed by.
+Young and old of both genders pressed about us in a multitude--a very
+howling mob. This excessive demonstrativeness elicited from my sailor
+overseer the characteristic remark, "Well, I declare, these must be
+the genuine Ugogians, for they stare! stare--there is no end to their
+staring. I'm almost tempted to slap 'em in the face!" In fact, the
+conduct of the Wagogo of Nyambwa was an exaggeration of the general
+conduct of Wagogo. Hitherto, those we had met had contented themselves
+with staring and shouting; but these outstepped all bounds, and my
+growing anger at their excessive insolence vented itself in gripping
+the rowdiest of them by the neck, and before he could recover from his
+astonishment administering a sound thrashing with my dog-whip, which he
+little relished. This proceeding educed from the tribe of starers all
+their native power of vituperation and abuse, in expressing which they
+were peculiar. Approaching in manner to angry tom-cats, they jerked
+their words with something of a splitting hiss and a half bark. The
+ejaculation, as near as I can spell it phonetically, was "hahcht"
+uttered in a shrill crescendo tone. They paced backwards and forwards,
+asking themselves, "Are the Wagoga to be beaten like slaves by this
+Musungu? A Mgogo is a Mgwana (a free man); he is not used to be
+beaten,--hahcht." But whenever I made motion, flourishing my whip,
+towards them, these mighty braggarts found it convenient to move to
+respectable distances from the irritated Musungu.
+
+Perceiving that a little manliness and show of power was something which
+the Wagogo long needed, and that in this instance it relieved me from
+annoyance, I had recourse to my whip, whose long lash cracked like
+a pistol shot, whenever they overstepped moderation. So long as they
+continued to confine their obtrusiveness to staring, and communicating
+to each other their opinions respecting my complexion, and dress, and
+accoutrements, I philosophically resigned myself in silence for their
+amusement; but when they pressed on me, barely allowing me to proceed, a
+few vigorous and rapid slashes right and left with my serviceable thong,
+soon cleared the track.
+
+Pembera Pereh is a queer old man, very small, and would be very
+insignificant were he not the greatest sultan in Ugogo; and enjoying a
+sort of dimediate power over many other tribes. Though such an
+important chief, he is the meanest dressed of his subjects,--is always
+filthy,--ever greasy--eternally foul about the mouth; but these are mere
+eccentricities: as a wise judge, he is without parallel, always has a
+dodge ever ready for the abstraction of cloth from the spiritless Arab
+merchants, who trade with Unyanyembe every year; and disposes with ease
+of a judicial case which would overtask ordinary men.
+
+Sheikh Hamed, who was elected guider of the united caravans now
+travelling through Ugogo, was of such a fragile and small make, that he
+might be taken for an imitation of his famous prototype "Dapper." Being
+of such dimensions, what he lacked for weight and size he made up by
+activity. No sooner had he arrived in camp than his trim dapper form
+was seen frisking about from side to side of the great boma, fidgeting,
+arranging, disturbing everything and everybody. He permitted no bales
+or packs to be intermingled, or to come into too close proximity to his
+own; he had a favourite mode of stacking his goods, which he would see
+carried out; he had a special eye for the best place for his tent, and
+no one else must trespass on that ground. One would imagine that walking
+ten or fifteen miles a day, he would leave such trivialities to his
+servants, but no, nothing could be right unless he had personally
+superintended it; in which work he was tireless and knew no fatigue.
+
+Another not uncommon peculiarity pertained to Sheikh Hamed; as he was
+not a rich man, he laboured hard to make the most of every shukka
+and doti expended, and each fresh expenditure seemed to gnaw his very
+vitals: he was ready to weep, as he himself expressed it, at the high
+prices of Ugogo, and the extortionate demands of its sultans. For this
+reason, being the leader of the caravans, so far as he was able we were
+very sure not to be delayed in Ugogo, where food was so dear.
+
+The day we arrived at Nyambwa will be remembered by Hamed as long as he
+lives, for the trouble and vexation which he suffered. His misfortunes
+arose from the fact that, being too busily engaged in fidgeting about
+the camp, he permitted his donkeys to stray into the matama fields of
+Pembera Pereh, the Sultan. For hours he and his servants sought for the
+stray donkeys, returning towards evening utterly unsuccessful, Hamed
+bewailing, as only an Oriental can do, when hard fate visits him with
+its inflictions, the loss of a hundred do dollars worth of Muscat
+donkeys. Sheikh Thani, older, more experienced, and wiser, suggested
+to him that he should notify the Sultan of his loss. Acting upon
+the sagacious advice, Hamed sent an embassy of two slaves, and the
+information they brought back was, that Pembera Pereh's servants had
+found the two donkeys eating the unripened matama, and that unless
+the Arab who owned them would pay nine doti of first-class cloths, he,
+Pembera Pereh, would surely keep them to remunerate him for the matama
+they had eaten. Hamed was in despair. Nine doti of first-class cloths,
+worth $25 in Unyanyembe, for half a chukka's worth of grain, was, as
+he thought, an absurd demand; but then if he did not pay it, what would
+become of the hundred dollars' worth of donkeys? He proceeded to the
+Sultan to show him the absurdity of the damage claim, and to endeavour
+to make him accept one chukka, which would be more than double the worth
+of what grain the donkeys had consumed. But the Sultan was sitting on
+pombe; he was drunk, which I believe to be his normal state--too drunk
+to attend to business, consequently his deputy, a renegade Mnyamwezi,
+gave ear to the business. With most of the Wagogo chiefs lives a
+Mnyamwezi, as their right-hand man, prime minister, counsellor,
+executioner, ready man at all things save the general good; a sort of
+harlequin Unyamwezi, who is such an intriguing, restless, unsatisfied
+person, that as soon as one hears that this kind of man forms one of and
+the chief of a Mgogo sultan's council, one feels very much tempted to
+do damage to his person. Most of the extortions practised upon the Arabs
+are suggested by these crafty renegades. Sheikh Hamed found that the
+Mnyamwezi was far more obdurate than the Sultan--nothing under nine
+doti first-class cloths would redeem the donkeys. The business that day
+remained unsettled, and the night following was, as one may imagine, a
+very sleepless one to Hamed. As it turned out, however, the loss of the
+donkeys, the after heavy fine, and the sleepless night, proved to be
+blessings in disguise; for, towards midnight, a robber Mgogo visited his
+camp, and while attempting to steal a bale of cloth, was detected in
+the act by the wide-awake and irritated Arab, and was made to vanish
+instantly with a bullet whistling in close proximity to his ear.
+
+From each of the principals of the caravans, the Mnyamwezi had received
+as tribute for his drunken master fifteen doti, and from the other
+six caravans six doti each, altogether fifty-one doti, yet on the next
+morning when we took the road he was not a whit disposed to deduct a
+single cloth from the fine imposed on Hamed, and the unfortunate Sheikh
+was therefore obliged to liquidate the claim, or leave his donkeys
+behind.
+
+After travelling through the corn-fields of Pembera Pereh we emerged
+upon a broad flat plain, as level as the still surface of a pond, whence
+the salt of the Wagogo is obtained. From Kanyenyi on the southern
+road, to beyond the confines of Uhumba and Ubanarama, this saline field
+extends, containing many large ponds of salt bitter water whose low
+banks are covered with an effervescence partaking of the nature of
+nitrate. Subsequently, two days afterwards, having ascended the elevated
+ridge which separates Ugogo from Uyanzi, I obtained a view of this
+immense saline plain, embracing over a hundred square miles. I may
+have been deceived, but I imagined I saw large expanses of greyish-blue
+water, which causes me to believe that this salina is but a corner of
+a great salt lake. The Wahumba, who are numerous, from Nyambwa to the
+Uyanzi border, informed my soldiers that there was a "Maji Kuba" away to
+the north.
+
+Mizanza, our next camp after Nyambwa, is situated in a grove of palms,
+about thirteen miles from the latter place. Soon after arriving I had
+to bury myself under blankets, plagued with the same intermittent fever
+which first attacked me during the transit of Marenga Mkali. Feeling
+certain that one day's halt, which would enable me to take regular doses
+of the invaluable sulphate of quinine, would cure me, I requested Sheikh
+Thani to tell Hamed to halt on the morrow, as I should be utterly unable
+to continue thus long, under repeated attacks of a virulent disease
+which was fast reducing me into a mere frame of skin and bone. Hamed, in
+a hurry to arrive at Unyanyembe in order to dispose of his cloth before
+other caravans appeared in the market, replied at first that he would
+not, that he could not, stop for the Musungu. Upon Thani's reporting his
+answer to me, I requested him to inform Hamed that, as the Musungu did
+not wish to detain him, or any other caravan, it was his express wish
+that Hamed would march and leave him, as he was quite strong enough in
+guns to march through Ugogo alone. Whatever cause modified the Sheikh's
+resolution and his anxiety to depart, Hamed's horn signal for the march
+was not heard that night, and on the morrow he had not gone.
+
+Early in the morning I commenced on my quinine doses; at 6 A.M. I took
+a second dose; before noon I had taken four more--altogether, fifty
+measured grains-the effect of which was manifest in the copious
+perspiration which drenched flannels, linen, and blankets. After noon I
+arose, devoutly thankful that the disease which had clung to me for the
+last fourteen days had at last succumbed to quinine.
+
+On this day the lofty tent, and the American flag which ever flew from
+the centre pole, attracted the Sultan of Mizanza towards it, and was the
+cause of a visit with which he honoured me. As he was notorious among
+the Arabs for having assisted Manwa Sera in his war against Sheikh
+Sny bin Amer, high eulogies upon whom have been written by Burton, and
+subsequently by Speke, and as he was the second most powerful chief in
+Ugogo, of course he was quite a curiosity to me. As the tent-door was
+uplifted that he might enter, the ancient gentleman was so struck with
+astonishment at the lofty apex, and internal arrangements, that the
+greasy Barsati cloth which formed his sole and only protection against
+the chills of night and the heat of noon, in a fit of abstraction was
+permitted to fall down to his feet, exposing to the Musungu's unhallowed
+gaze the sad and aged wreck of what must once have been a towering form.
+His son, a youth of about fifteen, attentive to the infirmities of his
+father, hastened with filial duty to remind him of his condition, upon
+which, with an idiotic titter at the incident, he resumed his scanty
+apparel and sat down to wonder and gibber out his admiration at the tent
+and the strange things which formed the Musungu's personal baggage and
+furniture. After gazing in stupid wonder at the table, on which was
+placed some crockery and the few books I carried with me; at the slung
+hammock, which he believed was suspended by some magical contrivance;
+at the portmanteaus which contained my stock of clothes, he ejaculated,
+"Hi-le! the Musungu is a great sultan, who has come from his country to
+see Ugogo." He then noticed me, and was again wonder-struck at my pale
+complexion and straight hair, and the question now propounded was, "How
+on earth was I white when the sun had burned his people's skins into
+blackness?" Whereupon he was shown my cork topee, which he tried on his
+woolly head, much to his own and to our amusement. The guns were next
+shown to him; the wonderful repeating rifle of the Winchester Company,
+which was fired thirteen times in rapid succession to demonstrate
+its remarkable murderous powers. If he was astonished before he was a
+thousand times more so now, and expressed his belief that the Wagogo
+could not stand before the Musungu in battle, for wherever a Mgogo was
+seen such a gun would surely kill him. Then the other firearms were
+brought forth, each with its peculiar mechanism explained, until, in, a
+burst of enthusiasm at my riches and power, he said he would send me a
+sheep or goat, and that he would be my brother. I thanked him for the
+honour, and promised to accept whatever he was pleased to send me. At
+the instigation of Sheikh Thani, who acted as interpreter, who said that
+Wagogo chiefs must not depart with empty hands, I cut off a shukka
+of Kaniki and presented it to him, which, after being examined and
+measured, was refused upon the ground that, the Musungu being a great
+sultan should not demean himself so much as to give him only a shukka.
+This, after the twelve doti received as muhongo from the caravans, I
+thought, was rather sore; but as he was about to present me with a sheep
+or goat another shukka would not matter much.
+
+Shortly after he departed, and true to his promise, I received a large,
+fine sheep, with a broad tail, heavy with fat; but with the words: "That
+being now his brother, I must send him three doti of good cloth." As the
+price of a sheep is but a doti and a half, I refused the sheep and the
+fraternal honour, upon the ground that the gifts were all on one side;
+and that, as I had paid muhongo, and given him a doti of Kaniki as a
+present, I could not, afford to part with any more cloth without an
+adequate return.
+
+During the afternoon one more of my donkeys died, and at night the
+hyaenas came in great numbers to feast upon the carcase. Ulimengo,
+the chasseur, and best shot of my Wangwana, stole out and succeeded in
+shooting two, which turned out to be some of the largest of their kind..
+One of them measured six feet from the tip of the nose to the extremity
+of the tail, and three feet around the girth.
+
+On the 4th. June we struck camp, and after travelling westward for about
+three miles, passing several ponds of salt water, we headed north by
+west, skirting the range of low hills which separates Ugogo from Uyanzi.
+
+After a three hours' march, we halted for a short time at Little
+Mukondoku, to settle tribute with the brother of him who rules at
+Mukondoku Proper. Three doti satisfied the Sultan, whose district
+contains but two villages, mostly occupied by pastoral Wahumba and
+renegade Wahehe. The Wahumba live in plastered (cow-dung) cone huts,
+shaped like the tartar tents of Turkestan.
+
+The Wahumba, so far as I have seen them, are a fine and well-formed
+race. The men are positively handsome, tall, with small heads, the
+posterior parts of which project considerably. One will look in vain for
+a thick lip or a flat nose amongst them; on the contrary, the mouth is
+exceedingly well cut, delicately small; the nose is that of the Greeks,
+and so universal was the peculiar feature, that I at once named them the
+Greeks of Africa. Their lower limbs have not the heaviness of the
+Wagogo and other tribes, but are long and shapely, clean as those of an
+antelope. Their necks are long and slender, on which their small heads
+are poised most gracefully. Athletes from their youth, shepherd bred,
+and intermarrying among themselves, thus keeping the race pure, any
+of them would form a fit subject for the sculptor who would wish to
+immortalize in marble an Antinous, a Hylas, a Daphnis, or an Apollo.
+The women are as beautiful as the men are handsome. They have clear ebon
+skins, not coal-black, but of an inky hue. Their ornaments consist of
+spiral rings of brass pendent from the ears, brass ring collars about
+the necks, and a spiral cincture of brass wire about their loins for the
+purpose of retaining their calf and goat skins, which are folded about
+their bodies, and, depending from the shoulder, shade one half of the
+bosom, and fall to the knees.
+
+The Wahehe may be styled the Romans of Africa. Resuming our march, after
+a halt of an hour, in foul hours more we arrived at Mukondoku Proper.
+This extremity of Ugogo is most populous, The villages which surround
+the central tembe, where the Sultan Swaruru lives, amount to thirty-six.
+The people who flocked from these to see the wonderful men whose faces
+were white, who wore the most wonderful things on their persons, and
+possessed the most wonderful weapons; guns which "bum-bummed" as fast as
+you could count on your fingers, formed such a mob of howling savages,
+that I for an instant thought there was something besides mere curiosity
+which caused such commotion, and attracted such numbers to the roadside.
+Halting, I asked what was the matter, and what they wanted, and why they
+made such noise? One burly rascal, taking my words for a declaration of
+hostilities, promptly drew his bow, but as prompt as he had fixed his
+arrow my faithful Winchester with thirteen shots in the magazine was
+ready and at the shoulder, and but waited to see the arrow fly to pour
+the leaden messengers of death into the crowd. But the crowd vanished as
+quickly as they had come, leaving the burly Thersites, and two or three
+irresolute fellows of his tribe, standing within pistol range of my
+levelled rifle. Such a sudden dispersion of the mob which, but a moment
+before, was overwhelming in numbers, caused me to lower my rifle, and
+to indulge in a hearty laugh at the disgraceful flight of the
+men-destroyers. The Arabs, who were as much alarmed at their boisterous
+obtrusiveness, now came up to patch a truce, in which they succeeded to
+everybody's satisfaction. A few words of explanation, and the mob came
+back in greater numbers than before; and the Thersites who had been the
+cause of the momentary disturbance was obliged to retire abashed before
+the pressure of public opinion. A chief now came up, whom I afterwards
+learned was the second man to Swaruru, and lectured the people upon
+their treatment of the "White Stranger."
+
+"Know ye not, Wagogo," shouted he, "that this Musungu is a sultan
+(mtemi--a most high title). He has not come to Ugogo like the Wakonongo
+(Arabs), to trade in ivory, but to see us, and give presents. Why do you
+molest him and his people? Let them pass in peace. If you wish to see
+him, draw near, but do not mock him. The first of you who creates a
+disturbance, let him beware; our great mtemi shall know how you treat
+his friends." This little bit of oratorical effort on the part of the
+chief was translated to me there and then by the old Sheik Thani; which
+having understood, I bade the Sheikh inform the chief that, after I had
+rested, I should like him to visit me in my tent.
+
+Having arrived at the khambi, which always surrounds some great baobab
+in Ugogo, at the distance of about half a mile from the tembe of the
+Sultan, the Wagogo pressed in such great numbers to the camp that Sheikh
+Thani resolved to make an effort to stop or mitigate the nuisance.
+Dressing himself in his best clothes, he went to appeal to the Sultan
+for protection against his people. The Sultan was very much inebriated,
+and was pleased to say, "What is it you want, you thief? You have come
+to steal my ivory or my cloth. Go away, thief!" But the sensible
+chief, whose voice had just been heard reproaching the people for their
+treatment of the Wasungu, beckoned to Thani to come out of the tembe,
+and then proceeded with him towards the khambi.
+
+The camp was in a great uproar; the curious Wagogo monopolized almost
+every foot of ground; there was no room to turn anywhere. The Wanyamwezi
+were quarreling with the Wagogo, the Wasawahili servants were clamoring
+loud that the Wagogo pressed down their tents, and that the property
+of the masters was in danger; while I, busy on my diary within my tent,
+cared not how great was the noise and confusion outside as long as it
+confined itself to the Wagogo, Wanyamwezi, and Wangwana.
+
+The presence of the chief in the camp was followed by a deep silence
+that I was prevailed upon to go outside to see what had caused it. The
+chief's words were few, and to the point. He said, "To your tembes,
+Wagogo--to your tembes! Why, do you come to trouble the Wakonongo: What
+have you to do with them? To your tembes: go! Each Mgogo found in the
+khambi without meal, without cattle to sell, shall pay to the mtemi
+cloth or cows. Away with you!" Saying which, he snatched up a stick and
+drove the hundreds out of the khambi, who were as obedient to him as so
+many children. During the two days we halted at Mukondoku we saw no more
+of the mob, and there was peace.
+
+The muhongo of the Sultan Swaruru was settled with few words. The chief
+who acted for the Sultan as his prime minister having been "made glad"
+with a doti of Rehani Ulyah from me, accepted the usual tribute of six
+doti, only one of which was of first-class cloth.
+
+There remained but one more sultan to whom muhongo must be paid after
+Mukondoku, and this was the Sultan of Kiwyeh, whose reputation was so
+bad that owners of property who had control over their pagazis seldom
+passed by Kiwyeh, preferring the hardships of long marches through
+the wilderness to the rudeness and exorbitant demands of the chief of
+Kiwyeh. But the pagazis, on whom no burden or responsibility fell save
+that of carrying their loads, who could use their legs and show clean
+heels in the case of a hostile outbreak, preferred the march to Kiwyeh
+to enduring thirst and the fatigue of a terekeza. Often the preference
+of the pagazis won the day, when their employers were timid, irresolute
+men, like Sheikh Hamed.
+
+The 7th of June was the day fixed for our departure from Mukondoku, so
+the day before, the Arabs came to my tent to counsel with me as to
+the route we should adopt. On calling together the kirangozis of the
+respective caravans and veteran Wanyamwezi pagazis, we learned there
+were three roads leading from Mukondoku to Uyanzi. The first was the
+southern road, and the one generally adopted, for the reasons already
+stated, and led by Kiwyeh. To this Hamed raised objections. "The Sultan
+was bad," he said; "he sometimes charged a caravan twenty doti; our
+caravan would have to pay about sixty doti. The Kiwyeh road would not do
+at all. Besides," he added, "we have to make a terekeza to reach Kiwyeh,
+and then we will not reach it before the day after to-morrow." The
+second was the central road. We should arrive at Munieka on the morrow;
+the day after would be a terekeza from Mabunguru Nullah to a camp near
+Unyambogi; two hours the next day would bring us to Kiti, where there
+was plenty of water and food. As neither of the kirangozis or Arabs
+knew this road, and its description came from one of my ancient pagazis,
+Hamed said he did not like to trust the guidance of such a large caravan
+in the hands of an old Mnyamwezi, and would therefore prefer to hear
+about the third road, before rendering his decision. The third road was
+the northern. It led past numerous villages of the Wagogo for the first
+two hours; then we should strike a jungle; and a three hours' march
+would then bring us to Simbo, where there was water, but no village.
+Starting early next morning, we would travel six hours when we would
+arrive at a pool of water. Here taking a short rest, an afternoon march
+of five hours would bring us within three hours of another village. As
+this last road was known to many, Hamed said, "Sheikh Thani, tell the
+Sahib that I think this is the best road." Sheikh Thani was told, after
+he had informed me that, as I had marched with them through Ugogo, if
+they decided upon going by Simbo, my caravan would follow.
+
+Immediately after the discussion among the principals respecting the
+merits of the several routes, arose a discussion among the pagazis which
+resulted in an obstinate clamor against the Simbo road, for its long
+terekeza and scant prospects of water, the dislike to the Simbo road
+communicated itself to all the caravans, and soon it was magnified by
+reports of a wilderness reaching from Simbo to Kusuri, where there was
+neither food nor water to be obtained. Hamed's pagazis, and those of
+the Arab servants, rose in a body and declared they could not go on that
+march, and if Hamed insisted upon adopting it they would put their packs
+down and leave him to carry them himself.
+
+Hamed Kimiani, as he was styled by the Arabs, rushed up to Sheikh Thani,
+and declared that he must take the Kiwyeh road, otherwise his pagazis
+would all desert. Thani replied that all the roads were the same to him,
+that wherever Hamed chose to go, he would follow. They then came to my
+tent, and informed me of the determination at which the Wanyamwezi had
+arrived. Calling my veteran Mnyamwezi, who had given me the favourable
+report once more to my tent, I bade him give a correct account of the
+Kiti road. It was so favourable that my reply to Hamed was, that I
+was the master of my caravan, that it was to go wherever I told the
+kirangozi, not where the pagazis chose; that when I told them to halt
+they must halt, and when I commanded a march, a march should be made;
+and that as I fed them well and did not overwork them, I should like to
+see the pagazi or soldier that disobeyed me. "You made up your mind just
+now that you would take the Simbo road, and we were agreed upon it, now
+your pagazis say they will take, the Kiwyeh road, or desert. Go on the
+Kiwyeh road and pay twenty doti muhongo. I and my caravan to-morrow
+morning will take the Kiti road, and when you find me in Unyanyembe one
+day ahead of you, you will be sorry you did not take the same road."
+
+This resolution of mine had the effect of again changing the current of
+Hamed's thoughts, for he instantly said, "That is the best road after
+all, and as the Sahib is determined to go on it, and we have all
+travelled together through the bad land of the Wagogo, Inshallah! let us
+all go the same way," and Thani=-good old man--not objecting, and Hamed
+having decided, they both joyfully went out of the tent to communicate
+the news.
+
+On the 7th the caravans--apparently unanimous that the Kiti road was to
+be taken--were led as usual by Hamed's kirangozi. We had barely gone a
+mile before I perceived that we had left the Simbo road, had taken the
+direction of Kiti, and, by a cunning detour, were now fast approaching
+the defile of the mountain ridge before us, which admitted access to the
+higher plateau of Kiwyeh. Instantly halting my caravan, I summoned the
+veteran who had travelled by Kiti, and asked him whether we were not
+going towards Kiwyeh. He replied that we were. Calling my pagazis
+together, I bade Bombay tell them that the Musuugu never changed his
+mind; that as I had said my caravan should march by Kiti; to Kiti it
+must go whether the Arabs followed or not. I then ordered the veteran
+to take up his load and show the kirangozi the proper road to Kiti.
+The Wanyamwezi pagazis put down their bales, and then there was every
+indication of a mutiny. The Wangwana soldiers were next ordered to load
+their guns and to flank the caravan, and shoot the first pagazis
+who made an attempt to run away. Dismounting, I seized my whip, and,
+advancing towards the first pagazi who had put down his load, I motioned
+to him to take up his load and march. It was unnecessary to proceed
+further; without an exception, all marched away obediently after the
+kirangozi. I was about bidding farewell to Thani, and Hamed, when Thani
+said, "Stop a bit, Sahib; I have had enough of this child's play; I come
+with you," and his caravan was turned after mine. Hamed's caravan was by
+this time close to the defile, and he himself was a full mile behind
+it, weeping like a child at what he was pleased to call our desertion of
+him. Pitying his strait--for he was almost beside himself as thoughts
+of Kiwyeh's sultan, his extortion and rudeness, swept across his mind--I
+advised him to run after his caravan, and tell it, as all the rest had
+taken the other road, to think of the Sultan of Kiwyeh. Before reaching
+the Kiti defile I was aware that Hamed's caravan was following us.
+
+The ascent of the ridge was rugged and steep, thorns of the prickliest
+nature punished us severely, the _acacia horrida_ was here more horrid
+than usual, the gums stretched out their branches, and entangled the
+loads, the mimosa with its umbrella-like top served to shade us from the
+sun, but impeded a rapid advance. Steep outcrops of syenite and granite,
+worn smooth by many feet, had to be climbed over, rugged terraces of
+earth and rock had to be ascended, and distant shots resounding through
+the forest added to the alarm and general discontent, and had I not
+been immediately behind my caravan, watchful of every manoeuvre, my
+Wanyamwezi had deserted to a man. Though the height we ascended was
+barely 800 feet above the salina we had just left, the ascent occupied
+two hours.
+
+Having surmounted the plateau and the worst difficulties, we had a fair
+road comparatively, which ran through jungle, forest, and small open
+tracts, which in three hours more brought us to Munieka, a small
+village, surrounded by a clearing richly cultivated by a colony of
+subjects of Swaruru of Mukondoku.
+
+By the time we had arrived at camp everybody had recovered his good
+humour and content except Hamed. Thani's men happened to set his tent
+too close to Hamed's tree, around which his bales were stacked. Whether
+the little Sheikh imagined honest old Thani capable of stealing one is
+not known, but it is certain that he stormed and raved about the near
+neighbourhood of his best friend's tent, until Thani ordered its removal
+a hundred yards off. This proceeding even, it seems, did not satisfy
+Hamed, for it was quite midnight--as Thani said--when Hamed came, and
+kissing his hands and feet, on his knees implored forgiveness, which of
+course Thani, being the soul of good-nature, and as large-hearted as any
+man, willingly gave. Hamed was not satisfied, however, until, with the
+aid of his slaves, he had transported his friend's tent to where it had
+at first been pitched.
+
+The water at Munieka was obtained from a deep depression in a hump of
+syenite, and was as clear as crystal, and' cold as ice-water--a luxury
+we had not experienced since leaving Simbamwenni.
+
+We were now on the borders of Uyanzi, or, as it is better known,
+"Magunda Mkali "--the Hot-ground, or Hot-field. We had passed the
+village populated by Wagogo, and were about to shake the dust of Ugogo
+from our feet. We had entered Ugogo full of hopes, believing it a
+most pleasant land--a land flowing with milk and honey. We had been
+grievously disappointed; it proved to be a land of gall and bitterness,
+full of trouble and vexation of spirit, where danger was imminent at
+every step--where we were exposed to the caprice of inebriated sultans.
+Is it a wonder, then, that all felt happy at such a moment? With the
+prospect before us of what was believed by many to be a real wilderness,
+our ardor was not abated, but was rather strengthened. The wilderness in
+Africa proves to be, in many instances, more friendly than the populated
+country. The kirangozi blew his kudu horn much more merrily on this
+morning than he was accustomed to do while in Ugogo. We were about to
+enter Magunda Mkali. At 9 A.M., three hours after leaving Munieka, and
+two hours since we had left the extreme limits of Ugogo, we were halted
+at Mabunguru Nullah. The Nullah runs southwesterly after leaving its
+source in the chain of hills dividing Ugogo from Magunda Mkali. During
+the rainy season it must be nearly impassable, owing to the excessive
+slope of its bed. Traces of the force of the torrent are seen in the
+syenite and basalt boulders which encumber the course. Their rugged
+angles are worn smooth, and deep basins are excavated where the bed is
+of the rock, which in the dry season serve as reservoirs. Though the
+water contained in them has a slimy and greenish appearance, and is well
+populated with frogs, it is by no means unpalatable.
+
+At noon we resumed our march, the Wanyamwezi cheering, shouting, and
+singing, the Wangwana soldiers, servants, and pagazis vieing with them
+in volume of voice and noise-making the dim forest through which we were
+now passing resonant with their voices.
+
+The scenery was much more picturesque than any we had yet seen since
+leaving Bagamoyo. The ground rose into grander waves--hills cropped out
+here and there--great castles of syenite appeared, giving a strange and
+weird appearance to the forest. From a distance it would almost seem as
+if we were approaching a bit of England as it must have appeared during
+feudalism; the rocks assumed such strange fantastic shapes. Now they
+were round boulders raised one above another, apparently susceptible to
+every breath of wind; anon, they towered like blunt-pointed obelisks,
+taller than the tallest trees; again they assumed the shape of mighty
+waves, vitrified; here, they were a small heap of fractured and riven
+rock; there, they rose to the grandeur of hills.
+
+By 5 P.M. we had travelled twenty miles, and the signal was sounded for
+a halt. At 1 A.M., the moon being up, Hamed's horn and voice were heard
+throughout the silent camp awaking his pagazis for the march. Evidently
+Sheikh Hamed was gone stark mad, otherwise why should he be so frantic
+for the march at such an early hour? The dew was falling heavily,
+and chilled one like frost; and an ominous murmur of deep discontent
+responded to the early call on all sides. Presuming, however, that he
+had obtained better information than we had, Sheikh Thani and I resolved
+to be governed as the events proved him to be right or wrong.
+
+As all were discontented, this night, march was performed in deep
+silence. The thermometer was at 53 deg., we being about 4,500 feet above the
+level of the sea. The pagazis, almost naked, walked quickly in order
+to keep warm, and by so doing many a sore foot was made by stumbling
+against obtrusive roots and rocks, and treading on thorns. At 3 A.M. we
+arrived at the village of Unyambogi, where we threw ourselves down to
+rest and sleep until dawn should reveal what else was in store for the
+hard-dealt-with caravans.
+
+It was broad daylight when I awoke; the sun was flaring his hot beams in
+my face. Sheikh Thani came soon after to inform me that Hamed had gone
+to Kiti two hours since; but he, when asked to accompany him, positively
+refused, exclaiming against it as folly, and utterly unnecessary. When
+my advice was asked by Thani, I voted the whole thing as sheer nonsense;
+and, in turn, asked him what a terekeza was for? Was it not an afternoon
+march to enable caravans to reach water and food? Thani replied than it
+was. I then asked him if there was no water or food to be obtained in
+Unyambogi. Thani replied that he had not taken pains to inquire, but
+was told by the villagers that there was an abundance of matamia, hindi,
+maweri, sheep; goats, and chickens in their village at cheap prices,
+such as were not known in Ugogo.
+
+"Well, then," said I, "if Hamed wants to be a fool, and kill his
+pagazis, why should we? I have as much cause for haste as Sheikh Hamed;
+but Unyanyembe is far yet, and I am not going to endanger my property by
+playing the madman."
+
+As Thani had reported, we found an abundance of provisions at the
+village, and good sweet water from some pits close by. A sheep cost one
+chukka; six chickens were also purchased at that price; six measures of
+matama, maweri, or hindi, were procurable for the same sum; in short, we
+were coming, at last, into the land of plenty.
+
+On the 10th June we arrived at Kiti after a journey of four hours and a
+half, where we found the irrepressible Hamed halted in sore trouble.
+He who would be a Caesar, proved to be an irresolute Antony. He had
+to sorrow over the death of a favourite slave girl, the loss of five
+dish-dashes (Arab shirts), silvered-sleeve and gold-embroidered jackets,
+with which he had thought to enter Unyanyembe in state, as became a
+merchant of his standing, which had disappeared with three absconding
+servants, besides copper trays, rice, and pilau dishes, and two bales of
+cloth with runaway Wangwana pagazis. Selim, my Arab servant, asked him,
+"What are you doing here, Sheikh Hamed? I thought you were well on the
+road to Unyanyembe." Said he, "Could I leave Thani, my friend, behind?"
+
+Kiti abounded in cattle and grain, and we were able to obtain food at
+easy rates. The Wakimbu, emigrants from Ukimbu, near Urori, are a quiet
+race, preferring the peaceful arts of agriculture to war; of tending
+their flocks to conquest. At the least rumor of war they remove their
+property and family, and emigrate to the distant wilderness, where they
+begin to clear the land, and to hunt the elephant for his ivory. Yet we
+found them to be a fine race, and well armed, and seemingly capable,
+by their numbers and arms, to compete with any tribe. But here, as
+elsewhere, disunion makes them weak. They are mere small colonies, each
+colony ruled by its own chief; whereas, were they united, they might
+make a very respectable front before an enemy.
+
+Our next destination was Msalalo, distant fifteen miles from Kiti.
+Hamed, after vainly searching for his runaways and the valuable property
+he had lost, followed us, and tried once more, when he saw us encamped
+at Msalalo, to pass us; but his pagazis failed him, the march having
+been so long.
+
+Welled Ngaraiso was reached on the 15th, after a three and a half hours'
+march. It is a flourishing little place, where provisions were almost
+twice as cheap as they were at Unyambogi. Two hours' march south is
+Jiweh la Mkoa, on the old road, towards which the road which we have
+been travelling since leaving Bagamoyo was now rapidly leading.
+
+Unyanyembe being near, the pagazis and soldiers having behaved
+excellently during the lengthy marches we had lately made, I purchased
+a bullock for three doti, and had it slaughtered for their special
+benefit. I also gave each a khete of red beads to indulge his appetite
+for whatever little luxury the country afforded. Milk and honey were
+plentiful, and three frasilah of sweet potatoes were bought for a
+shukka, equal to about 40 cents of our money.
+
+The 13th June brought us to the last village of Magunda Mkali, in the
+district of Jiweh la Singa, after a short march of eight miles and
+three-quarters. Kusuri--so called by the Arabs--is called Konsuli by the
+Wakimbu who inhabit it. This is, however, but one instance out of many
+where the Arabs have misnamed or corrupted the native names of villages
+and districts.
+
+Between Ngaraiso and Kusuri we passed the village of Kirurumo, now a
+thriving place, with many a thriving village near it. As we passed it,
+the people came out to greet the Musungu, whose advent had been so long
+heralded by his loud-mouthed caravans, and whose soldiers had helped
+them win the day in a battle against their fractious brothers of Jiweh
+la Mkoa.
+
+A little further on we came across a large khambi, occupied by Sultan
+bin Mohammed, an Omani Arab of high descent, who, as soon as he was
+notified of my approach, came out to welcome me, and invite me to his
+khambi. As his harem lodged in his tent, of course I was not invited
+thither; but a carpet outside was ready for his visitor. After the usual
+questions had been asked about my health, the news of the road, the
+latest from Zanzibar and Oman, he asked me if I had much cloth with
+me. This was a question often asked by owners of down caravans, and
+the reason of it is that the Arabs, in their anxiety to make as much
+as possible of their cloth at the ivory ports on the Tanganika and
+elsewhere, are liable to forget that they should retain a portion for
+the down marches. As, indeed, I had but a bale left of the quantity of
+cloth retained for provisioning my party on the road, when outfitting my
+caravans on the coast, I could unblushingly reply in the negative.
+
+I halted a day at Kusuri to give my caravan a rest, after its long
+series of marches, before venturing on the two days' march through the
+uninhabited wilderness that separates the district of Jiweh la Singa
+Uyanzi from the district of Tura in Unyanyembe. Hamed preceded,
+promising to give Sayd bin Salim notice of my coming, and to request him
+to provide a tembe for me.
+
+On the 15th, having ascertained that Sheikh Thani would be detained
+several days at Kusuri, owing to the excessive number of his people who
+were laid up with that dreadful plague of East Africa, the small-pox, I
+bade him farewell, and my caravan struck out of Kusuri once more for the
+wilderness and the jungle. A little before noon we halted at the Khambi
+of Mgongo Tembo, or the Elephant's Back--so called from a wave of rock
+whose back, stained into dark brownness by atmospheric influences, is
+supposed by the natives to resemble the blue-brown back of this monster
+of the forest. My caravan had quite an argument with me here, as to
+whether we should make the terekeza on this day or on the next. The
+majority was of the opinion that the next day would be the best for
+a terekeza; but I, being the "bana," consulting my own interests,
+insisted, not without a flourish or two of my whip, that the terekeza
+should be made on this day.
+
+Mgongo Tembo, when Burton and Speke passed by, was a promising
+settlement, cultivating many a fair acre of ground. But two years ago
+war broke out, for some bold act of its people upon caravans, and the
+Arabs came from Unyanyembe with their Wangwana servants, attacked them,
+burnt the villages, and laid waste the work of years. Since that time
+Mgongo Tembo has been but blackened wrecks of houses, and the fields a
+sprouting jungle.
+
+A cluster of date palm-trees, overtopping a dense grove close to the
+mtoni of Mgongo Tembo, revived my recollections of Egypt. The banks of
+the stream, with their verdant foliage, presented a strange contrast to
+the brown and dry appearance of the jungle which lay on either side.
+
+At 1 P.M. we resumed our loads and walking staffs, and in a short time
+were en route for the Ngwhalah Mtoni, distant eight and three-quarter
+miles from the khambi. The sun was hot; like a globe of living, seething
+flame, it flared its heat full on our heads; then as it descended
+towards the west, scorched the air before it was inhaled by the lungs
+which craved it. Gourds of water were emptied speedily to quench the
+fierce heat that burned the throat and lungs. One pagazi, stricken
+heavily with the small-pox, succumbed, and threw himself down on the
+roadside to die. We never saw him afterwards, for the progress of a
+caravan on a terekeza, is something like that of a ship in a hurricane.
+The caravan must proceed--woe befall him who lags behind, for hunger and
+thirst will overtake him--so must a ship drive before the fierce gale to
+escape foundering--woe befall him who falls overboard!
+
+An abundance of water, good, sweet, and cool, was found in the bed of
+the mtoni in deep stony reservoirs. Here also the traces of furious
+torrents were clearly visible as at Mabunguru.
+
+The Nghwhalah commences in Ubanarama to the north--a country famous for
+its fine breed of donkeys--and after running south, south-south-west,
+crosses the Unyanyembe road, from which point it has more of a westerly
+turn.
+
+On the 16th we arrived at Madedita, so called from a village which
+was, but is now no more. Madedita is twelve and a half miles from the
+Nghwhalah Mtoni. A pool of good water a few hundred yards from the
+roadside is the only supply caravans can obtain, nearer than Tura in
+Unyamwezi. The tsetse or chufwa-fly, as called by the Wasawahili, stung
+us dreadfully, which is a sign that large game visit the pool sometimes,
+but must not be mistaken for an indication that there is any in the
+immediate neighbourhood of the water. A single pool so often frequented
+by passing caravans, which must of necessity halt here, could not be
+often visited by the animals of the forest, who are shy in this part of
+Africa of the haunts of man.
+
+At dawn the neat day we were on the road striding at a quicker pace
+than on most days, since we were about to quit Magunda Mali for the more
+populated and better land of Unyamwezi. The forest held its own for
+a wearisomely long time, but at the end of two hours it thinned, then
+dwarfed into low jungle, and finally vanished altogether, and we
+had arrived on the soil of Unyamwezi, with a broad plain, swelling,
+subsiding, and receding in lengthy and grand undulations in our front
+to one indefinite horizontal line which purpled in the far distance. The
+view consisted of fields of grain ripening, which followed the contour
+of the plain, and which rustled merrily before the morning breeze that
+came laden with the chills of Usagara.
+
+At 8 A.M. we had arrived at the frontier village of Unyamwezi, Eastern
+Tura, which we invaded without any regard to the disposition of the few
+inhabitants who lived there. Here we found Nondo, a runaway of Speke's,
+one of those who had sided with Baraka against Bombay, who, desiring to
+engage himself with me, was engaging enough to furnish honey and sherbet
+to his former companions, and lastly to the pagazis. It was only a
+short breathing pause we made here, having another hour's march to reach
+Central Tura.
+
+The road from Eastern Tura led through vast fields of millet, Indian
+corn, holcus sorghum, maweri, or panicum, or bajri, as called by
+the Arabs; gardens of sweet potatoes, large tracts of cucumbers,
+water-melons, mush-melons, and pea-nuts which grew in the deep furrows
+between the ridges of the holcus.
+
+Some broad-leafed plantain plants were also seen in the neighbourhood of
+the villages, which as we advanced became very numerous. The villages of
+the Wakimbu are like those of the Wagogo, square, flat-roofed, enclosing
+an open area, which is sometimes divided into three or four parts by
+fences or matama stalks.
+
+At central Tura, where we encamped, we had evidence enough of the
+rascality of the Wakimbu of Tura. Hamed, who, despite his efforts to
+reach Unyanyembe in time to sell his cloths before other Arabs came with
+cloth supplies, was unable to compel his pagazis to the double march
+every day, was also encamped at Central Tura, together with the Arab
+servants who preferred Hamed's imbecile haste to Thani's cautious
+advance. Our first night in Unyamwezi was very exciting indeed. The
+Musungu's camp was visited by two crawling thieves, but they were soon
+made aware by the portentous click of a trigger that the white man's
+camp was well guarded.
+
+Hamed's camp was next visited; but here also the restlessness of
+the owner frustrated their attempts, for he was pacing backwards and
+forwards through his camp, with a loaded gun in his hand; and the
+thieves were obliged to relinquish the chance of stealing any of his
+bales. From Hamed's they proceeded to Hassan's camp (one of the Arab
+servants), where they were successful enough to reach and lay hold of a
+couple of bales; but, unfortunately, they made a noise, which awoke the
+vigilant and quick-eared slave, who snatched his loaded musket, and in a
+moment had shot one of them through the heart. Such were our experiences
+of the Wakimbu of Tura.
+
+On the 18th the three caravans, Hamed's, Hassan's, and my own, left Tura
+by a road which zig-zagged towards all points through the tall matama
+fields. In an hour's time we had passed Tura Perro, or Western Tura, and
+had entered the forest again, whence the Wakimbu of Tura obtain their
+honey, and where they excavate deep traps for the elephants with which
+the forest is said to abound. An hour's march from Western Tura brought
+us to a ziwa, or pond. There were two, situated in the midst of a small
+open mbuga, or plain, which, even at this late season, was yet soft
+from the water which overflows it during the rainy season. After resting
+three hours, we started on the terekeza, or afternoon march.
+
+It was one and the same forest that we had entered soon after leaving
+Western Tura, that we travelled through until we reached the Kwala
+Mtoni, or, as Burton has misnamed it on his map, "Kwale." The water of
+this mtoni is contained in large ponds, or deep depressions in the wide
+and crooked gully of Kwala. In these ponds a species of mud-fish, was
+found, off one of which I made a meal, by no means to be despised by one
+who had not tasted fish since leaving Bagamoyo. Probably, if I had my
+choice, being, when occasion demands it, rather fastidious in my tastes,
+I would not select the mud-fish.
+
+From Tura to the Kwala Mtoni is seventeen and a half miles, a distance
+which, however easy it may be traversed once a fortnight, assumes a
+prodigious length when one has to travel it almost every other day,
+at least, so my pagazis, soldiers, and followers found it, and their
+murmurs were very loud when I ordered the signal to be sounded on the
+march. Abdul Kader, the tailor who had attached himself to me, as a
+man ready-handed at all things, from mending a pair of pants, making
+a delicate entremets, or shooting an elephant, but whom the interior
+proved to be the weakliest of the weakly, unfit for anything except
+eating and drinking---almost succumbed on this march.
+
+Long ago the little stock of goods which Abdul had brought from Zanzibar
+folded in a pocket-handkerchief, and with which he was about to buy
+ivory and slaves, and make his fortune in the famed land of Unyamwezi,
+had disappeared with the great eminent hopes he had built on them, like
+those of Alnaschar the unfortunate owner of crockery in the Arabian
+tale. He came to me as we prepared for the march, with a most dolorous
+tale about his approaching death, which he felt in his bones, and
+weary back: his legs would barely hold him up; in short, he had utterly
+collapsed--would I take mercy on him, and let him depart? The cause of
+this extraordinary request, so unlike the spirit with which he had left
+Zanzibar, eager to possess the ivory and slaves of Unyamwezi, was that
+on the last long march, two of my donkeys being dead, I had ordered that
+the two saddles which they had carried should be Abdul Kader's load
+to Unyanyembe. The weight of the saddles was 16 lbs., as the spring
+balance-scale indicated, yet Abdul Kader became weary of life, as,
+he counted the long marches that intervened between the mtoni and
+Unyanyembe. On the ground he fell prone, to kiss my feet, begging me in
+the name of God to permit him to depart.
+
+As I had had some experience of Hindoos, Malabarese, and coolies
+in Abyssinia, I knew exactly how to deal with a case like this.
+Unhesitatingly I granted the request as soon as asked, for as much
+tired as Abdul Kader said he was of life, I was with Abdul Kader's
+worthlessness. But the Hindi did not want to be left in the jungle, he
+said, but, after arriving in Unyanyembe. "Oh," said I, "then you must
+reach Unyanyembe first; in the meanwhile you will carry those saddles
+there for the food which you must eat."
+
+As the march to Rubuga was eighteen and three-quarter miles, the pagazis
+walked fast and long without resting.
+
+Rubuga, in the days of Burton, according to his book, was a prosperous
+district. Even when we passed, the evidences of wealth and prosperity
+which it possessed formerly, were plain enough in the wide extent of its
+grain fields, which stretched to the right and left of the Unyanyembe
+road for many a mile. But they were only evidences of what once were
+numerous villages, a well-cultivated and populous district, rich in
+herds of cattle and stores of grain. All the villages are burnt down,
+the people have been driven north three or four days from Rubuga, the
+cattle were taken by force, the grain fields were left standing, to be
+overgrown with jungle and rank weeds. We passed village after village
+that had been burnt, and were mere blackened heaps of charred timber and
+smoked clay; field after field of grain ripe years ago was yet standing
+in the midst of a crop of gums and thorns, mimosa and kolquall.
+
+We arrived at the village, occupied by about sixty Wangwana, who have
+settled here to make a living by buying and selling ivory. Food is
+provided for them in the deserted fields of the people of Rubuga. We
+were very tired and heated from the long march, but the pagazis had all
+arrived by 3 p.m.
+
+At the Wangwana village we met Amer bin Sultan, the very type of an
+old Arab sheikh, such as we read of in books, with a snowy beard, and
+a clean reverend face, who was returning to Zanzibar after a ten years'
+residence in Unyanyembe. He presented me with a goat; and a goatskin
+full of rice; a most acceptable gift in a place where a goat costs five
+cloths.
+
+After a day's halt at Rubuga, during which I despatched soldiers
+to notify Sheikh Sayd bin Salim and Sheikh bin Nasib, the two chief
+dignitaries of Unyanyembe, of my coming, on the 21st of June we resumed
+the march for Kigwa, distant five hours. The road ran through another
+forest similar to that which separated Tura from Rubuga, the country
+rapidly sloping as we proceeded westward. Kigwa we found to have been
+visited by the same vengeance which rendered Rubuga such a waste.
+
+The next day, after a three and a half hours' rapid march, we crossed
+the mtoni--which was no mtoni--separating Kigwa from Unyanyembe
+district, and after a short halt to quench our thirst, in three and a
+half hours more arrived at Shiza. It was a most delightful march, though
+a long one, for its picturesqueness of scenery which every few minutes
+was revealed, and the proofs we everywhere saw of the peaceable and
+industrious disposition of the people. A short half hour from Shiza we
+beheld the undulating plain wherein the Arabs have chosen to situate the
+central depot which commands such wide and extensive field of trade. The
+lowing of cattle and the bleating of the goats and sheep were everywhere
+heard, giving the country a happy, pastoral aspect.
+
+The Sultan of Shiza desired me to celebrate my arrival in Unyanyembe,
+with a five-gallon jar of pombe, which he brought for that purpose.
+
+As the pombe was but stale ale in taste, and milk and water in colour,
+after drinking a small glassful I passed it to the delighted soldiers
+and pagazis. At my request the Sultan brought a fine fat bullock, for
+which he accepted four and a half doti of Merikani. The bullock was
+immediately slaughtered and served out to the caravan as a farewell
+feast.
+
+No one slept much that night, and long before the dawn the fires were
+lit, and great steaks were broiling, that their stomachs might rejoice
+before parting with the Musungu, whose bounty they had so often tasted.
+Six rounds of powder were served to each soldier and pagazi who owned
+a gun, to fire away when we should be near the Arab houses. The meanest
+pagazi had his best cloth about his loins, and some were exceedingly
+brave in gorgeous Ulyah "Coombeesa Poonga" and crimson "Jawah," the
+glossy "Rehani," and the neat "Dabwani." The soldiers were mustered in
+new tarbooshes, and the long white shirts of the Mrima and the Island.
+For this was the great and happy day which had been on our tongues ever
+since quitting the coast, for which we had made those noted marches
+latterly--one hundred and seventy-eight and a half miles in sixteen
+days, including pauses--something over eleven miles a day.
+
+The signal sounded and the caravan was joyfully off with banners flying,
+and trumpets and horns blaring. A short two and a half hours' march
+brought us within sight of Kwikuru, which is about two miles south of
+Tabora, the main Arab town; on the outside of which we saw a long line
+of men in clean shirts, whereat we opened our charged batteries, and
+fired a volley of small arms such as Kwikuru seldom heard before. The
+pagazis closed up and adopted the swagger of veterans: the soldiers
+blazed away uninterruptedly, while I, seeing that the Arabs were
+advancing towards me, left the ranks, and held out my hand, which was
+immediately grasped by Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, and then by about two
+dozen people, and thus our entree into Unyanyembe was effected.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII. -- MY LIFE AND TROUBLES DURING MY RESIDENCE IN UNYAS
+NYEMBE. I BECOME ENGAGED IN A WAR.
+
+
+I received a noiseless ovation as I walked side by side with the
+governor, Sayd bin Salim, towards his tembe in Kwikuru, or the capital.
+The Wanyamwezi pagazis were out by hundreds, the warriors of Mkasiwa,
+the sultan, hovered around their chief, the children were seen between
+the legs of their parents, even infants, a few months old, slung over
+their mothers' backs, all paid the tribute due to my colour, with one
+grand concentrated stare. The only persons who talked with me were the
+Arabs, and aged Mkasiwa, ruler of Unyanyembe.
+
+Sayd bin Salim's house was at the north-western corner of the inclosure,
+a stockaded boma of Kwikuru. We had tea made in a silver tea-pot, and a
+bountiful supply of "dampers" were smoking under a silver cover; and
+to this repast I was invited. When a man has walked eight miles or so
+without any breakfast, and a hot tropical sun has been shining on him
+for three or four hours, he is apt to do justice to a meal, especially
+if his appetite is healthy. I think I astonished the governor by the
+dexterous way in which I managed to consume eleven cups of his aromatic
+concoction of an Assam herb, and the easy effortless style with which
+I demolished his high tower of "slap jacks," that but a minute or so
+smoked hotly under their silver cover.
+
+For the meal, I thanked the Sheikh, as only an earnest and sincerely
+hungry man, now satisfied, could thank him. Even if I had not spoken, my
+gratified looks had well informed him, under what obligations I had been
+laid to him.
+
+Out came my pipe and tobacco-pouch.
+
+"My friendly Sheikh, wilt thou smoke?"
+
+"No, thanks! Arabs never smoke."
+
+"Oh, if you don't, perhaps you would not object to me smoking, in order
+to assist digestion?"
+
+"Ngema--good--go on, master."
+
+Then began the questions, the gossipy, curious, serious, light
+questions:
+
+"How came the master?
+
+"By the Mpwapwa road."
+
+"It is good. Was the Makata bad?"
+
+"Very bad."
+
+"What news from Zanzibar?"
+
+"Good; Syed Toorkee has possession of Muscat, and Azim bin Ghis was
+slain in the streets."
+
+"Is this true, Wallahi?" (by God.)
+
+"It is true."
+
+"Heh-heh-h! This is news!"--stroking his beard.
+
+"Have you heard, master, of Suleiman bin Ali?"
+
+"Yes, the Bombay governor sent him to Zanzibar, in a man-of-war, and
+Suleiman bin Ali now lies in the gurayza (fort)."
+
+"Heh, that is very good."
+
+"Did you have to pay much tribute to the Wagogo?"
+
+"Eight times; Hamed Kimiani wished me to go by Kiwyeh, but I declined,
+and struck through the forest to Munieka. Hamed and Thani thought it
+better to follow me, than brave Kiwyeh by themselves."
+
+"Where is that Hajji Abdullah (Captain Burton) that came here, and
+Spiki?" (Speke.)
+
+"Hajji Abdullah! What Hajji Abdullah? Ah! Sheikh Burton we call him. Oh,
+he is a great man now; a balyuz (a consul) at El Scham" (Damascus.)
+
+"Heh-heh; balyuz! Heh, at El Scham! Is not that near Betlem el Kuds?"
+(Jerusalem.)
+
+"Yes, about four days. Spiki is dead. He shot himself by accident."
+
+"Ah, ah, Wallah (by God), but this is bad news. Spiki dead? Mash-Allah!
+Ough, he was a good man--a good man! Dead!"
+
+"But where is this Kazeh, Sheikh Sayd?"
+
+"Kazeh? Kazeh? I never heard the name before."
+
+"But you were with Burton, and Speke, at Kazeh; you lived there several
+months, when you were all stopping in Unyanyembe; it must be close here;
+somewhere. Where did Hajji Abdullah and Spiki live when they were in
+Unyanyembe? Was it not in Musa Mzuri's house?"
+
+"That was in Tabora."
+
+"Well, then, where is Kazeh? I have never seen the man yet who could
+tell me where that place is, and yet the three white men have that word
+down, as the name of the place they lived at when you were with them.
+You must know where it is."
+
+"Wallahi, bana, I never heard the name; but stop, Kazeh, in Kinyamwezi,
+means 'kingdom.' Perhaps they gave that name to the place they stopped
+at. But then, I used to call the first house Sny bin Amer's house, and
+Speke lived at Musa Mzuri's house, but both houses, as well as all the
+rest, are in Tabora."
+
+"Thank you, sheikh. I should like to go and look after my people; they
+must all be wanting food."
+
+"I shall go with you to show you your house. The tembe is in Kwihara,
+only an hour's walk from Tabora."
+
+On leaving Kwikuru we crossed a low ridge, and soon saw Kwihara
+lying between two low ranges of hills, the northernmost of which was
+terminated westward by the round fortress-like hill of Zimbili. There
+was a cold glare of intense sunshine over the valley, probably the
+effect of an universal bleakness or an autumnal ripeness of the grass,
+unrelieved by any depth of colour to vary the universal sameness. The
+hills were bleached, or seemed to be, under that dazzling sunshine,
+and clearest atmosphere. The corn had long been cut, and there lay the
+stubble, and fields,--a browny-white expanse; the houses were of mud,
+and their fiat roofs were of mud, and the mud was of a browny-whiteness;
+the huts were thatched, and the stockades around them of barked timber,
+and these were of a browny whiteness. The cold, fierce, sickly wind from
+the mountains of Usagara sent a deadly chill to our very marrows, yet
+the intense sunshiny glare never changed, a black cow or two, or a tall
+tree here and there, caught the eye for a moment, but they never made
+one forget that the first impression of Kwihara was as of a picture
+without colour, or of food without taste; and if one looked up, there
+was a sky of a pale blue, spotless, and of an awful serenity.
+
+As I approached the tembe of Sayd bin Salim, Sheikh bin Nasib and other
+great Arabs joined us. Before the great door of the tembe the men had
+stacked the bales, and piled the boxes, and were using their tongues
+at a furious rate, relating to the chiefs and soldiers of the first,
+second, and fourth caravans the many events which had befallen them, and
+which seemed to them the only things worth relating. Outside of their
+own limited circles they evidently cared for nothing. Then the several
+chiefs of the other caravans had in turn to relate their experiences
+of the road; and the noise of tongues was loud and furious. But as we
+approached, all this loud-sounding gabble ceased, and my caravan chiefs
+and guides rushed to me to hail me as "master," and to salute me as
+their friend. One fellow, faithful Baruti, threw himself at my feet, the
+others fired their guns and acted like madmen suddenly become frenzied,
+and a general cry of "welcome" was heard on all sides.
+
+"Walk in, master, this is your house, now; here are your men's quarters;
+here you will receive the great Arabs, here is the cook-house; here is
+the store-house; here is the prison for the refractory; here are
+your white man's apartments; and these are your own: see, here is the
+bedroom, here is the gun-room, bath-room, &c.;" so Sheikh Sayd talked,
+as he showed me the several places.
+
+On my honour, it was a most comfortable place, this, in Central Africa.
+One could almost wax poetic, but we will keep such ambitious ideas for
+a future day. Just now, however, we must have the goods stored, and the
+little army of carriers paid off and disbanded.
+
+Bombay was ordered to unlock the strong store-room, to pile the bales
+in regular tiers, the beads in rows one above another, and the wire in
+a separate place. The boats, canvas, &c., were to be placed high above
+reach of white ants, and the boxes of ammunition and powder kegs were to
+be stored in the gun-room, out of reach of danger. Then a bale of cloth
+was opened, and each carrier was rewarded according to his merits, that
+each of them might proceed home to his friends and neighbours, and tell
+them how much better the white man behaved than the Arabs.
+
+The reports of the leaders of the first, second, and fourth caravans
+were then received, their separate stores inspected, and the details and
+events of their marches heard. The first caravan had been engaged in
+a war at Kirurumo, and had come out of the fight successful, and had
+reached Unyanyembe without loss of anything. The second had shot a thief
+in the forest between Pembera Pereh and Kididimo; the fourth had lost a
+bale in the jungle of Marenga Mkali, and the porter who carried it had
+received a "very sore head" from a knob stick wielded by one of the
+thieves, who prowl about the jungle near the frontier of Ugogo. I was
+delighted to find that their misfortunes were no more, and each leader
+was then and there rewarded with one handsome cloth, and five doti of
+Merikani.
+
+Just as I began to feel hungry again, came several slaves in succession,
+bearing trays full of good things from the Arabs; first an enormous dish
+of rice, with a bowlful of curried chicken, another with a dozen huge
+wheaten cakes, another with a plateful of smoking hot crullers, another
+with papaws, another with pomegranates and lemons; after these came
+men driving five fat hump backed oxen, eight sheep, and ten goats, and
+another man with a dozen chickens, and a dozen fresh eggs. This was
+real, practical, noble courtesy, munificent hospitality, which quite
+took my gratitude by storm.
+
+My people, now reduced to twenty-five, were as delighted at the prodigal
+plenitude visible on my tables and in my yard, as I was myself. And as I
+saw their eyes light up at the unctuous anticipations presented to them
+by their riotous fancies, I ordered a bullock to be slaughtered and
+distributed.
+
+The second day of the arrival of the Expedition in the country which I
+now looked upon as classic ground, since Capts. Burton, Speke, and Grant
+years ago had visited it, and described it, came the Arab magnates from
+Tabora to congratulate me.
+
+Tabora* is the principal Arab settlement in Central Africa. It contains
+over a thousand huts and tembes, and one may safely estimate the
+population, Arabs, Wangwana, and natives, at five thousand people.
+Between Tabora and the next settlement, Kwihara, rise two rugged hill
+ridges, separated from each other by a low saddle, over the top of which
+Tabora is always visible from Kwihara. ________________ * There is no
+such recognised place as Kazeh. ________________
+
+They were a fine, handsome body of men, these Arabs. They mostly hailed
+from Oman: others were Wasawahili; and each of my visitors had quite a
+retinue with him. At Tabora they live quite luxuriously. The plain on
+which the settlement is situated is exceedingly fertile, though naked of
+trees; the rich pasturage it furnishes permits them to keep large herds
+of cattle and goats, from which they have an ample supply of milk,
+cream, butter, and ghee. Rice is grown everywhere; sweet potatoes,
+yams, muhogo, holcus sorghum, maize, or Indian corn, sesame, millet,
+field-peas, or vetches, called choroko, are cheap, and always
+procurable. Around their tembes the Arabs cultivate a little wheat for
+their own purposes, and have planted orange, lemon, papaw, and mangoes,
+which thrive here fairly well. Onions and garlic, chilies, cucumbers,
+tomatoes, and brinjalls, may be procured by the white visitor from the
+more important Arabs, who are undoubted epicureans in their way. Their
+slaves convey to them from the coast, once a year at least, their stores
+of tea, coffee sugar, spices, jellies, curries, wine, brandy, biscuits,
+sardines, salmon, and such fine cloths and articles as they require for
+their own personal use. Almost every Arab of any eminence is able to
+show a wealth of Persian carpets, and most luxurious bedding, complete
+tea and coffee-services, and magnificently carved dishes of tinned
+copper and brass lavers. Several of them sport gold watches and
+chains, mostly all a watch and chain of some kind. And, as in Persia,
+Afghanistan, and Turkey, the harems form an essential feature of every
+Arab's household; the sensualism of the Mohammedans is as prominent here
+as in the Orient.
+
+The Arabs who now stood before the front door of my tembe were the
+donors of the good things received the day before. As in duty bound, of
+course, I greeted Sheikh Sayd first, then Sheikh bin Nasib, his Highness
+of Zanzibar's consul at Karagwa, then I greeted the noblest Trojan
+amongst the Arab population, noblest in bearing, noblest in courage and
+manly worth--Sheikh Khamis bin Abdullah; then young Amram bin Mussoud,
+who is now making war on the king of Urori and his fractious people;
+then handsome, courageous Soud, the son of Sayd bin Majid; then
+dandified Thani bin Abdullah; then Mussoud bin Abdullah and his cousin
+Abdullah bin Mussoud, who own the houses where formerly lived Burton
+and Speke; then old Suliman Dowa, Sayd bin Sayf, and the old Hetman of
+Tabora--Sheikh Sultan bin Ali.
+
+As the visit of these magnates, under whose loving protection white
+travellers must needs submit themselves, was only a formal one, such as
+Arab etiquette, ever of the stateliest and truest, impelled them to, it
+is unnecessary to relate the discourse on my health, and their wealth,
+my thanks, and their professions of loyalty, and attachment to me. After
+having expended our mutual stock of congratulations and nonsense, they
+departed, having stated their wish that I should visit them at Tabora
+and partake of a feast which they were about to prepare for me.
+
+Three days afterwards I sallied out of my tembe, escorted by eighteen
+bravely dressed men of my escort, to pay Tabora a visit. On surmounting
+the saddle over which the road from the valley of Kwihara leads to
+Tabora, the plain on which the Arab settlement is situated lay before
+us, one expanse of dun pasture land, stretching from the base of the
+hill on our left as far as the banks of the northern Gombe, which a few
+miles beyond Tabora heave into purple-coloured hills and blue cones.
+
+Within three-quarters of an hour we were seated on the mud veranda of
+the tembe of Sultan bin Ali, who, because of his age, his wealth, and
+position--being a colonel in Seyd Burghash's unlovely army--is looked
+upon by his countrymen, high and low, as referee and counsellor. His
+boma or enclosure contains quite a village of hive-shaped huts and
+square tembes. From here, after being presented with a cup of Mocha
+coffee, and some sherbet, we directed our steps towards Khamis bin
+Abdullah's house, who had, in anticipation of my coming, prepared a
+feast to which he had invited his friends and neighbours. The group of
+stately Arabs in their long white dresses, and jaunty caps, also of a
+snowy white, who stood ready to welcome me to Tabora, produced quite
+an effect on my mind. I was in time for a council of war they were
+holding--and I was requested to attend.
+
+Khamis bin Abdullah, a bold and brave man, ever ready to stand up
+for the privileges of the Arabs, and their rights to pass through any
+countries for legitimate trade, is the man who, in Speke's 'Journal
+of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile,' is reported to have shot
+Maula, an old chief who sided with Manwa Sera during the wars of 1860;
+and who subsequently, after chasing his relentless enemy for five years
+through Ugogo and Unyamwezi as far as Ukonongo, had the satisfaction of
+beheading him, was now urging the Arabs to assert their rights against a
+chief called Mirambo of Uyoweh, in a crisis which was advancing.
+
+This Mirambo of Uyoweh, it seems, had for the last few years been in
+a state of chronic discontent with the policies of the neighbouring
+chiefs. Formerly a pagazi for an Arab, he had now assumed regal power,
+with the usual knack of unconscionable rascals who care not by what
+means they step into power. When the chief of Uyoweh died, Mirambo,
+who was head of a gang of robbers infesting the forests of Wilyankuru,
+suddenly entered Uyoweh, and constituted himself lord paramount by
+force. Some feats of enterprise, which he performed to the enrichment
+of all those who recognised his authority, established him firmly in
+his position. This was but a beginning; he carried war through Ugara to
+Ukonongo, through Usagozi to the borders of Uvinza, and after destroying
+the populations over three degrees of latitude, he conceived a grievance
+against Mkasiwa, and against the Arabs, because they would not sustain
+him in his ambitious projects against their ally and friend, with whom
+they were living in peace.
+
+The first outrage which this audacious man committed against the Arabs
+was the halting of an Ujiji-bound caravan, and the demand for five kegs
+of gunpowder, five guns, and five bales of cloth. This extraordinary
+demand, after expending more than a day in fierce controversy, was
+paid; but the Arabs, if they were surprised at the exorbitant black-mail
+demanded of them, were more than ever surprised when they were told to
+return the way they came; and that no Arab caravan should pass through
+his country to Ujiji except over his dead body.
+
+On the return of the unfortunate Arabs to Unyanyembe, they reported the
+facts to Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, the governor of the Arab colony. This
+old man, being averse to war, of course tried every means to induce
+Mirambo as of old to be satisfied with presents; but Mirambo this time
+was obdurate, and sternly determined on war unless the Arabs aided him
+in the warfare he was about to wage against old Mkasiwa, sultan of the
+Wanyamwezi of Unyanyembe.
+
+"This is the status of affairs," said Khamis bin Abdullah. "Mirambo
+says that for years he has been engaged in war against the neighbouring
+Washensi and has come out of it victorious; he says this is a great year
+with him; that he is going to fight the Arabs, and the Wanyamwezi of
+Unyanyembe, and that he shall not stop until every Arab is driven from
+Unyanyembe, and he rules over this country in place of Mkasiwa. Children
+of Oman, shall it be so? Speak, Salim, son of Sayf, shall we go to meet
+this Mshensi (pagan) or shall we return to our island?"
+
+A murmur of approbation followed the speech of Khamis bin Abdullah, the
+majority of those present being young men eager to punish the audacious
+Mirambo. Salim, the son of Sayf, an old patriarch, slow of speech, tried
+to appease the passions of the young men, scions of the aristocracy of
+Muscat and Muttrah, and Bedaweens of the Desert, but Khamis's bold words
+had made too deep an impression on their minds.
+
+Soud, the handsome Arab whom I have noticed already as the son of Sayd
+the son of Majid, spoke: "My father used to tell me that he remembered
+the days when the Arabs could go through the country from Bagamoyo to
+Ujiji, and from Kilwa to Lunda, and from Usenga to Uganda armed with
+canes. Those days are gone by. We have stood the insolence of the Wagogo
+long enough. Swaruru of Usui just takes from us whatever he wants; and
+now, here is Mirambo, who says, after taking more than five bales of
+cloth as tribute from one man, that no Arab caravan shall go to Ujiji,
+but over his body. Are we prepared to give up the ivory of Ujiji, of
+Urundi, of Karagwah, of Uganda, because of this one man? I say war--war
+until we have got his beard under our feet--war until the whole of
+Uyoweh and Wilyankuru is destroyed--war until we can again travel
+through any part of the country with only our walking canes in our
+hands!"
+
+The universal assent that followed Send's speech proved beyond a doubt
+that we were about to have a war. I thought of Livingstone. What if he
+were marching to Unyanyembe directly into the war country?
+
+Having found from the Arabs that they intended to finish the war
+quickly--at most within fifteen days, as Uyoweh was only four marches
+distant--I volunteered to accompany them, take my loaded caravan with me
+as far as Mfuto, and there leave it in charge of a few guards, and with
+the rest march on with the Arab army. And my hope was, that it might
+be possible, after the defeat of Mirambo, and his forest banditti--the
+Ruga-Ruga--to take my Expedition direct to Ujiji by the road now closed.
+The Arabs were sanguine of victory, and I partook of their enthusiasm.
+
+The council of war broke up. A great dishful of rice and curry, in
+which almonds, citron, raisins, and currants were plentifully mixed, was
+brought in, and it was wonderful how soon we forgot our warlike fervor
+after our attention had been drawn to this royal dish. I, of course,
+not being a Mohammedan, had a dish of my own, of a similar composition,
+strengthened by platters containing roast chicken, and kabobs, crullers,
+cakes, sweetbread, fruit, glasses of sherbet and lemonade, dishes
+of gum-drops and Muscat sweetmeats, dry raisins, prunes, and nuts.
+Certainly Khamis bin Abdullah proved to me that if he had a warlike soul
+in him, he could also attend to the cultivated tastes acquired under the
+shade of the mangoes on his father's estates in Zanzibar--the island.
+
+After gorging ourselves on these uncommon dainties some of the chief
+Arabs escorted me to other tembes of Tabora. When we went to visit
+Mussoud bin Abdullah, he showed me the very ground where Burton and
+Speke's house stood--now pulled down and replaced by his office--Sny
+bin Amer's house was also torn down, and the fashionable tembe of
+Unyanyembe, now in vogue, built over it,--finely-carved rafters--huge
+carved doors, brass knockers, and lofty airy rooms--a house built for
+defence and comfort.
+
+The finest house in Unyanyembe belongs to Amram bin Mussoud, who paid
+sixty frasilah of ivory--over $3,000--for it. Very fair houses can be
+purchased for from twenty to thirty frasilah of ivory. Amram's house is
+called the "Two Seas"--"Baherein." It is one hundred feet in length, and
+twenty feet high, with walls four feet thick, neatly plastered over with
+mud mortar. The great door is a marvel of carving-work for Unyanyembe
+artisans. Each rafter within is also carved with fine designs. Before
+the front of the house is a young plantation of pomegranate trees, which
+flourish here as if they were indigenous to the soil. A shadoof, such as
+may be seen on the Nile, serves to draw water to irrigate the gardens.
+
+Towards evening we walked back to our own finely situated tembe in
+Kwihara, well satisfied with what we had seen at Tabora. My men drove a
+couple of oxen, and carried three sacks of native rice--a most superior
+kind--the day's presents of hospitality from Khamis bin Abdullah.
+
+In Unyanyembe I found the Livingstone caravan, which started off in a
+fright from Bagamoyo upon the rumour that the English Consul was coming.
+As all the caravans were now halted at Unyanyembe because of the now
+approaching war, I suggested to Sayd bin Salim, that it were better that
+the men of the Livingstone caravan should live with mine in my tembe,
+that I might watch over the white man's goods. Sayd bin Salim agreed
+with me, and the men and goods were at once brought to my tembe.
+
+One day Asmani, who was now chief of Livingstone's caravan, the other
+having died of small-pox, two or three days before, brought out a tent
+to the veranda where, I was sitting writing, and shewed me a packet of
+letters, which to my surprise was marked:
+
+"To Dr. Livingstone,
+
+"Ujiji,
+
+"November 1st, 1870.
+
+"Registered letters."
+
+From November 1st, 1870, to February 10, 1871, just one hundred days,
+at Bagamoyo! A miserable small caravan of thirty-three men halting one
+hundred days at Bagamoyo, only twenty-five miles by water from Zanzibar!
+Poor Livingstone! Who knows but he maybe suffering for want of these
+very supplies that were detained so long near the sea. The caravan
+arrived in Unyanyembe some time about the middle of May. About the
+latter part of May the first disturbances took place. Had this caravan
+arrived here in the middle of March, or even the middle of April, they
+might have travelled on to Ujiji without trouble.
+
+On the 7th of July, about 2 P.M., I was sitting on the burzani as usual;
+I felt listless and languid, and a drowsiness came over me; I did not
+fall asleep, but the power of my limbs seemed to fail me. Yet the brain
+was busy; all my life seemed passing in review before me; when these
+retrospective scenes became serious, I looked serious; when they were
+sorrowful, I wept hysterically; when they were joyous, I laughed loudly.
+Reminiscences of yet a young life's battles and hard struggles came
+surging into the mind in quick succession: events of boyhood, of youth,
+and manhood; perils, travels, scenes, joys, and sorrows; loves and
+hates; friendships and indifferences. My mind followed the various and
+rapid transition of my life's passages; it drew the lengthy, erratic,
+sinuous lines of travel my footsteps had passed over. If I had drawn
+them on the sandy floor, what enigmatical problems they had been to
+those around me, and what plain, readable, intelligent histories they
+had been to me!
+
+The loveliest feature of all to me was the form of a noble, and
+true man, who called me son. Of my life in the great pine forests of
+Arkansas, and in Missouri, I retained the most vivid impressions. The
+dreaming days I passed under the sighing pines on the Ouachita's shores;
+the new clearing, the block-house, our faithful black servant, the
+forest deer, and the exuberant life I led, were all well remembered. And
+I remembered how one day, after we had come to live near the Mississipi,
+I floated down, down, hundreds of miles, with a wild fraternity of
+knurly giants, the boatmen of the Mississipi, and how a dear old man
+welcomed me back, as if from the grave. I remembered also my travels on
+foot through sunny Spain, and France, with numberless adventures in Asia
+Minor, among Kurdish nomads. I remembered the battle-fields of America
+and the stormy scenes of rampant war. I remembered gold mines, and broad
+prairies, Indian councils, and much experience in the new western
+lands. I remembered the shock it gave me to hear after my return from a
+barbarous country of the calamity that had overtaken the fond man whom
+I called father, and the hot fitful life that followed it. Stop!
+************
+
+Dear me; is it the 21st of July? Yes, Shaw informed me that it was the
+21st of July after I recovered from my terrible attack of fever; the
+true date was the 14th of July, but I was not aware that I had jumped a
+week, until I met Dr. Livingstone. We two together examined the Nautical
+Almanack, which I brought with me. We found that the Doctor was three
+weeks out of his reckoning, and to my great surprise I was also one week
+out, or one week ahead of the actual date. The mistake was made by
+my being informed that I had been two weeks sick, and as the day I
+recovered my senses was Friday, and Shaw and the people were morally
+sure that I was in bed two weeks, I dated it on my Diary the 21st of
+July. However, on the tenth day after the first of my illness, I was in
+excellent trim again, only, however, to see and attend to Shaw, who was
+in turn taken sick. By the 22nd July Shaw was recovered, then Selim was
+prostrated, and groaned in his delirium for four days, but by the 28th
+we were all recovered, and were beginning to brighten up at the prospect
+of a diversion in the shape of a march upon Mirambo's stronghold.
+
+The morning of the 29th I had fifty men loaded with bales, beads, and
+wire, for Ujiji. When they were mustered for the march outside the
+tembe, the only man absent was Bombay. While men were sent to search
+for him, others departed to get one more look, and one more embrace with
+their black Delilahs. Bombay was found some time about 2 P.M., his
+face faithfully depicting the contending passions under which he was
+labouring--sorrow at parting from the fleshpots of Unyanyembe--regret at
+parting from his Dulcinea of Tabora--to be, bereft of all enjoyment now,
+nothing but marches--hard, long marches--to go to the war--to be killed,
+perhaps, Oh! Inspired by such feelings, no wonder Bombay was inclined to
+be pugnacious when I ordered him to his place, and I was in a shocking
+bad temper for having been kept waiting from 8 A.M. to 2 P.M. for him.
+There was simply a word and a savage look, and my cane was flying around
+Bombay's shoulders, as if he were to be annihilated. I fancy that the
+eager fury of my onslaught broke his stubbornness more than anything
+else; for before I had struck him a dozen times he was crying for
+"pardon." At that word I ceased belaboring him, for this was the first
+time he had ever uttered that word. Bombay was conquered at last.
+
+"March!" and the guide led off, followed in solemn order by forty-nine
+of his fellows, every man carrying a heavy load of African moneys,
+besides his gun, hatchet, and stock of ammunition, and his ugali-pot. We
+presented quite an imposing sight while thus marching on in silence
+and order, with our flags flying, and the red blanket robes of the men
+streaming behind them as the furious north-easter blew right on our
+flank.
+
+The men seemed to feel they were worth seeing, for I noticed that
+several assumed a more martial tread as they felt their royal Joho cloth
+tugging at their necks, as it was swept streaming behind by the wind.
+Maganga, a tall Mnyamwezi, stalked along like a very Goliah about to
+give battle alone, to Mirambo and his thousand warriors. Frisky Khamisi
+paced on under his load, imitating a lion and there was the rude
+jester--the incorrigible Ulimengo--with a stealthy pace like a cat. But
+their silence could not last long. Their vanity was so much gratified,
+the red cloaks danced so incessantly before their eyes, that it would
+have been a wonder if they could have maintained such serious gravity or
+discontent one half hour longer.
+
+Ulimengo was the first who broke it. He had constituted himself the
+kirangozi or guide, and was the standard-bearer, bearing the American
+flag, which the men thought would certainly strike terror into the
+hearts of the enemy. Growing confident first, then valorous, then
+exultant, he suddenly faced the army he was leading, and shouted
+
+        "Hoy!  Hoy!
+Chorus.--Hoy! Hoy!
+
+         Hoy!  Hoy!
+Chorus.--Hoy! Hoy!
+
+         Hoy!  Hoy!
+Chorus.--Hoy! Hoy!
+
+         Where are ye going?
+Chorus.--Going to war.
+
+         Against whom?
+Chorus.--Against Mirambo.
+
+         Who is your master?
+Chorus.--The White Man.
+
+         Ough!  Ough!
+Chorus.--Ough! Ough!
+
+         Hyah!  Hyah!
+Chorus.--Hyah. Hyah!"
+
+This was the ridiculous song they kept up all day without intermission.
+
+We camped the first day at Bomboma's village, situated a mile to the
+south-west of the natural hill fortress of Zimbili. Bombay was quite
+recovered from his thrashing, and had banished the sullen thoughts that
+had aroused my ire, and the men having behaved themselves so well, a
+five-gallon pot of pombe was brought to further nourish the valour,
+which they one and all thought they possessed.
+
+The second day we arrived at Masangi. I was visited soon afterwards by
+Soud, the son of Sayd bin Majid, who told me the Arabs were waiting for
+me; that they would not march from Mfuto until I had arrived.
+
+Eastern Mfuto, after a six hours' march, was reached on the third day
+from Unyanyembe. Shaw gave in, laid down in the road, and declared he
+was dying. This news was brought to me about 4 P.M. by one of the last
+stragglers. I was bound to despatch men to carry him to me, into my
+camp, though every man was well tired after the long march. A reward
+stimulated half-a-dozen to venture into the forest just at dusk to find
+Shaw, who was supposed to be at least three hours away from camp.
+
+About two o'clock in the morning my men returned, having carried Shaw on
+their backs the entire distance. I was roused up, and had him conveyed
+to my tent. I examined him, and I assured myself he was not suffering
+from fever of any kind; and in reply to my inquiries as to how he
+felt, he said he could neither walk nor ride, that he felt such extreme
+weakness and lassitude that he was incapable of moving further. After
+administering a glass of port wine to him in a bowlful of sago gruel, we
+both fell asleep.
+
+We arrived early the following morning at Mfuto, the rendezvous of the
+Arab army. A halt was ordered the next day, in order to make ourselves
+strong by eating the beeves, which we freely slaughtered.
+
+The personnel of our army was as follows:
+
+Sheikh Sayd bin Salim...... 25 half caste
+
+  "    Khamis bin Abdullah....  250 slaves
+
+  "    Thani bin Abdullah....    80   "
+
+  "    Mussoud bin Abdullah....  75   "
+
+  "    Abdullah bin Mussoud....  80   "
+
+  "    Ali bin Sayd bin Nasib...  250   "
+
+  "    Nasir bin Mussoud.....  50   "
+
+  "    Hamed Kimiami......   70   "
+
+  "    Hamdam........   30   "
+
+
+  "    Sayd bin Habib......  50   "
+
+  "    Salim bin Sayf.....    100   "
+
+  "    Sunguru........  25    "
+
+  "    Sarboko........  25    "
+
+  "    Soud bin Sayd bin Majid...  50    "
+
+  "    Mohammed bin Mussoud....  30    "
+
+  "    Sayd bin Hamed...... 90    "
+
+  "    The 'Herald' Expedition...  50 soldiers
+
+  "    Mkasiwa's Wanyamwezi...   800    "
+
+  "    Half-castes and Wangwana..  125    "
+
+  "    Independent chiefs and their
+       followers.......  300    "
+
+These made a total of 2,255, according to numbers given me by Thani bin
+Abdullah, and corroborated by a Baluch in the pay of Sheikh bin Nasib.
+Of these men 1,500 were armed with guns--flint-lock muskets, German
+and French double-barrels, some English Enfields, and American
+Springfields--besides these muskets, they were mostly armed with spears
+and long knives for the purpose of decapitating, and inflicting vengeful
+gashes in the dead bodies. Powder and ball were plentiful: some men were
+served a hundred rounds each, my people received each man sixty rounds.
+
+As we filed out of the stronghold of Mfuto, with waving banners denoting
+the various commanders, with booming horns, and the roar of fifty bass
+drums, called gomas--with blessings showered on us by the mollahs,
+and happiest predications from the soothsayers, astrologers, and the
+diviners of the Koran--who could have foretold that this grand force,
+before a week passed over its head, would be hurrying into that same
+stronghold of Mfuto, with each man's heart in his mouth from fear?
+
+The date of our leaving Mfuto for battle with Mirambo was the 3rd of
+August. All my goods were stored in Mfuto, ready for the march to Ujiji,
+should we be victorious over the African chief, but at least for safety,
+whatever befel us.
+
+Long before we reached Umanda, I was in my hammock in the paroxysms of
+a fierce attack of intermittent fever, which did not leave me until late
+that night.
+
+At Umanda, six hours from Mfuto, our warriors bedaubed themselves with
+the medicine which the wise men had manufactured for them--a compound
+of matama flour mixed with the juices of a herb whose virtues were only
+known to the Waganga of the Wanyamwezi.
+
+At 6 A.M. on the 4th of August we were once more prepared for the road,
+but before we were marched out of the village, the "manneno," or speech,
+was delivered by the orator of the Wanyamwezi:
+
+"Words! words! words! Listen, sons of Mkasiwa, children of Unyamwezi!
+the journey is before you, the thieves of the forest are waiting; yes,
+they are thieves, they cut up your caravans, they steal your ivory, they
+murder your women. Behold, the Arabs are with you, El Wali of the Arab
+sultan, and the white man are with you. Go, the son of Mkasiwa is with
+you; fight; kill, take slaves, take cloth, take cattle, kill, eat, and
+fill yourselves! Go!"
+
+A loud, wild shout followed this bold harangue, the gates of the
+village were thrown open, and blue, red, and white-robed soldiers were
+bounding upward like so many gymnasts; firing their guns incessantly, in
+order to encourage themselves with noise, or to strike terror into the
+hearts of those who awaited us within the strong enclosure of Zimbizo,
+Sultan Kolongo's place.
+
+As Zimbizo was distant only five hours from Umanda, at 11 A.M. we came
+in view of it. We halted on the verge of the cultivated area around it
+and its neighbours within the shadow of the forest. Strict orders had
+been given by the several chiefs to their respective commands not to
+fire, until they were within shooting distance of the boma.
+
+Khamis bin Abdullah crept through the forest to the west of the village.
+The Wanyamwezi took their position before the main gateway, aided by the
+forces of Soud the son of Sayd on the right, and the son of Habib on
+the left, Abdullah, Mussoud, myself, and others made ready to attack
+the eastern gates, which arrangement effectually shut them in, with the
+exception of the northern side.
+
+Suddenly, a volley opened on us as we emerged from the forest along the
+Unyanyembe road, in the direction they had been anticipating the sight
+of an enemy, and immediately the attacking forces began their firing in
+most splendid style. There were some ludicrous scenes of men pretending
+to fire, then jumping off to one side, then forward, then backward,
+with the agility of hopping frogs, but the battle was none the less in
+earnest. The breech-loaders of my men swallowed my metallic cartridges
+much faster than I liked to see; but happily there was a lull in the
+firing, and we were rushing into the village from the west, the south,
+the north, through the gates and over the tall palings that surrounded
+the village, like so many Merry Andrews; and the poor villagers were
+flying from the enclosure towards the mountains, through the northern
+gate, pursued by the fleetest runners of our force, and pelted in the
+back by bullets from breech-loaders and shot-guns.
+
+The village was strongly defended, and not more than twenty dead
+bodies were found in it, the strong thick wooden paling having afforded
+excellent protection against our bullets.
+
+From Zimbizo, after having left a sufficient force within, we sallied
+out, and in an hour had cleared the neighbourhood of the enemy, having
+captured two other villages, which we committed to the flames, after
+gutting them of all valuables. A few tusks of ivory, and about fifty
+slaves, besides an abundance of grain, composed the "loot," which fell
+to the lot of the Arabs.
+
+On the 5th, a detachment of Arabs and slaves, seven hundred strong,
+scoured the surrounding country, and carried fire and devastation up to
+the boma of Wilyankuru.
+
+On the 6th, Soud bin Sayd and about twenty other young Arabs led a force
+of five hundred men against Wilyankuru itself, where it was supposed
+Mirambo was living. Another party went out towards the low wooded hills,
+a short distance north of Zimbizo, near which place they surprised a
+youthful forest thief asleep, whose head they stretched backwards, and
+cut it off as though he were a goat or a sheep. Another party sallied
+out southward, and defeated a party of Mirambo's "bush-whackers," news
+of which came to our ears at noon.
+
+In the morning I had gone to Sayd bin Salim's tembe, to represent to him
+how necessary it was to burn the long grass in the forest of Zimbizo,
+lest it might hide any of the enemy; but soon afterwards I had been
+struck down with another attack of intermittent fever, and was obliged
+to turn in and cover myself with blankets to produce perspiration; but
+not, however, till I had ordered Shaw and Bombay not to permit any of my
+men to leave the camp. But I was told soon afterwards by Selim that more
+than one half had gone to the attack on Wilyankuru with Soud bin Sayd.
+
+About 6 P.M. the entire camp of Zimbizo was electrified with the news
+that all the Arabs who had accompanied Soud bin Sayd had been killed;
+and that more than one-half of his party had been slain. Some of my own
+men returned, and from them I learned that Uledi, Grant's former valet,
+Mabruki Khatalabu (Killer of his father), Mabruki (the Little), Baruti
+of Useguhha, and Ferahan had been killed. I learned also that they had
+succeeded in capturing Wilyankuru in a very short time, that Mirambo
+and his son were there, that as they succeeded in effecting an entrance,
+Mirambo had collected his men, and after leaving the village, had formed
+an ambush in the grass, on each side of the road, between Wilyankuru and
+Zimbizo, and that as the attacking party were returning home laden with
+over a hundred tusks of ivory, and sixty bales of cloth, and two or
+three hundred slaves, Mirambo's men suddenly rose up on each side of
+them, and stabbed them with their spears. The brave Soud had fired his
+double-barrelled gun and shot two men, and was in the act of loading
+again when a spear was launched, which penetrated through and through
+him: all the other Arabs shared the same fate. This sudden attack from
+an enemy they believed to be conquered so demoralized the party that,
+dropping their spoil, each man took to his heels, and after making
+a wide detour through the woods, returned to Zimbizo to repeat the
+dolorous tale.
+
+The effect of this defeat is indescribable. It was impossible to sleep,
+from the shrieks of the women whose husbands had fallen. All night they
+howled their lamentations, and sometimes might be heard the groans of
+the wounded who had contrived to crawl through the grass unperceived by
+the enemy. Fugitives were continually coming in throughout the night,
+but none of my men who were reported to be dead, were ever heard of
+again.
+
+The 7th was a day of distrust, sorrow, and retreat; the Arabs accused
+one another for urging war without expending all peaceful means first.
+There were stormy councils of war held, wherein were some who proposed
+to return at once to Unyanyembe, and keep within their own houses; and
+Khamis bin Abdullah raved, like an insulted monarch, against the abject
+cowardice of his compatriots. These stormy meetings and propositions
+to retreat were soon known throughout the camp, and assisted more than
+anything else to demoralize completely the combined forces of Wanyamwezi
+and slaves. I sent Bombay to Sayd bin Salim to advise him not to think
+of retreat, as it would only be inviting Mirambo to carry the war to
+Unyanyembe.
+
+After, despatching Bombay with this message, I fell asleep, but about
+1.30 P.M. I was awakened by Selim saying, "Master, get up, they are all
+running away, and Khamis bin Abdullah is himself going."
+
+With the aid of Selim I dressed myself, and staggered towards the door.
+My first view was of Thani bin Abdullah being dragged away, who, when he
+caught sight of me, shouted out "Bana--quick--Mirambo is coming." He
+was then turning to run, and putting on his jacket, with his eyes almost
+starting out of their sockets with terror. Khamis bin Abdullah was also
+about departing, he being the last Arab to leave. Two of my men were
+following him; these Selim was ordered to force back with a revolver.
+Shaw was saddling his donkey with my own saddle, preparatory to giving
+me the slip, and leaving me in the lurch to the tender mercies of
+Mirambo. There were only Bombay, Mabruki Speke, Chanda who was coolly
+eating his dinner, Mabruk Unyauyembe, Mtamani, Juma, and Sarmean---only
+seven out of fifty. All the others had deserted, and were by this time
+far away, except Uledi (Manwa Sera) and Zaidi, whom Selim brought back
+at the point of a loaded revolver. Selim was then told to saddle my
+donkey, and Bombay to assist Shaw to saddle his own. In a few moments we
+were on the road, the men ever looking back for the coming enemy; they
+belabored the donkeys to some purpose, for they went at a hard trot,
+which caused me intense pain. I would gladly have lain down to die, but
+life was sweet, and I had not yet given up all hope of being able to
+preserve it to the full and final accomplishment of my mission. My mind
+was actively at work planning and contriving during the long lonely
+hours of night, which we employed to reach Mfuto, whither I found the
+Arabs had retreated. In the night Shaw tumbled off his donkey, and would
+not rise, though implored to do so. As I did not despair myself, so I
+did not intend that Shaw should despair. He was lifted on his animal,
+and a man was placed on each side of him to assist him; thus we rode
+through the darkness. At midnight we reached Mfuto safely, and were at
+once admitted into the village, from which we had issued so valiantly,
+but to which we were now returned so ignominiously.
+
+I found all my men had arrived here before dark. Ulimengo, the bold
+guide who had exulted in his weapons and in our numbers, and was so
+sanguine of victory, had performed the eleven hours' march in six hours;
+sturdy Chowpereh, whom I regarded as the faithfullest of my people, had
+arrived only half an hour later than Ulimengo; and frisky Khamisi, the
+dandy--the orator--the rampant demagogue--yes--he had come third; and
+Speke's "Faithfuls" had proved as cowardly as any poor "nigger" of them
+all. Only Selim was faithful.
+
+I asked Selim, "Why did you not also run away, and leave your master to
+die?"
+
+"Oh, sir," said the Arab boy, naively, "I was afraid you would whip me."
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX. -- MY LIFE AND TROUBLES IN UNYANYEMBE-(continued).
+
+
+It never occurred to the Arab magnates that I had cause of complaint
+against them, or that I had a right to feel aggrieved at their conduct,
+for the base desertion of an ally, who had, as a duty to friendship,
+taken up arms for their sake. Their "salaams" the next morning after the
+retreat, were given as if nothing had transpired to mar the good feeling
+that had existed between us.
+
+They were hardly seated, however, before I began to inform them that as
+the war was only between them and Mirambo, and that as I was afraid, if
+they were accustomed to run away after every little check, that the war
+might last a much longer time than I could afford to lose; and that
+as they had deserted their wounded on the field, and left their sick
+friends to take care of themselves, they must not consider me in the
+light of an ally any more. "I am satisfied," said I, "having seen your
+mode of fighting, that the war will not be ended in so short a time as
+you think it will. It took you five years, I hear, to conquer and kill
+Manwa Sera, you will certainly not conquer Mirambo in less than a year.*
+I am a white man, accustomed to wars after a different style, I know
+something about fighting, but I never saw people run away from an
+encampment like ours at Zimbizo for such slight cause as you had. By
+running away, you have invited Mirambo to follow you to Unyanyembe; you
+may be sure he will come." __________________ * The same war is still
+raging, April, 1874. __________________
+
+The Arabs protested one after another that they had not intended to
+have left me, but the Wanyamwezi of Mkasiwa had shouted out that the
+"Musungu" was gone, and the cry had caused a panic among their people,
+which it was impossible to allay.
+
+Later that day the Arabs continued their retreat to Tabora; which
+is twenty-two miles distant from Mfuto. I determined to proceed more
+leisurely, and on the second day after the flight from Zimbizo, the
+Expedition, with all the stores and baggage, marched back to Masangi,
+and on the third day to Kwihara.
+
+The following extracts from my Diary will serve to show better than
+anything else, my feelings and thoughts about this time, after our
+disgraceful retreat:
+
+Kwihara. Friday, 11th August, 1871.--Arrived to-day from Zimbili,
+village of Bomboma's. I am quite disappointed and almost disheartened.
+But I have one consolation, I have done my duty by the Arabs, a duty I
+thought I owed to the kindness they received me with, now, however, the
+duty is discharged, and I am free to pursue my own course. I feel
+happy, for some reasons, that the duty has been paid at such a slight
+sacrifice. Of course if I had lost my life in this enterprise, I should
+have been justly punished. But apart from my duty to the consideration
+with which the Arabs had received me, was the necessity of trying every
+method of reaching Livingstone. This road which the war with Mirambo has
+closed, is only a month's march from this place, and, if the road could
+be opened with my aid, sooner than without it, why should I refuse my
+aid? The attempt has been made for the second time to Ujiji--both have
+failed. I am going to try another route; to attempt to go by the north
+would be folly. Mirambo's mother and people, and the Wasui, are between
+me and Ujiji, without including the Watuta, who are his allies, and
+robbers. The southern route seems to be the most practicable one.
+Very few people know anything of the country south; those whom I have
+questioned concerning it speak of "want of water" and robber Wazavira,
+as serious obstacles; they also say that the settlements are few and far
+between.
+
+But before I can venture to try this new route, I have to employ a new
+set of men, as those whom I took to Mfuto consider their engagements at
+an end, and the fact of five of their number being killed rather damps
+their ardor for travelling. It is useless to hope that Wanyamwezi can
+be engaged, because it is against their custom to go with caravans, as
+carriers, during war time. My position is most serious. I have a good
+excuse for returning to the coast, but my conscience will not permit me
+to do so, after so much money has been expended, and so much confidence
+has been placed in me. In fact, I feel I must die sooner than return.
+
+Saturday, August 12th.--My men, as I supposed they would, have gone;
+they said that I engaged them to go, to Ujiji by Mirambo's road. I have
+only thirteen left.
+
+With this small body of men, whither can I go? I have over one hundred
+loads in the storeroom. Livingstone's caravan is also here; his goods
+consist of seventeen bales of cloth, twelve boxes, and six bags of
+beads. His men are luxuriating upon the best the country affords.
+
+If Livingstone is at Ujiji, he is now locked up with small means of
+escape. I may consider myself also locked up at Unyamyembe, and I
+suppose cannot go to Ujiji until this war with Mirambo is settled.
+Livingstone cannot get his goods, for they are here with mine. He cannot
+return to Zanzibar, and the road to the Nile is blocked up. He might,
+if he has men and stores, possibly reach Baker by travelling northwards,
+through Urundi, thence through Ruanda, Karagwah, Uganda, Unyoro, and
+Ubari to Gondokoro. Pagazis he cannot obtain, for the sources whence a
+supply might be obtained are closed. It is an erroneous supposition to
+think that Livingstone, any more than any other energetic man of his
+calibre, can travel through Africa without some sort of an escort, and a
+durable supply of marketable cloth and beads.
+
+I was told to-day by a man that when Livingstone was coming from Nyassa
+Lake towards the Tanganika (the very time that people thought him
+murdered) he was met by Sayd bin Omar's caravan, which was bound for
+Ulamba. He was travelling with Mohammed bin Gharib. This Arab, who was
+coming from Urunga, met Livingstone at Chi-cumbi's, or Kwa-chi-kumbi's,
+country, and travelled with him afterwards, I hear, to Manyuema or
+Manyema. Manyuema is forty marches from the north of Nyassa. Livingstone
+was walking; he was dressed in American sheeting. He had lost all his
+cloth in Lake Liemba while crossing it in a boat. He had three canoes
+with him; in one he put his cloth, another he loaded with his boxes and
+some of his men, into the third he went himself with two servants and
+two fishermen. The boat with his cloth was upset. On leaving Nyassa,
+Livingstone went to Ubisa, thence to Uemba, thence to Urungu.
+Livingstone wore a cap. He had a breech-loading double-barreled rifle
+with him, which fired fulminating balls. He was also armed with two
+revolvers. The Wahiyow with Livingstone told this man that their master
+had many men with him at first, but that several had deserted him.
+
+August 13th.--A caravan came in to-day from the seacoast. They reported
+that William L. Farquhar, whom I left sick at Mpwapwa, Usagara, and
+his cook, were dead. Farquhar, I was told, died a few days after I had
+entered Ugogo, his cook died a few weeks later. My first impulse was for
+revenge. I believed that Leukole had played me false, and had poisoned
+him, or that he had been murdered in some other manner; but a personal
+interview with the Msawahili who brought the news informing me that
+Farquhar had succumbed to his dreadful illness has done away with that
+suspicion. So far as I could understand him, Farquhar had in the morning
+declared himself well enough to proceed, but in attempting to rise, had
+fallen backward and died. I was also told that the Wasagara, possessing
+some superstitious notions respecting the dead, had ordered Jako to
+take the body out for burial, that Jako, not being able to carry it,
+had dragged the body to the jungle, and there left it naked without the
+slightest covering of earth, or anything else.
+
+"There is one of us gone, Shaw, my boy! Who will be the next?" I
+remarked that night to my companion.
+
+August 14th.--Wrote some letters to Zanzibar. Shaw was taken very ill
+last night.
+
+August 19th. Saturday.--My soldiers are employed stringing beads.
+Shaw is still a-bed. We hear that Mirambo is coming to Unyanyembe.
+A detachment of Arabs and their slaves have started this morning to
+possess themselves of the powder left there by the redoubtable Sheikh
+Sayd bin Salim, the commander-in-chief of the Arab settlements.
+
+August 21st. Monday.--Shaw still sick. One hundred fundo of beads have
+been strung. The Arabs are preparing for another sally against Mirambo.
+The advance of Mirambo upon Unyanyembe was denied by Sayd bin Salim,
+this morning.
+
+August 22nd.--We were stringing beads this morning, when, about 10 A.M.,
+we heard a continued firing from the direction of Tabora. Rushing out
+from our work to the front door facing Tabora, we heard considerable
+volleying, and scattered firing, plainly; and ascending to the top of my
+tembe, I saw with my glasses the smoke of the guns. Some of my men
+who were sent on to ascertain the cause came running back with the
+information that Mirambo had attacked Tabora with over two thousand men,
+and that a force of over one thousand Watuta, who had allied themselves
+with him for the sake of plunder, had come suddenly upon Tabora,
+attacking from opposite directions.
+
+Later in the day, or about noon, watching the low saddle over which we
+could see Tabora, we saw it crowded with fugitives from that settlement,
+who were rushing to our settlement at Kwihara for protection. From these
+people we heard the sad information that the noble Khamis bin Abdullah,
+his little protege, Khamis, Mohammed bin Abdullah, Ibrahim bin Rashid,
+and Sayf, the son of Ali, the son of Sheikh, the son of Nasib, had been
+slain.
+
+When I inquired into the details of the attack, and the manner of the
+death of these Arabs, I was told that after the first firing which
+warned the inhabitants of Tabora that the enemy was upon them, Khamis
+bin Abdullah and some of the principal Arabs who happened to be with
+him had ascended to the roof of his tembe, and with his spyglass he had
+looked towards the direction of the firing. To his great astonishment he
+saw the plain around Tabora filled with approaching savages, and about
+two miles off, near Kazima, a tent pitched, which he knew to belong to
+Mirambo, from its having been presented to that chief by the Arabs of
+Tabora when they were on good terms with him.
+
+Khamis bin Abdullah descended to his house saying, "Let us go to meet
+him. Arm yourselves, my friends, and come with me." His friends advised
+him strongly sat to go out of his tembe; for so long as each Arab kept
+to his tembe they were more than a match for the Ruga Ruga and the
+Watuta together. But Khamis broke out impatiently with, "Would you
+advise us to stop in our tembes, for fear of this Mshensi (pagan)? Who
+goes with me?" His little protege, Khamis, son of a dead friend, asked
+to be allowed to be his gun-bearer. Mohammed bin Abdulluh, Ibrahim bin
+Rashid, and Sayf, the son of Ali, young Arabs of good families, who were
+proud to live with the noble Khamis, also offered to go with him. After
+hastily arming eighty of his slaves, contrary to the advice of his
+prudent friends, he sallied out, and was soon face to face with his
+cunning and determined enemy Mirambo. This chief, upon seeing the Arabs
+advance towards him, gave orders to retreat slowly. Khamis, deceived by
+this, rushed on with his friends after them. Suddenly Mirambo ordered
+his men to advance upon them in a body, and at the sight of the
+precipitate rush upon their party, Khamis's slaves incontinently took to
+their heels, never even deigning to cast a glance behind them, leaving
+their master to the fate which was now overtaking him. The savages
+surrounded the five Arabs, and though several of them fell before the
+Arabs' fire, continued to shoot at the little party, until Khamis bin
+Abdullah received a bullet in the leg, which brought him to his knees,
+and, for the first time, to the knowledge that his slaves had deserted
+him. Though wounded, the brave man continued shooting, but he soon
+afterwards received a bullet through the heart. Little Khamis, upon
+seeing his adopted father's fall, exclaimed: "My father Khamis is dead,
+I will die with him," and continued fighting until he received, shortly
+after, his death wound. In a few minutes there was not one Arab left
+alive.
+
+Late at night some more particulars arrived of this tragic scene. I was
+told by people who saw the bodies, that the body of Khamis bin Abdullah,
+who was a fine noble, brave, portly man, was found with the skin of his
+forehead, the beard and skin of the lower part of his face, the fore
+part of the nose, the fat over the stomach and abdomen, and, lastly, a
+bit from each heel, cut off, by the savage allies of Mirambo. And in
+the same condition were found the bodies of his adopted son and fallen
+friends. The flesh and skin thus taken from the bodies was taken, of
+course, by the waganga or medicine men, to make what they deem to be
+the most powerful potion of all to enable men to be strong against their
+enemies. This potion is mixed up with their ugali and rice, and is taken
+in this manner with the most perfect confidence in its efficacy, as
+an invulnerable protection against bullets and missiles of all
+descriptions.
+
+It was a most sorry scene to witness from our excited settlement at
+Kwihara, almost the whole of Tabora in flames, and to see the hundreds
+of people crowding into Kwihara.
+
+Perceiving that my people were willing to stand by me, I made
+preparations for defence by boring loopholes for muskets into the
+stout clay walls of my tembe. They were made so quickly, and seemed so
+admirably adapted for the efficient defence of the tembe, that my men
+got quite brave, and Wangwana refugees with guns in their hands, driven
+out of Tabora, asked to be admitted into our tembe to assist in its
+defence. Livingstone's men were also collected, and invited to help
+defend their master's goods against Mirambo's supposed attack. By night
+I had one hundred and fifty armed men in my courtyard, stationed at
+every possible point where an attack might be expected. To-morrow
+Mirambo has threatened that he will come to Kwihara. I hope he will
+come, and if he comes within range of an American rifle, I shall see
+what virtue lies in American lead.
+
+August 23rd.--We have passed a very anxious day in the valley of
+Kwihara. Our eyes were constantly directed towards unfortunate Tabora.
+It has been said that three tembes only have stood the brunt of the
+attack. Abid bin Suliman's house has been destroyed, and over two
+hundred tusks of ivory that belonged to him have become the property of
+the African Bonaparte. My tembe is in as efficient a state of defence as
+its style and means of defence will allow. Rifle-pits surround the house
+outside, and all native huts that obstructed the view have been torn
+down, and all trees and shrubs which might serve as a shelter for any
+one of the enemy have been cut. Provisions and water enough for six days
+have been brought. I have ammunition enough to last two weeks. The walls
+are three feet thick, and there are apartments within apartments, so
+that a desperate body of men could fight until the last room had been
+taken.
+
+The Arabs, my neighbours, endeavour to seem brave, but it is evident
+they are about despairing; I have heard it rumoured that the Arabs of
+Kwihara, if Tabora is taken, will start en masse for the coast, and give
+the country up to Mirambo. If such are their intentions, and they are
+really carried into effect, I shall be in a pretty mess. However, if
+they do leave me, Mirambo will not reap any benefit from my stores,
+nor from Livingstone's either, for I shall burn the whole house, and
+everything in it.
+
+August 24th.--The American flag is still waving above my house, and the
+Arabs are still in Unyanyembe.
+
+About 10 A.M., a messenger came from Tabora, asking us if we were not
+going to assist them against Mirambo. I felt very much like going out to
+help them; but after debating long upon the pros and cons of it,--asking
+myself, Was it prudent? Ought I to go? What will become of the people
+if I were killed? Will they not desert me again? What was the fate of
+Khamis bin Abdullah?--I sent word that I would not go; that they ought
+to feel perfectly at home in their tembes against such a force as
+Mirambo had, that I should be glad if they could induce him to come to
+Kwihara, in which case I would try and pick him off.
+
+They say that Mirambo, and his principal officer, carry umbrellas over
+their heads, that he himself has long hair like a Mnyamwezi pagazi, and
+a beard. If he comes, all the men carrying umbrellas will have bullets
+rained on them in the hope that one lucky bullet may hit him. According
+to popular ideas, I should make a silver bullet, but I have no silver
+with me. I might make a gold one.
+
+About, noon I went over to see Sheikh bin Nasib, leaving about 100 men
+inside the house to guard it while I was absent. This old fellow is
+quite a philosopher in his way. I should call him a professor of minor
+philosophy. He is generally so sententious--fond of aphorisms, and a
+very deliberate character. I was astonished to find him so despairing.
+His aphorisms have deserted him, his philosophy has not been able to
+stand against disaster. He listened to me, more like a moribund, than
+one possessing all the means of defence and offence.
+
+I loaded his two-pounder with ball, and grape, and small slugs of iron,
+and advised him not to fire it until Mirambo's people were at his gates.
+
+About 4 p.m. I heard that Mirambo had deported himself to Kazima, a
+place north-west of Tabora a couple of miles.
+
+August 26th.--The Arabs sallied out this morning to attack Kazima, but
+refrained, because Mirambo asked for a day's grace, to eat the beef he
+had stolen from them. He has asked them impudently to come to-morrow
+morning, at which time he says he will give them plenty of fighting.
+
+Kwihara is once more restored to a peaceful aspect, and fugitives no
+longer throng its narrow limits in fear and despair.
+
+August 27th.--Mirambo retreated during the night; and when the Arabs
+went in force to attack his village of Kazima, they found it vacant.
+
+The Arabs hold councils of war now-a-days--battle meetings, of which
+they seem to be very fond, but extremely slow to act upon. They were
+about to make friends with the northern Watuta, but Mirambo was ahead of
+them. They had talked of invading Mirambo's territory the second time,
+but Mirambo invaded Unyanyembe with fire and sword, bringing death to
+many a household, and he has slain the noblest of them all.
+
+The Arabs spend their hours in talking and arguing, while the Ujiji
+and Karagwah roads are more firmly closed than ever. Indeed many of
+the influential Arabs are talking of returning to Zanzibar; saying,
+"Unyanyembe is ruined."
+
+Meanwhile, with poor success, however, perceiving the impossibility of
+procuring Wanyamwezi pagazis, I am hiring the Wangwana renegades living
+in Unyanyembe to proceed with me to Ujiji, at treble prices. Each man is
+offered 30 doti, ordinary hire of a carrier being only from 5 to 10 doti
+to Ujiji. I want fifty men. I intend to leave about sixty or seventy
+loads here under charge of a guard. I shall leave all personal baggage
+behind, except one small portmanteau.
+
+August 28th.--No news to-day of Mirambo. Shaw is getting strong again.
+
+Sheikh bin Nasib called on me to-day, but, except on minor philosophy,
+he had nothing to say.
+
+I have determined, after a study of the country, to lead a flying
+caravan to Ujiji, by a southern road through northern Ukonongo
+and Ukawendi. Sheikh bin Nasib has been informed to-night of this
+determination.
+
+August 29th.--Shaw got up to-day for a little work. Alas! all my
+fine-spun plans of proceeding by boat over the Victoria N'Yanza, thence
+down the Nile, have been totally demolished, I fear, through this war
+with Mirambo--this black Bonaparte. Two months have been wasted here
+already. The Arabs take such a long time to come to a conclusion. Advice
+is plentiful, and words are as numerous as the blades of grass in our
+valley; all that is wanting indecision. The Arabs' hope and stay is
+dead--Khamis bin Abdullah is no more. Where are the other warriors
+of whom the Wangwana and Wanyamwezi bards sing? Where is mighty
+Kisesa--great Abdullah bin Nasib? Where is Sayd, the son of Majid?
+Kisesa is in Zanzibar, and Sayd, the son of Majid, is in Ujiji, as yet
+ignorant that his son has fallen in the forest of Wilyankuru.
+
+Shaw is improving fast. I am unsuccessful as yet in procuring soldiers.
+I almost despair of ever being able to move from here. It is such a
+drowsy, sleepy, slow, dreaming country. Arabs, Wangwana, Wanyamwezi, are
+all alike--all careless how time flies. Their to-morrow means sometimes
+within a month. To me it is simply maddening.
+
+August 30th.--Shaw will not work. I cannot get him to stir himself. I
+have petted him and coaxed him; I have even cooked little luxuries
+for him myself. And, while I am straining every nerve to get ready for
+Ujiji, Shaw is satisfied with looking on listlessly. What a change from
+the ready-handed bold man he was at Zanzibar!
+
+I sat down by his side to-day with my palm and needle in order to
+encourage him, and to-day, for the first time, I told him of the real
+nature of my mission. I told him that I did not care about the geography
+of the country half as much as I cared about FINDING LIVINGSTONE! I told
+him, for the first time, "Now, my dear Shaw, you think probably that I
+have been sent here to find the depth of the Tanganika. Not a bit of
+it, man; I was told to find Livingstone. It is to find Livingstone I am
+here. It is to find Livingstone I am going. Don't you see, old fellow,
+the importance of the mission; don't you see what reward you will get
+from Mr. Bennett, if you will help me? I am sure, if ever you come to
+New York, you will never be in want of a fifty-dollar bill. So shake
+yourself; jump about; look lively. Say you will not die; that is half
+the battle. Snap your fingers at the fever. I will guarantee the fever
+won't kill you. I have medicine enough for a regiment here!"
+
+His eyes lit up a little, but the light that shone in them shortly
+faded, and died. I was quite disheartened. I made some strong punch, to
+put fire in his veins, that I might see life in him. I put sugar, and
+eggs, and seasoned it with lemon and spice. "Drink, Shaw," said I, "and
+forget your infirmities. You are not sick, dear fellow; it is only ennui
+you are feeling. Look at Selim there. Now, I will bet any amount, that
+he will not die; that I will carry him home safe to his friends! I will
+carry you home also, if you will, let me!"
+
+September 1st:--According to Thani bin Abdullah whom I visited to-day,
+at his tembe in Maroro, Mirambo lost two hundred men in the attack upon
+Tabora, while the Arabs' losses were, five Arabs, thirteen freemen and
+eight slaves, besides three tembes, and over one hundred small huts
+burned, two hundred and eighty ivory tusks, and sixty cows and bullocks
+captured.
+
+September 3rd.--Received a packet of letters and newspapers from Capt.
+Webb, at Zanzibar. What a good thing it is that one's friends, even in
+far America, think of the absent one in Africa! They tell me, that no
+one dreams of my being in Africa yet!
+
+I applied to Sheikh bin Nasib to-day to permit Livingstone's caravan to
+go under my charge to Ujiji, but he would not listen to it. He says he
+feels certain I am going to my death.
+
+September 4th.--Shaw is quite well to-day, he says. Selim is down with
+the fever. My force is gradually increasing, though some of my old
+soldiers are falling off. Umgareza is blind; Baruti has the small-pox
+very badly; Sadala has the intermittent.
+
+September 5th.--Baruti died this morning. He was one of my best
+soldiers; and was one of those men who accompanied Speke to Egypt.
+Baruti is number seven of those who have died since leaving Zanzibar.
+
+To-day my ears have been poisoned with the reports of the Arabs, about
+the state of the country I am about to travel through. "The roads are
+bad; they are all stopped; the Ruga-Ruga are out in the forests; the
+Wakonongo are coming from the south to help Mirambo; the Washensi are
+at war, one tribe against another." My men are getting dispirited, they
+have imbibed the fears of the Arabs and the Wanyamwezi. Bombay begins
+to feel that I had better go back to the coast, and try again some other
+time.
+
+We buried Baruti under the shade of the banyan-tree, a few yards west
+of my tembe. The grave was made four and a half feet deep and three
+feet wide. At the bottom on one side a narrow trench was excavated,
+into which the body was rolled on his side, with his face turned
+towards Mecca. The body was dressed in a doti and a half of new American
+sheeting. After it was placed properly in its narrow bed, a sloping
+roof of sticks, covered over with matting and old canvas, was made, to
+prevent the earth from falling over the body. The grave was then filled,
+the soldiers laughing merrily. On the top of the grave was planted a
+small shrub, and into a small hole made with the hand, was poured water
+lest he might feel thirsty--they said--on his way to Paradise; water was
+then sprinkled all ever the grave, and the gourd broken. This ceremony
+being ended, the men recited the Arabic Fat-hah, after which they left
+the grave of their dead comrade to think no more of him.
+
+September 7th.--An Arab named Mohammed presented me to-day with a little
+boy-slave, called "Ndugu M'hali" (my brother's wealth). As I did not
+like the name, I called the chiefs of my caravan together, and asked
+them to give him a better name. One suggested "Simba" (a lion), another
+said he thought "Ngombe" (a cow) would suit the boy-child, another
+thought he ought to be called "Mirambo," which raised a loud laugh.
+Bombay thought "Bombay Mdogo" would suit my black-skinned infant very
+well. Ulimengo, however, after looking at his quick eyes, and noting his
+celerity of movement, pronounced the name Ka-lu-la as the best for him,
+"because," said he, "just look at his eyes, so bright look at his form,
+so slim! watch his movements, how quick! Yes, Kalulu is his name." "Yes,
+bana," said the others, "let it be Kalulu."
+
+"Kalulu" is a Kisawahili term for the young of the blue-buck
+(perpusilla) antelope.
+
+"Well, then," said I, water being brought in a huge tin pan, Selim, who
+was willing to stand godfather, holding him over the water, "let his
+name henceforth be Kalulu, and let no man take it from him," and thus it
+was that the little black boy of Mohammed's came to be called Kalulu.
+
+The Expedition is increasing in numbers.
+
+We had quite an alarm before dark. Much firing was heard at Tabora,
+which led us to anticipate an attack on Kwihara. It turned out, however,
+to be a salute fired in honour of the arrival of Sultan Kitambi to pay a
+visit to Mkasiwa, Sultan of Unyanyembe.
+
+September 8th.--Towards night Sheikh bin Nasib received a letter from
+an Arab at Mfuto, reporting that an attack was made on that place by
+Mirambo and his Watuta allies. It also warned him to bid the people of
+Kwihara hold themselves in readiness, because if Mirambo succeeded in
+storming Mfuto, he would march direct on Kwihara.
+
+September 9th.--Mirambo was defeated with severe loss yesterday, in his
+attack upon Mfuto. He was successful in an assault he made upon a
+small Wanyamwezi village, but when he attempted to storm Mfuto, he
+was repulsed with severe loss, losing three of his principal men. Upon
+withdrawing his forces from the attack, the inhabitants sallied out, and
+followed him to the forest of Umanda, where he was again utterly routed,
+himself ingloriously flying from the field.
+
+The heads of his chief men slain in the attack were brought to Kwikuru,
+the boma of Mkasiwa.
+
+September 14th.--The Arab boy Selim is delirious from constant fever.
+Shaw is sick again. These two occupy most of my time. I am turned into a
+regular nurse, for I have no one to assist me in attending upon them. If
+I try to instruct Abdul Kader in the art of being useful, his head is so
+befogged with the villainous fumes of Unyamwezi tobacco, that he wanders
+bewildered about, breaking dishes, and upsetting cooked dainties, until
+I get so exasperated that my peace of mind is broken completely for
+a full hour. If I ask Ferajji, my now formally constituted cook, to
+assist, his thick wooden head fails to receive an idea, and I am thus
+obliged to play the part of chef de cuisine.
+
+September 15th.--The third month of my residence in Unyanyembe is almost
+finished, and I am still here, but I hope to be gone before the 23rd
+inst.
+
+All last night, until nine A.M. this morning, my soldiers danced and
+sang to the names of their dead comrades, whose bones now bleach in the
+forests of Wilyankuru. Two or three huge pots of pombe failed to satisfy
+the raging thirst which the vigorous exercise they were engaged in,
+created. So, early this morning, I was called upon to contribute a
+shukka for another potful of the potent liquor.
+
+To-day I was busy selecting the loads for each soldier and pagazi. In
+order to lighten their labor as much as possible, I reduced each load
+from 70 lbs. to 50 lbs., by which I hope to be enabled to make some long
+marches. I have been able to engage ten pagazis during the last two or
+three days.
+
+I have two or three men still very sick, and it is almost useless to
+expect that they will be able to carry anything, but I am in hopes that
+other men may be engaged to take their places before the actual day of
+departure, which now seems to be drawing near rapidly.
+
+September 16th.--We have almost finished our work--on the fifth day from
+this--God willing--we shall march. I engaged two more pagazis besides
+two guides, named Asmani and Mabruki. If vastness of the human form
+could terrify any one, certainly Asmani's appearance is well calculated
+to produce that effect. He stands considerably over six feet without
+shoes, and has shoulders broad enough for two ordinary men.
+
+To-morrow I mean to give the people a farewell feast, to celebrate our
+departure from this forbidding and unhappy country.
+
+September 17th.--The banquet is ended. I slaughtered two bullocks, and
+had a barbacue; three sheep, two goats, and fifteen chickens, 120 lbs.
+of rice, twenty large loaves of bread made of Indian corn-flour, one
+hundred eggs, 10 lbs. of butter, and five gallons of sweet-milk, were
+the contents of which the banquet was formed. The men invited their
+friends and neighbours, and about one hundred women and children partook
+of it.
+
+After the banquet was ended, the pombe, or native beer, was brought
+in in five gallon pots, and the people commenced their dance, which
+continues even now as I write.
+
+September 19th.--I had a slight attack of fever to-day, which has
+postponed our departure. Selim and Shaw are both recovered.
+
+About 8 P.M. Sheik bin Nasib came to me imploring me not to go away
+to-morrow, because I was so sick. Thani Sakhburi suggested to me that I
+might stay another month. In answer, I told them that white men are not
+accustomed to break their words. I had said I would go, and I intended
+to go.
+
+Sheikh bin Nasib gave up all hope of inducing me to remain another day,
+and he has gone away, with a promise to write to Seyd Burghash to tell
+him how obstinate I am; and that I am determined to be killed. This was
+a parting shot.
+
+About 10 P.M. the fever had gone. All were asleep in the tembe but
+myself, and an unutterable loneliness came on me as I reflected on my
+position, and my intentions, and felt the utter lack of sympathy with me
+in all around. It requires more nerve than I possess, to dispel all the
+dark presentiments that come upon the mind. But probably what I call
+presentiments are simply the impress on the mind of the warnings which
+these false-hearted Arabs have repeated so often. This melancholy and
+loneliness I feel, may probably have their origin from the same cause.
+The single candle, which barely lights up the dark shade that fills the
+corners of my room, is but a poor incentive to cheerfulness. I feel as
+though I were imprisoned between stone walls. But why should I feel
+as if baited by these stupid, slow-witted Arabs and their warnings and
+croakings? I fancy a suspicion haunts my mind, as I write, that there
+lies some motive behind all this. I wonder if these Arabs tell me
+all these things to keep me here, in the hope that I might be induced
+another time to assist them in their war with Mirambo! If they think
+so, they are much mistaken, for I have taken a solemn, enduring oath,
+an oath to be kept while the least hope of life remains in me, not to
+be tempted to break the resolution I have formed, never to give up the
+search, until I find Livingstone alive, or find his dead body; and never
+to return home without the strongest possible proofs that he is alive,
+or that he is dead. No living man, or living men, shall stop me, only
+death can prevent me. But death--not even this; I shall not die, I will
+not die, I cannot die! And something tells me, I do not know what it
+is--perhaps it is the ever-living hopefulness of my own nature, perhaps
+it is the natural presumption born out of an abundant and glowing
+vitality, or the outcome of an overweening confidence in oneself--anyhow
+and everyhow, something tells me to-night I shall find him, and--write
+it larger--FIND HIM! FIND HIM! Even the words are inspiring. I feel more
+happy. Have I uttered a prayer? I shall sleep calmly to-night.
+
+I have felt myself compelled to copy out of my Diary the above notes,
+as they explain, written as they are on the spot, the vicissitudes of my
+"Life at Unyanyembe." To me they appear to explain far better than any
+amount of descriptive writing, even of the most graphic, the nature
+of the life I led. There they are, unexaggerated, in their literality,
+precisely as I conceived them at the time they happened. They speak of
+fevers without number to myself and men, they relate our dangers, and
+little joys, our annoyances and our pleasures, as they occurred.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X. -- TO MRERA, UKONONGO.
+
+     Departure from Unyanyembe.--The expedition reorganized.--
+     Bombay.--Mr. Shaw returns sick to Unyanyembe.--A noble
+     forest.-The fever described.--Happiness of the camp.--A
+     park-land.--Herds of game and noble sport.--A mutiny.--
+     Punishment of the ringleaders. Elephants.--Arrival at Mrera
+
+The 20th of September had arrived. This was the day I had decided to cut
+loose from those who tormented me with their doubts, their fears, and
+beliefs, and commence the march to Ujiji by a southern route. I was very
+weak from the fever that had attacked me the day before, and it was a
+most injudicious act to commence a march under such circumstances. But I
+had boasted to Sheikh bin Nasib that a white man never breaks his word,
+and my reputation as a white man would have been ruined had I stayed
+behind, or postponed the march, in consequence of feebleness.
+
+I mustered the entire caravan outside the tembe, our flags and streamers
+were unfurled, the men had their loads resting on the walls, there was
+considerable shouting, and laughing, and negroidal fanfaronnade. The
+Arabs had collected from curiosity's sake to see us off--all except
+Sheikh bin Nasib, whom I had offended by my asinine opposition to his
+wishes. The old Sheikh took to his bed, but sent his son to bear me a
+last morsel of Philosophic sentimentality, which I was to treasure up as
+the last words of the patriarchal Sheikh, the son of Nasib, the son of
+Ali, the son of Sayf. Poor Sheikh! if thou hadst only known what was at
+the bottom of this stubbornness--this ass-like determination to proceed
+the wrong way--what wouldst thou then have said, 0 Sheikh? But the
+Sheikh comforted himself with the thought that I might know what I was
+about better than he did, which is most likely, only neither he nor any
+other Arab will ever know exactly the motive that induced me to march at
+all westward--when the road to the east was ever so much easier.
+
+My braves whom I had enlisted for a rapid march somewhere, out of
+Unyanyembe, were named as follows:--
+
+1. John William Shaw, London, England.
+
+2. Selim Heshmy, Arab.
+
+3. Seedy Mbarak Mombay, Zanzibar.
+
+4. Mabruki Spoke, ditto.
+
+5. Ulimengo, ditto
+
+6. Ambari, ditto.
+
+7. Uledi, ditto.
+
+8. Asmani, ditto.
+
+9. Sarmean, ditto.
+
+10. Kamna, ditto.
+
+11. Zaidi, ditto.
+
+12. Khamisi, ditto.
+
+13. Chowpereh, Bagamoyo.
+
+14. Kingaru, ditto.
+
+15. Belali, ditto.
+
+16. Ferous, Unyanyembe.
+
+17. Rojab, Bagamoyo.
+
+18. Mabruk Unyanyembe, Unyanyembe.
+
+19. Mtamani, ditto.
+
+20. Chanda, Maroro.
+
+21. Sadala, Zanzibar.
+
+22. Kombo, ditto.
+
+23. Saburi the Great, Maroro.
+
+24. Saburi the Little, ditto.
+
+25. Marora, ditto.
+
+26. Ferajji (the cook), Zanzibar.
+
+27. Mabruk Saleem, Zanzibar.
+
+28. Baraka, ditto.
+
+29. Ibrahim, Maroro.
+
+30. Mabruk Ferous, ditto.
+
+31. Baruti, Bagamoyo.
+
+32. Umgareza, Zanzibar.
+
+33. Hamadi (the guide), ditto.
+
+34. Asmani, ditto, ditto.
+
+35. Mabruk, ditto ditto.
+
+36. Hamdallah (the guide), Tabora.
+
+37. Jumah, Zanzibar.
+
+38. Maganga, Mkwenkwe.
+
+39. Muccadum, Tabora.
+
+40. Dasturi, ditto.
+
+41. Tumayona, Ujiji.
+
+42. Mparamoto, Ujiji.
+
+43. Wakiri, ditto.
+
+44. Mufu, ditto.
+
+45. Mpepo, ditto.
+
+46. Kapingu, Ujiji.
+
+47. Mashishanga, ditto.
+
+48. Muheruka, ditto.
+
+49. Missossi, ditto.
+
+50. Tufum Byah, ditto.
+
+51. Majwara (boy), Uganda.
+
+52. Belali (boy), Uemba.
+
+53. Kalulu (boy), Lunda.
+
+54. Abdul Kader (tailor), Malabar.
+
+
+These are the men and boys whom I had chosen to be my companions on
+the apparently useless mission of seeking for the lost traveller, David
+Livingstone. The goods with which I had burdened them, consisted of
+1,000 doti, or 4,000 yds. of cloth, six bags of beads, four loads of
+ammunition, one tent, one bed and clothes, one box of medicine, sextant
+and books, two loads of tea, coffee, and sugar, one load of flour
+and candles, one load of canned meats, sardines, and miscellaneous
+necessaries, and one load of cooking utensils.
+
+The men were all in their places except Bombay. Bombay had gone; he
+could not be found. I despatched a man to hunt him up. He was found
+weeping in the arms of his Delilah.
+
+"Why did you go away, Bombay, when you knew I intended to go, and was
+waiting?"
+
+"Oh, master, I was saying good-bye to my missis."
+
+"Oh, indeed?"
+
+"Yes, master; you no do it, when you go away?
+
+"Silence, sir."
+
+"Oh! all right."
+
+"What is the matter with you, Bombay?"
+
+"Oh, nuffin."
+
+As I saw he was in a humour to pick a quarrel with me before those Arabs
+who had congregated outside of my tembe to witness my departure; and as
+I was not in a humour to be balked by anything that might turn up, the
+consequence was, that I was obliged to thrash Bombay, an operation which
+soon cooled his hot choler, but brought down on my head a loud chorus
+of remonstrances from my pretended Arab friends--"Now, master, don't,
+don't--stop it, master: the poor man knows better than you what he and
+you may expect on the road you are now taking."
+
+If anything was better calculated to put me in a rage than Bombay's
+insolence before a crowd it was this gratuitous interference with what
+I considered my own especial business; but I restrained myself, though I
+told them, in a loud voice, that I did not choose to be interfered with,
+unless they wished to quarrel with me.
+
+"No, no, bana," they all exclaimed; "we do not wish to quarrel with you.
+In the name of God! go on your way in peace."
+
+"Fare you well, then," said I, shaking hands with them.
+
+"Farewell, master, farewell. We wish you, we are sure, all success, and
+God be with you, and guide you!"
+
+"March!"
+
+A parting salute was fired; the flags were raised up by the guides, each
+pagazi rushed for his load, and in a short time, with songs and shouts,
+the head of the Expedition had filed round the western end of my tembe
+along the road to Ugunda.
+
+"Now, Mr. Shaw, I am waiting, sir. Mount your donkey, if you cannot
+walk."
+
+"Please, Mr. Stanley, I am afraid I cannot go."
+
+"Why?"
+
+"I don't know, I am sure. I feel very weak."
+
+"So am I weak. It was but late last night, as you know, that the fever
+left me. Don't back out before these Arabs; remember you are a white
+man. Here, Selim, Mabruki, Bombay, help Mr. Shaw on his donkey, and walk
+by him."
+
+"Oh, bana, bans," said the Arabs, "don't take him. Do you not see he is
+sick?"
+
+"You keep away; nothing will prevent me from taking him. He shall go."
+
+"Go on, Bombay."
+
+The last of my party had gone. The tembe, so lately a busy scene, had
+already assumed a naked, desolate appearance. I turned towards the
+Arabs, lifted my hat, and said again, "Farewell," then faced about
+for the south, followed by my four young gun-bearers, Selim, Kalulu,
+Majwara, and Belali.
+
+After half an hour's march the scenery became more animated. Shaw began
+to be amused. Bombay had forgotten our quarrel, and assured me, if I
+could pass Mirambo's country, I should "catch the Tanganika;" Mabruki
+Burton also believed we should. Selim was glad to leave Unyanyembe,
+where he had suffered so much from fever; and there was a something in
+the bold aspect of the hills which cropped upward--above fair valleys,
+that enlivened and encouraged me to proceed.
+
+In an hour and a half, we arrived at our camp in the Kinyamwezi village
+of Mkwenkwe, the birthplace--of our famous chanter Maganga.
+
+My tent was pitched, the goods were stored in one of the tembes; but
+one-half the men had returned to Kwihara, to take one more embrace of
+their wives and concubines.
+
+Towards night I was attacked once again with the intermittent fever.
+Before morning it had departed, leaving me terribly prostrated with
+weakness. I had heard the men conversing with each other over their
+camp-fires upon the probable prospects of the next day. It was a
+question with them whether I should continue the march. Mostly all were
+of opinion that, since the master was sick, there would be no march. A
+superlative obstinacy, however, impelled me on, merely to spite their
+supine souls; but when I sallied out of my tent to call them to get
+ready, I found that at least twenty were missing; and Livingstone's
+letter-carrier, "Kaif-Halek"--or, How-do-ye-do?--had not arrived with
+Dr. Livingstone's letter-bag.
+
+Selecting twenty of the strongest and faithfulest men I despatched them
+back to Unyanyembe in search of the missing men; and Selim was sent to
+Sheikh bin Nasib to borrow, or buy, a long slave-chain.
+
+Towards night my twenty detectives returned with nine of the missing
+men. The Wajiji had deserted in a body, and they could not be found.
+Selim also returned with a strong chain, capable of imprisoning within
+the collars attached to it at least ten men. Kaif-Halek also appeared
+with the letter-bag which he was to convey to Livingstone under my
+escort. The men were then addressed, and the slave-chain exhibited
+to them. I told them that I was the first white man who had taken a
+slave-chain with him on his travels; but, as they were all so frightened
+of accompanying me, I was obliged to make use of it, as it was the only
+means of keeping them together. The good need never fear being chained
+by me--only the deserters, the thieves, who received their hire and
+presents, guns and ammunition, and then ran away.
+
+I would not put any one this time in chains; but whoever deserted after
+this day, I should halt, and not continue the march till I found him,
+after which he should march to Ujiji with the slave-chain round
+his neck. "Do you hear?"--"Yes," was the answer. "Do you
+understand?"--"Yes."
+
+We broke up camp at 6 P.M., and took the road for Inesuka, at which
+place we arrived at 8 P.M.
+
+When we were about commencing the march the next morning, it was
+discovered that two more had deserted. Baraka and Bombay were at once
+despatched to Unyanyembe to bring back the two missing men--Asmani and
+Kingaru--with orders not to return without them. This was the third
+time that the latter had deserted, as the reader may remember. While the
+pursuit was being effected we halted at the village of Inesuka, more for
+the sake of Shaw than any one else.
+
+In the evening the incorrigible deserters were brought back, and, as I
+had threatened, were well flogged and chained, to secure them against
+further temptation. Bombay and Baraka had a picturesque story to relate
+of the capture; and, as I was in an exceedingly good humour, their
+services were rewarded with a fine cloth each.
+
+On the following morning another carrier had absconded, taking with
+him his hire of fifteen new cloths and a gun but to halt anywhere
+near Unyanyembe any longer was a danger that could be avoided only by
+travelling without stoppages towards the southern jungle-lands. It will
+be remembered I had in my train the redoubtable Abdul Kader, the tailor,
+he who had started from Bagamoyo with such bright anticipations of the
+wealth of ivory to be obtained in the great interior of Africa. On this
+morning, daunted by the reports of the dangers ahead, Abdul Kader
+craved to be discharged. He vowed he was sick, and unable to proceed any
+further. As I was pretty well tired of him, I paid him off in cloth, and
+permitted him to go.
+
+About half way to Kasegera Mabruk Saleem was suddenly taken sick. I
+treated him with a grain of calomel, and a couple of ounces of brandy.
+As he was unable to walk, I furnished him with a donkey. Another man
+named Zaidi was ill with a rheumatic fever; and Shaw tumbled twice off
+the animal he was riding, and required an infinite amount of coaxing to
+mount again. Verily, my expedition was pursued by adverse fortunes,
+and it seemed as if the Fates had determined upon our return. It really
+appeared as if everything was going to wreck and ruin. If I were only
+fifteen days from Unyanyembe, thought I, I should be saved!
+
+Kasegera was a scene of rejoicing the afternoon and evening of our
+arrival. Absentees had just returned from the coast, and the youths were
+brave in their gaudy bedizenment, their new barsatis, their soharis, and
+long cloths of bright new kaniki, with which they had adorned themselves
+behind some bush before they had suddenly appeared dressed in all this
+finery. The women "Hi-hi'ed" like maenads, and the "Lu-lu-lu'ing" was
+loud, frequent, and fervent the whole of that afternoon. Sylphlike
+damsels looked up to the youthful heroes with intensest admiration
+on their features; old women coddled and fondled them; staff-using,
+stooping-backed patriarchs blessed them. This is fame in Unyamwezi! All
+the fortunate youths had to use their tongues until the wee hours of
+next morning had arrived, relating all the wonders they had seen near
+the Great Sea, and in the "Unguja," the island of Zanzibar; of how they
+saw great white men's ships, and numbers of white men, of their perils
+and trials during their journey through the land of the fierce Wagogo,
+and divers other facts, with which the reader and I are by this time
+well acquainted.
+
+On the 24th we struck camp, and marched through a forest of imbiti wood
+in a S.S.W. direction, and in about three hours came to Kigandu.
+
+On arriving before this village, which is governed by a daughter of
+Mkasiwa, we were informed we could not enter unless we paid toll. As we
+would not pay toll, we were compelled to camp in a ruined, rat-infested
+boma, situated a mile to the left of Kigandu, being well scolded by the
+cowardly natives for deserting Mkasiwa in his hour of extremity. We were
+accused of running away from the war.
+
+Almost on the threshold of our camp Shaw, in endeavouring to dismount,
+lost his stirrups, and fell prone on his face. The foolish fellow
+actually, laid on the ground in the hot sun a full hour; and when I
+coldly asked him if he did not feel rather uncomfortable, he sat up, and
+wept like a child.
+
+"Do you wish to go back, Mr. Shaw?"
+
+"If you please. I do not believe I can go any farther; and if you would
+only be kind enough, I should like to return very much."
+
+"Well, Mr. Shaw, I have come to the conclusion that it is best, you
+should return. My patience is worn out. I have endeavoured faithfully to
+lift you above these petty miseries which you nourish so devotedly. You
+are simply suffering from hypochondria. You imagine yourself sick,
+and nothing, evidently, will persuade you that you are not. Mark my
+words--to return to Unyanyembe, is to DIE! Should you happen to fall
+sick in Kwihara who knows how to administer medicine to you? Supposing
+you are delirious, how can any of the soldiers know what you want, or
+what is beneficial and necessary for you? Once again, I repeat, if you
+return, you DIE!"
+
+"Ah, dear me; I wish I had never ventured to come! I thought life in
+Africa was so different from this. I would rather go back if you will
+permit me."
+
+The next day was a halt, and arrangements were made for the
+transportation of Shaw back to Kwihara. A strong litter was made, and
+four stout pagazis were hired at Kigandu to carry him. Bread was baked,
+a canteen was filled with cold tea, and a leg of a kid was roasted for
+his sustenance while on the road.
+
+The night before we parted we spent together. Shaw played some tunes on
+an accordion which I had purchased for him at Zanzibar; but, though
+it was only a miserable ten-dollar affair, I thought the homely tunes
+evoked from the instrument that night were divine melodies. The last
+tune played before retiring was "Home, sweet Home."
+
+The morning of the 27th we were all up early: There was considerable vis
+in our movements. A long, long march lay before us that day; but then
+I was to leave behind all the sick and ailing. Only those who were
+healthy, and could march fast and long, were to accompany me. Mabruk
+Saleem I left in charge of a native doctor, who was to medicate him for
+a gift of cloth which I gave him in advance.
+
+The horn sounded to get ready. Shaw was lifted in his litter on the
+shoulders of his carriers. My men formed two ranks; the flags were
+lifted; and between these two living rows, and under those bright
+streamers, which were to float over the waters of the Tanganika before
+he should see them again, Shaw was borne away towards the north; while
+we filed off to the south, with quicker and more elastic steps, as if we
+felt an incubus had been taken from us.
+
+We ascended a ridge bristling with syenite boulders of massive size,
+appearing above a forest of dwarf trees. The view which we saw was
+similar to that we had often seen elsewhere. An illimitable forest
+stretching in grand waves far beyond the ken of vision--ridges,
+forest-clad, rising gently one above another until they receded in the
+dim purple-blue distance--with a warm haze floating above them, which,
+though clear enough in our neighbourhood, became impenetrably blue in
+the far distance. Woods, woods, woods, leafy branches, foliage globes,
+or parachutes, green, brown, or sere in colour, forests one above
+another, rising, falling, and receding--a very leafy ocean. The horizon,
+at all points, presents the same view, there may be an indistinct
+outline of a hill far away, or here and there a tall tree higher than
+the rest conspicuous in its outlines against the translucent sky--with
+this exception it is the same--the same clear sky dropping into the
+depths of the forest, the same outlines, the same forest, the same
+horizon, day after day, week after week; we hurry to the summit of a
+ridge, expectant of a change, but the wearied eyes, after wandering over
+the vast expanse, return to the immediate surroundings, satiated with
+the eversameness of such scenes. Carlyle, somewhere in his writings,
+says, that though the Vatican is great, it is but the chip of an
+eggshell compared to the star-fretted dome where Arcturus and Orion
+glance for ever; and I say that, though the grove of Central Park, New
+York, is grand compared to the thin groves seen in other great cities,
+that though the Windsor and the New Forests may be very fine and noble
+in England, yet they are but fagots of sticks compared to these eternal
+forests of Unyamwezi.
+
+We marched three hours, and then halted for refreshments. I perceived
+that the people were very tired, not yet inured to a series of long
+marches, or rather, not in proper trim for earnest, hard work after our
+long rest in Kwihara. When we resumed our march again there were several
+manifestations of bad temper and weariness. But a few good-natured
+remarks about their laziness put them on their mettle, and we reached
+Ugunda at 2 P.M. after another four hours' spurt.
+
+Ugunda is a very large village in the district of Ugunda, which adjoins
+the southern frontier of Unyanyembe. The village probably numbers four
+hundred families, or two thousand souls. It is well protected by a tall
+and strong palisade of three-inch timber. Stages have been erected at
+intervals above the palisades with miniature embrasures in the timber,
+for the muskets of the sharpshooters, who take refuge within these
+box-like stages to pick out the chiefs of an attacking force. An inner
+ditch, with the sand or soil thrown up three or four feet high against
+the palings, serves as protection for the main body of the defenders,
+who kneel in the ditch, and are thus enabled to withstand a very large
+force. For a mile or two outside the village all obstructions are
+cleared, and the besieged are thus warned by sharp-eyed watchers to
+be prepared for the defence before the enemy approaches within
+musket range. Mirambo withdrew his force of robbers from before this
+strongly-defended village after two or three ineffectual attempts to
+storm it, and the Wagunda have been congratulating themselves ever
+since, upon having driven away the boldest marauder that Unyamwezi has
+seen for generations.
+
+The Wagunda have about three thousand acres under cultivation around
+their principal village, and this area suffices to produce sufficient
+grain not only for their own consumption, but also for the many caravans
+which pass by this way for Ufipa and Marungu.
+
+However brave the Wagunda may be within the strong enclosure with which
+they have surrounded their principal village, they are not exempt from
+the feeling of insecurity which fills the soul of a Mnyamwezi during
+war-time. At this place the caravans are accustomed to recruit their
+numbers from the swarms of pagazis who volunteer to accompany them to
+the distant ivory regions south; but I could not induce a soul to follow
+me, so great was their fear of Mirambo and his Ruga-Raga. They were also
+full of rumors of wars ahead. It was asserted that Mbogo was advancing
+towards Ugunda with a thousand Wakonongo, that the Wazavira had attacked
+a caravan four months previously, that Simba was scouring the country
+with a band of ferocious mercenaries, and much more of the same nature
+and to the same intent.
+
+On the 28th we arrived at a small snug village embosomed within the
+forest called Benta, three hours and a quarter from Ugunda. The road led
+through the cornfields of the Wagunda, and then entered the clearings
+around the villages of Kisari, within one of which we found the
+proprietor of a caravan who was drumming up carriers for Ufipa. He had
+been halted here two months, and he made strenuous exertions to induce
+my men to join his caravan, a proceeding that did not tend to promote
+harmony between us. A few days afterwards I found, on my return, that
+he had given up the idea of proceeding south. Leaving Kisari, we marched
+through a thin jungle of black jack, over sun-cracked ground with here
+and there a dried-up pool, the bottom of which was well tramped by
+elephant and rhinoceros. Buffalo and zebra tracks were now frequent, and
+we were buoyed up with the hope that before long we should meet game.
+
+Benta was well supplied with Indian corn and a grain which the natives
+called choroko, which I take to be vetches. I purchased a large supply
+of choroko for my own personal use, as I found it to be a most healthy
+food. The corn was stored on the flat roofs of the tembes in huge boxes
+made out of the bark of the mtundu-tree. The largest box I have ever
+seen in Africa was seen here. It might be taken for a Titan's hat-box;
+it was seven feet in diameter, and ten feet in height.
+
+On the 29th, after travelling in a S.W. by S. direction, we reached
+Kikuru. The march lasted for five hours over sun-cracked plains, growing
+the black jack, and ebony, and dwarf shrubs, above which numerous
+ant-hills of light chalky-coloured earth appeared like sand dunes.
+
+The mukunguru, a Kisawahili term for fever, is frequent in this region
+of extensive forests and flat plains, owing to the imperfect drainage
+provided by nature for them. In the dry season there is nothing very
+offensive in the view of the country. The burnt grass gives rather a
+sombre aspect to the country, covered with the hard-baked tracks of
+animals which haunt these plains during the latter part of the rainy
+season. In the forest numbers of trees lie about in the last stages of
+decay, and working away with might and main on the prostrate trunks may
+be seen numberless insects of various species. Impalpably, however, the
+poison of the dead and decaying vegetation is inhaled into the system
+with a result sometimes as fatal as that which is said to arise from the
+vicinity of the Upas-tree.
+
+The first evil results experienced from the presence of malaria are
+confined bowels and an oppressive languor, excessive drowsiness, and
+a constant disposition to yawn. The tongue assumes a yellowish, sickly
+hue, coloured almost to blackness; even the teeth become yellow, and
+are coated with an offensive matter. The eyes of the patient sparkle
+lustrously, and become suffused with water. These are sure symptoms of
+the incipient fever which shortly will rage through the system.
+
+Sometimes this fever is preceded by a violent shaking fit, during which
+period blankets may be heaped on the patient's form, with but little
+amelioration of the deadly chill he feels. It is then succeeded by an
+unusually severe headache, with excessive pains about the loins and
+spinal column, which presently will spread over the shoulder-blades,
+and, running up the neck, find a final lodgment in the back and front
+of the head. Usually, however, the fever is not preceded by a chill,
+but after languor and torpitude have seized him, with excessive heat and
+throbbing temples, the loin and spinal column ache, and raging thirst
+soon possesses him. The brain becomes crowded with strange fancies,
+which sometimes assume most hideous shapes. Before the darkened vision
+of the suffering man, float in a seething atmosphere, figures of created
+and uncreated reptiles, which are metamorphosed every instant into
+stranger shapes and designs, growing every moment more confused, more
+complicated, more hideous and terrible. Unable to bear longer the
+distracting scene, he makes an effort and opens, his eyes, and dissolves
+the delirious dream, only, however, to glide again unconsciously
+into another dream-land where another unreal inferno is dioramically
+revealed, and new agonies suffered. Oh! the many many hours, that I have
+groaned under the terrible incubi which the fits of real delirium evoke.
+Oh! the racking anguish of body that a traveller in Africa must
+undergo! Oh! the spite, the fretfulness, the vexation which the horrible
+phantasmagoria of diabolisms induce! The utmost patience fails to
+appease, the most industrious attendance fails to gratify, the deepest
+humility displeases. During these terrible transitions, which induce
+fierce distraction, Job himself would become irritable, insanely
+furious, and choleric. A man in such a state regards himself as the
+focus of all miseries. When recovered, he feels chastened, becomes
+urbane and ludicrously amiable, he conjures up fictitious delights from
+all things which, but yesterday, possessed for him such awful portentous
+aspects. His men he regards with love and friendship; whatever is trite
+he views with ecstasy. Nature appears charming; in the dead woods and
+monotonous forest his mind becomes overwhelmed with delight. I speak
+for myself, as a careful analysation of the attack, in all its severe,
+plaintive, and silly phases, appeared to me. I used to amuse myself
+with taking notes of the humorous and the terrible, the fantastic and
+exaggerated pictures that were presented to me--even while suffering the
+paroxysms induced by fever.
+
+We arrived at a large pool, known as the Ziwani, after a four hours'
+march in a S.S.W. direction, the 1st of October. We discovered an old
+half-burnt khambi, sheltered by a magnificent mkuyu (sycamore), the
+giant of the forests of Unyamwezi, which after an hour we transformed
+into a splendid camp.
+
+If I recollect rightly, the stem of the tree measured thirty-eight
+feet in circumference. It is the finest tree of its kind I have seen
+in Africa. A regiment might with perfect ease have reposed under this
+enormous dome of foliage during a noon halt. The diameter of the shadow
+it cast on the ground was one hundred and twenty feet. The healthful
+vigor that I was enjoying about this time enabled me to regard my
+surroundings admiringly. A feeling of comfort and perfect contentment
+took possession of me, such as I knew not while fretting at Unyanyembe,
+wearing my life away in inactivity. I talked with my people as to my
+friends and equals. We argued with each other about our prospects in
+quite a companionable, sociable vein.
+
+When daylight was dying, and the sun was sinking down rapidly over the
+western horizon, vividly painting the sky with the colours of gold
+and silver, saffron, and opal, when its rays and gorgeous tints were
+reflected upon the tops of the everlasting forest, with the quiet and
+holy calm of heaven resting upon all around, and infusing even into the
+untutored minds of those about me the exquisite enjoyments of such a
+life as we were now leading in the depths of a great expanse of forest,
+the only and sole human occupants of it--this was the time, after our
+day's work was ended, and the camp was in a state of perfect security,
+when we all would produce our pipes, and could best enjoy the labors
+which we had performed, and the contentment which follows a work well
+done.
+
+Outside nothing is heard beyond the cry of a stray florican, or
+guinea-fowl, which has lost her mate, or the hoarse croaking of the
+frogs in the pool hard by, or the song of the crickets which seems to
+lull the day to rest; inside our camp are heard the gurgles of the
+gourd pipes as the men inhale the blue ether, which I also love. I am
+contented and happy, stretched on my carpet under the dome of living
+foliage, smoking my short meerschaum, indulging in thoughts--despite the
+beauty of the still grey light of the sky; and of the air of serenity
+which prevails around--of home and friends in distant America, and these
+thoughts soon change to my work--yet incomplete--to the man who to me is
+yet a myth, who, for all I know, may be dead, or may be near or far from
+me tramping through just such a forest, whose tops I see bound the
+view outside my camp. We are both on the same soil, perhaps in the same
+forest--who knows?--yet is he to me so far removed that he might as well
+be in his own little cottage of Ulva. Though I am even now ignorant
+of his very existence, yet I feel a certain complacency, a certain
+satisfaction which would be difficult to describe. Why is man so feeble,
+and weak, that he must tramp, tramp hundreds of miles to satisfy
+the doubts his impatient and uncurbed mind feels? Why cannot my form
+accompany the bold flights of my mind and satisfy the craving I feel to
+resolve the vexed question that ever rises to my lips--"Is he alive?"
+O soul of mine, be patient, thou hast a felicitous tranquillity, which
+other men might envy thee! Sufficient for the hour is the consciousness
+thou hast that thy mission is a holy one! Onward, and be hopeful!
+
+Monday, the 2nd of October, found us traversing the forest and plain
+that extends from the Ziwani to Manyara, which occupied us six and a
+half hours. The sun was intensely hot; but the mtundu and miombo trees
+grew at intervals, just enough to admit free growth to each tree, while
+the blended foliage formed a grateful shade. The path was clear and
+easy, the tamped and firm red soil offered no obstructions. The only
+provocation we suffered was from the attacks of the tsetse, or panga
+(sword) fly, which swarmed here. We knew we were approaching an
+extensive habitat of game, and we were constantly on the alert for any
+specimens that might be inhabiting these forests.
+
+While we were striding onward, at the rate of nearly three miles an
+hour, the caravan I perceived sheered off from the road, resuming it
+about fifty yards ahead of something on the road, to which the attention
+of the men was directed. On coming up, I found the object to be the
+dead body of a man, who had fallen a victim to that fearful scourge
+of Africa, the small-pox. He was one of Oseto's gang of marauders, or
+guerillas, in the service of Mkasiwa of Unyanyembe, who were hunting
+these forests for the guerillas of Mirambo. They had been returning from
+Ukonongo from a raid they had instituted against the Sultan of Mbogo,
+and they had left their comrade to perish in the road. He had apparently
+been only one day dead.
+
+Apropos of this, it was a frequent thing with us to discover a skeleton
+or a skull on the roadside. Almost every day we saw one, sometimes two,
+of these relics of dead, and forgotten humanity.
+
+Shortly after this we emerged from the forest, and entered a mbuga, or
+plain, in which we saw a couple of giraffes, whose long necks were seen
+towering above a bush they had been nibbling at. This sight was greeted
+with a shout; for we now knew we had entered the game country, and that
+near the Gombe creek, or river, where we intended to halt, we should see
+plenty of these animals.
+
+A walk of three hours over this hot plain brought us to the cultivated
+fields of Manyara. Arriving before the village-gate, we were forbidden
+to enter, as the country was throughout in a state of war, and it
+behoved them to be very careful of admitting any party, lest the
+villagers might be compromised. We were, however, directed to a khambi
+to the right of the village, near some pools of clear water, where we
+discovered some half dozen ruined huts, which looked very uncomfortable
+to tired people.
+
+After we had built our camp, the kirangozi was furnished with some
+cloths to purchase food from the village for the transit of a wilderness
+in front of us, which was said to extend nine marches, or 135 miles.
+He was informed that the Mtemi had strictly prohibited his people from
+selling any grain whatever.
+
+This evidently was a case wherein the exercise of a little diplomacy
+could only be effective; because it would detain us several days here,
+if we were compelled to send men back to Kikuru for provisions. Opening
+a bale of choice goods, I selected two royal cloths, and told Bombay to
+carry them to him, with the compliments and friendship of the white man.
+The Sultan sulkily refused them, and bade him return to the white man
+and tell him not to bother him. Entreaties were of no avail, he would
+not relent; and the men, in exceedingly bad temper, and hungry, were
+obliged to go to bed supperless. The words of Njara, a slave-trader,
+and parasite of the great Sheikh bin Nasib, recurred to me. "Ah, master,
+master, you will find the people will be too much for you, and that you
+will have to return. The Wa-manyara are bad, the Wakonongo are very bad,
+the Wazavira are the worst of all. You have come to this country at a
+bad time. It is war everywhere." And, indeed, judging from the tenor
+of the conversations around our camp-fires, it seemed but too evident.
+There was every prospect of a general decamp of all my people. However,
+I told them not to be discouraged; that I would get food for them in the
+morning.
+
+The bale of choice cloths was opened again next morning, and four royal
+cloths were this time selected, and two dotis of Merikani, and Bombay
+was again despatched, burdened with compliments, and polite words.
+
+It was necessary to be very politic with a man who was so surly, and too
+powerful to make an enemy of. What if he made up his mind to imitate
+the redoubtable Mirambo, King of Uyoweh! The effect of my munificent
+liberality was soon seen in the abundance of provender which came to my
+camp. Before an hour went by, there came boxes full of choroko, beans,
+rice, matama or dourra, and Indian corn, carried on the heads of a dozen
+villagers, and shortly after the Mtemi himself came, followed by about
+thirty musketeers and twenty spearmen, to visit the first white man
+ever seen on this road. Behind these warriors came a liberal gift, fully
+equal in value to that sent to him, of several large gourds of honey,
+fowls, goats, and enough vetches and beans to supply my men with four
+days' food.
+
+I met the chief at the gate of my camp, and bowing profoundly, invited
+him to my tent, which I had arranged as well as my circumstances would
+permit, for this reception. My Persian carpet and bear skin were spread
+out, and a broad piece of bran-new crimson cloth covered my kitanda, or
+bedstead.
+
+The chief, a tall robust man, and his chieftains, were invited to seat
+themselves. They cast a look of such gratified surprise at myself, at
+my face, my clothes, and guns, as is almost impossible to describe. They
+looked at me intently for a few seconds, and then at each other, which
+ended in an uncontrollable burst of laughter, and repeated snappings
+of the fingers. They spoke the Kinyamwezi language, and my interpreter
+Maganga was requested to inform the chief of the great delight I felt in
+seeing them. After a short period expended in interchanging compliments,
+and a competitive excellence at laughing at one another, their chief
+desired me to show him my guns. The "sixteen-shooter," the Winchester
+rifle, elicited a thousand flattering observations from the excited man;
+and the tiny deadly revolvers, whose beauty and workmanship they thought
+were superhuman, evoked such gratified eloquence that I was fain to try
+something else. The double-barrelled guns fired with heavy charges of
+power, caused them to jump up in affected alarm, and then to subside
+into their seats convulsed with laughter. As the enthusiasm of my guests
+increased, they seized each other's index fingers, screwed them, and
+pulled at them until I feared they would end in their dislocation. After
+having explained to them the difference between white men and Arabs, I
+pulled out my medicine chest, which evoked another burst of rapturous
+sighs at the cunning neatness of the array of vials. He asked what they
+meant.
+
+"Dowa," I replied sententiously, a word which may be
+interpreted--medicine.
+
+"Oh-h, oh-h," they murmured admiringly. I succeeded, before long, in
+winning unqualified admiration, and my superiority, compared to the
+best of the Arabs they had seen, was but too evident. "Dowa, dowa," they
+added.
+
+"Here," said I, uncorking a vial of medicinal brandy, "is the Kisungu
+pombe" (white man's beer); "take a spoonful and try it," at the same
+time handing it.
+
+"Hacht, hacht, oh, hacht! what! eh! what strong beer the white men
+have! Oh, how my throat burns!"
+
+"Ah, but it is good," said I, "a little of it makes men feel strong, and
+good; but too much of it makes men bad, and they die."
+
+"Let me have some," said one of the chiefs; "and me," "and me," "and
+me," as soon as each had tasted.
+
+"I next produced a bottle of concentrated ammonia, which as I explained
+was for snake bites, and head-aches; the Sultan immediately complained
+he had a head-ache, and must have a little. Telling him to close his
+eyes, I suddenly uncorked the bottle, and presented it to His Majesty's
+nose. The effect was magical, for he fell back as if shot, and such
+contortions as his features underwent are indescribable. His chiefs
+roared with laughter, and clapped their hands, pinched each other,
+snapped their fingers, and committed many other ludicrous things. I
+verily believe if such a scene were presented on any stage in the world
+the effect of it would be visible instantaneously on the audience; that
+had they seen it as I saw it, they would have laughed themselves to
+hysteria and madness. Finally the Sultan recovered himself, great tears
+rolling down his cheeks, and his features quivering with laughter,
+then he slowly uttered the word 'kali,'--hot, strong, quick, or ardent
+medicine. He required no more, but the other chiefs pushed forward
+to get one wee sniff, which they no sooner had, than all went into
+paroxysms of uncontrollable laughter. The entire morning was passed in
+this state visit, to the mutual satisfaction of all concerned. 'Oh,'
+said the Sultan at parting, 'these white men know everything, the Arabs
+are dirt compared to them!'"
+
+That night Hamdallah, one of the guides, deserted, carrying with him his
+hire (27 doti), and a gun. It was useless to follow him in the morning,
+as it would have detained me many more days than I could afford; but
+I mentally vowed that Mr. Hamdallah should work out those 27 doti of
+cloths before I reached the coast.
+
+Wednesday, October 4th, saw us travelling to the Gombe River, which is 4
+h. 15 m. march from Manyara.
+
+We had barely left the waving cornfields of my friend Ma-manyara before
+we came in sight of a herd of noble zebra; two hours afterwards we
+had entered a grand and noble expanse of park land, whose glorious
+magnificence and vastness of prospect, with a far-stretching carpet of
+verdure darkly flecked here and there by miniature clumps of jungle,
+with spreading trees growing here and there, was certainly one of the
+finest scenes to be seen in Africa. Added to which, as I surmounted one
+of the numerous small knolls, I saw herds after herds of buffalo and
+zebra, giraffe and antelope, which sent the blood coursing through my
+veins in the excitement of the moment, as when I first landed on African
+soil. We crept along the plain noiselessly to our camp on the banks of
+the sluggish waters of the Gombe.
+
+Here at last was the hunter's Paradise! How petty and insignificant
+appeared my hunts after small antelope and wild boar what a foolish
+waste of energies those long walks through damp grasses and through
+thorny jungles! Did I not well remember ' my first bitter experience
+in African jungles when in the maritime region! But this--where is
+the nobleman's park that can match this scene? Here is a soft, velvety
+expanse of young grass, grateful shade under those spreading clumps;
+herds of large and varied game browsing within easy rifle range. Surely
+I must feel amply compensated now for the long southern detour I have
+made, when such a prospect as this opens to the view! No thorny jungles
+and rank smelling swamps are here to daunt the hunter, and to sicken
+his aspirations after true sport! No hunter could aspire after a nobler
+field to display his prowess.
+
+Having settled the position of the camp, which overlooked one of
+the pools found in the depression of the Gombe creek, I took my
+double-barrelled smooth-bore, and sauntered off to the park-land.
+Emerging from behind a clump, three fine plump spring-bok were seen
+browsing on the young grass just within one hundred yards. I knelt down
+and fired; one unfortunate antelope bounded upward instinctively, and
+fell dead. Its companions sprang high into the air, taking leaps about
+twelve feet in length, as if they were quadrupeds practising gymnastics,
+and away they vanished, rising up like India-rubber balls; until a
+knoll hid them from view. My success was hailed with loud shouts by the
+soldiers; who came running out from the camp as soon as they heard the
+reverberation of the gun, and my gun-bearer had his knife at the beast's
+throat, uttering a fervent "Bismillah!" as he almost severed the head
+from the body.
+
+Hunters were now directed to proceed east and north to procure meat,
+because in each caravan it generally happens that there are fundi, whose
+special trade it is to hunt for meat for the camp. Some of these are
+experts in stalking, but often find themselves in dangerous positions,
+owing to the near approach necessary, before they can fire their most
+inaccurate weapons with any certainty.
+
+After luncheon, consisting of spring-bok steak, hot corn-cake, and a
+cup of delicious Mocha coffee, I strolled towards the south-west,
+accompanied by Kalulu and Majwara, two boy gun-bearers. The tiny
+perpusilla started up like rabbits from me as I stole along through the
+underbrush; the honey-bird hopped from tree to tree chirping its
+call, as if it thought I was seeking the little sweet treasure, the
+hiding-place of which it only knew; but no! I neither desired perpusilla
+nor the honey. I was on the search for something great this day.
+Keen-eyed fish-eagles and bustards poised on trees above the sinuous
+Gombe thought, and probably with good reason that I was after them;
+judging by the ready flight with which both species disappeared as they
+sighted my approach. Ah, no! nothing but hartebeest, zebra, giraffe,
+eland, and buffalo this day! After following the Gombe's course for
+about a mile, delighting my eyes with long looks at the broad and
+lengthy reaches of water to which I was so long a stranger, I came upon
+a scene which delighted the innermost recesses of my soul; five, six,
+seven, eight, ten zebras switching their beautiful striped bodies, and
+biting one another, within about one hundred and fifty yards. The scene
+was so pretty, so romantic, never did I so thoroughly realize that I
+was in Central Africa. I felt momentarily proud that I owned such a vast
+domain, inhabited with such noble beasts. Here I possessed, within reach
+of a leaden ball, any one I chose of the beautiful animals, the pride of
+the African forests! It was at my option to shoot any of them! Mine they
+were without money or without price; yet, knowing this, twice I dropped
+my rifle, loth to wound the royal beasts, but--crack! and a royal one
+was on his back battling the air with his legs. Ah, it was such a
+pity! but, hasten, draw the keen sharp-edged knife across the beautiful
+stripes which fold around the throat; and--what an ugly gash! it is
+done, and 1 have a superb animal at my feet. Hurrah! I shall taste of
+Ukonongo zebra to-night.
+
+I thought a spring-bok and zebra enough for one day's sport, especially
+after a long march. The Gombe, a long stretch of deep water, winding in
+and out of green groves, calm, placid, with lotus leaves lightly resting
+on its surface, all pretty, picturesque, peaceful as a summer's dream,
+looked very inviting for a bath. I sought out the most shady spot under
+a wide-spreading mimosa, from which the ground sloped smooth as a
+lawn, to the still, clear water. I ventured to undress, and had already
+stepped in to my ancles in the water, and had brought my hands together
+for a glorious dive, when my attention was attracted by an enormously
+long body which shot into view, occupying the spot beneath the surface
+that I was about to explore by a "header." Great heavens, it was
+a crocodile! I sprang backward instinctively, and this proved my
+salvation, for the monster turned away with the most disappointed look,
+and I was left to congratulate myself upon my narrow escape from his
+jaws, and to register a vow never to be tempted again by the treacherous
+calm of an African river.
+
+As soon as I had dressed I turned away from the now repulsive aspect of
+the stream. In strolling through the jungle, towards my camp, I detected
+the forms of two natives looking sharply about them, and, after bidding
+my young attendants to preserve perfect quiet, I crept on towards them,
+and, by the aid of a thick clump of underbush, managed to arrive within
+a few feet of the natives undetected. Their mere presence in the immense
+forest, unexplained, was a cause of uneasiness in the then disturbed
+state of the country, and my intention was to show myself suddenly to
+them, and note its effect, which, if it betokened anything hostile to
+the Expedition, could without difficulty be settled at once, with the
+aid of my double-barrelled smooth-bore.
+
+As I arrived on one side of this bush, the two suspicious-looking
+natives arrived on the other side, and we were separated by only a
+few feet. I made a bound, and we were face to face. The natives cast a
+glance at the sudden figure of a white man, and seemed petrified for a
+moment, but then, recovering themselves, they shrieked out, "Bana, bana,
+you don't know us. We are Wakonongo, who came to your camp to accompany
+you to Mrera, and we are looking for honey."
+
+"Oh, to be sure, you are the Wakonongo. Yes--Yes. Ah, it is all right
+now, I thought you might be Ruga-Ruga."
+
+So the two parties, instead of being on hostile terms with each other,
+burst out laughing. The Wakonongo enjoyed it very much, and laughed
+heartily as they proceeded on their way to search for the wild honey.
+On a piece of bark they carried a little fire with which they smoked the
+bees out from their nest in the great mtundu-trees.
+
+The adventures of the day were over; the azure of the sky had changed
+to a dead grey; the moon was appearing just over the trees; the water
+of the Gombe was like a silver belt; hoarse frogs bellowed their
+notes loudly by the margin of the creek; the fish-eagles uttered their
+dirge-like cries as they were perched high on the tallest tree; elands
+snorted their warning to the herds in the forest; stealthy forms of the
+carnivora stole through the dark woods outside of our camp. Within the
+high inclosure of bush and thorn, which we had raised around our camp,
+all was jollity, laughter, and radiant, genial comfort. Around every
+camp-fire dark forms of men were seen squatted: one man gnawed at a
+luscious bone; another sucked the rich marrow in a zebra's leg-bone;
+another turned the stick, garnished with huge kabobs, to the bright
+blaze; another held a large rib over a flame; there were others busy
+stirring industriously great black potfuls of ugali, and watching
+anxiously the meat simmering, and the soup bubbling, while the
+fire-light flickered and danced bravely, and cast a bright glow over the
+naked forms of the men, and gave a crimson tinge to the tall tent that
+rose in the centre of the camp, like a temple sacred to some mysterious
+god; the fires cast their reflections upon the massive arms of the
+trees, as they branched over our camp, and, in the dark gloom of their
+foliage, the most fantastic shadows were visible. Altogether it was
+a wild, romantic, and impressive scene. But little recked my men for
+shadows and moonlight, for crimson tints, and temple-like tents--they
+were all busy relating their various experiences, and gorging themselves
+with the rich meats our guns had obtained for us. One was telling how he
+had stalked a wild boar, and the furious onset the wounded animal made
+on him, causing him to drop his gun, and climb a tree, and the terrible
+grunt of the beast he well remembered, and the whole welkin rang with
+the peals of laughter which his mimic powers evoked. Another had shot a
+buffalo-calf, and another had bagged a hartebeest; the Wakonongo related
+their laughable rencontre with me in the woods, and were lavish in their
+description of the stores of honey to be found in the woods; and all
+this time Selim and his youthful subs were trying their sharp teeth on
+the meat of a young pig which one of the hunters had shot, but which
+nobody else would eat, because of the Mohammedan aversion to pig, which
+they had acquired during their transformation from negro savagery to the
+useful docility of the Zanzibar freed-man.
+
+We halted the two following days, and made frequent raids on the herds
+of this fine country. The first day I was fairly successful again in
+the sport. I bagged a couple of antelopes, a kudu (A. strepsiceros) with
+fine twisting horns, and a pallah-buck (A. melampus), a reddish-brown
+animal, standing about three and a half feet, with broad posteriors.
+I might have succeeded in getting dozens of animals had I any of those
+accurate, heavy rifles manufactured by Lancaster, Reilly, or Blissett,
+whose every shot tells. But my weapons, save my light smoothbore,
+were unfit for African game. My weapons were more for men. With the
+Winchester rifle, and the Starr's carbine, I was able to hit anything
+within two hundred yards, but the animals, though wounded, invariably
+managed to escape the knife, until I was disgusted with the pea-bullets.
+What is wanted for this country is a heavy bore--No. 10 or 12 is the
+real bone-crusher--that will drop every animal shot in its tracks, by
+which all fatigue and disappointment are avoided. Several times during
+these two days was I disappointed after most laborious stalking and
+creeping along the ground. Once I came suddenly upon an eland while
+I had a Winchester rifle in my hand--the eland and myself mutually
+astonished--at not more than twenty-five yards apart. I fired at its
+chest, and bullet, true to its aim, sped far into the internal parts,
+and the blood spouted from the wound: in a few minutes he was far away,
+and I was too much disappointed to follow him. All love of the chase
+seemed to be dying away before these several mishaps. What were two
+antelopes for one day's sport to the thousands that browsed over the
+plain?
+
+The animals taken to camp during our three days' sport were two
+buffaloes, two wild boar, three hartebeest, one zebra, and one pallah;
+besides which, were shot eight guinea-fowls, three florican, two
+fish-eagles, one pelican, and one of the men caught a couple of large
+silurus fish. In the meantime the people had cut, sliced, and dried
+this bounteous store of meat for our transit through the long wilderness
+before us.
+
+Saturday the 7th day of October, we broke up camp, to the great regret
+of the meat-loving, gormandizing Wangwana. They delegated Bombay early
+in the morning to speak to me, and entreat of me to stop one day longer.
+It was ever the case; they had always an unconquerable aversion to work,
+when in presence of meat. Bombay was well scolded for bearing any such
+request to me after two days' rest, during which time they had been
+filled to repletion with meat. And Bombay was by no means in the best of
+humour; flesh-pots full of meat were more to his taste than a constant
+tramping, and its consequent fatigues. I saw his face settle into sulky
+ugliness, and his great nether lip hanging down limp, which meant as if
+expressed in so many words, "Well, get them to move yourself, you wicked
+hard man! I shall not help you."
+
+An ominous silence followed my order to the kirangozi to sound the
+horn, and the usual singing and chanting were not heard. The men turned
+sullenly to their bales, and Asmani, the gigantic guide, our fundi, was
+heard grumblingly to say he was sorry he had engaged to guide me to the
+Tanganika. However, they started, though reluctantly. I stayed behind
+with my gunbearers, to drive the stragglers on. In about half an hour I
+sighted the caravan at a dead stop, with the bales thrown on the ground,
+and the men standing in groups conversing angrily and excitedly.
+
+Taking my double-barrelled gun from Selim's shoulder, I selected a dozen
+charges of buck-shot, and slipping two of them into the barrels, and
+adjusting my revolvers in order for handy work, I walked on towards
+them. I noticed that the men seized their guns, as I advanced. When
+within thirty yards of the groups, I discovered the heads of two men
+appear above an anthill on my left, with the barrels of their guns
+carelessly pointed toward the road.
+
+I halted, threw the barrel of my gun into the hollow of the left hand,
+and then, taking a deliberate aim at them, threatened to blow their
+heads off if they did not come forward to talk to me. These two men
+were, gigantic Asmani and his sworn companion Mabruki, the guides of
+Sheikh bin Nasib. As it was dangerous not to comply with such an order,
+they presently came, but, keeping my eye on Asmani, I saw him move his
+fingers to the trigger of his gun, and bring his gun to a "ready." Again
+I lifted my gun, and threatened him with instant death, if he did not
+drop his gun.
+
+Asmani came on in a sidelong way with a smirking smile on his face, but
+in his eyes shone the lurid light of murder, as plainly as ever it shone
+in a villain's eyes. Mabruki sneaked to my rear, deliberately putting
+powder in the pan of his musket, but sweeping the gun sharply round, I
+planted the muzzle of it at about two feet from his wicked-looking face,
+and ordered him to drop his gun instantly. He let it fall from his hand
+quickly, and giving him a vigorous poke in the breast with my gun, which
+sent him reeling away a few feet from me, I faced round to Asmani, and
+ordered him to put his gun down, accompanying it with a nervous movement
+of my gun, pressing gently on the trigger at the same time. Never was
+a man nearer his death than was Asmani during those few moments. I was
+reluctant to shed his blood, and I was willing to try all possible means
+to avoid doing so; but if I did not succeed in cowing this ruffian,
+authority was at an end. The truth was, they feared to proceed further
+on the road, and the only possible way of inducing them to move was
+by an overpowering force, and exercise of my power and will in this
+instance, even though he might pay the penalty of his disobedience with
+death. As I was beginning to feel that Asmani had passed his last moment
+on earth, as he was lifting his gun to his shoulder, a form came up from
+behind him, and swept his gun aside with an impatient, nervous movement,
+and I heard Mabruki Burton say in horror-struck accents:
+
+"Man, how dare you point your gun, at the master?" Mabruki then threw
+himself at my feet, and endeavoured to kiss them and entreated me not
+to punish him. "It was all over now," he said; "there would be no more
+quarreling, they would all go as far as the Tanganika, without any more
+noise; and Inshallah!" said he, "we shall find the old Musungu * at
+Ujiji."
+
+*Livingstone
+
+"Speak, men, freedmen, shall we not?--shall we not go to the Tanganika
+without any more trouble? tell the master with one voice."
+
+"Ay Wallah! Ay Wallah! Bana yango! Hamuna manneno mgini!" which
+literally translated means, "Yes by God! Yes by God! my master! There
+are no other words," said each man loudly.
+
+"Ask the master's pardon, man, or go thy way," said Mabruki
+peremptorily, to Asmani: which Asmani did, to the gratification of us
+all.
+
+It remained for me only to extend a general pardon to all except to
+Bombay and Ambari, the instigators of the mutiny, which was now happily
+quelled. For Bombay could have by a word, as my captain, nipped all
+manifestation of bad temper at the outset, had he been so disposed.
+But no, Bombay was more averse to marching than the cowardliest of his
+fellows, not because he was cowardly, but because he loved indolence.
+
+Again the word was given to march, and each man, with astonishing
+alacrity, seized his load, and filed off quickly out of sight.
+
+While on this subject, I may as well give here a sketch of each of the
+principal men whose names must often appear in the following chapters.
+According to rank, they consist of Bombay, Mabruki Burton, Asmani the
+guide, Chowpereh, Ulimengo, Khamisi, Ambari, Jumah, Ferajji the cook,
+Maganga the Mnyamwezi, Selim the Arab boy, and youthful Kalulu a
+gunbearer.
+
+Bombay has received an excellent character from Burton and Speke.
+"Incarnation of honesty" Burton grandly terms him. The truth is, Bombay
+was neither very honest nor very dishonest, i.e., he did not venture
+to steal much. He sometimes contrived cunningly, as he distributed the
+meat, to hide a very large share for his own use. This peccadillo of his
+did not disturb me much; he deserved as captain a larger share than the
+others. He required to be closely watched, and when aware that this was
+the case, he seldom ventured to appropriate more cloth than I would have
+freely given him, had he asked for it. As a personal servant, or valet,
+he would have been unexceptionable, but as a captain or jemadar over his
+fellows, he was out of his proper sphere. It was too much brain-work,
+and was too productive of anxiety to keep him in order. At times he was
+helplessly imbecile in his movements, forgot every order the moment it
+was given him, consistently broke or lost some valuable article, was
+fond of argument, and addicted to bluster. He thinks Hajji Abdullah one
+of the wickedest white men born, because he saw him pick up men's skulls
+and put them in sacks, as if he was about to prepare a horrible medicine
+with them. He wanted to know whether his former master had written down
+all he himself did, and when told that Burton had not said anything,
+in his books upon the Lake Regions, upon collecting skulls at Kilwa,
+thought I would be doing a good work if I published this important
+fact.
+
+     * Bombay intends to make a pilgrimage to visit Speke's grave
+     some day.
+
+     ** I find upon returning to England, that Capt. Burton has
+     informed the world of this "wicked and abominable deed," in
+     his book upon Zanzibar, and that the interesting collection
+     may be seen at the Royal College of Surgeons, London.
+
+
+Mabruki, "Ras-bukra Mabruki," Bull-headed Mabruki, as Burton calls
+him, is a sadly abused man in my opinion. Mabruki, though stupid, is
+faithful. He is entirely out of his element as valet, he might as well
+be clerk. As a watchman he is invaluable, as a second captain or fundi,
+whose duty it is to bring up stragglers, he is superexcellent. He is
+ugly and vain, but he is no coward.
+
+Asmani the guide is a large fellow, standing over six feet, with the
+neck and shoulders of a Hercules. Besides being guide, he is a fundi,
+sometimes called Fundi Asmani, or hunter. A very superstitious man, who
+takes great care of his gun, and talismanic plaited cord, which he has
+dipped in the blood of all the animals he has ever shot. He is afraid of
+lions, and will never venture out where lions are known to be. All other
+animals he regards as game, and is indefatigable in their pursuit. He is
+seldom seen without an apologetic or a treacherous smile on his face. He
+could draw a knife across a man's throat and still smile.
+
+Chowpereh is a sturdy short man of thirty or thereabouts; very
+good-natured, and humorous. When Chowpereh speaks in his dry Mark Twain
+style, the whole camp laughs. I never quarrel with Chowpereh, never
+did quarrel with him. A kind word given to Chowpereh is sure to be
+reciprocated with a good deed. He is the strongest, the healthiest,
+the amiablest, the faithfulest of all. He is the embodiment of a good
+follower.
+
+Khamisi is a neat, cleanly boy of twenty, or thereabouts, active,
+loud-voiced, a boaster, and the cowardliest of the cowardly. He will
+steal at every opportunity. He clings to his gun most affectionately; is
+always excessively anxious if a screw gets loose, or if a flint will
+not strike fire, yet I doubt that he would be able to fire his gun at an
+enemy from excessive trembling. Khamisi would rather trust his safety to
+his feet, which are small, and well shaped.
+
+Ambari is a man of about forty. He is one of the "Faithfuls" of Speke,
+and one of my Faithfuls. He would not run away from me except when in
+the presence of an enemy, and imminent personal danger. He is clever
+in his way, but is not sufficiently clever to enact the part of
+captain--could take charge of a small party, and give a very good
+account of them. Is lazy, and an admirer of good living--abhors
+marching, unless he has nothing to carry but his gun.
+
+Jumah is the best abused man of the party, because he has old-womanish
+ways with him, yet in his old-womanish ways he is disposed to do the
+best he can for me, though he will not carry a pound in weight without
+groaning terribly at his hard fate. To me he is sentimental and
+pathetic; to the unimportant members of the caravan he is stern and
+uncompromising. But the truth is, that I could well dispense with
+Jumah's presence: he was one of the incorrigible inutiles, eating far
+more than he was worth; besides being an excessively grumbling and
+querulous fool.
+
+Ulimengo, a strong stalwart fellow of thirty, was the maddest and most
+hare-brained of my party. Though an arrant coward, he was a consummate
+boaster. But though a devotee of pleasure and fun, he was not averse
+from work. With one hundred men such as he, I could travel through
+Africa provided there was no fighting to do. It will be remembered that
+he was the martial coryphaeus who led my little army to war against
+Mirambo, chanting the battle-song of the Wangwana; and that I stated,
+that when the retreat was determined upon, he was the first of my party
+to reach the stronghold of Mfuto. He is a swift runner, and a fair
+hunter. I have been indebted to him on several occasions for a welcome
+addition to my larder.
+
+Ferajji, a former dish-washer to Speke, was my cook. He was promoted
+to this office upon the defection of Bunder Salaam, and the extreme
+non-fitness of Abdul Kader. For cleaning dishes, the first corn-cob,
+green twig, a bunch of leaves or grass, answered Ferajji's purposes in
+the absence of a cloth. If I ordered a plate, and I pointed out a
+black, greasy, sooty thumbmark to him, a rub of a finger Ferajji thought
+sufficient to remove all objections. If I hinted that a spoon was rather
+dirty, Ferajji fancied that with a little saliva, and a rub of his loin
+cloth, the most fastidious ought to be satisfied. Every pound of meat,
+and every three spoonfuls of musk or porridge I ate in Africa, contained
+at least ten grains of sand. Ferajji was considerably exercised at a
+threat I made to him that on arrival at Zanzibar, I would get the great
+English doctor there to open my stomach, and count every grain of sand
+found in it, for each grain of which Ferajji should be charged one
+dollar. The consciousness that my stomach must contain a large number,
+for which the forfeits would be heavy, made him feel very sad at
+times. Otherwise, Ferajji was a good cook, most industrious, if not
+accomplished. He could produce a cup of tea, and three or four hot
+pancakes, within ten minutes after a halt was ordered, for which I was
+most grateful, as I was almost always hungry after a long march. Ferajji
+sided with Baraka against Bombay in Unyoro, and when Speke took Bombay's
+side of the question, Ferajji, out of love for Baraka, left Speke's
+service, and so forfeited his pay.
+
+Maganga was a Mnyamwezi, a native of Mkwenkwe, a strong, faithful
+servant, an excellent pagazi, with an irreproachable temper. He it was
+who at all times, on the march, started the wildly exuberant song of the
+Wanyamwezi porters, which, no matter how hot the sun, or how long the
+march, was sure to produce gaiety and animation among the people. At
+such times all hands sang, sang with voices that could be heard miles
+away, which made the great forests ring with the sounds, which startled
+every animal big or little, for miles around. On approaching a village
+the temper of whose people might be hostile to us, Maganga would
+commence his song, with the entire party joining in the chorus, by
+which mode we knew whether the natives were disposed to be friendly or
+hostile. If hostile, or timid, the gates would at once be closed, and
+dark faces would scowl at us from the interior; if friendly, they rushed
+outside of their gates to welcome us, or to exchange friendly remarks.
+
+An important member of the Expedition was Selim, the young Arab. Without
+some one who spoke good Arabic, I could not have obtained the friendship
+of the chief Arabs in Unyanyembe; neither could I have well communicated
+with them, for though I understood Arabic, I could not speak it.
+
+I have already related how Kalulu came to be in my service, and how he
+came to bear his present name. I soon found how apt and quick he was to
+learn, in consequence of which, he was promoted to the rank of personal
+attendant. Even Selim could not vie with Kalulu in promptness and
+celerity, or in guessing my wants at the table. His little black eyes
+were constantly roving over the dishes, studying out the problem of what
+was further necessary, or had become unnecessary.
+
+We arrived at the Ziwani, in about 4 h. 30 m. from the time of our
+quitting the scene which had well-nigh witnessed a sanguinary conflict.
