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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8be49e7 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #51932 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/51932) diff --git a/old/51932-8.txt b/old/51932-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index e7132a7..0000000 --- a/old/51932-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13803 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Journal of a Residence in America, by Fanny -Kemble - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: Journal of a Residence in America - - -Author: Fanny Kemble - - - -Release Date: May 2, 2016 [eBook #51932] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A RESIDENCE IN -AMERICA*** - - -E-text prepared by Suzanne Shell, Martin Pettit, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images -generously made available by Internet Archive/American Libraries -(https://archive.org/details/americana) - - - -Note: Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive/American Libraries. See - https://archive.org/details/journalaresiden01kembgoog - - - - - -JOURNAL OF A RESIDENCE IN AMERICA. - -by - -FRANCES ANNE BUTLER - -(MISS FANNY KEMBLE). - -In One Volume. - - - - - - - -Paris, -Published by A. and W. Galignani and Co, -Rue Vivienne, No 18. - -1835. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -A preface appears to me necessary to this book, in order that the -expectation with which the English reader might open it should not be -disappointed. - -Some curiosity has of late been excited in England with regard to -America: its political existence is a momentous experiment, upon which -many eyes are fixed, in anxious watching of the result; and such -accounts as have been published of the customs and manners of its -societies, and the natural wonders and beauties of its scenery, have -been received and read with considerable interest in Europe. This being -the case, I should be loth to present these volumes to the English -public without disclaiming both the intention and the capability of -adding the slightest detail of any interest to those which other -travellers have already furnished upon these subjects. - -This book is, what it professes to be, my personal journal, and not a -history or a description of men and manners in the United States. - -Engaged in an arduous profession, and travelling from city to city in -its exercise, my leisure and my opportunities would have been alike -inadequate to such a task. The portion of America which I have visited -has been a very small one, and, I imagine, by no means that from which -the most interesting details are to be drawn. I have been neither to the -south nor to the west; consequently have had no opportunity of seeing -two large portions of the population of this country,--the enterprising -explorers of the late wildernesses on the shores of the -Mississippi,--and the black race of the slave slates,--both classes of -men presenting peculiarities of infinite interest to the traveller: the -one, a source of energy and growing strength, the other, of disease and -decay, in this vast political body. - -My sphere of observation has been confined to the Atlantic cities, whose -astonishing mercantile prosperity, and motley mongrel societies, though -curious under many aspects, are interesting but under few. - -What I registered were my immediate impressions of what I saw and heard; -of course, liable to all the errors attendant upon first perceptions, -and want of time and occasion for maturer investigation. The notes I -have added while preparing the text for the press; and such opinions and -details as they contain are the result of a longer residence in this -country, and a somewhat better acquaintance with the people of it. - -Written, as my journal was, day by day, and often after the fatigues of -a laborious evening's duty at the theatre, it has infinite sins of -carelessness to answer for; and but that it would have taken less time -and trouble to re-write the whole book, or rather write a better, I -would have endeavoured to correct them,--though, indeed, I was something -of Alfieri's mind about it:--"Quanto poi allo stile, io penso di lasciar -fare alla penna, e di pochissimo lasciarlo scostarsi da quella triviale -e spontanea naturalezza, con cui ho scritto quest' opera, dettata dal -cuore e non dall' ingegno; e che sola puo convenire a così umile tema." - -However, my purpose is not to write an apology for my book, or its -defects, but simply to warn the English reader, before he is betrayed -into its perusal, that it is a purely egotistical record, and by no -means a history of America. - - - - -JOURNAL. - - -_Wednesday, August 1st, 1832._ - -Another break in my journal, and here I am on board the Pacific, bound -for America, having left home and all the world behind.--Well! - - * * * * * - -We reached the quay just as the ship was being pulled, and pushed, and -levered to the entrance of the dock;--the quays were lined with people; -among them were several known faces,--Mr. ----, Mr. ----. M---- came on -board to take my letters, and bid me good-by. - - * * * * * - -I had a bunch of carnations in my hand, which I had snatched from our -drawing-room chimney;--English flowers! dear English flowers! they will -be withered long before I again see land; but I will keep them until I -once more stand upon the soil on which they grew. - - * * * * * - -The sky had become clouded, and the wind blew cold. - - * * * * * - -Came down and put our narrow room to rights. - - * * * * * - -Worked at my Bible-cover till dinner-time. We dined at half-past -three.--The table was excellent--cold dinner, because it was the first -day--but every thing was good; and champagne, and dessert, and every -luxury imaginable, rendered it as little like a ship-dinner as might be. -The man who sat by me was an American; very good-natured, and talkative. -Our passengers are all men, with the exception of three; a nice -pretty-looking girl, who is going out with her brother; a fat old -woman, and a fat young one. I cried almost the whole of dinner-time. - - * * * * * - -After dinner the ladies adjourned to their own cabin, and the gentlemen -began to debate about regulating the meal hours. They adopted the -debating society tone, called my poor dear father to the chair, and -presently I heard, oh horror! (what I had not thought to hear again for -six weeks) the clapping of hands. They sent him in to consult us about -the dinner-hour: and we having decided four o'clock, the debate -continued with considerable merriment. Presently my father, Colonel -----, and Mr. ----, came into our cabin:--the former read us Washington -Irving's speech at the New-York dinner. Some of it is very beautiful; -all of it is in good feeling--it made me cry. Oh my home, my land, -England, glorious little England! from which this bragging big baby was -born, how my heart yearns towards your earth! I sat working till the -gentlemen left us, and then wrote journal. - - * * * * * - -I am weary and sad, and will try to go and sleep.--It rains: I cannot -see the moon. - - -_Thursday, 2d._ - -It rained all night, and in the morning the wind had died away, and we -lay rocking, becalmed on the waveless waters. At eight o'clock they -brought me some breakfast, after which I got up; while dressing, I could -not help being amused at hearing the cocks crowing, and the cow lowing, -and geese and ducks gabbling, as though we were in the midst of a -farm-yard. At half-past ten, having finished my toilet, I emerged; and -Miss ---- and I walked upon deck. The sea lay still, and grey, without -ridge or sparkle, a sheet of lead; the sky was of the same dull colour. -The deck was wet and comfortless. We were but just off Holyhead: two or -three ships stood against the horizon, still as ourselves. The whole was -melancholy:--and, sadder than all, sat a poor woman, dressed in -mourning, in a corner of the deck; she was a steerage passenger, and I -never saw so much sorrow in any face. Poor thing! poor thing! was her -heart aching for home, and kindred left behind her? It made mine ach to -look at her. We walked up and down for an hour. I like my companion -well; she is a nice young quiet thing, just come from a country home. -Came down, and began getting out books for my German lesson, but, -turning rather awful, left my learning on the floor, and betook myself -to my berth. Slept nearly till dinner-time. At dinner I took my place at -table, but presently the misery returned; and getting up, while I had -sufficient steadiness left to walk becomingly down the room, I came to -my cabin; my dinner followed me thither, and, lying on my back, I very -comfortably discussed it. Got up, devoured some raspberry-tart and -grapes, and, being altogether delightful again, sat working and singing -till tea-time: after which, wrote journal, and now to bed. How strange -it seems to hear these Americans speaking in English of _the -English_!--"Oh, hame, hame, hame wad I be,"--but it is not time to sing -that yet. - - -_Friday, 3d._ - -Breakfasted at eight; got up, and dressed, and came upon deck. The day -was lovely, the sea one deep dark sapphire, the sky bright and -cloudless, the wind mild and soft, too mild to fill our sails, which -hung lazily against the masts,--but enough to refresh the warm summer's -sky, and temper the bright sun of August that shone above us. Walked -upon deck with Miss ---- and Captain Whaite: the latter is a very -intelligent good-natured person; rough and bluff, and only -seven-and-twenty; which makes his having the command of a ship rather an -awful consideration. At half-past eleven got my German, and worked at it -till half-past one, then got my work; and presently we were summoned on -deck by sound of bell, and oyes! oyes! oyes!--and a society was -established for the good demeanour and sociability of the passengers. My -father was in the chair. Mr. ---- was voted secretary, Dr. ---- -attorney-general; a badge was established, rules and regulations laid -down, a code framed, and much laughing and merriment thence ensued. -Worked till dinner-time. After dinner, went on deck, took a brisk walk -for half an hour with Captain Whaite. Established myself to work, and -presently we were all summoned to attend a mock trial of Colonel ----, -which made us all laugh most exceedingly. We adopted titles--I chose my -family appellation of Puddledock: many of the names were very absurd, -and as a penalty ensued upon not giving every body their proper -designation, much amusement arose from it. When the trial was over, we -played at dumb crambo, and earth, air, and water, with infinite zeal, -till tea-time. After tea, we were summoned on deck to see the ship make -a tack. The wind was against us, the sea inky black, the pale clear moon -stood high against the sail--presently, with a whooping and yaw-awling -that mocks description, the fair ship was turned away from the wind, the -sails veered round, and she set in another course. We remained on deck, -the gentlemen gathered round us, and singing began:--it went round and -round by turns; some of our voices were very sweet, and, upon the whole, -'twas time pleasantly spent. Came to bed at ten. - - -_Wednesday, 15th._ - -Here's a lapse! thanks to head winds, a rolling sea, and their result, -sickness, sadness, sorrow. I've been better for the last two days, thank -God! and take to my book again. Rose at eight, dawdled about, and then -came up stairs. Breakfasted, sat working at my Bible-cover till -lunch-time. Somebody asked me if I had any of Mrs. Siddons's hair; I -sent for my dressing-box, and forthwith it was overhauled, to use the -appropriate phrase, by half the company, whom a rainy day had reduced to -a state of worse than usual want of occupation. The rain continued all -day; we ladies dined in the round-house, the room down stairs being too -close. The Captain and Colonel ---- joined us afterwards, and began -drinking champagne, and induced us to do the same. As evening came on, -the whole of the passengers collected in the round-house. Mr. ----, Mr. -D----, and I wrote a rhapsody; afterwards they fell to singing; while -they did so, the sky darkened tremendously, the rain came pelting down, -the black sea swelled, and rose, and broke upon the ship's sides into -boiling furrows of foam, that fled like ghosts along the inky face of -the ocean. The ship scudded before the blast, and we managed to keep -ourselves warm by singing. After tea, for the first time since I have -been on board, got hold of a pack of cards, (oh me, that it ever should -come to this!) and initiated Miss ---- in the mysteries of the -intellectual game. Mercy! how my home rose before me as I did so. Played -till I was tired; dozed, and finally came to bed. Bed! quotha! 'tis a -frightful misapplication of terms. Oh for a bed! a real bed; any manner -of bed but a bed on shipboard! And yet I have seen some fair things: I -have seen a universe of air and water; I have seen the glorious sun come -and look down upon this rolling sapphire; I have seen the moon throw -her silver columns along the watery waste; I have seen one lonely ship -in her silent walk across this wilderness, meet another, greet her, and -pass her, like a dream, on the wide deep; I have seen the dark world of -waters at midnight open its mysterious mantle beneath our ship's prow, -and show below another dazzling world of light. I have seen, what I -would not but have seen, though I have left my very soul behind me. -England, dear, dear England! oh, for a handful of your earth! - - -_Thursday, 16th._ - -Another day, another day! the old fellow posts as well over water as -over land! Rose at about half-past eight, went up to the round-house; -breakfasted, and worked at my Bible-cover. As soon as our tent was -spread, went out on deck: took a longish walk with Mr. ----. I like him -very much; his face would enchant Lavater, and his skull ecstacise the -Combes. Lay down under our rough pavilion, and heard the gentlemen -descant very learnedly upon freemasonry. A book called "Adventures of an -Irish Gentleman," suggested the conversation; in which are detailed some -of the initiatory ceremonies, which appear to me so incredibly foolish, -that I can scarce believe them, even making mankind a handsome allowance -for absurdity. I soon perceived that the discussion was likely to prove -a serious one, for in America, it seems, 'tis made a political question; -and our Boston friend, and the Jacksonite, fell to rather sharply about -it. The temperance of the former, however, by retreating from the field, -spared us further argumentation. One thing I marvel at:--are the -institutions of men stronger to bind men, than those of God; and does -masonry effect good, which Christianity does not?--a silly query, by the -way; for doubtless men act the good, but forbear to act the evil, before -each other's eyes; which they think nothing of doing, or leaving undone, -under those of God. - -Gossiped till lunch-time; afterwards took up Childe Harold,--commend me -to that! I thought of dear H----. She admires Byron more than I do; and -yet how wildly I did, how deeply I do still, worship his might, majesty, -and loveliness. We dined up stairs, and after dinner, I and Mr. ---- -look a long walk on deck; talking flimsy morality, and philosophy, the -text of which were generalities, but all the points individualities: I -was amused in my heart at him and myself. He'd a good miss of me at -----: Heaven knows, I was odious enough! and therein his informer was -right. The day was bright, and bitter cold,--the sea blue, and -transparent as that loveliest line in Dante, - - - "Dolce color di oriental zaffiro," - - -with a lining of pearly foam, and glittering spray, that enchanted me. -Came and sat down again:--wrote doggerel for the captain's album, about -the captain's ship, which, when once I am out of her, I'll swear I love -infinitely. Read aloud to them some of Byron's short poems, and that -glorious hymn to the sea, in Childe Harold:--mercy, how fine it is! Lay -under our canvass shed till nine o'clock:--the stars were brilliant in -the intense blue sky, the wind had dropped, the ship lay still--we sang -a song or two, supped, and came in; where, after inditing two -rhapsodies, we came to bed. - - -_Friday, 17th._ - -On my back all day: mercy, how it ached too! the ship reeled about like -a drunken thing. I lay down, and began reading Byron's life. As far as I -have gone (which is to his leaving England) there is nothing in it but -what I expected to find,--the fairly-sown seeds of the after-harvest he -bore. Had he been less of an egotist, would he have been so great a -poet?--I question it. His fury and wrath at the severe injustice of his -critics reminds me, by the by, of those few lines in the Athenĉum, which -I read the other day, about poetical shoemakers, dairy-maids, ploughmen, -and myself. After all, what matters it?--"If this thing be of God," the -devil can't overthrow it; if it be not, why the printer's devil may. -What can it signify what is said? If truth be truth to the end of -reckoning, why, that share of her, if any, which I possess, must endure -when recorded as long as truth endures. I almost wonder Byron was moved -by criticism: I should have thought him at once too highly armed, and -too self-wrapped, to care for it;--however, if a wasp's sting have such -virtue in it, 'tis as well it should have been felt as keenly as it -was.--Ate nothing but figs and raisins; in the evening some of our -gentlemen came into our cabin, and sat with us; I, in very desperation -and sea-sickness, began embroidering one of my old nightcaps, wherein I -persevered till sleep overtook me. - - -_Saturday, 18th._ - -Rose at about half-past eight, dawdled about as usual, breakfasted in -the round-house--by the by, before I got out of bed, read a few more -pages of Byron's life. I don't exactly understand the species of -sentimental _galimatias_ Moore talks about Byron's writing with the same -penfull of ink, "Adieu, adieu, my native land!" and "Hurra! Hodgson, we -are going." It proves nothing except what I firmly believe, that we must -not look for the real feelings of writers in their works--or rather, -that what they give us, and what we take for heart feeling, is head -weaving--a species of emotion engendered somewhere betwixt the bosom and -the brain, and bearing the same proportion of resemblance to reality -that a picture does; that is--like feeling, but not feeling--like -sadness, but not sadness--like what it appears, but not indeed that very -thing: and the greater a man's power of thus producing _sham realities_, -the greater his main qualification for being a poet. After breakfast, -sat, like Lady Alice in the old song, embroidering my midnight coif. Got -Colonel ---- to read Quentin Durward to us as we sat working under our -canvass pavilion. - - * * * * * - -Our company consists chiefly of traders in cloth and hardware, clerks, -and counting-house men--a species with but few peculiarities of interest -to me, who cannot talk pounds, shillings, and pence, as glibly as less -substantial trash. Most of them have crossed this trifling ditch half a -dozen times in their various avocations. But though they belong to the -same sort generally, they differ enough individually for the amusement -of observation. That poor widower, whose remarks on the starry inside of -the sea attracted my attention the other evening, put into my hands -to-day a couple of pretty little books enough; a sort of hotch-potch, -or, to speak more sweetly, pot-pourri praise of women--passages selected -from various authors who have done us the honour to remember us in their -good commendations. There were one or two most eloquent and exquisite -passages from Jeremy Taylor--one on love that enchanted me. I should -like to copy it. What a contrast to that exquisite thing of Shelley's, -"What is Love?" and yet they are both beautiful, powerful, and true. I -could have helped them to sundry more passages on this subject, -particularly from my oracle. Mr. ---- read to us after lunch, and we sat -very happily under our _yawning_ till the rain drove us in. No wind, the -sea one rippleless sheet of lead, and the sky just such another. Our -main-top gallant-mast had been split in one of our late blows, and I -went out in the rain to see them restore the spar. Towards evening the -wind faired and freshened, in consequence of which our gentlemen's -spirits rose; and presently, in spite of the rain, they were dancing, -singing, and romping like mad things on the quarter-deck. It was -Saturday--holiday on board ship--the men were all dismissed to their -grog. Mr. ---- and I sang through a whole volume of Moore's melodies; -and at ten o'clock (for the first time since our second day on board) we -of the petticoats adjourned to the gentlemen's cabin to drink -"sweethearts and wives," according to the approved sailors' practice. It -made me sad to hear them, as they lifted their glasses to their lips, -pass round the toast, "Sweethearts and wives!" I drank in my -heart--"Home and dear H----." One thing amused me a good deal:--the -Captain proposed as a toast, "The Ladies--God bless them," which -accordingly was being duly drunk, when I heard, close to my elbow, a -devout, half audible--"and the Lord deliver us!" This, from a man with a -face like one of Retsch's most grotesque etchings, and an expression -half humorous, half terrified, sent me into fits of laughter. They sang -a song or two, and at twelve we left them to their meditations, which -presently reached our ears in the sound, not shape, of "Health to -Bacchus," in full chorus, to which tune I said my prayers. - - -_Sunday, 19th._ - -Did not rise till late--dressed and came on deck. The morning was -brilliant; the sea, bold, bright, dashing its snowy crests against our -ship's sides, and flinging up a cloud of glittering spray round the -prow. I breakfasted--and then amused myself with finding the lessons, -collects, and psalms for the whole ship's company. After lunch, they -spread our tent; a chair was placed for my father, and, the little bell -being rung, we collected in our rude church. It affected me much, this -praying on the lonely sea, in the words that at the same hour were being -uttered by millions of kindred tongues in our dear home. There was -something, too, impressive and touching in this momentary union of -strangers, met but for a passing day, to part, perhaps, never to behold -each other's faces again, in the holiest of all unions, that of -Christian worship. Here I felt how close, how strong that wondrous tie -of common faith that thus gathered our company, unknown and unconnected -by any one worldly interest or bond, to utter the same words of praise -and supplication, to think perhaps the same thoughts of humble and -trustful dependence on God's great goodness in this our pilgrimage to -foreign lands, to yearn perhaps with the same affection and earnest -imploring of blessings towards our native soil and its beloved ones left -behind.--Oh, how I felt all this, as we spoke aloud that touching -invocation, which is always one of my most earnest prayers, "Almighty -God, who hast promised when two or three are gathered together in thy -name," etc. * * * The bright cloudless sky and glorious sea seemed to -respond, in their silent magnificence, to our _Te Deum_.--I felt more of -the excitement of prayer than I have known for many a day, and 'twas -good--oh! very, very good! - - * * * * * - -'Tis good to behold this new universe, this mighty sea which he hath -made, this glorious cloudless sky, where hang, like dew drops, his -scattered worlds of light--to see all this, and say,-- - - - "These are thy glorious works, parent of good!" - - -After prayers, wrote journal. Some sea-weed floated by the ship to-day, -borne from the gulf stream; I longed to have it, for it told of land: -gulls too came wheeling about, and the little petterels like -sea-swallows skimmed round and round, now resting on the still bosom of -the sunny sea, now flickering away in rapid circles like black -butterflies. They got a gun, to my horror, and wasted a deal of time in -trying to shoot these feathered mariners; but they did not even succeed -in scaring them. We went and sat on the forecastle to see the sun set: -he did not go down cloudless, but dusky ridges of vapour stretched into -ruddy streaks along the horizon, as his disk dipped into the burnished -sea. The foam round the prow, as the ship made way with all sail set -before a fair wind, was the most lovely thing I ever saw. Purity, -strength, glee, and wondrous beauty were in those showers of snowy spray -that sprang up above the black' ship's sides, and fell like a cataract -of rubies under the red sunlight. We sat there till evening came down: -the sea, from brilliant azure, grew black as unknown things, the wind -freshened, and we left our cold stand to walk, or rather run, up and -down the deck to warm ourselves. This we continued till, one by one, the -stars had lit their lamps in heaven: their wondrous brilliancy, together -with the Aurora Borealis, which rushed like sheeted ghosts along the -sky, and the stream of fire that shone round the ship's way, made heaven -and sea appear like one vast world of flame, as though the thin blue -veil of air and the dark curtain of the waters were but drawn across a -universe of light. Mercy, how strange it was! We stood at the stern, -watching the milky wake the ship left as she stole through the eddying -waters. Came back to our gipsy encampment, where, by the light of a -lantern, we supped and sang sundry scraps of old songs. At ten came to -bed. - - * * * * * - -Took an observation of the sun's altitude at noon, and saw them hoist a -main-top-royal sail, which looked very pretty as it was unreefed against -the clear sky. - - -_Monday, 20th._ - -Calm--utter calm--a roasting August sun, a waveless sea, the sails -flapping idly against the mast, and our black cradle rocking to and fro -without progressing a step. They lowered the boat, and went out -rowing--I wanted to go, but they would not let me! A brig was standing -some four miles off us, which, by the by, I was the first to see, except -our mate, in my morning watch, which began at five o'clock, when I saw -the moon set and the sun rise, and feel more than ever convinced that -absolute reality is away from the purpose of works of art. The sky this -morning was as like the sea shore as ever sand and shingle were, the -clouds lying along the horizon in pale dusky yellow layers, and higher -up, floating in light brown ribbed masses, like the sands which grow -wrinkled under the eternal smiling of the sea. Against the dim horizon, -which blended with the violet-coloured sky, the mate then showed me, -through the glass, the brig standing on the sea's edge, for all the -world like one of the tiny birds who were wheeling and chirping round -our ship's stern. I have done more in the shape of work to-day than any -since the two first I spent on board; translated a German fable without -much trouble, read a canto in Dante, ending with a valuation of fame. "O -spirito gentil!" how lived fair wisdom in your soul--how shines she in -your lays!--Wrote journal, walked about, worked at my cap, in the -evening danced merrily enough, quadrilles, country dances, La -Boulangère, and the monaco; fairly danced myself tired. Came to bed. But -oh! not to sleep--mercy, what a night! The wind blowing like mad, the -sea rolling, the ship pitching, bouncing, shuddering, and reeling, like -a thing possessed. I lay awake, listening to her creaking and groaning, -till two o'clock, when, sick of my sleepless berth, I got up and was -going up stairs, to see, at least, how near drowning we were, when -D----, who was lying awake too, implored me to lie down again. I did so -for the hundred and eleventh time, complaining bitterly that I should be -stuffed down in a loathsome berth, cabined, cribbed, confined, while the -sea was boiling below, and the wind bellowing above us. Lay till -daylight, the gale increasing furiously; boxes, chairs, beds, and their -contents, wooden valuables, and human invaluables, rolling about and -clinging to one another in glorious confusion. At about eight o'clock, a -tremendous sea took the ship in the waist, and, rushing over the deck, -banged against our sky-light, and bounced into our cabin. Three women -were immediately apparent from their respective cribs, and poor H---- -appeared in all her lengthy full-length, and came and took refuge with -me. As I held her in my arms, and put my cloak round her, she shook from -head to foot, poor child!--I was not the least frightened, but rather -excited by this invasion of Dan Neptune's; but I wish to goodness I had -been on deck.--Oh, how I wish I had seen that spoonful of salt water -flung from the sea's boiling bowl! I heard afterwards, that it had -nearly washed away poor Mr. ----, besides handsomely ducking and -frightening our military man. Lay all day on my back, most wretched, the -ship heaving like any earthquake; in fact, there is something -irresistibly funny in the way in which people seem dispossessed of their -power of volition by this motion, rushing hither and thither in all -directions but the one they purpose going, and making as many angles, -fetches, and sidelong deviations from the point they aim at, as if the -devil had tied a string to their legs and jerked it every now and then -in spite--by the by, not a bad illustration of our mental and moral -struggles towards their legitimate aims. Another horrible night! oh -horror! - - -_Wednesday, 22d._ - -A fair wind--a fine day--though very very cold and damp. It seems, in -our squall last night, we had also a small piece of mutiny. During the -mate's watch, and while the storm was at the worst, the man who was -steering left the helm, and refused to obey orders; whereupon Mr. Curtis -took up a hatchet, and assured him he would knock his brains out,--which -the captain said, had it been his watch, he should have done on the -spot, and without further warning. We are upon the Newfoundland banks, -though not yet on soundings. Stitched my gown--worked at my -nightcap--walked about:--Mr. ---- read Quentin Durward to us while we -worked. The extreme cold made us take refuge in our cabin, where I sat -working and singing till dinner-time. Dined at table again; afterwards -came back to our cabin--began writing journal, and was interrupted by -hearing a bustle in the dinner-room. The gentlemen were all standing up, -and presently I heard Walter Scott's name passed round:--it made me lay -down my pen. Oh! how pleasant it sounded--that unanimous blessing of -strangers upon a great and good man, thus far from him--from all but our -own small community. The genuine and spontaneous tribute to moral worth -and mental power! Poor, poor Sir Walter! And yet no prayer that can be -breathed to bless, no grateful and soul felt invocation, can snatch him -from the common doom of earth-born flesh, or buy away one hour's anguish -and prostration of body and spirit, before the triumphant infirmities of -our miserable nature. I thought of Dante's lines, that I read but a day -ago; and yet--and yet--fame is something. His fame is good--is great--is -glorious. To be enshrined in the hearts of all virtuous and wise men, as -the friend of virtue and the teacher of wisdom; to have freely given -pleasure, happiness, forgetfulness, to millions of his fellow-creatures; -to have made excellence lovely, and enjoyment pure and salutary; to have -taught none but lessons of honour and integrity; to have surrounded his -memory, and filled the minds of all men with images fair, and bright, -and wonderful, yet left around his name no halo, and in the hearts of -others no slightest cloud to blot these enchanting creations; to have -done nothing but good with God's good gifts--is not this fame worth -something? 'Tis worth man's love, and God's approval--'tis worth -toiling for, living for, and dying for. He has earned it fairly--he is a -great and good man--peace be with him in his hour of mortal sorrow, and -eternal peace hereafter in the heaven to which he surely goes. They then -drank Washington Irving,--a gentle spirit, too. After working for some -time more, came on deck, where we danced with infinite glee, disturbed -only by the surpassing uproar of Colonel ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The only of our crew whom I cotton to fairly, are the ----, and that -good-natured lad, Mr. ----: though the former rather distress me by -their abundant admiration, and the latter by his inveterate Yorkshire, -and never opening his mouth when he sings, which, as he has a very sweet -voice, is a cruel piece of selfishness, keeping half his tones, and all -his words, for his own private satisfaction. - - -_Thursday, 23d._ - -On soundings, and nearly off them again--a fine day;--worked at my -nightcap--another, by the by, having finished one--exemplary!--Walked -about, ate, drank, wrote journal--read some of it to the ----, who -seemed much gratified by my doing so. I go on with Byron's life. He is -loo much of an egotist. I do not like him a bit the better for knowing -his prose mind;--far from thinking it redeems any of the errors of his -poetical man, I think I never read any thing professing to be a person's -undisguised feelings and opinions, with so much heartlessness--so little -goodness in it. His views of society are like his views of human nature; -or rather, by the by, reverse the sentence, to prove the fallacy in -judgment; and though his satire is keen and true, yet he is nothing but -satirical--never, never serious and earnest, even with himself. Oh! I -have a horror of that sneering devil of Goethe's; and he seems to me to -have possessed Byron utterly. A curious thought, or rather a fantastical -shadow of a thought, occurred to me to-day in reading a chapter in the -Corinthians about the resurrection. I mean to be buried with H----'s -ring on my finger; will it be there when I rise again?--What a question -for the discussers of the needle's point controversy! My father read to -us, this afternoon, part of one of Webster's speeches. It was very -eloquent, but yet it did not fulfil my idea of perfect oratory--inasmuch -as I thought it too pictorial:--there was too much scenery and -decoration about it, to use the cant of my own trade;--there was too -much effect, theatrical effect in it, from which Heaven defend me, for I -do loathe it _in_ its place, and fifty times worse out of it. Perhaps -Webster's speaking is a good sample, in its own line, of the leaven -wherewith these times are leavened. I mean only in its defects--for its -merits are sterling, and therefore of all time. - -But this oil and canvass style of thinking, writing, and speaking, is -bad. I wish our age were more sculptural in its genius--though I have -not the power in any thing to conform thereto, I have the grace to -perceive its higher excellence: yet Milton was a sculptor, Shakspeare a -painter. How do we get through that?--My reason for objecting to -Webster's style--though the tears were in my eyes several times while my -father read--is precisely the same as my reason for not altogether -liking my father's reading--'tis slightly theatrical--something too much -of passion, something too much of effect--but perhaps I am mistaken; for -I do so abhor the slightest approach to the lamps and orange peel, that -I had almost rather hear a "brazen candlestick turned on a wheel," than -all the music of due emphasis and inflection, if allied to a theatrical -manner.--Dined at table again. They abound in toasts, and, among others, -gave "The friends we have left, and those we are going to!" My heart -sank. I am going to no friend; and the "stranger," with which the -Americans salute wayfarers through their land, is the only title I can -claim amongst them. After dinner, walked about--danced--saw the sun sink -in a bed of gorgeous stormy clouds;--worked and walked till bed-time.--I -was considerably amused, and my English blood a little roused at a very -good-natured and well-meant caution of Mr. ----, to avoid making an -enemy of Colonel ----. He is, they say, a party man, having influence -which he may exert to our detriment. - - -_Friday, 24th._ - -Rose late after a fair night's sleep--came up to the round-house. After -breakfast, worked and walked for an immense time. Read a canto in Dante: -just as I had finished it, "A sail! a sail!" was cried from all -quarters. Remembering my promise to dear H----, I got together my -writing-materials, and scrawled her a few incoherent lines full of my -very heart. The vessel bore rapidly down upon us, but as there was no -prospect of either her or our lying-to, Mr. ---- tied my missive, -together with one Mr. ---- had just scribbled, to a lump of lead, and -presently we all rushed on deck to see the ship pass us. She was an -English packet, from Valparaiso, bound to London; her foremast had been -carried away, but she was going gallantly before the wind. As she passed -us, Mr. ---- got up into the boat, to have a better chance of throwing. -I saw him fling powerfully,--the little packet whizzed through the air, -but the distance was impossible, and the dark waters received it within -twenty feet of the ship, which sailed rapidly on, and had soon left us -far behind. I believe I screamed, as the black sea closed over my poor -letter. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came down to my cabin and cried like a wretch--came up again, and found -them all at lunch. Went and lay on the bowsprit, watching the fair ship -courtesying through the bright sea with all her sail set, a gallant and -graceful sight. Came in--wrote journal--translated a German fable. -Worked at my cap, while my father went on with Webster's speech. I am -still of the same mind about it, though some of the passages he read -to-day were finer than any I had heard before. He gets over a shallow -descent with admirable plausibility--and yet I think I would rather be -descended from a half heathen Saxon giant, than from William Penn -himself. We dined at table again; D---- could not: she was ill. After -dinner, sat working for some time;--I had a horrid sick headach,--walked -on deck. The wind and sea were both rising; we stood by the side of the -ship, and watched the inky waters swelling themselves, and rolling -sullenly towards us, till they broke in silver clouds against the ship, -and sprang above her sides, covering us with spray. The sky had grown -mirk as midnight, and the wind that came rushing over the sea was hot -from the south. We staid out till it grew dark. At ten, the crazy old -ship, in one of her headlong bounces, flung my whole supper in my lap; -the wind and water were riotous; the ship plunged and shuddered. After -screwing my courage to a game of speculation, I was obliged to leave it, -and my companions. Came down and went to bed.--Oh horror! loathsome -life!-- - - -_Saturday and Sunday._ - -Towards evening got up and came on deck:--tremendous head wind, going -off our course; pray Heaven we don't make an impromptu landing on Sable -Island! Sat on the ship's side, watching the huge ocean gathering itself -up into pitchy mountains, and rolling its vast ridges, one after -another, against the good ship, who dipped, and dipped, and dived down -into the black chasm, and then sprang up again, and rode over the -swelling surges like an empress. The sky was a mass of stormy black, -here and there edged with a copper-looking cloud, and breaking in one or -two directions into pale silvery strata, that had an unhealthy lightning -look: a heavy black squall lay ahead of us, like a dusky curtain, whence -we saw the rain, fringe-like, pouring down against the horizon. The wind -blew furiously. I got cradled among the ropes, so as not to be pitched -off when the ship lurched, and enjoyed it all amazingly. It was sad and -solemn, and, but for the excitement of the savage-looking waves, that -every now and then lifted their overwhelming sides against us, it would -have made me melancholy: but it stirred my spirits to ride over these -huge sea-horses, that came bounding and bellowing round us. Remained -till I was chilled with the bitter wind, and wet through with -spray;--walked up and down the deck for some time,--had scarce set foot -within the round-house, when a sea took her in midships, and soused the -loiterers. Sat up, or rather slept up, till ten o'clock, and then went -down to bed. I took up Pelham to-day for a second--'t is amazingly -clever, and like the thing it means to be, to boot. Heard something -funny that I wish to remember--at a Methodist meeting, the singer who -led the Psalm tune, finding that his concluding word, which was Jacob, -had not syllables enough to fill up the music adequately, ended -thus--Ja-a-a-a--Ja-a-a-a--fol-de-riddle--cob!-- - - -_Monday, 26th._ - -Read Byron's life;--defend me from my friends! Rose tolerably late; -after breakfast, took a walk on deck--lay and slept under our sea-tent; -read on until lunch-time--dined on deck. After dinner walked about with -H---- and the captain; we had seated ourselves on the ship's side, but -he being called away, we rushed off to the forecastle to enjoy the -starlight by ourselves. We sat for a little time, but were soon found -out; Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- joined us, and we sat till near twelve -o'clock, singing and rocking under the stars. Venus--"The star of love, -all stars above,"--threw a silver column down the sea, like the younger -sister of the moon's reflection. By the by, I saw to-day, and with -delight, an American sunset. The glorious god strode down heaven's hill, -without a cloud to dim his downward path;--as his golden disk touched -the panting sea, I turned my head away, and in less than a minute he had -fallen beneath the horizon--leapt down into the warm waves, and left one -glow of amber round half the sky; upon whose verge, where the violet -curtain of twilight came spreading down to meet its golden fringe, - - - "The maiden, - With white fire laden, - Whom mortals call the moon," - - -stood, with her silver lamp in her hand, and her pale misty robes -casting their wan lustre faintly around her. Oh me, how glorious it was! -how sad, how very very sad I was! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - - Dear, yet forbidden thoughts, that from my soul, - While shines the weary sun, with stern control - I drive away; why, when my spirits lie - Shrouded in the cold sleep of misery, - Do ye return, to mock me with false dreaming, - Where love, and all life's happiness is beaming? - Oh visions fair! that one by one have gone - Down, 'neath the dark horizon of my days, - Let not your pale reflection linger on - In the bleak sky, where live no more your rays. - Night! silent nurse, that with thy solemn eyes - Hang'st o'er the rocking cradle of the world, - Oh! be thou darker to my dreaming eyes, - Nor, in my slumbers, be the past unfurl'd. - Haunt me no more with whisperings from the dead. - The dead in heart, the changed, the withered: - Bring me no more sweet blossoms from my spring, - Which round my soul their early fragrance fling, - And, when the morning, with chill icy start, - Wakes me, hang blighted round my aching heart: - Oh night, and slumber, be ye visionless, - Dark as the grave, deep as forgetfulness! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - Night, thou shalt nurse me, but be sure, good nurse, - While sitting by my bed, that thou art silent; - I will not let thee sing me to my slumbers - With the sweet lullabies of former times, - Nor tell me tales, as other gossips wont, - Of the strange fairy days, that are all gone. - - -_Wednesday, 28th._ - -Skipped writing on Tuesday--so much the better--a miserable day spent -between heart-ach and side-ach. - - * * * * * - -Rose late, breakfasted with H----, afterwards went and sat on the -forecastle, where I worked the whole morning, woman's work, stitching. -It was intensely hot till about two o'clock, when a full east wind came -on, which the sailors all blessed, but which shook from its cold wings a -heavy, clammy, chilly dew, that presently pierced all our clothes, and -lay on the deck like rain. At dinner we were very near having a scene: -the Bostonian and the Jacksonite falling out again about the President; -and a sharp, quick, snapping conversation, which degenerated into a -snarl on one side, and a growl on the other, for a short time rather -damped the spirits of the table. Here, at least, General Jackson seems -very unpopular, and half the company echoed in earnest what I said in -jest to end the dispute, "Oh hang General Jackson!" After dinner, -returned to the forecastle with H---- to see the sun set; her brother -followed us thither. - - * * * * * - -Finished my work, and then, tying on sundry veils and handkerchiefs, -danced on deck for some time;--I then walked about with ----, by the -light of the prettiest young moon imaginable. - - * * * * * - -Afterwards sat working and stifling in the round-house till near ten, -and then, being no longer able to endure the heat, came down, undressed, -and sat luxuriously on the ground in my dressing-gown drinking lemonade. -At twelve went to bed; the men kept up a horrible row on deck half the -night; singing, dancing, whooping, and running over our heads. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The captain brought me to-day a land-swallow, which, having flown out so -far, came hovering exhausted over the ship, and suffered itself to be -caught. Poor little creature! how very much more I do love all things -than men and women! I felt sad to death for its weary little wings and -frightened heart, which beat against my hand, without its having -strength to struggle. I made a cage in a basket for it, and gave it some -seed, which it will not eat--little carnivorous wretch! I must catch -some flies for it. - - -_Thursday, 29th._ - -My poor little bird is dead. I am sorry! I could mourn almost as much -over the death of a soulless animal, as I would rejoice at that of a -brute with a soul. Life is to these winged things a pure enjoyment; and -to see the rapid pinions folded, and the bright eye filmed, conveys -sadness to the heart, for 'tis almost like looking on--what indeed is -not--utter cessation of existence. Poor little creature! I wished it had -not died--I would but have borne it tenderly and carefully to shore, and -given it back to the air again! - - * * * * * - -I sat down stairs in my cabin all day; the very spirit of doggerel -possessed me, and I poured forth rhymes as rapidly as possible, and they -were as bad as possible.--Wrote journal; in looking over my papers, fell -in with the Star of Seville--some of it is very good. I'll write an -English tragedy next. Dined at table--our heroes have drunk wine, and -are amicable. After dinner, went on deck, and took a short walk; saw the -sun set, which he did like a god, as he is, leaving the sky like a -geranium curtain, which overshadowed the sea with rosy light--beautiful! -Came down and sat on the floor like a Turkish woman, stitching, singing, -and talking, till midnight; supped--and to bed. My appetite seems like -the Danaïdes' tub, of credible memory. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Friday, 30th._ - -On soundings. A fog and a calm. Sky yellow, sea grey, dripping, damp, -dingy, dark, and very disagreeable. Sat working, reading, and talking in -our own cabin all day. Read part of a book called Adventures of a -Younger Son. The gentlemen amused themselves with fishing, and brought -up sundry hake and dog-fish. I examined the heart of one of the fish, -and was surprised at the long continuance of pulsation after the -cessation of existence. In the evening, sang, talked, and played French -blind man's buff;--sat working till near one o'clock, and reading -Moore's Fudge Family,--which is good fun. It's too hard to be becalmed -within thirty hours of our destination. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - - Why art thou weeping - Over the happy, happy dead, - Who are gone away - From this life of clay, - From this fount of tears, - From this burthen of years, - From sin, from sorrow, - From sad "to-morrow," - From struggling and creeping: - Why art thou weeping, - Oh fool, for the dead? - - Why art thou weeping - Over the steadfast faithful dead, - Who can never change, - Nor grow cold and strange, - - Nor turn away, - In a single day, - From the love they bore, - And the faith they swore; - Who are true for ever, - Will slight thee never, - But love thee still, - Through good and ill, - With the constancy - Of eternity: - Why art thou weeping, - Oh fool, for the dead? - - They are your only friends; - For where this foul life ends, - Alone beginneth truth, and love, and faith; - All which sweet blossoms are preserved by death. - - -_Saturday, 31st._ - -Becalmed again till about two o'clock, when a fair wind sprang up, and -we set to rolling before it like mad. How curious it is to see the ship, -like a drunken man, reel through the waters, pursued by that shrill -scold the wind! Worked at my handkerchief, and read aloud to them Mrs. -Jameson's book. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Set my foot half into a discussion about Portia, but withdrew it in -time. Lord bless us! what foul nonsense people do talk, and what much -fouler nonsense it is to answer them. Got very sick, and lay on the -ground till dinner-time; went to table, but withdrew again while it was -yet in my power to do so gracefully. Lay on the floor all the evening, -singing for very sea-sickness; suddenly it occurred to me, that it was -our last Saturday night on board; whereupon I indited a song to the tune -of "To Ladies' eyes a round, boys,"--and having duly instructed Mr. ---- -how to "speak the speech," we went to supper. _Last_--_last_--dear, what -is there in that word! I don't know one of this ship's company, don't -care for some of them--I have led a loathsome life in it for a month -past, and yet the _last_ Saturday night seemed half sad to me. Mr. ---- -sang my song and kept my secret: the song was encored, and my father -innocently demanded the author; I gave him a tremendous pinch, and -looked very silly. Merit, like murder, will out; so I fancy that when -they drank the health of the author, the whole table was aware of the -genius that sat among them. They afterwards sang a clever parody of "To -all ye ladies now on land," by Mr. ----, the "canny Scot," who has kept -himself so quiet all the way. Came to bed at about half-past twelve: -while undressing, I heard the captain come down stairs, and announce -that we were clear of Nantucket shoal, and within one hundred and fifty -miles of New York, which intelligence was received with three cheers. -They continued to sing and shout till very late. - - -SATURDAY NIGHT SONG. - - Come, fill the can again, boys, - One parting glass, one parting glass; - Ere we shall meet again, boys, - Long years may pass, long years may pass. - We'll drink the gallant bark, boys, - That's borne us through, that's borne us through, - Bright waves and billows dark, boys, - Our ship and crew, our ship and crew. - - We'll drink those eyes that bright, boys, - With smiling ray, with smiling ray, - Have shone like stars to light, boys, - Our watery way, our watery way. - We'll drink our English home, boys, - Our father land, our father land, - And the shores to which we're come, boys, - A sister strand, a sister strand. - - -_Sunday, September 2d._ - -Rose at half-past six: the sun was shining brilliantly; woke H---- and -went on deck with her. The morning was glorious, the sun had risen two -hours in the sky, the sea was cut by a strong breeze, and curled into -ridges that came like emerald banks crowned with golden spray round our -ship; she was going through the water at nine knots an hour. I sat and -watched the line of light that lay like a fairy road to the -east--towards my country, my dear dear home. - - * * * * * - -Breakfasted at table for the first time since I've been on board the -ship--I did hope, the last. After breakfast, put my things to rights, -tidied our cabin for prayers, and began looking out the lessons; while -doing so, the joyful sound, "Land, land!" was heard aloft. I rushed on -deck, and between the blue waveless sea, and the bright unclouded sky, -lay the wished-for line of darker element. 'Twas Long Island: through a -glass I descried the undulations of the coast, and even the trees that -stood relieved against the sky. Hail, strange land! my heart greets you -coldly and sadly! Oh, how I thought of Columbus, as with eyes strained -and on tiptoe our water-weary passengers stood, after a summer's sail of -thirty days, welcoming their mother earth! The day was heavenly, though -intensely hot, the sky utterly cloudless, and, by that same token, I do -not love a cloudless sky. They tell me that this is their American -weather almost till Christmas; that's nice, for those who like frying. -Commend me to dear England's soft, rich, sad, harmonious skies and -foliage--commend me to the misty curtain of silver vapour that hangs -over her September woods at morning, and shrouds them at night;--in -short, I am home-sick before touching land. After lunch, my father read -prayers to us, and that excellent sermon of dear Mr. Thurstone's on -taking the sacrament. After prayers, came on deck; there were two or -three sails in sight--hailed a schooner which passed us--bad news of the -cholera--pleasant this--walked about, collected goods and chattels, -wrote journal, spent some time in seeing a couple of geese take a -sea-swim with strings tied to their legs. After dinner, sat in my cabin -some time--walked on deck; when the gentlemen joined us, we danced the -sun down, and the moon up. The sky was like the jewel-shop of angels; I -never saw such brilliant stars, nor so deep an azure to hang them in. -The moon was grown powerful, and flooded the deck, where we sat playing -at blind man's buff, magic music, and singing, and talking of shore till -midnight, when we came to bed. I must not forget how happy an omen -greeted us this morning. As we stood watching the "_dolce color di -oriental zaffiro_," one of the wild wood pigeons of America flew round -our mizen-mast, and alighted on the top-sail yard;--this was the first -living creature which welcomed us to the New World, and it pleased my -superstitious fancy. I would have given any thing to have caught the -bird, but, after resting itself awhile, it took flight again and left -us. We were talking to-day to one of our steerage passengers, a -Huddersfield manufacturer, going out in quest of a living, with five -children of his own to take care of, and two nephews. The father of the -latter, said our Yorkshireman, having married a second time, and these -poor children being as it were "_thristen_ (thrust) out into the world -loike--whoy oi jist took care of them." Verily, verily, he will have his -reward--these tender mercies of the poor to one another are beautiful, -and most touching. - - -_Monday, September 3d._ - -I had desired the mate to call me by sunrise, and accordingly, in the -midst of a very sound and satisfactory sleep, Mr. Curtis shook me -roughly by the arm, informing me that the sun was just about to rise. -The glorious god was quicker at his toilet than I at mine; for though I -did but put on a dressing-gown and cloak, I found him come out of his -eastern chamber, arrayed like a bridegroom, without a single beam -missing. I called H----, and we remained on deck watching the clouds -like visions of brightness and beauty, enchanted creations of some -strange spell-land--at every moment assuming more fantastic shapes and -gorgeous tints. Dark rocks seemed to rise, with dazzling summits of -light pale lakes of purest blue spread here and there between--the sun -now shining through a white wreath of floating silver, now firing, with -a splendour that the eye shrank from, the edges of some black cloudy -mass. Oh, it was surpassing!--We were becalmed, however, which rather -damped all our spirits, and half made the captain swear. Towards mid-day -we had to thank Heaven for an incident. A brig had been standing aft -against the horizon for some hours past, and we presently descried a -boat rowing from her towards us. The distance was some five miles, the -sun broiling; we telescoped and stood on tiptoe; they rowed stoutly, and -in due time boarded us. She was an English brig from Bristol, had been -out eleven weeks, distressed by contrary winds, and was in want of -provisions. The boat's crew was presently surrounded, grog was given the -men, porter to the captain and his companion. Our dear captain supplied -them with every thing they wanted, and our poor steerage passengers sent -their mite to the distressed crew in the shape of a sack of potatoes; -they remained half an hour on board, we clustering round them, -questioning and answering might and main. As H---- said, they were new -faces at least, and, though two of the most ill-favoured physiognomies I -ever set eyes on, there was something refreshing even in their ugly -novelty. After this the whole day was one of continual excitement, -nearing the various points of land, greeting vessels passing us, and -watching those bound on the same course. At about four o'clock a -schooner came alongside with a news-collector; he was half devoured with -queries; news of the cholera, reports of the tariff and bank questions, -were loudly demanded: poor people, how anxiously they looked for replies -to the first! Mr. ----, upon whose arm I leant, turned pale as death -while asking how it had visited Boston. Poor fellow! poor people all! my -heart ached with their anxiety. As the evening darkened, the horizon -became studded with sails; at about eight o'clock we discovered the -Highlands of Neversink, the entrance to New York harbour, and presently -the twin lights of Sandy Hook glimmered against the sky. We were all in -high spirits; a fresh breeze had sprung up, we were making rapidly to -land; the lovely ship, with all sail set, courtesying along the smooth -waters. The captain alone seemed anxious, and was eagerly looking out -for the pilot. Some had gathered to the ship's side, to watch the -progress of Colonel ----, who had left us and gone into the news-boat, -which was dancing like a fairy by the side of our dark vessel. Cheering -resounded on all sides, rockets were fired from the ship's stern, we -were all dancing, when suddenly a cry was echoed round of "A pilot, a -pilot!" and close under the ship's side a light graceful little schooner -shot like an arrow through the dim twilight, followed by a universal -huzza; she tacked, and lay to, but proved only a news-boat: while, -however, all were gathered round the collector, the pilot-boat came -alongside, and the pilot on board; the captain gave up the cares and -glories of command, and we danced an interminable country dance. All was -excitement and joyous confusion; poor Mr. ---- alone seemed smitten with -sudden anxiety; the cholera reports had filled him with alarm, lest his -agent should have died, and his affairs on his arrival be in confusion -and ruin--poor fellow! I was very sorry for him. We went down to supper -at ten, and were very merry, in spite of the ship's bumping twice or -thrice upon the sands. Came up and dawdled upon deck--saw them cast -anchor; away went the chain, down dropped the heavy stay, the fair ship -swung round, and there lay New York before us, with its clustered lights -shining like a distant constellation against the dark outline of land. -Remained on deck till very late--were going to bed, when the gentlemen -entreated us to join their party once more; we did so, sang all the old -songs, laughed at all the old jokes, drank our own and each other's -health, wealth, and prosperity, and came to bed at two o'clock. Our -cradle rocks no longer, but lies still on the still waters; we have -reached our destination; I thank God! I did so with all my soul. - - -_Tuesday, September 4th, -New York, America._ - -It is true, by my faith! it is true; there it is written, here I sit, I -am myself and no other, this is New York and nowhere else--Oh! -"singular, strange!" Our passengers were all stirring and about at peep -of day, and I got up myself at half past six. Trunks lay scattered in -every direction around, and all were busily preparing to leave the good -ship Pacific. Mercy on us! it made me sad to leave her and my shipmates. -I feel like a wretch swept down a river to the open sea, and catch at -the last boughs that hang over the banks to stay me from that wide -loneliness. The morning was real Manchester. I believe some of the -passengers had brought the fog and rain in their English clothes, which -they were all putting on, together with best hats, dandy cravats, -etc.--to make a _sensation_. A fog hung over the shores of Staten Island -and Long Island, in spite of which, and a dreary, heavy, thick rain, I -thought the hilly outline of the former very beautiful; the trees and -grass were rather sunburnt, but in a fair spring day I should think it -must be lovely. We breakfasted, and packed ourselves into our shawls and -bonnets, and at half-past nine the steam-boat came alongside to take us -to shore: it was different from any English steam-boat I ever saw, -having three decks, and being consequently a vessel of very considerable -size. We got on board her all in the rain and misery, and, as we drifted -on, our passengers collected to the side of the boat, and gave "The dear -old Lady" three cheers. Poor ship! there she lay--all sails reefed, -rocking in melancholy inaction, deserted by her merry inmates, lonely -and idle--poor Pacific! I should like to return in that ship; I would -willingly skip a passage in order to do so. All were looking at the -shores; some wondering and admiring, others recognising through the rain -and mist, as best they might; I could not endure to lift my eyes to the -strange land, and, even had I done so, was crying too bitterly to see -any thing. Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- went to secure apartments for us at the -American Hotel; and, after bidding good-by to the sea, we packed -ourselves into a hackney coach, and progressed. The houses are almost -all painted glaring white or red; the other favourite colours appear to -be pale straw colour and grey. They have all green Venetian shutters, -which give an idea of coolness, and almost every house has a tree or -trees in its vicinity, which looks pretty and garden-like. We reached -our inn,--the gentlemen were waiting for us, and led us to our -drawing-room. I had been choking for the last three hours, and could -endure no more, but sobbed like a wretch aloud. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -There was a piano in the room, to which I flew with the appetite of one -who has lived on the music of the speaking-trumpet for a month; that, -and some iced lemonade and cake, presently restored my spirits. I went -on playing and singing till I was exhausted, and then sat down and wrote -journal. Mr. ---- went out and got me Sir Humphry Davy's Salmonia, which -I had been desiring, and he had been speaking of on board ship. - -At five o'clock we all met once more together to dinner. Our -drawing-room being large and pleasant, the table was laid in it. 'Tis -curious how an acquaintanceship of thirty days has contrived to bind -together in one common feeling of kindness and good-fellowship persons -who never met before, who may never meet again. To-morrow we all -separate, to betake ourselves each to our several path; and, as if loath -to part company, they all agreed to meet once more on the eve of doing -so, probably for ever. How strongly this clinging principle is inherent -in our nature! These men have no fine sympathies of artificial creation, -and this exhibition of _adhesiveness_ is in them a real and heart-sprung -feeling. It touched me--indeed it may well do so; for friends of thirty -days are better than utter strangers, and when these my shipmates shall -be scattered abroad, there will be no human being left near us whose -face we know, or whose voice is familiar to us. Our dinner was a -favourable specimen of eating as practised in this new world; every -thing good, only in too great a profusion; the wine drinkable, and the -fruit beautiful to look at: in point of flavour it was infinitely -inferior to English hothouse fruit, or even fine espalier fruit raised -in a good aspect. Every thing was wrapped in ice, which is a most -luxurious necessary in this hot climate; but the things were put on the -table in a slovenly outlandish fashion; fish, soup, and meat, at once, -and puddings, and tarts, and cheese, at another once; no finger-glasses, -and a patched table-cloth,--in short, a want of that style and neatness -which is found in every hotel in England. The waiters, too, reminded us -of the half-savage Highland lads that used to torment us under that -denomination in Glasgow--only that they were wild Irish instead of wild -Scotch. The day had cleared, and become intensely hot, towards evening -softening and cooling under the serene influences of the loveliest moon -imaginable. The streets were brilliantly lighted, the shops through the -trees, and the people parading between them, reminded me very much of -the Boulevards. We left the gentlemen, and went down stairs, where I -played and sang for three hours. On opening the door, I found a junta of -men sitting on the hall floor, round it, and smoking. Came up for -coffee; most of the gentlemen were rather elated,--we sang, and danced, -and talked, and seemed exceeding loath to say good-by. I sat listening -to the dear Doctor's theory of the nature of the soul, which savoured -infinitely more of the spirituality of the bottle than of immaterial -existences. I heard him descant very tipsily upon the vital principle, -until my fatigue getting fairly the better of my affection for him, I -bade our remaining guests good night, and came to bed. - - -_Wednesday, 5th._ - -I have been in a sulky fit half the day, because people will keep -walking in and out of our room, without leave or license, which is -coming a great deal too soon to Hope's idea of Heaven. I am delighted to -see my friends, but I like to tell them so, and not that they should -take it for granted. When I made my appearance in my dressing-gown (my -clothes not being come, and the day too hot for a silk pelisse), great -was my amazement to find our whole ship's company assembled at the -table. After breakfast they dispersed, and I sat writing journal, and -playing, and singing. Colonel ---- and Mr. ---- called. Our Boston -friends leave us to-day for their homes. I am sorry to lose them, though -I think H---- will be the better for rest. Mrs. ---- called to see D---- -to-day. I remember her name, as one of the first things I do remember. A -visit from a Mr. ----, one of the directors of the Custom-House, and -W---- P----, brother to the proprietor of the Park theatre, who is a -lawyer of considerable reputation here. The face of the first was good, -the other's clever. I said nothing, as usual, and let them depart in -peace. We dined at half-past two, with the H----s and Mr. ----. At -half-past three we walked down to the quay to convoy them to their -steam-boat, which looked indeed like a "castle on the main." We saw them -on board, went down and looked at the state cabin, which was a -magnificent room, and would have done charmingly for a gallopade. We -bade our new friends, whom I like better than some old ones, good-by, -and walked briskly on to the Battery, to see them as they passed it. The -sun was intensely hot; and as I struggled forward, hooked up to this -young Sheffield giant, I thought we were the living illustration of -Hood's "Long and Short" of it. We gained the battery, and saw the -steam-boat round; our travellers kept the deck with "hat and glove and -handkerchief," as long as we could see them. This Battery is a beautiful -marine parade, commanding the harbour and entrance of the bay, with -Governor's Island, and its dusky red fort, and the woody shores of New -Jersey and Long Island. A sort of public promenade, formed of grass -plots, planted with a variety of trees, affords a very agreeable -position from whence to enjoy the lovely view. My companion informed me -that this was a fashionable resort some time ago; but owing to its -being frequented by the lowest and dirtiest of the rabble, who in this -land of liberty roll themselves on the grass, and otherwise annoy the -more respectable portion of the promenaders, it has been much deserted -lately, and is now only traversed by the higher classes as a -thoroughfare. The trees and grass were vividly and luxuriantly green; -but the latter grew rank and long, unshorn and untidy. "Oh," thought I, -"for a pair of English shears, to make these green carpets as smooth and -soft and thick as the close-piled Genoa velvet." It looked neglected and -slovenly. Came home up Broadway, which is a long street of tolerable -width, full of shops, in short the American Oxford Road, where all -people go to exhibit themselves and examine others. The women that I -have seen hitherto have all been very gaily dressed, with a pretension -to French style, and a more than English exaggeration of it. They all -appear to me to walk with a French shuffle, which, as their pavements -are flat, I can only account for by their wearing shoes made in the -French fashion, which are enough in themselves to make a waddler of the -best walker that ever set foot to earth. Two or three were pretty girls; -but the town being quite empty, these are probably bad specimens of the -graces and charms that adorn Broadway in its season of shining. Came -home and had tea; after which my father, I, and Mr. ---- crossed the -Park (a small bit of grass enclosed in white palings, in plain English, -a green) to the theatre. Wallack was to act in the Rent Day. Mercy, how -strange I felt as I once more set foot in a theatre; the sound of the -applause set my teeth on edge. The house is pretty, though rather -gloomy, well formed, about the size of the Haymarket, with plenty of -gold carving, and red silk about it, looking rich and warm. The audience -was considerable, but all men; scarce, I should think, twenty women in -the dress circle, where, by the by, as well as in the private boxes, I -saw men sitting with their hats on. The Rent Day is a thorough -melodrama, only the German monster has put on a red waistcoat and top -boots. Nathless this is a good thing of a bad sort: the incidents, -though not all probable, or even as skilfully tacked together as they -might be, are striking and dramatically effective, and the whole piece -turns on those home feelings, those bitterest realities of every-day -life, that wring one's heart, beyond the pain that one allows works of -fiction to excite. As for the imitation of Wilkie's pictures, the first -was very pretty, but the second I did not see, my face being buried in -my handkerchief, besides having a quarter less seven fathom of tears -over it, at the time. I cried most bitterly during the whole piece; for -as in his very first scene Wallack asks his wife if she will go with him -to America, and she replies, "What! leave the farm?" I set off from -thence and ceased no more. The manager's wife and another woman were in -the box, which was his, and I thought we should have carried away the -front of it with our tears. Wallack played admirably: I had never seen -him before, and was greatly delighted with his acting. I thought him -handsome of a rustic kind, the very thing for the part he played, a fine -English yeoman: he reminded me of ----. At the end of the play, came -home with a tremendous headach: sat gossiping and drinking lemonade. -Presently a tap at the door came, and through the door came Mr. ----. I -shook hands with him, and began expatiating on the impertinence of -people's not enquiring down stairs whether we were at home or not before -they came up--I don't believe he took my idea. Mr. ---- came in to bid -us good-by: he starts to-morrow for Baltimore. He is a nice -good-tempered young Irishman, with more tongue than brains, but still -clever enough: I am sorry he is going. Came to bed-room at eleven, -remained up till one, unpacking goods and chattels. Mercy on me, what a -cargo it is! They have treated us like ambassadors, and not one of our -one-and-twenty huge boxes have been touched. - - -_Thursday, 6th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, began writing to my brother; while doing -so they brought up Captain ----'s and Mr. ----'s cards. I was delighted -to see our dear Captain again, who, in spite of his glorious slip-slop, -is a glorious fellow. They sat some time. Colonel ---- called--he walks -my father off his legs. When they were all gone, finished letter and -wrote journal. Unpacked and sorted things. Opened with a trembling heart -my bonnet-box, and found my precious _Dévy_ squeezed to a crush--I -pulled it out, rebowed, and reblonded, and reflowered it, and now it -looks good enough "pour les _tha_uvages, mam_the_lle Fannie." Worked at -my muslin gown; in short, did a deal. A cheating German woman came here -this morning with some bewitching canezous and pelerines: I chose two -that I wanted, and one very pretty one that I didn't; but as she asked a -heathen price for 'em, I took only the former;--dear good little me![1] -We dined at five. After dinner, sang and played to my father, "all by -the light of the moon." The evening was, as the day had been, lovely; -and as I stood by his side near the open window, and saw him inhaling -the pure fresh air, which he said invigorated and revived him, and heard -him exclaim upon the beauty of our surroundings, half of my regret for -this exile melted away. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -He said to me, "Is there not reason to be grateful to God, when we look -at these fair things?"--and indeed, indeed, there is: yet these things -are not to me what they were. He told me that he had begun a song on -board ship for the last Saturday night, but that, not feeling well, he -had given it up, but the very same ideas I had made use of had occurred -to him. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -This is not surprising; the ideas were so obvious that there was no -escaping them. My father is ten years younger since he came here, -already. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Colonel ---- came in after tea, and took my father off to the Bowery -theatre. I remained with D----, singing and stitching, and gossiping -till twelve o'clock. My father has been introduced to half the town, and -tells me that far from the democratic _Mister_, which he expected to be -every man's title here, he had made the acquaintance of a score of -municipal dignitaries, and some sixty colonels and major generals--of -militia. Their omnibuses are vehicles of rank, and the _Ladies_ -Washington, Clinton, and Van Rensalear,[2] rattle their crazy bones -along the pavement for all the world like any other old women of -quality. - -These democrats are as title-sick as a banker's wife in England. My -father told me to-day, that Mr. ----, talking about the state of the -country, spoke of the lower orders finding their level: now this -enchants me, because a republic is a natural anomaly; there is nothing -republican in the construction of the material universe; there be -highlands and lowlands, lordly mountains as barren as any aristocracy, -and lowly valleys as productive as any labouring classes. The feeling of -rank, of inequality, is inherent in us, a part of the veneration of our -natures; and like most of our properties seldom finds its right -channels--in place of which it has created artificial ones suited to the -frame of society into which the civilised world has formed itself. I -believe in my heart that a republic is the noblest, highest, and purest -form of government; but I believe that, according to the present -disposition of human creatures, 'tis a mere beau ideal, totally -incapable of realisation. What the world may be fit for six hundred -years hence, I cannot exactly perceive; but in the mean time, 'tis my -conviction that America will be a monarchy before I am a skeleton. - -One of the curses of living at an inn in this unceremonious land:--Dr. ----- walked in this evening accompanied by a gentleman, whom he -forthwith introduced to us. I behaved very _ill_, as I always do on -these occasions; but 'tis an impertinence, and I shall take good care to -certify such to be my opinion of these free-and-easy proceedings. The -man had a silly manner, but he may be a genius for all that. He abused -General Jackson, and said the cholera was owing to his presidency; for -that Clay had predicted that when he came into power, battle, -pestilence, and famine, would come upon the land: which prophecy finds -its accomplishment thus: they have had a war with the Indians, the -cholera has raged, and the people, flying from the infected cities to -the country, have eaten half the farmers out of house and home. This -hotel reminds me most extremely of our "iligant" and untidy apartments -in dear nasty Dublin, at the Shelbourne. The paper in our bed-room is -half peeling from the walls, our beds are without curtains: then to be -sure there are pier looking-glasses, and one or two pieces of showy -French furniture in it. 'Tis customary, too, here, I find, for men to -sleep three or four in a room: conceive an Englishman shown into a -dormitory for half-a-dozen! I can't think how they endure it; but, -however, I have a fever at all those things. My father asked me, this -evening, to write a sonnet about the wild pigeons welcoming us to -America; I had thought of it with scribbling intent before, but he wants -me to get it up here, and that sickened me. - - -_Friday, 7th._ - -Rose at eight: after breakfast tidied my dressing-box, mended and tucked -my white muslin gown--wrote journal: while doing so, Colonel ---- came -to take leave of us for a few days: he is going to join his wife in the -country. Mr. ---- called and remained some time; while he was here, the -waiter brought me word that a Mr. ---- wanted to see me. I sent word -down that my father was out, knowing no such person, and supposing the -waiter had mistaken whom he asked for; but the gentleman persisted in -seeing me, and presently in walked a good-looking elderly man, who -introduced himself as Mr. ----, to whom my father had letters of -introduction. He sat himself down, and pottered a little, and then went -away. When he was gone, Mr. ---- informed me that this was one of _the_ -men of New York, in point of wealth, influence, and consideration. He -had been a great auctioneer, but had retired from business, having, -among his other honours, filled the office of Mayor of New York. My -father and Mr. ---- went to put our letters in the post: I practised and -needle-worked till dinner-time; after dinner, as I stood at the window -looking at the lovely sky and the brilliant earth, a curious effect of -light struck me. Within a hundred yards of each other, the Town-Hall -lay, with its white walls glowing in the sunset, while the tall grey -church-steeple was turning pale in the clear moonlight. That Town Hall -is a white-washed anomaly, and yet its effect is not altogether bad. I -took a bath at the house behind it, which is very conveniently arranged -for that purpose, with a French sort of gallery, all papered with the -story of Psyche in lead-coloured paper, that reminded me of the doughy -immortals I used to admire so much, at the inns at Abbeville and -Montreuil. The house was kept by a foreigner--I knew it. My father -proposed to us a walk, and we accordingly sallied forth. We walked to -the end of Broadway, a distance of two miles, I should think, and then -back again. The evening was most lovely. The moon was lighting the whole -upper sky, but every now and then, as we crossed the streets that led to -the river, we caught glimpses of the water, and woody banks, and the sky -that hung over them; which all were of that deep orange tint, that I -never saw but in Claude's pictures. After walking nearly a mile up -Broadway, we came to Canal Street: it is broader and finer than any I -have yet seen in New York; and at one end of it, a Christian church, -copied from some Pagan temple or other, looked exceedingly well, in the -full flood of silver light that streamed from heaven. There were many -temptations to look around, but the flags were so horribly broken and -out of order, that to do so was to run the risk of breaking one's -neck:--this is very bad.[3] The street was very much thronged, and I -thought the crowd a more civil and orderly one than an English crowd. -The men did not jostle or push one another, or tread upon one's feet, or -kick down one's shoe heels, or crush one's bonnet into one's face, or -turn it round upon one's head, all which I have seen done in London -streets. There is this to be said: this crowd was abroad merely for -pleasure, sauntering along, which is a thing never seen in London; the -proportion of idle loungers who frequent the streets there being very -inconsiderable, when compared with the number of people going on -business through the town. I observed that the young men to-night -invariably made room for women to pass, and many of them, as they drew -near us, took the cigar from their mouth, which I thought especially -courteous.[4] They were all smoking, to a man, except those who were -spitting, which helped to remind me of Paris, to which the whole place -bore a slight resemblance. The shops appear to me to make no show -whatever, and will not bear a comparison with the brilliant display of -the Parisian streets, or the rich magnificence of our own, in that -respect. The women dress very much, and very much like French women gone -mad; they all of them seem to me to walk horribly ill, as if they wore -tight shoes. Came in rather tired, took tea, sang an immensity, wrote -journal, looked at the peerless moon, and now will go to bed. - - -_Saturday 8th._ - -Stitching the whole blessed day; and as I have now no maid to look after -them, my clothes run some chance of being decently taken care of, and -kept in order. Mr. ---- and his daughter called; I like him; he appears -very intelligent; and the expression of his countenance is clever and -agreeable. His daughter was dressed up in French clothes, and looked -very stiff; but, however, a first visit is an awkward thing, and nothing -that isn't thorough-bred ever does it quite well. When they were gone, -Mr. ---- called. By the by, of Mr. ----, while he was speaking, he came -to the word _calculate_, and stopping half way, substituted another for -it, which made me laugh internally. Mercy on me! how sore all these -people are about Mrs. Trollope's book, and how glad I am I did not read -it. She must have spoken the truth though, for lies do not rankle so. - - - "Qui ne nous touche point ne nous fait pas rougir." - - -Worked till dinner-time. ---- dined with us: what a handsome man he is; -but oh, what a within-and-without actor! I wonder whether I carry such a -brand in every limb and look of me; if I thought so, I'd strangle -myself. An actor shall be self-convicted, in five hundred. There is a -ceaseless striving at effect, a straining after points in talking, and -a lamp and orange-peel twist in every action. How odious it is to me! -Absolute and unmitigated vulgarity I can put up with, and welcome; but -good Heaven defend me from the genteel version of vulgarity! to see -which in perfection, a country actor, particularly if he is also -manager, and sees occasionally people who bespeak plays, is your best -occasion. My dear father, who was a little elated, made me sing to him, -which I greatly gulped at. When he was gone, went on playing and -singing. Wrote journal, and now to bed. I'm dead of the side-ach.[5] - - -_Sunday, 9th._ - -Rose at eight. While I was dressing, D---- went out of the room, and -presently I heard sundry exclamations: "Good God, is it you! How are -you? How have you been?" I opened the door, and saw my uncle. - - * * * * * - -After breakfast, went to church with my father: on our way thither-ward -met the Doctor, and the Doctor's friend, and Mr. ----, to whom I have -taken an especial fancy. The church we went to is situated half way -between the Battery and our hotel. It is like a chapel in the exterior, -being quite plain, and standing close in among the houses; the interior -was large and perfectly simple. The town is filling, and the church was -well attended. 'Tis long since I have heard the church service so well -read; with so few vices of pronunciation, or vulgarisms of emphasis. Our -own clergy are shamefully negligent in this point; and if Chesterfield's -maxim be a good one in all cases, which it is, surely in the matter of -the service of God's house 'tis doubly so; they lose an immense -advantage, too, by their slovenly and careless way of delivering the -prayers, which are in themselves so beautiful, so eloquent, so full of -the very spirit of devotion; that whereas, now, a congregation seems but -to follow their leader, in gabbling them over as they do, were they -solemnly, devoutly, and impressively read, many would feel and -understand, what they now repeat mechanically, without attaching one -idea to the words they utter. There was no clerk to assist in the -service, and the congregation were as neglectful of the directions in -the prayer-book, and as indolent and remiss in uttering the responses, -as they are in our own churches; indeed, the absence of the clerk made -the inaudibility of the congregation's portion of the service more -palpable than it is with us. The organ and chanting were very good; -infinitely superior to the performances of those blessed little parish -cherubim, who monopolise the praises of God in our churches, so much to -the suffering of all good Christians not favoured with deafness. The -service is a little altered--all prayers for our King, Queen, House of -Lords, Parliament, etc., of course omitted: in lieu of which, they pray -for the President and all existing authorities. Sundry repetitions of -the Lord's Prayer, and other passages, were left out; they correct our -English, too, substituting the more modern phraseology of _those_, for -the dear old-fashioned _them_, which our prayer-book uses: as, "spare -thou _those_, O God," instead of "spare thou _them_, O God, which -confess their faults." Wherever the word wealth occurs, too, these -zealous purists, connecting that word with no idea but dollars and -cents, have replaced it by a term more acceptable to their -comprehension,--prosperity,--therefore they say, "In all time of our -prosperity (_i. e._ wealth), in all time of our tribulation," etc. I -wonder how these gentlemen interpret the word commonwealth, or whether, -in the course of their reading, they ever met with the word deprived of -the final _th_; and if so, what they imagined it meant.[6] Our prayers -were desired for some one putting out to sea; and a very touching -supplication to that effect was read, in which I joined with all my -heart. The sermon would have been good, if it had been squeezed into -half the compass it occupied; it was upon the subject of the late -terrible visitations with which God has tried the world, and was -sensibly and well delivered, only it had "damnable iteration." The day -was like an oven; after church, came home. Mr. ---- called, also Mr. -----, the Boston manager, who is longer than any human being I ever saw. -Presently after, a visit from "his honour the Recorder," a twaddling old -lawyer by the name of ----, and a silent young gentleman, his son. They -were very droll. The lawyer talked the most; at every half sentence, -however, quoting, complimenting, or appealing to "his honour the -Recorder," a little, good-tempered, turnippy-looking man, who called me -a female; and who, the other assured me, was the _Chesterfieldian_ of -New York (I don't know precisely what that means): what fun! Again I had -an opportunity of perceiving how thorough a chimera the equality is, -that we talk of as American. "There's no such thing," with a vengeance! -Here they were, talking of their aristocracy and democracy; and I'm -sure, if nothing else bore testimony to the inherent love of _higher -things_ which I believe exists in every human creature, the way in which -the lawyer dwelt upon the Duke of Montrose, lo whom, in Scotch kindred, -he is allied at the distance of some miles, and Lady Loughborough, whom -Heaven knows how he got hold of, would have satisfied me, that a my -Lord, or my Lady, are just as precious in the eyes of these levellers, -as in those of Lord and Lady-loving John Bull himself. They staid -pottering a long time. One thing his "honour the Recorder" told me, -which I wish lo remember: that the only way of preserving universal -suffrage from becoming the worst of abuses, was of course to educate the -people,[7] for which purpose a provision is made by government. Thus: a -grant of land is given, the revenue of which being estimated, the -population of the State are taxed to precisely the same amount; thus -furnishing, between the government and the people, an equal sum for the -education of all classes.[8] I do nothing but look out of window all the -blessed day long: I did not think in my old age to acquire so Jezebel a -trick; but the park (as they entitle the green opposite our windows) is -so very pretty, and the streets so gay, with their throngs of -smartly-dressed women, and so amusing with their abundant proportion of -black and white caricatures, that I find my window the most entertaining -station in the world. Read Salmonia: the natural-history part of it is -curious and interesting; but the local descriptions are beyond measure -tantalising; and the "bites," five thousand times more so. Our -ship-mate, Mr. ----, called: I was glad to see him. Poor man! how we did -_reel_ him off his legs to be sure,--what fun it was! My father dined -out: D---- and I dined _tête-à-tête_. Poor D---- has not been well -to-day: she is dreadfully bitten by the musquitoes, which, I thank their -discrimination, have a thorough contempt for me, and have not come near -me: the only things that bother me are little black ants, which I find -in my wash-hand basin, and running about in all directions. I think the -quantity of fruit brings them into the houses. After dinner, sat looking -at the blacks parading up and down; most of them in the height of the -fashion, with every colour in the rainbow about them. Several of the -black women I saw pass had very fine figures (the women here appear to -me to be remarkably small, my own being, I should think, the average -height); but the contrast of a bright blue or pink crape bonnet, with -the black face, white teeth, and glaring blue whites of the eyes, is -beyond description grotesque. The carriages here are all, to my taste, -very ugly; hung very high from the ground, and of all manner of ungainly -old-fashioned shapes. Now this is where, I think, the Americans are to -be quarrelled with: they are beginning at a time when all other nations -are arrived at the highest point of perfection, in all matters conducive -to the comfort and elegance of life: they go into these countries; into -France, into our own dear little snuggery, from whence they might bring -models of whatever was most excellent, and give them to their own -manufacturers, to imitate or improve upon. When I see these awkward -uncomfortable vehicles swinging through the streets, and think of the -beauty, the comfort, the strength, and lightness of our English-built -carriages and cabs, I am much surprised at the want of emulation and -enterprise, which can be satisfied with inferiority, when equality, if -not superiority, would be so easy.[9] At seven o'clock, D---- and I -walked out together. The evening was very beautiful, and we walked as -far as Canal Street and back. During our promenade, two fire-engines -passed us, attended by the usual retinue of shouting children; this is -about the sixth fire since yesterday evening. They are so frequent here, -that the cry "Fire, fire!" seems to excite neither alarm nor curiosity, -and except the above-mentioned pains-taking juveniles, none of the -inhabitants seem in the least disturbed by it.[10] We prosecuted our -walk down to the Battery, but just as we reached it we had to return, as -'twas tea-time. I was sorry: the whole scene was most lovely. The moon -shone full upon the trees and intersecting walks of the promenade, and -threw a bright belt of silver along the water's edge. The fresh night -wind came over the broad estuary, rippling it, and stirring the boughs -with its delicious breath. A building, which was once a fort from whence -the Americans fired upon our ships, is now turned into a sort of _café_, -and was brilliantly lighted with coloured lamps, shining among the -trees, and reflected in the water. The whole effect was pretty, and very -Parisian. We came home, and had tea, after which Mr. ---- came in. He -told us, that we must not walk alone at night, for that we might get -spoken to; and that a friend of his, seeing us go out without a man, had -followed us the whole way, in order to see that nothing happened to us: -this was very civil. Played and sang, and strove to make that stupid lad -sing, but he was shy, and would not open his mouth even the accustomed -hair's-breadth. At about eleven he went away; and we came to bed at -twelve. - - -_Monday, 10th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast wrote journal, and practised for an hour. ----- called. I remember taking a great fancy to him about eight years -ago, when I was a little girl in Paris; but, mercy, how he is aged! I -wonder whether I am beginning to look old yet, for it seems to me that -all the world's in wrinkles. My father went out with him. Read a canto -in Dante; also read through a volume of Bryant's poetry, which Mr. ---- -had lent us, to introduce us to the American Parnassus. I liked a great -deal of it very well; and I liked the pervading spirit of it much more, -which appears to me hopeful and bright, and what the spirit of a poet -should be; for in spite of all De Staël's sayings, and Byron's doings, I -hold that melancholy is _not_ essentially the nature of a poet. Though -instances may be adduced of great poets whose Helicon has been but a -bitter well of tears, yet, in itself, the spirit of poetry appears to me -to be too strong, too bright, too full of the elements of beauty and of -excellence, too full of God's own nature, to be dark or desponding; and -though from the very fineness of his mental constitution a poet shall -suffer more intensely from the baseness and the bitterness which are the -leaven of life, yet he, of all men, the most possesses the power to -discover truth, and beauty, and goodness, where they do exist; and where -they exist not, to create them. If the clouds of existence are darker, -its sunshine is also brighter to him; and while others, less gifted, -lose themselves in the labyrinth of life, his spirit should throw light -upon the darkness, and he should walk in peace and faith over the stormy -waters, and through the uncertain night; standing as 'twere above the -earth, he views with clearer eyes its mysteries; he finds in apparent -discord glorious harmony, and to him the sum of all is good; for, in -God's works, good still abounds to the subjection of evil. 'Tis this -trustful spirit that seems to inspire Bryant, and to me, therefore, his -poetry appears essentially good. There is not much originality in it. I -scarce think there can be, in poems so entirely descriptive: his -descriptions are very beautiful, but there is some sameness in them, and -he does not escape self-repetition; but I am a bad critic, for which I -thank God! I know the tears rolled down my cheeks more than once as I -read; I know that agreeable sensations and good thoughts were suggested -by what I read; I thought some of it beautiful, and all of it wholesome -(in contradistinction to the literature of this age), and I was well -pleased with it altogether. Afterwards read a sort of satirical -burlesque, called "Fanny," by Hallek: the wit being chiefly confined to -local allusions and descriptions of New York manners, I could not derive -much amusement from it. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -When my father came home, went with him to call on Mrs. ----. What I saw -of the house appeared to me very pretty, and well adapted to the heat of -the season. A large and lofty room, paved with India matting, and -furnished with white divans, and chairs, no other furniture encumbering -or cramming it up; it looked very airy and cool. Our hostess did not put -herself much out of the way to entertain us, but after the first "how do -you do," continued conversing with another visiter, leaving us to the -mercy of a very pretty young lady, who carried on the conversation at an -average of a word every three minutes. Neither Mr. ---- nor his eldest -daughter were at home; the latter, however, presently came in, and -relieved her sister and me greatly. We sat the proper time, and then -came away. - - * * * * * - -This is a species of intercourse I love not any where. I never practised -it in my own blessed land, neither will I here. We dined at six: after -dinner played and sang till eight, and then walked out with D---- and my -father, by the most brilliant moonlight in the world. We went down to -the Battery; the aquatic Vauxhall was lighted up very gaily, and they -were sending up rockets every few minutes, which, shooting athwart the -sky, threw a bright stream of light over the water, and, falling back in -showers of red stars, seemed to sink away before the steadfast shining -of the moon, who held high supremacy in heaven. The bay lay like molten -silver under her light, and every now and then a tiny skiff, emerging -from the shade, crossed the bright waters, its dark hull and white sails -relieved between the shining sea and radiant sky. Came home at nine, -tea'd and sat embroidering till twelve o'clock, industrious little me. - - -_Tuesday, 11th._ - -This day week we landed in New York; and this day was its prototype, -rainy, dull, and dreary; with occasional fits of sunshine, and light -delicious air, as capricious as a fine lady. After breakfast, Colonel ----- called. Wrote journal, and practised till one o'clock. My father -then set off with Colonel ---- for Hoboken, a place across the water, -famous once for duelling, but now the favourite resort of a -turtle-eating club, who go there every Tuesday to cook and swallow -turtle. The day was as bad as a party of pleasure could expect, (and -when were their expectations of bad weather disappointed?) nathless, my -father, at the Colonel's instigation, _persevered_, and went forth, -leaving me his card of invitation, which made me scream for half an -hour; the wording as follows:--"Sir, the Hoboken Turtle Club will meet -at the grove, for _spoon exercise_, on Tuesday, the 11th inst., by order -of the President." Mr. ---- and the Doctor paid us a visit of some -length. - - * * * * * - -When they were gone, read a canto in Dante, and sketched till four -o'clock. I wish I could make myself draw. I want to do every thing in -the world that can be done, and, by the by, that reminds me of my -German, which I must _persecute_. At four o'clock sent for a -hair-dresser, that I might in good time see that I am not made an object -on my first night. He was a Frenchman, and after listening profoundly to -my description of the head-dress I wanted, replied, as none but a -Frenchman could, "_Madame, la difficulté n'est pas d'exécuter votre -coiffure, mais de la bien concevoir_." However, he conceived and -executed sundry very smooth-looking bows, and, upon the whole, dressed -my hair very nicely, but charged a dollar for so doing; O nefarious! -D---- and I dined _tête-à-tête_; the evening was sulky--I was in -miserable spirits. - - * * * * * - -Sat working till my father came home, which he did at about half past -six. His account of his dinner was any thing but delightful; to be sure -he has no taste for rainy ruralities, and his feeling description of the -damp ground, damp trees, damp clothes, and damp atmosphere, gave me the -_rheumatiz_, letting alone that they had nothing to eat but turtle, and -that out of iron spoons.--"Ah, you vill go a pleasuring." - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -He had a cold before, and I fear this will make him very ill. He went -like wisdom to take a vapour bath directly. ---- came, and sat with us -till he returned. Had tea at eight, and embroidered till midnight. The -wind is rioting over the earth. I should like to see the Hudson now. The -black clouds, like masses of dark hair, are driven over the moon's pale -face; the red lights and fire engines are dancing up and down; the -streets, the church bells are all tolling--'tis sad and strange. - - - 'Tis all in vain, it may not last, - The sickly sunlight dies away, - And the thick clouds that veil the past - Roll darkly o'er my present day. - - Have I not flung them off, and striven - To seek some dawning hope in vain? - Have I not been for ever driven - Back to the bitter past again? - - What though a brighter sky bends o'er - Scenes where no former image greets me? - Though lost in paths untrod before, - Here, even here, pale Memory meets me. - - Oh life--oh blighted bloomless tree! - Why cling thy fibres to the earth? - Summer can bring no flower to thee, - Autumn no bearing, spring no birth. - - Bid me not strive, I'll strive no more, - To win from pain my joyless breast; - Sorrow has plough'd too deeply o'er - Life's Eden--let it take the rest! - - -_Wednesday, 12th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, heard my father say Hamlet. How -beautiful his whole conception of that part is! and yet it is but an -actor's conception too. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I am surprised at any body's ever questioning the real madness of -Hamlet: I know but one passage in the play which tells against it, and -there are a thousand that go to prove it. But leaving all isolated parts -out of the question, the entire colour of the character is the proper -ground from which to draw the right deduction. Gloomy, desponding, -ambitious, and disappointed in his ambition, full of sorrow for a dead -father, of shame for a living mother, of indignation for his ill-filled -inheritance, of impatience at his own dependent position; of a -thoughtful, doubtful, questioning spirit, looking with timid boldness -from the riddles of earth and life, to those of death and the mysterious -land beyond it; weary of existence upon its very threshold, and withheld -alone from self-destruction by religious awe, and that pervading -uncertainty of mind which stands on the brink, brooding over the unseen -may-be of another world; in love, moreover, and sad and dreamy in his -affection, as in every other sentiment; for there is not enough of -absolute passion in his love to make it a powerful and engrossing -interest; had it been such, the entireness and truth of Hamlet's -character would have been destroyed. 'Tis love indeed, but a pulseless -powerless love; gentle, refined, and tender, but without ardour or -energy; such are the various elements of Hamlet's character, at the very -beginning of the play: then see what follows. A frightful and unnatural -visitation from the dead; a horrible and sudden revelation of the murder -of the father for whom his soul is in mourning; thence burning hatred -and thirst of vengeance against his uncle; double loathing of his -mother's frailty; above all, that heaviest burden that a human creature -can have put upon him, an imperative duty calling for fulfilment, and a -want of resolution and activity to meet the demand; thence an unceasing -struggle between the sluggish nature and the upbraiding soul; an eternal -self-spurring and self-accusing: from which mental conflict, alone -sufficient to unseat a stronger mind, he finds relief in fits of -desponding musing, the exhaustion of overwrought powers. Then comes the -vigilant and circumspect guard he is forced to keep upon every word, -look, and action, lest they reveal his terrible secret; the suspicion -and mistrust of all that surround him, authorised by his knowledge of -his uncle's nature: his constant watchfulness over the spies that are -set to watch him; then come, in the course of events, Polonius's death, -the unintentional work of his own sword, the second apparition of his -father's ghost, his banishment to England, still haunted by his -treacherous friends, the miserable death of poor Ophelia, together with -the unexpected manner of his first hearing of it--if all these--the -man's own nature, sad and desponding--his educated nature (at a German -university), reasoning and metaphysical--and the nature he acquires from -the tutelage of events, bitter, dark, amazed, and uncertain; if these do -not make up as complete a madman as ever walked between heaven and -earth, I know not what does.[11] Wrote journal, and began to practise; -while doing so, ---- called; he said that he was accompanied by some -friends who wished to see me, and were at the door. I've heard of men's -shutting the door in the face of a dun, and going out the back way to -escape a bailiff--but how to get rid of such an attack as this I knew -not, and was therefore fain to beg the gentlemen would walk in, and -accordingly in they walked, four as fine-grown men as you would wish to -see on a summer's day. I was introduced to this regiment man by man, and -thought, as my Sheffield friend would say, "If _them_ be American -manners, defend me from them." They are traders, to be sure; but I never -heard of such wholesale introduction in my life. They sat a little -while, behaved very like Christians, and then departed. Captain ---- and ----- called,--the former to ask us to come down and see the Pacific, -poor old lady! When they were gone, practised, read a canto in Dante, -and translated verbatim a German fable, which kept me till dinner-time. -After dinner, walked out towards the Battery. ---- joined us. It was -between sunset and moonrise, and a lovelier light never lay upon sea, -earth, and sky. The horizon was bright orange colour, fading as it rose -to pale amber, which died away again into the modest violet colour of -twilight; this possessed the main sky wholly, except where two or three -masses of soft dark purple clouds floated, from behind which the stars -presently winked at us with their bright eyes. The river lay as still as -death, though there was a delicious fresh air: tiny boats were stealing -like shadows over the water; and every now and then against the orange -edge of the sky moved the masts of some schooner, whose hull was hidden -in the deep shadow thrown over it by the Jersey coast. A band was -playing in the Castle garden, and not a creature but ourselves seemed -abroad to see all this loveliness. Fashion makes the same fools all the -world over; and Broadway, with its crowded dusty pavement, and in the -full glare of day, is preferable, in the eyes of the New York -promenaders, to this cool and beautiful walk. Came home at about nine. -On the stairs met that odious Dr. ----, who came into the drawing-room -without asking or being asked, sat himself down, and called me "Miss -Fanny." I should like to have thrown my tea at him! ---- sent up his -name and presently followed it. I like to see any of our -fellow-passengers, however little such society would have pleased me -under any other circumstances; but necessity "makes us acquainted with -strange bedfellows;" and these my ship-mates will, to the end of time, -be my very good friends and boon companions. My father went to the Park -theatre, to see a man of the name of Hacket give an American -entertainment after Matthews's at-home fashion. I would not go, but -staid at home looking at the moon, which was glorious. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -To-night, as I stood watching that surpassing sunset, I would have given -it all--gold, and purple, and all--for a wreath of English fog stealing -over the water. - - -_Thursday, 13th._ - -Rose late: there was music in the night, which is always a strange -enchantment to me. After breakfast, wrote journal. At eleven, Captain ----- and ---- called for us; and my uncle having joined us, we proceeded -to the slip, as they call the places where the ships lie, and which -answer to our docks. Poor dear Pacific! I ran up her side with great -glee, and was introduced to Captain ----, her old commander; rushed down -into my berth, and was actually growing pathetic over the scene of my -sea-sorrows, when Mr. ---- clapped his hands close to me, and startled -me out of my reverie. Certainly my _adhesiveness_ must either be very -large, or uncommonly active just now, for my heart yearned towards the -old timbers with exceeding affection. The old ship was all drest out in -her best, and after sitting for some time in our cabin, we adjourned to -the larger one and lunched. Mr. ---- joined our party; and we had one or -two of our old ship songs, with their ridiculous burdens, with due -solemnity. Saw Mr. ----, but not dear M. ----. Visited the forecastle, -whence I have watched such glorious sunsets, such fair uprisings of the -starry sisterhood; now it looked upon the dusty quay and dirty dock -water, and the graceful sails were all stripped away, and the bare masts -and rigging shone in the intense sunlight. Poor good ship! I wish to -Heaven my feet were on her deck, and her prow turned to the east. I -would not care if the devil himself drove a hurricane at our backs. -Visited the fish and fruit markets:[12] it was too late in the day to -see either to advantage, but the latter reminded me of Aladdin's -treasure: the heaps of peaches, filling with their rich downy balls high -baskets ranged in endless rows, and painted of a bright vermilion -colour, which threw a ruddy ripeness over the fruit. The enormous -baskets (such as are used in England to carry linen) piled with melons, -the wild grapes, the pears, and apples, all so plenteous, so fragrant, -so beautiful in form and colour, leading the mind to the wondrous -bounteousness which has dowered this land with every natural -treasure--the whole enchanted me. ----, to my horror, bought a couple of -beautiful live wild-pigeons, which he carried home, head downwards, one -in each coat pocket. We parted from him at the Park gate, and proceeded -to Murray Street, to look at the furnished house my father wishes to -take. Upon enquiry, however, we found that it was already let. The day -was bright and beautiful, and my father proposed crossing the river to -Hoboken, the scene of the turtle-eating expedition. We did so -accordingly: himself, D----, Mr. ----, and I. Steamers go across every -five minutes, conveying passengers on foot and horseback, gigs, -carriages, carts, any thing and every thing. The day was lovely--the -broad bright river was gemmed with a thousand sails. Away to the right -it stretched between richly-wooded banks, placid and blue as a lake; to -the left, in the rocky doorway of the narrows, two or three ships stood -revealed against the cloudless sky. We reached the opposite coast, and -walked. It was nearly three miles from where we landed to the scene of -the "_spoon-exercise_." The whole of our route lay through a beautiful -wild plantation, or rather strip of wood, I should say, for 'tis -nature's own gardening which crowns the high bank of the river; through -which trellis-work of varied foliage we caught exquisite glimpses of the -glorious waters, the glittering city, and the opposite banks, decked out -in all the loveliest contrast of sunshine and shade. As we stood in our -leafy colonnade looking out upon this fair scene, the rippling water -made sweet music far down below us, striking with its tiny silver waves -the smooth sand and dark-coloured rocks from which they were ebbing. -Many of the trees were quite new to me, and delighted me with their -graceful forms and vivid foliage. The broad-leaved catalpa, and the -hickory with its bright coral-coloured berries. Many lovely lowly -things, too, grew by our pathside, which we gathered as we passed, to -bring away, but which withered in our hands ere we returned. Gorgeous -butterflies were zigzagging through the air, and for the first time I -longed to imprison them. In pursuing one, I ran into the midst of a slip -of clover land, but presently jumped out again, on hearing the swarms -of grasshoppers round me. Mr. ---- caught one; it was larger and thicker -than the English grasshopper, and of a dim mottled brown colour, like -the plumage of our common moth; but presently, on his opening his hand -to let it escape, it spread out a pair of dark purple wings, tipped with -pale primrose colour, and flew away a beautiful butterfly, such as the -one I had been seduced by. The slips of grass ground on the left of our -path were the only things that annoyed me: they were ragged, and rank, -and high,--they wanted mowing; and if they had been mowed soft, and -thick, and smooth, like an English lawn, how gloriously the lights and -shadows of this lovely sky would fall through the green roof of this -wood upon them! There is nothing in nature that, to my fancy, receives -light and shade with as rich an effect as sloping lawn land. Oh! -England, England! how I have seen your fresh emerald mantle deepen and -brighten in a summer's day. About a hundred yards from the place where -they dined on Tuesday, with no floor but the damp earth, no roof but the -dripping trees, stands a sort of _café_; a long, low, pretty -Italianish-looking building. The wood is cleared away in front of it, -and it commands a lovely view of the Hudson and its opposite shores: and -here they might have been sheltered and comfortable, but I suppose it -was not yet the appointed day of the month with them for eating their -dinner within walls; and, rather than infringe on an established rule, -they preferred catching a cold apiece. The place where they met in the -open air is extremely beautiful, except, of course, on a rainy day. The -shore is lower just here; and though there are trees enough to make -shade all round, and a thick screen of wood and young undergrowth -behind, the front is open to the river, which makes a bend just below, -forming a lake-like bay, round which again the coast rises into rocky -walls covered with rich foliage. Upon one of these promontories, in the -midst of a high open knoll, surrounded and overhung by higher grounds -covered with wood, stood the dwelling of the owner of the land, high -above the river, overlooking its downward course to the sea, perched -like an eagle's aërie, half-way between heaven and the level earth, but -beautifully encircled with waving forests, a shade in summer and a -shelter in winter. My father, D----, and my bonnet sat down in the -shade. Mr. ---- and I clambered upon some pieces of rock at the water's -edge, whence we looked out over river and land--a fair sight. "Oh!" I -exclaimed, pointing to the highlands on our left, through whose rich -foliage the rifted granite looked cold and grey, "what a place for a -scramble! there must be lovely walks there." "Ay," returned my -companion, "and a few rattle-snakes too."[13] We found D----, my father, -and my bonnet buffeting with a swarm of musquitoes; this is a great -nuisance. We turned our steps homeward. I picked up a nut enclosed like -a walnut in a green case. I opened it; it was not ripe; but in -construction exactly like a walnut, with the same bitter filmy skin over -the fruit, which is sweet and oily, and like a walnut in flavour also. -Mr. ---- told me it was called a marrow-nut. The tree on which it grew -had foliage of the acacia kind. We had to rush to meet the steam-boat, -which was just going across. The whole walk reminded me of that part of -Oatlands which, from its wild and tangled woodland, they call America. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -There must have been something surpassingly beautiful in our -surroundings, for even Mr. ----, into whose composition I suspect much -of the poetical element does not enter, began expatiating on the -happiness of the original possessors of these fair lands and waters, the -Indians--the Red Children of the soil, who followed the chase through -these lovely wildernesses, and drove their light canoes over these broad -streams--"great nature's happy commoners,"--till the predestined curse -came on them, till the white sails of the invaders threw their shadow -over these seas, and the work of extermination began in these wild -fastnesses of freedom. The destruction of the original inhabitants of a -country by its discoverers, always attended, as it is, with injustice -and cruelty, appears to me one of the most mysterious dispensations of -Providence. - -The chasing, enslaving, and destroying creatures, whose existence, -however inferior, is as justly theirs as that of the most refined -European is his; who for the most part, too, receive their enemies with -open-handed hospitality, until taught treachery by being betrayed, and -cruelty by fear; the driving the child of the soil off it, or, what is -fifty times worse, chaining him to till it; all the various forms of -desolation which have ever followed the landing of civilised men upon -uncivilised shores; in short, the theory and practice of discovery and -conquest, as recorded in all history, is a very singular and painful -subject of contemplation. - -'Tis true that cultivation and civilisation, the arts and sciences that -render life useful, the knowledge that ennobles, the adornments that -refine existence, above all, the religion that is the most sacred trust -and dear reward, all these, like pure sunshine and healthful airs -following a hurricane, succeed the devastation of the invader; but the -sufferings of those who are swept away are not the less; and though I -believe that good alone is God's result, it seems a fearful proof of the -evil wherewith this earth is cursed, that good cannot progress but over -such a path. No one beholding the prosperous and promising state of this -fine country, could wish it again untenanted of its enterprising and -industrious possessors; yet even while looking with admiration at all -that they have achieved, with expectation amounting to certainty to all -that they will yet accomplish, 'tis difficult to refrain from bestowing -some thoughts of pity and of sadness upon those whose homes have been -overturned, whose language has passed away, and whose feet are daily -driven further from those territories of which they were once sole and -sovereign lords. How strange it is to think, that less than one hundred -years ago, these shores, resounding with the voice of populous -cities,--these waters, laden with the commerce of the wide world,--were -silent wildernesses, where sprang and fell the forest leaves, where -ebbed and flowed the ocean tides from day to day, and from year to year, -in uninterrupted stillness; where the great sun, who looked on the vast -empires of the East, its mouldering kingdoms, its lordly palaces, its -ancient temples, its swarming cities, came and looked down upon the -still dwelling of utter loneliness, where nature sat enthroned in -everlasting beauty, undisturbed by the far off din of worlds "beyond the -flood."[14] - -Came home rather tired: my father asked Mr. ---- to dine with us, but he -could not. After dinner, sat working till ten o'clock, when ---- came to -take leave of us. He is going off to-morrow morning to Philadelphia, but -will be back for our Tuesday's dinner. The people here are all up and -about very early in the morning. I went out at half-past eight, and -found all Broadway abroad. - - -_Friday, 14th._ - -Forget all about it, except that I went about the town with Colonel -----. - - * * * * * - -went to see his Quaker wife, whom I liked very much. - - * * * * * - -Drove all about New-York, which more than ever reminded me of the towns -in France: passed the Bowery theatre, which is a handsome -finely-proportioned building, with a large brazen eagle plastered on the -pediment, for all the world like an insurance mark, or the sign of the -spread eagle: this is nefarious! We passed a pretty house, which Colonel ----- called an old mansion; mercy on me, him, and it! Old! I thought of -Warwick Castle, of Hatfield, of Chequers, of Hopwood--old! and there it -stood, with its white pillars and Italian-looking portico, for all the -world like one of our own cit's yesterday-grown boxes. Old, quotha! the -woods and waters and hills and skies alone are old here; the works of -men are in the very greenness and unmellowed imperfection of youth: -true, 'tis a youth full of vigorous sap and glorious promise; spring, -laden with blossoms, foretelling abundant and rich produce, and so let -them be proud of it. But the worst of it is, the Americans are not -satisfied with glorying in what they are,--which, considering the time -and opportunities they have had, is matter of glory quite -sufficient,--they are never happy without comparing this their sapling -to the giant oaks of the old world,--and what can one say to that? _Is_ -New-York like London? No, by my two troths it is not; but the oak was an -acorn once, and New York will surely, if the world holds together long -enough, become a lordly city, such as we know of beyond the sea. - -Went in the evening to see Wallack act the Brigand; it was his benefit, -and the house was very good. He is perfection in this sort of thing, yet -there were one or two blunders even in his melo-dramatic acting of this -piece; however, he looks very like the thing, and it is very nice to -see--once. - - -_Saturday, 15th._ - -Sat stitching all the blessed day. So we are to go to _Philadelphia_ -before _Boston_. I'm sorry. The H----s will be disappointed, and I shall -get no riding, _che seccatura!_ At five dressed, and went to the ----, -where we were to dine. This is one of the first houses here, so I -conclude that I am to consider what I see as a tolerable sample of the -ways and manners of being, doing, and suffering of the _best society_ in -New York. There were about twenty people; the women were in a sort of -French demi-toilette, with bare necks, and long sleeves, heads frizzed -out after the very last _Petit Courier_, and thread net handkerchiefs -and capes; the whole of which, to my English eye, appeared a strange -marrying of incongruities. The younger daughter of our host is -beautiful; a young and brilliant likeness of Ellen Tree, with more -refinement, and a smile that was, not to say a ray, but a whole focus of -sun rays, a perfect blaze of light; she was much taken up with a youth, -to whom, my neighbour at dinner informed me, she was engaged. - - * * * * * - -The women here, like those of most warm climates, ripen very early, and -decay proportionably soon. They are, generally speaking, pretty, with -good complexions, and an air of freshness and brilliancy, but this, I am -told, is very evanescent; and whereas, in England, a woman is in the -full bloom of health and beauty from twenty to five-and-thirty, here -they scarcely reach the first period without being faded and looking -old.[15] They marry very young, and this is another reason why age comes -prematurely upon them. There was a fair young thing at dinner to-day who -did not look above seventeen, and she was a wife. As for their figures, -like those of French women, they are too well dressed for one to judge -exactly what they are really like: they are, for the most part, short -and slight, with remarkably pretty feet and ankles; but there's too much -pelerine and petticoat, and "de quoi" of every sort, to guess any thing -more. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -There was a Mr. ----, the Magnus Apollo of New York, who is a musical -genius: sings as well as any gentleman need sing, pronounces Italian -well, and accompanies himself without false chords; all which renders -him _the_ man round whom (as round H----, G----, Lord C----, and that -pretty Lord O----, in our own country) the women listen and languish. He -sang the Phantom Bark: the last time I heard it was from the lips of -Moore, with two of the loveliest faces in all the world hanging over -him, Mrs. N----, and Mrs. B----. By the by, the man who sat next me at -dinner was asking me all manner of questions about Mrs. N----: among -others, whether she was "as pale as a poetess ought to be?" Oh! how I -wish Corinne had but heard that herself! what a deal of funny scorn -would have looked beautiful on her rich brown cheek and brilliant lips. -The dinner was plenteous, and tolerably well dressed, but ill served: -there were not half servants enough, and we had neither water-glasses -nor finger-glasses. Now, though I don't eat with my fingers (except -peaches, whereat I think the aborigines, who were paring theirs like so -many potatoes, seemed rather amazed), yet do I hold a finger-glass at -the conclusion of my dinner a requisite to comfort. After dinner we had -coffee, but no tea, whereat my English taste was in high dudgeon. The -gentlemen did not sit long, and when they joined us, Mr. ----, as I said -before, uttered sweet sounds. By the by, I was not a little amused at -Mrs. ---- asking me whether I had heard of his singing, or their musical -soirées, and seeming all but surprised that I had no revelations of -either across the Atlantic. Mercy on me! what fools people are all over -the world! The worst is, they are all fools of the same sort, and there -is no profit whatever in travelling. Mr. B----, who is an Englishman, -happened to ask me if I knew Captain ----, whereupon we immediately -struck up a conversation, and talked over English folks and doings -together, to my entire satisfaction. The ---- were there: he is brother -to that wondrous ruler of the spirits whom I did so dislike in London, -and his lady is a daughter of Lord ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I was very glad to come home. I sang to them two or three things, but -the piano was pitched too high for my voice; by the by, in that large, -lofty, fine room, they had a tiny, old-fashioned, becurtained cabinet -piano stuck right against the wall, unto which the singer's face was -turned, and into which his voice was absorbed. We had hardly regained -our inn and uncloaked, when there came a tap at the door, and in walked -Mr. ---- to ask me if we would not join them (himself and the ----) at -supper. He said that, besides five being a great deal too early to dine, -he had not half dinner enough; and then began the regular English -quizzing of every thing and every body we had left behind. Oh dear, oh -dear! how thoroughly English it was, and how it reminded me of H----; of -course, we did not accept their invitation, but it furnished me matter -of amusement. How we English folks do cling to our own habits, our own -views, our own things, our own people; how, in spite of all our -wanderings and scatterings over the whole face of the earth, like so -many Jews, we never lose our distinct and national individuality; nor -fail to lay hold of one another's skirts, to laugh at and depreciate all -that differs from that country, which we delight in forsaking for any -and all others. - - -_Sunday, 16th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, walked to church with the C----s and Mr. -B----. They went to Grace Church for the music; we stopped short to go -to the ---- pew in the Episcopal church. The pew was crammed, I am sorry -to say, owing to our being there, which they had pressed so earnestly, -that we thought ourselves bound to accept the invitation. The sermon was -tolerably good; better than the average sermons one hears in London, and -sufficiently well delivered. After church, I---- called, also two men of -the name of M----, large men, very! also Mr. B---- and Mr. C----: when -they were all gone, wrote journal, and began a letter to J----. Dined at -five; after dinner, went on with my letter to J----, and wrote an -immense one to dear H----, which kept me pen in hand till past twelve. A -tremendous thunderstorm came on, which lasted from nine o'clock till -past two in the morning: I never saw but one such in my life; and that -was our memorable Weybridge storm, which only exceeded this in the -circumstance of my having seen a thunderbolt fall during that paroxysm -of the elements. But this was very glorious, awful, beautiful, and -tremendous. The lightning played without the intermission of a second, -in wide sheets of purple glaring flame, that trembled over the earth for -nearly two or three seconds at a time; making the whole world, river, -sky, trees, and buildings, look like a ghostly universe cut out in -chalk. The light over the water, which absolutely illumined the shore on -the other side with the broad glare of full day, was of a magnificent -purple colour. The night was pitchy dark, too; so that between each of -these ghastly smiles of the devil, the various pale steeples and -buildings, which seemed at every moment to leap from nothing into -existence, after standing out in fearful relief against a back-ground of -fire, were hidden like so many dreams in deep and total darkness. God's -music rolled along the heavens; the forked lightnings now dived from the -clouds into the very bosom of the city, now ran like tangled threads of -fire all round the blazing sky. "The big bright rain came dancing to the -earth," the wind clapped its huge wings, and swept through the dazzling -glare; and as I stood, with eyes half veiled (for the light was too -intense even upon the ground to be looked at with unshaded eyes), gazing -at this fierce holiday of the elements--at the mad lightning--at -the brilliant shower, through which the flashes shone like -daylight--listening to the huge thunder, as its voice resounded, and its -heavy feet rebounded along the clouds--and the swift spirit-like wind -rushing triumphantly along, uttering its wild pĉan over the amazed -earth;--I felt more intensely than I ever did before the wondrous might -of these God's powerful and beautiful creatures; the wondrous might, -majesty, and awfulness of him their Lord, beneath whose footstool they -lie chained, by his great goodness made the ministers of good to this -our lowly dwelling-place. I did not go to bed till two; the storm -continued to rage long after that. - - -_Monday, 17th._ - -Rose at eight. At twelve, went to rehearsal. The weather is intolerable; -I am in a state of perpetual fusion. The theatre is the coolest place I -have yet been in, I mean at rehearsal; when the front is empty, and the -doors open, and the stage is so dark that we are obliged to rehearse by -candlelight. That washed-out man, who failed in London when he acted -Romeo with me, is to be my Fazio; let us hope he will know some of his -words to-morrow night, for he is at present most innocent of any such -knowledge. After rehearsal, walked into a shop to buy some gauze: the -shopmen called me by my name, entered into conversation with us; and one -of them, after showing me a variety of things which I did not want, -said, that they were most anxious to show me every attention, and render -my stay in this country agreeable. A Christian, I suppose, would have -met these benevolent advances with an infinitude of thankfulness, and an -outpouring of grateful pleasure; but for my own part, though I had the -grace to smile and say, "Thank you," I longed to add, "but be so good as -to measure your ribands, and hold your tongue." I have no idea of -holding parley with clerks behind a counter, still less of their doing -so with me. So much for my first impression of the courtesy of this land -of liberty. I should have been much better pleased if they had called me -"Ma'am," which they did not. We dined at three. V---- and Colonel ---- -called after dinner. At seven, went to the theatre. It was my dear -father's first appearance in this new world, and my heart ached with -anxiety. The weather was intensely hot, yet the theatre was crowded: -when he came on, they gave him what every body here calls an immense -reception; but they should see our London audience get up, and wave -hats and handkerchiefs, and shout welcome as they do to us. The tears -were in my eyes, and all I could say was, "They might as well get up, I -think." My father looked well, and acted beyond all praise; but oh, what -a fine and delicate piece of work this is! There is not one sentence, -line, or word of this part which my father has not sifted grain by -grain; there is not one scene or passage to which he does not give its -fullest and most entire substance, together with a variety that relieves -the intense study of the whole with wonderful effect. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I think that it is impossible to conceive Hamlet more truly, or execute -it more exquisitely, than he does. The refinement, the tenderness, the -grace, dignity, and princely courtesy with which he invests it from -beginning to end, are most lovely; and some of the slighter passages, -which, like fine tints to the incapable eyes of blindness, must always -pass unnoticed, and, of course, utterly uncomprehended, by the -discriminating public, enchanted me. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -His voice was weak, from nervousness and the intolerable heat of the -weather, and he was not well dressed, which was a pity. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The play was well got up, and went off very well. The ---- were there, a -regiment of them; also Colonel ---- and Captain ----. After the play, -came home to supper. - - -_Tuesday, 18th._ - -Rose at eight. At eleven, went to rehearsal. Mr. Keppel is just as -nervous and as imperfect as ever: what on earth will he, or shall I, do -to-night! Came home, got things out for the theatre, and sat like any -stroller stitching for dear life at my head-dress. Mr. H---- and his -nephew called: the latter asked me if I was at all apprehensive? No, by -my troth, I am not; and that not because I feel sure of success, for I -think it very probable the Yankees may like to show their critical -judgment and independence by damning me; but because, thank God, I do -not care whether they do or not: the whole thing is too loathsome to me, -for either failure or success to affect me in the least, and therefore -I feel neither nervous nor anxious about it. We dined at three: after -dinner, J---- came; he sat some time. When he was gone, I came into the -drawing-room, and found a man sitting with my father, who presented him -to me by some inaudible name. I sat down, and the gentleman pursued his -conversation as follows:--"When Clara Fisher came over, Barry wrote to -me about her, and I wrote him back word: 'My dear fellow, if your bella -donna is such as you describe, why, we'll see what we can do; we will -take her by the hand.'" This was enough for me. I jumped up, and ran out -of the room; because a newspaper writer is my aversion. At half-past -six, went to the theatre. They acted the farce of Popping the Question -first, in order, I suppose, to get the people to their places before the -play began. Poor Mr. Keppel was gasping for breath; he moved my -compassion infinitely; I consoled and comforted him all I could, gave -him some of my lemonade to swallow, for he was choking with fright; sat -myself down with my back to the audience, and up went the curtain. Owing -to the position in which I was sitting, and my plain dress, most -unheroine-like in its make and colour, the people did not know me, and -would not have known me for some time, if that stupid man had done as I -kept bidding him, gone on; but instead of doing so, he stood stock -still, looked at me, and then at the audience, whereupon the latter -caught an inkling of the truth, and gave me such a reception as I get in -Covent Garden theatre every time I act a new part. The house was very -full; all the ---- were there, and Colonel ----. Mr. Keppel was -frightened to death, and in the very second speech was quite out: it was -in vain that I prompted him; he was too nervous to take the word, and -made a complete mess of it. This happened more than once in the first -scene; and at the end of the first act, as I left the stage, I said to -D----, "It's all up with me, I can't do any thing now;" for, having to -prompt my Fazio, frightened by his fright, annoyed by his forgetting his -crossings and positions, utterly unable to work myself into any thing -like excitement, I thought the whole thing must necessarily go to -pieces. However, once rid of my encumbrance, which I am at the end of -the second act, I began to move a little more freely, gathered up my -strength, and set to work comfortably by myself; whereupon, the people -applauded, I warmed (warmed, quotha! the air was steam), and got through -very satisfactorily, at least so it seems. My dresses were very -beautiful; but oh, but oh, the musquitoes had made dreadful havoc with -my arms, which were covered with hills as large and red as Vesuvius in -an eruption. After the play, my father introduced me to Mr. B----, Lord -S----'s brother, who was behind the scenes; his brother's place, by the -by. Came home, supped. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came to bed at half past twelve; weary, and half melted away. The ants -swarm on the floors, on the tables, in the beds, about one's clothes; -the plagues of Egypt were a joke to them: horrible! it makes one's life -absolutely burdensome, to have creatures creeping about one, and all -over one, night and day, this fashion; to say nothing of those -cantankerous stinging things, the musquitoes. - - -_Wednesday, 19th._ - -D---- did not call me till ten o'clock, whereat I was in furious -dudgeon. Got up, breakfasted, and off to rehearsal; Romeo and Juliet. -Mr. Keppel has been dismissed, poor man! I'm sorry for him: my father is -to play Romeo with me, I'm sorrier still for that. After rehearsal, came -home, dawdled about my room: Mr. ---- called: he is particularly fond of -music. My father asked him to try the piano, which he accordingly did, -and was playing most delightfully, when in walked Mr. ----, and by and -by Colonel ----, with his honour the Recorder, and General ---- of the -militia. I amused myself with looking over some exquisite brown silk -stockings, wherewith I mean to match my gown. When they were all gone, -dawdled about till time to dress. So poor dear H---- can't come from -Philadelphia for our dinner--dear, I'm quite sorry! At five our party -assembled; we were but thin in numbers, and the half empty table, -together with the old ship faces, made it look, as some one observed, as -if it was blowing hard. Our dinner was neither good nor well served, the -wine not half iced. At the end of it, my father gave Captain ---- his -claret-jug, wherewith that worthy seemed much satisfied. - - * * * * * - -We left the table soon; came and wrote journal. When the gentlemen -joined us, they were all more or less "how com'd you so indeed?" Mr. ----- and Mr. ---- particularly. They put me down to the piano, and once -or twice I thought I must have screamed. On one side _vibrated_ dear -Mr. ----, threatening my new gown with a cup of coffee, which he held at -an awful angle from the horizontal line; singing with every body who -opened their lips, and uttering such dreadfully discordant little -squeals and squeaks, that I thought I should have died of suppressed -laughter. On the other side, rather _concerned_, but not quite so much -so, stood the Irishman; who, though warbling a little out of tune, and -flourishing somewhat luxuriantly, still retained enough of his right -senses to discriminate between Mr. ----'s yelps and singing, properly so -called; and accordingly pished!--and pshawed!--and oh Lorded!--and good -heavened! away,-- staring at the perpetrator with indignant horror -through his spectacles, while his terrified wig stood on end in every -direction, each particular hair appearing vehemently possessed with the -centrifugal force. They all went away in good time, and we came to bed. - - - ----To bed--to sleep-- - To sleep!--perchance to be bitten! ay--there's the scratch: - And in that sleep of ours what bugs may come, - Must give us pause. - - -_Thursday, 20th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, went to rehearse Romeo and Juliet. Poor -Mr. Keppel is fairly laid on the shelf; I'm sorry for him! What a funny -passion he had, by the by, for going down upon his knees. In Fazio, at -the end of the judgment scene, when I was upon mine, down he went upon -his, making the most absurd devout-looking _vis-à-vis_ I ever beheld: in -the last scene, too, when he ought to have been going off to execution, -down he went again upon his knees, and no power on earth could get him -up again, for Lord knows how long. Poor fellow, he bothered me a good -deal, yet I'm sincerely sorry for him. At the end of our rehearsal, came -home. The weather is sunny, sultry, scorching, suffocating. Ah! Mr. ---- -called. This is an indifferent imitation of bad fine manners amongst us; -"he speaks small, too, like a gentleman." He sat for a long time, -talking over the opera, and all the prima donnas in the world. When he -was gone, Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- called. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The latter asked us to dinner to-morrow, to meet Dr. ----, who, poor -man, dares neither go to the play nor call upon us, so strict are the -good people here about the behaviour of their pastors and masters. By -the by, Essex called this morning to fetch away the Captain's -claret-jug: he asked my father for an order; adding, with some -hesitation, "It must be for the gallery, if you please, sir, for people -of colour are not allowed to go to the pit, or any other part of the -house." I believe I turned black myself, I was so indignant. Here's -aristocracy with a vengeance! ---- called with Forrest, the American -actor. Mr. Forrest has rather a fine face, I think. We dined at three: -after dinner, wrote journal, played on the piano, and frittered away my -time till half-past six. Went to the theatre: the house was very full, -and dreadfully hot. My father acted Romeo beautifully: I looked very -nice, and the people applauded my _gown_ abundantly. At the end of the -play I was half dead with heat and fatigue: came home and supped, lay -down on the floor in absolute meltiness away, and then came to bed. - - -_Friday, 21st._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast went to rehearsal. The School for -Scandal; Sir Peter, I see, keeps his effects to himself; what a bore -this is, to be sure! Got out things for the theatre. While eating my -lunch, Mr. ---- and his cousin, a Mr. ---- (one of the cleverest lawyers -here), called. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -They were talking of Mr. Keppel. By the by, of that gentleman; Mr. -Simpson sent me this morning, for my decision, a letter from Mr. Keppel, -soliciting another trial, and urging the hardness of his case, in being -condemned upon a part which he had had no time to study. My own opinion -of poor Mr. Keppel is, that no power on earth or in heaven can make him -act decently; however, of course, I did not object to his trying again; -he did not swamp me the first night, so I don't suppose he will the -fifth. We dined at five. Just before dinner, received a most delicious -bouquet, which gladdened my very heart with its sweet smell and lovely -colours: some of the flowers were strangers to me. After dinner, Colonel ----- called, and began pulling out heaps of newspapers, and telling us a -long story about Mr. Keppel, who, it seems, has been writing to the -papers, to convince them and the public that he is a good actor; at the -same time throwing out sundry hints, which seem aimed our way, of -injustice, oppression, hard usage, and the rest on't. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Mr. ---- called to offer to ride with me; when, however, the question of -a horse was canvassed, he knew of none, and Colonel ----'s whole -regiment of "beautiful ladies' horses" had also neither a local -habitation nor a name. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -When they were gone, went to the theatre; the house was very good, the -play the School for Scandal. I played pretty fairly, and looked very -nice. The people were stupid to a degree, to be sure; poor things! it -was very hot. Indeed, I scarce understand how they should be amused with -the School for Scandal; for though the dramatic situations are so -exquisite, yet the wit is far above the generality of even our own -audiences, and the tone and manners altogether are so thoroughly -English, that I should think it must be for the most part -incomprehensible to the good people here. After the play, came home. -Colonel S---- supped with us, and renewed the subject of Mr. Keppel and -the theatre. My father happened to say, referring to a passage in that -worthy's letter to the public, "I shall certainly inquire of Mr. Keppel -why he has so used my name;" to which Colonel S---- replied, as usual, -"No, now let me advise, let me beg you, Mr. Kemble, just to remain -quiet, and leave all this to me." This was too much for mortal woman to -bear. I immediately said, "Not at all: it is my father's affair, if any -body's; and he alone has the right to demand any explanation, or make -any observation on the subject; and were I he, I certainly should do so, -and that forthwith." I could hold no longer. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came to bed in tremendous dudgeon. The few _critiques_ that I have seen -upon our acting have been, upon the whole, laudatory. One was sent to me -from a paper called The Mirror, which pleased me very much; not because -the praise in it was excessive, and far beyond my deserts, but that it -was written with great taste and feeling, and was evidently not the -produce of a common press-hack. There appeared to me in all the others -the true provincial dread of praising too much, and being _led_ into -approbation by previous opinions; a sort of jealousy of critical -freedom, which, together with the established _nil admirari_ of the -press, seems to keep them in a constant dread of being thought -enthusiastic. They need not be afraid: enthusiasm may belong to such -analyses as Schlegel's or Channing's, but has nothing in common with the -paragraphs of a newspaper; the inditers of which, in my poor judgment, -seldom go beyond the very threshold of criticism, _i. e._ the discovery -of faults. I am infinitely amused at the extreme curiosity which appears -to me to be the besetting sin of the people here. A gentleman whom you -know (as for instance, in my case,) very slightly, will sit down by your -table during a morning visit, turn over every article upon it, look at -the cards of the various people who have called upon you, ask -half-a-dozen questions about each of them, as many about your own -private concerns; and all this, as though it were a matter of course -that you should answer him, which I feel greatly inclined occasionally -not to do. - - -_Saturday, 22d._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, dawdled about till near one o'clock: got -into a hackney coach[16] with D----, and returned all manner of cards. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Went into a shop to order a pair of shoes. The shopkeepers in this -place, with whom I have hitherto had to deal, are either condescendingly -familiar, or insolently indifferent in their manner. Your washer woman -sits down before you, while you are _standing_ speaking to her; and a -shop-boy bringing things for your inspection not only sits down, but -keeps his hat on in your drawing-room. The worthy man to whom I went for -my shoes was so amazingly ungracious, that at first I thought I would -go out of the shop; but recollecting that I should probably only go -farther and fare worse, I gulped, sat down, and was measured. All this -is bad: it has its origin in a vulgar misapprehension, which confounds -ill-breeding with independence, and leads people to fancy that they -elevate themselves above their condition by discharging its duties and -obligations discourteously.[17] - - * * * * * - -Came home: wrote journal, practised, dressed for dinner. At five, went -into our neighbour's: Dr. ----, the rector of Grace Church, was the only -stranger. I liked him extremely: he sat by me at dinner, and I thought -his conversation sufficiently clever, with an abundance of goodness, and -liberal benevolent feeling shining through it. We retired to our room, -where Mrs. ---- made me laugh extremely with sundry passages of her -American experiences. I was particularly amused with her account of -their stopping, after a long day's journey, at an inn somewhere, when -the hostess, who remained in the room the whole time, addressed her as -follows: "D'ye play?" pointing to an open piano-forte. Mrs. ---- replied -that she did so sometimes; whereupon the free-and-easy landlady ordered -candles, and added, "Come, sit down and give us a tune, then;" to which -courteous and becoming invitation Mrs. ---- replied by taking up her -candle, and walking out of the room. The pendant to this is Mr. ----'s -story. He sent a die of his crest to a manufacturer, to have it put upon -his gig harness. The man sent home the harness, when it was finished, -but without the die; after sending for which sundry times, Mr. ---- -called to enquire after it himself, when the reply was:-- - -"Lord! why I didn't know you wanted it." - -"I tell you, I wish to have it back." - -"Oh, pooh! you can't want it much, now--do you?" - -"I tell you, sir, I desire to have the die back immediately." - -"Ah well, come now, what'll you take for it?" - -"D'ye think I mean to sell my crest? why you might as well ask me to -sell my name." - -"Why, you see, a good many folks have seen it, and want to have it on -their harness, as it's a pretty looking concern enough." - -So much for their ideas of a crest. This though, by the by, happened -some years ago. - -After the gentlemen joined us, my father made me sing to them, which I -did with rather a bad grace, as I don't think any body wished to hear me -but himself. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Dr. ---- is perfectly enchanting. They left us at about eleven. Came to -bed. - - -_Sunday, 23d._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, went to church with D----. There is no -such thing, I perceive, as a pew-opener; so, after standing sufficiently -long in the middle of the church, we established ourselves very -comfortably in a pew, where we remained unmolested. The day was most -lovely, and my eyes were constantly attracted to the church windows, -through which the magnificent willows of the burial-ground looked like -golden green fountains rising into the sky. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The singing in church was excellent, and Dr. ----'s sermon very good, -too: he wants sternness; but that is my particular fancy about a -clergyman, and by most people would be accounted no want. It was not -sacrament Sunday; D---- was disappointed; and I mistaken. Mr. ---- -walked home with us. After church, wrote journal. ---- called, and sat -with us during dinner, telling us stories of the flogging of slaves, as -he himself had witnessed it in the south, that forced the colour into my -face, the tears into my eyes, and strained every muscle in my body with -positive rage and indignation: he made me perfectly sick with it. When -he was gone, my father went to Colonel ----'s. I played all through Mr. -----'s edition of Cinderella, and then wrote three long letters, which -kept me up till nearly one o'clock. Oh, bugs, fleas, flies, ants, and -musquitoes, great is the misery you inflict upon me! I sit slapping my -own face all day, and lie thumping my pillow all night: 'tis a perfect -nuisance to be devoured of creatures _before_ one's in the ground; it -isn't fair. Wrote to Mr. ----, to ask if he would ride with me on -Tuesday. I am dying to be on horseback again. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Monday, 24th._ - -Rose at eight: went and took a bath. After breakfast, went to rehearsal: -Venice Preserved, with Mr. Keppel, who did not appear to me to know the -words even, and seemed perfectly bewildered at being asked to do the -common business of the piece. "Mercy on me! what will he do to-night?" -thought I. Came home and got things ready for the theatre. Received a -visit from poor Mr. ----, who has got the lumbago, as Sir Peter would -say, "on purpose," I believe, to prevent my riding out to-morrow. Dined -at three: after dinner, played and sang through Cinderella; wrote -journal: at six, went to the theatre. My gown was horribly ill-plaited, -and I looked like a blue bag. The house was very full, and they received -Mr. K---- with acclamations and shouts of applause. When I went on, I -was all but tumbling down at the sight of my Jaffier, who looked like -the apothecary in Romeo and Juliet, with the addition of some devilish -red slashes along his thighs and arms. The first scene passed well and -so: but, oh, the next, and the next, and the next to that! Whenever he -was not glued to my side (and that was seldom), he stood three yards -behind me; he did nothing but seize my hand, and grapple to it so hard, -that unless I had knocked him down (which I felt much inclined to try), -I could not disengage myself. In the senate scene, when I was entreating -for mercy, and _struggling_, as Otway has it, for my life, he was -prancing round the stage in every direction, flourishing his dagger in -the air: I wish to Heaven I had got up and run away: it would but have -been natural, and have served him extremely right. In the parting -scene,--oh what a scene it was!--instead of going away from me when he -said "farewell for ever," he stuck to my skirts, though in the same -breath that I adjured him, in the words of my part, not to leave me, I -added, aside, "Get away from me, oh _do_!" When I exclaimed, "Not one -kiss at parting," he kept embracing and kissing me like mad: and when I -ought to have been pursuing him, and calling after him, "Leave thy -dagger with me," he hung himself up against the wing, and remained -dangling there for five minutes. I was half crazy! and the good people -sat and swallowed it all: they deserved it, by my troth, they did. I -prompted him constantly; and once, after struggling in vain to free -myself from him, was obliged, in the middle of my part, to exclaim, "You -hurt me dreadfully, Mr. Keppel!" He clung to me, cramped me, crumpled -me,--dreadful! I never experienced any thing like this before, and made -up my mind that I never would again. I played of course like a wretch, -finished my part as well as I could, and, as soon as the play was over, -went to my father and Mr. Simpson, and declared to them both my -determination not to go upon the stage again, with that gentleman for a -hero. Three trials are as many as, in reason, any body can demand, and, -come what come may, _I_ will not be subjected to this sort of experiment -again. At the end of the play, the clever New Yorkians actually called -for Mr. Keppel! and this most worthless clapping of hands, most -worthlessly bestowed upon such a worthless object, is what, by the -nature of my craft, I am bound to care for; I spit at it from the bottom -of my soul! Talking of applause, the man who acted Bedamar to-night -thought fit to be two hours dragging me off the stage; in consequence of -which I had to scream, "Jaffier, Jaffier," till I thought I should have -broken a blood-vessel. On my remonstrating with him upon this, he said, -"Well, you are rewarded, listen:" the people were clapping and shouting -vehemently: this is the whole history of acting and actors. We came home -tired, and thoroughly disgusted, and found no supper. The cooks, who do -not live in the house, but come and do their work, and depart home -whenever it suits their convenience, had not thought proper to stay to -prepare any supper for us: so we had to wait for the readiest things -that could be procured out of doors for us--this was pleasant[18]--very! -At last appeared a cold boiled fowl, and some monstrous oysters, that -looked for all the world like an antediluvian race of oysters, "for in -those days there were giants." Six mouthfuls each: they were -well-flavoured; but their size displeased my eye, and I swallowed but -one, and came to bed. - - -_Friday, 28th._ - -A letter from England, the first from dear ----. D---- brought it me -while I was dressing, and oh, how welcome, how welcome it was! - - * * * * * - -After breakfast went to rehearsal: Much Ado about Nothing. Came home, -wrote journal, put out things for the theatre, dined at three. After -dinner, ---- called. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Mr. ---- called, and sat with us till six o'clock. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I constantly sit thunderstruck at the amazing number of unceremonious -questions which people here think fit to ask one, and, moreover, expect -one to answer. Went to the theatre; the house was not good. The Italians -were expected to sing for the first time; they did not, however, but in -the mean time thinned our house. - -I would give the world to see Mr. ---- directing the public taste, by an -oeillade, and leading the public approbation, by a gracious tapping of -his supreme hand upon his ineffable snuff-box; he reminds me of high -life below stairs. The play went off very well; I played well, and my -dresses looked beautiful; my father acted to perfection. I never saw any -thing so gallant, gay, so like a gentlemen, so full of brilliant, -buoyant, refined spirit; he looked admirably, too. Mr. ---- was behind -the scenes; speaking to me of my father's appearance in Pierre, he said -he reminded him of Lord ----. I could not forbear asking him how long he -had been away from England? he replied, four years. Truly, four years -will furnish him matter of astonishment when he returns. Swallow Street -is grown into a line of palaces; the Strand is a broad magnificent -avenue, where all the wealth of the world seems gathered together; and -Lord ----, the "observed of all observers," is become a red-faced fat -old man. "Och, Time! can't ye be aisy now!" - - -_Sunday, 30th._ - -Rose late, did not go to church; sat writing letters all the morning. -Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- called. What a character that Mr. ---- is! Colonel ----- called, and wanted to take my father out; but we were all inditing -espistles to go to-morrow by the dear old Pacific. At three o'clock, -went to church with Mrs. ---- and Mr. ----. I like Dr. ---- most -extremely. His mild, benevolent, Christian view of the duties and -blessings of life is very delightful; and the sound practical doctrine -he preaches "good for edification." - - * * * * * - -It poured with rain, but they sent a coach for us from the inn; came -home, dressed for dinner. D---- and I dined _tête-à-tête_. After dinner, -sat writing letters for Mr. ----'s bag till ten o'clock: came to my own -room, undressed, and began a volume to dear ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I did not get to bed till three o'clock: in spite of all which I am as -fat as an overstuffed pincushion. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Select specimens of American pronunciation:-- - - - vaggaries, vagaries. - ad infinnitum, ad infinitum. - vitupperate, vituperate. - - -_Monday, October 1st._ - -While I was out, Captain ---- called for our letters. Saw Mr. ----, and -bade him good-by: they are going away to-day to Havre, to Europe; I wish -I was a nail in one of their trunks. After breakfast, went to rehearse -King John: what a lovely mess they will make of it, to be sure! When my -sorrows were ended, my father brought me home: found a most lovely -nosegay from Mr. ---- awaiting me. Bless it! how sweet it smelt, and how -pretty it looked. Spent an hour delightfully in putting it into water. -Got things ready for to-night, practised till dinner, and wrote journal. -My father received a letter to-day, informing him that a cabal was -forming by the friends of Miss Vincent and Miss Clifton (native talent!) -to hiss us off the New York stage, if possible; if not, to send people -in every night to create a disturbance during our best scenes: the -letter is anonymous, and therefore little deserving of attention. After -dinner, practised till time to go to the theatre. The house was very -full; but what a cast! what a play! what botchers! what butchers! In his -very first scene, the most christian king stuck fast; and there he -stood, shifting his truncheon from hand to hand, rolling his eyes, -gasping for breath, and struggling for words, like a man in the -night-mare. I thought of Hamlet--"Leave thy damnable faces"--and was -obliged to turn away. In the scene before Angiers, when the French and -English heralds summon the citizens to the walls, the Frenchman applied -his instrument to his mouth, uplifted his chest, distended his cheeks, -and appeared to blow furiously; not a sound! he dropped his arm, and -looked off the stage in discomfiture and indignation, when the perverse -trumpet set up a blast fit to waken the dead,--the audience roared: it -reminded me of the harp in the old ballad, that "began to play alone." -Chatillon, on his return from England, begged to assure us that with -King John was come the mother queen, an _Anty_ stirring him to blood and -war. When Cardinal Pandulph came on, the people set up a shout, as -usual: he was dreadfully terrified, poor thing; and all the time he -spoke kept giving little nervous twitches to his sacred petticoat, in a -fashion that was enough to make one die of laughter. He was as -obstinate, too, in his bewilderment as a stuttering man in his -incoherency; for once, when he stuck fast, having twitched his skirts, -and thumped his breast in vain for some time, I thought it best, having -to speak next, to go on; when, lo and behold! in the middle of my -speech, the "scarlet sin" recovers his memory, and shouts forth the end -of his own, to the utter confusion of my august self and the audience. I -thought they never would have got through my last scene: king gazed at -cardinal, and cardinal gazed at king; king nodded and winked at the -prompter, spread out his hands, and remained with his mouth open: -cardinal nodded and winked at the prompter, crossed his hands on his -breast, and remained with his mouth open; neither of them uttering a -syllable! What a scene! O, what a glorious scene! Came home as soon as -my part was over. Supped, and sat up for my father. Heard his account of -the end, and came to bed.[19] - - -_Wednesday, 3d._ - -Rose late. After breakfast, went to rehearsal: what a mess I do make of -Bizarre! Ellen Tree and Mrs. Chatterly were angels to what I shall be, -yet I remember thinking them both bad enough. After all, if people -generally did but know the difficulty of doing well, they would be less -damnatory upon those who do ill. It is not easy to act well. After -rehearsal, went to Stewart's with D----. As we were proceeding up -Broadway to Bonfanti's,[20] I saw a man in the strangest attitude -imaginable, absolutely setting at us: presently he pounced, and who -should it be but ----. He came into Bonfanti's with us, and afterwards -insisted on escorting us to our various destinations; not, however, -without manifold and deep lamentations on his slovenly appearance and -dirty gloves. The latter, however, he managed to exchange, _chemin -faisant_, for a pair of new ones, which he extracted from his pocket and -drew on, without letting go our arms, which he squeezed most -unmercifully during the operation. We went through a part of the town -which I had never seen before. The shops have all a strange fair-like -appearance, and exhibit a spectacle of heterogeneous disorder, which -greatly amazes the eye of a Londoner. The comparative infancy in which -most of the adornments of life are yet in this country, renders it -impossible for the number of distinct trades to exist that do among us, -where the population is so much denser, and where the luxurious -indulgences of the few find ample occupation for the penurious industry -of the many. But here, one man drives several trades; and in every shop -you meet with a strange incongruous mixture of articles for sale, which -would be found nowhere in England, but in the veriest village -huckster's. Comparatively few of the objects for sale can be exposed in -the windows, which are, unlike our shop windows, narrow and ill adapted -for the display of goods: but piles of them lie outside the doors, -choking up the pathway, and coloured cloths, flannels, shawls, etc., are -suspended about in long draperies, whose vivid colours flying over the -face of the houses give them an untidy, but at the same time a gay, -flaunting appearance. We went into a shop to buy some stockings, and -missing our _preux chevalier_, I turned round to look for him; when I -perceived him beautifying most busily before a glass in a further corner -of the shop. He had seized on a sort of house brush, and began brooming -his hat: the next operation was to produce a small pocket-comb and -arrange his disordered locks; lastly, he transferred the services of the -brush of all work from his head to his feet, and having dusted his -boots, drawn himself up in his surtout, buttoned its two lower buttons, -and given a reforming grasp to his neckcloth, he approached us, -evidently much advanced in his own good graces. We went to the -furrier's, and brought away my dark boa. Came home, put out things for -packing up, and remained so engaged till time to dress for dinner. Mr. -and Mrs. ---- and Mr. ---- dined with us. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Mr. ---- is an Englishman of the high breed, and sufficiently pleasant. -After dinner we had to withdraw into our bed-room, for the house is so -full that they can't cram any thing more into an inch of it. - -Joined the gentlemen at tea. Mr. ---- had gone to the theatre: Mr. ---- -and I had some music. He plays delightfully, and knows every note of -music that ever was written; but he had the barbarity to make me sing a -song of his own composing to him, which is a cruel thing in a man to do. -He went away at about eleven, and we then came to bed. My father went to -see Miss Clifton, at the Bowery theatre. - - -_Thursday, 4th._ - -Rose late. After breakfast, went to rehearsal: my Bizarre is getting a -little more into shape. After rehearsal, came home. Mr. ---- and Mr. ----- called, and sat some time with me. The former is tolerably -pleasant, but a little too fond of telling good stories that he has told -before. Put out things for the theatre: dined at three. Colonel ----- called. Wrote journal: while doing so, was called out to look at my -gown, which the worthy milliner had sent home. - - - I am, I am an angel! Witness it, heaven! - Witness it earth, and every being witness it! - The gown was spoil'd! Yet by immortal patience - I did not even fly into a passion. - - -She took it back to alter it. Presently arrived my wreath, and that had -also to be taken back; for 't was nothing like what I had ordered. Now -all this does not provoke me; but the thing that does, is the dreadful -want of manners of the tradespeople here. They bolt into your room -without knocking, nod to you, sit down, and without the preface of -either Sir, Ma'am, or Miss, start off into "Well now, I'm come to speak -about so and so." At six, went to the theatre; play, the Hunchback: the -house was crammed from floor to ceiling. I had an intense headach, but -played tolerably well. I wore my red satin, and looked like a bonfire. -Came home and found Smith's Virginia, and two volumes of Graham's -America, which I want to read. They charge twelve dollars for these: -every thing is horribly dear here. Came to bed with my head splitting. - - -_Friday, 5th._ - -Played Bizarre for the first time. Acted so-so, looked very pretty, the -house was very fine, and my father incomparable: they called for him -after the play. Colonel ---- and Mr. ---- called in while we were at -supper. - - -_Saturday, 6th._ - -Rose late: when I came in to breakfast, found Colonel ---- sitting in -the parlour. He remained for a long time, and we had sundry discussions -on topics manifold. It seems that the blessed people here were shocked -at my having to hear the coarseness of Farquhar's -Inconstant--humbug![21] - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At twelve, went out shopping, and paying bills; called upon Mrs. ----, -and sat some time with her and Mrs. ----; left a card at Mrs. ----'s, -and came home, prepared things for our journey, and dressed for dinner. -On our way to Mr. ----'s, my father told me he had been seeing Miss -Clifton, the girl they want him to teach to act; (to _teach_ to act, -quotha!!!) He says, she is very pretty indeed, with fine eyes, a fair -delicate skin, and a handsome mouth; moreover, a tall woman, and yet -from the front of the house her effect is nought. What a pity, and a -provoking! A pleasant dinner, very. Mr. ---- the poet, one Dr. ----, -Colonel ----, and Mr. ----: the only woman was a Miss ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -----'s face reminded me of young ----: the countenance was not quite so -good, but there was the same radiant look about the eyes and forehead. -His expression was strongly sarcastic; I liked him very much -notwithstanding. When we left the men, we had the pleasure of the -children's society, and that of an unhappy kitten, whom a little -pitiless urchin of three years old was carrying crumpled under her arm -like a pincushion. The people here make me mad by abusing Lawrence's -drawing of me. If ever there was a refined and intellectual work, where -the might of genius triumphing over every material impediment has -enshrined and embodied spirit itself, it is that. Talking of Lawrence, -(poor Lawrence!) Mrs. ---- said, "Ah, yes! your picture -by--a--Sir--something--Lawrence!" Oh, fame! oh, fame! Oh, vanity and -vexation of spirit! does your eternity and your infinitude amount to -this? There are lands where Shakspeare's name was never heard, where -Raphael and Handel are unknown; to be sure, for the matter of that, -there are regions (and those wide ones too) where Jesus Christ is -unknown. At nine o'clock, went to the Richmond Hill theatre, to see the -opening of the Italian company. The house itself is a pretty little box -enough, but as bad as a box to sing in. We went to Mr. ----'s box, where -he was kind enough to give us seats. The first act was over, but we had -all the benefit of the second. I had much ado not to laugh: and when Mr. -----, that everlasting giggler, came and sat down beside me, I gave -myself up for lost. However, I did behave, in spite of two blue-bottles -of women, who by way of the sisters buzzed about the stage, singing -enough to set one's teeth on edge. Then came a very tall Dandini; by the -by, that man had a good bass voice, but Mr. ---- said it was the finest -he had heard since _Zucchelli_. O tempora! O mores! Zucchelli, that -prince of delicious baritones! However, as I said, the man has a good -bass voice; there was also a sufficiently good Pompolino. Montresor -banged himself about, broke his time, and made some execrable flourishes -in the Prince, whereat the enlightened New Yorkians applauded mightily. -But the Prima Donna! but the Cenerentola! Cospetto di Venere, what a -figure, and what a face! Indeed she was the very thing for a lower -housemaid, and I think the Prince was highly to blame for removing her -from the station nature had evidently intended her for. She was old and -ugly, and worse than ugly, unpardonably common-looking, with a cast in -her eye, and a foot that, as Mr. ---- observed, it would require a -_pretty considerable_ large glass slipper to fit. Then she -sang--discords and dismay, how she did sing! I could not forbear -stealing a glance at ----: he applauded the sestett vehemently; but when -it came to that most touching "_nacqui al' affanno_," he wisely -interposed his handkerchief between the stage and his gracious -countenance. I thought of poor dear ----, and her sweet voice, and her -refined taste, and shuddered to hear this favourite of hers bedevilled -by such a Squalini. Now is it possible that people can be such fools as -to fancy this good in spite of their senses, or such earless asses -(that's a bull I suppose), as to suffer themselves to be persuaded that -it is? Though why do I ask it? Oh yes, "very easily possible." Do not -half the people in London spend money and time without end, enduring -nightly penances--listening to what they can't understand, and couldn't -appreciate if they did? I suppose if I shall allow a hundred out of the -whole King's Theatre audience to know any thing whatever about music, I -am wide in my grant of comprehension. There was that virtuous youth, Mr. -----, who evidently ranks as one of the cognoscenti here, who exclaimed -triumphantly at the end of one of the perpetrations, "Well, after all, -there's nothing like Rossini." Handel, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, and -Weber, are _not_, that is certain.[22] I wish I could have seen Mr. ---- -during that finale. Coming out, were joined by Mr. ----: brought him -home in the carriage with us. Gave him "Ye mariners of Spain," and some -cold tongue, to take the taste of the Cenerentola out of his mouth. He -stayed some time. I like him enough: he is evidently a clever man, -though he does murder the King's English. (By the by, does _English_, -the tongue, belong, in America, to the King or the President--I wonder? -I should rather think, from my limited observations, that it was the -individual property of every freeborn citizen of the United States.) -Now, what on earth can I say to the worthy citizens, if they ask me what -I thought of the Italian opera? That it was very amusing--yes, that will -do nicely; that will be true, and not too direct a condemnation of their -good taste. - - -_Sunday, 7th._ - -Rose late. Young ---- breakfasted with us. How unfortunately plain he -is! His voice is marvellously like his father's, and it pleased me to -hear him speak therefore. He was talking to my father about the various -southern and western theatres, and bidding us expect to meet strange -coadjutors in those lost lands beyond the world. On one occasion, he -said, when he was acting Richard the Third, some of the underlings kept -their hats on while he was on the stage, whereat ---- remonstrated, -requesting them in a whisper to uncover, as they were in the presence of -a king; to which admonition he received the following characteristic -reply: "Fiddlestick! I guess we know nothing about kings in this -country." Colonel ---- called too; but D---- and I went off to church, -and left my father to entertain them. Met Mr. ---- and Mr. ----, who -were coming to fetch us: went to Mr. ----'s pew. The music was very -delightful; but decidedly I do not like music in church. The less my -senses are appealed to in the house of prayer, the better for me and my -devotions. Although I have experienced excitement of a stern and -martial, and sometimes of a solemn, nature, from music, yet these melt -away, and its abiding influence with me is of a much softer kind: -therefore, in church, I had rather dispense with it, particularly when -they sing psalms, as they did to-day, to the tune of "Come dwell with -me, and be my love." I did not like the sermon much; there was effect in -it, painting, which I dislike. Staid the sacrament, the first I have -taken in this strange land. Mr. ---- walked home with us: when he was -gone, Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- called. When they had all taken their -departure, settled accounts, wrote journal, wrote to my mother, came and -put away sundry things, and dressed for dinner. My father dined with -Mr. ----: D---- and I dined _tête-à-tête_. Colonel ---- came twice -through the pouring rain to look after our baggage for to-morrow; such -charity is unexampled. - - -_Monday, 8th._ - -Rose (oh, horror!) at a quarter to five. Night was still brooding over -the earth. Long before I was dressed, the first voice I heard was that -of Colonel ----, come to look after our luggage, and see us off. To lend -my friend a thousand pounds (if I had it) I could--to lend him my horse, -perhaps I might; but to get up in the middle of the night, and come -dawdling in the grey cold hour of the morning upon damp quays, and among -dusty packages, except for my own flesh and blood, I could not. Yet this -worthy man did it for us; whence I pronounce that he must be half a -Quaker himself, for no common episcopal benevolence could stretch this -pitch. Dressed, and gathered together my things, and at six o'clock, -just as the night was folding its soft black wings, and rising slowly -from the earth, we took our departure from that mansion of little ease, -the American, and our fellow-lodgers the ants, and proceeded to the -Philadelphia steam-boat, which started from the bottom of Barclay -Street. We were recommended to this American Hotel as the best and most -comfortable in New York; and truly the charges were as high as one could -have paid at the Clarendon, in the land of comfort and taxation. The -wine was exorbitantly dear; champagne and claret about eleven shillings -sterling a bottle; sherry, port, and madeira, from nine to thirteen. The -rooms were a mixture of French finery and Irish disorder and dirt; the -living was by no means good; the whole house being conducted on a close -scraping system of inferior accommodations and extravagant charges. On a -sudden influx of visiters, sitting-rooms were converted into bed-rooms, -containing four and five beds. The number of servants was totally -inadequate to the work; and the articles of common use, such as knives -and spoons, were so scantily provided, that when the public table was -very full one day, the knives and forks for our dinner were obliged to -be washed from theirs; and the luxury of a carving-knife was not to be -procured at all on that occasion: it is true that they had sometimes as -many as two hundred and fifty guests at the ordinary. The servants, who, -as I said before, were just a quarter as many as the house required, had -no bed-rooms allotted to them, but slept _about_ any where, in the -public rooms, or on sofas in drawing-rooms, let to private families. In -short, nothing can exceed the want of order, propriety, and comfort in -this establishment, except the enormity of the tribute it levies upon -pilgrims and wayfarers through the land.[23] And so, as I said, we -departed therefrom nothing loath. - -The morning was dull, dreary, and damp, which I regretted very much. The -steam-boat was very large and commodious, as all these conveyances are. -I enquired of one of the passengers what the power of the engine was: he -replied that he did not exactly know, but that he thought it was about -forty-horse power; and that, when going at speed, the engine struck -thirty times in a minute: this appeared to me a great number in so short -a time; but the weather shortly became wet and drizzly, and I did not -remain on deck to observe. My early rising had made me very sleepy, so I -came down to the third deck to sleep. These steam-boats have three -stories; the upper one is, as it were, a roofing or terrace on the leads -of the second, a very desirable station when the weather is neither too -foul nor too fair; a burning sun being, I should think, as little -desirable there as a shower of rain. The second floor or deck has the -advantage of the ceiling above, and yet, the sides being completely -open, it is airy, and allows free sight of the shores on either hand. -Chairs, stools, and benches, are the furniture of these two decks. The -one below, or third floor downwards, in fact, the _ground floor_, being -the one near the water, is a spacious room completely roofed and walled -in, where the passengers take their meals, and resort if the weather is -unfavourable. At the end of this room is a smaller cabin for the use of -the ladies, with beds and a sofa, and all the conveniences necessary, if -they should like to be sick; whither I came and slept till breakfast -time. Vigne's account of the pushing, thrusting, rushing, and devouring -on board a western steam-boat at meal times had prepared me for rather -an awful spectacle; but this, I find, is by no means the case in these -more civilised parts, and every thing was conducted with perfect order, -propriety, and civility. The breakfast was good, and served and eaten -with decency enough. Came up on the upper deck, and walked about with my -father. The width of the river struck me as remarkable; but the shores -were flat, and for the most part uninteresting, except for the rich and -various tints which the thickets of wood presented, and which are as -superior in brilliancy and intenseness to our autumnal colouring as -their gorgeous skies are to ours. Opposite the town of Amboy, the -Raritan opens into a magnificent lake-like expanse round the extreme -point of Staten Island.[24] As the shores on either side, however, were -not very interesting, I finished reading Combe's book. There is much -sound philosophy in it; but I do not think it altogether establishes the -main point that he wishes to make good--the truth of phrenology, and the -necessity of its being adopted as the only science of the human mind. -His general assertions admit of strong individual exceptions, which, I -think, go far towards invalidating the generality. However, 'tis not a -full development of his own system, but, as it were, only an -introduction to it; and his own admissions of the obscurity and -uncertainty in which that system is still involved necessarily enforces -a suspension of judgment, until its practical results have become more -manifest, and in some measure borne witness to the truth of his theory. -At about half-past ten we reached the place where we leave the river, to -proceed across a part of the State of New Jersey to the Delaware. The -landing was beyond measure wretched: the shore shelved down to the -water's edge; and its marshy, clayey, sticky soil, rendered doubly soft -and squashy by the damp weather, was strewn over with broken potsherds, -stones, and bricks, by way of pathway; these, however, presently failed, -and some slippery planks half immersed in mud were the only roads to the -coaches that stood ready to receive the passengers of the steam-boat. -Oh, these coaches! English eye hath not seen, English ear hath not -heard, nor hath it entered into the heart of Englishmen to conceive the -surpassing clumsiness and wretchedness of these leathern inconveniences. -They are shaped something like boats, the sides being merely leathern -pieces, removable at pleasure, but which, in bad weather, are buttoned -down, to protect the inmates from the wet. There are three seats in this -machine; the middle one, having a movable leathern strap, by way of a -dossier, runs between the carriage doors, and lifts away to permit the -egress and ingress of the occupants of the other seats. Into the one -facing the horses D---- and I put ourselves; presently two young ladies -occupied the opposite one; a third lady, and a gentleman of the same -party, sat in the middle seat, into which my father's huge bulk was also -squeezed; finally, another man belonging to the same party ensconced -himself between the two young ladies. Thus the two seats were filled, -each with three persons, and there should by rights have been a third on -ours; for this nefarious black hole on wheels is intended to carry nine. -However, we profited little by the space, for, letting alone that there -is not really and truly room for more than two human beings of common -growth and proportions on each of these seats, the third place was amply -filled up with baskets and packages of ours, and huge _undoubleableup_ -coats and cloaks of my father's. - -For the first few minutes I thought I must have fainted from the -intolerable sensation of smothering which I experienced. However, the -leathers having been removed, and a little more air obtained, I took -heart of grace, and resigned myself to my fate. Away wallopped the four -horses, trotting with their front and galloping with their hind legs; -and away went we after them, bumping, thumping, jumping, jolting, -shaking, tossing, and tumbling, over the wickedest road, I do think the -cruellest hard-heartedest road, that ever wheel rumbled upon. Thorough -bog and marsh, and ruts wider and deeper than any christian ruts I ever -saw, with the roots of trees protruding across our path; their boughs -every now and then giving us an affectionate scratch through the -windows; and, more than once, a half-demolished trunk or stump lying in -the middle of the road lifting us up, and letting us down again, with -most awful variations of our poor coach body from its natural position. -Bones of me! what a road![25] Even my father's solid proportions could -not keep their level, but were jerked up to the roof and down again -every three minutes. Our companions seemed nothing dismayed by these -wondrous performances of a coach and four, but laughed and talked -incessantly, the young ladies, at the very top of their voices, and with -the national nasal twang.[26] The conversation was much of the _genteel_ -shopkeeper kind; the wit of the ladies, and the gallantry of the -gentlemen, savouring strongly of tapes and yard measures, and the -shrieks of laughter of the whole set enough to drive one into a frenzy. -The ladies were all pretty; two of them particularly so, with delicate -fair complexions, and beautiful grey eyes: how I wish they could have -held their tongues for two minutes! We had not long been in the coach -before one of them complained of being dreadfully sick.[27] This, in -such a space, and with seven near neighbours! Fortunately she was near -the window; and during our whole fourteen miles of purgatory she -alternately leaned from it overcome with sickness, then reclined -languishingly in the arms of her next neighbour, and then, starting up -with amazing vivacity, joined her voice to the treble duet of her two -pretty companions, with a superiority of shrillness that might have been -the pride and envy of Billingsgate. 'Twas enough to bother a rookery! -The country through which we passed was woodland, flat, and without -variety, save what it derived from the wondrous richness and brilliancy -of the autumnal foliage. Here indeed decay is beautiful; and nature -appears more gorgeously clad in this her fading mantle, than in all the -summer's flush of bloom in our less-favoured climates.[28] I noted -several beautiful wild flowers growing among the underwood; some of -which I have seen adorning with great dignity our most cultivated -gardens.[29] None of the trees had any size or appearance of age: they -are the second growth, which have sprung from the soil once possessed by -a mightier race of vegetables. The quantity of mere underwood, and the -number of huge black stumps rising in every direction a foot or two from -the soil, bear witness to the existence of fine forest timber. The few -cottages and farm-houses which we passed reminded me of similar -dwellings in France and Ireland; yet the peasantry here have not the -same excuse for disorder and dilapidation as either the Irish or French. -The farms had the same desolate, untidy, untended look: the gates -broken, the fences carelessly put up, or ill repaired; the -farming-utensils sluttishly scattered about a littered yard, where the -pigs seemed to preside by undisputed right; house-windows broken, and -stuffed with paper or clothes; dishevelled women, and barefooted -anomalous-looking human young things; none of the stirring life and -activity which such places present in England and Scotland; above all, -none of the enchanting mixture of neatness, order, and rustic elegance -and comfort, which render so picturesque the surroundings of a farm, and -the various belongings of agricultural labour in my own dear -country.[30] The fences struck me as peculiar; I never saw any such in -England. They are made of rails of wood placed horizontally, and meeting -at obtuse angles, so forming a zig-zag wall of wood, which runs over the -country like the herring-bone seams of a flannel petticoat. At each of -the angles two slanting stakes, considerably higher than the rest of the -fence, were driven into the ground, crossing each other at the top, so -as to secure the horizontal rails in their position.[31] - -There was every now and then a soft vivid strip of turf, along the -road-side, that made me long for a horse. Indeed the whole road would -have been a delightful ride, and was a most bitter drive. At the end of -fourteen miles we turned into a swampy field, the whole fourteen -coachfuls of us, and, by the help of Heaven, bag and baggage were packed -into the coaches which stood on the rail-way ready to receive us. The -carriages were not drawn by steam, like those on the Liverpool rail-way, -but by horses, with the mere advantage in speed afforded by the iron -ledges, which, to be sure, compared with our previous progress through -the ruts, was considerable. Our coachful got into the first carriage of -the train, escaping, by way of especial grace, the dust which one's -predecessors occasion. This vehicle had but two seats, in the usual -fashion; each of which held four of us. The whole inside was lined with -blazing scarlet leather, and the windows _shaded_ with stuff curtains of -the same refreshing colour; which, with full complement of passengers, -on a fine, sunny, American summer's day, must make as pretty a little -miniature hell as may be, I should think. The baggage-waggon, which went -before us, a little obstructed the view. The road was neither pretty nor -picturesque; but still fringed on each side with the many-coloured -woods, whose rich tints made variety even in sameness. This rail-road is -an infinite blessing; 'tis not yet finished, but shortly will be so, and -then the whole of that horrible fourteen miles will be performed in -comfort and decency in less than half the time. In about an hour and a -half we reached the end of our rail-road part of the journey, and found -another steam-boat waiting for us, when we all embarked on the -Delaware. Again, the enormous width of the river struck me with -astonishment and admiration. Such huge bodies of water mark out the -country through which they run, as the future abode of the most -extensive commerce and greatest maritime power in the universe. The -banks presented much the same features as those of the Raritan, though -they were not quite so flat, and more diversified with scattered -dwellings, villages, and towns. We passed Bristol and Burlington, -stopping at each of them to take up passengers.[32] I sat working, -having finished my book, not a little discomfited by the pertinacious -staring of some of my fellow-travellers. One woman, in particular, after -wandering round me in every direction, at last came and sat down -opposite me, and literally gazed me out of countenance. One improvement -they have adopted on board these boats is to forbid smoking, except in -the fore part of the vessel. I wish they would suggest that, if the -gentlemen would refrain from spitting about too, it would be highly -agreeable to the female part of the community. The universal practice -here of this disgusting trick makes me absolutely sick: every place is -made a perfect piggery of--street, stairs, steam-boat, everywhere--and -behind the scenes; on the stage at rehearsal I have been shocked and -annoyed beyond expression by this horrible custom. To-day, on board the -boat, it was a perfect shower of saliva all the time; and I longed to be -released from my fellowship with these very obnoxious chewers of -tobacco.[33] At about four o'clock we reached Philadelphia, having -performed the journey between that and New York (a distance of a hundred -miles) in less than ten hours, in spite of bogs, ruts, and all other -impediments. The manager came to look after us and our goods; and we -were presently stowed into a coach, which conveyed us to the Mansion -House, the best-reputed inn in Philadelphia. On asking for our -bed-rooms, they showed D---- and myself into a double-bedded room. On my -remonstrating against this, the chambermaid replied, that they were not -accustomed to allow lodgers so _much room_ as a room apiece. However, -upon my insisting, they gave me a little nest just big enough to turn -about in, but where, at least, I can be by myself. Dressed, and dined at -five; after dinner, wrote journal till tea-time, and then came to bed. - - -_Tuesday, 9th._ - -Rose at half-past eight. Went and took a bath. On my way thither, drove -through two melancholy-looking squares, which reminded me a little of -poor old Queen Square in Bristol. The ladies' baths were closed, but, as -I was not particular, they gave me one in the part of the house usually -allotted to the men's use. I was much surprised to find two baths in one -room, but it seems to me that the people of this country have an -aversion to solitude, whether eating, sleeping, or under any other -circumstances. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I made acquaintance with a bewitching Newfoundland puppy, whom I greatly -coveted. Came home, dressed, and breakfasted. After breakfast, righted -my things, and wrote journal. Took a walk with my father through some of -the principal streets. The town is perfect silence and solitude, -compared with New York; there is a greater air of age about it too, -which pleases me. The red houses are not so fiercely red, nor the white -facings so glaringly white; in short, it has not so new and flaunting a -look, which is a great recommendation to me. The city is regularly -built, the streets intersecting each other at right angles. We passed -one or two pretty buildings in pure white marble, and the Bank in -Chestnut Street, which is a beautiful little copy of the Parthenon. The -pure, cold, clear-looking marble suits well with the severe and -unadorned style of architecture; and is in harmony, too, with the -extreme brilliancy of the sky, and clearness of the atmosphere of this -country.[34] We passed another larger building, also a bank, in the -Corinthian style, which did not please me so much. The shops here are -much better looking than those at New York: the windows are larger, and -more advantageously constructed for the display of goods; and there did -not appear to be the same anomalous mixture of vendibles, as in the New -York shops. The streets were very full of men hurrying to the -town-house, to give their votes. It is election time, and much -excitement subsists with regard to the choice of the future -President.[35] The democrats or radicals are for the re-election of -General Jackson, but the aristocratic party, which here at all events is -the strongest, are in favour of Henry Clay. Here is the usual quantity -of shouting and breaking windows that we are accustomed to on these -occasions. I saw a caricature of Jackson and Van Buren, his chief -supporter, which was entitled "The King and his Minister." Van Buren -held a crown in his hand, and the devil was approaching Jackson with a -sceptre.--Came in at half-past four, dressed for dinner: they gave us an -excellent one. The master of this house was, it seems, once a man of -independent fortune, and a great _bon vivant_. He has retained from -thence a fellow-feeling for his guests, and does by them as he would be -done by. After dinner, worked till tea-time; after tea, wrote journal, -and now I'll go to bed. We are attended here by a fat old lively negro, -by name Henry, who canters about in our behalf with great alacrity, and -seems wrapt in much wonderment at many of our proceedings. By the by, -the black who protected our baggage from the steam-boat was ycleped -_Oliver Cromwell_. I have begun Grahame's History of America, and like -it "mainly," as the old plays say. - - -_Wednesday, 10th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, trimmed a cap, and wrote to dear ----. -The streets were in an uproar all night, people shouting and bonfires -blazing; in short, electioneering fun, which seems to be pretty much the -same all the world over. Clay has it hollow here, they say: I wonder -what Colonel ---- will say to that. At twelve o'clock, sallied forth -with D---- to rehearsal. The theatre is very pretty; not large but well -sized, and, I should think, favourably constructed for the voice. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Unless Aldabella is irresistibly lovely, as well as wicked, there is no -accounting for the conduct of Fazio. My own idea of her, as well as -Milman's description, is every thing that can be conceived of splendid -in beauty, sparkling in wit, graceful in deportment, gorgeous in -apparel, and deep and dangerous in crafty wiliness; in short, the old -serpent in the shape of Mrs. ----. I wish Mrs. ---- would act that part: -I could act it well enough, but she would both act and look it, to the -very life. After rehearsal, walked about the town in quest of some -_coques de perle_ for my Bianca dress: could not procure any. I like -this town extremely: there is a look of comfort and cleanliness, and -withal of age about it, which pleases me. It is quieter, too, than New -York, and though not so gay, for that very reason is more to my fancy; -the shops, too, have a far better appearance. New York always gave me -the idea of an irregular collection of temporary buildings, erected for -some casual purpose, full of life, animation, and variety, but not meant -to endure for any length of time; a fair, in short. This place has a -much more substantial, sober, and city-like appearance. Came home at -half-past two. In the hall met Mr. ----, who is grown ten years younger -since I saw him last: it always delights me to see one of my -fellow-passengers, and I am much disappointed in not finding ---- here. -Dined at three; after dinner, read my father some of my journal; went on -with letter to ----, and then went and dressed myself. Took coffee, and -adjourned to the theatre. The house was very full, but not so full as -the Park on the first night of his acting in New York, which accounts -for the greater stillness of the audience. I watched my father narrowly -through his part to-night with great attention and some consequent -fatigue, and the conclusion I have come to is this: that though his -workmanship may be, and is, far finer _in the hand_ than that of any -other artist I ever saw, yet its very minute accuracy and refinement -renders it unfit for the frame in which it is exhibited. Whoever should -paint a scene calculated for so large a space as a theatre, and destined -to be viewed at the distance from which an audience beholds it, with the -laborious finish and fine detail of a miniature, would commit a great -error in judgment. Nor would he have the least right to complain, -although the public should prefer the coarser yet far more effective -work of a painter, who, neglecting all refinement and niceness of -execution, should merely paint with such full colouring, and breadth and -boldness of touch, as to produce in the wide space he is called upon to -fill, and upon the remote senses he appeals to, the _effect_ of that -which he intends to represent. Indeed he is the better artist of the -two, though probably not the most intellectual man. For it is the part -of such a one to know exactly what will best convey to the mass of mind -and feeling to which he addresses himself the emotions and passions -which he wishes them to experience.[36] Now the great beauty of all my -father's performances, but particularly of Hamlet, is a wonderful -accuracy in the detail of the character which he represents; an accuracy -which modulates the emphasis of every word, the nature of every gesture, -the expression of every look; and which renders the whole a most -laborious and minute study, toilsome in the conception and acquirement, -and most toilsome in the execution. But the result, though the natural -one, is not such as he expects, as the reward of so much labour. Few -persons are able to follow such a performance with the necessary -attention, and it is almost as great an exertion to see it -_understandingly_, as to act it. The amazing study of it requires a -study in those who are to appreciate it, and, as I take it, this is far -from being what the majority of spectators are either capable or -desirous of doing; the actor loses his pains, and they have but little -pleasure. Those who perform, and those who behold a play, have but a -certain proportion of power of exciting, and capability of being -excited. If, therefore, the actor expends his power of exciting, and his -audience's power of being excited, upon the detail of the piece, and -continues through five whole acts to draw from both, the main and -striking points, those of strongest appeal, those calculated most to -rouse at once, and gratify the emotions of the spectator, have not the -same intensity or vigour that they would have had, if the powers of both -actor and audience had been reserved to give them their fullest effect. -A picture requires light and shadow; and the very relief that throws -some of the figures in a fine painting into apparent obscurity, in -reality enhances the effect produced by those over which the artist has -shed a stronger light. Every note in the most expressive song does not -require a peculiar expression; and an air sung with individual emphasis -on each note would be utterly unproductive of the desired effect. All -things cannot have all their component parts equal, and "nothing -pleaseth but rare accidents." This being so, I think that acting the -best which skilfully husbands the actor's and spectator's powers, and -puts forth the whole of the one, to call forth the whole of the other, -occasionally only; leaving the intermediate parts sufficiently level, to -allow him and them to recover the capability of again producing, and -again receiving, such impressions. It is constant that our finest nerves -deaden and dull from over-excitement, and require repose, before they -regain their acute power of sensation. At the same time, I am far from -advocating that most imperfect conception and embodying of a part which -Kean allows himself: literally acting detached passages alone, and -leaving all the others, and the entire character, indeed, utterly -destitute of unity, or the semblance of any consistency whatever. But -Kean and my father are immediately each other's antipodes, and, in -adopting their different styles of acting, it is evident that each has -been guided as much by his own physical and intellectual individuality, -as by any fixed principle of art. The one, Kean, possesses particular -physical qualifications; an eye like an orb of light, a voice, -exquisitely touching and melodious in its tenderness, and in the harsh -dissonance of vehement passion terribly true; to these he adds the -intellectual ones of vigour, intensity, amazing power of concentrating -effect; these give him an entire mastery over his audience in all -striking, sudden, impassioned passages, in fulfilling which he has -contented himself, leaving unheeded what he probably could not compass, -the unity of conception, the refinement of detail, and evenness of -execution.[37] My father possesses certain physical defects, a faintness -of colouring in the face and eye, a weakness of voice; and the -corresponding intellectual deficiencies, a want of intensity, vigour, -and concentrating power: these circumstances have led him (probably -unconsciously) to give his attention and study to the finer and more -fleeting shades of character, the more graceful and delicate -manifestations of feeling, the exquisite variety of all minor parts, the -classic keeping of a highly-wrought whole; to all these, polished and -refined tastes, an acute sense of the beauty of harmonious proportions, -and a native grace, gentleness, and refinement of mind and manner, have -been his prompters; but they cannot inspire those startling and -tremendous bursts of passion, which belong to the highest walks of -tragedy, and to which he never gave their fullest expression. I fancy my -aunt Siddons united the excellences of both these styles. But to return -to my father's Hamlet: every time I see it, something strikes me afresh -in the detail. Nothing in my mind can exceed the exquisite beauty of his -last "Go on--I follow thee," to the ghost. The full gush of deep and -tender faith, in spite of the awful mystery, to whose unfolding he is -committing his life, is beautiful beyond measure. It is distinct, and -wholly different from the noble, rational, philosophic conviction, "And -for my soul, what can it do to that?" It is full of the unutterable -fondness of a believing heart, and brought to my mind, last night, those -holy and lovely words of scripture, "Perfect love casteth out fear:" it -enchanted me.[38] There is one thing in which I do not believe my father -ever has been, or ever will be, excelled; his high and noble bearing, -his gallant, graceful, courteous deportment; his perfect good-breeding -on the stage; unmarked alike by any peculiarity of time, place, or self -(except peculiar grace and beauty). He appears to me the beau ideal of -the courtly, thorough-bred, chivalrous gentleman, from the days of the -admirable Crichton down to those of George the Fourth. Coming home after -the play, the marble buildings in the full moonlight reminded me of the -Ghost in Hamlet: they looked like pale majestic spirits, cold, calm, and -colourless. - - -_Thursday, 11th._ - -Rose rather late. After breakfast, wrote journal; at twelve, went to -rehearsal. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After rehearsal, came home, habited, and went to the riding-school to -try some horses. _Merci de moi!_ what quadrupeds! How they did wallop -and shamble about; poor half-broken dumb brutes! they know no better; -and as the natives here are quite satisfied with their shuffling, -rollicking, mongrel pace, half trot, half canter, why it is not worth -while to break horses in a christian-like fashion for them.[39] I found -something that I think my father can ride with tolerable comfort, but -must go again to-morrow and see after something for myself. Came home: -the enchanting Mr. Head has allowed me a piano-forte; but in bringing it -into the room, the stupid slave broke one of its legs off, whereat I was -like to faint, for I thought Mr. Head would wish me hanged therefor. -Nothing can exceed the civility of the people here, and the house is -extremely well kept, quiet, and comfortable. Came home in high delight -with this Quaker city, which is indeed very pretty and pleasant. Played -on the piano: dressed for dinner. After dinner, practised till tea-time, -finished journal, discussed metaphysics with D----, for which I am a -fool; wrote to-day's journal, and now to bed. I have a dreadful cold and -cough, and have done nothing but hack and snivel the whole day long: -this is a bad preparation for to-morrow's work. Howsoever---- - - -_Friday, 12th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, sat writing journal and letter to ----. -At half-past eleven, went to rehearsal. Afterwards walked down to the -riding-school with my father. The horse I was to look at had not -arrived; but my father saw the grey. We were there for some time; and -during that whole some time a tall, thin, unhappy-looking gentleman, who -had gotten up upon a great hulking rawboned horse, kept trotting round -and round, with his legs dangling down, _sans_ stirrups, at the rate of -a mile and a quarter an hour; occasionally ejaculating in the mildest of -tones, "keome--keome up;" whereat the lively brute, nothing persuaded, -proceeded in the very same pace, at the very same rate; and this went on -till I wondered at the man and the beast. Came home and put out things -for the theatre. My cold and cough are dreadful. After dinner, -practised: invented and executed a substitute for the _coques de perle_ -in my Bianca dress; and lay down to rest a little before my work. At -six, went to the theatre: the house was very full; and D---- and my -father say that I was extremely ungracious in my acknowledgment of their -greeting. I cannot tell; I did not mean to be so; I made them three -courtesies, and what could woman do more? Of course, I can neither feel -nor look so glad to see them as I am to see my own dear London people: -neither can I be as profound in my obeisance, as when my audience is -civil enough to rise to me: "there is differences, look you." - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -My Fazio had a pair of false black whiskers on, which distilled a black -stripe of trickling cement down his cheeks, and kept me in agony every -time he had to embrace me. My voice was horrible to hear; alternately -like Mrs. ---- and ----, and every now and then it was all I could do to -utter at all. This audience is the most unapplausive I ever acted to, -not excepting my _excitable_ friends north of the Tweed. They were very -attentive, certainly, but how they did make me work! 'Tis amazing how -much an audience loses by this species of hanging back, even where the -silence proceeds from unwillingness to interrupt a good performance: -though in reality it is the greatest compliment an actor can receive, -yet he is deprived by that very stillness of half his power. Excitement -is reciprocal between the performer and the audience: he creates it in -them, and receives it back again from them; and in that last scene in -Fazio, half the effect that I produce is derived from the applause -which I receive, the very noise and tumult of which tends to heighten -the nervous energy which the scene itself begets. I know that my aunt -Siddons has frequently said the same thing. And besides the above reason -for applause, the physical powers of an actor require, after any -tremendous exertion, the rest and regathering of breath and strength, -which the interruption of the audience affords him; moreover, as 'tis -the conventional mode of expressing approbation in a theatre, it is -chilling and uncomfortable to go toiling on, without knowing whether, as -the maidservants say, "one gives satisfaction or no." They made noise -enough, however, at the end of the play. Came home, supped, and to bed; -weary to death, and with a voice like a cracked bagpipe. - - -_Saturday, 13th._ - -Rose at half-past eight. After breakfast, wrote journal; practised for -an hour; got things ready for to-morrow; put on my habit, which I had no -sooner done than the perverse clouds began to rain. The horses came at -two, but the weather was so bad that I sent them away again. Practised -for another hour, read a canto in Dante, and dressed for dinner. After -dinner, worked and practised. Came to my own room, and tried to scribble -something for the Mirror, at my father's request; the editors having -made an especial entreaty to him that I might write something for them, -and also sit to some artist for them. I could not accomplish any thing, -and they must just take something that I have by me: as for my -physiognomy, that they shall certainly not have with my own good leave. -I will never expend so much useless time again as to sit for my picture; -nor will I let any unhappy painter again get abused for painting me as I -am, which is any thing but what I look like. Lawrence alone could do it: -there is no other that could see my spirit through my face; and as for -the face without that, the less that is seen of it the better. Came down -to tea, and found a young gentleman sitting with my father; one Mr. -----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -He was a pretty-spoken _genteel_ youth enough: he drank tea with us, and -offered to ride with me. He is, it seems, a great fortune; consequently, -I suppose (in spite of his inches), a great man. Now I'll go to bed: my -cough's enough to kill a horse. - - -_Sunday, 14th._ - -Rose late; so late that, by the time I had breakfasted, it was no longer -time to go to church. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Finished my first letter to ----. Mr. ---- called, and told us that he -was going about _agitating_, and that Jackson was certainly to be -re-elected. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At three o'clock D---- and I sallied forth to go to church. Following -the silver voices of the Sabbath bells, as they called the worshippers -to the house of prayer, we entered a church with a fine simple façade, -and found ourselves in the midst of a Presbyterian congregation. 'Tis -now upwards of eight years since, a school girl, I used to attend a -dissenters' chapel. The form of worship, though displeasing to me in -itself, borrowed a charm to-day from old association. How much of the -past it did recall! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came home and dressed for dinner. After dinner, half-killed myself with -laughter over an Irish version of Fazio, ycleped Grimaldi, from which -the author swears Milman has shamefully filched the plot, characters, -and even the language, I believe, of his drama. A gentleman of the -press, by name ----, paid us an evening visit. He seems an intelligent -young man enough; and when he spoke of the autumnal woods, by the Oneida -lake, his expressions were poetical and enthusiastic; and he pleased -me.[40] He seems to think much of having had the honour of -corresponding with sundry of the small literati of London. _Je lui en -fais mon compliment._ When he was gone, wrote another letter to ----; -journal, and now to bed. - - -_Monday, 15th._ - -Rose at eight; took a hot bath. The more I read of Grahame, the better I -like him and his history. Those early settlers in Massachusetts were -fine fellows, indeed; and Cotton, one of the finest samples of a -Christian priest imaginable. After breakfast, went to rehearsal. The day -was cold, but beautifully bright and clear. The pure, fresh, -invigorating air, and gay sunlight, together with the delightfully clean -streets, and pretty mixture of trees and buildings in this nice town, -caused me to rejoice, as I walked along.[41] After rehearsal, saw -Sinclair and his wife. So--we are to act the Gamester here. Went and -ordered a dress for that same, my own being at New York. Came home, put -out things for the theatre, practised an hour; dined at three. After -dinner, read a canto in Dante: he is my admiration!--great, great -master!--a philosopher profound, as all poets should be; a glorious -poet, as I wish all philosophers were. Sketched till dark. Chose a -beautiful claret-coloured velvet for Mrs. Beverley, which will cost Miss -Kemble eleven guineas, by this living light. At six, went to the -theatre. I never beheld any thing more gorgeous than the sky at sunset. -Autumn is an emperor here, clothed in crimson and gold, and canopied -with ruddy glowing skies. Yet I like the sad russet cloak of our own -autumnal woods; I like the sighing voice of his lament through the -vaporous curtain that rises round his steps; I like the music of the -withered leaves that rustle in his path; and oh, above all, the solemn -thoughts that wait upon him, as he goes stripping the trees of their -bright foliage, leaving them like the ungarlanded columns of a deserted -palace. The play was Romeo and Juliet. My father was the "youngest of -that name," for want of a better, or, rather, of a worse. How beautiful -this performance must have been, when the youthful form made that appear -natural which now seems the triumph of art over nature. Garrick said, -that to act Romeo required a grey head upon green shoulders. Indeed, -'tis difficult! Oh, that our sapient judges did but know half how -difficult. It is delightful to act with my father. One's imagination -need toil but little, to see in him the very thing he represents; -whereas, with all other Romeos, although they were much younger men, I -have had to do double work with that useful engine, my fancy: first, to -get rid of the material obstacle staring me in the face, and then to -substitute some more congenial representative of that sweetest vision of -youth and love. Once, only, this was not necessary. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The audience here are, without exception, the most disagreeable I ever -played to. Not a single hand did they give the balcony scene, or my -father's scene with the friar: they are literally immovable. They -applauded vehemently at the end of my draught scene, and a great deal at -the end of the play; but they are, nevertheless, intolerably dull; and -it is all but impossible to act to them. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The man who acted Capulet did it better than any Capulet I ever acted -with; and the nurse, besides looking admirably, acted her part very -well: and 'tis hard to please me, after poor dear old Mrs. Davenport. -The house was literally crammed from floor to ceiling. Came home tired -and hoarse; though my voice was a good deal better to-day. Mr. ----- supped with us. My father expected a visit from the haggling Boston -manager, and chose to have a witness to the conference. - - -_Tuesday, 16th._ - -Rose at nine. After breakfast, read a canto in Dante; wrote journal; -practised for an hour. The Boston manager, it seems, does not approve of -our terms; and after bargaining till past two o'clock last night with my -father, the latter, wearied out with his illiberal trafficking, and -coarse vulgarity of manner, declined the thing altogether: so, unless -the gentleman thinks better of the matter, we shall not go to Boston -this winter.[42] At one o'clock, habited; and at two, rode out with my -father. The day was most enchanting, mild, bright, and sunny; but the -roads were deplorable, and the country utterly dull. My horse was a -hard-mouthed half broken beast, without pace of any christian kind -soever; a perfect rack on hoofs: how it did jog and jumble me! However, -my bones are young, and my courage good, and I don't mind a little hard -work; but the road was so villanously bad, and the surrounding country -so weary, dull, stale, and unprofitable, that I was heartily sick of my -ride, when we turned towards Fairmount, the site of some large -water-works on the Schuylkill, by which Philadelphia is supplied with -water. On our right I descried, over some heights, a castellated -building of some extent, whose formidable appearance at least bespoke an -arsenal; but it was the entrance to the Penitentiary instead: and -presently the river, bright, and broad, and placid as a lake, with its -beautiful banks, and rainbow-tinted woods, opened upon us. We crossed a -covered wooden bridge, and followed the water's edge. The rich colours -of the foliage cast a warm light over the transparent face of the -mirror-like stream; and, far along the winding shores, a mingled mantle -of gorgeous glowing tints lay over the woody banks, and was reflected in -the still sunny river. Indeed, it was lovely! But our time was growing -short, and we had to turn home; which we did by a pleasant and more -direct path. My horse, towards the end of the ride, got more manageable; -and I doubt whether it would not be wiser to continue to ride it than -try another, which may be just as bad, and, moreover, a _stranger_. My -riding-cap seemed to excite universal marvel wherever we passed. We came -in at five o'clock; dressed, and dined. Just as I had finished dinner, a -most beautiful, fragrant, and delicious nosegay was brought to me, with -a very laconic note from a Philadelphia "_friend_," dashed under, as -though from a Quaker. Whoever 'tis from, Jew or Gentile, Puritan or -Pagan, he, she, or it hath my most unbounded gratitude. Spent an -ecstatic half hour in arranging my flowers in glasses; gave orders about -my Mrs. Beverley's gown, and began marking journal; while doing so, a -card was brought up. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Presently Mr. ---- came in, another of our Pacific fellow-sailors. It -pleases me to see them: they seem to bring me nearer to England. He gave -a dreadful account of his arrival in Baltimore, and of the state to -which the cholera had reduced that city. Mr. ---- amused me, by telling -me that he had heard my behaviour canvassed with much censure by some -man or other, who met me at Mr. ----'s, and who was horrified at my -taking up a book, and then a newspaper, and, in short, being neither -tragical nor comical, at a dinner-party. Of course, I must seem a very -strange animal to them all; but they seem just as strange to me. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Wednesday, 17th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, put out things for the theatre. At -eleven, went to rehearsal. It seems there has been fighting, and -rushing, and tearing of coats at the box-office; and one man has made -forty dollars by purchasing and reselling tickets at an increased price. -After rehearsal, came home. Mr. ---- called, and sat some time: he sails -for England on the twenty-fourth. England, oh England!--yet, after all, -what is there in that name? It is not my home; it is not those beloved -ones' whose fellowship is half the time what we call _home_. Is it -really and truly the yearning of the roots for the soil in which they -grew? Perhaps it is only the restless roving spirit, that still would be -where it is not. I know not. His description of American life and -manners (and he knows both, for he has lived constantly in this country, -and his particularities are, I believe, fairly divided between it and -his own,) is any thing but agreeable. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The dignified and graceful influence which married women, among us, -exercise over the tone of manners, uniting the duties of home to the -charms of social life, and bearing, at once, like the orange-tree, the -fair fruits of maturity with the blossoms of their spring, is utterly -unknown here. Married women are either house-drudges and nursery-maids, -or, if they appear in society, comparative ciphers; and the retiring, -modest, youthful bearing, which among us distinguishes girls of fifteen -or sixteen, is equally unknown. Society is entirely led by chits, who in -England would be sitting behind a pinafore; the consequence is, that it -has neither the elegance, refinement, nor the propriety which belongs to -ours; but is a noisy, rackety, vulgar congregation of flirting boys and -girls, alike without style or decorum.[43] When Mr. ---- was gone, -practised till dinner-time. After dinner, practised for half an hour; -marked journal, till time to go to the theatre; took coffee, and away. -The house was crammed again, and the play better acted than I have ever -seen it out of London, though Mrs. Candour had stuck upon her head a -bunch of feathers which threatened the gods; and Lady Sneerwell had -dragged all her hair off her face, which needed to be as pretty as it -was, to endure such an exposure. I do not wonder the New Yorkians did -not approve of my Lady Teazle. If, as ---- tells me, Mrs. ---- is their -idea of the perfection of good-breeding, well may my delineation of a -lady be condemned as "nothing particular." Yet I am sorry I must -continue to lie under their censure, for I, unfortunately for myself, -have seen ladies, "ripe and real," who, from all I can see, hear, and -understand, differ widely from the good manners of their "beau ideal." -The fact is, I am not "_genteel_" enough, and I am conscious of it. The -play went off remarkably well. Came to bed at half-past eleven. - - * * * * * - - -_Thursday, 18th._ - -Here is the end of October, the very mourning-time of the year with us, -and my room is full of flowers, and the sun is so bright and powerful, -that it is impossible to go out with a shawl, or without a parasol. Went -to rehearsal at twelve; at two, came in and habited; and at half-past -two, rode out with my father. We took the road to the Schuylkill at -once, through Arch Street, which is a fine, broad, long street, running -parallel with Chestnut Street. We walked along the road under the -intense sunlight that made all things look sleepy around. Turning -between some rising banks, through a defile where the road wound up a -hill, we caught a glimpse of a white house standing on the sunny slope -of a green rise. The undulating grounds around were all bathed in warm -light, relieved only by the massy shadows of the thick woods that -sheltered them. It was a bit of England. - - * * * * * - -Some good farming and tidy out-houses, and dependencies, completed the -resemblance, and made me think that this must be the dwelling of some of -my own country people. How can they live here? Here, even in the midst -of what is fair and peaceful in nature, I think my home would haunt me, -and the far-off chiming of the waves against her white shores resound in -my ears through the smooth flowing of the Schuylkill.[44] After pursuing -a level uninteresting road for some time, we turned off to the right, -and, standing on the brow of a considerable declivity, had a most -enchanting glimpse of the Schuylkill and its woody shores. The river -makes a bend just above the water-works, and the curving banks scooping -themselves form a lovely little sunny bay. It was more like a lake, just -here, than a flowing stream. The sky was so blessedly serene, and the -air so still, that the pure deep-looking water appeared to sleep, while -the bright hues of the heavens, and the glowing lints of the woody -shores, were mirrored with wondrous vividness on its bosom. I never saw -such gorgeousness, and withal such perfect harmony of colouring. The -golden sky, the mingled green, brown, yellow, crimson, and dark maroon, -that clothed the thickets; the masses of grey granite, with the vivid -mossy green that clung round them; the sunny purple waters; the warm red -colour of the road itself, as it wound down below, with a border of -fresh-looking turf on either side of it; the radiant atmosphere of rosy -light that hung over all; all combined to present a picture of perfect -enchantment. The eye was drunk with beauty.[45] How I though t of Mr. -----. Indeed a painter would have gone crazy over it, and I, who am not -a painter, was half crazy that I was not. Though if I had been, what -would it have availed? Such colours are from God's pallet, and mortal -hand may no more copy, than it could mingle them. We rode on through -scenery of the same description, passing in our way a farm and dairy, -where the cattle were standing, not in open pastureland, but in a corner -of forest-ground, all bright with the golden shedding of the trees; it -was very picturesque. A little runlet of water, too, that held the -middle of a tangled ravine, ran glittering like a golden snake through -the underwood, while the stems of the trees, and the light foliage on -the edge of the thick woody screens, were bathed in yellow sunshine. All -around was beautiful, and rich, and harmonious to the eye, and should -have been so to the spirit. - - * * * * * - -Returned home at about half-past five, dined at six; found another -beautiful nosegay waiting for me, from my unknown furnisher of sweets. -This is almost as tantalising as it is civil; and I would give half my -lovely flowers to find out who sends them to me. Distributed them all -over the room, and was as happy as a queen. Mr. ---- called. My father -was obliged to go out upon business, so D---- and I had to entertain -that worthy youth. He seems to have a wonderful veneration for a parcel -of scribblers, whose names were never heard of in England, beyond the -limits of their own narrow coteries. But he speaks like an enthusiast of -the woods and waters of his glorious country, and I excuse his taste in -poetry. Now isn't this strange, that a man who can feel the amazing -might, majesty, and loveliness of nature, can endure for a moment the -mawkish scribbling of these poetasters? Verily, we be anomalous beasts. - - * * * * * - - -AUTUMN. - - Thou comest not in sober guise, - In mellow cloak of russet clad-- - Thine are no melancholy skies, - Nor hueless flowers pale and sad; - But, like an emperor, triumphing, - With gorgeous robes of Tyrian dyes, - Full flush of fragrant blossoming, - And glowing purple canopies. - How call ye this the season's fall, - That seems the pageant of the year, - Richer and brighter far than all - The pomp that spring and summer wear? - Red falls the westering light of day - On rock and stream and winding shore; - Soft woody banks and granite grey - With amber clouds are curtain'd o'er; - The wide clear waters sleeping lie - Beneath the evening's wings of gold, - And on their glassy breast the sky - And banks their mingled hues unfold. - Far in the tangled woods, the ground - Is strewn with fallen leaves, that lie - Like crimson carpets all around - Beneath a crimson canopy. - The sloping sun with arrows bright - Pierces the forest's waving maze; - The universe seems wrapt in light,-- - A floating robe of rosy haze. - Oh, Autumn! thou art here a king; - And round thy throne the smiling Hours - A thousand fragrant tributes bring - Of golden fruits and blushing flowers. - - Oh, not upon thy fading fields and fells - In such rich garb doth Autumn come to thee, - My home!--but o'er thy mountains and thy dells - His footsteps fall slowly and solemnly. - Nor flower nor bud remaineth there to him, - Save the faint-breathing rose, that, round the year - Its crimson buds and pale soft blossoms dim - In lowly beauty constantly doth wear. - O'er yellow stubble lands, in mantle brown, - He wanders through the wan October light; - Still, as he goeth, slowly stripping down - The garlands green that were the Spring's delight. - At morn and eve thin silver vapours rise - Around his path; but sometimes at mid-day - He looks along the hills with gentle eyes, - That make the sallow woods and fields seem gay. - Yet something of sad sovereignty he hath-- - A sceptre crown'd with berries ruby red; - And the cold sobbing wind bestrews his path - With wither'd leaves that rustle 'neath his tread; - And round him still, in melancholy state, - Sweet solemn thoughts of death and of decay, - In slow and hush'd attendance, ever wait, - Telling how all things fair must pass away. - - -_Tuesday, 23d._ - -At ten o'clock, went to rehearsal. Rehearsed the Hunchback, and then -Fazio: this is tolerably hard work, with acting every night: we don't -steal our money, that's one comfort. Came home, found a letter for me in -a strange hand. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Went on with my letter to ----: while doing so, was interrupted by the -entrance of a strange woman, who sat herself down, apparently in much -confusion. She told me a story of great distress, and claimed my -assistance as a fellow-countrywoman. I had not a farthing of money: -D---- and my father were out; so I took the reference she gave me, and -promised to enquire into her condition. The greatest evil arising from -the many claims of this sort which are made upon us, wherever we go, is -the feeling of distrust and suspicion which they engender, and the sort -of excuse which they teach us to apply plausibly to our unwillingness to -answer such demands. "Oh, ten to one, an impostor," is soon said, and -instances enough may unfortunately be found to prove the probability of -such a conclusion. Yet in this sweeping condemnation one real case of -misery may be included, and that possibility should make us pause, for -'tis one that, if afterwards detected, may be the source of heavy -condemnation, and bitter regret to ourselves.[46] - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The fact is, that, to give well, one should give equally one's trouble -with one's money: the one in all cases, the other where one's enquiries -are satisfactorily answered.--Received a purple-bound gilt-edged -periodical, published at Boston, from Mr. ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The literary part of the book seems much on a par with that of similar -works in England, but there was a wide difference in the excellence of -the engravings. There was one from that pretty picture, the -Bride's-Maid; a coarse bad engraving, but yet how much of the sadness of -the original it recalled to me! It is a painful thing to look at: it -brings before one too much of the sorrow of life, of the anguish that -has been endured, that is daily, hourly, endured, in this prison-house -of torments. After dinner, went on writing to ----, till time to go to -the theatre. The house was not as full as I had expected, though a good -one enough. My father looked wonderfully well and young: there is -certainly some difference in acting with him; but this part fatigues me -horribly. - - -_Wednesday, 24th._ - -Went to rehearsal at eleven; at half-past one, went with D---- to find -out something about my yesterday's poor woman. The worst of it is, that -my trouble involves necessarily the trouble of somebody else, as I -cannot go trotting and exploring about by myself. The references were -sufficiently satisfactory, that is, they proved that she was poor, and -in distress, and willing to work. I gave her what I could, and the man -by whom she is employed seems anxious to afford her work: so I hope she -will get on a little. The "God bless you," of gratitude, even if uttered -by guileful and unworthy lips, is surely yet a blessing if it alights on -those who are seeking to do good. And if I were assured that that woman -was the veriest impostor under the sun, I still should hope her prayer -might descend with profit on my head; for I was sincere in my desire to -do well by her. Came home, wrote a letter to ----, finished one to ----; -and went to the theatre. It seems there have been - - - "Bloody noses and crack'd crowns, - And all the currents of a heady fight," - - -at the box-office, and truly the house bore witness thereto; for it was -crammed from floor to ceiling. The play was the Hunchback. I played very -well, in spite of no green carpet, and no letter in the letter scene, -which lost one of my favourite points; one, by the by, that I am fond -of, because it is all my own. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Thursday, 25th._ - -After breakfast, went to rehearsal. Came home, put out things for the -theatre, made myself a belt; received a whole bundle of smart annuals -from Mr. ----; spent some time in looking over their engravings. My gown -looked very handsome, but my belt was too small; had to make another. -The house was good, but not great. I played only so-so: the fact is, it -is utterly impossible to play to this audience at all. They are so -immovable, such very stocks and stones, that one is fairly exhausted -with labouring to excite them, before half one's work is done. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -AUTUMN SONG. - - The merriest time of all the year - Is the time when the leaves begin to fall, - When the chestnut-trees turn yellow and sear, - And the flowers are withering one and all; - - When the thick green sward is growing brown, - And the honeysuckle berries are red, - And the oak is shaking its acorns down, - And the dry twigs snap' neath the woodman's tread. - - The merriest dance that e'er was seen - Is the headlong dance of the whirling leaves, - And the rattling stubble that flies between - The yellow ranks of the barley sheaves. - - The merriest song that e'er was heard - Is the song of the sobbing autumn wind; - When the thin bare boughs of the elm are stirr'd, - And shake the black ivy round them twined. - - The merriest time of all the year - Is the time when all things fade and fall, - When the sky is bleak, and the earth is drear, - Oh, that's the merriest month of all. - - -_Friday, 26th._ - -While I was dressing, D----, like a good angel, came in with three -letters from England in her hand. - - * * * * * - -The love of excellent friends is one of God's greatest blessings, and -deserves our utmost thankfulness. The counsel of sound heads and the -affection of Christian spirits is a staff of support, and a spring of -rejoicing through life. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -A Mr., Mrs., and young Mr. ----, called upon us: they are the only -inhabitants of this good city who have done us that honour. - - * * * * * - -As soon as my father came in, we sallied forth to see the giantess of a -ship the Americans have been building, to thresh us withal. I hooked -myself up to ----, and away we strode; D---- and my father struggling -after us, as best they might. The day was most beautiful; bright, sunny, -and fresh. After walking at an immense pace for some time, we bethought -us of looking for our _poursuivants_; but neither sign nor vestige -appeared of them. We stood still and waited, and went on, and stood -still again. ---- looked foolish at me, and I foolish at him: at length -we wisely agreed that they had probably made the best of their way to -the Navy-yard, and thither we proceeded. We found them, according to our -expectations, waiting for us, and proceeded to enter the building where -this lady of the seas was propped upon a hundred stays, surrounded with -scaffolding, with galleries running round from the floor to the ceiling. -We went on deck; in fact, the Pennsylvania has been boarded by the -English in our person, before she sets foot on the sea. How I should -like to see that ship launched; how she will sweep down from her -holdings, and settle to the water, as a swan before swimming out! How -the shores will resound with living voices, applauding her like a living -creature; how much of national pride, of anticipated triumph, will be -roused in every heart, as her huge wings first unfold their shadow over -the sea, and she moves abroad, the glory and the wonder of the deep! -How, if this ship should ever lie in an English harbour! If I were an -American on board of her, I would sooner blow her up, with all the -"precious freighting souls" within her, than see such a consummation. -When my wonderment had a little subsided, it occurred to me that she -would not, perhaps, be so available a battle-ship as one of a smaller -size: it must be impossible to manoeuvre her with any promptitude. - - * * * * * - -My father and ---- indulged in sundry right English bits of bragging, as -they stood at her stern, looking down the enormous deck. I wish I knew -her exact measurements: she is the largest ship ever built, larger than -any East Indiaman; the largest ship in the world. How the sea will groan -under her; nathless in a storm I would rather be in the veriest nutshell -that ever was flung from wave-top to wave-top. How she would sink! she -would go down like another Atlantis, poor ship! I have an amazing horror -of drowning. Came home just in time to dine. After dinner, wrote -letters; at six, went to the theatre; play, Hunchback; played so-so: the -audience are detestable. The majority are so silent that they not only -do not applaud the acting, but most religiously forbear to notice all -noises in the house, in consequence of which some impudent women amused -themselves with talking during the whole play, much "louder than the -players." At one time their impertinent racket so bewildered me, that I -was all but out, and this without the audience once interfering to -silence them; perhaps, however, that would have been an unwarrantable -interference with the sacred liberties of the people. I indulged them -with a very significant glance; and at one moment was most strongly -tempted to request them to hold their tongues. - - -_Saturday, 27th._ - -The poor sick lady, whose pretty children I met running about the -stairs, sent to say she should be very glad if I would go in and see -her: I had had sundry inward promptings to this effect before, but was -withheld by the real English dread of intruding. At eleven, went to -rehearsal: on my return, called on Mrs. ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -She interested me most extremely: I would have stayed long with her, -but feared she might exhaust herself by the exertion of conversing. On -my return to my own room, I sent her Mr. ----'s annuals, and the volume -of Mrs. Hemans's poetry he lent me. Began practising, when in walked -that interesting youth, Mr. ----, with a nosegay, as big as himself, in -his hand. Flowers,--sweet blooming, fresh, delicious flowers,--in the -last days of October; the very sackcloth season of the year. How they do -rejoice my spirit. He sat some time, making most excessively fine -speeches to me: while he was here, arrived another bouquet from my -unknown friend; how nice, to be sure! all but not knowing who they come -from. When my visiter was gone, wrote to ---- till dinner-time. After -dinner, spent nearly the whole afternoon in dressing my pretty flowers. -Sent some of them in to Mrs. ----. I don't know why, but it seemed a sad -present to make to her; for I almost fear she will never see the -blossoms of another year. Yet why do I say that?--is not heaven brighter -than even this flowery earth? - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Finished my letter to ----; went to the theatre. My benefit: the -Provoked Husband. The house was very good. I played so-so, and looked -very nice. What fine breeding this play is, to be sure: it is quite -refreshing to act it; but it must be heathen Greek to the American -_exclusives_, I should think. - - -_Sunday, 28th._ - -Had only time to swallow a mouthful of breakfast, and off to church. I -must say it requires a deal of fortitude to go into an American church: -there are no pew-openers, and the people appear to rush indifferently -into any seats that are vacant. We went into a pew where there were two -women and a man, who did not take up one half of it; but who, -nevertheless, looked most ungracious at our coming into it. They did not -move to make way or accommodate us, but remained, with very discourteous -unchristian-like sulkiness, spread over twice as much space as they -required. The spirit of independence seems to preside paramount, even in -the house of God. This congregation, by frequenting an Episcopalian -temple, evidently professed the form of faith of the English church; yet -they neither uttered the responses, nor observed any one of the -directions in the Common Prayer-book. Thus, during portions of the -worship where kneeling is enjoined, they sat or stood; and while the -Creed was being read, half the auditors were reclining comfortably in -their pews: the same thing with the Psalms, and all parts of the -service. I suppose their love of freedom will not suffer them to be -amenable to forms, or wear the exterior of humbleness and homage, even -in the house of the Most High God.[47] The whole appearance of the -congregation was that of indifference, indolence, and irreverence, and -was highly displeasing to my eye. After church, came home, and began -writing to ----. ---- called. He sat some time mending pens for me; and -at half-past one D----, he, and I packed ourselves into a coach, and -proceeded on to Fair Mount, where we got out, and left the coach to wait -for us. The day was bright and bitter cold: the keen spirit-like wind -came careering over the crisping waters of the broad river, and carried -across the cloudless blue sky the golden showers from the shivering -woods. They had not lost their beauty yet; though some of their crimson -robes were turned to palest yellow, and through the thin foliage the -dark boughs and rugged barks showed distinctly, yet the sun shone -joyfully on them, and they looked beautiful still; and so did the water, -curled into a thousand mimic billows, that came breaking their crystal -heads along the curving shore, which, with its shady indentings and -bright granite promontories, seemed to lock the river in, and gave it -the appearance of a lovely lake. We took the tow-path, by D----'s -desire; but found (alas, that it is ever so!) that it was distance lent -enchantment to the view. For, though it was very pretty, it had lost -some of the beauty it seemed to wear, when we looked down upon it from -the woody heights that skirt the road. - -On we went, ---- and I moderating our strides to keep pace with D----; -and she, puffing, panting, and struggling on to keep pace with us; yet I -was perished, and she was half melted: like all compromises, it was but -a botched business. The wind was deliciously fresh; and I think, as we -buffeted along in its very face, we should have made an admirable -subject for Bunbury. I, with my bonnet off, my combs out, and all my -hair flying about, hooked up to ----, who, willow-like, bent over me, to -facilitate my reaching his arm. D---- following in the rear, her cap and -hair half over her face, her shawl and clothes fluttering in the blast, -her cheeks the colour of crimson, which, relieved by her green bonnet, -whose sides she grappled tightly down to balk the wind, had much the -effect of a fine carnation bursting its verdant sheath. I never saw any -thing half so absurd in my life, as we all looked. Yet it was very -pleasant and wholesome, good for soul and body. After walking for some -time, I asked D---- the hour. It was three, and we were to dine at four, -in order to accommodate the servants, who, in this land of liberty, make -complete slaves of their masters. Horror took possession of us,--how -were we ever to get back in time? To turn back was hopeless: the endless -curvings of the shore, however much we had admired their graceful -sinuosities before, would now have appeared abominable to our -straight-forward designs of home, so we agreed to climb the hill and -take the upper road--and what a hill it was!--the sun poured his intense -rays down upon it; and, what with the heat and the wind, and the steep -path-way, I thought poor D---- would have died. We turned once as we -reached the summit, and I never saw any thing more lovely than the scene -we were leaving behind us. The beautiful blue water winding far away -between its woody shores; close below the hill, a small reed-crowned -island lying like a gem on the bright river, and a little beyond, the -unfinished arches of a white bridge: the opposite shores were bathed -with the evening light, and far away the varied colours of the autumnal -woods were tinged with the golden glory of sunset. But we were pursued -by the thought of four o'clock, and paused but a moment. On we -struggled, and at last my frozen blood began to warm; and by the time we -reached the carriage, I was in a fine glow. Certainly exercise is, in -itself, very delightful, but in scenes like these it is doubly so: the -spirit is roused to activity by the natural beauties around, and the -fancy and feelings seem to acquire vigour from the quick circulation of -the blood, and the muscular energy of the limbs; it is highly -excellent.[48] We jumped into the coach, adjured the man by all the -saints in the calendar to put wings to his chariot wheels, and sat -concocting plausible lies, by way of excuses, all the way home. At last -we hit upon an admirable invention. The cause of our being so late was -to be, that we stopped to render our assistance in reviving an -unfortunate young woman (a lovely creature, of course), who had thrown -herself into the Schuylkill, in consequence of some love disappointment, -and who was withdrawn just in time to be preserved. ---- was to tell -this story with the gravest face he could summon for the occasion, while -we went up to dress, and when we came down we were to corroborate his -statement as correctly as good chance might enable us. We dressed in -half a minute, and found Mr. ---- sitting with my father, and ---- -looking amazingly demure. It seemed, however, that no remark had been -made, nor question asked, about our protracted perambulations, so that -we had actually thrown away all our ingenuity. This vexed me so much, -that in the middle of dinner I introduced the topic of drowning, and, -with a lamentable face, related the circumstance; but, alas! one of my -auditors was occupied with a _matelotte d'anguilles_, another with an -oyster _vol-au-vent_, and all the pretty girls in creation might have -been drowned, without the loss in any degree affecting the evident -satisfaction which the above subjects of meditation seemed to afford the -gentlemen: what selfish brutes men are! shocking. Our invention was thus -twice thrown away: one said "Humph!" and the other "Ha!" and that was -the extent of their sympathy. After dinner, came up to my own room, lay -down, and fairly slept till coffee was announced. Came down with half an -eye open, and found the circle augmented by the delectable presence of -Mr. ----. What an original that youth is! They talked politics, abused -republicanism, lauded aristocracy, drank tea, took snuff, ate cakes, and -pottered a deal. My father was going fast asleep, ---- was making a -thousand signs to me to go to the piano, when Mr. ---- rose to depart: -the other gentlemen took the hint, and left us at half-past ten. - - -_Tuesday, 30th._ - -At eleven o'clock, went to rehearsal: came home, began letter to ----. -Called with my father upon Mrs. ----: the servant committed that -awfullest of blunders, letting one into the house, and then finding out -that nobody was at home.[49] Came home, practised for some time: all of -a sudden the door opened, and in walked Colonel ---- with my father. He -had just arrived from New York. He dined with us. After dinner, finished -letter to ----. At six, went to the theatre. The house was very good; -play, Much Ado about Nothing. I played well; but what an audience it is! -I have been often recommended, in cases of nervousness on the stage, to -consider the audience as just so many cabbages, and, indeed, a small -stretch of fancy would enable me to do so here. Colonel ---- supped with -us. Found an invitation to dinner from the ----. "One exception makes a -rule," say the scholars; by that same token, therefore, the -Philadelphians are about the most inhospitable set of people it ever was -my good fortune to fall in with.[50] - -Towards the end of supper, we fell into a strange discussion as to the -nature of existence. A vain and fruitless talk, after all; for life -shall be happy or sad, not, indeed, according to its events, but -according to the nature of the individuals to whom these events befall. -Colonel ---- maintained that life was in itself desirable; abounding in -blessings, replete with comforts, a fertile land, where still, as one -joy decays, another springs up to flourish in its place. He said that he -felt thankful every day, and every hour of the day, for his existence; -that he feared death, only because life was an absolute enjoyment, and -that he would willingly, to-morrow, accept the power of beginning his -again, even though he should be placed on the world's threshold, a -lonely friendless beggar: so sure was he that his prospects would -brighten, and friends spring up to him, and plenty reward labour, and -life become pleasant, ere it had grown many years old. How widely human -beings differ! It was but an hour before, that I, in counting how many -stars I had already seen go down below the horizon of existence,--Weber, -Lawrence, Scott, all of whom I have known,--was saying to D----, "How -sad a thing, and strange, life is!" adding, what I repent me for, "I -wish that I were dead!" Oh, how can any human being, who looks abroad -into the world, and within upon himself, who sees the wondrous mystery -of all things, the unabidingness which waits on all matter, the -imperfection which clogs all spirit; who notes the sovereignty of change -over the inanimate creation, of disease, decay, and death over man's -body, of blindness and delusion over his mind, of sin over his soul; who -beholds the frailty of good men; who feels the miserable inconsistency -of his own nature; the dust and ashes of which our love, and what we -love, is made; the evil that, like an unwholesome corpse, still clings -to our good; the sorrow that, like its shadow, still walks behind our -joy;--oh, who that sees all this can say that this life is other than -sad--most sad? Yet, while I write this, God forbid that I should -therefore want eyes to see, or sense to feel, the blessings wherewith he -has blessed it; the rewards with which he sweetens our task, the flowers -wherewith he cheers our journey's road, the many props wherewith he -supports our feet in it. Yet of all these, the sweetest, the brightest, -the strongest, are those which our soul draws from him, the end of its -desire, not those it finds here. And how should not that spirit yearn -for its accomplishment? If we seek knowledge here, a thousand mists -arise between our incapable senses and the truth, how, then, should we -not wish to cast away this darkness, and soar to the fountains of all -light? If we strive to employ those faculties which, being of our soul, -have the strength and enduring of immortality, the objects whereon we -expend them here are vague, evanescent, disappointing; how then should -we not desire to find food for our capacities, abiding as themselves? If -we long to love--ah, are not the creatures in whom we centre our -affections frail, capable of change; perishable, born to decay? How then -should we not look with unutterable yearning for that life where -affection is unchangeable, eternal? Surely, if all the hopes, the fears, -the aims, the tendings of our soul, have but their beginning here, it is -most natural, it is most fitting, to turn to that future where they -shall be fulfilled. But there lies a road between. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -A break--a break--a break! So much the better; for the two last days -have been nothing but annoyance, hard work, and heartach. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Friday, November 2d._ - -A bright sunny day; too hot for a fire; windows open, shutters closed, -and the room full of flowers. How the sweet summer-time stays lingering -here. Found Colonel ---- in the drawing-room. After breakfast, began -writing to ----. Mr. ---- called: he stayed but a short time, and went -out with Colonel ----. My father went out soon after, and I began to -practise. Mrs. ---- came in and sat with me: she played to me, and sang -"Should those fond hopes ever leave thee." Her voice was as thin as her -pale transparent hands. She appeared to me much better than when last I -saw her; but presently told me she had just been swallowing eighty drops -of laudanum, poor thing! When she was gone, went on practising, and -writing, till my father came home. Walked with him and D---- to call on -old Lady ----. The day was so hot that I could scarcely endure my boa. -The election was going on; the streets full of rabblement, the air full -of huzzaing, and the sky obscured with star-spangled banners, and -villanous transparencies of "Old Hickory,"[51] hung out in all -directions. We went round the Town-House, and looked at the window out -of which Jefferson read the Act of Independence, that proclaimed the -separation between England and America.[52] Called at a music-shop, -tossed over heaps of music, bought some, and ordered some to be sent -home for me to look over. Came home, put out things for the theatre. -Dined at three. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Received another beautiful nosegay. After dinner, went on with letter to -----; tried over my music; Heber's song that I wanted is not among them. -At six, went to the theatre. The sunset was glorious, the uprising of -the moon most beautiful. There is an intensity, an earnestness, about -the colour of the sky, and the light of its bright inhabitants here, -that is lovely and solemn, beyond any thing I ever saw. Can Italy have -brighter heavens than these? surely nothing can exceed the beauty of -these days and nights. We were obliged to go all manner of roundabouts -to the play-house, in order to avoid the rabble that choked up the -principal streets. I, by way of striking salutary awe into the hearts of -all rioters who might come across our path, brandished my father's sword -out of the coach window the whole way along. The play was Venice -Preserved; my father played Jaffier. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I played pretty well. The house was very good; but at the end I really -was half dead. - - * * * * * - -On our return home, met a procession of electioneerers carrying -triangular paper lanterns upon poles, with "sentiments" political -scribbled thereon, which, however, I could not distinguish. Found a most -exquisite nosegay waiting for me at home, so sweet, so brilliant, so -fragrant and fresh. - - * * * * * - -Found nothing for supper that I could fancy. Drank some tea, wrote -journal. Colonel ---- came in after supper, and wondered that I had -played better to my father's Jaffier than to Mr. Keppel's. Heaven bless -the world, for a _conglomerated amalgamation_ of fools! - - -_Monday, 5th._ - -Guy Fawkes' day, and no squibs, no firing of pistols, no bonfires, nor -parading about of ferocious-looking straw men. Ah! these poor people -never had a king and two houses of parliament, and don't know what a -mercy it is they weren't blown up before they passed the reform bill. -Now if such an accident should occur to them, they'd all be sure to be -blown straight into heaven, and hang there. Rose at half-past five. Oh, -I quite agree with the Scotch song, - - - "Up in the morning's na for me, - Up in the morning early; - I'd rather watch a winter's night, - Than rise in the morning early." - - -Dressed myself by candlelight. Mrs. ---- sent in to ask me if I would -see her, but I had not time. Sent her a note, and received, in exchange, -the seed of what I suspect is the wood laurel, common in this country, -but unknown in ours. Started from the Mansion House (which is a very -nice inn, kept by the civilest of people,) at six, and reached the quay -just in time to meet the first rosy breaking of the clouds over the -Delaware. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I am sorry to leave Philadelphia. I like the town, and the little I have -seen of its inhabitants, very much; I mean in private, for they are -intolerable audiences. There is an air of stability, of well-to-do, and -occasionally of age, in the town, that reminds me of England. Then, as -far as my yesterday's dinner will allow me to judge, I should say, that -not only the style of living but the society was superior to that which -I saw in New York. Certainly, both the entertainment itself, and the -guests, were irreproachable; the first was in very good taste, the -latter appeared to me well-informed, and very agreeable. The morning, in -spite of all ----'s persuasive prophecies, was beautiful beyond -description. The river like the smoothest glass. The sky was bright and -cloudless, and along the shores, the distinctness with which each -smallest variation of form, or shade of colour, was reflected in the -clear mirror of the Delaware was singularly beautiful and fairy-like. -The tints of the woods were what no words can convey the slightest idea -of. Now, a whole tract of withered oaks, of a red brick hue, like a -forest scorched with fire; now, a fresh thicket of cedars of the -brightest green; then, wide screens of mingled trees, where the foliage -was one gorgeous mixture of vermilion, dark maroon, tender green, golden -yellow, and deep geranium. The whole land at a distance appearing to lie -under an atmosphere of glowing colour, richer than any crimson mantle -that ever clothed the emperors of the olden world; all this illuminated -by a sun, which we should have thought too hot for June. It was very -beautiful. I did not, however, see much of it, for I was overcome with -fatigue, and slept both in the steam-boat and in the stage-coach. When -we embarked on the Raritan, I had intended lying down in the cabin, and -taking my sleep fairly out, but the jolting of those bitter roads had -made every one of the women sick, and the cabin was horrible beyond -expression. Came up on deck, and worked till within a quarter of a mile -of New York, when I went on the upper deck, and walked about with -Colonel ----. I asked Captain Seymour how often the engine would strike -in a minute; he told me, thirty-six times. By the by, we had a race, -coming down the Raritan, with the Union steam-boat. The Water Witch beat -her hollow; but she came so near as to make our water rough, and so -impede our progress, that I thought we should have had a concussion; -there is something very exciting in emulation, certainly. The sun went -down in a watery gloomy sky, though the day had been so fine; and when -we got sight of the Narrows, sky, and sea, and land, were all of a dark -leaden hue. Our second landing at New York was rather melancholy: shall -I ever forget the first? Came up to our comfortless quarters at the -American; dressed, and dined, and began finishing my letter to dear -----, when they brought me in another from her, by the packet that has -just come in. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Tuesday, 6th._ - -It poured with rain. Lucky we did not follow ----'s advice, else we -should have been miserably progressing through rain and wretchedness, or -perhaps sticking fast in the mud. Went and took a warm bath; came home, -breakfasted; after breakfast, practised for an hour; finished letter to -----; wrote to my mother; dined at five. After dinner, Colonel ----- called, and very nearly caused a blow-up between me and my father: -he came preaching to me the necessity of restoring those lines of -Bianca's, in the judgment-scene, which were originally omitted, -afterwards restored by me at Milman's request, and again cut out, on -finding that they only lengthened the scene, without producing the -slightest effect. My father appeared perfectly to agree with me, but -added, that I might as well oblige the people. I straightforth said I -would do no such thing. People sitting before the curtain must not come -and tell me what I am to do behind it. Not one out of a hundred, in the -first place, understand what they are talking about; and why, therefore, -am I to alter my work at their suggestion, when each particular scene -has cost me more consideration than they ever bestowed upon any whole -play in all their lives. Besides, it would be with me and my parts as -with the old man, his son, and his ass, in the fable of old; I should -never have done altering, and yet never satisfy any body; for the most -universal talent I know of is that of finding fault. So, all things -well considered, the New Yorkians must e'en be contented with the -judgment of Miss O'Neill, my father, and their obedient humble servant. -Worked till tea-time; after tea, wrote letters till now, bed-time. - - -_Wednesday, 7th._ - -Our breakfast was so bad, none of us could eat any thing. After -breakfast, despatched letters to Mr. ----, for England. Practised for an -hour,--sketched for an hour. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At half-past one, went out with my father to walk on the Battery, while -Colonel ---- and D---- went to ----, to see if we could get decent -lodgings, and wholesome eatables there. The day was melancholy, grey, -cold; with a full fresh wind, whirling the rattling leaves along, and -rippling the leaden waters of the wide estuary that opens before this -beautiful parade. The Jersey shore and Staten Island, with their -withered woods all clothed in their dark warm autumnal hues, at a -distance reminded me of the heathery hills of Scotland; they had that -dark purple richness of colouring. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -D---- and Colonel ---- joined us, and we walked up Broadway together: my -father left me to go with them, and look at our proposed dwelling. It is -all in vain struggling with one's fate; 'tis clear they haven't the most -distant idea of the comforts of life in these parts. Darkness, -dinginess, and narrowness, were the attributes of the apartments into -which we were shown; then, as the Colonel had never eaten in the house, -he did not know what our food might be--pleasant this! _Resolved_, that -we were better off where we are, and so returned to the American. -Sketched and practised for some time longer. Mr. ---- called to go with -my father to Mrs. ----'s, where they were to dine. He certainly is one -of the handsomest men I ever saw; but he looks half dead, and is working -himself to death, it should seem. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -He told me that Boston was the most charming town in America. - - * * * * * - -Put away things, while D---- unpacked them. Dressed for dinner. Dined -at five; afterwards proceeded in the unpacking and stowing away. - - * * * * * - -I was interrupted by the announcement of an incomprehensible cognomen, -which solved itself in the shape of Mr. ----, who walked in, sat down, -and began talking a deal of nonsense. I worked, that I might not go to -sleep. He was most exceedingly odd and dauldrummish, I think he was a -little "how com'd you so indeed." He sat very near me, spoke exceedingly -drowsily, and talked an amazing quantity of thickish philosophy, and -moral and sentimental potter. I bore it as well as I could, till ten -o'clock, when I asked him how long it was "reckoned" discreet, in this -country, to prolong evening visits; whereupon he arose and took his -departure. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Worked at the ornaments of my Bianca dress, finished one, and wrote -journal. - - -_Thursday, 8th._ - - * * * * * - -After breakfast, worked at my dress till late; Mr. ---- called. Put away -goods and chattels; put out things for the theatre. A brother of Mr. ----- called upon us, and sat some time: when he was gone, came back to -my room to finish the ornaments for my dress. This day has been spent in -the thorough surroundings of my vocation; foil stone, glass beads, and -brass tape! ---- came just before dinner; and at the end of it, Colonel ----- called. He read us a paragraph in one of the Philadelphia papers, -upon me, and all my good parts; there was actually a column of them. It -was well written, for I was absolute perfection; excepting, indeed, in -one respect, the hauteur and disdain with which I had treated the -"_rank_ and fashion of Philadelphia." Now this was not true, for, to -speak candidly, I did not know that there were such things as rank and -fashion in all America. However, the article made me laugh extremely, -for, as I could not help observing, "there are real lords and ladies in -my country."[53] - - * * * * * - -Came to my own room,--refurbished my green velvet bonnet. 'Tis a worthy -old thing that, and looks amazingly well. The cold weather is setting in -very bitterly to-day; we were obliged to have a fire. Heard my father -his part: whilst saying it, he received a subpoena on some business -between Mr. ---- and Mr. ----. At a quarter to six, went to the theatre. -Play, Fazio; house very fine; dress like a bonfire. I played well, but -then my father was the Fazio. The people cried abundantly. Mrs. ---- was -shocked at having to play that naughty woman Aldabella (I wish they -would let me try that part); and when the Duke dismissed her in the -last scene, picked up her train, and flounced off in a way that made the -audience for to laugh. Coming home, Mr. ---- overtook us. My father -asked him in, but he excused himself; before, however, we were well -seated, he had repented the refusal, and came rushing back. Colonel ---- -came in, and they both of them supped with us, discussing many matters -of pith. Received a nosegay, as big as myself, of dahlias and other -autumnal flowers. - - * * * * * - -The moon is resplendent! the earth is flooded with her cold -light--beautiful! By the by, _last night_, at three o'clock this -morning, I was awakened by music. It was a military band playing Yankee -Doodle, the national anthem of the Americans, accompanied by the tramp -of a considerable body of men. They took the direction of the Park, and -there halted, when I heard a single voice haranguing for a length of -time, with occasional interruptions of vehement huzzas, and rolling of -drums. And anon, the march struck up again, grew faint, and died into -the stillness of night. - - * * * * * - -I was much bounden to the Jacksonites, who are carrying it by fair means -or foul. One man, I was assured, voted nine times over! He was an -Irishman, and, it is to be presumed, a tailor. - - -_Saturday, 10th._ - -Skipped yesterday: so much the better, for though it began, like May, -with flowers and sunshine, it ended, like December, with the sulks, and -a fit of crying. The former were furnished me by my friends and Heaven, -the latter, by myself and the devil. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At six o'clock, D---- roused me; and grumpily enough I arose. I dressed -myself by candlelight in a hurry. Really, by way of a party of pleasure, -'tis too abominable to get up in the middle of the night this fashion. -At half-past six, Colonel ---- came; and as soon as I could persuade -myself into my clothes, we set off to walk to the quay. Just as we were -nearing the bottom of Barclay Street, the bell rang from the steam-boat, -to summon all loiterers on board; and forthwith we rushed, because in -this country steam and paddles, like wind and tide in others, wait for -no man. We got on board in plenty time, but D---- was nearly killed with -the pace at which we had walked, in order to do so. One of the first -persons we saw was Mr. ----, who was going up to his father's place -beyond West Point, by name Hyde Park, which sounds mighty magnificent. I -did not remain long on the second deck, but ascended to the first with -Colonel ----, and paced to and fro with infinite zeal till -breakfast-time. The morning was grey and sad-looking, and I feared we -should not have a fine day: however, towards eight o'clock, the grey -clouds parted, and the blue serene eyes of heaven looked down upon the -waters; the waves began to sparkle, though the sun had not yet appeared; -the sky was lighter, and faint shadows began to appear beside the -various objects that surrounded us, all which symptoms raised our hopes -of the weather. At eight o'clock, we went down to breakfast. Nobody, who -has not seen it, can conceive the strange aspect of the long room of one -of these fine boats at meal-time. The crowd, the hurry, the confusion of -tongues, like the sound of many waters, the enormous consumption of -eatables, the mingled demands for more, the cloud of black waiters -hovering down the sides of the immense tables, the hungry eager faces -seated at them, form altogether a most amusing subject of contemplation, -and a caricaturist would find ample matter for his vein in almost every -other devouring countenance. As far as regards the speed, safety, and -convenience with which these vessels enable one to perform what would be -in any other conveyance most fatiguing journeys, they are admirable -inventions. The way in which they are conducted, too, deserves the -highest commendation. Nothing can exceed the comfort with which they are -fitted up, the skill with which they are managed, and the order and -alacrity with which passengers are taken up from, or landed at, the -various points along the river. The steamer goes at the rate of fifteen -miles an hour; and in less than two minutes, when approaching any place -of landing, the engine stops, the boat is lowered--the captain always -convoys his passengers himself from the steamer to the shore--away darts -the tiny skiff, held by a rope to the main boat; as soon as it grazes -the land, its freight, animate and inanimate, is bundled out, the boat -hauls itself back in an instant, and immediately the machine is in -motion, and the vessel again bounding over the water like a -race-horse.[54] Doubtless all this has many and great advantages; but to -an English person, the mere circumstance of being the whole day in a -crowd is a nuisance. As to privacy at any time, or under any -circumstances, 'tis a thing that enters not into the imagination of an -American. They do not seem to comprehend that to be from sunrise to -sunset one of a hundred and fifty people confined in a steam-boat is in -itself a great misery, or that to be left by one's self and to one's -self can ever be desirable. They live all the days of their lives in a -throng, eat at ordinaries of two or three hundred, sleep five or six in -a room, take pleasure in droves, and travel by swarms.[55] - - * * * * * - -In spite, therefore, of all its advantages, this mode of journeying has -its drawbacks, and the greatest of all, to me, is the being -_companioned_ by so many strangers, who crowd about you, pursue their -conversation in your very ears, or, if they like it better, listen to -yours, stare you out of all countenance, and squeeze you out of all -comfort. It is perfectly intolerable to me; but then I have more than -even the national English abhorrence of coming in contact with -strangers. There is no moment of my life when I would not rather be -alone than in company; and feeling, as I often do, the society of even -those I love a burden, the being eternally surrounded by indifferent -persons is a positive suffering that interferes with every enjoyment, -and makes pleasure three parts endurance. I think this constant living -in public is one reason why the young women here are much less retiring -and shy than English girls. Instead of the domestic privacy in which -women among us are accustomed to live, and move, and have their being, -here they are incessantly, as Mr. ---- says, "_en évidence_." Accustomed -to the society of strangers, mixing familiarly with persons of whom they -know nothing earthly, subject to the gaze of a crowd from morning till -night, pushing, and pressing, and struggling in self-defence, -conversing, and being conversed with, by the chance companions of a -boarding-house, a steam-boat, or the hotel of a fashionable -watering-place, they must necessarily lose every thing like reserve or -bashfulness of deportment, and become free and familiar in their -manners, and noisy and unrefined in their tone and style of -conversation.[56] An English girl of sixteen, put on board one of these -Noah's arks (for verily there be clean and unclean beasts in them), -would feel and look like a scared thing. To return to our progress. -After losing sight of New York, the river becomes narrower in its bed, -and the banks on either side assume a higher and more rocky appearance. -A fine range of basaltic rock, called the Palisadoes, rising to a height -of some hundred feet (I guess), immediately from the water on the left, -forms a natural rampart, overhanging the river for several miles. The -colour of the basalt was greenish grey, and contrasted finely with the -opposite shore, whose softer undulations were yet clothed with verdure, -and adorned with patches of woodland, robed in the glorious colours of -an American autumn. While despatching breakfast, the reflection of the -sun's rays on the water flickered to and fro upon the cabin ceiling; and -through the loop-hole windows we saw the bright foam round the paddles -sparkling like frothed gold in the morning light. On our return to the -deck, the face of the world had become resplendent with the glorious -sunshine that now poured from the east; and rock and river, earth and -sky, shone in intense and dazzling brilliancy. The broad Hudson curled -into a thousand crisp billows under the fresh north-wester that blew -over it. The vaporous exhalations of night had melted from the horizon, -and the bold rocky range of one shore, and exquisite rolling outline of -the other, stood out in fair relief against the deep serene of the blue -heavens. - - * * * * * - -I remained on deck without my bonnet, walking to and fro, and enjoying -the delicious wind that was as bracing as a shower-bath. Mr. ---- most -civilly offered me, when I returned to New York, the use of a horse, and -himself as escort to a beautiful ride beyond Hoboken, which proffer was -very gratefully received by me. Colonel ---- introduced me to an old man -of the name of ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -a jester, and a long story-teller;--a man whom it would be awful to meet -when you were too late for dinner, still more awful on your progress to -a rendezvous;--a man to whom a listener is a Godsend, and a button an -anchor of discoursing for half a day. He made me laugh once or twice -heartily. As we passed the various points of the river, to which any -interest, legendary or historical, attached, each of my three companions -drew my attention to it; and I had, pretty generally, three variations -of the same anecdote at each point of observation. On we boiled past -Spitendevil creek,[57] where the waters of the broad Hudson join those -of the East River, and circle with their silver arms the island of -Manhattan. Past the last stupendous reach of the Palisadoes, which, -stretching out into an endless promontory, seems to grow with the -mariner's onward progress, and bears witness to the justice with which -Hudson, on his exploring voyage up the river, christened it, the "weary -point." Past the thick masses of wood that mark the shadowy site of -Sleepy Hollow.[58] Past the marble prison of Sing Sing; and Tarrytown, -where poor André was taken; and on the opposite shore, saw the -glimmering white buildings, among which his tomb reposes.--By the by, -for a bit of the marvellous, which I dearly love. I am credibly informed -that on the day the traitor Arnold died, in England, a thunderbolt -struck the tree that grew above André's tomb here, on the shores of the -Hudson--nice, that! Crossed the broad, glorious, Tappan Sea, where the -shores, receding, form a huge basin, where the brimming waters roll in -an expanse of lake-like width, yet hold their rapid current to the -ocean, themselves a running sea. The giant shadows of the mountains on -the left, falling on the deep basin at their feet, the triumphant -sunlight that made the restless mirror that reflected it too bright for -the eye to rest upon, the sunny shores to the right, rising and falling -in every exquisite form that hill and dale can wear, the jutting masses -of granite, glittering like the diamond rocks of fairy-land in the sun, -the golden waves flinging themselves up every tiny crevice, the glowing -crimson foliage of the distant woods, the fresh vivid green of the -cedars, that rifted their strong roots in every stony cleft, and threw a -semblance of summer over these November days--all, all was beautiful, -and full of brightness. We passed the lighthouse of Stony Point, now the -peaceful occupant of the territory where the blood in English veins was -poured out by English hands, during the struggle between old-established -tyranny and the infant liberties of this giant world. Over all and each, -the blessed sky bent its blue arch, resplendently clear and bright, -while far away the distant summits of the Highlands rose one above -another, shutting in the world, and almost appearing as though each bend -of the river must find us locked in their shadowy circle, without means -of onward progress. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At every moment, the scene varied; at every moment, new beauty and -grandeur was revealed to us; at every moment, the delicious lights and -shadows fell with richer depth and brightness upon higher openings into -the mountains, and fairer bends of the glorious river. At about a -quarter to eleven, the buildings of West Point were seen, perched upon -the rock side, overhanging the water; above, the woody rise, upon whose -summit stands the large hotel, the favourite resort of visiters during -the summer season; rising again above this, the ruins of Fort Putnam, -poor André's prison-house, overlooking the Hudson and its shores; and, -towering high beyond them all, the giant hills, upon whose brown -shoulders the trees looked like bristles standing up against the sky. We -left the boat, or rather she left us, and presently we saw her holding -her course far up the bright water, and between the hills; where framed -by the dark mountains, with the sapphire stream below and the sapphire -sky above, lay the bright little town of Newburgh, with its white -buildings glittering in the sunshine. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -We toiled up the ascent, which, though by comparison with its -over-peering fellows inconsiderable, was a sufficiently fatiguing -undertaking under the unclouded weather and over the unshaded downs that -form the parade-ground for the cadets. West Point is a military -establishment, containing some two hundred and fifty pupils, who are -here educated for the army under the superintendence of experienced -officers.[59] The buildings, in which they reside and pursue their -various studies, stand upon a grassy knoll holding the top of the rocky -bank of the river, and commanding a most enchanting view of its course. -They are not particularly extensive, but commodious and well-ordered. I -am told they have a good library; but on reaching the dwelling of Mr. -Cozzens (proprietor of the hotel, which being at this season shut, he -received us most hospitably and courteously in his own house), I felt so -weary, that I thought it impossible I should stir again for the whole -day, and declined seeing it. I had walked on the deck at an amazing -pace, and without once sitting down, from eight o'clock till eleven; and -I think must nearly have killed Colonel ----, who was my companion -during this march. However, upon finding that it wanted full an hour -till dinner-time, it was agreed that we should go up to the fort, and -we set off under the guidance of one of Mr. Cozzens' servants, who had -orders not to go too fast with us. Before turning into the woods that -cover the foot of the mountain, we followed a bit of road that overhung -the river; and stealing over its sleepy-looking waters, where shone like -stars the white sails of many a tiny skiff, came the delicious notes of -a bugle-horn. The height at which we stood above the water prevented the -ear being satisfied with the complete subject of the musician, but the -sweet broken tones that came rising from the far-down thickets that -skirted the river had more harmony than a distinct and perfect strain. I -stood entranced to listen--the whole was like a dream of fairy-land: but -presently our guide struck into the woods, and the world became screened -from our sight. I had thought that I was tired, and could not stir, even -to follow the leisurely footsteps of our cicerone; but tangled brake and -woodland path, and rocky height, soon roused my curiosity, and my legs -following therewith, I presently outstripped our party, guide and all, -and began pursuing my upward path, through close-growing trees and -shrubs, over pale shining ledges of granite, over which the trickling -mountain springs had taken their silvery course; through swampy grounds, -where the fallen leaves lay like gems under the still pools that here -and there shone dimly in little hollow glens; over the soft starry moss -that told where the moist earth retained the freshening waters, over -sharp hard splinters of rock, and rough masses of stone. Alone, alone, I -was alone and happy, and went on my way rejoicing, climbing and climbing -still, till the green mound of thick turf, and ruined rampart of the -fort arrested my progress. I coasted the broken wall, and, lighting down -on a broad smooth table of granite fringed with young cedar bushes, I -looked down, and for a moment my breath seemed to stop, the pulsation of -my heart to cease--I was filled with awe. The beauty and wild sublimity -of what I beheld seemed almost to crush my faculties,--I felt dizzy as -though my senses were drowning,--I felt as though I had been carried -into the immediate presence of God. Though I were to live a thousand -years, I never can forget it. The first thing that I distinctly saw was -the shadow of a large cloud, which rolled slowly down the side of a huge -mountain, frowning over the height where I stood. The shadow moved down -its steep sunny side, threw a deep blackness over the sparkling river, -and then passed off and climbed the opposite mountain on the other -shore, leaving the world in the full blaze of noon. I could have -stretched out my arms, and shouted aloud--I could have fallen on my -knees, and worshipped--I could have committed any extravagance that -ecstasy could suggest. I stood filled with amazement and delight, till -the footsteps and voices of my companions roused me. I darted away, -unwilling to be interrupted. Colonel ---- was following me, but I -peremptorily forbade his doing so, and was clambering on alone, when the -voice of our guide, assuring me that the path I was pursuing was -impassable, arrested my course. My father beckoned to me from above not -to pursue my track; so I climbed through a break, which the rocky walls -of nature and the broken fortifications of art rendered tolerably -difficult of access, and running round the wall joined my father on his -high stand, where he was holding out his arms to me. For two or three -minutes we mingled exclamations of delight and surprise: he then led me -to the brink of the rampart; and, looking down the opposite angle of the -wall to that which I was previously coasting, I beheld the path I was -then following break suddenly off, on the edge of a precipice several -hunched feet down into the valley: it made me gulp to look at it. -Presently I left my father, and, after going the complete round of the -ruins, found out for myself a grassy knoll commanding a full view of the -scene, sufficiently far from my party not to hear their voices, and -screened from seeing them by some beautiful young cedar bushes; and here -I lay down and cried most abundantly, by which means I recovered my -senses, which else, I think, must have forsaken me. How full of thoughts -I was! Of God's great might, and gracious goodness, of the beauty of -this earth, of the apparent nothingness of man when compared with this -huge inanimate creation, of his wondrous value, for whose delight and -use all these fair things were created! I thought of my distant home; -that handful of earth thrown upon the wide waters, whose genius has led -the kingdoms of the world--whose children have become the possessors of -this new hemisphere. I rejoiced to think that when England shall be, as -all things must be, fallen into the devouring past, her language will -still be spoken among these glorious hills, her name revered, her memory -cherished, her fame preserved here, in this far world beyond the seas, -this country of her children's adoption. Poor old mother! how she would -remain amazed to see the huge earth and waters where her voice is heard, -in the name of every spot where her descendants have rested the soles -of their feet: this giant inheritance of her sons, poor, poor, old -England! - - * * * * * - -Where are the poets of this land? Why, such a world should bring forth -men with minds and souls larger and stronger than any that ever dwelt in -mortal flesh! Where are the poets of this land? They should be giants, -too; Homers and Miltons, and Goethes and Dantes, and Shakspeares. Have -these glorious scenes poured no inspirings into hearts worthy to behold -and praise their beauty? Is there none to come here and worship among -these hills and waters till his heart burns within him, and the hymn of -inspiration flows from his lips, and rises to the sky? Is there not one -among the sons of such a soil to send forth its praises to the universe, -to throw new glory round the mountains, new beauty over the waves? Is -inanimate nature, alone, here "telling the glories of God?" Oh, surely, -surely, there will come a time when this lovely land will be vocal with -the sound of song, when every close-locked valley and waving wood, -rifted rock and flowing stream, shall have their praise. Yet 'tis -strange how marvellously unpoetical these people are! How swallowed up -in life and its daily realities, wants, and cares! How full of toil and -thrift, and money-getting labour! Even the heathen Dutch, among us the -very antipodes of all poetry, have found names such as the Donder Berg -for the hills, whilst the Americans christen them Butter Hill, the -Crow's Nest, and _such like_. Perhaps some hundred years hence, when -wealth has been amassed by individuals, and the face of society begins -to grow checkered, as in the old lands of Europe, when the whole mass of -population shall no longer go running along the level road of toil and -profit, when inequalities of rank shall exist, and the rich man shall be -able to pay for the luxury of poetry, and the poor man who makes verses -no longer be asked, "Why don't you cast up accounts?" when all this -comes to pass, as _perhaps_ some day it may, America will have poets. It -seems strange to me that men, such as the early settlers in -Massachusetts, the Puritan founders of New England, the "Pilgrim -Fathers," should not have had amongst them some men, or at least man, in -whose mind the stern and enduring courage, the fervent enthusiastic -piety, the unbending love of liberty, which animated them all, became -the inspiration to poetic thought, and the suggestion of poetical -utterance. They should have had a Milton or a Klopstock amongst them. -Yet, after all, they had excitement of another sort, and, moreover, the -difficulties and dangers, and distresses of a fate of unparalleled -hardship, to engross all the energies of their minds; and I am half -inclined to believe that poetry is but a hothouse growth, and yet I -don't know: I wish somebody would explain to me every thing in this -world that I can't make out.[60] We came down from the mountain at -about half-past one: our party had been joined by Colonel ----, governor -of the College, who very courteously came toiling up to Fort Putnam, to -pay his compliments to us. I lingered far behind them, returning; and, -when they were out of sight, turned back, and once more ascended the -ruin, to look my last of admiration and delight, and then down, down, -every step bringing me out of the clouds, farther from heaven, and -nearer this work i' day world. I loitered, and loitered, looking back at -every step; but at last the hills were shut out by a bend in the road, -and I came into the house to throw myself down on the floor, and sleep -most seriously for half an hour; at the end of which time we were called -to dinner. - -In England, if an innkeeper gives you a good dinner, and places the -first dish on the table himself, you pay him, and he's obliged to you. -Here, an innkeeper is a gentleman, your equal, sits at his table with -you, you pay him, and are obliged to him besides. 'Tis necessary -therefore for a stranger, but especially an Englishman, to understand -the fashions of the land, else he may chance to mistake that for an -impertinent familiarity, which is in fact the received custom of the -country. Mr. Cozzens very considerately gave us our dinner in a private -room, instead of seating us at an ordinary with all the West Point -officers. Moreover, _gave_ in the literal sense, and a very good dinner -it was. He is himself a very intelligent courteous person, and, during -the very short time that we were his guests, showed us every possible -attention and civility. We had scarce finished our dinner, when in -rushed a waiter to tell us that the boat was in sight. Away we trotted, -trailing cloaks, and shawls, any-how fashion, down the hill. The steamer -came puffing up the gorge between the mountains, and in a moment we were -bundled into the boat, hauled alongside, and landed on the deck; and -presently the glorious highlands, all glowing in the rosy sunset, began -to recede from us. Just as we were putting off from shore, a tiny skiff, -with its graceful white sail glittering in the sun, turned the base of -the opposite hill, evidently making to the point whence we embarked. I -have since learned that it contained a messenger to us, from a gentleman -bearing our name, and distantly connected with us, proprietor of some -large iron-works on the shore opposite West Point. However, our kinsman -was too late, and we were already losing sight of West Point, when his -boat reached the shore. Our progress homeward was, if any thing, more -enchanting than our coming out had been, except for leaving all this -loveliness. The sun went down in splendour, leaving the world robed in -glorious beauty. The sky was one glowing geranium curtain, into which -the dark hills rose like shadow-land, stretching beyond, and still -beyond, till they grew like hazy outlines through a dazzling mist of -gold. The glory faded; and a soft violet colour spread downwards to the -horizon, where a faint range of clouds lay floating like scattered rose -leaves. As the day fell, the volumes of smoke from our steam-boat -chimneys became streams of fiery sparks, which glittered over the water -with a strange unearthly effect. I sat on deck watching the world grow -dark, till my father, afraid of the night air, bade me go down; and -there, in spite of the chattering of a score of women, and the squalling -of half as many children, I slept profoundly till we reached New York, -at a quarter to seven. - - -_Saturday, 17th._ - -After breakfast, wrote journal: while doing so, Mr. ---- called to know -if I held my mind in spite of the grey look of the morning. A wan -sunbeam just then lighted on the earth, and I said I would go; for I -thought by about twelve it probably would clear. - - * * * * * - -They called for me in the carriage at eleven; and afterwards we mounted -our steeds in Warren Street to escape the crowd in Broadway. We rode -down to the ferry. The creature, _on top_ of which I sat, was the real -_potatuppy_ butcher's horse. However, it did not shake me, or pull my -arms much, so I was content. As to a horse properly broken, either for -man or woman, I have done looking for it in this land. We went into the -steam-boat on our horses. The mist lay thick over the river; but the -opposite shores had that grey distinctness of colour and outline that -invariably foretells rain in England. The wind blew bitterly keen and -cold. - - * * * * * - -Our riding party was Mr. ----, whom I like; Mrs. ----, whom I also like, -in spite of her outlandish riding-habiliments, a brother of his, - - * * * * * - -and a young ---- in white hair and spectacles. The carriage held old Mr. -----, Miss ----, the youngest daughter, and that beautiful youngest boy -of theirs, who is so like his handsome sister; also sundry baskets of -cake, and bottles of champagne. After landing, we set off at a brisk -canter to Weehawk. None of these people know how to ride: they just go -whatever pace their horse likes, sitting as backward as they can in the -saddle, and tugging at the reins as hard as ever they can, to the -infinite detriment of their own hands and their horses' mouths. When we -had reached the height, we dismounted and walked through the woods that -crown the cliffs, which here rise to an elevation of some hundred feet -above the river. Our path lay through tangled brakes, where the withered -trees and fallen red leaves, the bright cedar bushes, and pale slabs of -granite, formed a fine and harmonious contrast of colouring; the whole -blending beautifully together under the grey light, that made it look -like one of Ruysdael's pictures. Our walk terminated at a little rocky -promontory, called the Devil's Pulpit, where, as legends say, Satan was -wont to preach, loud enough to drown the sound of the Sabbath bells in -New York. The Hudson, far below, lay leaden and sullen; the woods along -the shores looked withered and wintry; a thick curtain of vapour -shrouded all the distance: the effect of the whole was very sad and -beautiful; and had I been by myself I should have enjoyed it very much. -But I was in company, and, moreover, in company with two punsters, who -uttered their atrocities without remorse in the midst of all that was -most striking and melancholy in nature. When we mounted our horses -again, Mrs. ---- complained that hers pulled her wrists most dreadfully; -and, as they seemed none of the strongest, I exchanged steeds with her. -The lady proprietress of the grounds over which we had been walking and -riding invited us into the house, but, being mounted, I declined, and we -set off for the pavilion. Just as we arrived there, it began to rain. -Mercy on me and Mrs. ----! how our arms will ach to-morrow! This worthy -animal of hers had a mouth a little worse than a donkey's. Arrived at -the pavilion, we dismounted, and swallowed sundry champagnes and lumps -of plum cake, which were singularly refreshing. We set off again, and -presently it began to pelt with rain. We reached and crossed the ferry -without gelling very wet. Arranged to ride on Wednesday, if fine, and so -home. Upon the whole, rather satisfied than otherwise with my -expedition. Dressed for dinner at once; went on with journal; Colonel ----- called, and sat some time. After dinner, embroidered till eight: -teaed:--my father went over to the theatre: I practised for two hours. - - -_Sunday, 18th._ - -The muscles of my arms (for I have such unlady-like things) stand out -like lumps of stone, with the fine exercise they had yesterday. I wonder -how Mrs. ----'s shoulders and elbows feel. - - * * * * * - -It rained so, we hackneyed to church. This is twice Mr. ---- has not -been to church, which is really very wrong, though it leaves us the pew -comfortably to ourselves. Dr. ---- must be an excellent good man--his -sermons are every way delightful; good sense, sound doctrine, and withal -a most winning mildness and gentleness of manner. A benevolent good man, -I am sure, he must be. Came home--copied snuff-box verses for my father; -divided out my story of the Sisters into acts and scenes: began doing -the same by the English tragedy; but in the midst took a fancy to make a -story instead of a play of it--and so I will, I think. Dressed for -dinner. At about half-past five Colonel ---- and his Quaker wife came. -She is a most delightful creature, with the sweetest expression of face -imaginable. She reminded me several times of dear Mrs. ----. Her dress, -too, the rich brown watered silk, made so plainly, recalled Mrs. ---- to -me very forcibly. We had a very comfortable dinner and evening. They -went away at about half-past ten. - - -_Monday, 19th._ - -After breakfast, wrote journal. Went out shopping and returning cards; -called on Mrs. ----, and was let in. I like her; she is a nice person, -with agreeable manners. Came home at about half-past two; put out things -for the theatre; dined at three. After dinner, pottered about clothes -till time to go to the theatre. The house was very good. My -benefit--play, Much Ado about Nothing. I played very well. I am much -improved in my comedy acting. Came home in a coach--it poured with rain. -What a stupid day! The accounts of cholera in New Orleans are frightful; -they have the yellow fever there too. Poor people! what an awful -visitation! - - -_Tuesday, 20th._ - -After breakfast, wrote journal. At twelve, went and called upon Mrs. -----: the day was bright, but bitter cold, with a keen piercing wind -that half cut one in half, and was delicious. The servant denied Mrs. -----; but we had hardly turned from the door when both the ladies came -rushing after us, with nothing on their heads and necks, and thin summer -gowns on. They brought us into a room where there was a fire fit to -roast an ox. No wonder the women here are delicate and subject to cold, -and die of consumption. Here were these sitting absolutely in an oven, -in clothes fit only for the hottest days in summer, instead of wrapping -themselves up well, and trotting out, and warming their blood -wholesomely with good hard exercise. The pretty Mrs. ---- looks very -sickly, and coughs terribly. Her beauty did not strike me so much -to-day. I do not admire any body who looks as if a puff of wind would -break them in half, or a drop of water soak them through. I greatly -prefer her sister's looks, who certainly is not pretty, but tall and -straight, and healthy-looking, and springy as a young thing ought to be. -Was introduced to a most enchanting young Newfoundland dog, whom I -greatly coveted. Settled to ride to-morrow, if fine. Called at ----'s, -also at a furrier's about cap, and came home. Found ---- and ---- with -my father. What a very bad expression of face the former has; sneering -and false--terrible! I looked at ---- with much respect. I like his -spirit, as it shines through his works, greatly. He was a pale -sickly-looking man, without any thing at all remarkable in the -expression of his countenance. While they were here, Mr. ---- called to -settle about to-morrow. He is a nice person, sensible and civil, and -civil in the right way. Arrangements were made for dear ----'s going, -which I rejoiced in greatly. I do not like at all leaving her behind. -When the folks were gone, put out things for the theatre. While doing -so, Mr. ---- and Mr. and Mrs. ---- called. Great discoursing about -horses and horsemanship. Dined at three. After dinner, put fur upon my -habit. At half-past five, went to the theatre. House very good; play, -Hunchback. By the by, Colonel ---- called to-day, to entreat me to go -and see his "Honour, the Recorder," who had sent me tickets of admission -to the town-hall, to see ---- receive the freedom of the city. I could -not go, because of our horseback expedition--this by the way. I played -so-soish. ---- was at the play; and at the end, somebody in the house -exclaimed, "Three cheers for ----!" whereupon a mingled chorus of -applause and hisses arose. The Vice-president looked rather silly, and -acknowledged neither the one nor the other. How well I remember the Duke -of ---- coming to the orchestra to see this play, the night before it -was expected the Whigs would go out. I dare say he knew little enough -what the Hunchback was about. I do not think the people noticed him, -however; so the feeling of the pulse must have been unsatisfactory. Mr. ----- said to Modus to-night in the play, speaking of me, "a change of -linen will suffice for her." How absurd! we were all dying on the stage. -Came home; supped:--looked at silks; chose a lovely rose-coloured one to -line my Portia dress; with which good deed my day ended. - - -_Wednesday, 21st._ - -Looked at the sun, and, satisfied with his promise, went to bed again, -and slept till half-past eight. After breakfast, wrote to his honour, -the Recorder, an humble apology in true Old Bailey style. Wrote journal, -and began practising. Mrs. ---- called before I was out of my bed to -tell us that the ----'s were not going, but that either her husband or -her brother-in-law would be too glad to go in the gig with D----. This, -however, the latter refused, not choosing, as she said, to make any -young man do the penance of keeping her company on a party of pleasure. -Dear good old D----! I was vexed and provoked; but it could not be -helped. At eleven, ---- came for me. I found Mrs. ---- in the carriage -waiting for me. We adjourned to Warren Street, where were assembled all -the party. While we waited for our horses, Neptune, the beautiful -Newfoundland, was admitted, and amused himself by prancing over tables, -and chairs, and sofas, to his own infinite delight, and the visible -benefit of the furniture. Our steeds having arrived, we mounted and -began to progress. Myself, and Mrs. ----, her husband, his brother, -----, and papa ----, Dr. ----, Mrs. ----'s brother, and Mr. ----, -nephew, I believe, of the Irish patriot, were the equestrians of the -party. After, followed Mr. ---- and Mrs. ----, all be-coated and -be-furred, in the stanhope. After, followed the ammunition-waggon, -containing a negro servant, Neptune, and sundry baskets of champagne, -cake, and cherry bounce. Away we rushed down Broadway, to the infinite -edification of its gaping multitudes. Mr. ---- had gotten me an -enchanting horse that trotted like an angel. So, in spite of Major -----'s awful denunciation of "disgusting," I had a delicious hard trot -all through the streets, rising in my saddle like a lady, or rather, a -gentleman. My habit seemed to excite considerable admiration and -approbation, and indeed it was _great_. Crossed the Brooklyn ferry in -the steam-boat, and safely landed on the opposite side. The whole army -defiled; the stanhope taking the van, the horses forming the main body, -and the provisions bringing up the rear. Our party separated constantly, -as we progressed, into various groups, but I remained chiefly with Dr. -----, Mr. ----, and old Mr. ----. By the by, those ----s are a charming -family; for Mrs. ---- sits straight in her saddle, and the Doctor -settled, when we started, that when he had _despatched his patients_, he -would call for D---- in the gig, and come down to meet us at the fort. -Our ride thither was extremely agreeable: the day was clear, cold, and -grey; a delightful day for riding. I trotted to my heart's content; and -kept my blood warm, and my spirits like champagne, till we reached the -fort, when, at sight of the Narrows, and the Sandy Hook lighthouse, they -sank deep, deep down. