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Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b19bf02 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #55067 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/55067) diff --git a/old/55067-0.txt b/old/55067-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 68736f8..0000000 --- a/old/55067-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4665 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Yorkshire Dales and Fells, by Gordon Home - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Yorkshire Dales and Fells - -Author: Gordon Home - -Release Date: July 7, 2017 [EBook #55067] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YORKSHIRE DALES AND FELLS *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - - YORKSHIRE - - DALES AND FELLS - - - - - A COMPANION VOLUME - BY THE SAME AUTHOR - - YORKSHIRE - - COAST AND MOORLAND SCENES - - BY GORDON HOME - - CONTAINING 32 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS - IN COLOUR - - PRICE =7s.= =6d.= NET - -_The Pall Mall Gazette_ says: “We must express our real regret that it -is materially impossible to reproduce some specimens of the charming -illustrations, which are at least as great an attraction as the writing -of Mr. Home’s book. Of these there are thirty-two, among which it would -be invidious to select any for special commendation when all are -delightful. Let it suffice to say that they bring the water of envy into -the mouth of the Londoner who can only ‘babble o’ green fields,’ while, -beyond the range of his opportunities, the Yorkshire moors are clothing -themselves in all the glory of their vernal beauty. Perhaps Mr. Home’s -pen and pencil may tempt some of us to spend the summer holidays in the -county of the White Rose, where he has gathered so fragrant a posy.” - - _Published by_ - - A. & C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W. - - AGENTS IN AMERICA - - THE MACMILLAN COMPANY - - 64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK - -[Illustration: FOUNTAINS ABBEY - -IS one of the finest ruined monasteries in England, and its wonderfully -rich setting in the sylvan splendours of Studley Royal make it still -more noteworthy. The velvet turf, the rushing waters of the Skell, the -magnificent trees, and the solemnity of the ruins, combine in producing -an ineffaceable memory.] - - - - - YORKSHIRE - - DALES AND FELLS - - PAINTED & - DESCRIBED - - BY - - GORDON HOME - - [Illustration: colophon] - - PUBLISHED BY A. & C. - BLACK·LONDON·MCMVI - - - - -Preface - - -This book is a companion volume to that entitled ‘Yorkshire Coast and -Moorland Scenes,’ which was published in 1904. - -It describes a tract of country that is more full of noble and imposing -scenery than the north-eastern corner of the county, although it has -none of the advantages of a coast-line. Beyond this, the area covered by -the present volume is larger than that of the earlier one, and the -historic events connected with its great over-lords and their castles, -with the numerous monasteries and ancient towns, are so full of -thrilling interest that it has only been possible to sample here and -there the vast stores of romance that exist in some hundreds of volumes -of early and modern writings. - -GORDON HOME. - - -EPSOM, - - _April, 1906_. - - - - -Contents - - -CHAPTER I - PAGE - -THE DALE COUNTRY AS A WHOLE 1 - -CHAPTER II - -RICHMOND 13 - -CHAPTER III - -SWALEDALE 47 - -CHAPTER IV - -WENSLEYDALE 71 - -CHAPTER V - -RIPON AND FOUNTAINS ABBEY 115 - -CHAPTER VI - -KNARESBOROUGH AND HARROGATE 125 - -CHAPTER VII - -WHARFEDALE 139 - -CHAPTER VIII - -SKIPTON, MALHAM, AND GORDALE 149 - -CHAPTER IX - -SETTLE AND THE INGLETON FELLS 165 - -INDEX 173 - - - - -List of Illustrations - - -1. Fountains Abbey _Frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - -2. Richmond Castle from the River 20 - -3. Richmond from the West 30 - -4. Swaledale in the Early Autumn 48 - -5. Downholme Moor, above Swaledale 56 - -6. Muker on a Stormy Afternoon 64 - -7. Twilight in the Butter-tubs Pass 72 - -8. Hardraw Force 78 - -9. A Rugged View above Wensleydale 82 - -10. A Jacobean House at Askrigg 90 - -11. Aysgarth Force 98 - -12. Bolton Castle, Wensleydale 104 - -13. View up Wensleydale from Leyburn Shawl 110 - -14. Ripon Minster from the South 18 - -15. Knaresborough 126 - -16. Bolton Abbey, Wharfedale 142 - -17. Hubberholme Church 144 - -18. The Courtyard of Skipton Castle 150 - -19. Gordale Scar 160 - -20. Settle 166 - - - - -THE DALE COUNTRY AS A WHOLE - - - - -CHAPTER I - -DESCRIBES THE DALE COUNTRY AS A WHOLE - - -When in the early years of life one learns for the first time the name -of that range of mountains forming the backbone of England, the youthful -scholar looks forward to seeing in later years the prolonged series of -lofty hills known as the ‘Pennine Range.’ His imagination pictures -Pen-y-ghent and Ingleborough as great peaks, seldom free from a mantle -of clouds, for are they not called ‘mountains of the Pennine Range,’ and -do they not appear in almost as large type in the school geography as -Snowdon and Ben Nevis? But as the scholar grows older and more able to -travel, so does the Pennine Range recede from his vision, until it -becomes almost as remote as those crater-strewn mountains in the Moon -which have a name so similar. - -This elusiveness on the part of a natural feature so essentially static -as a mountain range is attributable to the total disregard of the name -of this particular chain of hills. In the same way as the term -‘Cumbrian Hills’ is exchanged for the popular ‘Lake District,’ so is a -large section of the Pennine Range paradoxically known as the ‘Yorkshire -Dales.’ - -It is because the hills are so big that the valleys are deep, and it is -owing to the great watersheds that these long and narrow dales are -beautified by some of the most copious and picturesque rivers in -England. In spite of this, however, when one climbs any of the fells -over 2,000 feet, and looks over the mountainous ridges on every side, -one sees, as a rule, no peak or isolated height of any description to -attract one’s attention. Instead of the rounded or angular projections -from the horizon that are usually associated with a mountainous -district, there are great expanses of brown tableland that form -themselves into long parallel lines in the distance, and give a sense of -wild desolation in some ways more striking than the peaks of Scotland or -Wales. The thick formations of millstone grit and limestone that rest -upon the shale have generally avoided crumpling or distortion, and thus -give the mountain views the appearance of having had all the upper -surfaces rolled flat when they were in a plastic condition. Denudation -and the action of ice in the glacial epochs have worn through the hard -upper stratum, and formed the long and narrow dales; and in Littondale, -Wharfedale, Wensleydale, and many other parts, one may plainly see the -perpendicular wall of rock sharply defining the upper edges of the -valleys. The softer rocks below generally take a gentle slope from the -base of the hard gritstone to the river-side pastures below. At the -edges of the dales, where waterfalls pour over the wall of limestone--as -at Hardraw Scar, near Hawes--the action of water is plainly -demonstrated, for one can see the rapidity with which the shale -crumbles, leaving the harder rocks overhanging above. - -Unlike the moors of the north-eastern parts of Yorkshire, the fells are -not prolific in heather. It is possible to pass through Wensleydale--or, -indeed, most of the dales--without seeing any heather at all. On the -broad plateaux between the dales there are stretches of moor partially -covered with ling; but in most instances the fells and moors are grown -over at their higher levels with bent and coarse grass, generally of a -browny-ochrish colour, broken here and there by an outcrop of limestone -that shows gray against the swarthy vegetation. - -In the upper portions of the dales--even in the narrow river-side -pastures--the fences are of stone, turned a very dark colour by -exposure, and everywhere on the slopes of the hills a wide network of -these enclosures can be seen traversing even the most precipitous -ascents. Where the dales widen out towards the fat plains of the Vale of -York, quickset hedges intermingle with the gaunt stone, and as one gets -further eastwards the green hedge becomes triumphant. The stiles that -are the fashion in the stone-fence districts make quite an interesting -study to strangers, for, wood being an expensive luxury, and stone being -extremely cheap, everything is formed of the more enduring material. -Instead of a trap-gate, one generally finds an excessively narrow -opening in the fences, only just giving space for the thickness of the -average knee, and thus preventing the passage of the smallest lamb. Some -stiles are constructed with a large flat stone projecting from each -side, one slightly in front and overlapping the other, so that one can -only pass through by making a very careful S-shaped movement. More -common are the projecting stones, making a flight of precarious steps on -each side of the wall. - -Except in their lowest and least mountainous parts, where they are -subject to the influences of the plains, the dales are entirely innocent -of red tiles and haystacks. The roofs of churches, cottages, barns and -mansions, are always of the local stone, that weathers to beautiful -shades of green and gray, and prevents the works of man from jarring -with the great sweeping hillsides. Then, instead of the familiar -gray-brown haystack, one sees in almost every meadow a neatly-built -stone house with an upper story. The lower part is generally used as a -shelter for cattle, while above is stored hay or straw. By this system a -huge amount of unnecessary carting is avoided, and where roads are few -and generally of exceeding steepness a saving of this nature is a -benefit easily understood. Any soldier who served in South Africa during -the latter part of the war would be struck with the advantages that -these ready-made block-houses would offer if it were ever necessary to -round up a mobile enemy who had taken refuge among the Yorkshire fells. -Barbed-wire entanglements, and a system of telephones to link them -together, would be all that was required to convert these stone barns -into block-houses of a thoroughly useful type, for they are already -loopholed. - -The villages of the dales, although having none of the bright colours -of a level country, are often exceedingly quaint, and rich in soft -shades of green and gray. In the autumn the mellowed tints of the stone -houses are contrasted with the fierce yellows and browny-reds of the -foliage, and the villages become full of bright colours. At all times, -except when the country is shrivelled by an icy northern wind, the -scenery of the dales has a thousand charms. By the edge of fine rivers -that pour downwards in terraced falls one finds hamlets with their -church towers, gray and sturdy, and the little patch of green shaded by -ash-trees, all made diminutive by the huge and gaunt hillsides that -dominate every view. Looking up the dales, there are often glimpses of -distant heights that in their blue silhouettes give a more mountainous -aspect to the scenery than one might expect. - -In some of the valleys, such as Swaledale, the nakedness of the -yellow-brown hills is clothed with a mantle of heavy woods--but enough -has been said by way of introduction to give some notion of the general -aspect of the dales, and in the succeeding chapters a closer scrutiny -can be made. - -The ways of approaching the Dale Country from the south are by means of -the Great Northern, Midland, or Great Central routes to York, where one -has all the North-Eastern service to choose from. Ribblesdale is -traversed by the Midland Main Line, so that those who wish to commence -an exploration of these parts of Yorkshire from Settle, Skipton, or -Hawes, must travel from St. Pancras Station. - - - - -RICHMOND - - - - -CHAPTER II - -RICHMOND - - -For the purposes of this book we may consider Richmond as the gateway of -the dale country. There are other gates and approaches, some of which -may have advocates who claim their superiority over Richmond as -starting-places for an exploration of this description, but for my part, -I can find no spot on any side of the mountainous region so entirely -satisfactory. If we were to commence at Bedale or Leyburn, there is no -exact point where the open country ceases and the dale begins; but here -at Richmond there is not the very smallest doubt, for on reaching the -foot of the mass of rock dominated by the castle and the town, Swaledale -commences in the form of a narrow ravine, and from that point westwards -the valley never ceases to be shut in by steep sides, which become -narrower and grander with every mile. - -The railway that keeps Richmond in touch with the world does its work in -a most inoffensive manner, and by running to the bottom of the hill on -which the town stands, and by there stopping short, we seem to have a -strong hint that we have been brought to the edge of a new element in -which railways have no rights whatever. This is as it should be, and we -can congratulate the North-Eastern Company for its discretion and its -sense of fitness. Even the station is built of solid stonework, with a -strong flavour of medievalism in its design, and its attractiveness is -enhanced by the complete absence of other modern buildings. We are thus -welcomed to the charms of Richmond at once. The rich sloping meadows by -the river, crowned with dense woodlands, surround us and form a -beautiful setting of green for the town, which has come down from the -fantastic days of the Norman Conquest without any drastic or unseemly -changes, and thus has still the compactness and the romantic outline of -feudal times. - -By some means Richmond avoided the manufactories that have entirely -altered the character of such places as Skipton and Durham, but if we -wish to see what might have happened or what may still befall this town, -it is only necessary for us to go a little way above the new bridge, -and there, beneath the castle heights, see one of the most conspicuously -and unnecessarily ugly gasworks that was ever dumped upon a fair scene. -I suppose a day will arrive when the Mayor and Corporation will lay -their heads together with the object of devising a plan for the removal -of these dismal buildings to some site where they will be less -offensive, but until that day they will continue to mar the charms of a -town whose situation is almost unequalled in this island. - -From whatever side you approach it, Richmond has always some fine -combination of towers overlooking a confusion of old red roofs and of -rocky heights crowned with ivy-mantled walls, all set in the most -sumptuous surroundings of silvery river and wooded hills, such as the -artists of the age of steel-engraving loved to depict. Every one of -these views has in it one dominating feature in the magnificent Norman -keep of the castle. It overlooks church towers and everything else with -precisely the same aloofness of manner it must have assumed as soon as -the builders of nearly eight hundred years ago had put the last stone in -place. Externally, at least, it is as complete to-day as it was then, -and as there is no ivy upon it, I cannot help thinking that the Bretons -who built it in that long-distant time would swell with pride were they -able to see how their ambitious work has come down the centuries -unharmed. - -We can go across the modern bridge, with its castellated parapets, and -climb up the steep ascent on the further side, passing on the way the -parish church, standing on the steep ground outside the circumscribed -limits of the wall that used to enclose the town in early times. Turning -towards the castle, we go breathlessly up the cobbled street that climbs -resolutely to the market-place in a foolishly direct fashion, which -might be understood if it were a Roman road. There is a sleepy quietness -about this way up from the station, which is quite a short distance, and -we look for much movement and human activity in the wide space we have -reached; but here, too, on this warm and sunny afternoon, the few folks -who are about seem to find ample time for conversation and loitering. At -the further end of the great square there are some vast tents erected -close to the big obelisk that forms the market-cross of the present day. -Quantities of straw are spread upon the cobbles, and the youth of -Richmond watches with intense interest the bulgings of the canvas walls -of the tents. With this they are obliged to be content for a time, but -just as we reach this end of the square two huge swaying elephants issue -forth to take their afternoon stroll in company with their son, whose -height is scarcely more than half that of his parents. The children have -not waited in vain, and they gaze awe-struck at the furrowed sides of -the slate-gray monsters as they are led, slowly padding their way, -across the square. We watch them as they pass under the shadow of Holy -Trinity Church, then out in the sunshine again they go lurching past the -old-fashioned houses until they turn down Frenchgate and disappear, with -the excited but respectful knot of children following close behind. - -On one side of us is the King’s Head, whose steep tiled roof and square -front has just that air of respectable importance that one expects to -find in an old-established English hotel. It looks across the cobbled -space to the curious block of buildings that seems to have been intended -for a church but has relapsed into shops. The shouldering of secular -buildings against the walls of churches is a sight so familiar in parts -of France that this market-place has an almost Continental flavour, in -keeping with the fact that Richmond grew up under the protection of the -formidable castle built by that Alan Rufus of Brittany who was the -Conqueror’s second cousin. The town ceased to be a possession of the -Dukes of Brittany in the reign of Richard II., but there had evidently -been sufficient time to allow French ideals to percolate into the minds -of the men of Richmond, for how otherwise can we account for this -strange familiarity of shops with a sacred building which is unheard of -in any other English town? Where else can one find a pork-butcher’s shop -inserted between the tower and the nave, or a tobacconist doing business -in the aisle of a church? Even the lower parts of the tower have been -given up to secular uses, so that one only realizes the existence of the -church by keeping far enough away to see the sturdy pinnacled tower that -rises above the desecrated lower portions of the building. In this tower -hangs the curfew-bell, which is rung at 6 a.m. and 8 p.m., a custom, -according to one writer, ‘that has continued ever since the time of -William the Conqueror.’ The bell, we know, is not Norman, and the tower -belongs to the Perpendicular period, but the church is referred to in -Norman times, and Leland, writing in the reign of Henry VIII., suggests -an earlier survival. He may, of course, be describing Norman grotesque -carvings, but, on the other hand, he may be recording some relics of a -more barbarous age when he writes: ‘There is a Chapel in _Richemont_ -Toune with straung Figures in the Waulles of it. The Peple there dreme -that it was ons [a temple of] Idoles.’ I wonder if those carved figures -were entirely destroyed in the days of the Commonwealth, or whether they -were merely thrown aside during some restoration, and are waiting for -digging or building operations to bring them to light. - -All the while we have been lingering in the market-place the great keep -has been looking at us over some old red roofs, and urging us to go on -at once to the finest sight that Richmond can offer, and, resisting the -appeal no longer, we make our way down a narrow little street leading -out to a walk that goes right round the castle cliffs at the base of the -ivy-draped walls. If this walk were at Harrogate or Buxton, we can -easily imagine that its charms would be vitiated by some evidences of a -popular recognition of its attractiveness. There would be a strong -ornamental iron railing on the exposed side of the path; there would -probably be an automatic-machine waiting to supply a souvenir picture -post-card of the view; there would be notices--most excellent where they -are needed--requesting visitors not to throw paper or orange-peel -anywhere but in the receptacle supplied; and, besides all this, there -would, I have no doubt, be ornamental shrubberies, and here and there a -few beds of flowers, kept with all the neatness of municipal -horticulture. Such efforts would meet with some sort of response on the -part of the public, and the castle walk would be sufficiently populous -to prevent anyone from appreciating its charms. No; instead of all this -we find a simple asphalt path without any fence at all. There are two or -three seats that are perfectly welcome, but there is a delightful -absence of shrubberies or flower-beds, and the notices to the public -fixed to the castle walls are weathered and quite inconspicuous. Beyond -all this, the castle walk is generally a place in which one can be -alone, and yet - - ‘This is not solitude; ’tis but to hold - Converse with Nature’s charms, and see those charms unfold.’ - -From down below comes the sound of the river, ceaselessly chafing its -rocky bottom and the big boulders that lie in the way. You can -distinguish the hollow sound of the waters as they fall over ledges into -deep pools, and you can watch the - -[Illustration: RICHMOND CASTLE FROM THE RIVER - -THIS well-known view of the castle from the banks of the Swale is only -one of the numerous romantic pictures that can be found in Richmond. The -great Norman keep, built about the year 1150, forms the dominating -feature of every aspect of the town.] - -silvery gleams of broken water between the old stone bridge and the dark -shade of the woods. The masses of trees clothing the side of the gorge -add a note of mystery to the picture by swallowing up the river in their -heavy shade, for, owing to its sinuous course among the cliffs, one can -see only a short piece of water beyond the bridge. - -The old corner of the town at the foot of Bargate appears over the edge -of the rocky slope, but on the opposite side of the Swale there is -little to be seen beside the green meadows and shady coppices that cover -the heights above the river. - -There is a fascination in this view in its capacity for change. It -responds to every mood of the weather, and every sunset that glows -across the sombre woods has some freshness, some feature that is quite -unlike any other. Autumn, too, is a memorable time for those who can -watch the face of Nature from this spot, for when one of those opulent -evenings of the fall of the year turns the sky into a golden sea of -glory, studded with strange purple islands, there is unutterable beauty -in the flaming woods and the pale river. - -On the way back to the market-place we pass a decayed arch that was -probably a postern in the walls of the town. There can be no doubt -whatever of the existence of these walls, for Leland begins his -description of the town with the words ‘_Richemont_ Towne is waullid,’ -and in another place he says: ‘Waullid it was, but the waul is now -decayid. The Names and Partes of 4 or 5 Gates yet remaine.’ He also -tells us the names of some of these gates: ‘_Frenchegate_ yn the North -Parte of the Towne, and is the most occupied Gate of the Towne. -_Finkel-streate Gate, Bargate_, all iii be downe.’ Leland also details -how the wall enclosed little beside the market-place, the houses -adjoining it, and the gardens behind them, and that the area occupied by -the castle was practically the same as that of the town. We wonder why -Richmond could not have preserved her gates as York has done, or why she -did not even make the effort sufficient to retain a single one, as -Bridlington and Beverley did. The two posterns--one we have just -mentioned, and the other in Friar’s Wynd, on the north side of the -market-place, with a piece of wall 6 feet thick adjoining--are -interesting, but we would have preferred something much finer than these -mere arches; and while we are grumbling over what Richmond has lost, we -may also measure the disaster which befell the market-place in 1771, -when the old cross was destroyed. Before that year there stood on the -site of the present obelisk a very fine cross which Clarkson, who wrote -about a century ago, mentions as being the greatest beauty of the town -to an antiquary. A high flight of steps led up to a square platform, -which was enclosed by a richly ornamented wall about 6 feet high, having -buttresses at the corners, each surmounted with a dog seated on its -hind-legs. Within the wall rose the cross, with its shaft made from one -piece of stone. There were ‘many curious compartments’ in the wall, says -Clarkson, and ‘a door that opened into the middle of the square,’ but -this may have been merely an arched opening. The enrichments, either of -the cross itself or the wall, included four shields bearing the arms of -the great families of Fitz-Hugh, Scrope (quartering Tibetot), Conyers, -and Neville. From the description there is little doubt that this cross -was a very beautiful example of Perpendicular or perhaps Decorated -Gothic, in place of which we have a crude and bulging obelisk bearing -the inscription: ‘Rebuilt (!) A.D. 1771, Christopher Wayne, Esq., -Mayor’; it should surely have read: ‘Perpetrated during the Mayoralty of -Christopher Wayne, Goth.’ The old cross was pulled down ‘for particular -reasons,’ says Clarkson, but, even if those reasons had been valid, the -stones might have been carefully marked, and the whole structure could -have been rebuilt in some other part of the market-place. - -Although, as we have seen, Leland, who wrote in 1538, mentions -Frenchgate and Finkel Street Gate as ‘down,’ yet they must have been -only partially destroyed, or were rebuilt afterwards, for Whitaker, -writing in 1823, mentions that they were pulled down ‘not many years -ago’ to allow the passage of broad and high-laden waggons. There can be -little doubt, therefore, that, swollen with success after the demolition -of the cross, the Mayor and Corporation proceeded to attack the -remaining gateways, so that now not the smallest suggestion of either -remains. But even here we have not completed the list of barbarisms that -took place about this time. The Barley Cross, which stood near the -larger one, must have been quite an interesting feature. It consisted of -a lofty pillar with a cross at the top, and rings were fastened either -on the shaft or to the steps upon which it stood, so that the cross -might answer the purpose of a whipping-post. The pillory stood not far -away, and the may-pole is also mentioned. - -But despite all this squandering of the treasures that it should have -been the business of the town authorities to preserve, the tower of the -Grey Friars has survived, and, next to the castle, it is one of the -chief ornaments of the town. Whitaker is by no means sure of the motives -that led to its preservation--perhaps because he knew the Richmond -people too well to expect much of them--for he writes: ‘Taste, however, -or veneration, or lucky accident, has preserved the great tower of the -“Freres” of Richmond.’ Certainly none of these causes saved any other -portions of the buildings, for the beautiful Perpendicular tower stands -quite alone. It is on the north side of the town, outside the narrow -limits of the walls, and was probably only finished in time to witness -the dispersal of the friars who had built it. It is even possible that -it was part of a new church that was still incomplete when the -Dissolution of the Monasteries made the work of no account except as -building materials for the townsfolk. The actual day of the surrender -was January 19, 1538, and we wonder if Robert Sanderson, the Prior, and -the fourteen brethren under him, suffered much from the privations that -must have attended them at that coldest period of the year. At one time -the friars, being of a mendicant order, and inured to hard living and -scanty fare, might have made light of such a disaster, but in these -later times they had expanded somewhat from their austere ways of -living, and the dispersal must have cost them much suffering. Almost in -this actual year Leland writes of ‘their Howse, Medow, Orchard, and a -litle Wood,’ which he mentions as being walled in, and, seeing that the -wall enclosed nearly sixteen acres, it appears probable that the -gray-cloaked men can scarcely have been ignorant of all the luxuries of -life. Notwithstanding this, they stoutly refused to acknowledge the -King’s supremacy, and suffered accordingly. - -Going back to the reign of Henry VII. or thereabouts, we come across the -curious ballad of ‘The Felon Sow of Rokeby and the Freres of Richmond’ -quoted from an old manuscript by Sir Walter Scott in ‘Rokeby.’ It may -have been as a practical joke, or merely as a good way of getting rid of -such a terrible beast, that - - ‘Ralph of Rokeby, with goodwill, - The fryers of Richmond gaver her till.’ - -Friar Middleton, who with two lusty men was sent to fetch the sow from -Rokeby, could scarcely have known that she was - - ‘The grisliest beast that ere might be, - Her head was great and gray: - She was bred in Rokeby Wood; - There were few that thither goed, - That came on live [= alive] away. - - ‘She was so grisley for to meete, - She rave the earth up with her feete, - And bark came fro the tree; - When fryer Middleton her saugh, - Weet ye well he might not laugh, - Full earnestly look’d hee.’ - -To calm the terrible beast when they found it almost impossible to hold -her, the friar began to read ‘in St. John his Gospell,’ but - - ‘The sow she would not Latin heare, - But rudely rushed at the frear,’ - -who, turning very white, dodged to the shelter of a tree, whence he saw -with horror that the sow had got clear of the other two men. At this -their courage evaporated, and all three fled for their lives along the -Watling Street. When they came to Richmond and told their tale of the -‘feind of hell’ in the garb of a sow, the warden decided to hire on the -next day two of the ‘boldest men that ever were borne.’ These two, -Gilbert Griffin and a ‘bastard son of Spaine,’ went to Rokeby clad in -armour and carrying their shields and swords of war, and even then they -only just overcame the grisly sow. They lifted the dead brute on to the -back of a horse, so that it rested across the two panniers, - - ‘And to Richmond they did hay: - When they saw her come, - They sang merrily _Te Deum_, - The fryers on that day.’ - -If we go across the river by the modern bridge, we can see the humble -remains of St. Martin’s Priory standing in a meadow by the railway. The -ruins consist of part of a Perpendicular tower and a Norman doorway. -Perhaps the tower was built in order that the Grey Friars might not -eclipse the older foundation, for St. Martin’s was a cell belonging to -St. Mary’s Abbey at York, and was founded by Wyman, steward or dapifer -to the Earl of Richmond about the year 1100, whereas the Franciscans in -the town owed their establishment to Radulph Fitz-Ranulph, a lord of -Middleham in 1258. The doorway of St. Martin’s, with its zigzag -mouldings, must be part of Wyman’s building, but no other traces of it -remain. Having come back so rapidly to the Norman age, we may well stay -there for a time while we make our way over the bridge again and up the -steep ascent of Frenchgate to the castle. - -On entering the small outer barbican, which is reached by a lane from -the market-place, we come to the base of the Norman keep. Its great -height of nearly 100 feet is quite unbroken from foundations to summit, -and the flat buttresses are featureless. The recent pointing of the -masonry has also taken away any pronounced weathering, and has left the -tower with almost the same gaunt appearance that it had when Duke Conan -saw it completed. Passing through the arch in the wall abutting the -keep, we come into the grassy space of over two acres, that is enclosed -by the ramparts. There are some modern quarters for soldiers on the -western side which we had not noticed before, and the grass is levelled -in places for lawn tennis, but we had not expected to discover imposing -views inside the walls, where the advantage of the cliffs is lost. We do -find, however, architectural details which are missing outside. The -basement of the keep was vaulted in a massive fashion in the Decorated -period, but the walls are probably those of the first Earl Alan, who was -the first ‘Frenchman’ who owned the great part of Yorkshire which had -formerly belonged to Edwin, the Saxon Earl. It is not definitely known -by what stages the keep reached its present form, though there is every -reason to believe that Conan, the fifth Earl of Richmond, left the tower -externally as we see it to-day. This puts the date of the completion of -the keep between 1146 and 1171. The floors are now a store for the -uniforms and accoutrements of the soldiers quartered at Richmond, so -that there is little to be seen as we climb a staircase in the walls, 11 -feet thick, and reach the battlemented turrets. Looking downwards, we -gaze right into the chimneys of the nearest houses, and we see the old -roofs of the town packed closely together in the shelter of the mighty -tower. A few tiny people are moving about in the market-place, and there -is a thin web of drifting smoke between us and them. Everything is -peaceful and remote; even the sound of the river is lost in the wind -that blows freely upon us from the great moorland wastes stretching away -to the western horizon. It is a romantic country that lays around us, -and though the cultivated area must be infinitely greater than in the -fighting days when these battlements were finished, yet I suppose the -Vale - -[Illustration: RICHMOND FROM THE WEST - -FROM this point of view, a great stretch of fertile and richly wooded -country is seen. The mediæval-looking town, perched on its rocky height -above one of the deep windings of the Swale, plainly shows how its name -of the Rich Mount suggested itself. The castle keep shows most -prominently, but to the left of it can be seen the Grey Friar’s Tower -and those of the two churches.] - -of Mowbray which we gaze upon to the east must have been green, and to -some extent fertile, when that Conan who was Duke of Brittany and also -Earl of Richmond looked out over the innumerable manors that were his -Yorkshire possessions. I can imagine his eye glancing down on a far more -thrilling scene than the green three-sided courtyard enclosed by a -crumbling gray wall, though to him the buildings, the men, and every -detail that filled the great space, were no doubt quite prosaic. It did -not thrill him to see a man-at-arms cleaning weapons, when the man and -his clothes, and even the sword, were as modern and everyday as the -soldier’s wife and child that we can see ourselves, but how much would -we not give for a half an hour of his vision, or even a part of a -second, with a good camera in our hands? - -Instead of wasting time on vain thoughts of this character, it would -perhaps be wiser to go down and examine the actual remains of these -times that have survived all the intervening centuries. - -In the lower part of what is called Robin Hood’s Tower is the Chapel of -St. Nicholas, with arcaded walls of early Norman date, and a long and -narrow slit forming the east window. More interesting than this is the -Norman hall at the south-east angle of the walls. It was possibly used -as the banqueting-room of the castle, and is remarkable as being one of -the best preserved of the Norman halls forming separate buildings that -are to be found in this country. The hall is roofless, but the corbels -remain in a perfect state, and the windows on each side are well -preserved. The builder was probably Earl Conan, for the keep has details -of much the same character. It is generally called Scolland’s Hall, -after the Lord of Bedale of that name, who was a sewer or dapifer to the -first Earl Alan of Richmond. Scolland was one of the tenants of the -Earl, and under the feudal system of tenure he took part in the regular -guarding of the castle. - -There is probably much Norman work in various parts of the crumbling -curtain walls, and at the south-west corner a Norman turret is still to -be seen. - -Unless the Romans established at Catterick had a station there, it seems -very probable that before the Norman Conquest the actual site of -Richmond was entirely vacant; for, though the Domesday Survey makes -mention of one or two names that indicate some lost villages in the -neighbourhood, there are no traces in the town of anything earlier than -the Norman period. No stones of Saxon origin, so far as evidence exists, -have come to light during any restorations of the churches, and the only -suggestion of anything pre-Norman is Leland’s mention of those ‘idoles’ -that were in his time to be seen in the walls of Holy Trinity Church. - -For some reason this magnificent position for a stronghold was -overlooked by the Saxons, the seat of their government in this part of -Yorkshire being at Gilling, less than three miles to the north. The -importance of this place, which is now nothing more than a village, is -shown by the fact that it gave its name to the Gillingshire of early -times as well as to the wapentakes of Gilling East and Gilling West. -There was no naturally defensive site for a castle at Gilling, and the -new owners of the land familiar with the enormous advantages of such -sites as Falaise and Domfront were not slow to discover the bold cliff -above the Swale just to the south. Alan Rufus, one of the sons of the -Duke of Brittany, who received from the Conqueror the vast possessions -of Earl Edwin, was no doubt the founder of Richmond. He probably -received this splendid reward for his services soon after the -suppression of the Saxon efforts for liberty under the northern Earls. -William, having crushed out the rebellion in the remorseless fashion -which finally gave him peace in his new possessions, distributed the -devastated Saxon lands among his supporters; thus a great part of the -earldom of Mercia fell to this Breton. - -The site of Richmond was fixed as the new centre of power, and the name, -with its apparently obvious meaning, may date from that time, unless the -suggested Anglo-Saxon derivation which gives it as Rice-munt--the hill -of rule--is correct. After this Gilling must soon have ceased to be of -any account. There can be little doubt that the castle was at once -planned to occupy the whole area enclosed by the walls as they exist -to-day, although the full strength of the place was not realized until -the time of the fifth Earl, who, as we have seen, was most probably the -builder of the keep in its final form, as well as other parts of the -castle. Richmond must then have been considered almost impregnable, and -this may account for the fact that it appears to have never been -besieged. In 1174, when William the Lion of Scotland was invading -England, we are told in Jordan Fantosme’s Chronicle that Henry II., -anxious for the safety of the honour of Richmond, and perhaps of its -custodian as well, asked: ‘Randulf de Glanvile est-il en Richemunt?’ The -King was in France, his possessions were threatened from several -quarters, and it would doubtless be a relief to him to know that a -stronghold of such importance was under the personal command of so able -a man as Glanville. In July of that year the danger from the Scots was -averted by a victory at Alnwick, in which fight Glanville was one of the -chief commanders of the English, and he probably led the men of -Richmondshire. - -It is a strange thing that Richmond Castle, despite its great -pre-eminence, should have been allowed to become a ruin in the reign of -Edward III.--a time when castles had obviously lost none of the -advantages to the barons which they had possessed in Norman times. The -only explanation must have been the divided interests of the owners, -for, as Dukes of Brittany, as well as Earls of Richmond, their English -possessions were frequently endangered when France and England were at -war. And so it came about that when a Duke of Brittany gave his support -to the King of France in a quarrel with the English, his possessions -north of the Channel became Crown property. How such a condition of -affairs could have continued for so long is difficult to understand, but -the final severing came at last, when the unhappy Richard II. was on the -throne of England. The honour of Richmond then passed to Ralph Neville, -the first Earl of Westmoreland, but the title was given to Edmund Tudor, -whose mother was Queen Catherine, the widow of Henry V. Edmund Tudor, as -all know, married Margaret Beaufort, the heiress of John of Gaunt, and -died about two months before his wife--then scarcely fourteen years -old--gave birth to his only son, who succeeded to the throne of England -as Henry VII. He was Earl of Richmond from his birth, and it was he who -carried the name to the Thames by giving it to his splendid palace which -he built at Shene. Even the ballad of ‘The Lass of Richmond Hill’ is -said to come from Yorkshire, although it is commonly considered a -possession of Surrey. - -Protected by the great castle, there came into existence the town of -Richmond, which grew and flourished. The houses must have been packed -closely together to provide the numerous people with quarters inside the -wall which was built to protect the place from the raiding Scots. The -area of the town was scarcely larger than the castle, and although in -this way the inhabitants gained security from one danger, they ran a -greater risk from a far more insidious foe, which took the form of -pestilences of a most virulent character. After one of these visitations -the town of Richmond would be left in a pitiable plight. Many houses -would be deserted, and fields became ‘overrun with briars, nettles, and -other noxious weeds.’ - -There is a record of the desolation and misery that was found to exist -in Richmond during the reign of Edward III. A plague had carried off -about 2,000 people; the Scots, presumably before the building of the -wall, had by their inroads added to the distress in the town, and the -castle was in such a state of dilapidation as to be worth nothing a -year. In the thirteenth century Richmond had been the mart of a very -large district. It was a great centre for the distribution of corn, and -goods were brought from Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland to be -sold in the market on Saturdays. Such an extensive trade produced a -large class of burgesses, merchants, and craftsmen, who were -sufficiently numerous to form themselves into no less than thirteen -separate guilds. There were the mercers, grocers, and haberdashers -united into one company; the glovers and skinners, who combined under -the name of fellmongers. There were the butchers, tailors, tanners, -blacksmiths, and cappers, who kept themselves apart as distinct -companies; and the remaining nineteen trades were massed together in six -guilds, such ill-assorted people as drapers, vintners, and surgeons -going together. With various charters, giving all sorts of rights and -immunities, these companies survived the disasters which befell the -place, although the growth of other market towns, such as Bedale, -Masham, and Middleham, undermined their position, and sometimes gave -rise to loud complaints and petitions to be eased of the payments by -which the citizens held their charter. With keen competition to contend -against, the poor Richmond folk must have thought their lot a miserable -one when a fresh pestilential scourge was inflicted upon them. - -The first death took place on August 17, 1597, when Roger Sharp -succumbed to a disease which spread with such rapidity that by December -15 in the following year 1,050 had died within the parish, and -altogether there were 2,200 deaths in the rural deanery of Richmond. -This plague was by no means confined to Richmond, and so great was the -mortality that the assizes at Durham were not held, and business -generally in the northern parts of England was paralyzed. - -In the Civil War the town was spared the disaster of a siege, perhaps -because the castle was not in a proper state for defence. If fighting -had occurred, there is little doubt that the keep would have been -partially wrecked, as at Scarborough, and Richmond would have lost the -distinction of possessing such an imposing feature. - -As soon as one digs down a little into the story of a town with so rich -a history as this, it is tantalizing not to go deeper. One would like to -study every record that throws light on the events that were associated -with the growth of both the castle and the town, so that one might -discard the mistakes of the earlier writers and build up such a picture -of feudal times as few places in England could equal. Richmond of to-day -is so silent, so lacking in pageantry, that one must needs go to some -lonely spot, and there dream of all the semi-barbarous splendours that -the old walls have looked down upon when the cement between the great -stones still bore the marks of the masons’ trowels. One thinks of the -days when the occupants of the castle were newly come from Brittany, -when an alien tongue was heard on this cliff above the Swale, even as -had happened when the riverside echoes had had to accustom themselves to -an earlier change when Romans had laughed and talked on the same spot. -The men one dreams of are wearing suits of chain mail, or are in the -dress so quaintly drawn in the tapestry at Bayeux, and they have brought -with them their wives, their servants, and even their dogs. Thus -Richmond began as a foreign town, and the folks ate and drank and slept -as they had always done before they left France. Much of this alien -blood was no doubt absorbed by the already mixed Anglo-Saxon and Danish -population of Yorkshire, and perhaps, if his descent could be traced, -one would find that the passer-by who has just disturbed our dreaming -has Breton blood in his veins. - -Easby Abbey is so much a possession of Richmond that we cannot go -towards the mountains until we have seen something of its charms. The -ruins slumber in such unutterable peace by the riverside that the place -is well suited to our mood to go a-dreaming of the centuries which have -been so long dead that our imaginations are not cumbered with any of the -dull times that may have often set the canons of St. Agatha’s yawning. -The walk along the steep shady bank above the river is beautiful all -the way, and the surroundings of the broken walls and traceried windows -are singularly rich. There is nothing, however, at Easby that makes a -striking picture, although there are many architectural fragments that -are full of beauty. Fountains, Rievaulx and Tintern, all leave Easby far -behind, but there are charms enough here with which to be content, and -it is, perhaps, a pleasant thought to know that, although on this sunny -afternoon these meadows by the Swale seem to reach perfection, yet in -the neighbourhood of Ripon there is something still finer waiting for -us. Of the abbey church scarcely more than enough has survived for the -preparation of a ground-plan, and many of the evidences are now -concealed by the grass. The range of domestic buildings that surrounded -the cloister garth are, therefore, the chief interest, although these -also are broken and roofless. We can wander among the ivy-grown walls -which, in the refectory, retain some semblance of their original form, -and we can see the picturesque remains of the common-room, the -guest-hall, the chapter-house, and the sacristy. Beyond the ruins of the -north transept, a corridor leads into the infirmary, which, besides -having an unusual position, is remarkable as being one of the most -complete groups of buildings set apart for this object. A noticeable -feature of the cloister garth is a Norman arch belonging to a doorway -that appears to be of later date. This is probably the only survival of -the first monastery founded, it is said, by Roald, Constable of Richmond -Castle in 1152. Building of an extensive character was, therefore, in -progress at the same time in these sloping meadows, as on the castle -heights, and St. Martin’s Priory, close to the town, had not long been -completed. Whoever may have been the founder of the abbey, it is -definitely known that the great family of Scrope obtained the privileges -that had been possessed by the constable, and they added so much to the -property of the monastery that in the reign of Henry VIII. the Scropes -were considered the original founders. Easby thus became the stately -burying-place of the family, and the splendid tombs that appeared in the -choir of their church were a constant reminder to the canons of the -greatness of the lords of Bolton. Sir Henry le Scrope was buried beneath -a great stone effigy, bearing the arms--azure, a bend or--of his house. -Near by lay Sir William le Scrope’s armed figure, and round about were -many others of the family buried beneath flat stones. We know this from -the statement of an Abbot of Easby in the fourteenth century; and but -for the record of his words there would be nothing to tell us anything -of these ponderous memorials, which have disappeared as completely as -though they had had no more permanence than the yellow leaves that are -just beginning to flutter from the trees. The splendid church, the -tombs, and even the very family of Scrope, have disappeared; but across -the hills, in the valley of the Ure, their castle still stands, and in -the little church of Wensley there can still be seen the parclose screen -of Perpendicular date that one of the Scropes must have rescued when the -monastery was being stripped and plundered. - -The fine gatehouse of Easby Abbey, which is in a good state of -preservation, stands a little to the east of the parish church, and the -granary is even now in use. - -On the sides of the parvise over the porch of the parish church are the -arms of Scrope, Conyers, and Aske; and in the chancel of this extremely -interesting old building there can be seen a series of wall-paintings, -some of which probably date from the reign of Henry III. This would make -them earlier than those at Pickering. - - - - -SWALEDALE - - - - -CHAPTER III - -SWALEDALE - - -There is a certain elevated and wind-swept spot, scarcely more than a -long mile from Richmond, that commands a view over a wide extent of -romantic country. Vantage-points of this type, within easy reach of a -fair-sized town, are inclined to be overrated, and, what is far worse, -to be spoiled by the litter of picnic parties; but Whitcliffe Scar is -free from both objections. In magnificent September weather one may -spend many hours in the midst of this great panorama without being -disturbed by a single human being, besides a possible farm labourer or -shepherd; and if scraps of paper and orange-peel are ever dropped here, -the keen winds that come from across the moors dispose of them as -efficaciously as the keepers of any public parks. - -The view is removed from a comparison with many others from the fact -that one is situated at the dividing-line between the richest -cultivation and the wildest moorlands. Whitcliffe Scar is the Mount -Pisgah from whence the jaded dweller in towns can gaze into a promised -land of solitude, - - ‘Where things that own not man’s dominion dwell, - And mortal foot hath ne’er or rarely been.’ - -The eastward view of green and smiling country is undeniably beautiful, -but to those who can appreciate Byron’s enthusiasm for the trackless -mountain there is something more indefinable and inspiring in the -mysterious loneliness of the west. The long, level lines of the moorland -horizon, when the sun is beginning to climb downwards, are cut out in -the softest blue and mauve tints against the shimmering transparency of -the western sky, and the plantations that clothe the sides of the dale -beneath one are filled with wonderful shadows, which are thrown out with -golden outlines. The view along the steep valley extends for a few -miles, and then is suddenly cut off by a sharp bend where the Swale, a -silver ribbon along the bottom of the dale, disappears among the sombre -woods and the shoulders of the hills. - -In this aspect of Swaledale one sees its mildest and most civilized -mood; for beyond the purple - -[Illustration: SWALEDALE IN THE EARLY AUTUMN - -THE view is taken from a spot just above Richmond, known as Willance’s -Leap. One is looking due west, with the high mountains of Craven just -beyond the blue plateau.] - -hillside that may be seen in the illustration, cultivation becomes more -palpably a struggle, and the gaunt moors, broken by lines of precipitous -scars, assume control of the scenery. - -From 200 feet below, where the river is flowing along its stony bed, -comes the sound of the waters ceaselessly grinding the pebbles, and from -the green pastures there floats upwards a distant ba-baaing. No railway -has penetrated the solitudes of Swaledale, and, as far as one may look -into the future in such matters, there seems every possibility of this -loneliest and grandest of the Yorkshire dales retaining its isolation in -this respect. None but the simplest of sounds, therefore, are borne on -the keen winds that come from the moorland heights, and the purity of -the air whispers in the ear the pleasing message of a land where -chimneys have never been. - -Besides the original name of Whitcliffe Scar, this remarkable view-point -has, since 1606, been popularly known as ‘Willance’s Leap.’ In that year -a certain Robert Willance, whose father appears to have been a -successful draper in Richmond, was hunting in the neighbourhood, when he -found himself enveloped in a fog. It must have been sufficiently dense -to shut out even the nearest objects; for, without any warning, -Willance found himself on the verge of the scar, and before he could -check his horse both were precipitated over the cliff. We have no -detailed account of whether the fall was broken in any way; but, -although his horse was killed instantly, Willance, by some almost -miraculous good fortune, found himself alive at the bottom with nothing -worse than a broken leg. Such a story must have been the talk of the -whole of the Dale Country for months after the event, and it is in no -way surprising that the spot should have become permanently associated -with the rider’s name. He certainly felt grateful for his astonishing -escape, despite the amputation of the broken limb; for, besides the -erection of some inscribed stones that still mark the position of his -fall from the cliff, Willance, in order to further commemorate the -event, presented the Corporation of Richmond with a silver cup, which -remains in the possession of the town. - -Turning back towards Richmond, the contrast of the gently-rounded -contours and the rich cultivation gives the landscape the appearance of -a vast garden. One can see the great Norman keep of the castle dwarfing -the church towers, and the red-roofed houses that cluster so -picturesquely under its shelter. The afternoon sunlight floods -everything with its generous glow, and the shadows of the trees massed -on the hill-slopes are singularly blue. At the bottom of the valley the -Swale abandons its green meadows for a time, and disappears into the -deep and leafy gorge that adds so much to the charm of Richmond. Beyond -the town the course of the river can be traced as it takes its way past -Easby Abbey and the sunny slopes crowned with woods that go down on -either side to its sparkling waters, until the level plain confuses -every feature in a maze of hedgerow and coppice that loses itself in the -hazy horizon. - -It is a difficult matter to decide which is the more attractive means of -exploring Swaledale; for if one keeps to the road at the bottom of the -valley many beautiful and remarkable aspects of the country are missed, -and yet if one goes over the moors it is impossible to really explore -the recesses of the dale. The old road from Richmond to Reeth avoids the -dale altogether, except for the last mile, and its ups and its downs -make the traveller pay handsomely for the scenery by the way. But this -ought not to deter anyone from using the road; for the view of the -village of Marske, cosily situated among the wooded heights that rise -above the beck, is missed by those who keep to the new road along the -banks of the Swale. The romantic seclusion of this village is -accentuated towards evening, when a shadowy stillness fills the hollows. -The higher woods may be still glowing with the light of the golden west, -while down below a softness of outline adds beauty to every object. The -old bridge that takes the road to Reeth across Marske Beck needs no such -fault-forgiving light, for it was standing in the reign of Elizabeth, -and, from its appearance, it is probably centuries older. There used to -be a quaint little mill close to the bridge, but this was, -unfortunately, swept away when some alterations were being made in the -surroundings of Marske Hall, a seat of the Huttons. It was one of this -family, in whose hands the manor of Marske has remained for over 300 -years, to whom the idea occurred of converting what was formerly a -precipitous ravine, with bare rocky scars on either side, into the -heavily wooded and romantic spot one finds to-day. Beyond the -beautifying of this little branch valley of Swaledale, the Huttons are a -notable family in having produced two Archbishops. They both bore the -same name of Matthew Hutton. The first, who is mentioned by Thomas -Fuller in his ‘Worthies’ as ‘a learned Prelate,’ was raised to the -Archbishopric of York from Durham in 1594. This Matthew Hutton seems to -have found favour with Elizabeth, for, beyond his rapid progress in the -Church, there is still preserved in Marske Hall a gold cup presented to -him by the Queen.[A] The second Archbishop was promoted from Bangor to -York, and finally to Canterbury in 1757. - - [A] Murray. - -Rising above the woods near Marske Hall there appears a tall obelisk, -put up to the memory of Captain Matthew Hutton about a century ago, when -that type of memorial had gained a prodigious popularity. An obelisk -towering above a plantation can scarcely be considered an attractive -feature in a landscape, for its outline is too strongly suggestive of a -mine-shaft; but how can one hope to find beauty in any of the -architectural efforts of a period that seems to have been dead to art? - -The new road to Reeth from Richmond goes down at an easy gradient from -the town to the banks of the river, which it crosses when abreast of -Whitcliffe Scar, the view in front being at first much the same as the -nearer portions of the dale seen from that height. Down on the left, -however, there are some chimney-shafts, so recklessly black that they -seem to be no part whatever of their sumptuous natural surroundings, and -might almost suggest a nightmare in which one discovered that some of -the vilest chimneys of the Black Country had taken to touring in the -beauty spots of the country. - -As one goes westward, the road penetrates right into the bold scenery -that invites exploration when viewed from ‘Willance’s Leap.’ There is a -Scottish feeling--perhaps Alpine would be more correct--in the -steeply-falling sides of the dale, all clothed in firs and other dense -plantations; and just where the Swale takes a decided turn towards the -south there is a view up Marske Beck that adds much to the romance of -the scene. Behind one’s back the side of the dale rises like a dark -green wall entirely in shadow, and down below, half buried in foliage, -the river swirls and laps its gravelly beaches, also in shadow. Beyond a -strip of pasture begin the tumbled masses of trees which, as they climb -out of the depths of the valley, reach the warm, level rays of sunlight -that turns the first leaves that have passed their prime into the fierce -yellows and burnt siennas which, when faithfully represented at -Burlington House, are often considered overdone. Even the gaunt obelisk -near Marske Hall responds to a fine sunset of this sort, and shows a -gilded side that gives it almost a touch of grandeur. - -Evening is by no means necessary to the attractions of Swaledale, for a -blazing noon gives lights and shades and contrasts of colour that are a -large portion of Swaledale’s charms. If instead of taking either the old -road by way of Marske, or the new one by the riverside, one had crossed -the old bridge below the castle, and left Richmond by a very steep road -that goes to Leyburn, one would have reached a moorland that is at its -best in the full light of a clear morning. The road goes through the -gray little village of Hudswell, which possesses some half-destroyed -cottages that give it a forlorn and even pathetic character. As one goes -on towards the open plateau of Downholme Moor, a sense of keen regret -will force itself upon the mind; for here, in this gloriously healthy -air, there are cottages in excess of the demand, and away in the great -centres of labour, where the atmosphere is lifeless and smoke-begrimed, -overcrowding is a perpetual evil. Perhaps the good folks who might have -been dwelling in Hudswell, or some other breezy village, prefer their -surroundings in some gloomy street in Sheffield; perhaps those who lived -in these broken little homes died long ago, and there are none who sigh -for space and air after the fashion of caged larks; perhaps---- But we -have reached a gate now, and when we are through it and out on the bare -brown expanse, with the ‘wide horizons beckoning’ on every side, the -wind carries away every gloomy thought, and leaves in its place one vast -optimism, which is, I suppose, the joy of living, and one of God’s best -gifts to man. - -The clouds are big, but they carry no threat of rain, for right down to -the far horizon from whence this wind is coming there are patches of -blue proportionate to the vast spaces overhead. As each white mass -passes across the sun, we are immersed in a shadow many acres in extent; -but the sunlight has scarcely fled when a rim of light comes over the -edge of the plain, just above the hollow where Downholme village lies -hidden from sight, and in a few minutes that belt of sunshine has -reached some sheep not far off, and rimmed their coats with a brilliant -edge of white. Shafts of whiteness, like searchlights, stream from -behind a distant cloud, and everywhere there is brilliant contrast and a -purity to the eye and lungs that only a Yorkshire moor possesses. - -Making our way along a grassy track, we cross the heather and bent, and -go down an easy - -[Illustration: DOWNHOLME MOORE, ABOVE SWALEDALE] - - “Wide horizons beckoning, far beyond the hill, - - * * * * * - - Greatness overhead, - The flock’s contented tread - An’ trample o’ the morning wind adown the open trail.” - H. H. BASHFORD. - - -slope towards the gray roofs of Downholme. The situation is pretty, and -there is a triangular green beyond the inn; but, owing to the church -being some distance away, the village seems to lack in features. - -A short two miles up the road to Leyburn, just above Gill Beck, there is -an ancient house known as Walburn Hall, and also the remains of the -chapel belonging to it, which dates from the Perpendicular period. The -buildings are now used as a farm, but there are still enough suggestions -of a dignified past to revivify the times when this was a centre of -feudal power. Although the architecture is not Norman, there is a -fragment in one of the walls that seems to indicate an earlier house -belonging to the Walburns, for one of them--Wymer de Walburn--held a -certain number of oxgangs of land there in 1286. - -Turning back to Swaledale by a lane on the south side of Gill Beck, -Downholme village is passed a mile away on the right, and the bold -scenery of the dale once more becomes impressive. The sunshine has -entirely gone now, and, although there are still some hours of daylight -left, the ponderous masses of blue-gray cloud that have slowly spread -themselves from one horizon to the other have caused a gloom to take the -place of the morning’s dazzling sunshine. When we get lower down, and -have a glimpse of the Swale over the hedge, a most imposing scene is -suddenly visible. We would have illustrated it here, but the Dale -Country is so prolific in its noble views that a selection of twenty -pictures must of pure necessity do injustice to the many scenes it -omits. - -Two great headlands, formed by the wall-like terminations of Cogden and -Harkerside Moors, rising one above the other, stand out magnificently. -Their huge sides tower up nearly a thousand feet from the river, until -they are within reach of the lowering clouds that every moment threaten -to envelop them in their indigo embrace. There is a curious rift in the -dark cumulus revealing a thin line of dull carmine that frequently -changes its shape and becomes nearly obliterated, but its presence in no -way weakens the awesomeness of the picture. The dale appears to become -huger and steeper as the clouds thicken, and what have been merely woods -and plantations in this heavy gloom become mysterious forests. The -river, too, seems to change its character, and become a pale serpent, -uncoiling itself from some mountain fastness where no living creatures, -besides great auks and carrion birds, dwell. - -In such surroundings as these there were established in the Middle Ages -two religious houses, within a mile of one another, on opposite sides of -the swirling river. On the north bank, not far from Marrick village, you -may still see the ruins of Marrick Priory in its beautiful situation -much as Turner painted it a century ago. Leland describes Marrick as ‘a -Priory of Blake Nunnes of the Foundation of the Askes.’ It was, we know, -an establishment for Benedictine Nuns, founded or endowed by Roger de -Aske in the twelfth century. At Ellerton, on the other side of the river -a little lower down, the nunnery was of the Cistercian Order; for, -although very little of its history has been discovered, Leland writes -of the house as ‘a Priori of White clothid Nunnes.’ After the Battle of -Bannockburn, when the Scots raided all over the North Riding of -Yorkshire, they came along Swaledale in search of plunder, and we are -told that Ellerton suffered from their violence. The ruins that -witnessed these scenes remain most provokingly silent, and Heaven knows -if they ever echoed to the cries of the defenceless nuns or the coarse -laughter of the Scots, for the remains tell us nothing at all. - -Where the dale becomes wider, owing to the branch valley of -Arkengarthdale, there are two villages close together. Grinton is -reached first, and is older than Reeth, which is a short distance north -of the river. The parish of Grinton is one of the largest in Yorkshire. -It is more than twenty miles long, containing something near 50,000 -acres, and according to Mr. Speight, who has written a very detailed -history of Richmondshire, more than 30,000 acres of this consist of -mountain, grouse-moor, and scar. For so huge a parish the church is -suitable in size, but in the upper portions of the dales one must not -expect any very remarkable exteriors; and Grinton, with its low roofs -and plain battlemented tower, is much like other churches in the -neighbourhood. Inside there are suggestions of a Norman building that -has passed away, and the bowl of the font seems also to belong to that -period. The two chapels opening from the chancel contain some -interesting features, which include a hagioscope, and both are enclosed -by old screens. - -Leaving the village behind, and crossing the Swale, you soon come to -Reeth, which may, perhaps, be described as a little town. It must have -thrived with the lead-mines in Arkengarthdale and along the Swale, for -it has gone back since the period of its former prosperity, and is glad -of the fact that its splendid situation, and the cheerful green which -the houses look upon, have made it something of a holiday resort, -although it still retains its grayness and its simplicity, both of which -may be threatened if a red-roofed hotel were to make its appearance, the -bare thought of which is an anxiety to those who appreciate the soft -colours of the locality. - -When Reeth is left behind, there is no more of the fine ‘new’ road which -makes travelling so easy for the eleven miles from Richmond. The surface -is, however, by no means rough along the nine miles to Muker, although -the scenery becomes far wilder and more mountainous with every mile. The -dale narrows most perceptibly; the woods become widely separated, and -almost entirely disappear on the southern side; and the gaunt moors, -creeping down the sides of the valley, seem to threaten the narrow belt -of cultivation, that becomes increasingly restricted to the river -margins. Precipitous limestone scars fringe the browny-green heights in -many places, and almost girdle the summit of Calver Hill, the great bare -height that rises a thousand feet above Reeth. The farms and hamlets of -these upper parts of Swaledale are of the same grays, greens, and browns -as the moors and scars that surround them. The stone walls, that are -often high and forbidding, seem to suggest the fortifications required -for man’s fight with Nature, in which there is no encouragement for the -weak. In the splendid weather that so often welcomes the mere summer -rambler in the upper dales the austerity of the widely scattered farms -and villages may seem a little unaccountable; but a visit in January -would quite remove this impression, though even in these lofty parts of -England the worst winter snowstorm has, in quite recent years, been of -trifling inconvenience. Bad winters will, no doubt, be experienced again -on the fells; but leaving out of the account the snow that used to bury -farms, flocks, roads, and even the smaller gills, in a vast smother of -whiteness, there are still the winds that go shrieking over the desolate -heights, there is still the high rainfall, and there are still -destructive thunderstorms that bring with them hail of a size that we -seldom encounter in the lower levels. Mr. Lockwood records a remarkable -storm near Sedbergh in which there were only three flashes. The first -left senseless on the ground two brothers who were tending sheep, the -second killed three cows that were sheltering under an oak, and the -third unroofed a large portion of a barn and split up two trees. In -this case the ordinary conditions of thunderstorms would seem to have -been reversed, the electric discharge taking place from the earth to the -clouds; otherwise, it is hard to account for such destruction with each -flash. - -The great rapidity with which the Swale, or such streams as the Arkle, -can produce a devastating flood can scarcely be comprehended by those -who have not seen the results of even moderate rainstorms on the fells. -When, however, some really wet days have been experienced in the upper -parts of the dales, it seems a wonder that the bridges are not more -often in jeopardy. Long lines of pale-gray clouds, with edges so soft -that they almost coalesce, come pressing each other on to the bare -heights, and, almost before one mass has transformed itself into silvery -streaks on the fellsides, there are others pouring down on their -emaciated remains. - -Of course, even the highest hills of Yorkshire are surpassed in wetness -by their Lakeland neighbours; for whereas Hawes Junction, which is only -about seven miles south of Muker, has an average yearly rainfall of -about 62 inches, Mickleden, in Westmoreland, can show 137, and certain -spots in Cumberland aspire towards 200 inches in a year. No figures -seem to exist for Swaledale, but in the lower parts of Wensleydale the -rainfall is only half of what has been given for Hawes, which stands at -the head of that valley. - -The weather conditions being so severe, it is not surprising to find -that no corn at all is grown in Swaledale at the present day. Some -notes, found in an old family Bible in Teesdale, are quoted by Mr. -Joseph Morris. They show the painful difficulties experienced in the -eighteenth century from such entries as: ‘1782. I reaped oats for John -Hutchinson, when the field was covered with snow,’ and: ‘1799, Nov. 10. -Much corn to cut and carry. A hard frost.’ - -Muker, notwithstanding all these climatic difficulties, has some claim -to picturesqueness, despite the fact that its church is better seen at a -distance, for a close inspection reveals its rather poverty-stricken -state. The square tower, so typical of the dales, stands well above the -weathered roofs of the village, and there are sufficient trees to tone -down the severities of the stone walls, that are inclined to make one -house much like its neighbour, and but for natural surroundings would -reduce the hamlets to the same uniformity. At Muker, however, there is a -steep - -[Illustration: MUKER ON A STORMY AFTERNOON - -THIS is a typical village of the dales, with its simple square-towered -church and its greeny-grey roofs. The hill on the left is Kisdon, and -one is looking up the narrowest portion of Swaledale.] - -bridge and a rushing mountain stream that joins the Swale just below. -The road keeps close to this beck, and the houses are thus restricted to -one side of the way. There is a bright and cheerful appearance about the -Farmers’ Arms, the small inn that stands back a little from the road -with a cobbled space in front. Inside you may find a grandfather clock -by Pratt of Askrigg in Wensleydale, a portrait of Lord Kitchener, and a -good square meal of the ham and eggs and tea order. - -Away to the south, in the direction of the Buttertubs Pass, is Stags -Fell, 2,213 feet above the sea, and something like 1,300 feet above -Muker. Northwards, and towering over the village, is the isolated mass -of Kisdon Hill, on two sides of which the Swale, now a mountain stream, -rushes and boils among boulders and ledges of rock. This is one of the -finest portions of the dale, and, although the road leaves the river and -passes round the western side of Kisdon, there is a path that goes -through the glen, and brings one to the road again at Keld. - -Just before you reach Keld, the Swale drops 30 feet at Kisdon Force, and -after a night of rain there are many other waterfalls to be seen in this -district. These are not to me, however, the chief attractions of the -head of Swaledale, although without the angry waters the gills and -narrow ravines that open from the dale would lose much interest. It is -the stern grandeur of the scarred hillsides and the wide mountainous -views from the heights that give this part of Yorkshire such a -fascination. If you climb to the top of Rogan’s Seat, you have a huge -panorama of desolate country spread out before you. The confused jumble -of blue-gray mountains to the north-west is beyond the limits of -Yorkshire at last, and in their strong embrace those stern Westmoreland -hills hold the charms of Lakeland. Down below is the hamlet of Keld, -perched in an almost Swiss fashion on a sharply-falling hillside, and -among the surrounding masses of heaving moor are the birthplaces of the -dozen becks that supply the headwaters of the Swale. These nearer hills, -which include High Seat and the Lady’s Pillar, form the watershed of -this part of the Yorkshire border; for on the western slopes are to be -found the sources of the river Eden that flows through the beautiful -valley, which is one of the greatest charms of the Midland route to -Scotland. - -If one stays in this mountainous region, there are new and exciting -walks available for every day. There are gloomy recesses in the -hillsides that encourage exploration from the knowledge that they are -not tripper-worn, and there are endless heights to be climbed that are -equally free from the smallest traces of desecrating mankind. Rare -flowers, ferns, and mosses flourish in these inaccessible solitudes, and -will continue to do so, on account of the dangers that lurk in their -fastnesses, and also from the fact that their value is nothing to any -but those who are glad to leave them growing where they are. You can -look down into shadowy chasms in the limestone, where underground waters -fall splashing with a hollow sound upon black shimmering rocks far -below, or, stranger still, into subterranean pools from which the waters -overflow into yet greater depths. You can follow the mountain streams -through wooded ravines, and discover cascades and waterfalls that do not -appear in any maps, and you may leave them by the rough tracks that -climb the hillsides when you, perchance, have a longing for space and -the sparkling clearness of the moorland air. - - - - -WENSLEYDALE - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -WENSLEYDALE - - -The approach from Muker to the upper part of Wensleydale is by a -mountain road that can claim a grandeur which, to those who have never -explored the dales, might almost seem impossible. I have called it a -road, but it is, perhaps, questionable whether this is not too -high-sounding a term for a track so invariably covered with large loose -stones and furrowed with water-courses. At its highest point the road -goes through the Butter-tubs Pass, taking the traveller to the edge of -the pot-holes that have given their name to this thrilling way through -the mountain ridge dividing the Swale from the Ure. - -Such a lonely and dangerous road should no doubt be avoided at night, -but yet I am always grateful for the delays which made me so late that -darkness came on when I was at the highest portion of the pass. It was -late in September, and it was the day of the feast at Hawes, which had -drawn to that small town farmers and their wives, and most, if not all, -the young men and maidens within a considerable radius. I made my way -slowly up the long ascent from Muker, stumbling frequently on the loose -stones and in the waterworn runnels that were scarcely visible in the -dim twilight. The huge, bare shoulders of the fells began to close in -more and more as I climbed. Towards the west lay Great Shunnor Fell, its -vast brown-green mass being sharply defined against the clear evening -sky; while further away to the north-west there were blue mountains -going to sleep in the soft mistiness of the distance. Then the road made -a sudden zigzag, but went on climbing more steeply than ever, until at -last I found that the stony track had brought me to the verge of a -precipice. There was not sufficient light to see what dangers lay -beneath me, but I could hear the angry sound of a beck falling upon -quantities of bare rocks. At the edge of the road the ground curved away -in an insidious manner without any protecting bank, and I instinctively -drew towards the inner side of the way, fearing lest a stumble among the -stones that still covered the road might precipitate me into the gorge - -[Illustration: TWILIGHT IN THE BUTTER-TUBS PASS - -THE Butter-tubs are some deep pot-holes in the limestone that lie just -by the high stony road that goes from Hawes in Wensleydale to Muker in -Swaledale.] - -below, where, even if one survived the fall, there would be every -opportunity of succumbing to one’s injuries before anyone came along the -beck side. The place is, indeed, so lonely that I can quite believe it -possible that a man might die there and be reduced to a whitened -skeleton before discovery. Of course, one might be lucky enough to be -found by a shepherd, or some sheepdog might possibly come after -wanderers from a flock that had found their way to this grim recess; but -then, everyone is not equally on good terms with that jade Fortune, and -to such folk I offer this word of caution. But here I have only -commenced the dangers of this pass, for if one does not keep to the -road, there is on the other side the still greater menace of the -Buttertubs, the dangers of which are too well known to require any -emphasis of mine. Those pot-holes which have been explored with much -labour, and the use of winches and tackle and a great deal of stout -rope, have revealed in their cavernous depths the bones of sheep that -disappeared from flocks which have long since become mutton. This road -is surely one that would have afforded wonderful illustrations to the -‘Pilgrim’s Progress,’ for the track is steep and narrow and painfully -rough; dangers lie on either side, and safety can only be found by -keeping in the middle of the road. - -What must have been the thoughts, I wonder, of the dalesmen who on -different occasions had to go over the pass at night in those still -recent times when wraithes and hobs were terrible realities? In the -parts of Yorkshire where any records of the apparitions that used to -enliven the dark nights have been kept, I find that these awesome -creatures were to be found on every moor, and perhaps some day in my -reading I shall discover an account of those that haunted this pass. -Perhaps a considerate Providence has kept me from the knowledge of the -form these spirits assume in this particular spot, for the reason I will -recount. I had reached the portion of the road where it goes so -recklessly along the edge of the precipitous scars, when, far away on -the gloomy fell-side ahead of me, there glimmered a strange little light -that disappeared for a moment and then showed itself again. Soon -afterwards it was hidden, I supposed by some hollow in the ground. Had I -been bred in the dales in the time of our grandfathers, I should have -fled wildly from such a sight, and probably found an early grave in the -moist depths of one of the Buttertubs. As it was, although quite alone -and without any means of defence, I went on steadily, until at last, out -of the darkness, I heard a laugh that sounded human enough, and then -came to me the sound of a heavy cart lumbering slowly over the stones. -The breeze wafted to me a suggestion of tobacco, and in a moment my -anxiety had gone. The cart contained two girls, and by the horse’s head -walked a man, while another followed on horseback. One of the men lit -his pipe again, and in the momentary flare I could see his big, genial -face, the farm-horse, and the two happy maidens. We said ‘Good-night’ to -prove each other’s honesty, and after a while the sound of the cart died -away, as it went slowly along the windings of the pass. After this I was -seldom alone, for I had fallen in with the good folks who had gone over -to the feast at Hawes, and were now homeward bound in the darkness. - -Although there are probably few who care for rough moorland roads at -night, the Buttertubs Pass in daylight is still a memorable place. The -pot-holes can then be safely approached, and one can peer into the -blackness below until the eyes become adapted to the gloom. Then one -sees the wet walls of limestone and the curiously-formed isolated pieces -of rock that almost suggest columnar basalt. In crevices far down -delicate ferns are growing in the darkness. They shiver as the cool -water drips upon them from above, and the drops they throw off fall down -lower still into a stream of underground water that has its beginnings -no man knows where. On a hot day it is cooling simply to gaze into the -Buttertubs, and the sound of the falling waters down in these shadowy -places is pleasant after gazing on the dry fell-sides. - -Just beyond the head of the pass, where the descent to Hawes begins, the -shoulders of Great Shunnor Fell drop down, so that not only straight -ahead, but also westwards, one can see a splendid mountain view. -Ingleborough’s flat top is conspicuous in the south, and in every -direction there are indications of the geology of the fells. The hard -stratum of millstone grit that rests upon the limestone gives many of -the summits of the hills their level character, and forms the -sharply-defined scars that encircle them. Lower down the hills are -generally rounded. It used to puzzle Dr. Whitaker, the historian of -these parts, ‘how, upon a surface which must at first have consisted of -angles and right lines only, nothing but graceful curves should now -appear, as if some plastic hand had formed the original surface over -again for use and beauty at once.’ Then, with the blankest pessimism, -he goes on to say that ‘these are among the many questions relating to -the theory of the earth which the restless curiosity of man will ever be -asking without the hope or possibility of a solution’! The exclamation -mark is mine, for I cannot restrain my feelings of astonishment that a -learned man writing in 1805 should deny to us the knowledge we have of -the action of ice and the other forces of denudation, by which we are -able to understand to such a very great extent the agencies that have -produced the contours of the Yorkshire mountains. The sudden changes of -weather that take place among these watersheds would almost seem to be -cause enough to explain the wearing down of the angularities of the -heights. Even while we stand on the bridge at Hawes we can see three or -four ragged cloud edges letting down on as many places torrential rains, -while in between there are intervals of blazing sunshine, under which -the green fells turn bright yellow and orange in powerful contrast to -the indigo shadows on every side. Such rapid changes from complete -saturation to sudden heat are trying to the hardest rocks, and at -Hardraw, close at hand, there is a still more palpable process of -denudation in active operation. - -Such a morning as this is quite ideal for seeing the remarkable -waterfall known as Hardraw Scar or Force. The footpath that leads up the -glen leaves the road at the side of the ‘Green Dragon’ at Hardraw, where -the innkeeper hands us a key to open the gate we must pass through. -Being September, and an uncertain day for weather, we have the whole -glen to ourselves, until behind some rocks we discover a solitary -angler. There is nothing but the roughest of tracks to follow, for the -carefully-made pathway that used to go right up to the fall was swept -away half a dozen years ago, when the stream in a fierce mood cleared -its course of any traces of artificiality. We are deeply grateful, and -make our way among the big rocks and across the slippery surfaces of -shale, with the roar of the waters becoming more and more insistent. The -sun has turned into the ravine a great searchlight that has lit up the -rock walls and strewn the wet grass beneath with sparkling jewels. On -the opposite side there is a dense blue shadow over everything except -the foliage on the brow of the cliffs, where the strong autumn colours -leap into a flaming glory that transforms the ravine into an astonishing -splendour. A little more careful scrambling by the side of the stream, -and - -[Illustration: HARDRAW FORCE - -THIS fall of water on a tributary of the Ure is generally considered to -be the finest in Yorkshire. The water comes over a lip of overhanging -rock, and drops sheer into a pool 80 feet below. It is a most romantic -spot at all times, but it is seen at its best after a heavy rainfall. It -is possible to walk behind the fall on a slippery spray-drenched -path.] - -we see a white band of water falling from the overhanging limestone into -the pool about ninety feet below. Off the surface of the water drifts a -mist of spray, in which a soft patch of rainbow hovers until the sun -withdraws itself for a time and leaves a sudden gloom in the horseshoe -of overhanging cliffs. The place is, perhaps, more in sympathy with a -cloudy sky, but, under sunshine or cloud, the spout of water is a -memorable sight, and its imposing height places Hardraw among the small -group of England’s finest waterfalls. Everyone, however, realizes the -disappointment so often experienced in visiting such sights in dry -weather, and the water at Hardraw sometimes shrinks to a mere trickle, -leaving only the rock chasm to tell the traveller what can happen in -really wet weather. The beck that takes this prodigious leap rises on -Great Shunnor Fell, and if that mountain has received the attentions of -some low clouds during the night, there is generally a gushing stream of -water pouring over the projecting lip of hard limestone. The shale that -lies beneath this stratum is soft enough to be worked away by the water -until the limestone overhangs the pool to the extent of ten or twelve -feet, so that the water falls sheer into the circular basin, leaving a -space between the cliff and the fall where it is safe to walk on a -rather moist and slippery path that is constantly being sprayed from the -surface of the pool. - -In hard winters, such as that of 1881, the waters freeze up into a great -mass of ice, through which the fall makes its way by keeping an open -pipe down the centre. It is recorded that in the winter of 1739-40 the -fall began to freeze at the top and bottom, and that it eventually met, -making ‘one hollow column which was seventy-two yards and three-quarters -in circumference.’ - -As we turn away from the roar of the waters the sun comes through the -clouds once more and illuminates the glen with such a generous light -that we long to be in the open again, so that we may see all the play of -the sweeping shadows along the slopes of Wensleydale. As we cross the -Ure we have a view of the wet roofs of Hawes shining in dazzling light. -The modern church-tower, with a pinnacle at one corner only, stands out -conspicuously, but the little town looks uninteresting, although it does -not spoil the views of the head of the dale. The street is wide and -long, and would be very dull but for the splendid surroundings which the -houses cannot quite shut out. As we are here for pleasure, and not to -make an examination of every place in the dale country, we will hurry -out of the town at once, making our way southwards to the little hamlet -of Gayle, where old stone cottages are scattered on each side of the -Duerley Beck. Dodd Fell, where the beck has its source, is mantled by a -cloud that is condensing into rain with such rapidity that, if we wait -on the bridge for a time, we shall be able to see the already swollen -waters rise still higher as they come foaming over the broad cascades. -The stream has much the colour of ale, and the creamy foam adds to the -effect so much that one might imagine that some big brew-house had -collapsed and added the contents of its vats to the stream. But we have -only to realize that, as upper Wensleydale produces no corn and no hops, -breweries could scarcely exist. When Leland wrote, nearly four hundred -years ago, he said: ‘_Uredale_ veri litle Corne except Bygg or Otes, but -plentiful of Gresse in Communes,’ so that, although this dale is so much -more genial in aspect, and so much wider than the valley of the Swale, -yet crops are under the same disabilities. Leaving Gayle behind, we -climb up a steep and stony road above the beck until we are soon above -the level of green pasturage. The stone walls still cover the hillsides -with a net of very large mesh, but the sheep find more bent than grass, -and the ground is often exceedingly steep. Higher still climbs this -venturesome road, until all around us is a vast tumble of gaunt brown -fells, divided by ravines whose sides are scarred with runnels of water, -which have exposed the rocks and left miniature screes down below. At a -height of nearly 1,600 feet there is a gate, where we will turn away -from the road that goes on past Dodd Fell into Langstrothdale, and -instead climb a smooth grass track sprinkled with half-buried rocks -until we have reached the summit of Wether Fell, 400 feet higher. There -is a scanty growth of ling upon the top of this height, but the hills -that lie about on every side are browny-green or of an ochre colour, and -there is little of the purple one sees in the Cleveland Hills. - -The cultivated level of Wensleydale is quite hidden from view, so that -we look over a vast panorama of mountains extending in the west as far -as the blue fells of Lakeland. I have painted the westward view from -this very summit, so that any written description is hardly needed; but -behind us, as we face the scene illustrated here, there is a wonderful -expanse that includes the - -[Illustration: A RUGGED VIEW ABOVE WENSLEYDALE - -THE picture shows the mountains to the north-west of Wether Fell (2,015 -feet), the heathery summit of which appears in the foreground. Hawes -lies to the right, hidden by the steep sides of the dale.] - -heights of Addlebrough, Stake Fell, and Penhil Beacon, which stand out -boldly on the southern side of Wensleydale. I have seen these hills -lightly covered with snow, but that can give scarcely the smallest -suggestion of the scene that was witnessed after the remarkable -snowstorm of January, 1895, which blocked the roads between Wensleydale -and Swaledale until nearly the middle of March. Roads were cut out, with -walls of snow on either side from 10 to 15 feet in height, but the wind -and fresh falls almost obliterated the passages soon after they had been -cut. In Langstrothdale Mr. Speight tells of the extraordinary -difficulties of the dalesfolk in the farms and cottages, who were faced -with starvation owing to the difficulty of getting in provisions. They -cut ways through the drifts as high as themselves in the direction of -the likeliest places to obtain food, while in Swaledale they built -sledges. It is difficult to imagine such scenes after a hot climb on a -warm afternoon, even though great white masses of cumulus are lying in -serried ridges near the horizon; but, having seen the Lake District -under a thick mantle of snow from the top of Helvellyn, I have some idea -of the scene in Wensleydale after that stupendous fall. - -When we have left the highest part of Wether Fell, we find the track -taking a perfectly straight line between stone walls. The straightness -is so unusual that there can be little doubt that it is a survival of -one of the Roman ways connecting their station on Brough Hill, just -above the village of Bainbridge, with some place to the south-west. The -track goes right over Cam Fell, and is known as the Old Cam Road, but I -cannot recommend it for any but pedestrians. When we have descended only -a short distance, there is a sudden view of Semmerwater, the only piece -of water in Yorkshire that really deserves to be called a lake. It is a -pleasant surprise to discover this placid patch of blue lying among the -hills, and partially hidden by a fellside in such a way that its area -might be far greater than 105 acres. Those who know Turner’s painting of -this lake would be disappointed, no doubt, if they saw it first from -this height. The picture was made at the edge of the water with the -Carlow Stone in the foreground, and over the mountains on the southern -shore appears a sky that would make the dullest potato-field thrilling. - -A short distance lower down, by straying a little from the road, we get -a really imposing view of Bardale, into which the ground falls suddenly -from our very feet. Sheep scamper nimbly down their convenient little -tracks, but there are places where water that overflows from the pools -among the bent and ling has made blue-gray seams and wrinkles in the -steep places that give no foothold even to the toughest sheep. Raydale -and Cragdale also send down becks that join with Bardale Beck just -before they enter Semmerwater. Just now the three glens are particularly -imposing, for some of the big clouds that have been sweeping across the -heavens all day are massing themselves on the edges of the heights, and -by eclipsing themselves have assumed an angry indigo hue that makes the -scene almost Scottish. - -Perhaps it is because Yorkshire folk are so unused to the sight of lakes -that both Semmerwater and Gormire, near Thirsk, have similar legends -connected with their miraculous origin. Where the water now covers the -land, says the story, there used to stand a small town, and to it there -once came an angel disguised as a poor and ill-clad beggar. The old man -slowly made his way along the street from one house to another asking -for food, but at each door he met with the same blank refusal. He went -on, therefore, until he came to a poor little cottage outside the town. -Although the couple who lived there were almost as old and as poor as -himself, the beggar asked for something to eat as he had done at the -other houses. The old folk at once asked him in, and, giving him bread, -milk, and cheese, urged him to pass the night under their roof. Then in -the morning, when the old man was about to take his departure, came the -awful doom upon the inhospitable town, for the beggar held up his hands, -and said: - - ‘Semmerwater, rise! Semerwater, sink! - And swallow the town, all save this house, - Where they gave me meat and drink.’ - -Of course, the waters obeyed the disguised angel; and, for proof, have -we not the existence of the lake, and is there not also pointed out an -ancient little cottage standing alone at the lower end of the lake? - -We lose sight of Semmerwater behind the ridge that forms one side of the -branch dale in which it lies, but in exchange we get beautiful views of -the sweeping contours of Wensleydale. High upon the further side of the -valley Askrigg’s gray roofs and pretty church stand out against a steep -fellside; further down we can see Nappa Hall, surrounded by trees, just -above the winding river, and Bainbridge lies close at hand. We soon come -to the broad and cheerful green, surrounded by a picturesque scattering -of old but well preserved cottages; for Bainbridge has sufficient charms -to make it a pleasant inland resort for holiday times that is quite -ideal for those who are content to abandon the sea. The overflow from -Semmerwater, which is called the Bain, fills the village with its music -as it falls over ledges of rock in many cascades along one side of the -green. There is a steep bridge, which is conveniently placed for -watching the waterfalls; there are white geese always drilling on the -grass, and there are still to be seen the upright stones of the stocks. -The pretty inn called the ‘Rose and Crown,’ overlooking a corner of the -green, states upon a board that it was established in 1445. This date at -one time appeared in raised letters upon a stone over the doorway, -which, Mr. Speight tells us, ‘had formerly a good Norman arch.’ Anything -of that period would, of course, carry the origin of the building back -some centuries earlier than the year claimed for the establishment of -the inn. The great age of the village, owing to its existence in Roman -times, as well as the importance it gained through being not only -situated at important cross-roads, but also on the edge of the forest of -Wensleydale, would account for the early establishment of some sort of -hostelry for the entertainment of travellers. Even at the present day a -horn-blowing custom has been preserved at Bainbridge. It takes place at -ten o’clock every night between Holy Rood (September 27) and Shrovetide, -but somehow the reason for the observance has been forgotten. The -medieval regulations as to the carrying of horns by foresters and those -who passed through forests would undoubtedly associate the custom with -early times, and this happy old village certainly gains our respect for -having preserved anything from such a remote period. When we reach -Bolton Castle we shall find in the museum there an old horn from -Bainbridge. - -Besides having the length and breadth of Wensleydale to explore with or -without the assistance of the railway, Bainbridge has as its particular -possession the valley containing Semmerwater, with the three romantic -dales at its head. Counterside, a hamlet perched a little above the -lake, has an old hall, where George Fox stayed in 1677 as a guest of -Richard Robinson. The inn bears the date 1667 and the initials ‘B. H. -J.,’ which may be those of one of the Jacksons, who were Quakers at that -time. - -On the other side of the river, and scarcely more than a mile from -Bainbridge, is the little town of Askrigg, which supplies its neighbour -with a church and a railway-station. There is a charm in its breezy -situation that is ever present, for even when we are in the narrow -little street that curves steeply up the hill there are peeps of the -dale that are quite exhilarating. The square-topped Addlebrough is -separated from us by a great airy space, and looking up and down the -broad dale which widens eastwards and becomes narrower and more rugged -to the west, there appears to be a vastness lying around us which no -plain can suggest. We can see Wether Fell, with the road we traversed -yesterday plainly marked on the slopes, and down below, where the Ure -takes its way through bright pastures, there is a mist of smoke -ascending from Hawes. Blocking up the head of the dale are the spurs of -Dodd and Widdale Fells, while beyond them appears the blue summit of Bow -Fell. We find it hard to keep our eyes away from the distant mountains, -which fascinate one by appearing to have an importance that is perhaps -diminished when they are close at hand. All the big clouds that -yesterday could scarcely hold up their showers for the shortest -intervals have disappeared; perhaps they have now reached the river in -liquid form, and are sparkling in the sunshine that now comes, without -interruption, from their spotless cenotaph. We will follow Shelley’s -metaphor no further, for there is water enough everywhere to fill the -dales with all the roarings and murmurings that the forces and gills can -supply, and we would gladly forget the cloud’s ‘silent laugh’ as it -begins to unbuild the blue dome of heaven. - -We find ourselves halting on a patch of grass by the restored -market-cross to look more closely at a fine old house overlooking the -three-sided space. There is no doubt as to the date of the building, for -a plain inscription begins ‘Gulielmus Thornton posuit hanc domum -MDCLXXVIII.’ The bay windows, as may be seen in the illustration, have -heavy mullions and transoms, and there is a dignity about the house -which must have been still more apparent when the surrounding houses -were lower than at present. The wooden gallery that is constructed -between the bays was, it is said, built as a convenient place for -watching the bull-fights that took place just below. In the grass there -can still be seen the stone to which the bull-ring was secured. The -churchyard runs along the west side of the little market-place, so - -[Illustration: A JACOBEAN HOUSE AT ASKRIGG - -THE village of Askrigg, perched picturesquely on the northern slopes of -Wensleydale, possesses this imposing stone house. It overlooks the open -space by the church, where bull-fights took place in the early part of -last century. The ring is still to be seen in the patch of grass, and -the wooden balcony between the projecting bays of the house was a -favourite position for watching the contests.] - -that there is an open view on that side, made interesting by the -Perpendicular church. The simple square tower and the unbroken -roof-lines are battlemented, like so many of the churches of the dales; -inside we find Norman pillars that are quite in strange company, if it -is true that they were brought from the site of Fors Abbey, a little to -the west of the town. The greater part of the church dates from 1466, -and shortly after this reconstruction of the thirteenth-century building -a chantry in the south aisle, dedicated to St. Anne, was founded by one -of the Metcalfes of Nappa Hall, which we shall pass on our way to -Aysgarth. - -Wensleydale generally used to be famed for its hand-knitting, but I -think Askrigg must have turned out more work than any place in the -valley, for the men as well as the womenfolk were equally skilled in -this employment, and Mr. Whaley says they did their work in the open air -‘while gossiping with their neighbours.’ This statement is, -nevertheless, exceeded by what appears in a volume entitled ‘The Costume -of Yorkshire.’ In that work of 1814, which contains a number of George -Walker’s quaint drawings, reproduced by lithography, we find a picture -having a strong suggestion of Askrigg in which there is a group of old -and young of both sexes seated on the steps of the market-cross, all -knitting, and a little way off a shepherd is seen driving some sheep -through a gate, and he also is knitting. The letterpress describes how a -woman named Slinger, who lived in Cotterdale, used to walk to and from -Hawes Market with her goods on her head, knitting steadily all the way. -Knitting-machines have long since killed this industry, but Askrigg has -somehow survived the loss. Grandfather-clocks are still made in the -little town, as they have been for a great number of years. We have -already noticed an old Askrigg clock at Muker, and if we keep our eyes -open we shall come across others, as well as examples from Leyburn, -Middleham, and other places in the dale that possessed a clock-maker. - -It is interesting to those who wish to get a correct idea of a place -before visiting it to know that they may easily be led astray by even -the best guides. When we read in Murray that Askrigg is a ‘dull little -town of gray houses,’ we are at once predisposed against the place, -although we might know that all the houses in the dales are gray. No -suggestion is given of the splendid situation, and one might imagine -that all the houses, with the exception of the one near the church, are -featureless and quite uninteresting. This, of course, would be a total -misapprehension, for many of the buildings are old, with quaint doorways -and steps, and there are mossy roofs that add colour to the stone, which -is often splashed with orange and pale emerald lichen. In writing of -Hawes, on the other hand, Murray omits to mention the lack of -picturesqueness in its really dull street, merely saying that ‘the town -itself is growing and improving.’ Not content, however, with this -approval of the place, the guide goes still further astray by stating -that the dale in the neighbourhood of Hawes ‘is broad and open, and not -very picturesque’! I cannot help exclaiming at such a statement, -although I may be told that all this is a mere matter of individual -opinion, for is not Wensleydale broad and open from end to end, and is -not Hawes situated in the midst of some of the wildest and noblest fells -in Yorkshire? It is true that the town lies on the level ground by the -river, and thus the views from it do not form themselves into such -natural pictures as they do at Askrigg, but I am inclined to blame the -town rather than the scenery. - -From Askrigg there is a road that climbs up from the end of the little -street at a gradient that looks like 1 in 4, but it is really less -formidable. Considering its steepness the surface is quite good, but -that is due to the industry of a certain roadmender with whom I once had -the privilege to talk when, hot and breathless, I paused to enjoy the -great expanse that lay to the south. He was a fine Saxon type, with a -sunburnt face and equally brown arms. Road-making had been his ideal -when he was a mere boy, and since he had obtained his desire he told me -that he couldn’t be happier if he were the King of England. And his -contentment seemed to me to be based largely upon his intense pleasure -in bringing the roads to as great a perfection as his careful and -thinking labour could compass. He did not approve of steamrollers, for -his experience had taught him that if the stones were broken small -enough they bound together quickly enough. Besides this, he disapproved -of a great camber or curve on the road which induces the traffic to keep -in the middle, leaving a mass of loose stones on either side. The result -of his work may be seen on the highway from Askrigg to Bainbridge, where -a conspicuous smoothness has come to a road that was recently one of -the most indifferent in the district. Perhaps he may eventually be given -the maintenance of the way over the Buttertubs Pass; and if he ever -induces that road to become a little more civilized, this enthusiastic -workman will gain the appreciation of the whole neighbourhood. The road -where we leave him, breaking every large stone he can find, goes on -across a belt of brown moor, and then drops down between gaunt scars -that only just leave space for the winding track to pass through. It -afterwards descends rapidly by the side of a gill, and thus enters -Swaledale. - -There is a beautiful walk from Askrigg to Mill Gill Force. The distance -is scarcely more than half a mile across sloping pastures and through -the curious stiles that appear in the stone walls. So dense is the -growth of trees in the little ravine that one hears the sound of the -waters close at hand without seeing anything but the profusion of -foliage overhanging and growing among the rocks. After climbing down -among the moist ferns and moss-grown stones, the gushing cascades appear -suddenly set in a frame of such lavish beauty that they hold a high -place among their rivals in the dale, and the particular charms of this -spot are hardly surpassed by any others in the whole county. Higher up -there is Whitfield Force, which has a fall of nearly 50 feet. Its -setting, too, among great rock walls and an ancient forest growth, is -most fascinating, especially when one finds that very few go beyond the -greater falls below. - -Keeping to the north side of the river, we come to Nappa Hall at a -distance of a little over a mile to the east of Askrigg. It is now a -farmhouse, but its two battlemented towers proclaim its former -importance as the chief seat of the family of Metcalfe. The date of the -house is about 1459, and the walls of the western tower are 4 feet in -thickness. The Nappa lands came to James Metcalfe from Sir Richard -Scrope of Bolton Castle shortly after his return to England from the -field of Agincourt, and it was probably this James Metcalfe who built -the existing house. We are told something about the matter by Leland, -who says: ‘_Knappey_ in _Yorkshire_, now the chifest House of the -_Metecalfes_, was boute by one _Thomas Metcalfe_, Sunne to _James -Metecalfe_, of one of the Lordes _Scropes_ of _Bolton_.’ He also says -that ‘on it was but a Cotage or litle better House, ontille this -_Thomas_ began ther to build, in the which Building 2 Toures be very -fair, beside other Logginges.’ Mr. Speight thinks that Leland made some -mistake as to the Metcalfe who purchased the estate, and also as to the -builder of the house; and in his account of Nappa the author of -‘Romantic Richmondshire’ has, with the aid of the Metcalfe Records, been -able to correct several inaccuracies which have been written about this -distinguished and numerous family. - -Until the year 1880 there was still kept at Nappa Hall a fine old -four-post bedstead, which was, according to tradition, the one slept in -by Mary Queen of Scots when she is said to have stayed in the house. -Nothing exists, however, to give the slightest colour to this story, but -the bed, now somewhat altered, is still in existence at Newby Hall, near -Ripon. - -The road down the dale passes Woodhall Park, and then, after going down -close to the Ure, it bears away again to the little village of Carperby. -It has a triangular green surrounded by white posts. At the east end -stands an old cross, dated 1674, and the ends of the arms are ornamented -with grotesque carved heads. The cottages have a neat and pleasant -appearance, and there is much less austerity about the place than one -sees higher up the dale. A branch road leads down to Aysgarth Station, -and just where the lane takes a sharp bend to the right a footpath goes -across a smooth meadow to the banks of the Ure. The rainfall of the last -few days, which showed itself at Mill Gill Force, at Hardraw Scar, and a -dozen other falls, has been sufficient to swell the main stream at -Wensleydale into a considerable flood, and behind the bushes that grow -thickly along the river-side we can hear the steady roar of the cascades -of Aysgarth. The waters have worn down the rocky bottom to such an -extent that in order to stand in full view of the splendid fall we must -make for a gap in the foliage, and scramble down some natural steps in -the wall of rock forming low cliffs along each side of the flood. -Although it is still September, the rocks are overhung with the most -brilliant autumn foliage. The morning sunlight coming across a dark -plantation of firs on the southern bank lights up the yellow and red -leaves, and turns the foaming waters into a brilliant white where they -are not under the shadow of the trees. The water comes over three -terraces of solid stone, and then sweeps across wide ledges in a -tempestuous sea of waves and froth, until there come other descents -which alter the course of parts of the stream, so that as we look across -the riotous flood we can - -[Illustration: AYSGARTH FORCE - -THE beautiful river Ure that flows through Wensleydale falls over a -series of rocky ledges close to the village of Aysgarth. The picture -shows the lower series of falls on the morning following a wet -night.] - -see the waters flowing in many opposite directions. Lines of -cream-coloured foam spread out into chains of bubbles which join -together, and then, becoming detached, again float across the smooth -portions of each low terrace. Where the water is smooth and shaded by -the overhanging mass of trees it assumes a dark green-brown colour, and -shows up the chains and necklaces of sportive bubbles which the cascades -produce. I suppose it was because Leland did not see the other great -falls in Wensleydale that he omits any mention of High Force on the Tees -and Hardraw Scar, but yet mentions ‘where _Ure_ Ryver faullethe very -depe betwixt 2 scarry Rokks.’ - -Besides these lower falls, we can see, if we go up the course of the -river towards Aysgarth, a single cascade called the Middle Force, and -from the bridge which spans the river with one great arch we have a -convenient place to watch the highest series of falls. But neither of -these have half the grandeur of the lowest of the series which is -illustrated here. There is a large mill by the bridge, and, ascending -the steep roadway that goes up to the village, we soon reach the pathway -to the church. Perhaps because Aysgarth Force is famous enough to -attract large crowds of sightseers on certain days throughout the -summer, the church is kept locked, and as we wish to see the splendid -Perpendicular screen, saved from the wreck of Jervaulx Abbey, we must -make our way to the Vicarage, and enter the church in the company of a -custodian who watches us with suspicious eyes, fearing, no doubt, that -if he looks away or waits in the churchyard we may feel anxious to leave -our initials on the reading-desk. Apart from the screen, the choir -stalls, and the other woodwork of the choir, there is very little -interest in the church owing to the rebuilding that has taken place, and -left few traces of antiquity beyond suggestions of Early English work in -the tower. There is a short-cut by some footpaths that brings us to -Aysgarth village, which seems altogether to disregard the church, for it -is separated from it by a distance of nearly half a mile. There is one -pleasant little street of old stone houses irregularly disposed, many of -them being quite picturesque, with mossy roofs and ancient chimneys. -This village, like Askrigg and Bainbridge, is ideally situated as a -centre for exploring a very considerable district. There is quite a -network of roads to the south, connecting the villages of Thoralby and -West Burton with Bishop Dale, and the main road through Wensleydale. -Thoralby is very old, and is beautifully situated under a steep -hillside. It has a green overlooked by little gray cottages, and lower -down there is a tall mill with curious windows built upon Bishop Dale -Beck. Close to this mill there nestles a long, low house of that -dignified type to be seen frequently in the North Riding, as well as in -the villages of Westmoreland. The huge chimney, occupying a large -proportion of one gable-end, is suggestive of much cosiness within, and -its many shoulders, by which it tapers towards the top, make it an -interesting feature of the house. The lower part of Bishop Dale is often -singularly beautiful in the evening. If we stop and lean over a gate, we -can see Stake Fell towering above us--an indistinct blue wall with a -sharply-broken edge. Above appears a pale-yellow sky, streaked with -orange-coloured clouds so thin as to look almost like smoke. The intense -silence is broken by the buzz of a swift-flying insect, and then when -that has gone other sounds seem to intensify the stillness. Suddenly a -shrill bellow from a cow echoes through the valley, a sheep-dog barks, -and we can hear the distant cough of cattle, which are quite invisible -in the gathering twilight. A farmer in his cart drives slowly by up the -steep lane, and then the silence becomes more complete than before, and -the fells become blue-black against a sky which is just beginning to be -spangled with the palest of stars. They seem to flicker so much that the -soft evening breeze threatens to blow them out altogether. - -The dale narrows up at its highest point, but the road is enclosed -between gray walls the whole of the way over the head of the valley. A -wide view of Langstrothdale and upper Wharfedale is visible when the -road begins to drop downwards, and to the east Buckden Pike towers up to -his imposing height of 2,302 feet. We shall see him again when we make -our way through Wharfedale, but we could go back to Wensleydale by a -mountain-path that climbs up the side of Cam Gill Beck from Starbottom, -and then, crossing the ridge between Buckden Pike and Tor Mere Top, it -goes down into the wild recesses of Waldendale. So remote is this valley -that wild animals, long extinct in other parts of the dales, survived -there until almost recent times. - -When we have crossed the Ure again, and taken a last look at the Upper -Fall from Aysgarth Bridge, we betake ourselves by a footpath to the main -highway through Wensleydale, turning aside before reaching Redmire in -order to see the great castle of the Scropes at Bolton. It is a vast -quadrangular mass, with each side nearly as gaunt and as lofty as the -others. At each corner rises a great square tower, pierced, with a few -exceptions, by the smallest of windows. Only the base of the tower at -the north-east corner remains to-day, the upper part having fallen one -stormy night in November, 1761, possibly having been weakened during the -siege of the castle in the Civil War. We go into the courtyard through a -vaulted archway on the eastern side. Many of the rooms on the side -facing us are in good preservation, and an apartment in the south-west -tower, which has a fireplace, is pointed out as having been used by Mary -Queen of Scots when she was imprisoned here after the Battle of Langside -in 1568. It was the ninth Lord Scrope who had the custody of the Queen, -and he was assisted by Sir Francis Knollys. Mary, no doubt, found the -time of her imprisonment irksome enough, despite the magnificent views -over the dale which her windows appear to have commanded; but the -monotony was relieved to some extent by the lessons in English which she -received from Sir Francis, whom she describes as ‘her good -schoolmaster.’ While still a prisoner, Mary addressed to him her first -English letter, which begins: ‘Mester Knoleis, I heve sum neus from -Scotland’; and half-way through she begs that he will excuse her -writing, seeing that she had ‘neuur vsed it afor,’ and was ‘hestet.’ The -letter concludes with ‘thus, affter my commendations, I prey God heuu -you in his kipin. Your assured gud frind, MARIE R.’ Then comes a -postscript: ‘Excus my iuel writin thes furst tym’--‘iuel’ being no doubt -intended for ‘evil.’ - -Another relic of the Queen’s captivity at Bolton was a pane of glass, -upon which she had scratched ‘Marie R.’ with a diamond ring; but it was -damaged during the execution of some repairs to the castle, and in -removing the glass for greater security from the castle to Bolton Hall -it was hopelessly smashed. - -The stories of Mary’s attempts at escape have long been considered mere -fabrications, for, despite many intimate details of the months spent at -Bolton, no reference to such matters have been discovered. In the face -of this denial on the part of recorded history, Leyburn Shawl still -holds affectionately to the story that Mary Stuart did leave the castle -unobserved, and that she was overtaken there in the place called the -Queen’s Gap. - -[Illustration: BOLTON CASTLE, WENSLEYDALE - -IN this feudal stronghold Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned for six -months in 1568. She was brought from Carlisle by Lord Scrope, the owner -of Bolton Castle. The building forms a gaunt square, lofty and almost -featureless, except for the broken towers which rise at each of the four -corners. Lord Chancellor Scrope built the castle in the reign of Richard -II., and his descendants occupied it for three centuries.] - -As we leave the grim castle, so full of memories of a great family and -of a lovely Queen, we turn back before it is hidden from our gaze, and -see the towers silhouetted against a golden sky much as it is depicted -in these pages. We think of all the Scropes who have come and gone since -that Lord Richard received license in 1379 to crenellate the fortress he -had built, and we regret again the disappearance of all those sumptuous -tombs that once adorned the choir of Easby Abbey. However, there are -memorials to members of the family in Wensley Church lying a little to -the east beyond the wooded park of Bolton Hall, and we shall arrive -there before long if we keep to the right at the turning beneath the -height known as Scarth Nick. On the opposite side of the dale Penhill -Beacon stands out prominently, with its flat summit reflecting just -enough of the setting sun to recall a momentous occasion when from that -commanding spot a real beacon-fire sent up a great mass of flame and -sparks. It was during the time of Napoleon’s threatened invasion of -England, and the lighting of this beacon was to be the signal to the -volunteers of Wensleydale to muster and march to their rendezvous. The -watchman on Penhill, as he sat by the piled-up brushwood, wondering, no -doubt, what would happen to him if the dreaded invasion were really to -come about, saw, far away across the Vale of Mowbray, a light which he -at once took to be the beacon upon Roseberry Topping. A moment later -tongues of flame and smoke were pouring from his own hilltop, and the -news spread up the dale like wildfire. The volunteers armed themselves -rapidly, and with drums beating they marched away, with only such delay -as was caused by the hurried leave-takings with wives and mothers, and -all the rest who crowded round. The contingent took the road to Thirsk, -and on the way were joined by the Mashamshire men. Whether it was with -relief or disappointment I do not know; but when the volunteers reached -Thirsk they heard that they had been called out by a false alarm, for -the light seen in the direction of Roseberry Topping had been caused by -accident, and the beacon on that height had not been lit. After all, the -scare did no harm, for it showed the mettle of the Dalesmen, and they -were afterwards thanked by Parliament for their prompt response to the -signal. - -On the side of Penhill that looks full towards Bolton Castle there still -remain the foundations of the chapel of the Knight Templars, who must -have established their hospital there soon after 1146, when the Order -was instituted in England. - -Wensley stands just at the point where the dale, to which it has given -its name, becomes so wide that it begins to lose its distinctive -character. The village is most picturesque and secluded, and it is small -enough to cause some wonder as to its distinction in naming the valley. -It is suggested that the name is derived from _Wodenslag_, and that in -the time of the Northmen’s occupation of these parts the place named -after their chief god would be the most important. In its possession of -a pleasant sloping green, dominated by a great elm, round whose base has -been built a circular platform, Wensley is particularly happy. The Ure, -flowing close at hand, is crossed by a fine old bridge, whose pointed -arches must have survived many centuries; for Leland says that it was -built by ‘_Alwine_, Parson of _Wencelaw_,’ ‘200 Yer ago and more,’ that -statement being made about the year 1538. - -In the little church standing on the south side of the green there is so -much to interest us that we are almost unable to decide what to examine -first, until, realizing that we are brought face to face with a -beautiful relic of Easby Abbey, we turn our attention to the parclose -screen. It surrounds the family pew of Bolton Hall, and on three sides -we see the Perpendicular woodwork fitted into the east end of the north -aisle. The side that fronts the nave has an entirely different -appearance, being painted and of a classic order, very lacking in any -ecclesiastical flavour, an impression not lost on those who, with every -excuse, called it ‘the opera box.’ In the panels of the early part of -the screen are carved inscriptions and arms of the Scropes covering a -long period, and, though many words and letters are missing, it is -possible to make them more complete with the help of the record made by -the heralds in 1665. - -On the floor of the chancel is the brass to Sir Simon de Wenselawe, a -priest of the fourteenth century. There is no trace of any inscription, -and the name was only discovered by a reference to the brass in the will -of Oswald Dykes, a rector who died in Jacobean times, and desired that -he might be buried under the stone which now bears his name above the -figure of the priest. This brass is the best in the North Riding, and it -closely resembles the one to Abbot de la Mare in St. Albans Abbey. - -A charming lane, overhung by big trees, runs above the river-banks for -nearly two miles of the way to Middleham; then it joins the road from -Leyburn, and crosses the Ure by a suspension bridge, defended by two -very formidable though modern archways. Climbing up past the church, we -enter the cobbled market-place, which wears a rather decayed appearance -in sympathy with the departed magnificence of the great castle of the -Nevilles. It commands a vast view of Wensleydale from the southern side, -in much the same manner as Bolton does from the north; but the castle -buildings are entirely different, for Middleham consists of a square -Norman keep, very massive and lofty, surrounded at a short distance by a -strong wall and other buildings, also of considerable height, built in -the Decorated period, when the Nevilles were in possession of the -stronghold. The Norman keep dates from the year 1190, when Robert Fitz -Randolph, grandson of Ribald, a brother of the Earl of Richmond, began -to build the Castle. It was, however, in later times, when Middleham had -come to the Nevilles by marriage, that really notable events took place -in this fortress. It was here that Warwick, the ‘King-maker,’ held -Edward IV. prisoner in 1467, and in Part III. of the play of ‘King Henry -VI.,’ Scene V. of the fourth act is laid in a park near Middleham -Castle. Richard III.’s only son, Edward Prince of Wales, was born here -in 1476, the property having come into Richard’s possession by his -marriage with Anne Neville. The tower in which the boy was born is -pointed out to-day, but how the knowledge has been preserved I am quite -unable to say. When he was only eight years old, this little Prince died -in the castle in which he had first seen the light. - -The efforts to blow up the projecting towers of the Norman portion of -the castle are most plainly visible, but the splendid masonry, like that -of Corfe, in the Isle of Purbeck, has held together, although great gaps -have been torn out below, so that one can scarcely understand why the -upper part has not collapsed. The church contains some interesting -details, but they are not very apparent to the uninformed, to whom the -building might appear somewhat dull. All can, however, be interested in -the old cross in the market-place, and also in the Swine Cross in the -upper market, which shows the battered shape of some animal, carved -either in the form of the boar of Richard III. or the bear of Warwick. - -We have already seen Leyburn Shawl from near Wensley, but its charm can -only be appreciated by seeing the view up the dale from its -larch-crowned - -[Illustration: THE VIEW UP WENSLEYDALE FROM LEYBURN SHAWL - -THIS is one of the spots in this beautiful dale that repays a visit a -thousandfold. The effects are best on a clear day, when sunlight and -shadows are chasing one another over the hills and woodlands.] - -termination. Perhaps if we had seen nothing of Wensleydale, and the -wonderful views it offers, we should be more inclined to regard this -somewhat popular spot with greater veneration; but after having explored -both sides of the dale, and seen many views of a very similar character, -we cannot help thinking that the vista is somewhat overrated. Leyburn -itself is a cheerful little town, with a modern church and a very wide -main street which forms a most extensive market-place. There is a -bull-ring still visible in the great open space, but beyond this and the -view from the Shawl Leyburn has few attractions, except its position as -a centre or a starting-place from which to explore the romantic -neighbourhood. - -As we leave Leyburn we get a most beautiful view up Coverdale, with the -two Whernsides standing out most conspicuously at the head of the -valley, and it is this last view of Coverdale, and the great valley from -which it branches, that remains in the mind as one of the finest -pictures of this most remarkable portion of Yorkshire. - - - - -RIPON AND FOUNTAINS ABBEY - - - - -CHAPTER V - -RIPON AND FOUNTAINS ABBEY - - -We have come out of Wensleydale past the ruins of the great Cistercian -abbey of Jervaulx, which Conan, Earl of Richmond, moved from Askrigg to -a kindlier climate, and we have passed through the quiet little town of -Masham, famous for its fair in September, when sometimes as many as -70,000 sheep, including great numbers of the fine Wensleydale breed, are -sold, and now we are at Ripon. It is the largest town we have seen since -we lost sight of Richmond in the wooded recesses of Swaledale, and -though we are still close to the Ure, we are on the very edge of the -dale country, and miss the fells that lie a little to the west. The -evening has settled down to steady rain, and the market-place is running -with water that reflects the lights in the shop-windows and the dark -outline of the obelisk in the centre. This erection is suspiciously -called ‘the Cross,’ and it made its appearance nearly seventy years -before the one at Richmond. Gent says it cost £564 11s. 9d., and that it -is ‘one of the finest in England.’ I could, no doubt, with the smallest -trouble discover a description of the real cross it supplanted, but if -it were anything half as fine as the one at Richmond, I should merely be -moved to say harsh things of John Aislabie, who was Mayor in 1702, when -the obelisk was erected, and therefore I will leave the matter to -others. It is, perhaps, an un-Christian occupation to go about the -country quarrelling with the deeds of recent generations, though I am -always grateful for any traces of the centuries that have gone which -have been allowed to survive. With this thought still before me, I am -startled by a long-drawn-out blast on a horn, and, looking out of my -window, which commands the whole of the market-place, I can see beneath -the light of a lamp an old-fashioned figure wearing a three-cornered -hat. When the last quavering note has come from the great circular horn, -the man walks slowly across the wet cobblestones to the obelisk, where I -watch him wind another blast just like the first, and then another, and -then a third, immediately after which he walks briskly away and -disappears down a turning. In the light of morning I discover that the -horn was blown in front of the Town Hall, whose stucco front bears the -inscription: ‘Except ye Lord keep ye cittie, ye Wakeman waketh in vain.’ -The antique spelling is, of course, unable to give a wrong impression as -to the age of the building, for it shows its period so plainly that one -scarcely needs to be told that it was built in 1801, although it could -not so easily be attributed to the notorious Wyatt. There are still a -few quaint houses to be seen in Ripon, and there clings to the streets a -certain flavour of antiquity. It is the minster, nevertheless, that -raises the ‘city’ above the average Yorkshire town. The west front, with -its twin towers, is to some extent the most memorable portion of the -great church. It is the work of Archbishop Walter Gray, and is a most -beautiful example of the pure Early English style. Inside there is a -good deal of transitional Norman work to be seen. The central tower was -built in this period, but now presents a most remarkable appearance, -owing to its partial reconstruction in Perpendicular times, the arch -that faces the nave having the southern pier higher than the Norman one, -and in the later style, so that the arch is lopsided. As a building in -which to study the growth of English Gothic architecture, I can scarcely -think it possible to find anything better, all the periods being very -clearly represented. The choir has much sumptuous carved woodwork, and -the misereres are full of quaint detail. In the library there is a -collection of very early printed books and other relics of the minster -that add very greatly to the interest of the place. - -The monument to Hugh Ripley, who was the last Wakeman of Ripon and first -Mayor in 1604, is on the north side of the nave facing the entrance to -the crypt, popularly called ‘St. Wilfrid’s Needle.’ A rather difficult -flight of steps goes down to a narrow passage leading into a -cylindrically vaulted cell with niches in the walls. At the north-east -corner is the curious slit or ‘Needle’ that has been thought to have -been used for purposes of trial by ordeal, the innocent person being -able to squeeze through the narrow opening. In reality it is probably -nothing more than an arrangement for lighting two cells with one lamp. -The crypt is of such a plainly Roman type, and is so similar to the one -at Hexham, that it is generally accepted as dating from the early days -of Christianity in Yorkshire, and there can be little doubt that it is a -relic of Wilfrid’s church in those early times. - -At a very convenient distance from Ripon, and - -[Illustration: RIPON MINSTER FROM THE SOUTH - -IN its outline Ripon suggests Westminster, although the west front with -its twin towers is Early English and not classic. Underneath the present -building is the Saxon crypt of Wilfrid’s church, dating from the seventh -century.] - -approached by a pleasant lane, are the lovely glades of Studley Royal, -the noble park containing the ruins of Fountains Abbey. The surroundings -of the great Cistercian monastery are so magnificent, and the roofless -church is so impressively solemn, that, although the place is visited by -many thousands every year, yet, if you choose a day when the weather or -some other circumstances keep other people away, you might easily -imagine that you were visiting the park and ruins as a special -privilege, and not as one of the public who, through Lord Ripon’s -kindness, are allowed to come and go with very few restrictions beyond -the payment of a shilling. - -Just after leaving the lodge there appears on the right a most seductive -glade, overhung by some of the remarkable trees that give the park its -great fascination. The grassy slopes disappear in shadowy green recesses -in the foliage, in much the fashion of the forest scenes depicted in -tapestries. It is just such a background as the Elizabethans would have -loved to fill with the mythological beings that figured so largely in -their polite conversation. Down below the beautifully-kept pathway runs -the Skell, but so transformed from its early character that you would -imagine the crescent-shaped lakes and the strip of smooth water were in -no way connected with the mountain-stream that comes off Dallowgill -Moor. It is particularly charming that the peeps of the water, bordered -by smooth turf that occupies the bottom of the steep and narrow valley, -are only had at intervals through a great hedge of clipped yew. The -paths wind round the densely-wooded slopes, and give a dozen different -views of each mass of trees, each temple, and each bend of the river. At -last, from a considerable height, you have the lovely view of the abbey -ruins illustrated here. At every season its charm is unmistakable, and -even if no stately tower and no roofless arches filled the centre of the -prospect, the scene would be almost as memorable. It is only one of the -many pictures in the park that a retentive memory will hold as some of -the most remarkable in England. - -Among the ruins the turf is kept in perfect order, and it is pleasant -merely to look upon the contrast of the green carpet that is so evenly -laid between the dark stonework. The late-Norman nave, with its solemn -double line of round columns, the extremely graceful arches of the -Chapel of the Nine Altars, and the magnificent vaulted perspective of -the dark cellarium of the lay-brothers, are perhaps the most -fascinating portions of the buildings. I might be well compared with the -last abbot but one, William Thirsk, who resigned his post, foreseeing -the coming Dissolution, and was therefore called ‘a varra fole and a -misereble ideote,’ if I attempted in the short space available to give -any detailed account of the abbey or its wonderful past. I have perhaps -said enough to insist on its charms, and I know that all who endorse my -statements will, after seeing Fountains, read with delight the books -that are devoted to its story. - - - - -KNARESBOROUGH AND HARROGATE - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -KNARESBOROUGH AND HARROGATE - - -It is sometimes said that Knaresborough is an overrated town from the -point of view of its attractiveness to visitors, but this depends very -much upon what we hope to find there. If we expect to find lasting -pleasure in contemplating the Dropping Well, or the pathetic little -exhibition of petrified objects in the Mother Shipton Inn, we may be -prepared for disappointment. It seems strange that the real and lasting -charms of the town should be overshadowed by such popular and -much-advertised ‘sights.’ The first view of the town from the ‘high’ -bridge is so full of romance that if there were nothing else to interest -us in the place we would scarcely be disappointed. The Nidd, flowing -smoothly at the foot of the precipitous heights upon which the church -and the old roofs appear, is spanned by a great stone viaduct. This -might have been so great a blot upon the scene that Knaresborough would -have lost half its charm. Strangely enough, we find just the reverse is -the case, for this railway bridge, with its battlemented parapets and -massive piers, is now so weathered that it has melted into its -surroundings as though it had come into existence as long ago as the -oldest building visible. The old Knaresborough kept well to the heights -adjoining the castle, and even to-day there are only a handful of later -buildings down by the river margin. The view, therefore, is still -unspoiled, and its appearance when the light is coming from the west can -be seen in the illustration given here. - -When we have crossed the bridge, and have passed along a narrow roadway -perched well above the river, we come to one of the many interesting -houses that help to keep alive the old-world flavour of the town. Only a -few years ago the old manor-house had a most picturesque and rather -remarkable exterior, for its plaster walls were covered with a large -black and white chequer-work, and its overhanging eaves and trailing -creepers gave it a charm that has since then been quite lost. The -restoration which recently took place has entirely altered the character -of the exterior, but inside everything - -[Illustration: KNARESBOROUGH - -IS one of the most fortunate of towns in having in its railway bridge a -bold and decorative feature rather than an eyesore. The stranger -scarcely realizes as he stands on the road bridge from which the picture -is taken, that the big battlemented structure spanning the river is a -railway viaduct.] - -has been preserved with just the care that should have been expended -outside as well. There are oak-wainscoted parlours, oak dressers, and -richly-carved fireplaces in the low-ceiled rooms, each one containing -furniture much of the period of the house. Upstairs there is a beautiful -old bedroom lined with oak, like those on the floor below, and its -interest is greatly enhanced by the story of Oliver Cromwell’s residence -in the house, for he is believed to have used this particular bedroom. -Slight alterations have taken place, but the oak bedstead which he is -said to have occupied, minus its tester and with its posts cut down to -half their height, still remains to carry us swiftly back to the last -siege of the castle. A very curious story is told in the _Gentleman’s -Magazine_ of March, 1791. It gives an anecdote of Oliver Cromwell which -Sir John Goodricke used to relate. When he was quite a small boy, he was -told by a very old woman who had formerly attended his mother, Lady -Goodricke, how Oliver Cromwell came to lodge at this house when she was -but a young girl. ‘Having heard so much talk about the man,’ she said, -‘I looked at him with wonder. Being ordered to take a pan of coals and -air his bed, I could not, during the operation, forbear peeping over my -shoulder several times to observe this extraordinary person, who was -seated at the fireside of the room untying his garters. Having aired the -bed, I went out, and, shutting the door after me, stopped and peeped -through the keyhole, when I saw him rise from his feet, advance to the -bed and fall on his knees, in which attitude I left him for some time. -When I returned again I found him still at prayer, and this was his -custom every night so long as he stayed at our house, from which I -concluded he must be a good man, and this opinion I always maintained -afterwards, though I heard him very much blamed and exceedingly abused.’ - -Higher up the hill stands the church with a square central tower -surmounted by a small spike. It still bears the marks of the fire made -by the Scots during their disastrous descent upon Yorkshire after Edward -II.’s defeat at Bannockburn. Led by Sir James Douglas, the Scots poured -into the prosperous plains and even the dales of Yorkshire. They burned -Northallerton and Boroughbridge, and then came on to Knaresborough. When -the town had been captured and burnt, the savage invaders endeavoured to -burn out the inhabitants who had taken refuge in the church-tower, but -the stoutness of the stone walls prevented their efforts to destroy the -building. It is quite possible that the roofs at that time were -thatched, for some years ago much partially-burnt straw was discovered -in the roof. The chapel on the north side of the chancel contains the -interesting monuments of the old Yorkshire family of Slingsby. The -altar-tomb in the centre bears the recumbent effigies of Francis -Slingsby, who died in 1600, and Mary his wife. Another monument shows -Sir William Slingsby, who accidentally discovered the first spring at -Harrogate. The Slingsbys, who were cavaliers, produced a martyr in the -cause of Charles I. This was the distinguished Sir Henry, who, in 1658, -‘being beheaded by order of the tyrant Cromwell, ... was translated to a -better place.’ So says the inscription on a large slab of black marble -in the floor of the chapel. The last of the male line of the family was -Sir Charles Slingsby, who was most unfortunately drowned by the -upsetting of a ferry-boat in the Ure in February, 1869. - -We can wander through the quaint little streets above the church and -find much to interest us, particularly in the market-place, although -quite a number of the really ancient little houses that had come down to -quite recent years have now passed away. On one side of the -market-place stands a most curious little chemist’s shop, with two -small-paned windows, very low and picturesque, that slightly overhang -the footway. There seems to be small doubt that this is the oldest of -all the long-established chemists’ shops that exist in England. It dates -from the year 1720, when John Beckwith started the business, and the -conservatism of the trade is borne out by the preservation of some -interesting survivals of those early Georgian days. There are -strangely-shaped old shop-bottles, mortars, and strips of leather that -were used for quicksilver in the days when it was worn as a charm -against some forms of disease. - -Just above the manor-house there is still to be seen one of the last of -the thatched houses, at one time common in the town. It is the old -Vicarage, and it still contains oak beams and some good panelling. When -we get beyond the market-place, we come out upon an elevated grassy -space upon the top of a great mass of rock whose perpendicular sides -drop down to a bend of the Nidd. Around us are scattered the ruins of -Knaresborough Castle--poor and of small account if we compare them with -Richmond, although the site is very similar; where before the siege in -1644 there must have been a most imposing mass of towers and curtain -walls. Of the great keep, only the lowest story is at all complete, for -above the first-floor there are only two sides to the tower, and these -are battered and dishevelled. The walls enclosed about the same area as -Richmond, but they are now so greatly destroyed that it is not easy to -gain a clear idea of their position. There were no less than eleven -towers, of which there now remain fragments of six, part of a gateway, -and behind the old courthouse there are evidences of a secret cell. An -underground sally-port opening into the moat, which was a dry one, is -reached by steps leading from the castle yard. The passage was opened -out in 1890, and in it were discovered a considerable number of stone -balls, probably used for the ‘balistas’ mentioned in one of the castle -records. It is a dismal fact to remember that, despite the perfect -repair of the castle in the reign of Elizabeth, and the comparatively -small amount of destruction caused during the siege conducted by -Lilburne and Fairfax, Knaresborough’s great fortress was reduced to -piles of ruins as the result of an order of the Council of State not -many years after its capture. Subsequently, as in the case of such -splendid structures as Richard I.’s Château Gaillard, the broken -remains were cheap building stone for the townsfolk, and seeing that in -those days archæological societies had yet to be instituted, who can -blame the townsfolk? - -Lord Lytton gives a story of the siege that we may recall, seeing that -there is so little to vividly bring to mind the scene during the -strenuous defence of the castle by the plucky townsfolk. ‘A youth,’ we -are told, ‘whose father was in the garrison, was accustomed nightly to -get into the deep, dry moat, climb up the glacis, and put provisions -through a hole where the father stood ready to receive them. He was -perceived at length; the soldiers fired on him.’ The poor lad was made -prisoner, and sentenced to be hanged in quite medieval fashion within -sight of the garrison. There was, however, a certain lady who, with -great difficulty, prevented this barbarous order from being carried out, -and when the castle had capitulated and the soldiers had left the boy -was released. - -The keep is in the Decorated style, and appears to have been built in -the reign of Edward II. Below the ground is a vaulted dungeon, dark and -horrible in its hopeless strength, which is only emphasized by the tiny -air-hole that lets in scarcely a glimmering of light, but reveals a -thickness of 15 feet of masonry that must have made a prisoner’s heart -sick. It is generally understood that Bolingbroke spared Richard II. -such confinement as this, and that when he was a prisoner in the keep he -occupied the large room on the floor above the kitchen. It is now a mere -platform, with the walls running up on two sides only. The kitchen -(sometimes called the guard-room) has a perfectly preserved roof of -heavy groining, supported by two pillars, and it contains a collection -of interesting objects, rather difficult to see, owing to the poor light -that the windows allow. The small local guide-book gives us a thrill by -stating that a very antique-looking chest is ‘said to have been the -property of William the Conqueror.’ We hope it was, but long for some -proofs. The spring mantrap is of no great age, and it was in use not -many years ago, when the owner was in the habit of exhibiting it on -market days with a notice upon it to inform the public that every night -he adjusted its deadly jaws in some part of his orchard. There is much -to interest us among the wind-swept ruins and the views into the wooded -depths of the Nidd, and we would rather stay here and trace back the -history of the castle and town to the days of that Norman Serlo de -Burgh, who is the first mentioned in its annals, than go down to the -tripper-worn Dropping Well and the Mother Shipton Inn. - -When we have determined to see what these ‘sights’ have to offer, we -find that the inn is a fairly picturesque one, but with scarcely a -quarter of the interest of the old chemist’s shop we saw in the -market-place. The walk along the river bank among a fine growth of -beeches is pleasant enough, and would be enjoyable if it were not for -the fact that it leads to a ‘sight’ which has to be paid for. Under the -overhanging edge of the limestone crag hang a row of eccentric objects -constantly under the dripping water that trickles down the face of the -rock, which is itself formed entirely by the petrifying action of the -spring some yards away from the river. The water being strongly charged -with lime, everything within its reach, including the row of -‘curiosities’ in course of manufacture, are coated over and finally -reduced to limestone, the process taking about two years. When we have -come away from the well we feel we have seen all the sights we are equal -to, and gladly leave St. Robert’s Chapel and the other caves to be seen -at some more convenient season. The story of Eugene Aram and the murder -of Daniel Clark is a page in the history of Knaresborough that may -perhaps add interest to the town, but it is certainly likely to rob the -place of some of its charm, so without wasting any time on a visit to -the cave where the murdered man’s body was buried, we go out on the road -to Harrogate. - -The distance between the towns is short, and soon after passing Starbeck -we come to Harrogate’s extensive common known as the Stray. We follow -the grassy space, when it takes a sharp turn to the north, and are soon -in the centre of the great watering-place. Among the buildings that rise -up in imposing masses on each side of us we can see no traces of -anything that is not of recent date, and we find nothing at all to -suggest that the place really belongs to Yorkshire. - -Walking or being pulled in bath-chairs along the carefully-made paths -are all sorts and conditions of invalids, and interspersed among them -are numbers of people who, if they have any ailments curable by the -waters, are either in very advanced stages of convalescence or are -extremely expert in hiding any traces of ill-health. - -There is one spot in Harrogate that has a suggestion of the early days -of the town. It is down in the corner where the valley gardens almost -join the extremity of the Stray. There we find the Royal Pump Room that -made its appearance in early Victorian times, and its circular counter -is still crowded every morning by a throng of water-drinkers. We wander -through the hilly streets and gaze at the pretentious hotels, the baths, -the huge Kursaal, the hydropathic establishments, the smart shops, and -the many churches, and then, having seen enough of the buildings, we -find a seat supported by green serpents, from which to watch the -passers-by. A white-haired and withered man, having the stamp of a -military life in his still erect bearing, paces slowly by; then come two -elaborately dressed men of perhaps twenty-five. They wear brown suits -and patent boots, and their bowler hats are pressed down on the backs of -their heads. Then nursemaids with perambulators pass, followed by a lady -in expensive garments, who talks volubly to her two pretty daughters. -When we have tired of the pavements and the people, we bid farewell to -them without much regret, being in a mood for simplicity and solitude, -and go away towards Wharfedale with the pleasant tune that a band was -playing still to remind us for a time of the scenes we have left -behind. - - - - -WHARFEDALE - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -WHARFEDALE - - -Otley is the first place we come to in the long and beautiful valley of -the Wharfe. It is a busy little town where printing machinery is -manufactured and worsted mills appear to thrive. Immediately to the -south rises the steep ridge known as the Chevin. It answers the same -purpose as Leyburn Shawl in giving a great view over the dale; the -elevation of over 900 feet, being much greater than the Shawl, of course -commands a far more extensive panorama, and thus, in clear weather, York -Minster appears on the eastern horizon and the Ingleton Fells on the -west. - -Farnley Hall, on the north side of the Wharfe, is an Elizabethan house -dating from 1581, and it is still further of interest on account of -Turner’s frequent visits, covering a great number of years, and for the -very fine collection of his paintings preserved there. The oak-panelling -and coeval furniture are particularly good, and among the historical -relics there is a remarkable memento of Marston Moor in the sword that -Cromwell carried during the battle. - -A few miles higher up the dale stands the big ‘hydropathic,’ and the -station of Ben Rhydding. The name sounds very Scottish, and the man who -started the establishment came from beyond the Border. He found that the -site he had selected was marked in the Ordnance maps as a ‘bean -rhydding,’ or fallow land, so he decided to drop the ‘a’ in ‘bean,’ and -in that way get a good Scottish flavour into the name, and now its -origin is being quite forgotten. Only a short distance beyond is the -considerable town of Ilkley, where hotels and vast hydropathic -establishments flourish exceedingly, and villas are constantly adding to -the size of the place, which had a population of only 500 half a century -ago. Ilkley has an old well-house, where the water’s purity is its chief -attraction. The church contains a thirteenth-century effigy of Sir -Andrew de Middleton, and also three pre-Norman crosses without arms. On -the heights to the south of Ilkley is Rumbles Moor, and from the Cow and -Calf rocks there is a very fine view. Ilkley is particularly well -situated for walks up the dales and over the moors, as a glance at the -map at the end of this volume will show. - -About six miles still further up Wharfedale Bolton Abbey stands by a -bend of the beautiful river. The ruins are most picturesquely placed on -ground slightly raised above the banks of the Wharfe. Of the domestic -buildings practically nothing remains, while the choir of the church, -the central tower, and north transepts are roofless and extremely -beautiful ruins. The nave is roofed in, and is used as a church at the -present time, and it is probable that services have been held in the -building practically without any interruption for 700 years. Hiding the -Early English west end is the lower half of a fine Perpendicular tower, -commenced by Richard Moone, the last Prior. Followers of Ruskin speak of -this as a disfigurement, and I imagine that they also despise the tower -of Fountains Abbey because it belongs to the same period. The taste -displayed in the architecture and decoration of Brantwood does not -encourage me to accept Ruskin’s pronouncements on the latest phase of -Gothic development, and I need only point to the splendid western towers -of Beverley Minster in support of my intense admiration for the dispised -Perpendicular style. - -The great east window of the choir has lost its tracery, and the -Decorated windows at the sides are in the same vacant state, with the -exception of the one that appears in the illustration given here. It is -blocked up to half its height, like those on the north side, but the -flamboyant tracery of the head is perfect and very graceful. Lower down -there is some late-Norman interlaced arcading resting on carved corbels. - -There is something singularly attractive in the views of the woods that -overhang the river when we see them framed by the great stone arches and -fluted piers. We can hear the rich notes of a blackbird, and the gentle -rush of the river where it washes the stony beach close at hand, and -there is present that wonderful silence that broods over ruined -monasteries. - -From the abbey we can take our way by various beautiful paths to the -exceedingly rich scenery of Bolton woods. Some of the reaches of the -Wharfe through this deep and heavily-timbered part of its course are -really enchanting, and not even the knowledge that excursion parties -frequently traverse the paths can rob the views of their charm. It is -always possible, by taking a little trouble, to choose occasions for -seeing these - -[Illustration: BOLTON ABBEY, WHARFEDALE - -FROM under the arches of the central tower one is looking out over the -course of the river Wharfe. The abbey was founded in the twelfth century -for monks of the Order of St. Augustine.] - -beautiful but very popular places when they are unspoiled by the sights -and sounds of holiday-makers, and in the autumn, when the woods have an -almost undreamed-of brilliance, the walks and drives are generally left -to the birds and the rabbits. At the Strid the river, except in -flood-times, is confined to a deep channel through the rocks, in places -scarcely more than a yard in width. It is one of those spots that -accumulate stories and legends of the individuals who have lost their -lives, or saved them, by endeavouring to leap the narrow channel. That -several people have been drowned here is painfully true, for the -temptation to try the seemingly easy but very risky jump is more than -many can resist. - -Higher up, the river is crossed by the three arches of Barden Bridge, a -fine old structure bearing the inscription: ‘This bridge was repayred at -the charge of the whole West R ... 1676.’ To the south of the bridge -stands the picturesque Tudor house called Barden Tower, which was at one -time a keeper’s lodge in the manorial forest of Wharfedale. It was -enlarged by the tenth Lord Clifford--the ‘Shepherd Lord’ whose strange -life-story is mentioned in the next chapter in connection with -Skipton--but having become ruinous, it was repaired in 1658 by that -indefatigable restorer of the family castles, the Lady Anne Clifford. - -At this point there is a road across the moors to Pateley Bridge, in -Nidderdale, and if we wish to explore that valley, which is now -partially filled with a lake formed by the damming of the Nidd for -Bradford’s water-supply, we must leave the Wharfe at Barden. If we keep -to the more beautiful dale we go on through the pretty village of -Burnsall to Grassington, where a branch railway has recently made its -appearance from Skipton. - -The dale from this point appears more and more wild, and the fells -become gaunt and bare, with scars often fringing the heights on either -side. We keep to the east side of the river, and soon after having a -good view up Littondale, a beautiful branch valley, we come to -Kettlewell. This tidy and cheerful village stands at the foot of Great -Whernside, one of the twin fells that we saw overlooking the head of -Coverdale when we were at Middleham. Its comfortable little inns make -Kettlewell a very fine centre for rambles in the wild dales that run up -towards the head of Wharfedale. - -Buckden is a small village situated at the - -[Illustration: HUBBERHOLME CHURCH - -IS one of the quaintest in Yorkshire. It has Norman features, but dates -chiefly from the thirteenth century. The situation on the banks of the -Wharfe in Langstrothdale Chase is most beautiful.] - -junction of the road from Aysgarth, and it has the beautiful scenery of -Langstrothdale Chase stretching away to the west. About a mile higher up -the dale we come to the curious old church of Hubberholme standing close -to the river, and forming a most attractive picture in conjunction with -the bridge and the masses of trees just beyond. At Raisgill we leave the -road, which, if continued, would take us over the moors by Dodd Fell, -and then down to Hawes. The track goes across Horse Head Moor, and it is -so very slightly marked on the bent that we only follow it with -difficulty. It is steep in places, for in a short distance it climbs up -to nearly 2,000 feet. The tawny hollows in the fell-sides, and the utter -wildness spread all around, are more impressive when we are right away -from anything that can even be called a path. The sheep just remind us -of the civilization that endeavours to make what use it can of these -desolate places, and when none are in sight we are left alone with the -sky and the heaving brown hills. - -When we reach the highest point before the rapid descent into Littondale -we have another great view, with Pen-y-ghent close at hand and Fountains -Fell more to the south. At the bottom of the dale flows the Skirfare, -and we follow it past the gray old village of Litton down to Arncliffe, -where there is a nice inn by such a pleasant green that we are tempted -to stay there rather than hurry on to Skipton. - - - - -SKIPTON, MALHAM AND GORDALE - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -SKIPTON, MALHAM AND GORDALE - - -When I think of Skipton I am never quite sure whether to look upon it as -a manufacturing centre or as one of the picturesque market towns of the -dale country. If you arrive by train, you come out of the station upon -such vast cotton-mills, and such a strong flavour of the bustling -activity of the southern parts of Yorkshire, that you might easily -imagine that the capital of Craven has no part in any holiday-making -portion of the county. But if you come by road from Bolton Abbey, you -enter the place at a considerable height, and, passing round the margin -of the wooded Haw Beck, you have a fine view of the castle, as well as -the church and the broad and not unpleasing market-place. Beyond these -appear the chimneys and the smoke of the manufacturing and railway side -of the town, almost entirely separate from the old world and historic -portion on the higher ground. When you are on the castle ramparts the -factories appear much less formidable--in fact, they seem to shrink into -quite a small area owing to the great bare hills that rise up on all -sides. - -On this sunny morning, as we make our way towards the castle, we find -the attractive side of Skipton entirely unspoiled by any false -impression given by the factories. The smoke which the chimneys make -appears in the form of a thin white mist against the brown moors beyond, -and everything is very clean and very bright after heavy rain. The -gateway of the castle is flanked by two squat towers. They are circular -and battlemented, and between them upon a parapet, which is higher than -the towers themselves, appears the motto of the Cliffords, ‘Desormais’ -(hereafter), in open stone letters. Beyond the gateway stands a great -mass of buildings with two large round towers just in front; to the -right, across a sloping lawn, appears the more modern and inhabited -portion of the castle. The squat round towers gain all our attention, -but as we pass through the doorways into the courtyard beyond, we are -scarcely prepared for the astonishingly beautiful quadrangle that awaits -us. It is small, and the centre is occupied by a great yew-tree, whose -tall, purply-red trunk goes up to - -[Illustration: THE COURTYARD OF SKIPTON CASTLE - -THE buildings of this portion of the castle, although in such good -preservation, are not occupied.] - -the level of the roofs without any branches or even twigs, but at that -height it spreads out freely into a feathery canopy of dark green, -covering almost the whole of the square of sky visible from the -courtyard. The base of the trunk is surrounded by a massive stone seat, -with plain shields on each side. The sunlight that comes through this -green network is very much subdued when it falls upon walls and the -pavement, which becomes strewn over with circular splashes of whiteness. -The masonry of the walls on every side, where not showing the original -red of the sandstone, has been weathered into beautiful emerald tints, -and to a height of two or three feet there is a considerable growth of -moss on the worn mouldings. The general appearance of the courtyard -suggests more that of a manor-house than a castle, the windows and -doorways being purely Tudor. The circular towers and other portions of -the walls belong to the time of Edward II., and there is also a -roundheaded door that cannot be later than the time of Robert de -Romillé, one of the Conqueror’s followers. The rooms that overlook the -shady quadrangle are very much decayed and entirely unoccupied. They -include an old dining-hall of much picturesqueness, kitchens, pantries, -and butteries, some of them only lighted by narrow windows on the outer -faces of the wall. There are many large bedrooms and other dark -apartments in the towers. Only a little restoration would be required to -put a great portion of these into habitable condition, for they are -structurally in a good state of repair, as may be seen to some extent -from the picture of the courtyard reproduced here. The destruction -caused during the siege which took place during the Civil War might have -brought Skipton Castle to much the same condition as Knaresborough but -for the wealth and energy of that remarkable woman Lady Anne Clifford, -who was born here in 1589. She was the only surviving child of George, -the third Earl of Cumberland, and grew up under the care of her mother, -Margaret, Countess of Cumberland, of whom Lady Anne used to speak as ‘my -blessed mother.’ Her reverence for the memory of this admirable parent -is also shown in the feeling which prompted her to put up a pillar by -the roadside, between Penrith and Appleby, to commemorate their last -meeting, and, besides this, the Lady Anne left a sum of money to be -given to the poor at that spot on a certain day every year. After her -first marriage with Richard Sackville, Earl of Dorset, Lady Anne -married the profligate Philip, Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery. She was -widowed a second time in 1649, and after that began the period of her -munificence and usefulness. With immense enthusiasm, she undertook the -work of repairing the castles that belonged to her family, Brougham, -Appleby, Barden Tower, and Pendragon being restored as well as Skipton. -We can see in the towers where the later work begins, and the custodian -who shows us through the apartments points out many details which are -invisible without the aid of his candle. - -Besides attending to the decayed castles, the Countess repaired no less -than seven churches, and to her we owe the careful restoration of the -parish church of Skipton. She began the repairs to the sacred building -even before she turned her attention to the wants of the castle. In her -private memorials we read how, ‘In the summer of 1665 ... at her own -charge, she caus’d the steeple of Skipton Church to be built up againe, -which was pull’d down in the time of the late Warrs, and leaded it over, -and then repaired some part of the Church and new glaz’d the Windows, in -every of which Window she put quaries, stained with a yellow colour, -these two letters--viz., A. P., and under them the year 1655.... -Besides, she raised up a noble Tomb of Black Marble in memory of her -Warlike Father.’ This magnificent altar-tomb still stands within the -Communion rails on the south side of the chancel. It is adorned with -seventeen shields, and Whitaker doubted ‘whether so great an assemblage -of noble bearings can be found on the tomb of any other Englishman.’ -This third Earl was a notable figure in the reign of Elizabeth, and -having for a time been a great favourite with the Queen, he received -many of the posts of honour she loved to bestow. He was a skilful and -daring sailor, helping to defeat the Spanish Armada, and building at his -own expense one of the greatest fighting ships of his time, -Elizabeth--who, like the present German Emperor, never lost an -opportunity of fostering the growth of her navy--being present at the -launching ceremony. - -The memorials of Lady Anne give a description of her appearance in the -manner of that time: ‘The colour of her eyes was black like her -Father’s,’ we are told, ‘with a peak of hair on her forehead, and a -dimple in her chin, like her father. The hair of her head was brown and -very thick, and so long that it reached to the calf of her legs when -she stood upright; and when she caused these memorials of herself to be -written (she had passed the year 63 of her age), she said _the -perfections of her mind were much above those of her body_; she had a -strong and copious memory, a sound judgment, and a discerning spirit, -and so much of a strong imagination in her as that at many times even -her dreams and apprehensions beforehand proved true.’ The Countess died -at the great age of eighty-seven at Brougham Castle in Westmoreland, and -was buried in the Church of St. Lawrence at Appleby. - -We cannot leave these old towers of Skipton Castle without going back to -the days of John, the ninth Lord Clifford, that ‘Bloody Clifford’ who -was one of the leaders of the Lancastrians at Wakefield, where his -merciless slaughter earned him the title of ‘the Butcher.’ He died by a -chance arrow the night before the Battle of Towton, so fatal to the -cause of Lancaster, and Lady Clifford and the children took refuge in -her father’s castle at Brough. For greater safety Henry, the heir, was -placed under the care of a shepherd whose wife had nursed the boy’s -mother when a child. In this way the future baron grew up as an entirely -uneducated shepherd lad, spending his days on the fells in the -primitive fashion of the peasants of the fifteenth century. When he was -about twelve years old Lady Clifford, hearing rumours that the -whereabouts of her children had become known, sent the shepherd and his -wife with the boy into an extremely inaccessible part of Cumberland. He -remained there until his thirty-second year, when the Battle of Bosworth -placed Henry VII. on the throne. Then the shepherd lord was brought to -Londesborough, and when the family estates had been restored, he went -back to Skipton Castle. The strangeness of his new life being irksome to -him, Lord Clifford spent most of his time in Barden Forest at one of the -keeper’s lodges, which he adapted for his own use. There he hunted and -studied astronomy and astrology with the canons of Bolton. - -At Flodden Field he led the men-at-arms from Craven, and showed that by -his life of extreme simplicity he had in no way diminished the -traditional valour of the Cliffords. When he died they buried him at -Bolton Abbey, where many of his ancestors lay, and as his successor died -after the dissolution of the monasteries, the ‘Shepherd Lord’ was the -last to be buried in that secluded spot by the Wharfe. - -Skipton has always been a central spot for the exploration of this -southern portion of the dales, and since the Midland Railway has lately -put out an arm to the north, there are lines going in five directions. -The new branch that goes into Wharfedale stops just before it reaches -Grassington, and has an intermediate station with a triple name in -consideration of the fact that it is placed at almost exactly the same -distance from the three villages of Hetton, Rylstone, and Cracoe. -Whether we go by road or rail, we have good views of Flasby and Rylstone -Fells as we pass along the course of Eller Beck to the romantically -situated village made famous by Wordsworth’s ballad of ‘The White Doe of -Rylstone.’ The site of the old manor-house where the Nortons lived may -still be seen in a field to the east of the church. Owing to the part -they took in the Rising of the North in 1569 the Nortons lost all their -property in Yorkshire, and among the humble folk of Rylstone who shared -in the rebellion there was Richard Kitchen, Mr. Norton’s butler, who -lost much more, for he was executed at Ripon. From Hetton we follow a -road to the west, and passing the hamlet of Winterburn, come to Airton, -where there are some interesting old houses, one of them dating from -the year of the Great Fire of London. Turning to the north, we come to -Kirby Malham, less than two miles off. It is a pretty little village -with green limestone hills rising on all sides; a rushing beck coming -off Kirby Fell takes its way past the church, and there is an old -vicarage as well as some picturesque cottages. - -We find our way to a decayed lych-gate, whose stones are very black and -moss-grown, and then get a close view of the Perpendicular church. The -interior is full of interest, not only on account of the Norman font and -the canopied niches in the pillars of the nave, but also for the old -pews. The Malham people seemingly found great delight in recording their -names on the woodwork of the pews, for carefully carved initials and -dates appear very frequently. All the pews have been cut down to the -accepted height of the present day with the exception of some on the -north side which were occupied by the more important families, and these -still retain their squareness and the high balustrades above the -panelled lower portions. One of the parish registers has the rare -distinction of containing Oliver Cromwell’s signature to a marriage. -There is also the entry of the baptism on November 7, 1619, of John -Lambert, who became famous as Major-General in the Roundhead army. - -Just under the moorland heights surrounding Malham Tarn is the other -village of Malham. It is a charming spot, even in the gloom of a wintry -afternoon. The houses look on to a strip of uneven green, cut in two, -lengthways, by the Aire. We go across the clear and sparkling waters by -a rough stone footbridge, and, making our way past a farm, find -ourselves in a few minutes at Gordale Bridge. Here we abandon the -switchback lane, and, climbing a wall, begin to make our way along the -side of the beck. The fells drop down fairly sharply on each side, and -in the failing light there seems no object in following the stream any -further, when quite suddenly the green slope on the right stands out -from a scarred wall of rock beyond, and when we are abreast of the -opening we find ourselves before a vast fissure that leads right into -the heart of the fell. The great split is S-shaped in plan, so that when -we advance into its yawning mouth we are surrounded by limestone cliffs -more than 300 feet high. If one visits Gordale Scar for the first time -alone on a gloomy evening, as I have done, I can promise the most -thrilling sensations to those who have yet to see this astonishing -sight. It almost appeared to me as though I were dreaming, and that I -was Aladin approaching the magician’s palace. I had read some of the -eighteenth-century writers’ descriptions of the place, and imagined that -their vivid accounts of the terror inspired by the overhanging rocks -were mere exaggerations, but now I sympathize with every word. The scars -overhang so much on the east side that there is not much space to get -out of reach of the water that drips from every portion. Great masses of -stone were lying upon the bright strip of turf, and among them I noticed -some that could not have been there long; this made me keep close under -the cliff in justifiable fear of another fall. I stared with -apprehension at one rock that would not only kill, but completely bury, -anyone upon whom it fell, and I thought those old writers had underrated -the horrors of the place. Through a natural arch in the rocks that faced -me came a foaming torrent broken up below into a series of cascades, and -the roar of the waters in the confined space added much to the fear that -was taking possession of me. It was owing to the curious habit that -waterfalls have of seeming to become suddenly louder that I must own to -that sense of fearfulness, for at one moment the noise - -[Illustration: GORDALE SCAR - -THIS is one of the most astonishing sights in Yorkshire. The gorge is a -result of the Craven Fault--a geological dislocation that has also made -the huge cliffs of Malham Cove. The stream is the Aire. It can be seen -coming through a natural arch high up among the rocks.] - -sounded so suddenly different that I was convinced that a considerable -fall of stones had commenced among the crags overhead, and that in a -moment they would crash into the narrow cleft. Common-sense seemed to -urge an immediate retreat, for there was too much water coming down the -falls to allow me to climb out that way, as I could otherwise have done. -The desire to carry away some sort of picture of the fearsome place was, -however, triumphant, and the result is given in this chapter. - -Wordsworth writes of - - ‘Gordale chasm, terrific as the lair - Where the young lions couch,’ - -and he also describes it as one of the grandest objects in nature. - -A further result of the Craven fault that produced Gordale Scar can be -seen at Malham Cove, about a mile away. There the cliff forms a curved -front 285 feet high, facing the open meadows down below. The limestone -is formed in layers of great thickness, dividing the face of the cliff -into three fairly equal sections, the ledges formed at the commencement -of each stratum allowing of the growth of bushes and small trees. A -hard-pressed fox is said to have taken refuge on one of these -precarious ledges, and finding his way stopped in front, he tried to -turn, and in doing so fell and was killed. - -At the base of the perpendicular face of the cliff the Aire flows from a -very slightly arched recess in the rock. It is a really remarkable -stream in making its début without the slightest fuss, for it is large -enough at its very birth to be called a small river. Its modesty is a -great loss to Yorkshire, for if, instead of gathering strength in the -hidden places in the limestone fells, it were to keep to more rational -methods, it would flow to the edge of the Cove, and there precipitate -itself in majestic fashion into a great pool below. There is some reason -for believing that on certain occasions in the past the stream has taken -the more showy course, and if sufficient cement could be introduced into -some of the larger fissures above, a fall might be induced to occur -after every period of heavy rain. All the romance would perhaps -disappear if we knew that the effect was artificial, and therefore we -would no doubt be wiser to remain content with the Cove as it is. - - - - -SETTLE AND THE INGLETON FELLS - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -SETTLE AND THE INGLETON FELLS - - -The track across the moor from Malham Cove to Settle cannot be -recommended to anyone at night, owing to the extreme difficulty of -keeping to the path without a very great familiarity with every yard of -the way, so that when I merely suggested taking that route one wintry -night the villagers protested vigorously. I therefore took the road that -goes up from Kirby Malham, having borrowed a large hurricane lamp from -the ‘Buck’ Inn at Malham. Long before I reached the open moor I was -enveloped in a mist that would have made the track quite invisible even -where it was most plainly marked, and I blessed the good folk at Malham -who had advised me to take the road rather than run the risks of the -pot-holes that are a feature of the limestone fells. This moor is on the -range of watersheds of Northern England, for it sends streams east and -west that find their way into the Irish Sea and German Ocean. - -With the swinging lantern throwing vast shadows of my own figure upon -the mist, and the stony road under my feet, I at length dropped down the -steep descent into Settle, having seen no human being on the road since -I left Kirby Malham. Even Settle was almost as lonely, for I had nearly -reached a building called The Folly, which is near the middle of the -town, before I met the first inhabitant. - -In the morning I discovered that The Folly was the most notable house in -the town, for its long stone front dates from the time of Charles II., -and it is a very fine example of the most elaborate treatment of a house -of that size and period to be found in the Craven district. Settle has a -most distinctive feature in the possession of Castleberg, a steep -limestone hill, densely wooded except at the very top, that rises -sharply just behind the market-place. Before the trees were planted -there seems to have been a sundial on the side of the hill, the -precipitous scar on the top forming the gnomon. No one remembers this -curious feature, although a print showing the numbers fixed upon the -slope was published in 1778. The market-place has lost its curious old -tollbooth, and in its place stands a town hall of good Tudor design. -Departed also is much of the charm of the old Shambles that occupy a - -[Illustration: SETTLE - -THIS grey old town in Ribblesdale is one of the quaintest in this part -of Yorkshire.] - -central position in the square. The lower story, with big arches forming -a sort of piazza in front of the butcher’s and other shops, still -remains in its old state, but the upper portion has been restored in the -fullest sense of that comprehensive term. - -In the steep street that we came down on entering the town there may -still be seen a curious old tower, which seems to have forgotten its -original purpose. Some of the houses have carved stone lintels to their -doorways and seventeenth-century dates, while the stone figure on ‘The -Naked Man’ Inn, although bearing the date 1663, must be very much older, -the year of rebuilding being probably indicated rather than the date of -the figure. - -The Ribble divides Settle from its former parish church at Giggleswick, -and until 1838 the townsfolk had to go over the bridge and along a short -lane to the village which held its church. Settle having been formed -into a separate parish, the parish clerk of the ancient village no -longer has the fees for funerals and marriages. Although able to share -the church, the two places had stocks of their own for a great many -years. At Settle they have been taken from the market square and placed -in the court-house, and at Giggleswick one of the first things we see on -entering the village is one of the stone posts of the stocks standing -by the steps of the market cross. This cross has a very well preserved -head, and it makes the foreground of a very pretty picture as we look at -the battlemented tower of the church through the stone-roofed lichgate -grown over with ivy. The history of this fine old church, dedicated, -like that of Middleham, to St. Alkelda, has been written by Mr. Thomas -Brayshaw, who knows every detail of the old building from the chalice -inscribed ‘✠ THE. COMMVNION. CVPP. BELONGINGE. TO. THE. PARISHE. OF. -IYGGELSWICKE. MADE. IN. ANO. 1585.’ to the inverted Norman capitals now -forming the bases of the pillars. The tower and the arcades date from -about 1400, and the rest of the structure is about 100 years older. - -‘The Black Horse’ Inn has still two niches for small figures of saints, -that proclaim its ecclesiastical connections in early times. It is said -that in the days when it was one of the duties of the churchwardens to -see that no one was drinking there during the hours of service the -inspection used to last up to just the end of the sermon, and that when -the custom was abolished the church officials regretted it exceedingly. -Giggleswick is also the proud possessor of a school founded in 1512. It -has grown from a very small beginning to a considerable establishment, -and it possesses one of the most remarkable school chapels that can be -seen anywhere in the country. It was built between 1897 and 1901, as a -memorial of Queen Victoria’s ‘Diamond Jubilee,’ by Mr. Walter Morrison, -who spared no expense in clothing it with elaborate decoration, executed -by some of the most renowned artists of the present day. The design of -the building is by Mr. T. G. Jackson, R.A. - -The museum is of more than ordinary interest on account of the very fine -collection of prehistoric remains discovered in the Victoria Cave two -miles to the north-east of Settle. Besides bones of such animals as the -cave bear, bison, elephant, and grisly bear, fragments of pottery were -discovered, together with bronze and silver coins dating from the Roman -period. - -An ebbing and flowing well, which has excited the admiration of all the -earlier writers on this part of Yorkshire, can be seen at about the -distance of a mile to the north of Giggleswick. The old prints show this -as a most spectacular natural phenomenon; but whatever it may have been -a century or more ago, it appears at the present day as little more than -an ordinary roadside well, so common in this neighbourhood. In very dry -or very wet weather the well remains inactive, but when there is a -medium supply of water the level of the water is constantly changing. -Giggleswick Tarn is no longer in existence, for it has been drained, and -the site is occupied by pastures. The very fine British canoe, -discovered when the drainage operations were in progress, is now -preserved in the Leeds Museum. - -The road that goes northward from Settle keeps close to the Midland -Railway, which here forces its way right through the Dale Country, under -the very shoulders of Pen-y-ghent, and within sight of the flat top of -Ingleborough. The greater part of this country is composed of limestone, -forming bare hillsides honeycombed with underground waters and -pot-holes, which often lead down into the most astonishing caverns. In -Ingleborough itself there is Gaping Gill Hole, a vast fissure nearly 350 -feet deep. It was only partially explored by M. Martel in 1895. -Ingleborough Cave penetrates into the mountain to a distance of nearly -1,000 feet, and is one of the best of these limestone caverns for its -stalactite formations. Guides take visitors from the village of Clapham -to the inmost recesses and chambers that branch out of the small -portion discovered in 1837. - -The fells contain so many fissures and curious waterfalls that drop into -abysses of blackness, that it would take an infinite time to adequately -describe even a portion of them. The scenery is wild and gaunt, and is -much the same as the moors at the head of Swaledale, described in an -earlier chapter. In every direction there are opportunities for splendid -mountain walks, and if the tracks are followed the danger of hidden -pot-holes is comparatively small. From the summit of Ingleborough, and, -indeed, from most of the fells that reach 2,000 feet, there are -magnificent views across the brown fells, broken up with horizontal -lines formed by the bare rocky scars. Bowfell, Whernside, Great Shunnor -Fell, High Seat, and a dozen other heights, dominate the lower and -greener country, and to the west, where the mountains drop down towards -Morecambe Bay, one looks all over the country watered by the Lune and -the Kent, the two rivers that flow from the seaward side of these lofty -watersheds. - - - - -INDEX - - -Addlebrough, 83, 89 - -Agincourt, Battle of, 96 - -Aire, river, 159, 162 - -Airton, 157 - -Aislabie, John, 116 - -Alan Rufus of Brittany, first Earl of Richmond, 18, 29, 32, 33 - -Alnwick, 35 - -Alwine, Parson of Wencelaw, 107 - -Anglo-Saxon population of Yorkshire, 40 - -Appleby, 152 - Castle, 153 - Church of St. Lawrence, 155 - -Aram, Eugene, 134 - -Arkengarthdale, 60 - -Arkle Beck, 63 - -Armada, Spanish, 154 - -Arncliffe, 146 - -Aske, family of, 43 - Roger de, 59 - -Askrigg, 65, 86, 89-96, 100, 115 - -Aysgarth, 91, 97, 100, 102, 145 - Force, 98, 99, 102 - - -Bain, River, 87 - -Bainbridge, 84, 86, 87, 88, 89, 94, 100 - -Bangor, Matthew Hutton, Bishop of, 53 - -Bannockburn, Battle of, 59, 128 - -Bardale, 84 - Beck, 85 - -Barden Bridge, 143, 144, - Forest, 143, 156 - Tower, 143, 144, 153, 156 - -Baugh or Bow Fell, 89 - -Bayeux tapestry, 40 - -Beaufort, Margaret, 36 - -Beckwith, John, 130 - -Bedale, 13, 32, 38 - Scolland Lord of, 32 - -Ben Rhydding, 140 - -Benedictine nuns at Marrick, 59 - -Beverley, 22 - Minster, 141 - -Bishop Dale, 100, 101 - Beck, 101 - -Bolingbroke, 133 - -Bolton Abbey, 141, 142, 149, 156 - Canons of, 156 - Castle, 88, 103, 104, 106 - lords of, 42, 96, 103 - Hall, 104, 105, 108 - Woods, 142 - -Boroughbridge, 128 - -Bosworth, Battle of, 156 - -Bow or Baugh Fell, 89, 171 - -Bradford, water supply of, 144 - -Brantwood, Coniston, 141 - -Brayshaw, Thomas, 168 - -Bretons, 16, 34, 39, 40 - -Bridlington, 22 - -British canoe, early, 170 - -Brittany, Dukes of, 18, 31, 35 - -Brough Castle, 153 - Hill, 84 - -Brougham Castle, 153, 155 - -Buckden, 144 - Pike, 102 - -Buonaparte, Napoleon, 105, 106 - -Burgh, Serlo de, 133 - -Burnsall, 144 - -Buttertubs Pass, 65, 71-76 - -Buxton, 19 - -Byron, Lord, 48 - - -Calver Hill, 61 - -Cam Fell, 84 - Gill Beck, 102 - -Canterbury, Matthew Hutton, Archbishop of, 53 - -Carlow Stone, Semmerwater, 84 - -Carperby, 97 - -Castleberg Settle, 166 - -Catherine, Queen, widow of Henry V., 36 - -Catterick, 32 - -Charles I., 129 - II., time of, 166 - -Château Gaillard, 131 - -Chemist’s shop, old, at Knaresborough, 130 - -Chevin, The, 139 - -Christianity, early, in Yorkshire, 118 - -Cistercian abbeys, 115, 119 - Nuns at Ellerton, 59 - -Civil War, the, of Charles I., 39, 103, 127, 129, 152, 153, 158 - -Clapham, 170 - -Clark, Daniel, 134 - -Clarkson, C., 23, 24 - -Cleveland Hills, 82 - -Clifford, family of, 150, 156 - the ninth Lord, 155 - Lady, 155, 156 - the tenth Lord, 143, 155, 156 - the Lady Anne, 144, 152-155 - -Clock-making in Wensleydale, 65, 92 - -Cogden Moor, 58 - -Commonwealth, time of, 19 - -Conan, fifth Earl of Richmond, 29, 30, 31, 32, 34, 115 - -Conyers, arms of, 23, 43 - -Corfe Castle, Dorsetshire, 110 - -Corn, lack of, in dales, 64, 81 - -Cotterdale, 92 - -Counterside, 88 - -Coverdale, 111, 144 - -Cow and Calf Rocks, Rumbles Moor, 140 - -Cracoe, 157 - -Cragdale, 85 - -Craven Fault, the, 161 - district, 149, 166 - men of, 156 - -Cromwell, Oliver, 127, 128, 129, 140, 158 - -Cumberland, 37, 156 - George, third Earl of, 152, 154 - Margaret, Countess of, 152 - -Cumbrian Hills, 4 - - -Dalesmen, 74, 106 - -Dallowgill Moor, 120 - -Danish population of Yorkshire, 40 - -De Burgh, Serlo, 133 - -De la Mare, Abbot, 108 - -Decorated Gothic Period, 23, 29, 109, 132, 142 - -Diamond Jubilee, the, of Queen Victoria, 169 - -Dissolution of the Monasteries, 25, 26, 121 - -Dodd Fell, 81, 82, 89, 145 - -Domesday Book, 32 - -Domfront, Normandy, 33 - -Dorset, Richard Sackville, Earl of, 152, 153 - -Douglas, Sir James, 128 - -Downholme, 56, 57 - Moor, 55 - -Dropping well, Knaresborough, 125, 134 - -Duerley Beck, 81 - -Durham, 14, 38, 53 - -Dykes, Oswald, 108 - - -Early English, period of Gothic, 117, 141 - -Easby Abbey, 40-43, 51, 105, 107 - -Ebbing and flowing well at Giggleswick, 169 - -Eden, River, 66 - -Edward II., 128 - reign of, 132, 151 - III., reign of, 35, 37 - IV., 109 - Prince of Wales, only son of Richard III., 110 - -Edwin, Earl, 30, 33 - -Eller Beck (Skipton), 157 - -Ellerton, 59 - -Elizabeth, Queen, 53, 154 - reign of, 131, 154 - -Eugene Aram, 134 - - -Fairfax, Thomas, Lord, 131 - -Falaise, Normandy, 33 - -Fantosme, Jordan, chronicle of, 34 - -Farmhouse, the, of the North Riding, 101 - -Farnley Hall, 139 - -‘Felon Sow of Rokeby, The,’ 26, 27, 28 - -Fences, stone, 6 - -Fitz-Hugh, arms of, 23 - -Fitz-Randolph, Robert, 109 - -Fitz-Ranulph, Radulph, 28 - -Flasby Fell, 157 - -Flodden Field, 156 - -Fors Abbey (Jervaulx), 91 - -Fountains Abbey, 41, 119, 121, 141 - Fell, 145 - -Fox, George, 88 - -Franciscans at Richmond, 25, 26, 28 - - -Gaping Gill Hole, 170 - -Gaunt, John of, 36 - -Gayle, 81 - -Gent, Thomas, 116 - -_Gentleman’s Magazine_, The, 127 - -Geology, 45, 76, 77 - -German Emperor, William II., - III, 144 - -German Ocean, 166 - -Giggleswick, 167, 168, 169 - School, 168, 169 - -Giggleswick Tarn, 169 - -Gill Beck (Swaledale), 47 - -Gilling, 33, 34 - East, wapentake of, 33 - West, wapentake of, 33 - -Gillingshire, 33 - -Glacial Epochs, 5, 77 - -Glanville or Glanvile, Randulf de, 35 - -Goodricke, Sir John, 127 - -Gordale Bridge, 159 - Scar, 159, 160, 161 - -Gormire (Thirsk), 85 - -Grandfather-clocks, 65, 92 - -Grassington, 144, 157 - -Gray, Archbishop Walter, 117 - -Great Central Railway, 8 - Northern Railway, 8 - -Great Shunnor Fell, 72, 76, 79, 171 - -Great Whernside, 111, 144 - -Greyfriars, Richmond, 25, 26, 28 - -Griffin, Gilbert, 28 - -Grinton, 60 - -Guilds, trade, at Richmond, 37, 38 - - -Hardraw Scar (or Force), 5, 77, 78, 79, 80, 98, 99 - -Harkerside Moor, 58 - -Harrogate, 19, 129, 135, 136 - -Haw Beck, Skipton, 149 - -Hawes, 5, 9, 64, 72, 75, 76, 77, 80, 89, 92, 93, 145 - -Hawes Junction, 63 - -Heather on the fells, 5 - -Helvellyn, 83 - -Henry II., 34 - III., reign of, 43 - V., Catherine widow of, 36 - VI., play of, 109 - VII., 36, 156 - reign of, 26 - VIII., reign of, 18, 42 - -Hetton, 157 - -Hexham, 118 - -High Seat, 66, 171 - -Hobs and wraithes, 74 - -Holy Rood (September 27), custom - commencing at, 88 - -Hornblower, the, of Ripon, 116 - -Horse Head Moor, 145 - -Houses (farms) of the North Riding, 101 - -Hubberholme, 145 - -Hudswell, 55 - -Hutchinson, John, 64 - -Hutton, Matthew, Archbishop of York (1594), 52 - -Hutton, Matthew, Archbishop of Canterbury (1757), 53 - -Hutton, Captain Matthew, 53 - - -Ice action, 5 - -Ilkley, 140 - -Ingleborough, 3, 76, 170, 171 - Cave, 170 - -Ingleton Fells, the, 139, 170, 171 - -Irish Sea, 166 - - -Jackson family of Counterside, 88 - T. G., R.A., 169 - -Jervaulx Abbey, 100, 115 - -John of Gaunt, 36 - -Jyggelswicke. See Giggleswick - - -Keld, 65, 66 - -Kent River, 171 - -Kettlewell, 144 - -Kirby Fell, 158 - Malham, 158, 165, 166 - -Kisdon Force, 65 - Hill, 65 - -Kitchen, Richard, 157 - -Kitchener, Lord, 65 - -Knappey, 96. See Nappa Hall - -Knaresborough, 125-135 - Castle, 130-133, 152 - Manor House, 126, 130 - -Knight Templars, chapel of, 106, 107 - -Knitting in Wensleydale, 91, 92 - -Knollys, Sir Francis (1568), 103, 104 - - -Lady’s Pillar, 66 - -Lake District, 4, 63, 66, 82, 83 - -Lambert, Major-General John, 158, 159 - -Lancashire, 36 - -Lancastrians, 155 - -Langside, Battle of, 103 - -Langstrothdale, 82, 83, 102, 145 - -‘Lass of Richmond Hill, The,’ ballad of, 36 - -Lead mines, 60 - -Leeds Museum, 170 - -Leland, John, 18, 22, 24, 26, 33, 59, 81, 97, 99 - -Leyburn, 13, 55, 57, 92, 104, 109, 111, 139 - -Leyburn Shawl, 104, 110, 111 - -Lilburne, of Cromwellian army, 131 - -Ling, growth of, on the fells, 82 - -Litton, 146 - -Littondale, 5, 144, 145 - -Londesborough, 156 - -Lune River, 171 - -Lytton, Lord, 132 - - -Malham, 159, 165 - Cove, 161, 162, 165 - Tarn, 159 - -Mare, Abbot de la, brass of, 108 - -Marrick, 59 - Priory, 59 - -Marske, 51, 52, 55 - Beck, 52, 54 - Hall, 52, 53, 54 - obelisk at, 53, 54 - -Marston Moor, Battle of, 140 - -Martel, M., 170 - -Mary Queen of Scots, 97, 103, 104, 105 - -Masham, 38, 115 - -Mashamshire Volunteers, 106 - -Mercia, 34 - -Metcalfe family, 91, 96, 97 - James, 96 - Thomas, 96 - -Mickleden, 63 - -Middleham, 28, 38, 92, 109, 110, 144, 168 - -Middleton, Friar of Richmond, 26, 27 - -Middleton, Sir Andrew de, 140 - -Midland Railway, 9, 66, 159, 170 - -Mill Gill Force, 95, 98 - -Monasteries, Dissolution of, 25, 26 - -Moone, Richard, Prior of Bolton, 141 - -Morecambe Bay, 171 - -Morris, Joseph E., 64 - -Morrison, Walter, 169 - -Mowbray, Vale of, 30, 31, 106 - -Muker, 61, 63, 64, 65, 71, 72, 92 - -Murray’s ‘Guide to Yorkshire,’ 92, 93 - - -Napoleon’s threatened invasion of England, 105 - -Nappa Hall, 86, 91, 96, 97 - -Navy, British, 154 - -Neville, Anne, 110 - arms of, 23 - family of, 109 - Ralph, first Earl of Westmoreland, 36 - -Newby Hall, Ripon, 97 - -Nidd River, 125, 130, 133, 144 - -Nidderdale, 144 - -Norman Conquest, 14, 32 - period and architecture, 18, 19, - 28, 29, 31, 32, 33, 42, 50, 57, 87, 91, 109, 110, - 117, 120, 142, 158, 168 - -Northallerton, 128 - -North-Eastern Railway, 9, 14 - -North Sea, 166 - -Norton family of Rylstone, 157 - - -Obelisk at Marske, 53 - Richmond, 23 - Ripon, 116 - -Old Cam Road, 84 - -Otley, 139 - - -Parliament, the English, 106 - -Pateley Bridge, 144 - -Pembroke and Montgomery, Lady Anne, Countess of, 144, 152-155 - -Pembroke and Montgomery, Philip, Earl of, 153 - -Pendragon Castle, 153 - -Penhill Beacon, 83, 105, 106 - -Pennine Range, 3, 4 - -Penrith, 152 - -Pen-y-ghent, 3, 145, 170 - -Perpendicular Period, 18, 23, 25, 28, 43, 91, 100, 108, 117, 141, 158 - -Pickering, 43 - -Pisgah, Mount, 48 - -Plagues at Richmond, 37 - -Potholes, 67, 71, 74, 75 - -Pratt, clock-maker at Askrigg, 65 - -Prehistoric remains, 169 - -Purbeck, Corfe Castle in Isle of, 110 - - -Quakers at Counterside, 88 - -Queen’s Gap, The, at Leyburn Shawl, 104 - - -Railways in the Dale Country, 8 - -Rainfall in the dales, 63 - -Raisgill, 145 - -Ralph of Rokeby, 26 - -Randolph, Robert Fitz-, 109 - -Ranulph, Radulph Fitz-, 28 - -Raydale, 85 - -Redmire, 103 - -Reeth, 51, 52, 53, 60, 61 - -Ribald, brother of a Norman Earl of Richmond, 109 - -Ribble, River, 167 - -Ribblesdale, 9, 167-171 - -Richard I., 131 - II., 133 - reign of, 18, 36 - III., only son of, 110 - arms of, 110 - -Richmond, 13-42, 49, 55, 61, 115, 116 - Barley Cross, the, 24 - -Richmond Castle, 15, 29-37, 39, 42, 130, 131 - walk, 19 - curfew-bell, 18 - Earls of, 18, 29, 31, 32, 35, 36, 109, 115 - gates and walls, 21, 22, 24 - Holy Trinity Church, 17, 33 - King’s Head Hotel, 17 - market-place, 16, 19, 21, 22, 30 - may-pole, 24 - Mayor and Corporation of, 15, 24, 50 - obelisk, 16, 23 - old cross, the, 23, 24 - pillory, 24 - plagues at, 37 - Rural Deanery of, 38 - Trade Guilds of, 37, 38 - whipping-post, 24 - -‘Richmondshire, History of,’ by H. Speight, 60, 97 - men of, 35 - -Rievaulx Abbey, 41 - -Ripley, Hugh, of Ripon, 118 - -Ripon, 41, 97, 115-118, 157 - Lord (1906), 119 - Minster, 117, 118 - -Rising of the North, the, 157 - -Road-making, 94 - -Roald, Constable of Richmond Castle, 42 - -Robin Hood’s Tower, Richmond Castle, 31 - -Robinson, Richard, of Counterside, 88 - -Rogan’s Seat, 66 - -Rokeby, Ralph of, 26 - ‘The Felon Sow of,’ 26 - -Roman type of crypt at Ripon, 118 - -Romans at Bainbridge, 84, 87 - at Catterick, 32 - -Romans at Richmond, 40 - near Settle, 169 - -Romillé, Robert de, 151 - -Roseberry Topping, 106 - -Rumbles Moor, 140 - -Ruskin, John, 141 - -Rylstone, 157 - ballad of the White Doe of, 157 - Fell, 157 - - -Sackville, Richard, Earl of Dorset, 152, 153 - -Sanderson, Prior Robert, 25 - -Saxon remains, lack of, at Richmond, 33 - or pre-Norman crosses, 140 - -Scarborough, 39 - -Scarth Nick, 105 - -Scolland, Lord of Bedale, 32 - -Scolland’s Hall, Richmond Castle, 32 - -Scots, defeat of, at Alnwick, 35 - raids of the, 36, 37, 59, 128 - -Scott, Sir Walter, ballad of ‘The Felon Sow of Rokeby,’ 26 - -Scrope, arms of, 23, 108 - family of, 42, 43, 96, 103, 105, 108 - Richard, Lord of Bolton, 105 - Sir Henry le, 42 - Sir William le, 42 - ninth Lord, 103 - tombs, 42 - -Sedbergh, 62 - -Semmerwater, 84-88 - -Settle, 9, 165-167, 169 - -Shakespeare’s play of ‘Henry VI.,’ 109 - -Shambles at Settle, 166 - -Sharp, Roger, 38 - -Sheep, Wensleydale, 115 - -Shelley, Percy B., 90 - -Shene, Surrey, 36 - -Shrovetide, 88 - -Simon de Wenselawe, Sir, 108 - -Skell, River, 119 - -Skipton, 9, 14, 143, 144, 146, 149-157 - Castle, 150-156 - -Skirfare, River, 146 - -Slinger, a woman of Cotterdale, 92 - -Slingsby, family of, 129 - Francis, 129 - Mary, 129 - Sir Charles, 129 - Sir Henry, 129 - -Snowstorms in the dales, 83 - -South Africa, 7 - -Spanish Armada, 154 - -Speight, Harry, 83, 87, 97 - -St. Agatha’s Abbey, Easby, 40 - -St. Alban’s Abbey, 108 - -St. Alkelda, churches dedicated to, 110, 168 - -St. Anne, chantry to, at Askrigg, 91 - -St. Martin’s Priory at Richmond, 28, 42 - -St. Mary’s Abbey at York, 28 - -St. Nicholas, Chapel of, in Richmond Castle, 31 - -St. Pancras Station, London, 9 - -St. Robert’s Chapel, Knaresborough, 134 - -St. Wilfrid’s Needle, Ripon, 118 - -Stag’s Fell, 65 - -Stake Fell, 83 - -Starbeck, 135 - -Starbottom, 102 - -Storms in the dales, 62, 63, 83 - -Stray, the, at Harrogate, 135 - -Strid, the, 143 - -Studley Royal, 119 - -Swale, River, 20, 21, 41, 48-67 - -Swaledale, 8, 13, 47-64, 83 - -Swine Cross, Middleham, 110 - - -Tees, high force on the, 99 - -Teesdale, 64 - -Templars, Knight, chapel of, 106 - -Thames River, 36 - -Thirsk, 106 - William, last Abbot of Fountains Abbey, 121 - -Thoralby, 100, 101 - -Thornton, William (Askrigg), 90 - -Tibetot, arms of, 23 - -Tintern Abbey, 41 - -Tor Mere Top, 102 - -Towton, Battle of, 155 - -Tudor, Edmund, 36 - -Turner, J. W. M., 59, 84, 139 - - -Ure, River and Valley of, 43, 71, 80, 89, - 97-99, 102, 107, 109, 115, and see Wensleydale - -Uredale, 81, and see Wensleydale - - -Vale of Mowbray, 31, 106 - of York, 6 - -Victoria Cave, 169 - Queen, 169 - -Volunteers, Wensleydale, etc., 105, 106 - -Wakefield, Battle of, 155 - -Wakemen, the, of Ripon, 117, 118 - -Walburn Hall, 57 - Wymer de, 57 - -Waldendale, 102 - -Walker, George, 91 - -Warwick, arms of, 110 - the King-maker, 109 - -Watershed of England, 166, 171 - -Watling Street, 27 - -Wayne, Christopher, 23 - -Wencelaw. See Wensley - -Wenselawe. See Wensley - -Wensley, 105, 107, 110 - -Wensleydale, 5, 43, 64, 65, 71-111, 115 - Forest of, 87 - -West Burton, 100 - -Westmoreland, 37, 63, 66, 101, 155 - Ralph Neville, first Earl of, 36 - -Wether Fell, 82-84, 89 - -Whaley, Mr., of Askrigg, 91 - -Wharfe, River, 139, 141, 142, 144, 156 - -Wharfedale, 5, 102, 136, 139-146 - Forest of, 143 - -Whernside, 171 - Great and Little, 111 - -Whitaker, Dr., Historian of Craven and Richmondshire, 24, 25, 76, 154 - -Whitcliffe Scar, 47-49, 53 - -Whitfield Force, 96 - -Widdale Fell, 89 - -Wilfrid, 118 - -Willance, Robert, 49, 50 - -Willance’s Leap, 49, 54 - -William the Conqueror, 18, 33, 34, 133, 151 - the Lion of Scotland, 34 - -Winterburn, 157 - -Wodenslag. See Wensley - -Woodhall Park, 97 - -Wordsworth, William, 157, 161 - -Wraithes and hobs, 74 - -Wyatt, the architect, 117 - -Wyman, dapifer to the Earl of Richmond, 28 - - -York, 22, 28 - Archbishopric of, 53 - Minster, 139 - Vale of, 6 - -THE END - -BILLING AND SONS, LIMITED, PRINTERS, GUILDFORD - - - - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Yorkshire Dales and Fells, by Gordon Home - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YORKSHIRE DALES AND FELLS *** - -***** This file should be named 55067-0.txt or 55067-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/0/6/55067/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Yorkshire Dales and Fells - -Author: Gordon Home - -Release Date: July 7, 2017 [EBook #55067] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YORKSHIRE DALES AND FELLS *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/cover_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="320" style="border:none;" height="500" alt="[Image -of the book's cover is unavailable.]" /></a> -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border: 2px black solid;margin:auto auto;max-width:50%; -padding:1%;"> -<tr><td> - -<p class="c"><a href="#Contents">Contents.</a></p> -<p class="c"><a href="#INDEX">Index</a>: -<a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I-i">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#K">K</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#Q">Q</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V-i">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#Y">Y</a>.</p> -<p class="c"><a href="#List_of_Illustrations">List of Illustrations</a><br /> <span class="nonvis">(In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers] -clicking on the image, -will bring up a larger version.)</span></p> - -<p class="c">(etext transcriber's note)</p></td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="cb">YORKSHIRE<br /> -DALES AND FELLS -</p> - -<div class="bbox"> -<div class="bboxx"> -<p class="c"> -A COMPANION VOLUME<br /> -BY THE SAME AUTHOR<br /> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="bboxx"> -<p class="c"> -<big>YORKSHIRE</big><br /> - -COAST AND MOORLAND SCENES<br /> - -<span class="smcap">By</span> GORDON HOME<br /> - -<small>CONTAINING 32 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS<br /> -IN COLOUR</small><br /> -<br /> -PRICE <b>7s.</b> <b>6d.</b> NET<br /> -</p> - -<p><i>The Pall Mall Gazette</i> says: “We must express our real regret that it -is materially impossible to reproduce some specimens of the charming -illustrations, which are at least as great an attraction as the writing -of Mr. Home’s book. Of these there are thirty-two, among which it would -be invidious to select any for special commendation when all are -delightful. Let it suffice to say that they bring the water of envy into -the mouth of the Londoner who can only ‘babble o’ green fields,’ while, -beyond the range of his opportunities, the Yorkshire moors are clothing -themselves in all the glory of their vernal beauty. Perhaps Mr. Home’s -pen and pencil may tempt some of us to spend the summer holidays in the -county of the White Rose, where he has gathered so fragrant a posy.”</p> -</div> - -<div class="bboxx"> - -<p class="c"> -<i>Published by</i><br /> - -A. & C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.<br /> -</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="c"> -AGENTS IN AMERICA<br /> -THE MACMILLAN COMPANY<br /> -<span class="smcap">64 & 66 Fifth Avenue, New York</span><br /> -</p> - -<p><a name="ill_001" id="ill_001"></a><a name="front" id="front"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 328px;"> -<a href="images/ill_001_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_001_sml.jpg" width="328" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">FOUNTAINS ABBEY</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Is</span> one of the finest ruined monasteries in England, and its wonderfully -rich setting in the sylvan splendours of Studley Royal make it still -more noteworthy. The velvet turf, the rushing waters of the Skell, the -magnificent trees, and the solemnity of the ruins, combine in producing -an ineffaceable memory.</p></div> -</div> - -<h1> -<big><span class="rred">Y O R K S H I R E</span></big><br /> -<br /> -DALES <span class="smcap">and</span> FELLS<br /> -<br /> -<small>PAINTED &<br /> -DESCRIBED<br /> -BY<br /> -GORDON HOME</small></h1> - -<p class="cb"><img src="images/colophon.png" -width="70" -alt="" -style="border:none;" -/> -<br /><br /> -PUBLISHED BY A. & C.<br /> -BLACK · LONDON · MCMVI<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_v" id="page_v"></a>{v}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="Preface" id="Preface"></a>Preface</h2> -<p><span class="smcap">This</span> book is a companion volume to that entitled ‘Yorkshire Coast and -Moorland Scenes,’ which was published in 1904.</p> - -<p>It describes a tract of country that is more full of noble and imposing -scenery than the north-eastern corner of the county, although it has -none of the advantages of a coast-line. Beyond this, the area covered by -the present volume is larger than that of the earlier one, and the -historic events connected with its great over-lords and their castles, -with the numerous monasteries and ancient towns, are so full of -thrilling interest that it has only been possible to sample here and -there the vast stores of romance that exist in some hundreds of volumes -of early and modern writings.</p> - -<p class="r"> -GORDON HOME.<br /> -</p> -<p class="hang"> -<span class="smcap">Epsom</span>,<br /> -<i>April, 1906</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vii" id="page_vii"></a>{vii}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="Contents" id="Contents"></a>Contents</h2> -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><th><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a></th></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td class="rt"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Dale Country as a Whole</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_001">1</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Richmond</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_013">13</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Swaledale</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_047">47</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Wensleydale</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_071">71</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Ripon and Fountains Abbey</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_115">115</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Knaresborough and Harrogate</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_125">125</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Wharfedale</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_139">139</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Skipton, Malham, and Gordale</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_149">149</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Settle and the Ingleton Fells</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_165">165</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Index</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_173">173</a></td></tr> -</table> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ix" id="page_ix"></a>{ix}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="List_of_Illustrations" id="List_of_Illustrations"></a>List of Illustrations</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_001">1.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_001">Fountains Abbey </a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#front"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td> </td><td class="rt"><small>FACING PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_002">2.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_002">Richmond Castle from the River</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_020">20</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_003">3.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_003">Richmond from the West</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_030">30</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_004">4.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_004">Swaledale in the Early Autumn</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_048">48</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_005">5.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_005">Downholme Moor, above Swaledale</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_056">56</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_006">6.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_006">Muker on a Stormy Afternoon</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_064">64</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_007">7.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_007">Twilight in the Butter-tubs Pass</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_072">72</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_008">8.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_008">Hardraw Force</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_078">78</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_009">9.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_009">A Rugged View above Wensleydale</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_082">82</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_010">10.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_010">A Jacobean House at Askrigg</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_090">90</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_011">11.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_011">Aysgarth Force</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_098">98</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_012">12.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_012">Bolton Castle, Wensleydale</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_104">104</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_013">13.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_013">View up Wensleydale from Leyburn Shawl</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_110">110</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_014">14.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_014">Ripon Minster from the South</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_018">18</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_015">15.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_015">Knaresborough</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_126">126</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_016">16.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_016">Bolton Abbey, Wharfedale</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_142">142</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_017">17.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_017">Hubberholme Church</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_144">144</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_018">18.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_018">The Courtyard of Skipton Castle</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_150">150</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_019">19.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_019">Gordale Scar</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_160">160</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_020">20.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_020">Settle</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_166">166</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_001" id="page_001"></a>{1}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_002" id="page_002"></a>{2}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_003" id="page_003"></a>{3}</span> </p> - -<h2><a name="THE_DALE_COUNTRY_AS_A_WHOLE" id="THE_DALE_COUNTRY_AS_A_WHOLE"></a>THE DALE COUNTRY AS A WHOLE</h2> - -<h3><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I<br /><br /> -<small>DESCRIBES THE DALE COUNTRY AS A WHOLE</small></h3> -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">When</span> in the early years of life one learns for the first time the name -of that range of mountains forming the backbone of England, the youthful -scholar looks forward to seeing in later years the prolonged series of -lofty hills known as the ‘Pennine Range.’ His imagination pictures -Pen-y-ghent and Ingleborough as great peaks, seldom free from a mantle -of clouds, for are they not called ‘mountains of the Pennine Range,’ and -do they not appear in almost as large type in the school geography as -Snowdon and Ben Nevis? But as the scholar grows older and more able to -travel, so does the Pennine Range recede from his vision, until it -becomes almost as remote as those crater-strewn mountains in the Moon -which have a name so similar.</p> - -<p>This elusiveness on the part of a natural feature so essentially static -as a mountain range is attributable to the total disregard of the name -of this<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_004" id="page_004"></a>{4}</span> particular chain of hills. In the same way as the term -‘Cumbrian Hills’ is exchanged for the popular ‘Lake District,’ so is a -large section of the Pennine Range paradoxically known as the ‘Yorkshire -Dales.’</p> - -<p>It is because the hills are so big that the valleys are deep, and it is -owing to the great watersheds that these long and narrow dales are -beautified by some of the most copious and picturesque rivers in -England. In spite of this, however, when one climbs any of the fells -over 2,000 feet, and looks over the mountainous ridges on every side, -one sees, as a rule, no peak or isolated height of any description to -attract one’s attention. Instead of the rounded or angular projections -from the horizon that are usually associated with a mountainous -district, there are great expanses of brown tableland that form -themselves into long parallel lines in the distance, and give a sense of -wild desolation in some ways more striking than the peaks of Scotland or -Wales. The thick formations of millstone grit and limestone that rest -upon the shale have generally avoided crumpling or distortion, and thus -give the mountain views the appearance of having had all the upper -surfaces rolled flat when they were in a plastic condition. Denudation -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_005" id="page_005"></a>{5}</span> the action of ice in the glacial epochs have worn through the hard -upper stratum, and formed the long and narrow dales; and in Littondale, -Wharfedale, Wensleydale, and many other parts, one may plainly see the -perpendicular wall of rock sharply defining the upper edges of the -valleys. The softer rocks below generally take a gentle slope from the -base of the hard gritstone to the river-side pastures below. At the -edges of the dales, where waterfalls pour over the wall of limestone—as -at Hardraw Scar, near Hawes—the action of water is plainly -demonstrated, for one can see the rapidity with which the shale -crumbles, leaving the harder rocks overhanging above.</p> - -<p>Unlike the moors of the north-eastern parts of Yorkshire, the fells are -not prolific in heather. It is possible to pass through Wensleydale—or, -indeed, most of the dales—without seeing any heather at all. On the -broad plateaux between the dales there are stretches of moor partially -covered with ling; but in most instances the fells and moors are grown -over at their higher levels with bent and coarse grass, generally of a -browny-ochrish colour, broken here and there by an outcrop of limestone -that shows gray against the swarthy vegetation.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_006" id="page_006"></a>{6}</span></p> - -<p>In the upper portions of the dales—even in the narrow river-side -pastures—the fences are of stone, turned a very dark colour by -exposure, and everywhere on the slopes of the hills a wide network of -these enclosures can be seen traversing even the most precipitous -ascents. Where the dales widen out towards the fat plains of the Vale of -York, quickset hedges intermingle with the gaunt stone, and as one gets -further eastwards the green hedge becomes triumphant. The stiles that -are the fashion in the stone-fence districts make quite an interesting -study to strangers, for, wood being an expensive luxury, and stone being -extremely cheap, everything is formed of the more enduring material. -Instead of a trap-gate, one generally finds an excessively narrow -opening in the fences, only just giving space for the thickness of the -average knee, and thus preventing the passage of the smallest lamb. Some -stiles are constructed with a large flat stone projecting from each -side, one slightly in front and overlapping the other, so that one can -only pass through by making a very careful S-shaped movement. More -common are the projecting stones, making a flight of precarious steps on -each side of the wall.</p> - -<p>Except in their lowest and least mountainous<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a>{7}</span> parts, where they are -subject to the influences of the plains, the dales are entirely innocent -of red tiles and haystacks. The roofs of churches, cottages, barns and -mansions, are always of the local stone, that weathers to beautiful -shades of green and gray, and prevents the works of man from jarring -with the great sweeping hillsides. Then, instead of the familiar -gray-brown haystack, one sees in almost every meadow a neatly-built -stone house with an upper story. The lower part is generally used as a -shelter for cattle, while above is stored hay or straw. By this system a -huge amount of unnecessary carting is avoided, and where roads are few -and generally of exceeding steepness a saving of this nature is a -benefit easily understood. Any soldier who served in South Africa during -the latter part of the war would be struck with the advantages that -these ready-made block-houses would offer if it were ever necessary to -round up a mobile enemy who had taken refuge among the Yorkshire fells. -Barbed-wire entanglements, and a system of telephones to link them -together, would be all that was required to convert these stone barns -into block-houses of a thoroughly useful type, for they are already -loopholed.</p> - -<p>The villages of the dales, although having none<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_008" id="page_008"></a>{8}</span> of the bright colours -of a level country, are often exceedingly quaint, and rich in soft -shades of green and gray. In the autumn the mellowed tints of the stone -houses are contrasted with the fierce yellows and browny-reds of the -foliage, and the villages become full of bright colours. At all times, -except when the country is shrivelled by an icy northern wind, the -scenery of the dales has a thousand charms. By the edge of fine rivers -that pour downwards in terraced falls one finds hamlets with their -church towers, gray and sturdy, and the little patch of green shaded by -ash-trees, all made diminutive by the huge and gaunt hillsides that -dominate every view. Looking up the dales, there are often glimpses of -distant heights that in their blue silhouettes give a more mountainous -aspect to the scenery than one might expect.</p> - -<p>In some of the valleys, such as Swaledale, the nakedness of the -yellow-brown hills is clothed with a mantle of heavy woods—but enough -has been said by way of introduction to give some notion of the general -aspect of the dales, and in the succeeding chapters a closer scrutiny -can be made.</p> - -<p>The ways of approaching the Dale Country from the south are by means of -the Great Northern, Midland, or Great Central routes to York, where<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_009" id="page_009"></a>{9}</span> one -has all the North-Eastern service to choose from. Ribblesdale is -traversed by the Midland Main Line, so that those who wish to commence -an exploration of these parts of Yorkshire from Settle, Skipton, or -Hawes, must travel from St. Pancras Station.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_010" id="page_010"></a>{10}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_011" id="page_011"></a>{11}</span> </p> - -<h2><a name="RICHMOND" id="RICHMOND"></a>RICHMOND</h2> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_012" id="page_012"></a>{12}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_013" id="page_013"></a>{13}</span> </p> - -<h3><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II<br /><br /> -<small>RICHMOND</small></h3> -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">For</span> the purposes of this book we may consider Richmond as the gateway of -the dale country. There are other gates and approaches, some of which -may have advocates who claim their superiority over Richmond as -starting-places for an exploration of this description, but for my part, -I can find no spot on any side of the mountainous region so entirely -satisfactory. If we were to commence at Bedale or Leyburn, there is no -exact point where the open country ceases and the dale begins; but here -at Richmond there is not the very smallest doubt, for on reaching the -foot of the mass of rock dominated by the castle and the town, Swaledale -commences in the form of a narrow ravine, and from that point westwards -the valley never ceases to be shut in by steep sides, which become -narrower and grander with every mile.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_014" id="page_014"></a>{14}</span></p> - -<p>The railway that keeps Richmond in touch with the world does its work in -a most inoffensive manner, and by running to the bottom of the hill on -which the town stands, and by there stopping short, we seem to have a -strong hint that we have been brought to the edge of a new element in -which railways have no rights whatever. This is as it should be, and we -can congratulate the North-Eastern Company for its discretion and its -sense of fitness. Even the station is built of solid stonework, with a -strong flavour of medievalism in its design, and its attractiveness is -enhanced by the complete absence of other modern buildings. We are thus -welcomed to the charms of Richmond at once. The rich sloping meadows by -the river, crowned with dense woodlands, surround us and form a -beautiful setting of green for the town, which has come down from the -fantastic days of the Norman Conquest without any drastic or unseemly -changes, and thus has still the compactness and the romantic outline of -feudal times.</p> - -<p>By some means Richmond avoided the manufactories that have entirely -altered the character of such places as Skipton and Durham, but if we -wish to see what might have happened or what may still befall this town, -it is only necessary for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_015" id="page_015"></a>{15}</span> us to go a little way above the new bridge, -and there, beneath the castle heights, see one of the most conspicuously -and unnecessarily ugly gasworks that was ever dumped upon a fair scene. -I suppose a day will arrive when the Mayor and Corporation will lay -their heads together with the object of devising a plan for the removal -of these dismal buildings to some site where they will be less -offensive, but until that day they will continue to mar the charms of a -town whose situation is almost unequalled in this island.</p> - -<p>From whatever side you approach it, Richmond has always some fine -combination of towers overlooking a confusion of old red roofs and of -rocky heights crowned with ivy-mantled walls, all set in the most -sumptuous surroundings of silvery river and wooded hills, such as the -artists of the age of steel-engraving loved to depict. Every one of -these views has in it one dominating feature in the magnificent Norman -keep of the castle. It overlooks church towers and everything else with -precisely the same aloofness of manner it must have assumed as soon as -the builders of nearly eight hundred years ago had put the last stone in -place. Externally, at least, it is as complete to-day as it was then, -and as there is no ivy upon it,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a>{16}</span> I cannot help thinking that the Bretons -who built it in that long-distant time would swell with pride were they -able to see how their ambitious work has come down the centuries -unharmed.</p> - -<p>We can go across the modern bridge, with its castellated parapets, and -climb up the steep ascent on the further side, passing on the way the -parish church, standing on the steep ground outside the circumscribed -limits of the wall that used to enclose the town in early times. Turning -towards the castle, we go breathlessly up the cobbled street that climbs -resolutely to the market-place in a foolishly direct fashion, which -might be understood if it were a Roman road. There is a sleepy quietness -about this way up from the station, which is quite a short distance, and -we look for much movement and human activity in the wide space we have -reached; but here, too, on this warm and sunny afternoon, the few folks -who are about seem to find ample time for conversation and loitering. At -the further end of the great square there are some vast tents erected -close to the big obelisk that forms the market-cross of the present day. -Quantities of straw are spread upon the cobbles, and the youth of -Richmond watches with intense interest the bulgings of the canvas walls -of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_017" id="page_017"></a>{17}</span> tents. With this they are obliged to be content for a time, but -just as we reach this end of the square two huge swaying elephants issue -forth to take their afternoon stroll in company with their son, whose -height is scarcely more than half that of his parents. The children have -not waited in vain, and they gaze awe-struck at the furrowed sides of -the slate-gray monsters as they are led, slowly padding their way, -across the square. We watch them as they pass under the shadow of Holy -Trinity Church, then out in the sunshine again they go lurching past the -old-fashioned houses until they turn down Frenchgate and disappear, with -the excited but respectful knot of children following close behind.</p> - -<p>On one side of us is the King’s Head, whose steep tiled roof and square -front has just that air of respectable importance that one expects to -find in an old-established English hotel. It looks across the cobbled -space to the curious block of buildings that seems to have been intended -for a church but has relapsed into shops. The shouldering of secular -buildings against the walls of churches is a sight so familiar in parts -of France that this market-place has an almost Continental flavour, in -keeping with the fact that Richmond grew up under the protection<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_018" id="page_018"></a>{18}</span> of the -formidable castle built by that Alan Rufus of Brittany who was the -Conqueror’s second cousin. The town ceased to be a possession of the -Dukes of Brittany in the reign of Richard II., but there had evidently -been sufficient time to allow French ideals to percolate into the minds -of the men of Richmond, for how otherwise can we account for this -strange familiarity of shops with a sacred building which is unheard of -in any other English town? Where else can one find a pork-butcher’s shop -inserted between the tower and the nave, or a tobacconist doing business -in the aisle of a church? Even the lower parts of the tower have been -given up to secular uses, so that one only realizes the existence of the -church by keeping far enough away to see the sturdy pinnacled tower that -rises above the desecrated lower portions of the building. In this tower -hangs the curfew-bell, which is rung at 6 a.m. and 8 p.m., a custom, -according to one writer, ‘that has continued ever since the time of -William the Conqueror.’ The bell, we know, is not Norman, and the tower -belongs to the Perpendicular period, but the church is referred to in -Norman times, and Leland, writing in the reign of Henry VIII., suggests -an earlier survival. He may, of course,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_019" id="page_019"></a>{19}</span> be describing Norman grotesque -carvings, but, on the other hand, he may be recording some relics of a -more barbarous age when he writes: ‘There is a Chapel in <i>Richemont</i> -Toune with straung Figures in the Waulles of it. The Peple there dreme -that it was ons [a temple of] Idoles.’ I wonder if those carved figures -were entirely destroyed in the days of the Commonwealth, or whether they -were merely thrown aside during some restoration, and are waiting for -digging or building operations to bring them to light.</p> - -<p>All the while we have been lingering in the market-place the great keep -has been looking at us over some old red roofs, and urging us to go on -at once to the finest sight that Richmond can offer, and, resisting the -appeal no longer, we make our way down a narrow little street leading -out to a walk that goes right round the castle cliffs at the base of the -ivy-draped walls. If this walk were at Harrogate or Buxton, we can -easily imagine that its charms would be vitiated by some evidences of a -popular recognition of its attractiveness. There would be a strong -ornamental iron railing on the exposed side of the path; there would -probably be an automatic-machine waiting to supply a souvenir picture<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_020" id="page_020"></a>{20}</span> -post-card of the view; there would be notices—most excellent where they -are needed—requesting visitors not to throw paper or orange-peel -anywhere but in the receptacle supplied; and, besides all this, there -would, I have no doubt, be ornamental shrubberies, and here and there a -few beds of flowers, kept with all the neatness of municipal -horticulture. Such efforts would meet with some sort of response on the -part of the public, and the castle walk would be sufficiently populous -to prevent anyone from appreciating its charms. No; instead of all this -we find a simple asphalt path without any fence at all. There are two or -three seats that are perfectly welcome, but there is a delightful -absence of shrubberies or flower-beds, and the notices to the public -fixed to the castle walls are weathered and quite inconspicuous. Beyond -all this, the castle walk is generally a place in which one can be -alone, and yet</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘This is not solitude; ’tis but to hold<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Converse with Nature’s charms, and see those charms unfold.’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>From down below comes the sound of the river, ceaselessly chafing its -rocky bottom and the big boulders that lie in the way. You can -distinguish the hollow sound of the waters as they fall over ledges into -deep pools, and you can watch the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_021" id="page_021"></a>{21}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_002" id="ill_002"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 390px;"> -<a href="images/ill_003_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_003_sml.jpg" width="390" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">RICHMOND CASTLE FROM THE RIVER</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">This</span> well-known view of the castle from the banks of the Swale is only -one of the numerous romantic pictures that can be found in Richmond. The -great Norman keep, built about the year 1150, forms the dominating -feature of every aspect of the town.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">silvery gleams of broken water between the old stone bridge and the dark -shade of the woods. The masses of trees clothing the side of the gorge -add a note of mystery to the picture by swallowing up the river in their -heavy shade, for, owing to its sinuous course among the cliffs, one can -see only a short piece of water beyond the bridge.</p> - -<p>The old corner of the town at the foot of Bargate appears over the edge -of the rocky slope, but on the opposite side of the Swale there is -little to be seen beside the green meadows and shady coppices that cover -the heights above the river.