+The Ziwani, or pool, contained no water, not a drop, until the parched
+tongues of my people warned them that they must proceed and excavate
+for water. This excavation was performed (by means of strong hard sticks
+sharply pointed) in the dry hard-caked bottom. After digging to a depth
+of six feet their labours were rewarded with the sight of a few drops of
+muddy liquid percolating through the sides, which were eagerly swallowed
+to relieve their raging thirst. Some voluntarily started with buckets,
+gourds, and canteens south to a deserted clearing called the "Tongoni"
+in Ukamba, and in about three hours returned with a plentiful supply for
+immediate use, of good and clear water.
+
+In 1 h. 30 m. we arrived at this Tongoni, or deserted clearing of
+the Wakamba. Here were three or four villages burnt, and an extensive
+clearing desolate, the work of the Wa-Ruga-Raga of Mirambo. Those of the
+inhabitants who were left, after the spoliation and complete destruction
+of the flourishing settlement, emigrated westerly to Ugara. A large
+herd of buffalo now slake their thirst at the pool which supplied the
+villages of Ukamba with water.
+
+Great masses of iron haematite cropped up above the surfaces in these
+forests. Wild fruit began to be abundant; the wood-apple and tamarind
+and a small plum-like fruit, furnished us with many an agreeable repast.
+
+The honey-bird is very frequent in these forests of Ukonongo. Its cry is
+a loud, quick chirrup. The Wakonongo understand how to avail themselves
+of its guidance to the sweet treasure of honey which the wild bees have
+stored in the cleft of some great tree. Daily, the Wakonongo who had
+joined our caravan brought me immense cakes of honey-comb, containing
+delicious white and red honey. The red honey-comb generally contains
+large numbers of dead bees, but our exceedingly gluttonous people
+thought little of these. They not only ate the honey-bees, but they also
+ate a good deal of the wax.
+
+As soon as the honey-bird descries the traveller, he immediately utters
+a series of wild, excited cries, hops about from twig to twig, and from
+branch to branch, then hops to another tree, incessantly repeating his
+chirruping call. The native, understanding the nature of the little
+bird, unhesitatingly follows him; but perhaps his steps are too slow for
+the impatient caller, upon which he flies back, urging him louder, more
+impatient cries, to hasten, and then darts swiftly forward, as if he
+would show how quickly he could go to the honey-store, until at last the
+treasure is reached, the native has applied fire to the bees' nest, and
+secured the honey, while the little bird preens himself, and chirrups in
+triumphant notes, as if he were informing the biped that without his aid
+he never could have found the honey.
+
+Buffalo gnats and tsetse were very troublesome on this march, owing to
+the numerous herds of game in the vicinity.
+
+On the 9th of October we made a long march in a southerly direction, and
+formed our camp in the centre of a splendid grove of trees. The water
+was very scarce on the road. The Wamrima and Wanyamwezi are not long
+able to withstand thirst. When water is plentiful they slake their
+thirst at every stream and pool; when it is scarce, as it is here and
+in the deserts of Marenga and Magunda Mkali, long afternoon-marches are
+made; the men previously, however, filling their gourds, so as to enable
+them to reach the water early next morning. Selim was never able to
+endure thirst. It mattered not how much of the precious liquid he
+carried, he generally drank it all before reaching camp, and he
+consequently suffered during the night. Besides this, he endangered
+his life by quaffing from every muddy pool; and on this day he began to
+complain that he discharged blood, which I took to be an incipient stage
+of dysentery.
+
+During these marches, ever since quitting Ugunda, a favourite topic
+at the camp-fires were the Wa-Ruga-Ruga, and their atrocities, and a
+possible encounter that we might have with these bold rovers of
+the forest. I verily believe that a sudden onset of half a dozen of
+Mirambo's people would have set the whole caravan arunning.
+
+We reached Marefu the next day, after a short three hours' march. We
+there found an embassy sent by the Arabs of Unyanyembe, to the Southern
+Watuta, bearing presents of several bales, in charge of Hassan the
+Mseguhha. This valiant leader and diplomatist had halted here some ten
+days because of wars and rumours of wars in his front. It was said that
+Mbogo, Sultan of Mboga in Ukonongo, was at war with the brother of Manwa
+Sera, and as Mbogo was a large district of Ukonongo only two days' march
+from Marefu; fear of being involved in it was deterring old Hassan from
+proceeding. He advised me also not to proceed, as it was impossible to
+be able to do so without being embroiled in the conflict. I informed
+him that I intended to proceed on my way, and take my chances, and
+graciously offered him my escort as far as the frontier of Ufipa, from
+which he could easily and safely continue on his way to the Watuta, but
+he declined it.
+
+We had now been travelling fourteen days in a south-westerly direction,
+having made a little more than one degree of latitude. I had intended to
+have gone a little further south, because it was such a good road, also
+since by going further south we should have labored under no fear of
+meeting Mirambo; but the report of this war in our front, only two days
+off, compelled me, in the interest of the Expedition, to strike across
+towards the Tanganika, an a west-by-north course through the forest,
+travelling, when it was advantageous, along elephant tracks and local
+paths. This new plan was adopted after consulting with Asmani, the
+guide. We were now in Ukonongo, having entered this district when
+we crossed the Gombe creek. The next day after arriving at Marefu we
+plunged westward, in view of the villagers, and the Arab ambassador,
+who kept repeating until the last moment that we should "certainly catch
+it."
+
+We marched eight hours through a forest, where the forest peach, or the
+"mbembu," is abundant. The tree that bears this fruit is very like
+a pear-tree, and is very productive. I saw one tree, upon which I
+estimated there were at least six or seven bushels. I ate numbers of the
+peaches on this day. So long as this fruit can be produced, a traveller
+in these regions need not fear starvation.
+
+At the base of a graceful hilly cone we found a village called Utende,
+the inhabitants of which were in a state of great alarm, as we suddenly
+appeared on the ridge above them. Diplomacy urged me to send forward a
+present of one doti to the Sultan, who, however, would not accept it,
+because he happened to be drunk with pombe, and was therefore disposed
+to be insolent. Upon being informed that he would refuse any present,
+unless he received four more cloths, I immediately ordered a strong
+boma to be constructed on the summits of a little hill, near enough to
+a plentiful supply of water, and quietly again packed up the present in
+the bale. I occupied a strategically chosen position, as I could have
+swept the face of the hill, and the entire space between its base and
+the village of Watende. Watchmen were kept on the look-out all
+night; but we were fortunately not troubled until the morning; when
+a delegation of the principal men came to ask if I intended to depart
+without having made a present to the chief. I replied to them that I did
+not intend passing through any country without making friends with the
+chief; and if their chief would accept a good cloth from me, I would
+freely give it to him. Though they demurred at the amount of the present
+at first, the difference between us was finally ended by my adding a
+fundo of red beads--sami-sami--for the chief's wife.
+
+From the hill and ridge of Utende sloped a forest for miles and miles
+westerly, which was terminated by a grand and smooth-topped ridge rising
+500 or 600 feet above the plain.
+
+A four hours' march, on the 12th of October, brought us to a nullah
+similar to the Gombe, which, during the wet season, flows to the Gombe
+River, and thence into the Malagarazi River.
+
+A little before camping we saw a herd of nimba, or pallah; I had the
+good fortune to shoot one, which was a welcome addition to our fast
+diminishing store of dried meats, prepared in our camp on the Gombe. By
+the quantity of bois de vaches, we judged buffaloes were plentiful here,
+as well as elephant and rhinoceros. The feathered species were well
+represented by ibis, fish-eagles, pelicans, storks, cranes, several
+snowy spoon-bills, and flamingoes.
+
+From the nullah, or mtoni, we proceeded to Mwaru, the principal village
+of the district of Mwaru, the chief of which is Ka-mirambo. Our march
+lay over desolated clearings once occupied by Ka-mirambo's people, but
+who were driven away by Mkasiwa some ten years ago, during his warfare
+against Manwa Sera. Niongo, the brother of the latter, now waging war
+against Mbogo, had passed through Mwaru the day before we arrived, after
+being defeated by his enemy.
+
+The hilly ridge that bounded the westward horizon, visible from Utende,
+was surmounted on this day. The western slope trends south-west, and is
+drained by the River Mrera, which empties into the Malagarazi River. We
+perceived the influence of the Tanganika, even here, though we were
+yet twelve or fifteen marches from the lake. The jungles increased in
+density, and the grasses became enormously tall; these points reminded
+us of the maritime districts of Ukwere and Ukami.
+
+We heard from a caravan at this place, just come from Ufipa, that
+a white man was reported to be in "Urua," whom I supposed to mean
+Livingstone.
+
+Upon leaving Mwaru we entered the district of Mrera, a chief who once
+possessed great power and influence over this region. Wars, however,
+have limited his possessions to three or four villages snugly embosomed
+within a jungle, whose outer rim is so dense that it serves like a stone
+wall to repel invaders. There were nine bleached skulls, stuck on the
+top of as many poles, before the principal gate of entrance, which told
+us of existing feuds between the Wakonongo and the Wazavira. This latter
+tribe dwelt in a country a few marches west of us; whose territory
+we should have to avoid, unless we sought another opportunity to
+distinguish ourselves in battle with the natives. The Wazavira, we were
+told by the Wakonongo of Mrera, were enemies to all Wangwana.
+
+In a narrow strip of marsh between Mwaru and Mrera, we saw a small herd
+of wild elephants. It was the first time I had ever seen these animals
+in their native wildness, and my first impressions of them I shall not
+readily forget. I am induced to think that the elephant deserves the
+title of "king of beasts." His huge form, the lordly way in which he
+stares at an intruder on his domain, and his whole appearance indicative
+of conscious might, afford good grounds for his claim to that title.
+This herd, as we passed it at the distance of a mile, stopped to survey
+the caravan as it passed: and, after having satisfied their curiosity,
+the elephants trooped into the forest which bounded the marshy plain
+southward, as if caravans were every-day things to them, whilst
+they--the free and unconquerable lords of the forest and the marsh--had
+nothing in common with the cowardly bipeds, who never found courage to
+face them in fair combat. The destruction which a herd makes in a forest
+is simply tremendous. When the trees are young whole swathes may be
+found uprooted and prostrate, which mark the track of the elephants as
+they "trampled their path through wood and brake."
+
+The boy Selim was so ill at this place that I was compelled to halt the
+caravan for him for two days. He seemed to be affected with a disease
+in the limbs, which caused him to sprawl, and tremble most painfully,
+besides suffering from an attack of acute dysentery. But constant
+attendance and care soon brought him round again; and on the third day
+he was able to endure the fatigue of riding.
+
+I was able to shoot several animals during our stay at Mrera. The forest
+outside of the cultivation teems with noble animals. Zebra, giraffe,
+elephant, and rhinoceros are most common; ptarmigan and guinea-fowl were
+also plentiful.
+
+The warriors of Mrera are almost all armed with muskets, of which they
+take great care. They were very importunate in their demands for flints,
+bullets, and powder, which I always made it a point to refuse, lest
+at any moment a fracas occurring they might use the ammunition thus
+supplied to my own disadvantage. The men of this village were an idle
+set, doing little but hunting, gaping, gossiping, and playing like great
+boys. During the interval of my stay at Mrera I employed a large portion
+of my time in mending my shoes, and patching up the great rents in my
+clothes, which the thorn species, during the late marches, had almost
+destroyed. Westward, beyond Mrera, was a wilderness, the transit of
+which we were warned would occupy nine days hence arose the necessity
+to purchase a large supply of grain, which, ere attempting the great
+uninhabited void in our front, was to be ground and sifted.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI. -- THROUGH UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI.
+
+     Happy auspices,--Ant-hills.--The water-shed of the Tanganika
+     Lion.--The king of Kasera.--The home of the lion and the
+     leopard.--A donkey frightens a leopard--Sublime scenes in
+     Kawendi,--Starvation imminent.--Amenities of travel in
+     Africa.--Black-mailers.--The stormy children of Uhha.--News
+     of a white man.--Energetic marches--Mionvu, chief of
+     tribute-takers.--An escape at midnight.--Toiling through the
+     jungles.--The Lake Mountains.--First view of the Tanganika.--
+     Arrival at Ujiji,--The happy meeting with Livingstone.
+
+
+We bade farewell to Mrera on the 17th of October, to continue our route
+north-westward. All the men and I were firm friends now; all squabbling
+had long ceased. Bombay and I had forgotten our quarrel; the kirangozi
+and myself were ready to embrace, so loving and affectionate were the
+terms upon which we stood towards one another. Confidence returned to
+all hearts--for now, as Mabruk Unyanyembe said, "we could smell the fish
+of the Tanganika." Unyanyembe, with all its disquietude, was far behind.
+We could snap our fingers at that terrible Mirambo and his unscrupulous
+followers, and by-and-by, perhaps, we may be able to laugh at the timid
+seer who always prophesied portentous events--Sheikh, the son of Nasib.
+We laughed joyously, as we glided in Indian file through the young
+forest jungle beyond the clearing of Mrera, and boasted of our prowess.
+Oh! we were truly brave that morning!
+
+Emerging from the jungle, we entered a thin forest, where numerous
+ant-hills were seen like so many sand-dunes. I imagine that these
+ant-hills were formed during a remarkably wet season, when, possibly,
+the forest-clad plain was inundated. I have seen the ants at work
+by thousands, engaged in the work of erecting their hills in other
+districts suffering from inundation. What a wonderful system of cells
+these tiny insects construct! A perfect labyrinth--cell within cell,
+room within room, hall within hall--an exhibition of engineering talents
+and high architectural capacity--a model city, cunningly contrived for
+safety and comfort!
+
+Emerging after a short hour's march out of the forest, we welcome the
+sight of a murmuring translucent stream, swiftly flowing towards the
+north-west, which we regard with the pleasure which only men who have
+for a long time sickened themselves with that potable liquid of the
+foulest kind, found in salinas, mbugas, pools, and puddle holes, can
+realize. Beyond this stream rises a rugged and steep ridge, from the
+summit of which our eyes are gladdened with scenes that are romantic,
+animated and picturesque. They form an unusual feast to eyes sated with
+looking into the depths of forests, at towering stems of trees, and at
+tufted crowns of foliage. We have now before us scores of cones, dotting
+the surface of a plain which extends across Southern Ukonongo to the
+territory of the Wafipa, and which reaches as far as the Rikwa Plain.
+The immense prospect before which we are suddenly ushered is most
+varied; exclusive of conical hills and ambitious flat-topped and
+isolated mountains, we are in view of the watersheds of the Rungwa
+River, which empties into the Tanganika south of where we stand, and of
+the Malagarazi River, which the Tanganika receives, a degree or so north
+of this position. A single but lengthy latitudinal ridge serves as a
+dividing line to the watershed of the Rungwa and Malagarazi; and a score
+of miles or so further west of this ridge rises another, which runs
+north and south.
+
+We camped on this day in the jungle, close to a narrow ravine with a
+marshy bottom, through the oozy, miry contents of which the waters from
+the watershed of the Rungwa slowly trickled southward towards the Rikwa
+Plain. This was only one of many ravines, however, some of which were
+several hundred yards broad, others were but a few yards in width, the
+bottoms of which were most dangerous quagmires, overgrown with dense
+tall reeds and papyrus. Over the surface of these great depths of mud
+were seen hundreds of thin threads of slimy ochre-coloured water, which
+swarmed with animalculae. By-and-by, a few miles south of the base
+of this ridge (which I call Kasera, from the country which it cuts in
+halves), these several ravines converge and debouch into the
+broad, [marshy?], oozy, spongy "river" of Usense, which trends in a
+south-easterly direction; after which, gathering the contents of the
+watercourses from the north and northeast into its own broader channel,
+it soon becomes a stream of some breadth and consequence, and meets a
+river flowing from the east, from the direction of Urori, with which it
+conflows in the Rikwa Plain, and empties about sixty rectilineal miles
+further west into the Tanganika Lake. The Rungwa River, I am informed,
+is considered as a boundary line between the country of Usowa on the
+north, and Ufipa on the south.
+
+We had barely completed the construction of our camp defences when
+some of the men were heard challenging a small party of natives which
+advanced towards our camp, headed by a man who, from his garb and
+head-dress, we knew was from Zanzibar. After interchanging the customary
+salutations, I was informed that this party was an embassy from Simba
+("Lion"), who ruled over Kasera, in Southern Unyamwezi. Simba, I was
+told, was the son of Mkasiwa, King of Unyanyembe, and was carrying on
+war with the Wazavira, of whom I was warned to beware. He had heard such
+reports of my greatness that he was sorry I did not take his road to
+Ukawendi, that he might have had the opportunity of seeing me, and
+making friends with me; but in the absence of a personal visit Simba had
+sent this embassy to overtake me, in the hope that I would present him
+with a token of my friendship in the shape of cloth. Though I was rather
+taken aback by the demand, still it was politic in me to make this
+powerful chief my friend, lest on my return from the search after
+Livingstone he and I might fall out. And since it was incumbent on me
+to make a present, for the sake of peace, it was necessary to exhibit
+my desire for peace by giving--if I gave at all--a royal present. The
+ambassador conveyed from me to Simba, or the "Lion" of Kasera, two
+gorgeous cloths, and two other doti consisting of Merikani and Kaniki;
+and, if I might believe the ambassador, I had made Simba a friend for
+ever.
+
+On the 18th of October, breaking camp at the usual hour, we continued
+our march north-westward by a road which zig-zagged along the base of
+the Kasera mountains, and which took us into all kinds of difficulties.
+We traversed at least a dozen marshy ravines, the depth of mire and
+water in which caused the utmost anxiety. I sunk up to my neck in deep
+holes in the Stygian ooze caused by elephants, and had to tramp through
+the oozy beds of the Rungwa sources with any clothes wet and black with
+mud and slime. Decency forbade that I should strip; and the hot sun
+would also blister my body. Moreover, these morasses were too frequent
+to lose time in undressing and dressing, and, as each man was weighted
+with his own proper load, it would have been cruel to compel the men
+to bear me across. Nothing remained, therefore, but to march on, all
+encumbered as I was with my clothing and accoutrements, into these
+several marshy watercourses, with all the philosophical stoicism that my
+nature could muster for such emergencies. But it was very uncomfortable,
+to say the least of it.
+
+We soon entered the territory of the dreaded Wazavira, but no enemy was
+in sight. Simba, in his wars, had made clean work of the northern
+part of Uzavira, and we encountered nothing worse than a view of the
+desolated country, which must have been once--judging from the number
+of burnt huts and debris of ruined villages--extremely populous. A young
+jungle was sprouting up vigorously in their fields, and was rapidly
+becoming the home of wild denizens of the forest. In one of the deserted
+and ruined villages, I found quarters for the Expedition, which were
+by no means uncomfortable. I shot three brace of guinea-fowl in the
+neighbourhood of Misonghi, the deserted village we occupied, and
+Ulimengo, one of my hunters, bagged an antelope, called the "mbawala,"
+for whose meat some of the Wanyamwezi have a superstitious aversion. I
+take this species of antelope, which stands about three and a half
+feet high, of a reddish hide, head long, horns short, to be the "Nzoe"
+antelope discovered by Speke in Uganda, and whose Latin designation
+is, according to Dr. Sclater, "Tragelaphus Spekii." It has a short bushy
+tail, and long hair along the spine.
+
+A long march in a west-by-north direction, lasting six hours, through
+a forest where the sable antelope was seen, and which was otherwise
+prolific with game, brought us to a stream which ran by the base of
+a lofty conical hill, on whose slopes flourished quite a forest of
+feathery bamboo.
+
+On the 20th, leaving our camp, which lay between the stream and the
+conical hill above mentioned, and surmounting a low ridge which sloped
+from the base of the hill-cone, we were greeted with another picturesque
+view, of cones and scarped mountains, which heaved upward in all
+directions. A march of nearly five hours through this picturesque
+country brought us to the Mpokwa River, one of the tributaries of the
+Rungwa, and to a village lately deserted by the Wazavira. The huts
+were almost all intact, precisely as they were left by their former
+inhabitants. In the gardens were yet found vegetables, which, after
+living so long on meat, were most grateful to us. On the branches of
+trees still rested the Lares and Penates of the Wazavira, in the shape
+of large and exceedingly well-made earthen pots.
+
+In the neighbouring river one of my men succeeded, in few minutes, in
+catching sixty fish of the silurus species the hand alone. A number of
+birds hovered about stream, such as the white-headed fish-eagle and the
+kingfisher, enormous, snowy spoonbills, ibis, martins, &c. This river
+issued from a mountain clump eight miles or so north of the village
+of Mpokwa, and comes flowing down a narrow thread of water, sinuously
+winding amongst tall reeds and dense brakes on either side-the home
+of hundreds of antelopes and buffaloes. South of Mpokwa, the valley
+broadens, and the mountains deflect eastward and westward, and beyond
+this point commences the plain known as the Rikwa, which, during the
+Masika is inundated, but which, in the dry season, presents the same
+bleached aspect that plains in Africa generally do when the grass has
+ripened.
+
+Travelling up along the right bank of the Mpokwa, on the 21st we came
+to the head of the stream, and the sources of the Mpokwa, issuing out of
+deep defiles enclosed by lofty ranges. The mbawala and the buffalo were
+plentiful.
+
+On the 22nd, after a march of four hours and a half, we came to the
+beautiful stream of Mtambu--the water of which was sweet, and clear as
+crystal, and flowed northward. We saw for the first time the home of the
+lion and the leopard. Hear what Freiligrath says of the place:
+
+
+     Where the thorny brake and thicket
+     Densely fill the interspace
+     Of the trees, through whose thick branches
+     Never sunshine lights the place,
+     There the lion dwells, a monarch,
+     Mightiest among the brutes;
+     There his right to reign supremest
+     Never one his claim disputes.
+     There he layeth down to slumber,
+     Having slain and ta'en his fill;
+     There he roameth, there be croucheth,
+     As it suits his lordly will.
+
+
+We camped but a few yards from just such a place as the poet describes.
+The herd-keeper who attended the goats and donkeys, soon after our
+arrival in camp, drove the animals to water, and in order to obtain it
+they travelled through a tunnel in the brake, caused by elephants and
+rhinoceros. They had barely entered the dark cavernous passage, when a
+black-spotted leopard sprang, and fastened its fangs in the neck of
+one of the donkeys, causing it, from the pain, to bray hideously. Its
+companions set up such a frightful chorus, and so lashed their heels in
+the air at the feline marauder, that the leopard bounded away through
+the brake, as if in sheer dismay at the noisy cries which the attack
+had provoked. The donkey's neck exhibited some frightful wounds, but the
+animal was not dangerously hurt.
+
+Thinking that possibly I might meet with an adventure with a lion or a
+leopard in that dark belt of tall trees, under whose impenetrable
+shade grew the dense thicket that formed such admirable coverts for the
+carnivorous species, I took a stroll along the awesome place with
+the gunbearer, Kalulu, carrying an extra gun, and a further supply of
+ammunition. We crept cautiously along, looking keenly into the deep
+dark dens, the entrances of which were revealed to us, as we journeyed,
+expectant every moment to behold the reputed monarch of the brake and
+thicket, bound forward to meet us, and I took a special delight in
+picturing, in my imagination, the splendor and majesty of the wrathful
+brute, as he might stand before me. I peered closely into every dark
+opening, hoping to see the deadly glitter of the great angry eyes, and
+the glowering menacing front of the lion as he would regard me. But,
+alas! after an hour's search for adventure, I had encountered nothing,
+and I accordingly waxed courageous, and crept into one of these leafy,
+thorny caverns, and found myself shortly standing under a canopy of
+foliage that was held above my head fully a hundred feet by the shapely
+and towering stems of the royal mvule. Who can imagine the position? A
+smooth lawn-like glade; a dense and awful growth of impenetrable jungle
+around us; those stately natural pillars--a glorious phalanx of royal
+trees, bearing at such sublime heights vivid green masses of foliage,
+through which no single sun-ray penetrated, while at our feet babbled
+the primeval brook, over smooth pebbles, in soft tones befitting the
+sacred quiet of the scene! Who could have desecrated this solemn, holy
+harmony of nature? But just as I was thinking it impossible that any man
+could be tempted to disturb the serene solitude of the place, I saw
+a monkey perched high on a branch over my head, contemplating, with
+something of an awe-struck look, the strange intruders beneath. Well, I
+could not help it, I laughed--laughed loud and long, until I was hushed
+by the chaos of cries and strange noises which seemed to respond to my
+laughing. A troop of monkeys, hidden in the leafy depths above, had been
+rudely awakened, and, startled by the noise I made, were hurrying away
+from the scene with a dreadful clamor of cries and shrieks.
+
+Emerging again into the broad sunlight, I strolled further in search
+of something to shoot. Presently, I saw, feeding quietly in the
+forest which bounded the valley of the Mtambu on the left, a huge,
+reddish-coloured wild boar, armed with most horrid tusks. Leaving Kalulu
+crouched down behind a tree, and my solar helmet behind another close
+by--that I might more safely stalk the animal--I advanced towards him
+some forty yards, and after taking a deliberate aim, fired at his fore
+shoulder. As if nothing had hurt him whatever, the animal made a furious
+bound, and then stood with his bristles erected, and tufted tail, curved
+over the back--a most formidable brute in appearance. While he was thus
+listening, and searching the neighbourhood with his keen, small eyes,
+I planted another shot in his chest, which ploughed its way through his
+body. Instead of falling, however, as I expected he would, he charged
+furiously in the direction the bullet had come, and as he rushed past
+me, another ball was fired, which went right through him; but still he
+kept on, until, within six or seven yards from the trees behind which
+Kalulu was crouching down on one side, and the helmet was resting behind
+another, he suddenly halted, and then dropped. But as I was about to
+advance on him with my knife to cut his throat, he suddenly started
+up; his eyes had caught sight of the little boy Kalulu, and were then,
+almost immediately afterwards, attracted by the sight of the snowy
+helmet. These strange objects on either side of him proved too much for
+the boar, for, with a terrific grunt, he darted on one side into a
+thick brake, from which it was impossible to oust him, and as it was now
+getting late, and the camp was about three miles away, I was reluctantly
+obliged to return without the meat.
+
+On our way to camp we were accompanied by a large animal which
+persistently followed us on our left. It was too dark to see plainly,
+but a large form was visible, if not very clearly defined. It must have
+been a lion, unless it was the ghost of the dead boar.
+
+That night, about 11 P.M., we were startled by the roar of a lion, in
+close proximity to the camp. Soon it was joined by another, and another
+still, and the novelty of the thing kept me awake. I peered through
+the gate of the camp, and endeavoured to sight a rifle--my little
+Winchester, in the accuracy of which I had perfect confidence; but,
+alas! for the cartridges, they might have been as well filled with
+sawdust for all the benefit I derived from them. Disgusted with the
+miserable ammunition, I left the lions alone, and turned in, with their
+roaring as a lullaby.
+
+That terrestrial paradise for the hunter, the valley of the pellucid
+Mtambu, was deserted by us the next morning for the settlement commonly
+known to the Wakawendi as Imrera's, with as much unconcern as though
+it were a howling desert. The village near which we encamped was called
+Itaga, in the district of Rusawa. As soon as we had crossed the River
+Mtambu we had entered Ukawendi, commonly called "Kawendi" by the natives
+of the country.
+
+The district of Rusawa is thickly populated. The people are quiet and
+well-disposed to strangers, though few ever come to this region from
+afar. One or two Wasawahili traders visit it every year or so from
+Pumburu and Usowa; but very little ivory being obtained from the people,
+the long distance between the settlements serves to deter the regular
+trader from venturing hither.
+
+If caravans arrive here, the objective point to them is the district
+of Pumburu, situated south-westerly one day's good marching, or,
+say, thirty statute miles from Imrera; or they make for Usowa, on the
+Tanganika, via Pumburu, Katuma, Uyombeh, and Ugarawah. Usowa is quite an
+important district on the Tanganika, populous and flourishing. This was
+the road we had intended to adopt after leaving Imrera, but the reports
+received at the latter place forbade such a venture. For Mapunda, the
+Sultan of Usowa, though a great friend to Arab traders, was at war with
+the colony of the Wazavira, who we must remember were driven from
+Mpokwa and vicinity in Utanda, and who were said to have settled between
+Pumburu and Usowa.
+
+It remained for us, like wise, prudent men, having charge of a large and
+valuable Expedition on our hands, to decide what to do, and what route
+to adopt, now that we had approached much nearer to Ujiji than we were
+to Unyanyembe. I suggested that we should make direct for the Tanganika
+by compass, trusting to no road or guide, but to march direct west until
+we came to the Tanganika, and then follow the lake shore on foot until
+we came to Ujiji. For it ever haunted my mind, that, if Dr. Livingstone
+should hear of my coming, which he might possibly do if I travelled
+along any known road, he would leave, and that my search for him would
+consequently be a "stern chase." But my principal men thought it better
+that we should now boldly turn our faces north, and march for the
+Malagarazi, which was said to be a large river flowing from the east
+to the Tanganika. But none of my men knew the road to the Malagarazi,
+neither could guides be hired from Sultan Imrera. We were, however,
+informed that the Malagarazi was but two days' march from Imrera. I
+thought it safe, in such a case, to provision my men with three days'
+rations. The village of Itaga is situated in a deep mountain hollow,
+finely overlooking a large extent of cultivation. The people grow sweet
+potatoes, manioc--out of which tapioca is made--beans, and the holcus.
+Not one chicken could be purchased for love or money, and, besides
+grain, only a lean, scraggy specimen of a goat, a long time ago imported
+form Uvinza, was procurable.
+
+October the 25th will be remembered by me as a day of great troubles; in
+fact, a series of troubles began from this date. We struck an easterly
+road in order to obtain a passage to the lofty plateau which bounded the
+valley of Imrera on the west and on the north. We camped, after a two
+and a half hours' march, at its foot. The defile promised a feasible
+means of ascent to the summit of the plateau, which rose upward in a
+series of scarps a thousand feet above the valley of Imrera.
+
+While ascending that lofty arc of mountains which bounded westerly
+and northerly the basin of Imrera, extensive prospects southward and
+eastward were revealed. The character of the scenery at Ukawendi is
+always animated and picturesque, but never sublime. The folds of this
+ridge contained several ruins of bomas, which seemed to have been
+erected during war time.
+
+The mbemba fruit was plentiful along this march, and every few minutes I
+could see from the rear one or two men hastening to secure a treasure of
+it which they discovered on the ground.
+
+A little before reaching the camp I had a shot at a leopard, but failed
+to bring him down as he bounded away. At night the lions roared as at
+the Mtambu River.
+
+A lengthy march under the deep twilight shadows of a great forest, which
+protected us from the hot sunbeams, brought us, on the next day, to a
+camp newly constructed by a party of Arabs from Ujiji, who had advanced
+thus far on their road to Unyanyembe, but, alarmed at the reports of the
+war between Mirambo and the Arabs, had returned. Our route was along the
+right bank of the Rugufu, a broad sluggish stream, well choked with
+the matete reeds and the papyrus. The tracks and the bois de vaches
+of buffaloes were numerous, and there were several indications of
+rhinoceros being near. In a deep clump of timber near this river we
+discovered a colony of bearded and leonine-looking monkeys.
+
+As we were about leaving our camp on the morning of the 28th a herd of
+buffalo walked deliberately into view. Silence was quickly restored,
+but not before the animals, to their great surprise, had discovered the
+danger which confronted them. We commenced stalking them, but we soon
+heard the thundering sound of their gallop, after which it becomes a
+useless task to follow them, with a long march in a wilderness before
+one.
+
+The road led on this day over immense sheets of sandstone and iron ore.
+The water was abominable, and scarce, and famine began to stare us
+in the face. We travelled for six hours, and had yet seen no sign of
+cultivation anywhere. According to my map we were yet two long marches
+from the Malagarazi--if Captain Burton had correctly laid down the
+position of the river; according to the natives' account, we should have
+arrived at the Malagarazi on this day.
+
+On the 29th we left our camp, and after a few minutes, we were in view
+of the sublimest, but ruggedest, scenes we had yet beheld in Africa. The
+country was cut up in all directions by deep, wild, and narrow ravines
+trending in all directions, but generally toward the north-west, while
+on either side rose enormous square masses of naked rock (sandstone),
+sometimes towering, and rounded, sometimes pyramidal, sometimes in
+truncated cones, sometimes in circular ridges, with sharp, rugged, naked
+backs, with but little vegetation anywhere visible, except it obtained
+a precarious tenure in the fissured crown of some gigantic hill-top,
+whither some soil had fallen, or at the base of the reddish ochre scarps
+which everywhere lifted their fronts to our view.
+
+A long series of descents down rocky gullies, wherein we were environed
+by threatening masses of disintegrated rock, brought us to a dry, stony
+ravine, with mountain heights looming above us a thousand feet high.
+This ravine we followed, winding around in all directions, but which
+gradually widened, however, into a broad plain, with a western trend.
+The road, leaving this, struck across a low ridge to the north; and we
+were in view of deserted settlements where the villages were built on
+frowning castellated masses of rock. Near an upright mass of rock over
+seventy feet high, and about fifty yards in diameter, which dwarfed the
+gigantic sycamore close to it, we made our camp, after five hours and
+thirty minutes' continuous and rapid marching.
+
+The people were very hungry; they had eaten every scrap of meat, and
+every grain they possessed, twenty hours before, and there was no
+immediate prospect of food. I had but a pound and a half of flour
+left, and this would not have sufficed to begin to feed a force of over
+forty-five people; but I had something like thirty pounds of tea, and
+twenty pounds of sugar left, and I at once, as soon as we arrived at
+camp, ordered every kettle to be filled and placed on the fire, and then
+made tea for all; giving each man a quart of a hot, grateful beverage;
+well sweetened. Parties stole out also into the depths: of the jungle
+to search for wild fruit, and soon returned laden with baskets of the
+wood-peach and tamarind fruit, which though it did not satisfy, relieved
+them. That night, before going to sleep, the Wangwana set up a loud
+prayer to "Allah" to give them food.
+
+We rose betimes in the morning, determined to travel on until food
+could be procured, or we dropped down from sheer fatigue and weakness.
+Rhinoceros' tracks abounded, and buffalo seemed to be plentiful, but
+we never beheld a living thing. We crossed scores of short steeps,
+and descended as often into the depths of dry, stony gullies, and then
+finally entered a valley, bounded on one side by a triangular mountain
+with perpendicular sides, and on the other by a bold group, a triplet
+of hills. While marching down this valley--which soon changed its dry,
+bleached aspect to a vivid green--we saw a forest in the distance, and
+shortly found ourselves in corn-fields. Looking keenly around for a
+village, we descried it on the summit of the lofty triangular hill on
+our right. A loud exultant shout was raised at the discovery. The men
+threw down their packs, and began to clamour for food. Volunteers were
+asked to come forward to take cloth, and scale the heights to obtain
+it from the village, at any price. While three or four sallied off we
+rested on the ground, quite worn out. In about an hour the foraging
+party returned with the glorious tidings that food was plentiful;
+that the village we saw was called, "Welled Nzogera's"--the son of
+Nzogera--by which, of course, we knew that we were in Uvinza, Nzogera
+being the principal chief in Uvinza. We were further informed that
+Nzogera, the father, was at war with Lokanda-Mire, about some salt-pans
+in the valley of the Malagarazi, and that it would be difficult to go
+to Ujiji by the usual road, owing to this war; but, for a consideration,
+the son of Nzogera was willing to supply us with guides, who would take
+us safely, by a northern road, to Ujiji.
+
+Everything auguring well for our prospects, we encamped to enjoy the
+good cheer, for which our troubles and privations, during the transit of
+the Ukawendi forests and jungles, had well prepared us.
+
+I am now going to extract from my Diary of the march, as, without its
+aid, I deem it impossible to relate fully our various experiences, so as
+to show them properly as they occurred to us; and as these extracts
+were written and recorded at the close of each day, they possess more
+interest, in my opinion, than a cold relation of facts, now toned down
+in memory.
+
+October 31st. Tuesday.--Our road led E.N.E. for a considerable time
+after leaving the base of the triangular mountain whereon the son of
+Nzogera has established his stronghold, in order to avoid a deep and
+impassable portion of marsh, that stood between us and the direct route
+to the Malagarazi River. The valley sloped rapidly to this marsh, which
+received in its broad bosom the drainage of three extensive ranges. Soon
+we turned our faces northwest, and prepared to cross the marsh; and
+the guides informed us, as we halted on its eastern bank, of a terrible
+catastrophe which occurred a few yards above where we were preparing to
+cross. They told of an Arab and his caravan, consisting of thirty-five
+slaves, who had suddenly sunk out of sight, and who were never more
+heard of. This marsh, as it appeared to us, presented a breadth of some
+hundreds of yards, on which grew a close network of grass, with much
+decayed matter mixed up with it. In the centre of this, and underneath
+it, ran a broad, deep, and rapid stream. As the guides proceeded across,
+the men stole after them with cautious footsteps. As they arrived near
+the centre we began to see this unstable grassy bridge, so curiously
+provided by nature for us, move up and down in heavy languid
+undulations, like the swell of the sea after a storm. Where the two
+asses of the Expedition moved, the grassy waves rose a foot high; but
+suddenly one unfortunate animal plunged his feet through, and as he was
+unable to rise, he soon made a deep hollow, which was rapidly filling
+with water. With the aid of ten men, however, we were enabled to lift
+him bodily up and land him on a firmer part, and guiding them both
+across rapidly, the entire caravan crossed without accident.
+
+On arriving at the other side, we struck off to the north, and
+found ourselves in a delightful country, in every way suitable for
+agriculturists. Great rocks rose here and there, but in their fissures
+rose stately trees, under whose umbrage nestled the villages of the
+people. We found the various village elders greedy for cloth, but the
+presence of the younger son of Nzogera's men restrained their propensity
+for extortion. Goats and sheep were remarkably cheap, and in good
+condition; and, consequently, to celebrate our arrival near the
+Malagarazi, a flock of eight goats was slaughtered, and distributed to
+the men.
+
+November 1st.--Striking north-west, after leaving our camp, and
+descending the slope of a mountain, we soon beheld the anxiously
+looked-for Malagarazi, a narrow but deep stream, flowing through a
+valley pent in by lofty mountains. Fish-eating birds lined the trees on
+its banks; villages were thickly scattered about. Food was abundant and
+cheap.
+
+After travelling along the left bank of the river a few miles, we
+arrived at the settlements recognizing Kiala as their ruler. I
+had anticipated we should be able at once to cross the river, but
+difficulties arose. We were told to camp, before any negotiations could
+be entered into. When we demurred, we were informed we might cross the
+river if we wished, but we should not be assisted by any Mvinza.
+
+Being compelled to halt for this day, the tent was pitched in the middle
+of one of the villages, and the bales were stored in one of the huts,
+with four soldiers to guard them. After despatching an embassy to Kiala,
+eldest son of the great chief Nzogera, to request permission to cross
+the river as a peaceable caravan, Kiala sent word that the white man
+should cross his river after the payment of fifty-six cloths! Fifty-six
+cloths signified a bale nearly!
+
+Here was another opportunity for diplomacy. Bombay and Asmani were
+empowered to treat with Kiala about the honga, but it was not to exceed
+twenty-five doti. At 6 A.M., having spoken for seven hours, the two men
+returned, with the demand for thirteen doti for Nzogera, and ten doti
+for Kiala. Poor Bombay was hoarse, but Asmani still smiled; and I
+relented, congratulating myself that the preposterous demand, which was
+simply robbery, was no worse.
+
+Three hours later another demand was made. Kiala had been visited by a
+couple of chiefs from his father; and the chiefs being told that a white
+man was at the ferry, put in a claim for a couple of guns and a keg of
+gunpowder. But here my patience was exhausted, and I declared that
+they should have to take them by force, for I would never consent to be
+robbed and despoiled after any such fashion.
+
+Until 11 P.M., Bombay and Asmani were negotiating about this extra
+demand, arguing, quarreling, threatening, until Bombay declared they
+would talk him mad if it lasted much longer. I told Bombay to take two
+cloths, one for each chief, and, if they did not consider it enough,
+then I should fight. The present was taken, and the negotiations were
+terminated at midnight.
+
+November 2nd.--Ihata Island, one and a half hour west of Kiala's. We
+arrived before the Island of Ihata, on the left bank of the Malagarazi,
+at 5 p.m.; the morning having been wasted in puerile talk with the owner
+of the canoes at the ferry. The final demand for ferriage across was
+eight yards of cloth and four fundo* of sami-sami, or red beads; which
+was at once paid. Four men, with their loads, were permitted to cross in
+the small, unshapely, and cranky canoes. When the boatmen had discharged
+their canoes of their passengers and cargoes, they were ordered to halt
+on the other side, and, to my astonishment, another demand was made. The
+ferrymen had found that two fundo of these were of short measure, and
+two fundo more must be paid, otherwise the contract for ferrying us
+across would be considered null and void. So two fundo more were
+added, but not without demur and much "talk," which in these lands is
+necessary.
+
+** 4 fundo == 40 necklaces; 1 fundo being 10 necklaces.
+
+Three times the canoes went backwards and forwards, when, lo! another
+demand was made, with the usual clamour and fierce wordy dispute; this
+time for five khete # for the man who guided us to the ferry, a shukka
+of cloth for a babbler, who had attached himself to the old-womanish
+Jumah, who did nothing but babble and increase the clamor. These demands
+were also settled.
+
+# Necklaces.
+
+About sunset we endeavoured to cross the donkeys. "Simba," a fine wild
+Kinyamwezi donkey, went in first, with a rope attached to his neck.
+He had arrived at the middle of the stream when we saw him begin to
+struggle--a crocodile had seized him by the throat. The poor animal's
+struggles were terrific. Chowpereh was dragging on the rope with all his
+might, but to no use, for the donkey sank, and we saw no more of him.
+The depth of the river at this place was about fifteen feet. We had
+seen the light-brown heads, the glittering eyes, and the ridgy backs,
+hovering about the vicinity, but we had never thought that the reptiles
+would advance so near such an exciting scene as the vicinity of the
+ferry presented during the crossing. Saddened a little by this loss, we
+resumed our work, and by 7 P.M. we were all across, excepting Bombay and
+the only donkey now left, which was to be brought across in the morning,
+when the crocodiles should have deserted the river.
+
+November 3rd.--What contention have we not been a witness to these last
+three days! What anxiety have we not suffered ever since our arrival in
+Uvinza! The Wavinza are worse than the Wagogo, and their greed is
+more insatiable. We got the donkey across with the aid of a mganga, or
+medicine man, who spat some chewed leaves of a tree which grows close
+to the stream over him. He informed me he could cross the river at any
+time, day or night, after rubbing his body with these chewed leaves,
+which he believed to be a most potent medicine.
+
+About 10 A.M. appeared from the direction of Ujiji a caravan of eighty
+Waguhha, a tribe which occupies a tract of country on the south-western
+side of the Lake Tanganika. We asked the news, and were told a white man
+had just arrived at Ujiji from Manyuema. This news startled us all.
+
+"A white man?" we asked.
+
+"Yes, a white man," they replied.
+
+"How is he dressed?"
+
+"Like the master," they answered, referring to me.
+
+"Is he young, or old?"
+
+"He is old. He has white hair on his face, and is sick."
+
+"Where has he come from?"
+
+"From a very far country away beyond Uguhha, called Manyuema."
+
+"Indeed! and is he stopping at Ujiji now?"
+
+"Yes, we saw him about eight days ago."
+
+"Do you think he will stop there until we see him?"
+
+"Sigue" (don't know).
+
+"Was he ever at Ujiji before?"
+
+"Yes, he went away a long time ago."
+
+Hurrah! This is Livingstone! He must be Livingstone! He can be no other;
+but still;--he may be some one else--some one from the West Coast--or
+perhaps he is Baker! No; Baker has no white hair on his face. But we
+must now march quick, lest he hears we are coming, and runs away.
+
+I addressed my men, and asked them if they were willing to march to
+Ujiji without a single halt, and then promised them, if they acceded to
+my wishes, two doti each man. All answered in the affirmative, almost as
+much rejoiced as I was myself. But I was madly rejoiced; intensely eager
+to resolve the burning question, "Is it Dr. David Livingstone?" God
+grant me patience, but I do wish there was a railroad, or, at least,
+horses in this country.
+
+We set out at once from the banks of the Malagarazi, accompanied by two
+guides furnished us by Usenge, the old man of the ferry, who, now that
+we had crossed, showed himself more amiably disposed to us. We arrived
+at the village of Isinga, Sultan Katalambula, after a little over an
+hour's march across a saline plain, but which as we advanced into the
+interior became fertile and productive.
+
+November 4th.--Started early with great caution, maintaining deep
+silence. The guides were sent forward, one two hundred yards ahead of
+the other, that we might be warned in time. The first part of the march
+was through a thin jungle of dwarf trees, which got thinner and thinner
+until finally it vanished altogether, and we had entered Uhha--a plain
+country. Villages were visible by the score among the tall bleached
+stalks of dourra and maize. Sometimes three, sometimes five, ten, or
+twenty beehive-shaped huts formed a village. The Wahha were evidently
+living in perfect security, for not one village amongst them all was
+surrounded with the customary defence of an African village. A narrow
+dry ditch formed the only boundary between Uhha and Uvinza. On entering
+Uhha, all danger from Makumbi vanished.
+
+We halted at Kawanga, the chief of which lost no time in making us
+understand that he was the great Mutware of Kimenyi under the king, and
+that he was the tribute gatherer for his Kiha majesty. He declared that
+he was the only one in Kimenyi--an eastern division of Uhha--who could
+demand tribute; and that it would be very satisfactory to him, and a
+saving of trouble to ourselves, if we settled his claim of twelve doti
+of good cloths at once. We did not think it the best way of proceeding,
+knowing as we did the character of the native African; so we at once
+proceeded to diminish this demand; but, after six hours' hot argument,
+the Mutware only reduced it by two. This claim was then settled, upon
+the understanding that we should be allowed to travel through Uhha as
+far as the Rusugi River without being further mulcted.
+
+November 5th.--Leaving Kawanga early in the morning and continuing our
+march over the boundless plains, which were bleached white by the hot
+equatorial sun, we were marching westward full of pleasant anticipations
+that we were nearing the end of our troubles, joyfully congratulating
+ourselves that within five days we should see that which I had come so
+far from civilisation, and through so many difficulties, to see, and
+were about passing a cluster of villages, with all the confidence which
+men possess against whom no one had further claim or a word to say, when
+I noticed two men darting from a group of natives who were watching
+us, and running towards the head of the Expedition, with the object,
+evidently, of preventing further progress.
+
+The caravan stopped, and I walked forward to ascertain the cause from
+the two natives. I was greeted politely by the two Wahha with the
+usual "Yambos," and was then asked, "Why does the white man pass by the
+village of the King of Uhha without salutation and a gift? Does not
+the white man know there lives a king in Uhha, to whom the Wangwana and
+Arabs pay something for right of passage?"
+
+"Why, we paid last night to the chief of Kawanga, who informed us that
+he was the man deputed by the King of Uhha to collect the toll."
+
+"How much did you pay?"
+
+"Ten doti of good cloth."
+
+"Are you sure?"
+
+"Quite sure. If you ask him, he will tell you so."
+
+"Well," said one of the Wahha, a fine, handsome, intelligent-looking
+youth, "it is our duty to the king to halt you here until we find out
+the truth of this. Will you walk to our village, and rest yourselves
+under the shade of our trees until we can send messengers to Kawanga?"
+
+"No; the sun is but an hour high, and we have far to travel; but, in
+order to show you we do not seek to pass through your country without
+doing that which is right, we will rest where we now stand, and we will
+send with your messengers two of our soldiers, who will show you the man
+to whom we paid the cloth."
+
+The messengers departed; but, in the meantime, the handsome youth, who
+turned out to be the nephew of the King, whispered some order to a lad,
+who immediately hastened away, with the speed of an antelope, to the
+cluster of villages which we had just passed. The result of this errand,
+as we saw in a short time, was the approach of a body of warriors, about
+fifty in number, headed by a tall, fine-looking man, who was dressed in
+a crimson robe called Joho, two ends of which were tied in a knot over
+the left shoulder; a new piece of American sheeting was folded like a
+turban around his head, and a large curved piece of polished ivory was
+suspended to his neck. He and his people were all armed with spears, and
+bows and arrows, and their advance was marked with a deliberation that
+showed they felt confidence in any issue that might transpire.
+
+We were halted on the eastern side of the Pombwe stream, near the
+village of Lukomo, in Kimenyi, Uhha. The gorgeously-dressed chief was
+a remarkable man in appearance. His face was oval in form, high
+cheek-bones, eyes deeply sunk, a prominent and bold forehead, a fine
+nose, and a well-cut mouth; he was tall in figure, and perfectly
+symmetrical.
+
+When near to us, he hailed me with the words,
+
+"Yambo, bana?--How do you do, master?" in quite a cordial tone.
+
+I replied cordially also, "Yambo, mutware?--How do you do, chief?"
+
+We, myself and men, interchanged "Yambos" with his warriors; and there
+was nothing in our first introduction to indicate that the meeting was
+of a hostile character.
+
+The chief seated himself, his haunches resting on his heels, laying down
+his bow and arrows by his side; his men did likewise.
+
+I seated myself on a bale, and each of my men sat down on their loads,
+forming quite a semicircle. The Wahha slightly outnumbered my party;
+but, while they were only armed with bows and arrows, spears, and
+knob-sticks, we were armed with rifles, muskets, revolvers, pistols, and
+hatchets.
+
+All were seated, and deep silence was maintained by the assembly. The
+great plains around us were as still in this bright noon as if they were
+deserted of all living creatures. Then the chief spoke:
+
+"I am Mionvu, the great Mutware of Kimenyi, and am next to the King, who
+lives yonder," pointing to a large village near some naked hills about
+ten miles to the north. "I have come to talk with the white man. It has
+always been the custom of the Arabs and the Wangwana to make a present
+to the King when they pass through his country. Does not the white man
+mean to pay the King's dues? Why does the white man halt in the road?
+Why will he not enter the village of Lukomo, where there is food and
+shade--where we can discuss this thing quietly? Does the white man mean
+to fight? I know well he is stronger than we are. His men have guns, and
+the Wahha have but bows and arrows, and spears; but Uhha is large, and
+our villages are many. Let him look about him everywhere--all is Uhha,
+and our country extends much further than he can see or walk in a day.
+The King of Uhha is strong; yet he wishes friendship only with the white
+man. Will the white man have war or peace?"
+
+A deep murmur of assent followed this speech of Mionvu from his people,
+and disapprobation, blended with a certain uneasiness; from my men. When
+about replying, the words of General Sherman, which I heard him utter to
+the chiefs of the Arapahoes and Cheyennes at North Platte, in 1867,
+came to my mind; and something of their spirit I embodied in my reply to
+Mionvu, Mutware of Kimenyi.
+
+"Mionvu, the great Mutware, asks me if I have come for war. When did
+Mionvu ever hear of white men warring against black men? Mionvu must
+understand that the white men are different from the black. White men do
+not leave their country to fight the black people, neither do they
+come here to buy ivory or slaves. They come to make friends with black
+people; they come to search for rivers; and lakes, and mountains; they
+come to discover what countries, what peoples, what rivers, what lakes,
+what forests, what plains, what mountains and hills are in your country;
+to know the different animals that are in the land of the black people,
+that, when they go back, they may tell the white kings, and men, and
+children, what they have seen and heard in the land so far from them.
+The white people are different from the Arabs and Wangwana; the white
+people know everything, and are very strong. When they fight, the Arabs
+and the Wangwana run away. We have great guns which thunder, and when
+they shoot the earth trembles; we have guns which carry bullets further
+than you can see: even with these little things" (pointing to my
+revolvers) "I could kill ten men quicker than you could count. We are
+stronger than the Wahha. Mionvu has spoken the truth, yet we do not wish
+to fight. I could kill Mionvu now, yet I talk to him as to a friend. I
+wish to be a friend to Mionvu, and to all black people. Will Mionvu say
+what I can do for him?"
+
+As these words were translated to him--imperfectly, I suppose, but
+still, intelligibly--the face of the Wahha showed how well they
+appreciated them. Once or twice I thought I detected something like
+fear, but my assertions that I desired peace and friendship with them
+soon obliterated all such feelings.
+
+Mionvu replied:
+
+"The white man tells me he is friendly. Why does he not come to our
+village? Why does he stop on the road? The sun is hot. Mionvu will not
+speak here any more. If the white man is a friend he will come to the
+village."
+
+"We must stop now. It is noon. You have broken our march. We will go and
+camp in your village," I said, at the same time rising and pointing to
+the men to take up their loads.
+
+We were compelled to camp; there was no help for it; the messengers had
+not returned from Kawanga. Having arrived in his village, Mionvu had
+cast himself at full length under the scanty shade afforded by a few
+trees within the boma. About 2 P.M. the messengers returned, saying it
+was true the chief of Kawanga had taken ten cloths; not, however for the
+King of Uhha, but for himself!
+
+Mionvu, who evidently was keen-witted, and knew perfectly what he was
+about, now roused himself, and began to make miniature faggots of thin
+canes, ten in each faggot, and shortly he presented ten of these small
+bundles, which together contained one hundred, to me, saying each stick
+represented a cloth, and the amount of the "honga" required by the King
+of Uhha was ONE HUNDRED CLOTHS!--nearly two bales!
+
+Recovering from our astonishment, which was almost indescribable, we
+offered TEN.
+
+"Ten! to the King of Uhha! Impossible. You do not stir from Lukomo until
+you pay us one hundred!" exclaimed Mionvu, in a significant manner.
+
+I returned no answer, but went to my hut, which Mionvu had cleared for
+my use, and Bombay, Asmani, Mabruki, and Chowpereh were invited--to come
+to me for consultation. Upon my asking them if we could not fight our
+way through Uhha, they became terror-stricken, and Bombay, in imploring
+accents, asked me to think well what I was about to do, because it was
+useless to enter on a war with the Wahha. "Uhha is all a plain country;
+we cannot hide anywhere. Every village will rise all about us, and how
+can forty-five men fight thousands of people? They would kill us all in
+a few minutes, and how would you ever reach Ujiji if you died? Think of
+it, my dear master, and do not throw your life away for a few rags of
+cloth."
+
+"Well, but, Bombay, this is robbery. Shall we submit to be robbed? Shall
+we give this fellow everything he asks? He might as well ask me for all
+the cloth, and all my guns, without letting him see that we can fight. I
+can kill Mionvu and his principal men myself, and you can slay all those
+howlers out there without much trouble. If Mionvu and his principal were
+dead we should not be troubled much, and we could strike south to the
+Mala-garazi, and go west to Ujiji."
+
+ "No, no, dear master, don't think of it for a moment.  If we went
+ neat the Malagarazi we should come across Lokanda-Mira."
+
+ "Well, then, we will go north."
+
+ "Up that way Uhha extends far; and beyond Uhha are the Watuta."
+
+ "Well, then, say what we shall do.  We must do something; but we
+ must not be robbed."
+
+ "Pay Mionvu what he asks, and let us go away from here.  This is
+ the last place we shall have to pay.  And in four days we shall be
+ in Ujiji."
+
+ "Did Mionvu tell you that this is the last time we would have to
+ pay?"
+
+ "He did, indeed."
+
+ "What do you say, Asmani?  Shall we fight or pay?"  Asmani's
+ face wore the usual smile, but he replied,
+
+ "I am afraid we must pay.  This is positively the last time."
+
+ "And you, Chowpereh?"
+
+ "Pay, bana; it is better to get along quietly in this country.
+ If we were strong enough they would pay us.  Ah, if we had only
+ two hundred guns, how these Wahha would run!"
+
+ "What do you say, Mabruki?"
+
+ "Ah, master, dear master; it is very hard, and these people are
+ great robbers.  I would like to chop their heads off, all; so I
+ would.  But you had better pay.  This is the last time; and what
+ are one hundred cloths to you?"
+
+ "Well, then, Bombay and Asmani, go to Mionvu, and offer him twenty.
+ If he will not take twenty, give him thirty.  If he refuses thirty,
+ give him forty; then go up to eighty, slowly.  Make plenty of talk;
+ not one doti more.  I swear to you I will shoot Mionvu if he demands
+ more than eighty.  Go, and remember to be wise."
+
+ I will cut the matter short.  At 9 P.M. sixty-four doti were
+ handed over to Mionvu, for the King of Uhha; six doti for
+ himself, and five doti for his sub; altogether seventy-five doti--
+ a bale and a quarter!  No sooner had we paid than they began to
+ fight amongst themselves over the booty, and I was in hopes that
+ the factions would proceed to battle, that I might have good excuse
+ for leaving them, and plunging south to the jungle that I believed
+ existed there, by which means, under its friendly cover, we might
+ strike west.  But no, it was only a verbose war, which portended
+ nothing more than a noisy clamor.
+
+ November 6th.--At dawn we were on the road, very silent and sad.
+ Our stock of cloth was much diminished; we had nine bales left,
+ sufficient to have taken us to the Atlantic Ocean--aided by the
+ beads, which were yet untouched--if we practised economy.  If I
+ met many more like Mionvu I had not enough to take me to Ujiji,
+ and, though we were said to be so near, Livingstone seemed to me
+ to be just as far as ever.
+
+ We crossed the Pombwe, and then struck across a slowly-undulating
+ plain rising gradually to mountains on our right, and on our left
+ sinking towards the valley of the Malagarazi, which river was
+ about twenty miles away.  Villages rose to our view everywhere.
+ Food was cheap, milk was plentiful, and the butter good.
+
+ After a four hours' march, we crossed the Kanengi River, and
+ entered the boma of Kahirigi, inhabited by several Watusi and Wahha.
+ Here, we were told, lived the King of Uhha's brother.  This
+ announcement was anything but welcome, and I began to suspect I had
+ fallen into another hornets' nest.  We had not rested two hours
+ before two Wangwana entered my tent, who were slaves of Thani bin
+ Abdullah, our dandified friend of Unyanyembe.  These men came, on
+ the part of the king's brother, to claim the HONGA!  The king's
+ brother, demanded thirty doti!  Half a bale!  Merciful Providence!
+ What shall I do?
+
+ We had been told by Mionvu that the honga of Uhha was settled--and
+ now here is another demand from the King's brother!  It is the
+ second time the lie has been told, and we have twice been deceived.
+ We shall be deceived no more.
+
+ These two men informed us there were five more chiefs, living but
+ two hours from each other, who would exact tribute, or black-mail,
+ like those we had seen.  Knowing this much, I felt a certain calm.
+ It was far better to know the worst at once.  Five more chiefs with
+ their demands would assuredly ruin us.  In view of which, what is
+ to be done?  How am I to reach Livingstone, without being beggared?
+
+ Dismissing the men, I called Bombay, and told him to assist Asmani
+ in settling the honga--"as cheaply as possible."  I then lit my
+ pipe, put on the cap of consideration, and began to think.  Within
+ half an hour, I had made a plan, which was to be attempted to be
+ put in execution that very night.
+
+ I summoned the two slaves of Thani bin Abdullah, after the honga
+ had been settled to everybody's satisfaction--though the profoundest
+ casuistries and diplomatic arguments failed to reduce it lower than
+ twenty-six doti--and began asking them about the possibility of
+ evading the tribute-taking Wahha ahead.
+
+ This rather astonished them at first, and they declared it to be
+ impossible; but, finally, after being pressed, they replied, that
+ one of their number should guide us at midnight, or a little after,
+ into the jungle which grew on the frontiers of Uhha and Uvinza.  By
+ keeping a direct west course through this jungle until we came to
+ Ukaranga we might be enabled--we were told--to travel through Uhha
+ without further trouble.  If I were willing to pay the guide
+ twelve doti, and if I were able to impose silence on my people
+ while passing through the sleeping village, the guide was positive
+ I could reach Ujiji without paying another doti.  It is needless to
+ add, that I accepted the proffered assistance at such a price with
+ joy.
+
+ But there was much to be done.  Provisions were to be purchased,
+ sufficient to last four days, for the tramp through the jungle,
+ and men were at once sent with cloth to purchase grain at any price.
+ Fortune favoured us, for before 8 P.M. we had enough for six days.
+
+ November 7th.--I did not go to sleep at all last night, but a
+ little after midnight, as the moon was beginning to show itself,
+ by gangs of four, the men stole quietly out of the village; and
+ by 3 A.M. the entire Expedition was outside the boma, and not the
+ slightest alarm had been made.  After a signal to the new guide,
+ the Expedition began to move in a southern direction along the
+ right bank of the Kanengi River.  After an hour's march in this
+ direction, we struck west, across the grassy plain, and maintained
+ it, despite the obstacles we encountered, which were sore enough to
+ naked men.  The bright moon lighted our path: dark clouds now and
+ then cast immense long shadows over the deserted and silent plains,
+ and the moonbeans were almost obscured, and at such times our
+ position seemed awful--
+
+ Till the moon.
+ Rising in clouded majesty, at length,
+ Apparent queen, unveiled her peerless light,
+ And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw.
+
+ Bravely toiled the men, without murmur, though their legs were
+ bleeding from the cruel grass.  "Ambrosial morn" at last appeared,
+ with all its beautiful and lovely features.  Heaven was born anew
+ to us, with comforting omens and cheery promise.  The men, though
+ fatigued at the unusual travel, sped forward with quicker, pace as
+ daylight broke, until, at 8 A.M., we sighted the swift Rusugi River,
+ when a halt was ordered in a clump of jungle near it, for breakfast
+ and rest.  Both banks of the river were alive with buffalo, eland,
+ and antelope, but, though the sight was very tempting, we did not
+ fire, because we dared not.  The report of a gun would have alarmed
+ the whole country.  I preferred my coffee, and the contentment which
+ my mind experienced at our success.
+
+ An hour after we had rested, some natives, carrying salt from the
+ Malagarazi, were seen coming up the right bank of the river.  When
+ abreast of our hiding-place, they detected us, and dropping their
+ salt-bags, they took to their heels at once, shouting out as they
+ ran, to alarm some villages that appeared about four miles north of
+ us.  The men were immediately ordered to take up their loads, and
+ in a few minutes we had crossed the Rusugi, and were making direct
+ for a bamboo jungle that appeared in our front.  On, on, we kept
+ steadily until, at 1 P.M., we sighted the little lake of Musunya,
+ as wearied as possible with our nine hours march.
+
+ Lake Musunya is one of the many circular basins found in this part
+ of Uhha.  There was quite a group of them.  The more correct term
+ of these lakes would be immense pools.  In the Masika season, Lake
+ Musunya must extend to three or four miles in length by two in breadth.
+ It swarms with hippopotami, and its shores abound with noble game.
+
+ We were very quiet, as may be imagined, in our bivouac; neither
+ tent nor hut was raised, nor was fire kindled, so that, in case of
+ pursuit, we could move off without delay.  I kept my Winchester
+ rifle (the gift of my friend Mr. Morris, and a rare gift it was
+ for such a crisis) with its magazine full, and two hundred
+ cartridges in a bag slung over my shoulders.  Each soldier's gun
+ was also ready and loaded, and we retired to sleep our fatigues
+ off with a feeling of perfect security.
+
+ November 8th.--Long before dawn appeared, we were on the march, and,
+ as daylight broke, we emerged from the bamboo jungle, and struck
+ across the naked plain of Uhha, once more passing several large
+ pools by the way--far-embracing prospects of undulating country,
+ with here and there a characteristic clump of trees relieving the
+ general nudity of the whole.  Hour after hour we toiled on,
+ across the rolling land waves, the sun shining with all its wonted
+ African fervor, but with its heat slightly tempered by the
+ welcome breezes, which came laden with the fragrance of young
+ grass, and perfume of strange flowers of various hues, that flecked
+ the otherwise pale-green sheet which extended so far around us.
+
+ We arrived at the Rugufu River--not the Ukawendi Rugufu, but the
+ northern stream of that name, a tributary of the Malagarazi.  It
+ was a broad shallow stream, and sluggish, with an almost imperceptible
+ flow south-west.  While we halted in the deep shade afforded by a
+ dense clump of jungle, close to the right bank, resting awhile before
+ continuing our journey.  I distinctly heard a sound as of distant
+ thunder in the west.  Upon asking if it were thunder, I was told it
+ was Kabogo.
+
+ "Kabogo? what is that?"
+
+ "It is a great mountain on the other side of the Tanganika, full
+ of deep holes, into which the water rolls; and when there is wind
+ on the Tanganika, there is a sound like mvuha (thunder).  Many
+ boats have been lost there, and it is a custom with Arabs and
+ natives to throw cloth--Merikani and Kaniki--and especially white
+ (Merikani) beads, to appease the mulungu (god) of the lake.
+ Those who throw beads generally get past without trouble,
+ but those who do not throw beads into the lake get lost, and are
+ drowned.  Oh, it is a dreadful place!"  This story was told me by
+ the ever-smiling guide Asmani, and was corroborated by other
+ former mariners of the lake whom I had with me.
+
+ At the least, this place where we halted for dinner, on the banks
+ of the Rugufu River, is eighteen and a half hours, or forty-six
+ miles, from Ujiji; and, as Kabogo is said to be near Uguhha, it
+ must be over sixty miles from Ujiji; therefore the sound of the
+ thundering surf, which is said to roll into the caves of Kabogo,
+ was heard by us at a distance of over one hundred miles away from
+ them.
+
+ Continuing our journey for three hours longer, through thin
+ forests, over extensive beds of primitive rock, among fields of
+ large boulders thickly strewn about, passing by numerous herds
+ of buffalo, giraffe, and zebra, over a quaking quagmire which
+ resembled peat, we arrived at the small stream of Sunuzzi, to a
+ camping place only a mile removed from a large settlement of Wahha.
+ But we were buried in the depths of a great forest--no road was in
+ the vicinity, no noise was made, deep silence was preserved; nor
+ were fires lit.  We might therefore rest tranquilly secure, certain
+ that we should not be disturbed.  To-morrow morning the kirangozi
+ has promised we shall be out of Uhha, and if we travel on to
+ Niamtaga, in Ukaranga, the same day, the next day would see us
+ in Ujiji.
+
+ Patience, my soul!  A few hours more, then the end of all this
+ will be known!  I shall be face to face with that "white man with
+ the white hairs on his face, whoever he is!"
+
+ November 9th.--Two hours before dawn we left our camp on the Sunuzzi
+ River, and struck through the forest in a north-by-west direction,
+ having muzzled our goats previously, lest, by their bleating, they
+ might betray us.  This was a mistake which might have ended
+ tragically, for just as the eastern sky began to assume a pale
+ greyish tint, we emerged from the jungle on the high road.  The
+ guide thought we had passed Uhha, and set up a shout which was
+ echoed by every member of the caravan, and marched onward with
+ new vigor and increased energy, when plump we came to the outskirts
+ of a village, the inhabitants of which were beginning to stir.
+ Silence was called for at once, and the Expedition halted
+ immediately.  I walked forward to the front to advise with the guide.
+ He did not know what to do.  There was no time to consider, so I
+ ordered the goats to be slaughtered and left on the road, and the
+ guide to push on boldly through the village.  The chickens also had
+ their throats cut; after which the Expedition resumed the march
+ quickly and silently, led by the guide, who had orders to plunge
+ into the jungle south of the road.  I stayed until the last man
+ had disappeared; then, after preparing my Winchester, brought up
+ the rear, followed by my gunbearers with their stock of ammunition.
+ As we were about disappearing beyond the last hut, a man darted out
+ of his hut, and uttered an exclamation of alarm, and loud voices
+ were heard as if in dispute.  But in a short time we were in the
+ depths of the jungle, hurrying away from the road in a southern
+ direction, and edging slightly westward.  Once I thought we were
+ pursued, and I halted behind a tree to check our foes if they
+ persisted in following us; but a few minutes proved to me that we
+ were not pursued, After half-an-hour's march we again turned our
+ faces westward.  It was broad daylight now, and our eyes were
+ delighted with most picturesque and sequestered little valleys,
+ where wild fruit-trees grew, and rare flowers blossomed, and
+ tiny brooks tumbled over polished pebbles--where all was bright
+ and beautiful--until, finally, wading through one pretty pure
+ streamlet, whose soft murmurs we took for a gentle welcome, we
+ passed the boundary of wicked Uhha, and had entered Ukaranga!--
+ an event that was hailed with extravagant shouts of joy.
+
+ Presently we found the smooth road, and we trod gaily with
+ elastic steps, with limbs quickened for the march which we all
+ knew to be drawing near its end.  What cared we now for the
+ difficulties we had encountered--for the rough and cruel forests,
+ for the thorny thickets and hurtful grass, for the jangle of all
+ savagedom, of which we had been the joyless audience!  To-morrow!
+ Ay, the great day draws nigh, and we may well laugh and sing while
+ in this triumphant mood.  We have been sorely tried; we have been
+ angry with each other when vexed by troubles, but we forget all
+ these now, and there is no face but is radiant with the happiness
+ we have all deserved.
+
+ We made a short halt at noon, for rest and refreshment.  I was
+ shown the hills from which the Tanganika could be seen, which
+ bounded the valley of the Liuche on the east.  I could not contain
+ myself at the sight of them.  Even with this short halt I was
+ restless and unsatisfied.  We resumed the march again.  I spurred
+ my men forward with the promise that to-morrow should see their reward.
+
+ We were in sight of the villages of the Wakaranga; the people
+ caught sight of us, and manifested considerable excitement.  I sent
+ men ahead to reassure them, and they came forward to greet us.  This
+ was so new and welcome to us, so different from the turbulent Wavinza
+ and the black-mailers of Uhha, that we were melted.  But we had
+ no time to loiter by the way to indulge our joy.  I was impelled onward
+ by my almost uncontrollable feelings.  I wished to resolve my doubts
+ and fears.  Was HE still there?  Had HE heard of my coming?  Would HE
+ fly?
+
+ How beautiful Ukaranga appears!  The green hills are crowned by
+ clusters of straw-thatched cones.  The hills rise and fall; here
+ denuded and cultivated, there in pasturage, here timbered, yonder
+ swarming with huts.  The country has somewhat the aspect of Maryland.
+
+ We cross the Mkuti, a glorious little river!  We ascend the opposite
+ bank, and stride through the forest like men who have done a deed
+ of which they may be proud.  We have already travelled nine hours,
+ and the sun is sinking rapidly towards the west; yet, apparently,
+ we are not fatigued.
+
+ We reach the outskirts of Niamtaga, and we hear drums beat.  The
+ people are flying into the woods; they desert their villages, for
+ they take us to be Ruga-Ruga--the forest thieves of Mirambo, who,
+ after conquering the Arabs of Unyanyembe, are coming to fight the
+ Arabs of Ujiji.  Even the King flies from his village, and every
+ man, woman, and child, terror-stricken, follows him.  We enter
+ into it and quietly take possession.  Finally, the word is bruited
+ about that we are Wangwana, from Unyanyembe.
+
+ "Well, then, is Mirambo dead?" they ask.
+
+ "No," we answer.
+
+ "Well, how did you come to Ukaranga?"
+
+ "By way of Ukonongo, Ukawendi, and Uhha."
+
+ "Oh--hi-le!" Then they laugh heartily at their fright, and begin
+ to make excuses.  The King is introduced to me, and he says he had
+ only gone to the woods in order to attack us again--he meant to have
+ come back and killed us all, if we had been Ruga-Ruga.  But then we
+ know the poor King was terribly frightened, and would never have
+ dared to return, had we been RugaRuga--not he.  We are not, however,
+ in a mood to quarrel with him about an idiomatic phrase peculiar
+ to him, but rather take him by the hand and shake it well, and say
+ we are so very glad to see him.  And he shares in our pleasure,
+ and immediately three of the fattest sheep, pots of beer, flour,
+ and honey are brought to us as a gift, and I make him happier still
+ with two of the finest cloths I have in my bales; and thus a
+ friendly pact is entered into between us.
+
+ While I write my Diary of this day's proceedings, I tell my
+ servant to lay out my new flannel suit, to oil my boots, to
+ chalk my helmet, and fold a new puggaree around it, that I may
+ make as presentable an appearance as possible before the white
+ man with the grey beard, and before the Arabs of Ujiji; for the
+ clothes I have worn through jungle and forest are in tatters.
+ Good-night; only let one day come again, and we shall see what
+ we shall see.
+
+ November 10th. Friday.--The 236th day from Bagamoyo on the Sea,
+ and the 51st day from Unyanyembe.  General direction to Ujiji,
+ west-by-south.  Time of march, six hours.
+
+ It is a happy, glorious morning.  The air is fresh and cool.
+ The sky lovingly smiles on the earth and her children.  The deep
+ woods are crowned in bright vernal leafage; the water of the Mkuti,
+ rushing under the emerald shade afforded by the bearded banks,
+ seems to challenge us for the race to Ujiji, with its continuous
+ brawl.
+
+ We are all outside the village cane fence, every man of us looking
+ as spruce, as neat, and happy as when we embarked on the dhows at
+ Zanzibar, which seems to us to have been ages ago--we have witnessed
+ and experienced so much.
+
+ "Forward!"
+
+ "Ay Wallah, ay Wallah, bana yango!" and the lighthearted braves
+ stride away at a rate which must soon bring us within view of
+ Ujiji.  We ascend a hill overgrown with bamboo, descend into a
+ ravine through which dashes an impetuous little torrent, ascend
+ another short hill, then, along a smooth footpath running across
+ the slope of a long ridge, we push on as only eager, lighthearted
+ men can do.
+
+ In two hours I am warned to prepare for a view of the Tanganika,
+ for, from the top of a steep mountain the kirangozi says I can see
+ it.  I almost vent the feeling of my heart in cries.  But wait, we
+ must behold it first.  And we press forward and up the hill
+ breathlessly, lest the grand scene hasten away.  We are at last on
+ the summit.  Ah! not yet can it be seen.  A little further on--just
+ yonder, oh! there it is--a silvery gleam.  I merely catch sight of
+ it between the trees, and--but here it is at last!  True--THE TANGANIKA!
+ and there are the blue-black mountains of Ugoma and Ukaramba.  An
+ immense broad sheet, a burnished bed of silver--lucid canopy of
+ blue above--lofty mountains are its valances, palm forests form its
+ fringes!  The Tanganika!--Hurrah! and the men respond to the
+ exultant cry of the Anglo-Saxon with the lungs of Stentors, and the
+ great forests and the hills seem to share in our triumph.
+
+ "Was this the place where Burton and Speke stood, Bombay, when they
+ saw the lake first?"
+
+ "I don't remember, master; it was somewhere about here, I think."
+
+ "Poor fellows!  The one was half-paralyzed, the other half-blind,"
+ said Sir Roderick Murchison, when he described Burton and Spoke's
+ arrival in view of the Tanganika.
+
+ And I?  Well, I am so happy that, were I quite paralyzed and
+ blinded, I think that at this supreme moment I could take up my
+ bed and walk, and all blindness would cease at once.  Fortunately,
+ however, I am quite well; I have not suffered a day's sickness
+ since the day I left Unyanyembe.  How much would Shaw be willing
+ to give to be in my place now?  Who is happiest--he revelling in
+ the luxuries of Unyanyembe, or I, standing on the summit of this
+ mountain, looking down with glad eyes and proud heart on the
+ Tanganika?
+
+ We are descending the western slope of the mountain, with the
+ valley of the Liuche before us.  Something like an hour before
+ noon we have gained the thick matete brake, which grows on both
+ banks of the river; we wade through the clear stream, arrive on
+ the other side, emerge out of the brake, and the gardens of the
+ Wajiji are around us--a perfect marvel of vegetable wealth.
+ Details escape my hasty and partial observation.  I am almost
+ overpowered with my own emotions.  I notice the graceful palms,
+ neat plots, green with vegetable plants, and small villages
+ surrounded with frail fences of the matete-cane.
+
+ We push on rapidly, lest the news of our coming might reach the
+ people of Ujiji before we come in sight, and are ready for them.
+ We halt at a little brook, then ascend the long slope of a naked
+ ridge, the very last of the myriads we have crossed.  This alone
+ prevents us from seeing the lake in all its vastness.  We arrive
+ at the summit, travel across and arrive at its western rim, and--
+ pause, reader--the port of Ujiji is below us, embowered in the
+ palms, only five hundred yards from us!
+
+ At this grand moment we do not think of the hundreds of miles we
+ have marched, or of the hundreds of hills that we have ascended
+ and descended, or of the many forests we have traversed, or of the
+ jungles and thickets that annoyed us, or of the fervid salt plains
+ that blistered our feet, or of the hot suns that scorched us, nor
+ of the dangers and difficulties, now happily surmounted!
+
+ At last the sublime hour has arrived;--our dreams, our hopes, and
+ anticipations are now about to be realised!  Our hearts and our
+ feelings are with our eyes, as we peer into the palms and try to
+ make out in which hut or house lives the "white man with the grey
+ beard" we heard about when we were at the Malagarazi.
+
+ "Unfurl the flags, and load your guns!"
+
+ "We will, master, we will, master!" respond the men eagerly.
+
+ "One, two, three,--fire!"
+
+ A volley from nearly fifty guns roars like a salute from a
+ battery of artillery: we shall note its effect presently on
+ the peaceful-looking village below.
+
+ "Now, kirangozi, hold the white man's flag up high, and let the
+ Zanzibar flag bring up the rear.  And you men keep close together,
+ and keep firing until we halt in the market-place, or before the
+ white man's house.  You have said to me often that you could smell
+ the fish of the Tanganika--I can smell the fish of the Tanganika
+ now.  There are fish, and beer, and a long rest waiting for you.
+ MARCH!"
+
+ Before we had gone a hundred yards our repeated volleys had the
+ effect desired.  We had awakened Ujiji to the knowledge that a
+ caravan was coming, and the people were witnessed rushing up in
+ hundreds to meet us.  The mere sight of the flags informed every
+ one immediately that we were a caravan, but the American flag
+ borne aloft by gigantic Asmani, whose face was one vast smile on
+ this day, rather staggered them at first.  However, many of the
+ people who now approached us, remembered the flag.  They had seen
+ it float above the American Consulate, and from the mast-head of
+ many a ship in the harbor of Zanzibar, and they were soon heard
+ welcoming the beautiful flag with cries of "Bindera Kisungu!"--a
+ white man's flag!  "Bindera Merikani!"--the American flag!
+
+ Then we were surrounded by them: by Wajiji, Wanyamwezi, Wangwana,
+ Warundi, Waguhha, Wamanyuema, and Arabs, and were almost
+ deafened with the shouts of "Yambo, yambo, bana!  Yambo, bana!
+ Yambo, bana!" To all and each of my men the welcome was given.
+
+ We were now about three hundred yards from the village of Ujiji,
+ and the crowds are dense about me.  Suddenly I hear a voice on
+ my right say,
+
+ "Good morning, sir!"
+
+ Startled at hearing this greeting in the midst of such a crowd of
+ black people, I turn sharply around in search of the man, and see
+ him at my side, with the blackest of faces, but animated and
+ joyous--a man dressed in a long white shirt, with a turban of
+ American sheeting around his woolly head, and I ask:
+
+ "Who the mischief are you?"
+
+ "I am Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone," said be, smiling,
+ and showing a gleaming row of teeth.
+
+ "What!  Is Dr. Livingstone here?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "In this village?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "Are you sure?"
+
+ "Sure, sure, sir.  Why, I leave him just now."
+
+ "Good morning, sir," said another voice.
+
+ "Hallo," said I, "is this another one?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "Well, what is your name?"
+
+ "My name is Chumah, sir."
+
+ "What! are you Chumah, the friend of Wekotani?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "And is the-Doctor well?"
+
+ "Not very well, sir."
+
+ "Where has he been so long?"
+
+ "In Manyuema."
+
+ "Now, you Susi, run, and tell the Doctor I am coming."
+
+ "Yes, sir," and off he darted like a madman.
+
+ But by this time we were within two hundred yards of the village,
+ and the multitude was getting denser, and almost preventing our
+ march.  Flags and streamers were out; Arabs and Wangwana were
+ pushing their way through the natives in order to greet us, for
+ according to their account, we belonged to them.  But the great
+ wonder of all was, "How did you come from Unyanyembe?"
+
+ Soon Susi came running back, and asked me my name; he had told
+ the Doctor I was coming, but the Doctor was too surprised to believe
+ him, and when the Doctor asked him my name, Susi was rather staggered.
+
+ But, during Susi's absence, the news had been conveyed to the
+ Doctor that it was surely a white man that was coming, whose guns
+ were firing, and whose flag could be seen; and the great Arab
+ magnates of Ujiji--Mohammed bin Sali, Sayd bin Majid, Abid bin
+ Suliman, Mohammed bin Gharib, and others--had gathered together
+ before the Doctor's house, and the Doctor had come out from his
+ veranda to discuss the matter and await my arrival.
+
+ In the meantime, the head of the Expedition had halted, and the
+ kirangozi was out of the ranks, holding his flag aloft, and Selim
+ said to me, "I see the Doctor, sir.  Oh, what an old man!  He has
+ got a white beard."  And I--what would I not have given for a bit
+ of friendly wilderness, where, unseen, I might vent my joy in some
+ mad freak, such as idiotically biting my hand; turning a somersault,
+ or slashing at trees, in order to allay those exciting feelings
+ that were well-nigh uncontrollable.  My heart beats fast, but I must
+ not let my face betray my emotions, lest it shall detract from the
+ dignity of a white man appearing under such extraordinary circumstances.
+
+ So I did that which I thought was most dignified.  I pushed back
+ the crowds, and, passing from the rear, walked down a living avenue
+ of people, until I came in front of the semicircle of Arabs, before
+ which stood the "white man with the grey beard."
+
+ As I advanced slowly towards him I noticed he was pale, that he
+ looked wearied and wan, that he had grey whiskers and moustache,
+ that he wore a bluish cloth cap with a faded gold band on a red
+ ground round it, and that he had on a red-sleeved waistcoat, and a
+ pair of grey tweed trousers.
+
+ I would have run to him, only I was a coward in the presence of
+ such a mob--would have embraced him, but that I did not know how
+ he would receive me; so I did what moral cowardice and false pride
+ suggested was the best thing--walked deliberately to him, took off
+ my hat, and said:
+
+ "DR. LIVINGSTONE, I PRESUME?"
+
+ "Yes," said he, with a kind, cordial smile, lifting his cap slightly.
+
+ I replaced my hat on my head, and he replaced his cap, and we
+ both grasped hands.  I then said aloud:
+
+ "I thank God, Doctor, I have been permitted to see you."
+
+ He answered, "I feel thankful that I am here to welcome you."
+
+ I turned to the Arabs, took off my hat to them in response to the
+ saluting chorus of "Yambos" I received, and the Doctor introduced
+ them to me by name.  Then, oblivious of the crowds, oblivious of
+ the men who shared with me my dangers, we--Livingstone and I--
+ turned our faces towards his house.  He pointed to the veranda,
+ or rather, mud platform, under the broad overhanging eaves; he
+ pointed to his own particular seat, which I saw his age and
+ experience in Africa had suggested, namely, a straw mat, with a
+ goatskin over it, and another skin nailed against the wall to
+ protect his back from contact with the cold mud.  I protested
+ against taking this seat, which so much more befitted him than I,
+ but the Doctor would not yield: I must take it.
+
+ We were seated--the Doctor and I--with our backs to the wall.
+ The Arabs took seats on our left.  More than a thousand natives
+ were in our front, filling the whole square densely, indulging
+ their curiosity, and discussing the fact of two white men meeting
+ at Ujiji--one just come from Manyuema, in the west, the other from
+ Unyanyembe, in the east.
+
+ Conversation began.  What about?  I declare I have forgotten.
+ Oh! we mutually asked questions of one another, such as
+ "How did you come here?" and "Where have you been all this long
+ time?--the world has believed you to be dead." Yes, that was the
+ way it began: but whatever the Doctor informed me, and that which
+ I communicated to him, I cannot correctly report, for I found myself
+ gazing at him, conning the wonderful figure and face of the man at
+ whose side I now sat in Central Africa.  Every hair of his head
+ and beard, every wrinkle of his face, the wanness of his features,
+ and the slightly wearied look he wore, were all imparting
+ intelligence to me--the knowledge I craved for so much ever since
+ I heard the words, "Take what you want, but find Livingstone."
+ What I saw was deeply interesting intelligence to me, and unvarnished
+ truth.  I was listening and reading at the same time.  What did these
+ dumb witnesses relate to me?
+
+ Oh, reader, had you been at my side on this day in Ujiji, how
+ eloquently could be told the nature of this man's work!  Had you
+ been there but to see and hear!  His lips gave me the details; lips
+ that never lie.  I cannot repeat what he said; I was too much
+ engrossed to take my note-book out, and begin to stenograph his story.
+ He had so much to say that he began at the end, seemingly oblivious
+ of the fact that five or six years had to be accounted for.  But his
+ account was oozing out; it was growing fast into grand proportions--
+ into a most marvellous history of deeds.
+
+ The Arabs rose up, with a delicacy I approved, as if they intuitively
+ knew that we ought to be left to ourselves.  I sent Bombay with them
+ to give them the news they also wanted so much to know about the
+ affairs at Unyanyembe.  Sayd bin Majid was the father of the gallant
+ young man whom I saw at Masangi, and who fought with me at Zimbizo,
+ and who soon afterwards was killed by Mirambo's Ruga-Ruga in the
+ forest of Wilyankuru; and, knowing that I had been there, he
+ earnestly desired to hear the tale of the fight; but they had all
+ friends at Unyanyembe, and it was but natural that they should be
+ anxious to hear of what concerned them.
+
+ After giving orders to Bombay and Asmani for the provisioning of
+ the men of the Expedition, I called "Kaif-Halek," or "How-do-ye-do,"
+ and introduced him to Dr. Livingstone as one of the soldiers in
+ charge of certain goods left at Unyanyembe, whom I had compelled
+ to accompany me to Ujiji, that he might deliver in person to his
+ master the letter-bag with which he had been entrusted.  This was
+ that famous letter-bag marked "Nov. 1st, 1870," which was now
+ delivered into the Doctor's hands 365 days after it left Zanzibar!
+ How long, I wonder, had it remained at Unyanyembe had I not been
+ despatched into Central Africa in search of the great traveller?
+
+ The Doctor kept the letter-bag on his knee, then, presently, opened
+ it, looked at the letters contained there, and read one or two of
+ his children's letters, his face in the meanwhile lighting up.
+
+ He asked me to tell him the news.  "No, Doctor," said I, "read your
+ letters first, which I am sure you must be impatient to read."
+
+ "Ah," said he, "I have waited years for letters, and I have been
+ taught patience.  I can surely afford to wait a few hours longer.
+ No, tell me the general news: how is the world getting along?
+
+ "You probably know much already.  Do you know that the Suez Canal
+ is a fact--is opened, and a regular trade carried on between Europe
+ and India through it?"
+
+ "I did not hear about the opening of it.  Well, that is grand news!
+ What else?"
+
+ Shortly I found myself enacting the part of an annual periodical
+ to him.  There was no need of exaggeration of any penny-a-line
+ news, or of any sensationalism.  The world had witnessed and
+ experienced much the last few years.  The Pacific Railroad had been
+ completed (1869); Grant had been elected President of the United States;
+ Egypt had been flooded with savans: the Cretan rebellion had
+ terminated (1866-1868); a Spanish revolution had driven Isabella
+ from the throne of Spain, and a Regent had been appointed: General
+ Prim was assassinated; a Castelar had electrified Europe with his
+ advanced ideas upon the liberty of worship; Prussia had humbled Denmark,
+ and annexed Schleswig-Holstein <1864>, and her armies were now around
+ Paris; the "Man of Destiny" was a prisoner at Wilhelmshohe;
+ the Queen of Fashion and the Empress of the French was a fugitive;
+ and the child born in the purple had lost for ever the Imperial
+ crown intended for his head; the Napoleon dynasty was extinguished
+ by the Prussians, Bismarck and Von Moltke; and France, the proud
+ empire, was humbled to the dust.
+
+ What could a man have exaggerated of these facts?  What a budget
+ of news it was to one who had emerged from the depths of the
+ primeval forests of Manyuema!  The reflection of the dazzling
+ light of civilisation was cast on him while Livingstone was thus
+ listening in wonder to one of the most exciting pages of history
+ ever repeated.  How the puny deeds of barbarism paled before
+ these!  Who could tell under what new phases of uneasy life Europe
+ was labouring even then, while we, two of her lonely children,
+ rehearsed the tale of her late woes and glories?  More worthily,
+ perhaps, had the tongue of a lyric Demodocus recounted them; but,
+ in the absence of the poet, the newspaper correspondent performed
+ his part as well and truthfully as he could.
+
+ Not long after the Arabs had departed, a dishful of hot hashed-meat
+ cakes was sent to us by Sayd bin Majid, and a curried chicken was
+ received from Mohammed bin Sali, and Moeni Kheri sent a dishful of
+ stewed goat-meat and rice; and thus presents of food came in
+ succession, and as fast as they were brought we set to.  I had a
+ healthy, stubborn digestion--the exercise I had taken had put it in
+ prime order; but Livingstone--he had been complaining that he had
+ no appetite, that his stomach refused everything but a cup of tea
+ now and then--he ate also--ate like a vigorous, hungry man; and,
+ as he vied with me in demolishing the pancakes, he kept repeating,
+ "You have brought me new life.  You have brought me new life."
+
+ "Oh, by George!" I said, "I have forgotten something.  Hasten,
+ Selim, and bring that bottle; you know which and bring me the silver
+ goblets.  I brought this bottle on purpose for this event, which
+ I hoped would come to pass, though often it seemed useless to expect
+ it."
+
+ Selim knew where the bottle was, and he soon returned with it--a
+ bottle of Sillery champagne; and, handing the Doctor a silver
+ goblet brimful of the exhilarating wine, and pouring a small
+ quantity into my own, I said,
+
+ "Dr. Livingstone, to your very good health, sir."
+
+ "And to yours!" he responded, smilingly.
+
+ And the champagne I had treasured for this happy meeting was drunk
+ with hearty good wishes to each other.
+
+ But we kept on talking and talking, and prepared food was being
+ brought to us all that afternoon; and we kept on eating each time
+ it was brought, until I had eaten even to repletion, and the Doctor
+ was obliged to confess that he had eaten enough.  Still, Halimah,
+ the female cook of the Doctor's establishment, was in a state of
+ the greatest excitement.  She had been protruding her head out of
+ the cookhouse to make sure that there were really two white men
+ sitting down in the veranda, when there used to be only one, who
+ would not, because he could not, eat anything; and she had been
+ considerably exercised in her mind about this fact.  She was
+ afraid the Doctor did not properly appreciate her culinary
+ abilities; but now she was amazed at the extraordinary quantity
+ of food eaten, and she was in a state of delightful excitement.
+ We could hear her tongue rolling off a tremendous volume of
+ clatter to the wondering crowds who halted before the kitchen
+ to hear the current of news with which she edified them.  Poor,
+ faithful soul!  While we listened to the noise of her furious
+ gossip, the Doctor related her faithful services, and the
+ terrible anxiety she evinced when the guns first announced
+ the  arrival of another white man in Ujiji; how she had been
+ flying about in a state cf the utmost excitement, from the kitchen
+ into his presence, and out again into the square, asking all sorts
+ of questions; how she was in despair at the scantiness of the
+ general larder and treasury of the strange household; how she
+ was anxious to make up for their poverty by a grand appearance--
+ to make up a sort of Barmecide feast to welcome the white man.
+ "Why," said she, "is he not one of us?  Does he not bring plenty
+ of cloth and beads?  Talk about the Arabs!  Who are they that
+ they should be compared to white men?  Arabs, indeed!"
+
+ The Doctor and I conversed upon many things, especially upon his
+ own immediate troubles, and his disappointments, upon his arrival
+ in Ujiji, when told that all his goods had been sold, and he was
+ reduced to poverty.  He had but twenty cloths or so left of the
+ stock he had deposited with the man called Sherif, the half-caste
+ drunken tailor, who was sent by the Consul in charge of the goods.
+ Besides which he had been suffering from an attack of dysentery,
+ and his condition was most deplorable.  He was but little improved
+ on this day, though he had eaten well, and already began to feel
+ stronger and better.
+
+ This day, like all others, though big with happiness to me, at last
+ was fading away.  While sitting with our faces looking to the east,
+ as Livingstone had been sitting for days preceding my arrival, we
+ noted the dark shadows which crept up above the grove of palms
+ beyond the village, and above the rampart of mountains which we had
+ crossed that day, now looming through the fast approaching
+ darkness; and we listened, with our hearts full of gratitude to
+ the Great Giver of Good and Dispenser of all Happiness, to the
+ sonorous thunder of the surf of the Tanganika, and to the chorus
+ which the night insects sang.  Hours passed, and we were still
+ sitting there with our minds busy upon the day's remarkable events,
+ when I remembered that the traveller had not yet read his letters.
+
+ "Doctor," I said, "you had better read your letters.  I will not
+ keep you up any longer."
+
+ "Yes," he answered, "it is getting late; and I will go and read
+ my friends' letters.  Good-night, and God bless you."
+
+ "Good-night, my dear Doctor; and let me hope that your news will
+ be such as you desire."
+
+ I have now related, by means of my Diary, "How I found Livingstone,"
+ as recorded on the evening of that great day.  I have been averse
+ to reduce it by process of excision and suppression, into a mere
+ cold narrative, because, by so doing, I would be unable to record
+ what feelings swayed each member of the Expedition as well as myself
+ during the days preceding the discovery of the lost traveller, and
+ more especially the day it was the good fortune of both Livingstone
+ and myself to clasp each other's hands in the strong friendship
+ which was born in that hour we thus strangely met.  The aged
+ traveller, though cruelly belied, contrary to all previous expectation,
+ received me as a friend; and the cordial warmth with which he accepted
+ my greeting; the courtesy with which he tendered to me a shelter
+ in his own house; the simple candour of his conversation; graced
+ by unusual modesty of manner, and meekness of spirit, wrought in me
+ such a violent reaction in his favor, that when the parting
+ "good-night" was uttered, I felt a momentary vague fear lest the
+ fulness of joy which I experienced that evening would be diminished
+ by some envious fate, before the morrow's sun should rise above Ujiji.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII. -- INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE AT UJIJI--LIVINGSTONE'S OWN
+STORY OF HIS JOURNEYS, HIS TROUBLES, AND DISAPPOINTMENTS.
+
+ "If there is love between us, inconceivably delicious, and
+ profitable will our intercourse be; if not, your time is lost,
+ and you will only annoy me.  I shall seem to you stupid, and the
+ reputation I have false.  All my good is magnetic, and I educate
+ not by lessons, but by going about my business."--Emerson's
+ 'Representative Men'.
+
+
+ I woke up early next morning with a sudden start.  The room was
+ strange!  It was a house, and not my tent!  Ah, yes! I recollected
+ I had discovered Livingstone, and I was in his house.  I listened,
+ that the knowledge dawning on me might be confirmed by the sound
+ of his voice.  I heard nothing but the sullen roar of the surf.
+
+ I lay quietly in bed.  Bed!  Yes, it was a primitive four-poster,
+ with the leaves of the palm-tree spread upon it instead of down,
+ and horsehair and my bearskin spread over this serving me in place
+ of linen.  I began to put myself under rigid mental cross-examination,
+and to an analyzation of my position.
+
+"What was I sent for?"
+
+"To find Livingstone."
+
+"Have you found him?"
+
+"Yes, of course; am I not in his house? Whose compass is that hanging
+on a peg there? Whose clothes, whose boots, are those? Who reads those
+newspapers, those 'Saturday Reviews' and numbers of 'Punch' lying on the
+floor?"
+
+"Well, what are you going to do now?"
+
+"I shall tell him this morning who sent me, and what brought me here.
+I will then ask him to write a letter to Mr. Bennett, and to give
+what news he can spare. I did not come here to rob him of his news.
+Sufficient for me is it that I have found him. It is a complete success
+so far. But it will be a greater one if he gives me letters for Mr.
+Bennett, and an acknowledgment that he has seen me."
+
+"Do you think he will do so?"
+
+"Why not? I have come here to do him a service. He has no goods. I have.
+He has no men with him. I have. If I do a friendly part by him, will he
+not do a friendly part by me? What says the poet?--
+
+              Nor hope to find
+     A friend, but who has found a friend in thee.
+     All like the purchase; few the price will pay
+     And this makes friends such wonders here below.
+
+I have paid the purchase, by coming so far to do him a service. But I
+think, from what I have seen of him last night, that he is not such
+a niggard and misanthrope as I was led to believe. He exhibited
+considerable emotion, despite the monosyllabic greeting, when he shook
+my hand. If he were a man to feel annoyance at any person coming after
+him, he would not have received me as he did, nor would he ask me to
+live with him, but he would have surlily refused to see me, and told
+me to mind my own business. Neither does he mind my nationality; for
+'here,' said he, 'Americans and Englishmen are the same people. We speak
+the same language and have the same ideas.' Just so, Doctor; I agree
+with you. Here at least, Americans and Englishmen shall be brothers,
+and, whatever I can do for you, you may command me freely."
+
+I dressed myself quietly, intending to take a stroll along the Tanganika
+before the Doctor should rise; opened the door, which creaked horribly
+on its hinges, and walked out to the veranda.
+
+"Halloa, Doctor!--you up already? I hope you have slept well?"
+
+"Good-morning, Mr. Stanley! I am glad to see you. I hope you rested
+well. I sat up late reading my letters. You have brought me good and bad
+news. But sit down." He made a place for me by his side. "Yes, many of
+my friends are dead. My eldest son has met with a sad accident--that is,
+my boy Tom; my second son, Oswell, is at college studying medicine, and
+is doing well I am told. Agnes, my eldest daughter, has been enjoying
+herself in a yacht, with 'Sir Paraffine' Young and his family. Sir
+Roderick, also, is well, and expresses a hope that he will soon see me.
+You have brought me quite a budget."
+
+The man was not an apparition, then, and yesterday's scenes were not the
+result of a dream! and I gazed on him intently, for thus I was assured
+he had not run away, which was the great fear that constantly haunted me
+as I was journeying to Ujiji.
+
+"Now, Doctor," said I, "you are, probably, wondering why I came here?"
+
+"It is true," said he; "I have been wondering. I thought you, at first,
+an emissary of the French Government, in the place of Lieutenant Le
+Saint, who died a few miles above Gondokoro. I heard you had boats,
+plenty of men, and stores, and I really believed you were some French
+officer, until I saw the American flag; and, to tell you the truth, I
+was rather glad it was so, because I could not have talked to him in
+French; and if he did not know English, we had been a pretty pair of
+white men in Ujiji! I did not like to ask you yesterday, because I
+thought it was none of my business."
+
+"Well," said I, laughing, "for your sake I am glad that I am an American,
+and not a Frenchman, and that we can understand each other perfectly
+without an interpreter. I see that the Arabs are wondering that you, an
+Englishman, and I, an American, understand each other. We must take care
+not to tell them that the English and Americans have fought, and that
+there are 'Alabama' claims left unsettled, and that we have such people
+as Fenians in America, who hate you. But, seriously, Doctor--now don't
+be frightened when I tell you that I have come after--YOU!"
+
+"After me?"
+
+"Yes."
+
+"How?"
+
+"Well. You have heard of the 'New York Herald?'"
+
+"Oh--who has not heard of that newspaper?"
+
+"Without his father's knowledge or consent, Mr. James Gordon Bennett,
+son of Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the 'Herald,' has
+commissioned me to find you--to get whatever news of your discoveries
+you like to give--and to assist you, if I can, with means."
+
+"Young Mr. Bennett told you to come after me, to find me out, and help
+me! It is no wonder, then, you praised Mr. Bennett so much last night."
+
+"I know him--I am proud to say--to be just what I say he is. He is an
+ardent, generous, and true man."
+
+"Well, indeed! I am very much obliged to him; and it makes me feel proud
+to think that you Americans think so much of me. You have just come in
+the proper time; for I was beginning to think that I should have to beg
+from the Arabs. Even they are in want of cloth, and there are but few
+beads in Ujiji. That fellow Sherif has robbed me of all. I wish I could
+embody my thanks to Mr. Bennett in suitable words; but if I fail to do
+so, do not, I beg of you, believe me the less grateful."
+
+"And now, Doctor, having disposed of this little affair, Ferajji shall
+bring breakfast; if you have no objection."
+
+"You have given me an appetite," he said.
+
+"Halimah is my cook, but she never can tell the difference between tea
+and coffee."
+
+Ferajji, the cook, was ready as usual with excellent tea, and a dish of
+smoking cakes; "dampers," as the Doctor called them. I never did care
+much for this kind of a cake fried in a pan, but they were necessary
+to the Doctor, who had nearly lost all his teeth from the hard fare of
+Lunda. He had been compelled to subsist on green ears of Indian corn;
+there was no meat in that district; and the effort to gnaw at the
+corn ears had loosened all his teeth. I preferred the corn scones of
+Virginia, which, to my mind, were the nearest approach to palatable
+bread obtainable in Central Africa.
+
+The Doctor said he had thought me a most luxurious and rich man, when he
+saw my great bath-tub carried on the shoulders of one of my men; but he
+thought me still more luxurious this morning, when my knives and forks,
+and plates, and cups, saucers, silver spoons, and silver teapot were
+brought forth shining and bright, spread on a rich Persian carpet, and
+observed that I was well attended to by my yellow and ebon Mercuries.
+
+This was the beginning of our life at Ujiji. I knew him not as a friend
+before my arrival. He was only an object to me--a great item for a daily
+newspaper, as much as other subjects in which the voracious news-loving
+public delight in. I had gone over battlefields, witnessed revolutions,
+civil wars, rebellions, emeutes and massacres; stood close to the
+condemned murderer to record his last struggles and last sighs; but
+never had I been called to record anything that moved me so much as this
+man's woes and sufferings, his privations and disappointments, which now
+were poured into my ear. Verily did I begin to perceive that "the Gods
+above do with just eyes survey the affairs of men." I began to recognize
+the hand of an overruling and kindly Providence.
+
+The following are singular facts worthy for reflection. I was,
+commissioned for the duty of discovering Livingstone sometime in
+October, 1869. Mr. Bennett was ready with the money, and I was ready for
+the journey. But, observe, reader, that I did not proceed directly upon
+the search mission. I had many tasks to fulfil before proceeding with
+it, and many thousand miles to travel over. Supposing that I had
+gone direct to Zanzibar from Paris, seven or eight months afterwards,
+perhaps, I should have found myself at Ujiji, but Livingstone would not
+have been found there then; he was on the Lualaba; and I should have
+had to follow him on his devious tracks through the primeval forests of
+Manyuema, and up along the crooked course of the Lualaba for hundreds
+of miles. The time taken by me in travelling up the Nile, back to
+Jerusalem, then to Constantinople, Southern Russia, the Caucasus, and
+Persia, was employed by Livingstone in fruitful discoveries west of the
+Tanganika. Again, consider that I arrived at Unyanyembe in the latter
+part of June, and that owing to a war I was delayed three months at
+Unyanyembe, leading a fretful, peevish and impatient life. But while I
+was thus fretting myself, and being delayed by a series of accidents,
+Livingstone was being forced back to Ujiji in the same month. It took
+him from June to October to march to Ujiji. Now, in September, I broke
+loose from the thraldom which accident had imposed on me, and hurried
+southward to Ukonongo, then westward to Kawendi, then northward to
+Uvinza, then westward to Ujiji, only about three weeks after the
+Doctor's arrival, to find him resting under the veranda of his house
+with his face turned eastward, the direction from which I was coming.
+Had I gone direct from Paris on the search I might have lost him; had I
+been enabled to have gone direct to Ujiji from Unyanyembe I might have
+lost him.
+
+The days came and went peacefully and happily, under the palms of Ujiji.
+My companion was improving in health and spirits. Life had been brought
+back to him; his fading vitality was restored, his enthusiasm for his
+work was growing up again into a height that was compelling him to
+desire to be up and doing. But what could he do, with five men and
+fifteen or twenty cloths?
+
+"Have you seen the northern head of the Tangannka, Doctor?" I asked one
+day.
+
+"No; I did try to go there, but the Wajiji were doing their best to
+fleece me, as they did both Burton and Speke, and I had not a great deal
+of cloth. If I had gone to the head of the Tanganika, I could not have
+gone, to Manyuema. The central line of drainage was the most important,
+and that is the Lualaba. Before this line the question whether there
+is a connection between the Tanganika and the Albert N'Yanza sinks into
+insignificance. The great line of drainage is the river flowing from
+latitude 11 degrees south, which I followed for over seven degrees
+northward. The Chambezi, the name given to its most southern extremity,
+drains a large tract of country south of the southernmost source of the
+Tanganika; it must, therefore, be the most important. I have not the
+least doubt, myself, but that this lake is the Upper Tanganika, and the
+Albert N'Yanza of Baker is the Lower Tanganika, which are connected by a
+river flowing from the upper to the lower. This is my belief, based upon
+reports of the Arabs, and a test I made of the flow with water-plants.
+But I really never gave it much thought."
+
+"Well, if I were you, Doctor, before leaving Ujiji, I should explore it,
+and resolve the doubts upon the subject; lest, after you leave here,
+you should not return by this way. The Royal Geographical Society attach
+much importance to this supposed connection, and declare you are the
+only man who can settle it. If I can be of any service to you, you may
+command me. Though I did not come to Africa as an explorer, I have
+a good deal of curiosity upon the subject, and should be willing to
+accompany you. I have with me about twenty men who understand rowing we
+have plenty of guns, cloth, and beads; and if we can get a canoe from
+the Arabs we can manage the thing easily."
+
+"Oh, we can get a canoe from Sayd bin Majid. This man has been very kind
+to me, and if ever there was an Arab gentleman, he is one."
+
+"Then it is settled, is it, that we go?"
+
+"I am ready, whenever you are."
+
+"I am at your command. Don't you hear my men call you the 'Great
+Master,' and me the 'Little Master?' It would never do for the 'Little
+Master' to command."
+
+By this time Livingstone was becoming known to me. I defy any one to be
+in his society long without thoroughly fathoming him, for in him there
+is no guile, and what is apparent on the surface is the thing that is in
+him. I simply write down my own opinion of the man as I have seen him,
+not as he represents himself; as I know him to be, not as I have heard
+of him. I lived with him from the 10th November, 1871, to the 14th
+March, 1872; witnessed his conduct in the camp, and on the march, and
+my feelings for him are those of unqualified admiration. The camp is the
+best place to discover a man's weaknesses, where, if he is flighty or
+wrong-headed, he is sure to develop his hobbies and weak side. I think
+it possible, however, that Livingstone, with an unsuitable companion,
+might feel annoyance. I know I should do so very readily, if a man's
+character was of that oblique nature that it was an impossibility to
+travel in his company. I have seen men, in whose company I felt nothing
+but a thraldom, which it was a duty to my own self-respect to cast off
+as soon as possible; a feeling of utter incompatibility, with whose
+nature mine could never assimilate. But Livingstone was a character that
+I venerated, that called forth all my enthusiasm, that evoked nothing
+but sincerest admiration.
+
+Dr. Livingstone is about sixty years old, though after he was restored
+to health he appeared more like a man who had not passed his fiftieth
+year. His hair has a brownish colour yet, but is here and there streaked
+with grey lines over the temples; his whiskers and moustache are
+very grey. He shaves his chin daily. His eyes, which are hazel, are
+remarkably bright; he has a sight keen as a hawk's. His teeth alone
+indicate the weakness of age; the hard fare of Lunda has made havoc in
+their lines. His form, which soon assumed a stoutish appearance, is a
+little over the ordinary height with the slightest possible bow in the
+shoulders. When walking he has a firm but heavy tread, like that of an
+overworked or fatigued man. He is accustomed to wear a naval cap with
+a semicircular peak, by which he has been identified throughout Africa.
+His dress, when first I saw him, exhibited traces of patching and
+repairing, but was scrupulously clean.
+
+I was led to believe that Livingstone possessed a splenetic,
+misanthropic temper; some have said that he is garrulous, that he is
+demented; that he has utterly changed from the David Livingstone whom
+people knew as the reverend missionary; that he takes no notes or
+observations but such as those which no other person could read but
+himself; and it was reported, before I proceeded to Central Africa, that
+he was married to an African princess.
+
+I respectfully beg to differ with all and each of the above statements.
+I grant he is not an angel, but he approaches to that being as near
+as the nature of a living man will allow. I never saw any spleen or
+misanthropy in him--as for being garrulous, Dr. Livingstone is quite
+the reverse: he is reserved, if anything; and to the man who says Dr.
+Livingstone is changed, all I can say is, that he never could have known
+him, for it is notorious that the Doctor has a fund of quiet humour,
+which he exhibits at all times whenever he is among friends. I must
+also beg leave to correct the gentleman who informed me that Livingstone
+takes no notes or observations. The huge Letts's Diary which I carried
+home to his daughter is full of notes, and there are no less than a
+score of sheets within it filled with observations which he took during
+the last trip he made to Manyuema alone; and in the middle of the book
+there is sheet after sheet, column after column, carefully written, of
+figures alone. A large letter which I received from him has been sent to
+Sir Thomas MacLear, and this contains nothing but observations. During
+the four months I was with him, I noticed him every evening making most
+careful notes; and a large tin box that he has with him contains numbers
+of field note-books, the contents of which I dare say will see the
+light some time. His maps also evince great care and industry. As to the
+report of his African marriage, it is unnecessary to say more than that
+it is untrue, and it is utterly beneath a gentleman to hint at such a
+thing in connection with the name of David Livingstone.
+
+There is a good-natured abandon about Livingstone which was not lost
+on me. Whenever he began to laugh, there was a contagion about it,
+that compelled me to imitate him. It was such a laugh as Herr
+Teufelsdrockh's--a laugh of the whole man from head to heel. If he
+told a story, he related it in such a way as to convince one of its
+truthfulness; his face was so lit up by the sly fun it contained, that I
+was sure the story was worth relating, and worth listening to.
+
+The wan features which had shocked me at first meeting, the heavy step
+which told of age and hard travel, the grey beard and bowed shoulders,
+belied the man. Underneath that well-worn exterior lay an endless fund
+of high spirits and inexhaustible humour; that rugged frame of his
+enclosed a young and most exuberant soul. Every day I heard innumerable
+jokes and pleasant anecdotes; interesting hunting stories, in which his
+friends Oswell, Webb, Vardon, and Gorden Cumming were almost always the
+chief actors. I was not sure, at first, but this joviality, humour, and
+abundant animal spirits were the result of a joyous hysteria; but as I
+found they continued while I was with him, I am obliged to think them
+natural.
+
+Another thing which specially attracted my attention was his wonderfully
+retentive memory. If we remember the many years he has spent in Africa,
+deprived of books, we may well think it an uncommon memory that can
+recite whole poems from Byron, Burns, Tennyson, Longfellow, Whittier,
+and Lowell. The reason of this may be found, perhaps, in the fact, that
+he has lived all his life almost, we may say, within himself. Zimmerman,
+a great student of human nature, says on this subject "The unencumbered
+mind recalls all that it has read, all that pleased the eye,
+and delighted the ear; and reflecting on every idea which either
+observation, or experience, or discourse has produced, gains new
+information by every reflection. The intellect contemplates all the
+former scenes of life; views by anticipation those that are yet to come;
+and blends all ideas of past and future in the actual enjoyment of the
+present moment." He has lived in a world which revolved inwardly, out
+of which he seldom awoke except to attend to the immediate practical
+necessities of himself and people; then relapsed again into the same
+happy inner world, which he must have peopled with his own friends,
+relations, acquaintances, familiar readings, ideas, and associations; so
+that wherever he might be, or by whatsoever he was surrounded, his own
+world always possessed more attractions to his cultured mind than were
+yielded by external circumstances.
+
+The study of Dr. Livingstone would not be complete if we did not take
+the religious side of his character into consideration. His religion
+is not of the theoretical kind, but it is a constant, earnest, sincere
+practice. It is neither demonstrative nor loud, but manifests itself
+in a quiet, practical way, and is always at work. It is not aggressive,
+which sometimes is troublesome, if not impertinent. In him, religion
+exhibits its loveliest features; it governs his conduct not only towards
+his servants, but towards the natives, the bigoted Mohammedans, and all
+who come in contact with him. Without it, Livingstone, with his ardent
+temperament, his enthusiasm, his high spirit and courage, must have
+become uncompanionable, and a hard master. Religion has tamed him, and
+made him a Christian gentleman: the crude and wilful have been refined
+and subdued; religion has made him the most companionable of men and
+indulgent of masters--a man whose society is pleasurable.
+
+In Livingstone I have seen many amiable traits. His gentleness never
+forsakes him; his hopefulness never deserts him. No harassing anxieties,
+distraction of mind, long separation from home and kindred, can make him
+complain. He thinks "all will come out right at last;" he has such faith
+in the goodness of Providence. The sport of adverse circumstances, the
+plaything of the miserable beings sent to him from Zanzibar--he has been
+baffled and worried, even almost to the grave, yet he will not desert
+the charge imposed upon him by his friend, Sir Roderick Murchison. To
+the stern dictates of duty, alone, has he sacrificed his home and ease,
+the pleasures, refinements, and luxuries of civilized life. His is the
+Spartan heroism, the inflexibility of the Roman, the enduring resolution
+of the Anglo-Saxon--never to relinquish his work, though his heart
+yearns for home; never to surrender his obligations until he can write
+Finis to his work.
+
+But you may take any point in Dr. Livingstone's character, and analyse
+it carefully, and I would challenge any man to find a fault in it. He is
+sensitive, I know; but so is any man of a high mind and generous nature.
+He is sensitive on the point of being doubted or being criticised. An
+extreme love of truth is one of his strongest characteristics, which
+proves him to be a man of strictest principles, and conscientious
+scruples; being such, he is naturally sensitive, and shrinks from any
+attacks on the integrity of his observations, and the accuracy of his
+reports. He is conscious of having laboured in the course of geography
+and science with zeal and industry, to have been painstaking, and as
+exact as circumstances would allow. Ordinary critics seldom take into
+consideration circumstances, but, utterly regardless of the labor
+expended in obtaining the least amount of geographical information in a
+new land, environed by inconceivable dangers and difficulties, such
+as Central Africa presents, they seem to take delight in rending to
+tatters, and reducing to nil, the fruits of long years of labor, by
+sharply-pointed shafts of ridicule and sneers.
+
+Livingstone no doubt may be mistaken in some of his conclusions about
+certain points in the geography of Central Africa, but he is not so
+dogmatic and positive a man as to refuse conviction. He certainly
+demands, when arguments in contra are used in opposition to him, higher
+authority than abstract theory. His whole life is a testimony against
+its unreliability, and his entire labor of years were in vain if theory
+can be taken in evidence against personal observation and patient
+investigation.
+
+The reluctance he manifests to entertain suppositions, possibilities
+regarding the nature, form, configuration of concrete immutable matter
+like the earth, arises from the fact, that a man who commits himself
+to theories about such an untheoretical subject as Central Africa
+is deterred from bestirring himself to prove them by the test of
+exploration. His opinion of such a man is, that he unfits himself
+for his duty, that he is very likely to become a slave to theory--a
+voluptuous fancy, which would master him.
+
+It is his firm belief, that a man who rests his sole knowledge of the
+geography of Africa on theory, deserves to be discredited. It has been
+the fear of being discredited and criticised and so made to appear
+before the world as a man who spent so many valuable years in Africa
+for the sake of burdening the geographical mind with theory that has
+detained him so long in Africa, doing his utmost to test the value of
+the main theory which clung to him, and would cling to him until he
+proved or disproved it.
+
+This main theory is his belief that in the broad and mighty Lualaba he
+has discovered the head waters of the Nile. His grounds for believing
+this are of such nature and weight as to compel him to despise
+the warning that years are advancing on him, and his former iron
+constitution is failing. He believes his speculations on this point will
+be verified; he believes he is strong enough to pursue his explorations
+until he can return to his country, with the announcement that the
+Lualaba is none other than the Nile.
+
+On discovering that the insignificant stream called the Chambezi, which
+rises between 10 degrees S. and 12 degrees S., flowed westerly, and then
+northerly through several lakes, now under the names of the Chambezi,
+then as the Luapula, and then as the Lualaba, and that it still
+continued its flow towards the north for over 7 degrees, Livingstone
+became firmly of the opinion that the river whose current he followed
+was the Egyptian Nile. Failing at lat. 4 degrees S. to pursue his
+explorations further without additional supplies, he determined to
+return to Ujiji to obtain them.
+
+And now, having obtained them, he intends to return to the point where
+he left off work. He means to follow that great river until it is firmly
+established what name shall eventually be given the noble water-way
+whose course he has followed through so many sick toilings and
+difficulties. To all entreaties to come home, to all the glowing
+temptations which home and innumerable friends offer, he returns the
+determined answer:--
+
+"No; not until my work is ended."
+
+I have often heard our servants discuss our respective merits. "Your
+master," say my servants to Livingstone's, "is a good man--a very good
+man; he does not beat you, for he has a kind heart; but ours--oh! he
+is sharp--hot as fire"--"mkali sana, kana moto." From being hated and
+thwarted in every possible way by the Arabs and half-castes upon
+first arrival in Ujiji, he has, through his uniform kindness and mild,
+pleasant temper, won all hearts. I observed that universal respect was
+paid to him. Even the Mohammedans never passed his house without calling
+to pay their compliments, and to say, "The blessing of God rest on you."
+Each Sunday morning he gathers his little flock around him, and reads
+prayers and a chapter from the Bible, in a natural, unaffected, and
+sincere tone; and afterwards delivers a short address in the Kisawahili
+language, about the subject read to them, which is listened to with
+interest and attention.
+
+There is another point in Livingstone's character about which readers of
+his books, and students of his travels, would like to know, and that is
+his ability to withstand the dreadful climate of Central Africa, and
+the consistent energy with which he follows up his explorations. His
+consistent energy is native to him and to his race. He is a very fine
+example of the perseverance, doggedness, and tenacity which characterise
+the Anglo-Saxon spirit; but his ability to withstand the climate is due
+not only to the happy constitution with which he was born, but to the
+strictly temperate life he has ever led. A drunkard and a man of vicious
+habits could never have withstood the climate of Central Africa.
+
+The second day after my arrival in Ujiji I asked the Doctor if he did
+not feel a desire, sometimes, to visit his country, and take a little
+rest after his six years' explorations; and the answer he gave me fully
+reveals the man. Said he:
+
+"I should like very much to go home and see my children once again, but
+I cannot bring my heart to abandon the task I have undertaken, when it
+is so nearly completed. It only requires six or seven months more to
+trace the true source that I have discovered with Petherick's branch of
+the White Nile, or with the Albert N'Yanza of Sir Samuel Baker, which is
+the lake called by the natives 'Chowambe.' Why should I go home before
+my task is ended, to have to come back again to do what I can very well
+do now?"
+
+"And why?" I asked, "did you come so far back without finishing the task
+which you say you have got to do?"
+
+"Simply because I was forced. My men would not budge a step forward.
+They mutinied, and formed a secret resolution--if I still insisted upon
+going on--to raise a disturbance in the country, and after they had
+effected it to abandon me; in which case I should have been killed. It
+was dangerous to go any further. I had explored six hundred miles of the
+watershed, had traced all the principal streams which discharge their
+waters into the central line of drainage, but when about starting to
+explore the last hundred miles the hearts of my people failed them,
+and they set about frustrating me in every possible way. Now, having
+returned seven hundred miles to get a new supply of stores, and another
+escort, I find myself destitute of even the means to live but for a few
+weeks, and sick in mind and body."
+
+Here I may pause to ask any brave man how he would have comported
+himself in such a crisis. Many would have been in exceeding hurry to get
+home to tell the news of the continued explorations and discoveries,
+and to relieve the anxiety of the sorrowing family and friends awaiting
+their return. Enough surely had been accomplished towards the solution
+of the problem that had exercised the minds of his scientific associates
+of the Royal Geograpical Society. It was no negative exploration, it was
+hard, earnest labor of years, self-abnegation, enduring patience, and
+exalted fortitude, such as ordinary men fail to exhibit.
+
+Suppose Livingstone had hurried to the coast after he had discovered
+Lake Bangweolo, to tell the news to the geographical world; then had
+returned to discover Moero, and run away again; then went back once more
+only to discover Kamolondo, and to race back again. This would not be in
+accordance with Livingstone's character. He must not only discover the
+Chambezi, Lake Bangweolo, Luapula River, Lake Moero, Lualaba River, and
+Lake Kamolondo, but he must still tirelessly urge his steps forward to
+put the final completion to the grand lacustrine river system. Had he
+followed the example of ordinary explorers, he would have been running
+backwards and forwards to tell the news, instead of exploring; and he
+might have been able to write a volume upon the discovery of each lake,
+and earn much money thereby. They are no few months' explorations that
+form the contents of his books. His 'Missionary Travels' embraces a
+period of sixteen years; his book on the Zambezi, five years; and if the
+great traveller lives to come home, his third book, the grandest of all,
+must contain the records of eight or nine years.
+
+It is a principle with Livingstone to do well what he undertakes to do;
+and in the consciousness that he is doing it, despite the yearning for
+his home which is sometimes overpowering, he finds, to a certain extent,
+contentment, if not happiness. To men differently constituted, a long
+residence amongst the savages of Africa would be contemplated
+with horror, yet Livingstone's mind can find pleasure and food for
+philosophic studies. The wonders of primeval nature, the great forests
+and sublime mountains, the perennial streams and sources of the great
+lakes, the marvels of the earth, the splendors of the tropic sky by day
+and by night--all terrestrial and celestial phenomena are manna to a
+man of such self-abnegation and devoted philanthropic spirit. He can be
+charmed with the primitive simplicity of Ethiop's dusky children, with
+whom he has spent so many years of his life; he has a sturdy faith in
+their capabilities; sees virtue in them where others see nothing but
+savagery; and wherever he has gone among them, he has sought to elevate
+a people that were apparently forgotten of God and Christian man.
+
+One night I took out my note-book, and prepared to take down from his
+own lips what he had to say about his travels; and unhesitatingly he
+related his experiences, of which the following is a summary:
+
+Dr. David Livingstone left the Island of Zanzibar in March, 1866. On
+the 7th of the following month he departed from Mikindany Bay for the
+interior, with an expedition consisting of twelve Sepoys from Bombay,
+nine men from Johanna, of the Comoro Islands, seven liberated slaves,
+and two Zambezi men, taking them as an experiment; six camels, three
+buffaloes, two mules, and three donkeys. He had thus thirty men with
+him, twelve of whom, viz., the Sepoys, were to act as guards for the
+Expedition. They were mostly armed with the Enfield rifles presented
+to the Doctor by the Bombay Government. The baggage of the expedition
+consisted of ten bales of cloth and two bags of beads, which were to
+serve as the currency by which they would be enabled to purchase the
+necessaries of life in the countries the Doctor intended to visit.
+Besides the cumbrous moneys, they carried several boxes of instruments,
+such as chronometers, air thermometers, sextant, and artificial horizon,
+boxes containing clothes, medicines, and personal necessaries. The
+expedition travelled up the left bank of the Rovuma River, a route as
+full of difficulties as any that could be chosen. For miles Livingstone
+and his party had to cut their way with their axes through the dense and
+almost impenetrable jungles which lined the river's banks. The road was
+a mere footpath, leading in the most erratic fashion into and through
+the dense vegetation, seeking the easiest outlet from it without any
+regard to the course it ran. The pagazis were able to proceed easily
+enough; but the camels, on account of their enormous height, could not
+advance a step without the axes of the party clearing the way. These
+tools of foresters were almost always required; but the advance of the
+expedition was often retarded by the unwillingness of the Sepoys and
+Johanna men to work.
+
+Soon after the departure of the expedition from the coast, the
+murmurings and complaints of these men began, and upon every occasion
+and at every opportunity they evinced a decided hostility to an advance.
+In order to prevent the progress of the Doctor, and in hopes that it
+would compel him to return to the coast, these men so cruelly treated
+the animals that before long there was not one left alive. But as this
+scheme failed, they set about instigating the natives against the white
+men, whom they accused most wantonly of strange practices. As this plan
+was most likely to succeed, and as it was dangerous to have such men
+with him, the Doctor arrived at the conclusion that it was best to
+discharge them, and accordingly sent the Sepoys back to the coast; but
+not without having first furnished them with the means of subsistence on
+their journey to the coast. These men were such a disreputable set that
+the natives spoke of them as the Doctor's slaves. One of their worst
+sins was the custom of giving their guns and ammunition to carry to the
+first woman or boy they met, whom they impressed for that purpose by
+such threats or promises as they were totally unable to perform, and
+unwarranted in making. An hour's marching was sufficient to fatigue
+them, after which they lay down on the road to bewail their hard fate,
+and concoct new schemes to frustrate their leader's purposes. Towards
+night they generally made their appearance at the camping-ground with
+the looks of half-dead men. Such men naturally made but a poor escort;
+for, had the party been attacked by a wandering tribe of natives of
+any strength, the Doctor could have made no defence, and no other
+alternative would have been left to him but to surrender and be ruined.
+
+The Doctor and his little party arrived on the 18th July, 1866, at a
+village belonging to a chief of the Wahiyou, situate eight days' march
+south of the Rovuma, and overlooking the watershed of the Lake Nyassa.
+The territory lying between the Rovuma River and this Wahiyou village
+was an uninhabited wilderness, during the transit of which Livingstone
+and his expedition suffered considerably from hunger and desertion of
+men.
+
+Early in August, 1866, the Doctor came to the country of Mponda, a
+chief who dwelt near the Lake Nyassa. On the road thither, two of the
+liberated slaves deserted him. Here also, Wekotani, a protege of the
+Doctor, insisted upon his discharge, alleging as an excuse--an excuse
+which the Doctor subsequently found to be untrue--that he had found his
+brother. He also stated that his family lived on the east side of the
+Nyassa Lake. He further stated that Mponda's favourite wife was his
+sister. Perceiving that Wekotani was unwilling to go with him further,
+the Doctor took him to Mponda, who now saw and heard of him for the
+first time, and, having furnished the ungrateful boy with enough cloth
+and beads to keep him until his "big brother" should call for him, left
+him with the chief, after first assuring himself that he would
+receive honourable treatment from him. The Doctor also gave Wekotanti
+writing-paper--as he could read and write, being accomplishments
+acquired at Bombay, where he had been put to school--so that, should he
+at any time feel disposed, he might write to his English friends, or to
+himself. The Doctor further enjoined him not to join in any of the
+slave raids usually made by his countrymen, the men of Nyassa, on
+their neighbours. Upon finding that his application for a discharge was
+successful, Wekotani endeavoured to induce Chumah, another protege
+of the Doctor's, and a companion, or chum, of Wekotani, to leave the
+Doctor's service and proceed with him, promising, as a bribe, a wife
+and plenty of pombe from his "big brother." Chumah, upon referring the
+matter to the Doctor, was advised not to go, as he (the Doctor) strongly
+suspected that Wekotani wanted only to make him his slave. Chumah wisely
+withdrew from his tempter. From Mponda's, the Doctor proceeded to the
+heel of the Nyassa, to the village of a Babisa chief, who required
+medicine for a skin disease. With his usual kindness, he stayed at this
+chief's village to treat his malady.
+
+While here, a half-caste Arab arrived from the western shore of the
+lake, and reported that he had been plundered by a band of Mazitu, at
+a place which the Doctor and Musa, chief of the Johanna men, were very
+well aware was at least 150 miles north-north-west of where they were
+then stopping. Musa, however, for his own reasons--which will appear
+presently--eagerly listened to the Arab's tale, and gave full credence
+to it. Having well digested its horrible details, he came to the Doctor
+to give him the full benefit of what he had heard with such willing
+ears. The traveller patiently listened to the narrative, which lost
+nothing of its portentous significance through Musa's relation, and then
+asked Musa if he believed it. "Yes," answered Musa, readily; "he tell
+me true, true. I ask him good, and he tell me true, true." The Doctor,
+however, said he did not believe it, for the Mazitu would not have been
+satisfied with merely plundering a man, they would have murdered him;
+but suggested, in order to allay the fears of his Moslem subordinate,
+that they should both proceed to the chief with whom they were staying,
+who, being a sensible man, would be able to advise them as to the
+probability or improbability of the tale being correct. Together, they
+proceeded to the Babisa chief, who, when he had heard the Arab's story,
+unhesitatingly denounced the Arab as a liar, and his story without the
+least foundation in fact; giving as a reason that, if the Mazitu had
+been lately in that vicinity, he should have heard of it soon enough.
+
+But Musa broke out with "No, no, Doctor; no, no, no; I no want to go to
+Mazitu. I no want Mazitu to kill me. I want to see my father, my
+mother, my child, in Johanna. I want no Mazitu." These are Musa's words
+_ipsissima verba_.
+
+To which the Doctor replied, "I don't want the Mazitu to kill me either;
+but, as you are afraid of them, I promise to go straight west until we
+get far past the beat of the Mazitu."
+
+Musa was not satisfied, but kept moaning and sorrowing, saying, "If we
+had two hundred guns with us I would go; but our small party of men they
+will attack by night, and kill all."
+
+The Doctor repeated his promise, "But I will not go near them; I will go
+west."
+
+As soon as he turned his face westward, Musa and the Johanna men ran
+away in a body.
+
+The Doctor says, in commenting upon Musa's conduct, that he felt
+strongly tempted to shoot Musa and another ringleader, but was,
+nevertheless, glad that he did not soil his hands with their vile blood.
+A day or two afterwards, another of his men--Simon Price by name--came
+to the Doctor with the same tale about the Mazitu, but, compelled by the
+scant number of his people to repress all such tendencies to desertion
+and faint-heartedness, the Doctor silenced him at once, and sternly
+forbade him to utter the name of the Mazitu any more.
+
+Had the natives not assisted him, he must have despaired of ever being
+able to penetrate the wild and unexplored interior which he was now
+about to tread. "Fortunately," as the Doctor says with unction, "I was
+in a country now, after leaving the shores of Nyassa, which the foot
+of the slave-trader has not trod; it was a new and virgin land, and of
+course, as I have always found in such cases, the natives were really
+good and hospitable, and for very small portions of cloth my baggage
+was conveyed from village to village by them." In many other ways
+the traveller, in his extremity, was kindly treated by the yet
+unsophisticated and innocent natives.
+
+On leaving this hospitable region in the early part of December, 1866,
+the Doctor entered a country where the Mazitu had exercised their
+customary marauding propensities. The land was swept clean of provisions
+and cattle, and the people had emigrated to other countries, beyond the
+bounds of those ferocious plunderers. Again the Expedition was besieged
+by pinching hunger from which they suffered; they had recourse to the
+wild fruits which some parts of the country furnished. At intervals
+the condition of the hard-pressed band was made worse by the heartless
+desertion of some of its members, who more than once departed with the
+Doctor's personal kit, changes of clothes, linen, &c. With more or less
+misfortunes constantly dogging his footsteps, he traversed in safety the
+countries of the Babisa, Bobemba, Barungu, Ba-ulungu, and Lunda.
+
+In the country of Lunda lives the famous Cazembe, who was first made
+known to Europeans by Dr. Lacerda, the Portuguese traveller. Cazembe
+is a most intelligent prince; he is a tall, stalwart man, who wears
+a peculiar kind of dress, made of crimson print, in the form of
+a prodigious kilt. In this state dress, King Cazembe received Dr.
+Livingstone, surrounded by his chiefs and body-guards. A chief, who had
+been deputed by the King and elders to discover all about the white man,
+then stood up before the assembly, and in a loud voice gave the result
+of the inquiry he had instituted. He had heard that the white man had
+come to look for waters, for rivers, and seas; though he could not
+understand what the white man could want with such things, he had no
+doubt that the object was good. Then Cazembe asked what the Doctor
+proposed doing, and where he thought of going. The Doctor replied that
+he had thought of proceeding south, as he had heard of lakes and rivers
+being in that direction. Cazembe asked, "What can you want to go there
+for? The water is close here. There is plenty of large water in this
+neighbourhood." Before breaking up the assembly, Cazembe gave orders to
+let the white man go where he would through his country undisturbed and
+unmolested. He was the first Englishman he had seen, he said, and he
+liked him.
+
+Shortly after his introduction to the King, the Queen entered the large
+house, surrounded by a body-guard of Amazons with spears. She was a
+fine, tall, handsome young woman, and evidently thought she was about
+to make an impression upon the rustic white man, for she had clothed
+herself after a most royal fashion, and was armed with a ponderous
+spear. But her appearance--so different from what the Doctor had
+imagined--caused him to laugh, which entirely spoiled the effect
+intended; for the laugh of the Doctor was so contagious, that she
+herself was the first to imitate it, and the Amazons, courtier-like,
+followed suit. Much disconcerted by this, the Queen ran back, followed
+by her obedient damsels--a retreat most undignified and unqueenlike,
+compared with her majestic advent into the Doctor's presence. But
+Livingstone will have much to say about his reception at this court, and
+about this interesting King and Queen; and who can so well relate the
+scenes he witnessed, and which belong exclusively to him, as he himself?
+
+Soon after his arrival in the country of Lunda, or Londa, and before he
+had entered the district ruled over by Cazembe, he had crossed a river
+called the Chambezi, which was quite an important stream. The similarity
+of the name with that large and noble river south, which will be for
+ever connected with his name, misled Livingstone at that time, and he,
+accordingly, did not pay to it the attention it deserved, believing that
+the Chambezi was but the head-waters of the Zambezi, and consequently
+had no bearing or connection with the sources of the river of Egypt, of
+which he was in search. His fault was in relying too implicitly upon
+the correctness of Portuguese information. This error it cost him many
+months of tedious labour and travel to rectify.
+
+From the beginning of 1867--the time of his arrival at Cazembe's--till
+the middle of March, 1869--the time of his arrival at Ujiji--he was
+mostly engaged in correcting the errors and misrepresentations of
+the Portuguese travellers. The Portuguese, in speaking of the River
+Chambezi, invariably spoke of it as "our own Zambezi,"--that is,
+the Zambezi which flows through the Portuguese possessions of the
+Mozambique. "In going to Cazembe from Nyassa," said they, "you will
+cross our own Zambezi." Such positive and reiterated information--given
+not only orally, but in their books and maps--was naturally confusing.
+When the Doctor perceived that what he saw and what they described were
+at variance, out of a sincere wish to be correct, and lest he might
+have been mistaken himself, he started to retravel the ground he had
+travelled before. Over and over again he traversed the several countries
+watered by the several rivers of the complicated water system, like an
+uneasy spirit. Over and over again he asked the same questions from
+the different peoples he met, until he was obliged to desist, lest they
+might say, "The man is mad; he has got water on the brain!"
+
+But his travels and tedious labours in Lunda and the adjacent countries
+have established beyond doubt--first, that the Chambezi is a totally
+distinct river from the Zambezi of the Portuguese; and, secondly, that
+the Chambezi, starting from about latitude 11 degrees south, is no
+other than the most southerly feeder of the great Nile; thus giving that
+famous river a length of over 2,000 miles of direct latitude; making it,
+second to the Mississippi, the longest river in the world. The real and
+true name of the Zambezi is Dombazi. When Lacerda and his Portuguese
+successors, coming to Cazembe, crossed the Chambezi, and heard its
+name, they very naturally set it down as "our own Zambezi," and, without
+further inquiry, sketched it as running in that direction.
+
+During his researches in that region, so pregnant in discoveries,
+Livingstone came to a lake lying north-east of Cazembe, which the
+natives call Liemba, from the country of that name which bordered it on
+the east and south. In tracing the lake north, he found it to be none
+other than the Tanganika, or the south-eastern extremity of it, which
+looks, on the Doctor's map, very much like an outline of Italy. The
+latitude of the southern end of this great body of water is about 8
+degrees 42 minutes south, which thus gives it a length, from north to
+south, of 360 geographical miles. From the southern extremity of the
+Tanganika he crossed Marungu, and came in sight of Lake Moero. Tracing
+this lake, which is about sixty miles in length, to its southern head,
+he found a river, called the Luapula, entering it from that direction.
+Following the Luapula south, he found it issue from the large lake
+of Bangweolo, which is nearly as large in superficial area as the
+Tanganika. In exploring for the waters which discharged themselves into
+the lake, he found that by far the most important of these feeders was
+the Chambezi; so that he had thus traced the Chambezi from its source to
+Lake Bangweolo, and the issue from its northern head, under the name of
+Luapula, and found it enter Lake Moero. Again he returned to Cazembe's,
+well satisfied that the river running north through three degrees of
+latitude could not be the river running south under the name of Zambezi,
+though there might be a remarkable resemblance in their names.
+
+At Cazembe's he found an old white-bearded half-caste named Mohammed bin
+Sali, who was kept as a kind of prisoner at large by the King because
+of certain suspicious circumstances attending his advent and stay in the
+country. Through Livingstone's influence Mohammed bin Sali obtained
+his release. On the road to Ujiji he had bitter cause to regret having
+exerted himself in the half-caste's behalf. He turned out to be a most
+ungrateful wretch, who poisoned the minds of the Doctor's few followers,
+and ingratiated himself with them by selling the favours of his
+concubines to them, by which he reduced them to a kind of bondage under
+him. The Doctor was deserted by all but two, even faithful Susi and
+Chumah deserted him for the service of Mohammed bin Sali. But they soon
+repented, and returned to their allegiance. From the day he had the
+vile old man in his company manifold and bitter misfortunes followed the
+Doctor up to his arrival at Ujiji in March, 1869.
+
+From the date of his arrival until the end of June, 1869, he remained
+at Ujiji, whence he dated those letters which, though the outside
+world still doubted his being alive, satisfied the minds of the Royal
+Geographical people, and his intimate friends, that he still existed,
+and that Musa'a tale was the false though ingenious fabrication of a
+cowardly deserter. It was during this time that the thought occurred to
+him of sailing around the Lake Tanganika, but the Arabs and natives were
+so bent upon fleecing him that, had he undertaken it, the remainder
+or his goods would not have enabled him to explore the central line of
+drainage, the initial point of which he found far south of Cazembe's in
+about latitude 11 degrees, in the river called Chambezi.
+
+In the days when tired Captain Burton was resting in Ujiji, after his
+march from the coast near Zanzibar, the land to which Livingstone, on
+his departure from Ujiji, bent his steps was unknown to the Arabs save
+by vague report. Messrs. Burton and Speke never heard of it, it seems.
+Speke, who was the geographer of Burton's Expedition, heard of a place
+called Urua, which he placed on his map, according to the general
+direction indicated by the Arabs; but the most enterprising of the
+Arabs, in their search after ivory, only touched the frontiers of Rua,
+as, the natives and Livingstone call it; for Rua is an immense country,
+with a length of six degrees of latitude, and as yet an undefined
+breadth from east to west.
+
+At the end of June, 1869, Livingstone quitted Ujiji and crossed over
+to Uguhha, on the western shore, for his last and greatest series of
+explorations; the result of which was the further discovery of a lake
+of considerable magnitude connected with Moero by the large river called
+the Lualaba, and which was a continuation of the chain of lakes he had
+previously discovered.
+
+From the port of Uguhha he set off, in company with a body of traders,
+in an almost direct westerly course, for the country of Urua. Fifteen
+days' march brought them to Bambarre, the first important ivory depot
+in Manyema, or, as the natives pronounce it, Manyuema. For nearly
+six months he was detained at Bambarre from ulcers in the feet, which
+discharged bloody ichor as soon as he set them on the ground. When
+recovered, he set off in a northerly direction, and after several days
+came to a broad lacustrine river, called the Lualaba, flowing northward
+and westward, and in some places southward, in a most confusing way.
+The river was from one to three miles broad. By exceeding pertinacity he
+contrived to follow its erratic course, until he saw the Lualaba enter
+the narrow, long lake of Kamolondo, in about latitude 6 degrees 30
+minutes. Retracing this to the south, he came to the point where he had
+seen the Luapula enter Lake Moero.
+
+One feels quite enthusiastic when listening to Livingstone's description
+of the beauties of Moero scenery. Pent in on all sides by high
+mountains, clothed to the edges with the rich vegetation of the tropics,
+the Moero discharges its superfluous waters through a deep rent in the
+bosom of the mountains. The impetuous and grand river roars through
+the chasm with the thunder of a cataract, but soon after leaving its
+confined and deep bed it expands into the calm and broad Lualaba,
+stretching over miles of ground. After making great bends west and
+south-west, and then curving northward, it enters Kamolondo. By
+the natives it is called the Lualaba, but the Doctor, in order to
+distinguish it from other rivers of the same name, has given it the name
+of "Webb's River," after Mr. Webb, the wealthy proprietor of Newstead
+Abbey, whom the Doctor distinguishes as one of his oldest and most
+consistent friends. Away to the south-west from Kamolondo is another
+large lake, which discharges its waters by the important River Loeki, or
+Lomami, into the great Lualaba. To this lake, known as Chebungo by
+the natives, Dr. Livingstone has given the name of "Lincoln," to be
+hereafter distinguished on maps and in books as Lake Lincoln, in memory
+of Abraham Lincoln, our murdered President. This was done from the vivid
+impression produced on his mind by hearing a portion of his inauguration
+speech read from an English pulpit, which related to the causes that
+induced him to issue his Emancipation Proclamation, by which memorable
+deed 4,000,000 of slaves were for ever freed. To the memory of the man
+whose labours on behalf of the negro race deserves the commendation of
+all good men, Livingstone has contributed a monument more durable than
+brass or stone.
+
+Entering Webb's River from the south-south-west, a little north of
+Kamolondo, is a large river called Lufira, but the streams, that
+discharge themselves from the watershed into the Lualaba are so numerous
+that the Doctor's map would not contain them, so he has left all out
+except the most important. Continuing his way north, tracing the Lualaba
+through its manifold and crooked curves as far as latitude 4 degrees
+south, he came to where he heard of another lake, to the north, into
+which it ran. But here you may come to a dead halt, and read what lies
+beyond this spot thus.... This was the furthermost point, whence he was
+compelled to return on the weary road to Ujiji, a distance of 700 miles.
+
+In this brief sketch of Dr. Livingstone's wonderful travels it is to be
+hoped the most superficial reader, as well as the student of geography,
+comprehends this grand system of lakes connected together by Webb's
+River. To assist him, let him glance at the map accompanying this book.
+He will then have a fair idea of what Dr. Livingstone has been doing
+during these long years, and what additions he has made to the study of
+African geography. That this river, distinguished under several titles,
+flowing from one lake into another in a northerly direction, with all
+its great crooked bends and sinuosities, is the Nile--the true Nile--the
+Doctor has not the least doubt. For a long time he entertained great
+scepticism, because of its deep bends and curves west, and south-west
+even; but having traced it from its head waters, the Chambezi, through
+7 degrees of latitude--that is, from 11 degrees S. to lat. 4 degrees
+N.--he has been compelled to come to the conclusion that it can be no
+other river than the Nile. He had thought it was the Congo; but has
+discovered the sources of the Congo to be the Kassai and the Kwango, two
+rivers which rise on the western side of the Nile watershed, in about
+the latitude of Bangweolo; and he was told of another river called the
+Lubilash, which rose from the north, and ran west. But the Lualaba, the
+Doctor thinks, cannot be the Congo, from its great size and body,
+and from its steady and continued flow northward through a broad and
+extensive valley, bounded by enormous mountains westerly and easterly.
+The altitude of the most northerly point to which the Doctor traced the
+wonderful river was a little in excess of 2,000 feet; so that, though
+Baker makes out his lake to be 2,700 feet above the sea, yet the Bahr
+Ghazal, through which Petherick's branch of the White Nile issues into
+the Nile, is but 2,000 feet; in which case there is a possibility that
+the Lualaba may be none other than Petherick's branch.
+
+It is well known that trading stations for ivory have been established
+for about 500 miles up Petherick's branch. We must remember this fact
+when told that Gondokoro, in lat. 4 degrees N., is 2,000 feet above the
+sea, and lat. 4 degrees S., where the halt was made, is only a little
+over 2,000 feet above the sea. That the two rivers said to be 2,000 feet
+above the sea, separated from each other by 8 degrees of latitude, are
+one and the same river, may among some men be regarded as a startling
+statement. But we must restrain mere expressions of surprise, and take
+into consideration that this mighty and broad Lualaba is a lacustrine
+river broader than the Mississippi; that at intervals the body of water
+forms extensive lakes; then, contracting into a broad river, it again
+forms a lake, and so on, to lat. 4 degrees; and even beyond this point
+the Doctor hears of a large lake again north.
+
+We must wait also until the altitudes of the two rivers, the Lualaba,
+where the Doctor halted, and the southern point on the Bahr Ghazal,
+where Petherick has been, are known with perfect accuracy.
+
+Now, for the sake of argument, suppose we give this nameless lake a
+length of 6 degrees of latitude, as it may be the one discovered by
+Piaggia, the Italian traveller, from which Petherick's branch of the
+White Nile issues out through reedy marshes, into the Bahr Ghazal,
+thence into the White Nile, south of Gondokoro. By this method we can
+suppose the rivers one; for if the lake extends over so many degrees of
+latitude, the necessity of explaining the differences of altitude that
+must naturally exist between two points of a river 8 degrees of latitude
+apart, would be obviated.
+
+Also, Livingstone's instruments for observation and taking altitudes
+may have been in error; and this is very likely to have been the case,
+subjected as they have been to rough handling during nearly six years
+of travel. Despite the apparent difficulty of the altitude, there is
+another strong reason for believing Webb's River, or the Lualaba, to be
+the Nile. The watershed of this river, 600 miles of which Livingstone
+has travelled, is drained from a valley which lies north and south
+between lofty eastern and western ranges.
+
+This valley, or line of drainage, while it does not receive the Kassai
+and the Kwango, receives rivers flowing from a great distance west, for
+instance, the important tributaries Lufira and Lomami, and large
+rivers from the east, such as the Lindi and Luamo; and, while the most
+intelligent Portuguese travellers and traders state that the Kassai, the
+Kwango, and Lubilash are the head waters of the Congo River, no one
+has yet started the supposition that the grand river flowing north, and
+known by the natives as the Lualaba, is the Congo.
+
+This river may be the Congo, or, perhaps, the Niger. If the Lualaba is
+only 2,000 feet above the sea, and the Albert N'Yanza 2,700 feet, the
+Lualaba cannot enter that lake. If the Bahr Ghazal does not extend by
+an arm for eight degrees above Gondokoro, then the Lualaba cannot be the
+Nile. But it would be premature to dogmatise on the subject. Livingstone
+will clear up the point himself; and if he finds it to be the Congo,
+will be the first to admit his error.
+
+Livingstone admits the Nile sources have not been found, though he has
+traced the Lualaba through seven degrees of latitude flowing north; and,
+though he has not a particle of doubt of its being the Nile, not yet can
+the Nile question be said to be resolved and ended. For two reasons:
+
+1. He has heard of the existence of four fountains, two of which gave
+birth to a river flowing north, Webb's River, or the Lualaba, and to a
+river flowing south, which is the Zambezi. He has repeatedly heard of
+these fountains from the natives. Several times he has been within 100
+and 200 miles from them, but something always interposed to prevent his
+going to see them. According to those who have seen them, they rise on
+either side of a mound or level, which contains no stones. Some have
+called it an ant-hill. One of these fountains is said to be so large
+that a man, standing on one side, cannot be seen from the other. These
+fountains must be discovered, and their position taken. The Doctor does
+not suppose them to be south of the feeders of Lake Bangweolo. In his
+letter to the 'Herald' he says "These four full-grown gushing fountains,
+rising so near each other, and giving origin to four large rivers,
+answer in a certain degree to the description given of the unfathomable
+fountains of the Nile, by the secretary of Minerva, in the city of Sais,
+in Egypt, to the father of all travellers--Herodotus."
+
+For the information of such readers as may not have the original at
+hand, I append the following from Cary's translation of Herodotus:
+(II.28)
+
+(Jul 2001 The History of Herodotus V1 by Herodotus; Macaulay)
+
+
+***  With respect to the sources of the Nile, no man of all the
+  Egyptians, Libyans, or Grecians, with whom I have conversed,
+  ever pretended to know anything, except the registrar* of Minerva's
+
+*the secretary of the treasury of the goddess Neith, or Athena as
+Herodotus calls her: ho grammatiste:s to:n hiro:n xre:mato:n te:s
+Athe:naie:s>
+
+  treasury at Sais, in Egypt.  He, indeed, seemed to be trifling
+  with me when he said he knew perfectly well; yet his account was
+  as follows: "That there are two mountains, rising into a sharp
+  peak, situated between the city of Syene, in Thebais, and
+  Elephantine.  The names of these mountains are the one Crophi,
+  the other Mophi; that the sources of the Nile, which are bottomless,
+  flow from between these mountains and that half of the water flows
+  over Egypt and to the north, the other half over Ethiopia and the
+  south.  That the fountains of the Nile are bottomless, he said,
+  Psammitichus, king of Egypt, proved by experiment: for, having
+  caused a line to be twisted many thousand fathoms in length, he
+  let it down, but could not find a bottom."  Such, then, was the
+  opinion the registrar gave, if, indeed, he spoke the real truth;
+  proving, in my opinion, that there are strong whirlpools and an
+  eddy here, so that the water beating against the rocks, a
+  sounding-line, when let down, cannot reach the bottom.  I was
+  unable to learn anything more from any one else.  But thus much
+  I learnt by carrying my researches as far as possible, having gone
+  and made my own observations as far as Elephantine, and beyond
+  that obtaining information from hearsay.  As one ascends the river,
+  above the city of Elephantine, the country is steep; here,
+  therefore; it is necessary to attach a rope on both sides of a boat,
+  as one does with an ox in a plough, and so proceed; but if
+  the rope should happen to break, the boat is carried away by the
+  force of the stream.  This kind of country lasts for a four-days'
+  passage, and the Nile here winds as much as the Maeander.  There
+  are twelve schoeni, which it is necessary to sail through in
+  this manner; and after that you will come to a level plain, where
+  the Nile flows round an island; its name is Tachompso.  Ethiopians
+  inhabit the country immediately above Elephantine, and one half
+  of the island; the other half is inhabited by Egyptians.  Near to
+  this island lies a vast lake, on the borders of which Ethiopian
+  nomades dwell.  After sailing through this lake you will come to
+  the channel of the Nile, which flows into it: then you will have
+  to land and travel forty days by the side of the river, for sharp
+  rocks rise in the Nile, and there are many sunken ones, through
+  which it is not possible to navigate a boat.  Having passed this
+  country in the forty days, you must go on board another boat, and
+  sail for twelve days; and then you will arrive at a large city,
+  called Meroe; this city is said to be the capital of all
+  Ethiopia.  The inhabitants worship no other gods than Jupiter and
+  Bacchus; but these they honour with great magnificence.  They
+  have also an oracle of Jupiter; and they make war whenever that
+  god bids them by an oracular warning, and against whatever
+  country he bids them.  Sailing from this city, you will arrive at
+  the country of the Automoli, in a space of time equal to that
+  which you took in coming from Elephantine to the capital of the
+  Ethiopians.  These Automoli are called by the name of Asmak,
+  which, in the language of Greece, signifies "those that stand at
+  the left hand of the king."  These, to the number of two hundred and
+  forty thousand of the Egyptian war-tribe, revolted to the
+  Ethiopians on the following occasion.  In the reign of King
+  Psammitichus garrisons were stationed at Elephantine against the
+  Ethiopians, and another at the Pelusian Daphnae against the
+  Arabians and Syrians, and another at Marea against Libya; and even
+  in my time garrisons of the Persians are stationed in the same
+  places as they were in the time of Psammitichus, for they
+  maintain guards at Elephantine and Daphnae.  Now, these Egyptians,
+  after they had been on duty three years, were not relieved;
+  therefore, having consulted together and come to an unanimous
+  resolution, they all revolted from Psammitichus, and went to
+  Ethiopia.  Psammitichus, hearing of this, pursued them; and when
+  he overtook them he entreated them by many arguments, and adjured
+  them not to forsake the gods of their fathers, and their
+  children and wives But one of them is reported to have uncovered
+  [        ] and to have said, that wheresoever these were there they
+
+["which it is said that one of them pointed to his privy member and
+said that wherever this was, there would they have both children and
+wives"--Macaulay tr.; published edition censors]
+
+  should find both children and wives."  These men, when they arrived
+  in Ethiopia, offered their services to the king of the Ethiopians,
+  who made them the following recompense.  There were certain
+  Ethiopians disaffected towards him; these he bade them expel,
+  and take possession of their land.  By the settlement of these men
+  among the Ethiopians, the Ethiopians became more civilized, and
+  learned the manners of the Egyptians.
+
+  Now, for a voyage and land journey of four months, the Nile is
+  known, in addition to the part f the stream that is in Egypt; for,
+  upon computation, so many months are known to be spent by a
+  person who travels from Elephantine to the Automoli.  This river
+  flows from the west and the setting of the sun; but beyond this no
+  one is able to speak with certainty, for the rest of the country
+  is desert by reason of the excessive heat.  But I have heard the
+  following account from certain Cyrenaeans, who say that they went
+  to the oracle of Ammon, and had a conversation with Etearchus, King
+  of the Ammonians, and that, among other subjects, they happened to
+  discourse about the Nile--that nobody knew its sources; whereupon
+  Etearchus said that certain Nasamonians once came to him--this
+  nation is Lybian, and inhabits the Syrtis, and the country for no
+  great distance eastward of the Syrtis--and that when these
+  Nasamonians arrived, and were asked if they could give any
+  further formation touching the deserts of Libya, they answered,
+  that there were some daring youths amongst them, sons of powerful
+  men; and that they, having reached man's estate, formed many
+  other extravagant plans, and, moreover, chose five of their number
+  by lot to explore the deserts of Libya, to see if they could make
+  any further discovery than those who had penetrated the farthest.
+  (For, as respects the parts of Libya along the Northern Sea,
+  beginning from Egypt to the promontory of Solois, where is the
+  extremity of Libya, Libyans and various nations of Libyans reach
+  all along it, except those parts which are occupied by Grecians
+  and Phoenicians; but as respects the parts above the sea, and
+  those nations which reach down to the sea, in the upper parts
+  Libya is infested by wild beasts; and all beyond that is sand,
+  dreadfully short of water, and utterly desolate.)  They further
+  related, "that when the young men deputed by their companions
+  set out, well furnished with water and provisions, they passed
+  first through the inhabited country; and having traversed this,
+  they came to the region infested by wild beasts; and after this
+  they crossed the desert, making their way towards the west; and
+  when they had traversed much sandy ground, during a journey of
+  many days, they at length saw some trees growing in a plain; and
+  that they approached and began to gather the fruit that grew on
+  the trees; and while they were gathering, some diminutive men,
+  less than men of middle stature, came up, and having seized them
+  carried them away; and that the Nasamonians did not at all understand
+  their language, nor those who carried them off the language of
+  the Nasamonians.  However, they conducted them through vast
+  morasses, and when they had passed these, they came to a city in
+  which all the inhabitants were of the same size as their conductors,
+  and black in colour: and by the city flowed a great river, running
+  from the west to the east, and that crocodiles were seen in it."
+  Thus far I have set forth the account of Etearchus the Ammonian;
+  to which may be added, as the Cyrenaeans assured me, "that he said
+  the Nasamonians all returned safe to their own country, and that
+  the men whom they came to were all necromancers."  Etearchus also
+  conjectured that this river, which flows by their city, is the Nile;
+  and reason so evinces: for the Nile flows from Libya, and intersects
+  it in the middle; and (as I conjecture, inferring things unknown
+  from things known) it sets out from a point corresponding with the
+  Ister.  For the Ister, beginning from the Celts, and the city of
+  Pyrene, divides Europe in its course; but the Celts are beyond
+  the pillars of Hercules, and border on the territories of the
+  Cynesians, who lie in the extremity of Europe to the westward;
+  and the Ister terminates by flowing through all Europe into the
+  Euxine Sea, where a Milesian colony is settled in Istria.  Now
+  the Ister, as it flows through a well-peopled country, is generally
+  known; but no one is able to speak about the sources of the Nile,
+  because Libya, through which it flows, is uninhabited and desolate.
+  Respecting this stream, therefore, as far as I was able to reach by
+  inquiry, I have already spoken.  It however discharges itself into
+  Egypt; and Egypt lies, as near as may be, opposite to the
+  mountains of Cilicia; from whence to Sinope, on the Euxine Sea,
+  is a five days' journey in a straight line to an active man; and
+  Sinope is opposite to the Ister, where it discharges itself into
+  the sea.  So I think that the Nile, traversing the whole of Libya,
+  may be properly compared with the Ister.  Such, then, is the
+  account that I am able to give respecting the Nile.
+  *** <end of Herodotus's account) ***
+
+2. Webb's River must be traced to its connection with some portion of
+the old Nile.
+
+When these two things have been accomplished, then, and not till then,
+can the mystery of the Nile be explained. The two countries through
+which the marvellous lacustrine river, the Lualaba, flows, with its
+manifold lakes and broad expanse of water, are Rua (the Uruwwa of Speke)
+and Manyuema. For the first time Europe is made aware that between
+the Tanganika and the known sources of the Congo there exist teeming
+millions of the negro race, who never saw, or heard of the white people
+who make such a noisy and busy stir outside of Africa. Upon the minds
+of those who had the good fortune to see the first specimen of these
+remarkable white races in Dr. Livingstone, he seems to have made a
+favourable impression, though, through misunderstanding his object, and
+coupling him with the Arabs, who make horrible work there, his life
+was sought after more than once. These two extensive countries, Rua
+and Manyuema, are populated by true heathens, governed, not as the
+sovereignties of Karagwah, Urundi, and Uganda, by despotic kings, but
+each village by its own sultan or lord. Thirty miles outside of their
+own immediate settlements, the most intelligent of these small chiefs
+seem to know nothing. Thirty miles from the Lualaba, there were but few
+people who had ever heard of the great river. Such ignorance among
+the natives of their own country naturally increased the labours of
+Livingstone. Compared with these, all tribes and nations in Africa with
+whom Livingstone came in contact may be deemed civilized, yet, in
+the arts of home manufacture, these wild people of Manyuema were far
+superior to any he had seen. Where other tribes and nations contented
+themselves with hides and skins of animals thrown negligently over their
+shoulders, the people of Manyuema manufactured a cloth from fine grass,
+which may favorably compare with the finest grass cloth of India. They
+also know the art of dyeing them in various colours--black, yellow,
+and purple. The Wangwana, or freed-men of Zanzibar, struck with the
+beauty of the fabric, eagerly exchange their cotton cloths for fine
+grass cloth; and on almost every black man from Manyuema I have seen
+this native cloth converted into elegantly made damirs (Arabic)--short
+jackets. These countries are also very rich in ivory. The fever for
+going to Manyuema to exchange tawdry beads for its precious tusks is
+of the same kind as that which impelled men to go to the gulches and
+placers of California, Colorado, Montana, and Idaho; after nuggets to
+Australia, and diamonds to Cape Colony. Manyuema is at present the El
+Dorado of the Arab and the Wamrima tribes. It is only about four years
+since that the first Arab returned from Manyuema, with such wealth of
+ivory, and reports about the fabulous quantities found there, that ever
+since the old beaten tracks of Karagwah, Uganda, Ufipa, and Marungu have
+been comparatively deserted. The people of Manyuema, ignorant of the
+value of the precious article, reared their huts upon ivory stanchions.
+Ivory pillars were common sights in Manyuema, and, hearing of these, one
+can no longer, wonder at the ivory palace of Solomon. For generations
+they have used ivory tusks as door-posts and supports to the eaves,
+until they had become perfectly rotten and worthless. But the advent of
+the Arabs soon taught them the value of the article. It has now risen
+considerably in price, though still fabulously cheap. At Zanzibar
+the value of ivory per frasilah of 35 lbs. weight is from $50 to $60,
+according to its quality. In Unyanyembe it is about $1-10 per pound, but
+in Manyuema, it may be purchased for from half a cent to 14 cent's worth
+of copper per pound of ivory. The Arabs, however, have the knack of
+spoiling markets by their rapacity and cruelty. With muskets, a small
+party of Arabs is invincible against such people as those of Manyuema,
+who, until lately, never heard the sound of a gun. The discharge of a
+musket inspires mortal terror in them, and it is almost impossible to
+induce them to face the muzzle of a gun. They believe that the Arabs
+have stolen the lightning, and that against such people the bow and
+arrow can have little effect. They are by no means devoid of courage,
+and they have often declared that, were it not for the guns, not one
+Arab would leave the country alive; this tends to prove that they would
+willingly engage in fight with the strangers who had made themselves
+so detestable, were it not that the startling explosion of gunpowder
+inspires them with terror.
+
+Into what country soever the Arabs enter, they contrive to render their
+name and race abominated. But the mainspring of it all is not the Arab's
+nature, colour, or name, but simply the slave-trade. So long as the
+slave-trade is permitted to be kept up at Zanzibar, so long will these
+otherwise enterprising people, the Arabs, kindle gainst them the hatred
+of the natives throughout Africa.
+
+On the main line of travel from Zanzibar into the interior of Africa
+these acts of cruelty are unknown, for the very good reason that
+the natives having been armed with guns, and taught how to use those
+weapons, are by no means loth to do so whenever an opportunity presents
+itself. When, too late, they have perceived their folly in selling guns
+to the natives, the Arabs now begin to vow vengeance on the person who
+will in future sell a gun to a native. But they are all guilty of the
+same mistake, and it is strange they did not perceive that it was folly
+when they were doing so.
+
+In former days the Arab, when protected by his slave escort, armed with
+guns, could travel through Useguhha, Urori, Ukonongo, Ufipa, Karagwah,
+Unyoro, and Uganda, with only a stick in his hand; now, however, it is
+impossible for him or any one else to do so. Every step he takes, armed
+or unarmed, is fraught with danger. The Waseguhha, near the coast,
+detain him, and demand the tribute, or give him the option of war;
+entering Ugogo, he is subjected every day to the same oppressive demand,
+or to the fearful alternative. The Wanyamwezi also show their readiness
+to take the same advantage; the road to Karagwah is besieged with
+difficulties; the terrible Mirambo stands in the way, defeats their
+combined forces with ease, and makes raids even to the doors of their
+houses in Unyanyembe; and should they succeed in passing Mirambo, a
+chief--Swaruru--stands before them who demands tribute by the bale, and
+against whom it is useless to contend.
+
+These remarks have reference to the slave-trade inaugurated in Manyuema
+by the Arabs. Harassed on the road between Zanzibar and Unyanyembe
+by minatory natives, who with bloody hands are ready to avenge the
+slightest affront, the Arabs have refrained from kidnapping between the
+Tanganika and the sea; but in Manyuema, where the natives are timid,
+irresolute, and divided into small weak tribes, they recover their
+audacity, and exercise their kidnapping propensities unchecked.
+
+The accounts which the Doctor brings from that new region are most
+deplorable. He was an unwilling spectator of a horrible deed--a massacre
+committed on the inhabitants of a populous district who had assembled
+in the market-place on the banks of the Lualaba, as they had been
+accustomed to do for ages. It seems that the Wamanyuema are very fond of
+marketing, believing it to be the summum bonum of human enjoyment. They
+find endless pleasure in chaffering with might and main for the least
+mite of their currency--the last bead; and when they gain the point to
+which their peculiar talents are devoted, they feel intensely happy.
+The women are excessively fond of this marketing, and, as they are very
+beautiful, the market place must possess considerable attractions for
+the male sex. It was on such a day amidst such a scene, that Tagamoyo,
+a half-caste Arab, with his armed slave escort, commenced an
+indiscriminate massacre by firing volley after volley into the dense
+mass of human beings. It is supposed that there were about 2,000
+present, and at the first sound of the firing these poor people all made
+a rush for their canoes. In the fearful hurry to avoid being shot, the
+canoes were paddled away by the first fortunate few who got possession
+of them; those that were not so fortunate sprang into the deep waters
+of the Lualaba, and though many of them became an easy prey to the
+voracious crocodiles which swarmed to the scene, the majority received
+their deaths from the bullets of the merciless Tagamoyo and his
+villanous band. The Doctor believes, as do the Arabs themselves, that
+about 400 people, mostly women and children, lost their lives, while
+many more were made slaves. This outrage is only one of many such he has
+unwillingly witnessed, and he is utterly unable to describe the feelings
+of loathing he feels for the inhuman perpetrators.
+
+Slaves from Manyuema command a higher price than those of any other
+country, because of their fine forms and general docility. The women,
+the Doctor said repeatedly, are remarkably pretty creatures, and have
+nothing, except the hair, in common with the negroes of the West
+Coast. They are of very light colour, have fine noses, well-cut and not
+over-full lips, while the prognathous jaw is uncommon. These women are
+eagerly sought after as wives by the half-castes of the East Coast, and
+even the pure Omani Arabs do not disdain to take them in marriage.
+
+To the north of Manyuema, Livingstone came to the light-complexioned
+race, of the colour of Portuguese, or our own Louisiana quadroons,
+who are very fine people, and singularly remarkable for commercial
+"'cuteness" and sagacity. The women are expert divers for oysters, which
+are found in great abundance in the Lualaba.
+
+Rua, at a place called Katanga, is rich in copper. The copper-mines of
+this place have been worked for ages. In the bed of a stream, gold has
+been found, washed down in pencil-shaped pieces or in particles as large
+as split peas. Two Arabs have gone thither to prospect for this metal;
+but, as they are ignorant of the art of gulch-mining, it is scarcely
+possible that they will succeed. From these highly important and
+interesting discoveries, Dr. Livingstone was turned back, when almost
+on the threshold of success, by the positive refusal of his men to
+accompany him further. They were afraid to go on unless accompanied by
+a large force of men; and, as these were not procurable in Manyuema, the
+Doctor reluctantly turned his face towards Ujiji.
+
+It was a long and weary road back. The journey had now no interest for
+him. He had travelled the road before when going westward, full of high
+hopes and aspirations, impatient to reach the goal which promised
+him rest from his labors--now, returning unsuccessful, baffled, and
+thwarted, when almost in sight of the end, and having to travel the same
+path back on foot, with disappointed expectations and defeated hopes
+preying on his mind, no wonder that the old brave spirit almost
+succumbed, and the strong constitution almost went to wreck.
+
+Livingstone arrived at Ujiji, October 16th, almost at death's door. On
+the way he had been trying to cheer himself up, since he had found it
+impossible to contend against the obstinacy of his men, with, "It won't
+take long; five or six months more; it matters not since it cannot be
+helped. I have got my goods in Ujiji, and can hire other people, and
+make a new start again." These are the words and hopes by which he tried
+to delude himself into the idea that all would be right yet; but imagine
+the shock he must have suffered, when he found that the man to whom was
+entrusted his goods for safe keeping had sold every bale for ivory.
+
+The evening of the day Livingstone had returned to Ujiji, Susi and
+Chuma, two of his most faithful men, were seen crying bitterly. The
+Doctor asked of them what ailed them, and was then informed, for the
+first time, of the evil tidings that awaited him.
+
+Said they, "All our things are sold, sir; Sherif has sold everything for
+ivory."
+
+Later in the evening, Sherif came to see him, and shamelessly offered
+his hand, but Livingstone repulsed him, saying he could not shake hands
+with a thief. As an excuse, Sherif said he had divined on the Koran, and
+that this had told him the Hakim (Arabic for Doctor) was dead.
+
+Livingstone was now destitute; he had just enough to keep him and his
+men alive for about a month, when he would be forced to beg from the
+Arabs.
+
+The Doctor further stated, that when Speke gives the altitude of the
+Tanganika at only 1,800 feet above the sea, Speke must have fallen into
+that error by a frequent writing of the Anne Domini, a mere slip of
+the pen; for the altitude, as he makes it out, is 2,800 feet by boiling
+point, and a little over 3,000 feet by barometer.
+
+The Doctor's complaints were many because slaves were sent to him, in
+charge of goods, after he had so often implored the people at Zanzibar
+to send him freemen. A very little effort on the part of those entrusted
+with the despatch of supplies to him might have enabled them to procure
+good and faithful freemen; but if they contented themselves, upon the
+receipt of a letter from Dr. Livingstone, with sending to Ludha Damji
+for men, it is no longer a matter of wonder that dishonest and incapable
+slaves were sent forward. It is no new fact that the Doctor has
+discovered when he states that a negro freeman is a hundred times
+more capable and trustworthy than a slave. Centuries ago Eumaeus, the
+herdsman, said to Ulysses:
+
+Jove fixed it certain, that whatever day Makes man a slave, takes half
+his worth away.
+
+We passed several happy days at Ujiji, and it was time we were now
+preparing for our cruise on the Tanganika. Livingstone was improving
+every day under the different diet which my cook furnished him. I could
+give him no such suppers as that which Jupiter and Mercury received at
+the cottage of Baucis and Philemon. We had no berries of chaste Minerva,
+pickled cherries, endive, radishes, dried figs, dates, fragrant apples,
+and grapes; but we had cheese, and butter which I made myself, new-laid
+eggs, chickens, roast mutton, fish from the lake, rich curds and cream,
+wine from the Guinea-palm, egg-plants, cucumbers, sweet potatoes,
+pea-nuts, and beans, white honey from Ukaranga, luscious singwe--a
+plum-like fruit--from the forests of Ujiji, and corn scones and dampers,
+in place of wheaten bread.
+
+During the noontide heats we sat under our veranda discussing our
+various projects, and in the early morning and evening we sought the
+shores of the lake--promenading up and down the beach to breathe the
+cool breezes which ruffled the surface of the water, and rolled the
+unquiet surf far up on the smooth and whitened shore.
+
+It was the dry season, and we had most lovely weather; the temperature
+never was over 80 degrees in the shade.
+
+The market-place overlooking the broad silver water afforded us
+amusement and instruction. Representatives of most of the tribes
+dwelling near the lake were daily found there. There were the
+agricultural and pastoral Wajiji, with their flocks and herds; there
+were the fishermen from Ukaranga and Kaole, from beyond Bangwe, and
+even from Urundi, with their whitebait, which they called dogara, the
+silurus, the perch, and other fish; there were the palm-oil merchants,
+principally from Ujiji and Urundi, with great five-gallon pots full of
+reddish oil, of the consistency of butter; there were the salt merchants
+from the salt-plains of Uvinza and Uhha; there were the ivory merchants
+from Uvira and Usowa; there were the canoe-makers from Ugoma and Urundi;
+there were the cheap-Jack pedlers from Zanzibar, selling flimsy prints,
+and brokers exchanging blue mutunda beads for sami-sami, and sungomazzi,
+and sofi. The sofi beads are like pieces of thick clay-pipe stem
+about half an inch long, and are in great demand here. Here were found
+Waguhha, Wamanyuema, Wagoma, Wavira, Wasige, Warundi, Wajiji, Waha,
+Wavinza, Wasowa, Wangwana, Wakawendi, Arabs, and Wasawahili, engaged in
+noisy chaffer and barter. Bareheaded, and almost barebodied, the youths
+made love to the dark-skinned and woolly-headed Phyllises, who knew not
+how to blush at the ardent gaze of love, as their white sisters; old
+matrons gossiped, as the old women do everywhere; the children played,
+and laughed, and struggled, as children of our own lands; and the old
+men, leaning on their spears or bows, were just as garrulous in the
+Place de Ujiji as aged elders in other climes.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII. -- OUR CRUISE ON THE LAKE TANGANIKA--EXPLORATION OF THE
+NORTH-END OF THE LAKE-- THE RUSIZI IS DISCOVERED TO ENTER INTO THE
+LAKE--RETURN TO UJIJI.
+
+"I distinctly deny that 'any misleading by my instructions from the
+Royal Geographical Society as to the position of the White Nile' made me
+unconscious of the vast importance of ascertaining the direction of
+the Rusizi River. The fact is, we did our best to reach it, and we
+failed."--Burton's Zanzibar.
+
+"The universal testimony of the natives to the Rusizi River being an
+influent is the most conclusive argument that it does run out of the
+lake."--Speke.
+
+"I therefore claim for Lake Tanganika the honour of being the
+SOUTHERNMOST RESERVOIR OF THE NILE, until some more positive evidence,
+by actual observation, shall otherwise determine it."--Findlay, R.G.S.
+
+
+Had Livingstone and myself, after making up our minds to visit the
+northern head of the Lake Tanganika, been compelled by the absurd
+demands or fears of a crew of Wajiji to return to Unyanyembe without
+having resolved the problem of the Rusizi River, we had surely deserved
+to be greeted by everybody at home with a universal giggling and
+cackling. But Capt. Burton's failure to settle it, by engaging Wajiji,
+and that ridiculous savage chief Kannena, had warned us of the negative
+assistance we could expect from such people for the solution of a
+geographical problem. We had enough good sailors with us, who were
+entirely under our commands. Could we but procure the loan of a canoe,
+we thought all might be well.
+
+Upon application to Sayd bin Majid, he at once generously permitted us
+to use his canoe for any service for which we might require it. After
+engaging two Wajiji guides at two doti each, we prepared to sail from
+the port of Ujiji, in about a week or so after my entrance into Ujiji.
+
+I have already stated how it was that the Doctor and I undertook the
+exploration of the northern half of the Tanganika and the River Rusizi,
+about which so much had been said and written.
+
+Before embarking on this enterprise, Dr. Livingstone had not definitely
+made up his mind which course he should take, as his position was truly
+deplorable. His servants consisted of Susi, Chumah, Hamoydah, Gardner,
+and Halimah, the female cook and wife of Hamoydah; to these was added
+Kaif-Halek, the man whom I compelled to follow me from Unyanyembe to
+deliver the Livingstone letters to his master.
+
+Whither could Dr. Livingstone march with these few men, and the few
+table-cloths and beads that remained to him from the store squandered by
+the imbecile Sherif? This was a puzzling question. Had Dr. Livingstone
+been in good health, his usual hardihood and indomitable spirit had
+answered it in a summary way. He might have borrowed some cloth from
+Sayd bin Majid at an exorbitant price, sufficient to bring him to
+Unyanyembe and the sea-coast. But how long would he have been compelled
+to sit down at Ujiji, waiting and waiting for the goods that were said
+to be at Unyanyembe, a prey to high expectations, hoping day after day
+that the war would end--hoping week after week to hear that his goods
+were coming? Who knows how long his weak health had borne up against the
+several disappointments to which he would be subjected?
+
+Though it was with all due deference to Dr. Livingstone's vast
+experience as a traveller, I made bold to suggest the following courses
+to him, either of which he could adopt:
+
+Ist. To go home, and take the rest he so well deserved and, as he
+appeared then, to be so much in need of.
+
+2nd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his goods, and enlist pagazis
+sufficient to enable him to travel anywhere, either to Manyuema or
+Rua, and settle the Nile problem, which he said he was in a fair way of
+doing.
+
+3rd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, enlist men, and try
+to join Sir Samuel Baker, either by going to Muanza, and sailing through
+Ukerewe or Victoria N'Yanza in my boats--which I should put up--to
+Mtesa's palace at Uganda, thus passing by Mirambo and Swaruru of Usui,
+who would rob him if he took the usual caravan road to Uganda; thence
+from Mtesa to Kamrasi, King of Unyoro, where he would of course hear
+of the great white man who was said to be with a large force of men at
+Gondokoro.
+
+4th. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, enlist men, and
+return to Ujiji, and back to Manyuema by way of Uguhha.
+
+5th. To proceed by way of the Rusizi through Ruanda, and so on to Itara,
+Unyoro, and Baker.
+
+For either course, whichever he thought most expedient, I and my men
+would assist him as escort and carriers, to the best of our ability. If
+he should elect to go home, I informed him I should be proud to escort
+him, and consider myself subject to his commands--travelling only when
+he desired, and camping only when he gave the word.
+
+6th. The last course which I suggested to him, was to permit me to
+escort him to Unyanyembe, where he could receive his own goods, and
+where I could deliver up to him a large supply of first-class cloth and
+beads, guns and ammunition, cooking utensils, clothing, boats, tents,
+&c., and where he could rest in a comfortable house, while I would hurry
+down to the coast, organise a new expedition composed of fifty or sixty
+faithful men, well armed, by whom I could send an additional supply of
+needful luxuries in the shape of creature comforts.
+
+After long consideration, he resolved to adopt the last course, as it
+appeared to him to be the most feasible one, and the best, though he did
+not hesitate to comment upon the unaccountable apathy of his agent at
+Zanzibar, which had caused him so much trouble and vexation, and weary
+marching of hundreds of miles.
+
+Our ship--though nothing more than a cranky canoe hollowed out of
+a noble mvule tree of Ugoma--was an African Argo bound on a nobler
+enterprise than its famous Grecian prototype. We were bound upon no
+mercenary errand, after no Golden Fleece, but perhaps to discover a
+highway for commerce which should bring the ships of the Nile up to
+Ujiji, Usowa, and far Marungu. We did not know what we might discover
+on our voyage to the northern head of the Tanganika; we supposed that we
+should find the Rusizi to be an effluent of the Tanganika, flowing down
+to the Albert or the Victoria N'Yanza. We were told by natives and Arabs
+that the Rusizi ran out of the lake.
+
+Sayd bin Majid had stated that his canoe would carry twenty-five men,
+and 3,500 lbs. of ivory. Acting upon this information, we embarked
+twenty-five men, several of whom had stored away bags of salt for the
+purposes of trade with the natives; but upon pushing off from the shore
+near Ujiji, we discovered the boat was too heavily laden, and was down
+to the gunwale. Returning in-shore, we disembarked six men, and unloaded
+the bags of salt, which left us with sixteen rowers, Selim, Ferajji the
+cook, and the two Wajiji guides.
+
+Having thus properly trimmed our boat we again pushed off, and steered
+her head for Bangwe Island, which was distant four or five miles from
+the Bunder of Ujiji. While passing this island the guides informed us
+that the Arabs and Wajiji took shelter on it during an incursion of
+the Watuta--which took place some years ago--when they came and invaded
+Ujiji, and massacred several of the inhabitants. Those who took refuge
+on the island were the only persons who escaped the fire and sword with
+which the Watuta had visited Ujiji.
+
+After passing the island and following the various bends and
+indentations of the shore, we came in sight of the magnificent bay of
+Kigoma, which strikes one at once as being an excellent harbor from the
+variable winds which blow over the Tanganika. About 10 A.M. we drew in
+towards the village of Kigoma, as the east wind was then rising, and
+threatened to drive us to sea. With those travelling parties who are
+not in much hurry Kigoma is always the first port for canoes bound north
+from Ujiji. The next morning at dawn we struck tent, stowed baggage,
+cooked, and drank coffee, and set off northward again.
+
+The lake was quite calm; its waters, of a dark-green colour, reflected
+the serene blue sky above. The hippopotami came up to breathe in
+alarmingly close proximity to our canoe, and then plunged their heads
+again, as if they were playing hide-and-seek with us. Arriving opposite
+the high wooded hills of Bemba, and being a mile from shore, we thought
+it a good opportunity to sound the depth of the water, whose colour
+seemed to indicate great depth. We found thirty-five fathoms at this
+place.
+
+Our canoeing of this day was made close in-shore, with a range of hills,
+beautifully wooded and clothed with green grass, sloping abruptly,
+almost precipitously, into the depths of the fresh-water sea, towering
+immediately above us, and as we rounded the several capes or points,
+roused high expectations of some new wonder, or some exquisite picture
+being revealed as the deep folds disclosed themselves to us. Nor were
+we disappointed. The wooded hills with a wealth of boscage of beautiful
+trees, many of which were in bloom, and crowned with floral glory,
+exhaling an indescribably sweet fragrance, lifting their heads in varied
+contour--one pyramidal, another a truncated cone; one table-topped,
+another ridgy, like the steep roof of a church; one a glorious
+heave with an even outline, another jagged and savage-interested us
+considerably; and the pretty pictures, exquisitely pretty, at the head
+of the several bays, evoked many an exclamation of admiration.  It was
+the most natural thing in the world that I should feel deepest
+admiration for these successive pictures of quiet scenic beauty, but the
+Doctor had quite as much to say about them as I had myself, though, as
+one might imagine, satiated with pictures of this kind far more
+beautiful--far more wonderful--he should long ago have expended all his
+powers of admiring scenes in nature.
+
+From Bagamoyo to Ujiji I had seen nothing to compare to them--none
+of these fishing settlements under the shade of a grove of palms and
+plantains, banians and mimosa, with cassava gardens to the right and
+left of palmy forests, and patches of luxuriant grain looking down upon
+a quiet bay, whose calm waters at the early morn reflected the beauties
+of the hills which sheltered them from the rough and boisterous tempests
+that so often blew without.
+
+The fishermen evidently think themselves comfortably situated. The lake
+affords them all the fish they require, more than enough to eat, and
+the industrious a great deal to sell. The steep slopes of the hills,
+cultivated by the housewives, contribute plenty of grain, such as dourra
+and Indian corn, besides cassava, ground-nuts or peanuts, and sweet
+potatoes. The palm trees afford oil, and the plantains an abundance of
+delicious fruit. The ravines and deep gullies supply them with the tall
+shapely trees from which they cut out their canoes. Nature has supplied
+them bountifully with all that a man's heart or stomach can desire. It
+is while looking at what seems both externally and internally complete
+and perfect happiness that the thought occurs--how must these people
+sigh, when driven across the dreary wilderness that intervenes between
+the lake country and the sea-coast, for such homes as these!--those
+unfortunates who, bought by the Arabs for a couple of doti, are taken
+away to Zanzibar to pick cloves, or do hamal work!
+
+As we drew near Niasanga, our second camp, the comparison between the
+noble array of picturesque hills and receding coves, with their pastoral
+and agricultural scenes, and the shores of old Pontus, was very great.
+A few minutes before we hauled our canoe ashore, two little incidents
+occurred. I shot an enormous dog-faced monkey, which measured from nose
+to end of tail 4 feet 9 inches; the face was 8 1/2 inches long, its body
+weighed about 100 lbs. It had no mane or tuft at end of tail, but the
+body was covered with long wiry hair. Numbers of these specimens were
+seen, as well as of the active cat-headed and long-tailed smaller ones.
+The other was the sight of a large lizard, about 2 ft. 6 in. long, which
+waddled into cover before we had well noticed it. The Doctor thought it
+to be the Monitor terrestris.