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The sea lay grey and still, without a wave or scarce a ripple. A -thousand light skiffs, of various shapes, lay upon the leaden waters. -The sky was a fine heap of heavy purple clouds, from behind which the -sun shot down his rays, which threw a melancholy wan lustre on the sea -beneath them. 'Twas a sad and beautiful scene. The colouring of the -whole was gloomily harmonious; and the dark shores and grey expanse of -water blended solemnly with the violet-coloured curtain of the heavens. -We went over the fort. 'Tis a fortification of no great size, or, I -should think, strength; but its position, which commands the narrow -entrance to the bay of New York, effectually checks the pass, and guards -the watery defile that leads to the city of Mammon. We looked at the -guns and powder-magazine, walked round the walls, and peeped into the -officers' quarters, and then descended to seek where we might eat and be -satisfied. Mrs. ---- is a very nice creature: she looks the picture of -good temper--never stands still a minute; and as we rode along to-day, -when, fearing she might be cold, I asked her how she found herself, she -replied, with perfect innocence and sincerity, "Oh, delightful!" which -made us all scream. We knocked up the quarters of an old woman who kept -a cottage, not exactly young love's humble shed, but good enough for our -purpose. We got sundry logs of wood, and made a blazing fire; moreover, -the baskets were opened, and presently we presented the interesting -spectacle of a dozen people each with a lump of cake in one hand, and a -champagne glass in the other. Mr. ---- and Mrs. ---- stuck to the cherry -bounce, and, as we afterwards heard, drove home accordingly. Having -discussed, we remounted, and set forwards home by another road; a very -lovely one, all along the river side. Ere we had progressed long, we met -D---- and Dr. ---- in the gig. The nice good man had kept his word, and -gone to fetch her. They had met Mr. ----'s equipage going cherry-bounce -pace, it seems, two miles ahead of us. The men here are never happy -unless they are going full speed. 'Tis no wonder their horses are good -for nothing: they would ruin any horses that were good for any -thing.[61] Such unskilful horsemanship I never saw: going full tear; -crossing one another in every direction; knocking up against one -another; splashing through puddles because they have no hand over their -horses, and either overshooting their point, or being half thrown at -every turn of the road, for the same reason. Came home full speed, and -arrived at half-past four, having ridden, I should think, nearly twenty -miles. Found Mrs. ---- at home. They pressed me very much to stay dinner -with them; but my father expected me, and I would not. That worthy -youth, ----, insisted upon my accepting his beautiful large dog, -Neptune, which I did conditionally, in case Mr. ---- should fail me, -which I think a very improbable case indeed. They ordered the carriage, -and Mr. ---- persisted in seeing me home in it, much to my annoyance, as -'twas a very useless ceremony indeed. Did not dishabit, but dined _en -amazone_. - - * * * * * - -Gave D---- her muff and tippet, which are exceedingly magnificent. After -dinner, pottered about, and dressed at once. Played on the piano till -nine, when we adjourned to ----'s. A complete "small party, my dear." -Dr. ---- was there, whom I was glad to see; also Mrs. ----; also Mr. and -Miss ----; also that Mrs. ----, who is utter horror and perturbation of -spirit to me; also ----; also ----; all our riding party, and a world -besides. After a little time, dancing was proposed; and I stood up to -waltz with Mr. ----, who observed that Dr. ---- was gone, as he never -chose to be present while waltzing was going on. I felt shocked to death -that unconsciously I should have been instrumental in driving him away, -and much surprised that those who knew his disapprobation of waltzing -should have proposed it. However, he was gone, and did not return. -Therefore I waltzed myself out of my conscientious remorse. Sang them -Fanny Gray, and Ye Mariners of Spain. Danced sundry quadrilles; and, -finally, what they called a Kentucky reel,--which is nothing more than -Sir Roger de Coverley turned Backwoodsman--and afterwards a "foursome -reel." Played magic music; and, finally, at one o'clock, came home, -having danced myself fairly off my legs. - - -_Thursday, 22d._ - -It poured with rain all day. Dr. ---- called, and gave me a sermon about -waltzing. As it was perfectly good sense, to which I could reply -nothing whatever in the shape of objection, I promised him never to -waltz again, except with a woman, or my brother. - - * * * * * - -After all, 'tis not fitting that a man should put his arm round one's -waist, whether one belongs to any one but one's self or not. 'Tis much -against what I have always thought most sacred,--the dignity of a woman -in her own eyes and those of others. I like Dr. ---- most exceedingly. -He spoke every way to my feelings of what was right, to-day. After -saying that he felt convinced, from conversations which he had heard -amongst men, that waltzing was immoral in its tendency, he added, "I am -married, and have been in love, and cannot imagine any thing more -destructive of the deep and devoted respect which love is calculated to -excite in every honourable man's heart, not only for the individual -object of his affections, but for her whole sex, than to see any and -every impertinent coxcomb in a ball-room come up to her, and, without -remorse or hesitation, clasp her waist, imprison her hand, and -absolutely whirl her round in his arms." So spake the Doctor; and my -sense of propriety and conviction of right bore testimony to the truth -of his saying. So, farewell, sweet German waltz!--next to hock, the most -intoxicating growth of the Rheinland. I shall never keep time to your -pleasant measure again!--no matter; after all, any thing is better than -to be lightly spoken of, and to deserve such mention. Mr. ---- called, -and sat some time with me. He is grown monstrously fat, and looks -perfectly radiant. He brought with him a good-looking staring man of the -name of ----. We dined at three. After dinner, received a pretty -anonymous nosegay, with sundry very flattering doggrel. The play was the -Stranger. It poured cats and dogs, and the streets were all grey -pudding. I did not expect to see six people in the house; instead of -which 'twas crowded: a satisfactory proof of our attraction. - - -_Friday, 23d._ - -At eleven, went to rehearsal--Isabella. I have forgotten all about it. -They all read their parts; came home; began to practise. The two Mrs. ----- called. I like them mainly, Mrs. ---- particularly. While they were -here, Mr. ---- and a man called; they stayed but a minute. By and by, in -walked Mr. and Mrs. ----; whereupon the ---- departed. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -While they were here, received from ---- the beautiful annual he has -bought for me, which is, indeed, most beautiful; and with it, literally -a copy of verses, which are _not so bad neither_--only think of that!!! -The engravings are from things of Stanfield's, taken on the Rhine; and -made my heart ach to be once more in Europe, in the old land where fairy -tales are told; in the old feudal world, where every rock, and valley, -and stream, are haunted with imaginings wild and beautiful: the hallowed -ground of legend history; the dream-land of fancy and of poetry. Put out -things for the theatre: dined at three. Colonel ---- called: he brought -news of the arrival of a Liverpool packet, and prophesied letters to me. -Went to the theatre. Play, Hunchback--house very fine again. Just as I -was dressing for the second act, three letters were brought into my -room. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I was so much overset by them, that with the strange faculty I have of -pouring one feeling into another, I cried so bitterly in the parting -scene with Clifford, that I could scarcely utter the words of my part. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Saturday, 24th._ - -Our riding expedition having been put off, the day was beautifully -bright and clear. Sat stitching and pottering an infinity. My feet got -so perished that I didn't know what to do. Wrote journal; practised for -an hour; Mr. ---- called. When he was gone, went out with my father. -Called at ----'s to order home my gown for dinner-time. Left a card at -Mrs. ----'s, and then marched down to the tailor's to upbraid him about -my waistcoat, which is infamously ill made.[62] Coming home, met that -very odious Mr. ----, who is the perfection of genteel vulgarity. He -walked home with us. Dressed for dinner. Mme. ---- did not send my gown -home in time: abominable sempstress! so put on my blue, and looked -rather dowdy. Found sundry that we knew: Colonel ----; Mr. ----; my -favourite aversion, Mr. ----; that signal fool, Mr. ----; Miss ----, who -looked like a hair-dresser's wax block; a Miss ----, with lovely feet, -and a terrified Bacchante-looking head, _cum multis aliis_. I sat by one -Mr. ----, who talked without end, and cleverly enough: indeed, it was -rather clever to talk so wonderfully fast and much. After dinner, the -party became much larger: Dr. ----, Mr. ----, the ---- (all but ----), -that entire self-satisfaction, Mr. ----, Mr. ----, and the knight of the -rueful countenance; three singing men, ycleped ----; and a shoal -besides. One of the Mr. ---- and Miss ---- sang the duet in the Didone, -that dear ---- and ---- used to sing so lovelily. They both had good -voices, but the style is but so-soish. Presently, three men sang that -sea glee that I remember Lord and Lady ---- teaching me at ----. What a -strange faculty of our nature this is, this leading back of our minds to -the past, through the agency of our senses, acted upon by present -influences, the renewing life, the magical summoning up of dead time -from its grave, with the very place and circumstance it wore. Wondrous -riddle! what--what are we, that are so curiously made? By and by dancing -was proposed, and I was much entreated and implored to change my -determination about waltzing; but I was inexorable, and waltzed only -with the ladies, who one and all dance extremely well. Mrs. ---- looked -lovely to-night. Dr. ---- says very true, she has a thorough-bred look, -which reminds me a little of our noble English ladies. He says she is -like Lady ----. I think she is prettier: she certainly looks like a gem. -We danced a Kentucky reel, and sundry quadrilles. That long ens, Mr. -----, was tipsy, and went slithering about in a way to kill one; and Mr. ----- was sitting slyly in the corner, pretending to talk to D----, but -in fact dying with laughter at poor ----, who meandered about the room, -to the infinite dismay and confusion of the whole dance. Vain were the -vigorous exertions of his partner, who pulled him this way and that, and -pushed him hither and thither, to all which the unresisting creature -submitted incorrigibly. Remained dancing till half-past twelve, in fact -Sunday morning, and then came home. They made me sing, which I did -abominably. On my return home, found my black satin gown, every atom of -which will have to be unpicked--pleasant! the tradespeople here are -really terrible; they can do nothing, and will take no pains to do any -thing: 'tis a handsome gown spoilt.[63] - - -_Sunday, 25th._ - -My dear father's birth-day! also, by the by, a grand occasion here--the -anniversary of the evacuation of the island by the British troops, which -circumstance the worthy burghers have celebrated ever since with due -devotion and thankfulness. Went to church: Dr. ---- did not preach, -which was a disappointment to me. The music was exquisite; and there was -a beautiful graceful willow branch, with its long delicate fibres and -golden leaves, waving against the blue sky and the church window, that -seemed to me like a magical branch in a fairy tale. It struck me as -strange to-day, as I looked from the crowded gloomy church to the bright -unbounded sky, to think that we call the one the house of God; to be -sure, we have other authority for calling the blue heavens his throne; -and oh, how glorious they did look! The day was bright, but bitter cold. -Coming out of church, saw all our last night's party. On my return home -found a perfect levee; Dr. ----, Mr. ----, Mr. ----, Mr. ----, Mr. ----, -a whole regiment. When they were all gone, wrote journal: having -finished that and my lunch, set out with my father to _fetch a walk_; -which we did to the tune of near six miles, through all the outskirts of -the town, an exceedingly low-life ramble indeed--during which we came -across a man who was preaching in the street. He had not a very large -assembly round him, and we stood in the crowd to hear him. By his own -account, he had been imprisoned before for a similar proceeding; and he -was denouncing, most vehemently, signal judgments on the blind and -wicked corporation who had so stopped the work of righteousness. The -man's face was a very fine one, remarkably intelligent and handsome: he -was cleanly and well dressed, and had altogether a respectable -appearance. When we came home, it was past four. Dressed for dinner. My -father dined with Mr. ----; so D---- and I had a _tête-à-tête_ dinner. -After which, played on the piano for some time; after which, began -letter to H----; after which, wrote journal. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Monday, 26th._ - -Yesterday was evacuation day; but as yesterday was the Lord's day also, -the American militia army postponed their yearly exhibition, and, -instead of rushing about the streets in token of their thankfulness at -the departure of the British, they quietly went to church, and praised -God for that same. To-day, however, we have had firing of pop-guns, -waving of star-spangled banners (some of them rather the worse for -wear), infantry marching through the streets, cavalry (oh, Lord, what -delicious objects they were!) and artillery prancing along them, to the -infinite ecstasy and peril of a dense mob. Went to rehearsal at -half-past ten. Was detained full ten minutes on the way thither, by the -defiling of troops, who were progressing down Broadway. After rehearsal, -came home--put out things for the theatre. Mr. ---- called: while he was -here, spent a delightful half hour at the window, which, overlooking the -Park, commanded a full view of the magnanimous military marshalled -there. O, pomp and circumstance of glorious war! They were certainly not -quite so bad as Falstaff's men, of ragged memory; for, for aught I know -to the contrary, they perhaps _all_ of them had shirts to their backs. -But some had gloves, and some had none; some carried their guns one way, -and some another; some had caps of one fashion, and some of another; -some had no caps at all, but "shocking bad hats," with feathers in -them.[64] The infantry were, however, comparatively respectable troops. -They did not march many degrees out of the straight line, or stoop _too -much_, or turn their heads round _too often_. Mr. ---- remarked, that -militia were seldom more steady and orderly in their appearance. But the -cava'ry! oh, the cavalry! what gems without price they were! Apparently -extremely frightened at the shambling _tituppy_ chargers upon whose -backs they clung, straggling in all directions, putting the admiring -crowd in fear of their lives, and proving beyond a doubt how formidable -they must appear to the enemy, when, with the most peaceable intentions -in the world, they thus jeopardied the safety of their enthusiastic -fellow citizens. Bold would have been the man who did not edge backwards -into the crowd, as a flock of these worthies a-horseback came down the -street--some trotting, some galloping, some racking, some ambling; each -and all "witching the world with wondrous horsemanship." If any thing -ever might be properly called wondrous, they, their riders and -accoutrements, deserve the title. Some wore boots, and some wore shoes, -and one independent hero had got on grey stockings and _slippers_! Some -had bright yellow feathers, and some red and black feathers! I -remembered, particularly, a doctor, in a black suit, Hessian boots, a -cocked hat, and bright yellow gauntlets; another fellow was dressed in -the costume of one of the Der Freyschutz's corps: it looked for all the -world like a _fancy_ parade. The officers fulfilled completely my idea -of Macheath's company of gentlemen of the road; only, I strongly suspect -the latter would have been heartily ashamed of the unhappy hacks the -evacuation heroes had gotten up upon. The parade terminated with a full -half hour's _feu de joie_.[65] - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The bands of these worthies were worthy of them; half a dozen fifers -and drummers playing old English jig tunes. In spite of the folly and -injustice of such a comparison, I could not keep out of my head the last -soldiers I had seen, those fine tall fellows, the grenadier guards, that -used to delight us of a Sunday morning in St. James's Park, and their -exquisite band, and dandy-looking officers. Those _looked_ like -soldiers, whatever they may fight like; and allowing these excellent -good folks to be very lions, look you, I can only say their appearance -approached the sublime, by as near as the French critic assures us the -extreme of the ridiculous does. Dined at three; ---- and ---- called -after dinner. My father went with Mr. ---- to Tammany Hall,[66] where -there was a grand democratic dinner, in honour of the triumph of the -Jackson party, the mob men here. I sat writing to ---- till time to go -to the theatre. The play was Isabella; the house crammed; a regular -holiday audience--shrieking, shouting, laughing, and rowing, like one of -our own Christmas audiences. I acted like a wretch. My dresses looked -very handsome, particularly my marriage dress; but my muslin bed-gown -was so long that, I set my feet through it the very first thing; and -those _animaux bêtes_, who dragged me off, tore a beautiful point lace -veil I had on to tatters, a thing that cost three guineas, if a -farthing! My father received a most amusing letter this morning from -Lord ----, asking us to come over to Jamaica and act, offering us -quarters in his house, and plenty of volunteer actors (did he include -himself, I wonder?) to make up a company, if we will come. I should like -it very well: to pass the winter in that nice warm climate would be -delightful, and I dare say we should find our stay there amusing and -agreeable enough. I wish we could do it. - - -_Tuesday, 27th._ - -After breakfast, Colonel ---- called. Put out things for to-night. At -half-past twelve, went out with my father and Colonel ----. Called upon -his honour, the Recorder, but he was in court, and not to be seen. -Walked down to the Battery. The day was most lovely, like an early day -in June in England: my merino gown was intolerable, and I was obliged to -take a parasol with me, the sun was so powerful. The Battery was, as -usual, totally deserted, though the sky, and shores, and beautiful -bright bay, were smiling in perfect loveliness. A delicious fresh breeze -came wandering over the wide estuary; and graceful boats, with their -full sails glittering in the sun, glided to and fro, swift and strong, -over the smooth waters, like summer clouds across the blue heavens--as -silently, as rapidly, as tracklessly.[67] - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came home at half-past one. Found a card from Mrs. ----. I'm sorry I -didn't see her. ---- called, with one Mr. ----, kinsman to the -authoress. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -While they were here, Mrs. ---- called to settle about to-morrow's ride. -Mr. and Mrs. ---- arriving, the rest departed. We dined at three. After -dinner, came to my own room; wrote journal; went on with letter to ----. -At half-past five, went to the theatre. Play, the Gamester; my father's -benefit; the house was very good. I played pretty well. Mr. ---- -thoroughly bothered me, by standing six yards behind me: what a complete -stroller's trick that is. So we are to act on Saturday. If I can go to -the opera, all the same, I sha'n't mind so much; but I will be in most -horrible dudgeon if it prevents that, for I want to hear this new prima -donna. Mr. ---- was behind the scenes, and ---- _wrapt_, in his usual -seat: he's a delightful bit of audience. Received a bill of the intended -performances for Thursday, Mr. ----'s benefit; and such another farce as -the whole thing is I never heard of; as Mr. ---- says, "the benefit of -humbug," indeed. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came home. While we were at supper, my father showed me a note he had -received from ----, which, to use a most admirable vulgarism, struck me -all of a heap. A sort of threatening letter, desiring him, as he valued -his interest, to come forward and offer to act Charles the Second for -the said Mr. ----'s benefit, having already agreed to act in one piece, -for said Mr. ----'s benefit. "O monstrous! monstrous! most unnatural!" -What a vulgar wretch the man must be! - - -_Wednesday, 28th._ - -Mary ----'s wedding day! Poor lassie! I looked at the bright morning sun -with pleasure for her sake. After breakfast, sat reading the poems of -Willis, a young man, whose works, young as they evidently are, would -have won him some consideration in any but such a thorough work-day -world as this. I cried a good deal over some of this man's verses. I -thought some of them beautiful; and 'tis the property of beauty to stir -the wells of my soul sadly, rather than cast sunshine over them. I think -all things are sad. 'Tis sad to hear sweet music; 'tis sad to read fine -poetry; 'tis sad to look upon the beautiful face of a fair woman; 'tis -sad to behold the unclouded glory of a summer's sky. There is a deep and -lingering tone in the harmony of all beauty that resounds in our souls -with too full and solemn a vibration for pleasure alone. In fact, -_intensity_, even of joy and delight, is in itself serious; 'tis -impossible to be fulfilled with emotion of any sort, and not feel as -though we were within the shadow of a cloud.[68] I remember when first I -recited Juliet to my mother, she said I spoke the balcony scene almost -sadly. Was not such deep, deep love too strong, too passionate, too -pervading, to be uttered with the light laughing voice of pleasure? Was -not that love, even in its fulness of joy, sad--awful? However, perhaps, -I do but see through my own medium, and fancy it the universal one. My -eyes are dark, and most things look darkly through them. At about twelve -o'clock Mrs. ---- called for me; and, escorted by her husband and Mr. -----, we rode forth to visit the island. We went to a pretty cottage -belonging to Mr. ----'s father-in-law, Dr. ----. The day was still and -grey--a pleasant day; there was no sunshine, but neither were there any -dark shadows. My horse had been ill ridden by somebody or another, and -was mighty disagreeable. Our ride was pleasant enough: there was not -much variety in the country we passed through. Masses of granite and -greenish basalt, wild underwood, and vivid bright-looking cedar bushes. -The Hudson lay leaden and sullen under the wings of the restless wind. -We stood to hear the delicious music of the water plashing against the -rocky shore, which is the pleasantest sound in all the world. We then -rode to a place ycleped Hell-gate,[69] from a dangerous current in the -East river, where ships have been lost--and home through the mellow -sunlight of a warm autumnal afternoon. Came in at a little past four. -Devoured sundry puddings and pies; put out clothes for the evening; -dined at five. My father dined at ----'s: I've an especial fancy for -that man. After dinner, sat making blonde tippet, and strumming on the -piano till eight. Drank tea, dressed, and off to Mrs. ----'s "small -party, my dear." - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The people here have no conscience about the questions they ask, and, as -I have one in answering, and always give them "the truth, the whole -truth, and nothing but the truth," it follows that nothing can be more -disagreeable than their queries, except my replies. Mr. ---- was there; -I like him: he has something in him, and is not vulgar or impertinent. -Was introduced to a very handsome French creole woman,[70] whom I liked: -she reminded me of my mother, and her son bore a striking resemblance to -dear ----. We stood up to dance a couple of quadrilles; but as they had -not one distinct idea of what the figures were, the whole was a mess of -running about, explaining, jostling, and awkward blundering.[71] I took -greatly to the governess of the family, a German woman, with a right -German face, a nice person, with quiet simple manners. The women's -voices here distract me; so loud, so rapid, and with such a twang! What -a pity! for they are, almost without an exception, lovely looking -creatures, with an air of refinement in their appearance, which would be -very attractive, but for their style of dress, and those said tremendous -shrill loud voices.[72] Came home at twelve o'clock. My favourite -aversion, Mrs. ----, was there. - - -_Thursday, 29th._ - -My birth-day - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After breakfast, sat writing to dear ---- for some time. Put out things -for the theatre, and went to rehearsal. My father has received a most -comical note from one ----, a Scotch gardener, florist, and seedsman; -the original, by the by, of Galt's Lawrie Todd,--and original enough he -must be. The note expresses a great desire that my father and myself -will call upon him, for that he wishes very much to _look at us_--that -the hours of the theatre are too late for him, and that besides, he -wants to see us as ourselves, and not as "kings and princesses." I have -entreated my father to go: this man must be worth knowing. I shall -certainly keep his note. After rehearsal, came home. Wrote to ----, to -dear ----. Mr. ---- called; also Colonel ----, who gave an account of -the proceedings of the committee for ----'s benefit, which, added to the -gentleman's own note to my father, thoroughly disgusted me. And here I -do solemnly swear, never again, with my own good will, to become -acquainted with any man in any way connected with the public press. They -are utterly unreliable people, generally; their vocation requires that -they should be so; and the very few exceptions I must forego, for -however I might like them, I can neither respect nor approve of their -trade; for trade it is in the vilest sense of the word. Dined at five. -After dinner Mr. and Mrs. ---- came in. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At eight, went to the theatre. The house was, in consequence of the -raised prices, only three parts full. I just caught a glimpse of Forrest -in the fourth act of Brutus. What an enormous man he is! After the play -came sundry songs and recitations, and then Katharine and Petruchio. I -did not play well: the actors were very inattentive, as well as stupid, -and annoyed my father very much. The pit was half filled with women, -opera fashion, who, for the greater attraction of the night, and -satisfaction of themselves, were allowed to sit out of their proper -places: to be sure they had the pleasure of the society of the volunteer -heroes, who, for the benefit of Mr. ----, were all in full uniform. What -an absurdity! Swallowed an ice. Saw ----, also Mr. ----, and young ---- -behind the scenes. Came home and supped. Colonel ---- called, and -discussed, first, the farce on the boards; then the farce before the -curtain; finally, the farce of life, which, to my mind, is but a -melancholy one. - - -_Friday, 30th._ - -How the time goes! Bless the old traveller, how he posts along! After -breakfast, Mrs. ---- and her son, and Mr. ---- called. I like the -latter; his manners are very good, and he is altogether more like a -gentleman than most men here. When they were gone, walked out with my -father to ----'s. The day was grey, and cold, and damp--a real November -day, such as we know them. We held the good man's note, and steered our -course by it, and in process of time entered a garden, passed through a -green-house, and arrived in an immense and most singularly-arranged -seed-shop, with galleries running round it, and the voice of a hundred -canaries resounding through it. I don't know why, but it reminded me of -a place in the Arabian Nights. "Is Mr. ---- within?" shouted forth my -father, seeing no one in this strange-looking abode. "Yes, he is," was -replied from somewhere, by somebody. We looked about, and presently, -with his little grey bullet head, and shrewd piercing eyes, just -appearing above the counter, we detected the master of the house. My -father stepped up to him with an air like the Duke of ----, and, -returning his coarse curiously-folded note to him, said, "I presume I -am addressing Mr. ----: this, sir," drawing me forward, "is Miss Fanny -Kemble." The little man snatched off his spectacles, rushed round the -counter, rubbed his enormous hand upon his blue stuff apron, and held it -out to us with a most hearty welcome. He looked at us for some time, and -then exclaimed, "Ha! ye're her father. Well, ye'll have married pretty -early--ye look very young: I should not have been sae much surprised if -ye had called her ye're wife!" I laughed, and my father smiled at this -compliment, which was recommended by a broad Scotch twang, which always -sounds sweetly in my ears. The little man, whose appearance is that of a -dwarf in some fairy tale, then went on to tell us how Galt had written a -book all about him; how it was, almost word for word, his own story; how -he had come to this country in early life, with three halfpence in his -pocket, and a nail and hammer in his hand, for all worldly substance; -how he had earned his bread by making nails, which was his business in -Scotland; how, one day, passing by some flowers exposed for sale, he had -touched a geranium leaf by accident, and, charmed with its fragrance, -bought it, having never seen one before; how, with fifteen dollars in -his pocket, he commenced the business of a florist and gardener; and how -he had refused as many thousand dollars for his present prosperous -concern; how, when he first came to New York, the place opposite his -garden, where now stands a handsome modern dwelling-house, was the site -of a shed where he did his first bit of work; how, after six-and-twenty -years' absence from Scotland, he returned home; how he came to his -father's house--"'Twas on a bright morning in August--the eighth of -August, just, it was--when I went through the door. I knew all the old -passages so well: I opened the parlour door, and there, according to the -good old Scottish custom, the family were going to prayers afore -breakfast. There was the old Bible on the table, and the old clock -ticking in the corner of the room; there was my father in his own old -chair, exactly just where I had left him six-and-twenty years gone by. -The very shovel and tongs by the fire were the same; I knew them all. I -just sat down, and cried as sweetly as ever a man did in his life." -These were, as nearly as I can recollect, his words; and oh, what a -story! His manner, too, was indescribably vivid and graphic. My father's -eyes filled with tears. He stretched out his hand, and grasped and shook -the Scotchman's hand repeatedly without speaking; I never saw him more -excited. I never was more struck myself with the wonderful strangeness -of this bewildering life. He showed us the foot of a rude rustic-looking -table. "That," he said, "was cut from out the hawthorn hedge that grows -by my father's house; and this," showing us a wooden bowl, "is what I -take my _parritch_ in!" I asked him if he never meant to leave this -country, and return to bonny Scotland. He said, No, never: he might -return, but he never meant to settle any where but here. "For," added -he, "I have grown what I am in it, madam, and 'tis a fine country for -the poor." He had been an early martyr, too, to his political opinions; -and, when only nineteen years of age, had been imprisoned in Edinburgh -for advocating the cause of that very reform which the people are at -this moment crying jubilee over in England. He seemed to rejoice in this -country, as in the wide common land of political freedom, unbounded by -the limits of long-established prejudice, unbroken by the deep trenches -which divide class from class in the cultivated soil of the old world. I -could have listened to this strange oracle for a day; but in the midst -of his discourse he was summoned to dinner; and presenting his son to -us, who presented a nosegay to me, left us to wander about his singular -domain. His father, by the by, is still alive, and residing within six -miles of Edinburgh, a man of ninety years and upwards. We walked about -the shop, visited the birds, who are taken most admirable care of, and -are extremely beautiful. I saw several mocking birds: they should sing -well, for they are not pretty. Their plumage is of a dull grey colour, -and they are clumsy-looking birds.[73] Saw two beautiful African widow -birds, with their jet black hoods and trains. Saw an English blackbird, -and thrush, _in cages_. They made my heart ach. I wonder if they ever -think of the red ripe cracking cherries, the rich orchard lands, and the -hawthorn-hedged lanes in the summer sunsets of dear England? I did for -them. We then went and looked at a tank full of beautiful gold fish, as -they indiscriminately called them. But though the greater number were -the glittering scarlet creatures usually so denominated, some were of -the richest purple, with a soft dark bloom playing over their sides; -others, again, were perfectly brown, with a glancing golden light -shining through their scales; others were palest silver; others, again, -mingled the dazzling scarlet with spots of the most beautiful gloomy -violet, like dark-coloured jewels set in fire. Their tank was planted -with the roots of aquatic vegetables, which, in summer, spread their -cool leaves over the water, which is perpetually renewed by means of an -escape, and a little silvery fountain which keeps bubbling up in the -midst. They seemed very happy, and devoured sundry pieces of wafer -paper, while we admired them at our leisure. Saw an India-rubber tree, a -very young one, which had not attained its full growth. 'Tis a fine -broad-leaved tree, unlike any that I ever saw before. After dawdling -about very satisfactorily for some time, we departed from the dwelling -of Lawrie Todd. Of a verity, "truth is strange, stranger than fiction." -Went to a bookseller's. I bought a Bible for little ----; my father, a -Shakspeare for ----. Came home. Mr. ---- called, and gossiped some time -with me. Told me a bit of scandal, of which I had some slight suspicion -before, _i. e._ that Mr. ---- was pretty Mrs. ----'s very devoted. At -half-past four dressed for dinner. Colonel ---- called just as we were -going to dinner. At five, my father and I went to Mrs. ----'s. A -pleasant dinner. I like him enough, and I like her very much. She is -extremely pretty, and very pleasant. Sat by that tall ninny, Mr. ----, -who uttered inanity the whole of dinner-time. After dinner, the usual -entertaining half hour among the ladies passed in looking over -caricatures. When the men joined us, Mr. ---- came and sat down by me, -and in the course of a few minutes, poor Lord ---- having by chance been -mentioned, we fell into English talk; and it appears that he knows -sundry of my gracious _patrons_; among the rest, the ----s. He had been -at ----; and it pleased me to speak of it again. But what in the name of -all wonders could possess him with the idea that Lady ---- was guilty of -editing the Comic Annual. Was asked to sing, and sang "Ah no ben mio" -pretty well. Mr. ---- sang a thing of his own very well, though it was -not in itself worth much. Discussed all manner of prima donnas with him. -At half-past nine, D---- came for me, and we proceeded to the ----s. The -people here never tell one when they mean to dance; the consequence is, -that one is completely put out about one's toilet. I was in a black -satin dress; and dancing in these hot rooms, might as well have been in -a pall. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -In the middle of the evening, Dr. ---- asked if I would allow him to -introduce to me one Mr. ----, a very delightful man, full of abilities, -_and_ writer in such and such a paper. I immediately called to mind my -resolution, and refused. In the mean time, Mrs. ----, less scrupulous, -and without asking my leave, brought the gentleman up, and introduced -him. I was most ungracious and forbidding, and meant to be so. I am -sorry for this, but I cannot help it: he is ----'s brother, too, which -makes me doubly sorry. As he is an agreeable man, and ----'s brother, I -esteem and reverence him; but, as he belongs to the press gang, I will -not know him. The room was full of pretty women, one prettier than -another. I danced myself half dead, and came home. By the by, was -introduced to young ----, who, at the corner of a street, with a red cap -on his head, might pass for a capital hickory pole. Mrs. ----'s -bed-room, where we left our cloaks, made my heart ach. 'Twas exactly -like my dear little bed-room at home; the bed, the furniture, and the -rose-coloured lining, all the same. - - -_Saturday, December 1st, 1832._ - -First day of the last month of the year--go it, old fellow! I'm sick of -the road, and would be at my journey's end. Got two hundred dollars from -my father, and immediately after breakfast sallied forth: paid bills and -visits, and came home. Found my father sitting with our kinsman, Mr. -----, busily discussing the family origin, root, branches, and all. We -are an old family, they say, but the direct line is lost after Charles -the Second's reign. Our kinsman is a nice man, with a remarkably fine -face, with which I was greatly struck. When he was gone, persuaded my -father to come down and take a breathing on the Battery with me. And a -breathing it was with a vengeance. The wind blew tempestuously, the -waters, all troubled and rough, were of a yellow green colour, breaking -into short, strong, angry waves, whose glittering white crests the wind -carried away, as they sank to the level surface again. The shores were -all cold, distinct, sharp-cut, and wintry-looking, the sky was black and -gloomy, with now and then a watery wan sunlight running through it. The -wind was so powerful, we could scarcely keep our legs. My sleeves and -skirts fluttered in the blast, my bonnet was turned front part behind, -my nose was blue, my cheeks were crimson, my hair was all tangled, my -breath was gone, my blood was in a glow: what a walk! Met dear Dr. ----, -whom I love. Came in--dined. After dinner, bethought me that I had not -called upon Mrs. ----, according to promise. Sent for a coach, and set -forth thither; didn't know the number, so drove up Spring Street, and -down Spring Street, and finally stopped at a shop, got a directory, and -found the address. Sat a few minutes with her, and at five o'clock left -her. The day was already gone--the _gloamin_ come. The keen cutting wind -whizzed along the streets; huge masses of dark clouds, with soft brown -edges, lay on the pale delicate blue of the evening sky. The moon was -up, clear, cold, and radiant; the crowd had ebbed away from the busy -thoroughfare, and only a few men in great-coats buttoned up to their -chins, and women wrapped in cloaks, were scudding along in the dim -twilight and the bitter wind towards their several destinations, with a -frozen shuddering look that made me laugh. I had got perished in the -coach, and seeing that the darkness covered me, determined to walk home, -and bade the coach follow me. How pleasant it was! I walked tremendously -fast, enjoying the fresh breath of the north, and looking at the -glittering moon, as she rode high in the evening sky. How I do like -walking alone--being alone; for this alone I wish I were a man. At -half-past five, went to the theatre. The house was crammed; play, -Hunchback. I missed ---- from his accustomed seat, and found that like a -very politician he had changed sides. I played abominably; my voice was -weak and fagged. After the play, Katharine and Petruchio. I played that -better; my father was admirable--it went off delightfully. When it was -over, they called for my father, and with me in his hand he went on. The -pit rose to us like Christians, and shouted and hallooed as I have been -used to hear. I felt sorry to leave them: they are a pleasant audience -to act to, and exceedingly civil to us, and I have got rather attached -to them. New York, too, seems nearer home than any other place, and I -felt sorry to leave it. When we had withdrawn, and were going up stairs, -we heard three distinct and tremendous cheers. On asking what that -meant, we learnt 'twas a compliment to us--thank 'em kindly. Came home: -found Mr. ---- had sent me Contarini Fleming. Began reading it, and -could scarce eat my supper for doing so. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Sunday, 2d._ - -While dressing, received a "sweet note" from Mrs. ----, accompanied with -a volume of Bryant's poetry, which, as I like very much, I am her -obliged. Swallowed two mouthfuls of bread, and away to church. It was -very crowded, and a worthy woman had taken possession of the corner seat -in Mr. ----'s pew, with a fidgetting little child, which she kept -dancing up and down every two minutes: though in church, I wished for -the days of King Herod. What strange thoughts did occur to me to-day -during service! 'Tis the first Sunday in Advent. The lesson for the day -contained the history of the Annunciation. What a mystery our belief is! -how seldom it is that we consider and, as it were, _take hold_ of what -we say we believe, and when we do so, how bewildered and lost we -become,--how lost among a thousand wild imaginations,--how driven to and -fro by a thousand doubts,--how wrecked amidst a thousand fears! Surely -we should be humble: we should indeed remember that we _cannot know_, -and not strive for that knowledge which our souls will lose themselves -in seeking for, and our overstrained minds crack in reaching at. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At the end of service they sang Luther's hymn. I cried with nervous -excitement, not at that, but at my recollection of Braham's singing it -with that terrible trumpet accompaniment, that used to make my heart -stand still and listen. Stayed and took the sacrament. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came home: found a whole regiment of men. His honour the Recorder, who -is my especial delight, Mr. ----, ----, whom I greatly affection; to -these presently entered Mr. ---- and Mr. ----. They one by one bade me -good-by; how disagreeable that is, that good-by! Mr. ---- read me a -passage out of one of Jeffrey's letters, describing an English fine -lady. The picture is admirable, and most faithful; they are, indeed, -polished, brilliant, smooth as ice, as slippery, as treacherous, as -cold. When they were all gone, Colonel ---- gave me to read the -descriptive sketch of the French opera, La Tentation, that has been -setting all Paris wild. What an atrocious piece of blasphemy, indecency, -and folly--what a thoroughly French invention. Mad people! mad people! -mad people! Looked over bills, settled accounts, righted desk, tore up -papers; among others, sundry anonymous love-letters that I had treasured -up as specimens of the purely funny in composition, but which began to -take up too much room. Dressed for dinner. After dinner, sat writing -journal, and reading Contarini Fleming. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Monday, 3d._ - -Rose at half-past four. The sky was black as death, but in the night -winter had chopped his mantle on the earth, and there it lay, cold, and -purely white, against the inky sky. Dressed: crammed away all the -gleanings of the packing, and in thaw, and sleet, and rain, drove down -to the steam-boat. Went directly to the cabin. On my way thither, -managed to fall down half-a-dozen steep steps, and give myself as many -bruises. I was picked up and led to a bed, where I slept profoundly till -breakfast time. Our kinsman, Mr. ----, was our fellow-passenger: I like -him mainly. After breakfast, returned to my crib. As I was removing -Contarini Fleming, in order to lie down, a _lady_ said to me, "Let me -look at one of those books;" and, without further word of question of or -acknowledgment, took it from my hand, and began reading. I was a _little -surprised_, but said nothing, and went to sleep. Presently I was roused -by a pull on the shoulder, and another lady, rather more civil, and -particularly considerate, asked me to do her the favour of lending her -the other. I said, by all manner of means, wished her at the devil, and -turned round to sleep once more. Arrived at Amboy, we disembarked and -bundled ourselves into our coach, ourselves, our namesake, and a pretty -quiet lady, who was going, in much heaviness of heart, to see a sick -child. The roads were unspeakable; the day most delightfully -disagreeable. My bruises made the saltatory movements of our crazy -conveyance doubly torturing; in short, all things were the perfection of -misery. I attempted to read, but found it utterly impossible to do so. -Arrived at the Delaware, we took boat again; and, as I was sitting very -quietly reading Contarini Fleming, with the second volume lying on the -stool at my feet, the same unceremonious lady who had _borrowed_ it -before snatched it up without addressing a single syllable to me, read -as long as she pleased, and threw it down again in the same style when -she went to dinner. Now I know that half the people here, if they were -to read that in Mrs. Trollope, would say, "Oh, but you know she could -not have been a lady, 'tis not fair to judge of our manners by the -vulgar specimens of American society which a steam-boat may afford." -Very true: but granting that she was _not_ a lady (which she certainly -was not), supposing her to have been a housemaid, or any thing else of -equal pretensions to good breeding, the way to judge is by comparing -her, not with ladies in other countries, but with housemaids, persons in -her own condition of life; and 'tis most certain that no person -whatsoever, however ignorant, low, or vulgar, in England, would have -done such a thing as that. But the mixture of the republican feeling of -equality peculiar to this country, and the usual want of refinement -common to the lower classes of most countries, forms a singularly -felicitous union of impudence and vulgarity, to be met with no where but -in America.[74] Arrived at the Mansion House, which I was quite glad to -see again. Installed myself in a room, and, while they brought in the -packages, finished Contarini Fleming. It reminded me of Combes' book: I -wonder whether he is turning phrenologist at all? those physiological -principles were the bosom friends of the Combes' phrenological ones. -Stowed away my things, made a delicious huge wood fire, dressed myself, -and went down to dinner. Our kinsman dined with us. Mr. ---- came in -while we were at dinner. After dinner, came up to my room, continued -unpacking and putting away my things till near nine o'clock. When we -went down to tea, my father was lying on the sofa asleep, and a man was -sitting with his back to the door, reading the newspaper. He looked up -as we came in: it was ----, whom I greatly rejoiced to see again. During -tea, he told us all the Philadelphia gossip. So the ladies are all -getting up upon horses, and wearing the "_Kemble_ cap," as they call -Lady ----'s device. How she would laugh if she could hear it; how I did -laugh when I did hear it. The Kemble cap, forsooth! thus it is that -great originators too often lose the fame of their inventions, and that -the glory of a _new idea_ passes by the head that conceived it, to -encircle, as with a halo, that of some mere imitator; thus it is that -this very big world comes to be called America, and not Columbia, as it -_ought to_; thus it is--etc., etc., etc. He sat for some time. Saw poor -Mrs. ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -She is better, poor thing; I like her amazingly. - - -_Tuesday, 4th._ - -After breakfast practised for two hours. ---- called and stayed some -time. Came up to my own room; wrote journal: while doing so a note -containing two cards, and an invitation to "tea," from the Miss ----s -was brought to me. Presently I was called down to receive our kinsman, -who sat some time with me, whom I like most especially, who is a -gentleman, and a very nice person. Came up and resumed my journal: was -again summoned down to see young Mr. ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -When he was gone, finished journal, wrote to Mrs. ----, to my mother, -read a canto in Dante, and began to write a novel. Dined at five. After -dinner, put out things for this evening, played on the piano, mended -habit shirt, dressed myself, and at a quarter to ten went to the theatre -for my father. I had on the same dress I wore at Devonshire House, the -night of the last ball I was at in England, and looked at myself in -amazement, to think of all the strangenesses that have befallen since -then. We proceeded to Miss ----'s, and this tea-party turned out to be a -very crowded dance, in small rooms upon carpets, and with a roasting -fire. Was introduced to all the world and his wife. Dr. ---- claimed -acquaintance with us, and danced with me: I like his manners very much. -I have beheld Miss ----, and should doubtless now depart in peace. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Lord! Lord! what fools men and women do make themselves. Was introduced -to one Mr. ----, Mr. ----'s partner, whom I received graciously for the -sake of the good days on board the Pacific. Came away at a little after -twelve. I never felt any thing like the heat of the rooms, or heard any -thing so strange as the questions the people ask one, or saw any thing -more lovely than the full moonlight on the marble buildings of -Philadelphia. - - -_Wednesday, 5th._ - -After breakfast, practised: Mr. and Mrs. ---- called, also Dr. ----. -Went and saw poor Mrs. ---- for a little time; she interests me most -extremely--I like her very very much. Came up to my own room; read a -canto of Dante. Was called down to see folk, and found the drawing-room -literally thronged. The first face I made out was Mr. ----'s, for whom I -have taken an especial love: two ladies, a whole load of men, and Mr. -----, who had brought me a curious piece of machinery, in the shape of a -musical box, to look at. It contained a little bird, no larger than a -large fly, with golden and purple wings, and a tiny white beak. On the -box being wound up, this little creature flew out, and, perching itself -on the brink of a gold basin, began fluttering its wings, opening its -beak, and uttering sundry very melodious warblings, in the midst of -which, it sank suddenly down, and disappeared, the lid closed, and there -was an end. What a pity 'tis that we can only realise fairy-land -through the means of machinery. One reason why there is no such thing -left as the believing faculty among men, is because they have themselves -learnt to make magic, and perform miracles. When the coast was once more -clear, I returned to my room, got out things for the theatre, dined -_tête-à-tête_ with D----; my father dined at the public table. After -dinner, came up stairs, read Grahame, wrote journal, began my novel -under another shape. I can't write prose; (query, can I any thing else?) -I don't know how, but my sentences are the comicalest things in the -world; the end forgets the beginning, and the whole is a perfect -labyrinth of parenthesis within parenthesis. Perhaps, by the by, without -other view, it would be just as well if I exercised myself a little in -writing my own language, as the grammar hath it, "with elegance and -propriety." At half-past five, went to the theatre. The play was Romeo -and Juliet; the house not good. Mr. ---- played Romeo. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I acted like a wretch, of course; how could I do otherwise? Oh, Juliet! -vision of the south! rose of the garden of the earth! was this the -glorious hymn that Shakspeare hallowed to your praise? was this the -mingled strain of Love's sweet going forth, and Death's dark victory, -over which my heart and soul have been poured out in wonder and -ecstasy?--How I do loathe the stage! these wretched, tawdry, glittering -rags, flung over the breathing forms of ideal loveliness; these -miserable, poor, and pitiful substitutes for the glories with which -poetry has invested her magnificent and fair creations--the glories with -which our imagination reflects them back again. What a mass of wretched -mumming mimicry acting is! Pasteboard and paint, for the thick breathing -orange groves of the south; green silk and oiled parchment, for the -solemn splendour of her noon of night; woolen platforms and canvass -curtains, for the solid marble balconies and rich dark draperies of -Juliet's sleeping-chamber, that shrine of love and beauty; rouge, for -the startled life-blood in the cheek of that young passionate woman; an -actress, a mimicker, a sham creature, me, in fact, or any other one, for -that loveliest and most wonderful conception, in which all that is true -in nature, and all that is exquisite in fancy, are moulded into a living -form. To _act_ this! to _act_ Romeo and Juliet! horror! horror! how I do -loathe my most impotent and unpoetical craft! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -In the last scene of the play, I was so mad with the mode in which all -the preceding ones had been perpetrated, that, lying over Mr. ----'s -corpse, and fumbling for his dagger, which I could not find, I, Juliet, -thus apostrophised him,--Romeo being dead--"why, where _the_ devil _is_ -your dagger, Mr. ----!" What a disgusting travesty. On my return home, I -expressed my entire determination to my father to perform the farce of -Romeo and Juliet no more. Why, it's an absolute _shame_ that one of -Shakspeare's plays should be thus turned into a mockery. I received a -note from young Mr. ----, accompanied by a very curious nosegay in -shells; a poor substitute for the breathing, fresh, rosy flowers he used -to furnish me with, when I was last here. - - -_Thursday, 6th._ - -The morning was beautifully bright and warm, like a May morning in -England. After breakfast, practised for two hours: while doing so, was -interrupted by Mr. ----, who came to bid us good-by. He was going on to -New York, and thence to England. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -He sat some time. When he was gone, and I had finished my practising, -came up to my own room. Was summoned thence to see my kinsman, who sat -some time with me, and whom I like of all things. He makes it out (for -he seems a great meddler in these matters) that we are originally -Italian people, pirates by name, Campo Bello; the same family as the -Scottish Campbells; the same family as the Norman Beauchamps: how I only -wish it were true! I have, and always have had, the greatest love and -veneration for old blood; I would rather by far have some barbarous -Saxon giant to my ancestor, than all the wealth of the earth to my -dower. I parted from my friend with much regret; he has won my heart -fairly. When he was gone, came up to my own room. The day was brilliant -and unclouded; and, as I looked into the serene blue sky, my spirit -longed for wings. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Dr. ---- called this morning, and interested me by a long account of -Webster; in the course of which, however, he gave me, if possible, a -stronger distaste than I had before to the form of government in this -country, from various results which he enumerated as inevitably -belonging to it. Read a canto in Dante: it consoles me to read my -Italian, and forget for a time all that is. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I sat watching the glorious sunset, as it came redly streaming into my -room, touching every thing with glory, and shining through my hair upon -my book. It suggested to me a picture; and I wrote one for Mrs. ----, -who had been consulting me about a costume in which to sit for her -portrait. Dined at five: my father dined out. After dinner, sat writing -journal till ten, when he returned. The moon was shining soft and full, -and he asked me if I would take a walk. I bonneted and booted, and we -sallied forth to the Schuylkill. The moon withdrew herself behind a veil -of thin white clouds, but left a grey clear light over the earth, and -through the sky. We reached the Fair Mount bridge at about eleven. The -turnpike was fast, and every body asleep, so we climbed over the gate, -and very deliberately pursued our way through the strange dark-looking -covered bridge, where the glimmering lamps, at distant intervals, threw -the crossing beams and rafters into momentary brightness, that had a -strange effect contrasted with the surrounding gloom.[75] We reached the -other side, and, turning off from the road, began climbing the hill -opposite the breakwater. The road was muddy in the valley with heavy -rains; and unwilling to wade through the dirt, we clambered along a -paling for several yards, and so escaped the mire. My father steered for -the grassy knoll just opposite Fair Mount; and there, screened by a -thicket of young cedar bushes, with the river breaking over the broad -dam far below us, and the shadowy banks on the other side melting away -in the soft grey light, we sat down on a tree trunk. Here we remained -for upwards of a quarter of an hour without uttering a syllable; indeed, -we had not spoken three words since we set out. My father was thinking, -I presume, of ---- something; I, of the day of judgment--when these -thick forests, and wide strong waters, like a shrivelled scroll, are to -burn to ashes before the coming of God's justice. We were disturbed by a -large white spaniel dog, who, coming down from among the cedar bushes, -reminded me of the old witch stories, and Faust. We arose to depart, and -took our way towards the Market Street bridge, along the banks of the -river. The broken notes of a bugle-horn came at intervals across the -sleeping waters from the opposite shore, where shone reflected the few -lingering lights from the houses that had not yet shut up for the night. -The moon, faintly struggling through the clouds, now touched the dark -pyramids of the cedar trees that rose up into the grey sky, and threw -our shadows on the lonely path we were pursuing, now cast a pale gleam -through the rapid clouds that chased one another like dreams across the -sky. The air was soft and balmy as the night air of mid August. The -world was still; and, except our footfalls, as we trudged along, no -sound disturbed the universal repose. We did not reach home till -half-past twelve. As we walked down Market Street, through the long -ranges of casks, the only creatures stirring, except some melancholy -night-loving cat, my father said very calmly, "How I do wish I had a -gimlet."--"What for?"--"What fun it would be to pierce every one of -these barrels." For a gentleman of his years, this appeared to me rather -a juvenile prompting of Satan; and as I laughingly expostulated on the -wickedness of such a proceeding, he replied with much innocence, "I -don't think they'd ever suspect me of having done it;" and truly I don't -think they would. Came home, and to bed. That was a curious fancy of my -father's. - - -A PICTURE. - - Through the half open'd casement stream'd the light - Of the departing sun. The golden haze - Of the red western sky fell warm and bright - Into that chamber large and lone: the blaze - Touch'd slantingly curtain and couch, and threw - A glory over many an antique gem, - Won from the entombed cities that once grew - At the volcano's foot. Mingled with them - Stood crystal bowls, through which the broken ray - Fell like a shower of precious stones, and lay - Reflected upon marble; these were crown'd - With blushing flowers, fresh and glittering yet - With diamond rain-drops. On the crimson ground - A shining volume, clasp'd with gold and jet, - And broken petals of a passion-flower - Lay by the lady of this silent bower. - Her rippling hair fell from her pearly round - That strove to clasp its billowy curls: the light - Hung like a glory on their waves of gold. - Her velvet robe, in many a violet fold, - Like the dark pansy's downy leaf, was bound - With a gold zone, and clasp'd with jewels bright, - That glow'd and glanced as with a magic flame - Whene'er her measured breathing stirr'd her frame. - Upon her breast and shoulders lay a veil - Of curious needle-work, as pure and pale - As a fine web of ivory, wrought with care, - Through which her snowy skin show'd smooth and fair. - Upon the hand that propp'd her drooping head, - A precious emerald, like a fairy well, - Gleam'd with dark solemn lustre; a rich thread - Of rare round pearls--such as old legends tell - The Egyptian queen pledged to her Roman lord, - When in her cup a kingdom's price she pour'd,-- - Circled each soft white arm. A painter well - Might have been glad to look upon her face, - For it was full of beauty, truth, and grace; - And from her lustrous eyes her spirit shone - Serene, and strong, and still, as from a throne. - - -_Friday, 7th._ - -A break. Found ---- in the breakfast-room. The morning was very -unpropitious; but I settled to ride at one, if it was tolerably fine -then. He remained pottering a long time: when he was gone, practised, -habited, went in, for a few minutes, to Mrs. ----. At one the horses -came; but mine was brought without a stirrup, so we had to wait, Lord -knows how long, till the blundering groom had ridden back for it. At -length we mounted. "Handsome is that handsome does," is verity; and, -therefore, pretty as was my steed, I wished its good looks and itself at -the devil, before I was halfway down Chestnut Street. It pranced, and -danced, and backed me once right upon the pavement. We took the Laurel -Hill road. The day was the perfection of gloom--the road six inches deep -in heavy mud. We walked the whole way out! my father got the cramp, and -lost his temper. At Laurel Hill we dismounted, and walked down to the -river side. How melancholy it all looked! the turbid rhubarby water, the -skeleton woods, the grey sky, and far winding away of the dark rocky -shores; yet it was fine even in this gloom, and wonderfully still. The -clouds did not move,--the water had not the faintest ripple,--the trees -did not stir a branch; the most perfect and profound trance seemed to -have fallen upon every thing. ---- and I scrambled down the rocks -towards the water, expatiating on the capabilities of this place, which -was once a country-seat, and with very little expense might be made a -very enchanting as well as a very comfortable residence; always -excepting, of course, the chance of fever and ague during the summer -months, when the whole of the banks of the Schuylkill, high and rocky as -they are, are considered so unhealthy, that the inhabitants are obliged -to leave their houses until the winter season, when the country -naturally loses half its attractions. At half-past three, we mounted, -and, crossing the river, returned home by a much better road. My horse, -however, was decidedly a brute,--pulled my arms to pieces, cantered with -the wrong leg foremost, trotted in a sort of scuttling fashion, that -rendered it utterly impossible to rise in the stirrup, and, instead of -walking, jogged the breath out of my body. I was fairly done up when we -reached home. Dressed, and dined; ---- dined with us. After dinner, went -and sat with Mrs. ----. So it seems Carolina is in a state of -convulsion. Reports have arrived that the Nullifiers and Unionists have -had a fight in Charleston, and that lives have been lost. "Bide a wee," -as the Scotchman says; we talk a good deal on the other side the water -of matters that are far enough off; but as for America, the problem is -not yet solved--and this very crisis (a more important one than has yet -occurred in the political existence of this country) is threatening to -slacken the bonds of brotherhood between the states, and shake the -Union to its centre. The interests of the northern states are totally -different from, and in some respects opposite to, those of the southern -ones. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The tariff question is the point in debate; and the Carolinians have, it -seems, threatened to secede from the Union in consequence of the policy -pursued with regard to that. I was horrified at Dr. ----'s account of -the state of the negroes in the south. To teach a slave to read or write -is to incur a penalty either of fine or imprisonment. They form the -larger proportion of the population, by far; and so great is the dread -of insurrection on the part of the white inhabitants, that they are kept -in the most brutish ignorance, and too often treated with the most -brutal barbarity, in order to insure their subjection. Oh! what a -breaking asunder of old manacles there will be, some of these fine days; -what a fearful rising of the black flood; what a sweeping away, as by a -torrent, of oppressions and tyrannies; what a fierce and horrible -retaliation and revenge for wrong so long endured--so wickedly -inflicted. When I came in to tea, at half-past eight, found Dr. ---- -there. - - * * * * * - -When he was gone, sang a song or two, like a crow in the quinsy. - - * * * * * - - -_Wednesday, 12th._ - -After breakfast, went to rehearsal; after rehearsal, went to ----'s. It -poured with rain. Came home; put out things for the theatre; practised -for an hour; finished letter to ----; wrote journal; dined at three. -After dinner, went and sat with Mrs. ----. Sang to her all my old Scotch -ballads; read the first act of the Hunchback to her. At half-past five, -went to the theatre. Play, King John; house good: I played horribly. My -voice, too, was tired with my exertions, and cracked most awfully in the -midst of "thunder," which was rather bad. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I had finished early, and came home in my dress in order to show it to -Mrs. ----. She was just gone to bed, but admitted me. - - * * * * * - -Sat talking to her until my father came home. So "Old Hickory" means to -lick the refractory southerns: why they are coming to a civil war! -However, the grumblers haven't the means of fighting without -emancipating and arming their slaves. That they will not and dare not -do; the consequence will be, I suppose, that they will swallow the -affront, and submit. - - -_Thursday, 13th._ - -While dressing, had the pleasure of witnessing from my window a -satisfactory sample of the innate benevolence, gentleness, and humanity -of our nature: a child of about five years old, dragging a cat by a -string tied to its throat round and round a yard, till the poor beast -ceased to use its paws, and suffered itself to be trailed along the -ground, after which the little fiend set his feet upon it, and stamped -and kicked it most brutally. The blood came into my face; and, though -almost too far for hearing, I threw up the sash, and at the top of my -voice apostrophised the little wretch with "Hollo there! wicked, naughty -boy!" He seemed much puzzled to discover whence this appeal proceeded, -but not at all at a loss to apply it; for, after looking about with a -very conscience-stricken visage, he rushed into the house, dragging his -victim with him. I came down, fairly sick, to breakfast. After -despatching it, I put on my bonnet and walked round to the house where -this scene had taken place. I enquired for the child, describing his -appearance, and he was presently brought to me; when I sat down at the -foot of the stairs in the hall, and spent some time in expatiating on -the enormity of such proceedings to the little ruffian, who, it seems, -has frequently been corrected for similar ferocities before. I fear my -preachment will not avail much. Came home, put room to rights, practised -for an hour; got ready, and dawdled about most dreadfully, waiting for -D----, who had gone out with my father. At half-past twelve, set off -with her to the riding-school. It was full of women in long calico -skirts, and gay bonnets with flaunting feathers, riding like wretches; -some cantering, some trotting, some walking--crossing one another, -passing one another in a way that would have filled the soul of Fossard -with grief and amazement. I put on a skirt and my riding-cap, and -mounted a rough, rugged, besweated white-brown beast, that looked like -an old trunk more than any thing else, its coat standing literally on -end, like "quills upon the fretful porcupine," with heat and ill -condition. 'Tis vain attempting to ride like a Christian on these -heathen horses, which are neither broken, bitted, nor bridled properly; -and poor dumb _creturs_ have no more idea of what a horse ought to be, -or how a horse ought to behave, than so many cows. My hair, presently, -with the damp and the shaking, became perfectly straight. As I raised my -head, after putting it up under my cap, I beheld ---- earnestly -discoursing to D----. I asked for Tuesday's charger; and the school -having by degrees got empty, I managed to become a little better -acquainted with its ways and means. 'Tis a pretty little creature, but -'tis not half broken, is horribly ill ridden, and will never be good for -any thing--what a pity! At two o'clock I dismounted: ---- walked home -with us. Went in to see Mrs. ----: she seemed a good deal better, I -thought; sat some time with her. Mr. ---- has sent me back my book of -manuscript music: played and sang half through it. Came to my room; -tried on dresses for Lady Macbeth, and the Wonder, and dressed for -dinner. My father dined out. After dinner, went in to see Mrs. ----. Sat -some time with her mother, her chicks, and her young doctor of a cousin, -who is quite a civilised mortal. Poor Mrs. ---- was too ill to see me. -Came to the drawing-room, wrote journal, played and sang till tea-time. -After tea, read the history of Knickerbocker, whereat I was like to have -died, through the greate merrimente its rare and excellente pleasantries -did cause in me, insomuche that I lay on the sofa screaming, very much -like one lunaticke. - - -_Friday, 14th._ - -After breakfast, put out things for the theatre. Practised for an hour; -read and marked the Comedy of Errors, which is really great fun: perhaps -not funnier than Amphytrion, but the subject is more agreeable a good -deal. Read a canto in Dante; got ready for the riding-school; found ---- -and Mr. ---- in the drawing-room. As we were going out, the gentlemen -did not remain long. When they were gone, D---- and I set off for the -riding-school. We were hardly there before ---- made his appearance: I -wonder what he'll do for an _interest_, by the by, when we are gone. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The school was quite empty, so we had it all to ourselves. D---- mounted -up upon a detestable shambling brute, that wouldn't go _no how_. I had a -fancy for making my little fiery charger leap over the bar, and made Mr. ----- put it down for me. The beast had no idea of such saltatory -proceedings, and jerked himself over it three times most abominably. The -fourth time I pushed him at it, he jumped, and I jumped too, out of the -saddle on to my feet, having lighted down very comfortably at the -horse's head with the reins in my hand, neither hurt nor frightened. -This is the first time a horse ever had me off. I got on again, but -declined leaping any more. At a quarter to three we returned home. ----- walked with us. At the corner of Sansom Street, met young ----. -Heaven bless ---- from a challenge! Came home; dined: after dinner, went -in and sat with Mrs. ---- till coffee-time. Showed her my dresses, and -read her a scene or two of the Hunchback. Went to the theatre at -half-past five. Play, the Hunchback--the house was literally crammed. I -played very well, except being out in my town scene--an unwonted -occurrence with me. After the play, came home, supped, and read the -Wonder, which I thought wondrous dull. - - -_Saturday, 15th._ - -If I were to write a history of Philadelphia, according to the profound -spirit of investigation for which modern tourists are remarkable, I -should say that it was a peculiarity belonging to its climate, that -Saturday is invariably a wet day. At twelve, went to rehearsal, after -putting out things for the theatre. Had a long talk with Mr. ---- about -Pasta, the divine,--the only reality that ever I beheld that was as -fair, as grand, as glorious as an imaginary being. Shall I ever forget -that woman in Medea? I am thankful I have seen her. After rehearsal, -called at Mr. ----'s. Saw and carried off his head of me in Juliet. -Certainly the resemblance between myself and Mrs. Siddons must be very -strong; for this painting might almost have been taken for a copy of -Harlowe's sketch of my aunt in Lady Macbeth: 'tis very strange and -unaccountable. Came home; wrote journal: went and sat with Mrs. ---- -till dinner-time. After dinner, went and sat with her again till -coffee-time. Was introduced to Dr. ----, whom I liked very much. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Showed her my dress and my bracelets. Had a long discussion about the -precedence of one lady before another among the nobility of European -courts, whereat her republican pride seemed highly offended. If Clay -_did_, as Dr. ---- describes, pass before titled men, at a dinner in -England, with his hands in his breeches' pockets, it only follows thence -that he was really ill bred, and would be thought vulgar if he did it -unwittingly, and absurd if he did it intentionally. Went to the theatre -at half-past five. The house was wonderful, considering the weather: the -play was Fazio. I played pretty well: my dress was _splendid_. - - -_Sunday, 16th._ - -Had only time to swallow a mouthful of breakfast, and off to church; -where I heard about as thorough a cock and bull sermon as ever I hope to -be edified withal. What shameful nonsense the man talked! and all the -time pretending to tell us what God had done, what he was doing, and -what he intended to do next, as if he went up into heaven and saw what -was going on there, every five minutes. Came home; sat with Mrs. ---- -for a long time: I am very fond of her. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came to my own room, and studied Violante till dinner-time. How tiresome -this pointless prose is to batter into one's head. After dinner, went -and sat with Mrs. ---- till near tea-time, when I came to the -drawing-room. Presently, Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- called, also Dr. ----. I -went to my father's room to apprise him of this invasion of the Goths, -and found him very unwell, and labouring under a severe cold. He would -not come down; so D---- and I had to entertain these interesting youths -what fashion we best might. She gave them tea, and I gave them music, -till half-past ten, when they departed. - - -_Monday, 17th._ - -It poured with rain like the very mischief: a sort of continual -gushing down from the clouds, combining all the vehemence of a -thunder shower with all the pertinacity of one of our own November -drizzles--delightful! Went to rehearse Macbeth. Had a delightful palaver -with Mr. ----, who knows all the music that ever was writ, and all the -singers that ever sang, and worships Pasta as I do. Came home; put out -things for the theatre: dined at three. After dinner, went and sat with -Mrs. ---- till coffee-time. At half-past five, went to the theatre. In -spite of the rain, the house was very full; and in all my life I never -saw so large an assembly of people so perfectly and breathlessly still -as they were during several of our scenes. I played like a very clever -girl as I am; but it was about as much like Lady Macbeth as the Great -Mogul. My father laboured his part too much. - - -_Tuesday, 18th._ - -Received letters; one from dear ----, and one from ----. They did as -letters from England always do by me,--threw me into a perfect nervous -fever. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After breakfast, went to rehearse the Wonder. Called in on my way on Mr. -----, who is painting a portrait of my father. Saw one or two lovely -women's pictures. I wish he would go to England: I think it would answer -his purpose very well. At two, went to the riding-school: rode till -half-past three. The day was bitter cold, with a piercing wicked wind -riding through the grey sky. D---- and I walked to pay sundry calls. Met -----, whom we had not seen for two or three days--a most unusual -circumstance. He walked home with us. D---- and I dined _tête-à-tête_. -On returning home, I found a most lovely nosegay of real, delicious, -fragrant flowers. Sweet crimson buds of the faint-breathing monthly -rose; bright vivid dark green myrtle; the honey Daphne Odora, with its -clusters of pinky-white blossoms; and the delicate bells of the tall -white jasmine,--all sweet, and living, and fresh, as at midsummer: I was -blissful! After dinner, I went in to Mrs. ----. Came back to the -drawing-room. ----, who had taken the hint about our being alone in the -evening, came in. I began making him sing, and taught him the Leaf and -the Fountain: his voice sounded like when we were nearer home. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Presently Mr. ---- was announced. He was the author of the flowers. - - * * * * * - - -_Wednesday, 19th._ - -After breakfast, ---- called. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Went to rehearsal,--afterwards, to the riding-school. The school was -quite empty, and I alone. The boy brought me my horse, and I mounted by -means of a chair. As I was cantering along, amusing myself with -cogitations various, ---- came in. He stayed the whole time I rode. I -settled with him about riding to-morrow, and came home to dinner. After -dinner, went in to see Mrs. ----: Dr. ---- was there, who is a -remarkably nice man. She is a very delightful person, with a great deal -of intellect, and a wonderful quantity of fortitude and piety, and a -total absence of knowledge of the world, except through books. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Her children enchant me, and her care of them enchants me too. She is an -excellent person, with a heart overflowing with the very best affections -our nature is capable of, fulfilled, I think, to the uttermost. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Stayed with her till time to go to the theatre. The house was very full: -the play was the Wonder--my first time of acting Violante. My dress was -not finished till the very last moment,--and then, oh, horror! was so -small that I could not get into it. It had to be pinned upon me; and -thus bebundled, with the dread of cracking my bodice from top to bottom -every time I moved, and the utter impossibility of drawing my breath, -from the narrow dimensions into which it squeezed me, I went on to play -a new part. The consequence was that I acted infamously, and for the -first time in my life was horribly imperfect--out myself and putting -every body else out. Between every scene my unlucky gown had to be -pinned together; and in the laughing scene, it took the hint from my -admirable performance, and facetiously grinned in an ecstasy of -amusement till it was fairly open behind, displaying, I suppose, the -lacing of my stays, like so many teeth, to the admiring gaze of the -audience; for, as I was perfectly ignorant of the circumstance, with my -usual easy _nonchalance_, I persisted in turning my back to the folk, -in spite of all my father's pulls and pushes, which, as I did not -comprehend, I did not by any means second either. ---- was at the play, -also Dr. ----, also Henry Clay, who was received with cheers and -plaudits manifold. Came home in my dress, and went in to show it to Mrs. ----- and her mother, who were both in bed, but marvellously edified by -my appearance. - - -_Thursday, 20th._ - -The day was beautifully brilliant, clear, and cold--winter, but winter -in dazzling array of sunshine and crystal; blue skies, with light -feathery streaks of white clouds running through them; dry, crisp, hard -roads, with the delicate rime tipping all the ruts with sparkling -jewellery; and the waters fresh, and bright, and curling under the keen -breath of the arrow-like wind. After breakfast, ---- called. Walked out -with him to get a cap and whip for D----. The latter he insisted on -making her a present of, and a very pretty one indeed it was, with a -delicate ivory handle, and a charming persuading lash. Went in for a -short time to Mrs. ----, who entertained herself with letting all my -hair down about my ears, and pulling it all manner of ways. At twelve -habited, and helped to equip dear D----, who really looked exceedingly -nice in her jockey habiliments. Went to the school, where we found ---- -waiting for us. Mounted and set forth. We rode out to Laurel Hill. The -road was not very good, but no mud; and the warm gleesome sunlight fell -mellowly over the lovely undulations of the land, with their patches of -green cedar trees, and threadbare cloak of leafless woods, through which -the little birds were careering merrily, as the reviving sunshine came -glowingly down upon the world, like a warm blessing. Passed that bright -youth, Mr. ----, on the road, riding very like an ass on horseback. When -we reached Laurel Hill, we dismounted, tied up the horses, slacked their -girths, and walked first up to that interesting wooden monument, where I -inscribed my initials on our first ride thither. Afterwards, ---- and I -scrambled down the rocks to the river side, which D---- declined doing, -_'cause vy?_--she'd have had to climb up again. The water was like a -broad dazzling river of light, and had a beautiful effect, winding away -in brightness that the eye could scarce endure, between its banks, -which, contrasted by the sunny stream, and blue transparent sky, -appeared perfectly black. As I bent over a fine _bluff_ (as they here -call any mass of rock standing isolated), I espied below me a natural -rocky arch, overhanging the river, all glittering with pure long diamond -icicles. Thither ---- convoyed me, and broke off one of these wintry -gems for me. It measured about two feet long, and was as thick at the -root as my wrist. I never saw any thing so beautiful as these pendant -adornments of the silver-fingered ice god. Toiled up to the house again, -where, after brushing our habits, we remounted our chargers, and came -home. The river was most beautiful towards the bridge that they are -building: the unfinished piers of which have a very pretty effect, -almost resembling their very opposite, a ruin. The thin pale vapour of -the steam-engine, employed in some of the works, rising from the blue -water, and rolling its graceful waves far along the dark rocky shore, -had a lovely fairy-like look, which even drew forth the admiration of -----, who, from sundry expressions which have occasionally fallen from -him, I suspect to be rather well endowed with ideality. Reached home at -half-past four. My father dined out. It was past ----'s dinner-time; so -we invited him to stay and dine with us. After dinner, we fell somehow -or another into a profound theological discussion; ---- suddenly -proposing for my solution the mysterious doctrine of the inherent sin of -our nature, and its accompanying doom, death,--inherited from one man's -sin, and one man's punishment. I am not fond of discoursing upon these -subjects. 'Tis long since I have arrived at the conviction that the less -we suffer our thoughts to dwell upon what is vague and mysterious in our -most mysterious faith, and the more we confine our attention and our -efforts to that part of it which is practical and clear as the noon-day, -the better it will be for our minds here, and our souls hereafter. -Surely they are not wise who seek to penetrate the unfathomed counsels -of God, whilst their own natures, moral, mental, nay, even physical, -have depths beyond the sounding of their plummet line. ---- spoke in -perfect sincerity and simplicity of the difficulty he found in believing -that which was so "hard a saying;" and, as there was not the slightest -particle of levity or ridicule in his manner, I spoke as earnestly as I -felt and always feel upon this subject,--very strenuously advising him -not to strain his comprehension upon matters which baffle human -endeavour, which, after all our wanderings and weary explorings, still -lead us back to the wide boundless waste of uncertainty; concluding by -exhorting him to read his Bible, say his prayers, and go to church if -he could,--or, if he could not, at all events to be as good as he could. -While we were at tea, young ---- and Dr. ---- came in. They put me down -to the piano, and I continued to sing until past eleven o'clock, when, -somebody looking at a watch, there was a universal exclamation of -surprise, the piano was shut down, the candles put out, the gentlemen -vanished, and I came to bed. - - -WINTER. - - I saw him on his throne, far in the north, - Him ye call Winter, picturing him ever - An aged man, whose frame, with palsied shiver, - Bends o'er the fiery element, his foe. - But him I saw was a young god, whose brow - Was crown'd with jagged icicles, and forth - From his keen spirit-like eyes there shone a light, - Broad, glaring, and intensely cold and bright. - His breath, like sharp-edged arrows, pierced the air; - The naked earth crouch'd shuddering at his feet; - His finger on all murmuring waters sweet - Lay icily,--motion nor sound was there; - Nature seem'd frozen--dead; and still and slow - A winding-sheet fell o'er her features fair, - Flaky and white, from his wide wings of snow. - - -I am sorry to find that I must skip Friday and Saturday, thereby -omitting an account of an interesting ball at Mrs. ----'s, where the -floors were duly chalked, the music very good, the women very lovely, -and where I fell in again with my dear kinsman, whom I love devotedly, -and whom I jumped half across a quadrille to greet with extended hands, -which must greatly have edified the whole assembly. Likewise I must skip -a most interesting account of a second polemical conversation with ----; -in the course of which, to my great amazement, he managed to introduce a -most vehement abuse of Dr. ----, whose admiration of my singing appears -to have troubled him fully as much as the doctrine of original -sin,--together with many other things worthy of note, which shall now -die in oblivion, and the times return unenlightened to their graves. - - -_Sunday, 23d._ - -Was only dressed in time to swallow two mouthfuls of breakfast, and get -ready for church. ---- came to know at what time we would ride, and -walked with us to the church door. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After church, came home,--habited; went and sat with Mrs. ---- till -half-past one. The villanous servants did not think fit to announce the -horses till they had been at the door full half an hour, so that when we -started it was near two o'clock. D---- seemed quite at her ease upon her -gangling charger, and I had gotten up upon Mr. ----'s big horse, to see -what I could make of him. The day was beautifully bright and clear, with -a warm blessed sunshine causing the wintry world to smile. We had -proceeded more than halfway to Laurel Hill without event, when, driving -my heavy-shouldered brute at a bank, instead of lifting up his feet, he -thought fit to stumble, fall, and fling me very comfortably off upon the -mound. I sprang up neither hurt nor frightened, shook my habit, -tightened my girths, and mounted again; when we set off, much refreshed -by this little incident, which occasioned a world of mirth and many -saucy speeches from my companions to me. At Laurel Hill the master of -the house came bowing forth with the utmost courteousness to meet me, -expressing his profound sense of the honour I did him in deigning to -inhale the air around his abode, and his unspeakable anguish at having -been absent when I had so far condescended before. He was a -foreigner,--French or Italian, or _such like_,--which accounts for his -civility. Had the horses taken to the stable, and their girths -slackened. D---- kept the heights, and ---- and I ran, slipped, slid, -and scrambled down to the water's edge. The river was frozen over, not, -however, strongly enough to bear much, and every jutting rock was hung -with pure glittering icicles that shone like jewels in the bright -sunshine. Far down the river all was still and lonely, and bright, yet -wintry-looking. The flow of the water and its plashing music were still; -there was no breath of wind stirring the leafless boughs; the sunlight -came down, warm and dazzling upon the silent sparkling world, all clad -in its shimmering ice robe: the air was transparent and clear, and the -whole scene was perfectly lovely. Taming to re-ascend the rocks, I -called aloud to D----, and the distinctest loudest echo answered me. So -perfect was the reflection of the sound, that at first I thought some -one was mocking me. I ran up a scale as loud, and high, and rapid as I -could; and, from among the sunny fields, a voice repeated the threaded -notes as clearly, as rapidly, only more softly, with a distinctness that -was startling. I never heard an echo that repeated so much of what was -sung or said. I stood in perfect enchantment, exercising my voice, and -provoking the hidden voice of the air, who answered me with a far-off -tone, that seemed as though the mocking spirit fled along the hill tops, -repeating my notes with a sweet gleeful tone that filled me with -delight. Oh, what must savages think an echo is? How many many lovely -and wild imaginations are suggested by that which natural philosophers -analyse into mere conformations of earth and undulations of air! At -length we joined D----, and walked to the house, where presently -appeared the master of the mansion, with cakes, wine, cordial, -preserves, or, as Comus hath it, "a table covered with all manner of -deliciousness." I was at first a little puzzled by the epithet _cordial_ -applied to three goodly-looking _decanters_ full of rosy and golden -liquor, and which ---- informed me is the invariable refreshment -presented to visiters of both sexes who ride or drive up to Laurel Hill. -To satisfy my curiosity, I put my lips to some of it, which proved to be -no other than liqueur, an indifferent sort of noyau--that which soberest -folks in England take but a thimble-full of after dinner, by way of -_chasse-café_, and drunkenest folk would be ashamed to touch in the -morning. It seems that it is otherwise here; and, indeed, generally -speaking, Americans swallow much more of all sorts of spirituous -nauseousness than we do in our country. The men take brandy, in a way -that would astound people of any respectability in England, and in this, -as well as many other ways, contribute to assist the enervating effects -of their climate.[76] Our host waited himself most attentively upon us, -and refused all species of remuneration save thanks, which, indeed, he -said he owed me for so far honouring him as to stuff his cakes and -drink his wine. We mounted again, being refreshed, and, taking leave of -this pearl of innkeepers, continued our ride along the banks of the -Schuylkill, until we came to Manayunk, a manufacturing place, where they -create cottons, and which has the additional advantage of being most -lovelily situated upon the banks of the river, backed by rocky heights, -where the cedar bushes, with their rich dark tufts, and the fine bold -masses of grey granite, together with a hundred little water-courses now -hanging from every ridge they used to flow over in brilliant ice -pendants, had a most beautiful effect. It was getting late, however, and -we pushed on to the bridge; but, lo! when we reached it, it was under -repair and impassable. What was to be done? the sun had withdrawn his -warm rays from the heavens,--the lower earth was shadowy and dark,--a -rich orange light hung over the brow of the ridge of hills on the -opposite side of the river, whose current, rapid and strong, flowed -darkly between beautiful slabs of granite which lay in its path, and -round which the water hurried angrily. What was to be done? To turn back -was disheartening,--to go on for the chance of a bridge was also to run -the chance of being utterly benighted in paths we knew nothing of, and -on horses which were any thing but safe. However, my evident inclination -to the latter course prevailed with my companions. We crossed a narrow -bridge, and pursued a sort of tow-path between the canal and the river. -The glimmering daylight was fading fast from the sky, and the opposite -shores of the river were losing their distinctness of outline, when, -from between two beautiful bold masses of rock which overhung its -entrance, the wooden bridge appeared. I should like to have lingered in -this spot till nightfall, but this was by no means the bargain either -with my fellow-travellers or my horse. So on we went over the bridge, -and, turning to the left, pursued the river's side,--now close down to -its gushing fretful waters, hurrying from between the rocky impediments -of their path,--now high above its course, in the midst of woods growing -to the very edge of the precipitous bank, with rocky ridges rising again -above us, crowned with the black-looking tufts of the cedar, jagged with -icicles, and from which descended, at every ten yards, a trickling rill, -which, smoothed over by the glassy ice, rendered our horses' footing, -particularly in the twilight, very insecure. We were _in for it_; and -when that is the case, 'tis vain making lamentations or piteous -retrospections: I therefore pushed on, with as much care as I could of -Mr. ----'s tumble-down charger, whose headlong motion kept me in -agonies, leaving ---- to take care of dear D----, whose bones I feared -would ach for this adventure most bitterly. The road was perfectly -beautiful. Broad masses of shadowy clouds hung in the sky, and were -reflected in the waters, together with the pale delicate grey of -evening, and the last amber tinge of sunset. We did not reach -Philadelphia till it was perfectly dark. To add to my consternation, -too, when we asked ---- to dine with us, he said that he had an -engagement, for which I began to fear this ill-starred ride would have -kept him too late. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I came up to my own room, changed my clothes, and went in to see Mrs. -----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -She was completely overpowered with laudanum. Her head was declined upon -a chair. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -She looked very lovely, with her beautiful head bowed, and her dark -eyelashes lying on her wan cheeks. Her features were contracted with -suffering. I sat watching her with much heartfelt sadness and interest. -I was summoned away, however, to see some gentlemen who were in the -drawing-room, whither I adjourned, and where I found Mr. ---- and Dr. -----. I was stupid and sleepy, and the gentlemen had the charity not to -keep me up, or make me sing. - - -_Monday, 24th, Christmas-eve._ - -After breakfast, put out clothes for to-night. When I came down, found ----- in the drawing-room with my father: paid him his bill, and pottered -an immensity. Went to rehearsal,--afterwards paid all manner of cards -with poor dear D----, who puffed and panted through the streets in order -not to freeze me, which, however, she did not escape. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After dinner, went and sat with my poor invalid, whom, in spite of her -republicanism, I am greatly inclined to like and admire. Remained with -her till coffee-time. Went to the theatre: the play was the Merchant of -Venice,--my favourite part, Portia. The house was very full: I played -so-soish. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Tuesday, 25th, Christmas-day._ - -I wish you a merry Christmas, poor child! away from home and friends. -Truly, the curse of the old Scriptures has come upon me; my lovers and -my acquaintance are far off from me. After breakfast, practised for and -hour; went and saw Mrs. ----; drove out shopping; saw ---- walking with -my father. Came home and wrote journal: went out with D----; bought a -rocking-horse for Mrs. ----'s chicks, whose merry voices I shall miss -most horribly by and by. Dragged it in to them in the midst of their -dinner. Dined at three. After dinner, went and sat with her till -coffee-time. When I came into the drawing-room, found a beautiful -work-box sent me by that very youthful admirer of mine, Mr. ----. I was -a little annoyed at this, but still more so at my father's desiring me -to return it to him, which I know will be a terrible mortification to -him. Went to the theatre: the house was crammed with men, and very -noisy,--a Christmas audience. Play, Macbeth: I only played so-so. Oh, -me! these marks in the stream of time, over which it breaks as over a -dam, drawing our attention, which without them would even less often -note its rapid, rapid current! They do but become halting-posts for our -souls, round which gather the memories of days and hours escaped and -gone from us for ever.[77] - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Wednesday, 26th._ - -After breakfast, put out things for theatre. When I came down to the -drawing-room, I found a middle-aged gentleman of very respectable -appearance sitting with my father. He rose on my coming in, and, after -bowing to me, continued his discourse to my father thus:--"Yes, sir, -yes; you will find as I tell you, sir, the winter is our profitable -theatrical season, sir; so that if any thing should take you to England, -you can return again at the beginning of next fall." I modestly withdrew -to another end of the room, supposing they were engaged upon business. -But my curiosity was presently attracted by the continuation of his -discourse. "And recollect, sir, and this lady, your daughter, too, if -you please, that what I have said must not on any account be repeated -out of this room. I am myself going immediately to England, and from -thence direct to _Jerusalem_!" I stared. "There, sir, is my real name, -----: the card I sent up to you is not my real name. You see, sir, I am -an Irishman, that is to say, in fact, I am really a Jew. _I am one of -those of the tribe of Ephraim who refused to cross the Red Sea: we were -not to be humbugged by that damned fellow, Moses,--no, sir, we were -not!_" Here my heart jumped into my throat, and my eyes nearly out of my -head with fright and amazement. "Well," continued the poor madman, "I -suppose I may deliver this to the young lady herself;" giving me a small -parcel, which I took from him as if I thought it would explode and blow -me up. "And now, sir, farewell. Remember remember, my words,--in three -years, perhaps, but _certainly_ in ten, _He_ that will come _will come_, -and it's all up with the world, and the children of men!" This most -awful announcement was accompanied with a snap of his fingers, and a -demi-pirouette. He was then rushing out of the room, leaving his cloak -behind him. My father called him back to give it him. He bundled himself -into it, exclaimed, "God bless you both! God bless you both!--remember, -what I have said requires the profoundest secrecy, as you perceive," and -darted out of the room, leaving my father and myself with eyes and mouth -wide open, gaping in speechless astonishment. At last I bethought me of -opening the little packet the madman had left me. It was a small box, on -the cover of which was written, To Miss Kemble, with the compliments of -St. George. I then recollected, that some time past I had received some -verses, in which love and religion were very crazily blended, signed St. -George. But, as I am abundantly furnished with epistles of this sort, I -had flung them aside, merely concluding the writer to be gone a short -way from his wits. The box contained a most beautiful and curious -ornament, something like a Sévigné, highly wrought in gold and enamel, -and evidently very costly. I was more confounded than ever, and did not -recover from my amazement and fright for a long time. I went in to Mrs. ----- to tell her the event. Thence we began talking about young ----'s -box; and, upon her advice, I again spoke to my father and obtained his -leave not to send it back; so I indited him a thankful epistle. -Practised for a short time, and then went to the riding-school. It was -quite empty: I put on my cap and skirt, and was sitting, thinking of -many things, in the little dressing-room, when I heard the school-door -open, and Mr. ---- walked straight up to me. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Dr. ---- called to-day. I was quite glad to see him: he gave me all the -New York news, and brought with him a gentleman, a friend of his, who -nearly made me sick by very deliberately spitting upon the carpet. Mercy -on me! I thought I should have jumped off my chair, I was so disgusted. -Mr. ----, too, does this constantly. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After dinner, went and sat with Mrs. ----; was called away to see Mr. -----, whom I thanked for his present. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Went to the theatre at half-past five. The house was very fair, -considering the weather, which was very foul. Play, School for Scandal. -They none of them knew their parts, or remembered their -business--delightful people, indeed! I played only so-so. ---- supped -with us. He is a very gentlemanly nice person, and I am told he is -extremely amiable. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -He told me sundry steam-boat stories that made my blood curdle; such as, -a public brush, a public comb, and a public _tooth-brush_. Also, of a -gentleman who was using his own tooth-brush,--a man who was standing -near him said, "I'll trouble you for that article when you've done with -it." When he had done with it, the gentleman presented it to him, and on -receiving it again, immediately threw it into the river, to the infinite -amazement of the borrower, who only exclaimed, "Well, however, you're a -queer fellow."[78] - - -_Thursday, 27th._ - -After breakfast, went to rehearsal. Katharine and Petruchio. After -rehearsal, went to the riding-school. It was quite empty, except of Mr. -----, and Mr. ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came home: found a letter to me from that strange madman. On opening it, -it proved a mere envelope, containing a visiting-card with the name St. -George upon it. After dinner, wrote journal; went and sat with Mrs. ---- -till coffee-time. I have had a most dreadful side-ach all day. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At half-past five, went to the theatre. Play, Much Ado about Nothing; -farce, Katharine and Petruchio. - - * * * * * - -At the end I was so tired, and so overcome with the side-ach, that I lay -down on the floor perfectly done up. - - -_Friday, 28th._ - -After breakfast, ---- called. Settled to ride, if possible, to-morrow. I -would give the world for a good shaking. I'm dying of the blue devils: I -have no power to rouse myself. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -When ---- was gone, sat down to practise. Tried Mrs. Hemans's Messenger -Bird, but the words were too solemn and too sad: I sobbed instead of -singing, and was a little relieved. Went in to see Mrs. ----. She seemed -better; she was _en toilette_, in a delicate white wrapper, with her -fine hair twisted up round her classical head. She is a beautiful -person; she is better--an amiable, a sensible, and a pious one; I am -very deeply interested by her; I like her extremely. At half-past one, -went to the riding-school. I met there a daughter of old Lady ----'s, -who introduced herself to me, and asked leave to stay and see me ride, -which leave I gave her. The bay pony is, however, fairly ruined. A -little wretch not twelve years old had just been riding it: it had -fallen from all its paces, and went so lame that I gave up riding, and -sat disconsolately enough in the little dressing-closet, looking through -a window six inches square, at the blessed mild blue heavens, and -longing for wings, till my soul was like to faint. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After dinner, wrote journal. Went in and sat with Mrs. ----. By the by, -that worthy youth, Mr. ----, dined with us. I got rid of some of my -vapours by sundry hearty laughs at him. I am sorry to leave Philadelphia -on Mrs. ----'s account. I am growing to her. Oh, Lord! how soon, how -soon we do this!--how we do cling to every thing in spite of the -pitiless wrenches of time and chance! Her dear babies are delightful to -me; their laughing voices have power to excite and make me happy,--and -when they come dancing to meet me, my heart warms very fondly towards -them. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -She amuses me much by her intense anxiety that I should be married. -First, she wishes ---- would propose to me; then she thinks Mr. ----'s -estates in Cuba would be highly acceptable; in short, my single -blessedness seems greatly to annoy her, and I believe she attributes -every thing evil in life to that same. She seemed surprised, and a -little shocked, when I said I would accept death most thankfully in -preference to the happiest lot in life,--and so I would--I would. Yet -death----. 'Tis strange, that Messenger Bird threw more than a passing -gloom over me. If the dead do indeed behold those whom they have loved, -with loving eyes and fond remembrance, do not the sorrows, the -weariness, the toiling, the despairing of those dear ones rise even into -the abodes of peace, and wring the souls of those who thence look down -upon the earth, and see the woe and anguish suffered here? Or, if they -do not feel,--if, freed from this mortal coil, they forget all they have -suffered, all that we yet endure, oh! then what fourfold trash is human -love! what vain and miserable straws are all the deep, the dear, the -grasping affections twined in our hearts' fibres,--mingled with our -blood! How poor are all things,--how beggarly is life! Oh! to think that -while we yet are bowed in agony, and mourning over the dead,--while our -bereaved hearts are aching, and our straining eyes looking to that -heaven, beyond which we think they yet may hear our cries, they yet may -see our anguish, the dead, the loved, the mourned, nor see, nor hear; or -if they do, look down with cold and careless gaze upon the love that -lifts our very souls in desperate yearning towards them. Yet one of the -two must surely be: either the other life is like this, a life of pain, -though not like this, perhaps, a life of selfishness; or this earth, and -time, and all they hold, are a more hollow mockery than even I sometimes -dream they are. I will not think any more of it. We went to the theatre -at half-past five. Play, Hunchback; after it, Katharine and Petruchio. I -thought I should have died of the side-ach,--I was in perfect agony. The -people here are more civil and considerate than can be imagined. I sent, -yesterday evening, for some water-ice: the confectioner had none; when, -lo! to-night he brings me some he has made on purpose for me, which he -entreats my acceptance of. I admired a very pretty fan Mrs. ---- had in -her hand; and at the end of the play she had it sent to my -dressing-room;--and these sort of things are done by me, not once, but -ten times every day. Nothing can exceed the kindness and attention which -has encountered us every where since we have been in this country. I am -sure I am bound to remember America and Americans thankfully; for, -whatever I may think of their ways, manners, or peculiarities, to me -they have shown unmingled good will, and cordial real kindness. Remained -up, packing, till two o'clock. - - -TO ---- ----. - - Many a league of salt sea rolls - Between us, yet I think our souls, - Dear friend, are still as closely tied - As when we wander'd side by side, - Some seven years gone, in that fair land - Where I was born. As hand in hand - We lived the showery spring away, - And, when the sunny earth was gay - With all its blossoms, still together - We pass'd the pleasant summer weather, - We little thought the time would come, - When, from a trans-Atlantic home, - My voice should greet you lovingly - Across the deep dividing sea. - Oh, friend! my heart is sad: 'tis strange, - As I sit musing on the change - That has come o'er my fate, and cast - A longing look upon the past, - That pleasant time comes back again - So freshly to my heart and brain, - That I half think the things I see - Are but a dream, and I shall be - Lying beside you, when I wake, - Upon the lawn beneath the brake, - With the hazel copse behind my head, - And the new-mown fields before me spread. - - It is just twilight: that sweet time - Is short-lived in this radiant clime,-- - Where the bright day, and night more bright, - Upon the horizon's verge unite, - Nor leave those hours of ray serene, - In which we think of what has been: - And it is well; for here no eye - Turns to the distant days gone by: - - They have no legendary lore - Of deeds of glory done of yore,-- - No knightly marvel-haunted years, - The nursery tales of adult ears: - The busy present, bright to come, - Of all their thoughts make up the sum: - Little their little past they heed; - Therefore of twilight have no need. - - Yet wherefore write I thus? In the short span - Of narrow life doled out to every man, - Though he but reach the threshold of the track, - Where from youth's better path, strikes out the worse, - If he has breathed so long, nor once look'd back, - He has not borne life's load, nor known God's curse. - - And yet, but for that glance that o'er and o'er - Goes tearfully, where we shall go no more; - Courting the sunny spots, where, for a day, - Our bark has found a harbour on its way; - O! but for this, this power of conjuring - Hours, days, and years into the magic ring, - Bidding them yield the show of happiness, - To make our real misery seem less, - Life would be dreary. But these memories start, - Sometimes, unbidden on the mourner's heart; - Unwish'd, unwelcome, round his thoughts they cling,-- - In vain flung off, still dimly gathering, - Like melancholy ghosts, upon the path - Where he goes sadly, seeking only death. - - Then live again the forms of those who lie - Gather'd into the grave's dark mystery. - Vainly at reason's voice the phantom flies,-- - It comes, it still comes back to the fond eyes,-- - Still, still the yearning arms are spread to clasp - The blessing that escapes their baffled grasp: - Still the bewildering memory mutters "Gone!" - Still, still the clinging aching heart loves on. - Oh, bitter! that the lips on which we pour - Love's fondest kisses, feel the touch no more; - Oh, lonely! that the voice on which we call - In agony, breaks not its silent thrall; - Oh, fearful! that the eyes in which we gaze - With desperate hope through their thick filmy haze, - Return no living look to bless our sight! - Oh, God! that it were granted that one might - But once behold the secret of the grave,-- - That but one voice from the all-shrouding cave - Might speak,--that but one sleeper might emerge - From the deep death-sea's overwhelming surge! - Speak, speak from the grey coffins where ye lie - Fretting to dust your foul mortality! - Speak, from your homes of darkness and dismay,-- - To what new being do ye pass away?-- - O _do_ ye live, indeed?--speak, if on high - One atom springs whose doom is not to die!-- - Where have I wandered? - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Saturday, 29th._ - -When I came down to breakfast, found a very pretty diamond ring and some -Scotch rhymes, from Mr. ----, what we call a small return of favours. I -wish my hand wasn't so abominably ugly,--I hate to put a ring upon it. ----- called to see if we would ride; but D---- had too much to do; and, -after sitting pottering for some time, I sang him the Messenger Bird, -and sent him away. Went for a few moments to Mrs. ----, who seemed much -better. Went out to pay sundry bills and visits. Called at Mr. ----'s, -and spent half an hour most delightfully in his study. His picture of my -father is very like, and very agreeable. 'Tis too youthful by a good -deal; but the expression of the face is extremely good, and upon the -whole, except that stern-looking thing of Kearsley's, 'tis the likest -thing I have seen of him. We had a long discussion about the -stage,--the dramatic art; which, as Helen says, "is none," for, "no art -but taketh time and pains to learn." Now I am a living and breathing -witness that a person may be accounted a good actor, and to a certain -degree deserve the title, without time or pains of any sort being -expended upon the acquisition of the reputation. But, on other grounds, -acting has always appeared to me to be the very lowest of the arts, -admitting that it deserves to be classed among them at all, which I am -not sure it does. In the first place, it originates nothing; it lacks, -therefore, the grand faculty which all other arts possess--creation. An -actor is at the best but the filler-up of the outline designed by -another,--the expounder, as it were, of things which another has set -down; and a fine piece of acting is at best, in my opinion, a fine -translation. Moreover, it is not alone to charm the senses that the -nobler powers of mind were given to man; 'tis not alone to enchant the -eye, that the gorgeous pallet of the painter, and the fine chisel of the -statuary, have become, through heavenly inspiration, magical wands, -summoning to life images of loveliness, of majesty, and grace; 'tis not -alone to soothe the ear that music has possessed, as it were, certain -men with the spirit of sweet sounds; 'tis not alone to delight the -fancy, that the poet's great and glorious power was given him, by which, -as by a spell, he peoples all space, and all time, with undying -witnesses of his own existence; 'tis not alone to minister to our senses -that these most beautiful capabilities were sown in the soil of our -souls. But 'tis that, through them, all that is most refined, most -excellent and noble, in our mental and moral nature, may be led through -their loveliness, as through a glorious archway, to the source of all -beauty and all goodness. It is that by them our perceptions of truth may -be made more vivid, our love of loveliness increased, our intellect -refined and elevated, our nature softened, our memory stored with images -of brightness, which, like glorious reflections, falling again upon our -souls, may tend to keep alive in them the knowledge of, and the desire -after, what is true, and fair, and noble. But, that art may have this -effect, it must be to a certain degree enduring. It must not be a -transient vision, which fades and leaves but a recollection of what it -was, which will fade too. It must not be for an hour, a day, or a year, -but abiding, inasmuch as any thing earthly may abide, to charm the sense -and cheer the soul of generation after generation. And here it is that -the miserable deficiency of acting is most apparent. Whilst the poems, -the sculptures, of the old Grecian time yet remain to witness to these -latter ages the enduring life of truth and beauty; whilst the poets of -Rome, surviving the trophies of her thousand victories, are yet familiar -in our mouths as household words; whilst Dante, Boccaccio, that giant, -Michael Angelo, yet live, and breathe, and have their being amongst us, -through the rich legacy their genius has bequeathed to time; whilst the -wild music of Salvator Rosa, solemn and sublime as his painting, yet -rings in our ears, and the souls of Shakspeare, Milton, Raphael, and -Titian, are yet shedding into our souls divinest influences from the -very fountains of inspiration;--where are the pageants that, night after -night, during the best era of dramatic excellence, riveted the gaze of -thousands, and drew forth their acclamations?--gone, like rosy sunset -clouds;--fair painted vapours, lovely to the sight, but vanishing as -dreams, leaving no trace in heaven, no token of their ever having been -there. Where are the labours of Garrick, of Macklin, of Cooke, of -Kemble, of Mrs. Siddons?--chronicled in the dim memories of some few of -their surviving spectators; who speak of them with an enthusiasm which -we, who never saw them, fancy the offspring of that feeling which makes -the old look back to the time of their youth as the only days when the -sun knew how to shine. What have these great actors left, either to -delight the sense or elevate the soul, but barren names, unwedded to a -single lasting evidence of greatness! If, then, acting be alike without -the creating power and the enduring property, which are at once the -highest faculty of art, and its most beneficial purpose, what becomes of -it when ranked with efforts displaying both in the highest degree? To me -it seems no art,[79] but merely a highly rational, interesting, and -exciting amusement; and I think men may as well, much better, perhaps, -spend three hours in a theatre than in a billiard or bar-room,--and this -is the extent of my approbation and admiration of my art. Called on Mrs. -----, whom I like very much. Went to the riding-school to try a new -horse, which was ten hands high, all covered with shaggy angry-looking -hair, with a donkey's head, and cart-horse legs, with one of which he -peached. ---- came to see me mount. Dr. ----'s grey horse was standing -in the school with a man's saddle on. I persuaded ---- to put me on it, -and I then sent him away. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -When he was gone, rode for about an hour without any pommel, and found I -managed it famously. I slipped my foot out of the stirrup in order to -see if I could sit without both; but this proved rather too much, for I -presently slid very comfortably off. On my way home, met young ----, -with his head so completely in the clouds, that I had bowed to him, and -was driving on, when he just perceived me, and fell into a confusion of -bows, which he continued long after the coach had passed him. Found the -usual token of his having been at our house--a most beautiful nosegay; -roses, hyacinths, and myrtle. While I was arranging them, I heard a -tremendous shriek of laughter in the hall, which was followed by the -appearance of Mr. ----. After sitting with him some time, I went and sat -with Mrs. ----. The amiable Chargé d'Affaires dined with us. After -dinner, went to see Mrs. ----; but she was too unwell to receive me. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Saw Dr. ----, who expressed manifold deplorings at my departure: gave -him the words of the Sisters. At half-past five, went to the theatre: -play, the Wonder. I acted only so-so: my father was a _leetle dans les -vignes du Seigneur_. When the play was over, the folk called for us, and -we went on: he made them a neat speech, and I nothing but a cross face -and three courtesies. How I do hate this! 'Tis quite enough to exhibit -myself to a gaping crowd, when my profession requires that I should do -so in a feigned semblance; but to come bobbing and genuflexioning on, as -me myself, to be clapped and shouted at, and say, "Thank ye kindly," is -odious. After the play, dressed, and off to Mrs. ----, with my father -and Mr. ----. On our way thither, the spring of our coach broke, and we -had to go halting along for half an hour, with a graceful inclination -towards the pavement on one side, which was very pleasant. There was -quite a brilliant party at Mrs. ----'s. Told Mr. ---- that I had thrown -his horse down. Saw and spoke to all Philadelphia. ---- was there, and -actually sitting still. Fell in love with Mr. ----'s youngest son, who -is a youth of some ten years old, and hovers round me with a plenitude -of silent admiration and astonishment that is most delightful. Miss -----, who is a very pretty creature (in fact, all American women are -pretty creatures, I never saw any prettier), sang Dalla Gioga e del -Piacer. She sings very well, but pronounces Italian very Americanly, -which is a pity. I don't know any thing so necessary to good singing as -a good Italian pronunciation, _except_ perhaps a good voice, and a good -school. They made me sing, and I sang them the galley song, after which -Miss ---- warbled again. They were surrounding me again, with a shower -of "pray do's," when perceiving D---- making towards me, with my boa on -her arm, I sat down and sang them, "Yes, aunt, I am ready to go," to -their infinite edification. I wonder if Mrs. ---- would object to this; -I should think not, as ---- is not here to catch it again. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came home, and supped. I had eaten nothing since four o'clock, and was -famished; for I do not like stewed oysters and terrapins, which are the -refreshments invariably handed round at an American evening party. Did -not get to bed till two o'clock. How beautifully bright the heavens are -here! The sky has an earnest colour that is lovely and solemn to look -at; and the moon, instead of being "the maiden with white fire laden," -has a rich, mellow, golden light, than which nothing can be more -beautiful. The stars, too, are more vivid than in our skies, and there -is a variety of hues in their light which I never observed before,--some -reddish, some violet, and again others of the palest silver. - - -_Sunday, 30th._ - -After breakfast, Mr. ---- called, also ----, to know at what time we -would ride. I fixed at twelve, thereby calculating that we should escape -the people coming out from church. Went and sat a few minutes with Mrs. -----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Spent my Sunday morning on my knees, indeed, but packing, not praying. -The horses did not come till half-past twelve; so that, instead of -avoiding, we encountered the pious multitude. I'm sure when we mounted -there were not less than a hundred and fifty beholders round the Mansion -House. Rode out to Laurel Hill. The cross road was muddy, so we took the -turnpike, which was clean and short, and would have been pleasant enough -but for my brute of a horse. Upon my word, these American horses are -most unsafe to ride. I never mount one but I recommend myself to the -care of Heaven, for I expect to have every bone in my body broken before -I dismount again. At Laurel Hill we lunched. While D---- put up her -hair, ---- and I ran down to the water side. The ice had melted from the -river, in whose still waters the shores, and trees, and bridge lay -mirrored with beautiful and fairy-like distinctness. The long icicles -under the rocky brow beneath which we stood had not melted away, though -the warm sun was shining brilliantly on them, and making the granite -slab on which we stood sparkle like a pavement of diamonds. I called to -the echo, and sang to it scales up, and scales down, and every manner of -musical discourse I could think of, during which interesting amusement I -as nearly as possible slipped from my footing into the river, which -caused both ---- and myself to gulp. We left our pleasant sunny stand at -last, to rejoin D---- and the lunch, and, having eaten and drunken, we -remounted and proceeded on to Manayunk, under the bright, warm, blessed -sunshine, which came down like a still shining shower upon the earth. -The beautiful little water-courses had all broken from their diamond -chains, and came dancing and singing down the hills, between the cedar -bushes, and the masses of grey granite, like merry children laughing as -they run. After crossing the bridge at Flat Rock, I took the van, riding -by myself much faster than my companions, whom I left to entertain each -other. Several times, as I looked down at the delicious fresh water, all -rosy with the rosy light of the clouds, and gushing round the masses of -rock that intercepted their channel, I longed to jump off my horse, and -go down among their shallow brilliant eddies. The whole land was mellow -with warm sunset, the sky soft, and bright, and golden, like a dream. I -stopped for a long time opposite the Wissihiccon creek. The stone -bridge, with its grey arch, mingled with the rough blocks of rock on -which it rested, the sheet of foaming water falling like a curtain of -gold over the dam among the dark stones below, on whose brown sides the -ruddy sunlight and glittering water fell like splinters of light. The -thick, bright, rich tufted cedars basking in the warm amber glow, the -picturesque mill, the smooth open field along whose side the river -waters, after receiving this child of the mountains into their bosom, -wound deep, and bright, and still, the whole radiant with the softest -light I ever beheld, formed a most enchanting and serene subject of -contemplation. Further on, I stopped again, to look at a most beautiful -mass of icicles, formed by some water falling from a large wooden -conduit which belonged to a mill. The long thick masses of silvery white -clung in downward pyramids together, and on the ground, great round -balls of purest transparent ice, like enormous crystal grapes, lay -clustered upon each other. I waited on a little sunny knoll above this -glittering fairy work, till my companions joined me, when, leaving D---- -to pursue the main road, ---- and I turned off, and explored a pretty -ravine, down which another mountain stream, half free wild water, half -shimmering diamond ice, sparkled in the sunset. We reached Philadelphia -at half-past four, and had again to canter down Chestnut Street just as -the folks were all coming from church, which caused no little staring, -and turning of heads. My father asked ---- to dine with us, but he -refused. Mr. ---- dined with us. After dinner, went in to pay my last -visit to my poor sick friend. I sat with her until summoned to see some -gentlemen in the drawing-room. It pained me to part from her; for -though she exerted herself bravely, she was very much overcome. I fear -she will miss me, poor thing; I had become very much attached to her. I -went in to bid Mrs. ---- good-by. ---- was not gone to bed; I took her -in my arms and kissed her, saying I should not see her for a long time -again. The tears came into her baby eyes, and she said very sadly, "God -bless you, Fanny." How curious a train of associations that word -produced in me! It brought ----, and Lord ----, and that beautiful -creature his child, before my very eyes. But her father had told little -Lady ---- to say that,--I am sure he did; now this little creature -blessed me out of her own heart. A child's blessing is a holy thing. -Came into the drawing-room. Found Dr. ----, young Mr. ----, and Mr. ---- -there. Presently, Mr. ---- came in, with Baron ----, a man with a thick -head, thick white hair, that stood out round it like a silver halo, and -gold ear-rings. I sang to them till past ten o'clock, and then came to -my own room, where I remained up packing and pottering until past two. - - -_Monday, 31st._ - -The river being yet open, thank Heaven, we arose at half-past four -o'clock. Dressed sans dawdling for once, and came down. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -D---- and I were bundled into a coach, and rumbled and tumbled over the -stones, through the blackness of darkness down to the steam-boat. ---- -was waiting for us, and convoyed us safely to the cabin, where I laid -myself down, and slept till breakfast-time. My father, Captain ----, Mr. -----, and Baron ----, sat themselves down most comfortably to breakfast, -leaving us entirely to the charge and care of ----, who fulfilled his -trust with infinite zeal. 'Tis curious; there was a man on board whom I -have now seen every time I have been going to or from New York to -Philadelphia, whose appearance was in itself very remarkable, and the -subsequent account I received of him perhaps increased the sort of -impression it made upon me. He was a man of about from thirty to -thirty-five, _I guess_, standing about five feet ten, with a great -appearance of strength and activity. His face was that of a foreigner, -the features were remarkably well cut, and the piercing black eyes, dark -hair, and brown complexion, gave a Spanish character to his -countenance. There was a sort of familiar would-be gentlemanly manner in -his deportment and address, and a species of slang gentility in his -carriage and conversation, that gave me a curiosity to ascertain what on -earth he could be. After breakfast, walked up and down deck with ----. ----- was on board. I am happy to hear he is thriving: I love all my -fellow-passengers; and when I see one of them, my heart warms towards -them, as to a bit of the dear old land left behind. After about an -hour's steaming, we disembarked to cross the narrow neck of land which -divides the Delaware from the Chesapeake. Here we got into a coach -holding some twelve of us, to be conveyed over the rail-road by one of -Stevenson's engines. Neither the road nor the conveyances are comparable -to those of the Liverpool and Manchester rail-way; and instead of those -luxurious roomy coaches, which form the merit of the Liverpool train, we -were squeezy and uncomfortable to a degree. The country along this slip -of land is flat and very uninteresting, clothed with threadbare young -woods, whose thin spare skeletons, without their leafy mantles, looked -excessively miserable. The distance from the Delaware to Frenchtown, on -the Elk, where we were again to take water, is about sixteen miles, -which we did in an hour. The first part of the road lies in Delaware, -the latter in Maryland. The Elk, which in this world of huge waters is -considered but a paltry ditch, but which in our country would be thought -a very decent-sized river, was, a few days ago, frozen up, thereby -putting a stop to the steam-boat travelling. But, fortunately for us, it -was open to-day, and presently we beheld the steamer coming puffing up -to take us from the pier. This boat--the Charles Carroll--is one of the -finest they have. 'Tis neither so swift nor so large, I think, as some -of the North river boats, but it is a beautiful vessel, roomy and -comfortable in its arrangements. I went below for a few minutes, but -found, as usual, the atmosphere of the cabin perfectly intolerable. The -ladies' cabin, in winter, on board one of these large steamers, is a -right curious sight. 'Tis generally crammed to suffocation with women, -_strewn_ in every direction. The greater number cuddle round a stove, -the heat of which alone would make the atmosphere unbreathable. Others -sit lazily in a species of rocking-chair,--which is found wherever -Americans sit down,--cradling themselves backwards and forwards, with a -lazy, lounging, sleepy air, that makes me long to make them get up and -walk. Others again manage, even upon fresh water, to be very sick. -There are generally a dozen young human beings, some naughty, sick, and -squalling, others happy, romping, and riotous; and what with the -vibratory motion of the rocking-chairs and their contents, the women's -shrill jabber, the children's shriller wailing and shouting, the heat -and closeness of the air, a ladies' cabin on board an American -steam-boat is one of the most overpowering things to sense and soul that -can well be imagined. There was a poor sick woman with three children, -among our company, two of which were noisy unruly boys, of from eight to -ten years old. One of them set up a howl as soon as he came on board, -which he prolonged, to our utter dismay, for upwards of half an hour -sans intermission, except to draw breath. I bore it as long as I could; -but threats, entreaties, and bribes having been resorted to in vain, by -all the women in the cabin, to silence him, I at length very composedly -took him up in my arms, and deposited him on his back in one of the -upper berths; whereupon his brother flew at his mother, kicking, -thumping, screaming, and yelling. The cabin was in an uproar; the little -wretch I held in my arms struggled like a young giant, and though I -succeeded in lodging him upon the upper shelf, presently slid down from -it like an eel. However, this effort had a salutary effect, for it -obtained silence,--the crying gave way to terror, which produced -silence, of which I availed myself to sleep till dinner-time. At dinner, ----- and Mr. ---- took charge of D---- and me, who, seeing that we were -to get no dinner till six o'clock, thought fit to eat some lunch. The -strange dark man was sitting opposite us, and discoursing away to his -neighbours in a strain and tone in which shrewdness and swagger, and -vulgarity and a sort of braggart gallantry, were curiously jumbled. From -his conversation, it was evident that he was a seafaring man. He spoke -of having been a midshipman on board an American frigate. The question -they were debating was that of superstitious prejudice, involving belief -in lucky and unlucky days, witches, ghosts, etc. The stranger professed -perfect faith in all, and added sundry experiences of his own, at the -same time observing, that with regard to sailors, the strong prejudice -they have against sailing on certain days often creates the very ill -luck they apprehend; for if any danger should occur, 'tis all attributed -to evil influences against which they have no power, and they are at -once deprived of half their energy in labour, and half their courage in -peril. When dinner was over, I pointed out this strange man to my -father, asking him if he had any idea who he was. "I am told," was his -reply, "that he is but just returned from New York, where he has been -tried for piracy." This accounted for every thing,--dare-devil look and -language, seafaring adventures, and superstitious creed. It is a -pleasant mode of travelling that throws one into contact with such -company. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Touching pirates, Baltimore, I was told (I know not how truly) is famous -for them. They have small schooners there of a particularly light build, -and raking masts, which are the prettiest craft in the world to look at, -and the swiftest that sail sea. The Baltimore clippers are proverbial -for their elegance and fleetness: they are like greyhounds on the water. -These, I was told, were frequently owned by gentlemen of rather an -ambiguous character, something between pirate, smuggler, and wrecker, -perhaps a judicious compound of all three. Their trade is chiefly, I -believe, with and about the West India islands. I looked at my -Spanish-faced friend with redoubled curiosity: he was the very man for a -pirate. We reached Baltimore at about half-past four. The Chesapeake -bay, like the Delaware river, appeared to me admirable only as an -immense sheet of water. At some parts that we passed, it was six, at -others, ten, at others, thirteen miles across. The shores were flat and -uninteresting on one side, but on the other occasionally very -picturesque and beautiful, rising in red-looking cliffs from the water's -edge, and crowned with beautiful green tufts of wood--cedar, I suppose, -for nothing else is green at this time. The curvings of the shore, too, -are very pretty; but, owing to the enormous width of the water, my -imperfect vision could hardly discern the peculiar features of the land. -The day was more lovely than a fine day in early September, in -England,--bright, soft and sunny, with the blue in the sky of the -delicate colour one sees in the Sèvres porcelain. As we entered the -Patapsco, and neared Baltimore, North Point and Fort M'Henry were -pointed out to me. My spirits always sink when I come to a strange -place; and as we came along the wharf sides, under the red dingy-looking -warehouses, between which the water ran in narrow dark-looking canals, I -felt terribly gloomy. We drove up to Barnham's, the best house in the -town; and, having found out where to lay my head, I had my fill of -crying.[80] After dinner, went and lay down; slept profoundly till nine -o'clock. On my return to the drawing-room, found ---- there, and Mr. -----, the man who owns the Front Street theatre, but who it seems is -only just out of gaol, and has neither actors nor scenes to get up a -play withal. While he was here, came missives from the proprietors of -the Holliday Street theatre, to inform my father that it was lighted up, -and requesting him to come and look at it. This was awkward rather. When -Mr. ---- was gone, I came to my room, where I remained without a fire, -cold without and disconsolate within, till past one o'clock. I did not -know it was New-Year's eve; and so the waters carried me over this other -dam without my looking back at what was past, or forward at what is to -come: and why should I?--surely "the thing that hath been, it is that -which shall be; and that which is done, is that which shall be done; and -there is no new thing under the sun:" sorrow and joy, hoping and -fearing, pain and pleasure, laughing and weeping, striving and -yielding,--they will all come again and again, and all things will be -the same, till all things cease. - - -_Tuesday, January, 1st_, } - _New-Year's Day_, } 1833. - -There it lies in its cradle! its pure forehead yet unstained by sin, -unfurrowed by care; and not an hour shall have passed without the traces -of both becoming visible. And where is the mother gone? where is the -fulfilled year?--Gone sorrowing to join the crowd of ancestors, who -witness each against me for the unthrift waste I have made of the rich -legacies they one by one have bestowed on me. Oh, new-born year! ere -half thy hours are spent, how often will my weary spirit have wished -them fleeter wings than even those they wear! What secrets are there -folded in thy breast,--what undreamt-of chances,--what strange -befallings,--what unforeseen sorrows,--what unexpected joys! Perhaps, -in the mysterious accomplishments with which thou art laden, my death -may be numbered!--perhaps, ere thy course be duly run, the death of Time -may be decreed! Oh! this life, and all things in it, remind me of the -thin veils of spiders' webs which divided Desire from his aim, and -which, though light and transparent, were so numerous, that to lift them -all away was hopeless. After breakfast, began writing journal. 'Twas not -until dating it that I discovered it was New-year's day. When I did so, -and looked at my strange surroundings, at the gloomy wintry sky, and -thought of the heathenish disregard with which I was passing over, in -this far land, the season of home-gathering and congregating of kin in -my own country, I could not refrain from crying bitterly. In spite of -the pouring rain, and Mr. ----'s hints to keep us away, my father, who -wished to ascertain the truth of the reports with regard to the state of -his theatre, set forward thither with me. We found a very large handsome -house, larger, I think, than the Park, but dirty, dilapidated, and -looking as if there had been eleven executions in it that morning. No -actors, scarcely any scenes,--in short, such a state of things as -rendered it totally impossible for us to think of acting there. Came -home; sat diligently crying the whole morning. The afternoon cleared up, -and became soft and sunny. My father insisted on my taking a walk; so I -bonneted and set out with him. What I saw of the town appeared to me -extremely like the outskirts of Birmingham or Manchester. Bright-red -brick houses, in rows of three and five, with interesting gaps of -gravel-pits, patches of meadow, and open spaces between, which give it -an untidy straggling appearance. They are building in every direction, -however, and in less than two years, these little pauses being filled -up, Baltimore will be a very considerable place; for it covers, in its -present state, a large extent of ground, and contains a vast population. -Immediately after dinner, our host made his entrée with a piano-forte. I -had suggested to Mr. ---- that I should be glad of one; and here it -came. I had asked him to return in the evening, and was glad of the -piano, for it helps the time away. At six o'clock, the managers of the -Holliday Street theatre made their appearance; and my father stating -that Mr. ---- was literally unable to fulfil his engagement with us, -entered into arrangements with them, during which I sat up at a -tremendously high window, looking at the beautiful serious skies, and -radiant moon, and listening to a tolerable band playing sundry of -Rossini's airs. When these men had departed, ---- came in. I sang and -made him sing till tea-time. After that, he entertained us with a very -long, but not very clear, account of the various processes of making, -polishing, etc. steel, as practised in his manufactory. His account of -their hard dealings with the poorer manufacturers was dreadful; and he -himself spoke with horror of it, saying, "Oh, they are so miserably -ground, poor wretches, they cannot be said to live,--they barely exist." -When I remonstrated with him upon the wickedness of such proceedings, he -replied, "We are compelled to do it in self-defence: if we did not use -the same means as other manufacturers, we should presently be -undersold." And this is the game playing all over England at this -moment, in every department of her commerce and manufacture,--this cruel -oppression of the poor, this forcing them by a league against them, as -it were, to toil in bitterness for their scanty daily bread, while those -who thus inhumanly depreciate their labour, and wring their hard -earnings from their starving grasp, grow wealthy on their plunder. Are -not these the things for which God has said he will avenge? Is his -abomination of the false balance, and the stinted measure, and the -unjust reckoning, less than in the days when he said he would visit the -oppressor of the poor, and plead the cause of the widow and fatherless? -Are not these the things that make a nation rotten at core, and ripe for -decay? Are not these the things for which retribution is laid up, and -fourfold restitution will be demanded?--'Tis awful to think of. From -this the conversation grew to the means of obtaining interest upon money -in this country, which the gentlemen discussed together for a length of -time. I listened to them with many sad thoughts. How intent they seemed -in their discourse, how much they appeared to value every slightest -advantage of place or circumstance which enabled them to draw a greater -profit from their capital; how eagerly, how earnestly, they seemed -absorbed in these calculations. I do not know when I have been so -forcibly struck with the worthlessness of money, and the strange -delusion under which all men seem to be labouring, giving up their -lives, as they do, to the hunting of wealth. Are these the cares that -should engross the faculties of immortal souls, and rational thinking -creatures? That we must live, I know, and that money is necessary to -live, I know; but that our glorious capacities of soul, mind, and body, -the fitting exercise of which alone, in itself, is happiness, should -thus be chained down to the altar horns of Mammon, is what I never will -believe wise, right, or fitting. I at length spoke, for my heart was -burning within me, and burst into an eloquent lamentation on the folly -and misery of which the world was guilty in following this base worship -as it does. But when I said that I was convinced happiness might and did -exist most blessedly upon half the means which men spent their lives in -scraping together, my father laughed, and said I was the last person in -the world who could live on little, or be content with the mediocrity I -vaunted. I looked at my satin gown, and held my tongue, but still I was -not convinced. We returned to our music till ten o'clock, when they had -some supper, after which they drank a happy new year to England:--poor -old England, God bless it! At about twelve o'clock, ---- departed. Sat -up a long time at the window, listening to some serenading, which, in -the moonlight, sounded pleasantly enough.[81] - - -_Sunday, 6th._ - -At about half-past ten, Mr. ---- called for us, and we walked up to the -cathedral, which is a large unfinished stone building, standing on the -brow of a hill, which is to be the fashionable quarter of the town, and -where there are already some very nice-looking houses. The interior of -the church is large and handsome, and has more the look of a church than -any thing I have been inside of in this country yet. 'Tis full eight -years since I was in a Catholic church; and the sensation with which I -approached the high altar, with its golden crucifix, its marble -entablatures, and its glimmering starry lights, savoured fully as much -of sadness as devotion. I have not been in a Catholic place of worship -since I was at school. How well I remember the beautiful music of the -military mass, the pageants and processions of the feast days at high -mass, and the evening service, not vespers, but the Salut.[82] They sang -that exquisitely mournful and beautiful _Et incarnatus est_, of -Haydn's, which made my blood all run backwards. One thing disgusted me -dreadfully, though the priests who were officiating never passed or -approached the altar without bending the knee to it, they kept spitting -all over the carpet that surrounded and covered the steps to it, -interrupting themselves in the middle of the service to do so, without -the slightest hesitation. We had a very indifferent sermon: the service -was of course in Latin. When it was over, Mr. ---- insisted on showing -me some paintings which hung on either side the grand entrance. These -were a couple of pictures by Paulin Guerin; the one representing the -descent from the cross, the other, the burying of the dead, by St. -Charles, in the Holy Land. I do not understand much about bad pictures, -but I know good ones when I see them; and I think these were not such. -There was no beauty of imagination or poetical conception whatever in -them, and there appeared to me to be manifold glaring faults in the -execution. I could have sworn to their being French pictures. Was -introduced to several people, coming out of church. A little way beyond -the cathedral stands Washington's monument,--a _neat and appropriate_ -pillar,--which, together with a smaller one erected at the head of our -street, to the memory of the North Point heroes, has given Baltimore the -appellation of the monumental city, which never could have befallen it -in any other country under heaven but this. At eight o'clock, we went to -Mrs. ----'s. They are all in deep mourning, and the circle was very -small. They are most agreeable pleasant people, with a peculiar -gentleness of manner, like very high breeding, which I have often -observed in Catholics of the better orders. Their conversation appeared -to me totally divested of the disagreeable accent which seems almost -universal in this country. Mrs. ---- talked to me about my aunt -Whitelock, and what a charming actress she was, and what an enchanting -thrilling voice she had. I spent a delightful evening. Before we went -away, Mr. ---- showed us a picture of Lady ----, by Lawrence. It looked -quite refreshing, with its lovely dark curls unfrizzed, and the form of -the neck and arms undisguised by the hideousness of modern fashions. Saw -a very good likeness, too, of the Duke of ----. 'Twas very like him, -though many years younger. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -By the by, somebody said that ---- had turned Roman Catholic, and very -devout. Some of the Marys and Magdalens of the old Italian painters are -very converting pictures, with their tearful melancholy eyes, and -golden, glorious, billowy hair. Mrs. ---- amused me very much by her -account of the slaves on their estates, whom, she said, she found the -best and most faithful servants in the world. Being born upon the land, -there exists among them something of the old spirit of clanship, and -"our house," "our family," are the terms by which they designate their -owners. In the south, there are no servants but blacks; for the greater -proportion of domestics being slaves, all species of servitude whatever -is looked upon as a degradation; and the slaves themselves entertain the -very highest contempt for white servants, whom they designate as "poor -white trash." - - -_Monday, 7th._ - -Young ---- called, and stayed about an hour with us. At half-past five, -took coffee, and off to the theatre. The play was Romeo and Juliet; the -house was extremely full: they are a delightful audience. My Romeo had -gotten on a pair of trunk breeches, that looked as if he had borrowed -them from some worthy Dutchman of a hundred years ago. Had he worn them -in New York, I could have understood it as a compliment to the ancestry -of that good city; but here, to adopt such a costume in Romeo, was -really perfectly unaccountable. They were of a most unhappy choice of -colours, too,--dull, heavy-looking blue cloth, and offensive crimson -satin, all be-puckered, and be-plaited, and be-puffed, till the young -man looked like a magical figure growing out of a monstrous strange -coloured-melon, beneath which descended his unfortunate legs, thrust -into a pair of red slippers, for all the world like Grimaldi's legs _en -costume_ for clown. The play went off pretty smoothly, except that they -broke one man's collar-bone, and nearly dislocated a woman's shoulder by -flinging the scenery about. My bed was not made in time, and when the -scene drew, half a dozen carpenters in patched trowsers and tattered -shirt-sleeves were discovered smoothing down my pillows, and adjusting -my draperies. The last scene is too good not to be given verbatim:-- - - - ROMEO. Rise, rise, my Juliet, - And from this cave of death, this house of horror, - Quick let me snatch thee to thy Romeo's arms. - - -Here he pounced upon me, plucked me up in his arms like an uncomfortable -bundle, and staggered down the stage with me. - - - JULIET. (_aside._) Oh, you've got me up horridly!--that'll never - do; let me down, pray let me down. - - ROMEO. There, breathe a vital spirit on thy lips, - And call thee back, my soul, to life and love! - - JULIET. (_aside._) Pray put me down; you'll certainly throw me down - if you don't set me on the ground directly. - - -In the midst of "cruel cursed fate," his dagger fell out of his dress; -I, embracing him tenderly, crammed it back again, because I knew I -should want it at the end. - - - ROMEO. Tear not our heart-strings thus! They crack! they - break!--Juliet! Juliet! (_dies._) - - JULIET. (_to corpse._) Am I smothering you? - - CORPSE. (_to Juliet._) Not at all; could you be so kind, do you - think, as to put my wig on again for me?--it has fallen off. - - JULIET. (_to corpse._) I'm afraid I can't, but I'll throw my - muslin veil over it. You've broken the phial, haven't you? - - (_Corpse nodded._) - - JULIET. (_to corpse._) Where's your dagger? - - CORPSE. (_to Juliet._) 'Pon my soul, I don't know. - - -_Sunday, 13th._ - -By half-past ten we were packed in what in this country is termed an -_exclusive extra_, _i. e._ a stage-coach to ourselves, and progressing -towards Washington. The coach was comfortable enough, and the country, -for the first twelve or fifteen miles, owing to the abominable account I -had heard of it from every body, disappointed me rather agreeably. It -was by no means so dreary or desolate as I had been led to expect. There -was considerable variety in its outline, and the quantity of cedar -thickets scattered over it took away from the comfortless threadbare -look of the wintry woods. Threadbare, indeed, the trees can scarce be -called; for the leaves of the black oak, instead of falling as they -fade, remain upon the branches, and give the trees more the effect of -being lightning-struck, or accidentally blasted, than withered by the -fair course of the seasons. I think the effect is more disagreeable than -that of absolutely bare leafless boughs. When near, the trees look -singularly deplorable and untidy, although at the distance, the -red-brown of the faded oaks mingling with the bright, vivid, green -cedars, and here and there a silver-barked buttonwood tree raising its -white delicate branches from among them, produce a very agreeable and -harmonious blending to the eye. The soil, the banks by the road-side, -and broken ridges of ravines, and water-courses, attracted my attention -by the variety and vividness of their colours; the brightest red and -yellow, and then again pale green, and rich warm gravel-colour. I wished -I had been a geologist. How much pleasure of reflection and -contemplation is lost to the ignorant, whose outward sense wanders over -the objects that surround it, deriving from them but half the delight -that they give the wise and well-informed; even fancy is at fault, for -fancy itself scarce devises images more strange, and beautiful, and -wonderful, than the reality of things presents to those who understand -their properties and natures. The waters were all fast frozen up, and -one or two little pools, all curdled with ice, and locked up in deep -gravelly basins, looked like onyx stones set in gold. As for the road, -we had been assured it was exceedingly good; but mercy on us! I can't -think of it without aching. Here we went up, up, up, and there we went -down, down, down,--now, I was in my father's lap, and now I was half out -of window. The utter impossibility of holding one's self in any one -position for two minutes is absolutely ridiculous. Sometimes we laughed, -and at other times we groaned, at our helpless and hopeless condition; -but at last we arrived, with no bones broken, at about three o'clock, at -the capital and seat of government of the United States.[83] Upon the -height immediately above the city is situated the Capitol, a very -handsome building, of which the Americans are not a little proud; but it -seems placed there by mistake, so little do the miserable untidy hovels -above, and the scattered unfinished red-brick town below, accord with -its patrician marble and high-sounding title. We drove to Gadsby's, -which is an inn like a little town, with more wooden galleries, flights -of steps, passages, door-ways, exits, and entrances, than any building I -ever saw: it reminded me of the house in Tieck's Love-charm. We had not -been arrived a quarter of an hour, when in walked Mr. ---- and Captain -----, and presently Mr. ----. They sat for some time discussing, -laughing, quizzing, and being funny, and then departed. Captain ---- was -telling us a story about a man somewhere up in the lost lands, who was -called Philemon, and whose three sons were paganed (christened, I -suppose, one can't say,) Romulus, Remus, and Tiberius. I thought this -was too good to be true; and D---- and I, laughing over it at dinner, -agreed that we wished any thing of the sort had happened to us. "Some -bread, waiter: what is your name?" said I to the black who was waiting -upon us. "Horatius!" was the reply; which sent me and D---- into fits. - - -_Monday, 14th._ - -When I came in to breakfast, found Mr. ----, whom I like mainly. While -he was here, Dr. ---- and ---- came in. I gave the latter a most -tremendous grasp of the hand: it was like seeing a bit of England to see -him. He said to me, "Oh, how strange it is to see you here;" which -caused my eyes to fill with tears, for, Heaven knows, it feels strange -enough. They had hardly been seated two minutes, when in rushed a boy to -call us to rehearsal. I was as vexed as might be. They all departed; ----- faithfully promising to come again, and have a long talk about the -old country: we then set forth to rehearsal. The theatre is the tiniest -little box that ever was seen,--not much bigger, I verily think, than -the baby's play-house at Versailles. When I came to perceive who the -company were, and that sundry of our Baltimore comrades were come on -hither, I begged to be excused from rehearsing, as they had all done -their parts but a few days before with me. At about two o'clock, Mr. ----- came to take us to the Capitol. Mr. ---- was in the drawing-room. -He had just seen the President; and it seems, that far from coming to -any accommodation with the South Carolinians, there is an immediate -probability of their coming to blows. They say, the old General is -longing for a fight; and, most assuredly, to fight would be better, in -this instance, than to give in; for to yield would be virtually to admit -the right of every individual state to dictate to the whole government. -We walked up to the Capitol: the day was most beautifully bright and -sunny, and the mass of white building, with its terraces and columns, -stood out in fine relief against the cloudless blue sky. We went first -into the senate, or upper house, because Webster was speaking, whom I -especially wished to hear. The room itself is neither large nor lofty; -the senators sit in two semi-circular rows, turned towards the -President, in comfortable arm-chairs. On the same ground, and literally -sitting among the senators, were a whole regiment of ladies, whispering, -talking, laughing, and fidgeting. A gallery, level with the floor, and -only divided by a low partition from the main room, ran round the -apartment: this, too, was filled with pink, and blue, and yellow -bonnets; and every now and then, while the business of the house was -going on, and Webster speaking, a tremendous bustle, and waving of -feathers, and rustling of silks, would be heard, and in came streaming a -reinforcement of political beauties, and then would commence a jumping -up, a sitting down, a squeezing through, and a how-d'-ye-doing, and a -shaking of hands. The senators would turn round; even Webster would -hesitate, as if bothered by the row, and, in short, the whole thing was -more irregular, and unbusiness-like, than any one could have -imagined.[84] Webster's face is very remarkable, particularly the -forehead and eyes. The former projects singularly, absolutely -overhanging the latter, which have a very melancholy, and occasionally -rather wild, expression. The subject upon which he was speaking was not -one of particular interest,--an estimate of the amount of French -spoliations, by cruizers and privateers, upon the American commerce. The -heat of the room was intolerable; and after sitting till I was nearly -suffocated, we adjourned to the House of Representatives. On our way -thither, we crossed a very beautiful circular vestibule, which holds the -centre of the building. It was adorned with sundry memorable passages in -American history, done into pictures by Colonel Trumbull. In the House -of Representatives we were told we should hear nothing of interest, so -turned off, under Mr. ----'s escort, to the Library, which is a -comfortable well-sized room, where we looked over Audubon's Ornithology, -a beautiful work, and saw a man sitting, with his feet upon the table, -reading, which is an American fashion. Met half the New York world -there. After we had stayed there some time, we went into the House of -Representatives. The room itself is lofty and large, and very handsome, -but extremely ill-constructed for the voice, which is completely lost -among the columns, and only reaches the gallery, where listeners are -admitted, in indistinct and very unedifying murmurs. The members not -unfrequently sit with their feet upon their desks. We walked out upon -the terrace, and looked at the view of the Potomac, and the town, which, -in spite of the enlivening effect of an almost summer's sky, looked -dreary and desolate in the extreme. We then returned home. At half-past -five, we went to the theatre. We were a long time before we could -discover, among the intricate dark little passages, our own private -entrance, and were as nearly as possible being carried into the pit by a -sudden rush of spectators making their way thither: I wish we had been; -I think I should like to have seen myself very much. The theatre is -absolutely like a doll's play-house: it was completely crammed with -people. I played ill; I cannot act tragedy within half a yard of the -people in the boxes. By the by, a theatre may very easily be too small -for tragedies which is admirably adapted to comedies. In the latter -species of dramatic representations, the incidents, characters, manners, -and dresses, are, for the most part, modern,--such as we meet with, or -can easily imagine, in our own drawing-rooms, and among our own society. -There is little if any exaggeration of colouring necessary, and no great -exertion of fancy needful either in the actor or audience in executing -and witnessing such a performance. On the contrary, comedy,--high -comedy,--generally embodying the manners, tone, and spirit of the higher -classes of society, the smaller the space, consistent with ease and -grace of carriage, in which such personifications take place, the less -danger there is of the actor's departing from that natural, quiet, and -refined deportment and delivery, which are, in the present day, the -general characteristics of polished society. 'Tis otherwise with tragic -representations. They are unnatural, not positively, but comparatively -unnatural; the incidents are, for the most part, strange, startling, -unusual; and though they always must be within possibility, in order to -excite the sympathies of beholders,--though some of them may even be -historical facts,--yet they are, for the most part, events which come -within the probabilities of few of us, and this renders necessary a -degree of excitement and elevation in the mind of the spectator, foreign -to, and at variance with, the critical spirit of prosaic reality. Again, -the scene of a comedy is generally a drawing-room; and the smaller the -stage, the greater is the possibility of rendering it absolutely like -what we all have seen, and are daily in the habit of seeing; but to -represent groves and mountains, or lakes, or the dwellings of the kings -of the earth, satisfactorily to the spectator's mind, there must be a -certain distance observed, from which the fancy may take its stand for -the best perception of what is intended. Whereas, in closer contact with -such scenes, not only does their immediate proximity convey an -unpleasing consciousness of the unreality of the whole, but the near and -absolute detail of paint, canvass, and gilding, is obtruded in a manner -that destroys all illusion, and, by disturbing the effect of the whole -upon the spectator, necessarily weakens that part which depends solely -upon the actor. The same thing applies to dress. Foil-stone, paste, and -coloured glass, by French ingenuity have been manufactured into toys, -which, with the help of distance, may be admitted as representing the -splendours of Eastern costume, or even the glittering trappings of those -gaudy little superhumans, the fairies. But nearness utterly dissolves -the spell, and these substitutes for magnificence become palpable -impositions, and very often most ludicrous ones. I have often been -accused of studying my attitudes; but the truth is, that most things -that are presented to my imagination, instead of being mere -abstractions, immediately assume form and colour, and become pictures; -these I constantly execute on the stage as I had previously seen them in -my fancy: but as few pictures as large as life admit of being seen to -best effect immediately close to the spectator, so the whole effect -produced by a graceful attitude, fine colours, or skilful grouping on -the stage, is considerably diminished when the space is restricted, and -the audience brought too near the performers. So much for little -theatres. ---- came in after the play. He told us that as he was coming -out of the theatre, a Kentuckian accosted him with, "Well, what do you -think of that 'ere _gal_?"--"Oh," hesitatingly replied ----, "I don't -quite know."--"Well," retorted the questioner, "any how, I guess she's -o' some account!" - - -_Tuesday, 15th._ - -At eleven o'clock, Mr. ---- called. Went with him to see the original of -the Declaration of Independence, also a few medals, for the most part -modern ones, and neither of much beauty or curiosity. Afterwards went to -the War-Office, where we saw sundry Indian properties,--bows and arrows, -canoes, smoking-pipes, and, what interested me much more, the pictures -of a great many savage chiefs, and one or two Indian women. The latter -were rather pretty: the men were not any of them handsome; scorn round -the mouth, and cunning in the eyes, seemed to be the general -characteristic of all their faces. There was a portrait of Red Jacket, -which gave me a most unpoetical low-life impression of that great -palaverer. The names of many of them delighted me,--as, _the Ever-awake; -the Man that stands and strikes; the North Wind_. One of the women's -names amused me a great deal,--_the Woman that spoke first_; which title -occasioned infinite surmise among us as to the occasion on which she -earned it. After we had done seeing what was to be seen, we went on to -the President's house, which is a comfortless handsome-looking building, -with a withered grass-plot enclosed in wooden palings in front, and a -desolate reach of uncultivated ground down to the river behind. Mr. ---- -gave us a most entertaining account of the levees, or rather public -days, at the President's house. Every human being has a right to present -himself there; the consequence is, that great numbers of the very -commonest sort of people used to rush in, and follow about the servants -who carried refreshments, seizing upon whatever they could get, and -staring and pushing about, to the infinite discomfiture of the more -respectable and better-behaved part of the assembly. Indeed, the -nuisance became so great, that they discontinued the eatables, and in -great measure got rid of the crowd. Mr. ---- assured me that on one of -these occasions, two _ladies_ had themselves lifted up and seated on the -chimney-piece, in order to have a better view of the select -congregation beneath them. Mr. ---- left us to go to the Capitol, and -we came home. ----, Mr. ----, and Captain ---- called. We sat discussing -names; which, in this country, are certainly more ambitious than in any -other in the world.[85] Besides Captain ----'s classical family, Mr. ----- assured us that he knew of a man whose name was _Return Jonathan -Meigs_; and ---- swore to one in New York called _Alonzo Leontes -Agamemnon Beaugardus_. I have myself seen a _Harmanus Boggs_, _Aquila -Jones_, and _Alpheus Brett_; but I have not been favoured with an -acquaintance with any such names as they quoted. ---- appears to me -altered since I saw him in England. He was always silent, and quiet, and -gentle; but there was an air of complacency and contented cheerfulness -about him, which I think he has very much lost: he looks sad and -careworn. I was sorry to see it. After dinner, sat writing journal. Mr. ----- came in and sat some time with us. He is very clever and agreeable, -and I like him greatly. - - -_Wednesday, 16th._ - -After breakfast, went to rehearsal. At half past twelve, Mr. ---- came -to ride with me. The horse he had gotten for me was base; but never -mind, the day was exquisitely mild and bright,--the sort of early -spring-feeling day, when in England the bright gold and pale delicate -violet of the crocus buds begin to break the rich dark mould, and the -fragrant gummy leaves of the lilac bushes open their soft brown folds. -We had a very pleasant ride through some pretty woodlands on the -opposite side of the river. At half-past five, went to the theatre. The -play was the Hunchback: the house was crowded. In the last scene, Master -Walter upbraided me thus:-- - - - The engineer - Who lays the last stone of his sea-built tower, - And, smiling at it, bids the winds and waves - To roar and whistle now--but in a night - Beholds the tempest sporting in its place, - May look _agash_ as I did. - - -Also in the exclamation,-- - - - Fathers, make straws your children: nature's nothing, - Blood nothing: once in other veins it flows, - It no more _yawneth_ for the parent flood - Than doth the stream that from the stream disparts. - - -Mr. ---- and ---- came in after the play. We had a discussion as to how -far real feeling enters into our scenic performances. 'Tis hard to say: -the general question it would be impossible to answer, for acting is -altogether a monstrous anomaly. John Kemble and Mrs. Siddons were always -in earnest in what they were about; Miss O'Neill used to cry bitterly in -all her tragedy parts; whilst Garrick could be making faces and playing -tricks in the middle of his finest points, and Kean would talk gibberish -while the people were in an uproar of applause at his. In my own -individual instance, I know that sometimes I could turn every word I am -saying into burlesque (_never_ Shakspeare, by the by), and at others my -heart aches, and I cry real, bitter, warm tears, as earnestly as if I -was in earnest. - - -_Thursday, 17th._ - -Sat writing journal till twelve o'clock, when we went to Mr. ----'s. -Took him up, and thence proceeded to the Presidency to be presented in -due form. His Excellency Andrew Jackson is very tall and thin, but erect -and dignified in his carriage--a good specimen of a fine old -well-battered soldier. His hair is very thick and grey: his manners are -perfectly simple and quiet, therefore very good; so are those of his -niece, Mrs. ----, who is a very pretty person, and lady of the house, -Mrs. Jackson having been dead some time. He talked about South Carolina, -and entered his protest against scribbling ladies, assuring us that the -whole of the present southern disturbances had their origin in no larger -a source than the nib of the pen of a lady. Truly, if this be true, the -lady must have scribbled to some purpose. We sat a little more than a -quarter of an hour; Mr. ---- was calling at the same time.[86] We -afterwards adjourned to Mr. ----'s house. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Appointed Mr. ---- to come down directly and ride with me. Drove with my -father and Mr. ---- to leave cards on ----, and then walked home. The -day was bright and fine, but very cold. Habited, and at about one -o'clock Mr. ---- called for me. On going to the door, I found him and -his horse, and a strange, tall, grey horse for me, and a young gentleman -of the name of ----, to whom I understood it belonged, and whom Mr. ---- -introduced to me as very anxious to join my party. I was a little -startled at this, as I did not quite think Mr. ---- ought to have -brought any body to ride with me without my leave. However, as I was -riding his horse, I was just as well pleased that he was by, for I -don't like having the responsibility of such valuable property as a -private gentleman's horse to take care of. I told him this, alleging it -as a reason for my preferring to ride an indifferent hack horse, about -which I had no such anxiety. He replied that I need have none about his. -I told him laughingly that I would give him two dollars for the hire of -it, and then I should feel quite happy; all which nonsense passed as -nonsense should, without a comment. He is a son of ----: I thought him -tolerably pleasant and well informed. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I would have a man who lived in the wretchedest corner of the earth -think his own country the first of countries; for 'tis noble and -natural, one of the most respectable instincts in the human heart. We -rode till half-past three. The horse I was upon was, Mr. ---- assured -me, an English one, but he had been long enough in this world to learn -racking, and forget every other more christian pace; he tired me -dreadfully. After dinner, wrote journal till time to go to the theatre. -The play was the School for Scandal; in the fourth act of which Joseph -Surface assured me that _I was a plethora_!!!--Mr. ---- came in and -supped with us after the play. He gave us a very interesting account of -a school that had been attempted to be formed in Massachusetts, for the -purpose of educating young men of the savage tribes, who were willing to -become Christians, and receive instruction. It was obliged, however, to -be given up, in consequence of several of them having fallen in love -with and married American girls, whom they took away into the woods, -many of them after they were there returning to their savage ways of -living, which must have placed their wretched Christian wives in a -horrible situation. - - -_Friday, 18th._ - -At eleven, Mr. ---- called to take D---- and myself to the War-Office: I -wanted her to see the Indian spoils there. On our way thither, he read -us some very pretty verses which he had written upon the subject of the -"woman who spoke first." When we had seen what we wanted to see, we -returned home, and I began to habit. While doing so, received a most -comical Yankee note, signed by Mr. ----, but written, I am sure, by -Captain ----, to apprize me that the former was unwell, but that he, -Captain ----, would accompany me on horseback, if I pleased. The note -was exquisite. I finished dressing, and then we set off. I charged -Captain ---- with the note, and he pleaded guilty,--the thing was -evident. While we were riding, Captain ---- told me sundry most -exquisite native morceaux, and one thing that half-killed me with -laughing. Mr. ----'s negro servant and Mr. ----'s conversing together -about me, one asked the other if he had seen me yet at the theatre, to -which Mr. ----'s man replied, "No, sir; I have had the pleasure of -seeing Miss Kemble in private society:"--he brings my horse down every -morning for me! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Perhaps, after all, life is worth no more than a laugh, and all its -strange mysteries of sin and suffering, its summer dreams of excellence -innate and to be acquired, its fond yearning affections, its deep -passions, its high and glorious tendings,--all but jests to make the -worldly-wise smile, and the believers in them despair. God keep me from -such thoughts!--they are dreadful! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After dinner, wrote journal. At half-past five, went to the theatre: the -play was the Hunchback,--the house was very good. I wonder if any body -on earth can form the slightest idea of the interior of this wretched -little theatre; 'tis the smallest I ever was in. The proprietors are -poor, the actors poorer; and the grotesque mixture of misery, vulgarity, -stage-finery, and real raggedness, is beyond every thing strange, and -sad, and revolting,--it reminds me constantly of some of Hogarth's -pictures, and passages in Goethe's Wilhelm Meister. After the play, came -home and supped. By the by, just as I had done breakfast this morning, -Judge ---- called, who is the most exquisite original I have met with -even in this land of their abundance. He gave me a long scolding for -getting up so late, and assured me that I meant to settle in this -country, at the same time drawing an enchanting picture of rural -happiness to the west,--a cottage by a rivulet, with two cows, and just -enough to starve upon!--I think I see myself there. This sentimental -prophecy was prefaced by a remark that he knew I was very romantic, and -interrupted every two minutes by a dexterous expectoral interjection, -which caused me nearly to jump off my chair with dismay. - - -_Saturday, 19th._ - -_Giorno d'orrore!_--but I won't anticipate. They have settled to act -Much Ado about Nothing, instead of the Inconstant. I have no clothes for -Beatrice,--but that don't matter. After breakfast, went to rehearsal, -and then walked with my father to see a very pretty model of what is to -be the town-hall. It never will be, for the corporation are as poor as -_Job's kittens_ (Americanism--communicated by Captain ----), and the -city of Washington itself is only kept alive by Congress. Talking of the -city of Washington,--'tis the strangest thing by way of a town that can -be fancied. It is laid out to cover, I should think, some ten miles -square, but the houses are here, there, and no where: the streets, -conventionally not properly so called, are roads, crooked or straight, -where buildings are _intended_ to be. Every now and then an interesting -gap of a quarter of a mile occurs between those houses that _are_ built: -in the midst of the town, you can't help fancying you are in the -country; and between wooden palings, with nothing to be seen on either -side but cedar bushes and sand, you are informed you are in the midst of -the town. The Elysian Fields is a broken patch of moorland, sand, and -gravel: the Jardin des Plantes is a nursery-ground full of slips of -shrubs a foot and a half high; the Tiber, alias Goose Creek, is an -unhappy-looking ditch;--and Washington altogether struck me as a -rambling red-brick image of futurity, where nothing _is_, but all things -_are to be_. Came home and habited. At half-past twelve, Captain ---- -came for me; just as we were going, ---- called. He was on horseback, -and asked leave to join us, which I agreed to very readily. He was -pilot, and led us round and about, through the woods, and across the -waters; all of which, as Captain ---- observed, was in the day's work. -We returned at half-past three. Directly after dinner, I set out to pay -sundry cards. The day had been heavenly,--bright, and warm, and balmy; -the evening was beautifully soft; and as I drove over hill and dale, -marsh and moorland, through the city of Washington, paying my cards, the -stars came out one after another in the still sky, and the scattered -lights of the town looked like a capricious congregation of -Jack-o'-lanterns, some high, some low, some here, some there, showing -more distinctly, by the dark spaces between them, the enormous share -that emptiness has in the congressional city. One of my visits lay -nearly three miles out of town, so that I was not back until six -o'clock. As I came rushing along the corridor, I met D---- coming to -meet me, who exclaimed, with an air of mingled horror and satisfaction, -"Oh, here you are!--here is coffee and Mr. ---- waiting for you!" I went -into the room, and found a goodly-looking personage, old enough to know -better, sitting with my father, who appeared amazingly disturbed, held -an open letter in his hand, and exclaimed, the moment I came in, "There, -sir, there is the young lady to speak for herself." I courtesied, and -sat down. "Fanny," quoth my father, "something particularly disagreeable -has occurred,--pray, can you call to mind any thing you said during the -course of your Thursday's ride, which was likely to be offensive to Mr. -----, or any thing abusive of this country?" As I have already had -sundry specimens of the great talent there is for tattle in the -exclusive coteries of this gossiping new world, I merely untied my -bonnet, and replied, that I did not at that moment recollect a word that -I had said during my whole ride, and should certainly not give myself -any trouble to do so. "Now, my dear," said my father, his own eyes -flashing with indignation, "don't put yourself into a passion; compose -yourself, and recollect. Here is a letter I have just received." He -proceeded to read it, and the contents were to this effect--that during -my ride with Mr. ---- I had said I did not choose to ride an American -gentleman's horse, and _had offered him two dollars for the hire of -his_; that moreover, I had spoken most derogatorily of America and -Americans; in consequence of all which, if my father did not give some -explanation, or make some apology to the public, I should certainly be -hissed off the stage, as soon as I appeared on it that evening. This was -pleasant. I stated the conversation as it had passed, adding, that as to -any sentiments a person might express on any subject, liberty of -opinion, and liberty of speech, were alike rights which belonged to -every body, and that, with a due regard to good feeling, and good -breeding, they were rights which nobody ought, and I never would forego. -Mr. ---- opened his eyes. I longed to add, that any conversation between -me and any other person was nobody's business but mine, and his or hers, -and that the whole thing was, on the part of the young gentleman -concerned, the greatest piece of blackguardism, and on that of the old -gentleman concerned the greatest piece of twaddle, that it had ever been -my good fortune to hear of. "For," said Mr. ----, "not less than -_fifty_ members of Congress have already mentioned the matter to me." -Fifty old gossiping women! why the whole thing is for all the world like -a village tattle in England, among half a dozen old wives round their -tea-pots. All Washington was in dismay; and my evil deeds and evil words -were the town talk,--fields, gaps, marshes, and all, rang with them. -This is an agreeable circumstance, and a display of national character -highly entertaining and curious.[87] It gave me at the time, however, a -dreadful side-ach, and nervous cough. I went to the theatre, dressed, -and came on the stage in the full expectation of being hissed off it, -which is a pleasant sensation, very, and made my heart full of -bitterness to think I should stand,--as no woman ought to stand,--the -mark of public insult. However, no such thing occurred,--I went on and -came off without any such trial of my courage; but I had been so much -annoyed, and was still so indignant, that I passed the intervals between -my scenes in crying,--which, of course, added greatly to the mirth and -spirit of my performance of Beatrice. In the middle of the play, Mr. ----- and Captain ---- came behind the scenes, and then, indeed, I _was_ -quite glad to see Englishmen; though their compassionate sympathies for -my wrongs, and tender fears lest I should catch cold behind those horrid -scenes, very nearly set me off crying again. A soft word, when one is in -deep commiseration of one's self, is very apt to open the flood-gates; -but I was ashamed to cry before them, so tried to keep my -heart-swellings down. When the play was over, came home. Mr. ---- came -and supped with us. By the by, he called this morning before I went out -riding, and expressed many sorrows at our departure. He is a clever and -extremely well-informed man, and I like him very much. When he was gone, -sat talking over the ---- affair. My father was in a greater passion -than I think I ever saw him before. I am sure I would not have warranted -one of that worthy young gentleman's bones, if he had fallen in with -him. I am very glad he did not; for, to knock a man down, even though he -does deserve it, is a serious matter rather. - - -_Wednesday, 30th, Philadelphia._ - -After breakfast, practised for an hour: wrote journal. Mr. ----, the -wild-eyed, flowing-haired, white-waistcoated, velvet-collared, ---- ---- -called upon me. He sat some time asking me questions; but, since the ----- affair, I have grown rather afraid of opening my mouth, and he had -the conversation chiefly to himself. Finished journal; dined at -half-past three: after dinner, went and sat with Mrs. ----. One Mr. -----, a Boston man who was at Mrs. ----'s ball last night, was in her -room. I was introduced to him, and he spoke of the ----s. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Sat with them till coffee-time. Went to the theatre at half-past five. -It poured with rain, in spite of which the house was very good: the play -was Fazio. When I came on in my fine dress, at the beginning of the -second act, the people hailed me with such a tremendous burst of -applause, and prolonged it so much, that I was greatly puzzled to -imagine what on earth possessed them. I concluded they were pleased with -my dress, but could not help being rather amused at their vehement and -continued clapping, considering they had seen it several times before. -However, they ceased at last, and I thought no more about it. Towards -the time for the beginning of the third act, which opens with my being -discovered waiting for Fazio's return, as I was sitting in my -dressing-room working, D---- suddenly exclaimed, "Hark!--what is that?" ----- opened the door, and we heard a tremendous noise of shouts and of -applause. "They are waiting for you, certainly," said D----. She ran -out, and returned, saying, "The stage is certainly waiting for you, -Fanny, for the curtain is up." I rushed out of the room; but on opening -the door leading to the stage, I distinctly heard my father's voice -addressing the audience. I turned sick with a sort of indefinite -apprehension, and on enquiry found that at the beginning of the play a -number of handbills had been thrown into the pit, professing to quote my -conversation with Mr. ---- at Washington, and calling upon the people to -resent my conduct in the grossest and most vulgar terms. This precious -document had, it seems, been brought round by somebody to my father, who -immediately went on with it in his hand, and assured the audience that -the whole thing was a falsehood. I scarce heard what he said, though I -stood at the side scene: I was crying dreadfully with fright and -indignation. How I wished I was a caterpillar under a green -gooseberry-bush! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Oh, how I did wince to think of going on again after this scene, though -the feeling of the audience was most evident; for all the applause I had -fancied they bestowed upon my dress was, in fact, an unsolicited -testimony of their disbelief in the accusation brought against me. They -received my father's words with acclamations; and when the curtain drew -up, and I was discovered, the pit rose and waved their hats, and the -applause was tremendous. I was crying dreadfully, and could hardly -speak; however, I mastered myself and went on with my part,--though, -what with the dreadful exertion that it is in itself, and the painful -excitement I had just undergone, I thought I should have fainted before -I got through with it. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Saturday, Feb. 2d._ - -After breakfast, ---- called to see how I did after my walk: he sat for -some time. At twelve, went out paying bills and calls; bought a German -ĉolina; sat some time with old Mrs. ----, and spent a delightful hour -with Mr. ---- and his family. He is a most agreeable person, but he -thinks too well of acting. Came home; dined at three; Mr. and Mrs. ---- -dined with us. After dinner, went into her room, and remained there till -time to go to the theatre. Young ---- and Dr. ---- came in. The play was -the Gamester: it was my benefit, and I am afraid the good folks who -addressed that amiable placard to the public will have been rather ill -satisfied with their suggestion about my benefit. The house was -literally crammed, in consequence of that very circumstance,--crammed is -the word. When the curtain drew up, they applauded me without end, and I -courtesied as profoundly as I was able; indeed, I am extremely obliged -to this same excellent public, for they have testified most -satisfactorily every way the kindest feeling possible for me, and the -most entire faith in my good behaviour. I did not play well, my voice -was so dreadfully affected by my cough. - - -_Monday, 4th._ - -Dined at three. After dinner, Mrs. ---- came into our room, where I sang -and played till time to go to the theatre. The play was the Merchant of -Venice, and Katharine and Petruchio for the farce;--my father's benefit: -the house was crammed from floor to ceiling, as full as it could hold: -so much for the success of the hand-bills. Indeed, as somebody -suggested, I think if we could find the author of that placard out we -are bound to give him a handsome reward, for he certainly has given us -two of the finest benefits that ever were seen. I heard that a man said -the other day that he should not be surprised if _my father had got the -whole of this up himself_. Oh, day and night! that such thoughts should -come into any human being's head.[88] At the end, the people shouted and -shrieked for us. He went on, and made them a speech, and I went on and -made them a courtesy; and certainly they do deserve the civillest of -speeches, and lowest of courtesies from us, for they have behaved most -kindly and courteously to us; and, for mine own good part, I love the -whole city of Philadelphia from this time forth, for evermore.[89] - -Mr. ---- came round to the stage door to bid us good-night; and as we -drove off, a whole parcel of folk, who had gathered round the door to -see us depart, set up a universal hurrah! How strange a thing it is, -that popular shout. After all, Pitt or Canning could get no more for the -finest oratory that human lips ever uttered, or the wisest policy that -human brain ever devised. Sometimes they got the reverse; but then the -_hereafter_--there's the rub! Praise is so sweet to me that I would have -it lasting: above all, I would wish to feel that I deserved it. I must -do so if I am to value it a straw; and acting, even the best that ever -was seen, is, to my mind, but a poor claim to approbation. I think the -applause of an audience in a play-house should be reckoned with the -friendly and favourable opinions of a good-natured tipsy man,--'tis -given under excitement. Oh Lord! how unsatisfactory all things are! - - -_Wednesday, 13th, New York._ - -After dinner, ---- came in. He sat himself down, and presently was -over-head in reminiscences. His account of Tom Paine's escape from the -Conciergerie, on the eve of being guillotined, was extremely -interesting. His own introduction to, and subsequent acquaintance with, -that worthy, was equally so, and his summing up was highly -characteristic. "I tell ye, madam, the saving of that man's life was an -especial providence, that he might come over to this country, where his -works have done so much harm, and might have done so much more, and just -exemplify the result of his own principles put into practice in his own -person, and show that the glorious light of reason, and the noble -natural gifts of man, of which he preached so much, would neither -prevent a man's becoming a drunkard and a spendthrift, nor a debased -degraded being. If Paine had been guillotined, madam, he would have been -a martyr, and his works would have had ten times the power of evil they -had before. But he lived to be a miserable low unthrift, and sot, and -died neglected and despised by all reputable and respectable -individuals, and, I say again, it was a manifest providence that he did -so." We left the gentlemen to their wine for a short time, but were -presently summoned back. ---- had gone to the theatre. ---- began his -history to me, and it was, word for word, a repetition of Galt's book, -except that occasionally it was more touching. The pity of all this is, -the man's own consciousness that he is a lion. His vanity is almost as -amusing as his recollections are curious and interesting; and though the -tears were in my eye several times while he described the blessed time -he lived with his sweet Phoebe, yet, at others, I could scarce help -exclaiming, in the words of his own countryman, "Heigh, cretur, cretur! -thou hast unco plause o' thysel'!" He ended his narrative with a eulogy -of women that would have warmed the heart of a stone; and to my utter -surprise addressed Mr. ---- with, "Out upon ye, bachelors, all! ye throw -away your lives, and your life's happiness!" This last attack of ----'s -seemed too much for Mr. ----; and, as I turned to him with the tears in -my eyes, to desire he would not laugh, which he was doing very heartily, -he said he couldn't stand it any longer, and went away, apparently more -amused than edified by ----'s appeal. - - -_Thursday, 14th._ - -St. Valentine's day! I wish all these pretty golden days, which, like -the flowers in the sundial of Linnĉus, were wont so gaily to mark the -flight of time, were not becoming so dim in our calendars; I wish St. -Valentine's day, and May morning, and Christmas day, and New-Year's day, -were not putting off their holiday suits to wear the work-day russet of -their drudging fellows; I wish we were not making all things, of all -sorts, so completely of a neutral tint. - - * * * * * - -I wouldn't be in the Reform Parliament of England for ten thousand -pounds! ----, and ----, the bruiser, and the bankrupt! Oh, shame, -England, shame!--Poor England! - - -A RHAPSODY. - - White lady, sitting on the sea, - Tell to me, oh, tell to me, - How long shall thy reigning be, - White lady, sitting on the sea? - - Long as the oak with which I'm crown'd - Shall bear one leaf above the ground, - Round which the crawling ivy's grasp - Its cursed tendrils does not clasp; - Long as one foot remains to stand - Firm on its own ancestral land; - Or one true man be left to claim - The burden of a noble name; - Long as one Gothic shrine shall rise - With 'scutcheon'd tomb, and banner'd stall, - Or the blest glances of the skies, - Through storied casements dimly fall; - Long as one heart shall beat to hear - Legends of the old valiant time; - Long as the Sabbath wind shall bear - The music of one haunting chime. - - White lady, sitting on the sea, - Tell to me, oh, tell to me, - When shall thy downfalling be, - White lady, sitting on the sea? - - When the vile kennel mud is thrown - Upon the ermine of the king, - And the old worships are cast down - Before a rabble's triumphing; - When toothless ---- is young again, - To do the mischief he but dreams, - And little ---- shall make more plain - The good that glitters through his schemes; - When the steam-engine of the north - Leaves making essays and wry faces; - And patriot Whigs forget the worth - Of pensions, power, pride, and places; - When on the spot where Burke and Pitt - Earn'd their high immortality, - Boxers and bankrupts boldly sit, - Then, then shall my downfalling be. - - -_Monday, 18th._ - -After breakfast, went to rehearsal; came home and stitched at my -_Françoise de Foix_ head-dress. My father is extremely unwell; I scarce -think he will be able to get through his part to-night. After dinner, -practised, and read a canto in Dante. It pleases me, when I refer to -Biagioli's notes, to find that the very lines Alfieri has noted are -those under which I have drawn my emphatic pencil marks. At half-past -five, went to the theatre. The play was Macbeth, for my benefit: the -house was very full, and I played very ill. My father was dreadfully -exhausted by his work. I had an interesting discussion with Mr. ----- about the costume and acting of the witches in this awful play. I -should like to see them acted and dressed a little more like what they -should be, than they generally are. It has been always -customary,--Heaven only knows why,--to make low comedians act the -witches, and to dress them like old fish-women. Instead of the wild -unearthly appearance which Banquo describes, and which belongs to their -most terrible and grotesquely poetical existence and surroundings, we -have three jolly-faced fellows,--whom we are accustomed to laugh at, -night after night, in every farce on the stage,--with as due a -proportion of petticoats as any woman, letting alone witch, might -desire, jocose red faces, peaked hats, and broomsticks, which last -addition alone makes their costume different from that of Moll Flagon. -If I had the casting of Macbeth, I would give the witches to the first -melo-dramatic actors on the stage,--such men as T. P. Cooke, and O. -Smith, who understand all that belongs to picturesque devilry to -perfection,--and give them such dresses as, without ceasing to be -grotesque, should be a little more fanciful, and less ridiculous than -the established livery; something that would accord a little better with -the blasted heath, the dark fungus-grown wood, the desolate misty -hill-side, and the flickering light of the caldron cave.[90] - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Wednesday, 20th._ - -After breakfast, ---- and Mr. ---- came. ---- gave me the words and tune -of a bewitching old English ballad. Mr. ---- called and sat some time -with me: I like him mainly,--he's very pleasant and clever. That -handsome creature, Mme. ----, called with her daughter and her -son-in-law. Mr. ---- and ---- dined with us. After dinner, came to my -own room, sang over ----'s ballad, and amused myself with writing one of -my own. At half-past five, took coffee, and off to the theatre. The -house was very full; play, the Stranger: I didn't play well: I'd a gown -on that did not fit me, to which species of accident our _art_ is -marvellously subservient, for a tight arm-hole shall mar the grandest -passage in Queen Constance, and too long or too short a skirt keep one's -heart cold in the balcony scene in Juliet. Came home; supped; finished -marking the Winter's Tale. What a dense fool that fat old Johnson must -have been in matters of poetry! his notes upon Shakspeare make one -swear, and his summing up of the Winter's Tale is worthy of a newspaper -critic of the present day,--in spirit, I mean, not language; Dr. Johnson -always wrote good English.--What dry, and sapless, and dusty earth his -soul must have been made of, poor fat man! After all, 'tis even a -greater misfortune than fault to be so incapable of beauty. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -BALLAD. - - The Lord's son stood at the clear spring head, - The May on the other side, - "And stretch me your lily hand," he said, - "For I must mount and ride. - - "And waft me a kiss across the brook, - And a curl of your yellow hair; - Come summer or winter, I ne'er shall look - Again on your eyes so fair. - - "Bring me my coal-black steed, my squire, - Bring Fleetfoot forth!" he cried; - "For three-score miles he must not tire, - To bear me to my bride. - - "His foot must be swift, though my heart be slow; - He carries me towards my sorrow; - To the Earl's proud daughter I made my vow, - And I must wed her to-morrow." - - The Lord's son stood at the altar stone,-- - The Earl's proud daughter near: - "And what is that ring you have gotten on, - That you kiss so oft and so dear? - - "Is it a ring of the yellow gold, - Or something more precious and bright? - Give me that ring in my hand to hold, - Or I plight ye no troth to-night." - - "It is not a ring of the yellow gold, - But something more precious and bright; - But never shall hand, save my hand, hold - This ring by day or night." - - "And now I am your wedded wife, - Give me the ring, I pray."-- - "You may take my lands, you may take my life, - But never this ring away." - - They sat at the board; and the lady bride - Red wine in a goblet pour'd; - "And pledge me a health, sweet sir," she cried, - "My husband and my lord." - - The cup to his lips he had scarcely press'd, - When he gasping drew his breath, - His head sank down on his heaving breast, - And he said, "It is death! it is death!-- - - "Oh bury me under the gay green shaw - By the brook, 'neath the heathery sod, - Where last her blessed eyes I saw, - Where her blessed feet last trod!" - - -_Saturday, 23d._ - -We came home at two. ---- and the horses were waiting for me: we mounted -and rode down to the Hoboken ferry, where we crossed. The day was like -an early day in spring in England; a day when the almond trees would all -have been in flower, the hawthorn hedges putting forth their tender -green and brown shoots, and the primroses gemming the mossy roots of the -trees by the water-courses. The spring is backwarder here a good deal -than with us: to be sure, it is sudden compared with ours,--as my -poetising friend hath it,-- - - - "Not with slow steps, in smiles, in tears advancing, - But with a bound, like Indian girls in dancing." - - -I do not like this: I like to linger over the sweet hourly and daily -fufilment of hope, which the slow progress of vegetation in my own dear -country allows one full enjoyment of; to watch the leaf from the bark, -the blossom from the bud; the delicate, pale-white, peeping heads of the -hawthorn, to the fragrant, snowy, delicious flush of flowering; the -downy green clusters of small round buds on the apple trees, to the -exquisite rosy-tinted clouds of soft blossoms waving against an evening -sky. The melted snow had made the roads all but impassable; however, the -day was delightfully mild and sunny, and therefore we did not get -chilled by the very temperate rate at which we were obliged to proceed. -We turned off to look at the Turtle Pavilion, and, pursuing the water's -edge, got up upon a species of high dyke between some marshes that open -into the river. Our path, however, was presently intercepted by a stile, -and as the horses were not quite of the sort one could have risked a -leap with, ---- got off and endeavoured to lead his charger round the -edge of the steep bank, but the brute refused that road, and we were -forced to turn back; and, after floundering about over some of the -roughest worst ground imaginable, we e'en went out of the Hoboken domain -at the gate where we entered, and pursued that beautiful road -overlooking the Hudson, under that fine range of cliffs which are the -first idea, as it were, of the Palisadoes. We took the lower road down -into the glen below Weehawk. The sun shone gloriously: the little fairy -stream that owns this narrow glade was singing and dancing along its -beautiful domain with a sweet gleesome voice, and a succession of little -sparkling breaks and eddies that looked like laughter. We left the muddy -road, and turned our horses into the stream; but its bed was very stony -and uneven, and we were obliged to turn out of it again. We rode like -very impudent persons up to the house on the height. The house itself is -too unsheltered for comfort either in summer or winter, but the view -from its site is beautiful, and we had it in perfection to-day. Standing -at an elevation of more than a hundred feet from the river, we looked -down its magnificent, broad, silvery avenue, to the Narrows--that rocky -gate that opens towards my home. New York lay bright and distinct on the -opposite shore, glittering like a heap of toys in the sunny distance: -the water towards Sandy Hook was studded with sails; and far up on the -other side the river rolled away among shores that, even in this wintry -time of bare trees and barren earth, looked gay and lovely in the -sunshine. We turned down again; but after crossing the bridge over the -pretty brook, we took an upper path to the right, and riding through -some leafless, warm, sunny woodlands, joined the road that leads to the -Weehawken height, and so returned to New York. On our way, discussing -the difference between religion as felt by men and women, ---- agreed -with me, that hardly one man out of five thousand held any distinct -entire and definite religious belief. He said that religion was a -sentiment, and that, as regarded all creeds, there was no midway with -them; that faith or utter disbelief were the only alternatives; for that -displacing one jot of any of them made the whole totter,--which last is, -in some measure, true, but I do not think it is true that religion is -_only_ a sentiment. There are many reasons why women are more religious -than men. Our minds are not generally naturally analytical--our -education tends to render them still less so: 'tis seldom in a woman's -desire (because seldom in her capacity) to investigate the abstract -bearings of any metaphysical subject. Our imaginations are exceedingly -sensitive, our subservience to early impressions, and exterior forms, -proportionate; and our habits of thought, little enlarged by experience, -observation, or proper culture, render us utterly incapable of almost -any logical train of reasonings. With us, I think, therefore, faith is -the only secure hold; for disbelief, acting upon mental constructions so -faulty and weak, would probably engender insanity, or a thousand species -of vague, wild, and mischievous enthusiasms.[91] I believe, too, that -women are more religious than men, because they have warmer and deeper -affections. There is nothing surely on earth that can satisfy and -utterly fulfil the capacity for loving which exists in every woman's -nature. Even when her situation in life is such as to call forth and -constantly keep in exercise the best affections of her heart, as a -wife, and a mother, it still seems to me as if more would be wanting to -fill the measure of yearning tenderness, which, like an eternal -fountain, gushes up in every woman's heart; therefore I think it is that -we turn, in the plenitude of our affections, to that belief which is a -religion of love, and where the broadest channel is open to receive the -devotedness, the clinging, the confiding trustfulness, which are -idolatry when spent upon creatures like ourselves, but become a holy -worship when offered to Heaven.[92] Nor is it only from the abundance -and overflowing of our affections that we are devout; 'tis not only from -our capacity of loving, but also from our capacity of suffering, that -our piety springs. Woman's physical existence, compared with that of -man, is one of incessant endurance. This in itself begets a necessity -for patience, a seeking after strength, a holding forth of the hands for -support; thus, the fragile frame, the loving heart, and the ignorant -mind, are in us sources of religious faith. But it often happens that -those affections, so strong, so deep, so making up the sum and substance -of female existence, instead of being happily employed, as I have -supposed above, are converted into springs of acute suffering. These -wells of feeling hidden in the soul, upon whose surface the slightest -smile of affection falls like sunlight, but whose very depths are -stirred by the breath of unkindness, are too often un-visited by the -kindly influence of kindred sympathies, and go wearing their own -channels deeper, in silence and in secrecy, and in infinite -bitterness,--undermining health, happiness, the joy of life, and making -existence one succession of burden-bearing days, and toilsome, aching, -heavy hours. It is in this species of blight, which falls upon many -women, that any religious faith becomes a refuge and a consolation, more -especially that merciful and compassionate faith whose words are, "Come -unto me, all ye that labour and are heavy laden, and I will give you -rest." To that rest betakes itself the wearied spirit, the wounded -heart; and it becomes a blessing beyond all other blessings; a source of -patience, of fortitude, of hope, of strength, of endurance; a shelter in -the scorching land,--a spring of water in the wilderness. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Saturday, April 13th._ - -At a quarter after four, drove down to the boat. ---- was waiting to see -us off, and ---- presently made his appearance to see us on. Owing to -the yesterday's boat not having sailed, it was crowded to-day, and -freighted most heavily, so as to draw an unusual quantity of water, and -proceed at a much slower rate than common. At a few minutes after five, -the huge brazen bell on deck began to toll; the mingled crowd jostled, -and pushed, and rolled about; the loiterers on shore rushed on board; -the bidders-farewell on board rushed on shore; D---- and I took a quiet -sunny stand, away from all the confusion, and watched from our floating -palace New York glide away like a glittering dream from before us. A -floating palace indeed it was, in size and in magnificence: I never saw -any thing to compare with the beauty, and comfort, and largeness of all -its accommodations. Our Scotch steam-boat, the United Kingdom, is a -cockboat to it, and even the splendid Hudson boat, the North America, is -far inferior to it in every respect, except, I believe, swiftness,--but -then these Boston boats have sometimes very heavy sea to go through.[93] -Besides the ladies' cabin, this boat is furnished with half a dozen -state rooms, taken from the upper deck,--an inexpressible luxury. Into -one of these our night-bags were conveyed, and we returned to the deck -to watch the sun down. A strong and piercing wind blew over the waters, -and almost cut me in half as I stood watching the shores, which I did -not wish to lose by going in. However, I might have done so, and lost -but little; for after passing Hell-gate, where the rocks in the river -and the banks have rather a picturesque appearance, there was neither -form nor comeliness in the flat wearisome land to either side; and the -only objects which detained me on deck were the bright blue waters -themselves, all shining in the sunset, and those lovely little boats, -with one mast and two glittering sails, scudding past us like fairy -craft upon the burnished waves. At about eight, we were summoned down to -tea, which was a compound meal of tea and supper. The company were so -numerous that they were obliged to lay the table twice. We waited till -the crowd had devoured their feed, and had ours in comparative peace and -quiet. An excellent man, by name ----, an officer in the American army, -made himself known to me, considering, as he afterwards told me, his -commission to be a sufficient right of introduction to any body. He was -a native of Boston, and was returning to it, after an absence of -_fourteen years_. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Sunday, 14th._ - -The morning was beautifully bright and clear. While dressing, heard the -breakfast-bell, and received sundry intimations to descend and eat; -however, I declined leaving my cabin until I had done dressing, which I -achieved very comfortably at leisure, during which time the ship -weathered Point Judith, where the Atlantic comes in to the shore between -the termination of Long Island and the southern extremity of Rhode -Island. The water is generally rough here, and I had been prophesied an -agreeable little fit of sea-sickness; but no such matter,--we passed it -very smoothly, and presently stopped at Newport, on Rhode Island, to -leave and take up passengers. The wind was keen and bracing; the morning -beautifully bright and sunny; the blue waters, all curled and crisped -under the arrow-like wind, broke into a thousand sapphire ridges tipped -with silver foam, that drove away in sparkling showers before the bitter -breath of the north. We entered Providence river in a few moments, and -steamed along between Rhode Island and the main land, until we reached -Providence, a town on the shore of Rhode Island, where we were to leave -the boat, and pursue our route by coach to Boston. I walked on deck with -Captain ---- for an hour after breakfast, breasting the wind, which -almost drove us back each time we turned up the deck towards the prow. -After my walk, went in, righted my hair, which the wind had dressed _à -la frantic_, and came and sat in the sun with Brewster's book,--which I -like mainly,--till we reached Providence. The boat was so heavily laden -that she drew an enormous quantity of water, and was fairly aground -once, as we were nearing the pier. When the crowd of passengers had -ebbed away, and we had seen them pack themselves into their stages and -drive off, we adjourned to our exclusive extra, which, to our great -sorrow, could not take all our luggage after all. The distance from -Providence to Boston is forty miles; but we were six hours and a half -doing it over an excellent road. The weather was beautiful, but the -country still sad and wintry-looking. The spring is backwarder here than -in New York by full three weeks: the trees were all bare and leafless, -except the withered foliage of the black oaks; and the face of the -country, with its monotonous rises, and brooks flowing through flat -fields, reminded me of parts of Cumberland. Every now and then, however, -we came to a little lakelet, or, as they call them here, pond, of the -holiest deepest dark-blue water, sparkling like a magic sapphire, -against smooth, bright, golden, sandy shores, and screened by vivid -thickets of cedar bushes. They were like little bits of fairy-land, and -relieved the wearisomeness of the road. As we approached Boston, the -country assumed a more cultivated aspect,--the houses in the road-side -villages were remarkably neat, and pretty, and cottage-like,--the land -was well farmed; and the careful cultivation, and stone walls, which -perform the part of hedges here, together with the bleak look of the -distances on each side, made me think of Scotland. We entered Boston -through a long road with houses on each side, making one fancy one's -self in the town long before one reaches it. We did not arrive until -half-past six. Went to my own room and dressed for dinner. When I came -to the drawing-room, found the ----s: dear ---- was half crazy at seeing -us again. After dinner, came to my room with her, and righted all my -clothes, and established myself; after tea, returned to the same work, -and, at about half-past ten, came to bed. Here we are in a new -place!--How desolate and cheerless this constant changing of homes is! -the Scripture saith, "There is no rest to the wicked;" and truly I never -felt so convinced of my own wickedness as I have done since I have been -in this country. - - -_Monday, 15th._ - -Went over to the theatre to rehearse Fazio. Mr. ----, however, met us at -the door, and assured me there was no necessity for my doing so till -to-morrow. ---- came early to see me, and stayed all the morning. Mr. ----- called this morning,--I was quite glad to see him,--and Mrs. ----, -whom I thought beautiful. Tried to finish letter to ----, but was -interrupted about a dozen times. At about half-past four, the horses -came to the door. The afternoon was lovely, and the roads remarkably -good: I had a fine handsome spirited horse, who pulled my hands to -pieces for want of being properly curbed. We rode out to _Cambridge_, -the University of Massachusetts, about three miles distant from Boston. -The village round it, with its white cottages, and meeting roads, and -the green lawns and trees round the college, reminded me of England. We -rode on to a place called Mount Auburn, a burial-ground which the -Bostonians take great pride in, and which is one of the lions of the -place. The entrance is a fine solid granite gateway, in a species of -_Egyptian_ style, with this inscription engraved over it: "Then shall -the dust return to the earth as it was, and the spirit shall return unto -God, who gave it."[94] The whole place is at present in an unfinished -state, but its capabilities are very great, and, as far as it has -progressed, they have been taken every advantage of. The enclosure is of -considerable extent,--about one hundred acres,--and contains several -high hills and deep ravines, in the bottom of which are dark, still, -melancholy-looking meres. The whole is cut, with much skill and good -taste, by roads for carriages, and small narrow footpaths. The various -avenues are distinguished by the names of trees, as, Linden walk, Pine -walk, Beech walk; and already two or three white monuments are seen -glimmering palely through the woods, reminding one of the solemn use to -which this ground is consecrated, which, for its beauty, might seem a -pleasure-garden instead of a place of graves. Mr. ---- delighted me very -much: he told me he was looking for a plot of earth in this cemetery -which he intended to dedicate to poor English people, who might come out -here, and die without the means of being decently laid to rest. We -looked, with this view, at a patch of ground on the slope of a high -hill, well shadowed over with trees, and descending to a great depth to -a dark pond, shining in the hollow like an emerald. 'Twas sad and -touching to gaze at that earth, with the thought that amidst strangers, -and in a strange land, the pity of a fellow-countryman should here allot -to his brethren a grave in the quiet and solemn beauty of this hallowed -ground. Our time was limited; so, after lingering for a short space -along the narrow pathways that wind among dwellings of the dead, we rode -home. We reached Boston at a quarter to seven. My father and D---- were -already gone to the theatre. I dressed, and went over myself -immediately. The play was begun: the house was not very full. The -managers have committed the greatest piece of mismanagement -imaginable,--they advertise my father alone in Hamlet to-night, and -instead of making me play alone to-morrow night, and so securing our -attraction singly before we act together, we are _both_ to act to-morrow -in Fazio, which circumstance, of course, kept the house thin to-night. -My father's Hamlet is very beautiful. 'Tis curious, that when I see him -act I have none of the absolute feeling of contempt for the profession -that I have while acting myself. What he does appears, indeed, like the -work of an artist; and though I always lament that he loves it as he -does, and has devoted so much care and labour to it as he has, yet I -certainly respect acting more while I am seeing him act than at any -other time.[95] Yet surely, after all, acting is nonsense, and as I sit -here opposite the churchyard, it seems to me strange to think, that when -I come down into that darkness, I shall have eaten bread, during my -life, earned by such means. The Ophelia was perfectly beautiful: I think -I scarcely ever saw a more faultless piece of mortality in point of -outward loveliness. The eyes and brow of an angel, serene and calm, yet -bright and piercing; a mouth chiselled like a Grecian piece of -sculpture, with an expression of infinite refinement; fair round arms -and hands, a beautifully-moulded foot, and a figure that seemed to me -perfectly proportioned. It did not perhaps convey to me the idea of such -absolute loveliness as ----'s figure did; but altogether I think I never -saw a fairer woman--it was delightful lo look at her.[96] The audience -are, upon the whole, cold;--very still and attentive, however, and when -they do warm, it is certainly very effectually, for they shout and -hurrah like mad. - - * * * * * - - -_Wednesday, 27th._ - -Somebody very civilly has sent me that beautiful book, Rogers's Italy: -it set me wild again with my old frenzy for the south of Europe. Wrote -to ----; after dinner, practised for an hour; at half-past five, off to -the theatre. The house was crammed: the play, the Stranger. It is quite -comical to see the people in the morning at the box-office: our window -is opposite to it, and 'tis a matter of the greatest amusement to me to -watch them. They collect in crowds for upwards of an hour before the -doors open, and when the bolts are withdrawn, there is a yelling and -shouting as though the town were on fire. In they rush, thumping and -pummelling one another, and not one comes out without rubbing his head, -or his back, or showing a piteous rent in his clothes. I was surprised -to see men of a very low order pressing foremost to obtain boxes, but I -find that they sell them again at an enormous increase to others who -have not been able to obtain any; and, the better to carry on their -traffic, these worthies smear their clothes with molasses, and sugar, -etc., in order to prevent any person of more decent appearance, or whose -clothes are worth a cent, from coming near the box-office: this is -ingenious, and deserves a reward. Our other window looks out upon a -large churchyard, in the midst of which stands a cenotaph, erected by -Franklin in honour of his father. Between the view of the play-house, -and the view of the burial-ground, my contemplations are curiously -tinged. This house (the Tremont) is admirably quiet and comfortable. - - -_Thursday, 18th._ - -After breakfast, went to rehearsal,--the School for Scandal,--however, -half the people were not there, so the rehearsal was nought. Came home, -and at half-past eleven rode out; the day was beautifully bright: we -rode to a beautiful little mere, called Jamaica Pond, through some -country very like Scotland. We turned from the road into a gentleman's -estate, and rode up a green rise into an enclosed field, which commanded -an extensive view of the country below. But the spring tarries still, -and though her smile is in the sky, the trees are leafless, and -blossomless, and wintry-looking still. We came in by a pretty village -called Roxbury, about two miles and a half distant from Boston: here we -stopped to get a nosegay for my Lady Teazle, at a very pretty -green-house, kept by a mechanic, who has devoted his leisure hours to -the pleasurable and profitable pursuits of gardening. We returned to -town at about half-past two. I ran into the drawing-room, and found ---- -sitting with my father. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Saturday, 20th._ - -Walked up to the State House. The day was any thing but agreeable; a -tremendous high wind (easterly of course,--'tis the only wind they have -in Boston), and a burning sun tempered only by clouds of dust, in which, -every two minutes, the whole world,--at least, as much as we could see -of it,--was shrouded. On entering the hall of the State House, we -confronted Chantry's statue of Washington, which stands in a recess -immediately opposite the entrance. I saw that, how many years ago, in -his study at Pimlico! We proceeded to mount into the cupola, whence a -very extensive view is obtained of the city and its surroundings,--and a -cruel height it was! I began it at full speed, like a wise woman, but -before I got to the top was so out of breath, that I could hardly -breathe at all: defend me from such altitudes!--and, after all, the day -was hazy and not favourable for our purpose; the wind came in through -the windows of the lantern like a tornado; and, as my father observed, -after the exertion of ascending, 'twas the very best place in the world -for catching one's death of cold. We came down as quickly as we could. -At about twelve, we rode to Mount Auburn. The few days of sunshine since -we were last there have clothed the whole earth with delicate purple and -white blossoms, a little resembling the wood anemone, but growing close -to the soil, and making one think of violets with their pale purple -colour: they have no fragrance whatever. We afterwards rode on to a -beautiful little lake called Fresh Pond, along whose margin we followed -a pretty woody path: a high bank covered with black-looking pines rose -immediately on our right, and on our left the clear waters of the -rippling lake came dancing to and fro along the pebbly shore, which -shone bright and golden under their crystal folds. We stood with our -hats off to receive the soft wind upon our brows, and to listen to the -chiming of the water upon the beach, the most delicious sound in all -nature's orchestra. We then turned back and rode home. By the by, on our -way out to Mount Auburn we took the Charleston road, and rode over -Bunker Hill. They have begun a monument upon the spot where General -Warren was killed, to commemorate the event. I felt strangely as I rode -over that ground. Mr. ---- was the only American of our party, but, -though in the minority, he had rather the best of it. And this is where -so much English blood was shed, thought I; for, after all, 'twas all -English blood,--do as they can, they can never get rid of their stock; -and deeply as oppression and resistance have dug the grave in which all -kindred feeling seems for a time to have been buried,--'tis only, I -believe and trust, for a time,--buried in blood and fierce warfare, to -spring up again in peace and mutual respect. England and America ought -not to be enemies, 'tis unnatural while the same language is spoken in -both lands. Until Americans have found a tongue for themselves, they -must still be the children of old England, for they speak the words her -children speak by the fireside of her homes. Oh, England! noble, noble -land! They may be proud of many things, these inheritors of a new world, -but of nothing more than that they are descended from Englishmen; that -their fathers once trod the soil whereon has grown more goodness, more -greatness, more beauty, and more truth, than on any other earth under -God's sun. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At half-past four, we went to dine with the ----s. Their house is very -pretty and comfortable. When first we went in, we were shown into a -couple of drawing-rooms, in which there were beautiful marble copies of -one or two of the famous statues. One of Canova's dancing girls, the -glorious Diana, a reclining figure of Cleopatra, an exquisite -thing,--the crouching Venus, and the lovely antique Cupid and Psyche. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -'Tis strange that feelings should pass from our hearts and minds as -clouds pass from the face of heaven, as though they had never been -there;--yet not so, after all; they do not pass so tracklessly,--they do -leave faint shadows behind; they leave a darker colour upon the face of -all existence: sometimes they leave a sad conviction of wasted -capabilities, and time, precious time, expended in vain. Yet not in -vain: even though our feelings change,--pass, perhaps, to our own -consciousness--cease altogether,--'tis not in vain--life is going -on--experience and solemn wisdom may come with the coming time; and -existence is, after all, but a series of experiments upon our spiritual -nature. Our trials vary with our years; and though we deem (too often -rightly) that suffering and disappointment are but barren thorns, -whereon grows neither fruit nor flower, 'tis our sin that they are so, -for they are designed to bear an excellent harvest. "Sweet are the uses -of adversity;" so he has said who knew all things, and so indeed to the -wise they are. - - -_Tuesday, 30th._ - -We rode down to the "Chelsea Ferry," and crossed over the Charles river, -where the shore opposite Boston bears the name of that refuge for -damaged marine stores. The breath of the sea was delicious, as we -crossed the water in one of the steam-boats constantly plying to and -fro; and on the other side, as we rode towards the beach, it came -greeting us delightfully from the wide waters. When we started from -Boston, the weather was intensely hot, and the day promised to be like -the day before yesterday, a small specimen of the dog-days. We had about -a five miles' ride through some country that reminded me of Scotland: -now and then the dreary landscape was relieved by the golden branches of -a willow tree, and the delicate pale peach blossoms, and tiny white buds -in the apple orchards, peeping over some stone dyke, like a glance over -the wall from the merry laughing spring. So we reached Chelsea beach, a -curving, flat, sandy shore, forming one side of a small bay which runs -up between this land and a rocky peninsula that stretches far out into -the ocean, called Nahant. At the extremity of the basin lay glimmering a -while sunny town, by name _Lynn_;--'tis quite absurd the starts and -stares which the familiar names cause one for ever to make here. This -small bay is beautifully smooth and peaceful; the shore is a shelving -reach of hard fine sand, nearly two miles long, and the wild waves are -warded off in their violence from it by the rocky barrier of Nahant. How -happy I was to see the beautiful sea once more,--to be once more -galloping over the golden sands,--to be once more wondering at and -worshipping the grandeur and loveliness of this greatest of God's -marvellous works. How I do love the sea!--my very soul seems to gather -energy, and life, and light, from its power, its vastness, its bold -bright beauty, its fresh invigorating airs, its glorious, triumphant, -rushing sound. The thin, thin rippling waves came like silver leaves -spreading themselves over the glittering sand, with just a little, -sparkling, pearly edge, like the cream of a bright glass of champagne. -Close along the shore the water was of that pale transparent green -colour, that blends so delicately with the horizon, sometimes at -sunset; but out beyond, towards the great deep, it wore that serene and -holiest blue that surrounds one in mid-ocean, when the earth is nearly -as far below as the heaven seems high above us. For a short time my -spirits seemed like uncaged birds; I rejoiced with all my might,--I -could have shouted aloud for delight; I galloped far along the sand, as -close into the water's restless edge as my horse would bear to go. But -the excitement died away, and then came vividly back the time when last -I stood upon the sea beach at Cramond, and lost myself in listening to -that delicious sound of the chiming waters--I was many years younger -then. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The end of my ride was sadder than the beginning, for at first my senses -alone took cognizance of what surrounded me, and afterwards my soul -looked on it, and it grew dark. We rode two miles along the beach, and -stopped at a little wooden hut, where, Mr. ---- told me, sportsmen, who -come to shoot plover along the flats by the shore, resort to dress their -dinners and refresh themselves. Here we dismounted: lay in the sun on -the roof with the fresh, sweet, blessed breath of heaven fanning us. My -horse thought proper to break his bridle and walk himself off through -the fields: they followed him with corn, and various inducements; ---- -and I, meantime, ran down to the water, collecting interesting relics, -muscle shells, quartz, pebbles, and sea-weed; finally, we remounted and -returned home. The weather had changed completely, and become quite -bleak and cold: the variations of the climate in this place are -terrible. As we rode down a pleasant lane towards the Salem road, we met -a large crowd of country-people busily employed in raising the framework -of a house. In this part of the country, the poorer class of people -build their houses, or rather, the wooden frames of their houses, -entirely before they set them up. When the skeleton is entirely -finished, they call together all their neighbours to assist in the -raising, which is an event of much importance, and generally ends in a -merry-making. The filling up the outline of the habitation, which they -do with boards here, is an after work: the frame seems to be the -material part of the building, and slight enough too, I thought, for -protection against these bitter east winds. We reached home at about -half-past two. The play was Much Ado about Nothing: the house was spoilt -by the fair which the ladies have been getting up for the blind here, -and which was lighted and open for inspection previous to to-morrow, -when the sale is to take place. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -LINES. - - * * * and I - Am reading, too, my book of memory: - With eyelids closed, over the crested foam, - And the blue marbled sea, I seek my home. - All present things forgotten, on the shore - Of the romantic Forth I stand once more; - Once more I hear the waves' harmonious strife; - Once more, upon the mountain coast of Fife, - I see the checker'd lights and shadows fall. - Upon the sand crumbles the ruin'd wall - That guards no more the desolate demesne, - And the deserted mansion. High between - The summer clouds the Ochil hills arise; - And far, far, like a shadow in the skies, - Ben Lomond towers aloft in sovereign height. - O, Cramond beach! are thy sands still as bright-- - Thy waters still as sunny,--thy wild shore - As lonely and as lovely as of yore?-- - Haunts of my happy time! as wandering back - Along my life, on memory's faithful track, - How fair ye seem,--how fair, how dear ye are! - Ye need not to be gazed at from afar; - Deceptive distance lends no brighter hue; - Your beauty and your peacefulness were true. - Not yours the charms from which we wearied stray, - And own them only when they're far away. - O, be ye blest for all the happiness - Which I have known in your wild loneliness. - Old sea, whose voice yet chimes upon my ear,-- - Old paths, whose every winding step was dear,-- - Dark rocky promontories,--echoing caves, - Worn hollow by the white feet of the waves,-- - Blue lake-like waters,--legend-haunted isle, - Over ye all, bright be the summer's smile; - And gently fall the winter on your breast, - Haunts of my youth, my memory's place of rest. - - -_Wednesday, May 1st._ - -Mr. ---- came in the morning, and I settled to call down at eleven for -Mrs. ---- to go to the fair. We drove to Faneuil Hall, a building -opposite the market, which was appropriated to the uses of the fair; but -the crowd was so dense round the steps, that we found it impossible to -approach them, and wisely gave up the attempt, determining to take our -drive, and then come back and try our later fortune. We drove down to -the Chelsea beach. The day was bleak and cold, though bright, with a -cutting east wind. After taking a good race along the bright creaming -edge, we returned to the carriage, and drove into town again to the -fair, which we managed at last to enter. The whole thing was crowd, -crush, and confusion, to my bewildered eyes. We got upon a platform -behind the stalls, and squeezed our way to Mrs. ----'s shop, where my -father had desired me to buy him a card-case, which I did. I found ---- -installed in her stall. ---- joined us, and Mr. ----, who drew me away -to his wife's table, where I bought one or two things, and, having -emptied my purse, came away. After dinner, Mr. ---- came in: he showed -us some things he had bought at the fair. I thought the prices enormous, -but the money is well spent in itself, or rather, on its ultimate -object, and the immediate return is of no import. - - -_Thursday, 2d._ - -After breakfast, went over to rehearsal; at half-past eleven, went out -to ride: the day was heavenly, bright, and mild, with a full, soft, -sweet spring breeze blowing life and health over one. The golden -willow-trees were all in flower, and the air, as we rode by them, was -rich with their fragrance. The sky was as glorious as the sky of -Paradise: the whole world was full of loveliness; and my spirits were in -most harmonious tune with all its beauty. We rode along the chiming -beach, talking gravely of many matters, temporal and spiritual; and when -we reached the pines, I dismounted, entreated for a scrap of paper, -and, in the miserable little parlour of this miserable little mansion, -sat down and scribbled some miserable doggrel to ease my heart. How -beautiful the scene around me was! the bright boundless sea, smooth as a -sapphire, except at the restless rippling edge; the serene holy sky -looking down so earnestly and gently on the flowering earth; the -reviving breeze, dipping like a bird its fresh wings into the -water,--how beautiful all things did seem to me,--how full of witnesses -of the great power and goodness that created them. Why is it that clouds -ever come between us and God when there are seasons like this, when we -seem to sit at his very feet,--when his glory and his mercy seem the -atmosphere we are breathing, and our whole existence is lifted, for a -time, into the reality of all we hope and pray for? Yet these are but -passing emotions: they are not, indeed, the very spirit of God,--they -are but reflections of his image, caught from the glorious mirror of -nature. The sky becomes cloudy,--the sea stormy; the blossoming and the -bearing seasons pass away, and winter comes apace, with withered aspect, -and bitter biting breath; the face of the universe becomes dark, and the -trust, and faith, and joy of our souls, fade into doubt, disbelief, and -sorrow. Infirmity and imperfection pluck us back from our heavenward -flight, and the weight of our mortality drags us down fast, fast again -towards the earth. These fair outward creatures, and the blessed -emotions they excite, will pass away,--must--do pass away,--and where is -the abiding revelation of God to which we shall turn? It lives for ever, -in the still burning light of a strong and steadfast soul; in the -resolute will and high unshaken purpose of good; in the quiet, calm, -collected might of reason; in the undying warmth and brightness of a -pure and holy heart. - - * * * * * - -My ride did me ten thousand goods. As we were riding through Mrs. ----'s -farm, a little boy came running to meet me with his hand full of -beautiful flowers, which he stood upon tiptoe to thrust into my hand, -and, without waiting to be thanked, rushed back into the house. I was -delighted: the flowers were exquisite, and the manner of the gift very -enchanting. Altogether, I do not know when I have been so completely -filled with pleasurable emotions as during this ride. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -LINES. - - To the smooth beach, the silver sea - Comes rippling in a thousand smiles, - And back again runs murmuringly, - To break around yon distant isles. - The sunshine, through a floating veil - Of golden clouds, looks o'er the wave, - And gilds, far off, the outline pale, - Of many a rocky cape and cave, - The breath of spring comes balmily - Over the newly-blossom'd earth; - The smile of spring, on sea, and sky, - Is shedding light, and love, and mirth. - I would that thou wert by my side, - As underneath the rosy bloom - Of flowering orchard trees I ride, - And drink their fragrant fresh perfume; - I would that thou wert by my side, - To feel this soft air on thy brow, - And listen to the chiming tide - Along that smooth shore breaking now; - I would that thou wert here to bless, - As I do now, the love and care, - That, with such wealth of loveliness, - Have made life's journeying-land so fair. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -I have taken several enormous rides round Boston, and am more and more -delighted with its environs, which are now in full flush of blossoming, -as sweet, and fresh, and lovely as any thing can be. On Saturday, rode -to the Blue Hills, a distance of upwards of twelve miles. The roads -round this place are almost as good as roads in England, and the country -altogether reminds me of that dear little land.[97] These Blue Hills -were, a few years ago, a wilderness of forest--the favourite resort of -rattlesnakes; but the trees have been partly cleared, and though 'tis -still a wild desolate region, clothed with firs, and uncheered by a -human habitation, its more savage tenants have disappeared with the -thick coverts in which they nestled, and we rode to the summit of the -highest hill without seeing any thing in the shape of Eve's enemy. At -the top, by the by, we did find some species of building in decay and -ruin. Whoever perched himself up there had no mind to be overlooked, and -must have been fond of fresh air. The view from the mountain is -magnificent, yet I do not believe the elevation to be very -extraordinary; although, as I looked down, it seemed to me as though the -world was stretched at my feet; and I thought of the temptation of our -Saviour. The various villages, with their blossoming orchards, looked -like patches of a snow-scene; the river wound, like a silver snake, all -round the fields; the little lakes lay diminished to drops of bright -blue light; and the lesser mountains rose below us like the waves of a -dark sea. The whole was strange and awful to me--the savage loneliness -of the place, its apparent remoteness from the earth, and its walkers, -filled me with a solemn sensation. Had I been there alone, I do not know -a place where I should sooner have expected to meet some of the -wandering spirits of mid-air,--shapes, and sights, and beings of another -order from those of the world, that lay like a map below me. The -mountain itself is formed of granite, of which large slabs appeared -through the turf and brushwood. I looked in vain for what I found in -such abundance on the Portland hill, the sweet wild thyme. I thought I -should find some of it among the stony rifts, where it loves to cling, -but I was disappointed. Indeed, I met with a much more severe -disappointment than that. The turf was thickly strewn with clumps of -violets, the very same in form and colour as our own sweet wood violet. -I stooped in an ecstasy to gather them, but found they were totally -senseless--mere pretences of violets. A violet without fragrance! a -wild one, too!--the thing's totally unnatural. I flung the little purple -cheat away in a rage. I have since found cowslips with the same entire -absence of fragrance. The heat and cold of this climate chill or wither -every thing; and almost all the flowers which are most common and sweet, -growing in the moist soil of England, seem reared with difficulty here, -and lose their great fragrance, their soul, as it were, under the -extreme influences of this sky.[98] There were many wild things growing -on this mountain, that for beauty, and delicacy of form and colour, -would have found honourable place in our conservatories; but they had -not the slightest perfume, and I took no delight in them. A scentless -flower is a monster; and though I acknowledge with due admiration the -pale beauty of that queen of flowers, the camelia, I never see it in its -cold pearl-like pride of bloom, that it does not strike me like a fine -lady--an artificial creature, fair indeed to behold, but without the -very property of a flower--sweetness. Oh, the lilies of the valley,--the -primroses,--the violets,--the sweet, sweet hawthorn,--the fresh fragrant -blush rose,--the purple lilac bloom,--the silver serynga,--the faint -breathing hyacinths,--the golden cowslips, of a morning, at the close of -May in England!--the fulness of sweetness that loads the temperate air, -as it breathes over the fresh lawns of that flower garden! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I took another long ride to a quarry ten miles distant from Boston, -whence the granite, which is much used in Boston for building, is -drawn. I started at six in the morning, and rode about twenty miles -before breakfast, which I think was a piece of virtue bordering upon -heroism: to be sure, I had my reward, for any thing so sweet as the -whole world, at about half-past six, I never beheld. The dew was yet -fresh upon tree and flower,--the roads were shady and cool,--the dust -had not yet been disturbed; a mild, soft, full breeze blew over the -flowery earth, and the rosy apple blossoms stirred on the rocking boughs -against the serene and smiling sky. They have in this country neither -nightingales, thrushes, linnets, nor blackbirds, at least, none with the -same notes as ours; but every now and then, from the snowy cherry trees, -there came a wild snatch of trilling melody, like the clear ringing song -of a canary bird. My companion did not know the minstrel by his note; -but I never heard a more brilliant and joyful strain, or one more fitted -to the bright hour of opening day,--always excepting the lark's, that -triumphant embodied spirit of song.[99] The blackbird's song is to me -the sweetest in the world,--sad and soft, and rich as the sunsets -through which it is heard. The quarry which we visited is an extensive -vein of fine dark-coloured granite. We dismounted, and walked among the -workmen to see them at their various processes. This quarry, and one at -a short distance, merely supply the blocks of granite, which, being -detached from the main stone, are piled upon cars, and sent down an -inclined plane to the rail-road, by means of a powerful chain, which -acts at once as a support and check, suffering the load to proceed -slowly down the declivity, and at the same time sending up from the -bottom, upon another track, the empty car from which the granite has -been unloaded below, as the buckets of a well are drawn up and down. A -very serious accident occurred here, by the by, to a party of gentlemen, -among whom Mr. ---- was one. They had placed themselves in the empty car -at the bottom of the inclined plane, and were being slowly drawn up, as -the car loaded with granite descended on the other track. Just as they -were approaching the summit, the chain by which the car was drawn up -gave way, and it rolled backwards down the plane with fearful velocity, -and, starting off the track of the rail-road, pitched down into a ravine -full of rocks and blocks of granite, over which the road passes like a -bridge at the foot of the quarry. I believe one of them was killed, and -the others most terribly injured. The rough blocks of granite are -conveyed by horses, in the same rail-road cars, to smaller quarries -below, where they are wrought and shaped for their appointed uses. After -looking down from the summit of the granite rock upon the country which -lay smiling for many a sunny mile of flowery earth and sparkling sea -below, and wandering about the works, which are interesting and curious, -we remounted, and rode home over turfy wood-paths, through tangled -thickets of pine, fir, and cedar, whose warm fragrance was beginning to -be drawn forth by the morning sun. We disturbed in our path a poor -woodcock, who was sitting with her young: it was a pity to see the poor -thing flutter about her treasure, and go trailing a little way into the -brush-wood, to entice us away from them. Poor mother! what a tempest of -fear and agony was in your downy breast. I was very sorry we had -frightened her, poor creature. The country we rode through was extremely -pretty,--so, indeed, I think all the country round Boston is; the only -deficiency is water,--running water, I mean; for there are several -beautiful pools in this vicinity,--and, turn which way you will, the -silver shield of the sea shining against the horizon is a lovely feature -of the landscape. But there are no rivulets, no brooks, no sparkling -singing water-courses to refresh one's senses, as one rides across the -fields and through the woodlands. ---- called on us on Sunday last. He -is very enchanting: I wish it had been my good fortune to see him -oftener. One of the _great men_ of this country, he would have been a -first-rate man all the world over; and, like all first-rate people, -there is a simplicity and a total want of pretension about him that is -very delightful. He gave us a description of Niagara, which did what he -complained no description of it ever does,--conveyed to us an exact idea -of the natural position and circumstances which render these falls so -wonderful; whereas, most describers launch forth into vague and -untangible rhapsodies, which, after all, convey no express idea of any -thing but water in the abstract, he gave me, by his few simple words, a -more _real_ impression of the stupendous cataract than all that was ever -writ or spoken of waterfalls before, not excepting Byron's Terni. Last -Saturday, I dined at ----'s; where, for my greater happiness, I sat -between ---- and ----. I remember especially two bright things uttered; -the one by the one, the other by the other of these worthies. Mr. ----, -speaking of Knowles's Hunchback, said, "Well, after all, it's no great -matter. The author evidently understands stage effect and dramatic -situations, and so on; but as for the writing, it's by no means as good -as Shakspeare." I looked at the man in amazement, and suggested to him -that Shakspeare did not grow upon every bush. Presently, Mr. ---- began -a sentence by assuring me that he was a worshipper of Shakspeare; and -ended it by saying that Othello was disgusting, King Lear ludicrous, and -Romeo and Juliet childish nonsense: whereat I swallowed half a pint of -water, and nearly my tumbler too, and remained silent; for what could I -say? However, in spite of this, I owe ---- some gratitude, for he -brought ---- to see me the other day, whose face is more like that of a -good and intellectual man than almost any face I ever saw. The climate -of this place is dreadful! The night before last, the weather was so -warm, that, with my window open, I was obliged to take half the clothes -off my bed: last night was so cold, that, with window shut, and -additional covering, I could scarce get to sleep for the cold. This is -terrible, and forms a serious drawback upon the various attractions of -Boston; and to me it has many. The houses are like English houses: the -Common is like Constitution Hill; Beacon Street is like a bit of Park -Lane; and Summer Street, now that the chestnut trees are in bloom, is -perfectly beautiful. But for the climate, I should like to live in -Boston very much: my stay here has been delightful. It is in itself a -lovely place, and the country round it is charming. The people are -intellectual, and have been most abundantly good-natured and kind to me. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I have finished ----'s sermons, which are most excellent. I think he is -one of the purest English prose-writers now living. I revere him -greatly; yet I do not think his denial of the Trinity is consistent with -the argument by which he maintains the truth of the miracles. I have -begun the Diary of an Ennuyée again: that book is most enchanting to -me,--merely to read the names of the places in which one's imagination -goes sunning itself for ever, is delightful. - - -_New York._ - -I have seen ----, who in his outward man bears but little token of his -inward greatness. Miss ---- had prepared me for an exterior over which -debility and sickness had triumphed now for some years; but, thought I, -there must be eyes and a brow; and there the spirit will surely be seen -upon its throne. But the eyes were small grey eyes, with an expression -which struck me at first as more akin to shrewdness of judgment, than -genius and the loftier qualities of the mind; and though the brow and -forehead were those of an intellectual person, they had neither the -expanse nor conformation I had imagined. The subject of our -conversation, though sufficiently natural for him to choose, addressing -one of my craft, did not appear to me to be a happy one for his own -powers,--perhaps I thought so because I differed from him. He talked -about the stage and acting in as unreal, and, in my opinion, mistaken, a -manner as possible. Had he expressed himself unknowingly about acting, -that would not have surprised me; for he can have no means of judging of -it, not having frequented the theatre for some years past: and those who -have the best means of forming critical judgments upon dramatic subjects -for the most part talk arrant nonsense about them. Lawrence was the only -man I ever heard speak about the stage who did so with understanding and -accuracy. I have heard the very cleverest men in England talk the -greatest stuff imaginable about actors and acting. But to return to -----: he said he had not thought much upon the subject, but that it -appeared to him feasible and highly desirable to take detached passages -and scenes from the finest dramatic writers, and have them well -declaimed in comparatively private assemblies,--this as a wholesome -substitute for the stage, of which he said he did not approve; and he -thought this the best method of obtaining the intellectual pleasure and -profit to be derived from fine dramatic works, without the illusion and -excitement belonging to theatrical exhibitions. My horror was so -unutterable at this proposition, and my amazement so extreme that he -should make it, that I believe my replies to it were all but incoherent. -What! take one of Shakspeare's plays bit by bit, break it piece-meal, in -order to make recitals of it!--destroy the marvellous unity of one of -his magnificent works, to make patches of declamation! If the stage is -evil, put it away, and put away with it those writings which properly -belong to it, and to nothing else; but do not take dramatic -compositions, things full of present action and emotion, to turn them -into recitations,--and mutilated ones too. Get other poems to declaim, -no matter how vivid or impassioned in their descriptions, so their form -be not dramatic. It is not to be supposed that the effect proper and -natural to a fine dramatic conception can be preserved when the language -is merely declaimed without the assistance of distance, dress, scenic -effects,--all the appertainings that the author has reckoned upon to -work out his idea. ---- mentioned the dagger soliloquy in Macbeth, as an -instance which would admit of being executed after his idea; saying, -that that, well read by any person in a drawing-room, would have all the -effect necessary or desirable. I remember hearing my aunt Siddons read -the scenes of the witches in Macbeth; and, while doing so, was obliged -to cover my eyes, that her velvet gown, modern cap, and spectacles might -not disturb the wild and sublime images that her magnificent voice and -recitation were conjuring up around me. If a man professes to tell you a -story, no matter what,--say the story of Romeo and Juliet,--and sits in -a modern drawing-room, in modern costume, it matters not,--_he_ is no -part of his story,--you do not connect him with his narrative,--his -appearance in no way clashes with your train of thought,--you are not -thinking of him, but of the people he is talking about. But if a man in -a modern drawing-room, and in modern costume, were to get up, and begin -reciting the balcony scene in Romeo and Juliet, I think the case would -be altered. However, never having heard such a proposal before, I had -not thought much about it, and only felt a little stunned at the idea of -Shakspeare's _histories_ being broken into fragments.[100] - - -_Thursday._ - -At a little after ten, ---- came to take us to see the savages. We drove -down, D----, my father, he, and I, to their hotel. We found, even at -that early hour, the portico, passage, and staircase, thronged with -gazers upon the same errand as ourselves. We made our way, at length, -into the presence-chamber; a little narrow dark room, with all the -windows shut, crowded with people, come to stare at their fellow wild -beasts. Upon a sofa sat Black Hawk, a diminutive shrivelled-looking old -man, with an appearance of much activity in his shrunk limbs, and a -calmness and dignified self-composure in his manner, which, in spite of -his want of size and comeliness, was very striking. Next to him sat a -young man, the adopted son of his brother the prophet, whose height and -breadth, and peculiar gravity of face and deportment, were those of a -man nearly forty, whereas he is little more than half that age. The -undisturbed seriousness of his countenance was explained to me by _their -keeper_, thus: he had, it seems, the day before, indulged rather too -freely in the delights of champagne, and was suffering just retribution -in the shape of a headach,--unjust retribution, I should say, for in his -savage experience no such sweet bright poison had ever before been -recorded, _I guess_, by the after pain it causes. Next to him sat Black -Hawk's son, a noble big young creature, like a fine Newfoundland puppy, -with a handsome scornful face, which yet exhibited more familiarity and -good-humoured amusement at what was going on than any of the rest. His -hair was powdered on the top, and round the ears, with a bright -vermilion-coloured powder, and knots of scarlet berries or beads, I -don't know which, hung like ear-rings on each side of his face. A string -of glass beads was tied round his naked throat; he was wrapped in a -large blanket, which completely concealed his form, except his legs and -feet, which were clothed in common leather shoes, and a species of -deerskin gaiter. He seemed much alive to what was going on, conversed -freely in his own language with his neighbour, and laughed once or twice -aloud, which rather surprised me, as I had heard so much of their -immovable gravity. The costume of the other young man was much the same, -except that his hair was not adorned. Black Hawk himself had on a blue -cloth surtout, scarlet leggings, a black silk neck-handkerchief, and -ear-rings. His appearance altogether was not unlike that of an old -French gentleman. Beside him, on a chair, sat one of his warriors, -wrapped in a blanket, with a cotton handkerchief whisped round his head. -At one of the windows apart from their companions, with less courtesy in -their demeanour, and a great deal of sullen savageness in their serious -aspects, sat the great warrior, and the prophet of the tribe--the latter -is Black Hawk's brother. I cannot express the feeling of commiseration -and disgust which the whole scene gave me. That men such as ourselves, -creatures with like feelings, like perceptions, should be brought, as -strange animals at a show, to be gazed at the livelong day by succeeding -shoals of gaping folk, struck me as totally unfitting. The cold dignity -of the old chief, and the malignant scowl of the prophet, expressed the -indecency and the irksomeness of such a situation. Then, to look at -those two young savages, with their fine muscular proportions, and think -of them cooped up the whole horrible day long, in this hot prison-house -full of people, made my heart ach. How they must loathe the sight of -these narrow walls, and the sound of these strange voices; how they must -sicken for their unmeasured range of wilderness! The gentleman who -seemed to have the charge of them pressed me to go up and shake hands -with them, as every body else in the room did; but I refused to do so -from literal compassion, and unwillingness to add to the wearisome toil -they were made to undergo. As we were departing, however, they -reiterated their entreaties that we would go up and shake hands with -them,--so I did. Black Hawk and the young men received our courtesy with -great complaisance; but when we went to the great warrior and the -prophet, they seemed exceedingly loath to receive our hands, the latter -particularly, who had, moreover, one of the very worst expressions I -think I ever saw upon a human countenance. I instinctively withdrew my -hand; but when my father offered his, the savage's face relaxed into a -smile, and he met his greeting readily. I wonder what pleased him about -my father's appearance, whether it was his large size or not. I had a -silver vinaigrette in my pouch, which I gave Black Hawk's son, by way of -keepsake: it will make a charming present for his squaw. - - -_Sunday, June 30th._ - -Rose at four, but, after looking at my watch, resumed my slumbers until -six, when I started up, much dismayed to find it so late, and presently, -having dressed as fast as ever I could, we set off for the steam-boat. -The morning was the brightest possible, the glorious waters that meet -before New York were all like rivers of light blazing with the reflected -radiance of the morning sky. We had no sooner set foot on board the -steam-boat, than a crowd of well-known faces surrounded us: I was -introduced to Mr. ----, and Mr. ---- the brother of our host at Cold -Spring. Mr. ---- came and stood by me for a considerable time after we -started. It is agreeable to talk to him, because he has known and seen -so much; traversed the world in every direction, and been the friend of -Byron and Shelley; a common mind, that had enjoyed the same -opportunities (that's impossible, by the by, no common mind would have -sought or found them), must have acquired something from intercourse -with such men, and such wide knowledge of things; but he is an uncommon -man, and it is very interesting to hear him talk of what he has seen, -and those he has known. - - * * * * * - -When we reached West Point, Mr. ---- was waiting with his boat to convey -us over to Cold Spring; and accordingly, bidding our various -acquaintance and companions farewell, we rowed over out of the course of -the river, into a sunny bay it forms among the hills, to our kinsman's -abode. - -Mr. ----'s place is a lovely little nook, situated on the summit of a -rise on the brink of the placid curve of water formed here by the river, -and which extends itself from the main current about a mile into the -mountains, ending in a wide marsh. The house, though upon a hill, is so -looked down upon, and locked in by the highlands around it, that it -seems to be at the bottom of a valley. From the verandah of his house, -through various frames which he has had cut, with exceeding good -judgment, among the plantations around the lawn, exquisite glimpses -appeared of the mountains, the little bay, the glorious Hudson itself, -with the graceful boats for ever walking its broad waters, their white -sails coming through the rocky passes where the river could not be -detected, as though they were sailing through the valleys of the earth. -The day was warm, but a fresh breeze stirred the boughs, and cooled the -air. My father and D---- seemed overcome with drowsiness, and lay in the -verandah with half-closed eyes, peeping at the dream-like scene around -them. I was not inclined to rest; and Mr. ---- having promised to show -me some falls at a short distance from the house, he, his brother, and I -set forth thither. We passed through the iron-works: 'twas Sunday, and -every thing, except a bright water-course, laughing and singing as it -ran, was still. They took me over the works; showed me the iron frames -of large mill-wheels, the machinery and process of boring the cannon, -the model of an iron forcing-pump, the casting-houses, and all the -wonders of their manufactory. All mechanical science is very interesting -to me, when I have an opportunity of seeing the detail of it, and -comprehending, by illustrations presented to my eyes, the technical -terms used by those conversing with me. We left these dark abodes, and -their smouldering fires, and strange powerful-looking instruments, and, -taking a path at the foot of the mountains, skirted the marsh for some -time, and then struck into the woods, ascending a tremendous stony path, -at the top of which we threw ourselves down to pant, and looked below, -through a narrow rent in the curtain of leaves around us, on the river, -and rocks, and mountains, bright with the noonday splendour of the -unclouded sky. After resting here a few moments, we arose, and climbed -again, through the woods, across a sweet clover-field, to the brow of -the hill where stands the highland school, a cheerful-looking cottage, -with the mountain tops all round, the blessed sky above, and the -downward sloping woods, and lake-like river below. Passing through the -ground surrounding it, we joined a road skirting a deep ravine, from -the bottom of which the waters called to me. I was wild to go down, but -my companions would not let me: it was in vain that I strained over the -brink, the trees were so thickly woven together, and the hollow so deep, -that I could see nothing but dark boughs, except every now and then, as -the wind stirred them, the white glimmer of the leaping foam, as it -sprang away with a shout that made my heart dance. We followed the path, -which began to decline; and presently a silver thread of gushing water -ran like a frightened child across our way, and flung itself down into -the glen. At length we reached the brown golden-looking stream. Mr. ---- -was exhorting us to take an upper path, which, he said, would bring us -to the foot of the fall; but I was not to be seduced away from the side -of the rivulet, and insisted upon crossing it then and there, through -the water, over moss-capped stones, across fallen trees, which, struck -by the lightning, or undermined by the cold-kissing waters, had choked -up the brook with their leafy bridges. So striving on, as best we might, -after wading through the stream two or three times, we reached the end -and aim of our journey, the waterfall. We stood on the brink of a pool, -about forty feet across, and varying in depth from three to seven or -eight feet: it was perfectly circular, and except on the south, where -the waters take their path down the glen, closed round with a wall of -rock about thirty feet high, in whose crevices trees with their rifted -roots hung fearlessly, clothing the grey stone with a soft curtain of -vivid green. Immediately opposite the brook, and at the north of the -pool, the water came tumbling over this rocky wall in three distinct -streams, which, striking the projecting ledges of iron-looking stone, at -different angles, met within eight or ten feet of the pool, and fell in -a mingled sheet of foam. The water broke over the rocks like a shower of -splintered light; the spray sprang up in the sunlight, and fell again -all glittering into the dark basin below, that gleamed like a magic -jewel set in the mossy earth. On the edge of the rocks, beside the -waterfall, a tree stood out among its greenly-mantled fellows, bare, -broken, and scathed to the very roots with lightning. Its upper half had -fallen aslant one branch of the waterfall, and lay black and dripping -over the pure white torrent; half falling down its course, half stayed -by some rocky ledges on which it rested. As I gazed up in perfect -ecstasy, an uncontrollable desire seized me to clamber up the rocks by -the side of the fall, and so reach the top of it. My companions laughed -incredulously as I expressed my determination to do so; but followed -where I led, until they became well assured that I was in earnest. -Remonstrance, and representation of impossibility, having been tried in -vain, Mr. ---- prepared to guide me, and Mr. ---- with my bag, parasol, -and bonnet in charge, returned to the edge of the pool to watch our -progress. Away we went over the ledges of the rocks, with nothing but -damp leaves, and slippery roots of trees, for footing. At one moment, -the slight covering of mould on which I had placed my foot crumbled from -beneath it, and I swung over the water by a young sapling which upheld -me well, and by which I recovered footing and balance. We had now -reached the immediate side of the waterfall, and my guide began -ascending the slippery slanting rocks down which it fell. I followed: in -an instant I was soaked through with the spray, my feet slipped, I had -no hold, he was up above me, the pool far below. With my head bowed -against the foam and water, I was feeling where next to tread, when a -bit of rock, that my companion had thought firm, broke beneath his foot, -and came falling down beside me into the stream. I paused, for I was -frightened: I looked up for a moment, but was blinded by the water, and -could not see where my guide was; I looked down the slanting ledge we -had climbed, over which the white water was churning angrily: "Shall I -come down again?" I cried to Mr. ----, who was anxiously looking up at -our perilous path. "Give me your hand," shouted his brother, above me. I -lifted my head, and turned towards him, and a dazzling curtain of spray -and foam fell over my face. "I cannot see you," I replied; "I cannot go -on; I do not know what to do." "Give me your hand!" he exclaimed again; -and I, planting one foot upon a ledge of rock so high as to lift me off -the other, held up my arm to him: but my limbs were so strained from his -height above me, that I had no power to spring or move, either up or -down. However, I felt my presence of mind going: I knew that to go down -was impossible, except headlong; the ascent must therefore be persevered -in. "Are you steady, quite, quite steady?" I enquired; he replied, -"Yes;" and holding out his hand, I locked mine in it, and bade him draw -me up. But he had not calculated upon my weight; my slight appearance -had deceived him; and as I bore upon his arm, we both of us slipped. I -turned as sick as death; but only cried out, "Recover yourself, recover -yourself, I am safe;" which I was, upon a rocky rim about three inches -wide, with my arm resting on the falling stump of the blasted tree. He -did recover his balance; and, again holding out his hand, drew me up -beside where he was sitting, on the edge of the rocks, in the water. We -pledged each other in the clear stream; and, standing on the top of our -hardly-gained eminence, in the midst of the rushing brook I wrang my -handkerchief triumphantly at Mr. ----; which was rather a comical -consideration, as I was literally dripping from head to foot. No Naïad -ever looked so thoroughly watery, or could have taken more delight in a -ducking. As soon as he saw us safe, he scrambled up through the woods to -the road; and we doing the same, we presently all met on the dusty -highway, where we congratulated each other on our perseverance and -success, and laughed very exceedingly at my soaked situation. We -determined not to pass through the highland school-ground, but kept the -main road for the advantage of sun and wind, the combined influences of -which presently dried my frock and handkerchief. When I reached home, -ran up stairs, and dressed myself for dinner, which we sat down to at -about four. After dinner, came up to my room and slept very profoundly, -until summoned to coffee, which we drank in the verandah. At about eight -o'clock, the sun had left the sky; but his warm mantle lay over the -western clouds, and hung upon the rocks and woody mountain sides. A -gentle breeze was stirring the trees round where we sat; and through the -thick branches of a chestnut tree, as they waved to and fro, the silver -disk of the full moon looked placidly down upon us. We set out strolling -through the woods: leisurely as foot could fall, we took our way through -the twilight paths; and when we reached the Roman Catholic chapel our -host is building by the river side, the silent thoughtful mountains were -wrapped in deep shadows, and the broad waters shone like a sheet of -silver in the moonlight. We sat down on the cannon lying on the pebbly -shore, and Mr. ---- ran off to order the boat, which presently came -stealing round over the shining waters. We got in, ---- rowing, and they -put me at the helm: but, owing to Mr. ----'s misdirections, who seemed -extremely amused at my awkwardness, and took delight in bothering poor -----, by making me steer all awry, we made but little progress, and that -rather crab-wise; backing, and sideling, and turning, as though the poor -boat had been a politician. - - * * * * * - -Full of my own contemplations, I kept steering round and round, and so -we wandered, as purposeless as the night air over the smooth waters, and -beneath the shadows of the solemn hills, till near eleven o'clock, when -we made for shore, and slowly turned home. We sat for a length of time -under the verandah: the gentlemen were discussing the planetary system, -as accepted in the civilised world; and Mr. ---- maintained, with -sufficient plausibility, that we knew nothing at all about it, in spite -of Newton: for that, though his theories were borne out by all -observation, it did not follow, therefore, that another theory equally -probable might not exist; that because he had found out one way of -accounting for the construction and motion of the heavenly bodies, there -was no other possible way in which they were constructed and impelled; -because one means is sufficient, he argued, it does not thence follow, -that 'tis the only sufficient means. Mr. ---- maintained that there was, -at least, strong presumption in favour of Newton's systems; because they -are borne out by our observation of results, and also because hitherto -no other better method of accounting for what we perceive has been -discovered. And so they went on, the end of all being, to my mind, as -usual, utter unsatisfactoriness; and, as the mosquitoes were stinging -me, I left them to their discussions, and came to bed. - - -_Monday, July 1st._ - -Major ---- and Mr. ---- came over from West Point: they were going to -prove some cannon that had not yet been fired; and some time passed in -the various preparations for so doing. At length, we were summoned down -to the water-side, to see the success of the experiment. The cannon lay -obliquely one behind the other, at intervals of about six yards, along -the curve line of the little bay; their muzzles pointed to the high -gravelly bank into which they fired. The guns were double-loaded, with -very heavy charges; and as soon as we were safely placed, so as to see -and hear, they were fired. The sound was glorious: the first heavy peal, -and then echo after echo, as they _rimbombavano_ among the answering -hills, who growled aloud at the stern voice waking their still and -noonday's deep repose. I pushed out in the boat, from shore, to see the -thick curtain of smoke as it rolled its silver, and brassy, and black -volumes over the woody mountain-sides; parting in jagged rents as it -rose; through which the vivid green, and blessed sky, smiled in their -peaceful loneliness. They ended in discharging all the cannon at once; -which made a most glorious row, and kept the mountains grumbling with -its echoes for some minutes after the discharge. All the pieces were -sound; which was highly satisfactory, as upon each one that flaws in the -firing Mr. ---- loses the cost of the piece. Just as the smoke cleared -off from the river, we saw the boat making to shore; and, presently, Mr. -----, his wife and children, and a young Mr. ----, landed. After -introductions, and one or two questions, Mrs. ---- went up to her -cottage to put things in order there; Mr. ---- betook himself to -Froissart and the shade; Mr. ---- to his business; and D----, my father, -Mr. ---- and myself, set forth to the fountain in the glen. The weather -was intensely hot; the thermometer above ninety in the shade; it was -about half-past twelve; and we toiled and gasped on like so many Indians -up the steep path. The walk had been so laborious, that neither D---- -nor my father were willing, at first, to admit that the object was a -sufficient one. We sat for some time by the dark shady pool; and they, -by degrees, recovered their breath and complacency, and began to -perceive how beautiful the place really was. My father said the -waterfall looked like a fine lace veil torn by the rocks; which pleased -me, because it did look like that. Mr. ---- proposed an admirable plan, -that of walking down the water's side, and taking a boat upon the -Hudson; and so avoiding the long hot walk home. We called at the -highland school; where the worthy man who keeps it received us with -infinite civility, put us into a delicious cool room, and gave us some -white hermitage and water to drink, which did us all manner of -good.[101] We then descended to the river: after some delay and -difficulty, got a boat and rowed home. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -LINES. - - Here be the free gifts of the morning for thee; - Dog-roses, with their thorns all strung with pearls, - And a large round diamond in each rosy cup: - Their leaves are the colour of Aurora's cheeks. - Here is a pale white flower, without a name, - At least to me, who am a stranger here: - It has a delicate almond smell, and grew - Among thick boughs, and leaves that guarded it. - Poor thing! I took it from its shelter for thee. - Here be some lilac heads of clover, sweet - As the breath of love: they lay amongst the hay - In a new-mown meadow, glittering in the sun. - Here are the leaves of the wild vine, that shine - Like glass without, and underneath are white - And soft as a swan's breast. There is an oak branch; - I gather'd it, because it grows at home, - And in this strange land look'd as sad and loving - As a friend's face: when it is wither'd, keep it. - They are all heavy with the tears of the night, - Who weeps, because she may not meet the sun; - And when he comes down from the mountain tops, - Parting the forests with his hands of fire, - He drinks her weeping, kissing all the flowers - With passionate love, which makes them look so blushing. - - -_Tuesday, 2d._ - -Packed up my bag, took a cup of tea, went and gathered some flowers, and -gave the poor lamb some heads of clover; bade a very unwilling farewell -to the pretty place, and rowed over to West Point, where Mr. ---- was -waiting for us. We breakfasted at ten, and went down to meet the boat. -Young Mr. ---- came over to see us off, and brought me some lovely fresh -flowers. Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- were both at the embarking-post. When the -boat came up, the rush to and from it was, without exception, the most -frightful thing I ever saw. The ----s were landing; and I just spoke to -her, as she was borne past by the throng. Safely on board, I again found -myself surrounded by familiar faces: I took out my work, and Mr. ---- -sat down by us. As a nuisance, which all unsought-for companionship is, -he is quite the most endurable possible; for he has seen such things, -and known such people, that it is greatly worth while to listen to him. -Every thing he says of Byron and Shelley confirms my own impression of -them. The scenery of the Hudson, immediately beyond West Point, loses -much of its sublimity, though no beauty. The river widens, and the -rugged summits of the highlands melt gradually into a softer and more -undulating outline. The richness, and swelling, and falling of the land -reminded me occasionally of England. The yellow grain was giving -diversity and warmth to the green landscape; and the shadowy woods -fencing the corn-fields threw over the whole picture a sheltering -peaceful charm. On the left, we presently began to see the blue outline -of the Catskill mountains, towering into the hot sky, and looking most -blessedly cool and dark amid the fervid glowing of the noonday world. -Mrs. ---- came on board at one of the stopping places. I was quite glad -to see her sweet face, and hear her gentle voice again. Mr. ---- was -greatly smitten with her calm look of repose, and lulling speech, and -took to her vehemently. She told me long stories, like fairy tales, of -caverns lately discovered in the bosom of these mountains; of pits black -and fathomless; of subterranean lakes in gloomy chambers of the earth; -and tumbling waters, which fall down in the dark, where men heard, but -none had dared to go. How I should like to go there! Oh, who will lead -me into the secret parts of the earth; who will guide me to the deep -hiding-places where spirits are--where the air of this upper world is -not breathed, and its sounds are unknown--where the light of the sun is -unseen, and the voice of human creatures unheard? how I should like to -go there! At about half-past three in the afternoon, the sky became -suddenly and thickly overcast: the awning which sheltered the upper deck -was withdrawn, and every preparation made for a storm. The pale -angry-looking clouds lay heaped like chalk upon a leaden sky; and -presently one red lightning dipped down into the woods like a fiery -snake falling from the heavens. At the same time, a furious gust of wind -and torrent of rain rushed down the mountain side. We scuttled down to -the lower deck as fast as ever we could; but the storm met us at the -bottom of the stairs, and in an instant I was drenched. Chairs, tables, -every thing was overturned by the gust; and the boat was running with -water in every direction. It thundered and lightened a little; but the -noise of the engine was such, that we scarce heard the storm. I stood by -the door of the furnace, and dried leisurely, talking the while to Mr. -----, who is sun-burnt enough to warm one through with a look. During -our progress, one of the wheels (or paddles, as they are properly -called) took it into its head to knock its case to pieces, and banged -the boards about in a strange way. Accident the second:--one of the men, -a black, who was employed in tending the fire, got so dreadfully heated -with the intense furnace, that he rushed out of the engine-room, and -swallowed two or three draughts of cold water. The effect was -instantaneous: he fell down in violent internal spasms, and died, poor -wretch! before we arrived at Albany. We reached that town at about -half-past five in the afternoon, and went to a house the ----s -recommended to us. At about seven, they gave us dinner; and immediately -after I came up to my own room. I was so exhausted with fatigue, and a -violent cold and cough, that I literally fell down on the floor, and -slept till dark. As we came up the river, we passed Dr. ----'s place, -Hyde Park, which has the reputation of being the best-kept private -estate in America: the situation of the house, on the edge of a ridge, -appeared to me, from the river, rather too much exposed. - - -_Saturday, 6th._ - -My father had settled to go to the Cohoes Falls. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -When we were in the steam-boat, going up to Troy,[102] ---- put a -letter into my hands, which he told me was written by the mother of -Allegra, Byron's child. The letter was remarkable only for more -straightforwardness and conciseness than is usual in women's letters. I -do not know whether ---- gave it me to read on that account alone, or -because it contained allusions to wild and interesting adventures of his -own: perhaps there was a mingling of motives. There never was, by the -by, a _homogeneous_ motive, as Brewster would say, in the human breast. -We reached Troy in about twenty minutes, and walked up into the town to -procure some species of vehicle for our progress to the falls. There was -none ready; and while one was being procured, a man, who was standing -near us, very civilly invited us to come into his shop and sit down, -which we did very readily. The situation of the warehouses, on the side -near the river, of the main street of Troy, is exceedingly pretty. They -are, for the most part, large long rooms, opening to the street at the -one end, and on the other looking down, from a considerable height, upon -the Hudson. The shop we were in was a china-store; and the nice cold -crockery-ware made one cool to look at it: the weather was roasting. Mr. ----- left us to gather information, and kindly brought me back word that -the population of Troy was five hundred, _or_ five thousand, I really -forget which; and, for my journal, it don't much matter; and that the -storekeeper assured him the Trojans were an exceedingly refined and -literary set of folks; and that the society, in point of these two -advantages, was no whit behind Boston: there's for Boston!--We obtained -a coach, and crossed a ferry, such as I had never seen before, worked by -horses. Poor wretches! they reminded me of ----'s steeds, Martyre et -Souffrance. Mr. ---- observed that they led the life of the majority; -and so they do,--labour and suffering that custom renders endurable, and -that ends by grinding down every faculty of mind or soul: we're a -blessed pack of drudges, and deserve to be just what we are. After -crossing the ferry, we drove about five miles through some gentle -smiling lands, that made one feel very charitable. The Cohoes is, I -believe, a Dutch name for a hill just above a turn in the Mohawk, where, -after some shallow, rapid, hasty running over a rocky bed, the river -flings itself down over a broad barrier, between thirty and forty feet -high, with the most delightful gushing sound in the world. The foam -looked very nice, and soft, and thick, and cold: I longed to be in the -middle of it. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After wandering about for some time, we sat ourselves down on a high -grassy knoll just above the falls. - - * * * * * - -We returned in time, as we flattered ourselves, to meet the steam-boat -which leaves Troy for Albany at four; but, just as we were crossing the -ferry, the steamer ran past us, leaving us, with eyes and mouths wide -open, very much bothered as to how we were to get down to Albany. D---- -proposed a row-boat, and the sense of the company seemed to agree -thereto; but, upon driving to the inn where we hired our carriage, and -enquiring for such a conveyance, we were assured that there was no such -thing to be had: whereupon my father, good easy man! believed there was -not, and got into the coach again. Mr. ----, however, had absconded, and -remained gone so long, that I began to think he had, perhaps, started to -swim down the river; when he presently appeared, informing us that he -had gotten a boat for us. We jumped readily out of the coach; and, -though my father had actually made a bargain for the hire of it, to -convey us to Albany, with the innkeeper, and, moreover, given him the -money, the righteous man refunded the dollars; which, Falstaff knows, is -a displeasing thing to do: "I hate that paying back!" Our row back was -delightful: the evening was calm and lovely beyond description; the sun -had lost his fierceness, and the warm air clasped the fresh woods -tenderly; the waters were unbroken as a mirror; the very spirit of love -and peace possessed the world: the effect of all which was to send me -into a very sound sleep. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -We reached Albany in very good time for dinner. Mr. ---- dined with us: -what a savage he is, in some respects! He's a curious being: a -description of him would puzzle any one who had never seen him. A man -with the proportions of a giant for strength and agility; taller, -straighter, and broader than most men; yet with the most listless -indolent carelessness of gait, and an uncertain wandering way of -dropping his feet to the ground, as if he didn't know where he was -going, and didn't much wish to go any where. His face is as dark as a -Moor's; with a wild strange look about the eyes and forehead, and a -mark like a scar upon his cheek: his whole appearance giving one an idea -of toil, hardship, peril, and wild adventure. The expression of his -mouth is remarkably mild and sweet, and his voice is extremely low and -gentle. His hands are as brown as a labourer's: he never profanes them -with gloves, but wears two strange magical-looking rings: one of them, -which he showed me, is made of elephant's hair. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Occasionally, in his horror of one class of prejudices, he embraces the -opposite ones: perhaps the extreme of any evil, in this world of -imperfect means, can only be effectually resisted by its reverse -extreme. - - -_Monday, 8th._ - -After breakfast, went to rehearsal: Mr. ---- came with us. The actors -were one and all reading their parts: the lady who played Charlotte was -the only exception--she was perfect. As I sat on the stage, between my -scenes, a fat, good-tempered, rosy, bead-eyed, wet-haired, shining-faced -looking man accosted me; and, having ascertained that I was myself, -proceeded to accuse me of having, in Mrs. Haller, pronounced the word -"industry" with the accent on the middle syllable, as "in_dus_try;" -adding, that he had already quoted my authority to several people for -the emphasis, and begging to know my "exquisite reason" therefor. It was -in vain that I urged that it must have been a mistake if I said so; that -I never meant to say so, if I did say so; that if I did say so, I was -very wrong to say so; that I was very sorry for having said so; that I -never would say so again. Between each of my humblest apologies my -accuser merely replied, "But you _did_ say in_dus_try," with an -inflexible pertinacity of condemnation, which was not a whit softened by -my sincere confessions. Presently the worthy creature, adverting to the -letter in the Mirror about General Jackson, begged that as I had passed -the fourth of July, that glorious anniversary, in Albany, I would -illustrate its celebration by some remarks in the style of that -admirable composition. Great was the fat man's surprise, and evident his -contempt for me, when I disclaimed the authorship of that document. -Greater still waxed both, when I assured him that on the fourth of July -I positively walked out of the town, to avoid the noise in it. After -this, he remained gazing at me in silent amazement; and, as soon as he -had sufficiently recovered from it to move, he took up his hat, and -briefly wished me "good morning." Mr. ---- told me the man was a -newspaper-editor; but I think he looked too fat, and fresh, and -good-tempered for that. When we returned home, sat down to write -journal. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The play was the Gamester: the house was very full. Mr. ---- did not -know one syllable of his part, and bothered me utterly. At the end of -the play, they called for my father, and civilly desired we would act -the Hunchback; as, however, we had not the dresses for it with us, he -declined, but promised we would return hereafter. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Tuesday, 9th._ - -After breakfast, the day being extremely fine, Mr. ---- urged us to go -out, and take a walk; so forth we set, my father and I leading the way, -and D---- and Mr. ---- following. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -We crossed the river, and, following the first road like a flock of -geese errant, arrived at the top of a delightful breezy knoll, opposite -a tiny waterfall, the rocks and basin of which were picturesque; but the -water had been turned off to turn a mill. The hill where we stood -commanded a beautiful view of the Hudson, Albany, and the shores -stretching away into sunny indistinctness. My father, and D----, and Mr. -----, sat down under some oak trees: I ran off to explore the stream. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After looking about in every direction, I returned to my friends: we -strolled away through the woods and along the high road, with the sweet -smell of mellow hay keeping us company the while. We halted at an -orchard corner, near a pleasant-looking farm, where we all agreed we -should like to live. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Mr. ---- killed us with laughing with an account he gave us of some of -Byron's sayings and doings, which were just as whimsical and eccentric -as unamiable, but very funny. To-morrow we start for Utica: Mr. ----- comes with us: I am glad of it--I like him. - - -_Wednesday, 10th._ - -Just as we were getting into the railroad coach for Schenectady, a -parcel was put into my hand: it was a letter from ----, and Pellico's -"Mie Prigioni:" I was glad of it. At Schenectady we dined. By the by, I -must not forget to mention the civility we met with from the people who -kept the house. There have been so many instances given of the -discomfort and discourteousness which travellers encounter in America, -that it is but justice to record the reverse when one meets with it. For -my own part, with very few exceptions, I have hitherto met with nothing -but civility and attention of every description. We have almost always -commanded private sitting, and single sleeping, rooms; have had our -meals served in tolerable comfort and decency; and even on board the -steam-boats, where every thing is done by shoal, I have found that, in -spite of being an inveterate dawdle, and never ready at any of the -bell-ringings, I have always had a place reserved for me, and enough to -eat without fighting for it. But to return to our Schenectady hosts. The -house was very full; and, while waiting for the canal boat, to avoid the -gaping crowds with which all the rooms were filled, D---- and I walked -out into the verandah, when a pretty lassie, the daughter, I conclude, -of the house, invited us into a very nice private parlour, belonging to -the family, where I found a fine piano, books, music, and all -civilisation as well as civility. We proceeded by canal to Utica, which -distance we performed in a day and a night, starting at two from -Schenectady, and reaching Utica the next day at about noon. I like -travelling by the canal boats very much. Ours was not crowded; and the -country through which we passed being delightful, the placid moderate -gliding through it, at about four miles and a half an hour, seemed to me -infinitely preferable to the noise of wheels, the rumble of a coach, and -the jerking of bad roads, for the gain of a mile an hour. The only -nuisances are the bridges over the canal, which are so very low, that -one is obliged to prostrate one's self on the deck of the boat, to -avoid being scraped off it; and this humiliation occurs, upon an -average, once every quarter of an hour. Mr. ---- read Don Quixote to us: -he reads very peculiarly; slowly, and with very marked emphasis. He has -a strong feeling of humour, as well as of poetry: in fact, they belong -to each other; for humour is but fancy laughing, and poetry but fancy -sad. The valley of the Mohawk, through which we crept the whole -sunshining day, is beautiful from beginning to end; fertile, soft, rich, -and occasionally approaching sublimity and grandeur in its rocks and -hanging woods. We had a lovely day, and a soft blessed sunset, which, -just as we came to a point where the canal crosses the river, and where -the curved and wooded shores on either side recede, leaving a broad -smooth basin, threw one of the most exquisite effects of light and -colour I ever remember to have seen over the water and through the sky. -The sun had scarce been down ten minutes from the horizon, when the deck -was perfectly wet with the heaviest dew possible, which drove us down to -the cabin. Here I fell fast asleep, till awakened by the cabin girl's -putting her arms affectionately round me, and telling me that I might -come and have the first choice of a berth for the night, in the horrible -hen-coop allotted to the female passengers. I was too sleepy to -acknowledge or avail myself of the courtesy; but the girl's manner was -singularly gentle and kind. We sat in the men's cabin until they began -making preparations for bed, and then withdrew into a room about twelve -feet square, where a whole tribe of women were getting to their beds. -Some half undressed, some brushing, some curling, some washing, some -already asleep in their narrow cribs, but all within a quarter of an -inch of each other: it made one shudder. As I stood cowering in a -corner, half asleep, half crying, the cabin girl came to me again, and -entreated me to let her make a bed for me. However, upon my refusing to -undress before so much good company, or lie down in such narrow -neighbourhood, she put D---- and myself in a small closet, where were -four empty berths, where I presently fell fast asleep, where she -established herself for the night, and where D----, wrapped up in a -shawl, sat till morning under the half-open hatchway, breathing damp -starlight. - - -_Thursday, 11th._ - -D----'s exclamations woke me in the morning: the day was breaking -brightly, and the dewy earth was beginning to smile in the red dawn, -when we approached Little Falls, a place where the placid gentle -character of the Mohawk becomes wild and romantic, and beautifully -picturesque. The canal is for some space cut through the solid rock, and -the banks, high and bold, were crowned with tangled woods, and gemmed -with wild flowers, and the delicate vivid tufts of fern. It was -exceedingly beautiful; and though I believe I missed some part of the -scenery immediately surrounding Little Falls, the approach to it, which -is of the same nature, enchanted me extremely. When we arrived at Utica, -I gave the nice cabin-girl my silver needle-case: her tenderness and -care of me the night before made it impossible for me to offer her -money. She took my gift, and, throwing her arms round my neck, kissed me -very fervently for it. I was struck with her manner, which had appeared -to me, in discharge of her common duties, reserved, and rather -dignified. This exhibition of feeling surprised me therefore; and -together with her dark eyes, hair, and complexion, made me think she -must have foreign blood in her veins. I asked her, but she said no: -American by birth, English by descent: certainly she had neither the -face nor bearing of the one or the other. She was a very singular and -striking looking person. As for Mr. ----, he fell in love with her -forthwith, and, I think, had half a mind to settle on the Mohawk, and -make her his fellow farmer. At Utica we dined; and after dinner I slept -profoundly. The gentlemen, I believe, went out to view the town, which -twenty years ago _was not_, and now is a flourishing place, with -fine-looking shops, two or three hotels, good broad streets, and a body -of lawyers, who had a supper at the house where we were staying, and -kept the night awake with champagne, shouting, toasts, and clapping of -hands: so much for the strides of civilisation through the savage lands -of this new world. The house was full, and we could not get a room to -ourselves; so we sat in a corner of the large dining-room. Passed the -evening in writing journal. Mr. ---- showed me his of Sunday last. - - -_Friday, 12th._ - -We all breakfasted early together, and immediately after breakfast got -into an open carriage and set off for Trenton. D---- and my father sat -beside each other, and I opposite them; Mr. ---- on the box; and so we -progressed. The day was bright and breezy: the country was all smiling -round us in rich beauty; the ripening sheets of waving grain; the -sloping fields, with here and there the grey tomb-stone of a forest -tree; the vivid thickets bounding the pale harvest plots; the -silvery-looking fences, with their irregular lines relieved against the -dark woods; the clear sky above; all was lovely. About seven miles from -Utica, we stopped to water the horses at a lonely road-side house: we -alighted, and without ceremony strolled into the garden,--a mere -wilderness of overgrown sweet briar, faint breathing dog-roses, and -flaunting red poppies, overshadowed by some orchard trees, from which we -stole sundry half-ripe cherries. The place was desolate, I believe; yet -we lingered in it, and did not think it so. We got into the carriage -again: the remaining eight miles of our journey were as beautiful and as -bad as the preceding ones had been. I thought of our dark drive back -through these miry and uneven ways. At last we reached the house at -which visiters to the Falls put up; a large comfortable dwelling enough, -kept by a couple of nice young people, who live in this solitude all the -year round, and maintain themselves and a beautiful big baby by the -profits they derive from the pilgrims to Trenton. We ordered dinner, and -set forth to the Falls, with our host for guide. We crossed a small wood -immediately adjoining the house, and, descending several flights of -steps connected by paths in the rocky bank, we presently stood on the -brink of the channel, where the water was boiling along, deep, and -black, and passing away like time. We followed along the rocky edge: the -path is not more than a foot wide, and is worn into all manner of -unevenness and cavities, and slippery with the eternal falling of the -spray. ---- walked before me: we dared not turn our heads, for fear of -tumbling into the black whirlpool below. We walked on steadily, warning -each other at every step, and presently we arrived at the first fall, -where the rest of our party were halting. I can't describe it: I don't -know either its height or width; I only know it was extremely beautiful, -and came pouring down like a great rolling heap of amber. The rocks -around are high to the heavens, scooped, and singularly regular; and the -sides of the torrent are every now and then paved with large smooth -layers of rock, as even and regular in their proportions as if the -fairies had done the work. After standing before the tumbling mass of -water for a length of time, we climbed to the brink above, and went on. -Mr. ---- flung himself down under a roof of rock by the waterfall. My -father, D----, and the guide, went on out of sight, and ---- and I -loitered by the rapid waters, flinging light branches and flowers upon -the blood-coloured torrent, that whirled, and dragged, and tossed them -down to the plunge beneath. When we came to the beautiful circular fall, -we crept down to a narrow ridge, and sat with our feet hanging over the -black caldron, just opposite a vivid rainbow that was clasping the -waterfall. We sat here till I began to grow dizzy with the sound and -motion of the churning darkness beneath us, and begged to move, which we -did very cautiously. I was in an agony lest we should slip from the -narrow dripping ledges along which we crawled. We wandered on, and -stopped again at another fall, upon a rocky shelf overhanging the -torrent, beside the blasted and prostrate trunk of a large tree. I was -tired with walking, and ---- was lifting me up to seat me on the fallen -tree, when we saw Mr. ---- coming slowly towards us. He stopped and -spoke to us, and presently passed on; we remained behind, talking, and -dipping our hands into the fresh water. At length we rejoined the whole -party, sitting by a narrow channel, where the water looked like ink. -Beyond this our guide said it was impossible to go: I was for -ascertaining this by myself, but my father forbade me to attempt the -passage further. I was thirsty; and the guide having given me a -beautiful strawberry and a pale blue-bell, that he had found, like a -couple of jewels in some dark crevice of the rocks, I devoured the one, -and then going down to the black water's edge, we dipped the fairy cup -in, and drank the cold clear water, with which abundant draught I -relieved my father's thirst also.[103] Around the place where we were -resting, the rocks rose like circular walls up to the very sky. From -their overhanging edges, tiny threads of water fell upon the rocky -pavement beneath, with a silver glancing, and a clear plashing tone, -that sounded even amid the hoarse talking of the dark waters below. In -some mould among these cliffs, at their very highest edge, a tree had -struck its roots, and, growing upside down, stretched its drooping green -arms to the hurrying stream below, that would not tarry. We had walked, -I suppose, a mile and a half along the water's side, and in this -distance its course is broken by six beautiful cataracts. The variety of -the colour of the water, occasioned by the various depths of its -channel, and the different tints of the rocks over which it flows, is -singular. Where the river expands, its rapid broken waves were of the -darkest red-brown, like coffee; or rather, indeed, redder than that, -like a deep blood colour: reaching the walls of rock, over which they -fall into a lower bed, they became pouring masses of amber and diamonds, -or soft thick heaps of whitest foam; and then again, in the deep narrow -channels which received their headlong leaping, all was black as -blackest night, and the waters were sucked away under the hollow rocks -in inky eddies, that made me think of drowning with double horror. The -several falls are very various in their height and forms, but they are -all beautiful, most beautiful; not a place to visit for a day, but to -live the summer away in. - - * * * * * - -When we were all rested, we rose to retrace our steps: our guide was a -man of some cultivation, and of much natural refinement, with a strong -feeling of the exquisite beauty of the scenes in which he was living. -These falls are upon his own land, belong to him, and he pointed out to -us a spot beside the torrent where, he said, he had read all Byron's -works: this pleased me. Returning, I thought the path even more -difficult than it was before: there is a chain fastened along the rock -where it narrows, for the security of persons walking: this has been put -up since the lamentable loss of a young girl, who, following her party -along this slippery path, missed her footing, and was swept into a -foaming whirlpool, whence nothing could ever emerge. Our guide told us -of another terrible accident, which happened not long before we were -there. A young lady and her lover were going along the water side, and, -in order to retain hold of her hand, he walked upon a narrow ridge, -where he could hardly balance himself: the girl said, "Oh, if you walk -there, I shall let you go:" she did so, and in the same instant he -slipped from the rock and was dragged away to that dark death.[104] - -The chain upon the rock was about as high as my shoulder; but when the -river is swollen, it constantly rises above the chain: at which time, it -is scarce possible to go any distance along its banks. This had been the -case a short time before we were there. We returned to the house, and -dined. After dinner, had a gossip with Mrs. ----, and a romp with her -beautiful baby. I strolled into the garden: it was in disorder, and -looked like a wilderness; but I saw some roses drooping their full -bosoms to the earth, and I went to fetch them. Our host came with me: he -said he had but little leisure to cultivate his garden, and could not -well afford to have it kept in better order; that it supplied them with -nearly all they required; and that, with his other occupations, he had -hardly time to make it more than useful. I questioned him about the -number of visiters who came to the falls. He said in summer there was a -constant succession of them; but that in winter no one came there. Upon -my expressing some surprise that people did not come, and remain for -some weeks at least, in so beautiful a place, he told me that the -generality of visiters were quite satisfied with an hour's stroll by the -water; and that some had arrived at his door, alighted from their -carriage, dined, sauntered round the house, and, _without even going -down to the river_, returned to Utica quite satisfied with having been -at Trenton. I was amazed. But the utter insensibility of the generality -of Americans to the beauty and sublimity of nature is nothing short of -amazing; and in this respect they literally appear to me to want a -sense. I have been filled with astonishment and perplexity at the total -indifference with which they behold scenes of grandeur and loveliness, -that any creature, with half a soul, would gaze at with feelings almost -of adoration. But in these glorious tabernacles of nature, where God's -majesty seems, as it were, visibly resting on his works, I have seen -Americans come and stare, and stand for a moment, and depart again, -apparently impressed with nothing but the singularity of the man or -woman who could remain there longer than they did. What can be the cause -of this?--Is it possible that a perception of the beautiful in nature is -a result of artificial cultivation?--is it that the grovelling -narrowness of the usual occupations to which the majority addict -themselves has driven out of them the fine spirit, which is God's altar -in men's souls?--is it that they become incapable of beauty? Wretched -people! They remind me, by contrast, as I see them toiling along the -crowded streets of their cities, those dens of Mammon, of Wordsworth's -noble description of him - - - "Who walk'd in glory and in joy, - Behind his plough, upon the mountain side." - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At about sunset, I wandered into the wood, to the top of the steps -leading to the waterfall; where I could hear, far below, its sweet voice -singing as it passed away. I remained standing here till the carriage -was announced. Just before we went away, our host gave me a small piece -of crystal. It is found among the rocks here, which, I believe, present -many curious geological phenomena, which I leave to the learned to -describe. The strata are the most beautifully regular possible; and, -upon their broad smooth surfaces, a thousand theories sit; which I hope -I did not disturb, as I walked over them in the plenitude of my -ignorance, admiring God's masonry. Oh, fair world!--oh, strange, and -beautiful, and holy places--where one's soul meets one in silence--and -where one's thoughts arise, with the everlasting incense of the waters, -from the earth, which is _His_ footstool, to the heavens, which are -_His_ throne. It grew dark long before we reached Utica: half the way I -sang; the other half I slept, in spite of ruts five fathoms deep, and -all the joltings of these evil ways. To-morrow we start on our way to -Niagara; which, Mr. ---- says, is to sweep Trenton clean from our -memories. I do not think it. - - -_Saturday, 13th._ - -Left Utica at six o'clock, in our exclusive extra: we were to go on as -far as Auburn, a distance of seventy-six miles. The day was very -beautiful, but extremely hot. At Vernon, where we stopped to breakfast, -we overtook the ----s: we had a very good breakfast; and, I think, for -the first time since our land journey from Baltimore to Philadelphia, -last winter, we were waited on by women. Found a case of musical -glasses: sat on the floor, in great delight, amusing myself with them, -while the stage was getting ready, ---- and I began wandering about; but -the place did not look promising, and the heat was intense. We sat -ourselves down under the piazza of the tavern, and I gave him the words -of "To that lone Well." In about an hour we set off again. The country -was very rich and beautiful; and, at every knoll, backed by woodlands, -and skirted by golden grain fields, Mr. ---- exclaimed, "Come, we will -have a farm here." He and my father were to smoke, reflect, and enjoy -life; I was to sing, whenever I happened to please, and enjoy life too; -D---- was to brew, to bake, wash, iron, plough, manage the house, look -after the cattle, take care of the poultry, mind the dairy; in short, do -every thing on earth that was to be done, and enjoy life too: all which -arrangements afforded us matter of converse on the way, and much -amusement. Then my father and Mr. ---- had long argumentations about -acting: the latter is a vehement admirer of Kean; and of course, that -being the case, matter of debate was not wanting. It was all extremely -pleasant and profitable; and while the sun shone, and we all kept our -tempers, nothing could do better. ---- amused me by telling me portions -of ----'s book, the Adventures of a younger Son, with which he had been -extremely charmed; and which I remember beginning on board ship, as we -crossed from England. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At about half-past three, we arrived at a place called -_Syracuse_!!!--where, stopping to change horses, my father observed that -here there were two different routes to our point of destination; and -desired our driver to take that which passes through Skaneateles, a very -beautiful village, situated on a lake so called. However, to this the -master of the inn, who was also, I believe, proprietor of the coach, -seemed to have some private objection; and while my father was yet -speaking, very coolly shut the coach door in his face, and desired the -driver to go on in the contrary direction. The insolence of the fellow -enraged my father extremely; and it was rather astonishing, that's the -fact: but the deuce is in't if, in a free country, a man may not choose -which way his own coach shall go, in spite of the folk who pay him for -the use of it. We had to pocket the affront; and, what was much more -disagreeable, to travel an ugly uninteresting road, instead of a -picturesque and pretty one. We had not proceeded many miles after this -occurrence, and were just recovering our equanimities, when the said -vehicle broke down. We were not overturned or hurt, only tilted a little -on one side. The driver, however, did not seem to think it safe to -proceed in this condition: the gentlemen got out, and searched the -hedges and thickets for a piece of oak sufficiently strong and stout to -repair, at least for the moment, the damage: we were not at the time -within reach of any house. At last, they procured what they wanted; and, -having propped up the carriage after the best fashion they could, we -proceeded at a foot pace to the next village. Here, while they were -putting our conveyance into something like better order, ---- and I -wandered away to a pretty bright water-course, which, like all water in -this country, was made to turn a mill. The coach being made sound once -more, we packed ourselves into it, and progressed. The evening was -perfectly sultry. I never shall forget, at a place where we stopped to -water the horses, a cart-full of wretched sheep and calves, who were, I -suppose, on their way to the slaughterhouse, but who, in the mean time, -seemed enduring the most horrible torture that creatures can suffer. -They were jammed into the cart so as to be utterly incapable of moving a -single limb; the pitiless sun shone fiercely upon their wretched heads, -and their poor eyes were full of dust and flies. I never saw so -miserable a spectacle of suffering. I looked at the brutal-looking man -that was driving them, and wondered whether he would go to hell, for -tormenting these helpless beasts in this fashion. - -The sun set gloriously. Mr. ---- began talking about Greece, and, -getting a good deal excited, presently burst forth into "The isles of -Greece! the isles of Greece!" which he recited with amazing vehemence -and earnestness. He reminded me of Kean several times: while he was -declaiming, he looked like a tiger. 'Tis strange, or, rather, 'tis not -strange, 'tis but natural, how, in spite of the contempt and even hatred -which he often expresses for England, and every thing connected with it, -his thoughts and plans, and all the energies of his mind, seem for ever -bent upon changes to be wrought in England--freer government, purer -laws, more equal rights. He began to talk about Cromwell: he wanted, he -said, to have a play written out of Cromwell's life. We talked the -matter over with infinite zeal, and established most satisfactorily, -that to accomplish such a thing, as it ought to be done, would be quite -one of the most difficult tasks in the world. Nobody but a religious and -political enthusiast could do it: a poet, unless himself a republican -Englishman, and fanatical sectarian, hardly could: it must be unlike all -other works of art--not an imitation of truth, but truth itself. -Schiller is the only man I can imagine who could have attempted it with -any chance of success: and I even doubt whether he would have made of it -the firebrand our friend wants.[105] Towards evening the heat became -more and more oppressive. Our coach was but ill cobbled, and leaned -awfully to one side. I fell asleep lying in my father's lap; and when we -reached Auburn, which was not until nine o'clock, I was so tired, so -miserably sleepy, and so tortured with the side-ach, from the cramped -position in which I had been lying, that I just crawled into the first -room in the inn where we alighted, and dropped down on the floor fast -asleep. They roused me for supper; and very soon after I betook myself -to bed. The heat was intolerable; the pale feet of the summer lightning -ran along the black edges of the leaden clouds,--the world was alight -with it. I could not sleep: I never endured such suffocating heat. - - -_Sunday, 14th._ - -Rose at eight: the morning was already sultry as the hottest noon in -England. After breakfast, I wandered about the house in search of shade; -went into an empty room, opened the shutters, and got out upon a large -piazza, or rather colonnade, which surrounded it. The side I had chosen -was defended by the house from the fierce sunlight; and I walked up and -down in quiet and loneliness for some time. Not far from the house stood -the prison, one of the state prisons of the country; a large grey -building, which appeared like a huge block of granite, unsheltered by a -single tree or bush, and dim with the hazy heat of the atmosphere. Being -Sunday, we were not able to visit it; but the person who kept the house -where we were, a very intelligent and civil man, gave us some account of -it, and fully corroborated the fact which Stuart mentions,--that when -the prison took fire, and all the criminals confined in it were -liberated to assist in saving the building, in spite of the general -confusion and total absence of restraint or observation, which for some -time left them the most easy opportunity of escape, not one of them took -advantage of this accident to recover their liberty, but every prisoner -returned voluntarily, after the fire was got under, to his cell. This -seems miraculous, and speaks more for the excellence of the system -pursued in these establishments than all the disquisitions in the world. -At about ten, our exclusive extra having driven to the door, we packed -ourselves into it, and proceeded towards Geneva, where we were to dine. -The sky, however, presently became overcast; and, towards noon, the -world was absolutely shrouded in a lead-coloured pall. The air was -stifling: it was impossible to draw one's breath; and a quarter of a -degree more of heat would certainly have occasioned suffocation. We were -all gasping. Suddenly the red lightning tore open the heavy clouds, the -thunder rolled round the heavens, the rain came down in torrents: we -were away from all shelter, and obliged to proceed through the storm. -The leather curtains of our coach were speedily unrolled and buttoned -down; but this formed but a miserable shelter against the furious rain. -Our carpet bags, which were on the outside of the carriage, were soaked -through; and we ourselves were soon in nearly as bad a plight. The rain -came in rivulets through the crevices of our insufficient shelter, and -the seats and bottom of the coach were presently standing pools. We -arrived between twelve and one o'clock at Cayuga; and here we drew up -before the inn door, to await the end of the storm. The rain was still -so violent, that we preferred remaining in the coach to getting out and -being still more thoroughly drenched. The thunder growled sulkily at a -distance, and the lightning glared rapidly from side to side. By -degrees, the over-swollen clouds, having emptied themselves, rolled -away; the rain became less violent; the mist and heavy vapour parted -from off the face of the earth, and the lake appeared blending with the -sky amid the indistinct and hazy outlines of the half-shrouded country. -While we were sitting listening to the storm, silence had fallen upon us -all: a thunderstorm is apt to prove an interruption to conversation. -During this pause, Mr. ---- took out his pencil, and wrote upon a scrap -of paper a very eloquent Mahomedan description of the attributes of God. -I do not know whether it was his own, or an authentic Mahomedan -document: it was sublime. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The storm having abated, we proceeded on our way; crossed a bridge a -mile and some roods long, over the Cayuga lake; which, however, was -still so veiled with scowling mist and clouds, that we could discern -none of its features. At about three o'clock we reached Geneva, a small -town situated on a lake called Seneca Water. Here we dined. ---- had -most providentially brought silver forks with him: for the wretched -two-pronged iron implements furnished us by our host were any thing but -clean or convenient. After dinner, the weather having become mild and -bright, we went up to a piazza on the second floor, which overlooked the -lake and its banks: the latter are very picturesque; and the town -itself, climbing in terraces along the side of a steep acclivity, rising -from the water, has a very good effect. The lake at this point did not -appear very wide; for we could distinguish, from where we stood, minute -objects on the opposite shore. - -After resting ourselves for a short time, we again took to our coach, -and pursued our route towards Canandaigua, where we were to pass the -night. The afternoon was bright and beautiful, the road tolerable, and -the country through which we passed fertile and smiling. - -As the evening began to come on, we reached Canandaigua Lake, a very -beautiful sheet of water, of considerable extent; we coasted for some -time close along its very margin. The opposite shore was high, clothed -with wood, from amidst which here and there a white house looked -peacefully down on the clear mirror below: the dead themselves can -hardly inhabit regions more blessedly apart from the evil turmoil of the -world, than the inhabitants of these beautiful solitudes.[106] - -Leaving the water's edge, we proceeded about a quarter of a mile, and -found ourselves at the door of the inn at Canandaigua, the principal -among some houses surrounding an open turfed space, like an English -village green, across which ran the high road. My father, Mr. ----, and -I went up to a sort of observatory at the top of the house, from whence -the view was perfectly enchanting. The green below, screened on three -sides with remarkably fine poplar trees, and surrounded by neat white -houses, reminded me of some retired spot in my own dear country. -Opposite us, the land rose with a gentle wooded swell; and to the left, -the lake spread itself to meet the horizon. A fresh breeze blew over the -earth, most grateful after the intense heat of the morning, and the sky -was all strewed with faint rosy clouds, melting away one by one into -violet wreaths, among which the early evening star glittered cold and -clear. - -We came down to supper, which was served to us, as usual, in a large -desolate-looking public room. After this, we came to the sitting-room -they had provided for us, a small comfortable apartment, with a very -finely-toned piano in it. To this I forthwith sat down, and played and -sang for a length of time: late in the evening, I left the instrument, -and my father, Mr. ----, and I took a delightful stroll under the -colonnade, discussing Milton; many passages of which my father recited -most beautifully, to my infinite delight and ecstasy. By and by they -went in, and ---- came out to walk with me. - -Certainly this climate is the most treacherous imaginable: the heat this -morning had been intolerable, and to-night a piercing cold wind had -arisen, that would have rendered winter clothing by no means -superfluous. We walked rapidly up and down, till the bleak blast became -so keen, that we were glad to take refuge in the house. Our unfortunate -carpet bags and their contents are literally drenched: many of my goods -and chattels will never recover this ablution; among others, I am sorry -to say, ----'s beautiful satchel. - - -_Monday, 15th._ - -Our breakfast, which was extremely comfortable and clean, was served to -us in our private room; a singular favour: one, I hope, which will -become a custom as the country is travelled through by greater numbers. -Before breakfast, D---- had been taking a walk about the pretty village, -and trying to beg, borrow, or steal some flowers for me. The master of -the inn, however, succeeded better than she did; for he presently made -his appearance with a very beautiful and fragrant nosegay, which I -found, to my utter dismay, had been levied from a gentleman's private -garden in my name. My horror was excessive at this, and was scarcely -diminished when I discovered, upon enquiry, that they had been gathered -from Mr. ----'s garden; that gentleman having large property and a fine -residence here. He was not in Canandaigua himself; but, as we drove -past his house, I left cards for his lady, who must have thought my -demand on her green-house one of the greatest impertinencies extant. It -was nine o'clock when we left Canandaigua: we were all a little done up -with our two previous days; and it was unanimously settled that we -should proceed only to Rochester, a distance of between thirty and forty -miles, which we accomplished by two o'clock. - -Rochester, upon whose site, I understand, twenty years ago there stood -hardly a house, is now a large and populous manufacturing town. The -progress of life in this country is amazing. From day to day the -wilderness becomes inhabited, peopled, civilised; and where yesterday -the majestic woods were standing, and the silent waters gliding in all -the solemn solitude of unexplored nature, to-day the sound of the forge -and anvil is heard, the busy feet of men pass and repass, their mingled -voices resound, their dwellings arise; the wheels of a thousand -mechanical miracles clash, creak, and jar; the vapours of a thousand -steam-engines mingle with the hitherto lonely clouds; and the huge fins -of a thousand steam-boats beat the waters, carrying over their hitherto -undisturbed surface the vast produce of industry. The labours, the arts, -the knowledge, the wealth, the wonders of education and civilisation! It -is something that fills one with admiration, in the old, and eke the -new, sense of the word. - -The inn at which we alighted was large and comfortable: in the -drawing-room I found a very tolerable piano-forte, to which I instantly -betook myself. By the time we had seen our bed-rooms, and ordered -dinner, we found we should have leisure, before it was ready, to walk to -the falls of the Genesee (the river on which Rochester stands), which -have some celebrity for their beauty. A man from the hotel volunteered -to be our guide, and joined our party. We walked up the main street, -which was crowded and full of business. From this, presently turning -off, we followed a wider road, with houses and pretty flower gardens on -each side, and reached, after half a mile's walk, a meadow skirted by a -deep ravine, through which the river ran; from whence we looked -immediately upon the falls. They would be, and were, I doubt not, once -beautiful; for the barrier of rock, over which the river throws itself -into the valley below, is of considerable breadth and height; but, alas! -the waters have been turned off to turn mills, and a thin curtain, which -falls over the rocks like a vapoury sheet of blue smoke, is all that -remains of the Genesee falls; whilst, from a thousand dingy-looking -mills and manufactories, the poor little rivulets of labouring water -come rushing through narrow dirty channels, all stained and foaming and -hot from their work, to throw themselves into the thin bosom of their -parent stream. Truly, mills and steam-engines are wonderful things, and -I know that men must live; but I wish it were not expedient to destroy -what God has made so very beautiful, in order to make it useful. Our -guide perceiving our admiration was a good deal excited by the -picturesque beauty of the scene, fell into a species of rhapsody, -which terminated thus: "Yes, sir, when I see the waters thus falling -_from the bottom to the top_; I say, sir, when I look at the -water falling from _the bottom to the top_, I can compare it to -nothing--but--but--but--wool out of a cotton-mill!" This was an -unlooked-for climax, and gave us all a violent inclination to laugh in -the face of the orator; which, however, would have been exceedingly -wrong; for so sincere was the good man in his enthusiasm, that he was -not in the least aware of the miraculous proceeding which he twice, with -much emphasis, ascribed to the _upward falling_ water.[107] - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -We waited in this meadow for the passing of a train of rail-road -carriages, which run between Rochester and a small village about three -miles distant, where the river was said to be very beautiful. We hailed -them as they went by, and proceeded in them to their destination. The -view itself, from this point, though romantic and pretty, was scarce -worth going out of the way for; the walk back, however, was delightful. -The river runs here through a deep gully, the banks rising precipitously -above a hundred feet on each side of it. On one side they are -beautifully and thickly wooded; the other presents a bare wall of -reddish rock lying in very regular strata. About a mile and a half -below the falls, the channel of the river contracts itself, and the -water, forcing its way through some irregular rocky projections, forms a -very pretty miniature cataract. We walked along the high margin of the -glen, upon some very thick soft turf, looking down upon the deep bed of -the water, and enjoying a delicious fresh breeze. 'Tis curious enough, -that upon this strip of turf, close to the high road, under the shelter -of a group of trees, we found a couple of tomb-stones. They were -carefully railed round, and bore the names of a man and his wife, -without, however, assigning any cause for their choice of a burial-place -so public and unhallowed. The last mile of our walk was by no means so -agreeable as the previous part had been. Nearing the town, we had to -leave the brink of the river and follow the dusty track of the -rail-road. When we reached Rochester, we dined; after which I went and -lay down, and slept till tea-time. When I came down to tea, found the -gentlemen profoundly busied: ---- writing home, Mr. ---- journalising, -my father poring over maps and road-books, to find out if we could not -possibly get as far as Niagara to-morrow. - - -_Tuesday, 16th._ - -Had to get up before I'd half done my sleep. At six, started from -Rochester for Murray, where we purposed breakfasting. Just as we were -nearing the inn, at this same place, our driver took it into his head to -give us a taste of his quality. We were all earnestly engaged in a -discussion, when suddenly I felt a tremendous sort of stunning blow, and -as soon as I opened my eyes, found that the coach was overturned, lying -completely on its side. I was very comfortably curled up under my -father, who, by Heaven's mercy, did not suffocate me; opposite sat -D----, as white as a ghost, with her forehead cut open, and an -awful-looking stream of blood falling from it; by her stood Mr. ----, -also as pale as ashes: ---- was perched like a bird above us all, on the -edge of the doorway, which was open. The first thing I did, was to cry -as loud as ever I could, "I'm not hurt, I'm not hurt!" which assurance I -shouted sufficiently lustily to remove all anxiety from their minds. The -next thing was to get my father up; in accomplishing which, he trampled -upon me most cruelly. As soon as I was relieved from his mountainous -pressure, I got up, and saw, to my dismay, two men carrying Mr. ---- -into the house. We were all convinced that some of his limbs were -broken: I ran after as quickly as I could, and presently the house was -like an hospital. They carried him into an upper room, and laid him on a -bed; here, too, they brought D----, all white and bleeding. Our -hand-baskets and bags were ransacked for salts and eau de Cologne. Cold -water, hot water, towels, and pocket handkerchiefs, were called into -requisition; and I, with my clothes all torn, and one shoulder all -bruised and cut, went from the one to the other in utter dismay. -Presently, to my great relief, Mr. ---- revived; and gave ample -testimony of having the use of his limbs, by getting up, and, in the -most skilful manner, plastering poor D----'s broken brow up. ---- went -in quest of my father, who had received a violent blow on his leg, and -was halting about, looking after the baggage and the driver, who had -escaped unhurt.[108] The chief cause of our misfortune was the economy -with which the stage-coaches are constructed in this thrifty land; that -is, they have but one door, and, of course, are obliged to be turned -round much oftener than if they had two: in wheeling us, therefore, -rapidly up to the inn, and turning the coach with the side that had a -door towards the house, we swung over, and fell. While the coach was -being repaired, and the horses changed, we, bound up, bruised, and -aching, but still very merry, sat down to breakfast. Mr. ----, who had -been merely stunned, seized on the milk and honey, and stuffed away with -great zeal: poor D---- was the most deplorable of the party, with a -bloody handkerchief bound over one half her face; I only ached a little, -and I believe ---- escaped with a scratch on his finger; so, seeing it -was no worse, we thanked God, and devoured. After breakfast, we packed -ourselves again in our vehicle, and progressed. Mr. ---- had procured -for me a bunch of flowers; and I amused myself with making a wreath of -them. Our route lay over what is called the Ridge road; a very -remarkable tract, pursuing a high embankment, which was once the -boundary of Lake Ontario; though the waters are now distant from it -upwards of seven miles. The theories of the geologists respecting the -former position of the lake are very singular; though borne out by -similar instances of natural convulsions, and also by the very features -of the land. The country through which we journeyed to-day was wilder -and less cultivated than any we have yet seen. A great deal of forest -land, consisting of close, thin, tall, second-growth, springing around -the stump of many a huge tree; thick tangled underwood; marsh and damp -green wilderness, where the grass and bushes trailed about in rank -luxuriance; and piles of felled timber, with here and there a root yet -smoking, bore witness to the first inroads of human cultivation. None of -the trees that were standing were of any girth, or comparable in size -and beauty to our park trees; but some of the stumps were of large size, -and must have been the foundations of noble forest pillars. Our road, -after leaving the Ridge road, was horrible: for some length of time -before we reached Lockport, we were dragged over what is called a -_corduroy road_; which consists merely of logs of wood laid close to -each other, the natural inequalities of which produce a species of -jolting incomparably superior to any other I ever felt, and -administering but little comfort either to our bruised bones or -apprehensive nerves. - -We reached Lockport at about four o'clock. There had been rain in the -course of the morning, but the evening was clear, though very cold. The -appearance of Lockport is very singular: a collection of new white -houses, that look as though they were but this instant finished, -standing in a half-cleared wilderness. All round the town, if such it -may be called, stretch the remains of the once pathless woods, half -cleared, half savage-looking yet; and, as far as the eye can reach, the -country presents a series of dreary slopes, covered with prostrate -trees, heaps of hewn timber, smoking stumps, and blackened trunks--a -sort of forest stubble-land--a very desolate-looking thing indeed. The -house where we stopped appeared to be hardly finished. We ordered -dinner, and I forthwith began kindling a fire, which was extremely -welcome to us all. I was very much bruised with our morning's overturn, -and went and lay down in my bed-room, where I presently slept -profoundly. - - -_Wednesday, 17th._ - -At nine o'clock, we started from Lockport: before doing so, however, we -went down to the canal side to look at the works, which are here very -curious and interesting. ---- ran into a bookseller's shop, and got -----'s book for me, which he was going to pounce upon without knowing -what it was; and ----, for some reasons best known to himself, snatched -it away from him, saying it was a book which he was sure he would not -like. The road between Lockport and Lewistown is very pretty; and we got -out and walked whenever the horses were changed. At one place where we -stopped, I saw a meek-eyed, yellowish-white cart-horse, standing with a -man's saddle on his back. The opportunity was irresistible, and the -desire too--I had not backed a horse for so long. So I got up upon the -amazed quadruped, woman's fashion, and took a gallop through the fields, -with infinite risk of falling off, and proportionate satisfaction. We -reached Lewistown at about noon, and anxious enquiries were instituted -as to how our luggage was to be forwarded, when on the other side; for -we were _exclusive extras_; and for creatures so above common fellowship -there is no accommodation in this levelling land. A ferry and a -ferry-boat, however, it appeared, there were, and thither we made our -way. While we were waiting for the boat, I climbed out on the branches -of a huge oak, which grew over the banks of the river, which here rise -nearly a hundred feet high. Thus comfortably perched, like a bird, -'twixt heaven and earth, I copied off some verses which I had scrawled -just before leaving Lockport. The ferry-boat being at length procured, -we got into it. The day was sultry; the heat intolerable. - -The water of this said river Niagara is of a most peculiar colour, like -a turquoise when it turns green. It was like a thick stream of -verdigris, full of pale milky streaks, whirls, eddies, and -counter-currents, and looked as if it were running up by one bank, and -down by the other. I sat in the sun, on the floor of the boat, revising -my verses. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Arrived on the other side, _i. e._ Canada, there was a second pause, as -to how we were to get conveyed to the Falls. My father, ----, and D---- -betook themselves to an inn by the road-side, which promised -information and assistance; and ---- and I, clambering up the heights of -Queenston, sat ourselves down under some bushes, whence we looked -towards Lake Ontario, and where he told me the history of the place; how -his countrymen had thumped my countrymen upon this spot, and how the -English general Brock had fallen near where we sat. A monument, in the -shape of a stone pillar, has been erected to his memory; and to the top -of this ---- betook himself to reconnoitre; which ambitious expedition I -felt no inclination to share. After he had been gone some time, I -thought I perceived signs of stirring down by the inn door: I toiled up -the hill to the base of the pillar to fetch him, and we proceeded down -to the rest of the party. An uneasy-looking rickety cart without springs -was the sole conveyance we could obtain, and into this we packed -ourselves. ---- brought me some beautiful roses, which he had been -stealing for me, and ---- gave me a glass of milk; with which -restoratives I comforted myself, and we set forth. As we squeaked and -creaked (I mean our vehicle) up the hill, I thought either my father's -or ----'s weight quite enough to have broken the whole down; but it did -not happen. My mind was eagerly dwelling on what we were going to see: -that sight which ---- said was the only one in the world which had not -disappointed him. I felt absolutely nervous with expectation. The sound -of the cataract is, they say, heard within fifteen miles when the wind -sets favourably: to-day, however, there was no wind; the whole air was -breathless with the heat of midsummer, and, though we stopped our waggon -once or twice to listen as we approached, all was profoundest silence. -There was no motion in the leaves of the trees, not a cloud sailing in -the sky; every thing was as though in a bright warm death. When we were -within about three miles of the Falls, just before entering the village -of Niagara, ---- stopped the waggon; and then we heard distinctly, -though far off, the voice of the mighty cataract. Looking over the -woods, which appeared to overhang the course of the river, we beheld one -silver cloud rising slowly into the sky,--the everlasting incense of the -waters. A perfect frenzy of impatience seized upon me: I could have set -off and run the whole way; and when at length the carriage stopped at -the door of the Niagara house, waiting neither for my father, D----, nor -----, I rushed through the hall, and the garden, down the steep footpath -cut in the rocks. I heard steps behind me; ---- was following me: down, -down I sprang, and along the narrow footpath, divided only by a thicket -from the tumultuous rapids. I saw through the boughs the white glimmer -of that sea of foam. "Go on, go on; don't stop," shouted ----; and in -another minute the thicket was passed: I stood upon Table Rock. ---- -seized me by the arm, and, without speaking a word, dragged me to the -edge of the rapids, to the brink of the abyss. I saw Niagara.--Oh, God! -who can describe that sight? - - -THE END. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] I do not know how it is to be accounted for, but in spite of much -lighter duties, every article of dress, particularly silks, -embroideries, and all French manufactures, are more expensive here than -in England. The extravagance of the American women in this part of their -expenditure is, considering the average fortunes of this country, quite -extraordinary. They never walk in the streets but in the most showy and -extreme toilet, and I have known twenty, forty, and sixty dollars paid -for a bonnet to wear in a morning saunter up Broadway. - -[2] These are the titles of three omnibuses which run up and down -Broadway all the day long. - -[3] The New Yorkers have begun to see the evil of their ways, as far as -regards their carriage-road in Broadway,--which is now partly -Macadamised. It is devoutly to be hoped, that the worthy authorities -will soon have as much compassion on the feet of their fellow-citizens, -as they have begun to have for their brutes. - -[4] The roughness and want of refinement, which is legitimately -complained of in this country is often however mitigated by instances of -civility, which would not be found commonly elsewhere. As I have noticed -above, the demeanour of men towards women in the streets is infinitely -more courteous here than with us; women can walk, too, with perfect -safety, by themselves, either in New York, Philadelphia, or Boston: on -board the steam-boats no person sits down to table until the ladies are -accommodated with seats; and I have myself in church benefited by the -civility of men who have left their pew, and stood, during the whole -service, in order to afford me room. - -[5] Saw a woman riding to-day; but she has gotten a black velvet beret -upon her head.--Only think of a beret on horseback! The horses here are -none of them properly broken: their usual pace being a wrong-legged -half-canter, or a species of shambling trot, denominated, with infinite -justice, a _rack_. They are all broken with snaffles instead of curbs, -carry their noses out, and pull horribly; I have not yet seen a decent -rider, either man or woman. - -[6] The spirit of independence, which is the common atmospheric air of -America, penetrates into the churches, as well as elsewhere. In Boston, -I have heard the Apostles' Creed mutilated and altered; once by the -omission of the passage "descended into hell," and another time, by the -substitution of the words "descended into the place of departed -spirits." - -[7] Unfortunately this precaution does not fulfil its purpose; universal -suffrage is a political fallacy: and will be one of the stumbling-blocks -in the path of this country's greatness. I do not mean that it will -lessen her wealth, or injure her commercial and financial resources; but -it will be an insuperable bar to the progress of mental and intellectual -cultivation--'tis a plain case of action and reaction. If the mass, _i. -e._ the inferior portion, (for when was the mass not inferior?) elect -their own governors, they will of course elect an inferior class of -governors, and the government of such men will be an inferior -government; that it may be just, honest, and rational, I do not dispute; -but that it ever will be enlarged, liberal, and highly enlightened, I do -not, and cannot, believe. - -[8] I do not know whether his honour the Recorder's information applied -only to the state of New York, or included all the others; 'tis not one -of the least strange features which this strange political process, the -American government, presents, that each state is governed by its own -laws; thus forming a most involved and complicated whole, where each -part has its own individual machinery; or, to use a more celestial -phraseology, its own particular system. - -[9] Whoever pretends to write any account of "Men and Manners" in -America must expect to find his own work give him the lie in less than -six months; for both men and manners are in so rapid a state of progress -that no record of their ways of being and doing would be found correct -at the expiration of that term, however much so at the period of its -writing. Broadway is not only partly Macadamised since first we arrived -here, but there are actually to be seen in it now two or three carriages -of decent build, with hammercloths, foot-boards, and even once or twice -lately I have seen footmen standing on those foot-boards!!! - -[10] Perhaps one reason for the perfect coolness with which a fire is -endured in New York is the dexterity and courage of the firemen: they -are, for the most part, respectable tradesmen's sons, who enlist in this -service, rather than the militia; and the vigilance and activity with -which their duty is discharged deserves the highest praise. - -[11] I have lately read Goethe's Wilhelm Meister. In that wonderful -analysis of the first work of our master-mind by his German peer, all -has been said upon this subject that the most philosophical reason, or -poetical imagination, can suggest; and who that has read it can forget -that most appropriate and beautiful simile, wherein Hamlet's mind is -likened to an acorn planted in a porcelain vase--the seed becomes -living--the roots expand--and the fragile vessel bursts into a thousand -shivers! - -[12] The fish of these waters may be excellent in the water; but owing -to the want of care and niceness with which they are kept after being -caught, they are very seldom worth eating when brought to table. They -have no turbot or soles, a great national misfortune: their best fish -are rock-fish, bass, shad (an excellent herring, as big as a small -salmon), and sheep's-head. Cod and salmon I have eaten; but from the -above cause they were never comparable to the same fish at an English -table. The lobsters, crabs, and oysters are all gigantic, frightful to -behold, and not particularly well-flavoured: their size makes them tough -and coarse. - -[13] My friend was entertaining himself, at the expense of my credulity, -in making this assertion. The rattle-snakes and red Indians have fled -together before the approach of civilisation; and it would be as -difficult to find the one as the other in the vicinity of any of the -large cities of the northern states. - -[14] It is two years since I visited Hoboken for the first time; it is -now more beautiful than ever. The good taste of the proprietor has made -it one of the most picturesque and delightful places imaginable; it -wants but a good carriage-road along the water's edge (for which the -ground lies very favourably) to make it as perfect a public promenade as -any European city can boast, with the advantage of such a river, for its -principal object, as none of them possess. - -I think the European traveller, in order to form a just estimate both of -the evils and advantages deriving from the institutions of this country, -should spend one day in the streets of New York, and the next in the -walks of Hoboken. If in the one, the toil, the care, the labour of mind -and body, the outward and visible signs of the debasing pursuit of -wealth, are marked in melancholy characters upon every man he meets, and -bear witness to the great curse of the country; in the other, the crowds -of happy, cheerful, enjoying beings of that order, which, in the old -world, are condemned to ceaseless and ill-requited labour, will testify -to the blessings which counterbalance that curse. I never was so -forcibly struck with the prosperity and happiness of the lower orders of -society in this country as yesterday returning from Hoboken. The walks -along the river and through the woods, the steamers crossing from the -city, were absolutely thronged with a cheerful well-dressed population -abroad, merely for the purpose of pleasure and exercise. Journeymen, -labourers, handicraftsmen, tradespeople, with their families, bearing -all in their dress and looks evident signs of well-being and -contentment, were all flocking from their confined avocations, into the -pure air, the bright sunshine, and beautiful shade of this lovely place. -I do not know any spectacle which could give a foreigner, especially an -Englishman, a better illustration of that peculiar excellence of the -American government--the freedom and happiness of the lower classes. -Neither is it to be said that this was a holiday, or an occasion of -peculiar festivity--it was a common week-day--such as our miserable -manufacturing population spends from sun-rise to sun-down, in confined, -incessant, unhealthy toil--to earn, at its conclusion, the inadequate -reward of health and happiness so wasted. The contrast struck me -forcibly--it rejoiced my heart; it surely was an object of -contemplation, that any one who had a heart must have rejoiced in. -Presently, however, came the following reflections:--These people are -happy--their wants are satisfied, their desires fulfilled--their -capacities of enjoyment meet with full employment--they are well -fed--well clothed--well housed--moderate labour insures them all this, -and leaves them leisure for such recreations as they are capable of -enjoying; but how is it with me?--and I mean not _me myself_ alone, but -all who, like myself, have received a higher degree of mental -cultivation, whose estimate of happiness is, therefore, so much higher, -whose capacity for enjoyment is so much more expanded and -cultivated;--can I be satisfied with a race in a circular railroad car, -or a swing between the lime-trees? where are my peculiar objects of -pleasure and recreation? where are the picture-galleries--the -sculptures--the works of art and science--the countless wonders of human -ingenuity and skill--the cultivated and refined society--the intercourse -with men of genius, literature, scientific knowledge--where are all the -sources from which I am to draw my recreations? They are not. The heart -of a philanthropist may indeed be satisfied, but the intellectual man -feels a dearth that is inexpressibly painful; and in spite of the real -and great pleasure which I derived from the sight of so much enjoyment, -I could not help desiring that enjoyment of another order were combined -with it. Perhaps the two are incompatible; if so, I would not alter the -present state of things if I could. - -The losers here are decidedly in the minority. Indeed, so much so, as -hardly to form a class; they are a few individuals, scattered over the -country, and of course their happiness ought not to come into -competition with that of the mass of the people; but the Americans, at -the same time that they make no provision whatever for the happiness of -such a portion of their inhabitants, would be very angry if one were to -say it was a very inconsiderable one, and yet that is the truth. - -[15] The climate of this country is the scape-goat upon which all the -ill looks and ill health of the ladies is laid; but while they are -brought up as effeminately as they are, take as little exercise, live in -rooms like ovens during the winter, and marry as early as they do, it -will appear evident that many causes combine, with an extremely variable -climate, to sallow their complexions, and destroy their constitutions. - -[16] The hackney coaches in this country are very different from those -perilous receptacles of dust and dirty straw, which disgrace the London -stands. They are comfortable within, and clean without; and the horses -harnessed to them never exhibit those shocking specimens of cruelty and -ill usage which the poor hack horses in London present. Indeed (and it -is a circumstance which deserves notice, for it bespeaks general -character,) I have not seen, during a two years' residence in this -country, a single instance of brutality towards animals, such as one is -compelled to witness hourly in the streets of any English town. - -[17] There is a striking difference in this respect between the -tradespeople of New York and those of Boston and Philadelphia; and in my -opinion the latter preserve quite self-respect enough to acquit their -courtesy and civility from any charge of servility. The only way in -which I can account for the difference, is the greater impulse which -trade receives in New York, the proportionate rapidity with which -fortunes are made, the ever-shifting materials of which its society is -composed, and the facility with which the man who has served you behind -his counter, having amassed an independence, assumes a station in the -first circle, where his influence becomes commensurate with his wealth. -This is not the case either in Boston or Philadelphia, at least not to -the same degree. - -[18] The universal hour of dining, in New York, when first we arrived, -was three o'clock; after which hour the cooks took their departure, and -nothing was to be obtained fit to eat, either for love or money: this -intolerable nuisance is gradually passing away; but even now, though we -can get our dinner served at six o'clock, it is always dressed at three; -its excellence may be imagined from that. To say the truth, I think the -system upon which all houses of public entertainment are conducted in -this country is a sample of the patience and long-suffering with which -dirt, discomfort, and exorbitant charges may be borne by a whole -community, without resistance, or even remonstrance. The best exceptions -I could name to these various inconveniences are, first, Mr. Cozzen's -establishment at West Point; next, the Tremont at Boston, and, lastly, -the Mansion House at Philadelphia. In each of these, wayfarers may -obtain some portion of decent comfort: but they have their drawbacks; in -the first, there are no private sitting-rooms; and in the last, the -number of servants is inadequate to the work. The Tremont is by far the -best establishment of the sort existing at present. Mr. A----, the -millionnaire of New York, is about to remedy this deficiency, by the -erection of a magnificent hotel in Broadway. One thing, however, is -certain; neither he nor any one else will ever succeed in having a -decent house, if the servants are not a little superior to the Irish -savages who officiate in that capacity in most houses, public and -private, in the northern states of America. - -[19] It is fortunate for the managers of the Park Theatre, and very -unfortunate for the citizens of New York, that the audiences who -frequent that place of entertainment are chiefly composed of the -strangers who are constantly passing in vast numbers through this city. -It is not worth the while of the management to pay a good company, when -an indifferent one answers their purpose quite as well: the system upon -which theatrical speculations are conducted in this country is, having -one or two "stars" for the principal characters, and nine or ten sticks -for all the rest. The consequence is, that a play is never decently -acted, and at such times as stars are scarce, the houses are very -deservedly empty. The terrestrial audiences suffer much by this mode of -getting up plays; but the celestial performers, the stars propped upon -sticks, infinitely more. - -[20] Stewart--Bonfanti. The name of shopkeepers in Broadway: the -former's is the best shop in New York. - -[21] Were the morality that I constantly hear uttered a little more -consistent, not only with right reason, but with itself, I think it -might be more deserving of attention and respect. But the mock delicacy, -which exists to so great a degree with regard to theatrical exhibitions, -can command neither the one nor the other. To those who forbid all -dramatic representations, as exhibitions of an unhealthy tendency upon -our intellectual and moral nature, I have no objections, at present, to -make. Unqualified condemnation, particularly when adopted on such -grounds, may be a sincere, a respectable, perhaps a right, opinion. I -have but one reply to offer to it: the human mind requires recreation; -is not a theatre (always supposing it to be, not what theatres too often -are, but what they ought to be), is not a theatre a better, a higher, a -more noble, and useful place of recreation than a billiard-room, or the -bar of a tavern? Perhaps in the course of the moral and intellectual -improvement of mankind, _all_ these will give way to yet purer and more -refined sources of recreation; but in the mean time, I confess, with its -manifold abuses, a play-house appears to me worthy of toleration, if not -of approbation, as holding forth (when directed as it should be) a -highly intellectual, rational, and refined amusement. - -However, as I before said, my quarrel is not with those who condemn -indiscriminately all theatrical exhibitions; they may be right: at all -events, so sweeping a sentence betrays no inconsistency. But what are we -to say to individuals, or audiences, who turn with affected disgust from -the sallies of Bizarre and Beatrice, and who applaud and laugh, and are -delighted, at the gross immorality of such plays as the Wonder, and Rule -a Wife and have a Wife; the latter particularly, in which the immorality -and indecency are not those of expression only, but of conception, and -mingle in the whole construction of the piece, in which not one -character appears whose motives of action are not most unworthy, and -whose language is not as full of coarseness, as devoid of every -generous, elevated, or refined sentiment. (The tirades of Leon are no -exception; for in the mouth of a man who marries such a woman as -Marguerita, by such means, and for such an end, they are mere -mockeries.) I confess that my surprise was excited when I was told that -an American audience would not endure that portion of Beatrice's wit -which the London censors have spared, and that Othello was all but a -proscribed play; but it was infinitely more so, when I found that the -same audience tolerated, or rather encouraged with their presence and -applause, the coarse productions of Mrs. Centlivre and Beaumont and -Fletcher. With regard to the Inconstant, it is by far the most moral of -Farquhar's plays; that, perhaps, is little praise, for the Recruiting -Officer, and the Beaux' Stratagem, are decidedly the reverse. But in -spite of the licentiousness of the writing, in many parts, the -construction, the motive, the action of the play is not licentious; the -characters are far from being utterly debased in their conception, or -depraved in the sentiments they utter (excepting, of course, the -companions of poor Mirable's last revel); the women, those surest -criterions, by whose principles and conduct may be formed the truest -opinion of the purity of the social atmosphere, the women, though free -in their manners and language (it was the fashion of their times, and of -the times before them, when words did not pass for deeds, either good or -bad), are essentially honest women; and Bizarre, coarse as her -expressions may appear, has yet more _real_ delicacy than poor Oriana, -whose womanly love causes her too far to forget her womanly pride. Of -the catastrophe of this play, and its frightfully-pointed moral, little -need be said to prove that its effect is likely to be far more -wholesome, because far more homely, than that of most theatrical -inventions; invention, indeed, it is not, and its greatest interest, as -perhaps its chief utility, is drawn from the circumstance of its being a -faithful representation of a situation of unequalled horror, in which -the author himself was placed, and from which he was rescued precisely -as he extricates his hero. Of the truth and satirical power of the -dialogue, none who understand it can dispute; and if, instead of -attaching themselves to the farcical romping of Bizarre and her -ungallant lover, the modest critics of this play had devoted some -attention to the dialogues between young and old Mirable, their nice -sense of decency would have been less shocked, and they might have found -themselves repaid by some of the most pointed, witty, and pithy writing -in English dramatic literature. I am much obliged to such of my friends -as lamented that I had to personate Farquhar's impertinent heroine; for -my own good part, I would as lief be such a one, as either Jane Shore, -Mrs. Haller, Lady Macbeth, or the wild woman Bianca. I know that great -crimes have a species of evil grandeur in them; they spring only from a -powerful soil, they are in their very magnitude respectable. I know that -mighty passions have in their very excess a frightful majesty, that -asserts the vigour of the natures from which they rise; and there is as -little similarity between them, and the base, degraded, selfish, -cowardly tribe of petty larceny vices with which human societies abound, -as there is between the caterpillar blight, that crawls over a fertile -district, gnawing it away inch-meal, and the thunderbolt that scathes, -or the earthquake that swallows the same region, in its awful mission of -destruction. But I maintain that freedom of expression and manner is by -no means an indication of laxity of morals, and again repeat that -Bizarre is free in her words, but not in her principles. The authoress -of the most graceful and true analysis of Shakspeare's female characters -has offered a better vindication of their manners than I could write; I -can only say, I pity sincerely all those who, passing over the exquisite -purity, delicacy, and loveliness of their conception, dwell only upon -modes of expression which belong to the times in which their great -creator lived. With respect to the manner in which audiences are -affected by what they hear on the stage, I cannot but think that -gentlemen, who wish their wives and daughters to hear no language of an -exceptionable nature, had better make themselves acquainted with what -they take them to see, or, at all events, avoid, when in the theatre, -attracting their attention to expressions which their disapprobation -serves only to bring into notice, and which had much better escape -unheard, or at least unheeded. Voluminous as this note has become, I -cannot but add one word with respect to the members of the profession to -which I have belonged. Many actresses that I have known, in the -performance of unvirtuous or unlovely characters (I cannot, however, -help remembering that they were also secondary parts), have thought fit -to impress the audience with the wide difference between their assumed -and real disposition, by acting as ill, and looking as cross as they -possibly could, which could not but be a great satisfaction to any moral -audience. I have seen this done by that fine part in Milman's Fazio, -Aldabella, repeatedly, and not unfrequently by the Queen in Hamlet, -Margarita in Rule a Wife and have a Wife (I scarcely wonder at that, -though), and even by poor Shakspeare's Lady Falconbridge. I think this -is a mistake: the audience, I believe, never forget that the actress is -not indeed the wicked woman she seems. In one instance that might have -been the case, perhaps. I speak of a great artist, whose efforts I never -witnessed, but whose private excellence I have a near right to rejoice -in, and who was as true in her performance of the wretch Millwood, as in -her personifications of Shakspeare's grandest creations. - -[22] The Russians and Danes are rich in the possession of an original -and most touching national music; Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, are -alike favoured with the most exquisite native melodies, probably, in the -world. France, though more barren in the wealth of sweet sounds, has a -few fine old airs, that redeem her from the charge of utter sterility. -Austria, Bohemia, and Switzerland, each claim a thousand beautiful and -characteristic mountain songs; Italy is the very palace of music, -Germany its temple; Spain resounds with wild and martial strains, and -the thick groves of Portugal with native music, of a softer and sadder -kind. All the nations of Europe, I presume all those of all the world, -possess some kind of national music, and are blessed by Heaven with some -measure of perception as to the loveliness of harmonious sounds. England -alone, England and her descendant America, seems to have been denied a -sense, to want a capacity, to have been stinted of a faculty, to the -possession of which she vainly aspires. The rich spirit of Italian -music, the solemn soul of German melody, the wild free Euterpe of the -Cantons, have in vain been summoned by turns to teach her how to listen; -'tis all in vain--she does listen painfully; she has learnt by dint of -time, and much endurance, the technicalities of musical science; she -pays regally her instructors in the divine pleasure, but all in vain: -the spirit of melody is not in her; and in spite of hosts of foreign -musicians, in spite of the King's Theatre, in spite of Pasta, in spite -of music-masters paid like ministers of state, in spite of singing and -playing young ladies, and criticising young gentlemen, England, to the -last day of her life, will be a dunce in music, for she hath it not in -her; neither, if I am not much mistaken, hath her daughter. - -[23] It is but justice to state, that this house has passed into other -hands, and is much improved in every respect. Strangers, particularly -Englishmen, will find a great convenience in the five o'clock ordinary, -now established there, which is, I am told, excellently conducted and -appointed. - -[24] The whole of this passage is in fact a succession of small bays, -forming a continuation to the grand bay of New York, and dividing Staten -Island from the mainland of New Jersey; the Raritan river does not -properly begin till Amboy, where it empties itself into a bay of its own -name. - -[25] I had always heard that the face of nature was gigantic in America; -and truly we found the wrinkles such for so young a country. The ruts -were absolute abysses. - -[26] The southern, western, and eastern states of North America have -each their strong peculiarities of enunciation, which render them easy -of recognition. The Virginian and New England accents appear to me the -most striking; Pennsylvania and New York have much less brogue; but -through all their various tones and pronunciations a very strong nasal -inflection preserves their universal brotherhood. They all speak through -their noses, and at the top of their voices. Of dialects, properly so -called, there are none; though a few expressions, peculiar to particular -states, which generally serve to identify their citizens; but these are -not numerous, and a jargon approaching in obscurity that of many of our -counties is not to be met with. The language used in society generally -is unrefined, inelegant, and often ungrammatically vulgar; but it is -more vulgar than unintelligible by far. - -[27] This appears to me to be a most frequent ailment among the American -ladies: they must have particularly bilious constitutions. I never -remember travelling in a steam-boat, on the smoothest water, without -seeing sundry "afflicted fair ones," who complained bitterly of -_sea-sickness_ in the river. - -[28] In spite of its beauty, or rather on that very account, an American -autumn is to me particularly sad. It presents a union of beauty and -decay, that for ever reminds me of that loveliest disguise death puts -on, when the cheek is covered with roses, and the eyes are like stars, -and the life is perishing away; even so appear the gorgeous colours of -the withering American woods. 'Tis a whole forest dying of consumption. - -[29] The magnolia and azalia are two of these; and earlier in the -summer, the whole country looks like fairy-land, with the profuse and -lovely blossoms of the wild laurel, an evergreen shrub unequalled for -its beauty, and which absolutely overruns every patch of uncultivated -ground. I wonder none of our parks have yet been adorned with it: it is -a hardy plant, and I should think would thrive admirably in England. - -[30] In the opening chapter of that popular work, Eugene Aram, are the -following words:--"It has been observed, and there is a world of homely, -ay, and of legislative knowledge in the observation, that wherever you -see a flower in a cottage garden, or a bird-cage at the window, you may -feel sure that the cottagers are better and wiser than their -neighbours." The truth of this observation is indisputable. But for such -"humble tokens of attention to something beyond the _sterile labour_ of -life" you look in vain during a progress through this country. In New -England alone, neatness and a certain endeavour at rustic elegance and -adornment, in the cottages and country residences, recall those of their -fatherland; and the pleasure of the traveller is immeasurably heightened -by this circumstance. If the wild beauties of uncultivated nature lead -our contemplations to our great Maker, these lowly witnesses of the -industry and natural refinement of the laborious cultivator of the soil -warm our heart with sympathy for our kind, and the cheering conviction -that, however improved by cultivation, the sense of beauty, and the love -of what is lovely, have been alike bestowed upon all our race; 'tis a -wholesome conviction, which the artificial divisions of society too -often cause us to lose sight of. The labourer, who, after "sweating in -the eye of Phoebus" all the day, at evening trains the fragrant jasmine -round his lowly door, is the very same man who, in other circumstances, -would have been the refined and liberal patron of those arts which -reflect the beauty of nature. - -[31] In all my progress I looked in vain for the refreshing sight of a -hedge--no such thing was to be seen; and their extreme rarity throughout -the country renders the more cultivated parts of it arid looking and -comparatively dreary. These crooked fences in the south, and stone walls -to the north, form the divisions of the fields, instead of those -delicious "hedge-rows green," where the old elms delight to grow, where -the early violets and primroses first peep sheltered forth, where the -hawthorn blossoms sweeten the summer, the honeysuckle hangs its yellow -garlands in the autumn, and the red "hips and haws" shine like bushes of -earthly coral in the winter. - -But the Americans are in too great a hurry to plant hedges: they have -abundance of native material; but a wooden fence is put up in a few -weeks, a hedge takes as many years to grow; and, as I said before, an -American has not time to be a year about anything. When first the -country was settled, the wood was an encumbrance, and it was cut down -accordingly: that is by no means the case now; and the only -recommendation of these fences is, therefore, the comparative rapidity -with which they can be constructed. One of the most amiable and -distinguished men of this country once remarked to me, that the -Americans were in too great a hurry about every thing they undertook to -bring any thing to perfection. And certainly, as far as my observation -goes, I should _calculate_ that an American is born, lives, and dies -twice as fast as any other human creature. I believe one of the great -inducements to this national hurry is, that "time is money," which is -true; but it is also true, sometimes, that "most haste makes worst -speed." - -[32] These are two very pretty villages, of Quaker origin, situated in -the midst of a fertile and lovely country, and much resorted to during -the summer season by the Philadelphians. - -[33] It has happened to me after a few hours' travelling in a steam-boat -to find the white dress, put on fresh in the morning, covered with -yellow tobacco stains; nor is this very offensive habit confined to the -lower orders alone. I have seen _gentlemen_ spit upon the carpet of the -room where they were sitting, in the company of women, without the -slightest remorse; and I remember once seeing a gentleman, who was -travelling with us, very deliberately void his tobacco-juice into the -bottom of the coach, instead of through the windows, to my inexpressible -disgust. - -[34] I wish that somebody would be so obliging as to impress people in -general with the extreme excellence of a perception of the _fitness of -things_. Besides the intrinsic beauty of works of art, they have a -beauty derived from their appropriateness to the situations in which -they are placed, and their harmony with the objects which surround them: -this minor species of beauty is yet a very great one. If it were more -studied, and better understood, public buildings would no longer appear -as if they had fallen out of the clouds by chance; parks and plantations -would no more have the appearance of nurseries, where the trees were -classed by kind, instead of being massed according to their various -forms and colours; and Gothic and classic edifices would not so often -seem as if they had forsaken their appropriate situations, to rear -themselves in climates, and among scenery, with which they in no way -harmonise. - -[35] Politics of all sorts, I confess, are far beyond my limited powers -of comprehension. Those of this country, as far as I have been able to -observe, resolve themselves into two great motives,--the aristocratic -desire of elevation and separation, and the democratic desire of -demolishing and levelling. Whatever may be the immediate cause of -excitement or discussion, these are the two master-springs to which they -are referable. Every man in America is a politician; and political -events, of importance only because they betray the spirit which would be -called into play by more stirring occasions, are occurring incessantly, -and keeping alive the interest which high and low alike take in the -evolutions of their political machine. Elections of state officers, -elections of civil authorities, all manner of elections (for America is -one perpetual contest for votes), are going on all the year round; and -whereas the politics of men of private stations in other countries are -kept quietly by them, and exhibited only on occasions of general -excitement, those of an American are as inseparable from him as his -clothes, and mix up with his daily discharge of his commonest daily -avocations. I was extremely amused at seeing over a hat-shop in New York -one day, "Anti-Bank Hat-Store," written in most attractive characters, -as an inducement for all good democrats to go in and purchase their -beavers of so republican a hatter. The universal-suffrage system is of -course the cause of this general political mania; and during an election -of mayor or aldermen, the good shopkeepers of New York are in as fierce -a state of excitement as if the choice of a perpetual dictator were the -question in point. Politics is the main subject of conversation among -American men in society; but, as I said before, the immediate object of -discussion being most frequently some petty local interest or other, -strangers cannot derive much pleasure from, or feel much sympathy in, -the debate. - -[36] I have often thought that the constant demand for small theatres, -which I have heard made by persons of the higher classes of society in -England, was a great proof of the decline of the more imaginative -faculties among them; and the proportionate increase of that fastidious -and critical spirit, which is so far removed from every thing which -constitutes the essence of poetry. The idea of illusion in a dramatic -exhibition is confined to the Christmas spectators of old tragedies and -new pantomimes; the more refined portions of our English audiences yawn -through Shakspeare's historical plays, and _quiz_ through those which -are histories of human nature and its awful passions. They have -forgotten what human nature really is, and cannot even _imagine it_. -They require absolute reality on the stage, because their incapable -spirits scoff at poetical truth; and that absolute reality, in our days, -consists in such representations as the Rent Day; or (crossing the -water, for we dearly love what is foreign) the homely improbabilities of -Victorine, Henriette, and a pack of equally worthless subjects of -exhibition. Indeed, theatres have had an end; for the refined, the -highly educated, the first classes of society, they have had an end; it -will be long, however, before the mass is sufficiently refined to lose -all power of imagination; and while our aristocracy patronise French -melodramas, and seek their excitement in the most trashy -sentimentalities of the modern _école romantique_, I have some hopes -that our plebeian pits and galleries may still retain their sympathy for -the loves of Juliet and the sorrows of Ophelia. I would rather a -thousand times act either of those parts to a set of Manchester -mechanics, than to the most select of our aristocracy, for they are -"nothing, if not critical." - -[37] Kean is gone--and with him are gone Othello, Shylock, and Richard. -I have lived among those whose theatrical creed would not permit them to -acknowledge him as a great actor; but they must be bigoted, indeed, who -would deny that he was a great genius, a man of most original and -striking powers, careless of art, perhaps because he did not need it; -but possessing those rare gifts of nature, without which art alone is as -a dead body. Who that ever heard will ever forget the beauty, the -unutterable tenderness, of his reply to Desdemona's entreaties for -Cassio, "Let him come when he will, I can deny thee nothing;" the deep -despondency of his "Oh, now farewell;" the miserable anguish of his "Oh, -Desdemona, away, away!" Who that ever saw will ever forget the -fascination of his dying eyes in Richard, when, deprived of his sword, -the wondrous power of his look seemed yet to avert the uplifted arm of -Richmond. If he was irregular and unartistlike in his performances, so -is Niagara, compared with the water-works of Versailles. - -[38] I have acted Ophelia three times with my father, and each time, in -that beautiful scene where his madness and his love gush forth together -like a torrent swollen with storms, that bears a thousand blossoms on -its troubled waters, I have experienced such deep emotion as hardly to -be able to speak. The exquisite tenderness of his voice, the wild -compassion and forlorn pity of his looks bestowing that on others which, -above all others, he most needed; the melancholy restlessness, the -bitter self-scorning; every shadow of expression and intonation was so -full of all the mingled anguish that the human heart is capable of -enduring, that my eyes scarce fixed on his ere they filled with tears; -and long before the scene was over, the letters and jewel-cases I was -tendering to him were wet with them. The hardness of professed actors -and actresses is something amazing: after acting this part, I could not -but recall the various Ophelias I have seen, and commend them for the -astonishing absence of every thing like feeling which they exhibited. -Oh, it made my heart sore to act it. - -[39] I am speaking now only of the common saddle-horses that one sees -about the streets and roads. The southern breed of race-horses is a -subject of great interest and care to all sporting men here: they are -very beautiful animals, of a remarkably slight and delicate make. But -the perfection of horses in this country are those trained for trotting: -their speed is almost incredible. I have been whirled along in a -light-built carriage by a pair of famous professed trotters, who -certainly got over the ground at the rate of a moderate-going -steam-engine, and this without ever for a moment breaking into a gallop. -The fondness of the Americans for this sort of horses, however, is one -reason why one can so rarely obtain a well-mouthed riding-horse. These -trotters are absolutely carried on the bit, and require only a snaffle, -and an arm of iron to hold them up. A horse well set upon his haunches -is not to be met with; and owing to this mode of breaking, their action -is entirely from the head and shoulders; and they both look and feel as -if they would tumble down on their noses. - -[40] Except where they have been made political tools, newspaper writers -and editors have never, I believe, been admitted into good society in -England. It is otherwise here: newspapers are the main literature of -America; and I have frequently heard it quoted, as a proof of a man's -abilities, that he writes in such and such a newspaper. Besides the -popularity to be obtained by it, it is often attended with no small -literary consideration; and young men here, with talents of a really -high order, and who might achieve far better things, too often are -content to accept this very mediocre mode of displaying their abilities, -at very little expense of thought or study, and neglect far worthier -objects of ambition, and the rewards held out by a distant and permanent -fame. I know that half my young gentlemen acquaintance here would reply, -that they must live in the mean time: and it is a real and deep evil, -arising from the institutions of this country, that every man must toil -from day to day for his daily bread; and in this degrading and -spirit-loading care, all other nobler desires are smothered. It is a -great national misfortune. - -[41] This delightful virtue of neatness is carried almost to an -inconvenient pitch by the worthy Philadelphians: the town, every now and -then, appears to be in a perfect frenzy of cleanliness; and of a -Saturday morning, early, the streets are really impassable, except to a -good swimmer. "Cleanliness," says the old saw, "is near to godliness." -Philadelphia must be very near heaven. - -[42] The final result of our very unfortunate dealings with this -gentleman is, that our earnings (and they are not lightly come by), to -the amount of near three thousand dollars, are at this moment in the -hands of a trustee, and Heaven and a New England court of justice will -decide whether they are ever to come into ours. - -[43] When we arrived in America, we brought letters of introduction to -several persons in New York: many were civil enough to call upon us: we -were invited out to sundry parties, and were introduced into what is -there called the first society. I do not wish to enter into any -description of it, but will only say that I was most disagreeably -astonished; and had it been my fate to have passed through the country -as rapidly as most travellers do, I should have carried away a very -unfavourable impression of the _best_ society of New York. Fortunately, -however, for me, my visits were repeated, and my stay prolonged; and, in -the course of time, I became acquainted with many individuals whose -manners and acquirements were of a high order, and from whose -intercourse I derived the greatest gratification. But they generally did -me the favour to visit me; and I still could not imagine how it happened -that I never met them at the parties to which I was invited, and in the -circles where I visited. I soon discovered that they formed a society -among themselves, where all those qualities which I had looked for among -the self-styled _best_ were to be found. When I name Miss Sedgwick, -Halleck, Irving, Bryant, Paulding, and some of less fame, but whose -acquirements rendered their companionship delightful indeed, amongst -whom I felt proud and happy to find several of my own name, it will no -longer appear singular that they should feel too well satisfied with the -resources of their own society, either to mingle in that of the vulgar -_fashionables_, or seek with avidity the acquaintance of every stranger -that arrives in New York. It is not to be wondered at that foreigners -have spoken as they have of what is termed fashionable society here, or -have condemned, with unqualified censure, the manners and tone -prevailing in it. Their condemnations are true and just as regards what -they see; nor, perhaps, would they be much inclined to moderate them -when they found that persons possessing every quality that can render -intercourse between rational creatures desirable were held in light -esteem, and neglected, as either bores, blues, or dowdies, by those so -infinitely their inferiors in every worthy accomplishment. The same -separation, or, if any thing, a still stronger one, subsists in -Philadelphia between the self-styled fashionables and the really good -society. The distinction there is really of a nature perfectly -ludicrous. A friend of mine was describing to me a family whose manners -were unexceptionable and whose mental accomplishments were of a high -order: upon my expressing some surprise that I had never met with them, -my informant replied, "Oh, no, they are not received by the Chestnut -Street _set_." If I were called upon to define that society in New York -and Philadelphia which ranks (by right of self-arrogation) as first and -best, I should say it is a purely dancing society, where a fiddle is -indispensable to keep its members awake; and where their brains and -tongues seem, by common consent, to feel that they had much better give -up the care of mutual entertainment to the feet of the parties -assembled; and they judge well. Now, I beg leave clearly to be -understood, there is another, and a far more desirable circle; but it is -not the one into which strangers find their way generally. To an -Englishman, this _fashionable_ society presents, indeed, a pitiful -sample of lofty pretensions without adequate foundation. Here is a -constant endeavour to imitate those states of European society which -have for their basis the feudal spirit of the early ages, and which are -rendered venerable by their rank, powerful by their wealth, and refined, -and in some degree respectable, by great and general mental cultivation. -Of Boston, I have not spoken. The society there is of an infinitely -superior order. A very general degree of information, and a much greater -simplicity of manners, render it infinitely more agreeable. But of that -hereafter. - -[44] The beautiful villas on the banks of the Schuylkill are all either -utterly deserted and half ruinous, or let out by the proprietors to -tavern-keepers. The reason assigned for this is, that during that season -of the year when it would be most desirable to reside there, the fever -and ague takes possession of the place, and effectually banishes all -other occupants. This very extraordinary and capricious malady is as -uncertain in its residence, as unwelcome where it does fix its abode. -The courses of some of the rivers, and even whole tracts of country away -from the vicinity of the water, have been desolated by it: from these it -has passed away entirely, and removed itself to other districts, before -remarkably healthy. Sometimes it visits particular places at intervals -of one or two seasons; sometimes it attaches itself to one side of a -river, and leaves the inhabitants of the other in the enjoyment of -perfect health; in short, it is quite as unaccountable in its -proceedings as a fine lady. Many causes have been assigned as its -origin; which, however, have varied in credibility at almost every new -appearance of the malady. The enormous quantity of decaying vegetation -with which the autumn woods are strewn, year after year, till it -absolutely forms a second soil; the dam lately erected by the -water-works, and which, intercepting the tide, causes occasional -stagnation; the unwholesome action of water lodging in hollows in the -rocks; are all reasons which have been given to me when I have enquired -about this terrible nuisance along the banks of the Schuylkill: but -there is another, and one which appeared so obvious to me, that when -first I saw it, I felt much inclined to attribute the fever and ague to -that, and to that alone. I allude to a foul and stagnant ditch, lying -between the tow-path and the grounds of these country houses, of nearly -a mile in length, and of considerable width. When I saw the sun pouring -its intense light down into this muddy pool, covered with thick and -unwholesome incrustations, I could not help remarking that this alone -was quite sufficient to breed a malaria in the whole neighbourhood; and -that if the gentlemen proprietors of the lands along this part of the -river would drain this very poisonous-looking repository for bull-frogs, -their dwellings would, in all probability, be free from fever and ague. - -[45] This beautiful younger world appears to me to have received the -portion of the beloved younger son--the "coat of many colours." - -[46] This country is in one respect blessed above all others, and above -all others deserving of blessing. There are no poor--I say there are -none, there _need_ be none; none here need lift up the despairing voice -of hopeless and helpless want towards that Heaven which hears when men -will not. No father here need work away his body's health, and his -spirit's strength, in unavailing labour, from day to day, and from year -to year, bowed down by the cruel curse his fellows lay upon him. No -mother need wish, in the bitterness of her heart, that the children of -her breast had died before they exhausted that nourishment which was the -only one her misery could feel assured would not fail them. None need be -born to vice, for none are condemned to abject poverty. Oh, it makes the -heart sick to think of all the horrible anguish that has been suffered -by thousands and thousands of those wretched creatures, whose want -begets a host of moral evils fearful to contemplate; whose existence -begins in poverty, struggles on through care and toil, and -heart-grinding burdens, and ends in destitution, in sickness,--alas! too -often in crime and infamy. Thrice blessed is this country, for no such -crying evil exists in its bosom; no such moral reproach, no such -political rottenness. Not only is the eye never offended with those -piteous sights of human suffering, which make one's heart bleed, and -whose number appals one's imagination in the thronged thoroughfares of -the European cities; but the mind reposes with delight in the certainty -that not one human creature is here doomed to suffer and to weep through -life; not one immortal soul is thrown into jeopardy by the combined -temptations of its own misery, and the heartless selfishness of those -who pass it by without holding out so much as a finger to save it. If we -have any faith in the excellence of mercy and benevolence, we must -believe that this alone will secure the blessing of Providence on this -country. - -[47] Throughout all the northern states, and particularly those of New -England, the Unitarian form of faith prevails very extensively. It -appears to me admirably suited to the spiritual necessities of this -portion of the Americans. They are a reasoning, not an imaginative, -race; moreover, they are a hard-working, not an idle, one. It therefore -suits their necessities, as well as their character, to have a religious -creed divested at once of mysteries at which the rational mind excepts; -and of long and laborious ceremonies, which too often engross the time -without the attention of the worshipper. They are poor, too, -comparatively speaking; and, were they so inclined, could little afford, -either the splendid pageantry which the Romish priesthood require, or -the less glaring but not less expensive revenues which the Episcopalian -clergy enjoy. Their form of religion is a simple one, a short one, and a -cheap one. Without attempting to discuss its excellence in the abstract, -it certainly appears to me to be as much fitted for this people, as the -marvellous legends and magnificent shows of the Romish church were to -the early European nations. The church in America is not, as with us, -made a mere means of living: there are no rich benefices, or -over-swelled bishoprics, to be hoped for, by the man who devotes himself -to the service of God's altar: the pecuniary remuneration of the clergy -depends upon the generosity of their congregations; and, for the most -part, a sincere love of his vocation must be the American minister's -reward, as it was his original instigation to the work. - -[48] Whatever progress phrenology may have made in the convictions of -people in general, it is much to be hoped that the physiological -principles to which, in the development of their system, its professors -constantly advert, may find favour even with those who are not prepared -to admit the truth of the new philosophy of the human intellect. While -we have bodies as well as souls, we must take care of the health of our -bodies, if we wish our souls to be healthy. I have heard many people -mention the intimate union of spirit and matter, displayed in the -existence of a human being, as highly degrading to the former; however -that may be, it is certain that we by no means show our value for the -one, by neglecting and maltreating the other: and that if, instead of -lamenting over the unworthiness of the soul's fleshy partner, we were to -improve and correct and endeavour to ennoble it, we should do the wiser -thing. Upon a well-regulated digestion and circulation, and a healthful -nervous system, many of our virtues depend, much of our happiness; and -it is almost as impossible to possess a healthy and vigorous mind in a -diseased and debilitated body, as it is unusual to see a strong and -healthful body allied to an intemperate and ill-governed spirit. We have -some value for the casket which contains our jewel: then should we not -have some for that casket to which the jewel absolutely adheres, and -which cannot suffer injury itself without communicating it to that which -it contains? Exercise, regularity, and moderation in diet and sleep, -well-proportioned and varied studies and recreations,--these are none of -them subjects of trivial importance to the wise. Much of our ease and -contentedness depends upon them; much of our well-being, much of our -_well-doing_. - -[49] I think it has not been my good fortune, in more than six -instances, during my residence in this country, to find ladies "at home" -in the morning. The first reason for this is, the total impossibility of -having a housekeeper; the American servants steadfastly refusing to obey -_two_ mistresses; the being subservient to any appears, indeed, a -dreadful hardship to them. Of course this compels the lady of the house -to enter into all those minute daily details, which with us devolve upon -the superintendent servant, and she is thus condemned, at least for some -part of the morning, to the store-room or the kitchen. In consequence of -this, her toilet is seldom completed until about to take her morning -promenade; and I have been a good deal surprised, more than once, at -being told, when I called, that "the ladies were dressing, but would be -down immediately." This is French; the disorderly slouching about half -the morning in a careless undress being, unluckily, quite compatible -with that exquisite niceness of appearance with which the Parisian -ladies edify their streets so much, and their homes so little. Another -very disagreeable result of this arrangement is, that when you are -admitted into a house in the morning, the rooms appear as if they never -were used: there are no books lying about, no work-tables covered with -evidences of constant use, and if there is a piano, it is generally -closed; the whole giving one an uninhabited feel that is extremely -uncomfortable. As to a morning lounge in a lady's boudoir, or a -gentleman's library, the thing's unheard of; to be sure there are no -loungers, where every man is tied to a counting-house from morning till -night; and therefore no occasion for those very pleasant sanctums -devoted to gossiping, political, literary, and scandalous. - -[50] I am sure there is no town in Europe where my father could fix his -residence for a week, without being immediately found out by most of the -residents of any literary acquirements, or knowledge of matters relating -to art; I am sure that neither in France, Italy, or Germany, could he -take up his abode in any city, without immediately being sought by those -best worth knowing in it. I confess it surprised me, therefore, when I -found that, during a month's residence in Philadelphia, scarcely a -creature came near us, and but one house was hospitably opened to us; as -regards myself, I have no inclination whatever to speak upon the subject -but it gave me something like a feeling of contempt, not only for the -charities, but for the good taste of the Philadelphians, when I found -them careless and indifferent towards one whose name alone is a passport -into every refined and cultivated society in Europe. Every where else, -in America, our reception was very different; and I can only attribute -the want of courtesy we met with in Philadelphia to the greater -prevalence of that very small spirit of dignity which is always afraid -of committing itself. - -[51] The familiar appellation by which the democracy designate their -favourite, General Jackson. The hickory wood is the tallest and the -toughest possible, and by no means a bad type of some of the President's -physical and moral attributes. Hickory poles, as they are called, are -erected before most of the taverns frequented by the thorough-going -Jacksonites; and they are sometimes surmounted by the glorious "Cap of -Liberty," that much abused symbol, which has presided over so many -scenes of political frenzy. - -[52] In beholding this fine young giant of a world, with all its -magnificent capabilities for greatness, I think every Englishman must -feel unmingled regret at the unjust and unwise course of policy which -alienated such a child from the parent government. But, at the same -time, it is impossible to avoid seeing that some other course must, ere -long, have led to the same result, even if England had pursued a more -maternal course of conduct towards America. No one, beholding this -enormous country, stretching from ocean to ocean, watered with ten -thousand glorious rivers, combining every variety of climate and soil, -therefore, every variety of produce and population; possessing within -itself every resource that other nations are forced either to buy -abroad, or to create substitutes for at home; no one, seeing the -internal wealth of America, the abundant fertility of the earth's -surface, the riches heaped below it, the unparalleled facilities for the -intercourse of men, and the interchange of their possessions throughout -its vast extent, can for an instant indulge the thought that such a -country was ever destined to be an appendage to any other in the world, -or that any chain of circumstances whatever could have long maintained -in dependence a people furnished with every means of freedom and -greatness. But far from regretting that America has thrown off her -allegiance, and regarding her as a rebellious subject and irreverent -child, England will surely, ere long, learn to look upon this country as -the inheritor of her glory; the younger England, destined to perpetuate -the language, the memory, the virtues, of the noble land from which she -is descended. Loving and honouring my country as I do, I cannot look -upon America with any feeling of hostility. I not only hear the voice of -England in the language of this people, but I recognise in all their -best qualities, their industry, their honesty, their sturdy independence -of spirit, the very witnesses of their origin--they are English; no -other people in the world would have licked us as they did; nor any -other people in the world built up, upon the ground they won, so sound, -and strong, and fair an edifice. - -With regard to what I have said in the beginning of this note, of the -many reasons which combined to render this country independent of all -others, I think they in some measure tell against the probability of its -long remaining at unity with itself. Such numerous and clashing -interests; such strong and opposite individuality of character between -the northern and southern states; above all, such enormous extent of -country; seem rationally to present many points of insecurity, many -probabilities of separations and breakings asunder; but all this lies -far on, and I leave it to those who have good eyes for a distance. - -[53] I think the pretension to pre-eminence, in the various societies of -North America, is founded on these grounds. In Boston, a greater degree -of mental cultivation; in New York, the possession of wealth; and a -lady, of whom I enquired the other day what constituted the superiority -of the _aristocracy_ in Philadelphia, replied,--"Why, birth, to be -sure." Virginia and Carolina, indeed, long prided themselves upon their -old family names, which were once backed by large possessions; and for -many years the southern gentlemen might not improperly be termed the -aristocracy of America; but the estates of those who embraced the king's -cause during the rebellion were confiscated; and the annulling the laws -of entail and primogeniture, and the parcelling out of property under -the republican form of government, have gradually destroyed the fortunes -of most of the old southern families. Still, they hold fast to the -spirit of their former superiority, and from this circumstance, and the -possession of slaves, which exempts them from the drudgery of earning -their livelihood, they are a much less mercantile race of men than those -of the northern states; generally better informed, and infinitely more -polished in their manners. The few southerners with whom I have become -acquainted resemble Europeans both in their accomplishments, and the -quiet and reserve of their manners. On my remarking, one day, to a -Philadelphia gentleman, whose general cultivation keeps pace with his -political and financial talents, how singular the contrast was between -the levelling spirit of this government, and the separating and dividing -spirit of American society, he replied, that, if his many vocations -allowed him time, he should like to write a novel, illustrating the -curious struggle which exists throughout this country between its -political and its social institutions. The anomaly is, indeed, striking. -Democracy governs the land; whilst, throughout society, a contrary -tendency shows itself, wherever it can obtain the very smallest -opportunity. It is unfortunate for America that its aristocracy must, of -necessity, be always one of wealth. - -[54] Of course the captain is undisputed master of the boat, and any -disorders, quarrels, etc., which may arise, are settled by his -authority. Any passenger, guilty of misbehaviour, is either confined or -sent immediately on shore, no matter how far from his intended -destination. I once saw very summary justice performed on a troublesome -fellow who was disturbing the whole society on board one of the North -River steamers. He was put into the small boat with the captain and a -stout-looking sailor, and very comfortably deposited on some rafts which -were floating along shore, about twenty miles below West Point, whither -he was bound. - -[55] The quantity of one's companions in these conveyances is not more -objectionable than their quality sometimes. As they are the only -vehicles, and the fares charged are extremely low, it follows, -necessarily, that all classes and sorts of people congregate in them, -from the ragged Irish emigrant and the boorish back-countryman, to the -gentleman of the senate, the supreme court, and the president himself. - -[56] The manners of the young girls of America appear singularly free to -foreigners; and until they become better acquainted with the causes -which produce so unrestrained a deportment, they are liable to take -disadvantageous and mistaken impressions with regard to them. The term -which I should say applied best to the tone and carriage of American -girls from ten to eighteen, is hoydenish; laughing, giggling, romping, -flirting, screaming at the top of their voices, running in and out of -shops, and spending a very considerable portion of their time in -lounging about in the streets. In Philadelphia and Boston, almost all -the young ladies attend classes or day schools; and in the latter place -I never went out, morning, noon, or evening, that I did not meet, in -some of the streets round the Tremont House, a whole bevy of young -school girls, who were my very particular friends, but who, under -pretext of going to, or returning from, school, appeared to me to be -always laughing, and talking, and running about in the public -thoroughfares; a system of education which we should think by no means -desirable. The entire liberty which the majority of young ladies are -allowed to assume, at an age when in England they would be under strict -nursery discipline, appears very extraordinary; they not only walk alone -in the streets, but go out into society, where they take a determined -and leading part, without either mother, aunt, or chaperon of any sort; -custom, which renders such an appendage necessary with us, entirely -dispenses with it here; and though the reason of this is obvious enough -in the narrow circles of these small towns, where every body knows every -body, the manners of the young ladies do not derive any additional charm -from the perfect self-possession which they thus acquire. Shyness -appears to me to be a quality utterly unknown to either man, woman, or -child in America. The girls, from the reasons above stated, and the -boys, from being absolutely thrown into the world, and made men of -business before they are sixteen, are alike deficient in any thing like -diffidence; and I really have been all but disconcerted at the perfect -assurance with which I have been addressed, upon any and every subject, -by little men and women just half way through their teens. That very -common character amongst us, a shy man, is not to be met with in these -latitudes. An American conversing on board one of their steam-boats is -immediately surrounded, particularly if his conversation, though -strictly directed to one individual, is of a political nature; in an -instant a ring of spectators is formed round him, and whereas an -Englishman would become silent at the very first appearance of a -listener, an American, far from seeming abashed at this "audience," -continues his discourse, which thus assumes the nature of an harangue, -with perfect equanimity, and feels no annoyance whatever at having -unfolded his private opinions of men and matters to a circle of forty or -fifty people whom they could in no possible way concern. Speechifying is -a very favourite species of exhibition with the men here, by the by; -and, besides being self possessed, they are all remarkably fluent. -Really eloquent men are just as rare in this country as in any other, -but the "gift of the gab" appears to me more widely disseminated amongst -Americans than any other people in the world. Many things go to make -good speakers of them: great acuteness, and sound common sense, -sufficient general knowledge, and great knowledge of the world, an -intense interest in every political measure, no matter how trivial in -itself, no sense of bashfulness, and a great readiness of expression. -But to return to the manners of the young American girls:--It is -Rousseau, I think, who says, "Dans un pays où les moeurs sont pures, les -filles seront faciles, et les femmes sévères." This applies particularly -well to the carriage of the American women. When remarking to a -gentleman once the difference between the manners of my own young -countrywomen and his, I expressed my disapprobation of the education -which led to such a result, he replied, "You forget the comparatively -pure state of morals in our country, which admits of this degree of -freedom in our young women, without its rendering them liable to insult -or misconstruction." This is true, and it is also most true, for I have -seen repeated instances of it, that those very girls, whose manners have -been most displeasing to my European ways of feeling, whom I should have -pointed out as romps and flirts pre-eminent, not only make excellent -wives, but from the very moment of their marriage seem to forsake -society, and devote themselves exclusively to household duties and -retirement. But that I have seen and known of repeated instances of -this, I could scarcely have believed it, but it is the case; and a young -American lady, speaking upon this subject, said to me, "We enjoy -ourselves before marriage; but in your country, girls marry to obtain a -greater degree of freedom, and indulge in the pleasures and dissipations -of society." She was not, I think, greatly mistaken. - -[57] For the origin of this curious name, see that interesting and -veracious work, the history of Knickerbocker. - -[58] Famous as the scene of Ichabod Crane's exploits. - -[59] If the results answer to the means employed, the pupils of West -Point ought to turn out accomplished scholars in every branch of human -learning, as well as ripe soldiers and skilful engineers. Their course -of education consists of almost every study within the range of man's -capacity; and as the school discipline is unusually strict, their hours -of labour many, and of recreation very few, they should he able to boast -of many "wise men" among their number. However it is here, I imagine, as -elsewhere; where studies are pursued laboriously for a length of time, -variety becomes a necessary relief to the mental powers, and so far the -multiplicity of objects of acquirement may be excused; but surely, to -combine in the education of one youth the elements of half a dozen -sciences, each one of which would wear out a man's life in the full -understanding of it, is not the best system of instruction. However, it -is the one now universally adopted, and tends to give more smatterers in -science than scientific men to the world. The military part of their -education is, however, what the pupils of West Point are most exercised -in, and, so far as one so ignorant of such matters as myself can judge, -I should imagine the system adopted calculated to make expert -artillerymen and engineers of them. Their deportment, and the way they -went through their evolutions on the parade, did not appear to me very -steady--there was a want of correctness of carriage, generally, and of -absolute precision of movement, which one accustomed to the manoeuvring -of regular troops detects immediately. There are several large pieces of -ordnance kept in the gun-room, some of which were taken from the -English; and I remarked a pretty little brass cannon, which almost -looked plaything, which bore the broad arrow and the name of Saratoga. - -[60] It might be a curious and interesting matter of research to -determine under what combination of external circumstances the spirit of -poetry flourishes most vigorously, and good poets have most abounded. -The extremes of poverty and luxury seem alike inimical to its -well-being; yet the latter far more so than the former, for most poets -have been poor; some so poor, as to enrich the world, while they -themselves received so little return from its favour as miserably to -perish of want. Again, the level tenor of a life alike removed from want -and superfluity should seem too devoid of interest or excitement to make -a good poet. Long-lived competency is more favourable to the even temper -of philosophy than the fiery nature of one who must know the storms of -passion, and all the fiercer elements of which the acting and suffering -soul of man is made. Again, it would be curious to know, if it might be -ascertained, whether those men whose inspirations have been aided alone -by the contemplation of the inanimate beauties of nature, and the -phenomena of their own minds and the minds and lives of their fellows, -have been as great poets as those who, besides these sources of -inspiration, fed the power within them with the knowledge of great -writers and poets of other countries and times. Another question, which -it would be interesting to determine, would be, under what species of -government poets have been most numerous, and most honoured. As our -modern exploders of old fallacies have not yet made up their minds -whether such a person as Homer ever lived, it is rather a vain labour of -imagination to determine whether this great king of all poets flourished -under a monarchy or in a republic; certain it is, he sang of kings and -princes in right lordly style: be that as it may, we have rather better -authority for believing that the Greek dramatists, those masters, and -sometime models, of their peculiar branch of the art, flourished under -republican governments; but with them, I think, ends the list of -republican poets of great and universal fame. Rome had no poets till she -had emperors. Italy was, it is true, divided into so called republics -dining the golden age of her literature; but they were so in name alone; -the spirit of equality had long departed from the soil, and they were -merely prouder and more arbitrary aristocracies than have ever existed -under any monarchy in the world. If ever France can be said to have had -a poetical age, it was during the magnificent reign of Louis the -Fourteenth, that pageant that prepared the bloodiest tragedy in the -pages of history. England offers the only exception that I have -advanced, namely, that the republican form of government is inimical to -poetry. For it was during the short and shameful period of fanatical -republicanism, which blots her annals, that the glory and the might of -Milton rose upon the world; he is the only great poet who ever -flourished under a republic; and he was rather the poet of heaven and -hell, than of earth: his subjects are either biblical or mythological; -and however his stern and just spirit might advocate the cause of -equality and universal freedom in the more arid regions of political and -theological controversies, in his noblest and greatest capacity he has -sung of angels and archangels, the starry hierarchy of heaven, where -some of the blessed wore a brighter glory than their fellows, where some -were inferior to other celestial powers, and where God was King supreme -over all. In heaven, Milton dreamt of no republics, nor in hell either. - -[61] It is quite curious to observe how utterly unknown a thing a -_really_ well-broken horse is in this country. I have just bought one -who was highly approved and recommended by several gentlemen considered -here as learned in all these matters; and of my own knowledge, I might -hunt the Union over and not find a better. As far as the make, and -beauty, and disposition of the animal goes, there is no fault to find; -but this _lady's horse_ never had a woman on its back, had never been -ridden but with a snaffle bit, and, until she came into my possession, -did not know how to canter with her right foot. When the Americans say a -horse is well broken, they mean it is not wild. - -[62] The various censures which English travellers have bestowed upon -various things in this country are constantly, both in private -conversation and the public prints, attributed to _English jealousy_. I -confess I have been amused at the charge, and can only sincerely hope I -may not draw down so awful an accusation on myself, when I declare, -that, during a three years' residence in America, almost every article, -of every description, which I have had made, has been ill made, and -obliged to undergo manifold alterations. I don't pretend to account for -the fact, for fear the obvious reasons might appear to find their source -in that very small jealousy of which England is guilty towards this -country, in the person of her journal-scribbling travellers; but to the -fact there is and can be no denial. - -[63] When you carry your complaint of careless work, or want of -punctuality, to the tradespeople whom you employ here, the unfortunate -principals really excite your sympathy by their helpless situation with -regard to the free republicans whom they employ, and who, with the utter -contempt of subordination which the cheapness of living, and the spirit -of license (not liberty) produce among the lower classes here, come when -they please, depart when they like, work when they choose, and, if you -remonstrate, take themselves off to new masters, secure of employment in -your neighbour's house, if your mode of employing them displeases them. -Manifold are the lamentations I have heard, of "Oh, ma'am, this is not -like the old country; we can't get journeymen to work here, ma'am; we're -obliged to do just as our workmen please, ma'am." One poor French -dress-maker appeared to me on the verge of distraction, from the utter -impossibility of keeping in any order a tribe of sewing girls, whom she -seemed to pay on purpose that they might drive her crazy; and my -shoemaker assured me the other day, with a most woful face, that it was -election week, and that if I was as suffering for shoes as a lady could -be, I could not have mine till the political cobblers in his employ had -settled the "business of the nation" to their satisfaction. Patience is -the only remedy. Whoever lives here, that has ever lived elsewhere, -should come provided with it. - -[64] This description may amaze sundry narrow-minded and prejudiced -dwellers in those unhappy countries where standing armies are among the -standing abuses, and the miserable stipendiaries of hoary tyrannies go -about wearing the livery of their trade with a slavish unanimity -becoming alone to hirelings and salaried butchers base. But whoever -should imagine that the members of an enlightened and free republic -must, because they condescend to become soldiers, for the pure love of -their country, behave as soldiers also, would draw foolish conclusions. -Discipline, order, a peculiar carriage, a particular dress, obedience to -superiors, and observance of rules, these, indeed, may all be the -attributes of such miserable creatures as are content to receive wages -for their blood. But for free Americans! why should they not walk -crooked, in the defence of their country, if they don't like to walk -straight? why should they not carry their guns on their shoulders -instead of upright, if they please? and why, since they chose to defend -their lives and liberties by becoming volunteers, should they not stick -any feathers, of any colours that they like in their caps--black, white, -or green? Is the noble occupation of war incompatible with the still -nobler possession of freedom? Heaven forbid! and long live the American -militia, to prove their entire compatibility. - -[65] The militia has fallen into disrepute of late in New York and -Philadelphia. Trainings and parades take too much of the precious time, -whose minutes are cents, and hours dollars. The only instance of humour, -national or individual, which I have witnessed since my abode in this -country, was a sham parade got up in mimicry of the real one here -described. In this grotesque procession, every man was dressed in the -most absurd costume he could devise: banners with the most ludicrous -inscriptions, wooden swords of gigantic dimensions, and children's -twopenny guns, were some of their paraphernalia; and, in the absurd and -monstrous objects the men had made of themselves, with false whiskers, -beards, and noses, I recognised some of the broad, coarse, powerful -humour of the lower orders in the old country. But it is the _only_ -symptom of such a spirit which I have met with. The absolute absence of -imagination, of course, is also the absolute absence of humour. An -American can no more understand a fanciful jest than a poetical idea; -and in society and conversation the strictest matter of fact prevails: -for any thing departing from it, though but an inch, either towards the -sublime or the ridiculous, becomes immediately incomprehensible to your -auditors, who will stare at your enthusiasm, and sincerely ask you the -meaning of your jest. - -[66] A place devoted to political meetings, chiefly, however, I believe, -those termed here "democratic." - -[67] It is the property of perfection alone to rivet the admiration of -absolute ignorance; whence I conclude that the river craft, hovering -from morning till night along the waters that surround New York, must be -the most beautiful in the world. Their lightness, grace, swiftness, and -strength, appear to me unequalled. Such beautiful vessels I never saw; -more beautiful ones I cannot imagine. - -[68] In Canova's group of Cupid and Psyche, the young god is smiling -like a god; but the eager parted lips with which Psyche is seeking his, -wear no such expression--you might fancy they trembled, but they -certainly do not smile. - -[69] The ladies of New York, and all lady-like people there, have agreed -to call this eddy _Hurl_-gate. The superior propriety of this name is -not to be questioned; for hell is a shocking bad word, no doubt: but, -being infinitely more appropriate to the place and its qualities, I have -ventured to mention it. - -[70] The ladies here have an extreme aversion to being called _women_, I -don't exactly understand why. Their idea is, that that term designates -only the lower or less-refined classes of female human-kind. This is a -mistake which I wonder they should fall into; for in all countries in -the world, queens, duchesses, and countesses, are called women; but in -this one alone, washerwomen, sempstresses, and housemaids are entitled -_ladies_; so that, in fact, here woman is by far the more desirable -appellation of the two. - -[71] The established succession of figures which form the _one_ French -quadrille, in executing which the ball-rooms of Paris and London have -spent so many satisfactory hours ever since it was invented, by no means -satisfies the Americans. At the close of almost every quadrille, a -_fancy_ figure is danced, which, depending entirely upon the directions -of the leader of the band, is a very curious medley of all the rest. The -company not being gifted with second sight, and of course not knowing at -every step what next they may be called upon to do, go fearfully sliding -along, looking at each other, asking, "how does it go on?" some _en -avant deux-ing_, while others are starting off _en promenade_, the whole -being a complete confusion of purpose and execution. The common French -figure, the Trénis, is very seldom danced at all,--they do not appear to -know it. - -[72] This terrible nuisance has often made me wish for that "still small -voice," which has become the universal tone of good society in England, -and which, however inconvenient sometimes from its utter inaudibility, -at least did not send one to bed with one's ears ringing and one's head -splitting. I was in a society of about twelve ladies, the other evening, -and the _uproar_ was so excessive that I felt my eyebrows contracting -from a sense of perfect bewilderment, occasioned by the noise all round -me, and more than once was obliged to request the person with whom I was -conversing to stop till the _noise_ had subsided a little, that I might -be able to distinguish what he was saying to me. Were the women here -large and masculine in their appearance, this defect would appear less -strange, though not less disagreeable; but they are singularly delicate -and feminine in their style of beauty; and the noise they make strikes -one with surprise as something monstrous and unnatural--like mice -roaring. They frequently talk four or five at a time, and directly -across each other; neither of which proceedings is exactly according to -my ideas of good breeding. - -[73] Unromantic as these birds are in their external appearance, there -is something poetical in their love of sunny skies. Many attempts have -been made to rear them in England; but I am told that they will not sing -there, or indeed any where but where the sun shines as it does here. - -[74] In speaking of the bad and disagreeable results of the political -institutions of this country, as exhibited in the feelings and manners -of the lower orders, I have every where dwelt upon those which, from my -own disposition, and the opinions and sentiments in which I have been -educated, have struck me most, and most unfavourably. But I should be -sorry to be so blind, or so prejudiced, as not to perceive the great -moral goods which arise from the very same source, and display -themselves strongly in the same class of people: _honesty_ and _truth_, -excellences so great, that the most bigoted worshipper of the forms and -divisions of societies in the old world would surely be ashamed to weigh -them in the balance against the deference there paid to rank or riches, -or even the real and very agreeable qualities of civility and courtesy. -Americans (I speak now of the _people_, not the gentlemen and ladies, -_they_ are neither so honest and true, nor quite so rude,) are indeed -independent. Every man that will work a little can live extremely well. -No portion of the country is yet overstocked with followers of trades, -not even the Atlantic cities. Living is cheap--labour is dear. To -conclude, as the Irish woman said, "It is a darling country for poor -folks; for if I work three days in the week, can't I lie in my bed the -other three if I plase?" This being so, all dealings between -handicraftsmen and those who employ them; tradesmen and those who buy of -them; servants and those who are served by them; are conducted upon the -most entire system of reciprocity of advantage; indeed, if any thing, -the obligation appears always to lie on that party which, with us, is -generally supposed to confer it. Thus,--my shoemaker, a person with whom -I have now dealt largely for two years, said to me the other day, upon -my remonstrating about being obliged regularly to come to his shop and -unboot, whenever I order a new pair of walking-boots--"Well, ma'am, we -can keep your measure certainly, _to oblige you_, but, as a rule, we -don't do it for any of our customers, it's so very troublesome." These -people are, then, as I said before, most truly independent; they are -therefore never servile, and but seldom civil, but for the very same -reason they do not rob you; they do not need to do so; neither do they -lie to you, for your favour or displeasure in no way affects their -interest. If you entrust to their care materials of any sort to make up, -you are sure, no matter how long you may leave them in their hands, or -how entirely you may have forgotten the quantity originally given, to -have every inch of them returned to you: and you are also generally sure -that any question you ask, with regard to the quality of what you -purchase, will be answered without any endeavour to impose upon you, or -palm upon your ignorance that which is worse for that which is better. -Two circumstances, which have come under my own knowledge, will serve to -illustrate the spirit of the people; and they are good illustrations to -quote, for similar circumstances are of daily and hourly occurrence. - -A farmer who is in the habit of calling at our house on his way to -market, with eggs, poultry, etc., being questioned as to whether the -eggs were new-laid, replied, without an instant's hesitation, "No, not -the _very_ fresh ones, _we eat all those ourselves_." - -On returning home late from the play one night, I could not find my -slippers any where, and, after some useless searching, performed my -toilet for bed without them. The next morning, on enquiring of my maid -if she knew any thing of them, she replied with perfect equanimity, that -having walked home through the snow, and got her feet extremely wet, she -had put them on, and forgotten to restore them to their place before my -return. Nobody, I think, will doubt that an English farmer, and an -English servant, might sell stale eggs, and use their mistress's -slippers; but I think it highly doubtful, that either fact would have -been acknowledged with such perfect honesty any where but here. As to -the servants here, except the blacks, and the poor Irish bread-hunters -who come over, there are scarcely any to be found: the very name seems -repugnant to an American; and however high their wages, and easy their -situation, they seem hardly to be able to endure the bitterness of -subserviency and subordination. - -[75] The bridges here are all made of wood, and for the most part -covered. Those which are so are by no means unpicturesque objects. The -one-arched bridge at Fair Mount is particularly light and graceful in -its appearance: at a little distance, it looks like a scarf, rounded by -the wind, flung over the river. - -[76] The time of locking of doors at gentlemen's dinner parties, and -drinking till the company dropped one by one under the table, has, with -the equally disgusting habit of spitting about the floors, long vanished -in England before a more rational hospitality, and a better -understanding of the very first rule of good breeding, not to do that -which is to offend others. Spirituous liquors are the fashion alone -among the numerous frequenters of the gin-palaces of Holborn, and St. -Giles's; even the old-fashioned favourites of our country gentlemen, -port, madeira, and sherry, are found too heavy and strongly-flavoured -for the palate of our modern exquisites,--and the fragrant and delicate -wines of Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Rhine, and its tributary streams, are -the wines now preferred before all others, by persons of refined taste -and moderate indulgence. This in itself is a great improvement. The -gross desire of excitement by a quantity of powerful stimulants has -given place to a temperate enjoyment of things, in themselves certainly -the most excellent in the world. Wine-drinking in England is become -altogether a species of _dilettante_ taste, instead of the disgusting -excess it used to be; it is indulged in with extreme moderation,--and so -much have all coarse and thick-blooded drinks gone out of fashion, that -even liqueurs are very seldom taken after coffee but by foreigners. Our -gentlemen have learnt to consider hard and gross drinking ungentlemanly. -I wish I could say the same of American gentlemen. The quantity and the -quality of their potations are as destructive of every thing like -refinement of palate, as detrimental to their health. Americans are, -generally speaking, the very worst judges of wine in the world, always -excepting madeira, which they have in great perfection, and is the only -wine of which they are tolerable judges. One reason of their ignorance -upon this subject is the extremely indifferent quality of the foreign -wines imported here, and a still more powerful reason, is the total loss -of all niceness of taste consequent upon their continual swallowing of -mint julaps, gin slings, brandy cocktails, and a thousand strong messes -which they take _even before breakfast_, and indifferently at all hours -of the day,--a practice as gross in taste as injurious to health. -Burgundy I have never seen at an American table: I believe it will not -stand the sea voyage. Claret they have now in very great perfection, -thanks to Mr. ----, who has introduced it among them, and deserves to be -considered a public benefactor therefor. Hock is, generally speaking, -utterly undrinkable, and champagne (the only foreign wine of which they -seem generally fond), though some of a good quality is occasionally -presented to you, is for the most part a very nauseous compound, in -which sugar is the only perceptible flavour. Although the American -gentlemen do not indeed lock the doors upon their guests, they have two -habits equally fatal to their sobriety, of which I have heard several -Englishmen complain bitterly. The one is mixing their wines in a most -unorthodox manner, equally distressing to the palate and the stomach; -_i. e._ giving you to drink by turns, after dinner, claret, madeira, -sherry, hock, champagne, all and each of which you are pressed to take -as specimens of excellence in their various ways, forming altogether a -vinous hotch-potch, which confounds alike the taste and the brain. The -second ordeal, to which the sobriety of Englishmen dining out here is -exposed, is at the close of all these various libations,--which of -course last some time,--an instantaneous removal from the dinner to the -supper table, where strong _whisky punch_ effectually _finishes_ the -wits of their guests, and sends them home to repent for two days the -excess of a few hours. Perhaps, when the real meaning of the word -_society_ becomes better understood in this country, absurd display and -disgusting intemperance will no more be resorted to as its necessary -accompaniments; but of course the _real_ material of which society -should be formed must increase a little first. I have been told that the -women in this country drink. I never saw but one circumstance which -would lead me to believe the assertion. At the baths in New York, one -day, I saw the girl who was waiting upon the rooms carry mint julaps (a -preparation of mint, sugar, and brandy,) into three of them. I was much -surprised, and asked her if this was a piece of service she often -performed for the ladies who visited the baths? She said, "Yes, pretty -often." Bar-rooms are annexed to every species of public building,--in -the theatres, in the hotels, in the bath-houses, on board the -steam-boats,--and there are even temporary buildings which serve this -purpose erected at certain distances along the rail-roads. Though the -gentlemen drink more than any other _gentlemen_, the lower orders here -are more temperate than with us. The appearance of a drunken man in the -streets is comparatively rare here; and certainly Sunday is not, as with -us, the appointed day for this disgusting vice among the lower classes -here. Fortunately, most fortunately, it is not with them as with us, the -only day on which the poor have rest, or drunkenness the only substitute -they can find for every other necessary or comfort of life. Our poor are -indeed intemperate. Alas! that vice of theirs will surely be visited on -others; for it is the offspring of their misery. The effects of habitual -intemperance in this country are lamentably visible in many young men of -respectable stations and easy circumstances; and it is by no means -uncommon to hear of young gentlemen--persons who rank as such -here--destroying their health, their faculties, and eventually their -lives, at a most untimely age, by this debasing habit. - -[77] There is a species of home religion, so to speak, which is kept -alive by the gathering together of families at stated periods of joy and -festivity, which has a far deeper moral than most people imagine. The -merry-making at Christmas, the watching out the old year, and in the -new, the royalty of Twelfth-night, the keeping of birth-days, and -anniversaries of weddings, are things which, to the worldly-wise in -these wise times, may savour of childishness or superstition; but they -tend to promote and keep alive some of the sweetest charities and -kindliest sympathies of our poor nature. While we are yet children, -these days are set in golden letters in the calendar,--long looked -forward to,--enjoyed with unmixed delight,--the peculiar seasons of new -frocks, new books, new toys, drinking of healths, bestowing of blessings -and wishes by kindred and parents, and being brought into the notice of -our elders, and, as children used to think in the dark ages, therefore -their betters. To the older portion of the community, such times were -times of many mingled emotions, all, all of a softening if not of so -exhilarating a nature. The cares, the toils, of the world had become -their portion,--some little of its coldness, its selfishness, and sad -guardedness had crept upon them,--distance and various interests, and -the weary works of life had engrossed their thoughts, and turned their -hearts and their feet from the dear household paths, and the early -fellowship of home; but at these seasons the world was in its turn -pushed aside for a moment,--the old thresholds were crossed by those who -had ceased to dwell in the house of their birth,--kindred and friends -met again, as in the early days of childhood and youth, under the same -roof-tree,--the nursery revel, and the school-day jubilee, was recalled -to their thoughts by the joyful voices and faces of a new -generation,--the blessed and holy influences of home flowed back into -their souls, at such a time, by a thousand channels,--the heart was -warmed with the kind old love and fellowship,--face brightened to -kindred face, and hand grasped the hand where the same blood was -flowing, and all the evil deeds of time seemed for a while retrieved. -These were holy and happy seasons. Oh, England! dear, dear England! this -sweet sacred worship, next to that of God the highest and purest, was -long cherished in your soil, where the word home was surely more -hallowed than any other save heaven. Far, far off be the day when a cold -and narrow spirit shall quench in you these dear and good human -yearnings, and make the consecrated earth around our door-stones as -barren as the wide wilderness of life in strange lands. In this country -I have been mournfully struck with the absence of every thing like this -home-clinging. Here are comparatively no observances of tides and times. -Christmas-day is no religious day, and hardly a holiday with them. -New-year's day is perhaps a little, but only a little, more so. For -Twelfth-day, it is unknown; and the household private festivals of -birth-days are almost universally passed by unsevered from the rest of -the toilsome days devoted to the curse of labour. Indeed, the young -American leaves so soon the shelter of his home, the world so early -becomes to him a home, that the happy and powerful influences and -associations of that word to him are hardly known. Sent forth to earn -his existence at the very opening time of mind and heart, like a young -green-house plant just budding that should be thrust out into the colder -air, the blight of worldliness, of coldness, and of care, drive in the -coming blossoms; and if the tree lives, half its loveliness and half its -_usefulness_ are shorn from it. These are some of the consequences of -the universal doom of Americans, to labour for their bread: there are -others and better ones. - -[78] This happened on board a _western_ steam-boat, I beg to observe, if -it happened at all. - -[79] The evanescent nature of his triumph, however an actor may deplore -it, is in fact but an instance of the broad moral justice by which all -things are so evenly balanced. If he can hope for no fame beyond mere -mention, when once his own generation passes away, at least his power, -and his glory, and his reign is in his own person, and during his own -life. There is scarcely to be conceived a popularity for the moment more -intoxicating than that of a great actor in his day, so much of it -becomes mixed up with the individual himself. The poet, the painter, and -the sculptor, enchant us through their works; and, with very very few -exceptions, their works, and not their very persons, are the objects of -admiration and applause: it is to their minds we are beholden; and -though a certain degree of curiosity and popularity necessarily wait -even upon their bodily presence, it is faint compared with that which is -bestowed upon the actor; and for good reasons--he is himself his work. -His voice, his eyes, his gesture, are his art, and admiration of it -cannot be separated from admiration for him. This renders the ephemeral -glory which he earns so vivid, and in some measure may be supposed to -compensate for its short duration. The great of the earth, whose fame -has arisen like the shining of the sun, have often toiled through their -whole lives in comparative obscurity, through the narrow and dark paths -of existence. Their reward was never given to their hands here,--it is -but just glory should be lasting. - -[80] Another house has been opened at Baltimore within the last year, -which, though unfinished at the time of our lodging there, promised to -be extremely comfortable. The building adjoined, and indeed formed, part -of the Exchange; the vestibule of which is the only very beautiful piece -of architecture I have seen here. It is very beautiful. - -[81] This very romantic piece of gallantry (serenading) is very common -in this country. How it comes to be so I can't quite make out; for it is -not at all of a piece with the national manners or tone of feeling. It's -very agreeable, though, and is an anomaly worth cultivating. - -[82] I have heard it several times asserted, that Catholicism was -gaining ground extremely in this country. Surely the Preacher sayeth -well, "The thing which has been, it is that which shall be, and there is -nothing new beneath the sun." Is it not a marvellous thing to think of, -that that mighty tree which has overshadowed the whole of the Christian -world, under whose branches all the European empires were cradled, and -which we have with our own eyes beheld droop, and fade, and totter, as -it does at this moment in the old soils,--is it not strange to think of -the seed being carried, and the roots taking hold in this new earth, -perhaps to send up another such giant shadow over this hemisphere? Its -growth here appears to me almost impossible; for if ever there were two -things more opposite in their nature than all other things, they are the -spirit of the Roman Catholic religion and the spirit of the American -people. It's true, that of the thousands who take refuge from poverty -upon this plenteous land, the greater number bring with them that creed, -but the very air they inhale here presently gives them a political -faith, so utterly incompatible with the spirit of subjection, that I -shall think the Catholic priesthood here workers of miracles, to retain -any thing like the influence over their minds which they possessed in -those countries, where all creeds, political and polemical, have but one -watch-word--faith and submission. - -[83] In most European countries, the seat of government and residence of -the ruling powers and foreign ambassadors is the capital, and generally -the largest, most populous, most wealthy, and most influential city of -the kingdom--the place of all others to which travellers would resort to -become acquainted with its political, literary, and social spirit. In -this, however, as in most other respects, this country differs from all -others; and the spirit of independence, which renders every state a -republic within itself, gives to each its own capital, the superior -merits of which are advocated with no little pride and jealousy by the -natives of the state to which it belongs. Thus, New York, Boston, -Philadelphia, Baltimore, Charleston, and New Orleans, are all capitals; -each of them fulfilling in a much higher degree than Washington the -foreigner's idea of that word. Indeed I cannot conceive any thing that -would more amaze an European than to be transported into Washington, and -told he was in the metropolis of the United States; nor, indeed, could -any thing give him a less just idea of the curious political -construction, and widely-scattered resources, of the country. -Washington, in fact, is to America what Downing and Parliament Streets -are to London--a congregation of government offices; where political -characters, secretaries, clerks, place-holders, and place-seekers, most -do congregate. - -[84] As the winter resort of all the leading political men of the Union, -Washington presents many attractions in point of society. Their wives -and daughters, frequently the reigning beauties of their respective -states and towns, generally accompany them thither during the session; -and this congregating of people from all parts of the country, together -with the foreign ministers residing there, and the travellers drawn -thither from mere curiosity, combine to give more variety to the -gaieties of Washington than those of any of the other cities in the -Union can boast. The Capitol is a favourite lounge in the morning; and -the American lady-politicians are just as zealous in their respective -parties as our own. I don't know, however, that they would much relish -listening to a long debate from that dismal hole, the lantern of the -House of Commons, where one may listen, indeed and even just manage to -see, but where to _be seen_ is an utter impossibility; neither do I -think that many of them would stand for four long hours, as Miss ---- -and poor Lady ---- did, during Brougham's famous reform bill speech. - -[85] The love of the sublime and beautiful, those aspirations after -something more refined, more exalted and perfect, than this world -affords, in short, that spiritual propensity classed in its many and -various manifestations by the phrenologists under the title of -_ideality_, will have some vent, and, under circumstances most adverse -to its existence, will creep out at some channel or another, and -vindicate human nature by flourishing in some shape over the narrowest, -homeliest, lowliest, and least favourable guise it may put on. Certainly -America is nothe country of large idealities,--it is the very reverse; -if I may create a bump, it is the country of large realities, _i. e._ -large acquisitiveness, large causality, large caution, and small -veneration and wonder. Nathless some ideality must needs be, and is, and -it creeps out in Christian names. I have heard sempstresses called -Amanda and Emmeline, and we had a housemaid in New England called -Cynthia. Our village carpenter is named Rudolph; and if the spirit of -the people appears to me unimaginative and unpoetical, I take great -comfort in their fine names. - -[86] I am neither sufficiently interested nor sufficiently well informed -in the politics of this country to have conceived any opinion of General -Jackson, beyond that which the floating discussions of the day might -suggest. Of his merits as a statesman I am totally incapable of judging, -or of the effect which his peculiar policy is calculated to have upon -the country. When first I came here I heard and saw that he was the man -of the people. In the dispute with South Carolina, his firmness and -decision of character struck me a good deal; and when, in consequence of -the temporary distress occasioned by his alteration of the currency, a -universal howl was for a short time raised against him, which he -withstood without a moment's flinching, I honoured him greatly. Of his -measures I know nothing; but firmness, determination, decision, I -respect above all things: and if the old General is, as they say, very -obstinate, why obstinacy is so far more estimable than weakness, -_especially_ in a ruler, that I think he sins on the right side of the -question. - -[87] The national vanity of the French, and pride and prejudice of the -English are proverbial: it is, however, fortunate for both that they -carry these qualities to such an excess, that it is a matter of extreme -difficulty to shake the good opinion which they entertain of themselves. -Thus, foreigners may visit England, as Frenchmen have done, and swear -that the sun never shines there, and that the only ripe fruit the -country affords is roasted apples. John Bull, nothing wroth, wraps -himself still closer in his own dear self-approval, and, in the -plenitude of self-content, drinks his brown stout, and basks by -gas-light. On his part, he goes over to Paris, votes the whole _beau -pays de France_ horrible, because he can't get port wine to drink, or -boiled potatoes to eat; in spite of which, Monsieur does not attempt to -turn him out of his country, but eats his ragouts, and drinks his -chablis, and shrugs his shoulders at the savage islander, from the -seventh heaven of self-satisfaction. It were much to be desired that -Americans had a little _more_ national vanity, or national pride. Such -an unhappily sensitive community surely never existed in this world; and -the vengeance with which they visit people for saying they don't admire -or like them, would be really terrible if the said people were but as -mortally afraid of abuse as they seem to be. I would not advise either -Mrs. Trollope, Basil Hall, or Captain Hamilton, ever to set their feet -upon this ground again, unless they are ambitious of being stoned to -death. I live myself in daily expectation of martyrdom; and as for any -body attempting to earn a livelihood here who has but as much as said he -prefers the country where he was born to this, he would stand a much -better chance of thriving if he were to begin business after confinement -in the penitentiary. This unhappy species of irritability is carried to -such a degree here, that if you express an unfavourable opinion of any -thing, the people are absolutely astonished at your temerity. I -remember, to my no little amusement, a lady saying to me once, "I hear -you are going to abuse us dreadfully; of course, you'll wait till you go -back to England, and then shower it down upon us finely." I assured her -I was not in the least afraid of staying where I was, and saying what I -thought at the same time. - -[88] I have been assured, I know not how truly, that the whole of this -affair originated with an _Englishman_. This piece of information was -given me by a person who said he knew such to be the fact, and also knew -the man. - -[89] It may not be amiss here to say one word with regard to the -_gratitude_ which audiences in some parts of the world claim from -actors, and about which I have lately heard a most alarming outcry. Do -actors generally exercise their profession to please themselves and -gratify their own especial delight in self-exhibition? Is that -profession in its highest walks one of small physical exertion and -fatigue (I say nothing of mental exertion), and in its lower paths is it -one of much gain, glory, or ease? Do audiences, on the other hand, use -to come in crowds to play-houses to see indifferent performers? and when -there, do they, out of pure charity and good-will, bestow their applause -as well as their money upon tiresome performances? I will answer these -points as far as regards myself, and therein express the gratitude which -I feel towards the frequenters of theatres. I individually disliked my -profession, and had neither pride nor pleasure in the exercise of it. I -exercised it as a matter of necessity, to earn my bread,--and verily it -was in the sweat of my brow. The parts which fell to my lot were of a -most laborious nature, and occasioned sometimes violent mental -excitement, always immense physical exertion, and sometimes both. In -those humbler walks of my profession, from whose wearisomeness I was -exempted by my sudden favour with the public, I have seen, though not -known, the most painful drudgery,--the most constant fatigue,--the most -sad contrast between real cares and feigned merriments,--the most -anxious, penurious, and laborious existence imaginable. For the part of -my questions which regarded the audiences, I have only to say, that I -never knew, saw, heard, or read of any set of people who went to a -play-house to see what they did not like; this being the case, it never -occurred to me that our houses were full but as a necessary consequence -of our own attraction, or that we were applauded but as the result of -our own exertions. I was glad the houses were full, because I was -earning my livelihood, and wanted the money; and I was glad the people -applauded us, because it is pleasant to please, and human vanity will -find some sweetness in praise, even when reason weighs its worth most -justly. Thus I cannot say that in general I had any great _gratitude_ -towards my audiences. Once or twice, however, that feeling was excited -between me and my witnesses, and the circumstance of which I have spoken -in my journal was one of the instances. But this was a different matter -altogether. I was no longer before an audience labouring for their -approbation as an actress. I was dragged before so many judges in my own -person, to answer for words spoken in private conversation. The same -clapping of hands, with which they rewarded my exertions in my -profession, was the only method by which they could intimate the "not -guilty," which was their judgment upon the appeal that had been made to -them against me; but with this difference, that I never felt _obliged_ -to them, or _grateful_ for their applause before, and did feel obliged -and grateful for their verdict then. Now, as regards the benefit-nights -of actors, I do not observe that even on these occasions much -_gratitude_ is owing to the people who attend them; for I know, and so -does every member of the profession, that the oldest and best actor on -any stage,--the one who for a series of years has appeared before -audiences to whom his private respectability and worth were well -known,--the longest-established _favourite_ of the public (as they are -termed), will assuredly have empty houses on his benefit-nights, if, -trusting to the feeling of that public, to whom he owes so much -gratitude, he failed to secure the assistance of whatever star -(tragedian, pantomimist, or dancing dog, it matters not which), happens -to be the newest object of attraction. I speak all this more -particularly as regards this country, for it is here that I have heard -most of this species of cant. Gratitude is a good word and an excellent -thing, and neither in speaking or acting should it be misapplied. In the -aristocratical lands over the water, this nonsense about patronage might -surprise one less; but in America it seems strange there should be any -mistake about a simple matter of traffic--'tis nothing in life else. We -give our health, our strength, our leisure, and our pleasure, for your -money and your applause, neither of which do we beg or borrow from you. -This being the case, where lies the obligation, and where the gratitude? -As to the pretty speeches which actors make when called from behind the -curtain, they always appeared to me very much of the same order as -advertisements in newspapers--A. D. returns his grateful acknowledgments -to the public for their liberal support, etc., etc. That calling -performers on after a play is a foreign, not an English, custom, and, to -my mind, one more honoured in the breach than in the observance. -Extraordinary occasions might warrant extraordinary demonstrations; but -it is a pity to make that a common ceremony, which, rarely granted, -would be a gratifying testimony of feeling, and excite rational -_gratitude_ in those on whom it was conferred. - -[90] I would recommend Retsch's etchings of Macbeth to the study of all -representatives of the witches: there is great sublimity and fearfulness -in their figures and attitudes. By the by, in looking over those unique -etchings (I mean _all_ those he has executed), the colossal genius of -Shakspeare is brought more fully in its vastness to our conviction; for -the genius of the artist,--which has fallen no whit behind the first -work of one of the first men of this age,--sinks in utter impotence -under the task of illustrating Shakspeare. The wonder, and the beauty, -and the pity of Faust, are as strong and true in the outlines of Retsch, -as in the words of Goethe--the drawings equal the poem; 'tis the highest -praise they can receive: and it is only when we turn from these perfect -works, to contemplate his outlines of Shakspeare, that we feel, by the -force of comparison, how unutterably beyond all other conceptions are -those of Shakspeare. Retsch's etchings, both of Hamlet and Macbeth, are, -compared with his German illustrations, failures. Hamlet is the better -of the two; but he seems to have quailed under the other in utter -inability--Macbeth himself falls far short of all that he should be made -to express; and as to Lady Macbeth, Retsch seems to have thought he had -better not meddle with her. - -[91] I wonder how long it will be before men begin to consider the -rational education of the mothers of their children a matter of some -little moment. How much longer are we to lead existences burdensome to -ourselves and useless to others, under the influence of every species of -ill training that can be imagined? How much longer are the physical -evils under which our nature labours to be increased by effeminate, -slothful, careless, unwholesome habits? How much longer are our minds, -naturally weakened by the action of a highly sensitive nervous -construction, to be abandoned, or rather devoted, to studies the least -likely to strengthen and ennoble them, and render them independent, in -some measure, of the infirmities of our bodies? How much longer are our -imaginations and feelings to be the only portions of our spiritual -nature on which culture is bestowed? Surely it were generous in those -who are our earthly disposers to do something to raise us from the state -of half-improvement in which we are suffered to linger. If our -capacities are inferior to those of men,--which I believe, as much as I -believe our bodies to be inferior to theirs in strength, swiftness, and -endurance,--let us not be overwhelmed with all the additional shackles -that foolish and vain bringing up can add; let us at least be made as -strong in body and as wise in mind as we can, instead of being devoted -to spiritual, mental, and physical weakness, far beyond that which we -inherit from nature. - -[92] Was it not Mme. de Sévigné who said, with such truth and bitter -satire, "Mme de ---- s'est jetée dans la dévotion, c'est-à-dire, elle a -changé d'amant"? - -[93] The cleanliness of the table furniture, and the neatness of the -attendants, is one of the most essential comforts of these boats. The -linen, and knives and forks, etc. at our meals, were remarkably clean -and bright. On more than one occasion, too, being rather late for the -public breakfast, we have been indulged with a small separate table in -the quiet recess at the end of the great eating and sleeping cabin,--a -favour only to be appreciated by people unaccustomed to any ordinaries, -much less steam-boat dinner-tables with sometimes near two hundred -guests. On board all the other boats, the only alternative is to have -what you eat brought to you into the ladies' cabin. To those who have -once breathed the atmosphere of a "ladies' cabin," it will be difficult -to imagine how such an alternative should not be productive of an -amazing saving of the boat's provisions. - -[94] My astonishment was unfeigned, when, upon an after inspection, I -found this very lofty gateway was constructed of _painted wood_. What! a -cheat, a sham thing at the threshold of the grave!--surely, thereabouts -pretences should have an end. Sham magnificence, too, is sad; an iron -railing, or a wooden paling, would, to my mind, have been a thousand -times better than this _mock granite_. Let us hope that this is merely a -temporary entrance,--there is _real_ granite enough to be had at Quincy; -and if the living can't afford it, why the dead will never miss it,--and -any thing would be better than an imitation gateway. - -[95] The spirit of man of its own dignity ennobles whatever it devotes -itself to. The most trivial actions may become almost heroical from the -motive which prompts them, and the most absurd ceremonies of -superstition, sincerely practised, may excite pity, but neither contempt -nor ridicule. If such a thing as an enthusiastic shoemaker were to be -met with, there is no doubt but his feeling of his craft would elevate -it into something approximating an art, and his work would bear witness -to his veneration for it. At the time when the stage was in its highest -perfection, its members had _all_ a great love and admiration for their -profession; many of them were men of education and mental -accomplishment, and brought to bear upon their labour all the -intellectual stores which they possessed. They respected their own work, -and it was respectable; they thought acting capable of elevation, of -refinement, of utility, and their faith in it invested it with dignity. -Of this class were all my father's family. _One_ reason why the stage -and every thing belonging to it has fallen to so low an ebb now, is -because actors have ceased to care for their profession -themselves,--they are no longer artists,--acting is no longer an art. - -[96] Besides the advantage of possessing the very prettiest collection -of actresses I ever saw, the theatre at Boston has decidedly the best -company I have played with _any where_ out of London. Some of the old -leaven alluded to in the last note exists amongst the ladies and -gentlemen of the Tremont theatre: they do not seem to despise their -work, and it is, generally speaking, well done therefore. Our pieces -were all remarkably well got up there; and the green-room is both -respectable and agreeable. - -[97] To the English traveller, around whose heart the love of -country and the influences of early association may yet cling, New -England appears to me, of all the portions of the United States -which I have visited, most likely to afford gratification; and the -_Yankees_,--properly so called,--the Americans with whom he will find, -and towards whom he will feel, most sympathy. They do us the honour to -call themselves _purely English_ in their origin; they alone, of the -whole population of the United States, undoubtedly were so; and in the -abundant witness which their whole character, country, and institutions -bear to that fact, I feel an additional reason to be proud of -England,--of Old England, for these are her children,--this race of men, -as a race incomparably superior to the other inhabitants of this -country. In conversing with New Englandmen, in spite of any passing -temporary bitterness, any political difference, or painful reference to -past times of enmity, I have always been struck with the admiring and, -in some measure, tender feeling with which England, as the -mother-country, was named. Nor is it possible to travel through the New -England states, and not perceive, indeed, a spirit (however modified by -different circumstances and institutions) yet most truly English in its -origin. The exterior of the houses,--their extreme neatness and -cleanliness,--the careful cultivation of the land,--the tasteful and -ornamental arrangement of the ground immediately surrounding the -dwellings, that most English of all manifestations,--above all, the -church spires pointing towards heaven, from the bosom of every -village,--recalled most forcibly to my mind my own England, and -presented images of order, of industry, of taste, and religious feeling, -nowhere so exhibited in any other part of the Union. I visited Boston -several times, and mixed in society there, the tone of which appeared to -me far higher than that of any I found elsewhere. A general degree of -cultivation exists among its members, which renders their intercourse -desirable and delightful. Nor is this superior degree of education -confined to Boston: the zeal and the judgment with which it is being -propagated throughout that part of the country is a noble national -characteristic. A small circumstance is a good illustration of the -advance which knowledge has made in these states. Travelling by land -from New Haven to Boston, at one of the very smallest places where we -stopped to change horses, I got out of the carriage to reconnoitre our -surroundings. The town (if town it could be called) did not appear to -contain much more than fifty houses: amongst the most prominent of -these, however, was a bookseller's shop. The first volumes I took up on -the counter were Spurzheim's volume on education, and Dr. Abercrombie's -works on the intellectual and moral faculties, I saw more pictures, more -sculptures, and more books in private houses in Boston than I have seen -any where else. I could name more men of marked talent that I met with -there than any where else. Its charitable and literary institutions are -upon a liberal scale, and enlightened principles. Among the New -Englanders I have seen more honour and reverence of parents, and more -witnesses of a high religions faith, than among any other Americans with -whom I have lived and conversed. - -[98] There are, I believe, no primroses, no wild thyme, and no heather, -that grow naturally in this country. I do not remember to have seen -either wild honeysuckle or clematis, both of which are so abundant with -us. The laurestinus, rosemary, southernwood, and monthly roses, all of -which are so common in England, growing out of doors all the year round, -are kept in hot-houses during the winter, even as far south as -Philadelphia. The common garden flowers--roses, pinks--are far less -abundant and less fragrant than with us. Sweet peas, and mignonette, are -comparatively scarce; serynga, and laburnum, I have never seen at all: -but so little care is bestowed upon ornamental gardening, that I do not -know whether this dearth of flowers is the fault of the climate, or the -consequence of the utter neglect in which flower-gardens are held here. - -[99] Lacking the nightingale and the lark, I think they want the two -perfect specimens of natural music. - -[100] Among the many signs of the total decay of dramatic mind and -spirit in this age, a frequent piece of criticism passed upon modern -plays appears to me a very conclusive one--"Such a play is exceedingly -full of dramatic effect, but there's no poetry in it." "Such a -playwright understands situation and character, but really, reading his -plays, you find no poetry in them." I have heard this bright comment -passed repeatedly upon the best dramatic composition of modern -times,--the Hunchback; a play whose immense popularity every where is -the surest and truest warrant of its excellence,--a play containing the -most dramatic situations, the most pathetic and comic effects, and by -far the finest conception of a female character of any play since the -old golden dramatic age. I do not hesitate to say that this is a most -false piece of criticism, induced alone by a want of perception of what -are the requisites in a dramatic poem, and a total absence of true -dramatic feeling. First, in the ingredients of a fine play, comes the -fiction,--the invention; to this belong those same much-sneered-at stage -effects, and theatrical situations; next comes the skilful and powerful -delineation of individual character; _lastly_ comes the item of a -poetical diction. _One_ alone has united these in their utmost -perfection; for such another the world may look in vain. But I think the -play-goers of Shakspeare's time would have been tolerably satisfied with -a most interesting fiction, and a true and vigorous delineation of -character; and let me ask, is there no poetry besides that of words?--is -there no poetry in the fable of a play--none in the faithful portraying -of a human being's mind and passions? As for all pretty speeches, -lengthy descriptions, abstract disquisitions,--unless things placed in -the mouth of characters to whose identity such mental manifestations -belong,--they are inadmissible in a right good play, and should by all -means be confined to the pages of those anomalous modern growths, plays -for the closet. In all our elder dramatists, Shakspeare alone excepted, -the main quality of a play, the story, is often defective to an excess, -not only in morality, but in probability and consistency; and the same -defects exist in the delineation of character in many of their noblest -plays. - -[101] Of the mental process which the pupils at this highland school -undergo, I can say nothing, being totally unacquainted with the system -of education adopted there; but a more advantageous residence for the -cultivation of health, strength (for physical education), or the -development of all those pious and poetical tendings of the human soul -and mind which are fostered and ripened by the sublime influence of -natural beauty and grandeur, cannot be imagined. The gentlemen at the -head of this establishment are New Englanders. The observations I made -upon the superior intelligence and cultivation of the natives of that -part of the United States have been borne out constantly by the fact, -that there is hardly any establishment in the States I have visited, in -any way connected with education, or the dissemination of information, -which is not conducted partially or entirely by New Englanders. - -[102] Troy! and that Troy has a Mount Ida! The names of places in this -country are truly astonishing. Troy, Syracuse, and Rome are pretty well -in this way; but the state of New York alone, I believe, boasts of a -Manlius, a Homer, a Virgil, an Ovid, a Cicero, and a Socrates, whose -second appearance in this world is in all the glories of flaming red -bricks, new boards, and white paint. Did Pythagoras admit of men -becoming towns as well as beasts? I forget. - -[103] These beautiful little delicate wild flowers seem to love the dewy -neighbourhood of waterfalls: it is only at Trenton, and the Chaudière in -Canada, that I remember to have seen them at all in this country. Some -poor Scotch peasants, about to emigrate to Canada, took away with them -some roots of the "bonny blooming heather," in hopes of making this -beloved adorner of their native mountains the cheerer of their exile in -the wild lands to which they were going. The heather, however, refused -to grow in the Canadian soil, and the poor emigrants had not the -melancholy pleasure of seeing its sweet familiar bloom round their new -dwellings. The person who told me this said that the circumstance had -been related to him by Walter Scott, whose sympathy with the -disappointment of these poor children of the romantic heatherland -betrayed itself even in tears. When I visited the beautiful falls of the -Chaudière, our party was enlivened, and the picturesque effect of the -scene much heightened, by some of the Highland band belonging to the -regiment quartered in Quebec. I could not help wondering, as I gathered -the blue bells, which grew profusely round the cataract, whether these -poor fellows looked upon the emblem of their distant country with any of -the feelings which I lent them; and the whole brought back to my mind -the heather that would not gladden the exile's eyes in a foreign soil, -and the compassion of Scott for his countrymen's disappointment. - -[104] I do not know that the sense of danger has ever been so vivid in -my mind as while walking along this narrow edge of eternity. Nothing -around Niagara appeared to me half so full of peril as the path along -the Trenton Falls, although I have hung over the brink of the last rock -that vibrates on the very verge of that great abyss, and explored, -entirely alone, the path under the huge watery curtain that falls from -Table Rock. I do not know whether the mention of the late accidents at -Trenton affected my imagination, and caused me to exaggerate the danger; -but it appeared to me almost miraculous that every body passing along -those narrow, dripping, uneven ledges did not share the fate of the two -unfortunate persons I have mentioned. - -[105] Thank God! a firebrand, which shall throw all England into -confusion and anarchy, is not, indeed, of easy make. Italy, crushed -under the heel of her northern rulers; or France, blown about with every -breath of opinion, may rush into revolutions for a ballad or an opera. -The misery of the one, and the miserable excitability of the other -nation, render it easy to rouse, in the former, the spirit of -retribution; in the latter, the desire of change. But Englishmen, who -are neither slaves nor weathercocks, are less easily stirred to wild -excesses of political excitement. Let who will steer, the old ship is -too well ballasted to sink. Whoever rules, whatever party may be at the -head of her government, England is sound at heart: there is a broad -foundation of moral good and intelligence in the nation, which will not -be shaken or upturned, let factions erect or pull down what temporary -trophies they please, to their own short-lived and selfish triumphs. The -file of the mechanic may still gnaw angrily at the iron crown of the -aristocracy; interests of classes may still jar, parties wrangle, and -the eternal warfare between those who climb, and those who stand upon -the topmost round of the ladder, may still be waged. And so be it: in -none of these is there fear or danger; but rather a wholesome action of -power against power; a checking, winnowing, purifying, and preserving -influence. Moral evil, vice--and mental evil, ignorance--are the roots -of decay: surely England is far from the day of her downfalling. - -[106] I have had occasion to observe, in a former note, that foreigners -travelling through this country see only the least desirable society of -the various cities they visit. There is another class of Americans, whom -they rarely, if ever, become acquainted with at all; by far the most -interesting, in my opinion, which the country affords. I speak of those -families thickly scattered through all the states, from whose original -settlers many of them are immediately descended; who reside upon lands -purchased by their grandfathers in the early days of the _British -colonies_; and who, living remote from the Atlantic cities, and the more -travelled routes between them, are free from all the peculiarities which -displease a European in the societies of the towns, and possess traits -of originality in their manners, minds, and mode of life, infinitely -refreshing to the observer, wearied of the eternal sameness which -pervades the human congregations of the Old World. - -In mixing with the commercial fashionables and exclusives of the -American cities, the European is at once amused and annoyed with the -assumption of a social tone and spirit at variance with the whole _make_ -of the country. He is told that he is in the best society of the place, -and with perfect justice condemns this best society as, probably, the -worst he ever saw: a society assuming the airs of separate rank where no -rank at all exists, attempting to copy the luxury and splendour of the -residents of European capitals, without possessing one tithe of their -wealth to excuse the extravagance, or enable them to succeed in the -endeavour, and presenting the most incongruous and displeasing mixture -possible of pretension, ignorance, affectation, and vulgarity. I have -before said, that even in the cities there are circles of a very -different order; but yet freer from all these drawbacks is the society -formed by the class of people of whom I have spoken above, and whom I -should designate as the gentry of this country; using that term in the -best sense in which it was once used in England. - -Among this large but widely-scattered portion of the community, should -the European traveller's good fortune lead him, he will find hospitality -without ostentation, purity of morals independent of the dread of -opinion, intellectual cultivation unmixed with the desire of display, -great simplicity of life and ignorance of the world, originality of mind -naturally arising from independence and solitude, and _the best_, -because the most natural, manners. Of such, I know, from the lower -shores of the Chesapeake, to the half savage territory around -Michilimakinack. - -[107] This spot is famous as the scene of the last exploit of a singular -individual, known by the name of Sam Patch. An Irishman by birth, I -believe, he came over to this country to earn his bread, and hit upon a -very ingenious method of doing so, _i. e._ jumping for large wagers down -cataracts; which daring feat he performed successfully more than once. -But, like the Sicilian diver of old, poor Sam Patch took one plunge too -many; and, after leaping with impunity from the rocks immediately below -the Falls of Niagara, he found his death in the Genesee--attempting the -leap, it is said, while in a state of intoxication. - -[108] Although nobody, I believe, ever travelled a hundred miles by land -in this country without being overturned, the drivers deserve infinite -credit for the _rare occurrence_ of accidents. How they can carry a -coach at all over some of their roads is miraculous; and high praise is -due to them both for care and skill, that any body, in any part of this -country, ever arrives at the end of a land journey at all. I do not ever -remember to have seen six-in-hand driving except in New England, where -it is common, and where the stage-drivers are great adepts in their -mystery. - - - - -+-------------------------------------------------+ -|Transcriber's note: | -| | -|Obvious typographic errors have been corrected. | -| | -+-------------------------------------------------+ - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A RESIDENCE IN AMERICA*** - - -******* This file should be named 51932-8.txt or 51932-8.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/1/9/3/51932 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it -under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this -eBook or online at <a -href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you are not -located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this ebook.</p> -<p>Title: Journal of a Residence in America</p> -<p>Author: Fanny Kemble</p> -<p>Release Date: May 2, 2016 [eBook #51932]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A RESIDENCE IN AMERICA***</p> -<p> </p> -<h4>E-text prepared by Suzanne Shell, Martin Pettit,<br /> - and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> - (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - Internet Archive/American Libraries<br /> - (<a href="https://archive.org/details/americana">https://archive.org/details/americana</a>)</h4> -<p> </p> -<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> - <tr> - <td valign="top"> - Note: - </td> - <td> - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive/American Libraries. See - <a href="https://archive.org/details/journalaresiden01kembgoog"> - https://archive.org/details/journalaresiden01kembgoog</a> - </td> - </tr> -</table> -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<div class="center"><a name="cover.jpg" id="cover.jpg"></a><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="cover" /></div> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p> - -<p class="bold2">JOURNAL</p> - -<p class="bold">OF A</p> - -<p class="bold2">RESIDENCE IN AMERICA.</p> - -<hr /> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/titlepage.jpg" alt="title page" /></div> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p> - -<h1>JOURNAL<br />OF A<br />RESIDENCE IN AMERICA.</h1> - -<p class="bold space-above">BY</p> - -<p class="bold2 space-above">FRANCES ANNE BUTLER</p> - -<p class="bold2">(MISS FANNY KEMBLE).</p> - -<hr class="smler" /> - -<p class="bold">IN ONE VOLUME.</p> - -<hr class="smler" /> - -<p class="bold">PARIS,<br /> -PUBLISHED BY <span class="smcap">A. and W. GALIGNANI and</span> C<sup>o</sup>,<br /> -RUE VIVIENNE, N<sup>o</sup> 18.</p> - -<hr class="smler" /> - -<p class="bold">1835.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p> - -<h2>PREFACE.</h2> - -<hr class="smler" /> - -<p>A preface appears to me necessary to this book, in order that the -expectation with which the English reader might open it should not be -disappointed.</p> - -<p>Some curiosity has of late been excited in England with regard to -America: its political existence is a momentous experiment, upon which -many eyes are fixed, in anxious watching of the result; and such -accounts as have been published of the customs and manners of its -societies, and the natural wonders and beauties of its scenery, have -been received and read with considerable interest in Europe. This being -the case, I should be loth to present these volumes to the English -public without disclaiming both the intention and the capability of -adding the slightest detail of any interest to those which other -travellers have already furnished upon these subjects.</p> - -<p>This book is, what it professes to be, my personal journal, and not a -history or a description of men and manners in the United States.</p> - -<p>Engaged in an arduous profession, and travelling from city to city in -its exercise, my leisure and my opportunities would have been alike -inadequate to such a task. The portion of America which I have visited -has been a very small one, and, I imagine, by no means that from which -the most interesting details are to be drawn. I have been neither to the -south nor to the west; consequently have had no opportunity of seeing -two large portions of the population of this country,—the enterprising -explorers of the late wildernesses on the shores of the -Mississippi,—and the black race of the slave slates,—both classes of -men presenting peculiarities of infinite interest to the traveller: the -one, a source of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span> energy and growing strength, the other, of disease and -decay, in this vast political body.</p> - -<p>My sphere of observation has been confined to the Atlantic cities, whose -astonishing mercantile prosperity, and motley mongrel societies, though -curious under many aspects, are interesting but under few.</p> - -<p>What I registered were my immediate impressions of what I saw and heard; -of course, liable to all the errors attendant upon first perceptions, -and want of time and occasion for maturer investigation. The notes I -have added while preparing the text for the press; and such opinions and -details as they contain are the result of a longer residence in this -country, and a somewhat better acquaintance with the people of it.</p> - -<p>Written, as my journal was, day by day, and often after the fatigues of -a laborious evening's duty at the theatre, it has infinite sins of -carelessness to answer for; and but that it would have taken less time -and trouble to re-write the whole book, or rather write a better, I -would have endeavoured to correct them,—though, indeed, I was something -of Alfieri's mind about it:—"Quanto poi allo stile, io penso di lasciar -fare alla penna, e di pochissimo lasciarlo scostarsi da quella triviale -e spontanea naturalezza, con cui ho scritto quest' opera, dettata dal -cuore e non dall' ingegno; e che sola puo convenire a così umile tema."</p> - -<p>However, my purpose is not to write an apology for my book, or its -defects, but simply to warn the English reader, before he is betrayed -into its perusal, that it is a purely egotistical record, and by no -means a history of America.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> - -<h2>JOURNAL.</h2> - -<hr class="smler" /> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, August 1st, 1832.</i></h3> - -<p>Another break in my journal, and here I am on board the Pacific, bound -for America, having left home and all the world behind.—Well!</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>We reached the quay just as the ship was being pulled, and pushed, and -levered to the entrance of the dock;—the quays were lined with people; -among them were several known faces,—Mr. ——, Mr. ——. M—— came on -board to take my letters, and bid me good-by.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I had a bunch of carnations in my hand, which I had snatched from our -drawing-room chimney;—English flowers! dear English flowers! they will -be withered long before I again see land; but I will keep them until I -once more stand upon the soil on which they grew.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The sky had become clouded, and the wind blew cold.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Came down and put our narrow room to rights.</p> - -<p>Worked at my Bible-cover till dinner-time. We dined at half-past -three.—The table was excellent—cold dinner, because it was the first -day—but every thing was good; and champagne, and dessert, and every -luxury imaginable, rendered it as little like a ship-dinner as might be. -The man who sat by me was an American; very good-natured, and talkative. -Our passengers are all men, with the exception of three; a nice -pretty-looking girl, who is going out with her brother; a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> fat old -woman, and a fat young one. I cried almost the whole of dinner-time.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>After dinner the ladies adjourned to their own cabin, and the gentlemen -began to debate about regulating the meal hours. They adopted the -debating society tone, called my poor dear father to the chair, and -presently I heard, oh horror! (what I had not thought to hear again for -six weeks) the clapping of hands. They sent him in to consult us about -the dinner-hour: and we having decided four o'clock, the debate -continued with considerable merriment. Presently my father, Colonel -——, and Mr. ——, came into our cabin:—the former read us Washington -Irving's speech at the New-York dinner. Some of it is very beautiful; -all of it is in good feeling—it made me cry. Oh my home, my land, -England, glorious little England! from which this bragging big baby was -born, how my heart yearns towards your earth! I sat working till the -gentlemen left us, and then wrote journal.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I am weary and sad, and will try to go and sleep.—It rains: I cannot -see the moon.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 2d.</i></h3> - -<p>It rained all night, and in the morning the wind had died away, and we -lay rocking, becalmed on the waveless waters. At eight o'clock they -brought me some breakfast, after which I got up; while dressing, I could -not help being amused at hearing the cocks crowing, and the cow lowing, -and geese and ducks gabbling, as though we were in the midst of a -farm-yard. At half-past ten, having finished my toilet, I emerged; and -Miss —— and I walked upon deck. The sea lay still, and grey, without -ridge or sparkle, a sheet of lead; the sky was of the same dull colour. -The deck was wet and comfortless. We were but just off Holyhead: two or -three ships stood against the horizon, still as ourselves. The whole was -melancholy:—and, sadder than all, sat a poor woman, dressed in -mourning, in a corner of the deck; she was a steerage passenger, and I -never saw so much sorrow in any face. Poor thing! poor thing! was her -heart aching for home, and kindred left behind her? It made mine ach to -look at her. We walked up and down for an hour. I like my companion -well; she is a nice young quiet thing, just come<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> from a country home. -Came down, and began getting out books for my German lesson, but, -turning rather awful, left my learning on the floor, and betook myself -to my berth. Slept nearly till dinner-time. At dinner I took my place at -table, but presently the misery returned; and getting up, while I had -sufficient steadiness left to walk becomingly down the room, I came to -my cabin; my dinner followed me thither, and, lying on my back, I very -comfortably discussed it. Got up, devoured some raspberry-tart and -grapes, and, being altogether delightful again, sat working and singing -till tea-time: after which, wrote journal, and now to bed. How strange -it seems to hear these Americans speaking in English of <i>the -English</i>!—"Oh, hame, hame, hame wad I be,"—but it is not time to sing -that yet.</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 3d.</i></h3> - -<p>Breakfasted at eight; got up, and dressed, and came upon deck. The day -was lovely, the sea one deep dark sapphire, the sky bright and -cloudless, the wind mild and soft, too mild to fill our sails, which -hung lazily against the masts,—but enough to refresh the warm summer's -sky, and temper the bright sun of August that shone above us. Walked -upon deck with Miss —— and Captain Whaite: the latter is a very -intelligent good-natured person; rough and bluff, and only -seven-and-twenty; which makes his having the command of a ship rather an -awful consideration. At half-past eleven got my German, and worked at it -till half-past one, then got my work; and presently we were summoned on -deck by sound of bell, and oyes! oyes! oyes!—and a society was -established for the good demeanour and sociability of the passengers. My -father was in the chair. Mr. —— was voted secretary, Dr. —— -attorney-general; a badge was established, rules and regulations laid -down, a code framed, and much laughing and merriment thence ensued. -Worked till dinner-time. After dinner, went on deck, took a brisk walk -for half an hour with Captain Whaite. Established myself to work, and -presently we were all summoned to attend a mock trial of Colonel ——, -which made us all laugh most exceedingly. We adopted titles—I chose my -family appellation of Puddledock: many of the names were very absurd, -and as a penalty ensued upon not giving every body their proper -designation, much amusement arose from it. When the trial was over, we -played at dumb crambo, and earth, air, and water, with <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>infinite zeal, -till tea-time. After tea, we were summoned on deck to see the ship make -a tack. The wind was against us, the sea inky black, the pale clear moon -stood high against the sail—presently, with a whooping and yaw-awling -that mocks description, the fair ship was turned away from the wind, the -sails veered round, and she set in another course. We remained on deck, -the gentlemen gathered round us, and singing began:—it went round and -round by turns; some of our voices were very sweet, and, upon the whole, -'twas time pleasantly spent. Came to bed at ten.</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 15th.</i></h3> - -<p>Here's a lapse! thanks to head winds, a rolling sea, and their result, -sickness, sadness, sorrow. I've been better for the last two days, thank -God! and take to my book again. Rose at eight, dawdled about, and then -came up stairs. Breakfasted, sat working at my Bible-cover till -lunch-time. Somebody asked me if I had any of Mrs. Siddons's hair; I -sent for my dressing-box, and forthwith it was overhauled, to use the -appropriate phrase, by half the company, whom a rainy day had reduced to -a state of worse than usual want of occupation. The rain continued all -day; we ladies dined in the round-house, the room down stairs being too -close. The Captain and Colonel —— joined us afterwards, and began -drinking champagne, and induced us to do the same. As evening came on, -the whole of the passengers collected in the round-house. Mr. ——, Mr. -D——, and I wrote a rhapsody; afterwards they fell to singing; while -they did so, the sky darkened tremendously, the rain came pelting down, -the black sea swelled, and rose, and broke upon the ship's sides into -boiling furrows of foam, that fled like ghosts along the inky face of -the ocean. The ship scudded before the blast, and we managed to keep -ourselves warm by singing. After tea, for the first time since I have -been on board, got hold of a pack of cards, (oh me, that it ever should -come to this!) and initiated Miss —— in the mysteries of the -intellectual game. Mercy! how my home rose before me as I did so. Played -till I was tired; dozed, and finally came to bed. Bed! quotha! 'tis a -frightful misapplication of terms. Oh for a bed! a real bed; any manner -of bed but a bed on shipboard! And yet I have seen some fair things: I -have seen a universe of air and water; I have seen the glorious sun come -and look down upon this rolling sapphire; I have seen the moon throw<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> -her silver columns along the watery waste; I have seen one lonely ship -in her silent walk across this wilderness, meet another, greet her, and -pass her, like a dream, on the wide deep; I have seen the dark world of -waters at midnight open its mysterious mantle beneath our ship's prow, -and show below another dazzling world of light. I have seen, what I -would not but have seen, though I have left my very soul behind me. -England, dear, dear England! oh, for a handful of your earth!</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 16th.</i></h3> - -<p>Another day, another day! the old fellow posts as well over water as -over land! Rose at about half-past eight, went up to the round-house; -breakfasted, and worked at my Bible-cover. As soon as our tent was -spread, went out on deck: took a longish walk with Mr. ——. I like him -very much; his face would enchant Lavater, and his skull ecstacise the -Combes. Lay down under our rough pavilion, and heard the gentlemen -descant very learnedly upon freemasonry. A book called "Adventures of an -Irish Gentleman," suggested the conversation; in which are detailed some -of the initiatory ceremonies, which appear to me so incredibly foolish, -that I can scarce believe them, even making mankind a handsome allowance -for absurdity. I soon perceived that the discussion was likely to prove -a serious one, for in America, it seems, 'tis made a political question; -and our Boston friend, and the Jacksonite, fell to rather sharply about -it. The temperance of the former, however, by retreating from the field, -spared us further argumentation. One thing I marvel at:—are the -institutions of men stronger to bind men, than those of God; and does -masonry effect good, which Christianity does not?—a silly query, by the -way; for doubtless men act the good, but forbear to act the evil, before -each other's eyes; which they think nothing of doing, or leaving undone, -under those of God.</p> - -<p>Gossiped till lunch-time; afterwards took up Childe Harold,—commend me -to that! I thought of dear H——. She admires Byron more than I do; and -yet how wildly I did, how deeply I do still, worship his might, majesty, -and loveliness. We dined up stairs, and after dinner, I and Mr. —— -look a long walk on deck; talking flimsy morality, and philosophy, the -text of which were generalities, but all the points individualities: I -was amused in my heart at him and myself. He'd a good miss of me at -——: Heaven knows, I was odious enough! and therein his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> informer was -right. The day was bright, and bitter cold,—the sea blue, and -transparent as that loveliest line in Dante,</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>"Dolce color di oriental zaffiro,"</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>with a lining of pearly foam, and glittering spray, that enchanted me. -Came and sat down again:—wrote doggerel for the captain's album, about -the captain's ship, which, when once I am out of her, I'll swear I love -infinitely. Read aloud to them some of Byron's short poems, and that -glorious hymn to the sea, in Childe Harold:—mercy, how fine it is! Lay -under our canvass shed till nine o'clock:—the stars were brilliant in -the intense blue sky, the wind had dropped, the ship lay still—we sang -a song or two, supped, and came in; where, after inditing two -rhapsodies, we came to bed.</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 17th.</i></h3> - -<p>On my back all day: mercy, how it ached too! the ship reeled about like -a drunken thing. I lay down, and began reading Byron's life. As far as I -have gone (which is to his leaving England) there is nothing in it but -what I expected to find,—the fairly-sown seeds of the after-harvest he -bore. Had he been less of an egotist, would he have been so great a -poet?—I question it. His fury and wrath at the severe injustice of his -critics reminds me, by the by, of those few lines in the Athenæum, which -I read the other day, about poetical shoemakers, dairy-maids, ploughmen, -and myself. After all, what matters it?—"If this thing be of God," the -devil can't overthrow it; if it be not, why the printer's devil may. -What can it signify what is said? If truth be truth to the end of -reckoning, why, that share of her, if any, which I possess, must endure -when recorded as long as truth endures. I almost wonder Byron was moved -by criticism: I should have thought him at once too highly armed, and -too self-wrapped, to care for it;—however, if a wasp's sting have such -virtue in it, 'tis as well it should have been felt as keenly as it -was.—Ate nothing but figs and raisins; in the evening some of our -gentlemen came into our cabin, and sat with us; I, in very desperation -and sea-sickness, began embroidering one of my old nightcaps, wherein I -persevered till sleep overtook me.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 18th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at about half-past eight, dawdled about as usual, breakfasted in -the round-house—by the by, before I got out of bed, read a few more -pages of Byron's life. I don't exactly understand the species of -sentimental <i>galimatias</i> Moore talks about Byron's writing with the same -penfull of ink, "Adieu, adieu, my native land!" and "Hurra! Hodgson, we -are going." It proves nothing except what I firmly believe, that we must -not look for the real feelings of writers in their works—or rather, -that what they give us, and what we take for heart feeling, is head -weaving—a species of emotion engendered somewhere betwixt the bosom and -the brain, and bearing the same proportion of resemblance to reality -that a picture does; that is—like feeling, but not feeling—like -sadness, but not sadness—like what it appears, but not indeed that very -thing: and the greater a man's power of thus producing <i>sham realities</i>, -the greater his main qualification for being a poet. After breakfast, -sat, like Lady Alice in the old song, embroidering my midnight coif. Got -Colonel —— to read Quentin Durward to us as we sat working under our -canvass pavilion.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Our company consists chiefly of traders in cloth and hardware, clerks, -and counting-house men—a species with but few peculiarities of interest -to me, who cannot talk pounds, shillings, and pence, as glibly as less -substantial trash. Most of them have crossed this trifling ditch half a -dozen times in their various avocations. But though they belong to the -same sort generally, they differ enough individually for the amusement -of observation. That poor widower, whose remarks on the starry inside of -the sea attracted my attention the other evening, put into my hands -to-day a couple of pretty little books enough; a sort of hotch-potch, -or, to speak more sweetly, pot-pourri praise of women—passages selected -from various authors who have done us the honour to remember us in their -good commendations. There were one or two most eloquent and exquisite -passages from Jeremy Taylor—one on love that enchanted me. I should -like to copy it. What a contrast to that exquisite thing of Shelley's, -"What is Love?" and yet they are both beautiful, powerful, and true. I -could have helped them to sundry more passages on this subject, -particularly from my oracle. Mr. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>—— read to us after lunch, and we sat -very happily under our <i>yawning</i> till the rain drove us in. No wind, the -sea one rippleless sheet of lead, and the sky just such another. Our -main-top gallant-mast had been split in one of our late blows, and I -went out in the rain to see them restore the spar. Towards evening the -wind faired and freshened, in consequence of which our gentlemen's -spirits rose; and presently, in spite of the rain, they were dancing, -singing, and romping like mad things on the quarter-deck. It was -Saturday—holiday on board ship—the men were all dismissed to their -grog. Mr. —— and I sang through a whole volume of Moore's melodies; -and at ten o'clock (for the first time since our second day on board) we -of the petticoats adjourned to the gentlemen's cabin to drink -"sweethearts and wives," according to the approved sailors' practice. It -made me sad to hear them, as they lifted their glasses to their lips, -pass round the toast, "Sweethearts and wives!" I drank in my -heart—"Home and dear H——." One thing amused me a good deal:—the -Captain proposed as a toast, "The Ladies—God bless them," which -accordingly was being duly drunk, when I heard, close to my elbow, a -devout, half audible—"and the Lord deliver us!" This, from a man with a -face like one of Retsch's most grotesque etchings, and an expression -half humorous, half terrified, sent me into fits of laughter. They sang -a song or two, and at twelve we left them to their meditations, which -presently reached our ears in the sound, not shape, of "Health to -Bacchus," in full chorus, to which tune I said my prayers.</p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 19th.</i></h3> - -<p>Did not rise till late—dressed and came on deck. The morning was -brilliant; the sea, bold, bright, dashing its snowy crests against our -ship's sides, and flinging up a cloud of glittering spray round the -prow. I breakfasted—and then amused myself with finding the lessons, -collects, and psalms for the whole ship's company. After lunch, they -spread our tent; a chair was placed for my father, and, the little bell -being rung, we collected in our rude church. It affected me much, this -praying on the lonely sea, in the words that at the same hour were being -uttered by millions of kindred tongues in our dear home. There was -something, too, impressive and touching in this momentary union of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> -strangers, met but for a passing day, to part, perhaps, never to behold -each other's faces again, in the holiest of all unions, that of -Christian worship. Here I felt how close, how strong that wondrous tie -of common faith that thus gathered our company, unknown and unconnected -by any one worldly interest or bond, to utter the same words of praise -and supplication, to think perhaps the same thoughts of humble and -trustful dependence on God's great goodness in this our pilgrimage to -foreign lands, to yearn perhaps with the same affection and earnest -imploring of blessings towards our native soil and its beloved ones left -behind.—Oh, how I felt all this, as we spoke aloud that touching -invocation, which is always one of my most earnest prayers, "Almighty -God, who hast promised when two or three are gathered together in thy -name," etc. * * * The bright cloudless sky and glorious sea seemed to -respond, in their silent magnificence, to our <i>Te Deum</i>.—I felt more of -the excitement of prayer than I have known for many a day, and 'twas -good—oh! very, very good!</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>'Tis good to behold this new universe, this mighty sea which he hath -made, this glorious cloudless sky, where hang, like dew drops, his -scattered worlds of light—to see all this, and say,—</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>"These are thy glorious works, parent of good!"</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>After prayers, wrote journal. Some sea-weed floated by the ship to-day, -borne from the gulf stream; I longed to have it, for it told of land: -gulls too came wheeling about, and the little petterels like -sea-swallows skimmed round and round, now resting on the still bosom of -the sunny sea, now flickering away in rapid circles like black -butterflies. They got a gun, to my horror, and wasted a deal of time in -trying to shoot these feathered mariners; but they did not even succeed -in scaring them. We went and sat on the forecastle to see the sun set: -he did not go down cloudless, but dusky ridges of vapour stretched into -ruddy streaks along the horizon, as his disk dipped into the burnished -sea. The foam round the prow, as the ship made way with all sail set -before a fair wind, was the most lovely thing I ever saw. Purity, -strength, glee, and wondrous beauty were in those showers of snowy spray -that sprang up above the black' ship's sides, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> fell like a cataract -of rubies under the red sunlight. We sat there till evening came down: -the sea, from brilliant azure, grew black as unknown things, the wind -freshened, and we left our cold stand to walk, or rather run, up and -down the deck to warm ourselves. This we continued till, one by one, the -stars had lit their lamps in heaven: their wondrous brilliancy, together -with the Aurora Borealis, which rushed like sheeted ghosts along the -sky, and the stream of fire that shone round the ship's way, made heaven -and sea appear like one vast world of flame, as though the thin blue -veil of air and the dark curtain of the waters were but drawn across a -universe of light. Mercy, how strange it was! We stood at the stern, -watching the milky wake the ship left as she stole through the eddying -waters. Came back to our gipsy encampment, where, by the light of a -lantern, we supped and sang sundry scraps of old songs. At ten came to bed.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Took an observation of the sun's altitude at noon, and saw them hoist a -main-top-royal sail, which looked very pretty as it was unreefed against -the clear sky.</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 20th.</i></h3> - -<p>Calm—utter calm—a roasting August sun, a waveless sea, the sails -flapping idly against the mast, and our black cradle rocking to and fro -without progressing a step. They lowered the boat, and went out -rowing—I wanted to go, but they would not let me! A brig was standing -some four miles off us, which, by the by, I was the first to see, except -our mate, in my morning watch, which began at five o'clock, when I saw -the moon set and the sun rise, and feel more than ever convinced that -absolute reality is away from the purpose of works of art. The sky this -morning was as like the sea shore as ever sand and shingle were, the -clouds lying along the horizon in pale dusky yellow layers, and higher -up, floating in light brown ribbed masses, like the sands which grow -wrinkled under the eternal smiling of the sea. Against the dim horizon, -which blended with the violet-coloured sky, the mate then showed me, -through the glass, the brig standing on the sea's edge, for all the -world like one of the tiny birds who were wheeling and chirping round -our ship's stern. I have done more in the shape of work to-day than any -since the two first I spent on board; translated a German fable without<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> -much trouble, read a canto in Dante, ending with a valuation of fame. "O -spirito gentil!" how lived fair wisdom in your soul—how shines she in -your lays!—Wrote journal, walked about, worked at my cap, in the -evening danced merrily enough, quadrilles, country dances, La -Boulangère, and the monaco; fairly danced myself tired. Came to bed. But -oh! not to sleep—mercy, what a night! The wind blowing like mad, the -sea rolling, the ship pitching, bouncing, shuddering, and reeling, like -a thing possessed. I lay awake, listening to her creaking and groaning, -till two o'clock, when, sick of my sleepless berth, I got up and was -going up stairs, to see, at least, how near drowning we were, when -D——, who was lying awake too, implored me to lie down again. I did so -for the hundred and eleventh time, complaining bitterly that I should be -stuffed down in a loathsome berth, cabined, cribbed, confined, while the -sea was boiling below, and the wind bellowing above us. Lay till -daylight, the gale increasing furiously; boxes, chairs, beds, and their -contents, wooden valuables, and human invaluables, rolling about and -clinging to one another in glorious confusion. At about eight o'clock, a -tremendous sea took the ship in the waist, and, rushing over the deck, -banged against our sky-light, and bounced into our cabin. Three women -were immediately apparent from their respective cribs, and poor H—— -appeared in all her lengthy full-length, and came and took refuge with -me. As I held her in my arms, and put my cloak round her, she shook from -head to foot, poor child!—I was not the least frightened, but rather -excited by this invasion of Dan Neptune's; but I wish to goodness I had -been on deck.—Oh, how I wish I had seen that spoonful of salt water -flung from the sea's boiling bowl! I heard afterwards, that it had -nearly washed away poor Mr. ——, besides handsomely ducking and -frightening our military man. Lay all day on my back, most wretched, the -ship heaving like any earthquake; in fact, there is something -irresistibly funny in the way in which people seem dispossessed of their -power of volition by this motion, rushing hither and thither in all -directions but the one they purpose going, and making as many angles, -fetches, and sidelong deviations from the point they aim at, as if the -devil had tied a string to their legs and jerked it every now and then -in spite—by the by, not a bad illustration of our mental and moral -struggles towards their legitimate aims. Another horrible night! oh -horror!</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 22d.</i></h3> - -<p>A fair wind—a fine day—though very very cold and damp. It seems, in -our squall last night, we had also a small piece of mutiny. During the -mate's watch, and while the storm was at the worst, the man who was -steering left the helm, and refused to obey orders; whereupon Mr. Curtis -took up a hatchet, and assured him he would knock his brains out,—which -the captain said, had it been his watch, he should have done on the -spot, and without further warning. We are upon the Newfoundland banks, -though not yet on soundings. Stitched my gown—worked at my -nightcap—walked about:—Mr. —— read Quentin Durward to us while we -worked. The extreme cold made us take refuge in our cabin, where I sat -working and singing till dinner-time. Dined at table again; afterwards -came back to our cabin—began writing journal, and was interrupted by -hearing a bustle in the dinner-room. The gentlemen were all standing up, -and presently I heard Walter Scott's name passed round:—it made me lay -down my pen. Oh! how pleasant it sounded—that unanimous blessing of -strangers upon a great and good man, thus far from him—from all but our -own small community. The genuine and spontaneous tribute to moral worth -and mental power! Poor, poor Sir Walter! And yet no prayer that can be -breathed to bless, no grateful and soul felt invocation, can snatch him -from the common doom of earth-born flesh, or buy away one hour's anguish -and prostration of body and spirit, before the triumphant infirmities of -our miserable nature. I thought of Dante's lines, that I read but a day -ago; and yet—and yet—fame is something. His fame is good—is great—is -glorious. To be enshrined in the hearts of all virtuous and wise men, as -the friend of virtue and the teacher of wisdom; to have freely given -pleasure, happiness, forgetfulness, to millions of his fellow-creatures; -to have made excellence lovely, and enjoyment pure and salutary; to have -taught none but lessons of honour and integrity; to have surrounded his -memory, and filled the minds of all men with images fair, and bright, -and wonderful, yet left around his name no halo, and in the hearts of -others no slightest cloud to blot these enchanting creations; to have -done nothing but good with God's good gifts—is not this fame worth -something? 'Tis worth man's love, and God's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> approval—'tis worth -toiling for, living for, and dying for. He has earned it fairly—he is a -great and good man—peace be with him in his hour of mortal sorrow, and -eternal peace hereafter in the heaven to which he surely goes. They then -drank Washington Irving,—a gentle spirit, too. After working for some -time more, came on deck, where we danced with infinite glee, disturbed -only by the surpassing uproar of Colonel ——.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The only of our crew whom I cotton to fairly, are the ——, and that -good-natured lad, Mr. ——: though the former rather distress me by -their abundant admiration, and the latter by his inveterate Yorkshire, -and never opening his mouth when he sings, which, as he has a very sweet -voice, is a cruel piece of selfishness, keeping half his tones, and all -his words, for his own private satisfaction.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 23d.</i></h3> - -<p>On soundings, and nearly off them again—a fine day;—worked at my -nightcap—another, by the by, having finished one—exemplary!—Walked -about, ate, drank, wrote journal—read some of it to the ——, who -seemed much gratified by my doing so. I go on with Byron's life. He is -loo much of an egotist. I do not like him a bit the better for knowing -his prose mind;—far from thinking it redeems any of the errors of his -poetical man, I think I never read any thing professing to be a person's -undisguised feelings and opinions, with so much heartlessness—so little -goodness in it. His views of society are like his views of human nature; -or rather, by the by, reverse the sentence, to prove the fallacy in -judgment; and though his satire is keen and true, yet he is nothing but -satirical—never, never serious and earnest, even with himself. Oh! I -have a horror of that sneering devil of Goethe's; and he seems to me to -have possessed Byron utterly. A curious thought, or rather a fantastical -shadow of a thought, occurred to me to-day in reading a chapter in the -Corinthians about the resurrection. I mean to be buried with H——'s -ring on my finger; will it be there when I rise again?—What a question -for the discussers of the needle's point controversy! My father read to -us, this afternoon, part of one of Webster's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> speeches. It was very -eloquent, but yet it did not fulfil my idea of perfect oratory—inasmuch -as I thought it too pictorial:—there was too much scenery and -decoration about it, to use the cant of my own trade;—there was too -much effect, theatrical effect in it, from which Heaven defend me, for I -do loathe it <i>in</i> its place, and fifty times worse out of it. Perhaps -Webster's speaking is a good sample, in its own line, of the leaven -wherewith these times are leavened. I mean only in its defects—for its -merits are sterling, and therefore of all time.</p> - -<p>But this oil and canvass style of thinking, writing, and speaking, is -bad. I wish our age were more sculptural in its genius—though I have -not the power in any thing to conform thereto, I have the grace to -perceive its higher excellence: yet Milton was a sculptor, Shakspeare a -painter. How do we get through that?—My reason for objecting to -Webster's style—though the tears were in my eyes several times while my -father read—is precisely the same as my reason for not altogether -liking my father's reading—'tis slightly theatrical—something too much -of passion, something too much of effect—but perhaps I am mistaken; for -I do so abhor the slightest approach to the lamps and orange peel, that -I had almost rather hear a "brazen candlestick turned on a wheel," than -all the music of due emphasis and inflection, if allied to a theatrical -manner.—Dined at table again. They abound in toasts, and, among others, -gave "The friends we have left, and those we are going to!" My heart -sank. I am going to no friend; and the "stranger," with which the -Americans salute wayfarers through their land, is the only title I can -claim amongst them. After dinner, walked about—danced—saw the sun sink -in a bed of gorgeous stormy clouds;—worked and walked till bed-time.—I -was considerably amused, and my English blood a little roused at a very -good-natured and well-meant caution of Mr. ——, to avoid making an -enemy of Colonel ——. He is, they say, a party man, having influence -which he may exert to our detriment.</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 24th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose late after a fair night's sleep—came up to the round-house. After -breakfast, worked and walked for an immense time. Read a canto in Dante: -just as I had finished it, "A sail! a sail!" was cried from all -quarters. Remembering my promise to dear H——, I got together my -writing-materials, and scrawled her a few incoherent lines full of my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> -very heart. The vessel bore rapidly down upon us, but as there was no -prospect of either her or our lying-to, Mr. —— tied my missive, -together with one Mr. —— had just scribbled, to a lump of lead, and -presently we all rushed on deck to see the ship pass us. She was an -English packet, from Valparaiso, bound to London; her foremast had been -carried away, but she was going gallantly before the wind. As she passed -us, Mr. —— got up into the boat, to have a better chance of throwing. -I saw him fling powerfully,—the little packet whizzed through the air, -but the distance was impossible, and the dark waters received it within -twenty feet of the ship, which sailed rapidly on, and had soon left us -far behind. I believe I screamed, as the black sea closed over my poor -letter.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Came down to my cabin and cried like a wretch—came up again, and found -them all at lunch. Went and lay on the bowsprit, watching the fair ship -courtesying through the bright sea with all her sail set, a gallant and -graceful sight. Came in—wrote journal—translated a German fable. -Worked at my cap, while my father went on with Webster's speech. I am -still of the same mind about it, though some of the passages he read -to-day were finer than any I had heard before. He gets over a shallow -descent with admirable plausibility—and yet I think I would rather be -descended from a half heathen Saxon giant, than from William Penn -himself. We dined at table again; D—— could not: she was ill. After -dinner, sat working for some time;—I had a horrid sick headach,—walked -on deck. The wind and sea were both rising; we stood by the side of the -ship, and watched the inky waters swelling themselves, and rolling -sullenly towards us, till they broke in silver clouds against the ship, -and sprang above her sides, covering us with spray. The sky had grown -mirk as midnight, and the wind that came rushing over the sea was hot -from the south. We staid out till it grew dark. At ten, the crazy old -ship, in one of her headlong bounces, flung my whole supper in my lap; -the wind and water were riotous; the ship plunged and shuddered. After -screwing my courage to a game of speculation, I was obliged to leave it, -and my companions. Came down and went to bed.—Oh horror! loathsome -life!—</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Saturday and Sunday.</i></h3> - -<p>Towards evening got up and came on deck:—tremendous head wind, going -off our course; pray Heaven we don't make an impromptu landing on Sable -Island! Sat on the ship's side, watching the huge ocean gathering itself -up into pitchy mountains, and rolling its vast ridges, one after -another, against the good ship, who dipped, and dipped, and dived down -into the black chasm, and then sprang up again, and rode over the -swelling surges like an empress. The sky was a mass of stormy black, -here and there edged with a copper-looking cloud, and breaking in one or -two directions into pale silvery strata, that had an unhealthy lightning -look: a heavy black squall lay ahead of us, like a dusky curtain, whence -we saw the rain, fringe-like, pouring down against the horizon. The wind -blew furiously. I got cradled among the ropes, so as not to be pitched -off when the ship lurched, and enjoyed it all amazingly. It was sad and -solemn, and, but for the excitement of the savage-looking waves, that -every now and then lifted their overwhelming sides against us, it would -have made me melancholy: but it stirred my spirits to ride over these -huge sea-horses, that came bounding and bellowing round us. Remained -till I was chilled with the bitter wind, and wet through with -spray;—walked up and down the deck for some time,—had scarce set foot -within the round-house, when a sea took her in midships, and soused the -loiterers. Sat up, or rather slept up, till ten o'clock, and then went -down to bed. I took up Pelham to-day for a second—'t is amazingly -clever, and like the thing it means to be, to boot. Heard something -funny that I wish to remember—at a Methodist meeting, the singer who -led the Psalm tune, finding that his concluding word, which was Jacob, -had not syllables enough to fill up the music adequately, ended -thus—Ja-a-a-a—Ja-a-a-a—fol-de-riddle—cob!—</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 26th.</i></h3> - -<p>Read Byron's life;—defend me from my friends! Rose tolerably late; -after breakfast, took a walk on deck—lay and slept under our sea-tent; -read on until lunch-time—dined on deck. After dinner walked about with -H—— and the captain; we had seated ourselves on the ship's side,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> but -he being called away, we rushed off to the forecastle to enjoy the -starlight by ourselves. We sat for a little time, but were soon found -out; Mr. —— and Mr. —— joined us, and we sat till near twelve -o'clock, singing and rocking under the stars. Venus—"The star of love, -all stars above,"—threw a silver column down the sea, like the younger -sister of the moon's reflection. By the by, I saw to-day, and with -delight, an American sunset. The glorious god strode down heaven's hill, -without a cloud to dim his downward path;—as his golden disk touched -the panting sea, I turned my head away, and in less than a minute he had -fallen beneath the horizon—leapt down into the warm waves, and left one -glow of amber round half the sky; upon whose verge, where the violet -curtain of twilight came spreading down to meet its golden fringe,</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="i3">"The maiden,</div> -<div>With white fire laden,</div> -<div>Whom mortals call the moon,"</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>stood, with her silver lamp in her hand, and her pale misty robes -casting their wan lustre faintly around her. Oh me, how glorious it was! -how sad, how very very sad I was!</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>Dear, yet forbidden thoughts, that from my soul,</div> -<div>While shines the weary sun, with stern control</div> -<div>I drive away; why, when my spirits lie</div> -<div>Shrouded in the cold sleep of misery,</div> -<div>Do ye return, to mock me with false dreaming,</div> -<div>Where love, and all life's happiness is beaming?</div> -<div>Oh visions fair! that one by one have gone</div> -<div>Down, 'neath the dark horizon of my days,</div> -<div>Let not your pale reflection linger on</div> -<div>In the bleak sky, where live no more your rays.</div> -<div>Night! silent nurse, that with thy solemn eyes</div> -<div>Hang'st o'er the rocking cradle of the world,</div> -<div>Oh! be thou darker to my dreaming eyes,</div> -<div>Nor, in my slumbers, be the past unfurl'd.</div> -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p><div>Haunt me no more with whisperings from the dead.</div> -<div>The dead in heart, the changed, the withered:</div> -<div>Bring me no more sweet blossoms from my spring,</div> -<div>Which round my soul their early fragrance fling,</div> -<div>And, when the morning, with chill icy start,</div> -<div>Wakes me, hang blighted round my aching heart:</div> -<div>Oh night, and slumber, be ye visionless,</div> -<div>Dark as the grave, deep as forgetfulness!</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div><p class="center">* * * * *</p></div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div><p class="center">* * * * *</p></div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>Night, thou shalt nurse me, but be sure, good nurse,</div> -<div>While sitting by my bed, that thou art silent;</div> -<div>I will not let thee sing me to my slumbers</div> -<div>With the sweet lullabies of former times,</div> -<div>Nor tell me tales, as other gossips wont,</div> -<div>Of the strange fairy days, that are all gone.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 28th.</i></h3> - -<p>Skipped writing on Tuesday—so much the better—a miserable day spent -between heart-ach and side-ach.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Rose late, breakfasted with H——, afterwards went and sat on the -forecastle, where I worked the whole morning, woman's work, stitching. -It was intensely hot till about two o'clock, when a full east wind came -on, which the sailors all blessed, but which shook from its cold wings a -heavy, clammy, chilly dew, that presently pierced all our clothes, and -lay on the deck like rain. At dinner we were very near having a scene: -the Bostonian and the Jacksonite falling out again about the President; -and a sharp, quick, snapping conversation, which degenerated into a -snarl on one side, and a growl on the other, for a short time rather -damped the spirits of the table. Here, at least, General Jackson seems -very unpopular, and half the company echoed in earnest what I said in -jest to end the dispute, "Oh hang General Jackson!" After dinner, -returned to the forecastle with H—— to see the sun set; her brother -followed us thither.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p><p>Finished my work, and then, tying on sundry veils and handkerchiefs, -danced on deck for some time;—I then walked about with ——, by the -light of the prettiest young moon imaginable.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Afterwards sat working and stifling in the round-house till near ten, -and then, being no longer able to endure the heat, came down, undressed, -and sat luxuriously on the ground in my dressing-gown drinking lemonade. -At twelve went to bed; the men kept up a horrible row on deck half the -night; singing, dancing, whooping, and running over our heads.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The captain brought me to-day a land-swallow, which, having flown out so -far, came hovering exhausted over the ship, and suffered itself to be -caught. Poor little creature! how very much more I do love all things -than men and women! I felt sad to death for its weary little wings and -frightened heart, which beat against my hand, without its having -strength to struggle. I made a cage in a basket for it, and gave it some -seed, which it will not eat—little carnivorous wretch! I must catch -some flies for it.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 29th.</i></h3> - -<p>My poor little bird is dead. I am sorry! I could mourn almost as much -over the death of a soulless animal, as I would rejoice at that of a -brute with a soul. Life is to these winged things a pure enjoyment; and -to see the rapid pinions folded, and the bright eye filmed, conveys -sadness to the heart, for 'tis almost like looking on—what indeed is -not—utter cessation of existence. Poor little creature! I wished it had -not died—I would but have borne it tenderly and carefully to shore, and -given it back to the air again!</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I sat down stairs in my cabin all day; the very spirit of doggerel -possessed me, and I poured forth rhymes as rapidly as possible, and they -were as bad as possible.—Wrote journal; in looking over my papers, fell -in with the Star of Seville—some of it is very good. I'll write an -English tragedy next. Dined at table—our heroes have drunk wine, and -are amicable. After dinner, went on deck, and took a short walk; saw the -sun set, which he did like a god, as he is, leaving the sky like<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> a -geranium curtain, which overshadowed the sea with rosy light—beautiful! -Came down and sat on the floor like a Turkish woman, stitching, singing, -and talking, till midnight; supped—and to bed. My appetite seems like -the Danaïdes' tub, of credible memory.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 30th.</i></h3> - -<p>On soundings. A fog and a calm. Sky yellow, sea grey, dripping, damp, -dingy, dark, and very disagreeable. Sat working, reading, and talking in -our own cabin all day. Read part of a book called Adventures of a -Younger Son. The gentlemen amused themselves with fishing, and brought -up sundry hake and dog-fish. I examined the heart of one of the fish, -and was surprised at the long continuance of pulsation after the -cessation of existence. In the evening, sang, talked, and played French -blind man's buff;—sat working till near one o'clock, and reading -Moore's Fudge Family,—which is good fun. It's too hard to be becalmed -within thirty hours of our destination.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="i2">Why art thou weeping</div> -<div class="i2">Over the happy, happy dead,</div> -<div class="i2">Who are gone away</div> -<div class="i2">From this life of clay,</div> -<div class="i2">From this fount of tears,</div> -<div class="i2">From this burthen of years,</div> -<div class="i2">From sin, from sorrow,</div> -<div class="i2">From sad "to-morrow,"</div> -<div class="i2">From struggling and creeping:</div> -<div class="i2">Why art thou weeping,</div> -<div class="i2">Oh fool, for the dead?</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div class="i2">Why art thou weeping</div> -<div class="i2">Over the steadfast faithful dead,</div> -<div class="i2">Who can never change,</div> -<div class="i2">Nor grow cold and strange,</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div class="i2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>Nor turn away,</div> -<div class="i2">In a single day,</div> -<div class="i2">From the love they bore,</div> -<div class="i2">And the faith they swore;</div> -<div class="i2">Who are true for ever,</div> -<div class="i2">Will slight thee never,</div> -<div class="i2">But love thee still,</div> -<div class="i2">Through good and ill,</div> -<div class="i2">With the constancy</div> -<div class="i2">Of eternity:</div> -<div class="i2">Why art thou weeping,</div> -<div class="i2">Oh fool, for the dead?</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>They are your only friends;</div> -<div>For where this foul life ends,</div> -<div>Alone beginneth truth, and love, and faith;</div> -<div>All which sweet blossoms are preserved by death.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 31st.</i></h3> - -<p>Becalmed again till about two o'clock, when a fair wind sprang up, and -we set to rolling before it like mad. How curious it is to see the ship, -like a drunken man, reel through the waters, pursued by that shrill -scold the wind! Worked at my handkerchief, and read aloud to them Mrs. -Jameson's book.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Set my foot half into a discussion about Portia, but withdrew it in -time. Lord bless us! what foul nonsense people do talk, and what much -fouler nonsense it is to answer them. Got very sick, and lay on the -ground till dinner-time; went to table, but withdrew again while it was -yet in my power to do so gracefully. Lay on the floor all the evening, -singing for very sea-sickness; suddenly it occurred to me, that it was -our last Saturday night on board; whereupon I indited a song to the tune -of "To Ladies' eyes a round, boys,"—and having duly instructed Mr. —— -how to "speak the speech," we went to supper. <i>Last</i>—<i>last</i>—dear, what -is there in that word! I don't know one of this ship's company, don't -care for some of them—I have led a loathsome life in it for a month<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> -past, and yet the <i>last</i> Saturday night seemed half sad to me. Mr. —— -sang my song and kept my secret: the song was encored, and my father -innocently demanded the author; I gave him a tremendous pinch, and -looked very silly. Merit, like murder, will out; so I fancy that when -they drank the health of the author, the whole table was aware of the -genius that sat among them. They afterwards sang a clever parody of "To -all ye ladies now on land," by Mr. ——, the "canny Scot," who has kept -himself so quiet all the way. Came to bed at about half-past twelve: -while undressing, I heard the captain come down stairs, and announce -that we were clear of Nantucket shoal, and within one hundred and fifty -miles of New York, which intelligence was received with three cheers. -They continued to sing and shout till very late.</p> - -<p class="center">SATURDAY NIGHT SONG.</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>Come, fill the can again, boys,</div> -<div class="i1">One parting glass, one parting glass;</div> -<div>Ere we shall meet again, boys,</div> -<div class="i1">Long years may pass, long years may pass.</div> -<div>We'll drink the gallant bark, boys,</div> -<div class="i1">That's borne us through, that's borne us through,</div> -<div>Bright waves and billows dark, boys,</div> -<div class="i1">Our ship and crew, our ship and crew.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>We'll drink those eyes that bright, boys,</div> -<div class="i1">With smiling ray, with smiling ray,</div> -<div>Have shone like stars to light, boys,</div> -<div class="i1">Our watery way, our watery way.</div> -<div>We'll drink our English home, boys,</div> -<div class="i1">Our father land, our father land,</div> -<div>And the shores to which we're come, boys,</div> -<div class="i1">A sister strand, a sister strand.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, September 2d.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at half-past six: the sun was shining brilliantly; woke H—— and -went on deck with her. The morning was glorious, the sun had risen two -hours in the sky, the sea was cut by a strong breeze, and curled into -ridges that came like emerald banks crowned with golden spray round our -ship; she was going through the water at nine knots an hour. I sat and -watched the line of light that lay like a fairy road to the -east—towards my country, my dear dear home.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Breakfasted at table for the first time since I've been on board the -ship—I did hope, the last. After breakfast, put my things to rights, -tidied our cabin for prayers, and began looking out the lessons; while -doing so, the joyful sound, "Land, land!" was heard aloft. I rushed on -deck, and between the blue waveless sea, and the bright unclouded sky, -lay the wished-for line of darker element. 'Twas Long Island: through a -glass I descried the undulations of the coast, and even the trees that -stood relieved against the sky. Hail, strange land! my heart greets you -coldly and sadly! Oh, how I thought of Columbus, as with eyes strained -and on tiptoe our water-weary passengers stood, after a summer's sail of -thirty days, welcoming their mother earth! The day was heavenly, though -intensely hot, the sky utterly cloudless, and, by that same token, I do -not love a cloudless sky. They tell me that this is their American -weather almost till Christmas; that's nice, for those who like frying. -Commend me to dear England's soft, rich, sad, harmonious skies and -foliage—commend me to the misty curtain of silver vapour that hangs -over her September woods at morning, and shrouds them at night;—in -short, I am home-sick before touching land. After lunch, my father read -prayers to us, and that excellent sermon of dear Mr. Thurstone's on -taking the sacrament. After prayers, came on deck; there were two or -three sails in sight—hailed a schooner which passed us—bad news of the -cholera—pleasant this—walked about, collected goods and chattels, -wrote journal, spent some time in seeing a couple of geese take a -sea-swim with strings tied to their legs. After dinner, sat in my cabin -some time—walked on deck; when the gentlemen joined us, we danced the -sun<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> down, and the moon up. The sky was like the jewel-shop of angels; I -never saw such brilliant stars, nor so deep an azure to hang them in. -The moon was grown powerful, and flooded the deck, where we sat playing -at blind man's buff, magic music, and singing, and talking of shore till -midnight, when we came to bed. I must not forget how happy an omen -greeted us this morning. As we stood watching the "<i>dolce color di -oriental zaffiro</i>," one of the wild wood pigeons of America flew round -our mizen-mast, and alighted on the top-sail yard;—this was the first -living creature which welcomed us to the New World, and it pleased my -superstitious fancy. I would have given any thing to have caught the -bird, but, after resting itself awhile, it took flight again and left -us. We were talking to-day to one of our steerage passengers, a -Huddersfield manufacturer, going out in quest of a living, with five -children of his own to take care of, and two nephews. The father of the -latter, said our Yorkshireman, having married a second time, and these -poor children being as it were "<i>thristen</i> (thrust) out into the world -loike—whoy oi jist took care of them." Verily, verily, he will have his -reward—these tender mercies of the poor to one another are beautiful, -and most touching.</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, September 3d.</i></h3> - -<p>I had desired the mate to call me by sunrise, and accordingly, in the -midst of a very sound and satisfactory sleep, Mr. Curtis shook me -roughly by the arm, informing me that the sun was just about to rise. -The glorious god was quicker at his toilet than I at mine; for though I -did but put on a dressing-gown and cloak, I found him come out of his -eastern chamber, arrayed like a bridegroom, without a single beam -missing. I called H——, and we remained on deck watching the clouds -like visions of brightness and beauty, enchanted creations of some -strange spell-land—at every moment assuming more fantastic shapes and -gorgeous tints. Dark rocks seemed to rise, with dazzling summits of -light pale lakes of purest blue spread here and there between—the sun -now shining through a white wreath of floating silver, now firing, with -a splendour that the eye shrank from, the edges of some black cloudy -mass. Oh, it was surpassing!—We were becalmed, however, which rather -damped all our spirits, and half made the captain swear. Towards mid-day -we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> had to thank Heaven for an incident. A brig had been standing aft -against the horizon for some hours past, and we presently descried a -boat rowing from her towards us. The distance was some five miles, the -sun broiling; we telescoped and stood on tiptoe; they rowed stoutly, and -in due time boarded us. She was an English brig from Bristol, had been -out eleven weeks, distressed by contrary winds, and was in want of -provisions. The boat's crew was presently surrounded, grog was given the -men, porter to the captain and his companion. Our dear captain supplied -them with every thing they wanted, and our poor steerage passengers sent -their mite to the distressed crew in the shape of a sack of potatoes; -they remained half an hour on board, we clustering round them, -questioning and answering might and main. As H—— said, they were new -faces at least, and, though two of the most ill-favoured physiognomies I -ever set eyes on, there was something refreshing even in their ugly -novelty. After this the whole day was one of continual excitement, -nearing the various points of land, greeting vessels passing us, and -watching those bound on the same course. At about four o'clock a -schooner came alongside with a news-collector; he was half devoured with -queries; news of the cholera, reports of the tariff and bank questions, -were loudly demanded: poor people, how anxiously they looked for replies -to the first! Mr. ——, upon whose arm I leant, turned pale as death -while asking how it had visited Boston. Poor fellow! poor people all! my -heart ached with their anxiety. As the evening darkened, the horizon -became studded with sails; at about eight o'clock we discovered the -Highlands of Neversink, the entrance to New York harbour, and presently -the twin lights of Sandy Hook glimmered against the sky. We were all in -high spirits; a fresh breeze had sprung up, we were making rapidly to -land; the lovely ship, with all sail set, courtesying along the smooth -waters. The captain alone seemed anxious, and was eagerly looking out -for the pilot. Some had gathered to the ship's side, to watch the -progress of Colonel ——, who had left us and gone into the news-boat, -which was dancing like a fairy by the side of our dark vessel. Cheering -resounded on all sides, rockets were fired from the ship's stern, we -were all dancing, when suddenly a cry was echoed round of "A pilot, a -pilot!" and close under the ship's side a light graceful little schooner -shot like an arrow through the dim twilight, followed by a universal -huzza; she tacked, and lay to, but proved only a news-boat: while,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> -however, all were gathered round the collector, the pilot-boat came -alongside, and the pilot on board; the captain gave up the cares and -glories of command, and we danced an interminable country dance. All was -excitement and joyous confusion; poor Mr. —— alone seemed smitten with -sudden anxiety; the cholera reports had filled him with alarm, lest his -agent should have died, and his affairs on his arrival be in confusion -and ruin—poor fellow! I was very sorry for him. We went down to supper -at ten, and were very merry, in spite of the ship's bumping twice or -thrice upon the sands. Came up and dawdled upon deck—saw them cast -anchor; away went the chain, down dropped the heavy stay, the fair ship -swung round, and there lay New York before us, with its clustered lights -shining like a distant constellation against the dark outline of land. -Remained on deck till very late—were going to bed, when the gentlemen -entreated us to join their party once more; we did so, sang all the old -songs, laughed at all the old jokes, drank our own and each other's -health, wealth, and prosperity, and came to bed at two o'clock. Our -cradle rocks no longer, but lies still on the still waters; we have -reached our destination; I thank God! I did so with all my soul.</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, September 4th,<br /> -New York, America.</i></h3> - -<p>It is true, by my faith! it is true; there it is written, here I sit, I -am myself and no other, this is New York and nowhere else—Oh! -"singular, strange!" Our passengers were all stirring and about at peep -of day, and I got up myself at half past six. Trunks lay scattered in -every direction around, and all were busily preparing to leave the good -ship Pacific. Mercy on us! it made me sad to leave her and my shipmates. -I feel like a wretch swept down a river to the open sea, and catch at -the last boughs that hang over the banks to stay me from that wide -loneliness. The morning was real Manchester. I believe some of the -passengers had brought the fog and rain in their English clothes, which -they were all putting on, together with best hats, dandy cravats, -etc.—to make a <i>sensation</i>. A fog hung over the shores of Staten Island -and Long Island, in spite of which, and a dreary, heavy, thick rain, I -thought the hilly outline of the former very beautiful; the trees and -grass were rather<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> sunburnt, but in a fair spring day I should think it -must be lovely. We breakfasted, and packed ourselves into our shawls and -bonnets, and at half-past nine the steam-boat came alongside to take us -to shore: it was different from any English steam-boat I ever saw, -having three decks, and being consequently a vessel of very considerable -size. We got on board her all in the rain and misery, and, as we drifted -on, our passengers collected to the side of the boat, and gave "The dear -old Lady" three cheers. Poor ship! there she lay—all sails reefed, -rocking in melancholy inaction, deserted by her merry inmates, lonely -and idle—poor Pacific! I should like to return in that ship; I would -willingly skip a passage in order to do so. All were looking at the -shores; some wondering and admiring, others recognising through the rain -and mist, as best they might; I could not endure to lift my eyes to the -strange land, and, even had I done so, was crying too bitterly to see -any thing. Mr. —— and Mr. —— went to secure apartments for us at the -American Hotel; and, after bidding good-by to the sea, we packed -ourselves into a hackney coach, and progressed. The houses are almost -all painted glaring white or red; the other favourite colours appear to -be pale straw colour and grey. They have all green Venetian shutters, -which give an idea of coolness, and almost every house has a tree or -trees in its vicinity, which looks pretty and garden-like. We reached -our inn,—the gentlemen were waiting for us, and led us to our -drawing-room. I had been choking for the last three hours, and could -endure no more, but sobbed like a wretch aloud.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>There was a piano in the room, to which I flew with the appetite of one -who has lived on the music of the speaking-trumpet for a month; that, -and some iced lemonade and cake, presently restored my spirits. I went -on playing and singing till I was exhausted, and then sat down and wrote -journal. Mr. —— went out and got me Sir Humphry Davy's Salmonia, which -I had been desiring, and he had been speaking of on board ship.</p> - -<p>At five o'clock we all met once more together to dinner. Our -drawing-room being large and pleasant, the table was laid in it. 'Tis -curious how an acquaintanceship of thirty days has contrived to bind -together in one common feeling of kindness and good-fellowship persons -who never met before, who may never meet again. To-morrow we all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> -separate, to betake ourselves each to our several path; and, as if loath -to part company, they all agreed to meet once more on the eve of doing -so, probably for ever. How strongly this clinging principle is inherent -in our nature! These men have no fine sympathies of artificial creation, -and this exhibition of <i>adhesiveness</i> is in them a real and heart-sprung -feeling. It touched me—indeed it may well do so; for friends of thirty -days are better than utter strangers, and when these my shipmates shall -be scattered abroad, there will be no human being left near us whose -face we know, or whose voice is familiar to us. Our dinner was a -favourable specimen of eating as practised in this new world; every -thing good, only in too great a profusion; the wine drinkable, and the -fruit beautiful to look at: in point of flavour it was infinitely -inferior to English hothouse fruit, or even fine espalier fruit raised -in a good aspect. Every thing was wrapped in ice, which is a most -luxurious necessary in this hot climate; but the things were put on the -table in a slovenly outlandish fashion; fish, soup, and meat, at once, -and puddings, and tarts, and cheese, at another once; no finger-glasses, -and a patched table-cloth,—in short, a want of that style and neatness -which is found in every hotel in England. The waiters, too, reminded us -of the half-savage Highland lads that used to torment us under that -denomination in Glasgow—only that they were wild Irish instead of wild -Scotch. The day had cleared, and become intensely hot, towards evening -softening and cooling under the serene influences of the loveliest moon -imaginable. The streets were brilliantly lighted, the shops through the -trees, and the people parading between them, reminded me very much of -the Boulevards. We left the gentlemen, and went down stairs, where I -played and sang for three hours. On opening the door, I found a junta of -men sitting on the hall floor, round it, and smoking. Came up for -coffee; most of the gentlemen were rather elated,—we sang, and danced, -and talked, and seemed exceeding loath to say good-by. I sat listening -to the dear Doctor's theory of the nature of the soul, which savoured -infinitely more of the spirituality of the bottle than of immaterial -existences. I heard him descant very tipsily upon the vital principle, -until my fatigue getting fairly the better of my affection for him, I -bade our remaining guests good night, and came to bed.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 5th.</i></h3> - -<p>I have been in a sulky fit half the day, because people will keep -walking in and out of our room, without leave or license, which is -coming a great deal too soon to Hope's idea of Heaven. I am delighted to -see my friends, but I like to tell them so, and not that they should -take it for granted. When I made my appearance in my dressing-gown (my -clothes not being come, and the day too hot for a silk pelisse), great -was my amazement to find our whole ship's company assembled at the -table. After breakfast they dispersed, and I sat writing journal, and -playing, and singing. Colonel —— and Mr. —— called. Our Boston -friends leave us to-day for their homes. I am sorry to lose them, though -I think H—— will be the better for rest. Mrs. —— called to see D—— -to-day. I remember her name, as one of the first things I do remember. A -visit from a Mr. ——, one of the directors of the Custom-House, and -W—— P——, brother to the proprietor of the Park theatre, who is a -lawyer of considerable reputation here. The face of the first was good, -the other's clever. I said nothing, as usual, and let them depart in -peace. We dined at half-past two, with the H——s and Mr. ——. At -half-past three we walked down to the quay to convoy them to their -steam-boat, which looked indeed like a "castle on the main." We saw them -on board, went down and looked at the state cabin, which was a -magnificent room, and would have done charmingly for a gallopade. We -bade our new friends, whom I like better than some old ones, good-by, -and walked briskly on to the Battery, to see them as they passed it. The -sun was intensely hot; and as I struggled forward, hooked up to this -young Sheffield giant, I thought we were the living illustration of -Hood's "Long and Short" of it. We gained the battery, and saw the -steam-boat round; our travellers kept the deck with "hat and glove and -handkerchief," as long as we could see them. This Battery is a beautiful -marine parade, commanding the harbour and entrance of the bay, with -Governor's Island, and its dusky red fort, and the woody shores of New -Jersey and Long Island. A sort of public promenade, formed of grass -plots, planted with a variety of trees, affords a very agreeable -position from whence to enjoy the lovely view. My companion informed me -that this was a fashionable resort<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> some time ago; but owing to its -being frequented by the lowest and dirtiest of the rabble, who in this -land of liberty roll themselves on the grass, and otherwise annoy the -more respectable portion of the promenaders, it has been much deserted -lately, and is now only traversed by the higher classes as a -thoroughfare. The trees and grass were vividly and luxuriantly green; -but the latter grew rank and long, unshorn and untidy. "Oh," thought I, -"for a pair of English shears, to make these green carpets as smooth and -soft and thick as the close-piled Genoa velvet." It looked neglected and -slovenly. Came home up Broadway, which is a long street of tolerable -width, full of shops, in short the American Oxford Road, where all -people go to exhibit themselves and examine others. The women that I -have seen hitherto have all been very gaily dressed, with a pretension -to French style, and a more than English exaggeration of it. They all -appear to me to walk with a French shuffle, which, as their pavements -are flat, I can only account for by their wearing shoes made in the -French fashion, which are enough in themselves to make a waddler of the -best walker that ever set foot to earth. Two or three were pretty girls; -but the town being quite empty, these are probably bad specimens of the -graces and charms that adorn Broadway in its season of shining. Came -home and had tea; after which my father, I, and Mr. —— crossed the -Park (a small bit of grass enclosed in white palings, in plain English, -a green) to the theatre. Wallack was to act in the Rent Day. Mercy, how -strange I felt as I once more set foot in a theatre; the sound of the -applause set my teeth on edge. The house is pretty, though rather -gloomy, well formed, about the size of the Haymarket, with plenty of -gold carving, and red silk about it, looking rich and warm. The audience -was considerable, but all men; scarce, I should think, twenty women in -the dress circle, where, by the by, as well as in the private boxes, I -saw men sitting with their hats on. The Rent Day is a thorough -melodrama, only the German monster has put on a red waistcoat and top -boots. Nathless this is a good thing of a bad sort: the incidents, -though not all probable, or even as skilfully tacked together as they -might be, are striking and dramatically effective, and the whole piece -turns on those home feelings, those bitterest realities of every-day -life, that wring one's heart, beyond the pain that one allows works of -fiction to excite. As for the imitation of Wilkie's pictures, the first -was very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> pretty, but the second I did not see, my face being buried in -my handkerchief, besides having a quarter less seven fathom of tears -over it, at the time. I cried most bitterly during the whole piece; for -as in his very first scene Wallack asks his wife if she will go with him -to America, and she replies, "What! leave the farm?" I set off from -thence and ceased no more. The manager's wife and another woman were in -the box, which was his, and I thought we should have carried away the -front of it with our tears. Wallack played admirably: I had never seen -him before, and was greatly delighted with his acting. I thought him -handsome of a rustic kind, the very thing for the part he played, a fine -English yeoman: he reminded me of ——. At the end of the play, came -home with a tremendous headach: sat gossiping and drinking lemonade. -Presently a tap at the door came, and through the door came Mr. ——. I -shook hands with him, and began expatiating on the impertinence of -people's not enquiring down stairs whether we were at home or not before -they came up—I don't believe he took my idea. Mr. —— came in to bid -us good-by: he starts to-morrow for Baltimore. He is a nice -good-tempered young Irishman, with more tongue than brains, but still -clever enough: I am sorry he is going. Came to bed-room at eleven, -remained up till one, unpacking goods and chattels. Mercy on me, what a -cargo it is! They have treated us like ambassadors, and not one of our -one-and-twenty huge boxes have been touched.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 6th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight. After breakfast, began writing to my brother; while doing -so they brought up Captain ——'s and Mr. ——'s cards. I was delighted -to see our dear Captain again, who, in spite of his glorious slip-slop, -is a glorious fellow. They sat some time. Colonel —— called—he walks -my father off his legs. When they were all gone, finished letter and -wrote journal. Unpacked and sorted things. Opened with a trembling heart -my bonnet-box, and found my precious <i>Dévy</i> squeezed to a crush—I -pulled it out, rebowed, and reblonded, and reflowered it, and now it -looks good enough "pour les <i>tha</i>uvages, mam<i>the</i>lle Fannie." Worked at -my muslin gown; in short, did a deal. A cheating German woman came here -this morning with some bewitching canezous and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> pelerines: I chose two -that I wanted, and one very pretty one that I didn't; but as she asked a -heathen price for 'em, I took only the former;—dear good little me!<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> -We dined at five. After dinner, sang and played to my father, "all by -the light of the moon." The evening was, as the day had been, lovely; -and as I stood by his side near the open window, and saw him inhaling -the pure fresh air, which he said invigorated and revived him, and heard -him exclaim upon the beauty of our surroundings, half of my regret for -this exile melted away.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>He said to me, "Is there not reason to be grateful to God, when we look -at these fair things?"—and indeed, indeed, there is: yet these things -are not to me what they were. He told me that he had begun a song on -board ship for the last Saturday night, but that, not feeling well, he -had given it up, but the very same ideas I had made use of had occurred -to him.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>This is not surprising; the ideas were so obvious that there was no -escaping them. My father is ten years younger since he came here, -already.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Colonel —— came in after tea, and took my father off to the Bowery -theatre. I remained with D——, singing and stitching, and gossiping -till twelve o'clock. My father has been introduced to half the town, and -tells me that far from the democratic <i>Mister</i>, which he expected to be -every man's title here, he had made the acquaintance of a score of -municipal dignitaries, and some sixty colonels and major generals—of -militia. Their omnibuses are vehicles of rank, and the <i>Ladies</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> -Washington, Clinton, and Van Rensalear,<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> rattle their crazy bones -along the pavement for all the world like any other old women of -quality.</p> - -<p>These democrats are as title-sick as a banker's wife in England. My -father told me to-day, that Mr. ——, talking about the state of the -country, spoke of the lower orders finding their level: now this -enchants me, because a republic is a natural anomaly; there is nothing -republican in the construction of the material universe; there be -highlands and lowlands, lordly mountains as barren as any aristocracy, -and lowly valleys as productive as any labouring classes. The feeling of -rank, of inequality, is inherent in us, a part of the veneration of our -natures; and like most of our properties seldom finds its right -channels—in place of which it has created artificial ones suited to the -frame of society into which the civilised world has formed itself. I -believe in my heart that a republic is the noblest, highest, and purest -form of government; but I believe that, according to the present -disposition of human creatures, 'tis a mere beau ideal, totally -incapable of realisation. What the world may be fit for six hundred -years hence, I cannot exactly perceive; but in the mean time, 'tis my -conviction that America will be a monarchy before I am a skeleton.</p> - -<p>One of the curses of living at an inn in this unceremonious land:—Dr. -—— walked in this evening accompanied by a gentleman, whom he -forthwith introduced to us. I behaved very <i>ill</i>, as I always do on -these occasions; but 'tis an impertinence, and I shall take good care to -certify such to be my opinion of these free-and-easy proceedings. The -man had a silly manner, but he may be a genius for all that. He abused -General Jackson, and said the cholera was owing to his presidency; for -that Clay had predicted that when he came into power, battle, -pestilence, and famine, would come upon the land: which prophecy finds -its accomplishment thus: they have had a war with the Indians, the -cholera has raged, and the people, flying from the infected cities to -the country, have eaten half the farmers out of house and home. This -hotel reminds me most extremely of our "iligant" and untidy apartments -in dear nasty Dublin, at the Shelbourne. The paper in our bed-room is -half<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> peeling from the walls, our beds are without curtains: then to be -sure there are pier looking-glasses, and one or two pieces of showy -French furniture in it. 'Tis customary, too, here, I find, for men to -sleep three or four in a room: conceive an Englishman shown into a -dormitory for half-a-dozen! I can't think how they endure it; but, -however, I have a fever at all those things. My father asked me, this -evening, to write a sonnet about the wild pigeons welcoming us to -America; I had thought of it with scribbling intent before, but he wants -me to get it up here, and that sickened me.</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 7th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight: after breakfast tidied my dressing-box, mended and tucked -my white muslin gown—wrote journal: while doing so, Colonel —— came -to take leave of us for a few days: he is going to join his wife in the -country. Mr. —— called and remained some time; while he was here, the -waiter brought me word that a Mr. —— wanted to see me. I sent word -down that my father was out, knowing no such person, and supposing the -waiter had mistaken whom he asked for; but the gentleman persisted in -seeing me, and presently in walked a good-looking elderly man, who -introduced himself as Mr. ——, to whom my father had letters of -introduction. He sat himself down, and pottered a little, and then went -away. When he was gone, Mr. —— informed me that this was one of <i>the</i> -men of New York, in point of wealth, influence, and consideration. He -had been a great auctioneer, but had retired from business, having, -among his other honours, filled the office of Mayor of New York. My -father and Mr. —— went to put our letters in the post: I practised and -needle-worked till dinner-time; after dinner, as I stood at the window -looking at the lovely sky and the brilliant earth, a curious effect of -light struck me. Within a hundred yards of each other, the Town-Hall -lay, with its white walls glowing in the sunset, while the tall grey -church-steeple was turning pale in the clear moonlight. That Town Hall -is a white-washed anomaly, and yet its effect is not altogether bad. I -took a bath at the house behind it, which is very conveniently arranged -for that purpose, with a French sort of gallery, all papered with the -story of Psyche in lead-coloured paper, that reminded me of the doughy -immortals I used to admire so much, at the inns at Abbeville and -Montreuil. The house was kept by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> a foreigner—I knew it. My father -proposed to us a walk, and we accordingly sallied forth. We walked to -the end of Broadway, a distance of two miles, I should think, and then -back again. The evening was most lovely. The moon was lighting the whole -upper sky, but every now and then, as we crossed the streets that led to -the river, we caught glimpses of the water, and woody banks, and the sky -that hung over them; which all were of that deep orange tint, that I -never saw but in Claude's pictures. After walking nearly a mile up -Broadway, we came to Canal Street: it is broader and finer than any I -have yet seen in New York; and at one end of it, a Christian church, -copied from some Pagan temple or other, looked exceedingly well, in the -full flood of silver light that streamed from heaven. There were many -temptations to look around, but the flags were so horribly broken and -out of order, that to do so was to run the risk of breaking one's -neck:—this is very bad.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> The street was very much thronged, and I -thought the crowd a more civil and orderly one than an English crowd. -The men did not jostle or push one another, or tread upon one's feet, or -kick down one's shoe heels, or crush one's bonnet into one's face, or -turn it round upon one's head, all which I have seen done in London -streets. There is this to be said: this crowd was abroad merely for -pleasure, sauntering along, which is a thing never seen in London; the -proportion of idle loungers who frequent the streets there being very -inconsiderable, when compared with the number of people going on -business through the town. I observed that the young men to-night -invariably made room for women to pass, and many of them, as they drew -near us, took the cigar from their mouth, which I thought especially -courteous.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> They were all smoking, to a man, except those who were -spitting, which helped to remind me of Paris, to which the whole place -bore a slight resemblance. The shops appear to me to make no show -whatever, and will not bear a comparison with the brilliant display of -the Parisian streets, or the rich magnificence of our own, in that -respect. The women dress very much, and very much like French women gone -mad; they all of them seem to me to walk horribly ill, as if they wore -tight shoes. Came in rather tired, took tea, sang an immensity, wrote -journal, looked at the peerless moon, and now will go to bed.</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday 8th.</i></h3> - -<p>Stitching the whole blessed day; and as I have now no maid to look after -them, my clothes run some chance of being decently taken care of, and -kept in order. Mr. —— and his daughter called; I like him; he appears -very intelligent; and the expression of his countenance is clever and -agreeable. His daughter was dressed up in French clothes, and looked -very stiff; but, however, a first visit is an awkward thing, and nothing -that isn't thorough-bred ever does it quite well. When they were gone, -Mr. —— called. By the by, of Mr. ——, while he was speaking, he came -to the word <i>calculate</i>, and stopping half way, substituted another for -it, which made me laugh internally. Mercy on me! how sore all these -people are about Mrs. Trollope's book, and how glad I am I did not read -it. She must have spoken the truth though, for lies do not rankle so.</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>"Qui ne nous touche point ne nous fait pas rougir."</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>Worked till dinner-time. —— dined with us: what a handsome man he is; -but oh, what a within-and-without actor! I wonder whether I carry such a -brand in every limb and look of me; if I thought so, I'd strangle -myself. An actor shall be self-convicted, in five hundred. There is a -ceaseless striving at effect, a straining after points in talking,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> and -a lamp and orange-peel twist in every action. How odious it is to me! -Absolute and unmitigated vulgarity I can put up with, and welcome; but -good Heaven defend me from the genteel version of vulgarity! to see -which in perfection, a country actor, particularly if he is also -manager, and sees occasionally people who bespeak plays, is your best -occasion. My dear father, who was a little elated, made me sing to him, -which I greatly gulped at. When he was gone, went on playing and -singing. Wrote journal, and now to bed. I'm dead of the side-ach.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 9th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight. While I was dressing, D—— went out of the room, and -presently I heard sundry exclamations: "Good God, is it you! How are -you? How have you been?" I opened the door, and saw my uncle.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>After breakfast, went to church with my father: on our way thither-ward -met the Doctor, and the Doctor's friend, and Mr. ——, to whom I have -taken an especial fancy. The church we went to is situated half way -between the Battery and our hotel. It is like a chapel in the exterior, -being quite plain, and standing close in among the houses; the interior -was large and perfectly simple. The town is filling, and the church was -well attended. 'Tis long since I have heard the church service so well -read; with so few vices of pronunciation, or vulgarisms of emphasis. Our -own clergy are shamefully negligent in this point; and if Chesterfield's -maxim be a good one in all cases, which it is, surely in the matter of -the service of God's house 'tis doubly so; they lose an immense -advantage, too, by their slovenly and careless way of delivering the -prayers, which are in themselves so beautiful, so eloquent, so full of -the very spirit of devotion; that whereas, now, a congregation seems but -to follow their leader, in gabbling them over as they do, were they -solemnly, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>devoutly, and impressively read, many would feel and -understand, what they now repeat mechanically, without attaching one -idea to the words they utter. There was no clerk to assist in the -service, and the congregation were as neglectful of the directions in -the prayer-book, and as indolent and remiss in uttering the responses, -as they are in our own churches; indeed, the absence of the clerk made -the inaudibility of the congregation's portion of the service more -palpable than it is with us. The organ and chanting were very good; -infinitely superior to the performances of those blessed little parish -cherubim, who monopolise the praises of God in our churches, so much to -the suffering of all good Christians not favoured with deafness. The -service is a little altered—all prayers for our King, Queen, House of -Lords, Parliament, etc., of course omitted: in lieu of which, they pray -for the President and all existing authorities. Sundry repetitions of -the Lord's Prayer, and other passages, were left out; they correct our -English, too, substituting the more modern phraseology of <i>those</i>, for -the dear old-fashioned <i>them</i>, which our prayer-book uses: as, "spare -thou <i>those</i>, O God," instead of "spare thou <i>them</i>, O God, which -confess their faults." Wherever the word wealth occurs, too, these -zealous purists, connecting that word with no idea but dollars and -cents, have replaced it by a term more acceptable to their -comprehension,—prosperity,—therefore they say, "In all time of our -prosperity (<i>i. e.</i> wealth), in all time of our tribulation," etc. I -wonder how these gentlemen interpret the word commonwealth, or whether, -in the course of their reading, they ever met with the word deprived of -the final <i>th</i>; and if so, what they imagined it meant.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> Our prayers -were desired for some one putting out to sea; and a very touching -supplication to that effect was read, in which I joined with all my -heart. The sermon would have been good, if it had been squeezed into -half the compass it occupied; it was upon the subject of the late -terrible visitations with which God has tried the world, and was -sensibly and well delivered, only it had "damnable iteration." The day -was like an oven; after church, came home. Mr. —— called,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> also Mr. -——, the Boston manager, who is longer than any human being I ever saw. -Presently after, a visit from "his honour the Recorder," a twaddling old -lawyer by the name of ——, and a silent young gentleman, his son. They -were very droll. The lawyer talked the most; at every half sentence, -however, quoting, complimenting, or appealing to "his honour the -Recorder," a little, good-tempered, turnippy-looking man, who called me -a female; and who, the other assured me, was the <i>Chesterfieldian</i> of -New York (I don't know precisely what that means): what fun! Again I had -an opportunity of perceiving how thorough a chimera the equality is, -that we talk of as American. "There's no such thing," with a vengeance! -Here they were, talking of their aristocracy and democracy; and I'm -sure, if nothing else bore testimony to the inherent love of <i>higher -things</i> which I believe exists in every human creature, the way in which -the lawyer dwelt upon the Duke of Montrose, lo whom, in Scotch kindred, -he is allied at the distance of some miles, and Lady Loughborough, whom -Heaven knows how he got hold of, would have satisfied me, that a my -Lord, or my Lady, are just as precious in the eyes of these levellers, -as in those of Lord and Lady-loving John Bull himself. They staid -pottering a long time. One thing his "honour the Recorder" told me, -which I wish lo remember: that the only way of preserving universal -suffrage from becoming the worst of abuses, was of course to educate the -people,<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> for which purpose a provision is made by government. Thus: a -grant of land is given, the revenue of which being estimated, the -population of the State are taxed to precisely the same amount; thus -furnishing, between the government and the people,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> an equal sum for the -education of all classes.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> I do nothing but look out of window all the -blessed day long: I did not think in my old age to acquire so Jezebel a -trick; but the park (as they entitle the green opposite our windows) is -so very pretty, and the streets so gay, with their throngs of -smartly-dressed women, and so amusing with their abundant proportion of -black and white caricatures, that I find my window the most entertaining -station in the world. Read Salmonia: the natural-history part of it is -curious and interesting; but the local descriptions are beyond measure -tantalising; and the "bites," five thousand times more so. Our -ship-mate, Mr. ——, called: I was glad to see him. Poor man! how we did -<i>reel</i> him off his legs to be sure,—what fun it was! My father dined -out: D—— and I dined <i>tête-à-tête</i>. Poor D—— has not been well -to-day: she is dreadfully bitten by the musquitoes, which, I thank their -discrimination, have a thorough contempt for me, and have not come near -me: the only things that bother me are little black ants, which I find -in my wash-hand basin, and running about in all directions. I think the -quantity of fruit brings them into the houses. After dinner, sat looking -at the blacks parading up and down; most of them in the height of the -fashion, with every colour in the rainbow about them. Several of the -black women I saw pass had very fine figures (the women here appear to -me to be remarkably small, my own being, I should think, the average -height); but the contrast of a bright blue or pink crape bonnet, with -the black face, white teeth, and glaring blue whites of the eyes, is -beyond description grotesque. The carriages here are all, to my taste, -very ugly; hung very high from the ground, and of all manner of ungainly -old-fashioned shapes. Now this is where, I think, the Americans are to -be quarrelled with: they are beginning at a time when all other nations -are arrived at the highest point of perfection, in all matters conducive -to the comfort and elegance of life: they go into these countries; into -France, into our own dear little snuggery, from whence<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> they might bring -models of whatever was most excellent, and give them to their own -manufacturers, to imitate or improve upon. When I see these awkward -uncomfortable vehicles swinging through the streets, and think of the -beauty, the comfort, the strength, and lightness of our English-built -carriages and cabs, I am much surprised at the want of emulation and -enterprise, which can be satisfied with inferiority, when equality, if -not superiority, would be so easy.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> At seven o'clock, D—— and I -walked out together. The evening was very beautiful, and we walked as -far as Canal Street and back. During our promenade, two fire-engines -passed us, attended by the usual retinue of shouting children; this is -about the sixth fire since yesterday evening. They are so frequent here, -that the cry "Fire, fire!" seems to excite neither alarm nor curiosity, -and except the above-mentioned pains-taking juveniles, none of the -inhabitants seem in the least disturbed by it.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> We prosecuted our -walk down to the Battery, but just as we reached it we had to return, as -'twas tea-time. I was sorry: the whole scene was most lovely. The moon -shone full upon the trees and intersecting walks of the promenade, and -threw a bright belt of silver along the water's edge. The fresh night -wind came over the broad estuary, rippling it, and stirring the boughs -with its delicious breath. A building, which was once a fort from whence -the Americans fired upon our ships, is now turned into a sort of <i>café</i>, -and was brilliantly lighted with coloured lamps, shining among the -trees, and reflected in the water. The whole effect was pretty, and very -Parisian. We came<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> home, and had tea, after which Mr. —— came in. He -told us, that we must not walk alone at night, for that we might get -spoken to; and that a friend of his, seeing us go out without a man, had -followed us the whole way, in order to see that nothing happened to us: -this was very civil. Played and sang, and strove to make that stupid lad -sing, but he was shy, and would not open his mouth even the accustomed -hair's-breadth. At about eleven he went away; and we came to bed at twelve.</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 10th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight. After breakfast wrote journal, and practised for an hour. -—— called. I remember taking a great fancy to him about eight years -ago, when I was a little girl in Paris; but, mercy, how he is aged! I -wonder whether I am beginning to look old yet, for it seems to me that -all the world's in wrinkles. My father went out with him. Read a canto -in Dante; also read through a volume of Bryant's poetry, which Mr. —— -had lent us, to introduce us to the American Parnassus. I liked a great -deal of it very well; and I liked the pervading spirit of it much more, -which appears to me hopeful and bright, and what the spirit of a poet -should be; for in spite of all De Staël's sayings, and Byron's doings, I -hold that melancholy is <i>not</i> essentially the nature of a poet. Though -instances may be adduced of great poets whose Helicon has been but a -bitter well of tears, yet, in itself, the spirit of poetry appears to me -to be too strong, too bright, too full of the elements of beauty and of -excellence, too full of God's own nature, to be dark or desponding; and -though from the very fineness of his mental constitution a poet shall -suffer more intensely from the baseness and the bitterness which are the -leaven of life, yet he, of all men, the most possesses the power to -discover truth, and beauty, and goodness, where they do exist; and where -they exist not, to create them. If the clouds of existence are darker, -its sunshine is also brighter to him; and while others, less gifted, -lose themselves in the labyrinth of life, his spirit should throw light -upon the darkness, and he should walk in peace and faith over the stormy -waters, and through the uncertain night; standing as 'twere above the -earth, he views with clearer eyes its mysteries; he finds in apparent -discord glorious harmony, and to him the sum of all is good; for, in -God's works, good still abounds to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> the subjection of evil. 'Tis this -trustful spirit that seems to inspire Bryant, and to me, therefore, his -poetry appears essentially good. There is not much originality in it. I -scarce think there can be, in poems so entirely descriptive: his -descriptions are very beautiful, but there is some sameness in them, and -he does not escape self-repetition; but I am a bad critic, for which I -thank God! I know the tears rolled down my cheeks more than once as I -read; I know that agreeable sensations and good thoughts were suggested -by what I read; I thought some of it beautiful, and all of it wholesome -(in contradistinction to the literature of this age), and I was well -pleased with it altogether. Afterwards read a sort of satirical -burlesque, called "Fanny," by Hallek: the wit being chiefly confined to -local allusions and descriptions of New York manners, I could not derive -much amusement from it.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>When my father came home, went with him to call on Mrs. ——. What I saw -of the house appeared to me very pretty, and well adapted to the heat of -the season. A large and lofty room, paved with India matting, and -furnished with white divans, and chairs, no other furniture encumbering -or cramming it up; it looked very airy and cool. Our hostess did not put -herself much out of the way to entertain us, but after the first "how do -you do," continued conversing with another visiter, leaving us to the -mercy of a very pretty young lady, who carried on the conversation at an -average of a word every three minutes. Neither Mr. —— nor his eldest -daughter were at home; the latter, however, presently came in, and -relieved her sister and me greatly. We sat the proper time, and then -came away.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>This is a species of intercourse I love not any where. I never practised -it in my own blessed land, neither will I here. We dined at six: after -dinner played and sang till eight, and then walked out with D—— and my -father, by the most brilliant moonlight in the world. We went down to -the Battery; the aquatic Vauxhall was lighted up very gaily, and they -were sending up rockets every few minutes, which, shooting athwart the -sky, threw a bright stream of light over the water, and, falling back in -showers of red stars, seemed to sink away before the steadfast shining -of the moon, who held high supremacy in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> heaven. The bay lay like molten -silver under her light, and every now and then a tiny skiff, emerging -from the shade, crossed the bright waters, its dark hull and white sails -relieved between the shining sea and radiant sky. Came home at nine, -tea'd and sat embroidering till twelve o'clock, industrious little me.</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 11th.</i></h3> - -<p>This day week we landed in New York; and this day was its prototype, -rainy, dull, and dreary; with occasional fits of sunshine, and light -delicious air, as capricious as a fine lady. After breakfast, Colonel -—— called. Wrote journal, and practised till one o'clock. My father -then set off with Colonel —— for Hoboken, a place across the water, -famous once for duelling, but now the favourite resort of a -turtle-eating club, who go there every Tuesday to cook and swallow -turtle. The day was as bad as a party of pleasure could expect, (and -when were their expectations of bad weather disappointed?) nathless, my -father, at the Colonel's instigation, <i>persevered</i>, and went forth, -leaving me his card of invitation, which made me scream for half an -hour; the wording as follows:—"Sir, the Hoboken Turtle Club will meet -at the grove, for <i>spoon exercise</i>, on Tuesday, the 11th inst., by order -of the President." Mr. —— and the Doctor paid us a visit of some -length.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>When they were gone, read a canto in Dante, and sketched till four -o'clock. I wish I could make myself draw. I want to do every thing in -the world that can be done, and, by the by, that reminds me of my -German, which I must <i>persecute</i>. At four o'clock sent for a -hair-dresser, that I might in good time see that I am not made an object -on my first night. He was a Frenchman, and after listening profoundly to -my description of the head-dress I wanted, replied, as none but a -Frenchman could, "<i>Madame, la difficulté n'est pas d'exécuter votre -coiffure, mais de la bien concevoir</i>." However, he conceived and -executed sundry very smooth-looking bows, and, upon the whole, dressed -my hair very nicely, but charged a dollar for so doing; O nefarious! -D—— and I dined <i>tête-à-tête</i>; the evening was sulky—I was in -miserable spirits.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Sat working till my father came home, which he did at about half<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> past -six. His account of his dinner was any thing but delightful; to be sure -he has no taste for rainy ruralities, and his feeling description of the -damp ground, damp trees, damp clothes, and damp atmosphere, gave me the -<i>rheumatiz</i>, letting alone that they had nothing to eat but turtle, and -that out of iron spoons.—"Ah, you vill go a pleasuring."</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>He had a cold before, and I fear this will make him very ill. He went -like wisdom to take a vapour bath directly. —— came, and sat with us -till he returned. Had tea at eight, and embroidered till midnight. The -wind is rioting over the earth. I should like to see the Hudson now. The -black clouds, like masses of dark hair, are driven over the moon's pale -face; the red lights and fire engines are dancing up and down; the -streets, the church bells are all tolling—'tis sad and strange.</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>'Tis all in vain, it may not last,</div> -<div>The sickly sunlight dies away,</div> -<div>And the thick clouds that veil the past</div> -<div>Roll darkly o'er my present day.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>Have I not flung them off, and striven</div> -<div>To seek some dawning hope in vain?</div> -<div>Have I not been for ever driven</div> -<div>Back to the bitter past again?</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>What though a brighter sky bends o'er</div> -<div>Scenes where no former image greets me?</div> -<div>Though lost in paths untrod before,</div> -<div>Here, even here, pale Memory meets me.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>Oh life—oh blighted bloomless tree!</div> -<div>Why cling thy fibres to the earth?</div> -<div>Summer can bring no flower to thee,</div> -<div>Autumn no bearing, spring no birth.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>Bid me not strive, I'll strive no more,</div> -<div>To win from pain my joyless breast;</div> -<div>Sorrow has plough'd too deeply o'er</div> -<div>Life's Eden—let it take the rest!</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 12th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight. After breakfast, heard my father say Hamlet. How -beautiful his whole conception of that part is! and yet it is but an -actor's conception too.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I am surprised at any body's ever questioning the real madness of -Hamlet: I know but one passage in the play which tells against it, and -there are a thousand that go to prove it. But leaving all isolated parts -out of the question, the entire colour of the character is the proper -ground from which to draw the right deduction. Gloomy, desponding, -ambitious, and disappointed in his ambition, full of sorrow for a dead -father, of shame for a living mother, of indignation for his ill-filled -inheritance, of impatience at his own dependent position; of a -thoughtful, doubtful, questioning spirit, looking with timid boldness -from the riddles of earth and life, to those of death and the mysterious -land beyond it; weary of existence upon its very threshold, and withheld -alone from self-destruction by religious awe, and that pervading -uncertainty of mind which stands on the brink, brooding over the unseen -may-be of another world; in love, moreover, and sad and dreamy in his -affection, as in every other sentiment; for there is not enough of -absolute passion in his love to make it a powerful and engrossing -interest; had it been such, the entireness and truth of Hamlet's -character would have been destroyed. 'Tis love indeed, but a pulseless -powerless love; gentle, refined, and tender, but without ardour or -energy; such are the various elements of Hamlet's character, at the very -beginning of the play: then see what follows. A frightful and unnatural -visitation from the dead; a horrible and sudden revelation of the murder -of the father for whom his soul is in mourning; thence burning hatred -and thirst of vengeance against his uncle; double loathing of his -mother's frailty; above all, that heaviest burden that a human creature -can have put upon him, an imperative duty calling for fulfilment, and a -want of resolution and activity to meet the demand; thence an unceasing -struggle between the sluggish nature and the upbraiding soul; an eternal -self-spurring and self-accusing: from which mental conflict, alone -sufficient to unseat a stronger mind, he finds relief in fits of -desponding musing, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> exhaustion of overwrought powers. Then comes the -vigilant and circumspect guard he is forced to keep upon every word, -look, and action, lest they reveal his terrible secret; the suspicion -and mistrust of all that surround him, authorised by his knowledge of -his uncle's nature: his constant watchfulness over the spies that are -set to watch him; then come, in the course of events, Polonius's death, -the unintentional work of his own sword, the second apparition of his -father's ghost, his banishment to England, still haunted by his -treacherous friends, the miserable death of poor Ophelia, together with -the unexpected manner of his first hearing of it—if all these—the -man's own nature, sad and desponding—his educated nature (at a German -university), reasoning and metaphysical—and the nature he acquires from -the tutelage of events, bitter, dark, amazed, and uncertain; if these do -not make up as complete a madman as ever walked between heaven and -earth, I know not what does.<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> Wrote journal, and began to practise; -while doing so, —— called; he said that he was accompanied by some -friends who wished to see me, and were at the door. I've heard of men's -shutting the door in the face of a dun, and going out the back way to -escape a bailiff—but how to get rid of such an attack as this I knew -not, and was therefore fain to beg the gentlemen would walk in, and -accordingly in they walked, four as fine-grown men as you would wish to -see on a summer's day. I was introduced to this regiment man by man, and -thought, as my Sheffield friend would say, "If <i>them</i> be American -manners, defend me from them." They are traders, to be sure; but I never -heard of such wholesale introduction in my life. They sat a little -while, behaved very like Christians, and then departed. Captain —— and -—— called,—the former to ask us to come down and see the Pacific, -poor old lady! When they were gone, practised, read a canto in Dante, -and translated verbatim a German fable, which kept me till dinner-time.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> -After dinner, walked out towards the Battery. —— joined us. It was -between sunset and moonrise, and a lovelier light never lay upon sea, -earth, and sky. The horizon was bright orange colour, fading as it rose -to pale amber, which died away again into the modest violet colour of -twilight; this possessed the main sky wholly, except where two or three -masses of soft dark purple clouds floated, from behind which the stars -presently winked at us with their bright eyes. The river lay as still as -death, though there was a delicious fresh air: tiny boats were stealing -like shadows over the water; and every now and then against the orange -edge of the sky moved the masts of some schooner, whose hull was hidden -in the deep shadow thrown over it by the Jersey coast. A band was -playing in the Castle garden, and not a creature but ourselves seemed -abroad to see all this loveliness. Fashion makes the same fools all the -world over; and Broadway, with its crowded dusty pavement, and in the -full glare of day, is preferable, in the eyes of the New York -promenaders, to this cool and beautiful walk. Came home at about nine. -On the stairs met that odious Dr. ——, who came into the drawing-room -without asking or being asked, sat himself down, and called me "Miss -Fanny." I should like to have thrown my tea at him! —— sent up his -name and presently followed it. I like to see any of our -fellow-passengers, however little such society would have pleased me -under any other circumstances; but necessity "makes us acquainted with -strange bedfellows;" and these my ship-mates will, to the end of time, -be my very good friends and boon companions. My father went to the Park -theatre, to see a man of the name of Hacket give an American -entertainment after Matthews's at-home fashion. I would not go, but -staid at home looking at the moon, which was glorious.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>To-night, as I stood watching that surpassing sunset, I would have given -it all—gold, and purple, and all—for a wreath of English fog stealing -over the water.