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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #53631 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/53631)
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Canyon de Chelly, by Zorro A. Bradley
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Canyon de Chelly
- The Story of its Ruins and People
-
-Author: Zorro A. Bradley
-
-Release Date: November 29, 2016 [EBook #53631]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CANYON DE CHELLY ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, MFR and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
- _Canyon de Chelly_
-
-
- The Story of its Ruins and People
-
- by Zorro A. Bradley
-
-
- Office of Publications
- National Park Service
- U.S. Department of the Interior
- Washington, D.C.,
- 1973
-
- _Library of Congress Catalog Card Number_ 73-600078
-
-
-
-
- Contents
-
-
- Discovery of the Ruins 3
- The Principal Ruins 7
- White House 7
- Antelope House 9
- Standing Cow 12
- Big Cave 13
- Mummy Cave 15
- The People of Canyon de Chelly 17
- The Anasazi 18
- The Navajos 27
- Further Reading 57
- Maps 8, 24, 39
-
-
-_Far up above me, a thousand feet or so, set in a great cavern in the
-face of the cliff, I saw a little city of stone asleep. It was as still
-as sculpture—and something like that. It all hung together, seemed to
-have a kind of composition: pale little houses of stone nestling close
-to one another, perched on top of each other, with flat roofs, narrow
-windows, straight walls, and in the middle of the group, a round
-tower...._
-
-_In sunlight it was the colour of winter oak leaves. A fringe of cedars
-grew along the edge of the cavern, like a garden. They were the only
-living things. Such silence and stillness and repose—immortal repose.
-That village sat looking down into the canyon with the calmness of
-eternity.... I had come upon the city of some extinct civilization,
-hidden away in this inaccessible mesa for centuries, preserved in the
-dry air and almost perpetual sunlight like a fly in amber, guarded by
-the cliffs and the river and the desert._
-
- —_Willa Cather_
-
-
-Quotation from _The Professor’s House_, 1925, by permission of Alfred A.
- Knopf, New York.
-
- [Illustration: The righthand section of Mummy Cave Ruin as it was
- photographed by Ben Wittick in 1882 during the James Stevenson
- Survey for the Smithsonian Institution.]
-
-
-
-
- Discovery of the Ruins
-
-
-Canyon de Chelly National Monument is located in the red rock country of
-northeastern Arizona’s high plateau, near the center of the Navajo
-Indian Reservation. Included in its 131 square miles are three
-spectacular canyons—Canyon de Chelly, Canyon del Muerto, and Monument
-Canyon—and many ruins of long-deserted villages. Perched in alcoves and
-on high ledges along the sheer-walled canyons, these villages are
-evidence of man’s ability to adjust to a difficult environment, using
-bare hands, simple stone age tools, and his own ingenuity. They stand as
-enduring monuments to the culture of the ancestors of the present-day
-Pueblo Indians of the southwestern United States.
-
-The ancestors of the Navajo Indians who now live in the shadows of these
-deep canyons came here long after the earlier peoples had left.
-Originally the Navajos did not live in the canyon, but only passed
-through it on their yearly migrations. Today some live here permanently,
-and their hogans are scattered along the sandy canyon floor, almost
-hidden by the thick growth of willows and cottonwoods and detectable
-only by a column of smoke slowly rising from a cook fire or by the
-barking of dogs. Occasionally one may catch a glimpse of a brightly
-dressed woman working around the hogan or of black-hatted men trotting
-their horses between the nearby trading post, cornfields, or peach
-orchards. A reserved and dignified people, they still live in the
-tradition of their fathers.
-
-The main canyon’s name, de Chelly, stems from the Navajo word “Tsegi”
-(pronounced tsay-yih or tsay-yhi and meaning “Rock Canyon”), the name by
-which they know the canyon network. Two centuries of Spanish and English
-usage have corrupted both the form and pronunciation. Most people now
-pronounce it “dah-SHAY” or “d’SHAY.”
-
-The first Europeans to see the extensive ruins in Canyon de Chelly are
-unknown. A Spanish map of 1776 indicates its location, and other
-documents reveal that Spanish military expeditions sometimes passed
-through the neighborhood. In 1805, Spanish troops entered the canyon
-while trying to suppress Navajo raids. During the period of Mexican rule
-(1821-46), a number of military expeditions against the Navajo invaded
-the Canyon de Chelly region. Though the ruins had not been described in
-writing, the area was fairly well known, and by 1846, when the “Army of
-the West” brought the region under United States control, there were
-many tall tales and rumors about the wonderful cities built in the
-cliffs.
-
- [Illustration: Archeological excavations in Canyon del Muerto,
- 1929.]
-
-In 1849, the New Mexico territorial government found it necessary to
-request that a U.S. Army expedition be sent to subdue the Navajos. Lt.
-J. H. Simpson of the Topographical Engineers accompanied the troops. His
-journal, published in 1850, contained the first detailed account of some
-of the Canyon de Chelly ruins.
-
-After Simpson’s visit, other military expeditions and a few civilian
-parties probably entered the canyons. No archeological investigations
-were made, however, until 1882, when James Stevenson surveyed the area
-for the Smithsonian Institution, making sketches, photographs, and
-ground plans of 46 ruins in the two main canyons.
-
-Stevenson found two mummies in a rock shelter ruin in the northern
-canyon. Because of this find the ruin is known as Mummy Cave, and
-Stevenson gave the canyon a Spanish name, Canyon de los Muertos, or
-canyon of the dead men. The name has since been shortened to del Muerto.
-
- [Illustration: First Ruin in the lower part of Canyon de Chelly. It
- has 10 rooms and two kivas.]
-
-Later in 1882, Cosmos Mindeleff, also from the Smithsonian and a member
-of Stevenson’s party, mapped the canyons and showed the locations of
-some of the larger ruins. Mindeleff’s monumental architectural survey of
-the ruins of Canyon de Chelly was published in 1896, after two more
-visits.
-
-Much of our knowledge about material objects used by the early Puebloan
-inhabitants of the canyons comes from the work of the late Earl H.
-Morris, who excavated a number of the important cave sites in the
-1920’s. Since then a comprehensive survey of the monument has been
-carried out by David L. De Harport for the Peabody Museum of Harvard
-University, and additional excavations have been conducted by National
-Park Service archeologists.
-
- [Illustration: The upper and lower White House ruins were probably
- connected when the ancient Indians lived there.]
-
-
-
-
- The Principal Ruins
-
-
-Within the national monument are perhaps 800 prehistoric and historic
-Indian village sites, representing various stages of Pueblo and later
-Navajo cultural development and spanning a period of about 1,800 years.
-The most interesting and important ruins are described below.
-
-
-WHITE HOUSE
-
-Located up the main canyon, about 6 miles from Park Service
-headquarters, White House is one of the largest, best preserved, and
-most accessible ruins in the monument.
-
- [Illustration: A kiva at the White House ruin, where religious and
- other ceremonies were held.]
-
-Lt. J. H. Simpson described this ruin after his 1849 visit, calling it
-Casa Blanca (White House). It is also known by its Navajo name,
-Kini-na-e-kai. Both names derive from a conspicuous white-plastered wall
-in the upper portion.
-
-White House was constructed in two sections; one stands against the base
-of the cliff on the canyon floor, and the other is in a small cave
-immediately above. Mindeleff estimated that at one time the whole ruin
-contained as many as 80 rooms. Much of the lower building has probably
-been washed away by the stream nearby (a retaining wall now helps to
-prevent this), but evidence of about 60 rooms and 4 kivas (special
-ceremonial chambers) still survives.
-
-Behind the back walls of the lower ruin the smooth cliff face rises 35
-feet to the floor of the cave above. Marks on the face indicate that at
-one time the rooms of the lower building stood several stories high, and
-its roof came to within 4 feet of the cave floor above.
-
- [Illustration: This map shows only the principal ruins in the
- canyons that are open to visitors. Only some of these are discussed
- in the text. The rock formations of these canyons eroded easily,
- thus producing the steep cliffs and cave formations that provided
- protection for the Anasazi.]
-
-The upper ruin contains 10 rooms and has a large room nearly in the
-center of the cave. The outside front wall of this room is 12 feet high
-and still has the coating of white gypsum clay plaster with a decorative
-band of yellow clay for which the ruin was named.
-
-At the western edge of the lower ruin are the partial remains of two
-well-built kivas. One kiva used to have holes in the floor like those
-used to support looms in modern Pueblo kivas. The other kiva shows
-evidence of six layers of plaster. Modern Zuni Indians have a ceremony
-every 4 years in which they replaster the smoke-stained kiva interior,
-and this tradition may give some idea of how long this kiva was in use.
-
-A study of the annual growth rings of its roof timbers indicates that
-most of the lower ruin was built after A.D. 1070.
-
-
-ANTELOPE HOUSE
-
-Many large ruins are located in the narrow and twisting Canyon del
-Muerto. One of the biggest is Antelope House, some 5 miles above del
-Muerto’s junction with Canyon de Chelly. This 40- to 50-room village was
-built on the stream bank against the base of a cliff which towers nearly
-600 feet above it.
-
-Antelope House received its name from four antelopes painted in tan and
-white, about half life size, high on the cliff nearby. Navajo families
-living in the canyon believe that these well-executed paintings were
-done by Dibe Yazhi (Little Sheep), a Navajo artist who lived here in the
-1830’s. Other figures in white paint are probably the work of the
-prehistoric inhabitants of Antelope House.
-
-Because it stands on the river bank, Antelope House has also eroded
-badly. Yet many of the house walls still rise two and three stories
-high, and the masonry outlines of dozens of unexcavated rubble-filled
-rooms and of two kivas can still be seen.
-
- [Illustration: Antelope House in Canyon del Muerto is on the canyon
- floor under a towering, overhanging cliff.]
-
- [Illustration: An Anasazi pictograph.]
-
-The famous “Burial of the Weaver” was found in a small cliff alcove not
-far from Antelope House. The grave was against the cliff, and a curved
-masonry wall in front held back the earth. Inside was the tightly flexed
-body of an old man lying on his left side. His hair was streaked with
-gray and tied back in a bob; a billet of wood served as a pillow. The
-body’s outer wrapping was a feather blanket made from the breast down of
-golden eagles. Under the feather cloth was a white cotton blanket,
-excellently made and appearing as clean and new as if freshly woven; and
-under the white blanket was an old gray cotton blanket. Beneath that
-blanket, lying on the mummy’s breast, was a single ear of corn.
-
-A reed mat covered the floor of the grave, and the amount and variety of
-objects laid away with the body suggest that the individual was highly
-respected in life. A long wooden digging stick, broken to fit into the
-grave, lay across the burial bundle. Beside this, and also broken, was a
-bow so thick that only a powerful arm could have pulled it. With the bow
-was a single reed arrow with a fire-hardened wooden point. Five pottery
-jars, one broken, together with four bowl-shaped baskets woven from
-yucca leaves, were also in the grave. These containers were filled with
-cornmeal, shelled corn, four ears of husked corn, pinyon nuts, beans,
-and salt. Tightly packed around the body and offerings were thick skeins
-of cotton yarn which measured more than 2 miles in length. A spindle
-whorl—a wooden disc on a reed stem which probably had been used to spin
-the cotton—lay on the yarn.
-
- [Illustration: A National Park Service archeologist examines a
- storage jar found at Antelope House.]
-
-
-STANDING COW
-
-This cave in Canyon del Muerto was named for a large white and blue
-pictograph of a cow, drawn in the historic period and undoubtedly the
-work of a Navajo. Not much can be seen of this ancient ruin, for Navajos
-have lived on the site in recent times and still use the old bins for
-storing corn and the leveled areas for drying peaches.
-
-On the cliff near this ruin is an interesting old Navajo painting of
-Spanish cavalrymen.
-
- [Illustration: This blue-headed cow, painted by an early Navajo
- artist on the shelter wall, gave Standing Cow Ruin its name.]
-
- [Illustration: This Navajo rock painting in Canyon del Muerto shows
- a procession of soldiers. It probably records a Spanish expedition
- in the 19th century.]
-
-
-BIG CAVE
-
-One of the largest concentrations of very early material at Canyon de
-Chelly came from Big Cave (Tse-Ya-Tso) in Canyon del Muerto. Tree-ring
-dates ranging from A.D. 331 to 835 indicate an intensive occupation of
-the site in Basketmaker times.
-
-Several burials of interest were found at Big Cave. One was of an old
-man who had broken both legs across the shin bones. The fractures were
-set so well that only the smallest of bumps were left.
-
-The remains of 14 infants were found in a slab-lined cist used earlier
-as a storage bin. Below the infants were the bodies of four other
-children packed in an enormous basket. None showed any signs of
-violence, and it is thought that some disease must have swept through
-the cave, killing many children in a short time.
-
-The unique “Burial of the Hands” was discovered in another part of Big
-Cave. This burial consisted of just a pair of arms and hands lying side
-by side on a bed of grass. The elbows touched the wall of the cave in a
-way that suggested that the rest of the body had not been removed at a
-later time. Three necklaces of abalone shell pendants were wrapped
-around the wrists, and two pairs of exceptionally fine, unworn sandals,
-patterned in black and red, were lying beside the hands, as was a small
-basket half full of white shell beads. Another basket nearly 2 feet in
-diameter covered the burial. No satisfactory explanation of this burial
-has ever been advanced.
-
- [Illustration: Excavations at Big Cave in Canyon del Muerto yielded
- valuable artifacts of the Basketmaker period.]
-
- [Illustration: Mummy Cave, bathed in sun with its flanking ruins
- almost hidden in shadows.]
-
-
-MUMMY CAVE
-
- [Illustration: This fretwork design decorates a kiva in Mummy Cave.]
-
- [Illustration: The central tower structure at Mummy Cave shows
- strong Mesa Verde affiliations and was constructed in A.D. 1284.]
-
-One of the most beautifully situated ruins in the national monument is
-Mummy Cave in Canyon del Muerto 21 miles northeast of park headquarters.
-This dwelling, the largest in the canyons, was built in two adjacent
-caves about 300 feet up a talus slope from the streambed.
-
-The largest part of the structure, about 55 rooms and 4 kivas, was built
-in the eastern cave. The western cave, with about 20 rooms, is now
-accessible only by a ledge from the east cave, although traces of an
-eroded hand-and-toe trail can be seen leading directly from the top of
-the talus to the ruin. Along the ledge connecting the two caves are 15
-rooms, including a “tower” house; these are the best preserved of all
-the ruins here. Much original plaster in several colors remains on inner
-and outer walls throughout the village. Especially notable is the white
-clay plaster on the interior of the third story of the tower house and
-the red-painted fret design on white plaster in the large kiva of the
-east cave.
-
- [Illustration: A Navajo family has settled below the ruins of the
- ancient ones in Canyon del Muerto.]
-
-
-
-
- The People of Canyon de Chelly
-
-
-Though the stunning sheer red cliffs of Canyon de Chelly are easily the
-national monument’s most spectacular feature, the area was set aside for
-its importance to the study of prehistoric peoples in the Southwest. The
-architecture, tools, clothing, ceramics, and other decorative or useful
-objects found here contain a comprehensive record of many hundreds of
-years of human activity.
-
-Nothing was known about the ancient culture sheltered here until
-archeologists began piecing together the information gleaned from Canyon
-de Chelly’s many ruins and burials. Their story survived because these
-people lived in a physical environment that posed a minimal threat to
-normally fragile remains.
-
-Wherever the remains of ancient man occur in the open, building ruins
-and some objects of stone, bone, and pottery survive, but those of wood
-and fiber disappear completely. Most of what we know about peoples from
-the dim past thus comes from materials that have been buried and
-protected. For the archeologist there are few better sources of
-information than formal burials, which often contain extensive
-offerings, and situations like those at Canyon de Chelly and Canyon del
-Muerto, where sites served as dwelling places for long periods of time
-and the steady accumulation of refuse buried layers of cultural debris.
-
-The extremely arid conditions in the caves of these canyons offered
-additional protection. The climate here is so dry that human burials are
-perfectly preserved as natural mummies or desiccated bodies (there being
-no attempt at artificial preservation by these people), and such fragile
-buried objects as baskets more than a thousand years old are in good
-condition.
-
-The people who lived at Canyon de Chelly in prehistoric times are today
-called the Anasazi, a Navajo word meaning “old people.” These people
-were the ancestors of modern Pueblo Indians, and they lived in the
-vicinity of northern Arizona and New Mexico, southwestern Colorado, and
-southeastern Utah from about the beginning of the Christian era to the
-end of the 13th century. Over most of that period they lived in these
-canyons. Before they learned to build in the cliffs they located and
-constructed their houses much differently. But the canyons always
-sheltered them, and their homes, their dead, and their debris tell us
-how it was with these people from the beginning to the end of their time
-here.
-
- [Illustration: These bone tools were used to work leather and weave
- baskets.]
-
-
-THE ANASAZI
-
-Early man, a nomadic hunter of big-game animals, came to the Americas
-from Asia over the Bering Strait some time between 20,000 and 15,000
-B.C. Thousands of years later, after the big animals had become extinct,
-larger bands of hunters and gatherers preyed on game animals of species
-still living today. Still later, groups began to settle in favorable
-areas and to grow maize (corn), which reached them from more complex
-cultures in what is now Mexico. From this time on, the spread and
-development of prehistoric Indian cultures in the northern Southwest can
-be traced in increasing detail.
-
-No one knows exactly when the first people arrived in the Canyon de
-Chelly area. But a tree-ring date of A.D. 306 from the West Alcove at
-Mummy Cave and the accumulation of sweepings and ashes at this site
-suggest that people were living in Canyon del Muerto at about the
-beginning of the Christian era.
-
-These early people were primarily farmers rather than nomadic hunters,
-although they still depended to some extent on game animals for food.
-They established their homes in the shelter of the many caves and
-alcoves in the canyon walls, and farmed the mesa tops and canyon
-bottoms. Dogs were their only domestic animal, and corn was their major
-crop and main source of food. Squashes (pumpkins) were grown in some
-quantity, and beans were introduced at an early time. Pinyon nuts and
-acorns, sunflower seeds, yucca and cactus fruit, and small seeds of
-other wild plants were gathered for food.
-
- [Illustration: This burial at Sliding Rock Ruin shows pottery,
- baskets, corn, and the remains of a blanket used in the day-to-day
- life of the Anasazi.]
-
- [Illustration: Ring-baskets of split yucca leaves have been in
- common use from about A.D. 1100 to the present.]
-
- [Illustration: This coiled basket was used for carrying burdens.]
-
- [Illustration: Indian women fastened rabbit fur to lengths of twine
- by twisting them to form a rope of fur such as this one. A number of
- these would then be entwined to form a blanket or a robe.]
-
-The early farmers were accomplished makers of baskets, and for this
-reason archeologists commonly call them Basketmakers. Instead of pottery
-they used baskets for many utilitarian purposes: carrying sacks, burden
-baskets, food containers, cooking pots, water carriers, storage
-containers, and even “coffins.” Sometimes plain, often decorated, they
-are the most impressive surviving artifact of the culture which produced
-them. More baskets made by these early people have been found in Canyon
-de Chelly caves than in any other locality.
-
-The caves in Canyon de Chelly have produced no evidence of houses built
-by these early farmers. If these groups had shelters at all, they were
-little more than brush-and-pole windbreaks or lean-tos made of poles and
-skins propped against the sides of the rock shelters. The only
-architectural remains found so far are pits lined with stone slabs and
-located in deposits on the cave floors. These pits were used to store
-corn and wild plant foods.
-
-Permanent dwellings apparently were not constructed until about A.D.
-500. The first such houses of which we have knowledge were small and
-generally insubstantial circular or squarish pits, shallowly dug into
-the ground. They were walled and roofed with brush and dirt or
-mud-covered poles. Later the people often built their houses in deep
-excavations, and then the structures became essentially roofed pits.
-
-The atlatl, or dart-thrower, and dart constituted the early implement
-for hunting and warfare. There is no definite evidence that the Anasazi
-used a bow and arrow until the 7th century, but one find in Canyon del
-Muerto suggests that they were attacked by a group that did use such
-weapons. The evidence was found in a cave across the canyon from
-Antelope House at a typical dwelling site of the early people. It
-appears that a massacre took place inside the cave and the remains of
-the dead were scattered about the floor until almost completely dried or
-skeletonized. The bones were then gathered up and dumped into one of the
-many storage pits that dotted the cave floor, where the archeologists
-found them. Among the artifacts discovered with the bones was a short,
-slender piece of wood, more like the shaft of an arrow than a dart,
-between the ribs and dried skin on the left side of an old woman.
-
-Little clothing was worn in these early years. Men usually wore sandals
-and a loin cloth and women an apron like skirt. In cold weather the only
-additional body covering was a blanket woven from strips of fur.
-
-Several exceptions to this mode of dress have been found. One mummy
-recovered from the slope in front of Mummy Cave (perhaps of a tribal
-leader) was elaborately dressed and had a great many possessions to take
-with him to the spirit world. He was wrapped in a woven robe of rabbit
-fur and had a basket over his face and one under his head. His feet were
-covered with buckskin moccasins lined with soft juniper bark. Buckskin
-leggings were wrapped around his legs from ankle to knee. Another piece
-of buckskin was wound around his waist; one end fell like a breechclout
-to his thighs, and the other end was thrown over his shoulder like a
-toga.
-
-The man’s moccasins are a surprising item, because the Anasazi of this
-time usually wore well-made sandals. These sandals were typically woven
-of plant fibers with intricate designs in several colors, and are
-outstanding among the textiles of any prehistoric people.
-
-In the 5th century A.D., the Anasazi acquired from the south the
-technique of making fired pottery, and they adopted the craft rapidly.
-Ceramics was a significant addition to the equipment which these people
-needed to live in what was at best a difficult environment. It made the
-everyday business of cooking food and storing water much easier. During
-the next several centuries the Anasazi achieved a high degree of skill
-in the art of ceramics and produced handsome pots in a variety of
-shapes, decorated both by relief and painting. Various styles of design
-were developed by different groups.
-
- [Illustration: The Anasazi used black-on-white pottery jars at home
- and also for trade with other groups.]
-
-Basketry, the ancient craft, survived the competition from ceramics but
-became less important. Sandals, coiled bowls, plaited yucca trays, and
-rush mattings were still made, but were not as well manufactured or
-designed as they once had been.
-
-Other changes followed the introduction of pottery, and they profoundly
-altered the culture of the Anasazi. More substantial and permanent
-houses were developed, the bow and arrow replaced the dart-thrower and
-dart for hunting and fighting, and handles were placed on stone axes and
-hammers, greatly increasing the effectiveness of these tools. Turkeys
-were domesticated, and their feathers replaced some of the fur in the
-blankets which they used for clothing. New varieties of corn, squash,
-and beans became known, and, more importantly, the cultivation of cotton
-was introduced.
-
- [Illustration: Gourd-shaped black-on-white Anasazi water jar from
- the period A.D. 500 to 700.]
-
-Sometime during these years of change the Anasazi adopted the practice
-of deforming the skulls of their children by the use of rigid
-cradleboards. The cradleboards of their direct ancestors were webbed and
-lined with soft rabbit fur, but a new conception of beauty led them to
-strap newborn infants onto flat, hard boards which flattened the back of
-the skull and broadened the forehead.
-
-These characteristics of the Anasazi developed slowly and were well
-established only around A.D. 750. Sometime after that date they began to
-live above ground, building their homes of upright poles and mud
-plaster. Each family’s room adjoined one or more other rooms, making
-more and more compact village units. In the 900’s, these pole and mud
-structures gave way to masonry buildings, some of which eventually
-became two-and three-story terraced apartment houses.
