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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #51780 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/51780)
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Olive, by K. G. Bitting
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: The Olive
-
-Author: K. G. Bitting
-
-Release Date: April 17, 2016 [EBook #51780]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE OLIVE ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Larry B. Harrison, Chuck Greif and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
-file was produced from images generously made available
-by The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
- THE OLIVE
-
- BY
-
- K. G. BITTING, M.S.,
-
- BACTERIOLOGIST,
-
- GLASS CONTAINER ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA
-
- THE RESEARCH LABORATORY,
-
- GLASS CONTAINER ASSOCIATION
- OF AMERICA,
-
- 3344 S. MICHIGAN AVENUE,
- CHICAGO, ILL.
-
- COPYRIGHT, 1920
-
- GLASS CONTAINER ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA
-
-
-
-
- OLIVES
-
- _Olea europaea_ L.
-
-
-There is no tree nor fruit which offers more in interest than the olive
-tree and its fruit. To obtain anything approaching an idea of its
-many-sidedness, it is necessary to become acquainted with the life and
-legends of ancient peoples, in which it entered as sustenance and as
-symbol; to know something of art, as the olive has furnished the motif
-for much decoration, both symbolic and purely esthetic; to know
-something of botany and horticulture, to appreciate its parts and to
-understand their structure and development; something of chemistry and
-physics, to understand its various constituents and their intelligent
-treatment; something of the culinary art, to understand its value and
-its varied uses as a food and condiment; of medicine, to appreciate the
-many virtues ascribed to it as a healing agent; and of cosmetics, to
-believe all that is claimed for it as a cleanser and beautifier. Each
-phase offers many fascinating possibilities, revealed through the most
-ancient as well as the most recent literature, for with time the olive
-has gained both in interest and value.
-
-
-Origin
-
-The olive according to De Candolle has been cultivated for more than
-4,000 years, probably the longest period for any tree. Its early history
-is known only through ancient literature, and ancient remains in which
-it served either as decoration or as a constituent. Through these its
-original home has been traced to Asia Minor, a region originally
-extending from Syria to Greece. That it grew on Mt. Ararat and was the
-harbinger to Noah of the recession of the flood is told in Genesis--“and
-the dove came in to him in the evening, and, lo, in her mouth was an
-olive leaf pluckt off.”
-
-The ancient Egyptians as a part of the fruit of their conquests obtained
-the olive during the 19th dynasty. Mummies, dating from the 20th to the
-26th dynasty, have been found surrounded by garlands of olive leaves.
-From Egypt it spread into northern Africa. It is said to have been taken
-to Greece by Cecrops, the founder of Athens. The legend states that in
-the reign of Cecrops both Poseidon and Athena contended for the
-possession of Athens. The gods resolved that whichever of them produced
-a gift most useful to mortals should have possession. Poseidon struck
-the ground with his trident and straightway a horse appeared. Athena
-then planted the olive. The gods gave the city to the goddess from whom
-it was called Athenae.
-
-Pindar says that all the slopes of Olympus were soon covered with it,
-and that the Athenians used to crown the victors in the Olympian games
-with its branches. Later it was used to crown their warriors and wise
-citizens. The method of oil extraction was also obtained from outside.
-The Greeks are supposed to have had the wild olive, Oleaster,
-previously, but the fruit of this is valueless. They are the first
-European people to have cultivated the olive. Its cultivation spread to
-the surrounding countries, where the Greeks founded colonies, Sicily,
-the coast of Italy, and Gaul, these forming nuclei for its spread into
-the adjacent lands. Pliny states, however, that the olive was not
-introduced into Italy until 627 B.C., and that it reappeared in Gaul in
-600 B.C., being carried to the latter country by the Phenician colony
-that founded Marseilles.
-
-The olive was carried later by the Romans into the countries in which
-they settled, Spain being the most notable, but it was also carried into
-the Iberian peninsula by the Arabs.
-
-The Greeks and the Romans cultivated it on the northern side of the
-Mediterranean, the Tyrians on the southern side, the Arabs finding it
-there and carrying it with them into Spain when they settled in that
-country. The double origin of the olive, Greco-Roman and Semitic, in
-this latter country is borne out by the names bestowed on the olive. In
-southern Spain the tree is called _aceituno_, the olive fruit
-_aceituna_, and the oil _aceite_, the name evidently derived from the
-Arabic name _zeitoun_, this in turn being derived from the Hebrew
-_zeit_. In northern Spain both Arabic and Latin names are used, the tree
-is called _olivo_ or _oliveira_, whereas the fruit and oil have the
-Arabic derivative names _aceituna_ and _aceite_ respectively, but the
-oil used in the church and in painting is called _oleo_. In Portugal
-similar conditions prevail, the cultivated olive is called by the
-Greco-Latin name _oliveira_, whereas the wild olive is called by the
-Arabic name _zambugeiro_, the fruit _azeitona_, and the oil _azeite_.
-
-Though some botanists claim that the olive is native to the Canary
-Islands, no word for it is found in the remains of the language of the
-Guanches, an ancient, but extinct, race of people who inhabited the
-islands. The available records show the tree to have been introduced
-there since 1403, and probably by the Phenicians.
-
-The olive was introduced by the Spaniards into Chili, Peru, Mexico, and
-the United States. From Mexico it was brought by Jesuit missionaries
-into Lower California, the first settlement being at Loreto, in 1697.
-The Jesuits founded fifteen missions, but were superseded by Franciscans
-in 1768. These latter proceeded northward to extend their work, the
-first of their missions being founded in 1769, at San Diego. The secular
-head of the mission, representing the King of Spain, had the foresight
-to carry the seeds of flowers, fruits, grains, and vegetables, so that
-flourishing gardens were soon brought into existence. When the missions
-went into secular hands in 1843, the gardens in many cases were
-neglected and many of the fruit trees died. The olive was one of the
-trees that withstood the neglect and was afterwards used for cuttings by
-the emigrants from the eastern states who came in 1849. From this time
-on the olive has received considerable attention, many experiments being
-made in its culture, and in recent years the plantings have increased to
-an enormous extent, due to the favor accorded to both the oil and the
-fruit. It has spread around San Diego and Los Angeles east into the San
-Joaquin Valley and north into the Sacramento Valley in California, and
-also into Arizona. In the latter state its cultivation is comparatively
-recent, so that only about 5 per cent of American olives are produced
-there.
-
-At the present time the olive is cultivated more or less extensively in
-the countries surrounding the Mediterranean--Asia Minor, Turkey, Greece,
-Italy, Austria, France, Spain, Portugal, Tunis, and Algeria. In the
-Western Hemisphere the main source is California, though the olive is
-cultivated in some of the countries of S. America.
-
-
-Duration
-
-The olive tree is of slow growth, but if allowed to grow naturally, it
-persists for centuries and attains a great size. De Candolle describes
-one tree 23 feet in circumference, its age supposed to be over 700
-years. Tournefort found fruitful old olive trees between Ephesus and
-Smyrna which must have been planted before the Mussulman invasion, as
-Turks had not planted olives, not esteeming them. The Mount of Olives on
-the east side of Jerusalem was among the places best cultivated. Near
-its foot was the grove called Gethsemane (Gath-Semen, oil press) because
-of the olives with which it was covered and those of the slopes above
-where an abundance of oil was pressed out. In the Garden of Gethsemane
-there remain only eight of these olive trees that are supposed to have
-existed at the beginning of the Christian era. Chateaubriand, writing
-in the early part of the nineteenth century of these olive trees, said,
-“one sees there eight olive trees in extreme decrepitude.” An article
-written recently by J. D. Whiting, American Vice-Consul at Jerusalem,
-had an interesting statement relative to one of these trees. “El Butini,
-the most famous of the Garden of Gethsemane’s eight olive trees, under
-which the Savior is supposed to have walked during the night of agony,
-has recently collapsed. The great tree was weakened by the locust plague
-during the spring and summer of 1915. When El Butini falls, then falls
-the Turk, runs the legend.”
-
-Throughout Europe and Asia are many old olive trees, some of them
-producing abundantly, their origin, however, lost in remote centuries.
-The olive is very tenacious of life, but the methods of cultivation,
-which tend to increase production, reduce resistance and diminish its
-duration of life.
-
-
-Etymology
-
-The generic name _Olea_ is from the Greek _elaia_, derived from the
-Celtic or Gothic _olew_, oil, on account of the abundance of oil in the
-fruit. The specific name _europaea_ is given to the species cultivated
-throughout Europe.
-
-The olive has been given fanciful names by the early peoples. It was
-known as the “tree of wisdom,” “Minerva’s tree,” the “Gift of Heaven,”
-etc. The Greeks consecrated the tree to Minerva, and made it the symbol
-of wisdom, abundance, and peace.
-
-
-Description
-
-The olive is an evergreen tree about 20 to 30 feet high, much branched
-and spreading. It forms a symmetrical head, having angular branches and
-opposite leaves. The leaves are dry and leathery in texture, lanceolate,
-entire, deep green above, and light hoary beneath. The flowers are
-small, star-shaped, creamy white with yellow centers, have a faint
-pleasing odor, and are axillary in compact racemes. The fruit, a fleshy
-pendulous drupe, is very abundant. It is oval, obovate, or globular in
-shape, about the size of a pigeon’s egg, dull greenish yellow even when
-full size but unripe, then gradually becomes yellow, red, and finally
-turns a glossy purplish black or black when ripe. In ripening, the side
-exposed to the sun reddens, then gradually the whole fruit changes from
-red to purple, then black. As fruit of all degrees of ripeness are
-developed at the same time, the tree furnishes an extremely beautiful
-combination of colors, the various greens of the leaf and fruits forming
-a background for the splotches of red, purple, and black formed by the
-ripening fruit. The fruit is peculiar in two respects, first, in that it
-contains in addition to the ordinary constituents of fruits an abundance
-of edible oil, consequently making it a valuable food; second in that it
-contains a bitter substance which does not disappear on maturity, so
-that the fruit cannot be eaten at any stage in its development without
-preliminary treatment for the elimination of this substance. The stone
-is two-celled, many times only one seed developing.
-
-
-Climatic Requirements
-
-The olive requires rather warm temperature, light humidity, and absence
-of heavy frosts. It can withstand temperatures of -7 to -8 degrees C. or
-even lower if not too prolonged, and if the change to higher temperature
-be gradual. Moist cold is more unfavorable than dry. The altitude at
-which it will grow depends on the local climate. The climate of the
-countries bordering on the Mediterranean and that of California are
-particularly favorable.
-
-
-Varieties
-
-The wild olive Oleaster is said to have been the original form, called
-by Linnaeus _Olea europaea sylvestris_, later by De Candolle _Olea
-europaea oleaster_ and the cultivated form _Olea europaea sativa_. The
-reason for this belief is said to be the _oleaster_ seeds reproduce
-trees true to type, whereas the seeds of _sativa_ produce trees having
-the characteristics of _oleaster_ but, though _oleaster_ under
-cultivation becomes modified in various ways, it does not produce fruit
-like _sativa_. Whichever form was the original, the subjection to
-cultivation for over 4,000 years, under the varying conditions of soil,
-climate, and methods of cultivation, has produced many varieties. Many
-of these doubtless are the result of accidental modifications, more or
-less fixed by successive cultivations. At the present time there are
-certain well-defined varieties which are cultivated, and of which the
-characteristics are well known, so that varieties may be selected
-according to the purpose desired, whether for the preservation of the
-fruit green, half ripe, or ripe, or for extraction of oil.
-
-Of the large number of varieties introduced into California, Wickson
-reports analyses made by the State university on 57 varieties. Of these
-only a comparatively few were retained as worthy of cultivation, chief
-among these being the Mission olive, the one planted originally in
-California in the old mission gardens. Wickson states there are several
-sub-varieties of this form.
-
-
-Propagation
-
-The olive is propagated by means of seeds, cuttings, grafting, and
-budding. Propagation by seeds is seldom done in this country, as it is
-so much slower and more troublesome than by cuttings, aside from the
-fact that the desired variety may not result. The pulp has to be
-removed, which is done usually by allowing the fruit to rot or by
-softening with an alkali. Unless removed from the stone, the seed may
-not develop for two years, otherwise the seed usually sprouts the first
-year.
-
-Propagation by cuttings is the commonest and easiest method, as the
-cuttings root readily, and either old or new wood may be used so that
-the cuttings may be large or small. Cuttings sent from Europe are
-usually in the form of truncheons, and these may be cut into pieces like
-firewood and will root.
-
-The story is told of a grove in Morocco in which the trees exhibited a
-peculiar arrangement. The reason given for this was that a king and his
-army on the way to the Sudan had encamped for the night, and stakes or
-pickets to tie the horses had been cut from a grove near by. The pickets
-were left and had developed into trees. This seems probable enough when
-it is considered that pieces of branches are taken, one end whittled to
-a sharp point and driven into the ground, and that these pieces will
-take root and develop. An olive company in California has recently
-transferred 3000 trees, 26 years old, from San Joaquin County to
-Oroville and Marysville. The trunks were sawed off about 18 inches above
-the ground, and the roots 12 inches from the stump. In a planting made 6
-years previously the same method was used and resulted successfully.
-
-Where trees are found undesirable for some reason, resort is had to
-budding or grafting. By these means the undesirable trees are not a
-complete loss, and results are obtained sooner. Many times varieties are
-obtained from Europe which on developing are not found suited to the
-conditions in this country; these plants may be used as stock for
-desirable varieties or some desirable variety is obtained which may be
-propagated rapidly by these means.
-
-The pruning must be done by persons of understanding, as the fruit is
-borne only on the two-year portion of the branches, and provision must
-be made
-
-[Illustration: Gathering Olives]
-
-to cut excessive growth in the season of too heavy development and
-stimulate in the season of poor development. The pruning thus regulates
-the growth of the branches which two years later will control the
-production of the fruit.
-
-Pruning of very large branches is sometimes done to admit more light and
-heat to the darker, cooler parts of the tree. The small branches thus
-provided in turn furnish nursery stock. Pruning is done in late winter
-and early spring. From March to October no pruning is done, but the
-trees are carefully tended through cultivation, irrigation, and
-fertilization.
-
-In California the young stock is set out in the groves in April, and
-about 35 feet apart. During the non-bearing period, the land between,
-which like all California groves, is kept in good cultivation and free
-from weeds, is utilized frequently for other crops.
-
-Though numerous stories are written of the remarkable ability of the
-olive tree to grow and bear in exposed situations, and with only small
-amounts of soil and water, the olive, like all other fruit trees,
-requires both cultivation and an adequate amount of water if a constant
-and abundant harvest be desired. As the groves are irrigated, the proper
-amount of water may be supplied at all times. The water is conducted
-through a system of underground pipes, which are provided with outlets
-at the end of each row of trees. From these outlets the water is
-directed into furrows to water the trees. As the irrigation is
-conducted by underground pipes, the groves are easily cultivated.
-
-
-Products
-
-It would seem that the olive is rightly and appropriately called the
-“Tree of Abundance,” for all parts of it have been used, and to the
-ancients, even with their limited cuisine as compared with that of
-today, it was a symbol of plenty, witness the apostrophe of King
-Sennacherib, made centuries before the Christian era, who called Assyria
-“A land of corn and wine; a land of bread and vineyards; a land of oil,
-olives, and honey.”