+
+We encamped under a banian tree; our surroundings were the now
+light-grey waters of the Tanganika, an amphitheatral range of hills, and
+the village of Niasanga, situated at the mouth of the rivulet Niasanga,
+with its grove of palms, thicket of plantains, and plots of grain and
+cassava fields. Near our tent were about half-a-dozen canoes, large and
+small, belonging to the villagers. Our tent door fronted the glorious
+expanse of fresh water, inviting the breeze, and the views of distant
+Ugoma and Ukaramba, and the Island of Muzimu, whose ridges appeared of
+a deep-blue colour. At our feet were the clean and well-washed pebbles,
+borne upward into tiny lines and heaps by the restless surf. A search
+amongst these would reveal to us the material of the mountain heaps
+which rose behind and on our right and left; there was schist,
+conglomerate sandstone, a hard white clay, an ochreish clay containing
+much iron, polished quartz, &c. Looking out of our tent, we could see a
+line on each side of us of thick tall reeds, which form something like
+a hedge between the beach and the cultivated area around Niasanga.
+Among birds seen here, the most noted were the merry wagtails, which are
+regarded as good omens and messengers of peace by the natives, and any
+harm done unto them is quickly resented, and is fineable. Except to the
+mischievously inclined, they offer no inducement to commit violence. On
+landing, they flew to meet us, balancing themselves in the air in
+front, within easy reach of our hands. The other birds were crows,
+turtle-doves, fish-hawks, kingfishers, ibis nigra and ibis religiosa,
+flocks of whydah birds, geese, darters, paddy birds, kites, and eagles.
+
+At this place the Doctor suffered from dysentery--it is his only weak
+point, he says; and, as I afterwards found, it is a frequent complaint
+with him. Whatever disturbed his mind, or any irregularity in eating,
+was sure to end in an attack of dysentery, which had lately become of a
+chronic character.
+
+The third day of our journey on the Tanganika brought us to Zassi
+River and village, after a four hours' pull. Along the line of road
+the mountains rose 2,000 and 2,500 feet above the waters of the lake.
+I imagined the scenery getting more picturesque and animated at every
+step, and thought it by far lovelier than anything seen near Lake George
+or on the Hudson. The cosy nooks at the head of the many small bays
+constitute most admirable pictures, filled in as they are with the
+ever-beautiful feathery palms and broad green plantain fronds. These
+nooks have all been taken possession of by fishermen, and their
+conically beehive-shaped huts always peep from under the frondage. The
+shores are thus extremely populous; every terrace, small plateau, and
+bit of level ground is occupied.
+
+Zassi is easily known by a group of conical hills which rise near by,
+and are called Kirassa. Opposite to these, at the distance of about a
+mile from shore, we sounded, and obtained 35 fathoms, as on the previous
+day. Getting out a mile further, I let go the whole length of my line,
+115 fathoms, and obtained no bottom. In drawing it up again the line
+parted, and I lost the lead, with three-fourths of the line. The Doctor
+stated, apropos of this, that he had sounded opposite the lofty Kabogo,
+south of Ujiji, and obtained the great depth of 300 fathoms. He also
+lost his lead and 100 fathoms of his line, but he had nearly 900 fathoms
+left, and this was in the canoes. We hope to use this long sounding line
+in going across from the eastern to the western shore.
+
+On the fourth day we arrived at Nyabigma, a sandy island in Urundi.
+We had passed the boundary line between Ujiji and Urundi half-an-hour
+before arriving at Nyabigma. The Mshala River is considered by both
+nations to be the proper divisional line; though there are parties of
+Warundi who have emigrated beyond the frontier into Ujiji; for instance,
+the Mutware and villagers of populous Kagunga, distant an hour north
+from Zassi. There are also several small parties of Wajiji, who
+have taken advantage of the fine lands in the deltas of the Kasokwe,
+Namusinga, and Luaba Rivers, the two first of which enter the Tanganika
+in this bay, near the head of which Nyabigma is situated.
+
+From Nyabigma, a pretty good view of the deep curve in the great
+mountain range which stretches from Cape Kazinga and terminates at Cape
+Kasofu, may be obtained--a distance of twenty or twenty-five miles. It
+is a most imposing scene, this great humpy, ridgy, and irregular line
+of mountains. Deep ravines and chasms afford outlets to the numerous
+streams and rivers which take their rise in the background; the pale
+fleecy ether almost always shrouds its summit. From its base extends a
+broad alluvial plain, rich beyond description, teeming with palms
+and plantains, and umbrageous trees. Villages are seen in clusters
+everywhere. Into this alluvial plain run the Luaba, or Ruaba River, on
+the north side of Cape Kitunda, and the Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Mshala
+Rivers, on the south side of the cape. All the deltas of rivers emptying
+into the Tanganika are hedged in on all sides with a thick growth of
+matete, a gigantic species of grass, and papyrus. In some deltas, as
+that of Luaba and Kasokwe, morasses have been formed, in which the
+matete and papyrus jungle is impenetrable. In the depths of them are
+quiet and deep pools, frequented by various aquatic birds, such as
+geese, ducks, snipes, widgeons, kingfishers and ibis, cranes and
+storks, and pelicans. To reach their haunts is, however, a work of great
+difficulty to the sportsman in quest of game; a work often attended with
+great danger, from the treacherous nature of these morasses, as well as
+from the dreadful attacks of fever which, in these regions, invariably
+follow wet feet and wet clothes.
+
+At Nyabigma we prepared, by distributing ten rounds of ammunition to
+each of our men, for a tussle with the Warundi of two stages ahead,
+should they invite it by a too forward exhibition of their prejudice to
+strangers.
+
+At dawn of the fifth day we quitted the haven of Nyabigma Island, and
+in less than an hour had arrived off Cape Kitunda. This cape is a low
+platform of conglomerate sandstone, extending for about eight miles from
+the base of the great mountain curve which gives birth to the Luaba and
+its sister streams. Crossing the deep bay, at the head of which is the
+delta of the Luaba, we came to Cape Kasofu. Villages are numerous in
+this vicinity. From hence we obtained a view of a series of points or
+capes, Kigongo, Katunga, and Buguluka, all of which we passed before
+coming to a halt at the pretty position of Mukungu.
+
+At Mukungu, where we stopped on the fifth day, we were asked for honga,
+or tribute. The cloth and beads upon which we subsisted during our
+lake voyage were mine, but the Doctor, being the elder of the two,
+more experienced, and the "big man" of the party, had the charge of
+satisfying all such demands. Many and many a time had I gone through the
+tedious and soul-wearying task of settling the honga, and I was quite
+curious to see how the great traveller would perform the work.
+
+The Mateko (a man inferior to a Mutware) of Mukungu asked for two and a
+half doti. This was the extent of the demand, which he made known to us
+a little after dark. The Doctor asked if nothing had been brought to us.
+He was answered, "No, it was too late to get anything now; but, if we
+paid the honga, the Mateko would be ready to give us something when we
+came back." Livingstone, upon hearing this, smiled, and the Mateko being
+then and there in front of him, he said to him. "Well, if you can't get
+us anything now, and intend to give something when we return, we had
+better keep the honga until then." The Mateko was rather taken aback
+at this, and demurred to any such proposition. Seeing that he was
+dissatisfied, we urged him to bring one sheep--one little sheep--for our
+stomachs were nearly empty, having been waiting more than half a day for
+it. The appeal was successful, for the old man hastened, and brought us
+a lamb and a three-gallon pot of sweet but strong zogga, or palm toddy,
+and in return the Doctor gave him two and a half doti of cloth. The lamb
+was killed, and, our digestions being good, its flesh agreed with us;
+but, alas, for the effects of zogga, or palm toddy! Susi, the invaluable
+adjunct of Dr. Livingstone, and Bombay, the headman of my caravan, were
+the two charged with watching the canoe; but, having imbibed too freely
+of this intoxicating toddy, they slept heavily, and in the morning
+the Doctor and I had to regret the loss of several valuable and
+indispensable things; among which may be mentioned the Doctor's
+900-fathom sounding-line, 500 rounds of pin, rim, and central-fire
+cartridges for my arms, and ninety musket bullets, also belonging to me.
+Besides these, which were indispensable in hostile Warundi, a large bag
+of flour and the Doctor's entire stock of white sugar were stolen. This
+was the third time that my reliance in Bombay's trustworthiness resulted
+in a great loss to me, and for the ninety-ninth time I had to
+regret bitterly having placed such entire confidence in Speke's loud
+commendation of him. It was only the natural cowardice of ignorant
+thieves that prevented the savages from taking the boat and its entire
+contents, together with Bombay and Susi as slaves. I can well imagine
+the joyful surprise which must have been called forth at the sight and
+exquisite taste of the Doctor's sugar, and the wonder with which they
+must have regarded the strange ammunition of the Wasungu. It is to be
+sincerely hoped that they did not hurt themselves with the explosive
+bullets and rim cartridges through any ignorance of the nature of the
+deadly contents; in which ease the box and its contents would prove a
+very Pandora's casket.
+
+Much grieved at our loss, we set off on the sixth day at the usual hour
+on our watery journey. We coasted close to the several low headlands
+formed by the rivers Kigwena, Kikuma, and Kisunwe; and when any
+bay promised to be interesting, steered the canoe according to its
+indentations. While travelling on the water--each day brought forth
+similar scenes--on our right rose the mountains of Urundi, now and then
+disclosing the ravines through which the several rivers and streams
+issued into the great lake; at their base were the alluvial plains,
+where flourished the oil-palm and grateful plantain, while scores of
+villages were grouped under their shade. Now and then we passed long
+narrow strips of pebbly or sandy beach, whereon markets were improvised
+for selling fish, and the staple products of the respective communities.
+Then we passed broad swampy morasses, formed by the numerous streams
+which the mountains discharged, where the matete and papyrus flourished.
+Now the mountains approached to the water, their sides descending
+abruptly to the water's edge; then they receded into deep folds, at the
+base of which was sure to be seen an alluvial plain from one to
+eight miles broad. Almost constantly we observed canoes being punted
+vigorously close to the surf, in fearless defiance of a catastrophe,
+such as a capsize and gobbling-up by voracious crocodiles. Sometimes we
+sighted a canoe a short distance ahead of us; whereupon our men, with
+song and chorus, would exert themselves to the utmost to overtake it.
+Upon observing our efforts, the natives would bend themselves to
+their tasks, and paddling standing and stark naked, give us ample
+opportunities for studying at our leisure comparative anatomy. Or we
+saw a group of fishermen lazily reclining in _puris naturalibus_ on
+the beach, regarding with curious eye the canoes as they passed their
+neighbourhood; then we passed a flotilla of canoes, their owners sitting
+quietly in their huts, busily plying the rod and hook, or casting their
+nets, or a couple of men arranging their long drag nets close in shore
+for a haul; or children sporting fearlessly in the water, with their
+mothers looking on approvingly from under the shade of a tree, from
+which I infer that there are not many crocodiles in the lake, except in
+the neighbourhood of the large rivers.
+
+After passing the low headland of Kisunwe, formed by the Kisunwe River,
+we came in view of Murembwe Cape, distant about four or five miles: the
+intervening ground being low land, a sandy and pebbly beach. Close to
+the beach are scores of villages, while the crowded shore indicates the
+populousness of the place beyond. About half way between Cape Kisunwe
+and Murembwe, is a cluster of villages called Bikari, which has a
+mutware who is in the habit of taking honga. As we were rendered
+unable to cope for any length of time with any mischievously inclined
+community, all villages having a bad reputation with the Wajiji were
+avoided by us. But even the Wajiji guides were sometimes mistaken, and
+led us more than once into dangerous places. The guides evidently had
+no objections to halt at Bikari, as it was the second camp from Mukungu;
+because with them a halt in the cool shade of plaintains was infinitely
+preferable to sitting like carved pieces of wood in a cranky canoe. But
+before they stated their objections and preferences, the Bikari people
+called to us in a loud voice to come ashore, threatening us with the
+vengeance of the great Wami if we did not halt. As the voices were
+anything but siren-like, we obstinately refused to accede to the
+request. Finding threats of no avail, they had recourse to stones,
+and, accordingly, flung them at us in a most hearty manner. As one came
+within a foot of my arm, I suggested that a bullet be sent in return in
+close proximity to their feet; but Livingstone, though he said nothing,
+yet showed plainly enough that he did not quite approve of this. As
+these demonstrations of hostility were anything but welcome, and as we
+saw signs of it almost every time we came opposite a village, we kept on
+our way until we came to Murembwe Point, which, being a delta of a river
+of the same name, was well protected by a breadth of thorny jungle,
+spiky cane, and a thick growth of reed and papyrus, from which the
+boldest Mrundi might well shrink, especially if he called to mind that
+beyond this inhospitable swamp were the guns of the strangers his like
+had so rudely challenged. We drew our canoe ashore here, and, on a
+limited area of clean sand, Ferajji, our rough-and-ready cook, lit his
+fire, and manufactured for us a supply of most delicious Mocha coffee.
+Despite the dangers which still beset us, we were quite happy, and
+seasoned our meal with a little moral philosophy, which lifted us
+unconsciously into infinitely superior beings to the pagans by whom we
+were surrounded--upon whom we now looked down, under the influence of
+Mocha coffee and moral philosophy, with calm contempt, not unmixed with
+a certain amount of compassion. The Doctor related some experiences he
+had had among people of similar disposition, but did not fail to ascribe
+them, with the wisdom of a man of ripe experiences, to the unwise
+conduct of the Arabs and half-castes; in this opinion I unreservedly
+concur.
+
+From Murembwe Point, having finished our coffee and ended our discourse
+on ethics, we proceeded on our voyage, steering for Cape Sentakeyi,
+which, though it was eight or ten miles away, we hoped to make before
+dark. The Wangwana pulled with right good will, but ten hours went by,
+and night was drawing near, and we were still far from Sentakeyi. As
+it was a fine moonlight night, and we were fully alive to the dangerous
+position in which we might find ourselves, they consented to pull
+an hour or two more. About 1 P.M., we pulled in shore for a deserted
+spot--a clean shelf of sand, about thirty feet long by ten deep, from
+which a clay bank rose about ten or twelve feet above, while on each
+side there were masses of disintegrated rock. Here we thought, that
+by preserving some degree of silence, we might escape observation, and
+consequent annoyance, for a few hours, when, being rested, we might
+continue our journey. Our kettle was boiling for tea, and the men had
+built a little fire for themselves, and had filled their black earthen
+pot with water for porridge, when our look-outs perceived dark forms
+creeping towards our bivouac. Being hailed, they at once came forward,
+and saluted us with the native "Wake." Our guides explained that we were
+Wangwana, and intended to camp until morning, when, if they had anything
+to sell, we should be glad to trade with them. They said they were
+rejoiced to hear this, and after they had exchanged a few words
+more--during which time we observed that they were taking mental notes
+of the camp--they went away. Upon leaving, they promised to return in
+the morning with food, and make friends with us. While drinking our tea,
+the look-outs warned us of the approach of a second party, which went
+through the same process of saluting and observing as the first had
+done. These also went away, over-exuberant, as I thought, and were
+shortly succeeded by a third party, who came and went as the others had.
+From all this we inferred that the news was spreading rapidly through
+the villages about, and we had noticed two canoes passing backwards and
+forwards with rather more haste than we deemed usual or necessary. We
+had good cause to be suspicious; it is not customary for people (at
+least, between Ujiji and Zanzibar) to be about visiting and saluting
+after dark, under any pretence; it is not permitted to persons to prowl
+about camp after dark without being shot at; and this going backward and
+forward, this ostentatious exuberance of joy at the arrival of a small
+party of Wangwana, which in many parts of Urundi would be regarded as a
+very common event, was altogether very suspicious. While the Doctor and
+I were arriving at the conclusion that these movements were preliminary
+to or significant of hostility, a fourth body, very boisterous and loud,
+came and visited us. Our supper had been by this time despatched, and
+we thought it high time to act. The fourth party having gone with
+extravagant manifestations of delight, the men were hurried into the
+canoe, and, when all were seated, and the look-outs embarked, we quietly
+pushed off, but not a moment too soon. As the canoe was gliding from the
+darkened light that surrounded us, I called the Doctor's attention to
+several dark forms; some of whom were crouching behind the rocks on
+our right, and others scrambling over them to obtain good or better
+positions; at the same time people were approaching from the left of
+our position, in the same suspicious way; and directly a voice hailed us
+from the top of the clay bank overhanging the sandy shelf where we
+had lately been resting. "Neatly done," cried the Doctor, as we were
+shooting through the water, leaving the discomfited would-be robbers
+behind us. Here, again, my hand was stayed from planting a couple of
+good shots, as a warning to them in future from molesting strangers, by
+the more presence of the Doctor, who, as I thought, if it were actually
+necessary, would not hesitate to give the word.
+
+After pulling six hours more, during which we had rounded Cape
+Sentakeyi, we stopped at the small fishing village of Mugeyo, where we
+were permitted to sleep unmolested. At dawn we continued our journey,
+and about 8 A.M. arrived at the village of the friendly Mutware of
+Magala. We had pulled for eighteen hours at a stretch, which, at the
+rate of two miles and a half per hour, would make forty-five miles.
+Taking bearings from our camp at Cape Magala, one of the most prominent
+points in travelling north from Ujiji, we found that the large island
+of Muzimu, which had been in sight ever since rounding Cape Bangwe, near
+Ujiji Bunder, bore about south-south-west, and that the western shore
+had considerably approached to the eastern; the breadth of the lake
+being at this point about eight or ten miles. We had a good view of the
+western highlands, which seemed to be of an average height, about 3,000
+feet above the lake. Luhanga Peak, rising a little to the north of west
+from Magala, might be about 500 feet higher; and Sumburizi, a little
+north of Luhanga, where lived Mruta, Sultan of Uvira, the country
+opposite to this part of Urundi, about 300 feet higher than the
+neighbouring heights. Northward from Magala Cape the lake streamed away
+between two chains of mountains; both meeting in a point about thirty
+miles north of us.
+
+The Warundi of Magala were very civil, and profound starers. They
+flocked around the tent door, and most pertinaciously gazed on us, as
+if we were subjects of most intense interest, but liable to sudden and
+eternal departure. The Mutware came to see us late in the afternoon,
+dressed with great pomp. He turned out to be a boy whom I had noticed in
+the crowd of gazers for his good looks and fine teeth, which he showed,
+being addicted to laughing continually. There was no mistaking him,
+though he was now decorated with many ivory ornaments, with necklaces,
+and with heavy brass bracelets and iron wire anklets. Our admiration
+of him was reciprocated; and, in return for our two doti of cloth and a
+fundo of samsam, he gave a fine fat and broad-tailed sheep, and a pot of
+milk. In our condition both were extremely acceptable.
+
+At Magala we heard of a war raging between Mukamba, for whose country we
+were bound, and Warumashanya, a Sultan of an adjoining district; and
+we were advised that, unless we intended to assist one of these chiefs
+against the other, it would be better for us to return. But, as we had
+started to solve the problem of the Rusizi River, such considerations
+had no weight with us.
+
+On the eighth morning from leaving Ujiji we bade farewell to the
+hospitable people of Magala, and set off for Mukamba's country, which
+was in view. Soon after passing the boundary between Urundi proper,
+and what is known as Usige, a storm from the south-west arose; and
+the fearful yawing of our canoe into the wave trough warned us from
+proceeding further; so we turned her head for Kisuka village, about four
+miles north, where Mugere, in Usige, begins.
+
+At Kisuka a Mgwana living with Mukamba came to see us, and gave us
+details of the war between Mukamba and Warumashanya, from which it
+seemed that these two chiefs were continually at loggerheads. It is a
+tame way of fighting, after all. One chief makes a raid into the other's
+country, and succeeds in making off with a herd of cattle, killing one
+or two men who have been surprised. Weeks, or perhaps months elapse
+before the other retaliates, and effects a capture in a similar way, and
+then a balance is struck in which neither is the gainer. Seldom do they
+attack each other with courage and hearty goodwill, the constitution of
+the African being decidedly against any such energetic warfare.
+
+This Mgwana, further, upon being questioned, gave us information far
+more interesting, viz., about the Rusizi. He told us positively, with
+the air of a man who knew all about it, and as if anybody who doubted
+him might well be set down as an egregious ass, that the Rusizi River
+flowed out of the lake, away to Suna's (Mtesa's) country. "Where else
+could it flow to?" he asked. The Doctor was inclined to believe it, or,
+perhaps he was more inclined to let it rest as stated until our own eyes
+should confirm it. I was more inclined to doubt, as I told the
+Doctor; first, it was too good to be true; second, the fellow was too
+enthusiastic upon a subject that could not possibly interest him. His
+"Barikallahs" and "Inshallahs" were far too fervid; his answers too
+much in accordance with our wishes. The Doctor laid great stress on the
+report of a Mgwana he met far south, who stated that the grandfather or
+father of Rumanika, present King of Karagwah, had thought of excavating
+the bed of the Kitangule River, in order that his canoes might go to
+Ujiji to open a trade. From this, I imagine, coinciding as it did with
+his often-expressed and present firm belief that the waters of the
+Tanganika had an outlet somewhere, the Doctor was partial to the report
+of the Mgwana; but as we proceed we shall see how all this will end.
+
+On the ninth morning from Ujiji, about two hours after sunrise, we
+passed the broad delta of the Mugere, a river which gives its name also
+to the district on the eastern shore ruled over by Mukamba. We had come
+directly opposite the most southern of its three mouths, when we found
+quite a difference in the colour of the water. An almost straight line,
+drawn east and west from the mouth would serve well to mark off the
+difference that existed between the waters. On the south side was pure
+water of a light green, on the north side it was muddy, and the current
+could be distinctly seen flowing north. Soon after passing the first
+mouth we came to a second, and then a third mouth, each only a few yards
+broad, but each discharging sufficient water to permit our following the
+line of the currents several rods north beyond the respective mouths.
+
+Beyond the third mouth of the Mugere a bend disclosed itself, with
+groups of villages beyond on its bank. These were Mukamba's, and in one
+of them lived Mukamba, the chief. The natives had yet never seen a white
+man, and, of course, as soon as we landed we were surrounded by a large
+concourse, all armed with long spears--the only weapon visible amongst
+them save a club-stick, and here and there a hatchet.
+
+We were shown into a hut, which the Doctor and I shared between us. What
+followed on that day I have but a dim recollection, having been struck
+down by fever--the first since leaving Unyanyembe. I dimly recollect
+trying to make out what age Mukamba might be, and noting that he was
+good-looking withal, and kindly-disposed towards us. And during the
+intervals of agony and unconsciousness, I saw, or fancied I saw,
+Livingstone's form moving towards me, and felt, or fancied I felt,
+Livingstone's hand tenderly feeling my hot head and limbs. I had
+suffered several fevers between Bagamoyo and Unyanyembe, without
+anything or anybody to relieve me of the tedious racking headache and
+pain, or to illumine the dark and gloomy prospect which must necessarily
+surround the bedside of the sick and solitary traveller. But though this
+fever, having enjoyed immunity from it for three months, was more severe
+than usual, I did not much regret its occurrence, since I became the
+recipient of the very tender and fatherly kindness of the good man whose
+companion I now found myself.
+
+The next morning, having recovered slightly from the fever, when Mukamba
+came with a present of an ox, a sheep, and a goat, I was able to attend
+to the answers which he gave to the questions about the Rusizi River
+and the head of the lake. The ever cheerful and enthusiastic Mgwana was
+there also, and he was not a whit abashed, when, through him, the chief
+told us that the Rusizi, joined by the Ruanda, or Luanda, at a distance
+of two days' journey by water, or one day by land from the head of the
+lake, flowed INTO the lake.
+
+Thus our hopes, excited somewhat by the positive and repeated assurances
+that the river flowed out away towards Karagwah, collapsed as speedily
+as they were raised.
+
+We paid Mukamba the honga, consisting of nine doti and nine fundo of
+samsam, lunghio, muzurio n'zige. The printed handkerchiefs, which I had
+in abundance at Unyanyembe, would have gone well here. After receiving
+his present, the chief introduced his son, a tall youth of eighteen or
+thereabouts, to the Doctor, as a would-be son of the Doctor; but, with
+a good-natured laugh, the Doctor scouted all such relationship with him,
+as it was instituted only for the purpose of drawing more cloth out of
+him. Mukamba took it in good part, and did not insist on getting more.
+
+Our second evening at Mukamba's, Susi, the Doctor's servant, got
+gloriously drunk, through the chief's liberal and profuse gifts of
+pombe. Just at dawn neat morning I was awakened by hearing several
+sharp, crack-like sounds. I listened, and I found the noise was in our
+hut. It was caused by the Doctor, who, towards midnight, had felt some
+one come and lie down by his side on the same bed, and, thinking it was
+me, he had kindly made room, and laid down on the edge of the bed. But
+in the morning, feeling rather cold, he had been thoroughly awakened,
+and, on rising on his elbow to see who his bed-fellow was, he
+discovered, to his great astonishment, that it was no other than his
+black servant, Susi, who taking possession of his blankets, and folding
+them about himself most selfishly, was occupying almost the whole bed.
+The Doctor, with that gentleness characteristic of him, instead of
+taking a rod, had contented himself with slapping Susi on the back,
+saying, "Get up, Susi, will you? You are in my bed. How dare you, sir,
+get drunk in this way, after I have told you so often not to. Get up.
+You won't? Take that, and that, and that." Still Susi slept and grunted;
+so the slapping continued, until even Susi's thick hide began to feel
+it, and he was thoroughly awakened to the sense of his want of devotion
+and sympathy for his master in the usurping of even his master's bed.
+Susi looked very much crestfallen after this expose of his infirmity
+before the "little master," as I was called.
+
+The next day at dusk--Mukamba having come to bid us good-bye, and
+requested that as soon as we reached his brother Ruhinga, whose country
+was at the head of the lake, we would send our canoe back for him, and
+that in the meanwhile we should leave two of our men with him, with
+their guns, to help defend him in case Warumashanya should attack him
+as soon as we were gone--we embarked and pulled across. In nine hours we
+had arrived at the head of the lake in Mugihewa, the country of Ruhinga;
+Mukamba's elder brother. In looking back to where we had come from we
+perceived that we had made a diagonal cut across from south-east to
+north-west, instead of having made a direct east and west course; or,
+in other words, from Mugere--which was at least ten miles from the
+northernmost point of the eastern shore--we had come to Mugihewa,
+situated at the northernmost point of the western shore. Had we
+continued along the eastern shore, and so round the northern side of the
+lake, we should have passed by Mukanigi, the country of Warumashanya,
+and Usumbura of Simveh, his ally and friend. But by making a diagonal
+course, as just described, we had arrived at the extreme head of the
+lake without any difficulty.
+
+The country in which we now found ourselves, Mugihewa, is situated in
+the delta of the Rusizi River. It is an extremely flat country, the
+highest part of which is not ten feet above the lake, with numerous
+depressions in it overgrown with the rankest of matete-grass and the
+tallest of papyrus, and pond-like hollows, filled with stagnant water,
+which emit malaria wholesale. Large herds of cattle are reared on it;
+for where the ground is not covered with marshy plants it produces rich,
+sweet grass. The sheep and goats, especially the former, are always in
+good condition; and though they are not to be compared with English
+or American sheep, they are the finest I have seen in Africa. Numerous
+villages are seen on this land because the intervening spaces are not
+occupied with the rank and luxuriant jungle common in other parts of
+Africa. Were it not for the Euphorbia kolquall of Abyssinia--which some
+chief has caused to be planted as a defence round the villages--one
+might see from one end of Mugihewa to the other. The waters along the
+head of the lake, from the western to the eastern shores, swarm with
+crocodiles. From the banks, I counted ten heads of crocodiles, and the
+Rusizi, we were told, was full of them.
+
+Ruhinga, who came to see us soon after we had taken up our quarters
+in his village, was a most amiable man, who always contrived to see
+something that excited his risibility; though older by five or six years
+perhaps--he said he was a hundred years old--than Mukamba, he was not
+half so dignified, nor regarded with so much admiration by his people
+as his younger brother. Ruhinga had a better knowledge, however, of the
+country than Mukamba, and an admirable memory, and was able to impart
+his knowledge of the country intelligently. After he had done the
+honours as chief to us--presented us with an ox and a sheep, milk
+and honey--we were not backward in endeavouring to elicit as much
+information as possible out of him.
+
+The summary of the information derived from Ruhinga may be stated as
+follows:
+
+The country bordering the head of the lake from Urundi proper, on the
+eastern shore, to Uvira on the western, is divided into the following
+districts: 1st. Mugere, governed by Mukamba, through which issued into
+the lake the small rivers of Mugere and Mpanda. 2nd. Mukanigi, governed
+by Warumashanya, which occupied the whole of the north-eastern head
+of the lake, through which issued into the lake the small rivers of
+Karindwa and Mugera wa Kanigi. 3rd. On the eastern half of the district,
+at the head of the lake, was Usumbura, governed by Simveh, ally and
+friend of Warumashanya, extending to the eastern bank of the Rusizi.
+4th. Commencing from the western bank of the Rusizi, to the extreme
+north-western head of the lake, was Mugihewa--Ruhinga's country. 5th.
+From Uvira on the west, running north past Mugihewa, and overlapping it
+on the north side as far as the hills of Chamati, was Ruwenga, also a
+country governed by Mukamba. Beyond Ruwenga, from the hills of Chamati
+to the Ruanda River, was the country of Chamati. West of Ruwenga,
+comprising all the mountains for two days' journey in that direction,
+was Uashi. These are the smaller sub-divisions of what is commonly known
+as Ruwenga and Usige. Ruwenga comprises the countries of Ruwenga and
+Mugihewa; Usige, the countries of Usumbura, Mukanigi, and Mugere. But
+all these countries are only part and parcel of Urundi, which comprises
+all that country bordering the lake from Mshala River, on the eastern
+shore, to Uvira, on the western, extending over ten days' journey
+direct north from the head of the lake, and one month in a northeastern
+direction to Murukuko, the capital of Mwezi, Sultan of all Urundi.
+Direct north of Urundi is Ruanda; also a very large country.
+
+The Rusizi River--according to Ruhinga--rose near a lake called Kivo,
+which he said is as long as from Mugihawa to Mugere, and as broad as
+from Mugihewa to Warumashanya's country, or, say eighteen miles in
+length by about eight in breadth. The lake is surrounded by mountains
+on the western and northern sides: on the south-western side of one of
+these mountains issues the Rusizi--at first a small rapid stream; but as
+it proceeds towards the lake it receives the rivers Kagunissi, Kaburan,
+Mohira, Nyamagana, Nyakagunda, Ruviro, Rofubu, Kavimvira, Myove, Ruhuha,
+Mukindu, Sange, Rubirizi, Kiriba, and, lastly, the Ruanda River, which
+seems to be the largest of them all. Kivo Lake is so called from the
+country in which it is situated. On one side is Mutumbi (probably
+the Utumbi of Speke and Baker), on the west is Ruanda; on the east is
+Urundi. The name of the chief of Kivo is Kwansibura.
+
+After so many minute details about the River Rusizi, it only remained
+for us to see it. On the second morning of our arrival at Mugihewa we
+mustered ten strong paddlers, and set out to explore the head of the
+lake and the mouth of the Rusizi. We found that the northern head of
+the lake was indented with seven broad bays, each from one and a half to
+three miles broad; that long broad spits of sand, overgrown with matete,
+separated each bay from the other. The first, starting from west to
+east, at the broadest part, to the extreme southern point of Mugihewa,
+was about three miles broad, and served as a line of demarcation between
+Mukamba's district of Ruwenga and Mugihewa of Ruhinga; it was also two
+miles deep. The second bay was a mile from the southern extremity of
+Mugihewa to Ruhinga's village at the head of the bay, and it was a mile
+across to another spit of sand which was terminated by a small island.
+The third bay stretched for nearly a mile to a long spit, at the end of
+which was another island, one and a quarter mile in length, and was the
+western side of the fourth bay, at the head of which was the delta
+of the Rusizi. This fourth bay, at its base, was about three miles
+in depth, and penetrated half a mile further inland than any other.
+Soundings indicated six feet deep, and the same depth was kept to within
+a few hundred yards of the principal mouth of the Rusizi. The current
+was very sluggish; not more than a mile an hour. Though we constantly
+kept our binocular searching for the river, we could not see the main
+channel until within 200 yards of it, and then only by watching by what
+outlet the fishing; canoes came out. The bay at this point had narrowed
+from two miles to about 200 yards in breadth. Inviting a canoe to show
+us the way, a small flotilla of canoes preceded us, from the sheer
+curiosity of their owners. We followed, and in a few minutes were
+ascending the stream, which was very rapid, though but about ten yards
+wide, and very shallow; not more than two feet deep. We ascended about
+half a mile, the current being very strong, from six to eight miles an
+hour, and quite far enough to observe the nature of the stream at its
+embouchure. We could see that it widened and spread out in a myriad of
+channels, rushing by isolated clumps of sedge and matete grass; and that
+it had the appearance of a swamp. We had ascended the central, or main
+channel. The western channel was about eight yards broad. We observed,
+after we had returned to the bay, that the easternmost channel was about
+six yards broad, and about ten feet deep, but very sluggish. We had
+thus examined each of its three mouths, and settled all doubts as to
+the Rusizi being an effluent or influent. It was not necessary to ascend
+higher, there being nothing about the river itself to repay exploration
+of it.
+
+The question, "Was the Rusizi an effluent or an influent?" was answered
+for ever. There was now no doubt any more on that point. In size it was
+not to be compared with the Malagarazi River, neither is it, or can
+it be, navigable for anything but the smallest canoes. The only thing
+remarkable about it is that it abounds in crocodiles, but not one
+hippopotamus was seen; which may be taken as another evidence of
+its shallowness. The bays to the east of the Rusizi are of the same
+conformation as those on the west. Carefully judging from the width of
+the several bays from point to point, and of the several spits which
+separate them, the breadth of the lake may be said to be about twelve
+or fourteen miles. Had we contented ourselves with simply looking at
+the conformation, and the meeting of the eastern and western ranges, we
+should have said that the lake ended in a point, as Captain Speke has
+sketched it on his map. But its exploration dissolved that idea. Chamati
+Hill is the extreme northern termination of the western range, and
+seems, upon a superficial examination, to abut against the Ramata
+mountains of the eastern range, which are opposite Chamati; but a valley
+about a mile in breadth separates the two ranges, and through this
+valley the Rusizi flows towards the lake.* Though Chamati terminates
+the western range, the eastern range continues for miles beyond,
+north-westerly. After its issue from this broad gorge, the Rusizi runs
+seemingly in a broad and mighty stream, through a wide alluvial plain,
+its own formation, in a hundred channels, until, approaching the
+lake, it flows into it by three channels only, as above described.
+______________ * After the patient investigation of the North end of the
+Lake, and satisfying ourselves by personal observation that the Rusizi
+ran into the Lake, the native rumor which Sir Samuel Baker brought home
+that the Tanganika and the Albert N'Yanza have a water connection still
+finds many believers! ______________
+
+I should not omit to state here, that though the Doctor and I have had
+to contend against the strong current of the Rusizi River, as it flowed
+swift and strong INTO the Tanganika, the Doctor still adheres to the
+conviction that, whatever part the Rusizi plays, there must be an outlet
+to the Tanganika somewhere, from the fact that all fresh-water lakes
+have outlets, The Doctor is able to state his opinions and reasons far
+better than I can find for him; and, lest I misconstrue the subject,
+I shall leave it until he has an opportunity to explain them himself;
+which his great knowledge of Africa will enable him to do with
+advantage.
+
+One thing is evident to me, and I believe to the Doctor, that Sir Samuel
+Baker will have to curtail the Albert N'Yanza by one, if not two degrees
+of latitude. That well-known traveller has drawn his lake far into the
+territory of the Warundi, while Ruanda has been placed on the eastern
+side; whereas a large portion of it, if not all, should be placed north
+of what he has designated on his map as Usige. The information of such
+an intelligent man as Ruhinga is not to be despised; for, if Lake Albert
+came within a hundred miles of the Tanganika, he would surely have heard
+of its existence, even if he had not seen it himself. Originally he came
+from Mutumbi, and he has travelled from that country into Mugihewa, the
+district he now governs. He has seen Mwezi, the great King of Urundi,
+and describes him as a man about forty years old, and as a very good
+man.
+
+Our work was now done; there was nothing more to detain us at Mugihewa.
+Ruhinga had been exceedingly kind, and given us one ox after another to
+butcher and eat. Mukamba had done the same. Their women had supplied us
+with an abundance of milk and butter, and we had now bounteous supplies
+of both.
+
+The Doctor had taken a series of observations for latitude and
+longitude; and Mugihewa was made out to be in 3 degrees 19 minutes S.
+latitude.
+
+On the 7th December, early in the morning, we left Mugihewa, and rowing
+past the southern extremity of the Katangara Islands, we approached the
+highlands of Uashi near the boundary line between Mukamba's country and
+Uvira. The boundary line is supposed to be a wide ravine, in the depths
+of which is a grove of tall, beautiful, and straight-stemmed trees, out
+of which the natives make their canoes.
+
+Passing Kanyamabengu River, which issues into the lake close to the
+market-ground of Kirabula, the extreme point of Burton and Speke's
+explorations of the Tanganika, we steered south along the western shore
+of the lake for half an hour longer to Kavimba, where we halted to cook
+breakfast.
+
+The village where lived Mruta, the King of Uvira, was in sight of our
+encampment, and as we observed parties of men ascending and descending
+the mountains much more often than we thought augured good to ourselves,
+we determined to continue on our course south. Besides, there was a
+party of disconsolate-looking Wajiji here, who had been plundered only a
+few days before our arrival, for attempting, as the Wavira believed, to
+evade the honga payment. Such facts as these, and our knowledge of the
+general state of insecurity in the country, resulting from the many wars
+in which the districts of the Tanganika were engaged, determined us not
+to halt at Kavimba.
+
+We embarked quickly in our boat before the Wavira had collected
+themselves, and headed south against a strong gale, which came driving
+down on us from the south-west. After a hard pull of about two hours in
+the teeth of the storm, which was rapidly rising, we pointed the head
+of the boat into a little quiet cove, almost hidden in tall reeds, and
+disembarked for the night.
+
+Cognizant of the dangers which surrounded us, knowing, that savage
+and implacable man was the worst enemy we had to fear, we employed our
+utmost energies in the construction of a stout fence of thorn bushes,
+and then sat down to supper after our work was done, and turned in to
+sleep; but not before we had posted watchmen to guard our canoe, lest
+the daring thieves of Uvira might abstract it, in which case we should
+have been in a pretty plight, and in most unenviable distress.
+
+At daybreak, leaving Kukumba Point after our humble breakfast of coffee,
+cheese, and dourra cakes was despatched, we steered south once more.
+Our fires had attracted the notice of the sharp-eyed and suspicious
+fishermen of Kukumba; but our precautions and the vigilant watch we
+had set before retiring, had proved an effectual safeguard against the
+Kivira thieves.
+
+The western shores of the lake as we proceeded were loftier, and more
+bold than the wooded heights of Urundi and bearded knolls of Ujiji. A
+back ridge--the vanguard of the mountains which rise beyond--disclosed
+itself between the serrated tops of the front line of mountains, which
+rose to a height of from 2,500 to 3,000 feet above the lake. Within the
+folds of the front line of mountains rise isolated hills of considerable
+magnitude, precipitous and abrupt, but scenically very picturesque.
+The greater part of these hills have the rounded and smooth top, or
+are tabularly summited. The ridge enfolding these hills shoots out, at
+intervals, promontorial projections of gradual sloping outlines, which
+on the map I have designated capes, or points. When rounding these
+points, up went our compasses for the taking of bearings, and observing
+the directions of all prominent objects of interest. Often these capes
+are formed by the alluvial plains, through which we may be sure a river
+will be found flowing. These pretty alluvial plains, enfolded on the
+south, the west, and the north by a grand mountain arc, present
+most luxurious and enchanting scenery. The vegetation seems to be of
+spontaneous growth. Groups of the Elaeis Guineansis palm embowering some
+dun-brown village; an array of majestic, superb growth of mvule trees;
+a broad extent covered with vivid green sorghum stalks; parachute-like
+tops of mimosa; a line of white sand, on which native canoes are
+drawn far above the reach of the plangent, uneasy surf; fishermen idly
+reclining in the shade of a tree;--these are the scenes which reveal
+themselves to us as we voyage in our canoe on the Tanganika. When
+wearied with the romance of wild tropic scenes such as these, we have
+but to lift our eyes to the great mountain tops looming darkly and
+grandly on our right; to watch the light pencilling of the cirrus,
+brushing their summits, as it is drifted toward the north by the rising
+wind: to watch the changing forms which the clouds assume, from the
+fleecy horizontal bars of the cirrus, to the denser, gloomier cumulus,
+prognosticator of storm and rain, which soon settles into a portentous
+group--Alps above Alps, one above another--and we know the storm which
+was brewing is at hand, and that it is time to seek shelter.
+
+Passing Muikamba, we saw several groves of the tall mvule tree. As
+far as Bemba the Wabembe occupy the mountain summits, while the Wavira
+cultivate the alluvial plains along the base and lower slopes of
+the mountain. At Bemba we halted to take in pieces of pipe-clay, in
+accordance with the superstition of the Wajiji, who thought us certain
+of safe passage and good fortune if we complied with the ancient custom.
+
+Passing Ngovi, we came to a deep bend, which curved off to Cape Kabogi
+at the distance of ten miles. About two-thirds of the way we arrived
+at a group of islets, three in number, all very steep and rocky; the
+largest about 300 feet in length at the base, and about 200 feet
+in breadth. Here we made preparations to halt for the night. The
+inhabitants of the island were a gorgeously-feathered old cock, which
+was kept as a propitiatory offering to the spirit of the island, a
+sickly yellow-looking thrush, a hammer-headed stork, and two fish-hawks,
+who, finding we had taken possession of what had been religiously
+reserved for them, took flight to the most western island, where from
+their perches they continued to eye us most solemnly. As these islands
+were with difficulty pronounced by us as Kavunvweh, the Doctor, seeing
+that they were the only objects we were likely to discover, named
+them the "'New York Herald' Islets;" and, in confirmation of the
+new designation given them, shook hands with me upon it. Careful
+dead-reckoning settled them to be in lat. 3 degrees 41 minutes S.
+
+The summit of the largest island was well adapted to take bearings, and
+we improved the opportunity, as most extensive views of the broad
+and lengthy lake and surrounding lines of imposing mountains were
+attainable. The Ramata Hills were clearly visible, and bore N.N.E.
+from it; Katanga Cape, S.E. by S.; Sentakeyi, E.S.E.; Magala, E. by N.;
+south-western point of Muzimu bore S., northern point of Muzimu island,
+S.S.E.
+
+At dawn on the 9th December we prepared to resume our voyage. Once or
+twice in the night we had been visited by fishermen, but our anxious
+watchfulness prevented any marauding. It seemed to me, however, that
+the people of the opposite shore, who were our visitors, were eagerly
+watching an opportunity to pounce upon our canoe, or take us bodily for
+a prey; and our men were considerably affected by these thoughts, if we
+may judge from the hearty good-will with which they rowed away from our
+late encampment.
+
+Arriving at Cape Kabogi, we came to the territory of the Wasansi. We
+knew we were abreast of a different tribe by the greeting "Moholo,"
+which a group of fishermen gave us; as that of the Wavira was "Wake,"
+like that of Urundi, Usige, and Uhha.
+
+We soon sighted Cape Luvumba--a sloping projection of a mountain ridge
+which shot far into the lake. As a storm was brewing, we steered for a
+snug little cove that appeared before a village; and, drawing our canoe
+from the water, began to set the tent, and make other preparations for
+passing the night.
+
+As the natives appeared quiet and civil enough, we saw no reason to
+suspect that they entertained any hostility to Arabs and Wangwana.
+Accordingly we had our breakfast cooked, and as usual laid down for an
+afternoon nap. I soon fell asleep, and was dreaming away in my tent, in
+happy oblivion of the strife and contention that had risen since I had
+gone to sleep, when I heard a voice hailing me with, "Master, master!
+get up, quick. Here is a fight going to begin!" I sprang up, and
+snatching my revolver belt from the gun-stand, walked outside. Surely,
+there appeared to be considerable animus between the several factions;
+between a noisy, vindictive-looking set of natives of the one part, and
+our people of the other part. Seven or eight of our people had taken
+refuge behind the canoe, and had their loaded guns half pointing at the
+passionate mob, which was momentarily increasing in numbers, but I could
+not see the Doctor anywhere.
+
+"Where is the Doctor?" I asked.
+
+"He has gone over that hill, sir, with his compass," said Selim.
+
+"Anybody with him?"
+
+"Susi and Chumah."
+
+"You, Bombay, send two men off to warn the Doctor, and tell him to hurry
+up here."
+
+But just at this period the Doctor and his two men appeared on the
+brow of the hill, looking down in a most complacent manner upon the
+serio-comic scene that the little basin wherein we were encamped
+presented. For, indeed, despite the serious aspect of it, there was much
+that was comical blended with it--in a naked young man who--perfectly
+drunk, barely able to stand on his feet--was beating the ground with his
+only loin-cloth, screaming and storming away like a madman; declaring
+by this, and by that, in his own choice language, that no Mgwana or Arab
+should halt one moment on the sacred soil of Usansi. His father, the
+Sultan, was as inebriated as himself, though not quite so violent in his
+behaviour. In the meantime the Doctor arrived upon the scene, and Selim
+had slipped my Winchester rifle, with the magazine full of cartridges,
+into my hand. The Doctor calmly asked what was the matter, and was
+answered by the Wajiji guides that the people wished us to leave, as
+they were on hostile terms with the Arabs, because the eldest son of the
+Sultan of Muzimu, the large island nearly opposite, had been beaten to
+death by a Baluch, named Khamis, at Ujiji, because the young fellow had
+dared look into his harem, and ever since peace had been broken between
+the Wasansi and Arabs.
+
+After consulting with the guides, the Doctor and I came to the
+conclusion that it were better that we should endeavour to pacify
+the Sultan by a present, rather than take offence at a drunken boy's
+extravagant freak. In his insane fury he had attempted to slash at
+one of my men with a billhook he carried. This had been taken as a
+declaration of hostilities, and the soldiers were ready enough to engage
+in war; but there was no necessity to commence fighting with a drunken
+mob, who could have been cleared off the ground with our revolvers alone
+had we desired it.
+
+The Doctor, baring his arm, said to them that he was not a Mgwana, or an
+Arab; but a white man; that Arabs and Wangwana had no such colour as we
+had. We were white men, different people altogether from those whom they
+were accustomed to see: that no black men had ever suffered injury
+from white men. This seemed to produce great effect, for after a little
+gentle persuasion the drunken youth, and his no less inebriate sire,
+were induced to sit down to talk quietly. In their conversation with us,
+they frequently referred to Mombo, the son of Kisesa, Sultan of Muzimu,
+who was brutally murdered. "Yes, brutally murdered!" they exclaimed
+several times, in their own tongue; illustrating, by a faithful
+pantomime, how the unfortunate youth had died.
+
+Livingstone continued talking with them in a mild, paternal way, and
+their loud protestations against Arab cruelty were about to subside,
+when the old Sultan suddenly rose up and began to pace about in an
+excited manner, and in one of his perambulations deliberately slashed
+his leg with the sharp blade of his spear, and then exclaimed that the
+Wangwana had wounded him!
+
+At this cry one half of the mob hastily took to flight, but one old
+woman, who carried a strong staff with a carved lizard's body on its
+top, commenced to abuse the chief with all the power of her voluble
+tongue, charging him with a desire to have them all killed, and other
+women joined in with her in advising him to be quiet, and accept the
+present we were willing to give.
+
+But it is evident that there was little needed to cause all men present
+in that little hollow to begin a most sanguinary strife. The gentle,
+patient bearing of the Doctor had more effect than anything else in
+making all forbear bloodshed, while there was left the least chance of
+an amicable settlement, and in the end it prevailed. The Sultan and his
+son were both sent on their way rejoicing.
+
+While the Doctor conversed with them, and endeavoured to calm their
+fierce passions, I had the tent struck, and the canoes launched, and
+the baggage stowed, and when the negotiations had concluded amicably,
+I begged the Doctor to jump into the boat, as this apparent peace was
+simply a lull before a storm; besides, said I, there are two or three
+cowardly creatures in the boat, who, in case of another disturbance,
+would not scruple to leave both of us here.
+
+From Cape Luvumba, about 4.30 P.M. we commenced pulling across; at 8
+P.M. we were abreast of Cape Panza, the northern extremity of the
+island of Muzimu; at 6 A.M. we were southward of Bikari, and pulling for
+Mukungu, in Urundi, at which place we arrived at 10 A.M., having been
+seventeen hours and a half in crossing the lake, which, computing at two
+miles an hour, may be said to be thirty-five miles direct breadth, and a
+little more than forty-three miles from Cape Luvumba.
+
+On the 11th of December, after seven hours' pulling, we arrived at
+picturesque Zassi again; on the 12th, at the pretty cove of Niasanga;
+and at 11 A.M. we had rounded past Bangwe, and Ujiji was before us.
+
+We entered the port very quietly, without the usual firing of guns, as
+we were short of powder and ball. As we landed, our soldiers and the
+Arab magnates came to the water's edge to greet us.
+
+Mabruki had a rich budget to relate to us, of what had occurred during
+our absence. This faithful man, left behind in charge of Livingstone's
+house, had done most excellently. Kalulu had scalded himself, and had
+a frightful raw sore on his chest in consequence. Mabruki had locked up
+Marora in chains for wounding one of the asses. Bilali, the stuttering
+coward, a bully of women, had caused a tumult in the market-place, and
+had been sharply belaboured with the stick by Mabruki. And, above
+all most welcome, was a letter I received from the American Consul at
+Zanzibar, dated June 11th, containing telegrams from Paris as late as
+April 22nd of the same year! Poor Livingstone exclaimed, "And I have
+none. What a pleasant thing it is to have a real and good friend!"
+
+Our voyage on the Tanganika had lasted twenty-eight days, during which
+time we had traversed over 300 miles of water.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV. -- OUR JOURNEY FROM UJIJI TO UNYANYEMBE.
+
+
+We felt quite at home when we sat down on our black bear-skin, gay
+Persian carpet and clean new mats, to rest with our backs to the wall,
+sipping our tea with the air of comfortable men, and chat over the
+incidents of the "picnic," as Livingstone persisted in calling our
+journey to the Rusizi. It seemed as if old times, which we loved to
+recall, had come back again, though our house was humble enough in its
+aspect, and our servants were only naked barbarians; but it was near
+this house that I had met him--Livingstone--after that eventful march
+from Unyanyembe; it was on this same veranda that I listened to that
+wonderful story of his about those far, enchanting regions west of the
+Lake Tanganika; it was in this same spot that I first became acquainted
+with him; and ever since my admiration has been growing for him, and I
+feel elated when he informs me that he must go to Unyanyembe under my
+escort, and at my expense. The old mud walls and the bare rafters, and
+the ancient thatched roof, and this queer-looking old veranda, will have
+an historical interest for me while I live, and so, while I can, I have
+taken pains and immortalized the humble old building by a sketch.
+
+I have just said that my admiration for Livingstone has been growing.
+This is true. The man that I was about to interview so calmly and
+complacently, as I would interview any prominent man with the view
+of specially delineating his nature, or detailing his opinions, has
+conquered me. I had intended to interview him, report in detail what he
+said, picture his life and his figure, then bow him my "au revoir,"
+and march back. That he was specially disagreeable and brusque in his
+manner, which would make me quarrel with him immediately, was firmly
+fixed in my mind.
+
+But Livingstone--true, noble Christian, generous-hearted, frank
+man--acted like a hero, invited me to his house, said he was glad to see
+me, and got well on purpose to prove the truth of his statement, "You
+have brought new life unto me;" and when I fell sick with the remittent
+fever, hovering between life and death, he attended me like a father,
+and we have now been together for more than a month.
+
+Can you wonder, then, that I like this man, whose face is the reflex of
+his nature, whose heart is essentially all goodness, whose aims are so
+high, that I break out impetuously sometimes: "But your family, Doctor,
+they would like to see you, oh! so much. Let me tempt you to come home
+with me. I promise to carry you every foot of the way to the coast.
+You shall have the finest donkey to ride that is in Unyanyembe. Your
+wants--you have but to hint them, and they shall be satisfied. Let the
+sources of the Nile go--do you come home and rest; then, after a year's
+rest, and restored health, you can return and finish what you have to
+do."
+
+But ever the answer was, "No, I should like to see my family very much
+indeed. My children's letters affect me intensely; but I must not go
+home; I must finish my task. It is only the want of supplies that has
+detained me. I should have finished the discovery of the Nile by this,
+by tracing it to its connection with either Baker's Lake, or Petherick's
+branch of the Nile. If I had only gone one month further, I could have
+said, 'the work is done."'
+
+Some of these men who had turned the Doctor back from his interesting
+discoveries were yet in Ujiji, and had the Government Enfield rifles in
+their hands, which they intended to retain until their wages had been
+paid to them; but as they had received $60 advance each at Zanzibar from
+the English Consul, with the understanding entered into by contract that
+they should follow their master wherever he required them to go; and as
+they had not only not gone where they were required to proceed with him,
+but had baffled and thwarted him, it was preposterous that a few men
+should triumph over the Doctor, by keeping the arms given to him by the
+Bombay Government. I had listened to the Arab sheikhs, friends of the
+Doctor, advising them in mild tones to give them up; I had witnessed
+the mutineer's stubbornness; and it was then, on the burzani of Sayd bin
+Majid's house, that I took advantage to open my mind on the subject, not
+only for the benefit of the stubborn slaves, but also for the benefit
+of the Arabs; and to tell them that it was well that I had found
+Livingstone alive, for if they had but injured a hair of his head, I
+should have gone back to the coast, to return with a party which would
+enable me to avenge him. I had been waiting to see Livingstone's guns
+returned to him every day, hoping that I should not have to use force;
+but when a month or more had elapsed, and still the arms had not been
+returned, I applied for permission to take them, which was granted.
+Susi, the gallant servant of Dr. Livingstone, was immediately despatched
+with about a dozen armed men to recover them, and in a few minutes we
+had possession of them without further trouble.
+
+The Doctor had resolved to accompany me to Unyanyembe, in order to meet
+his stores, which had been forwarded from Zanzibar, November 1st, 1870.
+As I had charge of the escort, it was my duty to study well the several
+routes to Unyanyembe from Ujiji. I was sufficiently aware of the
+difficulties and the responsibilities attached to me while escorting
+such a man. Besides, my own personal feelings were involved in the case.
+If Livingstone came to any harm through any indiscretion of mine
+while he was with me, it would immediately be said, "Ah! had he not
+accompanied Stanley, he would have been alive now."
+
+I took out my chart--the one I had made myself--in which I had perfect
+faith, and I sketched out a route which would enable us to reach
+Unyanyembe without paying a single cloth as tribute, and without
+encountering any worse thing than a jungle, by which we could avoid all
+the Wavinza and the plundering Wahha. This peaceable, secure route
+led by water, south, along the coast of Ukaranga and Ukawendi, to Cape
+Tongwe. Arriving at Cape Tongwe, I should be opposite the village of
+Itaga, Sultan Imrera, in the district of Rusawa of Ukawendi; after which
+we should strike my old road, which I had traversed from Unyanyembe,
+when bound for Ujiji. I explained it to the Doctor, and he instantly
+recognised its feasibility and security; and if I struck Imrera, as I
+proposed to do, it would demonstrate whether my chart was correct or
+not.
+
+We arrived at Ujiji from our tour of discovery, north of the Tanganika,
+December 13th; and from this date the Doctor commenced writing his
+letters to his numerous friends, and to copy into his mammoth Letts's
+Diary, from his field books, the valuable information he had acquired
+during his years of travel south and west of the Tanganika. I sketched
+him while sitting in his shirt-sleeves in the veranda, with his Letts's
+Diary on his knee; and the likeness on the frontispiece is an admirable
+portrait of him, because the artist who has assisted me, has with an
+intuitive eye, seen the defects in my own sketch; and by this I am
+enabled to restore him to the reader's view exactly as I saw him--as he
+pondered on what he had witnessed during his long marches.
+
+Soon after my arrival at Ujiji, he had rushed to his paper, and indited
+a letter to James Gordon Bennett, Esq., wherein he recorded his thanks;
+and after he had finished it, I asked him to add the word "Junior" to
+it, as it was young Mr. Bennett to whom he was indebted. I thought the
+letter admirable, and requested the Doctor not to add another word to
+it. The feelings of his heart had found expression in the grateful words
+he had written; and if I judged Mr. Bennett rightly, I knew he would be
+satisfied with it. For it was not the geographical news he cared so much
+about, as the grand fact of Livingstone's being alive or dead.
+
+In this latter part of December he was writing letters to his children,
+to Sir Roderick Murchison, and to Lord Granville. He had intended to
+have written to the Earl of Clarendon, but it was my sad task to inform
+him of the death of that distinguished nobleman.
+
+In the meantime I was preparing the Expedition for its return march to
+Unyanyembe, apportioning the bales and luggage, the Doctor's large tin
+boxes, and my own among my own men; for I had resolved upon permitting
+the Doctor's men to march as passengers, because they had so nobly
+performed their duty to their master.
+
+Sayd bin Majid had left, December 12, for Mirambo's country, to give the
+black Bonaparte battle for the murder of his son Soud in the forests
+of Wilyankuru; and he had taken with him 300 stout fellows, armed with
+guns, from Ujiji. The stout-hearted old chief was burning with rage
+and resentment, and a fine warlike figure he made with his 7-foot gun.
+Before we had departed for the Rusizi, I had wished him bon voyage,
+and expressed a hope that he would rid the Central African world of the
+tyrant Mirambo.
+
+On the 20th of December the rainy season was ushered in with heavy rain,
+thunder, lightning, and hail; the thermometer falling to 66 degrees
+Fahrenheit. The evening of this day I was attacked with urticaria,
+or "nettle rash," for the third time since arriving in Africa, and I
+suffered a woeful sickness; and it was the forerunner of an attack of
+remittent fever, which lasted four days. This is the malignant type,
+which has proved fatal to so many African travellers on the Zambezi, the
+White Nile, the Congo, and the Niger. The head throbs, the pulses bound,
+the heart struggles painfully, while the sufferer's thoughts are in a
+strange world, such only as a sick man's fancy can create. This was the
+fourth attack of fever since the day I met Livingstone. The excitement
+of the march, and the high hope which my mind constantly nourished,
+had kept my body almost invincible against an attack of fever while
+advancing towards Ujiji; but two weeks after the great event had
+transpired my energies were relaxed, my mind was perfectly tranquil, and
+I became a victim.
+
+Christmas came, and the Doctor and I had resolved upon the blessed and
+time-honoured day being kept as we keep it in Anglo-Saxon lands, with a
+feast such as Ujiji could furnish us. The fever had quite gone from me
+the night before, and on Christmas morning, though exceedingly weak, I
+was up and dressed, and lecturing Ferajji, the cook, upon the importance
+of this day to white men, and endeavouring to instil into the mind of
+the sleek and pampered animal some cunning secrets of the culinary
+art. Fat broad-tailed sheep, goats, zogga and pombe, eggs, fresh milk,
+plantains, singwe, fine cornflour, fish, onions, sweet potatoes, &c.,
+&c., were procured in the Ujiji market, and from good old Moeni Kheri.
+But, alas! for my weakness. Ferajji spoiled the roast, and our custard
+was burned--the dinner was a failure. That the fat-brained rascal
+escaped a thrashing was due only to my inability to lift my hands for
+punishment; but my looks were dreadful and alarming, and capable of
+annihilating any one except Ferajji. The stupid, hard-headed cook only
+chuckled, and I believe he had the subsequent gratification of eating
+the pies, custards, and roast that his carelessness had spoiled for
+European palates.
+
+Sayd bin Majid, previous to his departure, had left orders that we
+should be permitted to use his canoe for our homeward trip, and Moeni
+Kheri kindly lent his huge vessel for the same purpose. The Expedition,
+now augmented by the Doctor and his five servants, and their luggage,
+necessitated the employment of another canoe. We had our flocks of
+milch-goats and provision of fat sheep for the jungle of Ukawendi, the
+transit of which I was about to attempt. Good Halimah, Livingstone's
+cook, had made ready a sackful of fine flour, such as she only could
+prepare in her fond devotion for her master. Hamoydah, her husband, also
+had freely given his assistance and attention to this important article
+of food. I purchased a donkey for the Doctor, the only one available in
+Ujiji, lest the Doctor might happen to suffer on the long march from his
+ancient enemy. In short, we were luxuriously furnished with food, sheep,
+goats, cheese, cloth, donkeys, and canoes, sufficient to convey us a
+long distance; we needed nothing more.
+
+The 27th of December has arrived; it is the day of our departure from
+Ujiji. I was probably about to give an eternal farewell to the port
+whose name will for ever be sacred in my memory. The canoes--great
+lumbering hollow trees--are laden with good things; the rowers are
+in their places; the flag of England is hoisted at the stern of the
+Doctor's canoe; the flag of America waves and rustles joyously above
+mine; and I cannot look at them without feeling a certain pride that the
+two Anglo-Saxon nations are represented this day on this great inland
+sea, in the face of wild nature and barbarism.
+
+We are escorted to our boats by the great Arab merchants, by the
+admiring children of Unyamwezi, by the freemen of Zanzibar, by wondering
+Waguhha and Wajiji, by fierce Warundi, who are on this day quiet, even
+sorrowful, that the white men are going-"Whither?" they all ask.
+
+At 8 A.M. we start, freely distributing our farewells as the Arabs and
+quidnuncs wave their hands. On the part of one or two of them there was
+an attempt to say something sentimental and affecting, especially by the
+convicted sinner Mohammed bin Sali; but though outwardly I manifested no
+disapprobation of his words, or of the emphatic way in which he shook
+my hand, I was not sorry to see the last of him, after his treachery to
+Livingstone in 1869. I was earnestly requested to convey to Unyanyembe
+"Mengi salaams" to everybody, but had I done so, as he evidently desired
+me to do, I would not have been surprised at being regarded by all as
+hopelessly imbecile.
+
+We pushed off from the clayey bank at the foot of the market-place,
+while the land party, unencumbered with luggage, under the leadership of
+gigantic Asmani and Bombay, commenced their journey southward along the
+shores of the lake. We had arranged to meet them at the mouth of every
+river to transport them across from bank to bank.
+
+The Doctor being in Sayd bin Majid's boat, which was a third or so
+shorter than the one under my command, took the lead, with the British
+flag, held aloft by a bamboo, streaming behind like a crimson meteor.
+My boat-manned by Wajiji sailors, whom we had engaged to take the canoes
+back from Tongwe Cape to Ujiji Bunder--came astern, and had a much
+taller flagstaff, on which was hoisted the ever-beautiful Stars and
+Stripes. Its extreme height drew from the Doctor--whose patriotism and
+loyalty had been excited--the remark that he would cut down the tallest
+palmyra for his flagstaff, as it was not fitting that the British flag
+should be so much lower than that of the United States.
+
+Our soldiers were not a whit behind us in lightheartedness at the
+thought of going to Unyanyembe. They struck up the exhilarating song of
+the Zanzibar boatmen, with the ecstatic chorus--
+
+     Kinan de re re Kitunga,
+
+rowing away like madmen, until they were compelled to rest from sheer
+exhaustion, while the perspiration exuded from the pores of their bodies
+in streams. When refreshed, they bent back to their oars, raising the
+song of the Mrima--
+
+     O mama, re de mi Ky,
+
+which soon impelled them to an extravagant effort again, It was by
+this series of ferocious spurts, racing, shouting, singing, perspiring,
+laughing, groaning, and puffing, that our people vented their joyous
+feelings, as the thought filled their minds that we were homeward bound,
+and that by the route I had adopted between us and Unyanyembe there was
+not the least danger.
+
+       We have given the Waha, the slip! ha, ha!
+       The Wavinza will trouble us no more! ho! ho!
+     Mionvu can get no more cloth from us! by,by!
+     And Kiala will see us no more---never more! he, he!
+
+they shouted with wild bursts of laughter, seconded by tremendous and
+rapid strokes with their oars, which caused the stiff old canoes to
+quiver from stem to stern.
+
+Our party ashore seemed to partake of our excitement, and joined in the
+wild refrain of the mad African song. We watched them urging their steps
+forward to keep pace with us, as we rounded the capes and points, and
+rowed across the bays whose margins were sedge, and rush, and reed; the
+tiny and agile Kalulu, little Bilali, and Majwara were seen racing the
+herds of goats, sheep, and donkeys which belonged to the caravan, and
+the animals even seemed to share the general joy.
+
+Nature, also--proud, wild nature-0-with the lofty azure dome upheaved
+into infinity--with her breadth and depth of vivid greenness and
+enormous vastness on our left--with her immense sheet of bright,
+glancing water--with her awful and intense serenity--she partook of and
+added to our joy.
+
+About 10 A.M. we arrived at Kirindo's, an old chief, noted for his
+singular kindness to Dr. Livingstone, while he bore animosity to the
+Arabs. To the Arabs this was unaccountable--to the Doctor it was plain:
+he had but spoken kind and sincere words, while all the Arabs spoke to
+him as if he were not even a man, least of all a chief.
+
+Kirindo's place is at the mouth of the Liuche, which is very wide; the
+river oozes out through a forest of eschinomenae (pith tree). This was
+a rendezvous agreed upon between shore and lake parties, that the canoes
+might all cross to the other side, distant a mile and a half. The mouth
+of the Liuche forms the Bay of Ukaranga, so named because on the other
+side, whither we were about to cross our party, was situated the village
+of Ukaranga, a few hundred yards from the lake. All the baggage was
+taken out of the largest canoe, and stowed snugly in the smaller one,
+and a few select oarsmen having taken seats, pushed off with the Doctor
+on board, who was to superintend pitching the encampment at Ukaranga;
+while I remained behind to bind the fractious and ill-natured donkeys,
+and stow them away in the bottom of the large canoe, that no danger
+of upsetting might be incurred, and a consequent gobbling-up by hungry
+crocodiles, which were all about us waiting their opportunity. The flock
+of goats were then embarked, and as many of our people as could be got
+in. About thirty still remained behind with myself, for whom my canoe
+was to return.
+
+We all arrived safe at Ukaranga, though we got dangerously near a herd
+of hippopotami. The crossing of the wide mouth (the Liuche being then in
+flood) was effected in about four hours.
+
+The next day, in the same order as on our departure from Ujiji, we
+pursued our way south, the lake party keeping as closely as possible to
+the shore, yet, when feasible, wind and weather permitting, we struck
+off boldly across the numerous small bays which indent the shores of
+the Tanganika. The shores were beautifully green, the effect of the
+late rains; the waters of the lake were a faithful reflex of the blue
+firmament above. The hippopotami were plentiful. Those noticed on this
+day were coloured with reddish rings round the base of their ears and on
+the neck. One monster, coming up rather late, was surprised by the canoe
+making full for him, and in great fright took a tremendous dive which
+showed the whole length of his body. Half way between the mouth of
+the Malagarazi and that of the Liuche we saw a camp on shore--that of
+Mohammed bin Gharib, a Msawahili, who figured often in Livingstone's
+verbal narrative to me of his adventures and travels as one of the
+kindest and best of the Moslems in Central Africa. He appeared to me
+a kindly disposed man, with a face seldom seen, having the stamp of an
+unusual characteristic on it--that of sincerity.
+
+The vegetation of the shores as we proceeded was truly tropical, each
+curve revealed new beauties. With the soft chalky stone, of which most
+of the cliffs and bluffs are made, seen as we neared the mouth of the
+Malagarazi, the surf has played strange freaks.
+
+We arrived at the mouth of the Malagarazi about P.M., having rowed
+eighteen miles from Ukaranga. The shore party arrived, very much
+fatigued, about 5 P.M.
+
+The next day was employed in crossing the caravan across the broad mouth
+of the Malagarazi to our camp, a couple of miles north of the river.
+This is a river which a civilised community would find of immense
+advantage for shortening the distance between the Tanganika and the
+coast. Nearly one hundred miles might be performed by this river, which
+is deep enough at all seasons to allow navigation as far as Kiala,
+in Uvinza, whence a straight road might be easily made to
+Unyanyembe. Missionaries also might reap the same benefit from it for
+conversion-tours to Uvinza, Uhha, and Ugala. Pursuing our way on the
+30th, and rounding the picturesque capes of Kagongo, Mviga and Kivoe, we
+came, after about three hours' rowing, in sight of villages at the
+mouth of the swift and turbid Rugufu. Here we had again to transport the
+caravan ever the crocodile-infested mouth of the river.
+
+On the morning of the 31st we sent a canoe with men to search for food
+in the two or three villages that were visible on the other side.
+Four doti purchased just sufficient for four days for our caravan
+of forty-eight persons. We then got under weigh, having informed the
+kirangozi that Urimba was our destination, and bidding him keep as
+closely as possible to the lake shore, where it was practicable, but
+if not, to make the best he could of it. From the debouchement of the
+Rugufu, the headwaters of which we had crossed on our random route
+to Ujiji, to Urimba, a distance of six days by water, there are no
+villages, and consequently no food. The shore party, however, before
+leaving Ujiji, had eight days' rations, and on this morning four days',
+distributed to each person, and therefore was in no danger of starvation
+should the mountain headlands, now unfolding, abrupt and steep, one
+after another, prevent them from communicating with us. It must be
+understood that such a journey as this had never been attempted before
+by any Arab or Msawahili, and every step taken was in sheer ignorance
+of where the road would lead the men ashore. Rounding Kivoe's steep
+promontory, whose bearded ridge and rugged slope, wooded down to the
+water's edge, whose exquisite coves and quiet recesses, might well have
+evoked a poetical effusion to one so inclined, we dared the chopping
+waves of Kivoe's bay, and stood direct for the next cape, Mizohazy,
+behind which, owing to wind and wave, we were compelled to halt for the
+night.
+
+After Mizohazy is the bold cape of Kabogo--not the terrible Kabogo
+around whose name mystery has been woven by the superstitious
+natives--not the Kabogo whose sullen thunder and awful roar were heard
+when crossing the Rugufu on our flight from the Wahha---but a point
+in Ukaranga, on whose hard and uninviting rocks many a canoe has been
+wrecked. We passed close to its forbidding walls, thankful for the
+calm of the Tanganika. Near Kabogo are some very fine mvule trees, well
+adapted for canoe building, and there are no loud-mouthed natives about
+to haggle for the privilege of cutting them.
+
+Along the water's edge, and about three feet above it, was observed very
+clearly on the smooth face of the rocky slopes of Kabogo the high-water
+mark of the lake. This went to show that the Tanganika, during the rainy
+season, rises about three feet above its dry season level, and that,
+during the latter season, evaporation reduces it to its normal level.
+The number of rivers which we passed on this journey enabled me to
+observe whether, as I was told, there was any current setting north.
+It was apparent to me that, while the south-west, south, or south-east
+winds blew, the brown flood of the rivers swept north; but it happened
+that, while passing, once or twice, the mouths of rivers, after a
+puff from the north-west and north, that the muddied waters were seen
+southward of the mouths; from which I conclude that there is no current
+in the Tanganika except such as is caused by the fickle wind.
+
+Finding a snug nook of a bay at a place called Sigunga, we put in for
+lunch. An island at the mouth of the bay suggested to our minds that
+this was a beautiful spot for a mission station; the grandly sloping
+hills in the background, with an undulating shelf of land well-wooded
+between them and the bay, added to the attractions of such a spot.
+The island, capable of containing quite a large village, and perfectly
+defensible, might, for prudence' sake, contain the mission and its
+congregation; the landlocked bay would protect their fishery and trade
+vessels; more than sustain a hundred times the number of the population
+of the island. Wood for building their canoes and houses is close at
+hand; the neighbouring country would afford game in abundance; and the
+docile and civil people of Ukaranga but wait religious shepherds.
+
+From beautiful Sigunga, after a brief halt, we set off, and, after
+three hours, arrived at the mouth of the River Uwelasia. Hippopotami
+and crocodiles being numerous; we amused ourselves by shooting at them,
+having also a hope of attracting the attention of our shore party, the
+sound of whose guns we had not heard since leaving the Rugufu.
+
+On the 3rd of January we left Uwelasia, and, passing by Cape Herembe,
+were in the bay of Tongwe. This bay is about twenty-five miles broad,
+and stretches from Cape Herembe to Cape Tongwe. Finding themselves so
+near their destination, Urimba being but six miles from Herembe Point,
+the men of both boats bent themselves to their oars, and, with shouts,
+songs, and laughter, encouraged each other to do their utmost. The flags
+of the two great Anglo-Saxon nations rippled and played in the soft
+breeze, sometimes drawing near caressingly together, again bending away,
+like two lovers coy to unite. The tight little boat of the Doctor would
+keep ahead, and the crimson and crossed flag of England would wave
+before me, and it seemed to say to the beautiful laggard astern, "Come
+on, come on; England leads the way." But was it not England's place
+to be in the front here? She won the right to it by discovering the
+Tanganika; America came but second.
+
+Urimba, though a large district of Kawendi, has a village of the
+same name peopled by refugees from Yombeh, who found the delta of
+the Loajeri, though the unhealthiest of spots--equal to that of the
+Rusizi--far preferable to the neighbourhood of Sultan Pumburu, of
+Southern Kawendi. A good chase by the victors seems to have given a
+shock to their systems, for they are very timid and distrustful of
+strangers, and would by no means permit us to enter their village, of
+which, to say the truth, I was very glad, after a glance at the
+reeking corruption on which they were encamped. In the immediate
+neighbourhood--nay, for a couple of miles on either side--I should
+suppose that to a white man it were death to sleep a single night.
+Leading the way south of the village, I found a fit camping-place at
+the extreme south-east corner of Tongwe Bay, about a mile and a half due
+west of the lofty peak of Kivanga, or Kakungu. By an observation taken
+by the Doctor, we found ourselves to be in latitude 5 degrees 54 minutes
+south.
+
+None of the natives had heard of our shore party, and, as the delta of
+the Loajeri and Mogambazi extended for about fifteen miles, and withal
+was the most impassable of places, being perfectly flat, overgrown with
+the tallest of matete, eschinomenae, and thorny bush, and flooded with
+water, it was useless to fatigue our men searching for the shore party
+in such an inhospitable country. No provisions were procurable, for the
+villages were in a state of semi-starvation, the inhabitants living from
+hand to mouth on what reluctant Fortune threw into their nets.
+
+The second day of our arrival at Urimba I struck off into the
+interior with my gun-bearer, Kalulu, carrying the Doctor's splendid
+double-barreled rifle (a Reilly, No. 12), on the search for venison.
+After walking about a mile I came to a herd of zebras. By creeping on
+all-fours I managed to come within one hundred yards of them; but I was
+in a bad spot--low prickly shrubs; and tsetse flies alighting on the
+rifle-sight, biting my nose, and dashing into my eyes, completely
+disconcerted me; and, to add to my discontent, my efforts to disengage
+myself from the thorns, alarmed the zebras, which all stood facing the
+suspicious object in the bush. I fired at the breast of one, but, as
+might be expected, missed. The zebras galloped away to about three
+hundred yards off, and I dashed into the open, and, hastily cocking the
+left-hand trigger, aimed at a proud fellow trotting royally before his
+fellows, and by good chance sent a bullet through his heart. A fortunate
+shot also brought down a huge goose, which had a sharp horny spur on
+the fore part of each wing. This supply of meat materially contributed
+towards the provisioning of the party for the transit of the unknown
+land that lay between us and Mrera, in Rusawa, Kawendi.
+
+It was not until the third day of our arrival at our camp at Urimba that
+our shore party arrived. They had perceived our immense flag hoisted on
+a twenty-feet long bamboo above the tallest tree near our camp as they
+surmounted the sharp lofty ridge behind Nerembe, fifteen miles off, and
+had at first taken it for a huge bird; but there were sharp eyes in the
+crowd, and, guided by it, they came to camp, greeted as only lost and
+found men are greeted.
+
+I suffered from another attack of fever at this camp, brought on by the
+neighbourhood of the vile delta, the look of which sickened the very
+heart in me.
+
+On the 7th of January we struck camp, and turned our faces eastward,
+and for me, home! Yet regretfully! There had been enough happiness and
+pleasure, and pleasantest of social companionship found on the shores
+of the lake for me. I had seen enough lovely scenes which, siren-like,
+invited one to quiet rest; gentle scenes, where there was neither jar
+nor tumult, neither strife nor defeat, neither hope nor disappointment,
+but rest-a drowsy, indolent, yet pleasant rest. And only a few drawbacks
+to these. There was fever; there were no books, no newspapers, no wife
+of my own race and blood, no theatres, no hotels, no restaurants, no
+East River oysters, no mince-pies, neither buckwheat cakes, nor anything
+much that was good for a cultivated palate to love. So, in turning to
+say farewell to the then placid lake and the great blue mountains, that
+grew bluer as they receded on either hand, I had the courage to utter
+that awful word tearlessly, and without one sigh.
+
+Our road led up through the valley of the Loajeri, after leaving its
+delta, a valley growing ever narrower, until it narrowed into a ravine
+choked by the now roaring, bellowing river, whose resistless rush seemed
+to affect the very air we breathed. It was getting oppressive, this
+narrowing ravine, and opportunely the road breasted a knoll, then a
+terrace, then a hill, and lastly a mountain, where we halted to encamp.
+As we prepared to select a camping-place, the Doctor silently pointed
+forward, and suddenly a dead silence reigned everywhere. The quinine
+which I had taken in the morning seemed to affect me in every crevice of
+my brain; but a bitter evil remained, and, though I trembled under the
+heavy weight of the Reilly rifle, I crept forward to where the Doctor
+was pointing. I found myself looking down a steep ravine, on the other
+bank of which a fine buffalo cow was scrambling upward. She had just
+reached the summit, and was turning round to survey her enemy, when I
+succeeded in planting a shot just behind the shoulder blade, and close
+to the spine, evoking from her a deep bellow of pain. "She is shot! she
+is shot!" exclaimed the Doctor; "that is a sure sign you have hit her."
+And the men even raised a shout at the prospect of meat. A second,
+planted in her spine, brought her to her knees, and a third ended her.
+We thus had another supply of provisions, which, cut up and dried over
+a fire, as the Wangwana are accustomed to do, would carry them far over
+the unpeopled wilderness before us. For the Doctor and myself, we had
+the tongue, the hump, and a few choice pieces salted down, and in a few
+days had prime corned beef. It is not inapt to state that the rifle had
+more commendations bestowed on it than the hunter by the Wangwana.
+
+The next day we continued the march eastward, under the guidance of
+our kirangozi; but it was evident, by the road he led us, that he knew
+nothing of the country, though, through his volubility, he had led us to
+believe that he knew all about Ngondo, Yombeh, and Pumburu's districts.
+When recalled from the head of the caravan, we were about to descend
+into the rapid Loajeri, and beyond it were three ranges of impassable
+mountains, which we were to cross in a north-easterly direction; quite
+out of our road. After consulting with the Doctor, I put myself at the
+head of the caravan, and following the spine of the ridge, struck off
+due east, regardless of how the road ran. At intervals a travelled road
+crossed our path, and, after following it a while, we came to the ford
+of the Loajeri. The Loajeri rises south and south-east of Kakungu Peak.
+We made the best we could of the road after crossing the river, until
+we reached the main path that runs from Karah to Ngondo and Pumburu, in
+Southern Kawendi.
+
+On the 9th, soon after leaving camp, we left the travelled path, and
+made for a gap in the are of hills before us, as Pumburu was at war with
+the people of Manya Msenge, a district of northern Kawendi. The country
+teemed with game, the buffaloes and zebras were plentiful. Among the
+conspicuous trees were the hyphene and borassus palm trees, and a tree
+bearing a fruit about the size of a 600-pounder cannon-ball, called by
+some natives "mabyah,"* according to the Doctor, the seeds of which are
+roasted and eaten. They are not to be recommended as food to Europeans.
+
+     * In the Kisawahili tongue, "mabyah," "mbyah, "byah," mean
+     bad, unpleasant.
+
+On the 10th, putting myself at the head of my men, with my compass in
+hand, I led the way east for three hours. A beautiful park-land was
+revealed to us; but the grass was very tall, and the rainy season, which
+had commenced in earnest, made my work excessively disagreeable. Through
+this tall grass, which was as high as my throat, I had to force my way,
+compass in hand, to lead the Expedition, as there was not the least sign
+of a road, and we were now in an untravelled country. We made our camp
+on a beautiful little stream flowing north; one of the feeders of the
+Rugufu River.
+
+The 11th still saw me plunging through the grass, which showered drops
+of rain on me every time I made a step forward. In two hours we crossed
+a small stream, with slippery syenitic rocks in its bed, showing the
+action of furious torrents. Mushrooms were in abundance, and very large.
+In crossing, an old pagazi of Unyamwezi, weather-beaten, uttered, in
+a deplorable tone, "My kibuyu is dead;" by which he meant that he had
+slipped, and in falling had broken his gourd, which in Kisawahili is
+"kibuyu."
+
+On the eastern bank we halted for lunch, and, after an hour and a half's
+march, arrived at another stream, which I took to be the Mtambu, at
+first from the similarity of the land, though my map informed me that it
+was impossible. The scenery around was very similar, and to the north we
+had cited a similar tabular hill to the "Magdala" Mount I had discovered
+north of Imrera, while going to the Malagarazi. Though we had only
+travelled three and a half hours the Doctor was very tired as the
+country was exceedingly rough.
+
+The next day, crossing several ranges, with glorious scenes of
+surpassing beauty everywhere around us, we came in view of a mighty and
+swift torrent, whose bed was sunk deep between enormous lofty walls of
+sandstone rock, where it roared and brawled with the noise of a little
+Niagara.
+
+Having seen our camp prepared on a picturesque knoll, I thought I would
+endeavour to procure some meat, which this interesting region seemed to
+promise. I sallied out with my little Winchester along the banks of the
+river eastward. I travelled for an hour or two, the prospect getting
+more picturesque and lovely, and then went up a ravine which looked very
+promising. Unsuccessful, I strode up the bank, and my astonishment may
+be conceived when I found myself directly in front of an elephant, who
+had his large broad ears held out like studding sails--the colossal
+monster, the incarnation of might of the African world. Methought when
+I saw his trunk stretched forward, like a warning finger, that I heard
+a voice say, "Siste, Venator!" But whether it did not proceed from my
+imagination or--No; I believe it proceeded from Kalulu, who must have
+shouted, "Tembo, tembo! bana yango!" "Lo! an elephant! an elephant, my
+master!"
+
+For the young rascal had fled as soon as he had witnessed the awful
+colossus in such close vicinage. Recovering from my astonishment, I
+thought it prudent to retire also--especially, with a pea-shooter loaded
+with treacherous sawdust cartridges in my hand. As I looked behind, I
+saw him waving his trunk, which I understood to mean, "Good-bye, young
+fellow; it is lucky for you you went in time, for I was going to pound
+you to a jelly."
+
+As I was congratulating myself, a wasp darted fiercely at me and planted
+its sting in my neck, and for that afternoon my anticipated pleasures
+were dispelled. Arriving at camp I found the men grumbling; their
+provisions were ended, and there was no prospect for three days, at
+least, of procuring any. With the improvidence usual with the gluttons,
+they had eaten their rations of grain, all their store of zebra and
+dried buffalo meat, and were now crying out that they were famished.
+
+The tracks of animals were numerous, but it being the rainy season the
+game was scattered everywhere; whereas, had we travelled during the dry
+season through these forests our larders might have been supplied fresh
+each day.
+
+Some time about 6 P.M., as the Doctor and I were taking our tea outside
+the tent, a herd of elephants, twelve in number, passed about 800 yards
+off. Our fundi, Asmani and Mabruki Kisesa, were immediately despatched
+in pursuit. I would have gone myself with the heavy Reilly rifle, only
+I was too much fatigued. We soon heard their guns firing, and hoped
+they were successful, as a plentiful supply of meat might then have been
+procured, while we ourselves would have secured one of the elephant's
+feet for a nice delicate roast; but within an hour they returned
+unsuccessful, having only drawn blood, some of which they exhibited to
+us on a leaf.
+
+It requires a very good rifle to kill an African elephant. A No. 8 bore
+with a Frazer's shell, planted in the temple, I believe, would drop an
+elephant each shot. Faulkner makes some extraordinary statements,
+about walking up in front of an elephant and planting a bullet in his
+forehead, killing him instantly. The tale, however, is so incredible
+that I would prefer not to believe it; especially when he states that
+the imprint of the muzzle of his rifle was on the elephant's trunk.
+African travellers--especially those with a taste for the chase--are too
+fond of relating that which borders on the incredible for ordinary men
+to believe them. Such stories must be taken with a large grain of salt,
+for the sake of the amusement they afford to readers at home. In future,
+whenever I hear a man state how he broke the back of an antelope at 600
+yards, I shall incline to believe a cipher had been added by a slip of
+the pen, or attribute it to a typographical error, for this is almost an
+impossible feat in an African forest. It may be done once, but it could
+never be done twice running. An antelope makes a very small target at
+600 yards distance; but, then, all these stories belong by right divine
+to the chasseur who travels to Africa for the sake only of sport.
+
+On the 13th we continued our march across several ridges; and the series
+of ascents and descents revealed to us valleys and mountains never
+before explored streams; rushing northward, swollen by the rains, and
+grand primeval forests, in whose twilight shade no white man ever walked
+before.
+
+On the 14th the same scenes were witnessed--an unbroken series of
+longitudinal ridges, parallel one with another and with Lake Tanganika.
+Eastward the faces of these ridges present abrupt scarps and terraces,
+rising from deep valleys, while the western declivities have gradual
+slopes. These are the peculiar features of Ukawendi, the eastern
+watershed of the Tanganika.
+
+In one of these valleys on this day we came across a colony of
+reddish-bearded monkeys, whose howls, or bellowing, rang amongst the
+cliffs as they discovered the caravan. I was not able to approach
+them, for they scrambled up trees and barked their defiance at me, then
+bounded to the ground as I still persisted in advancing; and they would
+have soon drawn me in pursuit if I had not suddenly remembered that my
+absence was halting the Expedition.
+
+About noon we sighted our Magdala--the grand towering mount whose
+upright frowning mass had attracted our eyes, as it lifted itself from
+above the plain in all its grandeur, when we were hurrying along the
+great ridge of Rusawa towards the "Crocodile" River. We recognised
+the old, mystic beauty of the tree-clad plain around it. Then it
+was bleached, and a filmy haze covered it lovingly; now it was vivid
+greenness. Every vegetable, plant, herb and tree, had sprung into quick
+life--the effect of the rains. Rivers that ran not in those hot summer
+days now fumed and rushed impetuously between thick belts of mighty
+timber, brawling hoarsely in the glades. We crossed many of these
+streams, all of which are feeders of the Rugufu.
+
+Beautiful, bewitching Ukawendi! By what shall I gauge the loveliness of
+the wild, free, luxuriant, spontaneous nature within its boundaries? By
+anything in Europe? No. By anything in Asia? Where? India, perhaps. Yes;
+or say Mingrelia and Imeritia. For there we have foaming rivers; we have
+picturesque hillocks; we have bold hills, ambitious mountains, and broad
+forests, with lofty solemn rows of trees, with clean straight stems,
+through which you can see far, lengthy vistas, as you see here. Only in
+Ukawendi you can almost behold the growth of vegetation; the earth is
+so generous, nature so kind and loving, that without entertaining any
+aspiration for a residence, or a wish to breathe the baleful atmosphere
+longer than is absolutely necessary, one feels insensibly drawn towards
+it, as the thought creeps into his mind, that though all is foul beneath
+the captivating, glamorous beauty of the land, the foulness might be
+removed by civilized people, and the whole region made as healthy as
+it is productive. Even while staggering under the pressure of the awful
+sickness, with mind getting more and more embittered, brain sometimes
+reeling with the shock of the constantly recurring fevers--though I
+knew how the malaria, rising out of that very fairness, was slowly
+undermining my constitution, and insidiously sapping the powers of mind
+and body--I regarded the alluring face of the land with a fatuous love,
+and felt a certain sadness steal over me as each day I was withdrawing
+myself from it, and felt disposed to quarrel with the fate that seemed
+to eject me out of Ukawendi.
+
+On the ninth day of our march from the shores of the Tanganika we
+again perceived our "Magdala Mount," rising like a dark cloud to the
+north-east, by which I knew that we were approaching Imrera, and that
+our Icarian attempt to cross the uninhabited jungle of Ukawendi would
+soon be crowned with success. Against the collective counsel of the
+guides, and hypothetical suggestions of the tired and hungry souls of
+our Expedition, I persisted in being guided only by the compass and my
+chart. The guides strenuously strove to induce me to alter my course and
+strike in a south-west direction, which, had I listened to them, would
+have undoubtedly taken me to South-western Ukonongo, or North-eastern
+Ufipa. The veteran and experienced soldiers asked mournfully if I were
+determined to kill them with famine, as the road I should have taken
+was north-east; but I preferred putting my trust in the compass. No sun
+shone upon us as we threaded our way through the primeval forest, by
+clumps of jungle, across streams, up steep ridges, and down into deep
+valleys. A thick haze covered the forests; rain often pelted us; the
+firmament was an unfathomable depth of grey vapour. The Doctor had
+perfect confidence in me, and I held on my way.
+
+As soon as we arrived at our camp the men scattered themselves through
+the forest to search for food. A grove of singwe trees was found close
+by. Mushrooms grew in abundance, and these sufficed to appease the
+gnawing hunger from which the people suffered. Had it not been such
+rainy weather I should have been enabled to procure game for the camp;
+but the fatigue which I suffered, and the fever which enervated me,
+utterly prevented me from moving out of the camp after we once came to
+a halt. The fear of lions, which were numerous in our vicinity, whose
+terrible roaring was heard by day and by night, daunted the hunters so
+much, that though I offered five doti of cloth for every animal brought
+to camp, none dared penetrate the gloomy glades, or awesome belts of
+timber, outside the friendly defence of the camp.
+
+The morning of the tenth day I assured the people that we were close
+to food; cheered the most amiable of them with promise of abundant
+provender, and hushed the most truculent knaves with a warning not to
+tempt my patience too much, lest we came to angry blows; and then
+struck away east by north through the forest, with the almost exhausted
+Expedition dragging itself weakly and painfully behind me. It was a most
+desperate position certainly, and I pitied the poor people far more than
+they pitied themselves; and though I fumed and stormed in their presence
+when they were disposed to lie down and give up, never was a man
+further from doing them injury. I was too proud of them; but under the
+circumstances it was dangerous--nay, suicidal--to appear doubtful or
+dubious of the road. The mere fact that I still held on my way according
+to the Doctor's little pearly monitor (the compass) had a grand moral
+effect on them, and though they demurred in plaintive terms and with
+pinched faces, they followed my footsteps with a trustfulness which
+quite affected me.
+
+For long miles we trudged over smooth sloping sward, with a vision of
+forest and park-land beauty on our right and left, and in front of us
+such as is rarely seen. At a pace that soon left the main body of the
+Expedition far behind, I strode on with a few gallant fellows, who,
+despite their heavy loads, kept pace with me. After a couple of hours we
+were ascending the easy slope of a ridge, which promised to decide in
+a few minutes the truth or the inaccuracy of my chart. Presently we
+arrived at the eastern edge of the ridge, and about five miles away, and
+1,000 feet below the high plateau on which we stood, we distinguished
+the valley of Imrera!
+
+By noon we were in our old camp. The natives gathered round, bringing
+supplies of food, and to congratulate us upon having gone to Ujiji
+and returned. But it was long before the last member of the Expedition
+arrived. The Doctor's feet were very sore, bleeding from the weary
+march. His shoes were in a very worn-out state, and he had so cut and
+slashed them with a knife to ease his blistered feet, that any man of
+our force would have refused them as a gift, no matter how ambitious he
+might be to encase his feet a la Wasungu.
+
+Asmani, the guide, was very much taken aback when he discovered that the
+tiny compass knew the way better than he did, and he declared it as his
+solemn opinion that it could not lie. He suffered much in reputation
+from having contested the palm with the "little thing," and ever
+afterwards his boasted knowledge of the country was considerably
+doubted.
+
+After halting a day to recruit ourselves, we continued our journey on
+the 18th January, 1872, towards Unyanyembe. A few miles beyond Imrera,
+Asmani lost the road again, and I was obliged to show it to him, by
+which I gained additional honour and credit as a leader and guide. My
+shoes were very bad, and it was difficult to decide whose were the worst
+in condition, the Doctor's or mine. A great change had come upon the
+face of the land since I had passed northward en route to Ujiji. The
+wild grapes now hung in clusters along the road; the corn ears were
+advanced enough to pluck and roast for food; the various plants shed
+their flowers; and the deep woods and grasses of the country were
+greener than ever.
+
+On the 19th we arrived at Mpokwa's deserted village. The Doctor's feet
+were very much chafed and sore by the marching. He had walked on foot
+all the way from Urimba, though he owned a donkey; while I, considerably
+to my shame be it said, had ridden occasionally to husband my strength,
+that I might be enabled to hunt after arrival at camp.
+
+Two huts were cleared for our use, but, just as we had made ourselves
+comfortable, our sharp-eyed fellows had discovered several herds of game
+in the plain west of Mpokwa. Hastily devouring a morsel of corn-bread
+with coffee, I hastened away, with Bilali for a gunbearer, taking
+with me the famous Reilly rifle of the Doctor and a supply of Fraser's
+shells. After plunging through a deep stream, and getting wet again,
+and pushing my way through a dense brake, I arrived at a thin belt of
+forest, through which I was obliged to crawl, and, in half an hour, I
+had arrived within one hundred and forty yards of a group of zebras,
+which were playfully biting each other under the shade of a large tree.
+Suddenly rising up, I attracted their attention; but the true old rifle
+was at my shoulder, and "crack--crack" went both barrels, and two fine
+zebras, a male and female, fell dead under the tree where they had
+stood. In a few seconds their throats were cut, and after giving the
+signal of my success, I was soon surrounded by a dozen of my men, who
+gave utterance to their delight by fulsome compliments to the merits of
+the rifle, though very few to me. When I returned to camp with the meat
+I received the congratulations of the Doctor, which I valued far higher,
+as he knew from long experience what shooting was.
+
+When the eatable portions of the two zebras were hung to the scale, we
+found, according to the Doctor's own figures, that we had 719 lbs. of
+good meat, which, divided among forty-four men, gave a little over
+16 lbs. to each person. Bombay, especially, was very happy, as he had
+dreamed a dream wherein I figured prominently as shooting animals down
+right and left; and, when he had seen me depart with that wonderful
+Reilly rifle he had not entertained a doubt of my success, and,
+accordingly, had commanded the men to be ready to go after me, as soon
+as they should hear the reports of the gun.
+
+The following is quoted from my Diary:
+
+January 20th, 1872.--To-day was a halt. On going out for a hunt I saw
+a herd of eleven giraffes. After crossing Mpokwa stream I succeeded in
+getting within one hundred and fifty yards of one of them, and fired at
+it; but, though it was wounded, I did not succeed in dropping it, though
+I desired the skin of one of them very much.
+
+In the afternoon I went out to the east of the village, and came to a
+herd of six giraffes. I wounded one of them, but it got off, despite my
+efforts.
+
+What remarkable creatures they are! How beautiful their large limpid
+eyes! I could have declared on oath that both shots had been a success,
+but they sheered off with the stately movements of a clipper about to
+tack. When they ran they had an ungainly, dislocated motion, somewhat
+like the contortions of an Indian nautch or a Theban danseuse--a dreamy,
+undulating movement, which even the tail, with its long fringe of black
+hair, seemed to partake of.
+
+The Doctor, who knew how to console an ardent but disappointed young
+hunter, attributed my non-success to shooting with leaden balls, which
+were too soft to penetrate the thick hide of the giraffes, and advised
+me to melt my zinc canteens with which to harden the lead. It was
+not the first time that I had cause to think the Doctor an admirable
+travelling companion; none knew so well how to console one for bad luck
+none knew so well how to elevate one in his own mind. If I killed a
+zebra, did not his friend Oswell--the South African hunter--and himself
+long ago come to the conclusion that zebra meat was the finest in
+Africa? If I shot a buffalo cow, she was sure to be the best of her
+kind, and her horns were worth while carrying home as specimens; and was
+she not fat? If I returned without anything, the game was very wild, or
+the people had made a noise, and the game had been frightened; and who
+could stalk animals already alarmed? Indeed, he was a most considerate
+companion, and, knowing him to be literally truthful, I was proud of his
+praise when successful, and when I failed I was easily consoled.
+
+Ibrahim, the old pagazi whose feelings had been so lacerated in
+Ukawendi, when his ancient kibuyu broke, before leaving Ujiji invested
+his cloth in a slave from Manyuema, who bore the name of "Ulimengo,"
+which signifies the "World." As we approached Mpokwa, Ulimengo absconded
+with all his master's property, consisting of a few cloths and a bag of
+salt, which he had thought of taking to Unyanyembe for trade. Ibrahim
+was inconsolable, and he kept lamenting his loss daily in such
+lugubrious tones that the people, instead of sympathizing, laughed at
+him. I asked him why he purchased such a slave, and, while he was with
+him, why he did not feed him? Replied he, tartly, "Was he not my slave?
+Was not the cloth with which I bought him mine? If the cloth was my own,
+could I not purchase what I liked? Why do you talk so?"
+
+Ibrahim's heart was made glad this evening by the return of Ulimengo
+with the salt and the cloth, and the one-eyed old man danced with his
+great joy, and came in all haste to impart to me the glad news. "Lo,
+the 'World' has come back. Sure. My salt and my cloth are with him also.
+Sure." To which I replied, that he had better feed him in future, as
+slaves required food as well as their masters.
+
+From 10 P.M. to midnight the Doctor was employed in taking observations
+from the star Canopus, the result of which was that he ascertained
+Mpokwa, district of Utanda, Ukonongo, to be in S. latitude 6 degrees 18
+minutes 40 seconds. On comparing it with its position as laid down in my
+map by dead reckoning, I found we differed by three miles; I having laid
+it down at 6 degrees 15 minutes south latitude.
+
+The day following was a halt. The Doctor's feet were so inflamed and
+sore that he could not bear his shoes on. My heels were also raw, and I
+viciously cut large circles out of my shoes to enable me to move about.
+
+Having converted my zinc canteens into bullets, and provided myself with
+a butcher and gun-bearer, I set out for the lovely park-land and plain
+west of Mpokwa stream, with the laudable resolution to obtain something;
+and seeing nothing in the plain, I crossed over a ridge, and came to
+a broad basin covered with tall grass, with clumps here and there of
+hyphene palm, with a stray mimosa or so scattered about. Nibbling off
+the branches of the latter, I saw a group of giraffes, and then
+began stalking them through the grass, taking advantage of the tall
+grass-grown ant-hills that I might approach the wary beasts before their
+great eyes could discover me. I contrived to come within 175 yards, by
+means of one of these curious hummocks; but beyond it no man could crawl
+without being observed--the grass was so thin and short. I took a long
+breath, wiped my perspiring brow, and sat down for a while; my black
+assistants also, like myself, were almost breathless with the exertion,
+and the high expectations roused by the near presence of the royal
+beasts. I toyed lovingly with the heavy Reilly, saw to my cartridges,
+and then stood up and turned, with my rifle ready; took one good, long,
+steady aim; then lowered it again to arrange the sights, lifted it up
+once more--dropped it. A giraffe half turned his body; for the last time
+I lifted it, took one quick sight at the region of the heart, and
+fired. He staggered, reeled, then made a short gallop; but the blood was
+spouting from the wound in a thick stream, and before he had gone 200
+yards he came to a dead halt, with his ears drawn back, and allowed
+me to come within twenty yards of him, when, receiving a zinc bullet
+through the head, he fell dead.
+
+"Allah ho, akhbar!" cried Khamisi, my butcher, fervently. "This is meat,
+master!"
+
+I was rather saddened than otherwise at seeing the noble animal
+stretched before me. If I could have given him his life back I think
+I should have done so. I thought it a great pity that such splendid
+animals, so well adapted for the service of man in Africa, could not
+be converted to some other use than that of food. Horses, mules, and
+donkeys died in these sickly regions; but what a blessing for Africa
+would it be if we could tame the giraffes and zebras for the use of
+explorers and traders! Mounted on a zebra, a man would be enabled to
+reach Ujiji in one month from Bagamoyo; whereas it took me over seven
+months to travel that distance!
+
+The dead giraffe measured 16 feet 9 inches from his right fore-hoof to
+the top of his head, and was one of the largest size, though some have
+been found to measure over 17 feet. He was spotted all over with large
+black, nearly round, patches.
+
+I left Khamisi in charge of the dead beast, while I returned to camp
+to send off men to cut it up, and convey the meat to our village. But
+Khamisi climbed a tree for fear of the lions, and the vultures settled
+on it, so that when the men arrived on the spot, the eyes, the tongue,
+and a great part of the posteriors were eaten up. What remained weighed
+as follows, when brought in and hung to the scales:
+
+1 hind leg.... 134 lbs.
+
+1 " .... 136 "
+
+1 fore leg.... 160 "
+
+I " .... 160 "
+
+Ribs...... 158 "
+
+Neck...... 74 "
+
+Rump...... 87 "
+
+Breast..... 46 "
+
+Liver..... 20 "
+
+Lungs..... 12 "
+
+Heart..... 6 "
+
+Total weight of eatable portions.. 993 lbs.
+
+Skin and head, 181 lbs.
+
+The three days following I suffered from a severe attack of fever, and
+was unable to stir from bed. I applied my usual remedies for it, which
+consisted of colocynth and quinine; but experience has shown me that
+an excessive use of the same cathartic weakens its effect, and that it
+would be well for travellers to take with them different medicines to
+cause proper action in the liver, such as colocynth, calomel, resin
+of jalap, Epsom salts; and that no quinine should be taken until such
+medicines shall have prepared the system for its reception.
+
+The Doctor's prescription for fever consists of 3 grains of resin of
+jalap, and 2 grains of calomel, with tincture of cardamoms put in just
+enough to prevent irritation of the stomach--made into the form of a
+pill--which is to be taken as soon as one begins to feel the excessive
+languor and weariness which is the sure forerunner of the African type
+of fever. An hour or two later a cup of coffee, unsugared and without
+milk, ought to be taken, to cause a quicker action. The Doctor
+also thinks that quinine should be taken with the pill; but my
+experience--though it weighs nothing against what he has endured--has
+proved to me that quinine is useless until after the medicine has taken
+effect. My stomach could never bear quinine unless subsequent to
+the cathartic. A well-known missionary at Constantinople recommends
+travellers to take 3 grains of tartar-emetic for the ejection of the
+bilious matter in the stomach; but the reverend doctor possibly forgets
+that much more of the system is disorganized than the stomach; and
+though in one or two cases of a slight attack, this remedy may have
+proved successful, it is altogether too violent for an enfeebled man in
+Africa. I have treated myself faithfully after this method three or
+four times; but I could not conscientiously recommend it. For cases of
+urticaria, I could recommend taking 3 grains of tartar-emetic; but then
+a stomach-pump would answer the purpose as well.
+
+On the 27th we set out for Misonghi. About half-way I saw the head of
+the Expedition on the run, and the motive seemed to be communicated
+quickly, man after man, to those behind, until my donkey commenced to
+kick, and lash behind with his heels. In a second, I was made aware of
+the cause of this excitement, by a cloud of wild bees buzzing about
+my head, three or four of which settled on my face, and stung me
+frightfully. We raced madly for about half a mile, behaving in as wild a
+manner as the poor bestung animals.
+
+As this was an unusually long march, I doubted if the Doctor could march
+it, because his feet were so sore, so I determined to send four men
+back with the kitanda; but the stout old hero refused to be carried, and
+walked all the way to camp after a march of eighteen miles. He had been
+stung dreadfully in the head and in the face; the bees had settled in
+handfuls in his hair; but, after partaking of a cup of warm tea and some
+food, he was as cheerful as if he had never travelled a mile.
+
+At Mrera, Central Ukonongo, we halted a day to grind grain, and
+to prepare the provision we should need during the transit of the
+wilderness between Mrera and Manyara.
+
+On the 31st of January, at Mwaru, Sultan Ka-mirambo, we met a caravan
+under the leadership of a slave of Sayd bin Habib, who came to visit us
+in our camp, which was hidden in a thick clump of jungle. After he was
+seated, and had taken his coffee, I asked,
+
+"What is thy news, my friend, that thou bast brought from Unyanyembe?"
+
+"My news is good, master."
+
+"How goes the war?"
+
+"Ah, Mirambo is where? He eats the hides even. He is famished. Sayd bin
+Habib, my master, hath possession of Kirira. The Arabs are thundering at
+the gates of Wilyankuru. Sayd bin Majid, who came from Ujiji to Usagozi
+in twenty days, hath taken and slain 'Moto' (Fire), the King. Simba
+of Kasera hath taken up arms for the defence of his father, Mkasiwa of
+Unyanyembe. The chief of Ugunda hath sent five hundred men to the field.
+Ough--Mirambo is where? In a month he will be dead of hunger."
+
+"Great and good news truly, my friend."
+
+"Yes-in the name of God."
+
+"And whither art thou bound with thy caravan?"
+
+"Sayd, the son of Majid, who came from Ujiji, hath told us of the road
+that the white man took, that he had arrived at Ujiji safely, and that
+he was on his way back to Unyanyembe. So we have thought that if the
+white man could go there, we could also. Lo, the Arabs come by the
+hundred by the white man's road, to get the ivory from Ujiji.
+
+"I am that white man."
+
+"You?"
+
+"Yes."
+
+"Why it was reported that you were dead--that you fought with the
+Wazavira."
+
+"Ah, my friend, these are the words of Njara, the son of Khamis. See"
+(pointing to Livingstone), "this is the white man, my father *, whom I
+saw at Ujiji. He is going with me to Unyanyembe to get his cloth, after
+which he will return to the great waters."
+
+     * It is a courteous custom in Africa to address elderly
+     people as "Baba," (Father.)
+
+"Wonderful!--thou sayest truly."
+
+"What has thou to tell me of the white man at Unyanyembe?"
+
+"Which white man?"
+
+"The white man I left in the house of Sayd, the son of Salim--my
+house--at Kwihara."
+
+"He is dead."
+
+"Dead!"
+
+"True."
+
+"You do not mean to say the white man is dead?"
+
+"True--he is dead."
+
+"How long ago?"
+
+"Many months now."
+
+"What did he die of?"
+
+"Homa (fever)."
+
+"Any more of my people dead?"
+
+"I know not."
+
+"Enough." I looked sympathetically at the Doctor, and he replied,
+
+"I told you so. When you described him to me as a drunken man, I knew he
+could not live. Men who have been habitual drunkards cannot live in
+this country, any more than men who have become slaves to other vices.
+I attribute the deaths that occurred in my expedition on the Zambezi to
+much the same cause."
+
+"Ah, Doctor, there are two of us gone. I shall be the third, if this
+fever lasts much longer."
+
+"Oh no, not at all. If you would have died from fever, you would have
+died at Ujiji when you had that severe attack of remittent. Don't think
+of it. Your fever now is only the result of exposure to wet. I never
+travel during the wet season. This time I have travelled because I was
+anxious, and I did not wish to detain you at Ujiji."
+
+"Well, there is nothing like a good friend at one's back in this country
+to encourage him, and keep his spirits up. Poor Shaw! I am sorry--very
+sorry for him. How many times have I not endeavoured to cheer him up!
+But there was no life in him. And among the last words I said to him,
+before parting, were, 'Remember, if you return to Unyanyembe, you die!'"
+
+We also obtained news from the chief of Sayd bin Habib's caravan that
+several packets of letters and newspapers, and boxes, had arrived for me
+from Zanzibar by my messengers and Arabs; that Selim, the son of Sheikh
+Hashid of Zanzibar, was amongst the latest arrivals in Unyanyembe. The
+Doctor also reminded me with the utmost good-nature that, according to
+his accounts, he had a stock of jellies and crackers, soups, fish, and
+potted ham, besides cheese, awaiting him in Unyanyembe, and that he
+would be delighted to share his good things; whereupon I was greatly
+cheered, and, during the repeated attacks of fever I suffered about this
+time, my imagination loved to dwell upon the luxuries at Unyanyembe.
+I pictured myself devouring the hams and crackers and jellies like a
+madman. I lived on my raving fancies. My poor vexed brain rioted on such
+homely things as wheaten bread and butter, hams, bacon, caviare, and I
+would have thought no price too high to pay for them. Though so far
+away and out of the pale of Europe and America, it was a pleasure to
+me, during the _athumia_ or despondency into which I was plunged by ever
+recurring fevers, to dwell upon them. I wondered that people who had
+access to such luxuries should ever get sick, and become tired of life.
+I thought that if a wheaten loaf with a nice pat of fresh butter were
+presented to me, I would be able, though dying, to spring up and dance a
+wild fandango.
+
+Though we lacked the good things of this life above named, we possessed
+salted giraffe and pickled zebra tongues; we had ugali made by Halimah
+herself; we had sweet potatoes, tea, coffee, dampers, or slap jacks; but
+I was tired of them. My enfeebled stomach, harrowed and irritated with
+medicinal compounds, with ipecac, colocynth, tartar-emetic, quinine,
+and such things, protested against the coarse food. "Oh, for a wheaten
+loaf!" my soul cried in agony. "Five hundred dollars for one loaf of
+bread!"
+
+The Doctor, somehow or another, despite the incessant rain, the dew,
+fog, and drizzle, the marching, and sore feet, ate like a hero, and I
+manfully, sternly, resolved to imitate the persevering attention he paid
+to the welfare of his gastric powers; but I miserably failed.
+
+Dr. Livingstone possesses all the attainments of a traveller. His
+knowledge is great about everything concerning Africa--the rocks, the
+trees, the fruits, and their virtues, are known to him. He is also full
+of philosophic reflections upon ethnological matter. With camp-craft,
+with its cunning devices, he is au fait. His bed is luxurious as a
+spring mattress. Each night he has it made under his own supervision.
+First, he has two straight poles cut, three or four inches in diameter;
+which are laid parallel one with another, at the distance of two feet;
+across these poles are laid short sticks, saplings, three feet long,
+and over them is laid a thick pile of grass; then comes a piece of
+waterproof canvas and blankets--and thus a bed has been improvised fit
+for a king.
+
+It was at Livingstone's instigation I purchased milch goats, by which,
+since leaving Ujiji, we have had a supply of fresh milk for our tea
+and coffee three times a day. Apropos of this, we are great drinkers of
+these welcome stimulants; we seldom halt drinking until we have each
+had six or seven cups. We have also been able to provide ourselves with
+music, which, though harsh, is better than none. I mean the musical
+screech of parrots from Manyuema.
+
+Half-way between Mwaru--Kamirambo's village--and the deserted Tongoni of
+Ukamba, I carved the Doctor's initials and my own on a large tree, with
+the date February 2nd. I have been twice guilty of this in Africa once
+when we were famishing in Southern Uvinza I inscribed the date, my
+initials, and the word "Starving," in large letters on the trunk of a
+sycamore.
+
+In passing through the forest of Ukamba, we saw the bleached skull of
+an unfortunate victim to the privations of travel. Referring to it, the
+Doctor remarked that he could never pass through an African forest, with
+its solemn stillness and serenity, without wishing to be buried quietly
+under the dead leaves, where he would be sure to rest undisturbed. In
+England there was no elbow-room, the graves were often desecrated; and
+ever since he had buried his wife in the woods of Shupanga he had sighed
+for just such a spot, where his weary bones would receive the eternal
+rest they coveted.
+
+The same evening, when the tent door was down, and the interior was made
+cheerful by the light of a paraffin candle, the Doctor related to me
+some incidents respecting the career and the death of his eldest son,
+Robert. Readers of Livingstone's first book, 'South Africa,' without
+which no boy should be, will probably recollect the dying Sebituane's
+regard for the little boy "Robert." Mrs. Livingstone and family were
+taken to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence sent to England, where Robert
+was put in the charge of a tutor; but wearied of inactivity, when he
+was about eighteen, he left Scotland and came to Natal, whence he
+endeavoured to reach his father. Unsuccessful in his attempt, he took
+ship and sailed for New York, and enlisted in the Northern Army, in a
+New Hampshire regiment of Volunteers, discarding his own name of Robert
+Moffatt Livingstone, and taking that of Rupert Vincent that his tutor,
+who seems to have been ignorant of his duties to the youth, might not
+find him. From one of the battles before Richmond, he was conveyed to a
+North Carolina hospital, where he died from his wounds.
+
+On the 7th of February we arrived at the Gombe, and camped near one of
+its largest lakes. This lake is probably several miles in length, and
+swarms with hippopotami and crocodiles.
+
+From this camp I despatched Ferajji, the cook, and Chowpereh to
+Unyanyembe, to bring the letters and medicines that were sent to me from
+Zanzibar, and meet us at Ugunda, while the next day we moved to our
+old quarters on the Gombe, where we were first introduced to the real
+hunter's paradise in Central Africa. The rain had scattered the greater
+number of the herds, but there was plenty of game in the vicinity. Soon
+after breakfast I took Khamisi and Kalulu with me for a hunt. After a
+long walk we arrived near a thin jungle, where I discovered the tracks
+of several animals--boar, antelope, elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus,
+and an unusual number of imprints of the lion's paw. Suddenly I heard
+Khamisi say, "Master, master! here is a 'simba!' (lion);" and he came
+up to me trembling with excitement and fear--for the young fellow was
+an arrant coward--to point out the head of a beast, which could be seen
+just above the tall grass, looking steadily towards us. It immediately
+afterwards bounded from side to side, but the grass was so high that it
+was impossible to tell exactly what it was. Taking advantage of a tree
+in my front, I crept quietly onwards, intending to rest the heavy rifle
+against it, as I was so weak from the effects of several fevers that I
+felt myself utterly incapable of supporting my rifle for a steady aim.
+But my surprise was great when I cautiously laid it against the tree,
+and then directed its muzzle to the spot where I had seen him stand.
+Looking further away--to where the grass was thin and scant--I saw the
+animal bound along at a great rate, and that it was a lion: the noble
+monarch of the forest was in full flight! From that moment I ceased to
+regard him as the "mightiest among the brutes;" or his roar as anything
+more fearful in broad daylight than a sucking dove's.
+
+The next day was also a halt, and unable to contain my longing for the
+chase, where there used to be such a concourse of game of all kinds,
+soon after morning coffee, and after despatching a couple of men with
+presents to my friend Ma-manyara, of ammonia-bottle memory, I sauntered
+out once more for the park. Not five hundred yards from the camp, myself
+and men were suddenly halted by hearing in our immediate vicinity,
+probably within fifty yards or so, a chorus of roars, issuing from a
+triplet of lions. Instinctively my fingers raised the two hammers, as
+I expected a general onset on me; for though one lion might fly, it
+was hardly credible that three should. While looking keenly about I
+detected, within easy rifle-shot, a fine hartebeest, trembling and
+cowering behind a tree, as if it expected the fangs of the lion in its
+neck. Though it had its back turned to me, I thought a bullet might
+plough its way to a vital part, and without a moment's hesitation I
+aimed and fired. The animal gave a tremendous jump, as if it intended
+to take a flying leap through the tree; but recovering itself it dashed
+through the underbrush in a different direction from that in which I
+supposed the lions to be, and I never saw it again, though I knew I
+had struck it from the bloody trail it left; neither did I see nor hear
+anything more of the lions. I searched far and wide over the park-land
+for prey of some kind, but was compelled to return unsuccessful to camp.
+
+Disgusted with my failure, we started a little after noon for Manyara,
+at which place we were hospitably greeted by my friend, who had sent men
+to tell me that his white brother must not halt in the woods but must
+come to his village. We received a present of honey and food from
+the chief, which was most welcome to us in our condition. Here was an
+instance of that friendly disposition among Central African chiefs when
+they have not been spoiled by the Arabs, which Dr. Livingstone found
+among the Babisa and Ba-ulungu, and in Manyuema. I received the same
+friendly recognition from all the chiefs, from Imrera, in Ukawendi, to
+Unyanyembe, as I did from Mamanyara.
+
+On the 14th we arrived at Ugunda, and soon after we had established
+ourselves comfortably in a hut which the chief lent us for our use, in
+came Ferajji and Chowpereh, bringing with them Sarmean and Uledi
+Manwa Sera, who, it will be recollected, were the two soldiers sent
+to Zanzibar with letters and who should Sarmean have in charge but the
+deserter Hamdallah, who decamped at Manyara, as we were going to Ujiji.
+This fellow, it seems, had halted at Kigandu, and had informed the chief
+and the doctor of the village that he had been sent by the white man to
+take back the cloth left there for the cure of Mabruk Saleem; and the
+simple chief had commanded it to be given up to him upon his mere word,
+in consequence of which the sick man had died.
+
+Upon Sarmean's arrival in Unyanyembe from Zanzibar, about fifty days
+after the Expedition had departed for Ujiji the news he received was
+that the white man (Shaw) was dead; and that a man called Hamdallah,
+who had engaged himself as one of my guides, but who had shortly after
+returned, was at Unyanyembe. He had left him unmolested until the
+appearance of Ferajji and his companion, when they at once, in a body,
+made a descent on his hut and secured him. With the zeal which always
+distinguished him in my service, Sarmean had procured a forked pole,
+between the prongs of which the neck of the absconder was placed; and
+a cross stick, firmly lashed, effectually prevented him from relieving
+himself of the incumbrance attached to him so deftly.
+
+There were no less than seven packets of letters and newspapers from
+Zanzibar, which had been collecting during my absence from Unyanyembe.
+These had been intrusted at various times to the chiefs of caravans, who
+had faithfully delivered them at my tembe, according to their promise
+to the Consul. There was one packet for me, which contained two or
+three letters for Dr. Livingstone, to whom, of course, they were at once
+transferred, with my congratulations. In the same packet there was also
+a letter to me from the British Consul at Zanzibar requesting me to take
+charge of Livingstone's goods and do the best I could to forward them on
+to him, dated 25th September, 1871, five days after I left Unyanyembe on
+my apparently hopeless task.
+
+"Well, Doctor," said I to Livingstone, "the English Consul requests me
+to do all I can to push forward your goods to you. I am sorry that I did
+not get the authority sooner, for I should have attempted it; but in the
+absence of these instructions I have done the best I could by pushing
+you towards the goods. The mountain has not been able to advance
+towards Mohammed, but Mohammed has been compelled to advance towards the
+mountain."
+
+But Dr. Livingstone was too deeply engrossed in his own letters from
+home, which were just a year old.
+
+I received good and bad news from New York, but the good news was
+subsequent, and wiped out all feelings that might have been evoked had I
+received the bad only. But the newspapers, nearly a hundred of them, New
+York, Boston, and London journals, were full of most wonderful news. The
+Paris Commune was in arms against the National Assembly; the Tuileries,
+the Louvre, and the ancient city Lutetia Parisiorum had been set in
+flames by the blackguards of Saint-Antoine! French troops massacring
+and murdering men, women, and children; rampant diabolism, and incarnate
+revenge were at work in the most beautiful city in the world! Fair women
+converted into demons, and dragged by ruffianly soldiery through the
+streets to universal execration and pitiless death; children of tender
+age pinned to the earth and bayoneted; men innocent or not, shot, cut,
+stabbed, slashed, destroyed--a whole city given up to the summa injuria
+of an infuriate, reckless, and brutal army! Oh France! Oh Frenchmen!
+Such things are unknown even in the heart of barbarous Central Africa.
+We spurned the newspapers with our feet; and for relief to sickened
+hearts gazed on the comic side of our world, as illustrated in the
+innocent pages of 'Punch.' Poor 'Punch!' good-hearted, kindly-natured
+'Punch!' a traveller's benison on thee! Thy jokes were as physic; thy
+innocent satire was provocative of hysteric mirth.
+
+Our doors were crowded with curious natives, who looked with
+indescribable wonder at the enormous sheets. I heard them repeat the
+words, "Khabari Kisungu"--white man's news--often, and heard them
+discussing the nature of such a quantity of news, and expressing their
+belief that the "Wasungu" were "mbyah sana," and very "mkali;" by which
+they meant to say that the white men were very wicked, and very smart
+and clever though the term wicked is often employed to express high
+admiration.
+
+On the fourth day from Ugunda, or the 18th of February, and the
+fifty-third day from Ujiji, we made our appearance with flags flying
+and guns firing in the valley of Kwihara, and when the Doctor and myself
+passed through the portals of my old quarters I formally welcomed him to
+Unyanyembe and to my house.
+
+Since the day I had left the Arabs, sick and, weary almost with my
+life, but, nevertheless, imbued with the high hope that my mission would
+succeed, 131 days had elapsed--with what vicissitudes of fortune the
+reader well knows--during which time I had journeyed over 1,200 miles.
+
+The myth after which I travelled through the wilderness proved to be
+a fact; and never was the fact more apparent than when the Living Man
+walked with me arm in arm to my old room, and I said to him, "Doctor, we
+are at last HOME!"
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV. -- HOMEWARD BOUND.--LIVINGSTONE'S LAST WORDS--THE FINAL
+FAREWELL
+
+
+Unyanyembe was now to me a terrestrial Paradise. Livingstone was no less
+happy; he was in comfortable quarters, which were a palace compared to
+his hut in Ujiji. Our store-rooms were full of the good things of this
+life, besides cloth, beads, wire, and the thousand and one impedimenta
+and paraphernalia of travel with which I had loaded over one hundred and
+fifty men at Bagamoyo. I had seventy-four loads of miscellaneous things,
+the most valuable of which were now to be turned over to Livingstone,
+for his march back to the sources of the Nile.
+
+It was a great day with, us when, with hammer and chisel, I broke open
+the Doctor's boxes, that we might feast our famished stomachs on the
+luxuries which were to redeem us from the effect of the cacotrophic
+dourra and maize food we had been subjected to in the wilderness.
+I conscientiously believed that a diet on potted ham, crackers, and
+jellies would make me as invincible as Talus, and that I only required
+a stout flail to be able to drive the mighty Wagogo into the regions of
+annihilation, should they dare even to wink in a manner I disapproved.
+
+The first box opened contained three tins of biscuits, six tins of
+potted hams--tiny things, not much larger than thimbles, which, when
+opened, proved to be nothing more than a table-spoonful of minced meat
+plentifully seasoned with pepper: the Doctor's stores fell five hundred
+degrees below zero in my estimation. Next were brought out five pots of
+jam, one of which was opened--this was also a delusion. The stone jars
+weighed a pound, and in each was found a little over a tea-spoonful
+of jam. Verily, we began to think our hopes and expectations had
+been raised to too high a pitch. Three bottles of curry were next
+produced--but who cares for curry? Another box was opened, and out
+tumbled a fat dumpy Dutch cheese, hard as a brick, but sound and good;
+though it is bad for the liver in Unyamwezi. Then another cheese was
+seen, but this was all eaten up--it was hollow and a fraud. The third
+box contained nothing but two sugar loaves; the fourth, candles; the
+fifth, bottles of salt, Harvey, Worcester, and Reading sauces, essence
+of anchovies, pepper, and mustard. Bless me! what food were these for
+the revivifying of a moribund such as I was! The sixth box contained
+four shirts, two pairs of stout shoes, some stockings and shoe-strings,
+which delighted the Doctor so much when he tried them on that he
+exclaimed, "Richard is himself again!" "That man," said I, "whoever he
+is, is a friend, indeed." "Yes, that is my friend Waller."
+
+The five other boxes contained potted meat and soups; but the twelfth,
+containing one dozen bottles of medicinal brandy, was gone; and a strict
+cross-examination of Asmani, the head man of Livingstone's caravan,
+elicited the fact, that not only was one case of brandy missing, but
+also two bales of cloth and four bags of the most valuable beads in
+Africa--sami-sami--which are as gold with the natives.
+
+I was grievously disappointed after the stores had been examined;
+everything proved to be deceptions in my jaundiced eyes. Out of the
+tins of biscuits when opened, there was only one sound box; the whole of
+which would not make one full meal. The soups--who cared for meat soups
+in Africa? Are there no bullocks, and sheep, and goats in the land, from
+which far better soup can be made than any that was ever potted? Peas,
+or any other kind of vegetable soup, would have been a luxury; but
+chicken and game soups!--what nonsense!
+
+I then overhauled my own stores. I found some fine old brandy and one
+bottle of champagne still left; though it was evident, in looking at the
+cloth bales, that dishonesty had been at work; and some person
+happened to suggest Asmani--the head man sent by Dr. Kirk in charge
+of Livingstone's goods--as the guilty party. Upon his treasures being
+examined, I found eight or ten coloured cloths, with the mark of my own
+agent at Zanzibar on them. As he was unable to give a clear account of
+how they came in his box, they were at once confiscated, and distributed
+among the most deserving of the Doctor's people. Some of the watchmen
+also accused him of having entered into my store-room, and of having
+abstracted two or three gorah of domestics from my bales, and of having,
+some days afterwards, snatched the keys from the hands of one of my men,
+and broken them, lest other people might enter, and find evidences of
+his guilt. As Asmani was proved to be another of the "moral idiots,"
+Livingstone discharged him on the spot. Had we not arrived so soon at
+Unyanyembe, it is probable that the entire stock sent from Zanzibar had
+in time disappeared.
+
+Unyanyembe being rich in fruits, grain, and cattle, we determined to
+have our Christmas dinner over again in style, and, being fortunately in
+pretty good health, I was enabled to superintend its preparation. Never
+was such prodigality seen in a tembe of Unyamwezi as was seen in ours,
+nor were ever such delicacies provided.
+
+There were but few Arabs in Unyanyembe when we arrived, as they were
+investing the stronghold of Mirambo. About a week after our return,
+"the little mannikin," Sheikh Sayd bin Salim--El Wali--who was the
+commander-in-chief of their forces, came to Kwihara from the front. But
+the little Sheikh was in no great hurry to greet the man he had wronged
+so much. As soon as we heard of his arrival we took the opportunity to
+send men immediately after the goods which were forwarded to the Wali's
+care soon after Livingstone's departure for Mikindany Bay. The first
+time we sent men for them the governor declared himself too sick to
+attend to such matters, but the second day they were surrendered, with
+a request that the Doctor would not be very angry at their condition, as
+the white ants had destroyed everything.
+
+The stores this man had detained at Unyanyembe were in a most sorry
+state. The expenses were prepaid for their carriage to Ujiji, but the
+goods had been purposely detained at this place by Sayd bin Salim since
+1867 that he might satisfy his appetite for liquor, and probably fall
+heir to two valuable guns that were known to be with them. The white
+ants had not only eaten up bodily the box in which the guns were packed,
+but they had also eaten the gunstocks. The barrels were corroded, and
+the locks were quite destroyed. The brandy bottles, most singular
+to relate, had also fallen a prey to the voracious and irresistible
+destroyers the white ants--and, by some unaccountable means, they had
+imbibed the potent Hennessy, and replaced the corks with corn-cobs. The
+medicines had also vanished, and the zinc pots in which they had been
+snugly packed up were destroyed by corrosion. Two bottles of brandy and
+one small zinc case of medicines only were saved out of the otherwise
+utter wreck.
+
+I also begged the Doctor to send to Sheikh Sayd, and ask him if he had
+received the two letters despatched by him upon his first arrival at
+Ujiji for Dr. Kirk and Lord Clarendon; and if he had forwarded them to
+the coast, as he was desired to do. The reply to the messengers was in
+the affirmative; and, subsequently, I obtained the same answer in the
+presence of the Doctor,
+
+On the 222nd of February, the pouring rain, which had dogged us the
+entire distance from Ujiji, ceased, and we had now beautiful weather;
+and while I prepared for the homeward march, the Doctor was busy writing
+his letters, and entering his notes into his journal, which I was to
+take to his family. When not thus employed, we paid visits to the Arabs
+at Tabora, by whom we were both received with that bounteous hospitality
+for which they are celebrated.
+
+Among the goods turned over by me to Dr. Livingstone, while assorting
+such cloths as I wished to retain for my homeward trip, were--
+
+                                      Doti.   Yards.
+
+First-class American sheeting... 285 = 1140
+
+  "         Kaniki (blue stuff)...  16  =   64
+
+Medium " (blue stuff)... 60 = 240
+
+  "          Dabwani cloth....  41  =   64
+
+             Barsati cloths....   28  =  112
+
+             Printed handkerchiefs..  70  =  280
+
+Medium Rehani cloth..... 127 = 508
+
+  "    Ismahili  "       ....  20  =   80
+
+  "    Sohari    ".....        20  =   80
+
+4 pieces fine Kungura (red check) 22 = 88
+
+4 gorah Rehani....... 8 = 32
+
+Total number of cloths. 697 = 2788
+
+Besides:
+
+Cloth, 2788 yards.
+
+Assorted beads, 16 sacks, weight = 992 lbs.
+
+Brass wire, Nos. 5 and 6; 10 fraslilah = 350 lbs.
+
+1 canvas tent, waterproof.
+
+1 air-bed.
+
+1 boat (canvas}
+
+1 bag of tools, carpenter's.
+
+1 rip saw.
+
+2 barrels of tar.
+
+12 sheets of ship's copper = 60 lbs.
+
+Clothes.
+
+1 Jocelyn breech-loader (metallic cartridge).
+
+1 Starr's " " "
+
+1 Henry (16-shooter) " "
+
+1 revolver.
+
+200 rounds revolver ammunition.
+
+2000 " Jocelyn and Starrs ammunition.
+
+1500 " Henry rifle ammunition.
+
+Cooking utensils, medicine chest, books, sextant, canvas bags, &c., &c.,
+&c.
+
+The above made a total of about forty loads. Many things in the list
+would have brought fancy prices in Unyanyembe, especially the carbines
+and ammunition, the saw, carpenter's tools the beads, and wire. Out of
+the thirty-three loads which were stored for him in my tembe--the stock
+sent to Livingstone, Nov. 1,1870--but few of them would be available for
+his return trip to Rua and Manyuema. The 696 doti of cloth which were
+left to him formed the only marketable articles of value he possessed;
+and in Manyuema, where the natives manufactured their own cloth, such
+an article would be considered a drug; while my beads and wire, with
+economy, would suffice to keep him and his men over two years in those
+regions. His own cloth, and what I gave him, made in the aggregate 1,393
+doti, which, at 2 doti per day for food, were sufficient to keep him and
+sixty men 696 days. He had thus four years' supplies. The only articles
+he lacked to make a new and completely fitted-up expedition were the
+following, a list of which he and I drew up;--
+
+A few tins of American wheat-flour.    "   "     soda crackers.
+    "   "     preserved fruits
+A few tins of salmon, 10 lbs. Hyson tea. Some sewing thread and needles.
+1 dozen official envelopes. 'Nautical Almanac' for 1872 and 1873. 1
+blank journal. 1 chronometer, stopped. 1 chain for refractory people.
+
+With the articles just named he would have a total of seventy loads,
+but without carriers they were an incumbrance to him; for, with only
+the nine men which he now had, he could go nowhere with such a splendid
+assortment of goods. I was therefore commissioned to enlist,--as soon as
+I reached Zanzibar,--fifty freemen, arm them with a gun and hatchet each
+man, besides accoutrements, and to purchase two thousand bullets, one
+thousand flints, and ten kegs of gunpowder. The men were to act as
+carriers, to follow wherever Livingstone might desire to go. For,
+without men, he was simply tantalized with the aspirations roused in him
+by the knowledge that he had abundance of means, which were irrealizable
+without carriers. All the wealth of London and New York piled before
+him were totally unavailable to him without the means of locomotion. No
+Mnyamwezi engages himself as carrier during war-time. You who have read
+the diary of my 'Life in Unyanyembe' know what stubborn Conservatives
+the Wanyamwezi are. A duty lay yet before me which I owed to my
+illustrious companion, and that was to hurry to the coast as if on a
+matter of life and death--act for him in the matter of enlisting men as
+if he were there himself--to work for him with the same zeal as I would
+for myself--not to halt or rest until his desires should be gratified,
+And this I vowed to do; but it was a death-blow to my project of going
+down the Nile, and getting news of Sir S. Baker.
+
+The Doctor's task of writing his letters was ended. He delivered into my
+hand twenty letters for Great Britain, six for Bombay, two for New York,
+and one for Zanzibar. The two letters for New York were for James Gordon
+Bennett, junior, as he alone, not his father, was responsible for
+the Expedition sent under my command. I beg the reader's pardon for
+republishing one of these letters here, as its spirit and style indicate
+the man, the mere knowledge of whose life or death was worth a costly
+Expedition.
+
+Ujiji, on Tanganika, East Africa, November, 1871.
+
+James Gordon Bennett, Jr., Esq.
+
+My Dear Sir,--It is in general somewhat difficult to write to one we
+have never seen--it feels so much like addressing an abstract idea--but
+the presence of your representative, Mr. H. M. Stanley, in this distant
+region takes away the strangeness I should otherwise have felt, and in
+writing to thank you for the extreme kindness that prompted you to send
+him, I feel quite at home.
+
+If I explain the forlorn condition in which he found me you will easily
+perceive that I have good reason to use very strong expressions of
+gratitude. I came to Ujiji off a tramp of between four hundred and five
+hundred miles, beneath a blazing vertical sun, having been baffled,
+worried, defeated and forced to return, when almost in sight of the end
+of the geographical part of my mission, by a number of half-caste Moslem
+slaves sent to me from Zanzibar, instead of men. The sore heart made
+still sorer by the woeful sights I had seen of man's inhumanity to man
+racked and told on the bodily frame, and depressed it beyond measure.
+I thought that I was dying on my feet. It is not too much to say that
+almost every step of the weary sultry way was in pain, and I reached
+Ujiji a mere ruckle of bones.
+
+There I found that some five hundred pounds' sterling worth of goods
+which I had ordered from Zanzibar had unaccountably been entrusted to
+a drunken half-caste Moslem tailor, who, after squandering them for
+sixteen months on the way to Ujiji; finished up by selling off all that
+remained for slaves and ivory for himself. He had "divined" on the
+Koran and found that I was dead. He had also written to the Governor of
+Unyanyembe that he had sent slaves after me to Manyuema, who returned
+and reported my decease, and begged permission to sell off the few goods
+that his drunken appetite had spared.
+
+He, however, knew perfectly well, from men who had seen me, that I was
+alive, and waiting for the goods and men; but as for morality, he is
+evidently an idiot, and there being no law here except that of the
+dagger or musket, I had to sit down in great weakness, destitute of
+everything save a few barter cloths and beads, which I had taken the
+precaution to leave here in case of extreme need.
+
+The near prospect of beggary among Ujijians made me miserable.
+
+I could not despair, because I laughed so much at a friend who, on
+reaching the mouth of the Zambezi, said that he was tempted to despair
+on breaking the photograph of his wife. We could have no success after
+that. Afterward the idea of despair had to me such a strong smack of the
+ludicrous that it was out of the question.
+
+Well, when I had got to about the lowest verge, vague rumors of an
+English visitor reached me. I thought of myself as the man who went down
+from Jerusalem to Jericho; but neither priest, Levite, nor Samaritan
+could possibly pass my way. Yet the good Samaritan was close at hand,
+and one of my people rushed up at the top of his speed, and, in great
+excitement, gasped out, "An Englishman coming! I see him!" and off he
+darted to meet him.
+
+An American flag, the first ever seen in these parts, at the head of a
+caravan, told me the nationality of the stranger.
+
+I am as cold and non-demonstrative as we islanders are usually
+reputed to be; but your kindness made my frame thrill. It was, indeed,
+overwhelming, and I said in my soul, "Let the richest blessings descend
+from the Highest on you and yours!"
+
+The news Mr. Stanley had to tell was thrilling. The mighty political
+changes on the Continent; the success of the Atlantic cables; the
+election of General Grant, and many other topics' riveted my attention
+for days together, and had an immediate and beneficial effect on my
+health. I had been without news from home for years save what I could
+glean from a few 'Saturday Reviews' and 'Punch' of 1868. The appetite
+revived, and in a week I began to feel strong again.
+
+Mr. Stanley brought a most kind and encouraging despatch from Lord
+Clarendon (whose loss I sincerely deplore), the first I have received
+from the Foreign Office since 1866, and information that the British
+Government had kindly sent a thousand pounds sterling to my aid. Up to
+his arrival I was not aware of any pecuniary aid. I came unsalaried, but
+this want is now happily repaired, and I am anxious that you and all my
+friends should know that, though uncheered by letter, I have stuck
+to the task which my friend Sir Roderick Murchison set me with "John
+Bullish" tenacity, believing that all would come right at last.
+
+The watershed of South Central Africa is over seven hundred wiles in
+length. The fountains thereon are almost innumerable--that is, it would
+take a man's lifetime to count them. From the watershed they converge
+into four large rivers, and these again into two mighty streams in the
+great Nile valley, which begins in ten degrees to twelve degrees south
+latitude. It was long ere light dawned on the ancient problem and gave
+me a clear idea of the drainage. I had to feel my way, and every step
+of the way, and was, generally, groping in the dark--for who cared where
+the rivers ran? "We drank our fill and let the rest run by."
+
+The Portuguese who visited Cazembe asked for slaves and ivory, and
+heard of nothing else. I asked about the waters, questioned and
+cross-questioned, until I was almost afraid of being set down as
+afflicted with hydrocephalus.
+
+My last work, in which I have been greatly hindered from want of
+suitable attendants, was following the central line of drainage down
+through the country of the cannibals, called Manyuema, or, shortly
+Manyema. This line of drainage has four large lakes in it. The fourth I
+was near when obliged to turn. It is from one to three miles broad,
+and never can be reached at any point, or at any time of the year. Two
+western drains, the Lufira, or Bartle Frere's River, flow into it at
+Lake Kamolondo. Then the great River Lomame flows through Lake Lincoln
+into it too, and seems to form the western arm of the Nile, on which
+Petherick traded.
+
+Now, I knew about six hundred miles of the watershed, and unfortunately
+the seventh hundred is the most interesting of the whole; for in it, if
+I am not mistaken, four fountains arise from an earthen mound, and the
+last of the four becomes, at no great distance off, a large river.
+
+Two of these run north to Egypt, Lufira and Lomame, and two run south
+into inner Ethiopia, as the Leambaye, or Upper Zambezi, and the Kaful.
+
+Are not these the sources of the Nile mentioned by the Secretary of
+Minerva, in the city of Sais, to Herodotus?
+
+I have heard of them so often, and at great distances off, that I cannot
+doubt their existence, and in spite of the sore longing for home that
+seizes me every time I think of my family, I wish to finish up by their
+rediscovery.
+
+Five hundred pounds sterling worth of goods have again unaccountably
+been entrusted to slaves, and have been over a year on the way, instead
+of four months. I must go where they lie at your expense, ere I can put
+the natural completion to my work.
+
+And if my disclosures regarding the terrible Ujijian slavery should lead
+to the suppression of the East Coast slave trade, I shall regard that
+as a greater matter by far than the discovery of all the Nile sources
+together. Now that you have done with domestic slavery for ever, lend
+us your powerful aid toward this great object. This fine country
+is blighted, as with a curse from above, in order that the slavery
+privileges of the petty Sultan of Zanzibar may not be infringed, and the
+rights of the Crown of Portugal, which are mythical, should be kept in
+abeyance till some future time when Africa will become another India to
+Portuguese slave-traders.
+
+I conclude by again thanking you most cordially for your great
+generosity, and am,
+
+Gratefully yours,
+
+David Livingstone.
+
+
+To the above letter I have nothing to add--it speaks for itself; but I
+then thought it was the best evidence of my success. For my own part, I
+cared not one jot or tittle about his discoveries, except so far as it
+concerned the newspaper which commissioned me for the "search." It
+is true I felt curious as to the result of his travels; but, since
+he confessed that he had not completed what he had begun, I felt
+considerable delicacy to ask for more than he could afford to give.
+His discoveries were the fruits of of his own labours--to him they
+belonged--by their publication he hoped to obtain his reward, which
+he desired to settle on his children. Yet Livingstone had a higher
+and nobler ambition than the mere pecuniary sum he would receive: he
+followed the dictates of duty. Never was such a willing slave to that
+abstract virtue. His inclinations impelled him home, the fascinations
+of which it required the sternest resolves to resist. With every foot of
+new ground he travelled over he forged a chain of sympathy which should
+hereafter bind the Christian nations in bonds of love and charity to the
+Heathen of the African tropics. If he were able to complete this chain
+of love--by actual discovery and description of them to embody such
+peoples and nations as still live in darkness, so as to attract the good
+and charitable of his own land to bestir themselves for their redemption
+and salvation--this, Livingstone would consider an ample reward.
+
+"A delirious and fatuous enterprise, a Quixotic scheme!" some will say.
+Not it, my friends; for as sure as the sun shines on both Christian and
+Infidel, civilised and Pagan, the day of enlightenment will come; and,
+though Livingstone, the Apostle of Africa, may not behold it himself,
+nor we younger men, not yet our children, the Hereafter will see it, and
+posterity will recognise the daring pioneer of its civilization.
+
+The following items are extracted in their entirety from my Diary:
+
+March 12th.--The Arabs have sent me as many as forty-five letters to
+carry to the coast. I am turned courier in my latter days; but the
+reason is that no regularly organized caravans are permitted to leave
+Unyanyembe now, because of the war with Mirambo. What if I had stayed
+all this time at Unyanyembe waiting for the war to end! It is my opinion
+that, the Arabs will not be able to conquer Mirambo under nine months
+yet.
+
+To-night the natives have gathered themselves together to give me a
+farewell dance in front of my house. I find them to be the pagazis of
+Singiri, chief of Mtesa's caravan. My men joined in, and, captivated
+by the music despite myself, I also struck in, and performed the "light
+fantastic," to the intense admiration of my braves, who were delighted
+to see their master unbend a little from his usual stiffness.
+
+It is a wild dance altogether. The music is lively, and evoked from the
+sonorous sound of four drums, which are arranged before the bodies of
+four men, who stand in the centre of the weird circle. Bombay, as ever
+comical, never so much at home as when in the dance of the Mrima, has my
+water-bucket on his head; Chowpereh--the sturdy, the nimble, sure-footed
+Chowpereh--has an axe in his hand, and wears a goatskin on his head;
+Baraka has my bearskin, and handles a spear; Mabruki, the "Bull-headed,"
+has entered into the spirit of the thing, and steps up and down like a
+solemn elephant; Ulimengo has a gun, and is a fierce Drawcansir, and
+you would imagine he was about to do battle to a hundred thousand,
+so ferocious is he in appearance; Khamisi and Kamna are before
+the drummers, back to back, kicking up ambitiously at the stars;
+Asmani,--the embodiment of giant strength,--a towering Titan,--has also
+a gun, with which he is dealing blows in the air, as if he were Thor,
+slaying myriads with his hammer. The scruples and passions of us all are
+in abeyance; we are contending demons under the heavenly light of the
+stars, enacting only the part of a weird drama, quickened into action
+and movement by the appalling energy and thunder of the drums.
+
+The warlike music is ended, and another is started. The choragus
+has fallen on his knees, and dips his head two or three times in an
+excavation in the ground, and a choir, also on their knees, repeat in
+dolorous tones the last words of a slow and solemn refrain. The words
+are literally translated:--
+
+  Choragus. Oh-oh-oh! the white man is going home!
+
+  Choir. Oh-oh-oh! going home!
+                       Going home, oh-oh-oh!
+
+  Choragus. To the happy island on the sea,
+             Where the beads are plenty, oh-oh-oh!
+
+  Choir. Oh-oh-oh! where the beads are plenty,
+                       Oh-oh-oh!
+
+  Choragus. While Singiri has kept us, oh, very long
+             From our homes very long, oh-oh-oh.!
+
+  Choir From our homes, oh-oh-oh!
+                        Oh-oh-oh!
+
+  Choragus. And we have had no food for very long--
+             We are half-starved, oh, for so long!
+                        Bana Singiri!
+
+  Choir. For so very long, oh-oh-oh!
+                         Bana Singiri-Singiri!
+                              Singiri! oh, Singiri
+
+  Choragus. Mirambo has gone to war
+             To fight against the Arabs;
+             The Arabs and Wangwana
+             Have gone to fight Mirambo!
+
+  Choir Oh-oh-oh! to fight Mirambo!
+
+                          Oh, Mirambo! Mirambo
+                          Oh, to fight Mirambo!
+
+  Choragus. But the white man will make us glad,
+             He is going home!  For he is going home,
+             And he will make us glad!  Sh-sh-sh!
+
+  Choir. The white man will make us glad! Sh-sh-sh
+                          Sh-----sh-h-h-----sh-h-h-h-h-h!
+                          Um-m--mu---um-m-m----sh!
+
+This is the singular farewell which I received from the Wanyamwezi of
+Singiri, and for its remarkable epic beauty(?), rhythmic excellence(?),
+and impassioned force(?), I have immortalised it in the pages of this
+book, as one of the most wonderful productions of the chorus-loving
+children of Unyamwezi.
+
+March 13th.--The last day of my stay with Livingstone has come and gone,
+and the last night we shall be together is present, and I cannot evade
+the morrow! I feel as though I would rebel against the fate which drives
+me away from him. The minutes beat fast, and grow into hours.
+
+Our door is closed, and we are both of us busy with our own thoughts.
+What his thoughts are I know not. Mine are sad. My days seem to have
+been spent in an Elysian field; otherwise, why should I so keenly regret
+the near approach of the parting hour? Have I not been battered by
+successive fevers, prostrate with agony day after day lately? Have I not
+raved and stormed in madness? Have I not clenched my fists in fury, and
+fought with the wild strength of despair when in delirium? Yet, I regret
+to surrender the pleasure I have felt in this man's society, though so
+dearly purchased.
+
+I cannot resist the sure advance of time, which flies this night as if
+it mocked me, and gloated on the misery it created! Be it so!
+
+How many times have I not suffered the pang of parting with friends! I
+wished to linger longer, but the inevitable would come--Fate sundered
+us. This is the same regretful feeling, only it is more poignant,
+and the farewell may be forever! FOREVER? And "FOR EVER," echo the
+reverberations of a woful whisper.
+
+I have noted down all he has said to-night; but the reader shall not
+share it with me. It is mine!
+
+I am as jealous as he is himself of his Journal; and I have written in
+German text, and in round hand, on either side of it, on the waterproof
+canvas cover, "POSITTVELY NOT TO BE OPENED;" to which he has affixed his
+signature. I have stenographed every word he has said to me respecting
+the equable distribution of certain curiosities among his friends and
+children, and his last wish about "his" dear old friend, Sir Roderick
+Murchison, because he has been getting anxious about him ever since we
+received the newspapers at Ugunda, when we read that the old man was
+suffering from a paralytic stroke. I must be sure to send him the news,
+as soon as I get to Aden; and I have promised that he will receive
+the message from me quicker than anything was ever received in Central
+Africa.
+
+"To-morrow night, Doctor, you will be alone!"
+
+"Yes; the house will look as though a death had taken place. You had
+better stop until the rains, which are now near, are over."
+
+"I would to God I could, my dear Doctor; but every day I stop here, now
+that there is no necessity for me to stay longer, keeps you from your
+work and home."
+
+"I know; but consider your health--you are not fit to travel. What
+is it? Only a few weeks longer. You will travel to the coast just as
+quickly when the rains are over as you will by going now. The plains
+will be inundated between here and the coast."
+
+"You think so; but I will reach the coast in forty days; if not in
+forty, I will in fifty--certain. The thought that I am doing you an
+important service will spur me on."
+
+March 14th.--At dawn we were up, the bales and baggage were taken
+outside of the building, and the men prepared themselves for the first
+march towards home.
+
+We had a sad breakfast together. I could not eat, my heart was too full;
+neither did my companion seem to have an appetite. We found something to
+do which kept us longer together. At 8 o'clock I was not gone, and I had
+thought to have been off at 5 A.M.
+
+"Doctor," said I, "I will leave two men with you, who will stop to-day
+and to-morrow with you, for it may be that you have forgotten something
+in the hurry of my departure. I will halt a day at Tura, on the frontier
+of Unyamwezi, for your last word, and your last wish; and now we must
+part--there is no help for it. Good-bye."
+
+"Oh, I am coming with you a little way. I must see you off on the road."
+
+"Thank you. Now, my men, Home! Kirangozi, lift the flag, and MARCH!"
+
+The house looked desolate--it faded from our view. Old times, and the
+memories of my aspirations and kindling hopes, came strong on me. The
+old hills round about, that I once thought tame and uninteresting, had
+become invested with histories and reminiscences for me. On that burzani
+I have sat hour after hour, dreaming, and hoping, and sighing. On that
+col I stood, watching the battle and the destruction of Tabora. Under
+that roof I have sickened and been delirious, and cried out like a child
+at the fate that threatened my mission. Under that banian tree lay my
+dead comrade--poor Shaw; I would have given a fortune to have had him by
+my side at this time. From that house I started on my journey to Ujiji;
+to it I returned as to a friend, with a newer and dearer companion; and
+now I leave all. Already it all appears like a strange dream.
+
+We walked side by side; the men lifted their voices into a song. I took
+long looks at Livingstone, to impress his features thoroughly on my
+memory.
+
+"The thing is, Doctor, so far as I can understand it, you do not intend
+to return home until you have satisfied yourself about the 'Sources
+of the Nile.' When you have satisfied yourself, you will come home and
+satisfy others. Is it not so?"
+
+"That is it, exactly. When your men come back, I shall immediately start
+for Ufipa; then, crossing the Rungwa River, I shall strike south, and
+round the extremity of the Tanganika. Then, a south-east course will
+take me to Chicumbi's, on the Luapula. On crossing the Luapula, I shall
+go direct west to the copper-mines of Katanga. Eight days south of
+Katanga, the natives declare the fountains to be. When I have found
+them, I shall return by Katanga to the underground houses of Rua. From
+the caverns, ten days north-east will take me to Lake Kamolondo. I shall
+be able to travel from the lake, in your boat, up the River Lufira,
+to Lake Lincoln. Then, coming down again, I can proceed north, by the
+Lualaba, to the fourth lake--which, I think, will explain the whole
+problem; and I will probably find that it is either Chowambe (Baker's
+lake), or Piaggia's lake.
+
+"And how long do you think this little journey will take you?"
+
+"A year and a half, at the furthest, from the day I leave Unyanyembe."
+
+"Suppose you say two years; contingencies might arise, you know. It will
+be well for me to hire these new men for two years; the day of their
+engagement to begin from their arrival at Unyanyembe."
+
+"Yes, that will do excellently well."
+
+"Now, my dear Doctor, the best friends must part. You have come far
+enough; let me beg of you to turn back."
+
+"Well, I will say this to you: you have done what few men could do--far
+better than some great travellers I know. And I am grateful to you for
+what you have done for me. God guide you safe home, and bless you, my
+friend."
+
+"And may God bring you safe back to us all, my dear friend. Farewell!"
+
+"Farewell!"
+
+We wrung each other's hands, and I had to tear myself away before
+I unmanned myself; but Susi, and Chumah, and Hamoydah--the Doctor's
+faithful fellows--they must all shake and kiss my hands before I could
+quite turn away. I betrayed myself!
+
+"Good-bye, Doctor--dear friend!"
+
+"Good-bye!"
+
+The FAREWELL between Livingstone and myself had been spoken. We were
+parted, he to whatever fate Destiny had yet in store for him, to
+battling against difficulties, to many, many days of marching through
+wildernesses, with little or nothing much to sustain him save his own
+high spirit, and enduring faith in God--"who would bring all things
+right at last;" and I to that which Destiny may have in store for me.
+
+But though I may live half a century longer, I shall never forget that
+parting scene in Central Africa. I shall never cease to think of the sad
+tones of that sorrowful word Farewell, how they permeated through every
+core of my heart, how they clouded my eyes, and made me wish unutterable
+things which could never be.
+
+An audacious desire to steal one embrace from the dear old man came over
+me, and almost unmanned me. I felt tempted to stop with him and assist
+him, on his long return march to the fountain region, but these things
+were not to be, any more than many other impulsive wishes, and despite
+the intensified emotions which filled both of us, save by silent tears,
+and a tremulous parting word, we did not betray our stoicism of manhood
+and race.
+
+I assumed a gruff voice, and ordered the Expedition to march, and I
+resolutely turned my face toward the eastern sky. But ever and anon my
+eyes would seek that deserted figure of an old man in grey clothes, who
+with bended head and slow steps was returning to his solitude, the very
+picture of melancholy, and each time I saw him--as the plain was wide
+and clear of obstructions--I felt my eyes stream, and my heart swell
+with a vague, indefinable feeling of foreboding and sorrow.
+
+I thought of his lonely figure sitting day after day on the burzani of
+his house, by which all caravans from the coast would have to pass, and
+of the many, many times he would ask the new-comers whether they had
+passed any men coming along the road for him, and I thought as each day
+passed, and his stores and letters had not arrived how he would grieve
+at the lengthening delay. I then felt strong again, as I felt that
+so long as I should be doing service for Livingstone, I was not quite
+parted from him, and by doing the work effectively and speedily the bond
+of friendship between us would be strengthened. Such thoughts spurred me
+to the resolution to march so quickly for the coast, that Arabs in
+after time should marvel at the speed with which the white man's caravan
+travelled from Unyanyembe to Zanzibar.
+
+I took one more look at him; he was standing near the gate of Kwikuru
+with his servants near him. I waved a handkerchief to him, as a final
+token of farewell, and he responded to it by lifting his cap. It was the
+last opportunity, for we soon surmounted the crest of a land-wave, and
+began the descent into the depression on the other side, and I NEVER saw
+him more.
+
+God grant, dear reader, that if ever you take to travelling in Central
+Africa, you find as good and true a man, for your companion, as I found
+in noble David Livingstone. For four months and four days he and I
+occupied the same house, or, the same tent, and I never had one feeling
+of resentment against him, nor did he show any against me, and the
+longer I lived with him the more did my admiration and reverence for him
+increase.
+
+What were Livingstone's thoughts during the time which elapsed between
+my departure for the coast, and the arrival of his supplies, may be
+gathered from a letter which he wrote on the 2nd of July to Mr. John F.
+Webb, American Consul at Zanzibar.
+
+  I have been waiting up here like Simeon Stylites on his pillar,
+  and counting every day, and conjecturing each step taken by our
+  friend towards the coast, wishing and praying that no sickness
+  might lay him up, no accident befall him, and no unlooked-for
+  combinations of circumstances render his kind intentions vain
+  or fruitless.  Mr. Stanley had got over the tendency to the
+  continued form of fever which is the most dangerous, and was
+  troubled only with the intermittent form, which is comparatively
+  safe, or I would not have allowed him, but would have accompanied
+  him to Zanzibar.  I did not tell himself so; nor did I say what I
+  thought, that he really did a very plucky thing in going through
+  the Mirambo war in spite of the remonstrances of all the Arabs,
+  and from Ujiji guiding me back to Unyanyembe.  The war, as it
+  is called, is still going on.  The danger lay not so much in
+  the actual fighting as in the universal lawlessness the war
+  engendered.
+
+I am not going to inflict on the reader a repetition of our march back,
+except to record certain incidents which occurred to us as we journeyed
+to the coast.
+
+March 17th.--We came to the Kwalah River. The first rain of the Masika
+season fell on this day; I shall be mildewed before I reach the coast.
+Last year's Masika began at Bagamoyo, March 23rd, and ended 30th April.
+
+The next day I halted the Expedition at Western Tura, on the Unyamwezi
+frontier, and on the 20th arrived at Eastern Tura; when, soon after,
+we heard a loud report of a gun, and Susi and Hamoydah, the Doctor's
+servants, with Uredi, and another of my men, appeared with a letter
+for "Sir Thomas MacLear, Observatory, Cape of Good Hope," and one for
+myself, which read as follows:
+
+Kwihara, March 15, 1872.
+
+Dear Stanley,
+
+If you can telegraph on your arrival in London, be particular, please,
+to say how Sir Roderick is. You put the matter exactly yesterday, when
+you said that I was "not yet satisfied about the Sources; but as soon as
+I shall be satisfied, I shall return and give satisfactory reasons fit
+for other people." This is just as it stands.
+
+I wish I could give you a better word than the Scotch one to "put a
+stout heart to a stey brae"--(a steep ascent)--for you will do that; and
+I am thankful that, before going away, the fever had changed into the
+intermittent, or safe form. I would not have let you go, but with great
+concern, had you still been troubled with the continued type. I feel
+comfortable in commending you to the guardianship of the good Lord and
+Father of all.
+
+I am gratefully yours,
+
+David Livingstone.
+
+I have worked as hard as I could copying observations made in one line
+of march from Kabuire, back again to Cazembe, and on to Lake Baugweolo,
+and am quite tired out. My large figures fill six sheets of foolscap,
+and many a day will elapse ere I take to copying again. I did my duty
+when ill at Ujiji in 1869, and am not to blame, though they grope a
+little in the dark at home. Some Arab letters have come, and I forward
+them to you.
+
+D. L.
+
+March 16, 1872.
+
+P.S.--I have written a note this morning to Mr. Murray, 50, Albemarle
+Street, the publisher, to help you, if necessary, in sending the Journal
+by book post, or otherwise, to Agnes. If you call on him you will find
+him a frank gentleman. A pleasant journey to you.
+
+
+David Livingstone.
+
+To Henry M. Stanley, Esq., Wherever he may be found.
+
+
+Several Wangwana arrived at Tura to join our returning Expedition,
+as they were afraid to pass through Ugogo by themselves; others were
+reported coming; but as all were sufficiently warned at Unyanyembe that
+the departure of the caravan would take place positively on the 14th, I
+was not disposed to wait longer.
+
+As we were leaving Tura, on the 21st, Susi and Hamoydah were sent back
+to the Doctor, with last words from me, while we continued our march to
+Nghwhalah River.
+
+Two days afterwards we arrived before the village of Ngaraisa, into
+which the head of the caravan attempted to enter but the angry Wakimbu
+forcibly ejected them.
+
+On the 24th, we encamped in the jungle, in what is called the "tongoni,"
+or clearing.
+
+This region was at one period in a most flourishing state; the soil is
+exceedingly fertile; the timber is large, and would be valuable near the
+coast; and, what is highly appreciated in Africa, there is an abundance
+of water. We camped near a smooth, broad hump of syenite, at one end
+of which rose, upright and grand, a massive square rock, which towered
+above several small trees in the vicinity; at the other end stood up
+another singular rock, which was loosened at the base.
+
+The members of the Expedition made use of the great sheet of rock to
+grind their grain; a common proceeding in these lands where villages are
+not near, or when the people are hostile.
+
+On the 27th of March we entered Kiwyeh. At dawn, when leaving Mdaburu
+River, the solemn warning had been given that we were about entering
+Ugogo; and as we left Kaniyaga village, with trumpet-like blasts of the
+guide's horn, we filed into the depths of an expanse of rustling Indian
+corn. The ears were ripe enough for parching and roasting, and thus was
+one anxiety dispelled by its appearance; for generally, in early March,
+caravans suffer from famine, which overtakes both natives and strangers.
+
+We soon entered the gum-tree districts, and we knew we were in Ugogo.
+The forests of this country are chiefly composed of the gum and thorn
+species--mimosa and tamarisk, with often a variety of wild fruit trees.
+The grapes were plentiful, though they were not quite ripe; and there
+was also a round, reddish fruit with the sweetness of the Sultana grape,
+with leaves like a gooseberry-bush. There was another about the size of
+an apricot, which was excessively bitter.
+
+Emerging from the entangled thorn jungle, the extensive settlements of
+Kiwyeh came into view; and to the east of the chief's village we found a
+camping place under the shade of a group of colossal baobab.
+
+We had barely encamped when we heard the booming, bellowing war horns
+sounding everywhere, and we espied messengers darting swiftly in every
+direction giving the alarm of war. When first informed that the horns
+were calling the people to arm themselves, and prepare for war, I half
+suspected that an attack was about to be made on the Expedition; but
+the words "Urugu, warugu" (thief! thieves!)--bandied about, declared
+the cause. Mukondoku, the chief of the populous district two days to the
+north-east, where we experienced some excitement when westward-bound,
+was marching to attack the young Mtemi, Kiwyeh, and Kiwyeh's soldiers
+were called to the fight. The men rushed to their villages, and in a
+short time we saw them arrayed in full fighting costume. Feathers of the
+ostrich and the eagle waved over their fronts, or the mane of the zebra
+surrounded their heads; their knees and ankles were hung with little
+bells; joho robes floated behind, from their necks; spears, assegais,
+knob-sticks, and bows were flourished over their heads, or held in their
+right hands, as if ready for hurling. On each flank of a large body
+which issued from the principal village, and which came at a uniform
+swinging double-quick, the ankle and knee bells all chiming in
+admirable unison, were a cloud of skirmishers, consisting of the most
+enthusiastic, who exercised themselves in mimic war as they sped along.
+Column after column, companies, and groups from every village hurried
+on past our camp until, probably, there were nearly a thousand soldiers
+gone to the war. This scene gave me a better idea than anything else
+of the weakness of even the largest caravans which travelled between
+Zanzibar and Unyanyembe.
+
+At night the warriors returned from the forest; the alarm proved to be
+without foundation. At first it was generally reported that the invaders
+were Wahehe, or the Wadirigo, as that tribe are scornfully called from
+their thieving propensities. The Wahehe frequently make a foray upon
+the fat cattle of Ugogo. They travel from their own country in the
+south-east, and advance through the jungle, and when about to approach
+the herds, stoop down, covering their bodies with their shields of
+bull-hide. Having arrived between the cattle and the herdsmen, they
+suddenly rise up and begin to switch the cattle heartily, and, having
+started them off into the jungle in the care of men already detailed for
+the work, they turn about, and plant their shields before them, to fight
+the aroused shepherds.
+
+On the 30th we arrived at Khonze, which is remarkable for the mighty
+globes of foliage which the giant sycamores and baobabs put forth above
+the plain. The chief of Khonze boasts of four tembes, out of which
+he could muster in the aggregate fifty armed men; yet this fellow,
+instigated by the Wanyamwezi residents, prepared to resist our advance,
+because I only sent him three doti--twelve yards of cloth--as honga.
+
+We were halted, waiting the return of a few friendly Wagogo travellers
+who had joined us, and who were asked to assist Bombay in the
+negotiation of the tribute, when the Wagogo returned to us at breathless
+speed, and shouted out to me, "Why do you halt here? Do you wish to die?
+These pagans will not take the tribute, but they boast that they will
+eat up all your cloth."
+
+The renegade Wanyamwezi who had married into Wagogo families were always
+our bane in this country. As the chief of Khonze came up I ordered
+the men to load their guns, and I loaded my own ostentatiously in his
+presence, and then strode up to him, and asked if he had come to take
+the cloth by force, or if he were going to accept quietly what I would
+give him. As the Mnyamwezi who caused this show of hostilities was
+beginning to speak, I caught him by the throat, and threatened to make
+his nose flatter if he attempted to speak again in my presence, and to
+shoot him first, if we should be forced to fight. The rascal was then
+pushed away into the rear. The chief, who was highly amused with this
+proceeding, laughed loudly at the discomfiture of the parasite, and in a
+short time he and I had settled the tribute to our mutual satisfaction,
+and we parted great friends. The Expedition arrived at Sanza that night.
+
+On the 31st we came to Kanyenyi, to the great Mtemi--Magomba's--whose
+son and heir is Mtundu M'gondeh. As we passed by the tembe of the great
+Sultan, the msagira, or chief counsellor, a pleasant grey-haired man,
+was at work making a thorn fence around a patch of young corn. He
+greeted the caravan with a sonorous "Yambo," and, putting himself at
+its head, he led the way to our camp. When introduced to me he was very
+cordial in his manner. He was offered a kiti-stool and began to talk
+very affably. He remembered my predecessors, Burton, Speke, and Grant,
+very well; declared me to be much younger than any of them; and,
+recollecting that one of the white men used to drink asses' milk
+(Burton?), offered to procure me some. The way I drank it seemed to give
+him very great satisfaction.
+
+His son, Unamapokera, was a tall man of thirty or thereabouts, and
+he conceived a great friendship for me, and promised that the tribute
+should be very light, and that he would send a man to show me the way to
+Myumi, which was a village on the frontier of Kanyenyi, by which I
+would be enabled to avoid the rapacious Kisewah, who was in the habit of
+enforcing large tribute from caravans.
+
+With the aid of Unamapokera and his father, we contrived to be mulcted
+very lightly, for we only paid ten doti, while Burton was compelled to
+pay sixty doti or two hundred and forty yards of cloth.
+
+On the 1st of April, rising early, we reached Myumi after a four hours'
+march; then plunged into the jungle, and, about 2 P.M. arrived at a
+large ziwa, or pond, situate in the middle of a jungle; and on the next
+day, at 10 A.M., reached the fields of Mapanga. We were passing the
+village of Mapanga to a resting-place beyond the village, where we might
+breakfast and settle the honga, when a lad rushed forward to meet us,
+and asked us where we were going. Having received a reply that we were
+going to a camping-place, he hastened on ahead, and presently we heard
+him talking to some men in a field on our right.
+
+In the meantime, we had found a comfortable shady place, and had come to
+a halt; the men were reclining on the ground, or standing up near their
+respective loads; Bombay was about opening a bale, when we heard a great
+rush of men, and loud shouts, and, immediately after, out rushed from
+the jungle near by a body of forty or fifty armed men, who held their
+spears above their heads, or were about to draw their bows, with a chief
+at their head, all uttering such howls of rage as only savages can,
+which sounded like a long-drawn "Hhaat-uh--Hhaat-uhh-uhh," which
+meant, unmistakably, "You will, will you? No, you will not!"--at once
+determined, defiant, and menacing.
+
+I had suspected that the voices I heard boded no good to us, and I had
+accordingly prepared my weapons and cartridges. Verily, what a fine
+chance for adventure this was! One spear flung at us, or one shot fired
+into this minatory mob of savages, and the opposing' bands had been
+plunged into a fatal conflict! There would have been no order of
+battle, no pomp of war, but a murderous strife, a quick firing of
+breech-loaders, and volleys from flint-lock muskets, mixed with the
+flying of spears and twanging of bows, the cowardly running away at
+once, pursued by yelping savages; and who knows how it all would have
+terminated? Forty spears against forty guns--but how many guns would
+not have decamped? Perhaps all, and I should have been left with my
+boy gunbearers to have my jugular deliberately severed, or to be
+decapitated, leaving my head to adorn a tall pole in the centre of
+a Kigogo village, like poor Monsieur Maizan's at Dege la Mhora, in
+Uzaramo. Happy end of an Expedition! And the Doctor's Journal lost for
+ever--the fruits of six years' labor!
+
+But in this land it will not do to fight unless driven to the very last
+extremity. No belligerent Mungo Park can be successful in Ugogo unless
+he has a sufficient force of men with him. With five hundred Europeans
+one could traverse Africa from north to south, by tact, and the moral
+effect that such a force would inspire. Very little fighting would be
+required.
+
+Without rising from the bale on which I was seated, I requested
+the kirangozi to demand an explanation of their furious hubbub and
+threatening aspect; if they were come to rob us.
+
+"No," said the chief; "we do not want to stop the road, or to rob you;
+but we want the tribute."
+
+"But don't you see us halted, and the bale opened to send it to you? We
+have come so far from your village that after the tribute is settled we
+can proceed on our way, as the day is yet young."
+
+The chief burst into a loud laugh, and was joined by ourselves. He
+evidently felt ashamed of his conduct for he voluntarily offered the
+explanation, that as he and his men were cutting wood to make a new
+fence for his village, a lad came up to him, and said that a caravan
+of Wangwana were about passing through the country without stopping to
+explain who they were. We were soon very good friends. He begged of
+me to make rain for him, as his crops were suffering, and no rain had
+fallen for months. I told him that though white people were very great
+and clever people, much superior to the Arabs, yet we could not make
+rain. Though very much disappointed, he did not doubt my statement, and
+after receiving his honga, which was very light, he permitted us to go
+on our way, and even accompanied us some distance to show us the road.
+
+At 3 P.M. we entered a thorny jungle; and by 5 P.M. we had arrived at
+Muhalata, a district lorded over by the chief Nyamzaga. A Mgogo, of whom
+I made a friend, proved very staunch. He belonged to Mulowa, a country
+to the S.S.E., and south of Kulabi; and was active in promoting my
+interests by settling the tribute, with the assistance of Bombay, for
+me. When, on the next day, we passed through Kulabi on our way to Mvumi,
+and the Wagogo were about to stop us for the honga, he took upon himself
+the task of relieving us from further toll, by stating we were from
+Ugogo or Kanyenyi. The chief simply nodded his head, and we passed on.
+It seems that the Wagogo do not exact blackmail of those caravans who
+intend only to trade in their own country, or have no intention of
+passing beyond their own frontier.
+
+Leaving Kulabi, we traversed a naked, red, loamy plain, over which the
+wind from the heights of Usagara, now rising a bluish-black jumble
+of mountains in our front, howled most fearfully. With clear, keen,
+incisive force, the terrible blasts seemed to penetrate through an
+through our bodies, as though we were but filmy gauze. Manfully battling
+against this mighty "peppo"--storm--we passed through Mukamwa's, and
+crossing a broad sandy bed of a stream, we entered the territory of
+Mvumi, the last tribute-levying chief of Ugogo.
+
+The 4th of April, after sending Bombay and my friendly Mgogo with eight
+doti, or thirty-two yards of cloth, as a farewell tribute to the Sultan,
+we struck off through the jungle, and in five hours we were on the
+borders of the wilderness of "Marenga Mkali"--the "hard," bitter or
+brackish, water.
+
+From our camp I despatched three men to Zanzibar with letters to the
+American Consul, and telegraphic despatches for the 'Herald,' with a
+request to the Consul that he would send the men back with a small case
+or two containing such luxuries as hungry, worn-out, and mildewed men
+would appreciate. The three messengers were charged not to halt for
+anything--rain or no rain, river or inundation--as if they did not hurry
+up we should catch them before they reached the coast. With a fervent
+"Inshallah, bana," they departed.
+
+On the 5th, with a loud, vigorous, cheery "Hurrah!" we plunged into the
+depths of the wilderness, which, with its eternal silence and solitude,
+was far preferable to the jarring, inharmonious discord of the villages
+of the Wagogo. For nine hours we held on our way, starting with noisy
+shouts the fierce rhinoceros, the timid quagga, and the herds of
+antelopes which crowd the jungles of this broad salina. On the 7th, amid
+a pelting rain, we entered Mpwapwa, where my Scotch assistant, Farquhar,
+died. We had performed the extraordinary march of 338 English statute
+miles from the 14th of March to the 7th of April, or within twenty-four
+days, inclusive of halts, which was a little over fourteen miles a day.
+
+Leukole, the chief of Mpwapwa, with whom I left Farquhar, gave the
+following account of the death of the latter:--
+
+"The white man seemed to be improving after you left him, until the,
+fifth day, when, while attempting to rise and walk out of his tent, he
+fell back; from that minute he got worse and worse, and in the afternoon
+he died, like one going to sleep. His legs and abdomen had swollen
+considerably, and something, I think, broke within him when he fell, for
+he cried out like a man who was very much hurt, and his servant said,
+'The master says he is dying.'
+
+"We had him carried out under a large tree, and after covering him with
+leaves, there left him. His servant took possession of his things, his
+rifle, clothes, and blanket, and moved off to the tembe of a Mnyamwezi,
+near Kisokweh, where he lived for three months, when he also died.
+Before he died he sold his master's rifle to an Arab going to Unyanyembe
+for ten doti (forty yards of cloth). That is all I know about it."
+
+He subsequently showed me the hollow into which the dead body of
+Farquhar was thrown, but I could not find a vestige of his bones, though
+we looked sharply about that we might make a decent grave for them.
+Before we left Unyanyembe fifty men were employed two days carrying
+rocks, with which I built up a solid enduring pile around Shaw's grave
+eight feet long and five feet broad, which Dr. Livingstone said would
+last hundreds of years, as the grave of the first white man who died
+in Unyamwezi. But though we could not discover any remains of the
+unfortunate Farquhar, we collected a large quantity of stones, and
+managed to raise a mound near the banks of the stream to commemorate the
+spot where his body was laid.
+
+It was not until we had entered the valley of the Mukondokwa River that
+we experienced anything like privation or hardship from the Masika. Here
+the torrents thundered and roared; the river was a mighty brown flood,
+sweeping downward with, an almost resistless flow. The banks were
+brimful, and broad nullahs were full of water, and the fields were
+inundated, and still the rain came surging down in a shower, that warned
+us of what we might expect during our transit of the sea-coast region.
+Still we urged our steps onward like men to whom every moment was
+precious--as if a deluge was overtaking us. Three times we crossed this
+awful flood at the fords by means of ropes tied to trees from bank to
+bank, and arrived at Kadetamare on the 11th, a most miserable, most
+woe-begone set of human beings; and camped on a hill opposite Mount
+Kibwe, which rose on the right of the river--one of the tallest peaks of
+the range.
+
+On the 12th of April, after six hours of the weariest march I had ever
+undergone, we arrived at the mouth of the Mukondokwa Pass, out of which
+the river debouches into the Plain of Makata. We knew that it was an
+unusual season, for the condition of the country, though bad enough the
+year before, was as nothing compared to this year. Close to the edge
+of the foaming, angry flood lay our route, dipping down frequently into
+deep ditches, wherein we found ourselves sometimes up to the waist in
+water, and sometimes up to the throat. Urgent necessity impelled us
+onward, lest we might have to camp at one of these villages until the
+end of the monsoon rains; so we kept on, over marshy bottoms, up to the
+knees in mire, under jungly tunnels dripping with wet, then into sloughs
+arm-pit deep. Every channel seemed filled to overflowing, yet down
+the rain poured, beating the surface of the river into yellowish foam,
+pelting us until we were almost breathless. Half a day's battling
+against such difficulties brought us, after crossing the river, once
+again to the dismal village of Mvumi.
+
+We passed the night fighting swarms of black and voracious mosquitoes,
+and in heroic endeavours to win repose in sleep, in which we were partly
+successful, owing to the utter weariness of our bodies.
+
+On the 13th we struck out of the village of Mvumi. It had rained the
+whole night, and the morning brought no cessation. Mile after mile we
+traversed, over fields covered by the inundation, until we came to a
+branch river-side once again, where the river was narrow, and too deep
+to ford in the middle. We proceeded to cut a tree down, and so contrived
+that it should fall right across the stream. Over this fallen tree the
+men, bestriding it, cautiously moved before them their bales and
+boxes; but one young fellow, Rojab--through over-zeal, or in sheer
+madness--took up the Doctor's box which contained his letters and
+Journal of his discoveries on his head, and started into the river.
+I had been the first to arrive on the opposite bank, in order to
+superintend the crossing; when I caught sight of this man walking in the
+river with the most precious box of all on his head. Suddenly he fell
+into a deep hole, and the man and box went almost out of sight, while
+I was in an agony at the fate which threatened the despatches.
+Fortunately, he recovered himself and stood up, while I shouted to him,
+with a loaded revolver pointed at his head, "Look out! Drop that bog,
+and I'll shoot you."
+
+All the men halted in their work while they gazed at their comrade
+who was thus imperilled by bullet and flood. The man himself seemed
+to regard the pistol with the greatest awe, and after a few desperate
+efforts succeeded in getting the box safely ashore. As the articles
+within were not damaged, Rojab escaped punishment, with a caution not
+to touch the bog again on any account, and it was transferred to the
+keeping of the sure-footed and perfect pagazi, Maganga.
+
+From this stream, in about an hour, we came to the main river, but one
+look at its wild waters was enough. We worked hard to construct a raft,
+but after cutting down four trees and lashing the green logs together,
+and pushing them into the whirling current, we saw them sink like lead.
+We then tied together all the strong rope in our possession, and made a
+line 180 feet long, with one end of which tied round his body, Chowpereh
+was sent across to lash it to a tree. He was carried far down the
+stream; but being an excellent swimmer, he succeeded in his attempt. The
+bales were lashed around the middle, and, heaved into the stream, were
+dragged through the river to the opposite bank, as well as the tent, and
+such things as could not be injured much by the water. Several of the
+men, as well as myself, were also dragged through the water; each of
+the boys being attended by the best swimmers; but when we came to the
+letter-boxes and valuables, we could suggest no means to take them over.
+Two camps were accordingly made, one on each side of the stream; the one
+on the bank which I had just left occupying an ant-hill of considerable
+height; while my party had to content itself with a flat, miry marsh. An
+embankment of soil, nearly a foot high, was thrown up in a circle thirty
+feet in diameter, in the centre of which my tent was pitched, and around
+it booths were erected.
+
+It was an extraordinary and novel position that we found ourselves in.
+Within twenty feet of our camp was a rising river, with flat, low banks;
+above us was a gloomy, weeping sky; surrounding us on three sides was an
+immense forest, on whose branches we heard the constant, pattering rain;
+beneath our feet was a great depth of mud, black and loathsome; add to
+these the thought that the river might overflow, and sweep us to utter
+destruction.
+
+In the morning the river was still rising, and an inevitable doom seemed
+to hang over us. There was yet time to act--to bring over the people,
+with the most valuable effects of the Expedition--as I considered Dr.
+Livingstone's Journal and letters, and my own papers, of far greater
+value than anything else. While looking at the awful river an idea
+struck me that I might possibly carry the boxes across, one at a time,
+by cutting two slender poles, and tying cross sticks to them, making a
+kind of hand-barrow, on which a box might rest when lashed to it. Two
+men swimming across, at the same time holding on to the rope, with the
+ends of the poles resting on the men's shoulders, I thought, would be
+enabled to convey over a 70 lb. box with ease. In a short time one of
+these was made, and six couples of the strongest swimmers were prepared,
+and stimulated with a rousing glass of stiff grog each man, with a
+promise of cloth to each also if they succeeded in getting everything
+ashore undamaged by the water. When I saw with what ease they dragged
+themselves across, the barrow on their shoulders, I wondered that I had
+not thought of the plan before. Within an hour of the first couple had
+gone over, the entire Expedition was safe on the eastern bank; and at
+once breaking camp, we marched north through the swampy forest, which in
+some places was covered with four feet of water. Seven hours' constant
+splashing brought us to Rehenneko, after experiencing several queer
+accidents. We were now on the verge only of the inundated plain of the
+Makata, which, even with the last year's rain, was too horrible to think
+of undertaking again in cold blood.
+
+We were encamped ten days on a hill near Rehenneko, or until the 25th,
+when, the rain having entirely ceased, we resolved to attempt the
+crossing of the Makata. The bales of cloth had all been distributed
+as presents to the men for their work, except a small quantity which I
+retained for the food of my own mess.
+
+But we should have waited a month longer, for the inundation had not
+abated four inches. However, after we once struggled up to our necks in
+water it was use less to turn back. For two marches of eight hours each
+we plunged through slush, mire, deep sloughs, water up to our necks, and
+muddy cataclysms, swam across nullahs, waded across gullies, and near
+sunset of the second day arrived on the banks of the Makata River. My
+people are not likely to forget that night; not one of them was able
+to sleep until it was long past midnight, because of the clouds of
+mosquitoes, which threatened to eat us all up; and when the horn sounded
+for the march of another day, there was not one dissentient amongst
+them.
+
+It was 5 A.M. when we began the crossing of the Makata River, but beyond
+it for six miles stretched one long lake, the waters of which flowed
+gently towards the Wami. This was the confluence of the streams: four
+rivers were here gathered into one. The natives of Kigongo warned us not
+to attempt it, as the water was over our heads; but I had only to give a
+hint to the men, and we set on our way. Even the water--we were getting
+quite amphibious--was better than the horrible filth and piles of
+decaying vegetation which were swept against the boma of the village.
+
+We were soon up to our armpits, then the water shallowed to the knee,
+then we stepped up to the neck, and waded on tiptoe, supporting the
+children above the water; and the same experiences occurred as those
+which we suffered the day before, until we were halted on the edge of
+the Little Makata, which raced along at the rate of eight knots an hour;
+but it was only fifty yards wide, and beyond it rose a high bank, and
+dry park-lands which extended as far as Simbo. We had no other option
+than to swim it; but it was a slow operation, the current was so swift
+and strong. Activity and zeal, high rewards, presents of money, backed
+by the lively feeling that we were nearing home, worked wonders, and in
+a couple of hours we were beyond the Makata.
+
+Cheery and hopeful, we sped along the dry, smooth path that now lay
+before us, with the ardor and vivacity of heroes, and the ease and power
+of veterans, We rolled three ordinary marches into one that day, and
+long before night arrived at Simbo.
+
+On the 29th we crossed the Ungerengeri, and as we came to
+Simbamwenni-the "Lion City" of Useguhha--lo! what a change! The flooded
+river had swept the entire front wall of the strongly-walled city away,
+and about fifty houses had been destroyed by the torrent. Villages of
+Waruguru, on the slopes of the Uruguru Mountains--Mkambaku range--had
+also suffered disastrously. If one-fourth of the reports we heard were
+true, at least a hundred people must have perished.
+
+The Sultana had fled, and the stronghold of Kimbengo was no more! A deep
+canal that he had caused to be excavated when alive, to bring a branch
+of the Ungerengeri near his city--which was his glory and boast--proved
+the ruin of Simbamwenni. After the destruction of the place the river
+had formed a new bed, about 300 yards from the city. But what astonished
+us most were the masses of debris which seemed to be piled everywhere,
+and the great numbers of trees that were prostrate; and they all seemed
+to lie in the same direction, as if a strong wind had come from
+the south-west. The aspect of the Ungerengeri valley was completely
+changed--from a Paradise it was converted into a howling waste.
+
+We continued our march until we reached Ulagalla, and it was evident,
+as we advanced, that an unusual storm had passed over the land, for the
+trees in some places seemed to lie in swathes.
+
+A most fatiguing and long march brought us to Mussoudi, on the eastern
+bank of the Ungerengeri; but long before we reached it we realized that
+a terrific destruction of human life and property had occurred. The
+extent and nature of the calamity may be imagined, when I state that
+nearly ONE HUNDRED VILLAGES, according to Mussoudi's report, were swept
+away.
+
+Mussoudi, the Diwan, says that the inhabitants had gone to rest as
+usual--as they had done ever since he had settled in the valley,
+twenty-five years ago--when, in the middle of the night, they heard a
+roar like many thunders, which woke them up to the fact that death was
+at work in the shape of an enormous volume of water, that, like a wall,
+came down, tearing the tallest trees with it, carrying away scores of
+villages at one fell, sure swoop into utter destruction. The scene
+six days after the event--when the river has subsided into its normal
+breadth and depth during the monsoons--is simply awful. Wherever we
+look, we find something very suggestive of the devastation that has
+visited the country; fields of corn are covered with many feet of sand
+and debris; the sandy bed the river has deserted is about a mile wide;
+and there are but three villages standing of all that I noticed when en
+route to Unyanyembe. When I asked Mussoudi where the people had gone to,
+he replied, "God has taken most of them, but some have gone to Udoe."