-
-The ancient pithouse was not forgotten. Its counterpart survived in
-almost all of the new villages in the form of a circular underground
-room that soon lost all resemblance to a house. Each of the larger
-villages had two or more of these underground rooms, which undoubtedly
-were ceremonial structures, serving as meeting places for men of the
-various clan societies and secret religious brotherhoods and for the
-performance of rituals. The rooms may have functioned very much like
-men’s clubhouses. Similar ceremonial rooms of present-day Pueblo Indians
-are called kivas.
-
-Much of the ceremonial activity in the ancient kivas can be inferred
-from the religious practices of modern Pueblo Indians. A large part of
-their ceremonials takes place within the privacy of the kiva and
-includes praying, chanting, and dancing. Details of costumes, in which
-feathers are extensively used, and of dance steps are important, for the
-whole ceremony is a prayer. The rituals are performed as petitions for
-rain, to insure a good harvest, or for success in hunting.
-
-In testimony to the traditions which endure in some human societies, a
-cache of bird feathers, undoubtedly saved to make a costume for such a
-ritual, was found in Big Cave in Canyon del Muerto. A carefully worked
-cylinder of wood was filled with packets of brightly colored feathers
-and bird skins. There were dozens of blue-green skins from mallard
-ducks, and even parrot feathers that must have come from Mexico. Skins
-of a red bird, still not identified, and bundles of hawk and eagle down
-were also found in the cylinder.
-
- [Illustration: The Anasazi
-
- Few regions in North America have such spectacular archeological
- sites as the Four Corners area of the Southwest. This semiarid high
- plateau country, drained by the San Juan River, saw the development
- and later the disappearance of an Indian culture that archeologists
- call the Anasazi.
-
- During the Great Pueblo period, the Anasazi developed three
- important regional centers: Chaco Canyon, Mesa Verde, and the
- Kayenta country. Their influence extended deep into the territories
- of neighboring Indian groups, who followed different agricultural
- traditions. By A.D. 1100, all three had become heavily populated,
- and the Anasazi were building their largest towns and fabled cliff
- dwellings.
-
- The fertile Chaco valley attracted aboriginals early in the 10th
- century. They first built on such sites as Pueblo Bonito, which
- expanded to a village of over 800 rooms. Their pueblos on the valley
- floor near the cliffs tended to be D-shaped, with central courts
- closed by walls often as high as four stories.
-
- A hundred miles to the north, on the steep-cliffed fingers of rock
- of southwest Colorado, the Mesa Verdians built pithouses, pueblos,
- and about 300 cliff dwellings, the largest of which is Cliff Palace.
-
- The decline of the Anasazi culture from its Great Pueblo period
- coincided with a concentration of population at Chaco, Mesa Verde,
- and Kayenta that made the people particularly dependent on a
- year-round flow of water. Long years of drought from 1270 to 1300
- dried up the rivers and caused an exodus from the San Juan River
- region.
-
- First the Chaco residents dispersed southwestward to join their
- cousins in the Little Colorado River area. Then the Mesa Verdians
- moved to the northern Rio Grande Valley of New Mexico. Finally, the
- Kayenta people, the last holdouts, gave up and joined the population
- in what is now the Hopi country.]
-
-Between A.D. 1000 and 1050 the culture of the Anasazi reached its height
-and became stable for a few centuries, until about A.D. 1275-1300. Their
-homes were now substantial buildings of stone masonry, containing
-numerous adjoining rooms. Their kivas followed standard lines and were
-often incorporated in the house structures, though they were sometimes
-built as separate, semisubterranean chambers. No other abrupt changes or
-new forms distinguish this late period, which was essentially a
-continuation and fulfillment of earlier times. The large pueblos, most
-of which were begun about A.D. 1000, are the most outstanding
-development of this period.
-
-In Canyon de Chelly, construction was started on White House and
-Antelope House during these years. Other important population centers
-were developing simultaneously at Mesa Verde (Mesa Verde National Park,
-Colo.), where the largest concentration of surviving cliff dwellings is
-located, and at Chaco Canyon (Chaco Canyon National Monument, N. Mex.),
-where spacious apartment houses, one with more than 800 rooms, were
-constructed on the floor of the canyon. Other villages were built in the
-Kayenta-Marsh Pass area (near Navajo National Monument, Ariz.).
-
-As permanent homes gave them social stability and well-developed
-agriculture ensured adequate food, the Anasazi had leisure and
-sufficient security for greater activity in their arts, crafts, and
-ceremonials. As a consequence, trade with other peoples seems to have
-grown and flourished because it brought in the specialized and exotic
-materials needed for rituals and pleasure. Parrots were traded from
-Mexico for their plumage, and ornamental shells from the Gulf of
-California and the West Coast found their way to Anasazi settlements.
-Turquoise, jet, and salt also became important trade items.
-
-The mode of dress changed little. Feather-string blankets were still
-commonly worn in winter. Cotton became almost the only fiber used for
-making cloth. Sandals, which were woven from whole yucca leaves, were
-crude, compared to those of earlier periods. But painted pottery reached
-its highest development in both variety and quality.
-
-These great pueblo centers flourished for about two centuries. But this
-was a time of increasing dryness in the Southwest, and the end for these
-settlements came during a severe drought late in the 13th century.
-Tree-ring data indicate that there was not enough moisture to produce
-crops during most of the years between 1276 and 1299. The drought
-brought crop failures, and the ensuing erosion destroyed the fields.
-Hunger, decline, and migration followed. Family after family and group
-after group left their homes in the cliffs and canyons. Taking what few
-possessions they could carry on their backs, they drifted away in search
-of land with a dependable water supply suitable for farming.
-
-The villages in Canyon de Chelly apparently lasted longer than most and
-may even have provided a temporary haven for refugees from other regions
-to the north. The four-story tower house at Mummy Cave might have been
-built for such refugees by skilled masons from the Mesa Verde area.
-
-By 1300, however, all the great cliff dwellings were abandoned, and the
-people of the Canyon de Chelly area had moved on to new lands. Most of
-them probably joined the tribes that were gathering around Black Mesa to
-the west, near the location of the modern Hopi pueblos. Others may have
-turned south, settling finally near the middle of the present boundary
-between Arizona and New Mexico. Other Anasazi made their way to the
-upper Rio Grande Valley in north-central New Mexico. In these localities
-the Pueblo farmers renewed their way of life, and it was there that
-Spanish explorers found them on their first trip through the region in
-1540-42.
-
-At White House and a few other ruins there is evidence of structural
-additions made long after the villages were abandoned. These and other
-indications of occupation well after 1300 probably represent the work of
-Hopi Indians who used the canyons seasonally for agriculture, taking the
-harvest back to their villages about 70 miles to the west. Peach trees,
-which the Spanish introduced to the Hopi in the 17th century, were
-evidently brought to Canyon de Chelly in either that century or the
-next, and the small orchards still scattered through the canyons were
-started. The use of the canyons by the Hopi probably dropped off rapidly
-after the Navajos appeared in the area in the 18th century.
-
- [Illustration: This pictograph of a soldier on horseback is taken
- from the Navajo rock painting in Canyon del Muerto near Standing Cow
- Ruin.]
-
-
-THE NAVAJOS
-
-The present Indian occupants of Canyon de Chelly are Navajos. They are
-not related to the Anasazi who built the masonry villages now in ruins.
-
-No one is certain just when the Navajos came to this region nor do we
-know exactly where they came from. The best available evidence now
-suggests that these people and their close relatives, the Apaches, both
-of whom speak an Athapascan language, came south along the eastern edge
-of the Rocky Mountains as a single group. They may have reached the
-Southwest between the 13th and the 16th centuries. The earliest mention
-of people who were probably Navajos is in the Oñate documents of 1598.
-This account places them in north-central New Mexico, an area they still
-call their homeland but no longer occupy.
-
-The name “Navajo” has never been adequately translated. The first
-interpretation of the word came from Father Alonso de Benavides, a
-Spanish priest who started missionary work among the Navajos. In his
-“Memorial of New Mexico,” which was presented to the court of Spain in
-1630, he stated:
-
-_But these Apache de Nabahu [Navajo] are very great farmers for this is
-what Navajo signifies ... great planted fields...._
-
- [Illustration: The pastoral scene shows two contemporary Navajo
- structures. To the left is a modern hogan, and to the right, a
- ramada.]
-
-By 1750, the Navajos had abandoned their homes west of the Chama River
-Valley because of pressure from the Utes to the north. Generally they
-moved westward, but a few split off to the south. We do not know when
-they first entered Canyon de Chelly, but there is evidence at the site
-of Tse-ta’a to suggest that it was after 1700.
-
-Hunters, gatherers, and farmers, the Navajos changed their way of life
-sharply when they acquired horses and sheep from the Spanish after the
-Pueblo Rebellion of 1680. Horses made the Navajos highly mobile and
-increased their ability to raid the alluring towns along the Rio Grande
-and then vanish into mountain and canyon hideouts. Sheep gradually
-changed the basis of their economy, converting them from hunters and
-raiders to the pastoral herders they are today.
-
-After the Spanish reconquered New Mexico in 1692, many Pueblo families
-from the Rio Grande sought sanctuary with the Navajos. Some of these
-refugees were absorbed into the tribe, and they brought with them not
-only weaving, but sheep raising, pottery and basketry techniques,
-architectural and agricultural ideas, the clan system, and much
-religious lore.
-
-Navajo-Spanish relations were generally quiet after the Spanish returned
-because the tribe was preoccupied with fighting the Utes to the north
-and was interested in enlisting Spanish support or, at least,
-forbearance. This comparatively peaceful interlude came to an end in the
-1770’s because of land disputes, and friction continued from that time
-until the 1860’s.
-
-In 1805, during this period of strife, a Spanish punitive expedition
-entered Canyon de Chelly, bent on taking slaves, or servants as the
-whites called them.
-
-According to the Navajo account of the episode, all the Navajo men had
-gone out on an expedition, leaving the old men, and women, and children
-hidden in a deep ledge high up the canyon wall. Their position was
-strengthened by a wall of loose stones placed along the rim of the
-ledge. As the Spanish troops, commanded by Lt. Antonio Narbona, passed
-below, an old woman who had been a Spanish slave could not resist
-scoffing at them and thus exposed the hiding place.
-
-In a letter on January 25, 1805, to the Governor of New Mexico, Narbona
-described the action which followed:
-
-_On the 17th of the current month I managed to attack in Cañon de Chelli
-a great number of enemy Indians and though they entrenched themselves in
-an almost inaccessible spot, and fortified beforehand, we succeeded
-after having battled all day long with the greatest ardor and effort, in
-taking [it] the morning after and that our arms had the result of ninety
-dead warriors, twenty-five women and children, and as prisoners three
-warriors, eight women and twenty-two boys and girls...._
-
-Narbona reported his losses as 1 dead and 64 wounded. Massacre Cave in
-Canyon del Muerto was named for this event.
-
- [Illustration: Massacre Cave sits high up on the west wall of Canyon
- del Muerto, a short way upstream from Mummy Cave.]
-
-The Navajos had been held in partial check by Spanish bribes and
-punitive expeditions, but after Mexico won its independence from Spain
-in 1821, the Navajos returned to raiding in behalf of all those enslaved
-by the Spanish. In 1823, 1833, 1836, and 1838 the Mexicans mounted large
-expeditions against the Navajos, sometimes sending as many as 1,500 men
-after them. It was during this period that Canyon de Chelly was most
-often referred to as the stronghold of the Navajos. Although Mexican
-reprisals often forced the Indians to take temporary refuge north of the
-San Juan River, they were too sporadic to effectively quell the raiders,
-who always came back with new attacks. Conditions were so bad that the
-Navajos boasted they let the Mexicans live on only because they made
-good shepherds for the tribe. The taunt hardly exaggerated their power
-at the time.
-
-Navajo depredations had very nearly decimated the frontier settlements
-in the central Rio Grande Valley of New Mexico when the United States
-went to war with Mexico in 1846. Col. Stephen Watts Kearny had the task
-of seizing the northern Mexican provinces, an area that is now part of
-the American Southwest. In late June 1846 he left Fort Leavenworth,
-Kansas. Marching over the Santa Fe Trail without opposition, Kearny and
-his American Dragoons arrived in Santa Fe on August 18, 1846, and
-proclaimed New Mexico a part of the United States.
-
-When Kearny and the Army of the West marched off to Mexico, Col.
-Alexander W. Doniphan was left behind with orders to invade the Navajo
-country, release captives, reclaim stolen property, and either to awe or
-beat the Indians into submission. In August 1846 he led the first United
-States expedition against the Navajos. Maj. William Gilpin, with 200
-men, entered the Navajo country on the north and swung south to meet
-Doniphan and several Navajo chiefs at Bear Springs near the town of
-Grants, New Mexico, later the site of Fort Wingate. The treaty signed
-there turned out to be little more than a scrap of paper. Five more
-unsuccessful military expeditions were sent against the Navajos between
-1846 and 1849 in vain attempts to end the Indian raids.
-
-In trying to contain the Navajos, the U.S. Government made the same
-mistake that the Mexican and Spanish Governments did before them. They
-all assumed that a single chief led the several Navajo bands. Actually,
-each local Navajo group had its own leader, and time and again treaties
-of “lasting peace with the Navajos” were signed by these local chiefs,
-who spoke only for their own small bands and had no influence with
-others.
-
-The U.S. Army expedition of 1849 clearly illustrated this problem. Lt.
-Col. John W. Washington, military commander of New Mexico, led an
-expedition to Canyon de Chelly, then considered to be the Navajo
-heartland. Washington met local Navajo chiefs on the crest of a small
-hill between the present Thunderbird Guest Ranch and the mouth of the
-canyon. Here on Treaty Hill a treaty of “lasting peace” was signed with
-the Indians. Washington had no sooner returned to Albuquerque, however,
-than he learned that another Navajo band had raided a small village near
-Santa Fe.
-
- [Illustration: Col. E. R. S. Canby led the last campaign against the
- Navajos before the Civil War.]
-
-Regardless of treaties and punitive expeditions, Navajo depredations
-continued. Late in 1851, Col. E. V. Sumner marched into the Navajo
-country in still another effort to settle the problem. After a single
-encounter with the Navajo in Canyon de Chelly, Sumner returned to a spot
-southwest of the Chuska Mountains where he established Fort Defiance in
-the autumn of 1851. Fighting broke out again in 1858, when a Negro slave
-of the post commander at Fort Defiance was killed by a Navajo arrow. The
-Army retaliated with an attack on a party of peaceful Navajos, and the
-Indians retreated northward.
-
-Up to this time, U.S. Army commanders had controlled Indian policies;
-the authority of the civil agents appointed by the Indian Department was
-negligible. But now the civilian agents brought political pressure to
-bear upon the unsuccessful Army. To soothe the politicians, the Army
-drew up still another treaty with the Navajos on December 25, 1858. This
-treaty was the second attempt to outline the boundaries of a proposed
-Navajo reservation. Like an earlier proposal, the Meriweather Treaty of
-1855, it was never ratified.
-
-The year 1859 was relatively peaceful, with few raids on either side.
-But the next year opened with a series of Navajo raids that culminated
-in a concentrated attack on Fort Defiance. Some of the old Navajos who
-participated later recalled that it was a carefully planned assault at
-dawn, with as many as 2,000 warriors taking part. After attacking for
-two hours, the Indians were forced to withdraw.
-
-In the winter of 1860-61, Col. E. R. S. Canby led the last military
-expedition against the Navajos before the Civil War, but his efforts
-failed to bring peace. Zarcillos Largos, a great Navajo leader who had
-worked for more peaceful relations with whites, was killed in an ambush
-during the campaign. The Indians soon resorted to their old tactic of
-dispersing, and the campaign ended with another treaty. When troops were
-withdrawn from Fort Defiance in March 1861 for Civil War duty, the last
-restraint was removed from both sides, and raiding began once more. For
-the Spanish-Americans, it was the high point of their warfare against
-the Navajos.
-
-The job of subjugating the recalcitrant Navajos now fell to Brig. Gen.
-James H. Carleton, commander of the Department of New Mexico and a
-seasoned Indian fighter with 25 years of active service. His earlier
-experience in Indian affairs had convinced Carleton that establishing
-reservations where the Indians could be educated would be the only way
-to get them to settle down. Carleton said:
-
-_Soon they will acquire new habits, new ideas, new modes of life; the
-old Indians will die off, and carry with them the latent longings for
-murdering and robbing; the young ones will take their place without
-these longings; and thus, little by little, they will become a contented
-people...._
-
- [Illustration: Brig. Gen. James H. Carleton defeated the Navajos and
- built Fort Sumner at Bosque Redondo, the Navajo’s place of exile.]
-
-In 1863, Carleton drew up plans for a 40-square-mile reservation at Fort
-Sumner on the Pecos River in central New Mexico. He called the new
-reservation Bosque Redondo, which is Spanish for circular thicket.
-
- [Illustration: The valiant Manuelito fought against the whites, but
- without permanent success. In 1863 he was one of a number of
- prominent Navajo leaders.]
-
- [Illustration: Capt. Albert Pfeiffer led his men down Canyon del
- Muerto between these cliffs, destroying hogans and crops.]
-
-When the reservation was ready, Carleton ordered Col. Christopher (Kit)
-Carson to take the field against the Navajos in June 1863. Carson’s
-force consisted of four companies of New Mexican Volunteers, two mounted
-and two unmounted, and 200 Ute Indians, who were guides and scouts,
-altogether a force of about 1,000 men. Their first operation was to
-reoccupy and repair the abandoned Fort Defiance, which they renamed Fort
-Canby in honor of General Canby.
-
-The Navajos were led by Barboncito of Canyon de Chelly, a spokesman for
-the bands living west of the Chuska Mountains, and Manuelito, a leader
-of those who dwelt east of the mountains. Many subchiefs, as usual, led
-individual bands.
-
-Carson had orders from General Carleton to destroy all cornfields and
-livestock. He sent word to the Navajos that they should surrender at
-Fort Canby, and then moved into the field to persuade them. The first
-skirmish took place in August near the fort. Under constant pressure
-from the military through the winter of 1863, their herds being killed
-and crops burned, the Navajos were soon destitute and began to surrender
-in small numbers.
-
-The crowning blow to Navajo pride, however, was the Army’s ostentatious
-penetration of Canyon de Chelly, their most secure refuge. A detachment
-of men under Capt. Albert Pfeiffer carried the “Navaho Fortress” in
-January 1864. Entering through Canyon del Muerto, Pfeiffer guarded the
-junction while Capt. A. B. Carey led a detail through the main gorge of
-de Chelly, marching west to east. Captain Pfeiffer described his
-progress through del Muerto:
-
-_My travel through the cañon, for the first 12 miles, was accomplished
-on the ice of the bed of the stream which courses through it.... Lt. C.
-M. Hubbell, who was in charge of the rear, had a great deal of trouble
-in proceeding with the pack trains, as the mules frequently broke
-through the ice and tumbled down with their loads. All the Indian
-prisoners taken thus far were half starved and naked. The cañon has no
-road except the bottom of the creek. We traveled mostly on the ice, our
-animals breaking through every few minutes, and one mule split
-completely open under the exhausting fatigue of the march. On the 12th
-instant traveled 8 miles; had several skirmishes with the enemy. Indians
-on both sides of the cañon whooping, yelling and cursing, firing shots
-and throwing rocks down upon my command. Killed two buck Indians in the
-encounter and one squaw, who obstinately persisted in hurling rocks and
-pieces of wood at the soldiers. Six prisoners were captured on this
-occasion. Lieutenant Hubbell followed up some Indians in a tributary
-cañon, but could not overtake them on account of the steepness of the
-hillsides, where nothing save an Indian or mountain goat could make
-their way...._
-
-This raid, which netted only about 100 prisoners, convinced the Navajos
-that even though Carson was not out to destroy them, he would go
-anywhere to ferret them out. They had no choice but to surrender at Fort
-Canby. Shortly after the Canyon de Chelly raid some 500 Navajos, with
-their flocks, straggled into the fort. By February 15, 1864, 1,500
-Navajos were being fed and clothed there, and by the first of March
-about 2,400.
-
-The much storied “Long Walk” and exile of the Navajos began on March 6,
-1864, when these 2,400 people with 30 wagons, 400 horses, and 3,000
-sheep and goats left Fort Canby for Bosque Redondo, 300 miles away in
-New Mexico Territory. Only the aged, the children, and the crippled rode
-in wagons—all others walked the entire distance. One old Navajo recalled
-the exodus in later years, saying:
-
-_It was a great sight, we stretched from Fort Defiance to the Window
-Rock ‘haystacks’ ... a distance of about 7 miles._
-
-On March 14-15, a second group of about 3,000 Navajos began the foot
-journey. The last large escort of Navajos to Fort Sumner was on April
-24, when 1,200 persons started their “Long Walk.”
-
- [Illustration: This old army map shows the military posts of the
- 1860’s. The red line traces the “Long Walk” of the defeated Navajos
- to Fort Sumner at Bosque Redondo.
-
- High-resolution Map]
-
- [Illustration: Scenes of the Navajos in their place of exile at Fort
- Sumner on the Pecos River. The top view shows them lined up to
- receive their issue of food and clothing.
- National Archives
- Museum of New Mexico
- National Archives]
-
-Not all the Navajos surrendered. Many tribesmen remained free and
-continued to raid settlements. On April 9, 1864, the very day that the
-Governor of New Mexico had set aside to celebrate the end of the Navajo
-war, a band of Navajos stole 40 head of cattle from Laguna Pueblo, 140
-miles southwest of Canyon de Chelly. Those who surrendered endured
-extreme hardship at Fort Sumner from disease, crop failure, famine, and
-their sense of exile from their homeland. After 4 years, the several
-thousand reservation Navajos were broken in body and spirit, while their
-still-free tribesmen continued their troublesome guerrilla activities.
-Carleton’s experiment was judged a complete failure.
-
-The Government then decided that the Navajos should return to a part of
-their old homeland. A new treaty signed on June 1, 1868, stated that the
-tribe and the United States were at peace, and in it the Navajos pledged
-to stop their raiding. In return, the Government promised the tribe
-school facilities and a reservation that included Canyon de Chelly in
-its total area of 3,500,000 acres. The Navajos were to stay within this
-reservation.
-
-Twenty-nine Navajo chiefs and council members signed the treaty, and the
-Navajos began leaving Fort Sumner almost immediately, slipping away
-family by family. Those without horses or who had old or sick persons in
-their family awaited Government transportation. On June 15, a wagon
-train with a military escort carried the last Navajos from Fort Sumner
-to Fort Wingate. There the tribe waited while final arrangements were
-worked out.
-
-By November the new reservation boundaries had been surveyed and shown
-to the tribe’s head men, and a headquarters for the Indian agent had
-been prepared at Fort Defiance. At long last the Navajos were allowed to
-go home. They were now united into a single tribe with leaders,
-appointed by the Indian agents, to represent them in their dealings with
-the whites. But their troubles were not over.
-
-Only a fraction of the Navajos’ sheep had survived Carson’s slaughter
-and the years of famine at Fort Sumner. The treaty had promised sheep
-and goats to replenish the herds, but more than a year passed before any
-were received. Meantime, hunger pursued the Navajos, and they had to
-exist on army issue rations of beef, coffee, and flour.
-
-The treaty also promised that during the first 10 years—called the
-Treaty Years—each family head who took up farming would receive $25
-worth of agricultural tools and supplies every 2 years to help him in
-his new pursuit. It was 14 years before this promise was fulfilled, and
-the tribe was badly hampered in their efforts to fill out their slender
-larder through agriculture.