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 13th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose late: there was music in the night, which is always a strange -enchantment to me. After breakfast, wrote journal. At eleven, Captain -—— and —— called for us; and my uncle having joined us, we proceeded -to the slip, as they call the places where the ships lie, and which -answer to our docks. Poor dear Pacific! I ran up her side with great -glee, and was introduced to Captain ——, her old commander; rushed down -into my berth, and was actually growing pathetic over the scene of my -sea-sorrows, when Mr. —— clapped his hands close to me, and startled -me out of my reverie. Certainly my <i>adhesiveness</i> must either be very -large, or uncommonly active just now, for my heart yearned towards the -old timbers with exceeding affection. The old ship was all drest out in -her best, and after sitting for some time in our cabin, we adjourned to -the larger one and lunched. Mr. —— joined our party; and we had one or -two of our old ship songs, with their ridiculous burdens, with due -solemnity. Saw Mr. ——, but not dear M. ——. Visited the forecastle, -whence I have watched such glorious sunsets, such fair uprisings of the -starry sisterhood; now it looked upon the dusty quay and dirty dock -water, and the graceful sails were all stripped away, and the bare masts -and rigging shone in the intense sunlight. Poor good ship! I wish to -Heaven my feet were on her deck, and her prow turned to the east. I -would not care if the devil himself drove a hurricane at our backs. -Visited the fish and fruit markets:<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> it was too late in the day to -see either to advantage, but the latter reminded me of Aladdin's -treasure: the heaps of peaches, filling with their rich downy balls high -baskets ranged in endless rows, and painted of a bright <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>vermilion -colour, which threw a ruddy ripeness over the fruit. The enormous -baskets (such as are used in England to carry linen) piled with melons, -the wild grapes, the pears, and apples, all so plenteous, so fragrant, -so beautiful in form and colour, leading the mind to the wondrous -bounteousness which has dowered this land with every natural -treasure—the whole enchanted me. ——, to my horror, bought a couple of -beautiful live wild-pigeons, which he carried home, head downwards, one -in each coat pocket. We parted from him at the Park gate, and proceeded -to Murray Street, to look at the furnished house my father wishes to -take. Upon enquiry, however, we found that it was already let. The day -was bright and beautiful, and my father proposed crossing the river to -Hoboken, the scene of the turtle-eating expedition. We did so -accordingly: himself, D——, Mr. ——, and I. Steamers go across every -five minutes, conveying passengers on foot and horseback, gigs, -carriages, carts, any thing and every thing. The day was lovely—the -broad bright river was gemmed with a thousand sails. Away to the right -it stretched between richly-wooded banks, placid and blue as a lake; to -the left, in the rocky doorway of the narrows, two or three ships stood -revealed against the cloudless sky. We reached the opposite coast, and -walked. It was nearly three miles from where we landed to the scene of -the "<i>spoon-exercise</i>." The whole of our route lay through a beautiful -wild plantation, or rather strip of wood, I should say, for 'tis -nature's own gardening which crowns the high bank of the river; through -which trellis-work of varied foliage we caught exquisite glimpses of the -glorious waters, the glittering city, and the opposite banks, decked out -in all the loveliest contrast of sunshine and shade. As we stood in our -leafy colonnade looking out upon this fair scene, the rippling water -made sweet music far down below us, striking with its tiny silver waves -the smooth sand and dark-coloured rocks from which they were ebbing. -Many of the trees were quite new to me, and delighted me with their -graceful forms and vivid foliage. The broad-leaved catalpa, and the -hickory with its bright coral-coloured berries. Many lovely lowly -things, too, grew by our pathside, which we gathered as we passed, to -bring away, but which withered in our hands ere we returned. Gorgeous -butterflies were zigzagging through the air, and for the first time I -longed to imprison them. In pursuing one, I ran into the midst of a slip -of clover land, but presently jumped out again, on hearing the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> swarms -of grasshoppers round me. Mr. —— caught one; it was larger and thicker -than the English grasshopper, and of a dim mottled brown colour, like -the plumage of our common moth; but presently, on his opening his hand -to let it escape, it spread out a pair of dark purple wings, tipped with -pale primrose colour, and flew away a beautiful butterfly, such as the -one I had been seduced by. The slips of grass ground on the left of our -path were the only things that annoyed me: they were ragged, and rank, -and high,—they wanted mowing; and if they had been mowed soft, and -thick, and smooth, like an English lawn, how gloriously the lights and -shadows of this lovely sky would fall through the green roof of this -wood upon them! There is nothing in nature that, to my fancy, receives -light and shade with as rich an effect as sloping lawn land. Oh! -England, England! how I have seen your fresh emerald mantle deepen and -brighten in a summer's day. About a hundred yards from the place where -they dined on Tuesday, with no floor but the damp earth, no roof but the -dripping trees, stands a sort of <i>café</i>; a long, low, pretty -Italianish-looking building. The wood is cleared away in front of it, -and it commands a lovely view of the Hudson and its opposite shores: and -here they might have been sheltered and comfortable, but I suppose it -was not yet the appointed day of the month with them for eating their -dinner within walls; and, rather than infringe on an established rule, -they preferred catching a cold apiece. The place where they met in the -open air is extremely beautiful, except, of course, on a rainy day. The -shore is lower just here; and though there are trees enough to make -shade all round, and a thick screen of wood and young undergrowth -behind, the front is open to the river, which makes a bend just below, -forming a lake-like bay, round which again the coast rises into rocky -walls covered with rich foliage. Upon one of these promontories, in the -midst of a high open knoll, surrounded and overhung by higher grounds -covered with wood, stood the dwelling of the owner of the land, high -above the river, overlooking its downward course to the sea, perched -like an eagle's aërie, half-way between heaven and the level earth, but -beautifully encircled with waving forests, a shade in summer and a -shelter in winter. My father, D——, and my bonnet sat down in the -shade. Mr. —— and I clambered upon some pieces of rock at the water's -edge, whence we looked out over river and land—a fair sight. "Oh!" I -exclaimed, pointing to the highlands on our left<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>, through whose rich -foliage the rifted granite looked cold and grey, "what a place for a -scramble! there must be lovely walks there." "Ay," returned my -companion, "and a few rattle-snakes too."<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> We found D——, my father, -and my bonnet buffeting with a swarm of musquitoes; this is a great -nuisance. We turned our steps homeward. I picked up a nut enclosed like -a walnut in a green case. I opened it; it was not ripe; but in -construction exactly like a walnut, with the same bitter filmy skin over -the fruit, which is sweet and oily, and like a walnut in flavour also. -Mr. —— told me it was called a marrow-nut. The tree on which it grew -had foliage of the acacia kind. We had to rush to meet the steam-boat, -which was just going across. The whole walk reminded me of that part of -Oatlands which, from its wild and tangled woodland, they call America.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>There must have been something surpassingly beautiful in our -surroundings, for even Mr. ——, into whose composition I suspect much -of the poetical element does not enter, began expatiating on the -happiness of the original possessors of these fair lands and waters, the -Indians—the Red Children of the soil, who followed the chase through -these lovely wildernesses, and drove their light canoes over these broad -streams—"great nature's happy commoners,"—till the predestined curse -came on them, till the white sails of the invaders threw their shadow -over these seas, and the work of extermination began in these wild -fastnesses of freedom. The destruction of the original inhabitants of a -country by its discoverers, always attended, as it is, with injustice -and cruelty, appears to me one of the most mysterious dispensations of -Providence.</p> - -<p>The chasing, enslaving, and destroying creatures, whose existence, -however inferior, is as justly theirs as that of the most refined -European is his; who for the most part, too, receive their enemies with -open-handed hospitality, until taught treachery by being betrayed, and -cruelty by fear; the driving the child of the soil off it, or, what is -fifty times worse, chaining him to till it; all the various forms of -desolation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> which have ever followed the landing of civilised men upon -uncivilised shores; in short, the theory and practice of discovery and -conquest, as recorded in all history, is a very singular and painful -subject of contemplation.</p> - -<p>'Tis true that cultivation and civilisation, the arts and sciences that -render life useful, the knowledge that ennobles, the adornments that -refine existence, above all, the religion that is the most sacred trust -and dear reward, all these, like pure sunshine and healthful airs -following a hurricane, succeed the devastation of the invader; but the -sufferings of those who are swept away are not the less; and though I -believe that good alone is God's result, it seems a fearful proof of the -evil wherewith this earth is cursed, that good cannot progress but over -such a path. No one beholding the prosperous and promising state of this -fine country, could wish it again untenanted of its enterprising and -industrious possessors; yet even while looking with admiration at all -that they have achieved, with expectation amounting to certainty to all -that they will yet accomplish, 'tis difficult to refrain from bestowing -some thoughts of pity and of sadness upon those whose homes have been -overturned, whose language has passed away, and whose feet are daily -driven further from those territories of which they were once sole and -sovereign lords. How strange it is to think, that less than one hundred -years ago, these shores, resounding with the voice of populous -cities,—these waters, laden with the commerce of the wide world,—were -silent wildernesses, where sprang and fell the forest leaves, where -ebbed and flowed the ocean tides from day to day, and from year to year, -in uninterrupted stillness; where the great sun, who looked on the vast -empires of the East, its mouldering kingdoms, its lordly palaces, its -ancient temples, its swarming cities, came and looked down upon the -still dwelling of utter loneliness, where nature sat enthroned in -everlasting beauty, undisturbed by the far off din of worlds "beyond the -flood."<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a></p> - -<p>Came home rather tired: my father asked Mr. —— to dine with us, but he -could not. After dinner, sat working till ten o'clock, when —<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>— came to -take leave of us. He is going off to-morrow morning to Philadelphia, but -will be back for our Tuesday's dinner. The people here are all up and -about very early in the morning. I went out at half-past eight, and -found all Broadway abroad.</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 14th.</i></h3> - -<p>Forget all about it, except that I went about the town with Colonel -——.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>went to see his Quaker wife, whom I liked very much.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Drove all about New-York, which more than ever reminded me of the towns -in France: passed the Bowery theatre, which is a handsome -finely-proportioned building, with a large brazen eagle plastered on the -pediment, for all the world like an insurance mark, or the sign of the -spread eagle: this is nefarious! We passed a pretty house, which Colonel -—— called an old mansion; mercy on me, him, and it! Old! I thought of -Warwick Castle, of Hatfield, of Chequers, of Hopwood—old! and there it -stood, with its white pillars and Italian-looking portico, for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> all the -world like one of our own cit's yesterday-grown boxes. Old, quotha! the -woods and waters and hills and skies alone are old here; the works of -men are in the very greenness and unmellowed imperfection of youth: -true, 'tis a youth full of vigorous sap and glorious promise; spring, -laden with blossoms, foretelling abundant and rich produce, and so let -them be proud of it. But the worst of it is, the Americans are not -satisfied with glorying in what they are,—which, considering the time -and opportunities they have had, is matter of glory quite -sufficient,—they are never happy without comparing this their sapling -to the giant oaks of the old world,—and what can one say to that? <i>Is</i> -New-York like London? No, by my two troths it is not; but the oak was an -acorn once, and New York will surely, if the world holds together long -enough, become a lordly city, such as we know of beyond the sea.</p> - -<p>Went in the evening to see Wallack act the Brigand; it was his benefit, -and the house was very good. He is perfection in this sort of thing, yet -there were one or two blunders even in his melo-dramatic acting of this -piece; however, he looks very like the thing, and it is very nice to -see—once.</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 15th.</i></h3> - -<p>Sat stitching all the blessed day. So we are to go to <i>Philadelphia</i> -before <i>Boston</i>. I'm sorry. The H——s will be disappointed, and I shall -get no riding, <i>che seccatura!</i> At five dressed, and went to the ——, -where we were to dine. This is one of the first houses here, so I -conclude that I am to consider what I see as a tolerable sample of the -ways and manners of being, doing, and suffering of the <i>best society</i> in -New York. There were about twenty people; the women were in a sort of -French demi-toilette, with bare necks, and long sleeves, heads frizzed -out after the very last <i>Petit Courier</i>, and thread net handkerchiefs -and capes; the whole of which, to my English eye, appeared a strange -marrying of incongruities. The younger daughter of our host is -beautiful; a young and brilliant likeness of Ellen Tree, with more -refinement, and a smile that was, not to say a ray, but a whole focus of -sun rays, a perfect blaze of light; she was much taken up with a youth, -to whom, my neighbour at dinner informed me, she was engaged.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The women here, like those of most warm climates, ripen very early,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> and -decay proportionably soon. They are, generally speaking, pretty, with -good complexions, and an air of freshness and brilliancy, but this, I am -told, is very evanescent; and whereas, in England, a woman is in the -full bloom of health and beauty from twenty to five-and-thirty, here -they scarcely reach the first period without being faded and looking -old.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> They marry very young, and this is another reason why age comes -prematurely upon them. There was a fair young thing at dinner to-day who -did not look above seventeen, and she was a wife. As for their figures, -like those of French women, they are too well dressed for one to judge -exactly what they are really like: they are, for the most part, short -and slight, with remarkably pretty feet and ankles; but there's too much -pelerine and petticoat, and "de quoi" of every sort, to guess any thing -more.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>There was a Mr. ——, the Magnus Apollo of New York, who is a musical -genius: sings as well as any gentleman need sing, pronounces Italian -well, and accompanies himself without false chords; all which renders -him <i>the</i> man round whom (as round H——, G——, Lord C——, and that -pretty Lord O——, in our own country) the women listen and languish. He -sang the Phantom Bark: the last time I heard it was from the lips of -Moore, with two of the loveliest faces in all the world hanging over -him, Mrs. N——, and Mrs. B——. By the by, the man who sat next me at -dinner was asking me all manner of questions about Mrs. N——: among -others, whether she was "as pale as a poetess ought to be?" Oh! how I -wish Corinne had but heard that herself! what a deal of funny scorn -would have looked beautiful on her rich brown cheek and brilliant lips. -The dinner was plenteous, and tolerably well dressed, but ill served: -there were not half servants enough, and we had neither water-glasses -nor finger-glasses. Now, though I don't eat with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> my fingers (except -peaches, whereat I think the aborigines, who were paring theirs like so -many potatoes, seemed rather amazed), yet do I hold a finger-glass at -the conclusion of my dinner a requisite to comfort. After dinner we had -coffee, but no tea, whereat my English taste was in high dudgeon. The -gentlemen did not sit long, and when they joined us, Mr. ——, as I said -before, uttered sweet sounds. By the by, I was not a little amused at -Mrs. —— asking me whether I had heard of his singing, or their musical -soirées, and seeming all but surprised that I had no revelations of -either across the Atlantic. Mercy on me! what fools people are all over -the world! The worst is, they are all fools of the same sort, and there -is no profit whatever in travelling. Mr. B——, who is an Englishman, -happened to ask me if I knew Captain ——, whereupon we immediately -struck up a conversation, and talked over English folks and doings -together, to my entire satisfaction. The —— were there: he is brother -to that wondrous ruler of the spirits whom I did so dislike in London, -and his lady is a daughter of Lord ——.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I was very glad to come home. I sang to them two or three things, but -the piano was pitched too high for my voice; by the by, in that large, -lofty, fine room, they had a tiny, old-fashioned, becurtained cabinet -piano stuck right against the wall, unto which the singer's face was -turned, and into which his voice was absorbed. We had hardly regained -our inn and uncloaked, when there came a tap at the door, and in walked -Mr. —— to ask me if we would not join them (himself and the ——) at -supper. He said that, besides five being a great deal too early to dine, -he had not half dinner enough; and then began the regular English -quizzing of every thing and every body we had left behind. Oh dear, oh -dear! how thoroughly English it was, and how it reminded me of H——; of -course, we did not accept their invitation, but it furnished me matter -of amusement. How we English folks do cling to our own habits, our own -views, our own things, our own people; how, in spite of all our -wanderings and scatterings over the whole face of the earth, like so -many Jews, we never lose our distinct and national individuality; nor -fail to lay hold of one another's skirts, to laugh at and depreciate all -that differs from that country, which we delight in forsaking for any -and all others.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 16th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight. After breakfast, walked to church with the C——s and Mr. -B——. They went to Grace Church for the music; we stopped short to go -to the —— pew in the Episcopal church. The pew was crammed, I am sorry -to say, owing to our being there, which they had pressed so earnestly, -that we thought ourselves bound to accept the invitation. The sermon was -tolerably good; better than the average sermons one hears in London, and -sufficiently well delivered. After church, I—— called, also two men of -the name of M——, large men, very! also Mr. B—— and Mr. C——: when -they were all gone, wrote journal, and began a letter to J——. Dined at -five; after dinner, went on with my letter to J——, and wrote an -immense one to dear H——, which kept me pen in hand till past twelve. A -tremendous thunderstorm came on, which lasted from nine o'clock till -past two in the morning: I never saw but one such in my life; and that -was our memorable Weybridge storm, which only exceeded this in the -circumstance of my having seen a thunderbolt fall during that paroxysm -of the elements. But this was very glorious, awful, beautiful, and -tremendous. The lightning played without the intermission of a second, -in wide sheets of purple glaring flame, that trembled over the earth for -nearly two or three seconds at a time; making the whole world, river, -sky, trees, and buildings, look like a ghostly universe cut out in -chalk. The light over the water, which absolutely illumined the shore on -the other side with the broad glare of full day, was of a magnificent -purple colour. The night was pitchy dark, too; so that between each of -these ghastly smiles of the devil, the various pale steeples and -buildings, which seemed at every moment to leap from nothing into -existence, after standing out in fearful relief against a back-ground of -fire, were hidden like so many dreams in deep and total darkness. God's -music rolled along the heavens; the forked lightnings now dived from the -clouds into the very bosom of the city, now ran like tangled threads of -fire all round the blazing sky. "The big bright rain came dancing to the -earth," the wind clapped its huge wings, and swept through the dazzling -glare; and as I stood, with eyes half veiled (for the light was too -intense even upon the ground to be looked at with unshaded eyes), gazing -at this fierce holiday of the elements—at the mad lightning<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>—at the -brilliant shower, through which the flashes shone like -daylight—listening to the huge thunder, as its voice resounded, and its -heavy feet rebounded along the clouds—and the swift spirit-like wind -rushing triumphantly along, uttering its wild pæan over the amazed -earth;—I felt more intensely than I ever did before the wondrous might -of these God's powerful and beautiful creatures; the wondrous might, -majesty, and awfulness of him their Lord, beneath whose footstool they -lie chained, by his great goodness made the ministers of good to this -our lowly dwelling-place. I did not go to bed till two; the storm -continued to rage long after that.</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 17th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight. At twelve, went to rehearsal. The weather is intolerable; -I am in a state of perpetual fusion. The theatre is the coolest place I -have yet been in, I mean at rehearsal; when the front is empty, and the -doors open, and the stage is so dark that we are obliged to rehearse by -candlelight. That washed-out man, who failed in London when he acted -Romeo with me, is to be my Fazio; let us hope he will know some of his -words to-morrow night, for he is at present most innocent of any such -knowledge. After rehearsal, walked into a shop to buy some gauze: the -shopmen called me by my name, entered into conversation with us; and one -of them, after showing me a variety of things which I did not want, -said, that they were most anxious to show me every attention, and render -my stay in this country agreeable. A Christian, I suppose, would have -met these benevolent advances with an infinitude of thankfulness, and an -outpouring of grateful pleasure; but for my own part, though I had the -grace to smile and say, "Thank you," I longed to add, "but be so good as -to measure your ribands, and hold your tongue." I have no idea of -holding parley with clerks behind a counter, still less of their doing -so with me. So much for my first impression of the courtesy of this land -of liberty. I should have been much better pleased if they had called me -"Ma'am," which they did not. We dined at three. V—— and Colonel —— -called after dinner. At seven, went to the theatre. It was my dear -father's first appearance in this new world, and my heart ached with -anxiety. The weather was intensely hot, yet the theatre was crowded: -when he came on, they gave him what every body here calls an immense -reception; but they should see our London <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>audience get up, and wave -hats and handkerchiefs, and shout welcome as they do to us. The tears -were in my eyes, and all I could say was, "They might as well get up, I -think." My father looked well, and acted beyond all praise; but oh, what -a fine and delicate piece of work this is! There is not one sentence, -line, or word of this part which my father has not sifted grain by -grain; there is not one scene or passage to which he does not give its -fullest and most entire substance, together with a variety that relieves -the intense study of the whole with wonderful effect.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I think that it is impossible to conceive Hamlet more truly, or execute -it more exquisitely, than he does. The refinement, the tenderness, the -grace, dignity, and princely courtesy with which he invests it from -beginning to end, are most lovely; and some of the slighter passages, -which, like fine tints to the incapable eyes of blindness, must always -pass unnoticed, and, of course, utterly uncomprehended, by the -discriminating public, enchanted me.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>His voice was weak, from nervousness and the intolerable heat of the -weather, and he was not well dressed, which was a pity.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The play was well got up, and went off very well. The —— were there, a -regiment of them; also Colonel —— and Captain ——. After the play, -came home to supper.</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 18th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight. At eleven, went to rehearsal. Mr. Keppel is just as -nervous and as imperfect as ever: what on earth will he, or shall I, do -to-night! Came home, got things out for the theatre, and sat like any -stroller stitching for dear life at my head-dress. Mr. H—— and his -nephew called: the latter asked me if I was at all apprehensive? No, by -my troth, I am not; and that not because I feel sure of success, for I -think it very probable the Yankees may like to show their critical -judgment and independence by damning me; but because, thank God, I do -not care whether they do or not: the whole thing is too loathsome to me, -for either failure or success to affect me in the least, and therefore -I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> feel neither nervous nor anxious about it. We dined at three: after -dinner, J—— came; he sat some time. When he was gone, I came into the -drawing-room, and found a man sitting with my father, who presented him -to me by some inaudible name. I sat down, and the gentleman pursued his -conversation as follows:—"When Clara Fisher came over, Barry wrote to -me about her, and I wrote him back word: 'My dear fellow, if your bella -donna is such as you describe, why, we'll see what we can do; we will -take her by the hand.'" This was enough for me. I jumped up, and ran out -of the room; because a newspaper writer is my aversion. At half-past -six, went to the theatre. They acted the farce of Popping the Question -first, in order, I suppose, to get the people to their places before the -play began. Poor Mr. Keppel was gasping for breath; he moved my -compassion infinitely; I consoled and comforted him all I could, gave -him some of my lemonade to swallow, for he was choking with fright; sat -myself down with my back to the audience, and up went the curtain. Owing -to the position in which I was sitting, and my plain dress, most -unheroine-like in its make and colour, the people did not know me, and -would not have known me for some time, if that stupid man had done as I -kept bidding him, gone on; but instead of doing so, he stood stock -still, looked at me, and then at the audience, whereupon the latter -caught an inkling of the truth, and gave me such a reception as I get in -Covent Garden theatre every time I act a new part. The house was very -full; all the —— were there, and Colonel ——. Mr. Keppel was -frightened to death, and in the very second speech was quite out: it was -in vain that I prompted him; he was too nervous to take the word, and -made a complete mess of it. This happened more than once in the first -scene; and at the end of the first act, as I left the stage, I said to -D——, "It's all up with me, I can't do any thing now;" for, having to -prompt my Fazio, frightened by his fright, annoyed by his forgetting his -crossings and positions, utterly unable to work myself into any thing -like excitement, I thought the whole thing must necessarily go to -pieces. However, once rid of my encumbrance, which I am at the end of -the second act, I began to move a little more freely, gathered up my -strength, and set to work comfortably by myself; whereupon, the people -applauded, I warmed (warmed, quotha! the air was steam), and got through -very satisfactorily, at least so it seems. My dresses were very -beautiful; but oh, but oh, the musquitoes had made dreadful havoc<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> with -my arms, which were covered with hills as large and red as Vesuvius in -an eruption. After the play, my father introduced me to Mr. B——, Lord -S——'s brother, who was behind the scenes; his brother's place, by the -by. Came home, supped.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Came to bed at half past twelve; weary, and half melted away. The ants -swarm on the floors, on the tables, in the beds, about one's clothes; -the plagues of Egypt were a joke to them: horrible! it makes one's life -absolutely burdensome, to have creatures creeping about one, and all -over one, night and day, this fashion; to say nothing of those -cantankerous stinging things, the musquitoes.</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 19th.</i></h3> - -<p>D—— did not call me till ten o'clock, whereat I was in furious -dudgeon. Got up, breakfasted, and off to rehearsal; Romeo and Juliet. -Mr. Keppel has been dismissed, poor man! I'm sorry for him: my father is -to play Romeo with me, I'm sorrier still for that. After rehearsal, came -home, dawdled about my room: Mr. —— called: he is particularly fond of -music. My father asked him to try the piano, which he accordingly did, -and was playing most delightfully, when in walked Mr. ——, and by and -by Colonel ——, with his honour the Recorder, and General —— of the -militia. I amused myself with looking over some exquisite brown silk -stockings, wherewith I mean to match my gown. When they were all gone, -dawdled about till time to dress. So poor dear H—— can't come from -Philadelphia for our dinner—dear, I'm quite sorry! At five our party -assembled; we were but thin in numbers, and the half empty table, -together with the old ship faces, made it look, as some one observed, as -if it was blowing hard. Our dinner was neither good nor well served, the -wine not half iced. At the end of it, my father gave Captain —— his -claret-jug, wherewith that worthy seemed much satisfied.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>We left the table soon; came and wrote journal. When the gentlemen -joined us, they were all more or less "how com'd you so indeed?" Mr. -—— and Mr. —— particularly. They put me down to the piano, and once -or twice I thought I must have screamed. On one side <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span><i>vibrated</i> dear -Mr. ——, threatening my new gown with a cup of coffee, which he held at -an awful angle from the horizontal line; singing with every body who -opened their lips, and uttering such dreadfully discordant little -squeals and squeaks, that I thought I should have died of suppressed -laughter. On the other side, rather <i>concerned</i>, but not quite so much -so, stood the Irishman; who, though warbling a little out of tune, and -flourishing somewhat luxuriantly, still retained enough of his right -senses to discriminate between Mr. ——'s yelps and singing, properly so -called; and accordingly pished!—and pshawed!—and oh Lorded!—and good -heavened! away,— staring at the perpetrator with indignant horror -through his spectacles, while his terrified wig stood on end in every -direction, each particular hair appearing vehemently possessed with the -centrifugal force. They all went away in good time, and we came to bed.</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="i10">——To bed—to sleep—</div> -<div>To sleep!—perchance to be bitten! ay—there's the scratch:</div> -<div>And in that sleep of ours what bugs may come,</div> -<div>Must give us pause.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 20th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight. After breakfast, went to rehearse Romeo and Juliet. Poor -Mr. Keppel is fairly laid on the shelf; I'm sorry for him! What a funny -passion he had, by the by, for going down upon his knees. In Fazio, at -the end of the judgment scene, when I was upon mine, down he went upon -his, making the most absurd devout-looking <i>vis-à-vis</i> I ever beheld: in -the last scene, too, when he ought to have been going off to execution, -down he went again upon his knees, and no power on earth could get him -up again, for Lord knows how long. Poor fellow, he bothered me a good -deal, yet I'm sincerely sorry for him. At the end of our rehearsal, came -home. The weather is sunny, sultry, scorching, suffocating. Ah! Mr. —— -called. This is an indifferent imitation of bad fine manners amongst us; -"he speaks small, too, like a gentleman." He sat for a long time, -talking over the opera, and all the prima donnas in the world. When he -was gone, Mr. —— and Mr. —— called.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The latter asked us to dinner to-morrow, to meet Dr. ——, who, poor -man, dares neither go to the play nor call upon us, so strict are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> the -good people here about the behaviour of their pastors and masters. By -the by, Essex called this morning to fetch away the Captain's -claret-jug: he asked my father for an order; adding, with some -hesitation, "It must be for the gallery, if you please, sir, for people -of colour are not allowed to go to the pit, or any other part of the -house." I believe I turned black myself, I was so indignant. Here's -aristocracy with a vengeance! —— called with Forrest, the American -actor. Mr. Forrest has rather a fine face, I think. We dined at three: -after dinner, wrote journal, played on the piano, and frittered away my -time till half-past six. Went to the theatre: the house was very full, -and dreadfully hot. My father acted Romeo beautifully: I looked very -nice, and the people applauded my <i>gown</i> abundantly. At the end of the -play I was half dead with heat and fatigue: came home and supped, lay -down on the floor in absolute meltiness away, and then came to bed.</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 21st.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight. After breakfast went to rehearsal. The School for -Scandal; Sir Peter, I see, keeps his effects to himself; what a bore -this is, to be sure! Got out things for the theatre. While eating my -lunch, Mr. —— and his cousin, a Mr. —— (one of the cleverest lawyers -here), called.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>They were talking of Mr. Keppel. By the by, of that gentleman; Mr. -Simpson sent me this morning, for my decision, a letter from Mr. Keppel, -soliciting another trial, and urging the hardness of his case, in being -condemned upon a part which he had had no time to study. My own opinion -of poor Mr. Keppel is, that no power on earth or in heaven can make him -act decently; however, of course, I did not object to his trying again; -he did not swamp me the first night, so I don't suppose he will the -fifth. We dined at five. Just before dinner, received a most delicious -bouquet, which gladdened my very heart with its sweet smell and lovely -colours: some of the flowers were strangers to me. After dinner, Colonel -—— called, and began pulling out heaps of newspapers, and telling us a -long story about Mr. Keppel, who, it seems, has been writing to the -papers, to convince them and the public that he is a good actor; at the -same time throwing out sundry<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> hints, which seem aimed our way, of -injustice, oppression, hard usage, and the rest on't.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Mr. —— called to offer to ride with me; when, however, the question of -a horse was canvassed, he knew of none, and Colonel ——'s whole -regiment of "beautiful ladies' horses" had also neither a local -habitation nor a name.</p> - - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>When they were gone, went to the theatre; the house was very good, the -play the School for Scandal. I played pretty fairly, and looked very -nice. The people were stupid to a degree, to be sure; poor things! it -was very hot. Indeed, I scarce understand how they should be amused with -the School for Scandal; for though the dramatic situations are so -exquisite, yet the wit is far above the generality of even our own -audiences, and the tone and manners altogether are so thoroughly -English, that I should think it must be for the most part -incomprehensible to the good people here. After the play, came home. -Colonel S—— supped with us, and renewed the subject of Mr. Keppel and -the theatre. My father happened to say, referring to a passage in that -worthy's letter to the public, "I shall certainly inquire of Mr. Keppel -why he has so used my name;" to which Colonel S—— replied, as usual, -"No, now let me advise, let me beg you, Mr. Kemble, just to remain -quiet, and leave all this to me." This was too much for mortal woman to -bear. I immediately said, "Not at all: it is my father's affair, if any -body's; and he alone has the right to demand any explanation, or make -any observation on the subject; and were I he, I certainly should do so, -and that forthwith." I could hold no longer.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Came to bed in tremendous dudgeon. The few <i>critiques</i> that I have seen -upon our acting have been, upon the whole, laudatory. One was sent to me -from a paper called The Mirror, which pleased me very much; not because -the praise in it was excessive, and far beyond my deserts, but that it -was written with great taste and feeling, and was evidently not the -produce of a common press-hack. There appeared to me in all the others -the true provincial dread of praising too much, and being <i>led</i> into -approbation by previous opinions; a sort of jealousy of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> critical -freedom, which, together with the established <i>nil admirari</i> of the -press, seems to keep them in a constant dread of being thought -enthusiastic. They need not be afraid: enthusiasm may belong to such -analyses as Schlegel's or Channing's, but has nothing in common with the -paragraphs of a newspaper; the inditers of which, in my poor judgment, -seldom go beyond the very threshold of criticism, <i>i. e.</i> the discovery -of faults. I am infinitely amused at the extreme curiosity which appears -to me to be the besetting sin of the people here. A gentleman whom you -know (as for instance, in my case,) very slightly, will sit down by your -table during a morning visit, turn over every article upon it, look at -the cards of the various people who have called upon you, ask -half-a-dozen questions about each of them, as many about your own -private concerns; and all this, as though it were a matter of course -that you should answer him, which I feel greatly inclined occasionally -not to do.</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 22d.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight. After breakfast, dawdled about till near one o'clock: got -into a hackney coach<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> with D——, and returned all manner of cards.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Went into a shop to order a pair of shoes. The shopkeepers in this -place, with whom I have hitherto had to deal, are either condescendingly -familiar, or insolently indifferent in their manner. Your washer woman -sits down before you, while you are <i>standing</i> speaking to her; and a -shop-boy bringing things for your inspection not only sits down, but -keeps his hat on in your drawing-room. The worthy man to whom I went for -my shoes was so amazingly ungracious, that at first I thought<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> I would -go out of the shop; but recollecting that I should probably only go -farther and fare worse, I gulped, sat down, and was measured. All this -is bad: it has its origin in a vulgar misapprehension, which confounds -ill-breeding with independence, and leads people to fancy that they -elevate themselves above their condition by discharging its duties and -obligations discourteously.<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Came home: wrote journal, practised, dressed for dinner. At five, went -into our neighbour's: Dr. ——, the rector of Grace Church, was the only -stranger. I liked him extremely: he sat by me at dinner, and I thought -his conversation sufficiently clever, with an abundance of goodness, and -liberal benevolent feeling shining through it. We retired to our room, -where Mrs. —— made me laugh extremely with sundry passages of her -American experiences. I was particularly amused with her account of -their stopping, after a long day's journey, at an inn somewhere, when -the hostess, who remained in the room the whole time, addressed her as -follows: "D'ye play?" pointing to an open piano-forte. Mrs. —— replied -that she did so sometimes; whereupon the free-and-easy landlady ordered -candles, and added, "Come, sit down and give us a tune, then;" to which -courteous and becoming invitation Mrs. —— replied by taking up her -candle, and walking out of the room. The pendant to this is Mr. ——'s -story. He sent a die of his crest to a manufacturer, to have it put upon -his gig harness. The man sent home the harness, when it was finished, -but without the die; after sending for which sundry times, Mr. —— -called to enquire after it himself, when the reply was:—</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p><p>"Lord! why I didn't know you wanted it."</p> - -<p>"I tell you, I wish to have it back."</p> - -<p>"Oh, pooh! you can't want it much, now—do you?"</p> - -<p>"I tell you, sir, I desire to have the die back immediately."</p> - -<p>"Ah well, come now, what'll you take for it?"</p> - -<p>"D'ye think I mean to sell my crest? why you might as well ask me to -sell my name."</p> - -<p>"Why, you see, a good many folks have seen it, and want to have it on -their harness, as it's a pretty looking concern enough."</p> - -<p>So much for their ideas of a crest. This though, by the by, happened -some years ago.</p> - -<p>After the gentlemen joined us, my father made me sing to them, which I -did with rather a bad grace, as I don't think any body wished to hear me -but himself.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Dr. —— is perfectly enchanting. They left us at about eleven. Came to -bed.</p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 23d.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight. After breakfast, went to church with D——. There is no -such thing, I perceive, as a pew-opener; so, after standing sufficiently -long in the middle of the church, we established ourselves very -comfortably in a pew, where we remained unmolested. The day was most -lovely, and my eyes were constantly attracted to the church windows, -through which the magnificent willows of the burial-ground looked like -golden green fountains rising into the sky.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The singing in church was excellent, and Dr. ——'s sermon very good, -too: he wants sternness; but that is my particular fancy about a -clergyman, and by most people would be accounted no want. It was not -sacrament Sunday; D—— was disappointed; and I mistaken. Mr. —— -walked home with us. After church, wrote journal. —— called, and sat -with us during dinner, telling us stories of the flogging of slaves, as -he himself had witnessed it in the south, that forced the colour into my -face, the tears into my eyes, and strained every muscle in my body with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> -positive rage and indignation: he made me perfectly sick with it. When -he was gone, my father went to Colonel ——'s. I played all through Mr. -——'s edition of Cinderella, and then wrote three long letters, which -kept me up till nearly one o'clock. Oh, bugs, fleas, flies, ants, and -musquitoes, great is the misery you inflict upon me! I sit slapping my -own face all day, and lie thumping my pillow all night: 'tis a perfect -nuisance to be devoured of creatures <i>before</i> one's in the ground; it -isn't fair. Wrote to Mr. ——, to ask if he would ride with me on -Tuesday. I am dying to be on horseback again.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 24th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight: went and took a bath. After breakfast, went to rehearsal: -Venice Preserved, with Mr. Keppel, who did not appear to me to know the -words even, and seemed perfectly bewildered at being asked to do the -common business of the piece. "Mercy on me! what will he do to-night?" -thought I. Came home and got things ready for the theatre. Received a -visit from poor Mr. ——, who has got the lumbago, as Sir Peter would -say, "on purpose," I believe, to prevent my riding out to-morrow. Dined -at three: after dinner, played and sang through Cinderella; wrote -journal: at six, went to the theatre. My gown was horribly ill-plaited, -and I looked like a blue bag. The house was very full, and they received -Mr. K—— with acclamations and shouts of applause. When I went on, I -was all but tumbling down at the sight of my Jaffier, who looked like -the apothecary in Romeo and Juliet, with the addition of some devilish -red slashes along his thighs and arms. The first scene passed well and -so: but, oh, the next, and the next, and the next to that! Whenever he -was not glued to my side (and that was seldom), he stood three yards -behind me; he did nothing but seize my hand, and grapple to it so hard, -that unless I had knocked him down (which I felt much inclined to try), -I could not disengage myself. In the senate scene, when I was entreating -for mercy, and <i>struggling</i>, as Otway has it, for my life, he was -prancing round the stage in every direction, flourishing his dagger in -the air: I wish to Heaven I had got up and run away: it would but have -been natural, and have served him extremely right. In the parting -scene,—oh what a scene it was!—instead of going away<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> from me when he -said "farewell for ever," he stuck to my skirts, though in the same -breath that I adjured him, in the words of my part, not to leave me, I -added, aside, "Get away from me, oh <i>do</i>!" When I exclaimed, "Not one -kiss at parting," he kept embracing and kissing me like mad: and when I -ought to have been pursuing him, and calling after him, "Leave thy -dagger with me," he hung himself up against the wing, and remained -dangling there for five minutes. I was half crazy! and the good people -sat and swallowed it all: they deserved it, by my troth, they did. I -prompted him constantly; and once, after struggling in vain to free -myself from him, was obliged, in the middle of my part, to exclaim, "You -hurt me dreadfully, Mr. Keppel!" He clung to me, cramped me, crumpled -me,—dreadful! I never experienced any thing like this before, and made -up my mind that I never would again. I played of course like a wretch, -finished my part as well as I could, and, as soon as the play was over, -went to my father and Mr. Simpson, and declared to them both my -determination not to go upon the stage again, with that gentleman for a -hero. Three trials are as many as, in reason, any body can demand, and, -come what come may, <i>I</i> will not be subjected to this sort of experiment -again. At the end of the play, the clever New Yorkians actually called -for Mr. Keppel! and this most worthless clapping of hands, most -worthlessly bestowed upon such a worthless object, is what, by the -nature of my craft, I am bound to care for; I spit at it from the bottom -of my soul! Talking of applause, the man who acted Bedamar to-night -thought fit to be two hours dragging me off the stage; in consequence of -which I had to scream, "Jaffier, Jaffier," till I thought I should have -broken a blood-vessel. On my remonstrating with him upon this, he said, -"Well, you are rewarded, listen:" the people were clapping and shouting -vehemently: this is the whole history of acting and actors. We came home -tired, and thoroughly disgusted, and found no supper. The cooks, who do -not live in the house, but come and do their work, and depart home -whenever it suits their convenience, had not thought proper to stay to -prepare any supper for us: so we had to wait for the readiest things -that could be procured out of doors for us—this was pleasant<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>—very! -At last appeared a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> cold boiled fowl, and some monstrous oysters, that -looked for all the world like an antediluvian race of oysters, "for in -those days there were giants." Six mouthfuls each: they were -well-flavoured; but their size displeased my eye, and I swallowed but -one, and came to bed.</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 28th.</i></h3> - -<p>A letter from England, the first from dear ——. D—— brought it me -while I was dressing, and oh, how welcome, how welcome it was!</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>After breakfast went to rehearsal: Much Ado about Nothing. Came home, -wrote journal, put out things for the theatre, dined at three. After -dinner, —— called.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Mr. —— called, and sat with us till six o'clock.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I constantly sit thunderstruck at the amazing number of unceremonious<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> -questions which people here think fit to ask one, and, moreover, expect -one to answer. Went to the theatre; the house was not good. The Italians -were expected to sing for the first time; they did not, however, but in -the mean time thinned our house.</p> - -<p>I would give the world to see Mr. —— directing the public taste, by an -œillade, and leading the public approbation, by a gracious tapping of -his supreme hand upon his ineffable snuff-box; he reminds me of high -life below stairs. The play went off very well; I played well, and my -dresses looked beautiful; my father acted to perfection. I never saw any -thing so gallant, gay, so like a gentlemen, so full of brilliant, -buoyant, refined spirit; he looked admirably, too. Mr. —— was behind -the scenes; speaking to me of my father's appearance in Pierre, he said -he reminded him of Lord ——. I could not forbear asking him how long he -had been away from England? he replied, four years. Truly, four years -will furnish him matter of astonishment when he returns. Swallow Street -is grown into a line of palaces; the Strand is a broad magnificent -avenue, where all the wealth of the world seems gathered together; and -Lord ——, the "observed of all observers," is become a red-faced fat -old man. "Och, Time! can't ye be aisy now!"</p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 30th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose late, did not go to church; sat writing letters all the morning. -Mr. —— and Mr. —— called. What a character that Mr. —— is! Colonel -—— called, and wanted to take my father out; but we were all inditing -espistles to go to-morrow by the dear old Pacific. At three o'clock, -went to church with Mrs. —— and Mr. ——. I like Dr. —— most -extremely. His mild, benevolent, Christian view of the duties and -blessings of life is very delightful; and the sound practical doctrine -he preaches "good for edification."</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>It poured with rain, but they sent a coach for us from the inn; came -home, dressed for dinner. D—— and I dined <i>tête-à-tête</i>. After dinner, -sat writing letters for Mr. ——'s bag till ten o'clock: came to my own -room, undressed, and began a volume to dear ——.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span></p><p>I did not get to bed till three o'clock: in spite of all which I am as -fat as an overstuffed pincushion.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Select specimens of American pronunciation:—</p> - -<table summary=" specimens of American pronunciation"> - <tr> - <td class="left">vaggaries,</td> - <td class="left">vagaries.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">ad infinnitum, </td> - <td class="left">ad infinitum.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">vitupperate,</td> - <td class="left">vituperate.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<h3><i>Monday, October 1st.</i></h3> - -<p>While I was out, Captain —— called for our letters. Saw Mr. ——, and -bade him good-by: they are going away to-day to Havre, to Europe; I wish -I was a nail in one of their trunks. After breakfast, went to rehearse -King John: what a lovely mess they will make of it, to be sure! When my -sorrows were ended, my father brought me home: found a most lovely -nosegay from Mr. —— awaiting me. Bless it! how sweet it smelt, and how -pretty it looked. Spent an hour delightfully in putting it into water. -Got things ready for to-night, practised till dinner, and wrote journal. -My father received a letter to-day, informing him that a cabal was -forming by the friends of Miss Vincent and Miss Clifton (native talent!) -to hiss us off the New York stage, if possible; if not, to send people -in every night to create a disturbance during our best scenes: the -letter is anonymous, and therefore little deserving of attention. After -dinner, practised till time to go to the theatre. The house was very -full; but what a cast! what a play! what botchers! what butchers! In his -very first scene, the most christian king stuck fast; and there he -stood, shifting his truncheon from hand to hand, rolling his eyes, -gasping for breath, and struggling for words, like a man in the -night-mare. I thought of Hamlet—"Leave thy damnable faces"—and was -obliged to turn away. In the scene before Angiers, when the French and -English heralds summon the citizens to the walls, the Frenchman applied -his instrument to his mouth, uplifted his chest, distended his cheeks, -and appeared to blow furiously; not a sound! he dropped his arm, and -looked off the stage in discomfiture and indignation, when the perverse -trumpet set up a blast fit to waken the dead,—the audience roared: it -reminded me of the harp in the old ballad, that "began to play alone." -Chatillon, on his return from England, begged to assure us that with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> -King John was come the mother queen, an <i>Anty</i> stirring him to blood and -war. When Cardinal Pandulph came on, the people set up a shout, as -usual: he was dreadfully terrified, poor thing; and all the time he -spoke kept giving little nervous twitches to his sacred petticoat, in a -fashion that was enough to make one die of laughter. He was as -obstinate, too, in his bewilderment as a stuttering man in his -incoherency; for once, when he stuck fast, having twitched his skirts, -and thumped his breast in vain for some time, I thought it best, having -to speak next, to go on; when, lo and behold! in the middle of my -speech, the "scarlet sin" recovers his memory, and shouts forth the end -of his own, to the utter confusion of my august self and the audience. I -thought they never would have got through my last scene: king gazed at -cardinal, and cardinal gazed at king; king nodded and winked at the -prompter, spread out his hands, and remained with his mouth open: -cardinal nodded and winked at the prompter, crossed his hands on his -breast, and remained with his mouth open; neither of them uttering a -syllable! What a scene! O, what a glorious scene! Came home as soon as -my part was over. Supped, and sat up for my father. Heard his account of -the end, and came to bed.<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a></p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 3d.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose late. After breakfast, went to rehearsal: what a mess I do make of -Bizarre! Ellen Tree and Mrs. Chatterly were angels to what I shall be, -yet I remember thinking them both bad enough. After all, if people -generally did but know the difficulty of doing well, they would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> be less -damnatory upon those who do ill. It is not easy to act well. After -rehearsal, went to Stewart's with D——. As we were proceeding up -Broadway to Bonfanti's,<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> I saw a man in the strangest attitude -imaginable, absolutely setting at us: presently he pounced, and who -should it be but ——. He came into Bonfanti's with us, and afterwards -insisted on escorting us to our various destinations; not, however, -without manifold and deep lamentations on his slovenly appearance and -dirty gloves. The latter, however, he managed to exchange, <i>chemin -faisant</i>, for a pair of new ones, which he extracted from his pocket and -drew on, without letting go our arms, which he squeezed most -unmercifully during the operation. We went through a part of the town -which I had never seen before. The shops have all a strange fair-like -appearance, and exhibit a spectacle of heterogeneous disorder, which -greatly amazes the eye of a Londoner. The comparative infancy in which -most of the adornments of life are yet in this country, renders it -impossible for the number of distinct trades to exist that do among us, -where the population is so much denser, and where the luxurious -indulgences of the few find ample occupation for the penurious industry -of the many. But here, one man drives several trades; and in every shop -you meet with a strange incongruous mixture of articles for sale, which -would be found nowhere in England, but in the veriest village -huckster's. Comparatively few of the objects for sale can be exposed in -the windows, which are, unlike our shop windows, narrow and ill adapted -for the display of goods: but piles of them lie outside the doors, -choking up the pathway, and coloured cloths, flannels, shawls, etc., are -suspended about in long draperies, whose vivid colours flying over the -face of the houses give them an untidy, but at the same time a gay, -flaunting appearance. We went into a shop to buy some stockings, and -missing our <i>preux chevalier</i>, I turned round to look for him; when I -perceived him beautifying most busily before a glass in a further corner -of the shop. He had seized on a sort of house brush, and began brooming -his hat: the next operation was to produce a small pocket-comb and -arrange his disordered locks; lastly, he transferred the services of the -brush of all work from his head to his feet, and having dusted his -boots, drawn himself up in his surtout, buttoned its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> two lower buttons, -and given a reforming grasp to his neckcloth, he approached us, -evidently much advanced in his own good graces. We went to the -furrier's, and brought away my dark boa. Came home, put out things for -packing up, and remained so engaged till time to dress for dinner. Mr. -and Mrs. —— and Mr. —— dined with us.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Mr. —— is an Englishman of the high breed, and sufficiently pleasant. -After dinner we had to withdraw into our bed-room, for the house is so -full that they can't cram any thing more into an inch of it.</p> - -<p>Joined the gentlemen at tea. Mr. —— had gone to the theatre: Mr. —— -and I had some music. He plays delightfully, and knows every note of -music that ever was written; but he had the barbarity to make me sing a -song of his own composing to him, which is a cruel thing in a man to do. -He went away at about eleven, and we then came to bed. My father went to -see Miss Clifton, at the Bowery theatre.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 4th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose late. After breakfast, went to rehearsal: my Bizarre is getting a -little more into shape. After rehearsal, came home. Mr. —— and Mr. -—— called, and sat some time with me. The former is tolerably -pleasant, but a little too fond of telling good stories that he has told -before. Put out things for the theatre: dined at three. Colonel -—— called. Wrote journal: while doing so, was called out to look at my -gown, which the worthy milliner had sent home.</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>I am, I am an angel! Witness it, heaven!</div> -<div>Witness it earth, and every being witness it!</div> -<div>The gown was spoil'd! Yet by immortal patience</div> -<div>I did not even fly into a passion.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>She took it back to alter it. Presently arrived my wreath, and that had -also to be taken back; for 't was nothing like what I had ordered. Now -all this does not provoke me; but the thing that does, is the dreadful -want of manners of the tradespeople here. They bolt into your room -without knocking, nod to you, sit down, and without the preface of -either Sir, Ma'am, or Miss, start off into "Well now, I'm<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> come to speak -about so and so." At six, went to the theatre; play, the Hunchback: the -house was crammed from floor to ceiling. I had an intense headach, but -played tolerably well. I wore my red satin, and looked like a bonfire. -Came home and found Smith's Virginia, and two volumes of Graham's -America, which I want to read. They charge twelve dollars for these: -every thing is horribly dear here. Came to bed with my head splitting.</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 5th.</i></h3> - -<p>Played Bizarre for the first time. Acted so-so, looked very pretty, the -house was very fine, and my father incomparable: they called for him -after the play. Colonel —— and Mr. —— called in while we were at -supper.</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 6th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose late: when I came in to breakfast, found Colonel —— sitting in -the parlour. He remained for a long time, and we had sundry discussions -on topics manifold. It seems that the blessed people here were shocked -at my having to hear the coarseness of Farquhar's -Inconstant—humbug!<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span></p><p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>At twelve, went out shopping, and paying bills; called upon Mrs. ——, -and sat some time with her and Mrs. ——; left a card at Mrs. ——'s,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> -and came home, prepared things for our journey, and dressed for dinner. -On our way to Mr. ——'s, my father told me he had been seeing Miss -Clifton, the girl they want him to teach to act; (to <i>teach</i> to act, -quotha!!!) He says, she is very pretty indeed, with fine eyes, a fair -delicate skin, and a handsome mouth; moreover, a tall woman, and yet -from the front of the house her effect is nought. What a pity, and a -provoking! A pleasant dinner, very. Mr. —— the poet, one Dr. ——, -Colonel ——, and Mr. ——: the only woman was a Miss ——.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p><p>——'s face reminded me of young ——: the countenance was not quite so -good, but there was the same radiant look about the eyes and forehead. -His expression was strongly sarcastic; I liked him very much -notwithstanding. When we left the men, we had the pleasure of the -children's society, and that of an unhappy kitten, whom a little -pitiless urchin of three years old was carrying crumpled under her arm -like a pincushion. The people here make me mad by abusing Lawrence's -drawing of me. If ever there was a refined and intellectual work, where -the might of genius triumphing over every material impediment has -enshrined and embodied spirit itself, it is that. Talking of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>Lawrence, -(poor Lawrence!) Mrs. —— said, "Ah, yes! your picture -by—a—Sir—something—Lawrence!" Oh, fame! oh, fame! Oh, vanity and -vexation of spirit! does your eternity and your infinitude amount to -this? There are lands where Shakspeare's name was never heard, where -Raphael and Handel are unknown; to be sure, for the matter of that, -there are regions (and those wide ones too) where Jesus Christ is -unknown. At nine o'clock, went to the Richmond Hill theatre, to see the -opening of the Italian company. The house itself is a pretty little box -enough, but as bad as a box to sing in. We went to Mr. ——'s box, where -he was kind enough to give us seats. The first act was over, but we had -all the benefit of the second. I had much ado not to laugh: and when Mr. -——, that everlasting giggler, came and sat down beside me, I gave -myself up for lost. However, I did behave, in spite of two blue-bottles -of women, who by way of the sisters buzzed about the stage, singing -enough to set one's teeth on edge. Then came a very tall Dandini; by the -by, that man had a good bass voice, but Mr. —— said it was the finest -he had heard since <i>Zucchelli</i>. O tempora! O mores! Zucchelli, that -prince of delicious baritones! However, as I said, the man has a good -bass voice; there was also a sufficiently good Pompolino. Montresor -banged himself about, broke his time, and made some execrable flourishes -in the Prince, whereat the enlightened New Yorkians applauded mightily. -But the Prima Donna! but the Cenerentola! Cospetto di Venere, what a -figure, and what a face! Indeed she was the very thing for a lower -housemaid, and I think the Prince was highly to blame for removing her -from the station nature had evidently intended her for. She was old and -ugly, and worse than ugly, unpardonably common-looking, with a cast in -her eye, and a foot that, as Mr. —— observed, it would require a -<i>pretty considerable</i> large glass slipper to fit. Then she -sang—discords and dismay, how she did sing! I could not forbear -stealing a glance at ——: he applauded the sestett vehemently; but when -it came to that most touching "<i>nacqui al' affanno</i>," he wisely -interposed his handkerchief between the stage and his gracious -countenance. I thought of poor dear ——, and her sweet voice, and her -refined taste, and shuddered to hear this favourite of hers bedevilled -by such a Squalini. Now is it possible that people can be such fools as -to fancy this good in spite of their senses, or such earless asses -(that's a bull I suppose), as to suffer themselves to be <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>persuaded that -it is? Though why do I ask it? Oh yes, "very easily possible." Do not -half the people in London spend money and time without end, enduring -nightly penances—listening to what they can't understand, and couldn't -appreciate if they did? I suppose if I shall allow a hundred out of the -whole King's Theatre audience to know any thing whatever about music, I -am wide in my grant of comprehension. There was that virtuous youth, Mr. -——, who evidently ranks as one of the cognoscenti here, who exclaimed -triumphantly at the end of one of the perpetrations, "Well, after all, -there's nothing like Rossini." Handel, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, and -Weber, are <i>not</i>, that is certain.<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> I wish I could have seen Mr. —— -during that finale. Coming out, were joined by Mr. ——: brought him -home in the carriage with us. Gave him "Ye mariners of Spain," and some -cold tongue, to take<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> the taste of the Cenerentola out of his mouth. He -stayed some time. I like him enough: he is evidently a clever man, -though he does murder the King's English. (By the by, does <i>English</i>, -the tongue, belong, in America, to the King or the President—I wonder? -I should rather think, from my limited observations, that it was the -individual property of every freeborn citizen of the United States.) -Now, what on earth can I say to the worthy citizens, if they ask me what -I thought of the Italian opera? That it was very amusing—yes, that will -do nicely; that will be true, and not too direct a condemnation of their -good taste.</p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 7th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose late. Young —— breakfasted with us. How unfortunately plain he -is! His voice is marvellously like his father's, and it pleased me to -hear him speak therefore. He was talking to my father about the various -southern and western theatres, and bidding us expect to meet strange -coadjutors in those lost lands beyond the world. On one occasion, he -said, when he was acting Richard the Third, some of the underlings kept -their hats on while he was on the stage, whereat —— remonstrated, -requesting them in a whisper to uncover, as they were in the presence of -a king; to which admonition he received the following characteristic -reply: "Fiddlestick! I guess we know nothing about kings in this -country." Colonel —— called too; but D—— and I went off to church, -and left my father to entertain them. Met Mr. —— and Mr. ——, who -were coming to fetch us: went to Mr. ——'s pew. The music was very -delightful; but decidedly I do not like music in church. The less my -senses are appealed to in the house of prayer, the better for me and my -devotions. Although I have experienced excitement of a stern and -martial, and sometimes of a solemn, nature, from music, yet these melt -away, and its abiding influence with me is of a much softer kind: -therefore, in church, I had rather dispense with it, particularly when -they sing psalms, as they did to-day, to the tune of "Come dwell with -me, and be my love." I did not like the sermon much; there was effect in -it, painting, which I dislike. Staid the sacrament, the first I have -taken in this strange land. Mr. —— walked home with us: when he was -gone, Mr. —— and Mr. —— called. When they had all taken their -departure, settled accounts, wrote journal, wrote to my mother, came and -put away sundry things, and dressed for dinner. My<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> father dined with -Mr. ——: D—— and I dined <i>tête-à-tête</i>. Colonel —— came twice -through the pouring rain to look after our baggage for to-morrow; such -charity is unexampled.</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 8th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose (oh, horror!) at a quarter to five. Night was still brooding over -the earth. Long before I was dressed, the first voice I heard was that -of Colonel ——, come to look after our luggage, and see us off. To lend -my friend a thousand pounds (if I had it) I could—to lend him my horse, -perhaps I might; but to get up in the middle of the night, and come -dawdling in the grey cold hour of the morning upon damp quays, and among -dusty packages, except for my own flesh and blood, I could not. Yet this -worthy man did it for us; whence I pronounce that he must be half a -Quaker himself, for no common episcopal benevolence could stretch this -pitch. Dressed, and gathered together my things, and at six o'clock, -just as the night was folding its soft black wings, and rising slowly -from the earth, we took our departure from that mansion of little ease, -the American, and our fellow-lodgers the ants, and proceeded to the -Philadelphia steam-boat, which started from the bottom of Barclay -Street. We were recommended to this American Hotel as the best and most -comfortable in New York; and truly the charges were as high as one could -have paid at the Clarendon, in the land of comfort and taxation. The -wine was exorbitantly dear; champagne and claret about eleven shillings -sterling a bottle; sherry, port, and madeira, from nine to thirteen. The -rooms were a mixture of French finery and Irish disorder and dirt; the -living was by no means good; the whole house being conducted on a close -scraping system of inferior accommodations and extravagant charges. On a -sudden influx of visiters, sitting-rooms were converted into bed-rooms, -containing four and five beds. The number of servants was totally -inadequate to the work; and the articles of common use, such as knives -and spoons, were so scantily provided, that when the public table was -very full one day, the knives and forks for our dinner were obliged to -be washed from theirs; and the luxury of a carving-knife was not to be -procured at all on that occasion: it is true that they had sometimes as -many as two hundred and fifty guests at the ordinary. The servants, who, -as I said before, were just a quarter as many as the house required, had -no bed-rooms allotted to them, but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> slept <i>about</i> any where, in the -public rooms, or on sofas in drawing-rooms, let to private families. In -short, nothing can exceed the want of order, propriety, and comfort in -this establishment, except the enormity of the tribute it levies upon -pilgrims and wayfarers through the land.<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> And so, as I said, we -departed therefrom nothing loath.</p> - -<p>The morning was dull, dreary, and damp, which I regretted very much. The -steam-boat was very large and commodious, as all these conveyances are. -I enquired of one of the passengers what the power of the engine was: he -replied that he did not exactly know, but that he thought it was about -forty-horse power; and that, when going at speed, the engine struck -thirty times in a minute: this appeared to me a great number in so short -a time; but the weather shortly became wet and drizzly, and I did not -remain on deck to observe. My early rising had made me very sleepy, so I -came down to the third deck to sleep. These steam-boats have three -stories; the upper one is, as it were, a roofing or terrace on the leads -of the second, a very desirable station when the weather is neither too -foul nor too fair; a burning sun being, I should think, as little -desirable there as a shower of rain. The second floor or deck has the -advantage of the ceiling above, and yet, the sides being completely -open, it is airy, and allows free sight of the shores on either hand. -Chairs, stools, and benches, are the furniture of these two decks. The -one below, or third floor downwards, in fact, the <i>ground floor</i>, being -the one near the water, is a spacious room completely roofed and walled -in, where the passengers take their meals, and resort if the weather is -unfavourable. At the end of this room is a smaller cabin for the use of -the ladies, with beds and a sofa, and all the conveniences necessary, if -they should like to be sick; whither I came and slept till breakfast -time. Vigne's account of the pushing, thrusting, rushing, and devouring -on board a western steam-boat at meal times had prepared me for rather -an awful spectacle; but this, I find, is by no means the case in these -more civilised parts, and every thing was conducted with perfect order, -propriety, and civility. The breakfast was good, and served and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> eaten -with decency enough. Came up on the upper deck, and walked about with my -father. The width of the river struck me as remarkable; but the shores -were flat, and for the most part uninteresting, except for the rich and -various tints which the thickets of wood presented, and which are as -superior in brilliancy and intenseness to our autumnal colouring as -their gorgeous skies are to ours. Opposite the town of Amboy, the -Raritan opens into a magnificent lake-like expanse round the extreme -point of Staten Island.<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> As the shores on either side, however, were -not very interesting, I finished reading Combe's book. There is much -sound philosophy in it; but I do not think it altogether establishes the -main point that he wishes to make good—the truth of phrenology, and the -necessity of its being adopted as the only science of the human mind. -His general assertions admit of strong individual exceptions, which, I -think, go far towards invalidating the generality. However, 'tis not a -full development of his own system, but, as it were, only an -introduction to it; and his own admissions of the obscurity and -uncertainty in which that system is still involved necessarily enforces -a suspension of judgment, until its practical results have become more -manifest, and in some measure borne witness to the truth of his theory. -At about half-past ten we reached the place where we leave the river, to -proceed across a part of the State of New Jersey to the Delaware. The -landing was beyond measure wretched: the shore shelved down to the -water's edge; and its marshy, clayey, sticky soil, rendered doubly soft -and squashy by the damp weather, was strewn over with broken potsherds, -stones, and bricks, by way of pathway; these, however, presently failed, -and some slippery planks half immersed in mud were the only roads to the -coaches that stood ready to receive the passengers of the steam-boat. -Oh, these coaches! English eye hath not seen, English ear hath not -heard, nor hath it entered into the heart of Englishmen to conceive the -surpassing clumsiness and wretchedness of these leathern inconveniences. -They are shaped something like boats, the sides being merely leathern -pieces, removable at pleasure, but which, in bad weather, are buttoned<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> -down, to protect the inmates from the wet. There are three seats in this -machine; the middle one, having a movable leathern strap, by way of a -dossier, runs between the carriage doors, and lifts away to permit the -egress and ingress of the occupants of the other seats. Into the one -facing the horses D—— and I put ourselves; presently two young ladies -occupied the opposite one; a third lady, and a gentleman of the same -party, sat in the middle seat, into which my father's huge bulk was also -squeezed; finally, another man belonging to the same party ensconced -himself between the two young ladies. Thus the two seats were filled, -each with three persons, and there should by rights have been a third on -ours; for this nefarious black hole on wheels is intended to carry nine. -However, we profited little by the space, for, letting alone that there -is not really and truly room for more than two human beings of common -growth and proportions on each of these seats, the third place was amply -filled up with baskets and packages of ours, and huge <i>undoubleableup</i> -coats and cloaks of my father's.</p> - -<p>For the first few minutes I thought I must have fainted from the -intolerable sensation of smothering which I experienced. However, the -leathers having been removed, and a little more air obtained, I took -heart of grace, and resigned myself to my fate. Away wallopped the four -horses, trotting with their front and galloping with their hind legs; -and away went we after them, bumping, thumping, jumping, jolting, -shaking, tossing, and tumbling, over the wickedest road, I do think the -cruellest hard-heartedest road, that ever wheel rumbled upon. Thorough -bog and marsh, and ruts wider and deeper than any christian ruts I ever -saw, with the roots of trees protruding across our path; their boughs -every now and then giving us an affectionate scratch through the -windows; and, more than once, a half-demolished trunk or stump lying in -the middle of the road lifting us up, and letting us down again, with -most awful variations of our poor coach body from its natural position. -Bones of me! what a road!<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> Even my father's solid proportions could -not keep their level, but were jerked up to the roof and down again -every three minutes. Our companions seemed nothing dismayed by these -wondrous performances of a coach and four,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> but laughed and talked -incessantly, the young ladies, at the very top of their voices, and with -the national nasal twang.<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> The conversation was much of the <i>genteel</i> -shopkeeper kind; the wit of the ladies, and the gallantry of the -gentlemen, savouring strongly of tapes and yard measures, and the -shrieks of laughter of the whole set enough to drive one into a frenzy. -The ladies were all pretty; two of them particularly so, with delicate -fair complexions, and beautiful grey eyes: how I wish they could have -held their tongues for two minutes! We had not long been in the coach -before one of them complained of being dreadfully sick.<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> This, in -such a space, and with seven near neighbours! Fortunately she was near -the window; and during our whole fourteen miles of purgatory she -alternately leaned from it overcome with sickness, then reclined -languishingly in the arms of her next neighbour, and then, starting up -with amazing vivacity, joined her voice to the treble duet of her two -pretty companions, with a superiority of shrillness that might have been -the pride and envy of Billingsgate. 'Twas enough to bother a rookery! -The country through which we passed was woodland, flat, and without -variety, save what it derived from the wondrous richness and brilliancy -of the autumnal foliage. Here indeed decay is beautiful; and nature -appears more gorgeously<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> clad in this her fading mantle, than in all the -summer's flush of bloom in our less-favoured climates.<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> I noted -several beautiful wild flowers growing among the underwood; some of -which I have seen adorning with great dignity our most cultivated -gardens.<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> None of the trees had any size or appearance of age: they -are the second growth, which have sprung from the soil once possessed by -a mightier race of vegetables. The quantity of mere underwood, and the -number of huge black stumps rising in every direction a foot or two from -the soil, bear witness to the existence of fine forest timber. The few -cottages and farm-houses which we passed reminded me of similar -dwellings in France and Ireland; yet the peasantry here have not the -same excuse for disorder and dilapidation as either the Irish or French. -The farms had the same desolate, untidy, untended look: the gates -broken, the fences carelessly put up, or ill repaired; the -farming-utensils sluttishly scattered about a littered yard, where the -pigs seemed to preside by undisputed right; house-windows broken, and -stuffed with paper or clothes; dishevelled women, and barefooted -anomalous-looking human young things; none of the stirring life and -activity which such places present in England and Scotland; above all, -none of the enchanting mixture of neatness, order, and rustic elegance -and comfort, which render so picturesque the surroundings of a farm, and -the various belongings of agricultural labour in my own dear -country.<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> The fences struck me<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> as peculiar; I never saw any such in -England. They are made of rails of wood placed horizontally, and meeting -at obtuse angles, so forming a zig-zag wall of wood, which runs over the -country like the herring-bone seams of a flannel petticoat. At each of -the angles two slanting stakes, considerably higher than the rest of the -fence, were driven into the ground, crossing each other at the top, so -as to secure the horizontal rails in their position.<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a></p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span></p><p>There was every now and then a soft vivid strip of turf, along the -road-side, that made me long for a horse. Indeed the whole road would -have been a delightful ride, and was a most bitter drive. At the end of -fourteen miles we turned into a swampy field, the whole fourteen -coachfuls of us, and, by the help of Heaven, bag and baggage were packed -into the coaches which stood on the rail-way ready to receive us. The -carriages were not drawn by steam, like those on the Liverpool rail-way, -but by horses, with the mere advantage in speed afforded by the iron -ledges, which, to be sure, compared with our previous progress through -the ruts, was considerable. Our coachful got into the first carriage of -the train, escaping, by way of especial grace, the dust which one's -predecessors occasion. This vehicle had but two seats, in the usual -fashion; each of which held four of us. The whole inside was lined with -blazing scarlet leather, and the windows <i>shaded</i> with stuff curtains of -the same refreshing colour; which, with full complement of passengers, -on a fine, sunny, American summer's day, must make as pretty a little -miniature hell as may be, I should think. The baggage-waggon, which went -before us, a little obstructed the view. The road was neither pretty nor -picturesque; but still fringed on each side with the many-coloured -woods, whose rich tints made variety even in sameness. This rail-road is -an infinite blessing; 'tis not yet finished, but shortly will be so, and -then the whole of that horrible fourteen miles will be performed in -comfort and decency in less than half the time. In about an hour and a -half we reached the end of our rail-road part of the journey, and found -another steam-boat waiting for us, when we all embarked on the -Delaware.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> Again, the enormous width of the river struck me with -astonishment and admiration. Such huge bodies of water mark out the -country through which they run, as the future abode of the most -extensive commerce and greatest maritime power in the universe. The -banks presented much the same features as those of the Raritan, though -they were not quite so flat, and more diversified with scattered -dwellings, villages, and towns. We passed Bristol and Burlington, -stopping at each of them to take up passengers.<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> I sat working, -having finished my book, not a little discomfited by the pertinacious -staring of some of my fellow-travellers. One woman, in particular, after -wandering round me in every direction, at last came and sat down -opposite me, and literally gazed me out of countenance. One improvement -they have adopted on board these boats is to forbid smoking, except in -the fore part of the vessel. I wish they would suggest that, if the -gentlemen would refrain from spitting about too, it would be highly -agreeable to the female part of the community. The universal practice -here of this disgusting trick makes me absolutely sick: every place is -made a perfect piggery of—street, stairs, steam-boat, everywhere—and -behind the scenes; on the stage at rehearsal I have been shocked and -annoyed beyond expression by this horrible custom. To-day, on board the -boat, it was a perfect shower of saliva all the time; and I longed to be -released from my fellowship with these very obnoxious chewers of -tobacco.<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> At about four o'clock we reached Philadelphia, having -performed the journey between that and New York (a distance of a hundred -miles) in less than ten hours, in spite of bogs, ruts, and all other -impediments. The manager came to look after us and our goods;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> and we -were presently stowed into a coach, which conveyed us to the Mansion -House, the best-reputed inn in Philadelphia. On asking for our -bed-rooms, they showed D—— and myself into a double-bedded room. On my -remonstrating against this, the chambermaid replied, that they were not -accustomed to allow lodgers so <i>much room</i> as a room apiece. However, -upon my insisting, they gave me a little nest just big enough to turn -about in, but where, at least, I can be by myself. Dressed, and dined at -five; after dinner, wrote journal till tea-time, and then came to bed.</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 9th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at half-past eight. Went and took a bath. On my way thither, drove -through two melancholy-looking squares, which reminded me a little of -poor old Queen Square in Bristol. The ladies' baths were closed, but, as -I was not particular, they gave me one in the part of the house usually -allotted to the men's use. I was much surprised to find two baths in one -room, but it seems to me that the people of this country have an -aversion to solitude, whether eating, sleeping, or under any other -circumstances.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I made acquaintance with a bewitching Newfoundland puppy, whom I greatly -coveted. Came home, dressed, and breakfasted. After breakfast, righted -my things, and wrote journal. Took a walk with my father through some of -the principal streets. The town is perfect silence and solitude, -compared with New York; there is a greater air of age about it too, -which pleases me. The red houses are not so fiercely red, nor the white -facings so glaringly white; in short, it has not so new and flaunting a -look, which is a great recommendation to me. The city is regularly -built, the streets intersecting each other at right angles. We passed -one or two pretty buildings in pure white marble, and the Bank in -Chestnut Street, which is a beautiful little copy of the Parthenon. The -pure, cold, clear-looking marble suits well with the severe and -unadorned style of architecture; and is in harmony, too, with the -extreme brilliancy of the sky, and clearness of the atmosphere of this -country.<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> We passed another larger building, also a bank, in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> the -Corinthian style, which did not please me so much. The shops here are -much better looking than those at New York: the windows are larger, and -more advantageously constructed for the display of goods; and there did -not appear to be the same anomalous mixture of vendibles, as in the New -York shops. The streets were very full of men hurrying to the -town-house, to give their votes. It is election time, and much -excitement subsists with regard to the choice of the future -President.<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> The democrats or radicals are for the re-election of -General Jackson, but the aristocratic party, which here at all events is -the strongest, are in favour of Henry Clay. Here is the usual quantity -of shouting and breaking windows that we are accustomed to on these -occasions. I saw a caricature of Jackson and Van Buren, his chief -supporter, which was entitled "The King and his Minister." Van Buren -held a crown in his hand, and the devil was approaching Jackson with a -sceptre.—Came in at half-past four, dressed for dinner: they gave us an -excellent one. The master of this house was, it seems, once a man of -independent fortune, and a great <i>bon vivant</i>. He has retained from -thence a fellow-feeling for his guests, and does by them as he would be -done by. After dinner, worked till tea-time; after tea, wrote journal, -and now I'll go to bed. We are attended here by a fat old lively negro, -by name Henry, who canters about in our behalf with great alacrity, and -seems wrapt in much wonderment at many of our proceedings. By the by, -the black who protected our baggage from the steam-boat was ycleped -<i>Oliver Cromwell</i>. I have begun Grahame's History of America, and like -it "mainly," as the old plays say.</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 10th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight. After breakfast, trimmed a cap, and wrote to dear ——. -The streets were in an uproar all night, people shouting and bonfires -blazing; in short, electioneering fun, which seems to be pretty much the -same all the world over. Clay has it hollow here, they say: I wonder -what Colonel —— will say to that. At twelve o'clock, sallied forth -with D—— to rehearsal. The theatre is very pretty; not large but well -sized, and, I should think, favourably constructed for the voice.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span></p><p>Unless Aldabella is irresistibly lovely, as well as wicked, there is no -accounting for the conduct of Fazio. My own idea of her, as well as -Milman's description, is every thing that can be conceived of splendid -in beauty, sparkling in wit, graceful in deportment, gorgeous in -apparel, and deep and dangerous in crafty wiliness; in short, the old -serpent in the shape of Mrs. ——. I wish Mrs. —— would act that part: -I could act it well enough, but she would both act and look it, to the -very life. After rehearsal, walked about the town in quest of some -<i>coques de perle</i> for my Bianca dress: could not procure any. I like -this town extremely: there is a look of comfort and cleanliness, and -withal of age about it, which pleases me. It is quieter, too, than New -York, and though not so gay, for that very reason is more to my fancy; -the shops, too, have a far better appearance. New York always gave me -the idea of an irregular collection of temporary buildings, erected for -some casual purpose, full of life, animation, and variety, but not meant -to endure for any length of time; a fair, in short. This place has a -much more substantial, sober, and city-like appearance. Came home at -half-past two. In the hall met Mr. ——, who is grown ten years younger -since I saw him last: it always delights me to see one of my -fellow-passengers, and I am much disappointed in not finding —— here. -Dined at three; after dinner, read my father some of my journal; went on -with letter to ——, and then went and dressed myself. Took coffee, and -adjourned to the theatre. The house was very full, but not so full as -the Park on the first night of his acting in New York, which accounts -for the greater stillness of the audience. I watched my father narrowly -through his part to-night with great attention and some consequent -fatigue, and the conclusion I have come to is this: that though his -workmanship may be, and is, far finer <i>in the hand</i> than that of any -other artist I ever saw, yet its very minute accuracy and refinement -renders it unfit for the frame in which it is exhibited. Whoever should -paint a scene calculated for so large a space as a theatre, and destined -to be viewed at the distance from which an audience beholds it, with the -laborious finish and fine detail of a miniature, would commit a great -error in judgment. Nor would he have the least right to complain, -although the public should prefer the coarser yet far more effective -work of a painter, who, neglecting all refinement and niceness of -execution, should merely paint with such full colouring, and breadth and -boldness of touch, as to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> produce in the wide space he is called upon to -fill, and upon the remote senses he appeals to, the <i>effect</i> of that -which he intends to represent. Indeed he is the better artist of the -two, though probably not the most intellectual man. For it is the part -of such a one to know exactly what will best convey to the mass of mind -and feeling to which he addresses himself the emotions and passions -which he wishes them to experience.<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> Now the great beauty of all my -father's performances, but particularly of Hamlet, is a wonderful -accuracy in the detail of the character which he represents; an accuracy -which modulates the emphasis of every word, the nature of every gesture, -the expression of every look; and which renders the whole a most -laborious and minute study, toilsome in the conception and acquirement, -and most toilsome in the execution. But the result, though the natural -one, is not such as he expects, as the reward of so much labour.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> Few -persons are able to follow such a performance with the necessary -attention, and it is almost as great an exertion to see it -<i>understandingly</i>, as to act it. The amazing study of it requires a -study in those who are to appreciate it, and, as I take it, this is far -from being what the majority of spectators are either capable or -desirous of doing; the actor loses his pains, and they have but little -pleasure. Those who perform, and those who behold a play, have but a -certain proportion of power of exciting, and capability of being -excited. If, therefore, the actor expends his power of exciting, and his -audience's power of being excited, upon the detail of the piece, and -continues through five whole acts to draw from both, the main and -striking points, those of strongest appeal, those calculated most to -rouse at once, and gratify the emotions of the spectator, have not the -same intensity or vigour that they would have had, if the powers of both -actor and audience had been reserved to give them their fullest effect. -A picture requires light and shadow; and the very relief that throws -some of the figures in a fine painting into apparent obscurity, in -reality enhances the effect produced by those over which the artist has -shed a stronger light. Every note in the most expressive song does not -require a peculiar expression; and an air sung with individual emphasis -on each note would be utterly unproductive of the desired effect. All -things cannot have all their component parts equal, and "nothing -pleaseth but rare accidents." This being so, I think that acting the -best which skilfully husbands the actor's and spectator's powers, and -puts forth the whole of the one, to call forth the whole of the other, -occasionally only; leaving the intermediate parts sufficiently level, to -allow him and them to recover the capability of again producing, and -again receiving, such impressions. It is constant that our finest nerves -deaden and dull from over-excitement, and require repose, before they -regain their acute power of sensation. At the same time, I am far from -advocating that most imperfect conception and embodying of a part which -Kean allows himself: literally acting detached passages alone, and -leaving all the others, and the entire character, indeed, utterly -destitute of unity, or the semblance of any consistency whatever. But -Kean and my father are immediately each other's antipodes, and, in -adopting their different styles of acting, it is evident that each has -been guided as much by his own physical and intellectual individuality, -as by any fixed principle of art. The one, Kean,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> possesses particular -physical qualifications; an eye like an orb of light, a voice, -exquisitely touching and melodious in its tenderness, and in the harsh -dissonance of vehement passion terribly true; to these he adds the -intellectual ones of vigour, intensity, amazing power of concentrating -effect; these give him an entire mastery over his audience in all -striking, sudden, impassioned passages, in fulfilling which he has -contented himself, leaving unheeded what he probably could not compass, -the unity of conception, the refinement of detail, and evenness of -execution.<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> My father possesses certain physical defects, a faintness -of colouring in the face and eye, a weakness of voice; and the -corresponding intellectual deficiencies, a want of intensity, vigour, -and concentrating power: these circumstances have led him (probably -unconsciously) to give his attention and study to the finer and more -fleeting shades of character, the more graceful and delicate -manifestations of feeling, the exquisite variety of all minor parts, the -classic keeping of a highly-wrought whole; to all these, polished and -refined tastes, an acute sense of the beauty of harmonious proportions, -and a native grace, gentleness, and refinement of mind and manner, have -been his prompters; but they cannot inspire those startling and -tremendous bursts of passion, which belong to the highest walks of -tragedy, and to which he never gave their fullest expression. I fancy my -aunt Siddons united the excellences of both these styles. But to return -to my father's Hamlet: every time I see it, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>something strikes me afresh -in the detail. Nothing in my mind can exceed the exquisite beauty of his -last "Go on—I follow thee," to the ghost. The full gush of deep and -tender faith, in spite of the awful mystery, to whose unfolding he is -committing his life, is beautiful beyond measure. It is distinct, and -wholly different from the noble, rational, philosophic conviction, "And -for my soul, what can it do to that?" It is full of the unutterable -fondness of a believing heart, and brought to my mind, last night, those -holy and lovely words of scripture, "Perfect love casteth out fear:" it -enchanted me.<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> There is one thing in which I do not believe my father -ever has been, or ever will be, excelled; his high and noble bearing, -his gallant, graceful, courteous deportment; his perfect good-breeding -on the stage; unmarked alike by any peculiarity of time, place, or self -(except peculiar grace and beauty). He appears to me the beau ideal of -the courtly, thorough-bred, chivalrous gentleman, from the days of the -admirable Crichton down to those of George the Fourth. Coming home after -the play, the marble buildings in the full moonlight reminded me of the -Ghost in Hamlet: they looked like pale majestic spirits, cold, calm, and -colourless.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 11th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose rather late. After breakfast, wrote journal; at twelve, went to -rehearsal.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span></p><p>After rehearsal, came home, habited, and went to the riding-school to -try some horses. <i>Merci de moi!</i> what quadrupeds! How they did wallop -and shamble about; poor half-broken dumb brutes! they know no better; -and as the natives here are quite satisfied with their shuffling, -rollicking, mongrel pace, half trot, half canter, why it is not worth -while to break horses in a christian-like fashion for them.<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> I found -something that I think my father can ride with tolerable comfort, but -must go again to-morrow and see after something for myself. Came home: -the enchanting Mr. Head has allowed me a piano-forte; but in bringing it -into the room, the stupid slave broke one of its legs off, whereat I was -like to faint, for I thought Mr. Head would wish me hanged therefor. -Nothing can exceed the civility of the people here, and the house is -extremely well kept, quiet, and comfortable. Came home in high delight -with this Quaker city, which is indeed very pretty and pleasant. Played -on the piano: dressed for dinner. After dinner, practised till tea-time, -finished journal, discussed metaphysics with D——, for which I am a -fool; wrote to-day's journal, and now to bed. I have a dreadful cold and -cough, and have done nothing but hack and snivel the whole day long: -this is a bad preparation for to-morrow's work. Howsoever——</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 12th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight. After breakfast, sat writing journal and letter to ——. -<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>At half-past eleven, went to rehearsal. Afterwards walked down to the -riding-school with my father. The horse I was to look at had not -arrived; but my father saw the grey. We were there for some time; and -during that whole some time a tall, thin, unhappy-looking gentleman, who -had gotten up upon a great hulking rawboned horse, kept trotting round -and round, with his legs dangling down, <i>sans</i> stirrups, at the rate of -a mile and a quarter an hour; occasionally ejaculating in the mildest of -tones, "keome—keome up;" whereat the lively brute, nothing persuaded, -proceeded in the very same pace, at the very same rate; and this went on -till I wondered at the man and the beast. Came home and put out things -for the theatre. My cold and cough are dreadful. After dinner, -practised: invented and executed a substitute for the <i>coques de perle</i> -in my Bianca dress; and lay down to rest a little before my work. At -six, went to the theatre: the house was very full; and D—— and my -father say that I was extremely ungracious in my acknowledgment of their -greeting. I cannot tell; I did not mean to be so; I made them three -courtesies, and what could woman do more? Of course, I can neither feel -nor look so glad to see them as I am to see my own dear London people: -neither can I be as profound in my obeisance, as when my audience is -civil enough to rise to me: "there is differences, look you."</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>My Fazio had a pair of false black whiskers on, which distilled a black -stripe of trickling cement down his cheeks, and kept me in agony every -time he had to embrace me. My voice was horrible to hear; alternately -like Mrs. —— and ——, and every now and then it was all I could do to -utter at all. This audience is the most unapplausive I ever acted to, -not excepting my <i>excitable</i> friends north of the Tweed. They were very -attentive, certainly, but how they did make me work! 'Tis amazing how -much an audience loses by this species of hanging back, even where the -silence proceeds from unwillingness to interrupt a good performance: -though in reality it is the greatest compliment an actor can receive, -yet he is deprived by that very stillness of half his power. Excitement -is reciprocal between the performer and the audience: he creates it in -them, and receives it back again from them; and in that last scene in -Fazio, half the effect that I produce is derived from the applause -which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> I receive, the very noise and tumult of which tends to heighten -the nervous energy which the scene itself begets. I know that my aunt -Siddons has frequently said the same thing. And besides the above reason -for applause, the physical powers of an actor require, after any -tremendous exertion, the rest and regathering of breath and strength, -which the interruption of the audience affords him; moreover, as 'tis -the conventional mode of expressing approbation in a theatre, it is -chilling and uncomfortable to go toiling on, without knowing whether, as -the maidservants say, "one gives satisfaction or no." They made noise -enough, however, at the end of the play. Came home, supped, and to bed; -weary to death, and with a voice like a cracked bagpipe.</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 13th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at half-past eight. After breakfast, wrote journal; practised for -an hour; got things ready for to-morrow; put on my habit, which I had no -sooner done than the perverse clouds began to rain. The horses came at -two, but the weather was so bad that I sent them away again. Practised -for another hour, read a canto in Dante, and dressed for dinner. After -dinner, worked and practised. Came to my own room, and tried to scribble -something for the Mirror, at my father's request; the editors having -made an especial entreaty to him that I might write something for them, -and also sit to some artist for them. I could not accomplish any thing, -and they must just take something that I have by me: as for my -physiognomy, that they shall certainly not have with my own good leave. -I will never expend so much useless time again as to sit for my picture; -nor will I let any unhappy painter again get abused for painting me as I -am, which is any thing but what I look like. Lawrence alone could do it: -there is no other that could see my spirit through my face; and as for -the face without that, the less that is seen of it the better. Came down -to tea, and found a young gentleman sitting with my father; one Mr. -——.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>He was a pretty-spoken <i>genteel</i> youth enough: he drank tea with us, and -offered to ride with me. He is, it seems, a great fortune; consequently, -I suppose (in spite of his inches), a great man. Now I'll go to bed: my -cough's enough to kill a horse.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 14th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose late; so late that, by the time I had breakfasted, it was no longer -time to go to church.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Finished my first letter to ——. Mr. —— called, and told us that he -was going about <i>agitating</i>, and that Jackson was certainly to be -re-elected.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>At three o'clock D—— and I sallied forth to go to church. Following -the silver voices of the Sabbath bells, as they called the worshippers -to the house of prayer, we entered a church with a fine simple façade, -and found ourselves in the midst of a Presbyterian congregation. 'Tis -now upwards of eight years since, a school girl, I used to attend a -dissenters' chapel. The form of worship, though displeasing to me in -itself, borrowed a charm to-day from old association. How much of the -past it did recall!</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Came home and dressed for dinner. After dinner, half-killed myself with -laughter over an Irish version of Fazio, ycleped Grimaldi, from which -the author swears Milman has shamefully filched the plot, characters, -and even the language, I believe, of his drama. A gentleman of the -press, by name ——, paid us an evening visit. He seems an intelligent -young man enough; and when he spoke of the autumnal woods, by the Oneida -lake, his expressions were poetical and enthusiastic; and he pleased -me.<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> He seems to think much of having had the honour of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> -corresponding with sundry of the small literati of London. <i>Je lui en -fais mon compliment.</i> When he was gone, wrote another letter to ——; -journal, and now to bed.</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 15th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight; took a hot bath. The more I read of Grahame, the better I -like him and his history. Those early settlers in Massachusetts were -fine fellows, indeed; and Cotton, one of the finest samples of a -Christian priest imaginable. After breakfast, went to rehearsal. The day -was cold, but beautifully bright and clear. The pure, fresh, -invigorating air, and gay sunlight, together with the delightfully clean -streets, and pretty mixture of trees and buildings in this nice town, -caused me to rejoice, as I walked along.<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> After rehearsal, saw -Sinclair and his wife. So—we are to act the Gamester here. Went and -ordered a dress for that same, my own being at New York. Came home, put -out things for the theatre, practised an hour; dined at three. After -dinner, read a canto in Dante: he is my admiration!—great, great -master!—a philosopher profound, as all poets should be; a glorious -poet, as I wish all philosophers were. Sketched till dark. Chose a -beautiful claret-coloured velvet for Mrs. Beverley, which will cost Miss -Kemble eleven guineas, by this living light. At six, went to the -theatre. I never beheld any thing more gorgeous than the sky at sunset. -Autumn is an emperor here, clothed in crimson and gold, and canopied -with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> ruddy glowing skies. Yet I like the sad russet cloak of our own -autumnal woods; I like the sighing voice of his lament through the -vaporous curtain that rises round his steps; I like the music of the -withered leaves that rustle in his path; and oh, above all, the solemn -thoughts that wait upon him, as he goes stripping the trees of their -bright foliage, leaving them like the ungarlanded columns of a deserted -palace. The play was Romeo and Juliet. My father was the "youngest of -that name," for want of a better, or, rather, of a worse. How beautiful -this performance must have been, when the youthful form made that appear -natural which now seems the triumph of art over nature. Garrick said, -that to act Romeo required a grey head upon green shoulders. Indeed, -'tis difficult! Oh, that our sapient judges did but know half how -difficult. It is delightful to act with my father. One's imagination -need toil but little, to see in him the very thing he represents; -whereas, with all other Romeos, although they were much younger men, I -have had to do double work with that useful engine, my fancy: first, to -get rid of the material obstacle staring me in the face, and then to -substitute some more congenial representative of that sweetest vision of -youth and love. Once, only, this was not necessary.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The audience here are, without exception, the most disagreeable I ever -played to. Not a single hand did they give the balcony scene, or my -father's scene with the friar: they are literally immovable. They -applauded vehemently at the end of my draught scene, and a great deal at -the end of the play; but they are, nevertheless, intolerably dull; and -it is all but impossible to act to them.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The man who acted Capulet did it better than any Capulet I ever acted -with; and the nurse, besides looking admirably, acted her part very -well: and 'tis hard to please me, after poor dear old Mrs. Davenport. -The house was literally crammed from floor to ceiling. Came home tired -and hoarse; though my voice was a good deal better to-day. Mr. -—— supped with us. My father expected a visit from the haggling Boston -manager, and chose to have a witness to the conference.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 16th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at nine. After breakfast, read a canto in Dante; wrote journal; -practised for an hour. The Boston manager, it seems, does not approve of -our terms; and after bargaining till past two o'clock last night with my -father, the latter, wearied out with his illiberal trafficking, and -coarse vulgarity of manner, declined the thing altogether: so, unless -the gentleman thinks better of the matter, we shall not go to Boston -this winter.<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> At one o'clock, habited; and at two, rode out with my -father. The day was most enchanting, mild, bright, and sunny; but the -roads were deplorable, and the country utterly dull. My horse was a -hard-mouthed half broken beast, without pace of any christian kind -soever; a perfect rack on hoofs: how it did jog and jumble me! However, -my bones are young, and my courage good, and I don't mind a little hard -work; but the road was so villanously bad, and the surrounding country -so weary, dull, stale, and unprofitable, that I was heartily sick of my -ride, when we turned towards Fairmount, the site of some large -water-works on the Schuylkill, by which Philadelphia is supplied with -water. On our right I descried, over some heights, a castellated -building of some extent, whose formidable appearance at least bespoke an -arsenal; but it was the entrance to the Penitentiary instead: and -presently the river, bright, and broad, and placid as a lake, with its -beautiful banks, and rainbow-tinted woods, opened upon us. We crossed a -covered wooden bridge, and followed the water's edge. The rich colours -of the foliage cast a warm light over the transparent face of the -mirror-like stream; and, far along the winding shores, a mingled mantle -of gorgeous glowing tints lay over the woody banks, and was reflected in -the still sunny river. Indeed, it was lovely! But our time was growing -short, and we had to turn home; which we did by a pleasant and more -direct path. My horse, towards the end of the ride, got more manageable; -and I doubt whether it would not be wiser to continue to ride it than -try <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span>another, which may be just as bad, and, moreover, a <i>stranger</i>. My -riding-cap seemed to excite universal marvel wherever we passed. We came -in at five o'clock; dressed, and dined. Just as I had finished dinner, a -most beautiful, fragrant, and delicious nosegay was brought to me, with -a very laconic note from a Philadelphia "<i>friend</i>," dashed under, as -though from a Quaker. Whoever 'tis from, Jew or Gentile, Puritan or -Pagan, he, she, or it hath my most unbounded gratitude. Spent an -ecstatic half hour in arranging my flowers in glasses; gave orders about -my Mrs. Beverley's gown, and began marking journal; while doing so, a -card was brought up.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Presently Mr. —— came in, another of our Pacific fellow-sailors. It -pleases me to see them: they seem to bring me nearer to England. He gave -a dreadful account of his arrival in Baltimore, and of the state to -which the cholera had reduced that city. Mr. —— amused me, by telling -me that he had heard my behaviour canvassed with much censure by some -man or other, who met me at Mr. ——'s, and who was horrified at my -taking up a book, and then a newspaper, and, in short, being neither -tragical nor comical, at a dinner-party. Of course, I must seem a very -strange animal to them all; but they seem just as strange to me.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 17th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight. After breakfast, put out things for the theatre. At -eleven, went to rehearsal. It seems there has been fighting, and -rushing, and tearing of coats at the box-office; and one man has made -forty dollars by purchasing and reselling tickets at an increased price. -After rehearsal, came home. Mr. —— called, and sat some time: he sails -for England on the twenty-fourth. England, oh England!—yet, after all, -what is there in that name? It is not my home; it is not those beloved -ones' whose fellowship is half the time what we call <i>home</i>. Is it -really and truly the yearning of the roots for the soil in which they -grew? Perhaps it is only the restless roving spirit, that still would be -where it is not. I know not. His description of American life and -manners (and he knows both, for he has lived constantly in this country, -and his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>particularities are, I believe, fairly divided between it and -his own,) is any thing but agreeable.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The dignified and graceful influence which married women, among us, -exercise over the tone of manners, uniting the duties of home to the -charms of social life, and bearing, at once, like the orange-tree, the -fair fruits of maturity with the blossoms of their spring, is utterly -unknown here. Married women are either house-drudges and nursery-maids, -or, if they appear in society, comparative ciphers; and the retiring, -modest, youthful bearing, which among us distinguishes girls of fifteen -or sixteen, is equally unknown. Society is entirely led by chits, who in -England would be sitting behind a pinafore; the consequence is, that it -has neither the elegance, refinement, nor the propriety which belongs to -ours; but is a noisy, rackety, vulgar congregation of flirting boys and -girls, alike without style or decorum.<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> When Mr. —— was gone,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> -practised till dinner-time. After dinner, practised for half an hour; -marked journal, till time to go to the theatre; took coffee, and away. -The house was crammed again, and the play better acted than I have ever -seen it out of London, though Mrs. Candour had stuck upon her head a -bunch of feathers which threatened the gods; and Lady Sneerwell had -dragged all her hair off her face, which needed to be as pretty as it -was, to endure such an exposure. I do not wonder the New Yorkians<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> did -not approve of my Lady Teazle. If, as —— tells me, Mrs. —— is their -idea of the perfection of good-breeding, well may my delineation of a -lady be condemned as "nothing particular." Yet I am sorry I must -continue to lie under their censure, for I, unfortunately for myself, -have seen ladies, "ripe and real," who, from all I can see, hear, and -understand, differ widely from the good manners of their "beau ideal." -The fact is, I am not "<i>genteel</i>" enough, and I am conscious of it. The -play went off remarkably well. Came to bed at half-past eleven.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 18th.</i></h3> - -<p>Here is the end of October, the very mourning-time of the year with us, -and my room is full of flowers, and the sun is so bright and powerful, -that it is impossible to go out with a shawl, or without a parasol. Went -to rehearsal at twelve; at two, came in and habited; and at half-past -two, rode out with my father. We took the road to the Schuylkill at -once, through Arch Street, which is a fine, broad, long street, running -parallel with Chestnut Street. We walked along the road under the -intense sunlight that made all things look sleepy around. Turning -between some rising banks, through a defile where the road wound up a -hill, we caught a glimpse of a white house standing on the sunny slope -of a green rise. The undulating grounds around were all bathed in warm -light, relieved only by the massy shadows of the thick woods that -sheltered them. It was a bit of England.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Some good farming and tidy out-houses, and dependencies, completed the -resemblance, and made me think that this must be the dwelling of some of -my own country people. How can they live here? Here, even in the midst -of what is fair and peaceful in nature, I think my home would haunt me, -and the far-off chiming of the waves against her white shores resound in -my ears through the smooth flowing of the Schuylkill.<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> After pursuing -a level uninteresting road for some time, we turned<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> off to the right, -and, standing on the brow of a considerable declivity, had a most -enchanting glimpse of the Schuylkill and its woody shores. The river -makes a bend just above the water-works, and the curving banks scooping -themselves form a lovely little sunny bay. It was more like a lake, just -here, than a flowing stream. The sky was so blessedly serene, and the -air so still, that the pure deep-looking water appeared to sleep, while -the bright hues of the heavens, and the glowing lints of the woody -shores, were mirrored with wondrous vividness on its bosom. I never saw -such gorgeousness, and withal such perfect harmony of colouring. The -golden sky, the mingled green, brown, yellow, crimson, and dark<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> maroon, -that clothed the thickets; the masses of grey granite, with the vivid -mossy green that clung round them; the sunny purple waters; the warm red -colour of the road itself, as it wound down below, with a border of -fresh-looking turf on either side of it; the radiant atmosphere of rosy -light that hung over all; all combined to present a picture of perfect -enchantment. The eye was drunk with beauty.<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> How I though t of Mr. -——. Indeed a painter would have gone crazy over it, and I, who am not -a painter, was half crazy that I was not. Though if I had been, what -would it have availed? Such colours are from God's pallet, and mortal -hand may no more copy, than it could mingle them. We rode on through -scenery of the same description, passing in our way a farm and dairy, -where the cattle were standing, not in open pastureland, but in a corner -of forest-ground, all bright with the golden shedding of the trees; it -was very picturesque. A little runlet of water, too, that held the -middle of a tangled ravine, ran glittering like a golden snake through -the underwood, while the stems of the trees, and the light foliage on -the edge of the thick woody screens, were bathed in yellow sunshine. All -around was beautiful, and rich, and harmonious to the eye, and should -have been so to the spirit.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Returned home at about half-past five, dined at six; found another -beautiful nosegay waiting for me, from my unknown furnisher of sweets. -This is almost as tantalising as it is civil; and I would give half my -lovely flowers to find out who sends them to me. Distributed them all -over the room, and was as happy as a queen. Mr. —— called. My father -was obliged to go out upon business, so D—— and I had to entertain -that worthy youth. He seems to have a wonderful veneration for a parcel -of scribblers, whose names were never heard of in England, beyond the -limits of their own narrow coteries. But he speaks like an enthusiast of -the woods and waters of his glorious country, and I excuse his taste in -poetry. Now isn't this strange, that a man who can feel the amazing -might, majesty, and loveliness of nature, can endure for a moment the -mawkish scribbling of these poetasters? Verily, we be anomalous beasts.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="center">AUTUMN.</div></div> -<div class="stanza"><div class="i2">Thou comest not in sober guise,</div> -<div class="i3">In mellow cloak of russet clad—</div> -<div class="i2">Thine are no melancholy skies,</div> -<div class="i3">Nor hueless flowers pale and sad;</div> -<div class="i2">But, like an emperor, triumphing,</div> -<div class="i3">With gorgeous robes of Tyrian dyes,</div> -<div class="i2">Full flush of fragrant blossoming,</div> -<div class="i3">And glowing purple canopies.</div> -<div class="i2">How call ye this the season's fall,</div> -<div class="i3">That seems the pageant of the year,</div> -<div class="i2">Richer and brighter far than all</div> -<div class="i3">The pomp that spring and summer wear?</div> -<div class="i2">Red falls the westering light of day</div> -<div class="i3">On rock and stream and winding shore;</div> -<div class="i2">Soft woody banks and granite grey</div> -<div class="i3">With amber clouds are curtain'd o'er;</div> -<div class="i2">The wide clear waters sleeping lie</div> -<div class="i3">Beneath the evening's wings of gold,</div> -<div class="i2">And on their glassy breast the sky</div> -<div class="i3">And banks their mingled hues unfold.</div> -<div class="i2">Far in the tangled woods, the ground</div> -<div class="i3">Is strewn with fallen leaves, that lie</div> -<div class="i2">Like crimson carpets all around</div> -<div class="i3">Beneath a crimson canopy.</div> -<div class="i2">The sloping sun with arrows bright</div> -<div class="i3">Pierces the forest's waving maze;</div> -<div class="i2">The universe seems wrapt in light,—</div> -<div class="i3">A floating robe of rosy haze.</div> -<div class="i2">Oh, Autumn! thou art here a king;</div> -<div class="i3">And round thy throne the smiling Hours</div> -<div class="i2">A thousand fragrant tributes bring</div> -<div class="i3">Of golden fruits and blushing flowers.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>Oh, not upon thy fading fields and fells</div> -<div class="i1">In such rich garb doth Autumn come to thee,</div> -<div><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>My home!—but o'er thy mountains and thy dells</div> -<div class="i1">His footsteps fall slowly and solemnly.</div> -<div>Nor flower nor bud remaineth there to him,</div> -<div class="i1">Save the faint-breathing rose, that, round the year</div> -<div>Its crimson buds and pale soft blossoms dim</div> -<div class="i1">In lowly beauty constantly doth wear.</div> -<div>O'er yellow stubble lands, in mantle brown,</div> -<div class="i1">He wanders through the wan October light;</div> -<div>Still, as he goeth, slowly stripping down</div> -<div class="i1">The garlands green that were the Spring's delight.</div> -<div>At morn and eve thin silver vapours rise</div> -<div class="i1">Around his path; but sometimes at mid-day</div> -<div>He looks along the hills with gentle eyes,</div> -<div class="i1">That make the sallow woods and fields seem gay.</div> -<div>Yet something of sad sovereignty he hath—</div> -<div class="i1">A sceptre crown'd with berries ruby red;</div> -<div>And the cold sobbing wind bestrews his path</div> -<div class="i1">With wither'd leaves that rustle 'neath his tread;</div> -<div>And round him still, in melancholy state,</div> -<div class="i1">Sweet solemn thoughts of death and of decay,</div> -<div>In slow and hush'd attendance, ever wait,</div> -<div class="i1">Telling how all things fair must pass away.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 23d.</i></h3> - -<p>At ten o'clock, went to rehearsal. Rehearsed the Hunchback, and then -Fazio: this is tolerably hard work, with acting every night: we don't -steal our money, that's one comfort. Came home, found a letter for me in -a strange hand.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Went on with my letter to ——: while doing so, was interrupted by the -entrance of a strange woman, who sat herself down, apparently in much -confusion. She told me a story of great distress, and claimed my -assistance as a fellow-countrywoman. I had not a farthing of money: -D—— and my father were out; so I took the reference she gave me, and -promised to enquire into her condition. The greatest evil arising from -the many claims of this sort which are made upon us, wherever we go, is -the feeling of distrust and suspicion which they engender, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> sort -of excuse which they teach us to apply plausibly to our unwillingness to -answer such demands. "Oh, ten to one, an impostor," is soon said, and -instances enough may unfortunately be found to prove the probability of -such a conclusion. Yet in this sweeping condemnation one real case of -misery may be included, and that possibility should make us pause, for -'tis one that, if afterwards detected, may be the source of heavy -condemnation, and bitter regret to ourselves.<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The fact is, that, to give well, one should give equally one's trouble -with one's money: the one in all cases, the other where one's enquiries<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> -are satisfactorily answered.—Received a purple-bound gilt-edged -periodical, published at Boston, from Mr. ——.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The literary part of the book seems much on a par with that of similar -works in England, but there was a wide difference in the excellence of -the engravings. There was one from that pretty picture, the -Bride's-Maid; a coarse bad engraving, but yet how much of the sadness of -the original it recalled to me! It is a painful thing to look at: it -brings before one too much of the sorrow of life, of the anguish that -has been endured, that is daily, hourly, endured, in this prison-house -of torments. After dinner, went on writing to ——, till time to go to -the theatre. The house was not as full as I had expected, though a good -one enough. My father looked wonderfully well and young: there is -certainly some difference in acting with him; but this part fatigues me -horribly.</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 24th.</i></h3> - -<p>Went to rehearsal at eleven; at half-past one, went with D—— to find -out something about my yesterday's poor woman. The worst of it is, that -my trouble involves necessarily the trouble of somebody else, as I -cannot go trotting and exploring about by myself. The references were -sufficiently satisfactory, that is, they proved that she was poor, and -in distress, and willing to work. I gave her what I could, and the man -by whom she is employed seems anxious to afford her work: so I hope she -will get on a little. The "God bless you," of gratitude, even if uttered -by guileful and unworthy lips, is surely yet a blessing if it alights on -those who are seeking to do good. And if I were assured that that woman -was the veriest impostor under the sun, I still should hope her prayer -might descend with profit on my head; for I was sincere in my desire to -do well by her. Came home, wrote a letter to ——, finished one to ——; -and went to the theatre. It seems there have been</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>"Bloody noses and crack'd crowns,</div> -<div>And all the currents of a heady fight,"</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>at the box-office, and truly the house bore witness thereto; for it was -crammed from floor to ceiling. The play was the Hunchback. I played very -well, in spite of no green carpet, and no letter in the letter scene,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> -which lost one of my favourite points; one, by the by, that I am fond -of, because it is all my own.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 25th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, went to rehearsal. Came home, put out things for the -theatre, made myself a belt; received a whole bundle of smart annuals -from Mr. ——; spent some time in looking over their engravings. My gown -looked very handsome, but my belt was too small; had to make another. -The house was good, but not great. I played only so-so: the fact is, it -is utterly impossible to play to this audience at all. They are so -immovable, such very stocks and stones, that one is fairly exhausted -with labouring to excite them, before half one's work is done.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="center">AUTUMN SONG.</div></div> -<div class="stanza"><div>The merriest time of all the year</div> -<div class="i1">Is the time when the leaves begin to fall,</div> -<div>When the chestnut-trees turn yellow and sear,</div> -<div class="i1">And the flowers are withering one and all;</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>When the thick green sward is growing brown,</div> -<div class="i1">And the honeysuckle berries are red,</div> -<div>And the oak is shaking its acorns down,</div> -<div class="i1">And the dry twigs snap' neath the woodman's tread.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>The merriest dance that e'er was seen</div> -<div class="i1">Is the headlong dance of the whirling leaves,</div> -<div>And the rattling stubble that flies between</div> -<div class="i1">The yellow ranks of the barley sheaves.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>The merriest song that e'er was heard</div> -<div class="i1">Is the song of the sobbing autumn wind;</div> -<div>When the thin bare boughs of the elm are stirr'd,</div> -<div class="i1">And shake the black ivy round them twined.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>The merriest time of all the year</div> -<div class="i1">Is the time when all things fade and fall,</div> -<div>When the sky is bleak, and the earth is drear,</div> -<div class="i1">Oh, that's the merriest month of all.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<h3><i>Friday, 26th.</i></h3> - -<p>While I was dressing, D——, like a good angel, came in with three -letters from England in her hand.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The love of excellent friends is one of God's greatest blessings, and -deserves our utmost thankfulness. The counsel of sound heads and the -affection of Christian spirits is a staff of support, and a spring of -rejoicing through life.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>A Mr., Mrs., and young Mr. ——, called upon us: they are the only -inhabitants of this good city who have done us that honour.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>As soon as my father came in, we sallied forth to see the giantess of a -ship the Americans have been building, to thresh us withal. I hooked -myself up to ——, and away we strode; D—— and my father struggling -after us, as best they might. The day was most beautiful; bright, sunny, -and fresh. After walking at an immense pace for some time, we bethought -us of looking for our <i>poursuivants</i>; but neither sign nor vestige -appeared of them. We stood still and waited, and went on, and stood -still again. —— looked foolish at me, and I foolish at him: at length -we wisely agreed that they had probably made the best of their way to -the Navy-yard, and thither we proceeded. We found them, according to our -expectations, waiting for us, and proceeded to enter the building where -this lady of the seas was propped upon a hundred stays, surrounded with -scaffolding, with galleries running round from the floor to the ceiling. -We went on deck; in fact, the Pennsylvania has been boarded by the -English in our person, before she sets foot on the sea. How I should -like to see that ship launched; how she will sweep down from her -holdings, and settle to the water, as a swan before swimming out! How -the shores will resound with living voices, applauding her like a living -creature; how much of national pride, of anticipated triumph, will be -roused in every heart, as her huge wings<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> first unfold their shadow over -the sea, and she moves abroad, the glory and the wonder of the deep! -How, if this ship should ever lie in an English harbour! If I were an -American on board of her, I would sooner blow her up, with all the -"precious freighting souls" within her, than see such a consummation. -When my wonderment had a little subsided, it occurred to me that she -would not, perhaps, be so available a battle-ship as one of a smaller -size: it must be impossible to manœuvre her with any promptitude.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>My father and —— indulged in sundry right English bits of bragging, as -they stood at her stern, looking down the enormous deck. I wish I knew -her exact measurements: she is the largest ship ever built, larger than -any East Indiaman; the largest ship in the world. How the sea will groan -under her; nathless in a storm I would rather be in the veriest nutshell -that ever was flung from wave-top to wave-top. How she would sink! she -would go down like another Atlantis, poor ship! I have an amazing horror -of drowning. Came home just in time to dine. After dinner, wrote -letters; at six, went to the theatre; play, Hunchback; played so-so: the -audience are detestable. The majority are so silent that they not only -do not applaud the acting, but most religiously forbear to notice all -noises in the house, in consequence of which some impudent women amused -themselves with talking during the whole play, much "louder than the -players." At one time their impertinent racket so bewildered me, that I -was all but out, and this without the audience once interfering to -silence them; perhaps, however, that would have been an unwarrantable -interference with the sacred liberties of the people. I indulged them -with a very significant glance; and at one moment was most strongly -tempted to request them to hold their tongues.</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 27th.</i></h3> - -<p>The poor sick lady, whose pretty children I met running about the -stairs, sent to say she should be very glad if I would go in and see -her: I had had sundry inward promptings to this effect before, but was -withheld by the real English dread of intruding. At eleven, went to -rehearsal: on my return, called on Mrs. ——.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span></p><p>She interested me most extremely: I would have stayed long with her, -but feared she might exhaust herself by the exertion of conversing. On -my return to my own room, I sent her Mr. ——'s annuals, and the volume -of Mrs. Hemans's poetry he lent me. Began practising, when in walked -that interesting youth, Mr. ——, with a nosegay, as big as himself, in -his hand. Flowers,—sweet blooming, fresh, delicious flowers,—in the -last days of October; the very sackcloth season of the year. How they do -rejoice my spirit. He sat some time, making most excessively fine -speeches to me: while he was here, arrived another bouquet from my -unknown friend; how nice, to be sure! all but not knowing who they come -from. When my visiter was gone, wrote to —— till dinner-time. After -dinner, spent nearly the whole afternoon in dressing my pretty flowers. -Sent some of them in to Mrs. ——. I don't know why, but it seemed a sad -present to make to her; for I almost fear she will never see the -blossoms of another year. Yet why do I say that?—is not heaven brighter -than even this flowery earth?</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Finished my letter to ——; went to the theatre. My benefit: the -Provoked Husband. The house was very good. I played so-so, and looked -very nice. What fine breeding this play is, to be sure: it is quite -refreshing to act it; but it must be heathen Greek to the American -<i>exclusives</i>, I should think.</p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 28th.</i></h3> - -<p>Had only time to swallow a mouthful of breakfast, and off to church. I -must say it requires a deal of fortitude to go into an American church: -there are no pew-openers, and the people appear to rush indifferently -into any seats that are vacant. We went into a pew where there were two -women and a man, who did not take up one half of it; but who, -nevertheless, looked most ungracious at our coming into it. They did not -move to make way or accommodate us, but remained, with very discourteous -unchristian-like sulkiness, spread over twice as much space as they -required. The spirit of independence seems to preside paramount, even in -the house of God. This congregation, by frequenting an Episcopalian -temple, evidently professed the form of faith of the English church; yet -they neither uttered the responses, nor observed any<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> one of the -directions in the Common Prayer-book. Thus, during portions of the -worship where kneeling is enjoined, they sat or stood; and while the -Creed was being read, half the auditors were reclining comfortably in -their pews: the same thing with the Psalms, and all parts of the -service. I suppose their love of freedom will not suffer them to be -amenable to forms, or wear the exterior of humbleness and homage, even -in the house of the Most High God.<a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> The whole appearance of the -congregation was that of indifference, indolence, and irreverence, and -was highly displeasing to my eye. After church, came home, and began -writing to ——. —— called. He sat some time mending pens for me; and -at half-past one D——, he, and I packed ourselves into a coach, and -proceeded on to Fair Mount, where we got out, and left the coach to wait -for us. The day was bright and bitter cold: the keen spirit-like wind -came careering over the crisping waters of the broad river, and carried -across the cloudless blue sky the golden showers from the shivering -woods. They had not lost their beauty yet; though<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> some of their crimson -robes were turned to palest yellow, and through the thin foliage the -dark boughs and rugged barks showed distinctly, yet the sun shone -joyfully on them, and they looked beautiful still; and so did the water, -curled into a thousand mimic billows, that came breaking their crystal -heads along the curving shore, which, with its shady indentings and -bright granite promontories, seemed to lock the river in, and gave it -the appearance of a lovely lake. We took the tow-path, by D——'s -desire; but found (alas, that it is ever so!) that it was distance lent -enchantment to the view. For, though it was very pretty, it had lost -some of the beauty it seemed to wear, when we looked down upon it from -the woody heights that skirt the road.</p> - -<p>On we went, —— and I moderating our strides to keep pace with D——; -and she, puffing, panting, and struggling on to keep pace with us; yet I -was perished, and she was half melted: like all compromises, it was but -a botched business. The wind was deliciously fresh; and I think, as we -buffeted along in its very face, we should have made an admirable -subject for Bunbury. I, with my bonnet off, my combs out, and all my -hair flying about, hooked up to ——, who, willow-like, bent over me, to -facilitate my reaching his arm. D—— following in the rear, her cap and -hair half over her face, her shawl and clothes fluttering in the blast, -her cheeks the colour of crimson, which, relieved by her green bonnet, -whose sides she grappled tightly down to balk the wind, had much the -effect of a fine carnation bursting its verdant sheath. I never saw any -thing half so absurd in my life, as we all looked. Yet it was very -pleasant and wholesome, good for soul and body. After walking for some -time, I asked D—— the hour. It was three, and we were to dine at four, -in order to accommodate the servants, who, in this land of liberty, make -complete slaves of their masters. Horror took possession of us,—how -were we ever to get back in time? To turn back was hopeless: the endless -curvings of the shore, however much we had admired their graceful -sinuosities before, would now have appeared abominable to our -straight-forward designs of home, so we agreed to climb the hill and -take the upper road—and what a hill it was!—the sun poured his intense -rays down upon it; and, what with the heat and the wind, and the steep -path-way, I thought poor D—— would have died. We turned once as we -reached the summit, and I never saw any thing more lovely than the scene -we were leaving <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>behind us. The beautiful blue water winding far away -between its woody shores; close below the hill, a small reed-crowned -island lying like a gem on the bright river, and a little beyond, the -unfinished arches of a white bridge: the opposite shores were bathed -with the evening light, and far away the varied colours of the autumnal -woods were tinged with the golden glory of sunset. But we were pursued -by the thought of four o'clock, and paused but a moment. On we -struggled, and at last my frozen blood began to warm; and by the time we -reached the carriage, I was in a fine glow. Certainly exercise is, in -itself, very delightful, but in scenes like these it is doubly so: the -spirit is roused to activity by the natural beauties around, and the -fancy and feelings seem to acquire vigour from the quick circulation of -the blood, and the muscular energy of the limbs; it is highly -excellent.<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a> We jumped into the coach,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> adjured the man by all the -saints in the calendar to put wings to his chariot wheels, and sat -concocting plausible lies, by way of excuses, all the way home. At last -we hit upon an admirable invention. The cause of our being so late was -to be, that we stopped to render our assistance in reviving an -unfortunate young woman (a lovely creature, of course), who had thrown -herself into the Schuylkill, in consequence of some love disappointment, -and who was withdrawn just in time to be preserved. —— was to tell -this story with the gravest face he could summon for the occasion, while -we went up to dress, and when we came down we were to corroborate his -statement as correctly as good chance might enable us. We dressed in -half a minute, and found Mr. —— sitting with my father, and —— -looking amazingly demure. It seemed, however, that no remark had been -made, nor question asked, about our protracted perambulations, so that -we had actually thrown away all our ingenuity. This vexed me so much, -that in the middle of dinner I introduced the topic of drowning, and, -with a lamentable face, related the circumstance; but, alas! one of my -auditors was occupied with a <i>matelotte d'anguilles</i>, another with an -oyster <i>vol-au-vent</i>, and all the pretty girls in creation might have -been drowned, without the loss in any degree affecting the evident -satisfaction which the above subjects of meditation seemed to afford the -gentlemen: what selfish brutes men are! shocking. Our invention was thus -twice thrown away: one said "Humph!" and the other "Ha!" and that was -the extent of their sympathy. After dinner, came up to my own room, lay -down, and fairly slept till coffee was announced. Came down with half an -eye open, and found the circle augmented by the delectable presence of -Mr. ——. What an original that youth is! They talked politics, abused -republicanism, lauded aristocracy, drank tea, took snuff, ate cakes, and -pottered a deal. My father was going fast asleep, —— was making a -thousand signs to me to go to the piano, when Mr. —— rose to depart: -the other gentlemen took the hint, and left us at half-past ten.</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 30th.</i></h3> - -<p>At eleven o'clock, went to rehearsal: came home, began letter to ——. -Called with my father upon Mrs. ——: the servant committed that -awfullest of blunders, letting one into the house, and then finding out<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> -that nobody was at home.<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a> Came home, practised for some time: all of -a sudden the door opened, and in walked Colonel —— with my father. He -had just arrived from New York. He dined with us. After dinner, finished -letter to ——. At six, went to the theatre. The house was very good; -play, Much Ado about Nothing. I played well; but what an audience it is! -I have been often recommended, in cases of nervousness on the stage, to -consider the audience as just so many cabbages, and, indeed, a small -stretch of fancy would enable me to do so here. Colonel —— supped with -us. Found an invitation to dinner from the ——. "One exception makes a -rule," say the scholars; by that same token, therefore, the -Philadelphians are about the most inhospitable set of people it ever was -my good fortune to fall in with.<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a></p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></p><p>Towards the end of supper, we fell into a strange discussion as to the -nature of existence. A vain and fruitless talk, after all; for life -shall be happy or sad, not, indeed, according to its events, but -according to the nature of the individuals to whom these events befall. -Colonel —— maintained that life was in itself desirable; abounding in -blessings, replete with comforts, a fertile land, where still, as one -joy decays, another springs up to flourish in its place. He said that he -felt thankful every day, and every hour of the day, for his existence; -that he feared death, only because life was an absolute enjoyment, and -that he would willingly, to-morrow, accept the power of beginning his -again, even though he should be placed on the world's threshold, a -lonely friendless beggar: so sure was he that his prospects would -brighten, and friends spring up to him, and plenty reward labour, and -life become pleasant, ere it had grown many years old. How widely human -beings differ! It was but an hour before, that I, in counting how many -stars I had already seen go down below the horizon of existence,—Weber, -Lawrence, Scott, all of whom I have known,—was saying to D——, "How -sad a thing, and strange, life is!" adding, what I repent me for, "I -wish that I were dead!" Oh, how can any human being, who looks abroad -into the world, and within upon himself, who sees the wondrous mystery -of all things, the unabidingness which waits on all matter, the -imperfection which clogs all spirit; who notes the sovereignty of change -over the inanimate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> creation, of disease, decay, and death over man's -body, of blindness and delusion over his mind, of sin over his soul; who -beholds the frailty of good men; who feels the miserable inconsistency -of his own nature; the dust and ashes of which our love, and what we -love, is made; the evil that, like an unwholesome corpse, still clings -to our good; the sorrow that, like its shadow, still walks behind our -joy;—oh, who that sees all this can say that this life is other than -sad—most sad? Yet, while I write this, God forbid that I should -therefore want eyes to see, or sense to feel, the blessings wherewith he -has blessed it; the rewards with which he sweetens our task, the flowers -wherewith he cheers our journey's road, the many props wherewith he -supports our feet in it. Yet of all these, the sweetest, the brightest, -the strongest, are those which our soul draws from him, the end of its -desire, not those it finds here. And how should not that spirit yearn -for its accomplishment? If we seek knowledge here, a thousand mists -arise between our incapable senses and the truth, how, then, should we -not wish to cast away this darkness, and soar to the fountains of all -light? If we strive to employ those faculties which, being of our soul, -have the strength and enduring of immortality, the objects whereon we -expend them here are vague, evanescent, disappointing; how then should -we not desire to find food for our capacities, abiding as themselves? If -we long to love—ah, are not the creatures in whom we centre our -affections frail, capable of change; perishable, born to decay? How then -should we not look with unutterable yearning for that life where -affection is unchangeable, eternal? Surely, if all the hopes, the fears, -the aims, the tendings of our soul, have but their beginning here, it is -most natural, it is most fitting, to turn to that future where they -shall be fulfilled. But there lies a road between.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>A break—a break—a break! So much the better; for the two last days -have been nothing but annoyance, hard work, and heartach.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, November 2d.</i></h3> - -<p>A bright sunny day; too hot for a fire; windows open, shutters closed, -and the room full of flowers. How the sweet summer-time stays<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> lingering -here. Found Colonel —— in the drawing-room. After breakfast, began -writing to ——. Mr. —— called: he stayed but a short time, and went -out with Colonel ——. My father went out soon after, and I began to -practise. Mrs. —— came in and sat with me: she played to me, and sang -"Should those fond hopes ever leave thee." Her voice was as thin as her -pale transparent hands. She appeared to me much better than when last I -saw her; but presently told me she had just been swallowing eighty drops -of laudanum, poor thing! When she was gone, went on practising, and -writing, till my father came home. Walked with him and D—— to call on -old Lady ——. The day was so hot that I could scarcely endure my boa. -The election was going on; the streets full of rabblement, the air full -of huzzaing, and the sky obscured with star-spangled banners, and -villanous transparencies of "Old Hickory,"<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> hung out in all -directions. We went round the Town-House, and looked at the window out -of which Jefferson read the Act of Independence, that proclaimed the -separation between England and America.<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a> Called<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> at a music-shop, -tossed over heaps of music, bought some, and ordered some to be sent -home for me to look over. Came home, put out things for the theatre. -Dined at three.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Received another beautiful nosegay. After dinner, went on with letter to -——; tried over my music; Heber's song that I wanted is not among them. -At six, went to the theatre. The sunset was glorious, the uprising of -the moon most beautiful. There is an intensity, an earnestness, about -the colour of the sky, and the light of its bright inhabitants here, -that is lovely and solemn, beyond any thing I ever saw. Can Italy have -brighter heavens than these? surely nothing can exceed the beauty of -these days and nights. We were obliged to go all manner of roundabouts -to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> the play-house, in order to avoid the rabble that choked up the -principal streets. I, by way of striking salutary awe into the hearts of -all rioters who might come across our path, brandished my father's sword -out of the coach window the whole way along. The play was Venice -Preserved; my father played Jaffier.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I played pretty well. The house was very good; but at the end I really -was half dead.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>On our return home, met a procession of electioneerers carrying -triangular paper lanterns upon poles, with "sentiments" political -scribbled thereon, which, however, I could not distinguish. Found a most -exquisite nosegay waiting for me at home, so sweet, so brilliant, so -fragrant and fresh.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Found nothing for supper that I could fancy. Drank some tea, wrote -journal. Colonel —— came in after supper, and wondered that I had -played better to my father's Jaffier than to Mr. Keppel's. Heaven bless -the world, for a <i>conglomerated amalgamation</i> of fools!</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 5th.</i></h3> - -<p>Guy Fawkes' day, and no squibs, no firing of pistols, no bonfires, nor -parading about of ferocious-looking straw men. Ah! these poor people -never had a king and two houses of parliament, and don't know what a -mercy it is they weren't blown up before they passed the reform bill. -Now if such an accident should occur to them, they'd all be sure to be -blown straight into heaven, and hang there. Rose at half-past five. Oh, -I quite agree with the Scotch song,</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>"Up in the morning's na for me,</div> -<div class="i1">Up in the morning early;</div> -<div>I'd rather watch a winter's night,</div> -<div class="i1">Than rise in the morning early."</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>Dressed myself by candlelight. Mrs. —— sent in to ask me if I would -see her, but I had not time. Sent her a note, and received, in exchange, -the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> seed of what I suspect is the wood laurel, common in this country, -but unknown in ours. Started from the Mansion House (which is a very -nice inn, kept by the civilest of people,) at six, and reached the quay -just in time to meet the first rosy breaking of the clouds over the -Delaware.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I am sorry to leave Philadelphia. I like the town, and the little I have -seen of its inhabitants, very much; I mean in private, for they are -intolerable audiences. There is an air of stability, of well-to-do, and -occasionally of age, in the town, that reminds me of England. Then, as -far as my yesterday's dinner will allow me to judge, I should say, that -not only the style of living but the society was superior to that which -I saw in New York. Certainly, both the entertainment itself, and the -guests, were irreproachable; the first was in very good taste, the -latter appeared to me well-informed, and very agreeable. The morning, in -spite of all ——'s persuasive prophecies, was beautiful beyond -description. The river like the smoothest glass. The sky was bright and -cloudless, and along the shores, the distinctness with which each -smallest variation of form, or shade of colour, was reflected in the -clear mirror of the Delaware was singularly beautiful and fairy-like. -The tints of the woods were what no words can convey the slightest idea -of. Now, a whole tract of withered oaks, of a red brick hue, like a -forest scorched with fire; now, a fresh thicket of cedars of the -brightest green; then, wide screens of mingled trees, where the foliage -was one gorgeous mixture of vermilion, dark maroon, tender green, golden -yellow, and deep geranium. The whole land at a distance appearing to lie -under an atmosphere of glowing colour, richer than any crimson mantle -that ever clothed the emperors of the olden world; all this illuminated -by a sun, which we should have thought too hot for June. It was very -beautiful. I did not, however, see much of it, for I was overcome with -fatigue, and slept both in the steam-boat and in the stage-coach. When -we embarked on the Raritan, I had intended lying down in the cabin, and -taking my sleep fairly out, but the jolting of those bitter roads had -made every one of the women sick, and the cabin was horrible beyond -expression. Came up on deck, and worked till within a quarter of a mile -of New York, when I went on the upper deck, and walked about with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> -Colonel ——. I asked Captain Seymour how often the engine would strike -in a minute; he told me, thirty-six times. By the by, we had a race, -coming down the Raritan, with the Union steam-boat. The Water Witch beat -her hollow; but she came so near as to make our water rough, and so -impede our progress, that I thought we should have had a concussion; -there is something very exciting in emulation, certainly. The sun went -down in a watery gloomy sky, though the day had been so fine; and when -we got sight of the Narrows, sky, and sea, and land, were all of a dark -leaden hue. Our second landing at New York was rather melancholy: shall -I ever forget the first? Came up to our comfortless quarters at the -American; dressed, and dined, and began finishing my letter to dear -——, when they brought me in another from her, by the packet that has -just come in.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 6th.</i></h3> - -<p>It poured with rain. Lucky we did not follow ——'s advice, else we -should have been miserably progressing through rain and wretchedness, or -perhaps sticking fast in the mud. Went and took a warm bath; came home, -breakfasted; after breakfast, practised for an hour; finished letter to -——; wrote to my mother; dined at five. After dinner, Colonel -—— called, and very nearly caused a blow-up between me and my father: -he came preaching to me the necessity of restoring those lines of -Bianca's, in the judgment-scene, which were originally omitted, -afterwards restored by me at Milman's request, and again cut out, on -finding that they only lengthened the scene, without producing the -slightest effect. My father appeared perfectly to agree with me, but -added, that I might as well oblige the people. I straightforth said I -would do no such thing. People sitting before the curtain must not come -and tell me what I am to do behind it. Not one out of a hundred, in the -first place, understand what they are talking about; and why, therefore, -am I to alter my work at their suggestion, when each particular scene -has cost me more consideration than they ever bestowed upon any whole -play in all their lives. Besides, it would be with me and my parts as -with the old man, his son, and his ass, in the fable of old; I should -never have done altering, and yet never satisfy any body; for the most -universal talent I know of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> is that of finding fault. So, all things -well considered, the New Yorkians must e'en be contented with the -judgment of Miss O'Neill, my father, and their obedient humble servant. -Worked till tea-time; after tea, wrote letters till now, bed-time.</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 7th.</i></h3> - -<p>Our breakfast was so bad, none of us could eat any thing. After -breakfast, despatched letters to Mr. ——, for England. Practised for an -hour,—sketched for an hour.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>At half-past one, went out with my father to walk on the Battery, while -Colonel —— and D—— went to ——, to see if we could get decent -lodgings, and wholesome eatables there. The day was melancholy, grey, -cold; with a full fresh wind, whirling the rattling leaves along, and -rippling the leaden waters of the wide estuary that opens before this -beautiful parade. The Jersey shore and Staten Island, with their -withered woods all clothed in their dark warm autumnal hues, at a -distance reminded me of the heathery hills of Scotland; they had that -dark purple richness of colouring.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>D—— and Colonel —— joined us, and we walked up Broadway together: my -father left me to go with them, and look at our proposed dwelling. It is -all in vain struggling with one's fate; 'tis clear they haven't the most -distant idea of the comforts of life in these parts. Darkness, -dinginess, and narrowness, were the attributes of the apartments into -which we were shown; then, as the Colonel had never eaten in the house, -he did not know what our food might be—pleasant this! <i>Resolved</i>, that -we were better off where we are, and so returned to the American. -Sketched and practised for some time longer. Mr. —— called to go with -my father to Mrs. ——'s, where they were to dine. He certainly is one -of the handsomest men I ever saw; but he looks half dead, and is working -himself to death, it should seem.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>He told me that Boston was the most charming town in America.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span></p><p>Put away things, while D—— unpacked them. Dressed for dinner. Dined -at five; afterwards proceeded in the unpacking and stowing away.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I was interrupted by the announcement of an incomprehensible cognomen, -which solved itself in the shape of Mr. ——, who walked in, sat down, -and began talking a deal of nonsense. I worked, that I might not go to -sleep. He was most exceedingly odd and dauldrummish, I think he was a -little "how com'd you so indeed." He sat very near me, spoke exceedingly -drowsily, and talked an amazing quantity of thickish philosophy, and -moral and sentimental potter. I bore it as well as I could, till ten -o'clock, when I asked him how long it was "reckoned" discreet, in this -country, to prolong evening visits; whereupon he arose and took his -departure.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Worked at the ornaments of my Bianca dress, finished one, and wrote -journal.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 8th.</i></h3> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>After breakfast, worked at my dress till late; Mr. —— called. Put away -goods and chattels; put out things for the theatre. A brother of Mr. -—— called upon us, and sat some time: when he was gone, came back to -my room to finish the ornaments for my dress. This day has been spent in -the thorough surroundings of my vocation; foil stone, glass beads, and -brass tape! —— came just before dinner; and at the end of it, Colonel -—— called. He read us a paragraph in one of the Philadelphia papers, -upon me, and all my good parts; there was actually a column of them. It -was well written, for I was absolute perfection; excepting, indeed, in -one respect, the hauteur and disdain with which I had treated the -"<i>rank</i> and fashion of Philadelphia." Now this was not true, for, to -speak candidly, I did not know that there were such things as rank and -fashion in all America. However, the article made me laugh extremely, -for, as I could not help observing, "there are real lords and ladies in -my country."<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span></p><p>Came to my own room,—refurbished my green velvet bonnet. 'Tis a worthy -old thing that, and looks amazingly well. The cold weather is setting in -very bitterly to-day; we were obliged to have a fire. Heard my father -his part: whilst saying it, he received a subpœna on some business -between Mr. —— and Mr. ——. At a quarter to six, went to the theatre. -Play, Fazio; house very fine; dress like a bonfire. I played well, but -then my father was the Fazio. The people cried abundantly. Mrs. —— was -shocked at having to play that naughty woman Aldabella (I wish they -would let me try that part); and when the Duke<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> dismissed her in the -last scene, picked up her train, and flounced off in a way that made the -audience for to laugh. Coming home, Mr. —— overtook us. My father -asked him in, but he excused himself; before, however, we were well -seated, he had repented the refusal, and came rushing back. Colonel —— -came in, and they both of them supped with us, discussing many matters -of pith. Received a nosegay, as big as myself, of dahlias and other -autumnal flowers.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The moon is resplendent! the earth is flooded with her cold -light—beautiful! By the by, <i>last night</i>, at three o'clock this -morning, I was awakened by music. It was a military band playing Yankee -Doodle, the national anthem of the Americans, accompanied by the tramp -of a considerable body of men. They took the direction of the Park, and -there halted, when I heard a single voice haranguing for a length of -time, with occasional interruptions of vehement huzzas, and rolling of -drums. And anon, the march struck up again, grew faint, and died into -the stillness of night.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I was much bounden to the Jacksonites, who are carrying it by fair means -or foul. One man, I was assured, voted nine times over! He was an -Irishman, and, it is to be presumed, a tailor.</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 10th.</i></h3> - -<p>Skipped yesterday: so much the better, for though it began, like May, -with flowers and sunshine, it ended, like December, with the sulks, and -a fit of crying. The former were furnished me by my friends and Heaven, -the latter, by myself and the devil.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>At six o'clock, D—— roused me; and grumpily enough I arose. I dressed -myself by candlelight in a hurry. Really, by way of a party of pleasure, -'tis too abominable to get up in the middle of the night this fashion. -At half-past six, Colonel —— came; and as soon as I could persuade -myself into my clothes, we set off to walk to the quay. Just as we were -nearing the bottom of Barclay Street, the bell rang from the steam-boat, -to summon all loiterers on board; and forthwith we rushed,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> because in -this country steam and paddles, like wind and tide in others, wait for -no man. We got on board in plenty time, but D—— was nearly killed with -the pace at which we had walked, in order to do so. One of the first -persons we saw was Mr. ——, who was going up to his father's place -beyond West Point, by name Hyde Park, which sounds mighty magnificent. I -did not remain long on the second deck, but ascended to the first with -Colonel ——, and paced to and fro with infinite zeal till -breakfast-time. The morning was grey and sad-looking, and I feared we -should not have a fine day: however, towards eight o'clock, the grey -clouds parted, and the blue serene eyes of heaven looked down upon the -waters; the waves began to sparkle, though the sun had not yet appeared; -the sky was lighter, and faint shadows began to appear beside the -various objects that surrounded us, all which symptoms raised our hopes -of the weather. At eight o'clock, we went down to breakfast. Nobody, who -has not seen it, can conceive the strange aspect of the long room of one -of these fine boats at meal-time. The crowd, the hurry, the confusion of -tongues, like the sound of many waters, the enormous consumption of -eatables, the mingled demands for more, the cloud of black waiters -hovering down the sides of the immense tables, the hungry eager faces -seated at them, form altogether a most amusing subject of contemplation, -and a caricaturist would find ample matter for his vein in almost every -other devouring countenance. As far as regards the speed, safety, and -convenience with which these vessels enable one to perform what would be -in any other conveyance most fatiguing journeys, they are admirable -inventions. The way in which they are conducted, too, deserves the -highest commendation. Nothing can exceed the comfort with which they are -fitted up, the skill with which they are managed, and the order and -alacrity with which passengers are taken up from, or landed at, the -various points along the river. The steamer goes at the rate of fifteen -miles an hour; and in less than two minutes, when approaching any place -of landing, the engine stops, the boat is lowered—the captain always -convoys his passengers himself from the steamer to the shore—away darts -the tiny skiff, held by a rope to the main boat; as soon as it grazes -the land, its freight, animate and inanimate, is bundled out, the boat -hauls itself back in an instant, and immediately the machine is in -motion, and the vessel again bounding over the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> water like a -race-horse.<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a> Doubtless all this has many and great advantages; but to -an English person, the mere circumstance of being the whole day in a -crowd is a nuisance. As to privacy at any time, or under any -circumstances, 'tis a thing that enters not into the imagination of an -American. They do not seem to comprehend that to be from sunrise to -sunset one of a hundred and fifty people confined in a steam-boat is in -itself a great misery, or that to be left by one's self and to one's -self can ever be desirable. They live all the days of their lives in a -throng, eat at ordinaries of two or three hundred, sleep five or six in -a room, take pleasure in droves, and travel by swarms.<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>In spite, therefore, of all its advantages, this mode of journeying has -its drawbacks, and the greatest of all, to me, is the being -<i>companioned</i> by so many strangers, who crowd about you, pursue their -conversation in your very ears, or, if they like it better, listen to -yours, stare you out of all countenance, and squeeze you out of all -comfort. It is perfectly intolerable to me; but then I have more than -even the national English abhorrence of coming in contact with -strangers. There is no moment of my life when I would not rather be -alone than in company; and feeling, as I often do, the society of even -those I love a burden, the being eternally surrounded by indifferent -persons is a positive suffering that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> interferes with every enjoyment, -and makes pleasure three parts endurance. I think this constant living -in public is one reason why the young women here are much less retiring -and shy than English girls. Instead of the domestic privacy in which -women among us are accustomed to live, and move, and have their being, -here they are incessantly, as Mr. —— says, "<i>en évidence</i>." Accustomed -to the society of strangers, mixing familiarly with persons of whom they -know nothing earthly, subject to the gaze of a crowd from morning till -night, pushing, and pressing, and struggling in self-defence, -conversing, and being conversed with, by the chance companions of a -boarding-house, a steam-boat, or the hotel of a fashionable -watering-place, they must necessarily lose every thing like reserve or -bashfulness of deportment, and become free and familiar in their -manners, and noisy and unrefined in their tone and style of -conversation.<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a> An English girl of sixteen, put on board one of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> these -Noah's arks (for verily there be clean and unclean beasts in them), -would feel and look like a scared thing. To return to our progress. -After losing sight of New York, the river becomes narrower in its bed, -and the banks on either side assume a higher and more rocky appearance. -A fine range of basaltic rock, called the Palisadoes, rising to a height -of some hundred feet (I guess), immediately from the water on the left, -forms a natural rampart, overhanging the river for several miles. The -colour of the basalt was greenish grey, and contrasted finely with the -opposite shore, whose softer undulations were yet clothed with verdure, -and adorned with patches of woodland, robed in the glorious colours of -an American autumn. While despatching breakfast, the reflection of the -sun's rays on the water flickered to and fro upon the cabin ceiling; and -through the loop-hole windows we saw the bright foam round the paddles -sparkling like frothed gold in the morning light. On our return to the -deck, the face of the world had become resplendent with the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>glorious -sunshine that now poured from the east; and rock and river, earth and -sky, shone in intense and dazzling brilliancy. The broad Hudson curled -into a thousand crisp billows under the fresh north-wester that blew -over it. The vaporous exhalations of night had melted from the horizon, -and the bold rocky range of one shore, and exquisite rolling outline of -the other, stood out in fair relief against the deep serene of the blue -heavens.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I remained on deck without my bonnet, walking to and fro, and enjoying -the delicious wind that was as bracing as a shower-bath. Mr. —— most -civilly offered me, when I returned to New York, the use of a horse, and -himself as escort to a beautiful ride beyond Hoboken, which proffer was -very gratefully received by me. Colonel —— introduced me to an old man -of the name of ——.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>a jester, and a long story-teller;—a man whom it would be awful to meet -when you were too late for dinner, still more awful on your progress to -a rendezvous;—a man to whom a listener is a Godsend, and a button an -anchor of discoursing for half a day. He made me laugh once or twice -heartily. As we passed the various points of the river, to which any -interest, legendary or historical, attached, each of my three companions -drew my attention to it; and I had, pretty generally, three variations -of the same anecdote at each point of observation. On we boiled past -Spitendevil creek,<a name="FNanchor_57_57" id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> where the waters of the broad Hudson join those -of the East River, and circle with their silver arms the island of -Manhattan. Past the last stupendous reach of the Palisadoes, which, -stretching out into an endless promontory, seems to grow with the -mariner's onward progress, and bears witness to the justice with which -Hudson, on his exploring voyage up the river, christened it, the "weary -point." Past the thick masses of wood that mark the shadowy site of -Sleepy Hollow.<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id="FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a> Past the marble prison of Sing Sing; and Tarrytown, -where poor André was taken; and on the opposite shore, saw the -glimmering white buildings, among which his tomb reposes.—By the by, -for a bit of the marvellous, which I dearly love. I am credibly informed -that on the day the traitor Arnold died, in England, a thunderbolt -struck the tree that grew above André's tomb here, on the shores of the -Hudson—nice, that! Crossed the broad, glorious, Tappan Sea, where the -shores, receding, form a huge basin, where the brimming waters roll in -an expanse of lake-like width, yet hold their rapid current to the -ocean, themselves a running sea. The giant shadows of the mountains on -the left, falling on the deep basin at their feet, the triumphant -sunlight that made the restless mirror that reflected it too bright for -the eye to rest upon, the sunny shores to the right, rising and falling -in every exquisite form that hill and dale can wear, the jutting masses -of granite, glittering like the diamond rocks of fairy-land in the sun, -the golden waves flinging themselves up every tiny crevice, the glowing -crimson<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> foliage of the distant woods, the fresh vivid green of the -cedars, that rifted their strong roots in every stony cleft, and threw a -semblance of summer over these November days—all, all was beautiful, -and full of brightness. We passed the lighthouse of Stony Point, now the -peaceful occupant of the territory where the blood in English veins was -poured out by English hands, during the struggle between old-established -tyranny and the infant liberties of this giant world. Over all and each, -the blessed sky bent its blue arch, resplendently clear and bright, -while far away the distant summits of the Highlands rose one above -another, shutting in the world, and almost appearing as though each bend -of the river must find us locked in their shadowy circle, without means -of onward progress.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>At every moment, the scene varied; at every moment, new beauty and -grandeur was revealed to us; at every moment, the delicious lights and -shadows fell with richer depth and brightness upon higher openings into -the mountains, and fairer bends of the glorious river. At about a -quarter to eleven, the buildings of West Point were seen, perched upon -the rock side, overhanging the water; above, the woody rise, upon whose -summit stands the large hotel, the favourite resort of visiters during -the summer season; rising again above this, the ruins of Fort Putnam, -poor André's prison-house, overlooking the Hudson and its shores; and, -towering high beyond them all, the giant hills, upon whose brown -shoulders the trees looked like bristles standing up against the sky. We -left the boat, or rather she left us, and presently we saw her holding -her course far up the bright water, and between the hills; where framed -by the dark mountains, with the sapphire stream below and the sapphire -sky above, lay the bright little town of Newburgh, with its white -buildings glittering in the sunshine.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>We toiled up the ascent, which, though by comparison with its -over-peering fellows inconsiderable, was a sufficiently fatiguing -undertaking under the unclouded weather and over the unshaded downs that -form the parade-ground for the cadets. West Point is a military -establishment, containing some two hundred and fifty pupils, who are -here educated for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> the army under the superintendence of experienced -officers.<a name="FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> The buildings, in which they reside and pursue their -various studies, stand upon a grassy knoll holding the top of the rocky -bank of the river, and commanding a most enchanting view of its course. -They are not particularly extensive, but commodious and well-ordered. I -am told they have a good library; but on reaching the dwelling of Mr. -Cozzens (proprietor of the hotel, which being at this season shut, he -received us most hospitably and courteously in his own house), I felt so -weary, that I thought it impossible I should stir again for the whole -day, and declined seeing it. I had walked on the deck at an amazing -pace, and without once sitting down, from eight o'clock till eleven; and -I think must nearly have killed Colonel ——, who was my companion -during this march. However, upon finding that it wanted full an hour -till dinner-time, it was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> agreed that we should go up to the fort, and -we set off under the guidance of one of Mr. Cozzens' servants, who had -orders not to go too fast with us. Before turning into the woods that -cover the foot of the mountain, we followed a bit of road that overhung -the river; and stealing over its sleepy-looking waters, where shone like -stars the white sails of many a tiny skiff, came the delicious notes of -a bugle-horn. The height at which we stood above the water prevented the -ear being satisfied with the complete subject of the musician, but the -sweet broken tones that came rising from the far-down thickets that -skirted the river had more harmony than a distinct and perfect strain. I -stood entranced to listen—the whole was like a dream of fairy-land: but -presently our guide struck into the woods, and the world became screened -from our sight. I had thought that I was tired, and could not stir, even -to follow the leisurely footsteps of our cicerone; but tangled brake and -woodland path, and rocky height, soon roused my curiosity, and my legs -following therewith, I presently outstripped our party, guide and all, -and began pursuing my upward path, through close-growing trees and -shrubs, over pale shining ledges of granite, over which the trickling -mountain springs had taken their silvery course; through swampy grounds, -where the fallen leaves lay like gems under the still pools that here -and there shone dimly in little hollow glens; over the soft starry moss -that told where the moist earth retained the freshening waters, over -sharp hard splinters of rock, and rough masses of stone. Alone, alone, I -was alone and happy, and went on my way rejoicing, climbing and climbing -still, till the green mound of thick turf, and ruined rampart of the -fort arrested my progress. I coasted the broken wall, and, lighting down -on a broad smooth table of granite fringed with young cedar bushes, I -looked down, and for a moment my breath seemed to stop, the pulsation of -my heart to cease—I was filled with awe. The beauty and wild sublimity -of what I beheld seemed almost to crush my faculties,—I felt dizzy as -though my senses were drowning,—I felt as though I had been carried -into the immediate presence of God. Though I were to live a thousand -years, I never can forget it. The first thing that I distinctly saw was -the shadow of a large cloud, which rolled slowly down the side of a huge -mountain, frowning over the height where I stood. The shadow moved down -its steep sunny side, threw a deep blackness over the sparkling river, -and then passed off and climbed the opposite <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>mountain on the other -shore, leaving the world in the full blaze of noon. I could have -stretched out my arms, and shouted aloud—I could have fallen on my -knees, and worshipped—I could have committed any extravagance that -ecstasy could suggest. I stood filled with amazement and delight, till -the footsteps and voices of my companions roused me. I darted away, -unwilling to be interrupted. Colonel —— was following me, but I -peremptorily forbade his doing so, and was clambering on alone, when the -voice of our guide, assuring me that the path I was pursuing was -impassable, arrested my course. My father beckoned to me from above not -to pursue my track; so I climbed through a break, which the rocky walls -of nature and the broken fortifications of art rendered tolerably -difficult of access, and running round the wall joined my father on his -high stand, where he was holding out his arms to me. For two or three -minutes we mingled exclamations of delight and surprise: he then led me -to the brink of the rampart; and, looking down the opposite angle of the -wall to that which I was previously coasting, I beheld the path I was -then following break suddenly off, on the edge of a precipice several -hunched feet down into the valley: it made me gulp to look at it. -Presently I left my father, and, after going the complete round of the -ruins, found out for myself a grassy knoll commanding a full view of the -scene, sufficiently far from my party not to hear their voices, and -screened from seeing them by some beautiful young cedar bushes; and here -I lay down and cried most abundantly, by which means I recovered my -senses, which else, I think, must have forsaken me. How full of thoughts -I was! Of God's great might, and gracious goodness, of the beauty of -this earth, of the apparent nothingness of man when compared with this -huge inanimate creation, of his wondrous value, for whose delight and -use all these fair things were created! I thought of my distant home; -that handful of earth thrown upon the wide waters, whose genius has led -the kingdoms of the world—whose children have become the possessors of -this new hemisphere. I rejoiced to think that when England shall be, as -all things must be, fallen into the devouring past, her language will -still be spoken among these glorious hills, her name revered, her memory -cherished, her fame preserved here, in this far world beyond the seas, -this country of her children's adoption. Poor old mother! how she would -remain amazed to see the huge earth and waters where her voice is heard, -in the name of every<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> spot where her descendants have rested the soles -of their feet: this giant inheritance of her sons, poor, poor, old -England!</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Where are the poets of this land? Why, such a world should bring forth -men with minds and souls larger and stronger than any that ever dwelt in -mortal flesh! Where are the poets of this land? They should be giants, -too; Homers and Miltons, and Goethes and Dantes, and Shakspeares. Have -these glorious scenes poured no inspirings into hearts worthy to behold -and praise their beauty? Is there none to come here and worship among -these hills and waters till his heart burns within him, and the hymn of -inspiration flows from his lips, and rises to the sky? Is there not one -among the sons of such a soil to send forth its praises to the universe, -to throw new glory round the mountains, new beauty over the waves? Is -inanimate nature, alone, here "telling the glories of God?" Oh, surely, -surely, there will come a time when this lovely land will be vocal with -the sound of song, when every close-locked valley and waving wood, -rifted rock and flowing stream, shall have their praise. Yet 'tis -strange how marvellously unpoetical these people are! How swallowed up -in life and its daily realities, wants, and cares! How full of toil and -thrift, and money-getting labour! Even the heathen Dutch, among us the -very antipodes of all poetry, have found names such as the Donder Berg -for the hills, whilst the Americans christen them Butter Hill, the -Crow's Nest, and <i>such like</i>. Perhaps some hundred years hence, when -wealth has been amassed by individuals, and the face of society begins -to grow checkered, as in the old lands of Europe, when the whole mass of -population shall no longer go running along the level road of toil and -profit, when inequalities of rank shall exist, and the rich man shall be -able to pay for the luxury of poetry, and the poor man who makes verses -no longer be asked, "Why don't you cast up accounts?" when all this -comes to pass, as <i>perhaps</i> some day it may, America will have poets. It -seems strange to me that men, such as the early settlers in -Massachusetts, the Puritan founders of New England, the "Pilgrim -Fathers," should not have had amongst them some men, or at least man, in -whose mind the stern and enduring courage, the fervent enthusiastic -piety, the unbending love of liberty, which animated them all, became -the inspiration to poetic thought, and the suggestion of poetical -utterance. They should have had a Milton<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> or a Klopstock amongst them. -Yet, after all, they had excitement of another sort, and, moreover, the -difficulties and dangers, and distresses of a fate of unparalleled -hardship, to engross all the energies of their minds; and I am half -inclined to believe that poetry is but a hothouse growth, and yet I -don't know: I wish somebody would explain to me every thing in this -world that I can't make out.<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id="FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a> We came down<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> from the mountain at -about half-past one: our party had been joined by Colonel ——, governor -of the College, who very courteously came toiling up to Fort Putnam, to -pay his compliments to us. I lingered far behind them, returning; and, -when they were out of sight, turned back, and once more ascended the -ruin, to look my last of admiration and delight, and then down, down, -every step bringing me out of the clouds, farther from heaven, and -nearer this work i' day world. I loitered, and loitered, looking back at -every step; but at last the hills were shut out by a bend in the road, -and I came into the house to throw myself down on the floor, and sleep -most seriously for half an hour; at the end of which time we were called -to dinner.</p> - -<p>In England, if an innkeeper gives you a good dinner, and places the -first dish on the table himself, you pay him, and he's obliged to you. -Here, an innkeeper is a gentleman, your equal, sits at his table with -you, you pay him, and are obliged to him besides. 'Tis necessary -therefore for a stranger, but especially an Englishman, to understand -the fashions of the land, else he may chance to mistake that for an -impertinent familiarity, which is in fact the received custom of the -country. Mr. Cozzens very considerately gave us our dinner in a private -room, instead of seating us at an ordinary with all the West Point -officers. Moreover,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> <i>gave</i> in the literal sense, and a very good dinner -it was. He is himself a very intelligent courteous person, and, during -the very short time that we were his guests, showed us every possible -attention and civility. We had scarce finished our dinner, when in -rushed a waiter to tell us that the boat was in sight. Away we trotted, -trailing cloaks, and shawls, any-how fashion, down the hill. The steamer -came puffing up the gorge between the mountains, and in a moment we were -bundled into the boat, hauled alongside, and landed on the deck; and -presently the glorious highlands, all glowing in the rosy sunset, began -to recede from us. Just as we were putting off from shore, a tiny skiff, -with its graceful white sail glittering in the sun, turned the base of -the opposite hill, evidently making to the point whence we embarked. I -have since learned that it contained a messenger to us, from a gentleman -bearing our name, and distantly connected with us, proprietor of some -large iron-works on the shore opposite West Point. However, our kinsman -was too late, and we were already losing sight of West Point, when his -boat reached the shore. Our progress homeward was, if any thing, more -enchanting than our coming out had been, except for leaving all this -loveliness. The sun went down in splendour, leaving the world robed in -glorious beauty. The sky was one glowing geranium curtain, into which -the dark hills rose like shadow-land, stretching beyond, and still -beyond, till they grew like hazy outlines through a dazzling mist of -gold. The glory faded; and a soft violet colour spread downwards to the -horizon, where a faint range of clouds lay floating like scattered rose -leaves. As the day fell, the volumes of smoke from our steam-boat -chimneys became streams of fiery sparks, which glittered over the water -with a strange unearthly effect. I sat on deck watching the world grow -dark, till my father, afraid of the night air, bade me go down; and -there, in spite of the chattering of a score of women, and the squalling -of half as many children, I slept profoundly till we reached New York, -at a quarter to seven.</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 17th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, wrote journal: while doing so, Mr. —— called to know -if I held my mind in spite of the grey look of the morning. A wan -sunbeam just then lighted on the earth, and I said I would go; for I -thought by about twelve it probably would clear.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span></p><p>They called for me in the carriage at eleven; and afterwards we mounted -our steeds in Warren Street to escape the crowd in Broadway. We rode -down to the ferry. The creature, <i>on top</i> of which I sat, was the real -<i>potatuppy</i> butcher's horse. However, it did not shake me, or pull my -arms much, so I was content. As to a horse properly broken, either for -man or woman, I have done looking for it in this land. We went into the -steam-boat on our horses. The mist lay thick over the river; but the -opposite shores had that grey distinctness of colour and outline that -invariably foretells rain in England. The wind blew bitterly keen and -cold.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Our riding party was Mr. ——, whom I like; Mrs. ——, whom I also like, -in spite of her outlandish riding-habiliments, a brother of his,</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>and a young —— in white hair and spectacles. The carriage held old Mr. -——, Miss ——, the youngest daughter, and that beautiful youngest boy -of theirs, who is so like his handsome sister; also sundry baskets of -cake, and bottles of champagne. After landing, we set off at a brisk -canter to Weehawk. None of these people know how to ride: they just go -whatever pace their horse likes, sitting as backward as they can in the -saddle, and tugging at the reins as hard as ever they can, to the -infinite detriment of their own hands and their horses' mouths. When we -had reached the height, we dismounted and walked through the woods that -crown the cliffs, which here rise to an elevation of some hundred feet -above the river. Our path lay through tangled brakes, where the withered -trees and fallen red leaves, the bright cedar bushes, and pale slabs of -granite, formed a fine and harmonious contrast of colouring; the whole -blending beautifully together under the grey light, that made it look -like one of Ruysdael's pictures. Our walk terminated at a little rocky -promontory, called the Devil's Pulpit, where, as legends say, Satan was -wont to preach, loud enough to drown the sound of the Sabbath bells in -New York. The Hudson, far below, lay leaden and sullen; the woods along -the shores looked withered and wintry; a thick curtain of vapour -shrouded all the distance: the effect of the whole was very sad and -beautiful; and had I been by myself I should have enjoyed it very much. -But I was in company, and, moreover, in company with two punsters, who -uttered their atrocities without remorse in the midst of all that was -most striking and melancholy in nature. When we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> mounted our horses -again, Mrs. —— complained that hers pulled her wrists most dreadfully; -and, as they seemed none of the strongest, I exchanged steeds with her. -The lady proprietress of the grounds over which we had been walking and -riding invited us into the house, but, being mounted, I declined, and we -set off for the pavilion. Just as we arrived there, it began to rain. -Mercy on me and Mrs. ——! how our arms will ach to-morrow! This worthy -animal of hers had a mouth a little worse than a donkey's. Arrived at -the pavilion, we dismounted, and swallowed sundry champagnes and lumps -of plum cake, which were singularly refreshing. We set off again, and -presently it began to pelt with rain. We reached and crossed the ferry -without gelling very wet. Arranged to ride on Wednesday, if fine, and so -home. Upon the whole, rather satisfied than otherwise with my -expedition. Dressed for dinner at once; went on with journal; Colonel -—— called, and sat some time. After dinner, embroidered till eight: -teaed:—my father went over to the theatre: I practised for two hours.</p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 18th.</i></h3> - -<p>The muscles of my arms (for I have such unlady-like things) stand out -like lumps of stone, with the fine exercise they had yesterday. I wonder -how Mrs. ——'s shoulders and elbows feel.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>It rained so, we hackneyed to church. This is twice Mr. —— has not -been to church, which is really very wrong, though it leaves us the pew -comfortably to ourselves. Dr. —— must be an excellent good man—his -sermons are every way delightful; good sense, sound doctrine, and withal -a most winning mildness and gentleness of manner. A benevolent good man, -I am sure, he must be. Came home—copied snuff-box verses for my father; -divided out my story of the Sisters into acts and scenes: began doing -the same by the English tragedy; but in the midst took a fancy to make a -story instead of a play of it—and so I will, I think. Dressed for -dinner. At about half-past five Colonel —— and his Quaker wife came. -She is a most delightful creature, with the sweetest expression of face -imaginable. She reminded me several times of dear Mrs. ——. Her dress, -too, the rich brown watered silk, made so plainly, recalled Mrs. —— to -me very forcibly. We had a very comfortable dinner and evening. They -went away at about half-past ten.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 19th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, wrote journal. Went out shopping and returning cards; -called on Mrs. ——, and was let in. I like her; she is a nice person, -with agreeable manners. Came home at about half-past two; put out things -for the theatre; dined at three. After dinner, pottered about clothes -till time to go to the theatre. The house was very good. My -benefit—play, Much Ado about Nothing. I played very well. I am much -improved in my comedy acting. Came home in a coach—it poured with rain. -What a stupid day! The accounts of cholera in New Orleans are frightful; -they have the yellow fever there too. Poor people! what an awful -visitation!</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 20th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, wrote journal. At twelve, went and called upon Mrs. -——: the day was bright, but bitter cold, with a keen piercing wind -that half cut one in half, and was delicious. The servant denied Mrs. -——; but we had hardly turned from the door when both the ladies came -rushing after us, with nothing on their heads and necks, and thin summer -gowns on. They brought us into a room where there was a fire fit to -roast an ox. No wonder the women here are delicate and subject to cold, -and die of consumption. Here were these sitting absolutely in an oven, -in clothes fit only for the hottest days in summer, instead of wrapping -themselves up well, and trotting out, and warming their blood -wholesomely with good hard exercise. The pretty Mrs. —— looks very -sickly, and coughs terribly. Her beauty did not strike me so much -to-day. I do not admire any body who looks as if a puff of wind would -break them in half, or a drop of water soak them through. I greatly -prefer her sister's looks, who certainly is not pretty, but tall and -straight, and healthy-looking, and springy as a young thing ought to be. -Was introduced to a most enchanting young Newfoundland dog, whom I -greatly coveted. Settled to ride to-morrow, if fine. Called at ——'s, -also at a furrier's about cap, and came home. Found —— and —— with -my father. What a very bad expression of face the former has; sneering -and false—terrible! I looked at —— with much respect. I like his -spirit, as it shines through his works, greatly. He was a pale -sickly-looking man, without any thing at all remarkable in the -expression of his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> countenance. While they were here, Mr. —— called to -settle about to-morrow. He is a nice person, sensible and civil, and -civil in the right way. Arrangements were made for dear ——'s going, -which I rejoiced in greatly. I do not like at all leaving her behind. -When the folks were gone, put out things for the theatre. While doing -so, Mr. —— and Mr. and Mrs. —— called. Great discoursing about -horses and horsemanship. Dined at three. After dinner, put fur upon my -habit. At half-past five, went to the theatre. House very good; play, -Hunchback. By the by, Colonel —— called to-day, to entreat me to go -and see his "Honour, the Recorder," who had sent me tickets of admission -to the town-hall, to see —— receive the freedom of the city. I could -not go, because of our horseback expedition—this by the way. I played -so-soish. —— was at the play; and at the end, somebody in the house -exclaimed, "Three cheers for ——!" whereupon a mingled chorus of -applause and hisses arose. The Vice-president looked rather silly, and -acknowledged neither the one nor the other. How well I remember the Duke -of —— coming to the orchestra to see this play, the night before it -was expected the Whigs would go out. I dare say he knew little enough -what the Hunchback was about. I do not think the people noticed him, -however; so the feeling of the pulse must have been unsatisfactory. Mr. -—— said to Modus to-night in the play, speaking of me, "a change of -linen will suffice for her." How absurd! we were all dying on the stage. -Came home; supped:—looked at silks; chose a lovely rose-coloured one to -line my Portia dress; with which good deed my day ended.</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 21st.</i></h3> - -<p>Looked at the sun, and, satisfied with his promise, went to bed again, -and slept till half-past eight. After breakfast, wrote to his honour, -the Recorder, an humble apology in true Old Bailey style. Wrote journal, -and began practising. Mrs. —— called before I was out of my bed to -tell us that the ——'s were not going, but that either her husband or -her brother-in-law would be too glad to go in the gig with D——. This, -however, the latter refused, not choosing, as she said, to make any -young man do the penance of keeping her company on a party of pleasure. -Dear good old D——! I was vexed and provoked; but it could not be -helped. At eleven, —— came for me. I found Mrs. —— in the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>carriage -waiting for me. We adjourned to Warren Street, where were assembled all -the party. While we waited for our horses, Neptune, the beautiful -Newfoundland, was admitted, and amused himself by prancing over tables, -and chairs, and sofas, to his own infinite delight, and the visible -benefit of the furniture. Our steeds having arrived, we mounted and -began to progress. Myself, and Mrs. ——, her husband, his brother, -——, and papa ——, Dr. ——, Mrs. ——'s brother, and Mr. ——, -nephew, I believe, of the Irish patriot, were the equestrians of the -party. After, followed Mr. —— and Mrs. ——, all be-coated and -be-furred, in the stanhope. After, followed the ammunition-waggon, -containing a negro servant, Neptune, and sundry baskets of champagne, -cake, and cherry bounce. Away we rushed down Broadway, to the infinite -edification of its gaping multitudes. Mr. —— had gotten me an -enchanting horse that trotted like an angel. So, in spite of Major -——'s awful denunciation of "disgusting," I had a delicious hard trot -all through the streets, rising in my saddle like a lady, or rather, a -gentleman. My habit seemed to excite considerable admiration and -approbation, and indeed it was <i>great</i>. Crossed the Brooklyn ferry in -the steam-boat, and safely landed on the opposite side. The whole army -defiled; the stanhope taking the van, the horses forming the main body, -and the provisions bringing up the rear. Our party separated constantly, -as we progressed, into various groups, but I remained chiefly with Dr. -——, Mr. ——, and old Mr. ——. By the by, those ——s are a charming -family; for Mrs. —— sits straight in her saddle, and the Doctor -settled, when we started, that when he had <i>despatched his patients</i>, he -would call for D—— in the gig, and come down to meet us at the fort. -Our ride thither was extremely agreeable: the day was clear, cold, and -grey; a delightful day for riding. I trotted to my heart's content; and -kept my blood warm, and my spirits like champagne, till we reached the -fort, when, at sight of the Narrows, and the Sandy Hook lighthouse, they -sank deep, deep down.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The sea lay grey and still, without a wave or scarce a ripple. A -thousand light skiffs, of various shapes, lay upon the leaden waters. -The sky was a fine heap of heavy purple clouds, from behind which the -sun shot down his rays, which threw a melancholy wan lustre on the sea -beneath them. 'Twas a sad and beautiful scene. The colouring of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> the -whole was gloomily harmonious; and the dark shores and grey expanse of -water blended solemnly with the violet-coloured curtain of the heavens. -We went over the fort. 'Tis a fortification of no great size, or, I -should think, strength; but its position, which commands the narrow -entrance to the bay of New York, effectually checks the pass, and guards -the watery defile that leads to the city of Mammon. We looked at the -guns and powder-magazine, walked round the walls, and peeped into the -officers' quarters, and then descended to seek where we might eat and be -satisfied. Mrs. —— is a very nice creature: she looks the picture of -good temper—never stands still a minute; and as we rode along to-day, -when, fearing she might be cold, I asked her how she found herself, she -replied, with perfect innocence and sincerity, "Oh, delightful!" which -made us all scream. We knocked up the quarters of an old woman who kept -a cottage, not exactly young love's humble shed, but good enough for our -purpose. We got sundry logs of wood, and made a blazing fire; moreover, -the baskets were opened, and presently we presented the interesting -spectacle of a dozen people each with a lump of cake in one hand, and a -champagne glass in the other. Mr. —— and Mrs. —— stuck to the cherry -bounce, and, as we afterwards heard, drove home accordingly. Having -discussed, we remounted, and set forwards home by another road; a very -lovely one, all along the river side. Ere we had progressed long, we met -D—— and Dr. —— in the gig. The nice good man had kept his word, and -gone to fetch her. They had met Mr. ——'s equipage going cherry-bounce -pace, it seems, two miles ahead of us. The men here are never happy -unless they are going full speed. 'Tis no wonder their horses are good -for nothing: they would ruin any horses that were good for any -thing.<a name="FNanchor_61_61" id="FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a> Such unskilful horsemanship I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> never saw: going full tear; -crossing one another in every direction; knocking up against one -another; splashing through puddles because they have no hand over their -horses, and either overshooting their point, or being half thrown at -every turn of the road, for the same reason. Came home full speed, and -arrived at half-past four, having ridden, I should think, nearly twenty -miles. Found Mrs. —— at home. They pressed me very much to stay dinner -with them; but my father expected me, and I would not. That worthy -youth, ——, insisted upon my accepting his beautiful large dog, -Neptune, which I did conditionally, in case Mr. —— should fail me, -which I think a very improbable case indeed. They ordered the carriage, -and Mr. —— persisted in seeing me home in it, much to my annoyance, as -'twas a very useless ceremony indeed. Did not dishabit, but dined <i>en -amazone</i>.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Gave D—— her muff and tippet, which are exceedingly magnificent. After -dinner, pottered about, and dressed at once. Played on the piano till -nine, when we adjourned to ——'s. A complete "small party, my dear." -Dr. —— was there, whom I was glad to see; also Mrs. ——; also Mr. and -Miss ——; also that Mrs. ——, who is utter horror and perturbation of -spirit to me; also ——; also ——; all our riding party, and a world -besides. After a little time, dancing was proposed; and I stood up to -waltz with Mr. ——, who observed that Dr. —— was gone, as he never -chose to be present while waltzing was going on. I felt shocked to death -that unconsciously I should have been instrumental in driving him away, -and much surprised that those who knew his disapprobation of waltzing -should have proposed it. However, he was gone, and did not return. -Therefore I waltzed myself out of my conscientious remorse. Sang them -Fanny Gray, and Ye Mariners of Spain. Danced sundry quadrilles; and, -finally, what they called a Kentucky reel,—which is nothing more than -Sir Roger de Coverley turned Backwoodsman—and afterwards a "foursome -reel." Played magic music; and, finally, at one o'clock, came home, -having danced myself fairly off my legs.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 22d.</i></h3> - -<p>It poured with rain all day. Dr. —— called, and gave me a sermon about -waltzing. As it was perfectly good sense, to which I could reply<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> -nothing whatever in the shape of objection, I promised him never to -waltz again, except with a woman, or my brother.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>After all, 'tis not fitting that a man should put his arm round one's -waist, whether one belongs to any one but one's self or not. 'Tis much -against what I have always thought most sacred,—the dignity of a woman -in her own eyes and those of others. I like Dr. —— most exceedingly. -He spoke every way to my feelings of what was right, to-day. After -saying that he felt convinced, from conversations which he had heard -amongst men, that waltzing was immoral in its tendency, he added, "I am -married, and have been in love, and cannot imagine any thing more -destructive of the deep and devoted respect which love is calculated to -excite in every honourable man's heart, not only for the individual -object of his affections, but for her whole sex, than to see any and -every impertinent coxcomb in a ball-room come up to her, and, without -remorse or hesitation, clasp her waist, imprison her hand, and -absolutely whirl her round in his arms." So spake the Doctor; and my -sense of propriety and conviction of right bore testimony to the truth -of his saying. So, farewell, sweet German waltz!—next to hock, the most -intoxicating growth of the Rheinland. I shall never keep time to your -pleasant measure again!—no matter; after all, any thing is better than -to be lightly spoken of, and to deserve such mention. Mr. —— called, -and sat some time with me. He is grown monstrously fat, and looks -perfectly radiant. He brought with him a good-looking staring man of the -name of ——. We dined at three. After dinner, received a pretty -anonymous nosegay, with sundry very flattering doggrel. The play was the -Stranger. It poured cats and dogs, and the streets were all grey -pudding. I did not expect to see six people in the house; instead of -which 'twas crowded: a satisfactory proof of our attraction.</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 23d.</i></h3> - -<p>At eleven, went to rehearsal—Isabella. I have forgotten all about it. -They all read their parts; came home; began to practise. The two Mrs. -—— called. I like them mainly, Mrs. —— particularly. While they were -here, Mr. —— and a man called; they stayed but a minute. By and by, in -walked Mr. and Mrs. ——; whereupon the —— departed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>While they were here, received from —— the beautiful annual he has -bought for me, which is, indeed, most beautiful; and with it, literally -a copy of verses, which are <i>not so bad neither</i>—only think of that!!! -The engravings are from things of Stanfield's, taken on the Rhine; and -made my heart ach to be once more in Europe, in the old land where fairy -tales are told; in the old feudal world, where every rock, and valley, -and stream, are haunted with imaginings wild and beautiful: the hallowed -ground of legend history; the dream-land of fancy and of poetry. Put out -things for the theatre: dined at three. Colonel —— called: he brought -news of the arrival of a Liverpool packet, and prophesied letters to me. -Went to the theatre. Play, Hunchback—house very fine again. Just as I -was dressing for the second act, three letters were brought into my -room.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I was so much overset by them, that with the strange faculty I have of -pouring one feeling into another, I cried so bitterly in the parting -scene with Clifford, that I could scarcely utter the words of my part.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 24th.</i></h3> - -<p>Our riding expedition having been put off, the day was beautifully -bright and clear. Sat stitching and pottering an infinity. My feet got -so perished that I didn't know what to do. Wrote journal; practised for -an hour; Mr. —— called. When he was gone, went out with my father. -Called at ——'s to order home my gown for dinner-time. Left a card at -Mrs. ——'s, and then marched down to the tailor's to upbraid him about -my waistcoat, which is infamously ill made.<a name="FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a> Coming<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> home, met that -very odious Mr. ——, who is the perfection of genteel vulgarity. He -walked home with us. Dressed for dinner. Mme. —— did not send my gown -home in time: abominable sempstress! so put on my blue, and looked -rather dowdy. Found sundry that we knew: Colonel ——; Mr. ——; my -favourite aversion, Mr. ——; that signal fool, Mr. ——; Miss ——, who -looked like a hair-dresser's wax block; a Miss ——, with lovely feet, -and a terrified Bacchante-looking head, <i>cum multis aliis</i>. I sat by one -Mr. ——, who talked without end, and cleverly enough: indeed, it was -rather clever to talk so wonderfully fast and much. After dinner, the -party became much larger: Dr. ——, Mr. ——, the —— (all but ——), -that entire self-satisfaction, Mr. ——, Mr. ——, and the knight of the -rueful countenance; three singing men, ycleped ——; and a shoal -besides. One of the Mr. —— and Miss —— sang the duet in the Didone, -that dear —— and —— used to sing so lovelily. They both had good -voices, but the style is but so-soish. Presently, three men sang that -sea glee that I remember Lord and Lady —— teaching me at ——. What a -strange faculty of our nature this is, this leading back of our minds to -the past, through the agency of our senses, acted upon by present -influences, the renewing life, the magical summoning up of dead time -from its grave, with the very place and circumstance it wore. Wondrous -riddle! what—what are we, that are so curiously made? By and by dancing -was proposed, and I was much entreated and implored to change my -determination about waltzing; but I was inexorable, and waltzed only -with the ladies, who one and all dance extremely well. Mrs. —— looked -lovely to-night. Dr. —— says very true, she has a thorough-bred look, -which reminds me a little of our noble English ladies. He says she is -like Lady ——. I think she is prettier: she certainly looks like a gem. -We danced a Kentucky reel, and sundry quadrilles. That long ens, Mr. -——, was tipsy, and went slithering about in a way to kill one; and Mr. -—— was sitting slyly in the corner, pretending to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> talk to D——, but -in fact dying with laughter at poor ——, who meandered about the room, -to the infinite dismay and confusion of the whole dance. Vain were the -vigorous exertions of his partner, who pulled him this way and that, and -pushed him hither and thither, to all which the unresisting creature -submitted incorrigibly. Remained dancing till half-past twelve, in fact -Sunday morning, and then came home. They made me sing, which I did -abominably. On my return home, found my black satin gown, every atom of -which will have to be unpicked—pleasant! the tradespeople here are -really terrible; they can do nothing, and will take no pains to do any -thing: 'tis a handsome gown spoilt.<a name="FNanchor_63_63" id="FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a></p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 25th.</i></h3> - -<p>My dear father's birth-day! also, by the by, a grand occasion here—the -anniversary of the evacuation of the island by the British troops, which -circumstance the worthy burghers have celebrated ever since with due -devotion and thankfulness. Went to church: Dr. —— did<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> not preach, -which was a disappointment to me. The music was exquisite; and there was -a beautiful graceful willow branch, with its long delicate fibres and -golden leaves, waving against the blue sky and the church window, that -seemed to me like a magical branch in a fairy tale. It struck me as -strange to-day, as I looked from the crowded gloomy church to the bright -unbounded sky, to think that we call the one the house of God; to be -sure, we have other authority for calling the blue heavens his throne; -and oh, how glorious they did look! The day was bright, but bitter cold. -Coming out of church, saw all our last night's party. On my return home -found a perfect levee; Dr. ——, Mr. ——, Mr. ——, Mr. ——, Mr. ——, -a whole regiment. When they were all gone, wrote journal: having -finished that and my lunch, set out with my father to <i>fetch a walk</i>; -which we did to the tune of near six miles, through all the outskirts of -the town, an exceedingly low-life ramble indeed—during which we came -across a man who was preaching in the street. He had not a very large -assembly round him, and we stood in the crowd to hear him. By his own -account, he had been imprisoned before for a similar proceeding; and he -was denouncing, most vehemently, signal judgments on the blind and -wicked corporation who had so stopped the work of righteousness. The -man's face was a very fine one, remarkably intelligent and handsome: he -was cleanly and well dressed, and had altogether a respectable -appearance. When we came home, it was past four. Dressed for dinner. My -father dined with Mr. ——; so D—— and I had a <i>tête-à-tête</i> dinner. -After which, played on the piano for some time; after which, began -letter to H——; after which, wrote journal.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 26th.</i></h3> - -<p>Yesterday was evacuation day; but as yesterday was the Lord's day also, -the American militia army postponed their yearly exhibition, and, -instead of rushing about the streets in token of their thankfulness at -the departure of the British, they quietly went to church, and praised -God for that same. To-day, however, we have had firing of pop-guns, -waving of star-spangled banners (some of them rather the worse for -wear), infantry marching through the streets, cavalry (oh, Lord, what<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> -delicious objects they were!) and artillery prancing along them, to the -infinite ecstasy and peril of a dense mob. Went to rehearsal at -half-past ten. Was detained full ten minutes on the way thither, by the -defiling of troops, who were progressing down Broadway. After rehearsal, -came home—put out things for the theatre. Mr. —— called: while he was -here, spent a delightful half hour at the window, which, overlooking the -Park, commanded a full view of the magnanimous military marshalled -there. O, pomp and circumstance of glorious war! They were certainly not -quite so bad as Falstaff's men, of ragged memory; for, for aught I know -to the contrary, they perhaps <i>all</i> of them had shirts to their backs. -But some had gloves, and some had none; some carried their guns one way, -and some another; some had caps of one fashion, and some of another; -some had no caps at all, but "shocking bad hats," with feathers in -them.<a name="FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a> The infantry were, however, comparatively respectable troops. -They did not march many degrees out of the straight line, or stoop <i>too -much</i>, or turn their heads round <i>too often</i>. Mr. —— remarked, that -militia were seldom more steady and orderly in their appearance. But the -cava'ry! oh, the cavalry! what gems without price<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> they were! Apparently -extremely frightened at the shambling <i>tituppy</i> chargers upon whose -backs they clung, straggling in all directions, putting the admiring -crowd in fear of their lives, and proving beyond a doubt how formidable -they must appear to the enemy, when, with the most peaceable intentions -in the world, they thus jeopardied the safety of their enthusiastic -fellow citizens. Bold would have been the man who did not edge backwards -into the crowd, as a flock of these worthies a-horseback came down the -street—some trotting, some galloping, some racking, some ambling; each -and all "witching the world with wondrous horsemanship." If any thing -ever might be properly called wondrous, they, their riders and -accoutrements, deserve the title. Some wore boots, and some wore shoes, -and one independent hero had got on grey stockings and <i>slippers</i>! Some -had bright yellow feathers, and some red and black feathers! I -remembered, particularly, a doctor, in a black suit, Hessian boots, a -cocked hat, and bright yellow gauntlets; another fellow was dressed in -the costume of one of the Der Freyschutz's corps: it looked for all the -world like a <i>fancy</i> parade. The officers fulfilled completely my idea -of Macheath's company of gentlemen of the road; only, I strongly suspect -the latter would have been heartily ashamed of the unhappy hacks the -evacuation heroes had gotten up upon. The parade terminated with a full -half hour's <i>feu de joie</i>.<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id="FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span></p><p>The bands of these worthies were worthy of them; half a dozen fifers -and drummers playing old English jig tunes. In spite of the folly and -injustice of such a comparison, I could not keep out of my head the last -soldiers I had seen, those fine tall fellows, the grenadier guards, that -used to delight us of a Sunday morning in St. James's Park, and their -exquisite band, and dandy-looking officers. Those <i>looked</i> like -soldiers, whatever they may fight like; and allowing these excellent -good folks to be very lions, look you, I can only say their appearance -approached the sublime, by as near as the French critic assures us the -extreme of the ridiculous does. Dined at three; —— and —— called -after dinner. My father went with Mr. —— to Tammany Hall,<a name="FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a> where -there was a grand democratic dinner, in honour of the triumph of the -Jackson party, the mob men here. I sat writing to —— till time to go -to the theatre. The play was Isabella; the house crammed; a regular -holiday audience—shrieking, shouting, laughing, and rowing, like one of -our own Christmas audiences. I acted like a wretch. My dresses looked -very handsome, particularly my marriage dress; but my muslin bed-gown -was so long that, I set my feet through it the very first thing; and -those <i>animaux bêtes</i>, who dragged me off, tore a beautiful point lace -veil I had on to tatters, a thing that cost three guineas, if a -farthing! My father received a most amusing letter this morning from -Lord ——, asking us to come over to Jamaica and act, offering us -quarters in his house, and plenty of volunteer actors (did he include -himself, I wonder?) to make up a company, if we will come. I should like -it very well: to pass the winter in that nice warm climate would be -delightful, and I dare say we should find our stay there amusing and -agreeable enough. I wish we could do it.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 27th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, Colonel —— called. Put out things for to-night. At -half-past twelve, went out with my father and Colonel ——. Called upon -his honour, the Recorder, but he was in court, and not to be seen. -Walked down to the Battery. The day was most lovely, like an early day -in June in England: my merino gown was intolerable, and I was obliged to -take a parasol with me, the sun was so powerful. The Battery was, as -usual, totally deserted, though the sky, and shores, and beautiful -bright bay, were smiling in perfect loveliness. A delicious fresh breeze -came wandering over the wide estuary; and graceful boats, with their -full sails glittering in the sun, glided to and fro, swift and strong, -over the smooth waters, like summer clouds across the blue heavens—as -silently, as rapidly, as tracklessly.<a name="FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Came home at half-past one. Found a card from Mrs. ——. I'm sorry I -didn't see her. —— called, with one Mr. ——, kinsman to the -authoress.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>While they were here, Mrs. —— called to settle about to-morrow's ride. -Mr. and Mrs. —— arriving, the rest departed. We dined at three. After -dinner, came to my own room; wrote journal; went on with letter to ——. -At half-past five, went to the theatre. Play, the Gamester; my father's -benefit; the house was very good. I played pretty well. Mr. —— -thoroughly bothered me, by standing six yards behind me: what a complete -stroller's trick that is. So we are to act on Saturday. If I can go to -the opera, all the same, I sha'n't mind so much; but I will be in most -horrible dudgeon if it prevents that, for I want to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> hear this new prima -donna. Mr. —— was behind the scenes, and —— <i>wrapt</i>, in his usual -seat: he's a delightful bit of audience. Received a bill of the intended -performances for Thursday, Mr. ——'s benefit; and such another farce as -the whole thing is I never heard of; as Mr. —— says, "the benefit of -humbug," indeed.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Came home. While we were at supper, my father showed me a note he had -received from ——, which, to use a most admirable vulgarism, struck me -all of a heap. A sort of threatening letter, desiring him, as he valued -his interest, to come forward and offer to act Charles the Second for -the said Mr. ——'s benefit, having already agreed to act in one piece, -for said Mr. ——'s benefit. "O monstrous! monstrous! most unnatural!" -What a vulgar wretch the man must be!</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 28th.</i></h3> - -<p>Mary ——'s wedding day! Poor lassie! I looked at the bright morning sun -with pleasure for her sake. After breakfast, sat reading the poems of -Willis, a young man, whose works, young as they evidently are, would -have won him some consideration in any but such a thorough work-day -world as this. I cried a good deal over some of this man's verses. I -thought some of them beautiful; and 'tis the property of beauty to stir -the wells of my soul sadly, rather than cast sunshine over them. I think -all things are sad. 'Tis sad to hear sweet music; 'tis sad to read fine -poetry; 'tis sad to look upon the beautiful face of a fair woman; 'tis -sad to behold the unclouded glory of a summer's sky. There is a deep and -lingering tone in the harmony of all beauty that resounds in our souls -with too full and solemn a vibration for pleasure alone. In fact, -<i>intensity</i>, even of joy and delight, is in itself serious; 'tis -impossible to be fulfilled with emotion of any sort, and not feel as -though we were within the shadow of a cloud.<a name="FNanchor_68_68" id="FNanchor_68_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a> I remember when first I -recited Juliet to my mother, she said I spoke the balcony<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> scene almost -sadly. Was not such deep, deep love too strong, too passionate, too -pervading, to be uttered with the light laughing voice of pleasure? Was -not that love, even in its fulness of joy, sad—awful? However, perhaps, -I do but see through my own medium, and fancy it the universal one. My -eyes are dark, and most things look darkly through them. At about twelve -o'clock Mrs. —— called for me; and, escorted by her husband and Mr. -——, we rode forth to visit the island. We went to a pretty cottage -belonging to Mr. ——'s father-in-law, Dr. ——. The day was still and -grey—a pleasant day; there was no sunshine, but neither were there any -dark shadows. My horse had been ill ridden by somebody or another, and -was mighty disagreeable. Our ride was pleasant enough: there was not -much variety in the country we passed through. Masses of granite and -greenish basalt, wild underwood, and vivid bright-looking cedar bushes. -The Hudson lay leaden and sullen under the wings of the restless wind. -We stood to hear the delicious music of the water plashing against the -rocky shore, which is the pleasantest sound in all the world. We then -rode to a place ycleped Hell-gate,<a name="FNanchor_69_69" id="FNanchor_69_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a> from a dangerous current in the -East river, where ships have been lost—and home through the mellow -sunlight of a warm autumnal afternoon. Came in at a little past four. -Devoured sundry puddings and pies; put out clothes for the evening; -dined at five. My father dined at ——'s: I've an especial fancy for -that man. After dinner, sat making blonde tippet, and strumming on the -piano till eight. Drank tea, dressed, and off to Mrs. ——'s "small -party, my dear."</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The people here have no conscience about the questions they ask, and, as -I have one in answering, and always give them "the truth, the whole -truth, and nothing but the truth," it follows that nothing can be more -disagreeable than their queries, except my replies. Mr. —<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span>— was there; -I like him: he has something in him, and is not vulgar or impertinent. -Was introduced to a very handsome French creole woman,<a name="FNanchor_70_70" id="FNanchor_70_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a> whom I liked: -she reminded me of my mother, and her son bore a striking resemblance to -dear ——. We stood up to dance a couple of quadrilles; but as they had -not one distinct idea of what the figures were, the whole was a mess of -running about, explaining, jostling, and awkward blundering.<a name="FNanchor_71_71" id="FNanchor_71_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a> I took -greatly to the governess of the family, a German woman, with a right -German face, a nice person, with quiet simple manners. The women's -voices here distract me; so loud, so rapid, and with such a twang! What -a pity! for they are, almost without an exception, lovely looking -creatures, with an air of refinement in their appearance, which would be -very attractive, but for their style of dress, and those said tremendous -shrill loud voices.<a name="FNanchor_72_72" id="FNanchor_72_72"></a><a href="#Footnote_72_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a> Came home at twelve o'clock. My favourite -aversion, Mrs. ——, was there.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 29th.</i></h3> - -<p>My birth-day</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>After breakfast, sat writing to dear —— for some time. Put out things -for the theatre, and went to rehearsal. My father has received a most -comical note from one ——, a Scotch gardener, florist, and seedsman; -the original, by the by, of Galt's Lawrie Todd,—and original enough he -must be. The note expresses a great desire that my father and myself -will call upon him, for that he wishes very much to <i>look at us</i>—that -the hours of the theatre are too late for him, and that besides, he -wants to see us as ourselves, and not as "kings and princesses." I have -entreated my father to go: this man must be worth knowing. I shall -certainly keep his note. After rehearsal, came home. Wrote to ——, to -dear ——. Mr. —— called; also Colonel ——, who gave an account of -the proceedings of the committee for ——'s benefit, which, added to the -gentleman's own note to my father, thoroughly disgusted me. And here I -do solemnly swear, never again, with my own good will, to become -acquainted with any man in any way connected with the public press. They -are utterly unreliable people, generally; their vocation requires that -they should be so; and the very few exceptions I must forego, for -however I might like them, I can neither respect nor approve of their -trade; for trade it is in the vilest sense of the word.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> Dined at five. -After dinner Mr. and Mrs. —— came in.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>At eight, went to the theatre. The house was, in consequence of the -raised prices, only three parts full. I just caught a glimpse of Forrest -in the fourth act of Brutus. What an enormous man he is! After the play -came sundry songs and recitations, and then Katharine and Petruchio. I -did not play well: the actors were very inattentive, as well as stupid, -and annoyed my father very much. The pit was half filled with women, -opera fashion, who, for the greater attraction of the night, and -satisfaction of themselves, were allowed to sit out of their proper -places: to be sure they had the pleasure of the society of the volunteer -heroes, who, for the benefit of Mr. ——, were all in full uniform. What -an absurdity! Swallowed an ice. Saw ——, also Mr. ——, and young —— -behind the scenes. Came home and supped. Colonel —— called, and -discussed, first, the farce on the boards; then the farce before the -curtain; finally, the farce of life, which, to my mind, is but a -melancholy one.</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 30th.</i></h3> - -<p>How the time goes! Bless the old traveller, how he posts along! After -breakfast, Mrs. —— and her son, and Mr. —— called. I like the -latter; his manners are very good, and he is altogether more like a -gentleman than most men here. When they were gone, walked out with my -father to ——'s. The day was grey, and cold, and damp—a real November -day, such as we know them. We held the good man's note, and steered our -course by it, and in process of time entered a garden, passed through a -green-house, and arrived in an immense and most singularly-arranged -seed-shop, with galleries running round it, and the voice of a hundred -canaries resounding through it. I don't know why, but it reminded me of -a place in the Arabian Nights. "Is Mr. —— within?" shouted forth my -father, seeing no one in this strange-looking abode. "Yes, he is," was -replied from somewhere, by somebody. We looked about, and presently, -with his little grey bullet head, and shrewd piercing eyes, just -appearing above the counter, we detected the master of the house. My -father stepped up to him with an air like the Duke of ——, and, -returning his coarse curiously-folded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> note to him, said, "I presume I -am addressing Mr. ——: this, sir," drawing me forward, "is Miss Fanny -Kemble." The little man snatched off his spectacles, rushed round the -counter, rubbed his enormous hand upon his blue stuff apron, and held it -out to us with a most hearty welcome. He looked at us for some time, and -then exclaimed, "Ha! ye're her father. Well, ye'll have married pretty -early—ye look very young: I should not have been sae much surprised if -ye had called her ye're wife!" I laughed, and my father smiled at this -compliment, which was recommended by a broad Scotch twang, which always -sounds sweetly in my ears. The little man, whose appearance is that of a -dwarf in some fairy tale, then went on to tell us how Galt had written a -book all about him; how it was, almost word for word, his own story; how -he had come to this country in early life, with three halfpence in his -pocket, and a nail and hammer in his hand, for all worldly substance; -how he had earned his bread by making nails, which was his business in -Scotland; how, one day, passing by some flowers exposed for sale, he had -touched a geranium leaf by accident, and, charmed with its fragrance, -bought it, having never seen one before; how, with fifteen dollars in -his pocket, he commenced the business of a florist and gardener; and how -he had refused as many thousand dollars for his present prosperous -concern; how, when he first came to New York, the place opposite his -garden, where now stands a handsome modern dwelling-house, was the site -of a shed where he did his first bit of work; how, after six-and-twenty -years' absence from Scotland, he returned home; how he came to his -father's house—"'Twas on a bright morning in August—the eighth of -August, just, it was—when I went through the door. I knew all the old -passages so well: I opened the parlour door, and there, according to the -good old Scottish custom, the family were going to prayers afore -breakfast. There was the old Bible on the table, and the old clock -ticking in the corner of the room; there was my father in his own old -chair, exactly just where I had left him six-and-twenty years gone by. -The very shovel and tongs by the fire were the same; I knew them all. I -just sat down, and cried as sweetly as ever a man did in his life." -These were, as nearly as I can recollect, his words; and oh, what a -story! His manner, too, was indescribably vivid and graphic. My father's -eyes filled with tears. He stretched out his hand, and grasped and shook -the Scotchman's hand repeatedly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> without speaking; I never saw him more -excited. I never was more struck myself with the wonderful strangeness -of this bewildering life. He showed us the foot of a rude rustic-looking -table. "That," he said, "was cut from out the hawthorn hedge that grows -by my father's house; and this," showing us a wooden bowl, "is what I -take my <i>parritch</i> in!" I asked him if he never meant to leave this -country, and return to bonny Scotland. He said, No, never: he might -return, but he never meant to settle any where but here. "For," added -he, "I have grown what I am in it, madam, and 'tis a fine country for -the poor." He had been an early martyr, too, to his political opinions; -and, when only nineteen years of age, had been imprisoned in Edinburgh -for advocating the cause of that very reform which the people are at -this moment crying jubilee over in England. He seemed to rejoice in this -country, as in the wide common land of political freedom, unbounded by -the limits of long-established prejudice, unbroken by the deep trenches -which divide class from class in the cultivated soil of the old world. I -could have listened to this strange oracle for a day; but in the midst -of his discourse he was summoned to dinner; and presenting his son to -us, who presented a nosegay to me, left us to wander about his singular -domain. His father, by the by, is still alive, and residing within six -miles of Edinburgh, a man of ninety years and upwards. We walked about -the shop, visited the birds, who are taken most admirable care of, and -are extremely beautiful. I saw several mocking birds: they should sing -well, for they are not pretty. Their plumage is of a dull grey colour, -and they are clumsy-looking birds.<a name="FNanchor_73_73" id="FNanchor_73_73"></a><a href="#Footnote_73_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a> Saw two beautiful African widow -birds, with their jet black hoods and trains. Saw an English blackbird, -and thrush, <i>in cages</i>. They made my heart ach. I wonder if they ever -think of the red ripe cracking cherries, the rich orchard lands, and the -hawthorn-hedged lanes in the summer sunsets of dear England? I did for -them. We then went and looked at a tank full of beautiful gold fish, as -they indiscriminately called them. But though the greater number were -the glittering scarlet creatures usually so denominated, some were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> of -the richest purple, with a soft dark bloom playing over their sides; -others, again, were perfectly brown, with a glancing golden light -shining through their scales; others were palest silver; others, again, -mingled the dazzling scarlet with spots of the most beautiful gloomy -violet, like dark-coloured jewels set in fire. Their tank was planted -with the roots of aquatic vegetables, which, in summer, spread their -cool leaves over the water, which is perpetually renewed by means of an -escape, and a little silvery fountain which keeps bubbling up in the -midst. They seemed very happy, and devoured sundry pieces of wafer -paper, while we admired them at our leisure. Saw an India-rubber tree, a -very young one, which had not attained its full growth. 'Tis a fine -broad-leaved tree, unlike any that I ever saw before. After dawdling -about very satisfactorily for some time, we departed from the dwelling -of Lawrie Todd. Of a verity, "truth is strange, stranger than fiction." -Went to a bookseller's. I bought a Bible for little ——; my father, a -Shakspeare for ——. Came home. Mr. —— called, and gossiped some time -with me. Told me a bit of scandal, of which I had some slight suspicion -before, <i>i. e.</i> that Mr. —— was pretty Mrs. ——'s very devoted. At -half-past four dressed for dinner. Colonel —— called just as we were -going to dinner. At five, my father and I went to Mrs. ——'s. A -pleasant dinner. I like him enough, and I like her very much. She is -extremely pretty, and very pleasant. Sat by that tall ninny, Mr. ——, -who uttered inanity the whole of dinner-time. After dinner, the usual -entertaining half hour among the ladies passed in looking over -caricatures. When the men joined us, Mr. —— came and sat down by me, -and in the course of a few minutes, poor Lord —— having by chance been -mentioned, we fell into English talk; and it appears that he knows -sundry of my gracious <i>patrons</i>; among the rest, the ——s. He had been -at ——; and it pleased me to speak of it again. But what in the name of -all wonders could possess him with the idea that Lady —— was guilty of -editing the Comic Annual. Was asked to sing, and sang "Ah no ben mio" -pretty well. Mr. —— sang a thing of his own very well, though it was -not in itself worth much. Discussed all manner of prima donnas with him. -At half-past nine, D—— came for me, and we proceeded to the ——s. The -people here never tell one when they mean to dance; the consequence is, -that one is completely put out about one's toilet. I was in a black -satin dress; and dancing in these hot rooms,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> might as well have been in -a pall.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>In the middle of the evening, Dr. —— asked if I would allow him to -introduce to me one Mr. ——, a very delightful man, full of abilities, -<i>and</i> writer in such and such a paper. I immediately called to mind my -resolution, and refused. In the mean time, Mrs. ——, less scrupulous, -and without asking my leave, brought the gentleman up, and introduced -him. I was most ungracious and forbidding, and meant to be so. I am -sorry for this, but I cannot help it: he is ——'s brother, too, which -makes me doubly sorry. As he is an agreeable man, and ——'s brother, I -esteem and reverence him; but, as he belongs to the press gang, I will -not know him. The room was full of pretty women, one prettier than -another. I danced myself half dead, and came home. By the by, was -introduced to young ——, who, at the corner of a street, with a red cap -on his head, might pass for a capital hickory pole. Mrs. ——'s -bed-room, where we left our cloaks, made my heart ach. 'Twas exactly -like my dear little bed-room at home; the bed, the furniture, and the -rose-coloured lining, all the same.</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, December 1st, 1832.</i></h3> - -<p>First day of the last month of the year—go it, old fellow! I'm sick of -the road, and would be at my journey's end. Got two hundred dollars from -my father, and immediately after breakfast sallied forth: paid bills and -visits, and came home. Found my father sitting with our kinsman, Mr. -——, busily discussing the family origin, root, branches, and all. We -are an old family, they say, but the direct line is lost after Charles -the Second's reign. Our kinsman is a nice man, with a remarkably fine -face, with which I was greatly struck. When he was gone, persuaded my -father to come down and take a breathing on the Battery with me. And a -breathing it was with a vengeance. The wind blew tempestuously, the -waters, all troubled and rough, were of a yellow green colour, breaking -into short, strong, angry waves, whose glittering white crests the wind -carried away, as they sank to the level surface again. The shores were -all cold, distinct, sharp-cut, and wintry-looking, the sky was black and -gloomy, with now and then a watery wan sunlight running through it. The -wind was so powerful, we could scarcely keep<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> our legs. My sleeves and -skirts fluttered in the blast, my bonnet was turned front part behind, -my nose was blue, my cheeks were crimson, my hair was all tangled, my -breath was gone, my blood was in a glow: what a walk! Met dear Dr. ——, -whom I love. Came in—dined. After dinner, bethought me that I had not -called upon Mrs. ——, according to promise. Sent for a coach, and set -forth thither; didn't know the number, so drove up Spring Street, and -down Spring Street, and finally stopped at a shop, got a directory, and -found the address. Sat a few minutes with her, and at five o'clock left -her. The day was already gone—the <i>gloamin</i> come. The keen cutting wind -whizzed along the streets; huge masses of dark clouds, with soft brown -edges, lay on the pale delicate blue of the evening sky. The moon was -up, clear, cold, and radiant; the crowd had ebbed away from the busy -thoroughfare, and only a few men in great-coats buttoned up to their -chins, and women wrapped in cloaks, were scudding along in the dim -twilight and the bitter wind towards their several destinations, with a -frozen shuddering look that made me laugh. I had got perished in the -coach, and seeing that the darkness covered me, determined to walk home, -and bade the coach follow me. How pleasant it was! I walked tremendously -fast, enjoying the fresh breath of the north, and looking at the -glittering moon, as she rode high in the evening sky. How I do like -walking alone—being alone; for this alone I wish I were a man. At -half-past five, went to the theatre. The house was crammed; play, -Hunchback. I missed —— from his accustomed seat, and found that like a -very politician he had changed sides. I played abominably; my voice was -weak and fagged. After the play, Katharine and Petruchio. I played that -better; my father was admirable—it went off delightfully. When it was -over, they called for my father, and with me in his hand he went on. The -pit rose to us like Christians, and shouted and hallooed as I have been -used to hear. I felt sorry to leave them: they are a pleasant audience -to act to, and exceedingly civil to us, and I have got rather attached -to them. New York, too, seems nearer home than any other place, and I -felt sorry to leave it. When we had withdrawn, and were going up stairs, -we heard three distinct and tremendous cheers. On asking what that -meant, we learnt 'twas a compliment to us—thank 'em kindly. Came home: -found Mr. —— had sent me Contarini Fleming. Began reading it, and -could scarce eat my supper for doing so.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 2d.</i></h3> - -<p>While dressing, received a "sweet note" from Mrs. ——, accompanied with -a volume of Bryant's poetry, which, as I like very much, I am her -obliged. Swallowed two mouthfuls of bread, and away to church. It was -very crowded, and a worthy woman had taken possession of the corner seat -in Mr. ——'s pew, with a fidgetting little child, which she kept -dancing up and down every two minutes: though in church, I wished for -the days of King Herod. What strange thoughts did occur to me to-day -during service! 'Tis the first Sunday in Advent. The lesson for the day -contained the history of the Annunciation. What a mystery our belief is! -how seldom it is that we consider and, as it were, <i>take hold</i> of what -we say we believe, and when we do so, how bewildered and lost we -become,—how lost among a thousand wild imaginations,—how driven to and -fro by a thousand doubts,—how wrecked amidst a thousand fears! Surely -we should be humble: we should indeed remember that we <i>cannot know</i>, -and not strive for that knowledge which our souls will lose themselves -in seeking for, and our overstrained minds crack in reaching at.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>At the end of service they sang Luther's hymn. I cried with nervous -excitement, not at that, but at my recollection of Braham's singing it -with that terrible trumpet accompaniment, that used to make my heart -stand still and listen. Stayed and took the sacrament.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Came home: found a whole regiment of men. His honour the Recorder, who -is my especial delight, Mr. ——, ——, whom I greatly affection; to -these presently entered Mr. —— and Mr. ——. They one by one bade me -good-by; how disagreeable that is, that good-by! Mr. —— read me a -passage out of one of Jeffrey's letters, describing an English fine -lady. The picture is admirable, and most faithful; they are, indeed, -polished, brilliant, smooth as ice, as slippery, as treacherous, as -cold. When they were all gone, Colonel —— gave me to read the -<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span>descriptive sketch of the French opera, La Tentation, that has been -setting all Paris wild. What an atrocious piece of blasphemy, indecency, -and folly—what a thoroughly French invention. Mad people! mad people! -mad people! Looked over bills, settled accounts, righted desk, tore up -papers; among others, sundry anonymous love-letters that I had treasured -up as specimens of the purely funny in composition, but which began to -take up too much room. Dressed for dinner. After dinner, sat writing -journal, and reading Contarini Fleming.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 3d.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at half-past four. The sky was black as death, but in the night -winter had chopped his mantle on the earth, and there it lay, cold, and -purely white, against the inky sky. Dressed: crammed away all the -gleanings of the packing, and in thaw, and sleet, and rain, drove down -to the steam-boat. Went directly to the cabin. On my way thither, -managed to fall down half-a-dozen steep steps, and give myself as many -bruises. I was picked up and led to a bed, where I slept profoundly till -breakfast time. Our kinsman, Mr. ——, was our fellow-passenger: I like -him mainly. After breakfast, returned to my crib. As I was removing -Contarini Fleming, in order to lie down, a <i>lady</i> said to me, "Let me -look at one of those books;" and, without further word of question of or -acknowledgment, took it from my hand, and began reading. I was a <i>little -surprised</i>, but said nothing, and went to sleep. Presently I was roused -by a pull on the shoulder, and another lady, rather more civil, and -particularly considerate, asked me to do her the favour of lending her -the other. I said, by all manner of means, wished her at the devil, and -turned round to sleep once more. Arrived at Amboy, we disembarked and -bundled ourselves into our coach, ourselves, our namesake, and a pretty -quiet lady, who was going, in much heaviness of heart, to see a sick -child. The roads were unspeakable; the day most delightfully -disagreeable. My bruises made the saltatory movements of our crazy -conveyance doubly torturing; in short, all things were the perfection of -misery. I attempted to read, but found it utterly impossible to do so. -Arrived at the Delaware, we took boat again; and, as I was sitting very -quietly reading Contarini Fleming, with the second volume lying on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> -stool at my feet, the same unceremonious lady who had <i>borrowed</i> it -before snatched it up without addressing a single syllable to me, read -as long as she pleased, and threw it down again in the same style when -she went to dinner. Now I know that half the people here, if they were -to read that in Mrs. Trollope, would say, "Oh, but you know she could -not have been a lady, 'tis not fair to judge of our manners by the -vulgar specimens of American society which a steam-boat may afford." -Very true: but granting that she was <i>not</i> a lady (which she certainly -was not), supposing her to have been a housemaid, or any thing else of -equal pretensions to good breeding, the way to judge is by comparing -her, not with ladies in other countries, but with housemaids, persons in -her own condition of life; and 'tis most certain that no person -whatsoever, however ignorant, low, or vulgar, in England, would have -done such a thing as that. But the mixture of the republican feeling of -equality peculiar to this country, and the usual want of refinement -common to the lower classes of most countries, forms a singularly -felicitous union of impudence and vulgarity, to be met with no where but -in America.<a name="FNanchor_74_74" id="FNanchor_74_74"></a><a href="#Footnote_74_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a> Arrived at the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> Mansion House, which I was quite glad to -see again. Installed myself in a room, and, while they brought in the -packages, finished Contarini<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> Fleming. It reminded me of Combes' book: I -wonder whether he is turning phrenologist at all? those physiological -principles were the bosom friends of the Combes' phrenological ones. -Stowed away my things, made a delicious huge wood fire, dressed myself, -and went down to dinner. Our kinsman dined with us. Mr. —— came in -while we were at dinner. After dinner, came up to my room, continued -unpacking and putting away my things till near nine o'clock. When we -went down to tea, my father was lying on the sofa asleep, and a man was -sitting with his back to the door, reading the newspaper. He looked up -as we came in: it was ——, whom I greatly rejoiced to see again. During -tea, he told us all the Philadelphia gossip. So the ladies are all -getting up upon horses, and wearing the "<i>Kemble</i> cap," as they call -Lady ——'s device. How she would laugh if she could hear it; how I did -laugh when I did hear it. The Kemble cap, forsooth! thus it is that -great originators too often lose the fame of their inventions, and that -the glory of a <i>new idea</i> passes by the head that conceived it, to -encircle, as with a halo, that of some mere imitator; thus it is that -this very big world comes to be called America, and not Columbia, as it -<i>ought to</i>; thus it is—etc., etc., etc. He sat for some time. Saw poor -Mrs. ——.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>She is better, poor thing; I like her amazingly.</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 4th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast practised for two hours. —— called and stayed some -time. Came up to my own room; wrote journal: while doing so a note -containing two cards, and an invitation to "tea," from the Miss ——s -was brought to me. Presently I was called down to receive our kinsman, -who sat some time with me, whom I like most especially, who is a -gentleman, and a very nice person. Came up and resumed my journal: was -again summoned down to see young Mr. ——.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span></p><p>When he was gone, finished journal, wrote to Mrs. ——, to my mother, -read a canto in Dante, and began to write a novel. Dined at five. After -dinner, put out things for this evening, played on the piano, mended -habit shirt, dressed myself, and at a quarter to ten went to the theatre -for my father. I had on the same dress I wore at Devonshire House, the -night of the last ball I was at in England, and looked at myself in -amazement, to think of all the strangenesses that have befallen since -then. We proceeded to Miss ——'s, and this tea-party turned out to be a -very crowded dance, in small rooms upon carpets, and with a roasting -fire. Was introduced to all the world and his wife. Dr. —— claimed -acquaintance with us, and danced with me: I like his manners very much. -I have beheld Miss ——, and should doubtless now depart in peace.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Lord! Lord! what fools men and women do make themselves. Was introduced -to one Mr. ——, Mr. ——'s partner, whom I received graciously for the -sake of the good days on board the Pacific. Came away at a little after -twelve. I never felt any thing like the heat of the rooms, or heard any -thing so strange as the questions the people ask one, or saw any thing -more lovely than the full moonlight on the marble buildings of -Philadelphia.</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 5th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, practised: Mr. and Mrs. —— called, also Dr. ——. -Went and saw poor Mrs. —— for a little time; she interests me most -extremely—I like her very very much. Came up to my own room; read a -canto of Dante. Was called down to see folk, and found the drawing-room -literally thronged. The first face I made out was Mr. ——'s, for whom I -have taken an especial love: two ladies, a whole load of men, and Mr. -——, who had brought me a curious piece of machinery, in the shape of a -musical box, to look at. It contained a little bird, no larger than a -large fly, with golden and purple wings, and a tiny white beak. On the -box being wound up, this little creature flew out, and, perching itself -on the brink of a gold basin, began fluttering its wings, opening its -beak, and uttering sundry very melodious warblings, in the midst of -which, it sank suddenly down, and disappeared, the lid closed, and there -was an end. What a pity 'tis that we can only realise<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> fairy-land -through the means of machinery. One reason why there is no such thing -left as the believing faculty among men, is because they have themselves -learnt to make magic, and perform miracles. When the coast was once more -clear, I returned to my room, got out things for the theatre, dined -<i>tête-à-tête</i> with D——; my father dined at the public table. After -dinner, came up stairs, read Grahame, wrote journal, began my novel -under another shape. I can't write prose; (query, can I any thing else?) -I don't know how, but my sentences are the comicalest things in the -world; the end forgets the beginning, and the whole is a perfect -labyrinth of parenthesis within parenthesis. Perhaps, by the by, without -other view, it would be just as well if I exercised myself a little in -writing my own language, as the grammar hath it, "with elegance and -propriety." At half-past five, went to the theatre. The play was Romeo -and Juliet; the house not good. Mr. —— played Romeo.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I acted like a wretch, of course; how could I do otherwise? Oh, Juliet! -vision of the south! rose of the garden of the earth! was this the -glorious hymn that Shakspeare hallowed to your praise? was this the -mingled strain of Love's sweet going forth, and Death's dark victory, -over which my heart and soul have been poured out in wonder and -ecstasy?—How I do loathe the stage! these wretched, tawdry, glittering -rags, flung over the breathing forms of ideal loveliness; these -miserable, poor, and pitiful substitutes for the glories with which -poetry has invested her magnificent and fair creations—the glories with -which our imagination reflects them back again. What a mass of wretched -mumming mimicry acting is! Pasteboard and paint, for the thick breathing -orange groves of the south; green silk and oiled parchment, for the -solemn splendour of her noon of night; woolen platforms and canvass -curtains, for the solid marble balconies and rich dark draperies of -Juliet's sleeping-chamber, that shrine of love and beauty; rouge, for -the startled life-blood in the cheek of that young passionate woman; an -actress, a mimicker, a sham creature, me, in fact, or any other one, for -that loveliest and most wonderful conception, in which all that is true -in nature, and all that is exquisite in fancy, are moulded into a living -form. To <i>act</i> this! to <i>act</i> Romeo and Juliet! horror! horror! how I do -loathe my most impotent and unpoetical craft!<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>In the last scene of the play, I was so mad with the mode in which all -the preceding ones had been perpetrated, that, lying over Mr. ——'s -corpse, and fumbling for his dagger, which I could not find, I, Juliet, -thus apostrophised him,—Romeo being dead—"why, where <i>the</i> devil <i>is</i> -your dagger, Mr. ——!" What a disgusting travesty. On my return home, I -expressed my entire determination to my father to perform the farce of -Romeo and Juliet no more. Why, it's an absolute <i>shame</i> that one of -Shakspeare's plays should be thus turned into a mockery. I received a -note from young Mr. ——, accompanied by a very curious nosegay in -shells; a poor substitute for the breathing, fresh, rosy flowers he used -to furnish me with, when I was last here.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 6th.</i></h3> - -<p>The morning was beautifully bright and warm, like a May morning in -England. After breakfast, practised for two hours: while doing so, was -interrupted by Mr. ——, who came to bid us good-by. He was going on to -New York, and thence to England.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>He sat some time. When he was gone, and I had finished my practising, -came up to my own room. Was summoned thence to see my kinsman, who sat -some time with me, and whom I like of all things. He makes it out (for -he seems a great meddler in these matters) that we are originally -Italian people, pirates by name, Campo Bello; the same family as the -Scottish Campbells; the same family as the Norman Beauchamps: how I only -wish it were true! I have, and always have had, the greatest love and -veneration for old blood; I would rather by far have some barbarous -Saxon giant to my ancestor, than all the wealth of the earth to my -dower. I parted from my friend with much regret; he has won my heart -fairly. When he was gone, came up to my own room. The day was brilliant -and unclouded; and, as I looked into the serene blue sky, my spirit -longed for wings.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Dr. —— called this morning, and interested me by a long account of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> -Webster; in the course of which, however, he gave me, if possible, a -stronger distaste than I had before to the form of government in this -country, from various results which he enumerated as inevitably -belonging to it. Read a canto in Dante: it consoles me to read my -Italian, and forget for a time all that is.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I sat watching the glorious sunset, as it came redly streaming into my -room, touching every thing with glory, and shining through my hair upon -my book. It suggested to me a picture; and I wrote one for Mrs. ——, -who had been consulting me about a costume in which to sit for her -portrait. Dined at five: my father dined out. After dinner, sat writing -journal till ten, when he returned. The moon was shining soft and full, -and he asked me if I would take a walk. I bonneted and booted, and we -sallied forth to the Schuylkill. The moon withdrew herself behind a veil -of thin white clouds, but left a grey clear light over the earth, and -through the sky. We reached the Fair Mount bridge at about eleven. The -turnpike was fast, and every body asleep, so we climbed over the gate, -and very deliberately pursued our way through the strange dark-looking -covered bridge, where the glimmering lamps, at distant intervals, threw -the crossing beams and rafters into momentary brightness, that had a -strange effect contrasted with the surrounding gloom.<a name="FNanchor_75_75" id="FNanchor_75_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a> We reached the -other side, and, turning off from the road, began climbing the hill -opposite the breakwater. The road was muddy in the valley with heavy -rains; and unwilling to wade through the dirt, we clambered along a -paling for several yards, and so escaped the mire. My father steered for -the grassy knoll just opposite Fair Mount; and there, screened by a -thicket of young cedar bushes, with the river breaking over the broad -dam far below us, and the shadowy banks on the other side melting away -in the soft grey light, we sat down on a tree trunk. Here we remained -for upwards of a quarter of an hour without uttering a syllable; indeed, -we had not spoken three words since<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> we set out. My father was thinking, -I presume, of —— something; I, of the day of judgment—when these -thick forests, and wide strong waters, like a shrivelled scroll, are to -burn to ashes before the coming of God's justice. We were disturbed by a -large white spaniel dog, who, coming down from among the cedar bushes, -reminded me of the old witch stories, and Faust. We arose to depart, and -took our way towards the Market Street bridge, along the banks of the -river. The broken notes of a bugle-horn came at intervals across the -sleeping waters from the opposite shore, where shone reflected the few -lingering lights from the houses that had not yet shut up for the night. -The moon, faintly struggling through the clouds, now touched the dark -pyramids of the cedar trees that rose up into the grey sky, and threw -our shadows on the lonely path we were pursuing, now cast a pale gleam -through the rapid clouds that chased one another like dreams across the -sky. The air was soft and balmy as the night air of mid August. The -world was still; and, except our footfalls, as we trudged along, no -sound disturbed the universal repose. We did not reach home till -half-past twelve. As we walked down Market Street, through the long -ranges of casks, the only creatures stirring, except some melancholy -night-loving cat, my father said very calmly, "How I do wish I had a -gimlet."—"What for?"—"What fun it would be to pierce every one of -these barrels." For a gentleman of his years, this appeared to me rather -a juvenile prompting of Satan; and as I laughingly expostulated on the -wickedness of such a proceeding, he replied with much innocence, "I -don't think they'd ever suspect me of having done it;" and truly I don't -think they would. Came home, and to bed. That was a curious fancy of my -father's.</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="center">A PICTURE.</div></div> -<div class="stanza"><div>Through the half open'd casement stream'd the light</div> -<div>Of the departing sun. The golden haze</div> -<div>Of the red western sky fell warm and bright</div> -<div>Into that chamber large and lone: the blaze</div> -<div>Touch'd slantingly curtain and couch, and threw</div> -<div>A glory over many an antique gem,</div> -<div>Won from the entombed cities that once grew</div> -<div>At the volcano's foot. Mingled with them</div> -<div><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span>Stood crystal bowls, through which the broken ray</div> -<div>Fell like a shower of precious stones, and lay</div> -<div>Reflected upon marble; these were crown'd</div> -<div>With blushing flowers, fresh and glittering yet</div> -<div>With diamond rain-drops. On the crimson ground</div> -<div>A shining volume, clasp'd with gold and jet,</div> -<div>And broken petals of a passion-flower</div> -<div>Lay by the lady of this silent bower.</div> -<div>Her rippling hair fell from her pearly round</div> -<div>That strove to clasp its billowy curls: the light</div> -<div>Hung like a glory on their waves of gold.</div> -<div>Her velvet robe, in many a violet fold,</div> -<div>Like the dark pansy's downy leaf, was bound</div> -<div>With a gold zone, and clasp'd with jewels bright,</div> -<div>That glow'd and glanced as with a magic flame</div> -<div>Whene'er her measured breathing stirr'd her frame.</div> -<div>Upon her breast and shoulders lay a veil</div> -<div>Of curious needle-work, as pure and pale</div> -<div>As a fine web of ivory, wrought with care,</div> -<div>Through which her snowy skin show'd smooth and fair.</div> -<div>Upon the hand that propp'd her drooping head,</div> -<div>A precious emerald, like a fairy well,</div> -<div>Gleam'd with dark solemn lustre; a rich thread</div> -<div>Of rare round pearls—such as old legends tell</div> -<div>The Egyptian queen pledged to her Roman lord,</div> -<div>When in her cup a kingdom's price she pour'd,—</div> -<div>Circled each soft white arm. A painter well</div> -<div>Might have been glad to look upon her face,</div> -<div>For it was full of beauty, truth, and grace;</div> -<div>And from her lustrous eyes her spirit shone</div> -<div>Serene, and strong, and still, as from a throne.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<h3><i>Friday, 7th.</i></h3> - -<p>A break. Found —— in the breakfast-room. The morning was very -unpropitious; but I settled to ride at one, if it was tolerably fine -then. He remained pottering a long time: when he was gone, practised, -habited, went in, for a few minutes, to Mrs. ——. At one the horses -came;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> but mine was brought without a stirrup, so we had to wait, Lord -knows how long, till the blundering groom had ridden back for it. At -length we mounted. "Handsome is that handsome does," is verity; and, -therefore, pretty as was my steed, I wished its good looks and itself at -the devil, before I was halfway down Chestnut Street. It pranced, and -danced, and backed me once right upon the pavement. We took the Laurel -Hill road. The day was the perfection of gloom—the road six inches deep -in heavy mud. We walked the whole way out! my father got the cramp, and -lost his temper. At Laurel Hill we dismounted, and walked down to the -river side. How melancholy it all looked! the turbid rhubarby water, the -skeleton woods, the grey sky, and far winding away of the dark rocky -shores; yet it was fine even in this gloom, and wonderfully still. The -clouds did not move,—the water had not the faintest ripple,—the trees -did not stir a branch; the most perfect and profound trance seemed to -have fallen upon every thing. —— and I scrambled down the rocks -towards the water, expatiating on the capabilities of this place, which -was once a country-seat, and with very little expense might be made a -very enchanting as well as a very comfortable residence; always -excepting, of course, the chance of fever and ague during the summer -months, when the whole of the banks of the Schuylkill, high and rocky as -they are, are considered so unhealthy, that the inhabitants are obliged -to leave their houses until the winter season, when the country -naturally loses half its attractions. At half-past three, we mounted, -and, crossing the river, returned home by a much better road. My horse, -however, was decidedly a brute,—pulled my arms to pieces, cantered with -the wrong leg foremost, trotted in a sort of scuttling fashion, that -rendered it utterly impossible to rise in the stirrup, and, instead of -walking, jogged the breath out of my body. I was fairly done up when we -reached home. Dressed, and dined; —— dined with us. After dinner, went -and sat with Mrs. ——. So it seems Carolina is in a state of -convulsion. Reports have arrived that the Nullifiers and Unionists have -had a fight in Charleston, and that lives have been lost. "Bide a wee," -as the Scotchman says; we talk a good deal on the other side the water -of matters that are far enough off; but as for America, the problem is -not yet solved—and this very crisis (a more important one than has yet -occurred in the political existence of this country) is threatening to -slacken the bonds of brotherhood between the states, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> shake the -Union to its centre. The interests of the northern states are totally -different from, and in some respects opposite to, those of the southern ones.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The tariff question is the point in debate; and the Carolinians have, it -seems, threatened to secede from the Union in consequence of the policy -pursued with regard to that. I was horrified at Dr. ——'s account of -the state of the negroes in the south. To teach a slave to read or write -is to incur a penalty either of fine or imprisonment. They form the -larger proportion of the population, by far; and so great is the dread -of insurrection on the part of the white inhabitants, that they are kept -in the most brutish ignorance, and too often treated with the most -brutal barbarity, in order to insure their subjection. Oh! what a -breaking asunder of old manacles there will be, some of these fine days; -what a fearful rising of the black flood; what a sweeping away, as by a -torrent, of oppressions and tyrannies; what a fierce and horrible -retaliation and revenge for wrong so long endured—so wickedly -inflicted. When I came in to tea, at half-past eight, found Dr. —— -there.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>When he was gone, sang a song or two, like a crow in the quinsy.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 12th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, went to rehearsal; after rehearsal, went to ——'s. It -poured with rain. Came home; put out things for the theatre; practised -for an hour; finished letter to ——; wrote journal; dined at three. -After dinner, went and sat with Mrs. ——. Sang to her all my old Scotch -ballads; read the first act of the Hunchback to her. At half-past five, -went to the theatre. Play, King John; house good: I played horribly. My -voice, too, was tired with my exertions, and cracked most awfully in the -midst of "thunder," which was rather bad.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I had finished early, and came home in my dress in order to show it to -Mrs. ——. She was just gone to bed, but admitted me.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Sat talking to her until my father came home. So "Old Hickory" means to -lick the refractory southerns: why they are coming to a civil war! -However, the grumblers haven't the means of fighting without -emancipating and arming their slaves. That they will not and dare not -do; the consequence will be, I suppose, that they will swallow the -affront, and submit.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 13th.</i></h3> - -<p>While dressing, had the pleasure of witnessing from my window a -satisfactory sample of the innate benevolence, gentleness, and humanity -of our nature: a child of about five years old, dragging a cat by a -string tied to its throat round and round a yard, till the poor beast -ceased to use its paws, and suffered itself to be trailed along the -ground, after which the little fiend set his feet upon it, and stamped -and kicked it most brutally. The blood came into my face; and, though -almost too far for hearing, I threw up the sash, and at the top of my -voice apostrophised the little wretch with "Hollo there! wicked, naughty -boy!" He seemed much puzzled to discover whence this appeal proceeded, -but not at all at a loss to apply it; for, after looking about with a -very conscience-stricken visage, he rushed into the house, dragging his -victim with him. I came down, fairly sick, to breakfast. After -despatching it, I put on my bonnet and walked round to the house where -this scene had taken place. I enquired for the child, describing his -appearance, and he was presently brought to me; when I sat down at the -foot of the stairs in the hall, and spent some time in expatiating on -the enormity of such proceedings to the little ruffian, who, it seems, -has frequently been corrected for similar ferocities before. I fear my -preachment will not avail much. Came home, put room to rights, practised -for an hour; got ready, and dawdled about most dreadfully, waiting for -D——, who had gone out with my father. At half-past twelve, set off -with her to the riding-school. It was full of women in long calico -skirts, and gay bonnets with flaunting feathers, riding like wretches; -some cantering, some trotting, some walking—crossing one another, -passing one another in a way that would have filled the soul of Fossard -with grief and amazement. I put on a skirt and my riding-cap, and -mounted a rough, rugged, besweated<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> white-brown beast, that looked like -an old trunk more than any thing else, its coat standing literally on -end, like "quills upon the fretful porcupine," with heat and ill -condition. 'Tis vain attempting to ride like a Christian on these -heathen horses, which are neither broken, bitted, nor bridled properly; -and poor dumb <i>creturs</i> have no more idea of what a horse ought to be, -or how a horse ought to behave, than so many cows. My hair, presently, -with the damp and the shaking, became perfectly straight. As I raised my -head, after putting it up under my cap, I beheld —— earnestly -discoursing to D——. I asked for Tuesday's charger; and the school -having by degrees got empty, I managed to become a little better -acquainted with its ways and means. 'Tis a pretty little creature, but -'tis not half broken, is horribly ill ridden, and will never be good for -any thing—what a pity! At two o'clock I dismounted: —— walked home -with us. Went in to see Mrs. ——: she seemed a good deal better, I -thought; sat some time with her. Mr. —— has sent me back my book of -manuscript music: played and sang half through it. Came to my room; -tried on dresses for Lady Macbeth, and the Wonder, and dressed for -dinner. My father dined out. After dinner, went in to see Mrs. ——. Sat -some time with her mother, her chicks, and her young doctor of a cousin, -who is quite a civilised mortal. Poor Mrs. —— was too ill to see me. -Came to the drawing-room, wrote journal, played and sang till tea-time. -After tea, read the history of Knickerbocker, whereat I was like to have -died, through the greate merrimente its rare and excellente pleasantries -did cause in me, insomuche that I lay on the sofa screaming, very much -like one lunaticke.</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 14th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, put out things for the theatre. Practised for an hour; -read and marked the Comedy of Errors, which is really great fun: perhaps -not funnier than Amphytrion, but the subject is more agreeable a good -deal. Read a canto in Dante; got ready for the riding-school; found —— -and Mr. —— in the drawing-room. As we were going out, the gentlemen -did not remain long. When they were gone, D—— and I set off for the -riding-school. We were hardly there before —— made his appearance: I -wonder what he'll do for an <i>interest</i>, by the by, when we are gone.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span></p><p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The school was quite empty, so we had it all to ourselves. D—— mounted -up upon a detestable shambling brute, that wouldn't go <i>no how</i>. I had a -fancy for making my little fiery charger leap over the bar, and made Mr. -—— put it down for me. The beast had no idea of such saltatory -proceedings, and jerked himself over it three times most abominably. The -fourth time I pushed him at it, he jumped, and I jumped too, out of the -saddle on to my feet, having lighted down very comfortably at the -horse's head with the reins in my hand, neither hurt nor frightened. -This is the first time a horse ever had me off. I got on again, but -declined leaping any more. At a quarter to three we returned home. -—— walked with us. At the corner of Sansom Street, met young ——. -Heaven bless —— from a challenge! Came home; dined: after dinner, went -in and sat with Mrs. —— till coffee-time. Showed her my dresses, and -read her a scene or two of the Hunchback. Went to the theatre at -half-past five. Play, the Hunchback—the house was literally crammed. I -played very well, except being out in my town scene—an unwonted -occurrence with me. After the play, came home, supped, and read the -Wonder, which I thought wondrous dull.</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 15th.</i></h3> - -<p>If I were to write a history of Philadelphia, according to the profound -spirit of investigation for which modern tourists are remarkable, I -should say that it was a peculiarity belonging to its climate, that -Saturday is invariably a wet day. At twelve, went to rehearsal, after -putting out things for the theatre. Had a long talk with Mr. —— about -Pasta, the divine,—the only reality that ever I beheld that was as -fair, as grand, as glorious as an imaginary being. Shall I ever forget -that woman in Medea? I am thankful I have seen her. After rehearsal, -called at Mr. ——'s. Saw and carried off his head of me in Juliet. -Certainly the resemblance between myself and Mrs. Siddons must be very -strong; for this painting might almost have been taken for a copy of -Harlowe's sketch of my aunt in Lady Macbeth: 'tis very strange and -unaccountable. Came home; wrote journal: went and sat with Mrs. —— -till dinner-time. After dinner, went and sat with her again till -coffee-time. Was introduced to Dr. ——, whom I liked very much.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Showed her my dress and my bracelets. Had a long discussion about the -precedence of one lady before another among the nobility of European -courts, whereat her republican pride seemed highly offended. If Clay -<i>did</i>, as Dr. —— describes, pass before titled men, at a dinner in -England, with his hands in his breeches' pockets, it only follows thence -that he was really ill bred, and would be thought vulgar if he did it -unwittingly, and absurd if he did it intentionally. Went to the theatre -at half-past five. The house was wonderful, considering the weather: the -play was Fazio. I played pretty well: my dress was <i>splendid</i>.</p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 16th.</i></h3> - -<p>Had only time to swallow a mouthful of breakfast, and off to church; -where I heard about as thorough a cock and bull sermon as ever I hope to -be edified withal. What shameful nonsense the man talked! and all the -time pretending to tell us what God had done, what he was doing, and -what he intended to do next, as if he went up into heaven and saw what -was going on there, every five minutes. Came home; sat with Mrs. —— -for a long time: I am very fond of her.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Came to my own room, and studied Violante till dinner-time. How tiresome -this pointless prose is to batter into one's head. After dinner, went -and sat with Mrs. —— till near tea-time, when I came to the -drawing-room. Presently, Mr. —— and Mr. —— called, also Dr. ——. I -went to my father's room to apprise him of this invasion of the Goths, -and found him very unwell, and labouring under a severe cold. He would -not come down; so D—— and I had to entertain these interesting youths -what fashion we best might. She gave them tea, and I gave them music, -till half-past ten, when they departed.</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 17th.</i></h3> - -<p>It poured with rain like the very mischief: a sort of continual gushing -down from the clouds, combining all the vehemence of a thunder shower -with all the pertinacity of one of our own November -drizzles—delightful! Went to rehearse Macbeth. Had a delightful palaver -with Mr. ——,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> who knows all the music that ever was writ, and all the -singers that ever sang, and worships Pasta as I do. Came home; put out -things for the theatre: dined at three. After dinner, went and sat with -Mrs. —— till coffee-time. At half-past five, went to the theatre. In -spite of the rain, the house was very full; and in all my life I never -saw so large an assembly of people so perfectly and breathlessly still -as they were during several of our scenes. I played like a very clever -girl as I am; but it was about as much like Lady Macbeth as the Great -Mogul. My father laboured his part too much.</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 18th.</i></h3> - -<p>Received letters; one from dear ——, and one from ——. They did as -letters from England always do by me,—threw me into a perfect nervous -fever.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>After breakfast, went to rehearse the Wonder. Called in on my way on Mr. -——, who is painting a portrait of my father. Saw one or two lovely -women's pictures. I wish he would go to England: I think it would answer -his purpose very well. At two, went to the riding-school: rode till -half-past three. The day was bitter cold, with a piercing wicked wind -riding through the grey sky. D—— and I walked to pay sundry calls. Met -——, whom we had not seen for two or three days—a most unusual -circumstance. He walked home with us. D—— and I dined <i>tête-à-tête</i>. -On returning home, I found a most lovely nosegay of real, delicious, -fragrant flowers. Sweet crimson buds of the faint-breathing monthly -rose; bright vivid dark green myrtle; the honey Daphne Odora, with its -clusters of pinky-white blossoms; and the delicate bells of the tall -white jasmine,—all sweet, and living, and fresh, as at midsummer: I was -blissful! After dinner, I went in to Mrs. ——. Came back to the -drawing-room. ——, who had taken the hint about our being alone in the -evening, came in. I began making him sing, and taught him the Leaf and -the Fountain: his voice sounded like when we were nearer home.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Presently Mr. —— was announced. He was the author of the flowers.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 19th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, —— called.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Went to rehearsal,—afterwards, to the riding-school. The school was -quite empty, and I alone. The boy brought me my horse, and I mounted by -means of a chair. As I was cantering along, amusing myself with -cogitations various, —— came in. He stayed the whole time I rode. I -settled with him about riding to-morrow, and came home to dinner. After -dinner, went in to see Mrs. ——: Dr. —— was there, who is a -remarkably nice man. She is a very delightful person, with a great deal -of intellect, and a wonderful quantity of fortitude and piety, and a -total absence of knowledge of the world, except through books.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Her children enchant me, and her care of them enchants me too. She is an -excellent person, with a heart overflowing with the very best affections -our nature is capable of, fulfilled, I think, to the uttermost.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Stayed with her till time to go to the theatre. The house was very full: -the play was the Wonder—my first time of acting Violante. My dress was -not finished till the very last moment,—and then, oh, horror! was so -small that I could not get into it. It had to be pinned upon me; and -thus bebundled, with the dread of cracking my bodice from top to bottom -every time I moved, and the utter impossibility of drawing my breath, -from the narrow dimensions into which it squeezed me, I went on to play -a new part. The consequence was that I acted infamously, and for the -first time in my life was horribly imperfect—out myself and putting -every body else out. Between every scene my unlucky gown had to be -pinned together; and in the laughing scene, it took the hint from my -admirable performance, and facetiously grinned in an ecstasy of -amusement till it was fairly open behind, displaying, I suppose, the -lacing of my stays, like so many teeth, to the admiring gaze of the -audience; for, as I was perfectly ignorant of the circumstance, with my -usual easy <i>nonchalance</i>, I persisted in turning my back to the folk, -in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> spite of all my father's pulls and pushes, which, as I did not -comprehend, I did not by any means second either. —— was at the play, -also Dr. ——, also Henry Clay, who was received with cheers and -plaudits manifold. Came home in my dress, and went in to show it to Mrs. -—— and her mother, who were both in bed, but marvellously edified by -my appearance.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 20th.</i></h3> - -<p>The day was beautifully brilliant, clear, and cold—winter, but winter -in dazzling array of sunshine and crystal; blue skies, with light -feathery streaks of white clouds running through them; dry, crisp, hard -roads, with the delicate rime tipping all the ruts with sparkling -jewellery; and the waters fresh, and bright, and curling under the keen -breath of the arrow-like wind. After breakfast, —— called. Walked out -with him to get a cap and whip for D——. The latter he insisted on -making her a present of, and a very pretty one indeed it was, with a -delicate ivory handle, and a charming persuading lash. Went in for a -short time to Mrs. ——, who entertained herself with letting all my -hair down about my ears, and pulling it all manner of ways. At twelve -habited, and helped to equip dear D——, who really looked exceedingly -nice in her jockey habiliments. Went to the school, where we found —— -waiting for us. Mounted and set forth. We rode out to Laurel Hill. The -road was not very good, but no mud; and the warm gleesome sunlight fell -mellowly over the lovely undulations of the land, with their patches of -green cedar trees, and threadbare cloak of leafless woods, through which -the little birds were careering merrily, as the reviving sunshine came -glowingly down upon the world, like a warm blessing. Passed that bright -youth, Mr. ——, on the road, riding very like an ass on horseback. When -we reached Laurel Hill, we dismounted, tied up the horses, slacked their -girths, and walked first up to that interesting wooden monument, where I -inscribed my initials on our first ride thither. Afterwards, —— and I -scrambled down the rocks to the river side, which D—— declined doing, -<i>'cause vy?</i>—she'd have had to climb up again. The water was like a -broad dazzling river of light, and had a beautiful effect, winding away -in brightness that the eye could scarce endure, between its banks, -which, contrasted by the sunny stream, and blue transparent sky, -appeared perfectly black. As I bent over a fine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> <i>bluff</i> (as they here -call any mass of rock standing isolated), I espied below me a natural -rocky arch, overhanging the river, all glittering with pure long diamond -icicles. Thither —— convoyed me, and broke off one of these wintry -gems for me. It measured about two feet long, and was as thick at the -root as my wrist. I never saw any thing so beautiful as these pendant -adornments of the silver-fingered ice god. Toiled up to the house again, -where, after brushing our habits, we remounted our chargers, and came -home. The river was most beautiful towards the bridge that they are -building: the unfinished piers of which have a very pretty effect, -almost resembling their very opposite, a ruin. The thin pale vapour of -the steam-engine, employed in some of the works, rising from the blue -water, and rolling its graceful waves far along the dark rocky shore, -had a lovely fairy-like look, which even drew forth the admiration of -——, who, from sundry expressions which have occasionally fallen from -him, I suspect to be rather well endowed with ideality. Reached home at -half-past four. My father dined out. It was past ——'s dinner-time; so -we invited him to stay and dine with us. After dinner, we fell somehow -or another into a profound theological discussion; —— suddenly -proposing for my solution the mysterious doctrine of the inherent sin of -our nature, and its accompanying doom, death,—inherited from one man's -sin, and one man's punishment. I am not fond of discoursing upon these -subjects. 'Tis long since I have arrived at the conviction that the less -we suffer our thoughts to dwell upon what is vague and mysterious in our -most mysterious faith, and the more we confine our attention and our -efforts to that part of it which is practical and clear as the noon-day, -the better it will be for our minds here, and our souls hereafter. -Surely they are not wise who seek to penetrate the unfathomed counsels -of God, whilst their own natures, moral, mental, nay, even physical, -have depths beyond the sounding of their plummet line. —— spoke in -perfect sincerity and simplicity of the difficulty he found in believing -that which was so "hard a saying;" and, as there was not the slightest -particle of levity or ridicule in his manner, I spoke as earnestly as I -felt and always feel upon this subject,—very strenuously advising him -not to strain his comprehension upon matters which baffle human -endeavour, which, after all our wanderings and weary explorings, still -lead us back to the wide boundless waste of uncertainty; concluding by -exhorting him to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> read his Bible, say his prayers, and go to church if -he could,—or, if he could not, at all events to be as good as he could. -While we were at tea, young —— and Dr. —— came in. They put me down -to the piano, and I continued to sing until past eleven o'clock, when, -somebody looking at a watch, there was a universal exclamation of -surprise, the piano was shut down, the candles put out, the gentlemen -vanished, and I came to bed.</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="center">WINTER.</div></div> -<div class="stanza"><div>I saw him on his throne, far in the north,</div> -<div>Him ye call Winter, picturing him ever</div> -<div>An aged man, whose frame, with palsied shiver,</div> -<div>Bends o'er the fiery element, his foe.</div> -<div>But him I saw was a young god, whose brow</div> -<div>Was crown'd with jagged icicles, and forth</div> -<div>From his keen spirit-like eyes there shone a light,</div> -<div>Broad, glaring, and intensely cold and bright.</div> -<div>His breath, like sharp-edged arrows, pierced the air;</div> -<div>The naked earth crouch'd shuddering at his feet;</div> -<div>His finger on all murmuring waters sweet</div> -<div>Lay icily,—motion nor sound was there;</div> -<div>Nature seem'd frozen—dead; and still and slow</div> -<div>A winding-sheet fell o'er her features fair,</div> -<div>Flaky and white, from his wide wings of snow.