+The surest blow ever struck at the tribe of the Wakami was indeed given
+by the hand of God; and, to use the words of the Diwan, "God's power is
+wonderful, and who can resist Him!"
+
+I again resort to my Diary, and extract the following:
+
+April 30th.--Passing Msuwa, we travelled hurriedly through the jungle
+which saw such hard work with us when going to Unyanyembe. What dreadful
+odors and indescribable loathing this jungle produces! It is so dense
+that a tiger could not crawl through it; it is so impenetrable that
+an elephant could not force his way! Were a bottleful of concentrated
+miasma, such as we inhale herein, collected, what a deadly poison,
+instantaneous in its action, undiscoverable in its properties, would it
+be! I think it would act quicker than chloroform, be as fatal as prussic
+acid.
+
+Horrors upon horrors are in it. Boas above our heads, snakes and
+scorpions under our feet. Land-crabs, terrapins, and iguanas move about
+in our vicinity. Malaria is in the air we breathe; the road is infested
+with "hotwater" ants, which bite our legs until we dance and squirm
+about like madmen. Yet, somehow, we are fortunate enough to escape
+annihilation, and many another traveller might also. Yet here, in
+verity, are the ten plagues of Egypt, through which a traveller in these
+regions must run the gauntlet:
+
+1. Plague of boas. | 7. Suffocation from the 2. Red ants, or
+"hot-water." | density of the jungle. 3 Scorpions. | 8. Stench.
+4. Thorns and spear cacti. | 9. Thorns in the road. 5. Numerous
+impediments. | 10. Miasma. 6 Black mud knee-deep. |
+
+May 1st. Kingaru Hera.--We heard news of a great storm having raged at
+Zanzibar, which has destroyed every house and every ship,--so the story
+runs;--and the same destruction has visited Bagamoyo and Whinde, they
+say. But I am by this time pretty well acquainted with the exaggerative
+tendency of the African. It is possible that serious loss has been
+sustained, from the evidences of the effects of the storm in the
+interior. I hear, also, that there are white men at Bagamoyo, who are
+about starting into the country to look after me (?). Who would look
+after me, I cannot imagine. I think they must have some confused idea of
+my Expedition; though, how they came to know that I was looking for
+any man I cannot conceive, because I never told a soul until I reached
+Unyanyembe.
+
+May 2nd. Rosako.--I had barely arrived at the village before the three
+men I despatched from Mvumi, Ugogo, entered, bringing with them from the
+generous American Consul a few bottles of champagne, a few pots of
+jam, and two boxes of Boston crackers. These were most welcome after my
+terrible experiences in the Makata Valley. Inside one of these boxes,
+carefully put up by the Consul, were four numbers of the 'Herald'; one
+of which contained my correspondence from Unyanyembe, wherein were some
+curious typographical errors, especially in figures and African names.
+I suppose my writing was wretched, owing to my weakness. In another are
+several extracts from various newspapers, in which I learn that many
+editors regard the Expedition into Africa as a myth. Alas! it has been
+a terrible, earnest fact with me; nothing but hard, conscientious
+work, privation, sickness, and almost death. Eighteen men have paid
+the forfeit of their lives in the undertaking. It certainly is not a
+myth--the death of my two white assistants; they, poor fellows, found
+their fate in the inhospitable regions of the interior.
+
+One of my letters received from Zanzibar by my messengers states that
+there is an expedition at Bagamoyo called the "Livingstone Search and
+Relief Expedition." What will the leaders of it do now? Livingstone is
+found and relieved already. Livingstone says he requires nothing more.
+It is a misfortune that they did not start earlier; then they might with
+propriety proceed, and be welcomed.
+
+May 4th.---Arrived at Kingwere's Ferry, but we were unable to attract
+the attention of the canoe paddler. Between our camp and Bagamoyo we
+have an inundated plain that is at least four miles broad. The
+ferrying of our Expedition across this broad watery waste will occupy
+considerable time.
+
+May 5th.--Kingwere, the canoe proprietor, came about 11 A.M. from his
+village at Gongoni, beyond the watery plain. By his movements I am fain
+to believe him to be a descendant of some dusky King Log, for I have
+never seen in all this land the attributes and peculiarities of that
+royal personage so faithfully illustrated as in Kingwere. He brought two
+canoes with him, short, cranky things, in which only twelve of us could
+embark at a time. It was 3 o'clock in the afternoon before we arrived at
+Gongoni village.
+
+May 6th.--After impressing Kingwere with the urgent necessity of quick
+action on his part, with a promise of an extra five-dollar gold piece, I
+had the satisfaction to behold the last man reach my camp at 3.30 p.m.
+
+An hour later, and we are en route, at a pace that I never saw equalled
+at any time by my caravan. Every man's feelings are intensified, for
+there is an animated, nay, headlong, impetuosity about their movements
+that indicates but too well what is going on in their minds. Surely, my
+own are a faithful index to their feelings; and I do not feel a whit too
+proud to acknowledge the great joy that possesses me. I feel proud
+to think that I have been successful; but, honestly, I do not feel so
+elated at that as at the hope that to-morrow I shall sit before a table
+bounteous with the good things of this life. How I will glory in the
+hams, and potatoes, and good bread! What a deplorable state of mind, is
+it not? Ah, my friend, wait till you are reduced to a skeleton by gaunt
+famine and coarse, loathsome food--until you have waded a Makata swamp,
+and marched 525 miles in thirty-five days through such weather as we
+have had--then you will think such pabula, food fit for gods!
+
+Happy are we that,--after completing our mission, after the hurry
+and worry of the march, after the anxiety and vexation suffered from
+fractious tribes, after tramping for the last fifteen days through mire
+and Stygian marsh,--we near Beulah's peace and rest! Can we do otherwise
+than express our happiness by firing away gunpowder until our horns are
+emptied--than shout our "hurrahs" until we are hoarse--than, with the
+hearty, soul-inspiring "Yambos," greet every mother's son fresh from the
+sea? Not so, think the Wangwana soldiers; and I so sympathize with them
+that I permit them to act their maddest without censure.
+
+At sunset we enter the town of Bagamoyo. "More pilgrims come to town,"
+were the words heard in Beulah. "The white man has come to town," were
+the words we heard in Bagamoyo. And we shall cross the water tomorrow to
+Zanzibar, and shall enter the golden gate; we shall see nothing, smell
+nothing, taste nothing that is offensive to the stomach any more!
+
+The kirangozi blows his horn, and gives forth blasts potential as
+Astolpho's, as the natives and Arabs throng around us. And that bright
+flag, whose stars have waved over the waters of the great lake in
+Central Africa, which promised relief to the harassed Livingstone when
+in distress at Ujiji, returns to the sea once again--torn, it is true,
+but not dishonoured--tattered, but not disgraced.
+
+As we reached the middle of the town, I saw on the steps of a large
+white house a white man, in flannels and helmet similar to that I wore.
+I thought myself rather akin to white men in general, and I walked up
+to him. He advanced towards me, and we shook hands--did everything but
+embrace.
+
+"Won't you walk in?" said he.
+
+"Thanks."
+
+"What will you have to drink--beer, stout, brandy? Eh, by George! I
+congratulate you on your splendid success," said he, impetuously.
+
+I knew him immediately. He was an Englishman. He was Lieut. William
+Henn, R.N., chief of the Livingstone Search and Relief Expedition, about
+to be despatched by the Royal Geographical Society to find and relieve
+Livingstone. The former chief, as the Expedition was at first organized,
+was Lieut. Llewellyn S. Dawson, who, as soon as he heard from my men
+that I had found Livingstone, had crossed over to Zanzibar, and, after
+consultation with Dr. John Kirk, had resigned. He had now nothing
+further to do with it, the command having formally devolved on Lieut.
+Henn. A Mr. Charles New, also, missionary from Mombasah, had joined the
+expedition, but he had resigned too. So now there were left but Lieut.
+Henn and Mr. Oswell Livingstone, second son of the Doctor.
+
+"Is Mr. Oswell Livingstone here?" I asked, with considerable surprise.
+
+"Yes; he will be here directly."
+
+"What are you going to do now?" I asked.
+
+"I don't think it worth my while to go now. You have taken the wind out
+of our sails completely. If you have relieved him, I don't see the use
+of my going. Do you?"
+
+"Well, it depends. You know your own orders best. If you have come only
+to find and relieve him, I can tell you truly he is found and relieved,
+and that he wants nothing more than a few canned meats, and some other
+little things which I dare say you have not got. I have his list in his
+own handwriting with me. But his son must go anyhow, and I can get men
+easily enough for him."
+
+"Well, if he is relieved, it is of no use my going."
+
+
+At this time in walked a slight, young, gentlemanly man, with light
+complexion, light hair, dark, lustrous eyes, who was introduced to me
+as Mr. Oswell Livingstone. The introduction was hardly necessary, for in
+his features there was much of what were the specialities of his father.
+There was an air of quiet resolution about him, and in the greeting
+which he gave me he exhibited rather a reticent character; but I
+attributed that to a receptive nature, which augured well for the
+future.
+
+"I was telling Lieut. Henn that, whether he goes or not, you must go to
+your father, Mr. Livingstone."
+
+"Oh, I mean to go."
+
+"Yes, that's right. I will furnish you with men and what stores your
+father needs. My men will take you to Unyanyembe without any difficulty.
+They know the road well, and that is a great advantage. They know how
+to deal with the negro chiefs, and you will have no need to trouble your
+head about them, but march. The great thing that is required is speed.
+Your father will be waiting for the things."
+
+"I will march them fast enough, if that is all."
+
+"Oh, they will be going up light, and they can easily make long
+marches."
+
+It was settled, then. Henn made up his mind that, as the Doctor had been
+relieved, he was not wanted; but, before formally resigning, he intended
+to consult with Dr. Kirk, and for that purpose he would cross over to
+Zanzibar the next day with the 'Herald' Expedition.
+
+At 2 A.M. I retired to sleep on a comfortable bed. There was a great
+smell of newness about certain articles in the bedroom, such as
+haversacks, knapsacks, portmanteaus, leather gun-cases, &c. Evidently
+the new Expedition had some crudities about it; but a journey into the
+interior would soon have lessened the stock of superfluities, which all
+new men at first load themselves with.
+
+Ah! what a sigh of relief was that I gave, as I threw myself on my bed,
+at the thought that, "Thank God! my marching was ended."
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI. -- VALEDICTORY.
+
+At 5 P.M., on the 7th of May, 1872, the dhow which conveyed my
+Expedition back to Zanzibar arrived in the harbor, and the men,
+delighted to find themselves once more so near their homes, fired volley
+after volley, the American flag was hoisted up, and we soon saw the
+house-roofs and wharves lined with spectators, many of whom were
+Europeans, with glasses levelled at us.
+
+We drew ashore slowly; but a boat putting off to take us to land, we
+stepped into it, and I was soon in presence of my friend the Consul, who
+heartily welcomed me back to Zanzibar; and soon after was introduced to
+the Rev. Charles New, who was but a day or two previous to my arrival an
+important member of the English Search Expedition--a small, slight man
+in appearance, who, though he looked weakly, had a fund of energy or
+nervousness in him which was almost too great for such a body. He also
+heartily congratulated me.
+
+After a bounteous dinner, to which I did justice in a manner that
+astonished my new friends, Lieut. Dawson called to see me, and said:
+
+"Mr. Stanley, let me congratulate you, sir."
+
+Lieut. Dawson then went on to state how he envied me my success; how I
+had "taken the wind out of his sails" (a nautical phrase similar to
+that used by Lieut. Henn); how, when he heard from my men that Dr.
+Livingstone had been found, he at once crossed over from Bagamoyo to
+Zanzibar, and, after a short talk with Dr. Kirk, at once resigned.
+
+"But do you not think, Mr. Dawson, you have been rather too hasty in
+tendering your resignation, from the more verbal report of my men?"
+
+"Perhaps," said he; "but I heard that Mr. Webb had received a letter
+from you, and that you and Livingstone had discovered that the Rusizi
+ran into the lake--that you had the Doctor's letters and despatches with
+you."
+
+"Yes; but you acquired all this information from my men; you have seen
+nothing yourself. You have therefore resigned before you had personal
+evidence of the fact."
+
+"Well, Dr. Livingstone is relieved and found, as Mr. Henn tells me, is
+he not?"
+
+"Yes, that is true enough. He is well supplied; he only requires a few
+little luxuries, which I am going to send him by an expedition of fifty
+freemen. Dr. Livingstone is found and relieved, most certainly; and I
+have all the letters and despatches which he could possibly send to his
+friends."
+
+"But don't you think I did perfectly right?"
+
+"Hardly--though, perhaps, it would come to the same thing in the end.
+Any more cloth and beads than he has already would be an incumbrance.
+Still, you have your orders from the Royal Geographical Society. I have
+not seen those yet, and I am not prepared to judge what your best course
+would have been. But I think you did wrong in resigning before you
+saw me; for then you would have had, probably, a legitimate excuse for
+resigning. I should have held on to the Expedition until I had consulted
+with those who sent me; though, in such an event as this, the order
+would be, perhaps, to 'Come home.'"
+
+"As it has turned out, though, don't you think I did right?"
+
+"Most certainly it would be useless for you to go to search for and
+relieve Livingstone now, because he has already been sought, found, and
+relieved; but perhaps you had other orders."
+
+"Only, if I went into the country, I was then to direct my attention to
+exploration; but the primary object having been forestalled by you, I am
+compelled to return home. The Admiralty granted me leave of absence only
+for the search, and never said anything about exploration."
+
+That evening I despatched a boy over to the English Consulate
+with letters from the great traveller for Dr. Kirk and Mr. Oswell
+Livingstone.
+
+I was greeted warmly by the American and German residents, who could not
+have shown warmer feeling than if Dr. Livingstone had been a near and
+dear relation of their own. Capt. H. A. Fraser and Dr. James Christie
+were also loud in their praises. It seems that both of these gentlemen
+had attempted to despatch a private expedition to the relief of their
+countryman, but through some means it had failed. They had contributed
+the sum of $500 to effect this laudable object; but the man to whom they
+had entrusted its command had been engaged by another for a different
+purpose, at a higher sum. But, instead of feeling annoyed that I
+had performed what they had intended to do, they were among my most
+enthusiastic admirers.
+
+The next day I received a call from Dr. Kirk, who warmly congratulated
+me upon my success. Bishop Tozer also came, and thanked me for tie
+service I had rendered to Dr. Livingstone.
+
+On this day I also discharged my men, and re-engaged twenty of them
+to return to the "Great Master." Bombay, though in the interior he had
+scorned the idea of money rewards, and though he had systematically,
+in my greatest need, endeavoured to baffle me in every way, received,
+besides his pay, a present of $50, and each man, according to his
+merits, from $20 to $50. For this was a day to bury all animosities,
+and condone all offences. They, poor people, had only acted according to
+their nature, and I remembered that from Ujiji to the coast they had all
+behaved admirably.
+
+I saw I was terribly emaciated and changed when I presented myself
+before a full-length mirror. All confirmed my opinion that I was much
+older in my appearance, and that my hair had become grey. Capt. Fraser
+had said, when I hailed him, "You have the advantage of me, sir!" and
+until I mentioned my name he did not know me. Even then he jocosely
+remarked that he believed that it was another Tichborne affair. I was so
+different that identity was almost lost, even during the short period of
+thirteen months; that is, from March 23rd, 1871, to May 7th, 1872.
+
+Lieut. Henn the morning after my arrival formally resigned, and the
+Expedition was from this time in the hands of Mr. Oswell Livingstone,
+who made up his mind to sell the stores, retaining such as would be
+useful to his father.
+
+After disbanding my Expedition, I set about preparing another, according
+to Dr. Livingstone's request. What the English Expedition lacked I
+purchased out of the money advanced by Mr. Oswell Livingstone. The guns,
+fifty in number, were also furnished out of the stores of the English
+Expedition by him; and so were the ammunition, the honga cloth, for the
+tribute to the Wagogo, and the cloth for provisioning the force. Mr.
+Livingstone worked hard in the interests of his father and assisted me
+to the utmost of his ability. He delivered over to me, to be packed
+up, 'Nautical Almanacs' for 1872, 1873, 1874; also a chronometer,
+which formerly belonged to Dr. Livingstone. All these things, besides a
+journal, envelopes, note-books, writing-paper, medicines, canned fruits
+and fish, a little wine, some tea, cutlery and table ware, newspapers,
+and private letters and despatches, were packed up in air-tight tin
+boxes, as well as 100 lbs. of fine American flour, and some boxes of
+soda biscuits.
+
+Until the 19th of May it was understood that Mr. Oswell Livingstone
+would take charge of the caravan to his father; but about this date he
+changed his mind, and surprised me with a note stating he had decided
+not to go to Unyanyembe, for reasons he thought just and sufficient.
+
+Under these circumstances, my duty was to follow out the instructions of
+Dr. Livingstone, in procuring a good and efficient leader to take charge
+of the caravan as far as Unyanyembe.
+
+In a few hours I succeeded in obtaining an Arab highly recommended from
+Sheikh Hashid, whom I engaged at an advance of $100. The young Arab,
+though not remarkably bright, seemed honest and able, but I left his
+further employment after reaching Unyanyembe to Dr. Livingstone, who
+would be able to decide then whether he was quite trustworthy.
+
+The next day I collected the men of the new Livingstone Expedition
+together, and as it was dangerous to allow them to wander about the
+city, I locked them up in a courtyard, and fed them there, until every
+soul, fifty seven in number, answered to their names.
+
+In the meantime, through the American Consul's assistance, I obtained
+the services of Johari, the chief dragoman of the American Consulate,
+who was charged with the conduct of the party across the inundated plain
+of the Kingani, and who was enjoined on no account to return until the
+Expedition had started on its march from the western bank of the Kingani
+River. Mr. Oswell Livingstone generously paid him a douceur for the
+promise of doing his work thoroughly.
+
+A dhow having been brought to anchor before the American Consulate, I
+then addressed my old companions, saying, "You are now about to return
+to Unyanyembe, to the 'Great Master'. You know him; you know he is a
+good man, and has a kind heart. He is different from me; he will not
+beat you, as I have done. But you know I have rewarded you all--how
+I have made you all rich in cloth and money. You know how, when you
+behaved yourselves well, I was your friend. I gave you plenty to eat and
+plenty to wear. When you were sick I looked after you. If I was so
+good to you, the 'Great Master' will be much more so. He has a pleasant
+voice, and speaks kind. When did you ever see him lift his hand against
+an offender? When you were wicked, he did not speak to you in anger--he
+spoke to you in tones of sorrow. Now, will you promise me that you will
+follow him--do what he tells you, obey him in all things, and not desert
+him?"
+
+"We will, we will, my master!" they all cried, fervently.
+
+"Then there is one thing more. I want to shake hands with you all before
+you go--and we part for ever;" and they all rushed up at once, and a
+vigorous shake was interchanged with each man.
+
+"Now, let every man take up his load!"
+
+In a short time I marched them out into the street, and to the beach;
+saw them all on board, and the canvas hoisted, and the dhow speeding
+westward on her way to Bagamoyo.
+
+I felt strange and lonely, somehow. My dark friends, who had travelled
+over so many hundreds of miles, and shared so many dangers with me, were
+gone, and I--was left behind. How many of their friendly faces shall I
+see again?
+
+On the 29th, the steamer 'Africa,' belonging to the German Consulate,
+was chartered by a party of five of us, and we departed from Zanzibar to
+Seychelles, with the good wishes of almost all the European residents on
+the island.
+
+We arrived at Seychelles on the 9th of June, about twelve hours
+after the French mail had departed for Aden. As there is only monthly
+communication between Mahe (Seychelles) and Aden, we were compelled to
+remain on the island of Mahe one month.
+
+My life in Mahe is among the most agreeable things connected with my
+return from Africa. I found my companions estimable gentlemen, and true
+Christians. Mr. Livingstone exhibited many amiable traits of character,
+and proved himself to be a studious, thoughtful, earnest man. When at
+last the French steamer came from Mauritius, there was not one of
+our party who did not regret leaving the beautiful island, and the
+hospitable British officers who were stationed there. The Civil
+Commissioner, Mr. Hales Franklyn, and Dr. Brooks, did their utmost to
+welcome the wanderer, and I take this opportunity to acknowledge the
+many civilities I personally received from them.
+
+At Aden, the passengers from the south were transferred on board the
+French mail steamer, the 'Mei-kong,' en route from China to Marseilles.
+At the latter port I was received with open arms by Dr. Hosmer and
+the representative of the 'Daily Telegraph,' and was then told how men
+regarded the results of the Expedition; but it was not until I arrived
+in England that I realised it.
+
+Mr. Bennett, who originated and sustained the enterprise, now crowned it
+by one of the most generous acts that could be conceived. I had promised
+Dr. Livingstone, that twenty-four hours after I saw his letters to Mr.
+Bennett published in the London journals, I would post his letters to
+his family and friends in England. In order to permit me to keep my
+plighted word, and in order that there might be no delay in the delivery
+of his family letters, Mr. Bennett's agent telegraphed to New York the
+'Herald' letters I had received from Dr. Livingstone at an expense of
+nearly L2,000.
+
+And now, dear reader, the time has come for you and I to part. Let us
+hope that it is not final. A traveller finds himself compelled to repeat
+the regretful parting word often. During the career recorded in the
+foregoing book, I have bidden many farewells; to the Wagogo, with their
+fierce effrontery; to Mionvu, whose blackmailing once so affected me; to
+the Wavinza, whose noisy clatter promised to provoke dire hostilities;
+to the inhospitable Warundi; to the Arab slave-traders and half-castes;
+to all fevers, remittent, and intermittent; to the sloughs and swamps
+of Makata; to the brackish waters and howling wastes; to my own
+dusky friends and followers, and to the hero-traveller and Christian
+gentleman, David Livingstone. It is with kindliest wishes to all
+who have followed my footsteps on these pages that I repeat once
+more--Farewell.
+
+
+
+CONCLUDING CHAPTER.
+
+
+The following correspondence, and especially the last letter, which
+was accompanied by a beautiful and valuable gold snuff-box set with
+brilliants, will be treasured by me as among the pleasantest results of
+my undertaking.
+
+H. M. S.
+
+Foreign Office, August 1.
+
+Sir, I am directed by Earl Granville to acknowledge the receipt of a
+packet containing letters and despatches from Dr. Livingstone, which
+you were good enough to deliver to her Majesty's ambassador at Paris
+for transmission to this department; and I am to convey to you his
+Lordship's thanks for taking charge of these interesting documents.
+
+I am, Sir,
+
+Your most obedient humble servant, ENFIELD.
+
+Henry M. Stanley, Esq., 'New York Herald Bureau,' 46, Fleet Street,
+London,
+
+------ooo----
+
+
+
+London, August 2.
+
+Henry M. Stanley, Esq., has handed to me to-day the diary of
+Dr. Livingstone, my father, sealed and signed by my father, with
+instructions written on the outside, signed by my father, for the care
+of which, and for all his actions concerning and to my father, our very
+best thanks are due. We have not the slightest reason to doubt that this
+is my father's journal, and I certify that the letters he has brought
+home are my father's letters, and no others.
+
+Tom S. Livingstone
+
+------------oooo-------
+
+August 2, 1872.
+
+Sir, I was not aware until you mentioned it that there was any doubt as
+to the authenticity of Dr. Livingstone's despatches, which you delivered
+to Lord Lyons on the 31st of July. But, in consequence of what you
+said I have inquired into the matter, and I find that Mr. Hammond, the
+Under-Secretary of the Foreign Office, and Mr. Wylde, the head of the
+Consular and Slave Trade Department, have not the slightest doubt as to
+the genuineness of the papers which have been received from Lord Lyons,
+and which are being printed.
+
+I cannot omit this opportunity, of expressing to you my admiration
+of the qualities which have enabled you to achieve the object of your
+mission, and to attain a result which has been hailed with so much
+enthusiasm both in the United States and in this country.
+
+I am, Sir,
+
+Your obedient,
+
+GRANVILLE.
+
+Henry Stanley, Esq.
+
+
+-------------oooo-------
+
+Foreign Office, August 27.
+
+SIR,
+
+I have great satisfaction in conveying to you, by command of the Queen,
+her Majesty's high appreciation of the prudence and zeal which you have
+displayed in opening a communication with Dr. Livingstone, and relieving
+her Majesty from the anxiety which, in common with her subjects, she had
+felt in regard to the fate of that distinguished traveller.
+
+The Queen desires me to express her thanks for the service you have thus
+rendered, together with her Majesty's congratulations on your having so
+successfully carried on the mission which you fearlessly undertook. Her
+Majesty also desires me to request your acceptance of the memorial which
+accompanies this letter.
+
+I am, Sir,
+
+Your most obedient humble servant,
+
+GRANVILLE
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  GLOSSARY.
+
+  Boma.......   enclosure.
+
+  Bubu.......   black beads.
+
+  Diwan......   elder, chief, or magistrate.
+
+  Doti......   four yards of cloth.
+
+  Dowa......   medicine.
+
+  Fundo......    ten necklaces, or ten khetes.
+
+  Ghulabio.....    a species of bead.
+
+  Hafde .....    a species of bead.
+
+  Hamal .....    carrier.
+
+  Honga .....    tribute.
+
+  Ismahili.....    a native name for a particular kind of cloth.
+
+  Kadunguru.....    a brick-coloured species of bead.
+
+  Kaif-Halek....    "How do you do?"
+
+  Kaniki   ....    a blue cloth manufactured in India.
+
+  Knambi   ....    camp.
+
+  Khete   ....    one necklace, or a tenth of a fundo.
+
+  Kichuma-chuma...    "Little Irons," a disease of the liver.
+
+  Kirangozi....      guide.
+
+  Kitambi ....      a cloth.
+
+  Kiti.....      stool.
+
+  Lakhio.....      a pink-coloured species of bead.
+
+  Lunghio.....      blue beads.
+
+  Lunghio mbamba...      small blue beads.
+
+  Lunghio rega...      large blue beads.
+
+  M    .....      a prefix to denote a person of any
+                              country as M-jiji, a native of Jiji.
+
+  Manyapara....      elder, or sub-chief.
+
+  Matama.....      Holcus sorghum, or the Arabic dourra.
+
+  Mbembu.....      forest peach
+
+  Merikani.....      unbleached domestics manufactured in
+                              America.
+
+  Mganga.....      a medicine man, or magic doctor,
+
+  Miezi-Mungu....      a Kisawahili term for "God."
+
+  Mtemi   ....      a term synonymous with king
+
+  Mtoni.....      nullah.
+
+  Muhongo.....      tribute.
+
+  Mulungu.....      a native term for "God."
+
+  Mukunguru....      intermittent fever.
+
+  Mvuha.....      thunder.
+
+  Ngombe.....      a cow.
+
+  Pagazi.....      a porter, or carrier.
+
+  Posho.....      food.
+
+  Sami-Sami....      the name of red beads
+
+  Shamba.....      a field.
+
+  Shasr.....      a muslin cloth.
+
+  Sheikh.....      a title of courtesy given to an elderly
+                              man.
+
+  Shukka.....      two yards of cloth.
+
+  Sohari.....      a kind of coloured cloth.
+
+  Sungomazzi....      large glass or china beads of the size
+                              of marbles.
+
+  Toujiri.....      the name for a particular kind of cloth.
+
+  U    .....      a prefix to denote the country: thus
+                              U-jiji signifies the country of Jiji.
+
+  Uganga.....      medicine.
+
+  Wa-  .....     a prefix to denote persons: thus Wa-jiji
+                              would signify people of Jiji.
+
+  Washeni.....     a term of contempt applied to the natives.
+
+  Yambo.....     "How are you?"
+
+  Ziwa .....     a pool, or lake,
+
+  Ziwari.....     a pond.
+
+
+
+
+  APPENDIX.
+
+  List of Camps from Bagamoyo to Ujiji and back to the Sea.
+
+
+  THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA.
+
+  From Bagamoyo to--     h.  m.
+  Shamba Gonera...  1  30
+  Kikoka.....   3  40
+  Rosako.....  5   0
+  Kingaru....  6   0
+  Imbiki.....  4  30
+  Msuwa.....  4  30
+
+  From Msuwa to--        h.  m.
+  Kisemo.....  4  30
+  Mussoudi....  4  20
+  Mikeseh....  7   0
+  Muhalleh....  6  45
+  Simbamwenni...  3   0
+
+  TO UGOGO.
+
+  USEGUHA,
+  Ungerengeri River to-- h.  m
+  Simbo.....  2   0
+  Camp in plain...  4  10
+  Makata River...  2  30
+
+  USAGARA.
+  Camp west of Makata.   0   5
+  Camp in plain...  4  30
+  Camp  "   "...  2   0
+  Rehenneko....  3  15
+  Rehenneko to--         h.  m.
+  Camp on mountain..  3  30
+  Kiora.....  3  40
+  Camp on river...  4  50
+  Madete.....  2  30
+  Lake Ugombo....  3   0
+  Matamombo....  6   0
+  Mpwapwa.....  7   0
+  Kisokweh....  2   0
+  Chunyo.....  1  30
+
+
+  FROM UGOGO TO UNYANYEMBE,
+
+  From Marenga Mkali to--h.  m.
+  Mvumi, Little Ugogo   12  30
+  Mvumi, Great Ugogo     4   0
+  Matamburu  "   ".   4   0
+  Bihawana   "   ".   4   0
+  Kididimo   "   ".   2   0
+  Pembera Pereh  ".  10   0
+  Mizanza    "   ".   5  30
+  Mukondoku  "   ".   6  30
+  Munieka    "   ".   5   0
+  Mabunguru Mtoni.
+         Uyanzi          8   0
+  Kiti, Uyanzi...   6  30
+  Msalalo....   6  30
+
+  From Msalalo to--      h.  m.
+  Welled Ngaraiso..   3  30
+  Kusuri.....   3  15
+  Mgongo Tembo...   3  30
+    "      "   Mtoni.   3  30
+  Nghwhalah Mtoni..   2  40
+  Madedita ...   2  30
+  Central Tura, Unyam-
+     wezi....   3   0
+  Kwala River...   7   0
+  Rubuga....   7  15
+  Kigwa ....   5   0
+  Shiza ....   7   0
+  Kwihara....   3   0
+
+
+  UNYANYEMBE TO MRERA, UKONONG0.
+
+
+  UNYAMWEZI.
+  From Kwihara to--      h.  m.
+  Mkwenkwe...    1  30
+  Inesuka ...    2   0
+  Kasegera...    3   0
+  Kigandu ...    2  45
+  Ugunda  ...    7   0
+  Benta   ...    3  15
+  Kikuru  ...    5   0
+  Ziwani  ...    4   0
+  Manyara ...    6  30
+
+  UKONONG0.
+  From Manyara to--      h.  m
+  Gombe River...    4  15
+  Ziwani....    5  20
+  Tongoni....    1  30
+  Camp ....    5  15
+  Marefu....    3   0
+  Utende....    7  15
+  Mtoni....    4   0
+  Mwaru....    5  15
+  Mrera.....    5  13
+
+
+  FROM MRERA, UKONONGO TO UJIJI.
+
+
+
+  UKONONGO,              h.  m.
+
+  From Mrera to Mtoni.  4  30
+  Misonghi....  4  30
+  Mtoni.....  6   0
+  Mpokwa in Utanda..  4  45
+  Mtoni  ....  3   0
+
+  UKAWENDI.              h.  m
+
+  Mtambu River...   4  30
+  Imrera....   4  20
+  Rusawa Mts....   2  30
+  Mtoni ....   4   0
+  Mtoni ....   5   0
+  Camp in Forest... 6   0
+  Camp in Forest... 5  30
+
+  UVINZA
+  Welled Nzogera... 2  30
+  Camp in Forest... 4  15
+  Siala [Kiala?] on the
+     Malagarazi... 2  45
+  Ihata Island in the
+     Malagarazi... 1  30
+  Katalambula... 1  45
+
+  UHHA
+  Kawanga in Uhha..   5  30
+  Lukomo....   1   0
+  Kahirigi....   4   0
+  Rusugi River...   5   0
+  Lake Musunya...   4   0
+  Rugufu River...   4  30
+  Sunuzzi  "...   3   0
+  Niamtaga Ukaranga.   9  30
+
+  UJIJI.
+  Port of Ujiji..   6   0
+
+
+
+
+
+  INDEX
+
+  Abdul Kader, tailor of the Expedition; retirement of,
+  Abdullah bin Nasib,
+  Acacia Horrida,
+  African bridges,
+  Ali bin Salim,
+  Ambari,
+  Amer bin Sultan, type of an old Arab Sheikh,
+  Amram bin Mussood,
+  Ant-hills, remarkable,
+  Ants, white, destructiveness of,
+  Arabs, antipathy to, as slave-traders, in Africa,
+  Aranselar, chief butler of the Expedition,
+  Asmani, giant statue of;
+      his murderous deportment,
+
+  Baba (Father), term of courtesy in addressing elderly persons,
+  Bagamoyo, French Mission Station at; life at; climate of,
+  Bambarre, ivory depot,
+  Bana Mikuba, the "Big Master,'
+  Bangwe Island,
+  Bangweolo Lake,
+  Banyans, keen trading of;
+    their influence on African trade,
+  Baobab, fruit of the,
+  Baruti, one of Speke's Faithfuls,
+     death of,
+  Beads as currency in the Interior,
+  Bees, attack of, on the caravan,
+  Bemba, wooded hills of,
+  Bennet, Mr. James Gordon;
+     generous act of, in respect
+     to Dr. Livingstone's letters,
+  Benta forest,
+  Bihawana,
+  Bikari, cluster of villages,
+  "Bombay," or Mombay,
+  Bomboma's village,
+  Borassus flabelliformis, or Palmyra palm,
+  Brooks, Dr.,
+  Buffalo gnats,
+  ----herd,
+  Bunder Salaam, cook of the Expedition,
+  Burial ceremonies,
+  Burton, Capt., experience of Bunyans,
+  Bustard,
+
+  Cazembe, King; his Queen and her Amazons,
+  Chamati Hill,
+  Chambezi, drainage of,
+  Chambezi, Livingstone's difficulty about the,
+  "Charley's" lodging-house at Zanzibar, kindly spirit of its
+  landlord,
+  Chowpereh, Mgwana soldier,,
+  Christie, Dr., physician to Seyd Burghash
+  Chufwa fly,
+  Chuma, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+  Cloth as currency in the interior,
+  Comorines,
+  Corn-grinding women of Kisemo,
+  Crocodile, narrow escape of author from,
+
+  'Daily Telegraph,' representative of, at Aden,
+  Dawson, Lieut., visit from, conversation as to his resigning
+  command of the Search Expedition
+  Dhows,
+  Dilima Peaks,
+  Dogara, or whitebait,
+  Donkeys, equipment of; fine breed of, in Ubanarama,
+  "Dowa," medicine,
+
+  Earwigs, plague of, at Mpwapwa,
+  Elephantiasis common in Zanzibar,
+  Elephants, herd of; difficulty of shooting,
+  Emancipation Proclamation of Ahraham Lincoln,
+  Esau, Jemadar,
+
+  Farquhar, W. L.;
+     his death; account of,
+  Faulkner, Mr., incredible statements of,
+  Ferajji,
+  Fire-arms, what most suitable to the traveller
+  Fish-eagle,
+  Forest peach,
+  Forest scenery of Unyarnwezi,
+  Foreign Office, letters from,
+  Franklyn, Mr. Hales,
+  Fraser, Capt.,
+  Freiligrath's description of the lion's habitat,
+  French Mlissionaries, practical character of; Mission Station
+     at Bagamoyo,
+
+  Giraffes, difficulty of killing,
+  Glossina mortisans, or tsetse fly
+  Goma Pass;
+  Granville, Lord, letter from, conveying the thanks of Queen
+    Victoria and the announcement of the Royal present,
+  Goodhue, Mr., or "Bana Mkuba."
+
+  Haematite,
+  Half-castes, contemptible character
+  Halimah, Dr. Livingstone's cook,
+  Hassan, the Mseguhha,
+  Henn Lieut, his meeting with the author; resigns the leadership
+  Herembe, Cape,
+  Herodotus, his account of the Nile sources,
+  Hindis, Mohammedan, cheating character of,
+  Hippopotami
+  Honey-bird; habits of,
+  Honga, or tribute,
+  Hosmer, Dr.,
+  Hunters Paradise, the,
+  Hyaenas,
+
+  Ibrahim bin Rashid slain,
+  Ihata Island,
+  Imbiki,
+  Itage village,
+
+  Jako, employe of the Expedition,
+  Jesuit Mission at Pagamoyo,
+  Jiweh la Singa district,
+  Johari, dragoman,
+  Jumah,
+  Jungle of Msuwa, its horrors,
+
+  Kabogi, Cape,
+  Kabogo Mountain, singular phenomenon of,
+  Kadetamare, or Misonghi, village,.
+  Kahirigi, boma of,
+  Kaif-Halek or "How-do-ye-do," the letter carrier,
+  Kalulu, the boy-slave,
+  Kamolondo Lake,
+  Kanengi River,
+  Kaniyaga village
+  Kanjee,
+  Kanyamabengu River,
+  Kanyenyi,
+  Kayeh, a myth,
+  Kasera ridge,
+  Katanga, copper mines of,
+  Katangara Islands,
+  Kavimba,
+  Khamis bin Abdullah; his death,
+  Khamisi, desertion of; his narrow escape; flogged for
+          desertion; precis of character,
+  Khonze, remarkable globes of foliage at
+  Kiala, chief,
+  Kigoma Bay,
+  Kigonda, chief,
+  Kigwena River,
+  Kikoka village,
+  Kikuma River,
+  Kingari River,
+  ----    Valley,
+  Kingaru village
+  Kingwere, the canoe paddler
+  Kiora village,; Peak
+  Kirindo, chief,
+  Kirurumo village,
+  Kisabengo, chief, a minor Theodore,
+  Kisemo village; belles of,
+  Kisuka village,
+  Kisunwe River,
+  Kitanda or bedstead,
+  Kitii defile,
+  Kitunda Cape,
+  Kiwyeh, Sultan of; village,
+  Kiwrima Valley,
+  Kolquall or candelabra tree,
+  Kudu,
+  Kukumba Point,
+  Kulabi,
+  Kusuri or Konsuli,
+  Kwala Mtoni,
+  Kwikuru,
+
+  Lares and Penates of the Wazavira,
+  Leukole's account of Farquhar's death,
+  Liemba, Lake,
+  Lincoln, Abraham, lake named after, by Livingstone,
+  Lion and leopard, home of the; Freiligrath's description of,
+  Liuche, valley of the,
+  Livingstone, Dr., the author's first interview with, at Ujiji;
+       his anxiety for news; the low ebb of his resources;
+       his early rising; took the author for an emissary of the
+       French Government; his hard fare; his suffering and privations;
+       revival of his enthusiasm; his guileless character;
+       his physical appearance,; absurd report of his marriage,
+       his general character and careful observations; sensitiveness
+       of criticism; amiable traits of his character, and his Spartan
+       heroism; his high spirits, inexhaustible humour, and retentive
+       memory; sincerity of his religion; ability to withstand the
+       African climate, due to his temperate life; his determination
+       to complete his task, spite of all difficulties, completeness
+       of his discoveries; summary of his experiences; interview with
+       King Cazembe; difficulty as to the Chambezi; discovery of Lake
+       Liemba; investigation of the Luapula; intervention in behalf of
+       Mahomed bin Sali repaid by base ingratitude; exploration of Uguhha;
+       sufferings at Bambarre, discovery of the Lualaba, description of
+       the beauties of Moero scenery; admiration of Abraham Lincoln;
+       his belief that the Lualaba or Webb's River is the true Nile;
+       his admission that the Nile sources have not been found;
+       his opinion as to the account of Herodotus; thwarted by the
+       cowardice of his men; return to Ujiji; dishonesty of Sherif;
+       destitute condition of the Doctor, his complaint of the Zanzibar
+       people not sending him freemen; improvement of his health from
+       more generous diet, contemplated cruise on the Tanganika; start
+       from Ujiji; liability to dysentery; manner of dealing with demands
+       for honga; loss of stores, &c., from Bombay's intoxication
+       his unwillingness to retaliate on the hostile natives, his
+       tenderness in sickness, disturbed in bed by his servant Susi in
+       a state of intoxication; his opinion that the Tanganika must have
+       an outlet; names the Kavunvweh islands the "New York Herald
+       Islets,"; his coolness at the hostility of the Wasansi, calms
+       them down by his gentle bearing and conversation; his resolve
+       to finish his task,; complaint of Dr. Kirk's sending only slaves;
+       resolves to accompany the author to Unyanyembe; his sufferings on
+       the road; at Mpokwa's village,; his value as a travelling companion;
+       stung by wild bees; his qualifications as a traveller,
+       peaceful recollections of his wife's grave, his relation of
+       incidents of the life of his son Robert; arrival at Ugundo,
+       letters from Dr. Kirk and home; welcome to Unyanyembe; in
+       comfortable quarters and in possession of stores; wreck of the
+       stores detained by Sayd bin Salim; in possession of four years'
+       store of supplies; his letter to Mr. Bennett, jun.; probable
+       results of his perseverance in African discovery; his last day
+       with the author; his intentions as to the future; the parting
+       farewell,
+  Livingstone, Mr. Oswell, introduction to; equipment of his proposed
+      expedition; determines to resign,
+  Livingstone, Robert Moffatt, incidents of his life,
+  Lizard, large,
+  Loeki or Lomani River,
+  Lualaba or "Webb's River" of Livingstone; thought by him to be the
+      true Nile,
+  Luapula River,
+  Lubilash River,
+  Ludha Damji,
+  Lufira River,
+  Luhanga Peak,
+  Lukomo village,
+  Luvumba Cape,
+
+  Mabruki, cruel treatment of;
+  Mabunguru Nullah,
+  Madedita,
+  Magala, Mutware of,
+  Maganga,
+  Magunda Mkali,
+  Mahommed bin Sali, his release by Livingstone and subsequent
+        ingratitude,
+  Maizun, Mons.,
+  Makata Valley; River; Plain,
+  Makumbi, chief,
+  Malagash, Inlet,
+  Malagarazi River,
+  Manyuema country, people of; the El Dorado of the Arabs; sought
+        as slaves,
+  Maganga,
+  Marefu,
+  Marenga Mkali,
+  Masangi,
+  Masika, or rainy season,
+  Matamombo,
+  Mazitu, marauding propensities of,
+  Mbawala, species of antelope,
+  Mbembu, or forest peach,
+  Mdaburu River,
+  Medicine for daubing warriors,
+  Mfuto, Eastern,
+  Mgongo Tembo, or "Elephant's Back,"
+  Mgwana,
+  Mikiseh,
+  Mionvu, Mutware of Kimenyi,
+  Mirambo; defeated at Mfuto,
+  Misonghi, deserted village,
+  Mizanza,
+  Mkuti River,
+  Mkuyu, gigantic sycamore,
+  Moero Lake; beauty of the scenery,
+  Mohammed bin Abdulla slain,
+  Mohammed bin Gharib,
+  Monkeys, troop of,
+  Morris, Hon. E. J.,
+  Mpokwa River,
+  Mponda, chief,
+  Mpwapwh, its fruitfulness;
+        Mountains,
+  Mrera, chief,
+  ---, warriors of,
+  Msuwa,
+  Mtemi, chief,
+  Mud-fish,
+  Mugere River,
+  Mugeyo village,
+  Mugihewa territory,
+  Mukamba, chief,
+  Mukondoku, chief,
+  Mukondokwa Range; Pass; River,
+  Mukungu,
+  Mukunguru, African intermittent fever,
+  Munieka,
+  Muniyi Usagara,
+  Murembwe Cape; Point,
+  Musa, chief of the Johanna men,
+  Muscat Arabs of Zanzibar,
+  Mussoudi, the Diwan's account of an extraordinary flood,
+  Musunya Lake,
+  Muzimu Island,
+  Mvumi village,
+  Mwaru,
+  Myombo tree,
+  Mussoud bin Abdhullah,
+  Mussoudi; beautiful prospect at,
+
+  "Nazi-Moya" at Zanzibar,
+  Negroes of Zanzibar; character of,
+  New, Rev. Charles, introduction to,
+  "New York Herald" Islets,
+  Ngaraiso village,
+  Nghwhalah River,
+  Nguru Peak,
+  Niamtaga,
+  Niasanga village,
+  Niongo,
+  Nondo, Spoke's runaway,
+  Nyabigma Island,
+  Nyambwa,
+  Nzoe, antelope of Speke,
+
+  "Omar," Mr. Stanley's watchdog; death of,
+
+  Pallah buck,
+  Pembera Pereh, Sultan,
+  Perpusilla, the,
+  Piaggia, the Italian traveller,
+  Pisolitic limestone,
+  Pottery, native, of the Wazavira,
+  Price, Simon, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+
+  Queen Victoria, letter conveying the thanks of Her Majesty and
+  the announcement of the Royal present,
+
+  Rehenneko village,
+  Rosako village,
+  Rua country; people,
+  Rubeho Slopes; Peak,
+  Rubuga,
+  Rudewa River,
+  Rugufu Lake,
+  Ruhinga, chief,
+  Rusizi River; problem of; delta of,
+
+  Said bin Majid,
+  Salim bin Rashid,
+  Sultana of Simbamwenni,
+  Sami-sami, red beads,
+  Sayf, son of Ali, slain,
+  Sayd bin Salim's house,
+  Selim, interpreter,
+  ----, the Arab boy,
+  Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar,
+  Sitting on pombe,
+  Sentakeyi, Cape,
+  Shaw, J. W.; leaves the expedition,
+  Shamba Gonera, or, "Gonera's Field," good disposition of the
+          Indian widow towards the whites; appearance of the place,
+          trade, &c.,
+  Sheikh Sayd bin Selim,
+  -----  Hamed,
+  -----  Hassid,
+  -----  Khamis bin Abdullah,
+  -----  bin Nasib,
+  -----  Sulton bin Ali,
+  -----  Thani,
+  Sherif, Dr. Livingstone's servant; dishonesty of,
+  Shiza,
+  Sigunga,
+  Simbamwenni; desolation of by flood,
+  ----------, Sultana of,
+  Simba, ruler of Kasera,
+  Simbo,
+  Simbo, Khambi,
+  Singwe, a plum-like fruit,
+  Slave-gang, chained,
+  Sofi beads,
+  Somalis;
+  Soor Hadji Palloo,
+  Soud, the Arab,
+  ----, son of Sayd bin Majid,
+  ----, bin Sayd, his attack on Wilyankura; his death,
+  Speke, Capt., his "Faithfuls"; treatment of "Bombay" by;
+         error of, as to altitude of Tanganika,
+  Stanley, Mr., start from Bombay; landing at Zanzibar; hospitable
+        reception by Capt. Webb; impressions of the city;
+        organization of the Expedition; visit to the Sultan; departure
+        from Zanzibar; landing at Bagamoyo; troublesome experiences;
+        visit to the "Livingstone caravan"; preparations for departure
+        into the interior, difficulties with employes; chase after a
+        thief, despatch of four caravans; departure of the fifth caravan,
+        led by himself; members composing it and outfit; the start,
+        first camp; Shamba Gonera; crossing the Kingani; hippopotami
+        shooting; Kikoka village; halt at Rosako; "Omar" watchdog,
+        missing; formidable number of insects, the tsetse-fly; game
+        hunting; difficulty of penetrating an African jungle; camp at
+        Kingaru; the grey Arab horse, and offence given by its interment;
+        interview with the king of Kingaru; loss of the re maiming horse
+        from cancer; desertion and sickness; appearance of Maganga's
+        caravan march to Imbiki; reach Msuwa, perils of the jungle,
+        astonishment of the chief; chained slave-gang; halt at
+        Kisemo; belle of; narrow escape of Khamisi; flogged for
+        desertion; reach Mussoudi; beautiful prospect; cross the
+        Ungerengeri start for Mikeseh; Ulagalla and Muhalleh;
+        overtake Maganga's caravan; meet with Selim bin Rashid,
+        news of Livingstone; pass town of Simbamwenni; its
+        fortifications; curiosity of the inhabitants; two
+        days' halt and overhaul of the luggage, attack of ague;
+        visit of ambassadors of the Sultana of Simbamwenni;
+        wretched encampment on the Ungerengeri; difficulty of
+        crossing the river; Makata Valley; loss of Bombay's
+        equipage,; difficulties of the Makata Valley; escape
+        and capture of Kingaru; emerge from the swamp Makata,
+        attack of dysentery, halt at Reheneko; ascent of the
+        Usagara Mountains; Mukondokwa Valley and River; Kiora;
+        camp at, illness of Farquhar; ford of the Mukondokwa
+        River; Madete, Lake of Ugombe; departure from Ugombo;
+        camp at Matamombo, death of of the dog "Omar"; Sheikh
+        Thani in clover at Mpwapwa, a good breakfast and
+        dinner, Farquhar left to be nursed; twelve pagazis
+        engaged, abundance of earwigs and white ants; Chunyo,
+        badness of the water; Marenga Mkali waterless district;
+        attack of fever; Ugogo; frantic conduct of the population;
+        West Mvumi; the Sultan's exorbitant demand of honda;
+        Matamburu, reasonableness of the Sultan of; Bihiwana;
+        attack of intermittent fever; Kididimo, bleak aspect
+        and bad water; Nyambwa, demonstrativeness of the people;
+        Mizanza; benefit from quinine; visit from the Sultan;
+        Little Mukondoku; Mukondoku Proper; commotion and
+        cowardice; uproar in the camp; debate as to route;
+        threatened mutiny; Munieka; Mabunguru Nullah;
+        Unyambogi; Kiti, Msalalo; Ngaraiso, Kirurumo,
+        greeting from the villagers; interview with Sultan
+        bin Mahommed; halt at Kusuri, and Mgongo Tembo;
+        Nghwhalah Mtoni, abundance of sweet, water;
+        Madedita, tsete-fly troublesome; reach Unyamwezi
+        territory at Eastern Tura, cultivated region;
+        Nondo, Speke's runaway; Central Tura, attempted night
+        robbery, a thief shot dead; pass  Western Tura; Kwala
+        Mtoni, mud-fish; illness of the tailor, Abdul Kader,
+        he wishes to give up his post; Rubuga, desolation of,
+        since Burton's visit; meeting with Amer bin Sultan,
+        Kigwa, wasted condition of; Shiza, pastoral aspect of,
+        visit from the Sultan; rejoicings in camp on reaching
+        Unyanyembe territory; life in Unyanyembe; breakfast and
+        gossip with Sayd bin Salim; Kazeh, a myth; leave Kwikuru;
+        in comfortable quarters; visit from the Tabora Arab magnates;
+        Tabora, chief Arab settlement in central Africa; attend a
+        council of war, feast at the close of the council; return
+        to Kwihara; the Livingstone caravan's halt of 100 days;
+        attack of fever; preparations for the march; warlike
+        demonstration; Eastern Mfuto, illness of Shaw,
+        personnel of the army; Umanda, medicine daubing;
+        war harangue; Zimbizo, attack on the village; fate
+        of Soud bin Sayd and his Arabs; retreat and stormy
+        councils of war; further retreat of the Arabs to Tabora,
+        serious position of the Expedition; intelligence
+        of Livingstone; news of death of Farquhar; illness
+        of Shaw, attack of Mirambo on Tabora; Khamis bin
+        Abdullah, &c., slain; preparations for Mirambo's threatened
+        attack on Kwihara; visit to Sheikh bin Nassib; retreat
+        of Mirambo, determination to lead a flying caravan
+        to Ujiji; apathy of Shaw, visit to Thani bin Abdullah,
+        arrival of letters; death of Baruti, evil reports by
+        the Arabs; present of a boy-slave; defeat of Mirambo at
+        Mfuto; nursing experiences: farewell feast at Unyanyembe;
+        march to Ujiji commenced by southern route; list of "braves"
+        of the Expedition; Bombay's tender passion; the start;
+        Shaw shows the white feather; Kinyamwezi village, attack
+        of fever; arrest of runaways, threat of slave-chain;
+        Inesuka, further desertions, punishment, withdrawal of
+        Abdul Kader, the tailor; sickness in camp, adverse
+        appearances; Kasegara, rejoicings at; Kigandu, Shaw's
+        by-play; his withdrawal; beauty of Unyamwezi forest
+        scenery; Ugunda; Benta; Kikuru, the mukunguru or fever;
+        camp at Ziwani; gigantic sycamore; Manyara, cultivated
+        region; difficulty of buying provisions; visit of Mtemi;
+        his astonishment at the author's medicine-chest; Gombe
+        River, its beautiful neighbourhood; narrow escape from a
+        crocodile, suspicious-looking natives; a peaceful camp-scene;
+        symptoms of revolt at starting onwards; murderous aspect of
+        Asmani and Mabruki; the march- resumed; sketch of the principal
+        men of the Expedition; Ziwani (pool), waterless condition of;
+        Tongoni, abundance of honey-birds; Marefu, rumours of war in
+        our front; march through a forest abounding with peach-trees;
+        Utende village; Mwaru, supposed report of Livingstone, Mrera's
+        district, wild elephants; Selim falls ill, start from Mrera
+        north-westward; confidence restored in the camp, remarkable
+        ant-hills; camp in the jungle; embassy from Simba; Uzavira,
+        ruined neighbourhood of; Misonghi; Mpokwa River, deserted
+        village near; Mtambu stream, its beauty; attack by a leopard;
+        shot at a wild boar; proximity of lions; Itaga village,
+        beginning of troubles, shortness of provisions, "Welled
+        Nzogera's" village, abundant supplies; crossing a marsh;
+        reach the Malagarazi; heavy exaction of the chief Kiala;
+        island of Ihata, fresh demands for ferriage; donkey seized
+        by crocodile; Uvinza, news of Livingstone, departure from
+        the Malagarazi; country of Uhha; halt at Kawanga; halt on
+        the Pombwe stream, interview with Mionvu; exorbitant demand
+        of honga; cross the Kanengi River; more claims of honga;
+        departure by stealth; Kanengi River; cross the Rusugi;
+        Lake Musunya, Rugufu River, Kabogo Mountain, singular
+        phenomenon of; Sunuzzi River; enter Ukaranga; beauty
+        of the landscape; Mkute River, Niamtaga, alarm of the
+        people; first view of the Tanganika,  Port of Ujiji in
+        view; salute announcing the approach of the caravan; meeting
+        with Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone; excitement of
+        the inhabitants; appearance of the Doctor; the introduction;
+        conversation; the over-due letter-bag, 365 days from Zanzibar;
+        budget of news; intercourse with Livingstone; suggestions
+        as to his future course; start with Livingstone for cruise
+        on the Tanganika; pass Bangwe Island; wooded hills of Bemba;
+        camp at Niasanga; Nyabigma Island; Mukungu; loss of valuables
+        from Bombay's intoxication; hostile demonstrations of the Bikari
+        people; bivouac on the shore disturbed by natives; round
+        Cape Sentakeyi, and sleep at Mugeyo; Magala, hospitality of
+        the people, visit of the Mutware of; rumours of wars;
+        Kisiku, native report as to the Rusizi River; Mugere, delta
+        of the; visit Mukamba, attacked by fever and experience
+        Livingstone's tenderness; Susi's drunken fit; Mugihewa
+        territory on the delta of the Rusizi; visit of the chief
+        Ruhinga, his geographical information; exploration
+        of the Rusizi debouchure: Kukubma Point, enchanting scenery
+        near; halt at Bemba, superstition of the Wajiji; 'New York
+        Herald Islets,' so named by Livingstone; Cape Luvumba
+        hostile aspect of the Wasansi, return to Ujiji, domestic
+        and foreign news; at home with Livingstone; preparations
+        for march to Unyanyembe; attack of fever; Christmas-day
+        at Ujiji; the departure; meet with Mohammed bin Gharib;
+        Sirgunga, beautiful aspect of; sport at Urimba; homeward bound;
+        an elephant herd; Ukawendi, luxuriance of its vegetation;
+        painful march to Imrera; a giraffe shot; severe attack of
+        fever, the Doctor's prescription; the caravan attacked by
+        bees; Mrera, meeting with caravan sent by Sayd bin Habid,
+        exchange of news, encounter a lion; Ugunda, the deserter
+        Hamdallah retaken; receipt of letters and newspapers;
+        welcome to Unyanyembe; stores found tampered with;
+        a second Christmas celebration, four years' stores of
+       supplies turned over to the Doctor, commission to enlist
+       at Zanzibar fifty freemen as his carriers; farewell dance
+       of natives; choragic adieu of the Wanyamwezi; last night
+       with Livingstone; the last walk in his company, the farewell;
+       a letter from the Doctor; Ngaraiso, hostility of the Wakimbu,
+       enter Ugogo; warlike demonstrations, march of warriors
+       arrayed for the fight;  Khonze, its gigantic tree-foliage;
+       determined mode of dealing with the chief successfull;
+       Kanyenyi, cordial reception by the Msagira of; Mapanga,
+       hostile demonstration; asked to act as rain-maker; Kulabi,
+       suffer from a "peppo"; Marenga Mkali; Mpwapwa, death of
+       Farquhar; Mukondokwa valley, experience of the Masika;
+       Makata plain, battling with the floods; Mvumi village,
+       fighting with mosquitoes; the Doctor's despatches in danger;
+       a perilous ford; ten days' camp at Rehenneko, difficulties
+       of the march to the Makata River; arrive at Simbo, cross the
+       Unkerengere, and reach Simbamwenni, its desolated aspect;
+       Ulagalla, extraordinary devastation by flood; Msuwa, horrors
+       of its jungle; Kingaru Hera, news of the Zanzibar storm;
+       Rosako, welcome consignment from the American Consul;
+       ill-natured criticisms, information as to the "Livingstone
+       Search and Relief Expedition"; Ringweare's ferry, a watery waste,
+       four miles broad; welcome to Bagamoyo; meeting with Lieut. Henn;
+       introduction to Mr. Oswell Livingstone; the march ended;
+       welcome at Zanzibar, the American Consul and Rev. C. New;
+       congratulation of Lieut. Dawson; discussion as to his resignation;
+       visit from Dr. Kirk and Bishop Tozer, change in the  author's
+       appearance on his return; preparations for Mr. O. Livingstone's
+       Expedition, his resignation, selection of an Arab leader,
+       farewell to old travelling companions; departure from
+       Zanzibar in the 'Africa'; reach Seychelles, a month's delay
+       at Mahe, agreeable intercourse; reach England via Aden and
+       Marseilles.
+  Sultan bin Mohammed,
+  Sultan of Zanzibar, Mr. Stanley's interview with,
+  Sunuzzi stream,
+  Susi, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+  Swaruru, Sultan,
+  Sycamore, gigantic,
+
+  Tabora,
+  Tagamoyo, massacre of the Wamanyuema by,
+  Tanganika Lake, first visit to; cruise on, with Dr. Livingstone,
+  Tarya Topan, integrity of
+  Thani bin Abdullah,,
+  Tongoni, deserted clearing,
+  Tozer, Bp., his residence at Zanzibar; his congratulations at
+             the author's success,
+  Trade, mode of conducting, in Africa,
+  Tsetse fly,
+  Tura, Eastern; Central,;
+            Western or Tura Perro;
+
+  Udoe, cones of,
+  "Uganga," or charm,
+  Ugombo, Lake; Peak, Plain,
+  Ugunda village,
+  Uhha, king of,
+  Ujiji, port of,
+  Ukaranga territory, its beautiful aspect,
+  Ukawendi country, scenery of,
+  Ulagalla district,
+  Ulimengo, absconding slave,
+  Unamapokera, friendliness of,
+  Ungerengeri River; Valley,
+  Urundi Mountains,
+  Unyamwezi forest scenery, beauty of; territory,
+  Unyambogi,
+  Urimba, camp at,
+  Usagara Mountains,
+  Utende village,
+  Uwelasia River,
+  Uyanzi, Magunda Mkali; or "Hot Field,"
+  Uyoweh, Mirambo of,
+  Uzavira, village in,
+
+  Waganga, or medicine men; filthy war-potion, concocted by,
+  Wagogo tribe, villages of,
+  Wagtails regarded as birds of good omen,
+  Waguhha tribe,
+  Wagunda tribe,
+  Wahumba tribe,
+  Wajiji tribe,
+  Wakimbu of Tura, rascality of,
+  ------- tribe; villages of,
+  Wakonongo,
+  Wamanyuema, fondness of, for marketing,
+  Wangwana village,
+  ------- tribe, gormandizing of the,
+  Wanyamwezi tribe, their superstitious aversion to antelope meat,
+  War, council of, at Tabora,
+  Warfare, tame mode of conducting,
+  Wa-Ruga-Ruga,
+  Wasawahili tribe,
+  Wasansi tribe,
+  Waseguhha tribe,
+  Washenshi tribe,
+  Wasungu tribe,
+  Wavinza tribe, greed of
+  Wavira tribe,
+  Webb, Capt. F. R., U.S. Consul, his hospitality and courtesy,
+  ----, Mr. of Newstead Abbey, river named after him,
+  ----, Mrs.,
+  Wagogo, cool impudence of the,
+  Wilderness, African, more favourable to the traveller than
+        the populated country,
+  Wild-boar shooting,
+  Wilyankuru, attack on,
+  Wire, high valve of, in the interior,
+
+  Zanzibar city view of, from the bay, harbor
+           "Charley's" lodging house,; character of the street
+           and population, trade, "M'nazi Moya"; house of Bishop
+           Tozer, mart of the interior, mode of commerce unchanged
+           for ages; population; filth and unhealthiness of;
+           inertness induced by climate of; Palace of the Sultan,
+  ----- Island; its aspect from the sea,
+  Zassi River and village,
+  Zebra,
+  Zimbizo, attack on the village,
+  Zimmerman on the benefit of an unencumbered mind,
+  Ziwo, or pond,
+  Ziwani (pool),
+  Zogga, palm toddy,
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's How I Found Livingstone, by Henry M. Stanley
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of How I Found Livingstone, by Sir Henry M. Stanley
+
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+Title: How I Found Livingstone
+
+Author: Sir Henry M. Stanley
+
+Release Date: February, 2004  [EBook #5157]
+[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule]
+[This file was first posted on May 18, 2002]
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+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE ***
+
+
+
+
+This eBook was produced by Geoffrey Cowling.
+
+
+
+HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
+Travels, Adventures and Discoveries in Central Africa
+including four months residence with Dr. Livingstone
+
+by
+
+Sir Henry M. Stanley, G.C.B.
+
+Abridged
+
+
+
+CHAPTER. I.
+
+INTRODUCTORY.  MY INSTRUCTIONS TO FIND AND RELIEVE LIVINGSTONE.
+
+
+On the sixteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord one
+thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, I was in Madrid, fresh from
+the carnage at Valencia.  At 10 A.M. Jacopo, at No.-- Calle de la
+Cruz, handed me a telegram: It read, "Come to Paris on important
+business." The telegram was from Mr. James Gordon Bennett, jun.,
+the young manager of the `New York Herald.'
+
+Down came my pictures from the walls of my apartments on the
+second floor; into my trunks went my books and souvenirs, my
+clothes were hastily collected, some half washed, some from the
+clothes-line half dry, and after a couple of hours of hasty hard
+work my portmanteaus were strapped up and labelled "Paris."
+
+At 3 P.M. I was on my way, and being obliged to stop at Bayonne a
+few hours, did not arrive at Paris until the following night.  I
+went straight to the `Grand Hotel,' and knocked at the door of
+Mr. Bennett's room.
+
+"Come in," I heard a voice say.  Entering, I found Mr. Bennett in
+bed.  "Who are you?" he asked.
+
+"My name is Stanley," I answered.
+
+"Ah, yes! sit down; I have important business on hand for you."
+
+After throwing over his shoulders his robe-de-chambre Mr. Bennett
+asked, "Where do you think Livingstone is?"
+
+"I really do not know, sir."
+
+"Do you think he is alive?"
+
+"He may be, and he may not be," I answered.
+
+"Well, I think he is alive, and that he can be found, and I am
+going to send you to find him."
+
+"What!" said I, "do you really think I can find Dr Livingstone?
+Do you mean me to go to Central Africa?"
+
+"Yes; I mean that you shall go, and find him wherever you may
+hear that he is, and to get what news you can of him, and perhaps"
+--delivering himself thoughtfully and deliberately--"the old man
+may be in want:--take enough with you to help him should he require
+it.  Of course you will act according to your own plans, and do
+what you think best--BUT FIND LIVINGSTONE!"
+
+Said I, wondering at the cool order of sending one to Central
+Africa to search for a man whom I, in common with almost all other
+men, believed to be dead, "Have you considered seriously the
+great expense you are likely, to incur on account of this little
+journey?"
+
+"What will it cost?" he asked abruptly.
+
+"Burton and Speke's journey to Central Africa cost between £3,000
+and £5,000, and I fear it cannot be done under £2,500."
+
+"Well, I will tell you what you will do.  Draw a thousand pounds
+now; and when you have gone through that, draw another thousand,
+and when that is spent, draw another thousand, and when you have
+finished that, draw another thousand, and so on; but, FIND
+LIVINGSTONE."
+
+Surprised but not confused at the order--for I knew that Mr.
+Bennett when once he had made up his mind was not easily drawn
+aside from his purpose--I yet thought, seeing it was such a
+gigantic scheme, that he had not quite considered in his own mind
+the pros and cons of the case; I said, "I have heard that should
+your father die you would sell the `Herald' and retire from
+business."
+
+"Whoever told you that is wrong, for there is not, money enough in
+New York city to buy the `New York Herald.'  My father has made
+it a great paper, but I mean to make it greater.  I mean that it
+shall be a newspaper in the true sense of the word.  I mean that
+it shall publish whatever news will be interesting to the world at
+no matter what cost."
+
+"After that," said I, "I have nothing more to say.  Do you mean
+me to go straight on to Africa to search for Dr. Livingstone?"
+
+"No!  I wish you to go to the inauguration of the Suez Canal
+first, and then proceed up the Nile.  I hear Baker is about
+starting for Upper Egypt.  Find out what you can about his
+expedition, and as you go up describe as well as possible
+whatever is interesting for tourists; and then write up a guide--
+a practical one--for Lower Egypt; tell us about whatever is worth
+seeing and how to see it.
+
+"Then you might as well go to Jerusalem; I hear Captain Warren is
+making some interesting discoveries there.  Then visit
+Constantinople, and find out about that trouble between the Khedive
+and the Sultan.
+
+"Then--let me see--you might as well visit the Crimea and those
+old battle-grounds, Then go across the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea;
+I hear there is a Russian expedition bound for Khiva.  From thence
+you may get through Persia to India; you could write an interesting
+letter from Persepolis.
+
+"Bagdad will be close on your way to India; suppose you go
+there, and write up something about the Euphrates Valley Railway.
+Then, when you have come to India, you can go after Livingstone.
+Probably you will hear by that time that Livingstone is on his
+way to Zanzibar; but if not, go into the interior and find him.
+If alive, get what news of his discoveries you can; and if you
+find he is dead, bring all possible proofs of his being dead.
+That is all.  Good-night, and God be with you."
+
+"Good-night, Sir," I said, "what it is in the power of human
+nature to do I will do; and on such an errand as I go upon, God
+will be with me."
+
+I lodged with young Edward King, who is making such a name in New
+England.  He was just the man who would have delighted to tell the
+journal he was engaged upon what young Mr. Bennett was doing, and
+what errand I was bound upon.
+
+I should have liked to exchange opinions with him upon the probable
+results of my journey, but I dared not do so.  Though oppressed
+with the great task before me, I had to appear as if only going to
+be present at the Suez Canal.  Young King followed me to the
+express train bound for Marseilles, and at the station we parted:
+he to go and read the newspapers at Bowles' Reading-room--I to
+Central Africa and--who knows?
+
+There is no need to recapitulate what I did before going to Central
+Africa.
+
+I went up the Nile and saw Mr. Higginbotham, chief engineer in
+Baker's Expedition, at Philae, and was the means of preventing
+a duel between him and a mad young Frenchman, who wanted to fight
+Mr. Higginbotham with pistols, because that gentleman resented
+the idea of being taken for an Egyptian, through wearing a fez cap.
+I had a talk with Capt. Warren at Jerusalem, and descended one
+of the pits with a sergeant of engineers to see the marks of
+the Tyrian workmen on the foundation-stones of the Temple of Solomon.
+I visited the mosques of Stamboul with the Minister Resident of
+the United States, and the American Consul-General.  I travelled
+over the Crimean battle-grounds with Kinglake's glorious books
+for reference in my hand.  I dined with the widow of General
+Liprandi at Odessa.  I saw the Arabian traveller Palgrave at
+Trebizond, and Baron Nicolay, the Civil Governor of the Caucasus,
+at Tiflis.  I lived with the Russian Ambassador while at Teheran,
+and wherever I went through Persia I received the most hospitable
+welcome from the gentlemen of the Indo-European Telegraph Company;
+and following the examples of many illustrious men, I wrote my
+name upon one of the Persepolitan monuments.  In the month of
+August, 1870, I arrived in India.
+
+On the 12th of October I sailed on the barque 'Polly'  from
+Bombay to Mauritius.  As the 'Polly' was a slow sailer, the
+passage lasted thirty-seven days.  On board this barque was
+a William Lawrence Farquhar--hailing from Leith, Scotland--
+in the capacity of first-mate.  He was an excellent navigator,
+and thinking he might be useful to me, I employed him; his pay
+to begin from the date we should leave Zanzibar for Bagamoyo.
+As there was no opportunity of getting, to Zanzibar direct,
+I took ship to Seychelles.  Three or four days after arriving
+at Mahe, one of the Seychelles group, I was fortunate enough
+to get a passage for myself, William Lawrence Farquhar, and
+an Arab boy from Jerusalem, who was to act as interpreter--
+on board an American whaling vessel, bound for Zanzibar;
+at which port we arrived on the 6th of January, 1871.
+
+I have skimmed over my travels thus far, because these do not
+concern the reader.  They led over many lands, but this book is
+only a narrative of my search after Livingstone, the great
+African traveller.  It is an Icarian flight of journalism, I
+confess; some even have called it Quixotic; but this is a word I
+can now refute, as will be seen before the reader arrives at the
+"Finis."
+
+I have used the word "soldiers" in this book.  The armed escort a
+traveller engages to accompany him into East Africa is composed of
+free black men, natives of Zanzibar, or freed slaves from the
+interior, who call themselves "askari," an Indian name which,
+translated, means "soldiers." They are armed and equipped like
+soldiers, though they engage themselves also as servants; but it
+would be more pretentious in me to call them servants, than to use
+the word "soldiers;" and as I have been more in the habit of
+calling them soldiers than "my watuma"--servants--this habit has
+proved too much to be overcome.  I have therefore allowed the word
+"soldiers " to appear, accompanied, however, with this apology.
+
+But it must be remembered that I am writing a narrative of my own
+adventures and travels, and that until I meet Livingstone, I
+presume the greatest interest is attached to myself, my marches,
+my troubles, my thoughts, and my impressions.  Yet though I may
+sometimes write, "my expedition," or "my caravan," it by no
+means follows that I arrogate to myself this right.  For it must
+be distinctly understood that it is the "`New York Herald'
+Expedition," and that I am only charged with its command by
+Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the `New York Herald,'
+as a salaried employ of that gentleman.
+
+One thing more; I have adopted the narrative form of relating
+the story of the search, on account of the greater interest it
+appears to possess over the diary form, and I think that in this
+manner I avoid the great fault of repetition for which some
+travellers have been severely criticised.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.  ZANZIBAR.
+
+On the morning of the 6th January, 1871, we were sailing through
+the channel that separates the fruitful island of Zanzibar from
+Africa.  The high lands of the continent loomed like a lengthening
+shadow in the grey of dawn.  The island lay on our left, distant
+but a mile, coming out of its shroud of foggy folds bit by bit as
+the day advanced, until it finally rose clearly into view, as
+fair in appearance as the fairest of the gems of creation.  It
+appeared low, but not flat; there were gentle elevations cropping
+hither and yon above the languid but graceful tops of the
+cocoa-trees that lined the margin of the island, and there were
+depressions visible at agreeable intervals, to indicate where a
+cool gloom might be found by those who sought relief from a hot
+sun.  With the exception of the thin line of sand, over which the
+sap-green water rolled itself with a constant murmur and moan, the
+island seemed buried under one deep stratum of verdure.
+
+The noble bosom of the strait bore several dhows speeding in and
+out of the bay of Zanzibar with bellying sails.  Towards the
+south, above the sea line of the horizon, there appeared the naked
+masts of several large ships, and to the east of these a dense mass
+of white, flat-topped houses.  This was Zanzibar, the capital of the
+island;--which soon resolved itself into a pretty large and compact
+city, with all the characteristics of Arab architecture.  Above
+some of the largest houses lining the bay front of the city
+streamed the blood-red banner of the Sultan, Seyd Burghash, and the
+flags of the American, English, North German Confederation, and
+French Consulates.  In the harbor were thirteen large ships, four
+Zanzibar men-of-war, one English man-of-war--the `Nymphe,' two
+American, one French, one Portuguese, two English, and two German
+merchantmen, besides numerous dhows hailing from Johanna and
+Mayotte of the Comoro Islands, dhows from Muscat and Cutch--traders
+between India, the Persian Gulf, and Zanzibar.
+
+It was with the spirit of true hospitality and courtesy that
+Capt. Francis R. Webb, United States Consul, (formerly of the
+United States Navy), received me.  Had this gentleman not rendered
+me such needful service, I must have condescended to take board and
+lodging at a house known as "Charley's," called after the
+proprietor, a Frenchman, who has won considerable local notoriety
+for harboring penniless itinerants, and manifesting a kindly
+spirit always, though hidden under such a rugged front; or I
+should have been obliged to pitch my double-clothed American drill
+tent on the sandbeach of this tropical island, which was by no
+means a desirable thing.
+
+But Capt. Webb's opportune proposal to make his commodious and
+comfortable house my own; to enjoy myself, with the request that
+I would call for whatever I might require, obviated all unpleasant
+alternatives.
+
+One day's life at Zanzibar made me thoroughly conscious of my
+ignorance respecting African people and things in general.  I
+imagined I had read Burton and Speke through, fairly well, and
+that consequently I had penetrated the meaning, the full
+importance and grandeur, of the work I was about to be engaged upon.
+But my estimates, for instance, based upon book information,
+were simply ridiculous, fanciful images of African attractions
+were soon dissipated, anticipated pleasures vanished, and all
+crude ideas began to resolve themselves into shape.
+
+I strolled through the city.  My general impressions are of
+crooked, narrow lanes, white-washed houses, mortar-plastered
+streets, in the clean quarter;--of seeing alcoves on each side,
+with deep recesses, with a fore-ground of red-turbaned Banyans,
+and a back-ground of flimsy cottons, prints, calicoes, domestics
+and what not; or of floors crowded with ivory tusks; or of dark
+corners with a pile of unginned and loose cotton; or of stores of
+crockery, nails, cheap Brummagem ware, tools, &c., in what I call
+the Banyan quarter;--of streets smelling very strong--in fact,
+exceedingly, malodorous, with steaming yellow and black bodies, and
+woolly heads, sitting at the doors of miserable huts, chatting,
+laughing, bargaining, scolding, with a compound smell of hides,
+tar, filth, and vegetable refuse, in the negro quarter;--of streets
+lined with tall, solid-looking houses, flat roofed, of great carved
+doors with large brass knockers, with baabs sitting cross-legged
+watching the dark entrance to their masters' houses; of a shallow
+sea-inlet, with some dhows, canoes, boats, an odd steam-tub or two,
+leaning over on their sides in a sea of mud which the tide has just
+left behind it; of a place called "M'nazi-Moya," "One Cocoa-tree,"
+whither Europeans wend on evenings with most languid steps, to
+inhale the sweet air that glides over the sea, while the day is
+dying and the red sun is sinking westward; of a few graves of
+dead sailors, who paid the forfeit of their lives upon arrival
+in this land; of a tall house wherein lives Dr. Tozer, "Missionary
+Bishop of Central Africa," and his school of little Africans; and
+of many other things, which got together into such a tangle, that
+I had to go to sleep, lest I should never be able to separate
+the moving images, the Arab from the African; the African from
+the Banyan; the Banyan from the Hindi; the Hindi from the European,
+&c.
+
+Zanzibar is the Bagdad, the Ispahan, the Stamboul, if you like, of
+East Africa.  It is the great mart which invites the ivory traders
+from the African interior.  To this market come the gum-copal, the
+hides, the orchilla weed, the timber, and the black slaves from
+Africa.  Bagdad had great silk bazaars, Zanzibar has her ivory
+bazaars; Bagdad once traded in jewels, Zanzibar trades in
+gum-copal; Stamboul imported Circassian and Georgian slaves;
+Zanzibar imports black beauties from Uhiyow, Ugindo, Ugogo,
+Unyamwezi and Galla.
+
+The same mode of commerce obtains here as in all Mohammedan
+countries--nay, the mode was in vogue long before Moses was born.
+The Arab never changes.  He brought the custom of his forefathers
+with him when he came to live on this island.  He is as much of an
+Arab here as at Muscat or Bagdad; wherever he goes to live he
+carries with him his harem, his religion, his long robe, his shirt,
+his slippers, and his dagger.  If he penetrates Africa, not all the
+ridicule of the negroes can make him change his modes of life.  Yet
+the land has not become Oriental; the Arab has not been able to
+change the atmosphere.  The land is semi-African in aspect; the
+city is but semi-Arabian.
+
+To a new-comer into Africa, the Muscat Arabs of Zanzibar are
+studies.  There is a certain empressement about them which we must
+admire.  They are mostly all travellers.  There are but few of
+them who have not been in many dangerous positions, as they
+penetrated Central Africa in search of the precious ivory; and
+their various experiences have given their features a certain
+unmistakable air of-self-reliance, or of self-sufficiency; there
+is a calm, resolute, defiant, independent air about them, which
+wins unconsciously one's respect.  The stories that some of these
+men could tell, I have often thought, would fill many a book of
+thrilling adventures.
+
+For the half-castes I have great contempt.  They are neither
+black nor white, neither good nor bad, neither to be admired nor
+hated.  They are all things, at all times; they are always
+fawning on the great Arabs, and always cruel to those unfortunates
+brought under their yoke.  If I saw a miserable, half-starved
+negro, I was always sure to be told he belonged to a half-caste.
+Cringing and hypocritical, cowardly and debased, treacherous and
+mean, I have always found him.  He seems to be for ever ready to
+fall down and worship a rich Arab, but is relentless to a poor
+black slave.  When he swears most, you may be sure he lies most,
+and yet this is the breed which is multiplied most at Zanzibar.
+
+The Banyan is a born trader, the beau-ideal of a sharp money-making
+man.  Money flows to his pockets as naturally as water down a
+steep.  No pang of conscience will prevent him from cheating his
+fellow man.  He excels a Jew, and his only rival in a market is a
+Parsee; an Arab is a babe to him.  It is worth money to see him
+labor with all his energy, soul and body, to get advantage by the
+smallest fraction of a coin over a native.  Possibly the native
+has a tusk, and it may weigh a couple of frasilahs, but, though
+the scales indicate the weight, and the native declares solemnly
+that it must be more than two frasilahs, yet our Banyan will
+asseverate and vow that the native knows nothing whatever about it,
+and that the scales are wrong; he musters up courage to lift it--it
+is a mere song, not much more than a frasilah.  "Come," he will say,
+"close, man, take the money and go thy way.  Art thou mad?" If the
+native hesitates, he will scream in a fury; he pushes him about,
+spurns the ivory with contemptuous indifference,--never was such
+ado about nothing; but though he tells the astounded native to be
+up and going, he never intends the ivory shall leave his shop.
+
+The Banyans exercise, of all other classes, most influence on the
+trade of Central Africa.  With the exception of a very few rich
+Arabs, almost all other traders are subject to the pains and
+penalties which usury imposes.  A trader desirous to make a
+journey into the interior, whether for slaves or ivory, gum-copal,
+or orchilla weed, proposes to a Banyan to advance him $5,000, at
+50, 60, or 70 per cent. interest.  The Banyan is safe enough not
+to lose, whether the speculation the trader is engaged upon pays
+or not.  An experienced trader seldom loses, or if he has been
+unfortunate, through no deed of his own, he does not lose credit;
+with the help of the Banyan, he is easily set on his feet again.
+
+We will suppose, for the sake of illustrating how trade with the
+interior is managed, that the Arab conveys by his caravan $5,000's
+worth of goods into the interior.  At Unyanyembe the goods are
+worth $10,000; at Ujiji, they are worth $15,000: they have
+trebled in price.  Five doti, or $7.50, will purchase a slave in
+the markets of Ujiji that will fetch in Zanzibar $30.  Ordinary
+menslaves may be purchased for $6 which would sell for $25 on the
+coast.  We will say he purchases slaves to the full extent of his
+means--after deducting $1,500 expenses of carriage to Ujiji and
+back--viz. $3,500, the slaves--464 in number, at $7-50 per head--
+would realize $13,920 at Zanzibar!  Again, let us illustrate
+trade in ivory.  A merchant takes $5,000 to Ujiji, and after
+deducting $1,500 for expenses to Ujiji, and back to Zanzibar, has
+still remaining $3,500 in cloth and beads, with which he purchases
+ivory.  At Ujiji ivory is bought at $20 the frasilah, or 35 lbs.,
+by which he is enabled with $3,500 to collect 175 frasilahs, which,
+if good ivory, is worth about $60 per frasilah at Zanzibar.
+The merchant thus finds that he has realized $10,500 net profit!
+Arab traders have often done better than this, but they almost
+always have come back with an enormous margin of profit.
+
+The next people to the Banyans_in power in Zanzibar are the
+Mohammedan Hindis.  Really it has been a debateable subject in my
+mind whether the Hindis are not as wickedly determined to cheat in
+trade as the Banyans.  But, if I have conceded the palm to the
+latter, it has been done very reluctantly.  This tribe of Indians
+can produce scores of unconscionable rascals where they can show
+but one honest merchant.  One of the honestest among men, white or
+black, red or yellow, is a Mohammedan Hindi called Tarya Topan.
+Among the Europeans at Zanzibar, he has become a proverb for
+honesty, and strict business integrity.  He is enormously wealthy,
+owns several ships and dhows, and is a prominent man in the
+councils of Seyd Burghash.  Tarya has many children, two or three
+of whom are grown-up sons, whom he has reared up even as he is
+himself.  But Tarya is but a representative of an exceedingly
+small minority.
+
+The Arabs, the Banyans, and the Mohammedan Hindis, represent the
+higher and the middle classes.  These classes own the estates,
+the ships, and the trade.  To these classes bow the half-caste
+and the negro.
+
+The next most important people who go to make up the mixed
+population of this island are the negroes.  They consist of the
+aborigines, Wasawahili, Somalis, Comorines, Wanyamwezi, and a host
+of tribal representatives of Inner Africa.
+
+To a white stranger about penetrating Africa, it is a most
+interesting walk through the negro quarters of the Wanyamwezi and
+the Wasawahili.  For here he begins to learn the necessity of
+admitting that negroes are men, like himself, though of a different
+colour; that they have passions and prejudices, likes and
+dislikes, sympathies and antipathies, tastes and feelings, in
+common with all human nature.  The sooner he perceives this fact,
+and adapts himself accordingly, the easier will be his journey
+among the several races of the interior.  The more plastic his
+nature, the more prosperous will be his travels.
+
+Though I had lived some time among the negroes of our Southern
+States, my education was Northern, and I had met in the United
+States black men whom I was proud to call friends.  I was thus
+prepared to admit any black man, possessing the attributes of true
+manhood or any good qualities, to my friendship, even to a
+brotherhood with myself; and to respect him for such, as much as
+if he were of my own colour and race.  Neither his colour, nor any
+peculiarities of physiognomy should debar him with me from any
+rights he could fairly claim as a man.  "Have these men--these
+black savages from pagan Africa," I asked myself, "the qualities
+which make man loveable among his fellows?  Can these men--these
+barbarians--appreciate kindness or feel resentment like myself?"
+was my mental question as I travelled through their quarters
+and observed their actions.  Need I say, that I was much comforted
+in observing that they were as ready to be influenced by passions,
+by loves and hates, as I was myself; that the keenest observation
+failed to detect any great difference between their nature and my
+own?
+
+The negroes of the island probably number two-thirds of the entire
+population.  They compose the working-class, whether enslaved or
+free.  Those enslaved perform the work required on the plantations,
+the estates, and gardens of the landed proprietors, or perform the
+work of carriers, whether in the country or in the city.  Outside
+the city they may be seen carrying huge loads on their heads, as
+happy as possible, not because they are kindly treated or that
+their work is light, but because it is their nature to be gay and
+light-hearted, because they, have conceived neither joys nor hopes
+which may not be gratified at will, nor cherished any ambition
+beyond their reach, and therefore have not been baffled in their
+hopes nor known disappointment.
+
+Within the city, negro carriers may be heard at all hours, in
+couples, engaged in the transportation of clove-bags, boxes of
+merchandise, &c., from store to "godown" and from "go-down" to
+the beach, singing a kind of monotone chant for the encouragement
+of each other, and for the guiding of their pace as they shuffle
+through the streets with bare feet.  You may recognise these men
+readily, before long, as old acquaintances, by the consistency
+with which they sing the tunes they have adopted.  Several times
+during a day have I heard the same couple pass beneath the windows
+of the Consulate, delivering themselves of the same invariable tune
+and words.  Some might possibly deem the songs foolish and silly,
+but they had a certain attraction for me, and I considered that
+they were as useful as anything else for the purposes they were
+intended.
+
+The town of Zanzibar, situate on the south-western shore of the
+island, contains a population of nearly one hundred thousand
+inhabitants; that of the island altogether I would estimate at not
+more than two hundred thousand inhabitants, including all races.
+
+The greatest number of foreign vessels trading with this port are
+American, principally from New York and Salem.  After the American
+come the German, then come the French and English.  They arrive
+loaded with American sheeting, brandy, gunpowder, muskets, beads,
+English cottons, brass-wire, china-ware, and other notions, and
+depart with ivory, gum-copal, cloves, hides, cowries, sesamum,
+pepper, and cocoa-nut oil.
+
+The value of the exports from this port is estimated at $3,000,000,
+and the imports from all countries at $3,500,000.
+
+The Europeans and Americans residing in the town of Zanzibar are
+either Government officials, independent merchants, or agents for a
+few great mercantile houses in Europe and America.
+
+The climate of Zanzibar is not the most agreeable in the world.  I
+have heard Americans and Europeans condemn it most heartily.  I
+have also seen nearly one-half of the white colony laid up in one
+day from sickness.  A noxious malaria is exhaled from the shallow
+inlet of Malagash, and the undrained filth, the garbage, offal,
+dead mollusks, dead pariah dogs, dead cats, all species of carrion,
+remains of men and beasts unburied, assist to make Zanzibar a most
+unhealthy city; and considering that it it ought to be most healthy,
+nature having pointed out to man the means, and having assisted him
+so far, it is most wonderful that the ruling prince does not obey
+the dictates of reason.
+
+The bay of Zanzibar is in the form of a crescent, and on the
+south-western horn of it is built the city.  On the east Zanzibar
+is bounded almost entirely by the Malagash Lagoon, an inlet of
+the sea.  It penetrates to at least two hundred and fifty yards of
+the sea behind or south of Shangani Point.  Were these two hundred
+and fifty yards cut through by a ten foot ditch, and the inlet
+deepened slightly, Zanzibar would become an island of itself, and
+what wonders would it not effect as to health and salubrity!  I
+have never heard this suggestion made, but it struck me that the
+foreign consuls resident at Zanzibar might suggest this work to the
+Sultan, and so get the credit of having made it as healthy a place
+to live in as any near the equator.  But apropos of this, I
+remember what Capt. Webb, the American Consul, told me on my
+first arrival, when I expressed to him my wonder at the apathy
+and inertness of men born with the indomitable energy which
+characterises Europeans and Americans, of men imbued with the
+progressive and stirring instincts of the white people, who yet
+allow themselves to dwindle into pallid phantoms of their kind,
+into hypochondriacal invalids, into hopeless believers in the
+deadliness of the climate, with hardly a trace of that daring
+and invincible spirit which rules the world.
+
+"Oh," said Capt. Webb, "it is all very well for you to talk
+about energy and all that kind of thing, but I assure you that a
+residence of four or five years on this island, among such people
+as are here, would make you feel that it was a hopeless task to
+resist the influence of the example by which the most energetic
+spirits are subdued, and to which they must submit in time, sooner
+or later.  We were all terribly energetic when we first came here,
+and struggled bravely to make things go on as we were accustomed
+to have them at home, but we have found that we were knocking our
+heads against granite walls to no purpose whatever.  These fellows--
+the Arabs, the Banyans, and the Hindis--you can't make them go
+faster by ever so much scolding and praying, and in a very short
+time you see the folly of fighting against the unconquerable.
+Be patient, and don't fret, that is my advice, or you won't live
+long here."
+
+There were three or four intensely busy men, though, at Zanzibar,
+who were out at all hours of the day.  I know one, an American; I
+fancy I hear the quick pit-pat of his feet on the pavement beneath
+the Consulate, his cheery voice ringing the salutation, "Yambo!"
+to every one he met; and he had lived at Zanzibar twelve years.
+
+I know another, one of the sturdiest of Scotchmen, a most
+pleasant-mannered and unaffected man, sincere in whatever he did
+or said, who has lived at Zanzibar several years, subject to the
+infructuosities of the business he has been engaged in, as well as
+to the calor and ennui of the climate, who yet presents as formidable
+a front as ever to the apathetic native of Zanzibar.  No man can
+charge Capt. H. C.  Fraser, formerly of the Indian Navy, with being
+apathetic.
+
+I might with ease give evidence of the industry of others, but
+they are all my friends, and they are all good.  The American,
+English, German, and French residents have ever treated me with a
+courtesy and kindness I am not disposed to forget.  Taken as a
+body, it would be hard to find a more generous or hospitable colony
+of white men in any part of the world.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.  ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION.
+
+
+I was totally ignorant of the interior, and it was difficult at
+first to know, what I needed, in order to take an Expedition into
+Central Africa.  Time was precious, also, and much of it could not
+be devoted to inquiry and investigation.  In a case like this, it
+would have been a godsend, I thought, had either of the three
+gentlemen, Captains Burton, Speke, or Grant, given some information
+on these points; had they devoted a chapter upon, "How to get
+ready an Expedition for Central Africa."  The purpose of this
+chapter, then, is to relate how I set about it, that other
+travellers coming after me may have the benefit of my experience.
+
+These are some of the questions I asked myself, as I tossed on my
+bed at night:--
+
+"How much money is required?"
+
+"How many pagazis, or carriers?
+
+"How many soldiers?"
+
+"How much cloth?"
+
+"How many beads?"
+
+"How much wire?"
+
+"What kinds of cloth are required for the different tribes?"
+
+Ever so many questions to myself brought me no clearer the exact
+point I wished to arrive at.  I scribbled over scores of sheets
+of paper, made estimates, drew out lists of material, calculated
+the cost of keeping one hundred men for one year, at so many yards
+of different kinds of cloth, etc.  I studied Burton, Speke, and
+Grant in vain.  A good deal of geographical, ethnological, and other
+information appertaining to the study of Inner Africa was obtainable,
+but information respecting the organization of an expedition
+requisite before proceeding to Africa, was not in any book.
+The Europeans at Zanzibar knew as little as possible about this
+particular point.  There was not one white man at Zanzibar who
+could tell how many dotis a day a force of one hundred men
+required to buy food for one day on the road.  Neither, indeed,
+was it their business to know.  But what should I do at all, at
+all?  This was a grand question.
+
+I decided it were best to hunt up an Arab merchant who had been
+engaged in the ivory trade, or who was fresh from the interior.
+
+Sheikh Hashid was a man of note and of wealth in Zanzibar.  He had
+himself despatched several caravans into the interior, and was
+necessarily acquainted with several prominent traders who came to
+his house to gossip about their adventures and gains.  He was also
+the proprietor of the large house Capt. Webb occupied; besides,
+he lived across the narrow street which separated his house from
+the Consulate.  Of all men Sheikh Hashid was the man to be
+consulted, and he was accordingly invited to visit me at the
+Consulate.
+
+From the grey-bearded and venerable-looking Sheikh, I elicited
+more information about African currency, the mode of procedure,
+the quantity and quality of stuffs I required, than I had obtained
+from three months' study of books upon Central Africa; and from
+other Arab merchants to whom the ancient Sheikh introduced me,
+I received most valuable suggestions and hints, which enabled me
+at last to organize an Expedition.
+
+The reader must bear in mind that a traveller requires only that
+which is sufficient for travel and exploration that a superfluity
+of goods or means will prove as fatal to him as poverty of
+supplies.  It is on this question of quality and quantity that
+the traveller has first to exercise his judgment and discretion.
+
+My informants gave me to understand that for one hundred men,
+10 doti, or 40 yards of cloth per diem, would suffice for food.
+The proper course to pursue, I found, was to purchase 2,000 doti
+of American sheeting, 1,000 doti of Kaniki, and 650 doti of the
+coloured cloths, such as Barsati, a great favourite in Unyamwezi;
+Sohari, taken in Ugogo; Ismahili, Taujiri, Joho, Shash, Rehani,
+Jamdani or Kunguru-Cutch, blue and pink.  These were deemed amply
+sufficient for the subsistence of one hundred men for twelve
+months.  Two years at this rate would require 4,000 doti = 16,000
+yards of American sheeting; 2,000 doti = 8,000 yards of Kaniki;
+1,300 doti = 5,200 yards of mixed coloured cloths.  This was
+definite and valuable information to me, and excepting the lack
+of some suggestions as to the quality of the sheeting, Kaniki,
+and coloured cloths, I had obtained all I desired upon this point.
+
+Second in importance to the amount of cloth required was the
+quantity and quality of the beads necessary.  Beads, I was told,
+took the place of cloth currency among some tribes of the
+interior.  One tribe preferred white to black beads, brown to
+yellow, red to green, green to white, and so on.  Thus, in
+Unyamwezi, red (sami-sami) beads would readily be taken, where
+all other kinds would be refused; black (bubu) beads, though
+currency in Ugogo, were positively worthless with all other
+tribes; the egg (sungomazzi) beads, though valuable in Ujiji
+and Uguhha, would be refused in all other countries; the white
+(Merikani) beads though good in Ufipa, and some parts of Usagara
+and Ugogo, would certainly be despised in Useguhha and Ukonongo.
+Such being the case, I was obliged to study closely, and calculate
+the probable stay of an expedition in the several countries, so as
+to be sure to provide a sufficiency of each kind, and guard against
+any great overplus.  Burton and Speke, for instance, were obliged
+to throw away as worthless several hundred fundo of beads.
+
+For example, supposing the several nations of Europe had each its
+own currency, without the means of exchange, and supposing a man
+was about to travel through Europe on foot, before starting he
+would be apt to calculate how many days it would take him to
+travel through France; how many through Prussia, Austria, and
+Russia, then to reckon the expense he would be likely to incur
+per day.  If the expense be set down at a napoleon per day, and
+his journey through France would occupy thirty days, the sum
+required forgoing and returning might be properly set down at
+sixty napoleons, in which case, napoleons not being current money
+in Prussia, Austria, or Russia, it would be utterly useless for
+him to burden himself with the weight of a couple of thousand
+napoleons in gold.
+
+My anxiety on this point was most excruciating.  Over and over
+I studied the hard names and measures, conned again and again
+the polysyllables; hoping to be able to arrive some time at an
+intelligible definition of the terms.  I revolved in my mind
+the words Mukunguru, Ghulabio, Sungomazzi,
+Kadunduguru, Mutunda, Samisami, Bubu, Merikani, Hafde, Lunghio-Rega,
+and Lakhio, until I was fairly beside myself.  Finally, however,
+I came to the conclusion that if I reckoned my requirements at
+fifty khete, or five fundo per day, for two years, and if I
+purchased only eleven varieties, I might consider myself safe
+enough.  The purchase was accordingly made, and twenty-two
+sacks of the best species were packed and brought to Capt. Webb's
+house, ready for transportation to Bagamoyo.
+
+After the beads came the wire question.  I discovered, after
+considerable trouble, that Nos. 5 and 6--almost of the thickness
+of telegraph wire--were considered the best numbers for trading
+purposes.  While beads stand for copper coins in Africa, cloth
+measures for silver; wire is reckoned as gold in the countries
+beyond the Tan-ga-ni-ka.*  Ten frasilah, or 350 lbs., of brass-wire,
+my Arab adviser thought, would be ample.
+_________________
+* It will be seen that I differ from Capt. Burton in the spelling
+of this word, as I deem the letter " y  " superfluous.
+________________
+
+Having purchased the cloth, the beads, and the wire, it was with
+no little pride that I surveyed the comely bales and packages lying
+piled up, row above row, in Capt. Webb's capacious store-room.
+Yet my work was not ended, it was but beginning; there were
+provisions, cooking-utensils, boats, rope, twine, tents, donkeys,
+saddles, bagging, canvas, tar, needles, tools, ammunition, guns,
+equipments, hatchets, medicines, bedding, presents for chiefs--in
+short, a thousand things not yet purchased.  The ordeal of
+chaffering and -haggling with steel-hearted Banyans, Hindis, Arabs,
+and half-castes was most trying.  For instance, I purchased
+twenty-two donkeys at Zanzibar.  $40 and $50 were asked, which
+I had to reduce to $15 or $20 by an infinite amount of argument
+worthy, I think, of a nobler cause.  As was my experience with the
+ass-dealers so was it with the petty merchants; even a paper of pins
+was not purchased without a five per cent. reduction from the price
+demanded, involving, of course, a loss of much time and patience.
+
+After collecting the donkeys, I discovered there were no
+pack-saddles to be obtained in Zanzibar.  Donkeys without
+pack-saddles were of no use whatever.  I invented a saddle to
+be manufactured by myself and my white man Farquhar, wholly
+from canvas, rope, and cotton.
+
+Three or four frasilahs of cotton, and ten bolts of canvas were
+required for the saddles.  A specimen saddle was made by myself in
+order to test its efficiency.  A donkey was taken and saddled, and
+a load of 140 lbs. was fastened to it, and though the animal--a
+wild creature of Unyamwezi--struggled and reared frantic ally, not
+a particle gave way.  After this experiment, Farquhar was set to work
+to manufacture twenty-one more after the same pattern.  Woollen
+pads were also purchased to protect the animals from being galled.
+It ought to be mentioned here, perhaps, that the idea of such a
+saddle as I manufactured, was first derived from the Otago saddle,
+in use among the transport-trains of the English army in
+Abyssinia.
+
+A man named John William Shaw--a native of London, England, lately
+third-mate of the American ship `Nevada'--applied to me for work.
+Though his discharge from the `Nevada' was rather suspicious, yet
+he possessed all the requirements of such a man as I needed, and
+was an experienced hand with the palm and needle, could cut canvas
+to fit anything, was a pretty good navigator, ready and willing,
+so far as his professions went..  I saw no reason to refuse his
+services, and he was accordingly engaged at $300 per annum, to rank
+second to William L. Farquhar.  Farquhar was a capital navigator
+and excellent mathematician; was strong, energetic, and clever.
+
+The next thing I was engaged upon was to enlist, arm, and equip,
+a faithful escort of twenty men for the road.  Johari, the chief
+dragoman of the American Consulate, informed me that he knew where
+certain of Speke's "Faithfuls" were yet to be found.  The idea had
+struck me before, that if I could obtain the services of a few men
+acquainted with the ways of white men, and who could induce other
+good men to join the expedition I was organizing, I might consider
+myself fortunate.  More especially had I thought of Seedy Mbarak
+Mombay, commonly called "Bombay," who though his head was
+"woodeny," and his hands" clumsy," was considered to be the
+"faithfulest" of the "Faithfuls."
+
+With the aid of the dragoman Johari, I secured in a few hours the
+services of Uledi (Capt. Grant's former valet), Ulimengo, Baruti,
+Ambari, Mabruki (Muinyi Mabruki--Bull-headed Mabruki, Capt.
+Burton's former unhappy valet)--five of Speke's "Faithfuls."  When I
+asked them if they were willing to join another white man's
+expedition to Ujiji, they replied very readily that they were
+willing to join any brother of "Speke's."  Dr. John Kirk, Her
+Majesty's Consul at Zanzibar, who was present, told them that
+though I was no brother of "Speke's," I spoke his language.  This
+distinction mattered little to them: and I heard them, with great
+delight, declare their readiness to go anywhere with me, or do
+anything I wished.
+
+Mombay, as they called him, or Bombay, as we know him, had gone to
+Pemba, an island lying north of Zanzibar.  Uledi was sure Mombay
+would jump with joy at the prospect of another expedition.  Johari
+was therefore commissioned to write to him at Pemba, to inform him
+of the good fortune in store for him.
+
+On the fourth morning after the letter had been despatched, the
+famous Bombay made his appearance, followed in decent order and
+due rank by the "Faithfuls" of "Speke."  I looked in vain for the
+"woodeny head" and "alligator teeth" with which his former
+master had endowed him.  I saw a slender short man of fifty or
+thereabouts, with a grizzled head, an uncommonly high, narrow
+forehead, with a very large mouth, showing teeth very irregular,
+and wide apart.  An ugly rent in the upper front row of Bombay's
+teeth was made with the clenched fist of Capt. Speke in Uganda
+when his master's patience was worn out, and prompt punishment
+became necessary.  That Capt. Speke had spoiled him with kindness
+was evident, from the fact that Bombay had the audacity to stand
+up for a boxing-match with him.  But these things I only found
+out, when, months afterwards, I was called upon to administer
+punishment to him myself.  But, at his first appearance, I was
+favourably impressed with Bombay, though his face was rugged, his
+mouth large, his eyes small, and his nose flat.
+
+"Salaam aliekum," were the words he greeted me with.  "Aliekum
+salaam," I replied, with all the gravity I could muster.  I then
+informed him I required him as captain of my soldiers to Ujiji.
+His reply was that he was ready to do whatever I told him, go
+wherever I liked in short, be a pattern to servants, and a model
+to soldiers.  He hoped I would give him a uniform, and a good gun,
+both of which were promised.
+
+Upon inquiring for the rest of the "Faithfuls" who accompanied
+Speke into Egypt, I was told that at Zanzibar there were but six.
+Ferrajji, Maktub, Sadik, Sunguru, Manyu, Matajari, Mkata, and
+Almas, were dead; Uledi and Mtamani were in Unyanyembe; Hassan
+had gone to Kilwa, and Ferahan was supposed to be in Ujiji.
+
+Out of the six "Faithfuls," each of whom still retained his medal
+for assisting in the "Discovery of the Sources of the Nile," one,
+poor Mabruki, had met with a sad misfortune, which I feared would
+incapacitate him from active usefulness.
+
+Mabruki the "Bull-headed," owned a shamba (or a house with a garden
+attached to it), of which he was very proud.  Close to him lived a
+neighbour in similar circumstances, who was a soldier of Seyd
+Majid, with whom Mabruki, who was of a quarrelsome disposition, had
+a feud, which culminated in the soldier inducing two or three of
+his comrades to assist him in punishing the malevolent Mabruki, and
+this was done in a manner that only the heart of an African could
+conceive.  They tied the unfortunate fellow by his wrists to a
+branch of a tree, and after indulging their brutal appetite for
+revenge in torturing him, left him to hang in that position for
+two days.   At the expiration of the second day, he was accidentally
+discovered in a most pitiable condition.  His hands had swollen to
+an immense size, and the veins of one hand having been ruptured,
+he had lost its use.  It is needless to say that, when the affair
+came to Seyd Majid's ears, the miscreants were severely punished.
+Dr. Kirk, who attended the poor fellow, succeeded in restoring one
+hand to something of a resemblance of its former shape, but the
+other hand is sadly marred, and its former usefulness gone for
+ever.
+
+However, I engaged Mabruki, despite his deformed hands, his
+ugliness and vanity, because he was one of Speke's "Faithfuls."  For
+if he but wagged his tongue in my service, kept his eyes open, and
+opened his mouth at the proper time, I assured myself I could make
+him useful.
+
+Bombay, my captain of escort, succeeded in getting eighteen more
+free men to volunteer as "askari" (soldiers), men whom he knew
+would not desert, and for whom he declared himself responsible.
+They were an exceedingly fine-looking body of men, far more
+intelligent in appearance than I could ever have believed African
+barbarians could be.  They hailed principally from Uhiyow, others
+from Unyamwezi, some came from Useguhha and Ugindo.
+
+Their wages were set down at $36 each man per annum, or $3 each per
+month.  Each soldier was provided with a flintlock musket, powder
+horn, bullet-pouch, knife, and hatchet, besides enough powder and
+ball for 200 rounds.
+
+Bombay, in consideration of his rank, and previous faithful
+services to Burton, Speke and Grant, was engaged at $80 a year,
+half that sum in advance, a good muzzle-loading rifle, besides, a
+pistol, knife, and hatchet were given to him, while the other five
+"Faithfuls," Ambari, Mabruki, Ulimengo, Baruti, and Uledi, were
+engaged at $40 a year, with proper equipments as soldiers.
+
+Having studied fairly well all the East African travellers' books
+regarding Eastern and Central Africa, my mind had conceived the
+difficulties which would present themselves during the prosecution
+of my search after Dr. Livingstone.
+
+To obviate all of these, as well as human wit could suggest, was
+my constant thought and aim.
+
+"Shall I permit myself, while looking from Ujiji over the waters of
+the Tanganika Lake to the other side, to be balked on the threshold
+of success by the insolence of a King Kannena or the caprice of a
+Hamed bin Sulayyam?" was a question I asked myself.  To guard
+against such a contingency I determined to carry my own boats.
+"Then," I thought, "if I hear of Livingstone being on the
+Tanganika, I can launch my boat and proceed after him."
+
+I procured one large boat, capable of carrying twenty persons,
+with stores and goods sufficient for a cruise, from the American
+Consul, for the sum of $80, and a smaller one from another American
+gentleman for $40.  The latter would hold comfortably six men,
+with suitable stores.
+
+I did not intend to carry the boats whole or bodily, but to strip
+them of their boards, and carry the timbers and thwarts only.  As
+a substitute for the boards, I proposed to cover each boat with a
+double canvas skin well tarred.  The work of stripping them and
+taking them to pieces fell to me.  This little job occupied me
+five days.
+
+I also packed them up, for the pagazis.  Each load was carefully
+weighed, and none exceeded 68 lbs. in weight.  John Shaw excelled
+himself in the workmanship displayed on the canvas boats; when
+finished, they fitted their frames admirably.  The canvas--six
+bolts of English hemp, No. 3--was procured from Ludha Damji,
+who furnished it from the Sultan's storeroom.
+
+An insuperable obstacle to rapid transit in Africa is the want of
+carriers, and as speed was the main object of the Expedition under
+my command, my duty was to lessen this difficulty as much as
+possible.  My carriers could only be engaged after arriving at
+Bagamoyo, on the mainland.  I had over twenty good donkeys ready,
+and I thought a cart adapted for the footpaths of Africa might
+prove an advantage.  Accordingly I had a cart constructed,
+eighteen inches wide and five feet long, supplied with two
+fore-wheels of a light American wagon, more for the purpose of
+conveying the narrow ammunition-boxes.  I estimated that if a
+donkey could carry to Unyanyembe a load of four frasilahs,
+or 140 lbs., he ought to be able to draw eight frasilahs on such
+a cart, which would be equal to the carrying capacity of four
+stout pagazis or carriers.  Events will prove, how my theories
+were borne out by practice.
+
+When my purchases were completed, and I beheld them piled up, tier
+after tier, row upon row, here a mass of cooking-utensils, there
+bundles of rope, tents, saddles, a pile of portmanteaus and boxes,
+containing every imaginable thing, I confess I was rather abashed
+at my own temerity.  Here were at least six tons of material!
+"How will it ever be possible," I thought, "to move all this inert
+mass across the wilderness stretching between the sea, and the
+great lakes of Africa?  Bah, cast all doubts away, man, and have
+at them!  `Sufficient for the day is the evil thereof,' without
+borrowing from the morrow."
+
+The traveller must needs make his way into the African interior
+after a fashion very different from that  to which he has been
+accustomed in other countries.  He requires to take with him just
+what a ship must have when about to sail on a long voyage.  He
+must have his slop chest, his little store of canned dainties,
+and his medicines, besides which, he must have enough guns, powder,
+and ball to be able to make a series of good fights if necessary.
+He must have men to convey these miscellaneous articles; and as a
+man's maximum load does not exceed 70 lbs., to convey 11,000 lbs.
+requires nearly  160 men.
+
+Europe and the Orient, even Arabia and Turkestan, have royal ways
+of travelling compared to Africa.  Specie is received in all those
+countries, by which a traveller may carry his means about with
+him on his own person.  Eastern and Central Africa, however, demand
+a necklace, instead of a cent; two yards of American sheeting,
+instead of half a dollar, or a florin, and a kitindi of thick
+brass-wire, in place of a gold piece.
+
+The African traveller can hire neither wagons nor camels, neither
+horses nor mules, to proceed with him into the interior.  His means
+of conveyance are limited to black and naked men, who demand at
+least $15 a head for every 70 lbs. weight carried only as far as
+Unyanyembe.
+
+One thing amongst others my predecessors omitted to inform men
+bound for Africa, which is of importance, and that is, that no
+traveller should ever think of coming to Zanzibar with his money
+in any other shape than gold coin.  Letters of credit, circular
+notes, and such civilized things I have found to be a century
+ahead of Zanzibar people.
+
+Twenty and twenty-five cents deducted out of every dollar I drew
+on paper is one of the unpleasant, if not unpleasantest things I
+have committed to lasting memory.  For Zanzibar is a spot far
+removed from all avenues of European commerce, and coin is at a
+high premium.  A man may talk and entreat, but though he may have
+drafts, cheques, circular notes, letters of credit, a carte blanche
+to get what he wants, out of every dollar must, be deducted twenty,
+twenty-five and thirty cents, so I was told, and so was my
+experience.  What a pity there is no branch-bank here!
+
+I had intended to have gone into Africa incognito.  But the fact
+that a white man, even an American, was about to enter Africa was
+soon known all over Zanzibar.  This fact was repeated a thousand
+times in the streets, proclaimed in all shop alcoves, and at the
+custom-house.  The native bazaar laid hold of it, and agitated it
+day and night until my departure.  The foreigners, including the
+Europeans, wished to know the pros and cons of my coming in and
+going out.
+
+My answer to all questions, pertinent and impertinent, was, I am
+going to Africa.  Though my card bore the words
+
+     ________________________________________
+    |                                        |
+    |            HENRY M.  STANLEY.          |
+    |                                        |
+    |                                        |
+    |  New York Herald.                      |
+    |________________________________________|
+
+very few, I believe, ever coupled the words `New York Herald'
+with a search after "Doctor Livingstone."  It was not my fault,
+was it?
+
+Ah, me! what hard work it is to start an expedition alone!  What
+with hurrying through the baking heat of the fierce relentless sun
+from shop to shop, strengthening myself with far-reaching and
+enduring patience far the haggling contest with the livid-faced
+Hindi, summoning courage and wit to brow-beat the villainous Goanese,
+and match the foxy Banyan, talking volumes throughout the day,
+correcting estimates, making up accounts, superintending the
+delivery of purchased articles, measuring and weighing them, to see
+that everything was of full measure and weight, overseeing the white
+men Farquhar and Shaw, who were busy on donkey saddles, sails, tents,
+and boats for the Expedition, I felt, when the day was over, as
+though limbs and brain well deserved their rest. Such labours were
+mine unremittingly for a month.
+
+Having bartered drafts on Mr. James Gordon Bennett to the amount
+of several thousand dollars for cloth, beads, wire, donkeys, and
+a thousand necessaries, having advanced pay to the white men, and
+black escort of the Expedition, having fretted Capt. Webb and his
+family more than enough with the din of preparation, and filled
+his house with my goods, there was nothing further to do but to
+leave my formal adieus with the Europeans, and thank the Sultan
+and those gentlemen who had assisted me, before embarking for
+Bagamoyo.
+
+The day before my departure from Zanzibar the American Consul,
+having just habited himself in his black coat, and taking with him
+an extra black hat, in order to be in state apparel, proceeded with
+me to the Sultan's palace.  The prince had been generous to me;
+he had presented me with an Arab horse, had furnished me with
+letters of introduction to his agents, his chief men, and
+representatives in the interior, and in many other ways had
+shown himself well disposed towards me.
+
+The palace is a large, roomy, lofty, square house close to the
+fort, built of coral, and plastered thickly with lime mortar.
+In appearance it is half Arabic and half Italian.  The shutters
+are Venetian blinds painted a vivid green, and presenting a
+striking contrast to the whitewashed walls.  Before the great,
+lofty, wide door were ranged in two crescents several Baluch and
+Persian mercenaries, armed with curved swords and targes of
+rhinoceros hide.  Their dress consisted of a muddy-white cotton
+shirt, reaching to the ancles, girdled with a leather belt thickly
+studded with silver bosses.
+
+As we came in sight a signal was passed to some person inside the
+entrance.  When within twenty yards of the door, the Sultan, who
+was standing waiting, came down the steps, and, passing through the
+ranks, advanced toward us, with his right hand stretched out, and a
+genial smile of welcome on his face.  On our side we raised our
+hats, and shook hands with him, after which, doing according as he
+bade us, we passed forward, and arrived on the highest step near
+the entrance door.  He pointed forward; we bowed and arrived at
+the foot of an unpainted and narrow staircase to turn once more to
+the Sultan.  The Consul, I perceived, was ascending sideways, a
+mode of progression which I saw was intended for a compromise with
+decency and dignity.  At the top of the stairs we waited, with
+our faces towards the up-coming Prince.  Again we were waved
+magnanimously forward, for before us was the reception-hall and
+throne-room.  I noticed, as I marched forward to the furthest end,
+that the room was high, and painted in the Arabic style, that the
+carpet was thick and of Persian fabric, that the furniture consisted
+of a dozen gilt chairs and a chandelier,
+
+We were seated; Ludha Damji, the Banyan collector of customs, a
+venerable-looking old man, with a shrewd intelligent face, sat on
+the right of the Sultan; next to him was the great Mohammedan
+merchant Tarya Topan who had come to be present at the interview,
+not only because he was one of the councillors of His Highness,
+but because he also took a lively interest in this American
+Expedition.  Opposite to Ludha sat Capt. Webb, and next to him
+I was seated, opposite Tarya Topan.  The Sultan sat in a gilt chair
+between the Americans and the councillors.  Johari the dragoman
+stood humbly before the Sultan, expectant and ready to interpret
+what we had to communicate to the Prince.
+
+The Sultan, so far as dress goes, might be taken for a Mingrelian
+gentleman, excepting, indeed, for the turban, whose ample folds in
+alternate colours of red, yellow, brown, and white, encircled his
+head.  His long robe was of dark cloth, cinctured round the waist
+with his rich sword-belt, from which was suspended a gold-hilted
+scimitar, encased in a scabbard also enriched with gold: His legs
+and feet were bare, and had a ponderous look about them, since he
+suffered from that strange curse of Zanzibar--elephantiasis.  His
+feet were slipped into a pair of watta (Arabic for slippers), with
+thick soles and a strong leathern band over the instep.  His light
+complexion and his correct features, which are intelligent and
+regular, bespeak the Arab patrician.  They indicate, however,
+nothing except his high descent and blood; no traits of character
+are visible unless there is just a trace of amiability, and perfect
+contentment with himself and all around.
+
+Such is Prince, or Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar and Pemba, and
+the East coast of Africa, from Somali Land to the Mozambique, as he
+appeared to me.
+
+Coffee was served in cups supported by golden finjans, also some
+cocoa-nut milk, and rich sweet sherbet.
+
+The conversation began with the question addressed to the Consul.
+
+"Are you well?"
+
+Consul.--" Yes, thank you.  How is His Highness?"
+
+Highness.--"Quite well!"
+
+Highness to me.--"Are you well?"
+
+Answer.--"Quite well, thanks!"
+
+The Consul now introduces business; and questions about my travels
+follow from His Highness--
+
+"How do you like Persia?"
+
+"Have you seen Kerbela, Bagdad, Masr, Stamboul?"
+
+"Have the Turks many soldiers?"
+
+"How many has Persia?"
+
+"Is Persia fertile?"
+
+"How do you like Zanzibar?"
+
+Having answered each question to his Highness' satisfaction, he
+handed me letters of introduction to his officers at Bagamoyo and
+Kaole, and a general introductory letter to all Arab merchants
+whom I might meet on the road, and concluded his remarks to me,
+with the expressed hope, that on whatever mission I was bound,
+I should be perfectly successful.
+
+We bowed ourselves out of his presence in much the same manner that
+we had bowed ourselves in, he accompanying us to the great entrance
+door.
+
+Mr. Goodhue of Salem, an American merchant long resident in
+Zanzibar, presented me, as I gave him my adieu, with a blooded bay
+horse, imported from the Cape of Good Hope, and worth, at least at
+Zanzibar, $500.
+
+Feb. 4.--By the 4th of February, twenty-eight days from the date
+of my arrival at Zanzibar, the organization and equipment of the
+"`New York Herald' Expedition" was complete; tents and saddles had
+been manufactured, boats and sails were ready.  The donkeys brayed,
+and the horses neighed impatiently for the road.
+
+Etiquette demanded that I should once more present my card to the
+European and American Consuls at Zanzibar, and the word "farewell"
+was said to everybody.
+
+On the fifth day, four dhows were anchored before the American
+Consulate.  Into one were lifted the two horses, into two others
+the donkeys, into the fourth, the largest, the black escort, and
+bulky moneys of the Expedition.
+
+A little before noon we set sail.  The American flag, a present to
+the Expedition by that kind-hearted lady, Mrs. Webb, was raised
+to the mast-head; the Consul, his lady, and exuberant little
+children, Mary and Charley, were on the housetop waving the starry
+banner, hats, and handkerchiefs, a token of farewell to me and
+mine.  Happy people, and good! may their course and ours be
+prosperous, and may God's blessing rest on us all!
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.  LIFE AT BAGAMOYO.
+
+
+The isle of Zanzibar with its groves of cocoa-nut, mango, clove,
+and cinnamon, and its sentinel islets of Chumbi and French, with
+its whitewashed city and jack-fruit odor, with its harbor and ships
+that tread the deep, faded slowly from view, and looking westward,
+the African continent rose, a similar bank of green verdure to
+that which had just receded till it was a mere sinuous line above
+the horizon, looming in a northerly direction to the sublimity of
+a mountain chain.  The distance across from Zanzibar to Bagamoyo
+may be about twenty-five miles, yet it took the dull and lazy
+dhows ten hours before they dropped anchor on the top of the
+coral reef plainly visible a few feet below the surface of the
+water, within a hundred yards of the beach.
+
+The newly-enlisted soldiers, fond of noise and excitement,
+discharged repeated salvos by way of a salute to the mixed
+crowd of Arabs, Banyans, and Wasawahili, who stood on the beach
+to receive the Musungu (white man), which they did with a general
+stare and a chorus of "Yambo, bana?" (how are you, master?)
+
+In our own land the meeting with a large crowd is rather a tedious
+operation, as our independent citizens insist on an interlacing of
+fingers, and a vigorous shaking thereof before their pride is
+satisfied, and the peaceful manifestation endorsed; but on this
+beach, well lined with spectators, a response of "Yambo, bana!"
+sufficed, except with one who of all there was acknowledged the
+greatest, and who, claiming, like all great men, individual
+attention, came forward to exchange another "Yambo!" on his own
+behalf, and to shake hands.  This personage with a long trailing
+turban, was Jemadar Esau, commander of the Zanzibar force of
+soldiers, police, or Baluch gendarmes stationed at Bagamoyo.
+He had accompanied Speke and Grant a good distance into the
+interior, and they had rewarded him liberally.  He took upon
+himself the responsibility of assisting in the debarkation of
+the Expedition, and unworthy as was his appearance, disgraceful
+as he was in his filth, I here commend him for his influence
+over the rabble to all future East African travellers.
+
+Foremost among those who welcomed us was a Father of the Society
+of St.-Esprit, who with other Jesuits, under Father Superior
+Horner, have established a missionary post of considerable
+influence and merit at Bagamoyo.  We were invited to partake of
+the hospitality of the Mission, to take our meals there, and,
+should we desire it, to pitch our camp on their grounds.  But
+however strong the geniality of the welcome and sincere the
+heartiness of the invitation, I am one of those who prefer
+independence to dependence if it is possible.  Besides, my
+sense of the obligation between host and guest had just had
+a fine edge put upon it by the delicate forbearance of my kind
+host at Zanzibar, who had betrayed no sign of impatience at the
+trouble I was only too conscious of having caused him.  I
+therefore informed the hospitable Padre, that only for one night
+could I suffer myself to be enticed from my camp.
+
+I selected a house near the western outskirts of the town, where
+there is a large open square through which the road from Unyanyembe
+enters.  Had I been at Bagamoyo a month, I could not have bettered
+my location.  My tents were pitched fronting the tembe (house) I
+had chosen, enclosing a small square, where business could be
+transacted, bales looked over, examined, and marked, free from the
+intrusion of curious sightseers.  After driving the twenty-seven
+animals of the Expedition into the enclosure in the rear of the
+house, storing the bales of goods, and placing a cordon of soldiers
+round, I proceeded to the Jesuit Mission, to a late dinner, being
+tired and ravenous, leaving the newly-formed camp in charge of the
+white men and Capt. Bombay.
+
+The Mission is distant from the town a good half mile, to the
+north of it; it is quite a village of itself, numbering some
+fifteen or sixteen houses.  There are more than ten padres engaged
+in the establishment, and as many sisters, and all find plenty of
+occupation in educing from native crania the fire of intelligence.
+Truth compels me to state that they are very successful, having
+over two hundred pupils, boys and girls, in the Mission, and,
+from the oldest to the youngest, they show the impress of the
+useful education they have received.
+
+The dinner furnished to the padres and their guest consisted of as
+many plats as a first-class hotel in Paris usually supplies, and
+cooked with nearly as much skill, though the surroundings were by
+no means equal.  I feel assured also that the padres, besides being
+tasteful in their potages and entrees, do not stultify their ideas
+for lack of that element which Horace, Hafiz, and Byron have
+praised so much.  The champagne--think of champagne Cliquot in East
+Africa!--Lafitte, La Rose, Burgundy, and Bordeaux were of
+first-rate quality, and the meek and lowly eyes of the fathers
+were not a little brightened under the vinous influence.  Ah! those
+fathers understand life, and appreciate its duration.  Their
+festive board drives the African jungle fever from their doors,
+while it soothes the gloom and isolation which strike one with awe,
+as one emerges from the lighted room and plunges into the depths
+of the darkness of an African night, enlivened only by the wearying
+monotone of the frogs and crickets, and the distant ululation of
+the hyena.  It requires somewhat above human effort, unaided by the
+ruby liquid that cheers, to be always suave and polite amid the
+dismalities of native life in Africa.
+
+After the evening meal, which replenished my failing strength, and
+for which I felt the intensest gratitude, the most advanced of the
+pupils came forward, to the number of twenty, with brass instruments,
+thus forming a full band of music.  It rather astonished me to hear
+instrumental sounds issue forth in harmony from such woolly-headed
+youngsters; to hear well-known French music at this isolated port,
+to hear negro boys, that a few months ago knew nothing beyond the
+traditions of their ignorant mothers, stand forth and chant
+Parisian songs about French valor and glory, with all the
+sangfroid of gamins from the purlieus of Saint-Antoine.
+
+I had a most refreshing night's rest, and at dawn I sought out
+my camp, with a will to enjoy the new life now commencing.  On
+counting the animals, two donkeys were missing; and on taking
+notes of my African moneys, one coil of No. 6 wire was not to be
+found.  Everybody had evidently fallen on the ground to sleep,
+oblivious of the fact that on the coast there are many dishonest
+prowlers at night.  Soldiers were despatched to search through
+the town and neighbourhood, and Jemadar Esau was apprised of
+our loss, and stimulated to discover the animals by the promise
+of a reward.  Before night one of the missing donkeys was found
+outside the town nibbling at manioc-leaves, but the other animal
+and the coil of wire were never found.
+
+Among my visitors this first day at Bagamoyo was Ali bin Salim,
+a brother of the famous Sayd bin Salim, formerly Ras Kafilah to
+Burton and Speke, and subsequently to Speke and Grant.  His
+salaams were very profuse, and moreover, his brother was to be my
+agent in Unyamwezi, so that I did not hesitate to accept his offer
+of assistance.  But, alas, for my white face and too trustful
+nature! this Ali bin Salim turned out to be a snake in the grass,
+a very sore thorn in my side.  I was invited to his comfortable
+house to partake of coffee.  I went there: the coffee was good
+though sugarless, his promises were many, but they proved valueless.
+Said he to me, "I am your friend; I wish to serve you., what can
+I do for you?"  Replied I, "I am obliged to you, I need a good
+friend who, knowing the language and Customs of the Wanyamwezi,
+can procure me the pagazis I need and send me off quickly.  Your
+brother is acquainted with the Wasungu (white men), and knows
+that what they promise they make good.  Get me a hundred and
+forty pagazis and I will pay you your price."   With unctuous
+courtesy, the reptile I was now warmly nourishing; said,
+"I do not want anything from you, my friend, for such a slight
+service, rest content and quiet; you shall not stop here fifteen
+days.  To-morrow morning I will come and overhaul your bales to
+see what is needed."  I bade him good morning, elated with the
+happy thought that I was soon to tread the Unyanyembe road.
+
+The reader must be made acquainted with two good and sufficient
+reasons why I was to devote all my energy to lead the Expedition
+as quickly as possible from Bagamoyo.
+
+First, I wished to reach Ujiji before the news reached Livingstone
+that I was in search of him, for my impression of him was that he
+was a man who would try to put as much distance as possible
+between us, rather than make an effort to shorten it, and I should
+have my long journey for nothing.
+
+Second, the Masika, or rainy season, would soon be on me, which, if
+it caught me at Bagamoyo, would prevent my departure until it was
+over, which meant a delay of forty days, and exaggerated as the
+rains were by all men with whom I came in contact, it rained every
+day for forty days without intermission.  This I knew was a thing
+to dread; for I had my memory stored with all kinds of rainy
+unpleasantnesses.  For instance, there was the rain of Virginia and
+its concomitant horrors--wetness, mildew, agues, rheumatics,
+and such like; then there were the English rains, a miserable drizzle
+causing the blue devils; then the rainy season of Abyssinia with the
+flood-gates of the firmament opened, and an universal down-pour of
+rain, enough to submerge half a continent in a few hours; lastly,
+there was the pelting monsoon of India, a steady shut-in-house
+kind of rain.  To which of these rains should I compare this
+dreadful Masika of East Africa?  Did not Burton write much about
+black mud in Uzaramo?  Well, a country whose surface soil is
+called black mud in fine weather, what can it be called when forty
+days' rain beat on it, and feet of pagazis and donkeys make paste
+of it?  These were natural reflections, induced by the circumstances
+of the hour, and I found myself much exercised in mind in consequence.
+
+Ali bin Salim, true to his promise, visited my camp on the morrow,
+with a very important air, and after looking at the pile of cloth
+bales, informed me that I must have them covered with mat-bags.  He
+said he would send a man to have them measured, but he enjoined me
+not to make any bargain for the bags, as he would make it all
+right.
+
+While awaiting with commendable patience the 140 pagazis
+promised by Ali bin Salim we were all employed upon everything
+that thought could suggest needful for crossing the sickly
+maritime region, so that we might make the transit before the
+terrible fever could unnerve us, and make us joyless.  A short
+experience at Bagamoya showed us what we lacked, what was
+superfluous, and what was necessary.  We were visited one night
+by a squall, accompanied by furious rain.  I had $1,500 worth
+of pagazi cloth in my tent. In the morning I looked and lo!
+the drilling had let in rain like a sieve, and every yard of cloth
+was wet. It occupied two days afterwards to dry the cloths, and
+fold them again.  The drill-tent was condemned, and a No. 5
+hemp-canvas tent at onto prepared.  After which I felt convinced
+that my cloth bales, and one year's ammunition, were safe, and
+that I could defy the Masika.
+
+In the hurry of departure from Zanzibar, and in my ignorance of
+how bales should be made, I had submitted to the better judgment
+and ripe experience of one Jetta, a commission merchant, to prepare
+my bales for carriage.  Jetta did not weigh the bales as he made
+them up, but piled the Merikani, Kaniki, Barsati, Jamdani, Joho,
+Ismahili, in alternate layers, and roped the same into bales.
+One or two pagazis came to my camp and began to chaffer; they
+wished to see the bales first, before they would make a final
+bargain.  They tried to raise them up--ugh! ugh! it was of no use,
+and withdrew.  A fine Salter's spring balance was hung up, and a
+bale suspended to the hook; the finger indicated 105 lbs. or
+3 frasilah, which was just 35 lbs. or one frasilah overweight.
+Upon putting all the bales to this test, I perceived that Jetta's
+guess-work, with all his experience, had caused considerable
+trouble to me.
+
+The soldiers were set to work to reopen and repack, which latter
+task is performed in the following manner:--We cut a doti, or four
+yards of Merikani, ordinarily sold at Zanzibar for $2.75 the
+piece of thirty yards, and spread out. We take a piece or bolt
+of good Merikani, and instead of the double fold given it by the
+Nashua and Salem mills, we fold it into three parts, by which the
+folds have a breadth of a foot; this piece forms the first layer,
+and will weigh nine pounds; the second layer consists of six pieces
+of Kaniki, a blue stuff similar to the blouse stuff of France, and
+th blue jeans of America, though much lighter; the third layer is
+formed of the second piece of Merikani, the fourth of six more
+pieces of Kaniki, the fifth of Merikani, the sixth of Kaniki as
+before, and the seventh and last of Merikani.  We have thus four
+pieces of Merikani, which weigh 36 lbs., and 18 pieces of Kaniki
+weighing also 36 lbs., making a total of 72 lbs., or a little
+more than two frasilahs; the cloth is then folded singly over these
+layers, each corner tied to another.  A bundle of coir-rope is
+then brought, and two men, provided with a wooden mallet for
+beating and pressing the bale, proceed to tie it up with as much
+nicety as sailors serve down rigging.
+
+When complete, a bale is a solid mass three feet and a half long,
+a foot deep, and a foot wide.  Of these bales I had to convey
+eighty-two to Unyanyembe, forty of which consisted solely of the
+Merikani and Kaniki.  The other forty-two contained the Merikani
+and coloured cloths, which latter were to serve as honga or tribute
+cloths, and to engage another set of pagazis from Unyanyembe to
+Ujiji, and from Ujiji to the regions beyond.
+
+The fifteenth day asked of me by Ali bin Salim for the procuring
+of the pagazis passed by, and there was not the ghost of a pagazi
+in my camp.  I sent Mabruki the Bullheaded to Ali bin Salim, to
+convey my salaams and express a hope that he had kept his word.
+In half an hour's time Mabruki returned with the reply of the
+Arab, that in a few days he would be able to collect them all;
+but, added Mabruki, slyly, "Bana, I don't believe him.  He said
+aloud to himself, in my hearing, `Why should I get the Musungu
+pagazis?  Seyd Burghash did not send a letter to me, but to the
+Jemadar.  Why should I trouble myself about him?  Let Seyd
+Burghash write me a letter to that purpose, and I will procure
+them within two days."'
+
+To my mind this was a time for action:  Ali bin Salim should see
+that it was ill trifling with a white man in earnest to start.
+I rode down to his house to ask him what he meant.
+
+His reply was, Mabruki had told a lie as black as his face.  He
+had never said anything approaching to such a thing.  He was
+willing to become my slave--to become a pagazi himself.  But here I
+stopped the voluble Ali, and informed him that I could not think of
+employing him in the capacity of a pagazi, neither could I find it
+in my heart to trouble Seyd Burghash to write a direct letter to
+him, or to require of a man who had deceived me once, as Ali bin
+Salim had, any service of any nature whatsoever.  It would be
+better, therefore, if Ali bin Salim would stay away from my
+camp, and not enter it either in person or by proxy.
+
+I had lost fifteen days, for Jemadar Sadur, at Kaole, had never
+stirred from his fortified house in that village in my service,
+save to pay a visit, after the receipt of the Sultan's letter.
+Naranji, custom-house agent at Kaoie, solely under the thumb of
+the great Ludha Damji, had not responded to Ludha's worded request
+that he would procure pagazis, except with winks, nods, and
+promises, and it is but just stated how I fared at the hands of Ali
+bin Salim.  In this extremity I remembered the promise made to me
+by the great merchant of Zanzibar--Tarya Topan--a Mohammedan
+Hindi--that he would furnish me with a letter to a young man named
+Soor Hadji Palloo, who was said to be the best man in Bagamoyo to
+procure a supply of pagazis.
+
+I despatched my Arab interpreter by a dhow to Zanzibar, with a
+very earnest request to Capt. Webb that he would procure from
+Tarya Topan the introductory letter so long delayed.  It was the
+last card in my hand.
+
+On the third day the Arab returned, bringing with him not only
+the letter to Soor Hadji Palloo, but an abundance of good things
+from the ever-hospitable house of Mr. Webb.  In a very short time
+after the receipt of his letter, the eminent young man Soor Hadji
+Palloo came to visit me, and informed me he had been requested by
+Tarya Topan to hire for me one hundred and forty pagazis to
+Unyanyembe in the shortest time possible.  This he said would be
+very expensive, for there were scores of Arabs and Wasawabili
+merchants on the look out for every caravan that came in from the
+interior, and they paid 20 doti, or 80 yards of cloth, to each
+pagazi.  Not willing or able to pay more, many of these merchants
+had been waiting as long as six months before they could get their
+quota.  "If you," continued he, "desire to depart quickly, you
+must pay from 25 to 40 doti, and I can send you off before one
+month is ended.  "In reply, I said, "Here are my cloths for pagazis
+to the amount of $1,750, or 3,500 doti, sufficient to give one
+hundred and forty men 25 doti each.  The most I am willing to pay
+is 25 doti: send one hundred and forty pagazis to Unyanyembe
+with my cloth and wire, and I will make your heart glad with the
+richest present you have ever received."  With a refreshing naivete,
+the "young man" said he did not want any present, he would get
+me my quota of pagazis, and then I could tell the "Wasungu" what
+a good "young man" he was, and consequently the benefit he would
+receive would be an increase of business.  He closed his reply
+with the astounding remark that he had ten pagazis at his house
+already, and if I would be good enough to have four bales of cloth,
+two bags of beads, and twenty coils of wire carried to his house,
+the pagazis could leave Bagamoyo the next day, under charge of
+three soldiers.
+
+"For, he remarked, "it is much better and cheaper to send many
+small caravans than one large one.  Large caravans invite attack,
+or are delayed by avaricious chiefs upon the most trivial pretexts,
+while small ones pass by without notice."
+
+The bales and the beads were duly carried to Soor Hadji Palloo's
+house, and the day passed with me in mentally congratulating myself
+upon my good fortune, in complimenting the young Hindi's talents
+for business, the greatness and influence of Tarya Topan, and the
+goodness of Mr. Webb in thus hastening my departure from Bagamoyo.
+I mentally vowed a handsome present, and a great puff in my book,
+to Soor Hadji Palloo, and it was with a glad heart that I prepared
+these soldiers for their march to Unyayembe.
+
+The task of preparing the first caravan for the Unyanyembe road
+informed me upon several things that have escaped the notice of
+my predecessors in East Africa, a timely knowledge of which would
+have been of infinite service to me at Zanzibar, in the purchase
+and selection of sufficient and proper cloth.
+
+The setting out of the first caravan enlightened me also on the
+subject of honga, or tribute.  Tribute had to be packed by itself,
+all of choice cloth; for the chiefs, besides being avaricious, are
+also very fastidious.  They will not accept the flimsy cloth of the
+pagazi, but a royal and exceedingly high-priced dabwani, Ismahili,
+Rehani, or a Sohari, or dotis of crimson broad cloth.  The tribute
+for the first caravan cost $25.  Having more than one hundred and
+forty pagazis to despatch, this tribute money would finally amount
+to $330 in gold, with a minimum of 25c. on each dollar.  Ponder on
+this, O traveller!  I lay bare these facts for your special instruction.
+
+But before my first caravan was destined to part company with me,
+Soor Hadji Palloo--worthy young man--and I were to come to a
+definite understanding about money matters.  The morning appointed
+for departure Soor Hadji Palloo came to my hut and presented his
+bill, with all the gravity of innocence, for supplying the pagazis
+with twenty-five doti each as their hire to Unyanyembe, begging
+immediate payment in money.  Words fail to express the astonishment
+I naturally felt, that this sharp-looking young man should so soon
+have forgotten the verbal contract entered into between him and
+myself the morning previous, which was to the effect that out of
+the three thousand doti stored in my tent, and bought expressly
+for pagazi hire, each and every man hired for me as carriers from
+Bagamoyo to Unyanyembe, should be paid out of the store there in
+my tent.  when I asked if he remembered the contract, he replied
+in the affirmative: his reasons for breaking it so soon were,
+that he wished to sell his cloths, not mine, and for his cloths
+he should want money, not an exchange.  But I gave him to comprehend
+that as he was procuring pagazis for me, he was to pay my pagazis
+with my cloths; that all the money I expected to pay him, should be
+just such a sum I thought adequate for his trouble as my agent,
+and that only on those terms should he act for me in this or any
+other matter, and that the "Musungu" was not accustomed to eat
+his words.
+
+The preceding paragraph embodies many more words than are contained
+in it.  It embodies a dialogue of an hour, an angry altercation
+of half-an-hour's duration, a vow taken on the part of Soor Hadji
+Palloo, that if I did not take his cloths he should not touch my
+business, many tears, entreaties, woeful penitence, and much else,
+all of which were responded to with, "Do as I want you to do, or do
+nothing.  "Finally came relief, and a happy ending.  Soor Hadji
+Palloo went away with a bright face, taking with him the three
+soldiers' posho (food), and honga (tribute) for the caravan.  Well
+for me that it ended so, and that subsequent quarrels of a similar
+nature terminated so peaceably, otherwise I doubt whether my
+departure from Bagamoyo would have happened so early as it did.
+While I am on this theme, and as it really engrossed every moment
+of my time at Bagamoyo, I may as well be more explicit regarding
+Boor Hadji Palloo and his connection with my business.
+
+Soor Hadji Palloo was a smart young man of business, energetic,
+quick at mental calculation, and seemed to be born for a successful
+salesman.  His eyes were never idle; they wandered over every
+part of my person, over the tent, the bed, the guns, the clothes,
+and having swung clear round, began the silent circle over again.
+His fingers were never at rest, they had a fidgety, nervous
+action at their tips, constantly in the act of feeling something;
+while in the act of talking to me, he would lean over and feel the
+texture of the cloth of my trousers, my coat, or my shoes or
+socks: then he would feel his own light jamdani shirt or dabwain
+loin-cloth, until his eyes casually resting upon a novelty, his
+body would lean forward, and his arm was stretched out with the
+willing fingers.  His jaws also were in perpetual motion, caused by
+vile habits he had acquired of chewing betel-nut and lime, and
+sometimes tobacco and lime.  They gave out a sound similar to that
+of a young shoat, in the act of sucking.  He was a pious
+Mohammedan, and observed the external courtesies and ceremonies
+of the true believers.  He would affably greet me, take off his
+shoes, enter my tent protesting he was not fit to sit in my
+presence, and after being seated, would begin his ever-crooked
+errand.  Of honesty, literal and practical honesty, this youth knew
+nothing; to the pure truth he was an utter stranger; the
+falsehoods he had uttered during his short life seemed already to
+have quenched the bold gaze of innocence from his eyes, to have
+banished the colour of truthfulness from his features, to have
+transformed him--yet a stripling of twenty--into a most accomplished
+rascal, and consummate expert in dishonesty.
+
+During the six weeks I encamped at Bagamoyo, waiting for my quota
+of men, this lad of twenty gave me very much trouble.  He was
+found out half a dozen times a day in dishonesty, yet was in no
+way abashed by it.  He would send in his account of the cloths
+supplied to the pagazis, stating them to be 25 paid to each; on
+sending a man to inquire I would find the greatest number to have
+been 20, and the smallest 12.  Soor Hadji Palloo described the
+cloths to be of first-class quality, Ulyah cloths, worth in the
+market four times more than the ordinary quality given to the
+pagazis, yet a personal examination would prove them to be the
+flimsiest goods sold, such as American sheeting 2 1/2 feet broad,
+and worth $2.75 per 30 yards a piece at Zanzibar, or the most
+inferior Kaniki, which is generally sold at $9 per score.  He
+would personally come to my camp and demand 40 lbs. of Sami-Sami,
+Merikani, and Bubu beads for posho, or caravan rations; an
+inspection of their store before departure from their first camp
+from Bagamoyo would show a deficiency ranging from 5 to 30 lbs.
+Moreover, he cheated in cash-money, such as demanding $4 for
+crossing the Kingani Ferry for every ten pagazis, when the fare
+was $2 for the same number; and an unconscionable number of pice
+(copper coins equal in value to 3/4 of a cent) were required for
+posho.  It was every day for four weeks that this system of
+roguery was carried out. Each day conceived a dozen new schemes;
+every instant of his time he seemed to be devising how to plunder,
+until I was fairly at my wits' end how to thwart him.  Exposure
+before a crowd of his fellows brought no blush of shame to his
+sallow cheeks; he would listen with a mere shrug of the shoulders
+and that was all, which I might interpret any way it pleased me.
+A threat to reduce his present had no effect; a bird in the hand
+was certainly worth two in the bush for him, so ten dollars' worth
+of goods stolen and in his actual possession was of more intrinsic
+value than the promise of $20 in a few days, though it was that of
+a white man.
+
+Readers will of course ask themselves why I did not, after the
+first discovery of these shameless proceedings, close my business
+with him, to which I make reply, that I could not do without him
+unless his equal were forthcoming, that I never felt so thoroughly
+dependent on any one man as I did upon him; without his or his
+duplicate's aid, I must have stayed at Bagamoyo at least six
+months, at the end of which time the Expedition would have become
+valueless, the rumour of it having been blown abroad to the four
+winds.  It was immediate departure that was essential to my
+success--departure from Bagamoyo--after which it might be possible
+for me to control my own future in a great measure.
+
+These troubles were the greatest that I could at this time imagine.
+I have already stated that I had $1,750 worth of pagazis'
+clothes, or 3,500 doti, stored in my tent, and above what my
+bales contained.  Calculating one hundred and forty pagazis at 25
+doti each, I supposed I had enough, yet, though I had been trying
+to teach the young Hindi that the Musungu was not a fool, nor blind
+to his pilfering tricks, though the 3,500 doti were all spent;
+though I had only obtained one hundred and thirty pagazis at 25
+doti each, which in the aggregate amounted to 3,200 doti: Soor
+Hadji Palloo's bill was $1,400 cash extra.  His plea was that he
+had furnished Ulyah clothes for Muhongo 240 doti, equal in value to
+960 of my doti, that the money was spent in ferry pice, in
+presents to chiefs of caravans of tents, guns, red broad cloth, in
+presents to people on the Mrima (coast) to induce them to hunt up
+pagazis.  Upon this exhibition of most ruthless cheating I waxed
+indignant, and declared to him that if he did not run over his bill
+and correct it, he should go without a pice.
+
+But before the bill could be put into proper shape, my words,
+threats, and promises falling heedlessly on a stony brain, a man,
+Kanjee by name, from the store of Tarya Topan, of Zanzibar, had to
+come over, when the bill was finally reduced to $738.  Without any
+disrespect to Tarya Topan, I am unable to decide which is the most
+accomplished rascal, Kanjee, or young Soor Hadji Palloo; in the
+words of a white man who knows them both, "there is not the
+splitting of a straw between them." Kanjee is deep and sly, Soor
+Hadji Palloo is bold and incorrigible.  But peace be to them both,
+may their shaven heads never be covered with the troublous crown
+I wore at Bagamoyo!
+
+My dear friendly reader, do not think, if I speak out my mind in
+this or in any other chapter upon matters seemingly trivial and
+unimportant, that seeming such they should be left unmentioned.
+Every tittle related is a fact, and to knew facts is to receive
+knowledge.
+
+How could I ever recite my experience to you if I did not enter
+upon these miserable details, which sorely distract the stranger
+upon his first arrival?  Had I been a Government official, I had
+but wagged my finger and my quota of pagazis had been furnished
+me within a week; but as an individual arriving without the graces
+of official recognition, armed with no Government influence, I had
+to be patient, bide my time, and chew the cud of irritation
+quietly, but the bread I ate was not all sour, as this was.
+
+The white men, Farquhar and Shaw, were kept steadily at work upon
+water-proof tents of hemp canvas, for I perceived, by the
+premonitory showers of rain that marked the approach of the Masika
+that an ordinary tent of light cloth would subject myself to damp
+and my goods to mildew, and while there was time to rectify all
+errors that had crept into my plans through ignorance or over
+haste, I thought it was not wise to permit things to rectify
+themselves.  Now that I have returned uninjured in health, though
+I have suffered the attacks of twenty-three fevers within the short
+space of thirteen months; I must confess I owe my life, first, to
+the mercy of God; secondly, to the enthusiasm for my work, which
+animated me from the beginning to the end; thirdly, to having
+never ruined my constitution by indulgence in vice and
+intemperance; fourthly, to the energy of my nature; fifthly, to
+a native hopefulness which never died; and, sixthly, to having
+furnished myself with a capacious water and damp proof canvas
+house.  And here, if my experience may be of value, I would
+suggest that travellers, instead of submitting their better
+judgment to the caprices of a tent-maker, who will endeavour to
+pass off a handsomely made fabric of his own, which is unsuited
+to all climes, to use his own judgment, and get the best and
+strongest that money will buy.  In the end it will prove the
+cheapest, and perhaps be the means of saving his life.
+
+On one point I failed,, and lest new and young travellers fall into
+the same error which marred much of my enjoyment, this paragraph
+is written.  One must be extremely careful in his choice of
+weapons, whether for sport or defence.  A traveller should have at
+least three different kinds of guns.  One should be a fowling-piece,
+the second should be a double-barrelled rifle, No. 10 or 12, the
+third should be a magazine-rifle, for defence.  For the fowling-piece
+I would suggest No. 12 bore, with barrels at least four feet in length.
+For the rifle for larger game, I would point out, with due deference
+to old sportsmen, of course, that the best guns for African game
+are the English Lancaster and Reilly rifles; and for a fighting
+weapon, I maintain that the best yet invented is the American
+Winchester repeating rifle, or the "sixteen, shooter" as it is
+called, supplied with the London Eley's ammunition.  If I suggest
+as a fighting weapon the American Winchester, I do not mean that
+the traveller need take it for the purpose of offence, but as
+the beat means of efficient defence, to save his own life against
+African banditti, when attacked, a thing likely to happen any time.
+
+I met a young man soon after returning from the interior, who
+declared his conviction that the "Express," rifle was the most
+perfect weapon ever invented to destroy African game.  Very
+possibly the young man may be right, and that the "Express "
+rifle is all he declares it to be, but he had never practised with
+it against African game, and as I had never tried it, I could not
+combat his assertion: but I could relate my experiences with weapons,
+having all the penetrating powers of the "Express," and could
+inform him that though the bullets penetrated through the animals,
+they almost always failed to bring down the game at the first fire.
+On the other hand, I could inform him, that during the time I
+travelled with Dr. Livingstone the Doctor lent me his heavy Reilly
+rifle with which I seldom failed to bring an animal or two home
+to the camp, and that I found the Fraser shell answer all purposes
+for which it was intended.  The feats related by Capt. Speke and
+Sir Samuel Baker are no longer matter of wonderment to the young
+]sportsman, when he has a Lancaster or a Reilly in his hand.
+After very few trials he can imitate them, if not excel their
+Leeds, provided he has a steady hand.  And it is to forward this
+end that this paragraph is written.  African game require
+"bone-crushers;" for any ordinary carbine possesses sufficient
+penetrative qualities, yet has not he disabling qualities which
+a gun must possess to be useful in the hands of an African explorer.
+
+I had not been long at Bagamoyo before I went over to Mussoudi's
+camp, to visit the "Livingstone caravan" which the British Consul
+had despatched on the first day of November, 1870, to the relief of
+Livingstone.  The number of packages was thirty-five, which required
+as many men to convey them to Unyanyembe.  The men chosen to escort
+this caravan were composed of Johannese and Wahiyow, seven in number.
+Out of the seven, four were slaves.  They lived in clover here--
+thoughtless of the errand they had been sent upon, and careless of
+the consequences.  What these men were doing at Bagamoyo all this
+time I never could conceive, except indulging their own vicious
+propensities.  It would be nonsense to say there were no pagazis;
+because I know there were at least fifteen caravans which had
+started for the interior since the Ramadan (December 15th, 1870).
+Yet Livingstone's caravan had arrived at this little town of Bagamoyo
+November 2nd, and here it had been lying until the 10th February,
+in all, 100 days, for lack of the limited number of thirty-five
+pagazis, a number that might be procured within two days through
+consular influence.
+
+Bagamoyo has a most enjoyable climate.  It is far preferable in
+every sense to that of Zanzibar.  We were able to sleep in the
+open air, and rose refreshed and healthy each morning, to enjoy
+our matutinal bath in the sea; and by the time the sun had risen
+we were engaged in various preparations for our departure for the
+interior.  Our days were enlivened by visits from the Arabs who
+were also bound for Unyanyembe; by comical scenes in the camp;
+sometimes by court-martials held on the refractory; by a
+boxing-match between Farquhar and Shaw, necessitating my prudent
+interference when they waxed too wroth; by a hunting excursion
+now and then to the Kingani plain and river; by social
+conversation with the old Jemadar and his band of Baluches, who
+were never tired of warning me that the Masika was at hand, and of
+advising me that my best course was to hurry on before the season
+for travelling expired.
+
+Among the employees with the Expedition were two Hindi and two
+Goanese.  They had conceived the idea that the African interior
+was an El Dorado, the ground of which was strewn over with ivory
+tusks, and they had clubbed together; while their imaginations
+were thus heated, to embark in a little enterprise of their own.
+Their names were Jako, Abdul Kader, Bunder Salaam, and Aranselar;
+Jako engaged in my service, as carpenter and general help; Abdul
+Kader as a tailor, Bunder Salaam as cook, and Aranselar as chief
+butler.
+
+But Aranselar, with an intuitive eye, foresaw that I was likely to
+prove a vigorous employer, and while there was yet time he devoted
+most of it to conceive how it were possible to withdraw from the
+engagement.  He received permission upon asking for it to go to
+Zanzibar to visit his friends.  Two days afterwards I was informed
+he had blown his right eye out, and received a medical confirmation
+of the fact, and note of the extent of the injury, from Dr.
+Christie, the physician to His Highness Seyd Burghash.  His
+compatriots I imagined were about planning the same thing, but a
+peremptory command to abstain from such folly, issued after they
+had received their advance-pay, sufficed to check any sinister
+designs they may have formed.
+
+A groom was caught stealing from the bales, one night, and the
+chase after him into the country until he vanished out of sight
+into the jungle, was one of the most agreeable diversions which
+occurred to wear away the interval employed in preparing for the
+march.
+
+I had now despatched four caravans into the interior, and the
+fifth, which was to carry the boats and boxes, personal luggage,
+and a few cloth and bead loads, was ready to be led by myself.
+The following is the order of departure of the caravans.
+
+1871. Feb. 6.--Expedition arrived at Bagamoyo.
+
+1871. Feb. 18.--First caravan departs with twenty-four pagazis and
+three soldiers.
+
+1871. Feb. 21.--Second caravan departs with twenty-eight pagazis,
+two chiefs, and two soldiers.
+
+1871. Feb. 25.--Third caravan departs with twenty-two pagazis,
+ten donkeys, one white man, one cook, and three soldiers.
+
+1871. March. 11.--Fourth caravan departs with fifty-five pagazis,
+two chiefs, and three soldiers.
+
+1871. March. 21.--Fifth caravan departs with twenty-eight pagazis,
+twelve soldiers, two white men, one tailor, one cook, one interpreter,
+one gun-bearer, seventeen asses, two horses, and one dog.
+
+Total number, inclusive of all souls, comprised in caravans
+connected with the "New York Herald' Expedition," 192.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.  THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA.
+
+
+Leaving Bagamoyo for the interior.--Constructing a Bridge.--Our
+first troubles.--Shooting Hippopotami.--A first view of the Game
+Land.--Anticipating trouble with the Wagogo.--The dreadful poison-
+flies.--Unlucky adventures while hunting.--The cunning chief of
+Kingaru.--Sudden death of my two horses.--A terrible experience.--
+The city of the "Lion Lord."
+
+
+On the 21st of March, exactly seventy-three days after my arrival
+at Zanzibar, the fifth caravan, led by myself, left the town of
+Bagamoyo for our first journey westward, with "Forward!" for its
+mot du guet.  As the kirangozi unrolled the American flag, and put
+himself at the head of the caravan, and the pagazis, animals,
+soldiers, and idlers were lined for the march, we bade a long
+farewell to the dolce far niente of civilised life, to the blue
+ocean, and to its open road to home, to the hundreds of dusky
+spectators who were there to celebrate our departure with
+repeated salvoes of musketry.
+
+Our caravan is composed of twenty-eight pagazis, including the
+kirangozi, or guide; twelve soldiers under Capt. Mbarak Bombay,
+in charge of seventeen donkeys and their loads; Selim, my
+interpreter, in charge of the donkey and cart and its load; one
+cook and sub, who is also to be tailor and ready hand for all, and
+leads the grey horse; Shaw, once mate of a ship, now transformed
+into rearguard and overseer for the caravan, who is mounted on a
+good riding-donkey, and wearing a canoe-like tepee and sea-boots;
+and lastly, on, the splendid bay horse presented to me by Mr.
+Goodhue, myself, called Bana Mkuba, "the "big master," by my
+people--the vanguard, the reporter, the thinker, and leader of
+the Expedition.
+
+Altogether the Expedition numbers on the day of departure three
+white men, twenty-three soldiers, four supernumeraries, four
+chiefs, and one hundred and fifty-three pagazis, twenty-seven
+donkeys, and one cart, conveying cloth, beads, and wire,
+boat-fixings, tents, cooking utensils and dishes, medicine, powder,
+small shot, musket-balls, and metallic cartridges; instruments and
+small necessaries, such as soap, sugar, tea, coffee, Liebig's
+extract of meat, pemmican, candles, &c., which make a total of 153
+loads.  The weapons of defence which the Expedition possesses
+consist of one double-barrel breech-loading gun, smooth bore; one
+American Winchester rifle, or "sixteen-shooter;" one Henry rifle,
+or "sixteen-shooter;" two Starr's breech-loaders, one Jocelyn
+breech-loader, one elephant rifle, carrying balls eight to the
+pound; two breech-loading revolvers, twenty-four muskets (flint
+locks), six single-barrelled pistols, one battle-axe, two swords,
+two daggers (Persian kummers, purchased at Shiraz by myself),
+one boar-spear, two American axes 4 lbs. each, twenty-four hatchets,
+and twenty-four butcher-knives.
+
+
+The Expedition has been fitted with care; whatever it needed was not
+stinted; everything was provided.  Nothing was done too hurriedly,
+yet everything was purchased, manufactured, collected, and compounded
+with the utmost despatch consistent with efficiency and means.
+Should it fail of success in its errand of rapid transit to Ujiji
+and back, it must simply happen from an accident which could not
+be controlled.  So much for the _personnel_ of the Expedition and
+its purpose, until its _point de mire_ be reached.
+
+We left Bagamoyo the attraction of all the curious, with much eclat,
+and defiled up a narrow lane shaded almost to twilight by the dense
+umbrage of two parallel hedges of mimosas.  We were all in the
+highest spirits.  The soldiers sang, the kirangozi lifted his voice
+into a loud bellowing note, and fluttered the American flag, which
+told all on-lookers, "Lo, a Musungu's caravan!" and my heart, I
+thought, palpitated much too quickly for the sober face of a leader.
+But I could not check it; the enthusiasm of youth still clung to
+me--despite my travels; my pulses bounded with the full glow of
+staple health; behind me were the troubles which had harassed me
+for over two months.  With that dishonest son of a Hindi, Soor
+Hadji Palloo, I had said my last word; of the blatant rabble,
+of Arabs, Banyans, and Baluches I had taken my last look;  with
+the Jesuits of the French Mission I had exchanged farewells,
+and before me beamed the sun of promise as he sped towards the
+Occident.  Loveliness glowed around me.  I saw fertile fields,
+riant vegetation, strange trees--I heard the cry of cricket
+and pee-wit, and sibilant sound of many insects, all of which
+seemed to tell me, "At last you are started."  What could I
+do but lift my face toward the pure-glowing sky, and cry,
+"God be thanked!"
+
+The first camp, Shamba Gonera, we arrived at in 1 hour 30 minutes,
+equal to 3 1/4 miles.  This first, or "little journey," was
+performed very well, "considering," as the Irishman says.
+The boy Selim upset the cart not more than three times.  Zaidi,
+the soldier, only once let his donkey, which carried one bag
+of my clothes and a box of ammunition, lie in a puddle of
+black water.  The clothes have to be re-washed; the
+ammunition-box, thanks to my provision, was waterproof.
+Kamna perhaps knew the art of donkey-driving, but, overjoyful
+at the departure, had sung himself into oblivion of the
+difficulties with which an animal of the pure asinine breed has
+naturally to contend against, such as not knowing the right road,
+and inability to resist the temptation of straying into the depths
+of a manioc field; and the donkey, ignorant of the custom in vogue
+amongst ass-drivers of flourishing sticks before an animal's nose,
+and misunderstanding the direction in which he was required to go,
+ran off at full speed along an opposite road, until his pack got
+unbalanced, and he was fain to come to the earth.  But these
+incidents were trivial, of no importance, and natural to the first
+"little journey" in East Africa.
+
+The soldiers' point of character leaked out just a little.  Bombay
+turned out to be honest and trusty, but slightly disposed to be
+dilatory.  Uledi did more talking than work; while the runaway
+Ferajji and the useless-handed Mabruki Burton turned out to be true
+men and staunch, carrying loads the sight of which would have caused
+the strong-limbed hamals of Stamboul to sigh.
+
+The saddles were excellent, surpassing expectation.  The strong
+hemp canvas bore its one hundred and fifty-pounds' burden with the
+strength of bull hide, and the loading and unloading of
+miscellaneous baggage was performed with systematic despatch.  In
+brief, there was nothing to regret--the success of the journey
+proved our departure to be anything but premature.
+
+The next three days were employed in putting the finishing touches
+to our preparations for the long land journey and our precautions
+against the Masika, which was now ominously near, and in settling
+accounts.
+
+Shamba Gonera means Gonera's Field.  Gonera is a wealthy Indian
+widow, well disposed towards the Wasungu (whites).  She exports
+much cloth, beads, and wire into the far interior, and imports
+in return much ivory.  Her house is after the model of the town
+houses, with long sloping roof and projecting eaves, affording a
+cool shade, under which the pagazis love to loiter.  On its
+southern and eastern side stretch the cultivated fields which
+supply Bagamoyo with the staple grain, matama, of East Africa;
+on the left grow Indian corn, and muhogo, a yam-like root of
+whitish colour, called by some manioc; when dry, it is ground
+and compounded into cakes similar to army slapjacks.  On the
+north, just behind the house, winds a black quagmire, a
+sinuous hollow, which in its deepest parts always contains
+water--the muddy home of the brake-and-rush-loving "kiboko"
+or hippopotamus.  Its banks, crowded with dwarf fan-palm,
+tall water-reeds, acacias, and tiger-grass, afford shelter to
+numerous aquatic birds, pelicans, &c.  After following a
+course north-easterly, it conflows with the Kingani, which,
+at distance of four miles from Gonera's country-house; bends
+eastward into the sea.  To the west, after a mile of cultivation,
+fall and recede in succession the sea-beach of old in lengthy
+parallel waves, overgrown densely with forest grass and marsh
+reeds.  On the spines of these land-swells flourish ebony,
+calabash, and mango.
+
+"Sofari--sofari leo!  Pakia, pakia!"--" A journey--a journey to
+day!  Set out!--set out!" rang the cheery voice of the kirangozi,
+echoed by that of my servant Selim, on the morning of the fourth
+day, which was fixed for our departure in earnest.  As I hurried
+my men to their work, and lent a hand with energy to drop the tents,
+I mentally resolved that, if my caravans a should give me clear
+space, Unyanyembe should be our resting-place before three months
+expired.  By 6 A.M. our early breakfast was despatched, and the
+donkeys and pagazis were defiling from Camp Gonera.  Even at this
+early hour, and in this country place, there was quite a collection
+of curious natives, to whom we gave the parting "Kwaheri " with
+sincerity.  My bay horse was found to be invaluable for the
+service of a quarter-master of a transport-train; for to such was
+I compelled to compare myself.  I could stay behind until the last
+donkey had quitted the camp, and, by a few minutes' gallop, I could
+put myself at the head, leaving Shaw to bring up the rear.
+
+The road was a mere footpath, and led over a soil which, though
+sandy, was of surprising fertility, producing grain and vegetables
+a hundredfold, the sowing and planting of which was done in the
+most unskilful manner.  In their fields, at heedless labor, were
+men and women in the scantiest costumes, compared to which Adam
+and Eve, in their fig-tree apparel, must have been _en grande
+tenue_.  We passed them with serious faces, while they laughed and
+giggled, and pointed their index fingers at this and that, which to
+them seemed so strange and bizarre.
+
+In about half an hour we had left the tall matama and fields of
+water-melons, cucumbers, and manioc; and, crossing a reedy
+slough, were in an open forest of ebony and calabash.  In its
+depths are deer in plentiful numbers, and at night it is visited by
+the hippopotami of the Kingani for the sake of its grass.  In
+another hour we had emerged from the woods, and were looking down
+upon the broad valley of the Kingani, and a scene presented itself
+so utterly different from what my foolish imagination had drawn,
+that I felt quite relieved by the pleasing disappointment.  Here
+was a valley stretching four miles east and west, and about
+eight miles north and south, left with the richest soil to its own
+wild growth of grass--which in civilization would have been a most
+valuable meadow for the rearing of cattle--invested as it was by
+dense forests, darkening the horizon at all points of the compass,
+and folded in by tree-clad ridges.
+
+At the sound of our caravan the red antelope bounded away to our
+right and the left, and frogs hushed their croak.  The sun shone
+hot, and while traversing the valley we experienced a little of
+its real African fervour.  About half way across we came to a
+sluice of stagnant water which, directly in the road of the
+caravan, had settled down into an oozy pond.  The pagazis crossed
+a hastily-constructed bridge, thrown up a long time ago by some
+Washensi Samaritans.  It was an extraordinary affair; rugged tree
+limbs resting on very unsteady forked piles, and it had evidently
+tested the patience of many a loaded Mnyamwezi, as it did those
+porters of our caravan.  Our weaker animals were unloaded, the
+puddle between Bagamoyo and Genera having taught us prudence.
+But this did not occasion much delay; the men worked smartly
+under Shaw's supervision.
+
+The turbid Kingani, famous for its hippopotami, was reached in a
+short time, and we began to thread the jungle along its right bank
+until we were halted point-blank by a narrow sluice having an
+immeasurable depth of black mud.  The difficulty presented by
+this was very grave, though its breadth was barely eight feet;
+the donkeys, and least of all the horses, could not be made to
+traverse two poles like our biped carriers, neither could they be
+driven into the sluice, where they would quickly founder.  The
+only available way of crossing it in safety was by means of a
+bridge, to endure in this conservative land for generations as the
+handiwork of the Wasungu.  So we set to work, there being no help
+for it, with American axes--the first of their kind the strokes of
+which ever rang in this part of the world--to build a bridge.  Be
+sure it was made quickly, for where the civilized white is found,
+a difficulty must vanish.  The bridge was composed of six stout
+trees thrown across, over these were laid crosswise fifteen pack
+saddles, covered again with a thick layer of grass.  All the
+animals crossed it safely, and then for a third time that morning
+the process of wading was performed.  The Kingani flowed northerly
+here, and our course lay down its right bank.  A half mile in that
+direction through a jungle of giant reeds and extravagant climbers
+brought us to the ferry, where the animals had to be again
+unloaded--verily, I wished when I saw its deep muddy waters that I
+possessed the power of Moses with his magic rod, or what would have
+answered my purpose as well, Aladdin's ring, for then I could have
+found myself and party on the opposite side without further trouble;
+but not having either of these gifts I issued orders for an immediate
+crossing, for it was ill wishing sublime things before this most
+mundane prospect.
+
+Kingwere, the canoe paddler, espying us from his brake covert, on
+the opposite side, civilly responded to our halloos, and brought
+his huge hollowed tree skilfully over the whirling eddies of the
+river to where we stood waiting for him.  While one party loaded
+the canoe with our goods, others got ready a long rape to fasten
+around the animals' necks, wherewith to haul them through the
+river to the other bank.  After seeing the work properly
+commenced, I sat down on a condemned canoe to amuse myself with the
+hippopotami by peppering their thick skulls with my No. 12
+smooth-bore.  The Winchester rifle (calibre 44), a present from the
+Hon. Edward Joy Morris--our minister at Constantinople--did no more
+than slightly tap them, causing about as much injury as a boy's
+sling; it was perfect in its accuracy of fire, for ten times in
+succession I struck the tops of their heads between the ears.  One
+old fellow, with the look of a sage, was tapped close to the right
+ear by one of these bullets.  Instead of submerging himself as
+others had done he coolly turned round his head as if to ask, "Why
+this waste of valuable cartridges on us?"  The response to the mute
+inquiry of his sageship was an ounce-and-a-quarter bullet from the
+smooth-bore, which made him bellow with pain, and in a few moments
+he rose up again, tumbling in his death agonies.  As his groans
+were so piteous, I refrained from a useless sacrifice of life,
+and left the amphibious horde in peace.
+
+A little knowledge concerning these uncouth inmates of the African
+waters was gained even during the few minutes we were delayed at
+the ferry.  When undisturbed by foreign sounds, they congregate
+in shallow water on the sand bars, with the fore half of their
+bodies exposed to the warm sunshine, and are in appearance,
+when thus somnolently reposing, very like a herd of enormous
+swine.  When startled by the noise of an intruder, they plunge
+hastily into the depths, lashing the waters into a yellowish
+foam, and scatter themselves below the surface, when presently
+the heads of a few reappear, snorting the water from their
+nostrils, to take a fresh breath and a cautious scrutiny around
+them; when thus, we see but their ears, forehead, eyes and
+nostrils, and as they hastily submerge again it requires a steady
+wrist and a quick hand to shoot them.  I have heard several
+comparisons made of their appearance while floating in this
+manner: some Arabs told me before I had seen them that they looked
+like dead trees carried down the river; others, who in some
+country had seen hogs, thought they resembled them, but to my
+mind they look more like horses when swimming their curved necks
+and pointed ears, their wide eyes and expanded nostrils, favor
+greatly this comparison.
+
+At night they seek the shore, and wander several miles over the
+country, luxuriating among its rank grasses.  To within four miles
+of the town of Bagamoyo (the Kingani is eight miles distant) their
+wide tracks are seen.  Frequently, if not disturbed by the
+startling human voice, they make a raid on the rich corn-stalks of
+the native cultivators, and a dozen of them will in a few minutes
+make a frightful havoc in a large field of this plant.
+Consequently, we were not surprised, while delayed at the ferry,
+to hear the owners of the corn venting loud halloos, like the
+rosy-cheeked farmer boys in England when scaring the crows away
+from the young wheat.
+
+The caravan in the meanwhile had crossed safely--bales, baggage,
+donkeys, and men.  I had thought to have camped on the bank, so as
+to amuse myself with shooting antelope, and also for the sake of
+procuring their meat, in order to save my goats, of which I had a
+number constituting my live stock of provisions; but, thanks to
+the awe and dread which my men entertained of the hippopotami, I
+was hurried on to the outpost of the Baluch garrison at Bagamoyo,
+a small village called Kikoka, distant four miles from the river.
+
+The western side of the river was a considerable improvement upon
+the eastern.  The plain, slowly heaving upwards, as smoothly as
+the beach of a watering-place, for the distance of a mile, until it
+culminated in a gentle and rounded ridge, presented none of those
+difficulties which troubled us on the other side.  There were none
+of those cataclysms of mire and sloughs of black mud and over-tall
+grasses, none of that miasmatic jungle with its noxious emissions;
+it was just such a scene as one may find before an English
+mansion--a noble expanse of lawn and sward, with boscage sufficient
+to agreeably diversify it. After traversing the open plain, the
+road led through a grove of young ebony trees, where guinea-fowls
+and a hartebeest were seen; it then wound, with all the
+characteristic eccentric curves of a goat-path, up and down a
+succession of land-waves crested by the dark green foliage of the
+mango, and the scantier and lighter-coloured leaves of the enormous
+calabash.  The depressions were filled with jungle of more or less
+density, while here and there opened glades, shadowed even during
+noon by thin groves of towering trees.  At our approach fled in
+terror flocks of green pigeons, jays, ibis, turtledoves, golden
+pheasants, quails and moorhens, with crows and hawks, while now
+and then a solitary pelican winged its way to the distance.
+
+Nor was this enlivening prospect without its pairs of antelope, and
+monkeys which hopped away like Australian kangaroos; these latter
+were of good size, with round bullet heads, white breasts, and long
+tails tufted at the end.
+
+We arrived at Kikoka by  5 P.m., having loaded and unloaded our
+pack animals four times, crossing one deep puddle, a mud sluice,
+and a river, and performed a journey of eleven miles.
+
+The settlement of Kikoka is a collection of straw huts; not built
+after any architectural style, but after a bastard form, invented
+by indolent settlers from the Mrima and Zanzibar for the purpose
+of excluding as much sunshine as possible from the eaves and
+interior.  A sluice and some wells provide them with water, which
+though sweet is not particularly wholesome or appetizing, owing to
+the large quantities of decayed matter which is washed into it by
+the rains, and is then left to corrupt in it. A weak effort has
+been made to clear the neighbourhood for providing a place for
+cultivation, but to the dire task of wood-chopping and
+jungle-clearing the settlers prefer occupying an open glade, which
+they clear of grass, so as to be able to hoe up two or three
+inches of soil, into which they cast their seed, confident of
+return.
+
+The next day was a halt at Kikoka; the fourth caravan,
+consisting solely of Wanyamwezi, proving a sore obstacle to a
+rapid advance.  Maganga, its chief, devised several methods of
+extorting more cloth and presents from me, he having cost already
+more than any three chiefs together; but his efforts were of no
+avail further than obtaining promises of reward if he would hurry
+on to Unyanyembe so that I might find my road clear.
+
+On the 2(7?)th, the Wanyamwezi having started, we broke camp soon
+after at 7 am.  The country was of the same nature as that lying
+between the Kingani and Kikokaa park land, attractive and beautiful
+in every feature.
+
+I rode in advance to secure meat should a chance present itself,
+but not the shadow of vert or venison did I see.  Ever in our
+front--westerly--rolled the land-waves, now rising, now subsiding,
+parallel one with the other, like a ploughed field many times
+magnified.  Each ridge had its knot of jungle or its thin combing
+of heavily foliaged trees, until we arrived close to Rosako, our
+next halting place, when the monotonous wavure of the land
+underwent a change, breaking into independent hummocks clad with
+dense jungle.  On one of these, veiled by an impenetrable jungle
+of thorny acacia, rested Rosako; girt round by its natural
+fortification, neighbouring another village to the north of it
+similarly protected.  Between them sank a valley extremely
+fertile and bountiful in its productions, bisected by a small
+stream, which serves as a drain to the valley or low hills
+surrounding it.
+
+Rosako is the frontier village of Ukwere, while Kikoka is the
+north-western extremity of Uzaramo.  We entered this village, and
+occupied its central portion with our tents and animals.  A
+kitanda, or square light bedstead, without valance, fringe, or any
+superfluity whatever, but nevertheless quite as comfortable as
+with them, was brought to my tent for my use by the village
+chief.  The animals were, immediately after being unloaded,
+driven out to feed, and the soldiers to a man set to work to pile
+the baggage up, lest the rain, which during the Masika season
+always appears imminent, might cause irreparable damage.
+
+Among other experiments which I was about to try in Africa was
+that of a good watch-dog on any unmannerly people who would
+insist upon coming into my tent at untimely hours and endangering
+valuables.  Especially did I wish to try the effect of its bark
+on the mighty Wagogo, who, I was told by certain Arabs, would
+lift the door of the tent and enter whether you wished them or not;
+who would chuckle at the fear they inspired, and say to you,
+"Hi, hi, white man, I never saw the like of you before; are there
+many more like you? where do you come from?"  Also would they
+take hold of your watch and ask you with a cheerful curiosity,
+"What is this for, white man?" to which you of course would reply
+that it was to tell you the hour and minute.  But the Mgogo, proud
+of his prowess, and more unmannerly than a brute, would answer you
+with a snort of insult. I thought of a watch-dog, and procured a
+good one at Bombay not only as a faithful companion, but to
+threaten the heels of just such gentry.
+
+But soon after our arrival at Rosako it was found that the dog,
+whose name was "Omar," given him from his Turkish origin, was
+missing; he had strayed away from the soldiers during a
+rain-squall and had got lost.  I despatched Mabruki Burton back to
+Kikoka to search for him.  On the following morning, just as we
+were about to leave Rosako, the faithful fellow returned with the
+lost dog, having found him at Kikoka.
+
+Previous to our departure on the morning after this, Maganga, chief
+of the fourth caravan, brought me the unhappy report that three of
+his pagazis were sick, and he would like to have some "dowa"--
+medicine.  Though not a doctor, or in any way connected with the
+profession, I had a well-supplied medicine chest--without which no
+traveller in Africa could live--for just such a contingency as was
+now present.  On visiting Maganga's sick men, I found one suffering
+from inflammation of the lungs, another from the mukunguru (African
+intermittent).  They all imagined themselves about to die, and
+called loudly for "Mama!" "Mama!" though they were all grown men.
+It was evident that the fourth caravan could not stir that day, so
+leaving word with Magauga to hurry after me as soon as possible, I
+issued orders for the march of my own.
+
+Excepting in the neighbourhood of the villages which we have passed
+there were no traces of cultivation.  The country extending
+between the several stations is as much a wilderness as the desert
+of Sahara, though it possesses a far more pleasing aspect.  Indeed,
+had the first man at the time of the Creation gazed at his world
+and perceived it of the beauty which belongs to this part of
+Africa, he would have had no cause of complaint.  In the deep
+thickets, set like islets amid a sea of grassy verdure, he would
+have found shelter from the noonday heat, and a safe retirement
+for himself and spouse during the awesome darkness.  In the morning
+he could have walked forth on the sloping sward, enjoyed its
+freshness, and performed his ablutions in one of the many small
+streams flowing at its foot.  His garden of fruit-trees is all that
+is required; the noble forests, deep and cool, are round about
+him, and in their shade walk as many animals as one can desire.
+For days and days let a man walk in any direction, north, south,
+east, and west, and he will behold the same scene.
+
+Earnestly as I wished to hurry on to Unyanyembe, still a
+heart-felt anxiety about the arrival of my goods carried by the
+fourth caravan, served as a drag upon me and before my caravan
+had marched nine miles my anxiety had risen to the highest pitch,
+and caused me to order a camp there and then.  The place selected
+for it was near a long straggling sluice, having an abundance of
+water during the rainy season, draining as it does two extensive
+slopes.  No sooner had we pitched our camp, built a boma of
+thorny acacia, and other tree branches, by stacking them round
+our camp, and driven our animals to grass; than we were made aware
+of the formidable number and variety of the insect tribe, which
+for a time was another source of anxiety, until a diligent
+examination of the several species dispelled it.
+
+As it was a most interesting hunt which I instituted for the
+several specimens of the insects, I here append the record of it
+for what it is worth.  My object in obtaining these specimens was
+to determine whether the genus _Glossina morsitans_ of the
+naturalist, or the tsetse (sometimes called setse) of Livingstone,
+Vardon, and Gumming, said to be deadly to horses, was amongst
+them.  Up to this date I had been nearly two months in East
+Africa, and had as yet seen no tsetse; and my horses, instead of
+becoming emaciated--for such is one of the symptoms of a tsetse
+bite--had considerably improved in condition.  There were three
+different species of flies which sought shelter in my tent, which,
+unitedly, kept up a continual chorus of sounds--one performed the
+basso profondo, another a tenor, and the third a weak contralto.
+The first emanated from a voracious and fierce fly, an inch long,
+having a ventral capacity for blood quite astonishing.
+
+This larger fly was the one chosen for the first inspection,
+which was of the intensest. I permitted one to alight on my
+flannel pyjamas, which I wore while en deshabille in camp.
+No sooner had he alighted than his posterior was raised, his
+head lowered, and his weapons, consisting of four hair-like
+styles, unsheathed from the proboscis-like bag which concealed
+them, and immediately I felt pain like that caused by a dexterous
+lancet-cut or the probe of a fine needle.  I permitted him to
+gorge himself, though my patience and naturalistic interest were
+sorely tried.  I saw his abdominal parts distend with the plenitude
+of the repast until it had swollen to three times its former
+shrunken girth, when he flew away of his own accord laden with blood.
+On rolling up my flannel pyjamas to see the fountain whence the
+fly had drawn the fluid, I discovered it to be a little above the
+left knee, by a crimson bead resting over the incision.  After
+wiping the blood the wound was similar to that caused by a deep
+thrust of a fine needle, but all pain had vanished with the
+departure of the fly.
+
+Having caught a specimen of this fly, I next proceeded to institute
+a comparison between it and the tsetse, as described by Dr.
+Livingstone on pp. 56-57, `Missionary Travels and Researches in
+South Africa' (Murray's edition of 1868).  The points of
+disagreement are many, and such as to make it entirely improbable
+that this fly is the true tsetse, though my men unanimously
+stated that its bite was fatal to horses as well as to donkeys.
+A descriptive abstract of the tsetse would read thus: "Not much
+larger than a common house-fly, nearly of the same brown colour as
+the honey-bee.  After-part of the body has yellow bars across it.
+It has a peculiar buzz, and its bite is death to the horse, ox,
+and dog.  On man the bite has no effect, neither has it on wild
+animals.  When allowed to feed on the hand, it inserts the middle
+prong of three portions into which the proboscis divides, it then
+draws the prong out a little way, and it assumes a crimson colour
+as the mandibles come into brisk operation; a slight itching
+irritation follows the bite."
+
+The fly which I had under inspection is called mabunga by the
+natives.  It is much larger than the common housefly, fully a
+third larger than the common honey-bee, and its colour more
+distinctly marked; its head is black, with a greenish gloss to
+it; the after-part of the body is marked by a white line running
+lengthwise from its junction with the trunk, and on each side of
+this white line are two other lines, one of a crimson colour, the
+other of a light brown.  As for its buzz, there is no peculiarity
+in it, it might be mistaken for that of a honey-bee.  When caught
+it made desperate efforts to get away, but never attempted to bite.
+This fly, along with a score of others, attacked my grey horse,
+and bit it so sorely in the legs that they appeared as if bathed
+in blood.  Hence, I might have been a little vengeful if, with more
+than the zeal of an entomologist, I caused it to disclose whatever
+peculiarities its biting parts possessed.
+
+In order to bring this fly as life-like as possible before my
+readers, I may compare its head to most tiny miniature of an
+elephant's, because it has a black proboscis and a pair of horny
+antennae, which in colour and curve resemble tusks.  The black
+proboscis, however, the simply a hollow sheath, which encloses,
+when not in the act of biting, four reddish and sharp lancets.
+Under the microscope these four lancets differ in thickness, two
+are very thick, the third is slender, but the fourth, of an opal
+colour and almost transparent, is exceedingly fine.  This last must
+be the sucker.  When the fly is about to wound, the two horny
+antennae are made to embrace the part, the lancets are unsheathed,
+and on the instant the incision is performed.  This I consider
+to be the African "horse-fly.'
+
+The second fly, which sang the tenor notes more nearly resembled
+in size and description the tsetse.  It was exceedingly nimble,
+and it occupied three soldiers nearly an hour to capture a specimen;
+and, when it was finally caught, it stung most ravenously the hand,
+and never ceased its efforts to attack until it was pinned through.
+It had three or four white marks across the after-part of its body;
+but the biting parts of this fly consisted of two black antennae
+and an opal coloured style, which folded away under the neck.  When
+about to bite, this style was shot out straight, and the antennae
+embraced it closely.  After death the fly lost its distinctive white
+marks.  Only one of this species did we see at this camp.  The third
+fly, called "chufwa," pitched a weak alto-crescendo note, was a
+third larger than the house fly, and had long wings.  If this insect
+sang the feeblest note, it certainly did the most work, and
+inflicted the most injury.  Horses and donkeys streamed with blood,
+and reared and kicked through the pain.  So determined was it not
+to be driven before it obtained its fill, that it was easily
+despatched; but this dreadful enemy to cattle constantly
+increased in numbers.  The three species above named are, according
+to natives, fatal to cattle; and this may perhaps be the reason
+why such a vast expanse of first-class pasture is without domestic
+cattle of any kind, a few goats only being kept by the villagers.
+This fly I subsequently found to be the "tsetse."
+
+On the second morning, instead of proceeding, I deemed it more
+prudent to await the fourth caravan.  Burton experimented
+sufficiently for me on the promised word of the Banyans of Kaole
+and Zanzibar, and waited eleven months before he received the
+promised articles.  As I did not expect to be much over that time
+on my errand altogether, it would be ruin, absolute and irremediable,
+should I be detained at Unyanyembe so long a time by my caravan.
+Pending its arrival, I sought the pleasures of the chase.  I was
+but a tyro in hunting, I confess, though I had shot a little on the
+plains of America and Persia; yet I considered myself a fair shot,
+and on game ground, and within a reasonable proximity to game, I
+doubted not but I could bring some to camp.