-
-During these years the Navajos eked out a living through their
-traditional crafts of weaving and silver working. Blankets and wool were
-beginning to find a market in the expanding settlements of the Rio
-Grande Valley, at army posts, and in the Mormon settlements of Utah. In
-1869, the first trading post was established on the reservation, and it
-provided the tribe with a source of supplies and an outlet for their
-wares. As Navajo blankets, wool, and silverwork became more important,
-other traders entered the Navajo country.
-
-Still there was little substantial change in either the Navajo’s mode of
-life or their economy by the end of the Treaty Years in 1878. True, the
-tribe and their flocks had increased in numbers especially after 1872,
-when the U.S. Government distributed 10,000 sheep among them. The coming
-of the railroad in 1881-82, however, accelerated change and growth in
-the Navajos more than any other event. New techniques for making a
-living, learned from working with construction crews, and new
-possessions brought by the railroad, started the people toward the
-modern world.
-
-One vexing problem that has confronted the Navajos since their days at
-Fort Sumner is the lack of adequate grazing land to support an expanding
-population. The reservation boundaries have been enlarged many times
-over the years, but now there is no space for further expansion. Today
-the tribe numbers over 120,000 members, and tribal lands cannot support
-that large a population nor the uncontrolled grazing that it causes.
-
-The old way of life is gradually being replaced. In 1924, Congress
-granted citizenship rights to all Indians in recognition of their
-service during World War I when their men enlisted by the hundreds, even
-though exempt from the draft. After 1923 Navajo tribal business became
-less of a haphazard affair. A tribal council, made up of elected
-delegates, began to handle contacts with the world beyond the
-reservation. Little or no work was done to remedy undesirable conditions
-on the reservation until the public works program of the 1930’s, when a
-good many schools and hospitals were built. During World War II,
-hundreds of young Navajo men enlisted in the armed forces and other
-thousands went into war work. These involvements in American society
-demonstrated that an education was essential if Indians were to compete
-successfully in the outer world, and so the tribal council passed a
-compulsory schooling law in 1947. Many schools and hospitals were built
-in the 1950’s and 1960’s.
-
- [Illustration: A Navajo weaver, 1873. Their looms have changed
- little in the years since then.]
-
-Little by little the Navajos became acquainted with the world outside
-the reservation and learned its ways and advantages. Today their
-prospects for a better life are brighter. Oil, gas, coal, timber, and
-uranium deposits on their lands are being developed for the benefit of
-all the Navajos. Children are more eager to attend school, and many
-Navajos are now leaving the reservation to put their education to work
-at jobs in the larger community. The Navajo people are beginning to find
-a place within the Nation.
-
-Despite these changes and prospects, many Navajo families are still
-seminomadic camp dwellers, following old traditions. Each family’s
-grazing land covers about 10 to 15 square miles. Within this area they
-have two or more hogans and corrals, built near suitable grass, water,
-and wood.
-
-In winter the family moves to the foothills or mesa tops to be near a
-plentiful wood supply, for winters in the Navajo country are severe. The
-winter hogans, or houses, are constructed with considerable care by the
-men. Brush shelters are used for cooking and camping in summer.
-
- [Illustration: Navajo headmen inside a summer brush shelter, 1898.]
-
- [Illustration: A Navajo cribbed (log-cabin) style hogan in the high
- pine forest in 1908.]
-
- [Illustration: A modern hogan built of stone and mud-plaster with a
- pane glass window, at Standing Cow Ruin.]
-
-Several types of hogans can be seen on the reservation today. Some
-recent ones attempt to copy houses in off-reservation towns, but most
-follow traditional styles. The earliest type of hogan known is the
-so-called “forked-stick” hogan. This is a tipi-shaped structure made of
-three poles with forked ends that interlock at the top. Spaces between
-this framework are filled with smaller poles; the whole is plastered
-with mud. Another style of hogan is made of cribbed logs and usually has
-six or eight sides, a design made necessary by the shortness of the logs
-available. Circular hogans of stone, adapted from Pueblo Indian masonry
-construction, are sometimes built. The roofs on both types of hogans are
-constructed of cribbed logs and appear domed rather than flat. A feature
-common to every hogan is its door facing east, toward the sunrise.
-
- [Illustration: A Navajo forked-pole hogan, traditionally the
- earliest form used by the tribe. Shaped like a tipi, it is built of
- heavy logs covered with soil.
- National Archives]
-
-Furnishings of hogans were simple and limited, but today tables, chairs,
-cabinets, and beds are commonly used. Food was once cooked in a firepit
-in the center of the floor, below a hole in the roof which allowed the
-smoke to escape, but today it is prepared on stoves which increasingly
-are butane gas or electric models. In good weather, cooking is done
-outside. Iron and aluminum pots and pans have replaced homemade pottery
-and baskets as kitchen utensils.
-
-Water is scarce over much of the reservation and must be hauled in
-wagons or pickup trucks from as far away as 10 miles. Water is used
-sparingly.
-
-The Navajos are fond of goat meat and mutton, which have almost entirely
-replaced the wild game of the old diet. Canned goods from the traders’
-shelves have supplanted the wild plants that used to be gathered and, in
-some homes, have eliminated garden plots of corn and squash. At Fort
-Sumner the Navajos learned to roast and brew coffee and to use wheat
-flour. Now coffee and wheat bread are important items in their diet.
-
-In aboriginal times Navajo clothing was meager. Women wore an apron and
-men a breechclout of buckskin. Footwear probably consisted of yucca
-fiber sandals, although moccasins of animal skins were also common.
-During winter, blankets of animal skins or yucca were added for warmth.
-
-After the Spaniards arrived in the Rio Grande Valley, the Navajos copied
-Spanish costumes. This style, which prevailed until after the return
-from Bosque Redondo in 1868, consisted of tightly buttoned knee-length
-breeches of buckskin, worn with knitted blue stockings copied from those
-of Pueblo men. A V-neck shirt was made from a small blanket or piece of
-flannel and was worn outside the trousers. The shirt was held by a
-leather belt heavily ornamented with silver. Moccasins and leggings of
-dyed buckskin completed the men’s dress. When Navajo women began loom
-weaving, they copied the Pueblo woman’s woven cotton dress in wool and
-wore it with a woven belt. Dyed buckskin moccasins with wrap-around
-leggings were their footwear.
-
- [Illustration: Navajo clothing of the 19th century, a pair of
- moccasins and a shirt.]
-
- [Illustration: Shirt.]
-
-After Bosque Redondo, cotton clothing in Anglo-American and Mexican
-styles became popular. Today Navajo men wear typical western ranch and
-farm clothing: blue jeans, shirts, and broad-brimmed felt or straw hats.
-The women still prefer the bright calico skirts and velveteen blouses
-which they copied from the styles worn by American women in the mid-19th
-century. The skirt is ankle length and voluminous, containing from 12 to
-15 yards of material. Moccasins of dyed buckskin are still popular with
-the women at home, but modish shoes and stockings have been adopted for
-town wear. In winter, both men and women use commercially made blankets
-draped over their shoulders for protection against the cold.
-
-Today many Navajo men take off-reservation jobs with railroads, in
-lumber camps, or as migratory workers following crop harvests. Sheep
-still play a major role in the family economy, and annual income is
-supplemented by the sale of rugs and, sometimes, silverwork and jewelry.
-
-The Navajos have worn silver ornaments for many years. A 1795 Spanish
-reference mentions that the Navajo captains were rarely seen without
-their silver ornaments, but there is no evidence that they made them at
-that time. They got most of their silver pieces by trading, and picked
-up others on raids against Ute and Commanche Indians, who in turn had
-obtained them from eastern Indians who were in contact with
-Anglo-American or French traders. A great many silver ornaments probably
-came from the Spaniards.
-
-Present evidence indicates that the Navajos learned silversmithing
-sometime after 1850. Old silversmiths in the tribe have claimed that
-Mexicans taught them the craft during the Bosque Redondo captivity,
-citing their first smith, Atsidi Sani or “Old Smith,” who was taught by
-a Mexican blacksmith.
-
- [Illustration: An early Navajo silversmith named
- Slim-Maker-of-Silver.
- Museum of New Mexico]
-
- [Illustration: Ring.]
-
- [Illustration: Navajo silver bracelets and ring from the period
- 1880-1900.
- Smithsonian Institution]
-
- [Illustration: Recent Navajo bracelets.]
-
- [Illustration: A Navajo vegetal-dye rug, hand woven from hand-spun,
- home-grown wool. It is representative of the Chinle style.]
-
- [Illustration: A Navajo wife weaving a rug in her front yard at
- their home near Standing Cow Ruin.]
-
- [Illustration: A Navajo girl and her dogs guard the family sheep
- near Big Cave.]
-
-By 1881 they had completely mastered the art, and began to use turquoise
-in their jewelry. Commercialization of their silver-work began in 1899,
-when the Fred Harvey Company first placed large orders for pieces to
-sell to tourists.
-
-Perhaps more than anything else, the colorful rugs and silver and
-turquoise jewelry produced by these people have made the name “Navajo” a
-household word. The two crafts did not develop simultaneously, for
-weaving is almost two centuries older than silversmithing. The Navajo
-mastery of both skills is exceptional, however, and both lend themselves
-readily to Navajo designs.
-
-The loom used in Navajo weaving is a native American device, similar to
-that of the ancient Pueblo people. It has changed little over the
-centuries. Men usually construct the loom and women do the weaving.
-
-In spite of three centuries of work by Christian missionaries, the
-Navajos have clung to their native religion. Their religious leaders are
-medicine men, or healers, and their rites are intended primarily to
-secure and maintain good health.
-
-The ceremonies, called chants, sometimes last as long as 9 days. They
-consist of songs, dances, the construction of sand paintings, and the
-administration of herbal medicines and sweat baths.
-
-The Navajos, a unique people in many ways, are far from being
-“vanishing” Americans. Vigorous and growing in numbers, they have only
-recently begun to understand their potential. While they are making
-rapid strides to join the world around them, they are keenly aware of
-their own heritage and what it can contribute to the larger culture of
-America.
-
-
-
-
- Further Reading
-
-
-Kluckholm, Clyde, and Dorothea Leighton. _The Navaho._ Cambridge, Mass.
- 1946.
-
-McGregor, John C. _Southwestern Archeology._ Second Ed. Urbana, Ill.
- 1965.
-
-Morris, Ann A. _Digging in the Southwest._ N.Y. 1934.
-
-Underhill, Ruth M. _The Navajos._ Norman, Okla. 1956.
-
-Wormington, H. M. _Prehistoric Indians of the Southwest._ Third Ed.
- Denver, Colo. 1956.
-
- [Illustration: DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR · March 3, 1849]
-
-_As the Nation’s principal conservation agency, the Department of the
-Interior has basic responsibilities for water, fish, wildlife, mineral,
-land, park, and recreational resources. Indian and Territorial affairs
-are other major concerns of America’s “Department of Natural Resources.”
-The Department works to assure the wisest choice in managing all our
-resources so each will make its full contribution to a better United
-States—now and in the future._
-
-_National Park Service_
-
-_U.S. DEPARTMENT of the INTERIOR_
-
-
- ★ U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1973 O—503-170
- For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing
- Office Washington, D.C. 20402. Price 80 cents, domestic postpaid; 60
- cents, GPO Bookstore
- Stock Number 2405-00508
-
- [Illustration: Book cover]
-
-
-
-
- Transcriber’s Notes
-
-
-—This etext based on a U.S. government publication is public domain in
- the United States.
-
-—Corrected a few palpable typos.
-
-—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
- _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Canyon de Chelly, by Zorro A. Bradley
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
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-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Canyon de Chelly
- The Story of its Ruins and People
-
-Author: Zorro A. Bradley
-
-Release Date: November 29, 2016 [EBook #53631]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CANYON DE CHELLY ***
-
-
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-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, MFR and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
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-
-
-
- _Canyon de Chelly_
-
-
- The Story of its Ruins and People
-
- by Zorro A. Bradley
-
-
- Office of Publications
- National Park Service
- U.S. Department of the Interior
- Washington, D.C.,
- 1973
-
- _Library of Congress Catalog Card Number_ 73-600078
-
-
-
-
- Contents
-
-
- Discovery of the Ruins 3
- The Principal Ruins 7
- White House 7
- Antelope House 9
- Standing Cow 12
- Big Cave 13
- Mummy Cave 15
- The People of Canyon de Chelly 17
- The Anasazi 18
- The Navajos 27
- Further Reading 57
- Maps 8, 24, 39
-
-
-_Far up above me, a thousand feet or so, set in a great cavern in the
-face of the cliff, I saw a little city of stone asleep. It was as still
-as sculpture--and something like that. It all hung together, seemed to
-have a kind of composition: pale little houses of stone nestling close
-to one another, perched on top of each other, with flat roofs, narrow
-windows, straight walls, and in the middle of the group, a round
-tower...._
-
-_In sunlight it was the colour of winter oak leaves. A fringe of cedars
-grew along the edge of the cavern, like a garden. They were the only
-living things. Such silence and stillness and repose--immortal repose.
-That village sat looking down into the canyon with the calmness of
-eternity.... I had come upon the city of some extinct civilization,
-hidden away in this inaccessible mesa for centuries, preserved in the
-dry air and almost perpetual sunlight like a fly in amber, guarded by
-the cliffs and the river and the desert._
-
- --_Willa Cather_
-
-
-Quotation from _The Professor's House_, 1925, by permission of Alfred A.
- Knopf, New York.
-
- [Illustration: The righthand section of Mummy Cave Ruin as it was
- photographed by Ben Wittick in 1882 during the James Stevenson
- Survey for the Smithsonian Institution.]
-
-
-
-
- Discovery of the Ruins
-
-
-Canyon de Chelly National Monument is located in the red rock country of
-northeastern Arizona's high plateau, near the center of the Navajo
-Indian Reservation. Included in its 131 square miles are three
-spectacular canyons--Canyon de Chelly, Canyon del Muerto, and Monument
-Canyon--and many ruins of long-deserted villages. Perched in alcoves and
-on high ledges along the sheer-walled canyons, these villages are
-evidence of man's ability to adjust to a difficult environment, using
-bare hands, simple stone age tools, and his own ingenuity. They stand as
-enduring monuments to the culture of the ancestors of the present-day
-Pueblo Indians of the southwestern United States.
-
-The ancestors of the Navajo Indians who now live in the shadows of these
-deep canyons came here long after the earlier peoples had left.
-Originally the Navajos did not live in the canyon, but only passed
-through it on their yearly migrations. Today some live here permanently,
-and their hogans are scattered along the sandy canyon floor, almost
-hidden by the thick growth of willows and cottonwoods and detectable
-only by a column of smoke slowly rising from a cook fire or by the
-barking of dogs. Occasionally one may catch a glimpse of a brightly
-dressed woman working around the hogan or of black-hatted men trotting
-their horses between the nearby trading post, cornfields, or peach
-orchards. A reserved and dignified people, they still live in the
-tradition of their fathers.
-
-The main canyon's name, de Chelly, stems from the Navajo word "Tsegi"
-(pronounced tsay-yih or tsay-yhi and meaning "Rock Canyon"), the name by
-which they know the canyon network. Two centuries of Spanish and English
-usage have corrupted both the form and pronunciation. Most people now
-pronounce it "dah-SHAY" or "d'SHAY."
-
-The first Europeans to see the extensive ruins in Canyon de Chelly are
-unknown. A Spanish map of 1776 indicates its location, and other
-documents reveal that Spanish military expeditions sometimes passed
-through the neighborhood. In 1805, Spanish troops entered the canyon
-while trying to suppress Navajo raids. During the period of Mexican rule
-(1821-46), a number of military expeditions against the Navajo invaded
-the Canyon de Chelly region. Though the ruins had not been described in
-writing, the area was fairly well known, and by 1846, when the "Army of
-the West" brought the region under United States control, there were
-many tall tales and rumors about the wonderful cities built in the
-cliffs.
-
- [Illustration: Archeological excavations in Canyon del Muerto,
- 1929.]
-
-In 1849, the New Mexico territorial government found it necessary to
-request that a U.S. Army expedition be sent to subdue the Navajos. Lt.
-J. H. Simpson of the Topographical Engineers accompanied the troops. His
-journal, published in 1850, contained the first detailed account of some
-of the Canyon de Chelly ruins.
-
-After Simpson's visit, other military expeditions and a few civilian
-parties probably entered the canyons. No archeological investigations
-were made, however, until 1882, when James Stevenson surveyed the area
-for the Smithsonian Institution, making sketches, photographs, and
-ground plans of 46 ruins in the two main canyons.
-
-Stevenson found two mummies in a rock shelter ruin in the northern
-canyon. Because of this find the ruin is known as Mummy Cave, and
-Stevenson gave the canyon a Spanish name, Canyon de los Muertos, or
-canyon of the dead men. The name has since been shortened to del Muerto.
-
- [Illustration: First Ruin in the lower part of Canyon de Chelly. It
- has 10 rooms and two kivas.]
-
-Later in 1882, Cosmos Mindeleff, also from the Smithsonian and a member
-of Stevenson's party, mapped the canyons and showed the locations of
-some of the larger ruins. Mindeleff's monumental architectural survey of
-the ruins of Canyon de Chelly was published in 1896, after two more
-visits.
-
-Much of our knowledge about material objects used by the early Puebloan
-inhabitants of the canyons comes from the work of the late Earl H.
-Morris, who excavated a number of the important cave sites in the
-1920's. Since then a comprehensive survey of the monument has been
-carried out by David L. De Harport for the Peabody Museum of Harvard
-University, and additional excavations have been conducted by National
-Park Service archeologists.
-
- [Illustration: The upper and lower White House ruins were probably
- connected when the ancient Indians lived there.]
-
-
-
-
- The Principal Ruins
-
-
-Within the national monument are perhaps 800 prehistoric and historic
-Indian village sites, representing various stages of Pueblo and later
-Navajo cultural development and spanning a period of about 1,800 years.
-The most interesting and important ruins are described below.
-
-
-WHITE HOUSE
-
-Located up the main canyon, about 6 miles from Park Service
-headquarters, White House is one of the largest, best preserved, and
-most accessible ruins in the monument.
-
- [Illustration: A kiva at the White House ruin, where religious and
- other ceremonies were held.]
-
-Lt. J. H. Simpson described this ruin after his 1849 visit, calling it
-Casa Blanca (White House). It is also known by its Navajo name,
-Kini-na-e-kai. Both names derive from a conspicuous white-plastered wall
-in the upper portion.
-
-White House was constructed in two sections; one stands against the base
-of the cliff on the canyon floor, and the other is in a small cave
-immediately above. Mindeleff estimated that at one time the whole ruin
-contained as many as 80 rooms. Much of the lower building has probably
-been washed away by the stream nearby (a retaining wall now helps to
-prevent this), but evidence of about 60 rooms and 4 kivas (special
-ceremonial chambers) still survives.
-
-Behind the back walls of the lower ruin the smooth cliff face rises 35
-feet to the floor of the cave above. Marks on the face indicate that at
-one time the rooms of the lower building stood several stories high, and
-its roof came to within 4 feet of the cave floor above.
-
- [Illustration: This map shows only the principal ruins in the
- canyons that are open to visitors. Only some of these are discussed
- in the text. The rock formations of these canyons eroded easily,
- thus producing the steep cliffs and cave formations that provided
- protection for the Anasazi.]
-
-The upper ruin contains 10 rooms and has a large room nearly in the
-center of the cave. The outside front wall of this room is 12 feet high
-and still has the coating of white gypsum clay plaster with a decorative
-band of yellow clay for which the ruin was named.
-
-At the western edge of the lower ruin are the partial remains of two
-well-built kivas. One kiva used to have holes in the floor like those
-used to support looms in modern Pueblo kivas. The other kiva shows
-evidence of six layers of plaster. Modern Zuni Indians have a ceremony
-every 4 years in which they replaster the smoke-stained kiva interior,
-and this tradition may give some idea of how long this kiva was in use.
-
-A study of the annual growth rings of its roof timbers indicates that
-most of the lower ruin was built after A.D. 1070.
-
-
-ANTELOPE HOUSE
-
-Many large ruins are located in the narrow and twisting Canyon del
-Muerto. One of the biggest is Antelope House, some 5 miles above del
-Muerto's junction with Canyon de Chelly. This 40- to 50-room village was
-built on the stream bank against the base of a cliff which towers nearly
-600 feet above it.
-
-Antelope House received its name from four antelopes painted in tan and
-white, about half life size, high on the cliff nearby. Navajo families
-living in the canyon believe that these well-executed paintings were
-done by Dibe Yazhi (Little Sheep), a Navajo artist who lived here in the
-1830's. Other figures in white paint are probably the work of the
-prehistoric inhabitants of Antelope House.
-
-Because it stands on the river bank, Antelope House has also eroded
-badly. Yet many of the house walls still rise two and three stories
-high, and the masonry outlines of dozens of unexcavated rubble-filled
-rooms and of two kivas can still be seen.
-
- [Illustration: Antelope House in Canyon del Muerto is on the canyon
- floor under a towering, overhanging cliff.]
-
- [Illustration: An Anasazi pictograph.]
-
-The famous "Burial of the Weaver" was found in a small cliff alcove not
-far from Antelope House. The grave was against the cliff, and a curved
-masonry wall in front held back the earth. Inside was the tightly flexed
-body of an old man lying on his left side. His hair was streaked with
-gray and tied back in a bob; a billet of wood served as a pillow. The
-body's outer wrapping was a feather blanket made from the breast down of
-golden eagles. Under the feather cloth was a white cotton blanket,
-excellently made and appearing as clean and new as if freshly woven; and
-under the white blanket was an old gray cotton blanket. Beneath that
-blanket, lying on the mummy's breast, was a single ear of corn.
-
-A reed mat covered the floor of the grave, and the amount and variety of
-objects laid away with the body suggest that the individual was highly
-respected in life. A long wooden digging stick, broken to fit into the
-grave, lay across the burial bundle. Beside this, and also broken, was a
-bow so thick that only a powerful arm could have pulled it. With the bow
-was a single reed arrow with a fire-hardened wooden point. Five pottery
-jars, one broken, together with four bowl-shaped baskets woven from
-yucca leaves, were also in the grave. These containers were filled with
-cornmeal, shelled corn, four ears of husked corn, pinyon nuts, beans,
-and salt. Tightly packed around the body and offerings were thick skeins
-of cotton yarn which measured more than 2 miles in length. A spindle
-whorl--a wooden disc on a reed stem which probably had been used to spin
-the cotton--lay on the yarn.
-
- [Illustration: A National Park Service archeologist examines a
- storage jar found at Antelope House.]
-
-
-STANDING COW
-
-This cave in Canyon del Muerto was named for a large white and blue
-pictograph of a cow, drawn in the historic period and undoubtedly the
-work of a Navajo. Not much can be seen of this ancient ruin, for Navajos
-have lived on the site in recent times and still use the old bins for
-storing corn and the leveled areas for drying peaches.
-
-On the cliff near this ruin is an interesting old Navajo painting of
-Spanish cavalrymen.
-
- [Illustration: This blue-headed cow, painted by an early Navajo
- artist on the shelter wall, gave Standing Cow Ruin its name.]
-
- [Illustration: This Navajo rock painting in Canyon del Muerto shows
- a procession of soldiers. It probably records a Spanish expedition
- in the 19th century.]
-
-
-BIG CAVE
-
-One of the largest concentrations of very early material at Canyon de
-Chelly came from Big Cave (Tse-Ya-Tso) in Canyon del Muerto. Tree-ring
-dates ranging from A.D. 331 to 835 indicate an intensive occupation of
-the site in Basketmaker times.