</p> - -<p>There is a fascination in this view in its capacity for change. It -responds to every mood of the weather, and every sunset that glows -across the sombre woods has some freshness, some feature that is quite -unlike any other. Autumn, too, is a memorable time for those who can -watch the face of Nature from this spot, for when one of those opulent -evenings of the fall of the year turns the sky into a golden sea of -glory, studded with strange purple islands, there is unutterable beauty -in the flaming woods and the pale river.</p> - -<p>On the way back to the market-place we pass a decayed arch that was -probably a postern in the walls of the town. There can be no doubt<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_022" id="page_022"></a>{22}</span> -whatever of the existence of these walls, for Leland begins his -description of the town with the words ‘<i>Richemont</i> Towne is waullid,’ -and in another place he says: ‘Waullid it was, but the waul is now -decayid. The Names and Partes of 4 or 5 Gates yet remaine.’ He also -tells us the names of some of these gates: ‘<i>Frenchegate</i> yn the North -Parte of the Towne, and is the most occupied Gate of the Towne. -<i>Finkel-streate Gate, Bargate</i>, all iii be downe.’ Leland also details -how the wall enclosed little beside the market-place, the houses -adjoining it, and the gardens behind them, and that the area occupied by -the castle was practically the same as that of the town. We wonder why -Richmond could not have preserved her gates as York has done, or why she -did not even make the effort sufficient to retain a single one, as -Bridlington and Beverley did. The two posterns—one we have just -mentioned, and the other in Friar’s Wynd, on the north side of the -market-place, with a piece of wall 6 feet thick adjoining—are -interesting, but we would have preferred something much finer than these -mere arches; and while we are grumbling over what Richmond has lost, we -may also measure the disaster which befell the market-place in 1771,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_023" id="page_023"></a>{23}</span> -when the old cross was destroyed. Before that year there stood on the -site of the present obelisk a very fine cross which Clarkson, who wrote -about a century ago, mentions as being the greatest beauty of the town -to an antiquary. A high flight of steps led up to a square platform, -which was enclosed by a richly ornamented wall about 6 feet high, having -buttresses at the corners, each surmounted with a dog seated on its -hind-legs. Within the wall rose the cross, with its shaft made from one -piece of stone. There were ‘many curious compartments’ in the wall, says -Clarkson, and ‘a door that opened into the middle of the square,’ but -this may have been merely an arched opening. The enrichments, either of -the cross itself or the wall, included four shields bearing the arms of -the great families of Fitz-Hugh, Scrope (quartering Tibetot), Conyers, -and Neville. From the description there is little doubt that this cross -was a very beautiful example of Perpendicular or perhaps Decorated -Gothic, in place of which we have a crude and bulging obelisk bearing -the inscription: ‘Rebuilt (!) <small>A.D.</small> 1771, Christopher Wayne, Esq., -Mayor’; it should surely have read: ‘Perpetrated during the Mayoralty of -Christopher Wayne, Goth.’ The old cross was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a>{24}</span> pulled down ‘for particular -reasons,’ says Clarkson, but, even if those reasons had been valid, the -stones might have been carefully marked, and the whole structure could -have been rebuilt in some other part of the market-place.</p> - -<p>Although, as we have seen, Leland, who wrote in 1538, mentions -Frenchgate and Finkel Street Gate as ‘down,’ yet they must have been -only partially destroyed, or were rebuilt afterwards, for Whitaker, -writing in 1823, mentions that they were pulled down ‘not many years -ago’ to allow the passage of broad and high-laden waggons. There can be -little doubt, therefore, that, swollen with success after the demolition -of the cross, the Mayor and Corporation proceeded to attack the -remaining gateways, so that now not the smallest suggestion of either -remains. But even here we have not completed the list of barbarisms that -took place about this time. The Barley Cross, which stood near the -larger one, must have been quite an interesting feature. It consisted of -a lofty pillar with a cross at the top, and rings were fastened either -on the shaft or to the steps upon which it stood, so that the cross -might answer the purpose of a whipping-post. The pillory stood not far -away, and the may-pole is also mentioned.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_025" id="page_025"></a>{25}</span></p> - -<p>But despite all this squandering of the treasures that it should have -been the business of the town authorities to preserve, the tower of the -Grey Friars has survived, and, next to the castle, it is one of the -chief ornaments of the town. Whitaker is by no means sure of the motives -that led to its preservation—perhaps because he knew the Richmond -people too well to expect much of them—for he writes: ‘Taste, however, -or veneration, or lucky accident, has preserved the great tower of the -“Freres” of Richmond.’ Certainly none of these causes saved any other -portions of the buildings, for the beautiful Perpendicular tower stands -quite alone. It is on the north side of the town, outside the narrow -limits of the walls, and was probably only finished in time to witness -the dispersal of the friars who had built it. It is even possible that -it was part of a new church that was still incomplete when the -Dissolution of the Monasteries made the work of no account except as -building materials for the townsfolk. The actual day of the surrender -was January 19, 1538, and we wonder if Robert Sanderson, the Prior, and -the fourteen brethren under him, suffered much from the privations that -must have attended them at that coldest period of the year. At<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_026" id="page_026"></a>{26}</span> one time -the friars, being of a mendicant order, and inured to hard living and -scanty fare, might have made light of such a disaster, but in these -later times they had expanded somewhat from their austere ways of -living, and the dispersal must have cost them much suffering. Almost in -this actual year Leland writes of ‘their Howse, Medow, Orchard, and a -litle Wood,’ which he mentions as being walled in, and, seeing that the -wall enclosed nearly sixteen acres, it appears probable that the -gray-cloaked men can scarcely have been ignorant of all the luxuries of -life. Notwithstanding this, they stoutly refused to acknowledge the -King’s supremacy, and suffered accordingly.</p> - -<p>Going back to the reign of Henry VII. or thereabouts, we come across the -curious ballad of ‘The Felon Sow of Rokeby and the Freres of Richmond’ -quoted from an old manuscript by Sir Walter Scott in ‘Rokeby.’ It may -have been as a practical joke, or merely as a good way of getting rid of -such a terrible beast, that</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘Ralph of Rokeby, with goodwill,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The fryers of Richmond gaver her till.’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_027" id="page_027"></a>{27}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">Friar Middleton, who with two lusty men was sent to fetch the sow from -Rokeby, could scarcely have known that she was</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘The grisliest beast that ere might be,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Her head was great and gray:<br /></span> -<span class="i1">She was bred in Rokeby Wood;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">There were few that thither goed,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">That came on live [= alive] away.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘She was so grisley for to meete,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">She rave the earth up with her feete,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And bark came fro the tree;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">When fryer Middleton her saugh,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Weet ye well he might not laugh,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Full earnestly look’d hee.’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">To calm the terrible beast when they found it almost impossible to hold -her, the friar began to read ‘in St. John his Gospell,’ but</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘The sow she would not Latin heare,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">But rudely rushed at the frear,’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">who, turning very white, dodged to the shelter of a tree, whence he saw -with horror that the sow had got clear of the other two men. At this -their courage evaporated, and all three fled for their lives along the -Watling Street. When they came to Richmond and told their tale of the -‘feind of hell’ in the garb of a sow, the warden decided to hire on the -next day two of the ‘boldest<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_028" id="page_028"></a>{28}</span> men that ever were borne.’ These two, -Gilbert Griffin and a ‘bastard son of Spaine,’ went to Rokeby clad in -armour and carrying their shields and swords of war, and even then they -only just overcame the grisly sow. They lifted the dead brute on to the -back of a horse, so that it rested across the two panniers,</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘And to Richmond they did hay:<br /></span> -<span class="i1">When they saw her come,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">They sang merrily <i>Te Deum</i>,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The fryers on that day.’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>If we go across the river by the modern bridge, we can see the humble -remains of St. Martin’s Priory standing in a meadow by the railway. The -ruins consist of part of a Perpendicular tower and a Norman doorway. -Perhaps the tower was built in order that the Grey Friars might not -eclipse the older foundation, for St. Martin’s was a cell belonging to -St. Mary’s Abbey at York, and was founded by Wyman, steward or dapifer -to the Earl of Richmond about the year 1100, whereas the Franciscans in -the town owed their establishment to Radulph Fitz-Ranulph, a lord of -Middleham in 1258. The doorway of St. Martin’s, with its zigzag -mouldings, must be part of Wyman’s building, but no other traces of it -remain.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_029" id="page_029"></a>{29}</span> Having come back so rapidly to the Norman age, we may well stay -there for a time while we make our way over the bridge again and up the -steep ascent of Frenchgate to the castle.</p> - -<p>On entering the small outer barbican, which is reached by a lane from -the market-place, we come to the base of the Norman keep. Its great -height of nearly 100 feet is quite unbroken from foundations to summit, -and the flat buttresses are featureless. The recent pointing of the -masonry has also taken away any pronounced weathering, and has left the -tower with almost the same gaunt appearance that it had when Duke Conan -saw it completed. Passing through the arch in the wall abutting the -keep, we come into the grassy space of over two acres, that is enclosed -by the ramparts. There are some modern quarters for soldiers on the -western side which we had not noticed before, and the grass is levelled -in places for lawn tennis, but we had not expected to discover imposing -views inside the walls, where the advantage of the cliffs is lost. We do -find, however, architectural details which are missing outside. The -basement of the keep was vaulted in a massive fashion in the Decorated -period, but the walls are probably those of the first Earl Alan, who was -the first ‘Frenchman’ who<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_030" id="page_030"></a>{30}</span> owned the great part of Yorkshire which had -formerly belonged to Edwin, the Saxon Earl. It is not definitely known -by what stages the keep reached its present form, though there is every -reason to believe that Conan, the fifth Earl of Richmond, left the tower -externally as we see it to-day. This puts the date of the completion of -the keep between 1146 and 1171. The floors are now a store for the -uniforms and accoutrements of the soldiers quartered at Richmond, so -that there is little to be seen as we climb a staircase in the walls, 11 -feet thick, and reach the battlemented turrets. Looking downwards, we -gaze right into the chimneys of the nearest houses, and we see the old -roofs of the town packed closely together in the shelter of the mighty -tower. A few tiny people are moving about in the market-place, and there -is a thin web of drifting smoke between us and them. Everything is -peaceful and remote; even the sound of the river is lost in the wind -that blows freely upon us from the great moorland wastes stretching away -to the western horizon. It is a romantic country that lays around us, -and though the cultivated area must be infinitely greater than in the -fighting days when these battlements were finished, yet I suppose the -Vale<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_031" id="page_031"></a>{31}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_003" id="ill_003"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a href="images/ill_004_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_004_sml.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">RICHMOND FROM THE WEST</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">From</span> this point of view, a great stretch of fertile and richly wooded -country is seen. The mediæval-looking town, perched on its rocky height -above one of the deep windings of the Swale, plainly shows how its name -of the Rich Mount suggested itself. The castle keep shows most -prominently, but to the left of it can be seen the Grey Friar’s Tower -and those of the two churches.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">of Mowbray which we gaze upon to the east must have been green, and to -some extent fertile, when that Conan who was Duke of Brittany and also -Earl of Richmond looked out over the innumerable manors that were his -Yorkshire possessions. I can imagine his eye glancing down on a far more -thrilling scene than the green three-sided courtyard enclosed by a -crumbling gray wall, though to him the buildings, the men, and every -detail that filled the great space, were no doubt quite prosaic. It did -not thrill him to see a man-at-arms cleaning weapons, when the man and -his clothes, and even the sword, were as modern and everyday as the -soldier’s wife and child that we can see ourselves, but how much would -we not give for a half an hour of his vision, or even a part of a -second, with a good camera in our hands?</p> - -<p>Instead of wasting time on vain thoughts of this character, it would -perhaps be wiser to go down and examine the actual remains of these -times that have survived all the intervening centuries.</p> - -<p>In the lower part of what is called Robin Hood’s Tower is the Chapel of -St. Nicholas, with arcaded walls of early Norman date, and a long and -narrow slit forming the east window. More interesting<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_032" id="page_032"></a>{32}</span> than this is the -Norman hall at the south-east angle of the walls. It was possibly used -as the banqueting-room of the castle, and is remarkable as being one of -the best preserved of the Norman halls forming separate buildings that -are to be found in this country. The hall is roofless, but the corbels -remain in a perfect state, and the windows on each side are well -preserved. The builder was probably Earl Conan, for the keep has details -of much the same character. It is generally called Scolland’s Hall, -after the Lord of Bedale of that name, who was a sewer or dapifer to the -first Earl Alan of Richmond. Scolland was one of the tenants of the -Earl, and under the feudal system of tenure he took part in the regular -guarding of the castle.</p> - -<p>There is probably much Norman work in various parts of the crumbling -curtain walls, and at the south-west corner a Norman turret is still to -be seen.</p> - -<p>Unless the Romans established at Catterick had a station there, it seems -very probable that before the Norman Conquest the actual site of -Richmond was entirely vacant; for, though the Domesday Survey makes -mention of one or two names that indicate some lost villages in the -neighbourhood, there are no traces in the town of anything earlier<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_033" id="page_033"></a>{33}</span> than -the Norman period. No stones of Saxon origin, so far as evidence exists, -have come to light during any restorations of the churches, and the only -suggestion of anything pre-Norman is Leland’s mention of those ‘idoles’ -that were in his time to be seen in the walls of Holy Trinity Church.</p> - -<p>For some reason this magnificent position for a stronghold was -overlooked by the Saxons, the seat of their government in this part of -Yorkshire being at Gilling, less than three miles to the north. The -importance of this place, which is now nothing more than a village, is -shown by the fact that it gave its name to the Gillingshire of early -times as well as to the wapentakes of Gilling East and Gilling West. -There was no naturally defensive site for a castle at Gilling, and the -new owners of the land familiar with the enormous advantages of such -sites as Falaise and Domfront were not slow to discover the bold cliff -above the Swale just to the south. Alan Rufus, one of the sons of the -Duke of Brittany, who received from the Conqueror the vast possessions -of Earl Edwin, was no doubt the founder of Richmond. He probably -received this splendid reward for his services soon after the -suppression of the Saxon efforts for liberty under the northern Earls.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_034" id="page_034"></a>{34}</span> -William, having crushed out the rebellion in the remorseless fashion -which finally gave him peace in his new possessions, distributed the -devastated Saxon lands among his supporters; thus a great part of the -earldom of Mercia fell to this Breton.</p> - -<p>The site of Richmond was fixed as the new centre of power, and the name, -with its apparently obvious meaning, may date from that time, unless the -suggested Anglo-Saxon derivation which gives it as Rice-munt—the hill -of rule—is correct. After this Gilling must soon have ceased to be of -any account. There can be little doubt that the castle was at once -planned to occupy the whole area enclosed by the walls as they exist -to-day, although the full strength of the place was not realized until -the time of the fifth Earl, who, as we have seen, was most probably the -builder of the keep in its final form, as well as other parts of the -castle. Richmond must then have been considered almost impregnable, and -this may account for the fact that it appears to have never been -besieged. In 1174, when William the Lion of Scotland was invading -England, we are told in Jordan Fantosme’s Chronicle that Henry II., -anxious for the safety of the honour of Richmond, and perhaps of its<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_035" id="page_035"></a>{35}</span> -custodian as well, asked: ‘Randulf de Glanvile est-il en Richemunt?’ The -King was in France, his possessions were threatened from several -quarters, and it would doubtless be a relief to him to know that a -stronghold of such importance was under the personal command of so able -a man as Glanville. In July of that year the danger from the Scots was -averted by a victory at Alnwick, in which fight Glanville was one of the -chief commanders of the English, and he probably led the men of -Richmondshire.</p> - -<p>It is a strange thing that Richmond Castle, despite its great -pre-eminence, should have been allowed to become a ruin in the reign of -Edward III.—a time when castles had obviously lost none of the -advantages to the barons which they had possessed in Norman times. The -only explanation must have been the divided interests of the owners, -for, as Dukes of Brittany, as well as Earls of Richmond, their English -possessions were frequently endangered when France and England were at -war. And so it came about that when a Duke of Brittany gave his support -to the King of France in a quarrel with the English, his possessions -north of the Channel became Crown property. How such a condition<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_036" id="page_036"></a>{36}</span> of -affairs could have continued for so long is difficult to understand, but -the final severing came at last, when the unhappy Richard II. was on the -throne of England. The honour of Richmond then passed to Ralph Neville, -the first Earl of Westmoreland, but the title was given to Edmund Tudor, -whose mother was Queen Catherine, the widow of Henry V. Edmund Tudor, as -all know, married Margaret Beaufort, the heiress of John of Gaunt, and -died about two months before his wife—then scarcely fourteen years -old—gave birth to his only son, who succeeded to the throne of England -as Henry VII. He was Earl of Richmond from his birth, and it was he who -carried the name to the Thames by giving it to his splendid palace which -he built at Shene. Even the ballad of ‘The Lass of Richmond Hill’ is -said to come from Yorkshire, although it is commonly considered a -possession of Surrey.</p> - -<p>Protected by the great castle, there came into existence the town of -Richmond, which grew and flourished. The houses must have been packed -closely together to provide the numerous people with quarters inside the -wall which was built to protect the place from the raiding Scots. The -area of the town was scarcely larger than the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_037" id="page_037"></a>{37}</span> castle, and although in -this way the inhabitants gained security from one danger, they ran a -greater risk from a far more insidious foe, which took the form of -pestilences of a most virulent character. After one of these visitations -the town of Richmond would be left in a pitiable plight. Many houses -would be deserted, and fields became ‘overrun with briars, nettles, and -other noxious weeds.’</p> - -<p>There is a record of the desolation and misery that was found to exist -in Richmond during the reign of Edward III. A plague had carried off -about 2,000 people; the Scots, presumably before the building of the -wall, had by their inroads added to the distress in the town, and the -castle was in such a state of dilapidation as to be worth nothing a -year. In the thirteenth century Richmond had been the mart of a very -large district. It was a great centre for the distribution of corn, and -goods were brought from Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland to be -sold in the market on Saturdays. Such an extensive trade produced a -large class of burgesses, merchants, and craftsmen, who were -sufficiently numerous to form themselves into no less than thirteen -separate guilds. There were the mercers, grocers, and haberdashers -united into one company; the glovers and skinners, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_038" id="page_038"></a>{38}</span> combined under -the name of fellmongers. There were the butchers, tailors, tanners, -blacksmiths, and cappers, who kept themselves apart as distinct -companies; and the remaining nineteen trades were massed together in six -guilds, such ill-assorted people as drapers, vintners, and surgeons -going together. With various charters, giving all sorts of rights and -immunities, these companies survived the disasters which befell the -place, although the growth of other market towns, such as Bedale, -Masham, and Middleham, undermined their position, and sometimes gave -rise to loud complaints and petitions to be eased of the payments by -which the citizens held their charter. With keen competition to contend -against, the poor Richmond folk must have thought their lot a miserable -one when a fresh pestilential scourge was inflicted upon them.</p> - -<p>The first death took place on August 17, 1597, when Roger Sharp -succumbed to a disease which spread with such rapidity that by December -15 in the following year 1,050 had died within the parish, and -altogether there were 2,200 deaths in the rural deanery of Richmond. -This plague was by no means confined to Richmond, and so great was the -mortality that the assizes at Durham were not held,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_039" id="page_039"></a>{39}</span> and business -generally in the northern parts of England was paralyzed.</p> - -<p>In the Civil War the town was spared the disaster of a siege, perhaps -because the castle was not in a proper state for defence. If fighting -had occurred, there is little doubt that the keep would have been -partially wrecked, as at Scarborough, and Richmond would have lost the -distinction of possessing such an imposing feature.</p> - -<p>As soon as one digs down a little into the story of a town with so rich -a history as this, it is tantalizing not to go deeper. One would like to -study every record that throws light on the events that were associated -with the growth of both the castle and the town, so that one might -discard the mistakes of the earlier writers and build up such a picture -of feudal times as few places in England could equal. Richmond of to-day -is so silent, so lacking in pageantry, that one must needs go to some -lonely spot, and there dream of all the semi-barbarous splendours that -the old walls have looked down upon when the cement between the great -stones still bore the marks of the masons’ trowels. One thinks of the -days when the occupants of the castle were newly come from Brittany, -when an alien tongue was heard on this cliff above the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_040" id="page_040"></a>{40}</span> Swale, even as -had happened when the riverside echoes had had to accustom themselves to -an earlier change when Romans had laughed and talked on the same spot. -The men one dreams of are wearing suits of chain mail, or are in the -dress so quaintly drawn in the tapestry at Bayeux, and they have brought -with them their wives, their servants, and even their dogs. Thus -Richmond began as a foreign town, and the folks ate and drank and slept -as they had always done before they left France. Much of this alien -blood was no doubt absorbed by the already mixed Anglo-Saxon and Danish -population of Yorkshire, and perhaps, if his descent could be traced, -one would find that the passer-by who has just disturbed our dreaming -has Breton blood in his veins.</p> - -<p>Easby Abbey is so much a possession of Richmond that we cannot go -towards the mountains until we have seen something of its charms. The -ruins slumber in such unutterable peace by the riverside that the place -is well suited to our mood to go a-dreaming of the centuries which have -been so long dead that our imaginations are not cumbered with any of the -dull times that may have often set the canons of St. Agatha’s yawning. -The walk along the steep shady bank above the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_041" id="page_041"></a>{41}</span> river is beautiful all -the way, and the surroundings of the broken walls and traceried windows -are singularly rich. There is nothing, however, at Easby that makes a -striking picture, although there are many architectural fragments that -are full of beauty. Fountains, Rievaulx and Tintern, all leave Easby far -behind, but there are charms enough here with which to be content, and -it is, perhaps, a pleasant thought to know that, although on this sunny -afternoon these meadows by the Swale seem to reach perfection, yet in -the neighbourhood of Ripon there is something still finer waiting for -us. Of the abbey church scarcely more than enough has survived for the -preparation of a ground-plan, and many of the evidences are now -concealed by the grass. The range of domestic buildings that surrounded -the cloister garth are, therefore, the chief interest, although these -also are broken and roofless. We can wander among the ivy-grown walls -which, in the refectory, retain some semblance of their original form, -and we can see the picturesque remains of the common-room, the -guest-hall, the chapter-house, and the sacristy. Beyond the ruins of the -north transept, a corridor leads into the infirmary, which, besides -having an unusual position, is remarkable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_042" id="page_042"></a>{42}</span> as being one of the most -complete groups of buildings set apart for this object. A noticeable -feature of the cloister garth is a Norman arch belonging to a doorway -that appears to be of later date. This is probably the only survival of -the first monastery founded, it is said, by Roald, Constable of Richmond -Castle in 1152. Building of an extensive character was, therefore, in -progress at the same time in these sloping meadows, as on the castle -heights, and St. Martin’s Priory, close to the town, had not long been -completed. Whoever may have been the founder of the abbey, it is -definitely known that the great family of Scrope obtained the privileges -that had been possessed by the constable, and they added so much to the -property of the monastery that in the reign of Henry VIII. the Scropes -were considered the original founders. Easby thus became the stately -burying-place of the family, and the splendid tombs that appeared in the -choir of their church were a constant reminder to the canons of the -greatness of the lords of Bolton. Sir Henry le Scrope was buried beneath -a great stone effigy, bearing the arms—azure, a bend or—of his house. -Near by lay Sir William le Scrope’s armed figure, and round about were -many others of the family<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_043" id="page_043"></a>{43}</span> buried beneath flat stones. We know this from -the statement of an Abbot of Easby in the fourteenth century; and but -for the record of his words there would be nothing to tell us anything -of these ponderous memorials, which have disappeared as completely as -though they had had no more permanence than the yellow leaves that are -just beginning to flutter from the trees. The splendid church, the -tombs, and even the very family of Scrope, have disappeared; but across -the hills, in the valley of the Ure, their castle still stands, and in -the little church of Wensley there can still be seen the parclose screen -of Perpendicular date that one of the Scropes must have rescued when the -monastery was being stripped and plundered.</p> - -<p>The fine gatehouse of Easby Abbey, which is in a good state of -preservation, stands a little to the east of the parish church, and the -granary is even now in use.</p> - -<p>On the sides of the parvise over the porch of the parish church are the -arms of Scrope, Conyers, and Aske; and in the chancel of this extremely -interesting old building there can be seen a series of wall-paintings, -some of which probably date from the reign of Henry III. This would make -them earlier than those at Pickering.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_044" id="page_044"></a>{44}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_045" id="page_045"></a>{45}</span> </p> - -<h2><a name="SWALEDALE" id="SWALEDALE"></a>SWALEDALE</h2> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_046" id="page_046"></a>{46}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_047" id="page_047"></a>{47}</span> </p> - -<h3><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III<br /><br /> -<small>SWALEDALE</small></h3> -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">There</span> is a certain elevated and wind-swept spot, scarcely more than a -long mile from Richmond, that commands a view over a wide extent of -romantic country. Vantage-points of this type, within easy reach of a -fair-sized town, are inclined to be overrated, and, what is far worse, -to be spoiled by the litter of picnic parties; but Whitcliffe Scar is -free from both objections. In magnificent September weather one may -spend many hours in the midst of this great panorama without being -disturbed by a single human being, besides a possible farm labourer or -shepherd; and if scraps of paper and orange-peel are ever dropped here, -the keen winds that come from across the moors dispose of them as -efficaciously as the keepers of any public parks.</p> - -<p>The view is removed from a comparison with many others from the fact -that one is situated at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_048" id="page_048"></a>{48}</span> the dividing-line between the richest -cultivation and the wildest moorlands. Whitcliffe Scar is the Mount -Pisgah from whence the jaded dweller in towns can gaze into a promised -land of solitude,</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘Where things that own not man’s dominion dwell,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And mortal foot hath ne’er or rarely been.’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">The eastward view of green and smiling country is undeniably beautiful, -but to those who can appreciate Byron’s enthusiasm for the trackless -mountain there is something more indefinable and inspiring in the -mysterious loneliness of the west. The long, level lines of the moorland -horizon, when the sun is beginning to climb downwards, are cut out in -the softest blue and mauve tints against the shimmering transparency of -the western sky, and the plantations that clothe the sides of the dale -beneath one are filled with wonderful shadows, which are thrown out with -golden outlines. The view along the steep valley extends for a few -miles, and then is suddenly cut off by a sharp bend where the Swale, a -silver ribbon along the bottom of the dale, disappears among the sombre -woods and the shoulders of the hills.</p> - -<p>In this aspect of Swaledale one sees its mildest and most civilized -mood; for beyond the purple<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_049" id="page_049"></a>{49}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_004" id="ill_004"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a href="images/ill_005_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_005_sml.jpg" width="500" height="349" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">SWALEDALE IN THE EARLY AUTUMN</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> view is taken from a spot just above Richmond, known as Willance’s -Leap. One is looking due west, with the high mountains of Craven just -beyond the blue plateau.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">hillside that may be seen in the illustration, cultivation becomes more -palpably a struggle, and the gaunt moors, broken by lines of precipitous -scars, assume control of the scenery.</p> - -<p>From 200 feet below, where the river is flowing along its stony bed, -comes the sound of the waters ceaselessly grinding the pebbles, and from -the green pastures there floats upwards a distant ba-baaing. No railway -has penetrated the solitudes of Swaledale, and, as far as one may look -into the future in such matters, there seems every possibility of this -loneliest and grandest of the Yorkshire dales retaining its isolation in -this respect. None but the simplest of sounds, therefore, are borne on -the keen winds that come from the moorland heights, and the purity of -the air whispers in the ear the pleasing message of a land where -chimneys have never been.</p> - -<p>Besides the original name of Whitcliffe Scar, this remarkable view-point -has, since 1606, been popularly known as ‘Willance’s Leap.’ In that year -a certain Robert Willance, whose father appears to have been a -successful draper in Richmond, was hunting in the neighbourhood, when he -found himself enveloped in a fog. It must have been sufficiently dense -to shut out even the nearest<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_050" id="page_050"></a>{50}</span> objects; for, without any warning, -Willance found himself on the verge of the scar, and before he could -check his horse both were precipitated over the cliff. We have no -detailed account of whether the fall was broken in any way; but, -although his horse was killed instantly, Willance, by some almost -miraculous good fortune, found himself alive at the bottom with nothing -worse than a broken leg. Such a story must have been the talk of the -whole of the Dale Country for months after the event, and it is in no -way surprising that the spot should have become permanently associated -with the rider’s name. He certainly felt grateful for his astonishing -escape, despite the amputation of the broken limb; for, besides the -erection of some inscribed stones that still mark the position of his -fall from the cliff, Willance, in order to further commemorate the -event, presented the Corporation of Richmond with a silver cup, which -remains in the possession of the town.</p> - -<p>Turning back towards Richmond, the contrast of the gently-rounded -contours and the rich cultivation gives the landscape the appearance of -a vast garden. One can see the great Norman keep of the castle dwarfing -the church towers, and the red-roofed houses that cluster so -picturesquely<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_051" id="page_051"></a>{51}</span> under its shelter. The afternoon sunlight floods -everything with its generous glow, and the shadows of the trees massed -on the hill-slopes are singularly blue. At the bottom of the valley the -Swale abandons its green meadows for a time, and disappears into the -deep and leafy gorge that adds so much to the charm of Richmond. Beyond -the town the course of the river can be traced as it takes its way past -Easby Abbey and the sunny slopes crowned with woods that go down on -either side to its sparkling waters, until the level plain confuses -every feature in a maze of hedgerow and coppice that loses itself in the -hazy horizon.</p> - -<p>It is a difficult matter to decide which is the more attractive means of -exploring Swaledale; for if one keeps to the road at the bottom of the -valley many beautiful and remarkable aspects of the country are missed, -and yet if one goes over the moors it is impossible to really explore -the recesses of the dale. The old road from Richmond to Reeth avoids the -dale altogether, except for the last mile, and its ups and its downs -make the traveller pay handsomely for the scenery by the way. But this -ought not to deter anyone from using the road; for the view of the -village of Marske, cosily situated among the wooded heights that rise -above the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_052" id="page_052"></a>{52}</span> beck, is missed by those who keep to the new road along the -banks of the Swale. The romantic seclusion of this village is -accentuated towards evening, when a shadowy stillness fills the hollows. -The higher woods may be still glowing with the light of the golden west, -while down below a softness of outline adds beauty to every object. The -old bridge that takes the road to Reeth across Marske Beck needs no such -fault-forgiving light, for it was standing in the reign of Elizabeth, -and, from its appearance, it is probably centuries older. There used to -be a quaint little mill close to the bridge, but this was, -unfortunately, swept away when some alterations were being made in the -surroundings of Marske Hall, a seat of the Huttons. It was one of this -family, in whose hands the manor of Marske has remained for over 300 -years, to whom the idea occurred of converting what was formerly a -precipitous ravine, with bare rocky scars on either side, into the -heavily wooded and romantic spot one finds to-day. Beyond the -beautifying of this little branch valley of Swaledale, the Huttons are a -notable family in having produced two Archbishops. They both bore the -same name of Matthew Hutton. The first, who is mentioned by Thomas -Fuller in his ‘Worthies’ as ‘a learned Prelate,’ was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_053" id="page_053"></a>{53}</span> raised to the -Archbishopric of York from Durham in 1594. This Matthew Hutton seems to -have found favour with Elizabeth, for, beyond his rapid progress in the -Church, there is still preserved in Marske Hall a gold cup presented to -him by the Queen.<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> The second Archbishop was promoted from Bangor to -York, and finally to Canterbury in 1757.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> Murray.</p></div> - -<p>Rising above the woods near Marske Hall there appears a tall obelisk, -put up to the memory of Captain Matthew Hutton about a century ago, when -that type of memorial had gained a prodigious popularity. An obelisk -towering above a plantation can scarcely be considered an attractive -feature in a landscape, for its outline is too strongly suggestive of a -mine-shaft; but how can one hope to find beauty in any of the -architectural efforts of a period that seems to have been dead to art?</p> - -<p>The new road to Reeth from Richmond goes down at an easy gradient from -the town to the banks of the river, which it crosses when abreast of -Whitcliffe Scar, the view in front being at first much the same as the -nearer portions of the dale seen from that height. Down on the left, -however, there are some chimney-shafts, so recklessly black<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_054" id="page_054"></a>{54}</span> that they -seem to be no part whatever of their sumptuous natural surroundings, and -might almost suggest a nightmare in which one discovered that some of -the vilest chimneys of the Black Country had taken to touring in the -beauty spots of the country.</p> - -<p>As one goes westward, the road penetrates right into the bold scenery -that invites exploration when viewed from ‘Willance’s Leap.’ There is a -Scottish feeling—perhaps Alpine would be more correct—in the -steeply-falling sides of the dale, all clothed in firs and other dense -plantations; and just where the Swale takes a decided turn towards the -south there is a view up Marske Beck that adds much to the romance of -the scene. Behind one’s back the side of the dale rises like a dark -green wall entirely in shadow, and down below, half buried in foliage, -the river swirls and laps its gravelly beaches, also in shadow. Beyond a -strip of pasture begin the tumbled masses of trees which, as they climb -out of the depths of the valley, reach the warm, level rays of sunlight -that turns the first leaves that have passed their prime into the fierce -yellows and burnt siennas which, when faithfully represented at -Burlington House, are often considered overdone. Even the gaunt obelisk -near Marske Hall responds<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_055" id="page_055"></a>{55}</span> to a fine sunset of this sort, and shows a -gilded side that gives it almost a touch of grandeur.</p> - -<p>Evening is by no means necessary to the attractions of Swaledale, for a -blazing noon gives lights and shades and contrasts of colour that are a -large portion of Swaledale’s charms. If instead of taking either the old -road by way of Marske, or the new one by the riverside, one had crossed -the old bridge below the castle, and left Richmond by a very steep road -that goes to Leyburn, one would have reached a moorland that is at its -best in the full light of a clear morning. The road goes through the -gray little village of Hudswell, which possesses some half-destroyed -cottages that give it a forlorn and even pathetic character. As one goes -on towards the open plateau of Downholme Moor, a sense of keen regret -will force itself upon the mind; for here, in this gloriously healthy -air, there are cottages in excess of the demand, and away in the great -centres of labour, where the atmosphere is lifeless and smoke-begrimed, -overcrowding is a perpetual evil. Perhaps the good folks who might have -been dwelling in Hudswell, or some other breezy village, prefer their -surroundings in some gloomy street in Sheffield; perhaps those who lived -in these broken little homes died long ago, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_056" id="page_056"></a>{56}</span> there are none who sigh -for space and air after the fashion of caged larks; perhaps—— But we -have reached a gate now, and when we are through it and out on the bare -brown expanse, with the ‘wide horizons beckoning’ on every side, the -wind carries away every gloomy thought, and leaves in its place one vast -optimism, which is, I suppose, the joy of living, and one of God’s best -gifts to man.</p> - -<p>The clouds are big, but they carry no threat of rain, for right down to -the far horizon from whence this wind is coming there are patches of -blue proportionate to the vast spaces overhead. As each white mass -passes across the sun, we are immersed in a shadow many acres in extent; -but the sunlight has scarcely fled when a rim of light comes over the -edge of the plain, just above the hollow where Downholme village lies -hidden from sight, and in a few minutes that belt of sunshine has -reached some sheep not far off, and rimmed their coats with a brilliant -edge of white. Shafts of whiteness, like searchlights, stream from -behind a distant cloud, and everywhere there is brilliant contrast and a -purity to the eye and lungs that only a Yorkshire moor possesses.</p> - -<p>Making our way along a grassy track, we cross the heather and bent, and -go down an easy<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_057" id="page_057"></a>{57}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_005" id="ill_005"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a href="images/ill_006_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_006_sml.jpg" width="500" height="356" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">DOWNHOLME MOORE, ABOVE SWALEDALE</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Wide horizons beckoning, far beyond the hill,<br /></span> -<span class="thb">. . . . . .</span><br /> -<span class="i1">Greatness overhead,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The flock’s contented tread<br /></span> -<span class="i1">An’ trample o’ the morning wind adown the open trail.”<br /></span> -<span class="i18">H. H. <span class="smcap">Bashford</span>.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> -<p class="nind">slope towards the gray roofs of Downholme. The situation is pretty, and -there is a triangular green beyond the inn; but, owing to the church -being some distance away, the village seems to lack in features.</p> - -<p>A short two miles up the road to Leyburn, just above Gill Beck, there is -an ancient house known as Walburn Hall, and also the remains of the -chapel belonging to it, which dates from the Perpendicular period. The -buildings are now used as a farm, but there are still enough suggestions -of a dignified past to revivify the times when this was a centre of -feudal power. Although the architecture is not Norman, there is a -fragment in one of the walls that seems to indicate an earlier house -belonging to the Walburns, for one of them—Wymer de Walburn—held a -certain number of oxgangs of land there in 1286.</p> - -<p>Turning back to Swaledale by a lane on the south side of Gill Beck, -Downholme village is passed a mile away on the right, and the bold -scenery of the dale once more becomes impressive. The sunshine has -entirely gone now, and, although there are still some hours of daylight -left, the ponderous masses of blue-gray cloud that have slowly spread -themselves from one horizon to the other have caused a gloom to take the -place of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_058" id="page_058"></a>{58}</span> morning’s dazzling sunshine. When we get lower down, and -have a glimpse of the Swale over the hedge, a most imposing scene is -suddenly visible. We would have illustrated it here, but the Dale -Country is so prolific in its noble views that a selection of twenty -pictures must of pure necessity do injustice to the many scenes it -omits.</p> - -<p>Two great headlands, formed by the wall-like terminations of Cogden and -Harkerside Moors, rising one above the other, stand out magnificently. -Their huge sides tower up nearly a thousand feet from the river, until -they are within reach of the lowering clouds that every moment threaten -to envelop them in their indigo embrace. There is a curious rift in the -dark cumulus revealing a thin line of dull carmine that frequently -changes its shape and becomes nearly obliterated, but its presence in no -way weakens the awesomeness of the picture. The dale appears to become -huger and steeper as the clouds thicken, and what have been merely woods -and plantations in this heavy gloom become mysterious forests. The -river, too, seems to change its character, and become a pale serpent, -uncoiling itself from some mountain fastness where no living creatures, -besides great auks and carrion birds, dwell.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_059" id="page_059"></a>{59}</span></p> - -<p>In such surroundings as these there were established in the Middle Ages -two religious houses, within a mile of one another, on opposite sides of -the swirling river. On the north bank, not far from Marrick village, you -may still see the ruins of Marrick Priory in its beautiful situation -much as Turner painted it a century ago. Leland describes Marrick as ‘a -Priory of Blake Nunnes of the Foundation of the Askes.’ It was, we know, -an establishment for Benedictine Nuns, founded or endowed by Roger de -Aske in the twelfth century. At Ellerton, on the other side of the river -a little lower down, the nunnery was of the Cistercian Order; for, -although very little of its history has been discovered, Leland writes -of the house as ‘a Priori of White clothid Nunnes.’ After the Battle of -Bannockburn, when the Scots raided all over the North Riding of -Yorkshire, they came along Swaledale in search of plunder, and we are -told that Ellerton suffered from their violence. The ruins that -witnessed these scenes remain most provokingly silent, and Heaven knows -if they ever echoed to the cries of the defenceless nuns or the coarse -laughter of the Scots, for the remains tell us nothing at all.</p> - -<p>Where the dale becomes wider, owing to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_060" id="page_060"></a>{60}</span> branch valley of -Arkengarthdale, there are two villages close together. Grinton is -reached first, and is older than Reeth, which is a short distance north -of the river. The parish of Grinton is one of the largest in Yorkshire. -It is more than twenty miles long, containing something near 50,000 -acres, and according to Mr. Speight, who has written a very detailed -history of Richmondshire, more than 30,000 acres of this consist of -mountain, grouse-moor, and scar. For so huge a parish the church is -suitable in size, but in the upper portions of the dales one must not -expect any very remarkable exteriors; and Grinton, with its low roofs -and plain battlemented tower, is much like other churches in the -neighbourhood. Inside there are suggestions of a Norman building that -has passed away, and the bowl of the font seems also to belong to that -period. The two chapels opening from the chancel contain some -interesting features, which include a hagioscope, and both are enclosed -by old screens.</p> - -<p>Leaving the village behind, and crossing the Swale, you soon come to -Reeth, which may, perhaps, be described as a little town. It must have -thrived with the lead-mines in Arkengarthdale and along the Swale, for -it has gone back since the period of its former prosperity, and is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_061" id="page_061"></a>{61}</span> glad -of the fact that its splendid situation, and the cheerful green which -the houses look upon, have made it something of a holiday resort, -although it still retains its grayness and its simplicity, both of which -may be threatened if a red-roofed hotel were to make its appearance, the -bare thought of which is an anxiety to those who appreciate the soft -colours of the locality.</p> - -<p>When Reeth is left behind, there is no more of the fine ‘new’ road which -makes travelling so easy for the eleven miles from Richmond. The surface -is, however, by no means rough along the nine miles to Muker, although -the scenery becomes far wilder and more mountainous with every mile. The -dale narrows most perceptibly; the woods become widely separated, and -almost entirely disappear on the southern side; and the gaunt moors, -creeping down the sides of the valley, seem to threaten the narrow belt -of cultivation, that becomes increasingly restricted to the river -margins. Precipitous limestone scars fringe the browny-green heights in -many places, and almost girdle the summit of Calver Hill, the great bare -height that rises a thousand feet above Reeth. The farms and hamlets of -these upper parts of Swaledale are of the same grays, greens, and browns -as the moors<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_062" id="page_062"></a>{62}</span> and scars that surround them. The stone walls, that are -often high and forbidding, seem to suggest the fortifications required -for man’s fight with Nature, in which there is no encouragement for the -weak. In the splendid weather that so often welcomes the mere summer -rambler in the upper dales the austerity of the widely scattered farms -and villages may seem a little unaccountable; but a visit in January -would quite remove this impression, though even in these lofty parts of -England the worst winter snowstorm has, in quite recent years, been of -trifling inconvenience. Bad winters will, no doubt, be experienced again -on the fells; but leaving out of the account the snow that used to bury -farms, flocks, roads, and even the smaller gills, in a vast smother of -whiteness, there are still the winds that go shrieking over the desolate -heights, there is still the high rainfall, and there are still -destructive thunderstorms that bring with them hail of a size that we -seldom encounter in the lower levels. Mr. Lockwood records a remarkable -storm near Sedbergh in which there were only three flashes. The first -left senseless on the ground two brothers who were tending sheep, the -second killed three cows that were sheltering under an oak, and the -third unroofed a large portion of a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_063" id="page_063"></a>{63}</span> barn and split up two trees. In -this case the ordinary conditions of thunderstorms would seem to have -been reversed, the electric discharge taking place from the earth to the -clouds; otherwise, it is hard to account for such destruction with each -flash.</p> - -<p>The great rapidity with which the Swale, or such streams as the Arkle, -can produce a devastating flood can scarcely be comprehended by those -who have not seen the results of even moderate rainstorms on the fells. -When, however, some really wet days have been experienced in the upper -parts of the dales, it seems a wonder that the bridges are not more -often in jeopardy. Long lines of pale-gray clouds, with edges so soft -that they almost coalesce, come pressing each other on to the bare -heights, and, almost before one mass has transformed itself into silvery -streaks on the fellsides, there are others pouring down on their -emaciated remains.</p> - -<p>Of course, even the highest hills of Yorkshire are surpassed in wetness -by their Lakeland neighbours; for whereas Hawes Junction, which is only -about seven miles south of Muker, has an average yearly rainfall of -about 62 inches, Mickleden, in Westmoreland, can show 137, and certain -spots in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_064" id="page_064"></a>{64}</span> Cumberland aspire towards 200 inches in a year. No figures -seem to exist for Swaledale, but in the lower parts of Wensleydale the -rainfall is only half of what has been given for Hawes, which stands at -the head of that valley.</p> - -<p>The weather conditions being so severe, it is not surprising to find -that no corn at all is grown in Swaledale at the present day. Some -notes, found in an old family Bible in Teesdale, are quoted by Mr. -Joseph Morris. They show the painful difficulties experienced in the -eighteenth century from such entries as: ‘1782. I reaped oats for John -Hutchinson, when the field was covered with snow,’ and: ‘1799, Nov. 10. -Much corn to cut and carry. A hard frost.’</p> - -<p>Muker, notwithstanding all these climatic difficulties, has some claim -to picturesqueness, despite the fact that its church is better seen at a -distance, for a close inspection reveals its rather poverty-stricken -state. The square tower, so typical of the dales, stands well above the -weathered roofs of the village, and there are sufficient trees to tone -down the severities of the stone walls, that are inclined to make one -house much like its neighbour, and but for natural surroundings would -reduce the hamlets to the same uniformity. At Muker, however, there is a -steep<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_065" id="page_065"></a>{65}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_006" id="ill_006"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 335px;"> -<a href="images/ill_007_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_007_sml.jpg" width="335" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">MUKER ON A STORMY AFTERNOON</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">This</span> is a typical village of the dales, with its simple square-towered -church and its greeny-grey roofs. The hill on the left is Kisdon, and -one is looking up the narrowest portion of Swaledale.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">bridge and a rushing mountain stream that joins the Swale just below. -The road keeps close to this beck, and the houses are thus restricted to -one side of the way. There is a bright and cheerful appearance about the -Farmers’ Arms, the small inn that stands back a little from the road -with a cobbled space in front. Inside you may find a grandfather clock -by Pratt of Askrigg in Wensleydale, a portrait of Lord Kitchener, and a -good square meal of the ham and eggs and tea order.</p> - -<p>Away to the south, in the direction of the Buttertubs Pass, is Stags -Fell, 2,213 feet above the sea, and something like 1,300 feet above -Muker. Northwards, and towering over the village, is the isolated mass -of Kisdon Hill, on two sides of which the Swale, now a mountain stream, -rushes and boils among boulders and ledges of rock. This is one of the -finest portions of the dale, and, although the road leaves the river and -passes round the western side of Kisdon, there is a path that goes -through the glen, and brings one to the road again at Keld.