-
-
-FLOWERS
-
-In ancient medicine the blossoms of the olive were highly esteemed, but
-are not mentioned in the medicine of today. They were used as poultices
-to alleviate pain, sometimes alone, sometimes mixed with other
-substances.
-
-
-LEAVES
-
-The leaves were also used in medicine, a decoction made from them being
-said to stop bleeding, and on account of their astringency to reduce
-inflammation. The leaves and bark have an acrid and bitter taste, and
-have been prescribed as substitutes for cinchona. In France an extract
-of the leaves is used as a febrifuge, and has also been found valuable
-in preventing hectic paroxysms.
-
-From time immemorial the leaf and branch have been employed as a symbol
-of peace, and have appeared in sculpture and painting. No more
-beautiful emblem than the olive branch can be selected or devised to
-symbolize both peace and victory, and as such has been known through all
-the ages. Egyptian mummies, dating from the 20th to the 26th dynasty,
-have been found surrounded by garlands of olive leaves, and the tomb of
-the hero of today will oftentimes have its sculptured olive branch,
-telling its story and making its appeal stronger than could be made by
-words.
-
-Besides serving for esthetic purposes, the leaves, in spite of their
-astringency, are eaten by animals as forage, so that the trees have to
-be protected from them. It is curious that with all the ravages made by
-animals on the olive trees in the neglected mission gardens in
-California, after the missionaries had gone, some of these same trees
-furnished scions for many of the olive groves of today.
-
-
-WOOD
-
-The wood of the olive tree is much prized for certain purposes. It is
-very close, fine-grained, yellow to yellowish brown with irregular wavy
-brown to black lines and mottlings, especially near the root. It has no
-distinguishable annual rings or pith rays, and has evenly distributed
-vessels. It takes a beautiful polish. At present it is employed chiefly
-in lathe-work and carving for small fancy articles, and for cabinet
-work.
-
-In ancient times it seems to have had a much wider application, due no
-doubt to the size of the trees, which were larger as a result of not
-being subjected to the rigorous cultivation and pruning which they
-receive today. The Bible states that olive wood was used in the Temple.
-In the time of Pliny it furnished material for construction of ships,
-for wagon spokes, wedges, columns, pedestals, statues, and furniture.
-The Romans used both the wild and cultivated trees. The wood industry
-was developed in the vicinity of Nice in both France and Italy, and
-still flourishes. A considerable amount has been exported to England in
-recent years for the manufacture of walking sticks. The poorer quality
-is used for firewood, is inflammable, and produces great heat.
-
-
-BARK
-
-The bark contains a large amount of tannin. For medicinal purposes it is
-reduced to powder and acts as an astringent, a tonic, and a febrifuge.
-In warm climates a resin is exuded from it which solidifies in the air.
-It is called Lecca gum, as it was first found near Lecca. It contains
-some benzoic acid among other constituents and in ancient times was
-prescribed in medicine, but is not at present, and the gum is considered
-valueless.
-
-
-FRUIT
-
-The fruit has been considered a choice food at all times. It has
-appeared at the feasts of epicures, both ancient and modern, as a
-relish, and to be eaten at the end of the repast as part of the dessert,
-and at all times it has also furnished a staple food for the poor in the
-Orient and in Greek and Latin countries. Those who were well provided
-were admonished to have care for those less fortunate: “When thou
-beatest thine olive tree, thou shalt not go over the boughs again; it
-shall be for the stranger, for the fatherless, and for the widow.”
-(Deuteronomy XXIV., 20.) The people obliged to live frugally have found
-it a great resource, particularly in Lent and for those at a distance
-from the sea unable to obtain fresh fish. It is said that Plato
-preferred olives to all other foods, and often made a meal on them
-alone.
-
-Though olives are known and consumed throughout the civilized world,
-comparatively few persons, aside from those living in the regions of
-their cultivation, know that olives have to undergo certain treatment
-before they can be eaten. It is a common practise in olive regions to
-encourage the visitor to taste the fruit directly from the tree. The
-fruit, both green and black, looks so fine and tempting, that the
-disgust on tasting is correspondingly great. It is claimed that some of
-the older varieties could be eaten without preparation, that they dried
-naturally, and were sweet like raisins.
-
-The olive contains a bitter and acrid substance or substances which must
-be removed before the olives are edible. It is referred to in most of
-the literature as a “bitter principle”, and has been called an acid, a
-tannin, and more recently a glucoside. Cruess has repeated the work of
-the various investigators, who claimed these different substances, and
-as a result has come to the conclusion that it is a glucoside, that is,
-a combination of glucose with another compound.
-
-In immature fleshy fruits there is usually an accumulation of acids,
-tannins, and sometimes starch. As ripening proceeds, carbohydrates and
-aromatic substances are formed, and the bitter, acrid, or astringent
-taste disappears. In the olive there is no starch found at any stage of
-maturity. Glucose has been found in all stages, and is supposed to be
-the substance from which the oil is formed. The oil is in very minute
-quantities in the fruit up to the time when the pit is formed, from then
-on it increases gradually up to its maximum when the fruit is not quite
-mature. In the plant economy the fat or oil is one of the most important
-food reserves of plants. All parts of the fruit--rind, flesh, stone, and
-seed--contain oil, the fleshy part, forming about 80% of the fruit,
-containing the largest amount.
-
-Contrary to the condition existing in most fruits, the bitterness
-remains through all stages of development in the olive. A substance of
-glucosidic nature, given the name “oleuropeine”, has been isolated, and
-found to be of extreme bitterness. This may be the substance or one of
-the substances which cause the inedibility of the untreated olive.
-
-The oil is the most important constituent of the fruit on account of its
-high food value and its use in the industries. It is used to a large
-extent in cold countries and also in dry countries where there are few
-cattle, the oil taking in the various culinary operations, the place of
-butter and other fats.
-
-Among the ancient Jews the oil was considered indispensable and as
-necessary as bread. An abundance of oil was looked upon as a blessing
-from God. Vast public storehouses were constructed to hold it for the
-scarce years. To the Greeks the three indispensable foods were oil,
-grains, and wine, the oil entering into most of their dishes. The Romans
-had a large trade in the oil, and it was also used, to a large extent,
-in their domestic cooking. In Italy and Spain street vendors fry
-fritters in the oil and sell them while hot. It has considerable use in
-conserving fish, particularly sardines. The higher grades of French,
-Spanish, Norwegian, and American sardines are packed in olive oil. This
-use has been extended in recent years to the packing of tuna fish.
-
-Olive oil occupies a high position as a vegetable fat. Many others have
-been prepared and offered as substitutes, and if judged by chemical
-composition alone, give practically equal food value, but are lacking in
-the delicious flavor which makes olive oil distinctive and gives it a
-superiority over all other oils.
-
-The oil is a large factor in the industries; it serves as an extractive
-of perfumes, as a constituent of fine, smooth soaps, and as a lubricant
-in watch factories. Formerly the lower grades were used commonly for
-lubricating purposes, but with improved methods of clarifying and the
-greater expense attendant on its use, it has been superseded by cheaper
-lubricants.
-
-An enormous quantity has been and is still used in religious ceremonies,
-in the ordinations of the clergy and rulers, and anointing in the
-sacraments, besides by old world peoples generally in the lamps in the
-churches and temples, many of which are kept burning continually. An
-idea of the vast amount consumed for this purpose can be obtained from
-the fact that in one mosque alone there are 1,200 lamps burning
-constantly, and requiring about 25,000 kilos of oil annually.
-
-In medicine it has been and is still used extensively. The ancients
-rubbed it on their bodies to make the muscles supple and to cleanse and
-protect the skin, particularly after bathing, and it still functions for
-these purposes. It was used to heal wounds, in liniments, and as a mild
-laxative. At present it is a constituent of liniments, ointments,
-cerates, and plasters. The people who are habitual patrons of the olive
-and its oil are noted for their smooth, beautiful complexions. It is
-said “the warm rosy complexion of the Italian and Sicilian women is due
-to the free use of olive oil as much as to the air and climate of their
-country.”
-
-The residue or marc which remains after the oil is extracted is used as
-a food for sheep and hogs, for fertilizer, and for fuel, and there is
-obtained from it a clear, illuminating gas.
-
-
-
-
-PREPARATION OF FRUIT
-
-
-Foreign
-
-In the early preparation of olives in order to remove the bitterness,
-they were soaked in water, which was renewed from time to time,
-sometimes hot water being used. The olives, after draining, were then
-held in brine. The green olives as well as the mature and black were
-used.
-
-The Romans exercised the greatest care in their preparation, and
-introduced refinements, by not only removing the bitterness, but by
-causing them to acquire various flavors through infusion in solutions
-containing aromatic substances.
-
-One of their methods for the preparation of green olives consisted in
-adding roasted salt to the olives after a preliminary soaking in hot
-water, then covering them with grape must, boiled wine, or honey water,
-and to this solution were added fennel, mint, and lentiscus seed. Fennel
-was used as a tampon to keep the olives immersed. A simpler method was
-to use vinegar with the brine. Sometimes the olives were beaten to
-facilitate the action, but this caused discoloration, which was avoided
-by making cuts in them. The brine was replaced by oil as a preserving
-liquid. Another method was to put the olives with the aromatics in the
-brine at the start, then they were removed, crushed lightly, and put in
-a mixture of oil, vinegar, and honey, to which were added leek, celery,
-mint, and sometimes rue. The rue was supposed to be most efficacious in
-bringing out the natural flavor, and was most prized. The mature olives
-were first put in brine for 30 to 40 days, then put in the preserving
-liquid with the aromatics. Olives prepared in the ways indicated were
-known as “Colymbades”.
-
-A form of conserve made by the ancients, and to which the name
-“Epityrum” was given, consisted in taking green, mature, or black fruit,
-though, as in the former, the green were preferred, and drying them in
-the shade, after which they were put in baskets, and crushed in a press.
-The crushed fruit was then put in vessels, sprinkled with salt, and had
-mixed with it lentiscus seed and minced leaves of fennel and rue, and
-was finally covered with oil.
-
-Many recipes have been left by the ancients, the preparations varying as
-to time, strength of solutions, mixtures of spices, etc. To the recipes
-of Palladius (1518-1580) is owed the knowledge that the Romans were
-cognizant of and used lye solutions, though this is supposed to be a
-modern practise. In this particular recipe sifted ashes are indicated as
-one of the ingredients, and it is supposed that this recipe, changed in
-detail, furnished the basis for present day methods. The use of wood
-ashes was introduced into France by an Italian refugee named Picholini,
-who settled in Provence, devoting himself to the preparation and sale of
-preserved olives. The olives preserved according to his process are
-called “olives a la Picholine”. Previous to his time the preparation in
-southern France consisted of crushing the olives lightly, immersing in
-clear water, which was renewed each day for about nine days, then
-preserving in brine. This latter process is still employed for the
-olives in which appearance is not an asset. For the more carefully
-prepared ones, the method was to pick by hand when the olives had
-attained full development, then they were carefully sorted, and immersed
-in lye, the duration in the lye depending on the size of the fruit, and
-the concentration of the lye. They were removed from the lye when the
-flesh was penetrated to, and readily detached from, the stone.
-
-There are many variations of the lye treatment. In the olive countries
-the preparation is done in the homes as well as in factories, and it is
-in the homes, naturally, that the greatest variations occur. Lime is
-often used with the ashes, one formula consisting of the olives mixed
-with a paste of wood ashes and freshly slaked lime. In the ordinary
-methods, however, a solution is made of the sifted ashes and lime,
-sometimes sodium carbonate taking the place of the ashes. In the
-ordinary factory preparations both ashes and lime are omitted, and
-either caustic soda or potash used. When removed from the lye, the
-olives are put in clear water, changed night and morning for three or
-four days, then put in brine.
-
-The early accounts of olive preparation show quite conclusively that
-great variation in strength of the caustic solution was inevitable, but
-fortunately the tendency to err was on the weaker side. It was not until
-the modern introduction of caustic preparations of soda and potash that
-standardization of the process was possible. Even with this possibility
-the practise remains largely empirical and is based upon the experience
-of the operator. Some still adhere to the use of weak solutions, taking
-considerable time to act upon the olive, whereas others use relatively
-strong solutions so as to hasten the process.
-
-The brine used has been subject to quite as marked variation as the lye.
-A weak brine has been used in order to encourage the natural
-fermentation of the fruit, which corresponds to the fermentation in our
-cucumber pickles. The other extreme is represented by the use of a very
-strong brine which practically inhibited all fermentative change and
-this same brine was filtered and used a succeeding season. Every
-gradation between these extremes has been in common use. As might be
-expected, more or less of the fruit softened and underwent changes which
-at present would be regarded as decomposition or rotting rather than as
-clean, normal fermentation. The esthetic side of olive preparation has
-not always been of the highest order, though, as in the case of many
-other foods, very great improvement has been wrought in recent years.
-
-Even with the later methods the use of aromatic substances has not been
-abandoned, and many of these are used, such as bay leaves, cloves,
-coriander, cumin, mint, orange skin, fennel, etc., the amounts and
-combinations varying greatly. Sometimes the aromatics are first
-extracted, the solution concentrated, and a quantity of this solution
-added to the brine, or they are boiled in the brine at the start, then
-removed, and when the brine is cooled, it is ready for use.
-
-In Spain the ripe olives are not treated ordinarily with lye, but by the
-slower process of soaking in water. The black olives, gathered late in
-the year, are cured in a salt brine to which black pepper is added.
-After the bitterness is removed, they are preserved in oil.
-
-A process used at present for ripe olives which is very simple but
-effective, is to mix fine salt with them after they have been cleaned
-and sorted. They are stirred twice a day, and through the osmotic action
-of the salt, a dark-colored juice is exuded which contains, among other
-constituents, the substance causing the bitterness. To hasten the action
-the olives are pierced with a needle. The Spaniards vary this method by
-adding aromatics, as wild marjoram, thyme, fennel seed, anise seed,
-garlic, laurel leaves, etc., at the same time as the salt. The special
-spice mixtures are held as trade secrets by the manufacturers.
-
-When the bitterness has been removed, the olives are washed, dried
-lightly, and placed in casks or jars until required. Before being served
-the olives are soaked in oil.
-
-One style of Greek packing of ripe olives is of special excellence. Sour
-wine is added to the pickle to accentuate the flavor and the product is
-packed in oil. The olives are plump, tender, and brilliant, and possess
-a very rich flavor.
-
-In parts of Southern Europe certain kinds of olives are left on the
-trees to become very ripe, and are then dried in the sun without any
-preparation. These are only used locally as they are lacking in the fine
-flavor of the prepared olive.
-
-In the preparation of the olive, both green and ripe, during all these
-centuries, there had been no attempt at sterilization. The olive was
-preserved by partial drying, by the action of salt, and by its
-spontaneous fermentation in pickle in which certain desirable forms of
-organisms had the ascendency. With the good fruit thus prepared, there
-must have been considerable which was spoiled, and yet no illness is
-known to have resulted.
-
-Though olives have figured so largely in the alimentation of southern
-Europe, the oil particularly being so important and general a food, the
-people of northern Europe have not esteemed either to an important
-extent. With the crude methods in vogue for transporting the oil, and
-the lack of understanding as to its nature, it is supposed that their
-apathetic attitude was due to its being received in poor condition.