-
-Several burials of interest were found at Big Cave. One was of an old
-man who had broken both legs across the shin bones. The fractures were
-set so well that only the smallest of bumps were left.
-
-The remains of 14 infants were found in a slab-lined cist used earlier
-as a storage bin. Below the infants were the bodies of four other
-children packed in an enormous basket. None showed any signs of
-violence, and it is thought that some disease must have swept through
-the cave, killing many children in a short time.
-
-The unique "Burial of the Hands" was discovered in another part of Big
-Cave. This burial consisted of just a pair of arms and hands lying side
-by side on a bed of grass. The elbows touched the wall of the cave in a
-way that suggested that the rest of the body had not been removed at a
-later time. Three necklaces of abalone shell pendants were wrapped
-around the wrists, and two pairs of exceptionally fine, unworn sandals,
-patterned in black and red, were lying beside the hands, as was a small
-basket half full of white shell beads. Another basket nearly 2 feet in
-diameter covered the burial. No satisfactory explanation of this burial
-has ever been advanced.
-
- [Illustration: Excavations at Big Cave in Canyon del Muerto yielded
- valuable artifacts of the Basketmaker period.]
-
- [Illustration: Mummy Cave, bathed in sun with its flanking ruins
- almost hidden in shadows.]
-
-
-MUMMY CAVE
-
- [Illustration: This fretwork design decorates a kiva in Mummy Cave.]
-
- [Illustration: The central tower structure at Mummy Cave shows
- strong Mesa Verde affiliations and was constructed in A.D. 1284.]
-
-One of the most beautifully situated ruins in the national monument is
-Mummy Cave in Canyon del Muerto 21 miles northeast of park headquarters.
-This dwelling, the largest in the canyons, was built in two adjacent
-caves about 300 feet up a talus slope from the streambed.
-
-The largest part of the structure, about 55 rooms and 4 kivas, was built
-in the eastern cave. The western cave, with about 20 rooms, is now
-accessible only by a ledge from the east cave, although traces of an
-eroded hand-and-toe trail can be seen leading directly from the top of
-the talus to the ruin. Along the ledge connecting the two caves are 15
-rooms, including a "tower" house; these are the best preserved of all
-the ruins here. Much original plaster in several colors remains on inner
-and outer walls throughout the village. Especially notable is the white
-clay plaster on the interior of the third story of the tower house and
-the red-painted fret design on white plaster in the large kiva of the
-east cave.
-
- [Illustration: A Navajo family has settled below the ruins of the
- ancient ones in Canyon del Muerto.]
-
-
-
-
- The People of Canyon de Chelly
-
-
-Though the stunning sheer red cliffs of Canyon de Chelly are easily the
-national monument's most spectacular feature, the area was set aside for
-its importance to the study of prehistoric peoples in the Southwest. The
-architecture, tools, clothing, ceramics, and other decorative or useful
-objects found here contain a comprehensive record of many hundreds of
-years of human activity.
-
-Nothing was known about the ancient culture sheltered here until
-archeologists began piecing together the information gleaned from Canyon
-de Chelly's many ruins and burials. Their story survived because these
-people lived in a physical environment that posed a minimal threat to
-normally fragile remains.
-
-Wherever the remains of ancient man occur in the open, building ruins
-and some objects of stone, bone, and pottery survive, but those of wood
-and fiber disappear completely. Most of what we know about peoples from
-the dim past thus comes from materials that have been buried and
-protected. For the archeologist there are few better sources of
-information than formal burials, which often contain extensive
-offerings, and situations like those at Canyon de Chelly and Canyon del
-Muerto, where sites served as dwelling places for long periods of time
-and the steady accumulation of refuse buried layers of cultural debris.
-
-The extremely arid conditions in the caves of these canyons offered
-additional protection. The climate here is so dry that human burials are
-perfectly preserved as natural mummies or desiccated bodies (there being
-no attempt at artificial preservation by these people), and such fragile
-buried objects as baskets more than a thousand years old are in good
-condition.
-
-The people who lived at Canyon de Chelly in prehistoric times are today
-called the Anasazi, a Navajo word meaning "old people." These people
-were the ancestors of modern Pueblo Indians, and they lived in the
-vicinity of northern Arizona and New Mexico, southwestern Colorado, and
-southeastern Utah from about the beginning of the Christian era to the
-end of the 13th century. Over most of that period they lived in these
-canyons. Before they learned to build in the cliffs they located and
-constructed their houses much differently. But the canyons always
-sheltered them, and their homes, their dead, and their debris tell us
-how it was with these people from the beginning to the end of their time
-here.
-
- [Illustration: These bone tools were used to work leather and weave
- baskets.]
-
-
-THE ANASAZI
-
-Early man, a nomadic hunter of big-game animals, came to the Americas
-from Asia over the Bering Strait some time between 20,000 and 15,000
-B.C. Thousands of years later, after the big animals had become extinct,
-larger bands of hunters and gatherers preyed on game animals of species
-still living today. Still later, groups began to settle in favorable
-areas and to grow maize (corn), which reached them from more complex
-cultures in what is now Mexico. From this time on, the spread and
-development of prehistoric Indian cultures in the northern Southwest can
-be traced in increasing detail.
-
-No one knows exactly when the first people arrived in the Canyon de
-Chelly area. But a tree-ring date of A.D. 306 from the West Alcove at
-Mummy Cave and the accumulation of sweepings and ashes at this site
-suggest that people were living in Canyon del Muerto at about the
-beginning of the Christian era.
-
-These early people were primarily farmers rather than nomadic hunters,
-although they still depended to some extent on game animals for food.
-They established their homes in the shelter of the many caves and
-alcoves in the canyon walls, and farmed the mesa tops and canyon
-bottoms. Dogs were their only domestic animal, and corn was their major
-crop and main source of food. Squashes (pumpkins) were grown in some
-quantity, and beans were introduced at an early time. Pinyon nuts and
-acorns, sunflower seeds, yucca and cactus fruit, and small seeds of
-other wild plants were gathered for food.
-
- [Illustration: This burial at Sliding Rock Ruin shows pottery,
- baskets, corn, and the remains of a blanket used in the day-to-day
- life of the Anasazi.]
-
- [Illustration: Ring-baskets of split yucca leaves have been in
- common use from about A.D. 1100 to the present.]
-
- [Illustration: This coiled basket was used for carrying burdens.]
-
- [Illustration: Indian women fastened rabbit fur to lengths of twine
- by twisting them to form a rope of fur such as this one. A number of
- these would then be entwined to form a blanket or a robe.]
-
-The early farmers were accomplished makers of baskets, and for this
-reason archeologists commonly call them Basketmakers. Instead of pottery
-they used baskets for many utilitarian purposes: carrying sacks, burden
-baskets, food containers, cooking pots, water carriers, storage
-containers, and even "coffins." Sometimes plain, often decorated, they
-are the most impressive surviving artifact of the culture which produced
-them. More baskets made by these early people have been found in Canyon
-de Chelly caves than in any other locality.
-
-The caves in Canyon de Chelly have produced no evidence of houses built
-by these early farmers. If these groups had shelters at all, they were
-little more than brush-and-pole windbreaks or lean-tos made of poles and
-skins propped against the sides of the rock shelters. The only
-architectural remains found so far are pits lined with stone slabs and
-located in deposits on the cave floors. These pits were used to store
-corn and wild plant foods.
-
-Permanent dwellings apparently were not constructed until about A.D.
-500. The first such houses of which we have knowledge were small and
-generally insubstantial circular or squarish pits, shallowly dug into
-the ground. They were walled and roofed with brush and dirt or
-mud-covered poles. Later the people often built their houses in deep
-excavations, and then the structures became essentially roofed pits.
-
-The atlatl, or dart-thrower, and dart constituted the early implement
-for hunting and warfare. There is no definite evidence that the Anasazi
-used a bow and arrow until the 7th century, but one find in Canyon del
-Muerto suggests that they were attacked by a group that did use such
-weapons. The evidence was found in a cave across the canyon from
-Antelope House at a typical dwelling site of the early people. It
-appears that a massacre took place inside the cave and the remains of
-the dead were scattered about the floor until almost completely dried or
-skeletonized. The bones were then gathered up and dumped into one of the
-many storage pits that dotted the cave floor, where the archeologists
-found them. Among the artifacts discovered with the bones was a short,
-slender piece of wood, more like the shaft of an arrow than a dart,
-between the ribs and dried skin on the left side of an old woman.
-
-Little clothing was worn in these early years. Men usually wore sandals
-and a loin cloth and women an apron like skirt. In cold weather the only
-additional body covering was a blanket woven from strips of fur.
-
-Several exceptions to this mode of dress have been found. One mummy
-recovered from the slope in front of Mummy Cave (perhaps of a tribal
-leader) was elaborately dressed and had a great many possessions to take
-with him to the spirit world. He was wrapped in a woven robe of rabbit
-fur and had a basket over his face and one under his head. His feet were
-covered with buckskin moccasins lined with soft juniper bark. Buckskin
-leggings were wrapped around his legs from ankle to knee. Another piece
-of buckskin was wound around his waist; one end fell like a breechclout
-to his thighs, and the other end was thrown over his shoulder like a
-toga.
-
-The man's moccasins are a surprising item, because the Anasazi of this
-time usually wore well-made sandals. These sandals were typically woven
-of plant fibers with intricate designs in several colors, and are
-outstanding among the textiles of any prehistoric people.
-
-In the 5th century A.D., the Anasazi acquired from the south the
-technique of making fired pottery, and they adopted the craft rapidly.
-Ceramics was a significant addition to the equipment which these people
-needed to live in what was at best a difficult environment. It made the
-everyday business of cooking food and storing water much easier. During
-the next several centuries the Anasazi achieved a high degree of skill
-in the art of ceramics and produced handsome pots in a variety of
-shapes, decorated both by relief and painting. Various styles of design
-were developed by different groups.
-
- [Illustration: The Anasazi used black-on-white pottery jars at home
- and also for trade with other groups.]
-
-Basketry, the ancient craft, survived the competition from ceramics but
-became less important. Sandals, coiled bowls, plaited yucca trays, and
-rush mattings were still made, but were not as well manufactured or
-designed as they once had been.
-
-Other changes followed the introduction of pottery, and they profoundly
-altered the culture of the Anasazi. More substantial and permanent
-houses were developed, the bow and arrow replaced the dart-thrower and
-dart for hunting and fighting, and handles were placed on stone axes and
-hammers, greatly increasing the effectiveness of these tools. Turkeys
-were domesticated, and their feathers replaced some of the fur in the
-blankets which they used for clothing. New varieties of corn, squash,
-and beans became known, and, more importantly, the cultivation of cotton
-was introduced.
-
- [Illustration: Gourd-shaped black-on-white Anasazi water jar from
- the period A.D. 500 to 700.]
-
-Sometime during these years of change the Anasazi adopted the practice
-of deforming the skulls of their children by the use of rigid
-cradleboards. The cradleboards of their direct ancestors were webbed and
-lined with soft rabbit fur, but a new conception of beauty led them to
-strap newborn infants onto flat, hard boards which flattened the back of
-the skull and broadened the forehead.
-
-These characteristics of the Anasazi developed slowly and were well
-established only around A.D. 750. Sometime after that date they began to
-live above ground, building their homes of upright poles and mud
-plaster. Each family's room adjoined one or more other rooms, making
-more and more compact village units. In the 900's, these pole and mud
-structures gave way to masonry buildings, some of which eventually
-became two-and three-story terraced apartment houses.
-
-The ancient pithouse was not forgotten. Its counterpart survived in
-almost all of the new villages in the form of a circular underground
-room that soon lost all resemblance to a house. Each of the larger
-villages had two or more of these underground rooms, which undoubtedly
-were ceremonial structures, serving as meeting places for men of the
-various clan societies and secret religious brotherhoods and for the
-performance of rituals. The rooms may have functioned very much like
-men's clubhouses. Similar ceremonial rooms of present-day Pueblo Indians
-are called kivas.
-
-Much of the ceremonial activity in the ancient kivas can be inferred
-from the religious practices of modern Pueblo Indians. A large part of
-their ceremonials takes place within the privacy of the kiva and
-includes praying, chanting, and dancing. Details of costumes, in which
-feathers are extensively used, and of dance steps are important, for the
-whole ceremony is a prayer. The rituals are performed as petitions for
-rain, to insure a good harvest, or for success in hunting.
-
-In testimony to the traditions which endure in some human societies, a
-cache of bird feathers, undoubtedly saved to make a costume for such a
-ritual, was found in Big Cave in Canyon del Muerto. A carefully worked
-cylinder of wood was filled with packets of brightly colored feathers
-and bird skins. There were dozens of blue-green skins from mallard
-ducks, and even parrot feathers that must have come from Mexico. Skins
-of a red bird, still not identified, and bundles of hawk and eagle down
-were also found in the cylinder.
-
- [Illustration: The Anasazi
-
- Few regions in North America have such spectacular archeological
- sites as the Four Corners area of the Southwest. This semiarid high
- plateau country, drained by the San Juan River, saw the development
- and later the disappearance of an Indian culture that archeologists
- call the Anasazi.
-
- During the Great Pueblo period, the Anasazi developed three
- important regional centers: Chaco Canyon, Mesa Verde, and the
- Kayenta country. Their influence extended deep into the territories
- of neighboring Indian groups, who followed different agricultural
- traditions. By A.D. 1100, all three had become heavily populated,
- and the Anasazi were building their largest towns and fabled cliff
- dwellings.
-
- The fertile Chaco valley attracted aboriginals early in the 10th
- century. They first built on such sites as Pueblo Bonito, which
- expanded to a village of over 800 rooms. Their pueblos on the valley
- floor near the cliffs tended to be D-shaped, with central courts
- closed by walls often as high as four stories.
-
- A hundred miles to the north, on the steep-cliffed fingers of rock
- of southwest Colorado, the Mesa Verdians built pithouses, pueblos,
- and about 300 cliff dwellings, the largest of which is Cliff Palace.
-
- The decline of the Anasazi culture from its Great Pueblo period
- coincided with a concentration of population at Chaco, Mesa Verde,
- and Kayenta that made the people particularly dependent on a
- year-round flow of water. Long years of drought from 1270 to 1300
- dried up the rivers and caused an exodus from the San Juan River
- region.
-
- First the Chaco residents dispersed southwestward to join their
- cousins in the Little Colorado River area. Then the Mesa Verdians
- moved to the northern Rio Grande Valley of New Mexico. Finally, the
- Kayenta people, the last holdouts, gave up and joined the population
- in what is now the Hopi country.]
-
-Between A.D. 1000 and 1050 the culture of the Anasazi reached its height
-and became stable for a few centuries, until about A.D. 1275-1300. Their
-homes were now substantial buildings of stone masonry, containing
-numerous adjoining rooms. Their kivas followed standard lines and were
-often incorporated in the house structures, though they were sometimes
-built as separate, semisubterranean chambers. No other abrupt changes or
-new forms distinguish this late period, which was essentially a
-continuation and fulfillment of earlier times. The large pueblos, most
-of which were begun about A.D. 1000, are the most outstanding
-development of this period.
-
-In Canyon de Chelly, construction was started on White House and
-Antelope House during these years. Other important population centers
-were developing simultaneously at Mesa Verde (Mesa Verde National Park,
-Colo.), where the largest concentration of surviving cliff dwellings is
-located, and at Chaco Canyon (Chaco Canyon National Monument, N. Mex.),
-where spacious apartment houses, one with more than 800 rooms, were
-constructed on the floor of the canyon. Other villages were built in the
-Kayenta-Marsh Pass area (near Navajo National Monument, Ariz.).
-
-As permanent homes gave them social stability and well-developed
-agriculture ensured adequate food, the Anasazi had leisure and
-sufficient security for greater activity in their arts, crafts, and
-ceremonials. As a consequence, trade with other peoples seems to have
-grown and flourished because it brought in the specialized and exotic
-materials needed for rituals and pleasure. Parrots were traded from
-Mexico for their plumage, and ornamental shells from the Gulf of
-California and the West Coast found their way to Anasazi settlements.
-Turquoise, jet, and salt also became important trade items.
-
-The mode of dress changed little. Feather-string blankets were still
-commonly worn in winter. Cotton became almost the only fiber used for
-making cloth. Sandals, which were woven from whole yucca leaves, were
-crude, compared to those of earlier periods. But painted pottery reached
-its highest development in both variety and quality.
-
-These great pueblo centers flourished for about two centuries. But this
-was a time of increasing dryness in the Southwest, and the end for these
-settlements came during a severe drought late in the 13th century.
-Tree-ring data indicate that there was not enough moisture to produce
-crops during most of the years between 1276 and 1299. The drought
-brought crop failures, and the ensuing erosion destroyed the fields.
-Hunger, decline, and migration followed. Family after family and group
-after group left their homes in the cliffs and canyons. Taking what few
-possessions they could carry on their backs, they drifted away in search
-of land with a dependable water supply suitable for farming.
-
-The villages in Canyon de Chelly apparently lasted longer than most and
-may even have provided a temporary haven for refugees from other regions
-to the north. The four-story tower house at Mummy Cave might have been
-built for such refugees by skilled masons from the Mesa Verde area.
-
-By 1300, however, all the great cliff dwellings were abandoned, and the
-people of the Canyon de Chelly area had moved on to new lands. Most of
-them probably joined the tribes that were gathering around Black Mesa to
-the west, near the location of the modern Hopi pueblos. Others may have
-turned south, settling finally near the middle of the present boundary
-between Arizona and New Mexico. Other Anasazi made their way to the
-upper Rio Grande Valley in north-central New Mexico. In these localities
-the Pueblo farmers renewed their way of life, and it was there that
-Spanish explorers found them on their first trip through the region in
-1540-42.
-
-At White House and a few other ruins there is evidence of structural
-additions made long after the villages were abandoned. These and other
-indications of occupation well after 1300 probably represent the work of
-Hopi Indians who used the canyons seasonally for agriculture, taking the
-harvest back to their villages about 70 miles to the west. Peach trees,
-which the Spanish introduced to the Hopi in the 17th century, were
-evidently brought to Canyon de Chelly in either that century or the
-next, and the small orchards still scattered through the canyons were
-started. The use of the canyons by the Hopi probably dropped off rapidly
-after the Navajos appeared in the area in the 18th century.
-
- [Illustration: This pictograph of a soldier on horseback is taken
- from the Navajo rock painting in Canyon del Muerto near Standing Cow
- Ruin.]
-
-
-THE NAVAJOS
-
-The present Indian occupants of Canyon de Chelly are Navajos. They are
-not related to the Anasazi who built the masonry villages now in ruins.
-
-No one is certain just when the Navajos came to this region nor do we
-know exactly where they came from. The best available evidence now
-suggests that these people and their close relatives, the Apaches, both
-of whom speak an Athapascan language, came south along the eastern edge
-of the Rocky Mountains as a single group. They may have reached the
-Southwest between the 13th and the 16th centuries. The earliest mention
-of people who were probably Navajos is in the Oate documents of 1598.
-This account places them in north-central New Mexico, an area they still
-call their homeland but no longer occupy.
-
-The name "Navajo" has never been adequately translated. The first
-interpretation of the word came from Father Alonso de Benavides, a
-Spanish priest who started missionary work among the Navajos. In his
-"Memorial of New Mexico," which was presented to the court of Spain in
-1630, he stated:
-
-_But these Apache de Nabahu [Navajo] are very great farmers for this is
-what Navajo signifies ... great planted fields...._
-
- [Illustration: The pastoral scene shows two contemporary Navajo
- structures. To the left is a modern hogan, and to the right, a
- ramada.]
-
-By 1750, the Navajos had abandoned their homes west of the Chama River
-Valley because of pressure from the Utes to the north. Generally they
-moved westward, but a few split off to the south. We do not know when
-they first entered Canyon de Chelly, but there is evidence at the site
-of Tse-ta'a to suggest that it was after 1700.
-
-Hunters, gatherers, and farmers, the Navajos changed their way of life
-sharply when they acquired horses and sheep from the Spanish after the
-Pueblo Rebellion of 1680. Horses made the Navajos highly mobile and
-increased their ability to raid the alluring towns along the Rio Grande
-and then vanish into mountain and canyon hideouts. Sheep gradually
-changed the basis of their economy, converting them from hunters and
-raiders to the pastoral herders they are today.
-
-After the Spanish reconquered New Mexico in 1692, many Pueblo families
-from the Rio Grande sought sanctuary with the Navajos. Some of these
-refugees were absorbed into the tribe, and they brought with them not
-only weaving, but sheep raising, pottery and basketry techniques,
-architectural and agricultural ideas, the clan system, and much
-religious lore.
-
-Navajo-Spanish relations were generally quiet after the Spanish returned
-because the tribe was preoccupied with fighting the Utes to the north
-and was interested in enlisting Spanish support or, at least,
-forbearance. This comparatively peaceful interlude came to an end in the
-1770's because of land disputes, and friction continued from that time
-until the 1860's.
-
-In 1805, during this period of strife, a Spanish punitive expedition
-entered Canyon de Chelly, bent on taking slaves, or servants as the
-whites called them.
-
-According to the Navajo account of the episode, all the Navajo men had
-gone out on an expedition, leaving the old men, and women, and children
-hidden in a deep ledge high up the canyon wall. Their position was
-strengthened by a wall of loose stones placed along the rim of the
-ledge. As the Spanish troops, commanded by Lt. Antonio Narbona, passed
-below, an old woman who had been a Spanish slave could not resist
-scoffing at them and thus exposed the hiding place.
-
-In a letter on January 25, 1805, to the Governor of New Mexico, Narbona
-described the action which followed:
-
-_On the 17th of the current month I managed to attack in Caon de Chelli
-a great number of enemy Indians and though they entrenched themselves in
-an almost inaccessible spot, and fortified beforehand, we succeeded
-after having battled all day long with the greatest ardor and effort, in
-taking [it] the morning after and that our arms had the result of ninety
-dead warriors, twenty-five women and children, and as prisoners three
-warriors, eight women and twenty-two boys and girls...._
-
-Narbona reported his losses as 1 dead and 64 wounded. Massacre Cave in
-Canyon del Muerto was named for this event.
-
- [Illustration: Massacre Cave sits high up on the west wall of Canyon
- del Muerto, a short way upstream from Mummy Cave.]
-
-The Navajos had been held in partial check by Spanish bribes and
-punitive expeditions, but after Mexico won its independence from Spain
-in 1821, the Navajos returned to raiding in behalf of all those enslaved
-by the Spanish. In 1823, 1833, 1836, and 1838 the Mexicans mounted large
-expeditions against the Navajos, sometimes sending as many as 1,500 men
-after them. It was during this period that Canyon de Chelly was most
-often referred to as the stronghold of the Navajos. Although Mexican
-reprisals often forced the Indians to take temporary refuge north of the
-San Juan River, they were too sporadic to effectively quell the raiders,
-who always came back with new attacks. Conditions were so bad that the
-Navajos boasted they let the Mexicans live on only because they made
-good shepherds for the tribe. The taunt hardly exaggerated their power
-at the time.
-
-Navajo depredations had very nearly decimated the frontier settlements
-in the central Rio Grande Valley of New Mexico when the United States
-went to war with Mexico in 1846. Col. Stephen Watts Kearny had the task
-of seizing the northern Mexican provinces, an area that is now part of
-the American Southwest. In late June 1846 he left Fort Leavenworth,
-Kansas. Marching over the Santa Fe Trail without opposition, Kearny and
-his American Dragoons arrived in Santa Fe on August 18, 1846, and
-proclaimed New Mexico a part of the United States.