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>I am sorry to find that I must skip Friday and Saturday, thereby -omitting an account of an interesting ball at Mrs. ——'s, where the -floors were duly chalked, the music very good, the women very lovely, -and where I fell in again with my dear kinsman, whom I love devotedly, -and whom I jumped half across a quadrille to greet with extended hands, -which must greatly have edified the whole assembly. Likewise I must skip -a most interesting account of a second polemical conversation with ——; -in the course of which, to my great amazement, he managed to introduce a -most vehement abuse of Dr. ——, whose admiration of my singing appears -to have troubled him fully as much as the doctrine of original -sin,—together with many other things worthy of note, which shall now -die in oblivion, and the times return unenlightened to their graves.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 23d.</i></h3> - -<p>Was only dressed in time to swallow two mouthfuls of breakfast, and get -ready for church. —— came to know at what time we would ride, and -walked with us to the church door.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>After church, came home,—habited; went and sat with Mrs. —— till -half-past one. The villanous servants did not think fit to announce the -horses till they had been at the door full half an hour, so that when we -started it was near two o'clock. D—— seemed quite at her ease upon her -gangling charger, and I had gotten up upon Mr. ——'s big horse, to see -what I could make of him. The day was beautifully bright and clear, with -a warm blessed sunshine causing the wintry world to smile. We had -proceeded more than halfway to Laurel Hill without event, when, driving -my heavy-shouldered brute at a bank, instead of lifting up his feet, he -thought fit to stumble, fall, and fling me very comfortably off upon the -mound. I sprang up neither hurt nor frightened, shook my habit, -tightened my girths, and mounted again; when we set off, much refreshed -by this little incident, which occasioned a world of mirth and many -saucy speeches from my companions to me. At Laurel Hill the master of -the house came bowing forth with the utmost courteousness to meet me, -expressing his profound sense of the honour I did him in deigning to -inhale the air around his abode, and his unspeakable anguish at having -been absent when I had so far condescended before. He was a -foreigner,—French or Italian, or <i>such like</i>,—which accounts for his -civility. Had the horses taken to the stable, and their girths -slackened. D—— kept the heights, and —— and I ran, slipped, slid, -and scrambled down to the water's edge. The river was frozen over, not, -however, strongly enough to bear much, and every jutting rock was hung -with pure glittering icicles that shone like jewels in the bright -sunshine. Far down the river all was still and lonely, and bright, yet -wintry-looking. The flow of the water and its plashing music were still; -there was no breath of wind stirring the leafless boughs; the sunlight -came down, warm and dazzling upon the silent sparkling world, all clad -in its shimmering ice robe: the air was transparent and clear, and the -whole scene was perfectly lovely. Taming to re-ascend<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> the rocks, I -called aloud to D——, and the distinctest loudest echo answered me. So -perfect was the reflection of the sound, that at first I thought some -one was mocking me. I ran up a scale as loud, and high, and rapid as I -could; and, from among the sunny fields, a voice repeated the threaded -notes as clearly, as rapidly, only more softly, with a distinctness that -was startling. I never heard an echo that repeated so much of what was -sung or said. I stood in perfect enchantment, exercising my voice, and -provoking the hidden voice of the air, who answered me with a far-off -tone, that seemed as though the mocking spirit fled along the hill tops, -repeating my notes with a sweet gleeful tone that filled me with -delight. Oh, what must savages think an echo is? How many many lovely -and wild imaginations are suggested by that which natural philosophers -analyse into mere conformations of earth and undulations of air! At -length we joined D——, and walked to the house, where presently -appeared the master of the mansion, with cakes, wine, cordial, -preserves, or, as Comus hath it, "a table covered with all manner of -deliciousness." I was at first a little puzzled by the epithet <i>cordial</i> -applied to three goodly-looking <i>decanters</i> full of rosy and golden -liquor, and which —— informed me is the invariable refreshment -presented to visiters of both sexes who ride or drive up to Laurel Hill. -To satisfy my curiosity, I put my lips to some of it, which proved to be -no other than liqueur, an indifferent sort of noyau—that which soberest -folks in England take but a thimble-full of after dinner, by way of -<i>chasse-café</i>, and drunkenest folk would be ashamed to touch in the -morning. It seems that it is otherwise here; and, indeed, generally -speaking, Americans swallow much more of all sorts of spirituous -nauseousness than we do in our country. The men take brandy, in a way -that would astound people of any respectability in England, and in this, -as well as many other ways, contribute to assist the enervating effects -of their climate.<a name="FNanchor_76_76" id="FNanchor_76_76"></a><a href="#Footnote_76_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a> Our host waited himself most attentively<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> upon us, -and refused all species of remuneration save thanks, which, indeed, he -said he owed me for so far honouring him as to stuff his cakes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> and -drink his wine. We mounted again, being refreshed, and, taking leave of -this pearl of innkeepers, continued our ride along the banks of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> the -Schuylkill, until we came to Manayunk, a manufacturing place, where they -create cottons, and which has the additional advantage of being most -lovelily situated upon the banks of the river, backed by rocky heights, -where the cedar bushes, with their rich dark tufts, and the fine bold -masses of grey granite, together with a hundred little water-courses now -hanging from every ridge they used to flow over in brilliant ice -pendants, had a most beautiful effect. It was getting late, however, and -we pushed on to the bridge; but, lo! when we reached it, it was under -repair and impassable. What was to be done? the sun had withdrawn his -warm rays from the heavens,—the lower earth was shadowy and dark,—a -rich orange light hung over the brow of the ridge of hills on the -opposite side of the river, whose current, rapid and strong, flowed -darkly between beautiful slabs of granite which lay in its path, and -round which the water hurried angrily. What was to be done? To turn back -was disheartening,—to go on for the chance of a bridge was also to run -the chance of being utterly benighted in paths we knew nothing of, and -on horses which were any thing but safe. However, my evident inclination -to the latter course prevailed with my companions. We crossed a narrow -bridge, and pursued a sort of tow-path between the canal and the river. -The glimmering daylight was fading fast from the sky, and the opposite -shores of the river were losing their distinctness of outline, when, -from between two beautiful bold masses of rock which overhung its -entrance, the wooden bridge appeared. I should like to have lingered in -this spot till nightfall, but this was by no means the bargain either -with my fellow-travellers or my horse. So on we went over the bridge, -and, turning to the left, pursued the river's side,—now close down to -its gushing fretful waters, hurrying from between the rocky impediments -of their path,—now high above its course, in the midst of woods growing -to the very edge of the precipitous bank, with rocky ridges rising again -above us, crowned with the black-looking tufts of the cedar, jagged with -icicles, and from which descended, at every ten yards, a trickling rill, -which, smoothed over by the glassy ice, rendered our horses' footing, -particularly in the twilight, very insecure. We were <i>in for it</i>; and -when that is the case, 'tis vain making lamentations or piteous -retrospections: I therefore pushed on, with as much care as I could of -Mr. ——'s tumble-down charger, whose headlong motion kept me in -agonies, leaving —— to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> take care of dear D——, whose bones I feared -would ach for this adventure most bitterly. The road was perfectly -beautiful. Broad masses of shadowy clouds hung in the sky, and were -reflected in the waters, together with the pale delicate grey of -evening, and the last amber tinge of sunset. We did not reach -Philadelphia till it was perfectly dark. To add to my consternation, -too, when we asked —— to dine with us, he said that he had an -engagement, for which I began to fear this ill-starred ride would have -kept him too late.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I came up to my own room, changed my clothes, and went in to see Mrs. -——.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>She was completely overpowered with laudanum. Her head was declined upon -a chair.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>She looked very lovely, with her beautiful head bowed, and her dark -eyelashes lying on her wan cheeks. Her features were contracted with -suffering. I sat watching her with much heartfelt sadness and interest. -I was summoned away, however, to see some gentlemen who were in the -drawing-room, whither I adjourned, and where I found Mr. —— and Dr. -——. I was stupid and sleepy, and the gentlemen had the charity not to -keep me up, or make me sing.</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 24th, Christmas-eve.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, put out clothes for to-night. When I came down, found -—— in the drawing-room with my father: paid him his bill, and pottered -an immensity. Went to rehearsal,—afterwards paid all manner of cards -with poor dear D——, who puffed and panted through the streets in order -not to freeze me, which, however, she did not escape.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>After dinner, went and sat with my poor invalid, whom, in spite of her -republicanism, I am greatly inclined to like and admire. Remained with -her till coffee-time. Went to the theatre: the play was the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> Merchant of -Venice,—my favourite part, Portia. The house was very full: I played -so-soish.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 25th, Christmas-day.</i></h3> - -<p>I wish you a merry Christmas, poor child! away from home and friends. -Truly, the curse of the old Scriptures has come upon me; my lovers and -my acquaintance are far off from me. After breakfast, practised for and -hour; went and saw Mrs. ——; drove out shopping; saw —— walking with -my father. Came home and wrote journal: went out with D——; bought a -rocking-horse for Mrs. ——'s chicks, whose merry voices I shall miss -most horribly by and by. Dragged it in to them in the midst of their -dinner. Dined at three. After dinner, went and sat with her till -coffee-time. When I came into the drawing-room, found a beautiful -work-box sent me by that very youthful admirer of mine, Mr. ——. I was -a little annoyed at this, but still more so at my father's desiring me -to return it to him, which I know will be a terrible mortification to -him. Went to the theatre: the house was crammed with men, and very -noisy,—a Christmas audience. Play, Macbeth: I only played so-so. Oh, -me! these marks in the stream of time, over which it breaks as over a -dam, drawing our attention, which without them would even less often -note its rapid, rapid current! They do but become halting-posts for our -souls, round which gather the memories of days and hours escaped and -gone from us for ever.<a name="FNanchor_77_77" id="FNanchor_77_77"></a><a href="#Footnote_77_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 26th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, put out things for theatre. When I came down to the -drawing-room, I found a middle-aged gentleman of very respectable -appearance sitting with my father. He rose on my coming in, and, after -bowing to me, continued his discourse to my father thus:—"Yes, sir, -yes; you will find as I tell you, sir, the winter is our profitable -theatrical season, sir; so that if any thing should take you to England, -you can return again at the beginning of next fall." I modestly withdrew -to another end of the room, supposing they were engaged upon business. -But my curiosity was presently attracted by the continuation of his -discourse. "And recollect, sir, and this lady, your daughter, too, if -you please, that what I have said must not on any account be repeated -out of this room. I am myself going immediately to England, and from -thence direct to <i>Jerusalem</i>!" I stared. "There, sir, is my real name, -——: the card I sent up to you is not my real name. You see, sir, I am -an Irishman, that is to say, in fact, I am<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> really a Jew. <i>I am one of -those of the tribe of Ephraim who refused to cross the Red Sea: we were -not to be humbugged by that damned fellow, Moses,—no, sir, we were -not!</i>" Here my heart jumped into my throat, and my eyes nearly out of my -head with fright and amazement. "Well," continued the poor madman, "I -suppose I may deliver this to the young lady herself;" giving me a small -parcel, which I took from him as if I thought it would explode and blow -me up. "And now, sir, farewell. Remember remember, my words,—in three -years, perhaps, but <i>certainly</i> in ten, <i>He</i> that will come <i>will come</i>, -and it's all up with the world, and the children of men!" This most -awful announcement was accompanied with a snap of his fingers, and a -demi-pirouette. He was then rushing out of the room, leaving his cloak -behind him. My father called him back to give it him. He bundled himself -into it, exclaimed, "God bless you both! God bless you both!—remember, -what I have said requires the profoundest secrecy, as you perceive," and -darted out of the room, leaving my father and myself with eyes and mouth -wide open, gaping in speechless astonishment.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> At last I bethought me of -opening the little packet the madman had left me. It was a small box, on -the cover of which was written, To Miss Kemble, with the compliments of -St. George. I then recollected, that some time past I had received some -verses, in which love and religion were very crazily blended, signed St. -George. But, as I am abundantly furnished with epistles of this sort, I -had flung them aside, merely concluding the writer to be gone a short -way from his wits. The box contained a most beautiful and curious -ornament, something like a Sévigné, highly wrought in gold and enamel, -and evidently very costly. I was more confounded than ever, and did not -recover from my amazement and fright for a long time. I went in to Mrs. -—— to tell her the event. Thence we began talking about young ——'s -box; and, upon her advice, I again spoke to my father and obtained his -leave not to send it back; so I indited him a thankful epistle. -Practised for a short time, and then went to the riding-school. It was -quite empty: I put on my cap and skirt, and was sitting, thinking of -many things, in the little dressing-room, when I heard the school-door -open, and Mr. —— walked straight up to me.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Dr. —— called to-day. I was quite glad to see him: he gave me all the -New York news, and brought with him a gentleman, a friend of his, who -nearly made me sick by very deliberately spitting upon the carpet. Mercy -on me! I thought I should have jumped off my chair, I was so disgusted. -Mr. ——, too, does this constantly.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>After dinner, went and sat with Mrs. ——; was called away to see Mr. -——, whom I thanked for his present.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Went to the theatre at half-past five. The house was very fair, -considering the weather, which was very foul. Play, School for Scandal. -They none of them knew their parts, or remembered their -business—delightful people, indeed! I played only so-so. —— supped -with us. He is a very gentlemanly nice person, and I am told he is -extremely amiable.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>He told me sundry steam-boat stories that made my blood curdle; such as, -a public brush, a public comb, and a public <i>tooth-brush</i>. Also, of a -gentleman who was using his own tooth-brush,—a man who was standing -near him said, "I'll trouble you for that article when you've done with -it." When he had done with it, the gentleman presented it to him, and on -receiving it again, immediately threw it into the river, to the infinite -amazement of the borrower, who only exclaimed, "Well, however, you're a -queer fellow."<a name="FNanchor_78_78" id="FNanchor_78_78"></a><a href="#Footnote_78_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a></p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 27th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, went to rehearsal. Katharine and Petruchio. After -rehearsal, went to the riding-school. It was quite empty, except of Mr. -——, and Mr. ——.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Came home: found a letter to me from that strange madman. On opening it, -it proved a mere envelope, containing a visiting-card with the name St. -George upon it. After dinner, wrote journal; went and sat with Mrs. —— -till coffee-time. I have had a most dreadful side-ach all day.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>At half-past five, went to the theatre. Play, Much Ado about Nothing; -farce, Katharine and Petruchio.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>At the end I was so tired, and so overcome with the side-ach, that I lay -down on the floor perfectly done up.</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 28th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, —— called. Settled to ride, if possible, to-morrow. I -would give the world for a good shaking. I'm dying of the blue devils: I -have no power to rouse myself.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>When —— was gone, sat down to practise. Tried Mrs. Hemans's Messenger -Bird, but the words were too solemn and too sad: I sobbed instead of -singing, and was a little relieved. Went in to see Mrs. ——. She seemed -better; she was <i>en toilette</i>, in a delicate white wrapper, with her -fine hair twisted up round her classical head. She is a beautiful -person; she is better—an amiable, a sensible, and a pious one; I am -very deeply interested by her; I like her extremely. At half-past one, -went to the riding-school. I met there a daughter of old Lady ——'s, -who introduced herself to me, and asked leave to stay and see me ride, -which leave I gave her. The bay pony is, however, fairly ruined. A -little wretch not twelve years old had just been riding it: it had -fallen from all its paces, and went so lame that I gave up riding, and -sat disconsolately enough in the little dressing-closet, looking through -a window six inches square, at the blessed mild blue heavens, and -longing for wings, till my soul was like to faint.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>After dinner, wrote journal. Went in and sat with Mrs. ——. By the by, -that worthy youth, Mr. ——, dined with us. I got rid of some of my -vapours by sundry hearty laughs at him. I am sorry to leave Philadelphia -on Mrs. ——'s account. I am growing to her. Oh, Lord! how soon, how -soon we do this!—how we do cling to every thing in spite of the -pitiless wrenches of time and chance! Her dear babies are delightful to -me; their laughing voices have power to excite and make me happy,—and -when they come dancing to meet me, my heart warms very fondly towards -them.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>She amuses me much by her intense anxiety that I should be married. -First, she wishes —— would propose to me; then she thinks Mr. ——'s -estates in Cuba would be highly acceptable; in short, my single -blessedness seems greatly to annoy her, and I believe she attributes -every thing evil in life to that same. She seemed surprised, and a -little shocked, when I said I would accept death most thankfully in -preference to the happiest lot in life,—and so I would—I would. Yet -death——. 'Tis<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> strange, that Messenger Bird threw more than a passing -gloom over me. If the dead do indeed behold those whom they have loved, -with loving eyes and fond remembrance, do not the sorrows, the -weariness, the toiling, the despairing of those dear ones rise even into -the abodes of peace, and wring the souls of those who thence look down -upon the earth, and see the woe and anguish suffered here? Or, if they -do not feel,—if, freed from this mortal coil, they forget all they have -suffered, all that we yet endure, oh! then what fourfold trash is human -love! what vain and miserable straws are all the deep, the dear, the -grasping affections twined in our hearts' fibres,—mingled with our -blood! How poor are all things,—how beggarly is life! Oh! to think that -while we yet are bowed in agony, and mourning over the dead,—while our -bereaved hearts are aching, and our straining eyes looking to that -heaven, beyond which we think they yet may hear our cries, they yet may -see our anguish, the dead, the loved, the mourned, nor see, nor hear; or -if they do, look down with cold and careless gaze upon the love that -lifts our very souls in desperate yearning towards them. Yet one of the -two must surely be: either the other life is like this, a life of pain, -though not like this, perhaps, a life of selfishness; or this earth, and -time, and all they hold, are a more hollow mockery than even I sometimes -dream they are. I will not think any more of it. We went to the theatre -at half-past five. Play, Hunchback; after it, Katharine and Petruchio. I -thought I should have died of the side-ach,—I was in perfect agony. The -people here are more civil and considerate than can be imagined. I sent, -yesterday evening, for some water-ice: the confectioner had none; when, -lo! to-night he brings me some he has made on purpose for me, which he -entreats my acceptance of. I admired a very pretty fan Mrs. —— had in -her hand; and at the end of the play she had it sent to my -dressing-room;—and these sort of things are done by me, not once, but -ten times every day. Nothing can exceed the kindness and attention which -has encountered us every where since we have been in this country. I am -sure I am bound to remember America and Americans thankfully; for, -whatever I may think of their ways, manners, or peculiarities, to me -they have shown unmingled good will, and cordial real kindness. Remained -up, packing, till two o'clock.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="center">TO —— ——.</div></div> -<div class="stanza"><div class="i3">Many a league of salt sea rolls</div> -<div class="i3">Between us, yet I think our souls,</div> -<div class="i3">Dear friend, are still as closely tied</div> -<div class="i3">As when we wander'd side by side,</div> -<div class="i3">Some seven years gone, in that fair land</div> -<div class="i3">Where I was born. As hand in hand</div> -<div class="i3">We lived the showery spring away,</div> -<div class="i3">And, when the sunny earth was gay</div> -<div class="i3">With all its blossoms, still together</div> -<div class="i3">We pass'd the pleasant summer weather,</div> -<div class="i3">We little thought the time would come,</div> -<div class="i3">When, from a trans-Atlantic home,</div> -<div class="i3">My voice should greet you lovingly</div> -<div class="i3">Across the deep dividing sea.</div> -<div class="i3">Oh, friend! my heart is sad: 'tis strange,</div> -<div class="i3">As I sit musing on the change</div> -<div class="i3">That has come o'er my fate, and cast</div> -<div class="i3">A longing look upon the past,</div> -<div class="i3">That pleasant time comes back again</div> -<div class="i3">So freshly to my heart and brain,</div> -<div class="i3">That I half think the things I see</div> -<div class="i3">Are but a dream, and I shall be</div> -<div class="i3">Lying beside you, when I wake,</div> -<div class="i3">Upon the lawn beneath the brake,</div> -<div class="i3">With the hazel copse behind my head,</div> -<div class="i3">And the new-mown fields before me spread.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div class="i3">It is just twilight: that sweet time</div> -<div class="i3">Is short-lived in this radiant clime,—</div> -<div class="i3">Where the bright day, and night more bright,</div> -<div class="i3">Upon the horizon's verge unite,</div> -<div class="i3">Nor leave those hours of ray serene,</div> -<div class="i3">In which we think of what has been:</div> -<div class="i3">And it is well; for here no eye</div> -<div class="i3">Turns to the distant days gone by:</div> -<div class="i3"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span>They have no legendary lore</div> -<div class="i3">Of deeds of glory done of yore,—</div> -<div class="i3">No knightly marvel-haunted years,</div> -<div class="i3">The nursery tales of adult ears:</div> -<div class="i3">The busy present, bright to come,</div> -<div class="i3">Of all their thoughts make up the sum:</div> -<div class="i3">Little their little past they heed;</div> -<div class="i3">Therefore of twilight have no need.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>Yet wherefore write I thus? In the short span</div> -<div>Of narrow life doled out to every man,</div> -<div>Though he but reach the threshold of the track,</div> -<div>Where from youth's better path, strikes out the worse,</div> -<div>If he has breathed so long, nor once look'd back,</div> -<div>He has not borne life's load, nor known God's curse.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>And yet, but for that glance that o'er and o'er</div> -<div>Goes tearfully, where we shall go no more;</div> -<div>Courting the sunny spots, where, for a day,</div> -<div>Our bark has found a harbour on its way;</div> -<div>O! but for this, this power of conjuring</div> -<div>Hours, days, and years into the magic ring,</div> -<div>Bidding them yield the show of happiness,</div> -<div>To make our real misery seem less,</div> -<div>Life would be dreary. But these memories start,</div> -<div>Sometimes, unbidden on the mourner's heart;</div> -<div>Unwish'd, unwelcome, round his thoughts they cling,—</div> -<div>In vain flung off, still dimly gathering,</div> -<div>Like melancholy ghosts, upon the path</div> -<div>Where he goes sadly, seeking only death.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>Then live again the forms of those who lie</div> -<div>Gather'd into the grave's dark mystery.</div> -<div>Vainly at reason's voice the phantom flies,—</div> -<div>It comes, it still comes back to the fond eyes,—</div> -<div>Still, still the yearning arms are spread to clasp</div> -<div>The blessing that escapes their baffled grasp:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span></div> -<div>Still the bewildering memory mutters "Gone!"</div> -<div>Still, still the clinging aching heart loves on.</div> -<div>Oh, bitter! that the lips on which we pour</div> -<div>Love's fondest kisses, feel the touch no more;</div> -<div>Oh, lonely! that the voice on which we call</div> -<div>In agony, breaks not its silent thrall;</div> -<div>Oh, fearful! that the eyes in which we gaze</div> -<div>With desperate hope through their thick filmy haze,</div> -<div>Return no living look to bless our sight!</div> -<div>Oh, God! that it were granted that one might</div> -<div>But once behold the secret of the grave,—</div> -<div>That but one voice from the all-shrouding cave</div> -<div>Might speak,—that but one sleeper might emerge</div> -<div>From the deep death-sea's overwhelming surge!</div> -<div>Speak, speak from the grey coffins where ye lie</div> -<div>Fretting to dust your foul mortality!</div> -<div>Speak, from your homes of darkness and dismay,—</div> -<div>To what new being do ye pass away?—</div> -<div>O <i>do</i> ye live, indeed?—speak, if on high</div> -<div>One atom springs whose doom is not to die!—</div> -<div>Where have I wandered?</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 29th.</i></h3> - -<p>When I came down to breakfast, found a very pretty diamond ring and some -Scotch rhymes, from Mr. ——, what we call a small return of favours. I -wish my hand wasn't so abominably ugly,—I hate to put a ring upon it. -—— called to see if we would ride; but D—— had too much to do; and, -after sitting pottering for some time, I sang him the Messenger Bird, -and sent him away. Went for a few moments to Mrs. ——, who seemed much -better. Went out to pay sundry bills and visits. Called at Mr. ——'s, -and spent half an hour most delightfully in his study. His picture of my -father is very like, and very agreeable. 'Tis too youthful by a good -deal; but the expression of the face is extremely good, and upon the -whole, except that stern-looking thing of Kearsley's, 'tis the likest -thing I have seen of him.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> We had a long discussion about the -stage,—the dramatic art; which, as Helen says, "is none," for, "no art -but taketh time and pains to learn." Now I am a living and breathing -witness that a person may be accounted a good actor, and to a certain -degree deserve the title, without time or pains of any sort being -expended upon the acquisition of the reputation. But, on other grounds, -acting has always appeared to me to be the very lowest of the arts, -admitting that it deserves to be classed among them at all, which I am -not sure it does. In the first place, it originates nothing; it lacks, -therefore, the grand faculty which all other arts possess—creation. An -actor is at the best but the filler-up of the outline designed by -another,—the expounder, as it were, of things which another has set -down; and a fine piece of acting is at best, in my opinion, a fine -translation. Moreover, it is not alone to charm the senses that the -nobler powers of mind were given to man; 'tis not alone to enchant the -eye, that the gorgeous pallet of the painter, and the fine chisel of the -statuary, have become, through heavenly inspiration, magical wands, -summoning to life images of loveliness, of majesty, and grace; 'tis not -alone to soothe the ear that music has possessed, as it were, certain -men with the spirit of sweet sounds; 'tis not alone to delight the -fancy, that the poet's great and glorious power was given him, by which, -as by a spell, he peoples all space, and all time, with undying -witnesses of his own existence; 'tis not alone to minister to our senses -that these most beautiful capabilities were sown in the soil of our -souls. But 'tis that, through them, all that is most refined, most -excellent and noble, in our mental and moral nature, may be led through -their loveliness, as through a glorious archway, to the source of all -beauty and all goodness. It is that by them our perceptions of truth may -be made more vivid, our love of loveliness increased, our intellect -refined and elevated, our nature softened, our memory stored with images -of brightness, which, like glorious reflections, falling again upon our -souls, may tend to keep alive in them the knowledge of, and the desire -after, what is true, and fair, and noble. But, that art may have this -effect, it must be to a certain degree enduring. It must not be a -transient vision, which fades and leaves but a recollection of what it -was, which will fade too. It must not be for an hour, a day, or a year, -but abiding, inasmuch as any thing earthly may abide, to charm the sense -and cheer the soul of generation after generation. And here it is that -the miserable deficiency of acting is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> most apparent. Whilst the poems, -the sculptures, of the old Grecian time yet remain to witness to these -latter ages the enduring life of truth and beauty; whilst the poets of -Rome, surviving the trophies of her thousand victories, are yet familiar -in our mouths as household words; whilst Dante, Boccaccio, that giant, -Michael Angelo, yet live, and breathe, and have their being amongst us, -through the rich legacy their genius has bequeathed to time; whilst the -wild music of Salvator Rosa, solemn and sublime as his painting, yet -rings in our ears, and the souls of Shakspeare, Milton, Raphael, and -Titian, are yet shedding into our souls divinest influences from the -very fountains of inspiration;—where are the pageants that, night after -night, during the best era of dramatic excellence, riveted the gaze of -thousands, and drew forth their acclamations?—gone, like rosy sunset -clouds;—fair painted vapours, lovely to the sight, but vanishing as -dreams, leaving no trace in heaven, no token of their ever having been -there. Where are the labours of Garrick, of Macklin, of Cooke, of -Kemble, of Mrs. Siddons?—chronicled in the dim memories of some few of -their surviving spectators; who speak of them with an enthusiasm which -we, who never saw them, fancy the offspring of that feeling which makes -the old look back to the time of their youth as the only days when the -sun knew how to shine. What have these great actors left, either to -delight the sense or elevate the soul, but barren names, unwedded to a -single lasting evidence of greatness! If, then, acting be alike without -the creating power and the enduring property, which are at once the -highest faculty of art, and its most beneficial purpose, what becomes of -it when ranked with efforts displaying both in the highest degree? To me -it seems no art,<a name="FNanchor_79_79" id="FNanchor_79_79"></a><a href="#Footnote_79_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a> but merely a highly rational,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span> interesting, and -exciting amusement; and I think men may as well, much better, perhaps, -spend three hours in a theatre than in a billiard or bar-room,—and this -is the extent of my approbation and admiration of my art. Called on Mrs. -——, whom I like very much. Went to the riding-school to try a new -horse, which was ten hands high, all covered with shaggy angry-looking -hair, with a donkey's head, and cart-horse legs, with one of which he -peached. —— came to see me mount. Dr. ——'s grey horse was standing -in the school with a man's saddle on. I persuaded —— to put me on it, -and I then sent him away.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>When he was gone, rode for about an hour without any pommel, and found I -managed it famously. I slipped my foot out of the stirrup in order to -see if I could sit without both; but this proved rather too much, for I -presently slid very comfortably off. On my way home, met young ——, -with his head so completely in the clouds, that I had bowed to him, and -was driving on, when he just perceived me, and fell into a confusion of -bows, which he continued long after the coach had passed him. Found the -usual token of his having been at our house—a most beautiful nosegay; -roses, hyacinths, and myrtle. While I was arranging them, I heard a -tremendous shriek of laughter in the hall, which was followed by the -appearance of Mr. ——. After sitting with him some time, I went and sat -with Mrs. ——. The amiable Chargé d'Affaires dined with us. After -dinner, went to see Mrs. ——; but she was too unwell to receive me.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span></p><p>Saw Dr. ——, who expressed manifold deplorings at my departure: gave -him the words of the Sisters. At half-past five, went to the theatre: -play, the Wonder. I acted only so-so: my father was a <i>leetle dans les -vignes du Seigneur</i>. When the play was over, the folk called for us, and -we went on: he made them a neat speech, and I nothing but a cross face -and three courtesies. How I do hate this! 'Tis quite enough to exhibit -myself to a gaping crowd, when my profession requires that I should do -so in a feigned semblance; but to come bobbing and genuflexioning on, as -me myself, to be clapped and shouted at, and say, "Thank ye kindly," is -odious. After the play, dressed, and off to Mrs. ——, with my father -and Mr. ——. On our way thither, the spring of our coach broke, and we -had to go halting along for half an hour, with a graceful inclination -towards the pavement on one side, which was very pleasant. There was -quite a brilliant party at Mrs. ——'s. Told Mr. —— that I had thrown -his horse down. Saw and spoke to all Philadelphia. —— was there, and -actually sitting still. Fell in love with Mr. ——'s youngest son, who -is a youth of some ten years old, and hovers round me with a plenitude -of silent admiration and astonishment that is most delightful. Miss -——, who is a very pretty creature (in fact, all American women are -pretty creatures, I never saw any prettier), sang Dalla Gioga e del -Piacer. She sings very well, but pronounces Italian very Americanly, -which is a pity. I don't know any thing so necessary to good singing as -a good Italian pronunciation, <i>except</i> perhaps a good voice, and a good -school. They made me sing, and I sang them the galley song, after which -Miss —— warbled again. They were surrounding me again, with a shower -of "pray do's," when perceiving D—— making towards me, with my boa on -her arm, I sat down and sang them, "Yes, aunt, I am ready to go," to -their infinite edification. I wonder if Mrs. —— would object to this; -I should think not, as —— is not here to catch it again.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Came home, and supped. I had eaten nothing since four o'clock, and was -famished; for I do not like stewed oysters and terrapins, which are the -refreshments invariably handed round at an American evening party. Did -not get to bed till two o'clock. How beautifully bright the heavens are -here! The sky has an earnest colour that is lovely and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> solemn to look -at; and the moon, instead of being "the maiden with white fire laden," -has a rich, mellow, golden light, than which nothing can be more -beautiful. The stars, too, are more vivid than in our skies, and there -is a variety of hues in their light which I never observed before,—some -reddish, some violet, and again others of the palest silver.</p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 30th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, Mr. —— called, also ——, to know at what time we -would ride. I fixed at twelve, thereby calculating that we should escape -the people coming out from church. Went and sat a few minutes with Mrs. -——.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Spent my Sunday morning on my knees, indeed, but packing, not praying. -The horses did not come till half-past twelve; so that, instead of -avoiding, we encountered the pious multitude. I'm sure when we mounted -there were not less than a hundred and fifty beholders round the Mansion -House. Rode out to Laurel Hill. The cross road was muddy, so we took the -turnpike, which was clean and short, and would have been pleasant enough -but for my brute of a horse. Upon my word, these American horses are -most unsafe to ride. I never mount one but I recommend myself to the -care of Heaven, for I expect to have every bone in my body broken before -I dismount again. At Laurel Hill we lunched. While D—— put up her -hair, —— and I ran down to the water side. The ice had melted from the -river, in whose still waters the shores, and trees, and bridge lay -mirrored with beautiful and fairy-like distinctness. The long icicles -under the rocky brow beneath which we stood had not melted away, though -the warm sun was shining brilliantly on them, and making the granite -slab on which we stood sparkle like a pavement of diamonds. I called to -the echo, and sang to it scales up, and scales down, and every manner of -musical discourse I could think of, during which interesting amusement I -as nearly as possible slipped from my footing into the river, which -caused both —— and myself to gulp. We left our pleasant sunny stand at -last, to rejoin D—— and the lunch, and, having eaten and drunken, we -remounted and proceeded on to Manayunk, under the bright, warm, blessed -<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span>sunshine, which came down like a still shining shower upon the earth. -The beautiful little water-courses had all broken from their diamond -chains, and came dancing and singing down the hills, between the cedar -bushes, and the masses of grey granite, like merry children laughing as -they run. After crossing the bridge at Flat Rock, I took the van, riding -by myself much faster than my companions, whom I left to entertain each -other. Several times, as I looked down at the delicious fresh water, all -rosy with the rosy light of the clouds, and gushing round the masses of -rock that intercepted their channel, I longed to jump off my horse, and -go down among their shallow brilliant eddies. The whole land was mellow -with warm sunset, the sky soft, and bright, and golden, like a dream. I -stopped for a long time opposite the Wissihiccon creek. The stone -bridge, with its grey arch, mingled with the rough blocks of rock on -which it rested, the sheet of foaming water falling like a curtain of -gold over the dam among the dark stones below, on whose brown sides the -ruddy sunlight and glittering water fell like splinters of light. The -thick, bright, rich tufted cedars basking in the warm amber glow, the -picturesque mill, the smooth open field along whose side the river -waters, after receiving this child of the mountains into their bosom, -wound deep, and bright, and still, the whole radiant with the softest -light I ever beheld, formed a most enchanting and serene subject of -contemplation. Further on, I stopped again, to look at a most beautiful -mass of icicles, formed by some water falling from a large wooden -conduit which belonged to a mill. The long thick masses of silvery white -clung in downward pyramids together, and on the ground, great round -balls of purest transparent ice, like enormous crystal grapes, lay -clustered upon each other. I waited on a little sunny knoll above this -glittering fairy work, till my companions joined me, when, leaving D—— -to pursue the main road, —— and I turned off, and explored a pretty -ravine, down which another mountain stream, half free wild water, half -shimmering diamond ice, sparkled in the sunset. We reached Philadelphia -at half-past four, and had again to canter down Chestnut Street just as -the folks were all coming from church, which caused no little staring, -and turning of heads. My father asked —— to dine with us, but he -refused. Mr. —— dined with us. After dinner, went in to pay my last -visit to my poor sick friend. I sat with her until summoned to see some -gentlemen in the drawing-room. It pained me to part<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> from her; for -though she exerted herself bravely, she was very much overcome. I fear -she will miss me, poor thing; I had become very much attached to her. I -went in to bid Mrs. —— good-by. —— was not gone to bed; I took her -in my arms and kissed her, saying I should not see her for a long time -again. The tears came into her baby eyes, and she said very sadly, "God -bless you, Fanny." How curious a train of associations that word -produced in me! It brought ——, and Lord ——, and that beautiful -creature his child, before my very eyes. But her father had told little -Lady —— to say that,—I am sure he did; now this little creature -blessed me out of her own heart. A child's blessing is a holy thing. -Came into the drawing-room. Found Dr. ——, young Mr. ——, and Mr. —— -there. Presently, Mr. —— came in, with Baron ——, a man with a thick -head, thick white hair, that stood out round it like a silver halo, and -gold ear-rings. I sang to them till past ten o'clock, and then came to -my own room, where I remained up packing and pottering until past two.</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 31st.</i></h3> - -<p>The river being yet open, thank Heaven, we arose at half-past four -o'clock. Dressed sans dawdling for once, and came down.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>D—— and I were bundled into a coach, and rumbled and tumbled over the -stones, through the blackness of darkness down to the steam-boat. —— -was waiting for us, and convoyed us safely to the cabin, where I laid -myself down, and slept till breakfast-time. My father, Captain ——, Mr. -——, and Baron ——, sat themselves down most comfortably to breakfast, -leaving us entirely to the charge and care of ——, who fulfilled his -trust with infinite zeal. 'Tis curious; there was a man on board whom I -have now seen every time I have been going to or from New York to -Philadelphia, whose appearance was in itself very remarkable, and the -subsequent account I received of him perhaps increased the sort of -impression it made upon me. He was a man of about from thirty to -thirty-five, <i>I guess</i>, standing about five feet ten, with a great -appearance of strength and activity. His face was that of a foreigner, -the features were remarkably well cut, and the piercing black eyes, dark -hair, and brown complexion, gave a Spanish character<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> to his -countenance. There was a sort of familiar would-be gentlemanly manner in -his deportment and address, and a species of slang gentility in his -carriage and conversation, that gave me a curiosity to ascertain what on -earth he could be. After breakfast, walked up and down deck with ——. -—— was on board. I am happy to hear he is thriving: I love all my -fellow-passengers; and when I see one of them, my heart warms towards -them, as to a bit of the dear old land left behind. After about an -hour's steaming, we disembarked to cross the narrow neck of land which -divides the Delaware from the Chesapeake. Here we got into a coach -holding some twelve of us, to be conveyed over the rail-road by one of -Stevenson's engines. Neither the road nor the conveyances are comparable -to those of the Liverpool and Manchester rail-way; and instead of those -luxurious roomy coaches, which form the merit of the Liverpool train, we -were squeezy and uncomfortable to a degree. The country along this slip -of land is flat and very uninteresting, clothed with threadbare young -woods, whose thin spare skeletons, without their leafy mantles, looked -excessively miserable. The distance from the Delaware to Frenchtown, on -the Elk, where we were again to take water, is about sixteen miles, -which we did in an hour. The first part of the road lies in Delaware, -the latter in Maryland. The Elk, which in this world of huge waters is -considered but a paltry ditch, but which in our country would be thought -a very decent-sized river, was, a few days ago, frozen up, thereby -putting a stop to the steam-boat travelling. But, fortunately for us, it -was open to-day, and presently we beheld the steamer coming puffing up -to take us from the pier. This boat—the Charles Carroll—is one of the -finest they have. 'Tis neither so swift nor so large, I think, as some -of the North river boats, but it is a beautiful vessel, roomy and -comfortable in its arrangements. I went below for a few minutes, but -found, as usual, the atmosphere of the cabin perfectly intolerable. The -ladies' cabin, in winter, on board one of these large steamers, is a -right curious sight. 'Tis generally crammed to suffocation with women, -<i>strewn</i> in every direction. The greater number cuddle round a stove, -the heat of which alone would make the atmosphere unbreathable. Others -sit lazily in a species of rocking-chair,—which is found wherever -Americans sit down,—cradling themselves backwards and forwards, with a -lazy, lounging, sleepy air, that makes me long to make them get up and -walk. Others again manage,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> even upon fresh water, to be very sick. -There are generally a dozen young human beings, some naughty, sick, and -squalling, others happy, romping, and riotous; and what with the -vibratory motion of the rocking-chairs and their contents, the women's -shrill jabber, the children's shriller wailing and shouting, the heat -and closeness of the air, a ladies' cabin on board an American -steam-boat is one of the most overpowering things to sense and soul that -can well be imagined. There was a poor sick woman with three children, -among our company, two of which were noisy unruly boys, of from eight to -ten years old. One of them set up a howl as soon as he came on board, -which he prolonged, to our utter dismay, for upwards of half an hour -sans intermission, except to draw breath. I bore it as long as I could; -but threats, entreaties, and bribes having been resorted to in vain, by -all the women in the cabin, to silence him, I at length very composedly -took him up in my arms, and deposited him on his back in one of the -upper berths; whereupon his brother flew at his mother, kicking, -thumping, screaming, and yelling. The cabin was in an uproar; the little -wretch I held in my arms struggled like a young giant, and though I -succeeded in lodging him upon the upper shelf, presently slid down from -it like an eel. However, this effort had a salutary effect, for it -obtained silence,—the crying gave way to terror, which produced -silence, of which I availed myself to sleep till dinner-time. At dinner, -—— and Mr. —— took charge of D—— and me, who, seeing that we were -to get no dinner till six o'clock, thought fit to eat some lunch. The -strange dark man was sitting opposite us, and discoursing away to his -neighbours in a strain and tone in which shrewdness and swagger, and -vulgarity and a sort of braggart gallantry, were curiously jumbled. From -his conversation, it was evident that he was a seafaring man. He spoke -of having been a midshipman on board an American frigate. The question -they were debating was that of superstitious prejudice, involving belief -in lucky and unlucky days, witches, ghosts, etc. The stranger professed -perfect faith in all, and added sundry experiences of his own, at the -same time observing, that with regard to sailors, the strong prejudice -they have against sailing on certain days often creates the very ill -luck they apprehend; for if any danger should occur, 'tis all attributed -to evil influences against which they have no power, and they are at -once deprived of half their energy in labour, and half their courage<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> in -peril. When dinner was over, I pointed out this strange man to my -father, asking him if he had any idea who he was. "I am told," was his -reply, "that he is but just returned from New York, where he has been -tried for piracy." This accounted for every thing,—dare-devil look and -language, seafaring adventures, and superstitious creed. It is a -pleasant mode of travelling that throws one into contact with such -company.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Touching pirates, Baltimore, I was told (I know not how truly) is famous -for them. They have small schooners there of a particularly light build, -and raking masts, which are the prettiest craft in the world to look at, -and the swiftest that sail sea. The Baltimore clippers are proverbial -for their elegance and fleetness: they are like greyhounds on the water. -These, I was told, were frequently owned by gentlemen of rather an -ambiguous character, something between pirate, smuggler, and wrecker, -perhaps a judicious compound of all three. Their trade is chiefly, I -believe, with and about the West India islands. I looked at my -Spanish-faced friend with redoubled curiosity: he was the very man for a -pirate. We reached Baltimore at about half-past four. The Chesapeake -bay, like the Delaware river, appeared to me admirable only as an -immense sheet of water. At some parts that we passed, it was six, at -others, ten, at others, thirteen miles across. The shores were flat and -uninteresting on one side, but on the other occasionally very -picturesque and beautiful, rising in red-looking cliffs from the water's -edge, and crowned with beautiful green tufts of wood—cedar, I suppose, -for nothing else is green at this time. The curvings of the shore, too, -are very pretty; but, owing to the enormous width of the water, my -imperfect vision could hardly discern the peculiar features of the land. -The day was more lovely than a fine day in early September, in -England,—bright, soft and sunny, with the blue in the sky of the -delicate colour one sees in the Sèvres porcelain. As we entered the -Patapsco, and neared Baltimore, North Point and Fort M'Henry were -pointed out to me. My spirits always sink when I come to a strange -place; and as we came along the wharf sides, under the red dingy-looking -warehouses, between which the water ran in narrow dark-looking canals, I -felt terribly gloomy. We drove up to Barnham's, the best house in the -town; and, having<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> found out where to lay my head, I had my fill of -crying.<a name="FNanchor_80_80" id="FNanchor_80_80"></a><a href="#Footnote_80_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a> After dinner, went and lay down; slept profoundly till nine -o'clock. On my return to the drawing-room, found —— there, and Mr. -——, the man who owns the Front Street theatre, but who it seems is -only just out of gaol, and has neither actors nor scenes to get up a -play withal. While he was here, came missives from the proprietors of -the Holliday Street theatre, to inform my father that it was lighted up, -and requesting him to come and look at it. This was awkward rather. When -Mr. —— was gone, I came to my room, where I remained without a fire, -cold without and disconsolate within, till past one o'clock. I did not -know it was New-Year's eve; and so the waters carried me over this other -dam without my looking back at what was past, or forward at what is to -come: and why should I?—surely "the thing that hath been, it is that -which shall be; and that which is done, is that which shall be done; and -there is no new thing under the sun:" sorrow and joy, hoping and -fearing, pain and pleasure, laughing and weeping, striving and -yielding,—they will all come again and again, and all things will be -the same, till all things cease.</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, January, 1st</i>, } <br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>New-Year's Day</i>, } 1833.</span></h3> - -<p>There it lies in its cradle! its pure forehead yet unstained by sin, -unfurrowed by care; and not an hour shall have passed without the traces -of both becoming visible. And where is the mother gone? where is the -fulfilled year?—Gone sorrowing to join the crowd of ancestors, who -witness each against me for the unthrift waste I have made of the rich -legacies they one by one have bestowed on me. Oh, new-born year! ere -half thy hours are spent, how often will my weary spirit have wished -them fleeter wings than even those they wear! What secrets are there -folded in thy breast,—what undreamt-of chances,—what strange -befallings,—what unforeseen sorrows,—what unexpected joys!<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> Perhaps, -in the mysterious accomplishments with which thou art laden, my death -may be numbered!—perhaps, ere thy course be duly run, the death of Time -may be decreed! Oh! this life, and all things in it, remind me of the -thin veils of spiders' webs which divided Desire from his aim, and -which, though light and transparent, were so numerous, that to lift them -all away was hopeless. After breakfast, began writing journal. 'Twas not -until dating it that I discovered it was New-year's day. When I did so, -and looked at my strange surroundings, at the gloomy wintry sky, and -thought of the heathenish disregard with which I was passing over, in -this far land, the season of home-gathering and congregating of kin in -my own country, I could not refrain from crying bitterly. In spite of -the pouring rain, and Mr. ——'s hints to keep us away, my father, who -wished to ascertain the truth of the reports with regard to the state of -his theatre, set forward thither with me. We found a very large handsome -house, larger, I think, than the Park, but dirty, dilapidated, and -looking as if there had been eleven executions in it that morning. No -actors, scarcely any scenes,—in short, such a state of things as -rendered it totally impossible for us to think of acting there. Came -home; sat diligently crying the whole morning. The afternoon cleared up, -and became soft and sunny. My father insisted on my taking a walk; so I -bonneted and set out with him. What I saw of the town appeared to me -extremely like the outskirts of Birmingham or Manchester. Bright-red -brick houses, in rows of three and five, with interesting gaps of -gravel-pits, patches of meadow, and open spaces between, which give it -an untidy straggling appearance. They are building in every direction, -however, and in less than two years, these little pauses being filled -up, Baltimore will be a very considerable place; for it covers, in its -present state, a large extent of ground, and contains a vast population. -Immediately after dinner, our host made his entrée with a piano-forte. I -had suggested to Mr. —— that I should be glad of one; and here it -came. I had asked him to return in the evening, and was glad of the -piano, for it helps the time away. At six o'clock, the managers of the -Holliday Street theatre made their appearance; and my father stating -that Mr. —— was literally unable to fulfil his engagement with us, -entered into arrangements with them, during which I sat up at a -tremendously high window, looking at the beautiful serious skies, and -radiant moon, and listening to a tolerable band playing sundry of -Rossini's airs.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> When these men had departed, —— came in. I sang and -made him sing till tea-time. After that, he entertained us with a very -long, but not very clear, account of the various processes of making, -polishing, etc. steel, as practised in his manufactory. His account of -their hard dealings with the poorer manufacturers was dreadful; and he -himself spoke with horror of it, saying, "Oh, they are so miserably -ground, poor wretches, they cannot be said to live,—they barely exist." -When I remonstrated with him upon the wickedness of such proceedings, he -replied, "We are compelled to do it in self-defence: if we did not use -the same means as other manufacturers, we should presently be -undersold." And this is the game playing all over England at this -moment, in every department of her commerce and manufacture,—this cruel -oppression of the poor, this forcing them by a league against them, as -it were, to toil in bitterness for their scanty daily bread, while those -who thus inhumanly depreciate their labour, and wring their hard -earnings from their starving grasp, grow wealthy on their plunder. Are -not these the things for which God has said he will avenge? Is his -abomination of the false balance, and the stinted measure, and the -unjust reckoning, less than in the days when he said he would visit the -oppressor of the poor, and plead the cause of the widow and fatherless? -Are not these the things that make a nation rotten at core, and ripe for -decay? Are not these the things for which retribution is laid up, and -fourfold restitution will be demanded?—'Tis awful to think of. From -this the conversation grew to the means of obtaining interest upon money -in this country, which the gentlemen discussed together for a length of -time. I listened to them with many sad thoughts. How intent they seemed -in their discourse, how much they appeared to value every slightest -advantage of place or circumstance which enabled them to draw a greater -profit from their capital; how eagerly, how earnestly, they seemed -absorbed in these calculations. I do not know when I have been so -forcibly struck with the worthlessness of money, and the strange -delusion under which all men seem to be labouring, giving up their -lives, as they do, to the hunting of wealth. Are these the cares that -should engross the faculties of immortal souls, and rational thinking -creatures? That we must live, I know, and that money is necessary to -live, I know; but that our glorious capacities of soul, mind, and body, -the fitting exercise of which alone, in itself, is happiness, should -thus be chained down to the altar horns of Mammon, is what I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> never will -believe wise, right, or fitting. I at length spoke, for my heart was -burning within me, and burst into an eloquent lamentation on the folly -and misery of which the world was guilty in following this base worship -as it does. But when I said that I was convinced happiness might and did -exist most blessedly upon half the means which men spent their lives in -scraping together, my father laughed, and said I was the last person in -the world who could live on little, or be content with the mediocrity I -vaunted. I looked at my satin gown, and held my tongue, but still I was -not convinced. We returned to our music till ten o'clock, when they had -some supper, after which they drank a happy new year to England:—poor -old England, God bless it! At about twelve o'clock, —— departed. Sat -up a long time at the window, listening to some serenading, which, in -the moonlight, sounded pleasantly enough.<a name="FNanchor_81_81" id="FNanchor_81_81"></a><a href="#Footnote_81_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a></p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 6th.</i></h3> - -<p>At about half-past ten, Mr. —— called for us, and we walked up to the -cathedral, which is a large unfinished stone building, standing on the -brow of a hill, which is to be the fashionable quarter of the town, and -where there are already some very nice-looking houses. The interior of -the church is large and handsome, and has more the look of a church than -any thing I have been inside of in this country yet. 'Tis full eight -years since I was in a Catholic church; and the sensation with which I -approached the high altar, with its golden crucifix, its marble -entablatures, and its glimmering starry lights, savoured fully as much -of sadness as devotion. I have not been in a Catholic place of worship -since I was at school. How well I remember the beautiful music of the -military mass, the pageants and processions of the feast days at high -mass, and the evening service, not vespers, but the Salut.<a name="FNanchor_82_82" id="FNanchor_82_82"></a><a href="#Footnote_82_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a> They sang -that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span> exquisitely mournful and beautiful <i>Et incarnatus est</i>, of -Haydn's, which made my blood all run backwards. One thing disgusted me -dreadfully, though the priests who were officiating never passed or -approached the altar without bending the knee to it, they kept spitting -all over the carpet that surrounded and covered the steps to it, -interrupting themselves in the middle of the service to do so, without -the slightest hesitation. We had a very indifferent sermon: the service -was of course in Latin. When it was over, Mr. —— insisted on showing -me some paintings which hung on either side the grand entrance. These -were a couple of pictures by Paulin Guerin; the one representing the -descent from the cross, the other, the burying of the dead, by St. -Charles, in the Holy Land. I do not understand much about bad pictures, -but I know good ones when I see them; and I think these were not such. -There was no beauty of imagination or poetical conception whatever in -them, and there appeared to me to be manifold glaring faults in the -execution. I could have sworn to their being French pictures. Was -introduced to several people, coming out of church. A little way beyond -the cathedral stands Washington's monument,—a <i>neat and appropriate</i> -pillar,—which, together with a smaller one erected at the head of our -street, to the memory of the North Point heroes, has given Baltimore the -appellation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> of the monumental city, which never could have befallen it -in any other country under heaven but this. At eight o'clock, we went to -Mrs. ——'s. They are all in deep mourning, and the circle was very -small. They are most agreeable pleasant people, with a peculiar -gentleness of manner, like very high breeding, which I have often -observed in Catholics of the better orders. Their conversation appeared -to me totally divested of the disagreeable accent which seems almost -universal in this country. Mrs. —— talked to me about my aunt -Whitelock, and what a charming actress she was, and what an enchanting -thrilling voice she had. I spent a delightful evening. Before we went -away, Mr. —— showed us a picture of Lady ——, by Lawrence. It looked -quite refreshing, with its lovely dark curls unfrizzed, and the form of -the neck and arms undisguised by the hideousness of modern fashions. Saw -a very good likeness, too, of the Duke of ——. 'Twas very like him, -though many years younger.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>By the by, somebody said that —— had turned Roman Catholic, and very -devout. Some of the Marys and Magdalens of the old Italian painters are -very converting pictures, with their tearful melancholy eyes, and -golden, glorious, billowy hair. Mrs. —— amused me very much by her -account of the slaves on their estates, whom, she said, she found the -best and most faithful servants in the world. Being born upon the land, -there exists among them something of the old spirit of clanship, and -"our house," "our family," are the terms by which they designate their -owners. In the south, there are no servants but blacks; for the greater -proportion of domestics being slaves, all species of servitude whatever -is looked upon as a degradation; and the slaves themselves entertain the -very highest contempt for white servants, whom they designate as "poor -white trash."</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 7th.</i></h3> - -<p>Young —— called, and stayed about an hour with us. At half-past five, -took coffee, and off to the theatre. The play was Romeo and Juliet; the -house was extremely full: they are a delightful audience. My Romeo had -gotten on a pair of trunk breeches, that looked as if he had borrowed -them from some worthy Dutchman of a hundred years<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> ago. Had he worn them -in New York, I could have understood it as a compliment to the ancestry -of that good city; but here, to adopt such a costume in Romeo, was -really perfectly unaccountable. They were of a most unhappy choice of -colours, too,—dull, heavy-looking blue cloth, and offensive crimson -satin, all be-puckered, and be-plaited, and be-puffed, till the young -man looked like a magical figure growing out of a monstrous strange -coloured-melon, beneath which descended his unfortunate legs, thrust -into a pair of red slippers, for all the world like Grimaldi's legs <i>en -costume</i> for clown. The play went off pretty smoothly, except that they -broke one man's collar-bone, and nearly dislocated a woman's shoulder by -flinging the scenery about. My bed was not made in time, and when the -scene drew, half a dozen carpenters in patched trowsers and tattered -shirt-sleeves were discovered smoothing down my pillows, and adjusting -my draperies. The last scene is too good not to be given verbatim:—</p> - -<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Romeo.</span><span class="s7"> </span>Rise, rise, my Juliet,<br /> -And from this cave of death, this house of horror,<br /> -Quick let me snatch thee to thy Romeo's arms.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Here he pounced upon me, plucked me up in his arms like an uncomfortable -bundle, and staggered down the stage with me.</p> - -<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Juliet.</span> (<i>aside.</i>) Oh, you've got me up horridly!—that'll never -do; let me down, pray let me down.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Romeo.</span> There, breathe a vital spirit on thy lips,<br /> -<span class="s3"> </span>And call thee back, my soul, to life and love!</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Juliet.</span> (<i>aside.</i>) Pray put me down; you'll certainly throw me down -if you don't set me on the ground directly.</p></blockquote> - -<p>In the midst of "cruel cursed fate," his dagger fell out of his dress; -I, embracing him tenderly, crammed it back again, because I knew I -should want it at the end.</p> - -<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Romeo.</span> Tear not our heart-strings thus!<br /> -<span class="s3"> </span>They crack! they break!—Juliet! Juliet! (<i>dies.</i>)</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Juliet.</span> (<i>to corpse.</i>) Am I smothering you?</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Corpse.</span> (<i>to Juliet.</i>) Not at all; could you be so kind, do you -think, as to put my wig on again for me?—it has fallen off.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span></p><p><span class="smcap">Juliet.</span> (<i>to corpse.</i>) I'm afraid I can't, but I'll throw my -muslin veil over it. You've broken the phial, haven't you?</p> - -<p>(<i>Corpse nodded.</i>)</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Juliet.</span> (<i>to corpse.</i>) Where's your dagger?</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Corpse.</span> (<i>to Juliet.</i>) 'Pon my soul, I don't know.</p></blockquote> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 13th.</i></h3> - -<p>By half-past ten we were packed in what in this country is termed an -<i>exclusive extra</i>, <i>i. e.</i> a stage-coach to ourselves, and progressing -towards Washington. The coach was comfortable enough, and the country, -for the first twelve or fifteen miles, owing to the abominable account I -had heard of it from every body, disappointed me rather agreeably. It -was by no means so dreary or desolate as I had been led to expect. There -was considerable variety in its outline, and the quantity of cedar -thickets scattered over it took away from the comfortless threadbare -look of the wintry woods. Threadbare, indeed, the trees can scarce be -called; for the leaves of the black oak, instead of falling as they -fade, remain upon the branches, and give the trees more the effect of -being lightning-struck, or accidentally blasted, than withered by the -fair course of the seasons. I think the effect is more disagreeable than -that of absolutely bare leafless boughs. When near, the trees look -singularly deplorable and untidy, although at the distance, the -red-brown of the faded oaks mingling with the bright, vivid, green -cedars, and here and there a silver-barked buttonwood tree raising its -white delicate branches from among them, produce a very agreeable and -harmonious blending to the eye. The soil, the banks by the road-side, -and broken ridges of ravines, and water-courses, attracted my attention -by the variety and vividness of their colours; the brightest red and -yellow, and then again pale green, and rich warm gravel-colour. I wished -I had been a geologist. How much pleasure of reflection and -contemplation is lost to the ignorant, whose outward sense wanders over -the objects that surround it, deriving from them but half the delight -that they give the wise and well-informed; even fancy is at fault, for -fancy itself scarce devises images more strange, and beautiful, and -wonderful, than the reality of things presents to those who understand -their properties and natures. The waters were all fast frozen up, and -one or two little pools, all curdled with ice, and locked up in deep -gravelly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> basins, looked like onyx stones set in gold. As for the road, -we had been assured it was exceedingly good; but mercy on us! I can't -think of it without aching. Here we went up, up, up, and there we went -down, down, down,—now, I was in my father's lap, and now I was half out -of window. The utter impossibility of holding one's self in any one -position for two minutes is absolutely ridiculous. Sometimes we laughed, -and at other times we groaned, at our helpless and hopeless condition; -but at last we arrived, with no bones broken, at about three o'clock, at -the capital and seat of government of the United States.<a name="FNanchor_83_83" id="FNanchor_83_83"></a><a href="#Footnote_83_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a> Upon the -height immediately above the city is situated the Capitol, a very -handsome building, of which the Americans are not a little proud; but it -seems placed there by mistake, so little do the miserable untidy hovels -above, and the scattered unfinished red-brick town below, accord with -its patrician marble and high-sounding title. We drove to Gadsby's, -which is an inn like a little town, with more wooden galleries, flights -of steps, passages, door-ways, exits, and entrances, than any building I -ever saw: it reminded me of the house in Tieck's Love-charm. We had not -been arrived a quarter of an hour, when in walked Mr. —— and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> Captain -——, and presently Mr. ——. They sat for some time discussing, -laughing, quizzing, and being funny, and then departed. Captain —— was -telling us a story about a man somewhere up in the lost lands, who was -called Philemon, and whose three sons were paganed (christened, I -suppose, one can't say,) Romulus, Remus, and Tiberius. I thought this -was too good to be true; and D—— and I, laughing over it at dinner, -agreed that we wished any thing of the sort had happened to us. "Some -bread, waiter: what is your name?" said I to the black who was waiting -upon us. "Horatius!" was the reply; which sent me and D—— into fits.</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 14th.</i></h3> - -<p>When I came in to breakfast, found Mr. ——, whom I like mainly. While -he was here, Dr. —— and —— came in. I gave the latter a most -tremendous grasp of the hand: it was like seeing a bit of England to see -him. He said to me, "Oh, how strange it is to see you here;" which -caused my eyes to fill with tears, for, Heaven knows, it feels strange -enough. They had hardly been seated two minutes, when in rushed a boy to -call us to rehearsal. I was as vexed as might be. They all departed; -—— faithfully promising to come again, and have a long talk about the -old country: we then set forth to rehearsal. The theatre is the tiniest -little box that ever was seen,—not much bigger, I verily think, than -the baby's play-house at Versailles. When I came to perceive who the -company were, and that sundry of our Baltimore comrades were come on -hither, I begged to be excused from rehearsing, as they had all done -their parts but a few days before with me. At about two o'clock, Mr. -—— came to take us to the Capitol. Mr. —— was in the drawing-room. -He had just seen the President; and it seems, that far from coming to -any accommodation with the South Carolinians, there is an immediate -probability of their coming to blows. They say, the old General is -longing for a fight; and, most assuredly, to fight would be better, in -this instance, than to give in; for to yield would be virtually to admit -the right of every individual state to dictate to the whole government. -We walked up to the Capitol: the day was most beautifully bright and -sunny, and the mass of white building, with its terraces and columns, -stood out in fine relief against the cloudless blue sky. We went first -into the senate, or upper house, because Webster<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> was speaking, whom I -especially wished to hear. The room itself is neither large nor lofty; -the senators sit in two semi-circular rows, turned towards the -President, in comfortable arm-chairs. On the same ground, and literally -sitting among the senators, were a whole regiment of ladies, whispering, -talking, laughing, and fidgeting. A gallery, level with the floor, and -only divided by a low partition from the main room, ran round the -apartment: this, too, was filled with pink, and blue, and yellow -bonnets; and every now and then, while the business of the house was -going on, and Webster speaking, a tremendous bustle, and waving of -feathers, and rustling of silks, would be heard, and in came streaming a -reinforcement of political beauties, and then would commence a jumping -up, a sitting down, a squeezing through, and a how-d'-ye-doing, and a -shaking of hands. The senators would turn round; even Webster would -hesitate, as if bothered by the row, and, in short, the whole thing was -more irregular, and unbusiness-like, than any one could have -imagined.<a name="FNanchor_84_84" id="FNanchor_84_84"></a><a href="#Footnote_84_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a> Webster's face is very remarkable, particularly the -forehead and eyes. The former projects singularly, absolutely -overhanging the latter, which have a very melancholy, and occasionally -rather wild, expression. The subject upon which he was speaking was not -one of particular interest,—an estimate of the amount of French -spoliations, by cruizers and privateers, upon the American commerce. The -heat of the room was intolerable; and after sitting till I was nearly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> -suffocated, we adjourned to the House of Representatives. On our way -thither, we crossed a very beautiful circular vestibule, which holds the -centre of the building. It was adorned with sundry memorable passages in -American history, done into pictures by Colonel Trumbull. In the House -of Representatives we were told we should hear nothing of interest, so -turned off, under Mr. ——'s escort, to the Library, which is a -comfortable well-sized room, where we looked over Audubon's Ornithology, -a beautiful work, and saw a man sitting, with his feet upon the table, -reading, which is an American fashion. Met half the New York world -there. After we had stayed there some time, we went into the House of -Representatives. The room itself is lofty and large, and very handsome, -but extremely ill-constructed for the voice, which is completely lost -among the columns, and only reaches the gallery, where listeners are -admitted, in indistinct and very unedifying murmurs. The members not -unfrequently sit with their feet upon their desks. We walked out upon -the terrace, and looked at the view of the Potomac, and the town, which, -in spite of the enlivening effect of an almost summer's sky, looked -dreary and desolate in the extreme. We then returned home. At half-past -five, we went to the theatre. We were a long time before we could -discover, among the intricate dark little passages, our own private -entrance, and were as nearly as possible being carried into the pit by a -sudden rush of spectators making their way thither: I wish we had been; -I think I should like to have seen myself very much. The theatre is -absolutely like a doll's play-house: it was completely crammed with -people. I played ill; I cannot act tragedy within half a yard of the -people in the boxes. By the by, a theatre may very easily be too small -for tragedies which is admirably adapted to comedies. In the latter -species of dramatic representations, the incidents, characters, manners, -and dresses, are, for the most part, modern,—such as we meet with, or -can easily imagine, in our own drawing-rooms, and among our own society. -There is little if any exaggeration of colouring necessary, and no great -exertion of fancy needful either in the actor or audience in executing -and witnessing such a performance. On the contrary, comedy,—high -comedy,—generally embodying the manners, tone, and spirit of the higher -classes of society, the smaller the space, consistent with ease and -grace of carriage, in which such personifications take place, the less -danger there is of the actor's departing from that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> natural, quiet, and -refined deportment and delivery, which are, in the present day, the -general characteristics of polished society. 'Tis otherwise with tragic -representations. They are unnatural, not positively, but comparatively -unnatural; the incidents are, for the most part, strange, startling, -unusual; and though they always must be within possibility, in order to -excite the sympathies of beholders,—though some of them may even be -historical facts,—yet they are, for the most part, events which come -within the probabilities of few of us, and this renders necessary a -degree of excitement and elevation in the mind of the spectator, foreign -to, and at variance with, the critical spirit of prosaic reality. Again, -the scene of a comedy is generally a drawing-room; and the smaller the -stage, the greater is the possibility of rendering it absolutely like -what we all have seen, and are daily in the habit of seeing; but to -represent groves and mountains, or lakes, or the dwellings of the kings -of the earth, satisfactorily to the spectator's mind, there must be a -certain distance observed, from which the fancy may take its stand for -the best perception of what is intended. Whereas, in closer contact with -such scenes, not only does their immediate proximity convey an -unpleasing consciousness of the unreality of the whole, but the near and -absolute detail of paint, canvass, and gilding, is obtruded in a manner -that destroys all illusion, and, by disturbing the effect of the whole -upon the spectator, necessarily weakens that part which depends solely -upon the actor. The same thing applies to dress. Foil-stone, paste, and -coloured glass, by French ingenuity have been manufactured into toys, -which, with the help of distance, may be admitted as representing the -splendours of Eastern costume, or even the glittering trappings of those -gaudy little superhumans, the fairies. But nearness utterly dissolves -the spell, and these substitutes for magnificence become palpable -impositions, and very often most ludicrous ones. I have often been -accused of studying my attitudes; but the truth is, that most things -that are presented to my imagination, instead of being mere -abstractions, immediately assume form and colour, and become pictures; -these I constantly execute on the stage as I had previously seen them in -my fancy: but as few pictures as large as life admit of being seen to -best effect immediately close to the spectator, so the whole effect -produced by a graceful attitude, fine colours, or skilful grouping on -the stage, is considerably diminished when the space is restricted, and -the audience brought too near the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span>performers. So much for little -theatres. —— came in after the play. He told us that as he was coming -out of the theatre, a Kentuckian accosted him with, "Well, what do you -think of that 'ere <i>gal</i>?"—"Oh," hesitatingly replied ——, "I don't -quite know."—"Well," retorted the questioner, "any how, I guess she's -o' some account!"</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 15th.</i></h3> - -<p>At eleven o'clock, Mr. —— called. Went with him to see the original of -the Declaration of Independence, also a few medals, for the most part -modern ones, and neither of much beauty or curiosity. Afterwards went to -the War-Office, where we saw sundry Indian properties,—bows and arrows, -canoes, smoking-pipes, and, what interested me much more, the pictures -of a great many savage chiefs, and one or two Indian women. The latter -were rather pretty: the men were not any of them handsome; scorn round -the mouth, and cunning in the eyes, seemed to be the general -characteristic of all their faces. There was a portrait of Red Jacket, -which gave me a most unpoetical low-life impression of that great -palaverer. The names of many of them delighted me,—as, <i>the Ever-awake; -the Man that stands and strikes; the North Wind</i>. One of the women's -names amused me a great deal,—<i>the Woman that spoke first</i>; which title -occasioned infinite surmise among us as to the occasion on which she -earned it. After we had done seeing what was to be seen, we went on to -the President's house, which is a comfortless handsome-looking building, -with a withered grass-plot enclosed in wooden palings in front, and a -desolate reach of uncultivated ground down to the river behind. Mr. —— -gave us a most entertaining account of the levees, or rather public -days, at the President's house. Every human being has a right to present -himself there; the consequence is, that great numbers of the very -commonest sort of people used to rush in, and follow about the servants -who carried refreshments, seizing upon whatever they could get, and -staring and pushing about, to the infinite discomfiture of the more -respectable and better-behaved part of the assembly. Indeed, the -nuisance became so great, that they discontinued the eatables, and in -great measure got rid of the crowd. Mr. —— assured me that on one of -these occasions, two <i>ladies</i> had themselves lifted up and seated on the -chimney-piece, in order to have a better view of the select -congregation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> beneath them. Mr. —— left us to go to the Capitol, and -we came home. ——, Mr. ——, and Captain —— called. We sat discussing -names; which, in this country, are certainly more ambitious than in any -other in the world.<a name="FNanchor_85_85" id="FNanchor_85_85"></a><a href="#Footnote_85_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a> Besides Captain ——'s classical family, Mr. -—— assured us that he knew of a man whose name was <i>Return Jonathan -Meigs</i>; and —— swore to one in New York called <i>Alonzo Leontes -Agamemnon Beaugardus</i>. I have myself seen a <i>Harmanus Boggs</i>, <i>Aquila -Jones</i>, and <i>Alpheus Brett</i>; but I have not been favoured with an -acquaintance with any such names as they quoted. —— appears to me -altered since I saw him in England. He was always silent, and quiet, and -gentle; but there was an air of complacency and contented cheerfulness -about him, which I think he has very much lost: he looks sad and -careworn. I was sorry to see it. After dinner, sat writing journal. Mr. -—— came in and sat some time with us. He is very clever and agreeable, -and I like him greatly.</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 16th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, went to rehearsal. At half past twelve, Mr. —— came -to ride with me. The horse he had gotten for me was base; but never -mind, the day was exquisitely mild and bright,—the sort of early -spring-feeling day, when in England the bright gold and pale delicate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> -violet of the crocus buds begin to break the rich dark mould, and the -fragrant gummy leaves of the lilac bushes open their soft brown folds. -We had a very pleasant ride through some pretty woodlands on the -opposite side of the river. At half-past five, went to the theatre. The -play was the Hunchback: the house was crowded. In the last scene, Master -Walter upbraided me thus:—</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="i12">The engineer</div> -<div>Who lays the last stone of his sea-built tower,</div> -<div>And, smiling at it, bids the winds and waves</div> -<div>To roar and whistle now—but in a night</div> -<div>Beholds the tempest sporting in its place,</div> -<div>May look <i>agash</i> as I did.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>Also in the exclamation,—</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>Fathers, make straws your children: nature's nothing,</div> -<div>Blood nothing: once in other veins it flows,</div> -<div>It no more <i>yawneth</i> for the parent flood</div> -<div>Than doth the stream that from the stream disparts.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>Mr. —— and —— came in after the play. We had a discussion as to how -far real feeling enters into our scenic performances. 'Tis hard to say: -the general question it would be impossible to answer, for acting is -altogether a monstrous anomaly. John Kemble and Mrs. Siddons were always -in earnest in what they were about; Miss O'Neill used to cry bitterly in -all her tragedy parts; whilst Garrick could be making faces and playing -tricks in the middle of his finest points, and Kean would talk gibberish -while the people were in an uproar of applause at his. In my own -individual instance, I know that sometimes I could turn every word I am -saying into burlesque (<i>never</i> Shakspeare, by the by), and at others my -heart aches, and I cry real, bitter, warm tears, as earnestly as if I -was in earnest.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 17th.</i></h3> - -<p>Sat writing journal till twelve o'clock, when we went to Mr. ——'s. -Took him up, and thence proceeded to the Presidency to be presented in -due form. His Excellency Andrew Jackson is very tall and thin, but erect -and dignified in his carriage—a good specimen of a fine old -<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span>well-battered soldier. His hair is very thick and grey: his manners are -perfectly simple and quiet, therefore very good; so are those of his -niece, Mrs. ——, who is a very pretty person, and lady of the house, -Mrs. Jackson having been dead some time. He talked about South Carolina, -and entered his protest against scribbling ladies, assuring us that the -whole of the present southern disturbances had their origin in no larger -a source than the nib of the pen of a lady. Truly, if this be true, the -lady must have scribbled to some purpose. We sat a little more than a -quarter of an hour; Mr. —— was calling at the same time.<a name="FNanchor_86_86" id="FNanchor_86_86"></a><a href="#Footnote_86_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a> We -afterwards adjourned to Mr. ——'s house.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Appointed Mr. —— to come down directly and ride with me. Drove with my -father and Mr. —— to leave cards on ——, and then walked home. The -day was bright and fine, but very cold. Habited, and at about one -o'clock Mr. —— called for me. On going to the door, I found him and -his horse, and a strange, tall, grey horse for me, and a young gentleman -of the name of ——, to whom I understood it belonged, and whom Mr. —— -introduced to me as very anxious to join my party. I was a little -startled at this, as I did not quite think Mr. —— ought to have -brought any body to ride with me without my leave. However, as I was -riding his horse, I was just as well pleased that he was by, for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> I -don't like having the responsibility of such valuable property as a -private gentleman's horse to take care of. I told him this, alleging it -as a reason for my preferring to ride an indifferent hack horse, about -which I had no such anxiety. He replied that I need have none about his. -I told him laughingly that I would give him two dollars for the hire of -it, and then I should feel quite happy; all which nonsense passed as -nonsense should, without a comment. He is a son of ——: I thought him -tolerably pleasant and well informed.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I would have a man who lived in the wretchedest corner of the earth -think his own country the first of countries; for 'tis noble and -natural, one of the most respectable instincts in the human heart. We -rode till half-past three. The horse I was upon was, Mr. —— assured -me, an English one, but he had been long enough in this world to learn -racking, and forget every other more christian pace; he tired me -dreadfully. After dinner, wrote journal till time to go to the theatre. -The play was the School for Scandal; in the fourth act of which Joseph -Surface assured me that <i>I was a plethora</i>!!!—Mr. —— came in and -supped with us after the play. He gave us a very interesting account of -a school that had been attempted to be formed in Massachusetts, for the -purpose of educating young men of the savage tribes, who were willing to -become Christians, and receive instruction. It was obliged, however, to -be given up, in consequence of several of them having fallen in love -with and married American girls, whom they took away into the woods, -many of them after they were there returning to their savage ways of -living, which must have placed their wretched Christian wives in a -horrible situation.</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 18th.</i></h3> - -<p>At eleven, Mr. —— called to take D—— and myself to the War-Office: I -wanted her to see the Indian spoils there. On our way thither, he read -us some very pretty verses which he had written upon the subject of the -"woman who spoke first." When we had seen what we wanted to see, we -returned home, and I began to habit. While doing so, received a most -comical Yankee note, signed by Mr. ——, but written, I am sure, by -Captain ——, to apprize me that the former was unwell, but that he,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> -Captain ——, would accompany me on horseback, if I pleased. The note -was exquisite. I finished dressing, and then we set off. I charged -Captain —— with the note, and he pleaded guilty,—the thing was -evident. While we were riding, Captain —— told me sundry most -exquisite native morceaux, and one thing that half-killed me with -laughing. Mr. ——'s negro servant and Mr. ——'s conversing together -about me, one asked the other if he had seen me yet at the theatre, to -which Mr. ——'s man replied, "No, sir; I have had the pleasure of -seeing Miss Kemble in private society:"—he brings my horse down every -morning for me!</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Perhaps, after all, life is worth no more than a laugh, and all its -strange mysteries of sin and suffering, its summer dreams of excellence -innate and to be acquired, its fond yearning affections, its deep -passions, its high and glorious tendings,—all but jests to make the -worldly-wise smile, and the believers in them despair. God keep me from -such thoughts!—they are dreadful!</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>After dinner, wrote journal. At half-past five, went to the theatre: the -play was the Hunchback,—the house was very good. I wonder if any body -on earth can form the slightest idea of the interior of this wretched -little theatre; 'tis the smallest I ever was in. The proprietors are -poor, the actors poorer; and the grotesque mixture of misery, vulgarity, -stage-finery, and real raggedness, is beyond every thing strange, and -sad, and revolting,—it reminds me constantly of some of Hogarth's -pictures, and passages in Goethe's Wilhelm Meister. After the play, came -home and supped. By the by, just as I had done breakfast this morning, -Judge —— called, who is the most exquisite original I have met with -even in this land of their abundance. He gave me a long scolding for -getting up so late, and assured me that I meant to settle in this -country, at the same time drawing an enchanting picture of rural -happiness to the west,—a cottage by a rivulet, with two cows, and just -enough to starve upon!—I think I see myself there. This sentimental -prophecy was prefaced by a remark that he knew I was very romantic, and -interrupted every two minutes by a dexterous expectoral interjection, -which caused me nearly to jump off my chair with dismay.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 19th.</i></h3> - -<p><i>Giorno d'orrore!</i>—but I won't anticipate. They have settled to act -Much Ado about Nothing, instead of the Inconstant. I have no clothes for -Beatrice,—but that don't matter. After breakfast, went to rehearsal, -and then walked with my father to see a very pretty model of what is to -be the town-hall. It never will be, for the corporation are as poor as -<i>Job's kittens</i> (Americanism—communicated by Captain ——), and the -city of Washington itself is only kept alive by Congress. Talking of the -city of Washington,—'tis the strangest thing by way of a town that can -be fancied. It is laid out to cover, I should think, some ten miles -square, but the houses are here, there, and no where: the streets, -conventionally not properly so called, are roads, crooked or straight, -where buildings are <i>intended</i> to be. Every now and then an interesting -gap of a quarter of a mile occurs between those houses that <i>are</i> built: -in the midst of the town, you can't help fancying you are in the -country; and between wooden palings, with nothing to be seen on either -side but cedar bushes and sand, you are informed you are in the midst of -the town. The Elysian Fields is a broken patch of moorland, sand, and -gravel: the Jardin des Plantes is a nursery-ground full of slips of -shrubs a foot and a half high; the Tiber, alias Goose Creek, is an -unhappy-looking ditch;—and Washington altogether struck me as a -rambling red-brick image of futurity, where nothing <i>is</i>, but all things -<i>are to be</i>. Came home and habited. At half-past twelve, Captain —— -came for me; just as we were going, —— called. He was on horseback, -and asked leave to join us, which I agreed to very readily. He was -pilot, and led us round and about, through the woods, and across the -waters; all of which, as Captain —— observed, was in the day's work. -We returned at half-past three. Directly after dinner, I set out to pay -sundry cards. The day had been heavenly,—bright, and warm, and balmy; -the evening was beautifully soft; and as I drove over hill and dale, -marsh and moorland, through the city of Washington, paying my cards, the -stars came out one after another in the still sky, and the scattered -lights of the town looked like a capricious congregation of -Jack-o'-lanterns, some high, some low, some here, some there, showing -more distinctly, by the dark spaces between them, the enormous share -that emptiness has in the congressional<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span> city. One of my visits lay -nearly three miles out of town, so that I was not back until six -o'clock. As I came rushing along the corridor, I met D—— coming to -meet me, who exclaimed, with an air of mingled horror and satisfaction, -"Oh, here you are!—here is coffee and Mr. —— waiting for you!" I went -into the room, and found a goodly-looking personage, old enough to know -better, sitting with my father, who appeared amazingly disturbed, held -an open letter in his hand, and exclaimed, the moment I came in, "There, -sir, there is the young lady to speak for herself." I courtesied, and -sat down. "Fanny," quoth my father, "something particularly disagreeable -has occurred,—pray, can you call to mind any thing you said during the -course of your Thursday's ride, which was likely to be offensive to Mr. -——, or any thing abusive of this country?" As I have already had -sundry specimens of the great talent there is for tattle in the -exclusive coteries of this gossiping new world, I merely untied my -bonnet, and replied, that I did not at that moment recollect a word that -I had said during my whole ride, and should certainly not give myself -any trouble to do so. "Now, my dear," said my father, his own eyes -flashing with indignation, "don't put yourself into a passion; compose -yourself, and recollect. Here is a letter I have just received." He -proceeded to read it, and the contents were to this effect—that during -my ride with Mr. —— I had said I did not choose to ride an American -gentleman's horse, and <i>had offered him two dollars for the hire of -his</i>; that moreover, I had spoken most derogatorily of America and -Americans; in consequence of all which, if my father did not give some -explanation, or make some apology to the public, I should certainly be -hissed off the stage, as soon as I appeared on it that evening. This was -pleasant. I stated the conversation as it had passed, adding, that as to -any sentiments a person might express on any subject, liberty of -opinion, and liberty of speech, were alike rights which belonged to -every body, and that, with a due regard to good feeling, and good -breeding, they were rights which nobody ought, and I never would forego. -Mr. —— opened his eyes. I longed to add, that any conversation between -me and any other person was nobody's business but mine, and his or hers, -and that the whole thing was, on the part of the young gentleman -concerned, the greatest piece of blackguardism, and on that of the old -gentleman concerned the greatest piece of twaddle, that it had ever been -my good fortune to hear of. "For," said Mr. ——, "not less than<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> -<i>fifty</i> members of Congress have already mentioned the matter to me." -Fifty old gossiping women! why the whole thing is for all the world like -a village tattle in England, among half a dozen old wives round their -tea-pots. All Washington was in dismay; and my evil deeds and evil words -were the town talk,—fields, gaps, marshes, and all, rang with them. -This is an agreeable circumstance, and a display of national character -highly entertaining and curious.<a name="FNanchor_87_87" id="FNanchor_87_87"></a><a href="#Footnote_87_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a> It gave me at the time,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span> however, a -dreadful side-ach, and nervous cough. I went to the theatre, dressed, -and came on the stage in the full expectation of being hissed off it, -which is a pleasant sensation, very, and made my heart full of -bitterness to think I should stand,—as no woman ought to stand,—the -mark of public insult. However, no such thing occurred,—I went on and -came off without any such trial of my courage; but I had been so much -annoyed, and was still so indignant, that I passed the intervals between -my scenes in crying,—which, of course, added greatly to the mirth and -spirit of my performance of Beatrice. In the middle of the play, Mr. -—— and Captain —— came behind the scenes, and then, indeed, I <i>was</i> -quite glad to see Englishmen; though their compassionate sympathies for -my wrongs, and tender fears lest I should catch cold behind those horrid -scenes, very nearly set me off crying again. A soft word, when one is in -deep commiseration of one's self, is very apt to open the flood-gates; -but I was ashamed to cry before them, so tried to keep my -heart-swellings down. When the play was over, came home. Mr. —— came -and supped with us. By the by, he called this morning before I went out -riding, and expressed many sorrows at our departure. He is a clever and -extremely well-informed man, and I like him very much. When he was gone, -sat talking over the —— affair. My father was in a greater passion -than I think I ever saw him before. I am sure I would not have warranted -one of that worthy young gentleman's bones, if he had fallen in with -him. I am very glad he did not; for, to knock a man down, even though he -does deserve it, is a serious matter rather.</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 30th, Philadelphia.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, practised for an hour: wrote journal. Mr. ——, the -wild-eyed, flowing-haired, white-waistcoated, velvet-collared, —— —— -called upon me. He sat some time asking me questions; but, since the -—— affair, I have grown rather afraid of opening my mouth, and he had -the conversation chiefly to himself. Finished journal; dined at -half-past three: after dinner, went and sat with Mrs. ——. One Mr. -——, a Boston man who was at Mrs. ——'s ball last night, was in her -room. I was introduced to him, and he spoke of the ——s.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span></p><p>Sat with them till coffee-time. Went to the theatre at half-past five. -It poured with rain, in spite of which the house was very good: the play -was Fazio. When I came on in my fine dress, at the beginning of the -second act, the people hailed me with such a tremendous burst of -applause, and prolonged it so much, that I was greatly puzzled to -imagine what on earth possessed them. I concluded they were pleased with -my dress, but could not help being rather amused at their vehement and -continued clapping, considering they had seen it several times before. -However, they ceased at last, and I thought no more about it. Towards -the time for the beginning of the third act, which opens with my being -discovered waiting for Fazio's return, as I was sitting in my -dressing-room working, D—— suddenly exclaimed, "Hark!—what is that?" -—— opened the door, and we heard a tremendous noise of shouts and of -applause. "They are waiting for you, certainly," said D——. She ran -out, and returned, saying, "The stage is certainly waiting for you, -Fanny, for the curtain is up." I rushed out of the room; but on opening -the door leading to the stage, I distinctly heard my father's voice -addressing the audience. I turned sick with a sort of indefinite -apprehension, and on enquiry found that at the beginning of the play a -number of handbills had been thrown into the pit, professing to quote my -conversation with Mr. —— at Washington, and calling upon the people to -resent my conduct in the grossest and most vulgar terms. This precious -document had, it seems, been brought round by somebody to my father, who -immediately went on with it in his hand, and assured the audience that -the whole thing was a falsehood. I scarce heard what he said, though I -stood at the side scene: I was crying dreadfully with fright and -indignation. How I wished I was a caterpillar under a green -gooseberry-bush!</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Oh, how I did wince to think of going on again after this scene, though -the feeling of the audience was most evident; for all the applause I had -fancied they bestowed upon my dress was, in fact, an unsolicited -testimony of their disbelief in the accusation brought against me. They -received my father's words with acclamations; and when the curtain drew -up, and I was discovered, the pit rose and waved their hats, and the -applause was tremendous. I was crying dreadfully, and could<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> hardly -speak; however, I mastered myself and went on with my part,—though, -what with the dreadful exertion that it is in itself, and the painful -excitement I had just undergone, I thought I should have fainted before -I got through with it.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, Feb. 2d.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, —— called to see how I did after my walk: he sat for -some time. At twelve, went out paying bills and calls; bought a German -æolina; sat some time with old Mrs. ——, and spent a delightful hour -with Mr. —— and his family. He is a most agreeable person, but he -thinks too well of acting. Came home; dined at three; Mr. and Mrs. —— -dined with us. After dinner, went into her room, and remained there till -time to go to the theatre. Young —— and Dr. —— came in. The play was -the Gamester: it was my benefit, and I am afraid the good folks who -addressed that amiable placard to the public will have been rather ill -satisfied with their suggestion about my benefit. The house was -literally crammed, in consequence of that very circumstance,—crammed is -the word. When the curtain drew up, they applauded me without end, and I -courtesied as profoundly as I was able; indeed, I am extremely obliged -to this same excellent public, for they have testified most -satisfactorily every way the kindest feeling possible for me, and the -most entire faith in my good behaviour. I did not play well, my voice -was so dreadfully affected by my cough.</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 4th.</i></h3> - -<p>Dined at three. After dinner, Mrs. —— came into our room, where I sang -and played till time to go to the theatre. The play was the Merchant of -Venice, and Katharine and Petruchio for the farce;—my father's benefit: -the house was crammed from floor to ceiling, as full as it could hold: -so much for the success of the hand-bills. Indeed, as somebody -suggested, I think if we could find the author of that placard out we -are bound to give him a handsome reward, for he certainly has given us -two of the finest benefits that ever were seen. I heard that a man said -the other day that he should not be surprised if <i>my father had got the -whole of this up himself</i>. Oh, day and night! that such thoughts<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> should -come into any human being's head.<a name="FNanchor_88_88" id="FNanchor_88_88"></a><a href="#Footnote_88_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a> At the end, the people shouted and -shrieked for us. He went on, and made them a speech, and I went on and -made them a courtesy; and certainly they do deserve the civillest of -speeches, and lowest of courtesies from us, for they have behaved most -kindly and courteously to us; and, for mine own good part, I love the -whole city of Philadelphia from this time forth, for evermore.<a name="FNanchor_89_89" id="FNanchor_89_89"></a><a href="#Footnote_89_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a></p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span></p><p>Mr. —— came round to the stage door to bid us good-night; and as we -drove off, a whole parcel of folk, who had gathered round the door to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> -see us depart, set up a universal hurrah! How strange a thing it is, -that popular shout. After all, Pitt or Canning could get no more for the -finest oratory that human lips ever uttered, or the wisest policy that -human brain ever devised. Sometimes they got the reverse; but then the -<i>hereafter</i>—there's the rub! Praise is so sweet to me that I would have -it lasting: above all, I would wish to feel that I deserved it. I must -do so if I am to value it a straw; and acting, even the best that ever -was seen, is, to my mind, but a poor claim to approbation. I think the -applause of an audience in a play-house should be reckoned with the -friendly and favourable opinions of a good-natured tipsy man,—'tis -given under excitement. Oh Lord! how unsatisfactory all things are!</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 13th, New York.</i></h3> - -<p>After dinner, —— came in. He sat himself down, and presently was -over-head in reminiscences. His account of Tom Paine's escape from the -Conciergerie, on the eve of being guillotined, was extremely -interesting. His own introduction to, and subsequent acquaintance with, -that worthy, was equally so, and his summing up was highly -characteristic. "I tell ye, madam, the saving of that man's life was an -especial providence, that he might come over to this country, where his -works have done so much harm, and might have done so much more, and just -exemplify the result of his own principles put into practice in his own -person, and show that the glorious light of reason, and the noble -natural gifts of man, of which he preached so much, would neither -prevent a man's becoming a drunkard and a spendthrift, nor a debased -degraded being. If Paine had been guillotined, madam, he would have been -a martyr, and his works would have had ten times the power of evil they -had before. But he lived to be a miserable low unthrift, and sot, and -died neglected and despised by all reputable and respectable -individuals, and, I say again, it was a manifest providence that he did -so." We left the gentlemen to their wine for a short time, but were -presently summoned back.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> —— had gone to the theatre. —— began his -history to me, and it was, word for word, a repetition of Galt's book, -except that occasionally it was more touching. The pity of all this is, -the man's own consciousness that he is a lion. His vanity is almost as -amusing as his recollections are curious and interesting; and though the -tears were in my eye several times while he described the blessed time -he lived with his sweet Phœbe, yet, at others, I could scarce help -exclaiming, in the words of his own countryman, "Heigh, cretur, cretur! -thou hast unco plause o' thysel'!" He ended his narrative with a eulogy -of women that would have warmed the heart of a stone; and to my utter -surprise addressed Mr. —— with, "Out upon ye, bachelors, all! ye throw -away your lives, and your life's happiness!" This last attack of ——'s -seemed too much for Mr. ——; and, as I turned to him with the tears in -my eyes, to desire he would not laugh, which he was doing very heartily, -he said he couldn't stand it any longer, and went away, apparently more -amused than edified by ——'s appeal.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 14th.</i></h3> - -<p>St. Valentine's day! I wish all these pretty golden days, which, like -the flowers in the sundial of Linnæus, were wont so gaily to mark the -flight of time, were not becoming so dim in our calendars; I wish St. -Valentine's day, and May morning, and Christmas day, and New-Year's day, -were not putting off their holiday suits to wear the work-day russet of -their drudging fellows; I wish we were not making all things, of all -sorts, so completely of a neutral tint.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I wouldn't be in the Reform Parliament of England for ten thousand -pounds! ——, and ——, the bruiser, and the bankrupt! Oh, shame, -England, shame!—Poor England!</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="center">A RHAPSODY.</div></div> -<div class="stanza"><div class="i2">White lady, sitting on the sea,</div> -<div class="i2">Tell to me, oh, tell to me,</div> -<div class="i2">How long shall thy reigning be,</div> -<div class="i2">White lady, sitting on the sea?</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>Long as the oak with which I'm crown'd</div> -<div>Shall bear one leaf above the ground,</div> -<div><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span>Round which the crawling ivy's grasp</div> -<div>Its cursed tendrils does not clasp;</div> -<div>Long as one foot remains to stand</div> -<div>Firm on its own ancestral land;</div> -<div>Or one true man be left to claim</div> -<div>The burden of a noble name;</div> -<div>Long as one Gothic shrine shall rise</div> -<div>With 'scutcheon'd tomb, and banner'd stall,</div> -<div>Or the blest glances of the skies,</div> -<div>Through storied casements dimly fall;</div> -<div>Long as one heart shall beat to hear</div> -<div>Legends of the old valiant time;</div> -<div>Long as the Sabbath wind shall bear</div> -<div>The music of one haunting chime.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div class="i2">White lady, sitting on the sea,</div> -<div class="i2">Tell to me, oh, tell to me,</div> -<div class="i2">When shall thy downfalling be,</div> -<div class="i2">White lady, sitting on the sea?</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>When the vile kennel mud is thrown</div> -<div>Upon the ermine of the king,</div> -<div>And the old worships are cast down</div> -<div>Before a rabble's triumphing;</div> -<div>When toothless —— is young again,</div> -<div>To do the mischief he but dreams,</div> -<div>And little —— shall make more plain</div> -<div>The good that glitters through his schemes;</div> -<div>When the steam-engine of the north</div> -<div>Leaves making essays and wry faces;</div> -<div>And patriot Whigs forget the worth</div> -<div>Of pensions, power, pride, and places;</div> -<div>When on the spot where Burke and Pitt</div> -<div>Earn'd their high immortality,</div> -<div>Boxers and bankrupts boldly sit,</div> -<div>Then, then shall my downfalling be.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 18th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, went to rehearsal; came home and stitched at my -<i>Françoise de Foix</i> head-dress. My father is extremely unwell; I scarce -think he will be able to get through his part to-night. After dinner, -practised, and read a canto in Dante. It pleases me, when I refer to -Biagioli's notes, to find that the very lines Alfieri has noted are -those under which I have drawn my emphatic pencil marks. At half-past -five, went to the theatre. The play was Macbeth, for my benefit: the -house was very full, and I played very ill. My father was dreadfully -exhausted by his work. I had an interesting discussion with Mr. -—— about the costume and acting of the witches in this awful play. I -should like to see them acted and dressed a little more like what they -should be, than they generally are. It has been always -customary,—Heaven only knows why,—to make low comedians act the -witches, and to dress them like old fish-women. Instead of the wild -unearthly appearance which Banquo describes, and which belongs to their -most terrible and grotesquely poetical existence and surroundings, we -have three jolly-faced fellows,—whom we are accustomed to laugh at, -night after night, in every farce on the stage,—with as due a -proportion of petticoats as any woman, letting alone witch, might -desire, jocose red faces, peaked hats, and broomsticks, which last -addition alone makes their costume different from that of Moll Flagon. -If I had the casting of Macbeth, I would give the witches to the first -melo-dramatic actors on the stage,—such men as T. P. Cooke, and O. -Smith, who understand all that belongs to picturesque devilry to -perfection,—and give them such dresses as, without ceasing to be -grotesque, should be a little more fanciful, and less ridiculous than -the established livery; something that would accord a little better with -the blasted heath, the dark fungus-grown wood, the desolate misty -hill-side, and the flickering light of the caldron cave.<a name="FNanchor_90_90" id="FNanchor_90_90"></a><a href="#Footnote_90_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 20th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, —— and Mr. —— came. —— gave me the words and tune -of a bewitching old English ballad. Mr. —— called and sat some time -with me: I like him mainly,—he's very pleasant and clever. That -handsome creature, Mme. ——, called with her daughter and her -son-in-law. Mr. —— and —— dined with us. After dinner, came to my -own room, sang over ——'s ballad, and amused myself with writing one of -my own. At half-past five, took coffee, and off to the theatre. The -house was very full; play, the Stranger: I didn't play well: I'd a gown -on that did not fit me, to which species of accident our <i>art</i> is -marvellously subservient, for a tight arm-hole shall mar the grandest -passage in Queen Constance, and too long or too short a skirt keep one's -heart cold in the balcony scene in Juliet. Came home; supped; finished -marking the Winter's Tale. What a dense fool that fat old Johnson must -have been in matters of poetry! his notes upon Shakspeare make one -swear, and his summing up of the Winter's Tale is worthy of a newspaper -critic of the present day,—in spirit, I mean, not language; Dr. Johnson -always wrote good English.—What dry, and sapless, and dusty earth his -soul must have been made of, poor fat man! After all, 'tis even a -greater misfortune than fault to be so incapable of beauty.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="center">BALLAD.</div></div> -<div class="stanza"><div>The Lord's son stood at the clear spring head,</div> -<div class="i1">The May on the other side,</div> -<div>"And stretch me your lily hand," he said,</div> -<div class="i1">"For I must mount and ride.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>"And waft me a kiss across the brook,</div> -<div class="i1">And a curl of your yellow hair;</div> -<div>Come summer or winter, I ne'er shall look</div> -<div class="i1">Again on your eyes so fair.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>"Bring me my coal-black steed, my squire,</div> -<div class="i1">Bring Fleetfoot forth!" he cried;</div> -<div>"For three-score miles he must not tire,</div> -<div class="i1">To bear me to my bride.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>"His foot must be swift, though my heart be slow;</div> -<div class="i1">He carries me towards my sorrow;</div> -<div>To the Earl's proud daughter I made my vow,</div> -<div class="i1">And I must wed her to-morrow."</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>The Lord's son stood at the altar stone,—</div> -<div class="i1">The Earl's proud daughter near:</div> -<div>"And what is that ring you have gotten on,</div> -<div class="i1">That you kiss so oft and so dear?</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>"Is it a ring of the yellow gold,</div> -<div class="i1">Or something more precious and bright?</div> -<div class="i1">Give me that ring in my hand to hold,</div> -<div class="i1">Or I plight ye no troth to-night."</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>"It is not a ring of the yellow gold,</div> -<div class="i1">But something more precious and bright;</div> -<div>But never shall hand, save my hand, hold</div> -<div class="i1">This ring by day or night."</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>"And now I am your wedded wife,</div> -<div class="i1">Give me the ring, I pray."—</div> -<div>"You may take my lands, you may take my life,</div> -<div class="i1">But never this ring away."</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span>They sat at the board; and the lady bride</div> -<div class="i1">Red wine in a goblet pour'd;</div> -<div>"And pledge me a health, sweet sir," she cried,</div> -<div class="i1">"My husband and my lord."</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>The cup to his lips he had scarcely press'd,</div> -<div class="i1">When he gasping drew his breath,</div> -<div>His head sank down on his heaving breast,</div> -<div class="i1">And he said, "It is death! it is death!—</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>"Oh bury me under the gay green shaw</div> -<div class="i1">By the brook, 'neath the heathery sod,</div> -<div>Where last her blessed eyes I saw,</div> -<div class="i1">Where her blessed feet last trod!"</div> -</div></div></div> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 23d.</i></h3> - -<p>We came home at two. —— and the horses were waiting for me: we mounted -and rode down to the Hoboken ferry, where we crossed. The day was like -an early day in spring in England; a day when the almond trees would all -have been in flower, the hawthorn hedges putting forth their tender -green and brown shoots, and the primroses gemming the mossy roots of the -trees by the water-courses. The spring is backwarder here a good deal -than with us: to be sure, it is sudden compared with ours,—as my -poetising friend hath it,—</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>"Not with slow steps, in smiles, in tears advancing,</div> -<div>But with a bound, like Indian girls in dancing."</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>I do not like this: I like to linger over the sweet hourly and daily -fufilment of hope, which the slow progress of vegetation in my own dear -country allows one full enjoyment of; to watch the leaf from the bark, -the blossom from the bud; the delicate, pale-white, peeping heads of the -hawthorn, to the fragrant, snowy, delicious flush of flowering; the -downy green clusters of small round buds on the apple trees, to the -exquisite rosy-tinted clouds of soft blossoms waving against an evening -sky. The melted snow had made the roads all but impassable; however, the -day was delightfully mild and sunny, and therefore we did not get -chilled by the very temperate rate at which we were obliged to proceed. -We turned off to look at the Turtle Pavilion, and, pursuing the water's -edge,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> got up upon a species of high dyke between some marshes that open -into the river. Our path, however, was presently intercepted by a stile, -and as the horses were not quite of the sort one could have risked a -leap with, —— got off and endeavoured to lead his charger round the -edge of the steep bank, but the brute refused that road, and we were -forced to turn back; and, after floundering about over some of the -roughest worst ground imaginable, we e'en went out of the Hoboken domain -at the gate where we entered, and pursued that beautiful road -overlooking the Hudson, under that fine range of cliffs which are the -first idea, as it were, of the Palisadoes. We took the lower road down -into the glen below Weehawk. The sun shone gloriously: the little fairy -stream that owns this narrow glade was singing and dancing along its -beautiful domain with a sweet gleesome voice, and a succession of little -sparkling breaks and eddies that looked like laughter. We left the muddy -road, and turned our horses into the stream; but its bed was very stony -and uneven, and we were obliged to turn out of it again. We rode like -very impudent persons up to the house on the height. The house itself is -too unsheltered for comfort either in summer or winter, but the view -from its site is beautiful, and we had it in perfection to-day. Standing -at an elevation of more than a hundred feet from the river, we looked -down its magnificent, broad, silvery avenue, to the Narrows—that rocky -gate that opens towards my home. New York lay bright and distinct on the -opposite shore, glittering like a heap of toys in the sunny distance: -the water towards Sandy Hook was studded with sails; and far up on the -other side the river rolled away among shores that, even in this wintry -time of bare trees and barren earth, looked gay and lovely in the -sunshine. We turned down again; but after crossing the bridge over the -pretty brook, we took an upper path to the right, and riding through -some leafless, warm, sunny woodlands, joined the road that leads to the -Weehawken height, and so returned to New York. On our way, discussing -the difference between religion as felt by men and women, —— agreed -with me, that hardly one man out of five thousand held any distinct -entire and definite religious belief. He said that religion was a -sentiment, and that, as regarded all creeds, there was no midway with -them; that faith or utter disbelief were the only alternatives; for that -displacing one jot of any of them made the whole totter,—which last is, -in some measure, true, but I do not think it is true that religion is -<i>only</i> a sentiment. There<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> are many reasons why women are more religious -than men. Our minds are not generally naturally analytical—our -education tends to render them still less so: 'tis seldom in a woman's -desire (because seldom in her capacity) to investigate the abstract -bearings of any metaphysical subject. Our imaginations are exceedingly -sensitive, our subservience to early impressions, and exterior forms, -proportionate; and our habits of thought, little enlarged by experience, -observation, or proper culture, render us utterly incapable of almost -any logical train of reasonings. With us, I think, therefore, faith is -the only secure hold; for disbelief, acting upon mental constructions so -faulty and weak, would probably engender insanity, or a thousand species -of vague, wild, and mischievous enthusiasms.<a name="FNanchor_91_91" id="FNanchor_91_91"></a><a href="#Footnote_91_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a> I believe, too, that -women are more religious than men, because they have warmer and deeper -affections. There is nothing surely on earth that can satisfy and -utterly fulfil the capacity for loving which exists in every woman's -nature. Even when her situation in life is such as to call forth and -constantly keep in exercise the best affections of her heart,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> as a -wife, and a mother, it still seems to me as if more would be wanting to -fill the measure of yearning tenderness, which, like an eternal -fountain, gushes up in every woman's heart; therefore I think it is that -we turn, in the plenitude of our affections, to that belief which is a -religion of love, and where the broadest channel is open to receive the -devotedness, the clinging, the confiding trustfulness, which are -idolatry when spent upon creatures like ourselves, but become a holy -worship when offered to Heaven.<a name="FNanchor_92_92" id="FNanchor_92_92"></a><a href="#Footnote_92_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a> Nor is it only from the abundance -and overflowing of our affections that we are devout; 'tis not only from -our capacity of loving, but also from our capacity of suffering, that -our piety springs. Woman's physical existence, compared with that of -man, is one of incessant endurance. This in itself begets a necessity -for patience, a seeking after strength, a holding forth of the hands for -support; thus, the fragile frame, the loving heart, and the ignorant -mind, are in us sources of religious faith. But it often happens that -those affections, so strong, so deep, so making up the sum and substance -of female existence, instead of being happily employed, as I have -supposed above, are converted into springs of acute suffering. These -wells of feeling hidden in the soul, upon whose surface the slightest -smile of affection falls like sunlight, but whose very depths are -stirred by the breath of unkindness, are too often un-visited by the -kindly influence of kindred sympathies, and go wearing their own -channels deeper, in silence and in secrecy, and in infinite -bitterness,—undermining health, happiness, the joy of life, and making -existence one succession of burden-bearing days, and toilsome, aching, -heavy hours. It is in this species of blight, which falls upon many -women, that any religious faith becomes a refuge and a consolation, more -especially that merciful and compassionate faith whose words are, "Come -unto me, all ye that labour and are heavy laden, and I will give you -rest." To that rest betakes itself the wearied spirit, the wounded -heart; and it becomes a blessing beyond all other blessings; a source of -patience, of fortitude, of hope, of strength, of endurance; a shelter in -the scorching land,—a spring of water in the wilderness.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, April 13th.</i></h3> - -<p>At a quarter after four, drove down to the boat. —— was waiting to see -us off, and —— presently made his appearance to see us on. Owing to -the yesterday's boat not having sailed, it was crowded to-day, and -freighted most heavily, so as to draw an unusual quantity of water, and -proceed at a much slower rate than common. At a few minutes after five, -the huge brazen bell on deck began to toll; the mingled crowd jostled, -and pushed, and rolled about; the loiterers on shore rushed on board; -the bidders-farewell on board rushed on shore; D—— and I took a quiet -sunny stand, away from all the confusion, and watched from our floating -palace New York glide away like a glittering dream from before us. A -floating palace indeed it was, in size and in magnificence: I never saw -any thing to compare with the beauty, and comfort, and largeness of all -its accommodations. Our Scotch steam-boat, the United Kingdom, is a -cockboat to it, and even the splendid Hudson boat, the North America, is -far inferior to it in every respect, except, I believe, swiftness,—but -then these Boston boats have sometimes very heavy sea to go through.<a name="FNanchor_93_93" id="FNanchor_93_93"></a><a href="#Footnote_93_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a> -Besides the ladies' cabin, this boat is furnished with half a dozen -state rooms, taken from the upper deck,—an inexpressible luxury. Into -one of these our night-bags were conveyed, and we returned to the deck -to watch the sun down. A strong and piercing wind blew over the waters, -and almost cut me in half as I stood watching the shores, which I did -not wish to lose by going in. However, I might have done so, and lost -but little; for after passing Hell-gate, where the rocks<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span> in the river -and the banks have rather a picturesque appearance, there was neither -form nor comeliness in the flat wearisome land to either side; and the -only objects which detained me on deck were the bright blue waters -themselves, all shining in the sunset, and those lovely little boats, -with one mast and two glittering sails, scudding past us like fairy -craft upon the burnished waves. At about eight, we were summoned down to -tea, which was a compound meal of tea and supper. The company were so -numerous that they were obliged to lay the table twice. We waited till -the crowd had devoured their feed, and had ours in comparative peace and -quiet. An excellent man, by name ——, an officer in the American army, -made himself known to me, considering, as he afterwards told me, his -commission to be a sufficient right of introduction to any body. He was -a native of Boston, and was returning to it, after an absence of -<i>fourteen years</i>.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 14th.</i></h3> - -<p>The morning was beautifully bright and clear. While dressing, heard the -breakfast-bell, and received sundry intimations to descend and eat; -however, I declined leaving my cabin until I had done dressing, which I -achieved very comfortably at leisure, during which time the ship -weathered Point Judith, where the Atlantic comes in to the shore between -the termination of Long Island and the southern extremity of Rhode -Island. The water is generally rough here, and I had been prophesied an -agreeable little fit of sea-sickness; but no such matter,—we passed it -very smoothly, and presently stopped at Newport, on Rhode Island, to -leave and take up passengers. The wind was keen and bracing; the morning -beautifully bright and sunny; the blue waters, all curled and crisped -under the arrow-like wind, broke into a thousand sapphire ridges tipped -with silver foam, that drove away in sparkling showers before the bitter -breath of the north. We entered Providence river in a few moments, and -steamed along between Rhode Island and the main land, until we reached -Providence, a town on the shore of Rhode Island, where we were to leave -the boat, and pursue our route by coach to Boston. I walked on deck with -Captain —— for an hour after breakfast, breasting the wind, which -almost drove us back each<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> time we turned up the deck towards the prow. -After my walk, went in, righted my hair, which the wind had dressed <i>à -la frantic</i>, and came and sat in the sun with Brewster's book,—which I -like mainly,—till we reached Providence. The boat was so heavily laden -that she drew an enormous quantity of water, and was fairly aground -once, as we were nearing the pier. When the crowd of passengers had -ebbed away, and we had seen them pack themselves into their stages and -drive off, we adjourned to our exclusive extra, which, to our great -sorrow, could not take all our luggage after all. The distance from -Providence to Boston is forty miles; but we were six hours and a half -doing it over an excellent road. The weather was beautiful, but the -country still sad and wintry-looking. The spring is backwarder here than -in New York by full three weeks: the trees were all bare and leafless, -except the withered foliage of the black oaks; and the face of the -country, with its monotonous rises, and brooks flowing through flat -fields, reminded me of parts of Cumberland. Every now and then, however, -we came to a little lakelet, or, as they call them here, pond, of the -holiest deepest dark-blue water, sparkling like a magic sapphire, -against smooth, bright, golden, sandy shores, and screened by vivid -thickets of cedar bushes. They were like little bits of fairy-land, and -relieved the wearisomeness of the road. As we approached Boston, the -country assumed a more cultivated aspect,—the houses in the road-side -villages were remarkably neat, and pretty, and cottage-like,—the land -was well farmed; and the careful cultivation, and stone walls, which -perform the part of hedges here, together with the bleak look of the -distances on each side, made me think of Scotland. We entered Boston -through a long road with houses on each side, making one fancy one's -self in the town long before one reaches it. We did not arrive until -half-past six. Went to my own room and dressed for dinner. When I came -to the drawing-room, found the ——s: dear —— was half crazy at seeing -us again. After dinner, came to my room with her, and righted all my -clothes, and established myself; after tea, returned to the same work, -and, at about half-past ten, came to bed. Here we are in a new -place!—How desolate and cheerless this constant changing of homes is! -the Scripture saith, "There is no rest to the wicked;" and truly I never -felt so convinced of my own wickedness as I have done since I have been -in this country.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 15th.</i></h3> - -<p>Went over to the theatre to rehearse Fazio. Mr. ——, however, met us at -the door, and assured me there was no necessity for my doing so till -to-morrow. —— came early to see me, and stayed all the morning. Mr. -—— called this morning,—I was quite glad to see him,—and Mrs. ——, -whom I thought beautiful. Tried to finish letter to ——, but was -interrupted about a dozen times. At about half-past four, the horses -came to the door. The afternoon was lovely, and the roads remarkably -good: I had a fine handsome spirited horse, who pulled my hands to -pieces for want of being properly curbed. We rode out to <i>Cambridge</i>, -the University of Massachusetts, about three miles distant from Boston. -The village round it, with its white cottages, and meeting roads, and -the green lawns and trees round the college, reminded me of England. We -rode on to a place called Mount Auburn, a burial-ground which the -Bostonians take great pride in, and which is one of the lions of the -place. The entrance is a fine solid granite gateway, in a species of -<i>Egyptian</i> style, with this inscription engraved over it: "Then shall -the dust return to the earth as it was, and the spirit shall return unto -God, who gave it."<a name="FNanchor_94_94" id="FNanchor_94_94"></a><a href="#Footnote_94_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a> The whole place is at present in an unfinished -state, but its capabilities are very great, and, as far as it has -progressed, they have been taken every advantage of. The enclosure is of -considerable extent,—about one hundred acres,—and contains several -high hills and deep ravines, in the bottom of which are dark, still, -melancholy-looking meres. The whole is cut, with much skill and good -taste, by roads for carriages, and small narrow footpaths. The various -avenues are distinguished by the names of trees, as, Linden<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> walk, Pine -walk, Beech walk; and already two or three white monuments are seen -glimmering palely through the woods, reminding one of the solemn use to -which this ground is consecrated, which, for its beauty, might seem a -pleasure-garden instead of a place of graves. Mr. —— delighted me very -much: he told me he was looking for a plot of earth in this cemetery -which he intended to dedicate to poor English people, who might come out -here, and die without the means of being decently laid to rest. We -looked, with this view, at a patch of ground on the slope of a high -hill, well shadowed over with trees, and descending to a great depth to -a dark pond, shining in the hollow like an emerald. 'Twas sad and -touching to gaze at that earth, with the thought that amidst strangers, -and in a strange land, the pity of a fellow-countryman should here allot -to his brethren a grave in the quiet and solemn beauty of this hallowed -ground. Our time was limited; so, after lingering for a short space -along the narrow pathways that wind among dwellings of the dead, we rode -home. We reached Boston at a quarter to seven. My father and D—— were -already gone to the theatre. I dressed, and went over myself -immediately. The play was begun: the house was not very full. The -managers have committed the greatest piece of mismanagement -imaginable,—they advertise my father alone in Hamlet to-night, and -instead of making me play alone to-morrow night, and so securing our -attraction singly before we act together, we are <i>both</i> to act to-morrow -in Fazio, which circumstance, of course, kept the house thin to-night. -My father's Hamlet is very beautiful. 'Tis curious, that when I see him -act I have none of the absolute feeling of contempt for the profession -that I have while acting myself. What he does appears, indeed, like the -work of an artist; and though I always lament that he loves it as he -does, and has devoted so much care and labour to it as he has, yet I -certainly respect acting more while I am seeing him act than at any -other time.<a name="FNanchor_95_95" id="FNanchor_95_95"></a><a href="#Footnote_95_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a> Yet surely, after all, acting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> is nonsense, and as I sit -here opposite the churchyard, it seems to me strange to think, that when -I come down into that darkness, I shall have eaten bread, during my -life, earned by such means. The Ophelia was perfectly beautiful: I think -I scarcely ever saw a more faultless piece of mortality in point of -outward loveliness. The eyes and brow of an angel, serene and calm, yet -bright and piercing; a mouth chiselled like a Grecian piece of -sculpture, with an expression of infinite refinement; fair round arms -and hands, a beautifully-moulded foot, and a figure that seemed to me -perfectly proportioned. It did not perhaps convey to me the idea of such -absolute loveliness as ——'s figure did; but altogether I think I never -saw a fairer woman—it was delightful lo look at her.<a name="FNanchor_96_96" id="FNanchor_96_96"></a><a href="#Footnote_96_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a> The audience -are, upon the whole, cold;—very still and attentive, however, and when -they do warm, it is certainly very effectually, for they shout and -hurrah like mad.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 27th.</i></h3> - -<p>Somebody very civilly has sent me that beautiful book, Rogers's Italy: -it set me wild again with my old frenzy for the south of Europe.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> Wrote -to ——; after dinner, practised for an hour; at half-past five, off to -the theatre. The house was crammed: the play, the Stranger. It is quite -comical to see the people in the morning at the box-office: our window -is opposite to it, and 'tis a matter of the greatest amusement to me to -watch them. They collect in crowds for upwards of an hour before the -doors open, and when the bolts are withdrawn, there is a yelling and -shouting as though the town were on fire. In they rush, thumping and -pummelling one another, and not one comes out without rubbing his head, -or his back, or showing a piteous rent in his clothes. I was surprised -to see men of a very low order pressing foremost to obtain boxes, but I -find that they sell them again at an enormous increase to others who -have not been able to obtain any; and, the better to carry on their -traffic, these worthies smear their clothes with molasses, and sugar, -etc., in order to prevent any person of more decent appearance, or whose -clothes are worth a cent, from coming near the box-office: this is -ingenious, and deserves a reward. Our other window looks out upon a -large churchyard, in the midst of which stands a cenotaph, erected by -Franklin in honour of his father. Between the view of the play-house, -and the view of the burial-ground, my contemplations are curiously -tinged. This house (the Tremont) is admirably quiet and comfortable.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 18th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, went to rehearsal,—the School for Scandal,—however, -half the people were not there, so the rehearsal was nought. Came home, -and at half-past eleven rode out; the day was beautifully bright: we -rode to a beautiful little mere, called Jamaica Pond, through some -country very like Scotland. We turned from the road into a gentleman's -estate, and rode up a green rise into an enclosed field, which commanded -an extensive view of the country below. But the spring tarries still, -and though her smile is in the sky, the trees are leafless, and -blossomless, and wintry-looking still. We came in by a pretty village -called Roxbury, about two miles and a half distant from Boston: here we -stopped to get a nosegay for my Lady Teazle, at a very pretty -green-house, kept by a mechanic, who has devoted his leisure hours to -the pleasurable and profitable pursuits of gardening. We returned to -town at about half-past two. I ran into the drawing-room, and found —— -sitting with my father.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 20th.</i></h3> - -<p>Walked up to the State House. The day was any thing but agreeable; a -tremendous high wind (easterly of course,—'tis the only wind they have -in Boston), and a burning sun tempered only by clouds of dust, in which, -every two minutes, the whole world,—at least, as much as we could see -of it,—was shrouded. On entering the hall of the State House, we -confronted Chantry's statue of Washington, which stands in a recess -immediately opposite the entrance. I saw that, how many years ago, in -his study at Pimlico! We proceeded to mount into the cupola, whence a -very extensive view is obtained of the city and its surroundings,—and a -cruel height it was! I began it at full speed, like a wise woman, but -before I got to the top was so out of breath, that I could hardly -breathe at all: defend me from such altitudes!—and, after all, the day -was hazy and not favourable for our purpose; the wind came in through -the windows of the lantern like a tornado; and, as my father observed, -after the exertion of ascending, 'twas the very best place in the world -for catching one's death of cold. We came down as quickly as we could. -At about twelve, we rode to Mount Auburn. The few days of sunshine since -we were last there have clothed the whole earth with delicate purple and -white blossoms, a little resembling the wood anemone, but growing close -to the soil, and making one think of violets with their pale purple -colour: they have no fragrance whatever. We afterwards rode on to a -beautiful little lake called Fresh Pond, along whose margin we followed -a pretty woody path: a high bank covered with black-looking pines rose -immediately on our right, and on our left the clear waters of the -rippling lake came dancing to and fro along the pebbly shore, which -shone bright and golden under their crystal folds. We stood with our -hats off to receive the soft wind upon our brows, and to listen to the -chiming of the water upon the beach, the most delicious sound in all -nature's orchestra. We then turned back and rode home. By the by, on our -way out to Mount Auburn we took the Charleston road, and rode over -Bunker Hill. They have begun a monument upon the spot where General -Warren was killed, to commemorate the event. I felt strangely as I rode -over that ground. Mr. —— was the only <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span>American of our party, but, -though in the minority, he had rather the best of it. And this is where -so much English blood was shed, thought I; for, after all, 'twas all -English blood,—do as they can, they can never get rid of their stock; -and deeply as oppression and resistance have dug the grave in which all -kindred feeling seems for a time to have been buried,—'tis only, I -believe and trust, for a time,—buried in blood and fierce warfare, to -spring up again in peace and mutual respect. England and America ought -not to be enemies, 'tis unnatural while the same language is spoken in -both lands. Until Americans have found a tongue for themselves, they -must still be the children of old England, for they speak the words her -children speak by the fireside of her homes. Oh, England! noble, noble -land! They may be proud of many things, these inheritors of a new world, -but of nothing more than that they are descended from Englishmen; that -their fathers once trod the soil whereon has grown more goodness, more -greatness, more beauty, and more truth, than on any other earth under -God's sun.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>At half-past four, we went to dine with the ——s. Their house is very -pretty and comfortable. When first we went in, we were shown into a -couple of drawing-rooms, in which there were beautiful marble copies of -one or two of the famous statues. One of Canova's dancing girls, the -glorious Diana, a reclining figure of Cleopatra, an exquisite -thing,—the crouching Venus, and the lovely antique Cupid and Psyche.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>'Tis strange that feelings should pass from our hearts and minds as -clouds pass from the face of heaven, as though they had never been -there;—yet not so, after all; they do not pass so tracklessly,—they do -leave faint shadows behind; they leave a darker colour upon the face of -all existence: sometimes they leave a sad conviction of wasted -capabilities, and time, precious time, expended in vain. Yet not in -vain: even though our feelings change,—pass, perhaps, to our own -consciousness—cease altogether,—'tis not in vain—life is going -on—experience and solemn wisdom may come with the coming time; and -existence is, after all, but a series of experiments upon our spiritual -nature. Our trials vary with our years; and though we deem (too often -rightly) that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> suffering and disappointment are but barren thorns, -whereon grows neither fruit nor flower, 'tis our sin that they are so, -for they are designed to bear an excellent harvest. "Sweet are the uses -of adversity;" so he has said who knew all things, and so indeed to the -wise they are.</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 30th.</i></h3> - -<p>We rode down to the "Chelsea Ferry," and crossed over the Charles river, -where the shore opposite Boston bears the name of that refuge for -damaged marine stores. The breath of the sea was delicious, as we -crossed the water in one of the steam-boats constantly plying to and -fro; and on the other side, as we rode towards the beach, it came -greeting us delightfully from the wide waters. When we started from -Boston, the weather was intensely hot, and the day promised to be like -the day before yesterday, a small specimen of the dog-days. We had about -a five miles' ride through some country that reminded me of Scotland: -now and then the dreary landscape was relieved by the golden branches of -a willow tree, and the delicate pale peach blossoms, and tiny white buds -in the apple orchards, peeping over some stone dyke, like a glance over -the wall from the merry laughing spring. So we reached Chelsea beach, a -curving, flat, sandy shore, forming one side of a small bay which runs -up between this land and a rocky peninsula that stretches far out into -the ocean, called Nahant. At the extremity of the basin lay glimmering a -while sunny town, by name <i>Lynn</i>;—'tis quite absurd the starts and -stares which the familiar names cause one for ever to make here. This -small bay is beautifully smooth and peaceful; the shore is a shelving -reach of hard fine sand, nearly two miles long, and the wild waves are -warded off in their violence from it by the rocky barrier of Nahant. How -happy I was to see the beautiful sea once more,—to be once more -galloping over the golden sands,—to be once more wondering at and -worshipping the grandeur and loveliness of this greatest of God's -marvellous works. How I do love the sea!—my very soul seems to gather -energy, and life, and light, from its power, its vastness, its bold -bright beauty, its fresh invigorating airs, its glorious, triumphant, -rushing sound. The thin, thin rippling waves came like silver leaves -spreading themselves over the glittering sand, with just a little, -sparkling, pearly edge, like the cream of a bright glass of champagne. -Close along the shore the water was of that pale transparent green -colour, that blends<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> so delicately with the horizon, sometimes at -sunset; but out beyond, towards the great deep, it wore that serene and -holiest blue that surrounds one in mid-ocean, when the earth is nearly -as far below as the heaven seems high above us. For a short time my -spirits seemed like uncaged birds; I rejoiced with all my might,—I -could have shouted aloud for delight; I galloped far along the sand, as -close into the water's restless edge as my horse would bear to go. But -the excitement died away, and then came vividly back the time when last -I stood upon the sea beach at Cramond, and lost myself in listening to -that delicious sound of the chiming waters—I was many years younger -then.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The end of my ride was sadder than the beginning, for at first my senses -alone took cognizance of what surrounded me, and afterwards my soul -looked on it, and it grew dark. We rode two miles along the beach, and -stopped at a little wooden hut, where, Mr. —— told me, sportsmen, who -come to shoot plover along the flats by the shore, resort to dress their -dinners and refresh themselves. Here we dismounted: lay in the sun on -the roof with the fresh, sweet, blessed breath of heaven fanning us. My -horse thought proper to break his bridle and walk himself off through -the fields: they followed him with corn, and various inducements; —— -and I, meantime, ran down to the water, collecting interesting relics, -muscle shells, quartz, pebbles, and sea-weed; finally, we remounted and -returned home. The weather had changed completely, and become quite -bleak and cold: the variations of the climate in this place are -terrible. As we rode down a pleasant lane towards the Salem road, we met -a large crowd of country-people busily employed in raising the framework -of a house. In this part of the country, the poorer class of people -build their houses, or rather, the wooden frames of their houses, -entirely before they set them up. When the skeleton is entirely -finished, they call together all their neighbours to assist in the -raising, which is an event of much importance, and generally ends in a -merry-making. The filling up the outline of the habitation, which they -do with boards here, is an after work: the frame seems to be the -material part of the building, and slight enough too, I thought, for -protection against these bitter east winds. We reached home at about -half-past two. The play was Much Ado about Nothing: the house was spoilt -by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> the fair which the ladies have been getting up for the blind here, -and which was lighted and open for inspection previous to to-morrow, -when the sale is to take place.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="center">LINES.</div></div> -<div class="stanza"><div>*<span class="s3"> </span>*<span class="s3"> </span>*<span class="s3"> </span>and I</div> -<div>Am reading, too, my book of memory:</div> -<div>With eyelids closed, over the crested foam,</div> -<div>And the blue marbled sea, I seek my home.</div> -<div>All present things forgotten, on the shore</div> -<div>Of the romantic Forth I stand once more;</div> -<div>Once more I hear the waves' harmonious strife;</div> -<div>Once more, upon the mountain coast of Fife,</div> -<div>I see the checker'd lights and shadows fall.</div> -<div>Upon the sand crumbles the ruin'd wall</div> -<div>That guards no more the desolate demesne,</div> -<div>And the deserted mansion. High between</div> -<div>The summer clouds the Ochil hills arise;</div> -<div>And far, far, like a shadow in the skies,</div> -<div>Ben Lomond towers aloft in sovereign height.</div> -<div>O, Cramond beach! are thy sands still as bright—</div> -<div>Thy waters still as sunny,—thy wild shore</div> -<div>As lonely and as lovely as of yore?—</div> -<div>Haunts of my happy time! as wandering back</div> -<div>Along my life, on memory's faithful track,</div> -<div>How fair ye seem,—how fair, how dear ye are!</div> -<div>Ye need not to be gazed at from afar;</div> -<div>Deceptive distance lends no brighter hue;</div> -<div>Your beauty and your peacefulness were true.</div> -<div>Not yours the charms from which we wearied stray,</div> -<div>And own them only when they're far away.</div> -<div>O, be ye blest for all the happiness</div> -<div>Which I have known in your wild loneliness.</div> -<div>Old sea, whose voice yet chimes upon my ear,—</div> -<div>Old paths, whose every winding step was dear,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span>—</div> -<div>Dark rocky promontories,—echoing caves,</div> -<div>Worn hollow by the white feet of the waves,—</div> -<div>Blue lake-like waters,—legend-haunted isle,</div> -<div>Over ye all, bright be the summer's smile;</div> -<div>And gently fall the winter on your breast,</div> -<div>Haunts of my youth, my memory's place of rest.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, May 1st.</i></h3> - -<p>Mr. —— came in the morning, and I settled to call down at eleven for -Mrs. —— to go to the fair. We drove to Faneuil Hall, a building -opposite the market, which was appropriated to the uses of the fair; but -the crowd was so dense round the steps, that we found it impossible to -approach them, and wisely gave up the attempt, determining to take our -drive, and then come back and try our later fortune. We drove down to -the Chelsea beach. The day was bleak and cold, though bright, with a -cutting east wind. After taking a good race along the bright creaming -edge, we returned to the carriage, and drove into town again to the -fair, which we managed at last to enter. The whole thing was crowd, -crush, and confusion, to my bewildered eyes. We got upon a platform -behind the stalls, and squeezed our way to Mrs. ——'s shop, where my -father had desired me to buy him a card-case, which I did. I found —— -installed in her stall. —— joined us, and Mr. ——, who drew me away -to his wife's table, where I bought one or two things, and, having -emptied my purse, came away. After dinner, Mr. —— came in: he showed -us some things he had bought at the fair. I thought the prices enormous, -but the money is well spent in itself, or rather, on its ultimate -object, and the immediate return is of no import.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 2d.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, went over to rehearsal; at half-past eleven, went out -to ride: the day was heavenly, bright, and mild, with a full, soft, -sweet spring breeze blowing life and health over one. The golden -willow-trees were all in flower, and the air, as we rode by them, was -rich with their fragrance. The sky was as glorious as the sky of -Paradise: the whole world was full of loveliness; and my spirits were in -most harmonious tune with all its beauty. We rode along the chiming -beach, talking gravely of many matters, temporal and spiritual; and when -we reached<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> the pines, I dismounted, entreated for a scrap of paper, -and, in the miserable little parlour of this miserable little mansion, -sat down and scribbled some miserable doggrel to ease my heart. How -beautiful the scene around me was! the bright boundless sea, smooth as a -sapphire, except at the restless rippling edge; the serene holy sky -looking down so earnestly and gently on the flowering earth; the -reviving breeze, dipping like a bird its fresh wings into the -water,—how beautiful all things did seem to me,—how full of witnesses -of the great power and goodness that created them. Why is it that clouds -ever come between us and God when there are seasons like this, when we -seem to sit at his very feet,—when his glory and his mercy seem the -atmosphere we are breathing, and our whole existence is lifted, for a -time, into the reality of all we hope and pray for? Yet these are but -passing emotions: they are not, indeed, the very spirit of God,—they -are but reflections of his image, caught from the glorious mirror of -nature. The sky becomes cloudy,—the sea stormy; the blossoming and the -bearing seasons pass away, and winter comes apace, with withered aspect, -and bitter biting breath; the face of the universe becomes dark, and the -trust, and faith, and joy of our souls, fade into doubt, disbelief, and -sorrow. Infirmity and imperfection pluck us back from our heavenward -flight, and the weight of our mortality drags us down fast, fast again -towards the earth. These fair outward creatures, and the blessed -emotions they excite, will pass away,—must—do pass away,—and where is -the abiding revelation of God to which we shall turn? It lives for ever, -in the still burning light of a strong and steadfast soul; in the -resolute will and high unshaken purpose of good; in the quiet, calm, -collected might of reason; in the undying warmth and brightness of a -pure and holy heart.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>My ride did me ten thousand goods. As we were riding through Mrs. ——'s -farm, a little boy came running to meet me with his hand full of -beautiful flowers, which he stood upon tiptoe to thrust into my hand, -and, without waiting to be thanked, rushed back into the house. I was -delighted: the flowers were exquisite, and the manner of the gift very -enchanting. Altogether, I do not know when I have been so completely -filled with pleasurable emotions as during this ride.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="center">LINES.</div></div> -<div class="stanza"><div>To the smooth beach, the silver sea</div> -<div class="i1">Comes rippling in a thousand smiles,</div> -<div>And back again runs murmuringly,</div> -<div class="i1">>To break around yon distant isles.</div> -<div>The sunshine, through a floating veil</div> -<div class="i1">Of golden clouds, looks o'er the wave,</div> -<div>And gilds, far off, the outline pale,</div> -<div class="i1">Of many a rocky cape and cave,</div> -<div>The breath of spring comes balmily</div> -<div class="i1">Over the newly-blossom'd earth;</div> -<div>The smile of spring, on sea, and sky,</div> -<div class="i1">Is shedding light, and love, and mirth.</div> -<div>I would that thou wert by my side,</div> -<div class="i1">As underneath the rosy bloom</div> -<div>Of flowering orchard trees I ride,</div> -<div class="i1">And drink their fragrant fresh perfume;</div> -<div>I would that thou wert by my side,</div> -<div class="i1">To feel this soft air on thy brow,</div> -<div>And listen to the chiming tide</div> -<div class="i1">Along that smooth shore breaking now;</div> -<div>I would that thou wert here to bless,</div> -<div class="i1">As I do now, the love and care,</div> -<div>That, with such wealth of loveliness,</div> -<div class="i1">Have made life's journeying-land so fair.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div><p class="center">* * * * *</p></div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div><p class="center">* * * * *</p></div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div><p class="center">* * * * *</p></div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -</div></div></div> - -<p>I have taken several enormous rides round Boston, and am more and more -delighted with its environs, which are now in full flush of blossoming, -as sweet, and fresh, and lovely as any thing can be. On Saturday, rode -to the Blue Hills, a distance of upwards of twelve miles. The roads -round this place are almost as good as roads in England, and the country -altogether reminds me of that dear little land.<a name="FNanchor_97_97" id="FNanchor_97_97"></a><a href="#Footnote_97_97" class="fnanchor">[97]</a> These Blue<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> Hills -were, a few years ago, a wilderness of forest—the favourite resort of -rattlesnakes; but the trees have been partly cleared, and though 'tis -still a wild desolate region, clothed with firs, and uncheered by a -human habitation, its more savage tenants have disappeared with the -thick<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> coverts in which they nestled, and we rode to the summit of the -highest hill without seeing any thing in the shape of Eve's enemy. At -the top, by the by, we did find some species of building in decay and -ruin. Whoever perched himself up there had no mind to be overlooked, and -must have been fond of fresh air. The view from the mountain is -magnificent, yet I do not believe the elevation to be very -extraordinary; although, as I looked down, it seemed to me as though the -world was stretched at my feet; and I thought of the temptation of our -Saviour. The various villages, with their blossoming orchards, looked -like patches of a snow-scene; the river wound, like a silver snake, all -round the fields; the little lakes lay diminished to drops of bright -blue light; and the lesser mountains rose below us like the waves of a -dark sea. The whole was strange and awful to me—the savage loneliness -of the place, its apparent remoteness from the earth, and its walkers, -filled me with a solemn sensation. Had I been there alone, I do not know -a place where I should sooner have expected to meet some of the -wandering spirits of mid-air,—shapes, and sights, and beings of another -order from those of the world, that lay like a map below me. The -mountain itself is formed of granite, of which large slabs appeared -through the turf and brushwood. I looked in vain for what I found in -such abundance on the Portland hill, the sweet wild thyme. I thought I -should find some of it among the stony rifts, where it loves to cling, -but I was disappointed. Indeed, I met with a much more severe -disappointment than that. The turf was thickly strewn with clumps of -violets, the very same in form and colour as our own sweet wood violet. -I stooped in an ecstasy to gather them, but found they were totally -senseless<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span>—mere pretences of violets. A violet without fragrance! a -wild one, too!—the thing's totally unnatural. I flung the little purple -cheat away in a rage. I have since found cowslips with the same entire -absence of fragrance. The heat and cold of this climate chill or wither -every thing; and almost all the flowers which are most common and sweet, -growing in the moist soil of England, seem reared with difficulty here, -and lose their great fragrance, their soul, as it were, under the -extreme influences of this sky.<a name="FNanchor_98_98" id="FNanchor_98_98"></a><a href="#Footnote_98_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a> There were many wild things growing -on this mountain, that for beauty, and delicacy of form and colour, -would have found honourable place in our conservatories; but they had -not the slightest perfume, and I took no delight in them. A scentless -flower is a monster; and though I acknowledge with due admiration the -pale beauty of that queen of flowers, the camelia, I never see it in its -cold pearl-like pride of bloom, that it does not strike me like a fine -lady—an artificial creature, fair indeed to behold, but without the -very property of a flower—sweetness. Oh, the lilies of the valley,—the -primroses,—the violets,—the sweet, sweet hawthorn,—the fresh fragrant -blush rose,—the purple lilac bloom,—the silver serynga,—the faint -breathing hyacinths,—the golden cowslips, of a morning, at the close of -May in England!—the fulness of sweetness that loads the temperate air, -as it breathes over the fresh lawns of that flower garden!</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I took another long ride to a quarry ten miles distant from Boston, -whence the granite, which is much used in Boston for building, is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> -drawn. I started at six in the morning, and rode about twenty miles -before breakfast, which I think was a piece of virtue bordering upon -heroism: to be sure, I had my reward, for any thing so sweet as the -whole world, at about half-past six, I never beheld. The dew was yet -fresh upon tree and flower,—the roads were shady and cool,—the dust -had not yet been disturbed; a mild, soft, full breeze blew over the -flowery earth, and the rosy apple blossoms stirred on the rocking boughs -against the serene and smiling sky. They have in this country neither -nightingales, thrushes, linnets, nor blackbirds, at least, none with the -same notes as ours; but every now and then, from the snowy cherry trees, -there came a wild snatch of trilling melody, like the clear ringing song -of a canary bird. My companion did not know the minstrel by his note; -but I never heard a more brilliant and joyful strain, or one more fitted -to the bright hour of opening day,—always excepting the lark's, that -triumphant embodied spirit of song.<a name="FNanchor_99_99" id="FNanchor_99_99"></a><a href="#Footnote_99_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a> The blackbird's song is to me -the sweetest in the world,—sad and soft, and rich as the sunsets -through which it is heard. The quarry which we visited is an extensive -vein of fine dark-coloured granite. We dismounted, and walked among the -workmen to see them at their various processes. This quarry, and one at -a short distance, merely supply the blocks of granite, which, being -detached from the main stone, are piled upon cars, and sent down an -inclined plane to the rail-road, by means of a powerful chain, which -acts at once as a support and check, suffering the load to proceed -slowly down the declivity, and at the same time sending up from the -bottom, upon another track, the empty car from which the granite has -been unloaded below, as the buckets of a well are drawn up and down. A -very serious accident occurred here, by the by, to a party of gentlemen, -among whom Mr. —— was one. They had placed themselves in the empty car -at the bottom of the inclined plane, and were being slowly drawn up, as -the car loaded with granite descended on the other track. Just as they -were approaching the summit, the chain by which the car was drawn up -gave way, and it rolled backwards down the plane with fearful velocity, -and, starting off the track of the rail-road, pitched down into a ravine -full of rocks and blocks of granite,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> over which the road passes like a -bridge at the foot of the quarry. I believe one of them was killed, and -the others most terribly injured. The rough blocks of granite are -conveyed by horses, in the same rail-road cars, to smaller quarries -below, where they are wrought and shaped for their appointed uses. After -looking down from the summit of the granite rock upon the country which -lay smiling for many a sunny mile of flowery earth and sparkling sea -below, and wandering about the works, which are interesting and curious, -we remounted, and rode home over turfy wood-paths, through tangled -thickets of pine, fir, and cedar, whose warm fragrance was beginning to -be drawn forth by the morning sun. We disturbed in our path a poor -woodcock, who was sitting with her young: it was a pity to see the poor -thing flutter about her treasure, and go trailing a little way into the -brush-wood, to entice us away from them. Poor mother! what a tempest of -fear and agony was in your downy breast. I was very sorry we had -frightened her, poor creature. The country we rode through was extremely -pretty,—so, indeed, I think all the country round Boston is; the only -deficiency is water,—running water, I mean; for there are several -beautiful pools in this vicinity,—and, turn which way you will, the -silver shield of the sea shining against the horizon is a lovely feature -of the landscape. But there are no rivulets, no brooks, no sparkling -singing water-courses to refresh one's senses, as one rides across the -fields and through the woodlands. —— called on us on Sunday last. He -is very enchanting: I wish it had been my good fortune to see him -oftener. One of the <i>great men</i> of this country, he would have been a -first-rate man all the world over; and, like all first-rate people, -there is a simplicity and a total want of pretension about him that is -very delightful. He gave us a description of Niagara, which did what he -complained no description of it ever does,—conveyed to us an exact idea -of the natural position and circumstances which render these falls so -wonderful; whereas, most describers launch forth into vague and -untangible rhapsodies, which, after all, convey no express idea of any -thing but water in the abstract, he gave me, by his few simple words, a -more <i>real</i> impression of the stupendous cataract than all that was ever -writ or spoken of waterfalls before, not excepting Byron's Terni. Last -Saturday, I dined at ——'s; where, for my greater happiness, I sat -between —— and ——. I remember especially two bright things uttered; -the one by the one, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> other by the other of these worthies. Mr. ——, -speaking of Knowles's Hunchback, said, "Well, after all, it's no great -matter. The author evidently understands stage effect and dramatic -situations, and so on; but as for the writing, it's by no means as good -as Shakspeare." I looked at the man in amazement, and suggested to him -that Shakspeare did not grow upon every bush. Presently, Mr. —— began -a sentence by assuring me that he was a worshipper of Shakspeare; and -ended it by saying that Othello was disgusting, King Lear ludicrous, and -Romeo and Juliet childish nonsense: whereat I swallowed half a pint of -water, and nearly my tumbler too, and remained silent; for what could I -say? However, in spite of this, I owe —— some gratitude, for he -brought —— to see me the other day, whose face is more like that of a -good and intellectual man than almost any face I ever saw. The climate -of this place is dreadful! The night before last, the weather was so -warm, that, with my window open, I was obliged to take half the clothes -off my bed: last night was so cold, that, with window shut, and -additional covering, I could scarce get to sleep for the cold. This is -terrible, and forms a serious drawback upon the various attractions of -Boston; and to me it has many. The houses are like English houses: the -Common is like Constitution Hill; Beacon Street is like a bit of Park -Lane; and Summer Street, now that the chestnut trees are in bloom, is -perfectly beautiful. But for the climate, I should like to live in -Boston very much: my stay here has been delightful. It is in itself a -lovely place, and the country round it is charming. The people are -intellectual, and have been most abundantly good-natured and kind to me.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>I have finished ——'s sermons, which are most excellent. I think he is -one of the purest English prose-writers now living. I revere him -greatly; yet I do not think his denial of the Trinity is consistent with -the argument by which he maintains the truth of the miracles. I have -begun the Diary of an Ennuyée again: that book is most enchanting to -me,—merely to read the names of the places in which one's imagination -goes sunning itself for ever, is delightful.</p> - -<h3><i>New York.</i></h3> - -<p>I have seen ——, who in his outward man bears but little token of his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> -inward greatness. Miss —— had prepared me for an exterior over which -debility and sickness had triumphed now for some years; but, thought I, -there must be eyes and a brow; and there the spirit will surely be seen -upon its throne. But the eyes were small grey eyes, with an expression -which struck me at first as more akin to shrewdness of judgment, than -genius and the loftier qualities of the mind; and though the brow and -forehead were those of an intellectual person, they had neither the -expanse nor conformation I had imagined. The subject of our -conversation, though sufficiently natural for him to choose, addressing -one of my craft, did not appear to me to be a happy one for his own -powers,—perhaps I thought so because I differed from him. He talked -about the stage and acting in as unreal, and, in my opinion, mistaken, a -manner as possible. Had he expressed himself unknowingly about acting, -that would not have surprised me; for he can have no means of judging of -it, not having frequented the theatre for some years past: and those who -have the best means of forming critical judgments upon dramatic subjects -for the most part talk arrant nonsense about them. Lawrence was the only -man I ever heard speak about the stage who did so with understanding and -accuracy. I have heard the very cleverest men in England talk the -greatest stuff imaginable about actors and acting. But to return to -——: he said he had not thought much upon the subject, but that it -appeared to him feasible and highly desirable to take detached passages -and scenes from the finest dramatic writers, and have them well -declaimed in comparatively private assemblies,—this as a wholesome -substitute for the stage, of which he said he did not approve; and he -thought this the best method of obtaining the intellectual pleasure and -profit to be derived from fine dramatic works, without the illusion and -excitement belonging to theatrical exhibitions. My horror was so -unutterable at this proposition, and my amazement so extreme that he -should make it, that I believe my replies to it were all but incoherent. -What! take one of Shakspeare's plays bit by bit, break it piece-meal, in -order to make recitals of it!—destroy the marvellous unity of one of -his magnificent works, to make patches of declamation! If the stage is -evil, put it away, and put away with it those writings which properly -belong to it, and to nothing else; but do not take dramatic -compositions, things full of present action and emotion, to turn them -into recitations,—and mutilated ones too. Get other poems to declaim, -no matter how vivid or impassioned in their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> descriptions, so their form -be not dramatic. It is not to be supposed that the effect proper and -natural to a fine dramatic conception can be preserved when the language -is merely declaimed without the assistance of distance, dress, scenic -effects,—all the appertainings that the author has reckoned upon to -work out his idea. —— mentioned the dagger soliloquy in Macbeth, as an -instance which would admit of being executed after his idea; saying, -that that, well read by any person in a drawing-room, would have all the -effect necessary or desirable. I remember hearing my aunt Siddons read -the scenes of the witches in Macbeth; and, while doing so, was obliged -to cover my eyes, that her velvet gown, modern cap, and spectacles might -not disturb the wild and sublime images that her magnificent voice and -recitation were conjuring up around me. If a man professes to tell you a -story, no matter what,—say the story of Romeo and Juliet,—and sits in -a modern drawing-room, in modern costume, it matters not,—<i>he</i> is no -part of his story,—you do not connect him with his narrative,—his -appearance in no way clashes with your train of thought,—you are not -thinking of him, but of the people he is talking about. But if a man in -a modern drawing-room, and in modern costume, were to get up, and begin -reciting the balcony scene in Romeo and Juliet, I think the case would -be altered. However, never having heard such a proposal before, I had -not thought much about it, and only felt a little stunned at the idea of -Shakspeare's <i>histories</i> being broken into fragments.<a name="FNanchor_100_100" id="FNanchor_100_100"></a><a href="#Footnote_100_100" class="fnanchor">[100]</a></p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Thursday.</i></h3> - -<p>At a little after ten, —— came to take us to see the savages. We drove -down, D——, my father, he, and I, to their hotel. We found, even at -that early hour, the portico, passage, and staircase, thronged with -gazers upon the same errand as ourselves. We made our way, at length, -into the presence-chamber; a little narrow dark room, with all the -windows shut, crowded with people, come to stare at their fellow wild -beasts. Upon a sofa sat Black Hawk, a diminutive shrivelled-looking old -man, with an appearance of much activity in his shrunk limbs, and a -calmness and dignified self-composure in his manner, which, in spite of -his want of size and comeliness, was very striking. Next to him sat a -young man, the adopted son of his brother the prophet, whose height and -breadth, and peculiar gravity of face and deportment, were those of a -man nearly forty, whereas he is little more than half that age. The -undisturbed seriousness of his countenance was explained to me by <i>their -keeper</i>, thus: he had, it seems, the day before, indulged rather too -freely in the delights of champagne, and was suffering just retribution -in the shape of a headach,—unjust retribution, I should say, for in his -savage experience no such sweet bright poison had ever before been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span> -recorded, <i>I guess</i>, by the after pain it causes. Next to him sat Black -Hawk's son, a noble big young creature, like a fine Newfoundland puppy, -with a handsome scornful face, which yet exhibited more familiarity and -good-humoured amusement at what was going on than any of the rest. His -hair was powdered on the top, and round the ears, with a bright -vermilion-coloured powder, and knots of scarlet berries or beads, I -don't know which, hung like ear-rings on each side of his face. A string -of glass beads was tied round his naked throat; he was wrapped in a -large blanket, which completely concealed his form, except his legs and -feet, which were clothed in common leather shoes, and a species of -deerskin gaiter. He seemed much alive to what was going on, conversed -freely in his own language with his neighbour, and laughed once or twice -aloud, which rather surprised me, as I had heard so much of their -immovable gravity. The costume of the other young man was much the same, -except that his hair was not adorned. Black Hawk himself had on a blue -cloth surtout, scarlet leggings, a black silk neck-handkerchief, and -ear-rings. His appearance altogether was not unlike that of an old -French gentleman. Beside him, on a chair, sat one of his warriors, -wrapped in a blanket, with a cotton handkerchief whisped round his head. -At one of the windows apart from their companions, with less courtesy in -their demeanour, and a great deal of sullen savageness in their serious -aspects, sat the great warrior, and the prophet of the tribe—the latter -is Black Hawk's brother. I cannot express the feeling of commiseration -and disgust which the whole scene gave me. That men such as ourselves, -creatures with like feelings, like perceptions, should be brought, as -strange animals at a show, to be gazed at the livelong day by succeeding -shoals of gaping folk, struck me as totally unfitting. The cold dignity -of the old chief, and the malignant scowl of the prophet, expressed the -indecency and the irksomeness of such a situation. Then, to look at -those two young savages, with their fine muscular proportions, and think -of them cooped up the whole horrible day long, in this hot prison-house -full of people, made my heart ach. How they must loathe the sight of -these narrow walls, and the sound of these strange voices; how they must -sicken for their unmeasured range of wilderness! The gentleman who -seemed to have the charge of them pressed me to go up and shake hands -with them, as every body else in the room did; but I refused to do so -from literal compassion, and unwillingness to add<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> to the wearisome toil -they were made to undergo. As we were departing, however, they -reiterated their entreaties that we would go up and shake hands with -them,—so I did. Black Hawk and the young men received our courtesy with -great complaisance; but when we went to the great warrior and the -prophet, they seemed exceedingly loath to receive our hands, the latter -particularly, who had, moreover, one of the very worst expressions I -think I ever saw upon a human countenance. I instinctively withdrew my -hand; but when my father offered his, the savage's face relaxed into a -smile, and he met his greeting readily. I wonder what pleased him about -my father's appearance, whether it was his large size or not. I had a -silver vinaigrette in my pouch, which I gave Black Hawk's son, by way of -keepsake: it will make a charming present for his squaw.</p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, June 30th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at four, but, after looking at my watch, resumed my slumbers until -six, when I started up, much dismayed to find it so late, and presently, -having dressed as fast as ever I could, we set off for the steam-boat. -The morning was the brightest possible, the glorious waters that meet -before New York were all like rivers of light blazing with the reflected -radiance of the morning sky. We had no sooner set foot on board the -steam-boat, than a crowd of well-known faces surrounded us: I was -introduced to Mr. ——, and Mr. —— the brother of our host at Cold -Spring. Mr. —— came and stood by me for a considerable time after we -started. It is agreeable to talk to him, because he has known and seen -so much; traversed the world in every direction, and been the friend of -Byron and Shelley; a common mind, that had enjoyed the same -opportunities (that's impossible, by the by, no common mind would have -sought or found them), must have acquired something from intercourse -with such men, and such wide knowledge of things; but he is an uncommon -man, and it is very interesting to hear him talk of what he has seen, -and those he has known.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>When we reached West Point, Mr. —— was waiting with his boat to convey -us over to Cold Spring; and accordingly, bidding our various -acquaintance and companions farewell, we rowed over out of the course of -the river, into a sunny bay it forms among the hills, to our kinsman's abode.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span></p><p>Mr. ——'s place is a lovely little nook, situated on the summit of a -rise on the brink of the placid curve of water formed here by the river, -and which extends itself from the main current about a mile into the -mountains, ending in a wide marsh. The house, though upon a hill, is so -looked down upon, and locked in by the highlands around it, that it -seems to be at the bottom of a valley. From the verandah of his house, -through various frames which he has had cut, with exceeding good -judgment, among the plantations around the lawn, exquisite glimpses -appeared of the mountains, the little bay, the glorious Hudson itself, -with the graceful boats for ever walking its broad waters, their white -sails coming through the rocky passes where the river could not be -detected, as though they were sailing through the valleys of the earth. -The day was warm, but a fresh breeze stirred the boughs, and cooled the -air. My father and D—— seemed overcome with drowsiness, and lay in the -verandah with half-closed eyes, peeping at the dream-like scene around -them. I was not inclined to rest; and Mr. —— having promised to show -me some falls at a short distance from the house, he, his brother, and I -set forth thither. We passed through the iron-works: 'twas Sunday, and -every thing, except a bright water-course, laughing and singing as it -ran, was still. They took me over the works; showed me the iron frames -of large mill-wheels, the machinery and process of boring the cannon, -the model of an iron forcing-pump, the casting-houses, and all the -wonders of their manufactory. All mechanical science is very interesting -to me, when I have an opportunity of seeing the detail of it, and -comprehending, by illustrations presented to my eyes, the technical -terms used by those conversing with me. We left these dark abodes, and -their smouldering fires, and strange powerful-looking instruments, and, -taking a path at the foot of the mountains, skirted the marsh for some -time, and then struck into the woods, ascending a tremendous stony path, -at the top of which we threw ourselves down to pant, and looked below, -through a narrow rent in the curtain of leaves around us, on the river, -and rocks, and mountains, bright with the noonday splendour of the -unclouded sky. After resting here a few moments, we arose, and climbed -again, through the woods, across a sweet clover-field, to the brow of -the hill where stands the highland school, a cheerful-looking cottage, -with the mountain tops all round, the blessed sky above, and the -downward sloping woods, and lake-like river below. Passing through the -ground <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span>surrounding it, we joined a road skirting a deep ravine, from -the bottom of which the waters called to me. I was wild to go down, but -my companions would not let me: it was in vain that I strained over the -brink, the trees were so thickly woven together, and the hollow so deep, -that I could see nothing but dark boughs, except every now and then, as -the wind stirred them, the white glimmer of the leaping foam, as it -sprang away with a shout that made my heart dance. We followed the path, -which began to decline; and presently a silver thread of gushing water -ran like a frightened child across our way, and flung itself down into -the glen. At length we reached the brown golden-looking stream. Mr. —— -was exhorting us to take an upper path, which, he said, would bring us -to the foot of the fall; but I was not to be seduced away from the side -of the rivulet, and insisted upon crossing it then and there, through -the water, over moss-capped stones, across fallen trees, which, struck -by the lightning, or undermined by the cold-kissing waters, had choked -up the brook with their leafy bridges. So striving on, as best we might, -after wading through the stream two or three times, we reached the end -and aim of our journey, the waterfall. We stood on the brink of a pool, -about forty feet across, and varying in depth from three to seven or -eight feet: it was perfectly circular, and except on the south, where -the waters take their path down the glen, closed round with a wall of -rock about thirty feet high, in whose crevices trees with their rifted -roots hung fearlessly, clothing the grey stone with a soft curtain of -vivid green. Immediately opposite the brook, and at the north of the -pool, the water came tumbling over this rocky wall in three distinct -streams, which, striking the projecting ledges of iron-looking stone, at -different angles, met within eight or ten feet of the pool, and fell in -a mingled sheet of foam. The water broke over the rocks like a shower of -splintered light; the spray sprang up in the sunlight, and fell again -all glittering into the dark basin below, that gleamed like a magic -jewel set in the mossy earth. On the edge of the rocks, beside the -waterfall, a tree stood out among its greenly-mantled fellows, bare, -broken, and scathed to the very roots with lightning. Its upper half had -fallen aslant one branch of the waterfall, and lay black and dripping -over the pure white torrent; half falling down its course, half stayed -by some rocky ledges on which it rested. As I gazed up in perfect -ecstasy, an uncontrollable desire seized me to clamber<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span> up the rocks by -the side of the fall, and so reach the top of it. My companions laughed -incredulously as I expressed my determination to do so; but followed -where I led, until they became well assured that I was in earnest. -Remonstrance, and representation of impossibility, having been tried in -vain, Mr. —— prepared to guide me, and Mr. —— with my bag, parasol, -and bonnet in charge, returned to the edge of the pool to watch our -progress. Away we went over the ledges of the rocks, with nothing but -damp leaves, and slippery roots of trees, for footing. At one moment, -the slight covering of mould on which I had placed my foot crumbled from -beneath it, and I swung over the water by a young sapling which upheld -me well, and by which I recovered footing and balance. We had now -reached the immediate side of the waterfall, and my guide began -ascending the slippery slanting rocks down which it fell. I followed: in -an instant I was soaked through with the spray, my feet slipped, I had -no hold, he was up above me, the pool far below. With my head bowed -against the foam and water, I was feeling where next to tread, when a -bit of rock, that my companion had thought firm, broke beneath his foot, -and came falling down beside me into the stream. I paused, for I was -frightened: I looked up for a moment, but was blinded by the water, and -could not see where my guide was; I looked down the slanting ledge we -had climbed, over which the white water was churning angrily: "Shall I -come down again?" I cried to Mr. ——, who was anxiously looking up at -our perilous path. "Give me your hand," shouted his brother, above me. I -lifted my head, and turned towards him, and a dazzling curtain of spray -and foam fell over my face. "I cannot see you," I replied; "I cannot go -on; I do not know what to do." "Give me your hand!" he exclaimed again; -and I, planting one foot upon a ledge of rock so high as to lift me off -the other, held up my arm to him: but my limbs were so strained from his -height above me, that I had no power to spring or move, either up or -down. However, I felt my presence of mind going: I knew that to go down -was impossible, except headlong; the ascent must therefore be persevered -in. "Are you steady, quite, quite steady?" I enquired; he replied, -"Yes;" and holding out his hand, I locked mine in it, and bade him draw -me up. But he had not calculated upon my weight; my slight appearance -had deceived him; and as I bore upon his arm, we both of us slipped. I -turned as sick as death; but only cried out, "Recover yourself, recover -yourself, I am<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> safe;" which I was, upon a rocky rim about three inches -wide, with my arm resting on the falling stump of the blasted tree. He -did recover his balance; and, again holding out his hand, drew me up -beside where he was sitting, on the edge of the rocks, in the water. We -pledged each other in the clear stream; and, standing on the top of our -hardly-gained eminence, in the midst of the rushing brook I wrang my -handkerchief triumphantly at Mr. ——; which was rather a comical -consideration, as I was literally dripping from head to foot. No Naïad -ever looked so thoroughly watery, or could have taken more delight in a -ducking. As soon as he saw us safe, he scrambled up through the woods to -the road; and we doing the same, we presently all met on the dusty -highway, where we congratulated each other on our perseverance and -success, and laughed very exceedingly at my soaked situation. We -determined not to pass through the highland school-ground, but kept the -main road for the advantage of sun and wind, the combined influences of -which presently dried my frock and handkerchief. When I reached home, -ran up stairs, and dressed myself for dinner, which we sat down to at -about four. After dinner, came up to my room and slept very profoundly, -until summoned to coffee, which we drank in the verandah. At about eight -o'clock, the sun had left the sky; but his warm mantle lay over the -western clouds, and hung upon the rocks and woody mountain sides. A -gentle breeze was stirring the trees round where we sat; and through the -thick branches of a chestnut tree, as they waved to and fro, the silver -disk of the full moon looked placidly down upon us. We set out strolling -through the woods: leisurely as foot could fall, we took our way through -the twilight paths; and when we reached the Roman Catholic chapel our -host is building by the river side, the silent thoughtful mountains were -wrapped in deep shadows, and the broad waters shone like a sheet of -silver in the moonlight. We sat down on the cannon lying on the pebbly -shore, and Mr. —— ran off to order the boat, which presently came -stealing round over the shining waters. We got in, —— rowing, and they -put me at the helm: but, owing to Mr. ——'s misdirections, who seemed -extremely amused at my awkwardness, and took delight in bothering poor -——, by making me steer all awry, we made but little progress, and that -rather crab-wise; backing, and sideling, and turning, as though the poor -boat had been a politician.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span></p><p>Full of my own contemplations, I kept steering round and round, and so -we wandered, as purposeless as the night air over the smooth waters, and -beneath the shadows of the solemn hills, till near eleven o'clock, when -we made for shore, and slowly turned home. We sat for a length of time -under the verandah: the gentlemen were discussing the planetary system, -as accepted in the civilised world; and Mr. —— maintained, with -sufficient plausibility, that we knew nothing at all about it, in spite -of Newton: for that, though his theories were borne out by all -observation, it did not follow, therefore, that another theory equally -probable might not exist; that because he had found out one way of -accounting for the construction and motion of the heavenly bodies, there -was no other possible way in which they were constructed and impelled; -because one means is sufficient, he argued, it does not thence follow, -that 'tis the only sufficient means. Mr. —— maintained that there was, -at least, strong presumption in favour of Newton's systems; because they -are borne out by our observation of results, and also because hitherto -no other better method of accounting for what we perceive has been -discovered. And so they went on, the end of all being, to my mind, as -usual, utter unsatisfactoriness; and, as the mosquitoes were stinging -me, I left them to their discussions, and came to bed.</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, July 1st.</i></h3> - -<p>Major —— and Mr. —— came over from West Point: they were going to -prove some cannon that had not yet been fired; and some time passed in -the various preparations for so doing. At length, we were summoned down -to the water-side, to see the success of the experiment. The cannon lay -obliquely one behind the other, at intervals of about six yards, along -the curve line of the little bay; their muzzles pointed to the high -gravelly bank into which they fired. The guns were double-loaded, with -very heavy charges; and as soon as we were safely placed, so as to see -and hear, they were fired. The sound was glorious: the first heavy peal, -and then echo after echo, as they <i>rimbombavano</i> among the answering -hills, who growled aloud at the stern voice waking their still and -noonday's deep repose. I pushed out in the boat, from shore, to see the -thick curtain of smoke as it rolled its silver, and brassy, and black -volumes over the woody mountain-sides; parting in jagged rents as it -rose; through which the vivid green, and blessed sky, smiled in their -peaceful loneliness. They ended in discharging all the cannon at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> once; -which made a most glorious row, and kept the mountains grumbling with -its echoes for some minutes after the discharge. All the pieces were -sound; which was highly satisfactory, as upon each one that flaws in the -firing Mr. —— loses the cost of the piece. Just as the smoke cleared -off from the river, we saw the boat making to shore; and, presently, Mr. -——, his wife and children, and a young Mr. ——, landed. After -introductions, and one or two questions, Mrs. —— went up to her -cottage to put things in order there; Mr. —— betook himself to -Froissart and the shade; Mr. —— to his business; and D——, my father, -Mr. —— and myself, set forth to the fountain in the glen. The weather -was intensely hot; the thermometer above ninety in the shade; it was -about half-past twelve; and we toiled and gasped on like so many Indians -up the steep path. The walk had been so laborious, that neither D—— -nor my father were willing, at first, to admit that the object was a -sufficient one. We sat for some time by the dark shady pool; and they, -by degrees, recovered their breath and complacency, and began to -perceive how beautiful the place really was. My father said the -waterfall looked like a fine lace veil torn by the rocks; which pleased -me, because it did look like that. Mr. —— proposed an admirable plan, -that of walking down the water's side, and taking a boat upon the -Hudson; and so avoiding the long hot walk home. We called at the -highland school; where the worthy man who keeps it received us with -infinite civility, put us into a delicious cool room, and gave us some -white hermitage and water to drink, which did us all manner of -good.<a name="FNanchor_101_101" id="FNanchor_101_101"></a><a href="#Footnote_101_101" class="fnanchor">[101]</a> We<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> then descended to the river: after some delay and -difficulty, got a boat and rowed home.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="center">LINES.</div></div> -<div class="stanza"><div>Here be the free gifts of the morning for thee;</div> -<div>Dog-roses, with their thorns all strung with pearls,</div> -<div>And a large round diamond in each rosy cup:</div> -<div>Their leaves are the colour of Aurora's cheeks.</div> -<div>Here is a pale white flower, without a name,</div> -<div>At least to me, who am a stranger here:</div> -<div>It has a delicate almond smell, and grew</div> -<div>Among thick boughs, and leaves that guarded it.</div> -<div>Poor thing! I took it from its shelter for thee.</div> -<div>Here be some lilac heads of clover, sweet</div> -<div>As the breath of love: they lay amongst the hay</div> -<div>In a new-mown meadow, glittering in the sun.</div> -<div>Here are the leaves of the wild vine, that shine</div> -<div>Like glass without, and underneath are white</div> -<div>And soft as a swan's breast. There is an oak branch;</div> -<div>I gather'd it, because it grows at home,</div> -<div>And in this strange land look'd as sad and loving</div> -<div>As a friend's face: when it is wither'd, keep it.</div> -<div>They are all heavy with the tears of the night,</div> -<div>Who weeps, because she may not meet the sun;</div> -<div>And when he comes down from the mountain tops,</div> -<div>Parting the forests with his hands of fire,</div> -<div>He drinks her weeping, kissing all the flowers</div> -<div>With passionate love, which makes them look so blushing.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 2d.</i></h3> - -<p>Packed up my bag, took a cup of tea, went and gathered some flowers, and -gave the poor lamb some heads of clover; bade a very unwilling farewell -to the pretty place, and rowed over to West Point, where Mr. —— was -waiting for us. We breakfasted at ten, and went down<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> to meet the boat. -Young Mr. —— came over to see us off, and brought me some lovely fresh -flowers. Mr. —— and Mr. —— were both at the embarking-post. When the -boat came up, the rush to and from it was, without exception, the most -frightful thing I ever saw. The ——s were landing; and I just spoke to -her, as she was borne past by the throng. Safely on board, I again found -myself surrounded by familiar faces: I took out my work, and Mr. —— -sat down by us. As a nuisance, which all unsought-for companionship is, -he is quite the most endurable possible; for he has seen such things, -and known such people, that it is greatly worth while to listen to him. -Every thing he says of Byron and Shelley confirms my own impression of -them. The scenery of the Hudson, immediately beyond West Point, loses -much of its sublimity, though no beauty. The river widens, and the -rugged summits of the highlands melt gradually into a softer and more -undulating outline. The richness, and swelling, and falling of the land -reminded me occasionally of England. The yellow grain was giving -diversity and warmth to the green landscape; and the shadowy woods -fencing the corn-fields threw over the whole picture a sheltering -peaceful charm. On the left, we presently began to see the blue outline -of the Catskill mountains, towering into the hot sky, and looking most -blessedly cool and dark amid the fervid glowing of the noonday world. -Mrs. —— came on board at one of the stopping places. I was quite glad -to see her sweet face, and hear her gentle voice again. Mr. —— was -greatly smitten with her calm look of repose, and lulling speech, and -took to her vehemently. She told me long stories, like fairy tales, of -caverns lately discovered in the bosom of these mountains; of pits black -and fathomless; of subterranean lakes in gloomy chambers of the earth; -and tumbling waters, which fall down in the dark, where men heard, but -none had dared to go. How I should like to go there! Oh, who will lead -me into the secret parts of the earth; who will guide me to the deep -hiding-places where spirits are—where the air of this upper world is -not breathed, and its sounds are unknown—where the light of the sun is -unseen, and the voice of human creatures unheard? how I should like to -go there! At about half-past three in the afternoon, the sky became -suddenly and thickly overcast: the awning which sheltered the upper deck -was withdrawn, and every preparation made for a storm. The pale -angry-looking clouds lay heaped like chalk upon a leaden sky; and -presently one red lightning dipped<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> down into the woods like a fiery -snake falling from the heavens. At the same time, a furious gust of wind -and torrent of rain rushed down the mountain side. We scuttled down to -the lower deck as fast as ever we could; but the storm met us at the -bottom of the stairs, and in an instant I was drenched. Chairs, tables, -every thing was overturned by the gust; and the boat was running with -water in every direction. It thundered and lightened a little; but the -noise of the engine was such, that we scarce heard the storm. I stood by -the door of the furnace, and dried leisurely, talking the while to Mr. -——, who is sun-burnt enough to warm one through with a look. During -our progress, one of the wheels (or paddles, as they are properly -called) took it into its head to knock its case to pieces, and banged -the boards about in a strange way. Accident the second:—one of the men, -a black, who was employed in tending the fire, got so dreadfully heated -with the intense furnace, that he rushed out of the engine-room, and -swallowed two or three draughts of cold water. The effect was -instantaneous: he fell down in violent internal spasms, and died, poor -wretch! before we arrived at Albany. We reached that town at about -half-past five in the afternoon, and went to a house the ——s -recommended to us. At about seven, they gave us dinner; and immediately -after I came up to my own room. I was so exhausted with fatigue, and a -violent cold and cough, that I literally fell down on the floor, and -slept till dark. As we came up the river, we passed Dr. ——'s place, -Hyde Park, which has the reputation of being the best-kept private -estate in America: the situation of the house, on the edge of a ridge, -appeared to me, from the river, rather too much exposed.</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 6th.</i></h3> - -<p>My father had settled to go to the Cohoes Falls.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>When we were in the steam-boat, going up to Troy,<a name="FNanchor_102_102" id="FNanchor_102_102"></a><a href="#Footnote_102_102" class="fnanchor">[102]</a> —— put a -letter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> into my hands, which he told me was written by the mother of -Allegra, Byron's child. The letter was remarkable only for more -straightforwardness and conciseness than is usual in women's letters. I -do not know whether —— gave it me to read on that account alone, or -because it contained allusions to wild and interesting adventures of his -own: perhaps there was a mingling of motives. There never was, by the -by, a <i>homogeneous</i> motive, as Brewster would say, in the human breast. -We reached Troy in about twenty minutes, and walked up into the town to -procure some species of vehicle for our progress to the falls. There was -none ready; and while one was being procured, a man, who was standing -near us, very civilly invited us to come into his shop and sit down, -which we did very readily. The situation of the warehouses, on the side -near the river, of the main street of Troy, is exceedingly pretty. They -are, for the most part, large long rooms, opening to the street at the -one end, and on the other looking down, from a considerable height, upon -the Hudson. The shop we were in was a china-store; and the nice cold -crockery-ware made one cool to look at it: the weather was roasting. Mr. -—— left us to gather information, and kindly brought me back word that -the population of Troy was five hundred, <i>or</i> five thousand, I really -forget which; and, for my journal, it don't much matter; and that the -storekeeper assured him the Trojans were an exceedingly refined and -literary set of folks; and that the society, in point of these two -advantages, was no whit behind Boston: there's for Boston!—We obtained -a coach, and crossed a ferry, such as I had never seen before, worked by -horses. Poor wretches! they reminded me of ——'s steeds, Martyre et -Souffrance. Mr. —— observed that they led the life of the majority; -and so they do,—labour and suffering that custom renders endurable, and -that ends by grinding down every faculty of mind or soul: we're a -blessed pack of drudges, and deserve to be just what we are. After -crossing the ferry, we drove about five miles through some gentle -smiling lands, that made one feel very charitable. The Cohoes is, I -believe, a Dutch name for a hill just above a turn in the Mohawk, where, -after some shallow, rapid, hasty running over a rocky bed, the river -flings itself down over a broad barrier, between thirty and forty feet -high, with the most delightful gushing sound in the world. The foam -looked<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> very nice, and soft, and thick, and cold: I longed to be in the -middle of it.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>After wandering about for some time, we sat ourselves down on a high -grassy knoll just above the falls.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>We returned in time, as we flattered ourselves, to meet the steam-boat -which leaves Troy for Albany at four; but, just as we were crossing the -ferry, the steamer ran past us, leaving us, with eyes and mouths wide -open, very much bothered as to how we were to get down to Albany. D—— -proposed a row-boat, and the sense of the company seemed to agree -thereto; but, upon driving to the inn where we hired our carriage, and -enquiring for such a conveyance, we were assured that there was no such -thing to be had: whereupon my father, good easy man! believed there was -not, and got into the coach again. Mr. ——, however, had absconded, and -remained gone so long, that I began to think he had, perhaps, started to -swim down the river; when he presently appeared, informing us that he -had gotten a boat for us. We jumped readily out of the coach; and, -though my father had actually made a bargain for the hire of it, to -convey us to Albany, with the innkeeper, and, moreover, given him the -money, the righteous man refunded the dollars; which, Falstaff knows, is -a displeasing thing to do: "I hate that paying back!" Our row back was -delightful: the evening was calm and lovely beyond description; the sun -had lost his fierceness, and the warm air clasped the fresh woods -tenderly; the waters were unbroken as a mirror; the very spirit of love -and peace possessed the world: the effect of all which was to send me -into a very sound sleep.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>We reached Albany in very good time for dinner. Mr. —— dined with us: -what a savage he is, in some respects! He's a curious being: a -description of him would puzzle any one who had never seen him. A man -with the proportions of a giant for strength and agility; taller, -straighter, and broader than most men; yet with the most listless -indolent carelessness of gait, and an uncertain wandering way of -dropping his feet to the ground, as if he didn't know where he was -going, and didn't much wish to go any where. His face is as dark as a -Moor's;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> with a wild strange look about the eyes and forehead, and a -mark like a scar upon his cheek: his whole appearance giving one an idea -of toil, hardship, peril, and wild adventure. The expression of his -mouth is remarkably mild and sweet, and his voice is extremely low and -gentle. His hands are as brown as a labourer's: he never profanes them -with gloves, but wears two strange magical-looking rings: one of them, -which he showed me, is made of elephant's hair.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Occasionally, in his horror of one class of prejudices, he embraces the -opposite ones: perhaps the extreme of any evil, in this world of -imperfect means, can only be effectually resisted by its reverse -extreme.</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 8th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, went to rehearsal: Mr. —— came with us. The actors -were one and all reading their parts: the lady who played Charlotte was -the only exception—she was perfect. As I sat on the stage, between my -scenes, a fat, good-tempered, rosy, bead-eyed, wet-haired, shining-faced -looking man accosted me; and, having ascertained that I was myself, -proceeded to accuse me of having, in Mrs. Haller, pronounced the word -"industry" with the accent on the middle syllable, as "in<i>dus</i>try;" -adding, that he had already quoted my authority to several people for -the emphasis, and begging to know my "exquisite reason" therefor. It was -in vain that I urged that it must have been a mistake if I said so; that -I never meant to say so, if I did say so; that if I did say so, I was -very wrong to say so; that I was very sorry for having said so; that I -never would say so again. Between each of my humblest apologies my -accuser merely replied, "But you <i>did</i> say in<i>dus</i>try," with an -inflexible pertinacity of condemnation, which was not a whit softened by -my sincere confessions. Presently the worthy creature, adverting to the -letter in the Mirror about General Jackson, begged that as I had passed -the fourth of July, that glorious anniversary, in Albany, I would -illustrate its celebration by some remarks in the style of that -admirable composition. Great was the fat man's surprise, and evident his -contempt for me, when I disclaimed the authorship of that document. -Greater still waxed both, when I assured him that on the fourth of July -I positively walked out of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> the town, to avoid the noise in it. After -this, he remained gazing at me in silent amazement; and, as soon as he -had sufficiently recovered from it to move, he took up his hat, and -briefly wished me "good morning." Mr. —— told me the man was a -newspaper-editor; but I think he looked too fat, and fresh, and -good-tempered for that. When we returned home, sat down to write journal.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The play was the Gamester: the house was very full. Mr. —— did not -know one syllable of his part, and bothered me utterly. At the end of -the play, they called for my father, and civilly desired we would act -the Hunchback; as, however, we had not the dresses for it with us, he -declined, but promised we would return hereafter.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 9th.</i></h3> - -<p>After breakfast, the day being extremely fine, Mr. —— urged us to go -out, and take a walk; so forth we set, my father and I leading the way, -and D—— and Mr. —— following.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>We crossed the river, and, following the first road like a flock of -geese errant, arrived at the top of a delightful breezy knoll, opposite -a tiny waterfall, the rocks and basin of which were picturesque; but the -water had been turned off to turn a mill. The hill where we stood -commanded a beautiful view of the Hudson, Albany, and the shores -stretching away into sunny indistinctness. My father, and D——, and Mr. -——, sat down under some oak trees: I ran off to explore the stream.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>After looking about in every direction, I returned to my friends: we -strolled away through the woods and along the high road, with the sweet -smell of mellow hay keeping us company the while. We halted at an -orchard corner, near a pleasant-looking farm, where we all agreed we -should like to live.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Mr. —— killed us with laughing with an account he gave us of some of -Byron's sayings and doings, which were just as whimsical and eccentric -as unamiable, but very funny. To-morrow we start for Utica: Mr. -—— comes with us: I am glad of it—I like him.</p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 10th.</i></h3> - -<p>Just as we were getting into the railroad coach for Schenectady, a -parcel was put into my hand: it was a letter from ——, and Pellico's -"Mie Prigioni:" I was glad of it. At Schenectady we dined. By the by, I -must not forget to mention the civility we met with from the people who -kept the house. There have been so many instances given of the -discomfort and discourteousness which travellers encounter in America, -that it is but justice to record the reverse when one meets with it. For -my own part, with very few exceptions, I have hitherto met with nothing -but civility and attention of every description. We have almost always -commanded private sitting, and single sleeping, rooms; have had our -meals served in tolerable comfort and decency; and even on board the -steam-boats, where every thing is done by shoal, I have found that, in -spite of being an inveterate dawdle, and never ready at any of the -bell-ringings, I have always had a place reserved for me, and enough to -eat without fighting for it. But to return to our Schenectady hosts. The -house was very full; and, while waiting for the canal boat, to avoid the -gaping crowds with which all the rooms were filled, D—— and I walked -out into the verandah, when a pretty lassie, the daughter, I conclude, -of the house, invited us into a very nice private parlour, belonging to -the family, where I found a fine piano, books, music, and all -civilisation as well as civility. We proceeded by canal to Utica, which -distance we performed in a day and a night, starting at two from -Schenectady, and reaching Utica the next day at about noon. I like -travelling by the canal boats very much. Ours was not crowded; and the -country through which we passed being delightful, the placid moderate -gliding through it, at about four miles and a half an hour, seemed to me -infinitely preferable to the noise of wheels, the rumble of a coach, and -the jerking of bad roads, for the gain of a mile an hour. The only -nuisances are the bridges over the canal, which are so very low, that -one is obliged to prostrate one's self on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> the deck of the boat, to -avoid being scraped off it; and this humiliation occurs, upon an -average, once every quarter of an hour. Mr. —— read Don Quixote to us: -he reads very peculiarly; slowly, and with very marked emphasis. He has -a strong feeling of humour, as well as of poetry: in fact, they belong -to each other; for humour is but fancy laughing, and poetry but fancy -sad. The valley of the Mohawk, through which we crept the whole -sunshining day, is beautiful from beginning to end; fertile, soft, rich, -and occasionally approaching sublimity and grandeur in its rocks and -hanging woods. We had a lovely day, and a soft blessed sunset, which, -just as we came to a point where the canal crosses the river, and where -the curved and wooded shores on either side recede, leaving a broad -smooth basin, threw one of the most exquisite effects of light and -colour I ever remember to have seen over the water and through the sky. -The sun had scarce been down ten minutes from the horizon, when the deck -was perfectly wet with the heaviest dew possible, which drove us down to -the cabin. Here I fell fast asleep, till awakened by the cabin girl's -putting her arms affectionately round me, and telling me that I might -come and have the first choice of a berth for the night, in the horrible -hen-coop allotted to the female passengers. I was too sleepy to -acknowledge or avail myself of the courtesy; but the girl's manner was -singularly gentle and kind. We sat in the men's cabin until they began -making preparations for bed, and then withdrew into a room about twelve -feet square, where a whole tribe of women were getting to their beds. -Some half undressed, some brushing, some curling, some washing, some -already asleep in their narrow cribs, but all within a quarter of an -inch of each other: it made one shudder. As I stood cowering in a -corner, half asleep, half crying, the cabin girl came to me again, and -entreated me to let her make a bed for me. However, upon my refusing to -undress before so much good company, or lie down in such narrow -neighbourhood, she put D—— and myself in a small closet, where were -four empty berths, where I presently fell fast asleep, where she -established herself for the night, and where D——, wrapped up in a -shawl, sat till morning under the half-open hatchway, breathing damp -starlight.</p> - -<h3><i>Thursday, 11th.</i></h3> - -<p>D——'s exclamations woke me in the morning: the day was breaking -brightly, and the dewy earth was beginning to smile in the red dawn,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span> -when we approached Little Falls, a place where the placid gentle -character of the Mohawk becomes wild and romantic, and beautifully -picturesque. The canal is for some space cut through the solid rock, and -the banks, high and bold, were crowned with tangled woods, and gemmed -with wild flowers, and the delicate vivid tufts of fern. It was -exceedingly beautiful; and though I believe I missed some part of the -scenery immediately surrounding Little Falls, the approach to it, which -is of the same nature, enchanted me extremely. When we arrived at Utica, -I gave the nice cabin-girl my silver needle-case: her tenderness and -care of me the night before made it impossible for me to offer her -money. She took my gift, and, throwing her arms round my neck, kissed me -very fervently for it. I was struck with her manner, which had appeared -to me, in discharge of her common duties, reserved, and rather -dignified. This exhibition of feeling surprised me therefore; and -together with her dark eyes, hair, and complexion, made me think she -must have foreign blood in her veins. I asked her, but she said no: -American by birth, English by descent: certainly she had neither the -face nor bearing of the one or the other. She was a very singular and -striking looking person. As for Mr. ——, he fell in love with her -forthwith, and, I think, had half a mind to settle on the Mohawk, and -make her his fellow farmer. At Utica we dined; and after dinner I slept -profoundly. The gentlemen, I believe, went out to view the town, which -twenty years ago <i>was not</i>, and now is a flourishing place, with -fine-looking shops, two or three hotels, good broad streets, and a body -of lawyers, who had a supper at the house where we were staying, and -kept the night awake with champagne, shouting, toasts, and clapping of -hands: so much for the strides of civilisation through the savage lands -of this new world. The house was full, and we could not get a room to -ourselves; so we sat in a corner of the large dining-room. Passed the -evening in writing journal. Mr. —— showed me his of Sunday last.</p> - -<h3><i>Friday, 12th.</i></h3> - -<p>We all breakfasted early together, and immediately after breakfast got -into an open carriage and set off for Trenton. D—— and my father sat -beside each other, and I opposite them; Mr. —— on the box; and so we -progressed. The day was bright and breezy: the country was all smiling -round us in rich beauty; the ripening<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span> sheets of waving grain; the -sloping fields, with here and there the grey tomb-stone of a forest -tree; the vivid thickets bounding the pale harvest plots; the -silvery-looking fences, with their irregular lines relieved against the -dark woods; the clear sky above; all was lovely. About seven miles from -Utica, we stopped to water the horses at a lonely road-side house: we -alighted, and without ceremony strolled into the garden,—a mere -wilderness of overgrown sweet briar, faint breathing dog-roses, and -flaunting red poppies, overshadowed by some orchard trees, from which we -stole sundry half-ripe cherries. The place was desolate, I believe; yet -we lingered in it, and did not think it so. We got into the carriage -again: the remaining eight miles of our journey were as beautiful and as -bad as the preceding ones had been. I thought of our dark drive back -through these miry and uneven ways. At last we reached the house at -which visiters to the Falls put up; a large comfortable dwelling enough, -kept by a couple of nice young people, who live in this solitude all the -year round, and maintain themselves and a beautiful big baby by the -profits they derive from the pilgrims to Trenton. We ordered dinner, and -set forth to the Falls, with our host for guide. We crossed a small wood -immediately adjoining the house, and, descending several flights of -steps connected by paths in the rocky bank, we presently stood on the -brink of the channel, where the water was boiling along, deep, and -black, and passing away like time. We followed along the rocky edge: the -path is not more than a foot wide, and is worn into all manner of -unevenness and cavities, and slippery with the eternal falling of the -spray. —— walked before me: we dared not turn our heads, for fear of -tumbling into the black whirlpool below. We walked on steadily, warning -each other at every step, and presently we arrived at the first fall, -where the rest of our party were halting. I can't describe it: I don't -know either its height or width; I only know it was extremely beautiful, -and came pouring down like a great rolling heap of amber. The rocks -around are high to the heavens, scooped, and singularly regular; and the -sides of the torrent are every now and then paved with large smooth -layers of rock, as even and regular in their proportions as if the -fairies had done the work. After standing before the tumbling mass of -water for a length of time, we climbed to the brink above, and went on. -Mr. —— flung himself down under a roof of rock by the waterfall. My -father, D——, and the guide, went<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span> on out of sight, and —— and I -loitered by the rapid waters, flinging light branches and flowers upon -the blood-coloured torrent, that whirled, and dragged, and tossed them -down to the plunge beneath. When we came to the beautiful circular fall, -we crept down to a narrow ridge, and sat with our feet hanging over the -black caldron, just opposite a vivid rainbow that was clasping the -waterfall. We sat here till I began to grow dizzy with the sound and -motion of the churning darkness beneath us, and begged to move, which we -did very cautiously. I was in an agony lest we should slip from the -narrow dripping ledges along which we crawled. We wandered on, and -stopped again at another fall, upon a rocky shelf overhanging the -torrent, beside the blasted and prostrate trunk of a large tree. I was -tired with walking, and —— was lifting me up to seat me on the fallen -tree, when we saw Mr. —— coming slowly towards us. He stopped and -spoke to us, and presently passed on; we remained behind, talking, and -dipping our hands into the fresh water. At length we rejoined the whole -party, sitting by a narrow channel, where the water looked like ink. -Beyond this our guide said it was impossible to go: I was for -ascertaining this by myself, but my father forbade me to attempt the -passage further. I was thirsty; and the guide having given me a -beautiful strawberry and a pale blue-bell, that he had found, like a -couple of jewels in some dark crevice of the rocks, I devoured the one, -and then going down to the black water's edge, we dipped the fairy cup -in, and drank the cold clear water, with which abundant draught I -relieved my father's thirst also.<a name="FNanchor_103_103" id="FNanchor_103_103"></a><a href="#Footnote_103_103" class="fnanchor">[103]</a> Around the place where we were -resting, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span> rocks rose like circular walls up to the very sky. From -their overhanging edges, tiny threads of water fell upon the rocky -pavement beneath, with a silver glancing, and a clear plashing tone, -that sounded even amid the hoarse talking of the dark waters below. In -some mould among these cliffs, at their very highest edge, a tree had -struck its roots, and, growing upside down, stretched its drooping green -arms to the hurrying stream below, that would not tarry. We had walked, -I suppose, a mile and a half along the water's side, and in this -distance its course is broken by six beautiful cataracts. The variety of -the colour of the water, occasioned by the various depths of its -channel, and the different tints of the rocks over which it flows, is -singular. Where the river expands, its rapid broken waves were of the -darkest red-brown, like coffee; or rather, indeed, redder than that, -like a deep blood colour: reaching the walls of rock, over which they -fall into a lower bed, they became pouring masses of amber and diamonds, -or soft thick heaps of whitest foam; and then again, in the deep narrow -channels which received their headlong leaping, all was black as -blackest night, and the waters were sucked away under the hollow rocks -in inky eddies, that made me think of drowning with double horror. The -several falls are very various in their height and forms, but they are -all beautiful, most beautiful; not a place to visit for a day, but to -live the summer away in.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>When we were all rested, we rose to retrace our steps: our guide was a -man of some cultivation, and of much natural refinement, with a strong -feeling of the exquisite beauty of the scenes in which he was living.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span> -These falls are upon his own land, belong to him, and he pointed out to -us a spot beside the torrent where, he said, he had read all Byron's -works: this pleased me. Returning, I thought the path even more -difficult than it was before: there is a chain fastened along the rock -where it narrows, for the security of persons walking: this has been put -up since the lamentable loss of a young girl, who, following her party -along this slippery path, missed her footing, and was swept into a -foaming whirlpool, whence nothing could ever emerge. Our guide told us -of another terrible accident, which happened not long before we were -there. A young lady and her lover were going along the water side, and, -in order to retain hold of her hand, he walked upon a narrow ridge, -where he could hardly balance himself: the girl said, "Oh, if you walk -there, I shall let you go:" she did so, and in the same instant he -slipped from the rock and was dragged away to that dark death.<a name="FNanchor_104_104" id="FNanchor_104_104"></a><a href="#Footnote_104_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a></p> - -<p>The chain upon the rock was about as high as my shoulder; but when the -river is swollen, it constantly rises above the chain: at which time, it -is scarce possible to go any distance along its banks. This had been the -case a short time before we were there. We returned to the house, and -dined. After dinner, had a gossip with Mrs. ——, and a romp with her -beautiful baby. I strolled into the garden: it was in disorder, and -looked like a wilderness; but I saw some roses drooping their full -bosoms to the earth, and I went to fetch them. Our host came with me: he -said he had but little leisure to cultivate his garden, and could not -well afford to have it kept in better order; that it supplied them with -nearly all they required; and that, with his other occupations, he had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span> -hardly time to make it more than useful. I questioned him about the -number of visiters who came to the falls. He said in summer there was a -constant succession of them; but that in winter no one came there. Upon -my expressing some surprise that people did not come, and remain for -some weeks at least, in so beautiful a place, he told me that the -generality of visiters were quite satisfied with an hour's stroll by the -water; and that some had arrived at his door, alighted from their -carriage, dined, sauntered round the house, and, <i>without even going -down to the river</i>, returned to Utica quite satisfied with having been -at Trenton. I was amazed. But the utter insensibility of the generality -of Americans to the beauty and sublimity of nature is nothing short of -amazing; and in this respect they literally appear to me to want a -sense. I have been filled with astonishment and perplexity at the total -indifference with which they behold scenes of grandeur and loveliness, -that any creature, with half a soul, would gaze at with feelings almost -of adoration. But in these glorious tabernacles of nature, where God's -majesty seems, as it were, visibly resting on his works, I have seen -Americans come and stare, and stand for a moment, and depart again, -apparently impressed with nothing but the singularity of the man or -woman who could remain there longer than they did. What can be the cause -of this?—Is it possible that a perception of the beautiful in nature is -a result of artificial cultivation?—is it that the grovelling -narrowness of the usual occupations to which the majority addict -themselves has driven out of them the fine spirit, which is God's altar -in men's souls?—is it that they become incapable of beauty? Wretched -people! They remind me, by contrast, as I see them toiling along the -crowded streets of their cities, those dens of Mammon, of Wordsworth's -noble description of him</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>"Who walk'd in glory and in joy,</div> -<div>Behind his plough, upon the mountain side."</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>At about sunset, I wandered into the wood, to the top of the steps -leading to the waterfall; where I could hear, far below, its sweet voice -singing as it passed away. I remained standing here till the carriage -was announced. Just before we went away, our host gave me a small piece -of crystal. It is found among the rocks here, which, I believe, present<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span> -many curious geological phenomena, which I leave to the learned to -describe. The strata are the most beautifully regular possible; and, -upon their broad smooth surfaces, a thousand theories sit; which I hope -I did not disturb, as I walked over them in the plenitude of my -ignorance, admiring God's masonry. Oh, fair world!—oh, strange, and -beautiful, and holy places—where one's soul meets one in silence—and -where one's thoughts arise, with the everlasting incense of the waters, -from the earth, which is <i>His</i> footstool, to the heavens, which are -<i>His</i> throne. It grew dark long before we reached Utica: half the way I -sang; the other half I slept, in spite of ruts five fathoms deep, and -all the joltings of these evil ways. To-morrow we start on our way to -Niagara; which, Mr. —— says, is to sweep Trenton clean from our -memories. I do not think it.</p> - -<h3><i>Saturday, 13th.</i></h3> - -<p>Left Utica at six o'clock, in our exclusive extra: we were to go on as -far as Auburn, a distance of seventy-six miles. The day was very -beautiful, but extremely hot. At Vernon, where we stopped to breakfast, -we overtook the ——s: we had a very good breakfast; and, I think, for -the first time since our land journey from Baltimore to Philadelphia, -last winter, we were waited on by women. Found a case of musical -glasses: sat on the floor, in great delight, amusing myself with them, -while the stage was getting ready, —— and I began wandering about; but -the place did not look promising, and the heat was intense. We sat -ourselves down under the piazza of the tavern, and I gave him the words -of "To that lone Well." In about an hour we set off again. The country -was very rich and beautiful; and, at every knoll, backed by woodlands, -and skirted by golden grain fields, Mr. —— exclaimed, "Come, we will -have a farm here." He and my father were to smoke, reflect, and enjoy -life; I was to sing, whenever I happened to please, and enjoy life too; -D—— was to brew, to bake, wash, iron, plough, manage the house, look -after the cattle, take care of the poultry, mind the dairy; in short, do -every thing on earth that was to be done, and enjoy life too: all which -arrangements afforded us matter of converse on the way, and much -amusement. Then my father and Mr. —— had long argumentations about -acting: the latter is a vehement admirer of Kean; and of course, that -being the case, matter of debate was not wanting. It was all <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span>extremely -pleasant and profitable; and while the sun shone, and we all kept our -tempers, nothing could do better. —— amused me by telling me portions -of ——'s book, the Adventures of a younger Son, with which he had been -extremely charmed; and which I remember beginning on board ship, as we -crossed from England.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>At about half-past three, we arrived at a place called -<i>Syracuse</i>!!!—where, stopping to change horses, my father observed that -here there were two different routes to our point of destination; and -desired our driver to take that which passes through Skaneateles, a very -beautiful village, situated on a lake so called. However, to this the -master of the inn, who was also, I believe, proprietor of the coach, -seemed to have some private objection; and while my father was yet -speaking, very coolly shut the coach door in his face, and desired the -driver to go on in the contrary direction. The insolence of the fellow -enraged my father extremely; and it was rather astonishing, that's the -fact: but the deuce is in't if, in a free country, a man may not choose -which way his own coach shall go, in spite of the folk who pay him for -the use of it. We had to pocket the affront; and, what was much more -disagreeable, to travel an ugly uninteresting road, instead of a -picturesque and pretty one. We had not proceeded many miles after this -occurrence, and were just recovering our equanimities, when the said -vehicle broke down. We were not overturned or hurt, only tilted a little -on one side. The driver, however, did not seem to think it safe to -proceed in this condition: the gentlemen got out, and searched the -hedges and thickets for a piece of oak sufficiently strong and stout to -repair, at least for the moment, the damage: we were not at the time -within reach of any house. At last, they procured what they wanted; and, -having propped up the carriage after the best fashion they could, we -proceeded at a foot pace to the next village. Here, while they were -putting our conveyance into something like better order, —— and I -wandered away to a pretty bright water-course, which, like all water in -this country, was made to turn a mill. The coach being made sound once -more, we packed ourselves into it, and progressed. The evening was -perfectly sultry. I never shall forget, at a place where we stopped to -water the horses, a cart-full of wretched sheep and calves, who were, I -suppose, on their way to the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span>slaughterhouse, but who, in the mean time, -seemed enduring the most horrible torture that creatures can suffer. -They were jammed into the cart so as to be utterly incapable of moving a -single limb; the pitiless sun shone fiercely upon their wretched heads, -and their poor eyes were full of dust and flies. I never saw so -miserable a spectacle of suffering. I looked at the brutal-looking man -that was driving them, and wondered whether he would go to hell, for -tormenting these helpless beasts in this fashion.</p> - -<p>The sun set gloriously. Mr. —— began talking about Greece, and, -getting a good deal excited, presently burst forth into "The isles of -Greece! the isles of Greece!" which he recited with amazing vehemence -and earnestness. He reminded me of Kean several times: while he was -declaiming, he looked like a tiger. 'Tis strange, or, rather, 'tis not -strange, 'tis but natural, how, in spite of the contempt and even hatred -which he often expresses for England, and every thing connected with it, -his thoughts and plans, and all the energies of his mind, seem for ever -bent upon changes to be wrought in England—freer government, purer -laws, more equal rights. He began to talk about Cromwell: he wanted, he -said, to have a play written out of Cromwell's life. We talked the -matter over with infinite zeal, and established most satisfactorily, -that to accomplish such a thing, as it ought to be done, would be quite -one of the most difficult tasks in the world. Nobody but a religious and -political enthusiast could do it: a poet, unless himself a republican -Englishman, and fanatical sectarian, hardly could: it must be unlike all -other works of art—not an imitation of truth, but truth itself. -Schiller is the only man I can imagine who could have attempted it with -any chance of success: and I even doubt whether he would have made of it -the firebrand our friend wants.<a name="FNanchor_105_105" id="FNanchor_105_105"></a><a href="#Footnote_105_105" class="fnanchor">[105]</a> Towards evening the heat became<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> -more and more oppressive. Our coach was but ill cobbled, and leaned -awfully to one side. I fell asleep lying in my father's lap; and when we -reached Auburn, which was not until nine o'clock, I was so tired, so -miserably sleepy, and so tortured with the side-ach, from the cramped -position in which I had been lying, that I just crawled into the first -room in the inn where we alighted, and dropped down on the floor fast -asleep. They roused me for supper; and very soon after I betook myself -to bed. The heat was intolerable; the pale feet of the summer lightning -ran along the black edges of the leaden clouds,—the world was alight -with it. I could not sleep: I never endured such suffocating heat.</p> - -<h3><i>Sunday, 14th.</i></h3> - -<p>Rose at eight: the morning was already sultry as the hottest noon in -England. After breakfast, I wandered about the house in search of shade; -went into an empty room, opened the shutters, and got out upon a large -piazza, or rather colonnade, which surrounded it. The side I had chosen -was defended by the house from the fierce sunlight; and I walked up and -down in quiet and loneliness for some time. Not far from the house stood -the prison, one of the state prisons of the country; a large grey -building, which appeared like a huge block of granite, unsheltered by a -single tree or bush, and dim with the hazy heat of the atmosphere. Being -Sunday, we were not able to visit it; but the person who kept the house -where we were, a very intelligent and civil man, gave us some account of -it, and fully corroborated the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span> fact which Stuart mentions,—that when -the prison took fire, and all the criminals confined in it were -liberated to assist in saving the building, in spite of the general -confusion and total absence of restraint or observation, which for some -time left them the most easy opportunity of escape, not one of them took -advantage of this accident to recover their liberty, but every prisoner -returned voluntarily, after the fire was got under, to his cell. This -seems miraculous, and speaks more for the excellence of the system -pursued in these establishments than all the disquisitions in the world. -At about ten, our exclusive extra having driven to the door, we packed -ourselves into it, and proceeded towards Geneva, where we were to dine. -The sky, however, presently became overcast; and, towards noon, the -world was absolutely shrouded in a lead-coloured pall. The air was -stifling: it was impossible to draw one's breath; and a quarter of a -degree more of heat would certainly have occasioned suffocation. We were -all gasping. Suddenly the red lightning tore open the heavy clouds, the -thunder rolled round the heavens, the rain came down in torrents: we -were away from all shelter, and obliged to proceed through the storm. -The leather curtains of our coach were speedily unrolled and buttoned -down; but this formed but a miserable shelter against the furious rain. -Our carpet bags, which were on the outside of the carriage, were soaked -through; and we ourselves were soon in nearly as bad a plight. The rain -came in rivulets through the crevices of our insufficient shelter, and -the seats and bottom of the coach were presently standing pools. We -arrived between twelve and one o'clock at Cayuga; and here we drew up -before the inn door, to await the end of the storm. The rain was still -so violent, that we preferred remaining in the coach to getting out and -being still more thoroughly drenched. The thunder growled sulkily at a -distance, and the lightning glared rapidly from side to side. By -degrees, the over-swollen clouds, having emptied themselves, rolled -away; the rain became less violent; the mist and heavy vapour parted -from off the face of the earth, and the lake appeared blending with the -sky amid the indistinct and hazy outlines of the half-shrouded country. -While we were sitting listening to the storm, silence had fallen upon us -all: a thunderstorm is apt to prove an interruption to conversation. -During this pause, Mr. —— took out his pencil, and wrote upon a scrap -of paper a very eloquent Mahomedan description of the attributes of God. -I do<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span> not know whether it was his own, or an authentic Mahomedan -document: it was sublime.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>The storm having abated, we proceeded on our way; crossed a bridge a -mile and some roods long, over the Cayuga lake; which, however, was -still so veiled with scowling mist and clouds, that we could discern -none of its features. At about three o'clock we reached Geneva, a small -town situated on a lake called Seneca Water. Here we dined. —— had -most providentially brought silver forks with him: for the wretched -two-pronged iron implements furnished us by our host were any thing but -clean or convenient. After dinner, the weather having become mild and -bright, we went up to a piazza on the second floor, which overlooked the -lake and its banks: the latter are very picturesque; and the town -itself, climbing in terraces along the side of a steep acclivity, rising -from the water, has a very good effect. The lake at this point did not -appear very wide; for we could distinguish, from where we stood, minute -objects on the opposite shore.</p> - -<p>After resting ourselves for a short time, we again took to our coach, -and pursued our route towards Canandaigua, where we were to pass the -night. The afternoon was bright and beautiful, the road tolerable, and -the country through which we passed fertile and smiling.</p> - -<p>As the evening began to come on, we reached Canandaigua Lake, a very -beautiful sheet of water, of considerable extent; we coasted for some -time close along its very margin. The opposite shore was high, clothed -with wood, from amidst which here and there a white house looked -peacefully down on the clear mirror below: the dead themselves can -hardly inhabit regions more blessedly apart from the evil turmoil of the -world, than the inhabitants of these beautiful solitudes.<a name="FNanchor_106_106" id="FNanchor_106_106"></a><a href="#Footnote_106_106" class="fnanchor">[106]</a></p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span></p><p>Leaving the water's edge, we proceeded about a quarter of a mile, and -found ourselves at the door of the inn at Canandaigua, the principal -among some houses surrounding an open turfed space, like an English -village green, across which ran the high road. My father, Mr. ——, and -I went up to a sort of observatory at the top of the house, from whence -the view was perfectly enchanting. The green below, screened on three -sides with remarkably fine poplar trees, and surrounded by neat white -houses, reminded me of some retired spot in my own dear country.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span> -Opposite us, the land rose with a gentle wooded swell; and to the left, -the lake spread itself to meet the horizon. A fresh breeze blew over the -earth, most grateful after the intense heat of the morning, and the sky -was all strewed with faint rosy clouds, melting away one by one into -violet wreaths, among which the early evening star glittered cold and -clear.</p> - -<p>We came down to supper, which was served to us, as usual, in a large -desolate-looking public room. After this, we came to the sitting-room -they had provided for us, a small comfortable apartment, with a very -finely-toned piano in it. To this I forthwith sat down, and played and -sang for a length of time: late in the evening, I left the instrument, -and my father, Mr. ——, and I took a delightful stroll under the -colonnade, discussing Milton; many passages of which my father recited -most beautifully, to my infinite delight and ecstasy. By and by they -went in, and —— came out to walk with me.</p> - -<p>Certainly this climate is the most treacherous imaginable: the heat this -morning had been intolerable, and to-night a piercing cold wind had -arisen, that would have rendered winter clothing by no means -superfluous. We walked rapidly up and down, till the bleak blast became -so keen, that we were glad to take refuge in the house. Our unfortunate -carpet bags and their contents are literally drenched: many of my goods -and chattels will never recover this ablution; among others, I am sorry -to say, ——'s beautiful satchel.</p> - -<h3><i>Monday, 15th.</i></h3> - -<p>Our breakfast, which was extremely comfortable and clean, was served to -us in our private room; a singular favour: one, I hope, which will -become a custom as the country is travelled through by greater numbers. -Before breakfast, D—— had been taking a walk about the pretty village, -and trying to beg, borrow, or steal some flowers for me. The master of -the inn, however, succeeded better than she did; for he presently made -his appearance with a very beautiful and fragrant nosegay, which I -found, to my utter dismay, had been levied from a gentleman's private -garden in my name. My horror was excessive at this, and was scarcely -diminished when I discovered, upon enquiry, that they had been gathered -from Mr. ——'s garden; that gentleman having large property and a fine -residence here. He was not in Canandaigua <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span>himself; but, as we drove -past his house, I left cards for his lady, who must have thought my -demand on her green-house one of the greatest impertinencies extant. It -was nine o'clock when we left Canandaigua: we were all a little done up -with our two previous days; and it was unanimously settled that we -should proceed only to Rochester, a distance of between thirty and forty -miles, which we accomplished by two o'clock.</p> - -<p>Rochester, upon whose site, I understand, twenty years ago there stood -hardly a house, is now a large and populous manufacturing town. The -progress of life in this country is amazing. From day to day the -wilderness becomes inhabited, peopled, civilised; and where yesterday -the majestic woods were standing, and the silent waters gliding in all -the solemn solitude of unexplored nature, to-day the sound of the forge -and anvil is heard, the busy feet of men pass and repass, their mingled -voices resound, their dwellings arise; the wheels of a thousand -mechanical miracles clash, creak, and jar; the vapours of a thousand -steam-engines mingle with the hitherto lonely clouds; and the huge fins -of a thousand steam-boats beat the waters, carrying over their hitherto -undisturbed surface the vast produce of industry. The labours, the arts, -the knowledge, the wealth, the wonders of education and civilisation! It -is something that fills one with admiration, in the old, and eke the -new, sense of the word.</p> - -<p>The inn at which we alighted was large and comfortable: in the -drawing-room I found a very tolerable piano-forte, to which I instantly -betook myself. By the time we had seen our bed-rooms, and ordered -dinner, we found we should have leisure, before it was ready, to walk to -the falls of the Genesee (the river on which Rochester stands), which -have some celebrity for their beauty. A man from the hotel volunteered -to be our guide, and joined our party. We walked up the main street, -which was crowded and full of business. From this, presently turning -off, we followed a wider road, with houses and pretty flower gardens on -each side, and reached, after half a mile's walk, a meadow skirted by a -deep ravine, through which the river ran; from whence we looked -immediately upon the falls. They would be, and were, I doubt not, once -beautiful; for the barrier of rock, over which the river throws itself -into the valley below, is of considerable breadth and height; but, alas! -the waters have been turned off to turn mills, and a thin curtain, which -falls over the rocks like a vapoury sheet of blue smoke, is all that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span> -remains of the Genesee falls; whilst, from a thousand dingy-looking -mills and manufactories, the poor little rivulets of labouring water -come rushing through narrow dirty channels, all stained and foaming and -hot from their work, to throw themselves into the thin bosom of their -parent stream. Truly, mills and steam-engines are wonderful things, and -I know that men must live; but I wish it were not expedient to destroy -what God has made so very beautiful, in order to make it useful. Our -guide perceiving our admiration was a good deal excited by the -picturesque beauty of the scene, fell into a species of rhapsody, which -terminated thus: "Yes, sir, when I see the waters thus falling <i>from the -bottom to the top</i>; I say, sir, when I look at the water falling from -<i>the bottom to the top</i>, I can compare it to -nothing—but—but—but—wool out of a cotton-mill!" This was an -unlooked-for climax, and gave us all a violent inclination to laugh in -the face of the orator; which, however, would have been exceedingly -wrong; for so sincere was the good man in his enthusiasm, that he was -not in the least aware of the miraculous proceeding which he twice, with -much emphasis, ascribed to the <i>upward falling</i> water.<a name="FNanchor_107_107" id="FNanchor_107_107"></a><a href="#Footnote_107_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a></p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>We waited in this meadow for the passing of a train of rail-road -carriages, which run between Rochester and a small village about three -miles distant, where the river was said to be very beautiful. We hailed -them as they went by, and proceeded in them to their destination. The -view itself, from this point, though romantic and pretty, was scarce -worth going out of the way for; the walk back, however, was delightful. -The river runs here through a deep gully, the banks rising precipitously -above a hundred feet on each side of it. On one side they are -beautifully and thickly wooded; the other presents a bare wall of -reddish rock<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span> lying in very regular strata. About a mile and a half -below the falls, the channel of the river contracts itself, and the -water, forcing its way through some irregular rocky projections, forms a -very pretty miniature cataract. We walked along the high margin of the -glen, upon some very thick soft turf, looking down upon the deep bed of -the water, and enjoying a delicious fresh breeze. 'Tis curious enough, -that upon this strip of turf, close to the high road, under the shelter -of a group of trees, we found a couple of tomb-stones. They were -carefully railed round, and bore the names of a man and his wife, -without, however, assigning any cause for their choice of a burial-place -so public and unhallowed. The last mile of our walk was by no means so -agreeable as the previous part had been. Nearing the town, we had to -leave the brink of the river and follow the dusty track of the -rail-road. When we reached Rochester, we dined; after which I went and -lay down, and slept till tea-time. When I came down to tea, found the -gentlemen profoundly busied: —— writing home, Mr. —— journalising, -my father poring over maps and road-books, to find out if we could not -possibly get as far as Niagara to-morrow.</p> - -<h3><i>Tuesday, 16th.</i></h3> - -<p>Had to get up before I'd half done my sleep. At six, started from -Rochester for Murray, where we purposed breakfasting. Just as we were -nearing the inn, at this same place, our driver took it into his head to -give us a taste of his quality. We were all earnestly engaged in a -discussion, when suddenly I felt a tremendous sort of stunning blow, and -as soon as I opened my eyes, found that the coach was overturned, lying -completely on its side. I was very comfortably curled up under my -father, who, by Heaven's mercy, did not suffocate me; opposite sat -D——, as white as a ghost, with her forehead cut open, and an -awful-looking stream of blood falling from it; by her stood Mr. ——, -also as pale as ashes: —— was perched like a bird above us all, on the -edge of the doorway, which was open. The first thing I did, was to cry -as loud as ever I could, "I'm not hurt, I'm not hurt!" which assurance I -shouted sufficiently lustily to remove all anxiety from their minds. The -next thing was to get my father up; in accomplishing which, he trampled -upon me most cruelly. As soon as I was relieved from his mountainous -pressure, I got up, and saw, to my dismay, two men carrying Mr. —— -into the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span> house. We were all convinced that some of his limbs were -broken: I ran after as quickly as I could, and presently the house was -like an hospital. They carried him into an upper room, and laid him on a -bed; here, too, they brought D——, all white and bleeding. Our -hand-baskets and bags were ransacked for salts and eau de Cologne. Cold -water, hot water, towels, and pocket handkerchiefs, were called into -requisition; and I, with my clothes all torn, and one shoulder all -bruised and cut, went from the one to the other in utter dismay. -Presently, to my great relief, Mr. —— revived; and gave ample -testimony of having the use of his limbs, by getting up, and, in the -most skilful manner, plastering poor D——'s broken brow up. —— went -in quest of my father, who had received a violent blow on his leg, and -was halting about, looking after the baggage and the driver, who had -escaped unhurt.<a name="FNanchor_108_108" id="FNanchor_108_108"></a><a href="#Footnote_108_108" class="fnanchor">[108]</a> The chief cause of our misfortune was the economy -with which the stage-coaches are constructed in this thrifty land; that -is, they have but one door, and, of course, are obliged to be turned -round much oftener than if they had two: in wheeling us, therefore, -rapidly up to the inn, and turning the coach with the side that had a -door towards the house, we swung over, and fell. While the coach was -being repaired, and the horses changed, we, bound up, bruised, and -aching, but still very merry, sat down to breakfast. Mr. ——, who had -been merely stunned, seized on the milk and honey, and stuffed away with -great zeal: poor D—— was the most deplorable of the party, with a -bloody handkerchief bound over one half her face; I only ached a little, -and I believe —— escaped with a scratch on his finger; so, seeing it -was no worse, we thanked God, and devoured. After breakfast, we packed -ourselves again in our vehicle, and progressed. Mr. —— had procured -for me a bunch of flowers; and I amused myself with making a wreath of -them. Our route lay over<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</a></span> what is called the Ridge road; a very -remarkable tract, pursuing a high embankment, which was once the -boundary of Lake Ontario; though the waters are now distant from it -upwards of seven miles. The theories of the geologists respecting the -former position of the lake are very singular; though borne out by -similar instances of natural convulsions, and also by the very features -of the land. The country through which we journeyed to-day was wilder -and less cultivated than any we have yet seen. A great deal of forest -land, consisting of close, thin, tall, second-growth, springing around -the stump of many a huge tree; thick tangled underwood; marsh and damp -green wilderness, where the grass and bushes trailed about in rank -luxuriance; and piles of felled timber, with here and there a root yet -smoking, bore witness to the first inroads of human cultivation. None of -the trees that were standing were of any girth, or comparable in size -and beauty to our park trees; but some of the stumps were of large size, -and must have been the foundations of noble forest pillars. Our road, -after leaving the Ridge road, was horrible: for some length of time -before we reached Lockport, we were dragged over what is called a -<i>corduroy road</i>; which consists merely of logs of wood laid close to -each other, the natural inequalities of which produce a species of -jolting incomparably superior to any other I ever felt, and -administering but little comfort either to our bruised bones or -apprehensive nerves.</p> - -<p>We reached Lockport at about four o'clock. There had been rain in the -course of the morning, but the evening was clear, though very cold. The -appearance of Lockport is very singular: a collection of new white -houses, that look as though they were but this instant finished, -standing in a half-cleared wilderness. All round the town, if such it -may be called, stretch the remains of the once pathless woods, half -cleared, half savage-looking yet; and, as far as the eye can reach, the -country presents a series of dreary slopes, covered with prostrate -trees, heaps of hewn timber, smoking stumps, and blackened trunks—a -sort of forest stubble-land—a very desolate-looking thing indeed. The -house where we stopped appeared to be hardly finished. We ordered -dinner, and I forthwith began kindling a fire, which was extremely -welcome to us all. I was very much bruised with our morning's overturn, -and went and lay down in my bed-room, where I presently slept -profoundly.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span></p> - -<h3><i>Wednesday, 17th.</i></h3> - -<p>At nine o'clock, we started from Lockport: before doing so, however, we -went down to the canal side to look at the works, which are here very -curious and interesting. —— ran into a bookseller's shop, and got -——'s book for me, which he was going to pounce upon without knowing -what it was; and ——, for some reasons best known to himself, snatched -it away from him, saying it was a book which he was sure he would not -like. The road between Lockport and Lewistown is very pretty; and we got -out and walked whenever the horses were changed. At one place where we -stopped, I saw a meek-eyed, yellowish-white cart-horse, standing with a -man's saddle on his back. The opportunity was irresistible, and the -desire too—I had not backed a horse for so long. So I got up upon the -amazed quadruped, woman's fashion, and took a gallop through the fields, -with infinite risk of falling off, and proportionate satisfaction. We -reached Lewistown at about noon, and anxious enquiries were instituted -as to how our luggage was to be forwarded, when on the other side; for -we were <i>exclusive extras</i>; and for creatures so above common fellowship -there is no accommodation in this levelling land. A ferry and a -ferry-boat, however, it appeared, there were, and thither we made our -way. While we were waiting for the boat, I climbed out on the branches -of a huge oak, which grew over the banks of the river, which here rise -nearly a hundred feet high. Thus comfortably perched, like a bird, -'twixt heaven and earth, I copied off some verses which I had scrawled -just before leaving Lockport. The ferry-boat being at length procured, -we got into it. The day was sultry; the heat intolerable.</p> - -<p>The water of this said river Niagara is of a most peculiar colour, like -a turquoise when it turns green. It was like a thick stream of -verdigris, full of pale milky streaks, whirls, eddies, and -counter-currents, and looked as if it were running up by one bank, and -down by the other. I sat in the sun, on the floor of the boat, revising -my verses.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * *</p> - -<p>Arrived on the other side, <i>i. e.</i> Canada, there was a second pause, as -to how we were to get conveyed to the Falls. My father, ——, and D—— -betook themselves to an inn by the road-side, which promised<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span> -information and assistance; and —— and I, clambering up the heights of -Queenston, sat ourselves down under some bushes, whence we looked -towards Lake Ontario, and where he told me the history of the place; how -his countrymen had thumped my countrymen upon this spot, and how the -English general Brock had fallen near where we sat. A monument, in the -shape of a stone pillar, has been erected to his memory; and to the top -of this —— betook himself to reconnoitre; which ambitious expedition I -felt no inclination to share. After he had been gone some time, I -thought I perceived signs of stirring down by the inn door: I toiled up -the hill to the base of the pillar to fetch him, and we proceeded down -to the rest of the party. An uneasy-looking rickety cart without springs -was the sole conveyance we could obtain, and into this we packed -ourselves. —— brought me some beautiful roses, which he had been -stealing for me, and —— gave me a glass of milk; with which -restoratives I comforted myself, and we set forth. As we squeaked and -creaked (I mean our vehicle) up the hill, I thought either my father's -or ——'s weight quite enough to have broken the whole down; but it did -not happen. My mind was eagerly dwelling on what we were going to see: -that sight which —— said was the only one in the world which had not -disappointed him. I felt absolutely nervous with expectation. The sound -of the cataract is, they say, heard within fifteen miles when the wind -sets favourably: to-day, however, there was no wind; the whole air was -breathless with the heat of midsummer, and, though we stopped our waggon -once or twice to listen as we approached, all was profoundest silence. -There was no motion in the leaves of the trees, not a cloud sailing in -the sky; every thing was as though in a bright warm death. When we were -within about three miles of the Falls, just before entering the village -of Niagara, —— stopped the waggon; and then we heard distinctly, -though far off, the voice of the mighty cataract. Looking over the -woods, which appeared to overhang the course of the river, we beheld one -silver cloud rising slowly into the sky,—the everlasting incense of the -waters. A perfect frenzy of impatience seized upon me: I could have set -off and run the whole way; and when at length the carriage stopped at -the door of the Niagara house, waiting neither for my father, D——, nor -——, I rushed through the hall, and the garden, down the steep footpath -cut in the rocks. I heard steps behind me; —— was following me: down, -down I sprang, and along the narrow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span> footpath, divided only by a thicket -from the tumultuous rapids. I saw through the boughs the white glimmer -of that sea of foam. "Go on, go on; don't stop," shouted ——; and in -another minute the thicket was passed: I stood upon Table Rock. —— -seized me by the arm, and, without speaking a word, dragged me to the -edge of the rapids, to the brink of the abyss. I saw Niagara.—Oh, God! -who can describe that sight?</p> - -<p class="center space-above">THE END.</p> - -<hr /> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3 class="center">FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> I do not know how it is to be accounted for, but in spite -of much lighter duties, every article of dress, particularly silks, -embroideries, and all French manufactures, are more expensive here than -in England. The extravagance of the American women in this part of their -expenditure is, considering the average fortunes of this country, quite -extraordinary. They never walk in the streets but in the most showy and -extreme toilet, and I have known twenty, forty, and sixty dollars paid -for a bonnet to wear in a morning saunter up Broadway.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> These are the titles of three omnibuses which run up and -down Broadway all the day long.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> The New Yorkers have begun to see the evil of their ways, -as far as regards their carriage-road in Broadway,—which is now partly -Macadamised. It is devoutly to be hoped, that the worthy authorities -will soon have as much compassion on the feet of their fellow-citizens, -as they have begun to have for their brutes.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The roughness and want of refinement, which is legitimately -complained of in this country is often however mitigated by instances of -civility, which would not be found commonly elsewhere. As I have noticed -above, the demeanour of men towards women in the streets is infinitely -more courteous here than with us; women can walk, too, with perfect -safety, by themselves, either in New York, Philadelphia, or Boston: on -board the steam-boats no person sits down to table until the ladies are -accommodated with seats; and I have myself in church benefited by the -civility of men who have left their pew, and stood, during the whole -service, in order to afford me room.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Saw a woman riding to-day; but she has gotten a black -velvet beret upon her head.—Only think of a beret on horseback! The -horses here are none of them properly broken: their usual pace being a -wrong-legged half-canter, or a species of shambling trot, denominated, -with infinite justice, a <i>rack</i>. They are all broken with snaffles -instead of curbs, carry their noses out, and pull horribly; I have not -yet seen a decent rider, either man or woman.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> The spirit of independence, which is the common atmospheric -air of America, penetrates into the churches, as well as elsewhere. In -Boston, I have heard the Apostles' Creed mutilated and altered; once by -the omission of the passage "descended into hell," and another time, by -the substitution of the words "descended into the place of departed -spirits."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Unfortunately this precaution does not fulfil its purpose; -universal suffrage is a political fallacy: and will be one of the -stumbling-blocks in the path of this country's greatness. I do not mean -that it will lessen her wealth, or injure her commercial and financial -resources; but it will be an insuperable bar to the progress of mental -and intellectual cultivation—'tis a plain case of action and reaction. -If the mass, <i>i. e.</i> the inferior portion, (for when was the mass not -inferior?) elect their own governors, they will of course elect an -inferior class of governors, and the government of such men will be an -inferior government; that it may be just, honest, and rational, I do not -dispute; but that it ever will be enlarged, liberal, and highly -enlightened, I do not, and cannot, believe.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> I do not know whether his honour the Recorder's information -applied only to the state of New York, or included all the others; 'tis -not one of the least strange features which this strange political -process, the American government, presents, that each state is governed -by its own laws; thus forming a most involved and complicated whole, -where each part has its own individual machinery; or, to use a more -celestial phraseology, its own particular system.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Whoever pretends to write any account of "Men and Manners" -in America must expect to find his own work give him the lie in less -than six months; for both men and manners are in so rapid a state of -progress that no record of their ways of being and doing would be found -correct at the expiration of that term, however much so at the period of -its writing. Broadway is not only partly Macadamised since first we -arrived here, but there are actually to be seen in it now two or three -carriages of decent build, with hammercloths, foot-boards, and even once -or twice lately I have seen footmen standing on those foot-boards!!!</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Perhaps one reason for the perfect coolness with which a -fire is endured in New York is the dexterity and courage of the firemen: -they are, for the most part, respectable tradesmen's sons, who enlist in -this service, rather than the militia; and the vigilance and activity -with which their duty is discharged deserves the highest praise.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> I have lately read Goethe's Wilhelm Meister. In that -wonderful analysis of the first work of our master-mind by his German -peer, all has been said upon this subject that the most philosophical -reason, or poetical imagination, can suggest; and who that has read it -can forget that most appropriate and beautiful simile, wherein Hamlet's -mind is likened to an acorn planted in a porcelain vase—the seed -becomes living—the roots expand—and the fragile vessel bursts into a -thousand shivers!</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> The fish of these waters may be excellent in the water; -but owing to the want of care and niceness with which they are kept -after being caught, they are very seldom worth eating when brought to -table. They have no turbot or soles, a great national misfortune: their -best fish are rock-fish, bass, shad (an excellent herring, as big as a -small salmon), and sheep's-head. Cod and salmon I have eaten; but from -the above cause they were never comparable to the same fish at an -English table. The lobsters, crabs, and oysters are all gigantic, -frightful to behold, and not particularly well-flavoured: their size -makes them tough and coarse.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> My friend was entertaining himself, at the expense of my -credulity, in making this assertion. The rattle-snakes and red Indians -have fled together before the approach of civilisation; and it would be -as difficult to find the one as the other in the vicinity of any of the -large cities of the northern states.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> It is two years since I visited Hoboken for the first -time; it is now more beautiful than ever. The good taste of the -proprietor has made it one of the most picturesque and delightful places -imaginable; it wants but a good carriage-road along the water's edge -(for which the ground lies very favourably) to make it as perfect a -public promenade as any European city can boast, with the advantage of -such a river, for its principal object, as none of them possess. -</p><p> -I think the European traveller, in order to form a just estimate both of -the evils and advantages deriving from the institutions of this country, -should spend one day in the streets of New York, and the next in the -walks of Hoboken. If in the one, the toil, the care, the labour of mind -and body, the outward and visible signs of the debasing pursuit of -wealth, are marked in melancholy characters upon every man he meets, and -bear witness to the great curse of the country; in the other, the crowds -of happy, cheerful, enjoying beings of that order, which, in the old -world, are condemned to ceaseless and ill-requited labour, will testify -to the blessings which counterbalance that curse. I never was so -forcibly struck with the prosperity and happiness of the lower orders of -society in this country as yesterday returning from Hoboken. The walks -along the river and through the woods, the steamers crossing from the -city, were absolutely thronged with a cheerful well-dressed population -abroad, merely for the purpose of pleasure and exercise. Journeymen, -labourers, handicraftsmen, tradespeople, with their families, bearing -all in their dress and looks evident signs of well-being and -contentment, were all flocking from their confined avocations, into the -pure air, the bright sunshine, and beautiful shade of this lovely place. -I do not know any spectacle which could give a foreigner, especially an -Englishman, a better illustration of that peculiar excellence of the -American government—the freedom and happiness of the lower classes. -Neither is it to be said that this was a holiday, or an occasion of -peculiar festivity—it was a common week-day—such as our miserable -manufacturing population spends from sun-rise to sun-down, in confined, -incessant, unhealthy toil—to earn, at its conclusion, the inadequate -reward of health and happiness so wasted. The contrast struck me -forcibly—it rejoiced my heart; it surely was an object of -contemplation, that any one who had a heart must have rejoiced in. -Presently, however, came the following reflections:—These people are -happy—their wants are satisfied, their desires fulfilled—their -capacities of enjoyment meet with full employment—they are well -fed—well clothed—well housed—moderate labour insures them all this, -and leaves them leisure for such recreations as they are capable of -enjoying; but how is it with me?—and I mean not <i>me myself</i> alone, but -all who, like myself, have received a higher degree of mental -cultivation, whose estimate of happiness is, therefore, so much higher, -whose capacity for enjoyment is so much more expanded and -cultivated;—can I be satisfied with a race in a circular railroad car, -or a swing between the lime-trees? where are my peculiar objects of -pleasure and recreation? where are the picture-galleries—the -sculptures—the works of art and science—the countless wonders of human -ingenuity and skill—the cultivated and refined society—the intercourse -with men of genius, literature, scientific knowledge—where are all the -sources from which I am to draw my recreations? They are not. The heart -of a philanthropist may indeed be satisfied, but the intellectual man -feels a dearth that is inexpressibly painful; and in spite of the real -and great pleasure which I derived from the sight of so much enjoyment, -I could not help desiring that enjoyment of another order were combined -with it. Perhaps the two are incompatible; if so, I would not alter the -present state of things if I could. -</p><p> -The losers here are decidedly in the minority. Indeed, so much so, as -hardly to form a class; they are a few individuals, scattered over the -country, and of course their happiness ought not to come into -competition with that of the mass of the people; but the Americans, at -the same time that they make no provision whatever for the happiness of -such a portion of their inhabitants, would be very angry if one were to -say it was a very inconsiderable one, and yet that is the truth.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> The climate of this country is the scape-goat upon which -all the ill looks and ill health of the ladies is laid; but while they -are brought up as effeminately as they are, take as little exercise, -live in rooms like ovens during the winter, and marry as early as they -do, it will appear evident that many causes combine, with an extremely -variable climate, to sallow their complexions, and destroy their -constitutions.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> The hackney coaches in this country are very different -from those perilous receptacles of dust and dirty straw, which disgrace -the London stands. They are comfortable within, and clean without; and -the horses harnessed to them never exhibit those shocking specimens of -cruelty and ill usage which the poor hack horses in London present. -Indeed (and it is a circumstance which deserves notice, for it bespeaks -general character,) I have not seen, during a two years' residence in -this country, a single instance of brutality towards animals, such as -one is compelled to witness hourly in the streets of any English town.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> There is a striking difference in this respect between the -tradespeople of New York and those of Boston and Philadelphia; and in my -opinion the latter preserve quite self-respect enough to acquit their -courtesy and civility from any charge of servility. The only way in -which I can account for the difference, is the greater impulse which -trade receives in New York, the proportionate rapidity with which -fortunes are made, the ever-shifting materials of which its society is -composed, and the facility with which the man who has served you behind -his counter, having amassed an independence, assumes a station in the -first circle, where his influence becomes commensurate with his wealth. -This is not the case either in Boston or Philadelphia, at least not to -the same degree.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> The universal hour of dining, in New York, when first we -arrived, was three o'clock; after which hour the cooks took their -departure, and nothing was to be obtained fit to eat, either for love or -money: this intolerable nuisance is gradually passing away; but even -now, though we can get our dinner served at six o'clock, it is always -dressed at three; its excellence may be imagined from that. To say the -truth, I think the system upon which all houses of public entertainment -are conducted in this country is a sample of the patience and -long-suffering with which dirt, discomfort, and exorbitant charges may -be borne by a whole community, without resistance, or even remonstrance. -The best exceptions I could name to these various inconveniences are, -first, Mr. Cozzen's establishment at West Point; next, the Tremont at -Boston, and, lastly, the Mansion House at Philadelphia. In each of -these, wayfarers may obtain some portion of decent comfort: but they -have their drawbacks; in the first, there are no private sitting-rooms; -and in the last, the number of servants is inadequate to the work. The -Tremont is by far the best establishment of the sort existing at -present. Mr. A——, the millionnaire of New York, is about to remedy -this deficiency, by the erection of a magnificent hotel in Broadway. One -thing, however, is certain; neither he nor any one else will ever -succeed in having a decent house, if the servants are not a little -superior to the Irish savages who officiate in that capacity in most -houses, public and private, in the northern states of America.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> It is fortunate for the managers of the Park Theatre, and -very unfortunate for the citizens of New York, that the audiences who -frequent that place of entertainment are chiefly composed of the -strangers who are constantly passing in vast numbers through this city. -It is not worth the while of the management to pay a good company, when -an indifferent one answers their purpose quite as well: the system upon -which theatrical speculations are conducted in this country is, having -one or two "stars" for the principal characters, and nine or ten sticks -for all the rest. The consequence is, that a play is never decently -acted, and at such times as stars are scarce, the houses are very -deservedly empty. The terrestrial audiences suffer much by this mode of -getting up plays; but the celestial performers, the stars propped upon -sticks, infinitely more.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> Stewart—Bonfanti. The name of shopkeepers in Broadway: -the former's is the best shop in New York.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> Were the morality that I constantly hear uttered a little -more consistent, not only with right reason, but with itself, I think it -might be more deserving of attention and respect. But the mock delicacy, -which exists to so great a degree with regard to theatrical exhibitions, -can command neither the one nor the other. To those who forbid all -dramatic representations, as exhibitions of an unhealthy tendency upon -our intellectual and moral nature, I have no objections, at present, to -make. Unqualified condemnation, particularly when adopted on such -grounds, may be a sincere, a respectable, perhaps a right, opinion. I -have but one reply to offer to it: the human mind requires recreation; -is not a theatre (always supposing it to be, not what theatres too often -are, but what they ought to be), is not a theatre a better, a higher, a -more noble, and useful place of recreation than a billiard-room, or the -bar of a tavern? Perhaps in the course of the moral and intellectual -improvement of mankind, <i>all</i> these will give way to yet purer and more -refined sources of recreation; but in the mean time, I confess, with its -manifold abuses, a play-house appears to me worthy of toleration, if not -of approbation, as holding forth (when directed as it should be) a -highly intellectual, rational, and refined amusement. -</p><p> -However, as I before said, my quarrel is not with those who condemn -indiscriminately all theatrical exhibitions; they may be right: at all -events, so sweeping a sentence betrays no inconsistency. But what are we -to say to individuals, or audiences, who turn with affected disgust from -the sallies of Bizarre and Beatrice, and who applaud and laugh, and are -delighted, at the gross immorality of such plays as the Wonder, and Rule -a Wife and have a Wife; the latter particularly, in which the immorality -and indecency are not those of expression only, but of conception, and -mingle in the whole construction of the piece, in which not one -character appears whose motives of action are not most unworthy, and -whose language is not as full of coarseness, as devoid of every -generous, elevated, or refined sentiment. (The tirades of Leon are no -exception; for in the mouth of a man who marries such a woman as -Marguerita, by such means, and for such an end, they are mere -mockeries.) I confess that my surprise was excited when I was told that -an American audience would not endure that portion of Beatrice's wit -which the London censors have spared, and that Othello was all but a -proscribed play; but it was infinitely more so, when I found that the -same audience tolerated, or rather encouraged with their presence and -applause, the coarse productions of Mrs. Centlivre and Beaumont and -Fletcher. With regard to the Inconstant, it is by far the most moral of -Farquhar's plays; that, perhaps, is little praise, for the Recruiting -Officer, and the Beaux' Stratagem, are decidedly the reverse. But in -spite of the licentiousness of the writing, in many parts, the -construction, the motive, the action of the play is not licentious; the -characters are far from being utterly debased in their conception, or -depraved in the sentiments they utter (excepting, of course, the -companions of poor Mirable's last revel); the women, those surest -criterions, by whose principles and conduct may be formed the truest -opinion of the purity of the social atmosphere, the women, though free -in their manners and language (it was the fashion of their times, and of -the times before them, when words did not pass for deeds, either good or -bad), are essentially honest women; and Bizarre, coarse as her -expressions may appear, has yet more <i>real</i> delicacy than poor Oriana, -whose womanly love causes her too far to forget her womanly pride. Of -the catastrophe of this play, and its frightfully-pointed moral, little -need be said to prove that its effect is likely to be far more -wholesome, because far more homely, than that of most theatrical -inventions; invention, indeed, it is not, and its greatest interest, as -perhaps its chief utility, is drawn from the circumstance of its being a -faithful representation of a situation of unequalled horror, in which -the author himself was placed, and from which he was rescued precisely -as he extricates his hero. Of the truth and satirical power of the -dialogue, none who understand it can dispute; and if, instead of -attaching themselves to the farcical romping of Bizarre and her -ungallant lover, the modest critics of this play had devoted some -attention to the dialogues between young and old Mirable, their nice -sense of decency would have been less shocked, and they might have found -themselves repaid by some of the most pointed, witty, and pithy writing -in English dramatic literature. I am much obliged to such of my friends -as lamented that I had to personate Farquhar's impertinent heroine; for -my own good part, I would as lief be such a one, as either Jane Shore, -Mrs. Haller, Lady Macbeth, or the wild woman Bianca. I know that great -crimes have a species of evil grandeur in them; they spring only from a -powerful soil, they are in their very magnitude respectable. I know that -mighty passions have in their very excess a frightful majesty, that -asserts the vigour of the natures from which they rise; and there is as -little similarity between them, and the base, degraded, selfish, -cowardly tribe of petty larceny vices with which human societies abound, -as there is between the caterpillar blight, that crawls over a fertile -district, gnawing it away inch-meal, and the thunderbolt that scathes, -or the earthquake that swallows the same region, in its awful mission of -destruction. But I maintain that freedom of expression and manner is by -no means an indication of laxity of morals, and again repeat that -Bizarre is free in her words, but not in her principles. The authoress -of the most graceful and true analysis of Shakspeare's female characters -has offered a better vindication of their manners than I could write; I -can only say, I pity sincerely all those who, passing over the exquisite -purity, delicacy, and loveliness of their conception, dwell only upon -modes of expression which belong to the times in which their great -creator lived. With respect to the manner in which audiences are -affected by what they hear on the stage, I cannot but think that -gentlemen, who wish their wives and daughters to hear no language of an -exceptionable nature, had better make themselves acquainted with what -they take them to see, or, at all events, avoid, when in the theatre, -attracting their attention to expressions which their disapprobation -serves only to bring into notice, and which had much better escape -unheard, or at least unheeded. Voluminous as this note has become, I -cannot but add one word with respect to the members of the profession to -which I have belonged. Many actresses that I have known, in the -performance of unvirtuous or unlovely characters (I cannot, however, -help remembering that they were also secondary parts), have thought fit -to impress the audience with the wide difference between their assumed -and real disposition, by acting as ill, and looking as cross as they -possibly could, which could not but be a great satisfaction to any moral -audience. I have seen this done by that fine part in Milman's Fazio, -Aldabella, repeatedly, and not unfrequently by the Queen in Hamlet, -Margarita in Rule a Wife and have a Wife (I scarcely wonder at that, -though), and even by poor Shakspeare's Lady Falconbridge. I think this -is a mistake: the audience, I believe, never forget that the actress is -not indeed the wicked woman she seems. In one instance that might have -been the case, perhaps. I speak of a great artist, whose efforts I never -witnessed, but whose private excellence I have a near right to rejoice -in, and who was as true in her performance of the wretch Millwood, as in -her personifications of Shakspeare's grandest creations.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> The Russians and Danes are rich in the possession of an -original and most touching national music; Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, -are alike favoured with the most exquisite native melodies, probably, in -the world. France, though more barren in the wealth of sweet sounds, has -a few fine old airs, that redeem her from the charge of utter sterility. -Austria, Bohemia, and Switzerland, each claim a thousand beautiful and -characteristic mountain songs; Italy is the very palace of music, -Germany its temple; Spain resounds with wild and martial strains, and -the thick groves of Portugal with native music, of a softer and sadder -kind. All the nations of Europe, I presume all those of all the world, -possess some kind of national music, and are blessed by Heaven with some -measure of perception as to the loveliness of harmonious sounds. England -alone, England and her descendant America, seems to have been denied a -sense, to want a capacity, to have been stinted of a faculty, to the -possession of which she vainly aspires. The rich spirit of Italian -music, the solemn soul of German melody, the wild free Euterpe of the -Cantons, have in vain been summoned by turns to teach her how to listen; -'tis all in vain—she does listen painfully; she has learnt by dint of -time, and much endurance, the technicalities of musical science; she -pays regally her instructors in the divine pleasure, but all in vain: -the spirit of melody is not in her; and in spite of hosts of foreign -musicians, in spite of the King's Theatre, in spite of Pasta, in spite -of music-masters paid like ministers of state, in spite of singing and -playing young ladies, and criticising young gentlemen, England, to the -last day of her life, will be a dunce in music, for she hath it not in -her; neither, if I am not much mistaken, hath her daughter.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> It is but justice to state, that this house has passed -into other hands, and is much improved in every respect. Strangers, -particularly Englishmen, will find a great convenience in the five -o'clock ordinary, now established there, which is, I am told, -excellently conducted and appointed.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> The whole of this passage is in fact a succession of small -bays, forming a continuation to the grand bay of New York, and dividing -Staten Island from the mainland of New Jersey; the Raritan river does -not properly begin till Amboy, where it empties itself into a bay of its -own name.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> I had always heard that the face of nature was gigantic in -America; and truly we found the wrinkles such for so young a country. -The ruts were absolute abysses.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> The southern, western, and eastern states of North America -have each their strong peculiarities of enunciation, which render them -easy of recognition. The Virginian and New England accents appear to me -the most striking; Pennsylvania and New York have much less brogue; but -through all their various tones and pronunciations a very strong nasal -inflection preserves their universal brotherhood. They all speak through -their noses, and at the top of their voices. Of dialects, properly so -called, there are none; though a few expressions, peculiar to particular -states, which generally serve to identify their citizens; but these are -not numerous, and a jargon approaching in obscurity that of many of our -counties is not to be met with. The language used in society generally -is unrefined, inelegant, and often ungrammatically vulgar; but it is -more vulgar than unintelligible by far.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> This appears to me to be a most frequent ailment among the -American ladies: they must have particularly bilious constitutions. I -never remember travelling in a steam-boat, on the smoothest water, -without seeing sundry "afflicted fair ones," who complained bitterly of -<i>sea-sickness</i> in the river.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> In spite of its beauty, or rather on that very account, an -American autumn is to me particularly sad. It presents a union of beauty -and decay, that for ever reminds me of that loveliest disguise death -puts on, when the cheek is covered with roses, and the eyes are like -stars, and the life is perishing away; even so appear the gorgeous -colours of the withering American woods. 'Tis a whole forest dying of -consumption.