-
-In England also, though so close to the olive growing districts, the
-olive has not been used to any considerable extent, judging from its
-absence from menus and from their cookery. In examining old cookery
-books it was surprising to find no mention of olives. In Russel’s “Boke
-of Nurture” and Mrs. Napier’s “Noble Boke off Cookry” the manuscripts
-dating from the 15th century, there is no mention of olives, though
-there are condiments and spices from foreign countries used in sauces
-and other preparations. Neither is there any mention of olives in “The
-Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby Opened” written in the 17th century, though
-Digby had traveled much and lived on the continent. The earliest mention
-in 17 cookery books, published in the 17th and 18th centuries is the
-following, published in 1745, and which is really a translation of a
-French work by L. Lemery, physician to the King, and member of the Royal
-Academy. It is interesting in showing the many virtues attributed to
-olives.
-
-
- =“OF OLIVES”=
-
- “You ought to chuse such as are large, pulpy, well preserv’d and
- tasted, and those that have been cultivated in hot Countries.
-
- They create an Appetite, fortify the Stomach, dissolve and expell
- the viscous and gross Humours fix’d there, repress Reachings, and
- are a little nourishing.
-
- They produce no ill Effects, unless they are us’d to excess.
-
- They contain much Oil, Phlegm, and essential Salt.
-
- They agree in cold Weather with any Sort of Age and Constitution,
- provided they are good, and well preserv’d.”
-
-
-=Remarks=
-
-“_Olives_ are oblong or oval and juicy Fruits, larger or smaller,
-according to the Country they grow in: Care must be taken to gather
-them before they are ripe, and then they have a harsh bitter Taste not
-to be endured, because their salts are clogg’d and swallow’d up by the
-earthy and gross Parts.
-
-_Olives_ are preserv’d with Water and Salt, and then they become
-pleasing to the Taste; the Reason is, because the Liquor of Brine causes
-a little Fermentation in the _Olives_, by the Help thereof the Salts
-free themselves by degrees of the earthy Parts that do retain them; and
-afterwards with more Lightness and Delicacy prick the nervous Fibres of
-the Tongue.
-
-“The Brine produces another good Effect in the _Olives_; for by its
-saline Parts it stops up the Pores of this Fruit, and prevents the Air
-from ent’ring too much into it, and thereby cause a considerable
-Fermentation therein, which destroys the Fruit, and soon rots them.
-
-_Olives_ well preserv’d create an Appetite, by gently pricking the Sides
-of the Stomach, not only by their acid Salts, but also by those
-communicated to them by the Pickle. They also bind up and fortify the
-Stomach by their earthy Parts, which swallow up the over-abounding
-Moistures that relax the Fibres of that Part.
-
-The _Picholines_ are _Olives_ cut in several Places, and then steep’d in
-Pickle; they are sooner in a Condition to be eaten than others, because
-that by the Help of the Incision made in them, the Brine or Pickle is
-sooner and more effectually communicated to their whole Substance.
-
-Oil of _Olives_ is much us’d in Ailments; it’s of a qualifying,
-mollifying, anodine, dissolving and detersive Nature, good for the
-Cholic and Bloody-flux, and is prepar’d in this Manner.
-
-They get together in _November_ or _December_, a great Quantity of full
-ripe _Olives_, and lay them by for a Time in some Corner of the House,
-where they are heated, and thereby become purified of their watry
-Moisture; then they grind them in a Mill, and put them into Rush or Palm
-Frails, plac’d on the Top of one another Pressways, and the first Oil
-that comes from them, is called _Virgin’s Oil_.
-
-They sprinkle the _Olives_ with warm water, and by pressing them a-new,
-and still the more, there comes a good Oil from them.
-
-This done, they stir the _Olives_ again, and sprinkle them with hot
-Water, from which, thus order’d, there proceeds another Oil full of
-Dregs, and not so good as the rest.
-
-These Oils are easily separated from the Water, because they swim a top,
-but they find a Kind of Lees to the Bottom, which the Ancients called
-_Amurca_.
-
-Those _Olives_ of which you design to make Oil, must ripen ’till they
-are even rotten; and the Reason is, because the sulphurous Parts in them
-have had Time to disengage themselves from those gross Principles, which
-before fix’d them, which we know by the sweetish and oily Taste that
-then they had. They also let them ferment for some time before they
-press them, that so those sulphurous Parts may free themselves, and be
-more fully separated from the watry and saline Parts, with which they
-were united in the Fruits. Here it is to be observ’d that you cannot
-extract a Drop of Oil from green olives, but only a viscous Juice,
-because their oily Principles are very strictly united with their other
-Principles.
-
-The Leaves of the _Olive-Tree_ are astringent, and fit for to stop the
-Bleeding of the Nose, and Looseness.
-
-There are certain wild _Olive-Trees_ that grow near the Red-Sea, from
-which there sweats out a Gum that stops Blood, and cures Wounds.
-
-The _Olive-Tree_ in Latin called _Olea_, comes from the _Greek_ Word
-_elaia_ which also signifies the same Thing.”
-
- * * * * *
-
-A later work, “The Lady’s Assistant” published in 1778, gives a much
-better idea of how little they were used at that time in England.
-
- OLIVES
-
- “OLIVES are the fruits of trees, which grow wild in the warmer
- parts of Europe; we have them in some of our gardens; but with us
- they will not ripen to any perfection.
-
- There are three kinds, the Italian, Spanish, and French; we have
- them therefore of various sizes and flavors; some prefer one, and
- some the other.
-
- The fine sallad oil, as has been before mentioned, is made from
- this fruit, for which purpose they are gathered ripe; but for
- pickling they are gathered when half-ripe, at the latter end of
- June: they are put into fresh water to soak for two days; after
- this they throw them into lime-water in which some pearl-ashes have
- been dissolved: they lie in this liquor six-and-thirty hours; then
- they are thrown into water which has had bay-salt dissolved in it:
- this is the last preparation, and they are sent over to us in this
- liquor: they are naturally as they grow on the tree very bitter,
- and therefore require all these preparations to bring them to their
- fine flavor. To some olives they add a small quantity of essence of
- spices, which is an oil drawn from cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon,
- coriander and sweet-fennel seed distilled together for that
- purpose: twelve drops are enough for a bushel of olives: some
- prefer them flavored with this essence, but others like them best
- plain.”
-
-At present the use of aromatic substances commercially is not large. It
-is contended that consumers cannot use flavored olives in sauces or
-other preparations so freely, as extraneous flavors are introduced which
-in some cases are undesirable, the unflavored olive permitting greater
-freedom in use.
-
-For the preparation of the green olives “a la Sevillane,” the fruit is
-first treated with alkali, then washed in clear water, after which it is
-put into 2 or 3 per cent boiled brine, where after a time fermentation
-starts, which imparts a slight lactic acid taste to the fruit. It is
-then washed in water, graded for size, and put in barrels with a 5 or 6%
-salt, when they are ready for consumption.
-
-The half ripe olives are put in a boiled brine of 12 to 15% for six
-days, after which they are washed in running water and then put in jars
-in a 6 to 8% brine with a bay leaf and a sprig of thyme and fennel.
-Olives prepared in this way are called “a la Provencale.” A variation on
-this method, called “a la Madrilene” is to put the olives in barrels,
-after the preliminary salting and washing, in 10% brine with red
-pimiento, pepper corns, laurel, thyme, and tomato purée.
-
-The black olives are gathered at the time of the change in color, and
-put in water, renewed every 12 hours, until the bitterness has
-disappeared, which requires 40 to 50 days, sometimes even longer. They
-are then put into brine.
-
-The large olive “La Tanche” after sorting and cleaning is put directly
-into a 10 to 15% brine in wooden casks or cement tanks which hold from
-4,000 to 6,000 kilos. When the bitterness has been abstracted, they are
-ready for sale. The brine is decanted and held until the following year.
-
-To prepare them so that they may be ready for sale sooner, the fruit is
-run over a roller provided with fine points which perforate the skin,
-after which the olives are put in layers and sprinkled generously with
-salt. They are stirred frequently, and when they “sweat,” they are put
-in barrels with pepper corns and bay leaves, or in jars with olive oil
-and condiments, or they may be put in jars without any addition as they
-are preserved by their own oil and the absorbed salt.
-
-The methods of preparation cited are those used for olives consumed in
-foreign countries, very few thus prepared being imported, as they are
-known only to olive connoisseurs.
-
-
-Imported Green Olives
-
-Nearly all the green olives used in this country come from Spain and are
-generally known as “Queen olives.” In years of shortage a few come from
-Italy, Greece, and France. They are hand picked, cleaned, treated in the
-usual way with lye, and washed, but during this process care is
-exercised to prevent them being exposed to the air as it is desired to
-retain the green color. They are then graded for size and quality and
-placed in huge casks or “pipes” with sufficient brine to cover them.
-The “pipes” are exposed to the sun to favor the fermentation which
-requires six weeks or more, depending upon the temperature. During the
-fermentation, the olives change slowly from deep green to golden. The
-pipes hold from 160 to 180 gallons and are used for shipping the olives
-to this country. Ten per cent brine is used for filling the casks, but
-the brine weakens during the curing and is usually 7 or 7-1/2% at the
-finish.
-
-The Queen olives are hand graded for size on the basis of the number per
-kilo. The following grades are made:
-
-
- QUEEN OLIVES
-
- 60-70
- 70-80
- 80-90
- 90-100
- 100-110
- 110-120
- 120-130
- 130-140
- 140-150
- 150-160
- 160-180
- 180-200
- 200-220
-
-They are also graded for quality, as: “prime” or “first quality,”
-“seconds,” and “Queen culls.” Only the first and second grade are sent
-to this country though all sizes are, but there is no designation by
-which the consumer may obtain a desired size. The term Queen olive may
-mean those having only 60 to the kilo or those with 220 to the kilo.
-
-Some green olives are packed in tins and shipped to this country and a
-comparatively few are brought in bottles. The importers prefer to
-purchase the olives in bulk and pack according to their trade
-requirements, under the sanitary conditions imposed in this country
-rather than those found abroad. The olives are transferred from the
-pipes to bottles and either supplied with fresh brine or the brine from
-the pipe is carefully filtered and only such addition made as needed to
-make up the difference. The use of the original liquor gives a decidedly
-better flavor, though it is often sacrificed in order to get one which
-is perfectly clear.
-
-The green olive is retailed almost wholly in glass, either in fancy hand
-packed packages or in pint and quart jars. Many attempts have been made
-to create a sale in tin containers, but without success as there are
-decided advantages in being able to see the size and quality. Seeing the
-fruit no doubt frequently suggests its use and purchase. A few olives
-are still retailed in bulk but they soon become covered with yeast and
-other organisms, and have an unattractive appearance.
-
-The origin of the stuffed olive is of very recent date, but by whom
-originated is not quite clear. According to an authority[1] on Spanish
-olives, stuffed olives were unknown before 1893-4. It was in 1895 that
-Señor Picasa, the general manager of the Sevilla Packing Company, had
-seen olives stuffed with pimientos in Spain, and in the following year
-introduced them into the United States, the company packing them under
-the copyrighted name of “Pimola.” In 1897, a Spanish house packed
-pepper-stuffed olives, and later on other firms also, among the latter
-many American firms. As the pimiento is grown and prepared in Spain, and
-labor cheaper there than here, the industry has been practically
-transferred to that country.
-
- [1.] H. C. Newcomb, former vice-consul to Spain.
-
-The operation of stuffing consists in removing the pit and filling the
-cavity with some other substance, particularly pimiento, these forming
-the bulk of the stuffed olive trade. The bright red of the latter gives
-a pleasing contrast with the green, and the mild pungency is very
-agreeable to many persons. Pickled celery, capers, etc., have been used,
-but were not so favorably received, and at present, the substances used
-to any extent, aside from the pimiento, are Manzanillos stuffed with
-pieces of Queens, and some stuffed with anchovies for the South American
-trade. Pitting machines have been devised, and also machines for
-stuffing the olives, but the work done by the stuffing machines is crude
-as compared with hand work. The olives used for stuffing are the
-Manzanillo which are smaller than the Queen. The sizes are as follows:
-
- MANZANILLO (Stuffed)
-
- 180-200
- 200-220
- 220-240
- 240-260
- 260-280
- 280-300
- 300-320
- 320-340
- 340-360
-
-They are packed in barrels of about 45 gallons capacity, and like the
-Queen, are repacked into individual containers in this country.
-
-A few olives are packed with a mince of capers, anchovies, truffles,
-etc., and the olives preserved in oil. A few are also packed for
-garnishing, in which cubes are cut out and the spaces filled with bright
-peppers.
-
-
-Domestic
-
-In California the commercially prepared olives are practically all ripe,
-only a very limited quantity of green ones being prepared. Since the
-olives, even on the same tree, ripen at various periods, three pickings
-are made during the season, when olives well colored and of an equal
-degree of ripeness are taken. In excessively ripe olives, the skin
-toughens, and the fruit is difficult to pickle. The trees are pruned so
-as to keep them low enough to be reached by the harvesters on step
-ladders, in order that all picking may be done by hand. The picked fruit
-is taken to a central point to be filled into boxes or barrels, for
-transportation to the factory. For the best grades of olives, particular
-care is taken during this part of the work to avoid bruising the fruit,
-which is picked into canvas bags, pails, etc., then poured into barrels
-partly filled with water, so that the water will furnish a cushion for
-the fruit. The olives are transported to the factory in these barrels.
-These precautions are taken as bruised spots soften and become black,
-and the resulting processed fruit will not be of first quality. Many
-
-[Illustration: Sorting Olives for Size by Machine]
-
-growers deliver fruit dry in lug boxes, but bruising and crushing are
-liable to occur during transportation. The fruit is delivered into a
-hopper filled with water, then from the hopper into boxes where the
-fruit is drained. The fruit is delivered in the factory to be first
-sorted which is done on a moving belt, and here all stems and defective
-fruit are removed as the fruit is carried slowly past the workers who
-sit or stand on either side. In some factories the sorting is done after
-the fruit is pickled, but is much more difficult due to the change in
-color
-
-[Illustration: Sorting Olives for Quality by Hand]
-
-through the action of the lye and of oxidation. The fruit is next passed
-to the grader, which separates the various sizes. From the grader the
-three largest sizes are each delivered to a moving belt to be sorted for
-color, degree of ripeness, and culls, as the curing must be modified to
-suit the particular degree of ripeness, a crisp firm olive requiring a
-heavier treatment than does a riper, softer-textured one. The olives as
-sorted, are passed to small side belts, which thus deliver fruit uniform
-in size and color to the receiving boxes. Great care is taken in the
-sorting of olives, different varieties are not mixed, nor even fruit of
-the same variety but from different localities. In grading for size by
-machine, 1/16 of an inch is the variation between each size and the
-next; those less than 10/16 are removed to be used for other purposes.
-When the minimum is due to the variety and not to stunting, the fruit
-may be pickled, because aside from the larger proportion of pit, the
-flavor is equal to that of the large fruit. Usually the smaller olives
-were used for oil, but more recently are used for relishes and sauces.