-
-When Kearny and the Army of the West marched off to Mexico, Col.
-Alexander W. Doniphan was left behind with orders to invade the Navajo
-country, release captives, reclaim stolen property, and either to awe or
-beat the Indians into submission. In August 1846 he led the first United
-States expedition against the Navajos. Maj. William Gilpin, with 200
-men, entered the Navajo country on the north and swung south to meet
-Doniphan and several Navajo chiefs at Bear Springs near the town of
-Grants, New Mexico, later the site of Fort Wingate. The treaty signed
-there turned out to be little more than a scrap of paper. Five more
-unsuccessful military expeditions were sent against the Navajos between
-1846 and 1849 in vain attempts to end the Indian raids.
-
-In trying to contain the Navajos, the U.S. Government made the same
-mistake that the Mexican and Spanish Governments did before them. They
-all assumed that a single chief led the several Navajo bands. Actually,
-each local Navajo group had its own leader, and time and again treaties
-of "lasting peace with the Navajos" were signed by these local chiefs,
-who spoke only for their own small bands and had no influence with
-others.
-
-The U.S. Army expedition of 1849 clearly illustrated this problem. Lt.
-Col. John W. Washington, military commander of New Mexico, led an
-expedition to Canyon de Chelly, then considered to be the Navajo
-heartland. Washington met local Navajo chiefs on the crest of a small
-hill between the present Thunderbird Guest Ranch and the mouth of the
-canyon. Here on Treaty Hill a treaty of "lasting peace" was signed with
-the Indians. Washington had no sooner returned to Albuquerque, however,
-than he learned that another Navajo band had raided a small village near
-Santa Fe.
-
- [Illustration: Col. E. R. S. Canby led the last campaign against the
- Navajos before the Civil War.]
-
-Regardless of treaties and punitive expeditions, Navajo depredations
-continued. Late in 1851, Col. E. V. Sumner marched into the Navajo
-country in still another effort to settle the problem. After a single
-encounter with the Navajo in Canyon de Chelly, Sumner returned to a spot
-southwest of the Chuska Mountains where he established Fort Defiance in
-the autumn of 1851. Fighting broke out again in 1858, when a Negro slave
-of the post commander at Fort Defiance was killed by a Navajo arrow. The
-Army retaliated with an attack on a party of peaceful Navajos, and the
-Indians retreated northward.
-
-Up to this time, U.S. Army commanders had controlled Indian policies;
-the authority of the civil agents appointed by the Indian Department was
-negligible. But now the civilian agents brought political pressure to
-bear upon the unsuccessful Army. To soothe the politicians, the Army
-drew up still another treaty with the Navajos on December 25, 1858. This
-treaty was the second attempt to outline the boundaries of a proposed
-Navajo reservation. Like an earlier proposal, the Meriweather Treaty of
-1855, it was never ratified.
-
-The year 1859 was relatively peaceful, with few raids on either side.
-But the next year opened with a series of Navajo raids that culminated
-in a concentrated attack on Fort Defiance. Some of the old Navajos who
-participated later recalled that it was a carefully planned assault at
-dawn, with as many as 2,000 warriors taking part. After attacking for
-two hours, the Indians were forced to withdraw.
-
-In the winter of 1860-61, Col. E. R. S. Canby led the last military
-expedition against the Navajos before the Civil War, but his efforts
-failed to bring peace. Zarcillos Largos, a great Navajo leader who had
-worked for more peaceful relations with whites, was killed in an ambush
-during the campaign. The Indians soon resorted to their old tactic of
-dispersing, and the campaign ended with another treaty. When troops were
-withdrawn from Fort Defiance in March 1861 for Civil War duty, the last
-restraint was removed from both sides, and raiding began once more. For
-the Spanish-Americans, it was the high point of their warfare against
-the Navajos.
-
-The job of subjugating the recalcitrant Navajos now fell to Brig. Gen.
-James H. Carleton, commander of the Department of New Mexico and a
-seasoned Indian fighter with 25 years of active service. His earlier
-experience in Indian affairs had convinced Carleton that establishing
-reservations where the Indians could be educated would be the only way
-to get them to settle down. Carleton said:
-
-_Soon they will acquire new habits, new ideas, new modes of life; the
-old Indians will die off, and carry with them the latent longings for
-murdering and robbing; the young ones will take their place without
-these longings; and thus, little by little, they will become a contented
-people...._
-
- [Illustration: Brig. Gen. James H. Carleton defeated the Navajos and
- built Fort Sumner at Bosque Redondo, the Navajo's place of exile.]
-
-In 1863, Carleton drew up plans for a 40-square-mile reservation at Fort
-Sumner on the Pecos River in central New Mexico. He called the new
-reservation Bosque Redondo, which is Spanish for circular thicket.
-
- [Illustration: The valiant Manuelito fought against the whites, but
- without permanent success. In 1863 he was one of a number of
- prominent Navajo leaders.]
-
- [Illustration: Capt. Albert Pfeiffer led his men down Canyon del
- Muerto between these cliffs, destroying hogans and crops.]
-
-When the reservation was ready, Carleton ordered Col. Christopher (Kit)
-Carson to take the field against the Navajos in June 1863. Carson's
-force consisted of four companies of New Mexican Volunteers, two mounted
-and two unmounted, and 200 Ute Indians, who were guides and scouts,
-altogether a force of about 1,000 men. Their first operation was to
-reoccupy and repair the abandoned Fort Defiance, which they renamed Fort
-Canby in honor of General Canby.
-
-The Navajos were led by Barboncito of Canyon de Chelly, a spokesman for
-the bands living west of the Chuska Mountains, and Manuelito, a leader
-of those who dwelt east of the mountains. Many subchiefs, as usual, led
-individual bands.
-
-Carson had orders from General Carleton to destroy all cornfields and
-livestock. He sent word to the Navajos that they should surrender at
-Fort Canby, and then moved into the field to persuade them. The first
-skirmish took place in August near the fort. Under constant pressure
-from the military through the winter of 1863, their herds being killed
-and crops burned, the Navajos were soon destitute and began to surrender
-in small numbers.
-
-The crowning blow to Navajo pride, however, was the Army's ostentatious
-penetration of Canyon de Chelly, their most secure refuge. A detachment
-of men under Capt. Albert Pfeiffer carried the "Navaho Fortress" in
-January 1864. Entering through Canyon del Muerto, Pfeiffer guarded the
-junction while Capt. A. B. Carey led a detail through the main gorge of
-de Chelly, marching west to east. Captain Pfeiffer described his
-progress through del Muerto:
-
-_My travel through the caon, for the first 12 miles, was accomplished
-on the ice of the bed of the stream which courses through it.... Lt. C.
-M. Hubbell, who was in charge of the rear, had a great deal of trouble
-in proceeding with the pack trains, as the mules frequently broke
-through the ice and tumbled down with their loads. All the Indian
-prisoners taken thus far were half starved and naked. The caon has no
-road except the bottom of the creek. We traveled mostly on the ice, our
-animals breaking through every few minutes, and one mule split
-completely open under the exhausting fatigue of the march. On the 12th
-instant traveled 8 miles; had several skirmishes with the enemy. Indians
-on both sides of the caon whooping, yelling and cursing, firing shots
-and throwing rocks down upon my command. Killed two buck Indians in the
-encounter and one squaw, who obstinately persisted in hurling rocks and
-pieces of wood at the soldiers. Six prisoners were captured on this
-occasion. Lieutenant Hubbell followed up some Indians in a tributary
-caon, but could not overtake them on account of the steepness of the
-hillsides, where nothing save an Indian or mountain goat could make
-their way...._
-
-This raid, which netted only about 100 prisoners, convinced the Navajos
-that even though Carson was not out to destroy them, he would go
-anywhere to ferret them out. They had no choice but to surrender at Fort
-Canby. Shortly after the Canyon de Chelly raid some 500 Navajos, with
-their flocks, straggled into the fort. By February 15, 1864, 1,500
-Navajos were being fed and clothed there, and by the first of March
-about 2,400.
-
-The much storied "Long Walk" and exile of the Navajos began on March 6,
-1864, when these 2,400 people with 30 wagons, 400 horses, and 3,000
-sheep and goats left Fort Canby for Bosque Redondo, 300 miles away in
-New Mexico Territory. Only the aged, the children, and the crippled rode
-in wagons--all others walked the entire distance. One old Navajo
-recalled the exodus in later years, saying:
-
-_It was a great sight, we stretched from Fort Defiance to the Window
-Rock 'haystacks' ... a distance of about 7 miles._
-
-On March 14-15, a second group of about 3,000 Navajos began the foot
-journey. The last large escort of Navajos to Fort Sumner was on April
-24, when 1,200 persons started their "Long Walk."
-
- [Illustration: This old army map shows the military posts of the
- 1860's. The red line traces the "Long Walk" of the defeated Navajos
- to Fort Sumner at Bosque Redondo.
-
- High-resolution Map]
-
- [Illustration: Scenes of the Navajos in their place of exile at Fort
- Sumner on the Pecos River. The top view shows them lined up to
- receive their issue of food and clothing.
- National Archives
- Museum of New Mexico
- National Archives]
-
-Not all the Navajos surrendered. Many tribesmen remained free and
-continued to raid settlements. On April 9, 1864, the very day that the
-Governor of New Mexico had set aside to celebrate the end of the Navajo
-war, a band of Navajos stole 40 head of cattle from Laguna Pueblo, 140
-miles southwest of Canyon de Chelly. Those who surrendered endured
-extreme hardship at Fort Sumner from disease, crop failure, famine, and
-their sense of exile from their homeland. After 4 years, the several
-thousand reservation Navajos were broken in body and spirit, while their
-still-free tribesmen continued their troublesome guerrilla activities.
-Carleton's experiment was judged a complete failure.
-
-The Government then decided that the Navajos should return to a part of
-their old homeland. A new treaty signed on June 1, 1868, stated that the
-tribe and the United States were at peace, and in it the Navajos pledged
-to stop their raiding. In return, the Government promised the tribe
-school facilities and a reservation that included Canyon de Chelly in
-its total area of 3,500,000 acres. The Navajos were to stay within this
-reservation.
-
-Twenty-nine Navajo chiefs and council members signed the treaty, and the
-Navajos began leaving Fort Sumner almost immediately, slipping away
-family by family. Those without horses or who had old or sick persons in
-their family awaited Government transportation. On June 15, a wagon
-train with a military escort carried the last Navajos from Fort Sumner
-to Fort Wingate. There the tribe waited while final arrangements were
-worked out.
-
-By November the new reservation boundaries had been surveyed and shown
-to the tribe's head men, and a headquarters for the Indian agent had
-been prepared at Fort Defiance. At long last the Navajos were allowed to
-go home. They were now united into a single tribe with leaders,
-appointed by the Indian agents, to represent them in their dealings with
-the whites. But their troubles were not over.
-
-Only a fraction of the Navajos' sheep had survived Carson's slaughter
-and the years of famine at Fort Sumner. The treaty had promised sheep
-and goats to replenish the herds, but more than a year passed before any
-were received. Meantime, hunger pursued the Navajos, and they had to
-exist on army issue rations of beef, coffee, and flour.
-
-The treaty also promised that during the first 10 years--called the
-Treaty Years--each family head who took up farming would receive $25
-worth of agricultural tools and supplies every 2 years to help him in
-his new pursuit. It was 14 years before this promise was fulfilled, and
-the tribe was badly hampered in their efforts to fill out their slender
-larder through agriculture.
-
-During these years the Navajos eked out a living through their
-traditional crafts of weaving and silver working. Blankets and wool were
-beginning to find a market in the expanding settlements of the Rio
-Grande Valley, at army posts, and in the Mormon settlements of Utah. In
-1869, the first trading post was established on the reservation, and it
-provided the tribe with a source of supplies and an outlet for their
-wares. As Navajo blankets, wool, and silverwork became more important,
-other traders entered the Navajo country.
-
-Still there was little substantial change in either the Navajo's mode of
-life or their economy by the end of the Treaty Years in 1878. True, the
-tribe and their flocks had increased in numbers especially after 1872,
-when the U.S. Government distributed 10,000 sheep among them. The coming
-of the railroad in 1881-82, however, accelerated change and growth in
-the Navajos more than any other event. New techniques for making a
-living, learned from working with construction crews, and new
-possessions brought by the railroad, started the people toward the
-modern world.
-
-One vexing problem that has confronted the Navajos since their days at
-Fort Sumner is the lack of adequate grazing land to support an expanding
-population. The reservation boundaries have been enlarged many times
-over the years, but now there is no space for further expansion. Today
-the tribe numbers over 120,000 members, and tribal lands cannot support
-that large a population nor the uncontrolled grazing that it causes.
-
-The old way of life is gradually being replaced. In 1924, Congress
-granted citizenship rights to all Indians in recognition of their
-service during World War I when their men enlisted by the hundreds, even
-though exempt from the draft. After 1923 Navajo tribal business became
-less of a haphazard affair. A tribal council, made up of elected
-delegates, began to handle contacts with the world beyond the
-reservation. Little or no work was done to remedy undesirable conditions
-on the reservation until the public works program of the 1930's, when a
-good many schools and hospitals were built. During World War II,
-hundreds of young Navajo men enlisted in the armed forces and other
-thousands went into war work. These involvements in American society
-demonstrated that an education was essential if Indians were to compete
-successfully in the outer world, and so the tribal council passed a
-compulsory schooling law in 1947. Many schools and hospitals were built
-in the 1950's and 1960's.
-
- [Illustration: A Navajo weaver, 1873. Their looms have changed
- little in the years since then.]
-
-Little by little the Navajos became acquainted with the world outside
-the reservation and learned its ways and advantages. Today their
-prospects for a better life are brighter. Oil, gas, coal, timber, and
-uranium deposits on their lands are being developed for the benefit of
-all the Navajos. Children are more eager to attend school, and many
-Navajos are now leaving the reservation to put their education to work
-at jobs in the larger community. The Navajo people are beginning to find
-a place within the Nation.
-
-Despite these changes and prospects, many Navajo families are still
-seminomadic camp dwellers, following old traditions. Each family's
-grazing land covers about 10 to 15 square miles. Within this area they
-have two or more hogans and corrals, built near suitable grass, water,
-and wood.
-
-In winter the family moves to the foothills or mesa tops to be near a
-plentiful wood supply, for winters in the Navajo country are severe. The
-winter hogans, or houses, are constructed with considerable care by the
-men. Brush shelters are used for cooking and camping in summer.
-
- [Illustration: Navajo headmen inside a summer brush shelter, 1898.]
-
- [Illustration: A Navajo cribbed (log-cabin) style hogan in the high
- pine forest in 1908.]
-
- [Illustration: A modern hogan built of stone and mud-plaster with a
- pane glass window, at Standing Cow Ruin.]
-
-Several types of hogans can be seen on the reservation today. Some
-recent ones attempt to copy houses in off-reservation towns, but most
-follow traditional styles. The earliest type of hogan known is the
-so-called "forked-stick" hogan. This is a tipi-shaped structure made of
-three poles with forked ends that interlock at the top. Spaces between
-this framework are filled with smaller poles; the whole is plastered
-with mud. Another style of hogan is made of cribbed logs and usually has
-six or eight sides, a design made necessary by the shortness of the logs
-available. Circular hogans of stone, adapted from Pueblo Indian masonry
-construction, are sometimes built. The roofs on both types of hogans are
-constructed of cribbed logs and appear domed rather than flat. A feature
-common to every hogan is its door facing east, toward the sunrise.
-
- [Illustration: A Navajo forked-pole hogan, traditionally the
- earliest form used by the tribe. Shaped like a tipi, it is built of
- heavy logs covered with soil.
- National Archives]
-
-Furnishings of hogans were simple and limited, but today tables, chairs,
-cabinets, and beds are commonly used. Food was once cooked in a firepit
-in the center of the floor, below a hole in the roof which allowed the
-smoke to escape, but today it is prepared on stoves which increasingly
-are butane gas or electric models. In good weather, cooking is done
-outside. Iron and aluminum pots and pans have replaced homemade pottery
-and baskets as kitchen utensils.
-
-Water is scarce over much of the reservation and must be hauled in
-wagons or pickup trucks from as far away as 10 miles. Water is used
-sparingly.
-
-The Navajos are fond of goat meat and mutton, which have almost entirely
-replaced the wild game of the old diet. Canned goods from the traders'
-shelves have supplanted the wild plants that used to be gathered and, in
-some homes, have eliminated garden plots of corn and squash. At Fort
-Sumner the Navajos learned to roast and brew coffee and to use wheat
-flour. Now coffee and wheat bread are important items in their diet.
-
-In aboriginal times Navajo clothing was meager. Women wore an apron and
-men a breechclout of buckskin. Footwear probably consisted of yucca
-fiber sandals, although moccasins of animal skins were also common.
-During winter, blankets of animal skins or yucca were added for warmth.
-
-After the Spaniards arrived in the Rio Grande Valley, the Navajos copied
-Spanish costumes. This style, which prevailed until after the return
-from Bosque Redondo in 1868, consisted of tightly buttoned knee-length
-breeches of buckskin, worn with knitted blue stockings copied from those
-of Pueblo men. A V-neck shirt was made from a small blanket or piece of
-flannel and was worn outside the trousers. The shirt was held by a
-leather belt heavily ornamented with silver. Moccasins and leggings of
-dyed buckskin completed the men's dress. When Navajo women began loom
-weaving, they copied the Pueblo woman's woven cotton dress in wool and
-wore it with a woven belt. Dyed buckskin moccasins with wrap-around
-leggings were their footwear.
-
- [Illustration: Navajo clothing of the 19th century, a pair of
- moccasins and a shirt.]
-
- [Illustration: Shirt.]
-
-After Bosque Redondo, cotton clothing in Anglo-American and Mexican
-styles became popular. Today Navajo men wear typical western ranch and
-farm clothing: blue jeans, shirts, and broad-brimmed felt or straw hats.
-The women still prefer the bright calico skirts and velveteen blouses
-which they copied from the styles worn by American women in the mid-19th
-century. The skirt is ankle length and voluminous, containing from 12 to
-15 yards of material. Moccasins of dyed buckskin are still popular with
-the women at home, but modish shoes and stockings have been adopted for
-town wear. In winter, both men and women use commercially made blankets
-draped over their shoulders for protection against the cold.
-
-Today many Navajo men take off-reservation jobs with railroads, in
-lumber camps, or as migratory workers following crop harvests. Sheep
-still play a major role in the family economy, and annual income is
-supplemented by the sale of rugs and, sometimes, silverwork and jewelry.
-
-The Navajos have worn silver ornaments for many years. A 1795 Spanish
-reference mentions that the Navajo captains were rarely seen without
-their silver ornaments, but there is no evidence that they made them at
-that time. They got most of their silver pieces by trading, and picked
-up others on raids against Ute and Commanche Indians, who in turn had
-obtained them from eastern Indians who were in contact with
-Anglo-American or French traders. A great many silver ornaments probably
-came from the Spaniards.
-
-Present evidence indicates that the Navajos learned silversmithing
-sometime after 1850. Old silversmiths in the tribe have claimed that
-Mexicans taught them the craft during the Bosque Redondo captivity,
-citing their first smith, Atsidi Sani or "Old Smith," who was taught by
-a Mexican blacksmith.
-
- [Illustration: An early Navajo silversmith named
- Slim-Maker-of-Silver.
- Museum of New Mexico]
-
- [Illustration: Ring.]
-
- [Illustration: Navajo silver bracelets and ring from the period
- 1880-1900.
- Smithsonian Institution]
-
- [Illustration: Recent Navajo bracelets.]
-
- [Illustration: A Navajo vegetal-dye rug, hand woven from hand-spun,
- home-grown wool. It is representative of the Chinle style.]
-
- [Illustration: A Navajo wife weaving a rug in her front yard at
- their home near Standing Cow Ruin.]
-
- [Illustration: A Navajo girl and her dogs guard the family sheep
- near Big Cave.]
-
-By 1881 they had completely mastered the art, and began to use turquoise
-in their jewelry. Commercialization of their silver-work began in 1899,
-when the Fred Harvey Company first placed large orders for pieces to
-sell to tourists.
-
-Perhaps more than anything else, the colorful rugs and silver and
-turquoise jewelry produced by these people have made the name "Navajo" a
-household word. The two crafts did not develop simultaneously, for
-weaving is almost two centuries older than silversmithing. The Navajo
-mastery of both skills is exceptional, however, and both lend themselves
-readily to Navajo designs.
-
-The loom used in Navajo weaving is a native American device, similar to
-that of the ancient Pueblo people. It has changed little over the
-centuries. Men usually construct the loom and women do the weaving.
-
-In spite of three centuries of work by Christian missionaries, the
-Navajos have clung to their native religion. Their religious leaders are
-medicine men, or healers, and their rites are intended primarily to
-secure and maintain good health.
-
-The ceremonies, called chants, sometimes last as long as 9 days. They
-consist of songs, dances, the construction of sand paintings, and the
-administration of herbal medicines and sweat baths.
-
-The Navajos, a unique people in many ways, are far from being
-"vanishing" Americans. Vigorous and growing in numbers, they have only
-recently begun to understand their potential. While they are making
-rapid strides to join the world around them, they are keenly aware of
-their own heritage and what it can contribute to the larger culture of
-America.
-
-
-
-
- Further Reading
-
-
-Kluckholm, Clyde, and Dorothea Leighton. _The Navaho._ Cambridge, Mass.
- 1946.
-
-McGregor, John C. _Southwestern Archeology._ Second Ed. Urbana, Ill.
- 1965.
-
-Morris, Ann A. _Digging in the Southwest._ N.Y. 1934.
-
-Underhill, Ruth M. _The Navajos._ Norman, Okla. 1956.
-
-Wormington, H. M. _Prehistoric Indians of the Southwest._ Third Ed.
- Denver, Colo. 1956.
-
- [Illustration: DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR March 3, 1849]
-
-_As the Nation's principal conservation agency, the Department of the
-Interior has basic responsibilities for water, fish, wildlife, mineral,
-land, park, and recreational resources. Indian and Territorial affairs
-are other major concerns of America's "Department of Natural Resources."
-The Department works to assure the wisest choice in managing all our
-resources so each will make its full contribution to a better United
-States--now and in the future._
-
-_National Park Service_
-
-_U.S. DEPARTMENT of the INTERIOR_
-
-
- * U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1973 O--503-170
- For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing
- Office Washington, D.C. 20402. Price 80 cents, domestic postpaid; 60
- cents, GPO Bookstore
- Stock Number 2405-00508
-
- [Illustration: Book cover]
-
-
-
-
- Transcriber's Notes
-
-
---This etext based on a U.S. government publication is public domain in
- the United States.
-
---Corrected a few palpable typos.