+
+After a march of a mile through the tall grass of the open, we
+gained the glades between the jungles.  Unsuccessful here, after
+ever so much prying into fine hiding-places and lurking corners,
+I struck a trail well traversed by small antelope and hartebeest,
+which we followed.  It led me into a jungle, and down a watercourse
+bisecting it; but, after following it for an hour, I lost it,
+and, in endeavouring to retrace it, lost my way.  However, my
+pocket-compass stood me in good stead; and by it I steered for
+the open plain, in the centre of which stood the camp.  But it was
+terribly hard work--this of plunging through an African jungle,
+ruinous to clothes, and trying to the cuticle.  In order to travel
+quickly, I had donned a pair of flannel pyjamas, and my feet were
+encased in canvas shoes.  As might be expected, before I had gone
+a few paces a branch of the acacia horrida--only one of a
+hundred such annoyances--caught the right leg of my pyjamas at the
+knee, and ripped it almost clean off; succeeding which a stumpy
+kolquall caught me by the shoulder, and another rip was the
+inevitable consequence.  A few yards farther on, a prickly aloetic
+plant disfigured by a wide tear the other leg of my pyjamas, and
+almost immediately I tripped against a convolvulus strong as
+ratline, and was made to measure my length on a bed of thorns.
+It was on all fours, like a hound on a scent, that I was compelled
+to travel; my solar topee getting the worse for wear every minute;
+my skin getting more and more wounded; my clothes at each step
+becoming more and more tattered.  Besides these discomforts, there
+was a pungent, acrid plant which, apart from its strong odorous
+emissions, struck me smartly on the face, leaving a burning effect
+similar to cayenne; and the atmosphere, pent in by the density
+of the jungle, was hot and stifling, and the perspiration transuded
+through every pore, making my flannel tatters feel as if I had
+been through a shower.  When I had finally regained the plain, and
+could breathe free, I mentally vowed that the penetralia of an
+African jungle should not be visited by me again, save under most
+urgent necessity.
+
+The second and third day passed without any news of Maganga.
+Accordingly, Shaw and Bombay were sent to hurry him up by all
+means.  On the fourth morning Shaw and Bombay returned, followed
+by the procrastinating Maganga and his laggard people.  Questions
+only elicited an excuse that his men had been too sick, and he had
+feared to tax their strength before they were quite equal to stand
+the fatigue.  Moreover he suggested that as they would be compelled
+to stay one day more at the camp, I might push on to Kingaru and
+camp there, until his arrival.  Acting upon which suggestion I broke
+camp and started for Kingaru, distant five miles.
+
+On this march the land was more broken, and the caravan first
+encountered jungle, which gave considerable trouble to our cart.
+Pisolitic limestone cropped out in boulders and sheets, and we
+began to imagine ourselves approaching healthy highlands, and as
+if to give confirmation to the thought, to the north and north-west
+loomed the purple cones of Udoe, and topmost of all Dilima Peak,
+about 1,500 feet in height above the sea level.  But soon after
+sinking into a bowl-like valley, green with tall corn, the road
+slightly deviated from north-west to west, the country still
+rolling before us in wavy undulations.
+
+In one of the depressions between these lengthy land-swells stood
+the village of Kingaru, with surroundings significant in their
+aspect of ague and fever.  Perhaps the clouds surcharged with rain,
+and the overhanging ridges and their dense forests dulled by the
+gloom, made the place more than usually disagreeable, but my
+first impressions of the sodden hollow, pent in by those dull
+woods, with the deep gully close by containing pools of stagnant
+water, were by no means agreeable.
+
+Before we could arrange our camp and set the tents up, down poured
+the furious harbinger of the Masika season in torrents sufficient
+to damp the ardor and newborn love for East Africa I had lately
+manifested.  However, despite rain, we worked on until our camp was
+finished and the property was safely stored from weather and thieves,
+and we could regard with resignation the raindrops beating the soil
+into mud of a very tenacious kind, and forming lakelets and rivers
+of our camp-ground.
+
+Towards night, the scene having reached its acme of unpleasantness,
+the rain ceased, and the natives poured into camp from the villages
+in the woods with their vendibles.  Foremost among these, as if in
+duty bound, came the village sultan--lord, chief, or head--bearing
+three measures of matama and half a measure of rice, of which he
+begged, with paternal smiles, my acceptance.  But under his
+smiling mask, bleared eyes, and wrinkled front was visible the soul
+of trickery, which was of the cunningest kind.  Responding under
+the same mask adopted by this knavish elder, I said, "The chief of
+Kingaru has called me a rich sultan.  If I am a rich sultan why
+comes not the chief with a rich present to me, that he might get
+a rich return?"  Said he, with another leer of his wrinkled visage,
+"Kingaru is poor, there is no matama in the village."  To which I
+replied that since there was no matama in the village I would pay
+him half a shukka, or a yard of cloth, which would be exactly
+equivalent to his present; that if he preferred to call his small
+basketful a present, I should be content to call my yard of cloth
+a present.  With which logic he was fain to be satisfied.
+
+April 1st.--To-day the Expedition suffered a loss in the death of
+the grey Arab horse presented by Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar.
+The night previous I had noticed that the horse was suffering.
+Bearing in mind what has been so frequently asserted, namely, that
+no horses could live in the interior of Africa because of the tsetse,
+I had him opened, and the stomach, which I believed to be diseased,
+examined.  Besides much undigested matama and grass there were found
+twenty-five short, thick, white worms, sticking like leeches into
+the coating of the stomach, while the intestines were almost alive
+with the numbers of long white worms.  I was satisfied that neither
+man nor beast could long exist with such a mass of corrupting life
+within him.
+
+In order that the dead carcase might not taint the valley, I had
+it buried deep in the ground, about a score of yards from the
+encampment.  From such a slight cause ensued a tremendous uproar
+from Kingaru--chief of the village--who, with his brother-chiefs of
+neighbouring villages, numbering in the aggregate two dozen wattled
+huts, had taken counsel upon the best means of mulcting the Musungu
+of a full doti or two of Merikani, and finally had arrived at the
+conviction that the act of burying a dead horse in their soil without
+"By your leave, sir," was a grievous and fineable fault.  Affecting
+great indignation at the unpardonable omission, he, Kingaru,
+concluded to send to the Musungu four of his young men to say to him
+that "since you have buried your horse in my ground, it is well; let
+him remain there; but you must pay me two doti of Merikani."  For
+reply the messengers were told to say to the chief that I would
+prefer talking the matter over with himself face to face, if he would
+condescend to visit me in my tent once again.  As the village was but
+a stone's throw from our encampment, before many minutes had elapsed
+the wrinkled elder made his appearance at the door of my tent with
+about half the village behind him.
+
+The following dialogue which took place will serve to illustrate
+the tempers of the people with whom I was about to have a year's
+trading intercourse:
+
+White Man.--"Are you the great chief of Kingaru?"
+
+Kingaru.--"Huh-uh.  Yes."
+
+W. M.--"The great, great chief?"
+
+Kingaru.--"Huh-uh.  Yes."
+
+W. M.--" How many soldiers have you?"
+
+Kingaru.--" Why?"
+
+W. M.--"How many fighting men have you?"
+
+Kingaru.--"None."
+
+W. M.--"Oh! I thought you might have a thousand men with you, by
+your going to fine a strong white man, who has plenty of guns and
+soldiers, two doti for burying a dead horse."
+
+Kingaru (rather perplexed).--" No; I have no soldiers.  I have only
+a few young men,"
+
+W. M.--"Why do you come and make trouble, then?"
+
+Kingaru.--"It was not I; it was my brothers who said to me, `Come
+here, come here, Kingaru, see what the white man has done!  Has he
+not taken possession of your soil, in that he has put his horse
+into your ground without your permission?  Come, go to him and see
+by what right.'  Therefore have I come to ask you, who gave you
+permission to use my soil for a burying-ground?"
+
+W. M.  "I want no man's permission to do what is right.  My
+horse died; had I left him to fester and stink in your valley,
+sickness would visit your village, your water would become
+unwholesome, and caravans would not stop here for trade; for
+they would say, `This is an unlucky spot, let us go away.'  But
+enough said: I understand you to say that you do not want him
+buried in your ground; the error I have fallen into is easily put
+right.  This minute my soldiers shall dig him out again, and cover
+up the soil as it was before; and the horse shall be left where he
+died." (Then shouting to Bombay.) "Ho! Bombay, take soldiers
+with jembes to dig my horse out of the ground, drag him to where
+he died, and make everything ready for a march to-morrow morning."
+
+Kingaru, his voice considerably higher, and his head moving to and
+fro with emotion, cries out, "Akuna, akuna, bana!"--"No, no,
+master!  Let not the white man get angry.  The horse is dead, and
+now lies buried; let him remain so, since he is already there,
+and let us be friends again."
+
+The Sheikh of Kingaru being thus brought to his senses, we bid each
+other the friendly "Kwaheri," and I was left alone to ruminate
+over my loss.  Barely half an hour had elapsed, it was 9 P.M.,
+the camp was in a semi-doze, when I heard deep groans issuing from
+one of the animals.  Upon inquiry as to what animal was suffering,
+I was surprised to hear that it was my bay horse.  With a
+bull's-eye lantern, I visited him, and perceived that the pain was
+located in the stomach, but whether it was from some poisonous
+plant he had eaten while out grazing, or from some equine disease,
+I did not know.  He discharged copious quantities of loose matter,
+but there was nothing peculiar in its colour.  The pain was
+evidently very great, for his struggles were very violent.  I was up
+all night, hoping that it was but a temporary effect of some strange
+and noxious plant; but at 6 o'clock the next morning, after a short
+period of great agony, he also died; exactly fifteen hours after his
+companion.  When the stomach was opened, it was found that death
+was caused by the internal rupture of a large cancer, which had
+affected the larger half of the coating of his stomach, and had
+extended an inch or two up the larynx.  The contents of the stomach
+and intestines were deluged with the yellow viscous efflux from the
+cancer.
+
+I was thus deprived of both my horses, and that within the short
+space of fifteen hours.  With my limited knowledge of veterinary
+science, however, strengthened by the actual and positive proofs
+obtained by the dissection of the two stomachs, I can scarcely
+state that horses can live to reach Unyanyembe, or that they can
+travel with ease through this part of East Africa.  But should I
+have occasion at some future day, I should not hesitate to take
+four horses with me, though I should certainly endeavour to
+ascertain previous to purchase whether they, were perfectly sound
+and healthy, and to those travellers who cherish a good horse I
+would say, "Try one," and be not discouraged by my unfortunate
+experiences.
+
+The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd of April passed, and nothing had we heard
+or seen of the ever-lagging fourth caravan.  In the meanwhile
+the list of casualties was being augmented.  Besides the loss
+of this precious time, through the perverseness of the chief
+of the other caravan, and the loss of my two horses, a pagazi
+carrying boat-fixtures improved the opportunity, and deserted.
+Selim was struck down with a severe attack of ague and fever,
+and was soon after followed by the cook, then by the assistant cook
+and tailor, Abdul Kader.  Finally, before the third day was over,
+Bombay had rheumatism, Uledi (Grant's old valet) had a swollen
+throat, Zaidi had the flux, Kingaru had the mukunguru; Khamisi,
+a pagazi, suffered from a weakness of the loins; Farjalla had a
+bilious fever; and before night closed Makoviga was very ill.
+Out of a force of twenty-five men one had deserted, and ten were
+on the sick list, and the presentiment that the ill-looking
+neighbourhood of Kingaru would prove calamitous to me was verified.
+
+On the 4th April Maganga and his people appeared, after being
+heralded by musketry-shots and horn-blowing, the usual signs of an
+approaching caravan in this land.  His sick men were considerably
+improved, but they required one more day of rest at Kingaru.  In
+the afternoon he came to lay siege to my generosity, by giving
+details of Soor Hadji Palloo's heartless cheats upon him; but I
+informed him, that since I had left Bagamoyo, I could no longer be
+generous; we were now in a land where cloth was at a high premium;
+that I had no more cloth than I should need to furnish food for
+myself and men; that he and his caravan had cost me more money
+and trouble than any three caravans I had, as indeed was the case.
+With this counter-statement he was obliged to be content.  But I
+again solved his pecuniary doubts by promising that, if he hurried
+his caravan on to Unyanyembe, be should have no cause of complaint.
+
+The 5th of April saw the fourth caravan vanish for once in our
+front, with a fair promise that, however fast we should follow,
+we should not see them the hither side of Sinbamwenni.
+
+The following morning, in order to rouse my people from the
+sickened torpitude they had lapsed into, I beat an exhilarating
+alarum on a tin pan with an iron ladle, intimating that a sofari
+was about to be undertaken.  This had a very good effect, judging
+from the extraordinary alacrity with which it was responded to.
+Before the sun rose we started.  The Kingaru villagers were out
+with the velocity of hawks for any rags or refuse left behind us.
+
+The long march to Imbiki, fifteen miles, proved that our protracted
+stay at Kingaru had completely demoralized my soldiers and
+pagazis.  Only a few of them had strength enough to reach Imbiki
+before night.  The others, attending the laden donkeys, put in an
+appearance next morning, in a lamentable state of mind and body.
+Khamisi--the pagazi with the weak loins--had deserted, taking with
+him two goats, the property tent, and the whole of Uledi's
+personal wealth, consisting of his visiting dish-dasheh--a long
+shirt of the Arabic pattern, 10 lbs.  of beads, and a few fine
+cloths, which Uledi, in a generous fit, had intrusted to him, while
+he carried the pagazi's load, 70 lbs. of Bubu beads.  This
+defalcation was not to be overlooked, nor should Khamisi be
+permitted to return without an effort to apprehend him.  Accordingly
+Uledi and Ferajji were despatched in pursuit while we rested at
+Imbiki, in order to give the dilapidated soldiers and animals time
+to recruit.
+
+On the 8th we continued our journey, and arrived at Msuwa.  This
+march will be remembered by our caravan as the most fatiguing of all,
+though the distance was but ten miles.  It was one continuous jungle,
+except three interjacent glades of narrow limits, which gave us
+three breathing pauses in the dire task of jungle travelling.  The
+odour emitted from its fell plants was so rank, so pungently acrid,
+and the miasma from its decayed vegetation so dense, that I expected
+every moment to see myself and men drop down in paroxysms of acute
+fever.  Happily this evil was not added to that of loading and
+unloading the frequently falling packs.  Seven soldiers to attend
+seventeen laden donkeys were entirely too small a number while passing
+through a jungle; for while the path is but a foot wide, with a
+wall of thorny plants and creepers bristling on each side, and
+projecting branches darting across it, with knots of spikey twigs
+stiff as spike-nails, ready to catch and hold anything above four
+feet in height, it is but reasonable to suppose that donkeys
+standing four feet high, with loads measuring across from bale to
+bale four feet, would come to grief.  This grief was of frequent
+recurrence here, causing us to pause every few minutes for
+re-arrangements.  So often had this task to be performed, that the
+men got perfectly discouraged, and had to bespoken to sharply
+before they set to work.  By the time I reached Msuwa there was
+nobody with me and the ten donkeys I drove but Mabruk the Little,
+who, though generally stolid, stood to his work like a man.
+Bombay and Uledi were far behind, with the most jaded donkeys.
+Shaw was in charge of the cart, and his experiences were most
+bitter, as he informed me he had expended a whole vocabulary of
+stormy abuse known to sailors, and a new one which he had invented
+ex tempore.  He did not arrive until two o'clock next morning, and
+was completely worn out.
+
+Another halt was fixed at Msuwa, that we and our animals might
+recuperate.  The chief of the village, a white man in everything
+but colour, sent me and mine the fattest broad-tailed sheep of his
+flock, with five measures of matama grain.  The mutton was
+excellent, unapproachable.  For his timely and needful present
+I gave him two doti, and amused him with an exhibition of the
+wonderful mechanism of the Winchester rifle, and my breechloading
+revolvers.
+
+He and his people were intelligent enough to comprehend the utility
+of these weapons at an emergency, and illustrated in expressive
+pantomime the powers they possessed against numbers of people
+armed only with spears and bows, by extending their arms with an
+imaginary gun and describing a clear circle.  "Verily," said
+they, "the Wasungu are far wiser than the Washensi.  What heads
+they have!  What wonderful things they make!  Look at their
+tents, their guns, their time-pieces, their clothes, and that
+little rolling thing (the cart) which carries more than five
+men,---que!"
+
+On the 10th, recovered from the excessive strain of the last march,
+the caravan marched out of Msuwa, accompanied by the hospitable
+villagers as far as their stake defence, receiving their unanimous
+"Kwaheris."  Outside the village the march promised to be less
+arduous than between Imbiki and Msuwa.  After crossing a beautiful
+little plain intersected by a dry gully or mtoni, the route led by
+a few cultivated fields, where the tillers greeted us with one grand
+unwinking stare, as if fascinated.
+
+Soon after we met one of those sights common in part of the world,
+to wit a chain slave-gang, bound east.  The slaves did not appear to
+be in any way down-hearted on the contrary, they seemed imbued with
+the philosophic jollity of the jolly servant of Martin Chuzzlewit.
+Were it not for their chains, it would have been difficult to discover
+master from slave; the physiognomic traits were alike--the mild
+benignity with which we were regarded was equally visible on all faces.
+The chains were ponderous--they might have held elephants captive;
+but as the slaves carried nothing but themselves, their weight could
+not have been insupportable.
+
+The jungle was scant on this march, and though in some places the
+packs met with accidents, they were not such as seriously to
+retard progress.  By 10 A.M. we were in camp in the midst of an
+imposing view of green sward and forest domed by a cloudless sky.
+We had again pitched our camp in the wilderness, and, as is the
+custom of caravans, fired two shots to warn any Washensi having
+grain to sell, that we were willing to trade.
+
+Our next halting-place was Kisemo, distant but eleven miles from
+Msuwa, a village situated in a populous district, having in its
+vicinity no less than five other villages, each fortified by
+stakes and thorny abattis, with as much fierce independence as if
+their petty lords were so many Percys and Douglasses.  Each
+topped a ridge, or a low hummock, with an assumption of defiance of
+the cock-on-its-own-dunghill type.  Between these humble eminences
+and low ridges of land wind narrow vales which are favored with the
+cultivation of matama and Indian corn.  Behind the village flows
+the Ungerengeri River, an impetuous stream during the Masika
+season, capable of overflowing its steep banks, but in the dry
+season it subsides into its proper status, which is that of a small
+stream of very clear sweet water.  Its course from Kisemo is
+south-west, then easterly ; it is the main feeder of the Kingani
+River.
+
+The belles of Kisemo are noted for their vanity in brass wire,
+which is wound in spiral rings round their wrists and ankles, and
+the varieties of style which their hispid heads exhibit; while
+their poor lords, obliged to be contented with dingy torn clouts
+and split ears, show what wide sway Asmodeus holds over this
+terrestrial sphere--for it must have been an unhappy time when the
+hard-besieged husbands finally gave way before their spouses.
+Besides these brassy ornaments on their extremities, and the
+various hair-dressing styles, the women of Kisemo frequently wear
+lengthy necklaces, which run in rivers of colours down their
+bodies.
+
+A more comical picture is seldom presented than that of one of
+these highly-dressed females engaged in the homely and necessary
+task of grinding corn for herself and family.  The grinding
+apparatus consists of two portions: one, a thick pole of hard wood
+about six feet long, answering for a pestle; the other, a
+capacious wooden mortar, three feet in height.
+
+While engaged in setting his tent, Shaw was obliged to move a small
+flat stone, to drive a peg into the ground.  The village chief, who
+saw him do it, rushed up in a breathless fashion, and replaced the
+stone instantly, then stood on it in an impressive manner,
+indicative of the great importance attached to that stone and
+location.  Bombay, seeing Shaw standing in silent wonder at the
+act, volunteered to ask the chief what was the matter.  The Sheikh
+solemnly answered, with a finger pointing downward, "Uganga!"
+Whereupon I implored him to let me see what was under the stone.
+With a graciousness quite affecting he complied.  My curiosity was
+gratified with the sight of a small whittled stick, which pinned
+fast to the ground an insect, the cause of a miscarriage to a young
+female of the village.
+
+During the afternoon, Uledi and Ferajji, who had been despatched
+after the truant Khamisi, returned with him and all the missing
+articles.  Khamisi, soon after leaving the road and plunging into
+the jungle, where he was mentally triumphing in his booty, was met
+by some of the plundering Washensi, who are always on the qui vive
+for stragglers, and unceremoniously taken to their village in the
+woods, and bound to a tree preparatory, to being killed.  Khamisi
+said that he asked them why they tied him up, to which they answered,
+that they were about to kill him, because he was a Mgwana, whom they
+were accustomed to kill as soon as they were caught.  But Uledi and
+Ferajji shortly after coming upon the scene, both well armed, put
+an end to the debates upon Khamisi's fate, by claiming him as
+an absconding pagazi from the Musungu's camp, as well as all the
+articles he possessed at the time of capture.  The robbers did not
+dispute the claim for the pagazi, goats, tent, or any other
+valuable found with him, but intimated that they deserved a reward
+for apprehending him.  The demand being considered just, a reward
+to the extent of two doti and a fundo, or ten necklaces of beads,
+was given.
+
+Khamisi, for his desertion and attempted robbery, could not be
+pardoned without first suffering punishment.  He had asked at
+Bagamoyo, before enlisting in my service, an advance of $5 in
+money, and had received it, and a load of Bubu beads, no heavier
+than a pagazis load, had been given him to carry; he had,
+therefore, no excuse for desertion.  Lest I should overstep
+prudence, however, in punishing him, I convened a court of eight
+pagazis and four soldiers to sit in judgment, and asked them to
+give me their decision as to what should be done.  Their unanimous
+verdict was that he was guilty of a crime almost unknown among the
+Wanyamwezi pagazis, and as it was likely to give bad repute to the
+Wanyamwezi carriers, they therefore sentenced him to be flogged
+with the "Great Master's" donkey whip, which was accordingly
+carried out, to poor Khamisi's crying sorrow.
+
+On the 12th the caravan reached Mussoudi, on the Ungerengeri river.
+Happily for our patient donkeys this march was free from all the
+annoying troubles of the jungle.  Happily for ourselves also, for
+we had no more the care of the packs and the anxiety about
+arriving at camp before night.  The packs once put firmly on the
+backs of our good donkeys, they marched into camp--the road being
+excellent--without a single displacement or cause for one impatient
+word, soon after leaving Kisemo.  A beautiful prospect, glorious in
+its wild nature, fragrant with its numerous flowers and variety of
+sweetly-smelling shrubs, among which I recognised the wild sage,
+the indigo plant, &c., terminated only at the foot of Kira Peak
+and sister cones, which mark the boundaries between Udoe and Ukami,
+yet distant twenty miles.  Those distant mountains formed a not
+unfit background to this magnificent picture of open plain, forest
+patches, and sloping lawns--there was enough of picturesqueness and
+sublimity in the blue mountains to render it one complete whole.
+Suppose a Byron saw some of these scenes, he would be inclined to
+poetize in this manner:
+
+Morn dawns, and with it stern Udoe's hills,
+Dark Urrugum's rocks, and Kira's peak,
+Robed half in mist, bedewed with various rills,
+Arrayed in many a dun and purple streak.
+
+When drawing near the valley of Ungerengeri, granite knobs and
+protuberances of dazzling quartz showed their heads above the
+reddish soil.  Descending the ridge where these rocks were
+prominent, we found ourselves in the sable loam deposit of the
+Ungerengeri, and in the midst of teeming fields of sugar-cane and
+matama, Indian corn, muhogo, and gardens of curry, egg, and
+cucumber plants.  On the banks of the Ungerengeri flourished the
+banana, and overtopping it by seventy feet and more, shot up the
+stately mparamusi, the rival in beauty of the Persian chenar and
+Abyssinian plane.  Its trunk is straight and comely enough for the
+mainmast of a first, class frigate, while its expanding crown of
+leafage is distinguished from all others by its density and vivid
+greenness.  There were a score of varieties of the larger kind of
+trees, whose far-extending branches embraced across the narrow but
+swift river.  The depressions of the valley and the immediate
+neighbourhood of the river were choked with young forests of
+tiger-grass and stiff reeds.
+
+Mussoudi is situated on a higher elevation than the average level
+of the village, and consequently looks down upon its neighbours,
+which number a hundred and more.  It is the western extremity of
+Ukwere.  On the western bank of the Ungerengeri the territory of
+the Wakami commences.  We had to halt one day at Mussoudi because
+the poverty of the people prevented us from procuring the needful
+amount of grain.  The cause of this scantiness in such a fertile
+and populous valley was, that the numerous caravans which had
+preceded us had drawn heavily for their stores for the upmarches.
+
+On the 14th we crossed the Ungerengeri, which here flows southerly
+to the southern extremity of the valley, where it bends easterly
+as far as Kisemo.  After crossing the river here, fordable at all
+times and only twenty yards in breadth, we had another mile of
+the valley with its excessively moist soil and rank growth of
+grass.  It then ascended into a higher elevation, and led through
+a forest of mparamusi, tamarind, tamarisk, acacia, and the blooming
+mimosa.  This ascent was continued for two hours, when we stood
+upon the spine of the largest ridge, where we could obtain free
+views of the wooded plain below and the distant ridges of Kisemo,
+which we had but lately left.  A descent of a few hundred feet
+terminated in a deep but dry mtoni with a sandy bed, on the other
+side of which we had to regain the elevation we had lost, and a
+similar country opened into view until we found a newly-made boma
+with well-built huts of grass rear a pool of water, which we at
+once occupied as a halting-place for the night.  The cart gave us
+considerable trouble; not even our strongest donkey, though it
+carried with ease on its back 196 lbs., could draw the cart with
+a load of only 225 lbs. weight.
+
+Early on the morning of the 15th we broke camp and started for
+Mikeseh.  By 8.30 A.M. we were ascending the southern face of the
+Kira Peak.  When we had gained the height of two hundred feet above
+the level of the surrounding country, we were gratified with a
+magnificent view of a land whose soil knows no Sabbath.
+
+After travelling the spine of a ridge abutting against the southern
+slope of Kira we again descended into the little valley of
+Kiwrima, the first settlement we meet in Udoe, where there is
+always an abundant supply of water.  Two miles west of Kiwrima is
+Mikiseh.
+
+On the 16th we reached Ulagalla after a few hours' march.
+Ulagalla is the name of a district, or a portion of a district,
+lying between the mountains of Uruguru, which bound it southerly,
+and the mountains of Udoe, lying northerly and parallel with them,
+and but ten miles apart.  The principal part of the basin thus
+formed is called Ulagalla.
+
+Muhalleh is the next settlement, and here we found ourselves in
+the territory of the Waseguhha.  On this march we were hemmed in
+by mountains--on our left by those of Uruguru, on our right by
+those of Udoe and Useguhha--a most agreeable and welcome change to
+us after the long miles of monotonous level we had hitherto seen.
+When tired of looking into the depths of the forest that still ran
+on either side of the road, we had but to look up to the mountain's
+base, to note its strange trees, its plants and vari-coloured flowers,
+we had but to raise our heads to vary this pleasant occupation by
+observing the lengthy and sinuous spine of the mountains, and
+mentally report upon their outline, their spurs, their projections
+and ravines, their bulging rocks and deep clefts, and, above all,
+the dark green woods clothing them from summit to base.  And when
+our attention was not required for the mundane task of regarding
+the donkeys' packs, or the pace of the cautious-stepping pagazis,
+it was gratifying to watch the vapours play about the mountain
+summits--to see them fold into fleecy crowns and fantastic clusters,
+dissolve, gather together into a pall that threatened rain, and sail
+away again before the brightening sun.
+
+At Muhalleh was the fourth caravan under Maganga with three more
+sick men, who turned with eager eyes to myself, "the dispenser of
+medicine," as I approached.  Salvos of small arms greeted me, and
+a present of rice and ears of Indian corn for roasting were awaiting
+my acceptance; but, as I told Maganga, I would have preferred to
+hear that his party were eight or ten marches ahead.  At this
+camp, also, we met Salim bin Rashid, bound eastward, with a huge
+caravan carrying three hundred ivory tusks.  This good Arab,
+besides welcoming the new comer with a present of rice, gave me
+news of Livingstone.  He had met the old traveller at Ujiji, had
+lived in the next but to him for two weeks, described him as
+looking old, with long grey moustaches and beard, just recovered
+from severe illness, looking very wan; when fully recovered
+Livingstone intended to visit a country called Manyema by way of
+Marungu.
+
+The valley of the Ungerengeri with Muhalleh exhibits wonderful
+fertility.  Its crops of matama were of the tallest, and its
+Indian corn would rival the best crops ever seen in the Arkansas
+bottoms.  The numerous mountain-fed streams rendered the great
+depth of loam very sloppy, in consequence of which several
+accidents occurred before we reached the camp, such as wetting
+cloth, mildewing tea, watering sugar, and rusting tools;
+but prompt attention to these necessary things saved us from
+considerable loss.
+
+There was a slight difference noticed in the demeanour and bearing
+of the Waseguhha compared with the Wadoe, Wakami, and Wakwere
+heretofore seen.  There was none of that civility we had been
+until now pleased to note: their express desire to barter was
+accompanied with insolent hints that we ought to take their produce
+at their own prices.  If we remonstrated they became angry;
+retorting fiercely, impatient of opposition, they flew into
+a passion, and were glib in threats.  This strange conduct, so
+opposite to that of the calm and gentle Wakwere, may be excellently
+illustrated by comparing the manner of the hot-headed Greek with
+that of the cool and collected German.  Necessity compelled us
+to purchase eatables of them, and, to the credit of the country
+and its productions, be it said, their honey had the peculiar
+flavour of that of famed Hymettus.
+
+Following the latitudinal valley of the Ungerengeri, within two
+hours on the following morning we passed close under the wall of
+the capital of Useguhha--Simbamwenni.  The first view of the
+walled town at the western foot of the Uruguru mountains, with its
+fine valley abundantly beautiful, watered by two rivers, and
+several pellucid streams of water distilled by the dew and
+cloud-enriched heights around, was one that we did not anticipate
+to meet in Eastern Africa.  In Mazanderan, Persia, such a scene
+would have answered our expectations, but here it was totally
+unexpected.  The town may contain a population of 3,000, having
+about 1,000 houses; being so densely crowded, perhaps 5,000 would
+more closely approximate.  The houses in the town are eminently
+African, but of the best type of construction.  The fortifications
+are on an Arabic Persic model--combining Arab neatness with Persian
+plan.  Through a ride of 950 miles in Persia I never met a town
+outside of the great cities better fortified than Simbamwenni.
+In Persia the fortifications were of mud, even those of Kasvin,
+Teheran, Ispahan, and Shiraz; those of Simbamwenni are of stone,
+pierced with two rows of loopholes for musketry.  The area of
+the town is about half a square mile, its plan being quadrangular.
+Well-built towers of stone guard each corner; four gates, one facing
+each cardinal point, and set half way between the several towers,
+permit ingress and egress for its inhabitants.  The gates are
+closed with solid square doors made of African teak, and carved
+with the infinitesimally fine and complicated devices of the Arabs,
+from which I suspect that the doors were made either at Zanzibar
+or on the coast, and conveyed to Simbamwenni plank by plank;
+yet as there is much communication between Bagamoyo and Simbamwenni,
+it is just possible that native artisans are the authors of this
+ornate workmanship, as several doors chiselled and carved in the
+same manner, though not quite so elaborately, were visible in the
+largest houses.  The palace of the Sultan is after the style of
+those on the coast, with long sloping roof, wide eaves, and
+veranda in front.
+
+The Sultana is the eldest daughter of the famous Kisabengo, a name
+infamous throughout the neighbouring countries of Udoe, Ukami,
+Ukwere, Kingaru, Ukwenni, and Kiranga-Wanna, for his kidnapping
+propensities.  Kisabengo was another Theodore on a small scale.
+Sprung from humble ancestry, he acquired distinction for his
+personal strength, his powers of harangue, and his amusing and
+versatile address, by which he gained great ascendency over
+fugitive slaves, and was chosen a leader among them.  Fleeing
+from justice, which awaited him at the hands of the Zanzibar Sultan,
+he arrived in Ukami, which extended at that time from Ukwere to
+Usagara, and here he commenced a career of conquest, the result
+of which was the cession by the Wakami of an immense tract of
+fertile country, in the valley of the Ungerengeri.  On its most
+desirable site, with the river flowing close under the walls,
+he built his capital, and called it Simbamwenni, which means
+"The Lion," or the strongest, City.  In old age the successful
+robber and kidnapper changed his name of Kisabengo, which had
+gained such a notoriety, to Simbamwenni, after his town; and when
+dying, after desiring that his eldest daughter should succeed him,
+he bestowed the name of the town upon her also, which name of
+Simbamwenni the Sultana now retains and is known by.
+
+While crossing a rapid stream, which, as I said before flowed close
+to the walls, the inhabitants of Simbamwenni had a fine chance of
+gratifying their curiosity of seeing the "Great Musungu," whose
+several caravans had preceded him, and who unpardonably, because
+unlicensed, had spread a report of his great wealth and power.
+I was thus the object of a universal stare.  At one time on the
+banks there were considerably over a thousand natives going
+through the several tenses and moods of the verb "to stare,"
+or exhibiting every phase of the substantive, viz.--the stare
+peremptory, insolent, sly, cunning, modest, and casual.  The
+warriors of the Sultana, holding in one hand the spear, the bow,
+and sheaf or musket, embraced with the other their respective
+friends, like so many models of Nisus and Euryalus, Theseus
+and Pirithous, Damon and Pythias, or Achilles and Patroclus,
+to whom they confidentially related their divers opinions upon
+my dress and colour.  The words "Musungu kuba" had as much charm
+for these people as the music of the Pied Piper had for the rats
+of Hamelin, since they served to draw from within the walls across
+their stream so large a portion of the population; and when I
+continued the journey to the Ungerengeri, distant four miles,
+I feared that the Hamelin catastrophe might have to be repeated
+before I could rid myself of them.  But fortunately for my peace
+of mind, they finally proved vincible under the hot sun, and the
+distance we had to go to camp.
+
+As we were obliged to overhaul the luggage, and repair saddles, as
+well as to doctor a few of the animals, whose backs had by this
+time become very sore, I determined to halt here two days.
+Provisions were very plentiful also at Simbamwenni, though
+comparatively dear.
+
+On the second day I was, for the first time, made aware that my
+acclimatization in the ague-breeding swamps of Arkansas was
+powerless against the mukunguru of East Africa.  The premonitory
+symptoms of the African type were felt in my system at 10 A.M.
+First, general lassitude prevailed, with a disposition to
+drowsiness; secondly, came the spinal ache which, commencing from
+the loins, ascended the vertebrae, and extended around the ribs,
+until it reached the shoulders, where it settled into a weary
+pain; thirdly came a chilliness over the whole body, which was
+quickly followed by a heavy head, swimming eyes, and throbbing
+temples, with vague vision, which distorted and transformed all
+objects of sight.  This lasted until 10 P.M., and the mukunguru
+left me, much prostrated in strength.
+
+The remedy, applied for three mornings in succession after the
+attack, was such as my experience in Arkansas had taught me was
+the most powerful corrective, viz., a quantum of fifteen grains
+of quinine, taken in three doses of five grains each, every other
+hour from dawn to meridian--the first dose to be taken immediately
+after the first effect of the purging medicine taken at bedtime the
+night previous.  I may add that this treatment was perfectly
+successful in my case, and in all others which occurred in my
+camp.  After the mukunguru had declared itself, there was no fear,
+with such a treatment of it, of a second attack, until at least
+some days afterwards.
+
+On the third day the camp was visited by the ambassadors of
+Her Highness the Sultana of Simbamwenni, who came as her
+representatives to receive the tribute which she regards herself
+as powerful enough to enforce.  But they, as well as Madame
+Simbamwenni, were informed, that as we knew it was their custom to
+charge owners of caravans but one tribute, and as they remembered
+the Musungu (Farquhar) had paid already, it was not fair that I
+should have to pay again.  The ambassadors replied with a "Ngema"
+(very well), and promised to carry my answer back to their
+mistress.  Though it was by no means "very well " in fact, as it
+will be seen in a subsequent chapter how the female Simbamwenni
+took advantage of an adverse fortune which befell me to pay
+herself.  With this I close the chapter of incidents experienced
+during our transit across the maritime region.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.  TO UGOGO.
+
+A valley of despond, and hot-bed of malaria.--Myriads of vermin.--
+The Makata swamp.--A sorrowful experience catching a deserter.--A
+far-embracing prospect.--Illness of William Farquhar.-Lake Ugombo.--
+A land of promise.--The great Kisesa.--The plague of earwigs.
+
+
+The distance from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni we found to be 119 miles,
+and was accomplished in fourteen marches.  But these marches, owing
+to difficulties arising from the Masika season, and more especially
+to the lagging of the fourth caravan under Maganga, extended to
+twenty-nine days, thus rendering our progress very slow indeed--
+but a little more than four miles a-day.  I infer, from what I have
+seen of the travelling, that had I not been encumbered by the sick
+Wanyamwezi porters, I could have accomplished the distance in
+sixteen days.  For it was not the donkeys that proved recreant to
+my confidence; they, poor animals, carrying a weight of 150 lbs.
+each, arrived at Simbamwenni in first-rate order; but it was
+Maganga, composed of greed and laziness, and his weakly-bodied
+tribe, who were ever falling sick.  In dry weather the number of
+marches might have been much reduced.  Of the half-dozen of Arabs
+or so who preceded this Expedition along this route, two
+accomplished the entire distance in eight days.  From the brief
+descriptions given of the country, as it day by day expanded to
+our view, enough may be gleaned to give readers a fair idea of it.
+The elevation of Simbamwenni cannot be much over 1,000 feet above
+the level, the rise of the land having been gradual.  It being
+the rainy season, about which so many ominous statements were
+doled out to us by those ignorant of the character of the country,
+we naturally saw it under its worst aspect; but, even in this
+adverse phase of it, with all its depth of black mud, its
+excessive dew, its dripping and chill grass, its density of rank
+jungle, and its fevers, I look back upon the scene with pleasure,
+for the wealth and prosperity it promises to some civilized nation,
+which in some future time will come and take possession of it.
+A railroad from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni might be constructed with
+as much ease and rapidity as, and at far less cost than the Union
+Pacific Railway, whose rapid strides day by day towards completion
+the world heard of and admired.  A residence in this part of Africa,
+after a thorough system of drainage had been carried out, would not
+be attended with more discomfort than generally follows upon the
+occupation of new land.  The temperature at this season during the
+day never exceeded 85 degrees Fahrenheit.  The nights were pleasant--
+too cold without a pair of blankets for covering; and, as far as
+Simbamwenni, they were without that pest which is so dreadful on
+the Nebraska and Kansas prairies, the mosquito.  The only annoyances
+I know of that would tell hard on the settler is the determined
+ferocity of the mabungu, or horse-fly; the chufwa, &c., already
+described, which, until the dense forests and jungles were cleared,
+would be certain to render the keeping of domestic cattle
+unremunerative.
+
+Contrary to expectation the Expedition was not able to start at
+the end of two days; the third and the fourth days were passed
+miserably enough in the desponding valley of Ungerengeri.  This
+river, small as it is in the dry seasons, becomes of considerable
+volume and power during the Masika, as we experienced to our
+sorrow.  It serves as a drain to a score of peaks and two long
+ranges of mountains; winding along their base, it is the recipient
+of the cascades seen flashing during the few intervals of sunlight,
+of all the nullahs and ravines which render the lengthy frontage
+of the mountain slopes so rugged and irregular, until it glides
+into the valley of Simbamwenni a formidable body of water,
+opposing a serious obstacle to caravans without means to build
+bridges; added to which was an incessant downfall of rain--such a
+rain as shuts people in-doors and renders them miserable and
+unamiable--a real London rain--an eternal drizzle accompanied
+with mist and fog.  When the sun shone it appeared but a pale
+image of itself, and old pagazis, wise in their traditions
+as old whaling captains, shook their heads ominously at the
+dull spectre, and declared it was doubtful if the rain would cease
+for three weeks yet.
+
+The site of the caravan camp on the hither side of the Ungerengeri
+was a hot-bed of malaria, unpleasant to witness--an abomination to
+memory.  The filth of generations of pagazis had gathered
+innumerable hosts of creeping things.  Armies of black, white, and
+red ants infest the stricken soil; centipedes, like worms, of
+every hue, clamber over shrubs and plants; hanging to the
+undergrowth are the honey-combed nests of yellow-headed wasps with
+stings as harmful as scorpions; enormous beetles, as large as
+full-grown mice, roll dunghills over the ground; of all sorts,
+shapes, sizes, and hues are the myriad-fold vermin with which the
+ground teems; in short, the richest entomological collection could
+not vie in variety and numbers with the species which the four
+walls of my tent enclosed from morning until night.
+
+On the fifth morning, or the 23rd April, the rain gave us a few
+hours' respite, during which we managed to wade through the
+Stygian quagmire reeking with noisomeness to the inundated
+river-bank.  The soldiers commenced at 5 A.M. to convey the
+baggage across from bank to bank over a bridge which was the most
+rustic of the rustic kind.  Only an ignorant African would have
+been satisfied with its small utility as a means to cross a deep
+and rapid body of water.  Even for light-footed Wanyamwezi pagazis
+it was anything but comfortable to traverse.  Only a professional
+tight-rope performer could have carried a load across with ease.
+To travel over an African bridge requires, first, a long leap
+from land to the limb of a tree (which may or may not be covered
+by water), followed by a long jump ashore.  With 70 lbs. weight on
+his back, the carrier finds it difficult enough.  Sometimes he is
+assisted by ropes extemporized from the long convolvuli which hang
+from almost every tree, but not always, these being deemed
+superfluities by the Washensi.
+
+Fortunately the baggage was transferred without a single accident,
+and though the torrent was strong, the donkeys were dragged through
+the flood by vigorous efforts and much objurgation without a
+casualty.  This performance of crossing the Ungerengeri occupied
+fully five hours, though energy, abuse, and fury enough were
+expended for an army.
+
+Reloading and wringing our clothes dry, we set out from the
+horrible neighbourhood of the river, with its reek and filth,
+in a northerly direction, following a road which led up to easy
+and level ground.  Two obtruding hills were thus avoided on our
+left, and after passing them we had shut out the view of the
+hateful valley.
+
+I always found myself more comfortable and lighthearted while
+travelling than when chafing and fretting in camp at delays which
+no effort could avoid, and consequently I fear that some things,
+while on a march, may be tinted somewhat stronger than their
+appearance or merit may properly warrant.  But I thought that the
+view opening before us was much more agreeable than the valley of
+Simbamwenni with all its indescribable fertility.  It was a series
+of glades opening one after another between forest clumps of young
+trees, hemmed in distantly by isolated peaks and scattered
+mountains.  Now and again, as we crested low eminences we caught
+sight of the blue Usagara mountains, bounding the horizon westerly
+and northerly, and looked down upon a vast expanse of plain which
+lay between.
+
+At the foot of the lengthy slope, well-watered by bubbling
+springs and mountain rills, we found a comfortable khambi with
+well-made huts, which the natives call Simbo.  It lies just two
+hours or five miles north-west of the Ungerengeri crossing.  The
+ground is rocky, composed principally of quartzose detritus swept
+down by the constant streams.  In the neighbourhood of these grow
+bamboo, the thickest of which was about two and a half inches in
+diameter; the "myombo," a very shapely tree, with a clean trunk
+like an ash, the "imbite," with large, fleshy leaves like the
+"mtamba," sycamore, plum-tree, the "ugaza," ortamarisk, and the
+"mgungu," a tree containing several wide branches with small
+leaves clustered together in a clump, and the silk-cotton tree.
+
+Though there are no villages or settlements in view of Simbo
+Khambi, there are several clustered within the mountain folds,
+inhabited by Waseguhha somewhat prone to dishonest acts and
+murder.
+
+The long broad plain visible from the eminences crossed between
+the Ungerengeri and Simbo was now before us, and became known to
+sorrowful memory subsequently, as the Makata Valley.  The initial
+march was from Simbo, its terminus at Rehenneko, at the base of the
+Usagara mountains, six marches distant.  The valley commences with
+broad undulations, covered with young forests of bamboo, which grow
+thickly along the streams, the dwarf fan-palm, the stately Palmyra,
+and the mgungu.  These undulations soon become broken by gullies
+containing water, nourishing dense crops of cane reeds and broad-
+bladed grass, and, emerging from this district, wide savannah
+covered with tall grass open into view, with an isolated tree here
+and there agreeably breaking the monotony of the scene.  The Makata
+is a wilderness containing but one village of the Waseguhha
+throughout its broad expanse.  Venison, consequently, abounds
+within the forest clumps, and the kudu, hartebeest, antelope,
+and zebra may be seen at early dawn emerging into the open
+savannahs to feed.  At night, the cyn-hyaena prowls about with
+its hideous clamour seeking for sleeping prey, man or beast.
+
+The slushy mire of the savannahs rendered marching a work of great
+difficulty; its tenacious hold of the feet told terribly on men
+and animals.  A ten-mile march required ten hours, we were
+therefore compelled to camp in the middle of this wilderness, and
+construct a new khambi, a measure which was afterwards adopted by
+half a dozen caravans.
+
+The cart did not arrive until nearly midnight, and with it,
+besides three or four broken-down pagazis, came Bombay with the
+dolorous tale, that having put his load--consisting of the property
+tent, one large American axe, his two uniform coats, his shirts,
+beads and cloth, powder, pistol, and hatchet--on the ground, to go
+and assist the cart out of a quagmire, he had returned to the place
+where he had left it and could not find it, that he believed that
+some thieving Washensi, who always lurk in the rear of caravans to
+pick up stragglers, had decamped with it.  Which dismal tale told
+me at black midnight was not received at all graciously, but rather
+with most wrathful words, all of which the penitent captain received
+as his proper due.  Working myself into a fury,, I enumerated his
+sins to him; he had lost a goat at Muhalleh, he had permitted
+Khamisi to desert with valuable property at Imbiki; he had
+frequently shown culpable negligence in not looking after the
+donkeys, permitting them to be tied up at night without seeing that
+they had water, and in the mornings, when about to march, he
+preferred to sleep until 7 o'clock, rather than wake up early and
+saddle the donkeys, that we might start at 6 o'clock; he had shown
+of late great love for the fire, cowering like a bloodless man
+before it, torpid and apathetic; he had now lost the property-tent
+in the middle of the Masika season, by which carelessness the cloth
+bales would rot and become valueless; he had lost the axe which
+I should want at Ujiji to construct my boat; and finally, he had
+lost a pistol and hatchet, and a flaskful of the best powder.
+Considering all these things, how utterly incompetent he was to
+be captain, I would degrade him from his office and appoint
+Mabruki Burton instead.  Uledi, also, following the example of
+Bombay, instead of being second captain, should give no orders
+to any soldiers in future, but should himself obey those given
+by Mabruki--the said Mabruki being worth a dozen Bombays, and
+two dozen Uledis; and so he was dismissed with orders to return
+at daylight to find the tent, axe, pistol, powder, and hatchet.
+
+The next morning the caravan, thoroughly fatigued with the last
+day's exertions, was obliged to halt.  Bombay was despatched after
+the lost goods; Kingaru, Mabruki the Great, and Mabruki the Little
+were despatched to bring back three doti-worth of grain, on which
+we were to subsist in the wilderness.
+
+Three days passed away and we were still at camp, awaiting, with
+what patience we possessed, the return of the soldiers.  In the
+meantime provisions ran very low, no game could be procured, the
+birds were so wild.  Two days shooting procured but two potfuls
+of birds, consisting of grouse, quail, and pigeons.  Bombay returned
+unsuccessfully from his search after the missing property, and
+suffered deep disgrace.
+
+On the fourth day I despatched Shaw with two more soldiers, to see
+what had become of Kingaru and the two Mabrukis.  Towards night he
+returned completely prostrated, with a violent attack of the
+mukunguru, or ague; but bringing the missing soldiers, who were
+thus left to report for themselves.
+
+With most thankful hearts did we quit our camp, where so much
+anxiety of mind and fretfulness had been suffered, not heeding a
+furious rain, which, after drenching us all night, might have
+somewhat damped our ardor for the march under other circumstances.
+The road for the first mile led over reddish ground, and was
+drained by gentle slopes falling east and west; but, leaving the
+cover of the friendly woods, on whose eastern margin we had been
+delayed so long, we emerged into one of the savannahs, whose soil
+during the rain is as soft as slush and tenacious as thick mortar,
+where we were all threatened with the fate of the famous Arkansas
+traveller, who had sunk so low in one of the many quagmires in
+Arkansas county, that nothing but his tall "stove-pipe" hat was
+left visible.
+
+Shaw was sick, and the whole duty of driving the foundering
+caravan devolved upon myself.  The Wanyamwezi donkeys stuck in
+the mire as if they were rooted to it.  As fast as one was flogged
+from his stubborn position, prone to the depths fell another,
+giving me a Sisyphean labour, which was maddening trader pelting
+rain, assisted by such men as Bombay and Uledi, who could not for
+a whole skin's sake stomach the storm and mire.  Two hours of such
+a task enabled me to drag my caravan over a savannah one mile and
+a half broad; and barely had I finished congratulating myself over
+my success before I was halted by a deep ditch, which, filled with
+rain-water from the inundated savannahs, had become a considerable
+stream, breast-deep, flowing swiftly into the Makata.  Donkeys had
+to be unloaded, led through a torrent, and loaded again on the other
+bank--an operation which consumed a full hour.
+
+Presently, after straggling through a wood clump, barring our
+progress was another stream, swollen into a river.  The bridge
+being swept away, we were obliged to swim and float our baggage
+over, which delayed us two hours more.  Leaving this second
+river-bank, we splashed, waded, occasionally half-swimming, and
+reeled through mire, water-dripping grass and matama stalks,
+along the left bank of the Makata proper, until farther progress
+was effectually prevented for that day by a deep bend of the
+river, which we should be obliged to cross the next day.
+
+Though but six miles were traversed during that miserable day, the
+march occupied ten hours.
+
+Half dead with fatigue, I yet could feel thankful that it was not
+accompanied by fever, which it seemed a miracle to avoid; for if
+ever a district was cursed with the ague, the Makata wilderness
+ranks foremost of those afflicted.  Surely the sight of the
+dripping woods enveloped in opaque mist, of the inundated country
+with lengthy swathes of tiger-grass laid low by the turbid flood,
+of mounds of decaying trees and canes, of the swollen river and the
+weeping sky, was enough to engender the mukunguru!  The well-used
+khambi, and the heaps of filth surrounding it, were enough to
+create a cholera!
+
+The Makata, a river whose breadth during the dry season is but
+forty feet, in the Masika season assumes the breadth, depth, and
+force of an important river.  Should it happen to be an unusually
+rainy season, it inundates the great plain which stretches on
+either side, and converts it into a great lake.  It is the main
+feeder of the Wami river, which empties into the sea between the
+ports of Saadani and Whinde.  About ten miles north-east of the
+Makata crossing, the Great Makata, the Little Makata, a nameless
+creek, and the Rudewa river unite; and the river thus formed
+becomes known as the Wami.  Throughout Usagara the Wami is known
+as the Mukondokwa.  Three of these streams take their rise from
+the crescent-like Usagara range, which bounds the Makata plain south
+and south-westerly; while the Rudewa rises in the northern horn of
+the same range.
+
+So swift was the flow of the Makata, and so much did its unsteady
+bridge, half buried in the water, imperil the safety of the
+property, that its transfer from bank to bank occupied fully five
+hours.  No sooner had we landed every article on the other side,
+undamaged by the water, than the rain poured down in torrents
+that drenched them all, as if they had been dragged through the
+river.  To proceed through the swamp which an hour's rain had
+formed was utterly out of the question.  We were accordingly
+compelled to camp in a place where every hour furnished its quota
+of annoyance.  One of the Wangwana soldiers engaged at Bagamoyo,
+named Kingaru, improved an opportunity to desert with another
+Mgwana's kit.  My two detectives, Uledi (Grant's valet), and
+Sarmean, were immediately despatched in pursuit, both being armed
+with American breech-loaders.  They went about their task with
+an adroitness and celerity which augured well for their success.
+In an hour they returned with the runaway, having found him hidden
+in the house of a Mseguhha chief called Kigondo, who lived about
+a mile from the eastern bank of the river, and who had accompanied
+Uledi and Sarmean to receive his reward, and render an account of
+the incident.
+
+Kigondo said, when he had been seated, "I saw this man carrying
+a bundle, and running hard, by which I knew that he was deserting
+you.  We (my wife and 1) were sitting in our little watch-hut,
+watching our corn; and, as the road runs close by, this man was
+obliged to come close to us.  We called to him when he was near,
+saying, `Master, where are you going so fast?  Are you deserting
+the Musungu, for we know you belong to him, since you bought from
+us yesterday two doti worth of meat?'  'Yes,'  said he, 'I am
+running away; I want to get to Simbamwenni.  If you will take me
+there, I will give you a doti.'  We said to him then, `Come into
+our house, and we will talk it over quietly.  When he was in our
+house in an inner room, we locked him up, and went out again to
+the watch; but leaving word with the women to look out for him.
+We knew that, if you wanted him, you would send askari (soldiers)
+after him.  We had but lit our pipes when we saw two men armed
+with short guns, and having no loads, coming along the road,
+looking now and then on the ground, as if they were looking at
+footmarks.  We knew them to be the men we were expecting; so we
+hailed them, and said, `Masters, what are ye looking for?' \
+They said, 'We are looking for a man who has deserted our master.
+Here are his footsteps.  If you have been long in your hut you
+must have seen him, Can you tell us where he is?'  We said,
+'yes; he is in our house.  If you will come with us, we will
+give him up to you; but your master must give us something for
+catching him.'"
+
+As Kigondo had promised to deliver Kingaru up, there remained
+nothing further to do for Uledi and Sarmean but to take charge of
+their prisoner, and bring him and his captors to my camp on the
+western bank of the Makata.  Kingaru received two dozen lashes,
+and was chained; his captor a doti, besides five khete of red
+coral beads for his wife.
+
+That down-pour of rain which visited us the day we crossed the
+Makata proved the last of the Masika season.  As the first rainfall
+which we had experienced occurred on the 23rd March, and the last
+on the 30th April, its duration was thirty-nine days.  The seers of
+Bagamoyo had delivered their vaticinations concerning this same
+Masika with solemnity.  "For forty days," said they, "rain would
+fall incessantly;" whereas we had but experienced eighteen days'
+rain.  Nevertheless, we were glad that it was over, for we were
+tired of stopping day after day to dry the bales and grease the
+tools and ironware, and of seeing all things of cloth and leather
+rot visibly before our eyes.
+
+The 1st of May found us struggling through the mire and water
+of the Makata with a caravan bodily sick, from the exertion and
+fatigue of crossing so many rivers and wading through marshes.
+Shaw was still suffering from his first mukunguru; Zaidi, a
+soldier, was critically ill with the small-pox; the kichuma-chuma,
+"little irons," had hold of Bombay across the chest, rendering
+him the most useless of the unserviceables; Mabruk Saleem, a
+youth of lusty frame, following the example of Bombay, laid
+himself down on the marshy ground, professing his total inability
+to breast the Makata swamp; Abdul Kader, the Hindi tailor and
+adventurer--the weakliest of mortal bodies--was ever ailing for
+lack of "force," as he expressed it in French, i.e. "strength,"
+ever indisposed to work, shiftless, mock-sick, but ever hungry.
+"Oh! God," was the cry of my tired soul, "were all the men of
+my Expedition like this man I should be compelled to return.
+Solomon was. wise perhaps from inspiration, perhaps from
+observation; I was becoming wise by experience, and I was
+compelled to observe that when mud and wet sapped the physical
+energy of the lazily-inclined, a dog-whip became their backs,
+restoring them to a sound--some-times to an extravagant activity.
+
+For thirty miles from our camp was the Makata plain an extensive
+swamp.  The water was on an average one foot in depth; in some
+places we plunged into holes three, four, and even five feet deep.
+Plash, splash, plash, splash, were the only sounds we heard from
+the commencement of the march until we found the bomas occupying
+the only dry spots along the line of march.  This kind of work
+continued for two days, until we came in sight of the Rudewa river,
+another powerful stream with banks brimful of rushing rain-water.
+Crossing a branch of the Rudewa, and emerging from the dank reedy
+grass crowding the western bank, the view consisted of an immense
+sheet of water topped by clumps of grass tufts and foliage of
+thinly scattered trees, bounded ten or twelve miles off by the
+eastern front of the Usagara mountain range.  The acme of
+discomfort and vexation was realized on the five-mile march from
+the Rudewa branch.  As myself and the Wangwana appeared with the
+loaded donkeys, the pagazis were observed huddled on a mound.  When
+asked if the mound was the camp, they replied "No."  "Why, then,
+do you stop here?"--Ugh! water plenty!!"  "One drew a line across
+his loins to indicate the depth of water before us, another drew a
+line  across his chest, another across his throat another held his
+hand over his head, by which he meant that we should have to swim.
+Swim five miles through a reedy marsh!  It was impossible; it was
+also impossible that such varied accounts could all be correct.
+Without hesitation, therefore, I ordered the Wangwana to proceed
+with the animals.  After three hours of splashing through four
+feet of water we reached dry land, and had traversed the swamp
+of Makata.  But not without the swamp with its horrors having
+left a durable impression upon our minds; no one was disposed
+to forget its fatigues, nor the nausea of travel which it almost
+engendered.  Subsequently, we had to remember its passage still
+more vividly, and to regret that we had undertaken the journey
+during the Masika season, when the animals died from this date
+by twos and threes, almost every day, until but five sickly
+worn-out beasts remained; when the Wangwana, soldiers, and
+pagazis sickened of diseases innumerable; when I myself was
+finally compelled to lie a-bed with an attack of acute dysentery
+which brought me to the verge of the grave.  I suffered more,
+perhaps, than I might have done had I taken the proper medicine,
+but my over-confidence in that compound, called "Collis Brown's
+Chlorodyne," delayed the cure which ultimately resulted from
+a judicious use of Dover's powder. In no one single case of
+diarrhoea or acute dysentery had this "Chlorodyne," about which
+so much has been said, and written, any effect of lessening the
+attack whatever, though I used three bottles.  To the dysentery
+contracted during, the transit of the Makata swamp, only two
+fell victims, and those were a pagazi and my poor little dog
+"Omar," my companion from India.
+
+The only tree of any prominence in the Makata valley was the
+Palmyra palm (Borassus flabelliformis), and this grew in some
+places in numbers sufficient to be called a grove; the fruit was
+not ripe while we passed, otherwise we might have enjoyed it as a
+novelty.  The other vegetation consisted of the several species of
+thorn bush, and the graceful parachute-topped and ever-green
+mimosa.
+
+The 4th of May we were ascending a gentle slope towards the
+important village of Rehenneko, the first village near to which we
+encamped in Usagara.  It lay at the foot of the mountain, and its
+plenitude and mountain air promised us comfort and health.  It was
+a square, compact village, surrounded by a thick wall of mud,
+enclosing cone-topped huts, roofed with bamboo and holcus-stalks;
+and contained a population of about a thousand souls.  It has
+several wealthy and populous neighbours, whose inhabitants are
+independent enough in their manner, but not unpleasantly so.
+The streams are of the purest water, fresh, and pellucid as crystal,
+bubbling over round pebbles and clean gravel, with a music
+delightful to hear to the traveller in search of such a sweetly
+potable element.
+
+The bamboo grows to serviceable size in the neighbourhood of
+Rehenneko, strong enough for tent and banghy poles; and in
+numbers sufficient to supply an army.  The mountain slopes are
+densely wooded with trees that might supply very good timber for
+building purposes.
+
+We rested four days at this pleasant spot, to recruit ourselves,
+and to allow the sick and feeble time to recover a little before
+testing their ability in the ascent of the Usagara mountains.
+
+The 8th of May saw us with our terribly jaded men and animals
+winding up the steep slopes of the first line of hills; gaining
+the summit of which we obtained a view remarkably grand, which
+exhibited as in a master picture the broad valley of the Makata,
+with its swift streams like so many cords of silver, as the
+sunshine played on the unshadowed reaches of water, with its
+thousands of graceful palms adding not a little to the charm of the
+scene, with the great wall of the Uruguru and Uswapanga mountains
+dimly blue, but sublime in their loftiness and immensity--forming a
+fit background to such an extensive, far-embracing prospect.
+
+Turning our faces west, we found ourselves in a mountain world,
+fold rising above fold, peak behind peak, cone jostling cone; away
+to the north, to the west, to the south, the mountain tops rolled
+like so many vitrified waves; not one adust or arid spot was
+visible in all this scene.  The diorama had no sudden changes or
+striking contrasts, for a universal forest of green trees clothed
+every peak, cone, and summit.
+
+To the men this first day's march through the mountain region of
+Usagara was an agreeable interlude after the successive journey
+over the flats and heavy undulations of the maritime region, but
+to the loaded and enfeebled animals it was most trying.  We were
+minus two by the time we had arrived at our camp, but seven miles
+from Rehenneko, our first instalment of the debt we owed to Makata.
+Water, sweet and clear, was abundant in the deep hollows of the
+mountains, flowing sometimes over beds of solid granite, sometimes
+over a rich red sandstone, whose soft substance was soon penetrated
+by the aqueous element, and whose particles were swept away
+constantly to enrich the valley below; and in other ravines it
+dashed,, and roared, miniature thunder, as it leaped over granite
+boulders and quartz rock.
+
+The 9th of May, after another such an up-and-down course, ascending
+hills and descending into the twilight depths of deepening
+valleys, we came suddenly upon the Mukondokwa, and its narrow
+pent-up valley crowded with rank reedy grass, cane, and thorny
+bushes; and rugged tamarisk which grappled for existence with
+monster convolvuli, winding their coils around their trunks with
+such tenacity and strength that the tamarisk seemed grown
+but for their support.
+
+The valley was barely a quarter of a mile broad in some places--
+at others it widened to about a mile.  The hills on either side
+shot up into precipitous slopes, clothed ,with mimosa, acacia,
+and tamarisk, enclosing a river and valley whose curves and
+folds were as various as a serpent's.
+
+Shortly after debouching into the Mukondokwa valley, we struck the
+road traversed by Captains Buxton and Speke in 1857, between Mbumi
+and Kadetamare (the latter place should be called Misonghi,
+Kadetamare being but the name of a chief).  After following the
+left bank of the Mukondokwa, during which our route diverged to
+every point from south-east to west, north and northeast, for
+about an hour, we came to the ford.  Beyond the ford, a short
+half-hour's march, we came to Kiora.
+
+At this filthy village of Kiora, which was well-grounded with
+goat-dung, and peopled with a wonderful number of children for a
+hamlet that did not number twenty families, with a hot sun pouring
+on the limited open space, with a fury that exceeded 128 degrees
+Fahrenheit; which swarmed with flies and insects of known and
+unknown species; I found, as I had been previously informed, the
+third caravan, which had started out of Bagamoyo so well fitted
+and supplied.  The leader, who was no other than the white man
+Farquhar, was sick-a-bed with swollen legs (Bright's disease),
+unable to move.
+
+As he heard my voice, Farquhar staggered out of his tent, so
+changed from my spruce mate who started from Bagamoyo, that I
+hardly knew him at first.  His legs were ponderous, elephantine,
+since his leg-illness was of elephantiasis, or dropsy.  His face
+was of a deathly pallor, for he had not been out of his tent for
+two weeks.
+
+A breezy hill, overlooking the village of Kiora, was chosen by me
+for my camping-ground, and as soon as the tents were pitched, the
+animals attended to, and a boma made of thorn bushes, Farquhar was
+carried up by four men into my tent.  Upon being questioned as to
+the cause of his illness, he said he did not know what had caused
+it.  He had no pain, he thought, anywhere.  I asked, "Do you not
+sometimes feel pain on the right side?"--"Yes, I think I do; but
+I don't know."--" Nor over the left nipple sometimes--a quick
+throbbing, with a shortness of breath?"--" Yes, I think I have.
+I know I breathe quick sometimes." He said his only trouble was
+in the legs, which were swollen to an immense size.  Though he
+had a sound appetite, he yet felt weak in the legs.
+
+From the scant information of the disease and its peculiarities,
+as given by Farquhar himself, I could only make out, by studying
+a little medical book I had with me, that "a swelling of the legs,
+and sometimes of the body, might result from either heart, liver,
+or kidney disease."  But I did not know to what to ascribe the
+disease, unless it was to elephantiasis--a disease most common in
+Zanzibar; nor did I know how to treat it in a man who, could not
+tell me whether he felt pain in his head or in his back, in his
+feet or in his chest.
+
+It was therefore fortunate for me that I overtook him at Kiora;
+though he was about to prove a sore incumbrance to me, for he was
+not able to walk, and the donkey-carriage, after the rough
+experience of the Makata valley, was failing.  I could not possibly
+leave him at Kiora, death would soon overtake him there; but how
+long I could convey a man in such a state, through a country
+devoid of carriage, was a question to be resolved by circumstances.
+
+On the 11th of May, the third and fifth caravans, now united,
+followed up the right bank of the Mukondokwa, through fields of
+holcus, the great Mukondokwa ranges rising in higher altitude as
+we proceeded west, and enfolding us in the narrow river valley round
+about.  We left Muniyi Usagara on our right, and soon after found
+hill-spurs athwart our road, which we were obliged to ascend and
+descend.
+
+A march of eight miles from the ford of Misonghi brought us to
+another ford of the Mukondokwa, where we bid a long adieu to
+Burton's road, which led up to the Goma pass and up the steep
+slopes of Rubeho.  Our road left the right bank and followed the
+left over a country quite the reverse of the Mukondokwa Valley,
+enclosed between mountain ranges.  Fertile soils and spontaneous
+vegetation, reeking with miasma and overpowering from their odour,
+we had exchanged for a drouthy wilderness of aloetic and
+cactaceous plants, where the kolquall and several thorn bushes grew
+paramount.
+
+Instead of the tree-clad heights, slopes and valleys, instead of
+cultivated fields, we saw now the confines of uninhabited wilderness.
+The hill-tops were bared of their bosky crowns, and revealed their
+rocky natures bleached white by rain and sun.  Nguru Peak, the
+loftiest of the Usagara cones, stood right shoulderwards of us
+as we ascended the long slope of dun-grey soil which rose beyond
+the brown Mukondokwa on the left.
+
+At the distance of two miles from the last ford, we found a neat
+khambi, situated close to the river, where it first broke into a
+furious rapid.
+
+The next morning the caravan was preparing for the march, when
+I was informed that the "Bana Mdogo"--little master--Shaw, had not
+yet arrived with the cart, and the men in charge of it.  Late the
+previous night I had despatched one donkey for Shaw, who had said
+he was too ill to walk, and another for the load that was on the
+cart; and had retired satisfied that they would soon arrive.  My
+conclusion, when I learned in the morning that the people had not
+yet come in, was that Shaw was not aware that for five days we
+should have to march through a wilderness totally uninhabited.  I
+therefore despatched Chowpereh, a Mgwana soldier, with the following
+note to him:--"You will, upon receipt of this order pitch the
+cart into the nearest ravine, gully, or river, as well as all the
+extra pack saddles; and come at once, for God's sake, for we must
+not starve here!"
+
+One, two, three, and four hours were passed by me in the utmost
+impatience, waiting, but in vain, for Shaw.  Having a long march
+before us, I could wait no longer, but went to meet his party
+myself.  About a quarter of mile from the ford I met the van of
+the laggards--stout burly Chowpereh--and, O cartmakers, listen!
+he carried the cart on his head--wheels, shafts, body, axle,
+and all complete; he having found that carrying it was much
+easier than drawing it.  The sight was such a damper to my regard
+for it as an experiment, that the cart was wheeled into the
+depths of the tall reeds, and there left.  The central figure was
+Shaw himself, riding at a gait which seemed to leave it doubtful on
+my mind whether he or his animal felt most sleepy.  Upon
+expostulating with him for keeping the caravan so long waiting when
+there was a march on hand, in a most peculiar voice--which he always
+assumed when disposed to be ugly-tempered--he said he had done the
+best he could; but as I had seen the solemn pace at which he
+rode, I felt dubious about his best endeavours; and of course
+there was a little scene, but the young European mtongi of an East
+African expedition must needs sup with the fellows he has chosen.
+
+We arrived at Madete at 4 P.M., minus two donkeys, which had
+stretched their weary limbs in death.  We had crossed the
+Mukondokwa about 3 P.M., and after taking its bearings and course,
+I made sure that its rise took place near a group of mountains
+about forty miles north by west of Nguru Peak.  Our road led
+W.N.W., and at this place finally diverged from the river.
+
+On the 14th, after a march of seven miles over hills whose
+sandstone and granite formation cropped visibly here and there
+above the surface, whose stony and dry aspect seemed reflected
+in every bush and plant, and having gained an altitude of about
+eight hundred feet above the flow of the Mukondokwa, we sighted the
+Lake of Ugombo--a grey sheet of water lying directly at the foot
+of the hill, from whose summit we gazed at the scene.  The view was
+neither beautiful nor pretty, but what I should call refreshing;
+it afforded a pleasant relief to the eyes fatigued from dwelling on
+the bleak country around.  Besides, the immediate neighbourhood of
+the lake was too tame to call forth any enthusiasm; there were no
+grandly swelling mountains, no smiling landscapes--nothing but a
+dun-brown peak, about one thousand feet high above the surface of
+the lake at its western extremity, from which the lake derived its
+name, Ugombo; nothing but a low dun-brown irregular range, running
+parallel with its northern shore at the distance of a mile;
+nothing but a low plain stretching from its western shore far away
+towards the Mpwapwa Mountains and Marenga Mkali, then apparent to
+us from our coign of vantage, from which extensive scene of
+dun-brownness we were glad to rest our eyes on the quiet grey
+water beneath.
+
+Descending from the summit of the range, which bounded the lake
+east for about four hundred feet, we travelled along the northern
+shore.  The time occupied in the journey from the eastern to the
+western extremity was exactly one hour and thirty minutes.
+
+As this side represents its greatest length I conclude that the
+lake is three miles long by two miles greatest breadth.  The
+immediate shores of the lake on all sides, for at least fifty
+feet from the water's edge, is one impassable morass nourishing
+rank reeds and rushes, where the hippopotamus' ponderous form has
+crushed into watery trails the soft composition of the morass
+as he passes from the lake on his nocturnal excursions; the
+lesser animals; such as the "mbogo" (buffalo), the "punda-terra"
+(zebra); the " twiga" (giraffe), the boar, the kudu, the
+hyrax or coney and the antelope; come here also to quench
+their thirst by night.  The surface of the lake swarms with an
+astonishing variety of water-fowl; such as black swan, duck,
+ibis sacra cranes, pelicans; and soaring above on the look-out
+for their prey are fish-eagles and hawks, while the neighbourhood
+is resonant with the loud chirps of the guinea-fowls calling for
+their young, with the harsh cry of the toucan, the cooing of the
+pigeon, and the "to-whit, to-whoo" of the owl.  From the long
+grass in its vicinity also issue the grating and loud cry of
+the florican, woodcock, and grouse.
+
+Being obliged to halt here two days, owing to the desertion of the
+Hindi cooper Jako with one of my best carbines, I improved the
+opportunity of exploring the northern and southern shores of the
+lake.  At the rocky foot of a low, humpy hill on the northern
+side, about fifteen feet above the present surface of the water I
+detected in most distinct and definite lines the agency of waves.
+From its base could be traced clear to the edge of the dank morass
+tiny lines of comminuted shell as plainly marked as the small
+particles which lie in rows on a beech after a receding tide.
+There is no doubt that the wave-marks on the sandstone might have
+been traced much higher by one skilled in geology; it was only
+its elementary character that was visible to me.  Nor do I
+entertain the least doubt, after a two days' exploration of the
+neighbourhood, especially of the low plain at the western end,
+that this Lake of Ugombo is but the tail of what was once a large
+body of water equal in extent to the Tanganika; and, after
+ascending half way up Ugombo Peak, this opinion was confirmed when
+I saw the long-depressed line of plain at its base stretching
+towards the Mpwapwa Mountains thirty miles off, and thence round
+to Marenga Mkali, and covering all that extensive surface of forty
+miles in breadth, and an unknown length.  A depth of twelve feet
+more, I thought, as I gazed upon it, would give the lake a length
+of thirty miles, and a breadth of ten.  A depth of thirty
+feet would increase its length over a hundred miles, and give it a
+breadth of fifty, for such was the level nature of the plain that
+stretched west of Ugombo, and north of Marenga Mkali.  Besides the
+water of the lake partook slightly of the bitter nature of the
+Matamombo creek, distant fifteen miles, and in a still lesser
+degree of that of Marenga Mkali, forty miles off.
+
+Towards the end of the first day of our halt the Hindi cooper Jako
+arrived in camp, alleging as an excuse, that feeling fatigued he
+had fallen asleep in some bushes a few feet from the roadside.
+Having been the cause of our detention in the hungry wilderness of
+Ugombo, I was not in a frame of mind to forgive him; so, to
+prevent any future truant tricks on his part, I was under the
+necessity of including him with the chained gangs of runaways.
+
+Two more of our donkeys died, and to prevent any of the valuable
+baggage being left behind, I was obliged to send Farquhar off on my
+own riding-ass to the village of Mpwapwa, thirty miles off, under
+charge of Mabruki Burton.
+
+To save the Expedition from ruin, I was reluctantly compelled to
+come to the conclusion that it were better for me, for him, and
+concerned, that he be left with some kind chief of a village,
+with a six months' supply of cloth and beads, until he got well,
+than that he make his own recovery impossible.
+
+The 16th of May saw us journeying over the plain which lies
+between Ugombo and Mpwapwa, skirting close, at intervals, a low
+range of trap-rock, out of which had become displaced by some
+violent agency several immense boulders.  On its slopes grew the
+kolquall to a size which I had not seen in Abyssinia.  In the plain
+grew baobab, and immense tamarind, and a variety of thorn.
+
+Within five hours from Ugombo the mountain range deflected towards
+the north-east, while we continued on a north-westerly course,
+heading for the lofty mountain-line of the Mpwapwa.  To our left
+towered to the blue clouds the gigantic Rubeho.  The adoption of
+this new road to Unyanyembe by which we were travelling was now
+explained--we were enabled to avoid the passes and stiff steeps of
+Rubeho, and had nothing worse to encounter than a broad smooth
+plain, which sloped gently to Ugogo.
+
+After a march of fifteen miles we camped at a dry mtoni, called
+Matamombo, celebrated for its pools of bitter.  water of the colour
+of ochre.  Monkeys and rhinoceroses, besides kudus, steinboks, and
+antelopes, were numerous in the vicinity.  At this camp my little
+dog "Omar" died of inflammation of the bowels, almost on the
+threshold of the country--Ugogo--where his faithful watchfulness
+would have been invaluable to me.
+
+The next day's march was also fifteen miles in length, through one
+interminable jungle of thorn-bushes.  Within two miles of the camp,
+the road led up a small river bed, broad as an avenue, clear to the
+khambi of Mpwapwa; which was situated close to a number of streams
+of the purest water.
+
+The following morning found us much fatigued after the long marches
+from Ugombo, and generally disposed to take advantage of the
+precious luxuries Mpwapwa offered to caravans fresh from the
+fly-plagued lands of the Waseguhha and Wadoe.  Sheikh Thani--clever
+but innocently-speaking old Arab--was encamped under the grateful
+umbrage of a huge Mtamba sycamore, and had been regaling himself
+with fresh milk, luscious mutton, and rich bullock humps, ever
+since his arrival here, two days before; and, as he informed me,
+it did not suit his views to quit such a happy abundance so soon
+for the saline nitrous water of Marenga Mkali, with its several
+terekezas, and manifold disagreeables.  "No!" said he to me,
+emphatically, "better stop here two or three days, give your tired
+animals some rest; collect all the pagazis you can, fill your inside
+with fresh milk, sweet potatoes, beef, mutton, ghee, honey, beans,
+matama, maweri, and nuts;--then, Inshallah! we shall go together
+through Ugogo without stopping anywhere."  As the advice tallied
+accurately with my own desired and keen appetite for the good
+things he named, he had not long to wait for my assent to his
+counsel.  "Ugogo," continued he, "is rich with milk and honey--
+rich in flour, beans and almost every eatable thing; and,
+Inshallah! before another week is gone we shall be in Ugogo!"
+
+I had heard from passing caravans so many extremely favourable
+reports respecting Ugogo and its productions that it appeared
+to me a very Land of Promise, and I was most anxious to refresh
+my jaded stomach with some of the precious esculents raised in
+Ugogo; but when I heard that Mpwapwa also furnished some of
+those delicate eatables, and good things, most of the morning
+hours were spent in inducing the slow-witted people to part
+with them; and when, finally, eggs, milk, honey, mutton, ghee,
+ground matama and beans had been collected in sufficient
+quantities to produce a respectable meal, my keenest attention
+and best culinary talents were occupied for a couple of hours
+in converting this crude supply into a breakfast which could be
+accepted by and befit a stomach at once fastidious and famished,
+such as mine was.  The subsequent healthy digestion of it proved
+my endeavours to have been eminently successful.  At the
+termination of this eventful day, the following remark was jotted
+down in my diary: "Thank God!  After fifty-seven days of living
+upon matama porridge and tough goat, I have enjoyed with unctuous
+satisfaction a real breakfast and dinner."
+
+It was in one of the many small villages which are situated upon
+the slopes of the Mpwapwa that a refuge and a home for Farquhar
+was found until he should be enabled by restored health to start
+to join us at Unyanyembe.
+
+Food was plentiful and of sufficient variety to suit the most
+fastidious--cheap also, much cheaper than we had experienced for
+many a day.  Leucole, the chief of the village, with whom
+arrangements for Farquhar's protection and comfort were made, was
+a little old man of mild eye and very pleasing face, and on being
+informed that it was intended to leave the Musungu entirely under
+his charge, suggested that some man should be left to wait on him,
+and interpret his wishes to his people.
+
+As Jako was the only one who could speak English, except Bombay
+and Selim, Jako was appointed, and the chief Leucole was satisfied.
+Six months' provisions of white beads, Merikani and Kaniki cloth,
+together with two doti of handsome cloth to serve as a present to
+Leucole after his recovery, were taken to Farquhar by Bombay,
+together with a Starr's carbine, 300 rounds of cartridge, a set of
+cooking pots, and 3 lbs. of tea.
+
+Abdullah bin Nasib, who was found encamped here with five hundred
+pagazis, and a train of Arab and Wasawahili satellites, who
+revolved around his importance, treated me in somewhat the same
+manner that Hamed bin Sulayman treated Speke at Kasenge.  Followed
+by his satellites, he came (a tall nervous-looking man, of fifty
+or thereabouts) to see me in my camp, and asked me if I wished to
+purchase donkeys.  As all my animals were either sick or moribund,
+I replied very readily in the affirmative, upon which he
+graciously said he would sell me as many as I wanted, and for
+payment I could give him a draft on Zanzibar.  I thought him a very
+considerate and kind person, fully justifying the encomiums
+lavished on him in Burton's `Lake Regions of Central Africa,' and
+accordingly I treated him with the consideration due to so great
+and good a man.  The morrow came, and with it went Abdullah bin
+Nasib, or "Kisesa," as he is called by the Wanyamwezi, with all his
+pagazis, his train of followers, and each and every one of his
+donkeys, towards Bagamoyo, without so much as giving a "Kwaheri,"
+or good-bye.
+
+At this place there are generally to be found from ten to thirty
+pagazis awaiting up-caravans.  I was fortunate enough to secure
+twelve good people, who, upon my arrival at Unyanyembe, without
+an exception, voluntarily engaged themselves as carriers to Ujiji.
+With the formidable marches of Marenga Mkali in front, I felt
+thankful for this happy windfall,, which resolved the difficulties
+I had been anticipating; for I had but ten donkeys left, and four
+of these were so enfeebled that they were worthless as baggage
+animals.
+
+Mpwapwa--so called by the Arabs, who have managed to corrupt almost
+every native word--is called "Mbambwa" by the Wasagara.  It is a
+mountain range rising over 6,000 feet above the sea, bounding on
+the north the extensive plain which commences at Ugombo lake, and
+on the east that part of the plain which is called Marenga Mkali,
+which stretches away beyond the borders of Uhumba.  Opposite
+Mpwapwa, at the distance of thirty miles or so, rises the Anak
+peak of Rubeho, with several other ambitious and tall brethren
+cresting long lines of rectilinear scarps, which ascend from the
+plain of Ugombo and Marenga Mkali as regularly as if they had
+been chiselled out by the hands of generations of masons and
+stonecutters.
+
+Upon looking at Mpwapwa's greenly-tinted slopes, dark with many
+a densely-foliaged tree; its many rills flowing sweet and clear,
+nourishing besides thick patches of gum and thorn bush, giant
+sycamore and parachute-topped mimosa, and permitting my
+imagination to picture sweet views behind the tall cones above,
+I was tempted to brave the fatigue of an ascent to the summit.
+Nor was my love for the picturesque disappointed.  One sweep of the
+eyes embraced hundreds of square miles of plain and mountain, from
+Ugombo Peak away to distant Ugogo, and from Rubeho and Ugogo to
+the dim and purple pasture lands of the wild, untamable Wahumba.
+The plain of Ugombo and its neighbour of Marenga Mkali, apparently
+level as a sea, was dotted here and there with "hillocks dropt in
+Nature's careless haste," which appeared like islands amid the dun
+and green expanse.  Where the jungle was dense the colour was green,
+alternating with dark brown; where the plain appeared denuded of
+bush and brake it had a whity-brown appearance, on which the
+passing clouds now and again cast their deep shadows.  Altogether
+this side of the picture was not inviting; it exhibited too
+plainly the true wilderness in its sternest aspect; but perhaps
+the knowledge that in the bosom of the vast plain before me there
+was not one drop of water but was bitter as nitre, and undrinkable
+as urine, prejudiced me against it, The hunter might consider it
+a paradise, for in its depths were all kinds of game to attract his
+keenest instincts; but to the mere traveller it had a stern outlook.
+Nearer, however, to the base of the Mpwapwa the aspect of the plain
+altered.  At first the jungle thinned, openings in the wood
+appeared, then wide and naked clearings, then extensive fields of
+the hardy holcus, Indian corn, and maweri or bajri, with here and
+there a square tembe or village.  Still nearer ran thin lines of
+fresh young grass, great trees surrounded a patch of alluvial
+meadow.  A broad river-bed, containing several rivulets of water,
+ran through the thirsty fields, conveying the vivifying element
+which in this part of Usagara was so scarce and precious.  Down
+to the river-bed sloped the Mpwapwa, roughened in some places by
+great boulders of basalt, or by rock masses, which had parted from
+a precipitous scarp, where clung the kolquall with a sure hold,
+drawing nourishment where every other green thing failed; clad in
+others by the hardy mimosa, which rose like a sloping bank of
+green verdure almost to the summit.  And, happy sight to me so
+long a stranger to it, there were hundreds of cattle grazing,
+imparting a pleasing animation to the solitude of the deep folds
+of the mountain range.
+
+But the fairest view was obtained by looking northward towards the
+dense group of mountains which buttressed the front range, facing
+towards Rubeho.  It was the home of the winds, which starting here
+and sweeping down the precipitous slopes and solitary peaks on the
+western side, and gathering strength as they rushed through the
+prairie-like Marenga Mkali, howled through Ugogo and Unyamwezi with
+the force of a storm, It was also the home of the dews, where
+sprang the clear springs which cheered by their music the bosky
+dells below, and enriched the populous district of Mpwapwa.
+One felt better, stronger, on this breezy height, drinking in the
+pure air and feasting the eyes on such a varied landscape as it
+presented, on spreading plateaus green as lawns, on smooth rounded
+tops, on mountain vales containing recesses which might charm a
+hermit's soul, on deep and awful ravines where reigned a twilight
+gloom, on fractured and riven precipices, on huge fantastically-worn
+boulders which overtopped them, on picturesque tracts which
+embraced all that was wild, and all that was poetical in Nature.
+
+Mpwapwa, though the traveller from the coast will feel grateful for
+the milk it furnished after being so long deprived of it, will be
+kept in mind as a most remarkable place for earwigs.  In my tent
+they might be counted by thousands; in my slung cot they were
+by hundreds; on my clothes they were by fifties; on my neck
+and head they were by scores.  The several plagues of locusts,
+fleas, and lice sink into utter insignificance compared with this
+fearful one of earwigs.  It is true they did not bite, and they
+did not irritate the cuticle, but what their presence and numbers
+suggested was something so horrible that it drove one nearly
+insane to think of it.  Who will come to East Africa without
+reading the experiences of Burton and Speke?  Who is he that
+having read them will not remember with horror the dreadful
+account given by Speke of his encounters with these pests?
+My intense nervous watchfulness alone, I believe, saved me
+from a like calamity.
+
+Second to the earwigs in importance and in numbers were the white
+ants, whose powers of destructiveness were simply awful.  Mats,
+cloth, portmanteaus, clothes, in short, every article I possessed,
+seemed on the verge of destruction, and, as I witnessed their
+voracity, I felt anxious lest my tent should be devoured while
+I slept.  This was the first khambi since leaving the coast where
+their presence became a matter of anxiety; at all other camping
+places hitherto the red and black ants had usurped our attention,
+but at Mpwapwa the red species were not seen, while the black
+were also very scarce.
+
+After a three days' halt at Mpwapwa I decided of a march to
+Marenga Mkali, which should be uninterrupted until we reached Mvumi
+in Ugogo, where I should be inducted into the art of paying tribute
+to the Wagogo chiefs.  The first march to Kisokweh was purposely
+made short, being barely four miles, in order to enable Sheikh
+Thani, Sheikh Hamed, and five or six Wasawahili caravans to come
+up with me at Chunyo on the confines of Marenga Mkali.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.  MARENGA MKALI, UGOGO, AND UYANZI, TO UNYANYEMBE.
+
+Mortality amongst the baggage animals.--The contumacious Wagogo--
+Mobs of Maenads.--Tribute paying.--Necessity of prudence.--Oration
+of the guide.--The genuine "Ugogians."--Vituperative power.--A
+surprised chief.--The famous Mizanza.--Killing hyaenas.--The Greeks
+and Romans of Africa.--A critical moment.--The "elephant's back."--
+The wilderness of Ukimbu.--End of the first stage of the search.--
+Arrival at Unyanyembe.
+
+
+The 22nd of May saw Thani and Hamed's caravans united with my own
+at Chunyo, three and a half hours' march from Mpwapwa.  The road
+from the latter place ran along the skirts of the Mpwapwa range;
+at three or four places it crossed outlying spurs that stood
+isolated from the main body of the range.  The last of these hill
+spurs, joined by an elevated cross ridge to the Mpwapwa, shelters
+the tembe of Chunyo, situated on the western face, from the stormy
+gusts that come roaring down the steep slopes.  The water of Chunyo
+is eminently bad, in fact it is its saline-nitrous nature which has
+given the name Marenga Mkali--bitter water--to the wilderness which
+separates Usagara from Ugogo.  Though extremely offensive to the
+palate, Arabs and the natives drink it without fear, and without
+any bad results; but they are careful to withhold their baggage
+animals from the pits.  Being ignorant of its nature, and not
+exactly understanding what precise location was meant by Marenga
+Mkali, I permitted the donkeys to be taken to water, as usual
+after a march; and the consequence was calamitous in the extreme.
+What the fearful swamp of Makata had spared, the waters of
+Marenga Mkali destroyed.  In less than five days after our
+departure from Chunyo or Marenga Mali, five out of the nine donkeys
+left to me at the time--the five healthiest animals--fell victims.
+
+We formed quite an imposing caravan as we emerged from inhospitable
+Chunyo, in number amounting to about four hundred souls.  We were
+strong in guns, flags, horns, sounding drums and noise.  To Sheikh
+Hamed, by permission of Sheikh Thani, and myself was allotted the
+task of guiding and leading this great caravan through dreaded
+Ugogo; which was a most unhappy selection, as will be seen
+hereafter.
+
+Marenga Mali, over thirty miles across, was at last before us.
+This distance had to be traversed within thirty-six hours, so that
+the fatigue of the ordinary march would be more than doubled by this.
+From Chunyo to Ugogo not one drop of water was to be found.  As a
+large caravan, say over two hundred souls, seldom travels over one
+and three-quarter miles per hour, a march of thirty miles would
+require seventeen hours of endurance without water and but little
+rest.  East Africa generally possessing unlimited quantities of
+water, caravans have not been compelled for lack of the element
+to have recourse to the mushok of India and the khirbeh of Egypt.
+Being able to cross the waterless districts by a couple of long
+marches, they content themselves for the time with a small gourdful,
+and with keeping their imaginations dwelling upon the copious
+quantities they will drink upon arrival at the watering-place.
+
+The march through this waterless district was most monotonous,
+and a dangerous fever attacked me, which seemed to eat into my very
+vitals.  The wonders of Africa that bodied themselves forth in the
+shape of flocks of zebras, giraffes, elands, or antelopes,
+galloping over the jungleless plain, had no charm for me; nor
+could they serve to draw my attention from the severe fit of
+sickness which possessed me.  Towards the end of the first march
+I was not able to sit upon the donkey's back; nor would it do,
+when but a third of the way across the wilderness, to halt until
+the next day; soldiers were therefore detailed to carry me in a
+hammock, and, when the terekeza was performed in the afternoon,
+I lay in a lethargic state, unconscious of all things.  With the
+night passed the fever, and, at 3 o'clock in the morning, when the
+march was resumed, I was booted and spurred, and the recognized
+mtongi of my caravan once more.  At 8 A.M. we had performed the
+thirty-two miles.  The wilderness of Marenga Mkali had been passed
+and we had entered Ugogo, which was at once a dreaded land to my
+caravan, and a Land of Promise to myself.
+
+The transition from the wilderness into this Promised Land was
+very gradual and easy.  Very slowly the jungle thinned, the cleared
+land was a long time appearing, and when it had finally appeared,
+there were no signs of cultivation until we could clearly make out
+the herbage and vegetation on some hill slopes to our right running
+parallel with our route, then we saw timber on the hills, and broad
+acreage under cultivation--and, lo! as we ascended a wave of
+reddish earth covered with tall weeds and cane, but a few feet from
+us, and directly across our path, were the fields of matama and
+grain we had been looking for, and Ugogo had been entered an hour
+before.
+
+The view was not such as I expected.  I had imagined a plateau
+several hundred feet higher than Marenga Mkali, and an expansive
+view which should reveal Ugogo and its characteristics at once.
+But instead, while travelling from the tall weeds which covered
+the clearing which had preceded the cultivated parts, we had entered
+into the depths of the taller matama stalks, and, excepting some
+distant hills near Mvumi, where the Great Sultan lived--the first
+of the tribe to whom we should pay tribute--the view was extremely
+limited.
+
+However, in the neighbourhood of the first village a glimpse at
+some of the peculiar features of Ugogo was obtained, and there
+was a vast plain--now flat, now heaving upwards, here level as a
+table, there tilted up into rugged knolls bristling with scores of
+rough boulders of immense size, which lay piled one above another
+as if the children of a Titanic race had been playing at
+house-building.  Indeed, these piles of rounded, angular, and riven
+rock formed miniature hills of themselves; and appeared as if each
+body had been ejected upwards by some violent agency beneath.
+There was one of these in particular, near Mvumi, which was so
+large, and being slightly obscured from view by the outspreading
+branches of a gigantic baobab, bore such a strong resemblance to
+a square tower of massive dimensions, that for a long time I
+cherished the idea that I had discovered something most
+interesting which had strangely escaped the notice of my
+predecessors in East Africa.  A nearer view dispelled the illusion,
+and proved it to be a huge cube of rock, measuring about forty
+feet each way.  The baobabs were also particularly conspicuous on
+this scene, no other kind of tree being visible in the cultivated
+parts.  These had probably been left for two reasons: first, want
+of proper axes for felling trees of such enormous growth;
+secondly, because during a famine the fruit of the baobab furnishes
+a flour which, in the absence of anything better, is said to be
+eatable and nourishing.
+
+The first words I heard in Ugogo were from a Wagogo elder, of
+sturdy form, who in an indolent way tended the flocks, but showed
+a marked interest in the stranger clad in white flannels, with a
+Hawkes' patent cork solar topee on his head, a most unusual thing
+in Ugogo, who came walking past him, and there were "Yambo, Musungu,
+Yambo, bana, bana," delivered with a voice loud enough to make
+itself heard a full mile away.  No sooner had the greeting
+been delivered than the word "Musungu" seemed to electrify his
+entire village; and the people of other villages, situated at
+intervals near the road, noting the excitement that reigned at
+the first, also participated in the general frenzy which seemed
+suddenly to have possessed them.  I consider my progress from the
+first village to Mvumi to have been most triumphant; for I was
+accompanied by a furious mob of men, women, and children, all
+almost as naked as Mother Eve when the world first dawned upon her
+in the garden of Eden, fighting, quarrelling, jostling, staggering
+against each other for the best view of the white man, the like of
+whom was now seen for the first time in this part of Ugogo.  The
+cries of admiration, such as "Hi-le!" which broke often and in
+confused uproar upon my ear, were not gratefully accepted,
+inasmuch as I deemed many of them impertinent.  A respectful
+silence and more reserved behaviour would have won my esteem;
+but, ye powers, who cause etiquette to be observed in Usungu,*
+respectful silence, reserved behaviour, and esteem are terms
+unknown in savage Ugogo.  Hitherto I had compared myself to a
+merchant of Bagdad travelling among the Kurds of Kurdistan, selling
+his wares of Damascus silk, kefiyehs, &c.; but now I was compelled
+to lower my standard, and thought myself not much better than a
+monkey in a zoological collection.  One of my soldiers requested
+them to lessen their vociferous noise; but the evil-minded race
+ordered him to shut up, as a thing unworthy to speak to the Wagogo!
+When I imploringly turned to the Arabs for counsel in this strait,
+old Sheikh Thani, always worldly wise, said, "Heed them not;
+they are dogs who bite besides barking."
+____________________
+* White man's land.
+_____________________
+
+At 9 A.M. we were in our boma, near Mvumi village; but here also
+crowds of Wagogo came to catch a glimpse of the Musungu, whose
+presence was soon made known throughout the district of Mvumi.
+But two hours later I was oblivious of their endeavours to see me;
+for, despite repeated doses of quinine, the mukunguru had sure hold
+of me.
+
+The next day was a march of eight miles, from East Mvumi to West
+Mvumi, where lived the Sultan of the district.  The quantity and
+variety of provisions which arrived at our boma did not belie the
+reports respecting the productions of Ugogo.  Milk, sour and sweet,
+honey, beans, matama, maweri, Indian corn, ghee, pea-nuts, and a
+species of bean-nut very like a large pistachio or an almond,
+water-melons, pumpkins, mush-melons, and cucumbers were brought,
+and readily exchanged for Merikani, Kaniki, and for the white
+Merikani beads and Sami-Sami, or Sam-Sam.  The trade and barter
+which progressed in the camp from morning till night reminded me
+of the customs existing among the Gallas and Abyssinians.
+Eastward, caravans were obliged to despatch men with cloth, to
+purchase from the villagers.  This was unnecessary in Ugogo, where
+the people voluntarily brought every vendible they possessed to
+the camp.  The smallest breadth of white or blue cloth became
+saleable and useful in purchasing provisions--even a loin-cloth
+worn threadbare.
+
+The day after our march was a halt.  We had fixed this day for
+bearing the tribute to the Great Sultan of Mvumi.  Prudent and
+cautious Sheikh Thani early began this important duty, the
+omission of which would have been a signal for war.  Hamed and
+Thani sent two faithful slaves, well up to the eccentricities of
+the Wagogo sultans--well spoken, having glib tongues and the real
+instinct for trade as carried on amongst Orientals.  They bore six
+doti of cloths, viz., one doti of Dabwani Ulyah contributed by
+myself, also one doti of Barsati from me, two doti Merikani Satine
+from Sheikh Thani, and two doti of Kaniki from Sheikh Hamed, as a
+first instalment of the tribute.  The slaves were absent a full
+hour, but having wasted their powers of pleading, in vain, they
+returned with the demand for more, which Sheikh Thani communicated
+to me in this wise:
+
+"Auf! this Sultan is a very bad man--a very bad man indeed;
+he says, the Musungu is a great man, I call him a sultan; the
+Musungu is very rich, for he has several caravans already gone
+past; the Musungu must pay forty doti, and the Arabs must pay
+twelve doti each, for they have rich caravans.  It is of no use
+for you to tell me you are all one caravan, otherwise why so many
+flags and tents?  Go and bring me sixty doti, with less I will
+not be satisfied."
+
+I suggested to Sheikh Thani, upon hearing this exorbitant demand,
+that had I twenty Wasungu* armed with Winchester repeating rifles,
+the Sultan might be obliged to pay tribute to me; but Thani
+prayed and begged me to be cautious lest angry words might
+irritate the Sultan and cause him to demand a double tribute, as he
+was quite capable of doing so; "and if you preferred war," said
+he, "your pagazis would all desert, and leave you and your cloth
+to the small mercy of the Wagogo."  But I hastened to allay his
+fears by telling Bombay, in his presence, that I had foreseen such
+demands on the part of the Wagogo, and that having set aside one
+hundred and twenty doti of honga cloths, I should not consider
+myself a sufferer if the Sultan demanded and I paid forty cloths
+to him; that he must therefore open the honga bale, and permit
+Sheikh Thani to extract such cloths as the Sultan might like.
+
+Sheikh Thani, having put on the cap of consideration and joined
+heads with Hamed and the faithful serviles, thought if I paid
+twelve doti, out of which three should be of Ulyah+  quality,
+that the Sultan might possibly condescend to accept our tribute;
+supposing he was persuaded by the oratorical words of the "Faithfuls,"
+that the Musungu had nothing with him but the mashiwa (boat),
+which would be of no use to him, come what might,--with which
+prudent suggestion the Musungu concurred, seeing its wisdom.
+______________________
+* White men.
++ Best, or superior.
+_____________________
+
+The slaves departed, bearing this time from our boma thirty doti,
+with our best wishes for their success.  In an hour they returned
+with empty hands, but yet unsuccessful.  The Sultan demanded six
+doti of Merikani, and a fundo of bubu, from the Musungu; and from
+the Arabs and other caravans, twelve doti more.  For the third time
+the slaves departed for the Sultan's tembe, carrying with them six
+doti Merikani and a fundo of bubu from myself, and ten doti from
+the Arabs.  Again they returned to us with the Sultan's words,
+"That, as the doti of the Musungu were short measure, and the cloths
+of the Arabs of miserable quality, the Musungu must send three doti
+full measure, and the Arabs five doti of Kaniki."  My three doti
+were at once measured out with the longest fore-arm--according
+to Kigogo measure--and sent off by Bombay; but the Arabs, almost
+in despair, declared they would be ruined if they gave way to such
+demands, and out of the five doti demanded sent only two, with a
+pleading to the Sultan that he would consider what was paid as
+just and fair Muhongo, and not ask any more.  But the Sultan of
+Mvumi was by no means disposed to consider any such proposition,
+but declared he must have three doti, and these to be two of Ulyah
+cloth, and one Kitambi Barsati, which, as he was determined to
+obtain, were sent to him heavy with the deep maledictions of
+Sheikh Hamed and the despairing sighs of sheikh Thani.
+
+Altogether the sultanship of a district in Ugogo must be very
+remunerative, besides being a delightful sinecure, so long as the
+Sultan has to deal with timid Arab merchants who fear to exhibit
+anything approaching to independence and self-reliance, lest they
+might be mulcted in cloth.  In one day from one camp the sultan
+received forty-seven doti, consisting of Merikani, Kaniki, Barsati,
+and Dabwani, equal to $35.25, besides seven doti of superior
+cloths, consisting of Rehani, Sohari, and Daobwani Ulyah, and one
+fundo of Bubu, equal to $14.00, making a total of $49.25--a most
+handsome revenue for a Mgogo chief.
+
+On the 27th May we gladly shook the dust of Mvumi from our feet,
+and continued on our route--ever westward.  Five of my donkeys had
+died the night before, from the effects of the water of Marenga
+Mkali.  Before leaving the camp of Mvumi, I went to look at their
+carcases; but found them to have been clean picked by the
+hyaenas, and the bones taken possession of by an army of
+white-necked crows.
+
+As we passed the numerous villages, and perceived the entire face
+of the land to be one vast field of grain, and counted the people
+halted by scores on the roadside to feast their eyes with a greedy
+stare on the Musungu, I no longer wondered at the extortionate
+demands of the Wagogo.  For it was manifest that they had but to
+stretch out their hands to possess whatever the wealth of a caravan
+consisted of; and I began to think better of the people who,
+knowing well their strength, did not use it--of people who were
+intellectual enough to comprehend that their interest lay in
+permitting the caravans to pass on without attempting any outrage.
+
+Between Mvumi and the nest Sultan's district, that of Matamburu,
+I counted no less than twenty-five villages, scattered over the
+clayey, coloured plain.  Despite the inhospitable nature of
+the plain, it was better cultivated than any part of any other
+country we had seen since leaving Bagamoyo.
+
+When we had at last arrived at our boma of Matamburu, the same
+groups of curious people, the same eager looks, the same
+exclamations of surprise, the same, peals of laughter, at something
+they deemed ludicrous in the Musungu's dress or manner, awaited
+us, as at Mvumi.  The Arabs being "Wakonongo" travellers, whom
+they saw every day, enjoyed a complete immunity from the
+vexations which we had to endure.
+
+The Sultan of Matamburu, a man of herculean form, and massive
+head well set on shoulders that might vie with those of Milo,
+proved to be a very reasonable person.  Not quite so powerful as
+the Sultan of Mvumi, he yet owned a fair share of Ugogo and about
+forty villages, and could, if he chose, have oppressed the
+mercantile souls of my Arab companions, in the same way as he of
+Mvumi.  Four doti of cloth were taken to him as a preliminary
+offering to his greatness, which he said he would accept, if the
+Arabs and Musungu would send him four more.  As his demands were so
+reasonable, this little affair was soon terminated to everybody's
+satisfaction; and soon after, the kirangozi of Sheikh Hamed
+sounded the signal for the morrow's march.
+
+At the orders of the same Sheikh, the kirangozi stood up to speak
+before the assembled caravans.  "Words, words, from the Bana," he
+shouted.  "Give ear, kirangozis!  Listen, children of Unyamwezi!
+The journey is for to-morrow!  The road is crooked and bad, bad!
+The jungle is there, and many Wagogo lie hidden within it!
+Wagogo spear the pagazis, and cut the throats of those who carry
+mutumba (bales) and ushanga (beads)!  The Wagogo have been to our
+camp, they have seen your bales; to-night they seek the jungle:
+to-morrow watch well, O Wanyamwezi!  Keep close together, lag not
+behind!  Kirangozis walk slow, that the weak, the sick, and the
+young may keep up with the strong!  Take two rests on the journey!
+These are the words of the Bana (master).  Do you hear them,
+Wanyamwezi?  (A loud shout in the affirmative from all.)  Do you
+understand them well? (another chorus); then Bas;" having said
+which, the eloquent kirangozi retired into the dark night, and
+his straw hut.
+
+The march to Bihawana, our next camp, was rugged and long, through
+a continuous jungle of gums and thorns, up steep hills and finally
+over a fervid plain, while the sun waxed hotter and hotter as it
+drew near the meridian, until it seemed to scorch all vitality
+from inanimate nature, while the view was one white blaze,
+unbearable to the pained sight, which sought relief from the glare
+in vain.  Several sandy watercourses, on which were impressed many
+a trail of elephants, were also passed on this march.  The slope of
+these stream-beds trended south-east and south.
+
+In the middle of this scorching plain stood the villages of
+Bihawana, almost undistinguishable, from the extreme lowness of
+the huts, which did not reach the height of the tall bleached grass
+which stood smoking in the untempered heat.
+
+Our camp was in a large boma, about a quarter of a mile from the
+Sultan's tembe.  Soon after arriving at the camp, I was visited by
+three Wagogo, who asked me if I had seen a Mgogo on the road with a
+woman and child.  I was about to answer, very innocently, "Yes,"
+when Mabruki--cautious and watchful always for the interests of the
+master--requested me not to answer, as the Wagogo, as customary,
+would charge me with having done away with them, and would require
+their price from me.  Indignant at the imposition they were about
+to practise upon me, I was about to raise my whip to flog them out
+of the camp, when again Mabruki, with a roaring voice, bade me
+beware, for every blow would cost me three or four doti of cloth.
+As I did not care to gratify my anger at such an expense, I was
+compelled to swallow my wrath, and consequently the Wagogo
+escaped chastisement.
+
+We halted for one day at this place, which was a great relief to
+me, as I was suffering severely from intermittent fever, which
+lasted in this case two weeks, and entirely prevented my posting
+my diary in full, as was my custom every evening after a march.
+
+The Sultan of Bihawana, though his subjects were evil-disposed, and
+ready-handed at theft and murder, contented himself with three doti
+as honga.  From this chief I received news of my fourth caravan,
+which had distinguished itself in a fight with some outlawed
+subjects of his; my soldiers had killed two who had attempted,
+after waylaying a couple of my pagazis, to carry away a bale of
+cloth and a bag of beads; coming up in time, the soldiers
+decisively frustrated the attempt.  The Sultan thought that if all
+caravans were as well guarded as mine were, there would be less
+depredations committed on them while on the road; with which I
+heartily agreed.
+
+The next sultan's tembe through whose territory we marched, this
+being on the 30th May, was at Kididimo, but four miles from Bihawna.
+The road led through a flat elongated plain, lying between two
+lengthy hilly ridges, thickly dotted with the giant forms of the
+baobab.  Kididimo is exceedingly bleak in aspect.  Even the faces
+of the Wagogo seemed to have contracted a bleak hue from the general
+bleakness around.  The water of the pits obtained in the
+neighbourhood had an execrable flavor, and two donkeys sickened and
+died in less than an hour from its effects.  Man suffered nausea
+and a general irritability of the system, and accordingly revenged
+himself by cursing the country and its imbecile ruler most heartily.
+The climax came, however, when Bombay reported, after an attempt to
+settle the Muhongo, that the chief's head had grown big since he
+heard that the Musungu had come, and that its "bigness" could not
+be reduced unless he could extract ten doti as tribute.  Though
+the demand was large, I was not in a humour--being feeble, and
+almost nerveless, from repeated attacks of the Mukunguru--to
+dispute the sum: consequently it was paid without many words.
+But the Arabs continued the whole afternoon negotiating, and at
+the end had to pay eight doti each.
+
+Between Kididimo and Nyambwa, the district of the Sultan Pembera
+Pereh, was a broad and lengthy forest and jungle inhabited by the
+elephant, rhinoceros, zebra, deer, antelope, and giraffe.  Starting
+at dawn of the 31st; we entered the jungle, whose dark lines and
+bosky banks were clearly visible from our bower at Kididimo;
+and, travelling for two hours, halted for rest and breakfast, at
+pools of sweet water surrounded by tracts of vivid green verdure,
+which were a great resort for the wild animals of the jungle, whose
+tracks were numerous and recent.  A narrow nullah, shaded deeply
+with foliage, afforded excellent retreats from the glaring
+sunshine.  At meridian, our thirst quenched, our hunger satisfied,
+our gourds refilled, we set out from the shade into the heated blaze
+of hot noon.  The path serpentined in and out of jungle, and thin
+forest, into open tracts of grass bleached white as stubble, into
+thickets of gums and thorns, which emitted an odour as rank as a
+stable; through clumps of wide-spreading mimosa and colonies of
+baobab, through a country teeming with noble game, which, though we
+saw them frequently, were yet as safe from our rifles as if we had
+been on the Indian Ocean.  A terekeza, such as we were now making,
+admits of no delay.  Water we had left behind at noon: until noon
+of the next day not a drop was to be obtained; and unless we
+marched fast and long on this day, raging thirst would demoralize
+everybody.  So for six long weary hours we toiled bravely; and at
+sunset we camped, and still a march of two hours, to be done before
+the sun was an hour high, intervened between us and our camp at
+Nyambwa.  That night the men bivouacked under the trees, surrounded
+by many miles of dense forest, enjoying the cool night unprotected
+by hat or tent, while I groaned and tossed throughout the night in
+a paroxysm of fever.
+
+The morn came; and, while it was yet young, the long caravan, or
+string of caravans, was under way.  It was the same forest,
+admitting, on the narrow line which we threaded, but one man at a
+time.  Its view was as limited.  To our right and left the forest
+was dark and deep.  Above was a riband of glassy sky flecked by
+the floating nimbus.  We heard nothing save a few stray notes from
+a flying bird, or the din of the caravans as the men sang, or
+hummed, or conversed, or shouted, as the thought struck them that
+we were nearing water.  One of my pagazis, wearied and sick, fell,
+and never rose again.  The last of the caravan passed him before
+he died.
+
+At 7 A.M. we were encamped at Nyambwa, drinking the excellent
+water found here with the avidity of thirsty camels.  Extensive
+fields of grain had heralded the neighbourhood of the villages,
+at the sight of which we were conscious that the caravan was
+quickening its pace, as approaching its halting-place.  As the
+Wasungu drew within the populated area, crowds of Wagogo used their
+utmost haste to see them before they passed by.  Young and old of
+both genders pressed about us in a multitude--a very howling mob.
+This excessive demonstrativeness elicited from my sailor overseer
+the characteristic remark, " Well, I declare, these must be the
+genuine Ugogians, for they stare! stare--there is no end to their
+staring.  I'm almost tempted to slap 'em in the face!" In fact,
+the conduct of the Wagogo of Nyambwa was an exaggeration of the
+general conduct of Wagogo.  Hitherto, those we had met had
+contented themselves with staring and shouting; but these outstepped
+all bounds, and my growing anger at their excessive insolence
+vented itself in gripping the rowdiest of them by the neck, and
+before he could recover from his astonishment administering a sound
+thrashing with my dog-whip, which he little relished.  This
+proceeding educed from the tribe of starers all their native power
+of vituperation and abuse, in expressing which they were peculiar.
+Approaching in manner to angry tom-cats, they jerked their words
+with something of a splitting hiss and a half bark.  The ejaculation,
+as near as I can spell it phonetically, was "hahcht" uttered in a
+shrill crescendo tone.  They paced backwards and forwards, asking
+themselves, "Are the Wagoga to be beaten like slaves by this Musungu?
+A Mgogo is a Mgwana (a free man); he is not used to be beaten,--
+hahcht."  But whenever I made motion, flourishing my whip,
+towards them, these mighty braggarts found it convenient to move
+to respectable distances from the irritated Musungu.
+
+Perceiving that a little manliness and show of power was something
+which the Wagogo long needed, and that in this instance it relieved
+me from annoyance, I had recourse to my whip, whose long lash
+cracked like a pistol shot, whenever they overstepped moderation.
+So long as they continued to confine their obtrusiveness to
+staring, and communicating to each other their opinions respecting
+my complexion, and dress, and accoutrements, I philosophically
+resigned myself in silence for their amusement; but when they
+pressed on me, barely allowing me to proceed, a few vigorous and
+rapid slashes right and left with my serviceable thong, soon
+cleared the track.
+
+Pembera Pereh is a queer old man, very small, and would be very
+insignificant were he not the greatest sultan in Ugogo; and
+enjoying a sort of dimediate power over many other tribes.
+Though such an important chief, he is the meanest dressed of
+his subjects,--is always filthy,--ever greasy--eternally foul
+about the mouth; but these are mere eccentricities: as a wise
+judge, he is without parallel, always has a dodge ever ready for
+the abstraction of cloth from the spiritless Arab merchants, who
+trade with Unyanyembe every year; and disposes with ease of a
+judicial case which would overtask ordinary men.
+
+Sheikh Hamed, who was elected guider of the united caravans now
+travelling through Ugogo, was of such a fragile and small make,
+that he might be taken for an imitation of his famous prototype
+"Dapper."  Being of such dimensions, what he lacked for weight
+and size he made up by activity.  No sooner had he arrived in
+camp than his trim dapper form was seen frisking about from side
+to side of the great boma, fidgeting, arranging, disturbing
+everything and everybody.  He permitted no bales or packs to be
+intermingled, or to come into too close proximity to his own;
+he had a favourite mode of stacking his goods, which he would
+see carried out; he had a special eye for the best place for
+his tent, and no one else must trespass on that ground.  One
+would imagine that walking ten or fifteen miles a day, he would
+leave such trivialities to his servants, but no, nothing could
+be right unless he had personally superintended it; in which
+work he was tireless and knew no fatigue.
+
+Another not uncommon peculiarity pertained to Sheikh Hamed; as
+he was not a rich man, he laboured hard to make the most of every
+shukka and doti expended, and each fresh expenditure seemed to
+gnaw his very vitals: he was ready to weep, as he himself
+expressed it, at the high prices of Ugogo, and the extortionate
+demands of its sultans.  For this reason, being the leader of
+the caravans, so far as he was able we were very sure not to
+be delayed in Ugogo, where food was so dear.
+
+The day we arrived at Nyambwa will be remembered by Hamed as long
+as he lives, for the trouble and vexation which he suffered.  His
+misfortunes arose from the fact that, being too busily engaged in
+fidgeting about the camp, he permitted his donkeys to stray into
+the matama fields of Pembera Pereh, the Sultan.  For hours he and
+his servants sought for the stray donkeys, returning towards
+evening utterly unsuccessful, Hamed bewailing, as only an
+Oriental can do, when hard fate visits him with its inflictions,
+the loss of a hundred do dollars worth of Muscat donkeys.
+Sheikh Thani, older, more experienced, and wiser, suggested to
+him that he should notify the Sultan of his loss.  Acting upon
+the sagacious advice, Hamed sent an embassy of two slaves, and
+the information they brought back was, that Pembera Pereh's
+servants had found the two donkeys eating the unripened matama,
+and that unless the Arab who owned them would pay nine doti of
+first-class cloths, he, Pembera Pereh, would surely keep them
+to remunerate him for the matama they had eaten.  Hamed was
+in despair.  Nine doti of first-class cloths, worth $25 in
+Unyanyembe, for half a chukka's worth of grain, was, as he thought,
+an absurd demand; but then if he did not pay it, what would
+become of the hundred dollars' worth of donkeys?  He proceeded to
+the Sultan to show him the absurdity of the damage claim, and to
+endeavour to make him accept one chukka, which would be more than
+double the worth of what grain the donkeys had consumed.  But the
+Sultan was sitting on pombe; he was drunk, which I believe to be
+his normal state--too drunk to attend to business, consequently his
+deputy, a renegade Mnyamwezi, gave ear to the business.  With most
+of the Wagogo chiefs lives a Mnyamwezi, as their right-hand man,
+prime minister, counsellor, executioner, ready man at all things
+save the general good; a sort of harlequin Unyamwezi, who is such
+an intriguing, restless, unsatisfied person, that as soon as one
+hears that this kind of man forms one of and the chief of a Mgogo
+sultan's council, one feels very much tempted to do damage to his
+person.  Most of the extortions practised upon the Arabs are
+suggested by these crafty renegades.  Sheikh Hamed found that
+the Mnyamwezi was far more obdurate than the Sultan--nothing under
+nine doti first-class cloths would redeem the donkeys.  The
+business that day remained unsettled, and the night following
+was, as one may imagine, a very sleepless one to Hamed.  As it
+turned out, however, the loss of the donkeys, the after heavy fine,
+and the sleepless night, proved to be blessings in disguise; for,
+towards midnight, a robber Mgogo visited his camp, and while
+attempting to steal a bale of cloth, was detected in the act
+by the wide-awake and irritated Arab, and was made to vanish
+instantly with a bullet whistling in close proximity to his ear.
+
+From each of the principals of the caravans, the Mnyamwezi had
+received as tribute for his drunken master fifteen doti, and from
+the other six caravans six doti each, altogether fifty-one doti,
+yet on the next morning when we took the road he was not a whit
+disposed to deduct a single cloth from the fine imposed on Hamed,
+and the unfortunate Sheikh was therefore obliged to liquidate the
+claim, or leave his donkeys behind.
+
+After travelling through the corn-fields of Pembera Pereh we
+emerged upon a broad flat plain, as level as the still surface of
+a pond, whence the salt of the Wagogo is obtained.  From Kanyenyi
+on the southern road, to beyond the confines of Uhumba and Ubanarama,
+this saline field extends, containing many large ponds of salt
+bitter water whose low banks are covered with an effervescence
+partaking of the nature of nitrate.  Subsequently, two days
+afterwards, having ascended the elevated ridge which separates
+Ugogo from Uyanzi, I obtained a view of this immense saline plain,
+embracing over a hundred square miles.  I may have been deceived,
+but I imagined I saw large expanses of greyish-blue water,
+which causes me to believe that this salina is but a corner of a
+great salt lake.  The Wahumba, who are numerous, from Nyambwa to
+the Uyanzi border, informed my soldiers that there was a "Maji
+Kuba" away to the north.
+
+Mizanza, our next camp after Nyambwa, is situated in a grove of
+palms, about thirteen miles from the latter place.  Soon after
+arriving I had to bury myself under blankets, plagued with the
+same intermittent fever which first attacked me during the transit
+of Marenga Mkali.  Feeling certain that one day's halt, which would
+enable me to take regular doses of the invaluable sulphate of
+quinine, would cure me, I requested Sheikh Thani to tell Hamed to
+halt on the morrow, as I should be utterly unable to continue thus
+long, under repeated attacks of a virulent disease which was fast
+reducing me into a mere frame of skin and bone.  Hamed, in a hurry
+to arrive at Unyanyembe in order to dispose of his cloth before
+other caravans appeared in the market, replied at first that he
+would not, that he could not, stop for the Musungu.  Upon Thani's
+reporting his answer to me, I requested him to inform Hamed that,
+as the Musungu did not wish to detain him, or any other caravan,
+it was his express wish that Hamed would march and leave him,
+as he was quite strong enough in guns to march through Ugogo
+alone.  Whatever cause modified the Sheikh's resolution and his
+anxiety to depart, Hamed's horn signal for the march was not
+heard that night, and on the morrow he had not gone.
+
+Early in the morning I commenced on my quinine doses; at 6 A.M.
+I took a second dose; before noon I had taken four more--
+altogether, fifty measured grains-the effect of which was
+manifest in the copious perspiration which drenched flannels,
+linen, and blankets.  After noon I arose, devoutly thankful
+that the disease which had clung to me for the last fourteen
+days had at last succumbed to quinine.
+
+On this day the lofty tent, and the American flag which ever flew
+from the centre pole, attracted the Sultan of Mizanza towards it,
+and was the cause of a visit with which he honoured me.  As he was
+notorious among the Arabs for having assisted Manwa Sera in his war
+against Sheikh Sny bin Amer, high eulogies upon whom have been
+written by Burton, and subsequently by Speke, and as he was the
+second most powerful chief in Ugogo, of course he was quite a
+curiosity to me.  As the tent-door was uplifted that he might
+enter, the ancient gentleman was so struck with astonishment at
+the lofty apex, and internal arrangements, that the greasy Barsati
+cloth which formed his sole and only protection against the chills
+of night and the heat of noon, in a fit of abstraction was
+permitted to fall down to his feet, exposing to the Musungu's
+unhallowed gaze the sad and aged wreck of what must once have been
+a towering form.  His son, a youth of about fifteen, attentive to
+the infirmities of his father, hastened with filial duty to remind
+him of his condition, upon which, with an idiotic titter at the
+incident, he resumed his scanty apparel and sat down to wonder and
+gibber out his admiration at the tent and the strange things which
+formed the Musungu's personal baggage and furniture.  After gazing
+in stupid wonder at the table, on which was placed some crockery
+and the few books I carried with me; at the slung hammock, which
+he believed was suspended by some magical contrivance; at the
+portmanteaus which contained my stock of clothes, he ejaculated,
+"Hi-le! the Musungu is a great sultan, who has come from his
+country to see Ugogo."  He then noticed me, and was again wonder-
+struck at my pale complexion and straight hair, and the question
+now propounded was, "How on earth was I white when the sun had
+burned his people's skins into blackness?" Whereupon he was
+shown my cork topee, which he tried on his woolly head, much
+to his own and to our amusement.  The guns were next shown to
+him; the wonderful repeating rifle of the Winchester Company,
+which was fired thirteen times in rapid succession to demonstrate
+its remarkable murderous powers.  If he was astonished before
+he was a thousand times more so now, and expressed his belief
+that the Wagogo could not stand before the Musungu in battle,
+for wherever a Mgogo was seen such a gun would surely kill him.
+Then the other firearms were brought forth, each with its
+peculiar mechanism explained, until, in, a burst of enthusiasm
+at my riches and power, he said he would send me a sheep or goat,
+and that he would be my brother.  I thanked him for the honour,
+and promised to accept whatever he was pleased to send me.  At
+the instigation of Sheikh Thani, who acted as interpreter, who
+said that Wagogo chiefs must not depart with empty hands, I cut
+off a shukka of Kaniki and presented it to him, which, after
+being examined and measured, was refused upon the ground that,
+the Musungu being a great sultan should not demean himself so much
+as to give him only a shukka.  This, after the twelve doti
+received as muhongo from the caravans, I thought, was rather
+sore; but as he was about to present me with a sheep or goat
+another shukka would not matter much.
+
+Shortly after he departed, and true to his promise, I received
+a large, fine sheep, with a broad tail, heavy with fat; but with
+the words, :"That being now his brother, I must send him three
+doti of good cloth." As the price of a sheep is but a doti and
+a half, I refused the sheep and the fraternal honour, upon the
+ground that the gifts were all on one side; and that, as I had
+paid muhongo, and given him a doti of Kaniki as a present, I
+could not, afford to part with any more cloth without an
+adequate return.
+
+During the afternoon one more of my donkeys died, and at night the
+hyaenas came in great numbers to feast upon the carcase.  Ulimengo,
+the chasseur, and best shot of my Wangwana, stole out and succeeded
+in shooting two, which turned out to be some of the largest of
+their kind..  One of them measured six feet from the tip of the
+nose to the extremity of the tail, and three feet around the
+girth.
+
+On the 4th. June we struck camp, and after travelling westward for
+about three miles, passing several ponds of salt water, we headed
+north by west, skirting the range of low hills which separates
+Ugogo from Uyanzi.
+
+After a three hours' march, we halted for a short time at Little
+Mukondoku, to settle tribute with the brother of him who rules at
+Mukondoku Proper.  Three doti satisfied the Sultan, whose
+district contains but two villages, mostly occupied by pastoral
+Wahumba and renegade Wahehe.  The Wahumba live in plastered
+(cow-dung) cone huts, shaped like the tartar tents of Turkestan.
+
+The Wahumba, so far as I have seen them, are a fine and well-formed
+race.  The men are positively handsome, tall, with small heads,
+the posterior parts of which project considerably.  One will look
+in vain for a thick lip or a flat nose amongst them; on the
+contrary, the mouth is exceedingly well cut, delicately small;
+the nose is that of the Greeks, and so universal was the peculiar
+feature, that I at once named them the Greeks of Africa.  Their
+lower limbs have not the heaviness of the Wagogo and other tribes,
+but are long and shapely, clean as those of an antelope.  Their
+necks are long and slender, on which their small heads are poised
+most gracefully.  Athletes from their youth, shepherd bred, and
+intermarrying among themselves, thus keeping the race pure, any
+of them would form a fit subject for the sculptor who would wish
+to immortalize in marble an Antinous, a Hylas, a Daphnis, or an
+Apollo.  The women are as beautiful as the men are handsome.
+They have clear ebon skins, not coal-black, but of an inky hue.
+Their ornaments consist of spiral rings of brass pendent from the
+ears, brass ring collars about the necks, and a spiral cincture
+of brass wire about their loins for the purpose of retaining
+their calf and goat skins, which are folded about their bodies,
+and, depending from the shoulder, shade one half of the bosom,
+and fall to the knees.
+
+The Wahehe may be styled the Romans of Africa.  Resuming our
+march, after a halt of an hour, in foul hours more we arrived at
+Mukondoku Proper.  This extremity of Ugogo is most populous, The
+villages which surround the central tembe, where the Sultan Swaruru
+lives, amount to thirty-six.  The people who flocked from these to
+see the wonderful men whose faces were white, who wore the most
+wonderful things on their persons, and possessed the most wonderful
+weapons; guns which "bum-bummed" as fast as you could count on
+your fingers, formed such a mob of howling savages, that I for an
+instant thought there was something besides mere curiosity which
+caused such commotion, and attracted such numbers to the roadside.
+Halting, I asked what was the matter, and what they wanted, and
+why they made such noise?  One burly rascal, taking my words for
+a declaration of hostilities, promptly drew his bow, but as
+prompt as he had fixed his arrow my faithful Winchester with
+thirteen shots in the magazine was ready and at the shoulder,
+and but waited to see the arrow fly to pour the leaden messengers
+of death into the crowd.  But the crowd vanished as quickly as
+they had come, leaving the burly Thersites, and two or three
+irresolute fellows of his tribe, standing within pistol range
+of my levelled rifle.  Such a sudden dispersion of the mob which,
+but a moment before, was overwhelming in numbers, caused me to
+lower my rifle, and to indulge in a hearty laugh at the disgraceful
+flight of the men-destroyers.  The Arabs, who were as much
+alarmed at their boisterous obtrusiveness, now came up to patch
+a truce, in which they succeeded to everybody's satisfaction.
+A few words of explanation, and the mob came back in greater
+numbers than before; and the Thersites who had been the cause
+of the momentary disturbance was obliged to retire abashed
+before the pressure of public opinion.  A chief now came up,
+whom I afterwards learned was the second man to Swaruru, and
+lectured the people upon their treatment of the "White Stranger."
+
+"Know ye not, Wagogo," shouted he, "that this Musungu is a
+sultan (mtemi--a most high title).  He has not come to Ugogo
+like the Wakonongo (Arabs), to trade in ivory, but to see us,
+and give presents.  Why do you molest him and his people?
+Let them pass in peace.  If you wish to see him, draw near,
+but do not mock him.  The first of you who creates a disturbance,
+let him beware; our great mtemi shall know how you treat his
+friends."  This little bit of oratorical effort on the part of
+the chief was translated to me there and then by the old Sheik
+Thani; which having understood, I bade the Sheikh inform the
+chief that, after I had rested, I should like him to visit me
+in my tent.
+
+Having arrived at the khambi, which always surrounds some great
+baobab in Ugogo, at the distance of about half a mile from the
+tembe of the Sultan, the Wagogo pressed in such great numbers to
+the camp that Sheikh Thani resolved to make an effort to stop or
+mitigate the nuisance.  Dressing himself in his best clothes, he
+went to appeal to the Sultan for protection against his people.
+The Sultan was very much inebriated, and was pleased to say,
+"What is it you want, you thief?  You have come to steal my
+ivory or my cloth.  Go away, thief!"  But the sensible chief,
+whose voice had just been heard reproaching the people for their
+treatment of the Wasungu, beckoned to Thani to come out of the
+tembe, and then proceeded with him towards the khambi.
+
+The camp was in a great uproar; the curious Wagogo monopolized
+almost every foot of ground; there was no room to turn anywhere.
+The Wanyamwezi were quarreling with the Wagogo, the Wasawahili
+servants were clamoring loud that the Wagogo pressed down their
+tents, and that the property of the masters was in danger; while
+I, busy on my diary within my tent, cared not how great was the
+noise and confusion outside as long as it confined itself to the
+Wagogo, Wanyamwezi, and Wangwana.
+
+The presence of the chief in the camp was followed by a deep
+silence that I was prevailed upon to go outside to see what had
+caused it.  The chief's words were few, and to the point.  He said,
+"To your tembes, Wagogo--to your tembes!  Why, do you come to
+trouble the Wakonongo: What have you to do with them?  To
+your tembes: go!  Each Mgogo found in the khambi without meal,
+without cattle to sell, shall pay to the mtemi cloth or cows.
+Away with you!"  Saying which, he snatched up a stick and drove the
+hundreds out of the khambi, who were as obedient to him as so many
+children.  During the two days we halted at Mukondoku we saw no
+more of the mob, and there was peace.
+
+The muhongo of the Sultan Swaruru was settled with few words.  The
+chief who acted for the Sultan as his prime minister having been
+"made glad" with a doti of Rehani Ulyah from me, accepted the usual
+tribute of six doti, only one of which was of first-class cloth.
+
+There remained but one more sultan to whom muhongo must be paid
+after Mukondoku, and this was the Sultan of Kiwyeh, whose
+reputation was so bad that owners of property who had control over
+their pagazis seldom passed by Kiwyeh, preferring the hardships of
+long marches through the wilderness to the rudeness and exorbitant
+demands of the chief of Kiwyeh.  But the pagazis, on whom no burden
+or responsibility fell save that of carrying their loads, who
+could use their legs and show clean heels in the case of a hostile
+outbreak, preferred the march to Kiwyeh to enduring thirst and the
+fatigue of a terekeza.  Often the preference of the pagazis won the
+day, when their employers were timid, irresolute men, like Sheikh
+Hamed.
+
+The 7th of June was the day fixed for our departure from Mukondoku,
+so the day before, the Arabs came to my tent to counsel with me
+as to the route we should adopt.  On calling together the kirangozis
+of the respective caravans and veteran Wanyamwezi pagazis, we
+learned there were three roads leading from Mukondoku to Uyanzi.
+The first was the southern road, and the one generally adopted,
+for the reasons already stated, and led by Kiwyeh.  To this
+Hamed raised objections.  "The Sultan was bad," he said; "he
+sometimes charged a caravan twenty doti; our caravan would
+have to pay about sixty doti.  The Kiwyeh road would not do at
+all.  Besides," he added, "we have to make a terekeza to reach
+Kiwyeh, and then we will not reach it before the day after
+to-morrow."  The second was the central road.  We should arrive
+at Munieka on the morrow; the day after would be a terekeza from
+Mabunguru Nullah to a camp near Unyambogi; two hours the next
+day would bring us to Kiti, where there was plenty of water and
+food.  As neither of the kirangozis or Arabs knew this road, and
+its description came from one of my ancient pagazis, Hamed said he
+did not like to trust the guidance of such a large caravan in the
+hands of an old Mnyamwezi, and would therefore prefer to hear about
+the third road, before rendering his decision.  The third road was
+the northern.  It led past numerous villages of the Wagogo for the
+first two hours; then we should strike a jungle; and a three
+hours' march would then bring us to Simbo, where there was water,
+but no village.  Starting early next morning, we would travel six
+hours when we would arrive at a pool of water.  Here taking a short
+rest, an afternoon march of five hours would bring us within three
+hours of another village.  As this last road was known to many,
+Hamed said, "Sheikh Thani, tell the Sahib that I think this is the
+best road."  Sheikh Thani was told, after he had informed me that,
+as I had marched with them through Ugogo, if they decided upon
+going by Simbo, my caravan would follow.
+
+Immediately after the discussion among the principals respecting
+the merits of the several routes, arose a discussion among the
+pagazis which resulted in an obstinate clamor against the Simbo
+road, for its long terekeza and scant prospects of water, the
+dislike to the Simbo road communicated itself to all the caravans,
+and soon it was magnified by reports of a wilderness reaching from
+Simbo to Kusuri, where there was neither food nor water to be
+obtained.  Hamed's pagazis, and those of the Arab servants, rose
+in a body and declared they could not go on that march, and if
+Hamed insisted upon adopting it they would put their packs down
+and leave him to carry them himself.
+
+Hamed Kimiani, as he was styled by the Arabs, rushed up to Sheikh
+Thani, and declared that he must take the Kiwyeh road, otherwise
+his pagazis would all desert.  Thani replied that all the roads
+were the same to him, that wherever Hamed chose to go, he would
+follow.  They then came to my tent, and informed me of the
+determination at which the Wanyamwezi had arrived.  Calling my
+veteran Mnyamwezi, who had given me the favourable report once
+more to my tent, I bade him give a correct account of the Kiti
+road.  It was so favourable that my reply to Hamed was, that I
+was the master of my caravan, that it was to go wherever I told
+the kirangozi, not where the pagazis chose; that when I told
+them to halt they must halt, and when I commanded a march, a
+march should be made; and that as I fed them well and did not
+overwork them, I should like to see the pagazi or soldier that
+disobeyed me.  "You made up your mind just now that you would take
+the Simbo road, and we were agreed upon it, now your pagazis say
+they will take, the Kiwyeh road, or desert.  Go on the Kiwyeh road
+and pay twenty doti muhongo.  I and my caravan to-morrow morning
+will take the Kiti road, and when you find me in Unyanyembe
+one day ahead of you, you will be sorry you did not take the same
+road."
+
+This resolution of mine had the effect of again changing the
+current of Hamed's thoughts, for he instantly said, "That is the
+best road after all, and as the Sahib is determined to go on it,
+and we have all travelled together through the bad land of the
+Wagogo, Inshallah!  let us all go the same way," and Thani=-good
+old man--not objecting, and Hamed having decided, they both
+joyfully went out of the tent to communicate the news.
+
+On the 7th the caravans--apparently unanimous that the Kiti road
+was to be taken--were led as usual by Hamed's kirangozi.  We had
+barely gone a mile before I perceived that we had left the Simbo
+road, had taken the direction of Kiti, and, by a cunning detour,
+were now fast approaching the defile of the mountain ridge before
+us, which admitted access to the higher plateau of Kiwyeh.
+Instantly halting my caravan, I summoned the veteran who had
+travelled by Kiti, and asked him whether we were not going towards
+Kiwyeh.  He replied that we were.  Calling my pagazis together,
+I bade Bombay tell them that the Musuugu never changed his mind;
+that as I had said my caravan should march by Kiti; to Kiti it
+must go whether the Arabs followed or not.  I then ordered the
+veteran to take up his load and show the kirangozi the proper road
+to Kiti.  The Wanyamwezi pagazis put down their bales, and then
+there was every indication of a mutiny.  The Wangwana soldiers
+were next ordered to load their guns and to flank the caravan, and
+shoot the first pagazis who made an attempt to run away.
+Dismounting, I seized my whip, and, advancing towards the first
+pagazi who had put down his load, I motioned to him to take up his
+load and march.  It was unnecessary to proceed further; without
+an exception, all marched away obediently after the kirangozi.
+I was about bidding farewell to Thani, and Hamed, when Thani said,
+"Stop a bit, Sahib; I have had enough of this child's play; I come
+with you," and his caravan was turned after mine.  Hamed's caravan
+was by this time close to the defile, and he himself was a full
+mile behind it, weeping like a child at what he was pleased to call
+our desertion of him.  Pitying his strait--for he was almost beside
+himself as thoughts of Kiwyeh's sultan, his extortion and rudeness,
+swept across his mind--I advised him to run after his caravan,
+and tell it, as all the rest had taken the other road, to think
+of the Sultan of Kiwyeh.  Before reaching the Kiti defile I was
+aware that Hamed's caravan was following us.
+
+The ascent of the ridge was rugged and steep, thorns of the
+prickliest nature punished us severely, the _acacia horrida_ was
+here more horrid than usual, the gums stretched out their branches,
+and entangled the loads, the mimosa with its umbrella-like top
+served to shade us from the sun, but impeded a rapid advance.
+Steep outcrops of syenite and granite, worn smooth by many feet,
+had to be climbed over, rugged terraces of earth and rock had to
+be ascended, and distant shots resounding through the forest added
+to the alarm and general discontent, and had I not been immediately
+behind my caravan, watchful of every manoeuvre, my Wanyamwezi
+had deserted to a man.  Though the height we ascended was barely
+800 feet above the salina we had just left, the ascent occupied
+two hours.
+
+Having surmounted the plateau and the worst difficulties, we had
+a fair road comparatively, which ran through jungle, forest, and
+small open tracts, which in three hours more brought us to Munieka,
+a small village, surrounded by a clearing richly cultivated by a
+colony of subjects of Swaruru of Mukondoku.
+
+By the time we had arrived at camp everybody had recovered his
+good humour and content except Hamed.  Thani's men happened to set
+his tent too close to Hamed's tree, around which his bales were
+stacked.  Whether the little Sheikh imagined honest old Thani
+capable of stealing one is not known, but it is certain that he
+stormed and raved about the near neighbourhood of his best friend's
+tent, until Thani ordered its removal a hundred yards off.  This
+proceeding even, it seems, did not satisfy Hamed, for it was quite
+midnight--as Thani said--when Hamed came, and kissing his hands
+and feet, on his knees implored forgiveness, which of course Thani,
+being the soul of good-nature, and as large-hearted as any man,
+willingly gave.  Hamed was not satisfied, however, until, with the
+aid of his slaves, he had transported his friend's tent to where it
+had at first been pitched.
+
+The water at Munieka was obtained from a deep depression in a hump
+of syenite, and was as clear as crystal, and' cold as ice-water--a
+luxury we had not experienced since leaving Simbamwenni.
+
+We were now on the borders of Uyanzi, or, as it is better known,
+"Magunda Mkali "--the Hot-ground, or Hot-field.  We had passed the
+village populated by Wagogo, and were about to shake the dust of
+Ugogo from our feet.  We had entered Ugogo full of hopes, believing
+it a most pleasant land--a land flowing with milk and honey.  We
+had been grievously disappointed; it proved to be a land of gall
+and bitterness, full of trouble and vexation of spirit, where
+danger was imminent at every step--where we were exposed to the
+caprice of inebriated sultans.  Is it a wonder, then, that all
+felt happy at such a moment?  With the prospect before us of
+what was believed by many to be a real wilderness, our ardor
+was not abated, but was rather strengthened.  The wilderness
+in Africa proves to be, in many instances, more friendly than
+the populated country.  The kirangozi blew his kudu horn much
+more merrily on this morning than he was accustomed to do while
+in Ugogo.  We were about to enter Magunda Mkali.  At 9 A.M.,
+three hours after leaving Munieka, and two hours since we had
+left the extreme limits of Ugogo, we were halted at Mabunguru
+Nullah.  The Nullah runs southwesterly after leaving its source in
+the chain of hills dividing Ugogo from Magunda Mkali.  During the
+rainy season it must be nearly impassable, owing to the excessive
+slope of its bed.  Traces of the force of the torrent are seen in
+the syenite and basalt boulders which encumber the course.  Their
+rugged angles are worn smooth, and deep basins are excavated where
+the bed is of the rock, which in the dry season serve as reservoirs.
+Though the water contained in them has a slimy and greenish
+appearance, and is well populated with frogs, it is by no means
+unpalatable.
+
+At noon we resumed our march, the Wanyamwezi cheering, shouting,
+and singing, the Wangwana soldiers, servants, and pagazis vieing
+with them in volume of voice and noise-making the dim forest
+through which we were now passing resonant with their voices.
+
+The scenery was much more picturesque than any we had yet seen
+since leaving Bagamoyo.  The ground rose into grander waves--hills
+cropped out here and there--great castles of syenite appeared,
+giving a strange and weird appearance to the forest.  From a
+distance it would almost seem as if we were approaching a bit of
+England as it must have appeared during feudalism; the rocks
+assumed such strange fantastic shapes.  Now they were round
+boulders raised one above another, apparently susceptible to every
+breath of wind; anon, they towered like blunt-pointed obelisks,
+taller than the tallest trees; again they assumed the shape of
+mighty waves, vitrified; here, they were a small heap of fractured
+and riven rock; there, they rose to the grandeur of hills.
+
+By  5 P.M. we had travelled twenty miles, and the signal was
+sounded for a halt.  At 1 A.M., the moon being up, Hamed's horn and
+voice were heard throughout the silent camp awaking his pagazis for
+the march.  Evidently Sheikh Hamed was gone stark mad, otherwise
+why should he be so frantic for the march at such an early hour?
+The dew was falling heavily, and chilled one like frost; and an
+ominous murmur of deep discontent responded to the early call on
+all sides.  Presuming, however, that he had obtained better
+information than we had, Sheikh Thani and I resolved to be governed
+as the events proved him to be right or wrong.
+
+As all were discontented, this night, march was performed in deep
+silence.  The thermometer was at 53°, we being about 4,500 feet
+above the level of the sea.  The pagazis, almost naked, walked
+quickly in order to keep warm, and by so doing many a sore foot
+was made by stumbling against obtrusive roots and rocks, and
+treading on thorns.  At 3 A.M.  we arrived at the village of
+Unyambogi, where we threw ourselves down to rest and sleep until
+dawn should reveal what else was in store for the hard-dealt-with
+caravans.
+
+It was broad daylight when I awoke; the sun was flaring his hot
+beams in my face.  Sheikh Thani came soon after to inform me that
+Hamed had gone to Kiti two hours since; but he, when asked to
+accompany him, positively refused, exclaiming against it as
+folly, and utterly unnecessary.  When my advice was asked by
+Thani, I voted the whole thing as sheer nonsense; and, in turn,
+asked him what a terekeza was for?  Was it not an afternoon march
+to enable caravans to reach water and food?  Thani replied than it
+was.  I then asked him if there was no water or food to be obtained
+in Unyambogi.  Thani replied that he had not taken pains to
+inquire, but was told by the villagers that there was an abundance
+of matamia, hindi, maweri, sheep; goats, and chickens in their
+village at cheap prices, such as were not known in Ugogo.
+
+"Well, then," said I, "if Hamed wants to be a fool, and kill his
+pagazis, why should we?  I have as much cause for haste as Sheikh
+Hamed; but Unyanyembe is far yet, and I am not going to endanger
+my property by playing the madman."
+
+As Thani had reported, we found an abundance of provisions at the
+village, and good sweet water from some pits close by.  A sheep
+cost one chukka; six chickens were also purchased at that price;
+six measures of matama, maweri, or hindi, were procurable for the
+same sum; in short, we were coming, at last, into the land of
+plenty.
+
+On the 10th June we arrived at Kiti after a journey of four hours
+and a half, where we found the irrepressible Hamed halted in sore
+trouble.  He who would be a Caesar, proved to be an irresolute
+Antony.  He had to sorrow over the death of a favourite slave girl,
+the loss of five dish-dashes (Arab shirts), silvered-sleeve and
+gold-embroidered jackets, with which he had thought to enter
+Unyanyembe in state, as became a merchant of his standing, which
+had disappeared with three absconding servants, besides copper
+trays, rice, and pilau dishes, and two bales of cloth with runaway
+Wangwana pagazis.  Selim, my Arab servant, asked him, "What are
+you doing here, Sheikh Hamed?  I thought you were well on the road
+to Unyanyembe."  Said he, "Could I leave Thani, my friend, behind?"
+
+Kiti abounded in cattle and grain, and we were able to obtain food
+at easy rates.  The Wakimbu, emigrants from Ukimbu, near Urori,
+are a quiet race, preferring the peaceful arts of agriculture to
+war; of tending their flocks to conquest.  At the least rumor of
+war they remove their property and family, and emigrate to the
+distant wilderness, where they begin to clear the land, and to
+hunt the elephant for his ivory.  Yet we found them to be a fine
+race, and well armed, and seemingly capable, by their numbers and
+arms, to compete with any tribe.  But here, as elsewhere, disunion
+makes them weak.  They are mere small colonies, each colony ruled
+by its own chief; whereas, were they united, they might make a
+very respectable front before an enemy.
+
+Our next destination was Msalalo, distant fifteen miles from Kiti.
+Hamed, after vainly searching for his runaways and the valuable
+property he had lost, followed us, and tried once more, when he
+saw us encamped at Msalalo, to pass us; but his pagazis failed him,
+the march having been so long.
+
+Welled Ngaraiso was reached on the 15th, after a three and a half
+hours' march.  It is a flourishing little place, where provisions
+were almost twice as cheap as they were at Unyambogi.  Two hours'
+march south is Jiweh la Mkoa, on the old road, towards which the
+road which we have been travelling since leaving Bagamoyo was now
+rapidly leading.
+
+Unyanyembe being near, the pagazis and soldiers having behaved
+excellently during the lengthy marches we had lately made, I
+purchased a bullock for three doti, and had it slaughtered for
+their special benefit.  I also gave each a khete of red beads to
+indulge his appetite for whatever little luxury the country
+afforded.  Milk and honey were plentiful, and three frasilah of
+sweet potatoes were bought for a shukka, equal to about 40 cents of
+our money.
+
+The 13th June brought us to the last village of Magunda Mkali, in
+the district of Jiweh la Singa, after a short march of eight miles
+and three-quarters.  Kusuri--so called by the Arabs--is called
+Konsuli by the Wakimbu who inhabit it.  This is, however, but one
+instance out of many where the Arabs have misnamed or corrupted
+the native names of villages and districts.
+
+Between Ngaraiso and Kusuri we passed the village of Kirurumo, now
+a thriving place, with many a thriving village near it.  As we
+passed it, the people came out to greet the Musungu, whose advent
+had been so long heralded by his loud-mouthed caravans, and whose
+soldiers had helped them win the day in a battle against their
+fractious brothers of Jiweh la Mkoa.
+
+A little further on we came across a large khambi, occupied by
+Sultan bin Mohammed, an Omani Arab of high descent, who, as soon as
+he was notified of my approach, came out to welcome me, and invite
+me to his khambi.  As his harem lodged in his tent, of course I was
+not invited thither; but a carpet outside was ready for his visitor.
+After the usual questions had been asked about my health, the news
+of the road, the latest from Zanzibar and Oman, he asked me if I
+had much cloth with me.  This was a question often asked by owners
+of down caravans, and the reason of it is that the Arabs, in their
+anxiety to make as much as possible of their cloth at the ivory
+ports on the Tanganika and elsewhere, are liable to forget that
+they should retain a portion for the down marches.  As, indeed,
+I had but a bale left of the quantity of cloth retained for
+provisioning my party on the road, when outfitting my caravans
+on the coast, I could unblushingly reply in the negative.
+
+I halted a day at Kusuri to give my caravan a rest, after its
+long series of marches, before venturing on the two days' march
+through the uninhabited wilderness that separates the district of
+Jiweh la Singa Uyanzi from the district of Tura in Unyanyembe.
+Hamed preceded, promising to give Sayd bin Salim notice of my
+coming, and to request him to provide a tembe for me.
+
+On the 15th, having ascertained that Sheikh Thani would be detained
+several days at Kusuri, owing to the excessive number of his people
+who were laid up with that dreadful plague of East Africa, the
+small-pox, I bade him farewell, and my caravan struck out of
+Kusuri once more for the wilderness and the jungle.  A little
+before noon we halted at the Khambi of Mgongo Tembo, or the
+Elephant's Back--so called from a wave of rock whose back, stained
+into dark brownness by atmospheric influences, is supposed by the
+natives to resemble the blue-brown back of this monster of the
+forest.  My caravan had quite an argument with me here, as to
+whether we should make the terekeza on this day or on the next.
+The majority was of the opinion that the next day would be the
+best for a terekeza; but I, being the "bana," consulting my
+own interests, insisted, not without a flourish or two of my
+whip, that the terekeza should be made on this day.
+
+Mgongo Tembo, when Burton and Speke passed by, was a promising
+settlement, cultivating many a fair acre of ground.  But two years
+ago war broke out, for some bold act of its people upon caravans,
+and the Arabs came from Unyanyembe with their Wangwana servants,
+attacked them, burnt the villages, and laid waste the work of
+years.  Since that time Mgongo Tembo has been but blackened wrecks
+of houses, and the fields a sprouting jungle.
+
+A cluster of date palm-trees, overtopping a dense grove close to
+the mtoni of Mgongo Tembo, revived my recollections of Egypt.
+The banks of the stream, with their verdant foliage, presented
+a strange contrast to the brown and dry appearance of the jungle
+which lay on either side.
+
+At 1 P.M.  we resumed our loads and walking staffs, and in a short
+time were en route for the Ngwhalah Mtoni, distant eight and
+three-quarter miles from the khambi.  The sun was hot; like a
+globe of living, seething flame, it flared its heat full on our
+heads; then as it descended towards the west, scorched the air
+before it was inhaled by the lungs which craved it.  Gourds of
+water were emptied speedily to quench the fierce heat that
+burned the throat and lungs.  One pagazi, stricken heavily with the
+small-pox, succumbed, and threw himself down on the roadside to die.
+We never saw him afterwards, for the progress of a caravan on a
+terekeza, is something like that of a ship in a hurricane.  The
+caravan must proceed--woe befall him who lags behind, for hunger
+and thirst will overtake him--so must a ship drive before the
+fierce gale to escape foundering--woe befall him who falls
+overboard!
+
+An abundance of water, good, sweet, and cool, was found in the bed
+of the mtoni in deep stony reservoirs.  Here also the traces of
+furious torrents were clearly visible as at Mabunguru.
+
+The Nghwhalah commences in Ubanarama to the north--a country
+famous for its fine breed of donkeys--and after running south,
+south-south-west, crosses the Unyanyembe road, from which point
+it has more of a westerly turn.
+
+On the 16th we arrived at Madedita, so called from a village which
+was, but is now no more.  Madedita is twelve and a half miles from
+the Nghwhalah Mtoni.  A pool of good water a few hundred yards from
+the roadside is the only supply caravans can obtain, nearer than
+Tura in Unyamwezi.  The tsetse or chufwa-fly, as called by the
+Wasawahili, stung us dreadfully, which is a sign that large game
+visit the pool sometimes, but must not be mistaken for an indication
+that there is any in the immediate neighbourhood of the water.
+A single pool so often frequented by passing caravans, which must
+of necessity halt here, could not be often visited by the animals
+of the forest, who are shy in this part of Africa of the haunts
+of man.
+
+At dawn the neat day we were on the road striding at a quicker
+pace than on most days, since we were about to quit Magunda Mali
+for the more populated and better land of Unyamwezi.  The forest
+held its own for a wearisomely long time, but at the end of two
+hours it thinned, then dwarfed into low jungle, and finally
+vanished altogether, and we had arrived on the soil of Unyamwezi,
+with a broad plain, swelling, subsiding, and receding in lengthy
+and grand undulations in our front to one indefinite horizontal
+line which purpled in the far distance.  The view consisted of
+fields of grain ripening, which followed the contour of the plain,
+and which rustled merrily before the morning breeze that came
+laden with the chills of Usagara.
+
+At 8 A.M. we had arrived at the frontier village of Unyamwezi,
+Eastern Tura, which we invaded without any regard to the
+disposition of the few inhabitants who lived there.  Here we
+found Nondo, a runaway of Speke's, one of those who had sided
+with Baraka against Bombay, who, desiring to engage himself with
+me,  was engaging enough to furnish honey and sherbet to his
+former companions, and lastly to the pagazis.  It was only a short
+breathing pause we made here, having another hour's march to reach
+Central Tura.
+
+The road from Eastern Tura led through vast fields of millet,
+Indian corn, holcus sorghum, maweri, or panicum, or bajri, as
+called by the Arabs; gardens of sweet potatoes, large tracts of
+cucumbers, water-melons, mush-melons, and pea-nuts which grew in
+the deep furrows between the ridges of the holcus.
+
+Some broad-leafed plantain plants were also seen in the
+neighbourhood of the villages, which as we advanced became very
+numerous.  The villages of the Wakimbu are like those of the
+Wagogo, square, flat-roofed, enclosing an open area, which is
+sometimes divided into three or four parts by fences or matama
+stalks.
+
+At central Tura, where we encamped, we had evidence enough of
+the rascality of the Wakimbu of Tura.  Hamed, who, despite his
+efforts to reach Unyanyembe in time to sell his cloths before other
+Arabs came with cloth supplies, was unable to compel his pagazis
+to the double march every day, was also encamped at Central Tura,
+together with the Arab servants who preferred Hamed's imbecile
+haste to Thani's cautious advance.  Our first night in Unyamwezi
+was very exciting indeed.  The Musungu's camp was visited by two
+crawling thieves, but they were soon made aware by the portentous
+click of a trigger that the white man's camp was well guarded.
+
+Hamed's camp was next visited; but here also the restlessness of
+the owner frustrated their attempts, for he was pacing backwards
+and forwards through his camp, with a loaded gun in his hand; and
+the thieves were obliged to relinquish the chance of stealing any
+of his bales.  From Hamed's they proceeded to Hassan's camp (one
+of the Arab servants), where they were successful enough to reach
+and lay hold of a couple of bales; but, unfortunately, they made
+a  noise, which awoke the vigilant and quick-eared slave, who
+snatched his loaded musket, and in a moment had shot one of them
+through the heart.  Such were our experiences of the Wakimbu of
+Tura.
+
+On the 18th the three caravans, Hamed's, Hassan's, and my own,
+left Tura by a road which zig-zagged towards all points through
+the tall matama fields.  In an hour's time we had passed Tura
+Perro, or Western Tura, and had entered the forest again, whence
+the Wakimbu of Tura obtain their honey, and where they excavate
+deep traps for the elephants with which the forest is said to
+abound.  An hour's march from Western Tura brought us to a ziwa,
+or pond.  There were two, situated in the midst of a small open
+mbuga, or plain, which, even at this late season, was yet soft
+from the water which overflows it during the rainy season.
+After resting three hours, we started on the terekeza,
+or afternoon march.
+
+It was one and the same forest that we had entered soon after
+leaving Western Tura, that we travelled through until we reached
+the Kwala Mtoni, or, as Burton has misnamed it on his map, "Kwale."
+The water of this mtoni is contained in large ponds, or deep
+depressions in the wide and crooked gully of Kwala.  In these
+ponds a species of mud-fish, was found, off one of which I made
+a meal, by no means to be despised by one who had not tasted fish
+since leaving Bagamoyo.  Probably, if I had my choice, being, when
+occasion demands it, rather fastidious in my tastes, I would not
+select the mud-fish.
+
+From Tura to the Kwala Mtoni is seventeen and a half miles,
+a distance which, however easy it may be traversed once a
+fortnight, assumes a prodigious length when one has to travel
+it almost every other day, at least, so my pagazis, soldiers,
+and followers found it, and their murmurs were very loud when
+I ordered the signal to be sounded on the march.  Abdul Kader,
+the tailor who had attached himself to me, as a man ready-handed
+at all things, from mending a pair of pants, making a delicate
+entremets, or shooting an elephant, but whom the interior proved
+to be the weakliest of the weakly, unfit for anything except
+eating and drinking---almost succumbed on this march.
+
+Long ago the little stock of goods which Abdul had brought from
+Zanzibar folded in a pocket-handkerchief, and with which he was
+about to buy ivory and slaves, and make his fortune in the famed
+land of Unyamwezi, had disappeared with the great eminent hopes he
+had built on them, like those of Alnaschar the unfortunate owner
+of crockery in the Arabian tale.  He came to me as we prepared for
+the march, with a most dolorous tale about his approaching death,
+which he felt in his bones, and weary back: his legs would barely
+hold him up; in short, he had utterly collapsed--would I take
+mercy on him, and let him depart?  The cause of this extraordinary
+request, so unlike the spirit with which he had left Zanzibar,
+eager to possess the ivory and slaves of Unyamwezi, was that on
+the last long march, two of my donkeys being dead, I had ordered
+that the two saddles which they had carried should be Abdul Kader's
+load to Unyanyembe.  The weight of the saddles was 16 lbs., as
+the spring balance-scale indicated, yet Abdul Kader became
+weary of life, as, he counted the long marches that intervened
+between the mtoni and Unyanyembe.  On the ground he fell prone,
+to kiss my feet, begging me in the name of God to permit him to
+depart.
+
+As I had had some experience of Hindoos, Malabarese, and coolies
+in Abyssinia, I knew exactly how to deal with a case like this.
+Unhesitatingly I granted the request as soon as asked, for as much
+tired as Abdul Kader said he was of life, I was with Abdul Kader's
+worthlessness.  But the Hindi did not want to be left in the
+jungle, he said, but, after arriving in Unyanyembe.  "Oh," said I,
+"then you must reach Unyanyembe first; in the meanwhile you will
+carry those saddles there for the food which you must eat."
+
+As the march to Rubuga was eighteen and three-quarter miles, the
+pagazis walked fast and long without resting.
+
+Rubuga, in the days of Burton, according to his book, was a
+prosperous district.  Even when we passed, the evidences of wealth
+and prosperity which it possessed formerly, were plain enough in
+the wide extent of its grain fields, which stretched to the right
+and left of the Unyanyembe road for many a mile.  But they were
+only evidences of what once were numerous villages, a well-
+cultivated and populous district, rich in herds of cattle and
+stores of grain.  All the villages are burnt down, the people have
+been driven north three or four days from Rubuga, the cattle were
+taken by force, the grain fields were left standing, to be
+overgrown with jungle and rank weeds.  We passed village after
+village that had been burnt, and were mere blackened heaps of
+charred timber and smoked clay; field after field of grain ripe
+years ago was yet standing in the midst of a crop of gums and
+thorns, mimosa and kolquall.
+
+We arrived at the village, occupied by about sixty Wangwana,
+who have settled here to make a living by buying and selling
+ivory.  Food is provided for them in the deserted fields of the
+people of Rubuga.  We were very tired and heated from the long
+march, but the pagazis had all arrived by 3 p.m.
+
+At the Wangwana village we met Amer bin Sultan, the very type of
+an old Arab sheikh, such as we read of in books, with a snowy
+beard, and a clean reverend face, who was returning to Zanzibar
+after a ten years' residence in Unyanyembe.  He presented me with
+a goat; and a goatskin full of rice; a most acceptable gift in a
+place where a goat costs five cloths.
+
+After a day's halt at Rubuga, during which I despatched soldiers
+to notify Sheikh Sayd bin Salim and Sheikh bin Nasib, the two chief
+dignitaries of Unyanyembe, of my coming, on the 21st of June we
+resumed the march for Kigwa, distant five hours.  The road ran
+through another forest similar to that which separated Tura from
+Rubuga, the country rapidly sloping as we proceeded westward.
+Kigwa we found to have been visited by the same vengeance which
+rendered Rubuga such a waste.
+
+The next day, after a three and a half hours' rapid march, we
+crossed the mtoni--which was no mtoni--separating Kigwa from
+Unyanyembe district, and after a short halt to quench our thirst,
+in three and a half hours more arrived at Shiza.  It was a most
+delightful march, though a long one, for its picturesqueness of
+scenery which every few minutes was revealed, and the proofs we
+everywhere saw of the peaceable and industrious disposition of the
+people.  A short half hour from Shiza we beheld the undulating
+plain wherein the Arabs have chosen to situate the central depot
+which commands such wide and extensive field of trade.  The
+lowing of cattle and the bleating of the goats and sheep were
+everywhere heard, giving the country a happy, pastoral aspect.
+
+The Sultan of Shiza desired me to celebrate my arrival in
+Unyanyembe, with a five-gallon jar of pombe, which he brought
+for that purpose.
+
+As the pombe was but stale ale in taste, and milk and water in
+colour, after drinking a small glassful I passed it to the delighted
+soldiers and pagazis.  At my request the Sultan brought a fine fat
+bullock, for which he accepted four and a half doti of Merikani.
+The bullock was immediately slaughtered and served out to the
+caravan as a farewell feast.
+
+No one slept much that night, and long before the dawn the fires
+were lit, and great steaks were broiling, that their stomachs might
+rejoice before parting with the Musungu, whose bounty they had so
+often tasted.  Six rounds of powder were served to each soldier and
+pagazi who owned a gun, to fire away when we should be near the
+Arab houses.  The meanest pagazi had his best cloth about his
+loins, and some were exceedingly brave in gorgeous Ulyah "Coombeesa
+Poonga" and crimson "Jawah," the glossy  "Rehani," and the neat
+"Dabwani."  The soldiers were mustered in new tarbooshes, and the
+long white shirts of the Mrima and the Island.  For this was the
+great and happy day which had been on our tongues ever since quitting
+the coast, for which we had made those noted marches latterly--one
+hundred and seventy-eight and a half miles in sixteen days,
+including pauses--something over eleven miles a day
+
+The signal sounded and the caravan was joyfully off with banners
+flying, and trumpets and horns blaring.  A short two and a half
+hours' march brought us within sight of Kwikuru, which is about
+two miles south of Tabora, the main Arab town; on the outside of
+which we saw a long line of men in clean shirts, whereat we opened
+our charged batteries, and fired a volley of small arms such
+
+as Kwikuru seldom heard before.  The pagazis closed up and adopted
+the swagger of veterans:  the soldiers blazed away uninterruptedly,
+while I, seeing that the Arabs were advancing towards me, left the
+ranks, and held out my hand, which was immediately grasped by Sheikh
+Sayd bin Salim, and then by about two dozen people, and thus our
+entrée into Unyanyembe was effected.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.  MY LIFE AND TROUBLES DURING MY RESIDENCE IN UNYAS
+               NYEMBE.  I BECOME ENGAGED IN A WAR.
+
+
+I received a noiseless ovation as I walked side by side with the
+governor, Sayd bin Salim, towards his tembe in Kwikuru, or the
+capital.  The Wanyamwezi pagazis were out by hundreds, the
+warriors of Mkasiwa, the sultan, hovered around their chief, the
+children were seen between the legs of their parents, even infants,
+a few months old, slung over their mothers' backs, all paid the
+tribute due to my colour, with one grand concentrated stare.  The
+only persons who talked with me were the Arabs, and aged Mkasiwa,
+ruler of Unyanyembe.
+
+Sayd bin Salim's house was at the north-western corner of the
+inclosure, a stockaded boma of Kwikuru.  We had tea made in a
+silver tea-pot, and a bountiful supply of "dampers" were smoking
+under a silver cover; and to this repast I was invited.  When a
+man has walked eight miles or so without any breakfast, and a hot
+tropical sun has been shining on him for three or four hours, he is
+apt to do justice to a meal, especially if his appetite is
+healthy.  I think I astonished the governor by the dexterous way
+in which I managed to consume eleven cups of his aromatic
+concoction of an Assam herb, and the easy effortless style with
+which I demolished his high tower of "slap jacks," that but a
+minute or so smoked hotly under their silver cover.
+
+For the meal, I thanked the Sheikh, as only an earnest and
+sincerely hungry man, now satisfied, could thank him.  Even if
+I had not spoken, my gratified looks had well informed him, under
+what obligations I had been laid to him.
+
+Out came my pipe and tobacco-pouch.
+
+"My friendly Sheikh, wilt thou smoke?"
+
+"No, thanks!  Arabs never smoke."
+
+"Oh, if you don't, perhaps you would not object to me smoking,
+in order to assist digestion?"
+
+"Ngema--good--go on, master."
+
+Then began the questions, the gossipy, curious, serious, light
+questions:
+
+"How came the master?
+
+"By the Mpwapwa road."
+
+"It is good.  Was the Makata bad?"
+
+"Very bad."
+
+"What news from Zanzibar?"
+
+"Good; Syed Toorkee has possession of Muscat, and Azim bin Ghis
+was slain in the streets."
+
+"Is this true, Wallahi?" (by God.)
+
+"It is true."
+
+"Heh-heh-h!  This is news!"--stroking his beard.
+
+"Have you heard, master, of Suleiman bin Ali?"
+
+"Yes, the Bombay governor sent him to Zanzibar, in a
+man-of-war, and Suleiman bin Ali now lies in the gurayza (fort)."
+
+"Heh, that is very good."
+
+"Did you have to pay much tribute to the Wagogo?"
+
+"Eight times; Hamed Kimiani wished me to go by Kiwyeh, but I
+declined, and struck through the forest to Munieka.  Hamed and
+Thani thought it better to follow me, than brave Kiwyeh by
+themselves."
+
+"Where is that Hajji Abdullah (Captain Burton) that came here,
+and Spiki?" (Speke.)
+
+"Hajji Abdullah!  What Hajji Abdullah?  Ah! Sheikh Burton we call
+him.  Oh, he is a great man now; a balyuz (a consul) at El Scham"
+(Damascus.)
+
+"Heh-heh; balyuz!  Heh, at El Scham!  Is not that near Betlem
+el Kuds?" (Jerusalem.)
+
+"Yes, about four days.  Spiki is dead.  He shot himself by
+accident."
+
+"Ah, ah, Wallah (by God), but this is bad news.  Spiki dead?
+Mash-Allah!  Ough, he was a good man--a good man!  Dead!"
+
+"But where is this Kazeh, Sheikh Sayd?"
+
+Kazeh? Kazeh? I never heard the name before."
+
+"But you were with Burton, and Speke, at Kazeh; you lived
+there several months, when you were all stopping in Unyanyembe;
+it must be close here; somewhere.  Where did Hajji Abdullah and
+Spiki live when they were in Unyanyembe?  Was it not in Musa
+Mzuri's house?"
+
+"That was in Tabora."
+
+"Well, then, where is Kazeh?  I have never seen the man yet who
+could tell me where that place is, and yet the three white men
+have that word down, as the name of the place they lived at when
+you were with them.  You must know where it is."
+
+"Wallahi, bana, I never heard the name; but stop, Kazeh, in
+Kinyamwezi, means 'kingdom.' Perhaps they gave that name to the
+place they stopped at.  But then, I used to call the first house
+Sny bin Amer's house, and Speke lived at Musa Mzuri's house, but
+both houses, as well as all the rest, are in Tabora."
+
+"Thank you, sheikh.  I should like to go and look after my
+people; they must all be wanting food."
+
+"I shall go with you to show you your house.  The tembe is in
+Kwihara, only an hour's walk from Tabora."
+
+On leaving Kwikuru we crossed a low ridge, and soon saw Kwihara
+lying between two low ranges of hills, the northernmost of which
+was terminated westward by the round fortress-like hill of Zimbili.
+There was a cold glare of intense sunshine over the valley,
+probably the effect of an universal bleakness or an autumnal
+ripeness of the grass, unrelieved by any depth of colour to vary
+the universal sameness.  The hills were bleached, or seemed to be,
+under that dazzling sunshine, and clearest atmosphere.  The corn
+had long been cut, and there lay the stubble, and fields,--a browny-
+white expanse; the houses were of mud, and their fiat roofs were of
+mud, and the mud was of a browny-whiteness; the huts were thatched,
+and the stockades around them of barked timber, and these were of
+a browny whiteness.  The cold, fierce, sickly wind from the mountains
+of Usagara sent a deadly chill to our very marrows, yet the intense
+sunshiny glare never changed, a black cow or two, or a tall tree
+here and there, caught the eye for a moment, but they never made
+one forget that the first impression of Kwihara was as of a picture
+without colour, or of food without taste; and if one looked up,
+there was a sky of a pale blue, spotless, and of an awful serenity.
+
+As I approached the tembe of Sayd bin Salim, Sheikh bin Nasib and
+other great Arabs joined us.  Before the great door of the tembe
+the men had stacked the bales, and piled the boxes, and were using
+their tongues at a furious rate, relating to the chiefs and
+soldiers of the first, second, and fourth caravans the many events
+which had befallen them, and which seemed to them the only things
+worth relating.  Outside of their own limited circles they
+evidently cared for nothing.  Then the several chiefs of the other
+caravans had in turn to relate their experiences of the road; and
+the noise of tongues was loud and furious.  But as we approached,
+all this loud-sounding gabble ceased, and my caravan chiefs and
+guides rushed to me to hail me as "master," and to salute me as
+their friend.  One fellow, faithful Baruti, threw himself at my
+feet, the others fired their guns and acted like madmen suddenly
+become frenzied, and a general cry of "welcome" was heard on all
+sides.
+
+"Walk in, master, this is your house, now; here are your men's
+quarters; here you will receive the great Arabs, here is the
+cook-house; here is the store-house; here is the prison for the
+refractory; here are your white man's apartments; and these are
+your own: see, here is the bedroom, here is the gun-room,
+bath-room, &c.;" so Sheikh Sayd talked, as he showed me the
+several places.
+
+On my honour, it was a most comfortable place, this, in Central
+Africa.  One could almost wax poetic, but we will keep such
+ambitious ideas for a future day.  Just now, however, we must
+have the goods stored, and the little army of carriers paid
+off and disbanded.
+
+Bombay was ordered to unlock the strong store-room, to pile the
+bales in regular tiers, the beads in rows one above another, and
+the wire in a separate place.  The boats, canvas, &c., were to be
+placed high above reach of white ants, and the boxes of ammunition
+and powder kegs were to be stored in the gun-room, out of reach of
+danger.  Then a bale of cloth was opened, and each carrier was
+rewarded according to his merits, that each of them might proceed
+home to his friends and neighbours, and tell them how much better
+the white man behaved than the Arabs.
+
+The reports of the leaders of the first, second, and fourth
+caravans were then received, their separate stores inspected, and
+the details and events of their marches heard.  The first caravan
+had been engaged in a war at Kirurumo, and had come out of the
+fight successful, and had reached Unyanyembe without loss of
+anything.  The second had shot a thief in the forest between
+Pembera Pereh and Kididimo; the fourth had lost a bale in the
+jungle of Marenga Mkali, and the porter who carried it had received
+a "very sore head" from a knob stick wielded by one of the
+thieves, who prowl about the jungle near the frontier of Ugogo.
+I was delighted to find that their misfortunes were no more, and
+each leader was then and there rewarded with one handsome cloth,
+and five doti of Merikani.
+
+Just as I began to feel hungry again, came several slaves in
+succession, bearing trays full of good things from the Arabs;
+first an enormous dish of rice, with a bowlful of curried chicken,
+another with a dozen huge wheaten cakes, another with a plateful of
+smoking hot crullers, another with papaws, another with pomegranates
+and lemons; after these came men driving five fat hump backed oxen,
+eight sheep, and ten goats, and another man with a dozen chickens,
+and a dozen fresh eggs.  This was real, practical, noble courtesy,
+munificent hospitality, which quite took my gratitude by storm.
+
+My people, now reduced to twenty-five, were as delighted at the
+prodigal plenitude visible on my tables and in my yard, as I was
+myself.  And as I saw their eyes light up at the unctuous
+anticipations presented to them by their riotous fancies,
+I ordered a bullock to be slaughtered and distributed.
+
+The second day of the arrival of the Expedition in the country
+which I now looked upon as classic ground, since Capts. Burton,
+Speke, and Grant years ago had visited it, and described it, came
+the Arab magnates from Tabora to congratulate me.
+
+Tabora* is the principal Arab settlement in Central Africa.  It
+contains over a thousand huts and tembes, and one may safely
+estimate the population, Arabs, Wangwana, and natives, at five
+thousand people.  Between Tabora and the next settlement, Kwihara,
+rise two rugged hill ridges, separated from each other by a low
+saddle, over the top of which Tabora is always visible from
+Kwihara.
+________________
+* There is no such recognised place as Kazeh.
+________________
+
+They were a fine, handsome body of men, these Arabs.  They mostly
+hailed from Oman: others were Wasawahili; and each of my visitors
+had quite a retinue with him.  At Tabora they live quite luxuriously.
+The plain on which the settlement is situated is exceedingly fertile,
+though naked of trees; the rich pasturage it furnishes permits them
+to keep large herds of cattle and goats, from which they have an
+ample supply of milk, cream, butter, and ghee.  Rice is grown
+everywhere; sweet potatoes, yams, muhogo, holcus sorghum, maize,
+or Indian corn, sesame, millet, field-peas, or vetches, called
+choroko, are cheap, and always procurable.  Around their tembes
+the Arabs cultivate a little wheat for their own purposes, and
+have planted orange, lemon, papaw, and mangoes, which thrive
+here fairly well.  Onions and garlic, chilies, cucumbers, tomatoes,
+and brinjalls, may be procured by the white visitor from the more
+important Arabs, who are undoubted epicureans in their way.  Their
+slaves convey to them from the coast, once a year at least, their
+stores of tea, coffee sugar, spices, jellies, curries, wine,
+brandy, biscuits, sardines, salmon, and such fine cloths and
+articles as they require for their own personal use.  Almost every
+Arab of any eminence is able to show a wealth of Persian carpets,
+and most luxurious bedding, complete tea and coffee-services, and
+magnificently carved dishes of tinned copper and brass lavers.
+Several of them sport gold watches and chains, mostly all a watch
+and chain of some kind.  And, as in Persia, Afghanistan, and
+Turkey, the harems form an essential feature of every Arab's
+household; the sensualism of the Mohammedans is as prominent here
+as in the Orient.
+
+The Arabs who now stood before the front door of my tembe were the
+donors of the good things received the day before.  As in duty
+bound, of course, I greeted Sheikh Sayd first, then Sheikh bin
+Nasib, his Highness of Zanzibar's consul at Karagwa, then I greeted
+the noblest Trojan amongst the Arab population, noblest in bearing,
+noblest in courage and manly worth--Sheikh Khamis bin Abdullah;
+then young Amram bin Mussoud, who is now making war on the king of
+Urori and his fractious people; then handsome, courageous Soud,
+the son of Sayd bin Majid; then dandified Thani bin Abdullah; then
+Mussoud bin Abdullah and his cousin Abdullah bin Mussoud, who own
+the houses where formerly lived Burton and Speke; then old
+Suliman Dowa, Sayd bin Sayf, and the old Hetman of Tabora--Sheikh
+Sultan bin Ali.
+
+As the visit of these magnates, under whose loving protection white
+travellers must needs submit themselves, was only a formal one,
+such as Arab etiquette, ever of the stateliest and truest, impelled
+them to, it is unnecessary to relate the discourse on my health,
+and their wealth, my thanks, and their professions of loyalty, and
+attachment to me.  After having expended our mutual stock of
+congratulations and nonsense, they departed, having stated their
+wish that I should visit them at Tabora and partake of a feast
+which they were about to prepare for me.
+
+Three days afterwards I sallied out of my tembe, escorted by
+eighteen bravely dressed men of my escort, to pay Tabora a
+visit.  On surmounting the saddle over which the road from the
+valley of Kwihara leads to Tabora, the plain on which the Arab
+settlement is situated lay before us, one expanse of dun pasture
+land, stretching from the base bf the hill on our left as far as
+the banks of the northern Gombe, which a few miles beyond Tabora
+heave into purple-coloured hills and blue cones.
+
+Within three-quarters of an hour we were seated on the mud veranda
+of the tembe of Sultan bin Ali, who, because of his age, his
+wealth, and position--being a colonel in Seyd Burghash's unlovely
+army--is looked upon by his countrymen, high and low, as referee
+and counsellor.  His boma or enclosure contains quite a village of
+hive-shaped huts and square tembes.  From here, after being
+presented with a cup of Mocha coffee, and some sherbet, we
+directed our steps towards Khamis bin Abdullah's house, who had,
+in anticipation of my coming, prepared a feast to which he had
+invited his friends and neighbours.  The group of stately Arabs
+in their long white dresses, and jaunty caps, also of a snowy
+white, who stood ready to welcome me to Tabora, produced
+quite an effect on my mind.  I was in time for a council of war
+they were holding--and I was,requested to attend.
+
+Khamis bin Abdullah, a bold and brave man, ever ready to stand up
+for the privileges of the Arabs, and their rights to pass through
+any countries for legitimate trade, is the man who, in Speke's
+`Journal of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile,' is reported
+to have shot Maula, an old chief who sided with Manwa Sera during
+the wars of 1860; and who subsequently, after chasing his
+relentless enemy for five years through Ugogo and Unyamwezi as far
+as Ukonongo, had the satisfaction of beheading him, was now urging
+the Arabs to assert their rights against a chief called Mirambo of
+Uyoweh, in a crisis which was advancing.
+
+This Mirambo of Uyoweh, it seems, had for the last few years been
+in a state of chronic discontent with the policies of the
+neighbouring chiefs.  Formerly a pagazi for an Arab, he had now
+assumed regal power, with the usual knack of unconscionable rascals
+who care not by what means they step into power.  When the
+chief of Uyoweh died, Mirambo, who was head of a gang of robbers
+infesting the forests of Wilyankuru, suddenly entered Uyoweh, and
+constituted himself lord paramount by force.  Some feats of
+enterprise, which he performed to the enrichment of all those who
+recognised his authority, established him firmly in his position.
+This was but a beginning; he carried war through Ugara to Ukonongo,
+through Usagozi to the borders of Uvinza, and after destroying
+the populations over three degrees of latitude, he conceived a
+grievance against Mkasiwa, and against the Arabs, because they
+would not sustain him in his ambitious projects against their
+ally and friend, with whom they were living in peace.
+
+The first outrage which this audacious man committed against the
+Arabs was the halting of an Ujiji-bound caravan, and the demand for
+five kegs of gunpowder, five guns, and five bales of cloth.  This
+extraordinary demand, after expending more than a day in fierce
+controversy, was paid; but the Arabs, if they were surprised at
+the exorbitant black-mail demanded of them, were more than ever
+surprised when they were told to return the way they came; and
+that no Arab caravan should pass through his country to Ujiji
+except over his dead body.
+
+On the return of the unfortunate Arabs to Unyanyembe, they
+reported the facts to Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, the governor of the
+Arab colony.  This old man, being averse to war, of course tried
+every means to induce Mirambo as of old to be satisfied with
+presents; but Mirambo this time was obdurate, and sternly
+determined on war unless the Arabs aided him in the warfare he
+was about to wage against old Mkasiwa, sultan of the Wanyamwezi
+of Unyanyembe.
+
+"This is the status of affairs," said Khamis bin Abdullah.
+"Mirambo says that for years he has been engaged in war against
+the neighbouring Washensi and has come out of it victorious; he
+says this is a great year with him; that he is going to fight
+the Arabs, and the Wanyamwezi of Unyanyembe, and that he shall
+not stop until every Arab is driven from Unyanyembe, and he rules
+over this country in place of Mkasiwa.  Children of Oman, shall
+it be so?  Speak, Salim, son of Sayf, shall we go to meet this
+Mshensi (pagan) or shall we return to our island?"
+
+A murmur of approbation followed the speech of Khamis bin Abdullah,
+the majority of those present being young men eager to punish the
+audacious Mirambo.  Salim, the son of Sayf, an old patriarch, slow
+of speech, tried to appease the passions of the young men, scions
+of the aristocracy of Muscat and Muttrah, and Bedaweens of the
+Desert, but Khamis's bold words had made too deep an impression on
+their minds.
+
+Soud, the handsome Arab whom I have noticed already as the son of
+Sayd the son of Majid, spoke: "My father used to tell me that he
+remembered the days when the Arabs could go through the country
+from Bagamoyo to Ujiji, and from Kilwa to Lunda, and from Usenga
+to Uganda armed with canes.  Those days are gone by.  We have stood
+the insolence of the Wagogo long enough.  Swaruru of Usui just
+takes from us whatever he wants; and now, here is Mirambo, who
+says, after taking more than five bales of cloth as tribute from
+one man, that no Arab caravan shall go to Ujiji, but over his body.
+Are we prepared to give up the ivory of Ujiji, of Urundi, of
+Karagwah, of Uganda, because of this one man?  I say war--war
+until we have got his beard under our feet--war until the whole of
+Uyoweh and Wilyankuru is destroyed--war until we can again travel
+through any part of the country with only our walking canes in
+our hands!"
+
+The universal assent that followed Send's speech proved beyond
+a doubt that we were about to have a war.  I thought of
+Livingstone.  What if he were marching to Unyanyembe directly
+into the war country?
+
+Having found from the Arabs that they intended to finish the war
+quickly--at most within fifteen days, as Uyoweh was only four
+marches distant--I volunteered to accompany them, take my loaded
+caravan with me as far as Mfuto, and there leave it in charge of
+a few guards, and with the rest march on with the Arab army.  And
+my hope was, that it might be possible, after the defeat of Mirambo,
+and his forest banditti--the Ruga-Ruga--to take my Expedition direct
+to Ujiji by the road now closed.  The Arabs were sanguine of
+victory, and I partook of their enthusiasm.
+
+The council of war broke up.  A great dishful of rice and curry,
+in which almonds, citron, raisins, and currants were plentifully
+mixed, was brought in, and it was wonderful how soon we forgot our
+warlike fervor after our attention had been drawn to this royal
+dish.  I, of course, not being a Mohammedan, had a dish of my own,
+of a similar composition, strengthened by platters containing
+roast chicken, and kabobs, crullers, cakes, sweetbread, fruit,
+glasses of sherbet and lemonade, dishes of gum-drops and Muscat
+sweetmeats, dry raisins, prunes, and nuts.  Certainly Khamis bin
+Abdullah proved to me that if he had a warlike soul in him, he
+could also attend to the cultivated tastes acquired under the shade
+of the mangoes on his father's estates in Zanzibar--the island.
+
+After gorging ourselves on these uncommon dainties some of the
+chief Arabs escorted me to other tembes of Tabora.  When we went
+to visit Mussoud bin Abdullah, he showed me the very ground where
+Burton and Speke's house stood--now pulled down and replaced
+by his office--Sny bin Amer's house was also torn down, and the
+fashionable tembe of Unyanyembe, now in vogue, built over
+it,--finely-carved rafters--huge carved doors, brass knockers,
+and lofty airy rooms--a house built for defence and comfort.
+
+The finest house in Unyanyembe belongs to Amram bin Mussoud,
+who paid sixty frasilah of ivory--over $3,000--for it.  Very fair
+houses can be purchased for from twenty to thirty frasilah of
+ivory.  Amram's house is called the "Two Seas"--"Baherein." It is
+one hundred feet in length, and twenty feet high, with walls four
+feet thick, neatly plastered over with mud mortar.  The great door
+is a marvel of carving-work for Unyanyembe artisans.  Each rafter
+within is also carved with fine designs.  Before the front of the
+house is a young plantation of pomegranate trees, which flourish
+here as if they were indigenous to the soil.  A shadoof, such as
+may be seen on the Nile, serves to draw water to irrigate the
+gardens.
+
+Towards evening we walked back to our own finely situated tembe in
+Kwihara, well satisfied with what we had seen at Tabora.  My men
+drove a couple of oxen, and carried three sacks of native rice--a
+most superior kind--the day's presents of hospitality from Khamis
+bin Abdullah.
+
+In Unyanyembe I found the Livingstone caravan, which started off in
+a fright from Bagamoyo upon the rumour that the English Consul was
+coming.  As all the caravans were now halted at Unyanyembe because
+of the now approaching war, I suggested to Sayd bin Salim, that it
+were better that the men of the Livingstone caravan should live
+with mine in my tembe, that I might watch over the white man's
+goods.  Sayd bin Salim agreed with me, and the men and goods were
+at once brought to my tembe.
+
+One day Asmani, who was now chief of Livingstone's caravan, the
+other having died of small-pox, two or three days before, brought
+out a tent to the veranda where, I was sitting writing, and shewed
+me a packet of letters, which to my surprise was marked:
+
+"To Dr. Livingstone,
+" Ujiji,
+"November 1st, 1870.
+
+" Registered letters."