-The sizes upon which the different grades are made are based upon the
-short diameter of the fruit, and have been adopted by the California
-Olive Association:
-
- Number Diam. in
- Grade per lb. inches
- Standard 120-135 10/16-11/16
- Medium 105-120 11/16
- Large 90-105 12/16
- Extra Large 75-90 13/16
- Mammoth 65-75 13.5/16
- Giant 55-65 14/16
- Jumbo 45-55 15/16
- Colossal 35-45 16/16
-
-The olives are placed in an alkaline solution, usually sodium hydrate as
-it is stronger in action than potassium hydrate. The strength varies
-with the different packers but is generally in the neighborhood of
-1-1/2%. After 6 to 8 hours, the lye is drawn off and the olives exposed
-to the air in order that they may oxidize and darken, since the lye
-removes some of the natural color. The operation is repeated with the
-same strength or less of lye solution and the fruit exposed to the air
-until examination of the pulp shows that the lye has penetrated to the
-pit. The lye solution is then replaced with clear water which is changed
-twice a day, until the lye and bitterness are removed, which requires
-from 4 to 8 days. The olives are then treated with brine solutions,
-starting with 1%, and increasing the strength at intervals of about 2
-days until about 4% is used, when they are ready to be put in glass jars
-or cans and sealed.
-
-The brine is used very weak at the start and gradually increased so that
-the osmotic action may be so controlled as not to cause the fruit to
-shrivel as it would if placed in a strong solution at the start. Some
-packers permit the olives to stay in the weak brine long enough for
-fermentation to take place as done with the imported green olives so as
-to develop an acid flavor. The more recent tendency, however, is toward
-packing them with the least possible change, and to depend upon the
-distinctive natural flavor of the fruit itself. A similar tendency
-toward retaining the natural color, rather than that induced by
-oxidation, might be advantageous.
-
-If it be the intent to hold the olives in bulk, they are treated with
-increasingly strong brines until 10
-
-[Illustration: Curing Vats]
-
-to 12-1/2% is used, the latter amount being required to carry them
-safely through the summer.
-
-The process is modified in practise to suit the conditions, as
-variations in varieties of fruit, in temperature, and in the lye have to
-be considered. There are also variations in practise due to individual
-experience. During the time the olives are in the various solutions they
-are stirred frequently, so as to change their position in the vats, and
-also to change the solution in contact with them. The stirring was, and
-is done yet in some cases, by hand, with wooden paddles, which is
-laborious besides causing more or less damage to the fruit. Recently
-compressed air has been piped to the vats and directed into the
-solutions with sufficient force to keep the olives agitated. This method
-is said to hasten the action of the lye solutions with consequent
-improvement in the fruit. It also obviates the drawing off the solutions
-and the exposure of the fruit to the air, as a certain amount of
-oxidation takes place in the solution.
-
-As the operators place the olives in the bottles or cans, the soft and
-defective ones are discarded. The containers are then filled with a 3%
-brine at a temperature of 175 or 180 degrees F. The air is exhausted,
-during which the temperature is raised to 185 degrees, and the
-containers sealed, after which they are processed. The large olives in a
-26 ounce glass jar are cooked for 50 minutes; extra large, 55 minutes;
-mammoth, 58 minutes; and colossal 60 minutes; at 240 degree F. in some
-factories, or for a longer period if processed at a lower temperature.
-
-The time required for heat to penetrate to the center of an olive is
-longer than has been generally supposed. This was determined by
-carefully drilling into the pit, first with a fine drill and then with
-increasingly larger ones, until an eighth inch hole was made. The bulb
-of a small thermometer was inserted, and to prevent heat being carried
-to the bulb by means of the glass stem, sections of olives were placed
-around the stem immediately above the olive being tested, and tied
-securely. Jumbo olives at room temperature placed directly in a boiling
-bath required on an average fourteen and one-half minutes for the
-temperature to reach 209 degrees F., which is practically the maximum
-which can be attained under the conditions. When the olive was placed in
-cold water and the bath heated rapidly under conditions similar to home
-canning, the average time required to reach 209 degrees F. was 29
-minutes. The former experiment represents a more favorable condition for
-heat penetration than prevails in factory operations, and the latter
-probably the least favorable, but both show that in the ordinary process
-all parts of the olive do not reach the high temperature supposed to be
-produced by that of the bath for more than a few minutes.
-
-At the University of California ripe olives have been canned without
-brine. After pickling, the olives have been placed in 3% brine for
-several days, then heated in the brine to about 180 degrees F. after
-which they are taken from the brine, put in the bottles or cans, sealed,
-and processed. No shrinking, wrinkling, softening, nor change in color
-is said to take place. By the elimination of the brine in the container,
-there results a saving in freight of 31.5% with cans and 16.6% with
-bottles.
-
-The history of the olive and its method of preparation show that no
-organisms pathogenic to man are normally present and that if such
-organisms be associated with it in any way, it must be from the outside
-and through local infection.
-
-More care is required in processing at high temperatures, than at
-boiling. A high internal pressure is developed inside the cans or jars,
-due to the expansion of the contents and of the enclosed gases, which
-has a tendency to loosen or blow off the covers. This tendency may be
-overcome by applying air or water pressure on the outside of the cans or
-jars to counteract that generated within. This is done while they are
-inside the retort and by means of automatic pressure controllers. There
-is no essential difference in the sterilizing and cooling of tin cans
-and glass jars, both forms of containers are responsive to treatment
-with high temperatures and both require proper care and handling. As
-with pickled olives, however, glass jars permit the purchaser to see the
-size and the condition of the fruit.
-
-The canning of ripe olives in California was originated by F. T.
-Bioletti, zymologist in the University of California, and came about
-through an
-
-[Illustration: Packing Olives in Jars]
-
-investigation in 1889 on the spoiling of olives. When pickled olives
-were held, the quality deteriorated in some of them, they softened
-during the summer, and seldom remained in an edible condition for a
-year. As a result of his experiments on methods of keeping, he found
-that the olives could be sterilized in sealed containers and be kept in
-edible condition indefinitely. The commercial application of the method
-and the popularizing of the ripe olive is due to Mrs. Freda Ehmann, a
-pioneer olive grower, who applied scientific methods, with marked
-success, to both the development and canning of the olive.
-
-The sustained scientific work along developmental and preserving lines
-in this country, has been done mainly by Wickson, Bioletti, and Cruess
-of the state university staff to whom great credit is due for the
-advancement made. Many improvements have naturally been made by
-manufacturers in the preparation of the ripe olive but are held by the
-factories for their own use solely.
-
-Recently Cruess has developed methods for treating the ripe olive with
-aerated hot solutions which have permitted the preliminary treatments to
-be done in 3 to 6 days, instead of as formerly in 3 to 6 weeks. The
-methods promise to be of great economic value, and have been patented
-for the benefit of the public.
-
-The olives which are too small or misshapen to be used in the regular
-pack are sometimes used for other purposes besides oil extraction in
-which size and appearance are not factors. The flesh is ground and
-seasoned and thus furnishes a mixture for relishes and sandwich filling,
-or the flesh is mixed with pickled cucumbers, capers, pimiento, tomato,
-etc., in various combinations for the same purposes or to flavor sauces.
-The appetizing ways in which olives may be used alone or in combination,
-and the attractive dishes which can be prepared from them are endless.
-
-A preparation which has considerable vogue with lovers of ripe olives is
-to take the olives from the brine some hours before using and cover
-them with olive oil. This preparation may be further enhanced by rubbing
-the dish before using, with a cut clove of garlic. The use of aromatics
-in the preliminary preparation, then packing in oil, as done by the
-Greeks, Italians, and Spaniards, with some of their best olives, produce
-very fine products that are far ahead, in both flavor and food value, of
-the ordinary preparations.
-
-The olive, though used almost exclusively as a relish or appetizer in
-this country, is a valuable food. This is true for both the green and
-the ripe, the difference in the two not being so great as is frequently
-claimed. The pickled green olive has supplanted the cucumber pickle to a
-very considerable extent in the trade. The canned ripe olive is
-distinctive and depends upon an entirely different quality for its
-favor. As long as the present prices prevail, they can not be considered
-on the basis of staples or in competition with many other foods in
-furnishing nutritive elements.
-
-The flesh of the American olive consists of about 80 per cent of the
-fruit, and of this the solids average 38 per cent, oil 25 per cent, and
-protein 1.2 per cent.
-
-In spite of the fact that olives have been used as a food from time
-immemorial, very little systematic analytic work seems to have been done
-on the whole fruit in the various stages of maturity and in determining
-the effect of the various treatments for the removal of the bitterness.
-Much of the analytic work has been devoted to analyses of the oil and
-to methods for determining adulteration. The methods followed in this
-country and abroad are not the same and the results are therefore not
-comparable. It seems strange that so old and so commercially important a
-fruit has not been investigated to the minutest detail.
-
-It is stated that the olive on reaching full size increases in weight
-and oil content as it matures, the various stages being approximately
-determined by the change in color from green to yellow, red, and finally
-black. When, however, one finds analyses of typical fruit of one variety
-and from the same place which show the flesh of the green olive to
-contain 23.55 per cent; yellowish green, 20.37 per cent; red, 27.35 per
-cent; and purple to black, 24.89 per cent oil, it discounts the color
-value. Other available analyses show similar discrepancies between the
-chemical composition and the color test as indicative of maturity.
-Variation in composition occurs in the same variety of fruit grown in
-different places as well as in the different varieties and, as with
-other fruits, one is dependent upon the skill of the packer in selecting
-raw stock and in handling it in the process of manufacture, for the
-quality of the article received. It is only natural to expect that a
-product containing so much oil and subjected to the action of lye, might
-be greatly changed during its preparation. The data available, however,
-does not sustain this premise, but shows that very little change
-actually takes place.
-
-
-
-
-LITERATURE
-
-
-Andran, H. M.==>Les conserves des petits menages.
-
-Armstrong, E. F.==>The simple carbohydrates and the glucosides, 1912.
-
-D’Aygalliers, P. D.==>L’olivier et l’huile d’olive, 1900.
-
-Bourquelot, Em. and Vintilesco, J.==>Compt. Rend. _147_, 533, 535,
-1908.
-
-Buckland, A. W.==>Our viands, 1893.
-
-Chalmers, T. W.==>The reduction and treatment of vegetable oils, 1918.
-
-Coupin, Henri==>La conservation des fruits, des lugumes, des graines.
-
-Cruess, Wm. V.==>Home and farm food preservation, 1918.
-
-Gracey, Wilbur T.==>Olive growing in Spain. Special consular report,
-No. 79, Dept. of Com., 1918.
-
-Green, Mary E.==>Food products of the world, 1895.
-
-Haas, Paul and Hill, T. G.==>Chemistry of plant products, 1913.
-
-Hilts, R. W.==>Chemical study of the ripening and pickling of
-California olives. Bul. 803, Bu. of Chem., Dept. of Agr., 1920.
-
-Lemery, L., Translation by Hay, D.==>Treatise of all sorts of food,
-1745.
-
-Loudon, J. C.==>Loudon’s encyclopedia of plants, 1866.
-
-Martyn, Charles==>Foods and culinary utensils of the ancients.
-
-Mason, Charlotte==>The lady’s assistant, 1778.
-
-Pellerin, G.==>Guide pratique de l’expert chimiste, 1910.
-
-de Savigny, G. B.==>Conserves, salaisons, et confitures de menage,
-1909.
-
-Thudichum, J. L. W.==>Cookery, its art and practice, 1895.
-
-Wickson, E. J.==>California fruits, 1910.
-
-Willis, Oliver R.==>Practical flora, 1894.
-
-==>Fig and Olive Journal, vo. 4, No. 11, Apr. 1920.
-
-==>Seal of safety, 1915.
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Olive, by K. G. Bitting
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-<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="332" height="498"
-alt="[Image of the book's cover unavailable]" title="" />
-</div>
-
-<h1>THE OLIVE</h1>
-<p class="c"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_001" id="page_001"></a>{1}</span>
-<br />BY<br />
-<big>K. G. BITTING, M.S.</big>,<br /><br />
-BACTERIOLOGIST,<br /><br />
-GLASS CONTAINER ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA<br /><br />
-&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;<br /><br />
-THE RESEARCH LABORATORY,<br />
-GLASS CONTAINER ASSOCIATION<br />
-OF AMERICA,<br />
-3344 S. MICHIGAN AVENUE,<br />
-CHICAGO, ILL.<br />
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_002" id="page_002"></a>{2}</span>
-<span class="smcap">Copyright, 1920</span><br />
-<span class="smcap">Glass Container Association of America</span>
-</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_003" id="page_003"></a>{3}</span>&nbsp; </p>
-
-<h1>OLIVES</h1>
-
-<p class="c"><i>Olea europaea</i> L.</p>
-
-<p>There is no tree nor fruit which offers more in interest than the olive
-tree and its fruit. To obtain anything approaching an idea of its
-many-sidedness, it is necessary to become acquainted with the life and
-legends of ancient peoples, in which it entered as sustenance and as
-symbol; to know something of art, as the olive has furnished the motif
-for much decoration, both symbolic and purely esthetic; to know
-something of botany and horticulture, to appreciate its parts and to
-understand their structure and development; something of chemistry and
-physics, to understand its various constituents and their intelligent
-treatment; something of the culinary art, to understand its value and
-its varied uses as a food and condiment; of medicine, to appreciate the
-many virtues ascribed to it as a healing agent; and of cosmetics, to
-believe all that is claimed for it as a cleanser and beautifier. Each
-phase offers many fascinating possibilities, revealed through the most
-ancient as well as the most recent literature, for with time the olive
-has gained both in interest and value.</p>
-
-<h3>Origin</h3>
-
-<p>The olive according to De Candolle has been cultivated for more than
-4,000 years, probably the longest period for any tree. Its early history
-is known only through ancient literature, and ancient remains<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_004" id="page_004"></a>{4}</span> in which
-it served either as decoration or as a constituent. Through these its
-original home has been traced to Asia Minor, a region originally
-extending from Syria to Greece. That it grew on Mt. Ararat and was the
-harbinger to Noah of the recession of the flood is told in Genesis&mdash;“and
-the dove came in to him in the evening, and, lo, in her mouth was an
-olive leaf pluckt off.”</p>
-
-<p>The ancient Egyptians as a part of the fruit of their conquests obtained
-the olive during the 19th dynasty. Mummies, dating from the 20th to the
-26th dynasty, have been found surrounded by garlands of olive leaves.
-From Egypt it spread into northern Africa. It is said to have been taken
-to Greece by Cecrops, the founder of Athens. The legend states that in
-the reign of Cecrops both Poseidon and Athena contended for the
-possession of Athens. The gods resolved that whichever of them produced
-a gift most useful to mortals should have possession. Poseidon struck
-the ground with his trident and straightway a horse appeared. Athena
-then planted the olive. The gods gave the city to the goddess from whom
-it was called Athenae.</p>
-
-<p>Pindar says that all the slopes of Olympus were soon covered with it,
-and that the Athenians used to crown the victors in the Olympian games
-with its branches. Later it was used to crown their warriors and wise
-citizens. The method of oil extraction was also obtained from outside.