</p> - -<p>Just before you reach Keld, the Swale drops 30 feet at Kisdon Force, and -after a night of rain there are many other waterfalls to be seen in this -district. These are not to me, however, the chief<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_066" id="page_066"></a>{66}</span> attractions of the -head of Swaledale, although without the angry waters the gills and -narrow ravines that open from the dale would lose much interest. It is -the stern grandeur of the scarred hillsides and the wide mountainous -views from the heights that give this part of Yorkshire such a -fascination. If you climb to the top of Rogan’s Seat, you have a huge -panorama of desolate country spread out before you. The confused jumble -of blue-gray mountains to the north-west is beyond the limits of -Yorkshire at last, and in their strong embrace those stern Westmoreland -hills hold the charms of Lakeland. Down below is the hamlet of Keld, -perched in an almost Swiss fashion on a sharply-falling hillside, and -among the surrounding masses of heaving moor are the birthplaces of the -dozen becks that supply the headwaters of the Swale. These nearer hills, -which include High Seat and the Lady’s Pillar, form the watershed of -this part of the Yorkshire border; for on the western slopes are to be -found the sources of the river Eden that flows through the beautiful -valley, which is one of the greatest charms of the Midland route to -Scotland.</p> - -<p>If one stays in this mountainous region, there are new and exciting -walks available for every day. There are gloomy recesses in the -hillsides that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_067" id="page_067"></a>{67}</span> encourage exploration from the knowledge that they are -not tripper-worn, and there are endless heights to be climbed that are -equally free from the smallest traces of desecrating mankind. Rare -flowers, ferns, and mosses flourish in these inaccessible solitudes, and -will continue to do so, on account of the dangers that lurk in their -fastnesses, and also from the fact that their value is nothing to any -but those who are glad to leave them growing where they are. You can -look down into shadowy chasms in the limestone, where underground waters -fall splashing with a hollow sound upon black shimmering rocks far -below, or, stranger still, into subterranean pools from which the waters -overflow into yet greater depths. You can follow the mountain streams -through wooded ravines, and discover cascades and waterfalls that do not -appear in any maps, and you may leave them by the rough tracks that -climb the hillsides when you, perchance, have a longing for space and -the sparkling clearness of the moorland air.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_068" id="page_068"></a>{68}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_069" id="page_069"></a>{69}</span> </p> - -<h2><a name="WENSLEYDALE" id="WENSLEYDALE"></a>WENSLEYDALE</h2> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_070" id="page_070"></a>{70}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_071" id="page_071"></a>{71}</span> </p> - -<h3><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV<br /><br /> -<small>WENSLEYDALE</small></h3> -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> approach from Muker to the upper part of Wensleydale is by a -mountain road that can claim a grandeur which, to those who have never -explored the dales, might almost seem impossible. I have called it a -road, but it is, perhaps, questionable whether this is not too -high-sounding a term for a track so invariably covered with large loose -stones and furrowed with water-courses. At its highest point the road -goes through the Butter-tubs Pass, taking the traveller to the edge of -the pot-holes that have given their name to this thrilling way through -the mountain ridge dividing the Swale from the Ure.</p> - -<p>Such a lonely and dangerous road should no doubt be avoided at night, -but yet I am always grateful for the delays which made me so late that -darkness came on when I was at the highest portion of the pass. It was -late in September, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_072" id="page_072"></a>{72}</span> it was the day of the feast at Hawes, which had -drawn to that small town farmers and their wives, and most, if not all, -the young men and maidens within a considerable radius. I made my way -slowly up the long ascent from Muker, stumbling frequently on the loose -stones and in the waterworn runnels that were scarcely visible in the -dim twilight. The huge, bare shoulders of the fells began to close in -more and more as I climbed. Towards the west lay Great Shunnor Fell, its -vast brown-green mass being sharply defined against the clear evening -sky; while further away to the north-west there were blue mountains -going to sleep in the soft mistiness of the distance. Then the road made -a sudden zigzag, but went on climbing more steeply than ever, until at -last I found that the stony track had brought me to the verge of a -precipice. There was not sufficient light to see what dangers lay -beneath me, but I could hear the angry sound of a beck falling upon -quantities of bare rocks. At the edge of the road the ground curved away -in an insidious manner without any protecting bank, and I instinctively -drew towards the inner side of the way, fearing lest a stumble among the -stones that still covered the road might precipitate me into the gorge<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_073" id="page_073"></a>{73}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_007" id="ill_007"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a href="images/ill_008_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_008_sml.jpg" width="500" height="350" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">TWILIGHT IN THE BUTTER-TUBS PASS</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> Butter-tubs are some deep pot-holes in the limestone that lie just -by the high stony road that goes from Hawes in Wensleydale to Muker in -Swaledale.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">below, where, even if one survived the fall, there would be every -opportunity of succumbing to one’s injuries before anyone came along the -beck side. The place is, indeed, so lonely that I can quite believe it -possible that a man might die there and be reduced to a whitened -skeleton before discovery. Of course, one might be lucky enough to be -found by a shepherd, or some sheepdog might possibly come after -wanderers from a flock that had found their way to this grim recess; but -then, everyone is not equally on good terms with that jade Fortune, and -to such folk I offer this word of caution. But here I have only -commenced the dangers of this pass, for if one does not keep to the -road, there is on the other side the still greater menace of the -Buttertubs, the dangers of which are too well known to require any -emphasis of mine. Those pot-holes which have been explored with much -labour, and the use of winches and tackle and a great deal of stout -rope, have revealed in their cavernous depths the bones of sheep that -disappeared from flocks which have long since become mutton. This road -is surely one that would have afforded wonderful illustrations to the -‘Pilgrim’s Progress,’ for the track is steep and narrow and painfully -rough; dangers lie on either<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_074" id="page_074"></a>{74}</span> side, and safety can only be found by -keeping in the middle of the road.</p> - -<p>What must have been the thoughts, I wonder, of the dalesmen who on -different occasions had to go over the pass at night in those still -recent times when wraithes and hobs were terrible realities? In the -parts of Yorkshire where any records of the apparitions that used to -enliven the dark nights have been kept, I find that these awesome -creatures were to be found on every moor, and perhaps some day in my -reading I shall discover an account of those that haunted this pass. -Perhaps a considerate Providence has kept me from the knowledge of the -form these spirits assume in this particular spot, for the reason I will -recount. I had reached the portion of the road where it goes so -recklessly along the edge of the precipitous scars, when, far away on -the gloomy fell-side ahead of me, there glimmered a strange little light -that disappeared for a moment and then showed itself again. Soon -afterwards it was hidden, I supposed by some hollow in the ground. Had I -been bred in the dales in the time of our grandfathers, I should have -fled wildly from such a sight, and probably found an early grave in the -moist depths of one of the Buttertubs. As it was,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_075" id="page_075"></a>{75}</span> although quite alone -and without any means of defence, I went on steadily, until at last, out -of the darkness, I heard a laugh that sounded human enough, and then -came to me the sound of a heavy cart lumbering slowly over the stones. -The breeze wafted to me a suggestion of tobacco, and in a moment my -anxiety had gone. The cart contained two girls, and by the horse’s head -walked a man, while another followed on horseback. One of the men lit -his pipe again, and in the momentary flare I could see his big, genial -face, the farm-horse, and the two happy maidens. We said ‘Good-night’ to -prove each other’s honesty, and after a while the sound of the cart died -away, as it went slowly along the windings of the pass. After this I was -seldom alone, for I had fallen in with the good folks who had gone over -to the feast at Hawes, and were now homeward bound in the darkness.</p> - -<p>Although there are probably few who care for rough moorland roads at -night, the Buttertubs Pass in daylight is still a memorable place. The -pot-holes can then be safely approached, and one can peer into the -blackness below until the eyes become adapted to the gloom. Then one -sees the wet walls of limestone and the curiously-formed isolated pieces -of rock that almost suggest columnar<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_076" id="page_076"></a>{76}</span> basalt. In crevices far down -delicate ferns are growing in the darkness. They shiver as the cool -water drips upon them from above, and the drops they throw off fall down -lower still into a stream of underground water that has its beginnings -no man knows where. On a hot day it is cooling simply to gaze into the -Buttertubs, and the sound of the falling waters down in these shadowy -places is pleasant after gazing on the dry fell-sides.</p> - -<p>Just beyond the head of the pass, where the descent to Hawes begins, the -shoulders of Great Shunnor Fell drop down, so that not only straight -ahead, but also westwards, one can see a splendid mountain view. -Ingleborough’s flat top is conspicuous in the south, and in every -direction there are indications of the geology of the fells. The hard -stratum of millstone grit that rests upon the limestone gives many of -the summits of the hills their level character, and forms the -sharply-defined scars that encircle them. Lower down the hills are -generally rounded. It used to puzzle Dr. Whitaker, the historian of -these parts, ‘how, upon a surface which must at first have consisted of -angles and right lines only, nothing but graceful curves should now -appear, as if some plastic hand had formed the original surface over -again for use<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_077" id="page_077"></a>{77}</span> and beauty at once.’ Then, with the blankest pessimism, -he goes on to say that ‘these are among the many questions relating to -the theory of the earth which the restless curiosity of man will ever be -asking without the hope or possibility of a solution’! The exclamation -mark is mine, for I cannot restrain my feelings of astonishment that a -learned man writing in 1805 should deny to us the knowledge we have of -the action of ice and the other forces of denudation, by which we are -able to understand to such a very great extent the agencies that have -produced the contours of the Yorkshire mountains. The sudden changes of -weather that take place among these watersheds would almost seem to be -cause enough to explain the wearing down of the angularities of the -heights. Even while we stand on the bridge at Hawes we can see three or -four ragged cloud edges letting down on as many places torrential rains, -while in between there are intervals of blazing sunshine, under which -the green fells turn bright yellow and orange in powerful contrast to -the indigo shadows on every side. Such rapid changes from complete -saturation to sudden heat are trying to the hardest rocks, and at -Hardraw, close at hand, there is a still more palpable process of -denudation in active operation.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_078" id="page_078"></a>{78}</span></p> - -<p>Such a morning as this is quite ideal for seeing the remarkable -waterfall known as Hardraw Scar or Force. The footpath that leads up the -glen leaves the road at the side of the ‘Green Dragon’ at Hardraw, where -the innkeeper hands us a key to open the gate we must pass through. -Being September, and an uncertain day for weather, we have the whole -glen to ourselves, until behind some rocks we discover a solitary -angler. There is nothing but the roughest of tracks to follow, for the -carefully-made pathway that used to go right up to the fall was swept -away half a dozen years ago, when the stream in a fierce mood cleared -its course of any traces of artificiality. We are deeply grateful, and -make our way among the big rocks and across the slippery surfaces of -shale, with the roar of the waters becoming more and more insistent. The -sun has turned into the ravine a great searchlight that has lit up the -rock walls and strewn the wet grass beneath with sparkling jewels. On -the opposite side there is a dense blue shadow over everything except -the foliage on the brow of the cliffs, where the strong autumn colours -leap into a flaming glory that transforms the ravine into an astonishing -splendour. A little more careful scrambling by the side of the stream, -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_079" id="page_079"></a>{79}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_008" id="ill_008"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 330px;"> -<a href="images/ill_009_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_009_sml.jpg" width="330" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">HARDRAW FORCE</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">This</span> fall of water on a tributary of the Ure is generally considered to -be the finest in Yorkshire. The water comes over a lip of overhanging -rock, and drops sheer into a pool 80 feet below. It is a most romantic -spot at all times, but it is seen at its best after a heavy rainfall. It -is possible to walk behind the fall on a slippery spray-drenched -path.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">we see a white band of water falling from the overhanging limestone into -the pool about ninety feet below. Off the surface of the water drifts a -mist of spray, in which a soft patch of rainbow hovers until the sun -withdraws itself for a time and leaves a sudden gloom in the horseshoe -of overhanging cliffs. The place is, perhaps, more in sympathy with a -cloudy sky, but, under sunshine or cloud, the spout of water is a -memorable sight, and its imposing height places Hardraw among the small -group of England’s finest waterfalls. Everyone, however, realizes the -disappointment so often experienced in visiting such sights in dry -weather, and the water at Hardraw sometimes shrinks to a mere trickle, -leaving only the rock chasm to tell the traveller what can happen in -really wet weather. The beck that takes this prodigious leap rises on -Great Shunnor Fell, and if that mountain has received the attentions of -some low clouds during the night, there is generally a gushing stream of -water pouring over the projecting lip of hard limestone. The shale that -lies beneath this stratum is soft enough to be worked away by the water -until the limestone overhangs the pool to the extent of ten or twelve -feet, so that the water falls sheer into the circular basin, leaving a -space between<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_080" id="page_080"></a>{80}</span> the cliff and the fall where it is safe to walk on a -rather moist and slippery path that is constantly being sprayed from the -surface of the pool.</p> - -<p>In hard winters, such as that of 1881, the waters freeze up into a great -mass of ice, through which the fall makes its way by keeping an open -pipe down the centre. It is recorded that in the winter of 1739-40 the -fall began to freeze at the top and bottom, and that it eventually met, -making ‘one hollow column which was seventy-two yards and three-quarters -in circumference.’</p> - -<p>As we turn away from the roar of the waters the sun comes through the -clouds once more and illuminates the glen with such a generous light -that we long to be in the open again, so that we may see all the play of -the sweeping shadows along the slopes of Wensleydale. As we cross the -Ure we have a view of the wet roofs of Hawes shining in dazzling light. -The modern church-tower, with a pinnacle at one corner only, stands out -conspicuously, but the little town looks uninteresting, although it does -not spoil the views of the head of the dale. The street is wide and -long, and would be very dull but for the splendid surroundings which the -houses cannot quite shut out. As we are here for pleasure, and not to -make an<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_081" id="page_081"></a>{81}</span> examination of every place in the dale country, we will hurry -out of the town at once, making our way southwards to the little hamlet -of Gayle, where old stone cottages are scattered on each side of the -Duerley Beck. Dodd Fell, where the beck has its source, is mantled by a -cloud that is condensing into rain with such rapidity that, if we wait -on the bridge for a time, we shall be able to see the already swollen -waters rise still higher as they come foaming over the broad cascades. -The stream has much the colour of ale, and the creamy foam adds to the -effect so much that one might imagine that some big brew-house had -collapsed and added the contents of its vats to the stream. But we have -only to realize that, as upper Wensleydale produces no corn and no hops, -breweries could scarcely exist. When Leland wrote, nearly four hundred -years ago, he said: ‘<i>Uredale</i> veri litle Corne except Bygg or Otes, but -plentiful of Gresse in Communes,’ so that, although this dale is so much -more genial in aspect, and so much wider than the valley of the Swale, -yet crops are under the same disabilities. Leaving Gayle behind, we -climb up a steep and stony road above the beck until we are soon above -the level of green pasturage. The stone walls still<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_082" id="page_082"></a>{82}</span> cover the hillsides -with a net of very large mesh, but the sheep find more bent than grass, -and the ground is often exceedingly steep. Higher still climbs this -venturesome road, until all around us is a vast tumble of gaunt brown -fells, divided by ravines whose sides are scarred with runnels of water, -which have exposed the rocks and left miniature screes down below. At a -height of nearly 1,600 feet there is a gate, where we will turn away -from the road that goes on past Dodd Fell into Langstrothdale, and -instead climb a smooth grass track sprinkled with half-buried rocks -until we have reached the summit of Wether Fell, 400 feet higher. There -is a scanty growth of ling upon the top of this height, but the hills -that lie about on every side are browny-green or of an ochre colour, and -there is little of the purple one sees in the Cleveland Hills.</p> - -<p>The cultivated level of Wensleydale is quite hidden from view, so that -we look over a vast panorama of mountains extending in the west as far -as the blue fells of Lakeland. I have painted the westward view from -this very summit, so that any written description is hardly needed; but -behind us, as we face the scene illustrated here, there is a wonderful -expanse that includes the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_083" id="page_083"></a>{83}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_009" id="ill_009"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a href="images/ill_010_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_010_sml.jpg" width="500" height="371" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">A RUGGED VIEW ABOVE WENSLEYDALE</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> picture shows the mountains to the north-west of Wether Fell (2,015 -feet), the heathery summit of which appears in the foreground. Hawes -lies to the right, hidden by the steep sides of the dale.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">heights of Addlebrough, Stake Fell, and Penhil Beacon, which stand out -boldly on the southern side of Wensleydale. I have seen these hills -lightly covered with snow, but that can give scarcely the smallest -suggestion of the scene that was witnessed after the remarkable -snowstorm of January, 1895, which blocked the roads between Wensleydale -and Swaledale until nearly the middle of March. Roads were cut out, with -walls of snow on either side from 10 to 15 feet in height, but the wind -and fresh falls almost obliterated the passages soon after they had been -cut. In Langstrothdale Mr. Speight tells of the extraordinary -difficulties of the dalesfolk in the farms and cottages, who were faced -with starvation owing to the difficulty of getting in provisions. They -cut ways through the drifts as high as themselves in the direction of -the likeliest places to obtain food, while in Swaledale they built -sledges. It is difficult to imagine such scenes after a hot climb on a -warm afternoon, even though great white masses of cumulus are lying in -serried ridges near the horizon; but, having seen the Lake District -under a thick mantle of snow from the top of Helvellyn, I have some idea -of the scene in Wensleydale after that stupendous fall.</p> - -<p>When we have left the highest part of Wether<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_084" id="page_084"></a>{84}</span> Fell, we find the track -taking a perfectly straight line between stone walls. The straightness -is so unusual that there can be little doubt that it is a survival of -one of the Roman ways connecting their station on Brough Hill, just -above the village of Bainbridge, with some place to the south-west. The -track goes right over Cam Fell, and is known as the Old Cam Road, but I -cannot recommend it for any but pedestrians. When we have descended only -a short distance, there is a sudden view of Semmerwater, the only piece -of water in Yorkshire that really deserves to be called a lake. It is a -pleasant surprise to discover this placid patch of blue lying among the -hills, and partially hidden by a fellside in such a way that its area -might be far greater than 105 acres. Those who know Turner’s painting of -this lake would be disappointed, no doubt, if they saw it first from -this height. The picture was made at the edge of the water with the -Carlow Stone in the foreground, and over the mountains on the southern -shore appears a sky that would make the dullest potato-field thrilling.</p> - -<p>A short distance lower down, by straying a little from the road, we get -a really imposing view of Bardale, into which the ground falls suddenly -from our very feet. Sheep scamper nimbly down their<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_085" id="page_085"></a>{85}</span> convenient little -tracks, but there are places where water that overflows from the pools -among the bent and ling has made blue-gray seams and wrinkles in the -steep places that give no foothold even to the toughest sheep. Raydale -and Cragdale also send down becks that join with Bardale Beck just -before they enter Semmerwater. Just now the three glens are particularly -imposing, for some of the big clouds that have been sweeping across the -heavens all day are massing themselves on the edges of the heights, and -by eclipsing themselves have assumed an angry indigo hue that makes the -scene almost Scottish.</p> - -<p>Perhaps it is because Yorkshire folk are so unused to the sight of lakes -that both Semmerwater and Gormire, near Thirsk, have similar legends -connected with their miraculous origin. Where the water now covers the -land, says the story, there used to stand a small town, and to it there -once came an angel disguised as a poor and ill-clad beggar. The old man -slowly made his way along the street from one house to another asking -for food, but at each door he met with the same blank refusal. He went -on, therefore, until he came to a poor little cottage outside the town. -Although the couple who lived there were almost as old and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_086" id="page_086"></a>{86}</span> as poor as -himself, the beggar asked for something to eat as he had done at the -other houses. The old folk at once asked him in, and, giving him bread, -milk, and cheese, urged him to pass the night under their roof. Then in -the morning, when the old man was about to take his departure, came the -awful doom upon the inhospitable town, for the beggar held up his hands, -and said:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘Semmerwater, rise! Semerwater, sink!<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And swallow the town, all save this house,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Where they gave me meat and drink.’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">Of course, the waters obeyed the disguised angel; and, for proof, have -we not the existence of the lake, and is there not also pointed out an -ancient little cottage standing alone at the lower end of the lake?</p> - -<p>We lose sight of Semmerwater behind the ridge that forms one side of the -branch dale in which it lies, but in exchange we get beautiful views of -the sweeping contours of Wensleydale. High upon the further side of the -valley Askrigg’s gray roofs and pretty church stand out against a steep -fellside; further down we can see Nappa Hall, surrounded by trees, just -above the winding river, and Bainbridge lies close at hand. We soon come -to the broad and cheerful green, surrounded by a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_087" id="page_087"></a>{87}</span> picturesque scattering -of old but well preserved cottages; for Bainbridge has sufficient charms -to make it a pleasant inland resort for holiday times that is quite -ideal for those who are content to abandon the sea. The overflow from -Semmerwater, which is called the Bain, fills the village with its music -as it falls over ledges of rock in many cascades along one side of the -green. There is a steep bridge, which is conveniently placed for -watching the waterfalls; there are white geese always drilling on the -grass, and there are still to be seen the upright stones of the stocks. -The pretty inn called the ‘Rose and Crown,’ overlooking a corner of the -green, states upon a board that it was established in 1445. This date at -one time appeared in raised letters upon a stone over the doorway, -which, Mr. Speight tells us, ‘had formerly a good Norman arch.’ Anything -of that period would, of course, carry the origin of the building back -some centuries earlier than the year claimed for the establishment of -the inn. The great age of the village, owing to its existence in Roman -times, as well as the importance it gained through being not only -situated at important cross-roads, but also on the edge of the forest of -Wensleydale, would account for the early establishment of some<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_088" id="page_088"></a>{88}</span> sort of -hostelry for the entertainment of travellers. Even at the present day a -horn-blowing custom has been preserved at Bainbridge. It takes place at -ten o’clock every night between Holy Rood (September 27) and Shrovetide, -but somehow the reason for the observance has been forgotten. The -medieval regulations as to the carrying of horns by foresters and those -who passed through forests would undoubtedly associate the custom with -early times, and this happy old village certainly gains our respect for -having preserved anything from such a remote period. When we reach -Bolton Castle we shall find in the museum there an old horn from -Bainbridge.</p> - -<p>Besides having the length and breadth of Wensleydale to explore with or -without the assistance of the railway, Bainbridge has as its particular -possession the valley containing Semmerwater, with the three romantic -dales at its head. Counterside, a hamlet perched a little above the -lake, has an old hall, where George Fox stayed in 1677 as a guest of -Richard Robinson. The inn bears the date 1667 and the initials ‘B. H. -J.,’ which may be those of one of the Jacksons, who were Quakers at that -time.</p> - -<p>On the other side of the river, and scarcely more<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_089" id="page_089"></a>{89}</span> than a mile from -Bainbridge, is the little town of Askrigg, which supplies its neighbour -with a church and a railway-station. There is a charm in its breezy -situation that is ever present, for even when we are in the narrow -little street that curves steeply up the hill there are peeps of the -dale that are quite exhilarating. The square-topped Addlebrough is -separated from us by a great airy space, and looking up and down the -broad dale which widens eastwards and becomes narrower and more rugged -to the west, there appears to be a vastness lying around us which no -plain can suggest. We can see Wether Fell, with the road we traversed -yesterday plainly marked on the slopes, and down below, where the Ure -takes its way through bright pastures, there is a mist of smoke -ascending from Hawes. Blocking up the head of the dale are the spurs of -Dodd and Widdale Fells, while beyond them appears the blue summit of Bow -Fell. We find it hard to keep our eyes away from the distant mountains, -which fascinate one by appearing to have an importance that is perhaps -diminished when they are close at hand. All the big clouds that -yesterday could scarcely hold up their showers for the shortest -intervals have disappeared; perhaps they<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_090" id="page_090"></a>{90}</span> have now reached the river in -liquid form, and are sparkling in the sunshine that now comes, without -interruption, from their spotless cenotaph. We will follow Shelley’s -metaphor no further, for there is water enough everywhere to fill the -dales with all the roarings and murmurings that the forces and gills can -supply, and we would gladly forget the cloud’s ‘silent laugh’ as it -begins to unbuild the blue dome of heaven.</p> - -<p>We find ourselves halting on a patch of grass by the restored -market-cross to look more closely at a fine old house overlooking the -three-sided space. There is no doubt as to the date of the building, for -a plain inscription begins ‘Gulielmus Thornton posuit hanc domum -MDCLXXVIII.’ The bay windows, as may be seen in the illustration, have -heavy mullions and transoms, and there is a dignity about the house -which must have been still more apparent when the surrounding houses -were lower than at present. The wooden gallery that is constructed -between the bays was, it is said, built as a convenient place for -watching the bull-fights that took place just below. In the grass there -can still be seen the stone to which the bull-ring was secured. The -churchyard runs along the west side of the little market-place, so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_091" id="page_091"></a>{91}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_010" id="ill_010"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 360px;"> -<a href="images/ill_011_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_011_sml.jpg" width="360" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">A JACOBEAN HOUSE AT ASKRIGG</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> village of Askrigg, perched picturesquely on the northern slopes of -Wensleydale, possesses this imposing stone house. It overlooks the open -space by the church, where bull-fights took place in the early part of -last century. The ring is still to be seen in the patch of grass, and -the wooden balcony between the projecting bays of the house was a -favourite position for watching the contests.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">that there is an open view on that side, made interesting by the -Perpendicular church. The simple square tower and the unbroken -roof-lines are battlemented, like so many of the churches of the dales; -inside we find Norman pillars that are quite in strange company, if it -is true that they were brought from the site of Fors Abbey, a little to -the west of the town. The greater part of the church dates from 1466, -and shortly after this reconstruction of the thirteenth-century building -a chantry in the south aisle, dedicated to St. Anne, was founded by one -of the Metcalfes of Nappa Hall, which we shall pass on our way to -Aysgarth.</p> - -<p>Wensleydale generally used to be famed for its hand-knitting, but I -think Askrigg must have turned out more work than any place in the -valley, for the men as well as the womenfolk were equally skilled in -this employment, and Mr. Whaley says they did their work in the open air -‘while gossiping with their neighbours.’ This statement is, -nevertheless, exceeded by what appears in a volume entitled ‘The Costume -of Yorkshire.’ In that work of 1814, which contains a number of George -Walker’s quaint drawings, reproduced by lithography, we find a picture -having a strong<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_092" id="page_092"></a>{92}</span> suggestion of Askrigg in which there is a group of old -and young of both sexes seated on the steps of the market-cross, all -knitting, and a little way off a shepherd is seen driving some sheep -through a gate, and he also is knitting. The letterpress describes how a -woman named Slinger, who lived in Cotterdale, used to walk to and from -Hawes Market with her goods on her head, knitting steadily all the way. -Knitting-machines have long since killed this industry, but Askrigg has -somehow survived the loss. Grandfather-clocks are still made in the -little town, as they have been for a great number of years. We have -already noticed an old Askrigg clock at Muker, and if we keep our eyes -open we shall come across others, as well as examples from Leyburn, -Middleham, and other places in the dale that possessed a clock-maker.</p> - -<p>It is interesting to those who wish to get a correct idea of a place -before visiting it to know that they may easily be led astray by even -the best guides. When we read in Murray that Askrigg is a ‘dull little -town of gray houses,’ we are at once predisposed against the place, -although we might know that all the houses in the dales are gray. No -suggestion is given of the splendid situation,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_093" id="page_093"></a>{93}</span> and one might imagine -that all the houses, with the exception of the one near the church, are -featureless and quite uninteresting. This, of course, would be a total -misapprehension, for many of the buildings are old, with quaint doorways -and steps, and there are mossy roofs that add colour to the stone, which -is often splashed with orange and pale emerald lichen. In writing of -Hawes, on the other hand, Murray omits to mention the lack of -picturesqueness in its really dull street, merely saying that ‘the town -itself is growing and improving.’ Not content, however, with this -approval of the place, the guide goes still further astray by stating -that the dale in the neighbourhood of Hawes ‘is broad and open, and not -very picturesque’! I cannot help exclaiming at such a statement, -although I may be told that all this is a mere matter of individual -opinion, for is not Wensleydale broad and open from end to end, and is -not Hawes situated in the midst of some of the wildest and noblest fells -in Yorkshire? It is true that the town lies on the level ground by the -river, and thus the views from it do not form themselves into such -natural pictures as they do at Askrigg, but I am inclined to blame the -town rather than the scenery.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_094" id="page_094"></a>{94}</span></p> - -<p>From Askrigg there is a road that climbs up from the end of the little -street at a gradient that looks like 1 in 4, but it is really less -formidable. Considering its steepness the surface is quite good, but -that is due to the industry of a certain roadmender with whom I once had -the privilege to talk when, hot and breathless, I paused to enjoy the -great expanse that lay to the south. He was a fine Saxon type, with a -sunburnt face and equally brown arms. Road-making had been his ideal -when he was a mere boy, and since he had obtained his desire he told me -that he couldn’t be happier if he were the King of England. And his -contentment seemed to me to be based largely upon his intense pleasure -in bringing the roads to as great a perfection as his careful and -thinking labour could compass. He did not approve of steamrollers, for -his experience had taught him that if the stones were broken small -enough they bound together quickly enough. Besides this, he disapproved -of a great camber or curve on the road which induces the traffic to keep -in the middle, leaving a mass of loose stones on either side. The result -of his work may be seen on the highway from Askrigg to Bainbridge, where -a conspicuous smoothness has come to a road that was recently<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_095" id="page_095"></a>{95}</span> one of -the most indifferent in the district. Perhaps he may eventually be given -the maintenance of the way over the Buttertubs Pass; and if he ever -induces that road to become a little more civilized, this enthusiastic -workman will gain the appreciation of the whole neighbourhood. The road -where we leave him, breaking every large stone he can find, goes on -across a belt of brown moor, and then drops down between gaunt scars -that only just leave space for the winding track to pass through. It -afterwards descends rapidly by the side of a gill, and thus enters -Swaledale.</p> - -<p>There is a beautiful walk from Askrigg to Mill Gill Force. The distance -is scarcely more than half a mile across sloping pastures and through -the curious stiles that appear in the stone walls. So dense is the -growth of trees in the little ravine that one hears the sound of the -waters close at hand without seeing anything but the profusion of -foliage overhanging and growing among the rocks. After climbing down -among the moist ferns and moss-grown stones, the gushing cascades appear -suddenly set in a frame of such lavish beauty that they hold a high -place among their rivals in the dale, and the particular charms of this -spot are hardly surpassed by any others in the whole<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_096" id="page_096"></a>{96}</span> county. Higher up -there is Whitfield Force, which has a fall of nearly 50 feet. Its -setting, too, among great rock walls and an ancient forest growth, is -most fascinating, especially when one finds that very few go beyond the -greater falls below.</p> - -<p>Keeping to the north side of the river, we come to Nappa Hall at a -distance of a little over a mile to the east of Askrigg. It is now a -farmhouse, but its two battlemented towers proclaim its former -importance as the chief seat of the family of Metcalfe. The date of the -house is about 1459, and the walls of the western tower are 4 feet in -thickness. The Nappa lands came to James Metcalfe from Sir Richard -Scrope of Bolton Castle shortly after his return to England from the -field of Agincourt, and it was probably this James Metcalfe who built -the existing house. We are told something about the matter by Leland, -who says: ‘<i>Knappey</i> in <i>Yorkshire</i>, now the chifest House of the -<i>Metecalfes</i>, was boute by one <i>Thomas Metcalfe</i>, Sunne to <i>James -Metecalfe</i>, of one of the Lordes <i>Scropes</i> of <i>Bolton</i>.’ He also says -that ‘on it was but a Cotage or litle better House, ontille this -<i>Thomas</i> began ther to build, in the which Building 2 Toures be very -fair, beside other Logginges.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_097" id="page_097"></a>{97}</span>’ Mr. Speight thinks that Leland made some -mistake as to the Metcalfe who purchased the estate, and also as to the -builder of the house; and in his account of Nappa the author of -‘Romantic Richmondshire’ has, with the aid of the Metcalfe Records, been -able to correct several inaccuracies which have been written about this -distinguished and numerous family.</p> - -<p>Until the year 1880 there was still kept at Nappa Hall a fine old -four-post bedstead, which was, according to tradition, the one slept in -by Mary Queen of Scots when she is said to have stayed in the house. -Nothing exists, however, to give the slightest colour to this story, but -the bed, now somewhat altered, is still in existence at Newby Hall, near -Ripon.</p> - -<p>The road down the dale passes Woodhall Park, and then, after going down -close to the Ure, it bears away again to the little village of Carperby. -It has a triangular green surrounded by white posts. At the east end -stands an old cross, dated 1674, and the ends of the arms are ornamented -with grotesque carved heads. The cottages have a neat and pleasant -appearance, and there is much less austerity about the place than one -sees higher up the dale. A branch road leads down to Aysgarth<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_098" id="page_098"></a>{98}</span> Station, -and just where the lane takes a sharp bend to the right a footpath goes -across a smooth meadow to the banks of the Ure. The rainfall of the last -few days, which showed itself at Mill Gill Force, at Hardraw Scar, and a -dozen other falls, has been sufficient to swell the main stream at -Wensleydale into a considerable flood, and behind the bushes that grow -thickly along the river-side we can hear the steady roar of the cascades -of Aysgarth. The waters have worn down the rocky bottom to such an -extent that in order to stand in full view of the splendid fall we must -make for a gap in the foliage, and scramble down some natural steps in -the wall of rock forming low cliffs along each side of the flood. -Although it is still September, the rocks are overhung with the most -brilliant autumn foliage. The morning sunlight coming across a dark -plantation of firs on the southern bank lights up the yellow and red -leaves, and turns the foaming waters into a brilliant white where they -are not under the shadow of the trees. The water comes over three -terraces of solid stone, and then sweeps across wide ledges in a -tempestuous sea of waves and froth, until there come other descents -which alter the course of parts of the stream, so that as we look across -the riotous flood we can<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_099" id="page_099"></a>{99}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_011" id="ill_011"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a href="images/ill_012_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_012_sml.jpg" width="500" height="358" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">AYSGARTH FORCE</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> beautiful river Ure that flows through Wensleydale falls over a -series of rocky ledges close to the village of Aysgarth. The picture -shows the lower series of falls on the morning following a wet -night.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">see the waters flowing in many opposite directions. Lines of -cream-coloured foam spread out into chains of bubbles which join -together, and then, becoming detached, again float across the smooth -portions of each low terrace. Where the water is smooth and shaded by -the overhanging mass of trees it assumes a dark green-brown colour, and -shows up the chains and necklaces of sportive bubbles which the cascades -produce. I suppose it was because Leland did not see the other great -falls in Wensleydale that he omits any mention of High Force on the Tees -and Hardraw Scar, but yet mentions ‘where <i>Ure</i> Ryver faullethe very -depe betwixt 2 scarry Rokks.’</p> - -<p>Besides these lower falls, we can see, if we go up the course of the -river towards Aysgarth, a single cascade called the Middle Force, and -from the bridge which spans the river with one great arch we have a -convenient place to watch the highest series of falls. But neither of -these have half the grandeur of the lowest of the series which is -illustrated here. There is a large mill by the bridge, and, ascending -the steep roadway that goes up to the village, we soon reach the pathway -to the church. Perhaps because Aysgarth Force is famous enough to -attract large crowds of sightseers<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a>{100}</span> on certain days throughout the -summer, the church is kept locked, and as we wish to see the splendid -Perpendicular screen, saved from the wreck of Jervaulx Abbey, we must -make our way to the Vicarage, and enter the church in the company of a -custodian who watches us with suspicious eyes, fearing, no doubt, that -if he looks away or waits in the churchyard we may feel anxious to leave -our initials on the reading-desk. Apart from the screen, the choir -stalls, and the other woodwork of the choir, there is very little -interest in the church owing to the rebuilding that has taken place, and -left few traces of antiquity beyond suggestions of Early English work in -the tower. There is a short-cut by some footpaths that brings us to -Aysgarth village, which seems altogether to disregard the church, for it -is separated from it by a distance of nearly half a mile. There is one -pleasant little street of old stone houses irregularly disposed, many of -them being quite picturesque, with mossy roofs and ancient chimneys. -This village, like Askrigg and Bainbridge, is ideally situated as a -centre for exploring a very considerable district. There is quite a -network of roads to the south, connecting the villages of Thoralby and -West Burton with Bishop Dale, and the main road<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a>{101}</span> through Wensleydale. -Thoralby is very old, and is beautifully situated under a steep -hillside. It has a green overlooked by little gray cottages, and lower -down there is a tall mill with curious windows built upon Bishop Dale -Beck. Close to this mill there nestles a long, low house of that -dignified type to be seen frequently in the North Riding, as well as in -the villages of Westmoreland. The huge chimney, occupying a large -proportion of one gable-end, is suggestive of much cosiness within, and -its many shoulders, by which it tapers towards the top, make it an -interesting feature of the house. The lower part of Bishop Dale is often -singularly beautiful in the evening. If we stop and lean over a gate, we -can see Stake Fell towering above us—an indistinct blue wall with a -sharply-broken edge. Above appears a pale-yellow sky, streaked with -orange-coloured clouds so thin as to look almost like smoke. The intense -silence is broken by the buzz of a swift-flying insect, and then when -that has gone other sounds seem to intensify the stillness. Suddenly a -shrill bellow from a cow echoes through the valley, a sheep-dog barks, -and we can hear the distant cough of cattle, which are quite invisible -in the gathering twilight. A farmer in his cart drives slowly by up the -steep<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a>{102}</span> lane, and then the silence becomes more complete than before, and -the fells become blue-black against a sky which is just beginning to be -spangled with the palest of stars. They seem to flicker so much that the -soft evening breeze threatens to blow them out altogether.</p> - -<p>The dale narrows up at its highest point, but the road is enclosed -between gray walls the whole of the way over the head of the valley. A -wide view of Langstrothdale and upper Wharfedale is visible when the -road begins to drop downwards, and to the east Buckden Pike towers up to -his imposing height of 2,302 feet. We shall see him again when we make -our way through Wharfedale, but we could go back to Wensleydale by a -mountain-path that climbs up the side of Cam Gill Beck from Starbottom, -and then, crossing the ridge between Buckden Pike and Tor Mere Top, it -goes down into the wild recesses of Waldendale. So remote is this valley -that wild animals, long extinct in other parts of the dales, survived -there until almost recent times.</p> - -<p>When we have crossed the Ure again, and taken a last look at the Upper -Fall from Aysgarth Bridge, we betake ourselves by a footpath to the main -highway through Wensleydale, turning aside before<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a>{103}</span> reaching Redmire in -order to see the great castle of the Scropes at Bolton. It is a vast -quadrangular mass, with each side nearly as gaunt and as lofty as the -others. At each corner rises a great square tower, pierced, with a few -exceptions, by the smallest of windows. Only the base of the tower at -the north-east corner remains to-day, the upper part having fallen one -stormy night in November, 1761, possibly having been weakened during the -siege of the castle in the Civil War. We go into the courtyard through a -vaulted archway on the eastern side. Many of the rooms on the side -facing us are in good preservation, and an apartment in the south-west -tower, which has a fireplace, is pointed out as having been used by Mary -Queen of Scots when she was imprisoned here after the Battle of Langside -in 1568. It was the ninth Lord Scrope who had the custody of the Queen, -and he was assisted by Sir Francis Knollys. Mary, no doubt, found the -time of her imprisonment irksome enough, despite the magnificent views -over the dale which her windows appear to have commanded; but the -monotony was relieved to some extent by the lessons in English which she -received from Sir Francis, whom she describes as ‘her good -schoolmaster.’ While still a prisoner, Mary addressed to him her first -English letter,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a>{104}</span> which begins: ‘Mester Knoleis, I heve sum neus from -Scotland’; and half-way through she begs that he will excuse her -writing, seeing that she had ‘neuur vsed it afor,’ and was ‘hestet.’ The -letter concludes with ‘thus, affter my commendations, I prey God heuu -you in his kipin. Your assured gud frind, <span class="smcap">Marie</span> R.’ Then comes a -postscript: ‘Excus my iuel writin thes furst tym’—‘iuel’ being no doubt -intended for ‘evil.’</p> - -<p>Another relic of the Queen’s captivity at Bolton was a pane of glass, -upon which she had scratched ‘Marie R.’ with a diamond ring; but it was -damaged during the execution of some repairs to the castle, and in -removing the glass for greater security from the castle to Bolton Hall -it was hopelessly smashed.</p> - -<p>The stories of Mary’s attempts at escape have long been considered mere -fabrications, for, despite many intimate details of the months spent at -Bolton, no reference to such matters have been discovered. In the face -of this denial on the part of recorded history, Leyburn Shawl still -holds affectionately to the story that Mary Stuart did leave the castle -unobserved, and that she was overtaken there in the place called the -Queen’s Gap.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a>{105}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_012" id="ill_012"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a href="images/ill_013_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_013_sml.jpg" width="500" height="353" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">BOLTON CASTLE, WENSLEYDALE</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">In</span> this feudal stronghold Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned for six -months in 1568. She was brought from Carlisle by Lord Scrope, the owner -of Bolton Castle. The building forms a gaunt square, lofty and almost -featureless, except for the broken towers which rise at each of the four -corners. Lord Chancellor Scrope built the castle in the reign of Richard -II., and his descendants occupied it for three centuries.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>As we leave the grim castle, so full of memories of a great family and -of a lovely Queen, we turn back before it is hidden from our gaze, and -see the towers silhouetted against a golden sky much as it is depicted -in these pages. We think of all the Scropes who have come and gone since -that Lord Richard received license in 1379 to crenellate the fortress he -had built, and we regret again the disappearance of all those sumptuous -tombs that once adorned the choir of Easby Abbey. However, there are -memorials to members of the family in Wensley Church lying a little to -the east beyond the wooded park of Bolton Hall, and we shall arrive -there before long if we keep to the right at the turning beneath the -height known as Scarth Nick. On the opposite side of the dale Penhill -Beacon stands out prominently, with its flat summit reflecting just -enough of the setting sun to recall a momentous occasion when from that -commanding spot a real beacon-fire sent up a great mass of flame and -sparks. It was during the time of Napoleon’s threatened invasion of -England, and the lighting of this beacon was to be the signal to the -volunteers of Wensleydale to muster and march to their rendezvous. The -watchman on Penhill, as he sat by the piled-up brushwood, wondering,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a>{106}</span> no -doubt, what would happen to him if the dreaded invasion were really to -come about, saw, far away across the Vale of Mowbray, a light which he -at once took to be the beacon upon Roseberry Topping. A moment later -tongues of flame and smoke were pouring from his own hilltop, and the -news spread up the dale like wildfire. The volunteers armed themselves -rapidly, and with drums beating they marched away, with only such delay -as was caused by the hurried leave-takings with wives and mothers, and -all the rest who crowded round. The contingent took the road to Thirsk, -and on the way were joined by the Mashamshire men. Whether it was with -relief or disappointment I do not know; but when the volunteers reached -Thirsk they heard that they had been called out by a false alarm, for -the light seen in the direction of Roseberry Topping had been caused by -accident, and the beacon on that height had not been lit. After all, the -scare did no harm, for it showed the mettle of the Dalesmen, and they -were afterwards thanked by Parliament for their prompt response to the -signal.</p> - -<p>On the side of Penhill that looks full towards Bolton Castle there still -remain the foundations of the chapel of the Knight Templars, who must -have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a>{107}</span> established their hospital there soon after 1146, when the Order -was instituted in England.</p> - -<p>Wensley stands just at the point where the dale, to which it has given -its name, becomes so wide that it begins to lose its distinctive -character. The village is most picturesque and secluded, and it is small -enough to cause some wonder as to its distinction in naming the valley. -It is suggested that the name is derived from <i>Wodenslag</i>, and that in -the time of the Northmen’s occupation of these parts the place named -after their chief god would be the most important. In its possession of -a pleasant sloping green, dominated by a great elm, round whose base has -been built a circular platform, Wensley is particularly happy. The Ure, -flowing close at hand, is crossed by a fine old bridge, whose pointed -arches must have survived many centuries; for Leland says that it was -built by ‘<i>Alwine</i>, Parson of <i>Wencelaw</i>,’ ‘200 Yer ago and more,’ that -statement being made about the year 1538.</p> - -<p>In the little church standing on the south side of the green there is so -much to interest us that we are almost unable to decide what to examine -first, until, realizing that we are brought face to face with a -beautiful relic of Easby Abbey, we turn our attention to the parclose -screen. It surrounds<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a>{108}</span> the family pew of Bolton Hall, and on three sides -we see the Perpendicular woodwork fitted into the east end of the north -aisle. The side that fronts the nave has an entirely different -appearance, being painted and of a classic order, very lacking in any -ecclesiastical flavour, an impression not lost on those who, with every -excuse, called it ‘the opera box.’ In the panels of the early part of -the screen are carved inscriptions and arms of the Scropes covering a -long period, and, though many words and letters are missing, it is -possible to make them more complete with the help of the record made by -the heralds in 1665.</p> - -<p>On the floor of the chancel is the brass to Sir Simon de Wenselawe, a -priest of the fourteenth century. There is no trace of any inscription, -and the name was only discovered by a reference to the brass in the will -of Oswald Dykes, a rector who died in Jacobean times, and desired that -he might be buried under the stone which now bears his name above the -figure of the priest. This brass is the best in the North Riding, and it -closely resembles the one to Abbot de la Mare in St. Albans Abbey.