-
---In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
- _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
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-<pre>
-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Canyon de Chelly, by Zorro A. Bradley
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Canyon de Chelly
- The Story of its Ruins and People
-
-Author: Zorro A. Bradley
-
-Release Date: November 29, 2016 [EBook #53631]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CANYON DE CHELLY ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, MFR and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
-</pre>
-
-<div id="cover" class="img">
-<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Canyon de Chelly: The Story of its Ruins and People" width="600" height="645" />
-</div>
-<div class="box">
-<h1><i>Canyon de Chelly</i></h1>
-<p class="tbcenter"><span class="ss">The Story of its Ruins and People</span></p>
-<p class="center"><span class="ss">by Zorro A. Bradley</span></p>
-<p class="tbcenter"><span class="smaller ss">Office of Publications
-<br />National Park Service
-<br />U.S. Department of the Interior
-<br />Washington, D.C.,
-<br />1973</span></p>
-<p class="center smaller"><i>Library of Congress Catalog Card Number</i> 73-600078</p>
-</div>
-<h2 class="center">Contents</h2>
-<dl class="toc">
-<dt><a href="#c1">Discovery of the Ruins</a> 3</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c2">The Principal Ruins</a> 7</dt>
-<dd><a href="#c3">White House</a> 7</dd>
-<dd><a href="#c4">Antelope House</a> 9</dd>
-<dd><a href="#c5">Standing Cow</a> 12</dd>
-<dd><a href="#c6">Big Cave</a> 13</dd>
-<dd><a href="#c7">Mummy Cave</a> 15</dd>
-<dt><a href="#c8">The People of Canyon de Chelly</a> 17</dt>
-<dd><a href="#c9">The Anasazi</a> 18</dd>
-<dd><a href="#c10">The Navajos</a> 27</dd>
-<dt><a href="#c11">Further Reading</a> 57</dt>
-<dt><span class="left">Maps</span> <span class="jr"><a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></span></dt>
-</dl>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_1">1</div>
-<p class="tb"><i>Far up above me, a thousand feet or so, set in a great cavern in
-the face of the cliff, I saw a little city of stone asleep. It was as still
-as sculpture&mdash;and something like that. It all hung together,
-seemed to have a kind of composition: pale little houses of stone
-nestling close to one another, perched on top of each other, with
-flat roofs, narrow windows, straight walls, and in the middle of
-the group, a round tower....</i></p>
-<p><i>In sunlight it was the colour of winter oak leaves. A fringe of
-cedars grew along the edge of the cavern, like a garden. They
-were the only living things. Such silence and stillness and repose&mdash;immortal
-repose. That village sat looking down into the
-canyon with the calmness of eternity.... I had come upon the
-city of some extinct civilization, hidden away in this inaccessible
-mesa for centuries, preserved in the dry air and almost perpetual
-sunlight like a fly in amber, guarded by the cliffs and the river
-and the desert.</i></p>
-<p><span class="lr">&mdash;<i>Willa Cather</i></span></p>
-<p class="tbcenter"><span class="smaller"><span class="ss">Quotation from <i>The Professor&rsquo;s House</i>, 1925, by permission of Alfred A. Knopf, New York.</span></span></p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_2">2</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig1">
-<img src="images/p32.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="700" />
-<p class="pcap">The righthand section
-of Mummy Cave Ruin
-as it was photographed
-by Ben Wittick in
-1882 during the James
-Stevenson Survey for
-the Smithsonian
-Institution.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_3">3</div>
-<h2 id="c1"><span class="small">Discovery of the Ruins</span></h2>
-<p>Canyon de Chelly National Monument
-is located in the red rock
-country of northeastern Arizona&rsquo;s
-high plateau, near the center of
-the Navajo Indian Reservation.
-Included in its 131 square miles
-are three spectacular canyons&mdash;Canyon
-de Chelly, Canyon del
-Muerto, and Monument Canyon&mdash;and
-many ruins of long-deserted
-villages. Perched in alcoves and
-on high ledges along the sheer-walled
-canyons, these villages are
-evidence of man&rsquo;s ability to adjust
-to a difficult environment, using
-bare hands, simple stone age
-tools, and his own ingenuity. They
-stand as enduring monuments to
-the culture of the ancestors of the
-present-day Pueblo Indians of the
-southwestern United States.</p>
-<p>The ancestors of the Navajo
-Indians who now live in the shadows
-of these deep canyons came
-here long after the earlier peoples
-had left. Originally the Navajos
-did not live in the canyon, but only
-passed through it on their yearly
-migrations. Today some live here
-permanently, and their hogans are
-scattered along the sandy canyon
-floor, almost hidden by the thick
-growth of willows and cottonwoods
-and detectable only by a column
-of smoke slowly rising from a cook
-fire or by the barking of dogs.
-Occasionally one may catch a
-glimpse of a brightly dressed
-woman working around the hogan
-or of black-hatted men trotting
-their horses between the nearby
-trading post, cornfields, or peach
-orchards. A reserved and dignified
-people, they still live in the tradition
-of their fathers.</p>
-<p>The main canyon&rsquo;s name, de
-Chelly, stems from the Navajo
-word &ldquo;Tsegi&rdquo; (pronounced tsay-yih
-or tsay-yhi and meaning &ldquo;Rock
-Canyon&rdquo;), the name by which they
-know the canyon network. Two
-centuries of Spanish and English
-usage have corrupted both the
-form and pronunciation. Most people
-now pronounce it &ldquo;dah-SHAY&rdquo;
-or &ldquo;d&rsquo;SHAY.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The first Europeans to see the
-extensive ruins in Canyon de
-Chelly are unknown. A Spanish
-map of 1776 indicates its location,
-and other documents reveal that
-Spanish military expeditions sometimes
-passed through the neighborhood.
-In 1805, Spanish troops
-entered the canyon while trying to
-suppress Navajo raids. During the
-period of Mexican rule (1821-46),
-a number of military expeditions
-against the Navajo invaded the
-Canyon de Chelly region. Though
-the ruins had not been described
-in writing, the area was fairly well
-known, and by 1846, when the
-&ldquo;Army of the West&rdquo; brought the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_4">4</span>
-region under United States control,
-there were many tall tales and
-rumors about the wonderful cities
-built in the cliffs.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig2">
-<img src="images/p33.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="506" />
-<p class="pcap">Archeological excavations in Canyon del Muerto, 1929.</p>
-</div>
-<p>In 1849, the New Mexico territorial
-government found it necessary
-to request that a U.S. Army
-expedition be sent to subdue the
-Navajos. Lt. J. H. Simpson of the
-Topographical Engineers accompanied
-the troops. His journal,
-published in 1850, contained the
-first detailed account of some of
-the Canyon de Chelly ruins.</p>
-<p>After Simpson&rsquo;s visit, other
-military expeditions and a few
-civilian parties probably entered
-the canyons. No archeological
-investigations were made, however,
-until 1882, when James
-Stevenson surveyed the area for
-the Smithsonian Institution, making
-sketches, photographs, and
-ground plans of 46 ruins in the two
-main canyons.</p>
-<p>Stevenson found two mummies
-in a rock shelter ruin in the northern
-canyon. Because of this find
-the ruin is known as Mummy Cave,
-and Stevenson gave the canyon
-a Spanish name, Canyon de los
-Muertos, or canyon of the dead
-men. The name has since been
-shortened to del Muerto.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig3">
-<img src="images/p33a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="863" />
-<p class="pcap">First Ruin in the lower part of Canyon de Chelly. It has 10 rooms and two kivas.</p>
-</div>
-<p>Later in 1882, Cosmos Mindeleff,
-also from the Smithsonian and a
-member of Stevenson&rsquo;s party,
-mapped the canyons and showed
-the locations of some of the larger
-ruins. Mindeleff&rsquo;s monumental
-architectural survey of the ruins
-of Canyon de Chelly was published
-in 1896, after two more visits.</p>
-<p>Much of our knowledge about
-material objects used by the early
-Puebloan inhabitants of the canyons
-comes from the work of the
-late Earl H. Morris, who excavated
-a number of the important cave
-sites in the 1920&rsquo;s. Since then a
-comprehensive survey of the monument
-has been carried out by
-David L. De Harport for the Peabody
-Museum of Harvard University,
-and additional excavations
-have been conducted by National
-Park Service archeologists.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_6">6</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig4">
-<img src="images/p34.jpg" alt="" width="695" height="760" />
-<p class="pcap">The upper and lower White House ruins were probably connected
-when the ancient Indians lived there.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_7">7</div>
-<h2 id="c2"><span class="small">The Principal Ruins</span></h2>
-<p>Within the national monument are
-perhaps 800 prehistoric and
-historic Indian village sites, representing
-various stages of Pueblo
-and later Navajo cultural development
-and spanning a period of
-about 1,800 years. The most
-interesting and important ruins are
-described below.</p>
-<h3 id="c3">WHITE HOUSE</h3>
-<p>Located up the main canyon,
-about 6 miles from Park Service
-headquarters, White House is one
-of the largest, best preserved,
-and most accessible ruins in the
-monument.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig5">
-<img src="images/p34a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="433" />
-<p class="pcap">A kiva at the White House ruin, where religious and other ceremonies were held.</p>
-</div>
-<p>Lt. J. H. Simpson described this
-ruin after his 1849 visit, calling it
-Casa Blanca (White House). It is
-also known by its Navajo name,
-Kini-na-e-kai. Both names derive
-from a conspicuous white-plastered
-wall in the upper portion.</p>
-<p>White House was constructed in
-two sections; one stands against
-the base of the cliff on the canyon
-floor, and the other is in a small
-cave immediately above. Mindeleff
-estimated that at one time the
-whole ruin contained as many as
-80 rooms. Much of the lower building
-has probably been washed
-away by the stream nearby (a
-retaining wall now helps to prevent
-this), but evidence of about 60
-rooms and 4 kivas (special ceremonial
-chambers) still survives.</p>
-<p>Behind the back walls of the
-lower ruin the smooth cliff face
-rises 35 feet to the floor of the
-cave above. Marks on the face
-indicate that at one time the rooms
-of the lower building stood several
-stories high, and its roof came to
-within 4 feet of the cave floor
-above.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_8">8</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig6">
-<img src="images/p35.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="815" />
-<p class="pcap">This map shows only the principal ruins in the canyons that are
-open to visitors. Only some of these are discussed in the text.
-The rock formations of these canyons eroded easily, thus producing
-the steep cliffs and cave formations that provided protection
-for the Anasazi.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_9">9</div>
-<p>The upper ruin contains 10
-rooms and has a large room nearly
-in the center of the cave. The outside
-front wall of this room is 12
-feet high and still has the coating
-of white gypsum clay plaster with
-a decorative band of yellow clay
-for which the ruin was named.</p>
-<p>At the western edge of the lower
-ruin are the partial remains of two
-well-built kivas. One kiva used to
-have holes in the floor like those
-used to support looms in modern
-Pueblo kivas. The other kiva shows
-evidence of six layers of plaster.
-Modern Zuni Indians have a ceremony
-every 4 years in which they
-replaster the smoke-stained kiva
-interior, and this tradition may
-give some idea of how long this
-kiva was in use.</p>
-<p>A study of the annual growth
-rings of its roof timbers indicates
-that most of the lower ruin was
-built after A.D. 1070.</p>
-<h3 id="c4">ANTELOPE HOUSE</h3>
-<p>Many large ruins are located in the
-narrow and twisting Canyon del
-Muerto. One of the biggest is
-Antelope House, some 5 miles
-above del Muerto&rsquo;s junction with
-Canyon de Chelly. This 40- to 50-room
-village was built on the
-stream bank against the base of a
-cliff which towers nearly 600 feet
-above it.</p>
-<p>Antelope House received its
-name from four antelopes painted
-in tan and white, about half life
-size, high on the cliff nearby.
-Navajo families living in the canyon
-believe that these well-executed
-paintings were done by
-Dibe Yazhi (Little Sheep), a Navajo
-artist who lived here in the
-1830&rsquo;s. Other figures in white paint
-are probably the work of the prehistoric
-inhabitants of Antelope
-House.</p>
-<p>Because it stands on the river
-bank, Antelope House has also
-eroded badly. Yet many of the
-house walls still rise two and three
-stories high, and the masonry
-outlines of dozens of unexcavated
-rubble-filled rooms and of two
-kivas can still be seen.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_10">10</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig7">
-<img src="images/p36.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="870" />
-<p class="pcap">Antelope House in Canyon del Muerto is
-on the canyon floor under a towering, overhanging cliff.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_11">11</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig8">
-<img src="images/p36a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="515" />
-<p class="pcap">An Anasazi pictograph.</p>
-</div>
-<p>The famous &ldquo;Burial of the
-Weaver&rdquo; was found in a small cliff
-alcove not far from Antelope
-House. The grave was against the
-cliff, and a curved masonry wall
-in front held back the earth. Inside
-was the tightly flexed body of an
-old man lying on his left side. His
-hair was streaked with gray and
-tied back in a bob; a billet of
-wood served as a pillow. The
-body&rsquo;s outer wrapping was a
-feather blanket made from the
-breast down of golden eagles.
-Under the feather cloth was a
-white cotton blanket, excellently
-made and appearing as clean and
-new as if freshly woven; and under
-the white blanket was an old gray
-cotton blanket. Beneath that
-blanket, lying on the mummy&rsquo;s
-breast, was a single ear of corn.</p>
-<p>A reed mat covered the floor of
-the grave, and the amount and
-variety of objects laid away with
-the body suggest that the individual
-was highly respected in life.
-A long wooden digging stick,
-broken to fit into the grave, lay
-across the burial bundle. Beside
-this, and also broken, was a bow
-so thick that only a powerful arm
-could have pulled it. With the bow
-was a single reed arrow with a
-fire-hardened wooden point. Five
-pottery jars, one broken, together
-with four bowl-shaped baskets
-woven from yucca leaves, were
-also in the grave. These containers
-were filled with cornmeal, shelled
-corn, four ears of husked corn,
-pinyon nuts, beans, and salt.
-Tightly packed around the body
-and offerings were thick skeins of
-cotton yarn which measured more
-than 2 miles in length. A spindle
-whorl&mdash;a wooden disc on a reed
-stem which probably had been
-used to spin the cotton&mdash;lay on
-the yarn.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig9">
-<img src="images/p36b.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="669" />
-<p class="pcap">A National Park Service archeologist
-examines a storage jar found at Antelope House.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_12">12</div>
-<h3 id="c5">STANDING COW</h3>
-<p>This cave in Canyon del Muerto
-was named for a large white and
-blue pictograph of a cow, drawn
-in the historic period and undoubtedly
-the work of a Navajo. Not
-much can be seen of this ancient
-ruin, for Navajos have lived on the
-site in recent times and still use
-the old bins for storing corn and
-the leveled areas for drying
-peaches.</p>
-<p>On the cliff near this ruin is an
-interesting old Navajo painting of
-Spanish cavalrymen.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig10">
-<img src="images/p37.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="600" />
-<p class="pcap">This blue-headed cow, painted by an early
-Navajo artist on the shelter wall, gave Standing Cow Ruin its name.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig11">
-<img src="images/p37a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="643" />
-<p class="pcap">This Navajo rock painting in Canyon del Muerto shows a
-procession of soldiers. It probably records a Spanish expedition in
-the 19th century.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_13">13</div>
-<h3 id="c6">BIG CAVE</h3>
-<p>One of the largest concentrations
-of very early material at Canyon
-de Chelly came from Big Cave
-(Tse-Ya-Tso) in Canyon del
-Muerto. Tree-ring dates ranging
-from A.D. 331 to 835 indicate an
-intensive occupation of the site
-in Basketmaker times.</p>
-<p>Several burials of interest were
-found at Big Cave. One was of an
-old man who had broken both legs
-across the shin bones. The fractures
-were set so well that only
-the smallest of bumps were left.</p>
-<p>The remains of 14 infants were
-found in a slab-lined cist used
-earlier as a storage bin. Below
-the infants were the bodies of
-four other children packed in an
-enormous basket. None showed
-any signs of violence, and it is
-thought that some disease must
-have swept through the cave,
-killing many children in a short
-time.</p>
-<p>The unique &ldquo;Burial of the
-Hands&rdquo; was discovered in another
-part of Big Cave. This burial consisted
-of just a pair of arms and
-hands lying side by side on a bed
-of grass. The elbows touched the
-wall of the cave in a way that
-suggested that the rest of the body
-had not been removed at a later
-time. Three necklaces of abalone
-shell pendants were wrapped
-around the wrists, and two pairs of
-exceptionally fine, unworn sandals,
-patterned in black and red, were
-lying beside the hands, as was a
-small basket half full of white
-shell beads. Another basket nearly
-2 feet in diameter covered the
-burial. No satisfactory explanation
-of this burial has ever been advanced.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig12">
-<img src="images/p37b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="491" />
-<p class="pcap">Excavations at Big Cave in Canyon del Muerto
-yielded valuable artifacts of the Basketmaker period.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_14">14</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig13">
-<img src="images/p38.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="851" />
-<p class="pcap">Mummy Cave, bathed in sun with its flanking
-ruins almost hidden in shadows.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_15">15</div>
-<h3 id="c7">MUMMY CAVE</h3>
-<div class="img" id="fig14">
-<img src="images/p38a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="455" />
-<p class="pcap">This fretwork design decorates a kiva in Mummy Cave.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig15">
-<img src="images/p38b.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="680" />
-<p class="pcap">The central tower structure at Mummy Cave shows strong
-Mesa Verde affiliations and was constructed in A.D. 1284.</p>
-</div>
-<p>One of the most beautifully situated
-ruins in the national monument
-is Mummy Cave in Canyon
-del Muerto 21 miles northeast of
-park headquarters. This dwelling,
-the largest in the canyons, was
-built in two adjacent caves about
-300 feet up a talus slope from
-the streambed.</p>
-<p>The largest part of the structure,
-about 55 rooms and 4 kivas, was
-built in the eastern cave. The
-western cave, with about 20 rooms,
-is now accessible only by a ledge
-from the east cave, although
-traces of an eroded hand-and-toe
-trail can be seen leading directly
-from the top of the talus to the
-ruin. Along the ledge connecting
-the two caves are 15 rooms, including
-a &ldquo;tower&rdquo; house; these
-are the best preserved of all the
-ruins here. Much original plaster
-in several colors remains on inner
-and outer walls throughout the
-village. Especially notable is the
-white clay plaster on the interior
-of the third story of the tower
-house and the red-painted fret
-design on white plaster in the
-large kiva of the east cave.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_16">16</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig16">
-<img src="images/p39.jpg" alt="" width="623" height="700" />
-<p class="pcap">A Navajo family has settled below the ruins
-of the ancient ones in Canyon del Muerto.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_17">17</div>
-<h2 id="c8"><span class="small">The People of Canyon de Chelly</span></h2>
-<p>Though the stunning sheer red
-cliffs of Canyon de Chelly are
-easily the national monument&rsquo;s
-most spectacular feature, the area
-was set aside for its importance to
-the study of prehistoric peoples
-in the Southwest. The architecture,
-tools, clothing, ceramics, and
-other decorative or useful objects
-found here contain a comprehensive
-record of many hundreds of
-years of human activity.</p>
-<p>Nothing was known about the
-ancient culture sheltered here
-until archeologists began piecing
-together the information gleaned
-from Canyon de Chelly&rsquo;s many
-ruins and burials. Their story survived
-because these people lived
-in a physical environment that
-posed a minimal threat to normally
-fragile remains.</p>
-<p>Wherever the remains of ancient
-man occur in the open, building
-ruins and some objects of stone,
-bone, and pottery survive, but
-those of wood and fiber disappear
-completely. Most of what we know
-about peoples from the dim past
-thus comes from materials that
-have been buried and protected.
-For the archeologist there are few
-better sources of information than
-formal burials, which often contain
-extensive offerings, and situations
-like those at Canyon de Chelly
-and Canyon del Muerto, where
-sites served as dwelling places
-for long periods of time and
-the steady accumulation of refuse
-buried layers of cultural debris.</p>
-<p>The extremely arid conditions in
-the caves of these canyons offered
-additional protection. The climate
-here is so dry that human burials
-are perfectly preserved as natural
-mummies or desiccated bodies
-(there being no attempt at artificial
-preservation by these people),
-and such fragile buried objects
-as baskets more than a thousand
-years old are in good condition.</p>
-<p>The people who lived at Canyon
-de Chelly in prehistoric times are
-today called the Anasazi, a Navajo
-word meaning &ldquo;old people.&rdquo;
-These people were the ancestors
-of modern Pueblo Indians, and
-they lived in the vicinity of northern
-Arizona and New Mexico,
-southwestern Colorado, and southeastern
-Utah from about the beginning
-of the Christian era to the
-end of the 13th century. Over most
-of that period they lived in these
-canyons. Before they learned to
-build in the cliffs they located and
-constructed their houses much
-differently. But the canyons always
-sheltered them, and their homes,
-their dead, and their debris tell us
-how it was with these people from
-the beginning to the end of their
-time here.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_18">18</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig17">
-<img src="images/p40.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="595" />
-<p class="pcap">These bone tools were used to work leather and weave baskets.</p>
-</div>
-<h3 id="c9">THE ANASAZI</h3>
-<p>Early man, a nomadic hunter of
-big-game animals, came to the
-Americas from Asia over the
-Bering Strait some time between
-20,000 and 15,000 B.C. Thousands
-of years later, after the big animals
-had become extinct, larger bands
-of hunters and gatherers preyed
-on game animals of species still
-living today. Still later, groups
-began to settle in favorable areas
-and to grow maize (corn), which
-reached them from more complex
-cultures in what is now Mexico.
-From this time on, the spread and
-development of prehistoric Indian
-cultures in the northern Southwest
-can be traced in increasing detail.</p>
-<p>No one knows exactly when the
-first people arrived in the Canyon
-de Chelly area. But a tree-ring
-date of A.D. 306 from the West
-Alcove at Mummy Cave and the
-accumulation of sweepings and
-ashes at this site suggest that
-people were living in Canyon del
-Muerto at about the beginning of
-the Christian era.</p>
-<p>These early people were primarily
-farmers rather than nomadic
-hunters, although they still depended
-to some extent on game
-animals for food. They established
-their homes in the shelter of the
-many caves and alcoves in the
-canyon walls, and farmed the mesa
-tops and canyon bottoms. Dogs
-were their only domestic animal,
-and corn was their major crop
-and main source of food. Squashes
-(pumpkins) were grown in some
-quantity, and beans were introduced
-at an early time. Pinyon
-nuts and acorns, sunflower seeds,
-yucca and cactus fruit, and small
-seeds of other wild plants were
-gathered for food.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_19">19</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig18">
-<img src="images/p40a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="862" />
-<p class="pcap">This burial at Sliding Rock Ruin shows pottery, baskets, corn,
-and the remains of a blanket used in the day-to-day life of the Anasazi.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_20">20</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig19">
-<img src="images/p41.jpg" alt="" width="433" height="267" />
-<p class="pcap">Ring-baskets of split yucca leaves have been
-in common use from about A.D. 1100 to the present.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig20">
-<img src="images/p41a.jpg" alt="" width="599" height="261" />
-<p class="pcap">This coiled basket was used for carrying burdens.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig21">
-<img src="images/p41b.jpg" alt="" width="527" height="256" />
-<p class="pcap">Indian women fastened rabbit fur to lengths of twine by twisting
-them to form a rope of fur such as this one. A number of these would
-then be entwined to form a blanket or a robe.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_21">21</div>
-<p>The early farmers were accomplished
-makers of baskets, and for
-this reason archeologists commonly
-call them Basketmakers.
-Instead of pottery they used
-baskets for many utilitarian purposes:
-carrying sacks, burden
-baskets, food containers, cooking
-pots, water carriers, storage containers,
-and even &ldquo;coffins.&rdquo;
-Sometimes plain, often decorated,
-they are the most impressive
-surviving artifact of the culture
-which produced them. More
-baskets made by these early people
-have been found in Canyon de Chelly
-caves than in any other locality.</p>
-<p>The caves in Canyon de Chelly
-have produced no evidence of
-houses built by these early farmers.