-The Greeks are supposed to have had the wild olive, Oleaster,
-previously, but the fruit of this is valueless. They are the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_005" id="page_005"></a>{5}</span> first
-European people to have cultivated the olive. Its cultivation spread to
-the surrounding countries, where the Greeks founded colonies, Sicily,
-the coast of Italy, and Gaul, these forming nuclei for its spread into
-the adjacent lands. Pliny states, however, that the olive was not
-introduced into Italy until 627 B.C., and that it reappeared in Gaul in
-600 B.C., being carried to the latter country by the Phenician colony
-that founded Marseilles.</p>
-
-<p>The olive was carried later by the Romans into the countries in which
-they settled, Spain being the most notable, but it was also carried into
-the Iberian peninsula by the Arabs.</p>
-
-<p>The Greeks and the Romans cultivated it on the northern side of the
-Mediterranean, the Tyrians on the southern side, the Arabs finding it
-there and carrying it with them into Spain when they settled in that
-country. The double origin of the olive, Greco-Roman and Semitic, in
-this latter country is borne out by the names bestowed on the olive. In
-southern Spain the tree is called <i>aceituno</i>, the olive fruit
-<i>aceituna</i>, and the oil <i>aceite</i>, the name evidently derived from the
-Arabic name <i>zeitoun</i>, this in turn being derived from the Hebrew
-<i>zeit</i>. In northern Spain both Arabic and Latin names are used, the tree
-is called <i>olivo</i> or <i>oliveira</i>, whereas the fruit and oil have the
-Arabic derivative names <i>aceituna</i> and <i>aceite</i> respectively, but the
-oil used in the church and in painting is called <i>oleo</i>. In Portugal
-similar conditions prevail, the cultivated olive is called by the
-Greco-Latin name <i>oliveira</i>, whereas the wild olive is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_006" id="page_006"></a>{6}</span> called by the
-Arabic name <i>zambugeiro</i>, the fruit <i>azeitona</i>, and the oil <i>azeite</i>.</p>
-
-<p>Though some botanists claim that the olive is native to the Canary
-Islands, no word for it is found in the remains of the language of the
-Guanches, an ancient, but extinct, race of people who inhabited the
-islands. The available records show the tree to have been introduced
-there since 1403, and probably by the Phenicians.</p>
-
-<p>The olive was introduced by the Spaniards into Chili, Peru, Mexico, and
-the United States. From Mexico it was brought by Jesuit missionaries
-into Lower California, the first settlement being at Loreto, in 1697.
-The Jesuits founded fifteen missions, but were superseded by Franciscans
-in 1768. These latter proceeded northward to extend their work, the
-first of their missions being founded in 1769, at San Diego. The secular
-head of the mission, representing the King of Spain, had the foresight
-to carry the seeds of flowers, fruits, grains, and vegetables, so that
-flourishing gardens were soon brought into existence. When the missions
-went into secular hands in 1843, the gardens in many cases were
-neglected and many of the fruit trees died. The olive was one of the
-trees that withstood the neglect and was afterwards used for cuttings by
-the emigrants from the eastern states who came in 1849. From this time
-on the olive has received considerable attention, many experiments being
-made in its culture, and in recent years the plantings have increased to
-an enormous extent, due to the favor accorded to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a>{7}</span> both the oil and the
-fruit. It has spread around San Diego and Los Angeles east into the San
-Joaquin Valley and north into the Sacramento Valley in California, and
-also into Arizona. In the latter state its cultivation is comparatively
-recent, so that only about 5 per cent of American olives are produced
-there.</p>
-
-<p>At the present time the olive is cultivated more or less extensively in
-the countries surrounding the Mediterranean&mdash;Asia Minor, Turkey, Greece,
-Italy, Austria, France, Spain, Portugal, Tunis, and Algeria. In the
-Western Hemisphere the main source is California, though the olive is
-cultivated in some of the countries of S. America.</p>
-
-<h3>Duration</h3>
-
-<p>The olive tree is of slow growth, but if allowed to grow naturally, it
-persists for centuries and attains a great size. De Candolle describes
-one tree 23 feet in circumference, its age supposed to be over 700
-years. Tournefort found fruitful old olive trees between Ephesus and
-Smyrna which must have been planted before the Mussulman invasion, as
-Turks had not planted olives, not esteeming them. The Mount of Olives on
-the east side of Jerusalem was among the places best cultivated. Near
-its foot was the grove called Gethsemane (Gath-Semen, oil press) because
-of the olives with which it was covered and those of the slopes above
-where an abundance of oil was pressed out. In the Garden of Gethsemane
-there remain only eight of these olive trees that are supposed to have
-existed at the beginning of the Christian<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_008" id="page_008"></a>{8}</span> era. Chateaubriand, writing
-in the early part of the nineteenth century of these olive trees, said,
-“one sees there eight olive trees in extreme decrepitude.” An article
-written recently by J. D. Whiting, American Vice-Consul at Jerusalem,
-had an interesting statement relative to one of these trees. “El Butini,
-the most famous of the Garden of Gethsemane’s eight olive trees, under
-which the Savior is supposed to have walked during the night of agony,
-has recently collapsed. The great tree was weakened by the locust plague
-during the spring and summer of 1915. When El Butini falls, then falls
-the Turk, runs the legend.”</p>
-
-<p>Throughout Europe and Asia are many old olive trees, some of them
-producing abundantly, their origin, however, lost in remote centuries.
-The olive is very tenacious of life, but the methods of cultivation,
-which tend to increase production, reduce resistance and diminish its
-duration of life.</p>
-
-<h3>Etymology</h3>
-
-<p>The generic name <i>Olea</i> is from the Greek <i>elaia</i>, derived from the
-Celtic or Gothic <i>olew</i>, oil, on account of the abundance of oil in the
-fruit. The specific name <i>europaea</i> is given to the species cultivated
-throughout Europe.</p>
-
-<p>The olive has been given fanciful names by the early peoples. It was
-known as the “tree of wisdom,” “Minerva’s tree,” the “Gift of Heaven,”
-etc. The Greeks consecrated the tree to Minerva, and made it the symbol
-of wisdom, abundance, and peace.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_009" id="page_009"></a>{9}</span></p>
-
-<h3>Description</h3>
-
-<p>The olive is an evergreen tree about 20 to 30 feet high, much branched
-and spreading. It forms a symmetrical head, having angular branches and
-opposite leaves. The leaves are dry and leathery in texture, lanceolate,
-entire, deep green above, and light hoary beneath. The flowers are
-small, star-shaped, creamy white with yellow centers, have a faint
-pleasing odor, and are axillary in compact racemes. The fruit, a fleshy
-pendulous drupe, is very abundant. It is oval, obovate, or globular in
-shape, about the size of a pigeon’s egg, dull greenish yellow even when
-full size but unripe, then gradually becomes yellow, red, and finally
-turns a glossy purplish black or black when ripe. In ripening, the side
-exposed to the sun reddens, then gradually the whole fruit changes from
-red to purple, then black. As fruit of all degrees of ripeness are
-developed at the same time, the tree furnishes an extremely beautiful
-combination of colors, the various greens of the leaf and fruits forming
-a background for the splotches of red, purple, and black formed by the
-ripening fruit. The fruit is peculiar in two respects, first, in that it
-contains in addition to the ordinary constituents of fruits an abundance
-of edible oil, consequently making it a valuable food; second in that it
-contains a bitter substance which does not disappear on maturity, so
-that the fruit cannot be eaten at any stage in its development without
-preliminary treatment for the elimination of this substance. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_010" id="page_010"></a>{10}</span> stone
-is two-celled, many times only one seed developing.</p>
-
-<h3>Climatic Requirements</h3>
-
-<p>The olive requires rather warm temperature, light humidity, and absence
-of heavy frosts. It can withstand temperatures of -7 to -8 degrees C. or
-even lower if not too prolonged, and if the change to higher temperature
-be gradual. Moist cold is more unfavorable than dry. The altitude at
-which it will grow depends on the local climate. The climate of the
-countries bordering on the Mediterranean and that of California are
-particularly favorable.</p>
-
-<h3>Varieties</h3>
-
-<p>The wild olive Oleaster is said to have been the original form, called
-by Linnaeus <i>Olea europaea sylvestris</i>, later by De Candolle <i>Olea
-europaea oleaster</i> and the cultivated form <i>Olea europaea sativa</i>. The
-reason for this belief is said to be the <i>oleaster</i> seeds reproduce
-trees true to type, whereas the seeds of <i>sativa</i> produce trees having
-the characteristics of <i>oleaster</i> but, though <i>oleaster</i> under
-cultivation becomes modified in various ways, it does not produce fruit
-like <i>sativa</i>. Whichever form was the original, the subjection to
-cultivation for over 4,000 years, under the varying conditions of soil,
-climate, and methods of cultivation, has produced many varieties. Many
-of these doubtless are the result of accidental modifications, more or
-less fixed by successive cultivations. At the present time there are
-certain well-defined varieties which are cultivated,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_011" id="page_011"></a>{11}</span> and of which the
-characteristics are well known, so that varieties may be selected
-according to the purpose desired, whether for the preservation of the
-fruit green, half ripe, or ripe, or for extraction of oil.</p>
-
-<p>Of the large number of varieties introduced into California, Wickson
-reports analyses made by the State university on 57 varieties. Of these
-only a comparatively few were retained as worthy of cultivation, chief
-among these being the Mission olive, the one planted originally in
-California in the old mission gardens. Wickson states there are several
-sub-varieties of this form.</p>
-
-<h3>Propagation</h3>
-
-<p>The olive is propagated by means of seeds, cuttings, grafting, and
-budding. Propagation by seeds is seldom done in this country, as it is
-so much slower and more troublesome than by cuttings, aside from the
-fact that the desired variety may not result. The pulp has to be
-removed, which is done usually by allowing the fruit to rot or by
-softening with an alkali. Unless removed from the stone, the seed may
-not develop for two years, otherwise the seed usually sprouts the first
-year.</p>
-
-<p>Propagation by cuttings is the commonest and easiest method, as the
-cuttings root readily, and either old or new wood may be used so that
-the cuttings may be large or small. Cuttings sent from Europe are
-usually in the form of truncheons, and these may be cut into pieces like
-firewood and will root.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_012" id="page_012"></a>{12}</span></p>
-
-<p>The story is told of a grove in Morocco in which the trees exhibited a
-peculiar arrangement. The reason given for this was that a king and his
-army on the way to the Sudan had encamped for the night, and stakes or
-pickets to tie the horses had been cut from a grove near by. The pickets
-were left and had developed into trees. This seems probable enough when
-it is considered that pieces of branches are taken, one end whittled to
-a sharp point and driven into the ground, and that these pieces will
-take root and develop. An olive company in California has recently
-transferred 3000 trees, 26 years old, from San Joaquin County to
-Oroville and Marysville. The trunks were sawed off about 18 inches above
-the ground, and the roots 12 inches from the stump. In a planting made 6
-years previously the same method was used and resulted successfully.</p>
-
-<p>Where trees are found undesirable for some reason, resort is had to
-budding or grafting. By these means the undesirable trees are not a
-complete loss, and results are obtained sooner. Many times varieties are
-obtained from Europe which on developing are not found suited to the
-conditions in this country; these plants may be used as stock for
-desirable varieties or some desirable variety is obtained which may be
-propagated rapidly by these means.</p>
-
-<p>The pruning must be done by persons of understanding, as the fruit is
-borne only on the two-year portion of the branches, and provision must
-be made<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_013" id="page_013"></a>{13}</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i_013_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_013_sml.jpg" width="338" height="450" alt="[Image unavailable: Gathering Olives]" title="Gathering Olives" /></a>
-<br />
-<span class="caption">Gathering Olives</span>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_014" id="page_014"></a>{14}</span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">to cut excessive growth in the season of too heavy development and
-stimulate in the season of poor development. The pruning thus regulates
-the growth of the branches which two years later will control the
-production of the fruit.</p>
-
-<p>Pruning of very large branches is sometimes done to admit more light and
-heat to the darker, cooler parts of the tree. The small branches thus
-provided in turn furnish nursery stock. Pruning is done in late winter
-and early spring. From March to October no pruning is done, but the
-trees are carefully tended through cultivation, irrigation, and
-fertilization.</p>
-
-<p>In California the young stock is set out in the groves in April, and
-about 35 feet apart. During the non-bearing period, the land between,
-which like all California groves, is kept in good cultivation and free
-from weeds, is utilized frequently for other crops.</p>
-
-<p>Though numerous stories are written of the remarkable ability of the
-olive tree to grow and bear in exposed situations, and with only small
-amounts of soil and water, the olive, like all other fruit trees,
-requires both cultivation and an adequate amount of water if a constant
-and abundant harvest be desired. As the groves are irrigated, the proper
-amount of water may be supplied at all times. The water is conducted
-through a system of underground pipes, which are provided with outlets
-at the end of each row of trees. From these outlets the water is
-directed into furrows to water the trees.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_015" id="page_015"></a>{15}</span> As the irrigation is
-conducted by underground pipes, the groves are easily cultivated.</p>
-
-<h3>Products</h3>
-
-<p>It would seem that the olive is rightly and appropriately called the
-“Tree of Abundance,” for all parts of it have been used, and to the
-ancients, even with their limited cuisine as compared with that of
-today, it was a symbol of plenty, witness the apostrophe of King
-Sennacherib, made centuries before the Christian era, who called Assyria
-“A land of corn and wine; a land of bread and vineyards; a land of oil,
-olives, and honey.”</p>
-
-<h4>FLOWERS</h4>
-
-<p>In ancient medicine the blossoms of the olive were highly esteemed, but
-are not mentioned in the medicine of today. They were used as poultices
-to alleviate pain, sometimes alone, sometimes mixed with other
-substances.</p>
-
-<h4>LEAVES</h4>
-
-<p>The leaves were also used in medicine, a decoction made from them being
-said to stop bleeding, and on account of their astringency to reduce
-inflammation. The leaves and bark have an acrid and bitter taste, and
-have been prescribed as substitutes for cinchona. In France an extract
-of the leaves is used as a febrifuge, and has also been found valuable
-in preventing hectic paroxysms.</p>
-
-<p>From time immemorial the leaf and branch have been employed as a symbol
-of peace, and have appeared in sculpture and painting. No more
-beautiful<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a>{16}</span> emblem than the olive branch can be selected or devised to
-symbolize both peace and victory, and as such has been known through all
-the ages. Egyptian mummies, dating from the 20th to the 26th dynasty,
-have been found surrounded by garlands of olive leaves, and the tomb of
-the hero of today will oftentimes have its sculptured olive branch,
-telling its story and making its appeal stronger than could be made by
-words.</p>
-
-<p>Besides serving for esthetic purposes, the leaves, in spite of their
-astringency, are eaten by animals as forage, so that the trees have to
-be protected from them. It is curious that with all the ravages made by
-animals on the olive trees in the neglected mission gardens in
-California, after the missionaries had gone, some of these same trees
-furnished scions for many of the olive groves of today.</p>
-
-<h4>WOOD</h4>
-
-<p>The wood of the olive tree is much prized for certain purposes. It is
-very close, fine-grained, yellow to yellowish brown with irregular wavy
-brown to black lines and mottlings, especially near the root. It has no
-distinguishable annual rings or pith rays, and has evenly distributed
-vessels. It takes a beautiful polish. At present it is employed chiefly
-in lathe-work and carving for small fancy articles, and for cabinet
-work.</p>
-
-<p>In ancient times it seems to have had a much wider application, due no
-doubt to the size of the trees, which were larger as a result of not
-being<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_017" id="page_017"></a>{17}</span> subjected to the rigorous cultivation and pruning which they
-receive today. The Bible states that olive wood was used in the Temple.