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> The magnolia and azalia are two of these; and earlier in -the summer, the whole country looks like fairy-land, with the profuse -and lovely blossoms of the wild laurel, an evergreen shrub unequalled -for its beauty, and which absolutely overruns every patch of -uncultivated ground. I wonder none of our parks have yet been adorned -with it: it is a hardy plant, and I should think would thrive admirably -in England.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> In the opening chapter of that popular work, Eugene Aram, -are the following words:—"It has been observed, and there is a world of -homely, ay, and of legislative knowledge in the observation, that -wherever you see a flower in a cottage garden, or a bird-cage at the -window, you may feel sure that the cottagers are better and wiser than -their neighbours." The truth of this observation is indisputable. But -for such "humble tokens of attention to something beyond the <i>sterile -labour</i> of life" you look in vain during a progress through this -country. In New England alone, neatness and a certain endeavour at -rustic elegance and adornment, in the cottages and country residences, -recall those of their fatherland; and the pleasure of the traveller is -immeasurably heightened by this circumstance. If the wild beauties of -uncultivated nature lead our contemplations to our great Maker, these -lowly witnesses of the industry and natural refinement of the laborious -cultivator of the soil warm our heart with sympathy for our kind, and -the cheering conviction that, however improved by cultivation, the sense -of beauty, and the love of what is lovely, have been alike bestowed upon -all our race; 'tis a wholesome conviction, which the artificial -divisions of society too often cause us to lose sight of. The labourer, -who, after "sweating in the eye of Phœbus" all the day, at evening -trains the fragrant jasmine round his lowly door, is the very same man -who, in other circumstances, would have been the refined and liberal -patron of those arts which reflect the beauty of nature.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> In all my progress I looked in vain for the refreshing -sight of a hedge—no such thing was to be seen; and their extreme rarity -throughout the country renders the more cultivated parts of it arid -looking and comparatively dreary. These crooked fences in the south, and -stone walls to the north, form the divisions of the fields, instead of -those delicious "hedge-rows green," where the old elms delight to grow, -where the early violets and primroses first peep sheltered forth, where -the hawthorn blossoms sweeten the summer, the honeysuckle hangs its -yellow garlands in the autumn, and the red "hips and haws" shine like -bushes of earthly coral in the winter. -</p><p> -But the Americans are in too great a hurry to plant hedges: they have -abundance of native material; but a wooden fence is put up in a few -weeks, a hedge takes as many years to grow; and, as I said before, an -American has not time to be a year about anything. When first the -country was settled, the wood was an encumbrance, and it was cut down -accordingly: that is by no means the case now; and the only -recommendation of these fences is, therefore, the comparative rapidity -with which they can be constructed. One of the most amiable and -distinguished men of this country once remarked to me, that the -Americans were in too great a hurry about every thing they undertook to -bring any thing to perfection. And certainly, as far as my observation -goes, I should <i>calculate</i> that an American is born, lives, and dies -twice as fast as any other human creature. I believe one of the great -inducements to this national hurry is, that "time is money," which is -true; but it is also true, sometimes, that "most haste makes worst -speed."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> These are two very pretty villages, of Quaker origin, -situated in the midst of a fertile and lovely country, and much resorted -to during the summer season by the Philadelphians.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> It has happened to me after a few hours' travelling in a -steam-boat to find the white dress, put on fresh in the morning, covered -with yellow tobacco stains; nor is this very offensive habit confined to -the lower orders alone. I have seen <i>gentlemen</i> spit upon the carpet of -the room where they were sitting, in the company of women, without the -slightest remorse; and I remember once seeing a gentleman, who was -travelling with us, very deliberately void his tobacco-juice into the -bottom of the coach, instead of through the windows, to my inexpressible -disgust.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> I wish that somebody would be so obliging as to impress -people in general with the extreme excellence of a perception of the -<i>fitness of things</i>. Besides the intrinsic beauty of works of art, they -have a beauty derived from their appropriateness to the situations in -which they are placed, and their harmony with the objects which surround -them: this minor species of beauty is yet a very great one. If it were -more studied, and better understood, public buildings would no longer -appear as if they had fallen out of the clouds by chance; parks and -plantations would no more have the appearance of nurseries, where the -trees were classed by kind, instead of being massed according to their -various forms and colours; and Gothic and classic edifices would not so -often seem as if they had forsaken their appropriate situations, to rear -themselves in climates, and among scenery, with which they in no way -harmonise.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> Politics of all sorts, I confess, are far beyond my -limited powers of comprehension. Those of this country, as far as I have -been able to observe, resolve themselves into two great motives,—the -aristocratic desire of elevation and separation, and the democratic -desire of demolishing and levelling. Whatever may be the immediate cause -of excitement or discussion, these are the two master-springs to which -they are referable. Every man in America is a politician; and political -events, of importance only because they betray the spirit which would be -called into play by more stirring occasions, are occurring incessantly, -and keeping alive the interest which high and low alike take in the -evolutions of their political machine. Elections of state officers, -elections of civil authorities, all manner of elections (for America is -one perpetual contest for votes), are going on all the year round; and -whereas the politics of men of private stations in other countries are -kept quietly by them, and exhibited only on occasions of general -excitement, those of an American are as inseparable from him as his -clothes, and mix up with his daily discharge of his commonest daily -avocations. I was extremely amused at seeing over a hat-shop in New York -one day, "Anti-Bank Hat-Store," written in most attractive characters, -as an inducement for all good democrats to go in and purchase their -beavers of so republican a hatter. The universal-suffrage system is of -course the cause of this general political mania; and during an election -of mayor or aldermen, the good shopkeepers of New York are in as fierce -a state of excitement as if the choice of a perpetual dictator were the -question in point. Politics is the main subject of conversation among -American men in society; but, as I said before, the immediate object of -discussion being most frequently some petty local interest or other, -strangers cannot derive much pleasure from, or feel much sympathy in, -the debate.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> I have often thought that the constant demand for small -theatres, which I have heard made by persons of the higher classes of -society in England, was a great proof of the decline of the more -imaginative faculties among them; and the proportionate increase of that -fastidious and critical spirit, which is so far removed from every thing -which constitutes the essence of poetry. The idea of illusion in a -dramatic exhibition is confined to the Christmas spectators of old -tragedies and new pantomimes; the more refined portions of our English -audiences yawn through Shakspeare's historical plays, and <i>quiz</i> through -those which are histories of human nature and its awful passions. They -have forgotten what human nature really is, and cannot even <i>imagine -it</i>. They require absolute reality on the stage, because their incapable -spirits scoff at poetical truth; and that absolute reality, in our days, -consists in such representations as the Rent Day; or (crossing the -water, for we dearly love what is foreign) the homely improbabilities of -Victorine, Henriette, and a pack of equally worthless subjects of -exhibition. Indeed, theatres have had an end; for the refined, the -highly educated, the first classes of society, they have had an end; it -will be long, however, before the mass is sufficiently refined to lose -all power of imagination; and while our aristocracy patronise French -melodramas, and seek their excitement in the most trashy -sentimentalities of the modern <i>école romantique</i>, I have some hopes -that our plebeian pits and galleries may still retain their sympathy for -the loves of Juliet and the sorrows of Ophelia. I would rather a -thousand times act either of those parts to a set of Manchester -mechanics, than to the most select of our aristocracy, for they are -"nothing, if not critical."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> Kean is gone—and with him are gone Othello, Shylock, and -Richard. I have lived among those whose theatrical creed would not -permit them to acknowledge him as a great actor; but they must be -bigoted, indeed, who would deny that he was a great genius, a man of -most original and striking powers, careless of art, perhaps because he -did not need it; but possessing those rare gifts of nature, without -which art alone is as a dead body. Who that ever heard will ever forget -the beauty, the unutterable tenderness, of his reply to Desdemona's -entreaties for Cassio, "Let him come when he will, I can deny thee -nothing;" the deep despondency of his "Oh, now farewell;" the miserable -anguish of his "Oh, Desdemona, away, away!" Who that ever saw will ever -forget the fascination of his dying eyes in Richard, when, deprived of -his sword, the wondrous power of his look seemed yet to avert the -uplifted arm of Richmond. If he was irregular and unartistlike in his -performances, so is Niagara, compared with the water-works of -Versailles.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> I have acted Ophelia three times with my father, and each -time, in that beautiful scene where his madness and his love gush forth -together like a torrent swollen with storms, that bears a thousand -blossoms on its troubled waters, I have experienced such deep emotion as -hardly to be able to speak. The exquisite tenderness of his voice, the -wild compassion and forlorn pity of his looks bestowing that on others -which, above all others, he most needed; the melancholy restlessness, -the bitter self-scorning; every shadow of expression and intonation was -so full of all the mingled anguish that the human heart is capable of -enduring, that my eyes scarce fixed on his ere they filled with tears; -and long before the scene was over, the letters and jewel-cases I was -tendering to him were wet with them. The hardness of professed actors -and actresses is something amazing: after acting this part, I could not -but recall the various Ophelias I have seen, and commend them for the -astonishing absence of every thing like feeling which they exhibited. -Oh, it made my heart sore to act it.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> I am speaking now only of the common saddle-horses that -one sees about the streets and roads. The southern breed of race-horses -is a subject of great interest and care to all sporting men here: they -are very beautiful animals, of a remarkably slight and delicate make. -But the perfection of horses in this country are those trained for -trotting: their speed is almost incredible. I have been whirled along in -a light-built carriage by a pair of famous professed trotters, who -certainly got over the ground at the rate of a moderate-going -steam-engine, and this without ever for a moment breaking into a gallop. -The fondness of the Americans for this sort of horses, however, is one -reason why one can so rarely obtain a well-mouthed riding-horse. These -trotters are absolutely carried on the bit, and require only a snaffle, -and an arm of iron to hold them up. A horse well set upon his haunches -is not to be met with; and owing to this mode of breaking, their action -is entirely from the head and shoulders; and they both look and feel as -if they would tumble down on their noses.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> Except where they have been made political tools, -newspaper writers and editors have never, I believe, been admitted into -good society in England. It is otherwise here: newspapers are the main -literature of America; and I have frequently heard it quoted, as a proof -of a man's abilities, that he writes in such and such a newspaper. -Besides the popularity to be obtained by it, it is often attended with -no small literary consideration; and young men here, with talents of a -really high order, and who might achieve far better things, too often -are content to accept this very mediocre mode of displaying their -abilities, at very little expense of thought or study, and neglect far -worthier objects of ambition, and the rewards held out by a distant and -permanent fame. I know that half my young gentlemen acquaintance here -would reply, that they must live in the mean time: and it is a real and -deep evil, arising from the institutions of this country, that every man -must toil from day to day for his daily bread; and in this degrading and -spirit-loading care, all other nobler desires are smothered. It is a -great national misfortune.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> This delightful virtue of neatness is carried almost to an -inconvenient pitch by the worthy Philadelphians: the town, every now and -then, appears to be in a perfect frenzy of cleanliness; and of a -Saturday morning, early, the streets are really impassable, except to a -good swimmer. "Cleanliness," says the old saw, "is near to godliness." -Philadelphia must be very near heaven.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> The final result of our very unfortunate dealings with -this gentleman is, that our earnings (and they are not lightly come by), -to the amount of near three thousand dollars, are at this moment in the -hands of a trustee, and Heaven and a New England court of justice will -decide whether they are ever to come into ours.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> When we arrived in America, we brought letters of -introduction to several persons in New York: many were civil enough to -call upon us: we were invited out to sundry parties, and were introduced -into what is there called the first society. I do not wish to enter into -any description of it, but will only say that I was most disagreeably -astonished; and had it been my fate to have passed through the country -as rapidly as most travellers do, I should have carried away a very -unfavourable impression of the <i>best</i> society of New York. Fortunately, -however, for me, my visits were repeated, and my stay prolonged; and, in -the course of time, I became acquainted with many individuals whose -manners and acquirements were of a high order, and from whose -intercourse I derived the greatest gratification. But they generally did -me the favour to visit me; and I still could not imagine how it happened -that I never met them at the parties to which I was invited, and in the -circles where I visited. I soon discovered that they formed a society -among themselves, where all those qualities which I had looked for among -the self-styled <i>best</i> were to be found. When I name Miss Sedgwick, -Halleck, Irving, Bryant, Paulding, and some of less fame, but whose -acquirements rendered their companionship delightful indeed, amongst -whom I felt proud and happy to find several of my own name, it will no -longer appear singular that they should feel too well satisfied with the -resources of their own society, either to mingle in that of the vulgar -<i>fashionables</i>, or seek with avidity the acquaintance of every stranger -that arrives in New York. It is not to be wondered at that foreigners -have spoken as they have of what is termed fashionable society here, or -have condemned, with unqualified censure, the manners and tone -prevailing in it. Their condemnations are true and just as regards what -they see; nor, perhaps, would they be much inclined to moderate them -when they found that persons possessing every quality that can render -intercourse between rational creatures desirable were held in light -esteem, and neglected, as either bores, blues, or dowdies, by those so -infinitely their inferiors in every worthy accomplishment. The same -separation, or, if any thing, a still stronger one, subsists in -Philadelphia between the self-styled fashionables and the really good -society. The distinction there is really of a nature perfectly -ludicrous. A friend of mine was describing to me a family whose manners -were unexceptionable and whose mental accomplishments were of a high -order: upon my expressing some surprise that I had never met with them, -my informant replied, "Oh, no, they are not received by the Chestnut -Street <i>set</i>." If I were called upon to define that society in New York -and Philadelphia which ranks (by right of self-arrogation) as first and -best, I should say it is a purely dancing society, where a fiddle is -indispensable to keep its members awake; and where their brains and -tongues seem, by common consent, to feel that they had much better give -up the care of mutual entertainment to the feet of the parties -assembled; and they judge well. Now, I beg leave clearly to be -understood, there is another, and a far more desirable circle; but it is -not the one into which strangers find their way generally. To an -Englishman, this <i>fashionable</i> society presents, indeed, a pitiful -sample of lofty pretensions without adequate foundation. Here is a -constant endeavour to imitate those states of European society which -have for their basis the feudal spirit of the early ages, and which are -rendered venerable by their rank, powerful by their wealth, and refined, -and in some degree respectable, by great and general mental cultivation. -Of Boston, I have not spoken. The society there is of an infinitely -superior order. A very general degree of information, and a much greater -simplicity of manners, render it infinitely more agreeable. But of that -hereafter.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> The beautiful villas on the banks of the Schuylkill are -all either utterly deserted and half ruinous, or let out by the -proprietors to tavern-keepers. The reason assigned for this is, that -during that season of the year when it would be most desirable to reside -there, the fever and ague takes possession of the place, and effectually -banishes all other occupants. This very extraordinary and capricious -malady is as uncertain in its residence, as unwelcome where it does fix -its abode. The courses of some of the rivers, and even whole tracts of -country away from the vicinity of the water, have been desolated by it: -from these it has passed away entirely, and removed itself to other -districts, before remarkably healthy. Sometimes it visits particular -places at intervals of one or two seasons; sometimes it attaches itself -to one side of a river, and leaves the inhabitants of the other in the -enjoyment of perfect health; in short, it is quite as unaccountable in -its proceedings as a fine lady. Many causes have been assigned as its -origin; which, however, have varied in credibility at almost every new -appearance of the malady. The enormous quantity of decaying vegetation -with which the autumn woods are strewn, year after year, till it -absolutely forms a second soil; the dam lately erected by the -water-works, and which, intercepting the tide, causes occasional -stagnation; the unwholesome action of water lodging in hollows in the -rocks; are all reasons which have been given to me when I have enquired -about this terrible nuisance along the banks of the Schuylkill: but -there is another, and one which appeared so obvious to me, that when -first I saw it, I felt much inclined to attribute the fever and ague to -that, and to that alone. I allude to a foul and stagnant ditch, lying -between the tow-path and the grounds of these country houses, of nearly -a mile in length, and of considerable width. When I saw the sun pouring -its intense light down into this muddy pool, covered with thick and -unwholesome incrustations, I could not help remarking that this alone -was quite sufficient to breed a malaria in the whole neighbourhood; and -that if the gentlemen proprietors of the lands along this part of the -river would drain this very poisonous-looking repository for bull-frogs, -their dwellings would, in all probability, be free from fever and ague.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> This beautiful younger world appears to me to have -received the portion of the beloved younger son—the "coat of many -colours."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> This country is in one respect blessed above all others, -and above all others deserving of blessing. There are no poor—I say -there are none, there <i>need</i> be none; none here need lift up the -despairing voice of hopeless and helpless want towards that Heaven which -hears when men will not. No father here need work away his body's -health, and his spirit's strength, in unavailing labour, from day to -day, and from year to year, bowed down by the cruel curse his fellows -lay upon him. No mother need wish, in the bitterness of her heart, that -the children of her breast had died before they exhausted that -nourishment which was the only one her misery could feel assured would -not fail them. None need be born to vice, for none are condemned to -abject poverty. Oh, it makes the heart sick to think of all the horrible -anguish that has been suffered by thousands and thousands of those -wretched creatures, whose want begets a host of moral evils fearful to -contemplate; whose existence begins in poverty, struggles on through -care and toil, and heart-grinding burdens, and ends in destitution, in -sickness,—alas! too often in crime and infamy. Thrice blessed is this -country, for no such crying evil exists in its bosom; no such moral -reproach, no such political rottenness. Not only is the eye never -offended with those piteous sights of human suffering, which make one's -heart bleed, and whose number appals one's imagination in the thronged -thoroughfares of the European cities; but the mind reposes with delight -in the certainty that not one human creature is here doomed to suffer -and to weep through life; not one immortal soul is thrown into jeopardy -by the combined temptations of its own misery, and the heartless -selfishness of those who pass it by without holding out so much as a -finger to save it. If we have any faith in the excellence of mercy and -benevolence, we must believe that this alone will secure the blessing of -Providence on this country.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> Throughout all the northern states, and particularly those -of New England, the Unitarian form of faith prevails very extensively. -It appears to me admirably suited to the spiritual necessities of this -portion of the Americans. They are a reasoning, not an imaginative, -race; moreover, they are a hard-working, not an idle, one. It therefore -suits their necessities, as well as their character, to have a religious -creed divested at once of mysteries at which the rational mind excepts; -and of long and laborious ceremonies, which too often engross the time -without the attention of the worshipper. They are poor, too, -comparatively speaking; and, were they so inclined, could little afford, -either the splendid pageantry which the Romish priesthood require, or -the less glaring but not less expensive revenues which the Episcopalian -clergy enjoy. Their form of religion is a simple one, a short one, and a -cheap one. Without attempting to discuss its excellence in the abstract, -it certainly appears to me to be as much fitted for this people, as the -marvellous legends and magnificent shows of the Romish church were to -the early European nations. The church in America is not, as with us, -made a mere means of living: there are no rich benefices, or -over-swelled bishoprics, to be hoped for, by the man who devotes himself -to the service of God's altar: the pecuniary remuneration of the clergy -depends upon the generosity of their congregations; and, for the most -part, a sincere love of his vocation must be the American minister's -reward, as it was his original instigation to the work.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> Whatever progress phrenology may have made in the -convictions of people in general, it is much to be hoped that the -physiological principles to which, in the development of their system, -its professors constantly advert, may find favour even with those who -are not prepared to admit the truth of the new philosophy of the human -intellect. While we have bodies as well as souls, we must take care of -the health of our bodies, if we wish our souls to be healthy. I have -heard many people mention the intimate union of spirit and matter, -displayed in the existence of a human being, as highly degrading to the -former; however that may be, it is certain that we by no means show our -value for the one, by neglecting and maltreating the other: and that if, -instead of lamenting over the unworthiness of the soul's fleshy partner, -we were to improve and correct and endeavour to ennoble it, we should do -the wiser thing. Upon a well-regulated digestion and circulation, and a -healthful nervous system, many of our virtues depend, much of our -happiness; and it is almost as impossible to possess a healthy and -vigorous mind in a diseased and debilitated body, as it is unusual to -see a strong and healthful body allied to an intemperate and -ill-governed spirit. We have some value for the casket which contains -our jewel: then should we not have some for that casket to which the -jewel absolutely adheres, and which cannot suffer injury itself without -communicating it to that which it contains? Exercise, regularity, and -moderation in diet and sleep, well-proportioned and varied studies and -recreations,—these are none of them subjects of trivial importance to -the wise. Much of our ease and contentedness depends upon them; much of -our well-being, much of our <i>well-doing</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> I think it has not been my good fortune, in more than six -instances, during my residence in this country, to find ladies "at home" -in the morning. The first reason for this is, the total impossibility of -having a housekeeper; the American servants steadfastly refusing to obey -<i>two</i> mistresses; the being subservient to any appears, indeed, a -dreadful hardship to them. Of course this compels the lady of the house -to enter into all those minute daily details, which with us devolve upon -the superintendent servant, and she is thus condemned, at least for some -part of the morning, to the store-room or the kitchen. In consequence of -this, her toilet is seldom completed until about to take her morning -promenade; and I have been a good deal surprised, more than once, at -being told, when I called, that "the ladies were dressing, but would be -down immediately." This is French; the disorderly slouching about half -the morning in a careless undress being, unluckily, quite compatible -with that exquisite niceness of appearance with which the Parisian -ladies edify their streets so much, and their homes so little. Another -very disagreeable result of this arrangement is, that when you are -admitted into a house in the morning, the rooms appear as if they never -were used: there are no books lying about, no work-tables covered with -evidences of constant use, and if there is a piano, it is generally -closed; the whole giving one an uninhabited feel that is extremely -uncomfortable. As to a morning lounge in a lady's boudoir, or a -gentleman's library, the thing's unheard of; to be sure there are no -loungers, where every man is tied to a counting-house from morning till -night; and therefore no occasion for those very pleasant sanctums -devoted to gossiping, political, literary, and scandalous.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> I am sure there is no town in Europe where my father could -fix his residence for a week, without being immediately found out by -most of the residents of any literary acquirements, or knowledge of -matters relating to art; I am sure that neither in France, Italy, or -Germany, could he take up his abode in any city, without immediately -being sought by those best worth knowing in it. I confess it surprised -me, therefore, when I found that, during a month's residence in -Philadelphia, scarcely a creature came near us, and but one house was -hospitably opened to us; as regards myself, I have no inclination -whatever to speak upon the subject but it gave me something like a -feeling of contempt, not only for the charities, but for the good taste -of the Philadelphians, when I found them careless and indifferent -towards one whose name alone is a passport into every refined and -cultivated society in Europe. Every where else, in America, our -reception was very different; and I can only attribute the want of -courtesy we met with in Philadelphia to the greater prevalence of that -very small spirit of dignity which is always afraid of committing -itself.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> The familiar appellation by which the democracy designate -their favourite, General Jackson. The hickory wood is the tallest and -the toughest possible, and by no means a bad type of some of the -President's physical and moral attributes. Hickory poles, as they are -called, are erected before most of the taverns frequented by the -thorough-going Jacksonites; and they are sometimes surmounted by the -glorious "Cap of Liberty," that much abused symbol, which has presided -over so many scenes of political frenzy.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> In beholding this fine young giant of a world, with all -its magnificent capabilities for greatness, I think every Englishman -must feel unmingled regret at the unjust and unwise course of policy -which alienated such a child from the parent government. But, at the -same time, it is impossible to avoid seeing that some other course must, -ere long, have led to the same result, even if England had pursued a -more maternal course of conduct towards America. No one, beholding this -enormous country, stretching from ocean to ocean, watered with ten -thousand glorious rivers, combining every variety of climate and soil, -therefore, every variety of produce and population; possessing within -itself every resource that other nations are forced either to buy -abroad, or to create substitutes for at home; no one, seeing the -internal wealth of America, the abundant fertility of the earth's -surface, the riches heaped below it, the unparalleled facilities for the -intercourse of men, and the interchange of their possessions throughout -its vast extent, can for an instant indulge the thought that such a -country was ever destined to be an appendage to any other in the world, -or that any chain of circumstances whatever could have long maintained -in dependence a people furnished with every means of freedom and -greatness. But far from regretting that America has thrown off her -allegiance, and regarding her as a rebellious subject and irreverent -child, England will surely, ere long, learn to look upon this country as -the inheritor of her glory; the younger England, destined to perpetuate -the language, the memory, the virtues, of the noble land from which she -is descended. Loving and honouring my country as I do, I cannot look -upon America with any feeling of hostility. I not only hear the voice of -England in the language of this people, but I recognise in all their -best qualities, their industry, their honesty, their sturdy independence -of spirit, the very witnesses of their origin—they are English; no -other people in the world would have licked us as they did; nor any -other people in the world built up, upon the ground they won, so sound, -and strong, and fair an edifice. -</p><p> -With regard to what I have said in the beginning of this note, of the -many reasons which combined to render this country independent of all -others, I think they in some measure tell against the probability of its -long remaining at unity with itself. Such numerous and clashing -interests; such strong and opposite individuality of character between -the northern and southern states; above all, such enormous extent of -country; seem rationally to present many points of insecurity, many -probabilities of separations and breakings asunder; but all this lies -far on, and I leave it to those who have good eyes for a distance.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> I think the pretension to pre-eminence, in the various -societies of North America, is founded on these grounds. In Boston, a -greater degree of mental cultivation; in New York, the possession of -wealth; and a lady, of whom I enquired the other day what constituted -the superiority of the <i>aristocracy</i> in Philadelphia, replied,—"Why, -birth, to be sure." Virginia and Carolina, indeed, long prided -themselves upon their old family names, which were once backed by large -possessions; and for many years the southern gentlemen might not -improperly be termed the aristocracy of America; but the estates of -those who embraced the king's cause during the rebellion were -confiscated; and the annulling the laws of entail and primogeniture, and -the parcelling out of property under the republican form of government, -have gradually destroyed the fortunes of most of the old southern -families. Still, they hold fast to the spirit of their former -superiority, and from this circumstance, and the possession of slaves, -which exempts them from the drudgery of earning their livelihood, they -are a much less mercantile race of men than those of the northern -states; generally better informed, and infinitely more polished in their -manners. The few southerners with whom I have become acquainted resemble -Europeans both in their accomplishments, and the quiet and reserve of -their manners. On my remarking, one day, to a Philadelphia gentleman, -whose general cultivation keeps pace with his political and financial -talents, how singular the contrast was between the levelling spirit of -this government, and the separating and dividing spirit of American -society, he replied, that, if his many vocations allowed him time, he -should like to write a novel, illustrating the curious struggle which -exists throughout this country between its political and its social -institutions. The anomaly is, indeed, striking. Democracy governs the -land; whilst, throughout society, a contrary tendency shows itself, -wherever it can obtain the very smallest opportunity. It is unfortunate -for America that its aristocracy must, of necessity, be always one of -wealth.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> Of course the captain is undisputed master of the boat, -and any disorders, quarrels, etc., which may arise, are settled by his -authority. Any passenger, guilty of misbehaviour, is either confined or -sent immediately on shore, no matter how far from his intended -destination. I once saw very summary justice performed on a troublesome -fellow who was disturbing the whole society on board one of the North -River steamers. He was put into the small boat with the captain and a -stout-looking sailor, and very comfortably deposited on some rafts which -were floating along shore, about twenty miles below West Point, whither -he was bound.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> The quantity of one's companions in these conveyances is -not more objectionable than their quality sometimes. As they are the -only vehicles, and the fares charged are extremely low, it follows, -necessarily, that all classes and sorts of people congregate in them, -from the ragged Irish emigrant and the boorish back-countryman, to the -gentleman of the senate, the supreme court, and the president himself.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> The manners of the young girls of America appear -singularly free to foreigners; and until they become better acquainted -with the causes which produce so unrestrained a deportment, they are -liable to take disadvantageous and mistaken impressions with regard to -them. The term which I should say applied best to the tone and carriage -of American girls from ten to eighteen, is hoydenish; laughing, -giggling, romping, flirting, screaming at the top of their voices, -running in and out of shops, and spending a very considerable portion of -their time in lounging about in the streets. In Philadelphia and Boston, -almost all the young ladies attend classes or day schools; and in the -latter place I never went out, morning, noon, or evening, that I did not -meet, in some of the streets round the Tremont House, a whole bevy of -young school girls, who were my very particular friends, but who, under -pretext of going to, or returning from, school, appeared to me to be -always laughing, and talking, and running about in the public -thoroughfares; a system of education which we should think by no means -desirable. The entire liberty which the majority of young ladies are -allowed to assume, at an age when in England they would be under strict -nursery discipline, appears very extraordinary; they not only walk alone -in the streets, but go out into society, where they take a determined -and leading part, without either mother, aunt, or chaperon of any sort; -custom, which renders such an appendage necessary with us, entirely -dispenses with it here; and though the reason of this is obvious enough -in the narrow circles of these small towns, where every body knows every -body, the manners of the young ladies do not derive any additional charm -from the perfect self-possession which they thus acquire. Shyness -appears to me to be a quality utterly unknown to either man, woman, or -child in America. The girls, from the reasons above stated, and the -boys, from being absolutely thrown into the world, and made men of -business before they are sixteen, are alike deficient in any thing like -diffidence; and I really have been all but disconcerted at the perfect -assurance with which I have been addressed, upon any and every subject, -by little men and women just half way through their teens. That very -common character amongst us, a shy man, is not to be met with in these -latitudes. An American conversing on board one of their steam-boats is -immediately surrounded, particularly if his conversation, though -strictly directed to one individual, is of a political nature; in an -instant a ring of spectators is formed round him, and whereas an -Englishman would become silent at the very first appearance of a -listener, an American, far from seeming abashed at this "audience," -continues his discourse, which thus assumes the nature of an harangue, -with perfect equanimity, and feels no annoyance whatever at having -unfolded his private opinions of men and matters to a circle of forty or -fifty people whom they could in no possible way concern. Speechifying is -a very favourite species of exhibition with the men here, by the by; -and, besides being self possessed, they are all remarkably fluent. -Really eloquent men are just as rare in this country as in any other, -but the "gift of the gab" appears to me more widely disseminated amongst -Americans than any other people in the world. Many things go to make -good speakers of them: great acuteness, and sound common sense, -sufficient general knowledge, and great knowledge of the world, an -intense interest in every political measure, no matter how trivial in -itself, no sense of bashfulness, and a great readiness of expression. -But to return to the manners of the young American girls:—It is -Rousseau, I think, who says, "Dans un pays où les mœurs sont pures, -les filles seront faciles, et les femmes sévères." This applies -particularly well to the carriage of the American women. When remarking -to a gentleman once the difference between the manners of my own young -countrywomen and his, I expressed my disapprobation of the education -which led to such a result, he replied, "You forget the comparatively -pure state of morals in our country, which admits of this degree of -freedom in our young women, without its rendering them liable to insult -or misconstruction." This is true, and it is also most true, for I have -seen repeated instances of it, that those very girls, whose manners have -been most displeasing to my European ways of feeling, whom I should have -pointed out as romps and flirts pre-eminent, not only make excellent -wives, but from the very moment of their marriage seem to forsake -society, and devote themselves exclusively to household duties and -retirement. But that I have seen and known of repeated instances of -this, I could scarcely have believed it, but it is the case; and a young -American lady, speaking upon this subject, said to me, "We enjoy -ourselves before marriage; but in your country, girls marry to obtain a -greater degree of freedom, and indulge in the pleasures and dissipations -of society." She was not, I think, greatly mistaken.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> For the origin of this curious name, see that interesting -and veracious work, the history of Knickerbocker.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> Famous as the scene of Ichabod Crane's exploits.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> If the results answer to the means employed, the pupils of -West Point ought to turn out accomplished scholars in every branch of -human learning, as well as ripe soldiers and skilful engineers. Their -course of education consists of almost every study within the range of -man's capacity; and as the school discipline is unusually strict, their -hours of labour many, and of recreation very few, they should he able to -boast of many "wise men" among their number. However it is here, I -imagine, as elsewhere; where studies are pursued laboriously for a -length of time, variety becomes a necessary relief to the mental powers, -and so far the multiplicity of objects of acquirement may be excused; -but surely, to combine in the education of one youth the elements of -half a dozen sciences, each one of which would wear out a man's life in -the full understanding of it, is not the best system of instruction. -However, it is the one now universally adopted, and tends to give more -smatterers in science than scientific men to the world. The military -part of their education is, however, what the pupils of West Point are -most exercised in, and, so far as one so ignorant of such matters as -myself can judge, I should imagine the system adopted calculated to make -expert artillerymen and engineers of them. Their deportment, and the way -they went through their evolutions on the parade, did not appear to me -very steady—there was a want of correctness of carriage, generally, and -of absolute precision of movement, which one accustomed to the -manœuvring of regular troops detects immediately. There are several -large pieces of ordnance kept in the gun-room, some of which were taken -from the English; and I remarked a pretty little brass cannon, which -almost looked plaything, which bore the broad arrow and the name of -Saratoga.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> It might be a curious and interesting matter of research -to determine under what combination of external circumstances the spirit -of poetry flourishes most vigorously, and good poets have most abounded. -The extremes of poverty and luxury seem alike inimical to its -well-being; yet the latter far more so than the former, for most poets -have been poor; some so poor, as to enrich the world, while they -themselves received so little return from its favour as miserably to -perish of want. Again, the level tenor of a life alike removed from want -and superfluity should seem too devoid of interest or excitement to make -a good poet. Long-lived competency is more favourable to the even temper -of philosophy than the fiery nature of one who must know the storms of -passion, and all the fiercer elements of which the acting and suffering -soul of man is made. Again, it would be curious to know, if it might be -ascertained, whether those men whose inspirations have been aided alone -by the contemplation of the inanimate beauties of nature, and the -phenomena of their own minds and the minds and lives of their fellows, -have been as great poets as those who, besides these sources of -inspiration, fed the power within them with the knowledge of great -writers and poets of other countries and times. Another question, which -it would be interesting to determine, would be, under what species of -government poets have been most numerous, and most honoured. As our -modern exploders of old fallacies have not yet made up their minds -whether such a person as Homer ever lived, it is rather a vain labour of -imagination to determine whether this great king of all poets flourished -under a monarchy or in a republic; certain it is, he sang of kings and -princes in right lordly style: be that as it may, we have rather better -authority for believing that the Greek dramatists, those masters, and -sometime models, of their peculiar branch of the art, flourished under -republican governments; but with them, I think, ends the list of -republican poets of great and universal fame. Rome had no poets till she -had emperors. Italy was, it is true, divided into so called republics -dining the golden age of her literature; but they were so in name alone; -the spirit of equality had long departed from the soil, and they were -merely prouder and more arbitrary aristocracies than have ever existed -under any monarchy in the world. If ever France can be said to have had -a poetical age, it was during the magnificent reign of Louis the -Fourteenth, that pageant that prepared the bloodiest tragedy in the -pages of history. England offers the only exception that I have -advanced, namely, that the republican form of government is inimical to -poetry. For it was during the short and shameful period of fanatical -republicanism, which blots her annals, that the glory and the might of -Milton rose upon the world; he is the only great poet who ever -flourished under a republic; and he was rather the poet of heaven and -hell, than of earth: his subjects are either biblical or mythological; -and however his stern and just spirit might advocate the cause of -equality and universal freedom in the more arid regions of political and -theological controversies, in his noblest and greatest capacity he has -sung of angels and archangels, the starry hierarchy of heaven, where -some of the blessed wore a brighter glory than their fellows, where some -were inferior to other celestial powers, and where God was King supreme -over all. In heaven, Milton dreamt of no republics, nor in hell either.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> It is quite curious to observe how utterly unknown a thing -a <i>really</i> well-broken horse is in this country. I have just bought one -who was highly approved and recommended by several gentlemen considered -here as learned in all these matters; and of my own knowledge, I might -hunt the Union over and not find a better. As far as the make, and -beauty, and disposition of the animal goes, there is no fault to find; -but this <i>lady's horse</i> never had a woman on its back, had never been -ridden but with a snaffle bit, and, until she came into my possession, -did not know how to canter with her right foot. When the Americans say a -horse is well broken, they mean it is not wild.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> The various censures which English travellers have -bestowed upon various things in this country are constantly, both in -private conversation and the public prints, attributed to <i>English -jealousy</i>. I confess I have been amused at the charge, and can only -sincerely hope I may not draw down so awful an accusation on myself, -when I declare, that, during a three years' residence in America, almost -every article, of every description, which I have had made, has been ill -made, and obliged to undergo manifold alterations. I don't pretend to -account for the fact, for fear the obvious reasons might appear to find -their source in that very small jealousy of which England is guilty -towards this country, in the person of her journal-scribbling -travellers; but to the fact there is and can be no denial.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> When you carry your complaint of careless work, or want of -punctuality, to the tradespeople whom you employ here, the unfortunate -principals really excite your sympathy by their helpless situation with -regard to the free republicans whom they employ, and who, with the utter -contempt of subordination which the cheapness of living, and the spirit -of license (not liberty) produce among the lower classes here, come when -they please, depart when they like, work when they choose, and, if you -remonstrate, take themselves off to new masters, secure of employment in -your neighbour's house, if your mode of employing them displeases them. -Manifold are the lamentations I have heard, of "Oh, ma'am, this is not -like the old country; we can't get journeymen to work here, ma'am; we're -obliged to do just as our workmen please, ma'am." One poor French -dress-maker appeared to me on the verge of distraction, from the utter -impossibility of keeping in any order a tribe of sewing girls, whom she -seemed to pay on purpose that they might drive her crazy; and my -shoemaker assured me the other day, with a most woful face, that it was -election week, and that if I was as suffering for shoes as a lady could -be, I could not have mine till the political cobblers in his employ had -settled the "business of the nation" to their satisfaction. Patience is -the only remedy. Whoever lives here, that has ever lived elsewhere, -should come provided with it.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> This description may amaze sundry narrow-minded and -prejudiced dwellers in those unhappy countries where standing armies are -among the standing abuses, and the miserable stipendiaries of hoary -tyrannies go about wearing the livery of their trade with a slavish -unanimity becoming alone to hirelings and salaried butchers base. But -whoever should imagine that the members of an enlightened and free -republic must, because they condescend to become soldiers, for the pure -love of their country, behave as soldiers also, would draw foolish -conclusions. Discipline, order, a peculiar carriage, a particular dress, -obedience to superiors, and observance of rules, these, indeed, may all -be the attributes of such miserable creatures as are content to receive -wages for their blood. But for free Americans! why should they not walk -crooked, in the defence of their country, if they don't like to walk -straight? why should they not carry their guns on their shoulders -instead of upright, if they please? and why, since they chose to defend -their lives and liberties by becoming volunteers, should they not stick -any feathers, of any colours that they like in their caps—black, white, -or green? Is the noble occupation of war incompatible with the still -nobler possession of freedom? Heaven forbid! and long live the American -militia, to prove their entire compatibility.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> The militia has fallen into disrepute of late in New York -and Philadelphia. Trainings and parades take too much of the precious -time, whose minutes are cents, and hours dollars. The only instance of -humour, national or individual, which I have witnessed since my abode in -this country, was a sham parade got up in mimicry of the real one here -described. In this grotesque procession, every man was dressed in the -most absurd costume he could devise: banners with the most ludicrous -inscriptions, wooden swords of gigantic dimensions, and children's -twopenny guns, were some of their paraphernalia; and, in the absurd and -monstrous objects the men had made of themselves, with false whiskers, -beards, and noses, I recognised some of the broad, coarse, powerful -humour of the lower orders in the old country. But it is the <i>only</i> -symptom of such a spirit which I have met with. The absolute absence of -imagination, of course, is also the absolute absence of humour. An -American can no more understand a fanciful jest than a poetical idea; -and in society and conversation the strictest matter of fact prevails: -for any thing departing from it, though but an inch, either towards the -sublime or the ridiculous, becomes immediately incomprehensible to your -auditors, who will stare at your enthusiasm, and sincerely ask you the -meaning of your jest.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> A place devoted to political meetings, chiefly, however, I -believe, those termed here "democratic."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> It is the property of perfection alone to rivet the -admiration of absolute ignorance; whence I conclude that the river -craft, hovering from morning till night along the waters that surround -New York, must be the most beautiful in the world. Their lightness, -grace, swiftness, and strength, appear to me unequalled. Such beautiful -vessels I never saw; more beautiful ones I cannot imagine.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_68_68" id="Footnote_68_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> In Canova's group of Cupid and Psyche, the young god is -smiling like a god; but the eager parted lips with which Psyche is -seeking his, wear no such expression—you might fancy they trembled, but -they certainly do not smile.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_69_69" id="Footnote_69_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69_69"><span class="label">[69]</span></a> The ladies of New York, and all lady-like people there, -have agreed to call this eddy <i>Hurl</i>-gate. The superior propriety of -this name is not to be questioned; for hell is a shocking bad word, no -doubt: but, being infinitely more appropriate to the place and its -qualities, I have ventured to mention it.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_70_70" id="Footnote_70_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70_70"><span class="label">[70]</span></a> The ladies here have an extreme aversion to being called -<i>women</i>, I don't exactly understand why. Their idea is, that that term -designates only the lower or less-refined classes of female human-kind. -This is a mistake which I wonder they should fall into; for in all -countries in the world, queens, duchesses, and countesses, are called -women; but in this one alone, washerwomen, sempstresses, and housemaids -are entitled <i>ladies</i>; so that, in fact, here woman is by far the more -desirable appellation of the two.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_71_71" id="Footnote_71_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71_71"><span class="label">[71]</span></a> The established succession of figures which form the <i>one</i> -French quadrille, in executing which the ball-rooms of Paris and London -have spent so many satisfactory hours ever since it was invented, by no -means satisfies the Americans. At the close of almost every quadrille, a -<i>fancy</i> figure is danced, which, depending entirely upon the directions -of the leader of the band, is a very curious medley of all the rest. The -company not being gifted with second sight, and of course not knowing at -every step what next they may be called upon to do, go fearfully sliding -along, looking at each other, asking, "how does it go on?" some <i>en -avant deux-ing</i>, while others are starting off <i>en promenade</i>, the whole -being a complete confusion of purpose and execution. The common French -figure, the Trénis, is very seldom danced at all,—they do not appear to -know it.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_72_72" id="Footnote_72_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72_72"><span class="label">[72]</span></a> This terrible nuisance has often made me wish for that -"still small voice," which has become the universal tone of good society -in England, and which, however inconvenient sometimes from its utter -inaudibility, at least did not send one to bed with one's ears ringing -and one's head splitting. I was in a society of about twelve ladies, the -other evening, and the <i>uproar</i> was so excessive that I felt my eyebrows -contracting from a sense of perfect bewilderment, occasioned by the -noise all round me, and more than once was obliged to request the person -with whom I was conversing to stop till the <i>noise</i> had subsided a -little, that I might be able to distinguish what he was saying to me. -Were the women here large and masculine in their appearance, this defect -would appear less strange, though not less disagreeable; but they are -singularly delicate and feminine in their style of beauty; and the noise -they make strikes one with surprise as something monstrous and -unnatural—like mice roaring. They frequently talk four or five at a -time, and directly across each other; neither of which proceedings is -exactly according to my ideas of good breeding.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_73_73" id="Footnote_73_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73_73"><span class="label">[73]</span></a> Unromantic as these birds are in their external -appearance, there is something poetical in their love of sunny skies. -Many attempts have been made to rear them in England; but I am told that -they will not sing there, or indeed any where but where the sun shines -as it does here.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_74_74" id="Footnote_74_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74_74"><span class="label">[74]</span></a> In speaking of the bad and disagreeable results of the -political institutions of this country, as exhibited in the feelings and -manners of the lower orders, I have every where dwelt upon those which, -from my own disposition, and the opinions and sentiments in which I have -been educated, have struck me most, and most unfavourably. But I should -be sorry to be so blind, or so prejudiced, as not to perceive the great -moral goods which arise from the very same source, and display -themselves strongly in the same class of people: <i>honesty</i> and <i>truth</i>, -excellences so great, that the most bigoted worshipper of the forms and -divisions of societies in the old world would surely be ashamed to weigh -them in the balance against the deference there paid to rank or riches, -or even the real and very agreeable qualities of civility and courtesy. -Americans (I speak now of the <i>people</i>, not the gentlemen and ladies, -<i>they</i> are neither so honest and true, nor quite so rude,) are indeed -independent. Every man that will work a little can live extremely well. -No portion of the country is yet overstocked with followers of trades, -not even the Atlantic cities. Living is cheap—labour is dear. To -conclude, as the Irish woman said, "It is a darling country for poor -folks; for if I work three days in the week, can't I lie in my bed the -other three if I plase?" This being so, all dealings between -handicraftsmen and those who employ them; tradesmen and those who buy of -them; servants and those who are served by them; are conducted upon the -most entire system of reciprocity of advantage; indeed, if any thing, -the obligation appears always to lie on that party which, with us, is -generally supposed to confer it. Thus,—my shoemaker, a person with whom -I have now dealt largely for two years, said to me the other day, upon -my remonstrating about being obliged regularly to come to his shop and -unboot, whenever I order a new pair of walking-boots—"Well, ma'am, we -can keep your measure certainly, <i>to oblige you</i>, but, as a rule, we -don't do it for any of our customers, it's so very troublesome." These -people are, then, as I said before, most truly independent; they are -therefore never servile, and but seldom civil, but for the very same -reason they do not rob you; they do not need to do so; neither do they -lie to you, for your favour or displeasure in no way affects their -interest. If you entrust to their care materials of any sort to make up, -you are sure, no matter how long you may leave them in their hands, or -how entirely you may have forgotten the quantity originally given, to -have every inch of them returned to you: and you are also generally sure -that any question you ask, with regard to the quality of what you -purchase, will be answered without any endeavour to impose upon you, or -palm upon your ignorance that which is worse for that which is better. -Two circumstances, which have come under my own knowledge, will serve to -illustrate the spirit of the people; and they are good illustrations to -quote, for similar circumstances are of daily and hourly occurrence. -</p><p> -A farmer who is in the habit of calling at our house on his way to -market, with eggs, poultry, etc., being questioned as to whether the -eggs were new-laid, replied, without an instant's hesitation, "No, not -the <i>very</i> fresh ones, <i>we eat all those ourselves</i>." -</p><p> -On returning home late from the play one night, I could not find my -slippers any where, and, after some useless searching, performed my -toilet for bed without them. The next morning, on enquiring of my maid -if she knew any thing of them, she replied with perfect equanimity, that -having walked home through the snow, and got her feet extremely wet, she -had put them on, and forgotten to restore them to their place before my -return. Nobody, I think, will doubt that an English farmer, and an -English servant, might sell stale eggs, and use their mistress's -slippers; but I think it highly doubtful, that either fact would have -been acknowledged with such perfect honesty any where but here. As to -the servants here, except the blacks, and the poor Irish bread-hunters -who come over, there are scarcely any to be found: the very name seems -repugnant to an American; and however high their wages, and easy their -situation, they seem hardly to be able to endure the bitterness of -subserviency and subordination.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_75_75" id="Footnote_75_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75_75"><span class="label">[75]</span></a> The bridges here are all made of wood, and for the most -part covered. Those which are so are by no means unpicturesque objects. -The one-arched bridge at Fair Mount is particularly light and graceful -in its appearance: at a little distance, it looks like a scarf, rounded -by the wind, flung over the river.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_76_76" id="Footnote_76_76"></a><a href="#FNanchor_76_76"><span class="label">[76]</span></a> The time of locking of doors at gentlemen's dinner -parties, and drinking till the company dropped one by one under the -table, has, with the equally disgusting habit of spitting about the -floors, long vanished in England before a more rational hospitality, and -a better understanding of the very first rule of good breeding, not to -do that which is to offend others. Spirituous liquors are the fashion -alone among the numerous frequenters of the gin-palaces of Holborn, and -St. Giles's; even the old-fashioned favourites of our country gentlemen, -port, madeira, and sherry, are found too heavy and strongly-flavoured -for the palate of our modern exquisites,—and the fragrant and delicate -wines of Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Rhine, and its tributary streams, are -the wines now preferred before all others, by persons of refined taste -and moderate indulgence. This in itself is a great improvement. The -gross desire of excitement by a quantity of powerful stimulants has -given place to a temperate enjoyment of things, in themselves certainly -the most excellent in the world. Wine-drinking in England is become -altogether a species of <i>dilettante</i> taste, instead of the disgusting -excess it used to be; it is indulged in with extreme moderation,—and so -much have all coarse and thick-blooded drinks gone out of fashion, that -even liqueurs are very seldom taken after coffee but by foreigners. Our -gentlemen have learnt to consider hard and gross drinking ungentlemanly. -I wish I could say the same of American gentlemen. The quantity and the -quality of their potations are as destructive of every thing like -refinement of palate, as detrimental to their health. Americans are, -generally speaking, the very worst judges of wine in the world, always -excepting madeira, which they have in great perfection, and is the only -wine of which they are tolerable judges. One reason of their ignorance -upon this subject is the extremely indifferent quality of the foreign -wines imported here, and a still more powerful reason, is the total loss -of all niceness of taste consequent upon their continual swallowing of -mint julaps, gin slings, brandy cocktails, and a thousand strong messes -which they take <i>even before breakfast</i>, and indifferently at all hours -of the day,—a practice as gross in taste as injurious to health. -Burgundy I have never seen at an American table: I believe it will not -stand the sea voyage. Claret they have now in very great perfection, -thanks to Mr. ——, who has introduced it among them, and deserves to be -considered a public benefactor therefor. Hock is, generally speaking, -utterly undrinkable, and champagne (the only foreign wine of which they -seem generally fond), though some of a good quality is occasionally -presented to you, is for the most part a very nauseous compound, in -which sugar is the only perceptible flavour. Although the American -gentlemen do not indeed lock the doors upon their guests, they have two -habits equally fatal to their sobriety, of which I have heard several -Englishmen complain bitterly. The one is mixing their wines in a most -unorthodox manner, equally distressing to the palate and the stomach; -<i>i. e.</i> giving you to drink by turns, after dinner, claret, madeira, -sherry, hock, champagne, all and each of which you are pressed to take -as specimens of excellence in their various ways, forming altogether a -vinous hotch-potch, which confounds alike the taste and the brain. The -second ordeal, to which the sobriety of Englishmen dining out here is -exposed, is at the close of all these various libations,—which of -course last some time,—an instantaneous removal from the dinner to the -supper table, where strong <i>whisky punch</i> effectually <i>finishes</i> the -wits of their guests, and sends them home to repent for two days the -excess of a few hours. Perhaps, when the real meaning of the word -<i>society</i> becomes better understood in this country, absurd display and -disgusting intemperance will no more be resorted to as its necessary -accompaniments; but of course the <i>real</i> material of which society -should be formed must increase a little first. I have been told that the -women in this country drink. I never saw but one circumstance which -would lead me to believe the assertion. At the baths in New York, one -day, I saw the girl who was waiting upon the rooms carry mint julaps (a -preparation of mint, sugar, and brandy,) into three of them. I was much -surprised, and asked her if this was a piece of service she often -performed for the ladies who visited the baths? She said, "Yes, pretty -often." Bar-rooms are annexed to every species of public building,—in -the theatres, in the hotels, in the bath-houses, on board the -steam-boats,—and there are even temporary buildings which serve this -purpose erected at certain distances along the rail-roads. Though the -gentlemen drink more than any other <i>gentlemen</i>, the lower orders here -are more temperate than with us. The appearance of a drunken man in the -streets is comparatively rare here; and certainly Sunday is not, as with -us, the appointed day for this disgusting vice among the lower classes -here. Fortunately, most fortunately, it is not with them as with us, the -only day on which the poor have rest, or drunkenness the only substitute -they can find for every other necessary or comfort of life. Our poor are -indeed intemperate. Alas! that vice of theirs will surely be visited on -others; for it is the offspring of their misery. The effects of habitual -intemperance in this country are lamentably visible in many young men of -respectable stations and easy circumstances; and it is by no means -uncommon to hear of young gentlemen—persons who rank as such -here—destroying their health, their faculties, and eventually their -lives, at a most untimely age, by this debasing habit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_77_77" id="Footnote_77_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77_77"><span class="label">[77]</span></a> There is a species of home religion, so to speak, which is -kept alive by the gathering together of families at stated periods of -joy and festivity, which has a far deeper moral than most people -imagine. The merry-making at Christmas, the watching out the old year, -and in the new, the royalty of Twelfth-night, the keeping of birth-days, -and anniversaries of weddings, are things which, to the worldly-wise in -these wise times, may savour of childishness or superstition; but they -tend to promote and keep alive some of the sweetest charities and -kindliest sympathies of our poor nature. While we are yet children, -these days are set in golden letters in the calendar,—long looked -forward to,—enjoyed with unmixed delight,—the peculiar seasons of new -frocks, new books, new toys, drinking of healths, bestowing of blessings -and wishes by kindred and parents, and being brought into the notice of -our elders, and, as children used to think in the dark ages, therefore -their betters. To the older portion of the community, such times were -times of many mingled emotions, all, all of a softening if not of so -exhilarating a nature. The cares, the toils, of the world had become -their portion,—some little of its coldness, its selfishness, and sad -guardedness had crept upon them,—distance and various interests, and -the weary works of life had engrossed their thoughts, and turned their -hearts and their feet from the dear household paths, and the early -fellowship of home; but at these seasons the world was in its turn -pushed aside for a moment,—the old thresholds were crossed by those who -had ceased to dwell in the house of their birth,—kindred and friends -met again, as in the early days of childhood and youth, under the same -roof-tree,—the nursery revel, and the school-day jubilee, was recalled -to their thoughts by the joyful voices and faces of a new -generation,—the blessed and holy influences of home flowed back into -their souls, at such a time, by a thousand channels,—the heart was -warmed with the kind old love and fellowship,—face brightened to -kindred face, and hand grasped the hand where the same blood was -flowing, and all the evil deeds of time seemed for a while retrieved. -These were holy and happy seasons. Oh, England! dear, dear England! this -sweet sacred worship, next to that of God the highest and purest, was -long cherished in your soil, where the word home was surely more -hallowed than any other save heaven. Far, far off be the day when a cold -and narrow spirit shall quench in you these dear and good human -yearnings, and make the consecrated earth around our door-stones as -barren as the wide wilderness of life in strange lands. In this country -I have been mournfully struck with the absence of every thing like this -home-clinging. Here are comparatively no observances of tides and times. -Christmas-day is no religious day, and hardly a holiday with them. -New-year's day is perhaps a little, but only a little, more so. For -Twelfth-day, it is unknown; and the household private festivals of -birth-days are almost universally passed by unsevered from the rest of -the toilsome days devoted to the curse of labour. Indeed, the young -American leaves so soon the shelter of his home, the world so early -becomes to him a home, that the happy and powerful influences and -associations of that word to him are hardly known. Sent forth to earn -his existence at the very opening time of mind and heart, like a young -green-house plant just budding that should be thrust out into the colder -air, the blight of worldliness, of coldness, and of care, drive in the -coming blossoms; and if the tree lives, half its loveliness and half its -<i>usefulness</i> are shorn from it. These are some of the consequences of -the universal doom of Americans, to labour for their bread: there are -others and better ones.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_78_78" id="Footnote_78_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78_78"><span class="label">[78]</span></a> This happened on board a <i>western</i> steam-boat, I beg to -observe, if it happened at all.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_79_79" id="Footnote_79_79"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79_79"><span class="label">[79]</span></a> The evanescent nature of his triumph, however an actor may -deplore it, is in fact but an instance of the broad moral justice by -which all things are so evenly balanced. If he can hope for no fame -beyond mere mention, when once his own generation passes away, at least -his power, and his glory, and his reign is in his own person, and during -his own life. There is scarcely to be conceived a popularity for the -moment more intoxicating than that of a great actor in his day, so much -of it becomes mixed up with the individual himself. The poet, the -painter, and the sculptor, enchant us through their works; and, with -very very few exceptions, their works, and not their very persons, are -the objects of admiration and applause: it is to their minds we are -beholden; and though a certain degree of curiosity and popularity -necessarily wait even upon their bodily presence, it is faint compared -with that which is bestowed upon the actor; and for good reasons—he is -himself his work. His voice, his eyes, his gesture, are his art, and -admiration of it cannot be separated from admiration for him. This -renders the ephemeral glory which he earns so vivid, and in some measure -may be supposed to compensate for its short duration. The great of the -earth, whose fame has arisen like the shining of the sun, have often -toiled through their whole lives in comparative obscurity, through the -narrow and dark paths of existence. Their reward was never given to -their hands here,—it is but just glory should be lasting.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_80_80" id="Footnote_80_80"></a><a href="#FNanchor_80_80"><span class="label">[80]</span></a> Another house has been opened at Baltimore within the last -year, which, though unfinished at the time of our lodging there, -promised to be extremely comfortable. The building adjoined, and indeed -formed, part of the Exchange; the vestibule of which is the only very -beautiful piece of architecture I have seen here. It is very beautiful.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_81_81" id="Footnote_81_81"></a><a href="#FNanchor_81_81"><span class="label">[81]</span></a> This very romantic piece of gallantry (serenading) is very -common in this country. How it comes to be so I can't quite make out; -for it is not at all of a piece with the national manners or tone of -feeling. It's very agreeable, though, and is an anomaly worth -cultivating.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_82_82" id="Footnote_82_82"></a><a href="#FNanchor_82_82"><span class="label">[82]</span></a> I have heard it several times asserted, that Catholicism -was gaining ground extremely in this country. Surely the Preacher sayeth -well, "The thing which has been, it is that which shall be, and there is -nothing new beneath the sun." Is it not a marvellous thing to think of, -that that mighty tree which has overshadowed the whole of the Christian -world, under whose branches all the European empires were cradled, and -which we have with our own eyes beheld droop, and fade, and totter, as -it does at this moment in the old soils,—is it not strange to think of -the seed being carried, and the roots taking hold in this new earth, -perhaps to send up another such giant shadow over this hemisphere? Its -growth here appears to me almost impossible; for if ever there were two -things more opposite in their nature than all other things, they are the -spirit of the Roman Catholic religion and the spirit of the American -people. It's true, that of the thousands who take refuge from poverty -upon this plenteous land, the greater number bring with them that creed, -but the very air they inhale here presently gives them a political -faith, so utterly incompatible with the spirit of subjection, that I -shall think the Catholic priesthood here workers of miracles, to retain -any thing like the influence over their minds which they possessed in -those countries, where all creeds, political and polemical, have but one -watch-word—faith and submission.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_83_83" id="Footnote_83_83"></a><a href="#FNanchor_83_83"><span class="label">[83]</span></a> In most European countries, the seat of government and -residence of the ruling powers and foreign ambassadors is the capital, -and generally the largest, most populous, most wealthy, and most -influential city of the kingdom—the place of all others to which -travellers would resort to become acquainted with its political, -literary, and social spirit. In this, however, as in most other -respects, this country differs from all others; and the spirit of -independence, which renders every state a republic within itself, gives -to each its own capital, the superior merits of which are advocated with -no little pride and jealousy by the natives of the state to which it -belongs. Thus, New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Charleston, -and New Orleans, are all capitals; each of them fulfilling in a much -higher degree than Washington the foreigner's idea of that word. Indeed -I cannot conceive any thing that would more amaze an European than to be -transported into Washington, and told he was in the metropolis of the -United States; nor, indeed, could any thing give him a less just idea of -the curious political construction, and widely-scattered resources, of -the country. Washington, in fact, is to America what Downing and -Parliament Streets are to London—a congregation of government offices; -where political characters, secretaries, clerks, place-holders, and -place-seekers, most do congregate.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_84_84" id="Footnote_84_84"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84_84"><span class="label">[84]</span></a> As the winter resort of all the leading political men of -the Union, Washington presents many attractions in point of society. -Their wives and daughters, frequently the reigning beauties of their -respective states and towns, generally accompany them thither during the -session; and this congregating of people from all parts of the country, -together with the foreign ministers residing there, and the travellers -drawn thither from mere curiosity, combine to give more variety to the -gaieties of Washington than those of any of the other cities in the -Union can boast. The Capitol is a favourite lounge in the morning; and -the American lady-politicians are just as zealous in their respective -parties as our own. I don't know, however, that they would much relish -listening to a long debate from that dismal hole, the lantern of the -House of Commons, where one may listen, indeed and even just manage to -see, but where to <i>be seen</i> is an utter impossibility; neither do I -think that many of them would stand for four long hours, as Miss —— -and poor Lady —— did, during Brougham's famous reform bill speech.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_85_85" id="Footnote_85_85"></a><a href="#FNanchor_85_85"><span class="label">[85]</span></a> The love of the sublime and beautiful, those aspirations -after something more refined, more exalted and perfect, than this world -affords, in short, that spiritual propensity classed in its many and -various manifestations by the phrenologists under the title of -<i>ideality</i>, will have some vent, and, under circumstances most adverse -to its existence, will creep out at some channel or another, and -vindicate human nature by flourishing in some shape over the narrowest, -homeliest, lowliest, and least favourable guise it may put on. Certainly -America is nothe country of large idealities,—it is the very reverse; -if I may create a bump, it is the country of large realities, <i>i. e.</i> -large acquisitiveness, large causality, large caution, and small -veneration and wonder. Nathless some ideality must needs be, and is, and -it creeps out in Christian names. I have heard sempstresses called -Amanda and Emmeline, and we had a housemaid in New England called -Cynthia. Our village carpenter is named Rudolph; and if the spirit of -the people appears to me unimaginative and unpoetical, I take great -comfort in their fine names.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_86_86" id="Footnote_86_86"></a><a href="#FNanchor_86_86"><span class="label">[86]</span></a> I am neither sufficiently interested nor sufficiently well -informed in the politics of this country to have conceived any opinion -of General Jackson, beyond that which the floating discussions of the -day might suggest. Of his merits as a statesman I am totally incapable -of judging, or of the effect which his peculiar policy is calculated to -have upon the country. When first I came here I heard and saw that he -was the man of the people. In the dispute with South Carolina, his -firmness and decision of character struck me a good deal; and when, in -consequence of the temporary distress occasioned by his alteration of -the currency, a universal howl was for a short time raised against him, -which he withstood without a moment's flinching, I honoured him greatly. -Of his measures I know nothing; but firmness, determination, decision, I -respect above all things: and if the old General is, as they say, very -obstinate, why obstinacy is so far more estimable than weakness, -<i>especially</i> in a ruler, that I think he sins on the right side of the -question.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_87_87" id="Footnote_87_87"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87_87"><span class="label">[87]</span></a> The national vanity of the French, and pride and prejudice -of the English are proverbial: it is, however, fortunate for both that -they carry these qualities to such an excess, that it is a matter of -extreme difficulty to shake the good opinion which they entertain of -themselves. Thus, foreigners may visit England, as Frenchmen have done, -and swear that the sun never shines there, and that the only ripe fruit -the country affords is roasted apples. John Bull, nothing wroth, wraps -himself still closer in his own dear self-approval, and, in the -plenitude of self-content, drinks his brown stout, and basks by -gas-light. On his part, he goes over to Paris, votes the whole <i>beau -pays de France</i> horrible, because he can't get port wine to drink, or -boiled potatoes to eat; in spite of which, Monsieur does not attempt to -turn him out of his country, but eats his ragouts, and drinks his -chablis, and shrugs his shoulders at the savage islander, from the -seventh heaven of self-satisfaction. It were much to be desired that -Americans had a little <i>more</i> national vanity, or national pride. Such -an unhappily sensitive community surely never existed in this world; and -the vengeance with which they visit people for saying they don't admire -or like them, would be really terrible if the said people were but as -mortally afraid of abuse as they seem to be. I would not advise either -Mrs. Trollope, Basil Hall, or Captain Hamilton, ever to set their feet -upon this ground again, unless they are ambitious of being stoned to -death. I live myself in daily expectation of martyrdom; and as for any -body attempting to earn a livelihood here who has but as much as said he -prefers the country where he was born to this, he would stand a much -better chance of thriving if he were to begin business after confinement -in the penitentiary. This unhappy species of irritability is carried to -such a degree here, that if you express an unfavourable opinion of any -thing, the people are absolutely astonished at your temerity. I -remember, to my no little amusement, a lady saying to me once, "I hear -you are going to abuse us dreadfully; of course, you'll wait till you go -back to England, and then shower it down upon us finely." I assured her -I was not in the least afraid of staying where I was, and saying what I -thought at the same time.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_88_88" id="Footnote_88_88"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88_88"><span class="label">[88]</span></a> I have been assured, I know not how truly, that the whole -of this affair originated with an <i>Englishman</i>. This piece of -information was given me by a person who said he knew such to be the -fact, and also knew the man.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_89_89" id="Footnote_89_89"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89_89"><span class="label">[89]</span></a> It may not be amiss here to say one word with regard to -the <i>gratitude</i> which audiences in some parts of the world claim from -actors, and about which I have lately heard a most alarming outcry. Do -actors generally exercise their profession to please themselves and -gratify their own especial delight in self-exhibition? Is that -profession in its highest walks one of small physical exertion and -fatigue (I say nothing of mental exertion), and in its lower paths is it -one of much gain, glory, or ease? Do audiences, on the other hand, use -to come in crowds to play-houses to see indifferent performers? and when -there, do they, out of pure charity and good-will, bestow their applause -as well as their money upon tiresome performances? I will answer these -points as far as regards myself, and therein express the gratitude which -I feel towards the frequenters of theatres. I individually disliked my -profession, and had neither pride nor pleasure in the exercise of it. I -exercised it as a matter of necessity, to earn my bread,—and verily it -was in the sweat of my brow. The parts which fell to my lot were of a -most laborious nature, and occasioned sometimes violent mental -excitement, always immense physical exertion, and sometimes both. In -those humbler walks of my profession, from whose wearisomeness I was -exempted by my sudden favour with the public, I have seen, though not -known, the most painful drudgery,—the most constant fatigue,—the most -sad contrast between real cares and feigned merriments,—the most -anxious, penurious, and laborious existence imaginable. For the part of -my questions which regarded the audiences, I have only to say, that I -never knew, saw, heard, or read of any set of people who went to a -play-house to see what they did not like; this being the case, it never -occurred to me that our houses were full but as a necessary consequence -of our own attraction, or that we were applauded but as the result of -our own exertions. I was glad the houses were full, because I was -earning my livelihood, and wanted the money; and I was glad the people -applauded us, because it is pleasant to please, and human vanity will -find some sweetness in praise, even when reason weighs its worth most -justly. Thus I cannot say that in general I had any great <i>gratitude</i> -towards my audiences. Once or twice, however, that feeling was excited -between me and my witnesses, and the circumstance of which I have spoken -in my journal was one of the instances. But this was a different matter -altogether. I was no longer before an audience labouring for their -approbation as an actress. I was dragged before so many judges in my own -person, to answer for words spoken in private conversation. The same -clapping of hands, with which they rewarded my exertions in my -profession, was the only method by which they could intimate the "not -guilty," which was their judgment upon the appeal that had been made to -them against me; but with this difference, that I never felt <i>obliged</i> -to them, or <i>grateful</i> for their applause before, and did feel obliged -and grateful for their verdict then. Now, as regards the benefit-nights -of actors, I do not observe that even on these occasions much -<i>gratitude</i> is owing to the people who attend them; for I know, and so -does every member of the profession, that the oldest and best actor on -any stage,—the one who for a series of years has appeared before -audiences to whom his private respectability and worth were well -known,—the longest-established <i>favourite</i> of the public (as they are -termed), will assuredly have empty houses on his benefit-nights, if, -trusting to the feeling of that public, to whom he owes so much -gratitude, he failed to secure the assistance of whatever star -(tragedian, pantomimist, or dancing dog, it matters not which), happens -to be the newest object of attraction. I speak all this more -particularly as regards this country, for it is here that I have heard -most of this species of cant. Gratitude is a good word and an excellent -thing, and neither in speaking or acting should it be misapplied. In the -aristocratical lands over the water, this nonsense about patronage might -surprise one less; but in America it seems strange there should be any -mistake about a simple matter of traffic—'tis nothing in life else. We -give our health, our strength, our leisure, and our pleasure, for your -money and your applause, neither of which do we beg or borrow from you. -This being the case, where lies the obligation, and where the gratitude? -As to the pretty speeches which actors make when called from behind the -curtain, they always appeared to me very much of the same order as -advertisements in newspapers—A. D. returns his grateful acknowledgments -to the public for their liberal support, etc., etc. That calling -performers on after a play is a foreign, not an English, custom, and, to -my mind, one more honoured in the breach than in the observance. -Extraordinary occasions might warrant extraordinary demonstrations; but -it is a pity to make that a common ceremony, which, rarely granted, -would be a gratifying testimony of feeling, and excite rational -<i>gratitude</i> in those on whom it was conferred.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_90_90" id="Footnote_90_90"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90_90"><span class="label">[90]</span></a> I would recommend Retsch's etchings of Macbeth to the -study of all representatives of the witches: there is great sublimity -and fearfulness in their figures and attitudes. By the by, in looking -over those unique etchings (I mean <i>all</i> those he has executed), the -colossal genius of Shakspeare is brought more fully in its vastness to -our conviction; for the genius of the artist,—which has fallen no whit -behind the first work of one of the first men of this age,—sinks in -utter impotence under the task of illustrating Shakspeare. The wonder, -and the beauty, and the pity of Faust, are as strong and true in the -outlines of Retsch, as in the words of Goethe—the drawings equal the -poem; 'tis the highest praise they can receive: and it is only when we -turn from these perfect works, to contemplate his outlines of -Shakspeare, that we feel, by the force of comparison, how unutterably -beyond all other conceptions are those of Shakspeare. Retsch's etchings, -both of Hamlet and Macbeth, are, compared with his German illustrations, -failures. Hamlet is the better of the two; but he seems to have quailed -under the other in utter inability—Macbeth himself falls far short of -all that he should be made to express; and as to Lady Macbeth, Retsch -seems to have thought he had better not meddle with her.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_91_91" id="Footnote_91_91"></a><a href="#FNanchor_91_91"><span class="label">[91]</span></a> I wonder how long it will be before men begin to consider -the rational education of the mothers of their children a matter of some -little moment. How much longer are we to lead existences burdensome to -ourselves and useless to others, under the influence of every species of -ill training that can be imagined? How much longer are the physical -evils under which our nature labours to be increased by effeminate, -slothful, careless, unwholesome habits? How much longer are our minds, -naturally weakened by the action of a highly sensitive nervous -construction, to be abandoned, or rather devoted, to studies the least -likely to strengthen and ennoble them, and render them independent, in -some measure, of the infirmities of our bodies? How much longer are our -imaginations and feelings to be the only portions of our spiritual -nature on which culture is bestowed? Surely it were generous in those -who are our earthly disposers to do something to raise us from the state -of half-improvement in which we are suffered to linger. If our -capacities are inferior to those of men,—which I believe, as much as I -believe our bodies to be inferior to theirs in strength, swiftness, and -endurance,—let us not be overwhelmed with all the additional shackles -that foolish and vain bringing up can add; let us at least be made as -strong in body and as wise in mind as we can, instead of being devoted -to spiritual, mental, and physical weakness, far beyond that which we -inherit from nature.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_92_92" id="Footnote_92_92"></a><a href="#FNanchor_92_92"><span class="label">[92]</span></a> Was it not Mme. de Sévigné who said, with such truth and -bitter satire, "Mme de —— s'est jetée dans la dévotion, c'est-à-dire, -elle a changé d'amant"?</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_93_93" id="Footnote_93_93"></a><a href="#FNanchor_93_93"><span class="label">[93]</span></a> The cleanliness of the table furniture, and the neatness -of the attendants, is one of the most essential comforts of these boats. -The linen, and knives and forks, etc. at our meals, were remarkably -clean and bright. On more than one occasion, too, being rather late for -the public breakfast, we have been indulged with a small separate table -in the quiet recess at the end of the great eating and sleeping -cabin,—a favour only to be appreciated by people unaccustomed to any -ordinaries, much less steam-boat dinner-tables with sometimes near two -hundred guests. On board all the other boats, the only alternative is to -have what you eat brought to you into the ladies' cabin. To those who -have once breathed the atmosphere of a "ladies' cabin," it will be -difficult to imagine how such an alternative should not be productive of -an amazing saving of the boat's provisions.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_94_94" id="Footnote_94_94"></a><a href="#FNanchor_94_94"><span class="label">[94]</span></a> My astonishment was unfeigned, when, upon an after -inspection, I found this very lofty gateway was constructed of <i>painted -wood</i>. What! a cheat, a sham thing at the threshold of the -grave!—surely, thereabouts pretences should have an end. Sham -magnificence, too, is sad; an iron railing, or a wooden paling, would, -to my mind, have been a thousand times better than this <i>mock granite</i>. -Let us hope that this is merely a temporary entrance,—there is <i>real</i> -granite enough to be had at Quincy; and if the living can't afford it, -why the dead will never miss it,—and any thing would be better than an -imitation gateway.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_95_95" id="Footnote_95_95"></a><a href="#FNanchor_95_95"><span class="label">[95]</span></a> The spirit of man of its own dignity ennobles whatever it -devotes itself to. The most trivial actions may become almost heroical -from the motive which prompts them, and the most absurd ceremonies of -superstition, sincerely practised, may excite pity, but neither contempt -nor ridicule. If such a thing as an enthusiastic shoemaker were to be -met with, there is no doubt but his feeling of his craft would elevate -it into something approximating an art, and his work would bear witness -to his veneration for it. At the time when the stage was in its highest -perfection, its members had <i>all</i> a great love and admiration for their -profession; many of them were men of education and mental -accomplishment, and brought to bear upon their labour all the -intellectual stores which they possessed. They respected their own work, -and it was respectable; they thought acting capable of elevation, of -refinement, of utility, and their faith in it invested it with dignity. -Of this class were all my father's family. <i>One</i> reason why the stage -and every thing belonging to it has fallen to so low an ebb now, is -because actors have ceased to care for their profession -themselves,—they are no longer artists,—acting is no longer an art.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_96_96" id="Footnote_96_96"></a><a href="#FNanchor_96_96"><span class="label">[96]</span></a> Besides the advantage of possessing the very prettiest -collection of actresses I ever saw, the theatre at Boston has decidedly -the best company I have played with <i>any where</i> out of London. Some of -the old leaven alluded to in the last note exists amongst the ladies and -gentlemen of the Tremont theatre: they do not seem to despise their -work, and it is, generally speaking, well done therefore. Our pieces -were all remarkably well got up there; and the green-room is both -respectable and agreeable.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_97_97" id="Footnote_97_97"></a><a href="#FNanchor_97_97"><span class="label">[97]</span></a> To the English traveller, around whose heart the love of -country and the influences of early association may yet cling, New -England appears to me, of all the portions of the United States which I -have visited, most likely to afford gratification; and the -<i>Yankees</i>,—properly so called,—the Americans with whom he will find, -and towards whom he will feel, most sympathy. They do us the honour to -call themselves <i>purely English</i> in their origin; they alone, of the -whole population of the United States, undoubtedly were so; and in the -abundant witness which their whole character, country, and institutions -bear to that fact, I feel an additional reason to be proud of -England,—of Old England, for these are her children,—this race of men, -as a race incomparably superior to the other inhabitants of this -country. In conversing with New Englandmen, in spite of any passing -temporary bitterness, any political difference, or painful reference to -past times of enmity, I have always been struck with the admiring and, -in some measure, tender feeling with which England, as the -mother-country, was named. Nor is it possible to travel through the New -England states, and not perceive, indeed, a spirit (however modified by -different circumstances and institutions) yet most truly English in its -origin. The exterior of the houses,—their extreme neatness and -cleanliness,—the careful cultivation of the land,—the tasteful and -ornamental arrangement of the ground immediately surrounding the -dwellings, that most English of all manifestations,—above all, the -church spires pointing towards heaven, from the bosom of every -village,—recalled most forcibly to my mind my own England, and -presented images of order, of industry, of taste, and religious feeling, -nowhere so exhibited in any other part of the Union. I visited Boston -several times, and mixed in society there, the tone of which appeared to -me far higher than that of any I found elsewhere. A general degree of -cultivation exists among its members, which renders their intercourse -desirable and delightful. Nor is this superior degree of education -confined to Boston: the zeal and the judgment with which it is being -propagated throughout that part of the country is a noble national -characteristic. A small circumstance is a good illustration of the -advance which knowledge has made in these states. Travelling by land -from New Haven to Boston, at one of the very smallest places where we -stopped to change horses, I got out of the carriage to reconnoitre our -surroundings. The town (if town it could be called) did not appear to -contain much more than fifty houses: amongst the most prominent of -these, however, was a bookseller's shop. The first volumes I took up on -the counter were Spurzheim's volume on education, and Dr. Abercrombie's -works on the intellectual and moral faculties, I saw more pictures, more -sculptures, and more books in private houses in Boston than I have seen -any where else. I could name more men of marked talent that I met with -there than any where else. Its charitable and literary institutions are -upon a liberal scale, and enlightened principles. Among the New -Englanders I have seen more honour and reverence of parents, and more -witnesses of a high religions faith, than among any other Americans with -whom I have lived and conversed.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_98_98" id="Footnote_98_98"></a><a href="#FNanchor_98_98"><span class="label">[98]</span></a> There are, I believe, no primroses, no wild thyme, and no -heather, that grow naturally in this country. I do not remember to have -seen either wild honeysuckle or clematis, both of which are so abundant -with us. The laurestinus, rosemary, southernwood, and monthly roses, all -of which are so common in England, growing out of doors all the year -round, are kept in hot-houses during the winter, even as far south as -Philadelphia. The common garden flowers—roses, pinks—are far less -abundant and less fragrant than with us. Sweet peas, and mignonette, are -comparatively scarce; serynga, and laburnum, I have never seen at all: -but so little care is bestowed upon ornamental gardening, that I do not -know whether this dearth of flowers is the fault of the climate, or the -consequence of the utter neglect in which flower-gardens are held here.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_99_99" id="Footnote_99_99"></a><a href="#FNanchor_99_99"><span class="label">[99]</span></a> Lacking the nightingale and the lark, I think they want -the two perfect specimens of natural music.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_100_100" id="Footnote_100_100"></a><a href="#FNanchor_100_100"><span class="label">[100]</span></a> Among the many signs of the total decay of dramatic mind -and spirit in this age, a frequent piece of criticism passed upon modern -plays appears to me a very conclusive one—"Such a play is exceedingly -full of dramatic effect, but there's no poetry in it." "Such a -playwright understands situation and character, but really, reading his -plays, you find no poetry in them." I have heard this bright comment -passed repeatedly upon the best dramatic composition of modern -times,—the Hunchback; a play whose immense popularity every where is -the surest and truest warrant of its excellence,—a play containing the -most dramatic situations, the most pathetic and comic effects, and by -far the finest conception of a female character of any play since the -old golden dramatic age. I do not hesitate to say that this is a most -false piece of criticism, induced alone by a want of perception of what -are the requisites in a dramatic poem, and a total absence of true -dramatic feeling. First, in the ingredients of a fine play, comes the -fiction,—the invention; to this belong those same much-sneered-at stage -effects, and theatrical situations; next comes the skilful and powerful -delineation of individual character; <i>lastly</i> comes the item of a -poetical diction. <i>One</i> alone has united these in their utmost -perfection; for such another the world may look in vain. But I think the -play-goers of Shakspeare's time would have been tolerably satisfied with -a most interesting fiction, and a true and vigorous delineation of -character; and let me ask, is there no poetry besides that of words?—is -there no poetry in the fable of a play—none in the faithful portraying -of a human being's mind and passions? As for all pretty speeches, -lengthy descriptions, abstract disquisitions,—unless things placed in -the mouth of characters to whose identity such mental manifestations -belong,—they are inadmissible in a right good play, and should by all -means be confined to the pages of those anomalous modern growths, plays -for the closet. In all our elder dramatists, Shakspeare alone excepted, -the main quality of a play, the story, is often defective to an excess, -not only in morality, but in probability and consistency; and the same -defects exist in the delineation of character in many of their noblest -plays.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_101_101" id="Footnote_101_101"></a><a href="#FNanchor_101_101"><span class="label">[101]</span></a> Of the mental process which the pupils at this highland -school undergo, I can say nothing, being totally unacquainted with the -system of education adopted there; but a more advantageous residence for -the cultivation of health, strength (for physical education), or the -development of all those pious and poetical tendings of the human soul -and mind which are fostered and ripened by the sublime influence of -natural beauty and grandeur, cannot be imagined. The gentlemen at the -head of this establishment are New Englanders. The observations I made -upon the superior intelligence and cultivation of the natives of that -part of the United States have been borne out constantly by the fact, -that there is hardly any establishment in the States I have visited, in -any way connected with education, or the dissemination of information, -which is not conducted partially or entirely by New Englanders.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_102_102" id="Footnote_102_102"></a><a href="#FNanchor_102_102"><span class="label">[102]</span></a> Troy! and that Troy has a Mount Ida! The names of places -in this country are truly astonishing. Troy, Syracuse, and Rome are -pretty well in this way; but the state of New York alone, I believe, -boasts of a Manlius, a Homer, a Virgil, an Ovid, a Cicero, and a -Socrates, whose second appearance in this world is in all the glories of -flaming red bricks, new boards, and white paint. Did Pythagoras admit of -men becoming towns as well as beasts? I forget.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_103_103" id="Footnote_103_103"></a><a href="#FNanchor_103_103"><span class="label">[103]</span></a> These beautiful little delicate wild flowers seem to love -the dewy neighbourhood of waterfalls: it is only at Trenton, and the -Chaudière in Canada, that I remember to have seen them at all in this -country. Some poor Scotch peasants, about to emigrate to Canada, took -away with them some roots of the "bonny blooming heather," in hopes of -making this beloved adorner of their native mountains the cheerer of -their exile in the wild lands to which they were going. The heather, -however, refused to grow in the Canadian soil, and the poor emigrants -had not the melancholy pleasure of seeing its sweet familiar bloom round -their new dwellings. The person who told me this said that the -circumstance had been related to him by Walter Scott, whose sympathy -with the disappointment of these poor children of the romantic -heatherland betrayed itself even in tears. When I visited the beautiful -falls of the Chaudière, our party was enlivened, and the picturesque -effect of the scene much heightened, by some of the Highland band -belonging to the regiment quartered in Quebec. I could not help -wondering, as I gathered the blue bells, which grew profusely round the -cataract, whether these poor fellows looked upon the emblem of their -distant country with any of the feelings which I lent them; and the -whole brought back to my mind the heather that would not gladden the -exile's eyes in a foreign soil, and the compassion of Scott for his -countrymen's disappointment.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_104_104" id="Footnote_104_104"></a><a href="#FNanchor_104_104"><span class="label">[104]</span></a> I do not know that the sense of danger has ever been so -vivid in my mind as while walking along this narrow edge of eternity. -Nothing around Niagara appeared to me half so full of peril as the path -along the Trenton Falls, although I have hung over the brink of the last -rock that vibrates on the very verge of that great abyss, and explored, -entirely alone, the path under the huge watery curtain that falls from -Table Rock. I do not know whether the mention of the late accidents at -Trenton affected my imagination, and caused me to exaggerate the danger; -but it appeared to me almost miraculous that every body passing along -those narrow, dripping, uneven ledges did not share the fate of the two -unfortunate persons I have mentioned.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_105_105" id="Footnote_105_105"></a><a href="#FNanchor_105_105"><span class="label">[105]</span></a> Thank God! a firebrand, which shall throw all England -into confusion and anarchy, is not, indeed, of easy make. Italy, crushed -under the heel of her northern rulers; or France, blown about with every -breath of opinion, may rush into revolutions for a ballad or an opera. -The misery of the one, and the miserable excitability of the other -nation, render it easy to rouse, in the former, the spirit of -retribution; in the latter, the desire of change. But Englishmen, who -are neither slaves nor weathercocks, are less easily stirred to wild -excesses of political excitement. Let who will steer, the old ship is -too well ballasted to sink. Whoever rules, whatever party may be at the -head of her government, England is sound at heart: there is a broad -foundation of moral good and intelligence in the nation, which will not -be shaken or upturned, let factions erect or pull down what temporary -trophies they please, to their own short-lived and selfish triumphs. The -file of the mechanic may still gnaw angrily at the iron crown of the -aristocracy; interests of classes may still jar, parties wrangle, and -the eternal warfare between those who climb, and those who stand upon -the topmost round of the ladder, may still be waged. And so be it: in -none of these is there fear or danger; but rather a wholesome action of -power against power; a checking, winnowing, purifying, and preserving -influence. Moral evil, vice—and mental evil, ignorance—are the roots -of decay: surely England is far from the day of her downfalling.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_106_106" id="Footnote_106_106"></a><a href="#FNanchor_106_106"><span class="label">[106]</span></a> I have had occasion to observe, in a former note, that -foreigners travelling through this country see only the least desirable -society of the various cities they visit. There is another class of -Americans, whom they rarely, if ever, become acquainted with at all; by -far the most interesting, in my opinion, which the country affords. I -speak of those families thickly scattered through all the states, from -whose original settlers many of them are immediately descended; who -reside upon lands purchased by their grandfathers in the early days of -the <i>British colonies</i>; and who, living remote from the Atlantic cities, -and the more travelled routes between them, are free from all the -peculiarities which displease a European in the societies of the towns, -and possess traits of originality in their manners, minds, and mode of -life, infinitely refreshing to the observer, wearied of the eternal -sameness which pervades the human congregations of the Old World. -</p><p> -In mixing with the commercial fashionables and exclusives of the -American cities, the European is at once amused and annoyed with the -assumption of a social tone and spirit at variance with the whole <i>make</i> -of the country. He is told that he is in the best society of the place, -and with perfect justice condemns this best society as, probably, the -worst he ever saw: a society assuming the airs of separate rank where no -rank at all exists, attempting to copy the luxury and splendour of the -residents of European capitals, without possessing one tithe of their -wealth to excuse the extravagance, or enable them to succeed in the -endeavour, and presenting the most incongruous and displeasing mixture -possible of pretension, ignorance, affectation, and vulgarity. I have -before said, that even in the cities there are circles of a very -different order; but yet freer from all these drawbacks is the society -formed by the class of people of whom I have spoken above, and whom I -should designate as the gentry of this country; using that term in the -best sense in which it was once used in England. -</p><p> -Among this large but widely-scattered portion of the community, should -the European traveller's good fortune lead him, he will find hospitality -without ostentation, purity of morals independent of the dread of -opinion, intellectual cultivation unmixed with the desire of display, -great simplicity of life and ignorance of the world, originality of mind -naturally arising from independence and solitude, and <i>the best</i>, -because the most natural, manners. Of such, I know, from the lower -shores of the Chesapeake, to the half savage territory around -Michilimakinack.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_107_107" id="Footnote_107_107"></a><a href="#FNanchor_107_107"><span class="label">[107]</span></a> This spot is famous as the scene of the last exploit of a -singular individual, known by the name of Sam Patch. An Irishman by -birth, I believe, he came over to this country to earn his bread, and -hit upon a very ingenious method of doing so, <i>i. e.</i> jumping for large -wagers down cataracts; which daring feat he performed successfully more -than once. But, like the Sicilian diver of old, poor Sam Patch took one -plunge too many; and, after leaping with impunity from the rocks -immediately below the Falls of Niagara, he found his death in the -Genesee—attempting the leap, it is said, while in a state of -intoxication.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_108_108" id="Footnote_108_108"></a><a href="#FNanchor_108_108"><span class="label">[108]</span></a> Although nobody, I believe, ever travelled a hundred -miles by land in this country without being overturned, the drivers -deserve infinite credit for the <i>rare occurrence</i> of accidents. How they -can carry a coach at all over some of their roads is miraculous; and -high praise is due to them both for care and skill, that any body, in -any part of this country, ever arrives at the end of a land journey at -all. I do not ever remember to have seen six-in-hand driving except in -New England, where it is common, and where the stage-drivers are great -adepts in their mystery.</p></div> -</div> - -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<hr /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<div class = "mynote"><p class="center">Transcriber's Note:<br /><br /> -Obvious typographic errors have been corrected.<br /></p></div> - -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A RESIDENCE IN AMERICA***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 51932-h.htm or 51932-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/1/9/3/51932">http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/9/3/51932</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed.</p> - -<p>Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition.</p> - -<p>Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org</p> - -<p>This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.</p> - -</body> -</html> - diff --git a/old/51932-h/images/cover.jpg b/old/51932-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a9c0690..0000000 --- a/old/51932-h/images/cover.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/51932-h/images/titlepage.jpg b/old/51932-h/images/titlepage.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index bcd3270..0000000 --- a/old/51932-h/images/titlepage.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/51932.txt b/old/51932.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 1271de5..0000000 --- a/old/51932.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13803 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Journal of a Residence in America, by Fanny -Kemble - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: Journal of a Residence in America - - -Author: Fanny Kemble - - - -Release Date: May 2, 2016 [eBook #51932] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A RESIDENCE IN -AMERICA*** - - -E-text prepared by Suzanne Shell, Martin Pettit, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images -generously made available by Internet Archive/American Libraries -(https://archive.org/details/americana) - - - -Note: Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive/American Libraries. See - https://archive.org/details/journalaresiden01kembgoog - - - - - -JOURNAL OF A RESIDENCE IN AMERICA. - -by - -FRANCES ANNE BUTLER - -(MISS FANNY KEMBLE). - -In One Volume. - - - - - - - -Paris, -Published by A. and W. Galignani and Co, -Rue Vivienne, No 18. - -1835. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -A preface appears to me necessary to this book, in order that the -expectation with which the English reader might open it should not be -disappointed. - -Some curiosity has of late been excited in England with regard to -America: its political existence is a momentous experiment, upon which -many eyes are fixed, in anxious watching of the result; and such -accounts as have been published of the customs and manners of its -societies, and the natural wonders and beauties of its scenery, have -been received and read with considerable interest in Europe. This being -the case, I should be loth to present these volumes to the English -public without disclaiming both the intention and the capability of -adding the slightest detail of any interest to those which other -travellers have already furnished upon these subjects. - -This book is, what it professes to be, my personal journal, and not a -history or a description of men and manners in the United States. - -Engaged in an arduous profession, and travelling from city to city in -its exercise, my leisure and my opportunities would have been alike -inadequate to such a task. The portion of America which I have visited -has been a very small one, and, I imagine, by no means that from which -the most interesting details are to be drawn. I have been neither to the -south nor to the west; consequently have had no opportunity of seeing -two large portions of the population of this country,--the enterprising -explorers of the late wildernesses on the shores of the -Mississippi,--and the black race of the slave slates,--both classes of -men presenting peculiarities of infinite interest to the traveller: the -one, a source of energy and growing strength, the other, of disease and -decay, in this vast political body. - -My sphere of observation has been confined to the Atlantic cities, whose -astonishing mercantile prosperity, and motley mongrel societies, though -curious under many aspects, are interesting but under few. - -What I registered were my immediate impressions of what I saw and heard; -of course, liable to all the errors attendant upon first perceptions, -and want of time and occasion for maturer investigation. The notes I -have added while preparing the text for the press; and such opinions and -details as they contain are the result of a longer residence in this -country, and a somewhat better acquaintance with the people of it. - -Written, as my journal was, day by day, and often after the fatigues of -a laborious evening's duty at the theatre, it has infinite sins of -carelessness to answer for; and but that it would have taken less time -and trouble to re-write the whole book, or rather write a better, I -would have endeavoured to correct them,--though, indeed, I was something -of Alfieri's mind about it:--"Quanto poi allo stile, io penso di lasciar -fare alla penna, e di pochissimo lasciarlo scostarsi da quella triviale -e spontanea naturalezza, con cui ho scritto quest' opera, dettata dal -cuore e non dall' ingegno; e che sola puo convenire a cosi umile tema." - -However, my purpose is not to write an apology for my book, or its -defects, but simply to warn the English reader, before he is betrayed -into its perusal, that it is a purely egotistical record, and by no -means a history of America. - - - - -JOURNAL. - - -_Wednesday, August 1st, 1832._ - -Another break in my journal, and here I am on board the Pacific, bound -for America, having left home and all the world behind.--Well! - - * * * * * - -We reached the quay just as the ship was being pulled, and pushed, and -levered to the entrance of the dock;--the quays were lined with people; -among them were several known faces,--Mr. ----, Mr. ----. M---- came on -board to take my letters, and bid me good-by. - - * * * * * - -I had a bunch of carnations in my hand, which I had snatched from our -drawing-room chimney;--English flowers! dear English flowers! they will -be withered long before I again see land; but I will keep them until I -once more stand upon the soil on which they grew. - - * * * * * - -The sky had become clouded, and the wind blew cold. - - * * * * * - -Came down and put our narrow room to rights. - - * * * * * - -Worked at my Bible-cover till dinner-time. We dined at half-past -three.--The table was excellent--cold dinner, because it was the first -day--but every thing was good; and champagne, and dessert, and every -luxury imaginable, rendered it as little like a ship-dinner as might be. -The man who sat by me was an American; very good-natured, and talkative. -Our passengers are all men, with the exception of three; a nice -pretty-looking girl, who is going out with her brother; a fat old -woman, and a fat young one. I cried almost the whole of dinner-time. - - * * * * * - -After dinner the ladies adjourned to their own cabin, and the gentlemen -began to debate about regulating the meal hours. They adopted the -debating society tone, called my poor dear father to the chair, and -presently I heard, oh horror! (what I had not thought to hear again for -six weeks) the clapping of hands. They sent him in to consult us about -the dinner-hour: and we having decided four o'clock, the debate -continued with considerable merriment. Presently my father, Colonel -----, and Mr. ----, came into our cabin:--the former read us Washington -Irving's speech at the New-York dinner. Some of it is very beautiful; -all of it is in good feeling--it made me cry. Oh my home, my land, -England, glorious little England! from which this bragging big baby was -born, how my heart yearns towards your earth! I sat working till the -gentlemen left us, and then wrote journal. - - * * * * * - -I am weary and sad, and will try to go and sleep.--It rains: I cannot -see the moon. - - -_Thursday, 2d._ - -It rained all night, and in the morning the wind had died away, and we -lay rocking, becalmed on the waveless waters. At eight o'clock they -brought me some breakfast, after which I got up; while dressing, I could -not help being amused at hearing the cocks crowing, and the cow lowing, -and geese and ducks gabbling, as though we were in the midst of a -farm-yard. At half-past ten, having finished my toilet, I emerged; and -Miss ---- and I walked upon deck. The sea lay still, and grey, without -ridge or sparkle, a sheet of lead; the sky was of the same dull colour. -The deck was wet and comfortless. We were but just off Holyhead: two or -three ships stood against the horizon, still as ourselves. The whole was -melancholy:--and, sadder than all, sat a poor woman, dressed in -mourning, in a corner of the deck; she was a steerage passenger, and I -never saw so much sorrow in any face. Poor thing! poor thing! was her -heart aching for home, and kindred left behind her? It made mine ach to -look at her. We walked up and down for an hour. I like my companion -well; she is a nice young quiet thing, just come from a country home. -Came down, and began getting out books for my German lesson, but, -turning rather awful, left my learning on the floor, and betook myself -to my berth. Slept nearly till dinner-time. At dinner I took my place at -table, but presently the misery returned; and getting up, while I had -sufficient steadiness left to walk becomingly down the room, I came to -my cabin; my dinner followed me thither, and, lying on my back, I very -comfortably discussed it. Got up, devoured some raspberry-tart and -grapes, and, being altogether delightful again, sat working and singing -till tea-time: after which, wrote journal, and now to bed. How strange -it seems to hear these Americans speaking in English of _the -English_!--"Oh, hame, hame, hame wad I be,"--but it is not time to sing -that yet. - - -_Friday, 3d._ - -Breakfasted at eight; got up, and dressed, and came upon deck. The day -was lovely, the sea one deep dark sapphire, the sky bright and -cloudless, the wind mild and soft, too mild to fill our sails, which -hung lazily against the masts,--but enough to refresh the warm summer's -sky, and temper the bright sun of August that shone above us. Walked -upon deck with Miss ---- and Captain Whaite: the latter is a very -intelligent good-natured person; rough and bluff, and only -seven-and-twenty; which makes his having the command of a ship rather an -awful consideration. At half-past eleven got my German, and worked at it -till half-past one, then got my work; and presently we were summoned on -deck by sound of bell, and oyes! oyes! oyes!--and a society was -established for the good demeanour and sociability of the passengers. My -father was in the chair. Mr. ---- was voted secretary, Dr. ---- -attorney-general; a badge was established, rules and regulations laid -down, a code framed, and much laughing and merriment thence ensued. -Worked till dinner-time. After dinner, went on deck, took a brisk walk -for half an hour with Captain Whaite. Established myself to work, and -presently we were all summoned to attend a mock trial of Colonel ----, -which made us all laugh most exceedingly. We adopted titles--I chose my -family appellation of Puddledock: many of the names were very absurd, -and as a penalty ensued upon not giving every body their proper -designation, much amusement arose from it. When the trial was over, we -played at dumb crambo, and earth, air, and water, with infinite zeal, -till tea-time. After tea, we were summoned on deck to see the ship make -a tack. The wind was against us, the sea inky black, the pale clear moon -stood high against the sail--presently, with a whooping and yaw-awling -that mocks description, the fair ship was turned away from the wind, the -sails veered round, and she set in another course. We remained on deck, -the gentlemen gathered round us, and singing began:--it went round and -round by turns; some of our voices were very sweet, and, upon the whole, -'twas time pleasantly spent. Came to bed at ten. - - -_Wednesday, 15th._ - -Here's a lapse! thanks to head winds, a rolling sea, and their result, -sickness, sadness, sorrow. I've been better for the last two days, thank -God! and take to my book again. Rose at eight, dawdled about, and then -came up stairs. Breakfasted, sat working at my Bible-cover till -lunch-time. Somebody asked me if I had any of Mrs. Siddons's hair; I -sent for my dressing-box, and forthwith it was overhauled, to use the -appropriate phrase, by half the company, whom a rainy day had reduced to -a state of worse than usual want of occupation. The rain continued all -day; we ladies dined in the round-house, the room down stairs being too -close. The Captain and Colonel ---- joined us afterwards, and began -drinking champagne, and induced us to do the same. As evening came on, -the whole of the passengers collected in the round-house. Mr. ----, Mr. -D----, and I wrote a rhapsody; afterwards they fell to singing; while -they did so, the sky darkened tremendously, the rain came pelting down, -the black sea swelled, and rose, and broke upon the ship's sides into -boiling furrows of foam, that fled like ghosts along the inky face of -the ocean. The ship scudded before the blast, and we managed to keep -ourselves warm by singing. After tea, for the first time since I have -been on board, got hold of a pack of cards, (oh me, that it ever should -come to this!) and initiated Miss ---- in the mysteries of the -intellectual game. Mercy! how my home rose before me as I did so. Played -till I was tired; dozed, and finally came to bed. Bed! quotha! 'tis a -frightful misapplication of terms. Oh for a bed! a real bed; any manner -of bed but a bed on shipboard! And yet I have seen some fair things: I -have seen a universe of air and water; I have seen the glorious sun come -and look down upon this rolling sapphire; I have seen the moon throw -her silver columns along the watery waste; I have seen one lonely ship -in her silent walk across this wilderness, meet another, greet her, and -pass her, like a dream, on the wide deep; I have seen the dark world of -waters at midnight open its mysterious mantle beneath our ship's prow, -and show below another dazzling world of light. I have seen, what I -would not but have seen, though I have left my very soul behind me. -England, dear, dear England! oh, for a handful of your earth! - - -_Thursday, 16th._ - -Another day, another day! the old fellow posts as well over water as -over land! Rose at about half-past eight, went up to the round-house; -breakfasted, and worked at my Bible-cover. As soon as our tent was -spread, went out on deck: took a longish walk with Mr. ----. I like him -very much; his face would enchant Lavater, and his skull ecstacise the -Combes. Lay down under our rough pavilion, and heard the gentlemen -descant very learnedly upon freemasonry. A book called "Adventures of an -Irish Gentleman," suggested the conversation; in which are detailed some -of the initiatory ceremonies, which appear to me so incredibly foolish, -that I can scarce believe them, even making mankind a handsome allowance -for absurdity. I soon perceived that the discussion was likely to prove -a serious one, for in America, it seems, 'tis made a political question; -and our Boston friend, and the Jacksonite, fell to rather sharply about -it. The temperance of the former, however, by retreating from the field, -spared us further argumentation. One thing I marvel at:--are the -institutions of men stronger to bind men, than those of God; and does -masonry effect good, which Christianity does not?--a silly query, by the -way; for doubtless men act the good, but forbear to act the evil, before -each other's eyes; which they think nothing of doing, or leaving undone, -under those of God. - -Gossiped till lunch-time; afterwards took up Childe Harold,--commend me -to that! I thought of dear H----. She admires Byron more than I do; and -yet how wildly I did, how deeply I do still, worship his might, majesty, -and loveliness. We dined up stairs, and after dinner, I and Mr. ---- -look a long walk on deck; talking flimsy morality, and philosophy, the -text of which were generalities, but all the points individualities: I -was amused in my heart at him and myself. He'd a good miss of me at -----: Heaven knows, I was odious enough! and therein his informer was -right. The day was bright, and bitter cold,--the sea blue, and -transparent as that loveliest line in Dante, - - - "Dolce color di oriental zaffiro," - - -with a lining of pearly foam, and glittering spray, that enchanted me. -Came and sat down again:--wrote doggerel for the captain's album, about -the captain's ship, which, when once I am out of her, I'll swear I love -infinitely. Read aloud to them some of Byron's short poems, and that -glorious hymn to the sea, in Childe Harold:--mercy, how fine it is! Lay -under our canvass shed till nine o'clock:--the stars were brilliant in -the intense blue sky, the wind had dropped, the ship lay still--we sang -a song or two, supped, and came in; where, after inditing two -rhapsodies, we came to bed. - - -_Friday, 17th._ - -On my back all day: mercy, how it ached too! the ship reeled about like -a drunken thing. I lay down, and began reading Byron's life. As far as I -have gone (which is to his leaving England) there is nothing in it but -what I expected to find,--the fairly-sown seeds of the after-harvest he -bore. Had he been less of an egotist, would he have been so great a -poet?--I question it. His fury and wrath at the severe injustice of his -critics reminds me, by the by, of those few lines in the Athenaeum, which -I read the other day, about poetical shoemakers, dairy-maids, ploughmen, -and myself. After all, what matters it?--"If this thing be of God," the -devil can't overthrow it; if it be not, why the printer's devil may. -What can it signify what is said? If truth be truth to the end of -reckoning, why, that share of her, if any, which I possess, must endure -when recorded as long as truth endures. I almost wonder Byron was moved -by criticism: I should have thought him at once too highly armed, and -too self-wrapped, to care for it;--however, if a wasp's sting have such -virtue in it, 'tis as well it should have been felt as keenly as it -was.--Ate nothing but figs and raisins; in the evening some of our -gentlemen came into our cabin, and sat with us; I, in very desperation -and sea-sickness, began embroidering one of my old nightcaps, wherein I -persevered till sleep overtook me. - - -_Saturday, 18th._ - -Rose at about half-past eight, dawdled about as usual, breakfasted in -the round-house--by the by, before I got out of bed, read a few more -pages of Byron's life. I don't exactly understand the species of -sentimental _galimatias_ Moore talks about Byron's writing with the same -penfull of ink, "Adieu, adieu, my native land!" and "Hurra! Hodgson, we -are going." It proves nothing except what I firmly believe, that we must -not look for the real feelings of writers in their works--or rather, -that what they give us, and what we take for heart feeling, is head -weaving--a species of emotion engendered somewhere betwixt the bosom and -the brain, and bearing the same proportion of resemblance to reality -that a picture does; that is--like feeling, but not feeling--like -sadness, but not sadness--like what it appears, but not indeed that very -thing: and the greater a man's power of thus producing _sham realities_, -the greater his main qualification for being a poet. After breakfast, -sat, like Lady Alice in the old song, embroidering my midnight coif. Got -Colonel ---- to read Quentin Durward to us as we sat working under our -canvass pavilion. - - * * * * * - -Our company consists chiefly of traders in cloth and hardware, clerks, -and counting-house men--a species with but few peculiarities of interest -to me, who cannot talk pounds, shillings, and pence, as glibly as less -substantial trash. Most of them have crossed this trifling ditch half a -dozen times in their various avocations. But though they belong to the -same sort generally, they differ enough individually for the amusement -of observation. That poor widower, whose remarks on the starry inside of -the sea attracted my attention the other evening, put into my hands -to-day a couple of pretty little books enough; a sort of hotch-potch, -or, to speak more sweetly, pot-pourri praise of women--passages selected -from various authors who have done us the honour to remember us in their -good commendations. There were one or two most eloquent and exquisite -passages from Jeremy Taylor--one on love that enchanted me. I should -like to copy it. What a contrast to that exquisite thing of Shelley's, -"What is Love?" and yet they are both beautiful, powerful, and true. I -could have helped them to sundry more passages on this subject, -particularly from my oracle. Mr. ---- read to us after lunch, and we sat -very happily under our _yawning_ till the rain drove us in. No wind, the -sea one rippleless sheet of lead, and the sky just such another. Our -main-top gallant-mast had been split in one of our late blows, and I -went out in the rain to see them restore the spar. Towards evening the -wind faired and freshened, in consequence of which our gentlemen's -spirits rose; and presently, in spite of the rain, they were dancing, -singing, and romping like mad things on the quarter-deck. It was -Saturday--holiday on board ship--the men were all dismissed to their -grog. Mr. ---- and I sang through a whole volume of Moore's melodies; -and at ten o'clock (for the first time since our second day on board) we -of the petticoats adjourned to the gentlemen's cabin to drink -"sweethearts and wives," according to the approved sailors' practice. It -made me sad to hear them, as they lifted their glasses to their lips, -pass round the toast, "Sweethearts and wives!" I drank in my -heart--"Home and dear H----." One thing amused me a good deal:--the -Captain proposed as a toast, "The Ladies--God bless them," which -accordingly was being duly drunk, when I heard, close to my elbow, a -devout, half audible--"and the Lord deliver us!" This, from a man with a -face like one of Retsch's most grotesque etchings, and an expression -half humorous, half terrified, sent me into fits of laughter. They sang -a song or two, and at twelve we left them to their meditations, which -presently reached our ears in the sound, not shape, of "Health to -Bacchus," in full chorus, to which tune I said my prayers. - - -_Sunday, 19th._ - -Did not rise till late--dressed and came on deck. The morning was -brilliant; the sea, bold, bright, dashing its snowy crests against our -ship's sides, and flinging up a cloud of glittering spray round the -prow. I breakfasted--and then amused myself with finding the lessons, -collects, and psalms for the whole ship's company. After lunch, they -spread our tent; a chair was placed for my father, and, the little bell -being rung, we collected in our rude church. It affected me much, this -praying on the lonely sea, in the words that at the same hour were being -uttered by millions of kindred tongues in our dear home. There was -something, too, impressive and touching in this momentary union of -strangers, met but for a passing day, to part, perhaps, never to behold -each other's faces again, in the holiest of all unions, that of -Christian worship. Here I felt how close, how strong that wondrous tie -of common faith that thus gathered our company, unknown and unconnected -by any one worldly interest or bond, to utter the same words of praise -and supplication, to think perhaps the same thoughts of humble and -trustful dependence on God's great goodness in this our pilgrimage to -foreign lands, to yearn perhaps with the same affection and earnest -imploring of blessings towards our native soil and its beloved ones left -behind.--Oh, how I felt all this, as we spoke aloud that touching -invocation, which is always one of my most earnest prayers, "Almighty -God, who hast promised when two or three are gathered together in thy -name," etc. * * * The bright cloudless sky and glorious sea seemed to -respond, in their silent magnificence, to our _Te Deum_.--I felt more of -the excitement of prayer than I have known for many a day, and 'twas -good--oh! very, very good! - - * * * * * - -'Tis good to behold this new universe, this mighty sea which he hath -made, this glorious cloudless sky, where hang, like dew drops, his -scattered worlds of light--to see all this, and say,-- - - - "These are thy glorious works, parent of good!" - - -After prayers, wrote journal. Some sea-weed floated by the ship to-day, -borne from the gulf stream; I longed to have it, for it told of land: -gulls too came wheeling about, and the little petterels like -sea-swallows skimmed round and round, now resting on the still bosom of -the sunny sea, now flickering away in rapid circles like black -butterflies. They got a gun, to my horror, and wasted a deal of time in -trying to shoot these feathered mariners; but they did not even succeed -in scaring them. We went and sat on the forecastle to see the sun set: -he did not go down cloudless, but dusky ridges of vapour stretched into -ruddy streaks along the horizon, as his disk dipped into the burnished -sea. The foam round the prow, as the ship made way with all sail set -before a fair wind, was the most lovely thing I ever saw. Purity, -strength, glee, and wondrous beauty were in those showers of snowy spray -that sprang up above the black' ship's sides, and fell like a cataract -of rubies under the red sunlight. We sat there till evening came down: -the sea, from brilliant azure, grew black as unknown things, the wind -freshened, and we left our cold stand to walk, or rather run, up and -down the deck to warm ourselves. This we continued till, one by one, the -stars had lit their lamps in heaven: their wondrous brilliancy, together -with the Aurora Borealis, which rushed like sheeted ghosts along the -sky, and the stream of fire that shone round the ship's way, made heaven -and sea appear like one vast world of flame, as though the thin blue -veil of air and the dark curtain of the waters were but drawn across a -universe of light. Mercy, how strange it was! We stood at the stern, -watching the milky wake the ship left as she stole through the eddying -waters. Came back to our gipsy encampment, where, by the light of a -lantern, we supped and sang sundry scraps of old songs. At ten came to -bed. - - * * * * * - -Took an observation of the sun's altitude at noon, and saw them hoist a -main-top-royal sail, which looked very pretty as it was unreefed against -the clear sky. - - -_Monday, 20th._ - -Calm--utter calm--a roasting August sun, a waveless sea, the sails -flapping idly against the mast, and our black cradle rocking to and fro -without progressing a step. They lowered the boat, and went out -rowing--I wanted to go, but they would not let me! A brig was standing -some four miles off us, which, by the by, I was the first to see, except -our mate, in my morning watch, which began at five o'clock, when I saw -the moon set and the sun rise, and feel more than ever convinced that -absolute reality is away from the purpose of works of art. The sky this -morning was as like the sea shore as ever sand and shingle were, the -clouds lying along the horizon in pale dusky yellow layers, and higher -up, floating in light brown ribbed masses, like the sands which grow -wrinkled under the eternal smiling of the sea. Against the dim horizon, -which blended with the violet-coloured sky, the mate then showed me, -through the glass, the brig standing on the sea's edge, for all the -world like one of the tiny birds who were wheeling and chirping round -our ship's stern. I have done more in the shape of work to-day than any -since the two first I spent on board; translated a German fable without -much trouble, read a canto in Dante, ending with a valuation of fame. "O -spirito gentil!" how lived fair wisdom in your soul--how shines she in -your lays!--Wrote journal, walked about, worked at my cap, in the -evening danced merrily enough, quadrilles, country dances, La -Boulangere, and the monaco; fairly danced myself tired. Came to bed. But -oh! not to sleep--mercy, what a night! The wind blowing like mad, the -sea rolling, the ship pitching, bouncing, shuddering, and reeling, like -a thing possessed. I lay awake, listening to her creaking and groaning, -till two o'clock, when, sick of my sleepless berth, I got up and was -going up stairs, to see, at least, how near drowning we were, when -D----, who was lying awake too, implored me to lie down again. I did so -for the hundred and eleventh time, complaining bitterly that I should be -stuffed down in a loathsome berth, cabined, cribbed, confined, while the -sea was boiling below, and the wind bellowing above us. Lay till -daylight, the gale increasing furiously; boxes, chairs, beds, and their -contents, wooden valuables, and human invaluables, rolling about and -clinging to one another in glorious confusion. At about eight o'clock, a -tremendous sea took the ship in the waist, and, rushing over the deck, -banged against our sky-light, and bounced into our cabin. Three women -were immediately apparent from their respective cribs, and poor H---- -appeared in all her lengthy full-length, and came and took refuge with -me. As I held her in my arms, and put my cloak round her, she shook from -head to foot, poor child!--I was not the least frightened, but rather -excited by this invasion of Dan Neptune's; but I wish to goodness I had -been on deck.--Oh, how I wish I had seen that spoonful of salt water -flung from the sea's boiling bowl! I heard afterwards, that it had -nearly washed away poor Mr. ----, besides handsomely ducking and -frightening our military man. Lay all day on my back, most wretched, the -ship heaving like any earthquake; in fact, there is something -irresistibly funny in the way in which people seem dispossessed of their -power of volition by this motion, rushing hither and thither in all -directions but the one they purpose going, and making as many angles, -fetches, and sidelong deviations from the point they aim at, as if the -devil had tied a string to their legs and jerked it every now and then -in spite--by the by, not a bad illustration of our mental and moral -struggles towards their legitimate aims. Another horrible night! oh -horror! - - -_Wednesday, 22d._ - -A fair wind--a fine day--though very very cold and damp. It seems, in -our squall last night, we had also a small piece of mutiny. During the -mate's watch, and while the storm was at the worst, the man who was -steering left the helm, and refused to obey orders; whereupon Mr. Curtis -took up a hatchet, and assured him he would knock his brains out,--which -the captain said, had it been his watch, he should have done on the -spot, and without further warning. We are upon the Newfoundland banks, -though not yet on soundings. Stitched my gown--worked at my -nightcap--walked about:--Mr. ---- read Quentin Durward to us while we -worked. The extreme cold made us take refuge in our cabin, where I sat -working and singing till dinner-time. Dined at table again; afterwards -came back to our cabin--began writing journal, and was interrupted by -hearing a bustle in the dinner-room. The gentlemen were all standing up, -and presently I heard Walter Scott's name passed round:--it made me lay -down my pen. Oh! how pleasant it sounded--that unanimous blessing of -strangers upon a great and good man, thus far from him--from all but our -own small community. The genuine and spontaneous tribute to moral worth -and mental power! Poor, poor Sir Walter! And yet no prayer that can be -breathed to bless, no grateful and soul felt invocation, can snatch him -from the common doom of earth-born flesh, or buy away one hour's anguish -and prostration of body and spirit, before the triumphant infirmities of -our miserable nature. I thought of Dante's lines, that I read but a day -ago; and yet--and yet--fame is something. His fame is good--is great--is -glorious. To be enshrined in the hearts of all virtuous and wise men, as -the friend of virtue and the teacher of wisdom; to have freely given -pleasure, happiness, forgetfulness, to millions of his fellow-creatures; -to have made excellence lovely, and enjoyment pure and salutary; to have -taught none but lessons of honour and integrity; to have surrounded his -memory, and filled the minds of all men with images fair, and bright, -and wonderful, yet left around his name no halo, and in the hearts of -others no slightest cloud to blot these enchanting creations; to have -done nothing but good with God's good gifts--is not this fame worth -something? 'Tis worth man's love, and God's approval--'tis worth -toiling for, living for, and dying for. He has earned it fairly--he is a -great and good man--peace be with him in his hour of mortal sorrow, and -eternal peace hereafter in the heaven to which he surely goes. They then -drank Washington Irving,--a gentle spirit, too. After working for some -time more, came on deck, where we danced with infinite glee, disturbed -only by the surpassing uproar of Colonel ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The only of our crew whom I cotton to fairly, are the ----, and that -good-natured lad, Mr. ----: though the former rather distress me by -their abundant admiration, and the latter by his inveterate Yorkshire, -and never opening his mouth when he sings, which, as he has a very sweet -voice, is a cruel piece of selfishness, keeping half his tones, and all -his words, for his own private satisfaction. - - -_Thursday, 23d._ - -On soundings, and nearly off them again--a fine day;--worked at my -nightcap--another, by the by, having finished one--exemplary!--Walked -about, ate, drank, wrote journal--read some of it to the ----, who -seemed much gratified by my doing so. I go on with Byron's life. He is -loo much of an egotist. I do not like him a bit the better for knowing -his prose mind;--far from thinking it redeems any of the errors of his -poetical man, I think I never read any thing professing to be a person's -undisguised feelings and opinions, with so much heartlessness--so little -goodness in it. His views of society are like his views of human nature; -or rather, by the by, reverse the sentence, to prove the fallacy in -judgment; and though his satire is keen and true, yet he is nothing but -satirical--never, never serious and earnest, even with himself. Oh! I -have a horror of that sneering devil of Goethe's; and he seems to me to -have possessed Byron utterly. A curious thought, or rather a fantastical -shadow of a thought, occurred to me to-day in reading a chapter in the -Corinthians about the resurrection. I mean to be buried with H----'s -ring on my finger; will it be there when I rise again?--What a question -for the discussers of the needle's point controversy! My father read to -us, this afternoon, part of one of Webster's speeches. It was very -eloquent, but yet it did not fulfil my idea of perfect oratory--inasmuch -as I thought it too pictorial:--there was too much scenery and -decoration about it, to use the cant of my own trade;--there was too -much effect, theatrical effect in it, from which Heaven defend me, for I -do loathe it _in_ its place, and fifty times worse out of it. Perhaps -Webster's speaking is a good sample, in its own line, of the leaven -wherewith these times are leavened. I mean only in its defects--for its -merits are sterling, and therefore of all time. - -But this oil and canvass style of thinking, writing, and speaking, is -bad. I wish our age were more sculptural in its genius--though I have -not the power in any thing to conform thereto, I have the grace to -perceive its higher excellence: yet Milton was a sculptor, Shakspeare a -painter. How do we get through that?--My reason for objecting to -Webster's style--though the tears were in my eyes several times while my -father read--is precisely the same as my reason for not altogether -liking my father's reading--'tis slightly theatrical--something too much -of passion, something too much of effect--but perhaps I am mistaken; for -I do so abhor the slightest approach to the lamps and orange peel, that -I had almost rather hear a "brazen candlestick turned on a wheel," than -all the music of due emphasis and inflection, if allied to a theatrical -manner.--Dined at table again. They abound in toasts, and, among others, -gave "The friends we have left, and those we are going to!" My heart -sank. I am going to no friend; and the "stranger," with which the -Americans salute wayfarers through their land, is the only title I can -claim amongst them. After dinner, walked about--danced--saw the sun sink -in a bed of gorgeous stormy clouds;--worked and walked till bed-time.--I -was considerably amused, and my English blood a little roused at a very -good-natured and well-meant caution of Mr. ----, to avoid making an -enemy of Colonel ----. He is, they say, a party man, having influence -which he may exert to our detriment. - - -_Friday, 24th._ - -Rose late after a fair night's sleep--came up to the round-house. After -breakfast, worked and walked for an immense time. Read a canto in Dante: -just as I had finished it, "A sail! a sail!" was cried from all -quarters. Remembering my promise to dear H----, I got together my -writing-materials, and scrawled her a few incoherent lines full of my -very heart. The vessel bore rapidly down upon us, but as there was no -prospect of either her or our lying-to, Mr. ---- tied my missive, -together with one Mr. ---- had just scribbled, to a lump of lead, and -presently we all rushed on deck to see the ship pass us. She was an -English packet, from Valparaiso, bound to London; her foremast had been -carried away, but she was going gallantly before the wind. As she passed -us, Mr. ---- got up into the boat, to have a better chance of throwing. -I saw him fling powerfully,--the little packet whizzed through the air, -but the distance was impossible, and the dark waters received it within -twenty feet of the ship, which sailed rapidly on, and had soon left us -far behind. I believe I screamed, as the black sea closed over my poor -letter. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came down to my cabin and cried like a wretch--came up again, and found -them all at lunch. Went and lay on the bowsprit, watching the fair ship -courtesying through the bright sea with all her sail set, a gallant and -graceful sight. Came in--wrote journal--translated a German fable. -Worked at my cap, while my father went on with Webster's speech. I am -still of the same mind about it, though some of the passages he read -to-day were finer than any I had heard before. He gets over a shallow -descent with admirable plausibility--and yet I think I would rather be -descended from a half heathen Saxon giant, than from William Penn -himself. We dined at table again; D---- could not: she was ill. After -dinner, sat working for some time;--I had a horrid sick headach,--walked -on deck. The wind and sea were both rising; we stood by the side of the -ship, and watched the inky waters swelling themselves, and rolling -sullenly towards us, till they broke in silver clouds against the ship, -and sprang above her sides, covering us with spray. The sky had grown -mirk as midnight, and the wind that came rushing over the sea was hot -from the south. We staid out till it grew dark. At ten, the crazy old -ship, in one of her headlong bounces, flung my whole supper in my lap; -the wind and water were riotous; the ship plunged and shuddered. After -screwing my courage to a game of speculation, I was obliged to leave it, -and my companions. Came down and went to bed.--Oh horror! loathsome -life!-- - - -_Saturday and Sunday._ - -Towards evening got up and came on deck:--tremendous head wind, going -off our course; pray Heaven we don't make an impromptu landing on Sable -Island! Sat on the ship's side, watching the huge ocean gathering itself -up into pitchy mountains, and rolling its vast ridges, one after -another, against the good ship, who dipped, and dipped, and dived down -into the black chasm, and then sprang up again, and rode over the -swelling surges like an empress. The sky was a mass of stormy black, -here and there edged with a copper-looking cloud, and breaking in one or -two directions into pale silvery strata, that had an unhealthy lightning -look: a heavy black squall lay ahead of us, like a dusky curtain, whence -we saw the rain, fringe-like, pouring down against the horizon. The wind -blew furiously. I got cradled among the ropes, so as not to be pitched -off when the ship lurched, and enjoyed it all amazingly. It was sad and -solemn, and, but for the excitement of the savage-looking waves, that -every now and then lifted their overwhelming sides against us, it would -have made me melancholy: but it stirred my spirits to ride over these -huge sea-horses, that came bounding and bellowing round us. Remained -till I was chilled with the bitter wind, and wet through with -spray;--walked up and down the deck for some time,--had scarce set foot -within the round-house, when a sea took her in midships, and soused the -loiterers. Sat up, or rather slept up, till ten o'clock, and then went -down to bed. I took up Pelham to-day for a second--'t is amazingly -clever, and like the thing it means to be, to boot. Heard something -funny that I wish to remember--at a Methodist meeting, the singer who -led the Psalm tune, finding that his concluding word, which was Jacob, -had not syllables enough to fill up the music adequately, ended -thus--Ja-a-a-a--Ja-a-a-a--fol-de-riddle--cob!-- - - -_Monday, 26th._ - -Read Byron's life;--defend me from my friends! Rose tolerably late; -after breakfast, took a walk on deck--lay and slept under our sea-tent; -read on until lunch-time--dined on deck. After dinner walked about with -H---- and the captain; we had seated ourselves on the ship's side, but -he being called away, we rushed off to the forecastle to enjoy the -starlight by ourselves. We sat for a little time, but were soon found -out; Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- joined us, and we sat till near twelve -o'clock, singing and rocking under the stars. Venus--"The star of love, -all stars above,"--threw a silver column down the sea, like the younger -sister of the moon's reflection. By the by, I saw to-day, and with -delight, an American sunset. The glorious god strode down heaven's hill, -without a cloud to dim his downward path;--as his golden disk touched -the panting sea, I turned my head away, and in less than a minute he had -fallen beneath the horizon--leapt down into the warm waves, and left one -glow of amber round half the sky; upon whose verge, where the violet -curtain of twilight came spreading down to meet its golden fringe, - - - "The maiden, - With white fire laden, - Whom mortals call the moon," - - -stood, with her silver lamp in her hand, and her pale misty robes -casting their wan lustre faintly around her. Oh me, how glorious it was! -how sad, how very very sad I was! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - - Dear, yet forbidden thoughts, that from my soul, - While shines the weary sun, with stern control - I drive away; why, when my spirits lie - Shrouded in the cold sleep of misery, - Do ye return, to mock me with false dreaming, - Where love, and all life's happiness is beaming? - Oh visions fair! that one by one have gone - Down, 'neath the dark horizon of my days, - Let not your pale reflection linger on - In the bleak sky, where live no more your rays. - Night! silent nurse, that with thy solemn eyes - Hang'st o'er the rocking cradle of the world, - Oh! be thou darker to my dreaming eyes, - Nor, in my slumbers, be the past unfurl'd. - Haunt me no more with whisperings from the dead. - The dead in heart, the changed, the withered: - Bring me no more sweet blossoms from my spring, - Which round my soul their early fragrance fling, - And, when the morning, with chill icy start, - Wakes me, hang blighted round my aching heart: - Oh night, and slumber, be ye visionless, - Dark as the grave, deep as forgetfulness! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - Night, thou shalt nurse me, but be sure, good nurse, - While sitting by my bed, that thou art silent; - I will not let thee sing me to my slumbers - With the sweet lullabies of former times, - Nor tell me tales, as other gossips wont, - Of the strange fairy days, that are all gone. - - -_Wednesday, 28th._ - -Skipped writing on Tuesday--so much the better--a miserable day spent -between heart-ach and side-ach. - - * * * * * - -Rose late, breakfasted with H----, afterwards went and sat on the -forecastle, where I worked the whole morning, woman's work, stitching. -It was intensely hot till about two o'clock, when a full east wind came -on, which the sailors all blessed, but which shook from its cold wings a -heavy, clammy, chilly dew, that presently pierced all our clothes, and -lay on the deck like rain. At dinner we were very near having a scene: -the Bostonian and the Jacksonite falling out again about the President; -and a sharp, quick, snapping conversation, which degenerated into a -snarl on one side, and a growl on the other, for a short time rather -damped the spirits of the table. Here, at least, General Jackson seems -very unpopular, and half the company echoed in earnest what I said in -jest to end the dispute, "Oh hang General Jackson!" After dinner, -returned to the forecastle with H---- to see the sun set; her brother -followed us thither. - - * * * * * - -Finished my work, and then, tying on sundry veils and handkerchiefs, -danced on deck for some time;--I then walked about with ----, by the -light of the prettiest young moon imaginable. - - * * * * * - -Afterwards sat working and stifling in the round-house till near ten, -and then, being no longer able to endure the heat, came down, undressed, -and sat luxuriously on the ground in my dressing-gown drinking lemonade. -At twelve went to bed; the men kept up a horrible row on deck half the -night; singing, dancing, whooping, and running over our heads. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The captain brought me to-day a land-swallow, which, having flown out so -far, came hovering exhausted over the ship, and suffered itself to be -caught. Poor little creature! how very much more I do love all things -than men and women! I felt sad to death for its weary little wings and -frightened heart, which beat against my hand, without its having -strength to struggle. I made a cage in a basket for it, and gave it some -seed, which it will not eat--little carnivorous wretch! I must catch -some flies for it. - - -_Thursday, 29th._ - -My poor little bird is dead. I am sorry! I could mourn almost as much -over the death of a soulless animal, as I would rejoice at that of a -brute with a soul. Life is to these winged things a pure enjoyment; and -to see the rapid pinions folded, and the bright eye filmed, conveys -sadness to the heart, for 'tis almost like looking on--what indeed is -not--utter cessation of existence. Poor little creature! I wished it had -not died--I would but have borne it tenderly and carefully to shore, and -given it back to the air again! - - * * * * * - -I sat down stairs in my cabin all day; the very spirit of doggerel -possessed me, and I poured forth rhymes as rapidly as possible, and they -were as bad as possible.--Wrote journal; in looking over my papers, fell -in with the Star of Seville--some of it is very good. I'll write an -English tragedy next. Dined at table--our heroes have drunk wine, and -are amicable. After dinner, went on deck, and took a short walk; saw the -sun set, which he did like a god, as he is, leaving the sky like a -geranium curtain, which overshadowed the sea with rosy light--beautiful! -Came down and sat on the floor like a Turkish woman, stitching, singing, -and talking, till midnight; supped--and to bed. My appetite seems like -the Danaides' tub, of credible memory. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Friday, 30th._ - -On soundings. A fog and a calm. Sky yellow, sea grey, dripping, damp, -dingy, dark, and very disagreeable. Sat working, reading, and talking in -our own cabin all day. Read part of a book called Adventures of a -Younger Son. The gentlemen amused themselves with fishing, and brought -up sundry hake and dog-fish. I examined the heart of one of the fish, -and was surprised at the long continuance of pulsation after the -cessation of existence. In the evening, sang, talked, and played French -blind man's buff;--sat working till near one o'clock, and reading -Moore's Fudge Family,--which is good fun. It's too hard to be becalmed -within thirty hours of our destination. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - - Why art thou weeping - Over the happy, happy dead, - Who are gone away - From this life of clay, - From this fount of tears, - From this burthen of years, - From sin, from sorrow, - From sad "to-morrow," - From struggling and creeping: - Why art thou weeping, - Oh fool, for the dead? - - Why art thou weeping - Over the steadfast faithful dead, - Who can never change, - Nor grow cold and strange, - - Nor turn away, - In a single day, - From the love they bore, - And the faith they swore; - Who are true for ever, - Will slight thee never, - But love thee still, - Through good and ill, - With the constancy - Of eternity: - Why art thou weeping, - Oh fool, for the dead? - - They are your only friends; - For where this foul life ends, - Alone beginneth truth, and love, and faith; - All which sweet blossoms are preserved by death. - - -_Saturday, 31st._ - -Becalmed again till about two o'clock, when a fair wind sprang up, and -we set to rolling before it like mad. How curious it is to see the ship, -like a drunken man, reel through the waters, pursued by that shrill -scold the wind! Worked at my handkerchief, and read aloud to them Mrs. -Jameson's book. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Set my foot half into a discussion about Portia, but withdrew it in -time. Lord bless us! what foul nonsense people do talk, and what much -fouler nonsense it is to answer them. Got very sick, and lay on the -ground till dinner-time; went to table, but withdrew again while it was -yet in my power to do so gracefully. Lay on the floor all the evening, -singing for very sea-sickness; suddenly it occurred to me, that it was -our last Saturday night on board; whereupon I indited a song to the tune -of "To Ladies' eyes a round, boys,"--and having duly instructed Mr. ---- -how to "speak the speech," we went to supper. _Last_--_last_--dear, what -is there in that word! I don't know one of this ship's company, don't -care for some of them--I have led a loathsome life in it for a month -past, and yet the _last_ Saturday night seemed half sad to me. Mr. ---- -sang my song and kept my secret: the song was encored, and my father -innocently demanded the author; I gave him a tremendous pinch, and -looked very silly. Merit, like murder, will out; so I fancy that when -they drank the health of the author, the whole table was aware of the -genius that sat among them. They afterwards sang a clever parody of "To -all ye ladies now on land," by Mr. ----, the "canny Scot," who has kept -himself so quiet all the way. Came to bed at about half-past twelve: -while undressing, I heard the captain come down stairs, and announce -that we were clear of Nantucket shoal, and within one hundred and fifty -miles of New York, which intelligence was received with three cheers. -They continued to sing and shout till very late. - - -SATURDAY NIGHT SONG. - - Come, fill the can again, boys, - One parting glass, one parting glass; - Ere we shall meet again, boys, - Long years may pass, long years may pass. - We'll drink the gallant bark, boys, - That's borne us through, that's borne us through, - Bright waves and billows dark, boys, - Our ship and crew, our ship and crew. - - We'll drink those eyes that bright, boys, - With smiling ray, with smiling ray, - Have shone like stars to light, boys, - Our watery way, our watery way. - We'll drink our English home, boys, - Our father land, our father land, - And the shores to which we're come, boys, - A sister strand, a sister strand. - - -_Sunday, September 2d._ - -Rose at half-past six: the sun was shining brilliantly; woke H---- and -went on deck with her. The morning was glorious, the sun had risen two -hours in the sky, the sea was cut by a strong breeze, and curled into -ridges that came like emerald banks crowned with golden spray round our -ship; she was going through the water at nine knots an hour. I sat and -watched the line of light that lay like a fairy road to the -east--towards my country, my dear dear home. - - * * * * * - -Breakfasted at table for the first time since I've been on board the -ship--I did hope, the last. After breakfast, put my things to rights, -tidied our cabin for prayers, and began looking out the lessons; while -doing so, the joyful sound, "Land, land!" was heard aloft. I rushed on -deck, and between the blue waveless sea, and the bright unclouded sky, -lay the wished-for line of darker element. 'Twas Long Island: through a -glass I descried the undulations of the coast, and even the trees that -stood relieved against the sky. Hail, strange land! my heart greets you -coldly and sadly! Oh, how I thought of Columbus, as with eyes strained -and on tiptoe our water-weary passengers stood, after a summer's sail of -thirty days, welcoming their mother earth! The day was heavenly, though -intensely hot, the sky utterly cloudless, and, by that same token, I do -not love a cloudless sky. They tell me that this is their American -weather almost till Christmas; that's nice, for those who like frying. -Commend me to dear England's soft, rich, sad, harmonious skies and -foliage--commend me to the misty curtain of silver vapour that hangs -over her September woods at morning, and shrouds them at night;--in -short, I am home-sick before touching land. After lunch, my father read -prayers to us, and that excellent sermon of dear Mr. Thurstone's on -taking the sacrament. After prayers, came on deck; there were two or -three sails in sight--hailed a schooner which passed us--bad news of the -cholera--pleasant this--walked about, collected goods and chattels, -wrote journal, spent some time in seeing a couple of geese take a -sea-swim with strings tied to their legs. After dinner, sat in my cabin -some time--walked on deck; when the gentlemen joined us, we danced the -sun down, and the moon up. The sky was like the jewel-shop of angels; I -never saw such brilliant stars, nor so deep an azure to hang them in. -The moon was grown powerful, and flooded the deck, where we sat playing -at blind man's buff, magic music, and singing, and talking of shore till -midnight, when we came to bed. I must not forget how happy an omen -greeted us this morning. As we stood watching the "_dolce color di -oriental zaffiro_," one of the wild wood pigeons of America flew round -our mizen-mast, and alighted on the top-sail yard;--this was the first -living creature which welcomed us to the New World, and it pleased my -superstitious fancy. I would have given any thing to have caught the -bird, but, after resting itself awhile, it took flight again and left -us. We were talking to-day to one of our steerage passengers, a -Huddersfield manufacturer, going out in quest of a living, with five -children of his own to take care of, and two nephews. The father of the -latter, said our Yorkshireman, having married a second time, and these -poor children being as it were "_thristen_ (thrust) out into the world -loike--whoy oi jist took care of them." Verily, verily, he will have his -reward--these tender mercies of the poor to one another are beautiful, -and most touching. - - -_Monday, September 3d._ - -I had desired the mate to call me by sunrise, and accordingly, in the -midst of a very sound and satisfactory sleep, Mr. Curtis shook me -roughly by the arm, informing me that the sun was just about to rise. -The glorious god was quicker at his toilet than I at mine; for though I -did but put on a dressing-gown and cloak, I found him come out of his -eastern chamber, arrayed like a bridegroom, without a single beam -missing. I called H----, and we remained on deck watching the clouds -like visions of brightness and beauty, enchanted creations of some -strange spell-land--at every moment assuming more fantastic shapes and -gorgeous tints. Dark rocks seemed to rise, with dazzling summits of -light pale lakes of purest blue spread here and there between--the sun -now shining through a white wreath of floating silver, now firing, with -a splendour that the eye shrank from, the edges of some black cloudy -mass. Oh, it was surpassing!--We were becalmed, however, which rather -damped all our spirits, and half made the captain swear. Towards mid-day -we had to thank Heaven for an incident. A brig had been standing aft -against the horizon for some hours past, and we presently descried a -boat rowing from her towards us. The distance was some five miles, the -sun broiling; we telescoped and stood on tiptoe; they rowed stoutly, and -in due time boarded us. She was an English brig from Bristol, had been -out eleven weeks, distressed by contrary winds, and was in want of -provisions. The boat's crew was presently surrounded, grog was given the -men, porter to the captain and his companion. Our dear captain supplied -them with every thing they wanted, and our poor steerage passengers sent -their mite to the distressed crew in the shape of a sack of potatoes; -they remained half an hour on board, we clustering round them, -questioning and answering might and main. As H---- said, they were new -faces at least, and, though two of the most ill-favoured physiognomies I -ever set eyes on, there was something refreshing even in their ugly -novelty. After this the whole day was one of continual excitement, -nearing the various points of land, greeting vessels passing us, and -watching those bound on the same course. At about four o'clock a -schooner came alongside with a news-collector; he was half devoured with -queries; news of the cholera, reports of the tariff and bank questions, -were loudly demanded: poor people, how anxiously they looked for replies -to the first! Mr. ----, upon whose arm I leant, turned pale as death -while asking how it had visited Boston. Poor fellow! poor people all! my -heart ached with their anxiety. As the evening darkened, the horizon -became studded with sails; at about eight o'clock we discovered the -Highlands of Neversink, the entrance to New York harbour, and presently -the twin lights of Sandy Hook glimmered against the sky. We were all in -high spirits; a fresh breeze had sprung up, we were making rapidly to -land; the lovely ship, with all sail set, courtesying along the smooth -waters. The captain alone seemed anxious, and was eagerly looking out -for the pilot. Some had gathered to the ship's side, to watch the -progress of Colonel ----, who had left us and gone into the news-boat, -which was dancing like a fairy by the side of our dark vessel. Cheering -resounded on all sides, rockets were fired from the ship's stern, we -were all dancing, when suddenly a cry was echoed round of "A pilot, a -pilot!" and close under the ship's side a light graceful little schooner -shot like an arrow through the dim twilight, followed by a universal -huzza; she tacked, and lay to, but proved only a news-boat: while, -however, all were gathered round the collector, the pilot-boat came -alongside, and the pilot on board; the captain gave up the cares and -glories of command, and we danced an interminable country dance. All was -excitement and joyous confusion; poor Mr. ---- alone seemed smitten with -sudden anxiety; the cholera reports had filled him with alarm, lest his -agent should have died, and his affairs on his arrival be in confusion -and ruin--poor fellow! I was very sorry for him. We went down to supper -at ten, and were very merry, in spite of the ship's bumping twice or -thrice upon the sands. Came up and dawdled upon deck--saw them cast -anchor; away went the chain, down dropped the heavy stay, the fair ship -swung round, and there lay New York before us, with its clustered lights -shining like a distant constellation against the dark outline of land. -Remained on deck till very late--were going to bed, when the gentlemen -entreated us to join their party once more; we did so, sang all the old -songs, laughed at all the old jokes, drank our own and each other's -health, wealth, and prosperity, and came to bed at two o'clock. Our -cradle rocks no longer, but lies still on the still waters; we have -reached our destination; I thank God! I did so with all my soul. - - -_Tuesday, September 4th, -New York, America._ - -It is true, by my faith! it is true; there it is written, here I sit, I -am myself and no other, this is New York and nowhere else--Oh! -"singular, strange!" Our passengers were all stirring and about at peep -of day, and I got up myself at half past six. Trunks lay scattered in -every direction around, and all were busily preparing to leave the good -ship Pacific. Mercy on us! it made me sad to leave her and my shipmates. -I feel like a wretch swept down a river to the open sea, and catch at -the last boughs that hang over the banks to stay me from that wide -loneliness. The morning was real Manchester. I believe some of the -passengers had brought the fog and rain in their English clothes, which -they were all putting on, together with best hats, dandy cravats, -etc.--to make a _sensation_. A fog hung over the shores of Staten Island -and Long Island, in spite of which, and a dreary, heavy, thick rain, I -thought the hilly outline of the former very beautiful; the trees and -grass were rather sunburnt, but in a fair spring day I should think it -must be lovely. We breakfasted, and packed ourselves into our shawls and -bonnets, and at half-past nine the steam-boat came alongside to take us -to shore: it was different from any English steam-boat I ever saw, -having three decks, and being consequently a vessel of very considerable -size. We got on board her all in the rain and misery, and, as we drifted -on, our passengers collected to the side of the boat, and gave "The dear -old Lady" three cheers. Poor ship! there she lay--all sails reefed, -rocking in melancholy inaction, deserted by her merry inmates, lonely -and idle--poor Pacific! I should like to return in that ship; I would -willingly skip a passage in order to do so. All were looking at the -shores; some wondering and admiring, others recognising through the rain -and mist, as best they might; I could not endure to lift my eyes to the -strange land, and, even had I done so, was crying too bitterly to see -any thing. Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- went to secure apartments for us at the -American Hotel; and, after bidding good-by to the sea, we packed -ourselves into a hackney coach, and progressed. The houses are almost -all painted glaring white or red; the other favourite colours appear to -be pale straw colour and grey. They have all green Venetian shutters, -which give an idea of coolness, and almost every house has a tree or -trees in its vicinity, which looks pretty and garden-like. We reached -our inn,--the gentlemen were waiting for us, and led us to our -drawing-room. I had been choking for the last three hours, and could -endure no more, but sobbed like a wretch aloud. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -There was a piano in the room, to which I flew with the appetite of one -who has lived on the music of the speaking-trumpet for a month; that, -and some iced lemonade and cake, presently restored my spirits. I went -on playing and singing till I was exhausted, and then sat down and wrote -journal. Mr. ---- went out and got me Sir Humphry Davy's Salmonia, which -I had been desiring, and he had been speaking of on board ship. - -At five o'clock we all met once more together to dinner. Our -drawing-room being large and pleasant, the table was laid in it. 'Tis -curious how an acquaintanceship of thirty days has contrived to bind -together in one common feeling of kindness and good-fellowship persons -who never met before, who may never meet again. To-morrow we all -separate, to betake ourselves each to our several path; and, as if loath -to part company, they all agreed to meet once more on the eve of doing -so, probably for ever. How strongly this clinging principle is inherent -in our nature! These men have no fine sympathies of artificial creation, -and this exhibition of _adhesiveness_ is in them a real and heart-sprung -feeling. It touched me--indeed it may well do so; for friends of thirty -days are better than utter strangers, and when these my shipmates shall -be scattered abroad, there will be no human being left near us whose -face we know, or whose voice is familiar to us. Our dinner was a -favourable specimen of eating as practised in this new world; every -thing good, only in too great a profusion; the wine drinkable, and the -fruit beautiful to look at: in point of flavour it was infinitely -inferior to English hothouse fruit, or even fine espalier fruit raised -in a good aspect. Every thing was wrapped in ice, which is a most -luxurious necessary in this hot climate; but the things were put on the -table in a slovenly outlandish fashion; fish, soup, and meat, at once, -and puddings, and tarts, and cheese, at another once; no finger-glasses, -and a patched table-cloth,--in short, a want of that style and neatness -which is found in every hotel in England. The waiters, too, reminded us -of the half-savage Highland lads that used to torment us under that -denomination in Glasgow--only that they were wild Irish instead of wild -Scotch. The day had cleared, and become intensely hot, towards evening -softening and cooling under the serene influences of the loveliest moon -imaginable. The streets were brilliantly lighted, the shops through the -trees, and the people parading between them, reminded me very much of -the Boulevards. We left the gentlemen, and went down stairs, where I -played and sang for three hours. On opening the door, I found a junta of -men sitting on the hall floor, round it, and smoking. Came up for -coffee; most of the gentlemen were rather elated,--we sang, and danced, -and talked, and seemed exceeding loath to say good-by. I sat listening -to the dear Doctor's theory of the nature of the soul, which savoured -infinitely more of the spirituality of the bottle than of immaterial -existences. I heard him descant very tipsily upon the vital principle, -until my fatigue getting fairly the better of my affection for him, I -bade our remaining guests good night, and came to bed. - - -_Wednesday, 5th._ - -I have been in a sulky fit half the day, because people will keep -walking in and out of our room, without leave or license, which is -coming a great deal too soon to Hope's idea of Heaven. I am delighted to -see my friends, but I like to tell them so, and not that they should -take it for granted. When I made my appearance in my dressing-gown (my -clothes not being come, and the day too hot for a silk pelisse), great -was my amazement to find our whole ship's company assembled at the -table. After breakfast they dispersed, and I sat writing journal, and -playing, and singing. Colonel ---- and Mr. ---- called. Our Boston -friends leave us to-day for their homes. I am sorry to lose them, though -I think H---- will be the better for rest. Mrs. ---- called to see D---- -to-day. I remember her name, as one of the first things I do remember. A -visit from a Mr. ----, one of the directors of the Custom-House, and -W---- P----, brother to the proprietor of the Park theatre, who is a -lawyer of considerable reputation here. The face of the first was good, -the other's clever. I said nothing, as usual, and let them depart in -peace. We dined at half-past two, with the H----s and Mr. ----. At -half-past three we walked down to the quay to convoy them to their -steam-boat, which looked indeed like a "castle on the main." We saw them -on board, went down and looked at the state cabin, which was a -magnificent room, and would have done charmingly for a gallopade. We -bade our new friends, whom I like better than some old ones, good-by, -and walked briskly on to the Battery, to see them as they passed it. The -sun was intensely hot; and as I struggled forward, hooked up to this -young Sheffield giant, I thought we were the living illustration of -Hood's "Long and Short" of it. We gained the battery, and saw the -steam-boat round; our travellers kept the deck with "hat and glove and -handkerchief," as long as we could see them. This Battery is a beautiful -marine parade, commanding the harbour and entrance of the bay, with -Governor's Island, and its dusky red fort, and the woody shores of New -Jersey and Long Island. A sort of public promenade, formed of grass -plots, planted with a variety of trees, affords a very agreeable -position from whence to enjoy the lovely view. My companion informed me -that this was a fashionable resort some time ago; but owing to its -being frequented by the lowest and dirtiest of the rabble, who in this -land of liberty roll themselves on the grass, and otherwise annoy the -more respectable portion of the promenaders, it has been much deserted -lately, and is now only traversed by the higher classes as a -thoroughfare. The trees and grass were vividly and luxuriantly green; -but the latter grew rank and long, unshorn and untidy. "Oh," thought I, -"for a pair of English shears, to make these green carpets as smooth and -soft and thick as the close-piled Genoa velvet." It looked neglected and -slovenly. Came home up Broadway, which is a long street of tolerable -width, full of shops, in short the American Oxford Road, where all -people go to exhibit themselves and examine others. The women that I -have seen hitherto have all been very gaily dressed, with a pretension -to French style, and a more than English exaggeration of it. They all -appear to me to walk with a French shuffle, which, as their pavements -are flat, I can only account for by their wearing shoes made in the -French fashion, which are enough in themselves to make a waddler of the -best walker that ever set foot to earth. Two or three were pretty girls; -but the town being quite empty, these are probably bad specimens of the -graces and charms that adorn Broadway in its season of shining. Came -home and had tea; after which my father, I, and Mr. ---- crossed the -Park (a small bit of grass enclosed in white palings, in plain English, -a green) to the theatre. Wallack was to act in the Rent Day. Mercy, how -strange I felt as I once more set foot in a theatre; the sound of the -applause set my teeth on edge. The house is pretty, though rather -gloomy, well formed, about the size of the Haymarket, with plenty of -gold carving, and red silk about it, looking rich and warm. The audience -was considerable, but all men; scarce, I should think, twenty women in -the dress circle, where, by the by, as well as in the private boxes, I -saw men sitting with their hats on. The Rent Day is a thorough -melodrama, only the German monster has put on a red waistcoat and top -boots. Nathless this is a good thing of a bad sort: the incidents, -though not all probable, or even as skilfully tacked together as they -might be, are striking and dramatically effective, and the whole piece -turns on those home feelings, those bitterest realities of every-day -life, that wring one's heart, beyond the pain that one allows works of -fiction to excite. As for the imitation of Wilkie's pictures, the first -was very pretty, but the second I did not see, my face being buried in -my handkerchief, besides having a quarter less seven fathom of tears -over it, at the time. I cried most bitterly during the whole piece; for -as in his very first scene Wallack asks his wife if she will go with him -to America, and she replies, "What! leave the farm?" I set off from -thence and ceased no more. The manager's wife and another woman were in -the box, which was his, and I thought we should have carried away the -front of it with our tears. Wallack played admirably: I had never seen -him before, and was greatly delighted with his acting. I thought him -handsome of a rustic kind, the very thing for the part he played, a fine -English yeoman: he reminded me of ----. At the end of the play, came -home with a tremendous headach: sat gossiping and drinking lemonade. -Presently a tap at the door came, and through the door came Mr. ----. I -shook hands with him, and began expatiating on the impertinence of -people's not enquiring down stairs whether we were at home or not before -they came up--I don't believe he took my idea. Mr. ---- came in to bid -us good-by: he starts to-morrow for Baltimore. He is a nice -good-tempered young Irishman, with more tongue than brains, but still -clever enough: I am sorry he is going. Came to bed-room at eleven, -remained up till one, unpacking goods and chattels. Mercy on me, what a -cargo it is! They have treated us like ambassadors, and not one of our -one-and-twenty huge boxes have been touched. - - -_Thursday, 6th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, began writing to my brother; while doing -so they brought up Captain ----'s and Mr. ----'s cards. I was delighted -to see our dear Captain again, who, in spite of his glorious slip-slop, -is a glorious fellow. They sat some time. Colonel ---- called--he walks -my father off his legs. When they were all gone, finished letter and -wrote journal. Unpacked and sorted things. Opened with a trembling heart -my bonnet-box, and found my precious _Devy_ squeezed to a crush--I -pulled it out, rebowed, and reblonded, and reflowered it, and now it -looks good enough "pour les _tha_uvages, mam_the_lle Fannie." Worked at -my muslin gown; in short, did a deal. A cheating German woman came here -this morning with some bewitching canezous and pelerines: I chose two -that I wanted, and one very pretty one that I didn't; but as she asked a -heathen price for 'em, I took only the former;--dear good little me![1] -We dined at five. After dinner, sang and played to my father, "all by -the light of the moon." The evening was, as the day had been, lovely; -and as I stood by his side near the open window, and saw him inhaling -the pure fresh air, which he said invigorated and revived him, and heard -him exclaim upon the beauty of our surroundings, half of my regret for -this exile melted away. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -He said to me, "Is there not reason to be grateful to God, when we look -at these fair things?"--and indeed, indeed, there is: yet these things -are not to me what they were. He told me that he had begun a song on -board ship for the last Saturday night, but that, not feeling well, he -had given it up, but the very same ideas I had made use of had occurred -to him. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -This is not surprising; the ideas were so obvious that there was no -escaping them. My father is ten years younger since he came here, -already. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Colonel ---- came in after tea, and took my father off to the Bowery -theatre. I remained with D----, singing and stitching, and gossiping -till twelve o'clock. My father has been introduced to half the town, and -tells me that far from the democratic _Mister_, which he expected to be -every man's title here, he had made the acquaintance of a score of -municipal dignitaries, and some sixty colonels and major generals--of -militia. Their omnibuses are vehicles of rank, and the _Ladies_ -Washington, Clinton, and Van Rensalear,[2] rattle their crazy bones -along the pavement for all the world like any other old women of -quality. - -These democrats are as title-sick as a banker's wife in England. My -father told me to-day, that Mr. ----, talking about the state of the -country, spoke of the lower orders finding their level: now this -enchants me, because a republic is a natural anomaly; there is nothing -republican in the construction of the material universe; there be -highlands and lowlands, lordly mountains as barren as any aristocracy, -and lowly valleys as productive as any labouring classes. The feeling of -rank, of inequality, is inherent in us, a part of the veneration of our -natures; and like most of our properties seldom finds its right -channels--in place of which it has created artificial ones suited to the -frame of society into which the civilised world has formed itself. I -believe in my heart that a republic is the noblest, highest, and purest -form of government; but I believe that, according to the present -disposition of human creatures, 'tis a mere beau ideal, totally -incapable of realisation. What the world may be fit for six hundred -years hence, I cannot exactly perceive; but in the mean time, 'tis my -conviction that America will be a monarchy before I am a skeleton. - -One of the curses of living at an inn in this unceremonious land:--Dr. ----- walked in this evening accompanied by a gentleman, whom he -forthwith introduced to us. I behaved very _ill_, as I always do on -these occasions; but 'tis an impertinence, and I shall take good care to -certify such to be my opinion of these free-and-easy proceedings. The -man had a silly manner, but he may be a genius for all that. He abused -General Jackson, and said the cholera was owing to his presidency; for -that Clay had predicted that when he came into power, battle, -pestilence, and famine, would come upon the land: which prophecy finds -its accomplishment thus: they have had a war with the Indians, the -cholera has raged, and the people, flying from the infected cities to -the country, have eaten half the farmers out of house and home. This -hotel reminds me most extremely of our "iligant" and untidy apartments -in dear nasty Dublin, at the Shelbourne. The paper in our bed-room is -half peeling from the walls, our beds are without curtains: then to be -sure there are pier looking-glasses, and one or two pieces of showy -French furniture in it. 'Tis customary, too, here, I find, for men to -sleep three or four in a room: conceive an Englishman shown into a -dormitory for half-a-dozen! I can't think how they endure it; but, -however, I have a fever at all those things. My father asked me, this -evening, to write a sonnet about the wild pigeons welcoming us to -America; I had thought of it with scribbling intent before, but he wants -me to get it up here, and that sickened me. - - -_Friday, 7th._ - -Rose at eight: after breakfast tidied my dressing-box, mended and tucked -my white muslin gown--wrote journal: while doing so, Colonel ---- came -to take leave of us for a few days: he is going to join his wife in the -country. Mr. ---- called and remained some time; while he was here, the -waiter brought me word that a Mr. ---- wanted to see me. I sent word -down that my father was out, knowing no such person, and supposing the -waiter had mistaken whom he asked for; but the gentleman persisted in -seeing me, and presently in walked a good-looking elderly man, who -introduced himself as Mr. ----, to whom my father had letters of -introduction. He sat himself down, and pottered a little, and then went -away. When he was gone, Mr. ---- informed me that this was one of _the_ -men of New York, in point of wealth, influence, and consideration. He -had been a great auctioneer, but had retired from business, having, -among his other honours, filled the office of Mayor of New York. My -father and Mr. ---- went to put our letters in the post: I practised and -needle-worked till dinner-time; after dinner, as I stood at the window -looking at the lovely sky and the brilliant earth, a curious effect of -light struck me. Within a hundred yards of each other, the Town-Hall -lay, with its white walls glowing in the sunset, while the tall grey -church-steeple was turning pale in the clear moonlight. That Town Hall -is a white-washed anomaly, and yet its effect is not altogether bad. I -took a bath at the house behind it, which is very conveniently arranged -for that purpose, with a French sort of gallery, all papered with the -story of Psyche in lead-coloured paper, that reminded me of the doughy -immortals I used to admire so much, at the inns at Abbeville and -Montreuil. The house was kept by a foreigner--I knew it. My father -proposed to us a walk, and we accordingly sallied forth. We walked to -the end of Broadway, a distance of two miles, I should think, and then -back again. The evening was most lovely. The moon was lighting the whole -upper sky, but every now and then, as we crossed the streets that led to -the river, we caught glimpses of the water, and woody banks, and the sky -that hung over them; which all were of that deep orange tint, that I -never saw but in Claude's pictures. After walking nearly a mile up -Broadway, we came to Canal Street: it is broader and finer than any I -have yet seen in New York; and at one end of it, a Christian church, -copied from some Pagan temple or other, looked exceedingly well, in the -full flood of silver light that streamed from heaven. There were many -temptations to look around, but the flags were so horribly broken and -out of order, that to do so was to run the risk of breaking one's -neck:--this is very bad.[3] The street was very much thronged, and I -thought the crowd a more civil and orderly one than an English crowd. -The men did not jostle or push one another, or tread upon one's feet, or -kick down one's shoe heels, or crush one's bonnet into one's face, or -turn it round upon one's head, all which I have seen done in London -streets. There is this to be said: this crowd was abroad merely for -pleasure, sauntering along, which is a thing never seen in London; the -proportion of idle loungers who frequent the streets there being very -inconsiderable, when compared with the number of people going on -business through the town. I observed that the young men to-night -invariably made room for women to pass, and many of them, as they drew -near us, took the cigar from their mouth, which I thought especially -courteous.[4] They were all smoking, to a man, except those who were -spitting, which helped to remind me of Paris, to which the whole place -bore a slight resemblance. The shops appear to me to make no show -whatever, and will not bear a comparison with the brilliant display of -the Parisian streets, or the rich magnificence of our own, in that -respect. The women dress very much, and very much like French women gone -mad; they all of them seem to me to walk horribly ill, as if they wore -tight shoes. Came in rather tired, took tea, sang an immensity, wrote -journal, looked at the peerless moon, and now will go to bed. - - -_Saturday 8th._ - -Stitching the whole blessed day; and as I have now no maid to look after -them, my clothes run some chance of being decently taken care of, and -kept in order. Mr. ---- and his daughter called; I like him; he appears -very intelligent; and the expression of his countenance is clever and -agreeable. His daughter was dressed up in French clothes, and looked -very stiff; but, however, a first visit is an awkward thing, and nothing -that isn't thorough-bred ever does it quite well. When they were gone, -Mr. ---- called. By the by, of Mr. ----, while he was speaking, he came -to the word _calculate_, and stopping half way, substituted another for -it, which made me laugh internally. Mercy on me! how sore all these -people are about Mrs. Trollope's book, and how glad I am I did not read -it. She must have spoken the truth though, for lies do not rankle so. - - - "Qui ne nous touche point ne nous fait pas rougir." - - -Worked till dinner-time. ---- dined with us: what a handsome man he is; -but oh, what a within-and-without actor! I wonder whether I carry such a -brand in every limb and look of me; if I thought so, I'd strangle -myself. An actor shall be self-convicted, in five hundred. There is a -ceaseless striving at effect, a straining after points in talking, and -a lamp and orange-peel twist in every action. How odious it is to me! -Absolute and unmitigated vulgarity I can put up with, and welcome; but -good Heaven defend me from the genteel version of vulgarity! to see -which in perfection, a country actor, particularly if he is also -manager, and sees occasionally people who bespeak plays, is your best -occasion. My dear father, who was a little elated, made me sing to him, -which I greatly gulped at. When he was gone, went on playing and -singing. Wrote journal, and now to bed. I'm dead of the side-ach.[5] - - -_Sunday, 9th._ - -Rose at eight. While I was dressing, D---- went out of the room, and -presently I heard sundry exclamations: "Good God, is it you! How are -you? How have you been?" I opened the door, and saw my uncle. - - * * * * * - -After breakfast, went to church with my father: on our way thither-ward -met the Doctor, and the Doctor's friend, and Mr. ----, to whom I have -taken an especial fancy. The church we went to is situated half way -between the Battery and our hotel. It is like a chapel in the exterior, -being quite plain, and standing close in among the houses; the interior -was large and perfectly simple. The town is filling, and the church was -well attended. 'Tis long since I have heard the church service so well -read; with so few vices of pronunciation, or vulgarisms of emphasis. Our -own clergy are shamefully negligent in this point; and if Chesterfield's -maxim be a good one in all cases, which it is, surely in the matter of -the service of God's house 'tis doubly so; they lose an immense -advantage, too, by their slovenly and careless way of delivering the -prayers, which are in themselves so beautiful, so eloquent, so full of -the very spirit of devotion; that whereas, now, a congregation seems but -to follow their leader, in gabbling them over as they do, were they -solemnly, devoutly, and impressively read, many would feel and -understand, what they now repeat mechanically, without attaching one -idea to the words they utter. There was no clerk to assist in the -service, and the congregation were as neglectful of the directions in -the prayer-book, and as indolent and remiss in uttering the responses, -as they are in our own churches; indeed, the absence of the clerk made -the inaudibility of the congregation's portion of the service more -palpable than it is with us. The organ and chanting were very good; -infinitely superior to the performances of those blessed little parish -cherubim, who monopolise the praises of God in our churches, so much to -the suffering of all good Christians not favoured with deafness. The -service is a little altered--all prayers for our King, Queen, House of -Lords, Parliament, etc., of course omitted: in lieu of which, they pray -for the President and all existing authorities. Sundry repetitions of -the Lord's Prayer, and other passages, were left out; they correct our -English, too, substituting the more modern phraseology of _those_, for -the dear old-fashioned _them_, which our prayer-book uses: as, "spare -thou _those_, O God," instead of "spare thou _them_, O God, which -confess their faults." Wherever the word wealth occurs, too, these -zealous purists, connecting that word with no idea but dollars and -cents, have replaced it by a term more acceptable to their -comprehension,--prosperity,--therefore they say, "In all time of our -prosperity (_i. e._ wealth), in all time of our tribulation," etc. I -wonder how these gentlemen interpret the word commonwealth, or whether, -in the course of their reading, they ever met with the word deprived of -the final _th_; and if so, what they imagined it meant.[6] Our prayers -were desired for some one putting out to sea; and a very touching -supplication to that effect was read, in which I joined with all my -heart. The sermon would have been good, if it had been squeezed into -half the compass it occupied; it was upon the subject of the late -terrible visitations with which God has tried the world, and was -sensibly and well delivered, only it had "damnable iteration." The day -was like an oven; after church, came home. Mr. ---- called, also Mr. -----, the Boston manager, who is longer than any human being I ever saw. -Presently after, a visit from "his honour the Recorder," a twaddling old -lawyer by the name of ----, and a silent young gentleman, his son. They -were very droll. The lawyer talked the most; at every half sentence, -however, quoting, complimenting, or appealing to "his honour the -Recorder," a little, good-tempered, turnippy-looking man, who called me -a female; and who, the other assured me, was the _Chesterfieldian_ of -New York (I don't know precisely what that means): what fun! Again I had -an opportunity of perceiving how thorough a chimera the equality is, -that we talk of as American. "There's no such thing," with a vengeance! -Here they were, talking of their aristocracy and democracy; and I'm -sure, if nothing else bore testimony to the inherent love of _higher -things_ which I believe exists in every human creature, the way in which -the lawyer dwelt upon the Duke of Montrose, lo whom, in Scotch kindred, -he is allied at the distance of some miles, and Lady Loughborough, whom -Heaven knows how he got hold of, would have satisfied me, that a my -Lord, or my Lady, are just as precious in the eyes of these levellers, -as in those of Lord and Lady-loving John Bull himself. They staid -pottering a long time. One thing his "honour the Recorder" told me, -which I wish lo remember: that the only way of preserving universal -suffrage from becoming the worst of abuses, was of course to educate the -people,[7] for which purpose a provision is made by government. Thus: a -grant of land is given, the revenue of which being estimated, the -population of the State are taxed to precisely the same amount; thus -furnishing, between the government and the people, an equal sum for the -education of all classes.[8] I do nothing but look out of window all the -blessed day long: I did not think in my old age to acquire so Jezebel a -trick; but the park (as they entitle the green opposite our windows) is -so very pretty, and the streets so gay, with their throngs of -smartly-dressed women, and so amusing with their abundant proportion of -black and white caricatures, that I find my window the most entertaining -station in the world. Read Salmonia: the natural-history part of it is -curious and interesting; but the local descriptions are beyond measure -tantalising; and the "bites," five thousand times more so. Our -ship-mate, Mr. ----, called: I was glad to see him. Poor man! how we did -_reel_ him off his legs to be sure,--what fun it was! My father dined -out: D---- and I dined _tete-a-tete_. Poor D---- has not been well -to-day: she is dreadfully bitten by the musquitoes, which, I thank their -discrimination, have a thorough contempt for me, and have not come near -me: the only things that bother me are little black ants, which I find -in my wash-hand basin, and running about in all directions. I think the -quantity of fruit brings them into the houses. After dinner, sat looking -at the blacks parading up and down; most of them in the height of the -fashion, with every colour in the rainbow about them. Several of the -black women I saw pass had very fine figures (the women here appear to -me to be remarkably small, my own being, I should think, the average -height); but the contrast of a bright blue or pink crape bonnet, with -the black face, white teeth, and glaring blue whites of the eyes, is -beyond description grotesque. The carriages here are all, to my taste, -very ugly; hung very high from the ground, and of all manner of ungainly -old-fashioned shapes. Now this is where, I think, the Americans are to -be quarrelled with: they are beginning at a time when all other nations -are arrived at the highest point of perfection, in all matters conducive -to the comfort and elegance of life: they go into these countries; into -France, into our own dear little snuggery, from whence they might bring -models of whatever was most excellent, and give them to their own -manufacturers, to imitate or improve upon. When I see these awkward -uncomfortable vehicles swinging through the streets, and think of the -beauty, the comfort, the strength, and lightness of our English-built -carriages and cabs, I am much surprised at the want of emulation and -enterprise, which can be satisfied with inferiority, when equality, if -not superiority, would be so easy.[9] At seven o'clock, D---- and I -walked out together. The evening was very beautiful, and we walked as -far as Canal Street and back. During our promenade, two fire-engines -passed us, attended by the usual retinue of shouting children; this is -about the sixth fire since yesterday evening. They are so frequent here, -that the cry "Fire, fire!" seems to excite neither alarm nor curiosity, -and except the above-mentioned pains-taking juveniles, none of the -inhabitants seem in the least disturbed by it.[10] We prosecuted our -walk down to the Battery, but just as we reached it we had to return, as -'twas tea-time. I was sorry: the whole scene was most lovely. The moon -shone full upon the trees and intersecting walks of the promenade, and -threw a bright belt of silver along the water's edge. The fresh night -wind came over the broad estuary, rippling it, and stirring the boughs -with its delicious breath. A building, which was once a fort from whence -the Americans fired upon our ships, is now turned into a sort of _cafe_, -and was brilliantly lighted with coloured lamps, shining among the -trees, and reflected in the water. The whole effect was pretty, and very -Parisian. We came home, and had tea, after which Mr. ---- came in. He -told us, that we must not walk alone at night, for that we might get -spoken to; and that a friend of his, seeing us go out without a man, had -followed us the whole way, in order to see that nothing happened to us: -this was very civil. Played and sang, and strove to make that stupid lad -sing, but he was shy, and would not open his mouth even the accustomed -hair's-breadth. At about eleven he went away; and we came to bed at -twelve. - - -_Monday, 10th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast wrote journal, and practised for an hour. ----- called. I remember taking a great fancy to him about eight years -ago, when I was a little girl in Paris; but, mercy, how he is aged! I -wonder whether I am beginning to look old yet, for it seems to me that -all the world's in wrinkles. My father went out with him. Read a canto -in Dante; also read through a volume of Bryant's poetry, which Mr. ---- -had lent us, to introduce us to the American Parnassus. I liked a great -deal of it very well; and I liked the pervading spirit of it much more, -which appears to me hopeful and bright, and what the spirit of a poet -should be; for in spite of all De Stael's sayings, and Byron's doings, I -hold that melancholy is _not_ essentially the nature of a poet. Though -instances may be adduced of great poets whose Helicon has been but a -bitter well of tears, yet, in itself, the spirit of poetry appears to me -to be too strong, too bright, too full of the elements of beauty and of -excellence, too full of God's own nature, to be dark or desponding; and -though from the very fineness of his mental constitution a poet shall -suffer more intensely from the baseness and the bitterness which are the -leaven of life, yet he, of all men, the most possesses the power to -discover truth, and beauty, and goodness, where they do exist; and where -they exist not, to create them. If the clouds of existence are darker, -its sunshine is also brighter to him; and while others, less gifted, -lose themselves in the labyrinth of life, his spirit should throw light -upon the darkness, and he should walk in peace and faith over the stormy -waters, and through the uncertain night; standing as 'twere above the -earth, he views with clearer eyes its mysteries; he finds in apparent -discord glorious harmony, and to him the sum of all is good; for, in -God's works, good still abounds to the subjection of evil. 'Tis this -trustful spirit that seems to inspire Bryant, and to me, therefore, his -poetry appears essentially good. There is not much originality in it. I -scarce think there can be, in poems so entirely descriptive: his -descriptions are very beautiful, but there is some sameness in them, and -he does not escape self-repetition; but I am a bad critic, for which I -thank God! I know the tears rolled down my cheeks more than once as I -read; I know that agreeable sensations and good thoughts were suggested -by what I read; I thought some of it beautiful, and all of it wholesome -(in contradistinction to the literature of this age), and I was well -pleased with it altogether. Afterwards read a sort of satirical -burlesque, called "Fanny," by Hallek: the wit being chiefly confined to -local allusions and descriptions of New York manners, I could not derive -much amusement from it. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -When my father came home, went with him to call on Mrs. ----. What I saw -of the house appeared to me very pretty, and well adapted to the heat of -the season. A large and lofty room, paved with India matting, and -furnished with white divans, and chairs, no other furniture encumbering -or cramming it up; it looked very airy and cool. Our hostess did not put -herself much out of the way to entertain us, but after the first "how do -you do," continued conversing with another visiter, leaving us to the -mercy of a very pretty young lady, who carried on the conversation at an -average of a word every three minutes. Neither Mr. ---- nor his eldest -daughter were at home; the latter, however, presently came in, and -relieved her sister and me greatly. We sat the proper time, and then -came away. - - * * * * * - -This is a species of intercourse I love not any where. I never practised -it in my own blessed land, neither will I here. We dined at six: after -dinner played and sang till eight, and then walked out with D---- and my -father, by the most brilliant moonlight in the world. We went down to -the Battery; the aquatic Vauxhall was lighted up very gaily, and they -were sending up rockets every few minutes, which, shooting athwart the -sky, threw a bright stream of light over the water, and, falling back in -showers of red stars, seemed to sink away before the steadfast shining -of the moon, who held high supremacy in heaven. The bay lay like molten -silver under her light, and every now and then a tiny skiff, emerging -from the shade, crossed the bright waters, its dark hull and white sails -relieved between the shining sea and radiant sky. Came home at nine, -tea'd and sat embroidering till twelve o'clock, industrious little me. - - -_Tuesday, 11th._ - -This day week we landed in New York; and this day was its prototype, -rainy, dull, and dreary; with occasional fits of sunshine, and light -delicious air, as capricious as a fine lady. After breakfast, Colonel ----- called. Wrote journal, and practised till one o'clock. My father -then set off with Colonel ---- for Hoboken, a place across the water, -famous once for duelling, but now the favourite resort of a -turtle-eating club, who go there every Tuesday to cook and swallow -turtle. The day was as bad as a party of pleasure could expect, (and -when were their expectations of bad weather disappointed?) nathless, my -father, at the Colonel's instigation, _persevered_, and went forth, -leaving me his card of invitation, which made me scream for half an -hour; the wording as follows:--"Sir, the Hoboken Turtle Club will meet -at the grove, for _spoon exercise_, on Tuesday, the 11th inst., by order -of the President." Mr. ---- and the Doctor paid us a visit of some -length. - - * * * * * - -When they were gone, read a canto in Dante, and sketched till four -o'clock. I wish I could make myself draw. I want to do every thing in -the world that can be done, and, by the by, that reminds me of my -German, which I must _persecute_. At four o'clock sent for a -hair-dresser, that I might in good time see that I am not made an object -on my first night. He was a Frenchman, and after listening profoundly to -my description of the head-dress I wanted, replied, as none but a -Frenchman could, "_Madame, la difficulte n'est pas d'executer votre -coiffure, mais de la bien concevoir_." However, he conceived and -executed sundry very smooth-looking bows, and, upon the whole, dressed -my hair very nicely, but charged a dollar for so doing; O nefarious! -D---- and I dined _tete-a-tete_; the evening was sulky--I was in -miserable spirits. - - * * * * * - -Sat working till my father came home, which he did at about half past -six. His account of his dinner was any thing but delightful; to be sure -he has no taste for rainy ruralities, and his feeling description of the -damp ground, damp trees, damp clothes, and damp atmosphere, gave me the -_rheumatiz_, letting alone that they had nothing to eat but turtle, and -that out of iron spoons.--"Ah, you vill go a pleasuring." - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -He had a cold before, and I fear this will make him very ill. He went -like wisdom to take a vapour bath directly. ---- came, and sat with us -till he returned. Had tea at eight, and embroidered till midnight. The -wind is rioting over the earth. I should like to see the Hudson now. The -black clouds, like masses of dark hair, are driven over the moon's pale -face; the red lights and fire engines are dancing up and down; the -streets, the church bells are all tolling--'tis sad and strange. - - - 'Tis all in vain, it may not last, - The sickly sunlight dies away, - And the thick clouds that veil the past - Roll darkly o'er my present day. - - Have I not flung them off, and striven - To seek some dawning hope in vain? - Have I not been for ever driven - Back to the bitter past again? - - What though a brighter sky bends o'er - Scenes where no former image greets me? - Though lost in paths untrod before, - Here, even here, pale Memory meets me. - - Oh life--oh blighted bloomless tree! - Why cling thy fibres to the earth? - Summer can bring no flower to thee, - Autumn no bearing, spring no birth. - - Bid me not strive, I'll strive no more, - To win from pain my joyless breast; - Sorrow has plough'd too deeply o'er - Life's Eden--let it take the rest! - - -_Wednesday, 12th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, heard my father say Hamlet. How -beautiful his whole conception of that part is! and yet it is but an -actor's conception too. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I am surprised at any body's ever questioning the real madness of -Hamlet: I know but one passage in the play which tells against it, and -there are a thousand that go to prove it. But leaving all isolated parts -out of the question, the entire colour of the character is the proper -ground from which to draw the right deduction. Gloomy, desponding, -ambitious, and disappointed in his ambition, full of sorrow for a dead -father, of shame for a living mother, of indignation for his ill-filled -inheritance, of impatience at his own dependent position; of a -thoughtful, doubtful, questioning spirit, looking with timid boldness -from the riddles of earth and life, to those of death and the mysterious -land beyond it; weary of existence upon its very threshold, and withheld -alone from self-destruction by religious awe, and that pervading -uncertainty of mind which stands on the brink, brooding over the unseen -may-be of another world; in love, moreover, and sad and dreamy in his -affection, as in every other sentiment; for there is not enough of -absolute passion in his love to make it a powerful and engrossing -interest; had it been such, the entireness and truth of Hamlet's -character would have been destroyed. 'Tis love indeed, but a pulseless -powerless love; gentle, refined, and tender, but without ardour or -energy; such are the various elements of Hamlet's character, at the very -beginning of the play: then see what follows. A frightful and unnatural -visitation from the dead; a horrible and sudden revelation of the murder -of the father for whom his soul is in mourning; thence burning hatred -and thirst of vengeance against his uncle; double loathing of his -mother's frailty; above all, that heaviest burden that a human creature -can have put upon him, an imperative duty calling for fulfilment, and a -want of resolution and activity to meet the demand; thence an unceasing -struggle between the sluggish nature and the upbraiding soul; an eternal -self-spurring and self-accusing: from which mental conflict, alone -sufficient to unseat a stronger mind, he finds relief in fits of -desponding musing, the exhaustion of overwrought powers. Then comes the -vigilant and circumspect guard he is forced to keep upon every word, -look, and action, lest they reveal his terrible secret; the suspicion -and mistrust of all that surround him, authorised by his knowledge of -his uncle's nature: his constant watchfulness over the spies that are -set to watch him; then come, in the course of events, Polonius's death, -the unintentional work of his own sword, the second apparition of his -father's ghost, his banishment to England, still haunted by his -treacherous friends, the miserable death of poor Ophelia, together with -the unexpected manner of his first hearing of it--if all these--the -man's own nature, sad and desponding--his educated nature (at a German -university), reasoning and metaphysical--and the nature he acquires from -the tutelage of events, bitter, dark, amazed, and uncertain; if these do -not make up as complete a madman as ever walked between heaven and -earth, I know not what does.[11] Wrote journal, and began to practise; -while doing so, ---- called; he said that he was accompanied by some -friends who wished to see me, and were at the door. I've heard of men's -shutting the door in the face of a dun, and going out the back way to -escape a bailiff--but how to get rid of such an attack as this I knew -not, and was therefore fain to beg the gentlemen would walk in, and -accordingly in they walked, four as fine-grown men as you would wish to -see on a summer's day. I was introduced to this regiment man by man, and -thought, as my Sheffield friend would say, "If _them_ be American -manners, defend me from them." They are traders, to be sure; but I never -heard of such wholesale introduction in my life. They sat a little -while, behaved very like Christians, and then departed. Captain ---- and ----- called,--the former to ask us to come down and see the Pacific, -poor old lady! When they were gone, practised, read a canto in Dante, -and translated verbatim a German fable, which kept me till dinner-time. -After dinner, walked out towards the Battery. ---- joined us. It was -between sunset and moonrise, and a lovelier light never lay upon sea, -earth, and sky. The horizon was bright orange colour, fading as it rose -to pale amber, which died away again into the modest violet colour of -twilight; this possessed the main sky wholly, except where two or three -masses of soft dark purple clouds floated, from behind which the stars -presently winked at us with their bright eyes. The river lay as still as -death, though there was a delicious fresh air: tiny boats were stealing -like shadows over the water; and every now and then against the orange -edge of the sky moved the masts of some schooner, whose hull was hidden -in the deep shadow thrown over it by the Jersey coast. A band was -playing in the Castle garden, and not a creature but ourselves seemed -abroad to see all this loveliness. Fashion makes the same fools all the -world over; and Broadway, with its crowded dusty pavement, and in the -full glare of day, is preferable, in the eyes of the New York -promenaders, to this cool and beautiful walk. Came home at about nine. -On the stairs met that odious Dr. ----, who came into the drawing-room -without asking or being asked, sat himself down, and called me "Miss -Fanny." I should like to have thrown my tea at him! ---- sent up his -name and presently followed it. I like to see any of our -fellow-passengers, however little such society would have pleased me -under any other circumstances; but necessity "makes us acquainted with -strange bedfellows;" and these my ship-mates will, to the end of time, -be my very good friends and boon companions. My father went to the Park -theatre, to see a man of the name of Hacket give an American -entertainment after Matthews's at-home fashion. I would not go, but -staid at home looking at the moon, which was glorious. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -To-night, as I stood watching that surpassing sunset, I would have given -it all--gold, and purple, and all--for a wreath of English fog stealing -over the water. - - -_Thursday, 13th._ - -Rose late: there was music in the night, which is always a strange -enchantment to me. After breakfast, wrote journal. At eleven, Captain ----- and ---- called for us; and my uncle having joined us, we proceeded -to the slip, as they call the places where the ships lie, and which -answer to our docks. Poor dear Pacific! I ran up her side with great -glee, and was introduced to Captain ----, her old commander; rushed down -into my berth, and was actually growing pathetic over the scene of my -sea-sorrows, when Mr. ---- clapped his hands close to me, and startled -me out of my reverie. Certainly my _adhesiveness_ must either be very -large, or uncommonly active just now, for my heart yearned towards the -old timbers with exceeding affection. The old ship was all drest out in -her best, and after sitting for some time in our cabin, we adjourned to -the larger one and lunched. Mr. ---- joined our party; and we had one or -two of our old ship songs, with their ridiculous burdens, with due -solemnity. Saw Mr. ----, but not dear M. ----. Visited the forecastle, -whence I have watched such glorious sunsets, such fair uprisings of the -starry sisterhood; now it looked upon the dusty quay and dirty dock -water, and the graceful sails were all stripped away, and the bare masts -and rigging shone in the intense sunlight. Poor good ship! I wish to -Heaven my feet were on her deck, and her prow turned to the east. I -would not care if the devil himself drove a hurricane at our backs. -Visited the fish and fruit markets:[12] it was too late in the day to -see either to advantage, but the latter reminded me of Aladdin's -treasure: the heaps of peaches, filling with their rich downy balls high -baskets ranged in endless rows, and painted of a bright vermilion -colour, which threw a ruddy ripeness over the fruit. The enormous -baskets (such as are used in England to carry linen) piled with melons, -the wild grapes, the pears, and apples, all so plenteous, so fragrant, -so beautiful in form and colour, leading the mind to the wondrous -bounteousness which has dowered this land with every natural -treasure--the whole enchanted me. ----, to my horror, bought a couple of -beautiful live wild-pigeons, which he carried home, head downwards, one -in each coat pocket. We parted from him at the Park gate, and proceeded -to Murray Street, to look at the furnished house my father wishes to -take. Upon enquiry, however, we found that it was already let. The day -was bright and beautiful, and my father proposed crossing the river to -Hoboken, the scene of the turtle-eating expedition. We did so -accordingly: himself, D----, Mr. ----, and I. Steamers go across every -five minutes, conveying passengers on foot and horseback, gigs, -carriages, carts, any thing and every thing. The day was lovely--the -broad bright river was gemmed with a thousand sails. Away to the right -it stretched between richly-wooded banks, placid and blue as a lake; to -the left, in the rocky doorway of the narrows, two or three ships stood -revealed against the cloudless sky. We reached the opposite coast, and -walked. It was nearly three miles from where we landed to the scene of -the "_spoon-exercise_." The whole of our route lay through a beautiful -wild plantation, or rather strip of wood, I should say, for 'tis -nature's own gardening which crowns the high bank of the river; through -which trellis-work of varied foliage we caught exquisite glimpses of the -glorious waters, the glittering city, and the opposite banks, decked out -in all the loveliest contrast of sunshine and shade. As we stood in our -leafy colonnade looking out upon this fair scene, the rippling water -made sweet music far down below us, striking with its tiny silver waves -the smooth sand and dark-coloured rocks from which they were ebbing. -Many of the trees were quite new to me, and delighted me with their -graceful forms and vivid foliage. The broad-leaved catalpa, and the -hickory with its bright coral-coloured berries. Many lovely lowly -things, too, grew by our pathside, which we gathered as we passed, to -bring away, but which withered in our hands ere we returned. Gorgeous -butterflies were zigzagging through the air, and for the first time I -longed to imprison them. In pursuing one, I ran into the midst of a slip -of clover land, but presently jumped out again, on hearing the swarms -of grasshoppers round me. Mr. ---- caught one; it was larger and thicker -than the English grasshopper, and of a dim mottled brown colour, like -the plumage of our common moth; but presently, on his opening his hand -to let it escape, it spread out a pair of dark purple wings, tipped with -pale primrose colour, and flew away a beautiful butterfly, such as the -one I had been seduced by. The slips of grass ground on the left of our -path were the only things that annoyed me: they were ragged, and rank, -and high,--they wanted mowing; and if they had been mowed soft, and -thick, and smooth, like an English lawn, how gloriously the lights and -shadows of this lovely sky would fall through the green roof of this -wood upon them! There is nothing in nature that, to my fancy, receives -light and shade with as rich an effect as sloping lawn land. Oh! -England, England! how I have seen your fresh emerald mantle deepen and -brighten in a summer's day. About a hundred yards from the place where -they dined on Tuesday, with no floor but the damp earth, no roof but the -dripping trees, stands a sort of _cafe_; a long, low, pretty -Italianish-looking building. The wood is cleared away in front of it, -and it commands a lovely view of the Hudson and its opposite shores: and -here they might have been sheltered and comfortable, but I suppose it -was not yet the appointed day of the month with them for eating their -dinner within walls; and, rather than infringe on an established rule, -they preferred catching a cold apiece. The place where they met in the -open air is extremely beautiful, except, of course, on a rainy day. The -shore is lower just here; and though there are trees enough to make -shade all round, and a thick screen of wood and young undergrowth -behind, the front is open to the river, which makes a bend just below, -forming a lake-like bay, round which again the coast rises into rocky -walls covered with rich foliage. Upon one of these promontories, in the -midst of a high open knoll, surrounded and overhung by higher grounds -covered with wood, stood the dwelling of the owner of the land, high -above the river, overlooking its downward course to the sea, perched -like an eagle's aerie, half-way between heaven and the level earth, but -beautifully encircled with waving forests, a shade in summer and a -shelter in winter. My father, D----, and my bonnet sat down in the -shade. Mr. ---- and I clambered upon some pieces of rock at the water's -edge, whence we looked out over river and land--a fair sight. "Oh!" I -exclaimed, pointing to the highlands on our left, through whose rich -foliage the rifted granite looked cold and grey, "what a place for a -scramble! there must be lovely walks there." "Ay," returned my -companion, "and a few rattle-snakes too."[13] We found D----, my father, -and my bonnet buffeting with a swarm of musquitoes; this is a great -nuisance. We turned our steps homeward. I picked up a nut enclosed like -a walnut in a green case. I opened it; it was not ripe; but in -construction exactly like a walnut, with the same bitter filmy skin over -the fruit, which is sweet and oily, and like a walnut in flavour also. -Mr. ---- told me it was called a marrow-nut. The tree on which it grew -had foliage of the acacia kind. We had to rush to meet the steam-boat, -which was just going across. The whole walk reminded me of that part of -Oatlands which, from its wild and tangled woodland, they call America. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -There must have been something surpassingly beautiful in our -surroundings, for even Mr. ----, into whose composition I suspect much -of the poetical element does not enter, began expatiating on the -happiness of the original possessors of these fair lands and waters, the -Indians--the Red Children of the soil, who followed the chase through -these lovely wildernesses, and drove their light canoes over these broad -streams--"great nature's happy commoners,"--till the predestined curse -came on them, till the white sails of the invaders threw their shadow -over these seas, and the work of extermination began in these wild -fastnesses of freedom. The destruction of the original inhabitants of a -country by its discoverers, always attended, as it is, with injustice -and cruelty, appears to me one of the most mysterious dispensations of -Providence. - -The chasing, enslaving, and destroying creatures, whose existence, -however inferior, is as justly theirs as that of the most refined -European is his; who for the most part, too, receive their enemies with -open-handed hospitality, until taught treachery by being betrayed, and -cruelty by fear; the driving the child of the soil off it, or, what is -fifty times worse, chaining him to till it; all the various forms of -desolation which have ever followed the landing of civilised men upon -uncivilised shores; in short, the theory and practice of discovery and -conquest, as recorded in all history, is a very singular and painful -subject of contemplation. - -'Tis true that cultivation and civilisation, the arts and sciences that -render life useful, the knowledge that ennobles, the adornments that -refine existence, above all, the religion that is the most sacred trust -and dear reward, all these, like pure sunshine and healthful airs -following a hurricane, succeed the devastation of the invader; but the -sufferings of those who are swept away are not the less; and though I -believe that good alone is God's result, it seems a fearful proof of the -evil wherewith this earth is cursed, that good cannot progress but over -such a path. No one beholding the prosperous and promising state of this -fine country, could wish it again untenanted of its enterprising and -industrious possessors; yet even while looking with admiration at all -that they have achieved, with expectation amounting to certainty to all -that they will yet accomplish, 'tis difficult to refrain from bestowing -some thoughts of pity and of sadness upon those whose homes have been -overturned, whose language has passed away, and whose feet are daily -driven further from those territories of which they were once sole and -sovereign lords. How strange it is to think, that less than one hundred -years ago, these shores, resounding with the voice of populous -cities,--these waters, laden with the commerce of the wide world,--were -silent wildernesses, where sprang and fell the forest leaves, where -ebbed and flowed the ocean tides from day to day, and from year to year, -in uninterrupted stillness; where the great sun, who looked on the vast -empires of the East, its mouldering kingdoms, its lordly palaces, its -ancient temples, its swarming cities, came and looked down upon the -still dwelling of utter loneliness, where nature sat enthroned in -everlasting beauty, undisturbed by the far off din of worlds "beyond the -flood."[14] - -Came home rather tired: my father asked Mr. ---- to dine with us, but he -could not. After dinner, sat working till ten o'clock, when ---- came to -take leave of us. He is going off to-morrow morning to Philadelphia, but -will be back for our Tuesday's dinner. The people here are all up and -about very early in the morning. I went out at half-past eight, and -found all Broadway abroad. - - -_Friday, 14th._ - -Forget all about it, except that I went about the town with Colonel -----. - - * * * * * - -went to see his Quaker wife, whom I liked very much. - - * * * * * - -Drove all about New-York, which more than ever reminded me of the towns -in France: passed the Bowery theatre, which is a handsome -finely-proportioned building, with a large brazen eagle plastered on the -pediment, for all the world like an insurance mark, or the sign of the -spread eagle: this is nefarious! We passed a pretty house, which Colonel ----- called an old mansion; mercy on me, him, and it! Old! I thought of -Warwick Castle, of Hatfield, of Chequers, of Hopwood--old! and there it -stood, with its white pillars and Italian-looking portico, for all the -world like one of our own cit's yesterday-grown boxes. Old, quotha! the -woods and waters and hills and skies alone are old here; the works of -men are in the very greenness and unmellowed imperfection of youth: -true, 'tis a youth full of vigorous sap and glorious promise; spring, -laden with blossoms, foretelling abundant and rich produce, and so let -them be proud of it. But the worst of it is, the Americans are not -satisfied with glorying in what they are,--which, considering the time -and opportunities they have had, is matter of glory quite -sufficient,--they are never happy without comparing this their sapling -to the giant oaks of the old world,--and what can one say to that? _Is_ -New-York like London? No, by my two troths it is not; but the oak was an -acorn once, and New York will surely, if the world holds together long -enough, become a lordly city, such as we know of beyond the sea. - -Went in the evening to see Wallack act the Brigand; it was his benefit, -and the house was very good. He is perfection in this sort of thing, yet -there were one or two blunders even in his melo-dramatic acting of this -piece; however, he looks very like the thing, and it is very nice to -see--once. - - -_Saturday, 15th._ - -Sat stitching all the blessed day. So we are to go to _Philadelphia_ -before _Boston_. I'm sorry. The H----s will be disappointed, and I shall -get no riding, _che seccatura!_ At five dressed, and went to the ----, -where we were to dine. This is one of the first houses here, so I -conclude that I am to consider what I see as a tolerable sample of the -ways and manners of being, doing, and suffering of the _best society_ in -New York. There were about twenty people; the women were in a sort of -French demi-toilette, with bare necks, and long sleeves, heads frizzed -out after the very last _Petit Courier_, and thread net handkerchiefs -and capes; the whole of which, to my English eye, appeared a strange -marrying of incongruities. The younger daughter of our host is -beautiful; a young and brilliant likeness of Ellen Tree, with more -refinement, and a smile that was, not to say a ray, but a whole focus of -sun rays, a perfect blaze of light; she was much taken up with a youth, -to whom, my neighbour at dinner informed me, she was engaged. - - * * * * * - -The women here, like those of most warm climates, ripen very early, and -decay proportionably soon. They are, generally speaking, pretty, with -good complexions, and an air of freshness and brilliancy, but this, I am -told, is very evanescent; and whereas, in England, a woman is in the -full bloom of health and beauty from twenty to five-and-thirty, here -they scarcely reach the first period without being faded and looking -old.[15] They marry very young, and this is another reason why age comes -prematurely upon them. There was a fair young thing at dinner to-day who -did not look above seventeen, and she was a wife. As for their figures, -like those of French women, they are too well dressed for one to judge -exactly what they are really like: they are, for the most part, short -and slight, with remarkably pretty feet and ankles; but there's too much -pelerine and petticoat, and "de quoi" of every sort, to guess any thing -more. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -There was a Mr. ----, the Magnus Apollo of New York, who is a musical -genius: sings as well as any gentleman need sing, pronounces Italian -well, and accompanies himself without false chords; all which renders -him _the_ man round whom (as round H----, G----, Lord C----, and that -pretty Lord O----, in our own country) the women listen and languish. He -sang the Phantom Bark: the last time I heard it was from the lips of -Moore, with two of the loveliest faces in all the world hanging over -him, Mrs. N----, and Mrs. B----. By the by, the man who sat next me at -dinner was asking me all manner of questions about Mrs. N----: among -others, whether she was "as pale as a poetess ought to be?" Oh! how I -wish Corinne had but heard that herself! what a deal of funny scorn -would have looked beautiful on her rich brown cheek and brilliant lips. -The dinner was plenteous, and tolerably well dressed, but ill served: -there were not half servants enough, and we had neither water-glasses -nor finger-glasses. Now, though I don't eat with my fingers (except -peaches, whereat I think the aborigines, who were paring theirs like so -many potatoes, seemed rather amazed), yet do I hold a finger-glass at -the conclusion of my dinner a requisite to comfort. After dinner we had -coffee, but no tea, whereat my English taste was in high dudgeon. The -gentlemen did not sit long, and when they joined us, Mr. ----, as I said -before, uttered sweet sounds. By the by, I was not a little amused at -Mrs. ---- asking me whether I had heard of his singing, or their musical -soirees, and seeming all but surprised that I had no revelations of -either across the Atlantic. Mercy on me! what fools people are all over -the world! The worst is, they are all fools of the same sort, and there -is no profit whatever in travelling. Mr. B----, who is an Englishman, -happened to ask me if I knew Captain ----, whereupon we immediately -struck up a conversation, and talked over English folks and doings -together, to my entire satisfaction. The ---- were there: he is brother -to that wondrous ruler of the spirits whom I did so dislike in London, -and his lady is a daughter of Lord ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I was very glad to come home. I sang to them two or three things, but -the piano was pitched too high for my voice; by the by, in that large, -lofty, fine room, they had a tiny, old-fashioned, becurtained cabinet -piano stuck right against the wall, unto which the singer's face was -turned, and into which his voice was absorbed. We had hardly regained -our inn and uncloaked, when there came a tap at the door, and in walked -Mr. ---- to ask me if we would not join them (himself and the ----) at -supper. He said that, besides five being a great deal too early to dine, -he had not half dinner enough; and then began the regular English -quizzing of every thing and every body we had left behind. Oh dear, oh -dear! how thoroughly English it was, and how it reminded me of H----; of -course, we did not accept their invitation, but it furnished me matter -of amusement. How we English folks do cling to our own habits, our own -views, our own things, our own people; how, in spite of all our -wanderings and scatterings over the whole face of the earth, like so -many Jews, we never lose our distinct and national individuality; nor -fail to lay hold of one another's skirts, to laugh at and depreciate all -that differs from that country, which we delight in forsaking for any -and all others. - - -_Sunday, 16th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, walked to church with the C----s and Mr. -B----. They went to Grace Church for the music; we stopped short to go -to the ---- pew in the Episcopal church. The pew was crammed, I am sorry -to say, owing to our being there, which they had pressed so earnestly, -that we thought ourselves bound to accept the invitation. The sermon was -tolerably good; better than the average sermons one hears in London, and -sufficiently well delivered. After church, I---- called, also two men of -the name of M----, large men, very! also Mr. B---- and Mr. C----: when -they were all gone, wrote journal, and began a letter to J----. Dined at -five; after dinner, went on with my letter to J----, and wrote an -immense one to dear H----, which kept me pen in hand till past twelve. A -tremendous thunderstorm came on, which lasted from nine o'clock till -past two in the morning: I never saw but one such in my life; and that -was our memorable Weybridge storm, which only exceeded this in the -circumstance of my having seen a thunderbolt fall during that paroxysm -of the elements. But this was very glorious, awful, beautiful, and -tremendous. The lightning played without the intermission of a second, -in wide sheets of purple glaring flame, that trembled over the earth for -nearly two or three seconds at a time; making the whole world, river, -sky, trees, and buildings, look like a ghostly universe cut out in -chalk. The light over the water, which absolutely illumined the shore on -the other side with the broad glare of full day, was of a magnificent -purple colour. The night was pitchy dark, too; so that between each of -these ghastly smiles of the devil, the various pale steeples and -buildings, which seemed at every moment to leap from nothing into -existence, after standing out in fearful relief against a back-ground of -fire, were hidden like so many dreams in deep and total darkness. God's -music rolled along the heavens; the forked lightnings now dived from the -clouds into the very bosom of the city, now ran like tangled threads of -fire all round the blazing sky. "The big bright rain came dancing to the -earth," the wind clapped its huge wings, and swept through the dazzling -glare; and as I stood, with eyes half veiled (for the light was too -intense even upon the ground to be looked at with unshaded eyes), gazing -at this fierce holiday of the elements--at the mad lightning--at -the brilliant shower, through which the flashes shone like -daylight--listening to the huge thunder, as its voice resounded, and its -heavy feet rebounded along the clouds--and the swift spirit-like wind -rushing triumphantly along, uttering its wild paean over the amazed -earth;--I felt more intensely than I ever did before the wondrous might -of these God's powerful and beautiful creatures; the wondrous might, -majesty, and awfulness of him their Lord, beneath whose footstool they -lie chained, by his great goodness made the ministers of good to this -our lowly dwelling-place. I did not go to bed till two; the storm -continued to rage long after that. - - -_Monday, 17th._ - -Rose at eight. At twelve, went to rehearsal. The weather is intolerable; -I am in a state of perpetual fusion. The theatre is the coolest place I -have yet been in, I mean at rehearsal; when the front is empty, and the -doors open, and the stage is so dark that we are obliged to rehearse by -candlelight. That washed-out man, who failed in London when he acted -Romeo with me, is to be my Fazio; let us hope he will know some of his -words to-morrow night, for he is at present most innocent of any such -knowledge. After rehearsal, walked into a shop to buy some gauze: the -shopmen called me by my name, entered into conversation with us; and one -of them, after showing me a variety of things which I did not want, -said, that they were most anxious to show me every attention, and render -my stay in this country agreeable. A Christian, I suppose, would have -met these benevolent advances with an infinitude of thankfulness, and an -outpouring of grateful pleasure; but for my own part, though I had the -grace to smile and say, "Thank you," I longed to add, "but be so good as -to measure your ribands, and hold your tongue." I have no idea of -holding parley with clerks behind a counter, still less of their doing -so with me. So much for my first impression of the courtesy of this land -of liberty. I should have been much better pleased if they had called me -"Ma'am," which they did not. We dined at three. V---- and Colonel ---- -called after dinner. At seven, went to the theatre. It was my dear -father's first appearance in this new world, and my heart ached with -anxiety. The weather was intensely hot, yet the theatre was crowded: -when he came on, they gave him what every body here calls an immense -reception; but they should see our London audience get up, and wave -hats and handkerchiefs, and shout welcome as they do to us. The tears -were in my eyes, and all I could say was, "They might as well get up, I -think." My father looked well, and acted beyond all praise; but oh, what -a fine and delicate piece of work this is! There is not one sentence, -line, or word of this part which my father has not sifted grain by -grain; there is not one scene or passage to which he does not give its -fullest and most entire substance, together with a variety that relieves -the intense study of the whole with wonderful effect. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I think that it is impossible to conceive Hamlet more truly, or execute -it more exquisitely, than he does. The refinement, the tenderness, the -grace, dignity, and princely courtesy with which he invests it from -beginning to end, are most lovely; and some of the slighter passages, -which, like fine tints to the incapable eyes of blindness, must always -pass unnoticed, and, of course, utterly uncomprehended, by the -discriminating public, enchanted me. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -His voice was weak, from nervousness and the intolerable heat of the -weather, and he was not well dressed, which was a pity. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The play was well got up, and went off very well. The ---- were there, a -regiment of them; also Colonel ---- and Captain ----. After the play, -came home to supper. - - -_Tuesday, 18th._ - -Rose at eight. At eleven, went to rehearsal. Mr. Keppel is just as -nervous and as imperfect as ever: what on earth will he, or shall I, do -to-night! Came home, got things out for the theatre, and sat like any -stroller stitching for dear life at my head-dress. Mr. H---- and his -nephew called: the latter asked me if I was at all apprehensive? No, by -my troth, I am not; and that not because I feel sure of success, for I -think it very probable the Yankees may like to show their critical -judgment and independence by damning me; but because, thank God, I do -not care whether they do or not: the whole thing is too loathsome to me, -for either failure or success to affect me in the least, and therefore -I feel neither nervous nor anxious about it. We dined at three: after -dinner, J---- came; he sat some time. When he was gone, I came into the -drawing-room, and found a man sitting with my father, who presented him -to me by some inaudible name. I sat down, and the gentleman pursued his -conversation as follows:--"When Clara Fisher came over, Barry wrote to -me about her, and I wrote him back word: 'My dear fellow, if your bella -donna is such as you describe, why, we'll see what we can do; we will -take her by the hand.'" This was enough for me. I jumped up, and ran out -of the room; because a newspaper writer is my aversion. At half-past -six, went to the theatre. They acted the farce of Popping the Question -first, in order, I suppose, to get the people to their places before the -play began. Poor Mr. Keppel was gasping for breath; he moved my -compassion infinitely; I consoled and comforted him all I could, gave -him some of my lemonade to swallow, for he was choking with fright; sat -myself down with my back to the audience, and up went the curtain. Owing -to the position in which I was sitting, and my plain dress, most -unheroine-like in its make and colour, the people did not know me, and -would not have known me for some time, if that stupid man had done as I -kept bidding him, gone on; but instead of doing so, he stood stock -still, looked at me, and then at the audience, whereupon the latter -caught an inkling of the truth, and gave me such a reception as I get in -Covent Garden theatre every time I act a new part. The house was very -full; all the ---- were there, and Colonel ----. Mr. Keppel was -frightened to death, and in the very second speech was quite out: it was -in vain that I prompted him; he was too nervous to take the word, and -made a complete mess of it. This happened more than once in the first -scene; and at the end of the first act, as I left the stage, I said to -D----, "It's all up with me, I can't do any thing now;" for, having to -prompt my Fazio, frightened by his fright, annoyed by his forgetting his -crossings and positions, utterly unable to work myself into any thing -like excitement, I thought the whole thing must necessarily go to -pieces. However, once rid of my encumbrance, which I am at the end of -the second act, I began to move a little more freely, gathered up my -strength, and set to work comfortably by myself; whereupon, the people -applauded, I warmed (warmed, quotha! the air was steam), and got through -very satisfactorily, at least so it seems. My dresses were very -beautiful; but oh, but oh, the musquitoes had made dreadful havoc with -my arms, which were covered with hills as large and red as Vesuvius in -an eruption. After the play, my father introduced me to Mr. B----, Lord -S----'s brother, who was behind the scenes; his brother's place, by the -by. Came home, supped. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came to bed at half past twelve; weary, and half melted away. The ants -swarm on the floors, on the tables, in the beds, about one's clothes; -the plagues of Egypt were a joke to them: horrible! it makes one's life -absolutely burdensome, to have creatures creeping about one, and all -over one, night and day, this fashion; to say nothing of those -cantankerous stinging things, the musquitoes. - - -_Wednesday, 19th._ - -D---- did not call me till ten o'clock, whereat I was in furious -dudgeon. Got up, breakfasted, and off to rehearsal; Romeo and Juliet. -Mr. Keppel has been dismissed, poor man! I'm sorry for him: my father is -to play Romeo with me, I'm sorrier still for that. After rehearsal, came -home, dawdled about my room: Mr. ---- called: he is particularly fond of -music. My father asked him to try the piano, which he accordingly did, -and was playing most delightfully, when in walked Mr. ----, and by and -by Colonel ----, with his honour the Recorder, and General ---- of the -militia. I amused myself with looking over some exquisite brown silk -stockings, wherewith I mean to match my gown. When they were all gone, -dawdled about till time to dress. So poor dear H---- can't come from -Philadelphia for our dinner--dear, I'm quite sorry! At five our party -assembled; we were but thin in numbers, and the half empty table, -together with the old ship faces, made it look, as some one observed, as -if it was blowing hard. Our dinner was neither good nor well served, the -wine not half iced. At the end of it, my father gave Captain ---- his -claret-jug, wherewith that worthy seemed much satisfied. - - * * * * * - -We left the table soon; came and wrote journal. When the gentlemen -joined us, they were all more or less "how com'd you so indeed?" Mr. ----- and Mr. ---- particularly. They put me down to the piano, and once -or twice I thought I must have screamed. On one side _vibrated_ dear -Mr. ----, threatening my new gown with a cup of coffee, which he held at -an awful angle from the horizontal line; singing with every body who -opened their lips, and uttering such dreadfully discordant little -squeals and squeaks, that I thought I should have died of suppressed -laughter. On the other side, rather _concerned_, but not quite so much -so, stood the Irishman; who, though warbling a little out of tune, and -flourishing somewhat luxuriantly, still retained enough of his right -senses to discriminate between Mr. ----'s yelps and singing, properly so -called; and accordingly pished!--and pshawed!--and oh Lorded!--and good -heavened! away,-- staring at the perpetrator with indignant horror -through his spectacles, while his terrified wig stood on end in every -direction, each particular hair appearing vehemently possessed with the -centrifugal force. They all went away in good time, and we came to bed. - - - ----To bed--to sleep-- - To sleep!--perchance to be bitten! ay--there's the scratch: - And in that sleep of ours what bugs may come, - Must give us pause. - - -_Thursday, 20th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, went to rehearse Romeo and Juliet. Poor -Mr. Keppel is fairly laid on the shelf; I'm sorry for him! What a funny -passion he had, by the by, for going down upon his knees. In Fazio, at -the end of the judgment scene, when I was upon mine, down he went upon -his, making the most absurd devout-looking _vis-a-vis_ I ever beheld: in -the last scene, too, when he ought to have been going off to execution, -down he went again upon his knees, and no power on earth could get him -up again, for Lord knows how long. Poor fellow, he bothered me a good -deal, yet I'm sincerely sorry for him. At the end of our rehearsal, came -home. The weather is sunny, sultry, scorching, suffocating. Ah! Mr. ---- -called. This is an indifferent imitation of bad fine manners amongst us; -"he speaks small, too, like a gentleman." He sat for a long time, -talking over the opera, and all the prima donnas in the world. When he -was gone, Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- called. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The latter asked us to dinner to-morrow, to meet Dr. ----, who, poor -man, dares neither go to the play nor call upon us, so strict are the -good people here about the behaviour of their pastors and masters. By -the by, Essex called this morning to fetch away the Captain's -claret-jug: he asked my father for an order; adding, with some -hesitation, "It must be for the gallery, if you please, sir, for people -of colour are not allowed to go to the pit, or any other part of the -house." I believe I turned black myself, I was so indignant. Here's -aristocracy with a vengeance! ---- called with Forrest, the American -actor. Mr. Forrest has rather a fine face, I think. We dined at three: -after dinner, wrote journal, played on the piano, and frittered away my -time till half-past six. Went to the theatre: the house was very full, -and dreadfully hot. My father acted Romeo beautifully: I looked very -nice, and the people applauded my _gown_ abundantly. At the end of the -play I was half dead with heat and fatigue: came home and supped, lay -down on the floor in absolute meltiness away, and then came to bed. - - -_Friday, 21st._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast went to rehearsal. The School for -Scandal; Sir Peter, I see, keeps his effects to himself; what a bore -this is, to be sure! Got out things for the theatre. While eating my -lunch, Mr. ---- and his cousin, a Mr. ---- (one of the cleverest lawyers -here), called. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -They were talking of Mr. Keppel. By the by, of that gentleman; Mr. -Simpson sent me this morning, for my decision, a letter from Mr. Keppel, -soliciting another trial, and urging the hardness of his case, in being -condemned upon a part which he had had no time to study. My own opinion -of poor Mr. Keppel is, that no power on earth or in heaven can make him -act decently; however, of course, I did not object to his trying again; -he did not swamp me the first night, so I don't suppose he will the -fifth. We dined at five. Just before dinner, received a most delicious -bouquet, which gladdened my very heart with its sweet smell and lovely -colours: some of the flowers were strangers to me. After dinner, Colonel ----- called, and began pulling out heaps of newspapers, and telling us a -long story about Mr. Keppel, who, it seems, has been writing to the -papers, to convince them and the public that he is a good actor; at the -same time throwing out sundry hints, which seem aimed our way, of -injustice, oppression, hard usage, and the rest on't. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Mr. ---- called to offer to ride with me; when, however, the question of -a horse was canvassed, he knew of none, and Colonel ----'s whole -regiment of "beautiful ladies' horses" had also neither a local -habitation nor a name. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -When they were gone, went to the theatre; the house was very good, the -play the School for Scandal. I played pretty fairly, and looked very -nice. The people were stupid to a degree, to be sure; poor things! it -was very hot. Indeed, I scarce understand how they should be amused with -the School for Scandal; for though the dramatic situations are so -exquisite, yet the wit is far above the generality of even our own -audiences, and the tone and manners altogether are so thoroughly -English, that I should think it must be for the most part -incomprehensible to the good people here. After the play, came home. -Colonel S---- supped with us, and renewed the subject of Mr. Keppel and -the theatre. My father happened to say, referring to a passage in that -worthy's letter to the public, "I shall certainly inquire of Mr. Keppel -why he has so used my name;" to which Colonel S---- replied, as usual, -"No, now let me advise, let me beg you, Mr. Kemble, just to remain -quiet, and leave all this to me." This was too much for mortal woman to -bear. I immediately said, "Not at all: it is my father's affair, if any -body's; and he alone has the right to demand any explanation, or make -any observation on the subject; and were I he, I certainly should do so, -and that forthwith." I could hold no longer. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came to bed in tremendous dudgeon. The few _critiques_ that I have seen -upon our acting have been, upon the whole, laudatory. One was sent to me -from a paper called The Mirror, which pleased me very much; not because -the praise in it was excessive, and far beyond my deserts, but that it -was written with great taste and feeling, and was evidently not the -produce of a common press-hack. There appeared to me in all the others -the true provincial dread of praising too much, and being _led_ into -approbation by previous opinions; a sort of jealousy of critical -freedom, which, together with the established _nil admirari_ of the -press, seems to keep them in a constant dread of being thought -enthusiastic. They need not be afraid: enthusiasm may belong to such -analyses as Schlegel's or Channing's, but has nothing in common with the -paragraphs of a newspaper; the inditers of which, in my poor judgment, -seldom go beyond the very threshold of criticism, _i. e._ the discovery -of faults. I am infinitely amused at the extreme curiosity which appears -to me to be the besetting sin of the people here. A gentleman whom you -know (as for instance, in my case,) very slightly, will sit down by your -table during a morning visit, turn over every article upon it, look at -the cards of the various people who have called upon you, ask -half-a-dozen questions about each of them, as many about your own -private concerns; and all this, as though it were a matter of course -that you should answer him, which I feel greatly inclined occasionally -not to do. - - -_Saturday, 22d._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, dawdled about till near one o'clock: got -into a hackney coach[16] with D----, and returned all manner of cards. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Went into a shop to order a pair of shoes. The shopkeepers in this -place, with whom I have hitherto had to deal, are either condescendingly -familiar, or insolently indifferent in their manner. Your washer woman -sits down before you, while you are _standing_ speaking to her; and a -shop-boy bringing things for your inspection not only sits down, but -keeps his hat on in your drawing-room. The worthy man to whom I went for -my shoes was so amazingly ungracious, that at first I thought I would -go out of the shop; but recollecting that I should probably only go -farther and fare worse, I gulped, sat down, and was measured. All this -is bad: it has its origin in a vulgar misapprehension, which confounds -ill-breeding with independence, and leads people to fancy that they -elevate themselves above their condition by discharging its duties and -obligations discourteously.[17] - - * * * * * - -Came home: wrote journal, practised, dressed for dinner. At five, went -into our neighbour's: Dr. ----, the rector of Grace Church, was the only -stranger. I liked him extremely: he sat by me at dinner, and I thought -his conversation sufficiently clever, with an abundance of goodness, and -liberal benevolent feeling shining through it. We retired to our room, -where Mrs. ---- made me laugh extremely with sundry passages of her -American experiences. I was particularly amused with her account of -their stopping, after a long day's journey, at an inn somewhere, when -the hostess, who remained in the room the whole time, addressed her as -follows: "D'ye play?" pointing to an open piano-forte. Mrs. ---- replied -that she did so sometimes; whereupon the free-and-easy landlady ordered -candles, and added, "Come, sit down and give us a tune, then;" to which -courteous and becoming invitation Mrs. ---- replied by taking up her -candle, and walking out of the room. The pendant to this is Mr. ----'s -story. He sent a die of his crest to a manufacturer, to have it put upon -his gig harness. The man sent home the harness, when it was finished, -but without the die; after sending for which sundry times, Mr. ---- -called to enquire after it himself, when the reply was:-- - -"Lord! why I didn't know you wanted it." - -"I tell you, I wish to have it back." - -"Oh, pooh! you can't want it much, now--do you?" - -"I tell you, sir, I desire to have the die back immediately." - -"Ah well, come now, what'll you take for it?" - -"D'ye think I mean to sell my crest? why you might as well ask me to -sell my name." - -"Why, you see, a good many folks have seen it, and want to have it on -their harness, as it's a pretty looking concern enough." - -So much for their ideas of a crest. This though, by the by, happened -some years ago. - -After the gentlemen joined us, my father made me sing to them, which I -did with rather a bad grace, as I don't think any body wished to hear me -but himself. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Dr. ---- is perfectly enchanting. They left us at about eleven. Came to -bed. - - -_Sunday, 23d._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, went to church with D----. There is no -such thing, I perceive, as a pew-opener; so, after standing sufficiently -long in the middle of the church, we established ourselves very -comfortably in a pew, where we remained unmolested. The day was most -lovely, and my eyes were constantly attracted to the church windows, -through which the magnificent willows of the burial-ground looked like -golden green fountains rising into the sky. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The singing in church was excellent, and Dr. ----'s sermon very good, -too: he wants sternness; but that is my particular fancy about a -clergyman, and by most people would be accounted no want. It was not -sacrament Sunday; D---- was disappointed; and I mistaken. Mr. ---- -walked home with us. After church, wrote journal. ---- called, and sat -with us during dinner, telling us stories of the flogging of slaves, as -he himself had witnessed it in the south, that forced the colour into my -face, the tears into my eyes, and strained every muscle in my body with -positive rage and indignation: he made me perfectly sick with it. When -he was gone, my father went to Colonel ----'s. I played all through Mr. -----'s edition of Cinderella, and then wrote three long letters, which -kept me up till nearly one o'clock. Oh, bugs, fleas, flies, ants, and -musquitoes, great is the misery you inflict upon me! I sit slapping my -own face all day, and lie thumping my pillow all night: 'tis a perfect -nuisance to be devoured of creatures _before_ one's in the ground; it -isn't fair. Wrote to Mr. ----, to ask if he would ride with me on -Tuesday. I am dying to be on horseback again. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Monday, 24th._ - -Rose at eight: went and took a bath. After breakfast, went to rehearsal: -Venice Preserved, with Mr. Keppel, who did not appear to me to know the -words even, and seemed perfectly bewildered at being asked to do the -common business of the piece. "Mercy on me! what will he do to-night?" -thought I. Came home and got things ready for the theatre. Received a -visit from poor Mr. ----, who has got the lumbago, as Sir Peter would -say, "on purpose," I believe, to prevent my riding out to-morrow. Dined -at three: after dinner, played and sang through Cinderella; wrote -journal: at six, went to the theatre. My gown was horribly ill-plaited, -and I looked like a blue bag. The house was very full, and they received -Mr. K---- with acclamations and shouts of applause. When I went on, I -was all but tumbling down at the sight of my Jaffier, who looked like -the apothecary in Romeo and Juliet, with the addition of some devilish -red slashes along his thighs and arms. The first scene passed well and -so: but, oh, the next, and the next, and the next to that! Whenever he -was not glued to my side (and that was seldom), he stood three yards -behind me; he did nothing but seize my hand, and grapple to it so hard, -that unless I had knocked him down (which I felt much inclined to try), -I could not disengage myself. In the senate scene, when I was entreating -for mercy, and _struggling_, as Otway has it, for my life, he was -prancing round the stage in every direction, flourishing his dagger in -the air: I wish to Heaven I had got up and run away: it would but have -been natural, and have served him extremely right. In the parting -scene,--oh what a scene it was!--instead of going away from me when he -said "farewell for ever," he stuck to my skirts, though in the same -breath that I adjured him, in the words of my part, not to leave me, I -added, aside, "Get away from me, oh _do_!" When I exclaimed, "Not one -kiss at parting," he kept embracing and kissing me like mad: and when I -ought to have been pursuing him, and calling after him, "Leave thy -dagger with me," he hung himself up against the wing, and remained -dangling there for five minutes. I was half crazy! and the good people -sat and swallowed it all: they deserved it, by my troth, they did. I -prompted him constantly; and once, after struggling in vain to free -myself from him, was obliged, in the middle of my part, to exclaim, "You -hurt me dreadfully, Mr. Keppel!" He clung to me, cramped me, crumpled -me,--dreadful! I never experienced any thing like this before, and made -up my mind that I never would again. I played of course like a wretch, -finished my part as well as I could, and, as soon as the play was over, -went to my father and Mr. Simpson, and declared to them both my -determination not to go upon the stage again, with that gentleman for a -hero. Three trials are as many as, in reason, any body can demand, and, -come what come may, _I_ will not be subjected to this sort of experiment -again. At the end of the play, the clever New Yorkians actually called -for Mr. Keppel! and this most worthless clapping of hands, most -worthlessly bestowed upon such a worthless object, is what, by the -nature of my craft, I am bound to care for; I spit at it from the bottom -of my soul! Talking of applause, the man who acted Bedamar to-night -thought fit to be two hours dragging me off the stage; in consequence of -which I had to scream, "Jaffier, Jaffier," till I thought I should have -broken a blood-vessel. On my remonstrating with him upon this, he said, -"Well, you are rewarded, listen:" the people were clapping and shouting -vehemently: this is the whole history of acting and actors. We came home -tired, and thoroughly disgusted, and found no supper. The cooks, who do -not live in the house, but come and do their work, and depart home -whenever it suits their convenience, had not thought proper to stay to -prepare any supper for us: so we had to wait for the readiest things -that could be procured out of doors for us--this was pleasant[18]--very! -At last appeared a cold boiled fowl, and some monstrous oysters, that -looked for all the world like an antediluvian race of oysters, "for in -those days there were giants." Six mouthfuls each: they were -well-flavoured; but their size displeased my eye, and I swallowed but -one, and came to bed. - - -_Friday, 28th._ - -A letter from England, the first from dear ----. D---- brought it me -while I was dressing, and oh, how welcome, how welcome it was! - - * * * * * - -After breakfast went to rehearsal: Much Ado about Nothing. Came home, -wrote journal, put out things for the theatre, dined at three. After -dinner, ---- called. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Mr. ---- called, and sat with us till six o'clock. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I constantly sit thunderstruck at the amazing number of unceremonious -questions which people here think fit to ask one, and, moreover, expect -one to answer. Went to the theatre; the house was not good. The Italians -were expected to sing for the first time; they did not, however, but in -the mean time thinned our house. - -I would give the world to see Mr. ---- directing the public taste, by an -oeillade, and leading the public approbation, by a gracious tapping of -his supreme hand upon his ineffable snuff-box; he reminds me of high -life below stairs. The play went off very well; I played well, and my -dresses looked beautiful; my father acted to perfection. I never saw any -thing so gallant, gay, so like a gentlemen, so full of brilliant, -buoyant, refined spirit; he looked admirably, too. Mr. ---- was behind -the scenes; speaking to me of my father's appearance in Pierre, he said -he reminded him of Lord ----. I could not forbear asking him how long he -had been away from England? he replied, four years. Truly, four years -will furnish him matter of astonishment when he returns. Swallow Street -is grown into a line of palaces; the Strand is a broad magnificent -avenue, where all the wealth of the world seems gathered together; and -Lord ----, the "observed of all observers," is become a red-faced fat -old man. "Och, Time! can't ye be aisy now!" - - -_Sunday, 30th._ - -Rose late, did not go to church; sat writing letters all the morning. -Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- called. What a character that Mr. ---- is! Colonel ----- called, and wanted to take my father out; but we were all inditing -espistles to go to-morrow by the dear old Pacific. At three o'clock, -went to church with Mrs. ---- and Mr. ----. I like Dr. ---- most -extremely. His mild, benevolent, Christian view of the duties and -blessings of life is very delightful; and the sound practical doctrine -he preaches "good for edification." - - * * * * * - -It poured with rain, but they sent a coach for us from the inn; came -home, dressed for dinner. D---- and I dined _tete-a-tete_. After dinner, -sat writing letters for Mr. ----'s bag till ten o'clock: came to my own -room, undressed, and began a volume to dear ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I did not get to bed till three o'clock: in spite of all which I am as -fat as an overstuffed pincushion. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Select specimens of American pronunciation:-- - - - vaggaries, vagaries. - ad infinnitum, ad infinitum. - vitupperate, vituperate. - - -_Monday, October 1st._ - -While I was out, Captain ---- called for our letters. Saw Mr. ----, and -bade him good-by: they are going away to-day to Havre, to Europe; I wish -I was a nail in one of their trunks. After breakfast, went to rehearse -King John: what a lovely mess they will make of it, to be sure! When my -sorrows were ended, my father brought me home: found a most lovely -nosegay from Mr. ---- awaiting me. Bless it! how sweet it smelt, and how -pretty it looked. Spent an hour delightfully in putting it into water. -Got things ready for to-night, practised till dinner, and wrote journal. -My father received a letter to-day, informing him that a cabal was -forming by the friends of Miss Vincent and Miss Clifton (native talent!) -to hiss us off the New York stage, if possible; if not, to send people -in every night to create a disturbance during our best scenes: the -letter is anonymous, and therefore little deserving of attention. After -dinner, practised till time to go to the theatre. The house was very -full; but what a cast! what a play! what botchers! what butchers! In his -very first scene, the most christian king stuck fast; and there he -stood, shifting his truncheon from hand to hand, rolling his eyes, -gasping for breath, and struggling for words, like a man in the -night-mare. I thought of Hamlet--"Leave thy damnable faces"--and was -obliged to turn away. In the scene before Angiers, when the French and -English heralds summon the citizens to the walls, the Frenchman applied -his instrument to his mouth, uplifted his chest, distended his cheeks, -and appeared to blow furiously; not a sound! he dropped his arm, and -looked off the stage in discomfiture and indignation, when the perverse -trumpet set up a blast fit to waken the dead,--the audience roared: it -reminded me of the harp in the old ballad, that "began to play alone." -Chatillon, on his return from England, begged to assure us that with -King John was come the mother queen, an _Anty_ stirring him to blood and -war. When Cardinal Pandulph came on, the people set up a shout, as -usual: he was dreadfully terrified, poor thing; and all the time he -spoke kept giving little nervous twitches to his sacred petticoat, in a -fashion that was enough to make one die of laughter. He was as -obstinate, too, in his bewilderment as a stuttering man in his -incoherency; for once, when he stuck fast, having twitched his skirts, -and thumped his breast in vain for some time, I thought it best, having -to speak next, to go on; when, lo and behold! in the middle of my -speech, the "scarlet sin" recovers his memory, and shouts forth the end -of his own, to the utter confusion of my august self and the audience. I -thought they never would have got through my last scene: king gazed at -cardinal, and cardinal gazed at king; king nodded and winked at the -prompter, spread out his hands, and remained with his mouth open: -cardinal nodded and winked at the prompter, crossed his hands on his -breast, and remained with his mouth open; neither of them uttering a -syllable! What a scene! O, what a glorious scene! Came home as soon as -my part was over. Supped, and sat up for my father. Heard his account of -the end, and came to bed.[19] - - -_Wednesday, 3d._ - -Rose late. After breakfast, went to rehearsal: what a mess I do make of -Bizarre! Ellen Tree and Mrs. Chatterly were angels to what I shall be, -yet I remember thinking them both bad enough. After all, if people -generally did but know the difficulty of doing well, they would be less -damnatory upon those who do ill. It is not easy to act well. After -rehearsal, went to Stewart's with D----. As we were proceeding up -Broadway to Bonfanti's,[20] I saw a man in the strangest attitude -imaginable, absolutely setting at us: presently he pounced, and who -should it be but ----. He came into Bonfanti's with us, and afterwards -insisted on escorting us to our various destinations; not, however, -without manifold and deep lamentations on his slovenly appearance and -dirty gloves. The latter, however, he managed to exchange, _chemin -faisant_, for a pair of new ones, which he extracted from his pocket and -drew on, without letting go our arms, which he squeezed most -unmercifully during the operation. We went through a part of the town -which I had never seen before. The shops have all a strange fair-like -appearance, and exhibit a spectacle of heterogeneous disorder, which -greatly amazes the eye of a Londoner. The comparative infancy in which -most of the adornments of life are yet in this country, renders it -impossible for the number of distinct trades to exist that do among us, -where the population is so much denser, and where the luxurious -indulgences of the few find ample occupation for the penurious industry -of the many. But here, one man drives several trades; and in every shop -you meet with a strange incongruous mixture of articles for sale, which -would be found nowhere in England, but in the veriest village -huckster's. Comparatively few of the objects for sale can be exposed in -the windows, which are, unlike our shop windows, narrow and ill adapted -for the display of goods: but piles of them lie outside the doors, -choking up the pathway, and coloured cloths, flannels, shawls, etc., are -suspended about in long draperies, whose vivid colours flying over the -face of the houses give them an untidy, but at the same time a gay, -flaunting appearance. We went into a shop to buy some stockings, and -missing our _preux chevalier_, I turned round to look for him; when I -perceived him beautifying most busily before a glass in a further corner -of the shop. He had seized on a sort of house brush, and began brooming -his hat: the next operation was to produce a small pocket-comb and -arrange his disordered locks; lastly, he transferred the services of the -brush of all work from his head to his feet, and having dusted his -boots, drawn himself up in his surtout, buttoned its two lower buttons, -and given a reforming grasp to his neckcloth, he approached us, -evidently much advanced in his own good graces. We went to the -furrier's, and brought away my dark boa. Came home, put out things for -packing up, and remained so engaged till time to dress for dinner. Mr. -and Mrs. ---- and Mr. ---- dined with us. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Mr. ---- is an Englishman of the high breed, and sufficiently pleasant. -After dinner we had to withdraw into our bed-room, for the house is so -full that they can't cram any thing more into an inch of it. - -Joined the gentlemen at tea. Mr. ---- had gone to the theatre: Mr. ---- -and I had some music. He plays delightfully, and knows every note of -music that ever was written; but he had the barbarity to make me sing a -song of his own composing to him, which is a cruel thing in a man to do. -He went away at about eleven, and we then came to bed. My father went to -see Miss Clifton, at the Bowery theatre. - - -_Thursday, 4th._ - -Rose late. After breakfast, went to rehearsal: my Bizarre is getting a -little more into shape. After rehearsal, came home. Mr. ---- and Mr. ----- called, and sat some time with me. The former is tolerably -pleasant, but a little too fond of telling good stories that he has told -before. Put out things for the theatre: dined at three. Colonel ----- called. Wrote journal: while doing so, was called out to look at my -gown, which the worthy milliner had sent home. - - - I am, I am an angel! Witness it, heaven! - Witness it earth, and every being witness it! - The gown was spoil'd! Yet by immortal patience - I did not even fly into a passion. - - -She took it back to alter it. Presently arrived my wreath, and that had -also to be taken back; for 't was nothing like what I had ordered. Now -all this does not provoke me; but the thing that does, is the dreadful -want of manners of the tradespeople here. They bolt into your room -without knocking, nod to you, sit down, and without the preface of -either Sir, Ma'am, or Miss, start off into "Well now, I'm come to speak -about so and so." At six, went to the theatre; play, the Hunchback: the -house was crammed from floor to ceiling. I had an intense headach, but -played tolerably well. I wore my red satin, and looked like a bonfire. -Came home and found Smith's Virginia, and two volumes of Graham's -America, which I want to read. They charge twelve dollars for these: -every thing is horribly dear here. Came to bed with my head splitting. - - -_Friday, 5th._ - -Played Bizarre for the first time. Acted so-so, looked very pretty, the -house was very fine, and my father incomparable: they called for him -after the play. Colonel ---- and Mr. ---- called in while we were at -supper. - - -_Saturday, 6th._ - -Rose late: when I came in to breakfast, found Colonel ---- sitting in -the parlour. He remained for a long time, and we had sundry discussions -on topics manifold. It seems that the blessed people here were shocked -at my having to hear the coarseness of Farquhar's -Inconstant--humbug![21] - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At twelve, went out shopping, and paying bills; called upon Mrs. ----, -and sat some time with her and Mrs. ----; left a card at Mrs. ----'s, -and came home, prepared things for our journey, and dressed for dinner. -On our way to Mr. ----'s, my father told me he had been seeing Miss -Clifton, the girl they want him to teach to act; (to _teach_ to act, -quotha!!!) He says, she is very pretty indeed, with fine eyes, a fair -delicate skin, and a handsome mouth; moreover, a tall woman, and yet -from the front of the house her effect is nought. What a pity, and a -provoking! A pleasant dinner, very. Mr. ---- the poet, one Dr. ----, -Colonel ----, and Mr. ----: the only woman was a Miss ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -----'s face reminded me of young ----: the countenance was not quite so -good, but there was the same radiant look about the eyes and forehead. -His expression was strongly sarcastic; I liked him very much -notwithstanding. When we left the men, we had the pleasure of the -children's society, and that of an unhappy kitten, whom a little -pitiless urchin of three years old was carrying crumpled under her arm -like a pincushion. The people here make me mad by abusing Lawrence's -drawing of me. If ever there was a refined and intellectual work, where -the might of genius triumphing over every material impediment has -enshrined and embodied spirit itself, it is that. Talking of Lawrence, -(poor Lawrence!) Mrs. ---- said, "Ah, yes! your picture -by--a--Sir--something--Lawrence!" Oh, fame! oh, fame! Oh, vanity and -vexation of spirit! does your eternity and your infinitude amount to -this? There are lands where Shakspeare's name was never heard, where -Raphael and Handel are unknown; to be sure, for the matter of that, -there are regions (and those wide ones too) where Jesus Christ is -unknown. At nine o'clock, went to the Richmond Hill theatre, to see the -opening of the Italian company. The house itself is a pretty little box -enough, but as bad as a box to sing in. We went to Mr. ----'s box, where -he was kind enough to give us seats. The first act was over, but we had -all the benefit of the second. I had much ado not to laugh: and when Mr. -----, that everlasting giggler, came and sat down beside me, I gave -myself up for lost. However, I did behave, in spite of two blue-bottles -of women, who by way of the sisters buzzed about the stage, singing -enough to set one's teeth on edge. Then came a very tall Dandini; by the -by, that man had a good bass voice, but Mr. ---- said it was the finest -he had heard since _Zucchelli_. O tempora! O mores! Zucchelli, that -prince of delicious baritones! However, as I said, the man has a good -bass voice; there was also a sufficiently good Pompolino. Montresor -banged himself about, broke his time, and made some execrable flourishes -in the Prince, whereat the enlightened New Yorkians applauded mightily. -But the Prima Donna! but the Cenerentola! Cospetto di Venere, what a -figure, and what a face! Indeed she was the very thing for a lower -housemaid, and I think the Prince was highly to blame for removing her -from the station nature had evidently intended her for. She was old and -ugly, and worse than ugly, unpardonably common-looking, with a cast in -her eye, and a foot that, as Mr. ---- observed, it would require a -_pretty considerable_ large glass slipper to fit. Then she -sang--discords and dismay, how she did sing! I could not forbear -stealing a glance at ----: he applauded the sestett vehemently; but when -it came to that most touching "_nacqui al' affanno_," he wisely -interposed his handkerchief between the stage and his gracious -countenance. I thought of poor dear ----, and her sweet voice, and her -refined taste, and shuddered to hear this favourite of hers bedevilled -by such a Squalini. Now is it possible that people can be such fools as -to fancy this good in spite of their senses, or such earless asses -(that's a bull I suppose), as to suffer themselves to be persuaded that -it is? Though why do I ask it? Oh yes, "very easily possible." Do not -half the people in London spend money and time without end, enduring -nightly penances--listening to what they can't understand, and couldn't -appreciate if they did? I suppose if I shall allow a hundred out of the -whole King's Theatre audience to know any thing whatever about music, I -am wide in my grant of comprehension. There was that virtuous youth, Mr. -----, who evidently ranks as one of the cognoscenti here, who exclaimed -triumphantly at the end of one of the perpetrations, "Well, after all, -there's nothing like Rossini." Handel, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, and -Weber, are _not_, that is certain.[22] I wish I could have seen Mr. ---- -during that finale. Coming out, were joined by Mr. ----: brought him -home in the carriage with us. Gave him "Ye mariners of Spain," and some -cold tongue, to take the taste of the Cenerentola out of his mouth. He -stayed some time. I like him enough: he is evidently a clever man, -though he does murder the King's English. (By the by, does _English_, -the tongue, belong, in America, to the King or the President--I wonder? -I should rather think, from my limited observations, that it was the -individual property of every freeborn citizen of the United States.) -Now, what on earth can I say to the worthy citizens, if they ask me what -I thought of the Italian opera? That it was very amusing--yes, that will -do nicely; that will be true, and not too direct a condemnation of their -good taste. - - -_Sunday, 7th._ - -Rose late. Young ---- breakfasted with us. How unfortunately plain he -is! His voice is marvellously like his father's, and it pleased me to -hear him speak therefore. He was talking to my father about the various -southern and western theatres, and bidding us expect to meet strange -coadjutors in those lost lands beyond the world. On one occasion, he -said, when he was acting Richard the Third, some of the underlings kept -their hats on while he was on the stage, whereat ---- remonstrated, -requesting them in a whisper to uncover, as they were in the presence of -a king; to which admonition he received the following characteristic -reply: "Fiddlestick! I guess we know nothing about kings in this -country." Colonel ---- called too; but D---- and I went off to church, -and left my father to entertain them. Met Mr. ---- and Mr. ----, who -were coming to fetch us: went to Mr. ----'s pew. The music was very -delightful; but decidedly I do not like music in church. The less my -senses are appealed to in the house of prayer, the better for me and my -devotions. Although I have experienced excitement of a stern and -martial, and sometimes of a solemn, nature, from music, yet these melt -away, and its abiding influence with me is of a much softer kind: -therefore, in church, I had rather dispense with it, particularly when -they sing psalms, as they did to-day, to the tune of "Come dwell with -me, and be my love." I did not like the sermon much; there was effect in -it, painting, which I dislike. Staid the sacrament, the first I have -taken in this strange land. Mr. ---- walked home with us: when he was -gone, Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- called. When they had all taken their -departure, settled accounts, wrote journal, wrote to my mother, came and -put away sundry things, and dressed for dinner. My father dined with -Mr. ----: D---- and I dined _tete-a-tete_. Colonel ---- came twice -through the pouring rain to look after our baggage for to-morrow; such -charity is unexampled. - - -_Monday, 8th._ - -Rose (oh, horror!) at a quarter to five. Night was still brooding over -the earth. Long before I was dressed, the first voice I heard was that -of Colonel ----, come to look after our luggage, and see us off. To lend -my friend a thousand pounds (if I had it) I could--to lend him my horse, -perhaps I might; but to get up in the middle of the night, and come -dawdling in the grey cold hour of the morning upon damp quays, and among -dusty packages, except for my own flesh and blood, I could not. Yet this -worthy man did it for us; whence I pronounce that he must be half a -Quaker himself, for no common episcopal benevolence could stretch this -pitch. Dressed, and gathered together my things, and at six o'clock, -just as the night was folding its soft black wings, and rising slowly -from the earth, we took our departure from that mansion of little ease, -the American, and our fellow-lodgers the ants, and proceeded to the -Philadelphia steam-boat, which started from the bottom of Barclay -Street. We were recommended to this American Hotel as the best and most -comfortable in New York; and truly the charges were as high as one could -have paid at the Clarendon, in the land of comfort and taxation. The -wine was exorbitantly dear; champagne and claret about eleven shillings -sterling a bottle; sherry, port, and madeira, from nine to thirteen. The -rooms were a mixture of French finery and Irish disorder and dirt; the -living was by no means good; the whole house being conducted on a close -scraping system of inferior accommodations and extravagant charges. On a -sudden influx of visiters, sitting-rooms were converted into bed-rooms, -containing four and five beds. The number of servants was totally -inadequate to the work; and the articles of common use, such as knives -and spoons, were so scantily provided, that when the public table was -very full one day, the knives and forks for our dinner were obliged to -be washed from theirs; and the luxury of a carving-knife was not to be -procured at all on that occasion: it is true that they had sometimes as -many as two hundred and fifty guests at the ordinary. The servants, who, -as I said before, were just a quarter as many as the house required, had -no bed-rooms allotted to them, but slept _about_ any where, in the -public rooms, or on sofas in drawing-rooms, let to private families. In -short, nothing can exceed the want of order, propriety, and comfort in -this establishment, except the enormity of the tribute it levies upon -pilgrims and wayfarers through the land.[23] And so, as I said, we -departed therefrom nothing loath. - -The morning was dull, dreary, and damp, which I regretted very much. The -steam-boat was very large and commodious, as all these conveyances are. -I enquired of one of the passengers what the power of the engine was: he -replied that he did not exactly know, but that he thought it was about -forty-horse power; and that, when going at speed, the engine struck -thirty times in a minute: this appeared to me a great number in so short -a time; but the weather shortly became wet and drizzly, and I did not -remain on deck to observe. My early rising had made me very sleepy, so I -came down to the third deck to sleep. These steam-boats have three -stories; the upper one is, as it were, a roofing or terrace on the leads -of the second, a very desirable station when the weather is neither too -foul nor too fair; a burning sun being, I should think, as little -desirable there as a shower of rain. The second floor or deck has the -advantage of the ceiling above, and yet, the sides being completely -open, it is airy, and allows free sight of the shores on either hand. -Chairs, stools, and benches, are the furniture of these two decks. The -one below, or third floor downwards, in fact, the _ground floor_, being -the one near the water, is a spacious room completely roofed and walled -in, where the passengers take their meals, and resort if the weather is -unfavourable. At the end of this room is a smaller cabin for the use of -the ladies, with beds and a sofa, and all the conveniences necessary, if -they should like to be sick; whither I came and slept till breakfast -time. Vigne's account of the pushing, thrusting, rushing, and devouring -on board a western steam-boat at meal times had prepared me for rather -an awful spectacle; but this, I find, is by no means the case in these -more civilised parts, and every thing was conducted with perfect order, -propriety, and civility. The breakfast was good, and served and eaten -with decency enough. Came up on the upper deck, and walked about with my -father. The width of the river struck me as remarkable; but the shores -were flat, and for the most part uninteresting, except for the rich and -various tints which the thickets of wood presented, and which are as -superior in brilliancy and intenseness to our autumnal colouring as -their gorgeous skies are to ours. Opposite the town of Amboy, the -Raritan opens into a magnificent lake-like expanse round the extreme -point of Staten Island.