-If these groups had shelters
-at all, they were little more than
-brush-and-pole windbreaks or
-lean-tos made of poles and skins
-propped against the sides of the
-rock shelters. The only architectural
-remains found so far are pits
-lined with stone slabs and located
-in deposits on the cave floors.
-These pits were used to store corn
-and wild plant foods.</p>
-<p>Permanent dwellings apparently
-were not constructed until about
-A.D. 500. The first such houses of
-which we have knowledge were
-small and generally insubstantial
-circular or squarish pits, shallowly
-dug into the ground. They were
-walled and roofed with brush and
-dirt or mud-covered poles. Later
-the people often built their houses
-in deep excavations, and then the
-structures became essentially
-roofed pits.</p>
-<p>The atlatl, or dart-thrower, and
-dart constituted the early implement
-for hunting and warfare.
-There is no definite evidence that
-the Anasazi used a bow and arrow
-until the 7th century, but one find
-in Canyon del Muerto suggests
-that they were attacked by a group
-that did use such weapons. The
-evidence was found in a cave
-across the canyon from Antelope
-House at a typical dwelling site of
-the early people. It appears that
-a massacre took place inside
-the cave and the remains of the
-dead were scattered about
-the floor until almost completely
-dried or skeletonized. The bones
-were then gathered up and
-dumped into one of the many
-storage pits that dotted the cave
-floor, where the archeologists
-found them. Among the artifacts
-discovered with the bones was a
-short, slender piece of wood, more
-like the shaft of an arrow than a
-dart, between the ribs and dried skin
-on the left side of an old woman.</p>
-<p>Little clothing was worn in these
-early years. Men usually wore
-sandals and a loin cloth and
-women an apron like skirt. In cold
-weather the only additional body
-covering was a blanket woven
-from strips of fur.</p>
-<p>Several exceptions to this mode
-of dress have been found. One
-mummy recovered from the slope
-in front of Mummy Cave (perhaps
-of a tribal leader) was elaborately
-dressed and had a great many
-possessions to take with him to
-the spirit world. He was wrapped
-in a woven robe of rabbit fur and
-<span class="pb" id="Page_22">22</span>
-had a basket over his face and
-one under his head. His feet were
-covered with buckskin moccasins
-lined with soft juniper bark. Buckskin
-leggings were wrapped
-around his legs from ankle to knee.
-Another piece of buckskin was
-wound around his waist; one end
-fell like a breechclout to his
-thighs, and the other end was
-thrown over his shoulder like a
-toga.</p>
-<p>The man&rsquo;s moccasins are a surprising
-item, because the Anasazi
-of this time usually wore well-made
-sandals. These sandals were
-typically woven of plant fibers with
-intricate designs in several colors,
-and are outstanding among the
-textiles of any prehistoric people.</p>
-<p>In the 5th century A.D., the
-Anasazi acquired from the south
-the technique of making fired
-pottery, and they adopted the craft
-rapidly. Ceramics was a significant
-addition to the equipment which
-these people needed to live in
-what was at best a difficult environment.
-It made the everyday
-business of cooking food and storing
-water much easier. During
-the next several centuries the
-Anasazi achieved a high degree of
-skill in the art of ceramics and
-produced handsome pots in a
-variety of shapes, decorated both
-by relief and painting. Various
-styles of design were developed by
-different groups.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig22">
-<img src="images/p42.jpg" alt="" width="573" height="489" />
-<p class="pcap">The Anasazi used black-on-white pottery jars at
-home and also for trade with other groups.</p>
-</div>
-<p>Basketry, the ancient craft, survived the competition from ceramics
-but became less important. Sandals, coiled bowls, plaited
-yucca trays, and rush mattings were still made, but were not as
-well manufactured or designed as they once had been.</p>
-<p>Other changes followed the introduction of pottery, and they
-profoundly altered the culture of the Anasazi. More substantial and
-permanent houses were developed, the bow and arrow replaced
-the dart-thrower and dart for hunting and fighting, and handles
-were placed on stone axes and hammers, greatly increasing the
-effectiveness of these tools. Turkeys were domesticated, and
-their feathers replaced some of the fur in the blankets which
-they used for clothing. New varieties of corn, squash, and
-beans became known, and, more importantly, the cultivation of
-cotton was introduced.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_23">23</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig23">
-<img src="images/p42a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="765" />
-<p class="pcap">Gourd-shaped black-on-white Anasazi water jar from the period A.D. 500 to 700.</p>
-</div>
-<p>Sometime during these years of
-change the Anasazi adopted the
-practice of deforming the skulls
-of their children by the use of
-rigid cradleboards. The cradleboards
-of their direct ancestors
-were webbed and lined with soft
-rabbit fur, but a new conception of
-beauty led them to strap newborn
-infants onto flat, hard boards
-which flattened the back of the
-skull and broadened the forehead.</p>
-<p>These characteristics of the
-Anasazi developed slowly and
-were well established only around
-A.D. 750. Sometime after that date
-they began to live above ground,
-building their homes of upright
-poles and mud plaster. Each family&rsquo;s
-room adjoined one or more
-other rooms, making more and
-more compact village units. In the
-900&rsquo;s, these pole and mud structures
-gave way to masonry buildings,
-some of which eventually
-became two-and three-story terraced
-apartment houses.</p>
-<p>The ancient pithouse was not
-forgotten. Its counterpart survived
-in almost all of the new villages
-in the form of a circular underground
-room that soon lost all
-resemblance to a house. Each of
-the larger villages had two or
-more of these underground rooms,
-which undoubtedly were ceremonial
-structures, serving as meeting
-places for men of the various
-clan societies and secret religious
-brotherhoods and for the performance
-of rituals. The rooms
-may have functioned very much
-like men&rsquo;s clubhouses. Similar
-ceremonial rooms of present-day
-Pueblo Indians are called kivas.</p>
-<p>Much of the ceremonial activity
-in the ancient kivas can be inferred
-from the religious practices
-of modern Pueblo Indians. A large
-part of their ceremonials takes
-place within the privacy of the kiva
-and includes praying, chanting,
-and dancing. Details of costumes,
-in which feathers are extensively
-used, and of dance steps are important,
-for the whole ceremony
-is a prayer. The rituals are performed
-as petitions for rain, to
-insure a good harvest, or for
-success in hunting.</p>
-<p>In testimony to the traditions
-which endure in some human societies,
-a cache of bird feathers,
-undoubtedly saved to make a costume
-for such a ritual, was found
-in Big Cave in Canyon del Muerto.
-A carefully worked cylinder
-of wood was filled with packets
-of brightly colored feathers and
-bird skins. There were dozens of
-blue-green skins from mallard
-ducks, and even parrot feathers
-that must have come from Mexico.
-Skins of a red bird, still not
-identified, and bundles of hawk
-and eagle down were also found
-in the cylinder.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_24">24</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig24">
-<img src="images/p43.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="1080" />
-<p class="pcap">The Anasazi</p>
-<p class="pcapc">Few regions in North America have such spectacular archeological
-sites as the Four Corners area of the Southwest. This semiarid
-high plateau country, drained by the San Juan River, saw the
-development and later the disappearance of an Indian culture
-that archeologists call the Anasazi.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">During the Great Pueblo period, the Anasazi developed three
-important regional centers: Chaco Canyon, Mesa Verde, and the
-Kayenta country. Their influence extended deep into the territories
-of neighboring Indian groups, who followed different
-agricultural traditions. By A.D. 1100, all three had become
-heavily populated, and the Anasazi were building their largest
-towns and fabled cliff dwellings.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">The fertile Chaco valley attracted aboriginals early in the 10th
-century. They first built on such sites as Pueblo Bonito, which
-expanded to a village of over 800 rooms. Their pueblos on the
-valley floor near the cliffs tended to be D-shaped, with central
-courts closed by walls often as high as four stories.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">A hundred miles to the north, on the steep-cliffed fingers
-of rock of southwest Colorado, the Mesa Verdians built
-pithouses, pueblos, and about 300 cliff dwellings, the largest of
-which is Cliff Palace.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">The decline of the Anasazi culture from its Great Pueblo
-period coincided with a concentration of population at Chaco,
-Mesa Verde, and Kayenta that made the people particularly
-dependent on a year-round flow of water. Long years of drought
-from 1270 to 1300 dried up the rivers and caused an exodus
-from the San Juan River region.</p>
-<p class="pcapc">First the Chaco residents dispersed southwestward to join
-their cousins in the Little Colorado River area. Then the Mesa
-Verdians moved to the northern Rio Grande Valley of New
-Mexico. Finally, the Kayenta people, the last holdouts, gave up
-and joined the population in what is now the Hopi country.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_25">25</div>
-<p>Between A.D. 1000 and 1050
-the culture of the Anasazi reached
-its height and became stable for
-a few centuries, until about A.D.
-1275-1300. Their homes were now
-substantial buildings of stone
-masonry, containing numerous adjoining
-rooms. Their kivas followed
-standard lines and were often
-incorporated in the house structures,
-though they were sometimes
-built as separate, semisubterranean
-chambers. No other abrupt
-changes or new forms distinguish
-this late period, which was essentially
-a continuation and fulfillment
-of earlier times. The large pueblos,
-most of which were begun about
-A.D. 1000, are the most outstanding
-development of this period.</p>
-<p>In Canyon de Chelly, construction
-was started on White House
-and Antelope House during these
-years. Other important population
-centers were developing simultaneously
-at Mesa Verde (Mesa
-Verde National Park, Colo.), where
-the largest concentration of surviving
-cliff dwellings is located,
-and at Chaco Canyon (Chaco
-Canyon National Monument,
-N. Mex.), where spacious apartment
-houses, one with more than
-<span class="pb" id="Page_26">26</span>
-800 rooms, were constructed on
-the floor of the canyon. Other
-villages were built in the Kayenta-Marsh
-Pass area (near Navajo
-National Monument, Ariz.).</p>
-<p>As permanent homes gave them
-social stability and well-developed
-agriculture ensured adequate food,
-the Anasazi had leisure and sufficient
-security for greater activity
-in their arts, crafts, and ceremonials.
-As a consequence, trade with
-other peoples seems to have
-grown and flourished because it
-brought in the specialized and
-exotic materials needed for rituals
-and pleasure. Parrots were
-traded from Mexico for their plumage,
-and ornamental shells from
-the Gulf of California and the West
-Coast found their way to Anasazi
-settlements. Turquoise, jet, and
-salt also became important trade
-items.</p>
-<p>The mode of dress changed
-little. Feather-string blankets were
-still commonly worn in winter.
-Cotton became almost the only
-fiber used for making cloth.
-Sandals, which were woven from
-whole yucca leaves, were crude,
-compared to those of earlier
-periods. But painted pottery
-reached its highest development
-in both variety and quality.</p>
-<p>These great pueblo centers
-flourished for about two centuries.
-But this was a time of increasing
-dryness in the Southwest, and the
-end for these settlements came
-during a severe drought late in the
-13th century. Tree-ring data
-indicate that there was not
-enough moisture to produce
-crops during most of the years
-between 1276 and 1299. The
-drought brought crop failures, and
-the ensuing erosion destroyed the
-fields. Hunger, decline, and migration
-followed. Family after family
-and group after group left their
-homes in the cliffs and canyons.
-Taking what few possessions they
-could carry on their backs, they
-drifted away in search of land with
-a dependable water supply suitable
-for farming.</p>
-<p>The villages in Canyon de
-Chelly apparently lasted longer
-than most and may even have provided
-a temporary haven for
-refugees from other regions to the
-north. The four-story tower house
-at Mummy Cave might have been
-built for such refugees by skilled
-masons from the Mesa Verde area.</p>
-<p>By 1300, however, all the great
-cliff dwellings were abandoned,
-and the people of the Canyon de
-Chelly area had moved on to new
-lands. Most of them probably
-joined the tribes that were gathering
-around Black Mesa to the
-west, near the location of the modern
-Hopi pueblos. Others may have
-turned south, settling finally near
-the middle of the present boundary
-between Arizona and New Mexico.
-Other Anasazi made their way to
-the upper Rio Grande Valley
-in north-central New Mexico. In
-these localities the Pueblo farmers
-renewed their way of life, and it
-was there that Spanish explorers
-found them on their first trip
-through the region in 1540-42.</p>
-<p>At White House and a few other
-ruins there is evidence of structural
-<span class="pb" id="Page_27">27</span>
-additions made long after the
-villages were abandoned. These
-and other indications of occupation
-well after 1300 probably
-represent the work of Hopi Indians
-who used the canyons seasonally
-for agriculture, taking the harvest
-back to their villages about 70
-miles to the west. Peach trees,
-which the Spanish introduced to
-the Hopi in the 17th century, were
-evidently brought to Canyon de
-Chelly in either that century or the
-next, and the small orchards still
-scattered through the canyons
-were started. The use of the canyons
-by the Hopi probably dropped
-off rapidly after the Navajos appeared
-in the area in the 18th
-century.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig25">
-<img src="images/p44.jpg" alt="" width="690" height="500" />
-<p class="pcap">This pictograph of a soldier on horseback is taken from the Navajo
-rock painting in Canyon del Muerto near Standing Cow Ruin.</p>
-</div>
-<h3 id="c10">THE NAVAJOS</h3>
-<p>The present Indian occupants of
-Canyon de Chelly are Navajos.
-They are not related to the Anasazi
-who built the masonry villages
-now in ruins.</p>
-<p>No one is certain just when the
-Navajos came to this region nor
-do we know exactly where they
-came from. The best available
-evidence now suggests that these
-people and their close relatives,
-the Apaches, both of whom
-speak an Athapascan language,
-came south along the eastern
-edge of the Rocky Mountains
-as a single group. They may
-have reached the Southwest
-between the 13th and the 16th
-centuries. The earliest mention of
-people who were probably Navajos
-is in the O&ntilde;ate documents of
-1598. This account places them in
-north-central New Mexico, an area
-they still call their homeland but
-no longer occupy.</p>
-<p>The name &ldquo;Navajo&rdquo; has never
-been adequately translated. The
-first interpretation of the word
-came from Father Alonso de
-Benavides, a Spanish priest who
-started missionary work among
-the Navajos. In his &ldquo;Memorial of
-New Mexico,&rdquo; which was presented
-to the court of Spain in
-1630, he stated:</p>
-<p><i>But these Apache de Nabahu
-[Navajo] are very great farmers for
-this is what Navajo signifies ...
-great planted fields....</i></p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_28">28</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig26">
-<img src="images/p45.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="546" />
-<p class="pcap">The pastoral scene shows two contemporary
-Navajo structures. To the left is a modern hogan, and to the right, a ramada.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_30">30</div>
-<p>By 1750, the Navajos had abandoned
-their homes west of the
-Chama River Valley because of
-pressure from the Utes to the
-north. Generally they moved westward,
-but a few split off to the
-south. We do not know when they
-first entered Canyon de Chelly,
-but there is evidence at the site of
-Tse-ta&rsquo;a to suggest that it was
-after 1700.</p>
-<p>Hunters, gatherers, and farmers,
-the Navajos changed their way
-of life sharply when they acquired
-horses and sheep from the Spanish
-after the Pueblo Rebellion of 1680.
-Horses made the Navajos highly
-mobile and increased their ability
-to raid the alluring towns along
-the Rio Grande and then vanish
-into mountain and canyon hideouts.
-Sheep gradually changed the
-basis of their economy, converting
-them from hunters and raiders
-to the pastoral herders they are
-today.</p>
-<p>After the Spanish reconquered
-New Mexico in 1692, many Pueblo
-families from the Rio Grande
-sought sanctuary with the Navajos.
-Some of these refugees were absorbed
-into the tribe, and they
-brought with them not only weaving,
-but sheep raising, pottery and
-basketry techniques, architectural
-and agricultural ideas, the clan
-system, and much religious lore.</p>
-<p>Navajo-Spanish relations were
-generally quiet after the Spanish
-returned because the tribe was
-preoccupied with fighting the Utes
-to the north and was interested
-in enlisting Spanish support or, at
-least, forbearance. This comparatively
-peaceful interlude came
-to an end in the 1770&rsquo;s because
-of land disputes, and friction continued
-from that time until the
-1860&rsquo;s.</p>
-<p>In 1805, during this period of
-strife, a Spanish punitive expedition
-entered Canyon de Chelly,
-bent on taking slaves, or servants
-as the whites called them.</p>
-<p>According to the Navajo
-account of the episode, all the
-Navajo men had gone out on an
-expedition, leaving the old men,
-and women, and children hidden
-in a deep ledge high up the
-canyon wall. Their position was
-strengthened by a wall of loose
-stones placed along the rim of the
-ledge. As the Spanish troops,
-commanded by Lt. Antonio
-Narbona, passed below, an old
-woman who had been a Spanish
-slave could not resist scoffing at
-them and thus exposed the hiding
-place.</p>
-<p>In a letter on January 25, 1805,
-to the Governor of New Mexico,
-Narbona described the action
-which followed:</p>
-<p><i>On the 17th of the current month
-I managed to attack in Ca&ntilde;on
-de Chelli a great number of
-enemy Indians and though they
-entrenched themselves in an
-almost inaccessible spot, and
-fortified beforehand, we succeeded
-after having battled all
-day long with the greatest ardor
-and effort, in taking [it] the morning
-after and that our arms had
-the result of ninety dead warriors,
-twenty-five women and children,
-and as prisoners three warriors,
-eight women and twenty-two
-boys and girls....</i></p>
-<p>Narbona reported his losses as
-1 dead and 64 wounded. Massacre
-Cave in Canyon del Muerto was
-named for this event.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_31">31</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig27">
-<img src="images/p46.jpg" alt="" width="725" height="600" />
-<p class="pcap">Massacre Cave sits high up on the west wall of
-Canyon del Muerto, a short way upstream from Mummy Cave.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_32">32</div>
-<p>The Navajos had been held in
-partial check by Spanish bribes
-and punitive expeditions, but after
-Mexico won its independence
-from Spain in 1821, the Navajos
-returned to raiding in behalf of
-all those enslaved by the Spanish.
-In 1823, 1833, 1836, and 1838 the
-Mexicans mounted large expeditions
-against the Navajos, sometimes
-sending as many as 1,500
-men after them. It was during this
-period that Canyon de Chelly was
-most often referred to as the
-stronghold of the Navajos. Although
-Mexican reprisals often
-forced the Indians to take temporary
-refuge north of the San
-Juan River, they were too sporadic
-to effectively quell the raiders, who
-always came back with new attacks.
-Conditions were so bad that
-the Navajos boasted they let the
-Mexicans live on only because
-they made good shepherds for the
-tribe. The taunt hardly exaggerated
-their power at the time.</p>
-<p>Navajo depredations had very
-nearly decimated the frontier settlements
-in the central Rio Grande
-Valley of New Mexico when the
-United States went to war with
-Mexico in 1846. Col. Stephen
-Watts Kearny had the task of seizing
-the northern Mexican provinces,
-an area that is now part of
-the American Southwest. In late
-June 1846 he left Fort Leavenworth,
-Kansas. Marching over the Santa
-Fe Trail without opposition,
-Kearny and his American Dragoons
-arrived in Santa Fe on August 18,
-1846, and proclaimed New Mexico
-a part of the United States.</p>
-<p>When Kearny and the Army of
-the West marched off to Mexico,
-Col. Alexander W. Doniphan was
-left behind with orders to invade
-the Navajo country, release captives,
-reclaim stolen property, and
-either to awe or beat the Indians
-into submission. In August 1846
-he led the first United States expedition
-against the Navajos. Maj.
-William Gilpin, with 200 men, entered
-the Navajo country on the
-north and swung south to meet
-Doniphan and several Navajo
-chiefs at Bear Springs near the
-town of Grants, New Mexico,
-later the site of Fort Wingate. The
-treaty signed there turned out
-to be little more than a scrap of
-paper. Five more unsuccessful
-military expeditions were sent
-against the Navajos between 1846
-and 1849 in vain attempts to end
-the Indian raids.</p>
-<p>In trying to contain the Navajos,
-the U.S. Government made the
-same mistake that the Mexican
-and Spanish Governments did
-before them. They all assumed
-that a single chief led the several
-Navajo bands. Actually, each
-local Navajo group had its own
-leader, and time and again treaties
-of &ldquo;lasting peace with the Navajos&rdquo;
-were signed by these local
-chiefs, who spoke only for their
-own small bands and had no
-influence with others.</p>
-<p>The U.S. Army expedition of
-1849 clearly illustrated this problem.
-Lt. Col. John W. Washington,
-military commander of New
-Mexico, led an expedition to
-Canyon de Chelly, then considered
-<span class="pb" id="Page_33">33</span>
-to be the Navajo heartland.
-Washington met local Navajo
-chiefs on the crest of a small hill
-between the present Thunderbird
-Guest Ranch and the mouth of the
-canyon. Here on Treaty Hill a
-treaty of &ldquo;lasting peace&rdquo; was
-signed with the Indians. Washington
-had no sooner returned to
-Albuquerque, however, than he
-learned that another Navajo band
-had raided a small village near
-Santa Fe.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig28">
-<img src="images/p47.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="671" />
-<p class="pcap">Col. E. R. S. Canby led the last campaign against the Navajos before the Civil War.</p>
-</div>
-<p>Regardless of treaties and punitive
-expeditions, Navajo depredations
-continued. Late in 1851, Col.
-E. V. Sumner marched into the
-Navajo country in still another
-effort to settle the problem. After a
-single encounter with the Navajo
-in Canyon de Chelly, Sumner
-returned to a spot southwest of
-the Chuska Mountains where he
-established Fort Defiance in the
-autumn of 1851. Fighting broke out
-again in 1858, when a Negro
-slave of the post commander at
-Fort Defiance was killed by a
-Navajo arrow. The Army retaliated
-with an attack on a party of peaceful
-Navajos, and the Indians retreated
-northward.</p>
-<p>Up to this time, U.S. Army
-commanders had controlled Indian
-policies; the authority of the civil
-agents appointed by the Indian
-Department was negligible. But
-now the civilian agents brought
-political pressure to bear upon the
-unsuccessful Army. To soothe
-the politicians, the Army drew up
-still another treaty with the
-Navajos on December 25, 1858.
-This treaty was the second attempt
-to outline the boundaries of a
-proposed Navajo reservation.
-Like an earlier proposal, the
-Meriweather Treaty of 1855, it
-was never ratified.</p>
-<p>The year 1859 was relatively
-peaceful, with few raids on either
-side. But the next year opened
-with a series of Navajo raids that
-culminated in a concentrated
-attack on Fort Defiance. Some of
-the old Navajos who participated
-later recalled that it was a carefully
-planned assault at dawn, with
-as many as 2,000 warriors taking
-part. After attacking for two hours,
-<span class="pb" id="Page_34">34</span>
-the Indians were forced to
-withdraw.</p>
-<p>In the winter of 1860-61, Col.
-E. R. S. Canby led the last military
-expedition against the Navajos
-before the Civil War, but his
-efforts failed to bring peace.