+
+From November 1st, 1870, to February 10, 1871, just one hundred
+days, at Bagamoyo!  A miserable small caravan of thirty-three men
+halting one hundred days at Bagamoyo, only twenty-five miles by
+water from Zanzibar!  Poor Livingstone!  Who knows but he maybe
+suffering for want of these very supplies that were detained so
+long near the sea.  The caravan arrived in Unyanyembe some time
+about the middle of May.  About the latter part of May the first
+disturbances took place.  Had this caravan arrived here in the
+middle of March, or even the middle of April, they might have
+travelled on to Ujiji without trouble.
+
+On the 7th of July, about 2 P.M., I was sitting on the burzani as
+usual; I felt listless and languid, and a drowsiness came over me;
+I did not fall asleep, but the power of my limbs seemed to fail
+me.  Yet the brain was busy; all my life seemed passing in review
+before me; when these retrospective scenes became serious, I
+looked serious; when they were sorrowful, I wept hysterically;
+when they were joyous, I laughed loudly.  Reminiscences of
+yet a young life's battles and hard struggles came surging into
+the mind in quick succession: events of boyhood, of youth, and
+manhood; perils, travels, scenes, joys, and sorrows; loves and
+hates; friendships and indifferences.  My mind followed the
+various and rapid transition of my life's passages; it drew the
+lengthy, erratic, sinuous lines of travel my footsteps had passed
+over.  If I had drawn them on the sandy floor, what enigmatical
+problems they had been to those around me, and what plain,
+readable, intelligent histories they had been to me!
+
+The loveliest feature of all to me was the form of a noble, and
+true man, who called me son.  Of my life in the great pine forests
+of Arkansas, and in Missouri, I retained the most vivid impressions.
+The dreaming days I passed under the sighing pines on the Ouachita's
+shores; the new clearing, the block-house, our faithful black
+servant, the forest deer, and the exuberant life I led, were
+all well remembered.  And I remembered how one day, after we had
+come to live near the Mississipi, I floated down, down, hundreds of
+miles, with a wild fraternity of knurly giants, the boatmen of
+the Mississipi, and how a dear old man welcomed me back, as if
+from the grave.  I remembered also my travels on foot through
+sunny Spain, and France, with numberless adventures in Asia Minor,
+among Kurdish nomads.  I remembered the battle-fields of America
+and the stormy scenes of rampant war.  I remembered gold mines,
+and broad prairies, Indian councils, and much experience in the
+new western lands.  I remembered the shock it gave me to hear
+after my return from a barbarous country of the calamity that
+had overtaken the fond man whom I called father, and the hot
+fitful life that followed it.  Stop!  ************
+
+Dear me; is it the 21st of July?  Yes, Shaw informed me that it
+was the 21st of July after I recovered from my terrible attack
+of fever; the true date was the 14th of July, but I was not
+aware that I had jumped a week, until I met Dr. Livingstone.
+We two together examined the Nautical Almanack, which I brought
+with me.  We found that the Doctor was three weeks out of his
+reckoning, and to my great surprise I was also one week out,
+or one week ahead of the actual date.  The mistake was made by
+my being informed that I had been two weeks sick, and as the day
+I recovered my senses was Friday, and Shaw and the people were
+morally sure that I was in bed two weeks, I dated it on my Diary
+the 21st of July.  However, on the tenth day after the first of my
+illness, I was in excellent trim again, only, however, to see and
+attend to Shaw, who was in turn taken sick.  By the 22nd July
+Shaw was recovered, then Selim was prostrated, and groaned in his
+delirium for four days, but by the 28th we were all recovered, and
+were beginning to brighten up at the prospect of a diversion in the
+shape of a march upon Mirambo's stronghold.
+
+The morning of the 29th I had fifty men loaded with bales, beads,
+and wire, for Ujiji.  When they were mustered for the march
+outside the tembe, the only man absent was Bombay.  While men were
+sent to search for him, others departed to get one more look, and
+one more embrace with their black Delilahs.  Bombay was found some
+time about 2 P.M., his face faithfully depicting the contending
+passions under which he was labouring--sorrow at parting from the
+fleshpots of Unyanyembe--regret at parting from his Dulcinea of
+Tabora--to be, bereft of all enjoyment now, nothing but
+marches--hard, long marches--to go to the war--to be killed,
+perhaps,  Oh!  Inspired by such feelings, no wonder Bombay was
+inclined to be pugnacious when I ordered him to his place, and I
+was in a shocking bad temper for having been kept waiting from
+8 A.M. to 2 P.M.  for him.  There was simply a word and a savage
+look, and my cane was flying around Bombay's shoulders, as if he
+were to be annihilated.  I fancy that the eager fury of my
+onslaught broke his stubbornness more than anything else; for
+before I had struck him a dozen times he was crying for "pardon."
+At that word I ceased belaboring him, for this was the first time
+he had ever uttered that word.  Bombay was conquered at last.
+
+"March!" and the guide led off, followed in solemn order by
+forty-nine of his fellows, every man carrying a heavy load of
+African moneys, besides his gun, hatchet, and stock of ammunition,
+and his ugali-pot.  We presented quite an imposing sight while thus
+marching on in silence and order, with our flags flying, and the
+red blanket robes of the men streaming behind them as the furious
+north-easter blew right on our flank.
+
+The men seemed to feel they were worth seeing, for I noticed that
+several assumed a more martial tread as they felt their royal Joho
+cloth tugging at their necks, as it was swept streaming behind by
+the wind.  Maganga, a tall Mnyamwezi, stalked along like a very
+Goliah about to give battle alone, to Mirambo and his thousand
+warriors.  Frisky Khamisi paced on under his load, imitating a
+lion and there was the rude jester--the incorrigible Ulimengo--
+with a stealthy pace like a cat.  But their silence could not
+last long.  Their, vanity was so much gratified, the red cloaks
+danced so incessantly before their eyes, that it would have
+been a wonder if they could have maintained such serious gravity
+or discontent one half hour longer.
+
+Ulimengo was the first who broke it.  He had constituted himself
+the kirangozi or guide, and was the standard-bearer, bearing the
+American flag, which the men thought would certainly strike terror
+into the hearts of the enemy.  Growing confident first, then
+valorous, then exultant, he suddenly faced the army he was
+leading, and shouted
+
+        "Hoy!  Hoy !
+Chorus.--Hoy!  Hoy!
+
+         Hoy!  Hoy!
+Chorus.--Hoy!  Hoy!
+
+         Hoy!  Hoy!
+Chorus.--Hoy!  Hoy!
+
+         Where are ye going?
+Chorus.--Going to war.
+
+         Against whom?
+Chorus.--Against Mirambo.
+
+         Who is your master?
+Chorus.--The White Man.
+
+         Ough!  Ough!
+Chorus.--Ough!  Ough!
+
+         Hyah!  Hyah!
+Chorus.--Hyah.  Hyah!"
+
+This was the ridiculous song they kept up all day without
+intermission.
+
+We camped the first day at Bomboma's village, situated a mile to
+the south-west of the natural hill fortress of Zimbili.  Bombay
+was quite recovered from his thrashing, and had banished the sullen
+thoughts that had aroused my ire, and the men having behaved
+themselves so well, a five-gallon pot of pombe was brought to
+further nourish the valour, which they one and all thought they
+possessed.
+
+The second day we arrived at Masangi.  I was visited soon
+afterwards by Soud, the son of Sayd bin Majid, who told me the
+Arabs were waiting for me; that they would not march from Mfuto
+until I had arrived.
+
+Eastern Mfuto, after a six hours' march, was reached on the third
+day from Unyanyembe.  Shaw gave in, laid down in the road, and
+declared he was dying.  This news was brought to me about 4 P.M.
+by one of the last stragglers.  I was bound to despatch men to
+carry him to me, into my camp, though every man was well tired
+after the long march.  A reward stimulated half-a-dozen to
+venture into the forest just at dusk to find Shaw, who was
+supposed to be at least three hours away from camp.
+
+About two o'clock in the morning my men returned, having carried
+Shaw on their backs the entire distance.  I was roused up, and had
+him conveyed to my tent.  I examined him, and I assured myself he
+was not suffering from fever of any kind; and in reply to my
+inquiries as to how he felt, he said he could neither walk nor
+ride, that he felt such extreme weakness and lassitude that he was
+incapable of moving further.  After administering a glass of port
+wine to him in a bowlful of sago gruel, we both fell asleep.
+
+We arrived early the following morning at Mfuto, the rendezvous
+of the Arab army.  A halt was ordered the next day, in order to
+make ourselves strong by eating the beeves, which we freely
+slaughtered.
+
+The personnel of our army was as follows:
+
+Sheikh Sayd bin Salim . .  .  .  .  .   25 half caste
+
+  "    Khamis bin Abdullah .  .  .  .  250 slaves
+
+  "    Thani bin Abdullah .  .  .  .    80   "
+
+  "    Mussoud bin Abdullah .  .  .  .  75   "
+
+  "    Abdullah bin Mussoud .  .  .  .  80   "
+
+  "    Ali bin Sayd bin Nasib .  .  .  250   "
+
+  "    Nasir bin Mussoud .  .  .  .  .  50   "
+
+  "    Hamed Kimiami .  .  .  .  .  .   70   "
+
+  "    Hamdam .  .  .  .  .  .   .  .   30   "
+
+
+  "    Sayd bin Habib .  .  .  .  .  .  50   "
+
+  "    Salim bin Sayf .  .  .  .  .    100   "
+
+  "    Sunguru .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  25    "
+
+  "    Sarboko .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  25    "
+
+  "    Soud bin Sayd bin Majid .  . .  50    "
+
+  "    Mohammed bin Mussoud .  .  . .  30    "
+
+  "    Sayd bin Hamed .  .  .  .  .  . 90    "
+
+  "    The 'Herald' Expedition .  . .  50 soldiers
+
+  "    Mkasiwa's Wanyamwezi .  .  .   800    "
+
+  "    Half-castes and Wangwana .  .  125    "
+
+  "    Independent chiefs and their
+       followers .  .  .  .  .  .  .  300    "
+
+These made a total of 2,255, according to numbers given me by
+Thani bin Abdullah, and corroborated by a Baluch in the pay of
+Sheikh bin Nasib.  Of these men 1,500 were armed with guns--
+flint-lock muskets, German and French double-barrels, some
+English Enfields, and American Springfields--besides these muskets,
+they were mostly armed with spears and long knives for the
+purpose of decapitating, and inflicting vengeful gashes in
+the dead bodies.  Powder and ball were plentiful:  some men were
+served a hundred rounds each, my people received each man sixty
+rounds.
+
+As we filed out of the stronghold of Mfuto, with waving banners
+denoting the various commanders, with booming horns, and the roar
+of fifty bass drums, called gomas--with blessings showered on us
+by the mollahs, and happiest predications from the soothsayers,
+astrologers, and the diviners of the Koran--who could have foretold
+that this grand force, before a week passed over its head, would be
+hurrying into that same stronghold of Mfuto, with each man's heart
+in his mouth from fear?
+
+The date of our leaving Mfuto for battle with Mirambo was the
+3rd of August.  All my goods were stored in Mfuto, ready for the
+march to Ujiji, should we be victorious over the African chief,
+but at least for safety, whatever befel us.
+
+Long before we reached Umanda, I was in my hammock in the
+paroxysms of a fierce attack of intermittent fever, which did
+not leave me until late that night.
+
+At Umanda, six hours from Mfuto, our warriors bedaubed themselves
+with the medicine which the wise men had manufactured for them--a
+compound of matama flour mixed with the juices of a herb whose
+virtues were only known to the Waganga of the Wanyamwezi.
+
+At 6 A.M.  on the 4th of August we were once more prepared for the
+road, but before we were marched out of the village, the "manneno,"
+or speech, was delivered by the orator of the Wanyamwezi:
+
+"Words! words! words!  Listen, sons of Mkasiwa, children of
+Unyamwezi! the journey is before you, the thieves of the forest
+are waiting; yes, they are thieves, they cut up your caravans,
+they steal your ivory, they murder your women.  Behold, the Arabs
+are with you, El Wali of the Arab sultan, and the white man are
+with you.  Go, the son of Mkasiwa is with you; fight; kill, take
+slaves, take cloth, take cattle, kill, eat, and fill yourselves!
+Go!"
+
+"A loud, wild shout followed this bold harangue, the gates of the
+village were thrown open, and blue, red, and white-robed soldiers
+were bounding upward like so many gymnasts; firing their guns
+incessantly, in order to encourage themselves with noise, or to
+strike terror into the hearts of those who awaited us within the
+strong enclosure of Zimbizo, Sultan Kolongo's place.
+
+As Zimbizo was distant only five hours from Umanda, at 11 A.M.
+we came in view of it.  We halted on the verge of the cultivated
+area around it and its neighbours within the shadow of the forest.
+Strict orders had been given by the several chiefs to their
+respective commands not to fire, until they were within shooting
+distance of the boma.
+
+Khamis bin Abdullah crept through the forest to the west of the
+village.  The Wanyamwezi took their position before the main
+gateway, aided by the forces of Soud the son of Sayd on the right,
+and the son of Habib on the left, Abdullah, Mussoud, myself, and
+others made ready to attack the eastern gates, which arrangement
+effectually shut them in, with the exception of the northern side.
+
+Suddenly, a volley opened on us as we emerged from the forest
+along the Unyanyembe road, in the direction they had been
+anticipating the sight of an enemy, and immediately the attacking
+forces began their firing in most splendid style.  There were some
+ludicrous scenes of men pretending to fire, then jumping off to one
+side, then forward, then backward, with the agility of hopping
+frogs, but the battle was none the less in earnest.  The
+breech-loaders of my men swallowed my metallic cartridges much
+faster than I liked to see; but happily there was a lull in the
+firing, and we were rushing into the village from the west, the
+south, the north, through the gates and over the tall palings
+that surrounded the village, like so many Merry Andrews; and
+the poor villagers were flying from the enclosure towards the
+mountains, through the northern gate, pursued by the fleetest
+runners of our force, and pelted in the back by bullets from
+breech-loaders and shot-guns.
+
+The village was strongly defended, and not more than twenty dead
+bodies were found in it, the strong thick wooden paling having
+afforded excellent protection against our bullets.
+
+From Zimbizo, after having left a sufficient force within, we
+sallied out, and in an hour had cleared the neighbourhood of the
+enemy, having captured two other villages, which we committed to
+the flames, after gutting them of all valuables.  A few tusks of
+ivory, and about fifty slaves, besides an abundance of grain,
+composed the "loot," which fell to the lot of the Arabs.
+
+On the 5th, a detachment of Arabs and slaves, seven hundred strong,
+scoured the surrounding country, and carried fire and devastation
+up to the boma of Wilyankuru.
+
+On the 6th, Soud bin Sayd and about twenty other young Arabs led
+a force of five hundred men against Wilyankuru itself, where it
+was supposed Mirambo was living.  Another party went out towards
+the low wooded hills, a short distance north of Zimbizo, near
+which place they surprised a youthful forest thief asleep, whose
+head they stretched backwards, and cut it off as though he were a
+goat or a sheep.  Another party sallied out southward, and defeated
+a party of Mirambo's "bush-whackers," news of which came to our
+ears at noon.
+
+In the morning I had gone to Sayd bin Salim's tembe, to represent
+to him how necessary it was to burn the long grass in the forest
+of Zimbizo, lest it might hide any of the enemy; but soon
+afterwards I had been struck down with another attack of
+intermittent fever, and was obliged to turn in and cover myself
+with blankets to produce perspiration; but not, however, till I
+had ordered Shaw and Bombay not to permit any of my men to leave
+the camp.  But I was told soon afterwards by Selim that more than
+one half had gone to the attack on Wilyankuru with Soud bin Sayd.
+
+About 6 P.M. the entire camp of Zimbizo was electrified with the
+news that all the Arabs who had accompanied Soud bin Sayd had
+been killed; and that more than one-half of his party had been
+slain.  Some of my own men returned, and from them I learned
+that Uledi, Grant's former valet, Mabruki Khatalabu
+(Killer of his father), Mabruki (the Little), Baruti of Useguhha,
+and Ferahan had been killed.  I learned also that they had
+succeeded in capturing Wilyankuru in a very short time, that
+Mirambo and his son were there, that as they succeeded in
+effecting an entrance, Mirambo had collected his men, and after
+leaving the village, had formed an ambush in the grass, on each
+side of the road, between Wilyankuru and Zimbizo, and that as the
+attacking party were returning home laden with over a hundred
+tusks of ivory, and sixty bales of cloth, and two or three hundred
+slaves, Mirambo's men suddenly rose up on each side of them, and
+stabbed them with their spears.  The brave Soud had fired his
+double-barrelled gun and shot two men, and was in the act of
+loading again when a spear was launched, which penetrated through
+and through him: all the other Arabs shared the same fate.
+This sudden attack from an enemy they believed to be conquered
+so demoralized the party that, dropping their spoil, each man
+took to his heels, and after making a wide detour through the
+woods, returned to Zimbizo to repeat the dolorous tale.
+
+The effect of this defeat is indescribable.  It was impossible to
+sleep, from the shrieks of the women whose husbands had fallen.
+All night they howled their lamentations, and sometimes might be
+heard the groans of the wounded who had contrived to crawl through
+the grass unperceived by the enemy.  Fugitives were continually
+coming in throughout the night, but none of my men who were
+reported to be dead, were ever heard of again.
+
+The 7th was a day of distrust, sorrow, and retreat; the Arabs
+accused one another for urging war without expending all peaceful
+means first.  There were stormy councils of war held, wherein
+were some who proposed to return at once to Unyanyembe, and keep
+within their own houses; and Khamis bin Abdullah raved, like an
+insulted monarch, against the abject cowardice of his compatriots.
+These stormy meetings and propositions to retreat were soon known
+throughout the camp, and assisted more than anything else to
+demoralize completely the combined forces of Wanyamwezi and
+slaves.  I sent Bombay to Sayd bin Salim to advise him not to
+think of retreat, as it would only be inviting Mirambo to carry
+the war to Unyanyembe.
+
+After, despatching Bombay with this message, I fell asleep, but
+about 1.30 P.M. I was awakened by Selim saying, "Master, get up,
+they are all running away, and Khamis bin Abdullah is himself
+going."
+
+With the aid of Selim I dressed myself, and staggered towards the
+door.  My first view was of Thani bin Abdullah being dragged away,
+who, when he caught sight of me, shouted out "Bana--quick--Mirambo
+is coming."  He was then turning to run, and putting on his jacket,
+with his eyes almost starting out of their sockets with terror.
+Khamis bin Abdullah was also about departing, he being the last
+Arab to leave.  Two of my men were following him; these Selim
+was ordered to force back with a revolver.  Shaw was saddling
+his donkey with my own saddle, preparatory to giving me the slip,
+and leaving me in the lurch to the tender mercies of Mirambo.
+There were only Bombay, Mabruki Speke, Chanda who was coolly
+eating his dinner, Mabruk Unyauyembe, Mtamani, Juma, and
+Sarmean---only seven out of fifty.  All the others had deserted,
+and were by this time far away, except Uledi (Manwa Sera) and
+Zaidi, whom Selim brought back at the point of a loaded revolver.
+Selim was then told to saddle my donkey, and Bombay to assist
+Shaw to saddle his own.  In a few moments we were on the road,
+the men ever looking back for the coming enemy; they belabored
+the donkeys to some purpose, for they went at a hard trot,
+which caused me intense pain.  I would gladly have lain down
+to die, but life was sweet, and I had not yet given up all
+hope of being able to preserve it to the full and final
+accomplishment of my mission.  My mind was actively at work
+planning and contriving during the long lonely hours of night,
+which we employed to reach Mfuto, whither I found the Arabs had
+retreated.  In the night Shaw tumbled off his donkey, and would
+not rise, though implored to do so.  As I did not despair myself,
+so I did not intend that Shaw should despair.  He was lifted on
+his animal, and a man was placed on each side of him to assist him;
+thus we rode through the darkness.  At midnight we reached Mfuto
+safely, and were at once admitted into the village, from which we
+had issued so valiantly, but to which we were now returned so
+ignominiously.
+
+I found all my men had arrived here before dark.  Ulimengo, the
+bold guide who had exulted in his weapons and in our numbers, and
+was so sanguine of victory, had performed the eleven hours' march
+in six hours; sturdy Chowpereh, whom I regarded as the
+faithfullest of my people, had arrived only half an hour later
+than Ulimengo; and frisky Khamisi, the dandy--the orator--the
+rampant demagogue--yes--he had come third; and Speke's "Faithfuls"
+had proved as cowardly as any poor "nigger" of them all.  Only
+Selim was faithful.
+
+I asked Selim, "Why did you not also run away, and leave your
+master to die?"
+
+"Oh, sir," said the Arab boy, naively, "I was afraid you would
+whip me."
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.  MY LIFE AND TROUBLES IN UNYANYEMBE-(continued).
+
+
+It never occurred to the Arab magnates that I had cause of complaint
+against them, or that I had a right to feel aggrieved at their
+conduct, for the base desertion of an ally, who had, as a duty to
+friendship, taken up arms for their sake.  Their "salaams" the next
+morning after the retreat, were given as if nothing had transpired
+to mar the good feeling that had existed  between us.
+
+They were hardly seated, however, before I began to inform them
+that as the war was only between them and Mirambo, and that as
+I was afraid, if they were accustomed to run away after every
+little check, that the war might last a much longer time than I
+could afford to lose; and that as they had deserted their wounded
+on the field, and left their sick friends to take care of
+themselves, they must not consider me in the light of an ally
+any more.  "I am satisfied," said I, "having seen your mode of
+fighting, that the war will not be ended in so short a time as
+you think it will.  It took you five years, I hear, to conquer
+and kill Manwa Sera, you will certainly not conquer Mirambo in
+less than a year.*  I am a white man, accustomed to wars after
+a different style, I know something about fighting, but I never
+saw people run away from an encampment like ours at Zimbizo for
+such slight cause as you had.  By running away, you have invited
+Mirambo to follow you to Unyanyembe; you may be sure he will come."
+__________________
+* The same war is still raging, April, 1874.
+__________________
+
+The Arabs protested one after another that they had not intended
+to have left me, but the Wanyamwezi of Mkasiwa had shouted out
+that the "Musungu" was gone, and the cry had caused a panic among
+their people, which it was impossible to allay.
+
+Later that day the Arabs continued their retreat to Tabora; which
+is twenty-two miles distant from Mfuto.  I determined to proceed
+more leisurely, and on the second day after the flight from
+Zimbizo, the Expedition, with all the stores and baggage, marched
+back to Masangi, and on the third day to Kwihara.
+
+The following extracts from my Diary will serve to show better
+than anything else, my feelings and thoughts about this time,
+after our disgraceful retreat:
+
+Kwihara.  Friday, 11th August, 1871.--Arrived to-day from Zimbili,
+village of Bomboma's.  I am quite disappointed and almost
+disheartened.  But I have one consolation, I have done my duty by
+the Arabs, a duty I thought I owed to the kindness they received
+me with, now, however, the duty is discharged, and I am free to
+pursue my own course.  I feel happy, for some reasons, that the
+duty has been paid at such a slight sacrifice.  Of course if I
+had lost my life in this enterprise, I should have been justly
+punished.  But apart from my duty to the consideration with
+which the Arabs had received me, was the necessity of trying
+every method of reaching Livingstone.  This road which the war
+with Mirambo has closed, is only a month's march from this place,
+and, if the road could be opened with my aid, sooner than without
+it, why should I refuse my aid?  The attempt has been made for
+the second time to Ujiji--both have failed.  I am going to try
+another route; to attempt to go by the north would be folly.
+Mirambo's mother and people, and the Wasui, are between me and
+Ujiji, without including the Watuta, who are his allies, and
+robbers.  The southern route seems to be the most practicable one.
+Very few people know anything of the country south; those whom
+I have questioned concerning it speak of "want of water" and
+robber Wazavira, as serious obstacles; they also say that the
+settlements are few and far between.
+
+But before I can venture to try this new route, I have to employ
+a new set of men, as those whom I took to Mfuto consider their
+engagements at an end, and the fact of five of their number being
+killed rather damps their ardor for travelling.  It is useless to
+hope that Wanyamwezi can be engaged, because it is against their
+custom to go with caravans, as carriers, during war time.  My
+position is most serious.  I have a good excuse for returning to
+the coast, but my conscience will not permit me to do so, after
+so much money has been expended, and so much confidence has been
+placed in me.  In fact, I feel I must die sooner than return.
+
+Saturday, August 12th.--My men, as I supposed they would, have
+gone; they said that I engaged them to go, to Ujiji by Mirambo's
+road.  I have only thirteen left.
+
+With this small body of men, whither can I go?  I have over one
+hundred loads in the storeroom.  Livingstone's caravan is also
+here; his goods consist of seventeen bales of cloth, twelve boxes,
+and six bags of beads.  His men are luxuriating upon the best the
+country affords.
+
+If Livingstone is at Ujiji, he is now locked up with small means of
+escape.  I may consider myself also locked up at Unyamyembe, and
+I suppose cannot go to Ujiji until this war with Mirambo is
+settled.  Livingstone cannot get his goods, for they are here with
+mine.  He cannot return to Zanzibar, and the road to the Nile is
+blocked up.  He might, if he has men and stores, possibly reach
+Baker by travelling northwards, through Urundi, thence through
+Ruanda, Karagwah, Uganda, Unyoro, and Ubari to Gondokoro.  Pagazis
+he cannot obtain, for the sources whence a supply might be
+obtained are closed.  It is an erroneous supposition to think that
+Livingstone, any more than any other energetic man of his calibre,
+can travel through Africa without some sort of an escort,
+and a durable supply of marketable cloth and beads.
+
+I was told to-day by a man that when Livingstone was coming from
+Nyassa Lake towards the Tanganika (the very time that people
+thought him murdered) he was met by Sayd bin Omar's caravan, which
+was bound for Ulamba.  He was travelling with Mohammed bin Gharib.
+This Arab, who was coming from Urunga, met Livingstone at Chi-cumbi's,
+or Kwa-chi-kumbi's, country, and travelled with him afterwards, I
+hear, to Manyuema or Manyema.  Manyuema is forty marches from
+the north of Nyassa.  Livingstone was walking; he was dressed in
+American sheeting.  He had lost all his cloth in Lake Liemba while
+crossing it in a boat.  He had three canoes with him; in one he
+put his cloth, another he loaded with his boxes and some of his
+men, into the third he went himself with two servants and two
+fishermen.  The boat with his cloth was upset.  On leaving Nyassa,
+Livingstone went to Ubisa, thence to Uemba, thence to Urungu.
+Livingstone wore a cap.  He had a breech-loading double-barreled
+rifle with him, which fired fulminating balls.  He was also armed
+with two revolvers.  The Wahiyow with Livingstone told this man
+that their master had many men with him at first, but that
+several had deserted him.
+
+August 13th.--A caravan came in to-day from the seacoast.  They
+reported that William L. Farquhar, whom I left sick at Mpwapwa,
+Usagara, and his cook, were dead.  Farquhar, I was told, died a few
+days after I had entered Ugogo, his cook died a few weeks later.
+My first impulse was for revenge.  I believed that Leukole had
+played me false, and had poisoned him, or that he had been murdered
+in some other manner; but a personal interview with the Msawahili
+who brought the news informing me that Farquhar had succumbed to
+his dreadful illness has done away with that suspicion.  So far
+as I could understand him, Farquhar had in the morning declared
+himself well enough to proceed, but in attempting to rise, had
+fallen backward and died. I was also told that the Wasagara,
+possessing some superstitious notions respecting the dead, had
+ordered Jako to take the body out for burial, that Jako, not
+being able to carry it, had dragged the body to the jungle,
+and there left it naked without the slightest covering of
+earth, or anything else.
+
+"There is one of us gone, Shaw, my boy!  Who will be the next?"
+I remarked that night to my companion.
+
+August 14th.--Wrote some letters to Zanzibar.  Shaw was taken very
+ill last night.
+
+August 19th.  Saturday.--My soldiers are employed stringing beads.
+Shaw is still a-bed.  We hear that Mirambo is coming to Unyanyembe.
+A detachment of Arabs and their slaves have started this morning to
+possess themselves of the powder left there by the redoubtable
+Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, the commander-in-chief of the Arab
+settlements.
+
+August 21st.  Monday.--Shaw still sick.  One hundred fundo of beads
+have been strung.  The Arabs are preparing for another sally
+against Mirambo.  The advance of Mirambo upon Unyanyembe was denied
+by Sayd bin Salim, this morning.
+
+August 22nd.--We were stringing beads this morning, when, about 10
+A.M., we heard a continued firing from the direction of Tabora.
+Rushing out from our work to the front door facing Tabora, we heard
+considerable volleying, and scattered firing, plainly; and
+ascending to the top of my tembe, I saw with my glasses the
+smoke of the guns.  Some of my men who were sent on to ascertain
+the cause came running back with the information that Mirambo had
+attacked Tabora with over two thousand men, and that a force of
+over one thousand Watuta, who had allied themselves with him for
+the sake of plunder, had come suddenly upon Tabora, attacking from
+opposite directions.
+
+Later in the day, or about noon, watching the low saddle over
+which  we could see Tabora, we saw it crowded with fugitives
+from that settlement, who were rushing to our settlement at
+Kwihara for protection.  From these people we heard the sad
+information that the noble Khamis bin Abdullah, his little protege,
+Khamis, Mohammed bin Abdullah, Ibrahim bin Rashid, and Sayf, the
+son of Ali, the son of Sheikh, the son of Nasib, had been slain.
+
+When I inquired into the details of the attack, and the manner of
+the death of these Arabs, I was told that after the first firing
+which warned the inhabitants of Tabora that the enemy was upon
+them, Khamis bin Abdullah and some of the principal Arabs who
+happened to be with him had ascended to the roof of his tembe,
+and with his spyglass he had looked towards the direction of the
+firing.  To his great astonishment he saw the plain around Tabora
+filled with approaching savages, and about two miles off, near
+Kazima, a tent pitched, which he knew to belong to Mirambo, from
+its having been presented to that chief by the Arabs of Tabora
+when they were on good terms with him.
+
+Khamis bin Abdullah descended to his house saying, "Let us go to
+meet him. Arm yourselves, my friends, and come with me." His
+friends advised him strongly sat to go out of his tembe; for so
+long as each Arab kept to his tembe they were more than a match
+for the Ruga Ruga and the Watuta together.  But Khamis broke out
+impatiently with, "Would you advise us to stop in our tembes,
+for fear of this Mshensi (pagan)?  Who goes with me?"  His little
+protege, Khamis,, son of a dead friend, asked to be allowed to be
+his gun-bearer;.  Mohammed bin Abdulluh, Ibrahim bin Rashid, and
+Sayf, the son of Ali, young Arabs of good families, who were
+proud to live with the noble Khamis, also offered to go with him.
+After hastily arming eighty of his slaves, contrary to the advice
+of his prudent friends, he sallied out, and was soon face to face
+with his cunning and determined enemy Mirambo.  This chief, upon
+seeing the Arabs advance towards him, gave orders to retreat slowly.
+Khamis, deceived by this, rushed on with his friends after them.
+Suddenly Mirambo ordered his men to advance upon them in a body,
+and at the sight of the precipitate rush upon their party, Khamis's
+slaves incontinently took to their heels, never even deigning to cast
+a glance behind them, leaving their master to the fate which was now
+overtaking him.  The savages surrounded the five Arabs, and though
+several of them fell before the Arabs' fire, continued to shoot at
+the little party, until Khamis bin Abdullah received a bullet in
+the leg, which brought him to his knees, and, for the first time,
+to the knowledge that his slaves had deserted him.  Though wounded,
+the brave man continued shooting, but he soon afterwards received
+a bullet through the heart.  Little Khamis, upon seeing his adopted
+father's fall, exclaimed: "My father Khamis is dead, I will die
+with him," and continued fighting until he received, shortly
+after, his death wound.  In a few minutes there was not one Arab
+left alive.
+
+Late at night some more particulars arrived of this tragic scene.
+I was told by people who saw the bodies, that the body of Khamis
+bin Abdullah, who was a fine noble, brave, portly man, was found
+with the skin of his forehead, the beard and skin of the lower part
+of his face, the fore part of the nose, the fat over the stomach
+and abdomen, and, lastly, a bit from each heel, cut off, by the
+savage allies of Mirambo.  And in the same condition were found
+the bodies of his adopted son and fallen friends.  The flesh and
+skin thus taken from the bodies was taken, of course, by the
+waganga or medicine men, to make what they deem to be the most
+powerful potion of all to enable men to be strong against
+their enemies.  This potion is mixed up with their ugali and rice,
+and is taken in this manner with the most perfect confidence in its
+efficacy, as an invulnerable protection against bullets and
+missiles of all descriptions.
+
+It was a most sorry scene to witness from our excited settlement
+at Kwihara, almost the whole of Tabora in flames, and to see the
+hundreds of people crowding into Kwihara.
+
+Perceiving that my people were willing to stand by me, I made
+preparations for defence by boring loopholes for muskets into the
+stout clay walls of my tembe.  They were made so quickly, and
+seemed so admirably adapted for the efficient defence of the
+tembe, that my men got quite brave, and Wangwana refugees with
+guns in their hands, driven out of Tabora, asked to be admitted
+into our tembe to assist in its defence.  Livingstone's men were
+also collected, and invited to help defend their master's goods
+against Mirambo's supposed attack.  By night I had one hundred
+and fifty armed men in my courtyard, stationed at every possible
+point where an attack might be expected.  To-morrow Mirambo has
+threatened that he will come to Kwihara.  I hope he will come, and
+if he comes within range of an American rifle, I shall see what
+virtue lies in American lead.
+
+August 23rd.--We have passed a very anxious day in the valley of
+Kwihara.  Our eyes were constantly directed towards unfortunate
+Tabora.  It has been said that three tembes only have stood the
+brunt of the attack.  Abid bin Suliman's house has been destroyed,
+and over two hundred tusks of ivory that belonged to him have become
+the property of the African Bonaparte.  My tembe is in as efficient
+a state of defence as its style and means of defence will allow.
+Rifle-pits surround the house outside, and all native huts that
+obstructed the view have been torn down, and all trees and shrubs
+which might serve as a shelter for any one of the enemy have been
+cut.  Provisions and water enough for six days have been brought.
+I have ammunition enough to last two weeks.  The walls are three
+feet thick, and there are apartments within apartments, so that
+a desperate body of men could fight until the last room had been
+taken.
+
+The Arabs, my neighbours, endeavour to seem brave, but it is
+evident they are about despairing; I have heard it rumoured that
+the Arabs of Kwihara, if Tabora is taken, will start en masse for
+the coast, and give the country up to Mirambo.  If such are their
+intentions, and they are really carried into effect, I shall be
+in a pretty mess.  However, if they do leave me, Mirambo will not
+reap any benefit from my stores, nor from Livingstone's either,
+for I shall burn the whole house, and everything in it.
+
+August 24th.--The American flag is still waving above my house,
+and the Arabs are still in Unyanyembe.
+
+About 10 A.M., a messenger came from Tabora, asking us if we were
+not going to assist them against Mirambo.  I felt very much like
+going out to help them; but after debating long upon the pros and
+cons of it,--asking myself, Was it prudent?  Ought I to go?  What
+will become of the people if I were killed?  Will they not desert
+me again?  What was the fate of Khamis bin Abdullah?--I sent word
+that I would not go; that they ought to feel perfectly at home in
+their tembes against such a force as Mirambo had, that I should
+be glad if they could induce him to come to Kwihara, in which
+case I would try and pick him off.
+
+They say that Mirambo, and his principal officer, carry umbrellas
+over their heads, that he himself has long hair like a Mnyamwezi
+pagazi, and a beard.  If he comes, all the men carrying umbrellas
+will have bullets rained on them in the hope that one lucky bullet
+may hit him.  According to popular ideas, I should make a silver
+bullet, but I have no silver with me.  I might make a gold one.
+
+About, noon I went over to see Sheikh bin Nasib, leaving about
+100 men inside the house to guard it while I was absent.  This old
+fellow is quite a philosopher in his way.  I should call him a
+professor of minor philosophy.  He is generally so sententious--
+fond of aphorisms, and a very deliberate character.  I was
+astonished to find him so despairing.  His aphorisms have
+deserted him, his philosophy has not been able to stand against
+disaster.  He listened to me, more like a moribund, than one
+possessing all the means of defence and offence.
+
+I loaded his two-pounder with ball, and grape, and small slugs of
+iron, and advised him not to fire it until Mirambo's people were at
+his gates.
+
+About 4 p.m. I heard that Mirambo had deported himself to Kazima,
+a place north-west of Tabora a couple of miles.
+
+August 26th.--The Arabs sallied out this morning to attack Kazima,
+but refrained, because Mirambo asked for a day's grace, to eat the
+beef he had stolen from them.  He has asked them impudently to
+come to-morrow morning, at which time he says he will give them
+plenty of fighting,
+
+Kwihara is once more restored to a peaceful aspect, and fugitives
+no longer throng its narrow limits in fear and despair.
+
+August 27th.--Mirambo retreated during the night; and when the
+Arabs went in force to attack his village of Kazima, they found it
+vacant.
+
+The Arabs hold councils of war now-a-days--battle meetings, of
+which they seem to be very fond, but extremely slow to act upon.
+They were about to make friends with the northern Watuta, but
+Mirambo was ahead of them.  They had talked of invading Mirambo's
+territory the second time, but Mirambo invaded  Unyanyembe with
+fire and sword, bringing death to many a household, and he has
+slain the noblest of them all.
+
+The Arabs spend their hours in talking and arguing, while the Ujiji
+and Karagwah roads are more firmly closed than ever.  Indeed many
+of the influential Arabs are talking of returning to Zanzibar;
+saying, "Unyanyembe is ruined."
+
+Meanwhile, with poor success, however, perceiving the impossibility
+of procuring Wanyamwezi pagazis, I am hiring the Wangwana renegades
+living in Unyanyembe to proceed with me to Ujiji, at treble prices.
+Each man is offered 30 doti, ordinary hire of a carrier being only
+from 5 to 10 doti to Ujiji.  I want fifty men.  I intend to leave
+about sixty or seventy loads here under charge of a guard.  I
+shall leave all personal baggage behind, except one small
+portmanteau.
+
+August 28th.--No news to-day of Mirambo.  Shaw is getting strong
+again.
+
+Sheikh bin Nasib called on me to-day, but, except on minor
+philosophy, he had nothing to say.
+
+I have determined, after a study of the country, to lead a flying
+caravan to Ujiji, by a southern road through northern Ukonongo
+and Ukawendi.  Sheikh bin Nasib has been informed to-night of
+this determination.
+
+August 29th.--Shaw got up to-day for a little work.  Alas! all my
+fine-spun plans of proceeding by boat over the Victoria N'Yanza,
+thence down the Nile, have been totally demolished, I fear,
+through this war with Mirambo--this black Bonaparte.  Two months
+have been wasted here already.  The Arabs take such a long time to
+come to a conclusion.  Advice is plentiful, and words are as
+numerous  as the blades of grass in our valley; all that is wanting
+indecision.  The Arabs' hope and stay is dead--Khamis bin Abdullah
+is no more.  Where are the other warriors of whom the Wangwana
+and Wanyamwezi bards sing?  Where is mighty Kisesa--great Abdullah
+bin Nasib?  Where is Sayd, the son of Majid?  Kisesa is in
+Zanzibar, and Sayd, the son of Majid, is in Ujiji, as yet
+ignorant that his son has fallen in the forest of Wilyankuru.
+
+Shaw is improving fast.  I am unsuccessful as yet in procuring
+soldiers.  I almost despair of ever being able to move from here.
+It is such a drowsy, sleepy, slow, dreaming country.  Arabs,
+Wangwana, Wanyamwezi, are all alike--all careless how time flies.
+Their to-morrow means sometimes within a month.  To me it is
+simply maddening.
+
+August 30th.--Shaw will not work.  I cannot get him to stir
+himself.  I have petted him and coaxed him; I have even cooked
+little luxuries for him myself.  And, while I am straining
+every nerve to get ready for Ujiji, Shaw is satisfied with
+looking on listlessly.  What a change from the ready-handed bold
+man he was at Zanzibar!
+
+I sat down by his side to-day with my palm and needle in order
+to encourage him, and to-day, for the first time, I told him of
+the real nature of my mission.  I told him that I did not care
+about the geography of the country half as much as I cared about
+FINDING LIVINGSTONE!  I told him, for the first time,
+"Now, my dear Shaw, you think probably that I have been sent here
+to find the depth of the Tanganika.  Not a bit of it, man; I was
+told to find Livingstone.  It is to find Livingstone I am here.
+It is to find Livingstone I am going.  Don't you see, old fellow,
+the importance of the mission; don't you see what reward you will
+get from Mr. Bennett, if you will help me?  I am sure, if ever you
+come to New York, you will never be in want of a fifty-dollar bill.
+So shake yourself; jump about; look lively.  Say you will not die;
+that is half the battle.  Snap your fingers at the fever.  I will
+guarantee the fever won't kill you.  I have medicine enough for a
+regiment here!"
+
+His eyes lit up a little, but the light that shone in them shortly
+faded, and died.  I was quite disheartened.  I made some strong
+punch, to put fire in his veins, that I might see life in him.
+I put sugar, and eggs, and seasoned it with lemon and spice.
+"Drink, Shaw," said I, "and forget your infirmities.  You are not
+sick, dear fellow; it is only ennui you are feeling.  Look at
+Selim there.  Now, I will bet any amount, that he will not die;
+that I will carry him home safe to his friends!  I will carry you
+home also, if you will, let me!"
+
+September 1st:--According to Thani bin Abdullah whom I visited
+to-day, at his tembe in Maroro, Mirambo lost two hundred men in
+the attack upon Tabora, while the Arabs' losses were, five Arabs,
+thirteen freemen and eight slaves, besides three tembes, and over
+one hundred small huts burned, two hundred and eighty ivory
+tusks, and sixty cows and bullocks captured.
+
+September 3rd.--Received a packet of letters and newspapers from
+Capt. Webb, at Zanzibar.  What a good thing it is that one's
+friends, even in far America, think of the absent one in Africa!
+They tell me, that no one dreams of my being in Africa yet!
+
+I applied to Sheikh bin Nasib to-day to permit Livingstone's
+caravan to go under my charge to Ujiji, but he would not listen
+to it.  He says he feels certain I am going to my death.
+
+September 4th.--Shaw is quite well to-day, he says.  Selim is down
+with the fever.  My force is gradually increasing, though some of
+my old soldiers are falling off.  Umgareza is blind; Baruti has
+the small-pox very badly; Sadala has the intermittent.
+
+September 5th.--Baruti died this morning.  He was one of my best
+soldiers; and was one of those men who accompanied Speke to Egypt.
+Baruti is number seven of those who have died since leaving
+Zanzibar.
+
+To-day my ears have been poisoned with the reports of the Arabs,
+about the state of the country I am about to travel through.
+"The roads are bad; they are all stopped; the Ruga-Ruga are out
+in the forests; the Wakonongo are coming from the south to help
+Mirambo; the Washensi are at war, one tribe against another."
+My men are getting dispirited, they have imbibed the fears of the
+Arabs and the Wanyamwezi.  Bombay begins to feel that I had better
+go back to the coast, and try again some other time.
+
+We buried Baruti under the shade of the banyan-tree, a few yards
+west of my tembe.  The grave was made four and a half feet deep
+and three feet wide.  At the bottom on one side a narrow trench was
+excavated, into which the body was rolled on his side, with his
+face turned towards Mecca.  The body was dressed in a doti and
+a half of new American sheeting.  After it was placed properly
+in its narrow bed, a sloping roof of sticks, covered over with
+matting and old canvas, was made, to prevent the earth from
+falling over the body.  The grave was then filled, the soldiers
+laughing merrily.  On the top of the grave was planted a small
+shrub, and into a small hole made with the hand, was poured
+water lest he might feel thirsty--they said--on his way to
+Paradise; water was then sprinkled all ever the grave, and
+the gourd broken.  This ceremony being ended, the men recited
+the Arabic Fat-hah, after which they left the grave of their
+dead comrade to think no more of him,
+
+September 7th.--An Arab named Mohammed presented me to-day with a
+little boy-slave, called "Ndugu M'hali" (my brother's wealth).
+As I did not like the name, I called the chiefs of my caravan
+together, and asked them to give him a better name.  One suggested
+"Simba" (a lion), another said he thought "Ngombe" (a cow)
+would suit the boy-child, another thought he ought to be called
+"Mirambo," which raised a loud laugh.  Bombay thought "Bombay
+Mdogo" would suit my black-skinned infant very well.  Ulimengo,
+however, after looking at his quick eyes, and noting his celerity
+of movement, pronounced the name Ka-lu-la as the best for him,
+"because," said he, "just look at his eyes, so bright look at his
+form, so slim! watch his movements, how quick!  Yes, Kalulu is his
+name.""Yes, bana," said the others, "let it be Kalulu."
+
+"Kalulu" is a Kisawahili term for the young of the blue-buck
+(perpusilla) antelope.
+
+"Well, then," said I, water being brought in a huge tin pan,
+Selim, who was willing to stand godfather, holding him over the
+water, "let his name henceforth be Kalulu, and let no man take it
+from him," and thus it was that the little black boy of Mohammed's
+came to be called Kalulu.
+
+The Expedition is increasing in numbers.
+
+We had quite an alarm before dark.  Much firing was heard at
+Tabora, which led us to anticipate an attack on Kwihara.  It
+turned out, however, to be a salute fired in honour of the arrival
+of Sultan Kitambi to pay a visit to Mkasiwa, Sultan of Unyanyembe.
+
+September 8th.--Towards night Sheikh bin Nasib received a letter
+from an Arab at Mfuto, reporting that an attack was made on that
+place by Mirambo and his Watuta allies.  It also warned him to bid
+the people of Kwihara hold themselves in readiness, because if
+Mirambo succeeded in storming Mfuto, he would march direct on
+Kwihara.
+
+September 9th.--Mirambo was defeated with severe loss yesterday,
+in his attack upon Mfuto.  He was successful in an assault he made
+upon a small Wanyamwezi village, but when he attempted to storm
+Mfuto, he was repulsed with severe loss, losing three of his
+principal men.  Upon withdrawing his forces from the attack, the
+inhabitants sallied out, and followed him to the forest of Umanda,
+where he was again utterly routed, himself ingloriously flying
+from the field.
+
+The heads of his chief men slain in the attack were brought to
+Kwikuru, the boma of Mkasiwa.
+
+September 14th.--The Arab boy Selim is delirious from constant
+fever.  Shaw is sick again.  These two occupy most of my time.
+I am turned into a regular nurse, for I have no one to assist
+me in attending upon them.  If I try to instruct Abdul Kader
+in the art of being useful, his head is so befogged with the
+villainous fumes of Unyamwezi tobacco, that he wanders bewildered
+about, breaking dishes, and upsetting cooked dainties, until
+I get so exasperated that my peace of mind is broken completely
+for a full hour.  If I ask Ferajji, my now formally constituted
+cook, to assist, his thick wooden head fails to receive an idea,
+and I am thus obliged to play the part of chef de cuisine.
+
+September 15th.--The third month of my residence in Unyanyembe is
+almost finished, and I am still here, but I hope to be gone before
+the 23rd inst.
+
+All last night, until nine A.M. this morning, my soldiers danced
+and sang to the names of their dead comrades, whose bones now
+bleach in the forests of Wilyankuru.  Two or three huge pots of
+pombe failed to satisfy the raging thirst which the vigorous
+exercise they were engaged in, created.  So, early this
+morning, I was called upon to contribute a shukka for another
+potful of the potent liquor.
+
+To-day I was busy selecting the loads for each soldier and
+pagazi.  In order to lighten their labor as much as possible, I
+reduced each load from 70 lbs. to 50 lbs., by which I hope to be
+enabled to make some long marches.  I have been able to engage ten
+pagazis during the last two or three days.
+
+I have two or three men still very sick, and it is almost useless
+to expect that they will be able to carry anything, but I
+am in hopes that other men may be engaged to take their places
+before the actual day of departure, which now seems to be drawing
+near rapidly.
+
+September 16th.--We have almost finished our work--on the fifth day
+from this--God willing--we shall march. I engaged two more pagazis
+besides two guides, named Asmani and Mabruki.  If vastness of the
+human form could terrify any one, certainly Asmani's appearance
+is well calculated to produce that effect.  He stands considerably
+over six feet without shoes, and has shoulders broad enough for two
+ordinary men.
+
+To-morrow I mean to give the people a farewell feast, to celebrate
+our departure from this forbidding and unhappy country.
+
+September 17th.--The banquet is ended.  I slaughtered two bullocks,
+and had a barbacue; three sheep, two goats, and fifteen chickens,
+120 lbs. of rice, twenty large loaves of bread made of Indian
+corn-flour, one hundred eggs, 10 lbs. of butter, and five gallons
+of sweet-milk, were the contents of which the banquet was formed.
+The men invited their friends and neighbours, and about one hundred
+women and children partook of it.
+
+After the banquet was ended, the pombe, or native beer, was brought
+in in five gallon pots, and the people commenced their dance,
+which continues even now as I write.
+
+September 19th.--I had a slight attack of fever to-day, which has
+postponed our departure.  Selim and Shaw are both recovered.
+
+About 8 P.M. Sheik bin Nasib came to me imploring me not to go
+away to-morrow, because I was so sick.  Thani Sakhburi suggested
+to me that I might stay another month.  In answer, I told them
+that white men are not accustomed to break their words.  I had
+said I would go, and I intended to go.
+
+Sheikh bin Nasib gave up all hope of inducing me to remain another
+day, and he has gone away, with a promise to write to Seyd Burghash
+to tell him how obstinate I am; and that I am determined to be
+killed.  This was a parting shot.
+
+About 10 P.M. the fever had gone.  All were asleep in the tembe
+but myself, and an unutterable loneliness came on me as I reflected
+on my position, and my intentions, and felt the utter lack of
+sympathy with me in all around.  It requires more nerve than I
+possess, to dispel all the dark presentiments that come upon the
+mind.  But probably what I call presentiments are simply the
+impress on the mind of the warnings which these false-hearted Arabs
+have repeated so often.  This melancholy and loneliness I feel,
+may probably have their origin from the same cause.  The single
+candle, which barely lights up the dark shade that fills the
+corners of my room, is but a poor incentive to cheerfulness.
+I feel as though I were imprisoned between stone walls.  But why
+should I feel as if baited by these stupid, slow-witted Arabs and
+their warnings and croakings?  I fancy a suspicion haunts my
+mind, as I write, that there lies some motive behind all this.
+I wonder if these Arabs tell me all these things to keep me here,
+in the hope that I might be induced another time to assist them
+in their war with Mirambo!  If they think so, they are much
+mistaken, for I have taken a solemn, enduring oath, an oath to be
+kept while the least hope of life remains in me, not to be tempted
+to break the resolution I have formed, never to give up the search,
+until I find Livingstone alive, or find his dead body; and never
+to return home without the strongest possible proofs that he is
+alive, or that he is dead.  No living man, or living men, shall
+stop me, only death can prevent me.  But death--not even this;
+I shall not die, I will not die, I cannot die!  And something
+tells me, I do not know what it is--perhaps it is the ever-
+living hopefulness of my own nature, perhaps it is the natural
+presumption born out of an abundant and glowing vitality, or
+the outcome of an overweening confidence in oneself--anyhow and
+everyhow, something tells me to-night I shall find him, and--write
+it larger--FIND HIM!  FIND HIM!  Even the words are inspiring.
+I feel more happy.  Have I uttered a prayer?  I shall sleep
+calmly to-night.
+
+I have felt myself compelled to copy out of my Diary the above
+notes, as they explain, written as they are on the spot, the
+vicissitudes of my "Life at Unyanyembe."  To me they appear
+to explain far better than any amount of descriptive writing,
+even of the most graphic, the nature of the life I led.  There
+they are, unexaggerated, in their literality, precisely as I
+conceived them at the time they happened.  They speak of fevers
+without number to myself and men, they relate our dangers, and
+little joys, our annoyances and our pleasures, as they occurred.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.  TO MRERA, UKONONGO.
+
+Departure from Unyanyembe.--The expedition reorganized.-Bombay.--
+Mr. Shaw returns sick to Unyanyembe.--A noble forest.-The fever
+described.--Happiness of the camp.--A park-land.--Herds of game
+and noble sport.--A mutiny.--Punishment of the ringleaders.
+Elephants.--Arrival at Mrera
+
+The 20th of September had arrived.  This was the day I had decided
+to cut loose from those who tormented me with their doubts, their
+fears, and beliefs, and commence the march to Ujiji by a southern
+route.  I was very weak from the fever that had attacked me the
+day before, and it was a most injudicious act to commence a march
+under such circumstances.  But I had boasted to Sheikh bin Nasib
+that a white man never breaks his word, and my reputation as a
+white man would have been ruined had I stayed behind, or postponed
+the march, in consequence of feebleness.
+
+I mustered the entire caravan outside the tembe, our flags and
+streamers were unfurled, the men had their loads resting on the
+walls, there was considerable shouting, and laughing, and negroidal
+fanfaronnade.  The Arabs had collected from curiosity's sake to see
+us off--all except Sheikh bin Nasib, whom I had offended by my
+asinine opposition to his wishes.  The old Sheikh took to his bed,
+but sent his son to bear me a last morsel of Philosophic
+sentimentality, which I was to treasure up as the last words of
+the patriarchal Sheikh, the son of Nasib, the son of Ali, the son
+of Sayf.  Poor Sheikh! if thou hadst only known what was at the
+bottom of this stubbornness--this ass-like determination to proceed
+the wrong way--what wouldst thou then have said, 0 Sheikh?  But the
+Sheikh comforted himself with the thought that I might know what I
+was about better than he did, which is most likely, only neither
+he nor any other Arab will ever know exactly the motive that
+induced me to march at all westward--when the road to the east was
+ever so much easier.
+
+My braves whom I had enlisted for a rapid march somewhere, out of
+Unyanyembe, were named as follows:--
+
+1.  John William Shaw, London, England.
+
+2.  Selim Heshmy, Arab.
+
+3.  Seedy Mbarak Mombay, Zanzibar.
+
+4.  Mabruki Spoke, ditto.
+
+5.  Ulimengo, ditto
+
+6.  Ambari, ditto.
+
+7.  Uledi, ditto.
+
+8.  Asmani, ditto.
+
+9.  Sarmean, ditto.
+
+10.  Kamna, ditto.
+
+11.  Zaidi, ditto.
+
+12.  Khamisi, ditto.
+
+13.  Chowpereh, Bagamoyo.
+
+14.  Kingaru, ditto.
+
+15.  Belali, ditto.
+
+16.  Ferous, Unyanyembe.
+
+17.  Rojab,  Bagamoyo.
+
+18.  Mabruk Unyanyembe, Unyanyembe.
+
+19.  Mtamani, ditto.
+
+20.  Chanda, Maroro.
+
+21.  Sadala, Zanzibar.
+
+22.  Kombo, ditto.
+
+23.  Saburi the Great, Maroro.
+
+24.  Saburi the Little, ditto.
+
+25.  Marora, ditto.
+
+26.  Ferajji (the cook), Zanzibar.
+
+27.  Mabruk Saleem, Zanzibar.
+
+28.  Baraka, ditto.
+
+29.  Ibrahim, Maroro.
+
+30.  Mabruk Ferous, ditto.
+
+31.  Baruti, Bagamoyo.
+
+32.  Umgareza, Zanzibar.
+
+33.  Hamadi (the guide), ditto.
+
+34.  Asmani,   ditto,    ditto.
+
+35.  Mabruk,   ditto     ditto.
+
+36.  Hamdallah (the guide), Tabora.
+
+37.  Jumah, Zanzibar.
+
+38.  Maganga, Mkwenkwe.
+
+39.  Muccadum, Tabora.
+
+40.  Dasturi, ditto.
+
+41.  Tumayona, Ujiji.
+
+42.  Mparamoto, Ujiji.
+
+43.  Wakiri, ditto.
+
+44.  Mufu, ditto.
+
+45.  Mpepo, ditto.
+
+46.  Kapingu, Ujiji.
+
+47.  Mashishanga, ditto.
+
+48.  Muheruka, ditto.
+
+49.  Missossi, ditto.
+
+50.  Tufum Byah, ditto.
+
+51.  Majwara (boy), Uganda.
+
+52.  Belali (boy), Uemba.
+
+53.  Kalulu (boy), Lunda.
+
+54.  Abdul Kader (tailor), Malabar.
+
+
+These are the men and boys whom I had chosen to be my companions
+on the apparently useless mission of seeking for the lost traveller,
+David Livingstone.  The goods with which I had burdened them,
+consisted of 1,000 doti, or 4,000 yds. of cloth, six bags of beads,
+four loads of ammunition, one tent, one bed and clothes, one box of
+medicine, sextant and books, two loads of tea, coffee, and sugar,
+one load of flour and candles, one load of canned meats, sardines,
+and miscellaneous necessaries, and one load of cooking utensils.
+
+The men were all in their places except Bombay.  Bombay had gone;
+he could not be found.  I despatched a man to hunt him up.  He
+was found weeping in the arms of his Delilah.
+
+"Why did you go away, Bombay, when you knew I intended to go, and
+was waiting?"
+
+"Oh, master, I was saying good-bye to my missis."
+
+" Oh, indeed?"
+
+"Yes, master; you no do it, when you go away?
+
+"Silence, sir."
+
+"Oh! all right."
+
+"What is the matter with you, Bombay?"
+
+"Oh, nuffin."
+
+As I saw he was in a humour to pick a quarrel with me before those
+Arabs who had congregated outside of my tembe to witness my departure;
+and as I was not in a humour to be balked by anything that might turn
+up, the consequence was, that I was obliged to thrash Bombay, an
+operation which soon cooled his hot choler, but brought down on my
+head a loud chorus of remonstrances from my pretended Arab friends--
+"Now, master, don't, don't--stop it, master: the poor man knows
+better than you what he and you may expect on the road you are now
+taking."
+
+If anything was better calculated to put me in a rage than Bombay's
+insolence before a crowd it was this gratuitous interference with
+what I considered my own especial business; but I restrained
+myself, though I told them, in a loud voice, that I did not choose
+to be interfered with, unless they wished to quarrel with me.
+
+"No, no, bana," they all exclaimed; "we do not wish to quarrel
+with you.  In the name of God! go on your way in peace."
+
+"Fare you well, then," said I, shaking hands with them.
+
+"Farewell, master, farewell.  We wish you, we are sure, all
+success, and God be with you, and guide you!"
+
+"March!"
+
+A parting salute was fired; the flags were raised up by the
+guides, each pagazi rushed for his load, and in a short time,
+with songs and shouts, the head of the Expedition had filed
+round the western end of my tembe along the road to Ugunda.
+
+"Now, Mr. Shaw, I am waiting, sir.  Mount your donkey, if you
+cannot walk."
+
+"Please, Mr. Stanley, I am afraid I cannot go."
+
+Why?"
+
+"I don't know, I am sure.  I feel very weak."
+
+"So am I weak.  It was but late last night, as you know, that the
+fever left me.  Don't back out before these Arabs; remember you
+are a white man.  Here, Selim, Mabruki, Bombay, help Mr. Shaw on
+his donkey, and walk by him."
+
+"Oh, bana, bans," said the Arabs, "don't take him.  Do you not see
+he is sick?  "
+
+" You keep away; nothing will prevent me from taking him.  He
+shall go."
+
+"Go on, Bombay."
+
+The last of my party had gone.  The tembe, so lately a busy
+scene, had already assumed a naked, desolate appearance.
+I turned towards the Arabs, lifted my hat, and said again,
+"Farewell," then faced about for the south, followed by my
+four young gun-bearers, Selim, Kalulu, Majwara, and Belali.
+
+After half an hour's march the scenery became more animated.
+Shaw began to be amused.  Bombay had forgotten our quarrel,
+and assured me, if I could pass Mirambo's country, I should
+"catch the Tanganika;" Mabruki Burton also believed we should.
+Selim was glad to leave Unyanyembe, where he had suffered so much
+from fever; and there was a something in the bold aspect of the
+hills which cropped upward--above fair valleys, that enlivened
+and encouraged me to proceed.
+
+In an hour and a half, we arrived at our camp in the Kinyamwezi
+village of Mkwenkwe, the birthplace--of our famous chanter Maganga.
+
+My tent was pitched, the goods were stored in one of the tembes;
+but one-half the men had returned to Kwihara, to take one more
+embrace of their wives and concubines.
+
+Towards night I was attacked once again with the intermittent
+fever.  Before morning it had departed, leaving me terribly
+prostrated with weakness.  I had heard the men conversing with each
+other over their camp-fires upon the probable prospects of the next
+day.  It was a question with them whether I should continue the
+march.  Mostly all were of opinion that, since the master was
+sick, there would be no march.  A superlative obstinacy, however,
+impelled me on, merely to spite their supine souls; but when I
+sallied out of my tent to call them to get ready, I found that
+at least twenty were missing; and Livingstone's letter-carrier,
+"Kaif-Halek"--or, How-do-ye-do?--had not arrived with Dr.
+Livingstone's letter-bag.
+
+Selecting twenty of the strongest and faithfulest men I despatched
+them back to Unyanyembe in search of the missing men; and Selim
+was sent to Sheikh bin Nasib to borrow, or buy, a long slave-chain.
+
+Towards night my twenty detectives returned with nine of the
+missing men.  The Wajiji had deserted in a body, and they could
+not be found.  Selim also returned with a strong chain, capable of
+imprisoning within the collars attached to it at least ten men.
+Kaif-Halek also appeared with the letter-bag which he was to convey
+to Livingstone under my escort.  The men were then addressed, and
+the slave-chain exhibited to them.  I told them that I was the
+first white man who had taken a slave-chain with him on his travels;
+but, as they were all so frightened of accompanying me, I was obliged
+to make use of it, as it was the only means of keeping them together.
+The good need never fear being chained by me--only the deserters,
+the thieves, who received their hire and presents, guns and
+ammunition, and then ran away.
+
+I would not put any one this time in chains; but whoever
+deserted after this day, I should halt, and not continue the march
+till I found him, after which he should march to Ujiji with the
+slave-chain round his neck.  "Do you hear?"--"Yes," was the
+answer.  "Do you understand?"--" Yes."
+
+We broke up camp at 6 P.M., and took the road for Inesuka, at which
+place we arrived at 8 P.M.
+
+When we were about commencing the march the next morning, it was
+discovered that two more had deserted.  Baraka and Bombay were at
+once despatched to Unyanyembe to bring back the two missing
+men--Asmani and Kingaru--with orders not to return without them.
+This was the third time that the latter had deserted, as the reader
+may remember.  While the pursuit was being effected we halted at
+the village of Inesuka, more for the sake of Shaw than any one
+else.
+
+In the evening the incorrigible deserters were brought back, and,
+as I had threatened, were well flogged and chained, to secure them
+against further temptation.  Bombay and Baraka had a picturesque
+story to relate of the capture; and, as I was in an exceedingly
+good humour, their services were rewarded with a fine cloth each.
+
+On the following morning another carrier had absconded, taking with
+him his hire of fifteen new cloths and a gun but to halt anywhere
+near Unyanyembe any longer was a danger that could be avoided only
+by travelling without stoppages towards the southern jungle-lands.
+It will be remembered I had in my train the redoubtable Abdul
+Kader, the tailor, he who had started from Bagamoyo with such
+bright anticipations of the wealth of ivory to be obtained in the
+great interior of Africa.  On this morning, daunted by the reports
+of the dangers ahead, Abdul Kader craved to be discharged.  He
+vowed he was sick, and unable to proceed any further.  As I was
+pretty well tired of him, I paid him off in cloth, and permitted
+him to go.
+
+About half way to Kasegera Mabruk Saleem was suddenly taken sick.
+I treated him with a grain of calomel, and a couple of ounces of
+brandy.  As he was unable to walk, I furnished him with a donkey.
+Another man named Zaidi was ill with a rheumatic fever; and Shaw
+tumbled twice off the animal he was riding, and required an
+infinite amount of coaxing to mount again.  Verily, my expedition
+was pursued by adverse fortunes, and it seemed as if the Fates had
+determined upon our return.  It really appeared as if everything
+was going to wreck and ruin.  If I were only fifteen days from
+Unyanyembe, thought I, I should be saved!
+
+Kasegera was a scene of rejoicing the afternoon and evening of our
+arrival.  Absentees had just returned from the coast, and the
+youths were brave in their gaudy bedizenment, their new barsatis,
+their soharis, and long cloths of bright new kaniki, with which
+they had adorned themselves behind some bush before they had
+suddenly appeared dressed in all this finery.  The women "Hi-hi'ed"
+like maenads, and the "Lu-lu-lu'ing" was loud, frequent, and
+fervent the whole of that afternoon.  Sylphlike damsels looked up
+to the youthful heroes with intensest admiration on their
+features; old women coddled and fondled them; staff-using,
+stooping-backed patriarchs blessed them.  This is fame in Unyamwezi!
+All the fortunate youths had to use their tongues until the wee
+hours of next morning had arrived, relating all the wonders they
+had seen near the Great Sea, and in the "Unguja," the island of
+Zanzibar; of how they saw great white men's ships, and numbers of
+white men, of their perils and trials during their journey through
+the land of the fierce Wagogo, and divers other facts, with which
+the reader and I are by this time well acquainted.
+
+On the 24th we struck camp, and marched through a forest of imbiti
+wood in a S.S.W. direction, and in about three hours came to Kigandu.
+
+On arriving before this village, which is governed by a daughter
+of Mkasiwa, we were informed we could not enter unless we paid
+toll.  As we would not pay toll, we were compelled to camp in a
+ruined, rat-infested boma, situated a mile to the left of Kigandu,
+being well scolded by the cowardly natives for deserting Mkasiwa
+in his hour of extremity.  We were accused of running away from
+the war.
+
+Almost on the threshold of our camp Shaw, in endeavouring to
+dismount, lost his stirrups, and fell prone on his face.  The
+foolish fellow actually, laid on the ground in the hot sun a
+full hour; and when I coldly asked him if he did not feel
+rather uncomfortable, he sat up, and wept like a child.
+
+"Do you wish to go back, Mr. Shaw?"
+
+"If you please.  I do not believe I can go any farther; and
+if you would only be kind enough, I should like to return very
+much."
+
+"Well, Mr.  Shaw, I have come to the conclusion that it is best,
+you should return.  My patience is worn out.  I have endeavoured
+faithfully to lift you above these petty miseries which you
+nourish so devotedly.  You are simply suffering from hypochondria.
+You imagine yourself sick, and nothing, evidently, will persuade
+you that you are not.  Mark my words--to return to Unyanyembe,
+is to DIE!  Should you happen to fall sick in Kwihara who knows
+how to administer medicine to you?  Supposing you are delirious,
+how can any of the soldiers know what you want, or what is
+beneficial and necessary for you?  Once again, I repeat, if you
+return, you DIE!"
+
+"Ah, dear me; I wish I had never ventured to come!  I thought
+life in Africa was so different from this.  I would rather go
+back if you will permit me."
+
+The next day was a halt, and arrangements were made for the
+transportation of Shaw back to Kwihara.  A strong litter was made,
+and four stout pagazis were hired at Kigandu to carry him.  Bread
+was baked, a canteen was filled with cold tea, and a leg of a kid
+was roasted for his sustenance while on the road.
+
+The night before we parted we spent together.  Shaw played some
+tunes on an accordion which I had purchased for him at Zanzibar;
+but, though it was only a miserable ten-dollar affair, I thought
+the homely tunes evoked from the instrument that night were divine
+melodies.  The last tune played before retiring was "Home, sweet
+Home."
+
+The morning of the 27th we were all up early:  There was considerable
+vis in our movements.  A long, long march lay before us that day;
+but then I was to leave behind all the sick and ailing.  Only
+those who were healthy, and could march fast and long, were to
+accompany me.  Mabruk Saleem I left in charge of a native doctor,
+who was to medicate him for a gift of cloth which I gave him in
+advance.
+
+The horn sounded to get ready.  Shaw was lifted in his litter on
+the shoulders of his carriers.  My men formed two ranks; the
+flags were lifted; and between these two living rows, and under
+those bright streamers, which were to float over the waters of
+the Tanganika before he should see them again, Shaw was borne
+away towards the north; while we filed off to the south, with
+quicker and more elastic steps, as if we felt an incubus had
+been taken from us.
+
+We ascended a ridge bristling with syenite boulders of massive
+size, appearing above a forest of dwarf trees.  The view which we
+saw was similar to that we had often seen elsewhere.  An
+illimitable forest stretching in grand waves far beyond the ken of
+vision--ridges, forest-clad, rising gently one above another until
+they receded in the dim purple-blue distance --with a warm haze
+floating above them, which, though clear enough in our
+neighbourhood, became impenetrably blue in the far distance.
+Woods, woods, woods, leafy branches, foliage globes, or
+parachutes, green, brown, or sere in colour, forests one above
+another, rising, falling, and receding--a very leafy ocean.  The
+horizon, at all points, presents the same view, there may be an
+indistinct outline of a hill far away, or here and there a tall
+tree higher than the rest conspicuous in its outlines against the
+translucent sky--with this exception it is the same--the same clear
+sky dropping into the depths of the forest, the same outlines, the
+same forest, the same horizon, day after day, week after week; we
+hurry to the summit of a ridge, expectant of a change, but the
+wearied eyes, after wandering over the vast expanse, return to the
+immediate surroundings, satiated with the eversameness of such
+scenes.  Carlyle, somewhere in his writings, says, that though the
+Vatican is great, it is but the chip of an eggshell compared to the
+star-fretted dome where Arcturus and Orion glance for ever; and I
+say that, though the grove of Central Park, New York, is grand
+compared to the thin groves seen in other great cities, that though
+the Windsor and the New Forests may be very fine and noble in
+England, yet they are but fagots of sticks compared to these
+eternal forests of Unyamwezi.
+
+We marched three hours, and then halted for refreshments.  I
+perceived that the people were very tired, not yet inured to a
+series of long marches, or rather, not in proper trim for earnest,
+hard work after our long rest in Kwihara.  When we resumed our
+march again there were several manifestations of bad temper and
+weariness.  But a few good-natured remarks about their laziness
+put them on their mettle, and we reached Ugunda at 2 P.M. after
+another four hours' spurt.
+
+Ugunda is a very large village in the district of Ugunda, which
+adjoins the southern frontier of Unyanyembe.  The village probably
+numbers four hundred families, or two thousand souls.  It is well
+protected by a tall and strong palisade of three-inch timber.
+Stages have been erected at intervals above the palisades with
+miniature embrasures in the timber, for the muskets of the
+sharpshooters, who take refuge within these box-like stages to
+pick out the chiefs of an attacking force.  An inner ditch, with
+the sand or soil thrown up three or four feet high against the
+palings, serves as protection for the main body of the defenders,
+who kneel in the ditch, and are thus enabled to withstand a very
+large force.  For a mile or two outside the village all obstructions
+are  cleared, and the besieged are thus warned by sharp-eyed watchers
+to be prepared for the defence before the enemy approaches within
+musket range.  Mirambo withdrew his force of robbers from before
+this strongly-defended village after two or three ineffectual attempts
+to storm it, and the Wagunda have been congratulating themselves
+ever since, upon having driven away the boldest marauder that
+Unyamwezi has seen for generations.
+
+The Wagunda have about three thousand acres under cultivation
+around their principal village, and this area suffices to produce
+sufficient grain not only for their own consumption, but also for
+the many caravans which pass by this way for Ufipa and Marungu.
+
+However brave the Wagunda may be within the strong enclosure with
+which they have surrounded their principal village, they are not
+exempt from the feeling of insecurity which fills the soul of a
+Mnyamwezi during war-time.  At this place the caravans are
+accustomed to recruit their numbers from the swarms of pagazis who
+volunteer to accompany them to the distant ivory regions south;
+but I could not induce a soul to follow me, so great was their
+fear of Mirambo and his Ruga-Raga.  They were also full of rumors
+of wars ahead.  It was asserted that Mbogo was advancing towards
+Ugunda with a thousand Wakonongo, that the Wazavira had attacked a
+caravan four months previously, that Simba was scouring the country
+with a band of ferocious mercenaries, and much more of the same
+nature and to the same intent.
+
+On the 28th we arrived at a small snug village embosomed within the
+forest called Benta, three hours and a quarter from Ugunda.  The
+road led through the cornfields of the Wagunda, and then entered
+the clearings around the villages of Kisari, within one of which we
+found the proprietor of a caravan who was drumming up carriers for
+Ufipa.  He had been halted here two months, and he made strenuous
+exertions to induce my men to join his caravan, a proceeding that
+did not tend to promote harmony between us.  A few days afterwards
+I found, on my return, that he had given up the idea of proceeding
+south.  Leaving Kisari, we marched through a thin jungle of black
+jack, over sun-cracked ground with here and there a dried-up pool,
+the bottom of which was well tramped by elephant and rhinoceros.
+Buffalo and zebra tracks were now frequent, and we were buoyed up
+with the hope that before long we should meet game.
+
+Benta was well supplied with Indian corn and a grain which the
+natives called choroko, which I take to be vetches.  I purchased
+a large supply of choroko for my own personal use, as I found it
+to be a most healthy food.  The corn was stored on the flat roofs
+of the tembes in huge boxes made out of the bark of the mtundu-tree.
+The largest box I have ever seen in Africa was seen here.  It might
+be taken for a Titan's hat-box; it was seven feet in diameter, and
+ten feet in height.
+
+On the 29th, after travelling in a S.W. by S. direction, we
+reached Kikuru.  The march lasted for five hours over sun-cracked
+plains, growing the black jack, and ebony, and dwarf shrubs, above
+which numerous ant-hills of light chalky-coloured earth appeared
+like sand dunes.
+
+The mukunguru, a Kisawahili term for fever, is frequent in this
+region of extensive forests and flat plains, owing to the imperfect
+drainage provided by nature for them.  In the dry season there
+is nothing very offensive in the view of the country.  The burnt
+grass gives rather a sombre aspect to the country, covered with
+the hard-baked tracks of animals which haunt these plains during
+the latter part of the rainy season.  In the forest numbers of
+trees lie about in the last stages of decay, and working
+away with might and main on the prostrate trunks may be seen
+numberless insects of various species.  Impalpably, however, the
+poison of the dead and decaying vegetation is inhaled into the
+system with a result sometimes as fatal as that which is said to
+arise from the vicinity of the Upas-tree.
+
+The first evil results experienced from the presence of malaria are
+confined bowels and an oppressive languor, excessive drowsiness,
+and a constant disposition to yawn.  The tongue assumes a
+yellowish, sickly hue, coloured almost to blackness; even the
+teeth become yellow, and are coated with an offensive matter.
+The eyes of the patient sparkle lustrously, and become suffused
+with water.  These are sure symptoms of the incipient fever which
+shortly will rage through the system.
+
+Sometimes this fever is preceded by a violent shaking fit, during
+which period blankets may be heaped on the patient's form, with
+but little amelioration of the deadly chill he feels.  It is then
+succeeded by an unusuall/y/ severe headache, with excessive pains
+about the loins and spinal column, which presently will spread
+over the shoulder-blades, and, running up the neck, find a final
+lodgment in the back and front of the head.  Usually, however, the
+fever is not preceded by a chill, but after languor and torpitude
+have seized him, with excessive heat and throbbing temples, the
+loin and spinal column ache, and raging thirst soon possesses him.
+The brain becomes crowded with strange fancies, which sometimes
+assume most hideous shapes.  Before the darkened vision of the
+suffering man, float in a seething atmosphere, figures of created
+and uncreated reptiles, which are metamorphosed every instant into
+stranger shapes and designs, growing every moment more confused,
+more complicated, more hideous and terrible.  Unable to bear longer
+the distracting scene, he makes an effort and opens, his eyes,
+and dissolves the delirious dream, only, however, to glide again
+unconsciously into another dream-land where another unreal inferno
+is dioramically revealed, and new agonies suffered.  Oh! the many
+many hours, that I have groaned under the terrible incubi which
+the fits of real delirium evoke.  Oh! the racking anguish of body
+that a traveller in Africa must undergo!  Oh! the spite, the
+fretfulness, the vexation which the horrible phantasmagoria of
+diabolisms induce!  The utmost patience fails to appease, the most
+industrious attendance fails to gratify, the deepest humility
+displeases.  During these terrible transitions, which induce
+fierce distraction, Job himself would become irritable, insanely
+furious, and choleric.  A man in such a state regards himself as
+the focus of all miseries.  When recovered, he feels chastened,
+becomes urbane and ludicrously amiable, he conjures up fictitious
+delights from all things which, but yesterday, possessed for him
+such awful portentous aspects.  His men he regards with love and
+friendship; whatever is trite he views with ecstasy.  Nature appears
+charming; in the dead woods and monotonous forest his mind becomes
+overwhelmed with delight.  I speak for myself, as a careful
+analysation of the attack, in all its severe, plaintive, and silly
+phases, appeared to me.  I used to amuse myself with taking notes
+of the humorous and the terrible, the fantastic and exaggerated
+pictures that were presented to me--even while suffering the
+paroxysms induced by fever.
+
+We arrived at a large pool, known as the Ziwani, after a four
+hours' march in a S.S.W. direction, the 1st of October.  We
+discovered an old half-burnt khambi, sheltered by a magnificent
+mkuyu (sycamore), the giant of the forests of Unyamwezi, which
+after an hour we transformed into a splendid camp.
+
+If I recollect rightly, the stem of the tree measured thirty-eight
+feet in circumference.  It is the finest tree of its kind I have
+seen in Africa.  A regiment might with perfect ease have reposed
+under this enormous dome of foliage during a noon halt.  The
+diameter of the shadow it cast on the ground was one hundred and
+twenty feet.  The healthful vigor that I was enjoying about this
+time enabled me to regard my surroundings admiringly.  A feeling
+of comfort and perfect contentment took possession of me, such as
+I knew not while fretting at Unyanyembe, wearing my life away in
+inactivity.  I talked with my people as to my friends and equals.
+We argued with each other about our prospects in quite a
+companionable, sociable vein.
+
+When daylight was dying, and the sun was sinking down rapidly over
+the western horizon, vividly painting the sky with the colours of
+gold and silver, saffron, and opal, when its rays and gorgeous
+tints were reflected upon the tops of the everlasting forest, with
+the quiet and holy calm of heaven resting upon all around, and
+infusing even into the untutored minds of those about me the
+exquisite enjoyments of such a life as we were now leading in the
+depths of a great expanse of forest, the only and sole human
+occupants of it--this was the time, after our day's work was ended,
+and the camp was in a state of perfect security, when we all would
+produce our pipes, and could best enjoy the labors which we had
+performed, and the contentment which follows a work well done.
+
+Outside nothing is heard beyond the cry of a stray florican,
+or guinea-fowl, which has lost her mate, or the hoarse croaking
+of the frogs in the pool hard by, or the song of the crickets
+which seems to lull the day to rest; inside our camp are heard
+the gurgles of the gourd pipes as the men inhale the blue ether,
+which I also love.  I am contented and happy, stretched on my
+carpet under the dome of living foliage, smoking my short
+meerschaum, indulging in thoughts--despite the beauty of the still
+grey light of the sky; and of the air of serenity which prevails
+around--of home and friends in distant America, and these thoughts
+soon change to my work--yet incomplete--to the man who to me is
+yet a myth, who, for all I know, may be dead, or may be near or
+far from me tramping through just such a forest, whose tops I
+see bound the view outside my camp.  We are both on the same soil,
+perhaps in the same forest--who knows?--yet is he to me so far
+removed that he might as well be in his own little cottage of Ulva.
+Though I am even now ignorant of his very existence, yet I feel
+a certain complacency, a certain satisfaction which would be
+difficult to describe.  Why is man so feeble, and weak, that he
+must tramp, tramp hundreds of miles to satisfy the doubts his
+impatient and uncurbed mind feels?  Why cannot my form accompany
+the bold flights of my mind and satisfy the craving I feel to
+resolve the vexed question that ever rises to my lips--"Is he
+alive?"  O soul of mine, be patient, thou hast a felicitous
+tranquillity, which other men might envy thee!  Sufficient for
+the hour is the consciousness thou hast that thy mission is a
+holy one!  Onward, and be hopeful!
+
+Monday, the 2nd of October, found us traversing the forest and
+plain that extends from the Ziwani to Manyara, which occupied us
+six and a half hours.  The sun was intensely hot; but the mtundu
+and miombo trees grew at intervals, just enough to admit free
+growth to each tree, while the blended foliage formed a grateful
+shade.  The path was clear and easy, the tamped and firm red soil
+offered no obstructions.  The only provocation we suffered was
+from the attacks of the tsetse, or panga (sword) fly, which swarmed
+here.  We knew we were approaching an extensive habitat of game,
+and we were constantly on the alert for any specimens that might
+be inhabiting these forests.
+
+While we were striding onward, at the rate of nearly three miles
+an hour, the caravan I perceived sheered off from the road,
+resuming it about fifty yards ahead of something on the road,
+to which the attention of the men was directed.  On coming up,
+I found the object to be the dead body of a man, who had fallen
+a victim to that fearful scourge of Africa, the small-pox.
+He was one of Oseto's gang of marauders, or guerillas, in the
+service of Mkasiwa of Unyanyembe, who were hunting these forests
+for the guerillas of Mirambo.  They had been returning from
+Ukonongo from a raid they had instituted against the Sultan
+of Mbogo, and they had left their comrade to perish in the road.
+He had apparently been only one day dead.
+
+Apropos of this, it was a frequent thing with us to discover a
+skeleton or a skull on the roadside.  Almost every day we saw
+one, sometimes two, of these relics of dead, and forgotten
+humanity.
+
+Shortly after this we emerged from the forest, and entered a
+mbuga, or plain, in which we saw a couple of giraffes, whose long
+necks were seen towering above a bush they had been nibbling at.
+This sight was greeted with a shout; for we now knew we had
+entered the game country, and that near the Gombe creek, or river,
+where we intended to halt, we should see plenty of these animals.
+
+A walk of three hours over this hot plain brought us to the
+cultivated fields of Manyara.  Arriving before the village-gate,
+we were forbidden to enter, as the country was throughout in a
+state of war, and it behoved them to be very careful of admitting
+any party, lest the villagers might be compromised.  We were, however,
+directed to a khambi to the right of the village, near some pools
+of clear water, where we discovered some half dozen ruined huts,
+which looked very uncomfortable to tired people.
+
+After we had built our camp, the kirangozi was furnished with some
+cloths to purchase food from the village for the transit of a
+wilderness in front of us, which was said to extend nine marches,
+or 135 miles.  He was informed that the Mtemi had strictly
+prohibited his people from selling any grain whatever.
+
+This evidently was a case wherein the exercise of a little
+diplomacy could only be effective; because it would detain us
+several days here, if we were compelled to send men back to Kikuru
+for provisions.  Opening a bale of choice goods, I selected two
+royal cloths, and told Bombay to carry them to him, with the
+compliments and friendship of the white man.  The Sultan sulkily
+refused them, and bade him return to the white man and tell him
+not to bother him.  Entreaties were of no avail, he would not
+relent; and the men, in exceedingly bad temper, and hungry, were
+obliged to go to bed supperless.  The words of Njara, a slave-
+trader, and parasite of the great Sheikh bin Nasib, recurred to me.
+"Ah, master, master, you will find the people will be too much
+for you, and that you will have to return.  The Wa-manyara are
+bad, the Wakonongo are very bad, the Wazavira are the worst
+of all.  You have come to this country at a bad time.  It
+is war everywhere."  And, indeed, judging from the tenor of the
+conversations around our camp-fires, it seemed but too evident.
+There was every prospect of a general decamp of all my people.
+However, I told them not to be discouraged; that I would get
+food for them in the morning.
+
+The bale of choice cloths was opened again next morning, and
+four royal cloths were this time selected, and two dotis of Merikani,
+and Bombay was again despatched, burdened with compliments, and
+polite words.
+
+It was necessary to be very politic with a man who was so surly,
+and too powerful to make an enemy of.  What if he made up his mind
+to imitate the redoubtable Mirambo, King of Uyoweh!  The effect of
+my munificent liberality was soon seen in the abundance of provender
+which came to my camp.  Before an hour went by, there came boxes
+full of choroko, beans, rice, matama or dourra, and Indian corn,
+carried on the heads of a dozen villagers, and shortly after the
+Mtemi himself came, followed by about thirty musketeers and
+twenty spearmen, to visit the first white man ever seen on this
+road.  Behind these warriors came a liberal gift, fully equal in
+value to that sent to him, of several large gourds of honey, fowls,
+goats, and enough vetches and beans to supply my men with four
+days' food.
+
+I met the chief at the gate of my camp, and bowing profoundly,
+invited him to my tent, which I had arranged as well as my
+circumstances would permit, for this reception.  My Persian carpet
+and bear skin were spread out, and a broad piece of bran-new
+crimson cloth covered my kitanda, or bedstead.
+
+The chief, a tall robust man, and his chieftains, were invited to
+seat themselves.  They cast a look of such gratified surprise at
+myself, at my face, my clothes, and guns, as is almost impossible
+to describe.  They looked at me intently for a few seconds, and
+then at each other, which ended in an uncontrollable burst of
+laughter, and repeated snappings of the fingers.  They spoke the
+Kinyamwezi language, and my interpreter Maganga was requested to
+inform the chief of the great delight I felt in seeing them.
+After a short period expended in interchanging compliments,
+and a competitive excellence at laughing at one another, their
+chief desired me to show him my guns.  The "sixteen-shooter,"
+the Winchester rifle, elicited a thousand flattering observations
+from the excited man; and the tiny deadly revolvers, whose beauty
+and workmanship they thought were superhuman, evoked such
+gratified eloquence that I was fain to try something else.
+The double-barrelled guns fired with heavy charges of power,
+caused them to jump up in affected alarm, and then to subside into
+their seats convulsed with laughter.  As the enthusiasm of my
+guests increased, they seized each other's index fingers, screwed
+them, and pulled at them until I feared they would end in their
+dislocation.  After having explained to them the difference
+between white men and Arabs, I pulled out my medicine chest,
+which evoked another burst of rapturous sighs at the cunning
+neatness of the array of vials.  He asked what they meant.
+
+"Dowa," I replied sententiously, a word which may be
+interpreted--medicine.
+
+"Oh-h, oh-h," they murmured admiringly.  I succeeded, before long,
+in winning unqualified admiration, and my superiority, compared to
+the best of the Arabs they had seen, was but too evident.  "Dowa,
+dowa," they added.
+
+"Here," said I, uncorking a vial of medicinal brandy, "is the
+Kisungu pombe " (white man's beer); "take a spoonful and try
+it," at the same time handing it.
+
+"Hacht, hacht, oh, hacht,! what! eh! what strong beer the
+white men have!  Oh, how my throat burns!"
+
+"Ah, but it is good," said I, "a little of it makes men feel
+strong, and good; but too much of it makes men bad, and they die."
+
+"Let me have some," said one of the chiefs; "and me," " and me,"
+"and me," as soon as each had tasted.
+
+"I next produced a bottle of concentrated ammonia, which as I
+explained was for snake bites, and head-aches; the Sultan
+immediately complained he had a head-ache, and must have a little.
+Telling him to close his eyes, I suddenly uncorked the bottle, and
+presented it to His Majesty's nose.  The effect was magical, for he
+fell back as if shot, and such contortions as his features
+underwent are indescribable.  His chiefs roared with laughter,
+and clapped their hands, pinched each other, snapped their fingers,
+and committed many other ludicrous things.  I verily believe if such
+a scene were presented on any stage in the world the effect of it
+would be visible instantaneously on the audience; that had they
+seen it as I saw it, they would have laughed themselves to
+hysteria and madness.  Finally the Sultan recovered himself, great
+tears rolling down his cheeks, and his features quivering with
+laughter, then he slowly uttered the word "kali,"--hot, strong,
+quick, or ardent medicine.  He required no more, but the other
+chiefs pushed forward to get one wee sniff, which they no sooner
+had, than all went into paroxysms of uncontrollable laughter.
+The entire morning was passed in this state visit, to the mutual
+satisfaction of all concerned.  "Oh," said the Sultan at parting,
+"these white men know everything, the Arabs are dirt compared to them!"
+
+That night Hamdallah, one of the guides, deserted, carrying with
+him his hire (27 doti), and a gun.  It was useless to follow him
+in the morning, as it would have detained me many more days than
+I could afford; but I mentally vowed that Mr. Hamdallah should
+work out those 27 doti of cloths before I reached the coast.
+
+Wednesday, October 4th, saw us travelling to the Gombe River,
+which is 4 h. 15 m.  march from Manyara.
+
+We had barely left the waving cornfields of my friend Ma-manyara
+before we came in sight of a herd of noble zebra; two hours
+afterwards we had entered a grand and noble expanse of park
+land, whose glorious magnificence and vastness of prospect,
+with a far-stretching carpet of verdure darkly flecked here
+and there by miniature clumps of jungle, with spreading trees
+growing here and there, was certainly one of the finest scenes
+to be seen in Africa.  Added to which, as I surmounted one of
+the numerous small knolls, I saw herds after herds of buffalo
+and zebra, giraffe and antelope, which sent the blood coursing
+through my veins in the excitement of the moment, as when I first
+landed on African soil.  We crept along the plain noiselessly to
+our camp on the banks of the sluggish waters of the Gombe. '
+
+Here at last was the hunter's Paradise!  How petty and
+insignificant appeared my hunts after small antelope and wild boar
+what a foolish waste of energies those long walks through damp
+grasses and through thorny jungles!  Did I not well remember '
+my first bitter experience in African jungles when in the maritime
+region!   But this--where is the nobleman's park that can match
+this scene?  Here is a soft, velvety expanse of young grass,
+grateful shade under those spreading clumps; herds of large and
+varied game browsing within easy rifle range.  Surely I must
+feel amply compensated now for the long southern detour I have
+made, when such a prospect as this opens to the view!  No
+thorny jungles and rank smelling swamps are here to daunt the
+hunter, and to sicken his aspirations after true sport!  No
+hunter could aspire after a nobler field to display his prowess.
+
+Having settled the position of the camp, which overlooked one of
+the pools found in the depression of the Gombe creek, I took my
+double-barrelled smooth-bore, and sauntered off to the park-land.
+Emerging from behind a clump, three fine plump spring-bok were
+seen browsing on the young grass just within one hundred yards.
+I knelt down and fired; one unfortunate antelope bounded upward
+instinctively, and fell dead.  Its companions sprang high into
+the air, taking leaps about twelve feet in length, as if they
+were quadrupeds practising gymnastics, and away they vanished,
+rising up like India-rubber balls; until a knoll hid them from
+view.  My success was hailed with loud shouts by the soldiers;
+who came running out from the camp as soon as they heard the
+reverberation of the gun, and my gun-bearer had his knife at
+the beast's throat, uttering a fervent "Bismillah!" as he
+almost severed the head from the body.
+
+Hunters were now directed to proceed east and north to procure
+meat, because in each caravan it generally happens that there are
+fundi, whose special trade it is to hunt for meat for the camp.
+Some of these are experts in stalking, but often find themselves
+in dangerous positions, owing to the near approach necessary,
+before they can fire their most inaccurate weapons with any certainty.
+
+After luncheon, consisting of spring-bok steak, hot corn-cake, and
+a cup of delicious Mocha coffee, I strolled towards the south-west,
+accompanied by Kalulu and Majwara, two boy gun-bearers.  The tiny
+perpusilla started up like rabbits from me as I stole along through
+the underbrush; the honey-bird hopped from tree to tree chirping
+its call, as if it thought I was seeking the little sweet treasure,
+the hiding-place of which it only knew; but no! I neither desired
+perpusilla nor the honey.  I was on the search for something great
+this day.  Keen-eyed fish-eagles and bustards poised on trees above
+the sinuous Gombe thought, and probably with good reason that I was
+after them; judging by the ready flight with which both species
+disappeared as they sighted my approach.  Ah, no! nothing but
+hartebeest, zebra, giraffe, eland, and buffalo this day!  After
+following the Gombe's course for about a mile, delighting my eyes
+with long looks at the broad and lengthy reaches of water to which
+I was so long a stranger, I came upon a scene which delighted the
+innermost recesses of my soul; five, six, seven, eight, ten
+zebras switching their beautiful striped bodies, and biting one
+another, within about one hundred and fifty yards.  The scene was
+so pretty, so romantic, never did I so thoroughly realize that I
+was in Central Africa.  I felt momentarily proud that I owned such
+a vast domain, inhabited with such noble beasts.  Here I possessed,
+within reach of a leaden ball, any one I chose of the beautiful
+animals, the pride of the African forests!  It was at my option to
+shoot any of them!  Mine they were without money or without
+price; yet, knowing this, twice I dropped my rifle, loth to wound
+the royal beasts, but--crack!  and a royal one was on his back
+battling the air with his legs.  Ah, it was such a pity! but,
+hasten, draw the keen sharp-edged knife across the beautiful
+stripes which fold around the throat; and--what an ugly gash!
+it is done, and 1 have a superb animal at my feet.  Hurrah!
+I shall taste of Ukonongo zebra to-night.
+
+I thought a spring-bok and zebra enough for one day's sport,
+especially after a long march.  The Gombe, a long stretch of
+deep water, winding in and out of green groves, calm, placid,
+with lotus leaves lightly resting on its: surface, all pretty,
+picturesque, peaceful as a summer's dream, looked very inviting
+for a bath.  I sought out the most shady spot under a wide-
+spreading mimosa, from which the ground sloped smooth as a lawn,
+to the still, clear water.  I ventured to undress, and had already
+stepped in to my ancles in the water, and had brought my hands
+together for a glorious dive, when my attention was attracted by
+an enormously long body which shot into view, occupying the spot
+beneath the surface that I was about to explore by a "header."
+Great heavens, it was a crocodile!  I sprang backward instinctively,
+and this proved my salvation, for the monster turned away with the
+most disappointed look, and I was left to congratulate myself upon
+my narrow escape from his jaws, and to register a vow never to be
+tempted again by the treacherous calm of an African river.
+
+As soon as I had dressed I turned away from the now repulsive
+aspect of the stream.  In strolling through the jungle, towards
+my camp, I detected the forms of two natives looking sharply about
+them, and, after bidding my young attendants to preserve perfect
+quiet, I crept on towards them, and, by the aid of a thick clump
+of underbush, managed to arrive within a few feet of the natives
+undetected.  Their mere presence in the immense forest, unexplained,
+was a cause of uneasiness in the then disturbed state of the country,
+and my intention was to show myself suddenly to them, and note its
+effect, which, if it betokened anything hostile to the Expedition,
+could without difficulty be settled at once, with the aid of my
+double-barrelled smooth-bore.
+
+As I arrived on one side of this bush, the two suspicious-looking
+natives arrived on the other side, and we were separated by only
+a few feet.  I made a bound, and we were face to face.  The natives
+cast a glance at the sudden figure of a white man, and seemed
+petrified for a moment, but then, recovering themselves, they
+shrieked out, "Bana, bana, you don't know us.  We are Wakonongo,
+who came to your camp to accompany you to Mrera, and we are
+looking for honey."
+
+"Oh, to be sure, you are the Wakonongo.  Yes--Yes.  Ah, it is all
+right now, I thought you might be Ruga-Ruga."
+
+So the two parties, instead of being on hostile terms with each
+other, burst out laughing.  The Wakonongo enjoyed it very much,
+and laughed heartily as they proceeded on their way to search
+for the wild honey.  On a piece of bark they carried a little
+fire with which they smoked the bees out from their nest in the
+great mtundu-trees.
+
+The adventures of the day were over; the azure of the sky had
+changed to a dead grey; the moon was appearing just over the
+trees; the water of the Gombe was like a silver belt; hoarse
+frogs bellowed their notes loudly by the margin of the creek;
+the fish-eagles uttered their dirge-like cries as they were
+perched high on the tallest tree; elands snorted their warning
+to the herds in the forest; stealthy forms of the carnivora stole
+through the dark woods outside of our camp.  Within the high
+inclosure of bush and thorn, which we had raised around our camp,
+all was jollity, laughter, and radiant, genial comfort.  Around
+every camp-fire dark forms of men were seen squatted: one man
+gnawed at a luscious bone; another sucked the rich marrow in a
+zebra's leg-bone; another turned the stick, garnished with huge
+kabobs, to the bright blaze; another held a large rib over a
+flame; there were others busy stirring industriously great black
+potfuls of ugali, and watching anxiously the meat simmering, and
+the soup bubbling, while the fire-light flickered and danced
+bravely, and cast a bright glow over the naked forms of the men,
+and gave a crimson tinge to the tall tent that rose in the centre
+of the camp, like a temple sacred to some mysterious god; the
+fires cast their reflections upon the massive arms of the trees,
+as they branched over our camp, and, in the dark gloom of their
+foliage, the most fantastic shadows were visible.  Altogether
+it was a wild, romantic, and impressive scene.  But little recked
+my men for shadows and moonlight, for crimson tints, and temple-
+like tents--they were all busy relating their various experiences,
+and gorging themselves with the rich meats our guns had obtained
+for us.  One was telling how he had stalked a wild boar, and the
+furious onset the wounded animal made on him, causing him to drop
+his gun, and climb a tree, and the terrible grunt of the beast he
+well remembered, and the whole welkin rang with the peals of
+laughter which his mimic powers evoked.  Another had shot a
+buffalo-calf, and another had bagged a hartebeest; the Wakonongo
+related their laughable rencontre with me in the woods, and were
+lavish in their description of the stores of honey to be found
+in the woods; and all this time Selim and his youthful subs were
+trying their sharp teeth on the meat of a young pig which one
+of the hunters had shot, but which nobody else would eat, because
+of the Mohammedan aversion to pig, which they had acquired during
+their transformation from negro savagery to the useful docility
+of the Zanzibar freed-man.
+
+We halted the two following days, and made frequent raids on the
+herds of this fine country.  The first day I was fairly successful
+again in the sport.  I bagged a couple of antelopes, a kudu
+(A. strepsiceros) with fine twisting horns, and a pallah-buck
+(A. melampus), a reddish-brown animal, standing about three and
+a half feet, with broad posteriors.  I might have succeeded in
+getting dozens of animals had I any of those accurate, heavy
+rifles manufactured by Lancaster, Reilly, or Blissett, whose every
+shot tells.  But my weapons, save my light smoothbore, were unfit
+for African game.  My weapons were more for men.  With the Winchester
+rifle, and the Starr's carbine, I was able to hit anything within
+two hundred yards, but the animals, though wounded, invariably
+managed to escape the knife, until I was disgusted with the pea-
+bullets.  What is wanted for this country is a heavy bore--No. 10
+or 12 is the real bone-crusher--that will drop every animal shot
+in its tracks, by which all fatigue and disappointment are avoided.
+Several times during these two days was I disappointed after most
+laborious stalking and creeping along the ground.  Once I came
+suddenly upon an eland while I had a Winchester rifle in my hand--
+the eland and myself mutually astonished--at not more than
+twenty-five yards apart.  I fired at its chest, and bullet, true
+to its aim, sped far into the internal parts, and the blood spouted
+from the wound: in a few minutes he was far away, and I was too
+much disappointed to follow him.  All love of the chase seemed to be
+dying away before these several mishaps.  What were two antelopes
+for one day's sport to the thousands that browsed over the plain?
+
+The animals taken to camp during our three days' sport were two
+buffaloes, two wild boar, three hartebeest, one zebra, and one
+pallah; besides which, were shot eight guinea-fowls, three
+florican, two fish-eagles, one pelican, and one of the men caught
+a couple of large silurus fish.  In the meantime the people had
+cut, sliced, and dried this bounteous store of meat for our transit
+through the long wilderness before us.
+
+Saturday the 7th day of October, we broke up camp, to the great
+regret of the meat-loving, gormandizing Wangwana.  They delegated
+Bombay early in the morning to speak to me, and entreat of me to
+stop one day longer.  It was ever the case; they had always an
+unconquerable aversion to work, when in presence of meat.  Bombay
+was well scolded for bearing any such request to me after two
+days' rest, during which time they had been filled to repletion
+with meat.  And Bombay was by no means in the best of humour;
+flesh-pots full of meat were more to his taste than a constant
+tramping, and its consequent fatigues.  I saw his face settle into
+sulky ugliness, and his great nether lip hanging down limp, which
+meant as if expressed in so many words, "Well, get them to move
+yourself, you wicked hard man!  I shall not help you."
+
+An ominous silence followed my order to the kirangozi to sound the
+horn, and the usual singing and chanting were not heard.  The men
+turned sullenly to their bales, and Asmani, the gigantic guide,
+our fundi, was heard grumblingly to say he was sorry he had
+engaged to guide me to the Tanganika.  However, they started,
+though reluctantly.  I stayed behind with my gunbearers, to drive
+the stragglers on.  In about half an hour I sighted the caravan at
+a dead stop, with the bales thrown on the ground, and the men
+standing in groups conversing angrily and excitedly.
+
+Taking my double-barrelled gun from Selim's shoulder, I selected a
+dozen charges of buck-shot, and slipping two of them into the
+barrels, and adjusting my revolvers in order for handy work, I
+walked on towards them.  I noticed that the men seized their guns,
+as I advanced.  When within thirty yards of the groups, I
+discovered the heads of two men appear above an anthill on my left,
+with the barrels of their guns carelessly pointed toward the road.
+
+I halted, threw the barrel of my gun into the hollow of the left
+hand, and then, taking a deliberate aim at them, threatened to blow
+their heads off if they did not come forward to talk to me.  These
+two men were, gigantic Asmani and his sworn companion Mabruki, the
+guides of Sheikh bin Nasib.  As it was dangerous not to comply
+with such an order, they presently came, but, keeping my eye on
+Asmani, I saw him move his fingers to the trigger of his gun, and
+bring his gun to a "ready."  Again I lifted my gun, and threatened
+him with instant death, if he did not drop his gun.
+
+Asmani came on in a sidelong way with a smirking smile on his
+face, but in his eyes shone the lurid light of murder, as plainly
+as ever it shone in a villain's eyes.  Mabruki sneaked to my rear,
+deliberately putting powder in the pan of his musket, but sweeping
+the gun sharply round, I planted the muzzle of it at about two
+feet from his wicked-looking face, and ordered him to drop his gun
+instantly.  He let it fall from his hand quickly, and giving him a
+vigorous poke in the breast with my gun, which sent him reeling
+away a few feet from me, I faced round to Asmani, and ordered him
+to put his gun down, accompanying it with a nervous movement of my
+gun, pressing gently on the trigger at the same time.  Never was a
+man nearer his death than was Asmani during those few moments.  I
+was reluctant to shed his blood, and I was willing to try all
+possible means to avoid doing so; but if I did not succeed in
+cowing this ruffian, authority was at an end.  The truth was, they
+feared to proceed further on the road, and the only possible way
+of inducing them to move was by an overpowering force, and exercise
+of my power and will in this instance, even though he might pay the
+penalty of his disobedience with death.  As I was beginning to feel
+that Asmani had passed his last moment on earth, as he was lifting
+his gun to his shoulder, a form came up from behind him, and swept
+his gun aside with an impatient, nervous movement, and I heard
+Mabruki Burton say in horror-struck accents:
+
+"Man, how dare you point your gun, at the master?"  Mabruki then
+threw himself at my feet, and endeavoured to kiss them and
+entreated me not to punish him.  "It was all over now," he said;
+"there would be no more quarreling, they would all go as far as
+the Tanganika, without any more noise; and Inshallah!" said he,
+"we shall find the old Musungu * at Ujiji."
+
+*Livingstone
+
+"Speak, men, freedmen, shall we not?--shall we not go to the
+Tanganika without any more trouble? tell the master with one
+voice."
+
+"Ay Wallah!  Ay Wallah!  Bana yango!  Hamuna manneno mgini!"
+which literally translated means, "Yes by God!  Yes by God!
+my master!  There are no other words," said each man loudly.
+
+"Ask the master's pardon, man, or go thy way," said Mabruki
+peremptorily, to Asmani: which Asmani did, to the gratification
+of us all.
+
+It remained for me only to extend a general pardon to all except
+to Bombay and Ambari, the instigators of the mutiny, which was now
+happily quelled.  For Bombay could have by a word, as my captain,
+nipped all manifestation of bad temper at the outset, had he been
+so disposed.  But no, Bombay was more averse to marching
+than the cowardliest of his fellows, not because he was cowardly,
+but because he loved indolence.
+
+Again the word was given to march, and each man, with astonishing
+alacrity, seized his load, and filed off quickly out of sight.
+
+While on this subject, I may as well give here a sketch of each of
+the principal men whose names must often appear in the following
+chapters.  According to rank, they consist of Bombay, Mabruki
+Burton, Asmani the guide, Chowpereh, Ulimengo, Khamisi, Ambari,
+Jumah, Ferajji the cook, Maganga the Mnyamwezi, Selim the Arab boy,
+and youthful Kalulu a gunbearer.
+
+Bombay has received an excellent character from Burton and Speke.
+"Incarnation of honesty" Burton grandly terms him.  The truth is,
+Bombay was neither very honest nor very dishonest, i.e., he did
+not venture to steal much.  He sometimes contrived cunningly, as
+he distributed the meat, to hide a very large share for his own use.
+This peccadillo of his did not disturb me much; he deserved as
+captain a larger share than the others.  He required to be closely
+watched, and when aware that this was the case, he seldom ventured
+to appropriate more cloth than I would have freely given him,
+had he asked for it.  As a personal servant, or valet, he would
+have been unexceptionable, but as a captain or jemadar over his
+fellows, he was out of his proper sphere.  It was too much
+brain-work, and was too productive of anxiety to keep him in
+order.  At times he was helplessly imbecile in his movements,
+forgot every order the moment it was given him, consistently
+broke or lost some valuable article, was fond of argument, and
+addicted to bluster.  He thinks Hajji Abdullah one of the wickedest
+white men born, because he saw him pick up men's skulls and put
+them in sacks, as if he was about to prepare a horrible medicine
+with them.  He wanted to know whether his former master had written
+down all he himself did, and when told that Burton had not said
+anything, in his books upon the Lake Regions, upon collecting
+skulls at Kilwa, thought I would be doing a good work if I
+published this important fact.* Bombay intends to make a
+pilgrimage to visit Speke's grave some day.
+________________________
+*I find upon returning to England, that Capt. Burton has informed
+the world of this "wicked and abominable deed," in his book upon
+Zanzibar, and that the interesting collection may be seen at the
+Royal College of Surgeons, London.
+_________________________
+
+Mabruki, "Ras-bukra Mabruki," Bull-headed Mabruki, as Burton calls
+him, is a sadly abused man in my opinion.  Mabruki, though stupid,
+is faithful.  He is entirely out of his element as valet, he might
+as well be clerk.  As a watchman he is invaluable, as a second
+captain or fundi, whose duty it is to bring up stragglers,
+he is superexcellent.  He is ugly and vain, but he is no coward.
+
+Asmani the guide is a large fellow, standing over six feet, with
+the neck and shoulders of a Hercules.  Besides being guide, he is
+a fundi, sometimes called Fundi Asmani, or hunter.  A very
+superstitious man, who takes great care of his gun, and talismanic
+plaited cord, which he has dipped in the blood of all the animals
+he has ever shot.  He is afraid of lions, and will never venture
+out where lions are known to be.  All other animals he regards as
+game, and is indefatigable in their pursuit.  He is seldom seen
+without an apologetic or a treacherous smile on his face.  He could
+draw a knife across a man's throat and still smile.
+
+Chowpereh is a sturdy short man of thirty or thereabouts; very
+good-natured, and humorous.  When Chowpereh speaks in his dry Mark
+Twain style, the whole camp laughs.  I never quarrel with Chowpereh,
+never did quarrel with him.  A kind word given to Chowpereh is sure
+to be reciprocated with a good deed.  He is the strongest, the
+healthiest, the amiablest, the faithfulest of all.  He is the
+embodiment of a good follower.
+
+Khamisi is a neat, cleanly boy of twenty, or thereabouts, active,
+loud-voiced, a boaster, and the cowardliest of the cowardly.  He
+will steal at every opportunity.  He clings to his gun most
+affectionately; is always excessively anxious if a screw gets
+loose, or if a flint will not strike fire, yet I doubt that he
+would be able to fire his gun at an enemy from excessive
+trembling.  Khamisi would rather trust his safety to his feet,
+which are small, and well shaped.
+
+Ambari is a man of about forty.  He is one of the "Faithfuls"
+of Speke, and one of my Faithfuls.  He would not run away from
+me except when in the presence of an enemy, and imminent personal
+danger.  He is clever in his way, but is not sufficiently clever
+to enact the part of captain--could take charge of a small party,
+and give a very good account of them.  Is lazy, and an admirer of
+good living--abhors marching, unless he has nothing to carry but
+his gun.
+
+Jumah is the best abused man of the party, because he has
+old-womanish ways with him, yet in his old-womanish ways he is
+disposed to do the best he can for me, though he will not carry a
+pound in weight without groaning terribly at his hard fate.  To me
+he is sentimental and pathetic; to the unimportant members of the
+caravan he is stern and uncompromising.  But the truth is, that I
+could well dispense with Jumah's presence: he was one of the
+incorrigible inutiles, eating far more than he was worth; besides
+being an excessively grumbling and querulous fool.
+
+Ulimengo, a strong stalwart fellow of thirty, was the maddest and
+most hare-brained of my party.  Though an arrant coward, he was a
+consummate boaster.  But though a devotee of pleasure and fun, he
+was not averse from work.  With one hundred men such as he, I could
+travel through Africa provided there was no fighting to do.  It
+will be remembered that he was the martial coryphaeus who led my
+little army to war against Mirambo, chanting the battle-song of
+the Wangwana; and that I stated, that when the retreat was determined
+upon, he was the first of my party to reach the stronghold of Mfuto.
+He is a swift runner, and a fair hunter.  I have been indebted to
+him on several occasions for a welcome addition to my larder.
+
+Ferajji, a former dish-washer to Speke, was my cook.  He was
+promoted to this office upon the defection of Bunder Salaam, and
+the extreme non-fitness of Abdul Kader.  For cleaning dishes, the
+first corn-cob, green twig, a bunch of leaves or grass, answered
+Ferajji's purposes in the absence of a cloth.  If I ordered a
+plate, and I pointed out a black, greasy, sooty thumbmark to him,
+a rub of a finger Ferajji thought sufficient to remove all
+objections.  If I hinted that a spoon was rather dirty, Ferajji
+fancied that with a little saliva, and a rub of his loin cloth, the
+most fastidious ought to be satisfied.  Every pound of meat, and
+every three spoonfuls of musk or porridge I ate in Africa,
+contained at least ten grains of sand.  Ferajji was considerably
+exercised at a threat I made to him that on arrival at Zanzibar,
+I would get the great English doctor there to open my stomach,
+and count every grain of sand found in it, for each grain of which
+Ferajji should be charged one dollar.  The consciousness that my
+stomach must contain a large number, for which the forfeits would
+be heavy, made him feel very sad at times.  Otherwise, Ferajji was
+a good cook, most industrious, if not accomplished.  He could
+produce a cup of tea, and three or four hot pancakes, within ten
+minutes after a halt was ordered, for which I was most grateful,
+as I was almost always hungry after a long march.  Ferajji sided
+with Baraka against Bombay in Unyoro, and when Speke took Bombay's
+side of the question, Ferajji, out of love for Baraka, left Speke's
+service, and so forfeited his pay.
+
+Maganga was a Mnyamwezi, a native of Mkwenkwe, a strong, faithful
+servant, an excellent pagazi, with an irreproachable temper.  He
+it was who at all times, on the march, started the wildly exuberant
+song of the Wanyamwezi porters, which, no matter how hot the sun,
+or how long the march, was sure to produce gaiety and animation
+among the people.  At such times all hands sang, sang with voices
+that could be heard miles away, which made the great forests ring
+with the sounds, which startled every animal big or little, for
+miles around.  On approaching a village the temper of whose people
+might be hostile to us, Maganga would commence his song, with the
+entire party joining in the chorus, by which mode we knew whether
+the natives were disposed to be friendly or hostile.  If hostile,
+or timid, the gates would at once be closed, and dark faces would
+scowl at us from the interior; if friendly, they rushed outside of
+their gates to welcome us, or to exchange friendly remarks.
+
+An important member of the Expedition was Selim, the young Arab.
+Without some one who spoke good Arabic, I could not have obtained
+the friendship of the chief Arabs in Unyanyembe; neither could I
+have well communicated with them, for though I understood Arabic,
+I could not speak it.
+
+I have already related how Kalulu came to be in my service, and
+how he came to bear his present name.  I soon found how apt and
+quick he was to learn, in consequence of which, he was promoted
+to the rank of personal attendant.  Even Selim could not vie with
+Kalulu in promptness and celerity, or in guessing my wants at the
+table.  His little black eyes were constantly roving over the
+dishes, studying out the problem of what was further necessary,
+or had become unnecessary.
+
+We arrived at the Ziwani, in about 4 h. 30 m. from the time of
+our quitting the scene which had well-nigh witnessed a sanguinary
+conflict.  The Ziwani, or pool, contained no water, not a drop,
+until the parched tongues of my people warned them that they must
+proceed and excavate for water.  This excavation was performed (by
+means of strong hard sticks sharply pointed) in the dry hard-caked
+bottom.  After digging to a depth of six feet their labours were
+rewarded with the sight of a few drops of muddy liquid percolating
+through the sides, which were eagerly swallowed to relieve their
+raging thirst.  Some voluntarily started with buckets, gourds,
+and canteens south to a deserted clearing called the "Tongoni"
+in Ukamba, and in about three hours returned with a plentiful
+supply for immediate use, of good and clear water.
+
+In 1 h. 30 m. we arrived at this Tongoni, or deserted clearing of
+the Wakamba.  Here were three or four villages burnt, and an
+extensive clearing desolate, the work of the Wa-Ruga-Raga of Mirambo.
+Those of the inhabitants who were left, after the spoliation and
+complete destruction of the flourishing settlement, emigrated
+westerly to Ugara.  A large herd of buffalo now slake their thirst
+at the pool which supplied the villages of Ukamba with water.
+
+Great masses of iron haematite cropped up above the surfaces in
+these forests.  Wild fruit began to be abundant; the wood-apple
+and tamarind and a small plum-like fruit, furnished us with many
+an agreeable repast.
+
+The honey-bird is very frequent in these forests of Ukonongo.
+Its cry is a loud, quick chirrup.  The Wakonongo understand how
+to avail themselves of its guidance to the sweet treasure of honey
+which the wild bees have stored in the cleft of some great tree.
+Daily, the Wakonongo who had joined our caravan brought me immense
+cakes of honey-comb, containing delicious white and red honey.
+The red honey-comb generally contains large numbers of dead bees,
+but our exceedingly gluttonous people thought little of these.
+They not only ate the honey-bees, but they also ate a good deal of
+the wax.
+
+As soon as the honey-bird descries the traveller, he immediately
+utters a series of wild, excited cries, hops about from twig to
+twig, and from branch to branch, then hops to another tree,
+incessantly repeating his chirruping call.  The native, understanding
+the nature of the little bird, unhesitatingly follows him; but
+perhaps his steps are too slow for the impatient caller, upon which
+he flies back, urging him louder, more impatient cries, to hasten,
+and then darts swiftly forward, as if he would show how quickly he
+could go to the honey-store, until at last the treasure is reached,
+the native has applied fire to the bees' nest, and secured the honey,
+while the little bird preens himself, and chirrups in triumphant
+notes, as if he were informing the biped that without his aid he
+never could have found the honey.
+
+Buffalo gnats and tsetse were very troublesome on this march,
+owing to the numerous herds of game in the vicinity.
+
+On the 9th of October we made a long march in a southerly direction,
+and formed our camp in the centre of a splendid grove of trees.
+The water was very scarce on the road.  The Wamrima and Wanyamwezi
+are not long able to withstand thirst.  When water is plentiful
+they slake their thirst at every stream and pool; when it is scarce,
+as it is here and in the deserts of Marenga and Magunda Mkali,
+long afternoon-marches are made; the men previously, however, filling
+their gourds, so as to enable them to reach the water early next
+morning.  Selim was never able to endure thirst.  It mattered not
+how much of the precious liquid he carried, he generally drank it
+all before reaching camp, and he consequently suffered during the
+night.  Besides this, he endangered his life by quaffing from every
+muddy pool; and on this day he began to complain that he discharged
+blood, which I took to be an incipient stage of dysentery.
+
+During these marches, ever since quitting Ugunda, a favourite topic
+at the camp-fires were the Wa-Ruga-Ruga, and their atrocities, and
+a possible encounter that we might have with these bold rovers of
+the forest.  I verily believe that a sudden onset of half a dozen
+of Mirambo's people would have set the whole caravan arunning.
+
+We reached Marefu the next day, after a short three hours' march.
+We there found an embassy sent by the Arabs of Unyanyembe, to the
+Southern Watuta, bearing presents of several bales, in charge of
+Hassan the Mseguhha.  This valiant leader and diplomatist had halted
+here some ten days because of wars and rumours of wars in his front.
+It was said that Mbogo, Sultan of Mboga in Ukonongo, was at war
+with the brother of Manwa Sera, and as Mbogo was a large district
+of Ukonongo only two days' march from Marefu; fear of being involved
+in it was deterring old Hassan from proceeding.  He advised me also
+not to proceed, as it was impossible to be able to do so without
+being embroiled in the conflict.  I informed him that I intended
+to proceed on my way, and take my chances, and graciously offered
+him my escort as far as the frontier of Ufipa, from which he could
+easily and safely continue on his way to the Watuta, but he
+declined it.
+
+We had now been travelling fourteen days in a south-westerly
+direction, having made a little more than one degree of latitude.
+I had intended to have gone a little further south, because it was
+such a good road, also since by going further south we should have
+labored under no fear of meeting Mirambo; but the report of this
+war in our front, only two days off, compelled me, in the interest
+of the Expedition, to strike across towards the Tanganika, an a
+west-by-north course through the forest, travelling, when it was
+advantageous, along elephant tracks and local paths.  This new plan
+was adopted after consulting with Asmani, the guide.  We were now
+in Ukonongo, having entered this district when we crossed the Gombe
+creek.  The next day after arriving at Marefu we plunged westward,
+in view of the villagers, and the Arab ambassador, who kept
+repeating until the last moment that we should "certainly catch
+it."
+
+We marched eight hours through a forest, where the forest peach,
+or the "mbembu," is abundant.  The tree that bears this fruit is
+very like a pear-tree, and is very productive.  I saw one tree,
+upon which I estimated there were at least six or seven bushels.
+I ate numbers of the peaches on this day.  So long as this fruit
+can be produced, a traveller in these regions need not fear starvation.
+
+At the base of a graceful hilly cone we found a village called
+Utende, the inhabitants of which were in a state of great alarm,
+as we suddenly appeared on the ridge above them.  Diplomacy urged
+me to send forward a present of one doti to the Sultan, who, however,
+would not accept it, because he happened to be drunk with pombe,
+and was therefore disposed to be insolent.  Upon being informed
+that he would refuse any present, unless he received four more
+cloths, I immediately ordered a strong boma to be constructed on
+the summits of a little hill, near enough to a plentiful supply of
+water, and quietly again packed up the present in the bale.  I
+occupied a strategically chosen position, as I could have swept
+the face of the hill, and the entire space between its base and the
+village of Watende.  Watchmen were kept on the look-out all night;
+but we were fortunately not troubled until the morning; when a
+delegation of the principal men came to ask if I intended to depart
+without having made a present to the chief.  I replied to them that
+I did not intend passing through any country without making
+friends with the chief; and if their chief would accept a good
+cloth from me, I would freely give it to him.  Though they
+demurred at the amount of the present at first, the difference
+between us was finally ended by my adding a fundo of red beads--
+sami-sami--for the chief's wife.
+
+From the hill and ridge of Utende sloped a forest for miles and
+miles westerly, which was terminated by a grand and smooth-topped
+ridge rising 500 or 600 feet above the plain.
+
+A four hours' march, on the 12th of October, brought us to a
+nullah similar to the Gombe, which, during the wet season, flows
+to the Gombe River, and thence into the Malagarazi River.
+
+A little before camping we saw a herd of nimba, or pallah; I had
+the good fortune to shoot one, which was a welcome addition to our
+fast diminishing store of dried meats, prepared in our camp on the
+Gombe.  By the quantity of bois de vaches, we judged buffaloes
+were plentiful here, as well as elephant and rhinoceros.  The
+feathered species were well represented by ibis, fish-eagles,
+pelicans, storks, cranes, several snowy spoon-bills, and
+flamingoes.
+
+From the nullah, or mtoni, we proceeded to Mwaru, the principal
+village of the district of Mwaru, the chief of which is Ka-mirambo.
+Our march lay over desolated clearings once occupied by Ka-mirambo's
+people, but who were driven away by Mkasiwa some ten years ago,
+during his warfare against Manwa Sera.  Niongo, the brother of the
+latter, now waging war against Mbogo, had passed through Mwaru the
+day before we arrived, after being defeated by his enemy.
+
+The hilly ridge that bounded the westward horizon, visible from
+Utende, was surmounted on this day.  The western slope trends
+south-west, and is drained by the River Mrera, which empties into
+the Malagarazi River.  We perceived the influence of the Tanganika,
+even here, though we were yet twelve or fifteen marches from the
+lake.  The jungles increased in density, and the grasses became
+enormously tall; these points reminded us of the maritime districts
+of Ukwere and Ukami.
+
+We heard from a caravan at this place, just come from Ufipa, that a
+white man was reported to be in "Urua," whom I supposed to mean
+Livingstone.
+
+Upon leaving Mwaru we entered the district of Mrera, a chief who
+once possessed great power and influence over this region.  Wars,
+however, have limited his possessions to three or four villages
+snugly embosomed within a jungle, whose outer rim is so dense that
+it serves like a stone wall to repel invaders.  There were nine
+bleached skulls, stuck on the top of as many poles, before the
+principal gate of entrance, which told us of existing feuds between
+the Wakonongo and the Wazavira.  This latter tribe dwelt in a
+country a few marches west of us; whose territory we should have
+to avoid, unless we sought another opportunity to distinguish
+ourselves in battle with the natives.  The Wazavira, we were told
+by the Wakonongo of Mrera, were enemies to all Wangwana.
+
+In a narrow strip of marsh between Mwaru and Mrera, we saw a small
+herd of wild elephants.  It was the first time I had ever seen
+these animals in their native wildness, and my first impressions
+of them I shall not readily forget.  I am induced to think that
+the elephant deserves the title of "king of beasts."  His huge form,
+the lordly way in which he stares at an intruder on his domain,
+and his whole appearance indicative of conscious might, afford
+good grounds for his claim to that title.  This herd, as we passed
+it at the distance of a mile, stopped to survey the caravan as it
+passed: and, after having satisfied their curiosity, the elephants
+trooped into the forest which bounded the marshy plain southward,
+as if caravans were every-day things to them, whilst they--the free
+and unconquerable lords of the forest and the marsh--had nothing
+in common with the cowardly bipeds, who never found courage to face
+them in fair combat.  The destruction which a herd makes in a forest
+is simply tremendous.  When the trees are young whole swathes may
+be found uprooted and prostrate, which mark the track of the
+elephants as they "trampled their path through wood and brake."
+
+The boy Selim was so ill at this place that I was compelled to
+halt the caravan for him for two days.  He seemed to be affected
+with a disease in the limbs, which caused him to sprawl, and
+tremble most painfully, besides suffering from an attack of acute
+dysentery.  But constant attendance and care soon brought him round
+again; and on the third day he was able to endure the fatigue of
+riding.
+
+I was able to shoot several animals during our stay at Mrera.  The
+forest outside of the cultivation teems with noble animals.  Zebra,
+giraffe, elephant, and rhinoceros are most common; ptarmigan and
+guinea-fowl were also plentiful.
+
+The warriors of Mrera are almost all armed with muskets, of which
+they take great care.  They were very importunate in their demands
+for flints, bullets, and powder, which I always made it a point to
+refuse, lest at any moment a fracas occurring they might use the
+ammunition thus supplied to my own disadvantage.  The men of this
+village were an idle set, doing little but hunting, gaping,
+gossiping, and playing like great boys.  During the interval of
+my stay at Mrera I employed a large portion of my time in mending
+my shoes, and patching up the great rents in my clothes, which
+the thorn species, during the late marches, had almost destroyed.
+Westward, beyond Mrera, was a wilderness, the transit of which we
+were warned would occupy nine days hence arose the necessity to
+purchase a large supply of grain, which, ere attempting the great
+uninhabited void in our front, was to be ground and sifted.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.  THROUGH UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI.
+
+Happy auspices,--Ant-hills.--The water-shed of the Tanganika Lion.
+--The king of Kasera.--The home of the lion and the leopard.--
+A donkey frightens a leopard--Sublime scenes in Kawendi,--Starvation
+imminent.--Amenities of travel in Africa.--Black-mailers.--The
+stormy children of Uhha.--News of a white man.--Energetic
+marches--Mionvu, chief of tribute-takers.--An escape at
+midnight.--Toiling through the jungles.--The Lake Mountains.--
+First view of the Tanganika.--Arrival at Ujiji,--The happy meeting
+with Livingstone.
+
+
+We bade farewell to Mrera on the 17th of October, to continue our
+route north-westward.  All the men and I were firm friends now;
+all squabbling had long ceased.  Bombay and I had forgotten our
+quarrel; the kirangozi and myself were ready to embrace, so loving
+and affectionate were the terms upon which we stood towards one
+another.  Confidence returned to all hearts--for now, as Mabruk
+Unyanyembe said, "we could smell the fish of the Tanganika."
+Unyanyembe, with all its disquietude, was far behind.  We could
+snap our fingers at that terrible Mirambo and his unscrupulous
+followers, and by-and-by, perhaps, we may be able to laugh at
+the timid seer who always prophesied portentous events--Sheikh,
+the son of Nasib.  We laughed joyously, as we glided in Indian
+file through the young forest jungle beyond the clearing of Mrera,
+and boasted of our prowess.  Oh! we were truly brave that morning!
+
+Emerging from the jungle, we entered a thin forest, where numerous
+ant-hills were seen like so many sand-dunes.  I imagine that these
+ant-hills were formed during a remarkably wet season, when,
+possibly, the forest-clad plain was inundated.  I have seen the
+ants at work by thousands, engaged in the work of erecting their
+hills in other districts suffering from inundation.  What a
+wonderful system of cells these tiny insects construct!  A perfect
+labyrinth--cell within cell, room within room, hall within hall--an
+exhibition of engineering talents and high architectural capacity--a
+model city, cunningly contrived for safety and comfort!
+
+Emerging after a short hour's march out of the forest, we welcome
+the sight of a murmuring translucent stream, swiftly flowing
+towards the north-west, which we regard with the pleasure which
+only men who have for a long time sickened themselves with that
+potable liquid of the foulest kind, found in salinas, mbugas,
+pools, and puddle holes, can realize.  Beyond this stream rises a
+rugged and steep ridge, from the summit of which our eyes are
+gladdened with scenes that are romantic, animated and picturesque.
+They form an unusual feast to eyes sated with looking into the
+depths of forests, at towering stems of trees, and at tufted crowns
+of foliage.  We have now before us scores of cones, dotting the
+surface of a plain which extends across Southern Ukonongo to the
+territory of the Wafipa, and which reaches as far as the Rikwa Plain.
+The immense prospect before which we are suddenly ushered is most
+varied; exclusive of conical hills and ambitious flat-topped and
+isolated mountains, we are in view of the watersheds of the Rungwa
+River, which empties into the Tanganika south of where we stand,
+and of the Malagarazi River, which the Tanganika receives, a
+degree or so north of this position.  A single but lengthy
+latitudinal ridge serves as a dividing line to the watershed of the
+Rungwa and Malagarazi; and a score of miles or so further west of
+this ridge rises another, which runs north and south.
+
+We camped on this day in the jungle, close to a narrow ravine with
+a marshy bottom, through the oozy, miry contents of which the
+waters from the watershed of the Rungwa slowly trickled southward
+towards the Rikwa Plain.  This was only one of many ravines,
+however, some of which were several hundred yards broad, others
+were but a few yards in width, the bottoms of which were most
+dangerous quagmires, overgrown with dense tall reeds and papyrus.
+Over the surface of these great depths of mud were seen hundreds
+of thin threads of slimy ochre-coloured water, which swarmed with
+animalculae.  By-and-by, a few miles south of the base of this
+ridge (which I call Kasera, from the country which it cuts in
+halves), these several ravines converge and debouch into the broad,
+[marshy?], oozy, spongy  "river" of Usense, which trends in a
+south-easterly direction; after which, gathering the contents of
+the watercourses from the north and northeast into its own broader
+channel, it soon becomes a stream of some breadth and consequence,
+and meets a river flowing from the east, from the direction of
+Urori, with which it conflows in the Rikwa Plain, and empties about
+sixty rectilineal miles further west into the Tanganika Lake.  The
+Rungwa River, I am informed, is considered as a boundary line
+between the country of Usowa on the north, and Ufipa on the south.
+
+We had barely completed the construction of our camp defences when
+some of the men were heard challenging a small party of natives
+which advanced towards our camp, headed by a man who, from his
+garb and head-dress, we knew was from Zanzibar.  After interchanging
+the customary salutations, I was informed that this party was an
+embassy from Simba ("Lion"), who ruled over Kasera, in Southern
+Unyamwezi.  Simba, I was told, was the son of Mkasiwa, King of
+Unyanyembe, and was carrying on war with the Wazavira, of whom I was
+warned to beware.  He had heard such reports of my greatness that he
+was sorry I did not take his road to Ukawendi, that he might have
+had the opportunity of seeing me, and making friends with me; but
+in the absence of a personal visit Simba had sent this embassy to
+overtake me, in the hope that I would present him with a token of
+my friendship in the shape of cloth.  Though I was rather taken
+aback by the demand, still it was politic in me to make this powerful
+chief my friend, lest on my return from the search after Livingstone
+he and I might fall out.  And since it was incumbent on me to make
+a present, for the sake of peace, it was necessary to exhibit my
+desire for peace by giving--if I gave at all--a royal present.
+The ambassador conveyed from me to Simba, or the "Lion" of Kasera,
+two gorgeous cloths, and two other doti consisting of Merikani
+and Kaniki; and, if I might believe the ambassador, I had made
+Simba a friend for ever.
+
+On the 18th of October, breaking camp at the usual hour, we
+continued our march north-westward by a road which zig-zagged
+along the base of the Kasera mountains, and which took us into
+all kinds of difficulties.  We traversed at least a dozen marshy
+ravines, the depth of mire and water in which caused the utmost
+anxiety.  I sunk up to my neck in deep holes in the Stygian ooze
+caused by elephants, and had to tramp through the oozy beds of
+the Rungwa sources with any clothes wet and black with mud and slime.
+Decency forbade that I should strip; and the hot sun would also
+blister my body.  Moreover, these morasses were too frequent to lose
+time in undressing and dressing, and, as each man was weighted with
+his own proper load, it would have been cruel to compel the men to
+bear me across.  Nothing remained, therefore, but to march on, all
+encumbered as I was with my clothing and accoutrements, into these
+several marshy watercourses, with all the philosophical stoicism
+that my nature could muster for such emergencies.  But it was very
+uncomfortable, to say the least of it.
+
+We soon entered the territory of the dreaded Wazavira, but no
+enemy was in sight.  Simba, in his wars, had made clean work of
+the northern part of Uzavira, and we encountered nothing worse than
+a view of the desolated country, which must have been once--judging
+from the number of burnt huts and debris of ruined villages--extremely
+populous.  A young jungle was sprouting up vigorously in their
+fields, and was rapidly becoming the home of wild denizens of the
+forest.  In one of the deserted and ruined villages, I found
+quarters for the Expedition, which were by no means uncomfortable.
+I shot three brace of guinea-fowl in the neighbourhood of Misonghi,
+the deserted village we occupied, and Ulimengo, one of my hunters,
+bagged an antelope, called the "mbawala," for whose meat some of
+the Wanyamwezi have a superstitious aversion.  I take this species
+of antelope, which stands about three and a half feet high, of a
+reddish hide, head long, horns short, to be the "Nzoe" antelope
+discovered by Speke in Uganda, and whose Latin designation is,
+according to Dr. Sclater, Tragelaphus Spekii."  It has a short
+bushy tail, and long hair along the spine.
+
+A long march in a west-by-north direction, lasting six hours,
+through a forest where the sable antelope was seen, and which was
+otherwise prolific with game, brought us to a stream which ran by
+the base of a lofty conical hill, on whose slopes flourished quite
+a forest of feathery bamboo.
+
+On the 20th, leaving our camp, which lay between the stream and
+the conical hill above mentioned, and surmounting a low ridge which
+sloped from the base of the hill-cone, we were greeted with another
+picturesque view, of cones and scarped mountains, which heaved
+upward in all directions.  A march of nearly five hours through
+this picturesque country brought us to the Mpokwa River, one of
+the tributaries of the Rungwa, and to a village lately deserted
+by the Wazavira.  The huts were almost all intact, precisely as
+they were left by their former inhabitants.  In the gardens were
+yet found vegetables, which, after living so long on meat, were
+most grateful to us.  On the branches of trees still rested the
+Lares and Penates of the Wazavira, in the shape of large and
+exceedingly well-made earthen pots.
+
+In the neighbouring river one of my men succeeded, in few minutes,
+in catching sixty fish of the silurus species the hand alone.  A
+number of birds hovered about stream , such as the white-headed
+fish-eagle and the kingfisher, enormous, snowy spoonbills, ibis,
+martins, &c.  This river issued from a mountain clump eight miles
+or so north of the village of Mpokwa, and comes flowing down a narrow
+thread of water, sinuously winding amongst tall reeds and dense
+brakes on either side-the home of hundreds of antelopes and buffaloes.
+South of Mpokwa, the valley broadens, and the mountains deflect
+eastward and westward, and beyond this point commences the plain
+known as the Rikwa, which, during the Masika is inundated, but which,
+in the dry season, presents the same bleached aspect that plains in
+Africa generally do when the grass has ripened.
+
+Travelling up along the right bank of the Mpokwa, on the 21st we
+came to the head of the stream, and the sources of the Mpokwa,
+issuing out of deep defiles enclosed by lofty ranges.  The
+mbawala and the buffalo were plentiful.
+
+On the 22nd, after a march of four hours and a half, we came to the
+beautiful stream of Mtambu--the water of which was sweet, and clear
+as crystal, and flowed northward.  We saw for the first time the
+home of the lion and the leopard.  Hear what Freiligrath says of
+the place:
+
+Where the thorny brake and thicket
+  Densely fill the interspace
+Of the trees, through whose thick branches
+  Never sunshine lights the place,
+There the lion dwells, a monarch,
+  Mightiest among the brutes;
+There his right to reign supremest
+  Never one his claim disputes.
+There he layeth down to slumber,
+  Having slain and ta'en his fill;
+There he roameth, there be croucheth,
+  As it suits his lordly will.
+
+We camped but a few yards from just such a place as the poet
+describes.  The herd-keeper who attended the goats and donkeys,
+soon after our arrival in camp, drove the animals to water, and
+in order to obtain it they travelled through a tunnel in the brake,
+caused by elephants and rhinoceros.  They had barely entered the
+dark cavernous passage, when a black-spotted leopard sprang, and
+fastened its fangs in the neck of one of the donkeys, causing it,
+from the pain, to bray hideously.  Its companions set up such a
+frightful chorus, and so lashed their heels in the air at the
+feline marauder, that the leopard bounded away through the brake,
+as if in sheer dismay at the noisy cries which the attack had
+provoked.  The donkey's neck exhibited some frightful wounds, but
+the animal was not dangerously hurt.
+
+Thinking that possibly I might meet with an adventure with a
+lion or a leopard in that dark belt of tall trees, under whose
+impenetrable shade grew the dense thicket that formed such
+admirable coverts for the carnivorous species, I took a stroll
+along the awesome place with the gunbearer, Kalulu, carrying an
+extra gun, and a further supply of ammunition.  We crept
+cautiously along, looking keenly into the deep dark dens, the
+entrances of which were revealed to us, as we journeyed, expectant
+every moment to behold the reputed monarch of the brake and
+thicket, bound forward to meet us, and I took a special delight
+in picturing, in my imagination, the splendor and majesty of the
+wrathful brute, as he might stand before me.  I peered closely
+into every dark opening, hoping to see the deadly glitter of the
+great angry eyes, and the glowering menacing front of the lion as
+he would regard me.  But, alas! after an hour's search for adventure,
+I had encountered nothing, and I accordingly waxed courageous, and
+crept into one of these leafy, thorny caverns, and found myself
+shortly standing under a canopy of foliage that was held above my
+head fully a hundred feet by the shapely and towering stems of the
+royal mvule.  Who can imagine the position?  A smooth lawn-like glade;
+a dense and awful growth of impenetrable jungle around us; those
+stately natural pillars--a glorious phalanx of royal trees, bearing
+at such sublime heights vivid green masses of foliage, through which
+no single sun-ray penetrated, while at our feet babbled the primeval
+brook, over smooth pebbles, in soft tones befitting the sacred quiet
+of the scene!  Who could have desecrated this solemn, holy harmony of
+nature?  But just as I was thinking it impossible that any man could
+be tempted to disturb the serene solitude of the place, I saw a
+monkey perched high on a branch over my head, contemplating, with
+something of an awe-struck look, the strange intruders beneath.
+Well, I could not help it, I laughed--laughed loud and long, until
+I was hushed by the chaos of cries and strange noises which seemed
+to respond to my laughing.  A troop of monkeys, hidden in the
+leafy depths above, had been rudely awakened, and, startled by
+the noise I made, were hurrying away from the scene with a dreadful
+clamor of cries and shrieks.
+
+Emerging again into the broad sunlight, I strolled further in
+search of something to shoot.  Presently, I saw, feeding quietly
+in the forest which bounded the valley of the Mtambu on the left,
+a huge, reddish-coloured wild boar, armed with most horrid tusks.
+Leaving Kalulu crouched down behind a tree, and my solar helmet
+behind another close by--that I might more safely stalk the
+animal--I advanced towards him some forty yards, and after taking
+a deliberate aim, fired at his fore shoulder.  As if nothing had hurt
+him whatever, the animal made a furious bound, and then stood with
+his bristles erected, and tufted tail, curved over the back--a most
+formidable brute in appearance.  While he was thus listening, and
+searching the neighbourhood with his keen, small eyes, I planted
+another shot in his chest, which ploughed its way through his body.
+Instead of falling, however, as I expected he would, he charged
+furiously in the direction the bullet had come, and as he rushed
+past me, another ball was fired, which went right through him; but
+still he kept on, until, within six or seven yards from the trees
+behind which Kalulu was crouching down on one side, and the helmet
+was resting behind another, he suddenly halted, and then dropped.
+But as I was about to advance on him with my knife to cut his throat,
+he suddenly started up; his eyes had caught sight of the little boy
+Kalulu, and were then, almost immediately afterwards, attracted by
+the sight of the snowy helmet.  These strange objects on either side
+of him proved too much for the boar, for, with a terrific grunt,
+he darted on one side into a thick brake, from which it was
+impossible to oust him, and as it was now getting late, and the camp
+was about three miles away, I was reluctantly obliged to return
+without the meat.
+
+On our way to camp we were accompanied by a large animal which
+persistently followed us on our left.  It was too dark to see
+plainly, but a large form was visible, if not very clearly
+defined.  It must have been a lion, unless it was the ghost of
+the dead boar.
+
+That night, about 11 P.M., we were startled by the roar of a lion,
+in close proximity to the camp.  Soon it was joined by another,
+and another still, and the novelty of the thing kept me awake.
+I peered through the gate of the camp, and endeavoured to sight
+a rifle--my little Winchester, in the accuracy of which I had
+perfect confidence; but, alas! for the cartridges, they might have
+been as well filled with sawdust for all the benefit I derived from
+them.  Disgusted with the miserable ammunition, I left the lions
+alone, and turned in, with their roaring as a lullaby.
+
+That terrestrial paradise for the hunter, the valley of the pellucid
+Mtambu, was deserted by us the next morning for the settlement
+commonly known to the Wakawendi as Imrera's, with as much unconcern
+as though it were a howling desert.  The village near which we
+encamped was called Itaga, in the district of Rusawa.  As soon as
+we had crossed the River Mtambu we had entered Ukawendi, commonly
+called "Kawendi" by the natives of the country.
+
+The district of Rusawa is thickly populated.  The people are quiet
+and well-disposed to strangers, though few ever come to this region
+from afar.  One or two Wasawahili traders visit it every year or so
+from Pumburu and Usowa; but very little ivory being obtained
+from the people, the long distance between the settlements serves
+to deter the regular trader from venturing hither.
+
+If caravans arrive here, the objective point to them is the
+district of Pumburu, situated south-westerly one day's good
+marching, or, say, thirty statute miles from Imrera; or they
+make for Usowa, on the Tanganika, via Pumburu, Katuma, Uyombeh,
+and Ugarawah.  Usowa is quite an important district on the Tanganika,
+populous and flourishing.  This was the road we had intended to
+adopt after leaving Imrera, but the reports received at the latter
+place forbade such a venture.  For Mapunda, the Sultan of Usowa,
+though a great friend to Arab traders, was at war with the colony
+of the Wazavira, who we must remember were driven from Mpokwa
+and vicinity in Utanda, and who were said to have settled between
+Pumburu and Usowa.
+
+It remained for us, like wise, prudent men, having charge of a
+large and valuable Expedition on our hands, to decide what to do,
+and what route to adopt, now that we had approached much nearer to
+Ujiji than we were to Unyanyembe.  I suggested that we should make
+direct for the Tanganika by compass, trusting to no road or guide,
+but to march direct west until we came to the Tanganika, and then
+follow the lake shore on foot until we came to Ujiji.  For it ever
+haunted my mind, that, if Dr. Livingstone should hear of my coming,
+which he might possibly do if I travelled along any known road, he
+would leave, and that my search for him would consequently be a
+"stern chase."  But my principal men thought it better that we should
+now boldly turn our faces north, and march for the Malagarazi, which
+was said to be a large river flowing from the east to the Tanganika.
+But none of my men knew the road to the Malagarazi, neither could
+guides be hired from Sultan Imrera.  We were, however, informed that
+the Malagarazi was but two days' march from Imrera.  I thought it
+safe, in such a case, to provision my men with three days' rations.
+The village of Itaga is situated in a deep mountain hollow, finely
+overlooking a large extent of cultivation.  The people grow sweet
+potatoes, manioc--out of which tapioca is made--beans, and the
+holcus.  Not one chicken could be purchased for love or money,
+and, besides grain, only a lean, scraggy specimen of a goat, a
+long time ago imported form Uvinza, was procurable.
+
+October the 25th will be remembered by me as a day of great troubles;
+in fact, a series of troubles began from this date.  We struck an
+easterly road in order to obtain a passage to the lofty plateau which
+bounded the valley of Imrera on the west and on the north.  We camped,
+after a two and a half hours' march, at its foot.  The defile promised
+a feasible means of ascent to the summit of the plateau, which rose
+upward in a series of scarps a thousand feet above the valley of
+Imrera.
+
+While ascending that lofty arc of mountains which bounded westerly
+and northerly the basin of Imrera, extensive prospects southward and
+eastward were revealed.  The character of the scenery at Ukawendi is
+always animated and picturesque, but never sublime.  The folds of this
+ridge contained  several ruins of bomas, which seemed to have been
+erected during war time.
+
+The mbemba fruit was plentiful along this march, and every few minutes
+I could see from the rear one or two men hastening to secure a treasure
+of it which they discovered on the ground.
+
+A little before reaching the camp I had a shot at a leopard, but
+failed to bring him down as he bounded away.  At night the lions
+roared as at the Mtambu River.
+
+A lengthy march under the deep twilight shadows of a great forest,
+which protected us from the hot sunbeams, brought us, on the next
+day, to a camp newly constructed by a party of Arabs from Ujiji, who
+had advanced thus far on their road to Unyanyembe, but, alarmed at
+the  reports of the war between Mirambo and the Arabs, had
+returned.  Our route was along the right bank of the Rugufu, a
+broad sluggish stream, well choked with the matete reeds and the
+papyrus.  The tracks and the bois de vaches of buffaloes were
+numerous, and there were several indications of rhinoceros being
+near.  In a deep clump of timber near this river we discovered a
+colony of bearded and leonine-looking monkeys.
+
+As we were about leaving our camp on the morning of the 28th a herd
+of buffalo walked deliberately into view.  Silence was quickly
+restored, but not before the animals, to their great surprise, had
+discovered the danger which confronted them.  We commenced stalking
+them, but we soon heard the thundering sound of their gallop,
+after which it becomes a useless task to follow them, with a long
+march in a wilderness before one.
+
+The road led on this day over immense sheets of sandstone and iron
+ore.  The water was abominable, and scarce, and famine began to
+stare us in the face.  We travelled for six hours, and had yet seen
+no sign of cultivation anywhere.  According to my map we were yet
+two long marches from the Malagarazi--if Captain Burton had correctly
+laid down the position of the river; according to the natives'
+account, we should have arrived at the Malagarazi on this day.
+
+On the 29th we left our camp, and after a few minutes, we were in
+view of the sublimest, but ruggedest, scenes we had yet beheld in
+Africa.  The country was cut up in all directions by deep, wild,
+and narrow ravines trending in all directions, but generally
+toward the north-west, while on either side rose enormous square
+masses of naked rock (sandstone), sometimes towering, and rounded,
+sometimes pyramidal, sometimes in truncated cones, sometimes in
+circular ridges, with sharp, rugged, naked backs, with but little
+vegetation anywhere visible, except it obtained a precarious tenure
+in the fissured crown of some gigantic hill-top, whither some soil
+had fallen, or at the base of the reddish ochre scarps which
+everywhere lifted their fronts to our view.
+
+A long series of descents down rocky gullies, wherein we were
+environed by threatening masses of disintegrated rock, brought us
+to a dry, stony ravine, with mountain heights looming above us a
+thousand feet high.  This ravine we followed, winding around in all
+directions, but which gradually widened, however, into a broad
+plain, with a western trend.  The road, leaving this, struck across
+a low ridge to the north; and we were in view of deserted
+settlements where the villages were built on frowning castellated
+masses of rock.  Near an upright mass of rock over seventy feet
+high, and about fifty yards in diameter, which dwarfed the gigantic
+sycamore close to it, we made our camp, after five hours and thirty
+minutes' continuous and rapid marching.
+
+The people were very hungry; they had eaten every scrap of meat,
+and every grain they possessed, twenty hours before, and there was
+no immediate prospect of food.  I had but a pound and a half of flour
+left, and this would not have sufficed to begin to feed a force of
+over forty-five people; but I had something like thirty pounds of
+tea, and twenty pounds of sugar left, and I at once, as soon as we
+arrived at camp, ordered every kettle to be filled and placed on
+the fire, and then made tea for all; giving each man a quart of a
+hot, grateful beverage; well sweetened.  Parties stole out also
+into the depths: of the jungle to search for wild fruit, and soon
+returned laden with baskets of the wood-peach and tamarind fruit,
+which though it did not satisfy, relieved them.  That night, before
+going to sleep, the Wangwana set up a loud prayer to "Allah" to
+give them food.
+
+We rose betimes in the morning, determined to travel on until food
+could be procured, or we dropped down from sheer fatigue and
+weakness.  Rhinoceros' tracks abounded, and buffalo seemed to be
+plentiful, but we never beheld a living thing.  We crossed scores
+of short steeps, and descended as often into the depths of dry,
+stony gullies, and then finally entered a valley, bounded on one
+side by a triangular mountain with perpendicular sides, and on the
+other by a bold group, a triplet of hills.  While marching down
+this valley--which soon changed its dry, bleached aspect to a vivid
+green--we saw a forest in the distance, and shortly found ourselves
+in corn-fields.  Looking keenly around for a village, we descried
+it on the summit of the lofty triangular hill on our right.  A loud
+exultant shout was raised at the discovery.  The men threw down their
+packs, and began to clamour for food.  Volunteers were asked to
+come forward to take cloth, and scale the heights to obtain it from
+the village, at any price.  While three or four sallied off we rested
+on the ground, quite worn out.  In about an hour the foraging party
+returned with the glorious tidings that food was plentiful; that the
+village we saw was called, "Welled Nzogera's"--the son of Nzogera--by
+which, of course, we knew that we were in Uvinza, Nzogera being the
+principal chief in Uvinza.  We were further informed that Nzogera,
+the father, was at war with Lokanda-Mire, about some salt-pans in
+the valley of the Malagarazi, and that it would be difficult to go
+to Ujiji by the usual road, owing to this war; but, for a
+consideration, the son of Nzogera was willing to supply us with
+guides, who would take us safely, by a northern road, to Ujiji.
+
+Everything auguring well for our prospects, we encamped to enjoy
+the good cheer, for which our troubles and privations, during the
+transit of the Ukawendi forests and jungles, had well prepared us.
+
+I am now going to extract from my Diary of the march, as, without
+its aid, I deem it impossible to relate fully our various
+experiences, so as to show them properly as they occurred to us;
+and as these extracts were written and recorded at the close of
+each day, they possess more interest, in my opinion, than a cold
+relation of facts, now toned down in memory.
+
+October 31st. Tuesday.--Our road led E.N.E. for a considerable
+time after leaving the base of the triangular mountain whereon the
+son of Nzogera has established his stronghold, in order to avoid a
+deep and impassable portion of marsh, that stood between us and the
+direct route to the Malagarazi River.  The valley sloped rapidly
+to this marsh, which received in its broad bosom the drainage of
+three extensive ranges.  Soon we turned our faces northwest, and
+prepared to cross the marsh; and the guides informed us, as we
+halted on its eastern bank, of a terrible catastrophe which
+occurred a few yards above where we were preparing to cross.
+They told of an Arab and his caravan, consisting of thirty-five
+slaves, who had suddenly sunk out of sight, and who were never
+more heard of.  This marsh, as it appeared to us, presented a
+breadth of some hundreds of yards, on which grew a close network
+of grass, with much decayed matter mixed up with it.  In the
+centre of this, and underneath it, ran a broad, deep, and rapid
+stream.  As the guides proceeded across, the men stole after
+them with cautious footsteps.  As they arrived near the centre
+we began to see this unstable grassy bridge, so curiously provided
+by nature for us, move up and down in heavy languid undulations,
+like the swell of the sea after a storm.  Where the two asses of
+the Expedition moved, the grassy waves rose a foot high; but suddenly
+one unfortunate animal plunged his feet through, and as he was
+unable to rise, he soon made a deep hollow, which was rapidly filling
+with water.  With the aid of ten men, however, we were enabled to
+lift him bodily up and land him on a firmer part, and guiding them
+both across rapidly, the entire caravan crossed without accident.
+
+On arriving at the other side, we struck off to the north, and
+found ourselves in a delightful country, in every way suitable
+for agriculturists.  Great rocks rose here and there, but in their
+fissures rose stately trees, under whose umbrage nestled the
+villages of the people.  We found the various village elders greedy
+for cloth, but the presence of the younger son of Nzogera's men
+restrained their propensity for extortion.  Goats and sheep were
+remarkably cheap, and in good condition; and, consequently, to
+celebrate our arrival near the Malagarazi, a flock of eight goats
+was slaughtered, and distributed to the men.
+
+November 1st.--Striking north-west, after leaving our camp, and
+descending the slope of a mountain, we soon beheld the anxiously
+looked-for Malagarazi, a narrow but deep stream, flowing through
+a valley pent in by lofty mountains.  Fish-eating birds lined the
+trees on its banks; villages were thickly scattered about.  Food
+was abundant and cheap.
+
+After travelling along the left bank of the river a few miles, we
+arrived at the settlements recognizing Kiala as their ruler.  I had
+anticipated we should be able at once to cross the river, but
+difficulties arose.  We were told to camp, before any negotiations
+could be entered into.  When we demurred, we were informed we might
+cross the river if we wished, but we should not be assisted by any
+Mvinza.
+
+Being compelled to halt for this day, the tent was pitched in the
+middle of one of the villages, and the bales were stored in one of
+the huts, with four soldiers to guard them.  After despatching an
+embassy to Kiala, eldest son of the great chief Nzogera, to
+request permission to cross the river as a peaceable caravan, Kiala
+sent word that the white man should cross his river after the
+payment of fifty-six cloths!  Fifty-six cloths signified a bale
+nearly!
+
+Here was another opportunity for diplomacy.  Bombay and Asmani
+were empowered to treat with Kiala about the honga, but it was not
+to exceed twenty-five doti.  At 6 A.M., having spoken for seven
+hours, the two men returned, with the demand for thirteen doti for
+Nzogera, and ten doti for Kiala.  Poor Bombay was hoarse, but
+Asmani still smiled; and I relented, congratulating myself that
+the preposterous demand, which was simply robbery, was no worse.
+
+Three hours later another demand was made.  Kiala had been visited
+by a couple of chiefs from his father; and the chiefs being told
+that a white man was at the ferry, put in a claim for a couple of
+guns and a keg of gunpowder.  But here my patience was exhausted,
+and I declared that they should have to take them by force, for I
+would never consent to be robbed and despoiled after any such
+fashion.
+
+Until 11 P.M., Bombay and Asmani were negotiating about this extra
+demand, arguing, quarreling, threatening, until Bombay declared
+they would talk him mad if it lasted much longer.  I told Bombay
+to take two cloths, one for each chief, and, if they did not
+consider it enough, then I should fight.  The present was taken,
+and the negotiations were terminated at midnight.
+
+November 2nd.--Ihata Island, one and a half hour west of Kiala's.
+We arrived before the Island of Ihata, on the left bank of the
+Malagarazi, at 5 p.m.; the morning having been wasted in puerile
+talk with the owner of the canoes at the ferry.  The final demand
+for ferriage across was eight yards of cloth and four fundo* of
+sami-sami, or red beads; which was at once paid.  Four men, with
+their loads, were permitted to cross in the small, unshapely, and
+cranky canoes.  When the boatmen had discharged their canoes of
+their passengers and cargoes, they were ordered to halt on the
+other side, and, to my astonishment, another demand was made.  The
+ferrymen had found that two fundo of these were of short measure,
+and two fundo more must be paid, otherwise the contract for
+ferrying us across would be considered null and void.  So two fundo
+more were added, but not without demur and much "talk," which in
+these lands is necessary.
+
+** 4 fundo == 40 necklaces; 1 fundo being 10 necklaces.
+
+Three times the canoes went backwards and forwards, when, lo!
+another demand was made, with the usual clamour and fierce wordy
+dispute; this time for five khete # for the man who guided us to
+the ferry, a shukka of cloth for a babbler, who had attached
+himself to the old-womanish Jumah, who did nothing but babble and
+increase the clamor.  These demands were also settled.
+
+# Necklaces.
+
+About sunset we endeavoured to cross the donkeys.  "Simba," a fine
+wild Kinyamwezi donkey, went in first, with a rope attached to his
+neck.  He had arrived at the middle of the stream when we saw
+him begin to struggle--a crocodile had seized him by the throat.
+The poor animal's struggles were terrific.  Chowpereh was dragging
+on the rope with all his might, but to no use, for the donkey sank,
+and we saw no more of him.  The depth of the river at this place was
+about fifteen feet.  We had seen the light-brown heads, the glittering
+eyes, and the ridgy backs, hovering about the vicinity, but we had
+never thought that the reptiles would advance so near such an exciting
+scene as the vicinity of the ferry presented during the crossing.
+Saddened a little by this loss, we resumed our work, and by 7 P.M.
+we were all across, excepting Bombay and the only donkey now left,
+which was to be brought across in the morning, when the crocodiles
+should have deserted the river.
+
+November 3rd.--What contention have we not been a witness to these
+last three days!  What anxiety have we not suffered ever since our
+arrival in Uvinza!  The Wavinza are worse than the Wagogo, and their
+greed is more insatiable.  We got the donkey across with the aid of
+a mganga, or medicine man, who spat some chewed leaves of a tree
+which grows close to the stream over him.  He informed me he could
+cross the river at any time, day or night, after rubbing his body
+with these chewed leaves, which he believed to be a most potent medicine.
+
+About 10 A.M. appeared from the direction of Ujiji a caravan of
+eighty Waguhha, a tribe which occupies a tract of country on the
+south-western side of the Lake Tanganika.  We asked the news, and
+were told a white man had just arrived at Ujiji from Manyuema.
+This news startled us all.
+
+"A white man?" we asked.
+
+"Yes, a white man," they replied.
+
+"How is he dressed?"
+
+"Like the master," they answered, referring to me.
+
+"Is he young, or old?"
+
+"He is old.  He has white hair on his face, and is sick."
+
+"Where has he come from?"
+
+"From a very far country away beyond Uguhha, called Manyuema."
+
+"Indeed! and is he stopping at Ujiji now?"
+
+"Yes, we saw him about eight days ago."
+
+"Do you think he will stop there until we see him?"
+
+"Sigue" (don't know).
+
+"Was he ever at Ujiji before?"
+
+"Yes, he went away a long time ago."
+
+Hurrah!  This is Livingstone!  He must be Livingstone!  He can be
+no other; but still;--he may be some one else--some one from the
+West Coast--or perhaps he is Baker!  No; Baker has no white hair
+on his face.  But we must now march quick, lest he hears we are
+coming, and runs away.
+
+I addressed my men, and asked them if they were willing to march
+to Ujiji without a single halt, and then promised them, if they
+acceded to my wishes, two doti each man.  All answered in the
+affirmative, almost as much rejoiced as I was myself.  But I was
+madly rejoiced; intensely eager to resolve the burning question,
+"Is it Dr. David Livingstone?"  God grant me patience, but I do
+wish there was a railroad, or, at least, horses in this country.
+
+We set out at once from the banks of the Malagarazi, accompanied
+by two guides furnished us by Usenge, the old man of the ferry,
+who, now that we had crossed, showed himself more amiably disposed
+to us.  We arrived at the village of Isinga, Sultan Katalambula,
+after a little over an hour's march across a saline plain, but
+which as we advanced into the interior became fertile and productive.
+
+November 4th.--Started early with great caution, maintaining deep
+silence.  The guides were sent forward, one two hundred yards ahead
+of the other, that we might be warned in time.  The first part of
+the march was through a thin jungle of dwarf trees, which got thinner
+and thinner until finally it vanished altogether, and we had
+entered Uhha--a plain country.  Villages were visible by the score
+among the tall bleached stalks of dourra and maize.  Sometimes three,
+sometimes five, ten, or twenty beehive-shaped huts formed a village.
+The Wahha were evidently living in perfect security, for not one
+village amongst them all was surrounded with the customary
+defence of an African village.  A narrow dry ditch formed the only
+boundary between Uhha and Uvinza.  On entering Uhha, all danger
+from Makumbi vanished.
+
+We halted at Kawanga, the chief of which lost no time in making us
+understand that he was the great Mutware of Kimenyi under the king,
+and that he was the tribute gatherer for his Kiha majesty.  He
+declared that he was the only one in Kimenyi--an eastern division
+of Uhha--who could demand tribute; and that it would be very
+satisfactory to him, and a saving of trouble to ourselves, if we
+settled his claim of twelve doti of good cloths at once.  We did
+not think it the best way of proceeding, knowing as we did the
+character of the native African; so we at once proceeded to
+diminish this demand; but, after six hours' hot argument, the
+Mutware only reduced it by two.  This claim was then settled,
+upon the understanding that we should be allowed to travel through
+Uhha as far as the Rusugi River without being further mulcted.
+
+November 5th.--Leaving Kawanga early in the morning and
+continuing our march over the boundless plains, which were bleached
+white by the hot equatorial sun, we were marching westward full of
+pleasant anticipations that we were nearing the end of our
+troubles, joyfully congratulating ourselves that within five days
+we should see that which I had come so far from civilisation, and
+through so many difficulties, to see, and were about passing a
+cluster of villages, with all the confidence which men possess
+against whom no one had further claim or a word to say, when I
+noticed two men darting from a group of natives who were watching
+us, and running towards the head of the Expedition, with the object,
+evidently, of preventing further progress.
+
+The caravan stopped, and I walked forward to ascertain the cause
+from the two natives.  I was greeted politely by the two Wahha
+with the usual "Yambos," and was then asked, "Why does the white
+man pass by the village of the King of Uhha without salutation
+and a gift?  Does not the white man know there lives a king in Uhha,
+to whom the Wangwana and Arabs pay something for right of passage?"
+
+"Why, we paid last night to the chief of Kawanga, who informed us
+that he was the man deputed by the King of Uhha to collect the
+toll."
+
+"How much did you pay?"
+
+"Ten doti of good cloth."
+
+"Are you sure?"
+
+"Quite sure.  If you ask him, he will tell you so."
+
+"Well," said one of the Wahha, a fine, handsome, intelligent-looking
+youth, "it is our duty to the king to halt you here until we find out
+the truth of this.  Will you walk to our village, and rest yourselves
+under the shade of our trees until we can send messengers to Kawanga?"
+
+"No; the sun is but an hour high, and we have far to travel;
+but, in order to show you we do not seek to pass through your
+country without doing that which is right, we will rest where we
+now stand, and we will send with your messengers two of our
+soldiers, who will show you the man to whom we paid the cloth."
+
+The messengers departed; but, in the meantime, the handsome youth,
+who turned out to be the nephew of the King, whispered some order
+to a lad, who immediately hastened away, with the speed of an
+antelope, to the cluster of villages which we had just passed.  The
+result of this errand, as we saw in a short time, was the approach
+of a body of warriors, about fifty in number, headed by a tall,
+fine-looking man, who was dressed in a crimson robe called Joho,
+two ends of which were tied in a knot over the left shoulder; a
+new piece of American sheeting was folded like a turban around his
+head, and a large curved piece of polished ivory was suspended to
+his neck.  He and his people were all armed with spears, and bows
+and arrows, and their advance was marked with a deliberation that
+showed they felt confidence in any issue that might transpire.
+
+We were halted on the eastern side of the Pombwe stream, near the
+village of Lukomo, in Kimenyi, Uhha.  The gorgeously-dressed chief
+was a remarkable man in appearance.  His face was oval in form,
+high cheek-bones, eyes deeply sunk, a prominent and bold forehead,
+a fine nose, and a well-cut mouth; he was tall in figure, and
+perfectly symmetrical.
+
+When near to us, he hailed me with the words,
+
+"Yambo, bana?--How do you do, master?" in quite a cordial
+tone.
+
+I replied cordially also, "Yambo, mutware?--How do you do, chief?"
+
+We, myself and men, interchanged "Yambos" with his warriors; and
+there was nothing in our first introduction to indicate that the
+meeting was of a hostile character.
+
+The chief seated himself, his haunches resting on his heels, laying
+down his bow and arrows by his side; his men did likewise.
+
+I seated myself on a bale, and each of my men sat down on their
+loads, forming quite a semicircle.  The Wahha slightly outnumbered
+my party; but, while they were only armed with bows and arrows,
+spears, and knob-sticks, we were armed with rifles, muskets,
+revolvers, pistols, and hatchets.
+
+All were seated, and deep silence was maintained by the assembly.
+The great plains around us were as still in this bright noon as if
+they were deserted of all living creatures.  Then the chief
+spoke:
+
+"I am Mionvu, the great Mutware of Kimenyi, and am next to the
+King, who lives yonder," pointing to a large village near some
+naked hills about ten miles to the north.  "I have come to talk
+with the white man.  It has always been the custom of the Arabs
+and the Wangwana to make a present to the King when they pass
+through his country.  Does not the white man mean to pay the King's
+dues?  Why does the white man halt in the road?  Why will he not
+enter the village of Lukomo, where there is food and shade--where
+we can discuss this thing quietly?  Does the white man mean to fight?
+I know well he is stronger than we are.  His men have guns, and the
+Wahha have but bows and arrows, and spears; but Uhha is large, and
+our villages are many.  Let him look about him everywhere--all is Uhha,
+and our country extends much further than he can see or walk in a
+day.  The King of Uhha is strong; yet he wishes friendship only
+with the white man.  Will the white man have war or peace?"
+
+A deep murmur of assent followed this speech of Mionvu from his
+people, and disapprobation, blended with a certain uneasiness;
+from my men.  When about replying, the words of General Sherman,
+which I heard him utter to the chiefs of the Arapahoes and
+Cheyennes at North Platte, in 1867, came to my mind; and
+something of their spirit I embodied in my reply to Mionvu,
+Mutware of Kimenyi.
+
+"Mionvu, the great Mutware, asks me if I have come for war.
+When did Mionvu ever hear of white men warring against black men?
+Mionvu must understand that the white men are different from the
+black.  White men do not leave their country to fight the black
+people, neither do they come here to buy ivory or slaves.  They
+come to make friends with black people; they come to search for
+rivers; and lakes, and mountains; they come to discover what countries,
+what peoples, what rivers, what lakes, what forests, what plains,
+what mountains and hills are in your country; to know the
+different animals that are in the land of the black people, that,
+when they go back, they may tell the white kings, and men, and
+children, what they have seen and heard in the land so far from
+them.  The white people are different from the Arabs and Wangwana;
+the white people know everything, and are very strong.  When they
+fight, the Arabs and the Wangwana run away.  We have great guns
+which thunder,, and when they shoot the earth trembles; we have
+guns which carry bullets further than you can see:  even with these
+little things" (pointing to my revolvers) "I could kill ten men
+quicker than you could count.  We are stronger than the Wahha.
+Mionvu has spoken the truth, yet we do not wish to fight.  I could
+kill Mionvu now, yet I talk to him as to a friend.  I wish to be a
+friend to Mionvu, and to all black people.  Will Mionvu say what
+I can do for him?"
+
+As these words were translated to him--imperfectly, I suppose,
+but still, intelligibly--the face of the Wahha showed how well
+they appreciated them.  Once or twice I thought I detected something
+like fear, but my assertions that I desired peace and friendship
+with them soon obliterated all such feelings.
+
+Mionvu replied:
+
+"The white man tells me he is friendly.  Why does he not come to
+our village?  Why does he stop on the road?  The sun is hot.
+Mionvu will not speak here any more.  If the white man is a friend
+he will come to the village."
+
+"We must stop now.  It is noon.  You have broken our march.  We
+will go and camp in your village," I said, at the same time rising
+and pointing to the men to take up their loads.
+
+We were compelled to camp; there was no help for it; the messengers
+had not returned from Kawanga.  Having arrived in his village,
+Mionvu had cast himself at full length under the scanty shade
+afforded by a few trees within the boma.  About 2 P.M. the
+messengers returned, saying it was true the chief of Kawanga had
+taken ten cloths; not, however for the King of Uhha, but for
+himself!
+
+Mionvu, who evidently was keen-witted, and knew perfectly what he
+was about, now roused himself, and began to make miniature faggots
+of thin canes, ten in each faggot, and shortly he presented ten
+of these small bundles, which together contained one hundred, to me,
+saying each stick represented a cloth, and the amount of the "honga"
+required by the King of Uhha was ONE HUNDRED CLOTHS!--nearly two bales!
+
+Recovering from our astonishment, which was almost indescribable,
+we offered TEN.
+
+"Ten! to the King of Uhha!  Impossible.  You do not stir from
+Lukomo until you pay us one hundred!" exclaimed Mionvu, in a
+significant manner.
+
+I returned no answer, but went to my hut, which Mionvu had cleared
+for my use, and Bombay, Asmani, Mabruki, and Chowpereh were invited--
+to come to me for consultation.  Upon my asking them if we could not
+fight our way through Uhha, they became terror-stricken, and Bombay,
+in imploring accents, asked me to think well what I was about to do,
+because it was useless to enter on a war with the Wahha.  "Uhha is
+all a plain country; we cannot hide anywhere.  Every village will
+rise all about us, and how can forty-five men fight thousands of
+people?  They would kill us all in a few minutes, and how would you
+ever reach Ujiji if you died?  Think of it, my dear master, and do
+not throw your life away for a few rags of cloth."
+
+"Well, but, Bombay, this is robbery.  Shall we submit to be robbed?
+Shall we give this fellow everything he asks?  He might as well ask
+me for all the cloth, and all my guns, without letting him see that
+we can fight.  I can kill Mionvu and his principal men myself, and
+you can slay all those howlers out there without much trouble.
+If Mionvu and his principal were dead we should not be troubled much,
+and we could strike south to the Mala-garazi, and go west to Ujiji."
+
+ "No, no, dear master, don't think of it for a moment.  If we went
+ neat the Malagarazi we should come across Lokanda-Mira."
+
+ "Well, then, we will go north."
+
+ "Up that way Uhha extends far; and beyond Uhha are the Watuta."
+
+ "Well, then, say what we shall do.  We must do something; but we
+ must not be robbed."
+
+ "Pay Mionvu what he asks, and let us go away from here.  This is
+ the last place we shall have to pay.  And in four days we shall be
+ in Ujiji."
+
+ "Did Mionvu tell you that this is the last time we would have to
+ pay?"
+
+ "He did, indeed."
+
+ "What do you say, Asmani ?  Shall we fight or pay?"  Asmani's
+ face wore the usual smile, but he replied,
+
+ "I am afraid we must pay.  This is positively the last time."
+
+ "And you, Chowpereh?"
+
+ "Pay, bana; it is better to get along quietly in this country.
+ If we were strong enough they would pay us.  Ah, if we had only
+ two hundred guns, how these Wahha would run!"
+
+ "What do you say, Mabruki?"
+
+ "Ah, master, dear master; it is very hard, and these people are
+ great robbers.  I would like to chop their heads off, all; so I
+ would.  But you had better pay.  This is the last time; and what
+ are one hundred cloths to you?"
+
+ "Well, then, Bombay and Asmani, go to Mionvu, and offer him twenty.
+ If he will not take twenty, give him thirty.  If he refuses thirty,
+ give him forty; then go up to eighty, slowly.  Make plenty of talk;
+ not one doti more.  I swear to you I will shoot Mionvu if he demands
+ more than eighty.  Go, and remember to be wise."
+
+ I will cut the matter short.  At 9 P.M. sixty-four doti were
+ handed over to Mionvu, for the King of Uhha; six doti for
+ himself, and five doti for his sub; altogether seventy-five doti--
+ a bale and a quarter!  No sooner had we paid than they began to
+ fight amongst themselves over the booty, and I was in hopes that
+ the factions would proceed to battle, that I might have good excuse
+ for leaving them, and plunging south to the jungle that I believed
+ existed there, by which means, under its friendly cover, we might
+ strike west.  But no, it was only a verbose war, which portended
+ nothing more than a noisy clamor.
+
+ November 6th.--At dawn we were on the road, very silent and sad.
+ Our stock of cloth was much diminished; we had nine bales left,
+ sufficient to have taken us to the Atlantic Ocean--aided by the
+ beads, which were yet untouched--if we practised economy.  If I
+ met many more like Mionvu I had not enough to take me to Ujiji,
+ and, though we were said to be so near, Livingstone seemed to me
+ to be just as far as ever.
+
+ We crossed the Pombwe, and then struck across a slowly-undulating
+ plain rising gradually to mountains on our right, and on our left
+ sinking towards the valley of the Malagarazi, which river was
+ about twenty miles away.  Villages rose to our view everywhere.
+ Food was cheap, milk was plentiful, and the butter good.
+
+ After a four hours' march, we crossed the Kanengi River, and
+ entered the boma of Kahirigi, inhabited by several Watusi and Wahha.
+ Here, we were told, lived the King of Uhha's brother.  This
+ announcement was anything but welcome, and I began to suspect I had
+ fallen into another hornets' nest.  We had not rested two hours
+ before two Wangwana entered my tent, who were slaves of Thani bin
+ Abdullah, our dandified friend of Unyanyembe.  These men came, on
+ the part of the king's brother, to claim the HONGA !  The king's
+ brother, demanded thirty doti!  Half a bale!  Merciful Providence!
+ What shall I do?
+
+ We had been told by Mionvu that the honga of Uhha was settled--and
+ now here is another demand from the King's brother!  It is the
+ second time the lie has been told, and we have twice been deceived.
+ We shall be deceived no more.
+
+ These two men informed us there were five more chiefs, living but
+ two hours from each other, who would exact tribute, or black-mail,
+ like those we had seen.  Knowing this much, I felt a certain calm.
+ It was far better to know the worst at once.  Five more chiefs with
+ their demands would assuredly ruin us.  In view of which, what is
+ to be done?  How am I to reach Livingstone, without being beggared?
+
+ Dismissing the men, I called Bombay, and told him to assist Asmani
+ in settling the honga--" as cheaply as possible."  I then lit my
+ pipe, put on the cap of consideration, and began to think.  Within
+ half an hour, I had made a plan, which was to be attempted to be
+ put in execution that very night.
+
+ I summoned the two slaves of Thani bin Abdullah, after the honga
+ had been settled to everybody's satisfaction--though the profoundest
+ casuistries and diplomatic arguments failed to reduce it lower than
+ twenty-six doti--and began asking them about the possibility of
+ evading the tribute-taking Wahha ahead.
+
+ This rather astonished them at first, and they declared it to be
+ impossible; but, finally, after being pressed, they replied, that
+ one of their number should guide us at midnight, or a little after,
+ into the jungle which grew on the frontiers of Uhha and Uvinza.  By
+ keeping a direct west course through this jungle until we came to
+ Ukaranga we might be enabled--we were told--to travel through Uhha
+ without further trouble.  If I were willing to pay the guide
+ twelve doti, and if I were able to impose silence on my people
+ while passing through the sleeping village, the guide was positive
+ I could reach Ujiji without paying another doti.  It is needless to
+ add, that I accepted the proffered assistance at such a price with
+ joy.
+
+ But there was much to be done.  Provisions were to be purchased,
+ sufficient to last four days, for the tramp through the jungle,
+ and men were at once sent with cloth to purchase grain at any price.
+ Fortune favoured us, for before 8 P.M. we had enough for six days.
+
+ November 7th.--I did not go to sleep at all last night, but a
+ little after midnight, as the moon was beginning to show itself,
+ by gangs of four, the men stole quietly out of the village; and
+ by 3 A.M. the entire Expedition was outside the boma, and not the
+ slightest alarm had been made.  After a signal to the new guide,
+ the Expedition began to move in a southern direction along the
+ right bank of the Kanengi River.  After an hour's march in this
+ direction, we struck west, across the grassy plain, and maintained
+ it, despite the obstacles we encountered, which were sore enough to
+ naked men.  The bright moon lighted our path: dark clouds now and
+ then cast immense long shadows over the deserted and silent plains,
+ and the moonbeans were almost obscured, and at such times our
+ position seemed awful--
+
+ Till the moon.
+ Rising in clouded majesty, at length,
+ Apparent queen, unveiled her peerless light,
+ And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw.
+
+ Bravely toiled the men, without murmur, though their legs were
+ bleeding from the cruel grass.  "Ambrosial morn" at last appeared,
+ with all its beautiful and lovely features.  Heaven was born anew
+ to us, with comforting omens and cheery promise.  The men, though
+ fatigued at the unusual travel, sped forward with quicker, pace as
+ daylight broke, until, at 8 A.M., we sighted the swift Rusugi River,
+ when a halt was ordered in a clump of jungle near it, for breakfast
+ and rest.  Both banks of the river were alive with buffalo, eland,
+ and antelope, but, though the sight was very tempting, we did not
+ fire, because we dared not.  The report of a gun would have alarmed
+ the whole country.  I preferred my coffee, and the contentment which
+ my mind experienced at our success.
+
+ An hour after we had rested, some natives, carrying salt from the
+ Malagarazi, were seen coming up the right bank of the river.  When
+ abreast of our hiding-place, they detected us, and dropping their
+ salt-bags, they took to their heels at once, shouting out as they
+ ran, to alarm some villages that appeared about four miles north of
+ us.  The men were immediately ordered to take up their loads, and
+ in a few minutes we had crossed the Rusugi, and were making direct
+ for a bamboo jungle that appeared in our front.  On, on, we kept
+ steadily until, at 1 P.M., we sighted the little lake of Musunya,
+ as wearied as possible with our nine hours march.
+
+ Lake Musunya is one of the many circular basins found in this part
+ of Uhha.  There was quite a group of them.  The more correct term
+ of these lakes would be immense pools.  In the Masika season, Lake
+ Musunya must extend to three or four miles in length by two in breadth.
+ It swarms with hippopotami, and its shores abound with noble game.
+
+ We were very quiet, as may be imagined, in our bivouac; neither
+ tent nor hut was raised, nor was fire kindled, so that, in case of
+ pursuit, we could move off without delay.  I kept my Winchester
+ rifle (the gift of my friend Mr. Morris, and a rare gift it was
+ for such a crisis) with its magazine full, and two hundred
+ cartridges in a bag slung over my shoulders.  Each soldier's gun
+ was also ready and loaded, and we retired to sleep our fatigues
+ off with a feeling of perfect security.
+
+ November 8th.--Long before dawn appeared, we were on the march, and,
+ as daylight broke, we emerged from the bamboo jungle, and struck
+ across the naked plain of Uhha, once more passing several large
+ pools by the way--far-embracing prospects of undulating country,
+ with here and there a characteristic clump of trees relieving the
+ general nudity of the whole.  Hour after hour we toiled on,
+ across the rolling land waves, the sun shining with all its wonted
+ African fervor, but with its heat slightly tempered by the
+ welcome breezes, which came laden with the fragrance of young
+ grass, and perfume of strange flowers of various hues, that flecked
+ the otherwise pale-green sheet which extended so far around us.
+
+ We arrived at the Rugufu River--not the Ukawendi Rugufu, but the
+ northern stream of that name, a tributary of the Malagarazi.  It
+ was a broad shallow stream, and sluggish, with an almost imperceptible
+ flow south-west.  While we halted in the deep shade afforded by a
+ dense clump of jungle, close to the right bank, resting awhile before
+ continuing our journey.  I distinctly heard a sound as of distant
+ thunder in the west.  Upon asking if it were thunder, I was told it
+ was Kabogo.
+
+ "Kabogo? what is that?"
+
+ "It is a great mountain on the other side of the Tanganika, full
+ of deep holes, into which the water rolls; and when there is wind
+ on the Tanganika, there is a sound like mvuha (thunder).  Many
+ boats have been lost there, and it is a custom with Arabs and
+ natives to throw cloth--Merikani and Kaniki--and especially white
+ (Merikani) beads, to appease the mulungu (god) of the lake.
+ Those who throw beads generally get past without trouble,
+ but those who do not throw beads into the lake get lost, and are
+ drowned.  Oh, it is a dreadful place!"  This story was told me by
+ the ever-smiling guide Asmani, and was corroborated by other
+ former mariners of the lake whom I had with me.
+
+ At the least, this place where we halted for dinner, on the banks
+ of the Rugufu River, is eighteen and a half hours, or forty-six
+ miles, from Ujiji; and, as Kabogo is said to be near Uguhha, it
+ must be over sixty miles from Ujiji; therefore the sound of the
+ thundering surf, which is said to roll into the caves of Kabogo,
+ was heard by us at a distance of over one hundred miles away from
+ them.
+
+ Continuing our journey for three hours longer, through thin
+ forests, over extensive beds of primitive rock, among fields of
+ large boulders thickly strewn about, passing by numerous herds
+ of buffalo, giraffe, and zebra, over a quaking quagmire which
+ resembled peat, we arrived at the small stream of Sunuzzi, to a
+ camping place only a mile removed from a large settlement of Wahha.
+ But we were buried in the depths of a great forest--no road was in
+ the vicinity, no noise was made, deep silence was preserved; nor
+ were fires lit.  We might therefore rest tranquilly secure, certain
+ that we should not be disturbed.  To-morrow morning the kirangozi
+ has promised we shall be out of Uhha, and if we travel on to
+ Niamtaga, in Ukaranga, the same day, the next day would see us
+ in Ujiji.
+
+ Patience, my soul!  A few hours more, then the end of all this
+ will be known!  I shall be face to face with that "white man with
+ the white hairs on his face, whoever he is!"
+
+ November 9th.--Two hours before dawn we left our camp on the Sunuzzi
+ River, and struck through the forest in a north-by-west direction,
+ having muzzled our goats previously, lest, by their bleating, they
+ might betray us.  This was a mistake which might have ended
+ tragically, for just as the eastern sky began to assume a pale
+ greyish tint, we emerged from the jungle on the high road.  The
+ guide thought we had passed Uhha, and set up a shout which was
+ echoed by every member of the caravan, and marched onward with
+ new vigor and increased energy, when plump we came to the outskirts
+ of a village, the inhabitants of which were beginning to stir.
+ Silence was called for at once, and the Expedition halted
+ immediately.  I walked forward to the front to advise with the guide.
+ He did not know what to do.  There was no time to consider, so I
+ ordered the goats to be slaughtered and left on the road, and the
+ guide to push on boldly through the village.  The chickens also had
+ their throats cut; after which the Expedition resumed the march
+ quickly and silently, led by the guide, who had orders to plunge
+ into the jungle south of the road.  I stayed until the last man
+ had disappeared; then, after preparing my Winchester, brought up
+ the rear, followed by my gunbearers with their stock of ammunition.
+ As we were about disappearing beyond the last hut, a man darted out
+ of his hut, and uttered an exclamation of alarm, and loud voices
+ were heard as if in dispute.  But in a short time we were in the
+ depths of the jungle, hurrying away from the road in a southern
+ direction, and edging slightly westward.  Once I thought we were
+ pursued, and I halted behind a tree to check our foes if they
+ persisted in following us; but a few minutes proved to me that we
+ were not pursued, After half-an-hour's march we again turned our
+ faces westward.  It was broad daylight now, and our eyes were
+ delighted with most picturesque and sequestered little valleys,
+ where wild fruit-trees grew, and rare flowers blossomed, and
+ tiny brooks tumbled over polished pebbles--where all was bright
+ and beautiful--until, finally, wading through one pretty pure
+ streamlet, whose soft murmurs we took for a gentle welcome, we
+ passed the boundary of wicked Uhha, and had entered Ukaranga!--
+ an event that was hailed with extravagant shouts of joy.
+
+ Presently we found the smooth road, and we trod gaily with
+ elastic steps, with limbs quickened for the march which we all
+ knew to be drawing near its end.  What cared we now for the
+ difficulties we had encountered--for the rough and cruel forests,
+ for the thorny thickets and hurtful grass, for the jangle of all
+ savagedom, of which we had been the joyless audience!  To-morrow!