-In the time of Pliny it furnished material for construction of ships,
-for wagon spokes, wedges, columns, pedestals, statues, and furniture.
-The Romans used both the wild and cultivated trees. The wood industry
-was developed in the vicinity of Nice in both France and Italy, and
-still flourishes. A considerable amount has been exported to England in
-recent years for the manufacture of walking sticks. The poorer quality
-is used for firewood, is inflammable, and produces great heat.</p>
-
-<h4>BARK</h4>
-
-<p>The bark contains a large amount of tannin. For medicinal purposes it is
-reduced to powder and acts as an astringent, a tonic, and a febrifuge.
-In warm climates a resin is exuded from it which solidifies in the air.
-It is called Lecca gum, as it was first found near Lecca. It contains
-some benzoic acid among other constituents and in ancient times was
-prescribed in medicine, but is not at present, and the gum is considered
-valueless.</p>
-
-<h4>FRUIT</h4>
-
-<p>The fruit has been considered a choice food at all times. It has
-appeared at the feasts of epicures, both ancient and modern, as a
-relish, and to be eaten at the end of the repast as part of the dessert,
-and at all times it has also furnished a staple food for the poor in the
-Orient and in Greek and Latin<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_018" id="page_018"></a>{18}</span> countries. Those who were well provided
-were admonished to have care for those less fortunate: “When thou
-beatest thine olive tree, thou shalt not go over the boughs again; it
-shall be for the stranger, for the fatherless, and for the widow.”
-(Deuteronomy XXIV., 20.) The people obliged to live frugally have found
-it a great resource, particularly in Lent and for those at a distance
-from the sea unable to obtain fresh fish. It is said that Plato
-preferred olives to all other foods, and often made a meal on them
-alone.</p>
-
-<p>Though olives are known and consumed throughout the civilized world,
-comparatively few persons, aside from those living in the regions of
-their cultivation, know that olives have to undergo certain treatment
-before they can be eaten. It is a common practise in olive regions to
-encourage the visitor to taste the fruit directly from the tree. The
-fruit, both green and black, looks so fine and tempting, that the
-disgust on tasting is correspondingly great. It is claimed that some of
-the older varieties could be eaten without preparation, that they dried
-naturally, and were sweet like raisins.</p>
-
-<p>The olive contains a bitter and acrid substance or substances which must
-be removed before the olives are edible. It is referred to in most of
-the literature as a “bitter principle”, and has been called an acid, a
-tannin, and more recently a glucoside. Cruess has repeated the work of
-the various investigators, who claimed these different substances, and
-as a result has come to the conclusion that it is a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_019" id="page_019"></a>{19}</span> glucoside, that is,
-a combination of glucose with another compound.</p>
-
-<p>In immature fleshy fruits there is usually an accumulation of acids,
-tannins, and sometimes starch. As ripening proceeds, carbohydrates and
-aromatic substances are formed, and the bitter, acrid, or astringent
-taste disappears. In the olive there is no starch found at any stage of
-maturity. Glucose has been found in all stages, and is supposed to be
-the substance from which the oil is formed. The oil is in very minute
-quantities in the fruit up to the time when the pit is formed, from then
-on it increases gradually up to its maximum when the fruit is not quite
-mature. In the plant economy the fat or oil is one of the most important
-food reserves of plants. All parts of the fruit&mdash;rind, flesh, stone, and
-seed&mdash;contain oil, the fleshy part, forming about 80% of the fruit,
-containing the largest amount.</p>
-
-<p>Contrary to the condition existing in most fruits, the bitterness
-remains through all stages of development in the olive. A substance of
-glucosidic nature, given the name “oleuropeine”, has been isolated, and
-found to be of extreme bitterness. This may be the substance or one of
-the substances which cause the inedibility of the untreated olive.</p>
-
-<p>The oil is the most important constituent of the fruit on account of its
-high food value and its use in the industries. It is used to a large
-extent in cold countries and also in dry countries where there are few
-cattle, the oil taking in the various culinary operations, the place of
-butter and other fats.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_020" id="page_020"></a>{20}</span></p>
-
-<p>Among the ancient Jews the oil was considered indispensable and as
-necessary as bread. An abundance of oil was looked upon as a blessing
-from God. Vast public storehouses were constructed to hold it for the
-scarce years. To the Greeks the three indispensable foods were oil,
-grains, and wine, the oil entering into most of their dishes. The Romans
-had a large trade in the oil, and it was also used, to a large extent,
-in their domestic cooking. In Italy and Spain street vendors fry
-fritters in the oil and sell them while hot. It has considerable use in
-conserving fish, particularly sardines. The higher grades of French,
-Spanish, Norwegian, and American sardines are packed in olive oil. This
-use has been extended in recent years to the packing of tuna fish.</p>
-
-<p>Olive oil occupies a high position as a vegetable fat. Many others have
-been prepared and offered as substitutes, and if judged by chemical
-composition alone, give practically equal food value, but are lacking in
-the delicious flavor which makes olive oil distinctive and gives it a
-superiority over all other oils.</p>
-
-<p>The oil is a large factor in the industries; it serves as an extractive
-of perfumes, as a constituent of fine, smooth soaps, and as a lubricant
-in watch factories. Formerly the lower grades were used commonly for
-lubricating purposes, but with improved methods of clarifying and the
-greater expense attendant on its use, it has been superseded by cheaper
-lubricants.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_021" id="page_021"></a>{21}</span></p>
-
-<p>An enormous quantity has been and is still used in religious ceremonies,
-in the ordinations of the clergy and rulers, and anointing in the
-sacraments, besides by old world peoples generally in the lamps in the
-churches and temples, many of which are kept burning continually. An
-idea of the vast amount consumed for this purpose can be obtained from
-the fact that in one mosque alone there are 1,200 lamps burning
-constantly, and requiring about 25,000 kilos of oil annually.</p>
-
-<p>In medicine it has been and is still used extensively. The ancients
-rubbed it on their bodies to make the muscles supple and to cleanse and
-protect the skin, particularly after bathing, and it still functions for
-these purposes. It was used to heal wounds, in liniments, and as a mild
-laxative. At present it is a constituent of liniments, ointments,
-cerates, and plasters. The people who are habitual patrons of the olive
-and its oil are noted for their smooth, beautiful complexions. It is
-said “the warm rosy complexion of the Italian and Sicilian women is due
-to the free use of olive oil as much as to the air and climate of their
-country.”</p>
-
-<p>The residue or marc which remains after the oil is extracted is used as
-a food for sheep and hogs, for fertilizer, and for fuel, and there is
-obtained from it a clear, illuminating gas.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_022" id="page_022"></a>{22}</span></p>
-
-<h2><a name="PREPARATION_OF_FRUIT" id="PREPARATION_OF_FRUIT"></a>PREPARATION OF FRUIT</h2>
-
-<h3>Foreign</h3>
-
-<p>In the early preparation of olives in order to remove the bitterness,
-they were soaked in water, which was renewed from time to time,
-sometimes hot water being used. The olives, after draining, were then
-held in brine. The green olives as well as the mature and black were
-used.</p>
-
-<p>The Romans exercised the greatest care in their preparation, and
-introduced refinements, by not only removing the bitterness, but by
-causing them to acquire various flavors through infusion in solutions
-containing aromatic substances.</p>
-
-<p>One of their methods for the preparation of green olives consisted in
-adding roasted salt to the olives after a preliminary soaking in hot
-water, then covering them with grape must, boiled wine, or honey water,
-and to this solution were added fennel, mint, and lentiscus seed. Fennel
-was used as a tampon to keep the olives immersed. A simpler method was
-to use vinegar with the brine. Sometimes the olives were beaten to
-facilitate the action, but this caused discoloration, which was avoided
-by making cuts in them. The brine was replaced by oil as a preserving
-liquid. Another method was to put the olives with the aromatics in the
-brine at the start, then they were removed, crushed lightly, and put in
-a mixture of oil, vinegar, and honey, to which were added leek, celery,
-mint, and sometimes rue. The rue was supposed to be most efficacious in
-bringing out the natural flavor, and was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_023" id="page_023"></a>{23}</span> most prized. The mature olives
-were first put in brine for 30 to 40 days, then put in the preserving
-liquid with the aromatics. Olives prepared in the ways indicated were
-known as “Colymbades”.</p>
-
-<p>A form of conserve made by the ancients, and to which the name
-“Epityrum” was given, consisted in taking green, mature, or black fruit,
-though, as in the former, the green were preferred, and drying them in
-the shade, after which they were put in baskets, and crushed in a press.
-The crushed fruit was then put in vessels, sprinkled with salt, and had
-mixed with it lentiscus seed and minced leaves of fennel and rue, and
-was finally covered with oil.</p>
-
-<p>Many recipes have been left by the ancients, the preparations varying as
-to time, strength of solutions, mixtures of spices, etc. To the recipes
-of Palladius (1518-1580) is owed the knowledge that the Romans were
-cognizant of and used lye solutions, though this is supposed to be a
-modern practise. In this particular recipe sifted ashes are indicated as
-one of the ingredients, and it is supposed that this recipe, changed in
-detail, furnished the basis for present day methods. The use of wood
-ashes was introduced into France by an Italian refugee named Picholini,
-who settled in Provence, devoting himself to the preparation and sale of
-preserved olives. The olives preserved according to his process are
-called “olives a la Picholine”. Previous to his time the preparation in
-southern France consisted of crushing the olives lightly, immersing in
-clear water, which was renewed each<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a>{24}</span> day for about nine days, then
-preserving in brine. This latter process is still employed for the
-olives in which appearance is not an asset. For the more carefully
-prepared ones, the method was to pick by hand when the olives had
-attained full development, then they were carefully sorted, and immersed
-in lye, the duration in the lye depending on the size of the fruit, and
-the concentration of the lye. They were removed from the lye when the
-flesh was penetrated to, and readily detached from, the stone.</p>
-
-<p>There are many variations of the lye treatment. In the olive countries
-the preparation is done in the homes as well as in factories, and it is
-in the homes, naturally, that the greatest variations occur. Lime is
-often used with the ashes, one formula consisting of the olives mixed
-with a paste of wood ashes and freshly slaked lime. In the ordinary
-methods, however, a solution is made of the sifted ashes and lime,
-sometimes sodium carbonate taking the place of the ashes. In the
-ordinary factory preparations both ashes and lime are omitted, and
-either caustic soda or potash used. When removed from the lye, the
-olives are put in clear water, changed night and morning for three or
-four days, then put in brine.</p>
-
-<p>The early accounts of olive preparation show quite conclusively that
-great variation in strength of the caustic solution was inevitable, but
-fortunately the tendency to err was on the weaker side. It was not until
-the modern introduction of caustic<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_025" id="page_025"></a>{25}</span> preparations of soda and potash that
-standardization of the process was possible. Even with this possibility
-the practise remains largely empirical and is based upon the experience
-of the operator. Some still adhere to the use of weak solutions, taking
-considerable time to act upon the olive, whereas others use relatively
-strong solutions so as to hasten the process.</p>
-
-<p>The brine used has been subject to quite as marked variation as the lye.
-A weak brine has been used in order to encourage the natural
-fermentation of the fruit, which corresponds to the fermentation in our
-cucumber pickles. The other extreme is represented by the use of a very
-strong brine which practically inhibited all fermentative change and
-this same brine was filtered and used a succeeding season. Every
-gradation between these extremes has been in common use. As might be
-expected, more or less of the fruit softened and underwent changes which
-at present would be regarded as decomposition or rotting rather than as
-clean, normal fermentation. The esthetic side of olive preparation has
-not always been of the highest order, though, as in the case of many
-other foods, very great improvement has been wrought in recent years.</p>
-
-<p>Even with the later methods the use of aromatic substances has not been
-abandoned, and many of these are used, such as bay leaves, cloves,
-coriander, cumin, mint, orange skin, fennel, etc., the amounts and
-combinations varying greatly. Sometimes the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_026" id="page_026"></a>{26}</span> aromatics are first
-extracted, the solution concentrated, and a quantity of this solution
-added to the brine, or they are boiled in the brine at the start, then
-removed, and when the brine is cooled, it is ready for use.</p>
-
-<p>In Spain the ripe olives are not treated ordinarily with lye, but by the
-slower process of soaking in water. The black olives, gathered late in
-the year, are cured in a salt brine to which black pepper is added.