-Zarcillos Largos, a great Navajo
-leader who had worked for
-more peaceful relations with
-whites, was killed in an ambush
-during the campaign. The Indians
-soon resorted to their old tactic
-of dispersing, and the campaign
-ended with another treaty. When
-troops were withdrawn from Fort
-Defiance in March 1861 for
-Civil War duty, the last restraint
-was removed from both sides,
-and raiding began once more. For
-the Spanish-Americans, it was
-the high point of their warfare
-against the Navajos.</p>
-<p>The job of subjugating the recalcitrant
-Navajos now fell
-to Brig. Gen. James H. Carleton,
-commander of the Department
-of New Mexico and a seasoned
-Indian fighter with 25 years of
-active service. His earlier experience
-in Indian affairs had convinced
-Carleton that establishing
-reservations where the Indians
-could be educated would be the
-only way to get them to settle
-down. Carleton said:</p>
-<p><i>Soon they will acquire new
-habits, new ideas, new modes of
-life; the old Indians will die off,
-and carry with them the latent
-longings for murdering and robbing;
-the young ones will take
-their place without these longings;
-and thus, little by little, they will
-become a contented people....</i></p>
-<div class="img" id="fig29">
-<img src="images/p48.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="750" />
-<p class="pcap">Brig. Gen. James H. Carleton defeated the
-Navajos and built Fort Sumner at Bosque
-Redondo, the Navajo&rsquo;s place of exile.</p>
-</div>
-<p>In 1863, Carleton drew up plans
-for a 40-square-mile reservation at
-Fort Sumner on the Pecos River in
-central New Mexico. He called the
-new reservation Bosque Redondo,
-which is Spanish for circular
-thicket.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_35">35</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig30">
-<img src="images/p48a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="869" />
-<p class="pcap">The valiant Manuelito fought against the
-whites, but without permanent success. In
-1863 he was one of a number of prominent Navajo leaders.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_36">36</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig31">
-<img src="images/p49.jpg" alt="" width="642" height="700" />
-<p class="pcap">Capt. Albert Pfeiffer led his men down Canyon
-del Muerto between these cliffs, destroying hogans and crops.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_37">37</div>
-<p>When the reservation was ready,
-Carleton ordered Col. Christopher
-(Kit) Carson to take the field
-against the Navajos in June 1863.
-Carson&rsquo;s force consisted of four
-companies of New Mexican Volunteers,
-two mounted and two unmounted,
-and 200 Ute Indians, who
-were guides and scouts, altogether
-a force of about 1,000 men. Their
-first operation was to reoccupy
-and repair the abandoned Fort
-Defiance, which they renamed
-Fort Canby in honor of General
-Canby.</p>
-<p>The Navajos were led by Barboncito
-of Canyon de Chelly, a
-spokesman for the bands living
-west of the Chuska Mountains,
-and Manuelito, a leader of those
-who dwelt east of the mountains.
-Many subchiefs, as usual, led
-individual bands.</p>
-<p>Carson had orders from General
-Carleton to destroy all cornfields
-and livestock. He sent word to the
-Navajos that they should surrender
-at Fort Canby, and then moved
-into the field to persuade them.
-The first skirmish took place in
-August near the fort. Under constant
-pressure from the military
-through the winter of 1863, their
-herds being killed and crops
-burned, the Navajos were soon
-destitute and began to surrender
-in small numbers.</p>
-<p>The crowning blow to Navajo
-pride, however, was the Army&rsquo;s
-ostentatious penetration of Canyon
-de Chelly, their most secure
-refuge. A detachment of men
-under Capt. Albert Pfeiffer carried
-the &ldquo;Navaho Fortress&rdquo; in January
-1864. Entering through Canyon del
-Muerto, Pfeiffer guarded the junction
-while Capt. A. B. Carey led a
-detail through the main gorge of
-de Chelly, marching west to east.
-Captain Pfeiffer described his
-progress through del Muerto:</p>
-<p><i>My travel through the ca&ntilde;on, for
-the first 12 miles, was accomplished
-on the ice of the bed of
-the stream which courses through
-it.... Lt. C. M. Hubbell, who was
-in charge of the rear, had a great
-deal of trouble in proceeding with
-the pack trains, as the mules frequently
-broke through the ice and
-tumbled down with their loads. All
-the Indian prisoners taken thus
-<span class="pb" id="Page_38">38</span>
-far were half starved and naked.
-The ca&ntilde;on has no road except the
-bottom of the creek. We traveled
-mostly on the ice, our animals
-breaking through every few
-minutes, and one mule split completely
-open under the exhausting
-fatigue of the march. On the 12th
-instant traveled 8 miles; had several
-skirmishes with the enemy.
-Indians on both sides of the ca&ntilde;on
-whooping, yelling and cursing,
-firing shots and throwing rocks
-down upon my command. Killed
-two buck Indians in the encounter
-and one squaw, who obstinately
-persisted in hurling rocks and
-pieces of wood at the soldiers. Six
-prisoners were captured on this
-occasion. Lieutenant Hubbell followed
-up some Indians in a tributary
-ca&ntilde;on, but could not overtake
-them on account of the steepness
-of the hillsides, where nothing save
-an Indian or mountain goat could
-make their way....</i></p>
-<p>This raid, which netted only
-about 100 prisoners, convinced the
-Navajos that even though Carson
-was not out to destroy them,
-he would go anywhere to ferret
-them out. They had no choice
-but to surrender at Fort Canby.
-Shortly after the Canyon de
-Chelly raid some 500 Navajos, with
-their flocks, straggled into the
-fort. By February 15, 1864, 1,500
-Navajos were being fed and
-clothed there, and by the first of
-March about 2,400.</p>
-<p>The much storied &ldquo;Long Walk&rdquo;
-and exile of the Navajos began on
-March 6, 1864, when these 2,400
-people with 30 wagons, 400
-horses, and 3,000 sheep and goats
-left Fort Canby for Bosque
-Redondo, 300 miles away in New
-Mexico Territory. Only the aged,
-the children, and the crippled rode
-in wagons&mdash;all others walked the
-entire distance. One old Navajo
-recalled the exodus in later years,
-saying:</p>
-<p><i>It was a great sight, we stretched from Fort Defiance to the Window
-Rock &lsquo;haystacks&rsquo; ... a distance of about 7 miles.</i></p>
-<p>On March 14-15, a second group
-of about 3,000 Navajos began the
-foot journey. The last large escort
-of Navajos to Fort Sumner was on
-April 24, when 1,200 persons
-started their &ldquo;Long Walk.&rdquo;</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_39">39</div>
-<div class="img" id="map1">
-<img src="images/map_lr.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="879" />
-<p class="pcap">This old army map shows the military posts of the 1860&rsquo;s. The
-red line traces the &ldquo;Long Walk&rdquo; of the defeated Navajos to
-Fort Sumner at Bosque Redondo.</p><p class="center"><a class="ab1" href="images/map_hr.jpg">High-resolution Map</a></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_40">40</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig32">
-<img src="images/p51.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="873" />
-<p class="pcap">Scenes of the Navajos
-in their place of exile
-at Fort Sumner on the
-Pecos River. The top
-view shows them lined
-up to receive their issue
-of food and clothing.
-<span class="attr ss smaller">National Archives</span><span class="attr ss smaller">Museum of New Mexico</span><span class="attr ss smaller">National Archives</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_41">41</div>
-<p>Not all the Navajos surrendered.
-Many tribesmen remained free and
-continued to raid settlements.
-On April 9, 1864, the very day that
-the Governor of New Mexico had
-set aside to celebrate the end of
-the Navajo war, a band of Navajos
-stole 40 head of cattle from
-Laguna Pueblo, 140 miles southwest
-of Canyon de Chelly. Those
-who surrendered endured extreme
-hardship at Fort Sumner from
-disease, crop failure, famine, and
-their sense of exile from their
-homeland. After 4 years, the several
-thousand reservation Navajos
-were broken in body and spirit,
-while their still-free tribesmen continued
-their troublesome guerrilla
-activities. Carleton&rsquo;s experiment
-was judged a complete failure.</p>
-<p>The Government then decided
-that the Navajos should return to
-a part of their old homeland. A
-new treaty signed on June 1, 1868,
-stated that the tribe and the United
-States were at peace, and in it the
-Navajos pledged to stop their
-raiding. In return, the Government
-promised the tribe school facilities
-and a reservation that included
-Canyon de Chelly in its total area
-of 3,500,000 acres. The Navajos
-were to stay within this reservation.</p>
-<p>Twenty-nine Navajo chiefs and
-council members signed the treaty,
-and the Navajos began leaving
-Fort Sumner almost immediately,
-slipping away family by family.
-Those without horses or who had
-old or sick persons in their family
-awaited Government transportation.
-On June 15, a wagon train
-with a military escort carried the
-last Navajos from Fort Sumner to
-Fort Wingate. There the tribe
-waited while final arrangements
-were worked out.</p>
-<p>By November the new reservation
-boundaries had been surveyed
-and shown to the tribe&rsquo;s
-head men, and a headquarters for
-the Indian agent had been prepared
-at Fort Defiance. At long last
-the Navajos were allowed to go
-home. They were now united into
-a single tribe with leaders, appointed
-by the Indian agents, to
-represent them in their dealings
-with the whites. But their troubles
-were not over.</p>
-<p>Only a fraction of the Navajos&rsquo;
-sheep had survived Carson&rsquo;s
-slaughter and the years of famine
-at Fort Sumner. The treaty had
-promised sheep and goats to replenish
-the herds, but more than a
-year passed before any were received.
-Meantime, hunger pursued
-the Navajos, and they had to exist
-<span class="pb" id="Page_42">42</span>
-on army issue rations of beef,
-coffee, and flour.</p>
-<p>The treaty also promised that
-during the first 10 years&mdash;called
-the Treaty Years&mdash;each family
-head who took up farming would
-receive $25 worth of agricultural
-tools and supplies every 2 years
-to help him in his new pursuit. It
-was 14 years before this promise
-was fulfilled, and the tribe was
-badly hampered in their efforts to
-fill out their slender larder through
-agriculture.</p>
-<p>During these years the Navajos
-eked out a living through their
-traditional crafts of weaving and
-silver working. Blankets and wool
-were beginning to find a market in
-the expanding settlements of the
-Rio Grande Valley, at army posts,
-and in the Mormon settlements of
-Utah. In 1869, the first trading post
-was established on the reservation,
-and it provided the tribe with
-a source of supplies and an outlet
-for their wares. As Navajo
-blankets, wool, and silverwork became
-more important, other
-traders entered the Navajo country.</p>
-<p>Still there was little substantial
-change in either the Navajo&rsquo;s
-mode of life or their economy by
-the end of the Treaty Years in
-1878. True, the tribe and their
-flocks had increased in numbers
-especially after 1872, when the
-U.S. Government distributed
-10,000 sheep among them. The
-coming of the railroad in 1881-82,
-however, accelerated change and
-growth in the Navajos more than
-any other event. New techniques
-for making a living, learned from
-working with construction crews,
-and new possessions brought by
-the railroad, started the people
-toward the modern world.</p>
-<p>One vexing problem that has
-confronted the Navajos since their
-days at Fort Sumner is the lack of
-adequate grazing land to support
-an expanding population. The
-reservation boundaries have been
-enlarged many times over the
-years, but now there is no space
-for further expansion. Today the
-tribe numbers over 120,000 members,
-and tribal lands cannot support
-that large a population nor
-the uncontrolled grazing that
-it causes.</p>
-<p>The old way of life is gradually
-being replaced. In 1924, Congress
-granted citizenship rights to all
-Indians in recognition of their
-service during World War I when
-their men enlisted by the hundreds,
-even though exempt from
-the draft. After 1923 Navajo tribal
-business became less of a haphazard
-affair. A tribal council,
-<span class="pb" id="Page_43">43</span>
-made up of elected delegates, began
-to handle contacts with the
-world beyond the reservation.
-Little or no work was done to
-remedy undesirable conditions on
-the reservation until the public
-works program of the 1930&rsquo;s, when
-a good many schools and hospitals
-were built. During World
-War II, hundreds of young Navajo
-men enlisted in the armed forces
-and other thousands went into war
-work. These involvements in
-American society demonstrated
-that an education was essential if
-Indians were to compete successfully
-in the outer world, and so the
-tribal council passed a compulsory
-schooling law in 1947. Many
-schools and hospitals were built
-in the 1950&rsquo;s and 1960&rsquo;s.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig33">
-<img src="images/p52.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="827" />
-<p class="pcap">A Navajo weaver, 1873. Their looms have
-changed little in the years since then.</p>
-</div>
-<p>Little by little the Navajos became
-acquainted with the world
-outside the reservation and
-learned its ways and advantages.
-Today their prospects for a better
-life are brighter. Oil, gas, coal,
-timber, and uranium deposits on
-their lands are being developed
-for the benefit of all the Navajos.
-Children are more eager to attend
-school, and many Navajos are now
-leaving the reservation to put their
-education to work at jobs in the
-larger community. The Navajo
-people are beginning to find a
-place within the Nation.</p>
-<p>Despite these changes and prospects,
-many Navajo families are
-still seminomadic camp dwellers,
-following old traditions. Each
-family&rsquo;s grazing land covers about
-10 to 15 square miles. Within this
-area they have two or more
-hogans and corrals, built near
-suitable grass, water, and wood.</p>
-<p>In winter the family moves to
-the foothills or mesa tops to be
-near a plentiful wood supply, for
-winters in the Navajo country are
-severe. The winter hogans, or
-houses, are constructed with considerable
-care by the men. Brush
-shelters are used for cooking and
-camping in summer.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_44">44</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig34">
-<img src="images/p53.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="543" />
-<p class="pcap">Navajo headmen inside a summer brush shelter, 1898.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_46">46</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig35">
-<img src="images/p54.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="754" />
-<p class="pcap">A Navajo cribbed (log-cabin) style hogan
-in the high pine forest in 1908.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_47">47</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig36">
-<img src="images/p54a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="480" />
-<p class="pcap">A modern hogan built of stone and mud-plaster with a
-pane glass window, at Standing Cow Ruin.</p>
-</div>
-<p>Several types of hogans can be
-seen on the reservation today.
-Some recent ones attempt to copy
-houses in off-reservation towns,
-but most follow traditional styles.
-The earliest type of hogan known
-is the so-called &ldquo;forked-stick&rdquo;
-hogan. This is a tipi-shaped structure
-made of three poles with
-forked ends that interlock at the
-top. Spaces between this framework
-are filled with smaller
-poles; the whole is plastered with
-mud. Another style of hogan is
-made of cribbed logs and usually
-has six or eight sides, a design
-made necessary by the shortness
-of the logs available. Circular
-hogans of stone, adapted from
-Pueblo Indian masonry construction,
-are sometimes built. The
-roofs on both types of hogans
-are constructed of cribbed logs
-and appear domed rather than
-flat. A feature common to every
-hogan is its door facing east,
-toward the sunrise.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig37">
-<img src="images/p54b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="471" />
-<p class="pcap">A Navajo forked-pole
-hogan, traditionally the
-earliest form used by
-the tribe. Shaped like a
-tipi, it is built of heavy
-logs covered with soil.
-<span class="attr ss smaller">National Archives</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>Furnishings of hogans were
-simple and limited, but today
-tables, chairs, cabinets, and beds
-are commonly used. Food was
-once cooked in a firepit in the
-center of the floor, below a hole
-in the roof which allowed the
-smoke to escape, but today it is
-<span class="pb" id="Page_48">48</span>
-prepared on stoves which increasingly
-are butane gas or
-electric models. In good weather,
-cooking is done outside. Iron
-and aluminum pots and pans have
-replaced homemade pottery and
-baskets as kitchen utensils.</p>
-<p>Water is scarce over much of
-the reservation and must be
-hauled in wagons or pickup trucks
-from as far away as 10 miles.
-Water is used sparingly.</p>
-<p>The Navajos are fond of goat
-meat and mutton, which have
-almost entirely replaced the wild
-game of the old diet. Canned
-goods from the traders&rsquo; shelves
-have supplanted the wild
-plants that used to be gathered
-and, in some homes, have eliminated
-garden plots of corn and
-squash. At Fort Sumner the
-Navajos learned to roast and brew
-coffee and to use wheat flour.
-Now coffee and wheat bread are
-important items in their diet.</p>
-<p>In aboriginal times Navajo
-clothing was meager. Women wore
-an apron and men a breechclout
-of buckskin. Footwear probably
-consisted of yucca fiber sandals,
-although moccasins of animal
-skins were also common. During
-winter, blankets of animal skins or
-yucca were added for warmth.</p>
-<p>After the Spaniards arrived in
-the Rio Grande Valley, the Navajos
-copied Spanish costumes. This
-style, which prevailed until after
-the return from Bosque Redondo
-in 1868, consisted of tightly
-buttoned knee-length breeches of
-buckskin, worn with knitted blue
-stockings copied from those of
-Pueblo men. A V-neck shirt was
-made from a small blanket or
-piece of flannel and was worn
-outside the trousers. The shirt was
-held by a leather belt heavily
-ornamented with silver. Moccasins
-and leggings of dyed buckskin
-completed the men&rsquo;s dress. When
-Navajo women began loom weaving,
-they copied the Pueblo
-woman&rsquo;s woven cotton dress in
-wool and wore it with a woven
-belt. Dyed buckskin moccasins
-with wrap-around leggings were
-their footwear.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig38">
-<img src="images/p55.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="401" />
-<p class="pcap">Navajo clothing of the
-19th century, a pair of
-moccasins and a shirt.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p55a.jpg" alt="Shirt." width="500" height="476" />
-</div>
-<p>After Bosque Redondo, cotton
-clothing in Anglo-American and
-Mexican styles became popular.
-<span class="pb" id="Page_49">49</span>
-Today Navajo men wear typical
-western ranch and farm clothing:
-blue jeans, shirts, and broad-brimmed
-felt or straw hats. The
-women still prefer the bright calico
-skirts and velveteen blouses
-which they copied from the styles
-worn by American women in the
-mid-19th century. The skirt is ankle
-length and voluminous, containing
-from 12 to 15 yards of material.
-Moccasins of dyed buckskin are
-still popular with the women at
-home, but modish shoes and
-stockings have been adopted for
-town wear. In winter, both men
-and women use commercially
-made blankets draped over their
-shoulders for protection against
-the cold.</p>
-<p>Today many Navajo men take
-off-reservation jobs with railroads,
-in lumber camps, or as migratory
-workers following crop harvests.
-Sheep still play a major role in the
-family economy, and annual income
-is supplemented by the
-sale of rugs and, sometimes,
-silverwork and jewelry.</p>
-<p>The Navajos have worn silver
-ornaments for many years. A 1795
-Spanish reference mentions that
-the Navajo captains were rarely
-seen without their silver ornaments,
-but there is no evidence
-that they made them at that time.
-They got most of their silver pieces
-by trading, and picked up others
-on raids against Ute and Commanche
-Indians, who in turn had
-obtained them from eastern
-Indians who were in contact with
-Anglo-American or French traders.
-A great many silver ornaments
-probably came from the Spaniards.</p>
-<p>Present evidence indicates that
-the Navajos learned silversmithing
-sometime after 1850. Old silversmiths
-in the tribe have claimed
-that Mexicans taught them the
-craft during the Bosque Redondo
-captivity, citing their first smith,
-Atsidi Sani or &ldquo;Old Smith,&rdquo; who
-was taught by a Mexican blacksmith.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_50">50</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig39">
-<img src="images/p56.jpg" alt="" width="653" height="700" />
-<p class="pcap">An early Navajo silversmith named Slim-Maker-of-Silver.
-<span class="attr ss smaller">Museum of New Mexico</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_51">51</div>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p56a.jpg" alt="Ring." width="128" height="108" />
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig40">
-<img src="images/p56b.jpg" alt="" width="336" height="251" />
-<p class="pcap">Navajo silver bracelets and ring from the period 1880-1900.
-<span class="attr ss smaller">Smithsonian Institution</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig41">
-<img src="images/p56c.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="233" />
-<p class="pcap">Recent Navajo bracelets.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_52">52</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig42">
-<img src="images/p57.jpg" alt="" width="503" height="799" />
-<p class="pcap">A Navajo vegetal-dye rug, hand woven from
-hand-spun, home-grown wool. It is representative of the Chinle style.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_53">53</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig43">
-<img src="images/p57a.jpg" alt="" width="649" height="700" />
-<p class="pcap">A Navajo wife weaving a rug in her front
-yard at their home near Standing Cow Ruin.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_54">54</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig44">
-<img src="images/p58.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="662" />
-<p class="pcap">A Navajo girl and her dogs guard the family
-sheep near Big Cave.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_55">55</div>
-<p>By 1881 they had completely
-mastered the art, and began to
-use turquoise in their jewelry.
-Commercialization of their silver-work
-began in 1899, when the Fred
-Harvey Company first placed large
-orders for pieces to sell to tourists.</p>
-<p>Perhaps more than anything
-else, the colorful rugs and silver
-and turquoise jewelry produced by
-these people have made the
-name &ldquo;Navajo&rdquo; a household word.
-The two crafts did not develop
-simultaneously, for weaving
-is almost two centuries older
-than silversmithing. The Navajo
-mastery of both skills is exceptional,
-however, and both lend
-themselves readily to Navajo
-designs.</p>
-<p>The loom used in Navajo
-weaving is a native American
-device, similar to that of the
-ancient Pueblo people. It has
-changed little over the centuries.
-Men usually construct the loom
-and women do the weaving.</p>
-<p>In spite of three centuries of
-work by Christian missionaries,
-the Navajos have clung to their
-native religion. Their religious
-leaders are medicine men, or
-healers, and their rites are intended
-primarily to secure and
-maintain good health.</p>
-<p>The ceremonies, called chants,
-sometimes last as long as 9
-days. They consist of songs,
-dances, the construction of sand
-paintings, and the administration
-of herbal medicines and sweat
-baths.</p>
-<p>The Navajos, a unique people in
-many ways, are far from being
-&ldquo;vanishing&rdquo; Americans. Vigorous
-and growing in numbers, they have
-only recently begun to understand
-their potential. While they are
-making rapid strides to join the
-world around them, they are
-keenly aware of their own heritage
-and what it can contribute to the
-larger culture of America.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_57">57</div>
-<h2 id="c11"><span class="small">Further Reading</span></h2>
-<p class="book">Kluckholm, Clyde, and Dorothea Leighton. <i>The Navaho.</i> Cambridge, Mass. 1946.</p>
-<p class="book">McGregor, John C. <i>Southwestern Archeology.</i> Second Ed. Urbana, Ill. 1965.</p>
-<p class="book">Morris, Ann A. <i>Digging in the Southwest.</i> N.Y. 1934.</p>
-<p class="book">Underhill, Ruth M. <i>The Navajos.</i> Norman, Okla. 1956.</p>
-<p class="book">Wormington, H. M. <i>Prehistoric Indians of the Southwest.</i> Third Ed. Denver, Colo. 1956.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_58">58</div>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p59.jpg" alt="DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR &middot; March 3, 1849" width="217" height="218" />
-</div>
-<p><i>As the Nation&rsquo;s principal conservation agency, the Department
-of the Interior has basic responsibilities for water, fish, wildlife,
-mineral, land, park, and recreational resources. Indian and
-Territorial affairs are other major concerns of America&rsquo;s &ldquo;Department
-of Natural Resources.&rdquo; The Department works to
-assure the wisest choice in managing all our resources so each
-will make its full contribution to a better United States&mdash;now
-and in the future.</i></p>
-<p><i>National Park Service</i></p>
-<p><i>U.S. DEPARTMENT of the INTERIOR</i></p>
-<p class="tbcenter"><span class="smaller"><span class="ss">&#9733; U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1973 O&mdash;503-170
-<br />For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office Washington, D.C. 20402. Price 80 cents, domestic postpaid; 60 cents, GPO Bookstore
-<br />Stock Number 2405-00508</span></span></p>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p60.jpg" alt="Book cover" width="1000" height="530" />
-</div>
-<h2>Transcriber&rsquo;s Notes</h2>
-<ul>
-<li>This etext based on a U.S. government publication is public domain in the United States.</li>
-<li>Corrected a few palpable typos.</li>
-<li>In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.</li>
-</ul>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
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