+ Ay, the great day draws nigh, and we may well laugh and sing while
+ in this triumphant mood.  We have been sorely tried; we have been
+ angry with each other when vexed by troubles, but we forget all
+ these now, and there is no face but is radiant with the happiness
+ we have all deserved.
+
+ We made a short halt at noon, for rest and refreshment.  I was
+ shown the hills from which the Tanganika could be seen, which
+ bounded the valley of the Liuche on the east.  I could not contain
+ myself at the sight of them.  Even with this short halt I was
+ restless and unsatisfied.  We resumed the march again.  I spurred
+ my men forward with the promise that to-morrow should see their reward.
+
+ We were in sight of the villages of the Wakaranga; the people
+ caught sight of us, and manifested considerable excitement.  I sent
+ men ahead to reassure them, and they came forward to greet us.  This
+ was so new and welcome to us, so different from the turbulent Wavinza
+ and the black-mailers of Uhha, that we were melted.  But we had
+ no time to loiter by the way to indulge our joy.  I was impelled onward
+ by my almost uncontrollable feelings.  I wished to resolve my doubts
+ and fears.  Was HE still there?  Had HE heard of my coming?  Would HE
+ fly?
+
+ How beautiful Ukaranga appears!  The green hills are crowned by
+ clusters of straw-thatched cones.  The hills rise and fall; here
+ denuded and cultivated, there in pasturage, here timbered, yonder
+ swarming with huts.  The country has somewhat the aspect of Maryland.
+
+ We cross the Mkuti, a glorious little river!  We ascend the opposite
+ bank, and stride through the forest like men who have done a deed
+ of which they may be proud.  We have already travelled nine hours,
+ and the sun is sinking rapidly towards the west; yet, apparently,
+ we are not fatigued.
+
+ We reach the outskirts of Niamtaga, and we hear drums beat.  The
+ people are flying into the woods; they desert their villages, for
+ they take us to be Ruga-Ruga--the forest thieves of Mirambo, who,
+ after conquering the Arabs of Unyanyembe, are coming to fight the
+ Arabs of Ujiji.  Even the King flies from his village, and every
+ man, woman, and child, terror-stricken, follows him.  We enter
+ into it and quietly take possession.  Finally, the word is bruited
+ about that we are Wangwana, from Unyanyembe.
+
+ "Well, then, is Mirambo dead?" they ask.
+
+ "No," we answer.
+
+ "Well, how did you come to Ukaranga?"
+
+ "By way of Ukonongo, Ukawendi, and Uhha."
+
+ " Oh--hi-le!" Then they laugh heartily at their fright, and begin
+ to make excuses.  The King is introduced to me, and he says he had
+ only gone to the woods in order to attack us again--he meant to have
+ come back and killed us all, if we had been Ruga-Ruga.  But then we
+ know the poor King was terribly frightened, and would never have
+ dared to return, had we been RugaRuga--not he.  We are not, however,
+ in a mood to quarrel with him about an idiomatic phrase peculiar
+ to him, but rather take him by the hand and shake it well, and say
+ we are so very glad to see him.  And he shares in our pleasure,
+ and immediately three of the fattest sheep, pots of beer, flour,
+ and honey are brought to us as a gift, and I make him happier still
+ with two of the finest cloths I have in my bales; and thus a
+ friendly pact is entered into between us.
+
+ While I write my Diary of this day's proceedings, I tell my
+ servant to lay out my new flannel suit, to oil my boots, to
+ chalk my helmet, and fold a new puggaree around it, that I may
+ make as presentable an appearance as possible before the white
+ man with the grey beard, and before the Arabs of Ujiji; for the
+ clothes I have worn through jungle and forest are in tatters.
+ Good-night; only let one day come again, and we shall see what
+ we shall see.
+
+ November 10th. Friday.--The 236th day from Bagamoyo on the Sea,
+ and the 51st day from Unyanyembe.  General direction to Ujiji,
+ west-by-south.  Time of march, six hours.
+
+ It is a happy, glorious morning.  The air is fresh and cool.
+ The sky lovingly smiles on the earth and her children.  The deep
+ woods are crowned in bright vernal leafage; the water of the Mkuti,
+ rushing under the emerald shade afforded by the bearded banks,
+ seems to challenge us for the race to Ujiji, with its continuous
+ brawl.
+
+ We are all outside the village cane fence, every man of us looking
+ as spruce, as neat, and happy as when we embarked on the dhows at
+ Zanzibar, which seems to us to have been ages ago--we have witnessed
+ and experienced so much.
+
+ "Forward!"
+
+ "Ay Wallah, ay Wallah, bana yango!" and the lighthearted braves
+ stride away at a rate which must soon bring us within view of
+ Ujiji.  We ascend a hill overgrown with bamboo, descend into a
+ ravine through which dashes an impetuous little torrent, ascend
+ another short hill, then, along a smooth footpath running across
+ the slope of a long ridge, we push on as only eager, lighthearted
+ men can do.
+
+ In two hours I am warned to prepare for a view of the Tanganika,
+ for, from the top of a steep mountain the kirangozi says I can see
+ it.  I almost vent the feeling of my heart in cries.  But wait, we
+ must behold it first.  And we press forward and up the hill
+ breathlessly, lest the grand scene hasten away.  We are at last on
+ the summit.  Ah! not yet can it be seen.  A little further on--just
+ yonder, oh! there it is--a silvery gleam.  I merely catch sight of
+ it between the trees, and--but here it is at last!  True--THE TANGANIKA!
+ and there are the blue-black mountains of Ugoma and Ukaramba.  An
+ immense broad sheet, a burnished bed of silver--lucid canopy of
+ blue above--lofty mountains are its valances, palm forests form its
+ fringes!  The Tanganika!--Hurrah! and the men respond to the
+ exultant cry of the Anglo-Saxon with the lungs of Stentors, and the
+ great forests and the hills seem to share in our triumph.
+
+ "Was this the place where Burton and Speke stood, Bombay, when they
+ saw the lake first?"
+
+ "I don't remember, master; it was somewhere about here, I think."
+
+ "Poor fellows!  The one was half-paralyzed, the other half-blind,"
+ said Sir Roderick Murchison, when he described Burton and Spoke's
+ arrival in view of the Tanganika.
+
+ And I?  Well, I am so happy that, were I quite paralyzed and
+ blinded, I think that at this supreme moment I could take up my
+ bed and walk, and all blindness would cease at once.  Fortunately,
+ however, I am quite well; I have not suffered a day's sickness
+ since the day I left Unyanyembe.  How much would Shaw be willing
+ to give to be in my place now?  Who is happiest--he revelling in
+ the luxuries of Unyanyembe, or I, standing on the summit of this
+ mountain, looking down with glad eyes and proud heart on the
+ Tanganika?
+
+ We are descending the western slope of the mountain, with the
+ valley of the Liuche before us.  Something like an hour before
+ noon we have gained the thick matete brake, which grows on both
+ banks of the river; we wade through the clear stream, arrive on
+ the other side, emerge out of the brake, and the gardens of the
+ Wajiji are around us--a perfect marvel of vegetable wealth.
+ Details escape my hasty and partial observation.  I am almost
+ overpowered with my own emotions.  I notice the graceful palms,
+ neat plots, green with vegetable plants, and small villages
+ surrounded with frail fences of the matete-cane.
+
+ We push on rapidly, lest the news of our coming might reach the
+ people of Ujiji before we come in sight, and are ready for them.
+ We halt at a little brook, then ascend the long slope of a naked
+ ridge, the very last of the myriads we have crossed.  This alone
+ prevents us from seeing the lake in all its vastness.  We arrive
+ at the summit, travel across and arrive at its western rim, and--
+ pause, reader--the port of Ujiji is below us, embowered in the
+ palms, only five hundred yards from us!
+
+ At this grand moment we do not think of the hundreds of miles we
+ have marched, or of the hundreds of hills that we have ascended
+ and descended, or of the many forests we have traversed, or of the
+ jungles and thickets that annoyed us, or of the fervid salt plains
+ that blistered our feet, or of the hot suns that scorched us, nor
+ of the dangers and difficulties, now happily surmounted!
+
+ At last the sublime hour has arrived;--our dreams, our hopes, and
+ anticipations are now about to be realised!  Our hearts and our
+ feelings are with our eyes, as we peer into the palms and try to
+ make out in which hut or house lives the "white man with the grey
+ beard" we heard about when we were at the Malagarazi.
+
+ "Unfurl the flags, and load your guns!"
+
+ "We will, master, we will, master!" respond the men eagerly.
+
+ "One, two, three,--fire!"
+
+ A volley from nearly fifty guns roars like a salute from a
+ battery of artillery : we shall note its effect presently on
+ the peaceful-looking village below.
+
+ "Now, kirangozi, hold the white man's flag up high, and let the
+ Zanzibar flag bring up the rear.  And you men keep close together,
+ and keep firing until we halt in the market-place, or before the
+ white man's house.  You have said to me often that you could smell
+ the fish of the Tanganika--I can smell the fish of the Tanganika
+ now.  There are fish, and beer, and a long rest waiting for you.
+ MARCH!"
+
+ Before we had gone a hundred yards our repeated volleys had the
+ effect desired.  We had awakened Ujiji to the knowledge that a
+ caravan was coming, and the people were witnessed rushing up in
+ hundreds to meet us.  The mere sight of the flags informed every
+ one immediately that we were a caravan, but the American flag
+ borne aloft by gigantic Asmani, whose face was one vast smile on
+ this day, rather staggered them at first.  However, many of the
+ people who now approached us, remembered the flag.  They had seen
+ it float above the American Consulate, and from the mast-head of
+ many a ship in the harbor of Zanzibar, and they were soon heard
+ welcoming the beautiful flag with cries of "Bindera Kisungu!"--a
+ white man's flag!  "Bindera Merikani!"--the American flag!
+
+ Then we were surrounded by them: by Wajiji, Wanyamwezi, Wangwana,
+ Warundi, Waguhha, Wamanyuema, and Arabs, and were almost
+ deafened with the shouts of "Yambo, yambo, bana!  Yambo, bana!
+ Yambo, bana!" To all and each of my men the welcome was given.
+
+ We were now about three hundred yards from the village of Ujiji,
+ and the crowds are dense about me.  Suddenly I hear a voice on
+ my right say,
+
+ "Good morning, sir!"
+
+ Startled at hearing this greeting in the midst of such a crowd of
+ black people, I turn sharply around in search of the man, and see
+ him at my side, with the blackest of faces, but animated and
+ joyous--a man dressed in a long white shirt, with a turban of
+ American sheeting around his woolly head, and I ask:
+
+ "Who the mischief are you?"
+
+ "I am Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone," said be, smiling,
+ and showing a gleaming row of teeth.
+
+ "What!  Is Dr. Livingstone here?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "In this village?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "Are you sure?"
+
+ "Sure, sure, sir.  Why, I leave him just now.""
+
+ "Good morning, sir," said another voice.
+
+ "Hallo," said I, "is this another one?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "Well, what is your name?"
+
+ "My name is Chumah, sir."
+
+ "What! are you Chumah, the friend of Wekotani?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "And is the-Doctor well?"
+
+ " Not very well, sir."
+
+ "Where has he been so long?"
+
+ "In Manyuema."
+
+ "Now, you Susi, run, and tell the Doctor I am coming."
+
+ "Yes, sir," and off he darted like a madman.
+
+ But by this time we were within two hundred yards of the village,
+ and the multitude was getting denser, and almost preventing our
+ march.  Flags and streamers were out; Arabs and Wangwana were
+ pushing their way through the natives in order to greet us, for
+ according to their account, we belonged to them.  But the great
+ wonder of all was, "How did you come from Unyanyembe?"
+
+ Soon Susi came running back, and asked me my name; he had told
+ the Doctor I was coming, but the Doctor was too surprised to believe
+ him, and when the Doctor asked him my name, Susi was rather staggered.
+
+ But, during Susi's absence, the news had been conveyed to the
+ Doctor that it was surely a white man that was coming, whose guns
+ were firing, and whose flag could be seen; and the great Arab
+ magnates of Ujiji--Mohammed bin Sali, Sayd bin Majid, Abid bin
+ Suliman, Mohammed bin Gharib, and others--had gathered together
+ before the Doctor's house, and the Doctor had come out from his
+ veranda to discuss the matter and await my arrival.
+
+ In the meantime, the head of the Expedition had halted, and the
+ kirangozi was out of the ranks, holding his flag aloft, and Selim
+ said to me, "I see the Doctor, sir.  Oh, what an old man!  He has
+ got a white beard."  And I--what would I not have given for a bit
+ of friendly wilderness, where, unseen, I might vent my joy in some
+ mad freak, such as idiotically biting my hand; turning a somersault,
+ or slashing at trees, in order to allay those exciting feelings
+ that were well-nigh uncontrollable.  My heart beats fast, but I must
+ not let my face betray my emotions, lest it shall detract from the
+ dignity of a white man appearing under such extraordinary circumstances.
+
+ So I did that which I thought was most dignified.  I pushed back
+ the crowds, and, passing from the rear, walked down a living avenue
+ of people, until I came in front of the semicircle of Arabs, before
+ which stood the "white man with the grey beard."
+
+ As I advanced slowly towards him I noticed he was pale, that he
+ looked wearied and wan, that he had grey whiskers and moustache,
+ that he wore a bluish cloth cap with a faded gold band on a red
+ ground round it, and that he had on a red-sleeved waistcoat, and a
+ pair of grey tweed trousers.
+
+ I would have run to him, only I was a coward in the presence of
+ such a mob--would have embraced him, but that I did not know how
+ he would receive me; so I did what moral cowardice and false pride
+ suggested was the best thing--walked deliberately to him, took off
+ my hat, and said:
+
+ "DR. LIVINGSTONE, I PRESUME?"
+
+ "Yes," said he, with a kind, cordial smile, lifting his cap slightly.
+
+ I replaced my hat on my head, and he replaced his cap, and we
+ both grasped hands.  I then said aloud:
+
+ "I thank God, Doctor, I have been permitted to see you."
+
+ He answered, "I feel thankful that I am here to welcome you."
+
+ I turned to the Arabs, took off my hat to them in response to the
+ saluting chorus of "Yambos" I received, and the Doctor introduced
+ them to me by name.  Then, oblivious of the crowds, oblivious of
+ the men who shared with me my dangers, we--Livingstone and I--
+ turned our faces towards his house.  He pointed to the veranda,
+ or rather, mud platform, under the broad overhanging eaves; he
+ pointed to his own particular seat, which I saw his age and
+ experience in Africa had suggested, namely, a straw mat, with a
+ goatskin over it, and another skin nailed against the wall to
+ protect his back from contact with the cold mud.  I protested
+ against taking this seat, which so much more befitted him than I,
+ but the Doctor would not yield: I must take it.
+
+ We were seated--the Doctor and I--with our backs to the wall.
+ The Arabs took seats on our left.  More than a thousand natives
+ were in our front, filling the whole square densely, indulging
+ their curiosity, and discussing the fact of two white men meeting
+ at Ujiji--one just come from Manyuema, in the west, the other from
+ Unyanyembe, in the east.
+
+ Conversation began.  What about?  I declare I have forgotten.
+ Oh! we mutually asked questions of one another, such as
+ "How did you come here?" and "Where have you been all this long
+ time?--the world has believed you to be dead.  "Yes, that was the
+ way it began: but whatever the Doctor informed me, and that which
+ I communicated to him, I cannot correctly report, for I found myself
+ gazing at him, conning the wonderful figure and face of the man at
+ whose side I now sat in Central Africa.  Every hair of his head
+ and beard, every wrinkle of his face, the wanness of his features,
+ and the slightly wearied look he wore, were all imparting
+ intelligence to me--the knowledge I craved for so much ever since
+ I heard the words, "Take what you want, but find Livingstone."
+ What I saw was deeply interesting intelligence to me, and unvarnished
+ truth.  I was listening and reading at the same time.  What did these
+ dumb witnesses relate to me?
+
+ Oh, reader, had you been at my side on this day in Ujiji, how
+ eloquently could be told the nature of this man's work!  Had you
+ been there but to see and hear!  His lips gave me the details; lips
+ that never lie.  I cannot repeat what he said; I was too much
+ engrossed to take my note-book out, and begin to stenograph his story.
+ He had so much to say that he began at the end, seemingly oblivious
+ of the fact that five or six years had to be accounted for.  But his
+ account was oozing out; it was growing fast into grand proportions--
+ into a most marvellous history of deeds.
+
+ The Arabs rose up, with a delicacy I approved, as if they intuitively
+ knew that we ought to be left to ourselves.  I sent Bombay with them
+ to give them the news they also wanted so much to know about the
+ affairs at Unyanyembe.  Sayd bin Majid was the father of the gallant
+ young man whom I saw at Masangi, and who fought with me at Zimbizo,
+ and who soon afterwards was killed by Mirambo's Ruga-Ruga in the
+ forest of Wilyankuru; and, knowing that I had been there, he
+ earnestly desired to hear the tale of the fight; but they had all
+ friends at Unyanyembe, and it was but natural that they should be
+ anxious to hear of what concerned them.
+
+ After giving orders to Bombay and Asmani for the provisioning of
+ the men of the Expedition, I called "Kaif-Halek," or "How-do-ye-do,"
+ and introduced him to Dr. Livingstone as one of the soldiers in
+ charge of certain goods left at Unyanyembe, whom I had compelled
+ to accompany me to Ujiji, that he might deliver in person to his
+ master the letter-bag with which he had been entrusted.  This was
+ that famous letter-bag marked "Nov. 1st, 1870," which was now
+ delivered into the Doctor's hands 365 days after it left Zanzibar!
+ How long, I wonder, had it remained at Unyanyembe had I not been
+ despatched into Central Africa in search of the great traveller?
+
+ The Doctor kept the letter-bag on his knee, then, presently, opened
+ it, looked at the letters contained there, and read one or two of
+ his children's letters, his face in the meanwhile lighting up.
+
+ He asked me to tell him the news.  "No, Doctor," said I, "read your
+ letters first, which I am sure you must be impatient to read."
+
+ "Ah," said he, "I have waited years for letters, and I have been
+ taught patience.  I can surely afford to wait a few hours longer.
+ No, tell me the general news: how is the world getting along?
+
+ "You probably know much already.  Do you know that the Suez Canal
+ is a fact--is opened, and a regular trade carried on between Europe
+ and India through it?"
+
+ "I did not hear about the opening of it.  Well, that is grand news!
+ What else?"
+
+ Shortly I found myself enacting the part of an annual periodical
+ to him.  There was no need of exaggeration of any penny-a-line
+ news, or of any sensationalism.  The world had witnessed and
+ experienced much the last few years.  The Pacific Railroad had been
+ completed <1869>; Grant had been elected President of the United States;
+ Egypt had been flooded with savans: the Cretan rebellion had
+ terminated <1866-1868>; a Spanish revolution had driven Isabella
+ from the throne of Spain, and a Regent had been appointed: General
+ Prim was assassinated; a Castelar had electrified Europe with his
+ advanced ideas upon the liberty of worship; Prussia had humbled Denmark,
+ and annexed Schleswig-Holstein <1864>, and her armies were now around
+ Paris; the "Man of Destiny" was a prisoner at Wilhelmshohe;
+ the Queen of Fashion and the Empress of the French was a fugitive;
+ and the child born in the purple had lost for ever the Imperial
+ crown intended for his head; the Napoleon dynasty was extinguished
+ by the Prussians, Bismarck and Von Moltke; and France, the proud
+ empire, was humbled to the dust.
+
+ What could a man have exaggerated of these facts?  What a budget
+ of news it was to one who had emerged from the depths of the
+ primeval forests of Manyuema!  The reflection of the dazzling
+ light of civilisation was cast on him while Livingstone was thus
+ listening in wonder to one of the most exciting pages of history
+ ever repeated.  How the puny deeds of barbarism paled before
+ these!  Who could tell under what new phases of uneasy life Europe
+ was labouring even then, while we, two of her lonely children,
+ rehearsed the tale of her late woes and glories?  More worthily,
+ perhaps, had the tongue of a lyric Demodocus recounted them; but,
+ in the absence of the poet, the newspaper correspondent performed
+ his part as well and truthfully as he could.
+
+ Not long after the Arabs had departed, a dishful of hot hashed-meat
+ cakes was sent to us by Sayd bin Majid, and a curried chicken was
+ received from Mohammed bin Sali, and Moeni Kheri sent a dishful of
+ stewed goat-meat and rice; and thus presents of food came in
+ succession, and as fast as they were brought we set to.  I had a
+ healthy, stubborn digestion--the exercise I had taken had put it in
+ prime order; but Livingstone--he had been complaining that he had
+ no appetite, that his stomach refused everything but a cup of tea
+ now and then--he ate also--ate like a vigorous, hungry man; and,
+ as he vied with me in demolishing the pancakes, he kept repeating,
+ "You have brought me new life.  You have brought me new life."
+
+ "Oh, by George!" I said, "I have forgotten something.  Hasten,
+ Selim, and bring that bottle; you know which and bring me the silver
+ goblets.  I brought this bottle on purpose for this event, which
+ I hoped would come to pass, though often it seemed useless to expect
+ it."
+
+ Selim knew where the bottle was, and he soon returned with it--a
+ bottle of Sillery champagne; and, handing the Doctor a silver
+ goblet brimful of the exhilarating wine, and pouring a small
+ quantity into my own, I said,
+
+ "Dr. Livingstone, to your very good health, sir."
+
+ "And to yours!" he responded, smilingly.
+
+ And the champagne I had treasured for this happy meeting was drunk
+ with hearty good wishes to each other.
+
+ But we kept on talking and talking, and prepared food was being
+ brought to us all that afternoon; and we kept on eating each time
+ it was brought, until I had eaten even to repletion, and the Doctor
+ was obliged to confess that he had eaten enough.  Still, Halimah,
+ the female cook of the Doctor's establishment, was in a state of
+ the greatest excitement.  She had been protruding her head out of
+ the cookhouse to make sure that there were really two white men
+ sitting down in the veranda, when there used to be only one, who
+ would not, because he could not, eat anything; and she had been
+ considerably exercised in her mind about this fact.  She was
+ afraid the Doctor did not properly appreciate her culinary
+ abilities; but now she was amazed at the extraordinary quantity
+ of food eaten, and she was in a state of delightful excitement.
+ We could hear her tongue rolling off a tremendous volume of
+ clatter to the wondering crowds who halted before the kitchen
+ to hear the current of news with which she edified them.  Poor,
+ faithful soul!  While we listened to the noise of her furious
+ gossip, the Doctor related her faithful services, and the
+ terrible anxiety she evinced when the guns first announced
+ the  arrival of another white man in Ujiji; how she had been
+ flying about in a state cf the utmost excitement, from the kitchen
+ into his presence, and out again into the square, asking all sorts
+ of questions; how she was in despair at the scantiness of the
+ general larder and treasury of the strange household; how she
+ was anxious to make up for their poverty by a grand appearance--
+ to make up a sort of Barmecide feast to welcome the white man.
+ "Why," said she, "is he not one of us?  Does he not bring plenty
+ of cloth and beads?  Talk about the Arabs!  Who are they that
+ they should be compared to white men?  Arabs, indeed!"
+
+ The Doctor and I conversed upon many things, especially upon his
+ own immediate troubles, and his disappointments, upon his arrival
+ in Ujiji, when told that all his goods had been sold, and he was
+ reduced to poverty.  He had but twenty cloths or so left of the
+ stock he had deposited with the man called Sherif, the half-caste
+ drunken tailor, who was sent by the Consul in charge of the goods.
+ Besides which he had been suffering from an attack of dysentery,
+ and his condition was most deplorable.  He was but little improved
+ on this day, though he had eaten well, and already began to feel
+ stronger and better.
+
+ This day, like all others, though big with happiness to me, at last
+ was fading away.  While sitting with our faces looking to the east,
+ as Livingstone had been sitting for days preceding my arrival, we
+ noted the dark shadows which crept up above the grove of palms
+ beyond the village, and above the rampart of mountains which we had
+ crossed that day, now looming through the fast approaching
+ darkness; and we listened, with our hearts full of gratitude to
+ the Great Giver of Good and Dispenser of all Happiness, to the
+ sonorous thunder of the surf of the Tanganika, and to the chorus
+ which the night insects sang.  Hours passed, and we were still
+ sitting there with our minds busy upon the day's remarkable events,
+ when I remembered that the traveller had not yet read his letters.
+
+ "Doctor," I said, "you had better read your letters.  I will not
+ keep you up any longer."
+
+ "Yes," he answered, "it is getting late; and I will go and read
+ my friends' letters.  Good-night, and God bless you."
+
+ "Good-night, my dear Doctor; and let me hope that your news will
+ be such as you desire."
+
+ I have now related, by means of my Diary, "How I found Livingstone,"
+ as recorded on the evening of that great day.  I have been averse
+ to reduce it by process of excision and suppression, into a mere
+ cold narrative, because, by so doing, I would be unable to record
+ what feelings swayed each member of the Expedition as well as myself
+ during the days preceding the discovery of the lost traveller, and
+ more especially the day it was the good fortune of both Livingstone
+ and myself to clasp each other's hands in the strong friendship
+ which was born in that hour we thus strangely met.  The aged
+ traveller, though cruelly belied, contrary to all previous expectation,
+ received me as a friend; and the cordial warmth with which he accepted
+ my greeting; the courtesy with which he tendered to me a shelter
+ in his own house; the simple candour of his conversation; graced
+ by unusual modesty of manner, and meekness of spirit, wrought in me
+ such a violent reaction in his favor, that when the parting
+ "good-night" was uttered, I felt a momentary vague fear lest the
+ fulness of joy which I experienced that evening would be diminished
+ by some envious fate, before the morrow's sun should rise above Ujiji.
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER XII.   INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE AT UJIJI--
+LIVINGSTONE'S OWN STORY OF HIS JOURNEYS,
+HIS TROUBLES, AND DISAPPOINTMENTS.
+
+ "If there is love between us, inconceivably delicious, and
+ profitable will our intercourse be; if not, your time is lost,
+ and you will only annoy me.  I shall seem to you stupid, and the
+ reputation I have false.  All my good is magnetic, and I educate
+ not by lessons, but by going about my business."--Emerson's
+ 'Representative Men'.
+
+
+ I woke up early next morning with a sudden start.  The room was
+ strange!  It was a house, and not my tent!  Ah, yes! I recollected
+ I had discovered Livingstone, and I was in his house.  I listened,
+ that the knowledge dawning on me might be confirmed by the sound
+ of his voice.  I heard nothing but the sullen roar of the surf.
+
+ I lay quietly in bed.  Bed!  Yes, it was a primitive four-poster,
+ with the leaves of the palm-tree spread upon it instead of down,
+ and horsehair and my bearskin spread over this serving me in place
+ of linen.  I began to put myself under rigid mental cross-examination,
+and to an analyzation of my position.
+
+"What was I sent for?"
+
+"To find Livingstone."
+
+"Have you found him?"
+
+"Yes, of course; am I not in his house?  Whose compass is that
+hanging on a peg there?  Whose clothes, whose boots, are those?
+Who reads those newspapers, those 'Saturday  Reviews' and numbers
+of 'Punch' lying on the floor?"
+
+"Well, what are you going to do now?"
+
+"I shall tell him this morning who sent me, and what brought me
+here.  I will then ask him to write a letter to Mr. Bennett, and
+to give what news he can spare.  I did not come here to rob him of
+his news.  Sufficient for me is it that I have found him.  It is a
+complete success so far.  But it will be a greater one if he gives
+me letters for Mr. Bennett, and an acknowledgment that he has seen
+me."
+
+"Do you think he will do so?"
+
+"Why not?  I have come here to do him a service.  He has no goods.
+I have.  He has no men with him.  I have.  If I do a friendly part
+by  him, will he not do a friendly part by me?  What says the poet?--
+
+         Nor hope to find
+A friend, but who has found a friend in thee.
+All like the purchase; few the price will pay
+And this makes friends such wonders here below.
+
+I have paid the purchase, by coming so far to do him a service.
+But I think, from what I have seen of him last night, that he is
+not such a niggard and misanthrope as I was led to believe.  He
+exhibited considerable emotion, despite the monosyllabic greeting,
+when he shook my hand.  If he were a man to feel annoyance at any
+person coming after him, he would not have received me as he did,
+nor would he ask me to live with him, but he would have surlily
+refused to see me, and told me to mind my own business.  Neither
+does he mind my nationality;
+for 'here,' said he, 'Americans and Englishmen are the same
+people.  We speak the same language and have the same ideas.'
+Just so, Doctor; I agree with you.  Here at least, Americans
+and Englishmen shall be brothers, and, whatever I can do
+for you, you may command me freely."
+
+I dressed myself quietly, intending to take a stroll along the
+Tanganika before the Doctor should rise; opened the door, which
+creaked horribly  on its hinges, and walked out to the veranda.
+
+"Halloa, Doctor!--you up already?  I hope you have slept well? "
+
+"Good-morning, Mr. Stanley!  I am glad to see you.  I hope you
+rested well.  I sat up late reading my  letters.  You have brought
+me good and bad news.  But sit down.  "He made a place for me by
+his side.  "Yes, many of my  friends are dead.  My eldest son has
+met with a sad accident--that is, my boy Tom; my second son, Oswell,
+is at college studying medicine, and is doing well I am told.  Agnes,
+my eldest daughter, has been enjoying herself in a yacht, with `Sir
+Paraffine'  Young and his family.  Sir Roderick, also, is well, and
+expresses a hope that he will soon see me.  You have brought me
+quite a budget."
+
+The man was not an apparition, then, and yesterday's scenes were
+not the result of a dream! and I gazed on him intently, for thus
+I was assured he had not run away, which was the great fear that
+constantly haunted me as I was journeying to Ujiji.
+
+"Now, Doctor," said I, "you are, probably, wondering why I came
+here?"
+
+"It is true," said he; "I have been wondering.  I thought you,
+at first, an emissary of the French Government, in the place of
+Lieutenant Le Saint, who died a few miles above Gondokoro.  I heard
+you had boats, plenty of men, and stores, and I really believed
+you were some French officer, until I saw the American flag; and,
+to tell you the truth, I was rather glad it was so, because I could
+not have talked to him in French; and if he did not know English,
+we had been a pretty pair of white men in Ujiji!  I did not like
+to ask you yesterday, because I thought it was none of my business."
+
+Well," said I, laughing, "for your sake I am glad that I am an
+American, and not a Frenchman, and that we can understand each
+other perfectly without an interpreter.  I see that the Arabs are
+wondering that you, an Englishman, and I, an American, understand
+each other.  We must take care not to tell them that the English
+and Americans have fought, and that there are `Alabama' claims left
+unsettled, and that we have such people as Fenians in America, who
+hate you.  But, seriously, Doctor--now don't be frightened when I
+tell you that I have come after--YOU!"
+
+"After me?"
+
+"Yes."
+
+"How?"
+
+"Well.  You have heard of the `New York Herald?'"
+
+"Oh--who has not heard of that newspaper?"
+
+"Without his father's knowledge or consent, Mr. James Gordon Bennett,
+son of Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the `Herald,' has
+commissioned me to find you--to get whatever news of your discoveries
+you like to give--and to assist you, if I can, with means."
+
+"Young Mr. Bennett told you to come after me, to find me out,
+and help me!  It is no wonder, then, you praised Mr. Bennett so
+much last night."
+
+"I know him--I am proud to say--to be just what I say he is.
+He is an ardent, generous, and true man."
+
+"Well, indeed!  I am very much obliged to him; and it makes me
+feel proud to think that you Americans think so much of me.  You
+have just come in the proper time; for I was beginning to think
+that I should have to beg from the Arabs.  Even they are in want
+of cloth, and there are but few beads in Ujiji.  That fellow Sherif
+has robbed me of all.  I wish I could embody my thanks to Mr. Bennett
+in suitable words; but if I fail to do so, do not, I beg of you,
+believe me the less grateful."
+
+"And now, Doctor, having disposed of this little affair, Ferajji
+shall bring breakfast; if you have no objection."
+
+"You have given me an appetite," he said.
+
+"Halimah is my cook, but she never can tell the difference between
+tea and coffee."
+
+Ferajji, the cook, was ready as usual with excellent tea, and a
+dish of smoking cakes; "dampers," as the Doctor called them.  I
+never did care much for this kind of a cake fried in a pan, but
+they were necessary to the Doctor, who had nearly lost all his
+teeth from the hard fare of Lunda.  He had been compelled to
+subsist on green ears of Indian corn; there was no meat in that
+district; and the effort to gnaw at the corn ears had loosened all
+his teeth.  I preferred the corn scones of Virginia, which, to my
+mind, were the nearest approach to palatable bread obtainable in
+Central Africa.
+
+The Doctor said he had thought me a most luxurious and rich man,
+when he saw my great bath-tub carried on the shoulders of one of
+my men; but he thought me still more luxurious this morning, when
+my knives and forks, and plates, and cups, saucers, silver spoons,
+and silver teapot were brought forth shining and bright, spread on
+a rich Persian carpet, and observed that I was well attended to by
+my yellow and ebon Mercuries.
+
+This was the beginning of our life at Ujiji.  I knew him not as
+a friend before my arrival.  He was only an object to me--a great
+item for a daily newspaper, as much as other subjects in which the
+voracious news-loving public delight in.  I had gone over
+battlefields, witnessed revolutions, civil wars, rebellions,
+emeutes and massacres; stood close to the condemned murderer to
+record his last struggles and last sighs; but never had I been
+called to record anything that moved me so much as this man's woes
+and sufferings, his privations and disappointments, which now were
+poured into my ear.  Verily did I begin to perceive that "the
+Gods above do with just eyes survey the affairs of men."  I began
+to recognize the hand of an overruling and kindly Providence.
+
+The following are singular facts worthy for reflection.  I was,
+commissioned for the duty of discovering Livingstone sometime in
+October, 1869.  Mr. Bennett was ready with the money, and I was
+ready for the journey.  But, observe, reader, that I did not
+proceed directly upon the search mission.  I had many tasks to
+fulfil before proceeding with it, and many thousand miles to
+travel over.  Supposing that I had gone direct to Zanzibar from
+Paris, seven or eight months afterwards, perhaps, I should have
+found myself at Ujiji, but Livingstone would not have been found
+there then; he was on the Lualaba; and I should have had to
+follow him on his devious tracks through the primeval forests of
+Manyuema, and up along the crooked course of the Lualaba for
+hundreds of miles.  The time taken by me in travelling up the
+Nile, back to Jerusalem, then to Constantinople, Southern Russia,
+the Caucasus, and Persia, was employed by Livingstone in fruitful
+discoveries west of the Tanganika.  Again, consider that I arrived
+at Unyanyembe in the latter part of June, and that owing to a war I
+was delayed three months at Unyanyembe, leading a fretful, peevish
+and impatient life.  But while I was thus fretting myself, and
+being delayed by a series of accidents, Livingstone was being forced
+back to Ujiji in the same month.  It took him from June to October
+to march to Ujiji.  Now, in September, I broke loose from the
+thraldom which accident had imposed on me, and hurried southward
+to Ukonongo, then westward to Kawendi, then northward to Uvinza,
+then westward to Ujiji, only about three weeks after the Doctor's
+arrival, to find him resting under the veranda of his house with
+his face turned eastward, the direction from which I was coming.
+Had I gone direct from Paris on the search I might have lost him;
+had I been enabled to have gone direct to Ujiji from Unyanyembe
+I might have lost him.
+
+The days came and went peacefully and happily, under the palms of
+Ujiji.  My companion was improving in health and spirits.  Life
+had been brought back to him; his fading vitality was restored,
+his enthusiasm for his work was growing up again into a height
+that was compelling him to desire to be up and doing.  But what
+could he do, with five men and fifteen or twenty cloths?
+
+"Have you seen the northern head of the Tangannka, Doctor?" I
+asked one day.
+
+"No; I did try to go there, but the Wajiji were doing their best
+to fleece me, as they did both Burton and Speke, and I had not a
+great deal of cloth.  If I had gone to the head of the Tanganika,
+I could not have gone, to Manyuema.  The central line of drainage
+was the most important, and that is the Lualaba.  Before this line
+the question whether there is a connection between the Tanganika
+and the Albert N'Yanza sinks into insignificance.  The great line
+of drainage is the river flowing from latitude 11 degrees south,
+which I followed for over seven degrees northward.  The Chambezi,
+the name given to its most southern extremity, drains a large tract
+of country south of the southernmost source of the Tanganika;
+it must, therefore, be the most important.  I have not the least
+doubt, myself, but that this lake is the Upper Tanganika, and
+the Albert N'Yanza of Baker is the Lower Tanganika, which are
+connected by a river flowing from the upper to the lower.  This
+is my belief, based upon reports of the Arabs, and a test I
+made of the flow with water-plants.  But I really never gave
+it much thought."
+
+"Well, if I were you, Doctor, before leaving Ujiji, I should
+explore it, and resolve the doubts upon the subject; lest,
+after you leave here, you should not return by this way.
+The Royal Geographical Society attach much importance to
+this supposed connection, and declare you are the only man
+who can settle it.  If I can be of any service to you, you
+may command me.  Though I did not come to Africa as an
+explorer, I have a good deal of curiosity upon the subject,
+and should be willing to accompany you.  I have with me about
+twenty men who understand rowing we have plenty of guns, cloth,
+and beads; and if we can get a canoe from the Arabs we can
+manage the thing easily."
+
+"Oh, we can get a canoe from Sayd bin Majid.  This man has been
+very kind to me, and if ever there was an Arab gentleman, he is
+one."
+
+"Then it is settled, is it, that we go?"
+
+"I am ready, whenever you are."
+
+"I am at your command.  Don't you hear my men call you the
+`Great Master,' and me the `Little Master?' It would never
+do for the `Little Master' to command."
+
+By this time Livingstone was becoming known to me.  I defy any
+one to be in his society long without thoroughly fathoming him,
+for in him there is no guile, and what is apparent on the surface
+is the thing that is in him.  I simply write down my own opinion
+of the man as I have seen him, not as he represents himself; as
+I know him to be, not as I have heard of him.  I lived with him
+from the 10th November, 1871, to the 14th March, 1872; witnessed
+his conduct in the camp, and on the march, and my feelings for
+him are those of unqualified admiration.  The camp is the best
+place to discover a man's weaknesses, where, if he is flighty
+or wrong-headed, he is sure to develop his hobbies and weak side.
+I think it possible, however, that Livingstone, with an
+unsuitable companion, might feel annoyance.  I know I should do
+so very readily, if a man's character was of that oblique
+nature that it was an impossibility to travel in his company.
+I have seen men, in whose company I felt nothing but a thraldom,
+which it was a duty to my own self-respect to cast off as soon
+as possible; a feeling of utter incompatibility, with whose
+nature mine could never assimilate.  But Livingstone was a
+character that I venerated, that called forth all my enthusiasm,
+that evoked nothing but sincerest admiration.
+
+Dr. Livingstone is about sixty years old, though after he was
+restored to health he appeared more like a man who had not passed
+his fiftieth year.  His hair has a brownish colour yet, but is here
+and there streaked with grey lines over the temples; his whiskers
+and moustache are very grey.  He shaves his chin daily.  His eyes,
+which are hazel, are remarkably bright; he has a sight keen as a
+hawk's.  His teeth alone indicate the weakness of age; the hard
+fare of Lunda has made havoc in their lines.  His form, which
+soon assumed a stoutish appearance, is a little over the ordinary
+height with the slightest possible bow in the shoulders.  When
+walking he has a firm but heavy tread, like that of an overworked
+or fatigued man.  He is accustomed to wear a naval cap with a
+semicircular peak, by which he has been identified throughout
+Africa.  His dress, when first I saw him, exhibited traces of
+patching and repairing, but was scrupulously clean.
+
+I was led to believe that Livingstone possessed a splenetic,
+misanthropic temper; some have said that he is garrulous, that
+he is demented; that he has utterly changed from the David
+Livingstone whom people knew as the reverend missionary ; that
+he takes no notes or observations but such as those which no other
+person could read but himself; and it was reported, before I
+proceeded to Central Africa, that he was married to an African
+princess.
+
+I respectfully beg to differ with all and each of the above
+statements.  I grant he is not an angel, but he approaches to that
+being as near as the nature of a living man will allow.  I never
+saw any spleen or misanthropy in him--as for being garrulous, Dr.
+Livingstone is quite the reverse: he is reserved, if anything;
+and to the man who says Dr. Livingstone is changed, all I can say
+is, that he never could have known him, for it is notorious that
+the Doctor has a fund of quiet humour, which he exhibits at all
+times whenever he is among friends.  I must also beg leave to
+correct the gentleman who informed me that Livingstone takes
+no notes or observations.  The huge Letts's Diary which I
+carried home to his daughter is full of notes, and there are
+no less than a score of sheets within it filled with observations
+which he took during the last trip he made to Manyuema alone;
+and in the middle of the book there is sheet after sheet,
+column after column, carefully written, of figures alone.
+A large letter which I received from him has been sent to
+Sir Thomas MacLear, and this contains nothing but observations.
+During the four months I was with him, I noticed him every evening
+making most careful notes; and a large tin box that he has with
+him contains numbers of field note-books, the contents of which I
+dare say will see the light some time.  His maps also evince great
+care and industry.  As to the report of his African marriage, it is
+unnecessary to say more than that it is untrue, and it is utterly
+beneath a gentleman to hint at such a thing in connection with the
+name of David Livingstone.
+
+There is a good-natured abandon about Livingstone which was not
+lost on me.  Whenever he began to laugh, there was a contagion
+about it, that compelled me to imitate him.  It was such a laugh
+as Herr Teufelsdrockh's--a laugh of the whole man from head to heel.
+If he told a story, he related it in such a way as to convince one
+of its truthfulness; his face was so lit up by the sly fun it
+contained, that I was sure the story was worth relating, and
+worth listening to.
+
+The wan features which had shocked me at first meeting, the heavy
+step which told of age and hard travel, the grey beard and bowed
+shoulders, belied the man.  Underneath that well-worn exterior
+lay an endless fund of high spirits and inexhaustible humour;
+that rugged frame of his enclosed a young and most exuberant soul.
+Every day I heard innumerable jokes and pleasant anecdotes;
+interesting hunting stories, in which his friends Oswell, Webb,
+Vardon, and Gorden Cumming were almost always the chief actors.
+I was not sure, at first, but this joviality, humour, and
+abundant animal spirits were the result of a joyous hysteria;
+but as I found they continued while I was with him, I am obliged
+to think them natural.
+
+Another thing which specially attracted my attention was his
+wonderfully retentive memory.  If we remember the many years he
+has spent in Africa, deprived of books, we may well think it an
+uncommon memory that can recite whole poems from Byron, Burns,
+Tennyson, Longfellow, Whittier, and Lowell.  The reason of this
+may be found, perhaps, in the fact, that he has lived all his
+life almost, we may say, within himself.  Zimmerman, a great
+student of human nature, says on this subject "The unencumbered
+mind recalls all that it has read, all that pleased the eye,
+and delighted the ear; and reflecting on every idea which
+either observation, or experience, or discourse has produced,
+gains new information by every reflection.  The intellect
+contemplates all the former scenes of life; views by
+anticipation those that are yet to come; and blends all ideas
+of past and future in the actual enjoyment of the present
+moment."  He has lived in a world which revolved inwardly,
+out of which he seldom awoke except to attend to the immediate
+practical necessities of himself and people; then relapsed again
+into the same happy inner world, which he must have peopled with
+his own friends, relations, acquaintances, familiar readings,
+ideas, and associations; so that wherever he might be, or by
+whatsoever he was surrounded, his own world always possessed
+more attractions to his cultured mind than were yielded by
+external circumstances.
+
+The study of Dr. Livingstone would not be complete if we did not
+take the religious side of his character into consideration.  His
+religion is not of the theoretical kind, but it is a constant,
+earnest, sincere practice.  It is neither demonstrative nor loud,
+but manifests itself in a quiet, practical way, and is always at
+work.  It is not aggressive, which sometimes is troublesome, if
+not impertinent.  In him, religion exhibits its loveliest features;
+it governs his conduct not only towards his servants, but towards
+the natives, the bigoted Mohammedans, and all who come in contact
+with him.  Without it, Livingstone, with his ardent temperament,
+his enthusiasm, his high spirit and courage, must have become
+uncompanionable, and a hard master.  Religion has tamed him, and
+made him a Christian gentleman: the crude and wilful have been
+refined and subdued; religion has made him the most companionable
+of men and indulgent of masters--a man whose society is pleasurable.
+
+In Livingstone I have seen many amiable traits.  His gentleness
+never forsakes him; his hopefulness never deserts him.  No
+harassing anxieties, distraction of mind, long separation from home
+and kindred, can make him complain.  He thinks "all will come out
+right at last;" he has such faith in the goodness of Providence.
+The sport of adverse circumstances, the plaything of the miserable
+beings sent to him from Zanzibar--he has been baffled and
+worried, even almost to the grave, yet he will not desert the
+charge imposed upon him by his friend, Sir Roderick Murchison.
+To the stern dictates of duty, alone, has he sacrificed his home
+and ease, the pleasures, refinements, and luxuries of civilized
+life.  His is the Spartan heroism, the inflexibility of the Roman,
+the enduring resolution of the Anglo-Saxon--never to relinquish his
+work, though his heart yearns for home; never to surrender his
+obligations until he can write Finis to his work.
+
+But you may take any point in Dr. Livingstone's character, and
+analyse it carefully, and I would challenge any man to find a
+fault in it.  He is sensitive, I know; but so is any man of a high
+mind and generous nature.  He is sensitive on the point of being
+doubted or being criticised.  An extreme love of truth is one of
+his strongest characteristics, which proves him to be a man of
+strictest principles, and conscientious scruples; being such, he
+is naturally sensitive, and shrinks from any attacks on the
+integrity of his observations, and the accuracy of his reports.
+He is conscious of having laboured in the course of geography and
+science with zeal and industry, to have been painstaking, and as
+exact as circumstances would allow.  Ordinary critics seldom take
+into consideration circumstances, but, utterly regardless of the
+labor expended in obtaining the least amount of geographical
+information in a new land, environed by inconceivable dangers and
+difficulties, such as Central Africa presents, they seem to take
+delight in rending to tatters, and reducing to nil, the fruits of
+long years of labor, by sharply-pointed shafts of ridicule and
+sneers.
+
+Livingstone no doubt may be mistaken in some of his conclusions
+about certain points in the geography of Central Africa, but he
+is not so dogmatic and positive a man as to refuse conviction.
+He certainly demands, when arguments in contra are used in
+opposition to him, higher authority than abstract theory.  His
+whole life is a testimony against its unreliability, and his
+entire labor of years were in vain if theory can be taken in
+evidence against personal observation and patient investigation.
+
+The reluctance he manifests to entertain suppositions,
+possibilities regarding the nature, form, configuration of concrete
+immutable matter like the earth, arises from the fact, that a man
+who commits himself to theories about such an untheoretical subject
+as Central Africa is deterred from bestirring himself to prove them
+by the test of exploration.  His opinion of such a man is, that he
+unfits himself for his duty, that he is very likely to become a
+slave to theory--a voluptuous fancy, which would master him.
+
+It is his firm belief, that a man who rests his sole knowledge of
+the geography of Africa on theory, deserves to be discredited.  It
+has been the fear of being discredited and criticised and so made
+to appear before the world as a man who spent so many valuable
+years in Africa for the sake of burdening the geographical mind
+with theory that has detained him so long in Africa, doing his
+utmost to test the value of the main theory which clung to him,
+and would cling to him until he proved or disproved it.
+
+This main theory is his belief that in the broad and mighty
+Lualaba he has discovered the head waters of the Nile.  His grounds
+for believing this are of such nature and weight as to compel him
+to despise the warning that years are advancing on him, and his
+former iron constitution is failing.  He believes his speculations
+on this point will be verified; he believes he is strong enough
+to pursue his explorations until he can return to his country,
+with the announcement that the Lualaba is none other than the Nile.
+
+On discovering that the insignificant stream called the Chambezi,
+which rises between 10 degrees S. and 12 degrees S., flowed
+westerly, and then northerly through several lakes, now under
+the names of the Chambezi, then as the Luapula, and then as the
+Lualaba, and that it still continued its flow towards the north
+for over 7 degrees, Livingstone became firmly of the opinion that
+the river whose current he followed was the Egyptian Nile.  Failing
+at lat. 4 degrees S. to pursue his explorations further without
+additional supplies, he determined to return to Ujiji to obtain them.
+
+And now, having obtained them, he intends to return to the point
+where he left off work.  He means to follow that great river until
+it is firmly established what name shall eventually be given the
+noble water-way whose course he has followed through so many sick
+toilings and difficulties.  To all entreaties to come home, to all
+the glowing temptations which home and innumerable friends offer,
+he returns the determined answer:--
+
+"No; not until my work is ended."
+
+I have often heard our servants discuss our respective merits.
+"Your master," say my servants to Livingstone's, "is a good man--
+a very good man; he does not beat you, for he has a kind heart;
+but ours--oh! he is sharp--hot as fire"--"mkali sana, kana moto."
+From being hated and thwarted in every possible way by the Arabs
+and half-castes upon first arrival in Ujiji, he has, through
+his uniform kindness and mild, pleasant temper, won all hearts.
+I observed that universal respect was paid to him.  Even
+the Mohammedans never passed his house without calling to pay
+their compliments, and to say, "The blessing of God rest on
+you."  Each Sunday morning he gathers his little flock around him,
+and reads prayers and a chapter from the Bible, in a natural,
+unaffected, and sincere tone; and afterwards delivers a short
+address in the Kisawahili language, about the subject read to them,
+which is listened to with interest and attention.
+
+There is another point in Livingstone's character about which
+readers of his books, and students of his travels, would like to
+know, and that is his ability to withstand the dreadful climate of
+Central Africa, and the consistent energy with which he follows up
+his explorations.  His consistent energy is native to him and to
+his race.  He is a very fine example of the perseverance,
+doggedness, and tenacity which characterise the Anglo-Saxon
+spirit; but his ability to withstand the climate is due not only
+to the happy constitution with which he was born, but to the
+strictly temperate life he has ever led.  A drunkard and a man of
+vicious habits could never have withstood the climate of Central
+Africa.
+
+The second day after my arrival in Ujiji I asked the Doctor if he
+did not feel a desire, sometimes, to visit his country, and take
+a little rest after his six years' explorations; and the answer
+he gave me fully reveals the man.  Said he:
+
+"I should like very much to go home and see my children once
+again, but I cannot bring my heart to abandon the task I have
+undertaken, when it is so nearly completed.  It only requires
+six or seven months more to trace the true source that I have
+discovered with Petherick's branch of the White Nile, or with
+the Albert N'Yanza of Sir Samuel Baker, which is the lake
+called by the natives `Chowambe.'  Why should I go home before
+my task is ended, to have to come back again to do what I can
+very well do now?"
+
+"And why?" I asked, "did you come so far back without finishing
+the task which you say you have got to do?"
+
+"Simply because I was forced.  My men would not budge a step
+forward.  They mutinied, and formed a secret resolution--if I still
+insisted upon going on--to raise a disturbance in the country, and
+after they had effected it to abandon me; in which case I should
+have been killed.  It was dangerous to go any further.  I had
+explored six hundred miles of the watershed, had traced all the
+principal streams which discharge their waters into the central
+line of drainage, but when about starting to explore the last
+hundred miles the hearts of my people failed them, and they set
+about frustrating me in every possible way.  Now, having returned
+seven hundred miles to get a new supply of stores, and another
+escort, I find myself destitute of even the means to live but for
+a few weeks, and sick in mind and body."
+
+Here I may pause to ask any brave man how he would have comported
+himself in such a crisis.  Many would have been in exceeding hurry
+to get home to tell the news of the continued explorations and
+discoveries, and to relieve the anxiety of the sorrowing family
+and friends awaiting their return.  Enough surely had been
+accomplished towards the solution of the problem that had exercised
+the minds of his scientific associates of the Royal Geograpical
+Society.  It was no negative exploration, it was hard, earnest
+labor of years, self-abnegation, enduring patience, and exalted
+fortitude, such as ordinary men fail to exhibit.
+
+Suppose Livingstone had hurried to the coast after he had
+discovered Lake Bangweolo, to tell the news to the geographical
+world; then had returned to discover Moero, and run away again;
+then went back once more only to discover Kamolondo, and to race
+back again.  This would not be in accordance with Livingstone's
+character.  He must not only discover the Chambezi, Lake
+Bangweolo, Luapula River, Lake Moero, Lualaba River, and Lake
+Kamolondo, but he must still tirelessly urge his steps forward to
+put the final completion to the grand lacustrine river system.  Had
+he followed the example of ordinary explorers, he would have been
+running backwards and forwards to tell the news, instead of
+exploring; and he might have been able to write a volume upon the
+discovery of each lake, and earn much money thereby.  They are
+no few months' explorations that form the contents of his books.
+His `Missionary Travels' embraces a period of sixteen years; his
+book on the Zambezi, five years; and if the great traveller lives
+to come home, his third book, the grandest of all, must contain the
+records of eight or nine years.
+
+It is a principle with Livingstone to do well what he undertakes to
+do; and in the consciousness that he is doing it, despite the
+yearning for his home which is sometimes overpowering, he finds,
+to a certain extent, contentment, if not happiness.  To men
+differently constituted, a long residence amongst the savages
+of Africa would be contemplated with horror, yet Livingstone's mind
+can find pleasure and food for philosophic studies.  The wonders of
+primeval nature, the great forests and sublime mountains, the
+perennial streams and sources of the great lakes, the marvels of
+the earth, the splendors of the tropic sky by day and by night--
+all terrestrial and celestial phenomena are manna to a man of
+such self-abnegation and devoted philanthropic spirit.  He can
+be charmed with the primitive simplicity of Ethiop's dusky
+children, with whom he has spent so many years of his life;
+he has a sturdy faith in their capabilities; sees virtue
+in them where others see nothing but savagery; and wherever
+he has gone among them, he has sought to elevate a people
+that were apparently forgotten of God and Christian man.
+
+One night I took out my note-book, and prepared to take down
+from his own lips what he had to say about his travels; and
+unhesitatingly he related his experiences, of which the following
+is a summary:
+
+Dr. David Livingstone left the Island of Zanzibar in March, 1866.
+On the 7th of the following month he departed from Mikindany Bay
+for the interior, with an expedition consisting of twelve Sepoys
+from Bombay, nine men from Johanna, of the Comoro Islands, seven
+liberated slaves, and two Zambezi men, taking them as an
+experiment; six camels, three buffaloes, two mules, and three
+donkeys.  He had thus thirty men with him, twelve of whom, viz.,
+the Sepoys, were to act as guards for the Expedition.  They were
+mostly armed with the Enfield rifles presented to the Doctor by
+the Bombay Government.  The baggage of the expedition consisted
+of ten bales of cloth and two bags of beads, which were to serve
+as the currency by which they would be enabled to purchase the
+necessaries of life in the countries the Doctor intended to visit.
+Besides the cumbrous moneys, they carried several boxes of
+instruments, such as chronometers, air thermometers, sextant,
+and artificial horizon, boxes containing clothes, medicines,
+and personal necessaries.  The expedition travelled up the left
+bank of the Rovuma River, a rout/e/ as full of difficulties as
+any that could be chosen.  For miles Livingstone and his party
+had to cut their way with their axes through the dense and
+almost impenetrable jungles which lined the river's banks.
+The road was a mere footpath, leading in the most erratic fashion
+into and through the dense vegetation, seeking the easiest outlet
+from it without any regard to the course it ran.  The pagazis
+were able to proceed easily enough; but the camels, on account
+of their enormous height, could not advance a step without the
+axes of the party clearing the way.  These tools of foresters
+were almost always required; but the advance of the expedition
+was often retarded by the unwillingness of the Sepoys and
+Johanna men to work.
+
+Soon after the departure of the expedition from the coast,
+the murmurings and complaints of these men began, and upon every
+occasion and at every opportunity they evinced a decided
+hostility to an advance.  In order to prevent the progress of the
+Doctor, and in hopes that it would compel him to return to the
+coast, these men so cruelly treated the animals that before long
+there was not one left alive.  But as this scheme failed, they set
+about instigating the natives against the white men, whom they
+accused most wantonly of strange practices.  As this plan was most
+likely to succeed, and as it was dangerous to have such men with
+him, the Doctor arrived at the conclusion that it was best to
+discharge them, and accordingly sent the Sepoys back to the coast;
+but not without having first furnished them with the means of
+subsistence on their journey to the coast.  These men were such a
+disreputable set that the natives spoke of them as the Doctor's
+slaves.  One of their worst sins was the custom of giving their
+guns and ammunition to carry to the first woman or boy they met,
+whom they impressed for that purpose by such threats or promises
+as they were totally unable to perform, and unwarranted in making.
+An hour's marching was sufficient to fatigue them, after which
+they lay down on the road to bewail their hard fate, and concoct
+new schemes to frustrate their leader's purposes.  Towards night
+they generally made their appearance at the camping-ground with
+the looks of half-dead men. Such men naturally made but a poor
+escort; for, had the party been attacked by a wandering tribe
+of natives of any strength, the Doctor could have made no defence,
+and no other alternative would have been left to him but to
+surrender and be ruined.
+
+The Doctor and his little party arrived on the 18th July, 1866,
+at a village belonging to a chief of the Wahiyou, situate eight
+days' march south of the Rovuma, and overlooking the watershed
+of the Lake Nyassa.  The territory lying between the Rovuma River
+and this Wahiyou village was an uninhabited wilderness, during
+the transit of which Livingstone and his expedition suffered
+considerably from hunger and desertion of men.
+
+Early in August, 1866, the Doctor came to the country of Mponda,
+a chief who dwelt near the Lake Nyassa.  On the road thither, two
+of the liberated slaves deserted him.  Here also, Wekotani, a
+protege of the Doctor, insisted upon his discharge, alleging as
+an excuse--an excuse which the Doctor subsequently found to be
+untrue--that he had found his brother.  He also stated that his
+family lived on the east side of the Nyassa Lake.  He further
+stated that Mponda's favourite wife was his sister.  Perceiving
+that Wekotani was unwilling to go with him further, the Doctor
+took him to Mponda, who now saw and heard of him for the first
+time, and, having furnished the ungrateful boy with enough cloth
+and beads to keep him until his "big brother" should call for him,
+left him with the chief, after first assuring himself that he
+would receive honourable treatment from him.  The Doctor also
+gave Wekotanti writing-paper--as he could read and write, being
+accomplishments acquired at Bombay, where he had been put to
+school--so that, should he at any time feel disposed, he might
+write to his English friends, or to himself.  The Doctor further
+enjoined him not to join in any of the slave raids usually made
+by his countrymen, the men of Nyassa, on their neighbours.  Upon
+finding that his application for a discharge was successful,
+Wekotani endeavoured to induce Chumah, another protege of the
+Doctor's, and a companion, or chum, of Wekotani, to leave the
+Doctor's service and proceed with him, promising, as a bribe,
+a wife and plenty of pombe from his "big brother."  Chumah, upon
+referring the matter to the Doctor, was advised not to go, as he
+(the Doctor) strongly suspected that Wekotani wanted only to make
+him his slave.  Chumah wisely withdrew from his tempter.  From
+Mponda's, the Doctor proceeded to the heel of the Nyassa, to the
+village of a Babisa chief, who required medicine for a skin
+disease.  With his usual kindness, he stayed at this chief's
+village to treat his malady.
+
+While here, a half-caste Arab arrived from the western shore of the
+lake, and reported that he had been plundered by a band of Mazitu,
+at a place which the Doctor and Musa, chief of the Johanna men,
+were very well aware was at least 150 miles north-north-west of
+where they were then stopping.  Musa, however, for his own reasons
+--which will appear presently--eagerly listened to the Arab's tale,
+and gave full credence to it.  Having well digested its horrible
+details, he came to the Doctor to give him the full benefit of what
+he had heard with such willing ears.  The traveller patiently
+listened to the narrative, which lost nothing of its portentous
+significance through Musa's relation, and then asked Musa if he
+believed it.  "Yes," answered Musa, readily; "he tell me true,
+true.  I ask him good, and he tell me true, true."  The Doctor,
+however, said he did not believe it, for the Mazitu would not have
+been satisfied with merely plundering a man, they would have
+murdered him; but suggested, in order to allay the fears of his
+Moslem subordinate, that they should both proceed to the chief
+with whom they were staying, who, being a sensible man, would be
+able to advise them as to the probability or improbability of the
+tale being correct.  Together, they proceeded to the Babisa chief,
+who, when he had heard the Arab's story, unhesitatingly denounced
+the Arab as a liar, and his story without the least foundation in
+fact; giving as a reason that, if the Mazitu had been lately in
+that vicinity, he should have heard of it soon enough.
+
+But Musa broke out with "No, no, Doctor; no, no, no; I no want to
+go to Mazitu.  I no want Mazitu to kill me.  I want to see my
+father, my mother, my child, in Johanna.  I want no Mazitu."
+These are Musa's words _ipsissima verba_.
+
+To which the Doctor replied, "I don't want the Mazitu to kill me
+either; but, as you are afraid of them, I promise to go straight
+west until we get far past the beat of the Mazitu."
+
+Musa was not satisfied, but kept moaning and sorrowing, saying,
+"If we had two hundred guns with us I would go; but our small
+party of men they will attack by night, and kill all."
+
+The Doctor repeated his promise, "But I will not go near them;
+I will go west."
+
+As soon as he turned his face westward, Musa and the Johanna men
+ran away in a body.
+
+The Doctor says, in commenting upon Musa's conduct, that he felt
+strongly tempted to shoot Musa and another ringleader, but was,
+nevertheless, glad that he did not soil his hands with their vile
+blood.  A day or two afterwards, another of his men--Simon Price by
+name--came to the Doctor with the same tale about the Mazitu, but,
+compelled by the scant number of his people to repress all such
+tendencies to desertion and faint-heartedness, the Doctor silenced
+him at once, and sternly forbade him to utter the name of the
+Mazitu any more.
+
+Had the natives not assisted him, he must have despaired of ever
+being able to penetrate the wild and unexplored interior which he
+was now about to tread.  "Fortunately," as the Doctor says with
+unction, "I was in a country now, after leaving the shores of
+Nyassa, which the foot of the slave-trader has not trod; it was a
+new and virgin land, and of course, as I have always found in such
+cases, the natives were really good and hospitable, and for very
+small portions of cloth my baggage was conveyed from village to
+village by them."  In many other ways the traveller, in his
+extremity, was kindly treated by the yet unsophisticated and
+innocent natives.
+
+On leaving this hospitable region in the early part of December,
+1866, the Doctor entered a country where the Mazitu had exercised
+their customary marauding propensities.  The land was swept clean
+of provisions and cattle, and the people had emigrated to other
+countries, beyond the bounds of those ferocious plunderers.
+Again the Expedition was besieged by pinching hunger from which
+they suffered; they had recourse to the wild fruits which some
+parts of the country furnished.  At intervals the condition of
+the hard-pressed band was made worse by the heartless desertion
+of some of its members, who more than once departed with the
+Doctor's personal kit, changes of clothes, linen, &c.  With more
+or less misfortunes constantly dogging his footsteps, he traversed
+in safety the countries of the Babisa, Bobemba, Barungu, Ba-ulungu,
+and Lunda.
+
+In the country of Lunda lives the famous Cazembe, who was first
+made known to Europeans by Dr. Lacerda, the Portuguese traveller.
+Cazembe is a most intelligent prince; he is a tall, stalwart man,
+who wears a peculiar kind of dress, made of crimson print, in the
+form of a prodigious kilt.  In this state dress, King Cazembe
+received Dr. Livingstone, surrounded by his chiefs and body-guards.
+A chief, who had been deputed by the King and elders to discover
+all about the white man, then stood up before the assembly, and
+in a loud voice gave the result of the inquiry he had instituted.
+He had heard that the white man had come to look for waters,
+for rivers, and seas; though he could not understand what the
+white man could want with such things, he had no doubt that the
+object was good.  Then Cazembe asked what the Doctor proposed
+doing, and where he thought of going.  The Doctor replied that
+he had thought of proceeding south, as he had heard of lakes
+and rivers being in that direction.  Cazembe asked, "What can you
+want to go there for?  The water is close here.  There is plenty
+of large water in this neighbourhood."  Before breaking up the
+assembly, Cazembe gave orders to let the white man go where he
+would through his country undisturbed and unmolested.  He was the
+first Englishman he had seen, he said, and he liked him.
+
+Shortly after his introduction to the King, the Queen entered the
+large house, surrounded by a body-guard of Amazons with spears.
+She was a fine, tall, handsome young woman, and evidently thought
+she was about to make an impression upon the rustic white man, for
+she had clothed herself after a most royal fashion, and was armed
+with a ponderous spear.  But her appearance--so different from what
+the Doctor had imagined--caused him to laugh, which entirely
+spoiled the effect intended; for the laugh of the Doctor was so
+contagious, that she herself was the first to imitate it, and the
+Amazons, courtier-like, followed suit.  Much disconcerted by this,
+the Queen ran back, followed by her obedient damsels--a retreat
+most undignified and unqueenlike, compared with her majestic advent
+into the Doctor's presence.  But Livingstone will have much to say
+about his reception at this court, and about this interesting King
+and Queen; and who can so well relate the scenes he witnessed, and
+which belong exclusively to him, as he himself?
+
+Soon after his arrival in the country of Lunda, or Londa, and
+before he had entered the district ruled over by Cazembe, he had
+crossed a river called the Chambezi, which was quite an important
+stream.  The similarity of the name with that large and noble
+river south, which will be for ever connected with his name, misled
+Livingstone at that time, and he, accordingly, did not pay to it
+the attention it deserved, believing that the Chambezi was but the
+head-waters of the Zambezi, and consequently had no bearing or
+connection with the sources of the river of Egypt, of which he was
+in search.  His fault was in relying too implicitly upon the
+correctness of Portuguese information.  This error it cost him
+many months of tedious labour and travel to rectify.
+
+From the beginning of 1867--the time of his arrival at Cazembe's--
+till the middle of March, 1869--the time of his arrival at Ujiji--
+he was mostly engaged in correcting the errors and misrepresentations
+of the Portuguese travellers.  The Portuguese, in speaking of the
+River Chambezi, invariably spoke of it as "our own Zambezi,"--
+that is, the Zambezi which flows through the Portuguese
+possessions of the Mozambique.  "In going to Cazembe from
+Nyassa," said they, "you will cross our own Zambezi."  Such
+positive and reiterated information--given not only orally, but
+in their books and maps--was naturally confusing.  When the Doctor
+perceived that what he saw and what they described were at
+variance, out of a sincere wish to be correct, and lest he might
+have been mistaken himself, he started to retravel the ground he
+had travelled before.  Over and over again he traversed the several
+countries watered by the several rivers of the complicated water
+system, like an uneasy spirit.  Over and over again he asked the
+same questions from the different peoples he met, until he was
+obliged to desist, lest they might say, "The man is mad; he has
+got water on the brain!"
+
+But his travels and tedious labours in Lunda and the adjacent
+countries have established beyond doubt--first, that the Chambezi
+is a totally distinct river from the Zambezi of the Portuguese;
+and, secondly, that the Chambezi, starting from about latitude
+11 degrees south, is no other than the most southerly feeder of
+the great Nile; thus giving that famous river a length of over
+2,000 miles of direct latitude; making it, second to the
+Mississippi, the longest river in the world.  The real and true
+name of the Zambezi is Dombazi.  When Lacerda and his Portuguese
+successors, coming to Cazembe, crossed the Chambezi, and heard
+its name, they very naturally set it down as "our own Zambezi,"
+and, without further inquiry, sketched it as running in that
+direction.
+
+During his researches in that region, so pregnant in discoveries,
+Livingstone came to a lake lying north-east of Cazembe, which the
+natives call Liemba, from the country of that name which bordered
+it on the east and south.  In tracing the lake north, he found it
+to be none other than the Tanganika, or the south-eastern extremity
+of it, which looks, on the Doctor's map, very much like an outline
+of Italy.  The latitude of the southern end of this great.body of
+water is about 8 degrees 42 minutes south, which thus gives it a
+length, from north to south, of 360 geographical miles.  From the
+southern extremity of the Tanganika he crossed Marungu, and came
+in sight of Lake Moero.  Tracing this lake, which is about sixty
+miles in length, to its southern head, he found a river, called
+the Luapula, entering it from that direction.  Following the Luapula
+south, he found it issue from the large lake of Bangweolo, which
+is nearly as large in superficial area as the Tanganika.  In
+exploring for the waters which discharged themselves into the
+lake, he found that by far the most important of these feeders
+was the Chambezi; so that he had thus traced the Chambezi
+from its source to Lake Bangweolo, and the issue from its northern
+head, under the name of Luapula, and found it enter Lake Moero.
+Again he returned to Cazembe's, well satisfied that the river
+running north through three degrees of latitude could
+not be the river running south under the name of Zambezi, though
+there might be a remarkable resemblance in their names.
+
+At Cazembe's he found an old white-bearded half-caste named
+Mohammed bin Sali, who was kept as a kind of prisoner at large by
+the King because of certain suspicious circumstances attending his
+advent and stay in the country.  Through Livingstone's influence
+Mohammed bin Sali obtained his release.  On the road to Ujiji he
+had bitter cause to regret having exerted himself in the
+half-caste's behalf.  He turned out to be a most ungrateful wretch,
+who poisoned the minds of the Doctor's few followers, and
+ingratiated himself with them by selling the favours of his
+concubines to them, by which he reduced them to a kind of bondage
+under him.  The Doctor was deserted by all but two, even faithful
+Susi and Chumah deserted him for the service of Mohammed bin Sali.
+But they soon repented, and returned to their allegiance.  From
+the day he had the vile old man in his company manifold and
+bitter misfortunes followed the Doctor up to his arrival at
+Ujiji in March, 1869.
+
+From the date of his arrival until the end of June, 1869, he
+remained at Ujiji, whence he dated those letters which, though the
+outside world still doubted his being alive, satisfied the minds of
+the Royal Geographical people, and his intimate friends, that he
+still existed, and that Musa'a tale was the false though ingenious
+fabrication of a cowardly deserter.  It was during this time that
+the thought occurred to him of sailing around the Lake Tanganika,
+but the Arabs and natives were so bent upon fleecing him that, had
+he undertaken it, the remainder or his goods would not have enabled
+him to explore the central line of drainage, the initial point of
+which he found far south of Cazembe's in about latitude 11 degrees,
+in the river called Chambezi.
+
+In the days when tired Captain Burton was resting in Ujiji,
+after his march from the coast near Zanzibar, the land to which
+Livingstone, on his departure from Ujiji, bent his steps was
+unknown to the Arabs save by vague report.  Messrs. Burton and
+Speke never heard of it, it seems.  Speke, who was the geographer
+of Burton's Expedition, heard of a place called Urua, which he
+placed on his map, according to the general direction indicated by
+the Arabs; but the most enterprising of the Arabs, in their search
+after ivory, only touched the frontiers of Rua, as, the natives
+and Livingstone call it; for Rua is an immense country, with a
+length of six degrees of latitude, and as yet an undefined breadth
+from east to west.
+
+At the end of June, 1869, Livingstone quitted Ujiji and crossed
+over to Uguhha, on the western shore, for his last and greatest
+series of explorations; the result of which was the further
+discovery of a lake of considerable magnitude connected with Moero
+by the large river called the Lualaba, and which was a
+continuation of the chain of lakes he had previously discovered.
+
+From the port of Uguhha he set off, in company with a body of
+traders, in an almost direct westerly course, for the country of
+Urua.  Fifteen days' march brought them to Bambarre, the first
+important ivory depot in Manyema, or, as the natives pronounce it,
+Manyuema.  For nearly six months he was detained at Bambarre from
+ulcers in the feet, which discharged bloody ichor as soon as he
+set them on the ground.  When recovered, he set off in a northerly
+direction, and after several days came to a broad lacustrine river,
+called the Lualaba, flowing northward and westward, and in some
+places southward, in a most confusing way.  The river was from one
+to three miles broad.  By exceeding pertinacity he contrived to
+follow its erratic course, until he saw the Lualaba enter the narrow,
+long lake of Kamolondo, in about latitude 6 degrees 30 minutes.
+Retracing this to the south, he came to the point where he had
+seen the Luapula enter Lake Moero.
+
+One feels quite enthusiastic when listening to Livingstone's
+description of the beauties of Moero scenery.  Pent in on all sides
+by high mountains, clothed to the edges with the rich vegetation
+of the tropics, the Moero discharges its superfluous waters through
+a deep rent in the bosom of the mountains.  The impetuous and grand
+river roars through the chasm with the thunder of a cataract, but
+soon after leaving its confined and deep bed it expands into the
+calm and broad Lualaba, stretching over miles of ground.  After
+making great bends west and south-west, and then curving northward,
+it enters Kamolondo.  By the natives it is called the Lualaba, but
+the Doctor, in order to distinguish it from other rivers of the same
+name, has given it the name of "Webb's River," after Mr. Webb,
+the wealthy proprietor of Newstead Abbey, whom the Doctor
+distinguishes as one of his oldest and most consistent friends.
+Away to the south-west from Kamolondo is another large lake, which
+discharges its waters by the important River Loeki, or Lomami,
+into the great Lualaba.  To this lake, known as Chebungo by the
+natives, Dr. Livingstone has given the name of "Lincoln," to be
+hereafter distinguished on maps and in books as Lake Lincoln,
+in memory of Abraham Lincoln, our murdered President.  This was
+done from the vivid impression produced on his mind by hearing
+a portion of his inauguration speech read from an English pulpit,
+which related to the causes that induced him to issue his
+Emancipation Proclamation, by which memorable deed 4,000,000 of
+slaves were for ever freed.  To the memory of the man whose
+labours on behalf of the negro race deserves the commendation of
+all good men, Livingstone has contributed a monument more durable
+than brass or stone.
+
+Entering Webb's River from the south-south-west, a little north
+of Kamolondo, is a large river called Lufira, but the streams,
+that discharge themselves from the watershed into the Lualaba are
+so numerous that the Doctor's map would not contain them, so he has
+left all out except the most important.  Continuing his way north,
+tracing the Lualaba through its manifold and crooked curves as far
+as latitude 4 degrees south, he came to where he heard of another
+lake, to the north, into which it ran.  But here you may come to
+a dead halt, and read what lies beyond this spot thus .  .  .  .
+This was the furthermost point, whence he was compelled to return
+on the weary road to Ujiji, a distance of 700 miles.
+
+In this brief sketch of Dr. Livingstone's wonderful travels it is
+to be hoped the most superficial reader, as well as the student of
+geography, comprehends this grand system of lakes connected
+together by Webb's River.  To assist him, let him glance at the
+map accompanying this book.  He will then have a fair idea of what
+Dr. Livingstone has been doing during these long years, and what
+additions he has made to the study of African geography.  That
+this river, distinguished under several titles, flowing from one
+lake into another in a northerly direction, with all its great
+crooked bends and sinuosities, is the Nile--the true Nile--the
+Doctor has not the least doubt.  For a long time he entertained
+great scepticism, because of its deep bends and curves west,
+and south-west even; but having traced it from its head waters,
+the Chambezi, through 7 degrees of latitude--that is, from
+11 degrees S. to lat. 4 degrees N.--he has been compelled to come
+to the conclusion that it can be no other river than the Nile.
+He had thought it was the Congo; but has discovered the sources
+of the Congo to be the Kassai and the Kwango, two rivers which
+rise on the western side of the Nile watershed, in about the
+latitude of Bangweolo; and he was told of another river called
+the Lubilash, which rose from the north, and ran west.  But the
+Lualaba, the Doctor thinks, cannot be the Congo, from its great
+size and body, and from its steady and continued flow northward
+through a broad and extensive valley, bounded by enormous
+mountains westerly and easterly.  The altitude of the most
+northerly point to which the Doctor traced the wonderful river
+was a little in excess of 2,000 feet; so that, though Baker
+makes out his lake to be 2,700 feet above the sea, yet the
+Bahr Ghazal, through which Petherick's branch of the White Nile
+issues into the Nile, is but 2,000 feet; in which case there is
+a possibility that the Lualaba may be none other than Petherick's
+branch.
+
+It is well known that trading stations for ivory have been
+established for about 500 miles up Petherick's branch.  We must
+remember this fact when told that Gondokoro, in lat. 4 degrees N.,
+is 2,000 feet above the sea, and lat. 4 degrees S., where the
+halt was made, is only a little over 2,000 feet above the sea.
+That the two rivers said to be 2,000 feet above the sea, separated
+from each other by 8 degrees of latitude, are one and the same
+river, may among some men be regarded as a startling statement.
+But we must restrain mere expressions of surprise, and take
+into consideration that this mighty and broad Lualaba is a
+lacustrine river broader than the Mississippi; that at intervals
+the body of water forms extensive lakes; then, contracting into
+a broad river, it again forms a lake, and so on, to lat. 4 degrees;
+and even beyond this point the Doctor hears of a large lake again
+north.
+
+We must wait also until the altitudes of the two rivers, the
+Lualaba, where the Doctor halted, and the southern point on the
+Bahr Ghazal, where Petherick has been, are known with perfect
+accuracy.
+
+Now, for the sake of argument, suppose we give this nameless lake
+a length of 6 degrees of latitude, as it may be the one discovered
+by Piaggia, the Italian traveller, from which Petherick's branch
+of the White Nile issues out through reedy marshes, into the Bahr
+Ghazal, thence into the White Nile, south of Gondokoro.  By this
+method we can suppose the rivers one; for if the lake extends
+over so many degrees of latitude, the necessity of explaining the
+differences of altitude that must naturally exist between two
+points of a river 8 degrees of latitude apart, would be obviated.
+
+Also, Livingstone's instruments for observation and taking
+altitudes may have been in error; and this is very likely to
+have been the case, subjected as they have been to rough handling
+during nearly six years of travel.  Despite the apparent
+difficulty of the altitude, there is another strong reason for
+believing Webb's River, or the Lualaba, to be the Nile.  The
+watershed of this river, 600 miles of which Livingstone has
+travelled, is drained from a valley which lies north and south
+between lofty eastern and western ranges.
+
+This valley, or line of drainage, while it does not receive the
+Kassai and the Kwango, receives rivers flowing from a great
+distance west, for instance, the important tributaries Lufira
+and Lomami, and large rivers from the east, such as the Lindi
+and Luamo; and, while the most intelligent Portuguese travellers
+and traders state that the Kassai, the Kwango, and Lubilash are
+the head waters of the Congo River, no one has yet started the
+supposition that the grand river flowing north, and known by
+the natives as the Lualaba, is the Congo.
+
+This river may be the Congo, or, perhaps, the Niger.  If the
+Lualaba is only 2,000 feet above the sea, and the Albert N'Yanza
+2,700 feet, the Lualaba cannot enter that lake.  If the Bahr Ghazal
+does not extend by an arm for eight degrees above Gondokoro, then
+the Lualaba cannot be the Nile.  But it would be premature to
+dogmatise on the subject.  Livingstone will clear up the point
+himself; and if he finds it to be the Congo, will be the first to
+admit his error.
+
+Livingstone admits the Nile sources have not been found, though he
+has traced the Lualaba through seven degrees of latitude flowing
+north; and, though he has not a particle of doubt of its being the
+Nile, not yet can the Nile question be said to be resolved and
+ended.  For two reasons:
+
+1.  He has heard of the existence of four fountains, two of which
+gave birth to a river flowing north, Webb's River, or the Lualaba,
+and to a river flowing south, which is the Zambezi.  He has
+repeatedly heard of these fountains from the natives.  Several
+times he has been within 100 and 200 miles from them, but something
+always interposed to prevent his going to see them.  According to
+those who have seen them, they rise on either side of a mound or
+level, which contains no stones.  Some have called it an ant-hill.
+One of these fountains is said to be so large that a man, standing
+on one side, cannot be seen from the other.  These fountains must
+be discovered, and their position taken.  The Doctor does not suppose
+them to be south of the feeders of Lake Bangweolo.  In his letter to
+the 'Herald' he says "These four full-grown gushing fountains,
+rising so near each other, and giving origin to four large rivers,
+answer in a certain degree to the description given of the
+unfathomable fountains of the Nile, by the secretary of Minerva,
+in the city of Sais, in Egypt, to the father of all travellers--
+Herodotus."
+
+For the information of such readers as may not have the original
+at hand, I append the following from Cary's translation of
+Herodotus: <II.28>
+
+<Jul 2001 The History of Herodotus V1 by Herodotus/ Macaulay
+[1hofhxxx.xxx]2707>
+
+***
+  With respect to the sources of the Nile, no man of all the
+  Egyptians, Libyans, or Grecians, with whom I have conversed,
+  ever pretended to know anything, except the registrar* of Minerva's
+
+<*the secretary of the treasury of the goddess Neith, or Athena
+as Herodotus calls her:
+ho grammatiste:s to:n hiro:n xre:mato:n te:s Athe:naie:s>
+
+  treasury at Sais, in Egypt.  He, indeed, seemed to be trifling
+  with me when he said he knew perfectly well; yet his account was
+  as follows: "That there are two mountains, rising into a sharp
+  peak, situated between the city of Syene, in Thebais, and
+  Elephantine.  The names of these mountains are the one Crophi,
+  the other Mophi; that the sources of the Nile, which are bottomless,
+  flow from between these mountains and that half of the water flows
+  over Egypt and to the north, the other half over Ethiopia and the
+  south.  That the fountains of the Nile are bottomless, he said,
+  Psammitichus, king of Egypt, proved by experiment: for, having
+  caused a line to be twisted many thousand fathoms in length, he
+  let it down, but could not find a bottom."  Such, then, was the
+  opinion the registrar gave, if, indeed, he spoke the real truth;
+  proving, in my opinion, that there are strong whirlpools and an
+  eddy here, so that the water beating against the rocks, a
+  sounding-line, when let down, cannot reach the bottom.  I was
+  unable to learn anything more from any one else.  But thus much
+  I learnt by carrying my researches as far as possible, having gone
+  and made my own observations as far as Elephantine, and beyond
+  that obtaining information from hearsay.  As one ascends the river,
+  above the city of Elephantine, the country is steep; here,
+  therefore; it is necessary to attach a rope on both sides of a boat,
+  as one does with an ox in a plough, and so proceed; but if
+  the rope should happen to break, the boat is carried away by the
+  force of the stream.  This kind of country lasts for a four-days'
+  passage, and the Nile here winds as much as the Maeander.  There
+  are twelve schoeni, which it is necessary to sail through in
+  this manner; and after that you will come to a level plain, where
+  the Nile flows round an island; its name is Tachompso.  Ethiopians
+  inhabit the country immediately above Elephantine, and one half
+  of the island; the other half is inhabited by Egyptians.  Near to
+  this island lies a vast lake, on the borders of which Ethiopian
+  nomades dwell.  After sailing through this lake you will come to
+  the channel of the Nile, which flows into it: then you will have
+  to land and travel forty days by the side of the river, for sharp
+  rocks rise in the Nile, and there are many sunken ones, through
+  which it is not possible to navigate a boat.  Having passed this
+  country in the forty days, you must go on board another boat, and
+  sail for twelve days; and then you will arrive at a large city,
+  called Meroe; this city is said to be the capital of all
+  Ethiopia.  The inhabitants worship no other gods than Jupiter and
+  Bacchus; but these they honour with great magnificence.  They
+  have also an oracle of Jupiter; and they make war whenever that
+  god bids them by an oracular warning, and against whatever
+  country he bids them.  Sailing from this city, you will arrive at
+  the country of the Automoli, in a space of time equal to that
+  which you took in coming from Elephantine to the capital of the
+  Ethiopians.  These Automoli are called by the name of Asmak,
+  which, in the language of Greece, signifies "those that stand at
+  the left hand of the king."  These, to the number of two hundred and
+  forty thousand of the Egyptian war-tribe, revolted to the
+  Ethiopians on the following occasion.  In the reign of King
+  Psammitichus garrisons were stationed at Elephantine against the
+  Ethiopians, and another at the Pelusian Daphnae against the
+  Arabians and Syrians, and another at Marea against Libya; and even
+  in my time garrisons of the Persians are stationed in the same
+  places as they were in the time of Psammitichus, for they
+  maintain guards at Elephantine and Daphnae.  Now, these Egyptians,
+  after they had been on duty three years, were not relieved;
+  therefore, having consulted together and come to an unanimous
+  resolution, they all revolted from Psammitichus, and went to
+  Ethiopia.  Psammitichus, hearing of this, pursued them; and when
+  he overtook them he entreated them by many arguments, and adjured
+  them not to forsake the gods of their fathers, and their
+  children and wives But one of them is reported to have uncovered
+  [        ] and to have said, that wheresoever these were there they
+
+<<"which it is said that one of them pointed to his privy member and
+said that wherever this was, there would they have both children and
+wives"-- Macaulay tr.; published edition censors>>
+
+  should find both children and wives."  These men, when they arrived
+  in Ethiopia, offered their services to the king of the Ethiopians,
+  who made them the following recompense.  There were certain
+  Ethiopians disaffected towards him; these he bade them expel,
+  and take possession of their land.  By the settlement of these men
+  among the Ethiopians, the Ethiopians became more civilized, and
+  learned the manners of the Egyptians.
+
+  Now, for a voyage and land journey of four months, the Nile is
+  known, in addition to the part f the stream that is in Egypt; for,
+  upon computation, so many months are known to be spent by a
+  person who travels from Elephantine to the Automoli.  This river
+  flows from the west and the setting of the sun; but beyond this no
+  one is able to speak with certainty, for the rest of the country
+  is desert by reason of the excessive heat.  But I have heard the
+  following account from certain Cyrenaeans, who say that they went
+  to the oracle of Ammon, and had a conversation with Etearchus, King
+  of the Ammonians, and that, among other subjects, they happened to
+  discourse about the Nile--that nobody knew its sources; whereupon
+  Etearchus said that certain Nasamonians once came to him--this
+  nation is Lybian, and inhabits the Syrtis, and the country for no
+  great distance eastward of the Syrtis--and that when these
+  Nasamonians arrived, and were asked if they could give any
+  further formation touching the deserts of Libya, they answered,
+  that there were some daring youths amongst them, sons of powerful
+  men; and that they, having reached man's estate, formed many
+  other extravagant plans, and, moreover, chose five of their number
+  by lot to explore the deserts of Libya, to see if they could make
+  any further discovery than those who had penetrated the farthest.
+  (For, as respects the parts of Libya along the Northern Sea,
+  beginning from Egypt to the promontory of Solois, where is the
+  extremity of Libya, Libyans and various nations of Libyans reach
+  all along it, except those parts which are occupied by Grecians
+  and Phoenicians; but as respects the parts above the sea, and
+  those nations which reach down to the sea, in the upper parts
+  Libya is infested by wild beasts; and all beyond that is sand,
+  dreadfully short of water, and utterly desolate.)  They further
+  related, "that when the young men deputed by their companions
+  set out, well furnished with water and provisions, they passed
+  first through the inhabited country; and having traversed this,
+  they came to the region infested by wild beasts; and after this
+  they crossed the desert, making their way towards the west; and
+  when they had traversed much sandy ground, during a journey of
+  many days, they at length saw some trees growing in a plain; and
+  that they approached and began to gather the fruit that grew on
+  the trees; and while they were gathering, some diminutive men,
+  less than men of middle stature, came up, and having seized them
+  carried them away; and that the Nasamonians did not at all understand
+  their language, nor those who carried them off the language of
+  the Nasamonians.  However, they conducted them through vast
+  morasses, and when they had passed these, they came to a city in
+  which all the inhabitants were of the same size as their conductors,
+  and black in colour: and by the city flowed a great river, running
+  from the west to the east, and that crocodiles were seen in it."
+  Thus far I have set forth the account of Etearchus the Ammonian;
+  to which may be added, as the Cyrenaeans assured me, "that he said
+  the Nasamonians all returned safe to their own country, and that
+  the men whom they came to were all necromancers."  Etearchus also
+  conjectured that this river, which flows by their city, is the Nile;
+  and reason so evinces: for the Nile flows from Libya, and intersects
+  it in the middle; and (as I conjecture, inferring things unknown
+  from things known) it sets out from a point corresponding with the
+  Ister.  For the Ister, beginning from the Celts, and the city of
+  Pyrene, divides Europe in its course; but the Celts are beyond
+  the pillars of Hercules, and border on the territories of the
+  Cynesians, who lie in the extremity of Europe to the westward;
+  and the Ister terminates by flowing through all Europe into the
+  Euxine Sea, where a Milesian colony is settled in Istria.  Now
+  the Ister, as it flows through a well-peopled country, is generally
+  known; but no one is able to speak about the sources of the Nile,
+  because Libya, through which it flows, is uninhabited and desolate.
+  Respecting this stream, therefore, as far as I was able to reach by
+  inquiry, I have already spoken.  It however discharges itself into
+  Egypt; and Egypt lies, as near as may be, opposite to the
+  mountains of Cilicia; from whence to Sinope, on the Euxine Sea,
+  is a five days' journey in a straight line to an active man; and
+  Sinope is opposite to the Ister, where it discharges itself into
+  the sea.  So I think that the Nile, traversing the whole of Libya,
+  may be properly compared with the Ister.  Such, then, is the
+  account that I am able to give respecting the Nile.
+***
+<end of Herodotus's account)
+***
+
+2.  Webb's River must be traced to its connection with some portion
+of the old Nile.
+
+When these two things have been accomplished, then, and not till
+then, can the mystery of the Nile be explained.  The two countries
+through which the marvellous lacustrine river, the Lualaba, flows,
+with its manifold lakes and broad expanse of water, are Rua (the
+Uruwwa of Speke) and Manyuema.  For the first time Europe is made
+aware that between the Tanganika and the known sources of the Congo
+there exist teeming millions of the negro race, who never saw, or
+heard of the white people who make such a noisy and busy stir
+outside of Africa.  Upon the minds of those who had the good
+fortune to see the first specimen of these remarkable white races
+in Dr. Livingstone, he seems to have made a favourable impression,
+though, through misunderstanding his object, and coupling him with
+the Arabs, who make horrible work there, his life was sought after
+more than once.  These two extensive countries, Rua and Manyuema,
+are populated by true heathens, governed, not as the sovereignties
+of Karagwah, Urundi, and Uganda, by despotic kings, but each
+village by its own sultan or lord.  Thirty miles outside of their
+own immediate settlements, the most intelligent of these small
+chiefs seem to know nothing.  Thirty miles from the Lualaba, there
+were but few people who had ever heard of the great river.  Such
+ignorance among the natives of their own country naturally
+increased the labours of Livingstone.  Compared with these, all
+tribes and nations in Africa with whom Livingstone came in contact
+may be deemed civilized, yet, in the arts of home manufacture,
+these wild people of Manyuema were far superior to any he had
+seen.  Where other tribes and nations contented themselves with
+hides and skins of animals thrown negligently over their shoulders,
+the people of Manyuema manufactured a cloth from fine grass, which
+may favorably compare with the finest grass cloth of India.  They
+also know the art of dy/e/ing them in various colours--black, yellow,
+and purple.  The Wangwana, or freed-men of Zanzibar, struck with
+the beauty of the fabric, eagerly exchange their cotton cloths
+for fine grass cloth; and on almost every black man from Manyuema
+I have seen this native cloth converted into elegantly made damirs
+(Arabic)--short jackets.  These countries are also very rich in ivory.
+The fever for going to Manyuema to exchange tawdry beads for its
+precious tusks is of the same kind as that which impelled men to go
+to the gulches and placers of California, Colorado, Montana, and
+Idaho; after nuggets to Australia, and diamonds to Cape Colony.
+Manyuema is at present the El Dorado of the Arab and the Wamrima
+tribes.  It is only about four years since that the first Arab
+returned from Manyuema, with such wealth of ivory, and reports
+about the fabulous quantities found there, that ever since the
+old beaten tracks of Karagwah, Uganda, Ufipa, and Marungu have
+been comparatively deserted.  The people of Manyuema, ignorant
+of the value of the precious article, reared their huts upon
+ivory stanchions.  Ivory pillars were common sights in Manyuema,
+and, hearing of these, one can no longer, wonder at the ivory
+palace of Solomon.  For generations they have used ivory tusks
+as door-posts and supports to the eaves, until they had become
+perfectly rotten and worthless.  But the advent of the Arabs
+soon taught them the value of the article.  It has now risen
+considerably in price, though still fabulously cheap.  At
+Zanzibar the value of ivory per frasilah of 35 lbs. weight
+is from $50 to $60, according to its quality.  In Unyanyembe
+it is about $1-10 per pound, but in Manyuema, it may be
+purchased for from half a cent to 14 cent's worth of copper
+per pound of ivory.  The Arabs, however, have the knack of
+spoiling markets by their rapacity and cruelty.  With muskets,
+a small party of Arabs is invincible against such people as
+those of Manyuema, who, until lately, never heard the sound of
+a gun.  The discharge of a musket inspires mortal terror in them,
+and it is almost impossible to induce them to face the muzzle
+of a gun.  They believe that the Arabs have stolen the lightning,
+and that against such people the bow and arrow can have little
+effect.  They are by no means devoid of courage, and they have
+often declared that, were it not for the guns, not one Arab would
+leave the country alive; this tends to prove that they would
+willingly engage in fight with the strangers who had made
+themselves so detestable, were it not that the startling explosion
+of gunpowder inspires them with terror.
+
+Into what country soever the Arabs enter, they contrive to render
+their name and race abominated.  But the mainspring of it all is
+not the Arab's nature, colour, or name, but simply the slave-trade.
+So long as the slave-trade is permitted to be kept up at Zanzibar,
+so long will these otherwise enterprising people, the Arabs,
+kindle gainst them the hatred of the natives throughout Africa.
+
+On the main line of travel from Zanzibar into the interior of
+Africa these acts of cruelty are unknown, for the very good
+reason that the natives having been armed with guns, and taught
+how to use those weapons, are by no means loth to do so whenever
+an opportunity presents itself.  When, too late, they have perceived
+their folly in selling guns to the natives, the Arabs now begin
+to vow vengeance on the person who will in future sell a gun to
+a native.  But they are all guilty of the same mistake, and it is
+strange they did not perceive that it was folly when they were
+doing so.
+
+In former days the Arab, when protected by his slave escort, armed
+with guns, could travel through Useguhha, Urori, Ukonongo, Ufipa,
+Karagwah, Unyoro, and Uganda, with only a stick in his hand; now,
+however, it is impossible for him or any one else to do so.  Every
+step he takes, armed or unarmed, is fraught with danger.  The
+Waseguhha, near the coast, detain him, and demand the tribute,
+or give him the option of war; entering Ugogo, he is subjected
+every day to the same oppressive demand, or to the fearful alternative.
+The Wanyamwezi also show their readiness to take the same advantage;
+the road to Karagwah is besieged with difficulties; the terrible
+Mirambo stands in the way, defeats their combined forces with ease,
+and makes raids even to the doors of their houses in Unyanyembe;
+and should they succeed in passing Mirambo, a chief--Swaruru--
+stands before them who demands tribute by the bale, and against
+whom it is useless to contend.
+
+These remarks have reference to the slave-trade inaugurated in
+Manyuema by the Arabs.  Harassed on the road between Zanzibar and
+Unyanyembe by minatory natives, who with bloody hands are ready
+to avenge the slightest affront, the Arabs have refrained from
+kidnapping between the Tanganika and the sea; but in Manyuema,
+where the natives are timid, irresolute, and divided into small
+weak tribes, they recover their audacity, and exercise their
+kidnapping propensities unchecked.
+
+The accounts which the Doctor brings from that new region are most
+deplorable.  He was an unwilling spectator of a horrible deed--a
+massacre committed on the inhabitants of a populous district who
+had assembled in the market-place on the banks of the Lualaba, as
+they had been accustomed to do for ages.  It seems that the
+Wamanyuema are very fond of marketing, believing it to be the
+summum bonum of human enjoyment.  They find endless pleasure in
+chaffering with might and main for the least mite of their currency--
+the last bead; and when they gain the point to which their peculiar
+talents are devoted, they feel intensely happy.  The women are
+excessively fond of this marketing, and, as they are very beautiful,
+the market place must possess considerable attractions for the male
+sex.  It was on such a day amidst such a scene, that Tagamoyo, a
+half-caste Arab, with his armed slave escort, commenced an
+indiscriminate massacre by firing volley after volley into the dense
+mass of human beings.  It is supposed that there were about 2,000
+present, and at the first sound of the firing these poor people all
+made a rush for their canoes.  In the fearful hurry to avoid being
+shot, the canoes were paddled away by the first fortunate few who
+got possession of them; those that were not so fortunate sprang
+into the deep waters of the Lualaba, and though many of them became
+an easy prey to the voracious crocodiles which swarmed to the scene,
+the majority received their deaths from the bullets of the
+merciless Tagamoyo and his villanous band.  The Doctor believes,
+as do the Arabs themselves, that about 400 people, mostly women
+and children, lost their lives, while many more were made slaves.
+This outrage is only one of many such he has unwillingly
+witnessed, and he is utterly unable to describe the feelings
+of loathing he feels for the inhuman perpetrators.
+
+Slaves from Manyuema command a higher price than those of any
+other country, because of their fine forms and general docility.
+The women, the Doctor said repeatedly, are remarkably pretty
+creatures, and have nothing, except the hair, in common with
+the negroes of the West Coast.  They are of very light colour,
+have fine noses, well-cut and not over-full lips, while the
+prognathous jaw is uncommon.  These women are eagerly sought
+after as wives by the half-castes of the East Coast, and even
+the pure Omani Arabs do not disdain to take them in marriage.
+
+To the north of Manyuema, Livingstone came to the light-
+complexioned race, of the colour of Portuguese, or our own
+Louisiana quadroons, who are very fine people, and singularly
+remarkable for commercial "'cuteness" and sagacity.  The women
+are expert divers for oysters, which are found in great abundance
+in the Lualaba.
+
+Rua, at a place called Katanga, is rich in copper.  The copper-mines
+of this place have been worked for ages.  In the bed of a stream,
+gold has been found, washed down in pencil-shaped pieces or in
+particles as large as split peas.  Two Arabs have gone thither
+to prospect for this metal; but, as they are ignorant of the art
+of gulch-mining, it is scarcely possible that they will succeed.
+From these highly important and interesting discoveries, Dr.
+Livingstone was turned back, when almost on the threshold of
+success, by the positive refusal of his men to accompany him further.
+They were afraid to go on unless accompanied by a large force of
+men; and, as these were not procurable in Manyuema, the Doctor
+reluctantly turned his face towards Ujiji.
+
+It was a long and weary road back.  The journey had now no
+interest for him.  He had travelled the road before when going
+westward, full of high hopes and aspirations, impatient to reach
+the goal which promised him rest from his labors--now, returning
+unsuccessful, baffled, and thwarted, when almost in sight of the
+end, and having to travel the same path back on foot, with
+disappointed expectations and defeated hopes preying on his mind,
+no wonder that the old brave spirit almost succumbed, and the
+strong constitution almost went to wreck.
+
+Livingstone arrived at Ujiji, October 16th, almost at death's door.
+On the way he had been trying to cheer himself up, since he had
+found it impossible to contend against the obstinacy of his men,
+with, "It won't take long; five or six months more; it matters
+not since it cannot be helped.  I have got my goods in Ujiji, and
+can hire other people, and make a new start again."  These are the
+words and hopes by which he tried to delude himself into the idea
+that all would be right yet; but imagine the shock he must have
+suffered, when he found that the man to whom was entrusted his
+goods for safe keeping had sold every bale for ivory.
+
+The evening of the day Livingstone had returned to Ujiji, Susi
+and Chuma, two of his most faithful men, were seen crying bitterly.
+The Doctor asked of them what ailed them, and was then informed,
+for the first time, of the evil tidings that awaited him.
+
+Said they, "All our things are sold, sir; Sherif has sold
+everything for ivory."
+
+Later in the evening, Sherif came to see him, and shamelessly
+offered his hand, but Livingstone repulsed him, saying he could not
+shake hands with a thief.  As an excuse, Sherif said he had divined
+on the Koran, and that this had told him the Hakim (Arabic for
+Doctor) was dead.
+
+Livingstone was now destitute; he had just enough to keep him and
+his men alive for about a month, when he would be forced to beg
+from the Arabs.
+
+The Doctor further stated, that when Speke gives the altitude of
+the Tanganika at only 1,800 feet above the sea, Speke must have
+fallen into that error by a frequent writing of the Anne Domini,
+a mere slip of the pen; for the altitude, as he makes it out,
+is 2,800 feet by boiling point, and a little over 3,000 feet by
+barometer.
+
+The Doctor's complaints were many because slaves were sent to him,
+in charge of goods, after he had so often implored the people at
+Zanzibar to send him freemen.  A very little effort on the part of
+those entrusted with the despatch of supplies to him might have
+enabled them to procure good and faithful freemen; but if they
+contented themselves, upon the receipt of a letter from Dr.
+Livingstone, with sending to Ludha Damji for men, it is no longer
+a matter of wonder that dishonest and incapable slaves were sent
+forward.  It is no new fact that the Doctor has discovered when
+he states that a negro freeman is a hundred times more capable
+and trustworthy than a slave.  Centuries ago Eumaeus, the herdsman,
+said to Ulysses:
+
+Jove fixed it certain, that whatever day
+Makes man a slave, takes half his worth away.
+
+We passed several happy days at Ujiji, and it was time we were now
+preparing for our cruise on the Tanganika.  Livingstone was
+improving every day under the different diet which my cook furnished
+him.  I could give him no such suppers as that which Jupiter and
+Mercury received at the cottage of Baucis and Philemon.  We had no
+berries of chaste Minerva, pickled cherries, endive, radishes,
+dried figs, dates, fragrant apples, and grapes; but we had cheese,
+and butter which I made myself, new-laid eggs, chickens, roast
+mutton, fish from the lake, rich curds and cream, wine from the
+Guinea-palm, egg-plants, cucumbers, sweet potatoes, pea-nuts,
+and beans, white honey from Ukaranga, luscious singwe--a plum-like
+fruit--from the forests of Ujiji, and corn scones and dampers,
+in place of wheaten bread.
+
+During the noontide heats we sat under our veranda discussing our
+various projects, and in the early morning and evening we sought
+the shores of the lake--promenading up and down the beach to breathe
+the cool breezes which ruffled the surface of the water, and rolled
+the unquiet surf far up on the smooth and whitened shore.
+
+It was the dry season, and we had most lovely weather; the
+temperature never was over 80 degrees in the shade.
+
+The market-place overlooking the broad silver water afforded us
+amusement and instruction.  Representatives of most of the tribes
+dwelling near the lake were daily found there.  There were the
+agricultural and pastoral Wajiji, with their flocks and herds;
+there were the fishermen from Ukaranga and Kaole, from beyond
+Bangwe, and even from Urundi, with their whitebait, which they
+called dogara, the silurus, the perch, and other fish; there were
+the palm-oil merchants, principally from Ujiji and Urundi, with
+great five-gallon pots full of reddish oil, of the consistency of
+butter; there were the salt merchants from the salt-plains of
+Uvinza and Uhha; there were the ivory merchants from Uvira and
+Usowa; there were the canoe-makers from Ugoma and Urundi; there
+were the cheap-Jack pedlers from Zanzibar, selling flimsy prints,
+and brokers exchanging blue mutunda beads for sami-sami, and
+sungomazzi, and sofi.  The sofi beads are like pieces of thick
+clay-pipe stem about half an inch long, and are in great demand
+here.  Here were found Waguhha, Wamanyuema, Wagoma, Wavira,
+Wasige, Warundi, Wajiji, Waha, Wavinza, Wasowa, Wangwana, Wakawendi,
+Arabs, and Wasawahili, engaged in noisy chaffer and barter.
+Bareheaded, and almost barebodied, the youths made love to the
+dark-skinned and woolly-headed Phyllises, who knew not how to
+blush at the ardent gaze of love, as their white sisters; old
+matrons gossiped, as the old women do everywhere; the children
+played, and laughed, and struggled, as children of our own lands;
+and the old men, leaning on their spears or bows, were just as
+garrulous in the Place de Ujiji as aged elders in other climes.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.  OUR CRUISE ON THE LAKE TANGANIKA--
+               EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH-END OF THE LAKE--
+               THE RUSIZI IS DISCOVERED TO ENTER INTO THE LAKE--
+               RETURN TO UJIJI.
+
+"I distinctly deny that `any misleading by my instructions
+from the Royal Geographical Society as to the position of the
+White Nile' made me unconscious of the vast importance of
+ascertaining the direction of the Rusizi River.  The fact is,
+we did our best to reach it, and we failed."--Burton's Zanzibar.
+
+"The universal testimony of the natives to the Rusizi River
+being an influent is the most conclusive argument that it does
+run out of the lake."--Speke.
+
+"I therefore claim for Lake Tanganika the honour of being the
+SOUTHERNMOST RESERVOIR OF THE NILE, until some more positive
+evidence, by actual observation, shall otherwise determine it."--
+Findlay, R.G.S.
+
+
+Had Livingstone and myself, after making up our minds to visit
+the northern head of the Lake Tanganika, been compelled by the
+absurd demands or fears of a crew of Wajiji to return to
+Unyanyembe without having resolved the problem of the Rusizi River,
+we had surely deserved to be greeted by everybody at home with a
+universal giggling and cackling.  But Capt. Burton's failure to
+settle it, by engaging Wajiji, and that ridiculous savage chief
+Kannena, had warned us of the negative assistance we could expect
+from such people for the solution of a geographical problem.  We
+had enough good sailors with us, who were entirely under our
+commands.  Could we but procure the loan of a canoe, we thought
+all might be well.
+
+Upon application to Sayd bin Majid, he at once generously
+permitted us to use his canoe for any service for which we might
+require it.  After engaging two Wajiji guides at two doti each,
+we prepared to sail from the port of Ujiji, in about a week or
+so after my entrance into Ujiji.
+
+I have already stated how it was that the Doctor and I undertook
+the exploration of the northern half of the Tanganika and the River
+Rusizi, about which so much had been said and written.
+
+Before embarking on this enterprise, Dr. Livingstone had not
+definitely made up his mind which course he should take, as his
+position was truly deplorable.  His servants consisted of Susi,
+Chumah, Hamoydah, Gardner, and Halimah, the female cook and wife of
+Hamoydah; to these was added Kaif-Halek, the man whom I compelled
+to follow me from Unyanyembe to deliver the Livingstone letters to
+his master.
+
+Whither could Dr. Livingstone march with these few men, and the
+few table-cloths and beads that remained to him from the store
+squandered by the imbecile Sherif?  This was a puzzling question.
+Had Dr. Livingstone been in good health, his usual hardihood and
+indomitable spirit had answered it in a summary way.  He might
+have borrowed some cloth from Sayd bin Majid at an exorbitant
+price, sufficient to bring him to Unyanyembe and the sea-coast.
+But how long would he have been compelled to sit down at Ujiji,
+waiting and waiting for the goods that were said to be at
+Unyanyembe, a prey to high expectations, hoping day after day
+that the war would end--hoping week after week to hear that
+his goods were coming?  Who knows how long his weak health had
+borne up against the several disappointments to which he would be
+subjected?
+
+Though it was with all due deference to Dr. Livingstone's vast
+experience as a traveller, I made bold to suggest the following
+courses to him, either of which he could adopt:
+
+Ist. To go home, and take the rest he so well deserved and, as he
+appeared then, to be so much in need of.
+
+2nd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his goods, and enlist
+pagazis sufficient to enable him to travel anywhere, either to
+Manyuema or Rua, and settle the Nile problem, which he said he
+was in a fair way of doing.
+
+3rd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, enlist men,
+and try to join Sir Samuel Baker, either by going to Muanza, and
+sailing through Ukerewe or Victoria N'Yanza in my boats--which I
+should put up--to Mtesa's palace at Uganda, thus passing by
+Mirambo and Swaruru of Usui, who would rob him if he took the
+usual caravan road to Uganda; thence from Mtesa to Kamrasi,
+King of Unyoro, where he would of course hear of the great white
+man who was said to be with a large force of men at Gondokoro.
+
+4th. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, enlist men,
+and return to Ujiji, and back to Manyuema by way of Uguhha.
+
+5th. To proceed by way of the Rusizi through Ruanda, and so on
+to Itara, Unyoro, and Baker.
+
+For either course, whichever he thought most expedient, I and my
+men would assist him as escort and carriers, to the best of our
+ability.  If he should elect to go home, I informed him I should
+be proud to escort him, and consider myself subject to his
+commands--travelling only when he desired, and camping only when
+he gave the word.
+
+6th. The last course which I suggested to him, was to permit me to
+escort him to Unyanyembe, where he could receive his own goods,
+and where I could deliver up to him a large supply of first-class
+cloth and beads, guns and ammunition, cooking utensils, clothing,
+boats, tents, &c., and where he could rest in a comfortable house,
+while I would hurry down to the coast, organise a new expedition
+composed of fifty or sixty faithful men, well armed, by whom I
+could send an additional supply of needful luxuries in the shape
+of creature comforts.
+
+After long consideration, he resolved to adopt the last course,
+as it appeared to him to be the most feasible one, and the best,
+though he did not hesitate to comment upon the unaccountable apathy
+of his agent at Zanzibar, which had caused him so much trouble and
+vexation, and weary marching of hundreds of miles.
+
+Our ship--though nothing more than a cranky canoe hollowed out of
+a noble mvule tree of Ugoma--was an African Argo bound on a nobler
+enterprise than its famous Grecian prototype.  We were bound upon
+no mercenary errand, after no Golden Fleece, but perhaps to
+discover a highway for commerce which should bring the ships of
+the Nile up to Ujiji, Usowa, and far Marungu.  We did not know
+what we might discover on our voyage to the northern head of
+the Tanganika; we supposed that we should find the Rusizi to be
+an effluent of the Tanganika, flowing down to the Albert or the
+Victoria N'Yanza.  We were told by natives and Arabs that the
+Rusizi ran out of the lake.
+
+Sayd bin Majid had stated that his canoe would carry twenty-five
+men, and 3,500 lbs. of ivory.  Acting upon this information, we
+embarked twenty-five men, several of whom had stored away bags of
+salt for the purposes of trade with the natives; but upon pushing
+off from the shore near Ujiji, we discovered the boat was too
+heavily laden, and was down to the gunwale.  Returning in-shore,
+we disembarked six men, and unloaded the bags of salt, which left
+us with sixteen rowers, Selim, Ferajji the cook, and the two
+Wajiji guides.
+
+Having thus properly trimmed our boat we again pushed off, and
+steered her head for Bangwe Island, which was distant four or
+five miles from the Bunder of Ujiji.  While passing this island
+the guides informed us that the Arabs and Wajiji took shelter on
+it during an incursion of the Watuta--which took place some years
+ago--when they came and invaded Ujiji, and massacred several of
+the inhabitants.  Those who took refuge on the island were the
+only persons who escaped the fire and sword with which the Watuta
+had visited Ujiji.
+
+After passing the island and following the various bends and
+indentations of the shore, we came in sight of the magnificent bay
+of Kigoma, which strikes one at once as being an excellent harbor
+from the variable winds which blow over the Tanganika.  About
+10 A.M. we drew in towards the village of Kigoma, as the east wind
+was then rising, and threatened to drive us to sea.  With those
+travelling parties who are not in much hurry Kigoma is always
+the first port for canoes bound north from Ujiji.  The next
+morning at dawn we struck tent, stowed baggage, cooked, and
+drank coffee, and set off northward again.
+
+The lake was quite calm; its waters, of a dark-green colour,
+reflected the serene blue sky above.  The hippopotami came up
+to breathe in alarmingly close proximity to our canoe, and then
+plunged their heads again, as if they were playing hide-and-seek
+with us.  Arriving opposite the high wooded hills of Bemba, and
+being a mile from shore, we thought it a good opportunity to sound
+the depth of the water, whose colour seemed to indicate great depth.
+We found thirty-five fathoms at this place.
+
+Our canoeing of this day was made close in-shore, with a range of
+hills, beautifully wooded and clothed with green grass, sloping
+abruptly, almost precipitously, into the depths of the fresh-water
+sea, towering immediately above us, and as we rounded the several
+capes or points, roused high expectations of some new wonder, or
+some exquisite picture being revealed as the deep folds disclosed
+themselves to us.  Nor were we disappointed.  The wooded hills with
+a wealth of boscage of beautiful trees, many of which were in
+bloom, and crowned with floral glory, exhaling an indescribably
+sweet fragrance, lifting their heads in varied contour--one
+pyramidal, another a truncated cone; one table-topped, another
+ridgy, like the steep roof of a church; one a glorious heave with
+an even outline, another jagged and savage-interested us
+considerably; and the pretty pictures, exquisitely pretty, at
+the head of the several bays, evoked many an exclamation of
+ admiration.  It was the most natural thing in the world that
+I should feel deepest admiration for these successive pictures
+of quiet scenic beauty, but the Doctor had quite as much to say
+about them as I had myself, though, as one might imagine, satiated
+with pictures of this kind far more beautiful--far more wonderful--
+he should long ago have expended all his powers of admiring scenes
+in nature.
+
+From Bagamoyo to Ujiji I had seen nothing to compare to them--none
+of these fishing settlements under the shade of a grove of palms
+and plantains, banians and mimosa, with cassava gardens to the
+right and left of palmy forests, and patches of luxuriant grain
+looking down upon a quiet bay, whose calm waters at the early morn
+reflected the beauties of the hills which sheltered them from the
+rough and boisterous tempests that so often blew without.
+
+The fishermen evidently think themselves comfortably situated.
+The lake affords them all the fish they require, more than enough
+to eat, and the industrious a great deal to sell.  The steep slopes
+of the hills, cultivated by the housewives, contribute plenty of
+grain, such as dourra and Indian corn, besides cassava, ground-nuts
+or peanuts, and sweet potatoes.  The palm trees afford oil, and the
+plantains an abundance of delicious fruit.  The ravines and deep
+gullies supply them with the tall shapely trees from which they
+cut out their canoes.  Nature has supplied them bountifully with
+all that a man's heart or stomach can desire.  It is while looking
+at what seems both externally and internally complete and perfect
+happiness that the thought occurs--how must these people sigh,
+when driven across the dreary wilderness that intervenes between
+the lake country and the sea-coast, for such homes as these!--
+those unfortunates who, bought by the Arabs for a couple of doti,
+are taken away to Zanzibar to pick cloves, or do hamal work!
+
+As we drew near Niasanga, our second camp, the comparison between
+the noble array of picturesque hills and receding coves, with
+their pastoral and agricultural scenes, and the shores of old
+Pontus, was very great.  A few minutes before we hauled our canoe
+ashore, two little incidents occurred.  I shot an enormous
+dog-faced monkey, which measured from nose to end of tail 4 feet
+9 inches; the face was 8 1/2 inches long, its body weighed
+about 100 lbs.  It had no mane or tuft at end of tail, but
+the body was covered with long wiry hair.  Numbers of these
+specimens were seen, as well as of the active cat-headed and
+long-tailed smaller ones.  The other was the sight of a large
+lizard, about 2 ft. 6 in. long, which waddled into cover before
+we had well noticed it.  The Doctor thought it to be the Monitor
+terrestris.
+
+We encamped under a banian tree; our surroundings were the now
+light-grey waters of the Tanganika, an amphitheatral range of
+hills, and the village of Niasanga, situated at the mouth of the
+rivulet Niasanga, with its grove of palms, thicket of plantains,
+and plots of grain and cassava fields.  Near our tent were about
+half-a-dozen canoes, large and small, belonging to the villagers.
+Our tent door fronted the glorious expanse of fresh water,
+inviting the breeze, and the views of distant Ugoma and Ukaramba,
+and the Island of Muzimu, whose ridges appeared of a deep-blue
+colour.  At our feet were the clean and well-washed pebbles, borne
+upward into tiny lines and heaps by the restless surf.  A search
+amongst these would reveal to us the material of the mountain
+heaps which rose behind and on our right and left; there was schist,
+conglomerate sandstone, a hard white clay, an ochreish clay
+containing much iron, polished quartz, &c.  Looking out of our tent,
+we could see a line on each side of us of thick tall reeds, which
+form something like a hedge between the beach and the cultivated
+area around Niasanga.  Among birds seen here, the most noted were
+the merry wagtails, which are regarded as good omens and
+messengers of peace by the natives, and any harm done unto them
+is quickly resented, and is fineable.  Except to the mischievously
+inclined, they offer no inducement to commit violence.  On landing,
+they flew to meet us, balancing themselves in the air in front,
+within easy reach of our hands.  The other birds were crows,
+turtle-doves, fish-hawks, kingfishers, ibis nigra and ibis
+religiosa, flocks of whydah birds, geese, darters, paddy birds,
+kites, and eagles.
+
+At this place the Doctor suffered from dysentery--it is his only
+weak point, he says; and, as I afterwards found, it is a frequent
+complaint with him.  Whatever disturbed his mind, or any
+irregularity in eating, was sure to end in an attack of dysentery,
+which had lately become of a chronic character.
+
+The third day of our journey on the Tanganika brought us to Zassi
+River and village, after a four hours' pull.  Along the line of
+road the mountains rose 2,000 and 2,500 feet above the waters of
+the lake.  I imagined the scenery getting more picturesque and
+animated at every step, and thought it by far lovelier than
+anything seen near Lake George or on the Hudson.  The cosy nooks
+at the head of the many small bays constitute most admirable
+pictures, filled in as they are with the ever-beautiful feathery
+palms and broad green plantain fronds.  These nooks have all been
+taken possession of by fishermen, and their conically beehive-
+shaped huts always peep from under the frondage.  The shores are
+thus extremely populous; every terrace, small plateau, and bit of
+level ground is occupied.
+
+Zassi is easily known by a group of conical hills which rise near
+by, and are called Kirassa.  Opposite to these, at the distance of
+about a mile from shore, we sounded, and obtained 35 fathoms, as on
+the previous day.  Getting out a mile further, I let go the whole
+length of my line, 115 fathoms, and obtained no bottom.  In drawing
+it up again the line parted, and I lost the lead, with three-fourths
+of the line.  The Doctor stated, apropos of this, that he had
+sounded opposite the lofty Kabogo, south of Ujiji, and obtained the
+great depth of 300 fathoms.  He also lost his lead and 100 fathoms
+of his line, but he had nearly 900 fathoms left, and this was in
+the canoes.  We hope to use this long sounding line in going across
+from the eastern to the western shore.
+
+On the fourth day we arrived at Nyabigma, a sandy island in
+Urundi.  We had passed the boundary line between Ujiji and Urundi
+half-an-hour before arriving at Nyabigma.  The Mshala River is
+considered by both nations to be the proper divisional line;
+though there are parties of Warundi who have emigrated beyond the
+frontier into Ujiji; for instance, the Mutware and villagers of
+populous Kagunga, distant an hour north from Zassi.  There are also
+several small parties of Wajiji, who have taken advantage of the
+fine lands in the deltas of the Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Luaba
+Rivers, the two first of which enter the Tanganika in this bay,
+near the head of which Nyabigma is situated.
+
+From Nyabigma, a pretty good view of the deep curve in the great
+mountain range which stretches from Cape Kazinga and terminates at
+Cape Kasofu, may be obtained--a distance of twenty or twenty-five
+miles.  It is a most imposing scene, this great humpy, ridgy, and
+irregular line of mountains.  Deep ravines and chasms afford outlets
+to the numerous streams and rivers which take their rise in the
+background; the pale fleecy ether almost always shrouds its summit.
+From its base extends a broad alluvial plain, rich beyond description,
+teeming with palms and plantains, and umbrageous trees.  Villages
+are seen in clusters everywhere.  Into this alluvial plain run the
+Luaba, or Ruaba River, on the north side of Cape Kitunda, and the
+Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Mshala Rivers, on the south side of the cape.
+All the deltas of rivers emptying into the Tanganika are hedged
+in on all sides with a thick growth of matete, a gigantic species
+of grass, and papyrus.  In some deltas, as that of Luaba and
+Kasokwe, morasses have been formed, in which the matete and papyrus
+jungle is impenetrable.  In the depths of them are quiet and deep
+pools, frequented by various aquatic birds, such as geese, ducks,
+snipes, widgeons, kingfishers and ibis, cranes and storks, and
+pelicans.  To reach their haunts is, however, a work of great
+difficulty to the sportsman in quest of game; a work often
+attended with great danger, from the treacherous nature of these
+morasses, as well as from the dreadful attacks of fever which,
+in these regions, invariably follow wet feet and wet clothes.
+
+At Nyabigma we prepared, by distributing ten rounds of ammunition
+to each of our men, for a tussle with the Warundi of two stages
+ahead, should they invite it by a too forward exhibition of their
+prejudice to strangers.
+
+At dawn of the fifth day we quitted the haven of Nyabigma Island,
+and in less than an hour had arrived off Cape Kitunda.  This cape
+is a low platform of conglomerate sandstone, extending for about
+eight miles from the base of the great mountain curve which gives
+birth to the Luaba and its sister streams.  Crossing the deep bay,
+at the head of which is the delta of the Luaba, we came to Cape
+Kasofu.  Villages are numerous in this vicinity.  From hence we
+obtained a view of a series of points or capes, Kigongo, Katunga,
+and Buguluka, all of which we passed before coming to a halt at
+the pretty position of Mukungu.
+
+At Mukungu, where we stopped on the fifth day, we were asked for
+honga, or tribute.  The cloth and beads upon which we subsisted
+during our lake voyage were mine, but the Doctor, being the elder
+of the two, more experienced, and the "big man" of the party, had
+the charge of satisfying all such demands.  Many and many a time
+had I gone through the tedious and soul-wearying task of settling
+the honga, and I was quite curious to see how the great traveller
+would perform the work.
+
+The Mateko (a man inferior to a Mutware) of Mukungu asked for two
+and a half doti.  This was the extent of the demand, which he made
+known to us a little after dark.  The Doctor asked if nothing had
+been brought to us.  He was answered, "No, it was too late to get
+anything now; but, if we paid the honga, the Mateko would be ready
+to give us something when we came back."  Livingstone, upon hearing
+this, smiled, and the Mateko being then and there in front of him,
+he said to him.  "Well, if you can't get us anything now, and
+intend to give something when we return, we had better keep the
+honga until then."  The Mateko was rather taken aback at this,
+and demurred to any such proposition.  Seeing that he was
+dissatisfied, we urged him to bring one sheep--one little sheep--
+for our stomachs were nearly empty, having been waiting more than
+half a day for it.  The appeal was successful, for the old man
+hastened, and brought us a lamb and a three-gallon pot of sweet
+but strong zogga, or palm toddy, and in return the Doctor
+gave him two and a half doti of cloth.  The lamb was killed, and,
+our digestions being good, its flesh agreed with us; but, alas,
+for the effects of zogga, or palm toddy!  Susi, the invaluable
+adjunct of Dr. Livingstone, and Bombay, the headman of my
+caravan, were the two charged with watching the canoe; but, having
+imbibed too freely of this intoxicating toddy, they slept heavily,
+and in the morning the Doctor and I had to regret the loss of
+several valuable and indispensable things; among which may be
+mentioned the Doctor's 900-fathom sounding-line, 500 rounds of pin,
+rim, and central-fire cartridges for my arms, and ninety musket
+bullets, also belonging to me.  Besides these, which were
+indispensable in hostile Warundi, a large bag of flour and the
+Doctor's entire stock of white sugar were stolen.  This was the
+third time that my reliance in Bombay's trustworthiness resulted
+in a great loss to me, and for the ninety-ninth time I had to
+regret bitterly having placed such entire confidence in Speke's
+loud commendation of him.  It was only the natural cowardice of
+ignorant thieves that prevented the savages from taking the boat
+and its entire contents, together with Bombay and Susi as slaves.
+I can well imagine the joyful surprise which must have been
+called forth at the sight and exquisite taste of the Doctor's
+sugar, and the wonder with which they must have regarded the
+strange ammunition of the Wasungu.  It is to be sincerely hoped
+that they did not hurt themselves with the explosive bullets and
+rim cartridges through any ignorance of the nature of the deadly
+contents; in which ease the box and its contents would prove a
+very Pandora's casket.
+
+Much grieved at our loss, we set off on the sixth day at the usual
+hour on our watery journey.  We coasted close to the several low
+headlands formed by the rivers Kigwena, Kikuma, and Kisunwe; and
+when any bay promised to be interesting, steered the canoe
+according to its indentations.  While travelling on the water--each
+day brought forth similar scenes--on our right rose the mountains
+of Urundi, now and then disclosing the ravines through which the
+several rivers and streams issued into the great lake; at their
+base were the alluvial plains, where flourished the oil-palm and
+grateful plantain, while scores of villages were grouped under
+their shade.  Now and then we passed long narrow strips of pebbly
+or sandy beach, whereon markets were improvised for selling fish,
+and the staple products of the respective communities.  Then we
+passed broad swampy morasses, formed by the numerous streams
+which the mountains discharged, where the matete and papyrus
+flourished.  Now the mountains approached to the water, their sides
+descending abruptly to the water's edge; then they receded into
+deep folds, at the base of which was sure to be seen an alluvial
+plain from one to eight miles broad.  Almost constantly we
+observed canoes being punted vigorously close to the surf,
+in fearless defiance of a catastrophe, such as a capsize and
+gobbling-up by voracious crocodiles.  Sometimes we sighted a canoe
+a short distance ahead of us; whereupon our men, with song and
+chorus, would exert themselves to the utmost to overtake it.
+Upon observing our efforts, the natives would bend themselves to
+their tasks, and paddling standing and stark naked, give us ample
+opportunities for studying at our leisure comparative anatomy.
+Or we saw a group of fishermen lazily reclining in _puris naturalibus_
+on the beach, regarding with curious eye the canoes as they passed
+their neighbourhood; then we passed a flotilla of canoes, their
+owners sitting quietly in their huts, busily plying the rod and
+hook, or casting their nets, or a couple of men arranging their
+long drag nets close in shore for a haul; or children sporting
+fearlessly in the water, with their mothers looking on approvingly
+from under the shade of a tree, from which I infer that there are
+not many crocodiles in the lake, except in the neighbourhood of
+the large rivers.
+
+After passing the low headland of Kisunwe, formed by the Kisunwe
+River, we came in view of Murembwe Cape, distant about four or five
+miles: the intervening ground being low land, a sandy and pebbly
+beach.  Close to the beach are scores of villages, while the
+crowded shore indicates the populousness of the place beyond.
+About half way between Cape Kisunwe and Murembwe, is a cluster of
+villages called Bikari, which has a mutware who is in the habit of
+taking honga.  As we were rendered unable to cope for any length
+of time with any mischievously inclined community, all villages
+having a bad reputation with the Wajiji were avoided by us.
+But even the Wajiji guides were sometimes mistaken, and led us
+more than once into dangerous places.  The guides evidently had
+no objections to halt at Bikari, as it was the second camp from
+Mukungu; because with them a halt in the cool shade of plaintains
+was infinitely preferable to sitting like carved pieces of wood
+in a cranky canoe.  But before they stated their objections and
+preferences, the Bikari people called to us in a loud voice to
+come ashore, threatening us with the vengeance of the great Wami
+if we did not halt.  As the voices were anything but siren-like,
+we obstinately refused to accede to the request.  Finding threats
+of no avail, they had recourse to stones, and, accordingly, flung
+them at us in a most hearty manner.  As one came within a foot of
+my arm, I suggested that a bullet be sent in return in close
+proximity to their feet; but Livingstone, though he said nothing,
+yet showed plainly enough that he did not quite approve of this.
+As these demonstrations of hostility were anything but welcome,
+and as we saw signs of it almost every time we came opposite a
+village, we kept on our way until we came to Murembwe Point,
+which, being a delta of a river of the same name, was well
+protected by a breadth of thorny jungle, spiky cane, and a thick
+growth of reed and papyrus, from which the boldest Mrundi might
+well shrink, especially if he called to mind that beyond this
+inhospitable swamp were the guns of the strangers his like had
+so rudely challenged.  We drew our canoe ashore here, and, on
+a limited area of clean sand, Ferajji, our rough-and-ready cook,
+lit his fire, and manufactured for us a supply of most delicious
+Mocha coffee.  Despite the dangers which still beset us, we were
+quite happy, and seasoned our meal with a little moral philosophy,
+which lifted us unconsciously into infinitely superior beings to
+the pagans by whom we were surrounded--upon whom we now looked down,
+under the influence of Mocha coffee and moral philosophy, with
+calm contempt, not unmixed with a certain amount of compassion.
+The Doctor related some experiences he had had among people of
+similar disposition, but did not fail to ascribe them, with the
+wisdom of a man of ripe experiences, to the unwise conduct of
+the Arabs and half-castes; in this opinion I unreservedly concur.
+
+From Murembwe Point, having finished our coffee and ended our
+discourse on ethics, we proceeded on our voyage, steering for Cape
+Sentakeyi, which, though it was eight or ten miles away, we hoped
+to make before dark.  The Wangwana pulled with right good will, but
+ten hours went by, and night was drawing near, and we were still
+far from Sentakeyi.  As it was a fine moonlight night, and we were
+fully alive to the dangerous position in which we might find
+ourselves, they consented to pull an hour or two more.  About 1 P.M.,
+we pulled in shore for a deserted spot--a clean shelf of sand,
+about thirty feet long by ten deep, from which a clay bank rose
+about ten or twelve feet above, while on each side there were
+masses of disintegrated rock.  Here we thought, that by preserving
+some degree of silence, we might escape observation, and consequent
+annoyance, for a few hours, when, being rested, we might continue
+our journey.  Our kettle was boiling for tea, and the men had built
+a little fire for themselves, and had filled their black earthen pot
+with water for porridge, when our look-outs perceived dark forms
+creeping towards our bivouac.  Being hailed, they at once came
+forward, and saluted us with the native "Wake."  Our guides
+explained that we were Wangwana, and intended to camp until morning,
+when, if they had anything to sell, we should be glad to trade with
+them.  They said they were rejoiced to hear this, and after they had
+exchanged a few words more--during which time we observed that they
+were taking mental notes of the camp--they went away.  Upon leaving,
+they promised to return in the morning with food, and make friends
+with us.  While drinking our tea, the look-outs warned us of the
+approach of a second party, which went through the same process of
+saluting and observing as the first had done.  These also went away,
+over-exuberant, as I thought, and were shortly succeeded by a
+third party, who came and went as the others had.  From all this we
+inferred that the news was spreading rapidly through the villages
+about, and we had noticed two canoes passing backwards and forwards
+with rather more haste than we deemed usual or necessary.  We had
+good cause to be suspicious; it is not customary for people (at
+least, between Ujiji and Zanzibar) to be about visiting and
+saluting after dark, under any pretence; it is not permitted to
+persons to prowl about camp after dark without being shot at; and
+this going backward and forward, this ostentatious exuberance of
+joy at the arrival of a small party of Wangwana, which in many
+parts of Urundi would be regarded as a very common event, was
+altogether very suspicious.  While the Doctor and I were arriving
+at the conclusion that these movements were preliminary to or
+significant of hostility, a fourth body, very boisterous and loud,
+came and visited us.  Our supper had been by this time despatched,
+and we thought it high time to act.  The fourth party having gone
+with extravagant manifestations of delight, the men were hurried
+into the canoe, and, when all were seated, and the look-outs embarked,
+we quietly pushed off, but not a moment too soon.  As the canoe
+was gliding from the darkened light that surrounded us, I called
+the Doctor's attention to several dark forms; some of whom were
+crouching behind the rocks on our right, and others scrambling
+over them to obtain good or better positions; at the same time
+people were approaching from the left of our position, in the
+same suspicious way; and directly a voice hailed us from the
+top of the clay bank overhanging the sandy shelf where we had
+lately been resting.  "Neatly done," cried the Doctor, as we
+were shooting through the water, leaving the discomfited
+would-be robbers behind us.  Here, again, my hand was stayed from
+planting a couple of good shots, as a warning to them in future
+from molesting strangers, by the more presence of the Doctor,
+who, as I thought, if it were actually necessary, would not
+hesitate to give the word.
+
+After pulling six hours more, during which we had rounded Cape
+Sentakeyi, we stopped at the small fishing village of Mugeyo, where
+we were permitted to sleep unmolested.  At dawn we continued our
+journey, and about 8 A.M. arrived at the village of the friendly
+Mutware of Magala.  We had pulled for eighteen hours at a stretch,
+which, at the rate of two miles and a half per hour, would make
+forty-five miles.  Taking bearings from our camp at Cape Magala,
+one of the most prominent points in travelling north from Ujiji, we
+found that the large island of Muzimu, which had been in sight ever
+since rounding Cape Bangwe, near Ujiji Bunder, bore about
+south-south-west, and that the western shore had considerably
+approached to the eastern; the breadth of the lake being at this
+point about eight or ten miles.  We had a good view of the western
+highlands, which seemed to be of an average height, about 3,000
+feet above the lake.  Luhanga Peak, rising a little to the north of
+west from Magala, might be about 500 feet higher; and Sumburizi, a
+little north of Luhanga, where lived Mruta, Sultan of Uvira, the
+country opposite to this part of Urundi, about 300 feet higher
+than the neighbouring heights.  Northward from Magala Cape the lake
+streamed away between two chains of mountains; both meeting in a
+point about thirty miles north of us.
+
+The Warundi of Magala were very civil, and profound starers.  They
+flocked around the tent door, and most pertinaciously gazed on us,
+as if we were subjects of most intense interest, but liable to
+sudden and eternal departure.  The Mutware came to see us late in
+the afternoon, dressed with great pomp.  He turned out to be a boy
+whom I had noticed in the crowd of gazers for his good looks and
+fine teeth, which he showed, being addicted to laughing
+continually.  There was no mistaking him, though he was now
+decorated with many ivory ornaments, with necklaces, and with
+heavy brass bracelets and iron wire anklets.  Our admiration of
+him was reciprocated; and, in return for our two doti of cloth and
+a fundo of samsam, he gave a fine fat and broad-tailed sheep,
+and a pot of milk.  In our condition both were extremely acceptable.
+
+At Magala we heard of a war raging between Mukamba, for whose
+country we were bound, and Warumashanya, a Sultan of an adjoining
+district; and we were advised that, unless we intended to assist
+one of these chiefs against the other, it would be better for us to
+return.  But, as we had started to solve the problem of the Rusizi
+River, such considerations had no weight with us.
+
+On the eighth morning from leaving Ujiji we bade farewell to the
+hospitable people of Magala, and set off for Mukamba's country,
+which was in view.  Soon after passing the boundary between Urundi
+proper, and what is known as Usige, a storm from the south-west
+arose; and the fearful yawing of our canoe into the wave trough
+warned us from proceeding further; so we turned her head for Kisuka
+village, about four miles north, where Mugere, in Usige, begins.
+
+At Kisuka a Mgwana living with Mukamba came to see us, and gave us
+details of the war between Mukamba and Warumashanya, from which it
+seemed that these two chiefs were continually at loggerheads.  It
+is a tame way of fighting, after all.  One chief makes a raid into
+the other's country, and succeeds in making off with a herd of
+cattle, killing one or two men who have been surprised.  Weeks, or
+perhaps months elapse before the other retaliates, and effects a
+capture in a similar way, and then a balance is struck in which
+neither is the gainer.  Seldom do they attack each other with
+courage and hearty goodwill, the constitution of the African
+being decidedly against any such energetic warfare.
+
+This Mgwana, further, upon being questioned, gave us information
+far more interesting, viz., about the Rusizi.  He told us
+positively, with the air of a man who knew all about it, and as
+if anybody who doubted him might well be set down as an egregious
+ass, that the Rusizi River flowed out of the lake, away to Suna's
+(Mtesa's) country.  "Where else could it flow to?" he asked.  The
+Doctor was inclined to believe it, or, perhaps he was more inclined
+to let it rest as stated until our own eyes should confirm it.  I
+was more inclined to doubt, as I told the Doctor; first, it was
+too good to be true; second, the fellow was too enthusiastic upon
+a subject that could not possibly interest him.  His "Barikallahs"
+and "Inshallahs" were far too fervid; his answers too much in
+accordance with our wishes.  The Doctor laid great stress on the
+report of a Mgwana he met far south, who stated that the grandfather
+or father of Rumanika, present King of Karagwah, had thought of
+excavating the bed of the Kitangule River, in order that his canoes
+might go to Ujiji to open a trade.  From this, I imagine, coinciding
+as it did with his often-expressed and present firm belief that the
+waters of the Tanganika had an outlet somewhere, the Doctor was
+partial to the report of the Mgwana; but as we proceed we shall see
+how all this will end.
+
+On the ninth morning from Ujiji, about two hours after sunrise, we
+passed the broad delta of the Mugere, a river which gives its name
+also to the district on the eastern shore ruled over by Mukamba.
+We had come directly opposite the most southern of its three
+mouths, when we found quite a difference in the colour of the water.
+An almost straight line, drawn east and west from the mouth would
+serve well to mark off the difference that existed between the waters.
+On the south side was pure water of a light green, on the north side
+it was muddy, and the current could be distinctly seen flowing north.
+Soon after passing the first mouth we came to a second, and then a
+third mouth, each only a few yards broad, but each discharging
+sufficient water to permit our following the line of the currents
+several rods north beyond the respective mouths.
+
+Beyond the third mouth of the Mugere a bend disclosed itself, with
+groups of villages beyond on its bank.  These were Mukamba's, and
+in one of them lived Mukamba, the chief.  The natives had yet never
+seen a white man, and, of course, as soon as we landed we were
+surrounded by a large concourse, all armed with long spears--the
+only weapon visible amongst them save a club-stick, and here and
+there a hatchet.
+
+We were shown into a hut, which the Doctor and I shared between
+us.  What followed on that day I have but a dim recollection,
+having been struck down by fever--the first since leaving
+Unyanyembe.  I dimly recollect trying to make out what age Mukamba
+might be, and noting that he was good-looking withal, and
+kindly-disposed towards us.  And during the intervals of agony and
+unconsciousness, I saw, or fancied I saw, Livingstone's form moving
+towards me, and felt, or fancied I felt, Livingstone's hand
+tenderly feeling my hot head and limbs.  I had suffered several
+fevers between Bagamoyo and Unyanyembe, without anything or anybody
+to relieve me of the tedious racking headache and pain, or to
+illumine the dark and gloomy prospect which must necessarily
+surround the bedside of the sick and solitary traveller.  But
+though this fever, having enjoyed immunity from it for three
+months, was more severe than usual, I did not much regret its
+occurrence, since I became the recipient of the very tender and
+fatherly kindness of the good man whose companion I now found
+myself.
+
+The next morning, having recovered slightly from the fever, when
+Mukamba came with a present of an ox, a sheep, and a goat, I was
+able to attend to the answers which he gave to the questions about
+the Rusizi River and the head of the lake.  The ever cheerful and
+enthusiastic Mgwana was there also, and he was not a whit abashed,
+when, through him, the chief told us that the Rusizi, joined by
+the Ruanda, or Luanda, at a distance of two days' journey by
+water, or one day by land from the head of the lake, flowed INTO
+the lake.
+
+Thus our hopes, excited somewhat by the positive and repeated
+assurances that the river flowed out away towards Karagwah,
+collapsed as speedily as they were raised.
+
+We paid Mukamba the honga, consisting of nine doti and nine fundo
+of samsam, lunghio, muzurio n'zige.  The printed handkerchiefs,
+which I had in abundance at Unyanyembe, would have gone well here.
+After receiving his present, the chief introduced his son, a tall
+youth of eighteen or thereabouts, to the Doctor, as a would-be son
+of the Doctor; but, with a good-natured laugh, the Doctor scouted
+all such relationship with him, as it was instituted only for the
+purpose of drawing more cloth out of him.  Mukamba took it in good
+part, and did not insist on getting more.
+
+Our second evening at Mukamba's, Susi, the Doctor's servant, got
+gloriously drunk, through the chief's liberal and profuse gifts
+of pombe.  Just at dawn neat morning I was awakened by hearing
+several sharp, crack-like sounds.  I listened, and I found the
+noise was in our hut.  It was caused by the Doctor, who, towards
+midnight, had felt some one come and lie down by his side on the
+same bed, and, thinking it was me, he had kindly made room, and
+laid down on the edge of the bed.  But in the morning, feeling
+rather cold, he had been thoroughly awakened, and, on rising on
+his elbow to see who his bed-fellow was, he discovered, to his
+great astonishment, that it was no other than his black servant,
+Susi, who taking possession of his blankets, and folding them about
+himself most selfishly, was occupying almost the whole bed.  The
+Doctor, with that gentleness characteristic of him, instead of
+taking a rod, had contented himself with slapping Susi on the back,
+saying, "Get up, Susi, will you?  You are in my bed.  How dare you,
+sir, get drunk in this way, after I have told you so often not to.
+Get up.  You won't?  Take that, and that, and that."  Still Susi
+slept and grunted; so the slapping continued, until even Susi's
+thick hide began to feel it, and he was thoroughly awakened to the
+sense of his want of devotion and sympathy for his master in the
+usurping of even his master's bed.  Susi looked very much
+crestfallen after this exposé of his infirmity before the "little
+master," as I was called.
+
+The next day at dusk--Mukamba having come to bid us good-bye, and
+requested that as soon as we reached his brother Ruhinga, whose
+country was at the head of the lake, we would send our canoe back
+for him, and that in the meanwhile we should leave two of our men
+with him, with their guns, to help defend him in case Warumashanya
+should attack him as soon as we were gone--we embarked and pulled
+across.  In nine hours we had arrived at the head of the lake in
+Mugihewa, the country of Ruhinga; Mukamba's elder brother.  In
+looking back to where we had come from we perceived that we had
+made a diagonal cut across from south-east to north-west, instead
+of having made a direct east and west course; or, in other words,
+from Mugere--which was at least ten miles from the northernmost
+point of the eastern shore--we had come to Mugihewa, situated at
+the northernmost point of the western shore.  Had we continued
+along the eastern shore, and so round the northern side of the lake,
+we should have passed by Mukanigi, the country of Warumashanya,
+and Usumbura of Simveh, his ally and friend.  But by making a
+diagonal course, as just described, we had arrived at the extreme
+head of the lake without any difficulty.
+
+The country in which we now found ourselves, Mugihewa, is situated
+in the delta of the Rusizi River.  It is an extremely flat
+country, the highest part of which is not ten feet above the lake,
+with numerous depressions in it overgrown with the rankest of
+matete-grass and the tallest of papyrus, and pond-like hollows,
+filled with stagnant water, which emit malaria wholesale.  Large
+herds of cattle are reared on it; for where the ground is not
+covered with marshy plants it produces rich, sweet grass.  The sheep
+and goats, especially the former, are always in good condition; and
+though they are not to be compared with English or American sheep,
+they are the finest I have seen in Africa.  Numerous villages are
+seen on this land because the intervening spaces are not occupied
+with the rank and luxuriant jungle common in other parts of Africa.
+Were it not for the Euphorbia kolquall of Abyssinia--which some
+chief has caused to be planted as a defence round the villages--
+one might see from one end of Mugihewa to the other.  The waters
+along the head of the lake, from the western to the eastern shores,
+swarm with crocodiles.  From the banks, I counted ten heads of
+crocodiles, and the Rusizi, we were told, was full of them.
+
+Ruhinga, who came to see us soon after we had taken up our quarters
+in his village, was a most amiable man, who always contrived to see
+something that excited his risibility; though older by five or
+six years perhaps--he said he was a hundred years old--than Mukamba,
+he was not half so dignified, nor regarded with so much admiration
+by his people as his younger brother.  Ruhinga had a better
+knowledge, however, of the country than Mukamba, and an admirable
+memory, and was able to impart his knowledge of the country
+intelligently.  After he had done the honours as chief to us--
+presented us with an ox and a sheep, milk and honey--we were not
+backward in endeavouring to elicit as much information as possible
+out of him.
+
+The summary of the information derived from Ruhinga may be stated
+as follows:
+
+The country bordering the head of the lake from Urundi proper,
+on the eastern shore, to Uvira on the western, is divided into the
+following districts:
+1st. Mugere, governed by Mukamba, through which issued into the lake
+the small rivers of Mugere and Mpanda.
+2nd. Mukanigi, governed by Warumashanya, which occupied the whole
+of the north-eastern head of the lake, through which issued into
+the lake the small rivers of Karindwa and Mugera wa Kanigi.
+3rd. On the eastern half of the district, at the head of the lake,
+was Usumbura, governed by Simveh, ally and friend of Warumashanya,
+extending to the eastern bank of the Rusizi.
+4th. Commencing from the western bank of the Rusizi, to the extreme
+north-western head of the lake, was Mugihewa--Ruhinga's country.
+5th. From Uvira on the west, running north past Mugihewa, and
+overlapping it on the north side as far as the hills of Chamati,
+was Ruwenga, also a country governed by Mukamba.  Beyond Ruwenga,
+from the hills of Chamati to the Ruanda River, was the country of
+Chamati.  West of Ruwenga, comprising all the mountains for two
+days' journey in that direction, was Uashi.  These are the
+smaller sub-divisions of what is commonly known as Ruwenga and
+Usige.  Ruwenga comprises the countries of Ruwenga and Mugihewa;
+Usige, the countries of Usumbura, Mukanigi, and Mugere.  But all
+these countries are only part and parcel of Urundi, which
+comprises all that country bordering the lake from Mshala River,
+on the eastern shore, to Uvira, on the western, extending over
+ten days' journey direct north from the head of the lake, and
+one month in a northeastern direction to Murukuko, the capital
+of Mwezi, Sultan of all Urundi.  Direct north of Urundi is Ruanda;
+also a very large country.
+
+The Rusizi River--according to Ruhinga--rose near a lake called
+Kivo, which he said is as long as from Mugihawa to Mugere, and
+as broad as from Mugihewa to Warumashanya's country, or, say
+eighteen miles in length by about eight in breadth.  The lake is
+surrounded by mountains on the western and northern sides: on the
+south-western side of one of these mountains issues the Rusizi--at
+first a small rapid stream; but as it proceeds towards the lake it
+receives the rivers Kagunissi, Kaburan, Mohira, Nyamagana,
+Nyakagunda, Ruviro, Rofubu, Kavimvira, Myove, Ruhuha, Mukindu,
+Sange, Rubirizi, Kiriba, and, lastly, the Ruanda River, which seems
+to be the largest of them all.  Kivo Lake is so called from the
+country in which it is situated.  On one side is Mutumbi (probably
+the Utumbi of Speke and Baker), on the west is Ruanda; on the east
+is Urundi.  The name of the chief of Kivo is Kwansibura.
+
+After so many minute details about the River Rusizi, it only
+remained for us to see it.  On the second morning of our arrival
+at Mugihewa we mustered ten strong paddlers, and set out to explore
+the head of the lake and the mouth of the Rusizi.  We found that
+the northern head of the lake was indented with seven broad bays,
+each from one and a half to three miles broad; that long broad
+spits of sand, overgrown with matete, separated each bay from the
+other.  The first, starting from west to east, at the broadest part,
+to the extreme southern point of Mugihewa, was about three miles
+broad, and served as a line of demarcation between Mukamba's district
+of Ruwenga and Mugihewa of Ruhinga; it was also two miles deep.
+The second bay was a mile from the southern extremity of Mugihewa
+to Ruhinga's village at the head of the bay, and it was a mile
+across to another spit of sand which was terminated by a small
+island.  The third bay stretched for nearly a mile to a long spit,
+at the end of which was another island, one and a quarter mile
+in length, and was the western side of the fourth bay, at the
+head of which was the delta of the Rusizi.  This fourth bay, at
+its base, was about three miles in depth, and penetrated half
+a mile further inland than any other.  Soundings indicated six
+feet deep, and the same depth was kept to within a few hundred
+yards of the principal mouth of the Rusizi.  The current was
+very sluggish; not more than a mile an hour.  Though we
+constantly kept our binocular searching for the river, we
+could not see the main channel until within 200 yards of it,
+and then only by watching by what outlet the fishing; canoes came
+out.  The bay at this point had narrowed from two miles to about
+200 yards in breadth.  Inviting a canoe to show us the way, a
+small flotilla of canoes preceded us, from the sheer curiosity
+of their owners.  We followed, and in a few minutes were ascending
+the stream, which was very rapid, though but about ten yards wide,
+and very shallow; not more than two feet deep.  We ascended about
+half a mile, the current being very strong, from six to eight miles
+an hour, and quite far enough to observe the nature of the stream
+at its embouchure.  We could see that it widened and spread out in
+a myriad of channels, rushing by isolated clumps of sedge and
+matete grass; and that it had the appearance of a swamp.  We had
+ascended the central, or main channel.  The western channel was
+about eight yards broad.  We observed, after we had returned to
+the bay, that the easternmost channel was about six yards broad,
+and about ten feet deep, but very sluggish.  We had thus examined
+each of its three mouths, and settled all doubts as to the Rusizi
+being an effluent or influent.  It was not necessary to ascend
+higher, there being nothing about the river itself to repay
+exploration of it.
+
+The question, "Was the Rusizi an effluent or an influent?" was
+answered for ever.  There was now no doubt any more on that point.
+In size it was not to be compared with the Malagarazi River,
+neither is it, or can it be, navigable for anything but the smallest
+canoes.  The only thing remarkable about it is that it abounds in
+crocodiles, but not one hippopotamus was seen; which may be taken
+as another evidence of its shallowness.  The bays to the east of
+the Rusizi are of the same conformation as those on the west.
+Carefully judging from the width of the several bays from point
+to point, and of the several spits which separate them, the breadth
+of the lake may be said to be about twelve or fourteen miles.  Had
+we contented ourselves with simply looking at the conformation,
+and the meeting of the eastern and western ranges, we should have
+said that the lake ended in a point, as Captain Speke has sketched
+it on his map.  But its exploration dissolved that idea.  Chamati
+Hill is the extreme northern termination of the western range,
+and seems, upon a superficial examination, to abut against the Ramata
+mountains of the eastern range, which are opposite Chamati; but a
+valley about a mile in breadth separates the two ranges, and
+through this valley the Rusizi flows towards the lake.*  Though
+Chamati terminates the western range, the eastern range continues
+for miles beyond, north-westerly.  After its issue from this broad
+gorge, the Rusizi runs seemingly in a broad and mighty stream,
+through a wide alluvial plain, its own formation, in a hundred
+channels, until, approaching the lake, it flows into it by three
+channels only, as above described.
+______________
+*  After the patient investigation of the North end of the Lake,
+and satisfying ourselves by personal observation that the Rusizi
+ran into the Lake, the native rumor which Sir Samuel Baker brought
+home that the Tanganika and the Albert N'Yanza have a water
+connection still finds many believers!
+______________
+
+I should not omit to state here, that though the Doctor and I have
+had to contend against the strong current of the Rusizi River, as
+it flowed swift and strong INTO the Tanganika, the Doctor still
+adheres to the conviction that, whatever part the Rusizi plays,
+there must be an outlet to the Tanganika somewhere, from the fact
+that all fresh-water lakes have outlets, The Doctor is able to state
+his opinions and reasons far better than I can find for him; and,
+lest I misconstrue the subject, I shall leave it until he has an
+opportunity to explain them himself; which his great knowledge of
+Africa will enable him to do with advantage.
+
+One thing is evident to me, and I believe to the Doctor, that Sir
+Samuel Baker will have to curtail the Albert N'Yanza by one, if
+not two degrees of latitude.  That well-known traveller has drawn
+his lake far into the territory of the Warundi, while Ruanda has
+been placed on the eastern side; whereas a large portion of it,
+if not all, should be placed north of what he has designated on
+his map as Usige.  The information of such an intelligent man as
+Ruhinga is not to be despised; for, if Lake Albert came within a
+hundred miles of the Tanganika, he would surely have heard of its
+existence, even if he had not seen it himself.  Originally he came
+from Mutumbi, and he has travelled from that country into Mugihewa,
+the district he now governs.  He has seen Mwezi, the great King of
+Urundi, and describes him as a man about forty years old, and as a
+very good man.
+
+Our work was now done; there was nothing more to detain us at
+Mugihewa.  Ruhinga had been exceedingly kind, and given us one
+ox after another to butcher and eat.  Mukamba had done the same.
+Their women had supplied us with an abundance of milk and butter,
+and we had now bounteous supplies of both.
+
+The Doctor had taken a series of observations for latitude and
+longitude; and Mugihewa was made out to be in 3 degrees 19 minutes
+S. latitude.
+
+On the 7th December, early in the morning, we left Mugihewa, and
+rowing past the southern extremity of the Katangara Islands, we
+approached the highlands of Uashi near the boundary line between
+Mukamba's country and Uvira.  The boundary line is supposed to be
+a wide ravine, in the depths of which is a grove of tall, beautiful,
+and straight-stemmed trees, out of which the natives make their canoes.
+
+Passing Kanyamabengu River, which issues into the lake close to the
+market-ground of Kirabula, the extreme point of Burton and Speke's
+explorations of the Tanganika, we steered south along the western
+shore of the lake for half an hour longer to Kavimba, where we
+halted to cook breakfast.
+
+The village where lived Mruta, the King of Uvira, was in sight of
+our encampment, and as we observed parties of men ascending and
+descending the mountains much more often than we thought augured
+good to ourselves, we determined to continue on our course south.
+Besides, there was a party of disconsolate-looking Wajiji here,
+who had been plundered only a few days before our arrival, for
+attempting, as the Wavira believed, to evade the honga payment.
+Such facts as these, and our knowledge of the general state of
+insecurity in the country, resulting from the many wars in which
+the districts of the Tanganika were engaged, determined us not to
+halt at Kavimba.
+
+We embarked quickly in our boat before the Wavira had collected
+themselves, and headed south against a strong gale, which came
+driving down on us from the south-west.  After a hard pull of about
+two hours in the teeth of the storm, which was rapidly rising, we
+pointed the head of the boat into a little quiet cove, almost
+hidden in tall reeds, and disembarked for the night.
+
+Cognizant of the dangers which surrounded us, knowing, that savage
+and implacable man was the worst enemy we had to fear, we employed
+our utmost energies in the construction of a stout fence of thorn
+bushes, and then sat down to supper after our work was done, and
+turned in to sleep; but not before we had posted watchmen to guard
+our canoe, lest the daring thieves of Uvira might abstract it, in
+which case we should have been in a pretty plight, and in most
+unenviable distress.
+
+At daybreak, leaving Kukumba Point after our humble breakfast of
+coffee, cheese, and dourra cakes was despatched, we steered south
+once more.  Our fires had attracted the notice of the sharp-eyed
+and suspicious fishermen of Kukumba; but our precautions and the
+vigilant watch we had set before retiring, had proved an effectual
+safeguard against the Kivira thieves.
+
+The western shores of the lake as we proceeded were loftier, and
+more bold than the wooded heights of Urundi and bearded knolls of
+Ujiji.  A back ridge--the vanguard of the mountains which rise
+beyond--disclosed itself between the serrated tops of the front
+line of mountains, which rose to a height of from 2,500 to 3,000
+feet above the lake.  Within the folds of the front line of
+mountains rise isolated hills of considerable magnitude, precipitous
+and abrupt, but scenically very picturesque.  The greater part of
+these hills have the rounded and smooth top, or are tabularly
+summited.  The ridge enfolding these hills shoots out, at intervals,
+promontorial projections of gradual sloping outlines, which on the
+map I have designated capes, or points.  When rounding these points,
+up went our compasses for the taking of bearings, and observing
+the directions of all prominent objects of interest.  Often these
+capes are formed by the alluvial plains, through which we may be
+sure a river will be found flowing.  These pretty alluvial plains,
+enfolded on the south, the west, and the north by a grand mountain
+arc, present most luxurious and enchanting scenery.  The vegetation
+seems to be of spontaneous growth.  Groups of the Elaeis Guineansis
+palm embowering some dun-brown village; an array of majestic,
+superb growth of mvule trees; a broad extent covered with vivid
+green sorghum stalks; parachute-like tops of mimosa; a line of white
+sand, on which native canoes are drawn far above the reach of the
+plangent, uneasy surf; fishermen idly reclining in the shade of a
+tree;--these are the scenes which reveal themselves to us as we
+voyage in our canoe on the Tanganika.  When wearied with the romance
+of wild tropic scenes such as these, we have but to lift our eyes
+to the great mountain tops looming darkly and grandly on our right;
+to watch the light pencilling of the cirrus, brushing their summits,
+as it is drifted toward the north by the rising wind: to watch the
+changing forms which the clouds assume, from the fleecy horizontal
+bars of the cirrus, to the denser, gloomier cumulus, prognosticator
+of storm and rain, which soon settles into a portentous group--Alps
+above Alps, one above another--and we know the storm which was
+brewing is at hand, and that it is time to seek shelter.
+
+Passing Muikamba, we saw several groves of the tall mvule tree.
+As far as Bemba the Wabembe occupy the mountain summits, while
+the Wavira cultivate the alluvial plains along the base and lower
+slopes of the mountain.  At Bemba we halted to take in pieces of
+pipe-clay, in accordance with the superstition of the Wajiji, who
+thought us certain of safe passage and good fortune if we complied
+with the ancient custom.
+
+Passing Ngovi, we came to a deep bend, which curved off to Cape
+Kabogi at the distance of ten miles.  About two-thirds of the way
+we arrived at a group of islets, three in number, all very steep
+and rocky; the largest about 300 feet in length at the base, and
+about 200 feet in breadth.  Here we made preparations to halt for
+the night.  The inhabitants of the island were a gorgeously-feathered
+old cock, which was kept as a propitiatory offering to the spirit
+of the island, a sickly yellow-looking thrush, a hammer-headed
+stork, and two fish-hawks, who, finding we had taken possession of
+what had been religiously reserved for them, took flight to the
+most western island, where from their perches they continued
+to eye us most solemnly.  As these islands were with difficulty
+pronounced by us as Kavunvweh, the Doctor, seeing that they were
+the only objects we were likely to discover, named them the
+"'New York Herald' Islets;" and, in confirmation of the new
+designation given them, shook hands with me upon it.  Careful
+dead-reckoning settled them to be in lat. 3 degrees 41 minutes S.
+
+The summit of the largest island was well adapted to take bearings,
+and we improved the opportunity, as most extensive views of the
+broad and lengthy lake and surrounding lines of imposing mountains
+were attainable.  The Ramata Hills were clearly visible, and bore
+N.N.E. from it; Katanga Cape, S.E. by S.; Sentakeyi, E.S.E.;
+Magala, E. by N.; south-western point of Muzimu bore S., northern
+point of Muzimu island, S.S.E.
+
+At dawn on the 9th December we prepared to resume our voyage.
+Once or twice in the night we had been visited by fishermen, but
+our anxious watchfulness prevented any marauding.  It seemed to me,
+however, that the people of the opposite shore, who were our
+visitors, were eagerly watching an opportunity to pounce upon
+our canoe, or take us bodily for a prey; and our men were
+considerably affected by these thoughts, if we may judge from
+the hearty good-will with which they rowed away from our late
+encampment.
+
+Arriving at Cape Kabogi, we came to the territory of the Wasansi.
+We knew we were abreast of a different tribe by the greeting
+"Moholo," which a group of fishermen gave us; as that of the
+Wavira was "Wake," like that of Urundi, Usige, and Uhha.
+
+We soon sighted Cape Luvumba--a sloping projection of a mountain
+ridge which shot far into the lake.  As a storm was brewing, we
+steered for a snug little cove that appeared before a village;
+and, drawing our canoe from the water, began to set the tent, and
+make other preparations for passing the night.
+
+As the natives appeared quiet and civil enough, we saw no reason
+to suspect that they entertained any hostility to Arabs and
+Wangwana.  Accordingly we had our breakfast cooked, and as usual
+laid down for an afternoon nap.  I soon fell asleep, and was
+dreaming away in my tent, in happy oblivion of the strife and
+contention that had risen since I had gone to sleep, when I heard
+a voice hailing me with, "Master, master! get up, quick.  Here
+is a fight going to begin!"  I sprang up, and snatching my revolver
+belt from the gun-stand, walked outside.  Surely, there appeared to
+be considerable animus between the several factions; between a
+noisy, vindictive-looking set of natives of the one part, and our
+people of the other part.  Seven or eight of our people had taken
+refuge behind the canoe, and had their loaded guns half pointing at
+the passionate mob, which was momentarily increasing in numbers,
+but I could not see the Doctor anywhere.
+
+"Where is the Doctor?" I asked.
+
+"He has gone over that hill, sir, with his compass," said Selim.
+
+"Anybody with him?"
+
+"Susi and Chumah."
+
+"You, Bombay, send two men off to warn the Doctor, and tell him
+to hurry up here."
+
+But just at this period the Doctor and his two men appeared on the
+brow of the hill, looking down in a most complacent manner upon the
+serio-comic scene that the little basin wherein we were encamped
+presented.  For, indeed, despite the serious aspect of it, there
+was much that was comical blended with it--in a naked young man
+who--perfectly drunk, barely able to stand on his feet--was beating
+the ground with his only loin-cloth, screaming and storming away
+like a madman; declaring by this, and by that, in his own choice
+language, that no Mgwana or Arab should halt one moment on the
+sacred soil of Usansi.  His father, the Sultan, was as inebriated
+as himself, though not quite so violent in his behaviour.  In the
+meantime the Doctor arrived upon the scene, and Selim had slipped
+my Winchester rifle, with the magazine full of cartridges, into my
+hand.  The Doctor calmly asked what was the matter, and was
+answered by the Wajiji guides that the people wished us to leave,
+as they were on hostile terms with the Arabs, because the eldest
+son of the Sultan of Muzimu, the large island nearly opposite, had
+been beaten to death by a Baluch, named Khamis, at Ujiji, because
+the young fellow had dared look into his harem, and ever since
+peace had been broken between the Wasansi and Arabs.
+
+After consulting with the guides, the Doctor and I came to the
+conclusion that it were better that we should endeavour to pacify
+the Sultan by a present, rather than take offence at a drunken boy's
+extravagant freak.  In his insane fury he had attempted to slash at
+one of my men with a billhook he carried.  This had been taken as
+a declaration of hostilities, and the soldiers were ready enough
+to engage in war; but there was no necessity to commence fighting
+with a drunken mob, who could have been cleared off the ground
+with our revolvers alone had we desired it.
+
+The Doctor, baring his arm, said to them that he was not a Mgwana,
+or an Arab; but a white man; that Arabs and Wangwana had no such
+colour as we had.  We were white men, different people altogether
+from those whom they were accustomed to see: that no black men
+had ever suffered injury from white men.  This seemed to produce
+great effect, for after a little gentle persuasion the drunken
+youth, and his no less inebriate sire, were induced to sit down
+to talk quietly.  In their conversation with us, they frequently
+referred to Mombo, the son of Kisesa, Sultan of Muzimu, who was
+brutally murdered.  "Yes, brutally murdered!" they exclaimed
+several times, in their own tongue; illustrating, by a faithful
+pantomime, how the unfortunate youth had died.
+
+Livingstone continued talking with them in a mild, paternal way,
+and their loud protestations against Arab cruelty were about to
+subside, when the old Sultan suddenly rose up and began to pace
+about in an excited manner, and in one of his perambulations
+deliberately slashed his leg with the sharp blade of his spear,
+and then exclaimed that the Wangwana had wounded him!
+
+At this cry one half of the mob hastily took to flight, but one
+old woman, who carried a strong staff with a carved lizard's body
+on its top, commenced to abuse the chief with all the power of her
+voluble tongue, charging him with a desire to have them all killed,
+and other women joined in with her in advising him to be quiet,
+and accept the present we were willing to give.
+
+But it is evident that there was little needed to cause all men
+present in that little hollow to begin a most sanguinary strife.
+The gentle, patient bearing of the Doctor had more effect than
+anything else in making all forbear bloodshed, while there was
+left the least chance of an amicable settlement, and in the end
+it prevailed.  The Sultan and his son were both sent on their way
+rejoicing.
+
+While the Doctor conversed with them, and endeavoured to calm their
+fierce passions, I had the tent struck, and the canoes launched,
+and the baggage stowed, and when the negotiations had concluded
+amicably, I begged the Doctor to jump into the boat, as this
+apparent peace was simply a lull before a storm; besides, said I,
+there are two or three cowardly creatures in the boat, who, in
+case of another disturbance, would not scruple to leave both of us
+here.
+
+From Cape Luvumba, about 4.30 P.M. we commenced pulling across;
+at 8 P.M. we were abreast of Cape Panza, the northern extremity
+of the island of Muzimu; at 6 A.M. we were southward of Bikari,
+and pulling for Mukungu, in Urundi, at which place we arrived at
+10 A.M., having been seventeen hours and a half in crossing the
+lake, which, computing at two miles an hour, may be said to be
+thirty-five miles direct breadth, and a little more than
+forty-three miles from Cape Luvumba.
+
+On the 11th of December, after seven hours' pulling, we arrived at
+picturesque Zassi again; on the 12th, at the pretty cove of Niasanga;
+and at 11 A.M. we had rounded past Bangwe, and Ujiji was before us.
+
+We entered the port very quietly, without the usual firing of
+guns, as we were short of powder and ball.  As we landed, our
+soldiers and the Arab magnates came to the water's edge to greet
+us.
+
+Mabruki had a rich budget to relate to us, of what had occurred
+during our absence.  This faithful man, left behind in charge of
+Livingstone's house, had done most excellently.  Kalulu had scalded
+himself, and had a frightful raw sore on his chest in consequence.
+Mabruki had locked up Marora in chains for wounding one of the
+asses.  Bilali, the stuttering coward, a bully of women, had
+caused a tumult in the market-place, and had been sharply
+belaboured with the stick by Mabruki.  And, above all most
+welcome, was a letter I received from the American Consul at
+Zanzibar, dated June 11th, containing telegrams from Paris as late
+as April 22nd of the same year!  Poor Livingstone exclaimed, "And
+I have none.  What a pleasant thing it is to have a real and good
+friend!"
+
+Our voyage on the Tanganika had lasted twenty-eight days, during
+which time we had traversed over 300 miles of water.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.  OUR JOURNEY FROM UJIJI TO UNYANYEMBE.
+
+
+We felt quite at home when we sat down on our black bear-skin, gay
+Persian carpet and clean new mats, to rest with our backs to the
+wall, sipping our tea with the air of comfortable men, and chat
+over the incidents of the "picnic," as Livingstone persisted in
+calling our journey to the Rusizi.  It seemed as if old times,
+which we loved to recall, had come back again, though our house
+was humble enough in its aspect, and our servants were only naked
+barbarians; but it was near this house that I had met him--
+Livingstone--after that eventful march from Unyanyembe; it was on
+this same veranda that I listened to that wonderful story of his
+about those far, enchanting regions west of the Lake Tanganika;
+it was in this same spot that I first became acquainted with him;
+and ever since my admiration has been growing for him, and I feel
+elated when he informs me that he must go to Unyanyembe under my
+escort, and at my expense.  The old mud walls and the bare rafters,
+and the ancient thatched roof, and this queer-looking old veranda,
+will have an historical interest for me while I live, and so, while
+I can, I have taken pains and immortalized the humble old building
+by a sketch.
+
+I have just said that my admiration for Livingstone has been
+growing.  This is true.  The man that I was about to interview
+so calmly and complacently, as I would interview any prominent
+man with the view of specially delineating his nature, or detailing
+his opinions, has conquered me.  I had intended to interview him,
+report in detail what he said, picture his life and his figure,
+then bow him my "au revoir," and march back.  That he was specially
+disagreeable and brusque in his manner, which would make me quarrel
+with him immediately, was firmly fixed in my mind.
+
+But Livingstone--true, noble Christian, generous-hearted, frank
+man--acted like a hero, invited me to his house, said he was glad
+to see me, and got well on purpose to prove the truth of his
+statement, "You have brought new life unto me;" and when I fell
+sick with the remittent fever, hovering between life and death,
+he attended me like a father, and we have now been together for
+more than a month.
+
+Can you wonder, then, that I like this man, whose face is the
+reflex of his nature, whose heart is essentially all goodness,
+whose aims are so high, that I break out impetuously sometimes:
+"But your family, Doctor, they would like to see you, oh! so much.
+Let me tempt you to come home with me.  I promise to carry you
+every foot of the way to the coast.  You shall have the finest
+donkey to ride that is in Unyanyembe.  Your wants--you have but
+to hint them, and they shall be satisfied.  Let the sources of
+the Nile go--do you come home and rest; then, after a year's rest,
+and restored health, you can return and finish what you have to do."
+
+But ever the answer was, "No, I should like to see my family
+very much indeed.  My children's letters affect me intensely;
+but I must not go home; I must finish my task.  It is only the
+want of supplies that has detained me.  I should have finished
+the discovery of the Nile by this, by tracing it to its connection
+with either Baker's Lake, or Petherick's branch of the Nile.  If
+I had only gone one month further, I could have said, 'the work
+is done."'
+
+Some of these men who had turned the Doctor back from his
+interesting discoveries were yet in Ujiji, and had the Government
+Enfield rifles in their hands, which they intended to retain until
+their wages had been paid to them; but as they had received $60
+advance each at Zanzibar from the English Consul, with the
+understanding entered into by contract that they should follow
+their master wherever he required them to go; and as they had
+not only not gone where they were required to proceed with him,
+but had baffled and thwarted him, it was preposterous that a few
+men should triumph over the Doctor, by keeping the arms given to
+him by the Bombay Government.  I had listened to the Arab
+sheikhs, friends of the Doctor, advising them in mild tones to give
+them up; I had witnessed the mutineer's stubbornness; and it was
+then, on the burzani of Sayd bin Majid's house, that I took
+advantage to open my mind on the subject, not only for the
+benefit of the stubborn slaves, but also for the benefit of the
+Arabs; and to tell them that it was well that I had found
+Livingstone alive, for if they had but injured a hair of his head,
+I should have gone back to the coast, to return with a party which
+would enable me to avenge him.  I had been waiting to see
+Livingstone's guns returned to him every day, hoping that I should
+not have to use force; but when a month or more had elapsed, and
+still the arms had not been returned, I applied for permission to
+take them, which was granted.  Susi, the gallant servant of Dr.
+Livingstone, was immediately despatched with about a dozen armed
+men to recover them, and in a few minutes we had possession of them
+without further trouble.
+
+The Doctor had resolved to accompany me to Unyanyembe, in order to
+meet his stores, which had been forwarded from Zanzibar, November
+1st, 1870.  As I had charge of the escort, it was my duty to
+study well the several routes to Unyanyembe from Ujiji.  I was
+sufficiently aware of the difficulties and the responsibilities
+attached to me while escorting such a man.  Besides, my own
+personal feelings were involved in the case.  If Livingstone
+came to any harm through any indiscretion of mine while he was
+with me, it would immediately be said, "Ah! had he not
+accompanied Stanley, he would have been alive now."
+
+I took out my chart--the one I had made myself--in which I had
+perfect faith, and I sketched out a route which would enable us
+to reach Unyanyembe without paying a single cloth as tribute,
+and without encountering any worse thing than a jungle, by which
+we could avoid all the Wavinza and the plundering Wahha.  This
+peaceable, secure route led by water, south, along the coast of
+Ukaranga and Ukawendi, to Cape Tongwe.  Arriving at Cape Tongwe,
+I should be opposite the village of Itaga, Sultan Imrera, in the
+district of Rusawa of Ukawendi; after which we should strike my
+old road, which I had traversed from Unyanyembe, when bound for
+Ujiji.  I explained it to the Doctor, and he instantly recognised
+its feasibility and security; and if I struck Imrera, as I
+proposed to do, it would demonstrate whether my chart was correct
+or not.
+
+We arrived at Ujiji from our tour of discovery, north of the
+Tanganika, December 13th; and from this date the Doctor commenced
+writing his letters to his numerous friends, and to copy into his
+mammoth Letts's Diary, from his field books, the valuable
+information he had acquired during his years of travel south and
+west of the Tanganika.  I sketched him while sitting in his
+shirt-sleeves in the veranda, with his Letts's Diary on his knee;
+and the likeness on the frontispiece is an admirable portrait of
+him, because the artist who has assisted me, has with an intuitive
+eye, seen the defects in my own sketch; and by this I am enabled
+to restore him to the reader's view exactly as I saw him--as he
+pondered on what he had witnessed during his long marches.
+
+Soon after my arrival at Ujiji, he had rushed to his paper, and
+indited a letter to James Gordon Bennett, Esq., wherein he
+recorded his thanks; and after he had finished it, I asked him
+to add the word "Junior" to it, as it was young Mr. Bennett to
+whom he was indebted.  I thought the letter admirable, and
+requested the Doctor not to add another word to it.  The feelings
+of his heart had found expression in the grateful words he had
+written; and if I judged Mr. Bennett rightly, I knew he would
+be satisfied with it.  For it was not the geographical news he
+cared so much about, as the grand fact of Livingstone's being
+alive or dead.
+
+In this latter part of December he was writing letters to his
+children, to Sir Roderick Murchison, and to Lord Granville.
+He had intended to have written to the Earl of Clarendon, but
+it was my sad task to inform him of the death of that
+distinguished nobleman.
+
+In the meantime I was preparing the Expedition for its return
+march to Unyanyembe, apportioning the bales and luggage, the
+Doctor's large tin boxes, and my own among my own men; for I
+had resolved upon permitting the Doctor's men to march as
+passengers, because they had so nobly performed their duty
+to their master.
+
+Sayd bin Majid had left, December 12, for Mirambo's country,
+to give the black Bonaparte battle for the murder of his son
+Soud in the forests of Wilyankuru; and he had taken with him 300
+stout fellows, armed with guns, from Ujiji.  The stout-hearted
+old chief was burning with rage and resentment, and a fine warlike
+figure he made with his 7-foot gun.  Before we had departed for
+the Rusizi, I had wished him bon voyage, and expressed a hope
+that he would rid the Central African world of the tyrant Mirambo.
+
+On the 20th of December the rainy season was ushered in with heavy
+rain, thunder, lightning, and hail; the thermometer falling to
+66 degrees Fahrenheit.  The evening of this day I was attacked with
+urticaria, or "nettle rash," for the third time since arriving in
+Africa, and I suffered a woeful sickness; and it was the forerunner
+of an attack of remittent fever, which lasted four days.  This is
+the malignant type, which has proved fatal to so many African
+travellers on the Zambezi, the White Nile, the Congo, and the Niger.
+The head throbs, the pulses bound, the heart struggles painfully,
+while the sufferer's thoughts are in a strange world, such only as
+a sick man's fancy can create.  This was the fourth attack of
+fever since the day I met Livingstone.  The excitement of the
+march, and the high hope which my mind constantly nourished,
+had kept my body almost invincible against an attack of fever
+while advancing towards Ujiji; but two weeks after the great event
+had transpired my energies were relaxed, my mind was perfectly
+tranquil, and I became a victim.
+
+Christmas came, and the Doctor and I had resolved upon the blessed
+and time-honoured day being kept as we keep it in Anglo-Saxon
+lands, with a feast such as Ujiji could furnish us.  The fever had
+quite gone from me the night before, and on Christmas morning,
+though exceedingly weak, I was up and dressed, and lecturing
+Ferajji, the cook, upon the importance of this day to white men,
+and endeavouring to instil into the mind of the sleek and pampered
+animal some cunning secrets of the culinary art.  Fat broad-tailed
+sheep, goats, zogga and pombe, eggs, fresh milk, plantains, singwe,
+fine cornflour, fish, onions, sweet potatoes, &c., &c., were
+procured in the Ujiji market, and from good old Moeni Kheri.
+But, alas! for my weakness.  Ferajji spoiled the roast, and our
+custard was burned--the dinner was a failure.  That the fat-brained
+rascal escaped a thrashing was due only to my inability to lift
+my hands for punishment; but my looks were dreadful and alarming,
+and capable of annihilating any one except Ferajji.  The stupid,
+hard-headed cook only chuckled, and I believe he had the subsequent
+gratification of eating the pies, custards, and roast that his
+carelessness had spoiled for European palates.
+
+Sayd bin Majid, previous to his departure, had left orders that
+we should be permitted to use his canoe for our homeward trip,
+and Moeni Kheri kindly lent his huge vessel for the same purpose.
+The Expedition, now augmented by the Doctor and his five servants,
+and their luggage, necessitated the employment of another canoe.
+We had our flocks of milch-goats and provision of fat sheep for
+the jungle of Ukawendi, the transit of which I was about to attempt.
+Good Halimah, Livingstone's cook, had made ready a sackful of fine
+flour, such as she only could prepare in her fond devotion for her
+master.  Hamoydah, her husband, also had freely given his
+assistance and attention to this important article of food.
+I purchased a donkey for the Doctor, the only one available in
+Ujiji, lest the Doctor might happen to suffer on the long march
+from his ancient enemy.  In short, we were luxuriously furnished
+with food, sheep, goats, cheese, cloth, donkeys, and canoes,
+sufficient to convey us a long distance; we needed nothing more.
+
+The 27th of December has arrived; it is the day of our departure
+from Ujiji.  I was probably about to give an eternal farewell to
+the port whose name will for ever be sacred in my memory.  The
+canoes--great lumbering hollow trees--are laden with good things;
+the rowers are in their places; the flag of England is hoisted at
+the stern of the Doctor's canoe; the flag of America waves and
+rustles joyously above mine; and I cannot look at them without
+feeling a certain pride that the two Anglo-Saxon nations are
+represented this day on this great inland sea, in the face of
+wild nature and barbarism.
+
+We are escorted to our boats by the great Arab merchants, by the
+admiring children of Unyamwezi, by the freemen of Zanzibar, by
+wondering Waguhha and Wajiji, by fierce Warundi, who are on this
+day quiet, even sorrowful, that the white men are going-"Whither?"
+they all ask.
+
+At 8 A.M. we start, freely distributing our farewells as the
+Arabs and quidnuncs wave their hands.  On the part of one or two
+of them there was an attempt to say something sentimental and
+affecting, especially by the convicted sinner Mohammed bin Sali;
+but though outwardly I manifested no disapprobation of his words,
+or of the emphatic way in which he shook my hand, I was not sorry
+to see the last of him, after his treachery to Livingstone in
+1869.  I was earnestly requested to convey to Unyanyembe "Mengi
+salaams" to everybody, but had I done so, as he evidently desired
+me to do, I would not have been surprised at being regarded by all
+as hopelessly imbecile.
+
+We pushed off from the clayey bank at the foot of the market-place,
+while the land party, unencumbered with luggage, under the
+leadership of gigantic Asmani and Bombay, commenced their journey
+southward along the shores of the lake.  We had arranged to meet them
+at the mouth of every river to transport them across from bank to bank.
+
+The Doctor being in Sayd bin Majid's boat, which was a third or so
+shorter than the one under my command, took the lead, with the
+British flag, held aloft by a bamboo, streaming behind like a
+crimson meteor.  My boat-manned by Wajiji sailors, whom we had
+engaged to take the canoes back from Tongwe Cape to Ujiji Bunder--
+came astern, and had a much taller flagstaff, on which was hoisted
+the ever-beautiful Stars and Stripes.  Its extreme height drew from
+the Doctor--whose patriotism and loyalty had been excited--the remark
+that he would cut down the tallest palmyra for his flagstaff, as it
+was not fitting that the British flag should be so much lower than
+that of the United States.
+
+Our soldiers were not a whit behind us in lightheartedness at the
+thought of going to Unyanyembe.  They struck up the exhilarating
+song of the Zanzibar boatmen, with the ecstatic chorus--
+
+Kinan de re re Kitunga,
+
+rowing away like madmen, until they were compelled to rest from
+sheer exhaustion, while the perspiration exuded from the pores of
+their bodies in streams.  When refreshed, they bent back to their
+oars, raising the song of the Mrima--
+
+O mama, re de mi Ky,
+
+which soon impelled them to an extravagant effort again, It was
+by this series of ferocious spurts, racing, shouting, singing,
+perspiring, laughing, groaning, and puffing, that our people vented
+their joyous feelings, as the thought filled their minds that we
+were homeward bound, and that by the route I had adopted between
+us and Unyanyembe there was not the least danger.
+
+  We have given the Waha, the slip! ha, ha!
+  The Wavinza will trouble us no more! ho! ho!
+Mionvu can get no more cloth from us! hy,by!
+And Kiala will see us no more---never more! he, he!
+
+they shouted with wild bursts of laughter, seconded by tremendous
+and rapid strokes with their oars, which caused the stiff old
+canoes to quiver from stem to stern.
+
+Our party ashore seemed to partake of our excitement, and joined
+in the wild refrain of the mad African song.  We watched them
+urging their steps forward to keep pace with us, as we rounded
+the capes and points, and rowed across the bays whose margins were
+sedge, and rush, and reed; the tiny and agile Kalulu, little
+Bilali, and Majwara were seen racing the herds of goats, sheep,
+and donkeys which belonged to the caravan, and the animals even
+seemed to share the general joy.
+
+Nature, also--proud, wild nature-0-with the lofty azure dome
+upheaved into infinity--with her breadth and depth of vivid
+greenness and enormous vastness on our left--with her immense
+sheet of bright, glancing water--with her awful and intense
+serenity--she partook of and added to our joy.
+
+About 10 A.M. we arrived at Kirindo's, an old chief, noted for his
+singular kindness to Dr. Livingstone, while he bore animosity to
+the Arabs.  To the Arabs this was unaccountable--to the Doctor it
+was plain: he had but spoken kind and sincere words, while all the
+Arabs spoke to him as if he were not even a man, least of all a
+chief.
+
+Kirindo's place is at the mouth of the Liuche, which is very wide;
+the river oozes out through a forest of eschinomenae (pith tree).
+This was a rendezvous agreed upon between shore and lake parties,
+that the canoes might all cross to the other side, distant a mile
+and a half.  The mouth of the Liuche forms the Bay of Ukaranga,
+so named because on the other side, whither we were about to cross
+our party, was situated the village of Ukaranga, a few hundred yards
+from the lake.  All the baggage was taken out of the largest canoe,
+and stowed snugly in the smaller one, and a few select oarsmen
+having taken seats, pushed off with the Doctor on board, who was
+to superintend pitching the encampment at Ukaranga; while I remained
+behind to bind the fractious and ill-natured donkeys, and stow
+them away in the bottom of the large canoe, that no danger of
+upsetting might be incurred, and a consequent gobbling-up by
+hungry crocodiles, which were all about us waiting their opportunity.
+The flock of goats were then embarked, and as many of our people
+as could be got in.  About thirty still remained behind with myself,
+for whom my canoe was to return.