-After the bitterness is removed, they are preserved in oil.</p>
-
-<p>A process used at present for ripe olives which is very simple but
-effective, is to mix fine salt with them after they have been cleaned
-and sorted. They are stirred twice a day, and through the osmotic action
-of the salt, a dark-colored juice is exuded which contains, among other
-constituents, the substance causing the bitterness. To hasten the action
-the olives are pierced with a needle. The Spaniards vary this method by
-adding aromatics, as wild marjoram, thyme, fennel seed, anise seed,
-garlic, laurel leaves, etc., at the same time as the salt. The special
-spice mixtures are held as trade secrets by the manufacturers.</p>
-
-<p>When the bitterness has been removed, the olives are washed, dried
-lightly, and placed in casks or jars until required. Before being served
-the olives are soaked in oil.</p>
-
-<p>One style of Greek packing of ripe olives is of special excellence. Sour
-wine is added to the pickle to accentuate the flavor and the product is
-packed in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_027" id="page_027"></a>{27}</span> oil. The olives are plump, tender, and brilliant, and possess
-a very rich flavor.</p>
-
-<p>In parts of Southern Europe certain kinds of olives are left on the
-trees to become very ripe, and are then dried in the sun without any
-preparation. These are only used locally as they are lacking in the fine
-flavor of the prepared olive.</p>
-
-<p>In the preparation of the olive, both green and ripe, during all these
-centuries, there had been no attempt at sterilization. The olive was
-preserved by partial drying, by the action of salt, and by its
-spontaneous fermentation in pickle in which certain desirable forms of
-organisms had the ascendency. With the good fruit thus prepared, there
-must have been considerable which was spoiled, and yet no illness is
-known to have resulted.</p>
-
-<p>Though olives have figured so largely in the alimentation of southern
-Europe, the oil particularly being so important and general a food, the
-people of northern Europe have not esteemed either to an important
-extent. With the crude methods in vogue for transporting the oil, and
-the lack of understanding as to its nature, it is supposed that their
-apathetic attitude was due to its being received in poor condition.</p>
-
-<p>In England also, though so close to the olive growing districts, the
-olive has not been used to any considerable extent, judging from its
-absence from menus and from their cookery. In examining old cookery
-books it was surprising to find no mention of olives. In Russel’s “Boke
-of Nurture” and Mrs.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_028" id="page_028"></a>{28}</span> Napier’s “Noble Boke off Cookry” the manuscripts
-dating from the 15th century, there is no mention of olives, though
-there are condiments and spices from foreign countries used in sauces
-and other preparations. Neither is there any mention of olives in “The
-Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby Opened” written in the 17th century, though
-Digby had traveled much and lived on the continent. The earliest mention
-in 17 cookery books, published in the 17th and 18th centuries is the
-following, published in 1745, and which is really a translation of a
-French work by L. Lemery, physician to the King, and member of the Royal
-Academy. It is interesting in showing the many virtues attributed to
-olives.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot"><p class="c"><b>“OF OLIVES”</b></p>
-
-<p>“You ought to chuse such as are large, pulpy, well preserv’d and
-tasted, and those that have been cultivated in hot Countries.</p>
-
-<p>They create an Appetite, fortify the Stomach, dissolve and expell
-the viscous and gross Humours fix’d there, repress Reachings, and
-are a little nourishing.</p>
-
-<p>They produce no ill Effects, unless they are us’d to excess.</p>
-
-<p>They contain much Oil, Phlegm, and essential Salt.</p>
-
-<p>They agree in cold Weather with any Sort of Age and Constitution,
-provided they are good, and well preserv’d.”</p></div>
-
-<p class="c"><b>Remarks</b></p>
-
-<p>“<i>Olives</i> are oblong or oval and juicy Fruits, larger or smaller,
-according to the Country they grow in:<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_029" id="page_029"></a>{29}</span> Care must be taken to gather
-them before they are ripe, and then they have a harsh bitter Taste not
-to be endured, because their salts are clogg’d and swallow’d up by the
-earthy and gross Parts.</p>
-
-<p><i>Olives</i> are preserv’d with Water and Salt, and then they become
-pleasing to the Taste; the Reason is, because the Liquor of Brine causes
-a little Fermentation in the <i>Olives</i>, by the Help thereof the Salts
-free themselves by degrees of the earthy Parts that do retain them; and
-afterwards with more Lightness and Delicacy prick the nervous Fibres of
-the Tongue.</p>
-
-<p>“The Brine produces another good Effect in the <i>Olives</i>; for by its
-saline Parts it stops up the Pores of this Fruit, and prevents the Air
-from ent’ring too much into it, and thereby cause a considerable
-Fermentation therein, which destroys the Fruit, and soon rots them.</p>
-
-<p><i>Olives</i> well preserv’d create an Appetite, by gently pricking the Sides
-of the Stomach, not only by their acid Salts, but also by those
-communicated to them by the Pickle. They also bind up and fortify the
-Stomach by their earthy Parts, which swallow up the over-abounding
-Moistures that relax the Fibres of that Part.</p>
-
-<p>The <i>Picholines</i> are <i>Olives</i> cut in several Places, and then steep’d in
-Pickle; they are sooner in a Condition to be eaten than others, because
-that by the Help of the Incision made in them, the Brine or Pickle is
-sooner and more effectually communicated to their whole Substance.</p>
-
-<p>Oil of <i>Olives</i> is much us’d in Ailments; it’s of a qualifying,
-mollifying, anodine, dissolving and detersive Nature, good for the
-Cholic and Bloody-flux, and is prepar’d in this Manner.</p>
-
-<p>They get together in <i>November</i> or <i>December</i>, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_030" id="page_030"></a>{30}</span> great Quantity of full
-ripe <i>Olives</i>, and lay them by for a Time in some Corner of the House,
-where they are heated, and thereby become purified of their watry
-Moisture; then they grind them in a Mill, and put them into Rush or Palm
-Frails, plac’d on the Top of one another Pressways, and the first Oil
-that comes from them, is called <i>Virgin’s Oil</i>.</p>
-
-<p>They sprinkle the <i>Olives</i> with warm water, and by pressing them a-new,
-and still the more, there comes a good Oil from them.</p>
-
-<p>This done, they stir the <i>Olives</i> again, and sprinkle them with hot
-Water, from which, thus order’d, there proceeds another Oil full of
-Dregs, and not so good as the rest.</p>
-
-<p>These Oils are easily separated from the Water, because they swim a top,
-but they find a Kind of Lees to the Bottom, which the Ancients called
-<i>Amurca</i>.</p>
-
-<p>Those <i>Olives</i> of which you design to make Oil, must ripen ’till they
-are even rotten; and the Reason is, because the sulphurous Parts in them
-have had Time to disengage themselves from those gross Principles, which
-before fix’d them, which we know by the sweetish and oily Taste that
-then they had. They also let them ferment for some time before they
-press them, that so those sulphurous Parts may free themselves, and be
-more fully separated from the watry and saline Parts, with which they
-were united in the Fruits. Here it is to be observ’d that you cannot
-extract a Drop of Oil from green olives, but only a viscous Juice,
-because their oily Principles are very strictly united with their other
-Principles.</p>
-
-<p>The Leaves of the <i>Olive-Tree</i> are astringent, and fit for to stop the
-Bleeding of the Nose, and Looseness.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_031" id="page_031"></a>{31}</span></p>
-
-<p>There are certain wild <i>Olive-Trees</i> that grow near the Red-Sea, from
-which there sweats out a Gum that stops Blood, and cures Wounds.</p>
-
-<p>The <i>Olive-Tree</i> in Latin called <i>Olea</i>, comes from the <i>Greek</i> Word
-<i>elaia</i> which also signifies the same Thing.”</p>
-
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-
-<p>A later work, “The Lady’s Assistant” published in 1778, gives a much
-better idea of how little they were used at that time in England.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">OLIVES</p>
-
-<p>“OLIVES are the fruits of trees, which grow wild in the warmer
-parts of Europe; we have them in some of our gardens; but with us
-they will not ripen to any perfection.</p>
-
-<p>There are three kinds, the Italian, Spanish, and French; we have
-them therefore of various sizes and flavors; some prefer one, and
-some the other.</p>
-
-<p>The fine sallad oil, as has been before mentioned, is made from
-this fruit, for which purpose they are gathered ripe; but for
-pickling they are gathered when half-ripe, at the latter end of
-June: they are put into fresh water to soak for two days; after
-this they throw them into lime-water in which some pearl-ashes have
-been dissolved: they lie in this liquor six-and-thirty hours; then
-they are thrown into water which has had bay-salt dissolved in it:
-this is the last preparation, and they are sent over to us in this
-liquor: they are naturally as they grow on the tree very bitter,
-and therefore require all these preparations to bring them to their
-fine flavor. To some olives they add a small quantity of essence of
-spices, which is an oil drawn from cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon,
-coriander and sweet-fennel seed distilled together for that
-purpose: twelve drops are enough for a bushel of olives: some
-prefer<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_032" id="page_032"></a>{32}</span> them flavored with this essence, but others like them best
-plain.”</p></div>
-
-<p>At present the use of aromatic substances commercially is not large. It
-is contended that consumers cannot use flavored olives in sauces or
-other preparations so freely, as extraneous flavors are introduced which
-in some cases are undesirable, the unflavored olive permitting greater
-freedom in use.</p>
-
-<p>For the preparation of the green olives “a la Sevillane,” the fruit is
-first treated with alkali, then washed in clear water, after which it is
-put into 2 or 3 per cent boiled brine, where after a time fermentation
-starts, which imparts a slight lactic acid taste to the fruit. It is
-then washed in water, graded for size, and put in barrels with a 5 or 6%
-salt, when they are ready for consumption.</p>
-
-<p>The half ripe olives are put in a boiled brine of 12 to 15% for six
-days, after which they are washed in running water and then put in jars
-in a 6 to 8% brine with a bay leaf and a sprig of thyme and fennel.
-Olives prepared in this way are called “a la Provencale.” A variation on
-this method, called “a la Madrilene” is to put the olives in barrels,
-after the preliminary salting and washing, in 10% brine with red
-pimiento, pepper corns, laurel, thyme, and tomato purée.</p>
-
-<p>The black olives are gathered at the time of the change in color, and
-put in water, renewed every 12 hours, until the bitterness has
-disappeared, which requires 40 to 50 days, sometimes even longer. They
-are then put into brine.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_033" id="page_033"></a>{33}</span></p>
-
-<p>The large olive “La Tanche” after sorting and cleaning is put directly
-into a 10 to 15% brine in wooden casks or cement tanks which hold from
-4,000 to 6,000 kilos. When the bitterness has been abstracted, they are
-ready for sale. The brine is decanted and held until the following year.</p>
-
-<p>To prepare them so that they may be ready for sale sooner, the fruit is
-run over a roller provided with fine points which perforate the skin,
-after which the olives are put in layers and sprinkled generously with
-salt. They are stirred frequently, and when they “sweat,” they are put
-in barrels with pepper corns and bay leaves, or in jars with olive oil
-and condiments, or they may be put in jars without any addition as they
-are preserved by their own oil and the absorbed salt.</p>
-
-<p>The methods of preparation cited are those used for olives consumed in
-foreign countries, very few thus prepared being imported, as they are
-known only to olive connoisseurs.</p>
-
-<h3>Imported Green Olives</h3>
-
-<p>Nearly all the green olives used in this country come from Spain and are
-generally known as “Queen olives.” In years of shortage a few come from
-Italy, Greece, and France. They are hand picked, cleaned, treated in the
-usual way with lye, and washed, but during this process care is
-exercised to prevent them being exposed to the air as it is desired to
-retain the green color. They are then graded for size and quality and
-placed in huge casks or “pipes” with sufficient brine to cover them.
-The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_034" id="page_034"></a>{34}</span> “pipes” are exposed to the sun to favor the fermentation which
-requires six weeks or more, depending upon the temperature. During the
-fermentation, the olives change slowly from deep green to golden. The
-pipes hold from 160 to 180 gallons and are used for shipping the olives
-to this country. Ten per cent brine is used for filling the casks, but
-the brine weakens during the curing and is usually 7 or 7½% at the
-finish.</p>
-
-<p>The Queen olives are hand graded for size on the basis of the number per
-kilo. The following grades are made:</p>
-
-<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr><td class="c" colspan="2">QUEEN OLIVES</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td class="rt">
-60-70<br />
-70-80<br />
-80-90<br />
-90-100<br />
-100-110<br />
-110-120<br />
-120-130</td><td class="rt">&nbsp; &nbsp;
-
-130-140<br />
-140-150<br />
-150-160<br />
-160-180<br />
-180-200<br />
-200-220</td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<p>They are also graded for quality, as: “prime” or “first quality,”
-“seconds,” and “Queen culls.” Only the first and second grade are sent
-to this country though all sizes are, but there is no designation by
-which the consumer may obtain a desired size. The term Queen olive may
-mean those having only 60 to the kilo or those with 220 to the kilo.</p>
-
-<p>Some green olives are packed in tins and shipped to this country and a
-comparatively few are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_035" id="page_035"></a>{35}</span> brought in bottles. The importers prefer to
-purchase the olives in bulk and pack according to their trade
-requirements, under the sanitary conditions imposed in this country
-rather than those found abroad. The olives are transferred from the
-pipes to bottles and either supplied with fresh brine or the brine from
-the pipe is carefully filtered and only such addition made as needed to
-make up the difference. The use of the original liquor gives a decidedly
-better flavor, though it is often sacrificed in order to get one which
-is perfectly clear.</p>
-
-<p>The green olive is retailed almost wholly in glass, either in fancy hand
-packed packages or in pint and quart jars. Many attempts have been made
-to create a sale in tin containers, but without success as there are
-decided advantages in being able to see the size and quality. Seeing the
-fruit no doubt frequently suggests its use and purchase. A few olives
-are still retailed in bulk but they soon become covered with yeast and
-other organisms, and have an unattractive appearance.</p>
-
-<p>The origin of the stuffed olive is of very recent date, but by whom
-originated is not quite clear. According to an authority<span class="fnanchor"><a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1">[1]</a></span> on Spanish
-olives, stuffed olives were unknown before 1893-4. It was in 1895 that
-Señor Picasa, the general manager of the Sevilla Packing Company, had
-seen olives stuffed with pimientos in Spain, and in the following year
-introduced them into the United States, <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_036" id="page_036"></a>{36}</span>the company packing them under
-the copyrighted name of “Pimola.” In 1897, a Spanish house packed
-pepper-stuffed olives, and later on other firms also, among the latter
-many American firms. As the pimiento is grown and prepared in Spain, and
-labor cheaper there than here, the industry has been practically
-transferred to that country.</p>
-
-<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1.]</span></a> H. C. Newcomb, former vice-consul to Spain.</p></div>
-
-<p>The operation of stuffing consists in removing the pit and filling the
-cavity with some other substance, particularly pimiento, these forming
-the bulk of the stuffed olive trade. The bright red of the latter gives
-a pleasing contrast with the green, and the mild pungency is very
-agreeable to many persons. Pickled celery, capers, etc., have been used,
-but were not so favorably received, and at present, the substances used
-to any extent, aside from the pimiento, are Manzanillos stuffed with
-pieces of Queens, and some stuffed with anchovies for the South American
-trade. Pitting machines have been devised, and also machines for
-stuffing the olives, but the work done by the stuffing machines is crude
-as compared with hand work. The olives used for stuffing are the
-Manzanillo which are smaller than the Queen. The sizes are as follows:</p>
-
-<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr><td class="c" colspan="2">MANZANILLO (Stuffed)</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td class="rt">
-180-200<br />
-200-220<br />
-220-240<br />
-240-260<br />
-260-280</td><td class="rt">
-280-300<br />
-300-320<br />
-320-340<br />
-340-360</td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_037" id="page_037"></a>{37}</span></p>
-
-<p>They are packed in barrels of about 45 gallons capacity, and like the
-Queen, are repacked into individual containers in this country.</p>
-
-<p>A few olives are packed with a mince of capers, anchovies, truffles,
-etc., and the olives preserved in oil. A few are also packed for
-garnishing, in which cubes are cut out and the spaces filled with bright
-peppers.</p>
-
-<h3>Domestic</h3>
-
-<p>In California the commercially prepared olives are practically all ripe,
-only a very limited quantity of green ones being prepared. Since the
-olives, even on the same tree, ripen at various periods, three pickings
-are made during the season, when olives well colored and of an equal
-degree of ripeness are taken. In excessively ripe olives, the skin
-toughens, and the fruit is difficult to pickle. The trees are pruned so
-as to keep them low enough to be reached by the harvesters on step
-ladders, in order that all picking may be done by hand. The picked fruit
-is taken to a central point to be filled into boxes or barrels, for
-transportation to the factory. For the best grades of olives, particular
-care is taken during this part of the work to avoid bruising the fruit,
-which is picked into canvas bags, pails, etc., then poured into barrels
-partly filled with water, so that the water will furnish a cushion for
-the fruit. The olives are transported to the factory in these barrels.