[24] As the shores on either side, however, were -not very interesting, I finished reading Combe's book. There is much -sound philosophy in it; but I do not think it altogether establishes the -main point that he wishes to make good--the truth of phrenology, and the -necessity of its being adopted as the only science of the human mind. -His general assertions admit of strong individual exceptions, which, I -think, go far towards invalidating the generality. However, 'tis not a -full development of his own system, but, as it were, only an -introduction to it; and his own admissions of the obscurity and -uncertainty in which that system is still involved necessarily enforces -a suspension of judgment, until its practical results have become more -manifest, and in some measure borne witness to the truth of his theory. -At about half-past ten we reached the place where we leave the river, to -proceed across a part of the State of New Jersey to the Delaware. The -landing was beyond measure wretched: the shore shelved down to the -water's edge; and its marshy, clayey, sticky soil, rendered doubly soft -and squashy by the damp weather, was strewn over with broken potsherds, -stones, and bricks, by way of pathway; these, however, presently failed, -and some slippery planks half immersed in mud were the only roads to the -coaches that stood ready to receive the passengers of the steam-boat. -Oh, these coaches! English eye hath not seen, English ear hath not -heard, nor hath it entered into the heart of Englishmen to conceive the -surpassing clumsiness and wretchedness of these leathern inconveniences. -They are shaped something like boats, the sides being merely leathern -pieces, removable at pleasure, but which, in bad weather, are buttoned -down, to protect the inmates from the wet. There are three seats in this -machine; the middle one, having a movable leathern strap, by way of a -dossier, runs between the carriage doors, and lifts away to permit the -egress and ingress of the occupants of the other seats. Into the one -facing the horses D---- and I put ourselves; presently two young ladies -occupied the opposite one; a third lady, and a gentleman of the same -party, sat in the middle seat, into which my father's huge bulk was also -squeezed; finally, another man belonging to the same party ensconced -himself between the two young ladies. Thus the two seats were filled, -each with three persons, and there should by rights have been a third on -ours; for this nefarious black hole on wheels is intended to carry nine. -However, we profited little by the space, for, letting alone that there -is not really and truly room for more than two human beings of common -growth and proportions on each of these seats, the third place was amply -filled up with baskets and packages of ours, and huge _undoubleableup_ -coats and cloaks of my father's. - -For the first few minutes I thought I must have fainted from the -intolerable sensation of smothering which I experienced. However, the -leathers having been removed, and a little more air obtained, I took -heart of grace, and resigned myself to my fate. Away wallopped the four -horses, trotting with their front and galloping with their hind legs; -and away went we after them, bumping, thumping, jumping, jolting, -shaking, tossing, and tumbling, over the wickedest road, I do think the -cruellest hard-heartedest road, that ever wheel rumbled upon. Thorough -bog and marsh, and ruts wider and deeper than any christian ruts I ever -saw, with the roots of trees protruding across our path; their boughs -every now and then giving us an affectionate scratch through the -windows; and, more than once, a half-demolished trunk or stump lying in -the middle of the road lifting us up, and letting us down again, with -most awful variations of our poor coach body from its natural position. -Bones of me! what a road![25] Even my father's solid proportions could -not keep their level, but were jerked up to the roof and down again -every three minutes. Our companions seemed nothing dismayed by these -wondrous performances of a coach and four, but laughed and talked -incessantly, the young ladies, at the very top of their voices, and with -the national nasal twang.[26] The conversation was much of the _genteel_ -shopkeeper kind; the wit of the ladies, and the gallantry of the -gentlemen, savouring strongly of tapes and yard measures, and the -shrieks of laughter of the whole set enough to drive one into a frenzy. -The ladies were all pretty; two of them particularly so, with delicate -fair complexions, and beautiful grey eyes: how I wish they could have -held their tongues for two minutes! We had not long been in the coach -before one of them complained of being dreadfully sick.[27] This, in -such a space, and with seven near neighbours! Fortunately she was near -the window; and during our whole fourteen miles of purgatory she -alternately leaned from it overcome with sickness, then reclined -languishingly in the arms of her next neighbour, and then, starting up -with amazing vivacity, joined her voice to the treble duet of her two -pretty companions, with a superiority of shrillness that might have been -the pride and envy of Billingsgate. 'Twas enough to bother a rookery! -The country through which we passed was woodland, flat, and without -variety, save what it derived from the wondrous richness and brilliancy -of the autumnal foliage. Here indeed decay is beautiful; and nature -appears more gorgeously clad in this her fading mantle, than in all the -summer's flush of bloom in our less-favoured climates.[28] I noted -several beautiful wild flowers growing among the underwood; some of -which I have seen adorning with great dignity our most cultivated -gardens.[29] None of the trees had any size or appearance of age: they -are the second growth, which have sprung from the soil once possessed by -a mightier race of vegetables. The quantity of mere underwood, and the -number of huge black stumps rising in every direction a foot or two from -the soil, bear witness to the existence of fine forest timber. The few -cottages and farm-houses which we passed reminded me of similar -dwellings in France and Ireland; yet the peasantry here have not the -same excuse for disorder and dilapidation as either the Irish or French. -The farms had the same desolate, untidy, untended look: the gates -broken, the fences carelessly put up, or ill repaired; the -farming-utensils sluttishly scattered about a littered yard, where the -pigs seemed to preside by undisputed right; house-windows broken, and -stuffed with paper or clothes; dishevelled women, and barefooted -anomalous-looking human young things; none of the stirring life and -activity which such places present in England and Scotland; above all, -none of the enchanting mixture of neatness, order, and rustic elegance -and comfort, which render so picturesque the surroundings of a farm, and -the various belongings of agricultural labour in my own dear -country.[30] The fences struck me as peculiar; I never saw any such in -England. They are made of rails of wood placed horizontally, and meeting -at obtuse angles, so forming a zig-zag wall of wood, which runs over the -country like the herring-bone seams of a flannel petticoat. At each of -the angles two slanting stakes, considerably higher than the rest of the -fence, were driven into the ground, crossing each other at the top, so -as to secure the horizontal rails in their position.[31] - -There was every now and then a soft vivid strip of turf, along the -road-side, that made me long for a horse. Indeed the whole road would -have been a delightful ride, and was a most bitter drive. At the end of -fourteen miles we turned into a swampy field, the whole fourteen -coachfuls of us, and, by the help of Heaven, bag and baggage were packed -into the coaches which stood on the rail-way ready to receive us. The -carriages were not drawn by steam, like those on the Liverpool rail-way, -but by horses, with the mere advantage in speed afforded by the iron -ledges, which, to be sure, compared with our previous progress through -the ruts, was considerable. Our coachful got into the first carriage of -the train, escaping, by way of especial grace, the dust which one's -predecessors occasion. This vehicle had but two seats, in the usual -fashion; each of which held four of us. The whole inside was lined with -blazing scarlet leather, and the windows _shaded_ with stuff curtains of -the same refreshing colour; which, with full complement of passengers, -on a fine, sunny, American summer's day, must make as pretty a little -miniature hell as may be, I should think. The baggage-waggon, which went -before us, a little obstructed the view. The road was neither pretty nor -picturesque; but still fringed on each side with the many-coloured -woods, whose rich tints made variety even in sameness. This rail-road is -an infinite blessing; 'tis not yet finished, but shortly will be so, and -then the whole of that horrible fourteen miles will be performed in -comfort and decency in less than half the time. In about an hour and a -half we reached the end of our rail-road part of the journey, and found -another steam-boat waiting for us, when we all embarked on the -Delaware. Again, the enormous width of the river struck me with -astonishment and admiration. Such huge bodies of water mark out the -country through which they run, as the future abode of the most -extensive commerce and greatest maritime power in the universe. The -banks presented much the same features as those of the Raritan, though -they were not quite so flat, and more diversified with scattered -dwellings, villages, and towns. We passed Bristol and Burlington, -stopping at each of them to take up passengers.[32] I sat working, -having finished my book, not a little discomfited by the pertinacious -staring of some of my fellow-travellers. One woman, in particular, after -wandering round me in every direction, at last came and sat down -opposite me, and literally gazed me out of countenance. One improvement -they have adopted on board these boats is to forbid smoking, except in -the fore part of the vessel. I wish they would suggest that, if the -gentlemen would refrain from spitting about too, it would be highly -agreeable to the female part of the community. The universal practice -here of this disgusting trick makes me absolutely sick: every place is -made a perfect piggery of--street, stairs, steam-boat, everywhere--and -behind the scenes; on the stage at rehearsal I have been shocked and -annoyed beyond expression by this horrible custom. To-day, on board the -boat, it was a perfect shower of saliva all the time; and I longed to be -released from my fellowship with these very obnoxious chewers of -tobacco.[33] At about four o'clock we reached Philadelphia, having -performed the journey between that and New York (a distance of a hundred -miles) in less than ten hours, in spite of bogs, ruts, and all other -impediments. The manager came to look after us and our goods; and we -were presently stowed into a coach, which conveyed us to the Mansion -House, the best-reputed inn in Philadelphia. On asking for our -bed-rooms, they showed D---- and myself into a double-bedded room. On my -remonstrating against this, the chambermaid replied, that they were not -accustomed to allow lodgers so _much room_ as a room apiece. However, -upon my insisting, they gave me a little nest just big enough to turn -about in, but where, at least, I can be by myself. Dressed, and dined at -five; after dinner, wrote journal till tea-time, and then came to bed. - - -_Tuesday, 9th._ - -Rose at half-past eight. Went and took a bath. On my way thither, drove -through two melancholy-looking squares, which reminded me a little of -poor old Queen Square in Bristol. The ladies' baths were closed, but, as -I was not particular, they gave me one in the part of the house usually -allotted to the men's use. I was much surprised to find two baths in one -room, but it seems to me that the people of this country have an -aversion to solitude, whether eating, sleeping, or under any other -circumstances. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I made acquaintance with a bewitching Newfoundland puppy, whom I greatly -coveted. Came home, dressed, and breakfasted. After breakfast, righted -my things, and wrote journal. Took a walk with my father through some of -the principal streets. The town is perfect silence and solitude, -compared with New York; there is a greater air of age about it too, -which pleases me. The red houses are not so fiercely red, nor the white -facings so glaringly white; in short, it has not so new and flaunting a -look, which is a great recommendation to me. The city is regularly -built, the streets intersecting each other at right angles. We passed -one or two pretty buildings in pure white marble, and the Bank in -Chestnut Street, which is a beautiful little copy of the Parthenon. The -pure, cold, clear-looking marble suits well with the severe and -unadorned style of architecture; and is in harmony, too, with the -extreme brilliancy of the sky, and clearness of the atmosphere of this -country.[34] We passed another larger building, also a bank, in the -Corinthian style, which did not please me so much. The shops here are -much better looking than those at New York: the windows are larger, and -more advantageously constructed for the display of goods; and there did -not appear to be the same anomalous mixture of vendibles, as in the New -York shops. The streets were very full of men hurrying to the -town-house, to give their votes. It is election time, and much -excitement subsists with regard to the choice of the future -President.[35] The democrats or radicals are for the re-election of -General Jackson, but the aristocratic party, which here at all events is -the strongest, are in favour of Henry Clay. Here is the usual quantity -of shouting and breaking windows that we are accustomed to on these -occasions. I saw a caricature of Jackson and Van Buren, his chief -supporter, which was entitled "The King and his Minister." Van Buren -held a crown in his hand, and the devil was approaching Jackson with a -sceptre.--Came in at half-past four, dressed for dinner: they gave us an -excellent one. The master of this house was, it seems, once a man of -independent fortune, and a great _bon vivant_. He has retained from -thence a fellow-feeling for his guests, and does by them as he would be -done by. After dinner, worked till tea-time; after tea, wrote journal, -and now I'll go to bed. We are attended here by a fat old lively negro, -by name Henry, who canters about in our behalf with great alacrity, and -seems wrapt in much wonderment at many of our proceedings. By the by, -the black who protected our baggage from the steam-boat was ycleped -_Oliver Cromwell_. I have begun Grahame's History of America, and like -it "mainly," as the old plays say. - - -_Wednesday, 10th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, trimmed a cap, and wrote to dear ----. -The streets were in an uproar all night, people shouting and bonfires -blazing; in short, electioneering fun, which seems to be pretty much the -same all the world over. Clay has it hollow here, they say: I wonder -what Colonel ---- will say to that. At twelve o'clock, sallied forth -with D---- to rehearsal. The theatre is very pretty; not large but well -sized, and, I should think, favourably constructed for the voice. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Unless Aldabella is irresistibly lovely, as well as wicked, there is no -accounting for the conduct of Fazio. My own idea of her, as well as -Milman's description, is every thing that can be conceived of splendid -in beauty, sparkling in wit, graceful in deportment, gorgeous in -apparel, and deep and dangerous in crafty wiliness; in short, the old -serpent in the shape of Mrs. ----. I wish Mrs. ---- would act that part: -I could act it well enough, but she would both act and look it, to the -very life. After rehearsal, walked about the town in quest of some -_coques de perle_ for my Bianca dress: could not procure any. I like -this town extremely: there is a look of comfort and cleanliness, and -withal of age about it, which pleases me. It is quieter, too, than New -York, and though not so gay, for that very reason is more to my fancy; -the shops, too, have a far better appearance. New York always gave me -the idea of an irregular collection of temporary buildings, erected for -some casual purpose, full of life, animation, and variety, but not meant -to endure for any length of time; a fair, in short. This place has a -much more substantial, sober, and city-like appearance. Came home at -half-past two. In the hall met Mr. ----, who is grown ten years younger -since I saw him last: it always delights me to see one of my -fellow-passengers, and I am much disappointed in not finding ---- here. -Dined at three; after dinner, read my father some of my journal; went on -with letter to ----, and then went and dressed myself. Took coffee, and -adjourned to the theatre. The house was very full, but not so full as -the Park on the first night of his acting in New York, which accounts -for the greater stillness of the audience. I watched my father narrowly -through his part to-night with great attention and some consequent -fatigue, and the conclusion I have come to is this: that though his -workmanship may be, and is, far finer _in the hand_ than that of any -other artist I ever saw, yet its very minute accuracy and refinement -renders it unfit for the frame in which it is exhibited. Whoever should -paint a scene calculated for so large a space as a theatre, and destined -to be viewed at the distance from which an audience beholds it, with the -laborious finish and fine detail of a miniature, would commit a great -error in judgment. Nor would he have the least right to complain, -although the public should prefer the coarser yet far more effective -work of a painter, who, neglecting all refinement and niceness of -execution, should merely paint with such full colouring, and breadth and -boldness of touch, as to produce in the wide space he is called upon to -fill, and upon the remote senses he appeals to, the _effect_ of that -which he intends to represent. Indeed he is the better artist of the -two, though probably not the most intellectual man. For it is the part -of such a one to know exactly what will best convey to the mass of mind -and feeling to which he addresses himself the emotions and passions -which he wishes them to experience.[36] Now the great beauty of all my -father's performances, but particularly of Hamlet, is a wonderful -accuracy in the detail of the character which he represents; an accuracy -which modulates the emphasis of every word, the nature of every gesture, -the expression of every look; and which renders the whole a most -laborious and minute study, toilsome in the conception and acquirement, -and most toilsome in the execution. But the result, though the natural -one, is not such as he expects, as the reward of so much labour. Few -persons are able to follow such a performance with the necessary -attention, and it is almost as great an exertion to see it -_understandingly_, as to act it. The amazing study of it requires a -study in those who are to appreciate it, and, as I take it, this is far -from being what the majority of spectators are either capable or -desirous of doing; the actor loses his pains, and they have but little -pleasure. Those who perform, and those who behold a play, have but a -certain proportion of power of exciting, and capability of being -excited. If, therefore, the actor expends his power of exciting, and his -audience's power of being excited, upon the detail of the piece, and -continues through five whole acts to draw from both, the main and -striking points, those of strongest appeal, those calculated most to -rouse at once, and gratify the emotions of the spectator, have not the -same intensity or vigour that they would have had, if the powers of both -actor and audience had been reserved to give them their fullest effect. -A picture requires light and shadow; and the very relief that throws -some of the figures in a fine painting into apparent obscurity, in -reality enhances the effect produced by those over which the artist has -shed a stronger light. Every note in the most expressive song does not -require a peculiar expression; and an air sung with individual emphasis -on each note would be utterly unproductive of the desired effect. All -things cannot have all their component parts equal, and "nothing -pleaseth but rare accidents." This being so, I think that acting the -best which skilfully husbands the actor's and spectator's powers, and -puts forth the whole of the one, to call forth the whole of the other, -occasionally only; leaving the intermediate parts sufficiently level, to -allow him and them to recover the capability of again producing, and -again receiving, such impressions. It is constant that our finest nerves -deaden and dull from over-excitement, and require repose, before they -regain their acute power of sensation. At the same time, I am far from -advocating that most imperfect conception and embodying of a part which -Kean allows himself: literally acting detached passages alone, and -leaving all the others, and the entire character, indeed, utterly -destitute of unity, or the semblance of any consistency whatever. But -Kean and my father are immediately each other's antipodes, and, in -adopting their different styles of acting, it is evident that each has -been guided as much by his own physical and intellectual individuality, -as by any fixed principle of art. The one, Kean, possesses particular -physical qualifications; an eye like an orb of light, a voice, -exquisitely touching and melodious in its tenderness, and in the harsh -dissonance of vehement passion terribly true; to these he adds the -intellectual ones of vigour, intensity, amazing power of concentrating -effect; these give him an entire mastery over his audience in all -striking, sudden, impassioned passages, in fulfilling which he has -contented himself, leaving unheeded what he probably could not compass, -the unity of conception, the refinement of detail, and evenness of -execution.[37] My father possesses certain physical defects, a faintness -of colouring in the face and eye, a weakness of voice; and the -corresponding intellectual deficiencies, a want of intensity, vigour, -and concentrating power: these circumstances have led him (probably -unconsciously) to give his attention and study to the finer and more -fleeting shades of character, the more graceful and delicate -manifestations of feeling, the exquisite variety of all minor parts, the -classic keeping of a highly-wrought whole; to all these, polished and -refined tastes, an acute sense of the beauty of harmonious proportions, -and a native grace, gentleness, and refinement of mind and manner, have -been his prompters; but they cannot inspire those startling and -tremendous bursts of passion, which belong to the highest walks of -tragedy, and to which he never gave their fullest expression. I fancy my -aunt Siddons united the excellences of both these styles. But to return -to my father's Hamlet: every time I see it, something strikes me afresh -in the detail. Nothing in my mind can exceed the exquisite beauty of his -last "Go on--I follow thee," to the ghost. The full gush of deep and -tender faith, in spite of the awful mystery, to whose unfolding he is -committing his life, is beautiful beyond measure. It is distinct, and -wholly different from the noble, rational, philosophic conviction, "And -for my soul, what can it do to that?" It is full of the unutterable -fondness of a believing heart, and brought to my mind, last night, those -holy and lovely words of scripture, "Perfect love casteth out fear:" it -enchanted me.[38] There is one thing in which I do not believe my father -ever has been, or ever will be, excelled; his high and noble bearing, -his gallant, graceful, courteous deportment; his perfect good-breeding -on the stage; unmarked alike by any peculiarity of time, place, or self -(except peculiar grace and beauty). He appears to me the beau ideal of -the courtly, thorough-bred, chivalrous gentleman, from the days of the -admirable Crichton down to those of George the Fourth. Coming home after -the play, the marble buildings in the full moonlight reminded me of the -Ghost in Hamlet: they looked like pale majestic spirits, cold, calm, and -colourless. - - -_Thursday, 11th._ - -Rose rather late. After breakfast, wrote journal; at twelve, went to -rehearsal. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After rehearsal, came home, habited, and went to the riding-school to -try some horses. _Merci de moi!_ what quadrupeds! How they did wallop -and shamble about; poor half-broken dumb brutes! they know no better; -and as the natives here are quite satisfied with their shuffling, -rollicking, mongrel pace, half trot, half canter, why it is not worth -while to break horses in a christian-like fashion for them.[39] I found -something that I think my father can ride with tolerable comfort, but -must go again to-morrow and see after something for myself. Came home: -the enchanting Mr. Head has allowed me a piano-forte; but in bringing it -into the room, the stupid slave broke one of its legs off, whereat I was -like to faint, for I thought Mr. Head would wish me hanged therefor. -Nothing can exceed the civility of the people here, and the house is -extremely well kept, quiet, and comfortable. Came home in high delight -with this Quaker city, which is indeed very pretty and pleasant. Played -on the piano: dressed for dinner. After dinner, practised till tea-time, -finished journal, discussed metaphysics with D----, for which I am a -fool; wrote to-day's journal, and now to bed. I have a dreadful cold and -cough, and have done nothing but hack and snivel the whole day long: -this is a bad preparation for to-morrow's work. Howsoever---- - - -_Friday, 12th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, sat writing journal and letter to ----. -At half-past eleven, went to rehearsal. Afterwards walked down to the -riding-school with my father. The horse I was to look at had not -arrived; but my father saw the grey. We were there for some time; and -during that whole some time a tall, thin, unhappy-looking gentleman, who -had gotten up upon a great hulking rawboned horse, kept trotting round -and round, with his legs dangling down, _sans_ stirrups, at the rate of -a mile and a quarter an hour; occasionally ejaculating in the mildest of -tones, "keome--keome up;" whereat the lively brute, nothing persuaded, -proceeded in the very same pace, at the very same rate; and this went on -till I wondered at the man and the beast. Came home and put out things -for the theatre. My cold and cough are dreadful. After dinner, -practised: invented and executed a substitute for the _coques de perle_ -in my Bianca dress; and lay down to rest a little before my work. At -six, went to the theatre: the house was very full; and D---- and my -father say that I was extremely ungracious in my acknowledgment of their -greeting. I cannot tell; I did not mean to be so; I made them three -courtesies, and what could woman do more? Of course, I can neither feel -nor look so glad to see them as I am to see my own dear London people: -neither can I be as profound in my obeisance, as when my audience is -civil enough to rise to me: "there is differences, look you." - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -My Fazio had a pair of false black whiskers on, which distilled a black -stripe of trickling cement down his cheeks, and kept me in agony every -time he had to embrace me. My voice was horrible to hear; alternately -like Mrs. ---- and ----, and every now and then it was all I could do to -utter at all. This audience is the most unapplausive I ever acted to, -not excepting my _excitable_ friends north of the Tweed. They were very -attentive, certainly, but how they did make me work! 'Tis amazing how -much an audience loses by this species of hanging back, even where the -silence proceeds from unwillingness to interrupt a good performance: -though in reality it is the greatest compliment an actor can receive, -yet he is deprived by that very stillness of half his power. Excitement -is reciprocal between the performer and the audience: he creates it in -them, and receives it back again from them; and in that last scene in -Fazio, half the effect that I produce is derived from the applause -which I receive, the very noise and tumult of which tends to heighten -the nervous energy which the scene itself begets. I know that my aunt -Siddons has frequently said the same thing. And besides the above reason -for applause, the physical powers of an actor require, after any -tremendous exertion, the rest and regathering of breath and strength, -which the interruption of the audience affords him; moreover, as 'tis -the conventional mode of expressing approbation in a theatre, it is -chilling and uncomfortable to go toiling on, without knowing whether, as -the maidservants say, "one gives satisfaction or no." They made noise -enough, however, at the end of the play. Came home, supped, and to bed; -weary to death, and with a voice like a cracked bagpipe. - - -_Saturday, 13th._ - -Rose at half-past eight. After breakfast, wrote journal; practised for -an hour; got things ready for to-morrow; put on my habit, which I had no -sooner done than the perverse clouds began to rain. The horses came at -two, but the weather was so bad that I sent them away again. Practised -for another hour, read a canto in Dante, and dressed for dinner. After -dinner, worked and practised. Came to my own room, and tried to scribble -something for the Mirror, at my father's request; the editors having -made an especial entreaty to him that I might write something for them, -and also sit to some artist for them. I could not accomplish any thing, -and they must just take something that I have by me: as for my -physiognomy, that they shall certainly not have with my own good leave. -I will never expend so much useless time again as to sit for my picture; -nor will I let any unhappy painter again get abused for painting me as I -am, which is any thing but what I look like. Lawrence alone could do it: -there is no other that could see my spirit through my face; and as for -the face without that, the less that is seen of it the better. Came down -to tea, and found a young gentleman sitting with my father; one Mr. -----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -He was a pretty-spoken _genteel_ youth enough: he drank tea with us, and -offered to ride with me. He is, it seems, a great fortune; consequently, -I suppose (in spite of his inches), a great man. Now I'll go to bed: my -cough's enough to kill a horse. - - -_Sunday, 14th._ - -Rose late; so late that, by the time I had breakfasted, it was no longer -time to go to church. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Finished my first letter to ----. Mr. ---- called, and told us that he -was going about _agitating_, and that Jackson was certainly to be -re-elected. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At three o'clock D---- and I sallied forth to go to church. Following -the silver voices of the Sabbath bells, as they called the worshippers -to the house of prayer, we entered a church with a fine simple facade, -and found ourselves in the midst of a Presbyterian congregation. 'Tis -now upwards of eight years since, a school girl, I used to attend a -dissenters' chapel. The form of worship, though displeasing to me in -itself, borrowed a charm to-day from old association. How much of the -past it did recall! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came home and dressed for dinner. After dinner, half-killed myself with -laughter over an Irish version of Fazio, ycleped Grimaldi, from which -the author swears Milman has shamefully filched the plot, characters, -and even the language, I believe, of his drama. A gentleman of the -press, by name ----, paid us an evening visit. He seems an intelligent -young man enough; and when he spoke of the autumnal woods, by the Oneida -lake, his expressions were poetical and enthusiastic; and he pleased -me.[40] He seems to think much of having had the honour of -corresponding with sundry of the small literati of London. _Je lui en -fais mon compliment._ When he was gone, wrote another letter to ----; -journal, and now to bed. - - -_Monday, 15th._ - -Rose at eight; took a hot bath. The more I read of Grahame, the better I -like him and his history. Those early settlers in Massachusetts were -fine fellows, indeed; and Cotton, one of the finest samples of a -Christian priest imaginable. After breakfast, went to rehearsal. The day -was cold, but beautifully bright and clear. The pure, fresh, -invigorating air, and gay sunlight, together with the delightfully clean -streets, and pretty mixture of trees and buildings in this nice town, -caused me to rejoice, as I walked along.[41] After rehearsal, saw -Sinclair and his wife. So--we are to act the Gamester here. Went and -ordered a dress for that same, my own being at New York. Came home, put -out things for the theatre, practised an hour; dined at three. After -dinner, read a canto in Dante: he is my admiration!--great, great -master!--a philosopher profound, as all poets should be; a glorious -poet, as I wish all philosophers were. Sketched till dark. Chose a -beautiful claret-coloured velvet for Mrs. Beverley, which will cost Miss -Kemble eleven guineas, by this living light. At six, went to the -theatre. I never beheld any thing more gorgeous than the sky at sunset. -Autumn is an emperor here, clothed in crimson and gold, and canopied -with ruddy glowing skies. Yet I like the sad russet cloak of our own -autumnal woods; I like the sighing voice of his lament through the -vaporous curtain that rises round his steps; I like the music of the -withered leaves that rustle in his path; and oh, above all, the solemn -thoughts that wait upon him, as he goes stripping the trees of their -bright foliage, leaving them like the ungarlanded columns of a deserted -palace. The play was Romeo and Juliet. My father was the "youngest of -that name," for want of a better, or, rather, of a worse. How beautiful -this performance must have been, when the youthful form made that appear -natural which now seems the triumph of art over nature. Garrick said, -that to act Romeo required a grey head upon green shoulders. Indeed, -'tis difficult! Oh, that our sapient judges did but know half how -difficult. It is delightful to act with my father. One's imagination -need toil but little, to see in him the very thing he represents; -whereas, with all other Romeos, although they were much younger men, I -have had to do double work with that useful engine, my fancy: first, to -get rid of the material obstacle staring me in the face, and then to -substitute some more congenial representative of that sweetest vision of -youth and love. Once, only, this was not necessary. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The audience here are, without exception, the most disagreeable I ever -played to. Not a single hand did they give the balcony scene, or my -father's scene with the friar: they are literally immovable. They -applauded vehemently at the end of my draught scene, and a great deal at -the end of the play; but they are, nevertheless, intolerably dull; and -it is all but impossible to act to them. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The man who acted Capulet did it better than any Capulet I ever acted -with; and the nurse, besides looking admirably, acted her part very -well: and 'tis hard to please me, after poor dear old Mrs. Davenport. -The house was literally crammed from floor to ceiling. Came home tired -and hoarse; though my voice was a good deal better to-day. Mr. ----- supped with us. My father expected a visit from the haggling Boston -manager, and chose to have a witness to the conference. - - -_Tuesday, 16th._ - -Rose at nine. After breakfast, read a canto in Dante; wrote journal; -practised for an hour. The Boston manager, it seems, does not approve of -our terms; and after bargaining till past two o'clock last night with my -father, the latter, wearied out with his illiberal trafficking, and -coarse vulgarity of manner, declined the thing altogether: so, unless -the gentleman thinks better of the matter, we shall not go to Boston -this winter.[42] At one o'clock, habited; and at two, rode out with my -father. The day was most enchanting, mild, bright, and sunny; but the -roads were deplorable, and the country utterly dull. My horse was a -hard-mouthed half broken beast, without pace of any christian kind -soever; a perfect rack on hoofs: how it did jog and jumble me! However, -my bones are young, and my courage good, and I don't mind a little hard -work; but the road was so villanously bad, and the surrounding country -so weary, dull, stale, and unprofitable, that I was heartily sick of my -ride, when we turned towards Fairmount, the site of some large -water-works on the Schuylkill, by which Philadelphia is supplied with -water. On our right I descried, over some heights, a castellated -building of some extent, whose formidable appearance at least bespoke an -arsenal; but it was the entrance to the Penitentiary instead: and -presently the river, bright, and broad, and placid as a lake, with its -beautiful banks, and rainbow-tinted woods, opened upon us. We crossed a -covered wooden bridge, and followed the water's edge. The rich colours -of the foliage cast a warm light over the transparent face of the -mirror-like stream; and, far along the winding shores, a mingled mantle -of gorgeous glowing tints lay over the woody banks, and was reflected in -the still sunny river. Indeed, it was lovely! But our time was growing -short, and we had to turn home; which we did by a pleasant and more -direct path. My horse, towards the end of the ride, got more manageable; -and I doubt whether it would not be wiser to continue to ride it than -try another, which may be just as bad, and, moreover, a _stranger_. My -riding-cap seemed to excite universal marvel wherever we passed. We came -in at five o'clock; dressed, and dined. Just as I had finished dinner, a -most beautiful, fragrant, and delicious nosegay was brought to me, with -a very laconic note from a Philadelphia "_friend_," dashed under, as -though from a Quaker. Whoever 'tis from, Jew or Gentile, Puritan or -Pagan, he, she, or it hath my most unbounded gratitude. Spent an -ecstatic half hour in arranging my flowers in glasses; gave orders about -my Mrs. Beverley's gown, and began marking journal; while doing so, a -card was brought up. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Presently Mr. ---- came in, another of our Pacific fellow-sailors. It -pleases me to see them: they seem to bring me nearer to England. He gave -a dreadful account of his arrival in Baltimore, and of the state to -which the cholera had reduced that city. Mr. ---- amused me, by telling -me that he had heard my behaviour canvassed with much censure by some -man or other, who met me at Mr. ----'s, and who was horrified at my -taking up a book, and then a newspaper, and, in short, being neither -tragical nor comical, at a dinner-party. Of course, I must seem a very -strange animal to them all; but they seem just as strange to me. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Wednesday, 17th._ - -Rose at eight. After breakfast, put out things for the theatre. At -eleven, went to rehearsal. It seems there has been fighting, and -rushing, and tearing of coats at the box-office; and one man has made -forty dollars by purchasing and reselling tickets at an increased price. -After rehearsal, came home. Mr. ---- called, and sat some time: he sails -for England on the twenty-fourth. England, oh England!--yet, after all, -what is there in that name? It is not my home; it is not those beloved -ones' whose fellowship is half the time what we call _home_. Is it -really and truly the yearning of the roots for the soil in which they -grew? Perhaps it is only the restless roving spirit, that still would be -where it is not. I know not. His description of American life and -manners (and he knows both, for he has lived constantly in this country, -and his particularities are, I believe, fairly divided between it and -his own,) is any thing but agreeable. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The dignified and graceful influence which married women, among us, -exercise over the tone of manners, uniting the duties of home to the -charms of social life, and bearing, at once, like the orange-tree, the -fair fruits of maturity with the blossoms of their spring, is utterly -unknown here. Married women are either house-drudges and nursery-maids, -or, if they appear in society, comparative ciphers; and the retiring, -modest, youthful bearing, which among us distinguishes girls of fifteen -or sixteen, is equally unknown. Society is entirely led by chits, who in -England would be sitting behind a pinafore; the consequence is, that it -has neither the elegance, refinement, nor the propriety which belongs to -ours; but is a noisy, rackety, vulgar congregation of flirting boys and -girls, alike without style or decorum.[43] When Mr. ---- was gone, -practised till dinner-time. After dinner, practised for half an hour; -marked journal, till time to go to the theatre; took coffee, and away. -The house was crammed again, and the play better acted than I have ever -seen it out of London, though Mrs. Candour had stuck upon her head a -bunch of feathers which threatened the gods; and Lady Sneerwell had -dragged all her hair off her face, which needed to be as pretty as it -was, to endure such an exposure. I do not wonder the New Yorkians did -not approve of my Lady Teazle. If, as ---- tells me, Mrs. ---- is their -idea of the perfection of good-breeding, well may my delineation of a -lady be condemned as "nothing particular." Yet I am sorry I must -continue to lie under their censure, for I, unfortunately for myself, -have seen ladies, "ripe and real," who, from all I can see, hear, and -understand, differ widely from the good manners of their "beau ideal." -The fact is, I am not "_genteel_" enough, and I am conscious of it. The -play went off remarkably well. Came to bed at half-past eleven. - - * * * * * - - -_Thursday, 18th._ - -Here is the end of October, the very mourning-time of the year with us, -and my room is full of flowers, and the sun is so bright and powerful, -that it is impossible to go out with a shawl, or without a parasol. Went -to rehearsal at twelve; at two, came in and habited; and at half-past -two, rode out with my father. We took the road to the Schuylkill at -once, through Arch Street, which is a fine, broad, long street, running -parallel with Chestnut Street. We walked along the road under the -intense sunlight that made all things look sleepy around. Turning -between some rising banks, through a defile where the road wound up a -hill, we caught a glimpse of a white house standing on the sunny slope -of a green rise. The undulating grounds around were all bathed in warm -light, relieved only by the massy shadows of the thick woods that -sheltered them. It was a bit of England. - - * * * * * - -Some good farming and tidy out-houses, and dependencies, completed the -resemblance, and made me think that this must be the dwelling of some of -my own country people. How can they live here? Here, even in the midst -of what is fair and peaceful in nature, I think my home would haunt me, -and the far-off chiming of the waves against her white shores resound in -my ears through the smooth flowing of the Schuylkill.[44] After pursuing -a level uninteresting road for some time, we turned off to the right, -and, standing on the brow of a considerable declivity, had a most -enchanting glimpse of the Schuylkill and its woody shores. The river -makes a bend just above the water-works, and the curving banks scooping -themselves form a lovely little sunny bay. It was more like a lake, just -here, than a flowing stream. The sky was so blessedly serene, and the -air so still, that the pure deep-looking water appeared to sleep, while -the bright hues of the heavens, and the glowing lints of the woody -shores, were mirrored with wondrous vividness on its bosom. I never saw -such gorgeousness, and withal such perfect harmony of colouring. The -golden sky, the mingled green, brown, yellow, crimson, and dark maroon, -that clothed the thickets; the masses of grey granite, with the vivid -mossy green that clung round them; the sunny purple waters; the warm red -colour of the road itself, as it wound down below, with a border of -fresh-looking turf on either side of it; the radiant atmosphere of rosy -light that hung over all; all combined to present a picture of perfect -enchantment. The eye was drunk with beauty.[45] How I though t of Mr. -----. Indeed a painter would have gone crazy over it, and I, who am not -a painter, was half crazy that I was not. Though if I had been, what -would it have availed? Such colours are from God's pallet, and mortal -hand may no more copy, than it could mingle them. We rode on through -scenery of the same description, passing in our way a farm and dairy, -where the cattle were standing, not in open pastureland, but in a corner -of forest-ground, all bright with the golden shedding of the trees; it -was very picturesque. A little runlet of water, too, that held the -middle of a tangled ravine, ran glittering like a golden snake through -the underwood, while the stems of the trees, and the light foliage on -the edge of the thick woody screens, were bathed in yellow sunshine. All -around was beautiful, and rich, and harmonious to the eye, and should -have been so to the spirit. - - * * * * * - -Returned home at about half-past five, dined at six; found another -beautiful nosegay waiting for me, from my unknown furnisher of sweets. -This is almost as tantalising as it is civil; and I would give half my -lovely flowers to find out who sends them to me. Distributed them all -over the room, and was as happy as a queen. Mr. ---- called. My father -was obliged to go out upon business, so D---- and I had to entertain -that worthy youth. He seems to have a wonderful veneration for a parcel -of scribblers, whose names were never heard of in England, beyond the -limits of their own narrow coteries. But he speaks like an enthusiast of -the woods and waters of his glorious country, and I excuse his taste in -poetry. Now isn't this strange, that a man who can feel the amazing -might, majesty, and loveliness of nature, can endure for a moment the -mawkish scribbling of these poetasters? Verily, we be anomalous beasts. - - * * * * * - - -AUTUMN. - - Thou comest not in sober guise, - In mellow cloak of russet clad-- - Thine are no melancholy skies, - Nor hueless flowers pale and sad; - But, like an emperor, triumphing, - With gorgeous robes of Tyrian dyes, - Full flush of fragrant blossoming, - And glowing purple canopies. - How call ye this the season's fall, - That seems the pageant of the year, - Richer and brighter far than all - The pomp that spring and summer wear? - Red falls the westering light of day - On rock and stream and winding shore; - Soft woody banks and granite grey - With amber clouds are curtain'd o'er; - The wide clear waters sleeping lie - Beneath the evening's wings of gold, - And on their glassy breast the sky - And banks their mingled hues unfold. - Far in the tangled woods, the ground - Is strewn with fallen leaves, that lie - Like crimson carpets all around - Beneath a crimson canopy. - The sloping sun with arrows bright - Pierces the forest's waving maze; - The universe seems wrapt in light,-- - A floating robe of rosy haze. - Oh, Autumn! thou art here a king; - And round thy throne the smiling Hours - A thousand fragrant tributes bring - Of golden fruits and blushing flowers. - - Oh, not upon thy fading fields and fells - In such rich garb doth Autumn come to thee, - My home!--but o'er thy mountains and thy dells - His footsteps fall slowly and solemnly. - Nor flower nor bud remaineth there to him, - Save the faint-breathing rose, that, round the year - Its crimson buds and pale soft blossoms dim - In lowly beauty constantly doth wear. - O'er yellow stubble lands, in mantle brown, - He wanders through the wan October light; - Still, as he goeth, slowly stripping down - The garlands green that were the Spring's delight. - At morn and eve thin silver vapours rise - Around his path; but sometimes at mid-day - He looks along the hills with gentle eyes, - That make the sallow woods and fields seem gay. - Yet something of sad sovereignty he hath-- - A sceptre crown'd with berries ruby red; - And the cold sobbing wind bestrews his path - With wither'd leaves that rustle 'neath his tread; - And round him still, in melancholy state, - Sweet solemn thoughts of death and of decay, - In slow and hush'd attendance, ever wait, - Telling how all things fair must pass away. - - -_Tuesday, 23d._ - -At ten o'clock, went to rehearsal. Rehearsed the Hunchback, and then -Fazio: this is tolerably hard work, with acting every night: we don't -steal our money, that's one comfort. Came home, found a letter for me in -a strange hand. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Went on with my letter to ----: while doing so, was interrupted by the -entrance of a strange woman, who sat herself down, apparently in much -confusion. She told me a story of great distress, and claimed my -assistance as a fellow-countrywoman. I had not a farthing of money: -D---- and my father were out; so I took the reference she gave me, and -promised to enquire into her condition. The greatest evil arising from -the many claims of this sort which are made upon us, wherever we go, is -the feeling of distrust and suspicion which they engender, and the sort -of excuse which they teach us to apply plausibly to our unwillingness to -answer such demands. "Oh, ten to one, an impostor," is soon said, and -instances enough may unfortunately be found to prove the probability of -such a conclusion. Yet in this sweeping condemnation one real case of -misery may be included, and that possibility should make us pause, for -'tis one that, if afterwards detected, may be the source of heavy -condemnation, and bitter regret to ourselves.[46] - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The fact is, that, to give well, one should give equally one's trouble -with one's money: the one in all cases, the other where one's enquiries -are satisfactorily answered.--Received a purple-bound gilt-edged -periodical, published at Boston, from Mr. ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The literary part of the book seems much on a par with that of similar -works in England, but there was a wide difference in the excellence of -the engravings. There was one from that pretty picture, the -Bride's-Maid; a coarse bad engraving, but yet how much of the sadness of -the original it recalled to me! It is a painful thing to look at: it -brings before one too much of the sorrow of life, of the anguish that -has been endured, that is daily, hourly, endured, in this prison-house -of torments. After dinner, went on writing to ----, till time to go to -the theatre. The house was not as full as I had expected, though a good -one enough. My father looked wonderfully well and young: there is -certainly some difference in acting with him; but this part fatigues me -horribly. - - -_Wednesday, 24th._ - -Went to rehearsal at eleven; at half-past one, went with D---- to find -out something about my yesterday's poor woman. The worst of it is, that -my trouble involves necessarily the trouble of somebody else, as I -cannot go trotting and exploring about by myself. The references were -sufficiently satisfactory, that is, they proved that she was poor, and -in distress, and willing to work. I gave her what I could, and the man -by whom she is employed seems anxious to afford her work: so I hope she -will get on a little. The "God bless you," of gratitude, even if uttered -by guileful and unworthy lips, is surely yet a blessing if it alights on -those who are seeking to do good. And if I were assured that that woman -was the veriest impostor under the sun, I still should hope her prayer -might descend with profit on my head; for I was sincere in my desire to -do well by her. Came home, wrote a letter to ----, finished one to ----; -and went to the theatre. It seems there have been - - - "Bloody noses and crack'd crowns, - And all the currents of a heady fight," - - -at the box-office, and truly the house bore witness thereto; for it was -crammed from floor to ceiling. The play was the Hunchback. I played very -well, in spite of no green carpet, and no letter in the letter scene, -which lost one of my favourite points; one, by the by, that I am fond -of, because it is all my own. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Thursday, 25th._ - -After breakfast, went to rehearsal. Came home, put out things for the -theatre, made myself a belt; received a whole bundle of smart annuals -from Mr. ----; spent some time in looking over their engravings. My gown -looked very handsome, but my belt was too small; had to make another. -The house was good, but not great. I played only so-so: the fact is, it -is utterly impossible to play to this audience at all. They are so -immovable, such very stocks and stones, that one is fairly exhausted -with labouring to excite them, before half one's work is done. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -AUTUMN SONG. - - The merriest time of all the year - Is the time when the leaves begin to fall, - When the chestnut-trees turn yellow and sear, - And the flowers are withering one and all; - - When the thick green sward is growing brown, - And the honeysuckle berries are red, - And the oak is shaking its acorns down, - And the dry twigs snap' neath the woodman's tread. - - The merriest dance that e'er was seen - Is the headlong dance of the whirling leaves, - And the rattling stubble that flies between - The yellow ranks of the barley sheaves. - - The merriest song that e'er was heard - Is the song of the sobbing autumn wind; - When the thin bare boughs of the elm are stirr'd, - And shake the black ivy round them twined. - - The merriest time of all the year - Is the time when all things fade and fall, - When the sky is bleak, and the earth is drear, - Oh, that's the merriest month of all. - - -_Friday, 26th._ - -While I was dressing, D----, like a good angel, came in with three -letters from England in her hand. - - * * * * * - -The love of excellent friends is one of God's greatest blessings, and -deserves our utmost thankfulness. The counsel of sound heads and the -affection of Christian spirits is a staff of support, and a spring of -rejoicing through life. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -A Mr., Mrs., and young Mr. ----, called upon us: they are the only -inhabitants of this good city who have done us that honour. - - * * * * * - -As soon as my father came in, we sallied forth to see the giantess of a -ship the Americans have been building, to thresh us withal. I hooked -myself up to ----, and away we strode; D---- and my father struggling -after us, as best they might. The day was most beautiful; bright, sunny, -and fresh. After walking at an immense pace for some time, we bethought -us of looking for our _poursuivants_; but neither sign nor vestige -appeared of them. We stood still and waited, and went on, and stood -still again. ---- looked foolish at me, and I foolish at him: at length -we wisely agreed that they had probably made the best of their way to -the Navy-yard, and thither we proceeded. We found them, according to our -expectations, waiting for us, and proceeded to enter the building where -this lady of the seas was propped upon a hundred stays, surrounded with -scaffolding, with galleries running round from the floor to the ceiling. -We went on deck; in fact, the Pennsylvania has been boarded by the -English in our person, before she sets foot on the sea. How I should -like to see that ship launched; how she will sweep down from her -holdings, and settle to the water, as a swan before swimming out! How -the shores will resound with living voices, applauding her like a living -creature; how much of national pride, of anticipated triumph, will be -roused in every heart, as her huge wings first unfold their shadow over -the sea, and she moves abroad, the glory and the wonder of the deep! -How, if this ship should ever lie in an English harbour! If I were an -American on board of her, I would sooner blow her up, with all the -"precious freighting souls" within her, than see such a consummation. -When my wonderment had a little subsided, it occurred to me that she -would not, perhaps, be so available a battle-ship as one of a smaller -size: it must be impossible to manoeuvre her with any promptitude. - - * * * * * - -My father and ---- indulged in sundry right English bits of bragging, as -they stood at her stern, looking down the enormous deck. I wish I knew -her exact measurements: she is the largest ship ever built, larger than -any East Indiaman; the largest ship in the world. How the sea will groan -under her; nathless in a storm I would rather be in the veriest nutshell -that ever was flung from wave-top to wave-top. How she would sink! she -would go down like another Atlantis, poor ship! I have an amazing horror -of drowning. Came home just in time to dine. After dinner, wrote -letters; at six, went to the theatre; play, Hunchback; played so-so: the -audience are detestable. The majority are so silent that they not only -do not applaud the acting, but most religiously forbear to notice all -noises in the house, in consequence of which some impudent women amused -themselves with talking during the whole play, much "louder than the -players." At one time their impertinent racket so bewildered me, that I -was all but out, and this without the audience once interfering to -silence them; perhaps, however, that would have been an unwarrantable -interference with the sacred liberties of the people. I indulged them -with a very significant glance; and at one moment was most strongly -tempted to request them to hold their tongues. - - -_Saturday, 27th._ - -The poor sick lady, whose pretty children I met running about the -stairs, sent to say she should be very glad if I would go in and see -her: I had had sundry inward promptings to this effect before, but was -withheld by the real English dread of intruding. At eleven, went to -rehearsal: on my return, called on Mrs. ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -She interested me most extremely: I would have stayed long with her, -but feared she might exhaust herself by the exertion of conversing. On -my return to my own room, I sent her Mr. ----'s annuals, and the volume -of Mrs. Hemans's poetry he lent me. Began practising, when in walked -that interesting youth, Mr. ----, with a nosegay, as big as himself, in -his hand. Flowers,--sweet blooming, fresh, delicious flowers,--in the -last days of October; the very sackcloth season of the year. How they do -rejoice my spirit. He sat some time, making most excessively fine -speeches to me: while he was here, arrived another bouquet from my -unknown friend; how nice, to be sure! all but not knowing who they come -from. When my visiter was gone, wrote to ---- till dinner-time. After -dinner, spent nearly the whole afternoon in dressing my pretty flowers. -Sent some of them in to Mrs. ----. I don't know why, but it seemed a sad -present to make to her; for I almost fear she will never see the -blossoms of another year. Yet why do I say that?--is not heaven brighter -than even this flowery earth? - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Finished my letter to ----; went to the theatre. My benefit: the -Provoked Husband. The house was very good. I played so-so, and looked -very nice. What fine breeding this play is, to be sure: it is quite -refreshing to act it; but it must be heathen Greek to the American -_exclusives_, I should think. - - -_Sunday, 28th._ - -Had only time to swallow a mouthful of breakfast, and off to church. I -must say it requires a deal of fortitude to go into an American church: -there are no pew-openers, and the people appear to rush indifferently -into any seats that are vacant. We went into a pew where there were two -women and a man, who did not take up one half of it; but who, -nevertheless, looked most ungracious at our coming into it. They did not -move to make way or accommodate us, but remained, with very discourteous -unchristian-like sulkiness, spread over twice as much space as they -required. The spirit of independence seems to preside paramount, even in -the house of God. This congregation, by frequenting an Episcopalian -temple, evidently professed the form of faith of the English church; yet -they neither uttered the responses, nor observed any one of the -directions in the Common Prayer-book. Thus, during portions of the -worship where kneeling is enjoined, they sat or stood; and while the -Creed was being read, half the auditors were reclining comfortably in -their pews: the same thing with the Psalms, and all parts of the -service. I suppose their love of freedom will not suffer them to be -amenable to forms, or wear the exterior of humbleness and homage, even -in the house of the Most High God.[47] The whole appearance of the -congregation was that of indifference, indolence, and irreverence, and -was highly displeasing to my eye. After church, came home, and began -writing to ----. ---- called. He sat some time mending pens for me; and -at half-past one D----, he, and I packed ourselves into a coach, and -proceeded on to Fair Mount, where we got out, and left the coach to wait -for us. The day was bright and bitter cold: the keen spirit-like wind -came careering over the crisping waters of the broad river, and carried -across the cloudless blue sky the golden showers from the shivering -woods. They had not lost their beauty yet; though some of their crimson -robes were turned to palest yellow, and through the thin foliage the -dark boughs and rugged barks showed distinctly, yet the sun shone -joyfully on them, and they looked beautiful still; and so did the water, -curled into a thousand mimic billows, that came breaking their crystal -heads along the curving shore, which, with its shady indentings and -bright granite promontories, seemed to lock the river in, and gave it -the appearance of a lovely lake. We took the tow-path, by D----'s -desire; but found (alas, that it is ever so!) that it was distance lent -enchantment to the view. For, though it was very pretty, it had lost -some of the beauty it seemed to wear, when we looked down upon it from -the woody heights that skirt the road. - -On we went, ---- and I moderating our strides to keep pace with D----; -and she, puffing, panting, and struggling on to keep pace with us; yet I -was perished, and she was half melted: like all compromises, it was but -a botched business. The wind was deliciously fresh; and I think, as we -buffeted along in its very face, we should have made an admirable -subject for Bunbury. I, with my bonnet off, my combs out, and all my -hair flying about, hooked up to ----, who, willow-like, bent over me, to -facilitate my reaching his arm. D---- following in the rear, her cap and -hair half over her face, her shawl and clothes fluttering in the blast, -her cheeks the colour of crimson, which, relieved by her green bonnet, -whose sides she grappled tightly down to balk the wind, had much the -effect of a fine carnation bursting its verdant sheath. I never saw any -thing half so absurd in my life, as we all looked. Yet it was very -pleasant and wholesome, good for soul and body. After walking for some -time, I asked D---- the hour. It was three, and we were to dine at four, -in order to accommodate the servants, who, in this land of liberty, make -complete slaves of their masters. Horror took possession of us,--how -were we ever to get back in time? To turn back was hopeless: the endless -curvings of the shore, however much we had admired their graceful -sinuosities before, would now have appeared abominable to our -straight-forward designs of home, so we agreed to climb the hill and -take the upper road--and what a hill it was!--the sun poured his intense -rays down upon it; and, what with the heat and the wind, and the steep -path-way, I thought poor D---- would have died. We turned once as we -reached the summit, and I never saw any thing more lovely than the scene -we were leaving behind us. The beautiful blue water winding far away -between its woody shores; close below the hill, a small reed-crowned -island lying like a gem on the bright river, and a little beyond, the -unfinished arches of a white bridge: the opposite shores were bathed -with the evening light, and far away the varied colours of the autumnal -woods were tinged with the golden glory of sunset. But we were pursued -by the thought of four o'clock, and paused but a moment. On we -struggled, and at last my frozen blood began to warm; and by the time we -reached the carriage, I was in a fine glow. Certainly exercise is, in -itself, very delightful, but in scenes like these it is doubly so: the -spirit is roused to activity by the natural beauties around, and the -fancy and feelings seem to acquire vigour from the quick circulation of -the blood, and the muscular energy of the limbs; it is highly -excellent.[48] We jumped into the coach, adjured the man by all the -saints in the calendar to put wings to his chariot wheels, and sat -concocting plausible lies, by way of excuses, all the way home. At last -we hit upon an admirable invention. The cause of our being so late was -to be, that we stopped to render our assistance in reviving an -unfortunate young woman (a lovely creature, of course), who had thrown -herself into the Schuylkill, in consequence of some love disappointment, -and who was withdrawn just in time to be preserved. ---- was to tell -this story with the gravest face he could summon for the occasion, while -we went up to dress, and when we came down we were to corroborate his -statement as correctly as good chance might enable us. We dressed in -half a minute, and found Mr. ---- sitting with my father, and ---- -looking amazingly demure. It seemed, however, that no remark had been -made, nor question asked, about our protracted perambulations, so that -we had actually thrown away all our ingenuity. This vexed me so much, -that in the middle of dinner I introduced the topic of drowning, and, -with a lamentable face, related the circumstance; but, alas! one of my -auditors was occupied with a _matelotte d'anguilles_, another with an -oyster _vol-au-vent_, and all the pretty girls in creation might have -been drowned, without the loss in any degree affecting the evident -satisfaction which the above subjects of meditation seemed to afford the -gentlemen: what selfish brutes men are! shocking. Our invention was thus -twice thrown away: one said "Humph!" and the other "Ha!" and that was -the extent of their sympathy. After dinner, came up to my own room, lay -down, and fairly slept till coffee was announced. Came down with half an -eye open, and found the circle augmented by the delectable presence of -Mr. ----. What an original that youth is! They talked politics, abused -republicanism, lauded aristocracy, drank tea, took snuff, ate cakes, and -pottered a deal. My father was going fast asleep, ---- was making a -thousand signs to me to go to the piano, when Mr. ---- rose to depart: -the other gentlemen took the hint, and left us at half-past ten. - - -_Tuesday, 30th._ - -At eleven o'clock, went to rehearsal: came home, began letter to ----. -Called with my father upon Mrs. ----: the servant committed that -awfullest of blunders, letting one into the house, and then finding out -that nobody was at home.[49] Came home, practised for some time: all of -a sudden the door opened, and in walked Colonel ---- with my father. He -had just arrived from New York. He dined with us. After dinner, finished -letter to ----. At six, went to the theatre. The house was very good; -play, Much Ado about Nothing. I played well; but what an audience it is! -I have been often recommended, in cases of nervousness on the stage, to -consider the audience as just so many cabbages, and, indeed, a small -stretch of fancy would enable me to do so here. Colonel ---- supped with -us. Found an invitation to dinner from the ----. "One exception makes a -rule," say the scholars; by that same token, therefore, the -Philadelphians are about the most inhospitable set of people it ever was -my good fortune to fall in with.[50] - -Towards the end of supper, we fell into a strange discussion as to the -nature of existence. A vain and fruitless talk, after all; for life -shall be happy or sad, not, indeed, according to its events, but -according to the nature of the individuals to whom these events befall. -Colonel ---- maintained that life was in itself desirable; abounding in -blessings, replete with comforts, a fertile land, where still, as one -joy decays, another springs up to flourish in its place. He said that he -felt thankful every day, and every hour of the day, for his existence; -that he feared death, only because life was an absolute enjoyment, and -that he would willingly, to-morrow, accept the power of beginning his -again, even though he should be placed on the world's threshold, a -lonely friendless beggar: so sure was he that his prospects would -brighten, and friends spring up to him, and plenty reward labour, and -life become pleasant, ere it had grown many years old. How widely human -beings differ! It was but an hour before, that I, in counting how many -stars I had already seen go down below the horizon of existence,--Weber, -Lawrence, Scott, all of whom I have known,--was saying to D----, "How -sad a thing, and strange, life is!" adding, what I repent me for, "I -wish that I were dead!" Oh, how can any human being, who looks abroad -into the world, and within upon himself, who sees the wondrous mystery -of all things, the unabidingness which waits on all matter, the -imperfection which clogs all spirit; who notes the sovereignty of change -over the inanimate creation, of disease, decay, and death over man's -body, of blindness and delusion over his mind, of sin over his soul; who -beholds the frailty of good men; who feels the miserable inconsistency -of his own nature; the dust and ashes of which our love, and what we -love, is made; the evil that, like an unwholesome corpse, still clings -to our good; the sorrow that, like its shadow, still walks behind our -joy;--oh, who that sees all this can say that this life is other than -sad--most sad? Yet, while I write this, God forbid that I should -therefore want eyes to see, or sense to feel, the blessings wherewith he -has blessed it; the rewards with which he sweetens our task, the flowers -wherewith he cheers our journey's road, the many props wherewith he -supports our feet in it. Yet of all these, the sweetest, the brightest, -the strongest, are those which our soul draws from him, the end of its -desire, not those it finds here. And how should not that spirit yearn -for its accomplishment? If we seek knowledge here, a thousand mists -arise between our incapable senses and the truth, how, then, should we -not wish to cast away this darkness, and soar to the fountains of all -light? If we strive to employ those faculties which, being of our soul, -have the strength and enduring of immortality, the objects whereon we -expend them here are vague, evanescent, disappointing; how then should -we not desire to find food for our capacities, abiding as themselves? If -we long to love--ah, are not the creatures in whom we centre our -affections frail, capable of change; perishable, born to decay? How then -should we not look with unutterable yearning for that life where -affection is unchangeable, eternal? Surely, if all the hopes, the fears, -the aims, the tendings of our soul, have but their beginning here, it is -most natural, it is most fitting, to turn to that future where they -shall be fulfilled. But there lies a road between. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -A break--a break--a break! So much the better; for the two last days -have been nothing but annoyance, hard work, and heartach. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Friday, November 2d._ - -A bright sunny day; too hot for a fire; windows open, shutters closed, -and the room full of flowers. How the sweet summer-time stays lingering -here. Found Colonel ---- in the drawing-room. After breakfast, began -writing to ----. Mr. ---- called: he stayed but a short time, and went -out with Colonel ----. My father went out soon after, and I began to -practise. Mrs. ---- came in and sat with me: she played to me, and sang -"Should those fond hopes ever leave thee." Her voice was as thin as her -pale transparent hands. She appeared to me much better than when last I -saw her; but presently told me she had just been swallowing eighty drops -of laudanum, poor thing! When she was gone, went on practising, and -writing, till my father came home. Walked with him and D---- to call on -old Lady ----. The day was so hot that I could scarcely endure my boa. -The election was going on; the streets full of rabblement, the air full -of huzzaing, and the sky obscured with star-spangled banners, and -villanous transparencies of "Old Hickory,"[51] hung out in all -directions. We went round the Town-House, and looked at the window out -of which Jefferson read the Act of Independence, that proclaimed the -separation between England and America.[52] Called at a music-shop, -tossed over heaps of music, bought some, and ordered some to be sent -home for me to look over. Came home, put out things for the theatre. -Dined at three. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Received another beautiful nosegay. After dinner, went on with letter to -----; tried over my music; Heber's song that I wanted is not among them. -At six, went to the theatre. The sunset was glorious, the uprising of -the moon most beautiful. There is an intensity, an earnestness, about -the colour of the sky, and the light of its bright inhabitants here, -that is lovely and solemn, beyond any thing I ever saw. Can Italy have -brighter heavens than these? surely nothing can exceed the beauty of -these days and nights. We were obliged to go all manner of roundabouts -to the play-house, in order to avoid the rabble that choked up the -principal streets. I, by way of striking salutary awe into the hearts of -all rioters who might come across our path, brandished my father's sword -out of the coach window the whole way along. The play was Venice -Preserved; my father played Jaffier. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I played pretty well. The house was very good; but at the end I really -was half dead. - - * * * * * - -On our return home, met a procession of electioneerers carrying -triangular paper lanterns upon poles, with "sentiments" political -scribbled thereon, which, however, I could not distinguish. Found a most -exquisite nosegay waiting for me at home, so sweet, so brilliant, so -fragrant and fresh. - - * * * * * - -Found nothing for supper that I could fancy. Drank some tea, wrote -journal. Colonel ---- came in after supper, and wondered that I had -played better to my father's Jaffier than to Mr. Keppel's. Heaven bless -the world, for a _conglomerated amalgamation_ of fools! - - -_Monday, 5th._ - -Guy Fawkes' day, and no squibs, no firing of pistols, no bonfires, nor -parading about of ferocious-looking straw men. Ah! these poor people -never had a king and two houses of parliament, and don't know what a -mercy it is they weren't blown up before they passed the reform bill. -Now if such an accident should occur to them, they'd all be sure to be -blown straight into heaven, and hang there. Rose at half-past five. Oh, -I quite agree with the Scotch song, - - - "Up in the morning's na for me, - Up in the morning early; - I'd rather watch a winter's night, - Than rise in the morning early." - - -Dressed myself by candlelight. Mrs. ---- sent in to ask me if I would -see her, but I had not time. Sent her a note, and received, in exchange, -the seed of what I suspect is the wood laurel, common in this country, -but unknown in ours. Started from the Mansion House (which is a very -nice inn, kept by the civilest of people,) at six, and reached the quay -just in time to meet the first rosy breaking of the clouds over the -Delaware. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I am sorry to leave Philadelphia. I like the town, and the little I have -seen of its inhabitants, very much; I mean in private, for they are -intolerable audiences. There is an air of stability, of well-to-do, and -occasionally of age, in the town, that reminds me of England. Then, as -far as my yesterday's dinner will allow me to judge, I should say, that -not only the style of living but the society was superior to that which -I saw in New York. Certainly, both the entertainment itself, and the -guests, were irreproachable; the first was in very good taste, the -latter appeared to me well-informed, and very agreeable. The morning, in -spite of all ----'s persuasive prophecies, was beautiful beyond -description. The river like the smoothest glass. The sky was bright and -cloudless, and along the shores, the distinctness with which each -smallest variation of form, or shade of colour, was reflected in the -clear mirror of the Delaware was singularly beautiful and fairy-like. -The tints of the woods were what no words can convey the slightest idea -of. Now, a whole tract of withered oaks, of a red brick hue, like a -forest scorched with fire; now, a fresh thicket of cedars of the -brightest green; then, wide screens of mingled trees, where the foliage -was one gorgeous mixture of vermilion, dark maroon, tender green, golden -yellow, and deep geranium. The whole land at a distance appearing to lie -under an atmosphere of glowing colour, richer than any crimson mantle -that ever clothed the emperors of the olden world; all this illuminated -by a sun, which we should have thought too hot for June. It was very -beautiful. I did not, however, see much of it, for I was overcome with -fatigue, and slept both in the steam-boat and in the stage-coach. When -we embarked on the Raritan, I had intended lying down in the cabin, and -taking my sleep fairly out, but the jolting of those bitter roads had -made every one of the women sick, and the cabin was horrible beyond -expression. Came up on deck, and worked till within a quarter of a mile -of New York, when I went on the upper deck, and walked about with -Colonel ----. I asked Captain Seymour how often the engine would strike -in a minute; he told me, thirty-six times. By the by, we had a race, -coming down the Raritan, with the Union steam-boat. The Water Witch beat -her hollow; but she came so near as to make our water rough, and so -impede our progress, that I thought we should have had a concussion; -there is something very exciting in emulation, certainly. The sun went -down in a watery gloomy sky, though the day had been so fine; and when -we got sight of the Narrows, sky, and sea, and land, were all of a dark -leaden hue. Our second landing at New York was rather melancholy: shall -I ever forget the first? Came up to our comfortless quarters at the -American; dressed, and dined, and began finishing my letter to dear -----, when they brought me in another from her, by the packet that has -just come in. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Tuesday, 6th._ - -It poured with rain. Lucky we did not follow ----'s advice, else we -should have been miserably progressing through rain and wretchedness, or -perhaps sticking fast in the mud. Went and took a warm bath; came home, -breakfasted; after breakfast, practised for an hour; finished letter to -----; wrote to my mother; dined at five. After dinner, Colonel ----- called, and very nearly caused a blow-up between me and my father: -he came preaching to me the necessity of restoring those lines of -Bianca's, in the judgment-scene, which were originally omitted, -afterwards restored by me at Milman's request, and again cut out, on -finding that they only lengthened the scene, without producing the -slightest effect. My father appeared perfectly to agree with me, but -added, that I might as well oblige the people. I straightforth said I -would do no such thing. People sitting before the curtain must not come -and tell me what I am to do behind it. Not one out of a hundred, in the -first place, understand what they are talking about; and why, therefore, -am I to alter my work at their suggestion, when each particular scene -has cost me more consideration than they ever bestowed upon any whole -play in all their lives. Besides, it would be with me and my parts as -with the old man, his son, and his ass, in the fable of old; I should -never have done altering, and yet never satisfy any body; for the most -universal talent I know of is that of finding fault. So, all things -well considered, the New Yorkians must e'en be contented with the -judgment of Miss O'Neill, my father, and their obedient humble servant. -Worked till tea-time; after tea, wrote letters till now, bed-time. - - -_Wednesday, 7th._ - -Our breakfast was so bad, none of us could eat any thing. After -breakfast, despatched letters to Mr. ----, for England. Practised for an -hour,--sketched for an hour. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At half-past one, went out with my father to walk on the Battery, while -Colonel ---- and D---- went to ----, to see if we could get decent -lodgings, and wholesome eatables there. The day was melancholy, grey, -cold; with a full fresh wind, whirling the rattling leaves along, and -rippling the leaden waters of the wide estuary that opens before this -beautiful parade. The Jersey shore and Staten Island, with their -withered woods all clothed in their dark warm autumnal hues, at a -distance reminded me of the heathery hills of Scotland; they had that -dark purple richness of colouring. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -D---- and Colonel ---- joined us, and we walked up Broadway together: my -father left me to go with them, and look at our proposed dwelling. It is -all in vain struggling with one's fate; 'tis clear they haven't the most -distant idea of the comforts of life in these parts. Darkness, -dinginess, and narrowness, were the attributes of the apartments into -which we were shown; then, as the Colonel had never eaten in the house, -he did not know what our food might be--pleasant this! _Resolved_, that -we were better off where we are, and so returned to the American. -Sketched and practised for some time longer. Mr. ---- called to go with -my father to Mrs. ----'s, where they were to dine. He certainly is one -of the handsomest men I ever saw; but he looks half dead, and is working -himself to death, it should seem. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -He told me that Boston was the most charming town in America. - - * * * * * - -Put away things, while D---- unpacked them. Dressed for dinner. Dined -at five; afterwards proceeded in the unpacking and stowing away. - - * * * * * - -I was interrupted by the announcement of an incomprehensible cognomen, -which solved itself in the shape of Mr. ----, who walked in, sat down, -and began talking a deal of nonsense. I worked, that I might not go to -sleep. He was most exceedingly odd and dauldrummish, I think he was a -little "how com'd you so indeed." He sat very near me, spoke exceedingly -drowsily, and talked an amazing quantity of thickish philosophy, and -moral and sentimental potter. I bore it as well as I could, till ten -o'clock, when I asked him how long it was "reckoned" discreet, in this -country, to prolong evening visits; whereupon he arose and took his -departure. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Worked at the ornaments of my Bianca dress, finished one, and wrote -journal. - - -_Thursday, 8th._ - - * * * * * - -After breakfast, worked at my dress till late; Mr. ---- called. Put away -goods and chattels; put out things for the theatre. A brother of Mr. ----- called upon us, and sat some time: when he was gone, came back to -my room to finish the ornaments for my dress. This day has been spent in -the thorough surroundings of my vocation; foil stone, glass beads, and -brass tape! ---- came just before dinner; and at the end of it, Colonel ----- called. He read us a paragraph in one of the Philadelphia papers, -upon me, and all my good parts; there was actually a column of them. It -was well written, for I was absolute perfection; excepting, indeed, in -one respect, the hauteur and disdain with which I had treated the -"_rank_ and fashion of Philadelphia." Now this was not true, for, to -speak candidly, I did not know that there were such things as rank and -fashion in all America. However, the article made me laugh extremely, -for, as I could not help observing, "there are real lords and ladies in -my country."[53] - - * * * * * - -Came to my own room,--refurbished my green velvet bonnet. 'Tis a worthy -old thing that, and looks amazingly well. The cold weather is setting in -very bitterly to-day; we were obliged to have a fire. Heard my father -his part: whilst saying it, he received a subpoena on some business -between Mr. ---- and Mr. ----. At a quarter to six, went to the theatre. -Play, Fazio; house very fine; dress like a bonfire. I played well, but -then my father was the Fazio. The people cried abundantly. Mrs. ---- was -shocked at having to play that naughty woman Aldabella (I wish they -would let me try that part); and when the Duke dismissed her in the -last scene, picked up her train, and flounced off in a way that made the -audience for to laugh. Coming home, Mr. ---- overtook us. My father -asked him in, but he excused himself; before, however, we were well -seated, he had repented the refusal, and came rushing back. Colonel ---- -came in, and they both of them supped with us, discussing many matters -of pith. Received a nosegay, as big as myself, of dahlias and other -autumnal flowers. - - * * * * * - -The moon is resplendent! the earth is flooded with her cold -light--beautiful! By the by, _last night_, at three o'clock this -morning, I was awakened by music. It was a military band playing Yankee -Doodle, the national anthem of the Americans, accompanied by the tramp -of a considerable body of men. They took the direction of the Park, and -there halted, when I heard a single voice haranguing for a length of -time, with occasional interruptions of vehement huzzas, and rolling of -drums. And anon, the march struck up again, grew faint, and died into -the stillness of night. - - * * * * * - -I was much bounden to the Jacksonites, who are carrying it by fair means -or foul. One man, I was assured, voted nine times over! He was an -Irishman, and, it is to be presumed, a tailor. - - -_Saturday, 10th._ - -Skipped yesterday: so much the better, for though it began, like May, -with flowers and sunshine, it ended, like December, with the sulks, and -a fit of crying. The former were furnished me by my friends and Heaven, -the latter, by myself and the devil. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At six o'clock, D---- roused me; and grumpily enough I arose. I dressed -myself by candlelight in a hurry. Really, by way of a party of pleasure, -'tis too abominable to get up in the middle of the night this fashion. -At half-past six, Colonel ---- came; and as soon as I could persuade -myself into my clothes, we set off to walk to the quay. Just as we were -nearing the bottom of Barclay Street, the bell rang from the steam-boat, -to summon all loiterers on board; and forthwith we rushed, because in -this country steam and paddles, like wind and tide in others, wait for -no man. We got on board in plenty time, but D---- was nearly killed with -the pace at which we had walked, in order to do so. One of the first -persons we saw was Mr. ----, who was going up to his father's place -beyond West Point, by name Hyde Park, which sounds mighty magnificent. I -did not remain long on the second deck, but ascended to the first with -Colonel ----, and paced to and fro with infinite zeal till -breakfast-time. The morning was grey and sad-looking, and I feared we -should not have a fine day: however, towards eight o'clock, the grey -clouds parted, and the blue serene eyes of heaven looked down upon the -waters; the waves began to sparkle, though the sun had not yet appeared; -the sky was lighter, and faint shadows began to appear beside the -various objects that surrounded us, all which symptoms raised our hopes -of the weather. At eight o'clock, we went down to breakfast. Nobody, who -has not seen it, can conceive the strange aspect of the long room of one -of these fine boats at meal-time. The crowd, the hurry, the confusion of -tongues, like the sound of many waters, the enormous consumption of -eatables, the mingled demands for more, the cloud of black waiters -hovering down the sides of the immense tables, the hungry eager faces -seated at them, form altogether a most amusing subject of contemplation, -and a caricaturist would find ample matter for his vein in almost every -other devouring countenance. As far as regards the speed, safety, and -convenience with which these vessels enable one to perform what would be -in any other conveyance most fatiguing journeys, they are admirable -inventions. The way in which they are conducted, too, deserves the -highest commendation. Nothing can exceed the comfort with which they are -fitted up, the skill with which they are managed, and the order and -alacrity with which passengers are taken up from, or landed at, the -various points along the river. The steamer goes at the rate of fifteen -miles an hour; and in less than two minutes, when approaching any place -of landing, the engine stops, the boat is lowered--the captain always -convoys his passengers himself from the steamer to the shore--away darts -the tiny skiff, held by a rope to the main boat; as soon as it grazes -the land, its freight, animate and inanimate, is bundled out, the boat -hauls itself back in an instant, and immediately the machine is in -motion, and the vessel again bounding over the water like a -race-horse.[54] Doubtless all this has many and great advantages; but to -an English person, the mere circumstance of being the whole day in a -crowd is a nuisance. As to privacy at any time, or under any -circumstances, 'tis a thing that enters not into the imagination of an -American. They do not seem to comprehend that to be from sunrise to -sunset one of a hundred and fifty people confined in a steam-boat is in -itself a great misery, or that to be left by one's self and to one's -self can ever be desirable. They live all the days of their lives in a -throng, eat at ordinaries of two or three hundred, sleep five or six in -a room, take pleasure in droves, and travel by swarms.[55] - - * * * * * - -In spite, therefore, of all its advantages, this mode of journeying has -its drawbacks, and the greatest of all, to me, is the being -_companioned_ by so many strangers, who crowd about you, pursue their -conversation in your very ears, or, if they like it better, listen to -yours, stare you out of all countenance, and squeeze you out of all -comfort. It is perfectly intolerable to me; but then I have more than -even the national English abhorrence of coming in contact with -strangers. There is no moment of my life when I would not rather be -alone than in company; and feeling, as I often do, the society of even -those I love a burden, the being eternally surrounded by indifferent -persons is a positive suffering that interferes with every enjoyment, -and makes pleasure three parts endurance. I think this constant living -in public is one reason why the young women here are much less retiring -and shy than English girls. Instead of the domestic privacy in which -women among us are accustomed to live, and move, and have their being, -here they are incessantly, as Mr. ---- says, "_en evidence_." Accustomed -to the society of strangers, mixing familiarly with persons of whom they -know nothing earthly, subject to the gaze of a crowd from morning till -night, pushing, and pressing, and struggling in self-defence, -conversing, and being conversed with, by the chance companions of a -boarding-house, a steam-boat, or the hotel of a fashionable -watering-place, they must necessarily lose every thing like reserve or -bashfulness of deportment, and become free and familiar in their -manners, and noisy and unrefined in their tone and style of -conversation.[56] An English girl of sixteen, put on board one of these -Noah's arks (for verily there be clean and unclean beasts in them), -would feel and look like a scared thing. To return to our progress. -After losing sight of New York, the river becomes narrower in its bed, -and the banks on either side assume a higher and more rocky appearance. -A fine range of basaltic rock, called the Palisadoes, rising to a height -of some hundred feet (I guess), immediately from the water on the left, -forms a natural rampart, overhanging the river for several miles. The -colour of the basalt was greenish grey, and contrasted finely with the -opposite shore, whose softer undulations were yet clothed with verdure, -and adorned with patches of woodland, robed in the glorious colours of -an American autumn. While despatching breakfast, the reflection of the -sun's rays on the water flickered to and fro upon the cabin ceiling; and -through the loop-hole windows we saw the bright foam round the paddles -sparkling like frothed gold in the morning light. On our return to the -deck, the face of the world had become resplendent with the glorious -sunshine that now poured from the east; and rock and river, earth and -sky, shone in intense and dazzling brilliancy. The broad Hudson curled -into a thousand crisp billows under the fresh north-wester that blew -over it. The vaporous exhalations of night had melted from the horizon, -and the bold rocky range of one shore, and exquisite rolling outline of -the other, stood out in fair relief against the deep serene of the blue -heavens. - - * * * * * - -I remained on deck without my bonnet, walking to and fro, and enjoying -the delicious wind that was as bracing as a shower-bath. Mr. ---- most -civilly offered me, when I returned to New York, the use of a horse, and -himself as escort to a beautiful ride beyond Hoboken, which proffer was -very gratefully received by me. Colonel ---- introduced me to an old man -of the name of ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -a jester, and a long story-teller;--a man whom it would be awful to meet -when you were too late for dinner, still more awful on your progress to -a rendezvous;--a man to whom a listener is a Godsend, and a button an -anchor of discoursing for half a day. He made me laugh once or twice -heartily. As we passed the various points of the river, to which any -interest, legendary or historical, attached, each of my three companions -drew my attention to it; and I had, pretty generally, three variations -of the same anecdote at each point of observation. On we boiled past -Spitendevil creek,[57] where the waters of the broad Hudson join those -of the East River, and circle with their silver arms the island of -Manhattan. Past the last stupendous reach of the Palisadoes, which, -stretching out into an endless promontory, seems to grow with the -mariner's onward progress, and bears witness to the justice with which -Hudson, on his exploring voyage up the river, christened it, the "weary -point." Past the thick masses of wood that mark the shadowy site of -Sleepy Hollow.[58] Past the marble prison of Sing Sing; and Tarrytown, -where poor Andre was taken; and on the opposite shore, saw the -glimmering white buildings, among which his tomb reposes.--By the by, -for a bit of the marvellous, which I dearly love. I am credibly informed -that on the day the traitor Arnold died, in England, a thunderbolt -struck the tree that grew above Andre's tomb here, on the shores of the -Hudson--nice, that! Crossed the broad, glorious, Tappan Sea, where the -shores, receding, form a huge basin, where the brimming waters roll in -an expanse of lake-like width, yet hold their rapid current to the -ocean, themselves a running sea. The giant shadows of the mountains on -the left, falling on the deep basin at their feet, the triumphant -sunlight that made the restless mirror that reflected it too bright for -the eye to rest upon, the sunny shores to the right, rising and falling -in every exquisite form that hill and dale can wear, the jutting masses -of granite, glittering like the diamond rocks of fairy-land in the sun, -the golden waves flinging themselves up every tiny crevice, the glowing -crimson foliage of the distant woods, the fresh vivid green of the -cedars, that rifted their strong roots in every stony cleft, and threw a -semblance of summer over these November days--all, all was beautiful, -and full of brightness. We passed the lighthouse of Stony Point, now the -peaceful occupant of the territory where the blood in English veins was -poured out by English hands, during the struggle between old-established -tyranny and the infant liberties of this giant world. Over all and each, -the blessed sky bent its blue arch, resplendently clear and bright, -while far away the distant summits of the Highlands rose one above -another, shutting in the world, and almost appearing as though each bend -of the river must find us locked in their shadowy circle, without means -of onward progress. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At every moment, the scene varied; at every moment, new beauty and -grandeur was revealed to us; at every moment, the delicious lights and -shadows fell with richer depth and brightness upon higher openings into -the mountains, and fairer bends of the glorious river. At about a -quarter to eleven, the buildings of West Point were seen, perched upon -the rock side, overhanging the water; above, the woody rise, upon whose -summit stands the large hotel, the favourite resort of visiters during -the summer season; rising again above this, the ruins of Fort Putnam, -poor Andre's prison-house, overlooking the Hudson and its shores; and, -towering high beyond them all, the giant hills, upon whose brown -shoulders the trees looked like bristles standing up against the sky. We -left the boat, or rather she left us, and presently we saw her holding -her course far up the bright water, and between the hills; where framed -by the dark mountains, with the sapphire stream below and the sapphire -sky above, lay the bright little town of Newburgh, with its white -buildings glittering in the sunshine. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -We toiled up the ascent, which, though by comparison with its -over-peering fellows inconsiderable, was a sufficiently fatiguing -undertaking under the unclouded weather and over the unshaded downs that -form the parade-ground for the cadets. West Point is a military -establishment, containing some two hundred and fifty pupils, who are -here educated for the army under the superintendence of experienced -officers.[59] The buildings, in which they reside and pursue their -various studies, stand upon a grassy knoll holding the top of the rocky -bank of the river, and commanding a most enchanting view of its course. -They are not particularly extensive, but commodious and well-ordered. I -am told they have a good library; but on reaching the dwelling of Mr. -Cozzens (proprietor of the hotel, which being at this season shut, he -received us most hospitably and courteously in his own house), I felt so -weary, that I thought it impossible I should stir again for the whole -day, and declined seeing it. I had walked on the deck at an amazing -pace, and without once sitting down, from eight o'clock till eleven; and -I think must nearly have killed Colonel ----, who was my companion -during this march. However, upon finding that it wanted full an hour -till dinner-time, it was agreed that we should go up to the fort, and -we set off under the guidance of one of Mr. Cozzens' servants, who had -orders not to go too fast with us. Before turning into the woods that -cover the foot of the mountain, we followed a bit of road that overhung -the river; and stealing over its sleepy-looking waters, where shone like -stars the white sails of many a tiny skiff, came the delicious notes of -a bugle-horn. The height at which we stood above the water prevented the -ear being satisfied with the complete subject of the musician, but the -sweet broken tones that came rising from the far-down thickets that -skirted the river had more harmony than a distinct and perfect strain. I -stood entranced to listen--the whole was like a dream of fairy-land: but -presently our guide struck into the woods, and the world became screened -from our sight. I had thought that I was tired, and could not stir, even -to follow the leisurely footsteps of our cicerone; but tangled brake and -woodland path, and rocky height, soon roused my curiosity, and my legs -following therewith, I presently outstripped our party, guide and all, -and began pursuing my upward path, through close-growing trees and -shrubs, over pale shining ledges of granite, over which the trickling -mountain springs had taken their silvery course; through swampy grounds, -where the fallen leaves lay like gems under the still pools that here -and there shone dimly in little hollow glens; over the soft starry moss -that told where the moist earth retained the freshening waters, over -sharp hard splinters of rock, and rough masses of stone. Alone, alone, I -was alone and happy, and went on my way rejoicing, climbing and climbing -still, till the green mound of thick turf, and ruined rampart of the -fort arrested my progress. I coasted the broken wall, and, lighting down -on a broad smooth table of granite fringed with young cedar bushes, I -looked down, and for a moment my breath seemed to stop, the pulsation of -my heart to cease--I was filled with awe. The beauty and wild sublimity -of what I beheld seemed almost to crush my faculties,--I felt dizzy as -though my senses were drowning,--I felt as though I had been carried -into the immediate presence of God. Though I were to live a thousand -years, I never can forget it. The first thing that I distinctly saw was -the shadow of a large cloud, which rolled slowly down the side of a huge -mountain, frowning over the height where I stood. The shadow moved down -its steep sunny side, threw a deep blackness over the sparkling river, -and then passed off and climbed the opposite mountain on the other -shore, leaving the world in the full blaze of noon. I could have -stretched out my arms, and shouted aloud--I could have fallen on my -knees, and worshipped--I could have committed any extravagance that -ecstasy could suggest. I stood filled with amazement and delight, till -the footsteps and voices of my companions roused me. I darted away, -unwilling to be interrupted. Colonel ---- was following me, but I -peremptorily forbade his doing so, and was clambering on alone, when the -voice of our guide, assuring me that the path I was pursuing was -impassable, arrested my course. My father beckoned to me from above not -to pursue my track; so I climbed through a break, which the rocky walls -of nature and the broken fortifications of art rendered tolerably -difficult of access, and running round the wall joined my father on his -high stand, where he was holding out his arms to me. For two or three -minutes we mingled exclamations of delight and surprise: he then led me -to the brink of the rampart; and, looking down the opposite angle of the -wall to that which I was previously coasting, I beheld the path I was -then following break suddenly off, on the edge of a precipice several -hunched feet down into the valley: it made me gulp to look at it. -Presently I left my father, and, after going the complete round of the -ruins, found out for myself a grassy knoll commanding a full view of the -scene, sufficiently far from my party not to hear their voices, and -screened from seeing them by some beautiful young cedar bushes; and here -I lay down and cried most abundantly, by which means I recovered my -senses, which else, I think, must have forsaken me. How full of thoughts -I was! Of God's great might, and gracious goodness, of the beauty of -this earth, of the apparent nothingness of man when compared with this -huge inanimate creation, of his wondrous value, for whose delight and -use all these fair things were created! I thought of my distant home; -that handful of earth thrown upon the wide waters, whose genius has led -the kingdoms of the world--whose children have become the possessors of -this new hemisphere. I rejoiced to think that when England shall be, as -all things must be, fallen into the devouring past, her language will -still be spoken among these glorious hills, her name revered, her memory -cherished, her fame preserved here, in this far world beyond the seas, -this country of her children's adoption. Poor old mother! how she would -remain amazed to see the huge earth and waters where her voice is heard, -in the name of every spot where her descendants have rested the soles -of their feet: this giant inheritance of her sons, poor, poor, old -England! - - * * * * * - -Where are the poets of this land? Why, such a world should bring forth -men with minds and souls larger and stronger than any that ever dwelt in -mortal flesh! Where are the poets of this land? They should be giants, -too; Homers and Miltons, and Goethes and Dantes, and Shakspeares. Have -these glorious scenes poured no inspirings into hearts worthy to behold -and praise their beauty? Is there none to come here and worship among -these hills and waters till his heart burns within him, and the hymn of -inspiration flows from his lips, and rises to the sky? Is there not one -among the sons of such a soil to send forth its praises to the universe, -to throw new glory round the mountains, new beauty over the waves? Is -inanimate nature, alone, here "telling the glories of God?" Oh, surely, -surely, there will come a time when this lovely land will be vocal with -the sound of song, when every close-locked valley and waving wood, -rifted rock and flowing stream, shall have their praise. Yet 'tis -strange how marvellously unpoetical these people are! How swallowed up -in life and its daily realities, wants, and cares! How full of toil and -thrift, and money-getting labour! Even the heathen Dutch, among us the -very antipodes of all poetry, have found names such as the Donder Berg -for the hills, whilst the Americans christen them Butter Hill, the -Crow's Nest, and _such like_. Perhaps some hundred years hence, when -wealth has been amassed by individuals, and the face of society begins -to grow checkered, as in the old lands of Europe, when the whole mass of -population shall no longer go running along the level road of toil and -profit, when inequalities of rank shall exist, and the rich man shall be -able to pay for the luxury of poetry, and the poor man who makes verses -no longer be asked, "Why don't you cast up accounts?" when all this -comes to pass, as _perhaps_ some day it may, America will have poets. It -seems strange to me that men, such as the early settlers in -Massachusetts, the Puritan founders of New England, the "Pilgrim -Fathers," should not have had amongst them some men, or at least man, in -whose mind the stern and enduring courage, the fervent enthusiastic -piety, the unbending love of liberty, which animated them all, became -the inspiration to poetic thought, and the suggestion of poetical -utterance. They should have had a Milton or a Klopstock amongst them. -Yet, after all, they had excitement of another sort, and, moreover, the -difficulties and dangers, and distresses of a fate of unparalleled -hardship, to engross all the energies of their minds; and I am half -inclined to believe that poetry is but a hothouse growth, and yet I -don't know: I wish somebody would explain to me every thing in this -world that I can't make out.[60] We came down from the mountain at -about half-past one: our party had been joined by Colonel ----, governor -of the College, who very courteously came toiling up to Fort Putnam, to -pay his compliments to us. I lingered far behind them, returning; and, -when they were out of sight, turned back, and once more ascended the -ruin, to look my last of admiration and delight, and then down, down, -every step bringing me out of the clouds, farther from heaven, and -nearer this work i' day world. I loitered, and loitered, looking back at -every step; but at last the hills were shut out by a bend in the road, -and I came into the house to throw myself down on the floor, and sleep -most seriously for half an hour; at the end of which time we were called -to dinner. - -In England, if an innkeeper gives you a good dinner, and places the -first dish on the table himself, you pay him, and he's obliged to you. -Here, an innkeeper is a gentleman, your equal, sits at his table with -you, you pay him, and are obliged to him besides. 'Tis necessary -therefore for a stranger, but especially an Englishman, to understand -the fashions of the land, else he may chance to mistake that for an -impertinent familiarity, which is in fact the received custom of the -country. Mr. Cozzens very considerately gave us our dinner in a private -room, instead of seating us at an ordinary with all the West Point -officers. Moreover, _gave_ in the literal sense, and a very good dinner -it was. He is himself a very intelligent courteous person, and, during -the very short time that we were his guests, showed us every possible -attention and civility. We had scarce finished our dinner, when in -rushed a waiter to tell us that the boat was in sight. Away we trotted, -trailing cloaks, and shawls, any-how fashion, down the hill. The steamer -came puffing up the gorge between the mountains, and in a moment we were -bundled into the boat, hauled alongside, and landed on the deck; and -presently the glorious highlands, all glowing in the rosy sunset, began -to recede from us. Just as we were putting off from shore, a tiny skiff, -with its graceful white sail glittering in the sun, turned the base of -the opposite hill, evidently making to the point whence we embarked. I -have since learned that it contained a messenger to us, from a gentleman -bearing our name, and distantly connected with us, proprietor of some -large iron-works on the shore opposite West Point. However, our kinsman -was too late, and we were already losing sight of West Point, when his -boat reached the shore. Our progress homeward was, if any thing, more -enchanting than our coming out had been, except for leaving all this -loveliness. The sun went down in splendour, leaving the world robed in -glorious beauty. The sky was one glowing geranium curtain, into which -the dark hills rose like shadow-land, stretching beyond, and still -beyond, till they grew like hazy outlines through a dazzling mist of -gold. The glory faded; and a soft violet colour spread downwards to the -horizon, where a faint range of clouds lay floating like scattered rose -leaves. As the day fell, the volumes of smoke from our steam-boat -chimneys became streams of fiery sparks, which glittered over the water -with a strange unearthly effect. I sat on deck watching the world grow -dark, till my father, afraid of the night air, bade me go down; and -there, in spite of the chattering of a score of women, and the squalling -of half as many children, I slept profoundly till we reached New York, -at a quarter to seven. - - -_Saturday, 17th._ - -After breakfast, wrote journal: while doing so, Mr. ---- called to know -if I held my mind in spite of the grey look of the morning. A wan -sunbeam just then lighted on the earth, and I said I would go; for I -thought by about twelve it probably would clear. - - * * * * * - -They called for me in the carriage at eleven; and afterwards we mounted -our steeds in Warren Street to escape the crowd in Broadway. We rode -down to the ferry. The creature, _on top_ of which I sat, was the real -_potatuppy_ butcher's horse. However, it did not shake me, or pull my -arms much, so I was content. As to a horse properly broken, either for -man or woman, I have done looking for it in this land. We went into the -steam-boat on our horses. The mist lay thick over the river; but the -opposite shores had that grey distinctness of colour and outline that -invariably foretells rain in England. The wind blew bitterly keen and -cold. - - * * * * * - -Our riding party was Mr. ----, whom I like; Mrs. ----, whom I also like, -in spite of her outlandish riding-habiliments, a brother of his, - - * * * * * - -and a young ---- in white hair and spectacles. The carriage held old Mr. -----, Miss ----, the youngest daughter, and that beautiful youngest boy -of theirs, who is so like his handsome sister; also sundry baskets of -cake, and bottles of champagne. After landing, we set off at a brisk -canter to Weehawk. None of these people know how to ride: they just go -whatever pace their horse likes, sitting as backward as they can in the -saddle, and tugging at the reins as hard as ever they can, to the -infinite detriment of their own hands and their horses' mouths. When we -had reached the height, we dismounted and walked through the woods that -crown the cliffs, which here rise to an elevation of some hundred feet -above the river. Our path lay through tangled brakes, where the withered -trees and fallen red leaves, the bright cedar bushes, and pale slabs of -granite, formed a fine and harmonious contrast of colouring; the whole -blending beautifully together under the grey light, that made it look -like one of Ruysdael's pictures. Our walk terminated at a little rocky -promontory, called the Devil's Pulpit, where, as legends say, Satan was -wont to preach, loud enough to drown the sound of the Sabbath bells in -New York. The Hudson, far below, lay leaden and sullen; the woods along -the shores looked withered and wintry; a thick curtain of vapour -shrouded all the distance: the effect of the whole was very sad and -beautiful; and had I been by myself I should have enjoyed it very much. -But I was in company, and, moreover, in company with two punsters, who -uttered their atrocities without remorse in the midst of all that was -most striking and melancholy in nature. When we mounted our horses -again, Mrs. ---- complained that hers pulled her wrists most dreadfully; -and, as they seemed none of the strongest, I exchanged steeds with her. -The lady proprietress of the grounds over which we had been walking and -riding invited us into the house, but, being mounted, I declined, and we -set off for the pavilion. Just as we arrived there, it began to rain. -Mercy on me and Mrs. ----! how our arms will ach to-morrow! This worthy -animal of hers had a mouth a little worse than a donkey's. Arrived at -the pavilion, we dismounted, and swallowed sundry champagnes and lumps -of plum cake, which were singularly refreshing. We set off again, and -presently it began to pelt with rain. We reached and crossed the ferry -without gelling very wet. Arranged to ride on Wednesday, if fine, and so -home. Upon the whole, rather satisfied than otherwise with my -expedition. Dressed for dinner at once; went on with journal; Colonel ----- called, and sat some time. After dinner, embroidered till eight: -teaed:--my father went over to the theatre: I practised for two hours. - - -_Sunday, 18th._ - -The muscles of my arms (for I have such unlady-like things) stand out -like lumps of stone, with the fine exercise they had yesterday. I wonder -how Mrs. ----'s shoulders and elbows feel. - - * * * * * - -It rained so, we hackneyed to church. This is twice Mr. ---- has not -been to church, which is really very wrong, though it leaves us the pew -comfortably to ourselves. Dr. ---- must be an excellent good man--his -sermons are every way delightful; good sense, sound doctrine, and withal -a most winning mildness and gentleness of manner. A benevolent good man, -I am sure, he must be. Came home--copied snuff-box verses for my father; -divided out my story of the Sisters into acts and scenes: began doing -the same by the English tragedy; but in the midst took a fancy to make a -story instead of a play of it--and so I will, I think. Dressed for -dinner. At about half-past five Colonel ---- and his Quaker wife came. -She is a most delightful creature, with the sweetest expression of face -imaginable. She reminded me several times of dear Mrs. ----. Her dress, -too, the rich brown watered silk, made so plainly, recalled Mrs. ---- to -me very forcibly. We had a very comfortable dinner and evening. They -went away at about half-past ten. - - -_Monday, 19th._ - -After breakfast, wrote journal. Went out shopping and returning cards; -called on Mrs. ----, and was let in. I like her; she is a nice person, -with agreeable manners. Came home at about half-past two; put out things -for the theatre; dined at three. After dinner, pottered about clothes -till time to go to the theatre. The house was very good. My -benefit--play, Much Ado about Nothing. I played very well. I am much -improved in my comedy acting. Came home in a coach--it poured with rain. -What a stupid day! The accounts of cholera in New Orleans are frightful; -they have the yellow fever there too. Poor people! what an awful -visitation! - - -_Tuesday, 20th._ - -After breakfast, wrote journal. At twelve, went and called upon Mrs. -----: the day was bright, but bitter cold, with a keen piercing wind -that half cut one in half, and was delicious. The servant denied Mrs. -----; but we had hardly turned from the door when both the ladies came -rushing after us, with nothing on their heads and necks, and thin summer -gowns on. They brought us into a room where there was a fire fit to -roast an ox. No wonder the women here are delicate and subject to cold, -and die of consumption. Here were these sitting absolutely in an oven, -in clothes fit only for the hottest days in summer, instead of wrapping -themselves up well, and trotting out, and warming their blood -wholesomely with good hard exercise. The pretty Mrs. ---- looks very -sickly, and coughs terribly. Her beauty did not strike me so much -to-day. I do not admire any body who looks as if a puff of wind would -break them in half, or a drop of water soak them through. I greatly -prefer her sister's looks, who certainly is not pretty, but tall and -straight, and healthy-looking, and springy as a young thing ought to be. -Was introduced to a most enchanting young Newfoundland dog, whom I -greatly coveted. Settled to ride to-morrow, if fine. Called at ----'s, -also at a furrier's about cap, and came home. Found ---- and ---- with -my father. What a very bad expression of face the former has; sneering -and false--terrible! I looked at ---- with much respect. I like his -spirit, as it shines through his works, greatly. He was a pale -sickly-looking man, without any thing at all remarkable in the -expression of his countenance. While they were here, Mr. ---- called to -settle about to-morrow. He is a nice person, sensible and civil, and -civil in the right way. Arrangements were made for dear ----'s going, -which I rejoiced in greatly. I do not like at all leaving her behind. -When the folks were gone, put out things for the theatre. While doing -so, Mr. ---- and Mr. and Mrs. ---- called. Great discoursing about -horses and horsemanship. Dined at three. After dinner, put fur upon my -habit. At half-past five, went to the theatre. House very good; play, -Hunchback. By the by, Colonel ---- called to-day, to entreat me to go -and see his "Honour, the Recorder," who had sent me tickets of admission -to the town-hall, to see ---- receive the freedom of the city. I could -not go, because of our horseback expedition--this by the way. I played -so-soish. ---- was at the play; and at the end, somebody in the house -exclaimed, "Three cheers for ----!" whereupon a mingled chorus of -applause and hisses arose. The Vice-president looked rather silly, and -acknowledged neither the one nor the other. How well I remember the Duke -of ---- coming to the orchestra to see this play, the night before it -was expected the Whigs would go out. I dare say he knew little enough -what the Hunchback was about. I do not think the people noticed him, -however; so the feeling of the pulse must have been unsatisfactory. Mr. ----- said to Modus to-night in the play, speaking of me, "a change of -linen will suffice for her." How absurd! we were all dying on the stage. -Came home; supped:--looked at silks; chose a lovely rose-coloured one to -line my Portia dress; with which good deed my day ended. - - -_Wednesday, 21st._ - -Looked at the sun, and, satisfied with his promise, went to bed again, -and slept till half-past eight. After breakfast, wrote to his honour, -the Recorder, an humble apology in true Old Bailey style. Wrote journal, -and began practising. Mrs. ---- called before I was out of my bed to -tell us that the ----'s were not going, but that either her husband or -her brother-in-law would be too glad to go in the gig with D----. This, -however, the latter refused, not choosing, as she said, to make any -young man do the penance of keeping her company on a party of pleasure. -Dear good old D----! I was vexed and provoked; but it could not be -helped. At eleven, ---- came for me. I found Mrs. ---- in the carriage -waiting for me. We adjourned to Warren Street, where were assembled all -the party. While we waited for our horses, Neptune, the beautiful -Newfoundland, was admitted, and amused himself by prancing over tables, -and chairs, and sofas, to his own infinite delight, and the visible -benefit of the furniture. Our steeds having arrived, we mounted and -began to progress. Myself, and Mrs. ----, her husband, his brother, -----, and papa ----, Dr. ----, Mrs. ----'s brother, and Mr. ----, -nephew, I believe, of the Irish patriot, were the equestrians of the -party. After, followed Mr. ---- and Mrs. ----, all be-coated and -be-furred, in the stanhope. After, followed the ammunition-waggon, -containing a negro servant, Neptune, and sundry baskets of champagne, -cake, and cherry bounce. Away we rushed down Broadway, to the infinite -edification of its gaping multitudes. Mr. ---- had gotten me an -enchanting horse that trotted like an angel. So, in spite of Major -----'s awful denunciation of "disgusting," I had a delicious hard trot -all through the streets, rising in my saddle like a lady, or rather, a -gentleman. My habit seemed to excite considerable admiration and -approbation, and indeed it was _great_. Crossed the Brooklyn ferry in -the steam-boat, and safely landed on the opposite side. The whole army -defiled; the stanhope taking the van, the horses forming the main body, -and the provisions bringing up the rear. Our party separated constantly, -as we progressed, into various groups, but I remained chiefly with Dr. -----, Mr. ----, and old Mr. ----. By the by, those ----s are a charming -family; for Mrs. ---- sits straight in her saddle, and the Doctor -settled, when we started, that when he had _despatched his patients_, he -would call for D---- in the gig, and come down to meet us at the fort. -Our ride thither was extremely agreeable: the day was clear, cold, and -grey; a delightful day for riding. I trotted to my heart's content; and -kept my blood warm, and my spirits like champagne, till we reached the -fort, when, at sight of the Narrows, and the Sandy Hook lighthouse, they -sank deep, deep down. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The sea lay grey and still, without a wave or scarce a ripple. A -thousand light skiffs, of various shapes, lay upon the leaden waters. -The sky was a fine heap of heavy purple clouds, from behind which the -sun shot down his rays, which threw a melancholy wan lustre on the sea -beneath them. 'Twas a sad and beautiful scene. The colouring of the -whole was gloomily harmonious; and the dark shores and grey expanse of -water blended solemnly with the violet-coloured curtain of the heavens. -We went over the fort. 'Tis a fortification of no great size, or, I -should think, strength; but its position, which commands the narrow -entrance to the bay of New York, effectually checks the pass, and guards -the watery defile that leads to the city of Mammon. We looked at the -guns and powder-magazine, walked round the walls, and peeped into the -officers' quarters, and then descended to seek where we might eat and be -satisfied. Mrs. ---- is a very nice creature: she looks the picture of -good temper--never stands still a minute; and as we rode along to-day, -when, fearing she might be cold, I asked her how she found herself, she -replied, with perfect innocence and sincerity, "Oh, delightful!" which -made us all scream. We knocked up the quarters of an old woman who kept -a cottage, not exactly young love's humble shed, but good enough for our -purpose. We got sundry logs of wood, and made a blazing fire; moreover, -the baskets were opened, and presently we presented the interesting -spectacle of a dozen people each with a lump of cake in one hand, and a -champagne glass in the other. Mr. ---- and Mrs. ---- stuck to the cherry -bounce, and, as we afterwards heard, drove home accordingly. Having -discussed, we remounted, and set forwards home by another road; a very -lovely one, all along the river side. Ere we had progressed long, we met -D---- and Dr. ---- in the gig. The nice good man had kept his word, and -gone to fetch her. They had met Mr. ----'s equipage going cherry-bounce -pace, it seems, two miles ahead of us. The men here are never happy -unless they are going full speed. 'Tis no wonder their horses are good -for nothing: they would ruin any horses that were good for any -thing.[61] Such unskilful horsemanship I never saw: going full tear; -crossing one another in every direction; knocking up against one -another; splashing through puddles because they have no hand over their -horses, and either overshooting their point, or being half thrown at -every turn of the road, for the same reason. Came home full speed, and -arrived at half-past four, having ridden, I should think, nearly twenty -miles. Found Mrs. ---- at home. They pressed me very much to stay dinner -with them; but my father expected me, and I would not. That worthy -youth, ----, insisted upon my accepting his beautiful large dog, -Neptune, which I did conditionally, in case Mr. ---- should fail me, -which I think a very improbable case indeed. They ordered the carriage, -and Mr. ---- persisted in seeing me home in it, much to my annoyance, as -'twas a very useless ceremony indeed. Did not dishabit, but dined _en -amazone_. - - * * * * * - -Gave D---- her muff and tippet, which are exceedingly magnificent. After -dinner, pottered about, and dressed at once. Played on the piano till -nine, when we adjourned to ----'s. A complete "small party, my dear." -Dr. ---- was there, whom I was glad to see; also Mrs. ----; also Mr. and -Miss ----; also that Mrs. ----, who is utter horror and perturbation of -spirit to me; also ----; also ----; all our riding party, and a world -besides. After a little time, dancing was proposed; and I stood up to -waltz with Mr. ----, who observed that Dr. ---- was gone, as he never -chose to be present while waltzing was going on. I felt shocked to death -that unconsciously I should have been instrumental in driving him away, -and much surprised that those who knew his disapprobation of waltzing -should have proposed it. However, he was gone, and did not return. -Therefore I waltzed myself out of my conscientious remorse. Sang them -Fanny Gray, and Ye Mariners of Spain. Danced sundry quadrilles; and, -finally, what they called a Kentucky reel,--which is nothing more than -Sir Roger de Coverley turned Backwoodsman--and afterwards a "foursome -reel." Played magic music; and, finally, at one o'clock, came home, -having danced myself fairly off my legs. - - -_Thursday, 22d._ - -It poured with rain all day. Dr. ---- called, and gave me a sermon about -waltzing. As it was perfectly good sense, to which I could reply -nothing whatever in the shape of objection, I promised him never to -waltz again, except with a woman, or my brother. - - * * * * * - -After all, 'tis not fitting that a man should put his arm round one's -waist, whether one belongs to any one but one's self or not. 'Tis much -against what I have always thought most sacred,--the dignity of a woman -in her own eyes and those of others. I like Dr. ---- most exceedingly. -He spoke every way to my feelings of what was right, to-day. After -saying that he felt convinced, from conversations which he had heard -amongst men, that waltzing was immoral in its tendency, he added, "I am -married, and have been in love, and cannot imagine any thing more -destructive of the deep and devoted respect which love is calculated to -excite in every honourable man's heart, not only for the individual -object of his affections, but for her whole sex, than to see any and -every impertinent coxcomb in a ball-room come up to her, and, without -remorse or hesitation, clasp her waist, imprison her hand, and -absolutely whirl her round in his arms." So spake the Doctor; and my -sense of propriety and conviction of right bore testimony to the truth -of his saying. So, farewell, sweet German waltz!--next to hock, the most -intoxicating growth of the Rheinland. I shall never keep time to your -pleasant measure again!--no matter; after all, any thing is better than -to be lightly spoken of, and to deserve such mention. Mr. ---- called, -and sat some time with me. He is grown monstrously fat, and looks -perfectly radiant. He brought with him a good-looking staring man of the -name of ----. We dined at three. After dinner, received a pretty -anonymous nosegay, with sundry very flattering doggrel. The play was the -Stranger. It poured cats and dogs, and the streets were all grey -pudding. I did not expect to see six people in the house; instead of -which 'twas crowded: a satisfactory proof of our attraction. - - -_Friday, 23d._ - -At eleven, went to rehearsal--Isabella. I have forgotten all about it. -They all read their parts; came home; began to practise. The two Mrs. ----- called. I like them mainly, Mrs. ---- particularly. While they were -here, Mr. ---- and a man called; they stayed but a minute. By and by, in -walked Mr. and Mrs. ----; whereupon the ---- departed. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -While they were here, received from ---- the beautiful annual he has -bought for me, which is, indeed, most beautiful; and with it, literally -a copy of verses, which are _not so bad neither_--only think of that!!! -The engravings are from things of Stanfield's, taken on the Rhine; and -made my heart ach to be once more in Europe, in the old land where fairy -tales are told; in the old feudal world, where every rock, and valley, -and stream, are haunted with imaginings wild and beautiful: the hallowed -ground of legend history; the dream-land of fancy and of poetry. Put out -things for the theatre: dined at three. Colonel ---- called: he brought -news of the arrival of a Liverpool packet, and prophesied letters to me. -Went to the theatre. Play, Hunchback--house very fine again. Just as I -was dressing for the second act, three letters were brought into my -room. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I was so much overset by them, that with the strange faculty I have of -pouring one feeling into another, I cried so bitterly in the parting -scene with Clifford, that I could scarcely utter the words of my part. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Saturday, 24th._ - -Our riding expedition having been put off, the day was beautifully -bright and clear. Sat stitching and pottering an infinity. My feet got -so perished that I didn't know what to do. Wrote journal; practised for -an hour; Mr. ---- called. When he was gone, went out with my father. -Called at ----'s to order home my gown for dinner-time. Left a card at -Mrs. ----'s, and then marched down to the tailor's to upbraid him about -my waistcoat, which is infamously ill made.[62] Coming home, met that -very odious Mr. ----, who is the perfection of genteel vulgarity. He -walked home with us. Dressed for dinner. Mme. ---- did not send my gown -home in time: abominable sempstress! so put on my blue, and looked -rather dowdy. Found sundry that we knew: Colonel ----; Mr. ----; my -favourite aversion, Mr. ----; that signal fool, Mr. ----; Miss ----, who -looked like a hair-dresser's wax block; a Miss ----, with lovely feet, -and a terrified Bacchante-looking head, _cum multis aliis_. I sat by one -Mr. ----, who talked without end, and cleverly enough: indeed, it was -rather clever to talk so wonderfully fast and much. After dinner, the -party became much larger: Dr. ----, Mr. ----, the ---- (all but ----), -that entire self-satisfaction, Mr. ----, Mr. ----, and the knight of the -rueful countenance; three singing men, ycleped ----; and a shoal -besides. One of the Mr. ---- and Miss ---- sang the duet in the Didone, -that dear ---- and ---- used to sing so lovelily. They both had good -voices, but the style is but so-soish. Presently, three men sang that -sea glee that I remember Lord and Lady ---- teaching me at ----. What a -strange faculty of our nature this is, this leading back of our minds to -the past, through the agency of our senses, acted upon by present -influences, the renewing life, the magical summoning up of dead time -from its grave, with the very place and circumstance it wore. Wondrous -riddle! what--what are we, that are so curiously made? By and by dancing -was proposed, and I was much entreated and implored to change my -determination about waltzing; but I was inexorable, and waltzed only -with the ladies, who one and all dance extremely well. Mrs. ---- looked -lovely to-night. Dr. ---- says very true, she has a thorough-bred look, -which reminds me a little of our noble English ladies. He says she is -like Lady ----. I think she is prettier: she certainly looks like a gem. -We danced a Kentucky reel, and sundry quadrilles. That long ens, Mr. -----, was tipsy, and went slithering about in a way to kill one; and Mr. ----- was sitting slyly in the corner, pretending to talk to D----, but -in fact dying with laughter at poor ----, who meandered about the room, -to the infinite dismay and confusion of the whole dance. Vain were the -vigorous exertions of his partner, who pulled him this way and that, and -pushed him hither and thither, to all which the unresisting creature -submitted incorrigibly. Remained dancing till half-past twelve, in fact -Sunday morning, and then came home. They made me sing, which I did -abominably. On my return home, found my black satin gown, every atom of -which will have to be unpicked--pleasant! the tradespeople here are -really terrible; they can do nothing, and will take no pains to do any -thing: 'tis a handsome gown spoilt.[63] - - -_Sunday, 25th._ - -My dear father's birth-day! also, by the by, a grand occasion here--the -anniversary of the evacuation of the island by the British troops, which -circumstance the worthy burghers have celebrated ever since with due -devotion and thankfulness. Went to church: Dr. ---- did not preach, -which was a disappointment to me. The music was exquisite; and there was -a beautiful graceful willow branch, with its long delicate fibres and -golden leaves, waving against the blue sky and the church window, that -seemed to me like a magical branch in a fairy tale. It struck me as -strange to-day, as I looked from the crowded gloomy church to the bright -unbounded sky, to think that we call the one the house of God; to be -sure, we have other authority for calling the blue heavens his throne; -and oh, how glorious they did look! The day was bright, but bitter cold. -Coming out of church, saw all our last night's party. On my return home -found a perfect levee; Dr. ----, Mr. ----, Mr. ----, Mr. ----, Mr. ----, -a whole regiment. When they were all gone, wrote journal: having -finished that and my lunch, set out with my father to _fetch a walk_; -which we did to the tune of near six miles, through all the outskirts of -the town, an exceedingly low-life ramble indeed--during which we came -across a man who was preaching in the street. He had not a very large -assembly round him, and we stood in the crowd to hear him. By his own -account, he had been imprisoned before for a similar proceeding; and he -was denouncing, most vehemently, signal judgments on the blind and -wicked corporation who had so stopped the work of righteousness. The -man's face was a very fine one, remarkably intelligent and handsome: he -was cleanly and well dressed, and had altogether a respectable -appearance. When we came home, it was past four. Dressed for dinner. My -father dined with Mr. ----; so D---- and I had a _tete-a-tete_ dinner. -After which, played on the piano for some time; after which, began -letter to H----; after which, wrote journal. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Monday, 26th._ - -Yesterday was evacuation day; but as yesterday was the Lord's day also, -the American militia army postponed their yearly exhibition, and, -instead of rushing about the streets in token of their thankfulness at -the departure of the British, they quietly went to church, and praised -God for that same. To-day, however, we have had firing of pop-guns, -waving of star-spangled banners (some of them rather the worse for -wear), infantry marching through the streets, cavalry (oh, Lord, what -delicious objects they were!) and artillery prancing along them, to the -infinite ecstasy and peril of a dense mob. Went to rehearsal at -half-past ten. Was detained full ten minutes on the way thither, by the -defiling of troops, who were progressing down Broadway. After rehearsal, -came home--put out things for the theatre. Mr. ---- called: while he was -here, spent a delightful half hour at the window, which, overlooking the -Park, commanded a full view of the magnanimous military marshalled -there. O, pomp and circumstance of glorious war! They were certainly not -quite so bad as Falstaff's men, of ragged memory; for, for aught I know -to the contrary, they perhaps _all_ of them had shirts to their backs. -But some had gloves, and some had none; some carried their guns one way, -and some another; some had caps of one fashion, and some of another; -some had no caps at all, but "shocking bad hats," with feathers in -them.[64] The infantry were, however, comparatively respectable troops. -They did not march many degrees out of the straight line, or stoop _too -much_, or turn their heads round _too often_. Mr. ---- remarked, that -militia were seldom more steady and orderly in their appearance. But the -cava'ry! oh, the cavalry! what gems without price they were! Apparently -extremely frightened at the shambling _tituppy_ chargers upon whose -backs they clung, straggling in all directions, putting the admiring -crowd in fear of their lives, and proving beyond a doubt how formidable -they must appear to the enemy, when, with the most peaceable intentions -in the world, they thus jeopardied the safety of their enthusiastic -fellow citizens. Bold would have been the man who did not edge backwards -into the crowd, as a flock of these worthies a-horseback came down the -street--some trotting, some galloping, some racking, some ambling; each -and all "witching the world with wondrous horsemanship." If any thing -ever might be properly called wondrous, they, their riders and -accoutrements, deserve the title. Some wore boots, and some wore shoes, -and one independent hero had got on grey stockings and _slippers_! Some -had bright yellow feathers, and some red and black feathers! I -remembered, particularly, a doctor, in a black suit, Hessian boots, a -cocked hat, and bright yellow gauntlets; another fellow was dressed in -the costume of one of the Der Freyschutz's corps: it looked for all the -world like a _fancy_ parade. The officers fulfilled completely my idea -of Macheath's company of gentlemen of the road; only, I strongly suspect -the latter would have been heartily ashamed of the unhappy hacks the -evacuation heroes had gotten up upon. The parade terminated with a full -half hour's _feu de joie_.[65] - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The bands of these worthies were worthy of them; half a dozen fifers -and drummers playing old English jig tunes. In spite of the folly and -injustice of such a comparison, I could not keep out of my head the last -soldiers I had seen, those fine tall fellows, the grenadier guards, that -used to delight us of a Sunday morning in St. James's Park, and their -exquisite band, and dandy-looking officers. Those _looked_ like -soldiers, whatever they may fight like; and allowing these excellent -good folks to be very lions, look you, I can only say their appearance -approached the sublime, by as near as the French critic assures us the -extreme of the ridiculous does. Dined at three; ---- and ---- called -after dinner. My father went with Mr. ---- to Tammany Hall,[66] where -there was a grand democratic dinner, in honour of the triumph of the -Jackson party, the mob men here. I sat writing to ---- till time to go -to the theatre. The play was Isabella; the house crammed; a regular -holiday audience--shrieking, shouting, laughing, and rowing, like one of -our own Christmas audiences. I acted like a wretch. My dresses looked -very handsome, particularly my marriage dress; but my muslin bed-gown -was so long that, I set my feet through it the very first thing; and -those _animaux betes_, who dragged me off, tore a beautiful point lace -veil I had on to tatters, a thing that cost three guineas, if a -farthing! My father received a most amusing letter this morning from -Lord ----, asking us to come over to Jamaica and act, offering us -quarters in his house, and plenty of volunteer actors (did he include -himself, I wonder?) to make up a company, if we will come. I should like -it very well: to pass the winter in that nice warm climate would be -delightful, and I dare say we should find our stay there amusing and -agreeable enough. I wish we could do it. - - -_Tuesday, 27th._ - -After breakfast, Colonel ---- called. Put out things for to-night. At -half-past twelve, went out with my father and Colonel ----. Called upon -his honour, the Recorder, but he was in court, and not to be seen. -Walked down to the Battery. The day was most lovely, like an early day -in June in England: my merino gown was intolerable, and I was obliged to -take a parasol with me, the sun was so powerful. The Battery was, as -usual, totally deserted, though the sky, and shores, and beautiful -bright bay, were smiling in perfect loveliness. A delicious fresh breeze -came wandering over the wide estuary; and graceful boats, with their -full sails glittering in the sun, glided to and fro, swift and strong, -over the smooth waters, like summer clouds across the blue heavens--as -silently, as rapidly, as tracklessly.[67] - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came home at half-past one. Found a card from Mrs. ----. I'm sorry I -didn't see her. ---- called, with one Mr. ----, kinsman to the -authoress. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -While they were here, Mrs. ---- called to settle about to-morrow's ride. -Mr. and Mrs. ---- arriving, the rest departed. We dined at three. After -dinner, came to my own room; wrote journal; went on with letter to ----. -At half-past five, went to the theatre. Play, the Gamester; my father's -benefit; the house was very good. I played pretty well. Mr. ---- -thoroughly bothered me, by standing six yards behind me: what a complete -stroller's trick that is. So we are to act on Saturday. If I can go to -the opera, all the same, I sha'n't mind so much; but I will be in most -horrible dudgeon if it prevents that, for I want to hear this new prima -donna. Mr. ---- was behind the scenes, and ---- _wrapt_, in his usual -seat: he's a delightful bit of audience. Received a bill of the intended -performances for Thursday, Mr. ----'s benefit; and such another farce as -the whole thing is I never heard of; as Mr. ---- says, "the benefit of -humbug," indeed. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came home. While we were at supper, my father showed me a note he had -received from ----, which, to use a most admirable vulgarism, struck me -all of a heap. A sort of threatening letter, desiring him, as he valued -his interest, to come forward and offer to act Charles the Second for -the said Mr. ----'s benefit, having already agreed to act in one piece, -for said Mr. ----'s benefit. "O monstrous! monstrous! most unnatural!" -What a vulgar wretch the man must be! - - -_Wednesday, 28th._ - -Mary ----'s wedding day! Poor lassie! I looked at the bright morning sun -with pleasure for her sake. After breakfast, sat reading the poems of -Willis, a young man, whose works, young as they evidently are, would -have won him some consideration in any but such a thorough work-day -world as this. I cried a good deal over some of this man's verses. I -thought some of them beautiful; and 'tis the property of beauty to stir -the wells of my soul sadly, rather than cast sunshine over them. I think -all things are sad. 'Tis sad to hear sweet music; 'tis sad to read fine -poetry; 'tis sad to look upon the beautiful face of a fair woman; 'tis -sad to behold the unclouded glory of a summer's sky. There is a deep and -lingering tone in the harmony of all beauty that resounds in our souls -with too full and solemn a vibration for pleasure alone. In fact, -_intensity_, even of joy and delight, is in itself serious; 'tis -impossible to be fulfilled with emotion of any sort, and not feel as -though we were within the shadow of a cloud.[68] I remember when first I -recited Juliet to my mother, she said I spoke the balcony scene almost -sadly. Was not such deep, deep love too strong, too passionate, too -pervading, to be uttered with the light laughing voice of pleasure? Was -not that love, even in its fulness of joy, sad--awful? However, perhaps, -I do but see through my own medium, and fancy it the universal one. My -eyes are dark, and most things look darkly through them. At about twelve -o'clock Mrs. ---- called for me; and, escorted by her husband and Mr. -----, we rode forth to visit the island. We went to a pretty cottage -belonging to Mr. ----'s father-in-law, Dr. ----. The day was still and -grey--a pleasant day; there was no sunshine, but neither were there any -dark shadows. My horse had been ill ridden by somebody or another, and -was mighty disagreeable. Our ride was pleasant enough: there was not -much variety in the country we passed through. Masses of granite and -greenish basalt, wild underwood, and vivid bright-looking cedar bushes. -The Hudson lay leaden and sullen under the wings of the restless wind. -We stood to hear the delicious music of the water plashing against the -rocky shore, which is the pleasantest sound in all the world. We then -rode to a place ycleped Hell-gate,[69] from a dangerous current in the -East river, where ships have been lost--and home through the mellow -sunlight of a warm autumnal afternoon. Came in at a little past four. -Devoured sundry puddings and pies; put out clothes for the evening; -dined at five. My father dined at ----'s: I've an especial fancy for -that man. After dinner, sat making blonde tippet, and strumming on the -piano till eight. Drank tea, dressed, and off to Mrs. ----'s "small -party, my dear." - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The people here have no conscience about the questions they ask, and, as -I have one in answering, and always give them "the truth, the whole -truth, and nothing but the truth," it follows that nothing can be more -disagreeable than their queries, except my replies. Mr. ---- was there; -I like him: he has something in him, and is not vulgar or impertinent. -Was introduced to a very handsome French creole woman,[70] whom I liked: -she reminded me of my mother, and her son bore a striking resemblance to -dear ----. We stood up to dance a couple of quadrilles; but as they had -not one distinct idea of what the figures were, the whole was a mess of -running about, explaining, jostling, and awkward blundering.[71] I took -greatly to the governess of the family, a German woman, with a right -German face, a nice person, with quiet simple manners. The women's -voices here distract me; so loud, so rapid, and with such a twang! What -a pity! for they are, almost without an exception, lovely looking -creatures, with an air of refinement in their appearance, which would be -very attractive, but for their style of dress, and those said tremendous -shrill loud voices.[72] Came home at twelve o'clock. My favourite -aversion, Mrs. ----, was there. - - -_Thursday, 29th._ - -My birth-day - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After breakfast, sat writing to dear ---- for some time. Put out things -for the theatre, and went to rehearsal. My father has received a most -comical note from one ----, a Scotch gardener, florist, and seedsman; -the original, by the by, of Galt's Lawrie Todd,--and original enough he -must be. The note expresses a great desire that my father and myself -will call upon him, for that he wishes very much to _look at us_--that -the hours of the theatre are too late for him, and that besides, he -wants to see us as ourselves, and not as "kings and princesses." I have -entreated my father to go: this man must be worth knowing. I shall -certainly keep his note. After rehearsal, came home. Wrote to ----, to -dear ----. Mr. ---- called; also Colonel ----, who gave an account of -the proceedings of the committee for ----'s benefit, which, added to the -gentleman's own note to my father, thoroughly disgusted me. And here I -do solemnly swear, never again, with my own good will, to become -acquainted with any man in any way connected with the public press. They -are utterly unreliable people, generally; their vocation requires that -they should be so; and the very few exceptions I must forego, for -however I might like them, I can neither respect nor approve of their -trade; for trade it is in the vilest sense of the word. Dined at five. -After dinner Mr. and Mrs. ---- came in. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At eight, went to the theatre. The house was, in consequence of the -raised prices, only three parts full. I just caught a glimpse of Forrest -in the fourth act of Brutus. What an enormous man he is! After the play -came sundry songs and recitations, and then Katharine and Petruchio. I -did not play well: the actors were very inattentive, as well as stupid, -and annoyed my father very much. The pit was half filled with women, -opera fashion, who, for the greater attraction of the night, and -satisfaction of themselves, were allowed to sit out of their proper -places: to be sure they had the pleasure of the society of the volunteer -heroes, who, for the benefit of Mr. ----, were all in full uniform. What -an absurdity! Swallowed an ice. Saw ----, also Mr. ----, and young ---- -behind the scenes. Came home and supped. Colonel ---- called, and -discussed, first, the farce on the boards; then the farce before the -curtain; finally, the farce of life, which, to my mind, is but a -melancholy one. - - -_Friday, 30th._ - -How the time goes! Bless the old traveller, how he posts along! After -breakfast, Mrs. ---- and her son, and Mr. ---- called. I like the -latter; his manners are very good, and he is altogether more like a -gentleman than most men here. When they were gone, walked out with my -father to ----'s. The day was grey, and cold, and damp--a real November -day, such as we know them. We held the good man's note, and steered our -course by it, and in process of time entered a garden, passed through a -green-house, and arrived in an immense and most singularly-arranged -seed-shop, with galleries running round it, and the voice of a hundred -canaries resounding through it. I don't know why, but it reminded me of -a place in the Arabian Nights. "Is Mr. ---- within?" shouted forth my -father, seeing no one in this strange-looking abode. "Yes, he is," was -replied from somewhere, by somebody. We looked about, and presently, -with his little grey bullet head, and shrewd piercing eyes, just -appearing above the counter, we detected the master of the house. My -father stepped up to him with an air like the Duke of ----, and, -returning his coarse curiously-folded note to him, said, "I presume I -am addressing Mr. ----: this, sir," drawing me forward, "is Miss Fanny -Kemble." The little man snatched off his spectacles, rushed round the -counter, rubbed his enormous hand upon his blue stuff apron, and held it -out to us with a most hearty welcome. He looked at us for some time, and -then exclaimed, "Ha! ye're her father. Well, ye'll have married pretty -early--ye look very young: I should not have been sae much surprised if -ye had called her ye're wife!" I laughed, and my father smiled at this -compliment, which was recommended by a broad Scotch twang, which always -sounds sweetly in my ears. The little man, whose appearance is that of a -dwarf in some fairy tale, then went on to tell us how Galt had written a -book all about him; how it was, almost word for word, his own story; how -he had come to this country in early life, with three halfpence in his -pocket, and a nail and hammer in his hand, for all worldly substance; -how he had earned his bread by making nails, which was his business in -Scotland; how, one day, passing by some flowers exposed for sale, he had -touched a geranium leaf by accident, and, charmed with its fragrance, -bought it, having never seen one before; how, with fifteen dollars in -his pocket, he commenced the business of a florist and gardener; and how -he had refused as many thousand dollars for his present prosperous -concern; how, when he first came to New York, the place opposite his -garden, where now stands a handsome modern dwelling-house, was the site -of a shed where he did his first bit of work; how, after six-and-twenty -years' absence from Scotland, he returned home; how he came to his -father's house--"'Twas on a bright morning in August--the eighth of -August, just, it was--when I went through the door. I knew all the old -passages so well: I opened the parlour door, and there, according to the -good old Scottish custom, the family were going to prayers afore -breakfast. There was the old Bible on the table, and the old clock -ticking in the corner of the room; there was my father in his own old -chair, exactly just where I had left him six-and-twenty years gone by. -The very shovel and tongs by the fire were the same; I knew them all. I -just sat down, and cried as sweetly as ever a man did in his life." -These were, as nearly as I can recollect, his words; and oh, what a -story! His manner, too, was indescribably vivid and graphic. My father's -eyes filled with tears. He stretched out his hand, and grasped and shook -the Scotchman's hand repeatedly without speaking; I never saw him more -excited. I never was more struck myself with the wonderful strangeness -of this bewildering life. He showed us the foot of a rude rustic-looking -table. "That," he said, "was cut from out the hawthorn hedge that grows -by my father's house; and this," showing us a wooden bowl, "is what I -take my _parritch_ in!" I asked him if he never meant to leave this -country, and return to bonny Scotland. He said, No, never: he might -return, but he never meant to settle any where but here. "For," added -he, "I have grown what I am in it, madam, and 'tis a fine country for -the poor." He had been an early martyr, too, to his political opinions; -and, when only nineteen years of age, had been imprisoned in Edinburgh -for advocating the cause of that very reform which the people are at -this moment crying jubilee over in England. He seemed to rejoice in this -country, as in the wide common land of political freedom, unbounded by -the limits of long-established prejudice, unbroken by the deep trenches -which divide class from class in the cultivated soil of the old world. I -could have listened to this strange oracle for a day; but in the midst -of his discourse he was summoned to dinner; and presenting his son to -us, who presented a nosegay to me, left us to wander about his singular -domain. His father, by the by, is still alive, and residing within six -miles of Edinburgh, a man of ninety years and upwards. We walked about -the shop, visited the birds, who are taken most admirable care of, and -are extremely beautiful. I saw several mocking birds: they should sing -well, for they are not pretty. Their plumage is of a dull grey colour, -and they are clumsy-looking birds.[73] Saw two beautiful African widow -birds, with their jet black hoods and trains. Saw an English blackbird, -and thrush, _in cages_. They made my heart ach. I wonder if they ever -think of the red ripe cracking cherries, the rich orchard lands, and the -hawthorn-hedged lanes in the summer sunsets of dear England? I did for -them. We then went and looked at a tank full of beautiful gold fish, as -they indiscriminately called them. But though the greater number were -the glittering scarlet creatures usually so denominated, some were of -the richest purple, with a soft dark bloom playing over their sides; -others, again, were perfectly brown, with a glancing golden light -shining through their scales; others were palest silver; others, again, -mingled the dazzling scarlet with spots of the most beautiful gloomy -violet, like dark-coloured jewels set in fire. Their tank was planted -with the roots of aquatic vegetables, which, in summer, spread their -cool leaves over the water, which is perpetually renewed by means of an -escape, and a little silvery fountain which keeps bubbling up in the -midst. They seemed very happy, and devoured sundry pieces of wafer -paper, while we admired them at our leisure. Saw an India-rubber tree, a -very young one, which had not attained its full growth. 'Tis a fine -broad-leaved tree, unlike any that I ever saw before. After dawdling -about very satisfactorily for some time, we departed from the dwelling -of Lawrie Todd. Of a verity, "truth is strange, stranger than fiction." -Went to a bookseller's. I bought a Bible for little ----; my father, a -Shakspeare for ----. Came home. Mr. ---- called, and gossiped some time -with me. Told me a bit of scandal, of which I had some slight suspicion -before, _i. e._ that Mr. ---- was pretty Mrs. ----'s very devoted. At -half-past four dressed for dinner. Colonel ---- called just as we were -going to dinner. At five, my father and I went to Mrs. ----'s. A -pleasant dinner. I like him enough, and I like her very much. She is -extremely pretty, and very pleasant. Sat by that tall ninny, Mr. ----, -who uttered inanity the whole of dinner-time. After dinner, the usual -entertaining half hour among the ladies passed in looking over -caricatures. When the men joined us, Mr. ---- came and sat down by me, -and in the course of a few minutes, poor Lord ---- having by chance been -mentioned, we fell into English talk; and it appears that he knows -sundry of my gracious _patrons_; among the rest, the ----s. He had been -at ----; and it pleased me to speak of it again. But what in the name of -all wonders could possess him with the idea that Lady ---- was guilty of -editing the Comic Annual. Was asked to sing, and sang "Ah no ben mio" -pretty well. Mr. ---- sang a thing of his own very well, though it was -not in itself worth much. Discussed all manner of prima donnas with him. -At half-past nine, D---- came for me, and we proceeded to the ----s. The -people here never tell one when they mean to dance; the consequence is, -that one is completely put out about one's toilet. I was in a black -satin dress; and dancing in these hot rooms, might as well have been in -a pall. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -In the middle of the evening, Dr. ---- asked if I would allow him to -introduce to me one Mr. ----, a very delightful man, full of abilities, -_and_ writer in such and such a paper. I immediately called to mind my -resolution, and refused. In the mean time, Mrs. ----, less scrupulous, -and without asking my leave, brought the gentleman up, and introduced -him. I was most ungracious and forbidding, and meant to be so. I am -sorry for this, but I cannot help it: he is ----'s brother, too, which -makes me doubly sorry. As he is an agreeable man, and ----'s brother, I -esteem and reverence him; but, as he belongs to the press gang, I will -not know him. The room was full of pretty women, one prettier than -another. I danced myself half dead, and came home. By the by, was -introduced to young ----, who, at the corner of a street, with a red cap -on his head, might pass for a capital hickory pole. Mrs. ----'s -bed-room, where we left our cloaks, made my heart ach. 'Twas exactly -like my dear little bed-room at home; the bed, the furniture, and the -rose-coloured lining, all the same. - - -_Saturday, December 1st, 1832._ - -First day of the last month of the year--go it, old fellow! I'm sick of -the road, and would be at my journey's end. Got two hundred dollars from -my father, and immediately after breakfast sallied forth: paid bills and -visits, and came home. Found my father sitting with our kinsman, Mr. -----, busily discussing the family origin, root, branches, and all. We -are an old family, they say, but the direct line is lost after Charles -the Second's reign. Our kinsman is a nice man, with a remarkably fine -face, with which I was greatly struck. When he was gone, persuaded my -father to come down and take a breathing on the Battery with me. And a -breathing it was with a vengeance. The wind blew tempestuously, the -waters, all troubled and rough, were of a yellow green colour, breaking -into short, strong, angry waves, whose glittering white crests the wind -carried away, as they sank to the level surface again. The shores were -all cold, distinct, sharp-cut, and wintry-looking, the sky was black and -gloomy, with now and then a watery wan sunlight running through it. The -wind was so powerful, we could scarcely keep our legs. My sleeves and -skirts fluttered in the blast, my bonnet was turned front part behind, -my nose was blue, my cheeks were crimson, my hair was all tangled, my -breath was gone, my blood was in a glow: what a walk! Met dear Dr. ----, -whom I love. Came in--dined. After dinner, bethought me that I had not -called upon Mrs. ----, according to promise. Sent for a coach, and set -forth thither; didn't know the number, so drove up Spring Street, and -down Spring Street, and finally stopped at a shop, got a directory, and -found the address. Sat a few minutes with her, and at five o'clock left -her. The day was already gone--the _gloamin_ come. The keen cutting wind -whizzed along the streets; huge masses of dark clouds, with soft brown -edges, lay on the pale delicate blue of the evening sky. The moon was -up, clear, cold, and radiant; the crowd had ebbed away from the busy -thoroughfare, and only a few men in great-coats buttoned up to their -chins, and women wrapped in cloaks, were scudding along in the dim -twilight and the bitter wind towards their several destinations, with a -frozen shuddering look that made me laugh. I had got perished in the -coach, and seeing that the darkness covered me, determined to walk home, -and bade the coach follow me. How pleasant it was! I walked tremendously -fast, enjoying the fresh breath of the north, and looking at the -glittering moon, as she rode high in the evening sky. How I do like -walking alone--being alone; for this alone I wish I were a man. At -half-past five, went to the theatre. The house was crammed; play, -Hunchback. I missed ---- from his accustomed seat, and found that like a -very politician he had changed sides. I played abominably; my voice was -weak and fagged. After the play, Katharine and Petruchio. I played that -better; my father was admirable--it went off delightfully. When it was -over, they called for my father, and with me in his hand he went on. The -pit rose to us like Christians, and shouted and hallooed as I have been -used to hear. I felt sorry to leave them: they are a pleasant audience -to act to, and exceedingly civil to us, and I have got rather attached -to them. New York, too, seems nearer home than any other place, and I -felt sorry to leave it. When we had withdrawn, and were going up stairs, -we heard three distinct and tremendous cheers. On asking what that -meant, we learnt 'twas a compliment to us--thank 'em kindly. Came home: -found Mr. ---- had sent me Contarini Fleming. Began reading it, and -could scarce eat my supper for doing so. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Sunday, 2d._ - -While dressing, received a "sweet note" from Mrs. ----, accompanied with -a volume of Bryant's poetry, which, as I like very much, I am her -obliged. Swallowed two mouthfuls of bread, and away to church. It was -very crowded, and a worthy woman had taken possession of the corner seat -in Mr. ----'s pew, with a fidgetting little child, which she kept -dancing up and down every two minutes: though in church, I wished for -the days of King Herod. What strange thoughts did occur to me to-day -during service! 'Tis the first Sunday in Advent. The lesson for the day -contained the history of the Annunciation. What a mystery our belief is! -how seldom it is that we consider and, as it were, _take hold_ of what -we say we believe, and when we do so, how bewildered and lost we -become,--how lost among a thousand wild imaginations,--how driven to and -fro by a thousand doubts,--how wrecked amidst a thousand fears! Surely -we should be humble: we should indeed remember that we _cannot know_, -and not strive for that knowledge which our souls will lose themselves -in seeking for, and our overstrained minds crack in reaching at. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At the end of service they sang Luther's hymn. I cried with nervous -excitement, not at that, but at my recollection of Braham's singing it -with that terrible trumpet accompaniment, that used to make my heart -stand still and listen. Stayed and took the sacrament. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came home: found a whole regiment of men. His honour the Recorder, who -is my especial delight, Mr. ----, ----, whom I greatly affection; to -these presently entered Mr. ---- and Mr. ----. They one by one bade me -good-by; how disagreeable that is, that good-by! Mr. ---- read me a -passage out of one of Jeffrey's letters, describing an English fine -lady. The picture is admirable, and most faithful; they are, indeed, -polished, brilliant, smooth as ice, as slippery, as treacherous, as -cold. When they were all gone, Colonel ---- gave me to read the -descriptive sketch of the French opera, La Tentation, that has been -setting all Paris wild. What an atrocious piece of blasphemy, indecency, -and folly--what a thoroughly French invention. Mad people! mad people! -mad people! Looked over bills, settled accounts, righted desk, tore up -papers; among others, sundry anonymous love-letters that I had treasured -up as specimens of the purely funny in composition, but which began to -take up too much room. Dressed for dinner. After dinner, sat writing -journal, and reading Contarini Fleming. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Monday, 3d._ - -Rose at half-past four. The sky was black as death, but in the night -winter had chopped his mantle on the earth, and there it lay, cold, and -purely white, against the inky sky. Dressed: crammed away all the -gleanings of the packing, and in thaw, and sleet, and rain, drove down -to the steam-boat. Went directly to the cabin. On my way thither, -managed to fall down half-a-dozen steep steps, and give myself as many -bruises. I was picked up and led to a bed, where I slept profoundly till -breakfast time. Our kinsman, Mr. ----, was our fellow-passenger: I like -him mainly. After breakfast, returned to my crib. As I was removing -Contarini Fleming, in order to lie down, a _lady_ said to me, "Let me -look at one of those books;" and, without further word of question of or -acknowledgment, took it from my hand, and began reading. I was a _little -surprised_, but said nothing, and went to sleep. Presently I was roused -by a pull on the shoulder, and another lady, rather more civil, and -particularly considerate, asked me to do her the favour of lending her -the other. I said, by all manner of means, wished her at the devil, and -turned round to sleep once more. Arrived at Amboy, we disembarked and -bundled ourselves into our coach, ourselves, our namesake, and a pretty -quiet lady, who was going, in much heaviness of heart, to see a sick -child. The roads were unspeakable; the day most delightfully -disagreeable. My bruises made the saltatory movements of our crazy -conveyance doubly torturing; in short, all things were the perfection of -misery. I attempted to read, but found it utterly impossible to do so. -Arrived at the Delaware, we took boat again; and, as I was sitting very -quietly reading Contarini Fleming, with the second volume lying on the -stool at my feet, the same unceremonious lady who had _borrowed_ it -before snatched it up without addressing a single syllable to me, read -as long as she pleased, and threw it down again in the same style when -she went to dinner. Now I know that half the people here, if they were -to read that in Mrs. Trollope, would say, "Oh, but you know she could -not have been a lady, 'tis not fair to judge of our manners by the -vulgar specimens of American society which a steam-boat may afford." -Very true: but granting that she was _not_ a lady (which she certainly -was not), supposing her to have been a housemaid, or any thing else of -equal pretensions to good breeding, the way to judge is by comparing -her, not with ladies in other countries, but with housemaids, persons in -her own condition of life; and 'tis most certain that no person -whatsoever, however ignorant, low, or vulgar, in England, would have -done such a thing as that. But the mixture of the republican feeling of -equality peculiar to this country, and the usual want of refinement -common to the lower classes of most countries, forms a singularly -felicitous union of impudence and vulgarity, to be met with no where but -in America.[74] Arrived at the Mansion House, which I was quite glad to -see again. Installed myself in a room, and, while they brought in the -packages, finished Contarini Fleming. It reminded me of Combes' book: I -wonder whether he is turning phrenologist at all? those physiological -principles were the bosom friends of the Combes' phrenological ones. -Stowed away my things, made a delicious huge wood fire, dressed myself, -and went down to dinner. Our kinsman dined with us. Mr. ---- came in -while we were at dinner. After dinner, came up to my room, continued -unpacking and putting away my things till near nine o'clock. When we -went down to tea, my father was lying on the sofa asleep, and a man was -sitting with his back to the door, reading the newspaper. He looked up -as we came in: it was ----, whom I greatly rejoiced to see again. During -tea, he told us all the Philadelphia gossip. So the ladies are all -getting up upon horses, and wearing the "_Kemble_ cap," as they call -Lady ----'s device. How she would laugh if she could hear it; how I did -laugh when I did hear it. The Kemble cap, forsooth! thus it is that -great originators too often lose the fame of their inventions, and that -the glory of a _new idea_ passes by the head that conceived it, to -encircle, as with a halo, that of some mere imitator; thus it is that -this very big world comes to be called America, and not Columbia, as it -_ought to_; thus it is--etc., etc., etc. He sat for some time. Saw poor -Mrs. ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -She is better, poor thing; I like her amazingly. - - -_Tuesday, 4th._ - -After breakfast practised for two hours. ---- called and stayed some -time. Came up to my own room; wrote journal: while doing so a note -containing two cards, and an invitation to "tea," from the Miss ----s -was brought to me. Presently I was called down to receive our kinsman, -who sat some time with me, whom I like most especially, who is a -gentleman, and a very nice person. Came up and resumed my journal: was -again summoned down to see young Mr. ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -When he was gone, finished journal, wrote to Mrs. ----, to my mother, -read a canto in Dante, and began to write a novel. Dined at five. After -dinner, put out things for this evening, played on the piano, mended -habit shirt, dressed myself, and at a quarter to ten went to the theatre -for my father. I had on the same dress I wore at Devonshire House, the -night of the last ball I was at in England, and looked at myself in -amazement, to think of all the strangenesses that have befallen since -then. We proceeded to Miss ----'s, and this tea-party turned out to be a -very crowded dance, in small rooms upon carpets, and with a roasting -fire. Was introduced to all the world and his wife. Dr. ---- claimed -acquaintance with us, and danced with me: I like his manners very much. -I have beheld Miss ----, and should doubtless now depart in peace. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Lord! Lord! what fools men and women do make themselves. Was introduced -to one Mr. ----, Mr. ----'s partner, whom I received graciously for the -sake of the good days on board the Pacific. Came away at a little after -twelve. I never felt any thing like the heat of the rooms, or heard any -thing so strange as the questions the people ask one, or saw any thing -more lovely than the full moonlight on the marble buildings of -Philadelphia. - - -_Wednesday, 5th._ - -After breakfast, practised: Mr. and Mrs. ---- called, also Dr. ----. -Went and saw poor Mrs. ---- for a little time; she interests me most -extremely--I like her very very much. Came up to my own room; read a -canto of Dante. Was called down to see folk, and found the drawing-room -literally thronged. The first face I made out was Mr. ----'s, for whom I -have taken an especial love: two ladies, a whole load of men, and Mr. -----, who had brought me a curious piece of machinery, in the shape of a -musical box, to look at. It contained a little bird, no larger than a -large fly, with golden and purple wings, and a tiny white beak. On the -box being wound up, this little creature flew out, and, perching itself -on the brink of a gold basin, began fluttering its wings, opening its -beak, and uttering sundry very melodious warblings, in the midst of -which, it sank suddenly down, and disappeared, the lid closed, and there -was an end. What a pity 'tis that we can only realise fairy-land -through the means of machinery. One reason why there is no such thing -left as the believing faculty among men, is because they have themselves -learnt to make magic, and perform miracles. When the coast was once more -clear, I returned to my room, got out things for the theatre, dined -_tete-a-tete_ with D----; my father dined at the public table. After -dinner, came up stairs, read Grahame, wrote journal, began my novel -under another shape. I can't write prose; (query, can I any thing else?) -I don't know how, but my sentences are the comicalest things in the -world; the end forgets the beginning, and the whole is a perfect -labyrinth of parenthesis within parenthesis. Perhaps, by the by, without -other view, it would be just as well if I exercised myself a little in -writing my own language, as the grammar hath it, "with elegance and -propriety." At half-past five, went to the theatre. The play was Romeo -and Juliet; the house not good. Mr. ---- played Romeo. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I acted like a wretch, of course; how could I do otherwise? Oh, Juliet! -vision of the south! rose of the garden of the earth! was this the -glorious hymn that Shakspeare hallowed to your praise? was this the -mingled strain of Love's sweet going forth, and Death's dark victory, -over which my heart and soul have been poured out in wonder and -ecstasy?--How I do loathe the stage! these wretched, tawdry, glittering -rags, flung over the breathing forms of ideal loveliness; these -miserable, poor, and pitiful substitutes for the glories with which -poetry has invested her magnificent and fair creations--the glories with -which our imagination reflects them back again. What a mass of wretched -mumming mimicry acting is! Pasteboard and paint, for the thick breathing -orange groves of the south; green silk and oiled parchment, for the -solemn splendour of her noon of night; woolen platforms and canvass -curtains, for the solid marble balconies and rich dark draperies of -Juliet's sleeping-chamber, that shrine of love and beauty; rouge, for -the startled life-blood in the cheek of that young passionate woman; an -actress, a mimicker, a sham creature, me, in fact, or any other one, for -that loveliest and most wonderful conception, in which all that is true -in nature, and all that is exquisite in fancy, are moulded into a living -form. To _act_ this! to _act_ Romeo and Juliet! horror! horror! how I do -loathe my most impotent and unpoetical craft! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -In the last scene of the play, I was so mad with the mode in which all -the preceding ones had been perpetrated, that, lying over Mr. ----'s -corpse, and fumbling for his dagger, which I could not find, I, Juliet, -thus apostrophised him,--Romeo being dead--"why, where _the_ devil _is_ -your dagger, Mr. ----!" What a disgusting travesty. On my return home, I -expressed my entire determination to my father to perform the farce of -Romeo and Juliet no more. Why, it's an absolute _shame_ that one of -Shakspeare's plays should be thus turned into a mockery. I received a -note from young Mr. ----, accompanied by a very curious nosegay in -shells; a poor substitute for the breathing, fresh, rosy flowers he used -to furnish me with, when I was last here. - - -_Thursday, 6th._ - -The morning was beautifully bright and warm, like a May morning in -England. After breakfast, practised for two hours: while doing so, was -interrupted by Mr. ----, who came to bid us good-by. He was going on to -New York, and thence to England. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -He sat some time. When he was gone, and I had finished my practising, -came up to my own room. Was summoned thence to see my kinsman, who sat -some time with me, and whom I like of all things. He makes it out (for -he seems a great meddler in these matters) that we are originally -Italian people, pirates by name, Campo Bello; the same family as the -Scottish Campbells; the same family as the Norman Beauchamps: how I only -wish it were true! I have, and always have had, the greatest love and -veneration for old blood; I would rather by far have some barbarous -Saxon giant to my ancestor, than all the wealth of the earth to my -dower. I parted from my friend with much regret; he has won my heart -fairly. When he was gone, came up to my own room. The day was brilliant -and unclouded; and, as I looked into the serene blue sky, my spirit -longed for wings. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Dr. ---- called this morning, and interested me by a long account of -Webster; in the course of which, however, he gave me, if possible, a -stronger distaste than I had before to the form of government in this -country, from various results which he enumerated as inevitably -belonging to it. Read a canto in Dante: it consoles me to read my -Italian, and forget for a time all that is. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I sat watching the glorious sunset, as it came redly streaming into my -room, touching every thing with glory, and shining through my hair upon -my book. It suggested to me a picture; and I wrote one for Mrs. ----, -who had been consulting me about a costume in which to sit for her -portrait. Dined at five: my father dined out. After dinner, sat writing -journal till ten, when he returned. The moon was shining soft and full, -and he asked me if I would take a walk. I bonneted and booted, and we -sallied forth to the Schuylkill. The moon withdrew herself behind a veil -of thin white clouds, but left a grey clear light over the earth, and -through the sky. We reached the Fair Mount bridge at about eleven. The -turnpike was fast, and every body asleep, so we climbed over the gate, -and very deliberately pursued our way through the strange dark-looking -covered bridge, where the glimmering lamps, at distant intervals, threw -the crossing beams and rafters into momentary brightness, that had a -strange effect contrasted with the surrounding gloom.[75] We reached the -other side, and, turning off from the road, began climbing the hill -opposite the breakwater. The road was muddy in the valley with heavy -rains; and unwilling to wade through the dirt, we clambered along a -paling for several yards, and so escaped the mire. My father steered for -the grassy knoll just opposite Fair Mount; and there, screened by a -thicket of young cedar bushes, with the river breaking over the broad -dam far below us, and the shadowy banks on the other side melting away -in the soft grey light, we sat down on a tree trunk. Here we remained -for upwards of a quarter of an hour without uttering a syllable; indeed, -we had not spoken three words since we set out. My father was thinking, -I presume, of ---- something; I, of the day of judgment--when these -thick forests, and wide strong waters, like a shrivelled scroll, are to -burn to ashes before the coming of God's justice. We were disturbed by a -large white spaniel dog, who, coming down from among the cedar bushes, -reminded me of the old witch stories, and Faust. We arose to depart, and -took our way towards the Market Street bridge, along the banks of the -river. The broken notes of a bugle-horn came at intervals across the -sleeping waters from the opposite shore, where shone reflected the few -lingering lights from the houses that had not yet shut up for the night. -The moon, faintly struggling through the clouds, now touched the dark -pyramids of the cedar trees that rose up into the grey sky, and threw -our shadows on the lonely path we were pursuing, now cast a pale gleam -through the rapid clouds that chased one another like dreams across the -sky. The air was soft and balmy as the night air of mid August. The -world was still; and, except our footfalls, as we trudged along, no -sound disturbed the universal repose. We did not reach home till -half-past twelve. As we walked down Market Street, through the long -ranges of casks, the only creatures stirring, except some melancholy -night-loving cat, my father said very calmly, "How I do wish I had a -gimlet."--"What for?"--"What fun it would be to pierce every one of -these barrels." For a gentleman of his years, this appeared to me rather -a juvenile prompting of Satan; and as I laughingly expostulated on the -wickedness of such a proceeding, he replied with much innocence, "I -don't think they'd ever suspect me of having done it;" and truly I don't -think they would. Came home, and to bed. That was a curious fancy of my -father's. - - -A PICTURE. - - Through the half open'd casement stream'd the light - Of the departing sun. The golden haze - Of the red western sky fell warm and bright - Into that chamber large and lone: the blaze - Touch'd slantingly curtain and couch, and threw - A glory over many an antique gem, - Won from the entombed cities that once grew - At the volcano's foot. Mingled with them - Stood crystal bowls, through which the broken ray - Fell like a shower of precious stones, and lay - Reflected upon marble; these were crown'd - With blushing flowers, fresh and glittering yet - With diamond rain-drops. On the crimson ground - A shining volume, clasp'd with gold and jet, - And broken petals of a passion-flower - Lay by the lady of this silent bower. - Her rippling hair fell from her pearly round - That strove to clasp its billowy curls: the light - Hung like a glory on their waves of gold. - Her velvet robe, in many a violet fold, - Like the dark pansy's downy leaf, was bound - With a gold zone, and clasp'd with jewels bright, - That glow'd and glanced as with a magic flame - Whene'er her measured breathing stirr'd her frame. - Upon her breast and shoulders lay a veil - Of curious needle-work, as pure and pale - As a fine web of ivory, wrought with care, - Through which her snowy skin show'd smooth and fair. - Upon the hand that propp'd her drooping head, - A precious emerald, like a fairy well, - Gleam'd with dark solemn lustre; a rich thread - Of rare round pearls--such as old legends tell - The Egyptian queen pledged to her Roman lord, - When in her cup a kingdom's price she pour'd,-- - Circled each soft white arm. A painter well - Might have been glad to look upon her face, - For it was full of beauty, truth, and grace; - And from her lustrous eyes her spirit shone - Serene, and strong, and still, as from a throne. - - -_Friday, 7th._ - -A break. Found ---- in the breakfast-room. The morning was very -unpropitious; but I settled to ride at one, if it was tolerably fine -then. He remained pottering a long time: when he was gone, practised, -habited, went in, for a few minutes, to Mrs. ----. At one the horses -came; but mine was brought without a stirrup, so we had to wait, Lord -knows how long, till the blundering groom had ridden back for it. At -length we mounted. "Handsome is that handsome does," is verity; and, -therefore, pretty as was my steed, I wished its good looks and itself at -the devil, before I was halfway down Chestnut Street. It pranced, and -danced, and backed me once right upon the pavement. We took the Laurel -Hill road. The day was the perfection of gloom--the road six inches deep -in heavy mud. We walked the whole way out! my father got the cramp, and -lost his temper. At Laurel Hill we dismounted, and walked down to the -river side. How melancholy it all looked! the turbid rhubarby water, the -skeleton woods, the grey sky, and far winding away of the dark rocky -shores; yet it was fine even in this gloom, and wonderfully still. The -clouds did not move,--the water had not the faintest ripple,--the trees -did not stir a branch; the most perfect and profound trance seemed to -have fallen upon every thing. ---- and I scrambled down the rocks -towards the water, expatiating on the capabilities of this place, which -was once a country-seat, and with very little expense might be made a -very enchanting as well as a very comfortable residence; always -excepting, of course, the chance of fever and ague during the summer -months, when the whole of the banks of the Schuylkill, high and rocky as -they are, are considered so unhealthy, that the inhabitants are obliged -to leave their houses until the winter season, when the country -naturally loses half its attractions. At half-past three, we mounted, -and, crossing the river, returned home by a much better road. My horse, -however, was decidedly a brute,--pulled my arms to pieces, cantered with -the wrong leg foremost, trotted in a sort of scuttling fashion, that -rendered it utterly impossible to rise in the stirrup, and, instead of -walking, jogged the breath out of my body. I was fairly done up when we -reached home. Dressed, and dined; ---- dined with us. After dinner, went -and sat with Mrs. ----. So it seems Carolina is in a state of -convulsion. Reports have arrived that the Nullifiers and Unionists have -had a fight in Charleston, and that lives have been lost. "Bide a wee," -as the Scotchman says; we talk a good deal on the other side the water -of matters that are far enough off; but as for America, the problem is -not yet solved--and this very crisis (a more important one than has yet -occurred in the political existence of this country) is threatening to -slacken the bonds of brotherhood between the states, and shake the -Union to its centre. The interests of the northern states are totally -different from, and in some respects opposite to, those of the southern -ones. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The tariff question is the point in debate; and the Carolinians have, it -seems, threatened to secede from the Union in consequence of the policy -pursued with regard to that. I was horrified at Dr. ----'s account of -the state of the negroes in the south. To teach a slave to read or write -is to incur a penalty either of fine or imprisonment. They form the -larger proportion of the population, by far; and so great is the dread -of insurrection on the part of the white inhabitants, that they are kept -in the most brutish ignorance, and too often treated with the most -brutal barbarity, in order to insure their subjection. Oh! what a -breaking asunder of old manacles there will be, some of these fine days; -what a fearful rising of the black flood; what a sweeping away, as by a -torrent, of oppressions and tyrannies; what a fierce and horrible -retaliation and revenge for wrong so long endured--so wickedly -inflicted. When I came in to tea, at half-past eight, found Dr. ---- -there. - - * * * * * - -When he was gone, sang a song or two, like a crow in the quinsy. - - * * * * * - - -_Wednesday, 12th._ - -After breakfast, went to rehearsal; after rehearsal, went to ----'s. It -poured with rain. Came home; put out things for the theatre; practised -for an hour; finished letter to ----; wrote journal; dined at three. -After dinner, went and sat with Mrs. ----. Sang to her all my old Scotch -ballads; read the first act of the Hunchback to her. At half-past five, -went to the theatre. Play, King John; house good: I played horribly. My -voice, too, was tired with my exertions, and cracked most awfully in the -midst of "thunder," which was rather bad. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I had finished early, and came home in my dress in order to show it to -Mrs. ----. She was just gone to bed, but admitted me. - - * * * * * - -Sat talking to her until my father came home. So "Old Hickory" means to -lick the refractory southerns: why they are coming to a civil war! -However, the grumblers haven't the means of fighting without -emancipating and arming their slaves. That they will not and dare not -do; the consequence will be, I suppose, that they will swallow the -affront, and submit. - - -_Thursday, 13th._ - -While dressing, had the pleasure of witnessing from my window a -satisfactory sample of the innate benevolence, gentleness, and humanity -of our nature: a child of about five years old, dragging a cat by a -string tied to its throat round and round a yard, till the poor beast -ceased to use its paws, and suffered itself to be trailed along the -ground, after which the little fiend set his feet upon it, and stamped -and kicked it most brutally. The blood came into my face; and, though -almost too far for hearing, I threw up the sash, and at the top of my -voice apostrophised the little wretch with "Hollo there! wicked, naughty -boy!" He seemed much puzzled to discover whence this appeal proceeded, -but not at all at a loss to apply it; for, after looking about with a -very conscience-stricken visage, he rushed into the house, dragging his -victim with him. I came down, fairly sick, to breakfast. After -despatching it, I put on my bonnet and walked round to the house where -this scene had taken place. I enquired for the child, describing his -appearance, and he was presently brought to me; when I sat down at the -foot of the stairs in the hall, and spent some time in expatiating on -the enormity of such proceedings to the little ruffian, who, it seems, -has frequently been corrected for similar ferocities before. I fear my -preachment will not avail much. Came home, put room to rights, practised -for an hour; got ready, and dawdled about most dreadfully, waiting for -D----, who had gone out with my father. At half-past twelve, set off -with her to the riding-school. It was full of women in long calico -skirts, and gay bonnets with flaunting feathers, riding like wretches; -some cantering, some trotting, some walking--crossing one another, -passing one another in a way that would have filled the soul of Fossard -with grief and amazement. I put on a skirt and my riding-cap, and -mounted a rough, rugged, besweated white-brown beast, that looked like -an old trunk more than any thing else, its coat standing literally on -end, like "quills upon the fretful porcupine," with heat and ill -condition. 'Tis vain attempting to ride like a Christian on these -heathen horses, which are neither broken, bitted, nor bridled properly; -and poor dumb _creturs_ have no more idea of what a horse ought to be, -or how a horse ought to behave, than so many cows. My hair, presently, -with the damp and the shaking, became perfectly straight. As I raised my -head, after putting it up under my cap, I beheld ---- earnestly -discoursing to D----. I asked for Tuesday's charger; and the school -having by degrees got empty, I managed to become a little better -acquainted with its ways and means. 'Tis a pretty little creature, but -'tis not half broken, is horribly ill ridden, and will never be good for -any thing--what a pity! At two o'clock I dismounted: ---- walked home -with us. Went in to see Mrs. ----: she seemed a good deal better, I -thought; sat some time with her. Mr. ---- has sent me back my book of -manuscript music: played and sang half through it. Came to my room; -tried on dresses for Lady Macbeth, and the Wonder, and dressed for -dinner. My father dined out. After dinner, went in to see Mrs. ----. Sat -some time with her mother, her chicks, and her young doctor of a cousin, -who is quite a civilised mortal. Poor Mrs. ---- was too ill to see me. -Came to the drawing-room, wrote journal, played and sang till tea-time. -After tea, read the history of Knickerbocker, whereat I was like to have -died, through the greate merrimente its rare and excellente pleasantries -did cause in me, insomuche that I lay on the sofa screaming, very much -like one lunaticke. - - -_Friday, 14th._ - -After breakfast, put out things for the theatre. Practised for an hour; -read and marked the Comedy of Errors, which is really great fun: perhaps -not funnier than Amphytrion, but the subject is more agreeable a good -deal. Read a canto in Dante; got ready for the riding-school; found ---- -and Mr. ---- in the drawing-room. As we were going out, the gentlemen -did not remain long. When they were gone, D---- and I set off for the -riding-school. We were hardly there before ---- made his appearance: I -wonder what he'll do for an _interest_, by the by, when we are gone. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The school was quite empty, so we had it all to ourselves. D---- mounted -up upon a detestable shambling brute, that wouldn't go _no how_. I had a -fancy for making my little fiery charger leap over the bar, and made Mr. ----- put it down for me. The beast had no idea of such saltatory -proceedings, and jerked himself over it three times most abominably. The -fourth time I pushed him at it, he jumped, and I jumped too, out of the -saddle on to my feet, having lighted down very comfortably at the -horse's head with the reins in my hand, neither hurt nor frightened. -This is the first time a horse ever had me off. I got on again, but -declined leaping any more. At a quarter to three we returned home. ----- walked with us. At the corner of Sansom Street, met young ----. -Heaven bless ---- from a challenge! Came home; dined: after dinner, went -in and sat with Mrs. ---- till coffee-time. Showed her my dresses, and -read her a scene or two of the Hunchback. Went to the theatre at -half-past five. Play, the Hunchback--the house was literally crammed. I -played very well, except being out in my town scene--an unwonted -occurrence with me. After the play, came home, supped, and read the -Wonder, which I thought wondrous dull. - - -_Saturday, 15th._ - -If I were to write a history of Philadelphia, according to the profound -spirit of investigation for which modern tourists are remarkable, I -should say that it was a peculiarity belonging to its climate, that -Saturday is invariably a wet day. At twelve, went to rehearsal, after -putting out things for the theatre. Had a long talk with Mr. ---- about -Pasta, the divine,--the only reality that ever I beheld that was as -fair, as grand, as glorious as an imaginary being. Shall I ever forget -that woman in Medea? I am thankful I have seen her. After rehearsal, -called at Mr. ----'s. Saw and carried off his head of me in Juliet. -Certainly the resemblance between myself and Mrs. Siddons must be very -strong; for this painting might almost have been taken for a copy of -Harlowe's sketch of my aunt in Lady Macbeth: 'tis very strange and -unaccountable. Came home; wrote journal: went and sat with Mrs. ---- -till dinner-time. After dinner, went and sat with her again till -coffee-time. Was introduced to Dr. ----, whom I liked very much. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Showed her my dress and my bracelets. Had a long discussion about the -precedence of one lady before another among the nobility of European -courts, whereat her republican pride seemed highly offended. If Clay -_did_, as Dr. ---- describes, pass before titled men, at a dinner in -England, with his hands in his breeches' pockets, it only follows thence -that he was really ill bred, and would be thought vulgar if he did it -unwittingly, and absurd if he did it intentionally. Went to the theatre -at half-past five. The house was wonderful, considering the weather: the -play was Fazio. I played pretty well: my dress was _splendid_. - - -_Sunday, 16th._ - -Had only time to swallow a mouthful of breakfast, and off to church; -where I heard about as thorough a cock and bull sermon as ever I hope to -be edified withal. What shameful nonsense the man talked! and all the -time pretending to tell us what God had done, what he was doing, and -what he intended to do next, as if he went up into heaven and saw what -was going on there, every five minutes. Came home; sat with Mrs. ---- -for a long time: I am very fond of her. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came to my own room, and studied Violante till dinner-time. How tiresome -this pointless prose is to batter into one's head. After dinner, went -and sat with Mrs. ---- till near tea-time, when I came to the -drawing-room. Presently, Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- called, also Dr. ----. I -went to my father's room to apprise him of this invasion of the Goths, -and found him very unwell, and labouring under a severe cold. He would -not come down; so D---- and I had to entertain these interesting youths -what fashion we best might. She gave them tea, and I gave them music, -till half-past ten, when they departed. - - -_Monday, 17th._ - -It poured with rain like the very mischief: a sort of continual -gushing down from the clouds, combining all the vehemence of a -thunder shower with all the pertinacity of one of our own November -drizzles--delightful! Went to rehearse Macbeth. Had a delightful palaver -with Mr. ----, who knows all the music that ever was writ, and all the -singers that ever sang, and worships Pasta as I do. Came home; put out -things for the theatre: dined at three. After dinner, went and sat with -Mrs. ---- till coffee-time. At half-past five, went to the theatre. In -spite of the rain, the house was very full; and in all my life I never -saw so large an assembly of people so perfectly and breathlessly still -as they were during several of our scenes. I played like a very clever -girl as I am; but it was about as much like Lady Macbeth as the Great -Mogul. My father laboured his part too much. - - -_Tuesday, 18th._ - -Received letters; one from dear ----, and one from ----. They did as -letters from England always do by me,--threw me into a perfect nervous -fever. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After breakfast, went to rehearse the Wonder. Called in on my way on Mr. -----, who is painting a portrait of my father. Saw one or two lovely -women's pictures. I wish he would go to England: I think it would answer -his purpose very well. At two, went to the riding-school: rode till -half-past three. The day was bitter cold, with a piercing wicked wind -riding through the grey sky. D---- and I walked to pay sundry calls. Met -----, whom we had not seen for two or three days--a most unusual -circumstance. He walked home with us. D---- and I dined _tete-a-tete_. -On returning home, I found a most lovely nosegay of real, delicious, -fragrant flowers. Sweet crimson buds of the faint-breathing monthly -rose; bright vivid dark green myrtle; the honey Daphne Odora, with its -clusters of pinky-white blossoms; and the delicate bells of the tall -white jasmine,--all sweet, and living, and fresh, as at midsummer: I was -blissful! After dinner, I went in to Mrs. ----. Came back to the -drawing-room. ----, who had taken the hint about our being alone in the -evening, came in. I began making him sing, and taught him the Leaf and -the Fountain: his voice sounded like when we were nearer home. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Presently Mr. ---- was announced. He was the author of the flowers. - - * * * * * - - -_Wednesday, 19th._ - -After breakfast, ---- called. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Went to rehearsal,--afterwards, to the riding-school. The school was -quite empty, and I alone. The boy brought me my horse, and I mounted by -means of a chair. As I was cantering along, amusing myself with -cogitations various, ---- came in. He stayed the whole time I rode. I -settled with him about riding to-morrow, and came home to dinner. After -dinner, went in to see Mrs. ----: Dr. ---- was there, who is a -remarkably nice man. She is a very delightful person, with a great deal -of intellect, and a wonderful quantity of fortitude and piety, and a -total absence of knowledge of the world, except through books. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Her children enchant me, and her care of them enchants me too. She is an -excellent person, with a heart overflowing with the very best affections -our nature is capable of, fulfilled, I think, to the uttermost. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Stayed with her till time to go to the theatre. The house was very full: -the play was the Wonder--my first time of acting Violante. My dress was -not finished till the very last moment,--and then, oh, horror! was so -small that I could not get into it. It had to be pinned upon me; and -thus bebundled, with the dread of cracking my bodice from top to bottom -every time I moved, and the utter impossibility of drawing my breath, -from the narrow dimensions into which it squeezed me, I went on to play -a new part. The consequence was that I acted infamously, and for the -first time in my life was horribly imperfect--out myself and putting -every body else out. Between every scene my unlucky gown had to be -pinned together; and in the laughing scene, it took the hint from my -admirable performance, and facetiously grinned in an ecstasy of -amusement till it was fairly open behind, displaying, I suppose, the -lacing of my stays, like so many teeth, to the admiring gaze of the -audience; for, as I was perfectly ignorant of the circumstance, with my -usual easy _nonchalance_, I persisted in turning my back to the folk, -in spite of all my father's pulls and pushes, which, as I did not -comprehend, I did not by any means second either. ---- was at the play, -also Dr. ----, also Henry Clay, who was received with cheers and -plaudits manifold. Came home in my dress, and went in to show it to Mrs. ----- and her mother, who were both in bed, but marvellously edified by -my appearance. - - -_Thursday, 20th._ - -The day was beautifully brilliant, clear, and cold--winter, but winter -in dazzling array of sunshine and crystal; blue skies, with light -feathery streaks of white clouds running through them; dry, crisp, hard -roads, with the delicate rime tipping all the ruts with sparkling -jewellery; and the waters fresh, and bright, and curling under the keen -breath of the arrow-like wind. After breakfast, ---- called. Walked out -with him to get a cap and whip for D----. The latter he insisted on -making her a present of, and a very pretty one indeed it was, with a -delicate ivory handle, and a charming persuading lash. Went in for a -short time to Mrs. ----, who entertained herself with letting all my -hair down about my ears, and pulling it all manner of ways. At twelve -habited, and helped to equip dear D----, who really looked exceedingly -nice in her jockey habiliments. Went to the school, where we found ---- -waiting for us. Mounted and set forth. We rode out to Laurel Hill. The -road was not very good, but no mud; and the warm gleesome sunlight fell -mellowly over the lovely undulations of the land, with their patches of -green cedar trees, and threadbare cloak of leafless woods, through which -the little birds were careering merrily, as the reviving sunshine came -glowingly down upon the world, like a warm blessing. Passed that bright -youth, Mr. ----, on the road, riding very like an ass on horseback. When -we reached Laurel Hill, we dismounted, tied up the horses, slacked their -girths, and walked first up to that interesting wooden monument, where I -inscribed my initials on our first ride thither. Afterwards, ---- and I -scrambled down the rocks to the river side, which D---- declined doing, -_'cause vy?_--she'd have had to climb up again. The water was like a -broad dazzling river of light, and had a beautiful effect, winding away -in brightness that the eye could scarce endure, between its banks, -which, contrasted by the sunny stream, and blue transparent sky, -appeared perfectly black. As I bent over a fine _bluff_ (as they here -call any mass of rock standing isolated), I espied below me a natural -rocky arch, overhanging the river, all glittering with pure long diamond -icicles. Thither ---- convoyed me, and broke off one of these wintry -gems for me. It measured about two feet long, and was as thick at the -root as my wrist. I never saw any thing so beautiful as these pendant -adornments of the silver-fingered ice god. Toiled up to the house again, -where, after brushing our habits, we remounted our chargers, and came -home. The river was most beautiful towards the bridge that they are -building: the unfinished piers of which have a very pretty effect, -almost resembling their very opposite, a ruin. The thin pale vapour of -the steam-engine, employed in some of the works, rising from the blue -water, and rolling its graceful waves far along the dark rocky shore, -had a lovely fairy-like look, which even drew forth the admiration of -----, who, from sundry expressions which have occasionally fallen from -him, I suspect to be rather well endowed with ideality. Reached home at -half-past four. My father dined out. It was past ----'s dinner-time; so -we invited him to stay and dine with us. After dinner, we fell somehow -or another into a profound theological discussion; ---- suddenly -proposing for my solution the mysterious doctrine of the inherent sin of -our nature, and its accompanying doom, death,--inherited from one man's -sin, and one man's punishment. I am not fond of discoursing upon these -subjects. 'Tis long since I have arrived at the conviction that the less -we suffer our thoughts to dwell upon what is vague and mysterious in our -most mysterious faith, and the more we confine our attention and our -efforts to that part of it which is practical and clear as the noon-day, -the better it will be for our minds here, and our souls hereafter. -Surely they are not wise who seek to penetrate the unfathomed counsels -of God, whilst their own natures, moral, mental, nay, even physical, -have depths beyond the sounding of their plummet line. ---- spoke in -perfect sincerity and simplicity of the difficulty he found in believing -that which was so "hard a saying;" and, as there was not the slightest -particle of levity or ridicule in his manner, I spoke as earnestly as I -felt and always feel upon this subject,--very strenuously advising him -not to strain his comprehension upon matters which baffle human -endeavour, which, after all our wanderings and weary explorings, still -lead us back to the wide boundless waste of uncertainty; concluding by -exhorting him to read his Bible, say his prayers, and go to church if -he could,--or, if he could not, at all events to be as good as he could. -While we were at tea, young ---- and Dr. ---- came in. They put me down -to the piano, and I continued to sing until past eleven o'clock, when, -somebody looking at a watch, there was a universal exclamation of -surprise, the piano was shut down, the candles put out, the gentlemen -vanished, and I came to bed. - - -WINTER. - - I saw him on his throne, far in the north, - Him ye call Winter, picturing him ever - An aged man, whose frame, with palsied shiver, - Bends o'er the fiery element, his foe. - But him I saw was a young god, whose brow - Was crown'd with jagged icicles, and forth - From his keen spirit-like eyes there shone a light, - Broad, glaring, and intensely cold and bright. - His breath, like sharp-edged arrows, pierced the air; - The naked earth crouch'd shuddering at his feet; - His finger on all murmuring waters sweet - Lay icily,--motion nor sound was there; - Nature seem'd frozen--dead; and still and slow - A winding-sheet fell o'er her features fair, - Flaky and white, from his wide wings of snow. - - -I am sorry to find that I must skip Friday and Saturday, thereby -omitting an account of an interesting ball at Mrs. ----'s, where the -floors were duly chalked, the music very good, the women very lovely, -and where I fell in again with my dear kinsman, whom I love devotedly, -and whom I jumped half across a quadrille to greet with extended hands, -which must greatly have edified the whole assembly. Likewise I must skip -a most interesting account of a second polemical conversation with ----; -in the course of which, to my great amazement, he managed to introduce a -most vehement abuse of Dr. ----, whose admiration of my singing appears -to have troubled him fully as much as the doctrine of original -sin,--together with many other things worthy of note, which shall now -die in oblivion, and the times return unenlightened to their graves. - - -_Sunday, 23d._ - -Was only dressed in time to swallow two mouthfuls of breakfast, and get -ready for church. ---- came to know at what time we would ride, and -walked with us to the church door. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After church, came home,--habited; went and sat with Mrs. ---- till -half-past one. The villanous servants did not think fit to announce the -horses till they had been at the door full half an hour, so that when we -started it was near two o'clock. D---- seemed quite at her ease upon her -gangling charger, and I had gotten up upon Mr. ----'s big horse, to see -what I could make of him. The day was beautifully bright and clear, with -a warm blessed sunshine causing the wintry world to smile. We had -proceeded more than halfway to Laurel Hill without event, when, driving -my heavy-shouldered brute at a bank, instead of lifting up his feet, he -thought fit to stumble, fall, and fling me very comfortably off upon the -mound. I sprang up neither hurt nor frightened, shook my habit, -tightened my girths, and mounted again; when we set off, much refreshed -by this little incident, which occasioned a world of mirth and many -saucy speeches from my companions to me. At Laurel Hill the master of -the house came bowing forth with the utmost courteousness to meet me, -expressing his profound sense of the honour I did him in deigning to -inhale the air around his abode, and his unspeakable anguish at having -been absent when I had so far condescended before. He was a -foreigner,--French or Italian, or _such like_,--which accounts for his -civility. Had the horses taken to the stable, and their girths -slackened. D---- kept the heights, and ---- and I ran, slipped, slid, -and scrambled down to the water's edge. The river was frozen over, not, -however, strongly enough to bear much, and every jutting rock was hung -with pure glittering icicles that shone like jewels in the bright -sunshine. Far down the river all was still and lonely, and bright, yet -wintry-looking. The flow of the water and its plashing music were still; -there was no breath of wind stirring the leafless boughs; the sunlight -came down, warm and dazzling upon the silent sparkling world, all clad -in its shimmering ice robe: the air was transparent and clear, and the -whole scene was perfectly lovely. Taming to re-ascend the rocks, I -called aloud to D----, and the distinctest loudest echo answered me. So -perfect was the reflection of the sound, that at first I thought some -one was mocking me. I ran up a scale as loud, and high, and rapid as I -could; and, from among the sunny fields, a voice repeated the threaded -notes as clearly, as rapidly, only more softly, with a distinctness that -was startling. I never heard an echo that repeated so much of what was -sung or said. I stood in perfect enchantment, exercising my voice, and -provoking the hidden voice of the air, who answered me with a far-off -tone, that seemed as though the mocking spirit fled along the hill tops, -repeating my notes with a sweet gleeful tone that filled me with -delight. Oh, what must savages think an echo is? How many many lovely -and wild imaginations are suggested by that which natural philosophers -analyse into mere conformations of earth and undulations of air! At -length we joined D----, and walked to the house, where presently -appeared the master of the mansion, with cakes, wine, cordial, -preserves, or, as Comus hath it, "a table covered with all manner of -deliciousness." I was at first a little puzzled by the epithet _cordial_ -applied to three goodly-looking _decanters_ full of rosy and golden -liquor, and which ---- informed me is the invariable refreshment -presented to visiters of both sexes who ride or drive up to Laurel Hill. -To satisfy my curiosity, I put my lips to some of it, which proved to be -no other than liqueur, an indifferent sort of noyau--that which soberest -folks in England take but a thimble-full of after dinner, by way of -_chasse-cafe_, and drunkenest folk would be ashamed to touch in the -morning. It seems that it is otherwise here; and, indeed, generally -speaking, Americans swallow much more of all sorts of spirituous -nauseousness than we do in our country. The men take brandy, in a way -that would astound people of any respectability in England, and in this, -as well as many other ways, contribute to assist the enervating effects -of their climate.[76] Our host waited himself most attentively upon us, -and refused all species of remuneration save thanks, which, indeed, he -said he owed me for so far honouring him as to stuff his cakes and -drink his wine. We mounted again, being refreshed, and, taking leave of -this pearl of innkeepers, continued our ride along the banks of the -Schuylkill, until we came to Manayunk, a manufacturing place, where they -create cottons, and which has the additional advantage of being most -lovelily situated upon the banks of the river, backed by rocky heights, -where the cedar bushes, with their rich dark tufts, and the fine bold -masses of grey granite, together with a hundred little water-courses now -hanging from every ridge they used to flow over in brilliant ice -pendants, had a most beautiful effect. It was getting late, however, and -we pushed on to the bridge; but, lo! when we reached it, it was under -repair and impassable. What was to be done? the sun had withdrawn his -warm rays from the heavens,--the lower earth was shadowy and dark,--a -rich orange light hung over the brow of the ridge of hills on the -opposite side of the river, whose current, rapid and strong, flowed -darkly between beautiful slabs of granite which lay in its path, and -round which the water hurried angrily. What was to be done? To turn back -was disheartening,--to go on for the chance of a bridge was also to run -the chance of being utterly benighted in paths we knew nothing of, and -on horses which were any thing but safe. However, my evident inclination -to the latter course prevailed with my companions. We crossed a narrow -bridge, and pursued a sort of tow-path between the canal and the river. -The glimmering daylight was fading fast from the sky, and the opposite -shores of the river were losing their distinctness of outline, when, -from between two beautiful bold masses of rock which overhung its -entrance, the wooden bridge appeared. I should like to have lingered in -this spot till nightfall, but this was by no means the bargain either -with my fellow-travellers or my horse. So on we went over the bridge, -and, turning to the left, pursued the river's side,--now close down to -its gushing fretful waters, hurrying from between the rocky impediments -of their path,--now high above its course, in the midst of woods growing -to the very edge of the precipitous bank, with rocky ridges rising again -above us, crowned with the black-looking tufts of the cedar, jagged with -icicles, and from which descended, at every ten yards, a trickling rill, -which, smoothed over by the glassy ice, rendered our horses' footing, -particularly in the twilight, very insecure. We were _in for it_; and -when that is the case, 'tis vain making lamentations or piteous -retrospections: I therefore pushed on, with as much care as I could of -Mr. ----'s tumble-down charger, whose headlong motion kept me in -agonies, leaving ---- to take care of dear D----, whose bones I feared -would ach for this adventure most bitterly. The road was perfectly -beautiful. Broad masses of shadowy clouds hung in the sky, and were -reflected in the waters, together with the pale delicate grey of -evening, and the last amber tinge of sunset. We did not reach -Philadelphia till it was perfectly dark. To add to my consternation, -too, when we asked ---- to dine with us, he said that he had an -engagement, for which I began to fear this ill-starred ride would have -kept him too late. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I came up to my own room, changed my clothes, and went in to see Mrs. -----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -She was completely overpowered with laudanum. Her head was declined upon -a chair. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -She looked very lovely, with her beautiful head bowed, and her dark -eyelashes lying on her wan cheeks. Her features were contracted with -suffering. I sat watching her with much heartfelt sadness and interest. -I was summoned away, however, to see some gentlemen who were in the -drawing-room, whither I adjourned, and where I found Mr. ---- and Dr. -----. I was stupid and sleepy, and the gentlemen had the charity not to -keep me up, or make me sing. - - -_Monday, 24th, Christmas-eve._ - -After breakfast, put out clothes for to-night. When I came down, found ----- in the drawing-room with my father: paid him his bill, and pottered -an immensity. Went to rehearsal,--afterwards paid all manner of cards -with poor dear D----, who puffed and panted through the streets in order -not to freeze me, which, however, she did not escape. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After dinner, went and sat with my poor invalid, whom, in spite of her -republicanism, I am greatly inclined to like and admire. Remained with -her till coffee-time. Went to the theatre: the play was the Merchant of -Venice,--my favourite part, Portia. The house was very full: I played -so-soish. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Tuesday, 25th, Christmas-day._ - -I wish you a merry Christmas, poor child! away from home and friends. -Truly, the curse of the old Scriptures has come upon me; my lovers and -my acquaintance are far off from me. After breakfast, practised for and -hour; went and saw Mrs. ----; drove out shopping; saw ---- walking with -my father. Came home and wrote journal: went out with D----; bought a -rocking-horse for Mrs. ----'s chicks, whose merry voices I shall miss -most horribly by and by. Dragged it in to them in the midst of their -dinner. Dined at three. After dinner, went and sat with her till -coffee-time. When I came into the drawing-room, found a beautiful -work-box sent me by that very youthful admirer of mine, Mr. ----. I was -a little annoyed at this, but still more so at my father's desiring me -to return it to him, which I know will be a terrible mortification to -him. Went to the theatre: the house was crammed with men, and very -noisy,--a Christmas audience. Play, Macbeth: I only played so-so. Oh, -me! these marks in the stream of time, over which it breaks as over a -dam, drawing our attention, which without them would even less often -note its rapid, rapid current! They do but become halting-posts for our -souls, round which gather the memories of days and hours escaped and -gone from us for ever.[77] - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Wednesday, 26th._ - -After breakfast, put out things for theatre. When I came down to the -drawing-room, I found a middle-aged gentleman of very respectable -appearance sitting with my father. He rose on my coming in, and, after -bowing to me, continued his discourse to my father thus:--"Yes, sir, -yes; you will find as I tell you, sir, the winter is our profitable -theatrical season, sir; so that if any thing should take you to England, -you can return again at the beginning of next fall." I modestly withdrew -to another end of the room, supposing they were engaged upon business. -But my curiosity was presently attracted by the continuation of his -discourse. "And recollect, sir, and this lady, your daughter, too, if -you please, that what I have said must not on any account be repeated -out of this room. I am myself going immediately to England, and from -thence direct to _Jerusalem_!" I stared. "There, sir, is my real name, -----: the card I sent up to you is not my real name. You see, sir, I am -an Irishman, that is to say, in fact, I am really a Jew. _I am one of -those of the tribe of Ephraim who refused to cross the Red Sea: we were -not to be humbugged by that damned fellow, Moses,--no, sir, we were -not!_" Here my heart jumped into my throat, and my eyes nearly out of my -head with fright and amazement. "Well," continued the poor madman, "I -suppose I may deliver this to the young lady herself;" giving me a small -parcel, which I took from him as if I thought it would explode and blow -me up. "And now, sir, farewell. Remember remember, my words,--in three -years, perhaps, but _certainly_ in ten, _He_ that will come _will come_, -and it's all up with the world, and the children of men!" This most -awful announcement was accompanied with a snap of his fingers, and a -demi-pirouette. He was then rushing out of the room, leaving his cloak -behind him. My father called him back to give it him. He bundled himself -into it, exclaimed, "God bless you both! God bless you both!--remember, -what I have said requires the profoundest secrecy, as you perceive," and -darted out of the room, leaving my father and myself with eyes and mouth -wide open, gaping in speechless astonishment. At last I bethought me of -opening the little packet the madman had left me. It was a small box, on -the cover of which was written, To Miss Kemble, with the compliments of -St. George. I then recollected, that some time past I had received some -verses, in which love and religion were very crazily blended, signed St. -George. But, as I am abundantly furnished with epistles of this sort, I -had flung them aside, merely concluding the writer to be gone a short -way from his wits. The box contained a most beautiful and curious -ornament, something like a Sevigne, highly wrought in gold and enamel, -and evidently very costly. I was more confounded than ever, and did not -recover from my amazement and fright for a long time. I went in to Mrs. ----- to tell her the event. Thence we began talking about young ----'s -box; and, upon her advice, I again spoke to my father and obtained his -leave not to send it back; so I indited him a thankful epistle. -Practised for a short time, and then went to the riding-school. It was -quite empty: I put on my cap and skirt, and was sitting, thinking of -many things, in the little dressing-room, when I heard the school-door -open, and Mr. ---- walked straight up to me. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Dr. ---- called to-day. I was quite glad to see him: he gave me all the -New York news, and brought with him a gentleman, a friend of his, who -nearly made me sick by very deliberately spitting upon the carpet. Mercy -on me! I thought I should have jumped off my chair, I was so disgusted. -Mr. ----, too, does this constantly. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After dinner, went and sat with Mrs. ----; was called away to see Mr. -----, whom I thanked for his present. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Went to the theatre at half-past five. The house was very fair, -considering the weather, which was very foul. Play, School for Scandal. -They none of them knew their parts, or remembered their -business--delightful people, indeed! I played only so-so. ---- supped -with us. He is a very gentlemanly nice person, and I am told he is -extremely amiable. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -He told me sundry steam-boat stories that made my blood curdle; such as, -a public brush, a public comb, and a public _tooth-brush_. Also, of a -gentleman who was using his own tooth-brush,--a man who was standing -near him said, "I'll trouble you for that article when you've done with -it." When he had done with it, the gentleman presented it to him, and on -receiving it again, immediately threw it into the river, to the infinite -amazement of the borrower, who only exclaimed, "Well, however, you're a -queer fellow."[78] - - -_Thursday, 27th._ - -After breakfast, went to rehearsal. Katharine and Petruchio. After -rehearsal, went to the riding-school. It was quite empty, except of Mr. -----, and Mr. ----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came home: found a letter to me from that strange madman. On opening it, -it proved a mere envelope, containing a visiting-card with the name St. -George upon it. After dinner, wrote journal; went and sat with Mrs. ---- -till coffee-time. I have had a most dreadful side-ach all day. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At half-past five, went to the theatre. Play, Much Ado about Nothing; -farce, Katharine and Petruchio. - - * * * * * - -At the end I was so tired, and so overcome with the side-ach, that I lay -down on the floor perfectly done up. - - -_Friday, 28th._ - -After breakfast, ---- called. Settled to ride, if possible, to-morrow. I -would give the world for a good shaking. I'm dying of the blue devils: I -have no power to rouse myself. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -When ---- was gone, sat down to practise. Tried Mrs. Hemans's Messenger -Bird, but the words were too solemn and too sad: I sobbed instead of -singing, and was a little relieved. Went in to see Mrs. ----. She seemed -better; she was _en toilette_, in a delicate white wrapper, with her -fine hair twisted up round her classical head. She is a beautiful -person; she is better--an amiable, a sensible, and a pious one; I am -very deeply interested by her; I like her extremely. At half-past one, -went to the riding-school. I met there a daughter of old Lady ----'s, -who introduced herself to me, and asked leave to stay and see me ride, -which leave I gave her. The bay pony is, however, fairly ruined. A -little wretch not twelve years old had just been riding it: it had -fallen from all its paces, and went so lame that I gave up riding, and -sat disconsolately enough in the little dressing-closet, looking through -a window six inches square, at the blessed mild blue heavens, and -longing for wings, till my soul was like to faint. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After dinner, wrote journal. Went in and sat with Mrs. ----. By the by, -that worthy youth, Mr. ----, dined with us. I got rid of some of my -vapours by sundry hearty laughs at him. I am sorry to leave Philadelphia -on Mrs. ----'s account. I am growing to her. Oh, Lord! how soon, how -soon we do this!--how we do cling to every thing in spite of the -pitiless wrenches of time and chance! Her dear babies are delightful to -me; their laughing voices have power to excite and make me happy,--and -when they come dancing to meet me, my heart warms very fondly towards -them. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -She amuses me much by her intense anxiety that I should be married. -First, she wishes ---- would propose to me; then she thinks Mr. ----'s -estates in Cuba would be highly acceptable; in short, my single -blessedness seems greatly to annoy her, and I believe she attributes -every thing evil in life to that same. She seemed surprised, and a -little shocked, when I said I would accept death most thankfully in -preference to the happiest lot in life,--and so I would--I would. Yet -death----. 'Tis strange, that Messenger Bird threw more than a passing -gloom over me. If the dead do indeed behold those whom they have loved, -with loving eyes and fond remembrance, do not the sorrows, the -weariness, the toiling, the despairing of those dear ones rise even into -the abodes of peace, and wring the souls of those who thence look down -upon the earth, and see the woe and anguish suffered here? Or, if they -do not feel,--if, freed from this mortal coil, they forget all they have -suffered, all that we yet endure, oh! then what fourfold trash is human -love! what vain and miserable straws are all the deep, the dear, the -grasping affections twined in our hearts' fibres,--mingled with our -blood! How poor are all things,--how beggarly is life! Oh! to think that -while we yet are bowed in agony, and mourning over the dead,--while our -bereaved hearts are aching, and our straining eyes looking to that -heaven, beyond which we think they yet may hear our cries, they yet may -see our anguish, the dead, the loved, the mourned, nor see, nor hear; or -if they do, look down with cold and careless gaze upon the love that -lifts our very souls in desperate yearning towards them. Yet one of the -two must surely be: either the other life is like this, a life of pain, -though not like this, perhaps, a life of selfishness; or this earth, and -time, and all they hold, are a more hollow mockery than even I sometimes -dream they are. I will not think any more of it. We went to the theatre -at half-past five. Play, Hunchback; after it, Katharine and Petruchio. I -thought I should have died of the side-ach,--I was in perfect agony. The -people here are more civil and considerate than can be imagined. I sent, -yesterday evening, for some water-ice: the confectioner had none; when, -lo! to-night he brings me some he has made on purpose for me, which he -entreats my acceptance of. I admired a very pretty fan Mrs. ---- had in -her hand; and at the end of the play she had it sent to my -dressing-room;--and these sort of things are done by me, not once, but -ten times every day. Nothing can exceed the kindness and attention which -has encountered us every where since we have been in this country. I am -sure I am bound to remember America and Americans thankfully; for, -whatever I may think of their ways, manners, or peculiarities, to me -they have shown unmingled good will, and cordial real kindness. Remained -up, packing, till two o'clock. - - -TO ---- ----. - - Many a league of salt sea rolls - Between us, yet I think our souls, - Dear friend, are still as closely tied - As when we wander'd side by side, - Some seven years gone, in that fair land - Where I was born. As hand in hand - We lived the showery spring away, - And, when the sunny earth was gay - With all its blossoms, still together - We pass'd the pleasant summer weather, - We little thought the time would come, - When, from a trans-Atlantic home, - My voice should greet you lovingly - Across the deep dividing sea. - Oh, friend! my heart is sad: 'tis strange, - As I sit musing on the change - That has come o'er my fate, and cast - A longing look upon the past, - That pleasant time comes back again - So freshly to my heart and brain, - That I half think the things I see - Are but a dream, and I shall be - Lying beside you, when I wake, - Upon the lawn beneath the brake, - With the hazel copse behind my head, - And the new-mown fields before me spread. - - It is just twilight: that sweet time - Is short-lived in this radiant clime,-- - Where the bright day, and night more bright, - Upon the horizon's verge unite, - Nor leave those hours of ray serene, - In which we think of what has been: - And it is well; for here no eye - Turns to the distant days gone by: - - They have no legendary lore - Of deeds of glory done of yore,-- - No knightly marvel-haunted years, - The nursery tales of adult ears: - The busy present, bright to come, - Of all their thoughts make up the sum: - Little their little past they heed; - Therefore of twilight have no need. - - Yet wherefore write I thus? In the short span - Of narrow life doled out to every man, - Though he but reach the threshold of the track, - Where from youth's better path, strikes out the worse, - If he has breathed so long, nor once look'd back, - He has not borne life's load, nor known God's curse. - - And yet, but for that glance that o'er and o'er - Goes tearfully, where we shall go no more; - Courting the sunny spots, where, for a day, - Our bark has found a harbour on its way; - O! but for this, this power of conjuring - Hours, days, and years into the magic ring, - Bidding them yield the show of happiness, - To make our real misery seem less, - Life would be dreary. But these memories start, - Sometimes, unbidden on the mourner's heart; - Unwish'd, unwelcome, round his thoughts they cling,-- - In vain flung off, still dimly gathering, - Like melancholy ghosts, upon the path - Where he goes sadly, seeking only death. - - Then live again the forms of those who lie - Gather'd into the grave's dark mystery. - Vainly at reason's voice the phantom flies,-- - It comes, it still comes back to the fond eyes,-- - Still, still the yearning arms are spread to clasp - The blessing that escapes their baffled grasp: - Still the bewildering memory mutters "Gone!" - Still, still the clinging aching heart loves on. - Oh, bitter! that the lips on which we pour - Love's fondest kisses, feel the touch no more; - Oh, lonely! that the voice on which we call - In agony, breaks not its silent thrall; - Oh, fearful! that the eyes in which we gaze - With desperate hope through their thick filmy haze, - Return no living look to bless our sight! - Oh, God! that it were granted that one might - But once behold the secret of the grave,-- - That but one voice from the all-shrouding cave - Might speak,--that but one sleeper might emerge - From the deep death-sea's overwhelming surge! - Speak, speak from the grey coffins where ye lie - Fretting to dust your foul mortality! - Speak, from your homes of darkness and dismay,-- - To what new being do ye pass away?-- - O _do_ ye live, indeed?--speak, if on high - One atom springs whose doom is not to die!-- - Where have I wandered? - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Saturday, 29th._ - -When I came down to breakfast, found a very pretty diamond ring and some -Scotch rhymes, from Mr. ----, what we call a small return of favours. I -wish my hand wasn't so abominably ugly,--I hate to put a ring upon it. ----- called to see if we would ride; but D---- had too much to do; and, -after sitting pottering for some time, I sang him the Messenger Bird, -and sent him away. Went for a few moments to Mrs. ----, who seemed much -better. Went out to pay sundry bills and visits. Called at Mr. ----'s, -and spent half an hour most delightfully in his study. His picture of my -father is very like, and very agreeable. 'Tis too youthful by a good -deal; but the expression of the face is extremely good, and upon the -whole, except that stern-looking thing of Kearsley's, 'tis the likest -thing I have seen of him. We had a long discussion about the -stage,--the dramatic art; which, as Helen says, "is none," for, "no art -but taketh time and pains to learn." Now I am a living and breathing -witness that a person may be accounted a good actor, and to a certain -degree deserve the title, without time or pains of any sort being -expended upon the acquisition of the reputation. But, on other grounds, -acting has always appeared to me to be the very lowest of the arts, -admitting that it deserves to be classed among them at all, which I am -not sure it does. In the first place, it originates nothing; it lacks, -therefore, the grand faculty which all other arts possess--creation. An -actor is at the best but the filler-up of the outline designed by -another,--the expounder, as it were, of things which another has set -down; and a fine piece of acting is at best, in my opinion, a fine -translation. Moreover, it is not alone to charm the senses that the -nobler powers of mind were given to man; 'tis not alone to enchant the -eye, that the gorgeous pallet of the painter, and the fine chisel of the -statuary, have become, through heavenly inspiration, magical wands, -summoning to life images of loveliness, of majesty, and grace; 'tis not -alone to soothe the ear that music has possessed, as it were, certain -men with the spirit of sweet sounds; 'tis not alone to delight the -fancy, that the poet's great and glorious power was given him, by which, -as by a spell, he peoples all space, and all time, with undying -witnesses of his own existence; 'tis not alone to minister to our senses -that these most beautiful capabilities were sown in the soil of our -souls. But 'tis that, through them, all that is most refined, most -excellent and noble, in our mental and moral nature, may be led through -their loveliness, as through a glorious archway, to the source of all -beauty and all goodness. It is that by them our perceptions of truth may -be made more vivid, our love of loveliness increased, our intellect -refined and elevated, our nature softened, our memory stored with images -of brightness, which, like glorious reflections, falling again upon our -souls, may tend to keep alive in them the knowledge of, and the desire -after, what is true, and fair, and noble. But, that art may have this -effect, it must be to a certain degree enduring. It must not be a -transient vision, which fades and leaves but a recollection of what it -was, which will fade too. It must not be for an hour, a day, or a year, -but abiding, inasmuch as any thing earthly may abide, to charm the sense -and cheer the soul of generation after generation. And here it is that -the miserable deficiency of acting is most apparent. Whilst the poems, -the sculptures, of the old Grecian time yet remain to witness to these -latter ages the enduring life of truth and beauty; whilst the poets of -Rome, surviving the trophies of her thousand victories, are yet familiar -in our mouths as household words; whilst Dante, Boccaccio, that giant, -Michael Angelo, yet live, and breathe, and have their being amongst us, -through the rich legacy their genius has bequeathed to time; whilst the -wild music of Salvator Rosa, solemn and sublime as his painting, yet -rings in our ears, and the souls of Shakspeare, Milton, Raphael, and -Titian, are yet shedding into our souls divinest influences from the -very fountains of inspiration;--where are the pageants that, night after -night, during the best era of dramatic excellence, riveted the gaze of -thousands, and drew forth their acclamations?--gone, like rosy sunset -clouds;--fair painted vapours, lovely to the sight, but vanishing as -dreams, leaving no trace in heaven, no token of their ever having been -there. Where are the labours of Garrick, of Macklin, of Cooke, of -Kemble, of Mrs. Siddons?--chronicled in the dim memories of some few of -their surviving spectators; who speak of them with an enthusiasm which -we, who never saw them, fancy the offspring of that feeling which makes -the old look back to the time of their youth as the only days when the -sun knew how to shine. What have these great actors left, either to -delight the sense or elevate the soul, but barren names, unwedded to a -single lasting evidence of greatness! If, then, acting be alike without -the creating power and the enduring property, which are at once the -highest faculty of art, and its most beneficial purpose, what becomes of -it when ranked with efforts displaying both in the highest degree? To me -it seems no art,[79] but merely a highly rational, interesting, and -exciting amusement; and I think men may as well, much better, perhaps, -spend three hours in a theatre than in a billiard or bar-room,--and this -is the extent of my approbation and admiration of my art. Called on Mrs. -----, whom I like very much. Went to the riding-school to try a new -horse, which was ten hands high, all covered with shaggy angry-looking -hair, with a donkey's head, and cart-horse legs, with one of which he -peached. ---- came to see me mount. Dr. ----'s grey horse was standing -in the school with a man's saddle on. I persuaded ---- to put me on it, -and I then sent him away. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -When he was gone, rode for about an hour without any pommel, and found I -managed it famously. I slipped my foot out of the stirrup in order to -see if I could sit without both; but this proved rather too much, for I -presently slid very comfortably off. On my way home, met young ----, -with his head so completely in the clouds, that I had bowed to him, and -was driving on, when he just perceived me, and fell into a confusion of -bows, which he continued long after the coach had passed him. Found the -usual token of his having been at our house--a most beautiful nosegay; -roses, hyacinths, and myrtle. While I was arranging them, I heard a -tremendous shriek of laughter in the hall, which was followed by the -appearance of Mr. ----. After sitting with him some time, I went and sat -with Mrs. ----. The amiable Charge d'Affaires dined with us. After -dinner, went to see Mrs. ----; but she was too unwell to receive me. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Saw Dr. ----, who expressed manifold deplorings at my departure: gave -him the words of the Sisters. At half-past five, went to the theatre: -play, the Wonder. I acted only so-so: my father was a _leetle dans les -vignes du Seigneur_. When the play was over, the folk called for us, and -we went on: he made them a neat speech, and I nothing but a cross face -and three courtesies. How I do hate this! 'Tis quite enough to exhibit -myself to a gaping crowd, when my profession requires that I should do -so in a feigned semblance; but to come bobbing and genuflexioning on, as -me myself, to be clapped and shouted at, and say, "Thank ye kindly," is -odious. After the play, dressed, and off to Mrs. ----, with my father -and Mr. ----. On our way thither, the spring of our coach broke, and we -had to go halting along for half an hour, with a graceful inclination -towards the pavement on one side, which was very pleasant. There was -quite a brilliant party at Mrs. ----'s. Told Mr. ---- that I had thrown -his horse down. Saw and spoke to all Philadelphia. ---- was there, and -actually sitting still. Fell in love with Mr. ----'s youngest son, who -is a youth of some ten years old, and hovers round me with a plenitude -of silent admiration and astonishment that is most delightful. Miss -----, who is a very pretty creature (in fact, all American women are -pretty creatures, I never saw any prettier), sang Dalla Gioga e del -Piacer. She sings very well, but pronounces Italian very Americanly, -which is a pity. I don't know any thing so necessary to good singing as -a good Italian pronunciation, _except_ perhaps a good voice, and a good -school. They made me sing, and I sang them the galley song, after which -Miss ---- warbled again. They were surrounding me again, with a shower -of "pray do's," when perceiving D---- making towards me, with my boa on -her arm, I sat down and sang them, "Yes, aunt, I am ready to go," to -their infinite edification. I wonder if Mrs. ---- would object to this; -I should think not, as ---- is not here to catch it again. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Came home, and supped. I had eaten nothing since four o'clock, and was -famished; for I do not like stewed oysters and terrapins, which are the -refreshments invariably handed round at an American evening party. Did -not get to bed till two o'clock. How beautifully bright the heavens are -here! The sky has an earnest colour that is lovely and solemn to look -at; and the moon, instead of being "the maiden with white fire laden," -has a rich, mellow, golden light, than which nothing can be more -beautiful. The stars, too, are more vivid than in our skies, and there -is a variety of hues in their light which I never observed before,--some -reddish, some violet, and again others of the palest silver. - - -_Sunday, 30th._ - -After breakfast, Mr. ---- called, also ----, to know at what time we -would ride. I fixed at twelve, thereby calculating that we should escape -the people coming out from church. Went and sat a few minutes with Mrs. -----. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Spent my Sunday morning on my knees, indeed, but packing, not praying. -The horses did not come till half-past twelve; so that, instead of -avoiding, we encountered the pious multitude. I'm sure when we mounted -there were not less than a hundred and fifty beholders round the Mansion -House. Rode out to Laurel Hill. The cross road was muddy, so we took the -turnpike, which was clean and short, and would have been pleasant enough -but for my brute of a horse. Upon my word, these American horses are -most unsafe to ride. I never mount one but I recommend myself to the -care of Heaven, for I expect to have every bone in my body broken before -I dismount again. At Laurel Hill we lunched. While D---- put up her -hair, ---- and I ran down to the water side. The ice had melted from the -river, in whose still waters the shores, and trees, and bridge lay -mirrored with beautiful and fairy-like distinctness. The long icicles -under the rocky brow beneath which we stood had not melted away, though -the warm sun was shining brilliantly on them, and making the granite -slab on which we stood sparkle like a pavement of diamonds. I called to -the echo, and sang to it scales up, and scales down, and every manner of -musical discourse I could think of, during which interesting amusement I -as nearly as possible slipped from my footing into the river, which -caused both ---- and myself to gulp. We left our pleasant sunny stand at -last, to rejoin D---- and the lunch, and, having eaten and drunken, we -remounted and proceeded on to Manayunk, under the bright, warm, blessed -sunshine, which came down like a still shining shower upon the earth. -The beautiful little water-courses had all broken from their diamond -chains, and came dancing and singing down the hills, between the cedar -bushes, and the masses of grey granite, like merry children laughing as -they run. After crossing the bridge at Flat Rock, I took the van, riding -by myself much faster than my companions, whom I left to entertain each -other. Several times, as I looked down at the delicious fresh water, all -rosy with the rosy light of the clouds, and gushing round the masses of -rock that intercepted their channel, I longed to jump off my horse, and -go down among their shallow brilliant eddies. The whole land was mellow -with warm sunset, the sky soft, and bright, and golden, like a dream. I -stopped for a long time opposite the Wissihiccon creek. The stone -bridge, with its grey arch, mingled with the rough blocks of rock on -which it rested, the sheet of foaming water falling like a curtain of -gold over the dam among the dark stones below, on whose brown sides the -ruddy sunlight and glittering water fell like splinters of light. The -thick, bright, rich tufted cedars basking in the warm amber glow, the -picturesque mill, the smooth open field along whose side the river -waters, after receiving this child of the mountains into their bosom, -wound deep, and bright, and still, the whole radiant with the softest -light I ever beheld, formed a most enchanting and serene subject of -contemplation. Further on, I stopped again, to look at a most beautiful -mass of icicles, formed by some water falling from a large wooden -conduit which belonged to a mill. The long thick masses of silvery white -clung in downward pyramids together, and on the ground, great round -balls of purest transparent ice, like enormous crystal grapes, lay -clustered upon each other. I waited on a little sunny knoll above this -glittering fairy work, till my companions joined me, when, leaving D---- -to pursue the main road, ---- and I turned off, and explored a pretty -ravine, down which another mountain stream, half free wild water, half -shimmering diamond ice, sparkled in the sunset. We reached Philadelphia -at half-past four, and had again to canter down Chestnut Street just as -the folks were all coming from church, which caused no little staring, -and turning of heads. My father asked ---- to dine with us, but he -refused. Mr. ---- dined with us. After dinner, went in to pay my last -visit to my poor sick friend. I sat with her until summoned to see some -gentlemen in the drawing-room. It pained me to part from her; for -though she exerted herself bravely, she was very much overcome. I fear -she will miss me, poor thing; I had become very much attached to her. I -went in to bid Mrs. ---- good-by. ---- was not gone to bed; I took her -in my arms and kissed her, saying I should not see her for a long time -again. The tears came into her baby eyes, and she said very sadly, "God -bless you, Fanny." How curious a train of associations that word -produced in me! It brought ----, and Lord ----, and that beautiful -creature his child, before my very eyes. But her father had told little -Lady ---- to say that,--I am sure he did; now this little creature -blessed me out of her own heart. A child's blessing is a holy thing. -Came into the drawing-room. Found Dr. ----, young Mr. ----, and Mr. ---- -there. Presently, Mr. ---- came in, with Baron ----, a man with a thick -head, thick white hair, that stood out round it like a silver halo, and -gold ear-rings. I sang to them till past ten o'clock, and then came to -my own room, where I remained up packing and pottering until past two. - - -_Monday, 31st._ - -The river being yet open, thank Heaven, we arose at half-past four -o'clock. Dressed sans dawdling for once, and came down. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -D---- and I were bundled into a coach, and rumbled and tumbled over the -stones, through the blackness of darkness down to the steam-boat. ---- -was waiting for us, and convoyed us safely to the cabin, where I laid -myself down, and slept till breakfast-time. My father, Captain ----, Mr. -----, and Baron ----, sat themselves down most comfortably to breakfast, -leaving us entirely to the charge and care of ----, who fulfilled his -trust with infinite zeal. 'Tis curious; there was a man on board whom I -have now seen every time I have been going to or from New York to -Philadelphia, whose appearance was in itself very remarkable, and the -subsequent account I received of him perhaps increased the sort of -impression it made upon me. He was a man of about from thirty to -thirty-five, _I guess_, standing about five feet ten, with a great -appearance of strength and activity. His face was that of a foreigner, -the features were remarkably well cut, and the piercing black eyes, dark -hair, and brown complexion, gave a Spanish character to his -countenance. There was a sort of familiar would-be gentlemanly manner in -his deportment and address, and a species of slang gentility in his -carriage and conversation, that gave me a curiosity to ascertain what on -earth he could be. After breakfast, walked up and down deck with ----. ----- was on board. I am happy to hear he is thriving: I love all my -fellow-passengers; and when I see one of them, my heart warms towards -them, as to a bit of the dear old land left behind. After about an -hour's steaming, we disembarked to cross the narrow neck of land which -divides the Delaware from the Chesapeake. Here we got into a coach -holding some twelve of us, to be conveyed over the rail-road by one of -Stevenson's engines. Neither the road nor the conveyances are comparable -to those of the Liverpool and Manchester rail-way; and instead of those -luxurious roomy coaches, which form the merit of the Liverpool train, we -were squeezy and uncomfortable to a degree. The country along this slip -of land is flat and very uninteresting, clothed with threadbare young -woods, whose thin spare skeletons, without their leafy mantles, looked -excessively miserable. The distance from the Delaware to Frenchtown, on -the Elk, where we were again to take water, is about sixteen miles, -which we did in an hour. The first part of the road lies in Delaware, -the latter in Maryland. The Elk, which in this world of huge waters is -considered but a paltry ditch, but which in our country would be thought -a very decent-sized river, was, a few days ago, frozen up, thereby -putting a stop to the steam-boat travelling. But, fortunately for us, it -was open to-day, and presently we beheld the steamer coming puffing up -to take us from the pier. This boat--the Charles Carroll--is one of the -finest they have. 'Tis neither so swift nor so large, I think, as some -of the North river boats, but it is a beautiful vessel, roomy and -comfortable in its arrangements. I went below for a few minutes, but -found, as usual, the atmosphere of the cabin perfectly intolerable. The -ladies' cabin, in winter, on board one of these large steamers, is a -right curious sight. 'Tis generally crammed to suffocation with women, -_strewn_ in every direction. The greater number cuddle round a stove, -the heat of which alone would make the atmosphere unbreathable. Others -sit lazily in a species of rocking-chair,--which is found wherever -Americans sit down,--cradling themselves backwards and forwards, with a -lazy, lounging, sleepy air, that makes me long to make them get up and -walk. Others again manage, even upon fresh water, to be very sick. -There are generally a dozen young human beings, some naughty, sick, and -squalling, others happy, romping, and riotous; and what with the -vibratory motion of the rocking-chairs and their contents, the women's -shrill jabber, the children's shriller wailing and shouting, the heat -and closeness of the air, a ladies' cabin on board an American -steam-boat is one of the most overpowering things to sense and soul that -can well be imagined. There was a poor sick woman with three children, -among our company, two of which were noisy unruly boys, of from eight to -ten years old. One of them set up a howl as soon as he came on board, -which he prolonged, to our utter dismay, for upwards of half an hour -sans intermission, except to draw breath. I bore it as long as I could; -but threats, entreaties, and bribes having been resorted to in vain, by -all the women in the cabin, to silence him, I at length very composedly -took him up in my arms, and deposited him on his back in one of the -upper berths; whereupon his brother flew at his mother, kicking, -thumping, screaming, and yelling. The cabin was in an uproar; the little -wretch I held in my arms struggled like a young giant, and though I -succeeded in lodging him upon the upper shelf, presently slid down from -it like an eel. However, this effort had a salutary effect, for it -obtained silence,--the crying gave way to terror, which produced -silence, of which I availed myself to sleep till dinner-time. At dinner, ----- and Mr. ---- took charge of D---- and me, who, seeing that we were -to get no dinner till six o'clock, thought fit to eat some lunch. The -strange dark man was sitting opposite us, and discoursing away to his -neighbours in a strain and tone in which shrewdness and swagger, and -vulgarity and a sort of braggart gallantry, were curiously jumbled. From -his conversation, it was evident that he was a seafaring man. He spoke -of having been a midshipman on board an American frigate. The question -they were debating was that of superstitious prejudice, involving belief -in lucky and unlucky days, witches, ghosts, etc. The stranger professed -perfect faith in all, and added sundry experiences of his own, at the -same time observing, that with regard to sailors, the strong prejudice -they have against sailing on certain days often creates the very ill -luck they apprehend; for if any danger should occur, 'tis all attributed -to evil influences against which they have no power, and they are at -once deprived of half their energy in labour, and half their courage in -peril. When dinner was over, I pointed out this strange man to my -father, asking him if he had any idea who he was. "I am told," was his -reply, "that he is but just returned from New York, where he has been -tried for piracy." This accounted for every thing,--dare-devil look and -language, seafaring adventures, and superstitious creed. It is a -pleasant mode of travelling that throws one into contact with such -company. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Touching pirates, Baltimore, I was told (I know not how truly) is famous -for them. They have small schooners there of a particularly light build, -and raking masts, which are the prettiest craft in the world to look at, -and the swiftest that sail sea. The Baltimore clippers are proverbial -for their elegance and fleetness: they are like greyhounds on the water. -These, I was told, were frequently owned by gentlemen of rather an -ambiguous character, something between pirate, smuggler, and wrecker, -perhaps a judicious compound of all three. Their trade is chiefly, I -believe, with and about the West India islands. I looked at my -Spanish-faced friend with redoubled curiosity: he was the very man for a -pirate. We reached Baltimore at about half-past four. The Chesapeake -bay, like the Delaware river, appeared to me admirable only as an -immense sheet of water. At some parts that we passed, it was six, at -others, ten, at others, thirteen miles across. The shores were flat and -uninteresting on one side, but on the other occasionally very -picturesque and beautiful, rising in red-looking cliffs from the water's -edge, and crowned with beautiful green tufts of wood--cedar, I suppose, -for nothing else is green at this time. The curvings of the shore, too, -are very pretty; but, owing to the enormous width of the water, my -imperfect vision could hardly discern the peculiar features of the land. -The day was more lovely than a fine day in early September, in -England,--bright, soft and sunny, with the blue in the sky of the -delicate colour one sees in the Sevres porcelain. As we entered the -Patapsco, and neared Baltimore, North Point and Fort M'Henry were -pointed out to me. My spirits always sink when I come to a strange -place; and as we came along the wharf sides, under the red dingy-looking -warehouses, between which the water ran in narrow dark-looking canals, I -felt terribly gloomy. We drove up to Barnham's, the best house in the -town; and, having found out where to lay my head, I had my fill of -crying.[80] After dinner, went and lay down; slept profoundly till nine -o'clock. On my return to the drawing-room, found ---- there, and Mr. -----, the man who owns the Front Street theatre, but who it seems is -only just out of gaol, and has neither actors nor scenes to get up a -play withal. While he was here, came missives from the proprietors of -the Holliday Street theatre, to inform my father that it was lighted up, -and requesting him to come and look at it. This was awkward rather. When -Mr. ---- was gone, I came to my room, where I remained without a fire, -cold without and disconsolate within, till past one o'clock. I did not -know it was New-Year's eve; and so the waters carried me over this other -dam without my looking back at what was past, or forward at what is to -come: and why should I?--surely "the thing that hath been, it is that -which shall be; and that which is done, is that which shall be done; and -there is no new thing under the sun:" sorrow and joy, hoping and -fearing, pain and pleasure, laughing and weeping, striving and -yielding,--they will all come again and again, and all things will be -the same, till all things cease. - - -_Tuesday, January, 1st_, } - _New-Year's Day_, } 1833. - -There it lies in its cradle! its pure forehead yet unstained by sin, -unfurrowed by care; and not an hour shall have passed without the traces -of both becoming visible. And where is the mother gone? where is the -fulfilled year?--Gone sorrowing to join the crowd of ancestors, who -witness each against me for the unthrift waste I have made of the rich -legacies they one by one have bestowed on me. Oh, new-born year! ere -half thy hours are spent, how often will my weary spirit have wished -them fleeter wings than even those they wear! What secrets are there -folded in thy breast,--what undreamt-of chances,--what strange -befallings,--what unforeseen sorrows,--what unexpected joys! Perhaps, -in the mysterious accomplishments with which thou art laden, my death -may be numbered!--perhaps, ere thy course be duly run, the death of Time -may be decreed! Oh! this life, and all things in it, remind me of the -thin veils of spiders' webs which divided Desire from his aim, and -which, though light and transparent, were so numerous, that to lift them -all away was hopeless. After breakfast, began writing journal. 'Twas not -until dating it that I discovered it was New-year's day. When I did so, -and looked at my strange surroundings, at the gloomy wintry sky, and -thought of the heathenish disregard with which I was passing over, in -this far land, the season of home-gathering and congregating of kin in -my own country, I could not refrain from crying bitterly. In spite of -the pouring rain, and Mr. ----'s hints to keep us away, my father, who -wished to ascertain the truth of the reports with regard to the state of -his theatre, set forward thither with me. We found a very large handsome -house, larger, I think, than the Park, but dirty, dilapidated, and -looking as if there had been eleven executions in it that morning. No -actors, scarcely any scenes,--in short, such a state of things as -rendered it totally impossible for us to think of acting there. Came -home; sat diligently crying the whole morning. The afternoon cleared up, -and became soft and sunny. My father insisted on my taking a walk; so I -bonneted and set out with him. What I saw of the town appeared to me -extremely like the outskirts of Birmingham or Manchester. Bright-red -brick houses, in rows of three and five, with interesting gaps of -gravel-pits, patches of meadow, and open spaces between, which give it -an untidy straggling appearance. They are building in every direction, -however, and in less than two years, these little pauses being filled -up, Baltimore will be a very considerable place; for it covers, in its -present state, a large extent of ground, and contains a vast population. -Immediately after dinner, our host made his entree with a piano-forte. I -had suggested to Mr. ---- that I should be glad of one; and here it -came. I had asked him to return in the evening, and was glad of the -piano, for it helps the time away. At six o'clock, the managers of the -Holliday Street theatre made their appearance; and my father stating -that Mr. ---- was literally unable to fulfil his engagement with us, -entered into arrangements with them, during which I sat up at a -tremendously high window, looking at the beautiful serious skies, and -radiant moon, and listening to a tolerable band playing sundry of -Rossini's airs. When these men had departed, ---- came in. I sang and -made him sing till tea-time. After that, he entertained us with a very -long, but not very clear, account of the various processes of making, -polishing, etc. steel, as practised in his manufactory. His account of -their hard dealings with the poorer manufacturers was dreadful; and he -himself spoke with horror of it, saying, "Oh, they are so miserably -ground, poor wretches, they cannot be said to live,--they barely exist." -When I remonstrated with him upon the wickedness of such proceedings, he -replied, "We are compelled to do it in self-defence: if we did not use -the same means as other manufacturers, we should presently be -undersold." And this is the game playing all over England at this -moment, in every department of her commerce and manufacture,--this cruel -oppression of the poor, this forcing them by a league against them, as -it were, to toil in bitterness for their scanty daily bread, while those -who thus inhumanly depreciate their labour, and wring their hard -earnings from their starving grasp, grow wealthy on their plunder. Are -not these the things for which God has said he will avenge? Is his -abomination of the false balance, and the stinted measure, and the -unjust reckoning, less than in the days when he said he would visit the -oppressor of the poor, and plead the cause of the widow and fatherless? -Are not these the things that make a nation rotten at core, and ripe for -decay? Are not these the things for which retribution is laid up, and -fourfold restitution will be demanded?--'Tis awful to think of. From -this the conversation grew to the means of obtaining interest upon money -in this country, which the gentlemen discussed together for a length of -time. I listened to them with many sad thoughts. How intent they seemed -in their discourse, how much they appeared to value every slightest -advantage of place or circumstance which enabled them to draw a greater -profit from their capital; how eagerly, how earnestly, they seemed -absorbed in these calculations. I do not know when I have been so -forcibly struck with the worthlessness of money, and the strange -delusion under which all men seem to be labouring, giving up their -lives, as they do, to the hunting of wealth. Are these the cares that -should engross the faculties of immortal souls, and rational thinking -creatures? That we must live, I know, and that money is necessary to -live, I know; but that our glorious capacities of soul, mind, and body, -the fitting exercise of which alone, in itself, is happiness, should -thus be chained down to the altar horns of Mammon, is what I never will -believe wise, right, or fitting. I at length spoke, for my heart was -burning within me, and burst into an eloquent lamentation on the folly -and misery of which the world was guilty in following this base worship -as it does. But when I said that I was convinced happiness might and did -exist most blessedly upon half the means which men spent their lives in -scraping together, my father laughed, and said I was the last person in -the world who could live on little, or be content with the mediocrity I -vaunted. I looked at my satin gown, and held my tongue, but still I was -not convinced. We returned to our music till ten o'clock, when they had -some supper, after which they drank a happy new year to England:--poor -old England, God bless it! At about twelve o'clock, ---- departed. Sat -up a long time at the window, listening to some serenading, which, in -the moonlight, sounded pleasantly enough.[81] - - -_Sunday, 6th._ - -At about half-past ten, Mr. ---- called for us, and we walked up to the -cathedral, which is a large unfinished stone building, standing on the -brow of a hill, which is to be the fashionable quarter of the town, and -where there are already some very nice-looking houses. The interior of -the church is large and handsome, and has more the look of a church than -any thing I have been inside of in this country yet. 'Tis full eight -years since I was in a Catholic church; and the sensation with which I -approached the high altar, with its golden crucifix, its marble -entablatures, and its glimmering starry lights, savoured fully as much -of sadness as devotion. I have not been in a Catholic place of worship -since I was at school. How well I remember the beautiful music of the -military mass, the pageants and processions of the feast days at high -mass, and the evening service, not vespers, but the Salut.[82] They sang -that exquisitely mournful and beautiful _Et incarnatus est_, of -Haydn's, which made my blood all run backwards. One thing disgusted me -dreadfully, though the priests who were officiating never passed or -approached the altar without bending the knee to it, they kept spitting -all over the carpet that surrounded and covered the steps to it, -interrupting themselves in the middle of the service to do so, without -the slightest hesitation. We had a very indifferent sermon: the service -was of course in Latin. When it was over, Mr. ---- insisted on showing -me some paintings which hung on either side the grand entrance. These -were a couple of pictures by Paulin Guerin; the one representing the -descent from the cross, the other, the burying of the dead, by St. -Charles, in the Holy Land. I do not understand much about bad pictures, -but I know good ones when I see them; and I think these were not such. -There was no beauty of imagination or poetical conception whatever in -them, and there appeared to me to be manifold glaring faults in the -execution. I could have sworn to their being French pictures. Was -introduced to several people, coming out of church. A little way beyond -the cathedral stands Washington's monument,--a _neat and appropriate_ -pillar,--which, together with a smaller one erected at the head of our -street, to the memory of the North Point heroes, has given Baltimore the -appellation of the monumental city, which never could have befallen it -in any other country under heaven but this. At eight o'clock, we went to -Mrs. ----'s. They are all in deep mourning, and the circle was very -small. They are most agreeable pleasant people, with a peculiar -gentleness of manner, like very high breeding, which I have often -observed in Catholics of the better orders. Their conversation appeared -to me totally divested of the disagreeable accent which seems almost -universal in this country. Mrs. ---- talked to me about my aunt -Whitelock, and what a charming actress she was, and what an enchanting -thrilling voice she had. I spent a delightful evening. Before we went -away, Mr. ---- showed us a picture of Lady ----, by Lawrence. It looked -quite refreshing, with its lovely dark curls unfrizzed, and the form of -the neck and arms undisguised by the hideousness of modern fashions. Saw -a very good likeness, too, of the Duke of ----. 'Twas very like him, -though many years younger. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -By the by, somebody said that ---- had turned Roman Catholic, and very -devout. Some of the Marys and Magdalens of the old Italian painters are -very converting pictures, with their tearful melancholy eyes, and -golden, glorious, billowy hair. Mrs. ---- amused me very much by her -account of the slaves on their estates, whom, she said, she found the -best and most faithful servants in the world. Being born upon the land, -there exists among them something of the old spirit of clanship, and -"our house," "our family," are the terms by which they designate their -owners. In the south, there are no servants but blacks; for the greater -proportion of domestics being slaves, all species of servitude whatever -is looked upon as a degradation; and the slaves themselves entertain the -very highest contempt for white servants, whom they designate as "poor -white trash." - - -_Monday, 7th._ - -Young ---- called, and stayed about an hour with us. At half-past five, -took coffee, and off to the theatre. The play was Romeo and Juliet; the -house was extremely full: they are a delightful audience. My Romeo had -gotten on a pair of trunk breeches, that looked as if he had borrowed -them from some worthy Dutchman of a hundred years ago. Had he worn them -in New York, I could have understood it as a compliment to the ancestry -of that good city; but here, to adopt such a costume in Romeo, was -really perfectly unaccountable. They were of a most unhappy choice of -colours, too,--dull, heavy-looking blue cloth, and offensive crimson -satin, all be-puckered, and be-plaited, and be-puffed, till the young -man looked like a magical figure growing out of a monstrous strange -coloured-melon, beneath which descended his unfortunate legs, thrust -into a pair of red slippers, for all the world like Grimaldi's legs _en -costume_ for clown. The play went off pretty smoothly, except that they -broke one man's collar-bone, and nearly dislocated a woman's shoulder by -flinging the scenery about. My bed was not made in time, and when the -scene drew, half a dozen carpenters in patched trowsers and tattered -shirt-sleeves were discovered smoothing down my pillows, and adjusting -my draperies. The last scene is too good not to be given verbatim:-- - - - ROMEO. Rise, rise, my Juliet, - And from this cave of death, this house of horror, - Quick let me snatch thee to thy Romeo's arms. - - -Here he pounced upon me, plucked me up in his arms like an uncomfortable -bundle, and staggered down the stage with me. - - - JULIET. (_aside._) Oh, you've got me up horridly!--that'll never - do; let me down, pray let me down. - - ROMEO. There, breathe a vital spirit on thy lips, - And call thee back, my soul, to life and love! - - JULIET. (_aside._) Pray put me down; you'll certainly throw me down - if you don't set me on the ground directly. - - -In the midst of "cruel cursed fate," his dagger fell out of his dress; -I, embracing him tenderly, crammed it back again, because I knew I -should want it at the end. - - - ROMEO. Tear not our heart-strings thus! They crack! they - break!--Juliet! Juliet! (_dies._) - - JULIET. (_to corpse._) Am I smothering you? - - CORPSE. (_to Juliet._) Not at all; could you be so kind, do you - think, as to put my wig on again for me?--it has fallen off. - - JULIET. (_to corpse._) I'm afraid I can't, but I'll throw my - muslin veil over it. You've broken the phial, haven't you? - - (_Corpse nodded._) - - JULIET. (_to corpse._) Where's your dagger? - - CORPSE. (_to Juliet._) 'Pon my soul, I don't know. - - -_Sunday, 13th._ - -By half-past ten we were packed in what in this country is termed an -_exclusive extra_, _i. e._ a stage-coach to ourselves, and progressing -towards Washington. The coach was comfortable enough, and the country, -for the first twelve or fifteen miles, owing to the abominable account I -had heard of it from every body, disappointed me rather agreeably. It -was by no means so dreary or desolate as I had been led to expect. There -was considerable variety in its outline, and the quantity of cedar -thickets scattered over it took away from the comfortless threadbare -look of the wintry woods. Threadbare, indeed, the trees can scarce be -called; for the leaves of the black oak, instead of falling as they -fade, remain upon the branches, and give the trees more the effect of -being lightning-struck, or accidentally blasted, than withered by the -fair course of the seasons. I think the effect is more disagreeable than -that of absolutely bare leafless boughs. When near, the trees look -singularly deplorable and untidy, although at the distance, the -red-brown of the faded oaks mingling with the bright, vivid, green -cedars, and here and there a silver-barked buttonwood tree raising its -white delicate branches from among them, produce a very agreeable and -harmonious blending to the eye. The soil, the banks by the road-side, -and broken ridges of ravines, and water-courses, attracted my attention -by the variety and vividness of their colours; the brightest red and -yellow, and then again pale green, and rich warm gravel-colour. I wished -I had been a geologist. How much pleasure of reflection and -contemplation is lost to the ignorant, whose outward sense wanders over -the objects that surround it, deriving from them but half the delight -that they give the wise and well-informed; even fancy is at fault, for -fancy itself scarce devises images more strange, and beautiful, and -wonderful, than the reality of things presents to those who understand -their properties and natures. The waters were all fast frozen up, and -one or two little pools, all curdled with ice, and locked up in deep -gravelly basins, looked like onyx stones set in gold. As for the road, -we had been assured it was exceedingly good; but mercy on us! I can't -think of it without aching. Here we went up, up, up, and there we went -down, down, down,--now, I was in my father's lap, and now I was half out -of window. The utter impossibility of holding one's self in any one -position for two minutes is absolutely ridiculous. Sometimes we laughed, -and at other times we groaned, at our helpless and hopeless condition; -but at last we arrived, with no bones broken, at about three o'clock, at -the capital and seat of government of the United States.[83] Upon the -height immediately above the city is situated the Capitol, a very -handsome building, of which the Americans are not a little proud; but it -seems placed there by mistake, so little do the miserable untidy hovels -above, and the scattered unfinished red-brick town below, accord with -its patrician marble and high-sounding title. We drove to Gadsby's, -which is an inn like a little town, with more wooden galleries, flights -of steps, passages, door-ways, exits, and entrances, than any building I -ever saw: it reminded me of the house in Tieck's Love-charm. We had not -been arrived a quarter of an hour, when in walked Mr. ---- and Captain -----, and presently Mr. ----. They sat for some time discussing, -laughing, quizzing, and being funny, and then departed. Captain ---- was -telling us a story about a man somewhere up in the lost lands, who was -called Philemon, and whose three sons were paganed (christened, I -suppose, one can't say,) Romulus, Remus, and Tiberius. I thought this -was too good to be true; and D---- and I, laughing over it at dinner, -agreed that we wished any thing of the sort had happened to us. "Some -bread, waiter: what is your name?" said I to the black who was waiting -upon us. "Horatius!" was the reply; which sent me and D---- into fits. - - -_Monday, 14th._ - -When I came in to breakfast, found Mr. ----, whom I like mainly. While -he was here, Dr. ---- and ---- came in. I gave the latter a most -tremendous grasp of the hand: it was like seeing a bit of England to see -him. He said to me, "Oh, how strange it is to see you here;" which -caused my eyes to fill with tears, for, Heaven knows, it feels strange -enough. They had hardly been seated two minutes, when in rushed a boy to -call us to rehearsal. I was as vexed as might be. They all departed; ----- faithfully promising to come again, and have a long talk about the -old country: we then set forth to rehearsal. The theatre is the tiniest -little box that ever was seen,--not much bigger, I verily think, than -the baby's play-house at Versailles. When I came to perceive who the -company were, and that sundry of our Baltimore comrades were come on -hither, I begged to be excused from rehearsing, as they had all done -their parts but a few days before with me. At about two o'clock, Mr. ----- came to take us to the Capitol. Mr. ---- was in the drawing-room. -He had just seen the President; and it seems, that far from coming to -any accommodation with the South Carolinians, there is an immediate -probability of their coming to blows. They say, the old General is -longing for a fight; and, most assuredly, to fight would be better, in -this instance, than to give in; for to yield would be virtually to admit -the right of every individual state to dictate to the whole government. -We walked up to the Capitol: the day was most beautifully bright and -sunny, and the mass of white building, with its terraces and columns, -stood out in fine relief against the cloudless blue sky. We went first -into the senate, or upper house, because Webster was speaking, whom I -especially wished to hear. The room itself is neither large nor lofty; -the senators sit in two semi-circular rows, turned towards the -President, in comfortable arm-chairs. On the same ground, and literally -sitting among the senators, were a whole regiment of ladies, whispering, -talking, laughing, and fidgeting. A gallery, level with the floor, and -only divided by a low partition from the main room, ran round the -apartment: this, too, was filled with pink, and blue, and yellow -bonnets; and every now and then, while the business of the house was -going on, and Webster speaking, a tremendous bustle, and waving of -feathers, and rustling of silks, would be heard, and in came streaming a -reinforcement of political beauties, and then would commence a jumping -up, a sitting down, a squeezing through, and a how-d'-ye-doing, and a -shaking of hands. The senators would turn round; even Webster would -hesitate, as if bothered by the row, and, in short, the whole thing was -more irregular, and unbusiness-like, than any one could have -imagined.[84] Webster's face is very remarkable, particularly the -forehead and eyes. The former projects singularly, absolutely -overhanging the latter, which have a very melancholy, and occasionally -rather wild, expression. The subject upon which he was speaking was not -one of particular interest,--an estimate of the amount of French -spoliations, by cruizers and privateers, upon the American commerce. The -heat of the room was intolerable; and after sitting till I was nearly -suffocated, we adjourned to the House of Representatives. On our way -thither, we crossed a very beautiful circular vestibule, which holds the -centre of the building. It was adorned with sundry memorable passages in -American history, done into pictures by Colonel Trumbull. In the House -of Representatives we were told we should hear nothing of interest, so -turned off, under Mr. ----'s escort, to the Library, which is a -comfortable well-sized room, where we looked over Audubon's Ornithology, -a beautiful work, and saw a man sitting, with his feet upon the table, -reading, which is an American fashion. Met half the New York world -there. After we had stayed there some time, we went into the House of -Representatives. The room itself is lofty and large, and very handsome, -but extremely ill-constructed for the voice, which is completely lost -among the columns, and only reaches the gallery, where listeners are -admitted, in indistinct and very unedifying murmurs. The members not -unfrequently sit with their feet upon their desks. We walked out upon -the terrace, and looked at the view of the Potomac, and the town, which, -in spite of the enlivening effect of an almost summer's sky, looked -dreary and desolate in the extreme. We then returned home. At half-past -five, we went to the theatre. We were a long time before we could -discover, among the intricate dark little passages, our own private -entrance, and were as nearly as possible being carried into the pit by a -sudden rush of spectators making their way thither: I wish we had been; -I think I should like to have seen myself very much. The theatre is -absolutely like a doll's play-house: it was completely crammed with -people. I played ill; I cannot act tragedy within half a yard of the -people in the boxes. By the by, a theatre may very easily be too small -for tragedies which is admirably adapted to comedies. In the latter -species of dramatic representations, the incidents, characters, manners, -and dresses, are, for the most part, modern,--such as we meet with, or -can easily imagine, in our own drawing-rooms, and among our own society. -There is little if any exaggeration of colouring necessary, and no great -exertion of fancy needful either in the actor or audience in executing -and witnessing such a performance. On the contrary, comedy,--high -comedy,--generally embodying the manners, tone, and spirit of the higher -classes of society, the smaller the space, consistent with ease and -grace of carriage, in which such personifications take place, the less -danger there is of the actor's departing from that natural, quiet, and -refined deportment and delivery, which are, in the present day, the -general characteristics of polished society. 'Tis otherwise with tragic -representations. They are unnatural, not positively, but comparatively -unnatural; the incidents are, for the most part, strange, startling, -unusual; and though they always must be within possibility, in order to -excite the sympathies of beholders,--though some of them may even be -historical facts,--yet they are, for the most part, events which come -within the probabilities of few of us, and this renders necessary a -degree of excitement and elevation in the mind of the spectator, foreign -to, and at variance with, the critical spirit of prosaic reality. Again, -the scene of a comedy is generally a drawing-room; and the smaller the -stage, the greater is the possibility of rendering it absolutely like -what we all have seen, and are daily in the habit of seeing; but to -represent groves and mountains, or lakes, or the dwellings of the kings -of the earth, satisfactorily to the spectator's mind, there must be a -certain distance observed, from which the fancy may take its stand for -the best perception of what is intended. Whereas, in closer contact with -such scenes, not only does their immediate proximity convey an -unpleasing consciousness of the unreality of the whole, but the near and -absolute detail of paint, canvass, and gilding, is obtruded in a manner -that destroys all illusion, and, by disturbing the effect of the whole -upon the spectator, necessarily weakens that part which depends solely -upon the actor. The same thing applies to dress. Foil-stone, paste, and -coloured glass, by French ingenuity have been manufactured into toys, -which, with the help of distance, may be admitted as representing the -splendours of Eastern costume, or even the glittering trappings of those -gaudy little superhumans, the fairies. But nearness utterly dissolves -the spell, and these substitutes for magnificence become palpable -impositions, and very often most ludicrous ones. I have often been -accused of studying my attitudes; but the truth is, that most things -that are presented to my imagination, instead of being mere -abstractions, immediately assume form and colour, and become pictures; -these I constantly execute on the stage as I had previously seen them in -my fancy: but as few pictures as large as life admit of being seen to -best effect immediately close to the spectator, so the whole effect -produced by a graceful attitude, fine colours, or skilful grouping on -the stage, is considerably diminished when the space is restricted, and -the audience brought too near the performers. So much for little -theatres. ---- came in after the play. He told us that as he was coming -out of the theatre, a Kentuckian accosted him with, "Well, what do you -think of that 'ere _gal_?"--"Oh," hesitatingly replied ----, "I don't -quite know."--"Well," retorted the questioner, "any how, I guess she's -o' some account!" - - -_Tuesday, 15th._ - -At eleven o'clock, Mr. ---- called. Went with him to see the original of -the Declaration of Independence, also a few medals, for the most part -modern ones, and neither of much beauty or curiosity. Afterwards went to -the War-Office, where we saw sundry Indian properties,--bows and arrows, -canoes, smoking-pipes, and, what interested me much more, the pictures -of a great many savage chiefs, and one or two Indian women. The latter -were rather pretty: the men were not any of them handsome; scorn round -the mouth, and cunning in the eyes, seemed to be the general -characteristic of all their faces. There was a portrait of Red Jacket, -which gave me a most unpoetical low-life impression of that great -palaverer. The names of many of them delighted me,--as, _the Ever-awake; -the Man that stands and strikes; the North Wind_. One of the women's -names amused me a great deal,--_the Woman that spoke first_; which title -occasioned infinite surmise among us as to the occasion on which she -earned it. After we had done seeing what was to be seen, we went on to -the President's house, which is a comfortless handsome-looking building, -with a withered grass-plot enclosed in wooden palings in front, and a -desolate reach of uncultivated ground down to the river behind. Mr. ---- -gave us a most entertaining account of the levees, or rather public -days, at the President's house. Every human being has a right to present -himself there; the consequence is, that great numbers of the very -commonest sort of people used to rush in, and follow about the servants -who carried refreshments, seizing upon whatever they could get, and -staring and pushing about, to the infinite discomfiture of the more -respectable and better-behaved part of the assembly. Indeed, the -nuisance became so great, that they discontinued the eatables, and in -great measure got rid of the crowd. Mr. ---- assured me that on one of -these occasions, two _ladies_ had themselves lifted up and seated on the -chimney-piece, in order to have a better view of the select -congregation beneath them. Mr. ---- left us to go to the Capitol, and -we came home. ----, Mr. ----, and Captain ---- called. We sat discussing -names; which, in this country, are certainly more ambitious than in any -other in the world.[85] Besides Captain ----'s classical family, Mr. ----- assured us that he knew of a man whose name was _Return Jonathan -Meigs_; and ---- swore to one in New York called _Alonzo Leontes -Agamemnon Beaugardus_. I have myself seen a _Harmanus Boggs_, _Aquila -Jones_, and _Alpheus Brett_; but I have not been favoured with an -acquaintance with any such names as they quoted. ---- appears to me -altered since I saw him in England. He was always silent, and quiet, and -gentle; but there was an air of complacency and contented cheerfulness -about him, which I think he has very much lost: he looks sad and -careworn. I was sorry to see it. After dinner, sat writing journal. Mr. ----- came in and sat some time with us. He is very clever and agreeable, -and I like him greatly. - - -_Wednesday, 16th._ - -After breakfast, went to rehearsal. At half past twelve, Mr. ---- came -to ride with me. The horse he had gotten for me was base; but never -mind, the day was exquisitely mild and bright,--the sort of early -spring-feeling day, when in England the bright gold and pale delicate -violet of the crocus buds begin to break the rich dark mould, and the -fragrant gummy leaves of the lilac bushes open their soft brown folds. -We had a very pleasant ride through some pretty woodlands on the -opposite side of the river. At half-past five, went to the theatre. The -play was the Hunchback: the house was crowded. In the last scene, Master -Walter upbraided me thus:-- - - - The engineer - Who lays the last stone of his sea-built tower, - And, smiling at it, bids the winds and waves - To roar and whistle now--but in a night - Beholds the tempest sporting in its place, - May look _agash_ as I did. - - -Also in the exclamation,-- - - - Fathers, make straws your children: nature's nothing, - Blood nothing: once in other veins it flows, - It no more _yawneth_ for the parent flood - Than doth the stream that from the stream disparts. - - -Mr. ---- and ---- came in after the play. We had a discussion as to how -far real feeling enters into our scenic performances. 'Tis hard to say: -the general question it would be impossible to answer, for acting is -altogether a monstrous anomaly. John Kemble and Mrs. Siddons were always -in earnest in what they were about; Miss O'Neill used to cry bitterly in -all her tragedy parts; whilst Garrick could be making faces and playing -tricks in the middle of his finest points, and Kean would talk gibberish -while the people were in an uproar of applause at his. In my own -individual instance, I know that sometimes I could turn every word I am -saying into burlesque (_never_ Shakspeare, by the by), and at others my -heart aches, and I cry real, bitter, warm tears, as earnestly as if I -was in earnest. - - -_Thursday, 17th._ - -Sat writing journal till twelve o'clock, when we went to Mr. ----'s. -Took him up, and thence proceeded to the Presidency to be presented in -due form. His Excellency Andrew Jackson is very tall and thin, but erect -and dignified in his carriage--a good specimen of a fine old -well-battered soldier. His hair is very thick and grey: his manners are -perfectly simple and quiet, therefore very good; so are those of his -niece, Mrs. ----, who is a very pretty person, and lady of the house, -Mrs. Jackson having been dead some time. He talked about South Carolina, -and entered his protest against scribbling ladies, assuring us that the -whole of the present southern disturbances had their origin in no larger -a source than the nib of the pen of a lady. Truly, if this be true, the -lady must have scribbled to some purpose. We sat a little more than a -quarter of an hour; Mr. ---- was calling at the same time.[86] We -afterwards adjourned to Mr. ----'s house. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Appointed Mr. ---- to come down directly and ride with me. Drove with my -father and Mr. ---- to leave cards on ----, and then walked home. The -day was bright and fine, but very cold. Habited, and at about one -o'clock Mr. ---- called for me. On going to the door, I found him and -his horse, and a strange, tall, grey horse for me, and a young gentleman -of the name of ----, to whom I understood it belonged, and whom Mr. ---- -introduced to me as very anxious to join my party. I was a little -startled at this, as I did not quite think Mr. ---- ought to have -brought any body to ride with me without my leave. However, as I was -riding his horse, I was just as well pleased that he was by, for I -don't like having the responsibility of such valuable property as a -private gentleman's horse to take care of. I told him this, alleging it -as a reason for my preferring to ride an indifferent hack horse, about -which I had no such anxiety. He replied that I need have none about his. -I told him laughingly that I would give him two dollars for the hire of -it, and then I should feel quite happy; all which nonsense passed as -nonsense should, without a comment. He is a son of ----: I thought him -tolerably pleasant and well informed. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I would have a man who lived in the wretchedest corner of the earth -think his own country the first of countries; for 'tis noble and -natural, one of the most respectable instincts in the human heart. We -rode till half-past three. The horse I was upon was, Mr. ---- assured -me, an English one, but he had been long enough in this world to learn -racking, and forget every other more christian pace; he tired me -dreadfully. After dinner, wrote journal till time to go to the theatre. -The play was the School for Scandal; in the fourth act of which Joseph -Surface assured me that _I was a plethora_!!!--Mr. ---- came in and -supped with us after the play. He gave us a very interesting account of -a school that had been attempted to be formed in Massachusetts, for the -purpose of educating young men of the savage tribes, who were willing to -become Christians, and receive instruction. It was obliged, however, to -be given up, in consequence of several of them having fallen in love -with and married American girls, whom they took away into the woods, -many of them after they were there returning to their savage ways of -living, which must have placed their wretched Christian wives in a -horrible situation. - - -_Friday, 18th._ - -At eleven, Mr. ---- called to take D---- and myself to the War-Office: I -wanted her to see the Indian spoils there. On our way thither, he read -us some very pretty verses which he had written upon the subject of the -"woman who spoke first." When we had seen what we wanted to see, we -returned home, and I began to habit. While doing so, received a most -comical Yankee note, signed by Mr. ----, but written, I am sure, by -Captain ----, to apprize me that the former was unwell, but that he, -Captain ----, would accompany me on horseback, if I pleased. The note -was exquisite. I finished dressing, and then we set off. I charged -Captain ---- with the note, and he pleaded guilty,--the thing was -evident. While we were riding, Captain ---- told me sundry most -exquisite native morceaux, and one thing that half-killed me with -laughing. Mr. ----'s negro servant and Mr. ----'s conversing together -about me, one asked the other if he had seen me yet at the theatre, to -which Mr. ----'s man replied, "No, sir; I have had the pleasure of -seeing Miss Kemble in private society:"--he brings my horse down every -morning for me! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Perhaps, after all, life is worth no more than a laugh, and all its -strange mysteries of sin and suffering, its summer dreams of excellence -innate and to be acquired, its fond yearning affections, its deep -passions, its high and glorious tendings,--all but jests to make the -worldly-wise smile, and the believers in them despair. God keep me from -such thoughts!--they are dreadful! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After dinner, wrote journal. At half-past five, went to the theatre: the -play was the Hunchback,--the house was very good. I wonder if any body -on earth can form the slightest idea of the interior of this wretched -little theatre; 'tis the smallest I ever was in. The proprietors are -poor, the actors poorer; and the grotesque mixture of misery, vulgarity, -stage-finery, and real raggedness, is beyond every thing strange, and -sad, and revolting,--it reminds me constantly of some of Hogarth's -pictures, and passages in Goethe's Wilhelm Meister. After the play, came -home and supped. By the by, just as I had done breakfast this morning, -Judge ---- called, who is the most exquisite original I have met with -even in this land of their abundance. He gave me a long scolding for -getting up so late, and assured me that I meant to settle in this -country, at the same time drawing an enchanting picture of rural -happiness to the west,--a cottage by a rivulet, with two cows, and just -enough to starve upon!--I think I see myself there. This sentimental -prophecy was prefaced by a remark that he knew I was very romantic, and -interrupted every two minutes by a dexterous expectoral interjection, -which caused me nearly to jump off my chair with dismay. - - -_Saturday, 19th._ - -_Giorno d'orrore!