+
+We all arrived safe at Ukaranga, though we got dangerously near
+a herd of hippopotami.  The crossing of the wide mouth (the Liuche
+being then in flood) was effected in about four hours.
+
+The next day, in the same order as on our departure from Ujiji,
+we pursued our way south, the lake party keeping as closely as
+possible to the shore, yet, when feasible, wind and weather
+permitting, we struck off boldly across the numerous small bays
+which indent the shores of the Tanganika.  The shores were
+beautifully green, the effect of the late rains; the waters of
+the lake were a faithful reflex of the blue firmament above.
+The hippopotami were plentiful.  Those noticed on this day were
+coloured with reddish rings round the base of their ears and on the
+neck.  One monster, coming up rather late, was surprised by the
+canoe making full for him, and in great fright took a tremendous
+dive which showed the whole length of his body.  Half way between
+the mouth of the Malagarazi and that of the Liuche we saw a camp
+on shore--that of Mohammed bin Gharib, a Msawahili, who figured
+often in Livingstone's verbal narrative to me of his adventures
+and travels as one of the kindest and best of the Moslems in
+Central Africa.  He appeared to me a kindly disposed man, with
+a face seldom seen, having the stamp of an unusual characteristic
+on it--that of sincerity.
+
+The vegetation of the shores as we proceeded was truly tropical,
+each curve revealed new beauties.  With the soft chalky stone, of
+which most of the cliffs and bluffs are made, seen as we neared
+the mouth of the Malagarazi, the surf has played strange freaks.
+
+We arrived at the mouth of the Malagarazi about P.M., having rowed
+eighteen miles from Ukaranga.  The shore party arrived, very much
+fatigued, about 5 P.M.
+
+The next day was employed in crossing the caravan across the broad
+mouth of the Malagarazi to our camp, a couple of miles north of the
+river.  This is a river which a civilised community would find of
+immense advantage for shortening the distance between the Tanganika
+and the coast.  Nearly one hundred miles might be performed by
+this river, which is deep enough at all seasons to allow navigation
+as far as Kiala, in Uvinza, whence a straight road might be easily
+made to Unyanyembe.  Missionaries also might reap the same benefit
+from it for conversion-tours to Uvinza, Uhha, and Ugala.  Pursuing
+our way on the 30th, and rounding the picturesque capes of
+Kagongo, Mviga and Kivoe, we came, after about three hours'
+rowing, in sight of villages at the mouth of the swift and turbid
+Rugufu.  Here we had again to transport the caravan ever the
+crocodile-infested mouth of the river.
+
+On the morning of the 31st we sent a canoe with men to search for
+food in the two or three villages that were visible on the other
+side.  Four doti purchased just sufficient for four days for our
+caravan of forty-eight persons.  We then got under weigh, having
+informed the kirangozi that Urimba was our destination, and bidding
+him keep as closely as possible to the lake shore, where it was
+practicable, but if not, to make the best he could of it.  From the
+debouchement of the Rugufu, the headwaters of which we had crossed
+on our random route to Ujiji, to Urimba, a distance of six days by
+water, there are no villages, and consequently no food.  The shore
+party, however, before leaving Ujiji, had eight days' rations,
+and on this morning four days', distributed to each person,
+and therefore was in no danger of starvation should the mountain
+headlands, now unfolding, abrupt and steep, one after another,
+prevent them from communicating with us.  It must be understood
+that such a journey as this had never been attempted before by
+any Arab or Msawahili, and every step taken was in sheer
+ignorance of where the road would lead the men ashore.  Rounding
+Kivoe's steep promontory, whose bearded ridge and rugged slope,
+wooded down to the water's edge, whose exquisite coves and quiet
+recesses, might well have evoked a poetical effusion to one so
+inclined, we dared the chopping waves of Kivoe's bay, and stood
+direct for the next cape, Mizohazy, behind which, owing to wind
+and wave, we were compelled to halt for the night.
+
+After Mizohazy is the bold cape of Kabogo--not the terrible Kabogo
+around whose name mystery has been woven by the superstitious
+natives--not the Kabogo whose sullen thunder and awful roar were
+heard when crossing the Rugufu on our flight from the Wahha---but
+a point in Ukaranga, on whose hard and uninviting rocks many a
+canoe has been wrecked.  We passed close to its forbidding walls,
+thankful for the calm of the Tanganika.  Near Kabogo are some very
+fine mvule trees, well adapted for canoe building, and there are no
+loud-mouthed natives about to haggle for the privilege of cutting
+them.
+
+Along the water's edge, and about three feet above it, was observed
+very clearly on the smooth face of the rocky slopes of Kabogo
+the high-water mark of the lake.  This went to show that the
+Tanganika, during the rainy season, rises about three feet above
+its dry season level, and that, during the latter season,
+evaporation reduces it to its normal level.  The number of rivers
+which we passed on this journey enabled me to observe whether, as
+I was told, there was any current setting north.  It was apparent
+to me that, while the south-west, south, or south-east winds blew,
+the brown flood of the rivers swept north; but it happened that,
+while passing, once or twice, the mouths of rivers, after a puff
+from the north-west and north, that the muddied waters were seen
+southward of the mouths; from which I conclude that there is no
+current in the Tanganika except such as is caused by the fickle
+wind.
+
+Finding a snug nook of a bay at a place called Sigunga, we put in
+for lunch.  An island at the mouth of the bay suggested to our
+minds that this was a beautiful spot for a mission station; the
+grandly sloping hills in the background, with an undulating shelf
+of land well-wooded between them and the bay, added to the
+attractions of such a spot.  The island, capable of containing
+quite a large village, and perfectly defensible, might, for
+prudence' sake, contain the mission and its congregation; the
+landlocked bay would protect their fishery and trade vessels;
+more than sustain a hundred times the number of the population
+of the island.  Wood for building their canoes and houses is
+close at hand; the neighbouring country would afford game in
+abundance; and the docile and civil people of Ukaranga but
+wait religious shepherds.
+
+From beautiful Sigunga, after a brief halt, we set off, and,
+after three hours, arrived at the mouth of the River Uwelasia.
+Hippopotami and crocodiles being numerous; we amused ourselves by
+shooting at them, having also a hope of attracting the attention
+of our shore party, the sound of whose guns we had not heard
+since leaving the Rugufu.
+
+On the 3rd of January we left Uwelasia, and, passing by Cape
+Herembe, were in the bay of Tongwe.  This bay is about twenty-
+five miles broad, and stretches from Cape Herembe to Cape Tongwe.
+Finding themselves so near their destination, Urimba being
+but six miles from Herembe Point, the men of both boats bent
+themselves to their oars, and, with shouts, songs, and laughter,
+encouraged each other to do their utmost.  The flags of the two
+great Anglo-Saxon nations rippled and played in the soft breeze,
+sometimes drawing near caressingly together, again bending away,
+like two lovers coy to unite.  The tight little boat of the Doctor
+would keep ahead, and the crimson and crossed flag of England would
+wave before me, and it seemed to say to the beautiful laggard
+astern, "Come on, come on; England leads the way."  But was it not
+England's place to be in the front here?  She won the right to it
+by discovering the Tanganika; America came but second.
+
+Urimba, though a large district of Kawendi, has a village of
+the same name peopled by refugees from Yombeh, who found the
+delta of the Loajeri, though the unhealthiest of spots--equal
+to that of the Rusizi--far preferable to the neighbourhood of
+Sultan Pumburu, of Southern Kawendi.  A good chase by the victors
+seems to have given a shock to their systems, for they are very
+timid and distrustful of strangers, and would by no means permit
+us to enter their village, of which, to say the truth, I was very
+glad, after a glance at the reeking corruption on which they were
+encamped.  In the immediate neighbourhood--nay, for a couple of
+miles on either side--I should suppose that to a white man it were
+death to sleep a single night.  Leading the way south of the
+village, I found a fit camping-place at the extreme south-east
+corner of Tongwe Bay, about a mile and a half due west of the
+lofty peak of Kivanga, or Kakungu.  By an observation taken by
+the Doctor, we found ourselves to be in latitude 5 degrees 54
+minutes south.
+
+None of the natives had heard of our shore party, and, as the
+delta of the Loajeri and Mogambazi extended for about fifteen miles,
+and withal was the most impassable of places, being perfectly flat,
+overgrown with the tallest of matete, eschinomenae, and thorny
+bush, and flooded with water, it was useless to fatigue our men
+searching for the shore party in such an inhospitable country.
+No provisions were procurable, for the villages were in a state of
+semi-starvation, the inhabitants living from hand to mouth on what
+reluctant Fortune threw into their nets.
+
+The second day of our arrival at Urimba I struck off into the
+interior with my gun-bearer, Kalulu, carrying the Doctor's
+splendid double-barreled rifle (a Reilly, No. 12), on the search
+for venison.  After walking about a mile I came to a herd of
+zebras.  By creeping on all-fours I managed to come within one
+hundred yards of them; but I was in a bad spot--low prickly shrubs;
+and tsetse flies alighting on the rifle-sight, biting my nose,
+and dashing into my eyes, completely disconcerted me; and, to add
+to my discontent, my efforts to disengage myself from the thorns,
+alarmed the zebras, which all stood facing the suspicious object in
+the bush.  I fired at the breast of one, but, as might be expected,
+missed.  The zebras galloped away to about three hundred yards
+off, and I dashed into the open, and, hastily cocking the left-hand
+trigger, aimed at a proud fellow trotting royally before his
+fellows, and by good chance sent a bullet through his heart.
+A fortunate shot also brought down a huge goose, which had a sharp
+horny spur on the fore part of each wing.  This supply of meat
+materially contributed towards the provisioning of the party for
+the transit of the unknown land that lay between us and Mrera,
+in Rusawa, Kawendi.
+
+It was not until the third day of our arrival at our camp at
+Urimba that our shore party arrived.  They had perceived our
+immense flag hoisted on a twenty-feet long bamboo above the
+tallest tree near our camp as they surmounted the sharp lofty ridge
+behind Nerembe, fifteen miles off, and had at first taken it for a
+huge bird; but there were sharp eyes in the crowd, and, guided by
+it, they came to camp, greeted as only lost and found men are
+greeted.
+
+I suffered from another attack of fever at this camp, brought on by
+the neighbourhood of the vile delta, the look of which sickened the
+very heart in me.
+
+On the 7th of January we struck camp, and turned our faces eastward,
+and for me, home!  Yet regretfully!  There had been enough
+happiness and pleasure, and pleasantest of social companionship
+found on the shores of the lake for me.  I had seen enough lovely
+scenes which, siren-like, invited one to quiet rest; gentle scenes,
+where there was neither jar nor tumult, neither strife nor defeat,
+neither hope nor disappointment, but rest-a drowsy, indolent,
+yet pleasant rest.  And only a few drawbacks to these.  There was
+fever; there were no books, no newspapers, no wife of my own race
+and blood, no theatres, no hotels, no restaurants, no East River
+oysters, no mince-pies, neither buckwheat cakes, nor anything much
+that was good for a cultivated palate to love.  So, in turning to say
+farewell to the then placid lake and the great blue mountains, that
+grew bluer as they receded on either hand, I had the courage to
+utter that awful word tearlessly, and without one sigh.
+
+Our road led up through the valley of the Loajeri, after leaving
+its delta, a valley growing ever narrower, until it narrowed into
+a ravine choked by the now roaring, bellowing river, whose
+resistless rush seemed to affect the very air we breathed.  It was
+getting oppressive, this narrowing ravine, and opportunely the
+road breasted a knoll, then a terrace, then a hill, and lastly a
+mountain, where we halted to encamp.  As we prepared to select a
+camping-place, the Doctor silently pointed forward, and suddenly
+a dead silence reigned everywhere.  The quinine which I had taken
+in the morning seemed to affect me in every crevice of my brain;
+but a bitter evil remained, and, though I trembled under the heavy
+weight of the Reilly rifle, I crept forward to where the Doctor
+was pointing.  I found myself looking down a steep ravine, on the
+other bank of which a fine buffalo cow was scrambling upward.  She
+had just reached the summit, and was turning round to survey her
+enemy, when I succeeded in planting a shot just behind the shoulder
+blade, and close to the spine, evoking from her a deep bellow of pain.
+"She is shot! she is shot!" exclaimed the Doctor; "that is a sure sign
+you have hit her."  And the men even raised a shout at the prospect
+of meat.  A second, planted in her spine, brought her to her knees,
+and a third ended her.  We thus had another supply of provisions,
+which, cut up and dried over a fire, as the Wangwana are accustomed
+to do, would carry them far over the unpeopled wilderness before
+us.  For the Doctor and myself, we had the tongue, the hump, and
+a few choice pieces salted down, and in a few days had prime
+corned beef.  It is not inapt to state that the rifle had more
+commendations bestowed on it than the hunter by the Wangwana.
+
+The next day we continued the march eastward, under the guidance
+of our kirangozi; but it was evident, by the road he led us,
+that he knew nothing of the country, though, through his
+volubility, he had led us to believe that he knew all about Ngondo,
+Yombeh, and Pumburu's districts.  When recalled from the head of
+the caravan, we were about to descend into the rapid Loajeri, and
+beyond it were three ranges of impassable mountains, which we were
+to cross in a north-easterly direction; quite out of our road.
+After consulting with the Doctor, I put myself at the head of the
+caravan, and following the spine of the ridge, struck off due east,
+regardless of how the road ran.  At intervals a travelled road
+crossed our path, and, after following it a while, we came to the
+ford of the Loajeri.  The Loajeri rises south and south-east of
+Kakungu Peak.  We made the best we could of the road after crossing
+the river, until we reached the main path that runs from Karah to
+Ngondo and Pumburu, in Southern Kawendi.
+
+On the 9th, soon after leaving camp, we left the travelled path,
+and made for a gap in the are of hills before us, as Pumburu was
+at war with the people of Manya Msenge, a district of northern
+Kawendi.  The country teemed with game, the buffaloes and zebras
+were plentiful.  Among the conspicuous trees were the hyphene and
+borassus palm trees, and a tree bearing a fruit about the size of
+a 600-pounder cannon-ball, called by some natives "mabyah,"*
+according to the Doctor, the seeds of which are roasted and eaten.
+They are not to be recommended as food to Europeans.
+_________________
+* In the Kisawahili tongue, "mabyah," "mbyah, "byah," mean bad,
+unpleasant.
+_________________
+
+On the 10th, putting myself at the head of my men, with my
+compass in hand, I led the way east for three hours.  A beautiful
+park-land was revealed to us; but the grass was very tall, and
+the rainy season, which had commenced in earnest, made my work
+excessively disagreeable.  Through this tall grass, which was as
+high as my throat, I had to force my way, compass in hand, to
+lead the Expedition, as there was not the least sign of a road,
+and we were now in an untravelled country.  We made our camp on
+a beautiful little stream flowing north; one of the feeders of
+the Rugufu River.
+
+The 11th still saw me plunging through the grass, which showered
+drops of rain on me every time I made a step forward.  In two
+hours we crossed a small stream, with slippery syenitic rocks in
+its bed, showing the action of furious torrents.  Mushrooms were
+in abundance, and very large.  In crossing, an old pagazi of
+Unyamwezi, weather-beaten, uttered, in a deplorable tone, "My
+kibuyu is dead;" by which he meant that he had slipped, and in
+falling had broken his gourd, which in Kisawahili is "kibuyu."
+
+On the eastern bank we halted for lunch, and, after an hour and
+a half's march, arrived at another stream, which I took to be the
+Mtambu, at first from the similarity of the land, though my map
+informed me that it was impossible.  The scenery around was very
+similar, and to the north we had cited a similar tabular hill to
+the "Magdala" Mount I had discovered north of Imrera, while going
+to the Malagarazi.  Though we had only travelled three and a half
+hours the Doctor was very tired as the country was exceedingly
+rough.
+
+The next day, crossing several ranges, with glorious scenes of
+surpassing beauty everywhere around us, we came in view of a
+mighty and swift torrent, whose bed was sunk deep between enormous
+lofty walls of sandstone rock, where it roared and brawled with
+the noise of a little Niagara.
+
+Having seen our camp prepared on a picturesque knoll, I thought I
+would endeavour to procure some meat, which this interesting region
+seemed to promise.  I sallied out with my little Winchester along
+the banks of the river eastward.  I travelled for an hour or two,
+the prospect getting more picturesque and lovely, and then went up
+a ravine which looked very promising.  Unsuccessful, I strode up
+the bank, and my astonishment may be conceived when I found
+myself directly in front of an elephant, who had his large broad
+ears held out like studding sails--the colossal monster, the
+incarnation of might of the African world.  Methought when I saw
+his trunk stretched forward, like a warning finger, that I heard a
+voice say, "Siste, Venator!"  But whether it did not proceed from
+my imagination or--No; I believe it proceeded from Kalulu, who
+must have shouted, "Tembo, tembo! bana yango!" "Lo! an elephant!
+an elephant, my master!"
+
+For the young rascal had fled as soon as he had witnessed the awful
+colossus in such close vicinage.  Recovering from my astonishment,
+I thought it prudent to retire also--especially, with a pea-shooter
+loaded with treacherous sawdust cartridges in my hand.  As I
+looked behind, I saw him waving his trunk, which I understood to
+mean, "Good-bye, young fellow; it is lucky for you you went in
+time, for I was going to pound you to a jelly."
+
+As I was congratulating myself, a wasp darted fiercely at me and
+planted its sting in my neck, and for that afternoon my
+anticipated pleasures were dispelled.  Arriving at camp I found
+the men grumbling; their provisions were ended, and there was no
+prospect for three days, at least, of procuring any.  With the
+improvidence usual with the gluttons, they had eaten their rations
+of grain, all their store of zebra and dried buffalo meat, and were
+now crying out that they were famished.
+
+The tracks of animals were numerous, but it being the rainy season
+the game was scattered everywhere; whereas, had we travelled
+during the dry season through these forests our larders might have
+been supplied fresh each day.
+
+Some time about 6 P.M., as the Doctor and I were taking our tea
+outside the tent, a herd of elephants, twelve in number, passed
+about 800 yards off.  Our fundi, Asmani and Mabruki Kisesa, were
+immediately despatched in pursuit.  I would have gone myself with
+the heavy Reilly rifle, only I was too much fatigued.  We soon
+heard their guns firing, and hoped they were successful, as a
+plentiful supply of meat might then have been procured, while we
+ourselves would have secured one of the elephant's feet for a nice
+delicate roast; but within an hour they returned unsuccessful,
+having only drawn blood, some of which they exhibited to us on a
+leaf.
+
+It requires a very good rifle to kill an African elephant.  A No.
+8 bore with a Frazer's shell, planted in the temple, I believe,
+would drop an elephant each shot.  Faulkner makes some
+extraordinary statements, about walking up in front of an elephant
+and planting a bullet in his forehead, killing him instantly.  The
+tale, however, is so incredible that I would prefer not to believe
+it; especially when he states that the imprint of the muzzle of
+his rifle was on the elephant's trunk.  African travellers--
+especially those with a taste for the chase--are too fond of
+relating that which borders on the incredible for ordinary men to
+believe them.  Such stories must be taken with a large grain
+of salt, for the sake of the amusement they afford to readers at
+home.  In future, whenever I hear a man state how he broke the back
+of an antelope at 600 yards, I shall incline to believe a cipher
+had been added by a slip of the pen, or attribute it to a
+typographical error, for this is almost an impossible feat in an
+African forest.  It may be done once, but it could never be done
+twice running.  An antelope makes a very small target at 600 yards
+distance; but, then, all these stories belong by right divine to
+the chasseur who travels to Africa for the sake only of sport.
+
+On the 13th we continued our march across several ridges; and the
+series of ascents and descents revealed to us valleys and mountains
+never before explored streams; rushing northward, swollen by the
+rains, and grand primeval forests, in whose twilight shade no white
+man ever walked before.
+
+On the 14th the same scenes were witnessed--an unbroken series
+of longitudinal ridges, parallel one with another and with Lake
+Tanganika.  Eastward the faces of these ridges present abrupt
+scarps and terraces, rising from deep valleys, while the western
+declivities have gradual slopes.  These are the peculiar features
+of Ukawendi, the eastern watershed of the Tanganika.
+
+In one of these valleys on this day we came across a colony of
+reddish-bearded monkeys, whose howls, or bellowing, rang amongst
+the cliffs as they discovered the caravan.  I was not able to
+approach them, for they scrambled up trees and barked their
+defiance at me, then bounded to the ground as I still persisted
+in advancing; and they would have soon drawn me in pursuit if I
+had not suddenly remembered that my absence was halting the
+Expedition.
+
+About noon we sighted our Magdala--the grand towering mount whose
+upright frowning mass had attracted our eyes, as it lifted itself
+from above the plain in all its grandeur, when we were hurrying
+along the great ridge of Rusawa towards the "Crocodile" River.
+We recognised the old, mystic beauty of the tree-clad plain around
+it.  Then it was bleached, and a filmy haze covered it lovingly;
+now it was vivid greenness.  Every vegetable, plant, herb and
+tree, had sprung into quick life--the effect of the rains.  Rivers
+that ran not in those hot summer days now fumed and rushed
+impetuously between thick belts of mighty timber, brawling
+hoarsely in the glades.  We crossed many of these streams,
+all of which are feeders of the Rugufu.
+
+Beautiful, bewitching Ukawendi!  By what shall I gauge the
+loveliness of the wild, free, luxuriant, spontaneous nature
+within its boundaries?  By anything in Europe?  No.  By anything
+in Asia?  Where?  India, perhaps.  Yes; or say Mingrelia and
+Imeritia.  For there we have foaming rivers; we have picturesque
+hillocks; we have bold hills, ambitious mountains, and
+broad forests, with lofty solemn rows of trees, with clean
+straight stems, through which you can see far, lengthy vistas,
+as you see here.  Only in Ukawendi you can almost behold the growth
+of vegetation; the earth is so generous, nature so kind and
+loving, that without entertaining any aspiration for a residence,
+or a wish to breathe the baleful atmosphere longer than is
+absolutely necessary, one feels insensibly drawn towards it, as
+the thought creeps into his mind, that though all is foul beneath
+the captivating, glamorous beauty of the land, the foulness might
+be removed by civilized people, and the whole region made as
+healthy as it is productive.  Even while staggering under the
+pressure of the awful sickness, with mind getting more and more
+embittered, brain sometimes reeling with the shock of the
+constantly recurring fevers--though I knew how the malaria, rising
+out of that very fairness, was slowly undermining my constitution,
+and insidiously sapping the powers of mind and body--I regarded
+the alluring face of the land with a fatuous love, and felt a
+certain sadness steal over me as each day I was withdrawing myself
+from it, and felt disposed to quarrel with the fate that seemed
+to eject me out of Ukawendi.
+
+On the ninth day of our march from the shores of the Tanganika we
+again perceived our "Magdala Mount," rising like a dark cloud to
+the north-east, by which I knew that we were approaching Imrera,
+and that our Icarian attempt to cross the uninhabited jungle of
+Ukawendi would soon be crowned with success.  Against the
+collective counsel of the guides, and hypothetical suggestions of
+the tired and hungry souls of our Expedition, I persisted in being
+guided only by the compass and my chart.  The guides strenuously
+strove to induce me to alter my course and strike in a south-west
+direction, which, had I listened to them, would have undoubtedly
+taken me to South-western Ukonongo, or North-eastern Ufipa.
+The veteran and experienced soldiers asked mournfully if I were
+determined to kill them with famine, as the road I should have
+taken was north-east; but I preferred putting my trust in the
+compass.  No sun shone upon us as we threaded our way through
+the primeval forest, by clumps of jungle, across streams, up
+steep ridges, and down into deep valleys.  A thick haze covered
+the forests; rain often pelted us; the firmament was an
+unfathomable depth of grey vapour.  The Doctor had perfect
+confidence in me, and I held on my way.
+
+As soon as we arrived at our camp the men scattered themselves
+through the forest to search for food.  A grove of singwe trees was
+found close by.  Mushrooms grew in abundance, and these sufficed to
+appease the gnawing hunger from which the people suffered.  Had it
+not been such rainy weather I should have been enabled to procure
+game for the camp; but the fatigue which I suffered, and the fever
+which enervated me, utterly prevented me from moving out of the camp
+after we once came to a halt.  The fear of lions, which were
+numerous in our vicinity, whose terrible roaring was heard by day
+and by night, daunted the hunters so much, that though I offered
+five doti of cloth for every animal brought to camp, none dared
+penetrate the gloomy glades, or awesome belts of timber, outside
+the friendly defence of the camp.
+
+The morning of the tenth day I assured the people that we were
+close to food; cheered the most amiable of them with promise of
+abundant provender, and hushed the most truculent knaves with a
+warning not to tempt my patience too much, lest we came to angry
+blows; and then struck away east by north through the forest,
+with the almost exhausted Expedition dragging itself weakly and
+painfully behind me.  It was a most desperate position certainly,
+and I pitied the poor people far more than they pitied themselves;
+and though I fumed and stormed in their presence when they
+were disposed to lie down and give up, never was a man further
+from doing them injury.  I was too proud of them; but under the
+circumstances it was dangerous--nay, suicidal--to appear doubtful
+or dubious of the road.  The mere fact that I still held on my way
+according to the Doctor's little pearly monitor (the compass) had
+a grand moral effect on them, and though they demurred in
+plaintive terms and with pinched faces, they followed my
+footsteps with a trustfulness which quite affected me.
+
+For long miles we trudged over smooth sloping sward, with a vision
+of forest and park-land beauty on our right and left, and in front
+of us such as is rarely seen.  At a pace that soon left the main
+body of the Expedition far behind, I strode on with a few gallant
+fellows, who, despite their heavy loads, kept pace with me.  After
+a couple of hours we were ascending the easy slope of a ridge,
+which promised to decide in a few minutes the truth or the
+inaccuracy of my chart.  Presently we arrived at the eastern
+edge of the ridge, and about five miles away, and 1,000 feet below
+the high plateau on which we stood, we distinguished the valley of
+Imrera!
+
+By noon we were in our old camp.  The natives gathered round,
+bringing supplies of food, and to congratulate us upon having gone
+to Ujiji and returned.  But it was long before the last member of
+the Expedition arrived.  The Doctor's feet were very sore,
+bleeding from the weary march.  His shoes were in a very worn-out
+state, and he had so cut and slashed them with a knife to ease his
+blistered feet, that any man of our force would have refused them
+as a gift, no matter how ambitious he might be to encase his feet
+a la Wasungu.
+
+Asmani, the guide, was very much taken aback when he discovered
+that the tiny compass knew the way better than he did, and he
+declared it as his solemn opinion that it could not lie.  He
+suffered much in reputation from having contested the palm with
+the "little thing," and ever afterwards his boasted knowledge
+of the country was considerably doubted.
+
+After halting a day to recruit ourselves, we continued our journey
+on the 18th January, 1872, towards Unyanyembe.  A few miles beyond
+Imrera, Asmani lost the road again, and I was obliged to show it to
+him, by which I gained additional honour and credit as a leader and
+guide.  My shoes were very bad, and it was difficult to decide
+whose were the worst in condition, the Doctor's or mine.  A great
+change had come upon the face of the land since I had passed
+northward en route to Ujiji.  The wild grapes now hung in clusters
+along the road; the corn ears were advanced enough to pluck and
+roast for food; the various plants shed their flowers; and the
+deep woods and grasses of the country were greener than ever.
+
+On the 19th we arrived at Mpokwa's deserted village.  The Doctor's
+feet were very much chafed and sore by the marching.  He had
+walked on foot all the way from Urimba, though he owned a donkey;
+while I, considerably to my shame be it said, had ridden
+occasionally to husband my strength,: that I might be enabled
+to hunt after arrival at camp.
+
+Two huts were cleared for our use, but, just as we had made
+ourselves comfortable, our sharp-eyed fellows had discovered
+several herds of game in the plain west of Mpokwa.  Hastily
+devouring a morsel of corn-bread with coffee, I hastened away,
+with Bilali for a gunbearer, taking with me the famous Reilly
+rifle of the Doctor and a supply of Fraser's shells.  After
+plunging through a deep stream, and getting wet again, and pushing
+my way through a dense brake, I arrived at a thin belt of forest,
+through which I was obliged to crawl, and, in half an hour, I had
+arrived within one hundred and forty yards of a group of zebras,
+which were playfully biting each other under the shade of a large
+tree.  Suddenly rising up, I attracted their attention; but the
+true old rifle was at my shoulder, and "crack--crack" went both
+barrels, and two fine zebras, a male and female, fell dead under
+the tree where they had stood.  In a few seconds their throats
+were cut, and after giving the signal of my success, I was soon
+surrounded by a dozen of my men, who gave utterance to their
+delight by fulsome compliments to the merits of the rifle, though
+very few to me.  When I returned to camp with the meat I received
+the congratulations of the Doctor, which I valued far higher, as
+he knew from long experience what shooting was.
+
+When the eatable portions of the two zebras were hung to the scale,
+we found, according to the Doctor's own figures, that we had 719
+lbs. of good meat, which, divided among forty-four men, gave a
+little over 16 lbs. to each person.  Bombay, especially, was very
+happy, as he had dreamed a dream wherein I figured prominently as
+shooting animals down right and left; and, when he had seen me
+depart with that wonderful Reilly rifle he had not entertained
+a doubt of my success, and, accordingly, had commanded the men
+to be ready to go after me, as soon as they should hear the
+reports of the gun.
+
+The following is quoted from my Diary:
+
+January  20th, 1872.--To-day was a halt.  On going out for a hunt
+I saw a herd of eleven giraffes.  After crossing Mpokwa stream I
+succeeded in getting within one hundred and fifty yards of one of
+them, and fired at it; but, though it was wounded, I did not
+succeed in dropping it, though I desired the skin of one of them
+very much.
+
+In the afternoon I went out to the east of the village, and came
+to a herd of six giraffes.  I wounded one of them, but it got off,
+despite my efforts.
+
+What remarkable creatures they are!  How beautiful their large
+limpid eyes!  I could have declared on oath that both shots had
+been a success, but they sheered off with the stately movements
+of a clipper about to tack.  When they ran they had an ungainly,
+dislocated motion, somewhat like the contortions of an Indian
+nautch or a Theban danseuse--a dreamy, undulating movement, which
+even the tail, with its long fringe of black hair, seemed to
+partake of.
+
+The Doctor, who knew how to console an ardent but disappointed
+young hunter, attributed my non-success to shooting with leaden
+balls, which were too soft to penetrate the thick hide of the
+giraffes, and advised me to melt my zinc canteens with which to
+harden the lead.  It was not the first time that I had cause to
+think the Doctor an admirable travelling companion; none knew so
+well how to console one for bad luck none knew so well how to
+elevate one in his own mind.  If I killed a zebra, did not his
+friend Oswell--the South African hunter--and himself long ago
+come to the conclusion that zebra meat was the finest in Africa?
+If I shot a buffalo cow, she was sure to be the best of her kind,
+and her horns were worth while carrying home as specimens; and was
+she not fat?  If I returned without anything, the game was very
+wild, or the people had made a noise, and the game had been
+frightened; and who could stalk animals already alarmed?  Indeed,
+he was a most considerate companion, and, knowing him to be
+literally truthful, I was proud of his praise when successful,
+and when I failed I was easily consoled.
+
+Ibrahim, the old pagazi whose feelings had been so lacerated in
+Ukawendi, when his ancient kibuyu broke, before leaving Ujiji
+invested his cloth in a slave from Manyuema, who bore the name
+of "Ulimengo," which signifies the "World."  As we approached Mpokwa,
+Ulimengo absconded with all his master's property, consisting of a
+few cloths and a bag of salt, which he had thought of taking to
+Unyanyembe for trade.  Ibrahim was inconsolable, and he kept
+lamenting his loss daily in such lugubrious tones that the people,
+instead of sympathizing, laughed at him.  I asked him why he
+purchased such a slave, and, while he was with him, why he did not
+feed him?  Replied he, tartly, "Was he not my slave?  Was not the
+cloth with which I bought him mine?  If the cloth was my own,
+could I not purchase what I liked?  Why do you talk so?"
+
+Ibrahim's heart was made glad this evening by the return of
+Ulimengo with the salt and the cloth, and the one-eyed old man
+danced with his great joy, and came in all haste to impart to me
+the glad news.  "Lo, the `World' has come back.  Sure.  My salt
+and my cloth are with him also.  Sure."  To which I replied,
+that he had better feed him in future, as slaves required food
+as well as their masters.
+
+From 10 P.M. to midnight the Doctor was employed in taking
+observations from the star Canopus, the result of which was that
+he ascertained Mpokwa, district of Utanda, Ukonongo, to be in S.
+latitude 6 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds.  On comparing it with
+its position as laid down in my map by dead reckoning, I found
+we differed by three miles; I having !aid it down at 6 degrees
+15 minutes south latitude.
+
+The day following was a halt.  The Doctor's feet were so inflamed
+and sore that he could not bear his shoes on.  My heels were also
+raw, and I viciously cut large circles out of my shoes to enable
+me to move about.
+
+Having converted my zinc canteens into bullets, and provided
+myself with a butcher and gun-bearer, I set out for the lovely
+park-land and plain west of Mpokwa stream, with the laudable
+resolution to obtain something; and seeing nothing in the plain,
+I crossed over a ridge, and came to a broad basin covered with
+tall grass, with clumps here and there of hyphene palm, with a
+stray mimosa or so scattered about.  Nibbling off the branches
+of the latter, I saw a group of giraffes, and then began stalking
+them through the grass, taking advantage of the tall grass-grown
+ant-hills that I might approach the wary beasts before their great
+eyes could discover me.  I contrived to come within 175 yards, by
+means of one of these curious hummocks; but beyond it no man could
+crawl without being observed--the grass was so thin and short.  I
+took a long breath, wiped my perspiring brow, and sat down for a
+while; my black assistants also, like myself, were almost breathless
+with the exertion, and the high expectations roused by the near
+presence of the royal beasts.  I toyed lovingly with the heavy
+Reilly, saw to my cartridges, and then stood up and turned, with
+my rifle ready; took one good, long, steady aim; then lowered it
+again to arrange the sights, lifted it up once more--dropped it.
+A giraffe half turned his body; for the last time I lifted it,
+took one quick sight at the region of the heart, and fired.
+He staggered, reeled, then made a short gallop; but the blood
+was spouting from the wound in a thick stream, and before he had
+gone 200 yards he came to a dead halt, with his ears drawn back,
+and allowed me to come within twenty yards of him, when, receiving
+a zinc bullet through the head, he fell dead.
+
+"Allah ho, akhbar!" cried Khamisi, my butcher, fervently.
+"This is meat, master!"
+
+I was rather saddened than otherwise at seeing the noble animal
+stretched before me.  If I could have given him his life back I
+think I should have done so.  I thought it a great pity that such
+splendid animals, so well adapted for the service of man in Africa,
+could not be converted to some other use than that of food.
+Horses, mules, and donkeys died in these sickly regions; but what
+a blessing for Africa would it be if we could tame the giraffes and
+zebras for the use of explorers and traders!  Mounted on a zebra,
+a man would be enabled to reach Ujiji in one month from Bagamoyo;
+whereas it took me over seven months to travel that distance!
+
+The dead giraffe measured 16 feet 9 inches from his right fore-hoof
+to the top of his head, and was one of the largest size, though
+some have been found to measure over 17 feet.  He was spotted all
+over with large black, nearly round, patches.
+
+I left Khamisi in charge of the dead beast, while I returned to
+camp to send off men to cut it up, and convey the meat to our
+village.  But Khamisi climbed a tree for fear of the lions, and the
+vultures settled on it, so that when the men arrived on the spot,
+the eyes, the tongue, and a great part of the posteriors were eaten
+up.  What remained weighed as follows, when brought in and hung to
+the scales:
+
+1 hind leg .  .  .  .  134 lbs.
+
+1  "       .  .  .  .  136  "
+
+1 fore leg .  .  .  .  160  "
+
+I   "      .  .  .  .  160  "
+
+Ribs .  .  .  .  .  .  158  "
+
+Neck .  .  .  .  .  .   74  "
+
+Rump .  .  .  .  .  .   87  "
+
+Breast  .  .  .  .  .    46  "
+
+Liver   .  .  .  .  .    20  "
+
+Lungs   .  .  .  .  .    12  "
+
+Heart   .  .  .  .  .     6  "
+
+Total weight of eatable portions .  .  993 lbs.
+
+Skin and head, 181 lbs.
+
+The three days following I suffered from a severe attack of fever,
+and was unable to stir from bed.  I applied my usual remedies for
+it, which consisted of colocynth and quinine; but experience has
+shown me that an excessive use of the same cathartic weakens its
+effect, and that it would be well for travellers to take with them
+different medicines to cause proper action in the liver, such as
+colocynth, calomel, resin of jalap, Epsom salts; and that no
+quinine should be taken until such medicines shall have prepared
+the system for its reception.
+
+The Doctor's prescription for fever consists of 3 grains
+of resin of jalap, and 2 grains of calomel, with tincture of
+cardamoms put in just enough to prevent irritation of the
+stomach--made into the form of a pill--which is to be taken as
+soon as one begins to feel the excessive languor and weariness
+which is the sure forerunner of the African type of fever.  An
+hour or two later a cup of coffee, unsugared and without milk,
+ought to be taken, to cause a quicker action.  The Doctor also
+thinks that quinine should be taken with the pill; but my
+experience--though it weighs nothing against what he has endured--
+has proved to me that quinine is useless until after the medicine
+has taken effect.  My stomach could never bear quinine unless
+subsequent to the cathartic.  A well-known missionary at
+Constantinople recommends travellers to take 3 grains of
+tartar-emetic for the ejection of the bilious matter in the
+stomach; but the reverend doctor possibly forgets that much more
+of the system is disorganized than the stomach; and though in
+one or two cases of a slight attack, this remedy may have proved
+successful, it is altogether too violent for an enfeebled man
+in Africa.  I have treated myself faithfully after this method
+three or four times; but I could not conscientiously recommend it.
+For cases of urticaria, I could recommend taking 3 grains of
+tartar-emetic; but then a stomach-pump would answer the purpose
+as well.
+
+On the 27th we set out for Misonghi.  About half-way I saw the
+head of the Expedition on the run, and the motive seemed to be
+communicated quickly, man after man, to those behind, until my
+donkey commenced to kick, and lash behind with his heels.  In a
+second, I was made aware of the cause of this excitement, by a
+cloud of wild bees buzzing about my head, three or four of which
+settled on my face, and stung me frightfully.  We raced madly for
+about half a mile, behaving in as wild a manner as the poor
+bestung animals.
+
+As this was an unusually long march, I doubted if the Doctor could
+march it, because his feet were so sore, so I determined to send
+four men back with the kitanda; but the stout old hero refused to
+be carried, and walked all the way to camp after a march of
+eighteen miles.  He had been stung dreadfully in the head and
+in the face; the bees had settled in handfuls in his hair; but,
+after partaking of a cup of warm tea and some food, he was as
+cheerful as if he had never travelled a mile.
+
+At Mrera, Central Ukonongo, we halted a day to grind grain, and
+to prepare the provision we should need during the transit of
+the wilderness between Mrera and Manyara.
+
+On the 31st of January, at Mwaru, Sultan Ka-mirambo, we met a
+caravan under the leadership of a slave of Sayd bin Habib, who
+came to visit us in our camp, which was hidden in a thick clump
+of jungle.  After he was seated, and had taken his coffee,
+I asked,
+
+"What is thy news, my friend, that thou bast brought from
+Unyanyembe?"
+
+"My news is good, master."
+
+"How goes the war?"
+
+"Ah, Mirambo is where?  He eats the hides even.  He
+is famished.  Sayd bin Habib, my master, hath possession of
+Kirira.  The Arabs are thundering at the gates of Wilyankuru.
+Sayd bin Majid, who came from Ujiji to Usagozi in twenty days,
+hath taken and slain `Moto' (Fire), the King.  Simba of Kasera
+hath taken up arms for the defence of his father, Mkasiwa of
+Unyanyembe.  The chief of Ugunda hath sent five hundred men
+to the field.  Ough--Mirambo is where?  In a month he will
+be dead of hunger."
+
+"Great and good news truly, my friend."
+
+"Yes-in the name of God."
+
+"And whither art thou bound with thy caravan?"
+
+"Sayd, the son of Majid, who came from Ujiji, hath told us of
+the road that the white man took, that he had arrived at Ujiji
+safely, and that he was on his way back to Unyanyembe.  So we
+have thought that if the white man could go there, we could also.
+Lo, the Arabs come by the hundred by the white man's road, to
+get the ivory from Ujiji.
+
+"I am that white man."
+
+"You?"
+
+« Yes."
+
+" Why it was reported that you were dead--that you fought with
+the Wazavira."
+
+"Ah, my friend, these are the words of Njara, the son of Khamis.
+See" (pointing to Livingstone), "this is the white man, my
+father *, whom I saw at Ujiji.  He is going with me to Unyanyembe
+to get his cloth, after which he will return to the great waters."
+__________________
+** It is a courteous custom in Africa to address elderly people as
+" Baba," (Father.)
+__________________
+
+"Wonderful!--thou sayest truly."
+
+"What has thou to tell me of the white man at Unyanyembe?"
+
+"Which white man?"
+
+"The white man I left in the house of Sayd, the son of Salim--my
+house--at Kwihara."
+
+" He is dead."
+
+" Dead!"
+
+"True."
+
+"You do not mean to say the white man is dead?"
+
+"True--he is dead."
+
+"How long ago?"
+
+"Many months now."
+
+"What did he die of?"
+
+"Homa (fever)."
+
+"Any more of my people dead?"
+
+"I know not."
+
+" Enough." I looked sympathetically at the Doctor, and he replied,
+
+"I told you so.  When you described him to me as a drunken man,
+I knew he could not live.  Men who have been habitual drunkards
+cannot live in this country, any more than men who have become
+slaves to other vices.  I attribute the deaths that occurred in
+my expedition on the Zambezi to much the same cause."
+
+"Ah, Doctor, there are two of us gone.  I shall be the third,
+if this fever lasts much longer."
+
+"Oh no, not at all.  If you would have died from fever, you would
+have died at Ujiji when you had that severe attack of remittent.
+Don't think of it.  Your fever now is only the result of exposure
+to wet.  I never travel during the wet season.  This time I have
+travelled because I was anxious, and I did not wish to detain you
+at Ujiji."
+
+"Well, there is nothing like a good friend at one's back in this
+country to encourage him, and keep his spirits up.  Poor Shaw!
+I am sorry--very sorry for him.  How many times have I not
+endeavoured to cheer him up!  But there was no life in him.
+And among the last words I said to him, before parting, were,
+`Remember, if you return to Unyanyembe, you die!'"
+
+We also obtained news from the chief of Sayd bin Habib's caravan
+that several packets of letters and newspapers, and boxes, had
+arrived for me from Zanzibar by my messengers and Arabs; that
+Selim, the son of Sheikh Hashid of Zanzibar, was amongst the
+latest arrivals in Unyanyembe.  The Doctor also reminded me with
+the utmost good-nature that, according to his accounts, he had
+a stock of jellies and crackers, soups, fish, and potted ham,
+besides cheese, awaiting him in Unyanyembe, and that he would
+be delighted to share his good things; whereupon I was greatly
+cheered, and, during the repeated attacks of fever I suffered
+about this time, my imagination loved to dwell upon the luxuries
+at Unyanyembe.  I pictured myself devouring the hams and crackers
+and jellies like a madman.  I lived on my raving fancies.  My poor
+vexed brain rioted on such homely things as wheaten bread and
+butter, hams, bacon, caviare, and I would have thought no price
+too high to pay for them.  Though so far away and out of the pale
+of Europe and America, it was a pleasure to me, during the _athumia_
+or despondency into which I was plunged by ever recurring fevers,
+to dwell upon them.  I wondered that people who had access to such
+luxuries should ever get sick, and become tired of life.  I thought
+that if a wheaten loaf with a nice pat of fresh butter were
+presented to me, I would be able, though dying, to spring up and
+dance a wild fandango.
+
+Though we lacked the good things of this life above named, we
+possessed salted giraffe and pickled zebra tongues; we had ugali
+made by Halimah herself; we had sweet potatoes, tea, coffee,
+dampers, or slap jacks; but I was tired of them.  My enfeebled
+stomach, harrowed and irritated with medicinal compounds, with
+ipecac, colocynth, tartar-emetic, quinine, and such things,
+protested against the coarse food.  "Oh, for a wheaten loaf!"
+my soul cried in agony.  "Five hundred dollars for one loaf
+of bread!"
+
+The Doctor, somehow or another, despite the incessant rain, the
+dew, fog, and drizzle, the marching, and sore feet, ate like a
+hero, and I manfully, sternly, resolved to imitate the persevering
+attention he paid to the welfare of his gastric powers; but I
+miserably failed.
+
+Dr. Livingstone possesses all the attainments of a traveller.
+His knowledge is great about everything concerning Africa--the
+rocks, the trees, the fruits, and their virtues, are known to him.
+He is also full of philosophic reflections upon ethnological
+matter.  With camp-craft, with its cunning devices, he is au fait.
+His bed is luxurious as a spring mattress.  Each night he has
+it made under his own supervision.  First, he has two straight
+poles cut, three or four inches in diameter; which are laid
+parallel one with another, at the distance of two feet; across
+these poles are laid short sticks, saplings, three feet long, and
+over them is laid a thick pile of grass; then comes a piece of
+waterproof canvas and blankets--and thus a bed has been
+improvised fit for a king.
+
+It was at Livingstone's instigation I purchased milch goats, by
+which, since leaving Ujiji, we have had a supply of fresh milk
+for our tea and coffee three times a day.  Apropos of this, we
+are great drinkers of these welcome stimulants; we seldom halt
+drinking until we have each had six or seven cups.  We have also
+been able to provide ourselves with music, which, though harsh,
+is better than none.  I mean the musical screech of parrots from
+Manyuema.
+
+Half-way between Mwaru--Kamirambo's village--and the deserted
+Tongoni of Ukamba, I carved the Doctor's initials and my own on
+a large tree, with the date February 2nd.  I have been twice
+guilty of this in Africa once when we were famishing in Southern
+Uvinza I inscribed the date, my initials, and the word "Starving,"
+in large letters on the trunk of a sycamore.
+
+In passing through the forest of Ukamba, we saw the bleached skull
+of an unfortunate victim to the privations of travel.  Referring to
+it, the Doctor remarked that he could never pass through an African
+forest, with its solemn stillness and serenity, without wishing to
+be buried quietly under the dead leaves, where he would be sure to
+rest undisturbed.  In England there was no elbow-room, the graves
+were often desecrated; and ever since he had buried his wife in
+the woods of Shupanga he had sighed for just such a spot, where his
+weary bones would receive the eternal rest they coveted.
+
+The same evening, when the tent door was down, and the interior
+was made cheerful by the light of a paraffin candle, the Doctor
+related to me some incidents respecting the career and the death
+of his eldest son, Robert.  Readers of Livingstone's first book,
+`South Africa,' without which no boy should be, will probably
+recollect the dying Sebituane's regard for the little boy
+"Robert."  Mrs. Livingstone and family were taken to the Cape of
+Good Hope, and thence sent to England, where Robert was put in the
+charge of a tutor; but wearied of inactivity, when he was about
+eighteen, he left Scotland and came to Natal, whence he endeavoured
+to reach his father.  Unsuccessful in his attempt, he took ship and
+sailed for New York, and enlisted in the Northern Army, in a New
+Hampshire regiment of Volunteers, discarding his own name of Robert
+Moffatt Livingstone, and taking that of Rupert Vincent that his
+tutor, who seems to have been ignorant of his duties to the youth,
+might not find him.  From one of the battles before Richmond, he
+was conveyed to a North Carolina hospital, where he died from his
+wounds.
+
+On the 7th of February we arrived at the Gombe, and camped near
+one of its largest lakes.  This lake is probably several miles in
+length, and swarms with hippopotami and crocodiles.
+
+From this camp I despatched Ferajji, the cook, and Chowpereh to
+Unyanyembe, to bring the letters and medicines that were sent to
+me from Zanzibar, and meet us at Ugunda, while the next day we moved
+to our old quarters on the Gombe, where we were first introduced to
+the real hunter's paradise in Central Africa.  The rain had
+scattered the greater number of the herds, but there was plenty of
+game in the vicinity.  Soon after breakfast I took Khamisi and
+Kalulu with me for a hunt.  After a long walk we arrived near a
+thin jungle, where I discovered the tracks of several animals--boar,
+antelope, elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, and an unusual
+number of imprints of the lion's paw.  Suddenly I heard Khamisi
+say, "Master, master!  here is a `simba!' (lion);" and he came
+up to me trembling with excitement and fear--for the young fellow
+was an arrant coward--to point out the head of a beast, which could
+be seen just above the tall grass, looking steadily towards us.
+It immediately afterwards bounded from side to side, but the grass
+was so high that it was impossible to tell exactly what it was.
+Taking advantage of a tree in my front, I crept quietly onwards,
+intending to rest the heavy rifle against it, as I was so weak
+from the effects of several fevers that I felt myself utterly
+incapable of supporting my rifle for a steady aim.  But my
+surprise was great when I cautiously laid it against the tree,
+and then directed its muzzle to the spot where I had seen him
+stand.  Looking further away--to where the grass was thin and
+scant--I saw the animal bound along at a great rate, and that
+it was a lion: the noble monarch of the forest was in full
+flight!  From that moment I ceased to regard him as the
+"mightiest among the brutes;" or his roar as anything more
+fearful in broad daylight than a sucking dove's.
+
+The next day was also a halt, and unable to contain my longing
+for the chase, where there used to be such a concourse of game
+of all kinds, soon after morning coffee, and after despatching
+a couple of men with presents to my friend Ma-manyara, of
+ammonia-bottle memory, I sauntered out once more for the park.
+Not five hundred yards from the camp, myself and men were suddenly
+halted by hearing in our immediate vicinity, probably within
+fifty yards or so, a chorus of roars, issuing from a triplet
+of lions.  Instinctively my fingers raised the two hammers, as
+I expected a general onset on me; for though one lion might fly,
+it was hardly credible that three should.  While looking keenly
+about I detected, within easy rifle-shot, a fine hartebeest,
+trembling and cowering behind a tree, as if it expected the fangs
+of the lion in its neck.  Though it had its back turned to me, I
+thought a bullet might plough its way to a vital part, and without
+a moment's hesitation I aimed and fired.  The animal gave a
+tremendous jump, as if it intended to take a flying leap through
+the tree; but recovering itself it dashed through the underbrush
+in a different direction from that in which I supposed the lions
+to be, and I never saw it again, though I knew I had struck it
+from the bloody trail it left; neither did I see nor hear anything
+more of the lions.  I searched far and wide over the park-land for
+prey of some kind, but was compelled to return unsuccessful to camp.
+
+Disgusted with my failure, we started a little after noon for
+Manyara, at which place we were hospitably greeted by my friend,
+who had sent men to tell me that his white brother must not halt
+in the woods but must come to his village.  "We received a present
+of honey and food from the chief, which was most welcome to us in
+our condition.  Here was an instance of that friendly disposition
+among Central African chiefs when they have not been spoiled by
+the Arabs, which Dr. Livingstone found among the Babisa and
+Ba-ulungu, and in Manyuema.  I received the same friendly
+recognition from all the chiefs, from Imrera, in Ukawendi,
+to Unyanyembe, as I did from Ma-manyara.
+
+On the 14th we arrived at Ugunda, and soon after we had established
+ourselves comfortably in a hut which the chief lent us for our use,
+in came Ferajji and Chowpereh, bringing with them Sarmean and Uledi
+Manwa Sera, who, it will be recollected, were the two soldiers sent
+to Zanzibar with letters and who should Sarmean have in charge but
+the deserter Hamdallah, who decamped at Manyara, as we were going
+to Ujiji.  This fellow, it seems, had halted at Kigandu, and had
+informed the chief and the doctor of the village that he had been
+sent by the white man to take back the cloth left there for the
+cure of Mabruk Saleem; and the simple chief had commanded it to
+be given up to him upon his mere word, in consequence of which
+the sick man had died.
+
+Upon Sarmean's arrival in Unyanyembe from Zanzibar, about fifty
+days after the Expedition had departed for Ujiji the news he
+received was that the white man (Shaw) was dead; and that a man
+called Hamdallah, who had engaged himself as one of my guides,
+but who had shortly after returned, was at Unyanyembe.  He had
+left him unmolested until the appearance of Ferajji and his
+companion, when they at once, in a body, made a descent on his
+hut and secured him.  With the zeal which always distinguished
+him in my service, Sarmean had procured a forked pole, between
+the prongs of which the neck of the absconder was placed; and
+a cross stick, firmly lashed, effectually prevented him from
+relieving himself of the incumbrance attached to him so
+deftly.
+
+There were no less than seven packets of letters and newspapers
+from Zanzibar, which had been collecting during my absence from
+Unyanyembe.  These had been intrusted at various times to the
+chiefs of caravans, who had faithfully delivered them at my
+tembe, according to their promise to the Consul.  There was one
+packet for me, which contained two or three letters for
+Dr. Livingstone, to whom, of course, they were at once transferred,
+with my congratulations.  In the same packet there was also a
+letter to me from the British Consul at Zanzibar requesting me
+to take charge of Livingstone's goods and do the best I could
+to forward them on to him, dated 25th September, 1871, five days
+after I left Unyanyembe on my apparently hopeless task.
+
+"Well, Doctor," said I to Livingstone, "the English Consul
+requests me to do all I can to push forward your goods to you.
+I am sorry that I did not get the authority sooner, for I should
+have attempted it; but in the absence of these instructions I
+have done the best I could by pushing you towards the goods.
+The mountain has not been able to advance towards Mohammed,
+but Mohammed has been compelled to advance towards the mountain."
+
+But Dr. Livingstone was too deeply engrossed in his own letters
+from home, which were just a year old.
+
+I received good and bad news from New York, but the good news was
+subsequent, and wiped out all feelings that might have been evoked
+had I received the bad only.  But the newspapers, nearly a hundred
+of them, New York, Boston, and London journals, were full of most
+wonderful news.  The Paris Commune was in arms against the National
+Assembly; the Tuileries, the Louvre, and the ancient city Lutetia
+Parisiorum had been set in flames by the blackguards of
+Saint-Antoine!  French troops massacring and murdering men,
+women, and children; rampant diabolism, and incarnate revenge were
+at work in the most beautiful city in the world!  Fair women
+converted into demons, and dragged by ruffianly soldiery through
+the streets to universal execration and pitiless death; children
+of tender age pinned to the earth and bayoneted; men innocent or
+not, shot, cut, stabbed, slashed, destroyed--a whole city given
+up to the summa injuria of an infuriate, reckless, and brutal army!
+Oh France!  Oh Frenchmen!  Such things are unknown even in the
+heart of barbarous Central Africa.  We spurned the newspapers with
+our feet; and for relief to sickened hearts gazed on the comic side
+of our world, as illustrated in the innocent pages of `Punch.'
+Poor 'Punch!' good-hearted, kindly-natured `Punch!' a traveller's
+benison on thee!  Thy jokes were as physic; thy innocent satire
+was provocative of hysteric mirth.
+
+Our doors were crowded with curious natives, who looked with
+indescribable wonder at the enormous sheets.  I heard them repeat
+the words, "Khabari Kisungu"--white man's news--often, and heard
+them discussing the nature of such a quantity of news, and
+expressing their belief that the "Wasungu" were "mbyah sana,"
+and very  "mkali;" by which they meant to say that the white men
+were very wicked, and very smart and clever though the term
+wicked is often employed to express high admiration.
+
+On the fourth day from Ugunda, or the 18th of February, and the
+fifty-third day from Ujiji, we made our appearance with flags
+flying and guns firing in the valley of Kwihara, and when the
+Doctor and myself passed through the portals of my old quarters
+I formally welcomed him to Unyanyembe and to my house.
+
+Since the day I had left the Arabs, sick and, weary almost with
+my life, but, nevertheless, imbued with the high hope that my
+mission would succeed, 131 days had elapsed--with what vicissitudes
+of fortune the reader well knows--during which time I had journeyed
+over 1,200 miles.
+
+The myth after which I travelled through the wilderness proved to
+be a fact; and never was the fact more apparent than when the
+Living Man walked with me arm in arm to my old room, and I said
+to him, "Doctor, we are at last HOME!"
+
+
+CHAPTER XV. HOMEWARD BOUND.--LIVINGSTONE'S LAST WORDS
+            THE FINAL FAREWELL
+
+
+
+Unyanyembe was now to me a terrestrial Paradise.  Livingstone was
+no less happy; he was in comfortable quarters, which were a palace
+compared to his hut in Ujiji.  Our store-rooms were full of the
+good things of this life, besides cloth, beads, wire, and the
+thousand and one impedimenta and paraphernalia of travel with which
+I had loaded over one hundred and fifty men at Bagamoyo.  I had
+seventy-four loads of miscellaneous things, the most valuable of
+which were now to be turned over to Livingstone, for his march back
+to the sources of the Nile.
+
+It was a great day with, us when, with hammer and chisel, I broke
+open the Doctor's boxes, that we might feast our famished stomachs
+on the luxuries which were to redeem us from the effect of the
+cacotrophic dourra and maize food we had been subjected to in the
+wilderness.  I conscientiously believed that a diet on potted ham,
+crackers, and jellies would make me as invincible as Talus, and
+that I only required a stout flail to be able to drive the mighty
+Wagogo into the regions of annihiliation, should they dare even to
+wink in a manner I disapproved.
+
+The first box opened contained three tins of biscuits, six tins
+of potted hams--tiny things, not much larger than thimbles, which,
+when opened, proved to be nothing more than a table-spoonful of
+minced meat plentifully seasoned with pepper: the Doctor's stores
+fell five hundred degrees below zero in my estimation.  Next were
+brought out five pots of jam, one of which was opened--this was also
+a delusion.  The stone jars weighed a pound, and in each was found
+a little over a tea-spoonful of jam.  Verily, we began to think our
+hopes and expectations had been raised to too high a pitch.  Three
+bottles of curry were next produced--but who cares for curry?
+Another box was opened, and out tumbled a fat dumpy Dutch cheese,
+hard as a brick, but sound and good; though it is bad for the
+liver in Unyamwezi.  Then another cheese was seen, but this was
+all eaten up--it was hollow and a fraud.  The third box contained
+nothing but two sugar loaves;  the fourth, candles; the fifth,
+bottles of salt, Harvey, Worcester, and Reading sauces, essence
+of anchovies, pepper, and mustard.  Bless me! what food were these
+for the revivifying of a moribund such as I was!  The sixth box
+contained four shirts, two pairs of stout shoes, some stockings and
+shoe-strings, which delighted the Doctor so much when he tried them
+on that he exclaimed, "Richard is himself again!"  "That man," said
+I, "whoever he is, is a friend, indeed."  "Yes, that is my friend
+Waller."
+
+The five other boxes contained potted meat and soups;  but the
+twelfth, containing one dozen bottles of medicinal brandy, was
+gone;and a strict cross-examination of Asmani, the head man of
+Livingstone's caravan, elicited the fact, that not only was one
+case of brandy missing, but also two bales of cloth and four bags
+of the most valuable beads in Africa--sami-sami--which are as gold
+with the natives.
+
+I was grievously disappointed after the stores had been examined;
+everything proved to be deceptions in my jaundiced eyes.  Out of
+the tins of biscuits when opened, there was only one sound box;
+the whole of which would not make one full meal.  The soups--who
+cared for meat soups in Africa?  Are there no bullocks, and sheep,
+and goats in the land, from which far better soup can be made than
+any that was ever potted?  Peas, or any other kind of vegetable
+soup, would have been a luxury; but chicken and game soups!--what
+nonsense!
+
+I then overhauled my own stores.  I found some fine old brandy
+and one bottle of champagne still left; though it was evident,
+in looking at the cloth bales, that dishonesty had been at work;
+and some person happened to suggest Asmani--the head man sent by
+Dr. Kirk in charge of Livingstone's goods--as the guilty party.
+Upon his treasures being examined, I found eight or ten coloured
+cloths, with the mark of my own agent at Zanzibar on them.  As he
+was unable to give a clear account of how they came in his box,
+they were at once confiscated, and distributed among the most
+deserving of the Doctor's people.  Some of the watchmen also
+accused him of having entered into my store-room, and of having
+abstracted two or three gorah of domestics from my bales,
+and of having, some days afterwards, snatched the keys from the
+hands of one of my men, and broken them, lest other people might
+enter, and find evidences of his guilt.  As Asmani was proved to
+be another of the "moral idiots," Livingstone discharged him on
+the spot.  Had we not arrived so soon at Unyanyembe, it is probable
+that the entire stock sent from Zanzibar had in time disappeared.
+
+Unyanyembe being rich in fruits, grain, and cattle, we determined
+to have our Christmas dinner over again in style, and, being
+fortunately in pretty good health, I was enabled to superintend
+its preparation.  Never was such prodigality seen in a tembe of
+Unyamwezi as was seen in ours, nor were ever such delicacies
+provided.
+
+There were but few Arabs in Unyanyembe when we arrived, as they
+were investing the stronghold of Mirambo.  About a week after our
+return, "the little mannikin," Sheikh Sayd bin Salim--El Wali--who
+was the commander-in-chief of their forces, came to Kwihara from
+the front.  But the little Sheikh was in no great hurry to greet
+the man he had wronged so much.  As soon as we heard of his arrival
+we took the opportunity to send men immediately after the goods
+which were forwarded to the Wali's care soon after Livingstone's
+departure for Mikindany Bay.  The first time we sent men for them
+the governor declared himself too sick to attend to such matters,
+but the second day they were surrendered, with a request that the
+Doctor would not be very angry at their condition, as the white
+ants had destroyed everything.
+
+The stores this man had detained at Unyanyembe were in a most sorry
+state.  The expenses were prepaid for their carriage to Ujiji, but
+the goods had been purposely detained at this place by Sayd bin
+Salim since 1867 that he might satisfy his appetite for liquor,
+and probably fall heir to two valuable guns that were known to be
+with them.  The white ants had not only eaten up bodily the box
+in which the guns were packed, but they had also eaten the gunstocks.
+The barrels were corroded, and the locks were quite destroyed.
+The brandy bottles, most singular to relate, had also fallen a prey
+to the voracious and irresistible destroyers the white ants--and,
+by some unaccountable means, they had imbibed the potent Hennessy,
+and replaced the corks with corn-cobs.  The medicines had also
+vanished, and the zinc pots in which they had been snugly packed
+up were destroyed by corrosion.  Two bottles of brandy and one small
+zinc case of medicines only were saved out of the otherwise utter
+wreck.
+
+I also begged the Doctor to send to Sheikh Sayd, and ask him if he
+had received the two letters despatched by him upon his first
+arrival at Ujiji for Dr. Kirk and Lord Clarendon; and if he had
+forwarded them to the coast, as he was desired to do.  The reply
+to the messengers was in the affirmative; and, subsequently, I
+obtained the same answer in the presence of the Doctor,
+
+On the 222nd of February, the pouring rain, which had dogged us
+the entire distance from Ujiji, ceased, and we had now beautiful
+weather; and while I prepared for the homeward march, the Doctor
+was busy writing his letters, and entering his notes into his
+journal, which I was to take to his family.  When not thus
+employed, we paid visits to the Arabs at Tabora, by whom we were
+both received with that bounteous hospitality for which they are
+celebrated.
+
+Among the goods turned over by me to Dr. Livingstone, while
+assorting such cloths as I wished to retain for my homeward trip,
+were--
+
+                                      Doti.   Yards.
+
+First-class American sheeting .  .  .  285  =  1140
+
+  "         Kaniki (blue stuff) .  .  .  16  =   64
+
+Medium        "    (blue stuff) .  .  .  60  =  240
+
+  "          Dabwani cloth   .  .  .  .  41  =   64
+
+             Barsati cloths .  .  .  .   28  =  112
+
+             Printed handkerchiefs .  .  70  =  280
+
+Medium Rehani cloth   .  .  .  .  .     127  =  508
+
+  "    Ismahili  "           .  .  .  .  20  =   80
+
+  "    Sohari    "  .  .  .  .  .        20  =   80
+
+4 pieces fine Kungura (red check)        22  =   88
+
+4 gorah Rehani .  .  .  .  .  .  .        8  =   32
+
+Total number of cloths .                697  =  2788
+
+Besides:
+
+Cloth, 2788 yards.
+
+Assorted beads, 16 sacks, weight = 992 lbs.
+
+Brass wire, Nos.  5 and 6; 10 fraslilah = 350 lbs.
+
+1 canvas tent, waterproof.
+
+1 air-bed.
+
+1 boat (canvas}
+
+1 bag of tools, carpenter's.
+
+1 rip saw.
+
+2 barrels of tar.
+
+12 sheets of ship's copper = 60 lbs.
+
+Clothes.
+
+1 Jocelyn breech-loader (metallic cartridge).
+
+1 Starr's       "           "         "
+
+1 Henry  (16-shooter)       "         "
+
+1 revolver.
+
+200 rounds revolver ammunition.
+
+2000  "      Jocelyn and Starrs ammunition.
+
+1500  "      Henry rifle ammunition.
+
+Cooking utensils, medicine chest, books, sextant, canvas bags, &c.,
+&c., &c.
+
+The above made a total of about forty loads.  Many things in the
+list would have brought fancy prices in Unyanyembe, especially
+the carbines and ammunition, the saw, carpenter's tools the beads,
+and wire.  Out of the thirty-three loads which were stored for him
+in my tembe--the stock sent to Livingstone, Nov. 1,1870--but few
+of them would be available for his return trip to Rua and Manyuema.
+The 696 doti of cloth which were left to him formed the only
+marketable articles of value he possessed; and in Manyuema, where
+the natives manufactured their own cloth, such an article would be
+considered a drug; while my beads and wire, with economy, would
+suffice to keep him and his men over two years in those regions.
+His own cloth, and what I gave him, made in the aggregate 1,393
+doti, which, at 2 doti per day for food, were sufficient to keep
+him and sixty men 696 days.  He had thus four years' supplies.
+The only articles he lacked to make a new and completely fitted-up
+expedition were the following, a list of which he and I drew up;--
+
+A few tins of American wheat-flour.
+    "   "     soda crackers.
+    "   "     preserved fruits
+A few tins of salmon,
+10 lbs.  Hyson tea.
+Some sewing thread and needles.
+1 dozen official envelopes.
+`Nautical Almanac' for 1872 and 1873.
+1 blank journal.
+1 chronometer, stopped.
+1 chain for refractory people.
+
+With the articles just named he would have a total of seventy
+loads, but without carriers they were an incumbrance to him; for,
+with only the nine men which he now had, he could go nowhere with
+such a splendid assortment of goods.  I was therefore commissioned
+to enlist,--as soon as I reached Zanzibar,--fifty freemen, arm them
+with a gun and hatchet each man, besides accoutrements, and to
+purchase two thousand bullets, one thousand flints, and ten kegs of
+gunpowder.  The men were to act as carriers, to follow wherever
+Livingstone might desire to go.  For, without men, he was simply
+tantalized with the aspirations roused in him by the knowledge
+that he had abundance of means, which were irrealizable without
+carriers.  All the wealth of London and New York piled before him
+were totally unavailable to him without the means of locomotion.
+No Mnyamwezi engages himself as carrier during war-time.  You who
+have read the diary of my  'Life in Unyanyembe' know what stubborn
+Conservatives the Wanyamwezi are.  A duty lay yet before me which
+I owed to my illustrious companion, and that was to hurry to the
+coast as if on a matter of life and death--act for him in the matter
+of enlisting men as if he were there himself--to work for him with
+the same zeal as I would for myself--not to halt or rest until his
+desires should be gratified, And this I vowed to do; but it was
+a death-blow to my project of going down the Nile, and getting
+news of Sir S. Baker.
+
+The Doctor's task of writing his letters was ended.  He delivered
+into my hand twenty letters for Great Britain, six for Bombay,
+two for New York, and one for Zanzibar.  The two letters for New
+York were for James Gordon Bennett, junior, as he alone, not his
+father, was responsible for the Expedition sent under my command.
+I beg the reader's pardon for republishing one of these letters
+here, as its spirit and style indicate the man, the mere knowledge
+of whose life or death was worth a costly Expedition.
+
+Ujiji, on Tanganika, East Africa, November, 1871.
+
+James Gordon Bennett, Jr., Esq.
+
+My Dear Sir,--It is in general somewhat difficult to write to one
+we have never seen--it feels so much like addressing an abstract
+idea--but the presence of your representative, Mr. H. M. Stanley,
+in this distant region takes away the strangeness I should otherwise
+have felt, and in writing to thank you for the extreme kindness
+that prompted you to send him, I feel quite at home.
+
+If I explain the forlorn condition in which he found me you will
+easily perceive that I have good reason to use very strong
+expressions of gratitude.  I came to Ujiji off a tramp of between
+four hundred and five hundred miles, beneath a blazing vertical
+sun, having been baffled, worried, defeated and forced to return,
+when almost in sight of the end of the geographical part of my
+mission, by a number of half-caste Moslem slaves sent to me from
+Zanzibar, instead of men.  The sore heart made still sorer by the
+woeful sights I had seen of man's inhumanity to man racked and
+told on the bodily frame, and depressed it beyond measure.  I
+thought that I was dying on my feet.  It is not too much to say
+that almost every step of the weary sultry way was in pain, and
+I reached Ujiji a mere ruckle of bones.
+
+There I found that some five hundred pounds' sterling worth of
+goods which I had ordered from Zanzibar had unaccountably been
+entrusted to a drunken half-caste Moslem tailor, who, after
+squandering them for sixteen months on the way to Ujiji; finished
+up by selling off all that remained for slaves and ivory for himself.
+He had "divined" on the Koran and found that I was dead.  He had
+also written to the Governor of Unyanyembe that he had sent slaves
+after me to Manyuema, who returned and reported my decease, and
+begged permission to sell off the few goods that his drunken
+appetite had spared.
+
+He, however, knew perfectly well, from men who had seen me, that
+I was alive, and waiting for the goods and men; but as for morality,
+he is evidently an idiot, and there being no law here except that
+of the dagger or musket, I had to sit down in great weakness,
+destitute of everything save a few barter cloths and beads, which
+I had taken the precaution to leave here in case of extreme need.
+
+The near prospect of beggary among Ujijians made me miserable.
+
+I could not despair, because I laughed so much at a friend who,
+on reaching the mouth of the Zambezi, said that he was tempted
+to despair on breaking the photograph of his wife.  We could have
+no success after that.  Afterward the idea of despair had to me
+such a strong smack of the ludicrous that it was out of the
+question.
+
+Well, when I had got to about the lowest verge, vague rumors of
+an English visitor reached me.  I thought of myself as the man
+who went down from Jerusalem to Jericho; but neither priest, Levite,
+nor Samaritan could possibly pass my way.  Yet the good Samaritan
+was close at hand, and one of my people rushed up at the top of
+his speed, and, in great excitement, gasped out, "An Englishman
+coming!  I see him!" and off he darted to meet him.
+
+An American flag, the first ever seen in these parts, at the head
+of a caravan, told me the nationality of the stranger.
+
+I am as cold and non-demonstrative as we islanders are usually
+reputed to be; but your kindness made my frame thrill.  It was,
+indeed, overwhelming, and I said in my soul, "Let the richest
+blessings descend from the Highest on you and yours!"
+
+The news Mr. Stanley had to tell was thrilling.  The mighty
+political changes on the Continent; the success of the Atlantic
+cables; the election of General Grant, and many other topics'
+riveted my attention for days together, and had an immediate and
+beneficial effect on my health.  I had been without news from
+home for years save what I could glean from a few 'Saturday
+Reviews' and 'Punch' of 1868.  The appetite revived, and in a
+week I began to feel strong again.
+
+Mr. Stanley brought a most kind and encouraging despatch from
+Lord Clarendon (whose loss I sincerely deplore), the first I have
+received from the Foreign Office since 1866, and information that
+the British Government had kindly sent a thousand pounds sterling
+to my aid.  Up to his arrival I was not aware of any pecuniary
+aid.  I came unsalaried, but this want is now happily repaired,
+and I am anxious that you and all my friends should know that,
+though uncheered by letter, I have stuck to the task which my
+friend Sir Roderick Murchison set me with "John Bullish" tenacity,
+believing that all would come right at last.
+
+The watershed of South Central Africa is over seven hundred wiles
+in length.  The fountains thereon are almost innumerable--that is,
+it would take a man's lifetime to count them.  From the watershed
+they converge into four large rivers, and these again into two
+mighty streams in the great Nile valley, which begins in ten degrees
+to twelve degrees south latitude.  It was long ere light dawned on
+the ancient problem and gave me a clear idea of the drainage.  I had
+to feel my way, and every step of the way, and was, generally,
+groping in the dark--for who cared where the rivers ran?  "We drank
+our fill and let the rest run by."
+
+The Portuguese who visited Cazembe asked for slaves and ivory, and
+heard of nothing else.  I asked about the waters, questioned and
+cross-questioned, until I was almost afraid of being set down as
+afflicted with hydrocephalus.
+
+My last work, in which I have been greatly hindered from want of
+suitable attendants, was following the central line of drainage
+down through the country of the cannibals, called Manyuema, or,
+shortly Manyema.  This line of drainage has four large lakes in
+it.  The fourth I was near when obliged to turn.  It is from one
+to three miles broad, and never can be reached at any point, or
+at any time of the year.  Two western drains, the Lufira, or Bartle
+Frere's River, flow into it at Lake Kamolondo.  Then the great
+River Lomame flows through Lake Lincoln into it too, and seems
+to form the western arm of the Nile, on which Petherick traded.
+
+Now, I knew about six hundred miles of the watershed, and
+unfortunately the seventh hundred is the most interesting of the
+whole; for in it, if I am not mistaken, four fountains arise from
+an earthen mound, and the last of the four becomes, at no great
+distance off, a large river.
+
+Two of these run north to Egypt, Lufira and Lomame, and two run
+south into inner Ethiopia, as the Leambaye, or Upper Zambezi, and
+the Kaful.
+
+Are not these the sources of the Nile mentioned by the Secretary
+of Minerva, in the city of Sais, to Herodotus?
+
+I have heard of them so often, and at great distances off, that I
+cannot doubt their existence, and in spite of the sore longing for
+home that seizes me every time I think of my family, I wish to
+finish up by their rediscovery.
+
+Five hundred pounds sterling worth of goods have again
+unaccountably been entrusted to slaves, and have been over a year
+on the way, instead of four months.  I must go where they lie at
+your expense, ere I can put the natural completion to my work.
+
+And if my disclosures regarding the terrible Ujijian slavery
+should lead to the suppression of the East Coast slave trade, I
+shall regard that as a greater matter by far than the discovery
+of all the Nile sources together.  Now that you have done with
+domestic slavery for ever, lend us your powerful aid toward this
+great object.  This fine country is blighted, as with a curse from
+above, in order that the slavery privileges of the petty Sultan
+of Zanzibar may not be infringed, and the rights of the Crown of
+Portugal, which are mythical, should be kept in abeyance till some
+future time when Africa will become another India to Portuguese
+slave-traders.
+
+I conclude by again thanking you most cordially for your great
+generosity, and am,
+
+Gratefully yours,
+
+David Livingstone.
+
+
+To the above letter I have nothing to add--it speaks for itself;
+but I then thought it was the best evidence of my success.  For
+my own part, I cared not one jot or tittle about his discoveries,
+except so far as it concerned the newspaper which commissioned me
+for the "search."  It is true I felt curious as to the result of his
+travels; but, since he confessed that he had not completed what he
+had begun, I felt considerable delicacy to ask for more than he
+could afford to give.  His discoveries were the fruits of of
+his own labours--to him they belonged--by their publication he
+hoped to obtain his reward, which he desired to settle on his
+children.  Yet Livingstone had a higher and nobler ambition than
+the mere pecuniary sum he would receive: he followed the
+dictates of duty.  Never was such a willing slave to that abstract
+virtue.  His inclinations impelled him home, the fascinations of
+which it required the sternest resolves to resist.  With every
+foot of new ground he travelled over he forged a chain of sympathy
+which should hereafter bind the Christian nations in bonds of love
+and charity to the Heathen of the African tropics.  If he were
+able to complete this chain of love--by actual discovery and
+description of them to embody such peoples and nations as still
+live in darkness, so as to attract the good and charitable of his
+own land to bestir themselves for their redemption and salvation--
+this, Livingstone would consider an ample reward.
+
+"A delirious and fatuous enterprise, a Quixotic scheme!" some will
+say.  Not it, my friends; for as sure as the sun shines on both
+Christian and Infidel, civilised and Pagan, the day of enlightenment
+will come; and, though Livingstone, the Apostle of Africa, may not
+behold it himself, nor we younger men, not yet our children, the
+Hereafter will see it, and posterity will recognise the daring
+pioneer of its civilization.
+
+The following items are extracted in their entirety from my Diary:
+
+March 12th.--The Arabs have sent me as many as forty-five letters
+to carry to the coast.  I am turned courier in my latter days;
+but the reason is that no regularly organized caravans are permitted
+to leave Unyanyembe now, because of the war with Mirambo.  What if
+I had stayed all this time at Unyanyembe waiting for the war to end!
+It is my opinion that, the Arabs will not be able to conquer Mirambo
+under nine months yet.
+
+To-night the natives have gathered themselves together to give me
+a farewell dance in front of my house.  I find them to be the
+pagazis of Singiri, chief of Mtesa's caravan.  My men joined in,
+and, captivated by the music despite myself, I also struck in, and
+performed the "light fantastic," to the intense admiration of my
+braves, who were delighted to see their master unbend a little from
+his usual stiffness.
+
+It is a wild dance altogether.  The music is lively, and evoked
+from the sonorous sound of four drums, which are arranged before
+the bodies of four men, who stand in the centre of the weird
+circle.  Bombay, as ever comical, never so much at home as when in
+the dance of the Mrima, has my water-bucket on his head; Chowpereh--
+the sturdy, the nimble, sure-footed Chowpereh--has an axe in his
+hand, and wears a goatskin on his head; Baraka has my bearskin,
+and handles a spear; Mabruki, the "Bull-headed," has entered into
+the spirit of the thing, and steps up and down like a solemn
+elephant; Ulimengo has a gun, and is a fierce Drawcansir, and you
+would imagine he was about to do battle to a hundred thousand,
+so ferocious is he in appearance; Khamisi and Kamna are before
+the drummers, back to back, kicking up ambitiously at the stars;
+Asmani,--the embodiment of giant strength,--a towering Titan,--
+has also a gun, with which he is dealing blows in the air, as if
+he were Thor, slaying myriads with his hammer.  The scruples and
+passions of us all are in abeyance; we are contending demons under
+the heavenly light of the stars, enacting only the part of a weird
+drama, quickened into action and movement by the appalling energy
+and thunder of the drums.
+
+The warlike music is ended, and another is started.  The choragus
+has fallen on his knees, and dips his head two or three times in an
+excavation in the ground, and a choir, also on their knees, repeat
+in dolorous tones the last words of a slow and solemn refrain.  The
+words are literally translated:--
+
+Choragus.  Oh-oh-oh! the white man is going home!
+
+Choir.     Oh-oh-oh! going home!
+                     Going home, oh-oh-oh!
+
+Choragus.  To the happy island on the sea,
+           Where the beads are plenty, oh-oh-oh!
+
+Choir.     Oh-oh-oh! where the beads are plenty,
+                     Oh-oh-oh!
+
+Choragus.  While Singiri has kept us, oh, very long
+           From our homes very long, oh-oh-oh.!
+
+Choir      From our homes, oh-oh-oh!
+                      Oh-oh-oh!
+
+Choragus.  And we have had no food for very long--
+           We are half-starved, oh, for so long!
+                      Bana Singiri!
+
+Choir.     For so very long, oh-oh-oh!
+                       Bana Singiri-Singiri!
+                            Singiri! oh, Singiri
+
+Choragus.  Mirambo has gone to war
+           To fight against the Arabs;
+           The Arabs and Wangwana
+           Have gone to fight Mirambo!
+
+Choir      Oh-oh-oh! to fight Mirambo!
+
+                        Oh, Mirambo! Mirambo
+                        Oh, to fight Mirambo!
+
+Choragus.  But the white man will make us glad,
+           He is going home!  For he is going home,
+           And he will make us glad!  Sh-sh-sh!
+
+Choir.     The white man will make us glad!  Sh-sh-sh
+                        Sh-----sh-h-h-----sh-h-h-h-h-h!
+                        Um-m--mu---um-m-m----sh!
+
+This is the singular farewell which I received from the Wanyamwezi
+of Singiri, and for its remarkable epic beauty(?), rhythmic
+excellence(?), and impassioned force(?), I have immortalised it in
+the pages of this book, as one of the most wonderful productions of
+the chorus-loving children of Unyamwezi.
+
+March 13th.--The last day of my stay with Livingstone has come
+and gone, and the last night we shall be together is present, and
+I cannot evade the morrow!  I feel as though I would rebel against
+the fate which drives me away from him.  The minutes beat fast,
+and grow into hours.
+
+Our door is closed, and we are both of us busy with our own
+thoughts.  What his thoughts are I know not.  Mine are sad.  My
+days seem to have been spent in an Elysian field; otherwise, why
+should I so keenly regret the near approach of the parting hour?
+Have I not been battered by successive fevers, prostrate with
+agony day after day lately?  Have I not raved and stormed in
+madness?  Have I not clenched my fists in fury, and fought with
+the wild strength of despair when in delirium?  Yet, I regret to
+surrender the pleasure I have felt in this man's society, though
+so dearly purchased.
+
+I cannot resist the sure advance of time, which flies this night
+as if it mocked me, and gloated on the misery it created!
+Be it so!
+
+How many times have I not suffered the pang of parting with
+friends!  I wished to linger longer, but the inevitable would
+come--Fate sundered us.  This is the same regretful feeling, only
+it is more poignant, and the farewell may be forever!  FOREVER?
+And "FOR EVER," echo the reverberations of a woful whisper.
+
+I have noted down all he has said to-night; but the reader shall
+not share it with me.  It is mine!
+
+I am as jealous as he is himself of his Journal; and I have
+written in German text, and in round hand, on either side of it,
+on the waterproof canvas cover, "POSITTVELY NOT TO BE OPENED;"
+to which he has affixed his signature.  I have stenographed every
+word he has said to me respecting the equable distribution of
+certain curiosities among his friends and children, and his last
+wish about "his" dear old friend, Sir Roderick Murchison, because
+he has been getting anxious about him ever since we received the
+newspapers at Ugunda, when we read that the old man was suffering
+from a paralytic stroke.  I must be sure to send him the news, as
+soon as I get to Aden; and I have promised that he will receive
+the message from me quicker than anything was ever received in
+Central Africa.
+
+"To-morrow night, Doctor, you will be alone!"
+
+"Yes; the house will look as though a death had taken place.
+You had better stop until the rains, which are now near,
+are over."
+
+"I would to God I could, my dear Doctor; but every day I stop
+here, now that there is no necessity for me to stay longer, keeps
+you from your work and home."
+
+"I know; but consider your health--you are not fit to travel.
+What is it?  Only a few weeks longer.  You will travel to the
+coast just as quickly when the rains are over as you will by
+going now.  The plains will be inundated between here and the
+coast."
+
+"You think so; but I will reach the coast in forty days; if
+not in forty, I will in fifty--certain.  The thought that I
+am doing you an important service will spur me on."
+
+March 14th.--At dawn we were up, the bales and baggage were taken
+outside of the building, and the men prepared themselves for the
+first march towards home.
+
+We had a sad breakfast together.  I could not eat, my heart was
+too full; neither did my companion seem to have an appetite.  We
+found something to do which kept us longer together.  At 8 o'clock
+I was not gone, and I had thought to have been off at 5 A.M.
+
+"Doctor," said I, "I will leave two men with you, who will stop
+to-day and to-morrow with you, for it may be that you have
+forgotten something in the hurry of my departure.  I will halt a
+day at Tura, on the frontier of Unyamwezi, for your last word,
+and your last wish; and now we must part--there is no help for it.
+Good-bye."
+
+"Oh, I am coming with you a little way.  I must see you off on
+the road."
+
+"Thank you.  Now, my men, Home!  Kirangozi, lift the flag, and
+MARCH!"
+
+The house looked desolate--it faded from our view.  Old times,
+and the memories of my aspirations and kindling hopes, came strong
+on me.  The old hills round about, that I once thought tame and
+uninteresting, had become invested with histories and reminiscences
+for me.  On that burzani I have sat hour after hour, dreaming, and
+hoping, and sighing.  On that col I stood, watching the battle and
+the destruction of Tabora.  Under that roof I have sickened and
+been delirious, and cried out like a child at the fate that
+threatened my mission.  Under that banian tree lay my dead comrade--
+poor Shaw; I would have given a fortune to have had him by my side
+at this time.  From that house I started on my journey to Ujiji;
+to it I returned as to a friend, with a newer and dearer companion;
+and now I leave all.  Already it all appears like a strange dream.
+
+We walked side by side; the men lifted their voices into a song.
+I took long looks at Livingstone, to impress his features
+thoroughly on my memory.
+
+"The thing is, Doctor, so far as I can understand it, you do not
+intend to return home until you have satisfied yourself about the
+`Sources of the Nile.' When you have satisfied yourself, you will
+come home and satisfy others.  Is it not so?"
+
+"That is it, exactly.  When your men come back, I shall immediately
+start for Ufipa; then, crossing the Rungwa River, I shall strike
+south, and round the extremity of the Tanganika.  Then, a south-east
+course will take me to Chicumbi's, on the Luapula.  On crossing
+the Luapula, I shall go direct west to the copper-mines of Katanga.
+Eight days south of Katanga, the natives declare the fountains to be.
+When I have found them, I shall return by Katanga to the underground
+houses of Rua.  From the caverns, ten days north-east will take
+me to Lake Kamolondo.  I shall be able to travel from the lake, in
+your boat, up the River Lufira, to Lake Lincoln.  Then, coming down
+again, I can proceed north, by the Lualaba, to the fourth lake--
+which, I think, will explain the whole problem; and I will probably
+find that it is either Chowambe (Baker's lake), or Piaggia's lake.
+
+"And how long do you think this little journey will take you?"
+
+"A year and a half, at the furthest, from the day I leave
+Unyanyembe."
+
+"Suppose you say two years; contingencies might arise, you know.
+It will be well for me to hire these new men for two years; the
+day of their engagement to begin from their arrival at Unyanyembe."
+
+"Yes, that will do excellently well."
+
+"Now, my dear Doctor, the best friends must part.  You have come
+far enough; let me beg of you to turn back."
+
+"Well, I will say this to you: you have done what few men could
+do--far better than some great travellers I know.  And I am grateful
+to you for what you have done for me.  God guide you safe home, and
+bless you, my friend."
+
+"And may God bring you safe back to us all, my dear friend.
+Farewell!"
+
+"Farewell!"
+
+We wrung each other's hands, and I had to tear myself away before
+I unmanned myself; but Susi, and Chumah, and Hamoydah--the Doctor's
+faithful fellows--they must all shake and kiss my hands before I
+could quite turn away.  I betrayed myself!
+
+"Good-bye, Doctor--dear friend!"
+
+"Good-bye!"
+
+The FAREWELL between Livingstone and myself had been spoken.  We
+were parted, he to whatever fate Destiny had yet in store for him,
+to battling against difficulties, to many, many days of marching
+through wildernesses, with little or nothing much to sustain him
+save his own high spirit, and enduring faith in God--"who would
+bring all things right at last;" and I to that which Destiny
+may have in store for me.
+
+But though I may live half a century longer, I shall never forget
+that parting scene in Central Africa.  I shall never cease to think
+of the sad tones of that sorrowful word Farewell, how they
+permeated through every core of my heart, how they clouded my
+eyes, and made me wish unutterable things which could never be.
+
+An audacious desire to steal one embrace from the dear old man came
+over me, and almost unmanned me.  I felt tempted to stop with him
+and assist him, on his long return march to the fountain region,
+but these things were not to be, any more than many other
+impulsive wishes, and despite the intensified emotions which filled
+both of us, save by silent tears, and a tremulous parting word,
+we did not betray our stoicism of manhood and race.
+
+I assumed a gruff voice, and ordered the Expedition to march,
+and I resolutely turned my face toward the eastern sky.  But ever
+and anon my eyes would seek that deserted figure of an old man in
+grey clothes, who with bended head and slow steps was returning to
+his solitude, the very picture of melancholy, and each time I saw
+him--as the plain was wide and clear of obstructions--I felt my
+eyes stream, and my heart swell with a vague, indefinable feeling
+of foreboding and sorrow.
+
+I thought of his lonely figure sitting day after day on the
+burzani of his house, by which all caravans from the coast would
+have to pass, and of the many, many times he would ask the
+new-comers whether they had passed any men coming along the road
+for him, and I thought as each day passed, and his stores and
+letters had not arrived how be would grieve at the lengthening
+delay.  I then felt strong again, as I felt that so long as I
+should be doing service for Livingstone, I was not quite parted
+from him, and by doing the work effectively and speedily the
+bond of friendship between us would be strengthened.  Such
+thoughts spurred me to the resolution to march so quickly for
+the coast, that Arabs in after time should marvel at the speed
+with which the white man's caravan travelled from Unyanyembe
+to Zanzibar.
+
+I took one more look at him; he was standing near the gate of
+Kwikuru with his servants near him.  I waved a handkerchief to him,
+as a final token of farewell, and he responded to it by lifting
+his cap.  It was the last opportunity, for we soon surmounted the
+crest of a land-wave, and began the descent into the depression on
+the other side, and I NEVER saw him more.
+
+God grant, dear reader, that if ever you take to travelling in
+Central Africa, you find as good and true a man, for your
+companion, as I found in noble David Livingstone.  For four months
+and four days he and I occupied the same house, or, the same tent,
+and I never had one feeling of resentment against him, nor did he
+show any against me, and the longer I lived with him the more did
+my admiration and reverence for him increase.
+
+What were Livingstone's thoughts during the time which elapsed
+between my departure for the coast, and the arrival of his
+supplies, may be gathered from a letter which he wrote on the 2nd
+of July to Mr. John F. Webb, American Consul at Zanzibar.
+
+  I have been waiting up here like Simeon Stylites on his pillar,
+  and counting every day, and conjecturing each step taken by our
+  friend towards the coast, wishing and praying that no sickness
+  might lay him up, no accident befall him, and no unlooked-for
+  combinations of circumstances render his kind intentions vain
+  or fruitless.  Mr. Stanley had got over the tendency to the
+  continued form of fever which is the most dangerous, and was
+  troubled only with the intermittent form, which is comparatively
+  safe, or I would not have allowed him, but would have accompanied
+  him to Zanzibar.  I did not tell himself so; nor did I say what I
+  thought, that he really did a very plucky thing in going through
+  the Mirambo war in spite of the remonstrances of all the Arabs,
+  and from Ujiji guiding me back to Unyanyembe.  The war, as it
+  is called, is still going on.  The danger lay not so much in
+  the actual fighting as in the universal lawlessness the war
+  engendered.
+
+I am not going to inflict on the reader a repetition of our march
+back, except to record certain incidents which occurred to us as we
+journeyed to the coast.
+
+March 17th.--We came to the Kwalah River.  The first rain of the
+Masika season fell on this day; I shall be mildewed before I reach
+the coast.  Last year's Masika began at Bagamoyo, March 23rd, and
+ended 30th April.
+
+The next day I halted the Expedition at Western Tura, on the
+Unyamwezi frontier, and on the 20th arrived at Eastern Tura; when,
+soon after, we heard a loud report of a gun, and Susi and Hamoydah,
+the Doctor's servants, with Uredi, and another of my men, appeared
+with a letter for "Sir Thomas MacLear, Observatory, Cape of Good
+Hope," and one for myself, which read as follows:
+
+Kwihara, March 15, 1872.
+
+Dear Stanley,
+
+If you can telegraph on your arrival in London, be particular,
+please, to say how Sir Roderick is.  You put the matter exactly
+yesterday, when you said that I was "not yet satisfied about the
+Sources; but as soon as I shall be satisfied, I shall return and
+give satisfactory reasons fit for other people."  This is just as
+it stands.
+
+I wish I could give you a better word than the Scotch one to "put
+a stout heart to a stey brae"--(a steep ascent)--for you will do
+that; and I am thankful that, before going away, the fever had
+changed into the intermittent, or safe form.  I would not have
+let you go, but with great concern, had you still been troubled
+with the continued type.  I feel comfortable in commending you
+to the guardianship of the good Lord and Father of all.
+
+I am gratefully yours,
+
+David Livingstone.
+
+I have worked as hard as I could copying observations made in one
+line of march from Kabuire, back again to Cazembe, and on to Lake
+Baugweolo, and am quite tired out.  My large figures fill six
+sheets of foolscap, and many a day will elapse ere I take to
+copying again.  I did my duty when ill at Ujiji in 1869, and am
+not to blame, though they grope a little in the dark at home.
+Some Arab letters have come, and I forward them to you.
+
+D. L.
+
+March 16, 1872.
+
+P.S.--I have written a note this morning to Mr. Murray,
+50, Albemarle Street, the publisher, to help you, if necessary,
+in sending the Journal by book post, or otherwise, to Agnes.
+If you call on him you will find him a frank gentleman.  A pleasant
+journey to you.
+
+
+David Livingstone.
+
+To Henry M. Stanley, Esq.,
+Wherever he may be found.
+
+
+Several Wangwana arrived at Tura to join our returning Expedition,
+as they were afraid to pass through Ugogo by themselves; others
+were reported coming; but as all were sufficiently warned at
+Unyanyembe that the departure of the caravan would take place
+positively on the 14th, I was not disposed to wait longer.
+
+As we were leaving Tura, on the 21st, Susi and Hamoydah were sent
+back to the Doctor, with last words from me, while we continued our
+march to Nghwhalah River.
+
+Two days afterwards we arrived before the village of Ngaraisa,
+into which the head of the caravan attempted to enter but the
+angry Wakimbu forcibly ejected them.
+
+On the 24th, we encamped in the jungle, in what is called the
+"tongoni," or clearing.
+
+This region was at one period in a most flourishing state; the
+soil is exceedingly fertile; the timber is large, and would be
+valuable near the coast; and, what is highly appreciated in
+Africa, there is an abundance of water.  We camped near a smooth,
+broad hump of syenite, at one end of which rose, upright and grand,
+a massive square rock, which towered above several small trees in
+the vicinity; at the other end stood up another singular rock,
+which was loosened at the base.
+
+The members of the Expedition made use of the great sheet of rock
+to grind their grain; a common proceeding in these lands where
+villages are not near, or when the people are hostile.
+
+On the 27th of March we entered Kiwyeh.  At dawn, when leaving
+Mdaburu River, the solemn warning had been given that we were
+about entering Ugogo; and as we left Kaniyaga village, with
+trumpet-like blasts of the guide's horn, we filed into the depths
+of an expanse of rustling Indian corn.  The ears were ripe enough
+for parching and roasting, and thus was one anxiety dispelled
+by its appearance; for generally, in early March, caravans
+suffer from famine, which overtakes both natives and strangers.
+
+We soon entered the gum-tree districts, and we knew we were in
+Ugogo.  The forests of this country are chiefly composed of the
+gum and thorn species--mimosa and tamarisk, with often a variety
+of wild fruit trees.  The grapes were plentiful, though they were
+not quite ripe; and there was also a round, reddish fruit with the
+sweetness of the Sultana grape, with leaves like a gooseberry-bush.
+There was another about the size of an apricot, which was
+excessively bitter.
+
+Emerging from the entangled thorn jungle, the extensive settlements
+of Kiwyeh came into view; and to the east of the chief's village
+we found a camping place under the shade of a group of colossal
+baobab.
+
+We had barely encamped when we heard the booming, bellowing war
+horns sounding everywhere, and we espied messengers darting swiftly
+in every direction giving the alarm of war.  When first informed
+that the horns were calling the people to arm themselves, and
+prepare for war, I half suspected that an attack was about to be
+made on the Expedition; but the words "Urugu, warugu" (thief!
+thieves!)--bandied about, declared the cause.  Mukondoku, the chief
+of the populous district two days to the north-east, where we
+experienced some excitement when westward-bound, was marching to
+attack the young Mtemi, Kiwyeh, and Kiwyeh's soldiers were called
+to the fight.  The men rushed to their villages, and in a short
+time we saw them arrayed in full fighting costume.  Feathers of the
+ostrich and the eagle waved over their fronts, or the mane of the
+zebra surrounded their heads; their knees and ankles were hung
+with little bells; joho robes floated behind, from their necks;
+spears, assegais, knob-sticks, and bows were flourished over their
+heads, or held in their right hands, as if ready for hurling.  On
+each flank of a large body which issued from the principal village,
+and which came at a uniform swinging double-quick, the ankle and
+knee bells all chiming in admirable unison, were a cloud of
+skirmishers, consisting of the most enthusiastic, who exercised
+themselves in mimic war as they sped along.  Column after column,
+companies, and groups from every village hurried on past our camp
+until, probably, there were nearly a thousand soldiers gone to the
+war.  This scene gave me a better idea than anything else of the
+weakness of even the largest caravans which travelled between
+Zanzibar and Unyanyembe.
+
+At night the warriors returned from the forest; the alarm proved
+to be without foundation.  At first it was generally reported that
+the invaders were Wahehe, or the Wadirigo, as that tribe are
+scornfully called from their thieving propensities.  The Wahehe
+frequently make a foray upon the fat cattle of Ugogo.  They travel
+from their own country in the south-east, and advance through the
+jungle, and when about to approach the herds, stoop down, covering
+their bodies with their shields of bull-hide.  Having arrived
+between the cattle and the herdsmen, they suddenly rise up and
+begin to switch the cattle heartily, and, having started them off
+into the jungle in the care of men already detailed for the work,
+they turn about, and plant their shields before them, to fight
+the aroused shepherds.
+
+On the 30th we arrived at Khonze, which is remarkable for the
+mighty globes of foliage which the giant sycamores and baobabs put
+forth above the plain.  The chief of Khonze boasts of four tembes,
+out of which he could muster in the aggregate fifty armed men;
+yet this fellow, instigated by the Wanyamwezi residents, prepared
+to resist our advance, because I only sent him three doti--twelve
+yards of cloth--as honga.
+
+We were halted, waiting the return of a few friendly Wagogo
+travellers who had joined us, and who were asked to assist Bombay
+in the negotiation of the tribute, when the Wagogo returned to us
+at breathless speed, and shouted out to me, "Why do you halt here?
+Do you wish to die?  These pagans will not take the tribute, but
+they boast that they will eat up all your cloth."
+
+The renegade Wanyamwezi who had married into Wagogo families were
+always our bane in this country.  As the chief of Khonze came up
+I ordered the men to load their guns, and I loaded my own
+ostentatiously in his presence, and then strode up to him, and
+asked if he had come to take the cloth by force, or if he were
+going to accept quietly what I would give him.  As the Mnyamwezi
+who caused this show of hostilities was beginning to speak, I
+caught him by the throat, and threatened to make his nose flatter
+if he attempted to speak again in my presence, and to shoot him
+first, if we should be forced to fight.  The rascal was then pushed
+away into the rear.  The chief, who was highly amused with this
+proceeding, laughed loudly at the discomfiture of the parasite,
+and in a short time he and I had settled the tribute to our mutual
+satisfaction, and we parted great friends.  The Expedition arrived
+at Sanza that night.
+
+On the 31st we came to Kanyenyi, to the great Mtemi--Magomba's--
+whose son and heir is Mtundu M'gondeh.  As we passed by the tembe
+of the great Sultan, the msagira, or chief counsellor, a pleasant
+grey-haired man, was at work making a thorn fence around a patch
+of young corn.  He greeted the caravan with a sonorous "Yambo,"
+and, putting himself at its head, he led the way to our camp.
+When introduced to me he was very cordial in his manner.
+He was offered a kiti-stool and began to talk very affably.
+He remembered my predecessors, Burton, Speke, and Grant, very well;
+declared me to be much younger than any of them; and, recollecting
+that one of the white men used to drink asses' milk (Burton?),
+offered to procure me some.  The way I drank it seemed to give
+him very great satisfaction.
+
+His son, Unamapokera, was a tall man of thirty or thereabouts,
+and he conceived a great friendship for me, and promised that the
+tribute should be very light, and that he would send a man to show
+me the way to Myumi, which was a village on the frontier of Kanyenyi,
+by which I would be enabled to avoid the rapacious Kisewah, who was
+in the habit of enforcing large tribute from caravans.
+
+With the aid of Unamapokera and his father, we contrived to be
+mulcted very lightly, for we only paid ten doti, while Burton was
+compelled to pay sixty doti or two hundred and forty yards of cloth.
+
+On the 1st of April, rising early, we reached Myumi after a four
+hours' march; then plunged into the jungle, and, about 2 P.M.
+arrived at a large ziwa, or pond, situate in the middle of a
+jungle; and on the next day, at 10 A.M., reached the fields of
+Mapanga.  We were passing the village of Mapanga to a resting-place
+beyond the village, where we might breakfast and settle the honga,
+when a lad rushed forward to meet us, and asked us where we were
+going.  Having received a reply that we were going to a
+camping-place, he hastened on ahead, and presently we heard him
+talking to some men in a field on our right.
+
+In the meantime, we had found a comfortable shady place, and had
+come to a halt; the men were reclining on the ground, or standing
+up near their respective loads; Bombay was about opening a bale,
+when we heard a great rush of men, and loud shouts, and,
+immediately after, out rushed from the jungle near by a body of
+forty or fifty armed men, who held their spears above their
+heads, or were about to draw their bows, with a chief at their
+head, all uttering such howls of rage as only savages can, which
+sounded like a long-drawn "Hhaat-uh--Hhaat-uhh-uhh," which meant,
+unmistakably, "You will, will you?  No, you will not!"--at once
+determined, defiant, and menacing.
+
+I had suspected that the voices I heard boded no good to us,
+and I had accordingly prepared my weapons and cartridges.  Verily,
+what a fine chance for adventure this was!  One spear flung at us,
+or one shot fired into this minatory mob of savages, and the
+opposing' bands had been plunged into a fatal conflict!  There
+would have been no order of battle, no pomp of war, but a murderous
+strife, a quick firing of breech-loaders, and volleys from
+flint-lock muskets, mixed with the flying of spears and twanging
+of bows, the cowardly running away at once, pursued by yelping
+savages; and who knows how it all would have terminated?  Forty
+spears against forty guns--but how many guns would not have
+decamped?  Perhaps all, and I should have been left with my
+boy gunbearers to have my jugular deliberately severed, or
+to be decapitated, leaving my head to adorn a tall pole in
+the centre of a Kigogo village, like poor Monsieur Maizan's
+at Dege la Mhora, in Uzaramo.  Happy end of an Expedition!
+And the Doctor's Journal lost for ever--the fruits of six
+years' labor!
+
+But in this land it will not do to fight unless driven to the very
+last extremity.  No belligerent Mungo Park can be successful in
+Ugogo unless he has a sufficient force of men with him.  With five
+hundred Europeans one could traverse Africa from north to south,
+by tact, and the moral effect that such a force would inspire.
+Very little fighting would be required.
+
+Without rising from the bale on which I was seated, I requested the
+kirangozi to demand an explanation of their furious hubbub and
+threatening aspect; if they were come to rob us.
+
+"No," said the chief; "we do not want to stop the road, or to
+rob you; but we want the tribute."
+
+"But don't you see us halted, and the bale opened to send it to
+you?  We have come so far from your village that after the tribute
+is settled we can proceed on our way, as the day is yet young."
+
+The chief burst into a loud laugh, and was joined by ourselves.
+He evidently felt ashamed of his conduct for he voluntarily offered
+the explanation, that as he and his men were cutting wood to make
+a new fence for his village, a lad came up to him, and said that
+a caravan of Wangwana were about passing through the country
+without stopping to explain who they were.  We were soon very
+good friends.  He begged of me to make rain for him, as his crops
+were suffering, and no rain had fallen for months.  I told him that
+though white people were very great and clever people, much
+superior to the Arabs, yet we could not make rain.  Though very
+much disappointed, he did not doubt my statement, and after
+receiving his honga, which was very light, he permitted us to go
+on our way, and even accompanied us some distance to show us the
+road.
+
+At 3 P.M. we entered a thorny jungle; and by 5 P.M. we had
+arrived at Muhalata, a district lorded over by the chief Nyamzaga.
+A Mgogo, of whom I made a friend, proved very staunch.  He belonged
+to Mulowa, a country to the S.S.E., and south of Kulabi; and was
+active in promoting my interests by settling the tribute, with
+the assistance of Bombay, for me.  When, on the next day, we passed
+through Kulabi on our way to Mvumi, and the Wagogo were about to
+stop us for the honga, he took upon himself the task of relieving
+us from further toll, by stating we were from Ugogo or Kanyenyi.
+The chief simply nodded his head, and we passed on.  It seems that
+the Wagogo do not exact blackmail of those caravans who intend only
+to trade in their own country, or have no intention of passing
+beyond their own frontier.
+
+Leaving Kulabi, we traversed a naked, red, loamy plain, over which
+the wind from the heights of Usagara, now rising a bluish-black
+jumble of mountains in our front, howled most fearfully.  With
+clear, keen, incisive force, the terrible blasts seemed to
+penetrate through an through our bodies, as though we were but
+filmy gauze.  Manfully battling against this mighty "peppo "--
+storm--we passed through Mukamwa's, and crossing a broad sandy
+bed of a stream, we entered the territory of Mvumi, the last
+tribute-levying chief of Ugogo.
+
+The 4th of April, after sending Bombay and my friendly Mgogo
+with eight doti, or thirty-two yards of cloth, as a farewell
+tribute to the Sultan, we struck off through the jungle, and in
+five hours we were on the borders of the wilderness of "Marenga
+Mkali"--the "hard," bitter or brackish, water.
+
+From our camp I despatched three men to Zanzibar with letters to
+the American Consul, and telegraphic despatches for the `Herald,'
+with a request to the Consul that he would send the men back with
+a small case or two containing such luxuries as hungry, worn-out,
+and mildewed men would appreciate.  The three messengers were
+charged not to halt for anything--rain or no rain, river or
+inundation--as if they did not hurry up we should catch them
+before they reached the coast.  With a fervent "Inshallah, bana,"
+they departed.
+
+On the 5th, with a loud, vigorous, cheery "Hurrah!" we plunged
+into the depths of the wilderness, which, with its eternal silence
+and solitude, was far preferable to the jarring, inharmonious
+discord of the villages of the Wagogo.  For nine hours we held on
+our way, starting with noisy shouts the fierce rhinoceros, the
+timid quagga, and the herds of antelopes which crowd the jungles
+of this broad salina.  On the 7th, amid a pelting rain, we entered
+Mpwapwa, where my Scotch assistant, Farquhar, died.  We had
+performed the extraordinary march of 338 English statute miles
+from the 14th of March to the 7th of April, or within twenty-four
+days, inclusive of halts, which was a little over fourteen miles
+a day.
+
+Leukole, the chief of Mpwapwa, with whom I left Farquhar, gave the
+following account of the death of the latter:--
+
+"The white man seemed to be improving after you left him, until
+the, fifth day, when, while attempting to rise and walk out of his
+tent, he fell back; from that minute he got worse and worse, and
+in the afternoon he died, like one going to sleep.  His legs and
+abdomen had swollen considerably, and something, I think, broke
+within him when he fell, for he cried out like a man who was very
+much hurt, and his servant said, `The master says he is dying.'
+
+"We had him carried out under a large tree, and after covering him
+with leaves, there left him.  His servant took possession of his
+things, his rifle, clothes, and blanket, and moved off to the tembe
+of a Mnyamwezi, near Kisokweh, where he lived for three months,
+when he also died.  Before he died he sold his master's rifle to an
+Arab going to Unyanyembe for ten doti (forty yards of cloth).
+That is all I know about it."
+
+He subsequently showed me the hollow into which the dead body
+of Farquhar was thrown, but I could not find a vestige of his
+bones, though we looked sharply about that we might make a decent
+grave for them.  Before we left Unyanyembe fifty men were
+employed two days carrying rocks, with which I built up a solid
+enduring pile around Shaw's grave eight feet long and five feet
+broad, which Dr. Livingstone said would last hundreds of years,
+as the grave of the first white man who died in Unyamwezi.
+But though we could not discover any remains of the unfortunate
+Farquhar, we collected a large quantity of stones, and managed
+to raise a mound near the banks of the stream to commemorate
+the spot where his body was laid.
+
+It was not until we had entered the valley of the Mukondokwa River
+that we experienced anything like privation or hardship from the
+Masika.  Here the torrents thundered and roared; the river was a
+mighty brown flood, sweeping downward with, an almost resistless
+flow.  The banks were brimful, and broad nullahs were full of
+water, and the fields were inundated, and still the rain came
+surging down in a shower, that warned us of what we might expect
+during our transit of the sea-coast region.  Still we urged our
+steps onward like men to whom every moment was precious--as if a
+deluge was overtaking us.  Three times we crossed this awful flood
+at the fords by means of ropes tied to trees from bank to bank,
+and arrived at Kadetamare on the 11th, a most miserable, most
+woe-begone set of human beings; and camped on a hill opposite
+Mount Kibwe, which rose on the right of the river--one of the
+tallest peaks of the range.
+
+On the 12th of April, after six hours of the weariest march I had
+ever undergone, we arrived at the mouth of the Mukondokwa Pass,
+out of which the river debouches into the Plain of Makata.  We knew
+that it was an unusual season, for the condition of the country,
+though bad enough the year before, was as nothing compared to this
+year.  Close to the edge of the foaming, angry flood lay our route,
+dipping down frequently into deep ditches, wherein we found
+ourselves sometimes up to the waist in water, and sometimes up
+to the throat.  Urgent necessity impelled us onward, lest we might
+have to camp at one of these villages until the end of the monsoon
+rains; so we kept on, over marshy bottoms, up to the knees in mire,
+under jungly tunnels dripping with wet, then into sloughs arm-pit
+deep.  Every channel seemed filled to overflowing, yet down the
+rain poured, beating the surface of the river into yellowish foam,
+pelting us until we were almost breathless.  Half a day's battling
+against such difficulties brought us, after crossing the river,
+once again to the dismal village of Mvumi.
+
+We passed the night fighting swarms of black and voracious
+mosquitoes, and in heroic endeavours to win repose in sleep,
+in which we were partly successful, owing to the utter weariness
+of our bodies.
+
+On the 13th we struck out of the village of Mvumi.  It had rained
+the whole night, and the morning brought no cessation.  Mile after
+mile we traversed, over fields covered by the inundation, until we
+came to a branch river-side once again, where the river was narrow,
+and too deep to ford in the middle.  We proceeded to cut a tree
+down, and so contrived that it should fall right across the stream.
+Over this fallen tree the men, bestriding it, cautiously moved
+before them their bales and boxes; but one young fellow,
+Rojab--through over-zeal, or in sheer madness--took up the Doctor's
+box which contained his letters and Journal of his discoveries on
+his head, and started into the river.  I had been the first to
+arrive on the opposite bank, in order to superintend the crossing;
+when I caught sight of this man walking in the river with the most
+precious box of all on his head.  Suddenly he fell into a deep
+hole, and the man and box went almost out of sight, while I was in
+an agony at the fate which threatened the despatches.  Fortunately,
+he recovered himself and stood up, while I shouted to him, with
+a loaded revolver pointed at his head, "Look out!  Drop that bog,
+and I'll shoot you."
+
+All the men halted in their work while they gazed at their
+comrade who was thus imperilled by bullet and flood.  The man
+himself seemed to regard the pistol with the greatest awe, and
+after a few desperate efforts succeeded in getting the box safely
+ashore.  As the articles within were not damaged, Rojab escaped
+punishment, with a caution not to touch the bog again on any
+account, and it was transferred to the keeping of the sure-footed
+and perfect pagazi, Maganga.
+
+From this stream, in about an hour, we came to the main river,
+but one look at its wild waters was enough.  We worked hard to
+construct a raft, but after cutting down four trees and lashing
+the green logs together, and pushing them into the whirling
+current, we saw them sink like lead.  We then tied together all
+the strong rope in our possession, and made a line 180 feet long,
+with one end of which tied round his body, Chowpereh was sent across
+to lash it to a tree.  He was carried far down the stream; but
+being an excellent swimmer, he succeeded in his attempt.  The bales
+were lashed around the middle, and, heaved into the stream, were
+dragged through the river to the opposite bank, as well as the
+tent, and such things as could not be injured much by the water.
+Several of the men, as well as myself, were also dragged through
+the water; each of the boys being attended by the best swimmers;
+but when we came to the letter-boxes and valuables, we could suggest
+no means to take them over.  Two camps were accordingly made, one
+on each side of the stream; the one on the bank which I had just
+left occupying an ant-hill of considerable height; while my party
+had to content itself with a flat, miry marsh.  An embankment of
+soil, nearly a foot high, was thrown up in a circle thirty feet
+in diameter, in the centre of which my tent was pitched, and
+around it booths were erected.
+
+It was an extraordinary and novel position that we found ourselves
+in.  Within twenty feet of our camp was a rising river, with flat,
+low banks; above us was a gloomy, weeping sky; surrounding us on
+three sides was an immense forest, on whose branches we heard the
+constant, pattering rain; beneath our feet was a great depth of mud,
+black and loathsome; add to these the thought that the river might
+overflow, and sweep us to utter destruction.
+
+In the morning the river was still rising, and an inevitable doom
+seemed to hang over us.  There was yet time to act--to bring over
+the people, with the most valuable effects of the Expedition--as
+I considered Dr. Livingstone's Journal and letters, and my own
+papers, of far greater value than anything else.  While looking at
+the awful river an idea struck me that I might possibly carry the
+boxes across, one at a time, by cutting two slender poles, and
+tying cross sticks to them, making a kind of hand-barrow, on which
+a box might rest when lashed to it.  Two men swimming across, at
+the same time holding on to the rope, with the ends of the poles
+resting on the men's shoulders, I thought, would be enabled to
+convey over a 70 lb. box with ease.  In a short time one of these
+was made, and six couples of the strongest swimmers were prepared,
+and stimulated with a rousing glass of stiff grog each man, with
+a promise of cloth to each also if they succeeded in getting
+everything ashore undamaged by the water.  When I saw with what
+ease they dragged themselves across, the barrow on their
+shoulders, I wondered that I had not thought of the plan before.
+Within an hour of the first couple had gone over, the entire
+Expedition was safe on the eastern bank; and at once breaking
+camp, we marched north through the swampy forest, which in some
+places was covered with four feet of water.  Seven hours'
+constant splashing brought us to Rehenneko, after experiencing
+several queer accidents.  We were now on the verge only of the
+inundated plain of the Makata, which, even with the last year's
+rain, was too horrible to think of undertaking again in cold blood.
+
+We were encamped ten days on a hill near Rehenneko, or until the
+25th, when, the rain having entirely ceased, we resolved to
+attempt the crossing of the Makata.  The bales of cloth had all
+been distributed as presents to the men for their work, except a
+small quantity which I retained for the food of my own mess.
+
+But we should have waited a month longer, for the inundation had
+not abated four inches.  However, after we once struggled up to our
+necks in water it was use less to turn back.  For two marches of
+eight hours each we plunged through slush, mire, deep sloughs,
+water up to our necks, and muddy cataclysms, swam across nullahs,
+waded across gullies, and near sunset of the second day arrived on
+the banks of the Makata River.  My people are not likely to
+forget that night; not one of them was able to sleep until it was
+long past midnight, because of the clouds of mosquitoes, which
+threatened to eat us all up; and when the horn sounded for the
+march of another day, there was not one dissentient amongst them.
+
+It was 5 A.M. when we began the crossing of the Makata River, but
+beyond it for six miles stretched one long lake, the waters of
+which flowed gently towards the Wami.  This was the confluence of
+the streams: four rivers were here gathered into one.  The natives
+of Kigongo warned us not to attempt it, as the water was over our
+heads; but I had only to give a hint to the men, and we set on our
+way.  Even the water--we were getting quite amphibious--was better
+than the horrible filth and piles of decaying vegetation which
+were swept against the boma of the village.
+
+We were soon up to our armpits, then the water shallowed to the
+knee, then we stepped up to the neck, and waded on tiptoe,
+supporting the children above the water; and the same experiences
+occurred as those which we suffered the day before, until we were
+halted on the edge of the Little Makata, which raced along at the
+rate of eight knots an hour; but it was only fifty yards wide,
+and beyond it rose a high bank, and dry park-lands which extended
+as far as Simbo.  We had no other option than to swim it; but it
+was a slow operation, the current was so swift and strong.
+Activity and zeal, high rewards, presents of money, backed by the
+lively feeling that we were nearing home, worked wonders, and in
+a couple of hours we were beyond the Makata.
+
+Cheery and hopeful, we sped along the dry, smooth path that now
+lay before us, with the ardor and vivacity of heroes, and the
+ease and power of veterans, We rolled three ordinary marches
+into one that day, and long before night arrived at Simbo.
+
+On the 29th we crossed the Ungerengeri, and as we came to
+Simbamwenni-the "Lion City" of Useguhha--lo! what a change!
+The flooded river had swept the entire front wall of the
+strongly-walled city away, and about fifty houses had been
+destroyed by the torrent.  Villages of Waruguru, on the slopes
+of the Uruguru Mountains--Mkambaku range--had also suffered
+disastrously.  If one-fourth of the reports we heard were true,
+at least a hundred people must have perished.
+
+The Sultana had fled, and the stronghold of Kimbengo was no more!
+A deep canal that he had caused to be excavated when alive, to
+bring a branch of the Ungerengeri near his city--which was his glory
+and boast--proved the ruin of Simbamwenni.  After the destruction
+of the place the river had formed a new bed, about 300 yards from
+the city.  But what astonished us most were the masses of debris
+which seemed to be piled everywhere, and the great numbers of trees
+that were prostrate; and they all seemed to lie in the same direction,
+as if a strong wind had come from the south-west.  The aspect of
+the Ungerengeri valley was completely changed--from a Paradise
+it was converted into a howling waste.
+
+We continued our march until we reached Ulagalla, and it was
+evident, as we advanced, that an unusual storm had passed over
+the land, for the trees in some places seemed to lie in swathes.
+
+A most fatiguing and long march brought us to Mussoudi, on the
+eastern bank of the Ungerengeri; but long before we reached it we
+realized that a terrific destruction of human life and property
+had occurred.  The extent and nature of the calamity may be
+imagined, when I state that nearly ONE HUNDRED VILLAGES, according
+to Mussoudi's report, were swept away.
+
+Mussoudi, the Diwan, says that the inhabitants had gone to rest
+as usual--as they had done ever since he had settled in the valley,
+twenty-five years ago--when, in the middle of the night, they heard
+a roar like many thunders, which woke them up to the fact that
+death was at work in the shape of an enormous volume of water,
+that, like a wall, came down, tearing the tallest trees
+with it, carrying away scores of villages at one fell, sure swoop
+into utter destruction.  The scene six days after the event--when
+the river has subsided into its normal breadth and depth during
+the monsoons--is simply awful.  Wherever we look, we find something
+very suggestive of the devastation that has visited the country;
+fields of corn are covered with many feet of sand and debris; the
+sandy bed the river has deserted is about a mile wide; and there
+are but three villages standing of all that I noticed when en route
+to Unyanyembe.  When I asked Mussoudi where the people had gone to,
+he replied, "God has taken most of them, but some have gone to
+Udoe."  The surest blow ever struck at the tribe of the Wakami
+was indeed given by the hand of God; and, to use the words of
+the Diwan, "God's power is wonderful, and who can resist Him!"
+
+I again resort to my Diary, and extract the following:
+
+April 30th.--Passing Msuwa, we travelled hurriedly through the
+jungle which saw such hard work with us when going to Unyanyembe.
+What dreadful odors and indescribable loathing this jungle
+produces!  It is so dense that a tiger could not crawl through
+it; it is so impenetrable that an elephant could not force his
+way!  Were a bottleful of concentrated miasma, such as we inhale
+herein, collected, what a deadly poison, instantaneous in its
+action, undiscoverable in its properties, would it be!  I think
+it would act quicker than chloroform, be as fatal as prussic
+acid.
+
+Horrors upon horrors are in it.  Boas above our heads,
+snakes and scorpions under our feet.  Land-crabs, terrapins,
+and iguanas move about in our vicinity.  Malaria is in the air
+we breathe; the road is infested with "hotwater" ants, which
+bite our legs until we dance and squirm about like madmen.
+Yet, somehow, we are fortunate enough to escape annihilation,
+and many another traveller might also.  Yet here, in verity,
+are the ten plagues of Egypt, through which a traveller in
+these regions must run the gauntlet:
+
+1.  Plague of boas.            |   7.  Suffocation from the
+2.  Red ants, or "hot-water."  |       density of the jungle.
+3   Scorpions.                 |   8.  Stench.
+4.  Thorns and spear cacti.    |   9.  Thorns in the road.
+5.  Numerous impediments.      |  10.  Miasma.
+6   Black mud knee-deep.       |
+
+May 1st. Kingaru Hera.--We heard news of a great storm having
+raged at Zanzibar, which has destroyed every house and every
+ship,--so the story runs;--and the same destruction has visited
+Bagamoyo and Whinde, they say.  But I am by this time pretty
+well acquainted with the exaggerative tendency of the African.
+It is possible that serious loss has been sustained, from the
+evidences of the effects of the storm in the interior.  I hear,
+also, that there are white men at Bagamoyo, who are about starting
+into the country to look after me (?).  Who would look after me,
+I cannot imagine.  I think they must have some confused idea of
+my Expedition; though, how they came to know that I was looking
+for any man I cannot conceive, because I never told a soul until
+I reached Unyanyembe.
+
+May 2nd. Rosako.--I had barely arrived at the village before the
+three men I despatched from Mvumi, Ugogo, entered, bringing with
+them from the generous American Consul a few bottles of champagne,
+a few pots of jam, and two boxes of Boston crackers.  These were
+most welcome after my terrible experiences in the Makata Valley.
+Inside one of these boxes, carefully put up by the Consul,
+were four numbers of the 'Herald'; one of which contained my
+correspondence from Unyanyembe, wherein were some curious
+typographical errors, especially in figures and African names.
+I suppose my writing was wretched, owing to my weakness.  In
+another are several extracts from various newspapers, in which
+I learn that many editors regard the Expedition into Africa as
+a myth.  Alas! it has been a terrible, earnest fact with me;
+nothing but hard, conscientious work, privation, sickness,
+and almost death.  Eighteen men have paid the forfeit of their
+lives in the undertaking.  It certainly is not a myth--the death
+of my two white assistants; they, poor fellows, found their fate
+in the inhospitable regions of the interior.
+
+One of my letters received from Zanzibar by my messengers states
+that there is an expedition at Bagamoyo called the "Livingstone
+Search and Relief Expedition."  What will the leaders of it do now?
+Livingstone is found and relieved already.  Livingstone says he
+requires nothing more.  It is a misfortune that they did not start
+earlier; then they might with propriety proceed, and be welcomed.
+
+May 4th.---Arrived at Kingwere's Ferry, but we were unable to
+attract the attention of the canoe paddler.  Between our camp and
+Bagamoyo we have an inundated plain that is at least four miles
+broad.  The ferrying of our Expedition across this broad watery
+waste will occupy considerable time.
+
+May 5th.--Kingwere, the canoe proprietor, came about 11 A.M.
+from his village at Gongoni, beyond the watery plain.  By his
+movements I am fain to believe him to be a descendant of some
+dusky King Log, for I have never seen in all this land the
+attributes and peculiarities of that royal personage so
+faithfully illustrated as in Kingwere.  He brought two canoes
+with him, short, cranky things, in which only twelve of us
+could embark at a time.  It was 3 o'clock in the afternoon
+before we arrived at Gongoni village.
+
+May 6th.--After impressing Kingwere with the urgent necessity of
+quick action on his part, with a promise of an extra five-dollar
+gold piece, I had the satisfaction to behold the last man reach
+my camp at 3.30 p.m.
+
+An hour later, and we are en route, at a pace that I never saw
+equalled at any time by my caravan.  Every man's feelings are
+intensified, for there is an animated, nay, headlong, impetuosity
+about their movements that indicates but too well what is going on
+in their minds.  Surely, my own are a faithful index to their
+feelings; and I do not feel a whit too proud to acknowledge the
+great joy that possesses me.  I feel proud to think that I have
+been successful; but, honestly, I do not feel so elated at that
+as at the hope that to-morrow I shall sit before a table bounteous
+with the good things of this life.  How I will glory in the hams,
+and potatoes, and good bread!  What a deplorable state of mind,
+is it not?  Ah, my friend, wait till you are reduced to a
+skeleton by gaunt famine and coarse, loathsome food--until you
+have waded a Makata swamp, and marched 525 miles in thirty-five
+days through such weather as we have had--then you will think
+such pabula, food fit for gods!
+
+Happy are we that,--after completing our mission, after the hurry
+and worry of the march, after the anxiety and vexation suffered
+from fractious tribes, after tramping for the last fifteen days
+through mire and Stygian marsh,--we near Beulah's peace and rest!
+Can we do otherwise than express our happiness by firing away
+gunpowder until our horns are emptied--than shout our "hurrahs"
+until we are hoarse--than, with the hearty, soul-inspiring
+"Yambos," greet every mother's son fresh from the sea?  Not so,
+think the Wangwana soldiers; and I so sympathize with them that
+I permit them to act their maddest without censure.
+
+At sunset we enter the town of Bagamoyo.  "More pilgrims come to
+town," were the words heard in Beulah.  "The white man has come to
+town," were the words we heard in Bagamoyo.  And we shall cross the
+water tomorrow to Zanzibar, and shall enter the golden gate; we
+shall see nothing, smell nothing, taste nothing that is offensive
+to the stomach any more!
+
+The kirangozi blows his horn, and gives forth blasts potential as
+Astolpho's, as the natives and Arabs throng around us.  And that
+bright flag, whose stars have waved over the waters of the great
+lake in Central Africa, which promised relief to the harassed
+Livingstone when in distress at Ujiji, returns to the sea once
+again--torn, it is true, but not dishonoured--tattered, but not
+disgraced.
+
+As we reached the middle of the town, I saw on the steps of a
+large white house a white man, in flannels and helmet similar
+to that I wore.  I thought myself rather akin to white men in
+general, and I walked up to him.  He advanced towards me, and
+we shook hands--did everything but embrace.
+
+"Won't you walk in?" said he.
+
+"Thanks."
+
+"What will you have to drink--beer, stout, brandy?  Eh, by George!
+I congratulate you on your splendid success," said he, impetuously.
+
+I knew him immediately.  He was an Englishman.  He was Lieut.
+William Henn, R.N., chief of the Livingstone Search and Relief
+Expedition, about to be despatched by the Royal Geographical
+Society to find and relieve Livingstone.  The former chief,
+as the Expedition was at first organized, was Lieut. Llewellyn
+S. Dawson, who, as soon as he heard from my men that I had found
+Livingstone, had crossed over to Zanzibar, and, after consultation
+with Dr. John Kirk, had resigned.  He had now nothing further to
+do with it, the command having formally devolved on Lieut. Henn.
+A Mr. Charles New, also, missionary from Mombasah, had joined
+the expedition, but he had resigned too.  So now there were left
+but Lieut. Henn and Mr. Oswell Livingstone, second son of the
+Doctor.
+
+"Is Mr. Oswell Livingstone here?" I asked, with considerable
+surprise.
+
+"Yes; he will be here directly."
+
+"What are you going to do now?" I asked.
+
+"I don't think it worth my while to go now.  You have taken
+the wind out of our sails completely.  If you have relieved
+him, I don't see the use of my going.  Do you?"
+
+"Well, it depends.  You know your own orders best.  If you have
+come only to find and relieve him, I can tell you truly he is
+found and relieved, and that he wants nothing more than a few
+canned meats, and some other little things which I dare say you
+have not got.  I have his list in his own handwriting with me.
+But his son must go anyhow, and I can get men easily enough for
+him."
+
+"Well, if he is relieved, it is of no use my going."
+
+
+At this time in walked a slight, young, gentlemanly man, with
+light complexion, light hair, dark, lustrous eyes, who was
+introduced to me as Mr. Oswell Livingstone.  The introduction was
+hardly necessary, for in his features there was much of what were
+the specialities of his father.  There was an air of quiet
+resolution about him, and in the greeting which he gave me he
+exhibited rather a reticent character; but I attributed that to
+a receptive nature, which augured well for the future.
+
+"I was telling Lieut. Henn that, whether he goes or not, you must
+go to your father, Mr. Livingstone."
+
+"Oh, I mean to go."
+
+"Yes, that's right.  I will furnish you with men and what stores
+your father needs.  My men will take you to Unyanyembe without
+any difficulty.  They know the road well, and that is a great
+advantage.  They know how to deal with the negro chiefs, and you
+will have no need to trouble your head about them, but march.
+The great thing that is required is speed.  Your father will be
+waiting for the things."
+
+"I will march them fast enough, if that is all."
+
+"Oh, they will be going up light, and they can easily make long
+marches."
+
+It was settled, then.  Henn made up his mind that, as the Doctor
+had been relieved, he was not wanted; but, before formally
+resigning, he intended to consult with Dr. Kirk, and for that
+purpose he would cross over to Zanzibar the next day with the
+`Herald' Expedition.
+
+At 2 A.M. I retired to sleep on a comfortable bed.  There was a
+great smell of newness about certain articles in the bedroom, such
+as haversacks, knapsacks, portmanteaus, leather gun-cases, &c.
+Evidently the new Expedition had some crudities about it; but a
+journey into the interior would soon have lessened the stock of
+superfluities, which all new men at first load themselves with.
+
+Ah! what a sigh of relief was that I gave, as I threw myself
+on my bed, at the thought that, "Thank God! my marching was
+ended."
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.  VALEDICTORY.
+
+At 5 P.M., on the 7th of May, 1872, the dhow which conveyed my
+Expedition back to Zanzibar arrived in the harbor, and the men,
+delighted to find themselves once more so near their homes, fired
+volley after volley, the American flag was hoisted up, and we soon
+saw the house-roofs and wharves lined with spectators, many of whom
+were Europeans, with glasses levelled at us.
+
+We drew ashore slowly; but a boat putting off to take us to land,
+we stepped into it, and I was soon in presence of my friend
+the Consul, who heartily welcomed me back to Zanzibar; and soon
+after was introduced to the Rev. Charles New, who was but a day
+or two previous to my arrival an important member of the English
+Search Expedition--a small, slight man in appearance, who, though
+he looked weakly, had a fund of energy or nervousness in him which
+was almost too great for such a body.  He also heartily congratulated
+me.
+
+After a bounteous dinner, to which I did justice in a manner that
+astonished my new friends, Lieut. Dawson called to see me, and
+said:
+
+"Mr. Stanley, let me congratulate you, sir."
+
+Lieut. Dawson then went on to state how he envied me my success;
+how I had "taken the wind out of his sails" (a nautical phrase
+similar to that used by Lieut. Henn); how, when he heard from my
+men that Dr. Livingstone had been found, he at once crossed over
+from Bagamoyo to Zanzibar, and, after a short talk with Dr. Kirk,
+at once resigned.
+
+"But do you not think, Mr. Dawson, you have been rather too hasty
+in tendering your resignation, from the more verbal report of my
+men?"
+
+"Perhaps," said he; "but I heard that Mr. Webb had received a
+letter from you, and that you and Livingstone had discovered that
+the Rusizi ran into the lake--that you had the Doctor's letters
+and despatches with you."
+
+"Yes; but you acquired all this information from my men; you
+have seen nothing yourself.  You have therefore resigned before
+you had personal evidence of the fact."
+
+"Well, Dr. Livingstone is relieved and found, as Mr. Henn tells
+me, is he not?"
+
+"Yes, that is true enough.  He is well supplied; he only requires
+a few little luxuries, which I am going to send him by an
+expedition of fifty freemen.  Dr. Livingstone is found and
+relieved, most certainly; and I have all the letters and
+despatches which he could possibly send to his friends."
+
+"But don't you think I did perfectly right?"
+
+"Hardly--though, perhaps, it would come to the same thing in
+the end.  Any more cloth and beads than he has already would
+be an incumbrance.  Still, you have your orders from the Royal
+Geographical Society.  I have not seen those yet, and I am not
+prepared to judge what your best course would have been.  But
+I think you did wrong in resigning before you saw me; for then
+you would have had, probably, a legitimate excuse for resigning.
+I should have held on to the Expedition until I had consulted
+with those who sent me; though, in such an event as this, the
+order would be, perhaps, to `Come home.'"
+
+"As it has turned out, though, don't you think I did right?"
+
+"Most certainly it would be useless for you to go to search for
+and relieve Livingstone now, because he has already been sought,
+found, and relieved; but perhaps you had other orders."
+
+"Only, if I went into the country, I was then to direct my
+attention to exploration; but the primary object having been
+forestalled by you, I am compelled to return home.  The Admiralty
+granted me leave of absence only for the search, and never said
+anything about exploration."
+
+That evening I despatched a boy over to the English Consulate
+with letters from the great traveller for Dr. Kirk and Mr. Oswell
+Livingstone.
+
+I was greeted warmly by the American and German residents,
+who could not have shown warmer feeling than if Dr. Livingstone had
+been a near and dear relation of their own.  Capt. H. A. Fraser
+and Dr. James Christie were also loud in their praises.  It seems
+that both of these gentlemen had attempted to despatch a private
+expedition to the relief of their countryman, but through some
+means it had failed.  They had contributed the sum of $500 to
+effect this laudable object; but the man to whom they had
+entrusted its command had been engaged by another for a different
+purpose, at a higher sum.  But, instead of feeling annoyed that
+I had performed what they had intended to do, they were among my
+most enthusiastic admirers.
+
+The next day I received a call from Dr. Kirk, who warmly
+congratulated me upon my success.  Bishop Tozer also came,
+and thanked me for tie service I had rendered to Dr. Livingstone.
+
+On this day I also discharged my men, and re-engaged twenty of
+them to return to the "Great Master."  Bombay, though in the
+interior he had scorned the idea of money rewards, and though he
+had systematically, in my greatest need, endeavoured to baffle me
+in every way, received, besides his pay, a present of $50, and
+each man, according to his merits, from $20 to $50.  For this was
+a day to bury all animosities, and condone all offences.  They,
+poor people, had only acted according to their nature, and I
+remembered that from Ujiji to the coast they had all behaved
+admirably.
+
+I saw I was terribly emaciated and changed when I presented myself
+before a full-length mirror.  All confirmed my opinion that I was
+much older in my appearance, and that my hair had become grey.
+Capt. Fraser had said, when I hailed him, "You have the advantage
+of me, sir!" and until I mentioned my name he did not know me.
+Even then he jocosely remarked that he believed that it was
+another Tichborne affair.  I was so different that identity was
+almost lost, even during the short period of thirteen
+months; that is, from March 23rd, 1871, to May  7th, 1872.
+
+Lieut. Henn the morning after my arrival formally resigned, and
+the Expedition was from this time in the hands of Mr. Oswell
+Livingstone, who made up his mind to sell the stores, retaining
+such as would be useful to his father.
+
+After disbanding my Expedition, I set about preparing another,
+according to Dr. Livingstone's request.  What the English
+Expedition lacked I purchased out of the money advanced by Mr.
+Oswell Livingstone.  The guns, fifty in number, were also
+furnished out of the stores of the English Expedition by him;
+and so were the ammunition, the honga cloth, for the tribute
+to the Wagogo, and the cloth for provisioning the force.
+Mr. Livingstone worked hard in the interests of his father
+and assisted me to the utmost of his ability.  He delivered
+over to me, to be packed up, `Nautical Almanacs' for 1872, 1873,
+1874; also a chronometer, which formerly belonged to Dr.
+Livingstone.  All these things, besides a journal, envelopes,
+note-books, writing-paper, medicines, canned fruits and fish,
+a little wine, some tea, cutlery and table ware, newspapers,
+and private letters and despatches, were packed up in air-tight
+tin boxes, as well as 100 lbs. of fine American flour, and some
+boxes of soda biscuits.
+
+Until the 19th of May it was understood that Mr. Oswell
+Livingstone would take charge of the caravan to his father;
+but about this date he changed his mind, and surprised me with
+a note stating he had decided not to go to Unyanyembe, for
+reasons he thought just and sufficient.
+
+Under these circumstances, my duty was to follow out the
+instructions of Dr. Livingstone, in procuring a good and
+efficient leader to take charge of the caravan as far as
+Unyanyembe.
+
+In a few hours I succeeded in obtaining an Arab highly recommended
+from Sheikh Hashid, whom I engaged at an advance of $100.  The
+young Arab, though not remarkably bright, seemed honest and able,
+but I left his further employment after reaching Unyanyembe to Dr.
+Livingstone, who would be able to decide then whether he was quite
+trustworthy.
+
+The next day I collected the men of the new Livingstone Expedition
+together, and as it was dangerous to allow them to wander about the
+city, I locked them up in a courtyard, and fed them there, until
+every soul, fifty seven in number, answered to their names.
+
+In the meantime, through the American Consul's assistance, I
+obtained the services of Johari, the chief dragoman of the
+American Consulate, who was charged with the conduct of the party
+across the inundated plain of the Kingani, and who was enjoined on
+no account to return until the Expedition had started on its march
+from the western bank of the Kingani River.  Mr. Oswell Livingstone
+generously paid him a douceur for the promise of doing
+his work thoroughly.
+
+A dhow having been brought to anchor before the American Consulate,
+I then addressed my old companions, saying, "You are now about to
+return to Unyanyembe, to the `Great Master'.  You know him; you
+know he is a good man, and has a kind heart.  He is different from
+me; he will not beat you, as I have done.  But you know I have
+rewarded you all--how I have made you all rich in cloth and money.
+You know how, when you behaved yourselves well, I was your friend.
+I gave you plenty to eat and plenty to wear.  When you were sick
+I looked after you.  If I was so good to you, the `Great Master'
+will be much more so.  He has a pleasant voice, and speaks kind.
+When did you ever see him lift his hand against an offender?
+When you were wicked, he did not speak to you in anger--he spoke
+to you in tones of sorrow.  Now, will you promise me that you
+will follow him--do what he tells you, obey him in all things,
+and not desert him?"
+
+"We will, we will, my master!" they all cried, fervently.
+
+"Then there is one thing more.  I want to shake hands with you
+all before you go--and we part for ever;" and they all rushed
+up at once, and a vigorous shake was interchanged with each man.
+
+"Now, let every man take up his load!"
+
+In a short time I marched them out into the street, and to the
+beach; saw them all on board, and the canvas hoisted, and the
+dhow speeding westward on her way to Bagamoyo.
+
+I felt strange and lonely, somehow.  My dark friends, who had
+travelled over so many hundreds of miles, and shared so many
+dangers with me, were gone, and I--was left behind.  How many
+of their friendly faces shall I see again?
+
+On the 29th, the steamer `Africa,' belonging to the German
+Consulate, was chartered by a party of five of us, and we
+departed from Zanzibar to Seychelles, with the good wishes
+of almost all the European residents on the island.
+
+We arrived at Seychelles on the 9th of June, about twelve hours
+after the French mail had departed for Aden.  As there is only
+monthly communication between Mahe (Seychelles) and Aden, we
+were compelled to remain on the island of Mahe one month.
+
+My life in Mahe is among the most agreeable things connected with
+my return from Africa.  I found my companions estimable gentlemen,
+and true Christians.  Mr. Livingstone exhibited many amiable traits
+of character, and proved himself to be a studious, thoughtful,
+earnest man.  When at last the French steamer came from Mauritius,
+there was not one of our party who did not regret leaving the
+beautiful island, and the hospitable British officers who were
+stationed there.  The Civil Commissioner, Mr. Hales Franklyn,
+and Dr. Brooks, did their utmost to welcome the wanderer, and
+I take this opportunity to acknowledge the many civilities
+I personally received from them.
+
+At Aden, the passengers from the south were transferred on board
+the French mail steamer, the `Mei-kong,' en route from China to
+Marseilles.  At the latter port I was received with open arms by
+Dr. Hosmer and the representative of the `Daily Telegraph,' and
+was then told how men regarded the results of the Expedition;
+but it was not until I arrived in England that I realised it.
+
+Mr. Bennett, who originated and sustained the enterprise, now
+crowned it by one of the most generous acts that could be
+conceived.  I had promised Dr. Livingstone, that twenty-four hours
+after I saw his letters to Mr. Bennett published in the London
+journals, I would post his letters to his family and friends in
+England.  In order to permit me to keep my plighted word, and in
+order that there might be no delay in the delivery of his family
+letters, Mr. Bennett's agent telegraphed to New York the 'Herald'
+letters I had received from Dr. Livingstone at an expense of
+nearly £2,000.
+
+And now, dear reader, the time has come for you and I to part.
+Let us hope that it is not final.  A traveller finds himself
+compelled to repeat the regretful parting word often.  During
+the career recorded in the foregoing book, I have bidden many
+farewells; to the Wagogo, with their fierce effrontery; to Mionvu,
+whose blackmailing once so affected me; to the Wavinza, whose noisy
+clatter promised to provoke dire hostilities; to the inhospitable
+Warundi; to the Arab slave-traders and half-castes; to all
+fevers, remittent, and intermittent; to the sloughs and swamps
+of Makata; to the brackish waters and howling wastes; to my own
+dusky friends and followers, and to the hero-traveller and
+Christian gentleman, David Livingstone.  It is with kindliest
+wishes to all who have followed my footsteps on these pages that
+I repeat once more--Farewell.
+
+
+
+CONCLUDING CHAPTER.
+
+
+The following correspondence, and especially the last letter,
+which was accompanied by a beautiful and valuable gold snuff-box
+set with brilliants, will be treasured by me as among the
+pleasantest results of my undertaking.
+
+H. M. S.
+
+Foreign Office, August 1.
+
+Sir,
+I am directed by Earl Granville to acknowledge the receipt of a
+packet containing letters and despatches from Dr. Livingstone,
+which you were good enough to deliver to her Majesty's ambassador
+at Paris for transmission to this department; and I am to convey
+to you his Lordship's thanks for taking charge of these interesting
+documents.
+
+I am, Sir,
+
+Your most obedient humble servant,
+ENFIELD.
+
+Henry M. Stanley, Esq.,
+`New York Herald Bureau,'
+46, Fleet Street, London,
+
+------ooo----
+
+
+
+London, August 2.
+
+Henry M. Stanley, Esq., has handed to me to-day the diary of Dr.
+Livingstone, my father, sealed and signed by my father, with
+instructions written on the outside, signed by my father, for the
+care of which, and for all his actions concerning and to my
+father, our very best thanks are due.  We have not the slightest
+reason to doubt that this is my father's journal, and I certify
+that the letters he has brought home are my father's letters,
+and no others.
+
+Tom S. Livingstone
+
+------------oooo-------
+
+August 2, 1872.
+
+Sir,
+I was not aware until you mentioned it that there was any doubt as
+to the authenticity of Dr. Livingstone's despatches, which you
+delivered to Lord Lyons on the 31st of July.  But, in consequence
+of what you said I have inquired into the matter, and I find that
+Mr. Hammond, the Under-Secretary of the Foreign Office, and Mr.
+Wylde, the head of the Consular and Slave Trade Department, have
+not the slightest doubt as to the genuineness of the papers which
+have been received from Lord Lyons, and which are being printed.
+
+I cannot omit this opportunity, of expressing to you my admiration
+of the qualities which have enabled you to achieve the object of
+your mission, and to attain a result which has been hailed with so
+much enthusiasm both in the United States and in this country.
+
+I am, Sir,
+
+Your obedient,
+
+GRANVILLE.
+
+Henry Stanley, Esq.
+
+
+-------------oooo-------
+
+Foreign Office, August 27.
+
+SIR,
+
+I have great satisfaction in conveying to you, by command of the
+Queen, her Majesty's high appreciation of the prudence and zeal
+which you have displayed in opening a communication with Dr.
+Livingstone, and relieving her Majesty from the anxiety which,
+in common with her subjects, she had felt in regard to the fate
+of that distinguished traveller.
+
+The Queen desires me to express her thanks for the service you have
+thus rendered, together with her Majesty's congratulations on your
+having so successfully carried on the mission which you fearlessly
+undertook.  Her Majesty also desires me to request your acceptance
+of the memorial which accompanies this letter.
+
+I am, Sir,
+
+Your most obedient humble servant,
+
+GRANVILLE
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+GLOSSARY.
+
+Boma .  .  .  .  .  .  .   enclosure.
+
+Bubu .  .  .  .  .  .  .   black beads.
+
+Diwan   .  .  .  .  .  .   elder, chief, or magistrate.
+
+Doti    .  .  .  .  .  .   four yards of cloth.
+
+Dowa    .  .  .  .  .  .   medicine.
+
+Fundo  .  .  .  .  .  .    ten necklaces, or ten khetes.
+
+Ghulabio  .  .  .  .  .    a species of bead.
+
+Hafde     .  .  .  .  .    a species of bead.
+
+Hamal     .  .  .  .  .    carrier.
+
+Honga     .  .  .  .  .    tribute.
+
+Ismahili  .  .  .  .  .    a native name for a particular kind of cloth.
+
+Kadunguru .  .  .  .  .    a brick-coloured species of bead.
+
+Kaif-Halek   .  .  .  .    "How do you do?"
+
+Kaniki       .  .  .  .    a blue cloth manufactured in India.
+
+Knambi       .  .  .  .    camp.
+
+Khete       .  .   .  .    one necklace, or a tenth of a fundo.
+
+Kichuma-chuma  .   .  .    "Little Irons," a disease of the liver.
+
+Kirangozi   .  .  .  .      guide.
+
+Kitambi     .  .  .  .      a cloth.
+
+Kiti    .   .  .  .  .      stool.
+
+Lakhio   .  .  .  .  .      a pink-coloured species of bead.
+
+Lunghio  .  .  .  .  .      blue beads.
+
+Lunghio mbamba .  .  .      small blue beads.
+
+Lunghio rega   .  .  .      large blue beads.
+
+M        .  .  .  .  .      a prefix to denote a person of any
+                            country as M-jiji, a native of Jiji.
+
+Manyapara   .  .  .  .      elder, or sub-chief.
+
+Matama   .  .  .  .  .      Holcus sorghum, or the Arabic dourra.
+
+Mbembu   .  .  .  .  .      forest peach
+
+Merikani .  .  .  .  .      unbleached domestics manufactured in
+                            America.
+
+Mganga   .  .  .  .  .      a medicine man, or magic doctor,
+
+Miezi-Mungu .  .  .  .      a Kisawahili term for "God."
+
+Mtemi       .  .  .  .      a term synonymous with king
+
+Mtoni    .  .  .  .  .      nullah.
+
+Muhongo  .  .  .  .  .      tribute.
+
+Mulungu  .  .  .  .  .      a native term for "God."
+
+Mukunguru   .  .  .  .      intermittent fever.
+
+Mvuha    .  .  .  .  .      thunder.
+
+Ngombe   .  .  .  .  .      a cow.
+
+Pagazi   .  .  .  .  .      a porter, or carrier.
+
+Posho    .  .  .  .  .      food.
+
+Sami-Sami   .  .  .  .      the name of red beads
+
+Shamba   .  .  .  .  .      a field.
+
+Shasr    .  .  .  .  .      a muslin cloth.
+
+Sheikh   .  .  .  .  .      a title of courtesy given to an elderly
+                            man.
+
+Shukka   .  .  .  .  .      two yards of cloth.
+
+Sohari   .  .  .  .  .      a kind of coloured cloth.
+
+Sungomazzi  .  .  .  .      large glass or china beads of the size
+                            of marbles.
+
+Toujiri  .  .  .  .  .      the name for a particular kind of cloth.
+
+U        .  .  .  .  .      a prefix to denote the country: thus
+                            U-jiji signifies the country of Jiji.
+
+Uganga   .  .  .  .  .      medicine.
+
+Wa-      .  .  .  .  .     a prefix to denote persons: thus Wa-jiji
+                            would signify people of Jiji.
+
+Washeni  .  .  .  .  .     a term of contempt applied to the natives.
+
+Yambo    .  .  .  .  .     "How are you?"
+
+Ziwa     .  .  .  .  .     a pool, or lake,
+
+Ziwari   .  .  .  .  .     a pond.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+List of Camps from Bagamoyo to Ujiji and back to the Sea.
+
+
+THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA.
+
+From Bagamoyo to--     h.  m.
+Shamba Gonera .  .  .  1  30
+Kikoka .  .  .   .  .   3  40
+Rosako .  .  .  .   .  5   0
+Kingaru   .  .  .   .  6   0
+Imbiki .  .  .  .   .  4  30
+Msuwa  .  .  .  .   .  4  30
+
+From Msuwa to--        h.  m.
+Kisemo  .  .  .  .  .  4  30
+Mussoudi   .  .  .  .  4  20
+Mikeseh    .  .  .  .  7   0
+Muhalleh  .  .  .   .  6  45
+Simbamwenni  .  .   .  3   0
+
+TO UGOGO.
+
+USEGUHA,
+Ungerengeri River to-- h.  m
+Simbo   .  .  .  .  .  2   0
+Camp in plain .  .  .  4  10
+Makata River  .  .  .  2  30
+
+USAGARA.
+Camp west of Makata.   0   5
+Camp in plain .  .  .  4  30
+Camp  "   "   .  .  .  2   0
+Rehenneko  .  .  .  .  3  15
+Rehenneko to--         h.  m.
+Camp on mountain .  .  3  30
+Kiora   .  .  .  .  .  3  40
+Camp on river .  .  .  4  50
+Madete  .  .  .  .  .  2  30
+Lake Ugombo.  .  .  .  3   0
+Matamombo .  .  .   .  6   0
+Mpwapwa . .  .  .   .  7   0
+Kisokweh  .  .  .   .  2   0
+Chunyo .  .  .  .   .  1  30
+
+
+FROM UGOGO TO UNYANYEMBE,
+
+From Marenga Mkali to--h.  m.
+Mvumi, Little Ugogo   12  30
+Mvumi, Great Ugogo     4   0
+Matamburu  "   "   .   4   0
+Bihawana   "   "   .   4   0
+Kididimo   "   "   .   2   0
+Pembera Pereh  "   .  10   0
+Mizanza    "   "   .   5  30
+Mukondoku  "   "   .   6  30
+Munieka    "   "   .   5   0
+Mabunguru Mtoni  .
+       Uyanzi          8   0
+Kiti, Uyanzi .  .  .   6  30
+Msalalo   .  .  .  .   6  30
+
+From Msalalo to--      h.  m.
+Welled Ngaraiso .  .   3  30
+Kusuri .  .  .  .  .   3  15
+Mgongo Tembo .  .  .   3  30
+  "      "   Mtoni .   3  30
+Nghwhalah Mtoni .  .   2  40
+Madedita     .  .  .   2  30
+Central Tura, Unyam-
+   wezi   .  .  .  .   3   0
+Kwala River  .  .  .   7   0
+Rubuga    .  .  .  .   7  15
+Kigwa     .  .  .  .   5   0
+Shiza     .  .  .  .   7   0
+Kwihara   .  .  .  .   3   0
+
+
+UNYANYEMBE TO MRERA, UKONONG0.
+
+
+UNYAMWEZI.
+From Kwihara to--      h.  m.
+Mkwenkwe    .  .  .    1  30
+Inesuka     .  .  .    2   0
+Kasegera    .  .  .    3   0
+Kigandu     .  .  .    2  45
+Ugunda      .  .  .    7   0
+Benta       .  .  .    3  15
+Kikuru      .  .  .    5   0
+Ziwani      .  .  .    4   0
+Manyara     .  .  .    6  30
+
+UKONONG0.
+From Manyara to--      h.  m
+Gombe River .  .  .    4  15
+Ziwani   .  .  .  .    5  20
+Tongoni  .  .  .  .    1  30
+Camp     .  .  .  .    5  15
+Marefu   .  .  .  .    3   0
+Utende   .  .  .  .    7  15
+Mtoni    .  .  .  .    4   0
+Mwaru    .  .  .  .    5  15
+Mrera .  .  .  .  .    5  13
+
+
+FROM MRERA, UKONONGO TO UJIJI.
+
+
+
+UKONONGO,              h.  m.
+
+From Mrera to Mtoni .  4  30
+Misonghi   .  .  .  .  4  30
+Mtoni   .  .  .  .  .  6   0
+Mpokwa in Utanda .  .  4  45
+Mtoni      .  .  .  .  3   0
+
+UKAWENDI.              h.  m
+
+Mtambu River .  .  .   4  30
+Imrera    .  .  .  .   4  20
+Rusawa Mts.  .  .  .   2  30
+Mtoni     .  .  .  .   4   0
+Mtoni     .  .  .  .   5   0
+Camp in Forest .  .  . 6   0
+Camp in Forest .  .  . 5  30
+
+UVINZA
+Welled Nzogera .  .  . 2  30
+Camp in Forest .  .  . 4  15
+Siala [Kiala?] on the
+   Malagarazi  .  .  . 2  45
+Ihata Island in the
+   Malagarazi  .  .  . 1  30
+Katalambula    .  .  . 1  45
+
+UHHA
+Kawanga in Uhha .  .   5  30
+Lukomo    .  .  .  .   1   0
+Kahirigi  .  .  .  .   4   0
+Rusugi River .  .  .   5   0
+Lake Musunya .  .  .   4   0
+Rugufu River .  .  .   4  30
+Sunuzzi  "   .  .  .   3   0
+Niamtaga Ukaranga  .   9  30
+
+UJIJI.
+Port of Ujiji   .  .   6   0
+
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+Abdul Kader, tailor of the Expedition; retirement of,
+Abdullah bin Nasib,
+Acacia Horrida,
+African bridges,
+Ali bin Salim,
+Ambari,
+Amer bin Sultan, type of an old Arab Sheikh,
+Amram bin Mussood,
+Ant-hills, remarkable,
+Ants, white, destructiveness of,
+Arabs, antipathy to, as slave-traders, in Africa,
+Aranselar, chief butler of the Expedition,
+Asmani, giant statue of;
+    his murderous deportment,
+
+Baba (Father), term of courtesy in addressing elderly persons,
+Bagamoyo, French Mission Station at; life at; climate of,
+Bambarre, ivory depot,
+Bana Mikuba, the "Big Master,'
+Bangwe Island,
+Bangweolo Lake,
+Banyans, keen trading of;
+  their influence on African trade,
+Baobab, fruit of the,
+Baruti, one of Speke's Faithfuls,
+   death of,
+Beads as currency in the Interior,
+Bees, attack of, on the caravan,
+Bemba, wooded hills of,
+Bennet, Mr. James Gordon;
+   generous act of, in respect
+   to Dr. Livingstone's letters,
+Benta forest,
+Bihawana,
+Bikari, cluster of villages,
+"Bombay," or Mombay,
+Bomboma's village,
+Borassus flabelliformis, or Palmyra palm,
+Brooks, Dr.,
+Buffalo gnats,
+----herd,
+Bunder Salaam, cook of the Expedition,
+Burial ceremonies,
+Burton, Capt., experience of Bunyans,
+Bustard,
+
+Cazembe, King; his Queen and her Amazons,
+Chamati Hill,
+Chambezi, drainage of,
+Chambezi, Livingstone's difficulty about the,
+"Charley's" lodging-house at Zanzibar, kindly spirit of its
+landlord,
+Chowpereh, Mgwana soldier, ,
+Christie, Dr., physician to Seyd Burghash
+Chufwa fly,
+Chuma, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+Cloth as currency in the interior,
+Comorines,
+Corn-grinding women of Kisemo,
+Crocodile, narrow escape of author from,
+
+`Daily Telegraph,' representative of, at Aden,
+Dawson, Lieut., visit from, conversation as to his resigning
+command of the Search Expedition
+Dhows,
+Dilima Peaks,
+Dogara, or whitebait,
+Donkeys, equipment of; fine breed of, in Ubanarama,
+"Dowa," medicine,
+
+Earwigs, plague of, at Mpwapwa,
+Elephantiasis common in Zanzibar,
+Elephants, herd of; difficulty of shooting,
+Emancipation Proclamation of Ahraham Lincoln,
+Esau, Jemadar,
+
+Farquhar, W. L.;
+   his death; account of,
+Faulkner, Mr., incredible statements of,
+Ferajji,
+Fire-arms, what most suitable to the traveller
+Fish-eagle,
+Forest peach,
+Forest scenery of Unyarnwezi,
+Foreign Office, letters from,
+Franklyn, Mr. Hales,
+Fraser, Capt.,
+Freiligrath's description of the lion's habitat,
+French Mlissionaries, practical character of; Mission Station
+   at Bagamoyo,
+
+Giraffes, difficulty of killing,
+Glossina mortisans, or tsetse fly
+Goma Pass;
+Granville, Lord, letter from, conveying the thanks of Queen
+  Victoria and the announcement of the Royal present,
+Goodhue, Mr., or "Bana Mkuba,"
+
+Haematite,
+Half-castes, contemptible character
+Halimah, Dr. Livingstone's cook,
+Hassan, the Mseguhha,
+Henn Lieut, his meeting with the author; resigns the leadership
+Herembe, Cape,
+Herodotus, his account of the Nile sources,
+Hindis, Mohammedan, cheating character of,
+Hippopotami
+Honey-bird; habits of,
+Honga, or tribute ,
+Hosmer, Dr.,
+Hunters Paradise, the,
+Hyaenas,
+
+Ibrahim bin Rashid slain,
+Ihata Island,
+Imbiki,
+Itage village,
+
+Jako, employe of the Expedition,
+Jesuit Mission at Pagamoyo,
+Jiweh la Singa district,
+Johari, dragoman,
+Jumah,
+Jungle of Msuwa, its horrors,
+
+Kabogi, Cape,
+Kabogo Mountain, singular phenomenon of,
+Kadetamare, or Misonghi, village, .
+Kahirigi, boma of,
+Kaif-Halek or "How-do-ye-do," the letter carrier,
+Kalulu, the boy-slave,
+Kamolondo Lake,
+Kanengi River,
+Kaniyaga village
+Kanjee,
+Kanyamabengu River,
+Kanyenyi,
+Kayeh, a myth,
+Kasera ridge,
+Katanga, copper mines of,
+Katangara Islands,
+Kavimba,
+Khamis bin Abdullah; his death,
+Khamisi, desertion of; his narrow escape; flogged for
+        desertion; precis of character,
+Khonze, remarkable globes of foliage at
+Kiala, chief,
+Kigoma Bay,
+Kigonda, chief,
+Kigwena River,
+Kikoka village,
+Kikuma River,
+Kingari River,
+----    Valley,
+Kingaru village
+Kingwere, the canoe paddler
+Kiora village,; Peak
+Kirindo, chief,
+Kirurumo village,
+Kisabengo, chief, a minor Theodore,
+Kisemo village; belles of,
+Kisuka village,
+Kisunwe River,
+Kitanda or bedstead,
+Kitii defile,
+Kitunda Cape,
+Kiwyeh, Sultan of; village,
+Kiwrima Valley,
+Kolquall or candelabra tree,
+Kudu,
+Kukumba Point,
+Kulabi,
+Kusuri or Konsuli,
+Kwala Mtoni,
+Kwikuru,
+
+Lares and Penates of the Wazavira,
+Leukole's account of Farquhar's death,
+Liemba, Lake,
+Lincoln, Abraham, lake named after, by Livingstone,
+Lion and leopard, home of the; Freiligrath's description of,
+Liuche, valley of the,
+Livingstone, Dr., the author's first interview with, at Ujiji;
+     his anxiety for news; the low ebb of his resources;
+     his early rising; took the author for an emissary of the
+     French Government; his hard fare; his suffering and privations;
+     revival of his enthusiasm; his guileless character;
+     his physical appearance, ; absurd report of his marriage,
+     his general character and careful observations; sensitiveness
+     of criticism; amiable traits of his character, and his Spartan
+     heroism; his high spirits, inexhaustible humour, and retentive
+     memory; sincerity of his religion; ability to withstand the
+     African climate, due to his temperate life; his determination
+     to complete his task, spite of all difficulties, completeness
+     of his discoveries; summary of his experiences; interview with
+     King Cazembe; difficulty as to the Chambezi; discovery of Lake
+     Liemba; investigation of the Luapula; intervention in behalf of
+     Mahomed bin Sali repaid by base ingratitude; exploration of Uguhha;
+     sufferings at Bambarre, discovery of the Lualaba, description of
+     the beauties of Moero scenery; admiration of Abraham Lincoln;
+     his belief that the Lualaba or Webb's River is the true Nile;
+     his admission that the Nile sources have not been found;
+     his opinion as to the account of Herodotus; thwarted by the
+     cowardice of his men; return to Ujiji; dishonesty of Sherif;
+     destitute condition of the Doctor, his complaint of the Zanzibar
+     people not sending him freemen; improvement of his health from
+     more generous diet, contemplated cruise on the Tanganika; start
+     from Ujiji; liability to dysentery; manner of dealing with demands
+     for honga; loss of stores, &c., from Bombay's intoxication
+     his unwillingness to retaliate on the hostile natives, his
+     tenderness in sickness, disturbed in bed by his servant Susi in
+     a state of intoxication; his opinion that the Tanganika must have
+     an outlet; names the Kavunvweh islands the "New York Herald
+     Islets,"; his coolness at the hostility of the Wasansi, calms
+     them down by his gentle bearing and conversation; his resolve
+     to finish his task, ; complaint of Dr. Kirk's sending only slaves;
+     resolves to accompany the author to Unyanyembe; his sufferings on
+     the road; at Mpokwa's village, ; his value as a travelling companion;
+     stung by wild bees; his qualifications as a traveller,
+     peaceful recollections of his wife's grave, his relation of
+     incidents of the life of his son Robert; arrival at Ugundo,
+     letters from Dr. Kirk and home; welcome to Unyanyembe; in
+     comfortable quarters and in possession of stores; wreck of the
+     stores detained by Sayd bin Salim; in possession of four years'
+     store of supplies; his letter to Mr. Bennett, jun.; probable
+     results of his perseverance in African discovery; his last day
+     with the author; his intentions as to the future; the parting
+     farewell,
+Livingstone, Mr. Oswell, introduction to; equipment of his proposed
+    expedition; determines to resign,
+Livingstone, Robert Moffatt, incidents of his life,
+Lizard, large,
+Loeki or Lomani River,
+Lualaba or "Webb's River" of Livingstone; thought by him to be the
+    true Nile,
+Luapula River,
+Lubilash River,
+Ludha Damji,
+Lufira River,
+Luhanga Peak,
+Lukomo village,
+Luvumba Cape,
+
+Mabruki, cruel treatment of;
+Mabunguru Nullah,
+Madedita,
+Magala, Mutware of,
+Maganga,
+Magunda Mkali,
+Mahommed bin Sali, his release by Livingstone and subsequent
+      ingratitude,
+Maizun, Mons.,
+Makata Valley; River; Plain,
+Makumbi, chief,
+Malagash, Inlet,
+Malagarazi River,
+Manyuema country, people of; the El Dorado of the Arabs; sought
+      as slaves,
+Maganga,
+Marefu,
+Marenga Mkali,
+Masangi,
+Masika, or rainy season,
+Matamombo,
+Mazitu, marauding propensities of,
+Mbawala, species of antelope,
+Mbembu, or forest peach,
+Mdaburu River,
+Medicine for daubing warriors,
+Mfuto, Eastern,
+Mgongo Tembo, or "Elephant's Back,"
+Mgwana,
+Mikiseh,
+Mionvu, Mutware of Kimenyi,
+Mirambo; defeated at Mfuto,
+Misonghi, deserted village,
+Mizanza,
+Mkuti River,
+Mkuyu, gigantic sycamore,
+Moero Lake; beauty of the scenery,
+Mohammed bin Abdulla slain,
+Mohammed bin Gharib,
+Monkeys, troop of,
+Morris, Hon. E. J.,
+Mpokwa River,
+Mponda, chief,
+Mpwapwh, its fruitfulness;
+      Mountains,
+Mrera, chief,
+---, warriors of,
+Msuwa,
+Mtemi, chief,
+Mud-fish,
+Mugere River,
+Mugeyo village,
+Mugihewa territory,
+Mukamba, chief,
+Mukondoku, chief,
+Mukondokwa Range; Pass; River,
+Mukungu,
+Mukunguru, African intermittent fever,
+Munieka,
+Muniyi Usagara,
+Murembwe Cape; Point,
+Musa, chief of the Johanna men,
+Muscat Arabs of Zanzibar,
+Mussoudi, the Diwan's account of an extraordinary flood,
+Musunya Lake,
+Muzimu Island,
+Mvumi village,
+Mwaru,
+Myombo tree,
+Mussoud bin Abdhullah,
+Mussoudi; beautiful prospect at,
+
+"Nazi-Moya" at Zanzibar,
+Negroes of Zanzibar; character of,
+New, Rev. Charles, introduction to,
+"New York Herald" Islets,
+Ngaraiso village,
+Nghwhalah River,
+Nguru Peak,
+Niamtaga,
+Niasanga village,
+Niongo,
+Nondo, Spoke's runaway,
+Nyabigma Island,
+Nyambwa,
+Nzoe, antelope of Speke,
+
+"Omar," Mr. Stanley's watchdog; death of,
+
+Pallah buck,
+Pembera Pereh, Sultan,
+Perpusilla, the,
+Piaggia, the Italian traveller,
+Pisolitic limestone,
+Pottery, native, of the Wazavira,
+Price, Simon, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+
+Queen Victoria, letter conveying the thanks of Her Majesty and
+the announcement of the Royal present,
+
+Rehenneko village,
+Rosako village,
+Rua country; people,
+Rubeho Slopes; Peak,
+Rubuga,
+Rudewa River,
+Rugufu Lake,
+Ruhinga, chief,
+Rusizi River; problem of; delta of,
+
+Said bin Majid,
+Salim bin Rashid,
+Sultana of Simbamwenni,
+Sami-sami, red beads,
+Sayf, son of Ali, slain,
+Sayd bin Salim's house,
+Selim, interpreter,
+----, the Arab boy,
+Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar,
+Sitting on pombe,
+Sentakeyi, Cape,
+Shaw, J. W.; leaves the expedition,
+Shamba Gonera, or, "Gonera's Field," good disposition of the
+        Indian widow towards the whites; appearance of the place,
+        trade, &c.,
+Sheikh Sayd bin Selim,
+-----  Hamed,
+-----  Hassid,
+-----  Khamis bin Abdullah,
+-----  bin Nasib,
+-----  Sulton bin Ali,
+-----  Thani,
+Sherif, Dr. Livingstone's servant; dishonesty of,
+Shiza,
+Sigunga,
+Simbamwenni; desolation of by flood,
+----------, Sultana of,
+Simba, ruler of Kasera,
+Simbo,
+Simbo, Khambi,
+Singwe, a plum-like fruit,
+Slave-gang, chained,
+Sofi beads,
+Somalis;
+Soor Hadji Palloo,
+Soud, the Arab,
+----, son of Sayd bin Majid,
+----, bin Sayd, his attack on Wilyankura; his death,
+Speke, Capt., his "Faithfuls"; treatment of "Bombay" by;
+       error of, as to altitude of Tanganika,
+Stanley, Mr., start from Bombay; landing at Zanzibar; hospitable
+      reception by Capt. Webb; impressions of the city;
+      organization of the Expedition; visit to the Sultan; departure
+      from Zanzibar; landing at Bagamoyo; troublesome experiences;
+      visit to the "Livingstone caravan"; preparations for departure
+      into the interior, difficulties with employes; chase after a
+      thief, despatch of four caravans; departure of the fifth caravan,
+      led by himself; members composing it and outfit; the start,
+      first camp; Shamba Gonera; crossing the Kingani; hippopotami
+      shooting; Kikoka village; halt at Rosako; "Omar" watchdog,
+      missing; formidable number of insects, the tsetse-fly; game
+      hunting; difficulty of penetrating an African jungle; camp at
+      Kingaru; the grey Arab horse, and offence given by its interment;
+      interview with the king of Kingaru; loss of the re maiming horse
+      from cancer; desertion and sickness; appearance of Maganga's
+      caravan march to Imbiki; reach Msuwa, perils of the jungle,
+      astonishment of the chief; chained slave-gang; halt at
+      Kisemo; belle of; narrow escape of Khamisi; flogged for
+      desertion; reach Mussoudi; beautiful prospect; cross the
+      Ungerengeri start for Mikeseh; Ulagalla and Muhalleh;
+      overtake Maganga's caravan; meet with Selim bin Rashid,
+      news of Livingstone; pass town of Simbamwenni; its
+      fortifications; curiosity of the inhabitants; two
+      days' halt and overhaul of the luggage, attack of ague;
+      visit of ambassadors of the Sultana of Simbamwenni;
+      wretched encampment on the Ungerengeri; difficulty of
+      crossing the river; Makata Valley; loss of Bombay's
+      equipage,; difficulties of the Makata Valley; escape
+      and capture of Kingaru; emerge from the swamp Makata,
+      attack of dysentery, halt at Reheneko; ascent of the
+      Usagara Mountains; Mukondokwa Valley and River; Kiora;
+      camp at, illness of Farquhar; ford of the Mukondokwa
+      River; Madete, Lake of Ugombe; departure from Ugombo;
+      camp at Matamombo, death of of the dog "Omar"; Sheikh
+      Thani in clover at Mpwapwa, a good breakfast and
+      dinner, Farquhar left to be nursed; twelve pagazis
+      engaged, abundance of earwigs and white ants; Chunyo,
+      badness of the water; Marenga Mkali waterless district;
+      attack of fever; Ugogo; frantic conduct of the population;
+      West Mvumi; the Sultan's exorbitant demand of honda;
+      Matamburu, reasonableness of the Sultan of; Bihiwana;
+      attack of intermittent fever; Kididimo, bleak aspect
+      and bad water; Nyambwa, demonstrativeness of the people;
+      Mizanza; benefit from quinine; visit from the Sultan;
+      Little Mukondoku; Mukondoku Proper; commotion and
+      cowardice; uproar in the camp; debate as to route;
+      threatened mutiny; Munieka; Mabunguru Nullah;
+      Unyambogi; Kiti, Msalalo; Ngaraiso, Kirurumo,
+      greeting from the villagers; interview with Sultan
+      bin Mahommed; halt at Kusuri, and Mgongo Tembo;
+      Nghwhalah Mtoni, abundance of sweet, water;
+      Madedita, tsete-fly troublesome; reach Unyamwezi
+      territory at Eastern Tura, cultivated region;
+      Nondo, Speke's runaway; Central Tura, attempted night
+      robbery, a thief shot dead; pass  Western Tura; Kwala
+      Mtoni, mud-fish; illness of the tailor, Abdul Kader,
+      he wishes to give up his post; Rubuga, desolation of,
+      since Burton's visit; meeting with Amer bin Sultan,
+      Kigwa, wasted condition of; Shiza, pastoral aspect of,
+      visit from the Sultan; rejoicings in camp on reaching
+      Unyanyembe territory; life in Unyanyembe; breakfast and
+      gossip with Sayd bin Salim; Kazeh, a myth; leave Kwikuru;
+      in comfortable quarters; visit from the Tabora Arab magnates;
+      Tabora, chief Arab settlement in central Africa; attend a
+      council of war, feast at the close of the council; return
+      to Kwihara; the Livingstone caravan's halt of 100 days;
+      attack of fever; preparations for the march; warlike
+      demonstration; Eastern Mfuto, illness of Shaw,
+      personnel of the army; Umanda, medicine daubing;
+      war harangue; Zimbizo, attack on the village; fate
+      of Soud bin Sayd and his Arabs; retreat and stormy
+      councils of war; further retreat of the Arabs to Tabora,
+      serious position of the Expedition; intelligence
+      of Livingstone; news of death of Farquhar; illness
+      of Shaw, attack of Mirambo on Tabora; Khamis bin
+      Abdullah, &c., slain; preparations for Mirambo's threatened
+      attack on Kwihara; visit to Sheikh bin Nassib; retreat
+      of Mirambo, determination to lead a flying caravan
+      to Ujiji; apathy of Shaw, visit to Thani bin Abdullah,
+      arrival of letters; death of Baruti, evil reports by
+      the Arabs; present of a boy-slave; defeat of Mirambo at
+      Mfuto; nursing experiences: farewell feast at Unyanyembe;
+      march to Ujiji commenced by southern route; list of "braves"
+      of the Expedition; Bombay's tender passion; the start;
+      Shaw shows the white feather; Kinyamwezi village, attack
+      of fever; arrest of runaways, threat of slave-chain;
+      Inesuka, further desertions, punishment, withdrawal of
+      Abdul Kader, the tailor; sickness in camp, adverse
+      appearances; Kasegara, rejoicings at; Kigandu, Shaw's
+      by-play; his withdrawal; beauty of Unyamwezi forest
+      scenery; Ugunda; Benta; Kikuru, the mukunguru or fever;
+      camp at Ziwani; gigantic sycamore; Manyara, cultivated
+      region; difficulty of buying provisions; visit of Mtemi;
+      his astonishment at the author's medicine-chest; Gombe
+      River, its beautiful neighbourhood; narrow escape from a
+      crocodile, suspicious-looking natives; a peaceful camp-scene;
+      symptoms of revolt at starting onwards; murderous aspect of
+      Asmani and Mabruki; the march- resumed; sketch of the principal
+      men of the Expedition; Ziwani (pool), waterless condition of;
+      Tongoni, abundance of honey-birds; Marefu, rumours of war in
+      our front; march through a forest abounding with peach-trees;
+      Utende village; Mwaru, supposed report of Livingstone, Mrera's
+      district, wild elephants; Selim falls ill, start from Mrera
+      north-westward; confidence restored in the camp, remarkable
+      ant-hills; camp in the jungle; embassy from Simba; Uzavira,
+      ruined neighbourhood of; Misonghi; Mpokwa River, deserted
+      village near; Mtambu stream, its beauty; attack by a leopard;
+      shot at a wild boar; proximity of lions; Itaga village,
+      beginning of troubles, shortness of provisions, "Welled
+      Nzogera's" village, abundant supplies; crossing a marsh;
+      reach the Malagarazi; heavy exaction of the chief Kiala;
+      island of Ihata, fresh demands for ferriage; donkey seized
+      by crocodile; Uvinza, news of Livingstone, departure from
+      the Malagarazi; country of Uhha; halt at Kawanga; halt on
+      the Pombwe stream, interview with Mionvu; exorbitant demand
+      of honga; cross the Kanengi River; more claims of honga;
+      departure by stealth; Kanengi River; cross the Rusugi;
+      Lake Musunya, Rugufu River, Kabogo Mountain, singular
+      phenomenon of; Sunuzzi River; enter Ukaranga; beauty
+      of the landscape; Mkute River, Niamtaga, alarm of the
+      people; first view of the Tanganika,  Port of Ujiji in
+      view; salute announcing the approach of the caravan; meeting
+      with Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone; excitement of
+      the inhabitants; appearance of the Doctor; the introduction;
+      conversation; the over-due letter-bag, 365 days from Zanzibar;
+      budget of news; intercourse with Livingstone; suggestions
+      as to his future course; start with Livingstone for cruise
+      on the Tanganika; pass Bangwe Island; wooded hills of Bemba;
+      camp at Niasanga; Nyabigma Island; Mukungu; loss of valuables
+      from Bombay's intoxication; hostile demonstrations of the Bikari
+      people; bivouac on the shore disturbed by natives; round
+      Cape Sentakeyi, and sleep at Mugeyo; Magala, hospitality of
+      the people, visit of the Mutware of; rumours of wars;
+      Kisiku, native report as to the Rusizi River; Mugere, delta
+      of the; visit Mukamba, attacked by fever and experience
+      Livingstone's tenderness; Susi's drunken fit; Mugihewa
+      territory on the delta of the Rusizi; visit of the chief
+      Ruhinga, his geographical information; exploration
+      of the Rusizi debouchure: Kukubma Point, enchanting scenery
+      near; halt at Bemba, superstition of the Wajiji; `New York
+      Herald Islets,' so named by Livingstone; Cape Luvumba
+      hostile aspect of the Wasansi, return to Ujiji, domestic
+      and foreign news; at home with Livingstone; preparations
+      for march to Unyanyembe; attack of fever; Christmas-day
+      at Ujiji; the departure; meet with Mohammed bin Gharib;
+      Sirgunga, beautiful aspect of; sport at Urimba; homeward bound;
+      an elephant herd; Ukawendi, luxuriance of its vegetation;
+      painful march to Imrera; a giraffe shot; severe attack of
+      fever, the Doctor's prescription; the caravan attacked by
+      bees; Mrera, meeting with caravan sent by Sayd bin Habid,
+      exchange of news, encounter a lion; Ugunda, the deserter
+      Hamdallah retaken; receipt of letters and newspapers;
+      welcome to Unyanyembe; stores found tampered with;
+      a second Christmas celebration, four years' stores of
+     supplies turned over to the Doctor, commission to enlist
+     at Zanzibar fifty freemen as his carriers; farewell dance
+     of natives; choragic adieu of the Wanyamwezi; last night
+     with Livingstone; the last walk in his company, the farewell;
+     a letter from the Doctor; Ngaraiso, hostility of the Wakimbu,
+     enter Ugogo; warlike demonstrations, march of warriors
+     arrayed for the fight;  Khonze, its gigantic tree-foliage;
+     determined mode of dealing with the chief successfull;
+     Kanyenyi, cordial reception by the Msagira of; Mapanga,
+     hostile demonstration; asked to act as rain-maker; Kulabi,
+     suffer from a "peppo"; Marenga Mkali; Mpwapwa, death of
+     Farquhar; Mukondokwa valley, experience of the Masika;
+     Makata plain, battling with the floods; Mvumi village,
+     fighting with mosquitoes; the Doctor's despatches in danger;
+     a perilous ford; ten days' camp at Rehenneko, difficulties
+     of the march to the Makata River; arrive at Simbo, cross the
+     Unkerengere, and reach Simbamwenni, its desolated aspect;
+     Ulagalla, extraordinary devastation by flood; Msuwa, horrors
+     of its jungle; Kingaru Hera, news of the Zanzibar storm;
+     Rosako, welcome consignment from the American Consul;
+     ill-natured criticisms, information as to the "Livingstone
+     Search and Relief Expedition"; Ringweare's ferry, a watery waste,
+     four miles broad; welcome to Bagamoyo; meeting with Lieut. Henn;
+     introduction to Mr. Oswell Livingstone; the march ended;
+     welcome at Zanzibar, the American Consul and Rev. C. New;
+     congratulation of Lieut. Dawson; discussion as to his resignation;
+     visit from Dr. Kirk and Bishop Tozer, change in the  author's
+     appearance on his return; preparations for Mr. O. Livingstone's
+     Expedition, his resignation, selection of an Arab leader,
+     farewell to old travelling companions; departure from
+     Zanzibar in the `Africa'; reach Seychelles, a month's delay
+     at Mahe, agreeable intercourse; reach England via Aden and
+     Marseilles.
+Sultan bin Mohammed,
+Sultan of Zanzibar, Mr. Stanley's interview with,
+Sunuzzi stream,
+Susi, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+Swaruru, Sultan,
+Sycamore, gigantic,
+
+Tabora,
+Tagamoyo, massacre of the Wamanyuema by,
+Tanganika Lake, first visit to; cruise on, with Dr. Livingstone,
+Tarya Topan, integrity of
+Thani bin Abdullah, ,
+Tongoni, deserted clearing,
+Tozer, Bp., his residence at Zanzibar; his congratulations at
+           the author's success,
+Trade, mode of conducting, in Africa,
+Tsetse fly,
+Tura, Eastern; Central, ;
+          Western or Tura Perro;
+
+Udoe, cones of,
+"Uganga," or charm,
+Ugombo, Lake; Peak, Plain,
+Ugunda village,
+Uhha, king of,
+Ujiji, port of,
+Ukaranga territory, its beautiful aspect,
+Ukawendi country, scenery of,
+Ulagalla district,
+Ulimengo, absconding slave,
+Unamapokera, friendliness of,
+Ungerengeri River; Valley,
+Urundi Mountains,
+Unyamwezi forest scenery, beauty of; territory,
+Unyambogi,
+Urimba, camp at,
+Usagara Mountains,
+Utende village,
+Uwelasia River,
+Uyanzi, Magunda Mkali; or "Hot Field,"
+Uyoweh, Mirambo of,
+Uzavira, village in,
+
+Waganga, or medicine men; filthy war-potion, concocted by,
+Wagogo tribe, villages of,
+Wagtails regarded as birds of good omen,
+Waguhha tribe,
+Wagunda tribe,
+Wahumba tribe,
+Wajiji tribe,
+Wakimbu of Tura, rascality of,
+------- tribe; villages of,
+Wakonongo,
+Wamanyuema, fondness of, for marketing,
+Wangwana village,
+------- tribe, gormandizing of the,
+Wanyamwezi tribe, their superstitious aversion to antelope meat,
+War, council of, at Tabora,
+Warfare, tame mode of conducting,
+Wa-Ruga-Ruga,
+Wasawahili tribe,
+Wasansi tribe,
+Waseguhha tribe,
+Washenshi tribe,
+Wasungu tribe,
+Wavinza tribe, greed of
+Wavira tribe,
+Webb, Capt. F. R., U.S. Consul, his hospitality and courtesy,
+----, Mr. of Newstead Abbey, river named after him,
+----, Mrs.,
+Wagogo, cool impudence of the,
+Wilderness, African, more favourable to the traveller than
+      the populated country,
+Wild-boar shooting,
+Wilyankuru, attack on,
+Wire, high valve of, in the interior,
+
+Zanzibar city view of, from the bay, harbor
+         "Charley's" lodging house, ; character of the street
+         and population, trade, "M'nazi Moya"; house of Bishop
+         Tozer, mart of the interior, mode of commerce unchanged
+         for ages; population; filth and unhealthiness of;
+         inertness induced by climate of; Palace of the Sultan,
+----- Island; its aspect from the sea,
+Zassi River and village,
+Zebra,
+Zimbizo, attack on the village,
+Zimmerman on the benefit of an unencumbered mind,
+Ziwo, or pond,
+Ziwani (pool),
+Zogga, palm toddy,
+
+
+
+
+The end of the Project Gutenberg eBook  How I Found Livingstone
+
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE ***
+
+This file should be named hifli10.txt or hifli10.zip
+Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, hifli11.txt
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