</p> - -<p>A charming lane, overhung by big trees, runs above the river-banks for -nearly two miles of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a>{109}</span> way to Middleham; then it joins the road from -Leyburn, and crosses the Ure by a suspension bridge, defended by two -very formidable though modern archways. Climbing up past the church, we -enter the cobbled market-place, which wears a rather decayed appearance -in sympathy with the departed magnificence of the great castle of the -Nevilles. It commands a vast view of Wensleydale from the southern side, -in much the same manner as Bolton does from the north; but the castle -buildings are entirely different, for Middleham consists of a square -Norman keep, very massive and lofty, surrounded at a short distance by a -strong wall and other buildings, also of considerable height, built in -the Decorated period, when the Nevilles were in possession of the -stronghold. The Norman keep dates from the year 1190, when Robert Fitz -Randolph, grandson of Ribald, a brother of the Earl of Richmond, began -to build the Castle. It was, however, in later times, when Middleham had -come to the Nevilles by marriage, that really notable events took place -in this fortress. It was here that Warwick, the ‘King-maker,’ held -Edward IV. prisoner in 1467, and in Part III. of the play of ‘King Henry -VI.,’ Scene V. of the fourth act is laid in a park near Middleham -Castle.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a>{110}</span> Richard III.’s only son, Edward Prince of Wales, was born here -in 1476, the property having come into Richard’s possession by his -marriage with Anne Neville. The tower in which the boy was born is -pointed out to-day, but how the knowledge has been preserved I am quite -unable to say. When he was only eight years old, this little Prince died -in the castle in which he had first seen the light.</p> - -<p>The efforts to blow up the projecting towers of the Norman portion of -the castle are most plainly visible, but the splendid masonry, like that -of Corfe, in the Isle of Purbeck, has held together, although great gaps -have been torn out below, so that one can scarcely understand why the -upper part has not collapsed. The church contains some interesting -details, but they are not very apparent to the uninformed, to whom the -building might appear somewhat dull. All can, however, be interested in -the old cross in the market-place, and also in the Swine Cross in the -upper market, which shows the battered shape of some animal, carved -either in the form of the boar of Richard III. or the bear of Warwick.</p> - -<p>We have already seen Leyburn Shawl from near Wensley, but its charm can -only be appreciated by seeing the view up the dale from its -larch-crowned<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a>{111}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_013" id="ill_013"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 376px;"> -<a href="images/ill_014_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_014_sml.jpg" width="376" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">THE VIEW UP WENSLEYDALE FROM LEYBURN SHAWL</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">This</span> is one of the spots in this beautiful dale that repays a visit a -thousandfold. The effects are best on a clear day, when sunlight and -shadows are chasing one another over the hills and woodlands.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">termination. Perhaps if we had seen nothing of Wensleydale, and the -wonderful views it offers, we should be more inclined to regard this -somewhat popular spot with greater veneration; but after having explored -both sides of the dale, and seen many views of a very similar character, -we cannot help thinking that the vista is somewhat overrated. Leyburn -itself is a cheerful little town, with a modern church and a very wide -main street which forms a most extensive market-place. There is a -bull-ring still visible in the great open space, but beyond this and the -view from the Shawl Leyburn has few attractions, except its position as -a centre or a starting-place from which to explore the romantic -neighbourhood.</p> - -<p>As we leave Leyburn we get a most beautiful view up Coverdale, with the -two Whernsides standing out most conspicuously at the head of the -valley, and it is this last view of Coverdale, and the great valley from -which it branches, that remains in the mind as one of the finest -pictures of this most remarkable portion of Yorkshire.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a>{112}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a>{113}</span></p> - -<h2>RIPON AND FOUNTAINS ABBEY</h2> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a>{114}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a>{115}</span></p> - -<h3><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V<br /><br /> -<small>RIPON AND FOUNTAINS ABBEY</small></h3> -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">We</span> have come out of Wensleydale past the ruins of the great Cistercian -abbey of Jervaulx, which Conan, Earl of Richmond, moved from Askrigg to -a kindlier climate, and we have passed through the quiet little town of -Masham, famous for its fair in September, when sometimes as many as -70,000 sheep, including great numbers of the fine Wensleydale breed, are -sold, and now we are at Ripon. It is the largest town we have seen since -we lost sight of Richmond in the wooded recesses of Swaledale, and -though we are still close to the Ure, we are on the very edge of the -dale country, and miss the fells that lie a little to the west. The -evening has settled down to steady rain, and the market-place is running -with water that reflects the lights in the shop-windows and the dark -outline of the obelisk in the centre. This erection is suspiciously -called ‘the Cross,’ and it made its appearance nearly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a>{116}</span> seventy years -before the one at Richmond. Gent says it cost £564 11s. 9d., and that it -is ‘one of the finest in England.’ I could, no doubt, with the smallest -trouble discover a description of the real cross it supplanted, but if -it were anything half as fine as the one at Richmond, I should merely be -moved to say harsh things of John Aislabie, who was Mayor in 1702, when -the obelisk was erected, and therefore I will leave the matter to -others. It is, perhaps, an un-Christian occupation to go about the -country quarrelling with the deeds of recent generations, though I am -always grateful for any traces of the centuries that have gone which -have been allowed to survive. With this thought still before me, I am -startled by a long-drawn-out blast on a horn, and, looking out of my -window, which commands the whole of the market-place, I can see beneath -the light of a lamp an old-fashioned figure wearing a three-cornered -hat. When the last quavering note has come from the great circular horn, -the man walks slowly across the wet cobblestones to the obelisk, where I -watch him wind another blast just like the first, and then another, and -then a third, immediately after which he walks briskly away and -disappears down a turning. In the light of morning I discover that the -horn was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a>{117}</span> blown in front of the Town Hall, whose stucco front bears the -inscription: ‘Except ye Lord keep ye cittie, ye Wakeman waketh in vain.’ -The antique spelling is, of course, unable to give a wrong impression as -to the age of the building, for it shows its period so plainly that one -scarcely needs to be told that it was built in 1801, although it could -not so easily be attributed to the notorious Wyatt. There are still a -few quaint houses to be seen in Ripon, and there clings to the streets a -certain flavour of antiquity. It is the minster, nevertheless, that -raises the ‘city’ above the average Yorkshire town. The west front, with -its twin towers, is to some extent the most memorable portion of the -great church. It is the work of Archbishop Walter Gray, and is a most -beautiful example of the pure Early English style. Inside there is a -good deal of transitional Norman work to be seen. The central tower was -built in this period, but now presents a most remarkable appearance, -owing to its partial reconstruction in Perpendicular times, the arch -that faces the nave having the southern pier higher than the Norman one, -and in the later style, so that the arch is lopsided. As a building in -which to study the growth of English Gothic architecture, I can scarcely -think<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a>{118}</span> it possible to find anything better, all the periods being very -clearly represented. The choir has much sumptuous carved woodwork, and -the misereres are full of quaint detail. In the library there is a -collection of very early printed books and other relics of the minster -that add very greatly to the interest of the place.</p> - -<p>The monument to Hugh Ripley, who was the last Wakeman of Ripon and first -Mayor in 1604, is on the north side of the nave facing the entrance to -the crypt, popularly called ‘St. Wilfrid’s Needle.’ A rather difficult -flight of steps goes down to a narrow passage leading into a -cylindrically vaulted cell with niches in the walls. At the north-east -corner is the curious slit or ‘Needle’ that has been thought to have -been used for purposes of trial by ordeal, the innocent person being -able to squeeze through the narrow opening. In reality it is probably -nothing more than an arrangement for lighting two cells with one lamp. -The crypt is of such a plainly Roman type, and is so similar to the one -at Hexham, that it is generally accepted as dating from the early days -of Christianity in Yorkshire, and there can be little doubt that it is a -relic of Wilfrid’s church in those early times.</p> - -<p>At a very convenient distance from Ripon, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a>{119}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_014" id="ill_014"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a href="images/ill_015_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_015_sml.jpg" width="500" height="346" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">RIPON MINSTER FROM THE SOUTH</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">In</span> its outline Ripon suggests Westminster, although the west front with -its twin towers is Early English and not classic. Underneath the present -building is the Saxon crypt of Wilfrid’s church, dating from the seventh -century.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">approached by a pleasant lane, are the lovely glades of Studley Royal, -the noble park containing the ruins of Fountains Abbey. The surroundings -of the great Cistercian monastery are so magnificent, and the roofless -church is so impressively solemn, that, although the place is visited by -many thousands every year, yet, if you choose a day when the weather or -some other circumstances keep other people away, you might easily -imagine that you were visiting the park and ruins as a special -privilege, and not as one of the public who, through Lord Ripon’s -kindness, are allowed to come and go with very few restrictions beyond -the payment of a shilling.</p> - -<p>Just after leaving the lodge there appears on the right a most seductive -glade, overhung by some of the remarkable trees that give the park its -great fascination. The grassy slopes disappear in shadowy green recesses -in the foliage, in much the fashion of the forest scenes depicted in -tapestries. It is just such a background as the Elizabethans would have -loved to fill with the mythological beings that figured so largely in -their polite conversation. Down below the beautifully-kept pathway runs -the Skell, but so transformed from its early character that you would -imagine the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a>{120}</span> crescent-shaped lakes and the strip of smooth water were in -no way connected with the mountain-stream that comes off Dallowgill -Moor. It is particularly charming that the peeps of the water, bordered -by smooth turf that occupies the bottom of the steep and narrow valley, -are only had at intervals through a great hedge of clipped yew. The -paths wind round the densely-wooded slopes, and give a dozen different -views of each mass of trees, each temple, and each bend of the river. At -last, from a considerable height, you have the lovely view of the abbey -ruins illustrated here. At every season its charm is unmistakable, and -even if no stately tower and no roofless arches filled the centre of the -prospect, the scene would be almost as memorable. It is only one of the -many pictures in the park that a retentive memory will hold as some of -the most remarkable in England.</p> - -<p>Among the ruins the turf is kept in perfect order, and it is pleasant -merely to look upon the contrast of the green carpet that is so evenly -laid between the dark stonework. The late-Norman nave, with its solemn -double line of round columns, the extremely graceful arches of the -Chapel of the Nine Altars, and the magnificent vaulted perspective of -the dark cellarium of the lay-brothers,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a>{121}</span> are perhaps the most -fascinating portions of the buildings. I might be well compared with the -last abbot but one, William Thirsk, who resigned his post, foreseeing -the coming Dissolution, and was therefore called ‘a varra fole and a -misereble ideote,’ if I attempted in the short space available to give -any detailed account of the abbey or its wonderful past. I have perhaps -said enough to insist on its charms, and I know that all who endorse my -statements will, after seeing Fountains, read with delight the books -that are devoted to its story.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a>{122}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a>{123}</span> </p> - -<h2>KNARESBOROUGH AND HARROGATE</h2> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a>{124}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a>{125}</span> </p> - -<h3><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI<br /><br /> -<small>KNARESBOROUGH AND HARROGATE</small></h3> -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">It</span> is sometimes said that Knaresborough is an overrated town from the -point of view of its attractiveness to visitors, but this depends very -much upon what we hope to find there. If we expect to find lasting -pleasure in contemplating the Dropping Well, or the pathetic little -exhibition of petrified objects in the Mother Shipton Inn, we may be -prepared for disappointment. It seems strange that the real and lasting -charms of the town should be overshadowed by such popular and -much-advertised ‘sights.’ The first view of the town from the ‘high’ -bridge is so full of romance that if there were nothing else to interest -us in the place we would scarcely be disappointed. The Nidd, flowing -smoothly at the foot of the precipitous heights upon which the church -and the old roofs appear, is spanned by a great stone viaduct. This -might have been so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a>{126}</span> great a blot upon the scene that Knaresborough would -have lost half its charm. Strangely enough, we find just the reverse is -the case, for this railway bridge, with its battlemented parapets and -massive piers, is now so weathered that it has melted into its -surroundings as though it had come into existence as long ago as the -oldest building visible. The old Knaresborough kept well to the heights -adjoining the castle, and even to-day there are only a handful of later -buildings down by the river margin. The view, therefore, is still -unspoiled, and its appearance when the light is coming from the west can -be seen in the illustration given here.</p> - -<p>When we have crossed the bridge, and have passed along a narrow roadway -perched well above the river, we come to one of the many interesting -houses that help to keep alive the old-world flavour of the town. Only a -few years ago the old manor-house had a most picturesque and rather -remarkable exterior, for its plaster walls were covered with a large -black and white chequer-work, and its overhanging eaves and trailing -creepers gave it a charm that has since then been quite lost. The -restoration which recently took place has entirely altered the character -of the exterior, but inside everything<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a>{127}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_015" id="ill_015"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a href="images/ill_016_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_016_sml.jpg" width="500" height="343" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">KNARESBOROUGH</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Is</span> one of the most fortunate of towns in having in its railway bridge a -bold and decorative feature rather than an eyesore. The stranger -scarcely realizes as he stands on the road bridge from which the picture -is taken, that the big battlemented structure spanning the river is a -railway viaduct.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">has been preserved with just the care that should have been expended -outside as well. There are oak-wainscoted parlours, oak dressers, and -richly-carved fireplaces in the low-ceiled rooms, each one containing -furniture much of the period of the house. Upstairs there is a beautiful -old bedroom lined with oak, like those on the floor below, and its -interest is greatly enhanced by the story of Oliver Cromwell’s residence -in the house, for he is believed to have used this particular bedroom. -Slight alterations have taken place, but the oak bedstead which he is -said to have occupied, minus its tester and with its posts cut down to -half their height, still remains to carry us swiftly back to the last -siege of the castle. A very curious story is told in the <i>Gentleman’s -Magazine</i> of March, 1791. It gives an anecdote of Oliver Cromwell which -Sir John Goodricke used to relate. When he was quite a small boy, he was -told by a very old woman who had formerly attended his mother, Lady -Goodricke, how Oliver Cromwell came to lodge at this house when she was -but a young girl. ‘Having heard so much talk about the man,’ she said, -‘I looked at him with wonder. Being ordered to take a pan of coals and -air his bed, I could not, during the operation, forbear peeping over my<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a>{128}</span> -shoulder several times to observe this extraordinary person, who was -seated at the fireside of the room untying his garters. Having aired the -bed, I went out, and, shutting the door after me, stopped and peeped -through the keyhole, when I saw him rise from his feet, advance to the -bed and fall on his knees, in which attitude I left him for some time. -When I returned again I found him still at prayer, and this was his -custom every night so long as he stayed at our house, from which I -concluded he must be a good man, and this opinion I always maintained -afterwards, though I heard him very much blamed and exceedingly abused.’</p> - -<p>Higher up the hill stands the church with a square central tower -surmounted by a small spike. It still bears the marks of the fire made -by the Scots during their disastrous descent upon Yorkshire after Edward -II.’s defeat at Bannockburn. Led by Sir James Douglas, the Scots poured -into the prosperous plains and even the dales of Yorkshire. They burned -Northallerton and Boroughbridge, and then came on to Knaresborough. When -the town had been captured and burnt, the savage invaders endeavoured to -burn out the inhabitants who had taken refuge in the church-tower, but -the stoutness of the stone walls prevented<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a>{129}</span> their efforts to destroy the -building. It is quite possible that the roofs at that time were -thatched, for some years ago much partially-burnt straw was discovered -in the roof. The chapel on the north side of the chancel contains the -interesting monuments of the old Yorkshire family of Slingsby. The -altar-tomb in the centre bears the recumbent effigies of Francis -Slingsby, who died in 1600, and Mary his wife. Another monument shows -Sir William Slingsby, who accidentally discovered the first spring at -Harrogate. The Slingsbys, who were cavaliers, produced a martyr in the -cause of Charles I. This was the distinguished Sir Henry, who, in 1658, -‘being beheaded by order of the tyrant Cromwell, ... was translated to a -better place.’ So says the inscription on a large slab of black marble -in the floor of the chapel. The last of the male line of the family was -Sir Charles Slingsby, who was most unfortunately drowned by the -upsetting of a ferry-boat in the Ure in February, 1869.</p> - -<p>We can wander through the quaint little streets above the church and -find much to interest us, particularly in the market-place, although -quite a number of the really ancient little houses that had come down to -quite recent years have now passed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a>{130}</span> away. On one side of the -market-place stands a most curious little chemist’s shop, with two -small-paned windows, very low and picturesque, that slightly overhang -the footway. There seems to be small doubt that this is the oldest of -all the long-established chemists’ shops that exist in England. It dates -from the year 1720, when John Beckwith started the business, and the -conservatism of the trade is borne out by the preservation of some -interesting survivals of those early Georgian days. There are -strangely-shaped old shop-bottles, mortars, and strips of leather that -were used for quicksilver in the days when it was worn as a charm -against some forms of disease.</p> - -<p>Just above the manor-house there is still to be seen one of the last of -the thatched houses, at one time common in the town. It is the old -Vicarage, and it still contains oak beams and some good panelling. When -we get beyond the market-place, we come out upon an elevated grassy -space upon the top of a great mass of rock whose perpendicular sides -drop down to a bend of the Nidd. Around us are scattered the ruins of -Knaresborough Castle—poor and of small account if we compare them with -Richmond, although the site is very similar; where before the siege in -1644 there must<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a>{131}</span> have been a most imposing mass of towers and curtain -walls. Of the great keep, only the lowest story is at all complete, for -above the first-floor there are only two sides to the tower, and these -are battered and dishevelled. The walls enclosed about the same area as -Richmond, but they are now so greatly destroyed that it is not easy to -gain a clear idea of their position. There were no less than eleven -towers, of which there now remain fragments of six, part of a gateway, -and behind the old courthouse there are evidences of a secret cell. An -underground sally-port opening into the moat, which was a dry one, is -reached by steps leading from the castle yard. The passage was opened -out in 1890, and in it were discovered a considerable number of stone -balls, probably used for the ‘balistas’ mentioned in one of the castle -records. It is a dismal fact to remember that, despite the perfect -repair of the castle in the reign of Elizabeth, and the comparatively -small amount of destruction caused during the siege conducted by -Lilburne and Fairfax, Knaresborough’s great fortress was reduced to -piles of ruins as the result of an order of the Council of State not -many years after its capture. Subsequently, as in the case of such -splendid structures as Richard I.’s Château Gaillard, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a>{132}</span> broken -remains were cheap building stone for the townsfolk, and seeing that in -those days archæological societies had yet to be instituted, who can -blame the townsfolk?</p> - -<p>Lord Lytton gives a story of the siege that we may recall, seeing that -there is so little to vividly bring to mind the scene during the -strenuous defence of the castle by the plucky townsfolk. ‘A youth,’ we -are told, ‘whose father was in the garrison, was accustomed nightly to -get into the deep, dry moat, climb up the glacis, and put provisions -through a hole where the father stood ready to receive them. He was -perceived at length; the soldiers fired on him.’ The poor lad was made -prisoner, and sentenced to be hanged in quite medieval fashion within -sight of the garrison. There was, however, a certain lady who, with -great difficulty, prevented this barbarous order from being carried out, -and when the castle had capitulated and the soldiers had left the boy -was released.</p> - -<p>The keep is in the Decorated style, and appears to have been built in -the reign of Edward II. Below the ground is a vaulted dungeon, dark and -horrible in its hopeless strength, which is only emphasized by the tiny -air-hole that lets in scarcely a glimmering of light, but reveals a -thickness of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a>{133}</span> 15 feet of masonry that must have made a prisoner’s heart -sick. It is generally understood that Bolingbroke spared Richard II. -such confinement as this, and that when he was a prisoner in the keep he -occupied the large room on the floor above the kitchen. It is now a mere -platform, with the walls running up on two sides only. The kitchen -(sometimes called the guard-room) has a perfectly preserved roof of -heavy groining, supported by two pillars, and it contains a collection -of interesting objects, rather difficult to see, owing to the poor light -that the windows allow. The small local guide-book gives us a thrill by -stating that a very antique-looking chest is ‘said to have been the -property of William the Conqueror.’ We hope it was, but long for some -proofs. The spring mantrap is of no great age, and it was in use not -many years ago, when the owner was in the habit of exhibiting it on -market days with a notice upon it to inform the public that every night -he adjusted its deadly jaws in some part of his orchard. There is much -to interest us among the wind-swept ruins and the views into the wooded -depths of the Nidd, and we would rather stay here and trace back the -history of the castle and town to the days of that Norman Serlo de -Burgh, who is the first mentioned<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a>{134}</span> in its annals, than go down to the -tripper-worn Dropping Well and the Mother Shipton Inn.</p> - -<p>When we have determined to see what these ‘sights’ have to offer, we -find that the inn is a fairly picturesque one, but with scarcely a -quarter of the interest of the old chemist’s shop we saw in the -market-place. The walk along the river bank among a fine growth of -beeches is pleasant enough, and would be enjoyable if it were not for -the fact that it leads to a ‘sight’ which has to be paid for. Under the -overhanging edge of the limestone crag hang a row of eccentric objects -constantly under the dripping water that trickles down the face of the -rock, which is itself formed entirely by the petrifying action of the -spring some yards away from the river. The water being strongly charged -with lime, everything within its reach, including the row of -‘curiosities’ in course of manufacture, are coated over and finally -reduced to limestone, the process taking about two years. When we have -come away from the well we feel we have seen all the sights we are equal -to, and gladly leave St. Robert’s Chapel and the other caves to be seen -at some more convenient season. The story of Eugene Aram and the murder -of Daniel Clark is a page in the history of Knaresborough<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a>{135}</span> that may -perhaps add interest to the town, but it is certainly likely to rob the -place of some of its charm, so without wasting any time on a visit to -the cave where the murdered man’s body was buried, we go out on the road -to Harrogate.</p> - -<p>The distance between the towns is short, and soon after passing Starbeck -we come to Harrogate’s extensive common known as the Stray. We follow -the grassy space, when it takes a sharp turn to the north, and are soon -in the centre of the great watering-place. Among the buildings that rise -up in imposing masses on each side of us we can see no traces of -anything that is not of recent date, and we find nothing at all to -suggest that the place really belongs to Yorkshire.</p> - -<p>Walking or being pulled in bath-chairs along the carefully-made paths -are all sorts and conditions of invalids, and interspersed among them -are numbers of people who, if they have any ailments curable by the -waters, are either in very advanced stages of convalescence or are -extremely expert in hiding any traces of ill-health.</p> - -<p>There is one spot in Harrogate that has a suggestion of the early days -of the town. It is down in the corner where the valley gardens almost -join the extremity of the Stray. There we find the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a>{136}</span> Royal Pump Room that -made its appearance in early Victorian times, and its circular counter -is still crowded every morning by a throng of water-drinkers. We wander -through the hilly streets and gaze at the pretentious hotels, the baths, -the huge Kursaal, the hydropathic establishments, the smart shops, and -the many churches, and then, having seen enough of the buildings, we -find a seat supported by green serpents, from which to watch the -passers-by. A white-haired and withered man, having the stamp of a -military life in his still erect bearing, paces slowly by; then come two -elaborately dressed men of perhaps twenty-five. They wear brown suits -and patent boots, and their bowler hats are pressed down on the backs of -their heads. Then nursemaids with perambulators pass, followed by a lady -in expensive garments, who talks volubly to her two pretty daughters. -When we have tired of the pavements and the people, we bid farewell to -them without much regret, being in a mood for simplicity and solitude, -and go away towards Wharfedale with the pleasant tune that a band was -playing still to remind us for a time of the scenes we have left -behind.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a>{137}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="WHARFEDALE" id="WHARFEDALE"></a>WHARFEDALE</h2> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a>{138}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a>{139}</span> </p> - -<h3><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII<br /><br /> -<small>WHARFEDALE</small></h3> -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Otley</span> is the first place we come to in the long and beautiful valley of -the Wharfe. It is a busy little town where printing machinery is -manufactured and worsted mills appear to thrive. Immediately to the -south rises the steep ridge known as the Chevin. It answers the same -purpose as Leyburn Shawl in giving a great view over the dale; the -elevation of over 900 feet, being much greater than the Shawl, of course -commands a far more extensive panorama, and thus, in clear weather, York -Minster appears on the eastern horizon and the Ingleton Fells on the -west.</p> - -<p>Farnley Hall, on the north side of the Wharfe, is an Elizabethan house -dating from 1581, and it is still further of interest on account of -Turner’s frequent visits, covering a great number of years, and for the -very fine collection of his paintings preserved there. The oak-panelling -and coeval<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a>{140}</span> furniture are particularly good, and among the historical -relics there is a remarkable memento of Marston Moor in the sword that -Cromwell carried during the battle.</p> - -<p>A few miles higher up the dale stands the big ‘hydropathic,’ and the -station of Ben Rhydding. The name sounds very Scottish, and the man who -started the establishment came from beyond the Border. He found that the -site he had selected was marked in the Ordnance maps as a ‘bean -rhydding,’ or fallow land, so he decided to drop the ‘a’ in ‘bean,’ and -in that way get a good Scottish flavour into the name, and now its -origin is being quite forgotten. Only a short distance beyond is the -considerable town of Ilkley, where hotels and vast hydropathic -establishments flourish exceedingly, and villas are constantly adding to -the size of the place, which had a population of only 500 half a century -ago. Ilkley has an old well-house, where the water’s purity is its chief -attraction. The church contains a thirteenth-century effigy of Sir -Andrew de Middleton, and also three pre-Norman crosses without arms. On -the heights to the south of Ilkley is Rumbles Moor, and from the Cow and -Calf rocks there is a very fine view. Ilkley is particularly well -situated for walks up<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a>{141}</span> the dales and over the moors, as a glance at the -map at the end of this volume will show.</p> - -<p>About six miles still further up Wharfedale Bolton Abbey stands by a -bend of the beautiful river. The ruins are most picturesquely placed on -ground slightly raised above the banks of the Wharfe. Of the domestic -buildings practically nothing remains, while the choir of the church, -the central tower, and north transepts are roofless and extremely -beautiful ruins. The nave is roofed in, and is used as a church at the -present time, and it is probable that services have been held in the -building practically without any interruption for 700 years. Hiding the -Early English west end is the lower half of a fine Perpendicular tower, -commenced by Richard Moone, the last Prior. Followers of Ruskin speak of -this as a disfigurement, and I imagine that they also despise the tower -of Fountains Abbey because it belongs to the same period. The taste -displayed in the architecture and decoration of Brantwood does not -encourage me to accept Ruskin’s pronouncements on the latest phase of -Gothic development, and I need only point to the splendid western towers -of Beverley Minster in support of my intense admiration for the dispised -Perpendicular style.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a>{142}</span></p> - -<p>The great east window of the choir has lost its tracery, and the -Decorated windows at the sides are in the same vacant state, with the -exception of the one that appears in the illustration given here. It is -blocked up to half its height, like those on the north side, but the -flamboyant tracery of the head is perfect and very graceful. Lower down -there is some late-Norman interlaced arcading resting on carved corbels.</p> - -<p>There is something singularly attractive in the views of the woods that -overhang the river when we see them framed by the great stone arches and -fluted piers. We can hear the rich notes of a blackbird, and the gentle -rush of the river where it washes the stony beach close at hand, and -there is present that wonderful silence that broods over ruined -monasteries.</p> - -<p>From the abbey we can take our way by various beautiful paths to the -exceedingly rich scenery of Bolton woods. Some of the reaches of the -Wharfe through this deep and heavily-timbered part of its course are -really enchanting, and not even the knowledge that excursion parties -frequently traverse the paths can rob the views of their charm. It is -always possible, by taking a little trouble, to choose occasions for -seeing these<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a>{143}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_016" id="ill_016"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 349px;"> -<a href="images/ill_017_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_017_sml.jpg" width="349" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">BOLTON ABBEY, WHARFEDALE</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">From</span> under the arches of the central tower one is looking out over the -course of the river Wharfe. The abbey was founded in the twelfth century -for monks of the Order of St. Augustine.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">beautiful but very popular places when they are unspoiled by the sights -and sounds of holiday-makers, and in the autumn, when the woods have an -almost undreamed-of brilliance, the walks and drives are generally left -to the birds and the rabbits. At the Strid the river, except in -flood-times, is confined to a deep channel through the rocks, in places -scarcely more than a yard in width. It is one of those spots that -accumulate stories and legends of the individuals who have lost their -lives, or saved them, by endeavouring to leap the narrow channel. That -several people have been drowned here is painfully true, for the -temptation to try the seemingly easy but very risky jump is more than -many can resist.</p> - -<p>Higher up, the river is crossed by the three arches of Barden Bridge, a -fine old structure bearing the inscription: ‘This bridge was repayred at -the charge of the whole West R .... 1676.’ To the south of the bridge -stands the picturesque Tudor house called Barden Tower, which was at one -time a keeper’s lodge in the manorial forest of Wharfedale. It was -enlarged by the tenth Lord Clifford—the ‘Shepherd Lord’ whose strange -life-story is mentioned in the next chapter in connection with -Skipton—but having become<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a>{144}</span> ruinous, it was repaired in 1658 by that -indefatigable restorer of the family castles, the Lady Anne Clifford.</p> - -<p>At this point there is a road across the moors to Pateley Bridge, in -Nidderdale, and if we wish to explore that valley, which is now -partially filled with a lake formed by the damming of the Nidd for -Bradford’s water-supply, we must leave the Wharfe at Barden. If we keep -to the more beautiful dale we go on through the pretty village of -Burnsall to Grassington, where a branch railway has recently made its -appearance from Skipton.</p> - -<p>The dale from this point appears more and more wild, and the fells -become gaunt and bare, with scars often fringing the heights on either -side. We keep to the east side of the river, and soon after having a -good view up Littondale, a beautiful branch valley, we come to -Kettlewell. This tidy and cheerful village stands at the foot of Great -Whernside, one of the twin fells that we saw overlooking the head of -Coverdale when we were at Middleham. Its comfortable little inns make -Kettlewell a very fine centre for rambles in the wild dales that run up -towards the head of Wharfedale.</p> - -<p>Buckden is a small village situated at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a>{145}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_017" id="ill_017"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a href="images/ill_018_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_018_sml.jpg" width="500" height="342" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">HUBBERHOLME CHURCH</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Is</span> one of the quaintest in Yorkshire. It has Norman features, but dates -chiefly from the thirteenth century. The situation on the banks of the -Wharfe in Langstrothdale Chase is most beautiful.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">junction of the road from Aysgarth, and it has the beautiful scenery of -Langstrothdale Chase stretching away to the west. About a mile higher up -the dale we come to the curious old church of Hubberholme standing close -to the river, and forming a most attractive picture in conjunction with -the bridge and the masses of trees just beyond. At Raisgill we leave the -road, which, if continued, would take us over the moors by Dodd Fell, -and then down to Hawes. The track goes across Horse Head Moor, and it is -so very slightly marked on the bent that we only follow it with -difficulty. It is steep in places, for in a short distance it climbs up -to nearly 2,000 feet. The tawny hollows in the fell-sides, and the utter -wildness spread all around, are more impressive when we are right away -from anything that can even be called a path. The sheep just remind us -of the civilization that endeavours to make what use it can of these -desolate places, and when none are in sight we are left alone with the -sky and the heaving brown hills.</p> - -<p>When we reach the highest point before the rapid descent into Littondale -we have another great view, with Pen-y-ghent close at hand and Fountains -Fell more to the south. At the bottom<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a>{146}</span> of the dale flows the Skirfare, -and we follow it past the gray old village of Litton down to Arncliffe, -where there is a nice inn by such a pleasant green that we are tempted -to stay there rather than hurry on to Skipton.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a>{147}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="SKIPTON_MALHAM_AND_GORDALE" id="SKIPTON_MALHAM_AND_GORDALE"></a>SKIPTON, MALHAM AND GORDALE</h2> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a>{148}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a>{149}</span> </p> - -<h3><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII<br /><br /> -<small>SKIPTON, MALHAM AND GORDALE</small></h3> -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">When</span> I think of Skipton I am never quite sure whether to look upon it as -a manufacturing centre or as one of the picturesque market towns of the -dale country. If you arrive by train, you come out of the station upon -such vast cotton-mills, and such a strong flavour of the bustling -activity of the southern parts of Yorkshire, that you might easily -imagine that the capital of Craven has no part in any holiday-making -portion of the county. But if you come by road from Bolton Abbey, you -enter the place at a considerable height, and, passing round the margin -of the wooded Haw Beck, you have a fine view of the castle, as well as -the church and the broad and not unpleasing market-place. Beyond these -appear the chimneys and the smoke of the manufacturing and railway side -of the town, almost entirely separate from the old world and historic -portion on the higher ground. When you<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a>{150}</span> are on the castle ramparts the -factories appear much less formidable—in fact, they seem to shrink into -quite a small area owing to the great bare hills that rise up on all -sides.</p> - -<p>On this sunny morning, as we make our way towards the castle, we find -the attractive side of Skipton entirely unspoiled by any false -impression given by the factories. The smoke which the chimneys make -appears in the form of a thin white mist against the brown moors beyond, -and everything is very clean and very bright after heavy rain. The -gateway of the castle is flanked by two squat towers. They are circular -and battlemented, and between them upon a parapet, which is higher than -the towers themselves, appears the motto of the Cliffords, ‘Desormais’ -(hereafter), in open stone letters. Beyond the gateway stands a great -mass of buildings with two large round towers just in front; to the -right, across a sloping lawn, appears the more modern and inhabited -portion of the castle. The squat round towers gain all our attention, -but as we pass through the doorways into the courtyard beyond, we are -scarcely prepared for the astonishingly beautiful quadrangle that awaits -us. It is small, and the centre is occupied by a great yew-tree, whose -tall, purply-red trunk goes up to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a>{151}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_018" id="ill_018"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 355px;"> -<a href="images/ill_019_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_019_sml.jpg" width="355" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">THE COURTYARD OF SKIPTON CASTLE</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> buildings of this portion of the castle, although in such good -preservation, are not occupied.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the level of the roofs without any branches or even twigs, but at that -height it spreads out freely into a feathery canopy of dark green, -covering almost the whole of the square of sky visible from the -courtyard. The base of the trunk is surrounded by a massive stone seat, -with plain shields on each side. The sunlight that comes through this -green network is very much subdued when it falls upon walls and the -pavement, which becomes strewn over with circular splashes of whiteness. -The masonry of the walls on every side, where not showing the original -red of the sandstone, has been weathered into beautiful emerald tints, -and to a height of two or three feet there is a considerable growth of -moss on the worn mouldings. The general appearance of the courtyard -suggests more that of a manor-house than a castle, the windows and -doorways being purely Tudor. The circular towers and other portions of -the walls belong to the time of Edward II., and there is also a -roundheaded door that cannot be later than the time of Robert de -Romillé, one of the Conqueror’s followers. The rooms that overlook the -shady quadrangle are very much decayed and entirely unoccupied. They -include an old dining-hall of much picturesqueness, kitchens, pantries, -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a>{152}</span> butteries, some of them only lighted by narrow windows on the outer -faces of the wall. There are many large bedrooms and other dark -apartments in the towers. Only a little restoration would be required to -put a great portion of these into habitable condition, for they are -structurally in a good state of repair, as may be seen to some extent -from the picture of the courtyard reproduced here. The destruction -caused during the siege which took place during the Civil War might have -brought Skipton Castle to much the same condition as Knaresborough but -for the wealth and energy of that remarkable woman Lady Anne Clifford, -who was born here in 1589. She was the only surviving child of George, -the third Earl of Cumberland, and grew up under the care of her mother, -Margaret, Countess of Cumberland, of whom Lady Anne used to speak as ‘my -blessed mother.’ Her reverence for the memory of this admirable parent -is also shown in the feeling which prompted her to put up a pillar by -the roadside, between Penrith and Appleby, to commemorate their last -meeting, and, besides this, the Lady Anne left a sum of money to be -given to the poor at that spot on a certain day every year. After her -first marriage with Richard Sackville,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a>{153}</span> Earl of Dorset, Lady Anne -married the profligate Philip, Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery. She was -widowed a second time in 1649, and after that began the period of her -munificence and usefulness. With immense enthusiasm, she undertook the -work of repairing the castles that belonged to her family, Brougham, -Appleby, Barden Tower, and Pendragon being restored as well as Skipton. -We can see in the towers where the later work begins, and the custodian -who shows us through the apartments points out many details which are -invisible without the aid of his candle.</p> - -<p>Besides attending to the decayed castles, the Countess repaired no less -than seven churches, and to her we owe the careful restoration of the -parish church of Skipton. She began the repairs to the sacred building -even before she turned her attention to the wants of the castle. In her -private memorials we read how, ‘In the summer of 1665 ... at her own -charge, she caus’d the steeple of Skipton Church to be built up againe, -which was pull’d down in the time of the late Warrs, and leaded it over, -and then repaired some part of the Church and new glaz’d the Windows, in -every of which Window she put quaries, stained with a yellow colour, -these two letters—viz., A. P.,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a>{154}</span> and under them the year 1655.... -Besides, she raised up a noble Tomb of Black Marble in memory of her -Warlike Father.’ This magnificent altar-tomb still stands within the -Communion rails on the south side of the chancel. It is adorned with -seventeen shields, and Whitaker doubted ‘whether so great an assemblage -of noble bearings can be found on the tomb of any other Englishman.’ -This third Earl was a notable figure in the reign of Elizabeth, and -having for a time been a great favourite with the Queen, he received -many of the posts of honour she loved to bestow. He was a skilful and -daring sailor, helping to defeat the Spanish Armada, and building at his -own expense one of the greatest fighting ships of his time, -Elizabeth—who, like the present German Emperor, never lost an -opportunity of fostering the growth of her navy—being present at the -launching ceremony.</p> - -<p>The memorials of Lady Anne give a description of her appearance in the -manner of that time: ‘The colour of her eyes was black like her -Father’s,’ we are told, ‘with a peak of hair on her forehead, and a -dimple in her chin, like her father. The hair of her head was brown and -very thick, and so long that it reached to the calf of her legs when<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a>{155}</span> -she stood upright; and when she caused these memorials of herself to be -written (she had passed the year 63 of her age), she said <i>the -perfections of her mind were much above those of her body</i>; she had a -strong and copious memory, a sound judgment, and a discerning spirit, -and so much of a strong imagination in her as that at many times even -her dreams and apprehensions beforehand proved true.’ The Countess died -at the great age of eighty-seven at Brougham Castle in Westmoreland, and -was buried in the Church of St. Lawrence at Appleby.</p> - -<p>We cannot leave these old towers of Skipton Castle without going back to -the days of John, the ninth Lord Clifford, that ‘Bloody Clifford’ who -was one of the leaders of the Lancastrians at Wakefield, where his -merciless slaughter earned him the title of ‘the Butcher.’ He died by a -chance arrow the night before the Battle of Towton, so fatal to the -cause of Lancaster, and Lady Clifford and the children took refuge in -her father’s castle at Brough. For greater safety Henry, the heir, was -placed under the care of a shepherd whose wife had nursed the boy’s -mother when a child. In this way the future baron grew up as an entirely -uneducated shepherd lad, spending<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a>{156}</span> his days on the fells in the -primitive fashion of the peasants of the fifteenth century. When he was -about twelve years old Lady Clifford, hearing rumours that the -whereabouts of her children had become known, sent the shepherd and his -wife with the boy into an extremely inaccessible part of Cumberland. He -remained there until his thirty-second year, when the Battle of Bosworth -placed Henry VII. on the throne. Then the shepherd lord was brought to -Londesborough, and when the family estates had been restored, he went -back to Skipton Castle. The strangeness of his new life being irksome to -him, Lord Clifford spent most of his time in Barden Forest at one of the -keeper’s lodges, which he adapted for his own use. There he hunted and -studied astronomy and astrology with the canons of Bolton.</p> - -<p>At Flodden Field he led the men-at-arms from Craven, and showed that by -his life of extreme simplicity he had in no way diminished the -traditional valour of the Cliffords. When he died they buried him at -Bolton Abbey, where many of his ancestors lay, and as his successor died -after the dissolution of the monasteries, the ‘Shepherd Lord’ was the -last to be buried in that secluded spot by the Wharfe.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a>{157}</span></p> - -<p>Skipton has always been a central spot for the exploration of this -southern portion of the dales, and since the Midland Railway has lately -put out an arm to the north, there are lines going in five directions. -The new branch that goes into Wharfedale stops just before it reaches -Grassington, and has an intermediate station with a triple name in -consideration of the fact that it is placed at almost exactly the same -distance from the three villages of Hetton, Rylstone, and Cracoe. -Whether we go by road or rail, we have good views of Flasby and Rylstone -Fells as we pass along the course of Eller Beck to the romantically -situated village made famous by Wordsworth’s ballad of ‘The White Doe of -Rylstone.’ The site of the old manor-house where the Nortons lived may -still be seen in a field to the east of the church. Owing to the part -they took in the Rising of the North in 1569 the Nortons lost all their -property in Yorkshire, and among the humble folk of Rylstone who shared -in the rebellion there was Richard Kitchen, Mr. Norton’s butler, who -lost much more, for he was executed at Ripon. From Hetton we follow a -road to the west, and passing the hamlet of Winterburn, come to Airton, -where there are some interesting old houses, one of them dating<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a>{158}</span> from -the year of the Great Fire of London. Turning to the north, we come to -Kirby Malham, less than two miles off. It is a pretty little village -with green limestone hills rising on all sides; a rushing beck coming -off Kirby Fell takes its way past the church, and there is an old -vicarage as well as some picturesque cottages.</p> - -<p>We find our way to a decayed lych-gate, whose stones are very black and -moss-grown, and then get a close view of the Perpendicular church. The -interior is full of interest, not only on account of the Norman font and -the canopied niches in the pillars of the nave, but also for the old -pews. The Malham people seemingly found great delight in recording their -names on the woodwork of the pews, for carefully carved initials and -dates appear very frequently. All the pews have been cut down to the -accepted height of the present day with the exception of some on the -north side which were occupied by the more important families, and these -still retain their squareness and the high balustrades above the -panelled lower portions. One of the parish registers has the rare -distinction of containing Oliver Cromwell’s signature to a marriage. -There is also the entry of the baptism on November 7, 1619, of John -Lambert, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a>{159}</span> became famous as Major-General in the Roundhead army.</p> - -<p>Just under the moorland heights surrounding Malham Tarn is the other -village of Malham. It is a charming spot, even in the gloom of a wintry -afternoon. The houses look on to a strip of uneven green, cut in two, -lengthways, by the Aire. We go across the clear and sparkling waters by -a rough stone footbridge, and, making our way past a farm, find -ourselves in a few minutes at Gordale Bridge. Here we abandon the -switchback lane, and, climbing a wall, begin to make our way along the -side of the beck. The fells drop down fairly sharply on each side, and -in the failing light there seems no object in following the stream any -further, when quite suddenly the green slope on the right stands out -from a scarred wall of rock beyond, and when we are abreast of the -opening we find ourselves before a vast fissure that leads right into -the heart of the fell. The great split is S-shaped in plan, so that when -we advance into its yawning mouth we are surrounded by limestone cliffs -more than 300 feet high. If one visits Gordale Scar for the first time -alone on a gloomy evening, as I have done, I can promise the most -thrilling sensations to those who have yet to see this astonishing -sight.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a>{160}</span> It almost appeared to me as though I were dreaming, and that I -was Aladin approaching the magician’s palace. I had read some of the -eighteenth-century writers’ descriptions of the place, and imagined that -their vivid accounts of the terror inspired by the overhanging rocks -were mere exaggerations, but now I sympathize with every word. The scars -overhang so much on the east side that there is not much space to get -out of reach of the water that drips from every portion. Great masses of -stone were lying upon the bright strip of turf, and among them I noticed -some that could not have been there long; this made me keep close under -the cliff in justifiable fear of another fall. I stared with -apprehension at one rock that would not only kill, but completely bury, -anyone upon whom it fell, and I thought those old writers had underrated -the horrors of the place. Through a natural arch in the rocks that faced -me came a foaming torrent broken up below into a series of cascades, and -the roar of the waters in the confined space added much to the fear that -was taking possession of me. It was owing to the curious habit that -waterfalls have of seeming to become suddenly louder that I must own to -that sense of fearfulness, for at one moment the noise<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a>{161}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_019" id="ill_019"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> -<a href="images/ill_020_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_020_sml.jpg" width="350" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">GORDALE SCAR</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">This</span> is one of the most astonishing sights in Yorkshire. The gorge is a -result of the Craven Fault—a geological dislocation that has also made -the huge cliffs of Malham Cove. The stream is the Aire. It can be seen -coming through a natural arch high up among the rocks.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">sounded so suddenly different that I was convinced that a considerable -fall of stones had commenced among the crags overhead, and that in a -moment they would crash into the narrow cleft. Common-sense seemed to -urge an immediate retreat, for there was too much water coming down the -falls to allow me to climb out that way, as I could otherwise have done. -The desire to carry away some sort of picture of the fearsome place was, -however, triumphant, and the result is given in this chapter.</p> - -<p>Wordsworth writes of</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘Gordale chasm, terrific as the lair<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Where the young lions couch,’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and he also describes it as one of the grandest objects in nature.</p> - -<p>A further result of the Craven fault that produced Gordale Scar can be -seen at Malham Cove, about a mile away. There the cliff forms a curved -front 285 feet high, facing the open meadows down below. The limestone -is formed in layers of great thickness, dividing the face of the cliff -into three fairly equal sections, the ledges formed at the commencement -of each stratum allowing of the growth of bushes and small trees. A -hard-pressed fox is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a>{162}</span> said to have taken refuge on one of these -precarious ledges, and finding his way stopped in front, he tried to -turn, and in doing so fell and was killed.