_--but I won't anticipate. They have settled to act -Much Ado about Nothing, instead of the Inconstant. I have no clothes for -Beatrice,--but that don't matter. After breakfast, went to rehearsal, -and then walked with my father to see a very pretty model of what is to -be the town-hall. It never will be, for the corporation are as poor as -_Job's kittens_ (Americanism--communicated by Captain ----), and the -city of Washington itself is only kept alive by Congress. Talking of the -city of Washington,--'tis the strangest thing by way of a town that can -be fancied. It is laid out to cover, I should think, some ten miles -square, but the houses are here, there, and no where: the streets, -conventionally not properly so called, are roads, crooked or straight, -where buildings are _intended_ to be. Every now and then an interesting -gap of a quarter of a mile occurs between those houses that _are_ built: -in the midst of the town, you can't help fancying you are in the -country; and between wooden palings, with nothing to be seen on either -side but cedar bushes and sand, you are informed you are in the midst of -the town. The Elysian Fields is a broken patch of moorland, sand, and -gravel: the Jardin des Plantes is a nursery-ground full of slips of -shrubs a foot and a half high; the Tiber, alias Goose Creek, is an -unhappy-looking ditch;--and Washington altogether struck me as a -rambling red-brick image of futurity, where nothing _is_, but all things -_are to be_. Came home and habited. At half-past twelve, Captain ---- -came for me; just as we were going, ---- called. He was on horseback, -and asked leave to join us, which I agreed to very readily. He was -pilot, and led us round and about, through the woods, and across the -waters; all of which, as Captain ---- observed, was in the day's work. -We returned at half-past three. Directly after dinner, I set out to pay -sundry cards. The day had been heavenly,--bright, and warm, and balmy; -the evening was beautifully soft; and as I drove over hill and dale, -marsh and moorland, through the city of Washington, paying my cards, the -stars came out one after another in the still sky, and the scattered -lights of the town looked like a capricious congregation of -Jack-o'-lanterns, some high, some low, some here, some there, showing -more distinctly, by the dark spaces between them, the enormous share -that emptiness has in the congressional city. One of my visits lay -nearly three miles out of town, so that I was not back until six -o'clock. As I came rushing along the corridor, I met D---- coming to -meet me, who exclaimed, with an air of mingled horror and satisfaction, -"Oh, here you are!--here is coffee and Mr. ---- waiting for you!" I went -into the room, and found a goodly-looking personage, old enough to know -better, sitting with my father, who appeared amazingly disturbed, held -an open letter in his hand, and exclaimed, the moment I came in, "There, -sir, there is the young lady to speak for herself." I courtesied, and -sat down. "Fanny," quoth my father, "something particularly disagreeable -has occurred,--pray, can you call to mind any thing you said during the -course of your Thursday's ride, which was likely to be offensive to Mr. -----, or any thing abusive of this country?" As I have already had -sundry specimens of the great talent there is for tattle in the -exclusive coteries of this gossiping new world, I merely untied my -bonnet, and replied, that I did not at that moment recollect a word that -I had said during my whole ride, and should certainly not give myself -any trouble to do so. "Now, my dear," said my father, his own eyes -flashing with indignation, "don't put yourself into a passion; compose -yourself, and recollect. Here is a letter I have just received." He -proceeded to read it, and the contents were to this effect--that during -my ride with Mr. ---- I had said I did not choose to ride an American -gentleman's horse, and _had offered him two dollars for the hire of -his_; that moreover, I had spoken most derogatorily of America and -Americans; in consequence of all which, if my father did not give some -explanation, or make some apology to the public, I should certainly be -hissed off the stage, as soon as I appeared on it that evening. This was -pleasant. I stated the conversation as it had passed, adding, that as to -any sentiments a person might express on any subject, liberty of -opinion, and liberty of speech, were alike rights which belonged to -every body, and that, with a due regard to good feeling, and good -breeding, they were rights which nobody ought, and I never would forego. -Mr. ---- opened his eyes. I longed to add, that any conversation between -me and any other person was nobody's business but mine, and his or hers, -and that the whole thing was, on the part of the young gentleman -concerned, the greatest piece of blackguardism, and on that of the old -gentleman concerned the greatest piece of twaddle, that it had ever been -my good fortune to hear of. "For," said Mr. ----, "not less than -_fifty_ members of Congress have already mentioned the matter to me." -Fifty old gossiping women! why the whole thing is for all the world like -a village tattle in England, among half a dozen old wives round their -tea-pots. All Washington was in dismay; and my evil deeds and evil words -were the town talk,--fields, gaps, marshes, and all, rang with them. -This is an agreeable circumstance, and a display of national character -highly entertaining and curious.[87] It gave me at the time, however, a -dreadful side-ach, and nervous cough. I went to the theatre, dressed, -and came on the stage in the full expectation of being hissed off it, -which is a pleasant sensation, very, and made my heart full of -bitterness to think I should stand,--as no woman ought to stand,--the -mark of public insult. However, no such thing occurred,--I went on and -came off without any such trial of my courage; but I had been so much -annoyed, and was still so indignant, that I passed the intervals between -my scenes in crying,--which, of course, added greatly to the mirth and -spirit of my performance of Beatrice. In the middle of the play, Mr. ----- and Captain ---- came behind the scenes, and then, indeed, I _was_ -quite glad to see Englishmen; though their compassionate sympathies for -my wrongs, and tender fears lest I should catch cold behind those horrid -scenes, very nearly set me off crying again. A soft word, when one is in -deep commiseration of one's self, is very apt to open the flood-gates; -but I was ashamed to cry before them, so tried to keep my -heart-swellings down. When the play was over, came home. Mr. ---- came -and supped with us. By the by, he called this morning before I went out -riding, and expressed many sorrows at our departure. He is a clever and -extremely well-informed man, and I like him very much. When he was gone, -sat talking over the ---- affair. My father was in a greater passion -than I think I ever saw him before. I am sure I would not have warranted -one of that worthy young gentleman's bones, if he had fallen in with -him. I am very glad he did not; for, to knock a man down, even though he -does deserve it, is a serious matter rather. - - -_Wednesday, 30th, Philadelphia._ - -After breakfast, practised for an hour: wrote journal. Mr. ----, the -wild-eyed, flowing-haired, white-waistcoated, velvet-collared, ---- ---- -called upon me. He sat some time asking me questions; but, since the ----- affair, I have grown rather afraid of opening my mouth, and he had -the conversation chiefly to himself. Finished journal; dined at -half-past three: after dinner, went and sat with Mrs. ----. One Mr. -----, a Boston man who was at Mrs. ----'s ball last night, was in her -room. I was introduced to him, and he spoke of the ----s. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Sat with them till coffee-time. Went to the theatre at half-past five. -It poured with rain, in spite of which the house was very good: the play -was Fazio. When I came on in my fine dress, at the beginning of the -second act, the people hailed me with such a tremendous burst of -applause, and prolonged it so much, that I was greatly puzzled to -imagine what on earth possessed them. I concluded they were pleased with -my dress, but could not help being rather amused at their vehement and -continued clapping, considering they had seen it several times before. -However, they ceased at last, and I thought no more about it. Towards -the time for the beginning of the third act, which opens with my being -discovered waiting for Fazio's return, as I was sitting in my -dressing-room working, D---- suddenly exclaimed, "Hark!--what is that?" ----- opened the door, and we heard a tremendous noise of shouts and of -applause. "They are waiting for you, certainly," said D----. She ran -out, and returned, saying, "The stage is certainly waiting for you, -Fanny, for the curtain is up." I rushed out of the room; but on opening -the door leading to the stage, I distinctly heard my father's voice -addressing the audience. I turned sick with a sort of indefinite -apprehension, and on enquiry found that at the beginning of the play a -number of handbills had been thrown into the pit, professing to quote my -conversation with Mr. ---- at Washington, and calling upon the people to -resent my conduct in the grossest and most vulgar terms. This precious -document had, it seems, been brought round by somebody to my father, who -immediately went on with it in his hand, and assured the audience that -the whole thing was a falsehood. I scarce heard what he said, though I -stood at the side scene: I was crying dreadfully with fright and -indignation. How I wished I was a caterpillar under a green -gooseberry-bush! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Oh, how I did wince to think of going on again after this scene, though -the feeling of the audience was most evident; for all the applause I had -fancied they bestowed upon my dress was, in fact, an unsolicited -testimony of their disbelief in the accusation brought against me. They -received my father's words with acclamations; and when the curtain drew -up, and I was discovered, the pit rose and waved their hats, and the -applause was tremendous. I was crying dreadfully, and could hardly -speak; however, I mastered myself and went on with my part,--though, -what with the dreadful exertion that it is in itself, and the painful -excitement I had just undergone, I thought I should have fainted before -I got through with it. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Saturday, Feb. 2d._ - -After breakfast, ---- called to see how I did after my walk: he sat for -some time. At twelve, went out paying bills and calls; bought a German -aeolina; sat some time with old Mrs. ----, and spent a delightful hour -with Mr. ---- and his family. He is a most agreeable person, but he -thinks too well of acting. Came home; dined at three; Mr. and Mrs. ---- -dined with us. After dinner, went into her room, and remained there till -time to go to the theatre. Young ---- and Dr. ---- came in. The play was -the Gamester: it was my benefit, and I am afraid the good folks who -addressed that amiable placard to the public will have been rather ill -satisfied with their suggestion about my benefit. The house was -literally crammed, in consequence of that very circumstance,--crammed is -the word. When the curtain drew up, they applauded me without end, and I -courtesied as profoundly as I was able; indeed, I am extremely obliged -to this same excellent public, for they have testified most -satisfactorily every way the kindest feeling possible for me, and the -most entire faith in my good behaviour. I did not play well, my voice -was so dreadfully affected by my cough. - - -_Monday, 4th._ - -Dined at three. After dinner, Mrs. ---- came into our room, where I sang -and played till time to go to the theatre. The play was the Merchant of -Venice, and Katharine and Petruchio for the farce;--my father's benefit: -the house was crammed from floor to ceiling, as full as it could hold: -so much for the success of the hand-bills. Indeed, as somebody -suggested, I think if we could find the author of that placard out we -are bound to give him a handsome reward, for he certainly has given us -two of the finest benefits that ever were seen. I heard that a man said -the other day that he should not be surprised if _my father had got the -whole of this up himself_. Oh, day and night! that such thoughts should -come into any human being's head.[88] At the end, the people shouted and -shrieked for us. He went on, and made them a speech, and I went on and -made them a courtesy; and certainly they do deserve the civillest of -speeches, and lowest of courtesies from us, for they have behaved most -kindly and courteously to us; and, for mine own good part, I love the -whole city of Philadelphia from this time forth, for evermore.[89] - -Mr. ---- came round to the stage door to bid us good-night; and as we -drove off, a whole parcel of folk, who had gathered round the door to -see us depart, set up a universal hurrah! How strange a thing it is, -that popular shout. After all, Pitt or Canning could get no more for the -finest oratory that human lips ever uttered, or the wisest policy that -human brain ever devised. Sometimes they got the reverse; but then the -_hereafter_--there's the rub! Praise is so sweet to me that I would have -it lasting: above all, I would wish to feel that I deserved it. I must -do so if I am to value it a straw; and acting, even the best that ever -was seen, is, to my mind, but a poor claim to approbation. I think the -applause of an audience in a play-house should be reckoned with the -friendly and favourable opinions of a good-natured tipsy man,--'tis -given under excitement. Oh Lord! how unsatisfactory all things are! - - -_Wednesday, 13th, New York._ - -After dinner, ---- came in. He sat himself down, and presently was -over-head in reminiscences. His account of Tom Paine's escape from the -Conciergerie, on the eve of being guillotined, was extremely -interesting. His own introduction to, and subsequent acquaintance with, -that worthy, was equally so, and his summing up was highly -characteristic. "I tell ye, madam, the saving of that man's life was an -especial providence, that he might come over to this country, where his -works have done so much harm, and might have done so much more, and just -exemplify the result of his own principles put into practice in his own -person, and show that the glorious light of reason, and the noble -natural gifts of man, of which he preached so much, would neither -prevent a man's becoming a drunkard and a spendthrift, nor a debased -degraded being. If Paine had been guillotined, madam, he would have been -a martyr, and his works would have had ten times the power of evil they -had before. But he lived to be a miserable low unthrift, and sot, and -died neglected and despised by all reputable and respectable -individuals, and, I say again, it was a manifest providence that he did -so." We left the gentlemen to their wine for a short time, but were -presently summoned back. ---- had gone to the theatre. ---- began his -history to me, and it was, word for word, a repetition of Galt's book, -except that occasionally it was more touching. The pity of all this is, -the man's own consciousness that he is a lion. His vanity is almost as -amusing as his recollections are curious and interesting; and though the -tears were in my eye several times while he described the blessed time -he lived with his sweet Phoebe, yet, at others, I could scarce help -exclaiming, in the words of his own countryman, "Heigh, cretur, cretur! -thou hast unco plause o' thysel'!" He ended his narrative with a eulogy -of women that would have warmed the heart of a stone; and to my utter -surprise addressed Mr. ---- with, "Out upon ye, bachelors, all! ye throw -away your lives, and your life's happiness!" This last attack of ----'s -seemed too much for Mr. ----; and, as I turned to him with the tears in -my eyes, to desire he would not laugh, which he was doing very heartily, -he said he couldn't stand it any longer, and went away, apparently more -amused than edified by ----'s appeal. - - -_Thursday, 14th._ - -St. Valentine's day! I wish all these pretty golden days, which, like -the flowers in the sundial of Linnaeus, were wont so gaily to mark the -flight of time, were not becoming so dim in our calendars; I wish St. -Valentine's day, and May morning, and Christmas day, and New-Year's day, -were not putting off their holiday suits to wear the work-day russet of -their drudging fellows; I wish we were not making all things, of all -sorts, so completely of a neutral tint. - - * * * * * - -I wouldn't be in the Reform Parliament of England for ten thousand -pounds! ----, and ----, the bruiser, and the bankrupt! Oh, shame, -England, shame!--Poor England! - - -A RHAPSODY. - - White lady, sitting on the sea, - Tell to me, oh, tell to me, - How long shall thy reigning be, - White lady, sitting on the sea? - - Long as the oak with which I'm crown'd - Shall bear one leaf above the ground, - Round which the crawling ivy's grasp - Its cursed tendrils does not clasp; - Long as one foot remains to stand - Firm on its own ancestral land; - Or one true man be left to claim - The burden of a noble name; - Long as one Gothic shrine shall rise - With 'scutcheon'd tomb, and banner'd stall, - Or the blest glances of the skies, - Through storied casements dimly fall; - Long as one heart shall beat to hear - Legends of the old valiant time; - Long as the Sabbath wind shall bear - The music of one haunting chime. - - White lady, sitting on the sea, - Tell to me, oh, tell to me, - When shall thy downfalling be, - White lady, sitting on the sea? - - When the vile kennel mud is thrown - Upon the ermine of the king, - And the old worships are cast down - Before a rabble's triumphing; - When toothless ---- is young again, - To do the mischief he but dreams, - And little ---- shall make more plain - The good that glitters through his schemes; - When the steam-engine of the north - Leaves making essays and wry faces; - And patriot Whigs forget the worth - Of pensions, power, pride, and places; - When on the spot where Burke and Pitt - Earn'd their high immortality, - Boxers and bankrupts boldly sit, - Then, then shall my downfalling be. - - -_Monday, 18th._ - -After breakfast, went to rehearsal; came home and stitched at my -_Francoise de Foix_ head-dress. My father is extremely unwell; I scarce -think he will be able to get through his part to-night. After dinner, -practised, and read a canto in Dante. It pleases me, when I refer to -Biagioli's notes, to find that the very lines Alfieri has noted are -those under which I have drawn my emphatic pencil marks. At half-past -five, went to the theatre. The play was Macbeth, for my benefit: the -house was very full, and I played very ill. My father was dreadfully -exhausted by his work. I had an interesting discussion with Mr. ----- about the costume and acting of the witches in this awful play. I -should like to see them acted and dressed a little more like what they -should be, than they generally are. It has been always -customary,--Heaven only knows why,--to make low comedians act the -witches, and to dress them like old fish-women. Instead of the wild -unearthly appearance which Banquo describes, and which belongs to their -most terrible and grotesquely poetical existence and surroundings, we -have three jolly-faced fellows,--whom we are accustomed to laugh at, -night after night, in every farce on the stage,--with as due a -proportion of petticoats as any woman, letting alone witch, might -desire, jocose red faces, peaked hats, and broomsticks, which last -addition alone makes their costume different from that of Moll Flagon. -If I had the casting of Macbeth, I would give the witches to the first -melo-dramatic actors on the stage,--such men as T. P. Cooke, and O. -Smith, who understand all that belongs to picturesque devilry to -perfection,--and give them such dresses as, without ceasing to be -grotesque, should be a little more fanciful, and less ridiculous than -the established livery; something that would accord a little better with -the blasted heath, the dark fungus-grown wood, the desolate misty -hill-side, and the flickering light of the caldron cave.[90] - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Wednesday, 20th._ - -After breakfast, ---- and Mr. ---- came. ---- gave me the words and tune -of a bewitching old English ballad. Mr. ---- called and sat some time -with me: I like him mainly,--he's very pleasant and clever. That -handsome creature, Mme. ----, called with her daughter and her -son-in-law. Mr. ---- and ---- dined with us. After dinner, came to my -own room, sang over ----'s ballad, and amused myself with writing one of -my own. At half-past five, took coffee, and off to the theatre. The -house was very full; play, the Stranger: I didn't play well: I'd a gown -on that did not fit me, to which species of accident our _art_ is -marvellously subservient, for a tight arm-hole shall mar the grandest -passage in Queen Constance, and too long or too short a skirt keep one's -heart cold in the balcony scene in Juliet. Came home; supped; finished -marking the Winter's Tale. What a dense fool that fat old Johnson must -have been in matters of poetry! his notes upon Shakspeare make one -swear, and his summing up of the Winter's Tale is worthy of a newspaper -critic of the present day,--in spirit, I mean, not language; Dr. Johnson -always wrote good English.--What dry, and sapless, and dusty earth his -soul must have been made of, poor fat man! After all, 'tis even a -greater misfortune than fault to be so incapable of beauty. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -BALLAD. - - The Lord's son stood at the clear spring head, - The May on the other side, - "And stretch me your lily hand," he said, - "For I must mount and ride. - - "And waft me a kiss across the brook, - And a curl of your yellow hair; - Come summer or winter, I ne'er shall look - Again on your eyes so fair. - - "Bring me my coal-black steed, my squire, - Bring Fleetfoot forth!" he cried; - "For three-score miles he must not tire, - To bear me to my bride. - - "His foot must be swift, though my heart be slow; - He carries me towards my sorrow; - To the Earl's proud daughter I made my vow, - And I must wed her to-morrow." - - The Lord's son stood at the altar stone,-- - The Earl's proud daughter near: - "And what is that ring you have gotten on, - That you kiss so oft and so dear? - - "Is it a ring of the yellow gold, - Or something more precious and bright? - Give me that ring in my hand to hold, - Or I plight ye no troth to-night." - - "It is not a ring of the yellow gold, - But something more precious and bright; - But never shall hand, save my hand, hold - This ring by day or night." - - "And now I am your wedded wife, - Give me the ring, I pray."-- - "You may take my lands, you may take my life, - But never this ring away." - - They sat at the board; and the lady bride - Red wine in a goblet pour'd; - "And pledge me a health, sweet sir," she cried, - "My husband and my lord." - - The cup to his lips he had scarcely press'd, - When he gasping drew his breath, - His head sank down on his heaving breast, - And he said, "It is death! it is death!-- - - "Oh bury me under the gay green shaw - By the brook, 'neath the heathery sod, - Where last her blessed eyes I saw, - Where her blessed feet last trod!" - - -_Saturday, 23d._ - -We came home at two. ---- and the horses were waiting for me: we mounted -and rode down to the Hoboken ferry, where we crossed. The day was like -an early day in spring in England; a day when the almond trees would all -have been in flower, the hawthorn hedges putting forth their tender -green and brown shoots, and the primroses gemming the mossy roots of the -trees by the water-courses. The spring is backwarder here a good deal -than with us: to be sure, it is sudden compared with ours,--as my -poetising friend hath it,-- - - - "Not with slow steps, in smiles, in tears advancing, - But with a bound, like Indian girls in dancing." - - -I do not like this: I like to linger over the sweet hourly and daily -fufilment of hope, which the slow progress of vegetation in my own dear -country allows one full enjoyment of; to watch the leaf from the bark, -the blossom from the bud; the delicate, pale-white, peeping heads of the -hawthorn, to the fragrant, snowy, delicious flush of flowering; the -downy green clusters of small round buds on the apple trees, to the -exquisite rosy-tinted clouds of soft blossoms waving against an evening -sky. The melted snow had made the roads all but impassable; however, the -day was delightfully mild and sunny, and therefore we did not get -chilled by the very temperate rate at which we were obliged to proceed. -We turned off to look at the Turtle Pavilion, and, pursuing the water's -edge, got up upon a species of high dyke between some marshes that open -into the river. Our path, however, was presently intercepted by a stile, -and as the horses were not quite of the sort one could have risked a -leap with, ---- got off and endeavoured to lead his charger round the -edge of the steep bank, but the brute refused that road, and we were -forced to turn back; and, after floundering about over some of the -roughest worst ground imaginable, we e'en went out of the Hoboken domain -at the gate where we entered, and pursued that beautiful road -overlooking the Hudson, under that fine range of cliffs which are the -first idea, as it were, of the Palisadoes. We took the lower road down -into the glen below Weehawk. The sun shone gloriously: the little fairy -stream that owns this narrow glade was singing and dancing along its -beautiful domain with a sweet gleesome voice, and a succession of little -sparkling breaks and eddies that looked like laughter. We left the muddy -road, and turned our horses into the stream; but its bed was very stony -and uneven, and we were obliged to turn out of it again. We rode like -very impudent persons up to the house on the height. The house itself is -too unsheltered for comfort either in summer or winter, but the view -from its site is beautiful, and we had it in perfection to-day. Standing -at an elevation of more than a hundred feet from the river, we looked -down its magnificent, broad, silvery avenue, to the Narrows--that rocky -gate that opens towards my home. New York lay bright and distinct on the -opposite shore, glittering like a heap of toys in the sunny distance: -the water towards Sandy Hook was studded with sails; and far up on the -other side the river rolled away among shores that, even in this wintry -time of bare trees and barren earth, looked gay and lovely in the -sunshine. We turned down again; but after crossing the bridge over the -pretty brook, we took an upper path to the right, and riding through -some leafless, warm, sunny woodlands, joined the road that leads to the -Weehawken height, and so returned to New York. On our way, discussing -the difference between religion as felt by men and women, ---- agreed -with me, that hardly one man out of five thousand held any distinct -entire and definite religious belief. He said that religion was a -sentiment, and that, as regarded all creeds, there was no midway with -them; that faith or utter disbelief were the only alternatives; for that -displacing one jot of any of them made the whole totter,--which last is, -in some measure, true, but I do not think it is true that religion is -_only_ a sentiment. There are many reasons why women are more religious -than men. Our minds are not generally naturally analytical--our -education tends to render them still less so: 'tis seldom in a woman's -desire (because seldom in her capacity) to investigate the abstract -bearings of any metaphysical subject. Our imaginations are exceedingly -sensitive, our subservience to early impressions, and exterior forms, -proportionate; and our habits of thought, little enlarged by experience, -observation, or proper culture, render us utterly incapable of almost -any logical train of reasonings. With us, I think, therefore, faith is -the only secure hold; for disbelief, acting upon mental constructions so -faulty and weak, would probably engender insanity, or a thousand species -of vague, wild, and mischievous enthusiasms.[91] I believe, too, that -women are more religious than men, because they have warmer and deeper -affections. There is nothing surely on earth that can satisfy and -utterly fulfil the capacity for loving which exists in every woman's -nature. Even when her situation in life is such as to call forth and -constantly keep in exercise the best affections of her heart, as a -wife, and a mother, it still seems to me as if more would be wanting to -fill the measure of yearning tenderness, which, like an eternal -fountain, gushes up in every woman's heart; therefore I think it is that -we turn, in the plenitude of our affections, to that belief which is a -religion of love, and where the broadest channel is open to receive the -devotedness, the clinging, the confiding trustfulness, which are -idolatry when spent upon creatures like ourselves, but become a holy -worship when offered to Heaven.[92] Nor is it only from the abundance -and overflowing of our affections that we are devout; 'tis not only from -our capacity of loving, but also from our capacity of suffering, that -our piety springs. Woman's physical existence, compared with that of -man, is one of incessant endurance. This in itself begets a necessity -for patience, a seeking after strength, a holding forth of the hands for -support; thus, the fragile frame, the loving heart, and the ignorant -mind, are in us sources of religious faith. But it often happens that -those affections, so strong, so deep, so making up the sum and substance -of female existence, instead of being happily employed, as I have -supposed above, are converted into springs of acute suffering. These -wells of feeling hidden in the soul, upon whose surface the slightest -smile of affection falls like sunlight, but whose very depths are -stirred by the breath of unkindness, are too often un-visited by the -kindly influence of kindred sympathies, and go wearing their own -channels deeper, in silence and in secrecy, and in infinite -bitterness,--undermining health, happiness, the joy of life, and making -existence one succession of burden-bearing days, and toilsome, aching, -heavy hours. It is in this species of blight, which falls upon many -women, that any religious faith becomes a refuge and a consolation, more -especially that merciful and compassionate faith whose words are, "Come -unto me, all ye that labour and are heavy laden, and I will give you -rest." To that rest betakes itself the wearied spirit, the wounded -heart; and it becomes a blessing beyond all other blessings; a source of -patience, of fortitude, of hope, of strength, of endurance; a shelter in -the scorching land,--a spring of water in the wilderness. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Saturday, April 13th._ - -At a quarter after four, drove down to the boat. ---- was waiting to see -us off, and ---- presently made his appearance to see us on. Owing to -the yesterday's boat not having sailed, it was crowded to-day, and -freighted most heavily, so as to draw an unusual quantity of water, and -proceed at a much slower rate than common. At a few minutes after five, -the huge brazen bell on deck began to toll; the mingled crowd jostled, -and pushed, and rolled about; the loiterers on shore rushed on board; -the bidders-farewell on board rushed on shore; D---- and I took a quiet -sunny stand, away from all the confusion, and watched from our floating -palace New York glide away like a glittering dream from before us. A -floating palace indeed it was, in size and in magnificence: I never saw -any thing to compare with the beauty, and comfort, and largeness of all -its accommodations. Our Scotch steam-boat, the United Kingdom, is a -cockboat to it, and even the splendid Hudson boat, the North America, is -far inferior to it in every respect, except, I believe, swiftness,--but -then these Boston boats have sometimes very heavy sea to go through.[93] -Besides the ladies' cabin, this boat is furnished with half a dozen -state rooms, taken from the upper deck,--an inexpressible luxury. Into -one of these our night-bags were conveyed, and we returned to the deck -to watch the sun down. A strong and piercing wind blew over the waters, -and almost cut me in half as I stood watching the shores, which I did -not wish to lose by going in. However, I might have done so, and lost -but little; for after passing Hell-gate, where the rocks in the river -and the banks have rather a picturesque appearance, there was neither -form nor comeliness in the flat wearisome land to either side; and the -only objects which detained me on deck were the bright blue waters -themselves, all shining in the sunset, and those lovely little boats, -with one mast and two glittering sails, scudding past us like fairy -craft upon the burnished waves. At about eight, we were summoned down to -tea, which was a compound meal of tea and supper. The company were so -numerous that they were obliged to lay the table twice. We waited till -the crowd had devoured their feed, and had ours in comparative peace and -quiet. An excellent man, by name ----, an officer in the American army, -made himself known to me, considering, as he afterwards told me, his -commission to be a sufficient right of introduction to any body. He was -a native of Boston, and was returning to it, after an absence of -_fourteen years_. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Sunday, 14th._ - -The morning was beautifully bright and clear. While dressing, heard the -breakfast-bell, and received sundry intimations to descend and eat; -however, I declined leaving my cabin until I had done dressing, which I -achieved very comfortably at leisure, during which time the ship -weathered Point Judith, where the Atlantic comes in to the shore between -the termination of Long Island and the southern extremity of Rhode -Island. The water is generally rough here, and I had been prophesied an -agreeable little fit of sea-sickness; but no such matter,--we passed it -very smoothly, and presently stopped at Newport, on Rhode Island, to -leave and take up passengers. The wind was keen and bracing; the morning -beautifully bright and sunny; the blue waters, all curled and crisped -under the arrow-like wind, broke into a thousand sapphire ridges tipped -with silver foam, that drove away in sparkling showers before the bitter -breath of the north. We entered Providence river in a few moments, and -steamed along between Rhode Island and the main land, until we reached -Providence, a town on the shore of Rhode Island, where we were to leave -the boat, and pursue our route by coach to Boston. I walked on deck with -Captain ---- for an hour after breakfast, breasting the wind, which -almost drove us back each time we turned up the deck towards the prow. -After my walk, went in, righted my hair, which the wind had dressed _a -la frantic_, and came and sat in the sun with Brewster's book,--which I -like mainly,--till we reached Providence. The boat was so heavily laden -that she drew an enormous quantity of water, and was fairly aground -once, as we were nearing the pier. When the crowd of passengers had -ebbed away, and we had seen them pack themselves into their stages and -drive off, we adjourned to our exclusive extra, which, to our great -sorrow, could not take all our luggage after all. The distance from -Providence to Boston is forty miles; but we were six hours and a half -doing it over an excellent road. The weather was beautiful, but the -country still sad and wintry-looking. The spring is backwarder here than -in New York by full three weeks: the trees were all bare and leafless, -except the withered foliage of the black oaks; and the face of the -country, with its monotonous rises, and brooks flowing through flat -fields, reminded me of parts of Cumberland. Every now and then, however, -we came to a little lakelet, or, as they call them here, pond, of the -holiest deepest dark-blue water, sparkling like a magic sapphire, -against smooth, bright, golden, sandy shores, and screened by vivid -thickets of cedar bushes. They were like little bits of fairy-land, and -relieved the wearisomeness of the road. As we approached Boston, the -country assumed a more cultivated aspect,--the houses in the road-side -villages were remarkably neat, and pretty, and cottage-like,--the land -was well farmed; and the careful cultivation, and stone walls, which -perform the part of hedges here, together with the bleak look of the -distances on each side, made me think of Scotland. We entered Boston -through a long road with houses on each side, making one fancy one's -self in the town long before one reaches it. We did not arrive until -half-past six. Went to my own room and dressed for dinner. When I came -to the drawing-room, found the ----s: dear ---- was half crazy at seeing -us again. After dinner, came to my room with her, and righted all my -clothes, and established myself; after tea, returned to the same work, -and, at about half-past ten, came to bed. Here we are in a new -place!--How desolate and cheerless this constant changing of homes is! -the Scripture saith, "There is no rest to the wicked;" and truly I never -felt so convinced of my own wickedness as I have done since I have been -in this country. - - -_Monday, 15th._ - -Went over to the theatre to rehearse Fazio. Mr. ----, however, met us at -the door, and assured me there was no necessity for my doing so till -to-morrow. ---- came early to see me, and stayed all the morning. Mr. ----- called this morning,--I was quite glad to see him,--and Mrs. ----, -whom I thought beautiful. Tried to finish letter to ----, but was -interrupted about a dozen times. At about half-past four, the horses -came to the door. The afternoon was lovely, and the roads remarkably -good: I had a fine handsome spirited horse, who pulled my hands to -pieces for want of being properly curbed. We rode out to _Cambridge_, -the University of Massachusetts, about three miles distant from Boston. -The village round it, with its white cottages, and meeting roads, and -the green lawns and trees round the college, reminded me of England. We -rode on to a place called Mount Auburn, a burial-ground which the -Bostonians take great pride in, and which is one of the lions of the -place. The entrance is a fine solid granite gateway, in a species of -_Egyptian_ style, with this inscription engraved over it: "Then shall -the dust return to the earth as it was, and the spirit shall return unto -God, who gave it."[94] The whole place is at present in an unfinished -state, but its capabilities are very great, and, as far as it has -progressed, they have been taken every advantage of. The enclosure is of -considerable extent,--about one hundred acres,--and contains several -high hills and deep ravines, in the bottom of which are dark, still, -melancholy-looking meres. The whole is cut, with much skill and good -taste, by roads for carriages, and small narrow footpaths. The various -avenues are distinguished by the names of trees, as, Linden walk, Pine -walk, Beech walk; and already two or three white monuments are seen -glimmering palely through the woods, reminding one of the solemn use to -which this ground is consecrated, which, for its beauty, might seem a -pleasure-garden instead of a place of graves. Mr. ---- delighted me very -much: he told me he was looking for a plot of earth in this cemetery -which he intended to dedicate to poor English people, who might come out -here, and die without the means of being decently laid to rest. We -looked, with this view, at a patch of ground on the slope of a high -hill, well shadowed over with trees, and descending to a great depth to -a dark pond, shining in the hollow like an emerald. 'Twas sad and -touching to gaze at that earth, with the thought that amidst strangers, -and in a strange land, the pity of a fellow-countryman should here allot -to his brethren a grave in the quiet and solemn beauty of this hallowed -ground. Our time was limited; so, after lingering for a short space -along the narrow pathways that wind among dwellings of the dead, we rode -home. We reached Boston at a quarter to seven. My father and D---- were -already gone to the theatre. I dressed, and went over myself -immediately. The play was begun: the house was not very full. The -managers have committed the greatest piece of mismanagement -imaginable,--they advertise my father alone in Hamlet to-night, and -instead of making me play alone to-morrow night, and so securing our -attraction singly before we act together, we are _both_ to act to-morrow -in Fazio, which circumstance, of course, kept the house thin to-night. -My father's Hamlet is very beautiful. 'Tis curious, that when I see him -act I have none of the absolute feeling of contempt for the profession -that I have while acting myself. What he does appears, indeed, like the -work of an artist; and though I always lament that he loves it as he -does, and has devoted so much care and labour to it as he has, yet I -certainly respect acting more while I am seeing him act than at any -other time.[95] Yet surely, after all, acting is nonsense, and as I sit -here opposite the churchyard, it seems to me strange to think, that when -I come down into that darkness, I shall have eaten bread, during my -life, earned by such means. The Ophelia was perfectly beautiful: I think -I scarcely ever saw a more faultless piece of mortality in point of -outward loveliness. The eyes and brow of an angel, serene and calm, yet -bright and piercing; a mouth chiselled like a Grecian piece of -sculpture, with an expression of infinite refinement; fair round arms -and hands, a beautifully-moulded foot, and a figure that seemed to me -perfectly proportioned. It did not perhaps convey to me the idea of such -absolute loveliness as ----'s figure did; but altogether I think I never -saw a fairer woman--it was delightful lo look at her.[96] The audience -are, upon the whole, cold;--very still and attentive, however, and when -they do warm, it is certainly very effectually, for they shout and -hurrah like mad. - - * * * * * - - -_Wednesday, 27th._ - -Somebody very civilly has sent me that beautiful book, Rogers's Italy: -it set me wild again with my old frenzy for the south of Europe. Wrote -to ----; after dinner, practised for an hour; at half-past five, off to -the theatre. The house was crammed: the play, the Stranger. It is quite -comical to see the people in the morning at the box-office: our window -is opposite to it, and 'tis a matter of the greatest amusement to me to -watch them. They collect in crowds for upwards of an hour before the -doors open, and when the bolts are withdrawn, there is a yelling and -shouting as though the town were on fire. In they rush, thumping and -pummelling one another, and not one comes out without rubbing his head, -or his back, or showing a piteous rent in his clothes. I was surprised -to see men of a very low order pressing foremost to obtain boxes, but I -find that they sell them again at an enormous increase to others who -have not been able to obtain any; and, the better to carry on their -traffic, these worthies smear their clothes with molasses, and sugar, -etc., in order to prevent any person of more decent appearance, or whose -clothes are worth a cent, from coming near the box-office: this is -ingenious, and deserves a reward. Our other window looks out upon a -large churchyard, in the midst of which stands a cenotaph, erected by -Franklin in honour of his father. Between the view of the play-house, -and the view of the burial-ground, my contemplations are curiously -tinged. This house (the Tremont) is admirably quiet and comfortable. - - -_Thursday, 18th._ - -After breakfast, went to rehearsal,--the School for Scandal,--however, -half the people were not there, so the rehearsal was nought. Came home, -and at half-past eleven rode out; the day was beautifully bright: we -rode to a beautiful little mere, called Jamaica Pond, through some -country very like Scotland. We turned from the road into a gentleman's -estate, and rode up a green rise into an enclosed field, which commanded -an extensive view of the country below. But the spring tarries still, -and though her smile is in the sky, the trees are leafless, and -blossomless, and wintry-looking still. We came in by a pretty village -called Roxbury, about two miles and a half distant from Boston: here we -stopped to get a nosegay for my Lady Teazle, at a very pretty -green-house, kept by a mechanic, who has devoted his leisure hours to -the pleasurable and profitable pursuits of gardening. We returned to -town at about half-past two. I ran into the drawing-room, and found ---- -sitting with my father. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Saturday, 20th._ - -Walked up to the State House. The day was any thing but agreeable; a -tremendous high wind (easterly of course,--'tis the only wind they have -in Boston), and a burning sun tempered only by clouds of dust, in which, -every two minutes, the whole world,--at least, as much as we could see -of it,--was shrouded. On entering the hall of the State House, we -confronted Chantry's statue of Washington, which stands in a recess -immediately opposite the entrance. I saw that, how many years ago, in -his study at Pimlico! We proceeded to mount into the cupola, whence a -very extensive view is obtained of the city and its surroundings,--and a -cruel height it was! I began it at full speed, like a wise woman, but -before I got to the top was so out of breath, that I could hardly -breathe at all: defend me from such altitudes!--and, after all, the day -was hazy and not favourable for our purpose; the wind came in through -the windows of the lantern like a tornado; and, as my father observed, -after the exertion of ascending, 'twas the very best place in the world -for catching one's death of cold. We came down as quickly as we could. -At about twelve, we rode to Mount Auburn. The few days of sunshine since -we were last there have clothed the whole earth with delicate purple and -white blossoms, a little resembling the wood anemone, but growing close -to the soil, and making one think of violets with their pale purple -colour: they have no fragrance whatever. We afterwards rode on to a -beautiful little lake called Fresh Pond, along whose margin we followed -a pretty woody path: a high bank covered with black-looking pines rose -immediately on our right, and on our left the clear waters of the -rippling lake came dancing to and fro along the pebbly shore, which -shone bright and golden under their crystal folds. We stood with our -hats off to receive the soft wind upon our brows, and to listen to the -chiming of the water upon the beach, the most delicious sound in all -nature's orchestra. We then turned back and rode home. By the by, on our -way out to Mount Auburn we took the Charleston road, and rode over -Bunker Hill. They have begun a monument upon the spot where General -Warren was killed, to commemorate the event. I felt strangely as I rode -over that ground. Mr. ---- was the only American of our party, but, -though in the minority, he had rather the best of it. And this is where -so much English blood was shed, thought I; for, after all, 'twas all -English blood,--do as they can, they can never get rid of their stock; -and deeply as oppression and resistance have dug the grave in which all -kindred feeling seems for a time to have been buried,--'tis only, I -believe and trust, for a time,--buried in blood and fierce warfare, to -spring up again in peace and mutual respect. England and America ought -not to be enemies, 'tis unnatural while the same language is spoken in -both lands. Until Americans have found a tongue for themselves, they -must still be the children of old England, for they speak the words her -children speak by the fireside of her homes. Oh, England! noble, noble -land! They may be proud of many things, these inheritors of a new world, -but of nothing more than that they are descended from Englishmen; that -their fathers once trod the soil whereon has grown more goodness, more -greatness, more beauty, and more truth, than on any other earth under -God's sun. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At half-past four, we went to dine with the ----s. Their house is very -pretty and comfortable. When first we went in, we were shown into a -couple of drawing-rooms, in which there were beautiful marble copies of -one or two of the famous statues. One of Canova's dancing girls, the -glorious Diana, a reclining figure of Cleopatra, an exquisite -thing,--the crouching Venus, and the lovely antique Cupid and Psyche. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -'Tis strange that feelings should pass from our hearts and minds as -clouds pass from the face of heaven, as though they had never been -there;--yet not so, after all; they do not pass so tracklessly,--they do -leave faint shadows behind; they leave a darker colour upon the face of -all existence: sometimes they leave a sad conviction of wasted -capabilities, and time, precious time, expended in vain. Yet not in -vain: even though our feelings change,--pass, perhaps, to our own -consciousness--cease altogether,--'tis not in vain--life is going -on--experience and solemn wisdom may come with the coming time; and -existence is, after all, but a series of experiments upon our spiritual -nature. Our trials vary with our years; and though we deem (too often -rightly) that suffering and disappointment are but barren thorns, -whereon grows neither fruit nor flower, 'tis our sin that they are so, -for they are designed to bear an excellent harvest. "Sweet are the uses -of adversity;" so he has said who knew all things, and so indeed to the -wise they are. - - -_Tuesday, 30th._ - -We rode down to the "Chelsea Ferry," and crossed over the Charles river, -where the shore opposite Boston bears the name of that refuge for -damaged marine stores. The breath of the sea was delicious, as we -crossed the water in one of the steam-boats constantly plying to and -fro; and on the other side, as we rode towards the beach, it came -greeting us delightfully from the wide waters. When we started from -Boston, the weather was intensely hot, and the day promised to be like -the day before yesterday, a small specimen of the dog-days. We had about -a five miles' ride through some country that reminded me of Scotland: -now and then the dreary landscape was relieved by the golden branches of -a willow tree, and the delicate pale peach blossoms, and tiny white buds -in the apple orchards, peeping over some stone dyke, like a glance over -the wall from the merry laughing spring. So we reached Chelsea beach, a -curving, flat, sandy shore, forming one side of a small bay which runs -up between this land and a rocky peninsula that stretches far out into -the ocean, called Nahant. At the extremity of the basin lay glimmering a -while sunny town, by name _Lynn_;--'tis quite absurd the starts and -stares which the familiar names cause one for ever to make here. This -small bay is beautifully smooth and peaceful; the shore is a shelving -reach of hard fine sand, nearly two miles long, and the wild waves are -warded off in their violence from it by the rocky barrier of Nahant. How -happy I was to see the beautiful sea once more,--to be once more -galloping over the golden sands,--to be once more wondering at and -worshipping the grandeur and loveliness of this greatest of God's -marvellous works. How I do love the sea!--my very soul seems to gather -energy, and life, and light, from its power, its vastness, its bold -bright beauty, its fresh invigorating airs, its glorious, triumphant, -rushing sound. The thin, thin rippling waves came like silver leaves -spreading themselves over the glittering sand, with just a little, -sparkling, pearly edge, like the cream of a bright glass of champagne. -Close along the shore the water was of that pale transparent green -colour, that blends so delicately with the horizon, sometimes at -sunset; but out beyond, towards the great deep, it wore that serene and -holiest blue that surrounds one in mid-ocean, when the earth is nearly -as far below as the heaven seems high above us. For a short time my -spirits seemed like uncaged birds; I rejoiced with all my might,--I -could have shouted aloud for delight; I galloped far along the sand, as -close into the water's restless edge as my horse would bear to go. But -the excitement died away, and then came vividly back the time when last -I stood upon the sea beach at Cramond, and lost myself in listening to -that delicious sound of the chiming waters--I was many years younger -then. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The end of my ride was sadder than the beginning, for at first my senses -alone took cognizance of what surrounded me, and afterwards my soul -looked on it, and it grew dark. We rode two miles along the beach, and -stopped at a little wooden hut, where, Mr. ---- told me, sportsmen, who -come to shoot plover along the flats by the shore, resort to dress their -dinners and refresh themselves. Here we dismounted: lay in the sun on -the roof with the fresh, sweet, blessed breath of heaven fanning us. My -horse thought proper to break his bridle and walk himself off through -the fields: they followed him with corn, and various inducements; ---- -and I, meantime, ran down to the water, collecting interesting relics, -muscle shells, quartz, pebbles, and sea-weed; finally, we remounted and -returned home. The weather had changed completely, and become quite -bleak and cold: the variations of the climate in this place are -terrible. As we rode down a pleasant lane towards the Salem road, we met -a large crowd of country-people busily employed in raising the framework -of a house. In this part of the country, the poorer class of people -build their houses, or rather, the wooden frames of their houses, -entirely before they set them up. When the skeleton is entirely -finished, they call together all their neighbours to assist in the -raising, which is an event of much importance, and generally ends in a -merry-making. The filling up the outline of the habitation, which they -do with boards here, is an after work: the frame seems to be the -material part of the building, and slight enough too, I thought, for -protection against these bitter east winds. We reached home at about -half-past two. The play was Much Ado about Nothing: the house was spoilt -by the fair which the ladies have been getting up for the blind here, -and which was lighted and open for inspection previous to to-morrow, -when the sale is to take place. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -LINES. - - * * * and I - Am reading, too, my book of memory: - With eyelids closed, over the crested foam, - And the blue marbled sea, I seek my home. - All present things forgotten, on the shore - Of the romantic Forth I stand once more; - Once more I hear the waves' harmonious strife; - Once more, upon the mountain coast of Fife, - I see the checker'd lights and shadows fall. - Upon the sand crumbles the ruin'd wall - That guards no more the desolate demesne, - And the deserted mansion. High between - The summer clouds the Ochil hills arise; - And far, far, like a shadow in the skies, - Ben Lomond towers aloft in sovereign height. - O, Cramond beach! are thy sands still as bright-- - Thy waters still as sunny,--thy wild shore - As lonely and as lovely as of yore?-- - Haunts of my happy time! as wandering back - Along my life, on memory's faithful track, - How fair ye seem,--how fair, how dear ye are! - Ye need not to be gazed at from afar; - Deceptive distance lends no brighter hue; - Your beauty and your peacefulness were true. - Not yours the charms from which we wearied stray, - And own them only when they're far away. - O, be ye blest for all the happiness - Which I have known in your wild loneliness. - Old sea, whose voice yet chimes upon my ear,-- - Old paths, whose every winding step was dear,-- - Dark rocky promontories,--echoing caves, - Worn hollow by the white feet of the waves,-- - Blue lake-like waters,--legend-haunted isle, - Over ye all, bright be the summer's smile; - And gently fall the winter on your breast, - Haunts of my youth, my memory's place of rest. - - -_Wednesday, May 1st._ - -Mr. ---- came in the morning, and I settled to call down at eleven for -Mrs. ---- to go to the fair. We drove to Faneuil Hall, a building -opposite the market, which was appropriated to the uses of the fair; but -the crowd was so dense round the steps, that we found it impossible to -approach them, and wisely gave up the attempt, determining to take our -drive, and then come back and try our later fortune. We drove down to -the Chelsea beach. The day was bleak and cold, though bright, with a -cutting east wind. After taking a good race along the bright creaming -edge, we returned to the carriage, and drove into town again to the -fair, which we managed at last to enter. The whole thing was crowd, -crush, and confusion, to my bewildered eyes. We got upon a platform -behind the stalls, and squeezed our way to Mrs. ----'s shop, where my -father had desired me to buy him a card-case, which I did. I found ---- -installed in her stall. ---- joined us, and Mr. ----, who drew me away -to his wife's table, where I bought one or two things, and, having -emptied my purse, came away. After dinner, Mr. ---- came in: he showed -us some things he had bought at the fair. I thought the prices enormous, -but the money is well spent in itself, or rather, on its ultimate -object, and the immediate return is of no import. - - -_Thursday, 2d._ - -After breakfast, went over to rehearsal; at half-past eleven, went out -to ride: the day was heavenly, bright, and mild, with a full, soft, -sweet spring breeze blowing life and health over one. The golden -willow-trees were all in flower, and the air, as we rode by them, was -rich with their fragrance. The sky was as glorious as the sky of -Paradise: the whole world was full of loveliness; and my spirits were in -most harmonious tune with all its beauty. We rode along the chiming -beach, talking gravely of many matters, temporal and spiritual; and when -we reached the pines, I dismounted, entreated for a scrap of paper, -and, in the miserable little parlour of this miserable little mansion, -sat down and scribbled some miserable doggrel to ease my heart. How -beautiful the scene around me was! the bright boundless sea, smooth as a -sapphire, except at the restless rippling edge; the serene holy sky -looking down so earnestly and gently on the flowering earth; the -reviving breeze, dipping like a bird its fresh wings into the -water,--how beautiful all things did seem to me,--how full of witnesses -of the great power and goodness that created them. Why is it that clouds -ever come between us and God when there are seasons like this, when we -seem to sit at his very feet,--when his glory and his mercy seem the -atmosphere we are breathing, and our whole existence is lifted, for a -time, into the reality of all we hope and pray for? Yet these are but -passing emotions: they are not, indeed, the very spirit of God,--they -are but reflections of his image, caught from the glorious mirror of -nature. The sky becomes cloudy,--the sea stormy; the blossoming and the -bearing seasons pass away, and winter comes apace, with withered aspect, -and bitter biting breath; the face of the universe becomes dark, and the -trust, and faith, and joy of our souls, fade into doubt, disbelief, and -sorrow. Infirmity and imperfection pluck us back from our heavenward -flight, and the weight of our mortality drags us down fast, fast again -towards the earth. These fair outward creatures, and the blessed -emotions they excite, will pass away,--must--do pass away,--and where is -the abiding revelation of God to which we shall turn? It lives for ever, -in the still burning light of a strong and steadfast soul; in the -resolute will and high unshaken purpose of good; in the quiet, calm, -collected might of reason; in the undying warmth and brightness of a -pure and holy heart. - - * * * * * - -My ride did me ten thousand goods. As we were riding through Mrs. ----'s -farm, a little boy came running to meet me with his hand full of -beautiful flowers, which he stood upon tiptoe to thrust into my hand, -and, without waiting to be thanked, rushed back into the house. I was -delighted: the flowers were exquisite, and the manner of the gift very -enchanting. Altogether, I do not know when I have been so completely -filled with pleasurable emotions as during this ride. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -LINES. - - To the smooth beach, the silver sea - Comes rippling in a thousand smiles, - And back again runs murmuringly, - To break around yon distant isles. - The sunshine, through a floating veil - Of golden clouds, looks o'er the wave, - And gilds, far off, the outline pale, - Of many a rocky cape and cave, - The breath of spring comes balmily - Over the newly-blossom'd earth; - The smile of spring, on sea, and sky, - Is shedding light, and love, and mirth. - I would that thou wert by my side, - As underneath the rosy bloom - Of flowering orchard trees I ride, - And drink their fragrant fresh perfume; - I would that thou wert by my side, - To feel this soft air on thy brow, - And listen to the chiming tide - Along that smooth shore breaking now; - I would that thou wert here to bless, - As I do now, the love and care, - That, with such wealth of loveliness, - Have made life's journeying-land so fair. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -I have taken several enormous rides round Boston, and am more and more -delighted with its environs, which are now in full flush of blossoming, -as sweet, and fresh, and lovely as any thing can be. On Saturday, rode -to the Blue Hills, a distance of upwards of twelve miles. The roads -round this place are almost as good as roads in England, and the country -altogether reminds me of that dear little land.[97] These Blue Hills -were, a few years ago, a wilderness of forest--the favourite resort of -rattlesnakes; but the trees have been partly cleared, and though 'tis -still a wild desolate region, clothed with firs, and uncheered by a -human habitation, its more savage tenants have disappeared with the -thick coverts in which they nestled, and we rode to the summit of the -highest hill without seeing any thing in the shape of Eve's enemy. At -the top, by the by, we did find some species of building in decay and -ruin. Whoever perched himself up there had no mind to be overlooked, and -must have been fond of fresh air. The view from the mountain is -magnificent, yet I do not believe the elevation to be very -extraordinary; although, as I looked down, it seemed to me as though the -world was stretched at my feet; and I thought of the temptation of our -Saviour. The various villages, with their blossoming orchards, looked -like patches of a snow-scene; the river wound, like a silver snake, all -round the fields; the little lakes lay diminished to drops of bright -blue light; and the lesser mountains rose below us like the waves of a -dark sea. The whole was strange and awful to me--the savage loneliness -of the place, its apparent remoteness from the earth, and its walkers, -filled me with a solemn sensation. Had I been there alone, I do not know -a place where I should sooner have expected to meet some of the -wandering spirits of mid-air,--shapes, and sights, and beings of another -order from those of the world, that lay like a map below me. The -mountain itself is formed of granite, of which large slabs appeared -through the turf and brushwood. I looked in vain for what I found in -such abundance on the Portland hill, the sweet wild thyme. I thought I -should find some of it among the stony rifts, where it loves to cling, -but I was disappointed. Indeed, I met with a much more severe -disappointment than that. The turf was thickly strewn with clumps of -violets, the very same in form and colour as our own sweet wood violet. -I stooped in an ecstasy to gather them, but found they were totally -senseless--mere pretences of violets. A violet without fragrance! a -wild one, too!--the thing's totally unnatural. I flung the little purple -cheat away in a rage. I have since found cowslips with the same entire -absence of fragrance. The heat and cold of this climate chill or wither -every thing; and almost all the flowers which are most common and sweet, -growing in the moist soil of England, seem reared with difficulty here, -and lose their great fragrance, their soul, as it were, under the -extreme influences of this sky.[98] There were many wild things growing -on this mountain, that for beauty, and delicacy of form and colour, -would have found honourable place in our conservatories; but they had -not the slightest perfume, and I took no delight in them. A scentless -flower is a monster; and though I acknowledge with due admiration the -pale beauty of that queen of flowers, the camelia, I never see it in its -cold pearl-like pride of bloom, that it does not strike me like a fine -lady--an artificial creature, fair indeed to behold, but without the -very property of a flower--sweetness. Oh, the lilies of the valley,--the -primroses,--the violets,--the sweet, sweet hawthorn,--the fresh fragrant -blush rose,--the purple lilac bloom,--the silver serynga,--the faint -breathing hyacinths,--the golden cowslips, of a morning, at the close of -May in England!--the fulness of sweetness that loads the temperate air, -as it breathes over the fresh lawns of that flower garden! - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I took another long ride to a quarry ten miles distant from Boston, -whence the granite, which is much used in Boston for building, is -drawn. I started at six in the morning, and rode about twenty miles -before breakfast, which I think was a piece of virtue bordering upon -heroism: to be sure, I had my reward, for any thing so sweet as the -whole world, at about half-past six, I never beheld. The dew was yet -fresh upon tree and flower,--the roads were shady and cool,--the dust -had not yet been disturbed; a mild, soft, full breeze blew over the -flowery earth, and the rosy apple blossoms stirred on the rocking boughs -against the serene and smiling sky. They have in this country neither -nightingales, thrushes, linnets, nor blackbirds, at least, none with the -same notes as ours; but every now and then, from the snowy cherry trees, -there came a wild snatch of trilling melody, like the clear ringing song -of a canary bird. My companion did not know the minstrel by his note; -but I never heard a more brilliant and joyful strain, or one more fitted -to the bright hour of opening day,--always excepting the lark's, that -triumphant embodied spirit of song.[99] The blackbird's song is to me -the sweetest in the world,--sad and soft, and rich as the sunsets -through which it is heard. The quarry which we visited is an extensive -vein of fine dark-coloured granite. We dismounted, and walked among the -workmen to see them at their various processes. This quarry, and one at -a short distance, merely supply the blocks of granite, which, being -detached from the main stone, are piled upon cars, and sent down an -inclined plane to the rail-road, by means of a powerful chain, which -acts at once as a support and check, suffering the load to proceed -slowly down the declivity, and at the same time sending up from the -bottom, upon another track, the empty car from which the granite has -been unloaded below, as the buckets of a well are drawn up and down. A -very serious accident occurred here, by the by, to a party of gentlemen, -among whom Mr. ---- was one. They had placed themselves in the empty car -at the bottom of the inclined plane, and were being slowly drawn up, as -the car loaded with granite descended on the other track. Just as they -were approaching the summit, the chain by which the car was drawn up -gave way, and it rolled backwards down the plane with fearful velocity, -and, starting off the track of the rail-road, pitched down into a ravine -full of rocks and blocks of granite, over which the road passes like a -bridge at the foot of the quarry. I believe one of them was killed, and -the others most terribly injured. The rough blocks of granite are -conveyed by horses, in the same rail-road cars, to smaller quarries -below, where they are wrought and shaped for their appointed uses. After -looking down from the summit of the granite rock upon the country which -lay smiling for many a sunny mile of flowery earth and sparkling sea -below, and wandering about the works, which are interesting and curious, -we remounted, and rode home over turfy wood-paths, through tangled -thickets of pine, fir, and cedar, whose warm fragrance was beginning to -be drawn forth by the morning sun. We disturbed in our path a poor -woodcock, who was sitting with her young: it was a pity to see the poor -thing flutter about her treasure, and go trailing a little way into the -brush-wood, to entice us away from them. Poor mother! what a tempest of -fear and agony was in your downy breast. I was very sorry we had -frightened her, poor creature. The country we rode through was extremely -pretty,--so, indeed, I think all the country round Boston is; the only -deficiency is water,--running water, I mean; for there are several -beautiful pools in this vicinity,--and, turn which way you will, the -silver shield of the sea shining against the horizon is a lovely feature -of the landscape. But there are no rivulets, no brooks, no sparkling -singing water-courses to refresh one's senses, as one rides across the -fields and through the woodlands. ---- called on us on Sunday last. He -is very enchanting: I wish it had been my good fortune to see him -oftener. One of the _great men_ of this country, he would have been a -first-rate man all the world over; and, like all first-rate people, -there is a simplicity and a total want of pretension about him that is -very delightful. He gave us a description of Niagara, which did what he -complained no description of it ever does,--conveyed to us an exact idea -of the natural position and circumstances which render these falls so -wonderful; whereas, most describers launch forth into vague and -untangible rhapsodies, which, after all, convey no express idea of any -thing but water in the abstract, he gave me, by his few simple words, a -more _real_ impression of the stupendous cataract than all that was ever -writ or spoken of waterfalls before, not excepting Byron's Terni. Last -Saturday, I dined at ----'s; where, for my greater happiness, I sat -between ---- and ----. I remember especially two bright things uttered; -the one by the one, the other by the other of these worthies. Mr. ----, -speaking of Knowles's Hunchback, said, "Well, after all, it's no great -matter. The author evidently understands stage effect and dramatic -situations, and so on; but as for the writing, it's by no means as good -as Shakspeare." I looked at the man in amazement, and suggested to him -that Shakspeare did not grow upon every bush. Presently, Mr. ---- began -a sentence by assuring me that he was a worshipper of Shakspeare; and -ended it by saying that Othello was disgusting, King Lear ludicrous, and -Romeo and Juliet childish nonsense: whereat I swallowed half a pint of -water, and nearly my tumbler too, and remained silent; for what could I -say? However, in spite of this, I owe ---- some gratitude, for he -brought ---- to see me the other day, whose face is more like that of a -good and intellectual man than almost any face I ever saw. The climate -of this place is dreadful! The night before last, the weather was so -warm, that, with my window open, I was obliged to take half the clothes -off my bed: last night was so cold, that, with window shut, and -additional covering, I could scarce get to sleep for the cold. This is -terrible, and forms a serious drawback upon the various attractions of -Boston; and to me it has many. The houses are like English houses: the -Common is like Constitution Hill; Beacon Street is like a bit of Park -Lane; and Summer Street, now that the chestnut trees are in bloom, is -perfectly beautiful. But for the climate, I should like to live in -Boston very much: my stay here has been delightful. It is in itself a -lovely place, and the country round it is charming. The people are -intellectual, and have been most abundantly good-natured and kind to me. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -I have finished ----'s sermons, which are most excellent. I think he is -one of the purest English prose-writers now living. I revere him -greatly; yet I do not think his denial of the Trinity is consistent with -the argument by which he maintains the truth of the miracles. I have -begun the Diary of an Ennuyee again: that book is most enchanting to -me,--merely to read the names of the places in which one's imagination -goes sunning itself for ever, is delightful. - - -_New York._ - -I have seen ----, who in his outward man bears but little token of his -inward greatness. Miss ---- had prepared me for an exterior over which -debility and sickness had triumphed now for some years; but, thought I, -there must be eyes and a brow; and there the spirit will surely be seen -upon its throne. But the eyes were small grey eyes, with an expression -which struck me at first as more akin to shrewdness of judgment, than -genius and the loftier qualities of the mind; and though the brow and -forehead were those of an intellectual person, they had neither the -expanse nor conformation I had imagined. The subject of our -conversation, though sufficiently natural for him to choose, addressing -one of my craft, did not appear to me to be a happy one for his own -powers,--perhaps I thought so because I differed from him. He talked -about the stage and acting in as unreal, and, in my opinion, mistaken, a -manner as possible. Had he expressed himself unknowingly about acting, -that would not have surprised me; for he can have no means of judging of -it, not having frequented the theatre for some years past: and those who -have the best means of forming critical judgments upon dramatic subjects -for the most part talk arrant nonsense about them. Lawrence was the only -man I ever heard speak about the stage who did so with understanding and -accuracy. I have heard the very cleverest men in England talk the -greatest stuff imaginable about actors and acting. But to return to -----: he said he had not thought much upon the subject, but that it -appeared to him feasible and highly desirable to take detached passages -and scenes from the finest dramatic writers, and have them well -declaimed in comparatively private assemblies,--this as a wholesome -substitute for the stage, of which he said he did not approve; and he -thought this the best method of obtaining the intellectual pleasure and -profit to be derived from fine dramatic works, without the illusion and -excitement belonging to theatrical exhibitions. My horror was so -unutterable at this proposition, and my amazement so extreme that he -should make it, that I believe my replies to it were all but incoherent. -What! take one of Shakspeare's plays bit by bit, break it piece-meal, in -order to make recitals of it!--destroy the marvellous unity of one of -his magnificent works, to make patches of declamation! If the stage is -evil, put it away, and put away with it those writings which properly -belong to it, and to nothing else; but do not take dramatic -compositions, things full of present action and emotion, to turn them -into recitations,--and mutilated ones too. Get other poems to declaim, -no matter how vivid or impassioned in their descriptions, so their form -be not dramatic. It is not to be supposed that the effect proper and -natural to a fine dramatic conception can be preserved when the language -is merely declaimed without the assistance of distance, dress, scenic -effects,--all the appertainings that the author has reckoned upon to -work out his idea. ---- mentioned the dagger soliloquy in Macbeth, as an -instance which would admit of being executed after his idea; saying, -that that, well read by any person in a drawing-room, would have all the -effect necessary or desirable. I remember hearing my aunt Siddons read -the scenes of the witches in Macbeth; and, while doing so, was obliged -to cover my eyes, that her velvet gown, modern cap, and spectacles might -not disturb the wild and sublime images that her magnificent voice and -recitation were conjuring up around me. If a man professes to tell you a -story, no matter what,--say the story of Romeo and Juliet,--and sits in -a modern drawing-room, in modern costume, it matters not,--_he_ is no -part of his story,--you do not connect him with his narrative,--his -appearance in no way clashes with your train of thought,--you are not -thinking of him, but of the people he is talking about. But if a man in -a modern drawing-room, and in modern costume, were to get up, and begin -reciting the balcony scene in Romeo and Juliet, I think the case would -be altered. However, never having heard such a proposal before, I had -not thought much about it, and only felt a little stunned at the idea of -Shakspeare's _histories_ being broken into fragments.[100] - - -_Thursday._ - -At a little after ten, ---- came to take us to see the savages. We drove -down, D----, my father, he, and I, to their hotel. We found, even at -that early hour, the portico, passage, and staircase, thronged with -gazers upon the same errand as ourselves. We made our way, at length, -into the presence-chamber; a little narrow dark room, with all the -windows shut, crowded with people, come to stare at their fellow wild -beasts. Upon a sofa sat Black Hawk, a diminutive shrivelled-looking old -man, with an appearance of much activity in his shrunk limbs, and a -calmness and dignified self-composure in his manner, which, in spite of -his want of size and comeliness, was very striking. Next to him sat a -young man, the adopted son of his brother the prophet, whose height and -breadth, and peculiar gravity of face and deportment, were those of a -man nearly forty, whereas he is little more than half that age. The -undisturbed seriousness of his countenance was explained to me by _their -keeper_, thus: he had, it seems, the day before, indulged rather too -freely in the delights of champagne, and was suffering just retribution -in the shape of a headach,--unjust retribution, I should say, for in his -savage experience no such sweet bright poison had ever before been -recorded, _I guess_, by the after pain it causes. Next to him sat Black -Hawk's son, a noble big young creature, like a fine Newfoundland puppy, -with a handsome scornful face, which yet exhibited more familiarity and -good-humoured amusement at what was going on than any of the rest. His -hair was powdered on the top, and round the ears, with a bright -vermilion-coloured powder, and knots of scarlet berries or beads, I -don't know which, hung like ear-rings on each side of his face. A string -of glass beads was tied round his naked throat; he was wrapped in a -large blanket, which completely concealed his form, except his legs and -feet, which were clothed in common leather shoes, and a species of -deerskin gaiter. He seemed much alive to what was going on, conversed -freely in his own language with his neighbour, and laughed once or twice -aloud, which rather surprised me, as I had heard so much of their -immovable gravity. The costume of the other young man was much the same, -except that his hair was not adorned. Black Hawk himself had on a blue -cloth surtout, scarlet leggings, a black silk neck-handkerchief, and -ear-rings. His appearance altogether was not unlike that of an old -French gentleman. Beside him, on a chair, sat one of his warriors, -wrapped in a blanket, with a cotton handkerchief whisped round his head. -At one of the windows apart from their companions, with less courtesy in -their demeanour, and a great deal of sullen savageness in their serious -aspects, sat the great warrior, and the prophet of the tribe--the latter -is Black Hawk's brother. I cannot express the feeling of commiseration -and disgust which the whole scene gave me. That men such as ourselves, -creatures with like feelings, like perceptions, should be brought, as -strange animals at a show, to be gazed at the livelong day by succeeding -shoals of gaping folk, struck me as totally unfitting. The cold dignity -of the old chief, and the malignant scowl of the prophet, expressed the -indecency and the irksomeness of such a situation. Then, to look at -those two young savages, with their fine muscular proportions, and think -of them cooped up the whole horrible day long, in this hot prison-house -full of people, made my heart ach. How they must loathe the sight of -these narrow walls, and the sound of these strange voices; how they must -sicken for their unmeasured range of wilderness! The gentleman who -seemed to have the charge of them pressed me to go up and shake hands -with them, as every body else in the room did; but I refused to do so -from literal compassion, and unwillingness to add to the wearisome toil -they were made to undergo. As we were departing, however, they -reiterated their entreaties that we would go up and shake hands with -them,--so I did. Black Hawk and the young men received our courtesy with -great complaisance; but when we went to the great warrior and the -prophet, they seemed exceedingly loath to receive our hands, the latter -particularly, who had, moreover, one of the very worst expressions I -think I ever saw upon a human countenance. I instinctively withdrew my -hand; but when my father offered his, the savage's face relaxed into a -smile, and he met his greeting readily. I wonder what pleased him about -my father's appearance, whether it was his large size or not. I had a -silver vinaigrette in my pouch, which I gave Black Hawk's son, by way of -keepsake: it will make a charming present for his squaw. - - -_Sunday, June 30th._ - -Rose at four, but, after looking at my watch, resumed my slumbers until -six, when I started up, much dismayed to find it so late, and presently, -having dressed as fast as ever I could, we set off for the steam-boat. -The morning was the brightest possible, the glorious waters that meet -before New York were all like rivers of light blazing with the reflected -radiance of the morning sky. We had no sooner set foot on board the -steam-boat, than a crowd of well-known faces surrounded us: I was -introduced to Mr. ----, and Mr. ---- the brother of our host at Cold -Spring. Mr. ---- came and stood by me for a considerable time after we -started. It is agreeable to talk to him, because he has known and seen -so much; traversed the world in every direction, and been the friend of -Byron and Shelley; a common mind, that had enjoyed the same -opportunities (that's impossible, by the by, no common mind would have -sought or found them), must have acquired something from intercourse -with such men, and such wide knowledge of things; but he is an uncommon -man, and it is very interesting to hear him talk of what he has seen, -and those he has known. - - * * * * * - -When we reached West Point, Mr. ---- was waiting with his boat to convey -us over to Cold Spring; and accordingly, bidding our various -acquaintance and companions farewell, we rowed over out of the course of -the river, into a sunny bay it forms among the hills, to our kinsman's -abode. - -Mr. ----'s place is a lovely little nook, situated on the summit of a -rise on the brink of the placid curve of water formed here by the river, -and which extends itself from the main current about a mile into the -mountains, ending in a wide marsh. The house, though upon a hill, is so -looked down upon, and locked in by the highlands around it, that it -seems to be at the bottom of a valley. From the verandah of his house, -through various frames which he has had cut, with exceeding good -judgment, among the plantations around the lawn, exquisite glimpses -appeared of the mountains, the little bay, the glorious Hudson itself, -with the graceful boats for ever walking its broad waters, their white -sails coming through the rocky passes where the river could not be -detected, as though they were sailing through the valleys of the earth. -The day was warm, but a fresh breeze stirred the boughs, and cooled the -air. My father and D---- seemed overcome with drowsiness, and lay in the -verandah with half-closed eyes, peeping at the dream-like scene around -them. I was not inclined to rest; and Mr. ---- having promised to show -me some falls at a short distance from the house, he, his brother, and I -set forth thither. We passed through the iron-works: 'twas Sunday, and -every thing, except a bright water-course, laughing and singing as it -ran, was still. They took me over the works; showed me the iron frames -of large mill-wheels, the machinery and process of boring the cannon, -the model of an iron forcing-pump, the casting-houses, and all the -wonders of their manufactory. All mechanical science is very interesting -to me, when I have an opportunity of seeing the detail of it, and -comprehending, by illustrations presented to my eyes, the technical -terms used by those conversing with me. We left these dark abodes, and -their smouldering fires, and strange powerful-looking instruments, and, -taking a path at the foot of the mountains, skirted the marsh for some -time, and then struck into the woods, ascending a tremendous stony path, -at the top of which we threw ourselves down to pant, and looked below, -through a narrow rent in the curtain of leaves around us, on the river, -and rocks, and mountains, bright with the noonday splendour of the -unclouded sky. After resting here a few moments, we arose, and climbed -again, through the woods, across a sweet clover-field, to the brow of -the hill where stands the highland school, a cheerful-looking cottage, -with the mountain tops all round, the blessed sky above, and the -downward sloping woods, and lake-like river below. Passing through the -ground surrounding it, we joined a road skirting a deep ravine, from -the bottom of which the waters called to me. I was wild to go down, but -my companions would not let me: it was in vain that I strained over the -brink, the trees were so thickly woven together, and the hollow so deep, -that I could see nothing but dark boughs, except every now and then, as -the wind stirred them, the white glimmer of the leaping foam, as it -sprang away with a shout that made my heart dance. We followed the path, -which began to decline; and presently a silver thread of gushing water -ran like a frightened child across our way, and flung itself down into -the glen. At length we reached the brown golden-looking stream. Mr. ---- -was exhorting us to take an upper path, which, he said, would bring us -to the foot of the fall; but I was not to be seduced away from the side -of the rivulet, and insisted upon crossing it then and there, through -the water, over moss-capped stones, across fallen trees, which, struck -by the lightning, or undermined by the cold-kissing waters, had choked -up the brook with their leafy bridges. So striving on, as best we might, -after wading through the stream two or three times, we reached the end -and aim of our journey, the waterfall. We stood on the brink of a pool, -about forty feet across, and varying in depth from three to seven or -eight feet: it was perfectly circular, and except on the south, where -the waters take their path down the glen, closed round with a wall of -rock about thirty feet high, in whose crevices trees with their rifted -roots hung fearlessly, clothing the grey stone with a soft curtain of -vivid green. Immediately opposite the brook, and at the north of the -pool, the water came tumbling over this rocky wall in three distinct -streams, which, striking the projecting ledges of iron-looking stone, at -different angles, met within eight or ten feet of the pool, and fell in -a mingled sheet of foam. The water broke over the rocks like a shower of -splintered light; the spray sprang up in the sunlight, and fell again -all glittering into the dark basin below, that gleamed like a magic -jewel set in the mossy earth. On the edge of the rocks, beside the -waterfall, a tree stood out among its greenly-mantled fellows, bare, -broken, and scathed to the very roots with lightning. Its upper half had -fallen aslant one branch of the waterfall, and lay black and dripping -over the pure white torrent; half falling down its course, half stayed -by some rocky ledges on which it rested. As I gazed up in perfect -ecstasy, an uncontrollable desire seized me to clamber up the rocks by -the side of the fall, and so reach the top of it. My companions laughed -incredulously as I expressed my determination to do so; but followed -where I led, until they became well assured that I was in earnest. -Remonstrance, and representation of impossibility, having been tried in -vain, Mr. ---- prepared to guide me, and Mr. ---- with my bag, parasol, -and bonnet in charge, returned to the edge of the pool to watch our -progress. Away we went over the ledges of the rocks, with nothing but -damp leaves, and slippery roots of trees, for footing. At one moment, -the slight covering of mould on which I had placed my foot crumbled from -beneath it, and I swung over the water by a young sapling which upheld -me well, and by which I recovered footing and balance. We had now -reached the immediate side of the waterfall, and my guide began -ascending the slippery slanting rocks down which it fell. I followed: in -an instant I was soaked through with the spray, my feet slipped, I had -no hold, he was up above me, the pool far below. With my head bowed -against the foam and water, I was feeling where next to tread, when a -bit of rock, that my companion had thought firm, broke beneath his foot, -and came falling down beside me into the stream. I paused, for I was -frightened: I looked up for a moment, but was blinded by the water, and -could not see where my guide was; I looked down the slanting ledge we -had climbed, over which the white water was churning angrily: "Shall I -come down again?" I cried to Mr. ----, who was anxiously looking up at -our perilous path. "Give me your hand," shouted his brother, above me. I -lifted my head, and turned towards him, and a dazzling curtain of spray -and foam fell over my face. "I cannot see you," I replied; "I cannot go -on; I do not know what to do." "Give me your hand!" he exclaimed again; -and I, planting one foot upon a ledge of rock so high as to lift me off -the other, held up my arm to him: but my limbs were so strained from his -height above me, that I had no power to spring or move, either up or -down. However, I felt my presence of mind going: I knew that to go down -was impossible, except headlong; the ascent must therefore be persevered -in. "Are you steady, quite, quite steady?" I enquired; he replied, -"Yes;" and holding out his hand, I locked mine in it, and bade him draw -me up. But he had not calculated upon my weight; my slight appearance -had deceived him; and as I bore upon his arm, we both of us slipped. I -turned as sick as death; but only cried out, "Recover yourself, recover -yourself, I am safe;" which I was, upon a rocky rim about three inches -wide, with my arm resting on the falling stump of the blasted tree. He -did recover his balance; and, again holding out his hand, drew me up -beside where he was sitting, on the edge of the rocks, in the water. We -pledged each other in the clear stream; and, standing on the top of our -hardly-gained eminence, in the midst of the rushing brook I wrang my -handkerchief triumphantly at Mr. ----; which was rather a comical -consideration, as I was literally dripping from head to foot. No Naiad -ever looked so thoroughly watery, or could have taken more delight in a -ducking. As soon as he saw us safe, he scrambled up through the woods to -the road; and we doing the same, we presently all met on the dusty -highway, where we congratulated each other on our perseverance and -success, and laughed very exceedingly at my soaked situation. We -determined not to pass through the highland school-ground, but kept the -main road for the advantage of sun and wind, the combined influences of -which presently dried my frock and handkerchief. When I reached home, -ran up stairs, and dressed myself for dinner, which we sat down to at -about four. After dinner, came up to my room and slept very profoundly, -until summoned to coffee, which we drank in the verandah. At about eight -o'clock, the sun had left the sky; but his warm mantle lay over the -western clouds, and hung upon the rocks and woody mountain sides. A -gentle breeze was stirring the trees round where we sat; and through the -thick branches of a chestnut tree, as they waved to and fro, the silver -disk of the full moon looked placidly down upon us. We set out strolling -through the woods: leisurely as foot could fall, we took our way through -the twilight paths; and when we reached the Roman Catholic chapel our -host is building by the river side, the silent thoughtful mountains were -wrapped in deep shadows, and the broad waters shone like a sheet of -silver in the moonlight. We sat down on the cannon lying on the pebbly -shore, and Mr. ---- ran off to order the boat, which presently came -stealing round over the shining waters. We got in, ---- rowing, and they -put me at the helm: but, owing to Mr. ----'s misdirections, who seemed -extremely amused at my awkwardness, and took delight in bothering poor -----, by making me steer all awry, we made but little progress, and that -rather crab-wise; backing, and sideling, and turning, as though the poor -boat had been a politician. - - * * * * * - -Full of my own contemplations, I kept steering round and round, and so -we wandered, as purposeless as the night air over the smooth waters, and -beneath the shadows of the solemn hills, till near eleven o'clock, when -we made for shore, and slowly turned home. We sat for a length of time -under the verandah: the gentlemen were discussing the planetary system, -as accepted in the civilised world; and Mr. ---- maintained, with -sufficient plausibility, that we knew nothing at all about it, in spite -of Newton: for that, though his theories were borne out by all -observation, it did not follow, therefore, that another theory equally -probable might not exist; that because he had found out one way of -accounting for the construction and motion of the heavenly bodies, there -was no other possible way in which they were constructed and impelled; -because one means is sufficient, he argued, it does not thence follow, -that 'tis the only sufficient means. Mr. ---- maintained that there was, -at least, strong presumption in favour of Newton's systems; because they -are borne out by our observation of results, and also because hitherto -no other better method of accounting for what we perceive has been -discovered. And so they went on, the end of all being, to my mind, as -usual, utter unsatisfactoriness; and, as the mosquitoes were stinging -me, I left them to their discussions, and came to bed. - - -_Monday, July 1st._ - -Major ---- and Mr. ---- came over from West Point: they were going to -prove some cannon that had not yet been fired; and some time passed in -the various preparations for so doing. At length, we were summoned down -to the water-side, to see the success of the experiment. The cannon lay -obliquely one behind the other, at intervals of about six yards, along -the curve line of the little bay; their muzzles pointed to the high -gravelly bank into which they fired. The guns were double-loaded, with -very heavy charges; and as soon as we were safely placed, so as to see -and hear, they were fired. The sound was glorious: the first heavy peal, -and then echo after echo, as they _rimbombavano_ among the answering -hills, who growled aloud at the stern voice waking their still and -noonday's deep repose. I pushed out in the boat, from shore, to see the -thick curtain of smoke as it rolled its silver, and brassy, and black -volumes over the woody mountain-sides; parting in jagged rents as it -rose; through which the vivid green, and blessed sky, smiled in their -peaceful loneliness. They ended in discharging all the cannon at once; -which made a most glorious row, and kept the mountains grumbling with -its echoes for some minutes after the discharge. All the pieces were -sound; which was highly satisfactory, as upon each one that flaws in the -firing Mr. ---- loses the cost of the piece. Just as the smoke cleared -off from the river, we saw the boat making to shore; and, presently, Mr. -----, his wife and children, and a young Mr. ----, landed. After -introductions, and one or two questions, Mrs. ---- went up to her -cottage to put things in order there; Mr. ---- betook himself to -Froissart and the shade; Mr. ---- to his business; and D----, my father, -Mr. ---- and myself, set forth to the fountain in the glen. The weather -was intensely hot; the thermometer above ninety in the shade; it was -about half-past twelve; and we toiled and gasped on like so many Indians -up the steep path. The walk had been so laborious, that neither D---- -nor my father were willing, at first, to admit that the object was a -sufficient one. We sat for some time by the dark shady pool; and they, -by degrees, recovered their breath and complacency, and began to -perceive how beautiful the place really was. My father said the -waterfall looked like a fine lace veil torn by the rocks; which pleased -me, because it did look like that. Mr. ---- proposed an admirable plan, -that of walking down the water's side, and taking a boat upon the -Hudson; and so avoiding the long hot walk home. We called at the -highland school; where the worthy man who keeps it received us with -infinite civility, put us into a delicious cool room, and gave us some -white hermitage and water to drink, which did us all manner of -good.[101] We then descended to the river: after some delay and -difficulty, got a boat and rowed home. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -LINES. - - Here be the free gifts of the morning for thee; - Dog-roses, with their thorns all strung with pearls, - And a large round diamond in each rosy cup: - Their leaves are the colour of Aurora's cheeks. - Here is a pale white flower, without a name, - At least to me, who am a stranger here: - It has a delicate almond smell, and grew - Among thick boughs, and leaves that guarded it. - Poor thing! I took it from its shelter for thee. - Here be some lilac heads of clover, sweet - As the breath of love: they lay amongst the hay - In a new-mown meadow, glittering in the sun. - Here are the leaves of the wild vine, that shine - Like glass without, and underneath are white - And soft as a swan's breast. There is an oak branch; - I gather'd it, because it grows at home, - And in this strange land look'd as sad and loving - As a friend's face: when it is wither'd, keep it. - They are all heavy with the tears of the night, - Who weeps, because she may not meet the sun; - And when he comes down from the mountain tops, - Parting the forests with his hands of fire, - He drinks her weeping, kissing all the flowers - With passionate love, which makes them look so blushing. - - -_Tuesday, 2d._ - -Packed up my bag, took a cup of tea, went and gathered some flowers, and -gave the poor lamb some heads of clover; bade a very unwilling farewell -to the pretty place, and rowed over to West Point, where Mr. ---- was -waiting for us. We breakfasted at ten, and went down to meet the boat. -Young Mr. ---- came over to see us off, and brought me some lovely fresh -flowers. Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- were both at the embarking-post. When the -boat came up, the rush to and from it was, without exception, the most -frightful thing I ever saw. The ----s were landing; and I just spoke to -her, as she was borne past by the throng. Safely on board, I again found -myself surrounded by familiar faces: I took out my work, and Mr. ---- -sat down by us. As a nuisance, which all unsought-for companionship is, -he is quite the most endurable possible; for he has seen such things, -and known such people, that it is greatly worth while to listen to him. -Every thing he says of Byron and Shelley confirms my own impression of -them. The scenery of the Hudson, immediately beyond West Point, loses -much of its sublimity, though no beauty. The river widens, and the -rugged summits of the highlands melt gradually into a softer and more -undulating outline. The richness, and swelling, and falling of the land -reminded me occasionally of England. The yellow grain was giving -diversity and warmth to the green landscape; and the shadowy woods -fencing the corn-fields threw over the whole picture a sheltering -peaceful charm. On the left, we presently began to see the blue outline -of the Catskill mountains, towering into the hot sky, and looking most -blessedly cool and dark amid the fervid glowing of the noonday world. -Mrs. ---- came on board at one of the stopping places. I was quite glad -to see her sweet face, and hear her gentle voice again. Mr. ---- was -greatly smitten with her calm look of repose, and lulling speech, and -took to her vehemently. She told me long stories, like fairy tales, of -caverns lately discovered in the bosom of these mountains; of pits black -and fathomless; of subterranean lakes in gloomy chambers of the earth; -and tumbling waters, which fall down in the dark, where men heard, but -none had dared to go. How I should like to go there! Oh, who will lead -me into the secret parts of the earth; who will guide me to the deep -hiding-places where spirits are--where the air of this upper world is -not breathed, and its sounds are unknown--where the light of the sun is -unseen, and the voice of human creatures unheard? how I should like to -go there! At about half-past three in the afternoon, the sky became -suddenly and thickly overcast: the awning which sheltered the upper deck -was withdrawn, and every preparation made for a storm. The pale -angry-looking clouds lay heaped like chalk upon a leaden sky; and -presently one red lightning dipped down into the woods like a fiery -snake falling from the heavens. At the same time, a furious gust of wind -and torrent of rain rushed down the mountain side. We scuttled down to -the lower deck as fast as ever we could; but the storm met us at the -bottom of the stairs, and in an instant I was drenched. Chairs, tables, -every thing was overturned by the gust; and the boat was running with -water in every direction. It thundered and lightened a little; but the -noise of the engine was such, that we scarce heard the storm. I stood by -the door of the furnace, and dried leisurely, talking the while to Mr. -----, who is sun-burnt enough to warm one through with a look. During -our progress, one of the wheels (or paddles, as they are properly -called) took it into its head to knock its case to pieces, and banged -the boards about in a strange way. Accident the second:--one of the men, -a black, who was employed in tending the fire, got so dreadfully heated -with the intense furnace, that he rushed out of the engine-room, and -swallowed two or three draughts of cold water. The effect was -instantaneous: he fell down in violent internal spasms, and died, poor -wretch! before we arrived at Albany. We reached that town at about -half-past five in the afternoon, and went to a house the ----s -recommended to us. At about seven, they gave us dinner; and immediately -after I came up to my own room. I was so exhausted with fatigue, and a -violent cold and cough, that I literally fell down on the floor, and -slept till dark. As we came up the river, we passed Dr. ----'s place, -Hyde Park, which has the reputation of being the best-kept private -estate in America: the situation of the house, on the edge of a ridge, -appeared to me, from the river, rather too much exposed. - - -_Saturday, 6th._ - -My father had settled to go to the Cohoes Falls. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -When we were in the steam-boat, going up to Troy,[102] ---- put a -letter into my hands, which he told me was written by the mother of -Allegra, Byron's child. The letter was remarkable only for more -straightforwardness and conciseness than is usual in women's letters. I -do not know whether ---- gave it me to read on that account alone, or -because it contained allusions to wild and interesting adventures of his -own: perhaps there was a mingling of motives. There never was, by the -by, a _homogeneous_ motive, as Brewster would say, in the human breast. -We reached Troy in about twenty minutes, and walked up into the town to -procure some species of vehicle for our progress to the falls. There was -none ready; and while one was being procured, a man, who was standing -near us, very civilly invited us to come into his shop and sit down, -which we did very readily. The situation of the warehouses, on the side -near the river, of the main street of Troy, is exceedingly pretty. They -are, for the most part, large long rooms, opening to the street at the -one end, and on the other looking down, from a considerable height, upon -the Hudson. The shop we were in was a china-store; and the nice cold -crockery-ware made one cool to look at it: the weather was roasting. Mr. ----- left us to gather information, and kindly brought me back word that -the population of Troy was five hundred, _or_ five thousand, I really -forget which; and, for my journal, it don't much matter; and that the -storekeeper assured him the Trojans were an exceedingly refined and -literary set of folks; and that the society, in point of these two -advantages, was no whit behind Boston: there's for Boston!--We obtained -a coach, and crossed a ferry, such as I had never seen before, worked by -horses. Poor wretches! they reminded me of ----'s steeds, Martyre et -Souffrance. Mr. ---- observed that they led the life of the majority; -and so they do,--labour and suffering that custom renders endurable, and -that ends by grinding down every faculty of mind or soul: we're a -blessed pack of drudges, and deserve to be just what we are. After -crossing the ferry, we drove about five miles through some gentle -smiling lands, that made one feel very charitable. The Cohoes is, I -believe, a Dutch name for a hill just above a turn in the Mohawk, where, -after some shallow, rapid, hasty running over a rocky bed, the river -flings itself down over a broad barrier, between thirty and forty feet -high, with the most delightful gushing sound in the world. The foam -looked very nice, and soft, and thick, and cold: I longed to be in the -middle of it. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After wandering about for some time, we sat ourselves down on a high -grassy knoll just above the falls. - - * * * * * - -We returned in time, as we flattered ourselves, to meet the steam-boat -which leaves Troy for Albany at four; but, just as we were crossing the -ferry, the steamer ran past us, leaving us, with eyes and mouths wide -open, very much bothered as to how we were to get down to Albany. D---- -proposed a row-boat, and the sense of the company seemed to agree -thereto; but, upon driving to the inn where we hired our carriage, and -enquiring for such a conveyance, we were assured that there was no such -thing to be had: whereupon my father, good easy man! believed there was -not, and got into the coach again. Mr. ----, however, had absconded, and -remained gone so long, that I began to think he had, perhaps, started to -swim down the river; when he presently appeared, informing us that he -had gotten a boat for us. We jumped readily out of the coach; and, -though my father had actually made a bargain for the hire of it, to -convey us to Albany, with the innkeeper, and, moreover, given him the -money, the righteous man refunded the dollars; which, Falstaff knows, is -a displeasing thing to do: "I hate that paying back!" Our row back was -delightful: the evening was calm and lovely beyond description; the sun -had lost his fierceness, and the warm air clasped the fresh woods -tenderly; the waters were unbroken as a mirror; the very spirit of love -and peace possessed the world: the effect of all which was to send me -into a very sound sleep. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -We reached Albany in very good time for dinner. Mr. ---- dined with us: -what a savage he is, in some respects! He's a curious being: a -description of him would puzzle any one who had never seen him. A man -with the proportions of a giant for strength and agility; taller, -straighter, and broader than most men; yet with the most listless -indolent carelessness of gait, and an uncertain wandering way of -dropping his feet to the ground, as if he didn't know where he was -going, and didn't much wish to go any where. His face is as dark as a -Moor's; with a wild strange look about the eyes and forehead, and a -mark like a scar upon his cheek: his whole appearance giving one an idea -of toil, hardship, peril, and wild adventure. The expression of his -mouth is remarkably mild and sweet, and his voice is extremely low and -gentle. His hands are as brown as a labourer's: he never profanes them -with gloves, but wears two strange magical-looking rings: one of them, -which he showed me, is made of elephant's hair. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Occasionally, in his horror of one class of prejudices, he embraces the -opposite ones: perhaps the extreme of any evil, in this world of -imperfect means, can only be effectually resisted by its reverse -extreme. - - -_Monday, 8th._ - -After breakfast, went to rehearsal: Mr. ---- came with us. The actors -were one and all reading their parts: the lady who played Charlotte was -the only exception--she was perfect. As I sat on the stage, between my -scenes, a fat, good-tempered, rosy, bead-eyed, wet-haired, shining-faced -looking man accosted me; and, having ascertained that I was myself, -proceeded to accuse me of having, in Mrs. Haller, pronounced the word -"industry" with the accent on the middle syllable, as "in_dus_try;" -adding, that he had already quoted my authority to several people for -the emphasis, and begging to know my "exquisite reason" therefor. It was -in vain that I urged that it must have been a mistake if I said so; that -I never meant to say so, if I did say so; that if I did say so, I was -very wrong to say so; that I was very sorry for having said so; that I -never would say so again. Between each of my humblest apologies my -accuser merely replied, "But you _did_ say in_dus_try," with an -inflexible pertinacity of condemnation, which was not a whit softened by -my sincere confessions. Presently the worthy creature, adverting to the -letter in the Mirror about General Jackson, begged that as I had passed -the fourth of July, that glorious anniversary, in Albany, I would -illustrate its celebration by some remarks in the style of that -admirable composition. Great was the fat man's surprise, and evident his -contempt for me, when I disclaimed the authorship of that document. -Greater still waxed both, when I assured him that on the fourth of July -I positively walked out of the town, to avoid the noise in it. After -this, he remained gazing at me in silent amazement; and, as soon as he -had sufficiently recovered from it to move, he took up his hat, and -briefly wished me "good morning." Mr. ---- told me the man was a -newspaper-editor; but I think he looked too fat, and fresh, and -good-tempered for that. When we returned home, sat down to write -journal. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The play was the Gamester: the house was very full. Mr. ---- did not -know one syllable of his part, and bothered me utterly. At the end of -the play, they called for my father, and civilly desired we would act -the Hunchback; as, however, we had not the dresses for it with us, he -declined, but promised we would return hereafter. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - -_Tuesday, 9th._ - -After breakfast, the day being extremely fine, Mr. ---- urged us to go -out, and take a walk; so forth we set, my father and I leading the way, -and D---- and Mr. ---- following. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -We crossed the river, and, following the first road like a flock of -geese errant, arrived at the top of a delightful breezy knoll, opposite -a tiny waterfall, the rocks and basin of which were picturesque; but the -water had been turned off to turn a mill. The hill where we stood -commanded a beautiful view of the Hudson, Albany, and the shores -stretching away into sunny indistinctness. My father, and D----, and Mr. -----, sat down under some oak trees: I ran off to explore the stream. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -After looking about in every direction, I returned to my friends: we -strolled away through the woods and along the high road, with the sweet -smell of mellow hay keeping us company the while. We halted at an -orchard corner, near a pleasant-looking farm, where we all agreed we -should like to live. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Mr. ---- killed us with laughing with an account he gave us of some of -Byron's sayings and doings, which were just as whimsical and eccentric -as unamiable, but very funny. To-morrow we start for Utica: Mr. ----- comes with us: I am glad of it--I like him. - - -_Wednesday, 10th._ - -Just as we were getting into the railroad coach for Schenectady, a -parcel was put into my hand: it was a letter from ----, and Pellico's -"Mie Prigioni:" I was glad of it. At Schenectady we dined. By the by, I -must not forget to mention the civility we met with from the people who -kept the house. There have been so many instances given of the -discomfort and discourteousness which travellers encounter in America, -that it is but justice to record the reverse when one meets with it. For -my own part, with very few exceptions, I have hitherto met with nothing -but civility and attention of every description. We have almost always -commanded private sitting, and single sleeping, rooms; have had our -meals served in tolerable comfort and decency; and even on board the -steam-boats, where every thing is done by shoal, I have found that, in -spite of being an inveterate dawdle, and never ready at any of the -bell-ringings, I have always had a place reserved for me, and enough to -eat without fighting for it. But to return to our Schenectady hosts. The -house was very full; and, while waiting for the canal boat, to avoid the -gaping crowds with which all the rooms were filled, D---- and I walked -out into the verandah, when a pretty lassie, the daughter, I conclude, -of the house, invited us into a very nice private parlour, belonging to -the family, where I found a fine piano, books, music, and all -civilisation as well as civility. We proceeded by canal to Utica, which -distance we performed in a day and a night, starting at two from -Schenectady, and reaching Utica the next day at about noon. I like -travelling by the canal boats very much. Ours was not crowded; and the -country through which we passed being delightful, the placid moderate -gliding through it, at about four miles and a half an hour, seemed to me -infinitely preferable to the noise of wheels, the rumble of a coach, and -the jerking of bad roads, for the gain of a mile an hour. The only -nuisances are the bridges over the canal, which are so very low, that -one is obliged to prostrate one's self on the deck of the boat, to -avoid being scraped off it; and this humiliation occurs, upon an -average, once every quarter of an hour. Mr. ---- read Don Quixote to us: -he reads very peculiarly; slowly, and with very marked emphasis. He has -a strong feeling of humour, as well as of poetry: in fact, they belong -to each other; for humour is but fancy laughing, and poetry but fancy -sad. The valley of the Mohawk, through which we crept the whole -sunshining day, is beautiful from beginning to end; fertile, soft, rich, -and occasionally approaching sublimity and grandeur in its rocks and -hanging woods. We had a lovely day, and a soft blessed sunset, which, -just as we came to a point where the canal crosses the river, and where -the curved and wooded shores on either side recede, leaving a broad -smooth basin, threw one of the most exquisite effects of light and -colour I ever remember to have seen over the water and through the sky. -The sun had scarce been down ten minutes from the horizon, when the deck -was perfectly wet with the heaviest dew possible, which drove us down to -the cabin. Here I fell fast asleep, till awakened by the cabin girl's -putting her arms affectionately round me, and telling me that I might -come and have the first choice of a berth for the night, in the horrible -hen-coop allotted to the female passengers. I was too sleepy to -acknowledge or avail myself of the courtesy; but the girl's manner was -singularly gentle and kind. We sat in the men's cabin until they began -making preparations for bed, and then withdrew into a room about twelve -feet square, where a whole tribe of women were getting to their beds. -Some half undressed, some brushing, some curling, some washing, some -already asleep in their narrow cribs, but all within a quarter of an -inch of each other: it made one shudder. As I stood cowering in a -corner, half asleep, half crying, the cabin girl came to me again, and -entreated me to let her make a bed for me. However, upon my refusing to -undress before so much good company, or lie down in such narrow -neighbourhood, she put D---- and myself in a small closet, where were -four empty berths, where I presently fell fast asleep, where she -established herself for the night, and where D----, wrapped up in a -shawl, sat till morning under the half-open hatchway, breathing damp -starlight. - - -_Thursday, 11th._ - -D----'s exclamations woke me in the morning: the day was breaking -brightly, and the dewy earth was beginning to smile in the red dawn, -when we approached Little Falls, a place where the placid gentle -character of the Mohawk becomes wild and romantic, and beautifully -picturesque. The canal is for some space cut through the solid rock, and -the banks, high and bold, were crowned with tangled woods, and gemmed -with wild flowers, and the delicate vivid tufts of fern. It was -exceedingly beautiful; and though I believe I missed some part of the -scenery immediately surrounding Little Falls, the approach to it, which -is of the same nature, enchanted me extremely. When we arrived at Utica, -I gave the nice cabin-girl my silver needle-case: her tenderness and -care of me the night before made it impossible for me to offer her -money. She took my gift, and, throwing her arms round my neck, kissed me -very fervently for it. I was struck with her manner, which had appeared -to me, in discharge of her common duties, reserved, and rather -dignified. This exhibition of feeling surprised me therefore; and -together with her dark eyes, hair, and complexion, made me think she -must have foreign blood in her veins. I asked her, but she said no: -American by birth, English by descent: certainly she had neither the -face nor bearing of the one or the other. She was a very singular and -striking looking person. As for Mr. ----, he fell in love with her -forthwith, and, I think, had half a mind to settle on the Mohawk, and -make her his fellow farmer. At Utica we dined; and after dinner I slept -profoundly. The gentlemen, I believe, went out to view the town, which -twenty years ago _was not_, and now is a flourishing place, with -fine-looking shops, two or three hotels, good broad streets, and a body -of lawyers, who had a supper at the house where we were staying, and -kept the night awake with champagne, shouting, toasts, and clapping of -hands: so much for the strides of civilisation through the savage lands -of this new world. The house was full, and we could not get a room to -ourselves; so we sat in a corner of the large dining-room. Passed the -evening in writing journal. Mr. ---- showed me his of Sunday last. - - -_Friday, 12th._ - -We all breakfasted early together, and immediately after breakfast got -into an open carriage and set off for Trenton. D---- and my father sat -beside each other, and I opposite them; Mr. ---- on the box; and so we -progressed. The day was bright and breezy: the country was all smiling -round us in rich beauty; the ripening sheets of waving grain; the -sloping fields, with here and there the grey tomb-stone of a forest -tree; the vivid thickets bounding the pale harvest plots; the -silvery-looking fences, with their irregular lines relieved against the -dark woods; the clear sky above; all was lovely. About seven miles from -Utica, we stopped to water the horses at a lonely road-side house: we -alighted, and without ceremony strolled into the garden,--a mere -wilderness of overgrown sweet briar, faint breathing dog-roses, and -flaunting red poppies, overshadowed by some orchard trees, from which we -stole sundry half-ripe cherries. The place was desolate, I believe; yet -we lingered in it, and did not think it so. We got into the carriage -again: the remaining eight miles of our journey were as beautiful and as -bad as the preceding ones had been. I thought of our dark drive back -through these miry and uneven ways. At last we reached the house at -which visiters to the Falls put up; a large comfortable dwelling enough, -kept by a couple of nice young people, who live in this solitude all the -year round, and maintain themselves and a beautiful big baby by the -profits they derive from the pilgrims to Trenton. We ordered dinner, and -set forth to the Falls, with our host for guide. We crossed a small wood -immediately adjoining the house, and, descending several flights of -steps connected by paths in the rocky bank, we presently stood on the -brink of the channel, where the water was boiling along, deep, and -black, and passing away like time. We followed along the rocky edge: the -path is not more than a foot wide, and is worn into all manner of -unevenness and cavities, and slippery with the eternal falling of the -spray. ---- walked before me: we dared not turn our heads, for fear of -tumbling into the black whirlpool below. We walked on steadily, warning -each other at every step, and presently we arrived at the first fall, -where the rest of our party were halting. I can't describe it: I don't -know either its height or width; I only know it was extremely beautiful, -and came pouring down like a great rolling heap of amber. The rocks -around are high to the heavens, scooped, and singularly regular; and the -sides of the torrent are every now and then paved with large smooth -layers of rock, as even and regular in their proportions as if the -fairies had done the work. After standing before the tumbling mass of -water for a length of time, we climbed to the brink above, and went on. -Mr. ---- flung himself down under a roof of rock by the waterfall. My -father, D----, and the guide, went on out of sight, and ---- and I -loitered by the rapid waters, flinging light branches and flowers upon -the blood-coloured torrent, that whirled, and dragged, and tossed them -down to the plunge beneath. When we came to the beautiful circular fall, -we crept down to a narrow ridge, and sat with our feet hanging over the -black caldron, just opposite a vivid rainbow that was clasping the -waterfall. We sat here till I began to grow dizzy with the sound and -motion of the churning darkness beneath us, and begged to move, which we -did very cautiously. I was in an agony lest we should slip from the -narrow dripping ledges along which we crawled. We wandered on, and -stopped again at another fall, upon a rocky shelf overhanging the -torrent, beside the blasted and prostrate trunk of a large tree. I was -tired with walking, and ---- was lifting me up to seat me on the fallen -tree, when we saw Mr. ---- coming slowly towards us. He stopped and -spoke to us, and presently passed on; we remained behind, talking, and -dipping our hands into the fresh water. At length we rejoined the whole -party, sitting by a narrow channel, where the water looked like ink. -Beyond this our guide said it was impossible to go: I was for -ascertaining this by myself, but my father forbade me to attempt the -passage further. I was thirsty; and the guide having given me a -beautiful strawberry and a pale blue-bell, that he had found, like a -couple of jewels in some dark crevice of the rocks, I devoured the one, -and then going down to the black water's edge, we dipped the fairy cup -in, and drank the cold clear water, with which abundant draught I -relieved my father's thirst also.[103] Around the place where we were -resting, the rocks rose like circular walls up to the very sky. From -their overhanging edges, tiny threads of water fell upon the rocky -pavement beneath, with a silver glancing, and a clear plashing tone, -that sounded even amid the hoarse talking of the dark waters below. In -some mould among these cliffs, at their very highest edge, a tree had -struck its roots, and, growing upside down, stretched its drooping green -arms to the hurrying stream below, that would not tarry. We had walked, -I suppose, a mile and a half along the water's side, and in this -distance its course is broken by six beautiful cataracts. The variety of -the colour of the water, occasioned by the various depths of its -channel, and the different tints of the rocks over which it flows, is -singular. Where the river expands, its rapid broken waves were of the -darkest red-brown, like coffee; or rather, indeed, redder than that, -like a deep blood colour: reaching the walls of rock, over which they -fall into a lower bed, they became pouring masses of amber and diamonds, -or soft thick heaps of whitest foam; and then again, in the deep narrow -channels which received their headlong leaping, all was black as -blackest night, and the waters were sucked away under the hollow rocks -in inky eddies, that made me think of drowning with double horror. The -several falls are very various in their height and forms, but they are -all beautiful, most beautiful; not a place to visit for a day, but to -live the summer away in. - - * * * * * - -When we were all rested, we rose to retrace our steps: our guide was a -man of some cultivation, and of much natural refinement, with a strong -feeling of the exquisite beauty of the scenes in which he was living. -These falls are upon his own land, belong to him, and he pointed out to -us a spot beside the torrent where, he said, he had read all Byron's -works: this pleased me. Returning, I thought the path even more -difficult than it was before: there is a chain fastened along the rock -where it narrows, for the security of persons walking: this has been put -up since the lamentable loss of a young girl, who, following her party -along this slippery path, missed her footing, and was swept into a -foaming whirlpool, whence nothing could ever emerge. Our guide told us -of another terrible accident, which happened not long before we were -there. A young lady and her lover were going along the water side, and, -in order to retain hold of her hand, he walked upon a narrow ridge, -where he could hardly balance himself: the girl said, "Oh, if you walk -there, I shall let you go:" she did so, and in the same instant he -slipped from the rock and was dragged away to that dark death.[104] - -The chain upon the rock was about as high as my shoulder; but when the -river is swollen, it constantly rises above the chain: at which time, it -is scarce possible to go any distance along its banks. This had been the -case a short time before we were there. We returned to the house, and -dined. After dinner, had a gossip with Mrs. ----, and a romp with her -beautiful baby. I strolled into the garden: it was in disorder, and -looked like a wilderness; but I saw some roses drooping their full -bosoms to the earth, and I went to fetch them. Our host came with me: he -said he had but little leisure to cultivate his garden, and could not -well afford to have it kept in better order; that it supplied them with -nearly all they required; and that, with his other occupations, he had -hardly time to make it more than useful. I questioned him about the -number of visiters who came to the falls. He said in summer there was a -constant succession of them; but that in winter no one came there. Upon -my expressing some surprise that people did not come, and remain for -some weeks at least, in so beautiful a place, he told me that the -generality of visiters were quite satisfied with an hour's stroll by the -water; and that some had arrived at his door, alighted from their -carriage, dined, sauntered round the house, and, _without even going -down to the river_, returned to Utica quite satisfied with having been -at Trenton. I was amazed. But the utter insensibility of the generality -of Americans to the beauty and sublimity of nature is nothing short of -amazing; and in this respect they literally appear to me to want a -sense. I have been filled with astonishment and perplexity at the total -indifference with which they behold scenes of grandeur and loveliness, -that any creature, with half a soul, would gaze at with feelings almost -of adoration. But in these glorious tabernacles of nature, where God's -majesty seems, as it were, visibly resting on his works, I have seen -Americans come and stare, and stand for a moment, and depart again, -apparently impressed with nothing but the singularity of the man or -woman who could remain there longer than they did. What can be the cause -of this?--Is it possible that a perception of the beautiful in nature is -a result of artificial cultivation?--is it that the grovelling -narrowness of the usual occupations to which the majority addict -themselves has driven out of them the fine spirit, which is God's altar -in men's souls?--is it that they become incapable of beauty? Wretched -people! They remind me, by contrast, as I see them toiling along the -crowded streets of their cities, those dens of Mammon, of Wordsworth's -noble description of him - - - "Who walk'd in glory and in joy, - Behind his plough, upon the mountain side." - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At about sunset, I wandered into the wood, to the top of the steps -leading to the waterfall; where I could hear, far below, its sweet voice -singing as it passed away. I remained standing here till the carriage -was announced. Just before we went away, our host gave me a small piece -of crystal. It is found among the rocks here, which, I believe, present -many curious geological phenomena, which I leave to the learned to -describe. The strata are the most beautifully regular possible; and, -upon their broad smooth surfaces, a thousand theories sit; which I hope -I did not disturb, as I walked over them in the plenitude of my -ignorance, admiring God's masonry. Oh, fair world!--oh, strange, and -beautiful, and holy places--where one's soul meets one in silence--and -where one's thoughts arise, with the everlasting incense of the waters, -from the earth, which is _His_ footstool, to the heavens, which are -_His_ throne. It grew dark long before we reached Utica: half the way I -sang; the other half I slept, in spite of ruts five fathoms deep, and -all the joltings of these evil ways. To-morrow we start on our way to -Niagara; which, Mr. ---- says, is to sweep Trenton clean from our -memories. I do not think it. - - -_Saturday, 13th._ - -Left Utica at six o'clock, in our exclusive extra: we were to go on as -far as Auburn, a distance of seventy-six miles. The day was very -beautiful, but extremely hot. At Vernon, where we stopped to breakfast, -we overtook the ----s: we had a very good breakfast; and, I think, for -the first time since our land journey from Baltimore to Philadelphia, -last winter, we were waited on by women. Found a case of musical -glasses: sat on the floor, in great delight, amusing myself with them, -while the stage was getting ready, ---- and I began wandering about; but -the place did not look promising, and the heat was intense. We sat -ourselves down under the piazza of the tavern, and I gave him the words -of "To that lone Well." In about an hour we set off again. The country -was very rich and beautiful; and, at every knoll, backed by woodlands, -and skirted by golden grain fields, Mr. ---- exclaimed, "Come, we will -have a farm here." He and my father were to smoke, reflect, and enjoy -life; I was to sing, whenever I happened to please, and enjoy life too; -D---- was to brew, to bake, wash, iron, plough, manage the house, look -after the cattle, take care of the poultry, mind the dairy; in short, do -every thing on earth that was to be done, and enjoy life too: all which -arrangements afforded us matter of converse on the way, and much -amusement. Then my father and Mr. ---- had long argumentations about -acting: the latter is a vehement admirer of Kean; and of course, that -being the case, matter of debate was not wanting. It was all extremely -pleasant and profitable; and while the sun shone, and we all kept our -tempers, nothing could do better. ---- amused me by telling me portions -of ----'s book, the Adventures of a younger Son, with which he had been -extremely charmed; and which I remember beginning on board ship, as we -crossed from England. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -At about half-past three, we arrived at a place called -_Syracuse_!!!--where, stopping to change horses, my father observed that -here there were two different routes to our point of destination; and -desired our driver to take that which passes through Skaneateles, a very -beautiful village, situated on a lake so called. However, to this the -master of the inn, who was also, I believe, proprietor of the coach, -seemed to have some private objection; and while my father was yet -speaking, very coolly shut the coach door in his face, and desired the -driver to go on in the contrary direction. The insolence of the fellow -enraged my father extremely; and it was rather astonishing, that's the -fact: but the deuce is in't if, in a free country, a man may not choose -which way his own coach shall go, in spite of the folk who pay him for -the use of it. We had to pocket the affront; and, what was much more -disagreeable, to travel an ugly uninteresting road, instead of a -picturesque and pretty one. We had not proceeded many miles after this -occurrence, and were just recovering our equanimities, when the said -vehicle broke down. We were not overturned or hurt, only tilted a little -on one side. The driver, however, did not seem to think it safe to -proceed in this condition: the gentlemen got out, and searched the -hedges and thickets for a piece of oak sufficiently strong and stout to -repair, at least for the moment, the damage: we were not at the time -within reach of any house. At last, they procured what they wanted; and, -having propped up the carriage after the best fashion they could, we -proceeded at a foot pace to the next village. Here, while they were -putting our conveyance into something like better order, ---- and I -wandered away to a pretty bright water-course, which, like all water in -this country, was made to turn a mill. The coach being made sound once -more, we packed ourselves into it, and progressed. The evening was -perfectly sultry. I never shall forget, at a place where we stopped to -water the horses, a cart-full of wretched sheep and calves, who were, I -suppose, on their way to the slaughterhouse, but who, in the mean time, -seemed enduring the most horrible torture that creatures can suffer. -They were jammed into the cart so as to be utterly incapable of moving a -single limb; the pitiless sun shone fiercely upon their wretched heads, -and their poor eyes were full of dust and flies. I never saw so -miserable a spectacle of suffering. I looked at the brutal-looking man -that was driving them, and wondered whether he would go to hell, for -tormenting these helpless beasts in this fashion. - -The sun set gloriously. Mr. ---- began talking about Greece, and, -getting a good deal excited, presently burst forth into "The isles of -Greece! the isles of Greece!" which he recited with amazing vehemence -and earnestness. He reminded me of Kean several times: while he was -declaiming, he looked like a tiger. 'Tis strange, or, rather, 'tis not -strange, 'tis but natural, how, in spite of the contempt and even hatred -which he often expresses for England, and every thing connected with it, -his thoughts and plans, and all the energies of his mind, seem for ever -bent upon changes to be wrought in England--freer government, purer -laws, more equal rights. He began to talk about Cromwell: he wanted, he -said, to have a play written out of Cromwell's life. We talked the -matter over with infinite zeal, and established most satisfactorily, -that to accomplish such a thing, as it ought to be done, would be quite -one of the most difficult tasks in the world. Nobody but a religious and -political enthusiast could do it: a poet, unless himself a republican -Englishman, and fanatical sectarian, hardly could: it must be unlike all -other works of art--not an imitation of truth, but truth itself. -Schiller is the only man I can imagine who could have attempted it with -any chance of success: and I even doubt whether he would have made of it -the firebrand our friend wants.[105] Towards evening the heat became -more and more oppressive. Our coach was but ill cobbled, and leaned -awfully to one side. I fell asleep lying in my father's lap; and when we -reached Auburn, which was not until nine o'clock, I was so tired, so -miserably sleepy, and so tortured with the side-ach, from the cramped -position in which I had been lying, that I just crawled into the first -room in the inn where we alighted, and dropped down on the floor fast -asleep. They roused me for supper; and very soon after I betook myself -to bed. The heat was intolerable; the pale feet of the summer lightning -ran along the black edges of the leaden clouds,--the world was alight -with it. I could not sleep: I never endured such suffocating heat. - - -_Sunday, 14th._ - -Rose at eight: the morning was already sultry as the hottest noon in -England. After breakfast, I wandered about the house in search of shade; -went into an empty room, opened the shutters, and got out upon a large -piazza, or rather colonnade, which surrounded it. The side I had chosen -was defended by the house from the fierce sunlight; and I walked up and -down in quiet and loneliness for some time. Not far from the house stood -the prison, one of the state prisons of the country; a large grey -building, which appeared like a huge block of granite, unsheltered by a -single tree or bush, and dim with the hazy heat of the atmosphere. Being -Sunday, we were not able to visit it; but the person who kept the house -where we were, a very intelligent and civil man, gave us some account of -it, and fully corroborated the fact which Stuart mentions,--that when -the prison took fire, and all the criminals confined in it were -liberated to assist in saving the building, in spite of the general -confusion and total absence of restraint or observation, which for some -time left them the most easy opportunity of escape, not one of them took -advantage of this accident to recover their liberty, but every prisoner -returned voluntarily, after the fire was got under, to his cell. This -seems miraculous, and speaks more for the excellence of the system -pursued in these establishments than all the disquisitions in the world. -At about ten, our exclusive extra having driven to the door, we packed -ourselves into it, and proceeded towards Geneva, where we were to dine. -The sky, however, presently became overcast; and, towards noon, the -world was absolutely shrouded in a lead-coloured pall. The air was -stifling: it was impossible to draw one's breath; and a quarter of a -degree more of heat would certainly have occasioned suffocation. We were -all gasping. Suddenly the red lightning tore open the heavy clouds, the -thunder rolled round the heavens, the rain came down in torrents: we -were away from all shelter, and obliged to proceed through the storm. -The leather curtains of our coach were speedily unrolled and buttoned -down; but this formed but a miserable shelter against the furious rain. -Our carpet bags, which were on the outside of the carriage, were soaked -through; and we ourselves were soon in nearly as bad a plight. The rain -came in rivulets through the crevices of our insufficient shelter, and -the seats and bottom of the coach were presently standing pools. We -arrived between twelve and one o'clock at Cayuga; and here we drew up -before the inn door, to await the end of the storm. The rain was still -so violent, that we preferred remaining in the coach to getting out and -being still more thoroughly drenched. The thunder growled sulkily at a -distance, and the lightning glared rapidly from side to side. By -degrees, the over-swollen clouds, having emptied themselves, rolled -away; the rain became less violent; the mist and heavy vapour parted -from off the face of the earth, and the lake appeared blending with the -sky amid the indistinct and hazy outlines of the half-shrouded country. -While we were sitting listening to the storm, silence had fallen upon us -all: a thunderstorm is apt to prove an interruption to conversation. -During this pause, Mr. ---- took out his pencil, and wrote upon a scrap -of paper a very eloquent Mahomedan description of the attributes of God. -I do not know whether it was his own, or an authentic Mahomedan -document: it was sublime. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -The storm having abated, we proceeded on our way; crossed a bridge a -mile and some roods long, over the Cayuga lake; which, however, was -still so veiled with scowling mist and clouds, that we could discern -none of its features. At about three o'clock we reached Geneva, a small -town situated on a lake called Seneca Water. Here we dined. ---- had -most providentially brought silver forks with him: for the wretched -two-pronged iron implements furnished us by our host were any thing but -clean or convenient. After dinner, the weather having become mild and -bright, we went up to a piazza on the second floor, which overlooked the -lake and its banks: the latter are very picturesque; and the town -itself, climbing in terraces along the side of a steep acclivity, rising -from the water, has a very good effect. The lake at this point did not -appear very wide; for we could distinguish, from where we stood, minute -objects on the opposite shore. - -After resting ourselves for a short time, we again took to our coach, -and pursued our route towards Canandaigua, where we were to pass the -night. The afternoon was bright and beautiful, the road tolerable, and -the country through which we passed fertile and smiling. - -As the evening began to come on, we reached Canandaigua Lake, a very -beautiful sheet of water, of considerable extent; we coasted for some -time close along its very margin. The opposite shore was high, clothed -with wood, from amidst which here and there a white house looked -peacefully down on the clear mirror below: the dead themselves can -hardly inhabit regions more blessedly apart from the evil turmoil of the -world, than the inhabitants of these beautiful solitudes.[106] - -Leaving the water's edge, we proceeded about a quarter of a mile, and -found ourselves at the door of the inn at Canandaigua, the principal -among some houses surrounding an open turfed space, like an English -village green, across which ran the high road. My father, Mr. ----, and -I went up to a sort of observatory at the top of the house, from whence -the view was perfectly enchanting. The green below, screened on three -sides with remarkably fine poplar trees, and surrounded by neat white -houses, reminded me of some retired spot in my own dear country. -Opposite us, the land rose with a gentle wooded swell; and to the left, -the lake spread itself to meet the horizon. A fresh breeze blew over the -earth, most grateful after the intense heat of the morning, and the sky -was all strewed with faint rosy clouds, melting away one by one into -violet wreaths, among which the early evening star glittered cold and -clear. - -We came down to supper, which was served to us, as usual, in a large -desolate-looking public room. After this, we came to the sitting-room -they had provided for us, a small comfortable apartment, with a very -finely-toned piano in it. To this I forthwith sat down, and played and -sang for a length of time: late in the evening, I left the instrument, -and my father, Mr. ----, and I took a delightful stroll under the -colonnade, discussing Milton; many passages of which my father recited -most beautifully, to my infinite delight and ecstasy. By and by they -went in, and ---- came out to walk with me. - -Certainly this climate is the most treacherous imaginable: the heat this -morning had been intolerable, and to-night a piercing cold wind had -arisen, that would have rendered winter clothing by no means -superfluous. We walked rapidly up and down, till the bleak blast became -so keen, that we were glad to take refuge in the house. Our unfortunate -carpet bags and their contents are literally drenched: many of my goods -and chattels will never recover this ablution; among others, I am sorry -to say, ----'s beautiful satchel. - - -_Monday, 15th._ - -Our breakfast, which was extremely comfortable and clean, was served to -us in our private room; a singular favour: one, I hope, which will -become a custom as the country is travelled through by greater numbers. -Before breakfast, D---- had been taking a walk about the pretty village, -and trying to beg, borrow, or steal some flowers for me. The master of -the inn, however, succeeded better than she did; for he presently made -his appearance with a very beautiful and fragrant nosegay, which I -found, to my utter dismay, had been levied from a gentleman's private -garden in my name. My horror was excessive at this, and was scarcely -diminished when I discovered, upon enquiry, that they had been gathered -from Mr. ----'s garden; that gentleman having large property and a fine -residence here. He was not in Canandaigua himself; but, as we drove -past his house, I left cards for his lady, who must have thought my -demand on her green-house one of the greatest impertinencies extant. It -was nine o'clock when we left Canandaigua: we were all a little done up -with our two previous days; and it was unanimously settled that we -should proceed only to Rochester, a distance of between thirty and forty -miles, which we accomplished by two o'clock. - -Rochester, upon whose site, I understand, twenty years ago there stood -hardly a house, is now a large and populous manufacturing town. The -progress of life in this country is amazing. From day to day the -wilderness becomes inhabited, peopled, civilised; and where yesterday -the majestic woods were standing, and the silent waters gliding in all -the solemn solitude of unexplored nature, to-day the sound of the forge -and anvil is heard, the busy feet of men pass and repass, their mingled -voices resound, their dwellings arise; the wheels of a thousand -mechanical miracles clash, creak, and jar; the vapours of a thousand -steam-engines mingle with the hitherto lonely clouds; and the huge fins -of a thousand steam-boats beat the waters, carrying over their hitherto -undisturbed surface the vast produce of industry. The labours, the arts, -the knowledge, the wealth, the wonders of education and civilisation! It -is something that fills one with admiration, in the old, and eke the -new, sense of the word. - -The inn at which we alighted was large and comfortable: in the -drawing-room I found a very tolerable piano-forte, to which I instantly -betook myself. By the time we had seen our bed-rooms, and ordered -dinner, we found we should have leisure, before it was ready, to walk to -the falls of the Genesee (the river on which Rochester stands), which -have some celebrity for their beauty. A man from the hotel volunteered -to be our guide, and joined our party. We walked up the main street, -which was crowded and full of business. From this, presently turning -off, we followed a wider road, with houses and pretty flower gardens on -each side, and reached, after half a mile's walk, a meadow skirted by a -deep ravine, through which the river ran; from whence we looked -immediately upon the falls. They would be, and were, I doubt not, once -beautiful; for the barrier of rock, over which the river throws itself -into the valley below, is of considerable breadth and height; but, alas! -the waters have been turned off to turn mills, and a thin curtain, which -falls over the rocks like a vapoury sheet of blue smoke, is all that -remains of the Genesee falls; whilst, from a thousand dingy-looking -mills and manufactories, the poor little rivulets of labouring water -come rushing through narrow dirty channels, all stained and foaming and -hot from their work, to throw themselves into the thin bosom of their -parent stream. Truly, mills and steam-engines are wonderful things, and -I know that men must live; but I wish it were not expedient to destroy -what God has made so very beautiful, in order to make it useful. Our -guide perceiving our admiration was a good deal excited by the -picturesque beauty of the scene, fell into a species of rhapsody, -which terminated thus: "Yes, sir, when I see the waters thus falling -_from the bottom to the top_; I say, sir, when I look at the -water falling from _the bottom to the top_, I can compare it to -nothing--but--but--but--wool out of a cotton-mill!" This was an -unlooked-for climax, and gave us all a violent inclination to laugh in -the face of the orator; which, however, would have been exceedingly -wrong; for so sincere was the good man in his enthusiasm, that he was -not in the least aware of the miraculous proceeding which he twice, with -much emphasis, ascribed to the _upward falling_ water.[107] - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -We waited in this meadow for the passing of a train of rail-road -carriages, which run between Rochester and a small village about three -miles distant, where the river was said to be very beautiful. We hailed -them as they went by, and proceeded in them to their destination. The -view itself, from this point, though romantic and pretty, was scarce -worth going out of the way for; the walk back, however, was delightful. -The river runs here through a deep gully, the banks rising precipitously -above a hundred feet on each side of it. On one side they are -beautifully and thickly wooded; the other presents a bare wall of -reddish rock lying in very regular strata. About a mile and a half -below the falls, the channel of the river contracts itself, and the -water, forcing its way through some irregular rocky projections, forms a -very pretty miniature cataract. We walked along the high margin of the -glen, upon some very thick soft turf, looking down upon the deep bed of -the water, and enjoying a delicious fresh breeze. 'Tis curious enough, -that upon this strip of turf, close to the high road, under the shelter -of a group of trees, we found a couple of tomb-stones. They were -carefully railed round, and bore the names of a man and his wife, -without, however, assigning any cause for their choice of a burial-place -so public and unhallowed. The last mile of our walk was by no means so -agreeable as the previous part had been. Nearing the town, we had to -leave the brink of the river and follow the dusty track of the -rail-road. When we reached Rochester, we dined; after which I went and -lay down, and slept till tea-time. When I came down to tea, found the -gentlemen profoundly busied: ---- writing home, Mr. ---- journalising, -my father poring over maps and road-books, to find out if we could not -possibly get as far as Niagara to-morrow. - - -_Tuesday, 16th._ - -Had to get up before I'd half done my sleep. At six, started from -Rochester for Murray, where we purposed breakfasting. Just as we were -nearing the inn, at this same place, our driver took it into his head to -give us a taste of his quality. We were all earnestly engaged in a -discussion, when suddenly I felt a tremendous sort of stunning blow, and -as soon as I opened my eyes, found that the coach was overturned, lying -completely on its side. I was very comfortably curled up under my -father, who, by Heaven's mercy, did not suffocate me; opposite sat -D----, as white as a ghost, with her forehead cut open, and an -awful-looking stream of blood falling from it; by her stood Mr. ----, -also as pale as ashes: ---- was perched like a bird above us all, on the -edge of the doorway, which was open. The first thing I did, was to cry -as loud as ever I could, "I'm not hurt, I'm not hurt!" which assurance I -shouted sufficiently lustily to remove all anxiety from their minds. The -next thing was to get my father up; in accomplishing which, he trampled -upon me most cruelly. As soon as I was relieved from his mountainous -pressure, I got up, and saw, to my dismay, two men carrying Mr. ---- -into the house. We were all convinced that some of his limbs were -broken: I ran after as quickly as I could, and presently the house was -like an hospital. They carried him into an upper room, and laid him on a -bed; here, too, they brought D----, all white and bleeding. Our -hand-baskets and bags were ransacked for salts and eau de Cologne. Cold -water, hot water, towels, and pocket handkerchiefs, were called into -requisition; and I, with my clothes all torn, and one shoulder all -bruised and cut, went from the one to the other in utter dismay. -Presently, to my great relief, Mr. ---- revived; and gave ample -testimony of having the use of his limbs, by getting up, and, in the -most skilful manner, plastering poor D----'s broken brow up. ---- went -in quest of my father, who had received a violent blow on his leg, and -was halting about, looking after the baggage and the driver, who had -escaped unhurt.[108] The chief cause of our misfortune was the economy -with which the stage-coaches are constructed in this thrifty land; that -is, they have but one door, and, of course, are obliged to be turned -round much oftener than if they had two: in wheeling us, therefore, -rapidly up to the inn, and turning the coach with the side that had a -door towards the house, we swung over, and fell. While the coach was -being repaired, and the horses changed, we, bound up, bruised, and -aching, but still very merry, sat down to breakfast. Mr. ----, who had -been merely stunned, seized on the milk and honey, and stuffed away with -great zeal: poor D---- was the most deplorable of the party, with a -bloody handkerchief bound over one half her face; I only ached a little, -and I believe ---- escaped with a scratch on his finger; so, seeing it -was no worse, we thanked God, and devoured. After breakfast, we packed -ourselves again in our vehicle, and progressed. Mr. ---- had procured -for me a bunch of flowers; and I amused myself with making a wreath of -them. Our route lay over what is called the Ridge road; a very -remarkable tract, pursuing a high embankment, which was once the -boundary of Lake Ontario; though the waters are now distant from it -upwards of seven miles. The theories of the geologists respecting the -former position of the lake are very singular; though borne out by -similar instances of natural convulsions, and also by the very features -of the land. The country through which we journeyed to-day was wilder -and less cultivated than any we have yet seen. A great deal of forest -land, consisting of close, thin, tall, second-growth, springing around -the stump of many a huge tree; thick tangled underwood; marsh and damp -green wilderness, where the grass and bushes trailed about in rank -luxuriance; and piles of felled timber, with here and there a root yet -smoking, bore witness to the first inroads of human cultivation. None of -the trees that were standing were of any girth, or comparable in size -and beauty to our park trees; but some of the stumps were of large size, -and must have been the foundations of noble forest pillars. Our road, -after leaving the Ridge road, was horrible: for some length of time -before we reached Lockport, we were dragged over what is called a -_corduroy road_; which consists merely of logs of wood laid close to -each other, the natural inequalities of which produce a species of -jolting incomparably superior to any other I ever felt, and -administering but little comfort either to our bruised bones or -apprehensive nerves. - -We reached Lockport at about four o'clock. There had been rain in the -course of the morning, but the evening was clear, though very cold. The -appearance of Lockport is very singular: a collection of new white -houses, that look as though they were but this instant finished, -standing in a half-cleared wilderness. All round the town, if such it -may be called, stretch the remains of the once pathless woods, half -cleared, half savage-looking yet; and, as far as the eye can reach, the -country presents a series of dreary slopes, covered with prostrate -trees, heaps of hewn timber, smoking stumps, and blackened trunks--a -sort of forest stubble-land--a very desolate-looking thing indeed. The -house where we stopped appeared to be hardly finished. We ordered -dinner, and I forthwith began kindling a fire, which was extremely -welcome to us all. I was very much bruised with our morning's overturn, -and went and lay down in my bed-room, where I presently slept -profoundly. - - -_Wednesday, 17th._ - -At nine o'clock, we started from Lockport: before doing so, however, we -went down to the canal side to look at the works, which are here very -curious and interesting. ---- ran into a bookseller's shop, and got -----'s book for me, which he was going to pounce upon without knowing -what it was; and ----, for some reasons best known to himself, snatched -it away from him, saying it was a book which he was sure he would not -like. The road between Lockport and Lewistown is very pretty; and we got -out and walked whenever the horses were changed. At one place where we -stopped, I saw a meek-eyed, yellowish-white cart-horse, standing with a -man's saddle on his back. The opportunity was irresistible, and the -desire too--I had not backed a horse for so long. So I got up upon the -amazed quadruped, woman's fashion, and took a gallop through the fields, -with infinite risk of falling off, and proportionate satisfaction. We -reached Lewistown at about noon, and anxious enquiries were instituted -as to how our luggage was to be forwarded, when on the other side; for -we were _exclusive extras_; and for creatures so above common fellowship -there is no accommodation in this levelling land. A ferry and a -ferry-boat, however, it appeared, there were, and thither we made our -way. While we were waiting for the boat, I climbed out on the branches -of a huge oak, which grew over the banks of the river, which here rise -nearly a hundred feet high. Thus comfortably perched, like a bird, -'twixt heaven and earth, I copied off some verses which I had scrawled -just before leaving Lockport. The ferry-boat being at length procured, -we got into it. The day was sultry; the heat intolerable. - -The water of this said river Niagara is of a most peculiar colour, like -a turquoise when it turns green. It was like a thick stream of -verdigris, full of pale milky streaks, whirls, eddies, and -counter-currents, and looked as if it were running up by one bank, and -down by the other. I sat in the sun, on the floor of the boat, revising -my verses. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - -Arrived on the other side, _i. e._ Canada, there was a second pause, as -to how we were to get conveyed to the Falls. My father, ----, and D---- -betook themselves to an inn by the road-side, which promised -information and assistance; and ---- and I, clambering up the heights of -Queenston, sat ourselves down under some bushes, whence we looked -towards Lake Ontario, and where he told me the history of the place; how -his countrymen had thumped my countrymen upon this spot, and how the -English general Brock had fallen near where we sat. A monument, in the -shape of a stone pillar, has been erected to his memory; and to the top -of this ---- betook himself to reconnoitre; which ambitious expedition I -felt no inclination to share. After he had been gone some time, I -thought I perceived signs of stirring down by the inn door: I toiled up -the hill to the base of the pillar to fetch him, and we proceeded down -to the rest of the party. An uneasy-looking rickety cart without springs -was the sole conveyance we could obtain, and into this we packed -ourselves. ---- brought me some beautiful roses, which he had been -stealing for me, and ---- gave me a glass of milk; with which -restoratives I comforted myself, and we set forth. As we squeaked and -creaked (I mean our vehicle) up the hill, I thought either my father's -or ----'s weight quite enough to have broken the whole down; but it did -not happen. My mind was eagerly dwelling on what we were going to see: -that sight which ---- said was the only one in the world which had not -disappointed him. I felt absolutely nervous with expectation. The sound -of the cataract is, they say, heard within fifteen miles when the wind -sets favourably: to-day, however, there was no wind; the whole air was -breathless with the heat of midsummer, and, though we stopped our waggon -once or twice to listen as we approached, all was profoundest silence. -There was no motion in the leaves of the trees, not a cloud sailing in -the sky; every thing was as though in a bright warm death. When we were -within about three miles of the Falls, just before entering the village -of Niagara, ---- stopped the waggon; and then we heard distinctly, -though far off, the voice of the mighty cataract. Looking over the -woods, which appeared to overhang the course of the river, we beheld one -silver cloud rising slowly into the sky,--the everlasting incense of the -waters. A perfect frenzy of impatience seized upon me: I could have set -off and run the whole way; and when at length the carriage stopped at -the door of the Niagara house, waiting neither for my father, D----, nor -----, I rushed through the hall, and the garden, down the steep footpath -cut in the rocks. I heard steps behind me; ---- was following me: down, -down I sprang, and along the narrow footpath, divided only by a thicket -from the tumultuous rapids. I saw through the boughs the white glimmer -of that sea of foam. "Go on, go on; don't stop," shouted ----; and in -another minute the thicket was passed: I stood upon Table Rock. ---- -seized me by the arm, and, without speaking a word, dragged me to the -edge of the rapids, to the brink of the abyss. I saw Niagara.--Oh, God! -who can describe that sight? - - -THE END. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] I do not know how it is to be accounted for, but in spite of much -lighter duties, every article of dress, particularly silks, -embroideries, and all French manufactures, are more expensive here than -in England. The extravagance of the American women in this part of their -expenditure is, considering the average fortunes of this country, quite -extraordinary. They never walk in the streets but in the most showy and -extreme toilet, and I have known twenty, forty, and sixty dollars paid -for a bonnet to wear in a morning saunter up Broadway. - -[2] These are the titles of three omnibuses which run up and down -Broadway all the day long. - -[3] The New Yorkers have begun to see the evil of their ways, as far as -regards their carriage-road in Broadway,--which is now partly -Macadamised. It is devoutly to be hoped, that the worthy authorities -will soon have as much compassion on the feet of their fellow-citizens, -as they have begun to have for their brutes. - -[4] The roughness and want of refinement, which is legitimately -complained of in this country is often however mitigated by instances of -civility, which would not be found commonly elsewhere. As I have noticed -above, the demeanour of men towards women in the streets is infinitely -more courteous here than with us; women can walk, too, with perfect -safety, by themselves, either in New York, Philadelphia, or Boston: on -board the steam-boats no person sits down to table until the ladies are -accommodated with seats; and I have myself in church benefited by the -civility of men who have left their pew, and stood, during the whole -service, in order to afford me room. - -[5] Saw a woman riding to-day; but she has gotten a black velvet beret -upon her head.--Only think of a beret on horseback! The horses here are -none of them properly broken: their usual pace being a wrong-legged -half-canter, or a species of shambling trot, denominated, with infinite -justice, a _rack_. They are all broken with snaffles instead of curbs, -carry their noses out, and pull horribly; I have not yet seen a decent -rider, either man or woman. - -[6] The spirit of independence, which is the common atmospheric air of -America, penetrates into the churches, as well as elsewhere. In Boston, -I have heard the Apostles' Creed mutilated and altered; once by the -omission of the passage "descended into hell," and another time, by the -substitution of the words "descended into the place of departed -spirits." - -[7] Unfortunately this precaution does not fulfil its purpose; universal -suffrage is a political fallacy: and will be one of the stumbling-blocks -in the path of this country's greatness. I do not mean that it will -lessen her wealth, or injure her commercial and financial resources; but -it will be an insuperable bar to the progress of mental and intellectual -cultivation--'tis a plain case of action and reaction. If the mass, _i. -e._ the inferior portion, (for when was the mass not inferior?) elect -their own governors, they will of course elect an inferior class of -governors, and the government of such men will be an inferior -government; that it may be just, honest, and rational, I do not dispute; -but that it ever will be enlarged, liberal, and highly enlightened, I do -not, and cannot, believe. - -[8] I do not know whether his honour the Recorder's information applied -only to the state of New York, or included all the others; 'tis not one -of the least strange features which this strange political process, the -American government, presents, that each state is governed by its own -laws; thus forming a most involved and complicated whole, where each -part has its own individual machinery; or, to use a more celestial -phraseology, its own particular system. - -[9] Whoever pretends to write any account of "Men and Manners" in -America must expect to find his own work give him the lie in less than -six months; for both men and manners are in so rapid a state of progress -that no record of their ways of being and doing would be found correct -at the expiration of that term, however much so at the period of its -writing. Broadway is not only partly Macadamised since first we arrived -here, but there are actually to be seen in it now two or three carriages -of decent build, with hammercloths, foot-boards, and even once or twice -lately I have seen footmen standing on those foot-boards!!! - -[10] Perhaps one reason for the perfect coolness with which a fire is -endured in New York is the dexterity and courage of the firemen: they -are, for the most part, respectable tradesmen's sons, who enlist in this -service, rather than the militia; and the vigilance and activity with -which their duty is discharged deserves the highest praise. - -[11] I have lately read Goethe's Wilhelm Meister. In that wonderful -analysis of the first work of our master-mind by his German peer, all -has been said upon this subject that the most philosophical reason, or -poetical imagination, can suggest; and who that has read it can forget -that most appropriate and beautiful simile, wherein Hamlet's mind is -likened to an acorn planted in a porcelain vase--the seed becomes -living--the roots expand--and the fragile vessel bursts into a thousand -shivers! - -[12] The fish of these waters may be excellent in the water; but owing -to the want of care and niceness with which they are kept after being -caught, they are very seldom worth eating when brought to table. They -have no turbot or soles, a great national misfortune: their best fish -are rock-fish, bass, shad (an excellent herring, as big as a small -salmon), and sheep's-head. Cod and salmon I have eaten; but from the -above cause they were never comparable to the same fish at an English -table. The lobsters, crabs, and oysters are all gigantic, frightful to -behold, and not particularly well-flavoured: their size makes them tough -and coarse. - -[13] My friend was entertaining himself, at the expense of my credulity, -in making this assertion. The rattle-snakes and red Indians have fled -together before the approach of civilisation; and it would be as -difficult to find the one as the other in the vicinity of any of the -large cities of the northern states. - -[14] It is two years since I visited Hoboken for the first time; it is -now more beautiful than ever. The good taste of the proprietor has made -it one of the most picturesque and delightful places imaginable; it -wants but a good carriage-road along the water's edge (for which the -ground lies very favourably) to make it as perfect a public promenade as -any European city can boast, with the advantage of such a river, for its -principal object, as none of them possess. - -I think the European traveller, in order to form a just estimate both of -the evils and advantages deriving from the institutions of this country, -should spend one day in the streets of New York, and the next in the -walks of Hoboken. If in the one, the toil, the care, the labour of mind -and body, the outward and visible signs of the debasing pursuit of -wealth, are marked in melancholy characters upon every man he meets, and -bear witness to the great curse of the country; in the other, the crowds -of happy, cheerful, enjoying beings of that order, which, in the old -world, are condemned to ceaseless and ill-requited labour, will testify -to the blessings which counterbalance that curse. I never was so -forcibly struck with the prosperity and happiness of the lower orders of -society in this country as yesterday returning from Hoboken. The walks -along the river and through the woods, the steamers crossing from the -city, were absolutely thronged with a cheerful well-dressed population -abroad, merely for the purpose of pleasure and exercise. Journeymen, -labourers, handicraftsmen, tradespeople, with their families, bearing -all in their dress and looks evident signs of well-being and -contentment, were all flocking from their confined avocations, into the -pure air, the bright sunshine, and beautiful shade of this lovely place. -I do not know any spectacle which could give a foreigner, especially an -Englishman, a better illustration of that peculiar excellence of the -American government--the freedom and happiness of the lower classes. -Neither is it to be said that this was a holiday, or an occasion of -peculiar festivity--it was a common week-day--such as our miserable -manufacturing population spends from sun-rise to sun-down, in confined, -incessant, unhealthy toil--to earn, at its conclusion, the inadequate -reward of health and happiness so wasted. The contrast struck me -forcibly--it rejoiced my heart; it surely was an object of -contemplation, that any one who had a heart must have rejoiced in. -Presently, however, came the following reflections:--These people are -happy--their wants are satisfied, their desires fulfilled--their -capacities of enjoyment meet with full employment--they are well -fed--well clothed--well housed--moderate labour insures them all this, -and leaves them leisure for such recreations as they are capable of -enjoying; but how is it with me?--and I mean not _me myself_ alone, but -all who, like myself, have received a higher degree of mental -cultivation, whose estimate of happiness is, therefore, so much higher, -whose capacity for enjoyment is so much more expanded and -cultivated;--can I be satisfied with a race in a circular railroad car, -or a swing between the lime-trees? where are my peculiar objects of -pleasure and recreation? where are the picture-galleries--the -sculptures--the works of art and science--the countless wonders of human -ingenuity and skill--the cultivated and refined society--the intercourse -with men of genius, literature, scientific knowledge--where are all the -sources from which I am to draw my recreations? They are not. The heart -of a philanthropist may indeed be satisfied, but the intellectual man -feels a dearth that is inexpressibly painful; and in spite of the real -and great pleasure which I derived from the sight of so much enjoyment, -I could not help desiring that enjoyment of another order were combined -with it. Perhaps the two are incompatible; if so, I would not alter the -present state of things if I could. - -The losers here are decidedly in the minority. Indeed, so much so, as -hardly to form a class; they are a few individuals, scattered over the -country, and of course their happiness ought not to come into -competition with that of the mass of the people; but the Americans, at -the same time that they make no provision whatever for the happiness of -such a portion of their inhabitants, would be very angry if one were to -say it was a very inconsiderable one, and yet that is the truth. - -[15] The climate of this country is the scape-goat upon which all the -ill looks and ill health of the ladies is laid; but while they are -brought up as effeminately as they are, take as little exercise, live in -rooms like ovens during the winter, and marry as early as they do, it -will appear evident that many causes combine, with an extremely variable -climate, to sallow their complexions, and destroy their constitutions. - -[16] The hackney coaches in this country are very different from those -perilous receptacles of dust and dirty straw, which disgrace the London -stands. They are comfortable within, and clean without; and the horses -harnessed to them never exhibit those shocking specimens of cruelty and -ill usage which the poor hack horses in London present. Indeed (and it -is a circumstance which deserves notice, for it bespeaks general -character,) I have not seen, during a two years' residence in this -country, a single instance of brutality towards animals, such as one is -compelled to witness hourly in the streets of any English town. - -[17] There is a striking difference in this respect between the -tradespeople of New York and those of Boston and Philadelphia; and in my -opinion the latter preserve quite self-respect enough to acquit their -courtesy and civility from any charge of servility. The only way in -which I can account for the difference, is the greater impulse which -trade receives in New York, the proportionate rapidity with which -fortunes are made, the ever-shifting materials of which its society is -composed, and the facility with which the man who has served you behind -his counter, having amassed an independence, assumes a station in the -first circle, where his influence becomes commensurate with his wealth. -This is not the case either in Boston or Philadelphia, at least not to -the same degree. - -[18] The universal hour of dining, in New York, when first we arrived, -was three o'clock; after which hour the cooks took their departure, and -nothing was to be obtained fit to eat, either for love or money: this -intolerable nuisance is gradually passing away; but even now, though we -can get our dinner served at six o'clock, it is always dressed at three; -its excellence may be imagined from that. To say the truth, I think the -system upon which all houses of public entertainment are conducted in -this country is a sample of the patience and long-suffering with which -dirt, discomfort, and exorbitant charges may be borne by a whole -community, without resistance, or even remonstrance. The best exceptions -I could name to these various inconveniences are, first, Mr. Cozzen's -establishment at West Point; next, the Tremont at Boston, and, lastly, -the Mansion House at Philadelphia. In each of these, wayfarers may -obtain some portion of decent comfort: but they have their drawbacks; in -the first, there are no private sitting-rooms; and in the last, the -number of servants is inadequate to the work. The Tremont is by far the -best establishment of the sort existing at present. Mr. A----, the -millionnaire of New York, is about to remedy this deficiency, by the -erection of a magnificent hotel in Broadway. One thing, however, is -certain; neither he nor any one else will ever succeed in having a -decent house, if the servants are not a little superior to the Irish -savages who officiate in that capacity in most houses, public and -private, in the northern states of America. - -[19] It is fortunate for the managers of the Park Theatre, and very -unfortunate for the citizens of New York, that the audiences who -frequent that place of entertainment are chiefly composed of the -strangers who are constantly passing in vast numbers through this city. -It is not worth the while of the management to pay a good company, when -an indifferent one answers their purpose quite as well: the system upon -which theatrical speculations are conducted in this country is, having -one or two "stars" for the principal characters, and nine or ten sticks -for all the rest. The consequence is, that a play is never decently -acted, and at such times as stars are scarce, the houses are very -deservedly empty. The terrestrial audiences suffer much by this mode of -getting up plays; but the celestial performers, the stars propped upon -sticks, infinitely more. - -[20] Stewart--Bonfanti. The name of shopkeepers in Broadway: the -former's is the best shop in New York. - -[21] Were the morality that I constantly hear uttered a little more -consistent, not only with right reason, but with itself, I think it -might be more deserving of attention and respect. But the mock delicacy, -which exists to so great a degree with regard to theatrical exhibitions, -can command neither the one nor the other. To those who forbid all -dramatic representations, as exhibitions of an unhealthy tendency upon -our intellectual and moral nature, I have no objections, at present, to -make. Unqualified condemnation, particularly when adopted on such -grounds, may be a sincere, a respectable, perhaps a right, opinion. I -have but one reply to offer to it: the human mind requires recreation; -is not a theatre (always supposing it to be, not what theatres too often -are, but what they ought to be), is not a theatre a better, a higher, a -more noble, and useful place of recreation than a billiard-room, or the -bar of a tavern? Perhaps in the course of the moral and intellectual -improvement of mankind, _all_ these will give way to yet purer and more -refined sources of recreation; but in the mean time, I confess, with its -manifold abuses, a play-house appears to me worthy of toleration, if not -of approbation, as holding forth (when directed as it should be) a -highly intellectual, rational, and refined amusement. - -However, as I before said, my quarrel is not with those who condemn -indiscriminately all theatrical exhibitions; they may be right: at all -events, so sweeping a sentence betrays no inconsistency. But what are we -to say to individuals, or audiences, who turn with affected disgust from -the sallies of Bizarre and Beatrice, and who applaud and laugh, and are -delighted, at the gross immorality of such plays as the Wonder, and Rule -a Wife and have a Wife; the latter particularly, in which the immorality -and indecency are not those of expression only, but of conception, and -mingle in the whole construction of the piece, in which not one -character appears whose motives of action are not most unworthy, and -whose language is not as full of coarseness, as devoid of every -generous, elevated, or refined sentiment. (The tirades of Leon are no -exception; for in the mouth of a man who marries such a woman as -Marguerita, by such means, and for such an end, they are mere -mockeries.) I confess that my surprise was excited when I was told that -an American audience would not endure that portion of Beatrice's wit -which the London censors have spared, and that Othello was all but a -proscribed play; but it was infinitely more so, when I found that the -same audience tolerated, or rather encouraged with their presence and -applause, the coarse productions of Mrs. Centlivre and Beaumont and -Fletcher. With regard to the Inconstant, it is by far the most moral of -Farquhar's plays; that, perhaps, is little praise, for the Recruiting -Officer, and the Beaux' Stratagem, are decidedly the reverse. But in -spite of the licentiousness of the writing, in many parts, the -construction, the motive, the action of the play is not licentious; the -characters are far from being utterly debased in their conception, or -depraved in the sentiments they utter (excepting, of course, the -companions of poor Mirable's last revel); the women, those surest -criterions, by whose principles and conduct may be formed the truest -opinion of the purity of the social atmosphere, the women, though free -in their manners and language (it was the fashion of their times, and of -the times before them, when words did not pass for deeds, either good or -bad), are essentially honest women; and Bizarre, coarse as her -expressions may appear, has yet more _real_ delicacy than poor Oriana, -whose womanly love causes her too far to forget her womanly pride. Of -the catastrophe of this play, and its frightfully-pointed moral, little -need be said to prove that its effect is likely to be far more -wholesome, because far more homely, than that of most theatrical -inventions; invention, indeed, it is not, and its greatest interest, as -perhaps its chief utility, is drawn from the circumstance of its being a -faithful representation of a situation of unequalled horror, in which -the author himself was placed, and from which he was rescued precisely -as he extricates his hero. Of the truth and satirical power of the -dialogue, none who understand it can dispute; and if, instead of -attaching themselves to the farcical romping of Bizarre and her -ungallant lover, the modest critics of this play had devoted some -attention to the dialogues between young and old Mirable, their nice -sense of decency would have been less shocked, and they might have found -themselves repaid by some of the most pointed, witty, and pithy writing -in English dramatic literature. I am much obliged to such of my friends -as lamented that I had to personate Farquhar's impertinent heroine; for -my own good part, I would as lief be such a one, as either Jane Shore, -Mrs. Haller, Lady Macbeth, or the wild woman Bianca. I know that great -crimes have a species of evil grandeur in them; they spring only from a -powerful soil, they are in their very magnitude respectable. I know that -mighty passions have in their very excess a frightful majesty, that -asserts the vigour of the natures from which they rise; and there is as -little similarity between them, and the base, degraded, selfish, -cowardly tribe of petty larceny vices with which human societies abound, -as there is between the caterpillar blight, that crawls over a fertile -district, gnawing it away inch-meal, and the thunderbolt that scathes, -or the earthquake that swallows the same region, in its awful mission of -destruction. But I maintain that freedom of expression and manner is by -no means an indication of laxity of morals, and again repeat that -Bizarre is free in her words, but not in her principles. The authoress -of the most graceful and true analysis of Shakspeare's female characters -has offered a better vindication of their manners than I could write; I -can only say, I pity sincerely all those who, passing over the exquisite -purity, delicacy, and loveliness of their conception, dwell only upon -modes of expression which belong to the times in which their great -creator lived. With respect to the manner in which audiences are -affected by what they hear on the stage, I cannot but think that -gentlemen, who wish their wives and daughters to hear no language of an -exceptionable nature, had better make themselves acquainted with what -they take them to see, or, at all events, avoid, when in the theatre, -attracting their attention to expressions which their disapprobation -serves only to bring into notice, and which had much better escape -unheard, or at least unheeded. Voluminous as this note has become, I -cannot but add one word with respect to the members of the profession to -which I have belonged. Many actresses that I have known, in the -performance of unvirtuous or unlovely characters (I cannot, however, -help remembering that they were also secondary parts), have thought fit -to impress the audience with the wide difference between their assumed -and real disposition, by acting as ill, and looking as cross as they -possibly could, which could not but be a great satisfaction to any moral -audience. I have seen this done by that fine part in Milman's Fazio, -Aldabella, repeatedly, and not unfrequently by the Queen in Hamlet, -Margarita in Rule a Wife and have a Wife (I scarcely wonder at that, -though), and even by poor Shakspeare's Lady Falconbridge. I think this -is a mistake: the audience, I believe, never forget that the actress is -not indeed the wicked woman she seems. In one instance that might have -been the case, perhaps. I speak of a great artist, whose efforts I never -witnessed, but whose private excellence I have a near right to rejoice -in, and who was as true in her performance of the wretch Millwood, as in -her personifications of Shakspeare's grandest creations. - -[22] The Russians and Danes are rich in the possession of an original -and most touching national music; Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, are -alike favoured with the most exquisite native melodies, probably, in the -world. France, though more barren in the wealth of sweet sounds, has a -few fine old airs, that redeem her from the charge of utter sterility. -Austria, Bohemia, and Switzerland, each claim a thousand beautiful and -characteristic mountain songs; Italy is the very palace of music, -Germany its temple; Spain resounds with wild and martial strains, and -the thick groves of Portugal with native music, of a softer and sadder -kind. All the nations of Europe, I presume all those of all the world, -possess some kind of national music, and are blessed by Heaven with some -measure of perception as to the loveliness of harmonious sounds. England -alone, England and her descendant America, seems to have been denied a -sense, to want a capacity, to have been stinted of a faculty, to the -possession of which she vainly aspires. The rich spirit of Italian -music, the solemn soul of German melody, the wild free Euterpe of the -Cantons, have in vain been summoned by turns to teach her how to listen; -'tis all in vain--she does listen painfully; she has learnt by dint of -time, and much endurance, the technicalities of musical science; she -pays regally her instructors in the divine pleasure, but all in vain: -the spirit of melody is not in her; and in spite of hosts of foreign -musicians, in spite of the King's Theatre, in spite of Pasta, in spite -of music-masters paid like ministers of state, in spite of singing and -playing young ladies, and criticising young gentlemen, England, to the -last day of her life, will be a dunce in music, for she hath it not in -her; neither, if I am not much mistaken, hath her daughter. - -[23] It is but justice to state, that this house has passed into other -hands, and is much improved in every respect. Strangers, particularly -Englishmen, will find a great convenience in the five o'clock ordinary, -now established there, which is, I am told, excellently conducted and -appointed. - -[24] The whole of this passage is in fact a succession of small bays, -forming a continuation to the grand bay of New York, and dividing Staten -Island from the mainland of New Jersey; the Raritan river does not -properly begin till Amboy, where it empties itself into a bay of its own -name. - -[25] I had always heard that the face of nature was gigantic in America; -and truly we found the wrinkles such for so young a country. The ruts -were absolute abysses. - -[26] The southern, western, and eastern states of North America have -each their strong peculiarities of enunciation, which render them easy -of recognition. The Virginian and New England accents appear to me the -most striking; Pennsylvania and New York have much less brogue; but -through all their various tones and pronunciations a very strong nasal -inflection preserves their universal brotherhood. They all speak through -their noses, and at the top of their voices. Of dialects, properly so -called, there are none; though a few expressions, peculiar to particular -states, which generally serve to identify their citizens; but these are -not numerous, and a jargon approaching in obscurity that of many of our -counties is not to be met with. The language used in society generally -is unrefined, inelegant, and often ungrammatically vulgar; but it is -more vulgar than unintelligible by far. - -[27] This appears to me to be a most frequent ailment among the American -ladies: they must have particularly bilious constitutions. I never -remember travelling in a steam-boat, on the smoothest water, without -seeing sundry "afflicted fair ones," who complained bitterly of -_sea-sickness_ in the river. - -[28] In spite of its beauty, or rather on that very account, an American -autumn is to me particularly sad. It presents a union of beauty and -decay, that for ever reminds me of that loveliest disguise death puts -on, when the cheek is covered with roses, and the eyes are like stars, -and the life is perishing away; even so appear the gorgeous colours of -the withering American woods. 'Tis a whole forest dying of consumption. - -[29] The magnolia and azalia are two of these; and earlier in the -summer, the whole country looks like fairy-land, with the profuse and -lovely blossoms of the wild laurel, an evergreen shrub unequalled for -its beauty, and which absolutely overruns every patch of uncultivated -ground. I wonder none of our parks have yet been adorned with it: it is -a hardy plant, and I should think would thrive admirably in England. - -[30] In the opening chapter of that popular work, Eugene Aram, are the -following words:--"It has been observed, and there is a world of homely, -ay, and of legislative knowledge in the observation, that wherever you -see a flower in a cottage garden, or a bird-cage at the window, you may -feel sure that the cottagers are better and wiser than their -neighbours." The truth of this observation is indisputable. But for such -"humble tokens of attention to something beyond the _sterile labour_ of -life" you look in vain during a progress through this country. In New -England alone, neatness and a certain endeavour at rustic elegance and -adornment, in the cottages and country residences, recall those of their -fatherland; and the pleasure of the traveller is immeasurably heightened -by this circumstance. If the wild beauties of uncultivated nature lead -our contemplations to our great Maker, these lowly witnesses of the -industry and natural refinement of the laborious cultivator of the soil -warm our heart with sympathy for our kind, and the cheering conviction -that, however improved by cultivation, the sense of beauty, and the love -of what is lovely, have been alike bestowed upon all our race; 'tis a -wholesome conviction, which the artificial divisions of society too -often cause us to lose sight of. The labourer, who, after "sweating in -the eye of Phoebus" all the day, at evening trains the fragrant jasmine -round his lowly door, is the very same man who, in other circumstances, -would have been the refined and liberal patron of those arts which -reflect the beauty of nature. - -[31] In all my progress I looked in vain for the refreshing sight of a -hedge--no such thing was to be seen; and their extreme rarity throughout -the country renders the more cultivated parts of it arid looking and -comparatively dreary. These crooked fences in the south, and stone walls -to the north, form the divisions of the fields, instead of those -delicious "hedge-rows green," where the old elms delight to grow, where -the early violets and primroses first peep sheltered forth, where the -hawthorn blossoms sweeten the summer, the honeysuckle hangs its yellow -garlands in the autumn, and the red "hips and haws" shine like bushes of -earthly coral in the winter. - -But the Americans are in too great a hurry to plant hedges: they have -abundance of native material; but a wooden fence is put up in a few -weeks, a hedge takes as many years to grow; and, as I said before, an -American has not time to be a year about anything. When first the -country was settled, the wood was an encumbrance, and it was cut down -accordingly: that is by no means the case now; and the only -recommendation of these fences is, therefore, the comparative rapidity -with which they can be constructed. One of the most amiable and -distinguished men of this country once remarked to me, that the -Americans were in too great a hurry about every thing they undertook to -bring any thing to perfection. And certainly, as far as my observation -goes, I should _calculate_ that an American is born, lives, and dies -twice as fast as any other human creature. I believe one of the great -inducements to this national hurry is, that "time is money," which is -true; but it is also true, sometimes, that "most haste makes worst -speed." - -[32] These are two very pretty villages, of Quaker origin, situated in -the midst of a fertile and lovely country, and much resorted to during -the summer season by the Philadelphians. - -[33] It has happened to me after a few hours' travelling in a steam-boat -to find the white dress, put on fresh in the morning, covered with -yellow tobacco stains; nor is this very offensive habit confined to the -lower orders alone. I have seen _gentlemen_ spit upon the carpet of the -room where they were sitting, in the company of women, without the -slightest remorse; and I remember once seeing a gentleman, who was -travelling with us, very deliberately void his tobacco-juice into the -bottom of the coach, instead of through the windows, to my inexpressible -disgust. - -[34] I wish that somebody would be so obliging as to impress people in -general with the extreme excellence of a perception of the _fitness of -things_. Besides the intrinsic beauty of works of art, they have a -beauty derived from their appropriateness to the situations in which -they are placed, and their harmony with the objects which surround them: -this minor species of beauty is yet a very great one. If it were more -studied, and better understood, public buildings would no longer appear -as if they had fallen out of the clouds by chance; parks and plantations -would no more have the appearance of nurseries, where the trees were -classed by kind, instead of being massed according to their various -forms and colours; and Gothic and classic edifices would not so often -seem as if they had forsaken their appropriate situations, to rear -themselves in climates, and among scenery, with which they in no way -harmonise. - -[35] Politics of all sorts, I confess, are far beyond my limited powers -of comprehension. Those of this country, as far as I have been able to -observe, resolve themselves into two great motives,--the aristocratic -desire of elevation and separation, and the democratic desire of -demolishing and levelling. Whatever may be the immediate cause of -excitement or discussion, these are the two master-springs to which they -are referable. Every man in America is a politician; and political -events, of importance only because they betray the spirit which would be -called into play by more stirring occasions, are occurring incessantly, -and keeping alive the interest which high and low alike take in the -evolutions of their political machine. Elections of state officers, -elections of civil authorities, all manner of elections (for America is -one perpetual contest for votes), are going on all the year round; and -whereas the politics of men of private stations in other countries are -kept quietly by them, and exhibited only on occasions of general -excitement, those of an American are as inseparable from him as his -clothes, and mix up with his daily discharge of his commonest daily -avocations. I was extremely amused at seeing over a hat-shop in New York -one day, "Anti-Bank Hat-Store," written in most attractive characters, -as an inducement for all good democrats to go in and purchase their -beavers of so republican a hatter. The universal-suffrage system is of -course the cause of this general political mania; and during an election -of mayor or aldermen, the good shopkeepers of New York are in as fierce -a state of excitement as if the choice of a perpetual dictator were the -question in point. Politics is the main subject of conversation among -American men in society; but, as I said before, the immediate object of -discussion being most frequently some petty local interest or other, -strangers cannot derive much pleasure from, or feel much sympathy in, -the debate. - -[36] I have often thought that the constant demand for small theatres, -which I have heard made by persons of the higher classes of society in -England, was a great proof of the decline of the more imaginative -faculties among them; and the proportionate increase of that fastidious -and critical spirit, which is so far removed from every thing which -constitutes the essence of poetry. The idea of illusion in a dramatic -exhibition is confined to the Christmas spectators of old tragedies and -new pantomimes; the more refined portions of our English audiences yawn -through Shakspeare's historical plays, and _quiz_ through those which -are histories of human nature and its awful passions. They have -forgotten what human nature really is, and cannot even _imagine it_. -They require absolute reality on the stage, because their incapable -spirits scoff at poetical truth; and that absolute reality, in our days, -consists in such representations as the Rent Day; or (crossing the -water, for we dearly love what is foreign) the homely improbabilities of -Victorine, Henriette, and a pack of equally worthless subjects of -exhibition. Indeed, theatres have had an end; for the refined, the -highly educated, the first classes of society, they have had an end; it -will be long, however, before the mass is sufficiently refined to lose -all power of imagination; and while our aristocracy patronise French -melodramas, and seek their excitement in the most trashy -sentimentalities of the modern _ecole romantique_, I have some hopes -that our plebeian pits and galleries may still retain their sympathy for -the loves of Juliet and the sorrows of Ophelia. I would rather a -thousand times act either of those parts to a set of Manchester -mechanics, than to the most select of our aristocracy, for they are -"nothing, if not critical." - -[37] Kean is gone--and with him are gone Othello, Shylock, and Richard. -I have lived among those whose theatrical creed would not permit them to -acknowledge him as a great actor; but they must be bigoted, indeed, who -would deny that he was a great genius, a man of most original and -striking powers, careless of art, perhaps because he did not need it; -but possessing those rare gifts of nature, without which art alone is as -a dead body. Who that ever heard will ever forget the beauty, the -unutterable tenderness, of his reply to Desdemona's entreaties for -Cassio, "Let him come when he will, I can deny thee nothing;" the deep -despondency of his "Oh, now farewell;" the miserable anguish of his "Oh, -Desdemona, away, away!" Who that ever saw will ever forget the -fascination of his dying eyes in Richard, when, deprived of his sword, -the wondrous power of his look seemed yet to avert the uplifted arm of -Richmond. If he was irregular and unartistlike in his performances, so -is Niagara, compared with the water-works of Versailles. - -[38] I have acted Ophelia three times with my father, and each time, in -that beautiful scene where his madness and his love gush forth together -like a torrent swollen with storms, that bears a thousand blossoms on -its troubled waters, I have experienced such deep emotion as hardly to -be able to speak. The exquisite tenderness of his voice, the wild -compassion and forlorn pity of his looks bestowing that on others which, -above all others, he most needed; the melancholy restlessness, the -bitter self-scorning; every shadow of expression and intonation was so -full of all the mingled anguish that the human heart is capable of -enduring, that my eyes scarce fixed on his ere they filled with tears; -and long before the scene was over, the letters and jewel-cases I was -tendering to him were wet with them. The hardness of professed actors -and actresses is something amazing: after acting this part, I could not -but recall the various Ophelias I have seen, and commend them for the -astonishing absence of every thing like feeling which they exhibited. -Oh, it made my heart sore to act it. - -[39] I am speaking now only of the common saddle-horses that one sees -about the streets and roads. The southern breed of race-horses is a -subject of great interest and care to all sporting men here: they are -very beautiful animals, of a remarkably slight and delicate make. But -the perfection of horses in this country are those trained for trotting: -their speed is almost incredible. I have been whirled along in a -light-built carriage by a pair of famous professed trotters, who -certainly got over the ground at the rate of a moderate-going -steam-engine, and this without ever for a moment breaking into a gallop. -The fondness of the Americans for this sort of horses, however, is one -reason why one can so rarely obtain a well-mouthed riding-horse. These -trotters are absolutely carried on the bit, and require only a snaffle, -and an arm of iron to hold them up. A horse well set upon his haunches -is not to be met with; and owing to this mode of breaking, their action -is entirely from the head and shoulders; and they both look and feel as -if they would tumble down on their noses. - -[40] Except where they have been made political tools, newspaper writers -and editors have never, I believe, been admitted into good society in -England. It is otherwise here: newspapers are the main literature of -America; and I have frequently heard it quoted, as a proof of a man's -abilities, that he writes in such and such a newspaper. Besides the -popularity to be obtained by it, it is often attended with no small -literary consideration; and young men here, with talents of a really -high order, and who might achieve far better things, too often are -content to accept this very mediocre mode of displaying their abilities, -at very little expense of thought or study, and neglect far worthier -objects of ambition, and the rewards held out by a distant and permanent -fame. I know that half my young gentlemen acquaintance here would reply, -that they must live in the mean time: and it is a real and deep evil, -arising from the institutions of this country, that every man must toil -from day to day for his daily bread; and in this degrading and -spirit-loading care, all other nobler desires are smothered. It is a -great national misfortune. - -[41] This delightful virtue of neatness is carried almost to an -inconvenient pitch by the worthy Philadelphians: the town, every now and -then, appears to be in a perfect frenzy of cleanliness; and of a -Saturday morning, early, the streets are really impassable, except to a -good swimmer. "Cleanliness," says the old saw, "is near to godliness." -Philadelphia must be very near heaven. - -[42] The final result of our very unfortunate dealings with this -gentleman is, that our earnings (and they are not lightly come by), to -the amount of near three thousand dollars, are at this moment in the -hands of a trustee, and Heaven and a New England court of justice will -decide whether they are ever to come into ours. - -[43] When we arrived in America, we brought letters of introduction to -several persons in New York: many were civil enough to call upon us: we -were invited out to sundry parties, and were introduced into what is -there called the first society. I do not wish to enter into any -description of it, but will only say that I was most disagreeably -astonished; and had it been my fate to have passed through the country -as rapidly as most travellers do, I should have carried away a very -unfavourable impression of the _best_ society of New York. Fortunately, -however, for me, my visits were repeated, and my stay prolonged; and, in -the course of time, I became acquainted with many individuals whose -manners and acquirements were of a high order, and from whose -intercourse I derived the greatest gratification. But they generally did -me the favour to visit me; and I still could not imagine how it happened -that I never met them at the parties to which I was invited, and in the -circles where I visited. I soon discovered that they formed a society -among themselves, where all those qualities which I had looked for among -the self-styled _best_ were to be found. When I name Miss Sedgwick, -Halleck, Irving, Bryant, Paulding, and some of less fame, but whose -acquirements rendered their companionship delightful indeed, amongst -whom I felt proud and happy to find several of my own name, it will no -longer appear singular that they should feel too well satisfied with the -resources of their own society, either to mingle in that of the vulgar -_fashionables_, or seek with avidity the acquaintance of every stranger -that arrives in New York. It is not to be wondered at that foreigners -have spoken as they have of what is termed fashionable society here, or -have condemned, with unqualified censure, the manners and tone -prevailing in it. Their condemnations are true and just as regards what -they see; nor, perhaps, would they be much inclined to moderate them -when they found that persons possessing every quality that can render -intercourse between rational creatures desirable were held in light -esteem, and neglected, as either bores, blues, or dowdies, by those so -infinitely their inferiors in every worthy accomplishment. The same -separation, or, if any thing, a still stronger one, subsists in -Philadelphia between the self-styled fashionables and the really good -society. The distinction there is really of a nature perfectly -ludicrous. A friend of mine was describing to me a family whose manners -were unexceptionable and whose mental accomplishments were of a high -order: upon my expressing some surprise that I had never met with them, -my informant replied, "Oh, no, they are not received by the Chestnut -Street _set_." If I were called upon to define that society in New York -and Philadelphia which ranks (by right of self-arrogation) as first and -best, I should say it is a purely dancing society, where a fiddle is -indispensable to keep its members awake; and where their brains and -tongues seem, by common consent, to feel that they had much better give -up the care of mutual entertainment to the feet of the parties -assembled; and they judge well. Now, I beg leave clearly to be -understood, there is another, and a far more desirable circle; but it is -not the one into which strangers find their way generally. To an -Englishman, this _fashionable_ society presents, indeed, a pitiful -sample of lofty pretensions without adequate foundation. Here is a -constant endeavour to imitate those states of European society which -have for their basis the feudal spirit of the early ages, and which are -rendered venerable by their rank, powerful by their wealth, and refined, -and in some degree respectable, by great and general mental cultivation. -Of Boston, I have not spoken. The society there is of an infinitely -superior order. A very general degree of information, and a much greater -simplicity of manners, render it infinitely more agreeable. But of that -hereafter. - -[44] The beautiful villas on the banks of the Schuylkill are all either -utterly deserted and half ruinous, or let out by the proprietors to -tavern-keepers. The reason assigned for this is, that during that season -of the year when it would be most desirable to reside there, the fever -and ague takes possession of the place, and effectually banishes all -other occupants. This very extraordinary and capricious malady is as -uncertain in its residence, as unwelcome where it does fix its abode. -The courses of some of the rivers, and even whole tracts of country away -from the vicinity of the water, have been desolated by it: from these it -has passed away entirely, and removed itself to other districts, before -remarkably healthy. Sometimes it visits particular places at intervals -of one or two seasons; sometimes it attaches itself to one side of a -river, and leaves the inhabitants of the other in the enjoyment of -perfect health; in short, it is quite as unaccountable in its -proceedings as a fine lady. Many causes have been assigned as its -origin; which, however, have varied in credibility at almost every new -appearance of the malady. The enormous quantity of decaying vegetation -with which the autumn woods are strewn, year after year, till it -absolutely forms a second soil; the dam lately erected by the -water-works, and which, intercepting the tide, causes occasional -stagnation; the unwholesome action of water lodging in hollows in the -rocks; are all reasons which have been given to me when I have enquired -about this terrible nuisance along the banks of the Schuylkill: but -there is another, and one which appeared so obvious to me, that when -first I saw it, I felt much inclined to attribute the fever and ague to -that, and to that alone. I allude to a foul and stagnant ditch, lying -between the tow-path and the grounds of these country houses, of nearly -a mile in length, and of considerable width. When I saw the sun pouring -its intense light down into this muddy pool, covered with thick and -unwholesome incrustations, I could not help remarking that this alone -was quite sufficient to breed a malaria in the whole neighbourhood; and -that if the gentlemen proprietors of the lands along this part of the -river would drain this very poisonous-looking repository for bull-frogs, -their dwellings would, in all probability, be free from fever and ague. - -[45] This beautiful younger world appears to me to have received the -portion of the beloved younger son--the "coat of many colours." - -[46] This country is in one respect blessed above all others, and above -all others deserving of blessing. There are no poor--I say there are -none, there _need_ be none; none here need lift up the despairing voice -of hopeless and helpless want towards that Heaven which hears when men -will not. No father here need work away his body's health, and his -spirit's strength, in unavailing labour, from day to day, and from year -to year, bowed down by the cruel curse his fellows lay upon him. No -mother need wish, in the bitterness of her heart, that the children of -her breast had died before they exhausted that nourishment which was the -only one her misery could feel assured would not fail them. None need be -born to vice, for none are condemned to abject poverty. Oh, it makes the -heart sick to think of all the horrible anguish that has been suffered -by thousands and thousands of those wretched creatures, whose want -begets a host of moral evils fearful to contemplate; whose existence -begins in poverty, struggles on through care and toil, and -heart-grinding burdens, and ends in destitution, in sickness,--alas! too -often in crime and infamy. Thrice blessed is this country, for no such -crying evil exists in its bosom; no such moral reproach, no such -political rottenness. Not only is the eye never offended with those -piteous sights of human suffering, which make one's heart bleed, and -whose number appals one's imagination in the thronged thoroughfares of -the European cities; but the mind reposes with delight in the certainty -that not one human creature is here doomed to suffer and to weep through -life; not one immortal soul is thrown into jeopardy by the combined -temptations of its own misery, and the heartless selfishness of those -who pass it by without holding out so much as a finger to save it. If we -have any faith in the excellence of mercy and benevolence, we must -believe that this alone will secure the blessing of Providence on this -country. - -[47] Throughout all the northern states, and particularly those of New -England, the Unitarian form of faith prevails very extensively. It -appears to me admirably suited to the spiritual necessities of this -portion of the Americans. They are a reasoning, not an imaginative, -race; moreover, they are a hard-working, not an idle, one. It therefore -suits their necessities, as well as their character, to have a religious -creed divested at once of mysteries at which the rational mind excepts; -and of long and laborious ceremonies, which too often engross the time -without the attention of the worshipper. They are poor, too, -comparatively speaking; and, were they so inclined, could little afford, -either the splendid pageantry which the Romish priesthood require, or -the less glaring but not less expensive revenues which the Episcopalian -clergy enjoy. Their form of religion is a simple one, a short one, and a -cheap one. Without attempting to discuss its excellence in the abstract, -it certainly appears to me to be as much fitted for this people, as the -marvellous legends and magnificent shows of the Romish church were to -the early European nations. The church in America is not, as with us, -made a mere means of living: there are no rich benefices, or -over-swelled bishoprics, to be hoped for, by the man who devotes himself -to the service of God's altar: the pecuniary remuneration of the clergy -depends upon the generosity of their congregations; and, for the most -part, a sincere love of his vocation must be the American minister's -reward, as it was his original instigation to the work. - -[48] Whatever progress phrenology may have made in the convictions of -people in general, it is much to be hoped that the physiological -principles to which, in the development of their system, its professors -constantly advert, may find favour even with those who are not prepared -to admit the truth of the new philosophy of the human intellect. While -we have bodies as well as souls, we must take care of the health of our -bodies, if we wish our souls to be healthy. I have heard many people -mention the intimate union of spirit and matter, displayed in the -existence of a human being, as highly degrading to the former; however -that may be, it is certain that we by no means show our value for the -one, by neglecting and maltreating the other: and that if, instead of -lamenting over the unworthiness of the soul's fleshy partner, we were to -improve and correct and endeavour to ennoble it, we should do the wiser -thing. Upon a well-regulated digestion and circulation, and a healthful -nervous system, many of our virtues depend, much of our happiness; and -it is almost as impossible to possess a healthy and vigorous mind in a -diseased and debilitated body, as it is unusual to see a strong and -healthful body allied to an intemperate and ill-governed spirit. We have -some value for the casket which contains our jewel: then should we not -have some for that casket to which the jewel absolutely adheres, and -which cannot suffer injury itself without communicating it to that which -it contains? Exercise, regularity, and moderation in diet and sleep, -well-proportioned and varied studies and recreations,--these are none of -them subjects of trivial importance to the wise. Much of our ease and -contentedness depends upon them; much of our well-being, much of our -_well-doing_. - -[49] I think it has not been my good fortune, in more than six -instances, during my residence in this country, to find ladies "at home" -in the morning. The first reason for this is, the total impossibility of -having a housekeeper; the American servants steadfastly refusing to obey -_two_ mistresses; the being subservient to any appears, indeed, a -dreadful hardship to them. Of course this compels the lady of the house -to enter into all those minute daily details, which with us devolve upon -the superintendent servant, and she is thus condemned, at least for some -part of the morning, to the store-room or the kitchen. In consequence of -this, her toilet is seldom completed until about to take her morning -promenade; and I have been a good deal surprised, more than once, at -being told, when I called, that "the ladies were dressing, but would be -down immediately." This is French; the disorderly slouching about half -the morning in a careless undress being, unluckily, quite compatible -with that exquisite niceness of appearance with which the Parisian -ladies edify their streets so much, and their homes so little. Another -very disagreeable result of this arrangement is, that when you are -admitted into a house in the morning, the rooms appear as if they never -were used: there are no books lying about, no work-tables covered with -evidences of constant use, and if there is a piano, it is generally -closed; the whole giving one an uninhabited feel that is extremely -uncomfortable. As to a morning lounge in a lady's boudoir, or a -gentleman's library, the thing's unheard of; to be sure there are no -loungers, where every man is tied to a counting-house from morning till -night; and therefore no occasion for those very pleasant sanctums -devoted to gossiping, political, literary, and scandalous. - -[50] I am sure there is no town in Europe where my father could fix his -residence for a week, without being immediately found out by most of the -residents of any literary acquirements, or knowledge of matters relating -to art; I am sure that neither in France, Italy, or Germany, could he -take up his abode in any city, without immediately being sought by those -best worth knowing in it. I confess it surprised me, therefore, when I -found that, during a month's residence in Philadelphia, scarcely a -creature came near us, and but one house was hospitably opened to us; as -regards myself, I have no inclination whatever to speak upon the subject -but it gave me something like a feeling of contempt, not only for the -charities, but for the good taste of the Philadelphians, when I found -them careless and indifferent towards one whose name alone is a passport -into every refined and cultivated society in Europe. Every where else, -in America, our reception was very different; and I can only attribute -the want of courtesy we met with in Philadelphia to the greater -prevalence of that very small spirit of dignity which is always afraid -of committing itself. - -[51] The familiar appellation by which the democracy designate their -favourite, General Jackson. The hickory wood is the tallest and the -toughest possible, and by no means a bad type of some of the President's -physical and moral attributes. Hickory poles, as they are called, are -erected before most of the taverns frequented by the thorough-going -Jacksonites; and they are sometimes surmounted by the glorious "Cap of -Liberty," that much abused symbol, which has presided over so many -scenes of political frenzy. - -[52] In beholding this fine young giant of a world, with all its -magnificent capabilities for greatness, I think every Englishman must -feel unmingled regret at the unjust and unwise course of policy which -alienated such a child from the parent government. But, at the same -time, it is impossible to avoid seeing that some other course must, ere -long, have led to the same result, even if England had pursued a more -maternal course of conduct towards America. No one, beholding this -enormous country, stretching from ocean to ocean, watered with ten -thousand glorious rivers, combining every variety of climate and soil, -therefore, every variety of produce and population; possessing within -itself every resource that other nations are forced either to buy -abroad, or to create substitutes for at home; no one, seeing the -internal wealth of America, the abundant fertility of the earth's -surface, the riches heaped below it, the unparalleled facilities for the -intercourse of men, and the interchange of their possessions throughout -its vast extent, can for an instant indulge the thought that such a -country was ever destined to be an appendage to any other in the world, -or that any chain of circumstances whatever could have long maintained -in dependence a people furnished with every means of freedom and -greatness. But far from regretting that America has thrown off her -allegiance, and regarding her as a rebellious subject and irreverent -child, England will surely, ere long, learn to look upon this country as -the inheritor of her glory; the younger England, destined to perpetuate -the language, the memory, the virtues, of the noble land from which she -is descended. Loving and honouring my country as I do, I cannot look -upon America with any feeling of hostility. I not only hear the voice of -England in the language of this people, but I recognise in all their -best qualities, their industry, their honesty, their sturdy independence -of spirit, the very witnesses of their origin--they are English; no -other people in the world would have licked us as they did; nor any -other people in the world built up, upon the ground they won, so sound, -and strong, and fair an edifice. - -With regard to what I have said in the beginning of this note, of the -many reasons which combined to render this country independent of all -others, I think they in some measure tell against the probability of its -long remaining at unity with itself. Such numerous and clashing -interests; such strong and opposite individuality of character between -the northern and southern states; above all, such enormous extent of -country; seem rationally to present many points of insecurity, many -probabilities of separations and breakings asunder; but all this lies -far on, and I leave it to those who have good eyes for a distance. - -[53] I think the pretension to pre-eminence, in the various societies of -North America, is founded on these grounds. In Boston, a greater degree -of mental cultivation; in New York, the possession of wealth; and a -lady, of whom I enquired the other day what constituted the superiority -of the _aristocracy_ in Philadelphia, replied,--"Why, birth, to be -sure." Virginia and Carolina, indeed, long prided themselves upon their -old family names, which were once backed by large possessions; and for -many years the southern gentlemen might not improperly be termed the -aristocracy of America; but the estates of those who embraced the king's -cause during the rebellion were confiscated; and the annulling the laws -of entail and primogeniture, and the parcelling out of property under -the republican form of government, have gradually destroyed the fortunes -of most of the old southern families. Still, they hold fast to the -spirit of their former superiority, and from this circumstance, and the -possession of slaves, which exempts them from the drudgery of earning -their livelihood, they are a much less mercantile race of men than those -of the northern states; generally better informed, and infinitely more -polished in their manners. The few southerners with whom I have become -acquainted resemble Europeans both in their accomplishments, and the -quiet and reserve of their manners. On my remarking, one day, to a -Philadelphia gentleman, whose general cultivation keeps pace with his -political and financial talents, how singular the contrast was between -the levelling spirit of this government, and the separating and dividing -spirit of American society, he replied, that, if his many vocations -allowed him time, he should like to write a novel, illustrating the -curious struggle which exists throughout this country between its -political and its social institutions. The anomaly is, indeed, striking. -Democracy governs the land; whilst, throughout society, a contrary -tendency shows itself, wherever it can obtain the very smallest -opportunity. It is unfortunate for America that its aristocracy must, of -necessity, be always one of wealth. - -[54] Of course the captain is undisputed master of the boat, and any -disorders, quarrels, etc., which may arise, are settled by his -authority. Any passenger, guilty of misbehaviour, is either confined or -sent immediately on shore, no matter how far from his intended -destination. I once saw very summary justice performed on a troublesome -fellow who was disturbing the whole society on board one of the North -River steamers. He was put into the small boat with the captain and a -stout-looking sailor, and very comfortably deposited on some rafts which -were floating along shore, about twenty miles below West Point, whither -he was bound. - -[55] The quantity of one's companions in these conveyances is not more -objectionable than their quality sometimes. As they are the only -vehicles, and the fares charged are extremely low, it follows, -necessarily, that all classes and sorts of people congregate in them, -from the ragged Irish emigrant and the boorish back-countryman, to the -gentleman of the senate, the supreme court, and the president himself. - -[56] The manners of the young girls of America appear singularly free to -foreigners; and until they become better acquainted with the causes -which produce so unrestrained a deportment, they are liable to take -disadvantageous and mistaken impressions with regard to them. The term -which I should say applied best to the tone and carriage of American -girls from ten to eighteen, is hoydenish; laughing, giggling, romping, -flirting, screaming at the top of their voices, running in and out of -shops, and spending a very considerable portion of their time in -lounging about in the streets. In Philadelphia and Boston, almost all -the young ladies attend classes or day schools; and in the latter place -I never went out, morning, noon, or evening, that I did not meet, in -some of the streets round the Tremont House, a whole bevy of young -school girls, who were my very particular friends, but who, under -pretext of going to, or returning from, school, appeared to me to be -always laughing, and talking, and running about in the public -thoroughfares; a system of education which we should think by no means -desirable. The entire liberty which the majority of young ladies are -allowed to assume, at an age when in England they would be under strict -nursery discipline, appears very extraordinary; they not only walk alone -in the streets, but go out into society, where they take a determined -and leading part, without either mother, aunt, or chaperon of any sort; -custom, which renders such an appendage necessary with us, entirely -dispenses with it here; and though the reason of this is obvious enough -in the narrow circles of these small towns, where every body knows every -body, the manners of the young ladies do not derive any additional charm -from the perfect self-possession which they thus acquire. Shyness -appears to me to be a quality utterly unknown to either man, woman, or -child in America. The girls, from the reasons above stated, and the -boys, from being absolutely thrown into the world, and made men of -business before they are sixteen, are alike deficient in any thing like -diffidence; and I really have been all but disconcerted at the perfect -assurance with which I have been addressed, upon any and every subject, -by little men and women just half way through their teens. That very -common character amongst us, a shy man, is not to be met with in these -latitudes. An American conversing on board one of their steam-boats is -immediately surrounded, particularly if his conversation, though -strictly directed to one individual, is of a political nature; in an -instant a ring of spectators is formed round him, and whereas an -Englishman would become silent at the very first appearance of a -listener, an American, far from seeming abashed at this "audience," -continues his discourse, which thus assumes the nature of an harangue, -with perfect equanimity, and feels no annoyance whatever at having -unfolded his private opinions of men and matters to a circle of forty or -fifty people whom they could in no possible way concern. Speechifying is -a very favourite species of exhibition with the men here, by the by; -and, besides being self possessed, they are all remarkably fluent. -Really eloquent men are just as rare in this country as in any other, -but the "gift of the gab" appears to me more widely disseminated amongst -Americans than any other people in the world. Many things go to make -good speakers of them: great acuteness, and sound common sense, -sufficient general knowledge, and great knowledge of the world, an -intense interest in every political measure, no matter how trivial in -itself, no sense of bashfulness, and a great readiness of expression. -But to return to the manners of the young American girls:--It is -Rousseau, I think, who says, "Dans un pays ou les moeurs sont pures, les -filles seront faciles, et les femmes severes." This applies particularly -well to the carriage of the American women. When remarking to a -gentleman once the difference between the manners of my own young -countrywomen and his, I expressed my disapprobation of the education -which led to such a result, he replied, "You forget the comparatively -pure state of morals in our country, which admits of this degree of -freedom in our young women, without its rendering them liable to insult -or misconstruction." This is true, and it is also most true, for I have -seen repeated instances of it, that those very girls, whose manners have -been most displeasing to my European ways of feeling, whom I should have -pointed out as romps and flirts pre-eminent, not only make excellent -wives, but from the very moment of their marriage seem to forsake -society, and devote themselves exclusively to household duties and -retirement. But that I have seen and known of repeated instances of -this, I could scarcely have believed it, but it is the case; and a young -American lady, speaking upon this subject, said to me, "We enjoy -ourselves before marriage; but in your country, girls marry to obtain a -greater degree of freedom, and indulge in the pleasures and dissipations -of society." She was not, I think, greatly mistaken. - -[57] For the origin of this curious name, see that interesting and -veracious work, the history of Knickerbocker. - -[58] Famous as the scene of Ichabod Crane's exploits. - -[59] If the results answer to the means employed, the pupils of West -Point ought to turn out accomplished scholars in every branch of human -learning, as well as ripe soldiers and skilful engineers. Their course -of education consists of almost every study within the range of man's -capacity; and as the school discipline is unusually strict, their hours -of labour many, and of recreation very few, they should he able to boast -of many "wise men" among their number. However it is here, I imagine, as -elsewhere; where studies are pursued laboriously for a length of time, -variety becomes a necessary relief to the mental powers, and so far the -multiplicity of objects of acquirement may be excused; but surely, to -combine in the education of one youth the elements of half a dozen -sciences, each one of which would wear out a man's life in the full -understanding of it, is not the best system of instruction. However, it -is the one now universally adopted, and tends to give more smatterers in -science than scientific men to the world. The military part of their -education is, however, what the pupils of West Point are most exercised -in, and, so far as one so ignorant of such matters as myself can judge, -I should imagine the system adopted calculated to make expert -artillerymen and engineers of them. Their deportment, and the way they -went through their evolutions on the parade, did not appear to me very -steady--there was a want of correctness of carriage, generally, and of -absolute precision of movement, which one accustomed to the manoeuvring -of regular troops detects immediately. There are several large pieces of -ordnance kept in the gun-room, some of which were taken from the -English; and I remarked a pretty little brass cannon, which almost -looked plaything, which bore the broad arrow and the name of Saratoga. - -[60] It might be a curious and interesting matter of research to -determine under what combination of external circumstances the spirit of -poetry flourishes most vigorously, and good poets have most abounded. -The extremes of poverty and luxury seem alike inimical to its -well-being; yet the latter far more so than the former, for most poets -have been poor; some so poor, as to enrich the world, while they -themselves received so little return from its favour as miserably to -perish of want. Again, the level tenor of a life alike removed from want -and superfluity should seem too devoid of interest or excitement to make -a good poet. Long-lived competency is more favourable to the even temper -of philosophy than the fiery nature of one who must know the storms of -passion, and all the fiercer elements of which the acting and suffering -soul of man is made. Again, it would be curious to know, if it might be -ascertained, whether those men whose inspirations have been aided alone -by the contemplation of the inanimate beauties of nature, and the -phenomena of their own minds and the minds and lives of their fellows, -have been as great poets as those who, besides these sources of -inspiration, fed the power within them with the knowledge of great -writers and poets of other countries and times. Another question, which -it would be interesting to determine, would be, under what species of -government poets have been most numerous, and most honoured. As our -modern exploders of old fallacies have not yet made up their minds -whether such a person as Homer ever lived, it is rather a vain labour of -imagination to determine whether this great king of all poets flourished -under a monarchy or in a republic; certain it is, he sang of kings and -princes in right lordly style: be that as it may, we have rather better -authority for believing that the Greek dramatists, those masters, and -sometime models, of their peculiar branch of the art, flourished under -republican governments; but with them, I think, ends the list of -republican poets of great and universal fame. Rome had no poets till she -had emperors. Italy was, it is true, divided into so called republics -dining the golden age of her literature; but they were so in name alone; -the spirit of equality had long departed from the soil, and they were -merely prouder and more arbitrary aristocracies than have ever existed -under any monarchy in the world. If ever France can be said to have had -a poetical age, it was during the magnificent reign of Louis the -Fourteenth, that pageant that prepared the bloodiest tragedy in the -pages of history. England offers the only exception that I have -advanced, namely, that the republican form of government is inimical to -poetry. For it was during the short and shameful period of fanatical -republicanism, which blots her annals, that the glory and the might of -Milton rose upon the world; he is the only great poet who ever -flourished under a republic; and he was rather the poet of heaven and -hell, than of earth: his subjects are either biblical or mythological; -and however his stern and just spirit might advocate the cause of -equality and universal freedom in the more arid regions of political and -theological controversies, in his noblest and greatest capacity he has -sung of angels and archangels, the starry hierarchy of heaven, where -some of the blessed wore a brighter glory than their fellows, where some -were inferior to other celestial powers, and where God was King supreme -over all. In heaven, Milton dreamt of no republics, nor in hell either. - -[61] It is quite curious to observe how utterly unknown a thing a -_really_ well-broken horse is in this country. I have just bought one -who was highly approved and recommended by several gentlemen considered -here as learned in all these matters; and of my own knowledge, I might -hunt the Union over and not find a better. As far as the make, and -beauty, and disposition of the animal goes, there is no fault to find; -but this _lady's horse_ never had a woman on its back, had never been -ridden but with a snaffle bit, and, until she came into my possession, -did not know how to canter with her right foot. When the Americans say a -horse is well broken, they mean it is not wild. - -[62] The various censures which English travellers have bestowed upon -various things in this country are constantly, both in private -conversation and the public prints, attributed to _English jealousy_. I -confess I have been amused at the charge, and can only sincerely hope I -may not draw down so awful an accusation on myself, when I declare, -that, during a three years' residence in America, almost every article, -of every description, which I have had made, has been ill made, and -obliged to undergo manifold alterations. I don't pretend to account for -the fact, for fear the obvious reasons might appear to find their source -in that very small jealousy of which England is guilty towards this -country, in the person of her journal-scribbling travellers; but to the -fact there is and can be no denial. - -[63] When you carry your complaint of careless work, or want of -punctuality, to the tradespeople whom you employ here, the unfortunate -principals really excite your sympathy by their helpless situation with -regard to the free republicans whom they employ, and who, with the utter -contempt of subordination which the cheapness of living, and the spirit -of license (not liberty) produce among the lower classes here, come when -they please, depart when they like, work when they choose, and, if you -remonstrate, take themselves off to new masters, secure of employment in -your neighbour's house, if your mode of employing them displeases them. -Manifold are the lamentations I have heard, of "Oh, ma'am, this is not -like the old country; we can't get journeymen to work here, ma'am; we're -obliged to do just as our workmen please, ma'am." One poor French -dress-maker appeared to me on the verge of distraction, from the utter -impossibility of keeping in any order a tribe of sewing girls, whom she -seemed to pay on purpose that they might drive her crazy; and my -shoemaker assured me the other day, with a most woful face, that it was -election week, and that if I was as suffering for shoes as a lady could -be, I could not have mine till the political cobblers in his employ had -settled the "business of the nation" to their satisfaction. Patience is -the only remedy. Whoever lives here, that has ever lived elsewhere, -should come provided with it. - -[64] This description may amaze sundry narrow-minded and prejudiced -dwellers in those unhappy countries where standing armies are among the -standing abuses, and the miserable stipendiaries of hoary tyrannies go -about wearing the livery of their trade with a slavish unanimity -becoming alone to hirelings and salaried butchers base. But whoever -should imagine that the members of an enlightened and free republic -must, because they condescend to become soldiers, for the pure love of -their country, behave as soldiers also, would draw foolish conclusions. -Discipline, order, a peculiar carriage, a particular dress, obedience to -superiors, and observance of rules, these, indeed, may all be the -attributes of such miserable creatures as are content to receive wages -for their blood. But for free Americans! why should they not walk -crooked, in the defence of their country, if they don't like to walk -straight? why should they not carry their guns on their shoulders -instead of upright, if they please? and why, since they chose to defend -their lives and liberties by becoming volunteers, should they not stick -any feathers, of any colours that they like in their caps--black, white, -or green? Is the noble occupation of war incompatible with the still -nobler possession of freedom? Heaven forbid! and long live the American -militia, to prove their entire compatibility. - -[65] The militia has fallen into disrepute of late in New York and -Philadelphia. Trainings and parades take too much of the precious time, -whose minutes are cents, and hours dollars. The only instance of humour, -national or individual, which I have witnessed since my abode in this -country, was a sham parade got up in mimicry of the real one here -described. In this grotesque procession, every man was dressed in the -most absurd costume he could devise: banners with the most ludicrous -inscriptions, wooden swords of gigantic dimensions, and children's -twopenny guns, were some of their paraphernalia; and, in the absurd and -monstrous objects the men had made of themselves, with false whiskers, -beards, and noses, I recognised some of the broad, coarse, powerful -humour of the lower orders in the old country. But it is the _only_ -symptom of such a spirit which I have met with. The absolute absence of -imagination, of course, is also the absolute absence of humour. An -American can no more understand a fanciful jest than a poetical idea; -and in society and conversation the strictest matter of fact prevails: -for any thing departing from it, though but an inch, either towards the -sublime or the ridiculous, becomes immediately incomprehensible to your -auditors, who will stare at your enthusiasm, and sincerely ask you the -meaning of your jest. - -[66] A place devoted to political meetings, chiefly, however, I believe, -those termed here "democratic." - -[67] It is the property of perfection alone to rivet the admiration of -absolute ignorance; whence I conclude that the river craft, hovering -from morning till night along the waters that surround New York, must be -the most beautiful in the world. Their lightness, grace, swiftness, and -strength, appear to me unequalled. Such beautiful vessels I never saw; -more beautiful ones I cannot imagine. - -[68] In Canova's group of Cupid and Psyche, the young god is smiling -like a god; but the eager parted lips with which Psyche is seeking his, -wear no such expression--you might fancy they trembled, but they -certainly do not smile. - -[69] The ladies of New York, and all lady-like people there, have agreed -to call this eddy _Hurl_-gate. The superior propriety of this name is -not to be questioned; for hell is a shocking bad word, no doubt: but, -being infinitely more appropriate to the place and its qualities, I have -ventured to mention it. - -[70] The ladies here have an extreme aversion to being called _women_, I -don't exactly understand why. Their idea is, that that term designates -only the lower or less-refined classes of female human-kind. This is a -mistake which I wonder they should fall into; for in all countries in -the world, queens, duchesses, and countesses, are called women; but in -this one alone, washerwomen, sempstresses, and housemaids are entitled -_ladies_; so that, in fact, here woman is by far the more desirable -appellation of the two. - -[71] The established succession of figures which form the _one_ French -quadrille, in executing which the ball-rooms of Paris and London have -spent so many satisfactory hours ever since it was invented, by no means -satisfies the Americans. At the close of almost every quadrille, a -_fancy_ figure is danced, which, depending entirely upon the directions -of the leader of the band, is a very curious medley of all the rest. The -company not being gifted with second sight, and of course not knowing at -every step what next they may be called upon to do, go fearfully sliding -along, looking at each other, asking, "how does it go on?" some _en -avant deux-ing_, while others are starting off _en promenade_, the whole -being a complete confusion of purpose and execution. The common French -figure, the Trenis, is very seldom danced at all,--they do not appear to -know it. - -[72] This terrible nuisance has often made me wish for that "still small -voice," which has become the universal tone of good society in England, -and which, however inconvenient sometimes from its utter inaudibility, -at least did not send one to bed with one's ears ringing and one's head -splitting. I was in a society of about twelve ladies, the other evening, -and the _uproar_ was so excessive that I felt my eyebrows contracting -from a sense of perfect bewilderment, occasioned by the noise all round -me, and more than once was obliged to request the person with whom I was -conversing to stop till the _noise_ had subsided a little, that I might -be able to distinguish what he was saying to me. Were the women here -large and masculine in their appearance, this defect would appear less -strange, though not less disagreeable; but they are singularly delicate -and feminine in their style of beauty; and the noise they make strikes -one with surprise as something monstrous and unnatural--like mice -roaring. They frequently talk four or five at a time, and directly -across each other; neither of which proceedings is exactly according to -my ideas of good breeding. - -[73] Unromantic as these birds are in their external appearance, there -is something poetical in their love of sunny skies. Many attempts have -been made to rear them in England; but I am told that they will not sing -there, or indeed any where but where the sun shines as it does here. - -[74] In speaking of the bad and disagreeable results of the political -institutions of this country, as exhibited in the feelings and manners -of the lower orders, I have every where dwelt upon those which, from my -own disposition, and the opinions and sentiments in which I have been -educated, have struck me most, and most unfavourably. But I should be -sorry to be so blind, or so prejudiced, as not to perceive the great -moral goods which arise from the very same source, and display -themselves strongly in the same class of people: _honesty_ and _truth_, -excellences so great, that the most bigoted worshipper of the forms and -divisions of societies in the old world would surely be ashamed to weigh -them in the balance against the deference there paid to rank or riches, -or even the real and very agreeable qualities of civility and courtesy. -Americans (I speak now of the _people_, not the gentlemen and ladies, -_they_ are neither so honest and true, nor quite so rude,) are indeed -independent. Every man that will work a little can live extremely well. -No portion of the country is yet overstocked with followers of trades, -not even the Atlantic cities. Living is cheap--labour is dear. To -conclude, as the Irish woman said, "It is a darling country for poor -folks; for if I work three days in the week, can't I lie in my bed the -other three if I plase?" This being so, all dealings between -handicraftsmen and those who employ them; tradesmen and those who buy of -them; servants and those who are served by them; are conducted upon the -most entire system of reciprocity of advantage; indeed, if any thing, -the obligation appears always to lie on that party which, with us, is -generally supposed to confer it. Thus,--my shoemaker, a person with whom -I have now dealt largely for two years, said to me the other day, upon -my remonstrating about being obliged regularly to come to his shop and -unboot, whenever I order a new pair of walking-boots--"Well, ma'am, we -can keep your measure certainly, _to oblige you_, but, as a rule, we -don't do it for any of our customers, it's so very troublesome." These -people are, then, as I said before, most truly independent; they are -therefore never servile, and but seldom civil, but for the very same -reason they do not rob you; they do not need to do so; neither do they -lie to you, for your favour or displeasure in no way affects their -interest. If you entrust to their care materials of any sort to make up, -you are sure, no matter how long you may leave them in their hands, or -how entirely you may have forgotten the quantity originally given, to -have every inch of them returned to you: and you are also generally sure -that any question you ask, with regard to the quality of what you -purchase, will be answered without any endeavour to impose upon you, or -palm upon your ignorance that which is worse for that which is better. -Two circumstances, which have come under my own knowledge, will serve to -illustrate the spirit of the people; and they are good illustrations to -quote, for similar circumstances are of daily and hourly occurrence. - -A farmer who is in the habit of calling at our house on his way to -market, with eggs, poultry, etc., being questioned as to whether the -eggs were new-laid, replied, without an instant's hesitation, "No, not -the _very_ fresh ones, _we eat all those ourselves_." - -On returning home late from the play one night, I could not find my -slippers any where, and, after some useless searching, performed my -toilet for bed without them. The next morning, on enquiring of my maid -if she knew any thing of them, she replied with perfect equanimity, that -having walked home through the snow, and got her feet extremely wet, she -had put them on, and forgotten to restore them to their place before my -return. Nobody, I think, will doubt that an English farmer, and an -English servant, might sell stale eggs, and use their mistress's -slippers; but I think it highly doubtful, that either fact would have -been acknowledged with such perfect honesty any where but here. As to -the servants here, except the blacks, and the poor Irish bread-hunters -who come over, there are scarcely any to be found: the very name seems -repugnant to an American; and however high their wages, and easy their -situation, they seem hardly to be able to endure the bitterness of -subserviency and subordination. - -[75] The bridges here are all made of wood, and for the most part -covered. Those which are so are by no means unpicturesque objects. The -one-arched bridge at Fair Mount is particularly light and graceful in -its appearance: at a little distance, it looks like a scarf, rounded by -the wind, flung over the river. - -[76] The time of locking of doors at gentlemen's dinner parties, and -drinking till the company dropped one by one under the table, has, with -the equally disgusting habit of spitting about the floors, long vanished -in England before a more rational hospitality, and a better -understanding of the very first rule of good breeding, not to do that -which is to offend others. Spirituous liquors are the fashion alone -among the numerous frequenters of the gin-palaces of Holborn, and St. -Giles's; even the old-fashioned favourites of our country gentlemen, -port, madeira, and sherry, are found too heavy and strongly-flavoured -for the palate of our modern exquisites,--and the fragrant and delicate -wines of Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Rhine, and its tributary streams, are -the wines now preferred before all others, by persons of refined taste -and moderate indulgence. This in itself is a great improvement. The -gross desire of excitement by a quantity of powerful stimulants has -given place to a temperate enjoyment of things, in themselves certainly -the most excellent in the world. Wine-drinking in England is become -altogether a species of _dilettante_ taste, instead of the disgusting -excess it used to be; it is indulged in with extreme moderation,--and so -much have all coarse and thick-blooded drinks gone out of fashion, that -even liqueurs are very seldom taken after coffee but by foreigners. Our -gentlemen have learnt to consider hard and gross drinking ungentlemanly. -I wish I could say the same of American gentlemen. The quantity and the -quality of their potations are as destructive of every thing like -refinement of palate, as detrimental to their health. Americans are, -generally speaking, the very worst judges of wine in the world, always -excepting madeira, which they have in great perfection, and is the only -wine of which they are tolerable judges. One reason of their ignorance -upon this subject is the extremely indifferent quality of the foreign -wines imported here, and a still more powerful reason, is the total loss -of all niceness of taste consequent upon their continual swallowing of -mint julaps, gin slings, brandy cocktails, and a thousand strong messes -which they take _even before breakfast_, and indifferently at all hours -of the day,--a practice as gross in taste as injurious to health. -Burgundy I have never seen at an American table: I believe it will not -stand the sea voyage. Claret they have now in very great perfection, -thanks to Mr. ----, who has introduced it among them, and deserves to be -considered a public benefactor therefor. Hock is, generally speaking, -utterly undrinkable, and champagne (the only foreign wine of which they -seem generally fond), though some of a good quality is occasionally -presented to you, is for the most part a very nauseous compound, in -which sugar is the only perceptible flavour. Although the American -gentlemen do not indeed lock the doors upon their guests, they have two -habits equally fatal to their sobriety, of which I have heard several -Englishmen complain bitterly. The one is mixing their wines in a most -unorthodox manner, equally distressing to the palate and the stomach; -_i. e._ giving you to drink by turns, after dinner, claret, madeira, -sherry, hock, champagne, all and each of which you are pressed to take -as specimens of excellence in their various ways, forming altogether a -vinous hotch-potch, which confounds alike the taste and the brain. The -second ordeal, to which the sobriety of Englishmen dining out here is -exposed, is at the close of all these various libations,--which of -course last some time,--an instantaneous removal from the dinner to the -supper table, where strong _whisky punch_ effectually _finishes_ the -wits of their guests, and sends them home to repent for two days the -excess of a few hours. Perhaps, when the real meaning of the word -_society_ becomes better understood in this country, absurd display and -disgusting intemperance will no more be resorted to as its necessary -accompaniments; but of course the _real_ material of which society -should be formed must increase a little first. I have been told that the -women in this country drink. I never saw but one circumstance which -would lead me to believe the assertion. At the baths in New York, one -day, I saw the girl who was waiting upon the rooms carry mint julaps (a -preparation of mint, sugar, and brandy,) into three of them. I was much -surprised, and asked her if this was a piece of service she often -performed for the ladies who visited the baths? She said, "Yes, pretty -often." Bar-rooms are annexed to every species of public building,--in -the theatres, in the hotels, in the bath-houses, on board the -steam-boats,--and there are even temporary buildings which serve this -purpose erected at certain distances along the rail-roads. Though the -gentlemen drink more than any other _gentlemen_, the lower orders here -are more temperate than with us. The appearance of a drunken man in the -streets is comparatively rare here; and certainly Sunday is not, as with -us, the appointed day for this disgusting vice among the lower classes -here. Fortunately, most fortunately, it is not with them as with us, the -only day on which the poor have rest, or drunkenness the only substitute -they can find for every other necessary or comfort of life. Our poor are -indeed intemperate. Alas! that vice of theirs will surely be visited on -others; for it is the offspring of their misery. The effects of habitual -intemperance in this country are lamentably visible in many young men of -respectable stations and easy circumstances; and it is by no means -uncommon to hear of young gentlemen--persons who rank as such -here--destroying their health, their faculties, and eventually their -lives, at a most untimely age, by this debasing habit. - -[77] There is a species of home religion, so to speak, which is kept -alive by the gathering together of families at stated periods of joy and -festivity, which has a far deeper moral than most people imagine. The -merry-making at Christmas, the watching out the old year, and in the -new, the royalty of Twelfth-night, the keeping of birth-days, and -anniversaries of weddings, are things which, to the worldly-wise in -these wise times, may savour of childishness or superstition; but they -tend to promote and keep alive some of the sweetest charities and -kindliest sympathies of our poor nature. While we are yet children, -these days are set in golden letters in the calendar,--long looked -forward to,--enjoyed with unmixed delight,--the peculiar seasons of new -frocks, new books, new toys, drinking of healths, bestowing of blessings -and wishes by kindred and parents, and being brought into the notice of -our elders, and, as children used to think in the dark ages, therefore -their betters. To the older portion of the community, such times were -times of many mingled emotions, all, all of a softening if not of so -exhilarating a nature. The cares, the toils, of the world had become -their portion,--some little of its coldness, its selfishness, and sad -guardedness had crept upon them,--distance and various interests, and -the weary works of life had engrossed their thoughts, and turned their -hearts and their feet from the dear household paths, and the early -fellowship of home; but at these seasons the world was in its turn -pushed aside for a moment,--the old thresholds were crossed by those who -had ceased to dwell in the house of their birth,--kindred and friends -met again, as in the early days of childhood and youth, under the same -roof-tree,--the nursery revel, and the school-day jubilee, was recalled -to their thoughts by the joyful voices and faces of a new -generation,--the blessed and holy influences of home flowed back into -their souls, at such a time, by a thousand channels,--the heart was -warmed with the kind old love and fellowship,--face brightened to -kindred face, and hand grasped the hand where the same blood was -flowing, and all the evil deeds of time seemed for a while retrieved. -These were holy and happy seasons. Oh, England! dear, dear England! this -sweet sacred worship, next to that of God the highest and purest, was -long cherished in your soil, where the word home was surely more -hallowed than any other save heaven. Far, far off be the day when a cold -and narrow spirit shall quench in you these dear and good human -yearnings, and make the consecrated earth around our door-stones as -barren as the wide wilderness of life in strange lands. In this country -I have been mournfully struck with the absence of every thing like this -home-clinging. Here are comparatively no observances of tides and times. -Christmas-day is no religious day, and hardly a holiday with them. -New-year's day is perhaps a little, but only a little, more so. For -Twelfth-day, it is unknown; and the household private festivals of -birth-days are almost universally passed by unsevered from the rest of -the toilsome days devoted to the curse of labour. Indeed, the young -American leaves so soon the shelter of his home, the world so early -becomes to him a home, that the happy and powerful influences and -associations of that word to him are hardly known. Sent forth to earn -his existence at the very opening time of mind and heart, like a young -green-house plant just budding that should be thrust out into the colder -air, the blight of worldliness, of coldness, and of care, drive in the -coming blossoms; and if the tree lives, half its loveliness and half its -_usefulness_ are shorn from it. These are some of the consequences of -the universal doom of Americans, to labour for their bread: there are -others and better ones. - -[78] This happened on board a _western_ steam-boat, I beg to observe, if -it happened at all. - -[79] The evanescent nature of his triumph, however an actor may deplore -it, is in fact but an instance of the broad moral justice by which all -things are so evenly balanced. If he can hope for no fame beyond mere -mention, when once his own generation passes away, at least his power, -and his glory, and his reign is in his own person, and during his own -life. There is scarcely to be conceived a popularity for the moment more -intoxicating than that of a great actor in his day, so much of it -becomes mixed up with the individual himself. The poet, the painter, and -the sculptor, enchant us through their works; and, with very very few -exceptions, their works, and not their very persons, are the objects of -admiration and applause: it is to their minds we are beholden; and -though a certain degree of curiosity and popularity necessarily wait -even upon their bodily presence, it is faint compared with that which is -bestowed upon the actor; and for good reasons--he is himself his work. -His voice, his eyes, his gesture, are his art, and admiration of it -cannot be separated from admiration for him. This renders the ephemeral -glory which he earns so vivid, and in some measure may be supposed to -compensate for its short duration. The great of the earth, whose fame -has arisen like the shining of the sun, have often toiled through their -whole lives in comparative obscurity, through the narrow and dark paths -of existence. Their reward was never given to their hands here,--it is -but just glory should be lasting. - -[80] Another house has been opened at Baltimore within the last year, -which, though unfinished at the time of our lodging there, promised to -be extremely comfortable. The building adjoined, and indeed formed, part -of the Exchange; the vestibule of which is the only very beautiful piece -of architecture I have seen here. It is very beautiful. - -[81] This very romantic piece of gallantry (serenading) is very common -in this country. How it comes to be so I can't quite make out; for it is -not at all of a piece with the national manners or tone of feeling. It's -very agreeable, though, and is an anomaly worth cultivating. - -[82] I have heard it several times asserted, that Catholicism was -gaining ground extremely in this country. Surely the Preacher sayeth -well, "The thing which has been, it is that which shall be, and there is -nothing new beneath the sun." Is it not a marvellous thing to think of, -that that mighty tree which has overshadowed the whole of the Christian -world, under whose branches all the European empires were cradled, and -which we have with our own eyes beheld droop, and fade, and totter, as -it does at this moment in the old soils,--is it not strange to think of -the seed being carried, and the roots taking hold in this new earth, -perhaps to send up another such giant shadow over this hemisphere? Its -growth here appears to me almost impossible; for if ever there were two -things more opposite in their nature than all other things, they are the -spirit of the Roman Catholic religion and the spirit of the American -people. It's true, that of the thousands who take refuge from poverty -upon this plenteous land, the greater number bring with them that creed, -but the very air they inhale here presently gives them a political -faith, so utterly incompatible with the spirit of subjection, that I -shall think the Catholic priesthood here workers of miracles, to retain -any thing like the influence over their minds which they possessed in -those countries, where all creeds, political and polemical, have but one -watch-word--faith and submission. - -[83] In most European countries, the seat of government and residence of -the ruling powers and foreign ambassadors is the capital, and generally -the largest, most populous, most wealthy, and most influential city of -the kingdom--the place of all others to which travellers would resort to -become acquainted with its political, literary, and social spirit. In -this, however, as in most other respects, this country differs from all -others; and the spirit of independence, which renders every state a -republic within itself, gives to each its own capital, the superior -merits of which are advocated with no little pride and jealousy by the -natives of the state to which it belongs. Thus, New York, Boston, -Philadelphia, Baltimore, Charleston, and New Orleans, are all capitals; -each of them fulfilling in a much higher degree than Washington the -foreigner's idea of that word. Indeed I cannot conceive any thing that -would more amaze an European than to be transported into Washington, and -told he was in the metropolis of the United States; nor, indeed, could -any thing give him a less just idea of the curious political -construction, and widely-scattered resources, of the country. -Washington, in fact, is to America what Downing and Parliament Streets -are to London--a congregation of government offices; where political -characters, secretaries, clerks, place-holders, and place-seekers, most -do congregate. - -[84] As the winter resort of all the leading political men of the Union, -Washington presents many attractions in point of society. Their wives -and daughters, frequently the reigning beauties of their respective -states and towns, generally accompany them thither during the session; -and this congregating of people from all parts of the country, together -with the foreign ministers residing there, and the travellers drawn -thither from mere curiosity, combine to give more variety to the -gaieties of Washington than those of any of the other cities in the -Union can boast. The Capitol is a favourite lounge in the morning; and -the American lady-politicians are just as zealous in their respective -parties as our own. I don't know, however, that they would much relish -listening to a long debate from that dismal hole, the lantern of the -House of Commons, where one may listen, indeed and even just manage to -see, but where to _be seen_ is an utter impossibility; neither do I -think that many of them would stand for four long hours, as Miss ---- -and poor Lady ---- did, during Brougham's famous reform bill speech. - -[85] The love of the sublime and beautiful, those aspirations after -something more refined, more exalted and perfect, than this world -affords, in short, that spiritual propensity classed in its many and -various manifestations by the phrenologists under the title of -_ideality_, will have some vent, and, under circumstances most adverse -to its existence, will creep out at some channel or another, and -vindicate human nature by flourishing in some shape over the narrowest, -homeliest, lowliest, and least favourable guise it may put on. Certainly -America is nothe country of large idealities,--it is the very reverse; -if I may create a bump, it is the country of large realities, _i. e._ -large acquisitiveness, large causality, large caution, and small -veneration and wonder. Nathless some ideality must needs be, and is, and -it creeps out in Christian names. I have heard sempstresses called -Amanda and Emmeline, and we had a housemaid in New England called -Cynthia. Our village carpenter is named Rudolph; and if the spirit of -the people appears to me unimaginative and unpoetical, I take great -comfort in their fine names. - -[86] I am neither sufficiently interested nor sufficiently well informed -in the politics of this country to have conceived any opinion of General -Jackson, beyond that which the floating discussions of the day might -suggest. Of his merits as a statesman I am totally incapable of judging, -or of the effect which his peculiar policy is calculated to have upon -the country. When first I came here I heard and saw that he was the man -of the people. In the dispute with South Carolina, his firmness and -decision of character struck me a good deal; and when, in consequence of -the temporary distress occasioned by his alteration of the currency, a -universal howl was for a short time raised against him, which he -withstood without a moment's flinching, I honoured him greatly. Of his -measures I know nothing; but firmness, determination, decision, I -respect above all things: and if the old General is, as they say, very -obstinate, why obstinacy is so far more estimable than weakness, -_especially_ in a ruler, that I think he sins on the right side of the -question. - -[87] The national vanity of the French, and pride and prejudice of the -English are proverbial: it is, however, fortunate for both that they -carry these qualities to such an excess, that it is a matter of extreme -difficulty to shake the good opinion which they entertain of themselves. -Thus, foreigners may visit England, as Frenchmen have done, and swear -that the sun never shines there, and that the only ripe fruit the -country affords is roasted apples. John Bull, nothing wroth, wraps -himself still closer in his own dear self-approval, and, in the -plenitude of self-content, drinks his brown stout, and basks by -gas-light. On his part, he goes over to Paris, votes the whole _beau -pays de France_ horrible, because he can't get port wine to drink, or -boiled potatoes to eat; in spite of which, Monsieur does not attempt to -turn him out of his country, but eats his ragouts, and drinks his -chablis, and shrugs his shoulders at the savage islander, from the -seventh heaven of self-satisfaction. It were much to be desired that -Americans had a little _more_ national vanity, or national pride. Such -an unhappily sensitive community surely never existed in this world; and -the vengeance with which they visit people for saying they don't admire -or like them, would be really terrible if the said people were but as -mortally afraid of abuse as they seem to be. I would not advise either -Mrs. Trollope, Basil Hall, or Captain Hamilton, ever to set their feet -upon this ground again, unless they are ambitious of being stoned to -death. I live myself in daily expectation of martyrdom; and as for any -body attempting to earn a livelihood here who has but as much as said he -prefers the country where he was born to this, he would stand a much -better chance of thriving if he were to begin business after confinement -in the penitentiary. This unhappy species of irritability is carried to -such a degree here, that if you express an unfavourable opinion of any -thing, the people are absolutely astonished at your temerity. I -remember, to my no little amusement, a lady saying to me once, "I hear -you are going to abuse us dreadfully; of course, you'll wait till you go -back to England, and then shower it down upon us finely." I assured her -I was not in the least afraid of staying where I was, and saying what I -thought at the same time. - -[88] I have been assured, I know not how truly, that the whole of this -affair originated with an _Englishman_. This piece of information was -given me by a person who said he knew such to be the fact, and also knew -the man. - -[89] It may not be amiss here to say one word with regard to the -_gratitude_ which audiences in some parts of the world claim from -actors, and about which I have lately heard a most alarming outcry. Do -actors generally exercise their profession to please themselves and -gratify their own especial delight in self-exhibition? Is that -profession in its highest walks one of small physical exertion and -fatigue (I say nothing of mental exertion), and in its lower paths is it -one of much gain, glory, or ease? Do audiences, on the other hand, use -to come in crowds to play-houses to see indifferent performers? and when -there, do they, out of pure charity and good-will, bestow their applause -as well as their money upon tiresome performances? I will answer these -points as far as regards myself, and therein express the gratitude which -I feel towards the frequenters of theatres. I individually disliked my -profession, and had neither pride nor pleasure in the exercise of it. I -exercised it as a matter of necessity, to earn my bread,--and verily it -was in the sweat of my brow. The parts which fell to my lot were of a -most laborious nature, and occasioned sometimes violent mental -excitement, always immense physical exertion, and sometimes both. In -those humbler walks of my profession, from whose wearisomeness I was -exempted by my sudden favour with the public, I have seen, though not -known, the most painful drudgery,--the most constant fatigue,--the most -sad contrast between real cares and feigned merriments,--the most -anxious, penurious, and laborious existence imaginable. For the part of -my questions which regarded the audiences, I have only to say, that I -never knew, saw, heard, or read of any set of people who went to a -play-house to see what they did not like; this being the case, it never -occurred to me that our houses were full but as a necessary consequence -of our own attraction, or that we were applauded but as the result of -our own exertions. I was glad the houses were full, because I was -earning my livelihood, and wanted the money; and I was glad the people -applauded us, because it is pleasant to please, and human vanity will -find some sweetness in praise, even when reason weighs its worth most -justly. Thus I cannot say that in general I had any great _gratitude_ -towards my audiences. Once or twice, however, that feeling was excited -between me and my witnesses, and the circumstance of which I have spoken -in my journal was one of the instances. But this was a different matter -altogether. I was no longer before an audience labouring for their -approbation as an actress. I was dragged before so many judges in my own -person, to answer for words spoken in private conversation. The same -clapping of hands, with which they rewarded my exertions in my -profession, was the only method by which they could intimate the "not -guilty," which was their judgment upon the appeal that had been made to -them against me; but with this difference, that I never felt _obliged_ -to them, or _grateful_ for their applause before, and did feel obliged -and grateful for their verdict then. Now, as regards the benefit-nights -of actors, I do not observe that even on these occasions much -_gratitude_ is owing to the people who attend them; for I know, and so -does every member of the profession, that the oldest and best actor on -any stage,--the one who for a series of years has appeared before -audiences to whom his private respectability and worth were well -known,--the longest-established _favourite_ of the public (as they are -termed), will assuredly have empty houses on his benefit-nights, if, -trusting to the feeling of that public, to whom he owes so much -gratitude, he failed to secure the assistance of whatever star -(tragedian, pantomimist, or dancing dog, it matters not which), happens -to be the newest object of attraction. I speak all this more -particularly as regards this country, for it is here that I have heard -most of this species of cant. Gratitude is a good word and an excellent -thing, and neither in speaking or acting should it be misapplied. In the -aristocratical lands over the water, this nonsense about patronage might -surprise one less; but in America it seems strange there should be any -mistake about a simple matter of traffic--'tis nothing in life else. We -give our health, our strength, our leisure, and our pleasure, for your -money and your applause, neither of which do we beg or borrow from you. -This being the case, where lies the obligation, and where the gratitude? -As to the pretty speeches which actors make when called from behind the -curtain, they always appeared to me very much of the same order as -advertisements in newspapers--A. D. returns his grateful acknowledgments -to the public for their liberal support, etc., etc. That calling -performers on after a play is a foreign, not an English, custom, and, to -my mind, one more honoured in the breach than in the observance. -Extraordinary occasions might warrant extraordinary demonstrations; but -it is a pity to make that a common ceremony, which, rarely granted, -would be a gratifying testimony of feeling, and excite rational -_gratitude_ in those on whom it was conferred. - -[90] I would recommend Retsch's etchings of Macbeth to the study of all -representatives of the witches: there is great sublimity and fearfulness -in their figures and attitudes. By the by, in looking over those unique -etchings (I mean _all_ those he has executed), the colossal genius of -Shakspeare is brought more fully in its vastness to our conviction; for -the genius of the artist,--which has fallen no whit behind the first -work of one of the first men of this age,--sinks in utter impotence -under the task of illustrating Shakspeare. The wonder, and the beauty, -and the pity of Faust, are as strong and true in the outlines of Retsch, -as in the words of Goethe--the drawings equal the poem; 'tis the highest -praise they can receive: and it is only when we turn from these perfect -works, to contemplate his outlines of Shakspeare, that we feel, by the -force of comparison, how unutterably beyond all other conceptions are -those of Shakspeare. Retsch's etchings, both of Hamlet and Macbeth, are, -compared with his German illustrations, failures. Hamlet is the better -of the two; but he seems to have quailed under the other in utter -inability--Macbeth himself falls far short of all that he should be made -to express; and as to Lady Macbeth, Retsch seems to have thought he had -better not meddle with her. - -[91] I wonder how long it will be before men begin to consider the -rational education of the mothers of their children a matter of some -little moment. How much longer are we to lead existences burdensome to -ourselves and useless to others, under the influence of every species of -ill training that can be imagined? How much longer are the physical -evils under which our nature labours to be increased by effeminate, -slothful, careless, unwholesome habits? How much longer are our minds, -naturally weakened by the action of a highly sensitive nervous -construction, to be abandoned, or rather devoted, to studies the least -likely to strengthen and ennoble them, and render them independent, in -some measure, of the infirmities of our bodies? How much longer are our -imaginations and feelings to be the only portions of our spiritual -nature on which culture is bestowed? Surely it were generous in those -who are our earthly disposers to do something to raise us from the state -of half-improvement in which we are suffered to linger. If our -capacities are inferior to those of men,--which I believe, as much as I -believe our bodies to be inferior to theirs in strength, swiftness, and -endurance,--let us not be overwhelmed with all the additional shackles -that foolish and vain bringing up can add; let us at least be made as -strong in body and as wise in mind as we can, instead of being devoted -to spiritual, mental, and physical weakness, far beyond that which we -inherit from nature. - -[92] Was it not Mme. de Sevigne who said, with such truth and bitter -satire, "Mme de ---- s'est jetee dans la devotion, c'est-a-dire, elle a -change d'amant"? - -[93] The cleanliness of the table furniture, and the neatness of the -attendants, is one of the most essential comforts of these boats. The -linen, and knives and forks, etc. at our meals, were remarkably clean -and bright. On more than one occasion, too, being rather late for the -public breakfast, we have been indulged with a small separate table in -the quiet recess at the end of the great eating and sleeping cabin,--a -favour only to be appreciated by people unaccustomed to any ordinaries, -much less steam-boat dinner-tables with sometimes near two hundred -guests. On board all the other boats, the only alternative is to have -what you eat brought to you into the ladies' cabin. To those who have -once breathed the atmosphere of a "ladies' cabin," it will be difficult -to imagine how such an alternative should not be productive of an -amazing saving of the boat's provisions. - -[94] My astonishment was unfeigned, when, upon an after inspection, I -found this very lofty gateway was constructed of _painted wood_. What! a -cheat, a sham thing at the threshold of the grave!--surely, thereabouts -pretences should have an end. Sham magnificence, too, is sad; an iron -railing, or a wooden paling, would, to my mind, have been a thousand -times better than this _mock granite_. Let us hope that this is merely a -temporary entrance,--there is _real_ granite enough to be had at Quincy; -and if the living can't afford it, why the dead will never miss it,--and -any thing would be better than an imitation gateway. - -[95] The spirit of man of its own dignity ennobles whatever it devotes -itself to. The most trivial actions may become almost heroical from the -motive which prompts them, and the most absurd ceremonies of -superstition, sincerely practised, may excite pity, but neither contempt -nor ridicule. If such a thing as an enthusiastic shoemaker were to be -met with, there is no doubt but his feeling of his craft would elevate -it into something approximating an art, and his work would bear witness -to his veneration for it. At the time when the stage was in its highest -perfection, its members had _all_ a great love and admiration for their -profession; many of them were men of education and mental -accomplishment, and brought to bear upon their labour all the -intellectual stores which they possessed. They respected their own work, -and it was respectable; they thought acting capable of elevation, of -refinement, of utility, and their faith in it invested it with dignity. -Of this class were all my father's family. _One_ reason why the stage -and every thing belonging to it has fallen to so low an ebb now, is -because actors have ceased to care for their profession -themselves,--they are no longer artists,--acting is no longer an art. - -[96] Besides the advantage of possessing the very prettiest collection -of actresses I ever saw, the theatre at Boston has decidedly the best -company I have played with _any where_ out of London. Some of the old -leaven alluded to in the last note exists amongst the ladies and -gentlemen of the Tremont theatre: they do not seem to despise their -work, and it is, generally speaking, well done therefore. Our pieces -were all remarkably well got up there; and the green-room is both -respectable and agreeable. - -[97] To the English traveller, around whose heart the love of -country and the influences of early association may yet cling, New -England appears to me, of all the portions of the United States -which I have visited, most likely to afford gratification; and the -_Yankees_,--properly so called,--the Americans with whom he will find, -and towards whom he will feel, most sympathy. They do us the honour to -call themselves _purely English_ in their origin; they alone, of the -whole population of the United States, undoubtedly were so; and in the -abundant witness which their whole character, country, and institutions -bear to that fact, I feel an additional reason to be proud of -England,--of Old England, for these are her children,--this race of men, -as a race incomparably superior to the other inhabitants of this -country. In conversing with New Englandmen, in spite of any passing -temporary bitterness, any political difference, or painful reference to -past times of enmity, I have always been struck with the admiring and, -in some measure, tender feeling with which England, as the -mother-country, was named. Nor is it possible to travel through the New -England states, and not perceive, indeed, a spirit (however modified by -different circumstances and institutions) yet most truly English in its -origin. The exterior of the houses,--their extreme neatness and -cleanliness,--the careful cultivation of the land,--the tasteful and -ornamental arrangement of the ground immediately surrounding the -dwellings, that most English of all manifestations,--above all, the -church spires pointing towards heaven, from the bosom of every -village,--recalled most forcibly to my mind my own England, and -presented images of order, of industry, of taste, and religious feeling, -nowhere so exhibited in any other part of the Union. I visited Boston -several times, and mixed in society there, the tone of which appeared to -me far higher than that of any I found elsewhere. A general degree of -cultivation exists among its members, which renders their intercourse -desirable and delightful. Nor is this superior degree of education -confined to Boston: the zeal and the judgment with which it is being -propagated throughout that part of the country is a noble national -characteristic. A small circumstance is a good illustration of the -advance which knowledge has made in these states. Travelling by land -from New Haven to Boston, at one of the very smallest places where we -stopped to change horses, I got out of the carriage to reconnoitre our -surroundings. The town (if town it could be called) did not appear to -contain much more than fifty houses: amongst the most prominent of -these, however, was a bookseller's shop. The first volumes I took up on -the counter were Spurzheim's volume on education, and Dr. Abercrombie's -works on the intellectual and moral faculties, I saw more pictures, more -sculptures, and more books in private houses in Boston than I have seen -any where else. I could name more men of marked talent that I met with -there than any where else. Its charitable and literary institutions are -upon a liberal scale, and enlightened principles. Among the New -Englanders I have seen more honour and reverence of parents, and more -witnesses of a high religions faith, than among any other Americans with -whom I have lived and conversed. - -[98] There are, I believe, no primroses, no wild thyme, and no heather, -that grow naturally in this country. I do not remember to have seen -either wild honeysuckle or clematis, both of which are so abundant with -us. The laurestinus, rosemary, southernwood, and monthly roses, all of -which are so common in England, growing out of doors all the year round, -are kept in hot-houses during the winter, even as far south as -Philadelphia. The common garden flowers--roses, pinks--are far less -abundant and less fragrant than with us. Sweet peas, and mignonette, are -comparatively scarce; serynga, and laburnum, I have never seen at all: -but so little care is bestowed upon ornamental gardening, that I do not -know whether this dearth of flowers is the fault of the climate, or the -consequence of the utter neglect in which flower-gardens are held here. - -[99] Lacking the nightingale and the lark, I think they want the two -perfect specimens of natural music. - -[100] Among the many signs of the total decay of dramatic mind and -spirit in this age, a frequent piece of criticism passed upon modern -plays appears to me a very conclusive one--"Such a play is exceedingly -full of dramatic effect, but there's no poetry in it." "Such a -playwright understands situation and character, but really, reading his -plays, you find no poetry in them." I have heard this bright comment -passed repeatedly upon the best dramatic composition of modern -times,--the Hunchback; a play whose immense popularity every where is -the surest and truest warrant of its excellence,--a play containing the -most dramatic situations, the most pathetic and comic effects, and by -far the finest conception of a female character of any play since the -old golden dramatic age. I do not hesitate to say that this is a most -false piece of criticism, induced alone by a want of perception of what -are the requisites in a dramatic poem, and a total absence of true -dramatic feeling. First, in the ingredients of a fine play, comes the -fiction,--the invention; to this belong those same much-sneered-at stage -effects, and theatrical situations; next comes the skilful and powerful -delineation of individual character; _lastly_ comes the item of a -poetical diction. _One_ alone has united these in their utmost -perfection; for such another the world may look in vain. But I think the -play-goers of Shakspeare's time would have been tolerably satisfied with -a most interesting fiction, and a true and vigorous delineation of -character; and let me ask, is there no poetry besides that of words?--is -there no poetry in the fable of a play--none in the faithful portraying -of a human being's mind and passions? As for all pretty speeches, -lengthy descriptions, abstract disquisitions,--unless things placed in -the mouth of characters to whose identity such mental manifestations -belong,--they are inadmissible in a right good play, and should by all -means be confined to the pages of those anomalous modern growths, plays -for the closet. In all our elder dramatists, Shakspeare alone excepted, -the main quality of a play, the story, is often defective to an excess, -not only in morality, but in probability and consistency; and the same -defects exist in the delineation of character in many of their noblest -plays. - -[101] Of the mental process which the pupils at this highland school -undergo, I can say nothing, being totally unacquainted with the system -of education adopted there; but a more advantageous residence for the -cultivation of health, strength (for physical education), or the -development of all those pious and poetical tendings of the human soul -and mind which are fostered and ripened by the sublime influence of -natural beauty and grandeur, cannot be imagined. The gentlemen at the -head of this establishment are New Englanders. The observations I made -upon the superior intelligence and cultivation of the natives of that -part of the United States have been borne out constantly by the fact, -that there is hardly any establishment in the States I have visited, in -any way connected with education, or the dissemination of information, -which is not conducted partially or entirely by New Englanders. - -[102] Troy! and that Troy has a Mount Ida! The names of places in this -country are truly astonishing. Troy, Syracuse, and Rome are pretty well -in this way; but the state of New York alone, I believe, boasts of a -Manlius, a Homer, a Virgil, an Ovid, a Cicero, and a Socrates, whose -second appearance in this world is in all the glories of flaming red -bricks, new boards, and white paint. Did Pythagoras admit of men -becoming towns as well as beasts? I forget. - -[103] These beautiful little delicate wild flowers seem to love the dewy -neighbourhood of waterfalls: it is only at Trenton, and the Chaudiere in -Canada, that I remember to have seen them at all in this country. Some -poor Scotch peasants, about to emigrate to Canada, took away with them -some roots of the "bonny blooming heather," in hopes of making this -beloved adorner of their native mountains the cheerer of their exile in -the wild lands to which they were going. The heather, however, refused -to grow in the Canadian soil, and the poor emigrants had not the -melancholy pleasure of seeing its sweet familiar bloom round their new -dwellings. The person who told me this said that the circumstance had -been related to him by Walter Scott, whose sympathy with the -disappointment of these poor children of the romantic heatherland -betrayed itself even in tears. When I visited the beautiful falls of the -Chaudiere, our party was enlivened, and the picturesque effect of the -scene much heightened, by some of the Highland band belonging to the -regiment quartered in Quebec. I could not help wondering, as I gathered -the blue bells, which grew profusely round the cataract, whether these -poor fellows looked upon the emblem of their distant country with any of -the feelings which I lent them; and the whole brought back to my mind -the heather that would not gladden the exile's eyes in a foreign soil, -and the compassion of Scott for his countrymen's disappointment. - -[104] I do not know that the sense of danger has ever been so vivid in -my mind as while walking along this narrow edge of eternity. Nothing -around Niagara appeared to me half so full of peril as the path along -the Trenton Falls, although I have hung over the brink of the last rock -that vibrates on the very verge of that great abyss, and explored, -entirely alone, the path under the huge watery curtain that falls from -Table Rock. I do not know whether the mention of the late accidents at -Trenton affected my imagination, and caused me to exaggerate the danger; -but it appeared to me almost miraculous that every body passing along -those narrow, dripping, uneven ledges did not share the fate of the two -unfortunate persons I have mentioned. - -[105] Thank God! a firebrand, which shall throw all England into -confusion and anarchy, is not, indeed, of easy make. Italy, crushed -under the heel of her northern rulers; or France, blown about with every -breath of opinion, may rush into revolutions for a ballad or an opera. -The misery of the one, and the miserable excitability of the other -nation, render it easy to rouse, in the former, the spirit of -retribution; in the latter, the desire of change. But Englishmen, who -are neither slaves nor weathercocks, are less easily stirred to wild -excesses of political excitement. Let who will steer, the old ship is -too well ballasted to sink. Whoever rules, whatever party may be at the -head of her government, England is sound at heart: there is a broad -foundation of moral good and intelligence in the nation, which will not -be shaken or upturned, let factions erect or pull down what temporary -trophies they please, to their own short-lived and selfish triumphs. The -file of the mechanic may still gnaw angrily at the iron crown of the -aristocracy; interests of classes may still jar, parties wrangle, and -the eternal warfare between those who climb, and those who stand upon -the topmost round of the ladder, may still be waged. And so be it: in -none of these is there fear or danger; but rather a wholesome action of -power against power; a checking, winnowing, purifying, and preserving -influence. Moral evil, vice--and mental evil, ignorance--are the roots -of decay: surely England is far from the day of her downfalling. - -[106] I have had occasion to observe, in a former note, that foreigners -travelling through this country see only the least desirable society of -the various cities they visit. There is another class of Americans, whom -they rarely, if ever, become acquainted with at all; by far the most -interesting, in my opinion, which the country affords. I speak of those -families thickly scattered through all the states, from whose original -settlers many of them are immediately descended; who reside upon lands -purchased by their grandfathers in the early days of the _British -colonies_; and who, living remote from the Atlantic cities, and the more -travelled routes between them, are free from all the peculiarities which -displease a European in the societies of the towns, and possess traits -of originality in their manners, minds, and mode of life, infinitely -refreshing to the observer, wearied of the eternal sameness which -pervades the human congregations of the Old World. - -In mixing with the commercial fashionables and exclusives of the -American cities, the European is at once amused and annoyed with the -assumption of a social tone and spirit at variance with the whole _make_ -of the country. He is told that he is in the best society of the place, -and with perfect justice condemns this best society as, probably, the -worst he ever saw: a society assuming the airs of separate rank where no -rank at all exists, attempting to copy the luxury and splendour of the -residents of European capitals, without possessing one tithe of their -wealth to excuse the extravagance, or enable them to succeed in the -endeavour, and presenting the most incongruous and displeasing mixture -possible of pretension, ignorance, affectation, and vulgarity. I have -before said, that even in the cities there are circles of a very -different order; but yet freer from all these drawbacks is the society -formed by the class of people of whom I have spoken above, and whom I -should designate as the gentry of this country; using that term in the -best sense in which it was once used in England. - -Among this large but widely-scattered portion of the community, should -the European traveller's good fortune lead him, he will find hospitality -without ostentation, purity of morals independent of the dread of -opinion, intellectual cultivation unmixed with the desire of display, -great simplicity of life and ignorance of the world, originality of mind -naturally arising from independence and solitude, and _the best_, -because the most natural, manners. Of such, I know, from the lower -shores of the Chesapeake, to the half savage territory around -Michilimakinack. - -[107] This spot is famous as the scene of the last exploit of a singular -individual, known by the name of Sam Patch. An Irishman by birth, I -believe, he came over to this country to earn his bread, and hit upon a -very ingenious method of doing so, _i. e._ jumping for large wagers down -cataracts; which daring feat he performed successfully more than once. -But, like the Sicilian diver of old, poor Sam Patch took one plunge too -many; and, after leaping with impunity from the rocks immediately below -the Falls of Niagara, he found his death in the Genesee--attempting the -leap, it is said, while in a state of intoxication. - -[108] Although nobody, I believe, ever travelled a hundred miles by land -in this country without being overturned, the drivers deserve infinite -credit for the _rare occurrence_ of accidents. How they can carry a -coach at all over some of their roads is miraculous; and high praise is -due to them both for care and skill, that any body, in any part of this -country, ever arrives at the end of a land journey at all. I do not ever -remember to have seen six-in-hand driving except in New England, where -it is common, and where the stage-drivers are great adepts in their -mystery. - - - - -+-------------------------------------------------+ -|Transcriber's note: | -| | -|Obvious typographic errors have been corrected. | -| | -+-------------------------------------------------+ - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A RESIDENCE IN AMERICA*** - - -******* This file should be named 51932.txt or 51932.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/1/9/3/51932 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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