-These precautions are taken as bruised spots soften and become black,
-and the resulting processed fruit will not be of first quality. Many<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_038" id="page_038"></a>{38}</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i_038_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_038_sml.jpg" width="450" height="407" alt="[Image unavailable: Sorting Olives for Size by Machine]" title="Sorting Olives for Size by Machine" /></a>
-<br />
-<span class="caption">Sorting Olives for Size by Machine</span>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">growers deliver fruit dry in lug boxes, but bruising and crushing are
-liable to occur during transportation. The fruit is delivered into a
-hopper filled with water, then from the hopper into boxes where the
-fruit is drained. The fruit is delivered in the factory to be first
-sorted which is done on a moving belt, and here all stems and defective
-fruit are removed as the fruit is carried slowly past the workers who
-sit or stand on either side. In some factories the sorting is done after
-the fruit is pickled, but is much more difficult due to the change in
-color<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_039" id="page_039"></a>{39}</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i_039_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_039_sml.jpg" width="450" height="418" alt="[Image unavailable: Sorting Olives for Quality by Hand]" title="Sorting Olives for Quality by Hand" /></a>
-<br />
-<span class="caption">Sorting Olives for Quality by Hand</span>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">through the action of the lye and of oxidation. The fruit is next passed
-to the grader, which separates the various sizes. From the grader the
-three largest sizes are each delivered to a moving belt to be sorted for
-color, degree of ripeness, and culls, as the curing must be modified to
-suit the particular degree of ripeness, a crisp firm olive requiring a
-heavier treatment than does a riper, softer-textured one. The olives as
-sorted, are passed to small side belts, which thus deliver fruit uniform
-in size and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_040" id="page_040"></a>{40}</span> color to the receiving boxes. Great care is taken in the
-sorting of olives, different varieties are not mixed, nor even fruit of
-the same variety but from different localities. In grading for size by
-machine, <sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub> of an inch is the variation between each size and the
-next; those less than <sup>10</sup>/<sub>16</sub> are removed to be used for other purposes.
-When the minimum is due to the variety and not to stunting, the fruit
-may be pickled, because aside from the larger proportion of pit, the
-flavor is equal to that of the large fruit. Usually the smaller olives
-were used for oil, but more recently are used for relishes and sauces.
-The sizes upon which the different grades are made are based upon the
-short diameter of the fruit, and have been adopted by the California
-Olive Association:</p>
-
-<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr valign="bottom"><td align="left">&nbsp; &nbsp; Grade</td><td align="center">Number<br />
-per lb.</td><td align="left">Diam. in<br />
-inches</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Standard</td><td class="rt">120-135</td><td align="left"><sup>10</sup>/<sub>16</sub>-<sup>11</sup>/<sub>16</sub></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Medium</td><td class="rt">105-120</td><td align="left"><sup>11</sup>/<sub>16</sub></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Large</td><td class="rt">90-105</td><td align="left"><sup>12</sup>/<sub>16</sub></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Extra Large</td><td class="rt">75-90</td><td align="left"><sup>13</sup>/<sub>16</sub></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Mammoth</td><td class="rt">65-75</td><td align="left"><sup>13.5</sup>/<sub>16</sub></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Giant</td><td class="rt">55-65</td><td align="left"><sup>14</sup>/<sub>16</sub></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Jumbo</td><td class="rt">45-55</td><td align="left"><sup>15</sup>/<sub>16</sub></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Colossal</td><td class="rt">35-45</td><td align="left"><sup>16</sup>/<sub>16</sub></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<p>The olives are placed in an alkaline solution, usually sodium hydrate as
-it is stronger in action than potassium hydrate. The strength varies
-with the different packers but is generally in the neighborhood<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_041" id="page_041"></a>{41}</span> of
-1½%. After 6 to 8 hours, the lye is drawn off and the olives exposed
-to the air in order that they may oxidize and darken, since the lye
-removes some of the natural color. The operation is repeated with the
-same strength or less of lye solution and the fruit exposed to the air
-until examination of the pulp shows that the lye has penetrated to the
-pit. The lye solution is then replaced with clear water which is changed
-twice a day, until the lye and bitterness are removed, which requires
-from 4 to 8 days. The olives are then treated with brine solutions,
-starting with 1%, and increasing the strength at intervals of about 2
-days until about 4% is used, when they are ready to be put in glass jars
-or cans and sealed.</p>
-
-<p>The brine is used very weak at the start and gradually increased so that
-the osmotic action may be so controlled as not to cause the fruit to
-shrivel as it would if placed in a strong solution at the start. Some
-packers permit the olives to stay in the weak brine long enough for
-fermentation to take place as done with the imported green olives so as
-to develop an acid flavor. The more recent tendency, however, is toward
-packing them with the least possible change, and to depend upon the
-distinctive natural flavor of the fruit itself. A similar tendency
-toward retaining the natural color, rather than that induced by
-oxidation, might be advantageous.</p>
-
-<p>If it be the intent to hold the olives in bulk, they are treated with
-increasingly strong brines until 10<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_042" id="page_042"></a>{42}</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i_042_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_042_sml.jpg" width="450" height="287" alt="[Image unavailable: Curing Vats]" title="Curing Vats" /></a>
-<br />
-<span class="caption">Curing Vats</span>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_043" id="page_043"></a>{43}</span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">to 12½% is used, the latter amount being required to carry them
-safely through the summer.</p>
-
-<p>The process is modified in practise to suit the conditions, as
-variations in varieties of fruit, in temperature, and in the lye have to
-be considered. There are also variations in practise due to individual
-experience. During the time the olives are in the various solutions they
-are stirred frequently, so as to change their position in the vats, and
-also to change the solution in contact with them. The stirring was, and
-is done yet in some cases, by hand, with wooden paddles, which is
-laborious besides causing more or less damage to the fruit. Recently
-compressed air has been piped to the vats and directed into the
-solutions with sufficient force to keep the olives agitated. This method
-is said to hasten the action of the lye solutions with consequent
-improvement in the fruit. It also obviates the drawing off the solutions
-and the exposure of the fruit to the air, as a certain amount of
-oxidation takes place in the solution.</p>
-
-<p>As the operators place the olives in the bottles or cans, the soft and
-defective ones are discarded. The containers are then filled with a 3%
-brine at a temperature of 175 or 180 degrees F. The air is exhausted,
-during which the temperature is raised to 185 degrees, and the
-containers sealed, after which they are processed. The large olives in a
-26 ounce glass jar are cooked for 50 minutes; extra large, 55 minutes;
-mammoth, 58 minutes; and colossal 60 minutes; at 240 degree F. in some
-factories,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_044" id="page_044"></a>{44}</span> or for a longer period if processed at a lower temperature.</p>
-
-<p>The time required for heat to penetrate to the center of an olive is
-longer than has been generally supposed. This was determined by
-carefully drilling into the pit, first with a fine drill and then with
-increasingly larger ones, until an eighth inch hole was made. The bulb
-of a small thermometer was inserted, and to prevent heat being carried
-to the bulb by means of the glass stem, sections of olives were placed
-around the stem immediately above the olive being tested, and tied
-securely. Jumbo olives at room temperature placed directly in a boiling
-bath required on an average fourteen and one-half minutes for the
-temperature to reach 209 degrees F., which is practically the maximum
-which can be attained under the conditions. When the olive was placed in
-cold water and the bath heated rapidly under conditions similar to home
-canning, the average time required to reach 209 degrees F. was 29
-minutes. The former experiment represents a more favorable condition for
-heat penetration than prevails in factory operations, and the latter
-probably the least favorable, but both show that in the ordinary process
-all parts of the olive do not reach the high temperature supposed to be
-produced by that of the bath for more than a few minutes.</p>
-
-<p>At the University of California ripe olives have been canned without
-brine. After pickling, the olives have been placed in 3% brine for
-several days, then heated in the brine to about 180 degrees F.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_045" id="page_045"></a>{45}</span> after
-which they are taken from the brine, put in the bottles or cans, sealed,
-and processed. No shrinking, wrinkling, softening, nor change in color
-is said to take place. By the elimination of the brine in the container,
-there results a saving in freight of 31.5% with cans and 16.6% with
-bottles.</p>
-
-<p>The history of the olive and its method of preparation show that no
-organisms pathogenic to man are normally present and that if such
-organisms be associated with it in any way, it must be from the outside
-and through local infection.</p>
-
-<p>More care is required in processing at high temperatures, than at
-boiling. A high internal pressure is developed inside the cans or jars,
-due to the expansion of the contents and of the enclosed gases, which
-has a tendency to loosen or blow off the covers. This tendency may be
-overcome by applying air or water pressure on the outside of the cans or
-jars to counteract that generated within. This is done while they are
-inside the retort and by means of automatic pressure controllers. There
-is no essential difference in the sterilizing and cooling of tin cans
-and glass jars, both forms of containers are responsive to treatment
-with high temperatures and both require proper care and handling. As
-with pickled olives, however, glass jars permit the purchaser to see the
-size and the condition of the fruit.</p>
-
-<p>The canning of ripe olives in California was originated by F. T.
-Bioletti, zymologist in the University of California, and came about
-through an<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_046" id="page_046"></a>{46}</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i_046_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_046_sml.jpg" width="450" height="411" alt="[Image unavailable: Packing Olives in Jars]" title="Packing Olives in Jars" /></a>
-<br />
-<span class="caption">Packing Olives in Jars</span>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">investigation in 1889 on the spoiling of olives. When pickled olives
-were held, the quality deteriorated in some of them, they softened
-during the summer, and seldom remained in an edible condition for a
-year. As a result of his experiments on methods of keeping, he found
-that the olives could be sterilized in sealed containers and be kept in
-edible condition indefinitely. The commercial application of the method
-and the popularizing of the ripe olive is due to Mrs. Freda Ehmann, a
-pioneer olive grower, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_047" id="page_047"></a>{47}</span> applied scientific methods, with marked
-success, to both the development and canning of the olive.</p>
-
-<p>The sustained scientific work along developmental and preserving lines
-in this country, has been done mainly by Wickson, Bioletti, and Cruess
-of the state university staff to whom great credit is due for the
-advancement made. Many improvements have naturally been made by
-manufacturers in the preparation of the ripe olive but are held by the
-factories for their own use solely.</p>
-
-<p>Recently Cruess has developed methods for treating the ripe olive with
-aerated hot solutions which have permitted the preliminary treatments to
-be done in 3 to 6 days, instead of as formerly in 3 to 6 weeks. The
-methods promise to be of great economic value, and have been patented
-for the benefit of the public.</p>
-
-<p>The olives which are too small or misshapen to be used in the regular
-pack are sometimes used for other purposes besides oil extraction in
-which size and appearance are not factors. The flesh is ground and
-seasoned and thus furnishes a mixture for relishes and sandwich filling,
-or the flesh is mixed with pickled cucumbers, capers, pimiento, tomato,
-etc., in various combinations for the same purposes or to flavor sauces.
-The appetizing ways in which olives may be used alone or in combination,
-and the attractive dishes which can be prepared from them are endless.</p>
-
-<p>A preparation which has considerable vogue with lovers of ripe olives is
-to take the olives from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_048" id="page_048"></a>{48}</span> brine some hours before using and cover
-them with olive oil. This preparation may be further enhanced by rubbing
-the dish before using, with a cut clove of garlic. The use of aromatics
-in the preliminary preparation, then packing in oil, as done by the
-Greeks, Italians, and Spaniards, with some of their best olives, produce
-very fine products that are far ahead, in both flavor and food value, of
-the ordinary preparations.</p>
-
-<p>The olive, though used almost exclusively as a relish or appetizer in
-this country, is a valuable food. This is true for both the green and
-the ripe, the difference in the two not being so great as is frequently
-claimed. The pickled green olive has supplanted the cucumber pickle to a
-very considerable extent in the trade. The canned ripe olive is
-distinctive and depends upon an entirely different quality for its
-favor. As long as the present prices prevail, they can not be considered
-on the basis of staples or in competition with many other foods in
-furnishing nutritive elements.</p>
-
-<p>The flesh of the American olive consists of about 80 per cent of the
-fruit, and of this the solids average 38 per cent, oil 25 per cent, and
-protein 1.2 per cent.</p>
-
-<p>In spite of the fact that olives have been used as a food from time
-immemorial, very little systematic analytic work seems to have been done
-on the whole fruit in the various stages of maturity and in determining
-the effect of the various treatments for the removal of the bitterness.
-Much of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_049" id="page_049"></a>{49}</span> analytic work has been devoted to analyses of the oil and
-to methods for determining adulteration. The methods followed in this
-country and abroad are not the same and the results are therefore not
-comparable. It seems strange that so old and so commercially important a
-fruit has not been investigated to the minutest detail.</p>
-
-<p>It is stated that the olive on reaching full size increases in weight
-and oil content as it matures, the various stages being approximately
-determined by the change in color from green to yellow, red, and finally
-black. When, however, one finds analyses of typical fruit of one variety
-and from the same place which show the flesh of the green olive to
-contain 23.55 per cent; yellowish green, 20.37 per cent; red, 27.35 per
-cent; and purple to black, 24.89 per cent oil, it discounts the color
-value. Other available analyses show similar discrepancies between the
-chemical composition and the color test as indicative of maturity.
-Variation in composition occurs in the same variety of fruit grown in
-different places as well as in the different varieties and, as with
-other fruits, one is dependent upon the skill of the packer in selecting
-raw stock and in handling it in the process of manufacture, for the
-quality of the article received. It is only natural to expect that a
-product containing so much oil and subjected to the action of lye, might
-be greatly changed during its preparation. The data available, however,
-does not sustain this premise, but shows that very little change
-actually takes place.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_050" id="page_050"></a>{50}</span></p>
-
-<h2><a name="LITERATURE" id="LITERATURE"></a>LITERATURE</h2>
-
-<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Andran, H. M.</td><td align="left">Les conserves des petits menages.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Armstrong, E. F.</td><td align="left">The simple carbohydrates and the glucosides, 1912.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">D’Aygalliers, P. D.</td><td align="left">L’olivier et l’huile d’olive, 1900.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Bourquelot, Em. and Vintilesco, J.</td><td align="left">Compt. Rend. <i>147</i>, 533, 535, 1908.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Buckland, A. W.</td><td align="left">Our viands, 1893.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Chalmers, T. W.</td><td align="left">The reduction and treatment of vegetable oils, 1918.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Coupin, Henri</td><td align="left">La conservation des fruits, des lugumes, des graines.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Cruess, Wm. V.</td><td align="left">Home and farm food preservation, 1918.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Gracey, Wilbur T.</td><td align="left">Olive growing in Spain. Special consular report, No. 79, Dept. of Com., 1918.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Green, Mary E.</td><td align="left">Food products of the world, 1895.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Haas, Paul and Hill, T. G.</td><td align="left">Chemistry of plant products, 1913.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Hilts, R. W.</td><td align="left">Chemical study of the ripening and pickling of California olives. Bul. 803, Bu. of Chem., Dept. of Agr., 1920.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_051" id="page_051"></a>{51}</span></td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Lemery, L., Translation by Hay, D.&nbsp; &nbsp; </td><td align="left">Treatise of all sorts of food, 1745.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Loudon, J. C.</td><td align="left">Loudon’s encyclopedia of plants, 1866.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Martyn, Charles</td><td align="left">Foods and culinary utensils of the ancients.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Mason, Charlotte</td><td align="left">The lady’s assistant, 1778.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Pellerin, G.</td><td align="left">Guide pratique de l’expert chimiste, 1910.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">de Savigny, G. B.</td><td align="left">Conserves, salaisons, et confitures de menage, 1909.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Thudichum, J. L. W.</td><td align="left">Cookery, its art and practice, 1895.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Wickson, E. J.</td><td align="left">California fruits, 1910.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Willis, Oliver R.</td><td align="left">Practical flora, 1894.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">Fig and Olive Journal, vo. 4, No. 11, Apr. 1920.</td></tr>
-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">Seal of safety, 1915.</td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/back.jpg" width="330" height="500"
-alt="[Image of the back cover unavailable]" title="" />
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