</p> - -<p>At the base of the perpendicular face of the cliff the Aire flows from a -very slightly arched recess in the rock. It is a really remarkable -stream in making its début without the slightest fuss, for it is large -enough at its very birth to be called a small river. Its modesty is a -great loss to Yorkshire, for if, instead of gathering strength in the -hidden places in the limestone fells, it were to keep to more rational -methods, it would flow to the edge of the Cove, and there precipitate -itself in majestic fashion into a great pool below. There is some reason -for believing that on certain occasions in the past the stream has taken -the more showy course, and if sufficient cement could be introduced into -some of the larger fissures above, a fall might be induced to occur -after every period of heavy rain. All the romance would perhaps -disappear if we knew that the effect was artificial, and therefore we -would no doubt be wiser to remain content with the Cove as it is.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a>{163}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="SETTLE_AND_THE_INGLETON_FELLS" id="SETTLE_AND_THE_INGLETON_FELLS"></a>SETTLE AND THE INGLETON FELLS</h2> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a>{164}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a>{165}</span> </p> - -<h3><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX<br /><br /> -<small>SETTLE AND THE INGLETON FELLS</small></h3> -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> track across the moor from Malham Cove to Settle cannot be -recommended to anyone at night, owing to the extreme difficulty of -keeping to the path without a very great familiarity with every yard of -the way, so that when I merely suggested taking that route one wintry -night the villagers protested vigorously. I therefore took the road that -goes up from Kirby Malham, having borrowed a large hurricane lamp from -the ‘Buck’ Inn at Malham. Long before I reached the open moor I was -enveloped in a mist that would have made the track quite invisible even -where it was most plainly marked, and I blessed the good folk at Malham -who had advised me to take the road rather than run the risks of the -pot-holes that are a feature of the limestone fells. This moor is on the -range of watersheds of Northern England, for it sends streams east and -west that find their way into the Irish Sea and German Ocean.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a>{166}</span></p> - -<p>With the swinging lantern throwing vast shadows of my own figure upon -the mist, and the stony road under my feet, I at length dropped down the -steep descent into Settle, having seen no human being on the road since -I left Kirby Malham. Even Settle was almost as lonely, for I had nearly -reached a building called The Folly, which is near the middle of the -town, before I met the first inhabitant.</p> - -<p>In the morning I discovered that The Folly was the most notable house in -the town, for its long stone front dates from the time of Charles II., -and it is a very fine example of the most elaborate treatment of a house -of that size and period to be found in the Craven district. Settle has a -most distinctive feature in the possession of Castleberg, a steep -limestone hill, densely wooded except at the very top, that rises -sharply just behind the market-place. Before the trees were planted -there seems to have been a sundial on the side of the hill, the -precipitous scar on the top forming the gnomon. No one remembers this -curious feature, although a print showing the numbers fixed upon the -slope was published in 1778. The market-place has lost its curious old -tollbooth, and in its place stands a town hall of good Tudor design. -Departed also is much of the charm of the old Shambles that occupy a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a>{167}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_020" id="ill_020"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a href="images/ill_021_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_021_sml.jpg" width="500" height="328" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="c">SETTLE</p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">This</span> grey old town in Ribblesdale is one of the quaintest in this part -of Yorkshire.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">central position in the square. The lower story, with big arches forming -a sort of piazza in front of the butcher’s and other shops, still -remains in its old state, but the upper portion has been restored in the -fullest sense of that comprehensive term.</p> - -<p>In the steep street that we came down on entering the town there may -still be seen a curious old tower, which seems to have forgotten its -original purpose. Some of the houses have carved stone lintels to their -doorways and seventeenth-century dates, while the stone figure on ‘The -Naked Man’ Inn, although bearing the date 1663, must be very much older, -the year of rebuilding being probably indicated rather than the date of -the figure.</p> - -<p>The Ribble divides Settle from its former parish church at Giggleswick, -and until 1838 the townsfolk had to go over the bridge and along a short -lane to the village which held its church. Settle having been formed -into a separate parish, the parish clerk of the ancient village no -longer has the fees for funerals and marriages. Although able to share -the church, the two places had stocks of their own for a great many -years. At Settle they have been taken from the market square and placed -in the court-house, and at Giggleswick one of the first things we see on -entering the village is one of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a>{168}</span> the stone posts of the stocks standing -by the steps of the market cross. This cross has a very well preserved -head, and it makes the foreground of a very pretty picture as we look at -the battlemented tower of the church through the stone-roofed lichgate -grown over with ivy. The history of this fine old church, dedicated, -like that of Middleham, to St. Alkelda, has been written by Mr. Thomas -Brayshaw, who knows every detail of the old building from the chalice -inscribed ‘✠ <small>THE · COMMVNION · CVPP · BELONGINGE · TO -· THE · PARISHE · OF · IYGGELSWICKE · MADE · IN · ANO · 1585.</small>’ to the inverted Norman capitals now -forming the bases of the pillars. The tower and the arcades date from -about 1400, and the rest of the structure is about 100 years older.</p> - -<p>‘The Black Horse’ Inn has still two niches for small figures of saints, -that proclaim its ecclesiastical connections in early times. It is said -that in the days when it was one of the duties of the churchwardens to -see that no one was drinking there during the hours of service the -inspection used to last up to just the end of the sermon, and that when -the custom was abolished the church officials regretted it exceedingly. -Giggleswick is also the proud possessor of a school founded in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a>{169}</span> 1512. It -has grown from a very small beginning to a considerable establishment, -and it possesses one of the most remarkable school chapels that can be -seen anywhere in the country. It was built between 1897 and 1901, as a -memorial of Queen Victoria’s ‘Diamond Jubilee,’ by Mr. Walter Morrison, -who spared no expense in clothing it with elaborate decoration, executed -by some of the most renowned artists of the present day. The design of -the building is by Mr. T. G. Jackson, R.A.</p> - -<p>The museum is of more than ordinary interest on account of the very fine -collection of prehistoric remains discovered in the Victoria Cave two -miles to the north-east of Settle. Besides bones of such animals as the -cave bear, bison, elephant, and grisly bear, fragments of pottery were -discovered, together with bronze and silver coins dating from the Roman -period.</p> - -<p>An ebbing and flowing well, which has excited the admiration of all the -earlier writers on this part of Yorkshire, can be seen at about the -distance of a mile to the north of Giggleswick. The old prints show this -as a most spectacular natural phenomenon; but whatever it may have been -a century or more ago, it appears at the present day as little more than -an ordinary roadside well,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a>{170}</span> so common in this neighbourhood. In very dry -or very wet weather the well remains inactive, but when there is a -medium supply of water the level of the water is constantly changing. -Giggleswick Tarn is no longer in existence, for it has been drained, and -the site is occupied by pastures. The very fine British canoe, -discovered when the drainage operations were in progress, is now -preserved in the Leeds Museum.</p> - -<p>The road that goes northward from Settle keeps close to the Midland -Railway, which here forces its way right through the Dale Country, under -the very shoulders of Pen-y-ghent, and within sight of the flat top of -Ingleborough. The greater part of this country is composed of limestone, -forming bare hillsides honeycombed with underground waters and -pot-holes, which often lead down into the most astonishing caverns. In -Ingleborough itself there is Gaping Gill Hole, a vast fissure nearly 350 -feet deep. It was only partially explored by M. Martel in 1895. -Ingleborough Cave penetrates into the mountain to a distance of nearly -1,000 feet, and is one of the best of these limestone caverns for its -stalactite formations. Guides take visitors from the village of Clapham -to the inmost recesses and chambers<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a>{171}</span> that branch out of the small -portion discovered in 1837.</p> - -<p>The fells contain so many fissures and curious waterfalls that drop into -abysses of blackness, that it would take an infinite time to adequately -describe even a portion of them. The scenery is wild and gaunt, and is -much the same as the moors at the head of Swaledale, described in an -earlier chapter. In every direction there are opportunities for splendid -mountain walks, and if the tracks are followed the danger of hidden -pot-holes is comparatively small. From the summit of Ingleborough, and, -indeed, from most of the fells that reach 2,000 feet, there are -magnificent views across the brown fells, broken up with horizontal -lines formed by the bare rocky scars. Bowfell, Whernside, Great Shunnor -Fell, High Seat, and a dozen other heights, dominate the lower and -greener country, and to the west, where the mountains drop down towards -Morecambe Bay, one looks all over the country watered by the Lune and -the Kent, the two rivers that flow from the seaward side of these lofty -watersheds.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a>{172}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a>{173}</span> </p> - -<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2> - -<p class="c"><a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I-i">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#K">K</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#Q">Q</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V-i">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#Y">Y</a>.</p> - -<p class="nind"> -<a name="A" id="A"></a>Addlebrough, 8<a href="#page_003">3</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a><br /> - -Agincourt, Battle of, <a href="#page_096">96</a><br /> - -Aire, river, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> - -Airton, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> - -Aislabie, John, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> - -Alan Rufus of Brittany, first Earl of Richmond, <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_029">29</a>, <a href="#page_032">32</a>, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> - -Alnwick, <a href="#page_035">35</a><br /> - -Alwine, Parson of Wencelaw, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Anglo-Saxon population of Yorkshire, <a href="#page_040">40</a><br /> - -Appleby, <a href="#page_152">152</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Castle, <a href="#page_153">153</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Lawrence, <a href="#page_155">155</a></span><br /> - -Aram, Eugene, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> - -Arkengarthdale, <a href="#page_060">60</a><br /> - -Arkle Beck, <a href="#page_063">63</a><br /> - -Armada, Spanish, <a href="#page_154">154</a><br /> - -Arncliffe, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> - -Aske, family of, <a href="#page_043">43</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roger de, <a href="#page_059">59</a></span><br /> - -Askrigg, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_086">86</a>, <a href="#page_089">89-96</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> - -Aysgarth, <a href="#page_091">91</a>, <a href="#page_097">97</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Force, <a href="#page_098">98</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a></span><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="B" id="B"></a>Bain, River, <a href="#page_087">87</a><br /> - -Bainbridge, <a href="#page_084">84</a>, <a href="#page_086">86</a>, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_094">94</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> - -Bangor, Matthew Hutton, Bishop of, <a href="#page_053">53</a><br /> - -Bannockburn, Battle of, <a href="#page_059">59</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> - -Bardale, <a href="#page_084">84</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Beck, <a href="#page_085">85</a></span><br /> - -Barden Bridge, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a>,<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Forest, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tower, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a></span><br /> - -Baugh or Bow Fell, <a href="#page_089">89</a><br /> - -Bayeux tapestry, <a href="#page_040">40</a><br /> - -Beaufort, Margaret, <a href="#page_036">36</a><br /> - -Beckwith, John, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> - -Bedale, <a href="#page_013">13</a>, <a href="#page_032">32</a>, <a href="#page_038">38</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Scolland Lord of, <a href="#page_032">32</a></span><br /> - -Ben Rhydding, <a href="#page_140">140</a><br /> - -Benedictine nuns at Marrick, <a href="#page_059">59</a><br /> - -Beverley, <a href="#page_022">22</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Minster, <a href="#page_141">141</a></span><br /> - -Bishop Dale, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Beck, <a href="#page_101">101</a></span><br /> - -Bolingbroke, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> - -Bolton Abbey, <a href="#page_141">141</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Canons of, <a href="#page_156">156</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Castle, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_104">104</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lords of, <a href="#page_042">42</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hall, <a href="#page_104">104</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Woods, <a href="#page_142">142</a></span><br /> - -Boroughbridge, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> - -Bosworth, Battle of, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> - -Bow or Baugh Fell, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Bradford, water supply of, <a href="#page_144">144</a><br /> - -Brantwood, Coniston, <a href="#page_141">141</a><br /> - -Brayshaw, Thomas, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> - -Bretons, <a href="#page_016">16</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_039">39</a>, <a href="#page_040">40</a><br /> - -Bridlington, <a href="#page_022">22</a><br /> - -British canoe, early, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Brittany, Dukes of, <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_031">31</a>, <a href="#page_035">35</a><br /> - -Brough Castle, <a href="#page_153">153</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hill, <a href="#page_084">84</a></span><br /> - -Brougham Castle, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a><br /> - -Buckden, <a href="#page_144">144</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pike, <a href="#page_102">102</a></span><br /> - -Buonaparte, Napoleon, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Burgh, Serlo de, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> - -Burnsall, <a href="#page_144">144</a><br /> - -Buttertubs Pass, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_071">71-76</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a>{174}</span><br /> - -Buxton, <a href="#page_019">19</a><br /> - -Byron, Lord, <a href="#page_048">48</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="C" id="C"></a>Calver Hill, <a href="#page_061">61</a><br /> - -Cam Fell, <a href="#page_084">84</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gill Beck, <a href="#page_102">102</a></span><br /> - -Canterbury, Matthew Hutton, Archbishop of, <a href="#page_053">53</a><br /> - -Carlow Stone, Semmerwater, <a href="#page_084">84</a><br /> - -Carperby, <a href="#page_097">97</a><br /> - -Castleberg Settle, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> - -Catherine, Queen, widow of Henry V., <a href="#page_036">36</a><br /> - -Catterick, <a href="#page_032">32</a><br /> - -Charles I., <a href="#page_129">129</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">II., time of, <a href="#page_166">166</a></span><br /> - -Château Gaillard, <a href="#page_131">131</a><br /> - -Chemist’s shop, old, at Knaresborough, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> - -Chevin, The, <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> - -Christianity, early, in Yorkshire, <a href="#page_118">118</a><br /> - -Cistercian abbeys, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_119">119</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nuns at Ellerton, <a href="#page_059">59</a></span><br /> - -Civil War, the, of Charles I., <a href="#page_039">39</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_158">158</a><br /> - -Clapham, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Clark, Daniel, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> - -Clarkson, C., <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_024">24</a><br /> - -Cleveland Hills, <a href="#page_082">82</a><br /> - -Clifford, family of, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the ninth Lord, <a href="#page_155">155</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lady, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the tenth Lord, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Lady Anne, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_152">152-155</a></span><br /> - -Clock-making in Wensleydale, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_092">92</a><br /> - -Cogden Moor, <a href="#page_058">58</a><br /> - -Commonwealth, time of, <a href="#page_019">19</a><br /> - -Conan, fifth Earl of Richmond, <a href="#page_029">29</a>, <a href="#page_030">30</a>, <a href="#page_031">31</a>, <a href="#page_032">32</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> - -Conyers, arms of, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_043">43</a><br /> - -Corfe Castle, Dorsetshire, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> - -Corn, lack of, in dales, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_081">81</a><br /> - -Cotterdale, <a href="#page_092">92</a><br /> - -Counterside, <a href="#page_088">88</a><br /> - -Coverdale, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a><br /> - -Cow and Calf Rocks, Rumbles Moor, <a href="#page_140">140</a><br /> - -Cracoe, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> - -Cragdale, <a href="#page_085">85</a><br /> - -Craven Fault, the, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">district, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">men of, <a href="#page_156">156</a></span><br /> - -Cromwell, Oliver, <a href="#page_127">127</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_158">158</a><br /> - -Cumberland, <a href="#page_037">37</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">George, third Earl of, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Margaret, Countess of, <a href="#page_152">152</a></span><br /> - -Cumbrian Hills, <a href="#page_004">4</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="D" id="D"></a>Dalesmen, <a href="#page_074">74</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Dallowgill Moor, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> - -Danish population of Yorkshire, <a href="#page_040">40</a><br /> - -De Burgh, Serlo, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> - -De la Mare, Abbot, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> - -Decorated Gothic Period, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_029">29</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_132">132</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a><br /> - -Diamond Jubilee, the, of Queen Victoria, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -Dissolution of the Monasteries, <a href="#page_025">25</a>, <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a><br /> - -Dodd Fell, <a href="#page_081">81</a>, <a href="#page_082">82</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> - -Domesday Book, <a href="#page_032">32</a><br /> - -Domfront, Normandy, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> - -Dorset, Richard Sackville, Earl of, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a><br /> - -Douglas, Sir James, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> - -Downholme, <a href="#page_056">56</a>, <a href="#page_057">57</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Moor, <a href="#page_055">55</a></span><br /> - -Dropping well, Knaresborough, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> - -Duerley Beck, <a href="#page_081">81</a><br /> - -Durham, <a href="#page_014">14</a>, <a href="#page_038">38</a>, <a href="#page_053">53</a><br /> - -Dykes, Oswald, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="E" id="E"></a>Early English, period of Gothic, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a><br /> - -Easby Abbey, <a href="#page_040">40-43</a>, <a href="#page_051">51</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Ebbing and flowing well at Giggleswick, 169<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a>{175}</span><br /> - -Eden, River, <a href="#page_066">66</a><br /> - -Edward II., <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reign of, <a href="#page_132">132</a>, <a href="#page_151">151</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">III., reign of, <a href="#page_035">35</a>, <a href="#page_037">37</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">IV., <a href="#page_109">109</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Prince of Wales, only son of Richard III., <a href="#page_110">110</a></span><br /> - -Edwin, Earl, <a href="#page_030">30</a>, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> - -Eller Beck (Skipton), <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> - -Ellerton, <a href="#page_059">59</a><br /> - -Elizabeth, Queen, <a href="#page_053">53</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reign of, <a href="#page_131">131</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a></span><br /> - -Eugene Aram, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="F" id="F"></a>Fairfax, Thomas, Lord, <a href="#page_131">131</a><br /> - -Falaise, Normandy, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> - -Fantosme, Jordan, chronicle of, <a href="#page_034">34</a><br /> - -Farmhouse, the, of the North Riding, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> - -Farnley Hall, <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> - -‘Felon Sow of Rokeby, The,’ <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_027">27</a>, <a href="#page_028">28</a><br /> - -Fences, stone, <a href="#page_006">6</a><br /> - -Fitz-Hugh, arms of, <a href="#page_023">23</a><br /> - -Fitz-Randolph, Robert, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -Fitz-Ranulph, Radulph, <a href="#page_028">28</a><br /> - -Flasby Fell, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> - -Flodden Field, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> - -Fors Abbey (Jervaulx), <a href="#page_091">91</a><br /> - -Fountains Abbey, <a href="#page_041">41</a>, <a href="#page_119">119</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fell, <a href="#page_145">145</a></span><br /> - -Fox, George, <a href="#page_088">88</a><br /> - -Franciscans at Richmond, <a href="#page_025">25</a>, <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_028">28</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="G" id="G"></a>Gaping Gill Hole, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Gaunt, John of, <a href="#page_036">36</a><br /> - -Gayle, <a href="#page_081">81</a><br /> - -Gent, Thomas, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> - -<i>Gentleman’s Magazine</i>, The, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> - -Geology, <a href="#page_045">45</a>, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_077">77</a><br /> - -German Emperor, William II.,<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">III, <a href="#page_144">144</a></span><br /> - -German Ocean, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> - -Giggleswick, <a href="#page_167">167</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a>, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">School, <a href="#page_168">168</a>, <a href="#page_169">169</a></span><br /> - -Giggleswick Tarn, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -Gill Beck (Swaledale), <a href="#page_047">47</a><br /> - -Gilling, <a href="#page_033">33</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">East, wapentake of, <a href="#page_033">33</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">West, wapentake of, <a href="#page_033">33</a></span><br /> - -Gillingshire, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> - -Glacial Epochs, <a href="#page_005">5</a>, <a href="#page_077">77</a><br /> - -Glanville or Glanvile, Randulf de, <a href="#page_035">35</a><br /> - -Goodricke, Sir John, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> - -Gordale Bridge, <a href="#page_159">159</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Scar, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_161">161</a></span><br /> - -Gormire (Thirsk), <a href="#page_085">85</a><br /> - -Grandfather-clocks, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_092">92</a><br /> - -Grassington, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> - -Gray, Archbishop Walter, <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> - -Great Central Railway, <a href="#page_008">8</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Northern Railway, <a href="#page_008">8</a></span><br /> - -Great Shunnor Fell, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_079">79</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Great Whernside, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a><br /> - -Greyfriars, Richmond, <a href="#page_025">25</a>, <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_028">28</a><br /> - -Griffin, Gilbert, <a href="#page_028">28</a><br /> - -Grinton, <a href="#page_060">60</a><br /> - -Guilds, trade, at Richmond, <a href="#page_037">37</a>, <a href="#page_038">38</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="H" id="H"></a>Hardraw Scar (or Force), <a href="#page_005">5</a>, <a href="#page_077">77</a>, <a href="#page_078">78</a>, <a href="#page_079">79</a>, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_098">98</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a><br /> - -Harkerside Moor, <a href="#page_058">58</a><br /> - -Harrogate, <a href="#page_019">19</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> - -Haw Beck, Skipton, <a href="#page_149">149</a><br /> - -Hawes, <a href="#page_005">5</a>, <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_075">75</a>, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_077">77</a>, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_092">92</a>, <a href="#page_093">93</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> - -Hawes Junction, <a href="#page_063">63</a><br /> - -Heather on the fells, <a href="#page_005">5</a><br /> - -Helvellyn, <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> - -Henry II., <a href="#page_034">34</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">III., reign of, <a href="#page_043">43</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">V., Catherine widow of, <a href="#page_036">36</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">VI., play of, <a href="#page_109">109</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">VII., <a href="#page_036">36</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">reign of, <a href="#page_026">26</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">VIII., reign of, <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_042">42</a></span><br /> - -Hetton, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> - -Hexham, <a href="#page_118">118</a><br /> - -High Seat, <a href="#page_066">66</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Hobs and wraithes, 74<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a>{176}</span><br /> - -Holy Rood (September 27), custom<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">commencing at, <a href="#page_088">88</a></span><br /> - -Hornblower, the, of Ripon, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> - -Horse Head Moor, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> - -Houses (farms) of the North Riding, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> - -Hubberholme, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> - -Hudswell, <a href="#page_055">55</a><br /> - -Hutchinson, John, <a href="#page_064">64</a><br /> - -Hutton, Matthew, Archbishop of York (1594), <a href="#page_052">52</a><br /> - -Hutton, Matthew, Archbishop of Canterbury (1757), <a href="#page_053">53</a><br /> - -Hutton, Captain Matthew, <a href="#page_053">53</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="I-i" id="I-i"></a>Ice action, <a href="#page_005">5</a><br /> - -Ilkley, <a href="#page_140">140</a><br /> - -Ingleborough, <a href="#page_003">3</a>, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cave, <a href="#page_170">170</a></span><br /> - -Ingleton Fells, the, <a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Irish Sea, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="J" id="J"></a>Jackson family of Counterside, <a href="#page_088">88</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">T. G., R.A., <a href="#page_169">169</a></span><br /> - -Jervaulx Abbey, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> - -John of Gaunt, <a href="#page_036">36</a><br /> - -Jyggelswicke. See Giggleswick<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="K" id="K"></a>Keld, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_066">66</a><br /> - -Kent River, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Kettlewell, <a href="#page_144">144</a><br /> - -Kirby Fell, <a href="#page_158">158</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Malham, <a href="#page_158">158</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a></span><br /> - -Kisdon Force, <a href="#page_065">65</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hill, <a href="#page_065">65</a></span><br /> - -Kitchen, Richard, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> - -Kitchener, Lord, <a href="#page_065">65</a><br /> - -Knappey, <a href="#page_096">96</a>. See Nappa Hall<br /> - -Knaresborough, <a href="#page_125">125-135</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Castle, <a href="#page_130">130-133</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Manor House, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a></span><br /> - -Knight Templars, chapel of, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Knitting in Wensleydale, <a href="#page_091">91</a>, <a href="#page_092">92</a><br /> - -Knollys, Sir Francis (1568), <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_104">104</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="L" id="L"></a>Lady’s Pillar, <a href="#page_066">66</a><br /> - -Lake District, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_063">63</a>, <a href="#page_066">66</a>, <a href="#page_082">82</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> - -Lambert, Major-General John, <a href="#page_158">158</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a><br /> - -Lancashire, <a href="#page_036">36</a><br /> - -Lancastrians, <a href="#page_155">155</a><br /> - -Langside, Battle of, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> - -Langstrothdale, <a href="#page_082">82</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> - -‘Lass of Richmond Hill, The,’ ballad of, <a href="#page_036">36</a><br /> - -Lead mines, <a href="#page_060">60</a><br /> - -Leeds Museum, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Leland, John, <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_022">22</a>, <a href="#page_024">24</a>, <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_033">33</a>, <a href="#page_059">59</a>, <a href="#page_081">81</a>, <a href="#page_097">97</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a><br /> - -Leyburn, <a href="#page_013">13</a>, <a href="#page_055">55</a>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_092">92</a>, <a href="#page_104">104</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> - -Leyburn Shawl, <a href="#page_104">104</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_111">111</a><br /> - -Lilburne, of Cromwellian army, <a href="#page_131">131</a><br /> - -Ling, growth of, on the fells, <a href="#page_082">82</a><br /> - -Litton, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> - -Littondale, <a href="#page_005">5</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> - -Londesborough, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> - -Lune River, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Lytton, Lord, <a href="#page_132">132</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="M" id="M"></a>Malham, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cove, <a href="#page_161">161</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tarn, <a href="#page_159">159</a></span><br /> - -Mare, Abbot de la, brass of, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> - -Marrick, <a href="#page_059">59</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Priory, <a href="#page_059">59</a></span><br /> - -Marske, <a href="#page_051">51</a>, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_055">55</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Beck, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_054">54</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hall, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_053">53</a>, <a href="#page_054">54</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">obelisk at, <a href="#page_053">53</a>, <a href="#page_054">54</a></span><br /> - -Marston Moor, Battle of, <a href="#page_140">140</a><br /> - -Martel, M., <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Mary Queen of Scots, <a href="#page_097">97</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_104">104</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Masham, <a href="#page_038">38</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> - -Mashamshire Volunteers, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Mercia, <a href="#page_034">34</a><br /> - -Metcalfe family, <a href="#page_091">91</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_097">97</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">James, <a href="#page_096">96</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Thomas, <a href="#page_096">96</a></span><br /> - -Mickleden, 63<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a>{177}</span><br /> - -Middleham, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_038">38</a>, <a href="#page_092">92</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> - -Middleton, Friar of Richmond, <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_027">27</a><br /> - -Middleton, Sir Andrew de, <a href="#page_140">140</a><br /> - -Midland Railway, <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_066">66</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Mill Gill Force, <a href="#page_095">95</a>, <a href="#page_098">98</a><br /> - -Monasteries, Dissolution of, <a href="#page_025">25</a>, <a href="#page_026">26</a><br /> - -Moone, Richard, Prior of Bolton, <a href="#page_141">141</a><br /> - -Morecambe Bay, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Morris, Joseph E., <a href="#page_064">64</a><br /> - -Morrison, Walter, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -Mowbray, Vale of, <a href="#page_030">30</a>, <a href="#page_031">31</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Muker, <a href="#page_061">61</a>, <a href="#page_063">63</a>, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_071">71</a>, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_092">92</a><br /> - -Murray’s ‘Guide to Yorkshire,’ <a href="#page_092">92</a>, <a href="#page_093">93</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="N" id="N"></a>Napoleon’s threatened invasion of England, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Nappa Hall, <a href="#page_086">86</a>, <a href="#page_091">91</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_097">97</a><br /> - -Navy, British, <a href="#page_154">154</a><br /> - -Neville, Anne, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">arms of, <a href="#page_023">23</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">family of, <a href="#page_109">109</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ralph, first Earl of Westmoreland, <a href="#page_036">36</a></span><br /> - -Newby Hall, Ripon, <a href="#page_097">97</a><br /> - -Nidd River, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a><br /> - -Nidderdale, <a href="#page_144">144</a><br /> - -Norman Conquest, <a href="#page_014">14</a>, <a href="#page_032">32</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">period and architecture, <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_019">19</a>, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_029">29</a>, <a href="#page_031">31</a>, <a href="#page_032">32</a>, <a href="#page_033">33</a>, <a href="#page_042">42</a>, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_091">91</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_158">158</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a></span><br /> - -Northallerton, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> - -North-Eastern Railway, <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_014">14</a><br /> - -North Sea, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> - -Norton family of Rylstone, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="O" id="O"></a>Obelisk at Marske, <a href="#page_053">53</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Richmond, <a href="#page_023">23</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ripon, <a href="#page_116">116</a></span><br /> - -Old Cam Road, <a href="#page_084">84</a><br /> - -Otley, <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="P" id="P"></a>Parliament, the English, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Pateley Bridge, <a href="#page_144">144</a><br /> - -Pembroke and Montgomery, Lady Anne, Countess of, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_152">152-155</a><br /> - -Pembroke and Montgomery, Philip, Earl of, <a href="#page_153">153</a><br /> - -Pendragon Castle, <a href="#page_153">153</a><br /> - -Penhill Beacon, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Pennine Range, <a href="#page_003">3</a>, <a href="#page_004">4</a><br /> - -Penrith, <a href="#page_152">152</a><br /> - -Pen-y-ghent, <a href="#page_003">3</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -Perpendicular Period, <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_025">25</a>, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_043">43</a>, <a href="#page_091">91</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a>, <a href="#page_158">158</a><br /> - -Pickering, <a href="#page_043">43</a><br /> - -Pisgah, Mount, <a href="#page_048">48</a><br /> - -Plagues at Richmond, <a href="#page_037">37</a><br /> - -Potholes, <a href="#page_067">67</a>, <a href="#page_071">71</a>, <a href="#page_074">74</a>, <a href="#page_075">75</a><br /> - -Pratt, clock-maker at Askrigg, <a href="#page_065">65</a><br /> - -Prehistoric remains, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -Purbeck, Corfe Castle in Isle of, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="Q" id="Q"></a>Quakers at Counterside, <a href="#page_088">88</a><br /> - -Queen’s Gap, The, at Leyburn Shawl, <a href="#page_104">104</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="R" id="R"></a>Railways in the Dale Country, <a href="#page_008">8</a><br /> - -Rainfall in the dales, <a href="#page_063">63</a><br /> - -Raisgill, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> - -Ralph of Rokeby, <a href="#page_026">26</a><br /> - -Randolph, Robert Fitz-, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -Ranulph, Radulph Fitz-, <a href="#page_028">28</a><br /> - -Raydale, <a href="#page_085">85</a><br /> - -Redmire, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> - -Reeth, <a href="#page_051">51</a>, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_053">53</a>, <a href="#page_060">60</a>, <a href="#page_061">61</a><br /> - -Ribald, brother of a Norman Earl of Richmond, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -Ribble, River, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -Ribblesdale, <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_167">167-171</a><br /> - -Richard I., <a href="#page_131">131</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">II., <a href="#page_133">133</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 3em;">reign of, <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_036">36</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">III., only son of, <a href="#page_110">110</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 3em;">arms of, <a href="#page_110">110</a></span><br /> - -Richmond, <a href="#page_013">13-42</a>, <a href="#page_049">49</a>, <a href="#page_055">55</a>, <a href="#page_061">61</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Barley Cross, the, 24<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a>{178}</span></span><br /> - -Richmond Castle, <a href="#page_015">15</a>, <a href="#page_029">29-37</a>, <a href="#page_039">39</a>, <a href="#page_042">42</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a>, <a href="#page_131">131</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">walk, <a href="#page_019">19</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">curfew-bell, <a href="#page_018">18</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Earls of, <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_029">29</a>, <a href="#page_031">31</a>, <a href="#page_032">32</a>, <a href="#page_035">35</a>, <a href="#page_036">36</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">gates and walls, <a href="#page_021">21</a>, <a href="#page_022">22</a>, <a href="#page_024">24</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Holy Trinity Church, <a href="#page_017">17</a>, <a href="#page_033">33</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">King’s Head Hotel, <a href="#page_017">17</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">market-place, <a href="#page_016">16</a>, <a href="#page_019">19</a>, <a href="#page_021">21</a>, <a href="#page_022">22</a>, <a href="#page_030">30</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">may-pole, <a href="#page_024">24</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mayor and Corporation of, <a href="#page_015">15</a>, <a href="#page_024">24</a>, <a href="#page_050">50</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">obelisk, <a href="#page_016">16</a>, <a href="#page_023">23</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">old cross, the, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_024">24</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pillory, <a href="#page_024">24</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">plagues at, <a href="#page_037">37</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rural Deanery of, <a href="#page_038">38</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Trade Guilds of, <a href="#page_037">37</a>, <a href="#page_038">38</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">whipping-post, <a href="#page_024">24</a></span><br /> - -‘Richmondshire, History of,’ by H. Speight, <a href="#page_060">60</a>, <a href="#page_097">97</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">men of, <a href="#page_035">35</a></span><br /> - -Rievaulx Abbey, <a href="#page_041">41</a><br /> - -Ripley, Hugh, of Ripon, <a href="#page_118">118</a><br /> - -Ripon, <a href="#page_041">41</a>, <a href="#page_097">97</a>, <a href="#page_115">115-118</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lord (1906), <a href="#page_119">119</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Minster, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a></span><br /> - -Rising of the North, the, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> - -Road-making, <a href="#page_094">94</a><br /> - -Roald, Constable of Richmond Castle, <a href="#page_042">42</a><br /> - -Robin Hood’s Tower, Richmond Castle, <a href="#page_031">31</a><br /> - -Robinson, Richard, of Counterside, <a href="#page_088">88</a><br /> - -Rogan’s Seat, <a href="#page_066">66</a><br /> - -Rokeby, Ralph of, <a href="#page_026">26</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">‘The Felon Sow of,’ <a href="#page_026">26</a></span><br /> - -Roman type of crypt at Ripon, <a href="#page_118">118</a><br /> - -Romans at Bainbridge, <a href="#page_084">84</a>, <a href="#page_087">87</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Catterick, <a href="#page_032">32</a></span><br /> - -Romans at Richmond, <a href="#page_040">40</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">near Settle, <a href="#page_169">169</a></span><br /> - -Romillé, Robert de, <a href="#page_151">151</a><br /> - -Roseberry Topping, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Rumbles Moor, <a href="#page_140">140</a><br /> - -Ruskin, John, <a href="#page_141">141</a><br /> - -Rylstone, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ballad of the White Doe of, <a href="#page_157">157</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fell, <a href="#page_157">157</a></span><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="S" id="S"></a>Sackville, Richard, Earl of Dorset, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a><br /> - -Sanderson, Prior Robert, <a href="#page_025">25</a><br /> - -Saxon remains, lack of, at Richmond, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">or pre-Norman crosses, <a href="#page_140">140</a></span><br /> - -Scarborough, <a href="#page_039">39</a><br /> - -Scarth Nick, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Scolland, Lord of Bedale, <a href="#page_032">32</a><br /> - -Scolland’s Hall, Richmond Castle, <a href="#page_032">32</a><br /> - -Scots, defeat of, at Alnwick, <a href="#page_035">35</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">raids of the, <a href="#page_036">36</a>, <a href="#page_037">37</a>, <a href="#page_059">59</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a></span><br /> - -Scott, Sir Walter, ballad of ‘The Felon Sow of Rokeby,’ <a href="#page_026">26</a><br /> - -Scrope, arms of, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">family of, <a href="#page_042">42</a>, <a href="#page_043">43</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Richard, Lord of Bolton, <a href="#page_105">105</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sir Henry le, <a href="#page_042">42</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sir William le, <a href="#page_042">42</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ninth Lord, <a href="#page_103">103</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tombs, <a href="#page_042">42</a></span><br /> - -Sedbergh, <a href="#page_062">62</a><br /> - -Semmerwater, <a href="#page_084">84-88</a><br /> - -Settle, <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_165">165-167</a>, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -Shakespeare’s play of ‘Henry VI.,’ <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -Shambles at Settle, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> - -Sharp, Roger, <a href="#page_038">38</a><br /> - -Sheep, Wensleydale, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> - -Shelley, Percy B., <a href="#page_090">90</a><br /> - -Shene, Surrey, <a href="#page_036">36</a><br /> - -Shrovetide, 88<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a>{179}</span><br /> - -Simon de Wenselawe, Sir, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> - -Skell, River, <a href="#page_119">119</a><br /> - -Skipton, <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_014">14</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_149">149-157</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Castle, <a href="#page_150">150-156</a></span><br /> - -Skirfare, River, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> - -Slinger, a woman of Cotterdale, <a href="#page_092">92</a><br /> - -Slingsby, family of, <a href="#page_129">129</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Francis, <a href="#page_129">129</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mary, <a href="#page_129">129</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sir Charles, <a href="#page_129">129</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sir Henry, <a href="#page_129">129</a></span><br /> - -Snowstorms in the dales, <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> - -South Africa, <a href="#page_007">7</a><br /> - -Spanish Armada, <a href="#page_154">154</a><br /> - -Speight, Harry, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_097">97</a><br /> - -St. Agatha’s Abbey, Easby, <a href="#page_040">40</a><br /> - -St. Alban’s Abbey, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> - -St. Alkelda, churches dedicated to, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> - -St. Anne, chantry to, at Askrigg, <a href="#page_091">91</a><br /> - -St. Martin’s Priory at Richmond, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_042">42</a><br /> - -St. Mary’s Abbey at York, <a href="#page_028">28</a><br /> - -St. Nicholas, Chapel of, in Richmond Castle, <a href="#page_031">31</a><br /> - -St. Pancras Station, London, <a href="#page_009">9</a><br /> - -St. Robert’s Chapel, Knaresborough, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> - -St. Wilfrid’s Needle, Ripon, <a href="#page_118">118</a><br /> - -Stag’s Fell, <a href="#page_065">65</a><br /> - -Stake Fell, <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> - -Starbeck, <a href="#page_135">135</a><br /> - -Starbottom, <a href="#page_102">102</a><br /> - -Storms in the dales, <a href="#page_062">62</a>, <a href="#page_063">63</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> - -Stray, the, at Harrogate, <a href="#page_135">135</a><br /> - -Strid, the, <a href="#page_143">143</a><br /> - -Studley Royal, <a href="#page_119">119</a><br /> - -Swale, River, <a href="#page_020">20</a>, <a href="#page_021">21</a>, <a href="#page_041">41</a>, <a href="#page_048">48-67</a><br /> - -Swaledale, <a href="#page_008">8</a>, <a href="#page_013">13</a>, <a href="#page_047">47-64</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> - -Swine Cross, Middleham, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="T" id="T"></a>Tees, high force on the, <a href="#page_099">99</a><br /> - -Teesdale, <a href="#page_064">64</a><br /> - -Templars, Knight, chapel of, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Thames River, <a href="#page_036">36</a><br /> - -Thirsk, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">William, last Abbot of Fountains Abbey, <a href="#page_121">121</a></span><br /> - -Thoralby, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> - -Thornton, William (Askrigg), <a href="#page_090">90</a><br /> - -Tibetot, arms of, <a href="#page_023">23</a><br /> - -Tintern Abbey, <a href="#page_041">41</a><br /> - -Tor Mere Top, <a href="#page_102">102</a><br /> - -Towton, Battle of, <a href="#page_155">155</a><br /> - -Tudor, Edmund, <a href="#page_036">36</a><br /> - -Turner, J. W. M., <a href="#page_059">59</a>, <a href="#page_084">84</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="U" id="U"></a>Ure, River and Valley of, <a href="#page_043">43</a>, <a href="#page_071">71</a>, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_097">97-99</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, and see Wensleydale<br /> - -Uredale, <a href="#page_081">81</a>, and see Wensleydale<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="V-i" id="V-i"></a>Vale of Mowbray, <a href="#page_031">31</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of York, <a href="#page_006">6</a></span><br /> - -Victoria Cave, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Queen, <a href="#page_169">169</a></span><br /> - -Volunteers, Wensleydale, etc., <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="W" id="W"></a>Wakefield, Battle of, <a href="#page_155">155</a><br /> - -Wakemen, the, of Ripon, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a><br /> - -Walburn Hall, <a href="#page_057">57</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wymer de, <a href="#page_057">57</a></span><br /> - -Waldendale, <a href="#page_102">102</a><br /> - -Walker, George, <a href="#page_091">91</a><br /> - -Warwick, arms of, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the King-maker, <a href="#page_109">109</a></span><br /> - -Watershed of England, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Watling Street, <a href="#page_027">27</a><br /> - -Wayne, Christopher, <a href="#page_023">23</a><br /> - -Wencelaw. See Wensley<br /> - -Wenselawe. See Wensley<br /> - -Wensley, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> - -Wensleydale, <a href="#page_005">5</a>, <a href="#page_043">43</a>, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_071">71-111</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Forest of, <a href="#page_087">87</a></span><br /> - -West Burton, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> - -Westmoreland, <a href="#page_037">37</a>, <a href="#page_063">63</a>, <a href="#page_066">66</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ralph Neville, first Earl of, <a href="#page_036">36</a></span><br /> - -Wether Fell, <a href="#page_082">82-84</a>, 89<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a>{180}</span><br /> - -Whaley, Mr., of Askrigg, <a href="#page_091">91</a><br /> - -Wharfe, River, <a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> - -Wharfedale, <a href="#page_005">5</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a>, <a href="#page_139">139-146</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Forest of, <a href="#page_143">143</a></span><br /> - -Whernside, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Great and Little, <a href="#page_111">111</a></span><br /> - -Whitaker, Dr., Historian of Craven and Richmondshire, <a href="#page_024">24</a>, <a href="#page_025">25</a>, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a><br /> - -Whitcliffe Scar, <a href="#page_047">47-49</a>, <a href="#page_053">53</a><br /> - -Whitfield Force, <a href="#page_096">96</a><br /> - -Widdale Fell, <a href="#page_089">89</a><br /> - -Wilfrid, <a href="#page_118">118</a><br /> - -Willance, Robert, <a href="#page_049">49</a>, <a href="#page_050">50</a><br /> - -Willance’s Leap, <a href="#page_049">49</a>, <a href="#page_054">54</a><br /> - -William the Conqueror, <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_033">33</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a>, <a href="#page_151">151</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Lion of Scotland, <a href="#page_034">34</a></span><br /> - -Winterburn, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> - -Wodenslag. See Wensley<br /> - -Woodhall Park, <a href="#page_097">97</a><br /> - -Wordsworth, William, <a href="#page_157">157</a>, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> - -Wraithes and hobs, <a href="#page_074">74</a><br /> - -Wyatt, the architect, <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> - -Wyman, dapifer to the Earl of Richmond, <a href="#page_028">28</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="Y" id="Y"></a>York, <a href="#page_022">22</a>, <a href="#page_028">28</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Archbishopric of, <a href="#page_053">53</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Minster, <a href="#page_139">139</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Vale of, <a href="#page_006">6</a></span><br /> -</p> -<p class="c">THE END</p> - -<p class="cov">BILLING AND SONS, LIMITED, PRINTERS, GUILDFORD</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 331px;"> -<a href="images/ill_022_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_022_sml.jpg" style="border:none;" height="485" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/back.jpg" style="border:none;" width="340" height="500" alt="" title="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Yorkshire Dales and Fells, by Gordon Home - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YORKSHIRE DALES AND FELLS *** - -***** This file should be named 55067-h.htm or 55067-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/0/6/55067/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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